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1
.^- •*•
VOYAGES AND TRAVELS,
MANY OF WHICH ARE NOW FIRST TRANSLATED INTO ENGLISH.
A GENERAL COLLECTION
OF THE
77^
BEST AND MOST INTERESTING
IN ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD;
♦•.
•\,',.:,*;m.. , *■■■!■■
DIGESTED ON A NEW PLAN.
-P:
BY JOHN PINKEHTON, *f ■ , ' ^ J, l^. i '
AUTHOR or MODERN GEOGRAPHY, ScC. > ^>
.S>'
ILLUSTRATED AND ADORNED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAJ
VOLUME FIFTH.
'h-^^^a-;'
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:;-¥
^PHILADBLPHlAt
PUBLISHED BY KIMBER AND CONRAD, N6. 93, MARKET STREET, .
William Falconer, New York ; Samuel JeiTeris, Baltimore ; James Kennedy, sen. Alexandria ; Fitzwhylsonn
y and Potter, Richmond ; John Hoff, Charleston, South Carolina ; Henry Cushing, Providence, R. I. ; John
West and Co. Boston; Cushing and Appleton, Salem; Edward Little and Co. Newburyport; Charles ,
Tappan, Portsmouth.
^ , MERRITT, PRINTER, WATKIN*S ALLEY.
1812.
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?4AY 17 1918
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CONTENTS
OF THE
,s "-r
FIFTH VOLUME
/I ■■*.'* '■' :',•
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SPALLANZANVS Travels in Italy, - ; "
iJofomi^t/'* ^cco«nf qf the Earthquakes m Calabrta tn 1783,
Bourgoanne's Travels in Spain, - ' - , -
Coxe's Travels in SwUzerland,
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298
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A
LIST OF PLATES IN VOLUME V.
. I. ETNA, from Catania, - . .... . . gj
• 2. Summit of Etna, »y
3. Etna, from the East ; .... gg
' 4. Spanish Inn, oqo
5. Castle of Segovia, 322
C. Fandango, g^j
7. The Devil's Bridge, •----.--. 745
• 8. Source of the Rhone, 75Q
9. Lake of Kandel Steig, . . 754
10. Suussure's Ascent of Mont Blanc, 788
11. The Alps, as seen from Berne, - - 373
12. Mount Rosa, - - ? . : *,«,„.,
13. Source of the Arveron. 5 ' . ' ^ ^^t^ . ' ^t the End of the Volume-
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V^^'^^^y GENERAL COLLECTION
OF
■>-i.
VOY4J31ES AND TRAVELS.
TRAVELS
IN THE
TWO SICILIES, AND SOME PARTS OF THE APENNINES
TRAMLATKD FKOM THE ORlOINAI. ITAtlAN OF TIIE
ABBE LAZZARO SPALLANZ.4NI,
J" ■' ■.
Profcssor<Royal of Natunl HUfbiy in ihf CnWersily of Pavia, and Superintciulant of the Imperiul
Museum in that city; FsHow or tl^e ]Rlb]r«l Society of London ; and Member of the Academics of
Prussia, Stockholm, (^jro^gen, Turin, Padua, 8(c. See*
THE name
a sufficient recom..
the present, on wh
hour and attention
philosopher, on w
tains, in part, a su ,
In the translations
it is presumed, hasl
may be allowed) iil
translator thought h
give his idea with £
will frequently renc
in every work, esp<'
sionally be found) -]
that the reader majl
original. a
i^VERTISEMENT BY THE TRANSLATOR.
>lished reputation of the abbe Spallanzani must certainly be
of anf work he gives to the public, especially of one like
irs to have bestowed a more than ordinary degree of la-
e^ of objects, highly interesting to the naturalist and the
l^naj; |>9 teen in die following mtroduction, which con-
iiifti|r have been principally studied. The reader,
iiliiw transcript of the original (if the expression
:^ Where die meaning admitted of no doubt, the
jj^depart from the phraseology of his author, to
» m licence which the different idioms of language
"where any., shadow of ambiguity appeared (and
ence, such ambiguities of expression will occa*
adhered to]: the literal expression of his text.
Is judginept in the same manner as from the
VOL. V.
• T he parts
:eresting to the general reader are omitted.
B
9PALLANZA.Nr8 TRAVILt
As the abbe has continually employed the terms of w!ut is called the new nomen-
ckitureof chemistry, it has been thougfit proper, for the benefit of readers not familiar
with this science, to add, in n parenthesis, the more uscal names of clu-mical substan.
ces; as /or instance, to subjoin to muriate of alumine the common term of alum; and
to muriate of soda tliat of sea-salt. The abbe has likewise used the term caloric, on all
occasions, instead of heat or warmth. In this the translator has ni>t judged it advisable
to follow him, except when he lias employed it in the proper cheifical sense of the mat*
ter of heat.
The plates are faithful copies of those in the original, but more larefully and elegantly
finished. Some may, perhaps, object to the disproportionate siz<|of the human figures
represented in plates II, III, and V. This objection the author I
end of vol. IV, apologizes, bv remarking, that " the painter <_,
permitted this licence, as, had he attempted to observe the rule
ng^ires would Iiave been scarcely discernible."* \ |
The work in the original is dedicated to count Wilzeck, impenal plenipotentiary of
the general administration of Austrian Lombardy ; but as this dedibtion only contains
the eulogiums of which such compositions usually consist, it has be^i omitted.
^8 foreseen, and, at the
iioeived he might be
of proportion, these
INTRODUCTION.
ii» •» .tC
THE zeal with which I have always been animated to contributCias much as might
be in mv power, to the improvement of the Public Imperial Musuefi of Natural His-
tory in the University of Pavia, by enriching it with the new and im|)rtant productions
I procured in the various journeys and voyages I undertook bothfin Italy and other
countries, incited me to travel, during the summer and autumn vaca|)ns, into the Two
Sicilies. Though this Museum al^oundcd in other kinds of nati^tl productions, it
\vas extremely deficient in volcanic matters, which merely consistL'l of a few trivial
scoriae of Vesuvius, and sonic extremely common lavas of the aami mountain, that,
having been cut into tablets and polished, had lost their distinguislngchamcteristics,
and consequently could little contribute to the instruction of yoilk and the advance-
ment of knowledge. j
As I knew that no countries in Europe could furnish a more am * and valuable col-
lection of volcanic products than the Phlegrean Fields, Mount £ a, and Eulian, or
Lipari Isles ; I resolved to visit them, and employed several months laborious but use-
ful researches. To make a proper choice, however, of the subst :es suitable to the
design I had in view, it was necessary to examine on the spot the irious qualities of
the bodies composing those volcanized regions. This I performe< vith the same dili-
gence and care I have usually exerted in the examination of otherni iral objects. Still
more to enable myself to make this selection, and correct my jud|^ nt with respect to
these subjects, I had read, and then re-perused, whateverlHKl' been ritten by travellers
and the most eminent naturalists relative to volcanos, and wa* rinociw grateful to them
for the instruction I derived from their works. In the coUrae of thjlinquiry, however,
I discovered what I had often experienced before, with respectto othe mbjects, in which
I had been preceded by other naturalists, that, notwithstanding the ele mt and interesting
iKCounts they had given us of the countries which have siiffitred the a ion of fire, it was
* These plates are omitted as a disgrace to the st*te of the utk in the ei
Tiew of the crater of Etna is that of a well ! .. 4 , _:„- w^,... :. .w._ .^,^^,„
eig^ BRth century. Tho
'i^**.,
JX-:^^.:^
.Vv;i>
IN THI T\^0 8ICILII8. 9
•
Still possible to nddto them by my researches, and throw new light on volcanic know
ledge. This I say not to arrogate to myself any merit, i\nd still less to detract from that
of others. The powers of the human mind are so limited, that it never can entirely ex-
haust the subject it investigates. Other naturalist* who shall hereafter diligently explore
the countries through whicli I travelled, it is not to be doubted, may impro\\ this part
of natural history with still new discoveries. In like manner, thou|jh otlu-rs have
written of the Phlegrean Fields, Etna, and the Eolian Isles, the observations I have made
appetir to me to merit publication.
The method in which I prosecuted my researches in these ThavcIs was the following :
I have endeavoured to study volcanic countries as mountains should be studied. The
lithologist who would acquire an accurate knowledge of the latter, attentively considers
their structure of rock, the whole of their huge masses, the position and direction of
the various parts or strata which compose them, and the intertexturc and relations of
those strata. I have adopted the same mode of innuiry in the course of these travels.
Fire in conjunction with elastic gases has formed wnole mountains and islands ; but all
of them have not been produced in the same maimer, nor are they com|)oscd of Uie
«ame substance. Here we find large masses of tufa ; tlicrc of scoriie and lavas ; in an-
other part, pumices, enamels, and glasses; and in another, a mixture of all these sub-
stiinces. It was therefore necessary to examine them on the spot, and observe, both
when they were separate and intermingled, their relations, directions, mixtures, &c.
without once losing sight of the peculiar composition of these volcanic mountains, every
part and recess of which it was requisite I should explore.
In these inquiries I particularly directed my notice to two objects : the central 8um>
mit of the islands and mountains, and their shores. The former is usually the first
sensible effect of the subterranean conflagrations, the part which first emerges from the
waves, which often preserves the crater entire, and sometimes burning, but more fre-
quently only its recognizable traces. The shores of volcanic islands and mountains
bathed by the sea, were also peculiarly entitled to attention, nor do I know that any
volcanist who has hitherto travelled has made them one of the objects of his inquiry.
We know how much it conduces to an accurate knowledge of the structure of moun<
tains, to cross, or go round them in the beds of torrents which have corroded their
foundations, and laid bare a part of their sides ; thus revealing, if I may use the ex-
pression, their internal organization, which without this aid would have been sought
in v^n from external appearances. The sea, by incessantly beating with its furious
waves the skirts of the islands, has caused fractures and ravages incomparably greater
than those occasioned by rivers. By coasting, therefore, these shores in a boat, land-
ing where they appear to invite particular attention, and examining their open sides,
and rocks half fallen down and falling, we may observe a variety of important facts
conducive to the improvement of that kind of science. I shall not here enlarge on the
advantages to be derived from coasting volcanic islands ; in the course of this work
they wiU be prov^ by lacts.
The researches I made in volcaniccountries, though necessary, and highly instructive
were not, however, sufficient to complete my design. As lithologists are not satisfied
with knowing the structure, stratification, and other general qualities ol mountains,
but endeavour likewise to discover the nature of their component parts, I resolved not
to depart from the same method of inquiry. It is true that some volcanic produc-
tions are so altered by the fire, that it b difficult to ascertain the nature of tlie earths
from which they have been produced, unless we call in aid the processes of chemistry.
Such .are tnamels, glasses, and frequently pumice& But lavas, which, in (he greater
:>•/-
IPALLANZANl's TnAVBLS
i)
part of ll»c places where I made my ohscrvntions, arc ahuitdant beyond all belief, are
ch
rock?!.
mngcd by the tire ns not to rct;iiti the evident charactcrii of their primitive
I bepan, then, by considering the external appearance and qualiticHof the places I ex-
amined, as far, at least, as circumstances would permit.
Whoever has undertaken to travel among mountains, in order to make researches
relative to the fossil kingdom, is not ignorant to what changes the suriaces of stony
substances, even the ntost solid and hard, are subject, from the action of the elements
during a long series of years and ages. Hence, if he would form an accurate judg-
ment of the stones he e:utmines, he will not fix his attention on those found on the
surface of the earth, but rather on those buried at some depth, and will frequently
forcibly Lreak and detach them from the intenml masses of which they ore a continua-
tion. Still greater changes take place in some parts of the mountains which throw out
fire, from the action of sulphureous acid vapours, besides tluit of the atmosphere and of
time ; and very frequently the volcanic product, which on the surface seems to be of
one kind, and at some depth, of another, is in fact the same, but more or less changed
in the first instance by the action of the atmosphejc, or that of sulphureous vapours.
To render my researches more accurate and certain, it was necessary that I should not
content myself*' ith a single inspection of the volcanic substances, on the spot where 1
gathered them. I therefore, wnen I returned to Puvia, re-examined them with the
greatest care, in the retirement of my study ; not only with the naked eye, but with
die aid of the lens, before 1 began to characterise and describe them lithologieally. The
reader will find some of the descriptions rather diffuse ; and, perhaps, I may be charged
with having been too minute. But it appeared to me tliut I could not be more concise ;
as a detailed description of such proftucts can alone enable us to discover to what kind
of rocks they a|)pertain, and what is the [>articular characteristic of the volcanic coun-
tries in which they are found. Those who, when treating of volcanos, have been sparing
of such descriptions, have left us imperfect works, though in other respects they may
be very valuable. All who are versed in these subjects, are acquainted with the ac-
count of the famous eruption of Etna in 1669, and the memoirs relative to different
remarkable conflagrations of Vesuvius by Seruo, Delia Torre, Sir Willi;im Hamilton,
and Bottis. With respect to what regards the currents of lava which those two vol-
canos at those times poured forth, the symptoms and phenomena that accompanied
them, and the other circumstances deserving notice which preceded and followed them,
their histories certainly merit great commendation. They will be highly valuable in
the estimation of every lover of volcanic science ; and I have frequently, in the course
of this work, derived such assistance from them as demands my grateful acknowledg-
ment. But from these relations, what idea can we in gcnenJ form of the nature of
the products ejected, and the currents they have formed? When do they describe with
suflicient accuracy a single sul^stance ? After having read these relations of the violent
eruptions which have burst from the sides of Vesuvius and Etna, we remain profoundly
ignorant, to what primitive rocks they appertain. I mean not by these remarks to in-
jure the reputation these writers have justly acquired. Their deficiency in lithological
studies, not cultivated at tl. x time as in the present, is a sufficient excuse ; I intend only
to shew the necessity there is for circumstantial description, which, in fact, form the basis
of all solid science.
It is necessary that I should here mention, with respect to the descriptions I have
given of the dinerent products of the various volcanic places I visited, that, though \
have treated diffusely, and in detail, of those of the Phlegrean Fields, situated to Xt
i»w»>
IN THR r wo SIC 1 1. IRS. 0
Wf.t (»f NnpUfi, and of olh( th of the I'olian or Li[);iri Isles ; I havf onlv spoken incidcn.
tall\ of the prodmiionsolV^fHUviiis and Klna, tlioiif^b both thtsc volcanos have i'lirnisltcd
m«* with afj;aat mimbtr orsiK-'ciinciis for thr Mu«»ciiin '.t l*avia j n:)t only '.i'caiisr that
to have I'xamiiK'd thtsc two inoiiiitains miiuitcly, would have rcfjuired years instead olii
few inoDthH; hut because n descrii)tion of these has already been extctited with ^icat
nl)ility by the Chevalier (iicK-ni, in his Lithologia Vesuviana, and by M. Dolomieii, in
hin ''Descriptive Catalogue of the Products of Ktna."
The opportunity afforded me by havin(( the:>e volcanic substances continually under
iny inspection at Pavia, induced me to make new exiKrin.tnts on them. It is certain, that
the f^reater part of them contain iron. Yet the proof of this by experiment was not
superfluous, as the greater or less ([uantity of the martial principle might thus be dis-
covered. I thea-forc used, according to circum&tanceH, the magnetic needle, or mag-
netized knife, I applied the former to the products reduced to powder, and d»c latter
to those in fragments ; taking care tint they bhould always be, as Ihr as I was able to
eflfect it, of the same configuration and volume. I then observed the different distances
at which they attracted the magnedc needle, witnout noticing the pieces which exerted
no such power, though I do MOt mean by that to deny that iney contained iron.*
I was attentive at the same time to an inquiry of much greater importance. Vesu-
vius, Etnn, the Kolian Isles, and Ischia, are large mountains formed of rocks which
have undergone li(|uefuction, and sometimes a true vitrification ; such has been the vio-
lence of the subterranean condagralianH. What fire can we produce equivalent to these
rflfects? I have discovered that the fia* of the glass-furnace will completely fuse again
the vitrifications, enamels, pumices, scoriae, and lavas of these and other volcanic coun-
tries. The same will, in like manner, vitrify rocks congenerous to those from which
these mountains have originated by the means of subterranean conflagrations. A leus
intense fire, on the contrary, produccy no such effect on any of these substances.
Ah I wished to attain to the most rigorous accuracy in this experiment, I was not sa-
tisfied with discovering that the fire of the glass furnace was capable of efl'ecting these
fusions ; I determined, if possible, to ascertain the precise degree of heat necessary to
nroducethem, for which purpose nothing could be better adapted Uian the pyrometer of
Wedgwood. This instrument, it is well known, is composed of two parts ; the thermo-
mctric pieces and the gage. The former arc small cylinders of very fine clay. The
latter, which is six inches long, is formed by two pieces of the same earth, the internal
sides of which are straight and smooth ; but so disclosed as to be more distant Trom each
other at one extremity than the other, thus forming a converging space divided into
two hundred and forty parts. '1 he greater aperture of this gage is the beginning of the
scale, and denotes the heat which produces a beginning of redness in iron. If, there-
fore, one of the clay cylinders shall have been exposed to a greater heat, it will be con-
tracted, and sink lower between the converging sides ; and, the sides being graduated,
the degree at which it stops will be the measure of its contraction, and consequently of
the decree of heat it has undergone ; the cylinders, as the inventor has observed, re-
presenting the mercury, and the converging sides the scale of the thermometer.
To ascertain, therefore, the degree of neat in the glass furnace necessiu-y for the fusion
of these volcanic productions, and the rocks whence they derive their origin, I made
use of this pyrometer in the following manner. I placed in the furnace, near the sub-
stances I intended to fuse, one or mcn^ of the clay cylinders above-mentioned, in a case of
* As the iron is sometimes ia the sUte of oxyde (calx) I emplojrod the usual methoda to revive it ia
the productions I examined.
/'*
^.■~^ -«' ■*•!»—««!»■-•«?» "»»-r.'M-»»<>»W-f<^»'"'™'"<>»'«»W"''»«*'*"*«'''W»*->''*^"^' ■"
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6
SPALLANZi^Nl's TRAVELS
the same clay, and let them remain there the whole time necessary for the fusion of those
substances. I then measured their contraction by the gage ; and found that the heat of
'the glass furnace was 871 degrees of this pyrometer; a heat, according to the observa-
tion of the inventor, but 2^ degrees less than that of welding iron, which latter heat
corresponds to 1 2,777'' of Fahrenheit's thermometer.* In fact, filings of iron (in which
the surface of the metal is greatly enlarged) being continued four-and-twenty hours in
the glass furnace of Pavia, of which I always made use in these experiments, congluti-
nated into a solid though friable body, and shewed an evident beginning fusion. Whence
1 conclude that a greater heat is usually kept up in these furnaces than is necessary for
the fusion of glass.
'I'houghthe blowing pine did not in general greatly conduce to the success of my ex-
periments, I sometimes found it useful. In some cases I likewise had recourse to the
assistance of fire excited by oxygenous gas (dephlogisticated air.)
There is scarcely any natural product, volcanic or not volcanic, of which I have
treated in this work, that I did not try in the fire, in one or other of the manners I
have described, and frequently more than once. These experiments in the dry way I
often accompanied with others in the humid, with respect to the, productions of volcanic
fire. The manner in ^vhieh I proceeded was as follows :
When the external appearance of these products perfectly agreed with that of earths
not volcanic before known, and anulised by able chemists ; I thought I might determine
the genus of the volcanic production without analysing it in the humid way ; and when
I made experiments on a few pieces, I found I was not deceived. But when the exter-
nal appearance appeared to me new, and not to agree with that of the earths already
known, I then had recourse to an examination by the humid method, by which 1 eluci-'
dated the genus, and frequently the species, of these substances. Before, therefore, I
proceeded to describe any pieces I had collected, I was certain, or thought myself so,
that I had obtained a sufficient knowledge of them. And when I could not arrive at
this knowledge, but remained uncertain to what genus they appertained, I have never
failed to express myself doubtfully. In these researches, equally laborious, delicate, and
necessary, I have employed much of my time, not without considerable expence. In
my volcanic travels I have been obliged to take upon myself the parts both of naturalist
and chemist. The lutural history of fossils is so closely connected with modern che-
misir'\ and the rapid and prodigious progress of die one so exactly keeps pace with that
of the other, that we cannot separate them without great injury to both. But as the
chemist in his laboratory can reason but imperfectly concerning the mountains, the com-
ponent earth of which he analyses; so the observations of the lithological traveller
must always be defective when not conjoined (at least when it may Ije necessary) with
chemical investigations. Wliat is true of fossils not volcanic, must likewise be so, in a
certain degree, and with necessary allowances, of volcanic fossils. Here, in fine, neither
observation alone, nor experience alone, are sufficient ; but both must join to conduct
the investigator of nature, or he cannot be successful in his researches.
Where my experiment;'.] inquiries have been short, I have incorporated them with my
narrative ; as they are relative to the productions I met with in the different places I
visited. But more than once I have found it convenient to act otherwise ; and the sub-
jects treated, appear to me to justify the method I have adopted.
What is the activity, in general, of volcanic fires, has been a question long agitated,
and which is certainly of difficult solution. In this dispute, writers have gone into op-
posite extremes ; some asserting that these fires are extremely active, and others that they
* Journal de Rozier, torn. xxx.
vi^rifi-.-Tri-i---.
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
aier
^vith
in a
Ither
luct
ited,
op.
[they
are very feeble, while all endeavour to support their opinions by flicts. Having treated
on volcanos so much at length in this work, I could not avoid considering this question.
I have weighed the arguments on both sides without prejudice ; I have made varitnis
experiments ; and declared in favour of the opinion which appeared to me to have the
strongest support from reason and from facts.
The nature of elastic gases by which the liquefied matters of volcanos are penetrated
and agitated, was another subject well deserving attentive consideration. The vacuities,
inflations, and tumors, which such matters frequently retain in a state of congelation,
can only be ascribed to the elasticity of these gases while they were in a state of liquidity.
Our common fire will reproduce in them these gases equally with the volcanic. In ll\ct,
many lavas, pumices, glasses, enamels, and scoriae, though by pulverisation they may
be deprived of these vacuities, which are more or less large, and usually orbicular, re-
cover them by refusion in the furnace; and in many of these bodies the gaseous bubbles
are so abundant, that by their great inflation, while in actual fusion, they force them to
flow over the edges of the crucible. These observations led the way to inquiries rcla -
tive to the qualities of these gases, by liquefying in chemical furnaces volcanic substances
reduced to powder, and placed in matrasses fitted to a chemical mercurial apparatus.
By a great number of experiments of this kind I discovered the true nature of these
gaseous substances, of which our knowledge was before very vague and uncertain.
This discovery naturally led to the inquiry what part the elastic gases take in the
eruptions of volcanos ; and this inquiry to a discussion of the causes of those eruptions.
The chemical processes I employed to ascertain the characters ofthe gases of volcanic
productions likewise discovered to me a new fact, which was, that several of these pro-
ductions contain muriatic acid. This discovery again produced new inquiries.*
Lastly, I must not omit the researches relative to the origin prismatic or basalti-
form lavas. It is an opinion almost universal, that lavas take this regular figure in the
sea, by the sudden condensation and congelation they suflercd when they flowed into it
in a fluid state. I could not have met with examples of this kind more proper to enable
me to form a judgment on the subject than those which presented themselves to my view
while coasting the shores of Italy, a great part of Etna, and the whole of the Lipari
Islands.
These different discussions relative to the efficacy of subterraneous conflagrations, the
gases of volcanic productions, the causes of the eruptions of volcanos, and the muriatic
acid contahied in various of their products ; with the inquiries concerning the origin of
basaltiforin lavas ; to treat them at length, as they required, would have too much bro-
ken the thread of the narrative of my travels. I have therefore placed them in such a
manner as not to interfere with my accounts of the Phlegrean Fields, Etna, and the
Eolian Isles.
In the volcanized countries in which I travelled, there are four craters still burning,
Vesuvius, Etna, Stromboli, and Vulcano. To all these four, from an ardent desire of
obtaining knowledge, I wished lo make a near approach. By Vesuvius this wish was
not gratified ; but Etna was more condescending, though incomparably more formida-
ble ; and a similar good fortune attended me at Stromboli and Vulcano. The clear
and distinct view I had of these three craters was equally pleasing and instructive. The
crater of Etna I delineated myself; the views of Vulcano and Stromboli are the work' of
a draughtsman I took with me for that purpose, and who likewise furnished me with
* In these chemical experiments I was greatly assisted by the Signors Nocctti, father and son ; the
former operator in the public school of chemistry in Pavia, and the latter repeater in the same. They
are both well versed in chemictd science, tuid are entitled to my grateful acknowledgments.
'
A
- — ■tJ-^TTi'*""'''"*^-^'^"
• 1 1
L
8
SPALLANZANl's TRAVELS
drawings of some other volcanic mountains described in this work. I shall only add,
that all these designs have been retouched and greatly improved by Sig. Francesco
Lanfranchi, an eminent painter in the university of Pavia.
The origin of the Lipari islands, which are the productions of fire, was certainly the
principal motive of my visiting them ; yet in many other respects they are certainly
\ XT}' interesting. The character, manners, and customs of the inhabitants ; their po-
pulation, agriculture, and commerce, are objects well deserving inquiry, and have the
greater claim to the attention of an Italian, from their being so litde known in Italy.
I have also made some observations on the animals in those islands, as for instance,
on a kind of birds which with us are birds of passage, but there (in part at least) station-
ary ; I mean swallows. Some years ago I made observations on the natural qualities
of several species of swallows (thehirundo rustica, urbica, riparia, apus, melba, Linn.)
and to these I now add those I made in the Lipari islands.
The environs of Messina, where, after I had finished my volcanic travels, I remained
more than a month, afforded me much instruction, from the variety of natural objects
they presented. Though four years and a half had elapsed since that unfortunate city
hud been laid in ruins by earthquakes, the melancholy scene was still fresh in every one's
memory. A great part of the public and private edifices were still in the same ruinous
condition to which they were reduced by that calamitous event. Numbers of the inha-
bitants still continued to lodge in the half-destroyed houses, and others in huts and
sheds ; while they all appeared oppressed and overwhelmed with fears from which they
had not yet recovered. The impressions made on me by what I saw of the effects of
this calamity were such that I could not refrain from giving a brief account of the me-
lancholy situation in which I found Messina, and of the destruction occasioned by the
dreadful earthquake in 1783.
Scylla and Charybdis, the former distant twelve miles fi-om Messina, and the latter
about a hundred paces within the famous Strait, were two objects to which I first turned
my attention. That part of the sea being then calm, at least as calm as the Strait of
Messina can be, I Avas enabled to take a near view of them both, and even to pass over
Charybdis in a boat. I also made inquiries of the Messinese sailors, who are employed
the greater part of the year in that Strait, and consequently have an opportunity of form-
ing a just and precise idea of these two celebrated places ; and from what they told me,
and the observations I made myself, I am convinced that Charybdis is not a real whirl-
pool, as has been hitherto believed.
In the Strait of Messina I found other instructive natural curiosities furnished by the
fisheries for the sword-fish (Xiphias gladius, Linn.) the ravenous shark (Squaluscarcha-
rias) and for coral (Isisnobilis.)
Being at Messina at the time of the annual passage of the sword-fish through the
Strait, I was present at the fishery, which appeared to merit some description, from the
singular form of the vessels employed in it ; the method of striking and taking the fish ;
and the qualities and periodical migrations of the animal. I have likewise made some
observations on some fish of the genus of the squalus, particularly the shark, sometimes
so dangerous to fishermen in that sea.
, Coral, for which the Messinese mariners fish the whole year, by tearing it with nets
suitable to the purpose from the rocks at the bottom of their Strait, has been long an
ambiguous production, and made to pass through all the three kingdoms of nature ;
some considering it as a fossil, others as a vegetable ; until at length it has been proved
to appertain to the class of animals, though it has the appearance of a plant ; and is
therefore now properly classed among the zoophyta. The excellent observations of
"tm
IN THE TWO SICtLI£S. 0
Peyssonel and Vitalianio Donati arc well known ; nor ought Marsigli to be denied the
K raise he merits, though a zealous maintainer that coral is a plant. Notwithstanding,
owever, these great discoveries, mucii was wanting to a coinplttc history of this noble
zoophyte, to which, I flatter myscli', I have in some small digrce contrihutal by tho ob-
servations I made on it at the time of the fishery, at which I was present.
On this occasion, while the fishermen were throwing the net for the cciral, I employed
myself in researches for marine animalcuiu. I carefully examined every piece of a stalk,
leaf, or other fragment of a marine plant, or any thing else which hung to the net,
having learned from experience that these substances sometimes contain wonders in the
class of animated beings ; for, as Pliny has wisely remarked, nature is greatest in her
least productions. When the fishermen, therefore, turned up their nets to free theiu
from the weeds which were mixed with the coral, I put these weeds into glass vessels,
filled with sea water, to observe the animals adhering to them, and select those which
appeared to present any remarkable novelty. Several of these were not wanting ; of
the genera of the ascidi?^ and the escharas. I likewise discovered some small polypi, in
which I could distinctly see the circulation of the fluids ; which has not, to my know-
ledge, been before observed in these minute animals. The description I have given of
them is accompanied with the necessary figurer..
The surface likewise of the Strait of Messina was equally favourable to my researches
with the bottom. In other parts of the Mediterranean, the Adriatic, the Archipelago,
and the Strait of Constantinople, I had examined several species of those molusca which
are commonly called medusae. I had admired the simplicity of their organization, and
especially that property by which certain species of them, of the weight of twenty pounds
or more, dissolve almost entirely into a liquor, nothing remaining of them but some
thin and dry pellicles, which are only a few grains in weight. I had never, however,
met with any of that phosphorescent kind which Loeflingius tells us he saw in the ocean
between Spain and America. The mention he has thus made of them, without adding
any further observations, can only serve to excite the curiosity of the reader; nor do I
know that any other author has described this rare animal. In the Strait of Messina I
had the pleasure to find abundance of these phosphorescent molusca, and the stay I
made in that city afforded me an opportunity to examine their organization, their mo-
tion, and the beautiful light they emit in the dark.
I concluded my reseiuxhes relative to the natural objects in the vicinity of Messina, by
examining the shore, hills, and mountains, which on the side opposite the sea look
toward that city. I could discover no sign of volcanization ; but I observed, first, im-
mense masses of testaceous and other animals petrified, the species of which were per-
fectly distinguishable. Secondly, granite, which probably is a continuation of that of
Melazzo, distant from Messina thirty miles to the north ; and with respect to which I
endeavoured to ascertain whether it formed strata, as some suppose, or only great masses,
as is the opinion of others ; as also whether it contained within it petrified marine bo«
dies, as has been conjectured. Thirdly, sand stone, which, it appears to me probable,
forms, in a great measure, the bottom of the Strait of Messina, extending to the point
Pelero, and being reproduced by a petrifying principle. We shall see that by means of
this principle, human skeletons, and other extraneous bodies, are sometimes found
included in it ; and that, in consequence of the same, at the part near Peloro, where
the Strait is narrowest, it is probable that Sicily, losing the name of an island, will one
day be again joined to Italy.
Having made the circuit of the Phlegrean Fields, the Eolian Isles, and Etna, the prin*
cipal objects of my travels, I returned to Pavia, going by sea from Naples, with-
VOL. V. <f
f" !
10
SI'AILANZAKI'S TRAVEIS
out the least thought of making any new obscrvutions. But the lake of Orbitello, cele-
brated for the immense quuntities of large eels (Murrena anguilla Linn.) it produces,
became a new incentive to my curiosity ; and a dead cahn detaining the vessel in whicli
I had taken my passage several days at Porto Ercole, a few miles distant from Orbitello ;
as I could easily obtain as many eels as I chose, I examined them with ^at attention,
to discover, if possible, the manner in which they propagate their species, since, not-
withstanding the numerous experiments that have been made both by ancient and mo-
dern naturalists to elucidate this question, it is not yet known with certainty >vhether
they are viviparous or oviparous. I'o the experiments I now made, when I returned in-
to Lombardy, I added many others in the following yeiys, made in every season.
With this view expressly I repaired to the lakes of Comacchio, which, with that above-
mentioned, abound more with this fish than any in Europe. I here assiduously studied
the various finalities of the animal, in order to illustrate its history, which is in many
respects deficient and obscure.
The last place at which I landed before my arrival at Genoa, was the island of Elba,
where I was obliged to remain five days in consequence of another calm. I profited
by this delay to visit the ancient and celebrated iron mines, where I procured for the
Imperial Museum at Pavia some noble specimens of that metal crystallized, and aug-
mented the copious collection I carried with me with some sulphures of iron (pyrites.)
I returned to the university about the end of the year 1788, Iiaving employed six
months in my travels in the two Sicilies ; with which, though they were at my own ex-
pence, like the greater part of my other travels, I am well satisfied, since I have been
able to contribute something to that noble public institution the Museum at Pavia ; but
my satisfaction will be still greater, if the work I now present to the public be approved
by its readers.
Thus I employed the summer and autumn vacations of that year. Some time before,
but especially in the vacations of 1789 and 1790, I made researches among the moun-
tains of Modena and Reggio, with respect to objects which, as they have a relation to
volcanos, may have a place in this work.
The fires of Barigazzo, which bum on the Apennines of Modena, have been long
known. These consist of groups of feeble flames collected in a narrow space, which rise
above the earth, are almost always visible, and, if by chance they become extinct, may
be rekindled by bringing a small flame to the spot where they were. The accounts of
them, however, are so few, and so defective, that at most they can only serve to compare
the present state of these flames with what it once was. The light afforded by modem
physics enables us to aflirm, without farther examination, that the cause of this feeble
fire must be h} drogenous gas (or inflammable gas.) I made a journey to Barigazzo
purposely to ascertain this, and found it to be the fact. In that vicinity there are six
other similar fires, at present only known to the Alpine peasants, all originating front
the same principle.
But in the present accurate state of our knov/lcdge relative to aeriform gases, it is too
little to say and prove that the cause of these various flames is hydrogenous gas. The
following are the principal inquiries which I think it necessary for me, as a naturalist, to
make with respect to these fires, and such objects as may have a relation to them.
First, to examine the structure and composition of those mountains ; and here I shall
incidentally have occasion to speak of Cimone, not far distant from Barigazzo, and the
highest mountain of our Apennines.
Secondly, carefully to remark the qualities of each of these fires, and the phenomena
accompanying them.
■■■»-Tl*v£
IN THE TWO 31CILL£S.
11
Thirdly, to compare these fires nourished by natural hydrogenous gas, with those
produced by hydrogenous gas procured by art.
Fourthly, tomukea rigorous analysis of the hydrogenous gas of ihe fires of Burigaz.
zo and the other neighbouring places, by means of the chemical mercurial apparatus i
and to carry to those Alpine heights vessels to contain the diflerent aeriform fluids, and
instruments necessary for these analyses.
Fifthly, to make the same analysis of the earths from which these fires arise. And here
I must observe by the way, that having made at Barigazzo ati excavation of some depth
and size, in order to obtaui the earth pure; the fires multiplied so much, and became
so powerful, that, after I had left the place, the hollow was employed as a furnace for
lime, and lime- stone as perfectly burnt in it as in furnaces prepared for the purpose.
Sixthly, to examine what may be the matters generative of this inexhaustible supply
of hydrogenous gas, which has been so long continually developed ; it being certain,
from authentic documents, that these fires have burned for a century and a half.
In the hills of Modena and Rcggio we find certain places which the people of- the
country call Salse, and which are a kind of volcanos in miniature, having the form ex-
ternally of the truncated cone, and internally of the inverted funnel. They sometimes
throw up into the air earthy matters ; which at other times overflow, and, pouring down
their sides, form small currents. Afler the manner of burning mountanis, they fre-
quently open with several mouths, and like them rage, thunder, and cause slight earth-
quakes around them. But in the true volcanos the primary agent is fire ; in these salsi-
Uie generative principle is entirely diff*erent.
Some of them have hitherto remained wholly unknown to naturalists ; of others au-
thors have written, but have described the phenomena with little accuracy and frequent
exaggeration; not to mention that, at the time when they wrote, the nature of the agent
from which these phenomena derive their origin was not discovered.
These salse liave claimed my attention equally with the fires above mentioned ; and
I have applied myself to study them with equal assiduity, and with the same chemical
analysis ; and as tliey both, after the manner of volcanos, undergo changes which appear
sometimes to have relation to those of the atmosphere, I have judged it necessary fre.
quently to visit them, and in different seasons to observe the various phenomena, and
with more certainty discover the secret causes to which they owe their origin.
The Traveb I now present to the public, and of which I have here given the sum-
mar)', will be speedily followed by anoiher work containing an account of my voyages to
Constantinople, in the Mediterranean, and in the Adriatic.
:f.i
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X
TRAVELS, &c.
CHAPTER I.
A VISIT TO VESUVIUS DURING THE TIME OF AN ERUPTION.
n..--'
Little notice taken by the Neapolitans of the smaller eruptions of this volcano.... Phenomena ob>
8er\'ed by the author on his arrival at Naples....His approach near to the crater prevented by
showers of ignited stones, and acid-sulphureous fumeB....Extraordinary phenomenon relative to
these showers....Explication of that phenomenon....Remarks on the congelation of a torrent of
lava....Observations on a stream of lava flowing within a CRvem.«..Projected experiment for
measuring the quantity uf heat in the flowing lava....Other observations on t'.'^ lava issuing from
a Bubternineous cavity •...Remarkable cataract formed by it in its passage.... Length, breadth, and
termination of this torrcnt....Phenomena of this eruption of Vesuvius compared with those of
preceding ones.. ..Erroneous opinion of some naturalists, that the lava is not fluid, but of the
consistence of paste....Compo8ition of this lava....Observation8 on a lava of Vesuvius which
'flowed in 1785.... Proofs that the shuerls and feltspars found in the lava existed previously in
• the primordial rocks.
tM^ «*t-: l.<jftU&.> .«^».'< « .Vb.ki.iAA < »
WHEN I arrived at Naples, on the 24th of Juhr 1788, though Vesuvius was not in
a state of inactivity, its conflagration was not sufficient to excite the curiosity of the
Neapolitans ; who, from having it continually before' their eyes, are seldom inclined to
visit it, but during its great and destructive eruptions. At that time, during the day, it
without intermission sent forth smoke, which rising formed a white cloud round the sum-
mit, and, being driven by the north-east wind, extended in a long stream to the island
of Capri. By night repeated eruptions of fire were visible, though no subterraneous
explosions were to be heard at Naples ; and a tract of ground to the south of the crater
assumed a dusky red colour, which, by the experienced in volcanic phenomena, was said
to be preparatory to the flowing of the lava. I should immediately have repaired to the
place, had not my friends at Naples assured me, from the practical knowledge they had
of their burning mountain, that that eruption, which at my arrival was but inconsidera-
ble, would after some time become much more extensive. It was in fact my wish to
see Vesuvius, if not raging with its most tremendous fur}', at least in a more than ordi'
nary commotion.
I, in consequence, returned from Sicily to Naples in the beginning of November,
when a stream of lava, issuing from an aperture in the side of the mountain, covered a
considerable extent of ground, and began to be visible before day -light, from beyond
Capri, under the appearance of a streak of a reddish colour. On the 4th of the same
month I began my journey to the volcano, and passed the night at the Hermitage del
Salvatore, two miles from the summit of the mountain. Before I retired to rest, I passed
several hours in making observations with the greatest attention ; nor could the oppor.
tunity have been more favourable, as there was no moon, and the sky was perfectly free
from clouds.
I hud therefore a clear view of the eruption of the mountain, which had the appear--
ancc of a red flame, that enlarged as it rose, continued a few seconds, and then disap-
b?«-';i'
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
19
pearcd. The ejections succeeded each other at unequal intervals of time ; but no in.
termission continued longer than five minutes.
I rose four hours before day, and continued my journey towards the burning crater,
from which, as I have before said, flames arose at intervals, which on a nearer approach
appeared larger and more vivid ; and every ejection was followed by a detonation, more
or less loud, according to the quantity of burning matter ejected : a circumstance 1 did
nut notice before, on account of the distance, but which became mere perceptible to the
ear in proportion as I approached the mouth of the volcano ; and I observed, when I
had airived within half a mile of it, in a direct line, that the ejections preceded their ac
company ing explosions only by an instant, which is agreeable to the laws of the pro-
pagation of light and sound. At this distance not only Hames were visible to the eye,
but a shower of ignited stones, which, in the stronger ejections, were thrown to a pro-
digious height, and thence fell on the declivities of the mountain, emitting a great
quantity of \lAd sparks, and bounding and rolling till they came within a short distance
of the place where I stood. These stones, when I afterwards examined them, I found
to be only particles of the lava, which had become solid in the air, and taken a globose-
form. These showers of lava appeared an invincible obstacle to my nearer approach
to the volcanic furnace. I did not, however, lose all hope, being encouraged by the
following observation. The showers of heated stones, I remarked, did not fall verti-
cally, but all inclined a little to the west. I therefore removed to the east side of Ve-
suvius, where I could approach nearer to the burning mouth : but a wind suddenly
springing up from the west, compelled me to remove, with no little regret, to a greater
distance, as the smoke from the mouth of the crater, which before rose in a perpendicu-
lar column, was now drifted by the wind to the side on which I stood ; so that I soon
found myself enveloped in a cloud of smoke abounding with sulphureous vapours, and
was obliged hastily to retire down the side of the mountain. Yet though I was thus
disappointed of the pleasure of approaching nearer to the edg^ of the crater, and observ-
ing the eruptions more nearly and accurately, many instructive objects were not wanting.
But before I proceed to any remarks on these, I must notice a curious and unexpected
circumstance.
I have already spoken of the detonations which accompanied the showers of lava.
It is now necessary to add, that these did not constantly accompany every eruption.
When I liad taken my station in the lower part of the mountain, 1 found the detonations
more sensible, and resembling the noise produced by a large mine when it explodes; but
suddenly, to my great surprise, they ceased, though the ejections of fiery matter con-
tinued both frequent und copious. 1 counted eighteen eruptions which were not accom-
panied by the smallest noise. The nineteenth, though not larger than the former, was
followed by its detonation, as were eleven more, though others which succeeded were
silent. This irregularity I observed so repeatedly, that the detonations appeared to me
rather accidental than necessarily connected with the explosions. In this opinion ,1 am
supported by the authority of my ingenious friend, the abbe Fortis who afterwards told
me, at Naples, that he had frequently observed the same inconstancy in the eruptions of
Vesuvius. *
• This peculiar phenomenon, which has not, to my knowledge, been remarked by any
one of the numerous authors who have written on Vesuvius, docs not appear, at first
view, to be easily explicable from the physical cause of the explosions. As it must be
allowed that the fire alone is not sufficient to produce it, we must have recourse to an
elastic fluid, which disengages itself from the lava, impelling at the same time a part of
it into the air J which effect can scarcely happen without a detonation. But on more
I
I •
I
i »
^.
I '■
i
•;
ill •
U
SPALLAKZAKl'f TRAVELS
mntiirc reflection it nppcared to mc most probable that this takes place only within ccr>
tain limits. When the clastic fluid bursts suddenly against the lava, it is to be expect-
ed that it will produce a considerable report ; but when it acts slowly it will occasion
little or none, though the ejection may be very strong. Thus, if the atmospheric air be
confnicd between two {lellets of tow in a tube, and one of them be forced suddenly to>
wards the other, the latter will be projected to some distance, with a considerable sound,
but none, or very little, will be heard if the jxMlet dc gradually pressed towards the
other. In like manner the air contained in an air gun produces scarcely any report on
its dischurge, on account of the interposition of the vulve delaying its action on the
ball.
In what I have said, however, I do not mean to assert tlmt these volcanic eruptions
were entirely unaccompanied with any explosive sound. It is highly probable they were
not \ but that I could not hear the feebler detonations on account of the distance. i^
It has been already said, that the liquid lava had opened itself a way, not immediate'
ly from the summit of the crater, but • >vci one side of the mountain. The following
arc the observations made on this subject. Towards the south-east, at the distance ca
about half a mile from the crater, on a declivity, there arose sixty or more small columns
of smoke, one of which was aioout nine feet in diameter, and came from a not very deep
cavern. The ground from which these streams of smoke bsued was tinged with yeU
low, from the muriate of ammoniac, and so hot, that even at some distance, I could
bear my feet on it only for a few seconds. It is sufficiently manifest that the smoke and
heat proceeded from the sair'' cause ; that is to say, from the subterraneous conflagra-
tion which communicated with that part, and caused the smoke to burst forth through
the fissures in the ground. .; „ ., ,.•„'+,.' i^ f.
At the distance of a few paces from this spot, the aperture v^ visible through which,
six months before, the lava disgorged itself, as I was assured by my guide ; but it no
longer flowed at the time of my arrival, its current liaving acquired the liardness of
stone. About HAy i>aces lower, however, in tlie same direction, that is towards the
south, the lava was still running within a kind of pit, but without rising, above its bor>
ders ; and at a place still lower, about two miles from the principal crater of Vesuvius,
tlie lava issued from the subterranean cavern, forming in the open air a long current.
But before I proceed to describe the latter, it will be proper to notice the highly curious
phenomena observable in the lava moving within the above-mentioned cavity or pit.
This pit was of a sliajie approaching to an oval, about twenty-three feet in circuit. The
sides, or banks, were nearly perpendicular, about four feet and a half in height ; and it
was excavated in the hardened lava of the last eruption. The burning lava moved with-
in this cavern, of which it covered the whole bottom, in the direction of from north to
south. From it arose a cloud of smoke, which reflecting tlie light from the red hot lava,
produced in the air a red brightness, that during the night might be seen at a consider-
able distance. But as this smoke was strongly impregnated with acid-sulphureous va-
pours, I found it a great obstacle to my making any observations on the liquid lava,
when, from the calmness of the air, it ascended perpendicularly. But, from time to
time, a slight breeze arose which carried the stream Awards one side ; and I then re-
moved to the opposite, where I was no longer incommoded hi my experiments by the
vapour. During these favourable intervals, I could stoop down towards the pit, in
which I obs':rved the appearances which I here faithfully relate.
At the distance between the lower extremities of ,my body and the lava was only five
feet, the heat it sent forth was ver}- vehement, but not attsolutely iotolerabl^» thpu|^)jr(
forced me to remove from it a little, froni time to time, v v...t * iv.u, ,«w-i« i^ii^'iWi' v
V,-|5i«>.|x
IN THE TWO SICILII8.
IS
in
I observed then that the lava flowed, as I have before said, alonp this cavity, from the
north to tlic south, and then disappeared under the excavated hardened lava. Its sur-
face exhibited the redness of burning coal, but without the smallest nppearancc of flame.
I know nothing to which it can be more properly compared th, n melted brass ii\ a fur-
nace. This superficies was in fjome places covered with a white froth ; and from time
to time bubbles arose in it, which burst a moment ai^cr with a sensible noise. Sometimes,
likewise, the lava rose in small jets or spouts, which, in un instant after, subsided, and
the surface again became smooth and even.
The nearness of my approach to this melted matter, which I observed, first, during
the darkness of the night, and afterwards by the light of day, removed every shade of
doubt or uncertainty respecting the remarks I made. It likewise furnished me with an
opportunity to make some experiments which I otherwise could rtot have made. I was
desirous to let fall some heavy body into the flowing lava ; but my situation would only
permit me to use, for this purpose, pieces of lava which lay rouriU the cavern, as 1
could find no substance of any other kind. When I threw these pieces into the lava,
they occasioned that dull kind of sound which would have been produced by striking
soft earth or thick mud ; and at the same time formed in the lava an incavation, in w'lich
they were buried about one third part of their bulk, and in this situation were carried
away by the current. The same happened when I, at other times, used larger pieces,
and threw them forcibly into the lava ; the only difference was that then they sunk in
deeper.
From this experiment I ascertained the velocity of the lava, as it is certain that must
have been the same with that of the stone carried by it. In about half a minute, the pieces
of solid lava were carried ten feet and a half. The motion of the current was therefore
very slow ; which was not surprising, as the declivity was very little. We shall sec
presently, that the pieces of lava with which I made my experiment, were probably of
the same kind with the lava which was flowing ; on which account I, at first, ex-
pected that they would have sunk entirely within it, since it is well known that all bo-
dies which pass from a fluid to a solid state become more compact ; but a moment's
reflection convinced me that the fact could happen no otherwise than it did. The pieces
of lava which I threw into the current were full of pores and cavities, which in the liould
lava could not have place, or at least could not be so numerous ; these pieces, therefore,
must be lighter than the liquid lava. Another reason, which I consider as still more
decisive, is derived from the tenacious liquidity of the flowing lava, which must prevent
the entire immersion of the solid lava, though the latter should be specifically heavier.
Thus I have observed that a solid globe of glass, though thrown with some force into a
liquid mass of the same matter, will not remain entirely submerged, but float with a
part above the surface.
I would willingly have made another experiment, which I should have considered as
of much {greater importance ; but I had not with me the instruments necessary to
undertake it ; because I had not the least expectation that I should have been able to
approach so near to the flowing lava as would have given me an opportunity to have
used them.
The experiment I mean was to have ascertained the degree of absolute heat of the
flowing lava, and might have been very conveniently made at tl Is place. As therefore
circumstances did not permit me to make a second visit to Vesuvius, and as these cavi.
ties which receive into them the flowing lava are frequently met wi^h in volcanic erup-
tions, it may not be improper here to detail the nature and mode of the experiments I
would have made, had I been furnished with the necessary means, in ho^>e that some
I
.
:i
16
SPALLANZANI ii IRAVKM
similar opportunity may induce lomc one of the few natunilists of Naples who are de-
Vtrouu tociilurgc the knowledge we huvc of their volcano, to curry them into effect.
First, therefore, I would huvc let foil on the luva within that cavity two kinds of
substances, inflammable and fusible, contrivin^^ some means to keep them fixed in the
r.an)c place ; punctually noticing the time required for the inflaming of the former and
the fusion of the latter. I woilld then have exposed the same substances to our com-
mon fires, until the same eflects hod been produced, observing the difierer.ce of time
between the production of the eflect by the volcanic fire and ttie common. I should
thus have obtained a term of comparison of great utility in the inquiry proposed.
Hut a method more precise and certain, would be to make use of the pyrometer of Mr.
Wedgwood;* whicn should l)e used in the following manner; to ascertain the abso-
lute heat of the su])erficies of the lava, one or more of the cylinders of clay should be
Ut down upon it, inclosed in the box of the same earth adapted to them, fastened to
un iron cham that it may not be carried away by the current, and the experiment pre*
\cnted. This being taken up, after having been suffered to remain there some hours,
the shortening of the cylinders would shew the ouantity of absolute heat they hud suf*
fcred, and, consequently, that of the lava on which they had rested.
But with this expernnent alone I should not have been entirely satisfied. By the
.ibsistance of this same pyrometer, I would have endeavoured to discover the internal ab<
solute heat of the lava, by immerging within it some of the cylinders I have before men-
tioned, inclosed in a thick hollow globe of iron, fastened to a chain of the same metal.
The infusibility of iron in our common furnaces inclines me to believe that it w6uld re-
sist the heat of the liquid lava ; but should it not, its melting would supply the place of
a pyrometer, and sufficiently prove the violence of the heat.
I am aware that these experiments would not ascertain, with precision, the heat of
other torrents of lava, which must necessarily depend on the greater or less depth of
the ignited matter, its distance from the princii)al seat of the conflagration, and tlie dif-
ferent qualities oi the lava. But they must have been of considerable importance, and
I can never sufficiently regret not havmg had it in my power to make them.
It may, perhaps, be doubted whether the globe of iron I have mentioned could be
made to penetrate through the tenacious sui^erficies of the lava : but there seems little
reason for this doubt, wlien we consider that the pieces of porous lava, which are far
lighter than this metal, penetrated it to one third of their bulk. And though it should
not be able to divide that part of th^ superficies which, by being in contact with the
air, has less liquidity ; that might be separated by other means, and the globe imme-
diately plunged into the more fluid part of the lava.
I do not deny but that these and other similar experiments are difficult, offensive,
and, in some degree even dangerous ; but what experiment can be undertaken perfectly
free from inconvenience, and all fear of danger, on mountains which vomit forth fire?
I would certainly advise the philosopher who wishes always to make his observations en-
tirely at his ease, and without risk, never to visit volcanos.
But it is time to continue my narrative of the phenomena I observed in this eruption
of Vesuvius. Though the lava issued at its origin from only a narrow aperture, the
stream of it became considerably enlarged as it descended the declivity of the moun-
tain, and formed other smaller torrents : but at about the space of a mile from the
mouth whence it issued, its superficies had acquired the solidity of stone. I endea-
voured to pass over this, notwithstanding the difficulty of walking on it, as it was en-
* See the Introduction.
',«»!h»»
IN THE TWO StCtt.lll.
IV
tircly <:uni|KHictl of small diitjoincd icoritc, on which the foot could not rest with rirm<
iicdM, and so hoi tluit I was obliged to change my mIiucn, thonc I had lK'in^^ worn out,
and huirhimit.
IksidcM two other pits, itimilar to that I luivc described, and Home burning orinceii
in «.vhieh, when I hniked into them, I could perceive die lifpiid lava resembling melted
glass in a furnace when it burns with the utmost violence ; 1 observed, likewise, the traces
of the course which the lavu had taken or resumed. Here the channels through which
it had floucd remained, but empty ; there some residue of it was to be seen ; und others
were full oi' it. One had the form of a cylindric tulie, and another that of a parallclo-
pipid. But the direction of all these chiuuiels through which the lava h.id flowed was
towards the south. It ditl not require much attention to |)ereeive, that under the solid
lavu on which I walked the fluid was still running ; the low but distinct sound it occa-
uoned in its passage was clearly (icrceptible to the ear.
A sutficient illustration of what I mean may be given from what frequently happens,
in winter to many slow streams, in the northern parts of Italy. In these, when the
winter is severe, the superficies of the water at first adheres to the banks, und afterwards
congeals in the middle, forming a crust of ice which increases in thickness, from night
to night, while the water, which is still fluid, if there is suflicient depth, continues to
run under it ; though the thickness of the ice increases, till after some days it is sufli*
cicntly strong to bear men to walk on it, or even greater weights. If any person
should then go upon it, and apply his ear close to it, he would near the sound of the
water running under, as I Iwve several times experienced in the vicinitv of Pavia. This
sound appears to me to be precisely the same with that occasioned by the Vcsuvian lava
flowing under the solid lavu, and proceeds doubtless from the same cause ; I mean the
obstacles the fluids meet with and strike against in tlieir passage ; as the cause of conge-
lation is likewise the same in both, that is, the privation or rather the diminution of
their absolute heat.
Pursuing my way to the south, along the declivity of the mountain, I arrived at the
part where the lava run above the ground. Where the stream was broadest, it was
twenty-two feet in breadth, and eighteen where narrowest. The length of this torrent
was two miles, or nearly so. This stream of lavu when compared with others which
have flowed from Vesuvius, and extended to the distance of five or six miles, with a
proportionate breadth, must certainly suffer in the comparison ; but considered in itself,
and especially by a person unaccustomed to such scenes, it cannot but astonish and most
powerfully affect the mind. When I travelled in Switzerland, the impression made
upon me by the Glaciers was, I confess, great ; to see in the midst or summer im-
mense mountains of ice and snow, placed on enormous rocks, and to find myself shake
with cold, wrapped up in my pelisse on their frozen cliffs, while in the plain below na-
ture appeared languid with the extreme heat. But much more forcibly was I affected at
the sight of tltis torrent of lava, which resembled a river of fire. It issued from an
aperture excavated in the congealed lava, and took its course towards the south. For
thirty or forty paces from its source, it had a red colour, but less ardent than that of the
lava which flowed within the cavern I have mentioned above. Through this whole space
its surface was filled with tumours which momentarily arose and disappeared. I was
able to approach it to within the distance of ten feet ; but the heat I felt was extremely
great, and almost insupportable, when the air, put in motion, crossed the lava, and
blew upon me. When J threw into the tcvrent pieces of the hardened lava, they lelt
a very slight hollow trace. The sound they produced was like that of one stone striking
against another ; and tliey swam following the motion of the stream. The torrent gt
VOL. V.
^
.-»..-. ,__a*'
It
BPALLAHZAin't TRAVILI
I
I
i
fr
ftrnt descended down an inclined nlunc which mnde an angle of nbout 45 degrees with
the horizon, flowing at the nite of eighteen feet in u minute : but ut about the diittance
of thirty or Forty paceo from itN source, its su|)erficies, cleared from the tumours I have
before mcntionrd, shewed only large flakcMof the substance of the lava, of an extreme-
ly dull ivd, which, clashing together, produceu a confused sound, andv"..t borne along
by the current under them.
Observing these phenomena with attention, I perceived tlic cause of this diversity of
«p])farancc. The lova, wlicn it inHued from the Hubtcrranean caverns, l)egan, from the
imprt*!»!iion of ilic cold uir, to lose its fluidity, so that it yielded less to the stroke of solid
bodies. The loss of the principle, however wus not such as to prevent the superficies
from flowing. Rut at length it diminished by the increasing induration ; and itun, the
Buperflciul part of the lava, by the unequal adhesion of its ports, wus separated into
flaicrN, which would have remained motionless hud they not been borne away by the sub-
jacent matter, which still remained fluid, on account of its not being exposed to the im-
mediate action of the air, in the same mtumcr us water curries on its surface floating
flakes of ice.
Proceedinjj further, I perceived that the stream wos covered, not only with these
flakes, but with u great quantity of scoriae ; and the whole mass of these floating mat*
ters was carried uwuy by the fluid lava, with unequal velocity, which was small where
the declivity was slight, but considerable when it was great. In one pluce, for ten or
twelve feet, the descent was so steep that it diflfered but little from a perpendicular.
The luva must therefore be expected there to form a cataract. This it in fact did,
and no sight could be more curious. When it arrived at the brow of this descent, it
tell headlong, forming a large liquid sheet of a pale red, which dashed with a loud noise
on the ground below, where the torrent continued its course.
It appeared to me tlmt it might be expected that, where the channel was narrow,
the velocity of the torrent must be increased, and where it was capacious diminished ;
but I observed tliat, in proportion as it removed from its source, its progressive motion
became slower ; and the reason for thi*; is extremely obvious ; since the current of
melted matter being continually exposed to the cold air, must continually lose some
portion of its heut, and consequenUy, of its fluidity.
At length the lava, after having continued its course about two miles, along the de-
clivity of the mountain, stopped, and formed a kind of small lake, but solid, at least on
the superficies. Here the fiery redness disappeared ; but about two hundred feet
higher it was still visible, and more apparent still nearer to its source. From the
whole of this lake strong sulphureous fumes arose, which were likewise to be observed
at the sides where the lava hod ceased to flow, but still retained a considerable degree
of heat.
'■*•*■ Afler having ^vritten these observations on the lava ejected by Vesuvius, as it ap.
peared irom its source to its termination, which I made in company with Dr. Comi
Abruzzese, a young student of great promise in medical and physical science, I had an
opportunity to read the accounts of former eruptions, as they have been given by men
of great abilities, who had observed them on the spot, I mean Dr. Serao, Father Delia
Torre, M. Deluc, and Sir William Hamilton. 1 {lerceive that in the principal facts,
the phenomena I have observed agree with their observations, and that the diflPerences
arc but few. Thus the torrents of lava which they have described were accompanied
with great fumes, and covered with pieces of lava and scoriae. In like manner the
liquid lava received but small impressions from the stroke of solid bodies, and some-
times none. Scrag informs us, that the lava of 1737, when struck on the surCace
im]
with I
oljitcr
IN TUB TWO ■IClllll. 19
lonff poinU ct MftVf«, wan foiiiu! lo tx* »io har<l that It rcnoniMkd. Arronllnfif to the
vutiou of Father Delia i'orrc, the thick lava of tin- eruption of 1754, wIkii raised
withion^ poles, «plit into picccii. M. D'luc shewed u\c, sonic vcarn Jiincc, in Iuh prl-
vnte oahuict of natural hi»torv, «t Geneva, a niece of Vcnuviun lava, of the eruption of
1758, marked with a slight mipression, whicli he made on it, on the spot, whiU it re-
tained its softness. If this natunilist shotdd ever chance to come to Pavia I could shew
him, in return, in the pulilic Im|KTial Museum, amoii^^ the collection of volcanic pro.
ductions which I have made, a cylinder of lava, eighteen inches long, and five and a half
thick, which, in one purt, lias been bent to an an(jle, while it vis half lifpiid, by the
hands of the guide who accompanied mc when I visited the eruption I have above dc«
•cribcd. In the eruption of 1 766, likewise, though the lava flowed with surprising ye-
locity, we arc told by Sir William Hamilton, tliat it received but a very slight impressioii
from some large stones tluit he threw into it. father Delia Torre has also remarked
another phenomenon which I observed, and have described, relative to the efTervesceiicc
and tumours of the fluid lava.
But my; meeting with the su!)tcrrancan cavity in which the lava flowed, was a fortu-
nate and singular circun.stancc, which is not, that I know of, mentioned by any one else,
because probably it was not sc -n ; since all the descriptions of eruptions which we have,
relate solely to currents of lava running over the surface of the ground, exposed to the
free action of the air ; from the tflect of which the lava must soon cool and harden ; as
appears from the very slight impression made by stones thrown into it, according to all
the accounts I have cited, and my own observations. But the narrowness c f this cavern,
and in some measure its depth, prevented this action of the air ; whence I was enabled
to observe the lava in a state in which it cannot be seen above the ground, still retaining
a great part of its fluidity, as appeared from its from time to time sptouting into the air,
and from the impressions made on it by the pieces of lava thrown into it. It cannot,
therefore, be doubted but it had a much greater degree of fluidity when it boiled up in
the Vesuvian furnace; as it must then have been penetrated with a greater quantity of
absolute heat, by the action of which its parts must have been more aisioined and sepa«
rated, and therefore have possessed r^'reater degree of fluidity and mobility. But I sliall
adduce still stronger reasons to prove the great fluidity of the lava, when it foams and
boils up in its craters, when I come to sjKiak of the volcano of Stromboli. I dwell the
lon^r on this subject, because I know sonic have denied that the lava is ever fluid, as-
serting, that it has only the consistence of paste moistened with a good deal of water, and
descends down any declivity in consequence of its gravity.
To complete the observations I have made on this eruption, nothing appears to remain
but to speak of the quality of the ejected lava.. On this I made different experiments,
all of which, some extrinsic or accidental circumstances excepted, furnishea the same
results. The base of the lava is of horn-stonc rock, of a dark-gray colour, of moderate
hardness, dry to the touch, where it has l)een fresh broken somewhat earthy, and gives
some sparks with the steel. This lava put the magnetic needle in motion at the distance
of three lines and a half, or somewhat more than a quarter of an inch.
*; It is well known to volcanic naturalists, that many of the lavas of Vesuvius contain
colourless gar!\cts. In that of which I treat, they were found very numerous, though
V ry small. When broken, they apjieared glassy ; and sometimes a kind of side or face
*' was visible, though without its being possible to determine the quality of the crystalli-
^'zation, not so much from their smallness as from their being too intimately incorporated
' tvith their tenacious matrix. With the garnets were united a number of shoerls, of the
cplourandlustreofasphaltum. vitreous crystallized in faces, the largest of which ^s
•"w^ruft- -v»i'' «^^ ^.'f'V.' ^.>Mv> XiXl V d 2 -^t
M.>— Arf.^ ,_J— i<M
20
bTALLANZANl's TRAVELS
nearly five lines. Those which were found in the running lava had received no injury
from the fire ; but those in the globes ejected from the crater in that eruption, were in
a state of beginning fusion.
The fire of the furnace changed this lava into a kind of enamel, full of bubbles, of
the colour of pitch, shining, wliich gave sparks with steel, and adhered strongly to the
sides of the crucible.* The shoerls melted, but the garnets did not ; they only became
whitish, but without entirely losing their vitreous appearance.
After having made my observations on the phenomena exhibited by the stream of
lava then running, I proceeded to examine the vestiges of others which liad flowed some
time before ; one of which, in November 1785, had issued at about one third of a mile
from its crater, on the side of Monte Somma. As I do not know that any notice lias yet
been taken of it by others, I shall relate the observations I made as I passed over the
remains of it, and likewise the information given me concerning it by my guide, and
some persons who cultivate the study of Natuial History, who had observed it on the
spot at the time of its eruption.
Although at its source it was but narrow (as generally happens to these streams of
lava) it after^vards became considerably enlarged, and did not form small, disjoined,
and rugged pieces like the others I have described ; but large masses, many feet in
breadth and depth, and separated by numerous fissures. Its superficies presented an
appearance not a little curious. It was rugged and irregular, from an immense number
of small cylindric bodies resembling twisted cords, and which arc only the lava itself re-
duced into striated and contorted fibres, when near the end of its course, and ready to
congeal. In its qualities it did not appear to me to differ from the other Vesuvian lava
I had already examined, either in its base or the garnets and shoerls which it contained.
The greater part of this lava lies in a valley under Massa, and on one side of Salvatore.
Before it arrived there, it must have fallen from a high rock, and consequently formed a
cataract, which, when seen by night, I was told, exhibited a most wonderful spectacle
to the eyes of beholders. But though its fall through the air must have been very con-
siderable, and it must in consequence have lost much of its heat, when it reached the
ground it continued still to flow for a considerable space. On the side of Massa, I ob-
served that it had approached within ten or twelve feet of some oaks which grew on the
side of a precipice. Some of them appeared entirely withered ; others preserved their
verdure only on that side of the trunk and branches which was opposite to that next the
lava. In its passage it did such damage to a small church called Madonna della Vetrana,
that it has ever since remained deserted. The fiery torrent took it in front, and broke
down the wall, which indeed required no great force, as it was built with soft stones of
tufa brought from the neighbouring mountains of Massa, and much like that of Naples.
Thence it penetrated into the church, and having destroyed the door on the opposite
side, and beat down a part of the wall, continued its course, through the church, within
which it was observed to flow with greater velocity than the rest of the surrounding
lava, from being confined by the walls on the sides. With this lava the floor of the
edifice still continues covered, and the contigiious sacristy partly filled ; while large
pieces of the broken wall, which the torrent had carried away, lie at more than eighty
feet distance from the church, in the middle of the hardened lava. Some linden trees
r
■:i
* To avoid repetitions, I shall hefc mention, that, when I use the word furnace without any other
addition, I always mean the furnace of a glass-house; and that by the term enamel, I understand,
with the generality of our chemists, a substance produced by heat, resembling glass, but without its
transparency. It may also be proper to add, that, as often as an entire fusion of the lava took place
in the crucibles, it adhered strongly to the sides.
1 ^*^'l.f'
IN' THE TWO SICltlES.
21
arc likewise to be seen suirounded by the same, the trunks of \vlii':h are blackened and
burnt. The lava, as I was assured, continued to flow fifteen months ; and when I visit-
ed the place, which was ten months after it had ceased to flow, it was still warm, and
emitted thin fumes.
On one side of Vesuvius, about a mile below Salvatorc, is a spacious cavern, which
widens as wc descend into it, called the Fossa Grande. I took this way to return ti >
Naples, and gained from it considerable and useful information. It is well known what
doubts have been entertained relative to the shoerls and feltspars which nre usually
found, either conjointly or separately, in the lavas ; I mean whether they have beep
formed within them, either while they were fluid, or at the time of their congelation ; or
whether they existed in the original rock before the fire changed it into lava. Bergman
has stated the arguments on each side, but has lefl the controversy undecided. It is true,
that, when that chemist wrote on volcanic productions, the opinion was, with good rea
son, most prevalent, which supposes that the shoerls and feltspars existed originally in
the primordial rocks. This liypothesis has received considerable support from the
pieces of rock anciently thrown out of Vesuvius, which are to be found on the surface
of the ground; or by searching and digging in the tufaceous matters of the Fossa
Grande.
But it is necessary to proceed to particulars. One species of these rocks is of a mar-
gaceous nature, the carbonate of lime however prevailing. As this did not appear to be
at all calcined, but unchanged, and similar to stones of the same kind which arc not vol-
canic, it aflfoided a convincing proof that these rocks have received no sensible injury
from the fire ; but if wt break some of these, we shall find in them numbers of feltspars,
which, in their crystallization, and other exterior characters, extremely resemble many
of those we meet with in some lavas of Vesuvius, and other neighbouring volcanic
places. Still more numerous also are the shoerls of a shining black ; some of the shape
of needles, and others of prisms, and varying in their size ; some being so small as t^ ' ^e
scarcely visible, and others of the length of seven lines, or above half an inch, and broad
in proportion. These pieces of rock do not form veins, strata, or great masses, but are
distributed indiflferent. places in scattered fragments.
Here likewise we find various pieces of granite, not in the least injured by the fire ;
the qif irtz of which, besides mica, is accompanied by feltspars and shoerls, which in no
respect differ from the volcanic shoerls and feltspars.
I might have considerably extended these remarks on the species of rock thrown out
by the Vesiivian fires without receiving injury or change ; but I think that what I have
said will be sufficient to shew, that, in order to account for the presence of feltspars and
shoerls in lava, and their various crystallizations, it is not necessary to suppose them
formed within it, either when it was fluid, or at the time of its congelation ; since we
meet with similar vitreous bodies in the substances from which it derives its origin.
'.\
:]
as
SPALLANZANl's TRAVELS
.«i
CHAPTER II.
THE GROTTO OF POSILIPO....SOLFATARA....THE PISCIARELLI. *
The city of Naples founded on volcanic 8vibstances....Different opinions relative to the origin of
volcanic tufas... .Those of Posilipo appear to have been formed by thick eruptions....Lavas on
the road to Solfatara described....Specular iron found in one of these.... Solfatarn is not an iso<
latcd mountain, as has been supposed by 8ome....Sulphures of iron (or pyrites) lavas of Solfata*
ra, and the Pisciarelli.... Observations on the decomposition of lava, :>nd the shoerls and feltspars
which are found within it ; as also on the sulphureous-acid fumes which incessantly exhale from
this volcano....Conjecturethat Solfatara has arisen out of the sea....Method lately employed to
extract, more abundantly than formerly, alum and sal ammoniac from this volcano....Critical
disquisition relative to a curious phenomenon in the vicinity of Solfatara, from which M. Fer-
ber conjectures th.it the level of the sea has there sunk nine feet.
DURING my stay at Naples, I determined to visit the other principal Phlegrean
fields, as well as Vesuvius, and I had the good fortune to meet with, and have for a
companion, the abbe Breislak, formerly professor of philosophy at Rome, and of ma-
thematics in the Nazarine College ; and now director of Solfatara, near Pozzuolo.
The beautiful city of Naples is entirely founded on volcanic substances. Among
these the tufa predominates, which has also contributed not a little to the materials of
many buildings. To the north and west it is accumulated in large heaps, and forms
spacious hills. A philosophical stranger, on his arrival in this country, when he views
these immense masses of a substance which must excite in his mind the idea of fire, can-
not but feel astonishment, and inquire with a kind of serious thoughtiulness, what has
been their origin. It is known that on this subject naturalists are divided. Some con-
jecture that the volcanic tufa was generated within the sea when it bathed the foot of the
burning mountains ; others suppose that the cinders ejected by the fire have, in a long
course of years, been hardened into this species of stone by the filtration of rain water ;
lastly, others incline to think that the tuf derives its origin from the slimy and fluid
substances thrown out by the volcanos in &ome of their eruptions.
The diversity of volcanic tufas has perhaps been the cause of these different opinions,
each of which may possibly be true with respect to different kinds of tufa. Those,
however, which are found m the vicinity of Naples are probably the produce of thick
eruption?, as we may conclude from the curious discovery of Sir William Hamilton,
who, in digging up in the tufa which had covered Herculaneum, the head of an ancient
statue, observed that the perfect impression of the head was visible in the tufa, which
cannot be supposed to have happened but by its having enveloped the statue in a liquid
or moist state.
To the observation of Sir William let me be permitted to add one of my own, which
I made in the grotto of Posilipo. It is well known that this grotto has been excavated
within the tufa, and serves as u public road from Naples to Pozzuolo. This tufa, which
is of a clear gray, has for its base an earth in part argillaceous, of a slight hardness,
which contains vitreous flakes, pieces of feltspars and fragments of yellowish pumice-
stone, which by the changes it has undergone has become extremely friable, and almost
reducible to powder. This tufa has been in some measure analysed by the excavation
made in it by art, which furnishes a proof of the nature of its origin. For if any person),
;.);!'
r>r i.i^K
IN THE TWO SICILIKS.
S3
ith
ill the summer time, enters the grotto about the rising of the sun, since at other limes
of the day there is not suffieient light, the solar rays, shining on the entrance which
looks towards Naples, will sufficiently illuminate the roof and sides to shew layt.s f)r
lakes, similar to those which may be observed on the steep sides of mountains, or in
perpendicular sections of the earth, in low pKurs, where sediments of various kinds of
slime have been formed by the inund.itions oFihc rivers. It seems, however, impossible
to doubt that this accumulation of tufa, through the midst of which the Romans opened
that long and spacious grotto, has been produced by the thick eruptions which have
frequently issued from volcanos, and which, heaping up one upon another, have har-
dened in time into this tufaceous stone ; since both Vesuvius and Etna fumisV sufficient
examples of such eruptions. And as in many other tufas in the vicinity I have obser\'-
ed a similar constructure, I cannot suppose their r)rigin to have been different.
Coming out of this subterraneous passage, and proceeding towards Solfatara, I ob-
served, on the right hand side of the road, a ridge of lava, nearly parallel with it, >vhich
had every appearance of having been thrown out of the volcano when burning, both
because it was extremely near to it, and had its highest part in that direction. Its thick-
ness exceeded five-and-thirty feet, and it was situated between two layers of tufa, one
above and the other below. It formed a high rock, perpendicular to one side of the
road. A number of labourers were continually employed in separating pieces of this
lava with pick -axes, or other instruments proper for such work. It is compact, hcav}',
somewhat vitreous, gives sparks with steel, and appeared to me to have for its base the
petrosilex. Incorporated with it are found shocrlsand feltspars. The former are shin-
mg, of a dark violet colour, in shape rectangular needles, vitreous, in length from the
sixth of a line to two lines : it besides contains a considerable quantity of others which
have no regular form. But the feltspars are more conspicuous than the shoerls, both
from their larger size and greater number. They are in general of a flat rhomboidal
form, and consist of an a^regate of smsAl white lamellae, duly transparent, brilliant,
marked with longitudinal streaks parallel to each other, closely adhering together, bui
easily separated by the hammer, giving sparks with steel more readily than the lava ; and,
in the full light of day, exhibiting that changing colour which usually accompanies this
stone. The largest are ten lines long and six broad, and the smallest exceed one line.
The shoerls are also found in the lava, in the same mann.T, and are so fixed in it, that
they occupy nearly the half of it. It is impossible to extricate them entire. They are
distributed within it without any order, and frequently crot» and intersect each other
at right angles.
In some situations of this lava, which are more than others exposed to the inclemency
of the air and seasons, the feltspars are visible on the superficies, by a mixture of emerald
and purple, probably occasioned by the action of the atmosphere, as firom the same cause
some volcanic vitrifications acquire externally their peculiar colour.
This lava has not equal solidity throughout, being in some places porous, or rather
cavernous ; and, in some of its varieties, it was remarkable, that it abounded with spe-
cular iron. This was found in very thin leaves, for the most part, closely connected
together. These are extremely firiable ; and the finger being passed over them, they
adhere to it like particles of mica. But their small size, which in the largest is scarcely
a line, renders it necessary to make use of a lens to examine them properly ; by the aid
of which we shall find that they are of very different shapes, have the lustre of burnished
steel, and that many of them api)ear to be aggregate of small thin scales, closely united.
i: This iron acts on the magnetic needle, at uie distance of two lines. Like many other
irons exposed to the air, it has acquired polarity ; attracting the needle on one side,
and repeUing it on the other.
I
94
si'a4.lanzani's travels
F
When \vc extract these thin scales of iron from the lava, and examine them with the
lens, there frequently appear, intermingled with them, various fragments of microscopic
transparent prisms, which I at first thought to be shoerls of feltspars, but which after-
wards I rather conceived to be zeolites, as they exhibited the appearance *•<" radii diverg-
ing from their centre ; but their extreme minuteness rendered it impossible accurately
to ascertain their species.
Proceeding along the road to Solfatara, we find on the left hand ii natural ridge of
rock, formed of a very light lava, the base of which is horn-stone, of the colour of blue
baked brick, of a coarse earthy grain, which attaches slightly to the tongue, and gives an
argillaceous scent on wetting it, or even merely moistening it with the breath.*
It is very probable that this lava has been decomposed, and that the decomposition
has jjenetrated to the feltspars with which it abounds, as they are become very friable,
though they in general still retain their natural brilliancy.
Having made these cursory observations, I proceeded to Solfatara : nor did I satisfy
•■myself with one visit only, but repeated it several days; being extremely desirous care-
Kiih' to examine, and gain every information relative to a place so celebrated.
From reading the notes of M. Dietrich to M. Ferber's Travels in Italy, I had been ,
induced to imcginc that Solfatara Was a mountain isolated on every side ;t but the truth .
is, it is connected with the other neighbouring mountains, with which it forms an un-
interrupted chain of considenible extent.
It would be tut of little utility for me to describe at length the form, extent, and cir-
cuit of this Phlegrean field ; the various qualities of the hot vapours which exhale from
;t ; or the hollow noise which is heard on striking the ground in various parts of it ;
not that these circumstances were not carefully examined by me ; or that 1 think them
unworthy of my narrative ; but because it appears to me unnecessary to enlarge on
them, as they have been already repeatedly described by a great number of travellers.
It will, in my opinion, be more agreeable to the naturalist to proceed to a minute exa-
mination of the principal productions of this yet unextinguished volcano, as they have
hitherto been, for the most part, either unobserved, or passed over in silence.
In the obscurity p'd uncertainty in which we find ourselves, relative to the causes pro-
ductive of subterraneous conflagrations, the spontaneous inflammation of sulphures of
iron (or pyrites) has been considered as one of the most probable. The well-known
experiment of Leraery, by which a similar conflagration is produced by mixing filings ,
of iron with powdered sulphur properly moistened, has given great support to this opi-
nion. But sulphures of iron, in volcanic countries, are less frequent than has been
supposed. This has been clearly proved by the accurate observations of mineralogists
who have written on them. And though Sir William Hamilton expressly aflirms that
both Etna and Vesuvius abound with them,:}: it is now well known that he mistook the
shoerls for sulphures of iron (or pyrites) from want of mineralogical knowledge. In
fact, Signior Dolomieu, in his Catologo Ragionato de' Prodotti deir Etna, mentions only
one single piece of lava as containing sulphur of iron : and the Chevalier Gioeni, in his
Litologia Vesuviana, has never noticed any such production. In Vulcano and Stromboli, •
two islands which are in a state of actual conflagration, I could trace no vestiges of such ,
■«f ■
* In many lavas the sccntof clay is perceived, on moistening them with the breath, or by othermeans: ;
whenever, therefore, I muy h&reafter mention the argillaceous scent of lava I always understand it to
have been subjected to this humectatlon, though I omit to mention it, to avoid prolixity.
t " La Solfatare reprceente encore aujourd' hui une montagn6 assez elevec ct isolee de tous cotes." '*'
I(.ettres sur la Mineralogie, 8cc. d'ltalie, &c. ,- • . i - -^ vW .. .. , •'
\ Botl) th^se nxountains aboynd with pyrites, Campi Phlegr«i. . > ;'^-!Vfr^%>v,;^ -^ »•«.«<«> jr|^«'#!Mi» '^*
v?v
:3#
IN Till TWO
35
sulphures, as will be remarked in the proper place. As the same kind of substance,
therefore, is found diffused in several parts of Solfutara, I think it well deserves that we
should carefully consider it, and the bodies with which it is found united.
I. The atones which I here undertake to describe are principally found in the interior
sides of Solfatara. The first I shall mention exhibits, both externally and internally, a
number of shining particles, which, when examined by the lens, appear to be small ag-
gregates of sulphur of iron, some crystallized in cubes, others in globes, and others in
irregular figures. When the flame of the blow-piiie is applied to them, they begin to
lose their yellow colour, which quickly, in consequence oftheir destruction, entirely dis>
appears ; when an odour slightly sulphureous is emitted.
This substance is a lava, the base of which is horn-stone ; in part decomposed, light,
friable, granulous, and of a cinereous colour.
II. Tlie small sulphures of iron in this second lava are less numerous, but in their
qualities very analogous to that already described ; except that they are less decom-
posed, and less friable.
III. The appearances exhibited by this lava are two. The external part is extremely
white, and so decomposed, that the slightest blow reduces it to powder ; we likewise
find in it some of the external characters of ordinary clay. It tenaciously adheres to the
inside of the lip ; is soft to the touch, and becomes still more so when slightly moistened.
It absorbs water greedily, and with a kind of hissing noise ; but is not reducible to a
lubricious paste, as clay is. But the internal part of this lava, besides being of a gray
colour, is three-fourths heavier, and in its compactness and its |;tain, approaches to
thai species of calcareous earth, called calcareus aequabilis, though m fact it only resem-
bles it in appearance, not being reduced to calx by fire, nor dissolved by acids. In this
lava the sulphure of iron is not found in cubes, or globes, but in thin lamellae ; and is
dispersed throughout its whole substance, especially m certain parts, where the colour of
the stone inclines to black, and lias a greater consistency. No sign of this mineral ap-
pears in the white decompounded lava, probably because it was destroyed gradually, in
proportion as the decomposition took place.
IV. This lava is much heavier than the three preceding ; which, no doubt, arises
from the greater abundance of sulphure of iron that it contams. The shining particles
of this mineral are principally to be seen in the vacuities (of which, however, it has not
many.) They are polyhedrons, but the number of their faces is not constant. When
exposed to the fire it loses its brassy colour, bums with a thin blue flame, and emits a
strong smell of sulphur. The lava which contains it, and which is of a livid gray co-
lour, is, in some situations, so soft that it muy be scratched with the nail, but in others
much harder, and some of it will give sparks with steel. In this lava, the base of which
appeared to me to be horn-stone, we find crystallized feltspars, but decomposed, though
less so than the lava in which they arc inclosed.
V. Around the extensive plain of Solfatara, we observe in several places a circular
ridge of steep rocks, which once formed the upper sides of this enormous crater. The
rain-water, descending this declivity, over the decomposed lava, carries down with it the
more^ minute parts to the lower grounds, where various concretions are produced,
especially those stalactites which are commonly called oolithes, or pisolithes. But of these
stalactites we 'ihall speak hereafter. Here we shall only notice, that this water in its de-
scent carries down with it small pieces of decomposed lava, and that in some places
many of these pieces are found united, and bound together by a crust of sulphure of
iron. It is black where it b exposed to the immediate action of the air, but in the fiac-
tures of a shining a[^>earance» though the colour inclines more to a lead qolo^r th^ to
VOL. V. E
\
!'!l
20
SPALLANZAhfI*S TRAVELS
! .]•
yellow. Its structure is sctilv. The sulphures of iron which have before been men •
tioncd give fire with steel ; but this does not, from want of sufficient linrdness. It^
abounds with sulphur ; since, being exposed to the flame of the blow-pine, it visibly
melts, and, the activity of the fire being increased, a bine flame arises, which continues
till the crust is consumed, nothing remaining but a very sma!' quantity of a white pul-
verous earth, which is no other than a portion of decomposed lava, that had been united
with this sulphur.
With this sulphur, the presence of which is extremely manifest from its strong smell
is also united arsenic ; as sufficiently appears from the white fumes which arise from the
combustion of the sulphurc of iron, and which emit a very sensible odour of garlic.
These are the volcanic matters which, at Solfatara, aboundmore or less with sulphures
of iron. But whence is their origin ? It is well known they are formed by the combi-
nation of sulphur with iron. With the former this volcano abounds, whence it ob-
tained the name of Solfatara ; and as the latter is almost alwavs found mixed with vol-
canic productions, which commonly derive from it their vairing colours, we have thus
the two proximate principles of culphure of iron. But is their commendation effected by
the dry, or, as is more probable, by the humid way ? I find it difficult to conceive how
it can take place by the first method, on account of the speedy dissipation of the sulphur
sublimed by fire, which must prevent its uniting with the iron to iorm these sulphures.
It appears to me more probable that they have been formed by the action of water,
which having penetrated the lava, the sulphur, dissolving in the fluid, has combined with
the iron. But as such solutions of sulphur in water seldom take place, as Bergman has
observed, we rarely find sulphures of iron in volcanized countries, notwithstanding tlie
existence of these two minerals.
But let us continue the description of the productions of this celebrated place, the
greater part of which are decomposed lavas ; though this decomposition, notwithstand-
ing it has been noticed by several writers, has not, to my knowledge, been examined by
any one \vith requisite care and attention.
VI. This lava is coloured on the upper part with a covering of yellow oxyde of iron,
, under whieh is a white decomposed stratum, to which corresponds another lower one
of a cinereous colour, where the lava is much less changed. These two strata form a
very strong contrast. The white may be cut with a knife, in some places more easily
and in some less ; adheres to the ton^e, does not give sparks with steel, feels soft to
the wet finger passed over it, has considerable lightness, and being struck with a hammer
gives a dull sound, like earth moderately hardened. On the contrary, the cinereous
, stratum sounds, when struck with a hammer, like a hard stone, of which it also has the
'' weight ; is rough to the touch, scarcely at all adheres to the tongue, gives fire with steel,
and cannot be cut with the knife. The white stratum in some places is an inch thick,
n others more, but there are likewise places where it is only a few lines in thickness.
white stratum in general changes insensibly into the cinereous, but in some places
'reparation is sudden and abrupt.
'A kc feltspars in this lava (for of these it is full) are prisms, the largest of which arc
ten lines in length, and the smallest the sixth of a line. In the cinereous stratum, not-
/f withstanding a beginning decomposition may be perceived, the feltspars are unimpaired.
* ' On the contrary, in the more decomposed stratum, I mean the white, their decomposi-
., tion is very apparent; they have all lost their transparency, though many of them still
^"'retain their splendour. Others have acquired a resemblance to a sulphate of lime that
ha& remained some time in the fire ; to which they might likewise be compared in soft-
'^ ness, had they a little less consistence. Some of them are infixed in tfai^ part of the
•If
rN THE TWO SICILIES.
27
lava, the colour of which is between the cinereous and wliitc, and here we find them less
changed than in the stratum which is entirely white. Others have one part of thim in
the white, and the other in the cinereous stratum ; in which case we find the part fixed
in the latter stratum to have suftercd nothing, but that in the former considerably. In
short, from the inspection of this lava it is manifest, that, in proportion as the nature of
it is changed, the ieltspars it contains undergo a change, except when the principle pro-
ducing the alteration is unable to aflect them. Besides these feltspars, we find, incor-
porated with the lava, a number of very small and almost invisible black shocrls, which
are not distinguishable where the lava is white ; less, perhaps, because they do not exist,
than because they have lost their colour in consequence of the decomposition.
This lava, which is of a margaeeous base, does not liquify in the furnace, when its
decomposition is considerable, but other parts of it, whicli have been less decomposed,
are reduced to a kind of frit.
VII. Solfatara, perhaps, does not afford a lava more compact, hard, heavy, or of finer
grain than this. Its composition is siliceous, its colour gray, it gives sparks strongly
with steel, and, at the distance of two lines, attracts the magnetic needle. Its base is of
tlie pctrosilex, and it contiuns within it different feltspars and shoerls ; but some of the
latter have been melted by the fire, as appears from the bubbles or speckles occasioned
by the liquefaction. This lava is covered with a very white crust, nearly an inch thick,
producecl by the decomposition it has undergone. The effects of the furnace on this
lava are nearly the same with those on the lava No. VI.
VIII. This lava is entirely decomposed. On the surface, and for some depth, it is
white, and almost pulverous ; but in the internal part the white colour changes into a
reddish blue, and acquires a degree of hardness, though not too great to be cut with u
knife. The feltspars, in which it abounds, have suf&red different degrees of decom-
position. Some of tliem, besides being calcined, attach strongly to thjc tongue. Others,
when viewed with a common lens, appear full of filaments, but when examined with a
pdeeper magnifier, these filaments appear to be no other than extremely thin, striated, and
■ .X'ery friable laminae. This production is infusible in the furnace.
IX. The feltspars in this lava occupy more than one third of its mass. They are in
shape flat prisms, and, except having somewhat less hardness, retain all the qualities
which characterise the species of stone to which they belong. There are also a number
of shoerls, which, from their extreme minuteness, appear like points, but are easily dis-
tinguishable, by their black colour firom the lava, which is whitish, and has greater con-
sistence than that of No. VIII. It is likewise heavier; to which the quantity of felt-
spars but little changed, which it contains, undoubtedly contributes.
X. The shoerls which make so great a part of the other kinds of lava, are found so
strongly adherent to them, that we usually can only separate them in fragments. The
present lava, in this respect, offers an exception which may be considered as recommen-
datory of it. It has acquired so great a degree of softness by its decomposition, that the
numerous shoerls it contains may be detached from it entire. They are hexagonal
prisms, truncated i>erpendicular to their axes, the faces of which are slightly striated
lengthwise, and their colour is a yellowish black.
In this lava, the base of which appeared to me of horn-stone, another more remark-
able peculiarity presents itself. On breaking it, the fractures discover a number of small
' caverns, jewelled, if I may employ the term, with a multitude of extremely minute
shoerls, of different colours, some green, some yellow, others of a dark chesnut, but
all similar, being hexagonal prisms, with rhomboidal faces, and eaqh terminating in a
. dihedrous pjrntmid. Their angles are regular, their faces shining, and in part trans.
> »
SrALLANZAKl'S TRAVELS
^
' • i
1/
'A
K
m
■ M-
« a.
-iro
1>arent. They sometimes form gcodes in the body of the lava. To examine them a
ens is necessary, and a good magniffer, clearly to perceive other shoeris still more minute.
These are infixed in the small cavities I before mentioned, and, though they are extend-
ed to a considerable length in front of the others before described, are so minute and
numerous, that a single cavity will contain u hundred of them. Every one of both
these kinds of shoeris has one extremity fixed in the lava, and the other in the air, and all
together appear like a wood in miniature. I was, at first, in doubt whether I should
consider them as shoeris or volcanic glass, as more than one instance has been known
of such glass reduced to a capillary minuteness within lava. But the latter appeared to
iiiC improbable, because, after all the observations that have hitherto been made, we are
not yet certain that any volcanic glass has been found crystallized ; for, with respect to
the pretended crystallization of some glasses in Iceland, we have not facts which demon-
strate it incontrovertibly. On the other hand, the minute corpuscles I have described,
if not all, at least those which from their larger size are more discernible by the eye, have
a prismatic figure, and analogy must induce us to conclude the same of the rest.
I incline to believe these infinitesimal crystallizations produced, aAer the cooling of
the lava, within the cavity in which they are found, from extremely subtle shoeriaceous
sediments, by the filtration of water. But we shall have occasion to speak of similar ad-
ventitious crystallizations within the substance of lava, in another part of this work.
XI. The oolithes, mentioned in No. V, lie in certain small channels of Solfotara,
through which the water runs when it rains. They are either round, or somewhat flat-
tened i rather more than half an inch in diameter, white as snow, extremely light, easily
crumbled, and convertible into an almost impalpable powder. They adhere strongly to
the tongue, and are composed of a number of thin scales. The formation, therefore, of
this volcanic stalactites does not diifer from that of the other species.
It would be superfluous to speak here of the sulphate of lime, adhering to some kinds
of lava, or of the sulphate of iron, and the oxyde of red sulphurate arsenic, as these pro-
ducti'^ns of Solfatara have already beai sufliciently examined and described by others,Q
and I have no particular observations concering them which merit to be mentioned.
XII. It is not uncommon to find at Solfatara pumices of various species ; and it is
more probable that they have been thrown out of this volcano than from any of the
others. We do not find them in great masses, as in other places, but in detached pieces
and fragments. I shall only remark one particular relative to them, as it ap[)cars to me
that in every other respec* they perfectly resemble those already known. We now
know that pumice is only a glass which Avants but little of being ^^erfect ; and seems to
require only a degree more of heat to become such. The transition from glass less per-
fect to perfect, may be perceived in some of these pumices in a very evident manner.
Iii/some places their texture is fibrous, and the fibres are vitreous ; but without that
degree of transparency, which are inseparable from volcanic glasses. But following them
tvith the eye, we perceive them consolidate, here and there, into masses of various sizes,
whicL resemble a shining and smooth varnish, but are in fact perfect glass, as will suf-
ficiendy appear, if they be detached from the pumice, and examined separately. These
are sufficiently hard to give sparks with steel, a property observable in every volcanic
glass.
Having now described the principal productions of the interior part of Solfatara, I
shall proceed to make a few observations on some which are found in its exterior ; in
that part which is next to the Pisciarelli, so called from the warm bubbling water,
which usues, with some noise, from the bottom of a little hill contiguous to this vokano,
and which has been long celebrated for its medicinal virtues. I coUcjpted here i^)eci-
*«!«:\i
Ill TKI TWO tICILIIS.
of
Ui^
f
«■« ' •
•<■>■»<
mens of five kinds of lava ; but, as in their gcncnil qualities they are analogous to thoM
alrcudv described, I shall onl|r mention them in a cursory manner.
XIII. The first specimen is a simple or homogeneous lava, in which, notwithstanding
the most careful examination, I could not discover either shoerls, feltsnars, or any ex.
traneous body. In other res|)ects, like those before mentioned, it is uecomposed, ud*
hercs to the tongue, is friable, but without crumbling under the finger : its whiteness
extends through its whole mass, and wliercver it is broken has the taste of sulphate of
alumine (or alum.)
XIV. The second specimen, through nearly the half of it, exhibits a similar decom-
position, and is of a white colour ; but the other half, which is of a lead colour, has suf-
fered little, gives sparks strongly wiUi steel, and moves the magnetic needle at two lines
distance. 1 nis lava has for its base the petrosUex. Both that part of it which is slightly
decomposed, and the other which is more so, contain rhomboidal fcltspars, of which the
largest are about an inch in length. Their alteration is scarcely visible where the lava
b least changed; and where it is more they exfoliate with some facility, but retain a
considerable degree of their natural hardness and splendour.
XV. The third specimen is a lava of a dark Kray colour, siliceous where fractured,
very compact, and which gives sparks with steel. It is of a pctrosiliceous base, and
contains abundance of feltspars and shoerls. But to shew these, it is necessary to divest
it of a thick, whitish, and half-pulverous crust, produced by its decomposition. In this
crust the shoerls and feltspars retain some consistence, but have lost, in a great degree,
their lustre.
XVI. The fourth specimen contains within it a nucleus of a deep red colour, of the
hardness and appearance of the carbonates of lime (calcareous earth) of a fine grain,
but which is not dissolved or affected by acids, nor yields sparks with steel. It attracts
the magnetic needle at the distance of one line. It contains a number of fissures,
through which has {lenetrated, together with water, a quartzous matter, which has con.
solidated into a semi-transparent, and somewhat rough covering. In this lava, which
is but little decomposed, are found, dispersed, a number of snuJl masses of sulphure of
iron.
XVII. Small shoerls, and large crystallized feltspars, occupy the substance of this
last lava, which is somewhat porous, but sufficiently nard to give sparks with steel.
It is covered with a whitish yellow crust, which flakes off with a knife, and a reddish
tincture has penetrated to its internal part, which is of a blackish ground.
In these lavas ofPisciarelli, the decomposition has, likewise, been much more con-
•iderable, than in the feltspars and shoerls which they contain within them.
. I do not pretend to be certain that I have enumerated all the s^Kcies of lava to be
found at Solfatara : it is possible there may be others unobserved by me. I am persuaded,
however, that I have described the principal ; and such as enable me to deduce from
their qualities the following conclusions.
I. Almost all the species of lava, hitherto described, are more or less decomposed, and
this decomposition is usually accompanied with a proportionable denree of whiteness.
. This observation has been made by several authors; and first by Sir William Hamil.
ton, and M. Ferber, who have endeavoured to account for the fact by a very plausible
reason, which is, that the sulphureous acid vapours which issue from Solfatara, and
must have been produced in an infinitely greater quantity when the conflagratioii was
at its height, penetrating the lava by degrees, have insensibly softened it, and given it a
white colour. And, in fact, similar changes are observed to take place in a piece of
black lava, exposed for a sufficient time to tiw fumes of burning sulphiur. But it does not
30
UrAtLANZANll TRAVCLI
licncc fuUuw that thiit luva will be c])aii(rc(l into an argillaceous bubstAncc, at the uijuve
mentioned Swedish philosopher would nave iih believe ; since, from a chcnticnl analysis,
it iipnc-urs that an earth of tliut kind, combined with other principles, pre-existed in it,
nnd has only been rendered manifest by the diminution of aggregation produced by the
lK'forc>mentioned vapours.
It is likewise not strictly true that the walls, or inclosing sides, of Solfutani arc every
vhere white and decomposed, us we might infer from the description of M. Ferber.
Those which look toward the south, nidced are so, but not those which are situated in
another direction, and especially those which front the north, which ore of a blackish co«
lour, and little, or not at all, decomposed. The abbe Breislak, director of Solfutura, u ho
accompanied mc when I made my observations, suggested a very probable reason for
this diversity of amxrarance in the different sides, observing that the sulphureous acid is
less |x>wcrful to eikct the decomposition of lava, and requirce longer time, when the lava
has considerable humidity ; which humidity must be much lesson the southern side,
where the heat of the sun is greatest. In fact, he exposed a piece of solid lava, to a very
humid sulphureous exhalation, at Solfatara, during two months, withoui producing in it
the least decomposition.
II. The observations I have made convince me that the alterations here described al«
ways take place in the upi>cr part of the lava ; and that, in pro|>ortion as we penetrate
downwards into it, they become gradually less, and, at a certain depth, entirely cease.
This, at first view, does not np^xrar to accord with the cRcct of sulphureous vapours,
which, rising from the bottom of Solfatara, and passing through the lava, might be ex*
pected to cause a greater cliange in the lower \yana than the nigher, from their having
there greater heat, and consequently being more active. But we must consider that
this may indeed be the nature of their action, where the lava is spongy, or at least very
porous, but not where it is compact, and almost im|)enetrablc to such vapours, as is
that of Solfatara. And, in fact, we find that the sulphureous fumes which arise there
do not issue from the body of the lava, but always from fissures or apertures in it, or the
subjacent tufa. These impediments, therefore, prevent them from acting except on the
surface, when issuing forth they are driven over it by the wind, and penetrating the lava,
in a long course of time, produce the changes in question. VVe meet with few decom-
posed lavas, within whicn we do not find fragments of sulphur adherent, condensed
there by the acids above mentioned, and which are of the mf» kin4wi\h tlmt produced
insuch abundance in Solfatara. •; i ,,.> fj^ :,. r, . .««i>#4. ,-,.>, «,*';>«*;! tr-ii. /-ittiL
But what productive cause shall we assign for those sulphureous vapours, the slow
destroyers of the lava, which continually issue from a number of fissures in Solfatara,
in the form of hot white fumes ? I can conceive no principle to which they can with
greater probability be ascribed than those sulphurs of iron (pyrites) which abound at
tne bottom of the volcano, and decomposing, m conseouencc of a mixture with the sub-
terraneous waters, slowly inflame, and produce those hot sulphureous vapours, which
evidently prove that the subterraneous conflagration is not entirely extinguished. The
noisy effervescence, likewise, which in more than one place is heard under the plain of
Solfatara, seems to give a certain indication of the decomposition of these sulphurs.
The streams of vapour which arise from Solfatara, according to Fathet'* Delia Torre,
in ttie night appear like flame. No person can be more competent to ascertain the trutli
of this fact than the abbe Breislak, who resides near the place, and who, when I ques>
ti^pcjdl hjJQVQn U^e subject, ussiu^d^me th^t he had never ^obseryed. any i^ucb QjmevancCf
ft;:.' fj:£Vinr,^{u
r li^to iWtf r^'0>. Jti"'A{SI««i.«tifX.ira '
^toria del Vcsuviv.
k:«.;*:iU{ hili dn-« hafibucc
IN THI TWO IICILIIf.
31
M^-
It lit, however, not impossible but that, at the time he observed them, thry might have
undergone some change.
The vapours which nriw from the ground of the Piscinrelli arc very few, and nlinont
inneUHible, though fornu-rly they mtmt have Ixcn iiumerou*! and strong, an may be in-
ferred '"tiin the great decomponilion an<l whitenesH of the hivnH found there. I have
already mentioned the noinc with whieh the npringsthat Ix'nr this name burst from the
earth. They reM-mbIc a boiling cnldron. Tlic reaHons asnigncd for thin nlienonienon,
by different authors, are various, but, hitherto, all conjccturul. On applying the ear
to the place where the spring issues, we may [)erceive tnut the bubbling noise does not
proceed from ony great depth, but from a small distance from the surface of the earth.
NfVerc the grotmd here to be dug into, we might, perhaps, be able to discover this se-
cret, the knowledge of which might prove advantageous to volcanic restarehes. My
want of time, and other causes, did not permit me to make the exix.*riment myself when
I was Ht Naples ; but I entertain a hope that what I have said may induce some of the
lovers of natural knowledge in that city to engage in that undertaking, which I incline
to think will not be found useless.
III. We have seen that almost all the lavas of Solfiitara contain within them shoerln
and feltspars. But it has been proved that the changes occasioned in both the latter,
by the action of sulphureous acias, are considerably less than those which take place in
the lavas their matrices ; which difference must arise from the nature of these two stones,
which is less liable to extrinsic injuries. We find them, in fact, firmly resist the nowcr
of the humid elements. To the south of Vesuvius, and at a little distance from Salva-
tore, I have found several pieces of very acient lava, porous, and half-consumed by
time, which, howev:r, preserved unaltered their black crystallised shoerls.
It has been observed that the houses of Pompeii, long smce overwhelmed by Vesuvius,
and now in part dug into and cleared, are found to have been built of lava. I have
ascertained tnis fact on the spot. They are of a reddish colour, very dry to the touch,
and some of them will crumble under the finger, evident proofs of the change they
have undergone ; but no such alteration has taken place in the shoerls they contain ;
thcv still retain the hardness and glassy splendour which is appropriate to that stone.
We likewise know that the feltspars are indestructible by the air, as appears in the
porphyries of which they are a part.
IV. I have already remaked that the lavas of Solfatara usually have for their basis the
petrosilex and the horn- stone. I shall add that I have also met with the granite in them,
though not in a large mass, but in small detached pieces, which induced me to doubt
whether they properlv belong to this volcano ; ami as they likewise appeared to me un-
touched bv the fire, f rather incluied to believe them adventitious. Tnis granite consists
of two substances, quartz and shoerl. 'n'*^^ ■•'^ r.Yp^jir.Vfv. /» r '?♦
But another production must not be forgotten, which forms large heaps 'on one side
of the internal crater of this volcano. This is an ash-coloured tufa, of a middling con-
sistence, in strata of various thickness, with the superficies of each stratum covered with
a black cnist, in which may be discovered manifest vestiges of plants. The abbe
Breislak, who first observed this tufii, after having shewn it me on the spot, gave mc
some oftheaeimiN-essions of plants to examine, comecturing them to be some species
of the algairiarina, or sea- weed. While I was at Nq>les, I had not sufficient time to
make an accurate examination <^ them ; but this I afterwunlb made at Pavia, from seve-
ral specimens of the same tufiu Some parts exhibited only the impressions of plants,
but m others I found real leaves. They are striated, with striie nmning lengthwise, and
when touched with the point of a needle, easiljr break, and 4>pear converted into a
i
M
IPAtLANIANft TRAVILI
• i3
cnrl)onnceoiit tubMance. At flrst I douhtcd whether thry were plants of the alga ; but
oil cxitniiiiiog them MK^iiii, cnrcl'ully with u Ichm, iiikI comimriiif^ titc ktvei fgunU in
the tufu with those or the nutural uign, I wis fully convinced they were, f''"-" '' » ^* "' •'^'
Tliii* obitcrvulion uppcured, both to me and the ubbe Brciftlak, to be of conslcterahtf
im|K)rtunce ; since we may conclude from it, that purt of Sollataru which is formed by
this tufa, has once made a nurt of the bottom of the sea, and been thrown ud by the
action of submurine fires. Nor is it improbable that the rest of it has hud the same
origin, and that all the sulxttunt^eH of this voUaiio have insticd from the waters of the
sea. Such wc know to have Ik-co the origin of many other mountains, either now actu*
ally burning, or which have ceased to bum. *
It is well known that for a long time alum and sal-ammoniac have been extracted from
this half extingtiished volcano. The method employed for each was as follows. In
the nrocess for tlie alum, certain s<|uare places were cleared out in the plain of Solfatara,
in which it effloresced, and the efflorescences were swept together, and from them, by
methods well known, the salt was collected nurified. The Mii-sr«^moniac was obtained
by placing a number of pieces of tile round tne apertures from which that salt issued, in
the form of a subtle vapour, upon which the vapour was condensed. A description of
these two methods is to be found in almost all the authors who have written on Solfa>
tara ; some of whom, with reason, censure them as imperfect, and consequently not likely
to produce the profit which might be obtaimd.
But we may now hope that both these manufactures may become objects of importance
under the direction of the abbe Breisluk, and the liberal patronage of Baron Don Giu-
seppe Brentano, who has taken this celebrated Phlegrean field at a constant rent. The
able, procredtnff on the principle that the quantity of alum procured fr(»n Solfatara
must be proportionate to the area of the space on which iteffloresees, instead of the nar-
row squares formerly appropriated to this purpose, and called gardens, has greatly ex.
tended the spaces allotted : and that the prepai^tion of this salt moy not be prevented
by the rain-wat^r draining into the bottom rrom the steep sides of the volcano, he has
surrounded them with small ditches, with deep wells at intervals which receive the water,
and where it is soon absorbed by the spongy earth. In the lower part of these sides he
has likewise opened a number of cavities equally proper to furnish alum.
The same principle appears to have guided the abbe in h'^s attempts to increase the
quantity produced of sal-ammoniac, by making use of long nrd capacious tubes of earth,
open at both extremities, and baked in the furnace. Tht:si>? .*eceive at their lower ends
the vapours abounding with this salt, which attaches itself to their inner sides, and forms
there a crust that in time increases to a considerable thickness. I have seen with pleasure
at Naples the effects of these two methods ; and it is expected they will be still more
productive, when some alterations suggested by persona well acqufiinted with this busi-
ness have been made. y.»'f«irf'-ii'.7 ■■I'l'Jir'T-.'^ ■ ''P^'M''.fff*'fn*^ '»!» mv'?«:^1-'. .«v»f>\»'^^."'*" •
Formerly sulphur was extracted from the crater of thu volcano ; but the small
quantity of it, and the low price of the oommodity, have caused this labour to be
abandoned.
Descending from Solfatara, a little above the level of the sea, and near to Pozzuolo,
we meet with the ruins of a temple, supposed to have been dedicated to Serapis, and in
modem times freed from aislimy eruouon under which it was buried. This edifice may
at once gratify the admirer of the imitative arts by its arohiteoture, and the curiosity of
the naturalist. Among the rarts which still itjmain entire, are three beautiful columns
of that species of white Grecian marble, usually called cipoUino. Tliey are erect, but at
the height of about n^ie feet fiom^th^^ ground, each «oluin9 begins to appear worn ;
ft
, t.
ri
J Ml
I
.-If'
t-ii
»
■ m
>
, A:
on*
hrt
■ > JiJu
J? J ..
■»' u/.
> -ii
-,-.'^,
tH THE TVrO 8ICIIIII.
33
..< •
'•i. ' < > '
on*
and thin wearing extending round the colunrtn, formx a horizontal hand or nilrf, which
la rough and unequal, about two feet in breadth, while the rrmaiiidcr o( the column U
imoothftnd polinhcd. Thin band iti in every |Mirt bored ity the mnrine animalcule called
mytiluslithophaguB by Liniucus, und in aonic of tlu; iierrorutiona the shells ure »till to be
found, either entire or in frugmenta.
But besides this H|>ccieH, which is well known to Conchiologists, I have discovered
another, which I had l)efurc found, in a living ntatr, in Nome xulMiqiicnus marbles in the
lake of Venice, an uccunite description of which I shall reserve for another work. Several
of the shells of this mytilus, which is smaller than the other, arc to be found in the per-
forations of this part of the column. In fact, on examining with attention besides the
holes made by the two species of mytili already mentioned, I found many others, ex-
tremely small ones, which all who are acquainted with the different species of marine
animalcula, will know to be the work of other lithophagous worms. I must likewise
add that I have found among them some serpules, and particularly the contortuplicata,
and tlic triquctra of Linnseus. These arc the marine animalcula which have eaten into
the three columns near the middle of the shaft, producing that circle of inequalities and
roughness, except which there is no vestige of these animals.
On the plain of the Temple arc found several other fragments of columns, some of
the same cipollino marble with the former, and others of African marble ; which frag«
mcnta have likewise bands or fillets of inequalities and roughness similar to those before
described, above and below which the marble is perfectly smooth, and still retains the
polish it originally received from the hand of the artist.
On the same plain we see scattered several columns of ^nite which appeared to me
to be oriental ; the component parts of which ure black mica with large flakes, which is
very abundant, a large proix>rtion of feltspar and quartz. But these columns have not
been touched by the corroding wcrr •, ; nor was it to be expected that they should, as
it apt)ear8, from a variety of instances, that they only attack calcareous stone.
M. Ferbcr, in his letters before cited, mentions this appearance in the columns ; but
he only notices the mytilus lithophagus, which he calls the pholas or dactylus. But the
cavities in which these pholadcs huvc lodged lieing nine feet high above the present level
of the sea, he infers that the sea has sunk nine feet, supporting this inference by the ob.
servation ** that the pholadcs always reside in rocks level with the &urfuce of the water,
and never are found near die bottom."
But this is an assumption contrary to fact, as I shall easily prove. The pholadcs in
these columns, which, according to Linnseus and other systematic naturalists, belong to
the genus of the mytili, I have very frequently found in the Gulf of Spezia at Genoa,
and in its environs, within the port itself of thut city, in several places in the sea of Istria,
and other parts of the Adriatic, and likewise in the Meditcmmean. But in all these
places I have found them in subaqueous rocks, never or scarcely ever level with the
surface of die water ; and frequently I have procured diem to be fished up from the
bottom of the sea at the depth of ten or twelve feet, by the means of long and stout
forceps, which drew up large pieces of the rock in which they were contained in a living
state. I have also in my possession )M.'veral of these pholadcs, or more properly speaking
mytili, infixed within the hard shells of very large oysters fished up in iny presence from
the depth of one hundred and forty-two feet. But in these columns we tind not onlv
the remains of myUli, but of serpules and of other very small lithophagous worms whicn
arc found in the sea at every depth. As therefore the supposition of Ferber, that the
pholadcs or mytili always reside at the surface of the water only is contrary to fact, his
deduction that the level of the sea has sunk nine feet since the time of the corroding of
'-"I.
VOL. V.
34
SPALLANZANl'S TRAVELS
these columns, must Hliewisc evidently be erroneous. All that we can with certainty
affirm is, that the circle or fillet which has been the habitation of these marine worms,
has been covered by the sea for a long series of years ; as may be inferred from the re-
mains of these animals found in the cells they have sunk, which shew that they had attained
their jierfect size, to complete which they require nearly half a century, as I could prove
by incontestible facts, did I not fear it wouMlead me too far from my subject. ' '"'
It may perhaps be objected, that it must appear extiaordinary that these columns
which are now in an erect position, should have been so long washed bv the sea-water in
that circle only, while the pr.rt of the shaft below it remained untouched. Yet might
they not, before they were employed in the fabric of which they made a part, have been
buried in the sea in such a manner that this circle alone, which is now rich with marine
spoils, might be accessible to the water ?^ But though this hypothesis should not ap-
pear satisfactory, and I have no other to offer, I shall content myself with stating the
facts of which I have knowledge, without feeling any great solicitude that I am not able
to explain them.
CHAPTER III.
THE GROTTA DEL CANE. ;<.>;.:;.
Errort. of Ferber relative to this celebrated grotto....Experiments of the Author and abbe fireis-
lak, relative to the mortiferous vapour.... Description of the grotto....Conjecture that the v<)pour
was anciently more extensive.. .Its mean height....Its heat greater than that of the atmospht re....
Consiists of carbonic-acid gas, mixed with atmuspheric air and azotic ga8....Thi8 carbon:;, acid,
according to the abbe Breisink, is the produce of the carbure of iron contained in volcanic sub-
stances, and combined with oxygcne....The mephitic vapour exhibits no signs of magnetism or
electricity....Phenomena which accompanied the burning of several substances placed within the
vapour.. ..Reitmrks of the author on the experiments of the abbe Breislak, and his conjectures
on the origin of this carbonic acid.
HAVING visited Solfatara and the surrounding rocks, continuing my journey to the
west, I soon arrived at the Grotta del Cane. There is no person conversant with litera-
ture who does not know that this name has been given to a small cavern between Na-
ples and Pozzuolo, because if a dog be brought into it, and his nose held to the ground,
he soon begins to breathe with difficulty, and loses all sense, and even life if he be not
speedily removed into the open and purer air. This grotto, though so celebrated both
in ancient and modern times, in fact shares its fame with sevenil other places which are
endowed with the same deleterious quality ; as it is only one of the almost innumerable
pestiferous vapours in different parts of the world, especially in volcanic countries, which
are quickly fatal both to brute animals and man, though they do not offer to the eye
the slightest indication of their presence. They have beer, mentioned by a numerous
list of writers, whom I might cite, were I disposed to maV^ an unseasonable parade of my
readirgj. It is to be remarked that the greater part of these vapours are only tempo-
rary, whei-eas that of the Grotta del Cane is perpetual, and seems to have produced its
deadly effects in the time of Pliny. A man standing erect suffers nothing from it, as the
mephitic vapour rises only to a small height from the ground : I therefore entered it
without danger ; but notwithstanding the most attentive observation I could make, I
cculd not perceive the smallest visible exhalation. , / i^ ;
* They may have originally belonged to an edifice in a dutant country, overwhelmed by the tea. f:
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
35
li certainty
tie worms,
rom the rc-
lad attuned
lould prove
;ct.
ic columns
tea- water in
Yet might
;, have been
vith marine
luM not ap-
stating the
am not able
d abbe Breift-
latthe vipour
itmospht re..»
carbor/:;. acid,
volcanic sub-
magnetism or
ced within the
is conjectures
oumey to the
it with litera-
aetween Na-
the ground,
if* he be not
ebrated both
es which are
innumemble
ntries, which
tr to the eye
a numerous
parade of my
only tempo-
produced its
rom it, as the
>re entered it
)uld make, I
id by the tea.
" It therefore appeared to me that M. Ferocr must have been mistaken, when he says,
" the killing damps rise from the ground about a palm above tlie floor, move along it as
a white smoke, and spread through the door in the open air."* But as it has already
been observed nat the staoke of a torch extinguished in the vapour sink; downwards,
assumes a whitish colour, and goes out at the bottom of the door ; it appears probable
that this occasioned his mist;ike, especially as he mentions the experiment of the extin-
guished torch in the same place.
As little can I agree with him that the mischievous effects of this vapour are the con-
sequence of the air being deprived of its elasticity ;t since it has been demonstrated
that they are to be attributed to the carbonic-acid gas ; as was first proved b" is learn-
ed countryman, M. Adolphus Murray. As we know likewise, that a canule jcing ex-
tinguished in this gas, the fumes which proceed from it mix more readily with the gas
than with the atmospheric air ; we perceive why the smoke of a torch that ceases to burn
in the Grotta del Cane sinks where the pestiferous vapour is strongest, and passing along
the ground, goes out at the lower part of the door.
Tne person who is the keeper or guide ut the grotto, and who shews to strangers the
experiment of the dog for a gratuity, when the animal is panting and half d id, takes
him into the open air, and afterwards throws him into the neighbouring lake of Agna-
no ; insinuating that this short immersion into the ^vater is necessary completely to re-
store him. M. Ferber relates this fact, and shews that he believed all that was told
him concerning it. The truth however is, that the plunging the dog into the lake is a
mere trick to render the experiment more specious, and obtain money from the credu-
lous, as the atmospheric air alone is sufficient to restore the animal to life.
The experiments made by M. Murray, to ascertain the nature of this mephitic va-
pour, have discovered to us what was before unknown, and we owe to him every grate*
ful acknowledgment. They have not however explained every thing we could wish
to learn relative to this cavern. Whenever is versed in the knowledge of nature, and
acquainted in any degree with tlie difficult art of making experiments, must be con-
vinced what a number of these might be made in it, which would greatly tend to throw
new light on physiology and physics. I conceived a strong desire to attempt several,
and communicated my intention to the abbe Breislak, who accompanied me to the
Grotta del Cane. We agreed to divide them oetween us, that I should apply myself
ic the physiological, or those which had for their object living beings, and he bestowed
his attention on th6 physical. As I was on the point of setting out for Sicily, I resolv-
ed to cat. y this plan into execution on my return to Naples. But Mount Etna and the
Lipari isles detained me a long time ; and when I returned I had scarcely time to vbit
Vesuvius, being obliged to repair almost immediately to Padua, to begin my public
lectures in Natural History. My fnend the abbe, however, who reddes constantly near
Solfatara, in consequence of his superintendance of the works there, proceeded afler my
departure to fulfil me task I had assigned hhn, and communicated to me the result of his
experiments in a letter, which with his consent I here publish, as I am convinced that
it will be highly gratifying to my readers.
^'RESPEexABLE Friej»d, H^i^il t'^jv**^ i*;r J^apiet, JVov, 20t 1790,
" WHEN you visited this city two years ago, to make observations on the Phlegreui
fields, you did me the honour to propose to me to assist you in making a regular series
,* F«rber's Travels through Italy, p. 146 of the English translation t^iw^^ri^f rt*** ywr* ■«*• !fy?
t Ferber's Travels.
r 2
'»>
■1'
36
SPALLANZANI'S TRAVELS
f . ("
^..'ii"
>r»
■•■
;■"
'•!',
t, :
'■ li
■J ■•
,.,■>
■. :■>
, -i
"1 A*"
V
1 '
';' !
T. !
?>'..■■•
««4,
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•■■
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Ulft.
V
\y
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■•♦,1
vi. ■
of experiments on tlie celebrated mephitic vapour of the Grotta del Cane. You may
remember that we agreed to divide between us the objects to be examined. You pro-
posed to inquire in what manner the exhalation acts on the animal oeconomy, so as first
to suspend its functions, and at last totally destroy them, unless the means of restoration
are speedily applied. This problem, though considered by many, has never been in>
vesti^ted with that precision and accuracy which it deserves, nor liave experiments been
sufficiently multiplied and diversified to establish a general rule. From you I expected
that it would have received new light, accustomed as you are to develope the most com-
plicated arcana of nature. In the experiments to be made, you reserved to yourself the
physiological, leaving to me the physico-chemical. Your journey into Sicily, and your
hasty return to Padua to exercise the duties of vour professordiip, rendered it impossible
at that time for you to execute your part of the plan. I have not dared to treat a sub-
ject reserved for you, but I hope that some other, to me fortunate, combination of cir-
cumstances may once more bnng you back to Naples, and afford you an opportunity *f%
prosecute these inquiries, together with others analogous to them. In the mean tint',
in some excursbns which I have made to tlie lake Agnano, I have examined with tlic
utmost attention, this little grotto ; and have made several experiments, by the detail of
which I dcubt not but you will be gratified. The subject it is true, has been repeatedly
examined by many naturalists, both natives of Italy and foreigners ; but their success has
not been sufficient to preclude every new experiment.
" The mephitic vapour, as ^ou well know, occupies the floor of a small grotto near the
lake Agnano, a place highly mteresUng to naturahsts from the phenomena its environs
present, and the hills within which it is included. This grotto is situated on the south-
east side of the lake, at a litUe distance from it. Its len^n i:. about twelve feet, and its
breadth from four to five. It appears to have been originally a small excavation, made
for the purpose of obtaining puzzolana. In the sides of the grotto, among the earthy
volcanic matters are found pieces of lava of the same kind with those we meet with scat-
tered near tlie lake. I examined some of them, and found them a conipact lava, of a
deep gray colour, interspersed with small hexadreous prisms of mica. They are of an
'T-rthy grain, a micaceous consistence, and have a sensible effect on the magnet. Par-
ticles of feltsparare rarely found in them, and we meet with no specimens which contain
shoerls. I am persuaded that were new exca\'ations made in the vicinity of the grotto,
at a level with its floor, or a little lower, the same mephitic vapour would be found, and
it would certiunly be curious to ascertain the limits of its extent. It would likewise be
extremely advantageous for physical observations were the grotto somewhat enlarged,
and its floor reduced to a level horizontal plain, by lowering it two or three fleet, and
surrounding it by a low wall, with steps at the entrance. In its present state, it is ex.
tremely inconvenient for experiments, and the inclination of the ground towards the
dt .r causes a great part of the vapour, from the effect of its speciflc. gravity, to make its
way out close to the ground. When I consider the narrow limits of this place, and the
small quantity of the vapour which has rendered it so celebrated, I have no doubt but it
jnust have undergone considerable changes ; for it doen not appear probable to me that
Pliny meant only the present confined vapour, when (lib. ii. cap. 93.) enumerating many
places fi'Dm which a'deadly air exhaled, he mentions the territory of Pozzuolo. The
mtemal fermentations by which it is caused are certainly much diminished hn the vicinity
of the lake Agnaiio. The water near its banks is no longer neen to bubble up, from the
disengagement of a gas, as we learn that it formerly did, from accounts of no very great
antiquity, I have attentively examined the borders of die lake when its waters were at
the highest, and after heavy rains, but I iicver could discover a single bubble of air. A
XK THE TWO SICIL1BS.
37
M
•r
y • ■ \
Ti I'
Vi{4
J. •
.' . I-
-5'. •
t. t--
"1 H,
.■-: t<.i-.
•X* A;
'^Jf ;\<
'Hrb.
Mb i$:
A v„
number of aquatic insects ^vhich sport on tlie surface, muy at first view occasion some
deception ; but a little observation will detect the error. If we do not suppose those au-
thors who have described the ebullition of the water near the banks of the lake Agnuno
to have been deceived, we must at least confess that this phenomenon has now ceased.
The quantity of the hepatic vapours which rise in the contiguous stoves, called the stoves
of St. Germano, must likewise be greatly diminished from what it anciently was : for
adjoining to the present stoves, we still find the remains of a spacious ancient fabric,
with tubes of terra cotta inserted in the walls, which by their direction shew for what
purpose they were intended. It appears certain that this was a building in which by the
means of pipes properly disposed, the vapours of the place were introduced into differ-
ent rooms, for the use of patients, who were accommodated there in a much better man-
ner than they are in the modem stoves of St. Germano, which wretched places nothing
could induce them to endure but the hope of bein^ restored to health. To these ruins,
however, the vapours no longer extend ; so that if thb edifice still remained, it could
not be employea for the purpose for which it was intended. The veins of pyrites which
have produced the more ancient conflagrations of the Phlegrean fields, between' Naples
and Cuma, and which in some places are entirely consumed, approach their total ex-
tinction. But let us proceed to the experiments made, and frequendy repeated within
the grotto.
"I. The first liad for its object to determine the height of the mephitis at the centre of
the grotto, that is^ at the intersection of the line of its greatest length with that of its
greatest breadth. This height varies according to the different dispositions and tempe-
ratures of the atmosphere, die diversity of winds, and the accidental variations nhattake
place in the internal fermentations bv which the vapour is produced : it may however be
estimated at a mean, at eight Paris inches.
"II. The entrance into the mephitis is accompanied with a slight sensation of heat, in
the feet and lower part of the lees. When, in the year 1786, f visited the lai^ me-
phitic vapours of Latera, in the dutchv of Castro, I likewise observed that they produced
the sensation of heat in the part of the body which was encompassed by the mephitic
atmosphere. Yet on taking out of the vapour severi I substances which had remained
in it a long time, as stones, leaves, carcasses of animals, &c. I found that these were of
the same temperature with the atmospheric air ; but as I b'id broken my thermometer on
the road, and was unable to procure another In any of the plases through which I passed,
I could not ascertain the temperature of the mephitis. I felt in my body a slight degree
of heat, which I could not perceive in the substances I took out of the mephitic vapour;
and endeavouring to compare one thing with another, I concluded that the temperature of
the mephitis was the same with that of the atn;ospheric ur, which I attempted to explain to
myself on the principles laid down by Dr. Crawford. But a number of other experiments
made in the Grotta del Cane, convinced me that this exhalation has a distinct degree of
heat different from that of the atmosphere. In these experiment", which I repeated many
times, the thermometer suspended at the aperture of the grotto, three, feet above the sur-
&ce of the mephitis, stood at between 13 and 14 of Reaumur's scale (62 and 64 of Fahr.)
and placing the ball on the ground, so that it was immersed in the mephitic vapour, the
mercury arose to between 21 and 22 of Reaumur (80 and 82 of Fsdir.) Nor ought
U to excite surprise, that the substances taken out of the mephids did not exhibit Uiis
diver»ty of temperatiu^, both because the difference is small, and on account of the
quantity of humidity with which they are always loaded, and which produces on their
sur&ce ft. continual evaporation. I frequently repeated this experiment, making use of
different thermometers, because I knew that the celebrated M. Adolphus Murray when
mm
51
SVALLANZAKI'S TRATELS
he made his experiments in the Grotta del Cane, had no; observed the vapour to pro-
duce any effect on the mercury in the thermometer.
" III. I repeated, for my own satisfaction, the usual experiments made by many natu-
ralists, with the tincture of turnsole, lime-watcrj the cr}'stallizations of alkalis, the ab-
sorption of water, and the acidulous taste communicated to it, which prove beyond all
doubt the existence of fixed air, or carbonic acid, in the exhalation of which we treat.
But is it composed of fixed air alone? This I wished to ascertain. When exposed in a
eudiometer to nitrous ^s, an absorption took place, to about the Vijb of the quantity.
In i) phial filled with this air, and continued with the mouth immersed in water for fif-
teen days, the water slowly rose until it occupied tsv : it may therefore be concluded,
that the relative quantities of the different gases which compose the mephitic air of the
Grotta del Cane are as follows : iVw of ^>al air, or oxygenous gas, t«5 of fixed air, or
carbonic acid, and ^'aa of phlogisticated a j azotic gas ; or perhaps it is a mixture
of carbonic acid and atmospheric air, with ; all quantity of azotic gas, more than is
contained in the atmospheric air.
•' The vicinity of the grotto to the stoves of Agnano, the warm vapours of which con-
tain a considerable quantity of hydrogenous sulphurated gas, induced me to suspect that
some portion of the latter might be found mixed with the gas of the mephitis ; but I
was not able to discover in it the smallest (^^uantity. I made use of the sugar of lead, or
acetite of lead, which, as you well know, is extremely sensible to the slightest impres-
sion of hepatic gas, leaving it immersed in the mephitis for the space of half an hour.
" It is certainly a curious problem to investigate the origin of this fixed air. You are
acquainted with the different opinions of naturalists, some of whom consider it as an at-
mospheric air changed into fixed by the action of the electric matter of the lava ; while
others suppose it produced by a slow and successive decomposition of the calcareous
earth, effected either by a subterraneous fire, or by an acid. But the fact is, that }'> the
Grotta del Cane there is not a single vein of lava, and that the atmosphere of that vici-
nity exhibits no particular signs of electricity. The hypothesis founded on the decom^
position of the calcareous earth, is likewise subject to great difficulties. Our excellent
common friend, the Commendatory de Dolomieu, in his valuable notes to the disserta-
tions of Bergman on the products of volcanos, is of opinion that the fixed air of volcanic
places is produced by the re-action of the sulphur on the calcareous earth, with which it
forms a liver of earthy sulphur. I am rather inclined to believe that the fixed air of vol-
canized countries is not developed ready formed from any substance, but is the produce
of the plumbago contained in the iron, with which all volcanic substances abound com-
bined with the base of vital air afforded by the intemal decompositions of the pyrites.
I am not induced to embrace this system by its novelty. The experiments of Messrs,
Lavoisier, Berthollet, Mongez, Landriani, and many other excellent chemists, cora^
pared with local observations, have proved, beyond a doubt, the exbtepce of plumba-
go in iron. It is certain that all volcanic substances abound in iron, and the hepatic
vapours which rise in the stoves of St. Germane, in the vicinity of the Grotta del Cane,
prove the internal decomposition of the pyrites, which still takes place here : a decom-
position which, by giving birth to the mephitic acid, furnishes likewise the base of
vital air.
he. u ly. Among the notices which the celebrated Bergman wished to receive, relative to
thie Grotta del Cane, he desired a detail of the phenomena of magnetism and electricity.
With respect to the former, I have observed no new appearance The magnetic needle,
placed on the ground, and consequently immersed in the mephitis, rested in the direc-
tion of its mendian; and, at the approach of a magnetized bar, exhibited the usui^-
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
39
effects of attraction and repulsion, according as cither pole was presented. With rc-
gartl to the latter article, it is not possible to make electrical experiments within the
mephitis; not liecause that kind of air is aconductorof the electric fluid, as M. Murray
imagined, but because the humidity that constantly accompanies it disperses the electric
matter, whi \ not being collected in a conductor, cannot be rendered sensible. I several
times attempted to fire inflammable gas, in the mephitic vapour, with electric sparks, by
means of the conductor of the electrophorous ; but, notwithstanding my utmost endea-
vours to animate the electricity, I never could obtain a single spark ; as the isolator
became a conductor the moment it entered into the mephitis, on account of the humi-
dity which adhered to its surface.
" V. One of the principal objects of the researches of academies and naturalists at pre-
sent is the theory of the combustion of bodies. My first experiment was directed to
ascertain whether those spontaneous inflammations which result from the mixture of
concentrated acids with essential oils could be obtained. I placed on the ground, in the
grotto, a small vessel, in such a situation that the mephitis rose six inches above the
edges of the vessel. I made use of oil of turpentine, and the vitriolic and nitrous acids,
and the same inflammation followed, accompanied with a lively flame, as would have
taken place in the open atmospheric air. The dense smoke which always accompanies
these inflammations, attracted by the humidity of the mephitis, presented its undulations
to the eye, and formed a very pleasing object. As I had put a considerable quantity of
acid in the vessel, I repeatedly poured in a little of the oil, and tlie flame appeared in
the mouth of the vessel fifteen times successively. This oxygenous principle contained
in the acids, and with which the nitrous acid principally abounds, undoubtedly contri-
buted to the production and duration of this flame, though enveloped in an atmosphere
inimical to inflummation.
*' In the district of Latera, which I have mentioned above, 1 observed that in a mephitis
of hydrogenous sulphurated gus, or hepatic gas, a slow combustion of phosphorus took
place, with the s;ime resplendence a& in the atmospheiic air. As I had not with me a
sufficient quantity of phosphorus, 1 could not proceed farther with this experiment, nor
vary it as might have been necessi\ry. In the mephitis of Agnano, the first experiment
I made was with common phosphoric matches, of which I broke five, holding them
close to the ground, and consequently immersed in the mephitis. They all produced a
short and tnuisient flame, which became extinguished the moment it was communicated
to the wick of a candle. The second experiment I made was the following : I placed
on the ground, in the grotto, a long table, in such a manner that one end of it was
without the mephitis ; while the other, and four-fifths of its whole length, were im-
mersed in it Along this table I laid a train of gunpowder, beginning from the end
without the mephitis ; and at the other, which was immersed within it, the depth of
seven inches, 1 placed, adjoining to the gunpowder, a cylinder of phosphorus, eight
lines in length. The gunpowder without the mephitis being fired, the combustion was
soon communicated to the other extremity of the train, and to the phosphorus, which
took fire with decrepitation, burnt rapidly, with a bright flame, slightly coloured with
veilow and green, and left on the wood a black mark, as of charcoal. The combustion
lasted nearly two minutes, till the whole phosphoric matter was consumed.
" I then proceeded to another experiment. I placed some gunpowder on the ground
in the grotto ; and having lighted a cylinder of phosphorus without the mephitis, I im-
merged it within it while burning, carried it the distance of ten feet, and threw it on the
gunpowder, which immediately took fire. No alteration v-?s perceptible in the flame,
or manner of bumiiig, of the Ughted phosphorus, either at the moment of its entrance
into the mephitis, <x during its continuance m it.
i
:
40
SPALLANZANI'S TRAVIL3
" I afterwards lighted another c^'linder of phosphorus, and conveyed it immediately
into the mephitis, supporting it with a small piece of wood ; and this likewise burnt
briskly, until it was entirely consumed.
" It may perhaps be suspected that, in the experiments with gunpowder, the oxygenous
gas contained in the nitre co-operated to the combustion of the phosphorus ; but it is
certain that, independent of the nitre, thb curious substance, though it burnt in me-
phitic air, presented the same appearances as in the atmospheric air. I am aware that,
among the experiments of M. Lavoisier, there is one on the combustion of phosphorus
produced by means of a burning mirror, under a glass bell, the mouth of which was
immersed in mercury. That excellent naturalist observed that the phosphorus began
to burn, but that in a few moments the air of the receiver being no loneer proper to
nourish the combustion, it became extinguished. Is it not probable that the extinction
of the phosphorus did not proceed from the infection of the air, but that the vapours
of the phosphoric matter remaining confined in the receiver, and condensing around
the phosphorus, suffocated its flame? The mephitic gas of the Grottadel Cane is cer-
tainly unfit for the respiration of animals, and the inflammation of common combustible
substances ; but phosphorus, nevertheless, bums in it, and emits, as usual, luminous
sparks.
" I must not conclude without noticing the production of the pho^horic acid from the
slow combustion of phosphorus in the mephitis. Perhaps this may present particular
modifications, dependent on the carbonic acid, to which it must necessarily unite itself
in this situation. But I have not yet been able to prosecute this experiment, the tem-
perature of the place not beine such as is requisite to make use of the apparatus suited
to the method of M. Sage. I shall therefore defer the investigation ofthis subject until
the winter, when I purpose to resume it, if I can procure free access to the grotto, for
Home little time, by satisfying the avidity of 'm rapcious guardian. ^. ,
I remain, with sentiments of the utmost friendship and esteem, , 1
'^ Your devoted servant and friend, "^ '
... SciFio Breislak.'*
The observations and experiments communicated in the above letter, undoubtedly
enlarge very considerably the sphere of our kno>. Vdge relative to this mephitic place ;
and I sincerely congratulate the author on the success of hb researches. But the same
sincerity induces me to mention an observation which occurred to me while readinghis
letter, and which I am convinced his friendi^p will permit me to make public. The
method he used to obtain the mort'ferous gas on which he made the experiments here
related, was, I doubt not, the same with that employed to ascertain the salubrity of the
atmospheric air ; that is, by taking a phial filled with water, inverting and plunging it
into the mephitis, then letting the water gradually out, and carefully closing the phial.
Had any other method been used, I doubt not but it would have been mentioned. But by
this the mephitis could not be obtained pure, such as it immediately issues from the floor
of the grotto, but must be more or less mixed with atmospheric air. For the carbonic
acid gas being heavier than the atmospheric {ur, it must consequendy form a stratum in
the lower parts of the grotto, where it will in general remain, though there will be some
mixture of the two fluids ; especially when the door is opened, and the internal am-
bient air put in motion. Hence the mixture of the three gases, the carbonic acid, the
azotic, and the oxygenous obtained by the abbe Breislak. I had, however, suggested
to him, that the best method to obtain this emanation pure would be to dig a small
trench in the ground of the grotto, and to fill it with water ; when a number of bubbles
\
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
41
would no doubt rise from the bottom to the snrfacr, whu-.!i would prolxil)!)' only consist
of the carbonic acid gas suspended in the body of the wattr. Tin. lontcMfs of these
bubbles might be collected by methods well known, and we should tluis procun; the
genuine mephitis, without any mixture of atmospheric, air. For greater accuracy in ihc
exi>eriment, mercury might be placed under the water; as it seems prol)al)le that the
tufaceous soil would not be sufficiently dense to retain it.
We have seen the opinion of this learned naturalist, rehuive to the orijjiin of the car-
bonic acid in this grotto. It is evident that in this, as in many other (jucstions of a si-
milar kind, we can only amuse ourselves with conjecttire, and perhaps we may never be
able to proceed farther than coniecture, relative to an operation which nature has veiled
in profound obscurity, and withdrawn from the observation of our senses. But since
certainty is not attainable, I must ingenuously declare, that among the difterent hypo-
theses that have been framed to account for this abstruse phenomenon, I prefer that
which supposes that the mephitis of the Grotta del Cane is separated, by the means of
fire, from carbonates of lime (or calcareous earths) and that, passing through difterent
volcanic substances, it has penetrated to that place. It is highly probable that the vol-
canos of the Neapolitan territory, and also those of the ecclesiastical state, are superin-
cumbent on strata of such carbonates, continued and connected with those of the Apen-
nines. In my way from Lombardy to Naples, when I arrived in the neighbourhor l of
Loretto, the road began to lead between mountains, which continued to Fuligno, a dis-
tance of nearly seventy miles. These mountains, almost all with horizontal strata, are
composed of these carbonates. The road from Fuligno to Spoleto and Terni presents a
chain of mountains of the same kind, and nearly with the same stratifications. These
mountains extended to within a little distance of Civita Castellana, where I found suffi-
cient testimonies of extinct voicanos, in the puzzolano and lavas, which I met with at
every step. Some of these lavas are of a base of shoerl in the mass, and others of a horn-
stone base : they all resemble the Vesuvian with respect to the white garnets they contain.
The volcanic bodies, and various kinds of tufa and puzzolana, continued to present
themselves quite to the gates of Rome. From this city, continuing my journey to Na-
pies by the way of Veletri, I continually met with volcanized matters ; but at Terracina
the mountains next the sea again appeared to be formed of calcareous earth, as did those
of Sessa. But whatever may be the character of the more elevated parts, the bottoms,
through which the high road passes, consists of tufa, which exhibits the true signs of
volcanization not only in the pieces of lava, and the great number of pumices it contains,
but from being in a great degree a mixture of small fragments of lava and scoria.
It is to be remarked, and it is worthy of attentive consideration, that when we leave
the road, and ascend the steep eminences on its sides, we frequently find beneath the
tufa calcareous stone, especially in places where the former has been corroded by rain
water. The remainder of the Apennines from Sessa to Naples are formed of the same
calcareous stone; though in lower situations the volcanic tufa is scarcely ever inter-
rupted
In Chap. VI, I shall speak of a volcano which I observed near Caserta, a small city
about sixteen miles from Naples. I shall then shew that the volcanic matters are there
every where surrounded by calcareous stone.
TTie Fossa Grande, which descends laterally from Mount Vesuvius, and which I have
mentioned in Chap. I, is bordered on the sides by two high rocks. That which is on
the left, the side toward Naples, owes its origin to an aggregate of lava; while that on
the right b composed of pumice stone and tufa ; which not being firmly connected,
VOL. V. c
-
1
42
SPALLAKZANTsI TRAVBLa
frequently fall bv their own weight, especially when loosened by rains, and in their fall
bruig down with them various substances, of which some are calcareous spars, mixed
with pieces of the common calcareous earth, which, as I have already mentioned, I met
with m my journey to Naples. These substances seldom exhibit any traces of injur}'
by the fire : their angles likewise are not blunt or ragged, but sharp. It is, however,
indubitable that thev ore pieces rent from great masses of calcareous stone, before the
vehemence of the fire had time to change them. These observations I made on my
return from Vesuvius to Naples.
' The author of the Campi Phlegrsei, speaking incidentally of the Fosse Grande, ^ves
the figure of a piece of calcareous breccia found there ; and observes that similar pieces
arc frequently found in the excavations made by the rains in the sides of Vesuvius and
Monte Somma. The Lithologia Gioeniana, which treats on the productions of this
volcano, mentions similar calcareous stones to have been thrown up from its mouths in
former times.
The island of Capri, near Naples, it is to be observed, is likewise composed of cal-
careous earth.
From all these observations, it appears to admit of no doubt that the Neapolitan ter-
ritory, which we see voleanized, rests on calcareous strata. This was likewise the opi-
nion of Ferbcr and Sir William Hamilton.
If then we suppose the subterraneous fire to act gradually on the calcareous stone,
compelling it to divest itself by degrees of its acid, while it becomes covered with earthy
aggregations easily permeable to this acid, now becomes gaseous, the gas will issue
above it, and form a current mingling with the atmospheric air. This probably will ex-
plain the nature of the emanation. in the Grotta del Cane. The abbe Breislak has shewn
that the heat of this emanation is greater than that of the atmosphere ; which affords us
reason to suppose that a remainder of volcanic fire exists under the grotto. The great
humidity of the vapour is likewise extremely favourable to this hypothei*is, since we
know that calcareous stone, by the action of fire, is not only deprived of its acid, but
of the water which it contained. It may be objected that on ihii supposition the mcphi-
tis must diminish ; but it should be considered tliat its extent is very confined, while
the quantity of the subjacent calcareous matter is immense ; and it is likewise well known
what a prodigious quantity of this acid is combined with such stones.
This hypothesis will likewise explain the temporary nicphites which arise only in
consequence of particular eruptions, as frequently happens in the environs of Vesuvius.
The deleterious exhalations will continue till the subterraneous fires have decomposed
the calcareous stones ; but they cease when the conflagrations arc extinguished.
m THE TWO SICILTCA.
4.*:
CHAPTER l\.
NAKESOF AGNANO AND AVKRNO....MONTE NUOVO....PnOMONTORY AND (A
VERN OF M1SENO....HOCK OF UURNT STONES....PUOC1D A.
The lake of Agnnnn once n spncious volcanic crater....TcncIie9 and frogs found in this lalci*....
The absurd report that monstrous animals are produced there, detected l>y VaHisneri....TiK*
lake of Averno presents the mouth of another ancient volcano.... It i^i false that l)trds caimoi
approach this hike. ...No deleterious exhalation emitted by it.... Volcanic substances of Monte
Nuovo.... Lavas found there of the nature of pumice and enamel... .Soda grows in n little cavern
of its crater.... Peculiarity of amphil>ious animals observed here.. ..The ravern of Miscno
abounds in sulphate of alumine (aUim) and pumice... .Well of water full of gaseous l)ubbK's....
Volcanic crater still discernible on the promontory of Miseno.... Pumices found there, contain-
ing feltspar8....Lava, pumices, and enamels of the same nature, found on the Hock of Burnt
Stones, and at Procida....Great frialiility of this enamel, not common to volcanic enameU, anil
its probable cause.
THOUGH the Phlcerean fields are numerous, I in this work propose to describe,
or at least to give a sketch of them all ; since, though they are all volcanic, the objects
they present are few, and little different from each otner.
I believe no one doubts that the cavity filled with water, and usually denominated the
lake of Agnano, has been the mouth of a volcano. It certainly has internally the re-
semblance of one, since it is shaped like an inverted funnel, the usual figure of vol-
canic craters. It must have been a very large one, since it is nearly two miles in circuit.
Numerous flocks of ducks swim on its surface, and its waters contain great quantities
of tenches and frogs, which were once celebrated for a pretended monstrous formation,
imtii the cause of this absurd error was detected by Villisncri. It may not perhaps be
uninstructive should I, by way of an amusing digression, relate the story of this plea-
sant mistake to the reader.
It is well known that frogs, before they arrive at the perfect form of their species,
have that of a kind of worms, usually called tadpoles, the bodies of which ai j of aii
orbictilar shape, and have tails. We know likewise that these tadpoles become frogs by
degrees, the hinder legs being first produced, and afterwards the fore legs, while they
retain the tail for a considerable time. This gives them a strange appearance, as the
tail appears like the lower half of a fish, while the round body and legs resemble the
frog. Hence persons unacquainted with the productions of nature have supposed them
to be monstrous animals, half fish and half frogs. A credulous Neapolitan brought one
of these monsters, which he said was a native of the lake Agnano, to Villisneri, at Mi-
lan, that he might view it and admire. It did not, however, require the knowledge of so
great a naturalist immediately to perceive the absurd error. The tadpole, which to
him was an ouject of laughter, not of admiration, was of an extraordinary size, whence
he concluded that the frogs of the lake Agnano were extremely large. They are not,
however, larger than the comn -»n size, nor did I find the tadpoles bigger, though, as it
was the end of July, they had arrived at their full groAvth, and many, having cast their
tails, had become perfect frogs. That which was shewn to Vallisneri was possibly
brought from some other country, perhaps America, where the frogs grow to an ex-
tremely large size.
c 2
\'
i'/^
I
i
u
SPAT.L.\N5!ANI*S TnAVtr.3
:
The sides and bottom of this lake arc of tufa, interspersed in some phiccs with frag,
ments of lava and pumice-stone ; thou(;h we do not find, at least mo far as the eye can
reach, any veins or strata of lava : whence I infer the eruption to have been entirely, or
in u great degree, thick and slimy.
The same ideas which naturally occur to the observer at sight of the hdcc Agnano,
will be suggested likewise by that of Averno, as there can Ix) no doubt but this likewise
was the crater of an ancient volcano. The Greeks called it Aornus ; because no birds
were found near it, probably on account of some pestilential vapour which then exhaled,
and deprived them of life. The author of the Campi Phlegrwi asserts that it is very rarely
that any watcr-fowl are to be seen on this lake, and that when they come they re-
main there but a very short time. The truth however is, that whenever I was there,
I saw great numbers of teal swimming on the surface, and the peasants assured mc
that the lake abounded with water-fowl in the winter. Nor do I know any cause
which can, at present, drive them from a place where they may find plenty of food ;
as neither the environs, nor the lake itself, afford any indications of noxious exhala-
tions.
These two places lie to the west of Naples, near Pozz nolo, in the vicinity of which
is Monte Nuovo, so called because it was produccdby subterranean fires in 1538. It is
not very high, and seen from the port of Pozzuolo, appears to be an obtuse cone ;
but, on reaching the top, we discover that this cone is only the exterior part of a cm-
ter, the upper edges of which form a circle of about one hundred and fifly feet in
diameter.
Like other volcanic craters, the internal sides of this grow narrow towards the bottom,
and both that which I call the bottom, and the external part of Monte Nuovo, consist
of a friable tufa, in many places, covered with plants. The sea bathes the sides of this
volcano, which, if they arc dug into a little, as well within the water as without, are
found very warm. The same warmth is likewise perceived at the bottom of the crater.
From such excavations, likewise, arise thin worm vapours. In fact, in the internal parts
of Monte Nuovo we find all the last remains of volcanic conflagration.
In the external sides of the mountain many pieces of lava are found, which deserve
notice from their singular quality. They are a substance of a middle character between
lava and pumice-stone, on which account I shall call them pumice-lavas. They have
the lightness and friability of a compact pumice-stone. When broken by the teeth, by
which a good judgment may be formed of some stones, they appear real pumice-stone.
They are dry and rough to the touch, as is usual with such kmds of volcanic produc-
tions. Their structure is not fibrous, contrary to what we observe in common pumice-
stone, but granulous, and very similar to that of various kinds of lava, as is likewise
the internal appearance. This production is of importance, as presenting a middle sub-
stance between lava and pumice-stone. The base of these stones is a horn-stone, mix>
ed with a few feltspar scales : they scarcely adhere to the tongue, and emit a slight argilla-
ceous odour. In the furnace they produce a compact enamel, of a dark gray colour,
transparent at the angles, and which gives a few Sparks with steel.
Towards the internal bottom of the crater we find, projecting from the tufa, the same
kind of lava, penetrated with feltspars, but more compact and heavy, and interspersed
with beautiful and shining veins of black enamel of various thickness. I am in doubt
whether this species of vitrification was the consequence of a greater degree of heat to
which the lava had been there exposed, or whether, from the difference of its quality in
those places, it had undei^one a more perfect fusion, and become enamel, while in
others it had remained in the state of lava.
I'f
k
IN TMK TWO SICII.IEl.
41
Oil the side ol' thin liottom \vr liiid, within the tiii'.i, n nmiill cavity, I know not
whether formed liy nature or ail, thutal)ouii(U with sahiuilllorrNCcnciH, whieh 1 at first
imagined to he miiriute of anunoniac (sal ammoniac) or sulphate of aUiminc (alum)
but their urinous acrid taste, the green colour whieh they gave to syrup of violets, and
other (pialitieH tliat are proper to smla, and which I omit for the sake of brevity, Icavo
no doubt tlut they arc formed from that salt. Ik-sides these eAlDresceiices, the Hinall
hollows, cornen, and bottom of UiIh cavity arc more or kna covered with the dust of
this boda.
I cannot take leave of this volcano without mentioning an observation, which has
some ;umlc)gy to what lias been before noticed of lake Agnano, as it relates to the same
species of animals. On the tufaceous sides of the cmtcr, both internal and external, ;ui
often as I approached them, ls;iwa great number of frogs leaping about. They were
nearly half an inch long, and a (luarter in breadth. They had the complete form of the
frog, were of a dark yellow colour, and their fore feet were divided into four toes, and
their hinder into five, though they have not the shape of the luind, which constitiitcH
un essential difference between these frogs and the others of these countries. But how
are these amphibious animals produced r Among all the different sjieciesof Kuro()ean
fro^ (and under this genus I, with Linnaeus, likewise include toads) I know none
which do not begin tneir existence in water, and continue to live in it some time,
until they throw off" the mask of the tadpole, and assume the shape of frog^. But
Monte Nuovo is not only entirely without moisture, but, as 1 learned from the peasants
who reside in the neighbourhood, even when heavy rains full, the bottom of the crater
(which is the only place where ruin<water can be collected and retiiined) imbibes all the
water immediately ; as, in fact, it must, since it consists of a light spongy tufa full of
cracks and fissures.
The only water near, is that of the lake Agnano, about half a mile distant ; from which
these animals might be supposed to have derived their origin, were it not that the frogs
of that lake are of a totally different species. I must therefore confess, that the presence
of these creatures here was to me an enigma, which, perhaps, I might have been able to
have solved, not without some advantage to natural knowledge, hud I been able to have
made a longer stay in this volcanic country.
Before we reach the promontory of Miseno we arrive at the harbour, which is a very
secure basin, us it is surrounded on every side by eminences. This was the port for the
Roman fleet in the Mediterranean. The eminences are of tufa ; and, on one side, a
little above the level of the sea, we find a spacious cavity, the work of art, called the
Cavern of Miseno, in which the m jriate of alumine continually effloresces. This salt
is either unknown to or neglected by the inhabitants ; though it might be extracted with
great advantage, e8|)ecially were the cavern enlarged (which it might easily be, as the
tufa is extremely soft) since the saline efflorescences would certainly increase in propor-
tion to the enlargement of the superficies.
At the bottom of the cavern there is a well of water bubbling up, with sometimes
more, sometimes fewer, gaseous bubbles, which rise from the bottom. The water is
nearly of the same temperature with the atmosphere, and the gas, from the scent, ap-
pears to be sulphurated hydrogenous ; but I had not convenient opportunity exactly to
ascertun its quality. The sides and roof of the cavern are scattered over with con»mon
pumices, contiuning various teitspars, some calcined and consequently deprived of their
native lustre, without, however, having lost their natural crystallization, which is
rhomboidal.
46
ll>ALLANZANl'l TRAVKLt
Bcyoml the port of Misrno U the promontory of the Niinir imiiic, which roriu:! u tui'u*
rcouH inouiitain of no (Ic^nicablc hright ; from the top of which Homc admirubic prospcctH
nrcHciit thciiHclvc!!. This, Ukewihc, ccrUiinly oweH its origin ton volcano, iih itMcnitcr
IS Htill very disct rnihlc, though in ii grcut meuhurc dcHtroycd, on the Houlh bide, by the
wnves of the !>ea.
Huvinf; proceeded to some distance from this promontory, I met with several lavaa
immersed in the tiifu, huth of Uie compact and porous species, hut common to other vol-
canos, and all detached. Mixed with these were various pieces of pumice, in like man-
ner detached, in which fcltspars were, I will not say scattered, but thickly sown. In a
houare inch of this pumice I counted fourteen on the exterior surface, and forty-seven
w ithin. They are crystallized with various faces, arc somewhat less hard than quartz,
and have that changeable brilliancy which is inseparable from feltspars. The fire does
not upi)car to have been able to injure them, though it has changed their base intopu-
niicr, which is in fact a real vitrification.
In front of IVocida, and at a little distance from it n small low rock projects into the
sea, formerly only known to fishermen, and called the Uock of Burnt Stones, because
it is in fact a mixture of pumices, enamels, and lavas. The first natunilist who noticed
it was the abbe Ureislak, who conducted me to it with a particular kind of pleasure, as
a place appertaining to himself. A stay of two hours, which I made on it, was well
rewarded by the objects it presented. Its elevation above the surface of the water is
only a few feet, and consequently in tempestuous weather, it must be covered by the
waves. On making the circuit of it in a boat, and examining it, we find that only the
Gojecting points rise above the water, and that the body of the re jk is below the surface,
ence it appears probable, that it was once much larger, but has been in a great degree
destroyed by the violence of the waves.
The stones of which this rock is composed are principally of two qualities. The first,
a lava of a horn-stone base, light, of a dark gray colour, an earthy grain, unequal, nd
which gives scarcely any sparks with steel. The second is a lava, with a base ot shuerls
in the mass, which has undergone various changes and modifications, according to the
different heats to which it has been exposed. In many fragments, therefore, we only
find it a simple lava, while in others, it has become pumice, and in others enamel.
In one part ttiey appear of a witish colour, fibrous, light, and extremely friable ; but,
us their levity and friability diminish, they become more compact, and the fibres less
discernible ; the colour grows darker, and a glassy lustre begins to appear. A little far>
ther, their fibrous quality is entirely lost ; their compactness, weight, hardness, and
lustre increase, and the unequivocal characters of a perfect enamel are seen. This Iwtter
is black, gives sparks with steel, and in its appearance resembles the aspaltum. Its
black colour is interrupted by feltspars, which are likewise common to the first lava with
the horn-stone base. They are extremely brilliant, somewhat fibrous, crystallized in
hexaedrous prisms, and several of them five lines in length.
It frequently happens, that the volcanic productions which exist in one place are
found likewise in another : that is, that in different situations the earthy matters and
the activity of the fire have been the same ; a concurrence which may easily take place
in various parts of the globe ; and which is exemplified in the similarity of a comer of
the island of Procida to the Uock of Burnt Stones. The island is situated to the west
of the rock, and is about six leagues in circuit. The shore, being an accumulated mass of
tufa, abounds with shrubs and plants. This tufa on the side next Ischia, having been
much corroded by the sea, affords a distinct view of its structure, which is in strata ;
I. _
IN TUB TWO SIC 1 1. IK I.
47
whcnco wc may infer lliat it has been tJK- prrKluction of siicccssivt fluid (liHpoiition«i. To
llic north-UTHt of the iHland is a nuk.ciii wliicli \vr fiiul piiniicHs, pumiccmis lava, and
cnumclH, l)()tii puiniccouH uiid pure, urcontpaiiic-d uitli Icltspurs, and the other con<
comituiits with which they are found un the Hoek of Burnt Stone** ; on whieh account
it would be only loss cf time to reca))itulate their dehcri|)tlon. I met with only one new
•tone, which was a common f^ranite, in which wen* distinctly discoverable it» three con-
ititucnt parts : the fcltspar in nhining n<edles; a lightly livid, and slif^htly calcined quartz ;
and a black mica, which did not shine. It could not therefore be doubted, that it had
been exnosed to the action of the fire. Uut as I found this granite loose on the shore,
dctachcu from the volcanic prcMlucts I have before mentioned, I shall notice it no farther.
From the lavas of the horn-sionc base, foiuid on this rock, wc obtain in the furnace
tk very compact and hard enamel, which uflbrds sparks with steel ; and from the lavas
the base of which is shoerl in thv mass, as also from the pumice and the enamel, which
originate from the same stone, is produced u scorified enamel, so ebullient, that a great
ftart of it boiled over the edges of tlie crucible, though it was only half full. Thijt violent
usion, however, produced no sensible change in the feltspars.
I shall conclude this chapter with an observation relative to the enamels of the Rock
of Burnt Stones, and Procida. They are extremely friable ; a slight stroke with a
hammer will break them into pieces ; \ herens the enamels of most other volcanos, as
V't shall see in their respective placts, I'osscss considerable hardness, and a much greater
than that of common glass. I imagine this defect may be caused by the scu- water which
is mixed with them, and raised from the sea by the action of fire and aeri-form fluids.
Thus we know that those liquid vitreous substances which are congealed and consoli*
dated in water, arc much more triable than when hardened in the uir. I am confirmed
in this opinion by observing, that u number of cracks ind fissures arc to be found in these
enamels, an appearance we likewise obst rve in glass which has been dropped into water
while in a state of fusion. It is to be remarked that these enamels, while they were
fluid have received within them several extraneous bodies ; as pieces of tufa and lava,
sands and earths of various kinds, which are found within them more or less calcined.
It is probable from the small distance between Procida and the Rock of Burnt Stones,
tliat they once were joined, and have been separated, in the course of a long series of
years, by the action of the scu.
• «
U^,:
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■: '■
' ■7
t
V^mI
48
SPALLANZANl's TRAVELS
CHAPTER V.
ISCIIIA.
The CuHtle of Isthia founded on a rock of lava and tufa.. ..Singular si.ccies of swallows, which
make their nests at iti top, and on the higher eminences of the island.... T^ava of the Arso des-
cribed....Its pumices Oi'iginate from the horn-stone....The opinion q( sot.e volcanic naturalists,
that the Inva of the Arso, which flowed in 1302, still smokes, ill foun led... .Lavas and pumices
scattered between the city of Ischia and ihe Arso... .Conical mountain, called the Rota»*a, com-
posed of lavas and pumices, is the only one in the island which contains enamel8....Thc high
n^ountnin of St. Nicola, probably, at first, rose out of the sea....Volcanic substances of that moun"
tain....Some of those substances yield sulphate of alumine (alum)....Excursion round the shore
of Isrhia.... Volcanic productions found there.... Ferruginous sand abundant on that island....Is
found to be all crystallized.... Inquiries concerning its origin....No prismatic configuration in the
lavas which fall into the sea....The assertion of some modern writers, that tne lavas of the shores
of Ischia are a nidus for the pholades, greatly to be doubted.>..The Stoves of Ischia, the only
probable iitdication of a remaining internal conflagration....Cons'deral)le diminution of this
i8land....Difference lictween the volcanic materials of Ischia and Ihose of the other Phlegrean
Field8....Singular property of the feltspars of the Ischian 1 .vas, which melt in a glass furnace,
whereas those of other lavas are almost always infusible by its heat. . • .
THE volcanic substances of which this island, eighteen miles in circuit, is internally
composed, prove, beyond the possibility of doubt, that it owes its origin to fire. The
obscure epochs of the eruptions of these substances have been fixed, by conjecture, by
M. Niccola Andria, the learned professor royal in the university of Naples, in his in
teresting work, entitled, De'J*; Ac^ue Termali,* in which, before he treats of the warm
springs of Ischia, 'le gives a detail of the natural history of the country', in which he
displays equul leaminj"; and ingenuity. To this work. I refer the curious reader, who
will fmditextremtly instructive.
I shall, however^ according to the plan I originally proposed to myself, proceed to
describe tlie principal productions of this island which owe their origin to fire, adding
^uch remarks as the subject may seem to render necessary. I shall begin therefore at
the castle of the city of Ischia, which is built on a rock surrounded by the sea, and a
little more than a quarter of a mile in circuit. Lava and tufa are the two component
substances of this rock. The former is different in its appearance, according to the
different places in which it is found ; but its qualities appeared to me to be substantially
the same. Its base is hornstone : it is compact, of a moderate hardness, an earthy ap-
pearance ; of a black colour externally, but grayish within. Its dead lurid hue is di-
lersified by a few sparkling rhomboidal feltspars.
The furnace produced from it a very compact enamel, of a mixed colour, between
, that of honey and dark blue, without any alteration in the feltspars. :- :. 1, ^
The tufa nas no quality by which it is distinguished from the common.
On examining the direction of the tufa and the lava, it was found to continue the
' same in the neighbouring mountain, which is separated from the rock by a narrow chan-
nel of the sea : whence it is obvious to infer, that several currents have descended from
* Oi! the waters of hot baths.
Hi
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
49
V9, whi-h
Arso den-
aturalists,
i pumices
:a»-.i, com-
.The high
[lat moun-
the shore
sUind....Is
tion in the
the ahores
the only
on of this
Phlegrean
18 furnace.
internally
re. The
icture, by
in his in
the warm
which he
der, who
troceed to
re, adding
lerefore at
ica, and a
smponent
ing to the
istantially
jarthy ap-
hue is di-
''.'■'T-'"^*'f\ '"
\ between
ntinue the
row chan-
nded from
the mountain and plunged into the water, thus forming the rock, which has been divided
from the island by the action of the waves.
A number of black and white swallows* make their nests in different parts of this
castle, and in i..e clefts of the rock. The steep and lofty rocks of the island, likewise,
afford a secure retreat to these birds of passage.
Leaving the castle and the city of Ischia, and proceeding about a mile to the west, we
meet with a torrent of lava, called the Arso (or Burnt Ground) which is the most re.
cent of any in the island, since it flowed in 1302, and is described by Viliani, in his
History of Florence. It extended about half a mile in breadth, and about a mile and a
half in length, and would liave flowed farther, had it noL met the sea, in which it was
buried. The course of the torrrent appears interrupted by eminences and descents, and,
at some distance, presents to the eye the resemblance of an immense number of large
heaps of mulberries confusedly thrown together. It has no visible crater, if by that
term we understand, as is usual, a mouth more or less enlarged towards the edges, and
contracted at the bottom ; for the lava issued from a narrow cleft at the foot of Mount
Tripeta. Though it is little less than five centuries since this lava flowed, a gloomy
sterility reigns up<ui it ; it does not produce a single blade of grass, and only affords, in
some places, a few arid and useless plants of the lichen, or liverwort. On the surface,
and for a little depth, it is light and spongy, and easily crumbles ; but deeiier, it becomes
dense and harder. The same is observable in many lavas, and is the natural effect of
the laws cf gravity : the lighter parts of a liquid mass rising to the surface, and the hea-
vier sinking to the bottom.
This lava is of the ha'n-stone base, and has an earthy gronnd. Its colour is different
in different places, and vai^es from that of iron to a reddish black. The feltspars incor-
porated in it are extremely numerous, and, when attentively examined, in some speci-
mens, may induce us to conclude that the fire which produced this torrent must have
been extremely violent ; since we find the feltspars more or less melted, though gene-
rally, those included in lavas appear not to have undergone the least alteration. When,
we take the lava of the Arso from some depth, in the middle of the current, we find this
fusion of the feltspars extremely apparent. Some appear transformed into little globes,
or cylinders ; others have been only melted on one side, on which they have lost their
crystallized form, though they have preserved it entire in other parts. In some cavities
of the lava, where the fusion of the feltspars lias been more considerable, we meet with
singular appearances, which well deserve notice. Sometimes the melted feltspar hangs,
as it were, in the air, attached only by some radiating threads of the lava itself, in the
centre of wMch it hangs ; while another, melting in the side of a cavity, takes the shape
of a transparent concave veil. Even those that have not undergone fusion exhibit de-
cisive signs of a strong calcination. They are extremely friable, and their shining
changeable colour is in many places turned to a dead white. In consequence of this
calcination, the crystals ^re often no longer found entire, but scattered here in small
fragments in the body of the lava. Those in the lava on the sides of the current are less
injured, and their crystallization is in quadrangular faces.
As the volcanic fire had reduced many of the feltspars in this lava to a state of fusion,
I determined to try what effect I could produce on them in the furnace ; but though I
kept them there two days, I could only obtain a simple calcination.
M. Dolomieu, speaking of the island of Ischia, tells us that the eruption of the Arso,
though we know it continued two years, never produced any pumice, but only black
VOL. V.
* Hirundo melba.
H
Lio.
,— ^Hf"
50
SPALLANZANI S TSAVELS
scoriae.* It is true I could only find scoriaceous lava on the surface, and solid lava in
the internal parts, through the whole length of the course of ihe torrent, except at the
aperture whence it had flowed ; whcre^ amidst a great quantity of fragments of lava, I
found several pieces of pumice so completely characterised, that there was no danger of
confounding them with the light and porose scoriae, which have been frequently by per-
sons of insuHicient discernment, taken for pumices. These besides being dry and rou^h
to the touch, were fibrous, with long fibres, vitreous, extremely light, shining, and bnt-
t'e; whereas the texture of the scoriae and scoriaceous lava of the Arso isgranulous, or
so confused that no shadow of a fibre appears ; nor have they much friability In other
re&pccts, these pumices of the Arso agree in substance with the scoriae and lava of the
same place ; the feltspars in them are alike, and equally affected by the fire. This ob-
servation proves therefore, that the horn-stone, by a violent fire may be changed into a
true pumice, though this transmutation rarely happens.
The above-mentioned French naturalist likewise asserts, that the lava of the Arso still
smokes in many places ; and that the white fumes which rise from it are very visible in
the morning when much dew has fallen.
This assertion, though it must appear somewhat extraordinary, would certainly merit
belief, had M. Dolomieu himself been an eye-witness to the fact ; which had he been, he
certainly would have told us. As however he only expresses himself in general terms, it
is probable he relied on the information of others. The abbe Breislak and myself made
our observations on the Arso, at the most proper time for discovering these fumes. We
repaired thither at sun-rise, and passed there the greatest part of a morning in which
there was no want of dew ; but our eyes sought this wonderful appearance in vain. Nor
could we learn that it liad been seen by any other persons; those at least of the inhabi-
tants of the vicinity whom we interrogated on the subject, and they were not few, nor
people likely to deceive us, all declared that they had never seen either smoke, vapour,
or mist, arise from the Arso. However notwithstanding this, I will not take upon me
absolutely to deny the fact. I will only say, tliat I find it difficult to overcome my
doubts ; nor am I convinced by the instances adduced by M. Dolomieu, of some lavas
of Etna which have not yet ceased to smoke, though they were ejected in 1762 ; since the
time elapsed in the latter case is only twenty-six years, but in the other four hundred and
eighty-six.
On my return to the city of Ischia, I met with three lavas rising from the earth like
huge rocks. The base of all the three was the horn-stone, but they were distinguished
from each other by certain exterior characters.
One of them was of a cinereous colour, of a coarse grain, but compact, dry, and rough
to the touch. In its external appearance it was not unlike to '^me sand-stones.
The second was of a ground entirely earthy : its compactness, weight, and hardness
were however greater than those of the first lava.
The third, in its recent fractures, was half vitreous ; gave sparks with steel, but lan-
guidly; and was more fixed, heavy, and hard than the two others.
AU these three lavas had an argillaceous scent, and contained numerous feltspars so
brilliant and perfect that they appeared to liave entirely eluded the violence of the fire.
A number of detached pumices accompanied these lavas, which they resembled in
their general qualities ; they contained feltspars and shoerls, but both reduced to a begin-
etng state of fusion-
* Catalogue Riiisonnec clcs Produits de I'Etna.
IN THE TWO SIMMfiii.
51
But no part of the island so abounds with pumices as the Kotaro, a niountaiu situated
between Casamicciola and the city of Ischia. This mountain is of a conical shape, and
composed of tufa, pumices, and enamels. It appears to have been produced by a thick
and slimy eruption, and is divided into several strata, particularly distinguishable in the
road called Via del Rotaro. Between these strata there is an immense ({uantity of pu-
mices, differing in their size, colours, and density ; but similar in their texture, which
in all is fibrous. They contain various feltspars, which manifest a beginning fusion.
They do not form continued currents, as we observe in many of the pumices of Lipari,
but are found in detached pieces ; yet so disposed, that in many places they form beds
or strata. It appears extremely probable, that the volcano, after an eruption of tufa,
threw up a shower of pumices, which falling on the tufa produced a bed of stratum,
upon which another eructation formed another tufaccous stratum, that was again covered
with another shower of pumices ; and thus by alternate ejections of tufaceous and pu-
miceous matters, a great part of the conical mountain was formed. The extent of the
pumices, in the direction of the Via del Rotaro, is more than a mile ; and they princi-
pally abound in the more elevated places, where those most proper for the purpoi^es for
which these stones are used in Italy, may be collected in great abundance.
' Intermixed with the pumices and tufa, we find many pieces of enamel, the thicknesf:
of which is from an inch to a foot and a half, and even two feet. These were probabl v
thrown out at the time when the above-mentioned mountain was formed. They are of
a black colour, and yield to the strokes of a hammer much more than the enamels ot
the Rock of Burnt Stones and Procida. Like them, they abound in feltspars, and pre-
sent the usual rhomboidal figure. The Rotaro is the only place in Ischia which affords
enamels.
It seems as if it might be considered as an invariable rule, that among the mountains
of different elevation which hav ven birth to volcanic islands, that which rises above
the rest, and is commonly phceu ihe centre, was first produced by the fire ; and that
those which surround it, and by their junction and extent form he body of the island^
are the work of succeeding eruptions, which have issued either from the crater of the
primitive mountain, or from the lateral and lou r craters, hence have been ejected that
aggregate of subaltern and successively lower mountains, l)y which the most elevated,
which occupies the centre is surrounded. In this manner w perceiv" several of the
Eolian isles to have been formed. Such also has been the origin of Ischia ; where the
mountain of St. Niccola, which in earlier times was liled Epopeo, and which is in the
centre of the island, and higher than the rest, was no doubt the first that towered above
the waves. The constituent substances of this mountain are of various kinds. I have
considered, with some attention, those on the side of Lacco which are stones that in the
same manner as those of Solfatara, have undergone a '^ inposition probably to be at-
tributed to sulphureous acids, if from the resemblance ol effects we may ai^ue a simi-
larity of cause. The rocks near the sea on the coast of Fasano are less decomposed ; nor
is it difficult to discover their nature, which is granitous ; the mica, feltspar, and quartz,
being clearly discernible, with some greenish particles of steatites. The quartz and felt-
spars, though somewhat calcined, are tolerably hard ; and the mica which is black, has
not lost its native splendour. This rock, which does not appear to have suffered fusion,
is whitish, and changed in such a manner that it will no*^^ resist a blow of the ham-
men
Proceeding towards the summit of the Epopeo, we meet with decomposed lavas,
partly of the nom-stone base, and partly of that of the petro-silex, in which however
the argilla occupies no small part. The lavas of this latter quality, in part not affected
H 2
V
/■ -
♦C *
52
SI'ALLANZANI'S TRAVELS
I
by the Sulphureous acids, arc of a black hue, of considerable compactness, give sparks
freely with steel, and in their fractures, and sometimes externallv, present a siliceous ap-
l)earance. Their odour is sensibly argillaceous. These petrosiliccous lavas are not sim-
ple, but contain within them some small flakes of feltsparand mice.
In the furnace they melt into a substance of the colour and lustre of pitch, in which
however the white feitspars appear, or rather are conspicuous.
These lavas are found to be variously decomposed by the acids, in the same manner as
is observable in those of Solfatara. In some places they are covered with a thin wintish
crust, li^ht, soft to the touch, which attaches to the tongue, and is extremely friable. In
others this crust is soir" iitches deep, and in others it extends through the whole thick«
ness of the lava. Sometimes we find it so soflened that it has become pulverous ; and
there is a great quantity of white dust on the brow of the mountain. We may therefore
conclude that trie sulphureous acids have there been very abundant, and of long dura-
tion ; though now there is no perceivable sign of any such exhalations.
vv e know that formerly in Ischia the sulphate of alumine (alum) was extracted for
commercial purposes ; and according to M. Andria, who has been before cited, the ma-
nufacture of this salt was principally carried on at Catrico, a place situated above Lacco,
on the higher eminences of the £popeo. He informs us however, that he was not able,
after the most careful and minute research, to discover any remaining vestige of sulphate
of alumine. I will candidly state what I myself observed,
I collected a number of specimens of the different lavas of Catrico and the environs.
They are generally compact, very white, and homogeneous to the eye ; but they differ
from each other by the following exterior characters. Some are moderately heavy and
hard ; in their recent fractures, and frequently without, they are smooth ; and in the
centre of some we find a small nucleus of blackish lava, but little decomposed. Others
are very light, may be scratched by the nail, are rough and somewhat pulverous in their
factures, and scarcely ever contain within them any residue not decomposed. In short,
the former lavas have undergone less change by the sulphureous acid« than the latter.
When I first examined on the spot the fragments of these two lavas, I could not per-
ceive by the taste any symptom of the sulphate of alumine ; but when I had con-
veyed my specimens to Pavia, together with other volcanic substances, and placed
them in my cabinet, on large tables, after some months I observed the following ap-
pearances :
In the lavas of Catrico and its vicinity, which had been less affected by the acids, I
could discover nc trace of alum ; but in the other lavas of the same situation, which
had been more changed by the said acids, I perceived the sweetish and astringent taste
of that salt ; and could discover a whitish thin coat of the same, which entirely in-
crusted them.
At the end of six months the thickness of this coat was a quarter of a line ; after
which, I did not perceive it to encrease in thickness. I made new fractures in these lavas,
and continually discovered new coats of the sulp>-^te of alumine ; and at the time I now
write, which is twenty-seven months since I brought the specimens of i^va from Ischia,
they still retain a thin saline crust. I have also satisfactorily ascertained the true nature
of this sulphate of alumine, by the ordinary chemical proofs.
As to the second species of lava, it never at any time exhibited any sign of the pre-
sence of this sulphate ; nor have I been able to obtain it by calcination, and a method
similar to that which is employed in the territory of Civita Vecchia for extracting olum
from such argillaceous stones. . .; •.
:.'i
^1,.
ly THE TWO SIC'ILlliS.
53
These observations however sufficiently prove, that thisvahiahlc salt mij;ht still be
obtained at Isrhia ; nor should it excite surprise that, when on the spot I could not dis-
cover it by the taste ; since the humidity of the night, the dew, and still more the rains,
had dissipated it as fast as it effloresced. As the species of decomposed lavu in which
I discovered it, is found in very large quantities on the Epopeo, this branch of com-
merce, which has been so long neglected in Ischia, might doubtless be revived with
very great advantage.
Besides the places I have mentioned, I examined this island in many others, without
discovering any novelty worthy of remark ; but I could not entirely satisfy myself with
such excursions. When I first formed the design of attentively examinmg Ischia and
the Eolian isles, I resolved not only to make my researches in their interior parts, but to
coast their shores in a boat, landing at such places as appeared the most suitable to my
inquiries. In this manner I met with many volcanic bodies, which I should have
sought in vain within the island ; cither because they do not exist there, or because they
are rendered inaccessible by the rocks and prer>nices with which they are surrounded,
or which they themselves form. The coasts of the volcanic isles are also clothed with
lavas, which run out into the sea, and which in some places, by tracing them upwards,
discover the crater or mouth from which they have issued. Lastly, by coasti ig the
shores of the islands, we may be enabled to determine whether the prismatic lav is owe
their origin to the sea ; many writers of repute having asserted that the regularity of
d^ieir form arises from the sudden congelation that takes place on their precipitating into
the sea- water, which causes them to take the shape of regular prismatic columns ; a con-
figuration which they affirm is only found in places adjoining to the sea.
For these reasons I determined, after having examined the higher parts of the island,
to proceed to consider the lower ; and took my departure from Lacco by water, coasting
the island on the left The first mountain which presented itself was the Vico, partly
formed of tufa, and partly of two currents of lava, which descend into the sea. The
colour of the first, which is of a horn-stone base, is between the gray and iron colour :
it is of an unequal grain, earthy, and moderately hard; and abounds in feltspars, some
in thin plates, others in prisms, and both conspicuous for their brilliancy.
The other lava, which is of the same base, and contains similar feltspars, is less com-
pact, more earthy, and consequently less hard : its colour is partly cinereous, and part-
ly gray. These two lavas, in their descent, have raised themselves into little mounts,
and are of a considerable thickness. ' '; " ,
Farther on is Monte Zaro, formed towards the sea by a river of lava extending a mile
in length, and nearly two in breadth. It appears to have been generated by several
successive eruptions, which have consolidated one after tlie other. The base of this lava
is horn-stone, and it contains irJca and fekspars. It is various in its colour, being in
some parts of the current of a more or less reddish blue, in others cmereous, and in
others white. The mica, which is black, and especially conspicuous in tJie white pieces,
though it has not undergone fusion, has lost its lustre, and acquired a much greater
de^ee of firiability than it naturally has. The same has not happened to the feltspars,
which are as well preserved as if they had never been exposed to tlie fire. They give
sparks plentifully with steel, have a beauteous changeable lustre, are of a vitreous
semi-transparent whiteness, and being broken, are detached with difficulty. This spe-
cies of lava so abounds with them, that they occupy the full half of its volume. The
greater part are prisms.
Another lava makes a part of the same current of Monte Zaro. This, though it is
likewise of a horn-stone base, differs from the former by being one-third less heavy, and
N
54
SPAtLANZANl's TRAVELS
u
of an earthy appearance ; wlicrcas that of the other is ^lomenhat vitreous. Its colour
ill the more internal parts is reddish ; but in the cxtcnial an ochreous j ellow. On the
surface especially it is manifestly decomposed ; for it is become so soft that it may be
Hcrapcd with a knife. But the cause which has produced this superficial decomposition
in the lava has not injured the feltspars, which are extremely perfect, and in this lava
may be easily extracted to examine their figure, which is hexagonal with rhoinboidal
faces. Some of them are half an inch in length, though others are not more than a
line.
'I'he bottom of Monte Zaro, which is washed by the sea, is covered with a vitreous
sand ; which viewed with a lens, appears to consist of a number of particles of feltspars,
>vhich by liquefaction have had their angles blunted, and been reduced to a roundish
figure. They belong to the feltspars of the last mentioned lava.
From the termination of Monte Zaro to the beginning of Monte Imperatore is a long
and ample tract, almost entirely tufaceous, scattered over witli rapillo, as the Neapolitatis
call it ; or as a naturalist would say, with fragments of pumice.
The side of Monte Imperatore which over-hangs the sea, derives its origin from a
ver}- singular species of lava. I have already spoken of the abundance of feltspars in the
lava of Monte Zara ; but in this they arc found so prodigiously numerous, that at first
view they apjiear to constitute the entire substance. It is necessary to break it, and con.
sidcr the pieces attentively, to perceive that it has a base, which is of a yellowish earthy
horn-stone, easily friable, to very small quantities of which the feltspars are feebly attach-
cd. Their crystallization is in rhoniboidal faces of various sizes, from a line to three
quarters of an inch. To this little earthy base are likewise attached various small scales
of black hexsedrous mica.
The same Monte Imperatore presents us on the side of the sea with large quantities
of another lava ; which, excepting a very few particles of yellow mica, and some still
fewer microscopic feltspars, may be considered as simple. This likewise has for its
base the horn-stone. 1 he lava appears to have issued from the mouth of the volcano at
diiferent times, as we find currents which have flowed over currents, intermixed in a
strange and confused manner.
Leaving the Monte Imperatore, we next arrive at the Calle di Panza ; a place on the
shvore from which rises a very hi^h and large rock of lava, interrupted by some protuber-
anc°s, that attract the eye at a distance and invite observation, which they certainly me-
rit, a5 they consist of beautiful groups of numerous rough rhomboidal feltspars, some two
inches; in length. They are of a yellowish white, transparent in a slight degree, of a
vitreous api^earance, a changing aspect, a foliatin? texture, and manifest their hardness
by the quantity of sparks they give with steel. Many hundreds of them grouped toge-
ther, form roundish masses of half a foot, a foot, and two feet in thickness, which at
their lovi'cr extremity are set in the lava. Though, as has been said, they are very hard ;
yet by the means of certain fissures they contain, they may easily be divided into small
pieces, either of the parallelopipedon or rhomboidal form. Whence it appears that they
have been injured by some external agent, but which seems to have had no relation to
sulphureous acid vapours, as we do not perceive the smallest indication of these, cither
in the feltspars or in the lava which contains them. This agent however, whatever it
may have been, has produced a considerable effect on the lava, which is corroded in
every part ; and it is in consequence of its being so deeply corroded, that the groups of
feltspars have been left uncovered, so that they may easily with an iron point be extracted
entire.
: i;}.f^'-
.._u....
IN THE TWO 8ICIMES.
55
This fact appeared to inc the more cUscrving of remark, ns in all my former volcanic
restarches I had never nji t with any similar : nor indeed have I since ; the fehspars of
other lavas being never grou|H:d, or forming a kind of tumours, but scattered and distri-
buted within them in equal (lunntities. Hut in what manner are we to consider these
tumours ? Arc they extraneous bodies that have been by accident included within the
lava while it was in a fluid state ? This is possible ; but it appears to me much more
natural to suppose that they appertained to the stony substance which has been changed
intolavuby the violence of the fire. I would therefore thus explain this phenomenon.
Since as we have already observed, the feltspars (and the same may be amrmed of the
shoerls) are not the produce or consequence of the fire, as they are found to exist in
many of the primordial rocks ; it appears most probable that thejr were formed within
those rocks when they were in a state of fluidity, or at least sufficiently approaching it.
I mean to say, that then the integrant particles of the feltspars by their powerful affi-
nity, united in crystallized masses. Where they were at a certain distance from each
other they united, forming complete crystals ; but where they were thickly clustered,
their tumidtuary union produced groips of crystals, the greater part of which were of
irreg; 'ar forms. The same may be ob^erv^d in salts, stones, and especially in quartzosc
and sparry crystals. Thus, with respect to the feltspars in this lava : they are contained
in every part of it ; and where there is any space interposed between them, their crystal-
lization is perfect ; but very imperfect in their groups I have described, and probably
from the cau^e suggested above.
This lava, like the preceding, has for its base the horn-stone ; and the external appear-
ance of its current resembles that of a stream which precipitating from a height, has been
suddenly congealed and hardened by cold. It abounds therefore in inequalities, eleva-
tions, and descents ; and on observmg its principal track, which passes by the Calle di
Punza, we are led to expect that tlw aperture whence it flowed lies higher in the direc-
tion of that place where it is in fact .*bund.
A strong wind rising from the south, though it did not prevent me from coasting thok
island, hindered me from landing, as f.here was danger of being dashed on some rock by
the violence of the waves. I could therefore only observe at a distance a variety of la-
vas, and a great quantity of tufa, which being continually beaten and diminished by the
waves, form precipices and cliffs hanging over the sea.
I however continued my researches by removing to the northern side of the island,
where I was sheltered from the wind ; but I did not find that the volcanic productions
to be met with here presented any novelty. They were almost all of the hom-stonc
base, and filled as usual with cr)'stallized feltspars.
I did not fail to collect and examine the sand of the other parts of the island where
I landed, as well that of the shore near Mpnte Zaro. I found it as I expected, to be
of the same nature with the volcanic productions at the foot of which it was found. The
greater portion of the sand consisted however of small fragments of feltspars ; that being
the stone which most abounds in these lavas, and which best resists the vicissitudes of
the seasons, and every extrinsic injury.
I must not omit to mention the ferruginous sand which we meet with in many parts
of the island, and which is especially abundant on the sea-shore. It not only moves the
magnetic needle, but is strongly atiracted by the load- stone. This sand is well known
in Naples and other places ; but one of its qualities which I discovered with the assistance
of a lens, has not to my knowledge been hitherto observed. At the first view I imagined
with the generality of naturalists, that it must consist of very niinute particles of iron, of
entirely irregular shape, like those of iapidarious sands. Such in fact, they appeared to
\
56
SPALLANZANI*! TIAVELS
i.'l
it
the naked eye ; but, by the nid of a (pod Icna, I discovered with pleasing surprise, tliat
every ffra'wx was the fragment of a crystal, or a complete 8|icciilar crystal of iron. Of
the latter there were not more than tnrec or four among cveiy hundred grains. These
small material crystals are formed of two quadrangular pyramids united at the base, and
every side of the pyramid is a rectangular or isocles triangle. But in general we meet
with only the fragment of a crystal, and perceive that the part wanting has been destroyed
by the action of the waves of the sea on the ferruginous sand ; many of the grains ex-
hibiting their angles blunted, and having assumed a globose figure.
This snnd is not confined to Ischia ; it is likewise found in considerable quantities on
the shore of Pozzuolo. But what is its origin ? It is certain that this iron could not thus
have crystallized without having a base, or point of support ; and in the volcanized
countries, no substance presents itself more pro[x;r for such a base than the lava, on and
within which it has assumed this configuration : but it must be allowed that this lava has
been destroyed by length of time, since, among the innumerable specimens I have ob-
served in these countries, I have not found one which exhibited similar martial crystals.
While making the circuit of this island, I continually had in my recollection the opi.
nion of those naturalists who, as I have mentioned above, maintain that the formation
of prismatic lavas owes its origin to the sudden immersion of the flowing lava into the
water. I could not have wished a better opportunity to /orm a judgpnent on this hy-
pothesis, than I here found ; where a multitude of currents of lava, in different direc-
tions, appear to have rushed into the sea, in which they are still visible to a considerable
depth. But 1 did not meet with one that had assumed any such regular form, or any
other resembling it ; either among the lavas above the water, those which touch it»
surface in their descent, or those immersed within it» as far at least as the eye could
discern.
From the observations I made while coasting this little island, I was likewise strongly
induced to doubt of a fact expressly asserted by M. Andria, in these words ; ^* The lavas,
in some places near the sea shore, are found full of holes made by the pholades ; at
least I am of opinion they are to be attributed to those animals, though I could not find
in them any fragments of their shells."
He then immediately proceeds to reason on this fact : " It is manifest that the pho-
lades were directed by instinct to make their lodgements here ; but they could not do thu
till after a long time, when the lava was become fixed and solid."
I shall not venture expressly to contradict this assertion, as I was not able to examine
the whole shore of Ischia ; and, even if I had examined it, I should still have dis-
trusted my researches ; since I could not have been certain that I had explored the
precise places of which he speaks, as they are not distinctly described. I sliall only
candidly say, that I greatly fear there is some mistake, since I never met with any lavas,
or other volcanic substances, which had been made the habitation of the pholas, whether
by that name he understands the mytilus lithophagus or the pholas dactylus of Linnaeus.
In my researches relative to marine animab, I have given particular attention to those
which pierce and inhabit subaqueous stones. I have examined, with the utmost care,
the volcanic substances of Etna, which are bathed by the sea, those of the £olian isles,
and some of those of Vesuvius. Nothing is more frequent than to find on these, vari-
ous kinds of testaceous animals, as oysters, serpules, lepades, and various others of
the same specks ; but I never found them pierced by pholades, or any other animals
which corrode fossil substances. I have found these animals in places not volcanic,
though not in all, as I have observed that they never make their lodgements but in cal-
careous stones, of which kind the Ischian lavas, and in general, other lavas, are not»
IN THE TWO SICIMEti.
fT
I therefore incline to suuixrct that some other cavities, n-Hcmbling thofj which arc the
work of the pholades, have deceived M. Andria. I could at least wish that he would
ascertain the fact bv repeating his observations on the spot, as, should it bo cstablislud,
it would, in my opinion, Ix; the only example of the kind ever discovered in volcanized
Btones.
I employed three days in examining this island ; and, during my researches, carefully
observed whether I could discern any smoke or vapour arising from the ground, whence
it might be concluded that the volcanic conflagrations were not entirely extinguished ;
but I could not discover the least appearance of the kind, nor had any been observed
bv the oldest inhabitants of the vicinity, of whom I made the most careful inc^uiries.
l*he stoves of Ischia may, however, induce us to be of a contrary opinion. It is well
known that these stoves are filled with warm aqueous vapours, which continually issue
from cracks and fissures in the lava, and which, though they have some of the noxious
qualities common to volcanic exhalations, are extremely beneficial in many disorders.
These certainly can only be produced by a heat which, whatever may Ije the cause of
it, raises the subterraneous water in va|)our.
This island, when it was first produced by conflagrations in ancient, and, to us, un-
known times, must have been of much greater extent than it is at present. The southern
tide, exposed to a sea which beats against it without any interposing obstacle, and
formed in many places of tufa, one of the least hard of volcanic substances, must have
been considerably worn away and diminished ; and this diminution must continually in-
crease. Time, which changes and destrc^s every thing, has likewise produced a great
alteration in the interior parts of the island. From the summit of Epopee, we discover
R number of conical eminences ; but their internal craters no longer exist, nor do we
find in Ischia incontestible traces of a single one, since those depths and ample cavities,
those resemblances of theatres and amphitheatres, which we observe around us, may be
equally the effect of fire or water.
I shall conclude these observations by an important reflection on the volcanic ma-
terials of Ischia. These arc different Irom those of the other Phlegrean fields. Except
the mountain Vesuvius, the extensive plain on which the city of Naples stands, the
surrounding hills to the north, the north-west, and the west, the craters of the lakes
Agnano and Avemo, many parts of Solfatara, Monte Nuovo, the promontory ofMiseno,
Procidn, &c. they are the result of tufaceous substances. These are, in fact, not wanting
in Ischia ; but the predominant part of its composition is various kinds of rock, and
principally the hom-stone. The eruption of the Arso, likewijse, which is the last con-
flagration of which we have any knowledge, is composed of the same stone. The sub-
stances, therefore, which have furnished aliment to the different conflagrations of Ischia,
have had their centre in those ar^llaceous rocks, which by the above-mentioned erup-
tion in 1302 shewed that they were not then exhausted.
These rocks, as we have seen, abound in crystallized feltspars, which in the furnace
exhibit a Quality we rarely meet with in the feltspars of other lavas subjected to the same
degree of heat. I mean their fusibility. If we ex cept those of the Arso, which do not
^ield to the fire, all the feltspars of these lavas may be perfectly liquefied. The lava,
in which the feltspars are contained, acquires a clear colour, and becomes slightly trans-
parent; while in other parts it presents an opaque and imperfect enamel. If the quan-
tity of the feltspars included is more than double that of the lava, the product which
results is a true glass, but somewhat less transparent than factitious glass; but when
the feltspars are solitary, and not at all injured by the lava, like those of the Calle di
V^L. V. 1
■'1
MnAK'A^^w* •>*>•' •>.'•.> i-.^.4
irALLAHZANl'S TRAVILSt
I '
Panza, the glflHi is ncrrcct and extremely trnnspnrent. It has no colour, U very com.
pact, and givcb sparks strongly with steel. To bring it to this perfection, it requires a
tire of about two days. At the end of the first day, the feltspar is only reduced to a
paste, similar to porcelain ; the pieces then conglutinatc together ; many exhibit a semi,
vitrification, nnd the surfucc within the crucible is not horizontal and even, but has ris>
ings und cavities, according as the pieces huvq been put in: by continuing the fire, how.
ever it becomes level and smooth.
The prosecution of these experiments Induced me to attempt to fuse, with the some
degree of heat, two other fefisnurs which are not from volcanic countries ; the one being
from Mount St. Gothard, and the other from Baveno. Father Pini has the honour of
their discovery. The fint is in mass, of a shining white, foliated, and very hard, I kept
it in the furnace during eight-and-forty hours, but it had only contracted a slight superfu
cial vitreous apiiearance. When placed within two crucibles joined by their tops,
with charcoal entirely surrounding thrm, in a*furnace, the fire of which was violently
excited by the bellows for two hot'.;s, the angles of this feltspar became blunted, and thie
pieces attached together, contracting a smooth surfiice, and a milky whiteness, but
without any sensible fusion taking place in the internal parts.
The other feltspar, from Baveno, is crystallized in tetrahedrons prisms, opaque, less
hard than the former, and of a reddish yellow colour. After continuing forty-cVht
hours in the furnace, a slight conglutination took place in the pieces, which had acqu. ed
ii snowy whiteness.
On comparing these two feltspars and others contained in innumerable lavas, with
those of the Ischian lavas, we may conclude that it is very rarely that the fusion of these
stones can be obtained by the utmost heat of a glass furnace.
From these observations on the lavas of Ischia we likewise learn another truth. Mi-
neralogists have said that shoerls are more easily fusible than feltspars ; because they
have observed that the degree of heat in which the former fuse is insufficient to fuse th«
latter. But I have experienced that this assertion is not always true ; and it will be
seen in the course of this work, that the shoerls of some lavas will resist the same de-
gree of heat in which the feltspars of Ischia are completely fused. The cause of this
may be, either that the silex sometimes is less abundant in the feltsixirs thun in the shoerls,
or that their component principles art proportioned in such a manner, that the fusion
of some is facilitated more than that of others, or because they contain more iron, it
being well known that this metal promotes the fusion of stones.
. .^((ij.flilWf
■ ,i<f
I..'
i' V. t^,i-
• 1,,
•t,*i
ij
.fH.-
.■7 1. iin ,'v'»'J }»<?>*■ -via i>f<«;4ft
.i^f;h
,Vi<>f
IN TNK TWO IIClLICt.
'n
tt ' ■ • ■ ' >
n •
r
CHAPTER VI.
< •' * THE VALLKYOFMF.TELONA, NEAR CASllttTA.
The liiftt found in this valley, comnoiedof rragmcntn of pumice aurroMndcd hy calcareout earthit....
PicciMi of rnamct mixed with it....Thit tufa different from otlur volcanic tufas.... Probaliility
that it communicates with the volcnnoa of Na;)K'« and it^cnvironK, and p<:thitpn ulno with those
of tSc Agrb Komano and Tuscany.... Means promised to nicertnin whether the Hay of Naples
be the remains of an ancient volcanic crater, and to what distance within the sea the roots of
Motmt Vesuvius and thoae of Ischia extend.
AN exciireion from Naples to Caserta, and thence to the nclghhotiring aqueducts,
fumidhed me with an opportunity for new volcanic obucrvations. Some miles before
wc arrive at the small city of Caserta, ennobled by the superb royal (Nilacc, which may
be said to consist of four grand palaces united in one by the hand of a master, we meet
with calcareous earth, which continues to the aqueducts, distant six miles from that city,
and which are a prodigy of art. They consist of a large and magnificent bridge, of
the astonishing length of two miles, and of a proportionate breadth. Within this bridge
runs a wide canal, orouglit from a mountain at the distance of twcntv-six miles, which,
passing through subterranean conduits, skirts the side of the hill, and descends to Caserta,
near the Royal Gardens. As the neighbouring mountains abound in calcareous stone,
I was not surprised to find the pavement of the bridge formed of that stone ; but it
somewhat excited my attention when I perceived that the remainder of the edifice was
constructed with volcanic tufa, in which are mixed some pieces of enamel. Sir William
Hamilton has told us, that in the environs of Coaerta, below a stratum of vegetable earth
four or five feet in thickness, we meet with cinders, pumices, and fragments of lava ;
and that, on digging near the foundations of the above-mentioned aquedticts, volcanic
earths are discovered. I therefore first conjectured that the tufa had been procured
from these subterranean places ; an opinion in which I was confirmed by observing that
the whole country round was calcareous, not excepting the highest mountains, which
were, nearly all, of the same contexture and colour with the chains of hills between
Naples and Loretto. One of the inhabitants of this part of the country, however, as-
sured me that this tufii was dug from a plain, about a mile distant to the north, called
the Valley of Metelona, of which I was convinced, on repairing to the spot. This tufa,
in several places, lies in heaps on each side of the public road, principally near the Ta-
vcma, where we find the excavations, not within but above the ground, which have in
port supplied materials for these aqueducts. This tufa is extremely porous, and being im-
mersed in water attracts it forcibly, and with a slightly hissing sound, as is the case with
other bibacious bodies. Like tufiis in g^ iieral, it has a moderate weight and consistence,
is rough to the touch, and inclines to a yellow colour. But on a more minute examina-
tion, it discovers its original, and is found to be composed of a mixture of small frag-
ments of pumice, and any piece of it detached from the mass will be found to contain
fragments of that stone. It appears as if composed of small threads extended length-
wise, which viewed with the lens are found to be slender filaments, extremely fri^le,
and generally parallel to each other. It contains many cavities, within which the pumice
appears changed into vitreous bolls ; we likewise find little globes of pumice, which
have an external vitreous coat, butwhich, within, have preserved theijr fibrous nature;
V .' i2 y
.;
m
•PAtLANZAlfri TKAVILI
^
m,
ii
I*
It
lastly, in (lotne pArts or thi^ tuHi ure contained piercM or iioiici enamel, extremely friable,
shining, and intlicir fmclurcs rcMcml)liii)(U!iphultiim.
The tufu now deHcrilud is uf u ningulur (|uulily ; nt Icawt in my tmviU throvrgli the
Two Sicilies, I have not found any rencnibting it. The others arc usunily of an argilla-
ceous base ; this, as has been said, is a composition of fragments of pumice. Hence wc
may easily conceive that the results produced by the furnace must be diflcrent. The
tufa of Metelona afforded a true enamel, but the others remained infusible.
The edges of the tufa, or rather of the broken and half pulverized pumices, are sur-
rounded with calcareous stone. There is, however, no doubt that these pimticcs, besides
having deep roots, extend likewise laterally among the stone to a great distance. These
volcanic matters tiave probably an immediate communication witn the volcanos of Na>
pies and i*s environs, as also with those of the Agro Romano, and perhaps also with
those of Tuscany, so as to forma soil entirely volcanized, of immense extent.
Some have conjectured, and perhaps not without reason, that the great basin of the
sea, called the bay of Naples, in front of Capri, la the remains of an ancient volcanic
crater. It would contribute to the advancement of natural knowledge, were the bottom
to be explored, at various distances from tlie shore, by the means of such instruments
Bs are employed to fish up coral, and sometimea pieces of the rock on which it grows.
Should wc by such means discover a cavitv similar to an inverted funnel, or draw up
substances from the bottom, which shoula be known to owe their origin to fire, this
conjecture would become a well-founded opinion.
A portion of the roots of Mount Vesuvius are bathed by the sea. Who can sav how
far these roots may extend under the water ? The same may be remarked of Ischia,
which, perhaps, as some have conjectured, was anciently joined to Procida : it were to
be wished that we could obtain facts that might ascertain the truth of such conjectures.
It is well known how far Sir William Hamilton has extended the limitu of the vulcani-
zation of the Phlegrean fields, by land ; and there is no doubt but they might be still
more enlarged by sea. The ex|)eriment8 necessary for this are certainly dinicult, but
not im|}ossible. The industry oi two Italians of merit, the Count Ferdinaitdo Marsigli,
and Vitaliano Donuti, has made us acquunted with the nature of the bottom of some
parts of the Mediterranean and the Adriatic. In the course of thia work I shall state
what I have observed relative to the bottom of tlie famous strait of Messina, and that
in which the channels that separate the Eolian isles terminate. It is greatly to be wished,
for the advancement of volcanic knowledge, that the bottom of the sea near Nuplcs,^ and
the adjacent plucesj might be explored by similar experiments.
•J ;,
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II
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
61
CHAPTER VII.
JOURNEY TO MOUNT ETNA.
Comparison between Vesuvius and Etna....'rhe lavas of the latter volcano begin to appear, from
the sea, at the distance of thirty-seven miles from Messina....Difrerent epochs of the flowing of
these lavas....Modem Catania almost entirely built of lava ; as was the ancient city, which was
destroyed by an earthquake in 1693....Remtu*k8 on the observations of Mr. Brydnne, relative to
Etna....Uncertainty of the opinion of Count Borch, that the age of the lava may be calculated
by the quantity of vegetable earth produced by time.... Fruitless attempts to render cultivable
the eruption of 1669... .The thinness of the crust of vegetable earth, tne cause of the fertility
of the lower region of Etna....Monte Rosso.... Eructation of its hvas.... Abundance of shoerls
on this mountain....Chemical analysis of these shoerls.... Feltspars not always more difficult to
fuse than shoerls.... View from Monte Rosso of the whole current, which in 1669 flowed into
the sea.... Calamities suffered at different times by St. Niccolo dell Arena from the eruptions of
Etna... .Lavas of the middle region....Its great celebrity for luxuriant vegetation, and the lofti-
ness of its trecs....Great antiquity of these two region8....Grotta delle Caprc.^Nature of the
lavas of that grotto.
THOUGH Vesuvius, considered in itself, may be justly called a grand volcano,
and though, from the destruction and calamities it has at various times occasioned, it
has continually been an object of consternation and terror to the inhabitants of the
neighbouring country ; yet when it is compared with Etna it must lose much of its
celebrity, and appear so diminished, that if the expression may be allowed, it may be
called a volcano for a cabinet. Vesuvius does not, perhaps, rise higher than a mile above
the level of the sea ; and the whole circuit of its base, mcluding Ottajano and Somma,
is not more than thirty miles; while Mount Etna covers a space of one hundred and
eighty, and in its height above the sea considerably exceeds two miles. From the sides
of Etna other lesser mountains rise, which are as it were its oiFspring, and more than one
of which equals Vesuvius in size. The most extensive lavas of the latter mountain do
not exceed seven miles in length ; while those of Etna are fifteen or twenty, and some
even thirty miles in extent. The borders of the crater of Mount Etna are never less than
a mile in circuit, and according to the changes to which they are subject, sometimes two
or three miles ; it is even reported, that in the dreadful eruption of 1669 they were en-
larged to six.* But the circumference of the Vesuvian crater is never more than lialf a
mile, even when widest distended, in its most destructive conflagrations.f Lastly, the
earthquakes occasioned by the two volcanos, their eruptions, showers of ignited stones,
and the destruction and desolation they occasion, are all likewise proportionable to their
respective dimensions. We cannot therefore wonder that visits to Vesuvius should be
considered as undertakings of little consequence, and never be made public, except lavas
should have been flowing at the time; while a journey to Etna is considered as no tri..f
^» Borelli, Hist. Incend. -Etnae,an. 1669. .. •>,., V:r4 . ^^:*i
1 1 know not how M. Sage was led into so strange an error as to assert that the crater of Vesuvius
is n>?re than three miles in diameter (Elem. de Min. torn, l.^ Were this true, the circumference of
the ^^'e'lavian crater must be nearly ten miles> an extent which perhaps the crater of no volcano in
the world ever had.
M
K "iSi
'.■■-:< : .'■ ;» ■ »'
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I -raCT"
*''«"■<•■ lOr'«»#*''*^.TTr*»- •"
G2
SPALLANZANl's TRAVELS
f
^
I
vial enterprise, both from the difficulty of the way and the distance ; as from Catania,
whence it is usul to set out, it is thirty miles to the summit of Etna. On such a journey,
likewise, we have to pass tlirough three difterent clim.-^tes ; whereas to go from Naples to
Vesuvius should be rather called an excursion than a jouniey. We find also little dif-
ference bctM cen the temperature of the air at the bottom of this latter mountain, and
that of its summit. Notwithstandii'g these difliculties, however, the gigantic majesty of
the ciicilian volcano, its sublime elevation, and the extensive, varied, and grand pros-
pects its summit presents, have induced the curious, in every age, to ascend and exa*
mine it ; and not a few have transmitted to posterity the observations they have made
Uurijig their arduous journey.
These examples would alone have strongly excited me to make the same journey, and
similar researches ; but I had also a s'Ul more powerful incentive in the undertaking in
which I had engaged to travel through the Two Sicilies, in order to make observations
on the volcanos, among which Etna r'.ust principally claim my attention, as being the
largest and most stupendous of all that are, at present, in a state of conflagration on the
surface of the globe. I was, likewise, induced to believe that, notwithstanding so many
journeys to this mountain have already appeared, I might still publish mine ; and that
for several reasons. First, because I flatter myself that I shall be able to state some ob-
servations which will be, in part at least, new to the reader ; secondly, because I shall
thus have an opportunity to examine many things related by the travellers who have
preceded me, which do not always appear to bear the stamp of truth ; and lastly, because
my remarks may furnish subjects for useful discussion.
I took my departure from Messina for Catania, a distance of sixty miles by sea, in a
small vescel, coasting close upon the land all the way, to examine the shore. On the
first of September I landed at the distance of fifteen miles from Messina, on a part of
the shore which forms there a headland, where mariners are accustomed sometimes to
make a short stay. The shore here was entirely of calcareous earth, except some pieces
of scattered detached lava. The latter production excited in me some doubts whether
the explosions of Etna had ever reached to so great a distance ; but the mariners who
were with me assured me, that these pieces of lava had been brought from the shore of
Catania by vessels who had taken them in as ballast, and left them here when they had no
farthr-r occasion for them, in consequence of having taken in other lading. Of the truth
of this account I was afterwards satisfied, as I found this lava perfectly similar to that
in the neighbourhood of Catania.
The real eruptions of this volcano begin first to appear, in the form of rocks of dif-
ferent elevations, which overhang the sea, at the distance of thirty-seven miles from
Messina, on the way to Catania ; and at the same distance Etna is faintly seen to smoke,
and majestically raises its head above the other mountains of Sicily. We had a clear
view of it, the sky being free from clouds ; and I began to entertain a hope that I
should be able to visit its highest summit, since it was not, as it frequently is, covered
with snow. ' ' ■ ^
Before we anived at Catania, I landed at several places, to examine the shore, which
is entirely formed of lava. I was particularly attentive to its course and changeable
structure. The greater part of the lavas proceed in a right line from the body of
Mount Etna, with various inclinations to the level of the sea ; and many of them, hav-
ing been broken by the violent shocks of the waves, exhibit their various stratification, and
shew the different epochs in which they have flowed, by the difference of their strata,
and the coatings of vegetable earth more or less thick interspersed between those strata.
-- ■•?
^rsfli
IN THK TWO SICILIES.
63
All these lavas, at least those which I examined, are similar with respect to their Ixise,
as they all derive their origin from the horn-stoiic, and all contain within them feltspar
crystals.
I employed two days in this coasting voyage from Messina to Catania. The mate-
rials of which the latter city is built are such as might beex|)ected in a volcanized coun-
try where stones of any other than a volcanic nature arc not to be found but at a con-
siderable distance. The edifices, both ? ublic and private, and even the walls of the
city, are principally of lava ; which has furnished materials not only lor the modern
Catania, but also for that more ancient city, which was entirely destroyed by an earth-
quake in the year 1693 ; at least its ruins when dug up have all been found to consist
of lava. We learn likewise from observations anterior to that fatal period, that lava
has been met with under its foundations on the occasion of digging for wells ;* nor is
it possible for us to say to what depth the roots of the Etnean eruptions extend. If we
only take a view of the surface of the territory of Catania, v/e every where meet with im-
mense accumulations of lava, among which the most conspicuous are the remains of that
torrent which poured from one of the sides of Etna in 1669, inundated, \vith wide-
spreading ruin, a space of fourteen miles in length, and nearly four in breadth rose over
the walls of Catania, burying under it a part of the city and at length precipitated itself
into the sea.
It would be a superfluous labour were I to proceed to give a long and minute descrip<
tion of this torrent of lava, which has been already so amply described by Mr. Brydone,t
count Borch,! Sir William Hamilton, § and Riedesel;|| though I cannot say that
the relations of four travellers, who repeat the same things after each other, were much
wanted ; since our illustrious countryman, the Italian Alphonsus Borelli, who was pre-
sent at the time when this dreadful torrent of fire burst forth, wrote a work expressly
to describe it. IT It appears to me preferable to present the reader with the view, with
} Lettrcs sur la Sicilc.
He cites four observations
• • Borelli ubi sup. t Tour through Sicily.
•' $ Campi Phlegraei. || Travels in Sicily.
% Mr. Brydone is the only one of these travellers who mentions Borelli.
from him ; but perverts thorn, to give them more an air of ihe marvellous.
He says, firstjthataccording to the testimony of Borelli, "after the most violent struggles and shaking
of the whole island, when the lava at last burst through, it sprang up into the air to the height of sixty
palms."
Mr, Brydone I hope will pardon niC, -.v'^en I tell him that Borelli, here, certainly, only speaks of
some local shocks, and tremblings of ce-.uun places in the vicinity of the volcano, and by no means of
a shaking felt over the Avhole island. As for the lava springing up into the air to the height of sixty
palms, there is not a word about it in the whole book.
Mr. Brydono, likewise, makes Borelli say, that " for many weeks the sua did not appear, and the
day seemed to be changed into night."
But all we find in Borelli's account, relative to this darkness, is, that " on the 8th of March, an hour
before sun-set, the air, in the suburb of Pidaria, and some other neighbouring places, became some-
what thick and dark, with a darkness similar to that which is caused by some partial eclipses of the sun."
The two other passages, which 1 omit for the sake of brevity, are perverted.
Mr. Brydone, indeed, through his whole jouniey to Etna has sufficiently shewn his attachment to the
marvellous, and, where that has failed him, has had recourse to the aid of his playful fancy to furnish
him with extravagant, though ingenious, inventions of the ridiculous kind. The story of the veil of
St. Agatha is an example ; which veil, according to him, the people of Catania consider as an infallible
remedy against volcanos, but which at tlie time of a great eruption " seemed to have lost its virtue ;
the torrent bursting over the walls, and sweeping away the image of every saint that was placed there
to oppose it." But would it not have been more commendable to have furnished his readers with real
information, instead of fitliug so many pages with these trivial and insipid pleasantries ? In fact, after
having read his five letters ou Etna, what idea do they enable us to form of the nature of this mountain ?
G4
srALLANZAKI'S TRAVELS
some imijrovcment which this celebrated physician of Naples caused to be taken on the
spot at the time, and which in the most natural manner represents this river cf fire,
such as it appeared at its beginning, during its progress, and at its end ; it will
likewise render much more intelligible several particulars of which I propose hereafter
to treat.
Having mentioned these travellers, I shall make some observations on what has been
said by count Borch relative to the changes that have taken place in the lava of 1669,
and those of some other eruptions preceding and posterior to that time. These changes
r.onsist in the vegetable earth which begins to appear on them, generated in part from
the decomposition of the lava, and in part from the destruction of the plants, which,
after a certain time, are produced upon it. From the quantity of this earth he deduces
a rule to judge of the age of the lava ; which he endeavours to prove by examples of
different Etnean lavas, of various epochs, which are covered with more or less of this
earth in proportion as they are more or less ancient. Thus, a lava produced by an erup-
tion in 1157, wlun he examined it in December 1776, had a coating of earth twelve
inches thick ; another which had flowed in 1329, had one of eight inches ; on that of
1669, was found more than one inch ; while the most recent, that of 1766, was entirely
destitute of such earth. Whence he concludes, that from the antiquity of the lavas, as-
certained by the quantity of earth with which they are covered, may be deduced the an-
tiquity of jthe world.
As this argument is certainly somewhat specious, and has L •''n employed by others, it
merits to be discussed. We undoubtedly know from repeated observations, that lavas,
after a series of years, are invested with a stratum of earth proper for vegetation ; and
the fact has already been proved in this work : nor can it be denied that this earth is ori-
ginally produced by the decomposition of the lavas, and that of the plants which have
taken root upon it. The same may be observed in mountains not volcanized, the stones
of which (at least very frequently) being long exposed to the action of the air and sea-
sons, are resolved into an earth proper for the growth of vegetables. It would not,
therefore, admit of a doubt that the more ancient lavas must afford a greater quantity
of earth than those of more recent date, were every exterior circumstance equal ; were
they all of the same consistence and qualities, and all equally affected by the fire. But
how greatly they difter in these respects we liave already seen, and shall see still more in
the progress of this work. Such differences, therefore, must render the argument of
count Borch extremely inconclusive ; since a lava of an earlier age may luve much
less earth than one of later date ; a circumstance which the chevalier Gioeni told me he
had frequently observed in several of the lavas of Etna. '';■. •' i r »
Among the lavas adduced by count Borch, in favour of his hypothesis, is that which
flowed in 1329, which when he examined it, that is four hundred and forty-seven years
after its eruption, was covered with eight inches of earth. Yet the lava of the Arso, in
Ischia, which rushed into the sea in 1302, when I saw it in 1788, still preserved in every
part its hardness and sterility, f
It appears, likewise, extraordinary, that this writer should not have noticed the remains
of another current of lava near Catania, which has been employed for iwo thousand
I do not mean, by what I have said, indiscriminately to condemn the whole work of Mr. Brydone.
His Tour frequently contains facts and observations well desTving attention. It is elegantly written,
and the aiitlior was well acquainted with the secret of excitijig our curiosity, and rendering his narra-
tive interesting ; though frequently, with that kind of interest which seems more suitable to romance
than to authentic histor\'. Kv-'' '-. "»*w'.:«' . -.; .»^.iv..y>f. ., i.^.. ,,...,.,,,* . ■'''''''_•
tChap.V. -'■ *-"■■■ V jtlvvi:,..... ,..-:Wi :<ii2 . • j:-^; ^.:.;;'^;' ".r . u; v';_«(''««^'
IN THC TWO SICILIRS.
65
years as materials for buildings, and which retains such hardness, thut where the labour
pf the cultivator has not been exerted it still continues entirely sterile.
With respect* to the lava of 1669, I cannot conceive how the count could attribute
to it an inch or more of earth, since it is entirely destitute of it. Were this the fact,
the surface of the lava must at least, in some few places, exhibit some blades of grass,
or small plants,*as a stratum of earth an inch thick would be sufHcient to nourish them :
but we find it, on the contrary, destitute of every vegetable, except a few lichens, which
we know will take root and grow on the hardest bodies, and such as entirely resist all
effect of the air, as quartzes, and even on the smooth and slippery surface of vitreous
substances. The count, very possibly, examined this lava in low hollow places, into
which the rain-water had drained, and brought down with it some particles of earth, that
might have formed a thin stratum.*
Before I travelled into Sicily, I had read the eulogium bestowed on the prince of
Biscaris, by count Borch, among other reasons, because he had exerted himself in at-
tempts to ctiange the face of the lava of 1669, and transform the ungrateful soil into a
fruitful garden. When I arrived in the island, I admired the effect of human art. In
many places the hardest lava had been opened by the force of mines ; while in others
it had been broken into extremely minute fragments, into which, when collected in
certain receptacles, several kinds of useful plants had been inserted : but, unfortunately,
they always perished, though they were repeatedly planted. Some few I found living,
as here and there a pomegranate or an almond tree ; but these were extremely weak
and languid, though the broken lava among which they had taken root was mixed with
vegetable earth. A species of the Indian figf alone throve and flourished; but it is
well known that this shrub delights in lavas, and that it will take root, grow to a consi-
derable height, and bear fruit plentifully, on the most sterile. In the course of this
work I shall have occasion to treat more at length on this subject. At present tliere
only remains a large pond which has been dug in the lava of a considerable depth,
and communicating with the water of the sea, in which are preserved different kinds
of fish.
After having, for a considerable time, examined the environs of Catania, assisted by
the chevalier Gioeni, to whom I owe the most lively and sincere gratitude for nume-
rous favours, I set out for Mount Etna, on the morning of the 3d of September, ac-
companied, among others, by Carmelo Pugliesi, and Dominico Mazzugaglia, two
guides extremely well acquainted with the roads. I performed the greater part of the
journey on foot, only riding when I found myself fatigued. I think it scarcely necessary
to mention, what has been so often repeated by travellers, and therefore must be so well
known, 'that the lower region of Mount Etna, which extends through twelve miles of
the ascent towards the summit, is incredibly abundant in pastures and fruit trees of
every kind.j:
It is well known that this fertility is to h" ascribed to the lava, which, softened by
length of time, has produced a most fertile soil, thus compf nsating past calamity by pre-
" With respect to the uncertainty and fallacy of any cait stations deduced from the greateror less quan-
tity of vegetable earth which may cover lavas, the reader may consult the virork of M. Dolomieu above
cited.
t Cactus opuntia. Linn. .. • .. ; 'j.j'
t The fertility of this region has been celebrated by the grater part of those authors who have wlit-
ten concerning Etna; among which the most distinguished are Strabo, and Fuzello, but »bove all
Peter Benibo, who, after having visited the mountain, composed an ingenious dialogue on the subject.
It may excite some surprise, ^aX, after so many descriptions of this region, and after Borelli, above a
century before, had thought such a description superfluous, Mr- Brydone should imt^ine it worth
■while once more to recount the prodigies of this fertile soil.
VOL. V. K
jLm.
SPAlLANZANl'S TRAVELS
fulness. To this, however, the industry of man and arts of agriculture have
contributed ; as well as the corruption and decomposition of vegetables,
live so great n share in the fructilicution of the earth. These lavas, however, in
laces, still manifest their native wildncss, rising above the useful soil, in cra^B;y
and tumours, or discovering their naked sides on the banks of rapid torrents. On
declivities, where the earth has but little depth, we find trees, the roots of which
having been able to penetrate the unyielding lava, have turned aside, and extended
horizontally along the surface of the soil. Whence it evidently appears that the fertility
of the inferior region depends entirely on a crust of earth, more or less thick, without
which the same barrenness must take place, which, it cannot be doubted, once prevailed.
At ten in the morning, 1 arrived at the village of Nicolosi (Plate I,) near Monte
Rosso, which formerly was a plain, when in 1669, a new vortex opened, and disgorged
u dreadful torrent of lava, which poured headlong down until it reached the sea, where
it formed a kind of promontory ( Y). It would have been a great omission not to have
visited this mountain, though it lies a little out of the direct road to Etna. Besides the
memorable eruption which has been mentioned more than once, other objects relative
to it, which I had here an opportunity of examining on the spot, attracted my attention.
Among these was that quantity of black sand which was thrown out in that eruption
from the new volcanic mouth, which still remains, and covers an extensive plain be*
yond Nicolosi, where once verdant trees flourished ; some of which still preserve re-
mains of life, and raise their leafy branches above the changing sand. This sand, which
covers a circuit of two miles round Monte Rosso, when it was first ejected from the
vortex, extended over a space of fifteen miles ; and covered the ground to such a height,
that the vines and shrubs were entirely buried. Some of the finer particles of it were
carried by the southerly wind even to Calabria, where they fell thick in many places, as
we are informed by Borelli.
As I approached the Mountain, I found the depth of the sand greater, and it became
a considerable impediment in my way, as my leg frequently sank into it up to the knee.
It is well known that this mountain is forked, being so formed by the eruption, at which
time it was called by the country people, Monte della Ruina (the Mountain of Ruin)
and afterwards Monte Rosso (the Red Mountain) probably because some parts of it ap-
peared of that colour. Borelli tells us, that its circumference at the base does not exceed
two miles, and that its perpendicular height is not more than one hundred and fifty
paces ; while Sir William Hamilton estimates its height at a mile, and its circuit at least
at three. From the observations I have been able to make, I must prefer the estimate
of the Italian mathematician to that of Sir William.
The accurate accounts of the same Borelli inform us, that the gulf whence this
eruption issued opened on the 11th of March, 1669, about the time of the setting of
the sun ; that the lava burst forth tliat same night ; and that, on the 13th of the same
month, a shower of scoriae and sand began to be cast into the air, which continued three
months, and formed Monte Rosso. From among a hundred or more mountains which
rear their heads on the sides of Mount Etna, this is the only one with the history of the
formation of which we are acquainted.^ ,
* Sir Willium Hamilton, in his journey to Etna, speaking of this eruption, cites an account of it by
the curl of Winchelsea, who was present at the time, but which is more marvellous than true. He
did not approHch the place, but only beheld the eruption from the towers of Catania. He tells us,
that the fire divided one mountain into two; and that it was composed, as were the stones and ashes
vomited out (besides other principles) of mercury, lead, bronze, and every other kind of metal,
which ulune would be suiilcicut to deprive t^us account of all credit.
%-,-^..^...
*• **>*-t..^-a^ ^.^^. .
IN THE TWO SICIJMZS.
67
On examining this bifiircattd mountain at the top, on the sides, and at the liottom,
especially in those places where the rain-waters had produced furrows and dcepexcava-
tions, I (bund it composed of different scoriae and sand, that is to say, lava that had un.
dergone various modifications, and from that same lava which has formed the immense
current, as sufficiently appears from \'ie identity of their principles. The base of this
lava is the horn-stone : it is of a gray colour, dry in its fractures, rough to the touch, of
a grain moderately fine, gives sparks with steel, and sounds when struck. It serves as u
matrix to a great number of felt-spathousc and shocrlaceous crystallizations.* If from
this lava we turn our eyes to scoriae, of which Monte Hosso is principally composed,
wc observe the same kind of base, containing, in like manner, shoerls and feltspars ; ex-
cept only that the scoriae have more lightness and friability, from their greater number
of pores, which gives them the resemblance of certain spunges ; besides that they have
a kind of vitreous appearance, and that the pieces on the surface are scabrous ; differ-
ences which arise from the scorite having been more changed than the lavas by the activity
of the fire, and that of the elastic gases.
When the volcano threw up a deluge of scoriae, a great number of them must clash,
. be broken, and reduced to powder ; thus producing showers of sand : whence the sand
that covers the environs of Monte Rosso, which, from the examinations I have made 1
find to consist only of triturated scoriae. The lava of Monte Rosso, the scoriae, and the
sand consist, therefore, of the same component parts.
i,,. M. Doiomieu having found, at Monte Rosso, great numbers of detached shoerls, of
.the same kind with those which enter into the lava of that current ; that is to say, black,
lamellated, flat, of a hexaedrous prismatic form, and, for the most part, terminated by a
^dihedrous pyramid, he thought, with apparent reason, that they at first entered into the
. body of the lava ; he therefore endeavoured to explain in what manner they were sepa-
rated from it: having recourse to the sulphur, which, according to him, hud scorified
< the lava, but had not been able to produce the same effect on the shoerls, from the small
, quantity of iron they contain, which, consequently, remained free and detached.
It is incredible how grc X a number of these loose shoerls are to be met with about
Monte Rosso, and particularly on its top. When I was there, the sun shining clear, I
saw them, in several places, sparkling on the ground, and I had only slightly to move
( thescorije and sand, to bring them to light by hundreds. They were exactly such as
, they are described by the French nattiralist. I formed a design to ascertain the truth
, of the theory by which he has endeavoured to explain the separation of the shoerls from
, the lava, and when I returned to Pavial made several experiments for that purpose. As
his hypothesis was that it proceeded from the shoerls containing a less quantity of iron
i than the lava, it was to be expected that the magnetic needle would be less affected by
1 the former than the latter. From the experiments I made both with the lava, or more
,i properly speaking, its base, and with the detached shoerls, I perceived that the needle
, was attracted by the former at the distance of one-fourth, one-third, and even one-half
./ota line, while the attractive force of the detached shoerls acted on it at the distance of
, one-fourth of a line, one-third of a line, and a whole line; one shoeri even gave mani-
fest signs of attraction at the distance of a line and a half. It is scarcely necessary to
remark, that in such experiments every accessary circumi^tance ought to be equal ; that
is, the pieces of lava ought to be equal in size, and of the same configuration with the
* I have given a brief description of this lava, as, in the present case, it seemed necessary ; but, in
future, I do not propose to describe the lavas and other productions uf Eum ; both because a month
^^ .irould not have been sufficient to have made a proper examination of them all, much less the short
' . ' time I was able to emplo/ in this journey, and because M. Doiomieu has already undertaken to give
this description.
. . K 2
':•>*
■•s;**, .... .
6t
spallanzakTs iravkls
detached shocrls. These experiments prevented my adopting the theory in question,
since they shewed that the martial principle was much mure abundant in the shocrla
than in their base ; contrary to the nypothcsis of M. Dolomicu. Rcflcctin|^^ however,
on the phenomenon of the isolated shocrls, another mode of explanation occurred to
me, which I shall here submit to the judgment of the learned reader.
Experience has shewn that the volcanic fire which melted the lava was incapable of
melting the shocrls, as they grc found within it as completely crystallized, with asigles as
acute, and of the same lustre, as those which are detached among the sand and scoria.
As they arc therefore so refractory to the fire, and are, besides, of a difTcrent specific
gravity from the lava, it may reasonably be supposed that, when the latter was melted,
and in the eruption of 16C9, forced by elastic vapours to a prodigious height, where it
was separated into small particles, numbers of shoerls were detached from it, and fell,
isolated, partly within the crater, and partly around it. As these showers of fiery lava
continued three months, the number of shocrls which thus fell detached must have befrn
very consideraWe, as we, in fact, find them at present. '.„{,;!iii
The results produced by the furnace on these shoerls when detached, are very diflTerent
from those they exhibit when incorporated with the lava. In the former case they are
infusible, though they should remam there several days. When minutely triturated,
indeed, their particles will conglutinate together, but without forming a compact and
vitreous body. The fusion, on the contrary, is perfect in those which are enveloped in
the body of the lava. Monte Rosso, quite to the sea, abounds in such shoerls. A few
hours in the furnace are suificient to change them into a shining, compact, and extremely
hard enamel. Some lineament of the feltsptirs contained in the lava always remains ; but
it is impossible to discover any traces of the shoerls, they having formed, with their base,
which has passed into the state of enamel, a similar and homogeneous body. The base
of this lava, which, as we have stud, is of horn-stone, has therefore acted as a flux oa
the shoerls.
This experiment throws light on another subject of some importance, already men
tioned in Chap. V, which treats of Ischia ; where speaking of the fusion obtained in the
furnace of some feltspars, though detached, of some of the lavas of that island, I ob-
served that it is not always true that the fehspars are more difficult to fuse than shoerls,
as is generallv imagined. I then alluded to what is here detailed, though thb is not the
only place where that truth will be proved.
1 shall make another remark or two on these shoerls. They do not belong, exclusively,
to this lava of Monte Rosso, but are found in many others of Mount Etna.
I do not know that any attempt has been hitherto made to analyse them chemically.
I therefore undertook to ascertain their component principles by the process with asbes-
tine earth invented by Bergman. From one hundred docimastic pounds of these shoerls
I obtained the foUowiny: result :
^u Silex ... 34.5
-m Lime 18.7
?»»{J Iron 7.6
■fcV' Alum 12.4 ^
»*( Magnesia **» 11«0
»/
.w.J*.
'.Ijxii ■■Ildf/..
:d:£* /■>>,»*; ^-Xu^^l-nyi '«>-rt >»i,iO.^,'»f»-« fS" gy,^ 85.2*
a;
* It must be remarked, that besides the almost irreparable loss in manipulation, and that of the ifster
pre-existing in the shocrls, the lime is here deprived of the acid with which it was before combinei.
^jjl^lu^*^ .:;,. .jjw.*.,i»,^»i*C.*w-.^*
m
Iir THI TWO IICILIES.
69
It
if
i
in
■k
Monte Rosso (the Red Mountain) as we h.iive already Knid, has received thi.s name
from some parts of it Ixrin^j- tinged with that colour, thouj^h there arc others which are
white, and others yellow. All these pirts of it are friund to Ik* more or less decom-
posed, nnd, in general, they are only scoriae. It seems indubitable that these colours
are produced by iron, chano;cd or modified by acids.
Some of these scoriae, which have not been affected by the action of the acids, exhibit
a remarkable phenomenon. They are covered with u thin coat of pellucid glass, and
seem us if a sheet of water had flowed ovejr them and Ijeen suddenly frozen. I'his ap-
I)earance, which in the neighbourhood of any other volcano would not merit a moment's
regard, is remarkable at Etna, because we there meet with no vitrifications; M. Dolo-
mieu, whose industry and accuracy arc so great in all his researches, having found only
one piece, and that of uncertain origin.
This vitreous integument has very probably been occasioned by a more energetic
action of the fire.
After I had staid some time at Monte Rosso, equally to my instruction and amuse-
ment, and had viewed with admiration the trunk and branches of that extensive river
of lava, which issuing from the root of the mountain, and inundating an immense
tract of country, had rushed into the sea, I took my way towards the monastery of St.
Niccolo dell' Arena, a pleasing resting-place for travellers who visit Etna, where I ar-
rived about noon on the 3d of September. This very ancient edifice, founded on the
lava, was the habitation of a number of Benedictine monks, who about two hundred
years ago, in consequence of the devastation occasioned by the lava, were obliged to
abandon it, and retire to Catania. The injuries it has at different times suffered are re*
corded in various inscriptions still remaining, which commemorate ruinous earthquakes,
torrents of lava, and showers of sand and ashes, by which it has been damaged and
almost destroyed ; with the dates of the different repairs. The environs of this place
would still be entirely covered with the black sand thrown up by Monte Rosso in 1669,
were it not that this sand becomes more easily changed into vegetable earth than the lava;
and, for many years, has bten planted with more than one extensive vineyard. After
taking a slight refireshment in this hospitable place, I continued my journey towards-the
summit of Etna, proceeding over ancient lavas, which were still every where unproduc-
tive of any kind of vegetable.
About three miles above San Niccolo dell' Arena, the lower region of Etna ends, and
the middle begins, which extends for ten miles, or nearly that distance, in a direct line,
up the mountain. It is, with great propriety, called selvosa, or the woody region ;
since it abounds with aged oaks, beeches, firs, and pines. The soil of this region is a
vegetable earth, generated by the decomposition of the lavas, and similar to th^t in the
lower region ; which lavas may not only every where be found on digging a litde
depth into the ground^ but display themselves uncovered in many places, as we have
already remarked of the lavas of the other region. The middle region is celebrated for
its luxuriant vegetation and its lofty trees ; but it aptieared to me scarcely to deserve
this celebrity. The trees (at least in the places where I noticed them) and especially the
oaks, which form the greatest part of this woody zone, are low, and as I may say stinted
in their, growth ; and would lose much when compared with those of other countries.
Tlie beeches, which grow only on the upper extremity of the zone, would appear mere
pigmies, if placed beside those which rear their lofty heads on the Apennines and the
Alps. This, I am of opinion, is to be attributed to the little depth of the earth proper
for vegeUiiion. The woods and verdure of these two regions, the inferior and the mid-
dle, ^e recorded by the greater part of the writers of antiquity ; so that the commence'
w_^. ..--^ ...... v.' ':ii;-./ii.''
70
SI'ALLANZANl'l TRAVCIS
ment of this vegetation nppcan* to be lost in the obscurity of time. How much more an-
cient then, must have been the date of the Rowing of those lavas to the slow decompo*
sition of which the v(>)r('tntion owes its origin I
Before the day closed, I reached the celebrated Grotto dclle Capre, but it only afforded
us a wretched couch of leaves and straw. It is, however, the on!)' place where the tra-
veller can rest who wishes early in the morning to a*ach the top of Ktn«, which is eight
miles distant. It is one of those caverns which we frequently meet with in the middle
of the lavas of that immense motmtain ; and a little higher begins the last and sublime
region. Here I stopped to pass the night ; but, before 1 endeavoured to compose my-
self to sleep, I found it very agreeable to warm mvself by a fire made with some branches
cut from the neighbouring trees ; as, at this height, Reaumur's thermometer stood at
8^ degrees above the freezing point (51° of Fahrenheit;) while in the morning of the
santeday, at Catania, it had been at 23<* (72 of Fahrenheit.) Casting my eye around
the grotto, I perceived the names of several travellers ; some of them ntmes of emi-
nence, with the dates when they had been here, cut on the trunks of several of the oaks ;
but I must confess that I felt some little indignation on remarking that among all these
there was not one Italian name.
I shall conclude this chapter with some remarks relative to an ^ject that has not, to
my knowledge, been attended to by any other traveller. We r c been told that the
grotto is called La Grotta delle Capre (the grotto of the goats) because goats are used to
l>e shut in it, in rainy weather ; that it is hollowed in the lava in the shape of a furnace ;
that it is surrounded with ancient and venerable oaks; that leaves, there, compose the
beds of travellers ; but no one has yet described the qualities of the lava of which it is
formed. Without pretending perfectly to supply this omission, I shall say that the lava
here is of a horn-stone base; that it is of an earthy texture; and that, though it abounds
with pores and vacuities, it has considerable hardness, it contains some shocrls, and
likewise two kinds of feltspars ; some of a flat figure, which are extremely l)rilliant in the
fractures ; the others of an irregular shape, with little lustre, and which manifest a de-
gree of calcination, though without any indication of fusion. A few other thin small
stones are interspersed in them, which from their hardness and green colour I incline to
think are chrysolites ; as it is known that these noble stones are found in many of the
lavas of Etna.
This lava in the furnace is transformed into an enamel full of bubbles ; and as it then
changes to a blacker colour, the white feltspars become more conspicuous. The mag-
netic needle is acted upon by it at the distance of a line and a half. The other lavas of
the vicinity do not differ from that of the Grotta delle Capre, or rather they are a con-
tinuation of the same, even where they are covered by a stratum of earth and a multi-
tude of trees. It is therefore evident, that this grotto has been formed from time im-
memorial ; and that it is not the work of the rain-water, but has been produced by the
action of the elastic gases of the lavas when they were fluid, which have generated in
them this hollow place, as they have elsewhere many others, of which we may have oc-
casion hereafter to treat, •- „ i \ .;.■ , ,/ 'f
V ,, y
'• -- ■ ■ . ^
' • •■ ■■'■■ ■-.■ ■ ■:' ■..f--.. uf: .; i;,*.-',, ■^■j'^
— ^i>i>.^ .'w.t^ivM'. _'-! .
IN THi TWO llViblCI.
71
..-^
CHAPTER VIII.
CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY TO ETNA.
Upper region of Etna, dcHtitute of v(rgctalilcs....Ita Iav»(i....View of the rining nun from tho«r
n('ights....LavM which issui'il from the principal cru'er of Ktnain the months of Jiilv and Octo*
ber 1787...< Difficulty of croiming thone lavas to arrive at the Humroit of Ktna....Ai'ttr hiirning
t-lvvcn montli* and more, some places not yet extinguished.. ..Othfr ditficultics.... Arrival at the
top of Etnu....deHr view of the great crater, circumference of the great crater, with other parti-
cuiur8....Etnaa bifurcated mountiiin....Another smaller crater.... Obstacles usually met with in a
i'ourne) to Mount Etna. Cumparivin of what the author oliscrved within the crater of Mount
%tna, with the ol)servations liefore made by M. Keidesel, Sir William Hamilton, Urydone, and
Borch.... Physical causes of the changes in volcanic craters.... Ancient accounts of these changes....
Large masses have sometimes fallen from the top of Etna into the crater.... No sensible diminu-
tion nf the height of this mountain in the times of which we have any accoimt.... Various phe-
nomena ol)servable in the smoke which at different times has exhaled from the Etnean furnace....
No inconvenience experienced by the author from the thinness of the air on the top of Etna....
Tht tffcct of this different on different individuala....Extcnsive and admirable prospect from the
summit of Etna.
THREE hours before day I, with my companions, left the Grotta dclle Capre, which
had afl'urded us a welcome asylum, though our bed was not of the softest, at it consisted
only of a few oak leaves scattered over the flooi of lava. I continued my journey to-
wards the summit of Etna ; and the clearness of the sky induced me to hope that it
would continue the same during the approaching day, that I might enjoy the extensive
and sublime prospect from the top of this lofty mountain, which is usually involved in
clouds. I soon left the middle region, and entered the upper one, which is entirely
destitute of vegetation, except a few bushes very thinly scattered. The light of several
torches which were carried before us enabled me to observe the nature of the ground
over which we passed, and to ascertain, from such experiments as I was able to make,
that our road lay over lavas either perfectly the same with, or analogous to, those in
which the Grotta dclle Capre is hollowed.
We had arrived at within about four miles of the borders of the great crater, when
the dawn of day began to disperse the darkness of night. Faint gleams of a whitish
light were succeeded by the ruddy hues of aurora ; and soon after the sun rose above
the horizon, turbid at first and dimmed by mists, but his rays insensibly became more
clear and resplendent. These gradations of the rising day are no where to be viewed
with such precision and delight, as from the lofty height we had reached, which was
not far from the most elevated point of Etna. Here likewise I began to perceive the
effects of the eruption of Etna which took place in July 1787, and which has been so
accurately descnbed by the chevalier Gioeni.* These were visible in a coating of
black scoriae, at first thin, but which became gradually thicker as I approached the sum-
mit of the mountain, till it composed a stratum of several palms in thickness. Over
these scoriae I was obliged to proceed, not without considerable difficulty and fatigue, as
my leg at every step sank deep into it. The figure of these scoriae, the smallest of which
are about a line or somewhat less in diameter, is very irregular. Externally they have
*His account of this eruption was printed at Catania in 1787.
tiun at the end of Uie Catalogue Raisonne of M. Oolomieu.
There is likewise a French transla-
',tf
78
irAllAMSANl'l riAVILt
thf" nnpcarance or scoriie of Iron ; ond when broken, ore found Aill of small cavitirN,
whicn urc aIniONt all itphcrirul, or nearly of that figure. Tlicy arc therefore IikIu and
friable ; two t|uuliticH which urr almost always inscpurablc from icorin. This great
number of cavitlm is an evident proof of the (|uantitv and vigorous action of the elastic
fluid!!i, which in this eruption, imprisoned in the licjuid matter within the crater, dilated
it on every liidc, scckinif to extricate themselvcH ; and forced it in scoriaccous particles,
to various heights and distances, according to the respective weights of those particles.
The most attentive eye cannot discover in them the smallest shoerl i either because these
stones have been |>crfectly fused, and with the lava passed into one homogenous con*
sistence, or because they never existtd in it. Some linear feltsiMtm are however found,
which by their sniendour, semi-trans()arency, and solidity, shew tliat they have suffered
no injury from the fire. When these scoriae are pulverised, they become extremely
black ; but retain the dryness and scabrous contexture which they had when entire.
They abound in iron, and in consequence the dust produced by pulverising them co>
piously ndheas to the point of a magnetized knife ; and a small piece of these scoriae
will put the magnetic needle in motion at the distance of two lines.
In the midst of this immense ({uantity of scoHk, I in several places met with some
substances of a spherical figure, which, like the lava, were at first small, but increased
in size as I approached the summit of the mountain. These were originally particles
of lava ejected from the crater in the eruption before mentioned, which assumed a sphe-
rical figure when they were congealed by the coldness of the air. On examining them,
I found them in their qualities perfectly to resemble the scoriv, and to possess tlic same
magnetism.
Only two miles and a half remained of our joumev, when the great laboratory of
nature, inclosed within the abysses of Etna, began its astonishing operations. Two
white columns of smoke arose from its summit ; one, which was the smallest, towards
the north-east side of the mountain, and the other towards the north-west. A light
wind blowing from the east, they both made a curve towards the west, gradually dilat-
ing, until they disappeared in the wide expanse of air. Several streams of smoke, which
arose lower down towards the west, followed the two columns. These appearances
could not but tend to inspire me with new ardour to prosecute my journey, that I mi^ht
discover and admire the secrets of this stupendous volcano. The sun likewise shining
in all his splendour, seemed to promise that this day should crown my wishes. But
experience taught me that the two miles and a half I had yet to go presented many
more obstacles than I could have imagined, and that nothing but the resolution I had
formed to complete my design at every hazard could liave enabled me to surmount
them.
Having proceeded about an hundred paces further, I met with a torrent of lava, which
I Avas obliged to cross to arrive at the smoking summit. My guides informed me that
this lava had issued from the mountain in October 1787 ; and as the account of the
chevalier Gioeni, which I have above cited, only mentions the eruption of the month of
July of the same year, I shall here give a brief description of it, as it does not seem hi-
therto to have been described.
This very recent lava extends three miles in length ; its breadth is various, in some
places being about a nuartcr of a mile, in others one-third, and in others still more. Its
height, or rather deptn, is difllerent in different parts ; the greatest being, as far as I
was able to observe, about eighteen feet, and the least six. Its course is down the west
side of the mountain ; and, like the other lava which flowed in the July of 1787, it
issued immediately from the great crater of Etna. The whole number of the eruptions
^feu-.^^.. -..■
\V Tin TWO SIClLIt!!.
7J
of thU mountain of uhit h \vc have any record, In-forc and alur the Christian «ra, 1%
thirty-one; and ttn only, an wc arc informed l)y Oiociii, inclndinfi; that of uhi'h he
lias j^ivcii an account, have ivsutd immtdiatcly from ihr hi^'hest rniter. Tliat which I
ol)htrvedmay l)c the eleventh, unlew it should rather he considered an the same with
that dencrihed hy the Sicilian naturalist, since the interval hetwcen Augunt and OctoIxT
is a vcr>' hhort intcrmiission of rest for a volcano. 'I'hf cause of the rarity of the erup-
tions which issue immediately from the crater, compared with those* which disgorfje from
the sides, seems c asily to he assigned. The centre of this volcano is probably at a great
depth, and perhaps on a level witn the sea. It is therefore much niore easy for the
matter liquefied hy the fue, put in eftervescence by the elastic lluuls, and impelled on
ever}' side from tlic centre to the circumference, to force its May through one of the
sides of the mountain where itfmds least resistance, and thcrv: form a curAnt, than to
he thrown up, notwithstanding the resistance of gravity, from the bottom of so great a
height as the highest crater of hlna. It is evident, therefore, that the cftirvescence in the
eruptions of the months of July and October 1787 w is extremely violent. The torrent
of tne month of October is e\ ery where covtre-d with «coria;, which resemble those
ejected in the month of July in their black colour, but differ from them in the ^eat
adhesion they have to die la\a, in theircxterior vitreous ap|)earance, their greater weight,
and their hardness, which h so great that they give sparks with steel almost as plenti-
fully as flints. These difterences, however, are to be attributed only to accidental com.
binations of the same substance ; the constituent principles of the scoriae of this lava
not being different from those of the detached scoriic mentioned above. Both likewise
contain tne same feltspar lamellae.
This new current was however extremely difficult, and even dangerous, in the pas-
sage. In some places the scoriae projected m prominent angles and points*, and in others
sunk in hollows, or steep declivities ; in some, from their fragility and smoothness, they
resemble thin plates of ice, and in others they presented vertical and sharp projections.
In addition to these difficulties, my guides informed me I should have to pass three
places where the lava was still red-hot, though it was now eleven months since it had
ceased to flow. These obsUicles, however, could not overcome my resolution to sur-
mount them, and I then experienced, as I have frequently done at other times, how
much may be effected, in difficulties and dangers like these, by mere physical courage,
by the assistance of which we may proceed along the edge of a precipice in safety ; whde
the adventurer who suffers himself to be surprised by a panic fear will be induced cow-
ardly to desist from the enterprise he might have completed. In several places, it is
true, the scoriae broke under my feet; and in others I slipped, and had nearly fallen
into cavities from which I should have been with difficulty extricated. One of the
three places pointed out by the guides had likewise, from its extreme heat, proved
highly disagreeable ; yet at length I surmounted all these obstacles and reached the
opposite side, not without making several cursory observations on the places whence
those heats originated. Two large clefts, or apertures, in different places appeared in
the lava, which there, notwithstanding the clearness of the day, had an obscure redness ;
and on applying the end of the staff which I used as a support in this difficult journey
to one of these, it presently smoked, and immediately after took fire. It was therefore
indubitable that this heap of ejected lava still contained within it the active remains of
fire, which were more manifest there than in other places, because those matters were
there collected in greater quantities.
I had yet to encounter other obstacles. I had to pass that tract which may properly
be called the cone of Etna, and which, in a right line, is about a mile or somewhat more
VOL. V. 1
^Jk
74
SFALLANZANI'S TRAVELS
in length. This was extremely steep, and not less rugged, from the accumulated
scoriae which had been henped upon it in the last eruption, the pieces of which were
neither connected together, nor attached to the ground ; so that frequently, when I
stepped unpn one of them, before I could advance my other foot, it gave wuy, and
forcing other pieces before it down the steep declivity, carried me with it, compelling
me to take many steps backwards instead of one forwards. To add to this inconveni-
ence, the larger pieces of scoria; above that on which I had stepped, being deprived of
the support of those contiguous to them, came rolling down upon me, not without dan-
ger of violently bruising my feet, or breaking my legs. After several ineifectual ut-
tempts to proceed, I found the only method to avoid this inconvenience, and continue
my journey, was to step only on those larger pieces of scoriae which on account of their
weight, remained iirm ; but the length of the way was thus more than doubled, by
the circuitous windings it was necessary to make to find such pieces of scoriae as from
their large size were capable of affording a stable support. I employed three hours in
passing, or rather dragging myself to the top of the mountain, partly from being unable
to proceed in aright line, and partly from the steepness of the declivity, which obliged
me tc climb with my hands and fcet, sweating and breathless, and under the necessity
of stopping at intervals to rest, and recover my strength. How much did I then envy
the good fortune of those who had visited Etna before the eruption of 1787, when, as
my guides assured me, the journey was far less difRcult and laborious !
I was not more than a hundred and fifty paces distant from the vertex of the cone,
and already beheld close to me, in all their majesty, the two columns of smoke. Anxious
to reach the borders of the stupendous gulf, I summoned the little strength I had re-
maining to make a last effort, when an u.^^oreseen obstacle for a moment cruelly re-
larded the completion of my ardent wishes. The volcanic cniters, which are still
burning more or less, are usually surrounded with hot sulphureous acid steams, which
issue from their sides, and cvst in the air. From these the summit of Etna is not ex«
empt ; but the largest of them rose to the west, and I was on the south-east side. Here
likewise four or five strcavns of smoke arose from a part somewhat lower, and through
these it was necessary to pa^s ; since on one side was a dreadful precipice, and on the
other so steep a declivity, that I and my companion, from weakness and fatigue, were
unable to ascend it; and it was with '.ij. ulmof»t difficulty that our two guicies made
their way up it, notwithstanding they svi.re 80 much accustomed to such laborious expe*
<litions. We continued our journey, therefore, through the midst of the vapours ; but
though we ran as fist iis the ground and our strength would permit, the sulphureous
steams with which they were loaded were extremely offensive and prejudicial to respi-
ration, and affeettd me in particular so much, that for some moments I was deprived
of sense ; and found by experience how dangerous an undertaking it is to visit volcanic
regions infested by such vapours.
Having passed this place, and recovered by degrees my former presence of mind, in
yless than an hour I arrived at the utmost summit of Etna, and began to discover the edges
ef the crater ; when our guides, who had preceded me at some distance, turned back,
and hastening towards me, exclaimed in a kind of transport, that I never could have
arrived at a more proper time to discover and obser\'e the internal part of this stupen-
dous volcano. The reader will easily conceive, vvithout my attempting to describe it,
how great a pleasure I felt at finding my labours and fatigue at length crowned with
such conjplete success. This pleasure was exalted to a kind of rapture when I had
completely reached the spot, and perceived that I might without danger contemplate
this amazing spectacle. I sat down near the edge of the crater, and remained there two
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
I J
m
hours, to recover my strength after the fatigues I had undergone in my journey. 1
viewed with astonishment the configuration of the borders, the internal sides, the form
of its immense cavern, its bottom, an aperture which appeared in it, the melted matter
which boiled within, and the smoke which ascended from it. Tlie whole of this stupen-
dous scene was distinctly displayed before me ; and I shall now proceed to give some
description of it, though it will only be possible to present the reader with a very feeble
image, as the sight alone can enable him to form ideas at all adequate to objects so grand
and astonishing.
The upper edges of the crater, to judge by the eye, are about a mile and a half in
circuit, and form an oval, the longest diameter of which extends from east to west.
As they are in several placer .-^jken, and crumbled away in large fnigments, they ap-
pear as it were indented, and lusse indentations are a kind of enormous steps, formed of
projecting lavas and scorice. The internal sides of the cavern, or crater, are inclined in
diilerent angles in different places. To the west their declivity is slight : they are more
steep to the north ; still more so to the east ; and to the south-east, on which side I was,
the^ are almost jierpendicular. Notwithstanding this irregularity, however, they form
akmd of funnel, large at the top, and narrow at the bottom, as we usually observe hi
other craters. The sides appear irregularly rugged, and abound with concretions of an
orange colour, which at first 1 took for sulphur, but afterwards found to be the muriate
of ammoniac, having been able to gather some pieces of it from the edges of the gulf.
The bottom is nearly a horizontal plane, about two-thirds of a mile in circumference.
It apijears striped with yellow, probably from the above-mentioned salt. In this plane,
from the place where I stood, a circular aperture was visible, apparently about five poles
in diameter, from which issued the larger column of smoke, which I had seen before I
arrived at the summit of Etna. I shall not mention several streams of smoke, which
arose like thin clouds from the same bottom, and different places in the sides. The
principal column, which at its origin might be about twenty feet in diameter, ascended
rapidly in a perpendicular direction while it was whhin the crater ; but when it had
risen above the edges, irtclined towards the west, from the action of a light wind, and
when it Iiad risen higher, dilated into an extended but thin volume. This smoke was
white, and being impelled to the side opposite that on which I was, did not prevent my
seeing within the aperture ; in which I can affirm, I very distinctly perceived a liquid
ignited matter, which continually undulated, boiled, and rose and fell, without spreading
over the bottom. This certainly was the melted lava which had arisen to that aperture
from the bottom of the Etnean gulf.
The favourable circumstance of having this aperture immediately under my view in-
duced me to throw into it some large stones, by rolling them down the steep declivity
below me. These stones, which were only large pieces of lava that I had detached
from the edges of the crater, bounding down the side, in a few moments fell on the
bottom, and those which entered into the aperture, and struck the liquid lava, pro-
duced a sound similar to tliat they would have occasioned had they fallen into a thick
tenacious paste. Every stone I thus threw struck against and loosened others in its
passage, which fell with it, and in like manner struck and detached others in their way,
whence the sounds produced were considerably multiplied. The stones which fell on
the bottom rebounded, even when they were very large, and returned a sound different
from that I have before described. The bottom cannot therefore be considered as only
a thin crust ; since, were it not thick and solid; it must have been broken by stones so
heavy falling from so great a height.
I
, t. ' - ,^-. .
J
76
SPALtANZANrS TRAVELS
This description will perhaps be better understood by an inspection of Plate II,*
which exhibits the summit of Mount Etna surrounded with large pieces and masses of
lava. AAA represents one edge of the lava of 17P . . which issued from the upper cra-
ter. B B the circumference of the crater, with its 1 tt C C, through which the mtemal
part is discernible. D the flat bottom of the crater. E the aperture in the bottom, from
which the larger column of smoke FF irose; which aperture, though it was on one
side of the bottom, is, for the greater pe-spicuity, represented in the middle. G G that
part of the edge of the crater from which its internal part is most distinctly visible, and
where the design of it might most conveniently be taken. H H the smaller column of
smoke to the north-east.
To satisfy one emotion of curiosity, is frequently to excite another. I had at first
approached this volcano with a kind of superstitious awe. The histories of every aee,
the relations of travellers, the universal voice of Europe, had all contributed to inspire
those who should adventure to visit it with dread: but as at this time it seemed to have
laid aside its terrors, and was in a stale of perfect calmness and tranquillity, I was en-
couraged to become more familiar, and to endeavour to pry into more of its secrets. I
have already observed that the side of the crater to the west is of a more gentle declivity
than the others ; and I therefore conceived that this might serve me as a ladder to de-
scend to the bottom, where I might have added to the observations I had already made,
otlKT novel and important tacts. But the persons whom I had brought with me as
guid ^s would not consent that I should expose myself to such danger. They could not,
however, prevent me from making at my ease the observations I have here published,
and walking leisurely about the summit of the mountain, notwithstanding the dangerous
consequences with which they threatened me ; telling me that, should the wind change,
the column of smoke must be turned towards us, and might deprive us of life by its
pestilential fumes ; that besides, we were not certain that the lava at the bottom, which
now appeared so calm and still, would long remain in the same state ; but that it was
possible, from circumstances difficult to foresee, that it might be thrown up on a sud-
den, and punish our imprudent curiosity by burying us beneath the fiery ruin ; in sup-
port of which sugp-cstion they produced several instances of sudden and most unexpect-
ed eruptions.
We ha'* e seen above that there were two columns of smoke arising from Etna. It is
to be remarked that, besides that point of Mount Etna on which I stood, there is ano» ,
ther to the north, a quarter of a mile higher, and which renders the summits of Etna pro-
perly bifurcated. Within the first pifominenec is sunk the crater I have described; and
on the side of the other is the second, from which ascends a lesser column of smoke.
The second crater is smaller by about the one half than that I have already described ;
and the one is separated from the other only by a partition of scoriae and accumulated
lava, which lies in the direction of from east to west. I made my observations on this
second crater from a small distance ; but it was impossible to advance to it, on account
of the numerous and thick streams of smoke by which it was surrounded. This, how-
ever, was no great disappointment, after having seen and examined the principal crater,
which is that whence several currents of lava had issued in 1787. I ought certainly to
consider myself as extremely fortunate, in being able to gratify my curiosity with so
near and distinct a view of the objects i have described ; as the guides assured me that,
among all the times when they had conducted strangers to the summit of Etna, this vras
the only one in which they had a clear and undisturbed view of the internal parts of
that immense gulf. After my return to Catania, the chevalier Gioeni likewise declared
* The learned may consuU the original. The drawing is miserable.
of
"a-
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ity
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ie,
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\ ■
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IN THE TWO SICILIES.
77
to mc that in all hh different excursions to that moiinUiin, he Iiaci n«.:ver liad a good for-
tune similar to mine ; and that a month before my arrival he had made a journey to
Etna with the chevalier Dangios, furnished with the necessary instruments to ascertain
accurately the height of the mountain ; but when they had arrived at the foot of the cone,
where they had proposed to begin their operations, they were obliged to return back
from the obstacles they met with, which, to say the truth, are commonly neither few
nor small.
Etna rises to a prodigious height above the level of the sea, and its summit is usually
covered with snows and ice, and obscured with clouds, except when the latter are low
and range along the sides. The winds likewise frequently blow with such violence that
persons can scarcely keep their feet, not to mention the acute cold which benumbs the
limbs. But the most formidable impediments to the progress of the adventurers who
attempt this perilous journey, are the streams of sulphureous vapour which rise on the
sides, and the thick clouds of sulphureous smoke which burst forth from the mouth of
the volcano, even when not in a state of agitation. It seems as if nature had placed
these noxious fumes as a guard to Etna, and other fiery mountains, to prevent the ap-
proach of curiosity, and secure her mysterious and wondrous labours from discovery.
I should, however, justly incur the reproach of being ungrateful, were I not to acknow-
ledge the generous partiality she appeared to manifest towards me. At the time I made
my visit the sky was clear, the mountain free from snows, the temperature of the atmos-
phere not incommodious, the thermometer standing at seven degrees above the freezing
point (48° of Fahrenheit) and the wind favouring my design, by driving the smoke of
the crater from me, which otherwise would alone have been sufficient to have frustrated
all my attempts. The streams of smoke I met with in my way were indeed somewhat
troublesome, but they might have been much more so ; though, had our guides con-
ducted us by another road, as on my return to Catania I found they might have done,
we should have escaped this inconvenience.
It here will not be improper to compare these observations on the crater of Etna
whh those of baron Riedesel, Sir William Hamilton, Mr. Brydone, and count Borch ;
as such a comparison will shew the great changes which have t:.!:en place in this vol-
cano within the space of twenty years ; tluit is, from the time when it was visited by
baron Riedesel in 1767, to that of my journey in 1788. At the time when that tra-
veller made his observations, the crater was enlarged towards the east, with an aperture
which now no longer exists. He has not given the measure of its circuit, nor has he
mentioned the interior aspect of the crater; probably because he had not seen it, having
been, as I imagine, prevented by the quantity of smoke which he tells us continually as-
cended i'rom it.
It is worthy of notice, however, that at that time there was not at the bottom of the
crater the hard flat surface I have described ; since the stones thrown into it did not re-
turn the smallest sound. Within the gulf itself was heard a noise similar to that of the
waves otthe sea when agitated by a tempest, which noise probably proceeded from the
lava within the bowels of the mountain, liquefied and in motion. We may hence con-
ceive how easily a volcano may begin to rage on a sudden, though before apparently in
a state of complete tranquillity ; for if we suppose a superabundant quantity of elastic
substances to have been suddenly developed in the liquid lava of Etna, either at the time
when baron Riedesel visited the crater, or when I observed it in a state of slight commo-
tion within the gulf, it must immediately have swelled in every part, beating violently
against the sides of the caverns in which it was imprisoned, thundered among the deep
cavities, and bursting forth through the sides, have poured out a river of fire ; or should
.
78
SPALLANZANI*S TBAVELS
its violence have been there resisted, it would have rushed up within the crater, until it
overflowed its brink, and deluged the sides of the mountains with its torrents.
Sir William Hamilton, on the 26th of October, 1769, arrived at the summit of Etna
with great diflicully, on account of the snows he met with in his way, the severity of
the atmosphere, the sulphureous vapours, and the violence of the wind. He was una-
ble to view distiiv tly the lower parts of the crater, being prevented by the great quantity
of smoke which i Vom it ; though when this smoke was sometimes driven away
by the wind, he ct ':over that the crater was shaped like a ftumel, diminishing un-
til it ended in a pen , and that this funnel was incrusted over with salt and sulphur.
The crater was tw o miles and a half in circumference.
From the time therefore of the journey of baron Riedescl to that of Sir William Ha-
milton, li)e crater must have undergone great changes in its structure ; since if the stones
that wire thrown into it gave no indications to the ear that they struck against any solid
body, it is manifest that there must then have been an abyss as well as a funnel ; and as
the funnel terminated in a point when it was observed by Sir William Hamilton, it is
evident that the flat bottom I have described, and which was about two-thirds of a mile
in circuit, did not then exist.
The internal sides of the crater, Sir William tells us, were covered with a crust of
salt and sulphur ; but he does not specify the nature of the former ; and though the
presence of the latter is not improbable, he might have been led into a mistake by the
yellow colour, and have taken the muriate of ammoniac (sal ammoniac) for sulphur, as
I did before I examined it. Sir William has not told us that he made any examina-
tion at all ; and it is probable that he judged only from the appearance it presented to
his eye.
He observes, lastly, that the crater was two miles and a half in circumference ; an esti-
mate which may be made to agree with mine by neglecting the partition which separates
the greater crater from the less, and considering them both as one. The sum of the
two circumferences, according to the estimate I have given, would not then greatly dif-
fer from the measure of Sir William Hamilton. Nothing likewise can be more proba-
ble, than that among the various changes that have happened to Etna, this partition, by
which the great crater is divided into two parts, has been produced.
Omitting the observations of Mr. Brydonc, that "the tremendous gulf of Etna, so
celebrated in all ages, has been looked upon as the terror both of this and another life ;
that it inspires such awe and horror, that it is not surprising that it has been considered
as the place of the damned:" and other similar philosophical reflections which he has
employed ; and confining ourselves to what he actually saw on the 29th of May, 1770,
we learn from him that *' the crater was then a circle of about three miles and a half in
circumference ; that it went shelving down on each side, and formed a regular hollow,
like a vast amphitheatre; and that a great mouth opened near the centre."*
From the time of the journey of Sir William Hamilton therefore, to that of the visit
of Brydone, that is to say within tlie short space of a year, various changes had happened
to this volcano, by the enlargement of its crater, and a spacious aperture formed in its
bottom.
Count Borch appears to have wished to exceed the three other travellers in brevity,
relative to this subject ; since he only tells us that he arrived at the mountain on the
16th of December 1776, and that the crater of Etna is formed like a funnel. He adds,
* Brydone's Tour through Sicily and Malta, vol. i. p. 195, 196.
IN THE TWO SICILIRS.
7!)
however, what h worthy of no» ice, that the summit of F.tna is bifurcated, as I observed
it to lie ; n circumstance not noticed by otliers, Sir William Hamilton even aflirminp;
that the summit of the mountain is single ; whence we may conclude that one of these
summits has been produced since the time of the journey of Brydone, in 1770.
On comparing the abovc-cited observations, made within the space of twenty. one years
we may perceive how many changes have taken place in Ktna duriuf^ that interval ; and
as within that time the mountain has suffered onl^v two violent convulsions, in the crun-
tions of 1781 and 1787, it is evident that even m the state of apparent inaction, it stiU
internally exerts its force.
To these observations, it may likewise not be without utility to add those of M. D'Or-
ville. He ascended Etna in 1727, and remarked two craters; one larger than the
other. The latter he only mentions, but the former he describes at some length. Its
circumference was perhaps somewhat more than four miles. I'rom it issued clouds of
smoke and reddish flames. These however did not prevent his approaching to the c(J|gc
of the gulf; though to prevent the danger of falling into it, he and his conipanions
fastened themselves to a rope held by three men. On looking into the crater, they were
unable to discern the bottom, on account of the flames and smoke ; they only ol>served
that a conical hill formed of lava, rose in the middle of the crater, the top of which they
estimated to be sixty feet below them ; and thev were able to see perhaps about sixty
lower ; where they conjectured the circuit of this hill might be from six hundred to
eight hundred feet.* '- ^ , ' ^ ' . '
\Ve have here a remarkable circumstance relative to Etna, as it appeared in the time
of M. D'Orville, and not observed by any one of the four travellers above cited ; I
mean the conical hill within the crater. Evei-y observation therefore, tends to confirm
the inconstancy of the internal configurallon and (jimenNions of this volcano. It is an
extinguished forge, which in proportion to the vlr»)<?|i('t' of tlu firr, to the nature of the
fossil matters on which it acts, and of the elastic fluids (tlij«;h urge und set it in motion,
produces, destroys, and re-produces various forms. The usual (ind natural figure of t!u'
summit of a volcanic mountain is that of an inverted coneuvi? rone within, and one solid
and erect without ; and such a configun.tlon, in niiil/'M' '> " hlclii are no longer in a state
of conflagnuion, is one of the most certain inditaK ' i(te existence of an ancient
volcano. This cone, however, js jiabje (f| yf.Ty great (:f| ikj , according to the greatc
or less fury of the volcano, and the 'iua/i(l(| im\ f|i|ii||U iW flie matters ejected. ft«
internal part, from more than (jiu riii|i,e, js exposeff to W/jjIli"' I I I n» .■ nnd change.
The prodigious cavities of the mountain <nii|(» |( h(Hi(ih( iipj . jk i, / ' J/i iheair. It
may easily therefore give way, and fall in; especially . i( i I ni IfMpiilse of new matters
which endeavour lo foree a passage througli the upper pail j \\i consequence of which
the inverted cone may, according to ciictilnsl.iin f% prt ;< nt the appcaranceof an aper-
ture, or whirlpool, or a gull. Should the liquid L j . through the aperture, and
continue there some time, its Mintrficicf. I)y the contia i lij thi ceild air losingits heat gra-
dually^ would congeal and form a crust rii solid plane ; and should the fluid lava bentath,
afterwards act forcibly on this crust, it might burst it, or make a passage u here it found
least resistance ; in which case the melted lava would occupy that aperture. Should
then the crust, instead of ascending in a siugl* body, be forced up in small fragments,
these cooled in the air, would fall down ui immense quantities within the crater, and
from the effect of the laws of gravity, must accumulate in tlie figure of a cone. These
theoretical conjectures, if they do not perfectly explain, may at least enable us to con-
* Jacob! Philippi h'OrriUcSicuIa.
>V.:;^
30
SfALLANZANI 3 TRAVELS
ccivc the nature of the causes which have produced the difference of appearance observed
at different times in the crutcr of Etna.
It is mucii to be regretted that \vc have no history of Etna ; which, did we possess it,
must grti'tly contribute to elucidate the theory of volcanos, and the causes of the vari-
ous chi'.n^es which have taken phice ut different times, in the summit of this mountain.
That sucii changes have happened, is evident from the few but valuable notices concern-
ing I'Una, which we find in ancient authors. Of these I shall briefly state two or three
which appear to be of most importance.
I hIkiII first produce the authority of Strabo, though he was not himself an ocular wit-
ncas, but relied on the information of others, who had visited Etna, and from whom he
received the account, " That the summit was a level plain of about twenty stadia in cir-
cumference, surrounded by a brow or ridge, of the height of a wall ; and that in the
middle of the plain arose a smoky hill, the smoke of which ascended in a direct line, to
the height of two hundred feet."*
If we consider this description as accurate, the crater of Etna was at that time sur-
rotuided by a brow or ridge, which I should explain as the sides or edges ; and in the
lower part, was separated by a mount rising in the middle.f The simie geographer re-
lates, that two men having ventured to descend upon the plain, were obliged immedi-
ately to return, from the violence of the heat. J
Solinus tells us that there were two craters from which the vapours issued. }
Cardinal Bembo likewise found two craters on the summit, the one higher than the
other, and about as far distant as a stone might be thrown from a sling. The extreme
violence of the wind, and the exhaling fumes, prevented him from approaching the upper
crater. The loAver he found to be formed like an immense pit, and surrounded with a
plain of no great extent, which was so hot that he could not bear his hand on it. From
its mouth, as from a^ chimney, continually issued a column of smoke.
Of the other crater which he could not observe himself, he received a description at
Catania from a monk, who, he assures us, was a man deserving credit, and well ac-
quainted with such subjects. He informed him that this crater was situated on the high-
est part of the summit of Etna ; that it was about three miles in circumference ; formed
like a funnel ; and that it had in the middle a spacious cavity. He asserted that he had
made the circuit of it, along a kind of narrow ridge ; that from time to time, it threw
out stones and burning matters to a considerable height, roaring and shaking the ground ;
but that in the intervals when it was undisturbed, he had observed it without danger or
difficulty.
In the time of Fazello, however, who visited Etna after cardnial Bembo, there were
no longer two craters, but only one ; the circumference of which, as he informs us,
was four miles. It had the usual form of the funnel, emitted fire and thick smoke, but
at intervals was calm, and might be approached ; at which times a subterraneous noise
was heard, and a sound like that of the boiling of an immense caldron on a vast fire.
• ■• •■• ...... ( ■ A. ■.. . . - . Irft , I'.Sa 1, ,.<, jl
Ut >'•)'*< •rtv$i«iit9'<iir«'o/w toM^tit /i asrrtf.
t Thi8 observation agrees with tlwt of D'Orville mentioned ubove. I find likewise that similar mounts
have sometimes been thrown up witiiin the crater of Vesuvius. De Bottis Istoria di vurj incendj del
Vesuvio.
$ '>In £tn.x; vciticc hiatus duo sunt, cratcrcb nominati, per quos ckuctatuscrumpit vapor. Cap. xi.
!
sm
IN THE TWO SICItlll.
81
These ob.icrvntionR were made by him in 1541, :«nti 1554, in both which \c.irs thr
<JrattT api)earH to have been sinu^lc*
These few citations apfxrar to mc aiiflicicntto shew wimt chanws have taken place In
the summit of Ktna, relative to number, the form, »i'l the shv of its crntcM, according
to the differtnt effects oi' its confl.i^^ratinnH at dift'tn lU timcx. Rut there ii likewise
another alteration which hhould not Ik; passed unnoticed, described by two imters who
themselves obrjcrved it, razelio and Uorclii ; I mean the liillinj^ in and absorption of the
extreme summit of Etna within ifs crater The former of the aliovc -mentioned auilwrs
relates, that iii his time there arose in the mouth of the crater, a little hill, isolated on
every side, which formed the vertex of Uic mountain; and which in a terrible eruption
fell mto, and was buried in the gulf, thus enl.irging the cr<iter, and diminishing the
height of the mountain. This hill itself had been prwhiced by a former eruption in
1444.}-
In like manner Borelli informs us that in the conflagration of 1069, the summit of
Etna, which rose like a tower to a great height above Ujc part which is level, was swal-
lowed up in the deep gulf.j
I have already said, that when I visited Etna, its summit wa* divided into two points,
or little mountains, one of which rose a (]uarter of a mile above the other. 1 should
not be surprised were I to hear that in some new and fierce eruptitv/i, the highest of these
had fallen m, and the two craters become one of much larger dimensions. We know
that the summit of Vesuvius has sometimes fallen down in the siime manner ; nor does
i*^ appear diflicult to assign the cause. It cecms to admit of no doubt that the highest
parts of Etna, and other mountains which vomit fire from their summits, have their
foundations on the sides of the crater, which extend to an immense depth. In any vio.
lent earthquake thealore, or impetuous shock of the lava endeavouring to force a pas-
sage, it may easily Ix- imagined that those foundations must be torn up and broken
•way, and the sumnn " of the volcano fall and '>e lost in the gulf.
These dilapidations ave not ho*^everJ from time immemorial, produced any sensible
diminution of the height of the sun~*mit of Etna , since the losses occasioned by some
eruprions are repared b} others which follow. J'his may be inferred from a pheno-
menon usually inseparable from the jt^mmit of Etna, though by rare accident, not ob-
servable at the time of my journey ; I mean the ice and snow with which it is covered.
Had any considerabl< decrease of the height of Uic mountain taken place, in consequence
of the summit repeatedly falling in, in formt ages, the ice and snow would not cer-
tainly in a climate so mild, havr continued to envelope the top of the mountain as they
now do, even during the greate<»t heats of summer. Bdt this continual residence of
the snow and ice on Etna has been celebnited by all antiquity ; for near observation
was not necessary to ascertain this phenomenon, since it is distincdy apparent at the
distance of a hundred miles. Adscervdit ea rcgio (says Fazello, speaking of the upper
region oi" 1 rvia) passuum milJia fere xii. ; quae per hyemem tota nivibus obsita ex*
tremisqui* tti^oribus riget: per aestatem quoque nulla sai parte nee anitic nee gelu
caret : q\.-\ quidem admirations dignum est ; cun vertex incendia pr< 'e scmpiterna
jugiflammi^um eructationc inter nives ipsas pariat, enutriat, ac continue "This re-
gion extends nearly twelve miles -, and even in summer, is almost perpetually covered
with snow, and extremely cold ; which is the niore wonderful as the suminit continu-
ally produces, nourishes, and pours forth flames amid the ice and snow with which
it is enveloped."
•Fazel. Sic. "' ; f Ubl sup. « ■\. , 4 Ubi 8U|^ / .'
VOL. V. - Jt
8S
IPALLANZANl'l TRAVILI
Soliium and Silius Italicus give the sumc dc»criptioi). The rormcr suya — M'trum ett
quod in ilia frrvcntin iiaturae pcrvicuciu mixtas i^j^nihuH (il'.tnu) nive« prol'crt : ct licet
vastiiexundct incendiiH, aprica canitc ncri^tuo brumulcm dctiiict fucicin.* *' Ktiia, in
a wonderful manner, exhibits nnowH mixed with fires; and retains every appearance of
the severest winter amid her vast conflagrations. " ... ■ , • ^n
Silius Italicus has the following lines : i »
•* Summo cuna iiiKo cohlhlt (mir«bUc dictu)
Vlciiiunt flurninlii Kluclenii ctorno(|u« rigoro
Ardcntct horrent kcopuli ( lUt vertlco ci-UI • * ' '
Cullii hycmsi calldaquo nlvem togitutra fuvUla."t
, / ■■ t
<' Where burning; Etna, towering, threats the aki^i*
'Mid fluntet and ice the luft)r rocki arise ; .
Tho fire amid eternal winter kIowi, ■ ,'•
And the warm aiihet hide the nuary anowi."
And since I have quoted a poet, I will cite two others ; Claudian and Pindar ; as it
is suflicicntly evident that poetry here must express truth and not fiction.
•• Sed quamvis nimio fervcna exuberet aeatUf , ,
Scit nivibus servare fidemi pariterquo favilliii ' ;
Dureicit glacies, tanti tecura vaporis, • ■ .'
Arcano defensa gclu, rumo(|uc ndeli ' i'
Lambit conliguun initoxlu flanima pruinas."!
** Amid the fires accumulatea the anew,
And frost remains where burning aahea glow ; w ' ' .'>
O'er ice eternal Bwevp th' inactive flumca,
And winter, apitc of fire, the region claima."
Thus the Latin poet ; but the Greek has given us a picture of Etna much more
highly coloured, representing it not only as the eternal abode of snows, but as the co-
lumn of heaven to express its astonishing height. ; , . ., , "(V
' '• Kit* ^ »««tia ' '
■ '' N<f tirr 'Ai1»« sr«»iT«i
Xititf t(u0 rittita,"^
■ -» Snowy Etna, nurse of endless froat,
The mighty prop of heaven." ' *";
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it is to be remarked that Pindar lived five hundred years before the Christian aerai '-'
I now return from this digression, which though not indeed very short, opjiears to
me perfectly appropriate to the subject; and proceed to resume my narrative. I shall
first speak briefly of a phenomenon relative to the smoke which arises from the crater
of Etna, and which was seen diflferently by Mr. Brydone, count Borch, and m)^8elf.
Mr. Brydone tells us that " from many places of the crater issue volumes of sulphure-
ous smoke, which being much heavier dian the circumambient air, instead of irising in
it, as smoke generally does, immediately on its getting out of the crater, rolls down the
tide of the mountain like a torrent, till coming to that part of the atmosphere of the
same specific gravity with itself, it shoots off Tiorizontally, and forms a large track in
ihe air according to the direction of tlie wind."
•Cap. xi..„,j.,;^,t Lib. xiv. ♦Claud, de Rapt. Pros. § Pind. Pyth. Od. I, y ^
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On the contrary, the smoke when seen by count Borch, at the intervals when the air
was calm, arose, perpendicularly, to a great height, and afterwards fell, like white fleeces,
on the top of the mountain. I shall not presume to doubt these two facts, though I
observed neither of them. The two columns of smoke which I saw, though bent some-
what from the perpendicular by the wind, ascended with the usual promptitude of ordi
nary smoke (a certain proof that it was considerably lighter than the ambient air) and,
when at a great height, became extremely rarefied and dispersed. This difference in the
appearance of the smoke as observed by the two authors before mentioned and myself,
may arise not only from the gravity of the air on Etna being different at diftbrent times, but
also from the diversity of the smoke, which may be sometimes lighter and sometimes
heavier than the air that surrounds it; differing in its nature according to the quality of
the substances from which it is produced. Such a variation in its specific gravity must
induce us to conclude that the bodies which burn within tlie crater are specirically dif-
ferent.
The effects of the air at the summit of Etna, as experienced by nriyself and some of
the travellers I have before cited, were likewise different. Sir William Hamilton tells
us, that the thinness of that fluid occasioned a difliculty of respiration ; and count Borch
appears to have experienced a still greater inconvenience of that kind, since he says —
" The rarity of the air on this mountain is extremely sensible, and almost renders that
fluid unfit for respiration." On the contrary, baron Riedesel felt no such effect, as for,
at least, as we can judge from his own words. ** I did not perceive, as several travellers
have asserted, that the air here is so thin and rarefied as to prevent, or at least greatly in-
commode, respiration." Mr. Brydone has said nothing on the subject, and his silence
may induce us to conclude that he experienced no difliculty.
I, my servant, and the two guides, suffered no inconvenience from the air. The ex-
ertions we had made, indeed, in climbing up the craggy steep declivities which surround
the crater, produced a shortness of breathing ; but when we had reached the summit,
and ret^7ered from our weariness by rest, we felt no kind of inconvenience, either while
sitting, or when, incited by curiosity, we went round and examined different parts of
the edges of the crater. The same is aflirmed by Borelli : iEque bene respiratio in ca-
cumine iEtnae absolvitur, ac in locis subjectis campestribus. " Respiration is perform-
ed with the same ease on the top of Etna, as in the country below."
Several writers have treated of the difficulty of respiration experienced by those who
travel over high mountains, and other inconveniences to which they are exposed ; but
none, in my opinion, more judiciously than M. Saussure, in his Travels amon^ the Alps.
The observations he has made appear to me to explain the cause of these different ac-
counts, relative to the effect of the air on the top of Etna. When the height above
the level of the sea was two thousand four hundred and fifty poles, or nearly such, ^yhich
he found to be that of Mont Blanc, every individual felt more or less inconvenience
from the rarefaction of the air, as happened to himself and nineteen persons Avho accom-
panied him, when in August 1787, he ascended that mountain. But when the eleva-
tion was much less, as for example, nineteen hundred poles, some of these persons felt
no difficulty, among whom was this naturalist ; though he confesses that he be^n to
experience inconvenience as he ascended higher. We have not indeed any certam ob-
servations relative to the exact height of Etna, as is suflUciently proved by the different
estimates given by different naturalists. Signor Dangios, however, astronomer at
Malta, in the year 1787, measured the height of this mountain by a geometrical me-
thod, and the public anxiously expects the results, which will satisfactorily solve this im-
portant problem. In the mean time, from comparing the measures hitherto assigned,
M 2
84
.iPALLANZANl'S TRAVELS
the elevation or Etna above the level of the sea is probably somewhat less than ninetfccn
hundred poles. Hence we understand why respiration, in many persons, is not incom-
moded, while the contrary happens to others, according to the different strength and
habit of body of different individuals.
After having, for two hours, indulged my eyes with a view of the interior of the cra-
ter, that is, in the contemplation of a spectacle which in its kind, and in the present age,
is without a parallel in the world; I turned them to another scene, which is likewise
unequalled for the multiplicity, the beauty and the variety of the objects it presents. In
fact, there is, perhaps, no elevated region on the whole globe whicn offers, at one view,
so ample an extent of sea and land as the summit of Etna. The first of the sublime
objects Avhich it presents is the immense mass of its own colossal body. When in the
country below it, near Catania, we raise our eyes to this sovereign of the mountains, we
<;ertainly survey it with admiration, as it rises majestically, and lifts its lofty head above
the clouds ; and vith a kind of geometric glance we estimate its height from the base
to the summit : but we only see it in profile. Very different is the appearance it pre-
sents, viewed from its towering top, when the whole of its enormous bulk is subjected
to the eye. The first part, and that nearest the observer, is the Upper Region, which,
from the quantity of snows and ice beneath wliich it is buried during the greater part of
the year, may be called the frigid zone, but which, at that time, was divested of this co-
vering, and only exhibited rough and craggy cliffs, here piled on each other, and there
separate, and rising perpendicularly ; fearful to view and impossible to ascend. Towards
the middle of this zone, an assemblage of fugitive c louds, irradiated by the sun, and all
in motion, increased the wild variety of the scene. Lower down, appeared the Middle
Region, which, from the mildness of its climate, may merit the name of the temperate
zone. Its numerous woods, interrupted in various places, seem, like a torn garment,
to discover the nudity of the mountain. Here arise a multitude of other mountains,
which in any other situation would appear of a gigantic size, but are but pigmies com-
pared to Etna. These have all originated from fiery eruptions. Lastly the eyo con-
templates, with admiration, the Lower Region, which, from its violent heat, may claim
the appellation of the torrid zone ; the most extensive of the three, adorned with elegant
villas and castles, verdant hills, and flowery fields, and terminated by the extensive coast,
where to the south, stands the beautiful city of Catania, to which the waves of the neigh,
bouring sea serve as a mirror.
But not only do we discover, from this astonishing elevation, the entire massy body
of Mount Etna ; but the whole of the island of Sicily, with all its noble cities, lofty hills,
extensive plains, and meandering rivers. In the indistinct distance we perceive Malta ;
but have a clear view of the environs of Messina, and the greater part of Calabria ;
while Lipari, the fuming Vulcano, the blazing Stromboli, and the other Eoliun isles,
appear immediately under our feet, and seem as if, on stooping down, we might touch
them with the finger.
Another object no less superb and majestic, was the far-stretching surface of the sub-
jacent sea which surrounded me, and led my eye to an immense distance, till it seemed
gradually to mingle with the heavens.
Seated in the midst of this theatre of the wonders of Nature, I felt an indescribable
pleasure from the multiplicity and beauty of the objects I surveyed ; and a kind of in-
ternal satisfaction and exultation of heart. Tlie sun was advancing to the meridian, un-
obscured by the smallest cloud, and l^aumur's thermometer stood at the tenth degree
above the freezing i)oint. I was therefore in that temperature which is most friendly to
man ; and the refined air I breathed, as if it had been entirely vital, commimicated a,
TTSr
XW fHE TWO SICILIES.
Hi
vigour and agility to my limbs, and an activity and life to my ideas, which appeared to
be of a celestial nature.
Not without regret, I, at length, recollected it was time to return, and relinquish this
enchanting scene ; since I had determined to pass the ensuing night at San Niccolo
dell' Arena, to avoid die hard bed and inconveniences of the Grotto delle Capre. I had
resolved, likewise, to return to Catania by another way, in order to examine objects
which might render my journey o! greater udlity. The road I took, the objects which
presented themselves, and the observations I made on them, I shall relate in the follow-
ing chapter. . .
CHAPTER IX.
RETURN7?ROM MOUNT ETNA TO CATANIA.
Manner in which the author descended with ease and security from the summit of Etna.... Mate-
rials of which the Torre del Filosofo is composed... .Confirmation that tljc lava which flowed in
' October 1787, is still internally penetrated by the fire....The observation that the secondary
mountains on the sides of Etna are of volcanic origin, not novel but ancient.... Probability that
Monte Losso was the result of a partial eruption which had no communication with the crater
of Etna.... Another eruption from the sides of Etna which had no connection with that crater....
Great want of water experienced by the peasants who inhabit Etna, from a long dry season....
Affecting incident arising from this circumstance.... A scarcity of springs common in volcanizcd
countries....The Scogli de' Ciclopi, or Rocks of Cyclops.... Some of them, but not all, of a pris-
matic conformation.. ..Zeolites found on these rocks....Vitri(tcation of those zeolites in the fur-
nace....Pumices not found on Mount Etna, as has been affirmed by count Borch, and others....
Animals observed by the author in the Middle and Upper Regions of Etna.... Two museums
in Catania already known to strang( iS, and a third lately established, valuable for its contents....
Natural History little cultivated at Catania, with respect to that part which relates to the mine-
ral kingdom ; but more relatively to the animal.
THE ascent up the steep and craggy cone of Etna, though not more than a mile in a
direct line, cost me, as I have already said, three hours of laborious and fatiguing exer-
tion. It seems scarcely necessary to say that the descent employed me less time, but the
difference greatly exceeded my expectation. I found that to effect this descent nothing
more was required, but to fix my feet firmly on some large piece of scorise and balance
my body, since thiit piece, from almost the smallest impulse I could give it, would slide
swiftly down the descent, and convey me to a considerable distance, till stopped by the
accumulation of the lesser pieces of scorise which it drove before it ; when 1 had only to
select another large piece, on which I again glided down as before ; only taking care,
with the staff I held in my hand, to turn aside the pieces of scorise which followed me in
my descent, that they might not strike against and wound my legs. In this manner, in
a few minutes, I arrived at the bottom of that declivity.
A little below the summit of Etna, are the ruins of a very ancient fabric, called La
Torre del Filosotb, the Tower of the Philosopher ; it having been pretended, and be-
lieved by many, that it was built by Empedocles, that he might fix his habitation in a
place convenient for observing the conflagrations of Etna. Others imagine it to have
been an ancient temple of some deity ; while others have conjectured that it was a
watch-tower, built by the Normans to observe the motions of their enemies, and give
notice of them, by some signal, to the different bodies of troops scattered over the island.
86
S>AILANZANI*S TRAVELS
It is very apparent that these, and other opinions which I omit for the sake of brevity,
are very inconclusive with respect to the real use and design ofthis ruined edifice, which
could but little attract the notice of history. I did not visit it in my journey to Etna,
having been conducted another way by my guides. Nor should I have regretted not
having seen it, had I not reflected, that the great antiquity of the fabric might justly ex-
cite a curiosity lo examine the materials, and ascertain whether they were lateritious or
volcanic. This induced me, after I had returned to Italy, to write to the abbate Fran-
cesco Ferrara, at Catania, a person well versed in the science of nature, requesting him
to send mc, to Puvia, some specimens of the materials of which the Torrt del Filosofo
Mas composed. He very politely complied with my request, and I found on examina-
tion, that these materials were of the following kind: they consist, first, of a cement of
lime, which, by length of time, has become carbonate of lime ; in which cement were
incor()orated great numbers of pieces of black cellular scoria: of lava ; but so ciianged
by the cflcct of time, that many of them were become externally pulverulent, and in-
ternally extremely friable. Theshoerls they contained had likewise lost, at the super-
ficies oi the scoriae, their natural lineaments, and all their lustre, and were become so soft
that they might every where be cut with the point of a penknife. This cement was, in
the second place, united to two kinds of lava, which exhaled an argillaceous odour in
their fractures, and had for their base the horn-stone. One of diese was very compact,
extremely hard, of a ferruginous colour, a fine grain, with numerous feltspar points scat-
tered in it. The other was a gray colour, of rather a fine texture, and contained an in-
credible quantity of feltspars ; so that when viewed with a lens, by the clear light of the
sun, it appeared extremely brilliant. The materials, therefore, of this edifice, whatever
was its original destination, were, in part taken from the place, with the addition of a
cement of lime, to give the building the necessary solidity.*
I afterwards, again crossed the lava which flowed in October 1787, and, as I returned
by a difltrent way, I found myself near another part of it, where it still remained ex-
tremely hot ; which tended to confirm me in my opinion that the internal and central
part of this lava still contains a very active and strong fire.
Having reached the middle region, I ascended some of those mountains which I had
obserNed from the summit of Etna, and which, ffom their conical figure, and the ca-
vity at their top, clearly shew that they are the productions of fire.f I was, in fact,
• I have read, in the works of some travellers, that fragments of brick and marble are found in the
Torre del Filosofo ; but the abbute Ferrara has assured mc that such fragments no longer exist.
I I had at first believed that the observation that these mountains are truly volcanic was of late da*e,
referring it to Sir William Hamilton, who has described their conical form, and the crater, or incava-
tion at their summit; but I find it to be very old, since it is mentioned by BorcUi, and, before him, by
Favcllo. The following are the words of the ''ormer : « Extant nedum in sumniitate ^tnae, scd etiam
in ejus dorso, caropestres voragines, qux habent fere omnes peculiarcm monticulum adiustar vcrrucx
in animalis cute cxporrcctae ; suntque predicti colles valde accliv'es, habentquc figuram coni acutan-
guli piano parallclo basi dissecti; etin summitate cujuslibeteorum sinuosa cavitas reperitur, a qua
olim flammeae, arenae, et glarse exierunt." " Extinct vortices (or craters) are found not only on the
summit of Etna, but also on the sides. They have almost all of them their peculiar hills, projecting
like a wart on the skin of an animal ; which hills arc extremely steep, and have the figure of a rectan-
gular cone dissected parallel to its base. At the top of each is a sinuous cavity, from which formerly
issued flames, sand, and lava."
W e know that by glarea he means lava j in fact, at Catania, it is still called sciara.
Fazeilo had before observed and described these volcanic hills. His words are j " Plurimos praeterea
nemorosos et editos ofl'.indimus colics, quorum cacumina voragir.cs, licet filvcscentes, exhibcbant.
Eos vetcremesse mutcriamex visceribus montis olim proditam, prosucmiprofluvii hiatus, qui simi-
lem fore formam, enatasque recens habct arbores, arguebat." " Wc likewise find several lofty hills,
the tops of which, though overgrown with wood, exhibit the appearance of craters. The mouth
It!-. i»L.
I had
the ca-
fact,
IN THE TWO aiCIlIF.S.
87
convinced that they hear iinequi vocal marks of the effects of that dcstructlvo n^^cnt in an
accumulation of lavas, scoriae, and volcanic sand.
Another inquiry relative to these mountains here naturally sucrjifrsts itsiU". Is tlu ir
origin derived from the melted matter contained within the innncnse abyss of Ktii;i,
which, unable to reach the crater, from the extensive height, has huist forth througii its
sides, and thus formed these mountains? or, as is perhaps more proliabic, have they
been produced by particular conflagrations and eruptions which have no communication
with the immense furnace within the crater "? I know that the generality of volcanists
embrace the former opinion, and reject the latter with contempt ; and I find, that,
whenever the lesser mountains are produced on the sides of the principal volcano, by
the means of eruptions, they usually have recourse to this hypothesis for the explication
of the cause. Thus, since the eruptions of lava which have issued from the crater of
Vesuvius are much more numerous than those of Etna, they endeavour to account for
ihc difference, by alleging that, in consequence of the small height of the former vol-
cano, the lava can more easily reach the crater ; whereas, in the latter it is compelled
to force a passage through the side, from being unable to rise to so prodigious an eleva-
tion.
I readily admit, that this frequently happens ; but instances may certainly be cited
which afford strong reasons to believe that the production of the lateral mountain arises
from partial eruptions, which have no communication with the principal crater. Of
this Monte Rosso is an example. In the morning of the 11th of March 1669, a
vast cleft opened not fur from the place in which, afterwards, Monte Rosso arose,
and extended for the space of ten miles, in the direction of the grand crater of Etna.
On the night following, in the place where this mountain now stands, another large
cleft opened, from whien were immediately ejected immense clouds of smoke, and show-
ers of melted stones, preceded by ai tremendous noise and violent concussions of the
earth.
On the night of the 12th a river of lava poured down ; and the nexi day a prodigious
quantity of sand and stones was thrown out. Yet during all these subterranean thunders,
convulsions of the earth, streams of lava, and showers of stones, the upper crater of
Etna us perfectly undisturbed, and only, from time to time, emitted some light smoke
which had betbre issued, and is usually in its greatest slate of tranquillity.* I know
not whether I am mistaken in considering this as a probable proof that there is no com-
munication between the highest mouth of Etna, and the new one which has opened in
the side some miles distant from it. I have observed likewise, with Borelli, that the
of the lust eruption, which ib n irly of the same form, and ah-eady bears trees, renders it probable that
they are composed of the matter anciently ejected from the bowels of the mountain."
The same observation is likewise repeuttd by D'Orville, who, in 1 727, visited Etna. " Colics hi non
solum circum magnum crcterom (ittnaj) verum ctiam inde per circuitum vigintimille passuum et ul-
tra in toto monte dispersi suiit. Omnes hos colles uiiquando igneam matcriam e summo vertice eje-
cisse, omnia suadent ; et in multis hujus rei adeo aperta extant vestigia, ut nemo dubitare possit. Quin
ipse in culminc collis illius, qucm mctse bimilem dixinuis,positosin verticibus nonnuilorum cratcres
depresses, et plane uiidique lapidum exustorum congcrie circundatos animadverti," " These hills are
not oiily found adjoining to the great crater but are dispersed in a circuit of twenty miles and raorc<
and, indeed, throughout the whole mountain. Every appearance proves that all these hills have once
ejected a fiery matter from their summits ; and in many the traces of this are so evident, that it is im-
possible to entertain a doubt. The remains of craters are apparent, and they are frequently surround-
ed with accumulations of burnt stones."
Thus we find the description given by the English naturalist of this lesser volcanic mountain, had
been preceded by that of a Sicilian, an Italian, and a Dutch writer, all eye-witnesses of what they des-
cribed. ,,.,;. . , . IS . , :. ., ,: . * Borelli, ubi sup. ,
ii
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88
SPALLANZAKI S TRAVETa
%'
Jiighc'it crater, havinp; remained silent and iit rest \iniil the twenty-fifth day, aftcrwniv',-
be^riin to ra^c with the same symptoms ol' smoke, thunders, earthquakes, and ejected
sand and stonts ; and in fine, by the ruin ol" its stimmit, precipitated and buried in its
gulf. It sccnis extremely probable, that this ehatige has been effected by the breaking
away of the stony mass which separated the old and new gulh, in consequence of which
the file and efferveseeni matte rs foieed their passage, and discharged themselves fi-om
another opening at the summit of the mountain.
We must not omit to notice another fact related by the same writer, which, though
it does Hot respect the formation of an) mountain on the sides of Etna, independent
of a communication with its highest crater, may authorise us to conclude, that some
lateral gulf may open and disgorge fiery torrents without any such coromunication.
Such an eruption happened in 1636, when the ground nine miles from the summit of
Etna, opened in two places, and p6ured out two torrents of lava without any appear-
ance of fire or smoke at the summit of the mountain. It is very probable that we should
have accounts of other similar eruptions, and other mountains formed on the sides of
Etna, had the ancients studied and recorded the conflagrations of that moimtain, in the
manner tlie moderns have begun to observe and describe them.
\\'hatever may be the matters which cause and continue volcanos, it is only necessary
tliut they should exist and take fire in a place that has no communication with the central
volcano, to produce partial eruptions and mountains, which may very naturally be sup-
posed to happen.
After having slept at San Niccolo dell Arena the night preceding the 5th of Septem-
ber, I set out early the next morning, taking my way by the Rocks of the Cyclops, cele-
brated for the basaltiform lavas of which they consist. In this part of my journey I
continually passed over lavas, and through several villages built upon them.
A short time before I reached the rocks I was in search of, a scene presented itself,
which, though foreign to my subject, the sentiment of humanity and compassion we feel
on witnessing the misfortunes of our fellow-creatures will not permit me to pass in
silence.
Mount Etna has at all times been very deficient in springs ; but when I was there the
scarcity of water was extreme, not a drop of rain having fallen for nine months ; and
the rain-water which the peasants of these places had collected in cisterns being ex-
hausted, they were obliged to go in search of it to those parts of the mountain where a
scanty spring might still be found. Though in my journey up Etna I had sufficient rea-
son to notice this scarcity ol" water, by being made to pay for it much dearer than for
wine at Catania, I was much more convinced of it when, on my way, I saw a number of
women and girls carr}'ing barrels as beasts of burden, to fill with water at a spring on
one side of the road. But the scene which made the greatest impression on me, I met
with on my return, in the vicinity of Jaci ; where 1 saw more than one hundred poor
mountaineers of both sexes, who had come thither to quench their thirst at a stream of
water which issued from the midst of the lava. It strongly excited my pity to see these
wretched peasants, all bare-footed, exposed to a bunung sun, for the heat was then
very great in those low parts of the mountain ; and labouring and sweating under the
load of large earthen vessels, which they, had brought 4)n their shoulders and heads, a
distance of more than ten miles, to carry home water. When they came within sight
of the spring, they exerted all the strength they retained, hastened their weary steps,
and, when they reached it, began to drink with extreme eagerness, without for a long
time taking away their lips. How much was my commiseration increased, when they
mformed me they were obliged to perform this laborious jouniey every day» that is, t»
mm' n- I I 1 1 1 III u U!-'.. .. t*"
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i;mp1<)y the uludc ilay in ll ; travelling' from the tiiur orsiin.ri.p till imon lo rrnch Uu
>prinf;, iiml lioni noon to the dtisk ol" ihii vtninp; t«) r\\;M\\ their hal)iJ;itions, iind cmi\
iflnshnunt to ih( ir p;ir(hal liiniiliis! While I \\;is li,lihin(;to »ht ir vid Mor)', v
f'hanitd th;it oiu olthcni, a hoj ahout thiitiin jiars nf «>;(•, insittinj^ down the vtfjsil
he carridl on his shouUUr, let it hlip, I know not hf)U, otit o( his hand, nnd it hrok'
by the iail. Words can Mrarccly discrilu: the consfirnation, f;rief, and nnfjiiish, with
uhiih heapiHarcd transfixed at the accident, while uith hitter tears and in hrokin <k
(laniations hi l.iinentcd his mislortune, and t xpressed his (ears of the conMeqm iicc s he
a|)|irihendid In hinisetf, froni his being thus disaJjUd iioni carrx'uig home to his thirsty
j)arii»ts tlu.ixiieeted supply. As little h it possible to (kncrilu: the joy, delight, and
lively MUtinum of (];rutitiide uliieh he expressed, on iny giving him n snuill piece ol
money that he might buy, in a neijdibauring \ illage, anothi r vessel to replace that which
was broken, and complete with the ujh:*'! siiccetis his lab«)rious journey.
Mtna is not alone w^antily supplied will» springs. I have observed a similar scarcit)
of them in ihi Kolian or Ltpari islands, as we shall see in another part of this work ;
and it I am not mistaken, the same want j! ihem will be found in other volcanic eoinv
tries ; the cause ol which appears to mc evident. 'I'he rains which descend on moun
tains of this kind, either fall on bibacious tiif.is or .scoriaccons matters, in u hich thej sink
deep widiout again appearing on the surface in the lower places, iuxanse they meet with
no argillaceous or stony strata to detain them ; whereas siich strata arc frctpient in
moimtains not volcanic, and produce ncinerous dropping springs, fountains, and sources
of rivers, as wc find in the Alps and Apennines.
When again the rains fall on the solid and compact lavas, they do not sink into them,
but run down their declivities, forming indeed rivers and torrents, in the rainy season,
but never true springs. In several parts of Etna, and especially near the Grotta dellc
Capre, I have seen large furrows hollowed in the lavas, by the continued action of the
rain-water.
Two hours after noon I arrived at the Rocks of the Cyclops ; which are likewise
termed islands, because surrounded b) the sea, though du:\ arc scarcely a stone's throw
from the shore on which the village of Trezza stands. It is possible that they might
once make a part of the sides of Ltna, and have been separated from them by the sea ;
or they may have been thrown up out ol'the '.vatcr by partial eruptions. 1 examined
them, firat making the circuit of them in a boat, and then ascending them to observe
their parts.
It is immediately apparent that some of Uicsc rocks consist cxtcrrwlly only of prismatic
columns, which fall per^)endicularly into the sea, in some places of the length of one
foot, in others two, and in others more ; but it is certain that other parts of these rocks
have not the least prismatic appearance, and arc only full of very irregular fissures,
which have divided them into irregular pieces, as wc frequently see in common lavas.
The Rocks of the Cyclops present another object which has not escaped the acute
examination of M. Dolomjleu ; I mean the numerous and various zeolites of great beau-
ty which are found on their surface, and even in the middle of their substance, where
there are small pores and cavities. That naturalist thinks, with great reason, that these
noble stones, after the congelation of the lavas derived their origin from the waters
which filtrated through them, a>id held in solution the particles pro|jer for the produc-
tion of zeolites. It would be a useless labour were I to attempt their description after
it has been so well given by M. Dolomieu ; I shall, therefore, only mention what I ob-
served in them when I examined them in the furnace.
VOL. V,
N
J>0
SrALLANZANl's TRAVELS
If \\c take sninll pions o( \.\\\., dctnf hrcl froin ihc rooks to which the zeolites ndhorc,
leave tliotn lor s(M1u time ii\ the fiiv, imd observe thcin alter tluy huxc cookil, the lol
lowing are the results:
Tlie zeolites, though the la>a, their matrix, has not undergone a complete fusion,
are \ itrifud. and ha\e rt<n\»d over the sutfaet of the lava, forming a leaf of glass ; hut
thi' griaferpatt lHe(Mne globules, whieh, from tluir lueid milky whiteness, res( n\blc
pearls. \\'hen examined with the lens, these glolnilesare found to be full of craeks,
probably caused by the siuUU n renvnalof llu la\as from the furnace into the cold air.
This glass is semi-transparent and hard. If we break the pieces of lava exposed to the
fin aiul examine the fractures, we shall find that only a semi-vitrification has taken place
in the zeolites they contain. Souk of these ;:eolitic lavas, are of a homogeneous sub-
stance, but others include small shoerls. The magtiet attracts the powder of them, and
some haNc polarity, attracting one end of the magnetic needle, and repelling the other.
1 haxc but a few obser\ations more to make, relatixe to Ktua. Count Borclt, not
perfectly satisfied w ith the received divisi.vi; of the mountain into three regions, the
lower, the middle, and the higher, h;,s added a finuth, which he calls the region of
snow ; and ea< h oi the four n gions he again subdivides into several districts. 1 shall
not dispute wiilihmi ihese minute disti icti<ins, w hi :h, whethtr they tend more to clear-
ness or confusion ma} be difficult to determine. I shall only make some brief re
marks on his district of scoriae, in tlv second ivgion, of which he says : " The district
of sci)ri;c eonti^ins a surface of two miles entirely co\ered with pumices, ashes, and
>coria:.'"
\\'illiout noticing the scoria: and ashes, I know not what he understood by pumices.
The trnili is, th.it luna afl'ords none, as Dolomieu, who so minutely examined the
mountain, has expressly assertid ; and, as I took nearl} the same road with Boreli, I
nuist haxe met with them had they been so plentiful as he describes. The chevalier
(Viocni, likewise, in his account of the products of the eruption of 1787, describing
one which, in its ctMifigunuion resembles the porous pumices of Lapari, remarks that
ihis is the first time that Ktna has ejected such a kind of stone.*
In my journc) to Ktna, and on my return, at the same time that I examined volcanic
{•bjccts I did not neglect to observe whether the two more elevated regions of the moun-
tain were inh;;lVitcd b\ animals. A little beyond Monte Rosso, I bought five patridges
('lYtrao rufusLin.) of a sportsman, who had shot them at the upper extremity of the
^niddle region. Thise I had roasted at San Niccolo dell' Arena, and they furnished me
,uc!i :wo good mi-als. In crossing the same region I met with several birds of the tit-
mouse species (Pavus major; Parus eoerulcus Lin.) a kite (Falco milvus) three jays
(Corvus glanduiarins) two thrushes (Turdus viscivorus) and several ravens and crows
(Corvus corax ; Cor\ us corone :) half way up the higher region I saw no other animals,
except some lion-ants (Myrmeleon formic;;rum Linn.) which made their pit-falls in the
dust of the laxas. Thi re were several o{' them in a dusty comer of the Grotta delle
Caprc. As they live by ensnaring other small animals, and especially ants in the slip-
• Borch is not the o.-ly person who has fullen into this error. Sir William Hamilton, when he
■visited F.tna, found there no pumices ; hut he vas told in- the Canon Recupero of Catania that the
mountain produred thi in : the Canon, however, it is well known, was unacquainted with the first prin-
ciples of liLhcicgj . Baron Riedescl, vhu in this part of science, was perhaps not superior to the Ca-
non, says that pumice is amonp,' the number of stones ejected by Etna; and joins with it the sand-
stone ; a production which, accoi-dinp to those best acquainted with the mineralogy of volcanos, is as
much a stranp^er to Etna as the pumice. One of these writers may, probably, have induced M. Sage
to assert that " Etna throws out a jjrcat quantity of pumices." This gross error was probably occa-
sioned by the resenthlance which to persons little acquainted with such substances, scoris and cellu-
lar lavus appear to have to pumices.
^s adhere,
, the Inl-
tc fusion,
lass ; hut
rcs( inhlc
if cracks,
^ cold air.
scd lo the
ken place
ous sub-
hem, and
■ other,
orch, not
;ions, the
region of
. 1 shall
2 to clear-
brief re
le district
shes, and
pumices,
(lined the
Borcii, I
chevalier
kseribing
Kirks that
1 volcanic
he moun-
patridges
liiv of the
Dished me
of the tit-
three jays
xnd crows
r animals,
alls in the
otta delle
i the slip-
n, when he
Ilia that the
ic first prin-
' to the Ca-
t the sand-
canos, is as
ed M. Sag^e
ibably occa-
e and celiu*
IN THK nVn S M I r t l.'i.
<n
pcrv pits thry form; it maybe necessary lo observe, tliiit these ate not wanting there,
though I (lid not see tin ni.
The city of (.'alania, tlnriii|r my stay there, aMi|»ly alFordc (I nic thf ni(aiis of iini;s(*
imut and instruction. 'I'lic tvv«» nnis( iims, the one bcloii";!!!}; to the priiKc di ili^rari.
and the otiur to tin- l^nedicliiK' l'"atli('is, bcsidi s tli(^ various ol)]^ 1'^ they coitlaiii rela
tivc to the arts and antiquiiies, are also lurnislicd with a cold ( Hon of natur.il produc-
tions, and will be fotnul to correspond to the j^rcat cxpc( talions that may have been
formed of th(m from the advantaj^t <ius dcscri|)tions of Hic«l< s( I, Bryd'tnc, i:nd Hf<rrli.
That f)f the prince is disiin}.;nished by some rare specimens which mij^ht adorn the rirli .
est and most extensive (»>lle< lions, lint in that ( ity a third mnsfnui, hitherto littk
known, because it is new, is bi j:;innin}^ to llourish. It may I'c "^lid it is yd in its infancy ;
but the infant may become a fj;ianl. 'I'he possessor and fonnrK r of it is ilie ehevalirr
Ciioeni. His first intention was to collect tlie most curious and inlcrcstiuL; prfxlnctions
of the Sicilian sea; and he has siicciedcd admirably. VVc here find dry prt p.iratioiis
of the fishes most remarkable for their form or the rarity of their spceies. Amonf^tlic
numerous families of /.oophyta, the ale yonia, the antipathes, the celliilarijr, the es( hare,
the pennatuK-c, the scrlulariic, the millcportc, and the isides (cejt.il) are not vvantiii<( ; but
the madrepoijc and the ge)rge)n;e arc the mf)st conspicuous for their be.auty and rarity.
It is equally well furnislud with specinu ns of the prine;ipal criistaceous animals of that
sea, but the numerous and che>scn collection of those of the testaceous kind is the jain-
cipal ornament of the museum. With respect te) these, we find a practice adopted we
meet with in no other cabinet. As there are some extremely minute shells, in size not
exceeding a grain of sand, which it is impossi!)le to view distinctly with the naked eye,
they arc as it were lost in the greater part of other museums ; but here they are placed,
methodically distributed, at the bottom of small tubes, at the other end of which is a
lens ; by die aid of whieli the eye is enabled to discover the beauty of the colours, the
peculiarity of the involutions, the infinite variety of the forms, the windings of the aper-
tures, the cavities, prominences, points, threads, 8cc. In fine,tliese points of organized
matter, by this means, etpially with the larger crustaceous animals, afford [)leasurc to
the eyes of the curious, and useful instruction to the learned, for characterising
the species.
The chevalier Gioeni, in consequence of his researches relative to these aquatic ani-
mals, has distinguished himself by the discovery of a new genus of multivalve conchy-
lia, which he has already made known; but he will do himself much more honour by
the publication of a work on the subject on which he is now employed.
He has not confined himself to marine productions, but has extended his diligence to
terrestrial ; and the neighbouring volcano has added to his collection. VVe here find
specimens of ali the Etnean products; and amid die multitude of various lavas he has
collected, he has discovered a new species, which he has denominated fibrous. The
method he has adopted of placing the different lavas with the stones and primitive rocks,
from which they derive their or.'gin, is highly instructive.
Equally conducive to the advancement of know ledge is the numerous series of testa-
ceous fossils, which he has collected with great labour to the north-east of Etna,, in a
situation more than three hundred poles above the level of the sea. These extremely
resemble the natural which are now found in the neighbouring waters. But as the time
when the sea reached to th.it height is certainly anteriejr to the annals of history, of what
great antiquity must the volcano be which existed before that epocha !
The productions of this part of Sicily are accompanied with those of the rest of the
island. We find a noble collection of marbles and jasiiers, w ith various minerals, and
crystallized sulphurs.
N 2
\
.^o-*
l!
02
iir. M.LANZA NTS I'RAVELS
Though this m\isciini deserves great commendution for the multiplicity and ehoice ol"
the objects collected within a few years, it perhaps deserves still greater praise for tV ac-
curate and judicious luaniur in which every part of it is systematised ; arcgulati-^n.cx-
ircniely necessary in every collection, and which it is to be wis'ned might be introduced
into the tuo other museums before nnntioncd.
1 hav( been somewhat niore difluse in my description of this collection, because it me-
rited to be known to fonigncrs who, should they chance to visit Catania, may by its
means procure information of various productions of Sicily and the neighbouring sea,
which they might elsewhere seek in vain.
The chevalier Gioeni is professor of natural liistory in the university of his countr}',
which can likewise boast of other men of genius, principally in polite literature. The
natural sciences, especially those w hich have relation to the Ibssil kingdom, are not the
most cultivated ; less I believe from indisposition towards them, than from want of en-
couragement. It is not the same w ith respect to the other two kingdoms. While 1
was at Catania, I had the honour to receive visits from several persons of learning ; and
I found that more than one of them had read with advantage the works of Bonnet, Buf-
fon, and Duhamel. Among them may be distinguished the Abbate Don Francesco
Ferrara, who afforded me the opportunity of examining the materials of the Torre del
Filosofo. The taste for these extensive branches of natural history niust become greater,
and spread more extensively, from the laudable example set by Signior Ferrara, who
has lately published in Sicily, The Contemplation of Nature of the philosopher of Ge-
neva (Bonnet:) to which he has added, besides my notes and those of others, a great
number of his own, replete with learning and good sense, which must render such a work
still more valuable.
VOLUArE THE SECOND.
THK LIPAUl ISLANDS.
INTRODUCTION.
The vulcanization of these ishinds known to the ancients, and studied l)y si'\ eral of the moderns....
A wiile fu Id for observation, nevertheless, left for others.... FeUcuda and Alicuda, two of these
islands, fust examined by the .luthor.
THK Lipari islands are situated in the Mediterranean, between Sicily and Italy, and
are called the Eolian isles, from ili^olus their reputed king, but more generally the Li-
pari islands, from the name of the principal and largest. Though they were anciently
known to be volcanic, and therefore are called vulcanian, it is only in modern times that
their vulcanization has been considered as an interesting object of the researches of the
Ehilosopher, who labours to promote the knowledge of nature. M. de Luc, Sir William
[amilton, and the Commcndator Dolomieu, in this respect, particularly deserve notice.
The former of these naturalists, in the year 1757, visited Volcano, one of these islands,
and made a number of observatioiis ; especially with respect to the principal circum-
stances relative to its extensive crater.
The same island, as well as that of Stromboli, exercised the curiosity of Sir William
Hamilton ; though he only saw it at a distance, as he was returning from Messina to
Naples, in the year 1768. The accounts of these two writers will be related and ex-
ammed in their respective places.
But much more complete and interesting, relative to volcanic inquiries, is the infor.
mation we received from the Commcndator Dolomieu, in his work entitled " A Voyage
to the Lipari islands."* The field, however, in which he laboured is so extensive and
productive, that there is still room for new and abundant harvests. These islands are
ten in number, and he remained there only eight days, circumstances perhaps not per-
mitting him a longer stay. Some of them, it is true, are very small ; yet others would
require many weeks to examine them minutely. Atnong the latter is the island of Li-
pari, which is nineteen and a half Italian miles in circuit.
Thtse considerations, therefore, far from causing me to abandon my design of visit-
ing and ex.imining these countries, rather increased my desire to carry my plan into exe-
cution; and the work of M. Dolomieu itself gave the last impulse to my determination.
With a candour worthy oS" himt^elf, he thus concludes his observations : " In the descrip-
tion I have given ol the Eolian isles, I do not pretend that I have been able to point out
every thing interesting which they contain, or entirely exhausted the subject ; I rather
hope that I shall excite other travellers, who have more time at their disi)osal, to exa-
mine them with attention ; in which case, I can assure them, they will be rewarded with
a much more abundant harvest than that I have reaped."
I shall conclude with adding that two of these islands, Felicuda and Alicuda, were not
visited by this naturalist ; and it was no sm ill gratification to me to recollect that I was
the first who had examined them. Wherever I have been preceded by M. Dolomieu, I
shall not fail to notice it to the reader ; and, while I relate my own observations, shall
be careful to do justice to his discoveries.
* Viaggio alle Isole di Lipari.
1 1
_«?•
91.
SPALLANZANI S TRAVELS
CHAPTER X.
STROMBOLI.
rijc liRsof tliis volcano visible by night at the tlistunce of a hundred milts....Their apparent in-
ttrniissions....IntLrmissions in the smoke seen by tliiy....Shoals of dolphins met with near this
island.... Appearances observed in the sm.ike of the volcano, when seen at a small distance....
Kxplosions of the volcano....The alterations in the volcano symptoms of the changes of the at-
mosphere, according to the opinion of the people of Stromboli....Signs of good and b.id weather
deduced from these alterations Observations on these prognostics, made by the author during
a stay of five-and-thirty day8....Phenomena of the volcano observed at the distance of two miles
from' the cniter....Quality of the ashes ejected at that time....Quality and origin of the sand
which occupies a considerable part of the island.... Internal constructure of the island....Conjec.
tures that the crater of this volcano was anciently at the summit of Stromboli....The island form-
ed of a single, but bifurcated mountain....Incontrovertible testimonies that for more than a cen-
tury the crater of this volcano has been situated towards the middle of the mountain....Error of
Sir William Hamilton in placing this crater at the summit....The opinion, generally admitted, of
the intermissions of the conflagration of Stromboli, probably not well founded....The eruptions
ut that time much weaker than they frequently are....The declivity of the mountain to the west
the only place where the ejected matter falls into the sea.... Absurd reason assigned by the in-
habitants of the Eolian isles why that part of the sea into which the ejected matter falls is never
filled with volcanic substances....Exnlanation of the author.... Description of the road up the
mountain towards the crater.... Height of Stromboli....Hot acid-sulphureous fumes near the sum-
mit, which have an internal communication with the volcano....Remains of an ancient crater at
the summit of Stromboli.... Appearance of the ejections seen from above....Their perpendicular
height....Conclusivc proofs that the volcano of Stromboli is not intermittent, as some travellers
have asserted....the cavity of the crater of this volcano probably not very deep....Streams of
smoke which issue from three several parts of the volcano....The author succeeds in an attempt
to approach nearer to the crater....Phenomena which he observed in consequence of this
nearer approach....Form and structure of the crater....Liquid lava within it....Qualitics of that
lava...The eruptions of Stromboli litde, or not at all, intermittent....Observation3 made by night
within the crater itself.... An unexpected and terrible phenomenon.... Its explanation.
THE island of Stromboli is distant from Sicily fifty miles, and is the first of the Eolian
isles to the north-east. It was called ^TfoyftM. by the ancient Greeks, from its round
figure, and was celebrated for its extraordinary volcano. Etna, Vesuvius, Hecla, and
other burning mountains, rage at intervals, and vomit forth torrents of fire, but after-
wards relapse into a total inaction which continues several years, and sometimes whole
centuries; but the eruptions of Stromboli are continual, though not so continual but
that, according to the accounts of all the modern travellers, t'ley have sometimes short
periodical intermissions.
1 sailed from Naples for Sicily on the 24th of August 1788 ; and the next night,
having proceeded to a considerable distance beyond the straits of Capri, I began to dis-
cover the fires of Stromboli, though at the distance of at least a hundred miles. I ob-
served a sudden blaze, which feebly struck my eyes, and after two or three seconds
disappeared. After ten or twelve minutes the flame again became visible, and again dis-
appeared. I observed this phenomenon for several hours, and it only dift'ered in its
iN THE TWO SICILIES.
95
loiif^cr or shorter duration, and the intervals between its appearaticcs. The mariners
with whom 1 sailed testified coiisideraljle joy at the sight of this fire, as they assured mc
that, were it not for the li;^ht it aflord- d in dark and stormy nights, they should fre(|iient.
ly be indanj^er of being shipwrecked at sea, (jr running on shore on the neighbouring
coast of Calabria.
When they arrived, and we had approaclied much nearer the volcanic island, the light
of the sun prevented the flame from being visible ; but a smoke appeared, wiiich had near-
ly the same alternations with the fire before observed. As I was now, however, on my
way to Messina, with intention to ascend and examine Mount Etna, I soon lost sight of
the volcano, which I proposed afterwards to visit, on my return from Sicily, when I
should take up my residence for a short time in Lipari.
This design I carried into execution on the 1st of October, taking the advantage of ii
felucca which was returning to Stromboli. We sailed early in the morning, a strong
south-west wind blowing, and some clouds floating in the atmosi)here which appeared
to threaten a tempest. The sea was rough ; but the wind being in our favour, the
master of the felucca, who was at the same time our pilot, encouniged us against the.
fear of any accident, only telling us, in a jocular manner, that we should have a little
dancing. All the sails were set, and we flew rather than s;iilcd over the surface of the
sea. Though the wind continually increased, and the sea ran higher, so that we were
sometimes hanging on the pinnacle of a wave, and again plunged to the bottom of a
yawning gulf, we had nothing to fear, as the gale was exactly in our stern ; and in less
than three hours we arrived at Stromboli, which is thirty Italian miles from Lipari, and
anchored on the north-east side of the island, where the body of the mountain breaking
the force of the wind rendered the sea somewhat more calm.
During a great part of this voyage we were accompanied by a number of fish, which
appeared to attend us as an escort. These were dolphins, which surrounded the ship,
playing their gambols, and springing sometimes from the stern to the prow, and back
again; then suddenly plunging under the waves, and as suddenly re- appearing, holding
up their snouts, and throwing up the water to the height of several feet from the spiracles
which they have in the head. On this occasion I observed what I had never noticed
before in any of the smaller fish of the cetaceous kind in other seas, I mean the incredible
swiftness with which they swim and turn in the water. They would frequently dari;
from the stern to the stem of the ship, and, though they had to encounter the resistance
of the agitated waves, fly \vith the rapidity of an arrow.
But I return to observations of another kind, and such as are relative to the principal
object of this work.
As we advanced towards Stromboli, which was continually befo.e me, I observed that
its summit was covered with a very thick smoke, which extended to the brow of the
mountain. I landed at nine in the morning, and eager to gain information relative to
the volcano, without delay began to ascend the mountain, till I lurived at the extreme
edge of the smoke, which I wished to examine with attention. This smoke, to all ap-
pearance perfectly resembled tne clouds. In the lower part it was black and dark, and
white and shining in the upjjer : from the former being penetrated with but little of the
solar light, and Uie latter y»ith a greater quantity. It was so thick that the sun could
not be seen through it. The upper part of it separated into a number of globes, and
various irregular and unusual forms, which, acconling to the motion of the air, ascended,
descended, or took a circular course, becoming whiter and more irradiated by the sun
the higher they arose ; all which appearances are observable in the clouds, especially in
the time of summer. This smoke, when it had reached a great height, became so thin
^<f
H
arALLANZANl's TRAVILS
as to be lonj^cr disci . niblc by the eye. The sulphureous acid it contained was ex-
treinely manifest, and so inconvenient to respiration, tliat I was obliged to return to the
plain, not bein|jf able at that time to attempt a nearer approach to the volcano, from
U'hirh dull and hollow explosions were almost continually heard.
The remainder of the day I employed in interrogating the people of the island relative
to their volcano, it appearing to me that no persons eoiild give me more information
than those who continually had the mountain before their eyes. The following were
the aecoiMJts I rcceivid from them. When die north or north-west winds blow, the
smoke is little in cpiantity and white, and the explosions of the volcano very moderate;
whereas the latter are louder and more frequent, and the former much more extensive
and I)liek, or at least dark, when the south-west, south-east, or south winds prevail ; and
should any one of these three winds blow with violence, the smoke will sometimes spread
itself over the whole island, and darken it like heavy clouds in rainy weather. Should
this cloud of smoke thus extend itself when the vines of Stromboli are in leaf, if it re-
mains onl} a R w hours, it u ill not injure them ; but should it continue a whole day, or
longer, the grapes \vill not ripen, or at least the vintage will be less productive. The
smoke constantly has the odour of burning sulphur, and consequently is very disagree-
able and noxious.
This thick and copious smoke, ^^ hich is commonly accompanied with more violent
and frequent eruptions, not only is emitted while the south, south-east, imkI south-west
winds blow, but precedes these \\inds several days. The pef)plc of the country are
therefore enabled to foretel the winds which will be propitious or adverse to mariners.
They told me that not unfrequently vessels which hud anchored at Stromljoli during
the winter, and proposed to sail because the sea appiMred calm and the weather favour-
able, had been induced to remain longer by the observance of these prognostics, which
they had not found deceitful. The knowledge of these indications is not, however, the
fruit of the modern observations of these islanders : it is extremely ancient,* and has
been transmitted from the most remote ages to the present, from generation to gi-nera-
tion, and will probably be delivered down in like manner to the latest posterity. iEolus,
who is said to have reigned in these islands, is styled in fable the king of the Winds,
probably, as some writers have conjectured, because, from the changes in the smoke
and eruptions of the volcano, he was able to predict what winds would blow.
I shall here (if I may be allowed a short digression not unsuitable to my subject) relate
the observations which I made relative to the connection between the phenomena of the
atmosphere and those of the volcano, during the five-and-thirty days which I remained
in the Eolian isles ; the smoke of Stromboli by day, and the flames by night, being
clearly visible in those islands and the adjacent sea.
Twice within that time on the 13th of September and the 1st of October, the Libec-
cio, or south-west wind, blew strong. The first time no sensible change was observa-
ble in the volcano of Stromboli, though according to the assertion of the people of the
island, the smoke should have collected thicker round the mountain, and the explosions
have become louder. The second time, the appearan'^ s approached nearer to those
the} describe.
The Scilocco, or south-east wind, blew three times ; on the 21st and 26th of Septem-
ber, and the 7th of October. This wind, if we believe the mariners of Stromboli, has
a similar effect on their volcano with the south-west ; and in fact, on two of the above-
* Those who wish to know the productions of the ancients, relative to the changes in the air and the
aea, deduced from the smoke and fires of Stromboli, may consult the Sicilia Antiqua of Philip Cluvcrius.
IN THE rWO SlClUKo.
07
mentioned days, while this wind blew, the eruptions wcrr stronger, and the cloud ol
smoke more extensive ; I)ut the third time these efTccts were not ohservahlc.
On the contrary, the north wind, whicii blew on the 1 1th and 1 2th of October, and
which, according to these islanders, leaves the voleaiif) at n-st, w;is preceded and arr.om-
panied by explosions which were heard in the other islands, and b)' a larjije cloud of
smoke which covered the half of Stromboli, and rose w ith a while ed^^e, like that wc
sometimes observe in tempestuous clouds.
I must add, thi\t sometimes, though not a breatli of wind blew, die eruptions were
very copious, and the smoke was extremely thick.
ThtoC observations render mc not much inclined to receive implicitly all that the
people of Stromboli so positively assert relative to their volcano ; and tlie less, since the
mariners of the other Molian isle's are of a diftlrent opinion. When I was at Kelicuda,
where the eruptions of Stromboli may be very clearly seen by night, those eruptions
were very strong, and almost continual, and every one was followed by an explosion,
which might be very distinctly heard in that island. I turned to one of the mariners
of Felicuda, who stood near me, and asked him what he thought of the |)rognostics of
that volcano. He returned me the following brief sentenlious answer: Stromboli non
la marinaro. Stromboli will not make a seaman. To determine, however, ^vith certainty,
whether there are any direct and immediate relations between the changes of the at-
mosphere and those of Stromboli, and what those relations are, would require a series
of otiservations for several years, made on the spot by some intelligent and unprejudic
ed naturalist, and these we certainly have not.
I shall now proceed to relate what I observed relative to the volcano on the night of
the 1st of October. My residence was in a cottage on the north side of the island, about
half a mile from the sea, and two miles from the volcano; but so situated that the cloud
of smoke round the mountain scarcely permitted me to see the top of the fiery ejections.
I employed more hours of the night in making my observations, than I permitted my-
self for repose; and the following is a brief summary of the principal appearances I
noticed.
The south-cast wind blew strong. The sky, which was clear, the moon not shining,
exhibited the appearance of a beautiful aurora borcalis over that part of the mountain
where the volcano is situated, and ^^'hich from time to time became more red and bril-
liant, when the ignited stones were thrown to a greater height from the top of the moun-
tain. The fiery showers were then more copious, and the explosions which followed
them louder, the strongest resembling those of a large mine which does not succeed
properly, from some cleft or vent. Every explosion, however, slightly shook the house
in which I was, and the degree of the shock was proportionate to the loudness of the
sound. I do not believe that these shocks were of the nature of the earthquake ; they
were certainly to be ascribed to the sudden action of the fiery ejections on the air, which
struck the small house in which I was, in the same manner as the discharge of a cannon
will shake the windows of the neighbouring houses, and sometimes the houses them-
selves. A proof of this is, that the fiery showers always were seen a few seconds before
the shock was felt ; whereas the house was so near the volcano, that had it been a real
earthquake, no interval of time would have been perceptible.
Before the morning rose the fiery light over the volcano increased so much, at three
different times, that it illuminated the whole island, and a part of the sea. This light
was each time but of short duration, and the showers of ignited stones were, while it
lasted, more copious than before.
VOL. V.
«»#
■•> M » « vr» ^y t * tw « vri •«
On \\\v tHiMUlnji ,>( \\u «»r»'Hi1(>( fh( s-HM'' »M"ti(li lilt sdiilh « "Hf ^vjtul M.tr stronjf^r
ihnM fU'», n«M< iht *r;iiii<H fiM:«»h ;»i>»MUll 'Vht smukc nf Sfi'imlvili Infjiwdri kind of
r«|> iimmmI \hi ti'p nl tlv t«tMiM!!»hi. « h\v\\ ili ^n mli el fn»i<li |(im rf flnn mi flic |irr<'MliiijJt
»^^ \h< l*!v MiMMi •"<'<» n lllf I'MMI ; ImH Ow I m»m mMmms mT tl»r w>l<'iH(» « ff c fnorr
^ioltiH \ Im tApli'^inMH «»n t«n rii'iMMil. ImM !|I";ms\hiIi ;» IimIKmv s(mmi<I ; .'iiid tJK*
«.jf<i« t< -nl^t « in-^t M«i1 llv «r!MMi«1 »1i' ( l|iMp,K f«l llic pi (t|i|c (<| iIk iMliiiid In iIk mnfn
|i|>p^lu •••I'lMiMi^ i^'pt tMiil <iM pltnlilpllv sjM ink It i1 1^1(11 llit sr mnIhs, hs flirv nrc crillrd
!^< \\yi ^^^^\^i*•. ImiI on » >Mnit»v>lii«M 1 I'imiimI iIvimIii i M»it'Hi'f pinpMlv rtwitt s. Imt vtrv
ftiv I; »n'»M-<i««< «<.M^\ I tM»<ji«iiMji i<t^m "innll ui^iin'-'. nl mi> ilt it nniiinHnf »n.<lrv. !<m(I
i>M*tihi» »lv <iMmI^ ;<n(< " Wi Ii mniiMi infn pinnln imilt i flir finjv'f I'lur wrr fi<»t
^> n \'» <Umm ;^ nfnon* ivMiM'* . in i floin ImImiih -i ijmv ami a mm. ••ttni fraiispnfrnt,
«n\^ ^•^^ lijiln. \\y\\ «.ntn «iU 0>v»« i«n iIm Minii, I'Ih ii li^iiv pri<r«nlM Innn llic i»r< nt
<^Man1k^ >M xi«irU« t^v ptM>o"lMil» \h\\ • (MMiiin, mill "Mili r;nis»s tlu in. uIhii vi<>v<(|
Mi<lMt>r U n*. <'»>l»tin- «oni» «> «( n^Mant r 1<« t'v «»a pu'ilmt'u'n nl iinkninrn nfij^in calNd
V^v ^*l:nnV r« a««ni\'\nM» «li:n ihi « » I iipiii»n<9 «rn it it inii'nsiilt inMr. rinnpau'el with
»^>iW^*n «^h^ I>at1 (iMnmb «:<V« nplirv. ilniiiMi "lui Ih1«!1«!Iu s li!«1, in !i fi " hours, lofiii
0(< * tOX>iii\^ o\ti \hy 0y^\\\)x\ ?n«< I'm Ivmi**! « nl siMfal iiuhi •« thii k ; ami flic Hfjm*^^
»W\«iXX^> .Mi« «vn »r:>U>»>^< «M H ilv mIi.^Ii i«laml. i(< ihi "Mat ilaniajr* "• 'hr viiurimH
j^m^ x^*i>(>U nln. h wmv n» m \\\\ \\A\-v\<\ ^» uhii U ilu H:niu«» rtnnnuiiiitatnl.*
Ai^it^V '^■AS »\\\M>i\\\. yW h«>jH \ h;\«\ inUH 'iiuil ihal I simiilil hr al>l» imnn (hif( Iv (o
xWl <K x\NV;xni« <<<% ^ K\\ Su\^\\\y^^\ ^\\\:\\\\ «\innt»i«lM il ; •jiiii t I iniisl h.nt li.ul Itt p;iSM
Ji^^ii^' W-M-'i xM Om nvMMWiV «n»ii>l\ v>m«i\iI «i(h«jinnki. chilli hail « sliiuUd its«>ir so
yx*iV\x llvvo^^u?^ ftM\ {\\M \\ y\M\\^^^\\\W\\h\^^ i<*liiMil liUltiud. llmtlnrr, n»r »"-
♦rtiK.^tAVjr*''*'!^^^ > «ri} '(Jh n\ \l\U>. sh«M«M \\y\\ phn« nuMv limniiiihli. mul (iiipitnal my
«hI^ ^"il < >?iH^^Vi'.<n;.: »?*v |M<n\ mjmI pi»*hu UiMIr »»| \W plan .
\\ IvTv »vi I jVfS.vx^ «n \\\^ \ Uiunvl \\k \\\\\i\y •i\\{^\^ . lo <ln^ lasl ami imilh lasf.rom-
fHVW^ ."r ti 1v^ 1 x\nK Ai«\^ %A\y\\. riu" <«;\n»l i<» an aj:>:n fjalc nl liap nunis of sIkhtIs, as
Sf,v Kf ; ivin'>ji'iiv>', Vv M. iVsli^n^uu , !Mi<>tlun \m \i»n it uiih tin luis. wi ih^ctivcr,
ItjrsWkv 5W vl^^t^lv. v*^ii,;\ ii.*v vnu^vlx \>|vvpu\ ami ai\ aUravtnl In tlu majjiut.a mnn-
tx*! •'fl >JiVf^1!| 'iVAr.VjV'iviU <>r\\\ \\\\\\\\\y \\^\\\^, \y\ A \ill<>ui'-h f.n « n iini init . ;in(l which
«« iitiW^iWivk |^'^ 'iW wv^^KK \ \irts ^U»»il»Unl whi tlui »lu sc wt it liko« is( liMKint iits of
WlfK'JCiils. hvA i-li f> \',-i^-v<v^'. ^jvvK>. *M \>lH(h\i tluN \Mix > «>lt anil i hit solili s ; ihur tx*
Ttv-iftK wi.Wi'N'ivs* i^t** jvvnv.i^uv^i; itu' tv> a>oci1rtin Uu «r natviir hv any salisliirtorj t x|»<>
I'^'sw^*? <\'^rH\> ir,V I.W K.^. 1\>\W vh>l;UUT aJ" moiv iha'ta nnir Iruiii ihr shf>rc ;
<», JvpifV >/ivs5 iv^nr-i v> MiWn\i:; Wt Uvou.ikcn ix]\uun\il. \*lun ii li^ul Ihcii pirviously co.
HW*'vf! vttlti ':>J?lTA> j'c.-ilv.vix i^ tvJcsWN lOA >\\\\ giwHcr tlisitnu-c.
Thf >«r J. <«^i,^ jv^ V-r^io i?w\>,M;;^i thi* nmhI; t<xi- iWwn pari of ihr shore bo dn>» into
♦lYfilc<Af{j-n:i^^ «<i; f'AT^fr !»< lfiV,jr.r(!(J. bitt nrnHkuxi MMncwhui nu>rc firsh hv havinj^ldt ap.irt
-rtf tTs «>!?>> ki ttw sir.w;. Ji> Ih^>jic:;^ :w iJi;: Mine xralcr \>hin it issiu s, droj) by drop,
ihrruip'ti u k»5|^ U;'lx f ^Kxi wi*?i v^vind, :Urwugl» \xl>ioh it is filtral. The fishermen of
•Strnmri^iL 'v^hcu^ ihr*. vx ct WiRl vi" ilH'sli v\d!cr, fnLnjucnily dig wells oiuhc shore, and
^kuTjk ill.' wij'rja- xbt-sf jSc/rd.
lii- y.iini;
* TtuiiK «Jii v'l-.TH of attbL mi£ ji-iiuvtini«.'i. *ixwijc «fcnj to be inseparable from volcanic eruptinns,
aat. tf >« :u(pi(iiit ii, 7J"«(7Miruinij nf libc ius«r atj TO>^or.i. Of ihis we have an example in the erupiioo
rirr.tiu Ji. iTT* vli;!i -iw «uiiiiTi;* c-.ijTO>i A* iiT i* MJ'ju How great a space was covered by the
«utu! njucuu! inm I.511U. to iiit taitpfiucn; 'oif Hf^i^.a^^ii* m-CQ aJr&aiiv noticed. Tiicrc is likewise no emp-
tuui (liXiimuvauf vvtuukat auu^u^oim^^uaiKi^ ^ ismiikr»b(nrers of sand and ashes.
t*t ttiP t'vn « f -• » r f c 1
^
'f'hi'i •tlhff. fin fifi'i hr^'fi f^(f^M/lv «>'ii<l. o^nipi^-j ffnf p iff of ffii^ i ;! iDfl 'Vlir li rfiii'- »Vif*
rtisf. '»M»I fli'' fi'iftli fnnf, r vf( it'lfn^ 'irt fli' oiif «i|((r f>> (|ir 'i' », intfMVhi' h it ^trff* h' •. iMfl
hM Hm' Mfh/ r ♦Mflir iiittirfiif /if the ffKiiinfnfn ff o'vrq i» ; 'iriijriii pn'rly u,\\,i imnvVnt*"
( |( f f l<ifi<i mI it \t\ *}\c v'llMfi'', '»fi<l p If fly "» '^i*" pi' ' ' 1 '>f ■' "1 i I' • -fi) ■. I )V I llir'»"n 'iMf '»'/
fltr 'iMiii*'. \\ lie li lifnifr, th h;i'i lir/n iU/l, nfifirirly frnlil' , \ .i\ i>t'' »1lv' .ilei'lll'li'ij^ ti^
lliMf fh, C'lsilv 'I' ' "fMpM:< Hi<l fi</ firrt' piilvf-ri Xfl in flii; .'Mt'ly lo it»« r fn f\t\^ i;»<^h\u\r
\<i tu*fti' ft'tndl Mnfi »'i fiMfl III If ff,i|frfirrifn nf rhis ■ir-'ifi iffnt^ |;v'», '.f "iri'nn it/r^ Thi';
w'lfifl li l'iiiM/1 priri' i|> illy m< ir fli'' cilr uifi, ir-hr r»^ Imtli it iii»l iii» »'.rM''M'm I'lv «4 iV'ttTi
•)•
Ivlilcli M i'l lotifuH hll III fli' jfrrnfi '.t fiiiiiitirif ^ , l»iif .»<j. iVum if! Iivirnf^'!, it im f-nstly
fti'tvMihlf, }t Is 'fiftK/l liy rl(/' \viri<l to rho v illi' » ;iiif| lnWfY j^fHiivl'! 'ini''- ". 'hr ^^ii.
'Mill, luMvrvrr, Is 'ifilv' 'h'- flii'i iipi"' r rMfitiii^ /if th'inr ptrtn 'if 's'r .Dilfili vhi' h i*
Mivffs, im iin/1/f if lie "i ili/ rirrn fc • inn nf ihi' r.luifl , f nw in lli'- s'lll'l li'.'m, "Vliirfi tf'*
♦ isllil/' /in H/ X ' till •!»/ / p /|. 'i/ < nf'i, fhif Iriv li./n ■!tril>p''/l ''I* •!>' -"'H'! • i»lv r l»y fb* »/ 'iofli
fiC ill/' fdlfi tvufi f, 'if tfi It 'if fhf' (Vinyls.
On til/' M'irn/ /hy I rn !/!/• tli< /•if/tut 'if ,i fffrit p'lft '>f ihr I. •»«;/' /.f inr cl-in/l, •M/'h c?
nli/iiif nJii/" rtiilf s in / if/ nrnf/f/ ri/r, mcl foiin/l thr vtmr ui»ili'1 i /,iv,trii'fiir' , i ;»nill trirt
fit tilffi fin ff|/- n/itth «4i/|r /Mf/^rpt/cl, whif h dr s' 'ii/h t'lllv s'' i
III fills i-K'nfsi/iTi f /nf/ fully /^fiimiiiffl fhf /^'^mf*/' -mrl rlif'/'fion of thf I'lvim, ,in<l iVis
^/»llvin/ t/l flrit th/ y ill h 1/1 flf.^^'f '1 fi-om rlif '^t»w |,r',t ;noiniit 'if ilv nuinntiin, 'in/l'T /Ijf
|( f/ nf !in^|/s /if III/ limiti/in, pivmiiiy; run' nv/^i* .iii'i'lirr*, iml thus T'lfintn^^ i !M'/''ssi'<fi nf
f'fiisfs/ir stmtfi, likr, In ViiYi/ m/-;isiir<', rh»^ rritmnyjn of whi/h ,m f>nif)n /'ifi^ist^. \u v»-
♦/■r;il pl(i//s vvIk'T/' fhi" Imv.i h!i«t rriti'r/*rl th/^ s/m, tli/^sr r/'nsts itiny Iv H''/"fi lyiti/^r>fir ovrr
tlif /ifli/r, s/»m<' /if rhrm lir/il/cn /if -t/p-ifiur] hy dir aIki'It -if ihr v.iv' «;.
'IIm sf' (;i/fs stf/iin(ly iii/ln/f /I nti- t/mnsp/ 1 i ilvit ili/- ' r iiir* of "iTini^oH hfiM inz-ifntly
li<»f'n sifM(»t/<l <>n fhr siimmif f»f thr m^iimiiin, in/l th»t thr- jiivm vlil/ih li;<fl prifi/ipnlly
<'<inffllMil*<J f/» flir pr/i'lti/ fif»n cif thr isl uvl hurl fl/iwrH I'lv^n Ovit cr-iWr
Ofi fli< ''*kI< s /»f r'.tnit ,\U<) VrmivinH mrinntninM of .m mn-n/ir onfrr irls'", vhi/'li I'tkr
Ifv'istf (twc thf'ir />fi>ijin f/i fifp . Stf/imb/iii, on tlv confriry, is fiitirrly ,i ^Ifi^lr inonnfiiin,
♦■xrfpf thiit itst/ip iH<1ivi<KM inf/-» two summits. Hfiirr it .ipp^'iirs fhnt f|i#>r'' h»ivf hf^n
UifiH' <4 t}\<ist' f f iipti<»nH HI ifH hkIph, which j^oni'r'.itp Irsnrr m/xintHins nr lilIU, of i <:nT\'tf.7il
fofffi.
lltit thhctAtcr, whirh I f*onjfrtuf/>, niul ^hnll lv'r«'iifrpr pr')v«* iriujilly fn h>»vr /'xiv***!,
hrtH Imig siucf j/f'wrn phcf ro rhiit \vhi«-h ,»t pr/'sriu hums. ,\m/)n/( thr vjifious in/]iii-
rifs whirh t tnA<\f f>f tht inhiiKitnntH of Str'>ni(>oli, f int»>iTa<^;;tpr1 t|i^»Ti .vith r<»spr/'t to
the prccjiic HiUmt\o\i vi IV>r'mcr timrs, ;is (mi* .m tlvy hfid hrar/l ar r/)Ml/| n-rn/'ruhrr, fif
tttat burning jjulf whirhthmw-* owt fire and rcd-h/>r ston#-s ; .md ih^y ill ijs^/^-rl In ;«-
Muring mr that fhf y had ncv<*r known it in :iny '^thrr plar.« but that in v^'hich it notr i«,
that is to say, about haU' way np th«* mountain.
I lodged with a prifst who w;m now appr/vtr,hin{j the d/clinr" of lifr, who not ^n\y
confirmed this accf>unt, but adduced the authority ot his liitfipr, who h,iddi«'d ;»t thcogif
of eighty, and who had told him that h« I»ad heard, fr/>m p<i;rsons nUUr han himself, that
in their time the situation of the btiming fumjt/'e wan the iainc as ci pr/sent.
AI)Out a mile from the mouth of the volcano liv/.vs a p«a.sant, who trom his rottagc can
dlntinctly see every burning eruption ; and though lie l'rr;qucntly feels no little aiarm, vvhcn
the fragments of lava arc thrown quite to his doors, and tlie Hru reac^ies ins little vineyard,
yet, from long habit, and love for the place of his birth, he still ci.itinues to reside there.
When I asked thia man what was the situation of the burning cavern in former timtrs,
he returned me the same answer I had received before ; alleging, 1 conlirmauon jf itn
tmth, the testimony oi' hia ancestoni who liad resided on the iiame spot. And as to the
o 2
\
1
.— <^
100
srALLANZAin'l TRAVItS
showers of ejected mntter, all of whom I enquired unanimously nssured mc that they had
always Hccn them such us they at present apiurur, except that they might be sometime!)
btronger and sometimes weaker.
All these testimonies appear sufficiently to prove that the volcano of Stromboli han
burned for more than a century where it now burns, without any sensible change huv-
ing taken place in its situation.
I shall here niake a few reiAarks on the account which Sir William Hamilton has given
us of Stromboli, agreeable to my promise in the introduction to this volume.
He tells us, that on his return from Messina to Naples he met with a calm while among
the Lipari islands, which lasted three days. •* Hence," says he, *• I had an opportunity
clearly to ascertain that all these islands have Ik'Cu formed by eruptions. That which is
called Volcano, is in the s;»mc state in which Solfataru now is. Stromboli is a volcano
which has preserved its vigour entire, and consecjuently a form more pyramidal than the
rest of the islands. We frequently saw bursting stones thrown from its crater, and lava
issuing frtmi the sides of the mountain, flow down into the sea."
This description is accompanied by a plate, which is the thirty. seventh plate of the
Cami)i Phlegriei, and represents the mountains of Stromboli. In it the crater is repre-
sented at the summit, throwing out flames and ignited stones ; and on the sides are seen
streams of licjuid lava desccndmg into the sea. That the observations of this respecta-
ble naturalist on volcanos merit the most attentive consideration, the work I have cited
furnishes numerous and incontestable proofs: that impartiality, however, which ought
to be inseparable from philosophy, compels me to declare that what he has said of this
mountain is not exactly consonant to fiict. From the time of his observations to that of
mine, only twenty years have elapsed. If, therefore, the crater of Stromboli had then
been atthesummit of the mountain, and had it thrown out thence its showers of fiery
matter, the inhabitants of the island would surely have remembered the fact when I was
there : but when I told them that, twenty years before, the burning gulf of their moun-
tain was not situated half way up its side, but at the top, they all positively asserted that
this must be a mistake.
The same they affirmed of the assertion that lava had issued from the sides of the
mountain, and flowed down into the sea ; when, to hear their answer, I told them that
this had been observed at the same time. Indeed, it seems very extraordinary that I
should never have met with any traces of these currents of lava, though I so carefully
examined the island.
I am of opinion that Sir William fell into these errors from not having landed at
Stromboli, but only viewed it at sea at a distance, where he might easily be deceived by
some illusion of sight. In fact, had he landed, it is not to be doubted but he would
have mentioned it. That he made his observations at some distance from the island is
sufficiently indicated by these words : *' Stromboli is a volcano which has preserved a
form more pyramidal than the rest of the islands." When Stromboli is seen at a dis-
tance it certainly appears of this pyramidal, or more pro|jerly conical form, much more
than when seen near ; for then it appears bifurcated, nearly similar to Monte Rosso, on
one of the sides of Mount Etna.
The distance has likewise rendered him inaccurate relative to the island of Volcano.
Had he landed there and examined the place, he would not have compared it to Solfa-
tara. We shall sec in chap. XIV, of this work, the difference of the states of the two
volcanos. ''^'*''
The figure, more or less conical, of the Eolian isles, as seen from the sea, while Sir
William sailed among them, the smoke which he saw rise from some, and the fiery erup-
IN TNB TWO tlCILIKS.
101
on
lions of othcTN, •iii)(^"tlc(t to liiin, I inin^iiu*, the iik-a thaw " ihc) h.u o ull Ikcm ioritKit It)
eruptioiiH," as he huH not iuUhiccd a sill^lc local fact in »iip|>ort (if that opinion.
On thi- 2d of Octoix r 1 made the ohscrvationH I have already rt lated, at the foot and
the tower part of the sides of Strond)oli. The i'ollowin^ ni^ht the volcano exhibited
Chenoniena sinularto those of the precedinjf, and the next day (the :]d) jiroved I'avonra-
le to my wishes to approiieh nearer to the burnin^^ crater. It now smoked hot little, and
only u lew explosions, and those scarcely audible, were heard. 'I'he sky was Tree from
clouds, and the sea calm.
The crater nuiy be approached by t^vo several ways ; either by takin^f a boat, and ob-
serving; it from the sOu ; or by laiul, passing; die top of the mountain, and procecdin(|^ as
nearns possible to the ed^^esol" the crater. I resolved to observe it, first from the water,
taking advantage of the calm which then prevailed, us I well knew how frcijuently tliut
sea is violently agitated by teni|K>Htuous wmds.
After having coasted the island the distance of three miles and a half towards the
north, 1 arrived opposite the place where the showers of ignited matter fall into the sea.
The side of the mountain is here a steep declivity, almost perpendicular, about half a
mile broad ut the bottom, and a full mile long, terminating above in a point, and form-
ing an isoscecles triangle, the Ixise of which is washed by the sea. I'he apex of the trian-
gle is at the brink of the crater. Before 1 reuclK'd the steep declivity, I observed a great
cloud of dust extending along it, of which I could not assign the origin ; but on a nearer
approach I discovered the secret. It was evidently produced by pieces of lavu, of va-
rious sizes, which rolled down, and in their descent raised the fine sand with which this
declivity ^s covered.
While I was intently observing this object, the mountain suddenly made an explosion.
A quantity of pieces of lava, of a dark-red colour, enveloped in sinf)ke, were ejected
from the top of the precipice, and thrown high into the air. A part of them fell again
upon the declivity, and rolled headlong down, the smaller preceded by the greater,
which after a few long bounds dashed into the sea, and on entering the waves, gave that
sharp hissing sound which, in u lesser degree, is produced by a bar of red-hot iron which
a smith plunges in the water. The lesser fragments of lava followed, but from their
lightness and the hindrance of the sand, rolled slowly down the declivity, which was
then obscured by a small cloud of dust ; and striking against each other produced nearly
the same sound as is occasioned by large hailstones falling on the roofs of houses. In a
few moments after another explosion followed ; but this was a small one, without any
sensible noise, and the few pieces of lava that were thrown up rosi* to but a small height,
and fell back into the crater. Two minutes after a third eruption took place, with a
much louder explosion than the first, and a far more copious ejection of lava. The
eruptions which I afterwards observed, and which were innumerable in the space of
three hours that I continued there, exhibited tlie same appearances.
These observations caused me to doubt of the truth of an opinion to which I had in-
clined before my arrival in the island. I mean the periodical intermissions which travel-
lers ascril)e to the eruptions of Stromboli, and which I supposed I had observed in the
night in my voyage Irom Naples to Sicily. When from the bottom of this precipice I
had the volcano and its fiery hail before my eyes, I do not indeed mean to affirm that it
continually raged and thundered equally ; but the intermissions between its ejections
were so short that they rarely exceeded three minutes, though by the accounts of these
travellers they are considerably longer. Yet was I willing still to suspend my judgment,
until 1 should have had a nearer view of the crater on the mountain itself. , , . . , ,
I
lOJ
IPALLANZANrt TRAVEL!
P\
Tlic fuilowiui; ni^ltt I returned to the Mime place, pcrsundcd that I sihouM sec new
ohicctM to excite- iii) udn)iruti<)ii ; uiid in fact, tlic scliic I Ik licUl appcand to nic uk dc>
li|<;ntrul and UHtonihliin^, uh it was noble and niajiMic. The volcano rii^d with more
violent i-ruptionH, and nipidl) hurled to a ^reat In i^^ht thousands olrid-hot Htoix-ii, lorm-
injf diMT^iii^ rays in the uir. Thonc uhith fell upon the preci|)i(e, and rolled down it,
produced a liail of htreamin^ Tire, which illuniinatid and enihelliJ.jd the »tccp descent,
anddifl'used itseli'around through u considerahle space.
But, iiidi pendent of these ip;nited stones, I remarked a vivid light in the air, which
hovered (.vtr the volcano, and was not diminished when that was at rest. It was not
properlj Uanie, hut n al light rcverhcrated by the atmosohcrc, impregnated by extrune-
ouh partiiles, and especially by the ascending smoke. Besides varying in its intensity,
icappcared constantl) in motion, ascended, descended, dilated, and contracted, but con-
stantly continued i>.\ed to one place, that is, over the mouth of the volcano, and clearly
shewed dut it was caused by the conflagration within the crater.
The dci(jnations in the greater eruptions resentbled the distant roar of thunder ; in the
more moilerate the explosion of a mine; and in the least they were scarcely audible.
Every detonation \\as some seconds later Uiaii Uic ejection. Tl.is likewise was ob-
servable b} day.
I remained that night two hours on the water at this place, and the eruptions were so
tVec|ucnt, and with such short intermissions, that Uiey might be said to be continual.
During both these visits thick showers of simdand fine scoria; lell into the sea, and
falling on my hat, which was of oil-cloth, made a noise like a small hail.
The five sailors who had the care of the boat in which I was, and some other natives
of Stromboli who were widi me, and whose occupation frequently brought them to tliat
oart of the seu, told nie that the volcano might now be considered as very quiet ; assur-
ing me that in its greater fits of fury red-hot stones were faiiuently throw n to the dis-
tance of a mile from the shore, and that consci|uently at such times it was impossible to
remain w ith a bout so near the mountain us we then were. Their assertion appeared to
me sufficiently proved by a comparison of the size of the fragments thrown out in the
explosions I now witnessed, with '.hat of those which hud been ejected in several former
eruptions. The first (many of which had been stop|K'd ut the Ijottom of the precipice by
other pieces of lava, and were scoriaceous lavus, approaching to a globose Ibrm) were
not more than three feet in diameter ; but niuny of the fragments tlirown out ut other
times, of similar quality to them, and which lay in lurge heups on the shore, were some
four some five feet in diameter, and others even still larger.
Travellers have generally asserted thut the volcano of Stromboli has for a long time
discharged its fury into the sea, without causing either ulurm or injury to the inhabitants
of the island. The eruptions, however, fall equally on every side around the volcano;
though at this place they only fall into the sea, and in that sense their assertion is well
founded.
But the people of Stromboli, and indeed almost all the inhabitants of the Eoliaii isl-
unds, entcrtiiin an oi}inion, equally amusing und paradoxical, by which they explain why
that part of the sea which is contiguous to the precipice is never filled up notwithstand-
ing the immense quantities of stones which have been contually falling into it from time
immemorial ; where, instead of a peninsula having been lormcd by those stones, us
might naturally have been expected, the sea is generally said to have no bottom. To ex-
plain this appaant paradox, these good folks affirm, with the most entire conviction that
what they say is true, that the stones ol th«* vf>lca?v> which fall into the sea arc attracted
uguin by the mountain through secret passiuges ; so tliut there is u constant circulation
from the volcano to the sea, and the sea to the volcano.
IM TUB TWO IIClLIKf.
101
I c!i<l not nttrmpt to contro\crt tlvir favijtiriti* li\ pothiMi**, whifli would Imvr Imih
%n no :i(lvtinl.i^i , aiul to no avuil ; but I cinscd ihit p.irt of itx Sf i to \)v sooitdt il, inid
found it n liuiulivd ami turnty^four fttt deep, \.l)ith, tlioiif^h it h not u ^r^at dcotli
in the Mcdittrraiuan, is tt rtainly, in lliis pluc, v>nu\vlu(t hnrpri>inf^; an it was ratlur
to Ik- cxiM-rtrM that the- continual diM-luir^c of Moiuh into it shoiiUI li i\ f prcKluctd a little
hill, which would at last have « nu'rf.^t'd above the wavtH.
Thii'.king this anobjtrt (Uvrvir»j^ honu* iiumiry, I d< tcrniincd to nuikc n»y obncrvn-
tionsonthc sp«)t, and 1 IhttM niywH' I haAc diwovcrcd tin: true ixplanation of the diffi-
culty. 'I'hc stones whieh have- lornuTly Iktu thrown into the sea bv Stroniboli,
and thoHC which that volcano hiiII coiitinucs to eject, are of the name kincl ; that h, M
I have already naid, scoriaceoiiH lavn. These, Iroin their Ininf^ p<»rous and little co-
hrrin)^ in their internal Mriieture, eanily crumble, and are converted into sand, an h
Rcen on the east and northeast parts ol the islands ; and this heparation of parts is pro-
duccdby the siinplc action oFthc clentents of uir and water, and the rolling; of the pieces
over each other in their descent. A similar tritumtion is eftected at the place where
the lavas fall into the sea. The steep descent I have so fre(|nently mentioned is covered
with this pulverised lava quite to the sea-shore. A part, therefore, of the scoriae is
already reduced to powder before it touches the water ; and the remainder, which falls
into the sea in whole pieces, must soon muler^^o the same trituration, from the action of
the waves which iKat so violently in various directions.
I must here repeat that the sea which surroimds the islands of I/ipari, and especially
that part of it which washes Stroniboli, is subject to very frequent and very violent
storms. The two times that 1 observed the volcano from the sea, near the precipice,
thouKh it was what the sailors called a perfect calm, our boat w.is so tossed that it was
necessary to make use of the oars to prevent its being carried from the place. This
agitation of the water, likewise, extend:> here to a considerable depth, as is sufitciently
proved by several observations. The inhabitants of Stromboli, besides nets, make use
of wheels, or a kind of w ieker traps, to catch fish. Into these they put stones, and sink
them to the bottom, leaving a sort of floating buoy to point out where they lie ; but
to prevent their being carried away by the waves, in a storm, it is necessary that they
should be sunk to the (U |)tli of a hundred and forty feet ; otherwise they would be
dashed against the rocks under the water, and lost. As the depth, therefore, of that
part of the sea into which the scoriae fall is less than this, that is, only a hundred and
twenty-four leet, they must, by the shocks of the tempestuous waves, no doubt, be soon
broken, reduced to sand, and carried away by the violence of the current. It is not,
thcrcfoa, so extraordinary, as it may at first view appear, that this part of the sea should
be scarcely ever filled by the scc-iareous lava which is continually falling into it.
I have said, scarcely ever, ly.causc I was told, by some of the people of Stromboli,
that about forty-four years ago the volcano threw outsuch an immense (juantity of scoria;,
that it caused a dry place, to use their expression, in the sea. A kind of hill rose above
the waters, which remained from March to the follow ing July, when it gradually dimi-
nished, by the action of the waves, and at last disappeared. The hill was formed pre-
cisely in that place where, according to the popular report, the sea has no bottom.
This fa-'t not only is agreeable to the hypothesis 1 have offered, but is a strong confir-
mation of this truth.
The observations I had been able to make on the volcano from the sea appeared to me
interesting and instructive ; but I flattered myself, that more of its secrets would be re-
vealed to me, if I made vi nearer visit to it, over the mountain itself. The way thither
lay on the east side of the island, it being impossible to approach it from the sea, both
I'!
n
104
SPALLANZANl's TRAVELS
i
i
it'
',v!
from the incessant showers of heated stones, nnd the insuperable precipices on both sides
of the steep and almost perpendicular declivity. I began this journey on the 4th of
October, and nas much encouraged by the state of the volcano, to hope I should suc-
ceed accordiiig to my wishes, as scarcely a shade of smoke covered the highest points
of the island. To arrive there it was necessary to make a journey of a mile and a half,
reckoning from the sca-shnre. The first mile is not disagreeable, but the remainder of
the way, though not dangerous, is very difficult; both from the extreme steepness of the
ascent, from the impediment of die sand, in which the leg sinks almost up to the knee at
every step, and from the loose and moveable scoriae, which render the summit of the
moiuitain extremely rugged and slippery.
Having reached this summit, I found myself on one of the two points which render
Stromboli bifurcated, though, when viewed at a distance it appears conical. This sum-
mit is situated to the north-east ; the other, which is somewhat higher, inclines to the
south-west. As nearly as I could estimate it, the altitude of the latter above the sea
was about a mile.
To pass from one siunmit to the other, we go over an extensive plain, which appeared
to me to deserve the most attentive examination. We first observe white fumes, which
arise from five apertures, not very distant from each other. These fumes have a strong
sulphureous odour, and, gliding along the ground, are insufferable from their extreme
heat. The five apertures appear sprinkled over with small crystals of sulphur, and mu-
riate of ammoniac (sal ammoniac.) The ground here is a mixture of sand and scoriae ;
and the sand, as well below as on the surface, is moist, which may arise from two causes,
either from the subterraneous waters being raised in vapour by the volcanic fire, as wa-
ter constantly accompanies burning volcanos ; or from the union of the acid of sulphur
with the humidity of the atmosphere.
The ground in the vicinity of these fumes is very hot ; and wherever a hole is made
with a stick, a new stream of smoke arises, which is not fugitive but durable. If you
stamp with the foot, a feeble kind of echoing sound is heard, which I do not imagine
to be occasioned by any subjacent gulf or abyss, but only from the very loose contex-
ture of the ground, which is only composed of sand and very porous scoriae ; in the
same manner as in several parts of the Apennines, where the ground is light and loose,
I have heard the same kind of sound on stamping with the foot. I am, therefore, of
opinion, that this hot fuming ground has a communication with the volcano, by narrow
winding cavities which afford a passage to the vapours.
Proceeding to the west, over the plain which extends between the two summits, an-
other object arrests still more the attention of the observer. The summits themselves
have no crater, nor any vestiges of one ; but these vestiges are sufficiently evident on
die sides of the plain ; which here sinks into a cavity, which may be about three hun-
dred feet in length, from east to west, above two hundred in breadth, and one hundred
and sixty in depth. The bottom is covered with sand and scoriae, not of a very ancient
date, but the produce of the ejections of the present volcano. The internal sides of the
cavity, however, are not of these materials ; they are formed of stratas of lava which
bear the most evident marks of the highest antiquity. I am, therefore, of opinion that
this was the first and largest volcano of Stromboli, which formed the contexture of
the island by its lavas, and which, in a great degree, had been filled up and destroyed
by the earthy depositions of the rain-waters, the matter ejected into it by the present
volcano, and, perhaps, by the falling in of its own sides. This opinion is con*
firmed by the direction of the lavas, all of which appear to have descended from tiic
centre of the summit ; and this direction, when I examined the lower parts of the
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
10'.
1 both sides
the 4th of
thould sue-
hest points
and a half,
rmainder of
>ncss of the
thu knee at
imit of the
hich render
This sum-
lines to the
ove the sea
ch appeared
inies, which
ive a strong
eir extreme
ir, and mu-
ind scoriae ;
two causes,
fire, aswa-
i of sulphur
kolc is made
le. If you
not imagine
>ose contex-
iriae ; in the
\t and loose,
hcrefore, of
by narrow
iimmits, an-
5 themselves
evident on
t three hun-
jnc hundred
very ancient
sides of the
' lava which
opinion that
jntexture of
id destroyed
the present
ion is con-
ed from tl»c
parts of the
island, induced me to conjecture that the principal volcano had formerly existed on the
summit.
These remains of an ancient crater lie between two points of the mountain whicli
were probably formed when the lava gushed forth, in the same manner as the volcano
of Monte Rosso formed two distinct hills. The bottom of this higher and more ancient
crater of Stromboli, in two places, emits fumes, which do not differ in their quality from
those that have been mentioned above.
From these two summits the ejections of the present crater are distinctly observable,
as it is not distant more than half a mile to the north ; and wc there evidently percei'c
that it lies about half way up the mountain, the edges obscurely projecting, and form-
ing a cliff. Here I was better able than on the sea to estimate, by the eye, the height to
which the ejected matter ascends ; and can affirm that, in the more violent eruptions, it
rises to the height of half a mile, or even higher, as many of the ignited stones were
thrown above the highest summit of the mountain. They did not, however, reach me,
but fell, partly on the precipice which descends to the sea, and partly into and around
the crater. The ejections, indeed, which I call the most violent, were certainly very
moderate, compared with those which the two natives of Stromboli who served me as
guides, assured me they had witnessed, at other times, from that summit, when, as they
said, we should not have been safe at the distance and height at which we were ; and
the numerous scoriae around us, the produce of former eruptions, fully confirmed the
truth of what they asserted. They likewise deserved attention when they affirmed that,
at those times, the stones were thrown to more than a mile in height.
Fron? the summit of Stromboli I descended about a quarter of a mile down the moun-
tain towards the volcano, and took my station on an eminence where I had a much more
distinct view of the crater, and every eruption ; and was more than ever convinced that
the intermissions which have been so frequently and positively ascribed to it do not exist.
The explosions succeeded each other with such rapidity, that there was rarely the inte al
of three or four minutes between any two. They, however, differed greatly in their
strength, which has probably occasioned the mistake of travellers relative to the inter-
missions of Strombol? , The highest ejections, as I have already said, did not rise less
than half a mile in height ; while the lowest did not reach the height of fifty feet, and
the matter feU back into the crater. Between the greatest and the least there were ejec-
tions without number ; and the intensity of the sound corresponded to the quality of the
ejection. At a considerable distance from the volcano the moderate and snialler erup-
tions, with their accompanying detonations, were not perceptible, but the greater only ;
which not being so frequent, may easily induce us to form the false opinion that this
burning mountain has considerable intervals of repose. But when we approach nearer,
we distinctly perceive the difference of the ejections, and the error of such a supposition.
Nor can the fact I observed be considered as accidental, since the two guides I took
with me, who are accustomed to conduct strangers to this place, as well as other natives
of Stromboli, who frequently pass that way to cut wood, all agreed that the erup-
tions of this volcano are continual though they are sometimes stronger and sometimes
weaker.
At a distance, there was a very perceptible interval between the appearance of the
eruption and the detonation ; but here, the difference of time between them was scarcely
any. The fragments of lava, as they flew, produced a hissing sound ; and many of them
acquired in the air a globose figure, an evident proof of their fluidity ; but before they
came to the ground they were hardened, retaining the same figure, while they bounded
down the cliffs and precipice. From the litde eminence un which I stood I could in p^t
VOL. V. p
106
^PALLANTZANI S TRAVELS
;i:
iir
ii\.
k
p.
I
I
I
I
4
i
I
i
■ si'
discover the internal sides of the crater, though I could not see far into it ; but ap|)ear.
anccs seemed to indicate that it could not be very deep ; for, attentively observing the
fragments of lava that fell again immediately into the crater, I remarked that almost as
soon as they had entered it I heard the sound produced by their collision against the
substance on which they fell. This sound resembled that which would be caused should
water, or rather some denser fluid, be struck with a number of staves or poles. But of
ihis phenomenon, and others more deserving notice, I shall treat presently more at
length, when I come to speak of other secrets of the volcano which were disclosed by a
nearer approach.
Here it is proper to notice the fumes which exhale from this mountain, as they havt
an immediate relation to the volcano. Though when I observed them from the sea
they anpcared to me of little importance, when I saw them from the summit and body
of the mountain they exhibited a thick cloud, several miles in length, exhaling a strong
smell of sulphur, which, however, was not incommodious to me, as they were raised se-
veral poles above the surface of the ground. This cloud entirely obscured the sun, was
black in the middle, but whitish at the edges, and more or less clear according to the
dift'crcnt inclinations, refrangeneics, and reflections of the light. It appeared to me
that this immense mass of smoke extended more than a mile in height. Though it con-
tinually issued in a considerable quantity, its volume did not increase, since as much was
dissipated in the upper regions of the air, as rose from the earth. It derived its origin
from a threefold source. First as often as the crater threw up stones, a cloud of gray
smoke immediately arose, which was thick in proportion as the ejection was violent and
copious. Secondly, to the west of the crater, and at a little distance from it, are some
obscure apertures, through which arise, like white clouds, not less than a hundred and
fifty streams of smoke, which, though tliey arc distinct at first, mingle as they rise, and
form one cloud.
Lastly, to the cast of the crater, there is a large ar d deep cavern from which ascends
a column of dark and very thick smoke, about twelve feet in diameter, which at that
time, from the stillness of the air, arose perpendicularly, moving in large circles
through a considerable space, and afterwards insensibly rarefying as it removed to a dis-
tance. This cavern while I was there threw out no stones, nor had it ever been known
to do so, as my guides assured me, th'^ugh it had always emitted a prodigious quantity
of smoke. The causes, therefore, of \ ais smoky cloud were these three, of which the
first and third arc continual, and the second acts as often as tne crater ejects its burning
matter : nor can there be any doubt that they arc all three connected with the volcanic
gulf which makes its greatest discharge from the mouth of the crater, and a much small*
cr from each of the sides.
Not satisfied with the observations I had already made, my curiosity impelled me to
attempt lurther discoveries. From the pointed rock on which I stood, I could only see
the edges of the inside of the crater. I considered, therefore, whether it might not be
possible to obtain a sight of the lower parts likewise ; and, looking round me, I per-
tx-ived a small cavern, hollowed in the rock, very near the gulf of the volcano, into
which the rock above prevented the entrance of any burning stones, should they be
thrown so far. It was likewise so elevated, that from it the crater was open to my view.
I therefore hastened to take my station in this cavity, taking advantage of one of the
very short intervals between the eruptions. To my great satisfaction, my expectations
were completely fulfilled ; I could here look down into the very bowels of the volcano,
and Truth and Nature, stood, as it were, unveiled before me. The following 19 the
description of the objects which presented themselves to my wondering eyes.
IV HIE iWO lilCILIfcJi.
lOv
The edges of the crater, which is of a circukir forni, and not inorc! tllim three tuiii-
dredand forty feet in eircumferenco, arecomposedof a confused mixture of lavas, sco-
riae, and sjmd. The internal sides contract as they descend, and assume the shape of a
truncated inverted cone. These sides, from the cast to the south, have only a geutk
declivity, but in the other parts, they arc very steep. In many places, they appeared in
crusted over with yellow substances, which I imagine to be the muriate of anuuouiac
(sal ammoniac) or sulphur.
The crater, to a certain height, is filled with a liquid red-hot matter, resembling melt
cd brass, and which is the fluid lava. This lava appeared to be agitated by tu o clistimi
motions; the one intt.'stine, whirling, and tumultuous ; and the other, that '7 which it
is impelled upwards. This motion in particular merited to be examined u ith attention.
The liquid matter is raised, sometimes with more and sometimes with less rapidity with-
in the crater, and when it has reached the distance of twenty-five or thirty feet, from the
upper edge, a sound is heard not unlike a very short clap of thunder ; while at the same
momenta portion of the lava, sejiiirated into a thousand pieces, is thrown up, with inde-
scribable swiftness, accompanied with a copious eruption of smoke, ashes, and sand. A
few moments before the report, the superfices of the lava is inflated, and covered witli
large bubbles ; some oi 'which are several feet in diameter, which bubbles presently
burst, and, at the same instant, the detonation and fiery shower take place. After the
explosion, the lava within the crater sinks, but soon again rises as before, and new tu-
mours appear, which again burst and produce new explosions. When the lava sinks,
it produces little or no sound ; but when it rises, and especially when it begins to be
inflated with bubbles, it is accompanied with a sound, similar, in proportion to the dif-
ference of magnitude, to that of a liquor boiling vehemently in a caldron.
1 remained in this cavity, wliich so conveniently sheltered me from danger, an hour and
a quarter ; during which time, besides the observations I have already stated, I was
enabled to make the following :
Every ejection, however small, was not only accompanied by an explosion, but was
proportionate to it in its intensity. Hence, as the stones which are only thrown to the
height of ten or twenty yards above the crater, are not visible to the eye at a distance,
so neither is the detonation, by which such ejections arc accompanied, sensible to
the ear.
In the smaller and moderate ejections, the stones fell back into the crater, and at their
collision with the fluid lava produced, as I have already said, a sound similar to that of
water struck by a number of staves ; but in the greater ejections, a considerable quan-
tity of them jdways fell without the mouth ; though that lying low, and surrounded
with heights, the greater part of tliem rolled again into it. Here, however, we must ex-
cept that side of the crater which lies immediately over the precipice before described,
since there every stone which fell without the crater bounded down the declivity, and
descended to the sea. When I viewed this precipice from the water, it appeared to me
to terminate in a point ; but here I distinctly perceived, that, where it reached the vol-
cano, it was more than sixty feet in breadth.
The redness of the larger ignited stones (which were only pieces of scoriaceous lava)
was visible in the air, notwithstanding the light of the sun. Many of them clashed
against each other and were broken, which happened only when they were at a certain
height ; for, when they were nearer to the volcauv/, they frequently adhered, on touch-
ing each other, in consequence of the fluidity they retained. The lava of the crater,
'when it rose or fell, emitted but little smoke ; but a great quantity when it exploded.
i
108
S1>ALLAMZANI S TRAVELS
'Mi'
Tlie smoke issued from its fissurts, but almost immediately disappeared after the ex-
plosion. It might be compared to the smoke produced by the firing of gunpowder, and
which appears and disappears with the flash. This smoke appeared to me extraneous to
the lava ; at least, the fragments of the latter neither smoke as they fly in the air, nor
after they have reached the ground.
In consequence of the alternate rising and sinking of the lava, according as it is in-
flated or makes its discharge, the depth of the crater cannot be considered as constant.
When the lava is at its height, it may be about five and twenty or thirty feet deep, and
when it has subsided, about forty or fifty : the greatest rising of the lava may, therefore,
be estimated at about twenty feet.
If we attentively examine the edges of tlie crater, we can discover no signs that the
lava has ever overflowed the brink, much less that it has poured a torrent down the steep
bide of the mountain.
Though the ejections of the larger and heavier stones have short intermissions, those
of the lesser and lighter have scarcely any. Did not the eye perceive how these showers
of stones originate, it would be supposed that they fell from the sky : the noise of the
more violent eruptions resembling that of thunder, and the darkness occasioned by the
mounting cloud of smoke, present the image of a tempest. '•
Such were the phenomena of the volcano of Stromboli, which I observed with the
utmost convenience from the station I have described. Though it is '.^possible per-
fectly to pourtray such astonishing scenes by any drawing; the representation I liave
given in ihe plate of a part of Stromboli, may enable the reader to form a more adequate
idea of the principal objects.
In this plate AAA represents the vast column of smoke which, to the east of the
mountain, issues from a deep and spaciotis cavern, moving directly upward. BBB, the
numerous streams of smoke arising on the opposite side, above which I am myself repre-
sented, standing in the cavity of the rock which I have described, and looking down on
the showers of fiery matter ejected from the mouth of the crater, which has an opening
in front to afford a view of the internal parts of the crater and the fiery ejections. A part
of the latter are represented as falling at the top of the precipice which joins to the edge
of the volcant , down which they bound, and precipitate into the sea.
To the appearances already described, which I observed by day, I shall add others
that presented themselves by night; the cavity in the rock, which I have before men-
tioned, affording me the convenience to make my observations, likewise at that time, in
perfect security.
The surface of the burning lava within the crater never emitted any sensible flame,
not even when the bubbles upon it burst with an explosion ; but it shone with a glow-
ing vivid light, and resembled, in its appearance, melted glass in a furnace. From
>this surface the light diflfused itself around, and shot upwards, but with irregularity,
sometimes rising and sometimes falling, according, as it appeared to me, the lava itself
rose or sunk.
This light in the air became more vivid at every ejection of ignited stones ; and was
likewise increased in intensity by the quantity of sparks that accompanied each ejection
which were produced, in part, from the breaking of a number of the stones, in their
flashing against each other.
Such was the appearance of the volcano during the night ; but while I was observing
it in my secure recess, and contemplating the astonishing spectacle, an unexpected phe-
nomenon excited in me much more alarm than pleasure. The eruptions of the vol-
cano suddenly ceased, the boiling lAva sank lower than usual, without again rising, and
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
109
nor
Igst its vivid glowing redness; while at the same time the numerous streams of smoke,
to the west of the volcano, which before rose in silence, begim to issue with a loud hiss-
ing sound, and the apertures from which they exhaled to shine with a bright colour of
fire. I know nothing to which the sound produced by the issuing of tliese fumes can
be more properly compared than the blowing of large bellows into a furnace by whicii
metals arc melted; such as I have seen at Zalatna in Transylvania, and Schemnitz, and
Kremnitz, in Hungary ; except that these volcanic bellows roared a hundred times
louder, and almost deafened the ear.
The unexi)ected change within the crater, and my nearness to those fumes, which, as
they abounded with highly noxious sulphureous vapours, I feared might have mischiev-
ous effects, alarmed me so much, that I was on the point of abandoning a place which
appeared so dangerous, and seeking safety in flight ; had not the guides encouraged me
to stay, assuring me, from their repeated experience, that my fears were groundless.
" The burning matter which boils within the cavern," said one of them, *' always con-
tains a great quantity of air. This air has at present left the fire, and passed through
subterraneous passages to those apertures from which the smoke issues, and which we
call respiri (vent-holes) because there the air from the fire finds vent. But there is no-
thing to fear : the noise of these vent-holes will soon cease, and the crater boil and throw
out burning matter as before."
My companion gave me this account in such a manner as shewed he had himself no
idea of danger, and the event happened precisely as he foretold. In a very short time
the fumes and the volcano returned to their former state. My two guides afterwards
assured me that this appearance very rarely happened, and when it did was never of long
duration. From this discourse, and other conversation which I had with them after-
wards, I perceived that these two natives of Stromboli were better acquainted than any
other person with the secrets of their volcano, and the explanation they had given me of
the phenomenon! had witnessed, appeared to me extremely judicious.
I think it cannot be doubted that the bubbles which arise in the liquid lava, and burst
with an explosion, are generated by an elastic fluid there collected and confined, which
being dilated by the strong action of the fire, and incapable easily to disengage itself
from the tenacious lava, violently bursts it, and rushes above the crater, producing at
the same time a detonation. Hence originate the showers of ejected matter, which are
more or less copious, and rise to a greater or less height, in proportion to the greater or
less quantity and strength of this fluid ; which escaping, at every explosion, from the
upper parts of the lava, these sink, and again rise when they have received a fresh supply.
Supposing, then, the source of the fluid confined, from time to time, within the liquid
lava, to be inexhaustible, we shall easiiy perceive that the eruptions must be incessant.
If from the extreme tenacity of the lava, its want of sufficient fluidity, or any other un-
known cause, it should be unal^le to burst it, and open itself a passage within the crater,
it will make its way through the subterraneous channels to those apertures from which
the I'umes ascend, through which it will issue, with considerable noise, till the obstacle
it met with in the lava be removed. In such a case the lava will sink without again ris-
ing during this interval, and will lose its fiery redness from being no longer urged by the
energy of the elastic fluid ; while, from the contrary reason, the apertures from which
the fumes issue will acquire a glowing redness, because the fluid escapes through them
with violence.
Such were the ideas which floated in my mind, when, the night being considerably
advanced, I returned home, with my imagination strongly impressed with the objects I
had seen. These ideas I afterwards, in a cooler moment, recalled to a rigorous exa-
110
UPALLANZAKI'S TRAVELS
mination, inquirin}^, especially, what might be the nature of volcanic gases, not only of
such as are imprisoned in the liquid lavas of Stromboli, but of those which are insepa-
rable from other burning volcanos ; as likewise in what manner they act, to produce the
ejections ; objects which appear to me to be at once new and highly interesting. These
inquiries produced a number of observations and connected experiments, which it will
be more proper to present the reader in another part of the work than in this place; both
because they regard volcanos in general, and because to detail and explain them would
lead me too far from my present subject, which is to speak of the objects 1 observed in
this volcanic country. As I have, therefore, given some account of the nature and con-
formation of Stromboli, and the most remarkable phenomena of its volcano, I shall pro-
ceed to describe, in the following chapter, the diiTcrent substances of which this island is
composed.
CHAPTER XI.
STROMBOLI, CONTINUED.
I
f
m
in
The component substiiuces of this island are scoriae, lavas, tufas, pumices, and specular iron....
Three kinds of scoria;.... The first kind has some degree of vitrification....Stromboli produces
no true vitrifications or enamcls....The name of pumice not suitable to this kind of scoriu:....Its
ejection, and the figure which it sometimes takes in the air....Sccond kind of scori.-e, for which
Stromboli is remarkable....Its decomposition where the acid sulphureous vapours prevail....The
substances thrown out of Stromboli more acted on by the fire, than those ejected by other vol-
canos..>.The activity of the fires of Stromboli has long remained the same.... False opinion of
some, that volcanic glasses derive their origin from re-melted lavas....Third kind of scoriae....
All these three kinds of scoriae originally porphyry with a horn-stone base....£numeration of the
difi'erent lavas of Stromboli....Its tufas and pumiccs....Specu1ar iron....Dangerous situation in
which the latter is found.... Its crystallization, beauty, and variety.. ..Flakes of sulphate of lime
(selenite or gypsum) incrust some of these crystallizations, which consist of very thin leaves of
iron fastened on each other.... Hardness, and, at the same time, fragility of this iron.... Changes
produced in it, when exposed to the fire of the furnace, and that excited by oxygenous gas (de-
phlogisticited air)... Decomposed lava the matrix of this specular iron.. ..Cause of this decompo*
sition....Comparison between this specular iron discovered by the author, and that noticed by
others in volcanic matters....This specular iron produced in the dry way....Karcness of it in vol-
canic countries....Sulphureous acids produce no change in the iron of Stromboli. ...Its antiquity
....The island of Stromboli formed by rocks of porphyry, melted by subterraneous conflagra-
tions, and thrown up by the Rea....DiiFerent porphyries of countries not volcanic exposed to the
fire of the furnace, to compare the changes caused in them by that with those produced I)y the
volcanic fire....The epoch of the first conflagrations of Stromboli anterior to all history.... Few
notices left of them by the ancient8....Strabo's accounts of Stromboli and Volcano....The erup-
tions of the latter mountain must have been more frequent and stronger, in the time of that geo-
vrrapher, than nt present.. ..Wind which, according to Diodorus Siculus, blew from these two
^ands....Mistakeof Cluveiiu3,that in his time the crater of Stromboli was at the summit of the
rnountain....The most ancient epoch of the conflagration of Stromboli, known to us from history,
anterior to the Christian era by about 290 years.. ..Inquiries relative to the matters which have
so long maintained this conflagration. ^ .. . > ■ >
THE substances of which this island is formed, at least so fl\r as I have been able to
discover, are scoriae, lavas, pumices, and specular iron; as likewise the sand of which I
IX THE TWO SIClLI£i>.
Ill
liave sufficiently spoken in the preceding chapter. Of the scoriit ilicrc are three kinds:
the firit is extremely \'\ir\n, of a dark jjjray colour, and on it the violence ol' the lire has
tak^n most efi'ect. Some sitkiH pieces arc coated over with a true varnish of glass ; the
others ingt-neral consist of semi-transparent vitreous threads, some of which arc as fine
as the threiids of a spider's wcl). Wi may, then fore, conclude that the matter was in a
state of semi- vitrification, when its parts Mere se|)arated by the elastic fluids, and rendered
exta-mely porous ; hut that some of it, instead of separating, lengthened into threads,
which hardened on its contact widi the air. We perceive likewise, that only a degree
more of heat was necessary to render the vitrification complete.
Of the various bodies ejected by the volcano of Stromboli, this kind of scoria appears
to be that on which it has acted with most effect. It has not, however, been changed
into a true glass, if we except some pieces of very inconsiderable size. The conflagration
of Stromboli has never, therefore, arrived at this degree of violence, as I could not find
throughout the whole island either vitrifications or enamels. The natives themselves
indeed sufliciently satisfied nie of their non-existence, as those of the neighbouring island
of Lipari are well known to the inhabitants of all the Eolian isles, under the common
name of fcrizzi.
But may not the scoria here described as in a great degree filamentous, be considered
as a species of pumice? I certainly do not perceive in it the distinguishing characteris-
tics, for the fibrous quality alone is not sufficient. I conclude, therefore, that when any
stone, in consequence of the action of volcanic fires, passes into the state of pumice, cer-
tain determinate conditions are required, either in it, or in the degree of heat to whicli
it is exposed, or perhaps in both, which are not yet sufficiently known to volcanic natu-
ralists, notwithstanding the attention they have bestowed on the subject. Of this the
present scoria may furnish an example. The stone which was its base, by the action
of fire, had been dissolved into lava within the crater ; and this lava by the action of
elastic fluids, and probably by that likewise of sulphur, has become a filamentous sub-
stance, and as its filaments are vitreous, appears to shew an immediate disposition to
change into pumice ; but it was not formed by nature to become that substance, as ap-
pears by the small pieces which have assumed the thin vitreous coating. Were the fires
of Stromboli more violent and powerful, the stones which are melted and thrown out
would pass from the state of scoria to that of perfect glass, without first acquiring the
nature of pumice.
The scoriae of this kind are never thrown by the volcano in large pieces to any great
distance, from the great ease with which they break and pulverise.
It is worthy of remark, that not a few pieces of these scoria: incline to a cylindrical
figure, and that their filaments are parallel to the axis of the cylinder. Both these ef-
fects, in my opinion, may be attributed to the projectile impetus received from the elastic
fluids when forced from the lava in the crater ; those pieces not having had time to
take a globular form, both from their sudden cooling and coagulation in the air, and
from the smallness of their size.
I shall now proceed to speak of the second kind of scoria, I mean that for which
Stromboli is celebrated, and of which its ejections principally consist. This species in
its external appearance has no essential difference from the former ; but its specific gra-
vity is nearly three times as great, it is not at all fibrous, and only exhibits the slightest
signs of a beginning vitrification. In other respects, like the greater part of scoriae, it
is not only rou^h, scattered over with tumours and irregular figures, and every where
scorified ; but it is full 4)f vacuities of round, oblong, and other forms. .The largest of
these are about h^f an inch in length, and the smallest almost invisible. They extend
;i
I*
>^ .^*..^^.-.
112
SrALLANZANl'S TRAVELS
through every part of the scoria quite to the innermost substance, even in the largest
pieces ; and tn the centre of some they are found more numerous and large. Hence
It appears that n universal cfTcrvcscence of the clastic fluids must have prevailed in the
substance of these scorias while they were in a fluid state. The internal surface of each
of these cavities is, as it were, coated with a dull durk-red varnish, while the rest of the
scoriae is black. To discover the visible characteristics of this scoria, it must be examined
with a lens in the recent fractures : we then perceive that the grain is not very fine,
without brilliancy, and of a uniform texture. Its hardness is mwlerate, its fracture ir-
regular, it gives some sparks with steel, emits a weak earthy odour, and attracts the mag-
netic needle at the distance of half a line. These exterior marks afford ground to believe
that this scoria has for its base the horn-stone; and its component principles confirm
the supposition beyond contradiction.
This base however, is not homogeneous, since it contains feltspars and shocrls. On
examining it with attention, we perceive that it is interspersed with a great number of
small while spots, which form a remarkable contrast with the black ground on which
they appear. By having recourse to the aid of the lens, we discover that these spots are
scales of feltspar. As tney are quite flat, wherever they are viewed in the frjicture, they
appear about the thickness of a line, but longer when seen on aflat surface.
The number of the shocrls contained in this scoria is very considerably less than that
of the feltspars, but they are much larger. They are of a black colour, and in figure
prisms, the length of many of which is five lines, and the breadth two. It is, however,
very difficult to extract entire prisms from the scoria, on account of the tenacity with
which they adhere to it.
They may be obtained much more easily in certain low bottoms near the crater,
where they may be found separated from the scoria, the small fragments of which are
there accumulated in great quantities. Detached shoerls may there be found little al-
tered by the atmosphere and elements ; many of them indeed fractured and mutilated,
but some few entire, and still preserving their prismatic figure, which is octohedrous,
and terminated by two pyramids.* They will scarcely cut glass, and consequently can-
not be very hard. Their appearance is vitreous, and they seem as uninjured as when
they were in the rock, their primitive matrix.
Besides the feltspars and shoerls, these scoriae contain various other small stones, which
{ at first doubted whether I should consider as another species of shoerls, or as what have
been called volcanic crysolites. They have the transparency of glass, and are of beau-
tiful colours. Some are of a fine grass green, others of a deeper emerald green, and
others of a mixture of green and yellow. Some of these qualities, which are common
to crysolites, and to certain species of shocrls, caused me to doubt, when I first exa-
mined them, whether I should class them with the former or the latter. But besides
that I could not discover that they had any regular figure, the ease with which they were
fused with the blow-pipe, determined me rather to consider them as shoerls.
. From the observations that have already been made, it seems clear that these two spe-
cies of scoriae are ol the nature of porphyry, as they are composed of a horn-stone in
which feltspars and shoerls are incorporated.t - ; >ii.
* The urigiiiul has " two dihedrous pyramids" (due piramidi diedrc). But (as the German trans-
lator has rightly remarked) who has ever seen a pyramid with only two sides ? 1 have, therefore, with
him, omitted the word, w hich must have been inserted by some mistake. T.
t It appears to be proved by the most recent discoveries of chemical analysis, that the base of the
greater part of porphyries is shoerl in tlie mass, or horn-stone, or trapp ; though it cannot be denied
that this base is likewise frequently siliceous. Many of the lavas, therefore, of the Phlegrcan FieldSr
which I have described in the first volume, may be referred to this kind of stone. ,.
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
Il£
Butbcforc I dismiss this second kind ofscoriii, I must make one moreoiiservation on it.
Some pieces of this scoria h»y near the apertures, from which the streams of smoke I
have already mentioned arose to the west of the volcano. I collected some of thc!,e,
which had almost stop|)cd up one of the orifices through which the fumes issued, and
which consequently was strongly acted on by them. These pieces had undcrgon^
changes similar to those of the luvas of Solfatara. They had lost their black colour,
were covered with light-yellowish crust, and were become so soft that they might be
cut with a knife. The shoerls, however, in the part where this alteration had taken
place, had undergone no change. But the suljihurcous acid which had acted on this
scoria, besides having in part decomposed it, had likewise produced in its cavities small
aggregates of sulphate of aUimine (alum) and sulphate of lime (gypsum.) This obser-
vation I have had an opportunity of making, not on volcanic products long since decom-
posed, which decomposition there is every reason to believe must have been eflectcd by
the means of sulphureous acids; but, instructed by nature herself, on a pnxluct actually
undergoing decomposition, and thus presenting an incontestable proof of the power of
these acids to decompose such substances.
I have denominated the principal matters ejected bv Stromboli, and on which I have
hitherto treated, scoriae; though, according to the judicious and just remark of M. l)o-
lomieu, these differ from lavas only in having undergone greater alteration w ithin the
volcano, having been more inflated, and acquired a surface more rugged, and of a more
irregular form ; and such precisely is the appearance of the stones thrown out by Strom-
boli. I am aware, however, that the difference of these circumstances is not intrinsic and
essential; and that, therefore, what I have termed scoria may be likewise called lava, only
more changed in the volcano, since it is in substance the same matter melted by the fire,
and differently modified by the elastic gases. I think, notwithstanding, that I have ex-
pressed myself with sufficient propriety, when, in the last chapter, I said that the lava
swelled, stmk, burst, and was thrown up into the air, though I have afterwards called
the congealed pieces of it scoriae, since they possess the characteristics of that substance.
With respect to the matters that ferment and boil up in the crater of Stromboli, I
shall here make a remark which may deserve consideration. This volcano, besides the
singularity of having been in a continual state of eruption from time immemorial, has
also this other, that the substances it ejects are more repeatedly acted on by the fires of
its crater than in other volcanos. The latter being situated at the summit of steep moini-
tains, having once thrown out their ignited stones beyond the edges of the fiery gulf,
never receive them again, as they pour headlong down their sides. But the crater of
Stromboli is situated half-way up the mountain, and surro'<nded, except only on the side
which faces the north, by steep precipices; so that, besides the scoria; which are thrown
up perpendicularly, and fall again immediately into it, great quantities which are thrown
beyond its edges roll down the declivities, and return again into it. When we consider,
therefore, how many ages this recurrence of burning matters into the volcano has con-
tinned, we might expect that from the continued action of the fire they must approach
very near to a vitreous nature, or rather be changed into perfect glass ; yet this is by no
means the fact. I caused a quantity of scoris to be dug up from the depth of eight feet,
at no great distance from the mouth of the crater, and found it exactly resemble that on
the surface, though it must have been ejected so long a time before. It is likewise to
be remarked that the shoerls in the recent scoria: are as entire, and as completely crystal-
lized, as those in the most ancient.
These -observations are a certain, and, in my opinion, elegant proof that the activity
of the fire has never been, in former ages, either greater or less than it is at present.
, VOL. v. . (^
If
IM
.U'aLLaN'^'.AMI's TRAVitLl
Not less, hiiicc then tlio liision «»f the matters in the cratiT wuulU not li:i\v taken place,
Hntl consi(|uently there would have been no ernptiunii ; nor jfreatcr (at lea^^t not in any
considerable de|j;ree) otluruist the scoriic would have been conipletely vitrified, and
the shoerlslused, as we find thent by our eonmion fires when intense.
Hence likewise appears what little foundation Uierc is for the opinion of sonic natu-
rulistn, who have supposed that volcanic glasses owe their origin to the refusion of lavas ;
since, as we have seen, no true glass has ever been thrown out by Stroniboli, notwith*
standing the multiplied refusions of the ejected scoria*, or scoriaceous lavas, if any should
choose to call them Ly that name.*
But it is time to consider the third species of scoria. This properly belongs to the
ancient volcano, and is found, on removing the sand, at a small depth, on the east side
of the island, a little above the foot of tne mountain. It is disposed in strata forming
one body with the subjacent lavas, which ut some distant period flowed from the summit
of Stromboli into the sea. The inhabitants make great use of this scoria to build their
houses, as it is very firm and very light, which lightness arises from the small quantity
of matter it contains in proportion to its bulk, and its great poror-sness, As the parti-
tions which separate the cells or pores are very thin, it is diHlcult properly to examine
♦his scoria, which bears the marks of die highest antinuity. After as attentive an exa-
mination as I could bestow, I discovered in it black slioerls and white feltspars. The
bodv of its substance does not dift'er, that I could perceive, from that of the other two
kinfis. • ,
Having thus described the three kinds of scoria: of Stromboli, though I do not mean
to say that other inquirers may not discover more species, 1 shall next proceed to enu-
merate and describe the lavas, which, for the sake of order, I shall divide into porous
and solid, beginning m iih the former.
I. This lava forms an asctnt of some hundred paces, to the west of the island. The
eye does not hesitate a moment to recognise it as a product not at all difl'ering in sub-
stance from the second species of scoria. It has the same ground, consistence, and co-
lour ; and contains the same feltspars and shoerls, both of which are in like manner un-
nuitilated, and have the same crystallization. It likewise gives sparks, in the same man-
ner, \vith steel. But the size and number of its cavities or pores is less, the solid parts
are more smooth, nor have they in their grain that irregularit}' ^vhicll appears to be in-
separable from scoriae. We might therefore suppose that it is the produce of the present
volcano ; nor should I object to that supposition, were the course of the lava on that
side ; but I fi.id it is directed towards the summit of the mountain, where there is every
reason to believe the greater volcano acicntly was situated. I am therefore of opinion
that this was its source.
II. This lava is less porous. The grain has somewhat of a siliceous appearance. It
is smooth to the touch, and gives sjiarks plentifully with steel. It contains but few felt-
spar scales, but iniuunerable slioerls. It lies on the south side of the mountain, in large
single stones.
III. The diftlrcncc between this lava and that of No. II, is but small, and consists in
its greater porosity, and a feeble argillaceous odour. This lava is found scattered over
the island. The petrosilex is the base of both these lavas. .. ^ ,
* With respect to the matters ejected by Stromboli which scorify and do not vitrify, it may perhaps
Ijc siiid that this does not happen, t)ccause tiiey have not caloric enough to become glass, but from the
quality of these matters, which, originating fronj the horn-stone, only produce scorification, and that
from the .]Uuntity of iron they contain.
This reasoning may at first view appear plausible, but is sufTiciently refuted by the easy vitrificar
•ion of these acorise in the furnace, as we shall see presently. >»
IN I II fc I W 0 » I C 1 1. 1 i <
m
I shall now speak of (he solid lavas, which I so tirin, imt liccausc tl toy arc without
|)orC!*, l)ut because their pores arc so miiuitf that the\ eii am the eye.
I. This lava, notwithstanding its solidity, is hi ahle, and }j;ivts sparks feebly with steel.
It abounds in ftltspars, atul still nion in sIkhtIs. It is of a dirk-jj;r.ij colour , itb basf
is horn-stone, and cunsecjuenlly itcniits an earthy odour.
II. This scconds|K.>ciLs of solid lava is still inort I'ri.ibli' than the foriner, and it Ikm a
considerable argillaceous odour. It contains nu stioerls, but so abounds in Icltspars that
they occupy more than one-third of its mass, and are easily di'.tin>;uishcd, as thev arc of
a shining whiteness on a brown f>;round. Their lanuMlic are distributed e(ptally through
its whole contexture;. I colleeted both dns lava, and that of No. I, from several cur
rents of it on the south-east side of Stromboli.
III. 1 am in doul)t whctlur I ou^^ht to call this stone a lava, as it is a por|)hyry of a
beautiful dark-red colour, which changes to a black as soon as it is exposed to the activity
of the furnace. The place, likewise-, in which I found it, contributes to increase my
doubts. This was a hill of tufa forming u larg( inclined str.ituni, on the sotiili cast side
of the island, within which it is foinul in large masses. I was ltd, then Ion;, to conjec-
ture, that both this porphyry and the tufa might have beenthroun out by the volcano
without having been exposed to the violence of the fire. I am still, however, un able to
form any determinate conclusion, since I am in possession of several oilier spccinunsof
porphyry, which bear indubitable marks of having lucn fused, though they still retain ii
lM.'autiful red colour, as will be seen when I come to treat of the island of Lijiari. How
ever this may be, this stone has for its base the petrosilex, is spotted with white feltspars,
Qnd takes a fine and brilliant polish.
IV. This lavu which is found in a long-continued current, on the south-west side of
Stromboli, contains, as usual, scattered feltspars. It is of a black colour, of the horn-stone
base, and emits a strong earthy odour. It is accompanied with various greenish and
black shoerls. A number of curling veins and waves appear in it, which probabl} were
produced when it flowed from the mountain. Though it is solid, it has in it several
small cavities, all of w hich arc long ellipses, all placed in the direction of the current
from which they certainly derive their figure.
These are thescoriaj and lavas found at Siromboli, omitting a few varieties, which
would only swell the work, without adding to its utility.
According to the division I hav e made, after the lavas, I should proceed to speak of
the tufas, as I have already given the reader to understand they are not wanting in some
parts of the island. But I think I fully describe tliese, when' I s;iy that they arc an ar-
gillaceous earth, pulverisiible, extremely bibacioiis, of a gray colour, containing frag-
ments of feltspar and shoerl, and which, in the furnace, hardens without melting. Such,
at least, are the characters of the tuflts which I observed at Stromboli.
I now proceed to the fourth kind of the volcanic productions of this island, the pu-
mices. These arc found on the cast side of the mountain, at about one-third of its height,
on the sides of some pathways which cross several vineyards, and in the furrows made
by the descent of the waters. They are not found in masses, and still less in currents, but
in small pieces, which arc not numerous, and it is easy to perceive that they have been
brought above ground by the labours of men, or by the action of the rains ; and, lol-
lowing the traces they afford, we find them buried under the sand, at the depth of se-
veral feet. Here they are but thinly scattered, and are in the same state as when thrown
out of the volcano. I cannot pretend to ascertain from what crater they originated,
whether the ancient, the present, or some other, the remembrance and traces of which
are lost ; as nothing affords any light to direct my researches relative to this obscure
q.2
110
tfrALLANSAWl's TRAVILS
question. I fouiul them in no other |Kirt of the JHland. An tticy do not diflfer fram the
more common and known snecicd, it would Ik- nuncrfluouit to fi^ivc u long dciicriptiou
of them. I hIuiII only say tliut their baav is |Ktrosiliccous, with a mixture, as usual, of
reltspars.
Stromholi han, ihcnforc, nt some other period thrown out pumices, though It doca
not eject the ni at present. A similar change, though on u larger scale, wc And likewise
take place in VesuviuH.
The different kinds of scoria: and lavas being exposed to the fire of the furnace in se-
parate crucibles, the base, whether ot'petrosilex or horn-stone, changes into a shining,
ebullient, but hard glass, with u fusion of the shoerls, but not of the fel< pars. From the
pumice was obtained a glass, lighter from the multitude of its pores, of a gray colour,
and dully transparent.
It now remains to sneak of the iron, the fifth and Inst of the volcanic productions which
I found on this iaiaiiu. This is s|M.'cular. I am not ignorant that this species of metal
has been likewise observed in other volcnnos ; but it gave me pleasure that I was the
first who had discovered it in the Li])ari islands; and this pleasure was considerably in-
creased, when I perceived that the crystallizations of this iron were much larger than
those which had been observed by others ; and, consequently, much better adstpted to
uhew and explain their formation. It is found on the southern side of the island, at the
distance of somewhat more than a mile from the inhabited part, in a rock of lavn, which
descends almost perpendicularly into the sea, from the height of about a hinidred and
fifty paced. Some natives ^f Stromboli having shewn me a small si^cimen of this iron,
without knowing what it was, as one of the rarities of their country, I was very desirous
to obti'in some others, but such as might shew the iron still adherinf<: to the matrix, as
these were detached pieces, found on the beach under the rock. But to procure new
])ieces of this production, neither entreaties nor any common oflTcrs of reward availed ;
and, to say the truth, so great was the la'^our and uanger of obtaining them, that they
never could be suHiciently paid for. To get at these stones, as they call them, it was
necessary to go by a very dangerous way, scarcely passable by the wild goat, much less
by meiii and therefore called very properly il malo passo, the bad or dangerous road. But,
to reach the precise spot where the iron is found, still greater danger must be encoun-
tered, as the rock, besides its extreme steepness, is partly fallen down, and the rest on
the point of falling ; and it is very difficult to find firm footing on it, without slipping,
and falling headlong into the sea. The desire of g iio. however, added to the habit in
which these peasants are of passing cliffs and fearful precipices, induced two of them to
undertake this enterjirise, which they successfully executed, bringing back with them
some ver}' beautiful pieces of this iron which they had separated from the lava with a
pick-axe. From them I learned, that the rock has clefts in many places, and that within
those clefts the iron is found.
This metal is crystallized in laminae, vertical to the mother rock, in which they are
so firmly infixed, that they must be broken to obtain them detached. The two faces
of every lamina or plate are |)anillel to each other, or nearly so. In general, the plates,
at a first view, ap|)ear oval ; but, when examined with more attention, they arc found to
be polygons. The figure of these polygons is extremely diversified. Sometimes they
are triangles, terminating, in the up|x:r ^xirt, in an obtuse angle ; and sometimes in a right,
or acute angle, though this but rarely. Some of those plates have six, seven, eight, and
sometimes more, sides ; nor is there less variety in the length of the sides, or the measure
of the contained angles. The sides arc freciuently cut by plates, which are triangular,
quadrangular, rhomboidal, or of other polygonal figures. Nature, therefore, io the
IN THI TWO SICIMBI.
IIV
forinntiou of this metal, apjunri not to hnvc prc>»crib<'d to hcnicll' any Biiiglc form of
cr) Htallization ; or, nt Irast, if shv has, it is not easy to discover the simple primitive
figure from u hich has arisen so f^reat a variety.
The phitcs or faces h:\ve such a lirilliancy atui polish, that if the fme!it steel be not in-
ferior, it certainly is not superior to ihcm in beaut) . They reflect the li((ht equally with
the most perfect mirrors. The largest exceed four inches in length, and tnrce und a
lialf in breadth ; hut there arc intuimeral)le others which arc smaller ; and only one inch,
or the half, the third, or the rptarter, of an inch, until they become so minute as to Ik*.
only visible by the microsco|)c ; but they arc always crystallized in one of the figures
already mentioned. A single lamina is never seen, but they arc always in groups,
which groups arc sometimes twenty or more inches in circuit. The number of them*
therefore, is very great.
I must not here omit to mention a peculiar circumstance, which usually attend • these
crystallizations. The circumference of these thick metallic grouws is formed of laminso
so minute, that a strong lens is necessary to discern them ; but they become gradually
larger as they approach the centre, where they are largest of all. '1 here arc also places
in these groups where Nature seems rather to have sketched than completed her work.
We find there groups or small masses of iron which present only the first principle of
crystallization. In others we do not find even this sketch but only u crust attached to
the matrix. There arc also places in which a number of small tumours arise, that view-
ed with the naked eye appear to be without form, but when examined with the lens, are
discovered to consist of a multitude of small laminae irregularly conglutinated. In the
same manner, some crusts are formed, in some places three lines in thickness, which,
both internally and on the superficies, are found to be composed of an aggregate of la-
minae thrown irregularly on each other.
In reference to some observyt jns I shall hereafkcr have to make, I must mention that
some of these aggregates of laminae are either entirely covered with a coating of sulpliatc
of lime, so that it must be taken off to get at them, or at least only the upper part of them
rises above it. This coating is of a very white colour, and so strongly attached to the
iron, that it appears like wax that has been poured over it and hardened.
The colour of these laminae, in general, greatly resembles that of the finest and most
brilliant steel ; except some which have a violent tincture. They are as resplendent in
die fractures as on the faces. Notwithstanding their great hardness, they arc nearly as
brittle as glass.
On carefully examining these laminae, a phenomenon presented itself, which increased
my attention. This was some scales parallel to each other, which arose from the faces
of these crystals, and induced me to suspect that their composition might be the result
of a number of small leaves united and conglutinated together. An inspection of the
larger lamina; convinced me that this conjecture was well founded ; for, on breaking
them crosrnvise, I frequently found in the fractures very small leaves. There are also
some which very evidently shew them, and in great numbers, on their faces. A leaf,
for example, may occupy a sixth part of the face and their end. F'urther on, under
that, another appears, which extends another sixth, and then terminates like the for-
mer. Still farther, under the second leaf, appears a third, whic!> jxtends only a small
space : and in like manner others : so that the lamina will be the less, the smaller the
number of the leaves c: which it is composed. I shall here avail himself of a compa-
rison, which, though not very scientific, will aptly explain what I mean. When a num-
ber of leaves of paper are, first, rolled up, and afterwards spread out on a flat surface,
it will happen, on their unrolling, that each will separate a little from the next, so tliat
ii
\
!
V
I.
I
iV.
*
i.
M'
118
3I'y\Lr-AKZANl's TRAVELS
they luay all be numbered ; and it will be evident that the first, which is aljovc all the
rest, renders the heap larger, and that the leaves being successively taken away, tlic
heap will be diminished, until it will at length only consist of the single last leaf.
The laminae, however, are not all composed in this manner. In some the component
scales arecongUitinatcd in such a manner that they do not appear, and the fracture pre-
ftcnts a continual surface. Yet there are but fe\v laminae so smooth on both their faces
as not to shew the presence of some leaf. More than once I have found on one lamina
others attached u hieh shewed they were of laicr formation.
These facts, when compared, must remove every doubt with respect to the nature of
tlie formation of these noble crystals, as it is manifest they arc composed of a greater or
less number of small plates, which, placed upon, and adhering to, each other, form the
larger lamina;.
Among all the volcanic nroductions which I met with and collected in my travels,
there is not one which gives sparks so plentifully with steel, or influences the magnetic
needle at so great a distance, as this of which I now treat.
Almost every lamina, part, or fragment of this production possesses polarity, attracting
tlie magnetic needle at one end, and repelling it at the other ; which attraction and re-
pulsion are equal in force. The same powers of attracting and repelling are equally
found in the crusts of iron apparently not crystallized, and in their parts.
Notwithstanding, however, its power to move the rrngnetic needle, it is scarcely at all
acted on by the magnet, at least, not unless it be reduced to very small particles.
When approached to the Leyden phial, it freely conducts the electric shock.
The furnace has no other eflect on it than to deprive the laminae of their brilliancy,
and diminish, in a small degree, its magnetic virtue, which is not destroyed even by the
fusion of the lamina ; to obtai'i which the blowing pipe is not sufficient ; but oxygenous
gas (dephiogisticated air) must be applied for about two minutes, as one will not be long
enough. The little ball into which a small lamina of specular iron is converted, loses on
its surface all brilliancy, and acquires the colour of lead exposed to the air. Internally,
how ever, it still retains some resplendence ; but the friability of its parts is increased, and
it gives but few sparks with steel. The same change takes place in this metal which is
so frequently observable in other bodies after having been in a state of fusion : it is in-
tersjiersed with small air-bubbles, and rendered, in a manner, spongy.
Such arc the principal properties of the specular iron which I discovered at Stromboli.
But it is of importance to know, of what nature is its matrix. This is a lava which does
not essentially differ from those lavas of this volcanic country which are of the horn-
stone base, except that it has undergone great changes. It is so friable, that it may be
scratched with the nail. Instead of being black, or dark brown, it is of a cinereous, and,
in some places, of a reddish colour. It is extremely porous, and therefore light ; and its
grain rough and dry, not unlike that of some simd-stones. Its odour is argillaceous,
and it adheres strongly to the tongue, like a burnt bone. When immersed in water, it
imbibes it with a hissing noise, and saturates itself with it.
Besides that it gives no sparks whatever with steel, this la' a has not the smallest effect
on the magnetic needle, except when some small particle of specular iron still remains
within it ; for though the latter principally covers the external surface of the lava, a num-
ber of microscopic lanunae glitter, here and there, in its internal pores.
The small feltspar crystals in this changed lava are entire, but their natural brilliancy
is diminished, uud they are cracked. It is necessary to look with attention to distin-
guish them from the substance of the lava, as their colour is the same ; but they arc
much more easily discernible when the lava has been exposed to the furnace, since they
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
11 'J
vc all the
avay, tlic
L'af.
amponcnt
'tine pre-
hcir faces
iiic lamina
natnre of
greater or
, form the
ly travels,
magnetic
attracting
n and re-
X equally
rcely at all
les.
brilliancy,
/en Ly the
•xygenous
lOt be long
i, loses on
Internally,
eased, and
I which is
I : it is in-
Jtromboli.
I'hich docs
the horn-
it may be
eous, and,
t ; and its
^lUaceous,
t water, it
illest effect
II remains
va, a num-
brilliancy
to distin-
Lit they are
since they
have then ac(|iiircd a greater degree of whiteness, and are seen through a thin Ijlackish
crust of cnanulvinto which the surface of the lava is changed. This, however, in a
few seconds, is entirely freed from the ox\ genous gas, and a homogeneous but ebul-
lient enamel produced.
The great analogy between the alteration undergone by this lava and the changes
produced in ^ >any others by the action of sulphureous acids, sufficiently shews that it
proceeds fron. the same cause. This is likewise evidently confirmed, bj the thin crusts
of sulphate of lime with which it h coated, and which have been gcjierated by the
sulphureous acids, combined with the small portion of iime contained within the horn-
stone.
It will here not be improper to give a concise account of some observations of a simi-
lar kind with those I have made, that by comparing we may be enabled to deduce such
conclusions as may elucidate the subject.
The first author, who, to my knowledge, has spoken of crystallized iron adhering to
volcanic matters, is M. Faujas in his Mineralogie des Vulc'ains. He tells us that he
found at Volvic, in Auvergne,* a homogeneous and heavy lava, from the surface and
fissures of which projected a great number of small thin plates of iron, which had the
lustre of the finest polished steel. Though he does not give their size, there is reason to
believe they must have been almost microscopic ; since he says a lens of considerable
magnifying power was necessary to discover that some of these plates were . ^gments of
hexagonal prisms, and that others consisted of two hexagonal pyramids joined at the
base. They were attracted by the magnet. The lava to which they adhered, accord-
ing to him, was basaltic, but greatly altered, having become ^vhite, cracked, friable
and softened.
M. De Larbre, physician at Riom, examined with great care, both the iron of Vol-
> ic above-mentioned, and that „]' the Puy de Dome and Mont d'Or in the same pro-
vince.! The crystals of the latter iron are sections of octahedrons similar to those of
ulum, and sometimes perfect octahedrons. It is at Mont d'Or that t!ie crystallizations,
or plates, of specular iron are most beautiful and distinct. The largest are about an
inch and a half in breadth, somewhat more in length, and about a line and a half, or
at most two lines in thickness. The faces of the plates, when viewed with the lens,
discover streaks and diminutions which prove the accumulation of a number of small
laminas.
The specular iron of the three above-mentioned places in Auvergne possesses a mag-
netic quality, and many pieces of it attract tie magnetic needle on one side, and repel
it on the other.
M. De Larbre remarks that the specular crystallized irons of Mont d'Or, the Puy
de Dome, and Volvic, have the same matrix, that is, a cellular and pumiceous lava ;
Ijnd that this lava has been more or less changed by the action of acids.
Lastly, a third specimen of the crystals of specular iron has been described by the
commendator Dolomieu, which was found by him on some solid lavas, at Jaci Reale,
and on different scoriae, which had been changed and softened by acid sulphureous va-
pours, in the crater of Monte Rosso. Those found at the former place were tliin shin-
ing plates, of a regular hexagonal figure, hard, slightly attracted by the magnet, and
the largest not exceeding a line and a half. Those of Monte Rosso consisted only of
small, thin, irregular scales.
* Now the department of Veky. T.
t See his Dissertation in the Journal ^e Physique par I'Abbe Rozier, ran. 1786.
tf
_J
120
SPALLANZANl's TRAVELS
:i
When I compare these observations on specular iron with my own, I find tliat they
greatly resemble them. The iron described by these authors is, like mine, crystallized ;
but the crystallization is diiTercnt, and the laminae of the iron of Stromboli are larger
than those of that of Auvcrgne and Etna. The beautiful lustre, like that of steel, and
the magnetic virtue, arc the same in both. The formation of the crystals of Auvergne
is observed to arise from the apposition of small scales, as I observed in mine, only that,
in the latter, it is more distinctly seen. Lastly, the lavas in which this specular iron is
found excepting those of Jaci Reale, have all undergone a change.
This identity in the effects naturally induces to conclude an identity of cause. The
three naturalists above cited are of opinion, that the formation of these martial cr)'stals
is to be ascribed to the volcanic fire ; by the action of which the metal was separated
from the lava of which it made a part, and sublimed ; and that afterwards, falling on
the surface, and into the clefts, it there attached and collected, taking a regular form.
This explanation is, certainly, not only the most natural, but is confirmed by facts ;
since iron, in crucibles, using certain precautions, cr}'stallizes in a similar manner, as
has been observed by MM. Grignon, Faujas and Buffon. I am therefore of the same
opinion relative to the specular iron of Stromboli, that is, that the vehement hcai A'
the fire deprived the lavas of this metal, by subliming it, which afterwards attached « j
their surface, producing laminated crystals, more or less large, and more or less nume-
rous, with those varieties which usually accompany crystallizations. In fact, while al-
most all the other lavas of Stromboli move the magnetic needle, those which have crys-
tallizati( j of iron on their surface, have not the least effect on it ; no doubt because
they are in a great measure deprived of that metal. But as, in general, the fire has
acted on the other lavas, in the same manner as on those which exhibit the specular iron,
and as, besides, the specimens of the latter are not numerous in volcanized countries
(since, excepting the places above-mentioned, and some of the Phlegrean-fields,* I
know none where this crystallized iron is found) it seems not to be doubteri out some
other circumstance, besides the fire, must concur to its formation ; which perhaps may
be the union of the iron with the muriate of ammoniac, as it is well known that by such a
union that metal is sublimed and passes into the nature of specular iron.
We have seen that the specular iron of Stromboli is, in many places, covered with
sulphate of lime ; and since this sulphate derives its formation from the action of the
:>vi!phureous acids, they must have acted likewise on the metal, the crystallization of
which is anterior in its origin to this neutral salt, which closely invests and covers it.
But though these acids are sufficiently powerful to attack and decompose the most solid
and hard lavas, they have not been able to make any impression on the specular cr}'stals,
which have likewise resisted all the shocks of other destructive causes, among which the
aeriform fluids floating in the atmosphere are no small part, and still retain that brilliant
lustre which they received at fir«t, notwithstanding the antiquity of their production,
which is probably the same with that of Stromboli itself, of which the annals of time
aF'>rtl no memorj-. For, in fact, these crystallizations being found adhering to a rock
formed of strata of lava, which serves as a foundation to almost t'^iC whole superstructure
of the mountain, we cannot recur to any times known to history, but must go back
to that most remote period in which the island was formed by subterraneous con-
fiagrations.
We have now finished the description of the volcanic products of Stromboli ; I mean
the sand, scoriae, lavas, tufaS; pumices, and specular iron. Oiviitting this metal, the pu-
• Sec chap. V.
■ >iiww «»"»
IN THE TWO SICILILG.
IJI
at they
Uized ;
! larger
:el, and
verenc
ily that,
iron is
. The
cr)'stals
paratcd
liing on
ur form.
y facts ;
jiner, as
^ same
heel >**
iched > -i
s nume-
while al-
ive crys-
bccause
fire has
liar iron,
;ountries
iclds,* I
»ut some
aps may
y such a
red with
in of the
ation of
overs it.
lost solid
cr}'stals,
vhich the
brilliant
)duction,
s of time
to a rock
structure
go back
ous con-
I mean
the pu-
mices, and the tufa, three productions wliich occupy only a small corner of Stromholi,
this island maybe said to be formed, as far at least as extcrfnlly appears, of scoiiac and
lavas ; and since these scorire and lavas have been shewn to (lori\c their origin from por-
phyry roeks, partly with the horn-stone base, and partly with that of the pctrosilox, it
must be concluded, that the material origin and increase of Stromboli is to be attrii)uted
to porphyry, which, melted by subterranean conflagrations, and rarified by elastic gaseous
substances', arose from the bottom of the sea, and, extending itself on the sides, in la-
vas and scoria;, has formed an island of its ^ircsent size. These porphyry rocks like-
wise still furnish macter for the present eruptions.
Before I conclude this chapter, I must not omit two inquiries which I consider as of
no little importance. In my ivscarches relative to volcanos, I have proposed as a rule,
to subject the volcanized bodies to the action of the furnace, in order to compare the
activity and manner of action of the subten-ancan fires with that of our common fire ;
and I have found this practice, and expect still to find it, not a little instructive. But
with respect to the Eolian isles, which I have studied wiUi the greatest attention, I have
judged it projjcr to make other ex[)eriments of the following kind.
Having ascertained, by various observations, the different kinds of prlmiti\ e rocks,
which by their fusion havt: contributed to the formation of each of these islands ; I re-
solved to subject to the furnace, rocks of a similar nature, but brought from countries not
volcanic, remarking in what manner they arc affected by our common fire, and thus
make a comparison of another kind, which must be of equal utility with the former.
To this inquiry, which has perhaps been first made by m}sclf, I shall add another,
relative to the accounts left us by the ancients concerning the conflagrations of Strom-
boli, which I shall state and consider. I shall proceed in the same manner with respect
to the other islands, as an examination of these accounts will enable us to compare the
present state of these countries produced by subterraneous conflagrations with that of for-
mer times.
With respect to the first object of research, as the principal materials of Stromboli
derive their origin from rocks of poqihyry, 1 sliall briefly relate the results of cxperi-
ments made on difterent kinds of this stone, in its natural state, exposed in the usual
manner to the furnace ; and I request my courteous re. ders to endure the fatigue of
reading these experiments, since 1 endured the fatigue of making them.
I. This porphyry is Egyptian. Its colour is a dark red, i s base compact ; and its re-
cent fractures fine and earthy. It gives sparks plentifully >vit'i steel, and breaks into
irregular pieces. The base includes a few black, shining, linear and opaque, shoerls ;
with abundance of feltspars of two kinds ; the one quadrangular, of a pale red colour,
and almost opaque ; the other likewise quadrangular, but transparent and brilliant. It
is well known that this porphyry takes a fine polish, which renders it very beautiful to
the eye.
After remaining twenty-four hours in tne furnace, it is perfectly fused ; when it is
cbinged into a black enamel, minutely spotted with ash-gray points^ which arc feltspars.
These, therefore, continue entire. This enamel abounds in pores, gives fire with steel,
but less than tlie porphyry, has a lively lustre, and is transparent in the angles.
If this stone remains in the furnace eight-and- forty hours successively, it becomes a
compact enamel, uniformly black, from the complete fusion of the feltspars, which then
form with the base one honiogeneous whole.
It has been the opinion of many celebrated naturalists, that the base of the Egyptian
porphyry is a jasper ; but the easy fusion of it in the glass-furnace convinces me of the
contrary ; and I find one of the most eminent of our modern lithologists agrees with me
VOL. v.
122
tiPALT.ANZANl'S TRAVELS
in that conclusion. To obtain, however, as m^ich certainty as possible, on this point,
which I considered as important, I exposed some jaspers to the heat of the same furnace
but no fusion took place. The following are the results of my experiments on five dif-
ferent kinds of jasper, which I exposed, in small fragments, to the fire of the furnace,
during forty-eigut hours.
The first jasper was of the yellow colour of honey, interrupted with red streaks, witlr
a grain rather siliceous than earthy, and received a beautiful polish, though with litMc
lustre. This became lighter, extremely friable, of a colour approaching that of ire n,
the red streaks having acquired that of sealing-wax. No fusion followed, except in
some parts, which, being higher than the rest in the crucible, had been more exposed
to the violence of the fire, and were covered with a very thin vitreous coating.
The second jasper was of the yellow colour of wax, of a fine grain, and siliceous,
gave sparks plentifully with steel ^nd took a very beautiful polish. This only under-
went a considerable degree of cu ' "..'i, by which it became light, friable, full of
cracks, and of a blackish-brown.
The same colour, and the same calci.iution, w ithout any sign of fusion, was observ-
able likewise in a third jasper, of a blood-red colour, of an appearance between the
siliceous and the argillaceous, and less hard than the second kind.
A fourth and fifth species equally resisted fusion. One of these was of a dark-red,
and the other of a mixed colour. Both were of a grain rather siliceous, gave sparks
with steel, and, like the other three, were entirely opaque.
These five kinds of jasper were brought, some from Lower Hungary, and some from
Germany ; and all the five, as has been seen were infusible in the glass lurnace.
The experiments I h.ive here described perfectly agree with those of M. D'Arcet,
who found the same infusibility in four kinds of jasper, notwithstanding they were rtduc
edto powder, and exposed to the action of the most violent fire employed in the manu.
facture of porcelaine. M. Mongcz found this stone equally infusible with the blowing.
pipe.
These facts, therefore, convince me that the base of the porphyry cannot be a jasper;
for, had it been, it would not have melted ; I must add, likewise, that I obtiuned the
same easy fusion from two other kinds of oriental porphyry.
Dolomieu and Delametherie, who both agree that the base of the Egyptian porphy-
ry is not jasper, differ, nevertheless, as to what this base is, the former maintaining it
is petrosilex, and the latter that it is horn-stone. The chemical analysis, however, ad-
duced by M. Delametherie of a red porphyry, similar to mine, which shews its biisi; to
be horn-stone, induces me to prefer his opinion to that of the other French naturalist.
I have not yet had leisure to examine chemically the Egyptian porphyries which I ex-
posed to the action of the fire ; but of this operation, which I certainly shall not omit,
I shall give an account hereafter, when, in another part of this work, 1 shall have occa-
sion to say more of volcanic porphyries. At present, let us return to our subject.
II. This porphyry, which has the petrosilex for its base, isofabkieishrcd, of a grain
moderately fine, angular in its fractures, of middling hardness, and heavy. It contains
very brilliant quadrangular scales of feltspar, and a few small leaves of black mica.
In the furnace this stone produced a compact enamel which gave sparks plentifully
with steel, very even in its fractures, transparent at the angles, and of a daik cinereous
colour, with some black spots, which were half-fused mica. The feltspars remained
entire, but calcined. This enamel, on the surface where the heat had acted with most
violence, was invested with a very thin vitreous coating, which was semi-transparent, aad
of a topaz colour.
IN THr TWO SICILIES.
12;)
III. Ill this porpliyry, the fcltspars, which were in round scales, but little brilliant,
and of u yellowish colour, arc included in a petrosiliccous ground, of a reddish bro>vii,
of a scaly fracture, and which contains points of steatites.
To melt it entirely, it required a continuance of thirty six hours in the furnace, when
a dully trans|)arent, hard, compact glass is produced, of the colour of the common
chalcedony, in vhich the fcltspars are preserved entire, though changed to a milky
whiteness.
IV. The petrosilex, which is the base of the present porphyry, and which, both in
its i^ubstance and grain, approaches very near to the common flint, is semi-transparent,
of an olive green ; its fcltspars arc quadrangular, and of a changing aspect.
It is infusible in the furnace, except on the surface, which is changed into a transpa-
rent and compact glass, without the fusion of its fcltspars.
V. The fcltspars in this porphyry are very brilliant and sparkling ; they are found in
a petrosiliccous ground, of a pale rose red, scaly, opaque, and of moderate hardness.
In the furnace the fcltspars lose, by calcination, the beauty of their changing colours,
and their compactness from the number of cracks they contract : the petrosiliccous base
is likewise transmuted into a dully transjjarent glass, of the colour of soot.
VI. This porphyry is extremely compact, hard, and heavy. Its base is a clear red
petrosilex, of an equal grain, smooth, and containing sm;iJl quadrangular scales of bril-
liant fcltspars.
A continuance in the furnace of not less than forty-eight hours is necessary for this
porphyry to acquire an imperfect vitrification. It is then transparent at the angles, of
a black colour, ana has lost its natural hardness : the fcltspars it contains, however, shew
no signs of fusion.
Besides the six porphyries already described, the base of which is petrosilex, I made
experiments, in the same fire, on some specimens of pure petrosilex, of which I shall not
give a particular account, to avoid superfluous prolixity. I shall only say, in general,
that I found them refractory, that they abounded in silex, and that they formed, as it
were, the point of transition of the petrosilex into the silex. On the contrary, all the
rest are more or less fusible.
I likewise made similar experiments on some natural porphyries, with the horn-stone
base ; many of these having likewise suffered the fires of Stromboli.
VII. Thebaseof this porphyry is not sufficiently hard to give sparks with steel. It
is of a dark gray, earthy, unequal in its fractures, soft to the touch, yielding a sensible
argillaceous odour, and containing, besides some grains of a crystal and pellucid quartz,
a great number of white fcltspars, which being easily cut with a penknife, shew how great
a change they have undergone from the influence of the seasons and the atmosphere.
The furnace changed this porphyry into a black scoria of little consistence, and its
fcltspars assumed a vitreous appearance, though without any sensible fusion.
VIII. This stone, at first sight, would rather be taken for a granite than a porphyry,
as wc find in it quartz, mica, and feltspar, did we not observe that the three latter sub-
stances are united in a common cement or paste, which is a horn-stone, rather si)ft, of a
ciiiertous colour, and an argillaceous odour.
The three substances remain entire in the furnace ; but the ground in which they are
included is changed into a hard, black, and shining enamel.
IX. The base ofthis porphyry is a horn- stone of rather a fine grain, sufficiently hard
to give sparks with steel, of a greenish colour, and emits a strong earthy odour. Some
of its fcltspars form rather large irregular masses of a brick red colour ; and others small
quadrangular crystals of a light yellow colour.
R 2
^c»*
124
SPALLANZANl'tt TRAVELS
1^
■ I
k
^i
This btonc is changed by the furnace into a black enamel, moderately inflated, and
hard. Its feltspais, however, remain entire, only with the change of their red colour
into a white.
X. The horn-stone of the present porphyry is laminated, of a smooth surface, easily
cut with the knife, and of a reddish-green colour. Its feltsi)ars are rhomboidal ; and
some are four lines and a half in length and three in thickness.
In the furnace they remain imaltered ; but the ground of the porphyry is changed into
a black and hard scoria, full of little bubbles.
I shall omit the description of many other porphyries, the base of which was in like
manner horn- stone, and on which I made the same experiments, since the results were
essentially the same with those already stated. I shall only mention that these diflferent
species of porphyry, some of which had the petrosilex, and others the horn-stone for
their base, were brought from those parts of Hungary and Cicrmany, where, according
to the observations of scientific travellers, no truces whatever of volcanization are dis-
coverable.
If \\c now compare the enicts of the volcanic fires and our common fire on these vari-
ous kinds of porphyries, we shall find that the principal difference is, that the furnace vi-
trifies them, destroying their original structure, whereas the fires of Stromboli seldom
change their natural lineaments. In both cases \ve find the feltspars, for the most part,
remain infusible ; but what appears of most importance to the present object of our re-
search is, that the stones with a petrosiliceous base, as well as those with that of horn-stone,
may be fused in a strong heat (such as that of the glass furnace) and without its being
neeessar}- to have recourse to the most vehement that can be procured.
From these experiments we learn, therefore, in what manner the subterranean fire of
Stromboli, even though we should not consider it as extraordinarily active, may have
been able to melt, and may still continue to liquefy, the rocks of porphyry which have
existed, and still exist, in the abysses of that mountain. The facility, likewise, with
vhich its lavas may be rc-melted in a glass furnace, is a strong confirmation of the hypo-
ihcsis.
Whh respect to the time M-hen this volcano began to exert its activity, and to melt
these rocks, we are i)rofoundly ignorant, this being an epocha anterior to all history.
We must be contented w ith the imperfct accounts the ancients have left us of the con-
flagrations of Stromboli, which did not Inu^* forth in their time, but ages before. Of
these aecoinits I shall proceed to give a concise view, this being the second inquiry it
was proposed to make, and it will necessarily be brief, as the notices left us on this sub-
ject Iw the ancients are extremely few.
Eustaiius, Solinus, and Pliny, inform us that the flames of Stromboli are less power-
ful than those of the other islands of Lipari, but that they exceed them in clearness and
splendour. These writers, hovvever, were only the copiers of Strabo, or perhaps some
abridgment of him, in which he is copied incorrectly. We shall therefore have recourse
to that celebrated Grecian geographer himself; who, after having mentioned Lipari and
Vulcano, and informed us that Stromboli likewise burns, tells us that the last island com-
pared to the others, is inferior to them in the violent eruption of its flames, but that it
exceeds them in their brightness.*
It is evident, that by "the others," Strabo means Vulcano, which was the only one
of the Kolian isles, besides Stromboli, in a state of conflagration in his time. When
I compare Stromboli with Vulcano, I perceive that, even now, there is this differencq
* 'E;i al (7^r^ty!'Cftx) k»S tturx SiitT:/ji(, lli» ,u'» "^Xiyot hu}riftit»y t£ J'i ^iylu -rXtcituriTch Lib. VU
-^ii.-.:^.**''— »-
JN THE TWO SICILlfia.
Ii6
into
l)et\vcen the two islands, that the flames of the former are mueh more res|)lcn(lcnt aiul
lively than thoijeol'the latter, as will appear when wc come to treat ol' \ uleano; but
I cannot say that those of Strom!)oli are less violent, as the contrary is certainly the
fact. \V'e must, however, conclude, that in those af^s^ the eruptions of V'uleano were
verj strong and frequent, which agrees uith the testimony of Diodc^rus, and that of Aga-
thoeles as cited by the Scholiast on Apollonius ; the former of whom asserts, that, in
his time, Vulcano and Stromboli vomited great quantities of sand and burning stones,*
and the latter, that these two islands threw out fire, both by day and night.f
There is another circumstance mentioned by the Sicilian historian which deserves
notice. This is, that a wind issues Irom both these islands with a great noise. This,
in some measure, agrees with the observaticjns I made at Stromboli ; and is still more
applicable to the other island, as will be seen when I come to give an account of Vul-
cano.
Philip Cluverius, in his Sicilia Anticjua, speaking of Stromboli, tells us that its crater
is situated at the summit of a mountain, from which it pours forth, both by day and by
night, with a horrible noise, bright flames, and great quantities of [)umice.| In one of
the plates prefixed to his work, this island is represented with the stnoke rising from the
summit of the mountain.
Nearly one hundred and seventy-three years have now elapsed since this author tni-
velled in Sicily. Ought we then to conclude, that, at that time, die mouth of the vol-
cano was situated at the summit of the mountain ? Had the learned anticjuary himi c!f
visited the island, I could not have objected to his evidence. But he not only does n^^t
say this, but the contrary may be inferred from his own words. Immediately after the
passage I have already cited, he adds, "sed perpetui ejus ignes eminus navigantibus,
nocte tantum, conspiciuntur. Fumum eorum candidissimum ex Italiie pariter ac Sici-
lise iittoribus conspexi." It is therefore evident that he saw this volcano only from a dis,
tance, and that, consequently, his assertion, that the fiery crater was situated at the sum-
mit, is not to be depended on. What he has said of the pumices then thrown out by it,
hemiiy have taken on the crcditof someof the natives who gave him that information,
and who confounded the scoriaceous lavas with pumices ; or it may in fact be true,
since under the scoriaj and lavas of Stromboli, scattered pumices are found, as 1 have
observed above.
From the authorities above adduced it appears, therefore, that the most ancient ac-
counts of the conflagrations of Stromboli, transmitted to us by histor\-, arc prior to the
Christian era by about two hundred and ninety years, the date of the reign of Agathocles
the celebrated tyrant oi" Syracuse. This volcano burned likewise in the times of Au-
gustus and Tiberius, when Diodorus and Strabo flourished. But after this latter period,
a long series of ages succeeds, during which, from want of documents, we are ignorant
of the stiite of Stromboli, and it is not imtil the seventeenth century that we again know,
with certainty, that it ejected tire ; though it is not improbable that it continued to
burn likewise during the times in which we find no mention of it in history : on wliich
supposition, its uninterrupted conflagration, for so great a length of time, must indeed
appear astonishing. Yet, though it should have ceased for several ages, we know, from
* 'E» /• TK STg',yri/Xi», nai r» Iijw, ft'XV "' ""' '* '*'*" X'^f'*'"'* •""'"'■I*' 7rHvu»,it ftiyi^eu ""•« ^{«f««c if «(?/«?.
tK^vr»7»i Jt X4I aftfiiifi *ii A(8a» iittirutin tXii9«c, it«9an-f{ tco o^ait k«ii rrifi thi Anim yiiiiunc)i. Lib. V.
iStrongule hodieque liquidissimum flammam, ct pumice» magna copb, ex vcriicc, ubi cratertcp
habet, noctes atquc dies, cum frcroitu horrendo, cructat.
12('>
iPALLANZANl'S TRAVELS
various public testimonies, that its continued eruptions cannot have lasted less than two
1 Kindred years.
Merc onr curiosity may naturally be excited by the question, What arc the substances
which, without diminution, have nouribhcd, durinp; such a number of years, and still
continue toiled these fires? I do not perceive that there is any reason to suppose them
different, ironi those which I'urnish fuel to the intermitting volamos, except that their
sourct iippears to be inexhaustible. It is believed, with much reason, that sulphur pro-
iliicts ami continues volcanos ; and wherever these mountains burn, we have indispu«
table pnnilji of its presence. Still more tfl'ectually to explain these conflagrations, petro-
Luin has likewise been called in aid ; and, in fact, it has somelimes been found to issue
in the neighbourhood of a volcano, of which Vesuvius is an example.* The clouds of
thick bhii k smoke, which frequently rise into the air from the mouths of volcanos, and
the unctuosity and sootiness, which are said to be found in the recent scori%, seem like*
wise to be evident indications of some bituminous sublimate.
That Stromboli contains within its deep gulfs and recesses an immense mine of burn-
ing sulphur, we can entertain little doubt, when we consider the streams of smoke, of ex-
traoidinar}- whiteness (a colour which constantly accompanies sulphureous fumes) that
rise on the west side of the island, and the smell of sulphur, not only perceptible from
them, but from the large cloud of smoke which overhangs the summit of the mountain.
The small pieces of that mineral produced near the apertures whence those fumes arise,
lire likewise another proof. But of the presence of petroleum, and its effects, I have never
perceived the least sign. Besides that no vein of it is found in the island, nor any ever
seen swimming on the sea which surrounds Stromboli, as I was assured by the general
testimony of the inhabitants, the smell of this bitumen is no where sensible, though na-
turally it is very acute. I have frequently visited the sources of petroleum, at Monte
Zibio, in the teiritory of Modcna, and I could always perceive the smell of their pene-
trating vapours, at the distance of several hundred paces before I reached them. I there-
fore conclude, that these vapours must have been much more sensible at S«romboli, as
they would have been much more active, had petroleum actually burned within its gulf.
I have Ukcwise examined, with the greatest attention, the soriae thrown out by the vol-
cano, and while they were very hot ; but I never could perceive that they emitted,
either from their surface, or within their pores and cavities, the least smell of that bitu-
minous substance, or that they any where exhibited any unctuous humidity. As I
knew that the smoke which exhales from burning petroleum is of a blackish hue, I sus-
pected that the thick and dark column of smoke, which arose to the east of the volcano,
might be a sign of its presence ; but, on a nearer approach, I perceived that its darkness
proceeded Irom aqueous vapours which were mixed with it, and which, by my continu-
ing a short time in it, rendered my clothes damp and wet.
Shall we then affirm that the fires of Stromboli receive no kind of aliment from this
l)itumen ? Notwithstanding the obscrviiiions I have stated, I would not venture confi-
dently to deduce such u ctjnclusion ; since it is possible that the petroleum may burn
under the mountain, at so great a depth, that its vapours may not reach to the top, but
may be dispersed and consumed by the lire, and the immense mass of liquefied matter,
which probably extends from the crater to the lowest roots of the island.
But though we should not admit the existence of this oil within the deep recesses of
themountau), I do not perceive but the sulphur alone may be sufficient for the nourish-
• Scrao, Istorlu flcll' Inccndio del Vcsuvio, del 1737.
Vesuvio.
Boltis, Istoria di varj Incendj del Monto
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
127
incnt of the volcano, when its flame is animated by oxygenous gas, the presence of
which, in volcanic abysses, seems undeniable, from the substances they contain proi)er
to generate it, when acted on by the fire. The long duration, without intermission,
therefore, of these conflagrations, may be very sufticiontly explained by the immense
quantities of sulphur, or, to speak more properly, sulphures of iron which we must
necessiirily suppose contained in the bowels of the mountain ; a supposition rendered the
more probublr by the prodigious suljterranean accumulations of this mineral which have
been discovered in various parts of the globe.
CHAPTER XII.
like.
BASlLUZZO,BOTTERO,LISCA-BIANCA, DATTOLO, PANARIA, SALINE.
•*
Basiluzzo, in part, formed of granitous lavas....Its stenlity....Uninhul>itcil....Uuttc'ro and Msca-
Bianca, two rocks, in many places decomposed by acid vapours.. .Siilphunit(.'d liydrugcnoustjas
(hepatic ^as) issues from the sea near these rocks, which still nrobably, co\L'r the remains of fuc...
Dattolo tormed of lavas in a great measure decomposed.. ..Panaria formed of granitous lavas....
This island fertile and inhabited... .Probability that this group of rocks and small islands are the
remains of a vast ancient volcano.... Saline formed by an accumulation of currents of lavas....
Course of these currents to the south of the island....'i'hcir various btratiKcation and nature....
Some remains of craters on the summit of this i8land....Resuh of experiments in which natural
granites were exposed to the furnace, to compare thenk with those which, by the action of sul)-
terranean fires, have contributed to the formation of Basiluzzo and Pannria....An extremely strong
fire required for their fusion.... A fire equally strong required for the re-fusion of these grani-
tous lavas.. ..Consequence which appears naturally to follow from the great violence of the vol-
canic fires required to produce the granitous lavas of these two islands.
THOUGH this chapter will contain an account of several islands, it will l)e very short;
since several of them are rather rocks than islands, and they have all been so carefully
examined by the commendator Dolomieu that little remains for me to add to his obser-
vations. The first five are situated between Lipari and Stromboli, and it is manifest to
occular inspection that they are the work of fire.
Basiluzzo is about two miles in circumference, and is raised some poles above the sur-
face of the sea. On the south side is a narrow bay, which I entered on the morning of
the 7th of October, on my return from Stromboli to Lipari. I went on sho!\ , and,
by a winding path, soon reached the summit, which is a plain of no great extent, and
the only place capable of cultivation, though it produces only a little corn and pulse.
This scanty vegetation is nourished by a thin crust of decomposed lava, under which we
soon discover the solid lava, which, in many situations, is granitous, the quartz, feltspar,
and mica, being very apparent in it ; as has been before observed by the excellent
French naturalist above-mentioned ; and on making the circuit of the island we find
that almost all the remainder of it is composed of similar lavas.
Two little cottages which belong to the proprietors of this ungrateful soil are the only
buildings here. Near them are some ancient ruins, amongst which I found a piece
of red porphyry, spotted with reddish feltspars. I at first imagined it a volcanic pro-
duct, but soon changed my opinion ; since I could not find any specimen of the same
stone on the whole island, and be .use I was convinced, on a more careful examination,
thfit the fragment in question was an ancient Egyptian porphyry, which had been po-
lished by art, and had never been exposed to the action of the fire. I was therefore
i
VVx-
128
SPALLANZANIS TRAVEL:!
I
iiuUuxcl to believe, from the circumstances of the plncc in which I fouiul it, that it had
rithiT miitlc a part of the materials of sotnc of tho^c ruined edifices, or, which seemed
more prohahle, that it had been brought thither by the people who had once inhabited
them.
Uabbits arc the only animals foiuul in Basiluzxo; but these had nearly reduced to
despair the lew inhabitants of the island, by the mischief they did to their corn, nil they
at last brouf^ht aj^aiust them an enemy capable of Ibllowing them through their subtcr*
raniai) holi s, 1 nuan the eat.
Trom liasihi7.;',o I proccided to Hottcro and Lisca-Rianca, two rocks abound inp^ In
(nist^ of sulphate of alumiue (alum) and for the most part fornied of lavas whitened,
.ind so dt composed that they are easily reducible to powder. This decomposition has
manilVslly bien tli<' elVect of acid vapours, though of these there is at present no sigti ;
except that near these two rocks we meet with a strong smell of sulphurated hydroj^c-
nousgas, and following it where it is most powerful, are led to a shallow part of the
sea w lu re a great munber of air bubbles rise with rapidity, and as soon us they reach the
surface burst. This gas it is w Inch produces the smell.
'I'he sea could not ha\e been more favourable for the collecting this aeriform fluid ;
since when 1 sailed from Lipari to Stromboli it was stonny and ran high, but on my
return was \)irfecth calm. I secured, therefore, a suflicicnt quantity of it in some
llasks, w hich 1 had taken w ith me in my journey through the two Sicilies, in order to
make some experiments on it whei\ I should arrive at Lipari, th** result of which 1 shall
here, as it seems the proper place, lay before the reader.
This gas, when alighted candle was applied to it, rose in flame, but with scarcely any
detonation. It took lire slowly, and the flame was of a reddish blue. It was therefore
a sulphurated hydrogenous gas, as more evidently appeared from its having deposited
some particles of sulphur in the vessel in which it was fired. The little depth of the
sea at the place from which this gas issued, and its perfect calmness, enabled me to
makeanoUier experiment, by letting down, by means of a small cord, precisely on the
place from which this gas rose, one of those thermometers, which, in consequence of
beingindudcd within several wrappers, slowly receive, and lose as slowly, the tempera,
ture to w hich they may be exposed. After having left one of these immersed under
the water for three quarters of an hour, I found, on drawing it up, that the mercury had
risen to 28 (96^ of Fahrenheit) though in the atmosphere above the surface it only
stood at 20^ (6y of Fahrenheit.) A hot exhalation therefore arose from that part of
the bottom together with the sulphurated hydrogenous gas ; an observation which ren-
ders it probable that a latent fire still remains there. The depth of the water was eleven
feet ; and it was evident that the bottom was a continuation of the rock Bottero.
Scarcely a mile from Lisca-Biunca and Bottero, towards the west, a third rock rises
above the water, named Dattolo, the formation of which is likewise to be ascribed to
lavas, in a great degree decomposed like the former, and some of which have an iron-
red colour. M. Dolomieu says, that a spring of boiling water gushes out at the foot of
it ; but all my endeavours to discover this spring were fruitless. The sailors who ma-
naged the boat in w hich 1 was, and who were natives of Stromboli, and, from making
the passage from their island to Lipari, several times in a week, must be acquainted wita
every part of diat sea, and all the rocks it contains, assured me that they had never seen
nor heard of any such spring. I shall not, however, venture to deny its existence, but
am rather willing to beheve, that neither they nor I discovered it from want of attention.
Supposing its realit)', it certainly is a proof that the conflagration under these rocks is not
cinirely exhausted.
in THC TWO SICILim.
U9
PrfM^n fillip^ still from Stroml)')!! tou'.irds F^iparl we next arrive at Panarin, which \h
not a ruck l)iit an islaticl, in circuit ntorc thar) t-ifrht miles, thotif^h it is but little raised
ubovt the Hta. The rock of \vhi(;h it is constriu:tal is here, likewise, volcanic gninitc ;
but us it is ill many piaees siiperfic i illy decomposed, and in others mixed with substan-
ces very easily decomposable, a rich soil is alTorded in various parts of the island, on
which olives, and odicr Iriiit-trces, cidttvuted by many laniiliett resident here, luxuriunUy
flourish.
VVe must therefore ascribe the orij,'in of Uiis }?roun of rocks and islands to subma-
rine confla^^.itions. But are we to conclude that each of them owes its formation to a
particular volcano, or that these rocks and small islands are no other than the remains
«f a very ancient larjj^T island, in a }^reut degree destroyed b^ the powerful ut:tion of the
waves of the sea ? M. Dolomieu is of the latter opinion, in support of which he ad-
duces many plausible arguments, conjecturing^ that this island was the ancient Kuoni-
mos, the seventh of the Lolian isles, which, according to Strabo, lay on the left in sailing
from Lipari to Sicily, which is exactly the situation of the small islands I have describ-
ed. I shall not repeat the reasons by which he supports this conjeciure, but reiersuch
•f my readers as may Ix- desirous of examining them to the author's own work.
Late in the night of the same day I returned to Li|)ari, where 1 had my residence,
and whence, from time to time, I made excursions to the other neighbouring islands.
As the sea was perfectly calm during the whole of thai day, ue could make no use of
our Siiils but were obliged to perform the whole passage b> the assistance of our oars.
So great a calm in that sea, which is usually tempestuous, is extremely rare ; and, indeed,
durmg my whole continuance among these islands, 1 did not witness such another day.
In the morning I embarked for Saline, whi».h is so near to Lipari, that by the aid of
a light easterly wind, 1 arrived there in less than an hour. This island derives its name
of Saline (or the salt pits) from the muriate of soda (sea salt) which is dug on one part
of the shore. It was anciently called Didyme, or the twin, from iis appearing at a dis-
tance bifurcated, though on a nearer approach it is found to be irij'incated, as its sum-
mit terminates in three points. Among all the Eolian islands, this, after /Lipari, is the
largest, since it is more than fdteen miles in circuit. From the examination which I
made of its shores, and the parts of a moderate elevation, 1 ast i rtaiiied that its struc-
ture was an accvimulation oj currents of lavas. Ot these M. Dolomieu has examined
and described several : 1 principally lixed my attention on those which descend from the
south side of the island to ihe sea. It is evidenrthat they have llowed from the summit
of the mountain, and f.illen almost perpendicularly into the sea, alter a course of a mile
or more. But it is, at the same time, e{|ually evident that these currents h.ive flowed
atdiflPerent periods. In many plac .s they are found with deep fissures, though it is dif-
ficult to say, whether these have arscn from the lavas suddenly congealin^% and thence
contracting and opening in many places, or whether the} ha\e been proilueed by the
action of the rain waters or by some other cause. However this may be, these fractures
are a kind of anatomic dissections of the lava, which shew that the upper coat of it lies
upon another, and that upon a third, below which are many others. It is also to be
remarked that these strata are commonly specifically different from each other. We must
therefore conclude, that as many currents of lava have flowed Irom the highest part of
the mountain, to the south, as there are distinct strata ; and it is probable, that were
we able to penetrate to the most internal part of the island, we should find the whole,
or almost the whole of it, of a similar formation.
This certainly is the structure of almost all volcanic mountains. Their beginning is
but small, and proportionate to the quantity of the first eruption ; but as the succeedui|;
VOL. V. s
.;
I ■*.ri-")i-'- '»*'•---'• — — '■■'■ ■
I
li.
.nil
130
SrALLANZAIiri TRAVCLI
cniptionn increase inntimbcr nnd extent, they luiKmcni in size and solidity, till in time
they uc(|nirc coiisidcnibk' (linK'n^ion. In thin ntaiuur, in (act, iin|KMrft to have hccn
produced the iinnicnse bulk of Etna, V'csuviuH, the IsluiidH ot' Lipari, nnd many other
l)urninfr ntonntains. I do not, however, deny that there are some which arc the ufT-
spring oi a s'u\\r\i ertiption, an Monte Niiovo, near To/^uolo, and Monte Hosso, on
the side of Klna.
It appiarsto n»e superfluous to p'lrticnlarise the difTerent qualidcs of the lavas, since
nshaslxen ol)ser\ed l)y M. Dulonjieii, they are (ointnonto other volcanos. I shall
only remark, in pjriural, that I did not liud one which can properly be called simple, as
they all aboinul, more or lens, with leltspar^ and shocrls, and have for U)cir base the |x;«
trosilex, nnd the horn-stone.
No traces, at present, remain of those volcanic fires which have produced Saline,
except the currents of lava, and some vesligcH of ancient craters on the sununitsof the
mount:iiM.
\\ lientrcatiiif^ of Stromboli, we foiuid that the natural rocks, which by their fusion,
p;ave birth to tiic island, were a species of porphuy, having; for their basis either the
petrnsilex or the hoi n- stone. W'v have now sien that the rocks to which Saline owes
Its orip;in are of the same kind. But the Ibrmation of liusiluzzonnd Panaria has been
dilTerent ; the rocks w hich have there been converted into lava by the action of the fire
being jjjranitons ; and it seems probable that the spacious volcano, which it has been
conjectured, once arose in die sea between Stromboli and Lipari, and of which, at pre-
sent, only some small remains exist in Uasiluzzo, Dattolo, and Panaria, derived its ori
j;in from the same stone.
In pursuance of the plan I have prcserilnd to myself of subjecting to our common
fire some natural rocks similar to those Irfim which the Kolian isles have been formed,
I shall here describe the e fleets produced by the lurnace on dilVereni specimens of era-
nite ; and I must add, likewise, that the diflicntty with which, it is well known, granites
are fused in our common fires, was to me a considerable inducement to make tluse ex-
periments.
The furnaces wh.ich arc worked at Pavia, at a certain season of the year, only fuse
common glass, that is, such as is bluwn into small vessels, and is but liiile transparent,
of a yellowish or greenish colour, and usually full of bubbles; but at another season
they will melt fine crystal ghiss, manuiaclured for die same purjjoses, and which is
white, trans[jarent, and much jjurer. The greater part of the volcanic |)roductions
mentioned in this work, as alsv) the iinalogous natinal stones, have melted in the lurnace
ill which common glass is made ; but the sjjecinicns of granite have proved more re-
fractory, and in the same degree of heat have only been rendered friable froi/ the en-
feebled aflinity of their aggregate |)arts ; or, at the utmost, a few of them only have been
found covered with a thin vitreous varinsh. I was therefore obliged to have recourse
to the furnace in which the er\ stal glass is elaborated, when the heat was nearly 871 de-
greesof Wedgwood's pyrometer, or, according to the observations of Mr. Wedgwood,
only 2j degrees less than the welding heat of iron. The following are the re suits afford-
ed by sevf-ral species of granite, alter having been continued in this heat during forty-
eight hours.
I. (iranite of Mount Baveno, in the Milanese. This granite, which forms a great
part (jf the materials of the j)rincipal public and private edifices in Milan, Pavia, and
other towns in Austrian Lombardy, has for its constituent principles, quartz, mica, and
feltspar. Th'. re are two varieties of it ; one, in which the leltspar is white, and the
other, in wliich itis of a nioreorlessdeepflcshcolemr.
IN THE TWO 3I(:|LU«.
l.il
*riu' lire chiinj^rd till' mic i, aiul pr-Hluccd a lu'^inninn^ riisioii in both the vnrlct'n-s of
fcltHinir, uhicli ;il)()itn(K(t witlniiicroHCopicbubhk's, vvitliout hnwi vcTactiti^iiHa t^ux to
thf ijimrtz, uliich, Ciilciiiin;]^, acqiiirc'.l u u hitcncHH, without, however, loNini^its vitivoub
nature, imtl thidi^^rti of triinspiircncy it posscssscd. The sharp ii'.i}j;lcj» and nrojcctionsj,
il'thcy arr liltspathfjsc, btcoiiu' I)hi'itid at^d round; and the rraj^incnts, if ilicre arc
untrc thai\ oiir, adhcp" in coiiscriiK iicc of ti\c slijj;ht l\ision of tlie i'cltspar, hul ihcy
never ituorporatc into oMv luasH within the iinitibk; on the contrary, they become cx-
trcnuly rriablc.
II. Mount Bavcno likcwiHC prodnces r. p^ranitc which may be considered asndiflcrcnt
Hpicies Ironi that now described, and A>achi»e(|nally used in l)nildin^>i. It is schistous,
and easily separates into hirf^c Hakes, 'i'hc t^ticu, which is ut' a shinittfi; black, instead
of beiii}^ dispersed within it in separates scales, e:< tends in broad lea Vf:i, placed one over
the other; and the quartz and teltspar urc Irecinently distributed in fiakeii.
This granite loses its sr^lidity iu the (ire, without I'usiun; but the mica and I'eltspur
shew evident si(^ns that they have been softened.
III. (iranites of the Italian Apennines, rhouglm considerable |>:jit of the Alps which
burronnd Italy ubound with these rocks of the fust formation, they arc very r.iix in the
Apennines, which are principally formed of calcareous stone, sand, land stones, and stea-
tites. In the various excursions which I have n^idc todiirercni parts of tluiM, I have
rirely found this stone, and never but i very small <iuaniitiesand detaclu'd |tleces, with-
out being able to discover whence tluy came. i\x the spring of the year 1700, I col-
Jccted some of these scattered pieces in the river Stafor.i, ut the foot of a hill, a tew milcH
from the town of V^oghera. 'Ihey were of three species: the following arc thedistin-
guisliing properties of the first.
Its constituent principles are four: the quartz, of the colour of water, scattered in
small but numerous pieces; the black rnn:a, in I'vw and extremely minute flakes; the
feltspar, rather abundant, and of the colour of honey ; and very small shoerls, included
within the feltspar.
The pieces, except they adhered together, retained, when they came out of the fire,
the same figure they hud before, though the feltsjnirs were a little, and the shoerls en-
tirtly fused.
The second of these granites, w Uh respect to its component principles, is similar to
the common, consisting of mica, feltspar, and quartz ; but it is one of the hardest and
most beautiful that 1 have seen, and takvS a vry elegant polish,
In the fire the quartz becomes almost pul\trulent, the feltspar assumes a slightly
enamelled surface, and the fusion of the l)lack r.iica covcjs the pieces with a thin coating
which has an unctuous appearance.
The third granite has for its component princi)>5es !-emi-transparent quartz in small
and rare grains, and feltspar in large and numerous particles.
In the furnace the quartz becomes friable, but in the felispar we only perceive signs
that it is softened.
IV. In chap. XI, I have mentioned an Egyptian porphyry which was exposed to the
fire. 1 shall now add that this stone, from porph) ritic that it was, became in many
places granitous. In consequence, therefore, of lorcible separ.tion, or inseiisilvle ahera-
tion, the mass of porphyry may be lost, and succet ded by the granite, composed of
shoerls, abundant fehspars, and argillaceous p. nicies.
In the furnace, this granite im^crfecdy fui,<^ into an ebullient scoriaceous enamel.
V. This granite, as it contains sulphun; oi iron, and red sulphurated oxyde of mar-
cury (cinnabar) merits a particu'ar description. Ir lorms a mountain in the district of
"Felire, in the Venetian territory ; to the east of which lies the Valle Alta, to the west
s 2
I
— *>^
132
SPALLANZANI^S TRAVELS
the Acqua Pezza, to the south the Bosco delle Monache, and *o the north Vallone.
Some years past, this rock was dug into, and perhaps is still ; not to employ it in build*
ing, but to extract the mercury with which it is impregnated, and of which it furnishes
fifteen parts out of a hundred. This interesting information I received from Signor
Francesco Antonio Tavelli, student of natural history, under whose directions these
excavations were undertaken, in the year 1786. He furnished me with several fine
specimens of this rock, which I immediately perceived to be granite. Its component
pans arc quartz, in crystallized grains; fchspar, in lamellar, semi-transparent, whitish
scu. 's ; and steatites. The latter docs not form a paste, or common cement, which con-
glutinates the quartz and feltspar but is distributed in such a manner, that these three con-
stituent parts adhere together solely by the force of attraction. The steatites is soft and
schistous, and of a d: Kk green colour. This is the only part of the granite to which the
sulpiiur has peu'^rated-. to free it from which, it is necessarv to break it into small
pieces. The sulphur, therefore, hns sometimes mineralized the mercury and sometimes
th'; iron. Sonic parts, however, of seven or ten lines,, and frequently even an inch and
a half, or two inches, in thickness, are of a lively red, though the steatites has lost its
peculiar texture; uid these parts, as they abound most with mercury, are the heaviest.
TJjcrcst, on th^ contrary, are lighter, as they contain a less quantity of this metal; and
hence, likewise, thi-ir colour is of deeper or paler red. In the midst however of this di-
versity of tints, the feltspar and quartz seem to have been impenetrable by the sulphur,
and, ni the reddest places, still preserve their natural colours .^nd respective degrees of
transparency. But in other parts of the steatites, the sulphur has mineralized the iron,
producing sulphure of iron. This is of a brassy yell'' tv, and sufliciently soft to decom-
pose in the air, efflorescing, and emitting sulphate of iron (vitriol of iron.) About four
years ago, I received from Signor Tavelli at Venice some pieces containing this sul-
phate, which I p«it into a box ; and a few months after found them to be broken, and
covered uith a yellowish efflorescence. When touched with the point of the ton^e
they occasioned a strong astringent taste, from the presence of this sulphate (vitnol)
which, in fact, is likewise procured from that rock.
When this granite came out of the furnace, the steatites and the feltspar were blend-
ed into one porous scorije, but the quartous grain remained unfused.
VI. The experiments on Numbers IV, and V, are, however, less to the purpose,
since, if we should compare, by the means of our common fires, the granites which are
found fused at Basiluzzo and Panatia, the constituent parts of which are feltspar, mica,
and quartz, and the natural granites'; the latter must necessarily be found to consist of
the same principles. I have already, as has \Seep seen, made the proof with several, nor
did I neglect to do the same with five other species, which I do not describe that I may
not tire the reader. I shall only say, in general, that the quartz was always infusible ;
the mica, in two instances, melted ; and the feltspar, every time, gave signs of a begin-
ning liquefaction ; which occasioned the pieces in the crucible to adhere together, but
without forming a consolidated whole, as the effect of complete fusions.
VII. As. M. Dolomieu has remarked that the Eolian isles have a part of their base of
granite, I endeavoured to discover from what places it might derive its origin ; and,
afier several laborious researches among the mountains of Sicily, concluded that it
proceeded from rocks of the same siiecies, extenrlmg to the mountains of Capo di Me-
lazzo, which are in part formed of granite and have likewise their direction towards this
island.
In my passage from Lipari to Messina (a distance of about sixty miles) I made some
stay purposely at this cape, which lies about the midway, judging it to be of importance
to examine the nature of the place ; and I, in iact, found there granite.
1 1
iN THE TWO SICILIES.
las'
Vallone.
in butld>
furnishes
n Siffnor
ans tnese
reral fine
miponent
, whitish
liich con-
hree con-
s soft and
which the
nto small
ometimes
inch and
las lost its
i heaviest.
tetal; and
of this di-
: sulphur,
legrecs of
Ithe iron,
;o decom-
ibout four
this sul-
Liken, and
he tone^e
te (vitriol)
£re blend-
; purpose,
which are
>par, mica,
consist of
everal, nor
that I may
inl'usible ;
>f a begin*
ether, but
eir base of
igin; and,
led that it
po di Me-
wards this
nade some
n^rtance
Mica, sometimc'8 black, and sometimes of a silver colour ; blucish, and sometimes
milk-white quartz; and reddish or whitish fcltspar, arc the three component parts of this
granite, sometimes distributed nearly emially, and sometimes in very unequal portions.
Sometimes, thougli ntrely, the mica is hexagonal; and the fcltspar thews a beginning
crystallizatior.
This granite is not found in strata, but large masses, which form a considerable part
of Cape Mclazzo and its environs, and in many places extend cjuite to the sea. Here,
likewise, we discover, under the water, the ruins of a very ancient edifice, built of this
stone.
As, therefore, it appeared extremely probf ble that this granite was the same with that
of which Panaria and others of the Lipari islands are composed, it was more particularly
requisite that the same experiment should be made on it in the furnace, which had been
made on the other species ; and since the proportions of its three elementary parts varied
in it, I took five varieties, and placed small pieces of each in separate crucibles.
The result was, that the mica became more fragile, the fehspar exhibited some signs
of fusion, and the quartz lost its transparency and became full of flaws. The pieces,
however, all retained their original form.
VIII. In Panaria, and some parts of Basiluzzo, are found pieces of granite, in which
the fire appears not to have caused the least alteration ; and yet there is every reason to
believe that they have been thrown out of the mouths of volcanos, though they ai-c still
in the natural state in which they are found in the bowels of the earth. This granite in
its three constituent principles, and tiie qualilies of each of them, extremely resembles
that of Melazzo. It likewise resembles it in its resistance to tlie fire, as only some traces
of fusion in the feltspars &^e observable.
IX. Lastly, I made some experiments on certain specimens of granitous lavas, which
have formed currents at Panu.*ia and Basiluzzo; but the result was not more successful
than with the other granites: they entirely resisted the fire, except that the fcltspar was in
some places thinly covered with a kind of enamel varnisli. This was one of the very
lew lavas which was not fusible in the glass furnace.
These facts sufficiently prove that these granites, such at least as are composed of
quartz, feltspar, and mica, are infusible in a heat of 87^ degrees of the pyrometer of
Wedgwood, though continued in it for forty-eight hours ; a heat which, as has been said,
is only 2^ degrees below that in which iron begins to fuse, which is at 90 degrees of the
same pyrometer. I determined, therefore, to expose these stones to that degree of heat,
or even a greater, having recourse to a wind-furnac^in which iron is completely melted.
In this, in less than an hour, a fusion took place which was perfect or little less in the
feltspars, ?nd beginning and sometiuies complete in the miba; but the quartz shewed no
signs of liquefaction. When, therefore, the quantity of the feltspar was greater than
that of the two other component parts, the pieces in the crucible formed one singi/5
mass, with a smooth surface, either uneven, concave, or convex, in the same manner as
in the fusion of lavas. The mass, however, was not homogeneous. The feltspar, what-
ever was its colour, became of a milky whiteness, extremely smooth and shining, and
considerably harder. It is remarkable that the mica which, in some granites, was oi a
silver whiteness, and in others of a gold colour, is changed in consequence of its fusion
to a deep black.*
•lii.
• I shall here add a remark, which I had intended to make in the introduction to this work, bnt
which will not be improperly placed here. As in these fusions I make use of crucibles of clay, it may
be objected to me, that I am not certain whether the substances on which I made my experiments
were fusible in themselves, or inconsequence of their combination with the clay of the crucible. But
* ■■ .
!i
^i
. « „».^i.,... ^...rtt ..■''•
134
ai'ALLANZANl'a TRAVELS
Tiiese experiments when compared and considered must lead us to conclude that the
fusion of jrranites requires a very violent heat; and with these experiments likewise
agree those made on stones of the" same kind by MM. D'Areet, Gerhard, and Saussurc.
I have said in general, since I do not deny that, in a less intense fire, the fusion of the
feltspar may be obtained, in some species of granite, which may draw after it that of the
quartz.* Though in the almost endless varieties which I fused and have described iu
this work, the feltspars in general were refractory; yet they sometimes easily melted in
the furnace used at Pavia for the manufacfrc of common glass, ihe heat of which, us
has been said, is much less than that employed in making crystal glass. This has been
proved in the feltspars of the lavas of Ischia, which, whether mechanics'iy united to
other substances, or smglc, completely fuse.f The facility with which some few felt-
spars melt, and the refractoriness of others I have found to proceed froni the different
quantity of silex they contain combined with other earths, which is small in the former,
and very abundant in the latter. If therefore a granite which has for its base the felt-
spar contain but a small portion of silex, there is no doubt but its fusion may be obtained
with a moderate heat. It is, however, certain, from the experiments above adduced,
that completely to fuse the feltspar in the granite of Cape Melazzo, and in the detached
pieces of a similar kind found at Panaria and Basiluzzo, as also that which constitutes
the basis of the lavas of these two islands, not to mention other species which have been
enumerated, a very strong heat is necessarj', and equal to that required to melt iron.
It hence appears to be sufficiently proved that the volcanic fires which have produced
Basiluzzo, Panaria, and the other neighbouring islands, must have been extremely vio-
lent; the importance of which deduction will more distinctly appear when we come to
consider the question relative to the activity of volcanic fires in general.
I answer, in the first place, that this combination rarely happened ; and that when it did, it was too con-
spicuous not to be perceived, as the crucible was more or less corroded. Secondly, that I did not
form my judgment of the fusibility of the substances I examined, from the parts of them in contact
with the crucible or at a little distance from its sides; but from those near the middle, where, from
the distance, this combination could not have place, as the circular mouth of the crucibles I used was
two inches in diameter. When, therefore, I speak of the fusion of any product, I consider myself as
perfectly certain that the clay of the crucible had no part in it.
* Morveau, in a letter to the Comte de Uufl'on, writes, that two pieces of different kinds of granite,
being placed separately in the crucible, in less than two hours mekcd into a homogeneous glass (Buf-
fon Miner, t. i. in. 12.) but he neither specifies the constituent parts of the two granites, nor the de-
gree of heat necessary to fuse them.
t Sec chap. V. near the end. •"
f
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
135
CHAPTER XIII.
VULCANO.
I
Different parts of this island distinctly visible from the summit of the Monte della Gu&rdta, in
Lipari....Shore of the island entirely formed of volcanic productions. Vulcanello, a small isl-
and, once separated from Vulcano, but long since united to it by an eruption....Two singular
lavas of Vulcanello.. ..Its cruter....Surrounded by sulphureous fumes and hot exhalations....
Lumps of sulphur found in the earth through which these fumes pass....Grotto celebrated for a
medicinal water which it contains, and other peculiarities... .Summit of the mountain scattered
over with vitreous lavas, pumices, and glasses. The transition of the pumice into glass distinct-
ly observable.... Hot sulphureous exhalations on the side of the mountain which has the figure
of a truncated cone....The stones found there, whitened and decomposed....Other similar fumes
higher up the mountain....Subterranean noise heard there ; with a shaking of the earth when
struck with the foot.. ..Sulphur formerly extracted at Vulcano by the Liparese, and purified on
these heights....This profitable labour now abandoned, and why.... New sulphur re-produced
where it had been dug up....The larger crater of Vulcano situated at the summit of the truncat-
ed cone....De8cent of the author into the crater.... Its interior described....Subterranean noise
heard at the bottom of the crater....Wind which blows at the bottom generated by sulphurated
hydrogenous gas.... Extreme heat of the bottom... .A kind of hill in the middle of it exhaling a
quantity of vapours, and incrusted with various minerals....Reverberated sound produced in it
by the falling of a stone.. ..Gulf immediatelv under it in which a strong tire burns.... Blueish sul-
nnureous flames seen by night rising from t:)is bottom.... A cavern of considerable size hollowed
in the sides of the crater, which descends to the bottom.... Objects most deserving notice in this
cavem....Glasses and pumices of tl^^ \-())cunic bottom decomposed by sulphureous acid3....Pris-
ma'tic or basaltiform lavas, which vt- their origin from fire, discovered within it.... Erroneous
opinion of M. Sage that the detompc. n '>r the lavas, and other vokani< productions, is to be
ascribed to the muriatic acid....Demoiisu itive proof that these dccon' positions are the effect of
sulphureous acid vapours.... Incidental notice ot another error of that chemist, relative to the
Grotta del Cane, near the lake Agnano.
AS from the top of a lofty tower which overlooks a spacious .-xid noble city, we com-
mand a perfect view of the latter, its circuit and extent, its lolty aiid sumptuous palaces,
and its numerous edifices ; in like manner, from the summit of the Monte della Guarda,
one of the highest ihountains in the island of Lipari, wc contemplate with astonishment
the circumference, the massy body, and the various distinct parts of the neighbouring
Vulcano.
To this mountain I, therefore, repaired, expressly to t:ike a comprehensive view of
the island previous to my visiting it ; in which, besidtb a»c course and inclination of its
rocks and cliffs, its craters are clearly perceivable, and it may be distinctly seen that the
form of the larger is that of a truncated cone. The white fumes whicli ascend from it
are likewise very visible by day, while by night the atmosphere above the crater assumes
an obscure redness. Here too, we may most distinctly perceive the junction of Vulcano
to Vulcanello; which latter, as is well known, was anciently an island separated from
Vulcano by a narrow arm of the sea, that has since jieen filled ;ip with earth by a violent
eruption. The new land which has joined the islands may be very clearly seen, and ap-
pears to be formed of a sterile sand. The two small havens at its extremities, one of
which is called the eastern, and the otiier the western, are likewise distinctly visible.
'■iyibl^v
■'«l>>
.■-/^3.1!»I. J-^ik-W; ^iiVi,-: n<z,.jL-'
136
SPALLANZANI'S TRAVELS
Such was the anticipated pleasure afforded me by this mountain, which wa» after-
wards still more increased, and accompanied with still greater instruction when I coasted
the island in a boat. Its shore is about eleven miles in circuit, and every where presents
to the eye the truces of fire, in the remains of streams of lava, enamels, vhrifications,
puzzolaniis, and pumices.
Vulcanello has long made a part of Vulcano, but is still perfectly distinguishable
from it by the interposed land. It has the form of a scalene triangle, uvo "ides of
which sink abruptly into the sea, and merit examination more than any othck parts of
the shore. They consist of many strata of lava, several feet high, and piled one above
the other. When they flowed, they must certainly have extended farther into the
water ; but they have been broken, gradually, by the violence of the waves ; and their
fractures now form a kind of wall of a great height, which descends perpendicularly
into the sea. As the water here is shallow, the bottom may be seen sc&ttered over
with large pieces of these lavas ; and the wall, on a near approach, presents to the eye
a number of currents of lava, which have flowed at different times, and difllr in theii
cuiour, component parts, and consistence.
The appearance of these currents of lava, which have flowed one over the other, re-
minded me of what I had observed several years ago, in the glaciers of Switzerland ;
where some parts of the snowy coating being broken, the different strata of snow,
which had fallen at different times, are distinctly discernible by the dilercnce of the
colour.
As the greater part of these lavas differ very litde from those of other volcanos, I shall
not give a description of any of them except two only, which appear to mc not to be
common.
The first lies buried in the midst of the others, and would, therefore, only become
visible by cutting them away, did not the superincumbent lavas, which are in several
places broken, disco\ cr it in those fractures. In its superficial parts it is a true enamel,
very black and shining, entirely opaque, which easily crumbles, and in which are incor-
porated many shoerlaceous and feltspathose scales. This enamel contains tumors marked
with stripes and large threads, which appear every where in it, but always run in the
'same direction, which is that of the course of the lava, or from the mountain to the sea.
The substance of these stripes and threads is likewise enamel. Their presence and di-
rection sufficiently indicate that the enamel when it flowed and entered the sea was ra«
ther of a soft consistence than fluid.
I at first Imagined that, as the other contiguous lavas were each of one sub^ance
through the whole of their depth, it must be the same with this enamel, as far as it
formed a distinct current, as we shall see in the enamels of Lipari ; but, on breaking
some of the larger pieces, I found that this was not the fiict. The enamel is only the
superficial part, or crust, of a lava many feet deep, which crust, where it is thinnest, is
scarcely more than a line in depth, but where thickest frequently more than two inches.
It cannot, however, in any manner be considered as a later product, or as having flowed
after the lava and attached itself on it ; this cr» st of enamel is certainly a true continua-
tion of the lava itself, as I have, in my opinion, satisfactorily asc^^.ta'ned by repeated
and careful examinations. The enamel, therefore, after having formed this crust of
greater or less thickness, suddenly lost its distinctive characters, ami changed into a lava
of a reddish gray colour, dry, rough to the touch, earthy, emitting an argillaceous odour,
and haviQg for its base the horn-stone, without losing its scales of shoerls and feltspars.
We must hence conclude that the current was more affected by the fire on its surface
than in its internal parts ; for I know no other mode of explaining this phenomenon.
s; _^
i
IN THE TWO ^1^'ILJl:,.
i.<y
From this enamel and lava, when exposed to the furnace, results a .similar cnamcJ ;
that is to say, one of a dark gray colour, very hard and compact ; with u fusion of the
BJioerls, and a semi fusion of the fcltspars.
Another product with a horn-stone base, of a very sinj^ular (juality, and which I do
not remember to have seen any where else in my volcanic travels, ii» found on one of the
sides of Vulcanello that descend perpendicularly into the sea, and, having been broken
in different places by the violence of the waves, present upon the shore, and within the
water, a large heap of Ibgments of a globular form. At the first view it might be taken
for a tufa. It is rather light tha» heavy, may be crumiiled to powder between the
finger and thumb, imbibes water, with which it is in a few moments saturated, with a
kind of hissing sound, and emits an argillaceous odour. We know that similar pro-
perties are usually found in volcanic tufas : but these have an earthy grain, whereas the
present substance rather inclines to the vitreous. Besides, when the shoerls it contains,
which are innumerable, are examined, they are found to be distributed equally as they
usually are in lavas — a distribution never met with in tufas, in which the shoerls that arc
sometimes found in them are scattered confusef"y and at random. Hence as they are
extraneous bodies, they are easily detached front the tufaceous mass ; but this is not
the case with the product in question, which, consequently, we must consider as a true
lava.
But to what are we to attribute its softness ? Perhaps it has been considerably c'langed
on the surface by sulphureous-acid vapours, by length of time, or some other imknown
cause. Such, at least, was the first idea which presented itself to my mind, but which
I found inadequate, both because in that place no sulphureous fumes exhale, nor arc
there any indications that any ever have exhaled ; and, because, having procured this
lava to be dug up from the depth of five feet, I found it, there, extremely soft as
well as at the surface. I am rather of opinion that this lava is the result of the combin-
ed effect of fire and water ; as examples are not wanting, in vbleanized countries, of
similar combinations. I mean that the lava, while flowing, was met and penetrated
by a stream of water, that had gushed from some aperture of the volcano, by which it
was suddenly cooled, and lost that coherence which is usually the property of lavas. I
found this opinion on several observations. I perceive that the lava has a number of
cracks and fissures, such as are usual in stony substances which, while in a state of
fusion, have come into contact with water. I observe that the shoerls, which in other
lavas have the hardness of glass, are in this so friable that they may be scratched with
the nail ; and as such appearances are not usually the effects of volcanic fire alone, I know
not to what to ascribe them but to the action of water ; since vitreous substances in a
state of fusion are affected in precisely the same manner by contact with that fluid.
The ebullient though hard enamel, whicli is the result of this lava in the furnace, is
'of a fine deep black ; the slioerl:: are melted ; and it is worthy remark that in it we dis-
cover some small fliUces of white feltspar which before were not disceriible in the lava
on account of its cinereous colour.
The two lavas 1 have described, as likewise others of which I have omitted the des-
cription on account of their being common, and which together form the two sides of
Vulcanello, appear by their direction all to have proceeded from the crater, which is
about two hundred paces distant from the sea ; and which still retains its natural figure
of an inverted tunnel, except that the bottom is covered to some height by earth which
has been carried down by the rains from the internal sides. These sides are formed of
pulverised clay and sand, and are marked with deep furrows caused by the descent of
VOL. V. .... T -
-«<
iiii-^-
138
UPALLANEANl's TRAVELK
! •
the rain water. The circinnfurcncc of the bottom of the crater, judging by the eye, can-
not at the utmost be more than sc\ eiity, but that of the top is about the sixth of a mile.
Its depth is scarcely eighty feet. The crater oji the outside is surrounded with rocks of
hiva, probably the eonse(iuences of an eruption. It is evident that, as more earth is con-
tinually falling into it, it must nt last be filled up ; and as the external sides of it arc
ill-formed, there is no doubt but that one day every trace of it must be lost. VVe hence
perceive how many volcanised countries may appear, and in fact do appear, to be desti-
tute of craters ; these not ha\ ing been able to resist .he injuries of tinie.
Hert "rasitthat I began to perceive the indications of the subterranean burning fur-
nace ; for round the crater of Vulcanello many streams of a white smoke arise ; and it
is only necessary to suike the gromul with the foot to produce more. They are very hot,
as are likewise the apertures through which they issue, and which, in the night, from
time to time, emit a feeble flame. The ground, which fumes at the surface, within,
contains crusts of sulphur, which arc most abundant in the places where the fumes ex-
hale most copiously. But we shall soon have occasion to treat more at length of the
sulphur of this island.
From Vulcanello I proceeded to a grotto which has obtained some celebrity on ac-
count of a mineral water it contains, and is at the distance of about a mile from the
western haven. To reach this water it is necessary to descend into the grotto, the en-
trance of which is so narrow, that you arc forced to stoop very much, and almost creep
on the hands and knees. It is a moderately large cavern, incrusted round with sulphate
of alumine (alum) muriate of ammoniac (sal ammoniac) and sulphur. These mine-
rals are found to be very warm, as likewise is the atmospheric air in this place, on
account of the heat of which, the strong sulphureous smell, and the difficulty of respira-
tion, it is impossible to remain long in the grotto, which you are obliged to leave froni
time to time to breathe fresh air. At the bottom is a small pool of very warm water,
which is esteemed by the Lipurcse to be efficacious in many disorders. The abbatc
Gactano Trovatini, a learned physician of Lipari, has published an analysis of this
water.* I shall not therefore enter into a minute account of it, which would be super-
fluous, but shall only remark that, besides the sulphureous odour it emits, it contains
abundantly the muriate of ammoniac (sal ammoniac) and still more of the muriate of
soda (sea-salt;) which latter salt I imagine it derives from a communication with a
neighbouring sea, with which it appeared to me on a level. Though its temperature is
not higher than 80 degrees, it continually appears to boil, from the great number of air-
bubbles that rise from the bottom to the surface, which they entirely cover. This wa-
ter, in fact, so much abounds M'ith this aeriform fluid (which I found to be carbonic
acid gas) that when shaken in the slightest manner a prodigious quantity of bubbles
arise. I likewise observed, relative to the same object, that if a stone be let fall into
this water, as it sinks, a vast quantity of these bubbles will ascend, and will continue
to rush to the surface several minutes after it has reached the bottom. The continual
emission of so much carbonic acid, which doubtless concurs to render the air in the ca-
vern unfit for respiration, produces within the grotto a confused noise, which may be
heard likewise without.
M. Dolomieu, in his account of this subterraneous place, observes that a considera-
ble quantity of smoke issued from it. This, when I was there, 1 could not perceive ;
either because it had opened to itself another passage, or that the cause by which it wa&
produced has ceased : changes not unfrequent in volcanic countries. .^r
' Dissertazione chimico-iisica suU' suidlisi dell' acqua minerale dell' Isola di Vulcano. Napoli 1786-
VK^.i,.;t,- .,
•«'•' ''-
IK THE TWO SICILIES.
i:>!>
can .
I mile.
)cks ot
is coii-
it are
hence
desti-
To this place the ascent of the island is Rmdiial ; but the remainder of the way whicli
leads to the hifj^hest crater of V'ulcano is extremely rugged and difllictrit ; as it hcs over
a long mile of continued heaps of lavas, vitrifications, and pumices. The fatigue, hou
ever, is alleviated by the pleasure which the instructive examination of these productions
aflbrds. Some of the vitrifications found among the lavas clearly manifest, that they
were originally pimiiccs, which, by a more intense heat, have passed into the nature of
complete glass. The breaking of some of then» proves this beyond the possibility of a
doubt. We then find one part a common pumice ; I mean resembling threads of silk,
light, extremely friable, floating on water, and of a very white colour. Another part we
lind to be vitreous, of a diflerent texture, less filamentous, less light, less white, and less
friable. Still farther begin to appear long veins or threads of glass, ^v hi jh continually
increase in thickness; and at last in another part of the piece, multiply and consolidate
into a mass completely glass. This glass is semi-transparent, of a colour between gra}
and black, and so hard as to give sparks with steel.
It is worthy of remark that some of the black shoerk, and white fcltspars, incorporated
in the pumice, are preserved entire in this glass.
The furnace melts neither of these ; though it completely fuses the glass, which is
chapi'ed into an extremely porous enamel.
Mixed with these curious combinations of glass and pumice arc found true glasses,
and true pumices, as also a variety of lavas, which having lost in a considerable degree,
the texture of their primitive rocks, have acc|uired a vitreous appearance. They are ex-
tremely cor'pact, give sparks with steel, are of a blackish or dark blue colour, and aic
not wanting in fehspars and shoerls. Some of them will move the magnetic needle at
the distance of three quarters of a Ime. One of them has become a volcanic breccia, as
it contains within it fragments of o.hcr lavas which it enveloped while in a state of fusion.
These fragments are of a coarse grain, and a spongy texture, and when minutely examin-
ed are found to derive their origin from the horn-stone, while that of the including lava
is from the petrosilex. The same difference eonti!uie3 even in the furnace ; the frag-
ments becoming scoriaceous, and the lava a semi-transparent glass.
These glasses, pumices, and lavas, do not form currents, but are found in large masses ;
and it is probable that they were thiown out of the mouth of the volcano in the same
state in which we now see them.
As we proceed up this diflicult ascent, we perceive, near the top of the truncated cone,
five or six streams of smoke, approaching which we find that tach of lem issues from an
aperture incrusted roimd with small crystals of sulphur. If a stick be thrust into them,
and drawn out again soon after, it will appear black, and smoke. The earth is here ex-
tremely hot, every stone is decomposed, and of a white colour ; and if new apertures are
made with a stall' (which may easily be done from the great softness of the ground) new
fumes will immediately issue similar to the other; that is to say, white, very oftensive
from their sulphureous smell, and extremely hot.
Above these fumes there is a plain, of no great extent, which one is, at first, afraid
to venture on, from the subterranean noise heard there, and from the shaking of the
ground when struck with the foot. Here we find other sulphureous fumes, besides
ammoniacal vapours, which, attaching to the decomposed lavas, generate thin crusts of
that salt.
On this plain it was, that, form.erly, stood the furnaces in which the sulphur of Vul-
cano was purified. But this useful labour has been long since abandoned, and even
prohibited, from the supposition that the vapours arising from the purgation of the sul-
phur w(ire prejudicial to the plantations of vines in Lipari. A few years ago, indeed, it
• ' • T 2 ■ ■ ' ■ •
,!
.<ti.--. i *'•''.'
uo
-«I>ALLANZANI » THAVkLi
was again resumed, by the spcciiil |)crmission of his Sicilian majesty ; but was soon
again given up, not because any feur was then entertained that the vines would be in-
jured, which the more judicious of the natives of Lipari are now convinced is a vulgar
error, since they sustaui no damage from the smoke of the crater of Vulcano itself,
though that is beyond all comparison more in quantity than that produced by the puri-
fication of the sulphur: nor was it abandoned because the quantity of sulphur obtained
was too little to repay the trouble and expencc, as the vein is very rich and even inex-
haustible; for wherever the ground about the craters of Vulcano and Vulcanello is but
slightly turned, fine clods of sulphur are found; which arc larger and more numerous
the deeper the earth is dug into. My own observations have in this particular sufli-
eit^ntly confirmed the testimony of the people of Lipari : as I was convinced, in my dif-
ferent visits to the island, that in the very places from which die sulphur had been ex-
iracied, alter a short time it is re-produced.
The real cause why the inhabitants of Lipari no longer continued this work was, that
the ground, which on the surface is more or less warm, grows hotter the deeper it is dug
into, and, at the depth of five or six feet becomes so hot as to be almost insupportable;
to uhicli is to be added the offensive stench of the sulphureous fumes that issue in great
abundance from these excavations. If this mineral was once extracted here to great
advantage, as we are assured by history, it seems certain that these difficulties could not
thin exist.
Continuing my journey towards the south from these forsaken furnaces, and having
mounted a short but steep ascent, a second, but a nuich more spacious plain opened
before me, which was every where sandy, except that a few erratic lavas were thinly scat-
tered over it. Beyond it rose a considerable eminence, which when I had ascejided,
the nobkst spectacle \'uIcano can offer presented itself to my view, 1 mean its crater.
Except that of Etna, I know none more capacious and majestic. It exceeds a mile in
circuit, the mouth is oval, and its greatest diameter is from the south-east to the west*
This mountain externally has the form of a direct cone, and its crater that of a cone in-
verted. The height of tiie internal sides from the bottom to the toj) is more than a
quarter of a mile. From the top, the bottom may be seen, which is flat, and from
many places in it exhale streams of smoke, that rise above the crater and emit a sulphu-
reous odour which may be perceived at a considerable distance.
After having made the circuit of die upper circumference of the crater, I became de-
sirous to enter it, and descend to the bottom, to examine the internal parts ; the southern
side, which is not very steep, appearing to invite to such an examination. I was not
willing however to undertake such an adventure alone, but wished for some one to ac-
company me, who might serve me as a guide, and, I may likewise add, who might keep
up my courage. But my wishes were vain. The four sailors who had worked the boat
which brought me to the island, and had gone with me to the edges of the crater, when
they found 1 entertained thoughts of going down into it, positively refused to follow me,
alleging the evident danger to which I should be exposed, and adducing the example
of 1 know not what traveller, who a few years ago, having descended into this deep gulf,
paid for his temerity by never coming out again. All my entreaties, therefore, and all
offers of reward were fruitless ; and I was obliged to return to Lipari without having been
able to gratify my wish. These sailors were natives of Lipari, nor could I find any of
their countrymen who would hazard accompanying me in making this experiment. So
great is the dread they are inspired with by this volcano, proceeding probably from the
fame of its ancient terrors, and also from some recent eruption, of which we shaU here*
after have occasion to speak.
">' ..*.,
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
I4i
A resolute Calabrian, wiio liuU been banished to Lipari for sonic crime committed at
Naples, was the only one who, with the permission of the Marehtse Chiavclli, the ^q.
vcrnor of that city, and the promise of a larn;e reward, could l)c iiuiuced to j^o ('own
with me into the crater. We descended on the 13ih of ScptemlHr 1788. I have already
said that the sides towards the south-east are not very ateep, and on this side wc there-
fore safely reached the bottom, where I proceeded to make such observations as I
thought of most importance. I here perceived, more distinctly than I could above,
that the crater was a hollow cone rcversi d, but truncated by the bottom on which I
stood. The sides, except in that part w here we descended, ore every where inaccessi-
ble. As they are covered with sand, they are marked with deep furrows which are the
cfft ct of rains.
The bottom on which wc stood, may be about somewhat more than a third of a
Biile in circumference. It is covered with sand, like the sides, and in form an ovaL
I soon perceived that it could not be walked over without danger, and that it was nc>
cessary to use the greatest circumspection in examining it. I have already mentioned
the subterranean noise heard on approaching the crater of Vulcano. Here it may be
aiiid to be a hundred times louder. Under this bottom wc seem to hear a river run-
ning, or rather a conflict of agitated waves which meet, and impetuously clash together.
The ground, likewise, in some places cleaves in cracks, fissures, and apertures, from
which hissing sounds issue resembling Uiose produced by the bellows of a furnace. I
therefore thought there was every reason to conclude, that these sounds are occasioned
by an elastic gas which issues throu^;h those fissures ; and was afterwards perfectly con-
vinced of the truth of this supposition by the following facts ; if the hand be approach-
ed to any of these clefts or apertures, a strong impression is feit of an extremely subtle
invisible fluid; and if a lighted candle be applied to them it will, it is true, be frequent-
ly extinguished by the impetus of the fluid, but sometimes it will set tire to the fluid
itself, producing a flame of a blueish red colour which lasts for several minutes. The
fetid odour which is then perceived convinced me that it is a sulphurated hydro-
genous gas.
The ground at the bottom was so hot that it burned my feet; and I should not long
have been able to endure its heat, had I not from time to time got on some large pieces
of lava which were not so hot. From the extreme heat, and the strong stench of sul-
phur emitted by every part of the bottom, so as to render respiration somewhat diflicult,
I could scarcely go round it, and it was quite impossible to cross it near the middle; at
least it v/ould have been very dangerous to have attempted it. About the mi(fdle of this
bottom arose a circular eminence of about forty-five feet in diameter, from every part of
which a dense vapour sublimes, and the surface is covered with crusts of sulphate of
iron (vitriol of iron) sulphate of alumine (alum) muriate of ammoniac (sal ammoniac)
and sulphur; as I found by collecting and examining some fragments of these crusts
at the edges of the eminence. Its heat is insutferable, and on pressing the edge a\ ith my
feet I perceived it shake very sensibly, as if I had trod on a floor of boards which yield-
ed and sprung up again under me. On letting fall a large piece of luva frojn the height
of my body, a subterraneous echoing sound was heard, which continued some seconds;
and this hapix:ned on whatever part of the bottom the piece of lava was let lall, but the
sound was loudest near the eminence in the middle. These circumstances suflicicntly
proved that, wliile on this bottom, I walked over a gulf from which I was only separa-
ted by a flooring of volcanic matters of inconsiderable thickness, and that in this gulf the
fires of the volcano still continued active, of which the subterraneous noise, the fumes,
vapours, and extreme heat were evident indications.
Ui
SPALLANZANI S TRAVELti
Another prool', in confirmation of this, is furnished by an observntinn I made at
other times by ni^ht, for I was not contented u ith a single visit. This is, that, when
it was durk, several bliieish flames might be seen to rise from the bottom, to the
height of half a foot, a foot, and sometimes higher. It is to be remarked, that those
which ascended from the eminence before mentioned were more numerous atid rose
higher; and that besides those which issued spontaneously, it was in my power to pro-
duce new ones, by making small excavations in the groinid. The strong disgusting
sulphureous oilour which ill these flames emitted convinced me, that they were the
tfl'ect of the buiphur itsell, which still conliniied slowly to burn below, in a state of
fusion.
But the object most 'jurious and most interesting to a naturalist is a grotto, on the
west side of this bottom, which, from the variety of things it contaii\s, merits to be de-
scribed at some length. It is an excavation in the sides of the crater a hundred and ten
iiet in height, two hundred and fifty in breadth, and ends at the bottom in a pit thirty
feet in circumference. From this pit continually arises a column of whitish smoke,
which alone etpials in (piantity. or perhaps exceeds, all the fumes that arise from the
bottom of the crater. Its strong and sunbcating sulphureous stench, and its extreme
heat prevent any near approach. A part of this smoke, meeting with no obstacle,
ascends in a direct line, and rises above the mouth of the crater ; out another part of
it; soon after it has issued from the bottom, is obstructed by some stones which j » out
from the sides of the grotto ; and attaching to the lower surface of these, the su phur
>\ hich had been sublimed with the smoke falls down again, and collecting in several
places, forms stalactites of sulphur ; some in the shape of inverted cones, and others
cylindrical. The largest arc three feet in length and two inches thick. On striking
several of them with a stick, I found that this sulphur is extremely pure. Sometimes
it is of a flesh colour, but niore frequently of a fine yellow, brilliant on the surface, and
semi-transparent where the stalactites are thinner; which properties also give value to
the other sulphur that is dug round the crater of Vulcano, and exists likewise at its
bottom; ns I observed that in the fissures from which the sulphureous fumes issue,
it is found consolidated in fragments of various sizes. The stalactical alone, how-
ever, has the cylindrical or conical form, which is produced by the fusion of its
parts, and their descent by gravity; whereas that which is generated under ground
IS usually found in amorphous ma.>es, and sometimes in strangely irregular con-
figurations.
It seems scarcely necessary that I should mention the manner in which sulphur must
be continually formed in this island ; since it is well known that this mineral is not en-
tirely consumed in conflagration, but that a great part of it is sublimed, unchanged in
its substance, which again deposits itself, sometimes crystallized, and sometimes amor-
phous, on any bodies with which it nuiy meet. As it is therefore perpetually burning
in the subterraneous furnace of Vulcano, it continually produces those numerous white
fumes which arise from various places, and those lumps, cylinders and cones of sulphur
which I have before mentioned. 1 he sulphur which is so frequently found in other
burning mountains is generated in the same manner. .?
From the pit within the cavern, uhenc. the cloud of smoke continually issued, a lou-
der noise was heard, than at any other part of the bottom ; and on throwing stones
into it I could not perceive that they struck against any obstacle, as they g:»ve no sound,
but a kind of hissing one occasioned by the resisiance of the air in dieir fall. It appears
probable, that this cavern has an immediate communication with the subjacent furnace
of the volcano.
-b/.^. , ►..u j
!■■■ • 1 t
indc at
when
to the
thoiic
d roHC
to pro-
usting
Tc the
tate of
con-
IK THI TWO IICILIIS.
144
from one of the hides of the cavern, at the height of ci^ht Rti from the l>oitom on
which I stood, is:iucs a small sprinn; of mineral water, which kavtson the difUri nt Iivuh
depositioMH which will merit to he examined. If ue suppose thin w;iter to pnxnd from
the sea, it can only he by evaporation, asthelevelof the sea is very nuiehh)W(r than tin-
place whence it issues. It may possibly <lerivc its origin from rains, which penetrating
to the interior parts of the mountain, and aceumulaiinn in some cavity, luve found a Im
oull t, depositing in diftirent places the heterogeneous sid)stances with which they be-
came impregnated in their passage.
Where this water flows, we find, in the first pliue, hanging stalactites of sulphate of
alumiiie, some of which arc of the thickness often inches, and a foot and a half in length.
On breaking them, they arc found to be a congeries, of barks or rinds, similar to the
couts of onions, as stalactites in fact usually are.
Secondly, these stalactites arc not always composed entirely of sulphate of alumine,
but are mixed with muriate of ammoniac.
Thirdly, the sidphate of alumine, in some places instead of being stnlactical, is crys-
tallized in beautiful stellated groups consisting of very fine silver silky threads.
Fourthly, iKtween the stones where this water issues, we frequently fuid stalactites
of sulphate of iron.
Lastly, on the ground where this water falls, we find a number of hollows filled with
a kind of thick pulpy matter, which is no other than a confused mixture of all these
suits, which, from the partial evaponuion of the water, begin to assume a body and con-
sistence.
The sides of the crater of Vulcano, and the oval plain which forms its bottom, arc
covered with sand, as has been already observed. This sand, however, cannot pro-
perly be so called, since it is a mixture of fragments and small particles of pumices,
lavas and glass; among which are found, principally where the sulphureous fumes arc
sitrongest, entire and large pieces of vitrifications, pumices, and lavas, which well de-
serve the careful and accurate examination of the observing naturalist.
Wc will begin w ith the former of these substances. At the bottom of the crater of
Vulcano we find a glass which is of a lead colour, and not unlike another kind found in
ascending the cone of Vulcano. Many pieces which lie without the fumes arc preserved
unchanged ; but many of those within them exhibit diflerent degrees of alteration.
The first and slightest degree is a thin cinereous coating, which invests the glass, and is
less hard than the internal part. The sulphureous acids, therefore, have only acted on
the sff^face of these pieces. In others they have penetrated deeper, as appears by the
greater thickness of this tender and half pulverous coating. Some are so changed,
that nothing remains of the glass but a small central nucleus; while others have en-
tirely lost even thi.i nucleus, and the whole piece, from being of a lead-colour, hard,
semi-transparent, and smooth, is become of an ash-colour, soft, opaque, and yielding to
the touch. In these, therefore, the glass has undergone a complete decomposition.
It had been discovered, long before I wrote on the subject of volcanos, that sulphu-
•reous acids would decompose lavas ; but I believe I am the first who has observed a simi-
lar decomposition in volcanic glass.
In the same place wc find pieces of various sizes, of a more perfect, harder, and ex-
tremely black glass ; which, likewise, where the sulphureous acids abound, has under-
gone the same changes.
A number of particles of sulphur are frequendy attached to the surface of both these
glasses, and some are also found within their substance, where small fissures have opened
to them an entrance.
l-li
1FALLAN:;AN!'3 TIlAVBLt
t
We will now k\\ u wonl of the inimicci. Thiy do not eliflPcr from tho»r wc meet
with on the declivity \n hicli lc:i(U to tnc Hummit ol tin- nioiintnin, mid wliicli wv obticrvcd
with nn intense heut, ehan^ed into glnss. Yet the»c likewise Miifllrcd more or less alter*
ation from theahove-nK'ntioned ueid». In nonu* their fibroiiH texture was reduced to a
kindofpuUernUnt earth, whieh scarcely retained a Hin^lc original lilament. In others
this textnre was preserved, yet they niij^ht he easily reduced to powder l>y the finfjer.
It now renuiino to treat briefly of certain prismatic or hasaltiform lavas likewise ibnnd
ill iliin volcanic Ixittoiu. In the first place, where the snl|)hnreous acids art; slronjijest, wc
lind hcattired pieces, superficially decomposed, which seem to have heen broken «)ftfroin
lur^i^er cohinms. They have a pentagonal prisinaitc fignre, with unequal bides and
:in<>Us; and the lat|rer pieces urc about nine inches in length by eight in thicknesN.
Their base is a j)etrohilex, which from its having aulfcrcd funion, ih of u very singular
kind.
In the course of this work I have frequently had occasion to speak of lavas with a
p( trosiliceous base, and shall certainly have occasion to speak of them again. They are
all too strongly characterised for their base to be confounded with other stones. '1 hey,
however, carry in them the marks of (ire, in u certain fibrous ap|)earance which they
have, niid which originates from n diminution of the affinity of aggregation when in a
state of fluidity. The petrosilex of which I now s))cak, on the contrary, exhibits no
signs of injury from the fire, though it is certain that it has snfl'ered fusion. It is of
that kind which is somewhat scaly ; has a gniin and hardness little difllrent from that
of silex ; is transparent ot the edges, of a shelly fracture, and of u livid ash colour.
When nulverised it becomes white. The pieces, when* struck together, sound like
flint. This stone contains u few irregular shoerls, of a black colour, and but little
lustre.
After u continuance of forty-eight hours in a furnace of suflicient heat to liquefy the
fine crystal glass, this prismatic lavu with difliculty melts. To obtain a complete fu-
sion, it is necessary to have recourse to a stronger heat ; with which view I used a wind-
furnace. After thirteen minutes, its \^Mme increased almost threefold, from the di<
minished force of aggregation, and tlrcrPthe lava acquired a snowy whiteness. Con-
tinuing the same fire, its dimensions contracted, and it at length produced a white
enamel, moderately hard, and interspersed with microscopic bubbles.
The first time 1 ventured to explore the bottom of the crater of Vulcano, I only
found some fragments of this prismatic lava : but when I repeated my visits, and had
divested myself of the fear I at first felt, and more carefully examined this dreary bot<
tom, 1 was enabled to complete my discovery by ascertaining the origin of these pris..
matic, or, as some may choose to call them, these basaltiform lavas. For, raising my
eyes to that part of the sides of the crater which was over my head, and facing the north-
east, 1 perceived a large stratum of lava, almost perpendicular, divided lengthwise into
complete prisms, some of which were continued with the lava and made one body with
it ; while others were in a great measure detached from it, so that, striking them with a
long and heavy pole, I beat three of them down. I then clearly |)erceived that the pieces
I mentioned above were fragments of entire prisms, since the external characters of
both were precisely the same.
Kach of these prisms, exceeded a foot in length ; but, as far as could be judged by
the eye, other prisms adhering to the mass, which I could not reach, were of much
larger dimensions. The lava which contained them stretched to the ground, but did
not ap|)ear of great extent, as its upper parts and sides were covered with a thick
.sand,
\
■ .i-»"T "•(■ jr-r» t-r *"*'
t-r.r ci'i'"*-.se?:.tt:zsy -^
IM TIIK TWO SICILIIS.
11
The production ot ihcsc bar<alt<lorm lavns, uhiclj, from \\w\r hituation, and their
lonning a whole with the lavn, no otu* nui doubt derive their origin from firr, mny, I
conceive, be thu»exphiincd. In .'onnrr times on cffl.rvf»cence took place in the melted
lava in the crater, whi( h, ;»*"ker having 'juvlled, ;ind |K'rhaps overflowed its edges, slowly
Hunk into the cavity of the crater, from the dimiiuicion of the fire, an'.\ the impellent
clastic substances, while a portion of the tuvi attaching itself to the internal sides, and
hastily cooled by the atmospheric air, contraccd, and divided into rcgtUir parts, such
as are the forms of the hexag r. prisms above-mentioned. Their perfect preservation
;ind freshness arc a clear proof that they arc not of very ancicn* date.
I shall conclude this chapter with a few observations relative to the dcc>(>npositions
which I remarked in various productions both within and around the crater of Vulcano.
These dccompohitions, I have said, were produced by sulphureous acid exhalations. I
have asserted the same of some decomposed lavas in the vicinity of the volcano of Strom-
boli, as also of a great number of those of which Solfatara is principally formed.* And
in general, when tne question is of lavas, the alteration of wJiich consists in being softened
and rendered mild and saponaceous likeargilla, and in a whitening of the parts, I per-
ceive that the greater number of volcanists agree with me in sentiment. I find, how-
ever, that M. ^age is, of a diflercnt opinion, maintaining that such decompositions arc
generally to be ascribed to the action of muriatic acid, wnich is the cause of the greater
part of the alterations that take place in the prmlucts of volcanic eruptions. He at-
tempts to demonstrate this by the experiment of a blick lava which, in his laboratory,
became white and equally deco7:)|)osed with those found in some \ olcanos, by keeping
it in digestion in concentrated muriatic acid. (Jther similar experiments likewise con-
firm him in this opinion.f
That the muriatic acid is capable of producing decompositions in various volcanic
productions analogous to those we frequently observe in the materials of burning moun-
tains, I am the more easily persuaded, siiice, having repeated the experiment of the
French chemist, I have founa it accurate. I placed m two vessels, filled with concen«
trated muriatic acid, some fragiiicnts of two difPrent lavas, the one from Etna, the
other from Vesuvius, both of a colour approaching* black, of the horn-stune base, and
containing a number of black shoerls. Having clo&ely ;:trppcd the vcssel«, I left them
for a month ; at the end of which time the lavns were become of a yellowish cinereous co-
lour, and, having washed away the muriatic acid v/lth which they were impregnated
with distilled water, they lost the yellowish tincture, and became entirely of the cinereous
colour. Some of them had likewise become in some degree friable, though before they
were hard. The decomposition had in fact penetrated more or less to their mternal parts,
though the shoerls remained uiudtered both in texture and colour.
This author however admits, in another place, that the sulphuric acid is likewise ca-
pable of producing the same eftect, which I also exptrimentally ascertained on the two
lavas above mentioned.^ It is in like manner known that the sulphuric acid possesses
* See chap. II. and chap. XI. t Elemens ilc Mincralogic.
4 Notwithstanding that, at the end of a month, the muriatic and suli^bunc uctdH had been equally
cflicucious in producing alteration in the two lavas, yet, uO.cr u longer time, the muriatic appeared to be
more powerful than the sulphuric. At the end of seven ntonths and a half, on examining the lavas
which had remained in the same situation in the two acids, I found that the muriatic acid had decompos-
ed them more than the sulphuric. Besides that they had acquired a whiteness almostcqual to that of
snow, they had become very light, and extremely friublc and spongy, from the corrusion of the acids.
The shoerls remained black, but had lost their vitreous appearance. Both these lavas, likewise, contained
anumberoffeltspar8,which suffered less than the shoerls, as they always retained their natural changing
vol. V. u
1
a
146
SPALLANZ.ANl'S 'IRAVEtS
1'.<
!5ii
t
4^
I
I
an equal strength when the culphur is caused to burn very slowly. It remains there-
fore to determine which of these two acids, the muriatic or the sulphuric, is the real
cause of the decomposition and whitening which is frequently observed in products of
volcanos, at least of those which I have most attentively examined, Stromboliand Vul-
cano. And though I shall, in another part of the present work, produce direct proofs,
that some lavas, enamels, and volcanic glasses, sometimes give reception to the muriatic
acid, yet certainly the decompositions in question are not to be attributed to this acid,
but to the sulphureous. The odour of these acids is too different for them to be con-
founded ; and both at Stromboli and Vulcano, in the places where these decomposed
products arc found, enveloped in white fumes, I very sensibly perceived the aerid,
pungent, and suffocating fetor of the sulphur, as also the sharp taste, if a particle of the
fumes by accident entered my mouth. I likewise particularly remarked at Vulcano,
that where the sulphureous fumes were most dense, and left crusts of sulphur attached
to the bodies they touched, these bodies, whether lavas, pumices, or glasses, suffered
greater alteration than others ; and in some of them, the decomposition had penetrated
to the depth of two feet.
An experiment which I shall no'V relate offers a new and indisputable proof of what
I have here asserted. At Vulcano, I left a piece of extremely black lava, which had for
its base shocrl in the mass, and was one of the firmest and hardest I could fuid, in an
aperture from which issued a great quantity of very hot fumes ; and after it had con-
tinued there two-and-thirty days, I observed that, in its upper part, it remained un-
touched ; its biack colour only having become somewhat lighter ; but on the sides,
and still more on the lower part, where the impression made by the sulphureous fumes
had been greater and more active, it was become white, with a sensible softening of the
solid parts near the surface.
Had M. Sage, instead of deciding, while shut up in his laboratory, that the muriatic
acid is the cause of the alterations which take place in volcanic countries, himself visited
those countries, he would have thought differently ; and had he in the course of such a
journey entered the Grotta del Cane near Pozzuolo, the expression would never have
escaped him, that Uiis perpetual mephitis is produced by the volatile marine acid.*
lustre. But the ''ulphuric acid only produced in these lavas a cinereous colour, a less degree of fri-
ability and lightness than was caused by the other acid ; and the black shoerls did not lose any of their
glassy brilliancy. This acid was concentruted equally with the muriatic. Instead of the colour and
limpidness of water, it was become turbid and dark. The muriatic had acquired a beautiful golden
yellow. I must add, that, having poured some fresh sulphuric acid on the old, the decomposition and
whitening of the lavas, after some time, was not inferior to tliat produced by the muriatic acid. I found
a remarkable difference between the alteration observable in lavas in the vicinity of volcanos, and that
irhich is effected by the sulphuric and muriatir acids, since the volcanic alterations are sometimes ac-
companied by an unctuous smoothness, I never observed in the two lavas exposed to the action of the
above-mentioned acids, which, on the contrary, had become rough and scabrous.
• See chap. III.
ns there -
s the real
oducts of
and Vul-
ct proofs,
muriatic
this acid,
3 be con-
lomposed
;he aerid,
cle of the
Vulcano,
' attached
, suffered
lenetrated
•f of what
:h had for
nd, in an
had con-
uined un-
the sides,
lus fumes
ing of the
muriatic
elf visited
of such a
ever have
:id.*
grec of fri-
any of their
colour and
iful golden
)Osition and
1. I found
as, and that
netimcsac-
:tion of the
IN THE TWO SICILIES. 14.7
CHAPTER XIV.
VULCANO, CONTINUED.
Among the few naturalists who h.ive made a voyage to the Eolian isles, M. de Luc the only one
who has entered the crater of Vulcano....Suminarj' of the observations made by him there, in
1757, compared with those of the author....Similarities and differences between the local circum-
stances of the crater at that time and those of the present crater... .Observations made by the
commendator Dolomieu from the summit of the crater in 178 '....Remarkable changes which
have, since that time, taken place in the crater....Commotion of Vulcano in 1786....No eruption
of lava from the crater has happened within the memory of any of the natives of Lipari now
living....The phasnomena of this volcano habitually observed by them.... Visits made to this cra-
'ter by Father Bartoli, in 1646, and professor d'Orville in 1727.'...Interior conflagration through
the whole of the crater at the first period....Not one but two craters at the second....Hill which
at that time rose from the bottom of one of tiie two craters.... Vulcano then in its greatest agita^
tion....Some obscure memory still retained by some aged natives of Lipari of a double crater at
the summit of Vulcano....Sterility of this island on the side next Lipari, though there is no want
of vegetation on the opposite side....Porphyritic lavas in this part of the island, but greaUy de-
composed....Small crater on the side of Vulcano described for the first time....The fumes of Vul-
cano observed by some of the Liparese as signs of good or bad weather, in the same manner as
the inhabitants of Stromboli consult their burning riiountain....Observations published by a na-
tive of Lipari, on the diversity of the fumes, and iiiicmal commotions of Vulcano, betokening^
according to him, what winds will blow....Observations of the author not agreeable to those of
the Liparese....The fires of Vulcano more powerful at that time than now, it the accounts given
by that writer may be relied on.... Ancient accounts of the conflagrations of yulcano....Number
and size of its craters....Its different eructations....This burning mountain, in a certain degree,
comparable to Vesuvius and Etna....Prognosticsof the winds which may be expected to blow
from the symptoms of the volcano very ancient ; and perhaps deserve equal credit with the
modern.
AMONG the very few naturalists who have made a voyage to the island of Lipari,
M. W. deLuc is the only one, to my knowledge, who has entered the crater of Vul-
cano. This he did on the 30th of March, 1757, as appears from an account of the
observations he made there, published in the second volume of the travels of M. de
Luc, a summary of which account I shall here present to the reader, as we shall thus be
enabled to compare the local circumstances which existed at th'at time, with those ob-
served by me in one of the most superb and spacious gulfs at this day to be found among
burning mountains.
He relates that he reached the bottom of the crater, by a narrow passage, which af-
forded him entrance, but with great risk of being suffocated by the dense sulphureous
fumes that enveloped him; in consequence of which danger he was obliged to enter
alone, the guide who had cqnducted him to the summit of the crater, and who was a
native of Lipari, having refused to follow him. He found the bottom very rugged and
uneven, of an oval form, with several apertures, from which issued sulphureous vapours,
and from some a strong wind. The sound of his feet as he walked on it was very sen-
sible.
Theiongest diameter of the oval appeared to him to be about eight or nine hundred
paces, and the shorter between five and six hundred. The height of the sides of the
u 2
— *^
1
14B
oPALLANZANl's TRAVELS
crater he imagined might be about one hundred and fifty, or, towards the east and the
south, two hundred feet. At the bottom they were nearly perpendicular, and were
composed entirely of volcanic materials.
A column of smoke, of fifteen or eighteen feet in diameter, issued from a cavern
which above lost itself in one of the highest sides of the crater, and below ended in a
kind of tunnel, or rather abyss, of about sixty paces in circuit ; and the fumes on issuing
out of that abyss roared like the vapour of boiling water, when it escapes fi*om a vessel
rot closely covered. Several pieces of scorifc being thrown into it were no longer heard
^vhen they had passed beyond the tunnel.
Another object likewise strongly attracted the attention of M. de Luc : this was an
aperture, five or six inches in diameter, which terminated in a small tunnel about two
feet and a half deep, from which the air rushed with as much violence as from the bel-
lows of a forge. He threw into it great pieces of lava, which enlarging the opening,
caused the wind to issue with less ibrce, but the small pieces that were detached from
the aperture were driven outward^. by it. The fragments of lava which fell within, pro-
duced the same eficct as the scoriae thrown into the tunnel of the cavern. As these ob-
servations convinced him of the extreme thinness of the floor or shell on which he stood,
he thought it advisable to quit this perilous gulf, and direct his researches to objects
less dangerous.
He then remarked that the sulphureous vapours of the volcano had here a communi-
cation with the sea, which was in many places of a yellow colour, and in others emitted
fumes ; and that in the places where the fumes rose its heat v/as intolerable ; so that
the fish that happened to approach that shore soon died, and the beach, where a few
inches above the level of the sea warm veins of water burst out, was scattered over
with dead fish.
Such is the substance of the observations of M. de Luc, made about thirty.one years
before mine. On comparing the one with the other, it will appear, that if the internal
parts of the crater of Vulcano have sufiered some changes since that time, they are still
essentially the same. At present (at least, at the time when I was there, I might have
said at present) the sides of the crater are in most parts nearly perpendicular, the circum-
ference of the bottom is an oval, from a number of fissures and apertures sulphureous
fumes issue, and from others streams of wind with a hissing sound. The bottom like-
wise shews evidently that it is a dangerous and a false bottom, by shaking and sounding
when walked over. The cavern excavated in the sides of the crater, and described by
the above-cited traveller, also still exists, and from it a cloud of sulphureous fumes con-
tinues to exhale ; and had not M. de Liic been fearful of prosecuting his researches, it
is more than probable that he would have found it abounding with sulphur and various
salts, as it is at present.
The differences, therefore, between the state of the crater at the time it was entered
by M. de Luc and at present are reduced to these ; first, that the narrow passage by
which he reached the bottom now no longer exists ; but that, on the other hand, the
sides on the south-east are become less steep, and afford a way to descend into that gulf:
secondly, that the height of the crater is now much greater than it was then, as I found
it to exceed a quarter of a mile, whereas when M. de Luc was there it was not more
than two hundred feet : lastly, that the furnace below the bottom burns much more
violently at present, as may be inferred from the intense and almost intolerable heat I
felt when I was there, which circumstance, had it existed when M. de Luc made his
observations, he certainly would not have failed to have mentioned.
fJ^V ■.'*?r!T^'*.'*"* .*7^J^^t!
i
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
Ml;
1 do not meua lo say by this that the subterranean conflagration of the inland is ncnv
more active or energetic ; since it appears that the extreme heat, though not then felt
>vithin the crater, manifested itself without, andeveninthe sea itself, which as has been
observed, smoked in several places near the shore, and was so hot that the fish all died ;
circumstances which did not exist when I visited the island.
M. Dolomieu, who was tlitre seven years before me, could not go down into the cra-
ter, because the narrow passage by which M. de Luc entered no longer existed, and the
sides were too steep to admit of any descent. The volcanic mouth, however, was then
in the same situation, was large, of an o al form, and emitted, in a gr^^at number of
places, sulphureous acid and suffocating fumes.
Yet within this short interval, very considerable changes have taken place. The
depth of the crater, as far as my judgment could be formed by the eye, was then about
a mile, the larger diameter of its mouth was half a mile, and that of its bottom about
fifty paces. Whence it appears that the bottom, since that time, must have been greatly
raised, and likewise have become narrower, while the mouth has been considerably en-
larged. From the edge of the crater, he threw into it large stones, which, when they
reached the bottom, he perceived sank in some fluid, that could not be acjueous, since
it must have been soon evaporated by the excessive heat, but which he judged to be
melted sulphur; as he in fact saw that substance trickle down the sides against which it
had sublimed. With a good telescope he could discover at the bottom two small
pools, which he supposed to be full of the same combustible matter. He likewise ob-
served that the sulphureous fumes which in the day time appeared white, were by night
resplendent but placid flames that rose above the mountain, and diffused their light to
some distance.
When I made my observations at the bottom of the crater, though the sulphur flowed
in many parts of the cavern, as I have already said, yet it did not stagnate in small pools
or pits at tlie bottom ; nor did the sulphureous flames arise by night more than some
feet from the bottom.
The changes which have taken place in the internal parts of this volcano, since it was
visited by the French naturalist, have probably originated from some later eruption ;
since it is to tliat cause that changes of any moment in volcanic craters are usually to be
attributed. And in fact, according to the unanimous testimony of the inhabitants of
Lipari, it suffered a very violent commotion in the month of March 1786. After sub-
terraneous thunders and roarings, which were heard over all the islands, and which in
Vuicano were accompanied with frequent concussions and violent shocks, the crater
threw out a prodigious quantity . i sand mixed with immense volumes of smoke and
fire. This eruption continued fifteen days; and so great was the quantity of sand eject-
ed, that the circumjacent places were entirely covered with it to a considerable height ;
and, at a small distance from the crater, to the east, there is still an eminence, of a coni-
cai lorm, huif a mile in circumference, consisting wholly of this pulverised substance,
and, as 1 was assured, entirely produced at this time. The aperture that must then have
been made in the bottom of the crater to discharge such a quantity of matter, and the
accuniuiations ol that matter in various places, must necessarily have caused great changes
around and within the crater ; one of which, without doubt, is the declivity produced
in the southern sides, in consequence of which it is now possible to descend to the bot-
tom oi the gulf; for we find that this long descent is entirely composed of sand.
No lava flowed in this eruption, at least not over the edges of the crater. With respect
to the lava of a vitreous nature which is found on the surface on the northern side of the
mountain, and of which we have ahready spoken, M. Dolomieu observed that it existed
1
IVl
m
I
150
SPALLANZANI S TBAVELS
when he was there, and he tells us that it was thrown out in large masses in an eruptiou
in the year 1775 : an assertion of the truth of which he should have produced uuques
tionable documents ; for, according to the accounts I received from the natives of Li-
pari, no eruption of lava has happened in the memory of any persons now living in the
island, nor do they seem to have any tradition of any. Clouds more or less {Kiqucntor
thick, sometimes lilack and sometimes of a white colour, and emitting a stench of sul-
])hur ; snbtcrraneous thunders and concussions, which often shake the whole mountain ;
flames which rise to a greater or less height from the bottom and sides of the volcanic
gulf; the possibility of entering this gulf at onetime, and the impossibility of such en-
trance at another ; ejections at different times of ignited stones, pieces of vitreous sub-
stances, sand, and ashes ; these are phenomena with which the people of Lipari have been
long acquainted.
1 must here add the observations of two other men of science, relative to the crater of
\"ulcano, Father Bartoli and M. d'Orville. The former visited the island in 1646, and
relates that it contained a deep gulf, entirely in a state of conflagration within, and in a
small degree to be compared to Etna ; and that from its mouth a copious smoke conti-
nually exhaled.*
WMien M. d'Orville visited Vulcano, in 1727, it had two distinct craters, each of which
was at the summii of an eminence. From the first crater, which was situated to the
south, and which was about a mile and a half in circuit, besides flame and smoke, ignited
stones were ejected; and its roaring was not less than that of the loudest thunder. From
the bottom of this gulf rose a small hill, ubout two hundred '>et lower than the top of the
crater, and from this hill, which was entirely covered with sulphur and dirty corroded
stones, fiery vapours exhaled in every part. M. d'Orville had, however, scarcely reach-
ed the edge of this burning furnace when he was obliged precipitately to retire.
The second crater lay towards the north part of the island. Its conflagrations were
more frequent and ardent ; and its ejections of stones mixed with ashes and an extremely
black smoke were almost continual. M. d'Orville further relates that the noise of this
volcanic island was heard many miles ; and was so loud at Lipari that he could not sleep
the whole night that he remained there.f
If we consider for a moment these two accounts, we shall perceive from the first, that
when Father Bartoli visited Vulcano, the conflagration in its crater was much more vi-
gorous than when I was there; and from tlie second, that in the time of d'Orville it was
in a state of complete eruption. But the most remarkable circumstances are the double
burning crater, and the bifurcation of the mountain of Vulcano ; whereas at present there
is but one crater, and the summit of the mountain is single, which summit contains the
crater, resembling in figure a truncated cone. The hill which rose to a certain height
from the bottom of one of the two craters still exists, though it is not peculiar to mis
volcanic mouth, since the same kind of hill has at times been observed in Etna, j: and
likewise in Vesuvius. §
When 1 was at Lipari, as I had read d'Orville's account, I made inquiries of some of
the oldest people in the island relative to this double burning crater, and I found some
few ofthemu ho retained an imperfect recollection of it. But from that time to this
there has been only one crater, and I am not certain whether the present be that which
the above-cited author describes as on the south side of the island, or that which he men-
tions as on the north.
* Sim!)oli trasportati al Morale.
I .StoCiia]).Vlll.
t Jacob! Philippi d'Orville Sicula*
$ Bottis, Istoriadi Vesuvio.
I.V TirU TWO SICILIES.
151
The side ol the isl ind which looks towards Lipari is entirely birrv.n, and docs nf)t
|)rodiicc any kind of vegetable ; hut this is not the case with the other sides that IVniu
the south and the west, and which arc partly covered with hohns and oaks, hcsiil- s
quantities of broom and other shrul)s. It is oljvious to suppose th.it tliosc parts of tlv
island which aftord so much nourislmunt for plants have been more subject to decom-
positions tha'i that which remains b.iiTcn. The substances of whi(;h tliey are composed
arebivas become soft to a certain depth, and aftbrdincj reception and nutriment to planr^i.
This decomposition is not to be attributed to sulphureous acids; for it is !iot distin-
guished by a white or any other colour; but orij^inates from the humid elements, and
other causes in the atmosphere. I cau:jed several of these lavas to be broken away with
hammers and pick-axcs, quite to the internal part, to which the causes producing change
could not penetrate ; and there I found them retain all their usual solidity and freshness.
In General they are porphyritic, with a petrosiliceous base, and contain fcltspathose crys-
tallizations. They descend from the summit of the mountain, on the southern side,
with a steep fall till they reach the sea. Mixed with the lavas are found large pieces of
glass and enamel, which I shall not here describe, as they do not differ from those of
Lipari, of which I shall speak in their place.
Such are the observations I made in four different visits to this island, to which I shall
add another relative to a smaller crater, different from that of Vulcanello, and which
has not, to my knowledge, been noiieed by any other traveller. It lies about half
way up the mountain, to the east of the way 1 took to reach the summit. Its form could
not more distinctly characterize it as a real crater, since it is precisely that of a tunnel,
wide above and narrowing below. Its mouth is about three hundred feet in circuit, and
its bottom about eighty. A full quarter of this bottom is filled up with earth carried
by the rain down the sides, which are in consequence marked with long furrows. Hence
it appears that in process of time this crater will be entirely filled up^ with earth, like
that of Vulcanello, and no trace of it remain.
In the same maimer as many of the sailors of Stromboli, before they put to sea, are
accustomed to consult the fumes and eruptions of their burning mountain ; the mariners
of Lipari believe the changes of the winds and weather may be foretold by observing
Vulcano. Instructed, they si\y, by long experience, they are able to predict, twenty-
four hours before any change, whether the weather will be fair or tempestuous, and
from what point the wind will blow. In a work entitled Tracts by Sicilian Authors,*
printed at Palermo in 1761, there is a " physico-mathematical discourse on the manner in
which the variations of the winds may be foretold, twenty-four hours before they hap-
pen; by the different qualities and effects of the fumes of Vulcano, by Sig. Don Salva-
dore Paparcuri of Messina."t In this essay we find an extract from a number of ob-
servations made on Vulcano between the years 1730 and 1740, and communicated to the
author by Don Ignazio Rossi, a native of Lipiu-i. This extract I shall here present to
my readers.
" The change of weather and winds is pres'gnified by Mount Vulcano twenty-four
hours before it takes place, by a louder ♦'"an usual noise, resembling distant thunder ;
and if we carefully observe the smoke whiel then issues in a greater quantity than usual,
we may likewise discoverwhat kind of wind w^M succeed, which may be predicted from the
greater or less density of the smoke, and its more or less dark colour, which is occasioned
* Opuscoli di Autori Siciliani.
t Discorso Fisico-matematico sopra la variazlone de' vcnti pronosticata ventiquattre ore prima dalle
varie c diverse qualita ed effetti de' fumi di Vulcano, del Sig. Don Salvadorc Paparcuri, Messinesc.
-M
152
ai'ALLANlIANI S fRAVELS
w
i-r
by the finality and quantity of the dnst tliat rises in tin- smoke, and renders it sometimes
oi'an rsh-{^ray colour, sometimes perfeetly white, sonietimcbol" a colour approaching to
black, and sometimes entirely black.
" The following; arc the observations I have made on this subject. When the wind
is about to change to the sirocco or south-cast, or the east-south-east, or south-south-east,
tlic smoke rises so dense and black, in so gn at a (juantity and to such a height, and after-
wards dissipates in so black a dust as to strike the beholder with a kind of awe ; and at
the same time so loud a roaring is heard, IVecjUcntly accompanied with a shaking of the
earth, as to inspire with dread even those long accustomed to these roarings and shocks.
But M'hen the wind is on the point of changing to the north-north-east or north-north-
west, the smoke rises more slowly, is less dense, and entirely white ; and when it is dissi-
pated, the dust which falls is extremely white. No such loud noise is then heard, nor
any shock felt ; at least I observed none, nor can the oldest inhabitant of this island re-
member to have felt any. When it is about to change to the east or east-north-cast, an
explosion is heard in the body of the mountain, which soon after throws out a little
smoke of a gray colour, of which colour are likewise the ashes that fall when the cloud
is dispc rscd. The mountain in the mean time explodes and roars so violently at inter-
vals, that we frequently dread the shock of an earthquake. Lastly, previotis to a change
of the wind to the west, the west-south-west, or west-north-west, vast volumes of smoke
arise, of a dark ash-gray, approaching the colour of lead, and so thick that when they
disperse they occasion a continued shower of ashes."
On these observations of the Liparese meteorologist, Signor Paparcuri proceeds to phi-
losophise, whether pertinently or not I shall not inquire.
I should think myself justly to incur the imputation of rashness, should I venture ab-
solutely to deny these facts, without having sufficient reasons so to do ; especially as they
are so precise, so circumstantial, and said to have been observed upon the spot. It be-
sides does not appear credible that the abbate Rossi would have published these obser-
vations, had they been merely the lubrications of his invention, in a place where he was
liable to be disgraced by the contradiction of all his countrymen. I must however say,
w ith philosophic candour, that during my stay of several weeks at Lipari, where I con-
tinually had Vulcano before my eyts, the principal winds mentioned in this extract blew,
and particularly the south-east, the west, and the south-west ; but I never observed, either
before they began, or while they continued to blow, any shaking of the earth, or roar-
ing, lofty columns of smoke, or showers of ashes. Once only, when a violent south-
west wind was on the decline, the column of smoke which issued fi"om the cavern of
Vulcano increased prodigiously, and, from the resistance of the agitated atmospheric air,
made some spiry windings ; but when it had risen some poles above the upper edge of
the crater, it began to grow thinner, and soon after entirely vanished. Though the wind
ceased to blow, this prodigious cloud of smoke still continued to rise for several hours.
I must add, that I once remarked the smoke of Vulcano to be extremely thin, andlitde
in quantity, when a strong west wind blew ; and that twice, when the air was perfectly
calm, I observed the smoke extremely copious and rising to a great height. To con-
clude, after carefully noticing day by day every change that took place in the phenomena
exhibited by Vulcano, during m} stay in its vicinity, I could perceive none which af-
forded support to these famous prognostics. I likewise inquired of the sailors of Lipari,
and frequently brought them to confess that the fact did not accord with their assertions.
But, besides that they did not agree among themselves, they endeavoured to evade con-
viction by all those excuses and pretexts which I have observed sea-faring people never to
want, to support their particular prejudices relative to the signs of good or bad weather;
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
15d
in consequence of which they sometimes become ihe victims of their own credulity by
suffering shipwreck.
I am not, however, so positive as to deny the whole of these observations. To know
with certainty whether any direct relations exist between the various symptoms of VuU
cano and the changes of the atmosphere, it would be necessary to reside for some years
in that island, a place truly wild and dcif'^late ; and he who, like Empedocles at Etna,
should go to erect his dwelling there, in order to observe the changes of the mountain,
would nave no other companions than the rabbits which make their burrows on the
southern side of the island.
Disregarding, however, at present the pretended relations, observed by Signor Rossi,
between Vulcano and the winds ; if the accounts of the eruptions which then from time
to time issued from its crater may be relied on, we must own that at that period the con-
vulsions of this mountain were much more violent and fretiuent than they arc at pre-
sent : a fact which accords with the observations of M. d'Orville and Father Bartoli.
Before I conclude my remarks on Vulcano, two things remain for me to notice, agree-
ably to the plan I have followed relatively to the other Eolian isles. First, to specify
the results obtained by our common fires in those kinds of rock which, liquefied by
subterranean conflagrations, have given birth to the island ; and, secondly, to mention
the notices left us by the ancient writers relative to Vulcano. The former object of-
inquiry has been sufficiently discussed, while treating of Stromboli, where we have de-
tailed the changes undergone in the furnace by porphyritic rocks ; since, as has been
already shewn, rocks of a similar kind have furnished the materials of which Vulcano is
composed. We have therefore only to treat of the latter of these subjects.
V^e are indebted to Thucydidesfor the first account we have of this island. He re-
lates in his history, that in his time Vulcano threw out a considerable flame by night, and
smoke by day.*
Aristotle, m his Treatise concerning Meteors, describes an ancient eruption of Vul-
cano, a part of which swelled and rose, with great noise, into a hill ; which bursting, a
violent wind issued forth together with fire, and so great a quantity of ashes as entirely
to cover the neighbouring city of Lipari, and extend to several of the towns of Italy.
This eruption was still visible in his time.f
The interesting observations of Polybius relative to the number, size, and figure of
the craters of Vulcano, are likewise particularly deserving our notice. In his time there
were three ; two tolerably well preserved, and one in part fallen in. The mouth of the
larger, which was round, was about five stadi, or five-eighths of an Italian mile, in cir-
cuit. This crater towards the bottom grew gradually less, till at last it was only fifty
feet in diameter ; this part was one stadium above the level of the sea. The form of
the other two craters was the same.:};
Such is the account of Polybius, as quoted by Strabo, -who himself tells us of three
openings or craters at Vulcano, from which flames issued, and ignited matters were
tlirown out, that filled up a part of the sea of considerable extent. §
t Ed 'I<{« •{«?•/•< TiT»c y*f, ie*> m»u tiof >i»^iiftit lyxtt juitm 4'f f^'t it fayn^ttj t^D^Si mttifta ?r«Av, *mi 'ttv
f M^axw »«< r»t Tif ^« mmtyut, utu ti?1« Aiw»f*im M'txir, uray « v*ff* ir»rm saTtri^jaim, itiii nf tr i«c tmt » IraXt*
v«M*» daSi Lib. ii. cap. 8.
f n«>t.C'ot A ruf tfim nfmrn^tet m ftw ic«TippM|«ir«< ^»rn •» jui(«v(, rut A fUf*ftntif, to* Jt fiihitn t* p^ii^ct IX"'*
nrijxf if ic «>, vifTt ftmiktn xar tUy» i% wutmyxfiM «<( » mivn /(i^iT{*( «rtf' « jBailoc firm to ^'XV '9'«^««'«'»c %*tttu%i.
Strab. lib. iv.
% Ex*' A mmmtn ''{•<() «•< m i* t^ivn ii{«r»{W is A t* fkxHin ««i |hi/){<( «> <fMy<{ oMfi^vrir, ti m%9%%^m%*9»
kAt weAw /ui{«c Til vofii. Strab. lib. vi.
VOL. V. X
vrnt^^tSiiiAi-iigii't' -'.
i
i
if
i54
SFALLANZANl's TRAVELS
I-
From the two latter passajj^s we learn, therefore, that anciently there were in VuL
cano three buniiiig mouths, or more properly craters, and that one of them was very
large. Are wc to conclude that this larger crater was the same that at present exists,
and which since that time may have increased its dimensions? This may possihiy he the
truth; and it may perhaps be equally so, that of the three craters mentioned by Polybius
and Strabo, two stilt remained in the time of d'Orville, who found a double burning
crater at Volcano, though at present there is only one; the other two no longer appear-
ing, either because they have fallen in, or been filled with earth by the rains, or possibly
have been covered by subsequent ejections.
From the text of Strabo it may be inferred, that in his time Vulcano ejected lav^
since the burning matter thrown out filled up a part of the sea of considerable extent.
Cullias, in his Life of Agithocles, Tyrant of S\ racuse, relates that on a lofty eminence
of \ ulcano there were two craters, one of which was three stadi in circumference, cast-
ing a great light to a vast distance ; and that from his mouth burning stones, of a pro-
digious size, were thrown out with so great u noise that it might be heard to the distance
of five hundred stadia.*
If, therefore, we believe the testimony of Diodorus and Fazello, who, as natives of
Sicily, have the besi claim to our attention, we have already seen, when treating of
Stromboli, that the former asserts that both that island and Vulcano threw out sands
and burning stones ; and we leurn from the latter, that Vulcano was in a continual
state of conHiigration ; and that from its gulf, which lay in the middle of the island, a
cloud of thick smoke continually issued, while through the fissures of the stones, and
narrow apertures, a pale flame arose in the midst of the dark cloud. f
Cluverius likewise affirms, that from the neighbouring shore of Sicily he had himself
observed by night a similar fire amid the dark smoke.| /
And here it is proper, with Cluverius, to correct a mistake of Fazello, who, relying
on the authority of some superficial writer, has been induced to believe that the island
of Vulcano emei^ed from the sea in the year of Rome 550, without reflecting that, two
hundred years before that period, it is mentioned by Thucydides, and that Aristotle,
about a century after him, had described one of its eruptions. The mistake has been
occasioned by the origin of Vulcanello, which about this time arose out of the water.
Pliny has remarked that when this island was thrown up, a great number of fish were
found dead, and caused the death of those who ate of th m.
The same Fazello relates, that Vulcano was sejxirated from Vulcanello by a narrow
channel of the sea, in which ships might lie with safety ; and that this strait was open
in his lime; but afterwards filiedup by new eruptions of Vulcano. §
The brief statement of facts recorded by history, when compared with the observa-
tions of Burtoli, d'Orville, De Luc, Doiomieu, and myself, clearly proves that this island
* Ir/<i«<i K«'k'ti«(« <> Jinaro rm ti^ ^yaituxt; \tyan ufi *ai xof •> t(<|jiM>, 19' • x^MTHfK iiri /boi m • it«#o( ici
f';>T«< Jiuv^mt X1601 ainit'Ttfxfytbtit xai TMXixovTCf fif'fttt yiurmtf m» tiri TirTaxori* 9tmti» tnutgiti t** ■>;(•*•
Sci.oii.^st. Ill Apollon, Aifiroiiaut. lib. iii.
t Hacc (Vuicaiii lusulu) in medio mari aqiiis circunifusa perpetuo ardet. Eiiimvcro ex voi'agine^
quae in nic(tio patct, jugiier in^ciiteni I'umi ncbulam hodic cructut. Iiuus vuropcr juncturas lapidum,
■ex. caiiccllob, i>i)gusiO!i(iuc meatus exurcns, siniul, ct palleus ignis inter ipsam funiosam caligiacm
cniittiuir. Histor. lib. i. .
f Hujusinodi iiuer funiosam caliginem pallcntcm ignem egomet nocte e proximo littore Sicult
dcspejii.— Ubi sup.
§ Vulcancllus tcnuissimo Euripo a Vulcania (Insula) rectdit Euripus ad setatem usque
meant p ivius, .c tidanavigits«>tatio,nunc, tat erjuctacx Vuicaiiix caminis ciucrumac bpidum molf^
prxclusus cst»~.Ubi sup.
.«(MW-'M«u*«eHur.>iM^.W«>«K&k«i ■•*.■«
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
156
and
\h a volcano, which may be compared to Vesuvius or Etna, u ith rc«i|HCt to the changes
in its craters, the variety oi' its eruptions, and its Ioniser or slKirter intervals of repose ;
except thai, Irom the want of aliment for its fires, its ejections are less frequent and less
copious.
From the authorities above adduced, we perceive that the fires of this mountain arc
very ancient, since they burned in the age when Thucydides flourished, or 475 years
before the Christian aera. This island was then called Hicra (''m") or die sacred isle,
«s being sacred to Vulcan ; for the inhabitants of the neighbouring islands, as Thucy-
dides informs us, perceiving it continually to flame by night, and smoke by day, helicv-
cd it was the residence and forge of that god.* It is however extremely probable that
these volcanic conflagrations arc much m(jre ancient than this period ; as is the island
whei-e (hey are produced, which no doubt derived its origin from fire, though its forma-
tion is concealed amid the darkness of the most remote ages.
The accounts here given of the present state of Vulcano, clearly shew the mistake of
Sir William Hamilton, who compares it to Solfatara nc - Naples ; a mistake occasioned
by his not having visited the island.
We have spoken above of the opinion of many of the natives of Lipari, that it is possi-
blc to foretel with certainty what winds will blow, from the different appearances of the
smoke of Vulcano. 1 find that the ancients likewise boasted the knowledge of the same
prognostics. They inform us that before a south wind blew, the island of Vulcano
was enveloped in a dark cloud, so that Sicily could not be seen ; and that when a north
wind was to be expected, a pure flame rose high above the crater, and the roarings were
more violent ; while a kuid of I know not what middle symptoms preceded the zephyr
or west wind. The various sounds of the explosions likewise, and the different places
where the eruptions began, the flames, and the smoke, were all prognostics of the wind
which should blow after the third day. Such is the account of Pol} bius, who has been
•opied by all the writers who have succeeded him.f
These prognostics, however, which the Creek historian probably received from the
marmers, accord but little with those of Signor Rossi above cited, and still less with the
phenomena observable ill Vulcano at present; either because such indicatory signs can
no longer take place, noi"*.hat the volcano is in a comparative slate of tranquillity ; or
because these boasted predictions originated more in exaggeration and credulity than the
faithful testimony of the senses.
* N»/u<{>r< A »i tmifn anSfMir^i, » tn 'Iif« «*c o 'H««<f oc x,**'***"'' Tluicycl. uhi sup.
t '£«* fut nfXTOc ftt^Kn f*y<i*t 'X*'"* 'f'*X*'''^'' imT^X'"^" ■■'■'^" i"i ''<« i»v,i»c^ t(i /uxft rut SmikiM* arui\t
To ^ t^tfi/p't fjLtfuf tita tx*'* T'^'K. IK Ti Jn r»f /ia&'.;ac Tat /Jfio/uM*, Hai tx tk viii<u acp^iro' raM'/KCvriifutrxy itm
mi ^x«y'(> **> «' ^lytvttt frftr»fAm>t*6»i KWttt tit »/Aifat rfittt n-axo /uiX)oit« mtyoi -rrhtif. Polyb. up. Strub.
lib. vi.
^J 2
*r
ll
u
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i
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i
'ii'
*
M
SPAtLANZANl's TRAVELS
CHAPTER XV.
LIPARI.
PART THE FIRST.
OBSERVATIONS MADE ROUND THE SHORES OF THE ISLAND.
l^navoidable delays in making the circuit of tlie island... .The city of Lipari and its harbour....
Imnunsr rock of lava and glass on which the castle of Lipari is founded.... Reasons for believ-
ing that the internal part ol this rock is a true glas8....0ther proofs of the ancient cxistenc of
fire in that placr, derived from the pumices of the same rock.... Our common fire acts on volca-
nic glasses differently from the sul)terranean fires.... Other observations made within the har-
bour.... Porphyritic laviA of a beautifid red found in its vicinity....'] author leaves the harbour,
and makes the circuit of the island, proceeding towards the north. ...The enormous breachei
made by the sea in the shorts of the Eolian islands extremely favourable to the discovery of
volcanic products.... Another red porphyritic lava.... Extraordinary course of iinothrr lava.... The
Campo Bianco (White Field) so called from the white pumices of which it is an entire moun-
tain....Tiu ir dillerent species described in detail.... Analysis of these and other kinds of pumices
in the humid way.. ..Discussion of the different opinions relative to this kind of volcanic pro-
duct8....The Monte dclla Castagna composed of vitrifications and enamels.... Properties of these
....Capillary vitrifications....Oihcr8 which may be considered as in a state of transition from pu-
mice to glass.... Not probable that the glass passes into pumice, as some have believed.... Resem-
blance and difference of these two sub8tanccs....Enumcration of some other kinds of glasses, one
of which greatly resembles what is called the Iceland agate, or gallinaceous stone of Peru...*
Glassy lavas of the Monte della Castagna.. ..This mountain and Campo Bianco, with their en-
virons, form a vitrified mass eight miles in circuit....This vitrification more extensive in ancient
times....No characteristic sign of the existence of the ancient volcanos on the sides of thit
mountain.... Indubitable proofs, however, that some of the above-mentioned vitreous substances
have flowed, and others been thrown up, from volcanic gulfs.... Feltspars and petrosilex com-
monly the base of these vitrifications.. ..Question, whether the vitreous parts, incorporated with
or continued through the different lav.%i, owe their origin to a more vehement action of the fire,
or to their being more easily vitrifiable.... Singular phenomenon relative tothissubject....Univer-
sal sterility of this extensive vitrified tract....Uncertainty of the rule which estimates the dates
of lavas from their being more or less converted into vegetable earth... .Multiplicity of lav.ts de-
composed by sulphureous acids, sind variously coloured by the oxyde of iron, found beyond the
Monte della Castagna.... Decompositions of other lavas, occasioned by the same acids, and other
enamels and pumices found on the shores of the island.... Extremely minute shoerls, and beau-
tiful quartzose crystals, and chalcedonies, originating from filtration, in some decomposed lavas
....Two large rocks in the narrow channel which divides Lipiiri from Vulcano^...Thi9 channel in
ancient times must have been narrower ihan at present. ...ConJLt lure that it once did not exist,
and, consequently, that these two islands tbrmcd but one.... Figure of the Monte della Guardia
seen from the sea....Its rocks of lavas, pumivcs, and vitrifications.. .;Prodigious quantity of vi-
treous eruptions which compose Urn mountain.
THIS island, from its extent, the city which renders it illustrious, the number of its
inhabitants, its commerce and agriculture, cbims pre-tmincnce above all the others by
IN THE TWO SICILIES.
t5r
..The
which it is surrounded, and which from it derive the name of the Lipari islands. Nor is
it less important in the estimation of the naturalist, from the (piantity, variety and un.
usual beauty of the volcanic products it contains. M. Dolomieu, durinj^ the four days
he remained here, gathered as ample a harvest as within so short a time could Ik- expt r.t.
cd from the most discerning and indefilinahle lithf)lof;ist ; hut it is lasy to conr< ivc that
he must still leave much tol>c discovered in an island nineteen miles in (ircnit. I)urin]>
the eighteen days that I remained there, I may say that the sickle was never f»ut of my
hand; yet I will freely coniVss that I U ft behind me many a handful, which I would wil-
lingly have gathered, hud this volcanic Island been less distant from my honie.
For the Siikeof order in my account of the observations 1 made in this island, I shall
first state those which occurred to me in making its circuit, and examining its shores ;
and next, those I made in ils interior, and in ascending its mountains. My remarks will
thus, naturally, be divided into two parts.
PART THK FIRST.
OBSERVATIONS MADE HOUND TIIK SHORES OF LIPARI.
IN making this circuit, that I might perform it completely, I cmpk*jcd more time
than I had imagined it could require. Besides the time necessary for remaining with
the boat at a little distance from the shore to observe the diftlrent courses taken by the
volcanic matters, in their way to the sea, when ruiuefied by the power of the fire ; be-
sides that consumed in landing to examine these matters more nearly, and breaking them
to pieces with suitable insuuments, that I might collect and preserve them ; lastly, be-
bides the time requisite to ascend or rather to climb up, sttep rocks, clifi's, a«»d preci-
pices, which rose from the waves, at the termination of the course of the eruptions ; [
was not a little delayed by the obstacles which continually opposed the execution of my
design. How often, when I attempted to prosecute my intended circuit while the sea
was calm and smooth as the most placid lake, have I been obliged to desist, and return
with my boat, by a wind suddenly rising, either contrary, or blowing in upon the land,
so as to expose me to the danger of being driven upon the shore, and shipwrecked on the
rocks! Frequently, though the sea was sufiiciently calm for a considerable distance, yet,
where the coast broke off, or sunk in, I found it running high, from the remains of a
storm that had not long ceased, or, as it is termed, an old sea, which my boat was unable
to encounter without great danger. Every one who is acquainted with the sea that sur-
rounds the Eolian isles, knows how liable it is to sudden tempests.
The city of Lipari extends along the shore in the form of an amphitheatre. Behind it
rise a chain of mountains ; and in front is its harbour, formed by the hollow ing in of the
sea, which here divides the shore. I omit to mention another very small hiU'bour to the
south, only fit for the reception of such vessels as may be drawn up on shore.
I began my researches in the harbour itself, under the castle of the city, which is erect-
ed on an immense rock of lava, that rises perpendicularly from the water, and is entirely
destitute of all vegetation except a few stalks of the Indian fig,* which grow in its fis-
sures.
This lava has for its base feltspar, is of a fine and compact grain, of a scaly fracture,
dry to the touch, and gives sparks, like flint, with steel. It is of a ci. ereous colour, in
many places approaching to that of lead. It is full of an immense quantity of small ex-
traneous bodies, which would be with difficulty distinguished from the substance of the
• Cactus Opuntia. Lin.
t
150
it'AtLANZANl'l TRAVKLM
;f .'I
InvAon ftpcoimt of tlicJr respmtilaiicc in colour, were tlifv not little pjlobcs. Thin Inva
iKJoiiud to hirf(c masses of ffluMM, which form a whole with it, without any divisioiiH of
sc paratioiis in the middle. It then-fore is the same luvn, which in some places rctuiiiH
its nature, and in others is transmuted to glass. This ^lass in some parts contains the
small extr.iiuoUH ljodi(s iK'fore mt ntioiud, hut in others it is pure ((lass. In general it
is extremely compact, of a dull black colour, and fractures rather in irregular pieces
than in waving btreaks, as is usual with glass. It has besides n kind of unctuositv to
the touch, and even apparent to the eye, which is not observable in any other of the
most |)erfeet volcanic glasses. Like the lava it gives sparks with steel ; but the lavu is
entirely opaqiu , whereas the gl.iss in the angles and thinner edges, has a considerable
degree of trur)<>paixncy. It only a|)pears opa(|ue where it contains the minute glolxs,
whi( h arc particles of thq la\a. '1 hough tiie lava in the fractures has not the lustre of
the glass of which it isa contiiuiation, yet when cut and polished, it is not in the least
inferior to it in that respect. I possess several pieces, cut and polished, which arc half
glass and half lava, and of which the diHtrent colours form an excellent contrast.
An observation which 1 madeieLitive to this kind uf glass appears to mc too impor-
tant to be omitted.
If wc take a piece of this glass, six or seven feet in length, and four or five thick, and
attentively examine it, we shall discover that it is marked with small gray veins paral-
lel to each other, whieligivc it die appearance of being divided into strata or flakes ; and
if the point of a large pick-axe be struck by a powerful arm into one of these veins, and
used as u lever, the whole mass will split into two parts, from oncctid to the other, foU
lowitig the course of the vein ; and with equal facility, by proceeding in the same man-
ner, may new divisions of tlu: glass be obtained in the other veins, till the whole piece is
divided into a number uf plates proportionate to the number of veins : but if we attempt
to divide them in any other part but the vein, they only break into small irregular frag-
ments.
When we examine the face of one of the plates thus divided, we perceive that every
vein consists of u thin leaf of earthy and scoriaceous particles, which prevents the vitre-
ous strata from perfectly uniting. 'Fhc direction of these veins, which intersect the glass
transversely, is generally from above to below; and it appears evident to me, that the
plates or sections of glass interposed between the veins have been produced by as ma-
ny difll rent flow ings of the fluid matter. The formation of the earthy veins I conceive
to have been as follows : the first stream, that is to say the lowest of all, containing lighter
and less fusible particles than the remainder of the licpiefied vitreous matter, these float-
ed on the top ; and the glassy current, cooling, produced, or rather left on the surface,
a first pulverous coating, which prevented the perfect union of the second current that
succeeded the first ; and this second, containing similar subtile matters, prevented in
like manner the full adhesion of the third, and so of the rest. Thus have successive
flowings of the liquid matter produced the masses of glass we now see, exhibiting those
apparent veins, in which they may be so easily split. But as we shall have occasion to
speak of other glasses, in another place, we shall then have an opportunity to resume the
subject of this peculiar texture.
Such were the observations I made on that rock, and some fragments which had
dillen down from it on the shore; since, though it is composed of hard lava and glass,
vet from the num..'rous fissures in it, caused by congelation, it has sustained many losses.
In fact there is danger that it may become so entirely ruinous as to occasion its fall^ to>
gether with that ot the castle it supports.
IN THB lU'O tlClllII.
t5«^
I cannnt diamiits this subject uUhoiit mcntioniii(^tTrtiiinrirciiin»t.tnccH which iiulurc
mc to Ik lit vc that the inside ol'thin rocli is one pnulii^iouH n>;iss of >;;1;im. The wasvh of
the SCO, by inccsituntly l)catin(j; a^uinht it, have corrotlcd it in ncvcral pl.irrs, hut espe-
cially tuwards the middle, where they have <ormi(l ii npacioui rave rn ; which, as the lower
part of it is covered witli wutcr, I entered in my boat, and iuund that the siidci were reul
and Holid glasa.
In other places, a^uinst which the sea has dashed, and more or less broken the rock,
the m»mc vitreous substance is apparent. If we ascend from the shore to the castle, in
more tlum one place near the road, which lies over lava, we find volcanic plass. In
the small s(|uare, near the house of the commandant, we find it rising above the ground
in Inrjje pieces resembling steps. Great massesi of it likewise project from tlu- ground
within the city, in two pluccit uf which, having caused the earth to be dug into, I found
the same glass.
All these facts and observations appear to me sufficiently to support my opiiuon, whicli
is I have said, is, that the inside of this vast rock is entirely of glass. We perceive
therefore that though on making the circuit of the other parts of the island, we should
not be able satisfactorily to ascertain its nature, these facts alone would be more than
sufficient to prove it volcanic ; and an intelligent, though indolent traveller, who on ar-
riving at Lipari should only take the trouble to go over the city, would perceive, in a
few hours, what in many other countries, once subjected to the action of fire, he would
not be able to discover in a much greater number of days.
F«ut the indubitable testimonies of the ancient existence of fire in this place do not
conclude here. The vitreous substances are frc<|uently accompanied by pumices which
are, in fact, only an imperfect glass. If we view the steep masses of glass and lava,
which rise perpendicularly from the sea, like a wall ; we |)erceivc that tlicy are inter-
spersed with different strata of pumice, from which, by the aid of a pole tipped with
iron, small pieces may be broken ofl^ On the shore, however, wc do not find it in any
great quantities.
This pumice is of two kinds, the one heavy and compact, the other light and porous,
and both of a cinereous colour. The compactness of the former species, however, is
not so great, but it may be broken into small pieces, and crumbled into powder between
the fingers. It is dry and rough to the touch, is filamentous in many niaccs, and crackles
between t'.ie teeth ; qualities appertaining to common pumices. Its structure is not
ever}' where filamentous, but in some places so fixed that its fibrous texture cantiot be
discerned. By the aid of the lens we perceive that it is of a vitreous nature, and discovers
an infinity of lucid points, which we might take for very minute feltspars, did not a
careful examination with a good magnifier shew them to be real particles of glass. It
cannot be denied, that this pumice is of the same nature with the lava of the rock,
since we see, in many places, the lavu gradually lose its solidity and fineness of grain,
and assume the characters of this species of pumice.
The other kind is rather scaly than filamentous, and its scales have a degree more of
vitrification than the other ; the confluence, likewise, of some of these scales has pro-
duced, in several places, small lumps of a black glass. It is, however, extremely light
in consequence of the pores and vacuities with which it abounds. This pumice is
usually a continuation of the other, and, in my opinion, derives its origin from the greater
degree oi heat which it has sustained.
* After having examined, and attentively considered on the spot, this mixture of lava,
Rlass, and pumice, which forms the body of the rock, it appears evident to me that there
have been several currents that have flowed down the sides, and, pcihaps, from the sum-
_»>*
<
16(i
SPALLANZANIS TRAVELS
nit, of the contip;uoii8 mountain dclla Guardia, into the sea, since the direction of their
descent is found on that side, and even the filaments of the pumices point towards that
mountain.
If we except those minute globules, which appear to me to be portions of lava, this
lava, glass and pumice, exhibit ncitlier feltapars, shoerls, nor any ot'^er extraneous
body ; either because these have been melted by the fire, or, perhaps, because they never
existed in them. But in what manner this fire must have acted in fusing those masses
of feltspar of which the rock that supports the castle of Lipari is formed, so that this
stone should now have remained a simple lava, and now have passed into the state of
glass or pumice, shall be considered in another place ; at present I shall proceed to state
other facts analogous to the same subject.
The lava and glass of the rock, when exposed to the furnace in separate crucibles,
fused into a light gray glass, the globules wliich before appeared in them melting at the
same time. This glass is incredibly porous. Though the crucible in which these sub-
stances were fused was only filled to one quarter part^of its contents, they swelled so
much when in a state of liquefaction, that they rose sevaral lines above the edges of the
crucible, and flowed over, down its sides.
The two kinds of pumice, though both derive their origin from the same feltspar,
which is the base both of the lava and the glass, aflford different results in the same fire ;
since their volume instead of augmenting is diminished, only retaining its former colour.
The tumefaction or inflation of this glass may, perhaps, excite some surprise ; since
it implies a prodigious quantity of gaseous bubbles contained within it ; whereas nothing
of the kind is observable in it, when it is acted on by the fire. But we shall see here-
after that this is an appearance common to almost all glasses and compact volcanic ena-
mels, and which I shall consider w ..n I come to speak of the nature of the gaseous sub-
stances that frequently tumefy more or less different volcanic products : at present my
object is only to state and compare facts. I shall only say that I have never met with
any thing similar in the re-fusion, not only of common factitious glass, but even of that
which is sometimes produced in the furnaces for baking bricks and tiles. A few years
ago a large piece of glass was put into my hands which was said to be volcanic, but of
which I entertained doubts, since, though in its great weight and hardness it resembled
the volcanic glasses, it difflitd from them in certain spots and blueish streaks, and in i\
kind of little stars which scen^.v' to indicate a principle of crystallization in this glass;
neither of which appearances 1 ever observed in the glasses of volcanjs ; and on a care-
ful examination, to discover uith e'.7tainty its origin, I found that tliis glass had been
brought from a tile-kiln. When re melted in a glass furnace it retained itsfnrmer so-
lidity and compactness, without exhibiting the smallest pore or bubble; and instead of
swelhng in the crucible, and assuming a convex superficies, it sunk, and acquired a con-
cave one. I have obstrved the same in two othc r similar glasses.
The haven of Lipari forms a curve in the shore, which to the south begins at the
foot of the Monte Capiscello, and ends to the north-east at the bottom of the Monte
della Rosa. Aiter having thercibre examined that part of the shore which is contiguous
to the harbour, lying luider the castle, and on the right side of Monte Capiscello, I made
the circuit of the remainder of that curve to the base of Monte della Rosa. The ob-
jects which here attracted my notice were first a tufa above a lava, which the industrj of
the inhabitants had :onvcrtcd into a soil suitable to small vineyards ; and next a mass of
crags and precipices, partly tallen into the sea, and partly threatening to fall, among
which, besides scoriae of an iron colour, we meet with beautiful volcanic breccias of a
lava of a petrosiliceou s base , and containing small particles of glass and pumice.
m of their
wards that
r lava, this
extraneous
they never
)se masses
0 that this
he state of
:ed to state
crucibles,
[ting at the
these sub-
swelled so
dges of the
[\e feltspar,
1 same fire ;
mer colour,
rise ; since
eas nothing
11 see here-
)lcanic ena-
Aseous sub-
present my
;r met with
even of that
A few years
jnic, but of
: resembled
(s, and in i\
this glass ;
d on a care-
is had been
s Ihrmer so-
d instead of
uired a con-
cgins at the
the Monte
contiguous
cllo, 1 made
The ob-
: industr} of
;xt a mass of
fall, among
sreccias of a
lice.
IN THE TWO SICILIL!
161
I cannot think of this place without shuddering at the dreadful danger to which I
should have been exposed had I visited it two days later. T was there on the 21st of
September, and examined the breccias which had fallen down on the shore, and those,
much more numerous, and more deserving attention, whicli remained still attached to
the rugged declivity that d< scends into the sea. On the 23(1 in the afternoon, almost
the whole of this declivity fell down with a dreadful crash, I was at that time taking
my afternoons nnp in the house which had been politely appointed for my reception by
the consul of Lipari, and is situat< d on the shore of the harbour. The noise immedi-
ately waked me, and at first I could not tell whether it was a violent clap of thunder, ati
earthquake, or the roaring of the waves in a tempest. I ran to the \vindow, and perceiv-
ed that it came from the declivity I have described, but could discern nothing but an
immense cloud of dust i)y which it was covered. The noise lasted, perhaps, five mi-
nutes; and when the cloi.i -A dust Ikad somewhat dispersed, I perceived it was occa-
sioned by a prodigious quantity of stones that had fallen down into the sea, and that a
great number continued still falling.
Two sensations, on this occasion, most powerfully affected my mind ; the one of
shuddering and horror on reflecting that my destruction must have been inevitable had
I postponed my visit to this place two days and a half, and the other of satisfaction and
joy at my fortunate escape.
The fall of so great a quantity of stones, produced a large longitudinal furrow in the
declivity, and a small indentation in the sea. The next day I procured several of these
stones, and found that they were pieces of lava, partly of the horn -stone base, and
partly of that of feltspar. The latter had a fine grain, and some transparency when in
thin pieces ; the former were of a coarser grain, and opaque. When 1 went in the boat
to examine the part of the mountain where tlkese stones had fallen, I perceived that it
\ras formed of loose volcanic stones, which were very liable to fall from the steepness of
the declivity, and I judged them to be fragments of lava, detached by length of time,
from a more elevated rock, and afterwards accumulated below, at a little distance from
the sea.
Having arrived at thf foot of the Monte della Rosa, where, as I have said, the har-
bour of Lipari ends, I perceived on the shore a stone, which, from its singularity, drew
my attention. It forms a rock that in part rises above the sea, and in part is concealed
by the water. There are also several detached pieces of it which have been made round
by the action of the waves. I, at first, took it tor a jasper. Its ground was of a blood-
red colour ; it gave sparks strongly with steel, was of a rather fine grain, and had almost
the hardness of quartz. When I first saw it, it reminded me of the jasper I had ob-
served and collected at Schemnitz in Lower Hungary, under the hill Calvario, and of
which some specimens are preserved in the Imperial Museum, it appearing to me that
these two stones were extremely similar ; but on a more attentive examination, I per-
ceived that thii stone was not simple like the jasper, but of a compound formation, con-
taining in it redd'sh scales of fehspar, and shoerls, which gave it the character of that
kind of porphyry which has for its base a hard horn- stone. But is this porphyry in a
natural state, or in that of lava ? Lavas of a red, and a bright red, colour, I confess,
I had never before seen, nor do I know that they have been observed by any other natu-
ralist ; and I therefore doubt whether the detached red porphyry I found at Stromboli
had ever suffered the action of the fire. It is true that many lavas near the stoves of
Lipari and elsewhere have this colour, as wc shall see in the following chapter ; but
this arises from the decomposition they have suffered by the force of sulphureous acids,
and the action of iron: and I shall there shew that xht red coJour (and the same may be
VOL. V. y
> ;
M
■1
i:^
•y,
II;.,
.:!
-'S'"i
0
m
m
3s:!
11'
16:2
.jl'Al.rAXT: \M
iWW LL:
said of the \\ liite, ii;ra n. :\)id othi r 'lolmirs) has only nciu'tratcil as i\\v as the action of these
neids, and, eonsc<]uently, tht d« eon1p(^^i^ion, has i \tt nded ; hut where the lava reniaiiiH
untonehc d by them, it still mains its natural colour, that is, either a pay or titccolotn-of
lead or iron, but \\ithoutan\ mixture ofrid. \\ •; lo uvit, how «ver, discover any traces
ofdt( (Miiposiiioa in the jnoduetion olwliieh I no. ,peak. Aftir the most ear( ftil vxatni-
nation, I cannot *. \elude it Irom the innubcr of t. ue and real lavas ; thoiipjh, on the other
hand, I ant unable to allirni that its nchuss is an elVeet of caleination, us is the case in
other lavas, since of this it do< s not ( \hioit the sli^htesi indication. Wo must here, tlu re-
fore, ha\e recourse to one (W those hmitations which ex pi ritiice has obliyjed us to admit
in man} other ruKs of philosophx, which wirc at hrst thonjrhi to be absolutely gi'n< '■•bbnt
afttrwards founil to be subject to more than one exciption. 'i'hc reasons of fact on
xvhieh I found m\ assi riion, that this porph) ritic rock has passid into the state of lava, are
two: the t;Teat number of minute cells ii contains in ni.iin parts of it, and the dircc
tion of those cells. Where local circumstances are insuHicieni to determine, the com
pact lavas rarely leave the in<|uirir in doubt whether the} derixe their origin from fire,
as ihe tire has not so elianj;i d them as to destro} the characters of the stone froni uhlcli
they Wirt pnxlueid. Hut it is not the same with the «'ellular, since it is knov,? ;hat
their eonfigiu'ation can only be the iftlet of aerilorm fluids, put in motion In th« . 'ion
cl the fire. Tliis cellular coiilormaiion is found in the present stone. The eeiis in
many large pieces are so numerous, as to occupy nearly one half of the \olunu.' of the
stone. The laracst arc about five lines, and the smallest a (juarter of a line ; but l)c-
tween dicse two extremes there are an infinity ol intermediary sizes. It is worthy of
remark, that these cells are not only superficial, but extend into the iuttrnal j)art of
the mass, as is seen in fractures two or three feet in depth, which may serve to obviate
the obje. e tion that even stones not of \ olcanic origin are seimetiuics cellular, since it is
known that their cells of nunute ca\ ilics are merely superficial, and originate from tiie
corrosion of sotnc e>f their external parts, by the filtration of the rain-water. This
proof is supported by another still stronger, taken fremi the direction of the cells, which
m the same in all. as well m tlie pieces detached fre)m the rock, and deprived of their
sharp edges h\ the wave s, as in the re)ck itself. This direction is every where found to
be from the Monte dtlki Rosa to the sea, as they form ellipses more or less acute, the
greater diamet. rs ni' w hich arc invariably in that positie)n, and this greater diameter is
irequenil} twice fir three times the Icngtii of the less. This stone, therefore, is not
only a true por],h}ri;ic la\a, but it is evident that it once flenved from the moiintain
above-mentioned lo the sea, and in its motion the natu"ally circular figure of its pores
or cells was changed into an ox al. I liaxc uhiiost aliw a} s observed the same appearance,
on a smaller scale, in re-melted lavas, and glasses. As long as the matter in fusion re-
mains within the crucible , the bubbles are orbicular, but become elliptical in that part
of it which overflow ing the idges ruiis down thi side of the crucible; and the greater
diameter of these ellipses Js generally in the dircctiem oflhatsielc.
All the pieces of this kinel ol la\a are not, however, of a blood-red colour; some
©f them are of a duller red, though the component principles e>f both arc essentially the
same.
This lava, when fused inthefumace, doubled its volume, and its upjXT part assumed
a vitreous convexity ,, which was smooth, sliining, semi-transparent, and of a greenish
tincture ; but ir.tvinall} it was a ver}- black viireouij scoria, extremely porous, and suf-
ficicntl}- hard to give sparks with steel.
With these observations on this uncommon species of lava, I shall conclude the ac-
oount of my tour round the harbour of Lipuri, which may cxtemd about two miles.
IN IHI- I WO SICIf, H.f..
ior>
Accoidin)j; lo my pjoposcd plan, I was nf)\vto proceed tn make tlu rirrnitnf the island,
uhichl did, taking my departure immediately I'rom the loot of Monte della Hos;i, and
proceedinj^tovaids the north.
At the distance ol'snnuwhat more than three hnndre(1 feet a lofty roek rises from
the sea of a horrid and dreadful aspect, form(cl of lari^e plates of stone, feebly snp
ported by proj'.etinfj^ points, and appearini'; to hang; in (he air, and threatening to fall, as
many have already, the fragments ol \vhi( h are seen on the shore. I must candidly eon-
less, (hat, after the fall of tlnrock I have already mentioned, I approat 'ted this with no
snjall dread. My ardour toniake some new discoveries, however, triumphed; ainl, as
I was afterwards lre(|uently o1)lig( d to risk myself in similar situations, in order toex-
anune accurately the shores of the island, I gradually a<(iuired an habitual courage, and
became almost incapable of any idea of danger. I hope I may be pardoned this little
digression.
I'he lv)lian isles, especially Lipari, Felieuda, and Alieuda, arc, at their basis, more
or less corroded by the sea, which, there, isso frccpiently in a state of violent agitation.
The lower excavations cause the parts abo'< e them to give way, and, in a s( ries of years,
great masses IJI into the sea. To this the nature of the lava, which is full of cracks and
fissures, considerably contributes; not to mention the influence of the humidity of the
atmosphere, and other destructive elements. Large heaps of these fragments, in coujC-
quence, accumulate on the shore, where they are dispersed by the waves, and make room
for others, and thus a gradual diminution of the island takes place.
These corrosions of the water, these fis^isres, and fragments of the stones and rocks
arc, however, peculiarly interesting to the in(|uiriug naturalist, who, though he may
make important discoveries while traversing the siinmiits and sides of volcanic regions,
can never penetrate beyond the surface. The internal eft'ects (.f the fire, the substances
more or less modified by it, and sometimes ])rodigiously changed, even to the entire an-
nihilation of the character of die original stone-, and many other combinations produced
in the subterranean recesses, by this ever active element, can only be known by ineava-
tions and fractures which exceed die strength of man to eflect, but which, to a certain
degree at least, are in many places produced by the sea. Of this we have already men-
tioned some instances, observed in making the circuit of the shores of the other islands,
and shall adduce others in those which yet remain to be described ; we have also a
very remarkable example before us, in the half-destro}'ed rock of which we are now
speaking.
Above, it is covered with a thick coating of earth, which prevents its true character
from being visible ; but on the shore it may be very distinctly seen, and appears to be
formed of a lava, in thick strata, taking an oblitpie direction to the sea. This lava is
likewise porphyritic, of a petrosiliceous base, containing crystallized feltspars, and, like
the other rock I have before mentioned, of a red, but rather a dull red colour. It is not
in the least porous, but extremely compact and solid, and is consecjueutly extremely-
heavy, and rather of a siliceous than earthy grain. It lies on the shore in large pieces;
the solidity and beauty of which, when well polished, would render it a no less splendid
ornaineni in buildings than the porphyries which are not vcjleanic.
The degree of heat which fuses the other porphyritic lava is only sufficient to soften
the present, and make it take the shape' of the inside of the crucible and adhere strongly
to its sides. It then assumes a black colour, and loses its compaetnebs, becomes tilled
with small round bubbles. In a more intense heat, it melts into an enamel, in like man-
ner black and filled with bubbles : the feltspars, however, reinuiu untouched, as in tlic
enamel produced from tlie other porphvritic lava.
y 2
i (
;;i
%
MnuuHHOKBHaHi
164
SPATLANZANl's TRAVELS
Continuing my tour beyond the harbour and the porphyritic rock, I found the sea
form a khid of bay within the land, round which a few cottages are built, aflbrding shel-
ter to a small number of inhabitants who live by the profits of a vineyard that but ill re-
pays their labour. The name of this place is Canneto ; and above it is a current of lava,
of an argillaceous base, similar to that of the Arso in Ischia.* This lava is not con-
tinued without interruption, but, like that of Ischia, broken, uneven, and here and there
raised into a kind of little hills. Its external appearance is, on a larger scale, that of a
field ploughed, with several furrows in an irregular direction, having great hillocks and
deep inttrvals between them. I have observed this appearance in several other la;as
bciide the present and that of the Arso; and the cause of such a conformation may, it
appears to me, be the following : It frequently happens that the lavas, when they flow,
meet with impediments in their way which obstruct their course. When, therefore,
such an obstacle occurs the stream must stop, or its motion become slower ; but this
not taking place in the parts behind, they continue to flow and increase the quantity of
the lava which swells in that place, and, in consequence of its contact with the cold air,
soon loses its fluidity, and is congealed into stone. The liquid lava, in the meantime,
takes its course another Avay, if the obstacle is insurmountable ; and if it meets with
others, new stoppages or retardations are the consequence, producing other tumours;
and thus the lava in many places becomes full of hillocks. It may likewise be, that the
lavas flowing over places abounding with cavities, of which there are many in volcanic
mountains, may partly sink into them, and thence afterwards rise somewhat above the
former level, and thus produce the small elevations which are here observable.
I had now continued my tour, in the boat, till I approached Campo Bianco (the White
Field) distant three miles Irom the haven of Lipari, and so called because it is a lofty
and extensive mountain composed entirely of white pumices. When seen at a distance,
it excites the idea that it is covered with snow from the summit to the foot. Almost
all the pumices that are employed for various purposes in Europe are brought from this
immense mine, and Italian, French, and other vessels continually repair hither to take in
cargoes of this commodity : the captain of the ship which had brought me to Lipari,
had sailed from Marseilles to carry back a freight of this merchandize. I was not, how-
ever, actuated merely by those motives of curiosity that might induce any traveller to
visit this remarkable mountain ; I proposed to examine it with the eye of a philosopher
and a naturalist.
The pumice-stone, with respect to its origin, though universally admitted to be the
product of fifv, is one of those bodies which have divided the opinions of chemists and
naturalists both ancient and modern. It may, in fact, be affirmed that it has gi> en rise
to as many hypotheses and extravagant suppositions, as the question formerly so much
agitated, relative to the nature of the yellow and gray amber. Without uoliciny; the
more absurd of these, I shuU only mention that Pott, Bergmm\, and l)eme>tc in>agii)cd
that pumices were amianthuses decomposed by the fire ; vV'allci iv\s, that they were coal
or schistus calcined; Sage, that they were scorified murles ; and, lasll}, the commen-
datorDolomieii, that they were granites nndered tumefied and fibrous by the action of
the fire and aeriform substances.
The most tflectuiil method to investigate the truth in so obscure a question, appeared
tome to make the most accurate and minule ubsctvalions oil the spot; to collect and
attentively examine the pumices most suitable to this purpose, and to make further ex-
* See chap. V.
I
IN IMF, TWO SJClLir.3.
163
perimcnts on them after my return to Pavia ; which practice I likewise observed with
respect to the other volcanic products.
Campo Bianco is a mountain that rises ahnost jierpendicularly from the sea, and
which, seen at a distance, appears to be about a quarter of a mile in hti}i;ht, and abovo
half a mile in breadth. No plants grow on it, except a few which bear no fruit, and
likewise grow on the lops of the Alj)s. Its sides are streaked with a great number of
furrows, that grow deeper and wider as they approach the bottom, and liavc been form-
ed by the rains, which easily corrode and exca\ate a substance so soft and yielding as
pumice. The sea at the foot of it has likewise occasioned great devastations, by means
of which we discovered a large vein of horizontal lava on which the last waves die away
when the sea becomes calm. The formation of this lava was, thercfoie, prior to the vast
accumulation of pumic^ s which rest upon it.
On attentively viewing this prodigious mass of pumice, we soon perceive that it is not
one solid whole, and forming only one solid single piece ; but that it is an aggregation
of numerous beds or strata of pumices, successively placed on each other ; which beds
are distinguishable by their colour, and in many places project from the mountain.
They are almost all disfiosed horizontally, and their position is not dissimiku* to the
stratifications so frequently met with in calcareous mountains. Each bed of pumice does
not lorm a distinct whole, which might lead us to suppose that they had flowed at dif-
ferent intervals, and every current produced a bed orstrtUum; but it consists of an ag-
gregate of balls of pumice united together, but without adhesion. It is hence evident
that the pumices were thrown out by the volcano in a state of fusion, and took a glt)bose
form in the air, which they preserved at the time of their sudden congelation. We fiixd
many such eruptions oi pumices in the Phlegrean Fields ; as, for example, that w hich
overwhelmed and buried the unfortunate town of Pompeii. The excavations which
have been mack to exhibit to view some parts of that city, manifestly shew, that re-
peated ejections of small pumices in immetjse (juantities from Vesuvius, have covered
it with vast accumulations of thit substance, disposed in different beds or strata.
A great quantity of these Lipartse pumices, of a globular form, arc first met with on
the shore near Campo Bianco ; but as I doubted whether the action of the waves might
not concur to produce the roundness of their figure, I rather chose to make my observa-
tions on those that actually iormed the beds, which I did, by climbing up one of the
sides where the ascent, thougii difficult, was not impracticable. Here I found pumices
approaching, some more some less, to the globular fi)rm, and of diflerent sizes, somj
not being larger than nuts, and others a foot or more in diameter, witii innumerable
between these extremes. Though the ground colour of them all is white, in some
clines to yellow, and in others to gray. They swim in water, do not give spar!
steel, DOT cauae the least motion in the magnetic needle. Their iracture is
rough to the touch, their angles and thirmer parts are slightly transparent >fS(
texture in all of them when viewed through the lens, appears vitreous ; bu^wj^teSti
has diversities which it will be proper to s^xjcify. // .^^''^ "^
Some of these pumices are so compact that the smallest pore is not vifei1>le
nor do they exhibit the least trace of a filamentous Jiature. When vi^yi^ed
lens with a strong light, they appear an irregular accumulation of smaliki,ik(
their compactness, however, does not prevt nt their swimming on the watcK.
Others are full of pores, and vacuities of a larger size, usually of a round fi^
their texture is formed by filaments and streaks, in gtii*;rdl parallel to each other, of a
shining silver whiteness ; and which, at firsr • k-w, might seem to be silken, did they not
present to the touch the usual roughness of tine pu*Bice.
! ;
1
'!
.1^
1G6
aPAl.LANZAKlS TRAVELS
These var'iclios arc not only <bscrvahlt' iiidincrtnt fj^lobcs of pumice, but frequently
in the siunc : it is tin rcfore indubitable that these dilUrences are not intrinsical and
essential to the nature of pumices, but accidental, and arising from the action of aeri-
form fluids, which, dilutinji; tlieni in many places, when they were in.a state of fusion,
have produced that multitude of pores, and those filaments and subtile streaks that de-
note a separation of the parts; whereas the other pumices which have not been acted
on by thtse gases, hwc preserved that compactness which results from the force of ag-
grc-}>;ation.
'i'he fractures of the compact pumices arc, in some ])laces, shaded with a blackish^
but at the s;\iT»e time shining tinge; which, when carefully examined, is found to dc
caused by a greater, though still a very slight degree of vitrification of the pumice itself;
eitlu r because the fire has there acted with somewhat more force, or because the parts
were there mcjre easily > itrifiablc.
The pumices hitherto described form one of the species which the Liparese sell to
foreign trade rs.
N(ine ol" these, so far as can be discerned by the eye, or even with the assistance of the
lens, contain any extraneous bodies; but were we too hastily to conclude that they
really do not, wt should commit an error, as their vitrification by artificial means will
pro\ e. When kept in the furnace during an hour they become only more friable and
of a reddish yellow colour ; but when continued in the same heat for a longer time, they
condense into a vitreous and semi-transparent mass, within which appear a number of
small w lute Itltspar cr}'stals that were not visible in the pumice, because they were of the
saujc colour. These stones, however,, are not seen in every pumice thus fused ; either
because- it did not contain them, or because they have melted into one homogeneous
muss w ith the pumice. This is one of the many important cases in which we are able,
by the means of common fire, to discover the composition of volcanic products which
had at first been supposed to be simple.
But to render complete my inquiries relative to the pumices of Campo Bianco, it
Mas necessary that I should not confine my researches merely to the part of the- mouniaiu
1 have mentioned, but extend them to all the principal places where they might be found.
This I did, accompanied by two natives of Lipari, whose assistance was particularly
useful to me, as they lived by digging pumice, and were well acquainted with every j)art
ol the mountain, and the difterent kinds of pumices it contained. Ii is impossible lode-
scribe the difficulties I met with in these excursions. We frecjuently passed along the
edges of the deep ditches made by the rain-water, at the hazard, in case of a false step,
of falling into them, and not easily getting out again ; or the still greater danger of
precipitating into the sed. The dazzling whiteness of the pumice,e(iiuil tothatof snow,
increased my fears ; for I made my excursions in the day-time, when the sun shone, and
was strongly reflected b}' these stones. Kvery one knows thai snou , besides dazzling
the sight, is accompanied with the inconvenience, wlien it is deep and has lately fallen,
that the person w ho walks on it sinks into it to a greater or less dej>th : and the same
inconvenience is exjierienced from the pumice, which in many parts of Campo Bianco
ib ricUued to a powder several feet deep, and, when the wind blows on it, sinks in on
one sid*., and is heapcel up on the other. All tivese difliculties and obstacles I however
surmounted, animated by that ardour which inspires the philosophical traveller, and en.
ables Inmio brave the greatest dangers, and such as can onl) be known and appreciated
by those who iiave engiiged in similar undertakings. 1 can .Hirni, thereU>re, widi great
suiistaciion, ihut widi ihe assistance and guidance ol he i wo Lip- r se, there wa^ no corner
of the mountain that J did not visit ; and when 1 rcucaed the .siuninu, and saw that it
, ♦■•^
iquently
leal and
of acri-
' i\ision,
tliat dc
en acicd
:e ol'ag-
)Inckish«
ul to tc
ce itself;
the parts
e sell to
cc of the
that they
cans will
able and
me, they
imber of
;re of the
1; cither
jgeneous
are able,
ts which
lianco, ic
noumain
X' found,
rticularly
very jjart
)le 10 de-
alon{2^ the
uisc step,
[anger of
of snow,
lone, and
dazzling
:ly fallen,
the same
o Bianco
ks in on
however
•, and en.
prcciatid
lith great
IK) corner
w that it
IN rifE TWO SICILIES,
ir,7
joined anoflicr mountiiin, the foot of which was in die sen, and whii'h w is, in like mm.
ner, composed ol'|n.nnee, I extended my researches to tliat likewise, and ex iininid t!i'
(11(11 rent species of pumice it allordt d, or rather which composi: a V' ry coiisidi r.i'ilv p ul
of it. 1 shall procet-d lo desiribe (lieni severally, with as muchlirevity as possihk.
I shall first menlion those which constitute a branch of comuieree at Lip.iri, and are
applied to various purjiosis. One of these has already bicn sullicicutly deserilKd : I
shall only add, thatii i. found in considerable (piantities in Camjjo Bianco, but solely in
detached pieces, and not for\ning currents or veins; whence it is evident that it has
been ejeetid from the volcano, and has not flowed in the manner of lava.
The second speci's 5s cut by the labourers in parallcloj)ipeds, about twenty-two inches
long, and eight broad. This pumice is of a dark dirty colour, contains no extraneous
bodies, gives a few sparks with steel, and is st> light that some pieces of it will float on
the water. It is formed by agglomeration of pumiceous bubbles, whiL;!i arc as it were,
conglutinated together, and incline more or less to an oblong figure. To detail their
various sizes would In useless prolixity. 1 shall only say, that from the very minute,
and, if I may so term them, infinitesimal, they increase in size till some of them exceed
an inch in diameter, hough the latter are less numerous than the former. They arc
all extremely friabl* .;s their sides are very thin, and always semi-vitreous. The glass
of many of them is uiiite, and has some transparency, but in others is dull, and almost
entirely opaque.
As I do not know that this species of pumice has ever been described before though
it certainly well deserves attention, I would wish my descri|)tion to be as clear and expli-
cit as possible. It has been already said that many lavas, and other volcanic productions,
on re-fusion, become cellular. To apply this to the pumice in question would be an
error. A lava, which has undergone this change by the action of elastic gases, continues
to form one whok, though interrupted by these multiplied pores. The pumice of
which I now speak is principally formed by an accumulation of small vitreous vesicles,
which attach thtmscUes to each other while they are yet soft from the action of the fire;
and which, from their globose figure, not adhering except in a few points, have left
many vacuities very vssible in the fraclure of the pieces. The labourers who dig 'hesc
pumices, after they have shaped tiiem into parallelopipi ds, take them on tluir bucks and
cany them down to the shore, w here they pile them up in large heajis, to be ready for
sale when ojjportunity shall oftir. We are not to imagine, however, that this species
ot pumice is to be found in every part of the mountain : th(.' workmen, to find what
they call the vein of it, are obliged to make great excavations, and irequently with-
out success, which, as they told me, in this case, as in fishing for coral, often de-
pends on chance. When they have found the vein they dig it, following its diix^ction ;
in which laborious employment a number of men are occupied for whole weeks, the vein
being sometimes a hundred and fifty, two hundred, or even three hundred feet long,
and large in proportion. These veins are called Faraglioni. I have examined them,
and satisfied myself, that the accounts I received were true. Pumice dust, and large
heaps of the first species of pumice, witu some scattered vitrifications, usually cover
these veins, which, when viewed with the attentive eye of the naturalist, invc reason to
believe that they are long tracts of pumice, which once flowed in a liquid state.
'I'heir bubbles, frequently lengthened in the direction of the vein, seem likewise to prove
the same.
M. Dolomieu, who first suggested that many pumices have flowed in currents like
lavas, observed that at Campo Bianco the lighter pumices lie above the heavier ; in the
same mumier as ia the commoa currents of luvu the porous kvus occupy the liighest
'A
'l
f
ril
i^^
168
;:PALLANZAN1'3 TIlAVEtfi
p)acc. I have certainly observed this Uispositioii ; but sometimes it proves lallacious .
for if the excavation lie contiiuitil below the vein which forms the second species of pu
mice, we freqiicnlly aj^ain find masses of extremely hght and pulverulent pumice.
The first action of the fire of the furnace thickens the sides of the vitreous vesicles, ol
the second species, and diminishes the internal pores. A longer continued heat entirely
annihilates tlu pores, and changes the pumice into a fixed, obscure, homogeneous, and
hard glass, v\ hith gives sparks plentifully with steel.
The third species is likewise an object of traflic with the natives of the island, who dig
it in the sam ' s where they find the second ; and in like manner, shape it into pa-
rallelopipedo, his is likewise an aggregate of bubbles, but differing from those of
the former in ...uil respects. Those, as we have seen, are conglutinated together in
some points, while they arc separated in others, so that wc can freciuently detach them
\\ithout breaking; while these, on the contrary, arc so incorporated by difl'erent solid
points, that if we attempt the separation of one, wc break the others that are contiguous.
Here the elastic gases, investing the pumaceous substance in several points, have ex-
panded it in e\ ery part into tumours and cavities, nearly as wc see in raised and baked
paste. It is worthy remark, that frequently when we break one vesicle, we meet with
another v/ithin it, and concentrical. There is likewise another difference between these
two pumices. 1'he vesicles of the second species are all more or less vitrified ; but many
of the third shew no signs of \ itrification, arc extremely friable, and of a pale red
colour.
This pumice, though destitute of any fibrous texture, is specifically lighter than water.
To obtain it, large pieces of white pumice, of the first species, in which it is enveloped,
must be removed ; and it commonly lies in long tracts, in the direction of which its ve-
sicles are sometimes lengthened, which may induce us to suspecl that this likewise, when
it was liquid, formed small currents. It contains no extraneous bodies.
In the furnace it condenses into an obscure mass of glass, almost opaque, but little po-
reus, and sufficiently hard to give sparks with steel.
These are the three kinds of pumice which the people of Lipar'i dig for sale. The
first is employed in polishing different substances, and the other two arc used in the con-
struction of arched vaults, and on tiie corners of buildings. There arc, however, other
species which deserve the attention of the naturalist, aud which I shall here proceed to
describe.
On Campo Bianco, and in its environs, we find a fourth species of pumice, of a fila-
mentous and extremely black texture. It is rough to the touch, scarcely at all porous,
so heavy as to sink in v/ater, and gives sparks moderately with steel. This pumice like-
wise contains no extraneous substances. Though when viewed in the mass it appears
entirely opaque ; its filaments when detached, and examined by a strong light, appear to
be transparent, and only dark from their black colour. The second and third species
are vesicular ; but in this there are not any vesicles. The threads or filaments of which
this fourth species is composed have all one direction, which is that of the current. It
is here necessary to observe, that though this black pumice is found scattered on the
sides of Campo Bianco, in a rock which descends almost perpendicularly into the sea,
it forms an entire vein almost horizontal, which enlarges from the breadth of seven feet
to twelve, and is above sixty feet in length. If we here examine the structure of this
pumice, we shall find that, besides being filamentous, as we have before described it, its
filaments preserve a parallelism among themselves, and the direction of them ail is from
the mountain to the sea ; there can therefore be no doubt but this vein may l>e consi-
dered as a true current of pumice.
!i i>
IN TirE TWO 3ICIML5.
16U
:li them
I was at first inclined to bcllcvf that the bhick colour of thisj)Uiaicc proceeded from
J"ron, hut afterwards suspected that it was rather the effect of a bituminous substance,
from the stronjr scent of bitumen which it emitted on rul)binj^two pieces of it top^ethcr;
and my suspicion was afterwards confirmed by its losini; its black, and acquiring a white
colour, by remaining a short tmic iu the furnace ; on a ionjj^er continuunce it became a
vitreous paste.
But among the diflferent productions of this nature, there is none which more meritN
attention than th:it of which I now proceed to speak, and from which originate no sniali
part of the pumices of Campo Hianco. This is .i lava, with u feltspar Iiase, which is
foimd over the whole mountain and its environs, rising in rocks and crags of an enor
mous size. It is of a gray colour, of an appearance between siliceous and vitreous, with
a consistence or gmin less fine than that of quartz, having a small degree of transparencj
in the angles, and sufficient hardness, to give sparks w ith steel. On attentively examin
ing this lava, we may distinctly perceive in it the gradual tt msition of the lava into pu
mice. In many pieces of it we find the external appcai mces abovt; deserilitd. In
others the lava lx;gins to soften, and become friable and rou^h to the touch, but witljout
losing its siliceous-vitreous ap|)earance. In many other wc discover the commence-
ment of the pumiceous character. Some small cavities in this lava exIiibU minute
grous of fibres, of a silvery whiteness, light, extremely friable, but only discernible by
the lens. These crackle between the teeth, and rub to powder uncUr the finger ; \mf
at the same time, shew they have a rough grain, and, in a word, prove, by the most in
dubitable marks, that they are real pumice. On breaking other pieces, tin groups
or clusters of fibres are found more fixed and large, so as to occupy a great part of the
lava, which becomes lighter even where there are none of these clusters, since its l< x-
ture becomes thinner, though not at all porous; and here the nail only is sufficient to
scratch and break them, and tlu i ye aceiistonu d to pimiices recognises the charaeleristic
marks of that substance, though they arc nol i.n uppunnt as in the filamentous aggre
gates. Lastly, it is not uncommon to find ni ' i '•/' |ava, whjeh on one side retain the
characters of feltspar, and on the other areeluinij,ed info /lie ilrst species of punuceen
tirely resembling it in colour, lightness, struetine, and its otJiir exterior charaeters. In
this pumice we likewise perceive man) crystalliBi d |e)h»nars, such as we find them iii
:/,
the generative lava, and seemingly not at afl jlilllf/ <) Ujf W flfP*
We thus clearly diseovtr the origin of the f||nl f\l in /||/t»l species of pumice. I must
here remark likewise, that these ni./ti../ j i)\' lava, evMl u|fere they do not appear pumi-
ceous, if they are triturated and pulverised, )»((»(j(|(;r /» |></'vdtr resemljling in every re.
spect, the whiteness of its colour no/ exri pfi cj, IJiut iwlljlj \l\ llln. inantities covers,
unices of the first
If nol rxn I
, and \\lll<:l
I \r |;/()dl/'
11
and lies deep in the mountains
species. The furnace reduce j this pumice ^p 4 kli\i\ ^* a' » '- -^'"'j^'"!? ^^^^^ obtained
from the first species.
All these circumstances concur to prov< illi. li|c|)(||y of this pumice derived from the
feltspar, with that first described. | shall only ii\}Hft\i., that if the greater part of this
kind of pumice has not formed cifrrents, but In in lliroanout at difi'erent times iu de-
tached pieces from the volcanic fUfllace, whdH /Ken before remarked, another portion
has actually flowed ; that, for instance, which in many parts of Campo Bianco is united
to the feltspathose lava.
This lava, however, merits to be considered in another point of view. Hitherto we
have only noticed it as the original oase of pumice, but we shall likewise find it produc-
tive of glass. To be convinced of this, we have only to examine some other pieces from
the same mountain ; some of which, without losing the appemaiice of the feltspar, begin
VOL. V. z
^•df"
i!
170
il'ALLANeANl's rRAVUr.S
to assume the veins of glass, and arc at the same time filled u iih innjimiTaUIr small hnfj-
blcs, thata'rc likewise vitreous. But this glass difllrs from that of the pumices l>y iK'iiig
more perfect, and more transparent. In other |)ieces the bubbles arc lar^^er, and the
small vitreous veins more numerous. On l)reaknijjf a larj^e mass, or follou'injjf the large
veins, we find in some parts gruups of feltspathose lavu, in others pieces of veiiicular
glass, and in others solid glass.
But whence has it hiippencd that the same rock in some places has been changed into
pumice, and in others hiis become glass ? sinoe, thomjh the grater part of pimiices arc
vilrcf)us, their glass is far from being so perfect as thai in question ; which likewise dif.
fers fronj the pinniees in this, that tliough it forms vesicular masses, these masses have
n hardness that can never be compared with the usual friability of pumices.
The origin of thisdilUrenee, it appears to me, may be explained as follows: a certain
degree of licac has produced a semi-vitrilication in the feltspar, which has changed it
into pumice. Such a degree of heat therefore was only sufficient for the production of
this stone; but a stronger, or perhaps a longer continued heat, has produced a complete
fusion, that is, a perfect glass, sometimes aboinuling in bubbles, from the abundance of
the gaseous substances with which it is penetrated.
Seven varitiies of these cellular glasses, which are all of a cinereous colour, having
been exposed for several hours to the furnace, on their re -fusion, were reduced in vo-
lume, and the new glass was consequently deprivedof that multitude of pores it before
contained.
But to return to the pumices : we have now ascertained that there are four species,
of which Campo Bianco and its environs are princii)ally composed.
It may perhaps be objected, that the second and third species which I have described,
do not properly belong to the class of pumices, as they are both vesicular ; whereasone
of the characters of the pimiice is the filamentous texture.
I admit without hesitation, that inany pumices used by arti:;.ts to polish different sub-
stances have this character ; but others, employed for the same purposes, and perhap
in equal quantities, and which no person has ever doubted to be piunices, have no sen-
sible trace of filaments. Ol this every one may convince himself by an inspection of
the pumices usually sold. Besides, even those that are filamentous do not constantly
retain that character; of which the first species furnishes numerous examples. Of this,
large masses are foinid on the shore, e»it by the natives into pieces for sale ; among
which 1 have observed that, though many pieces have the filamentous texture, there
are many others which have it not, either externally or internally. The same I observed
in many of the scattered pieces with which the mountain abumds. It, therefore, the
filamentous texture be not a character essential to the pumice, I did not see u hy the
stones of the second and third species should not be considered as true piunices, since
they bear all the other marks by which the jjumice is characterized. It may be added,
lliatat Lipari, and in commerce, they are denominated pumices, and names adopted by
the arts ought not to be changed without absolute necessity.
From these observations, made at Campo Bianco, we begin to obtain some light rela-
tive to the origin of pumices, since we have seen that those of the first and fifth species
have the feltspar for their base. The same hns likewise been shown of the others con-
tained in the rock on which the castle of Lipari is built. \Vc slid, however, remain in
uncertainty with respect to the second, third, and fourth species, bom their being always
found in the state of complete pumice, and never met within those strata or masses of
lava, which, by shewing the first principles of these pumices, might enable us to discover
the stone (rem which they have originated. To attain this discovery, it was therefore
IN THE TWO atCILlEI.
171
oeccswiry to analyse thosi three s|Kcii.s l)y the humid ntcthod; and thoupfh the base of
the first and fifth species, tiH also of that front tUt rock t)f the eastic of I.i|Kirl, was suffi.
cicnlly evident ; I vet, for the ^rcattr certainty, resolvid ti» subject these hkewihc to the
aanie analysiH ; atid, while employed w this operation, determined at liu- sanur time to
make similar experiments on some pumices of other countries ; that, for instance, wliich
is found in small (lu.mtities in the Ar,o in the i'Jund of Ischia, and two other kinds from
the island of Santorine in the i\rchipelag^), a country certainly v(>lcanic. Hoth the latter
species are whitf.', and Hoat in water j but the texture of the one is compact and eciuablc,
and that of the other full of po-res, andextrctiKly lilamentous.
The following arc the results 1 obUiitied:
FIRST Si'ECIES OF CAMIO BIANCO.
Silex
Alumine
Magnesia
Lime
Iron
Silcx
Alumine
Magnesia
Lime
Iron
Silex
Alumine
Magnesia
Lime
Iron
Silex
Alumine
Magnesia
Lime
Iron
SECOND SPECIES.
THIRD SPECIES.
FOURTH SPiSCIES.
60.3
23
6
9
80
6
S
4.7
4.8
80
4
fl
4
5,Q
84.5
4
3
2.1
4.2
As this fourth species emitted a bituminous odouv; before I analysed it, I subjected
it to distillation, in a sand heat ; from which I obtained a few drops of petroleum that
swam *he water which had collected during the operation hi the recipient of the re-
tori coitteJuing the pulverised pumice.
!
.M
FIFTH SPECIES.
Silex
Alumine
Magnesia
Lime
Iron
e 2
61
22.7
6
5.8
3
17W
UrALLANSANl'M tmKYELit
14
m
HUMICL 01 Tin: KOCK 1)1' TIIL CASTLK OF LII'ARI.
SiKx <J3
Alumiiic 24
Mii^;iK'»iu ......... 5.d
Lime .......-.• 3
Iron 2
l>UMiCE 01' THE ARSO IN ISCIIIA.
Sikx • 54
Almniiic 26
Lime .......... 3
Miij^iicsiii • • • - • • • " • 8-2
Iron 7
I lUb'r PUMItli OF 8ANT0RINE.
Silt'x 66.8
Alimiiiu' 4.2
Magnesia ..-..-... 14.7
Lime . ......... 11
Iron .......... 3
SKCOND PUMICL OF SANTORINE.
Silex 69
Alumine - 3
Magiiehia 19
Lime 6
Iron 2
From these results it appears that the component principles of the first and fifth spe-
cies of pumices of Campo Bianco, as also that of the rock of the Castle of I/ipari, per-
fectly resemble those obtained by the analysis of various feltspars made by diftcrent che-
mists ; among others, by Mayer, Fabroni, Hcyer, Westrumb, and MorcU.
The same agreement would be found in the second, third, and fourth species, were it
not that they contain a greater (|uantity 'of silex, and less of alumine ; which, however,
does not appear to be a suflicient reason for excluding the feltspar from these three pu-
mices ; both because I know no odur stone hitherto discovered, and chemically ana-
lyseu, to which these component principles can be more properly referred than to the
feltspar ; and because, the species of that stone being extremely numerous, it cannot ex-
cite surprise if some should differ a little from others, in the quantities of their constitu-
ent parts, which is the case in every kind of stone.
With respect to the pumice of the Arso in Ischia, it appears evident from its compo-
nent principles, that its base is a horn-stone, from which the current of lava likewise de-
rives its origin.
Lastly, with regard to the two species of pumices from the volcanic isle of Santorine,
it appears, from the analyses adduced, that their base has been an asbestus, or at least
some stone analogous to the asbestus : of this we shall be convinced, if we compare
these two analyses with those made by Bergman of different kinds of the asbestus.*
* Opusc. Phys. Chem. torn. iv.
i
.6
.8
.2
.7
fth spe-
ri, per.
L'lU che-
, were it
owever,
ircc pu-
Jly ana.
I to the
inot ex-
oitstitu*
compo-
w'lsc de.
ntorine,
at least
compare
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)
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6>
#A
1.0
L .'
I.I
!,2 0
11.8
1,25
i_4_ 1
16
p^
^
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Photogi^ciphk;
Scieiuies
Cor[)orcition
23 WEST MAIN S'KEET
WEBSTER N Y 14480
716 872 4b03
'6>
CIHM/ICMH
Microfiche
Series.
CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.
Canadian Institute for Historical Microreprotiuctions ' Instit'it <.anadieii de nucrorHprodiictions historiques
O
IN IHE TWO SIClLlJ.-r.
i;>'
ll'l-'S.
If \vc no'.v proceed to consider ihc various opinions rcliuvi, V) t;,r on;;!!! <n piiiiui
and examine thun l)y llic lacts now stated, we shall certainly liud tl, t the h\ poih -.i-, ^n
tlie Sucdih;.elun»ist, as also of Pottund Denieste, thai pumices ...rn^iuate horn i.u as-
bestuo,isnot uidunit foundation; it is only erroneous in supiK-si'.;.; ihat tluy arc |>n.^
duced from tiu.t exelusively ; since it has been sl.ewn, that the l)a',( (.1 tlu pumi.v^ ol
Campo Hianco, and the rock of the Caslle oi Lipuri is a leltspar, and Unit ol the puuuccs
of the Arso is a horn-stone. , • r i
I loresee that some will with dilHculty be persuaded, diat tlic pnmices of any volca-
noes have for ilieir base either the asbestus or the amianthus, since these two ma.^nesian
stones are ran, and only found in small ciuantitics. But this is a nustakc ; tor we
know, from the inlormation cf naturalists and travellers, that they are both found m many
countries; as in the islands of the Archipela^'o, in Asia, in Persia, and Tartary, not to
m. ntion Savov, Switzerland, and Italy. It is likewise certain that the asbestus is lound
in some countries in such abundance that whole rocks are entirely composed ot it, asm
Siberia. I have some large pieces of asbestus, with parallel fibres, of a greenish .^ray,
and difficult to separate, which were brought to mc a few years ago by one ot my pupiU
from Chiavenna, in the countrj of the Orisons, and taken bv himselt trom Mount Us-
chione, near his native place, which is full of this species of stone. .
When wc speak of pumices with an asbestine or amianthine base, it is always to bt
understood that the volcanic lire which has produced them has been excessively power-
ful ; since we know, from die experiments of D'Arcet, Saussure, and Lhrinann, how
obstinately these stones resist the fire of the furnace when raised to an excessive degree
of heat. The asbestus of Chiavenna, the Genoese territory. Savoy, Corsica, and oilier
countries of Europe, after 1 had kept diem a long time in a glass furnace, still continued
relractory, having onlv lost their } ieldiiig consistence, and their Ikxibility.
From the great aliinity betwee'n some serpentines and the asbestus, I cannot hesitate
to believe, that should die furnace of a volcano bt situated among the Ibrnier, tiiey would
likewise be converted into pumice. , . ,
I cannot, however, bv any means, subscribe to the opinion of Walleruis, diat p-imiees
are coal or schislus calcined; nor to that of M. Sage, that they are lUaig leeous scorut ;
for, with respect to the former, wc have seen that pumices are not lu a state ol calcina-
tion, but of vitrification ; and with regard to the latter, inspection alone is sunicienl to
shew the essential diflerence between pumices and scoriiu.
It now remains to say a word of the opinion of M. Dolomieu, who supposes pumices
to originate from granite. This naturalist having examined with the greatest attention
the pumices found in the places which I afterwards visited, esiJeeiaUy those that had un-
dergone tile least alteration from the tire, since these are most likely to preserve some
di..raeters of their primitive base, made the tbllowin.g observations;
Fust, he tbinid in some a residue of ordiiiarv granite, that is, (juartz, mica, and felt-
spur ; and remarked that these three substances, which, according to him, serve inter-
chai.ge..bU as a flux one to the other, had ae(iuired, by the action of the tire, a species
t)f \ iirilication of a middle nature between that of enamel and that of porcelaine, and
ulncli might be compared to that of a frill, somewhat inflated.
Second)} , he observed, that they gradually assume the tibrous and porous texture, and
the other (lualities of pumice ; whence he concluded that Uie granite and granitous schis-
tus are the primitive substances, which, by the action of the volcanic tire, pass into the
stale of pumice.
Ok m\ iirst arrival at the mountain of pumices, I was, as may be supposed, desirous
to usctrtaiix the truth of this discovery ; aud uot being succcssiui the first time, I returned
17^.
. i I' A I. L A M :: A M ;> T U A V li L 3
■,x'^:\'m anoihor day ; .iiul this second visit provinj^ as little satisrictory as the fonncr, 1
mude two others, but w iih the same ill suce.ess. I exaiuiiu d with tiie fj^ivatest cure ever)
rornerorCampo lii:iiic(), and e\ery other |)art of Lipari where piiniieesare io!)e found ;
and as it vas only nteessury to have eyes to discover immediate ly tliesc f^ranitous ro'jks,
ehan^ed more or less into pumices by the action ol" the fire, h.id they existed; I shall
say, with the freedom of a pl)ilosopher, that I was freejuently tempted to IxTieve that
none were any lonfj;er to be found here, bieause the\ had all been carried away by tlie
Kreneh naturalist.
1 do not, howcAer, mean absolute ly to deny the truth of this dis.;overy (and indeed how
can it be doubted, when M. Dolomieu asserts that he has sent to several men of learn-
ing-specimens of these {franites, which have j^radually passed into the slate of pumice.)
It is consecjuentiy proved that pumices, besides havinijf for their base the horn-stone,
theasl)estus, andthe feltspar, likewise orifrinutc from the common i^ranite. We may
likewise adtl the petrosilex, since the i)umices formerly ejected from Siromboli derive
their origin iVom that stone;* and if natm-alists were to examine the pumices of odier
countries, and to their local observations join chemical analysis, it would perhaps not be
dilHcult to lind pumices which originate from other kinds of stone.
As to the pumices w ith a granitous base, it is obvious to remark tliat the subterraneous
fire which produced them must have been extremely violent, since such must be that
of our furnaces to reduce the granite composed of feltspar, mica, and quartz, to u homo-
geneous eonsistenee, similar to that of perfect pumices. Suflieient proofs of this asser-
tion may be found in chap. XII.
Proceeding from Campo Bianco by sea, and coastint^thc base of the mountain, we
iind the side lying on the left, and which is in like manner composed entirely of pumices,
full of furrows and channels that take their direction to the sea. Other lesser monn-
lains, w Inch are w hite, because they are likewise formed of pumices, join die principal
one, Campo Bianco. Beyond these rises u mountain of another kind, called the Monte
della Castagna, which, in the part of it descending to the sea, is about a mile in extent,
and in its circumference exceeds four miles. But w ho would believe that diis mountain
is entirel)' composed of enamels and glasses ? Before I had read the excellent work of the
chevalier Dolomieu, I knew^ that Lipari abounds in vitrifications, and the reading of
this book confirmed me still more in the idea ; but I was entirely ignorant that they
were accumulated in such immense quantities in one place as to form an entire moun-
tain ; and 1 feel some pleasure in being the first person who has annotmced to the world
ho extraordinary a circiutistance. I shall proceed, therefore, to consider these products ;
first, us they appear on the spot, and afterwards divide them into their species and prin-
cipal varieties.
1 know not to what a tract of these vitrified substances, can be more properly com-
pared, than to a large river, which, breaking into a thousand streams, dashes from height
to height dow n a steep precipice, and, suddenly congealed by excessive cold, freezes,
breaking every where into clefts and fissures, so that the precipice appears covered with
a rough wavy ice, divided into large flakes. Such is the appearance of some jf these
vitrifications on the back of the Monte della Castagna ; but seen from the ^nore the}
have a difterent aspect. In the places where the waves of the sea have produced deep
excavations, we perceive that under this vitreous stratum, divided into flakes or plates,
there are other strata, and beneath diem others, all equally vitreous, but diflering in co-
lour, consistence, and direction. Beneath these there may likewise possibly be others.
* See chup. XI
I V r 11 K 1 wo s I c n. I r. :- .
IT."^
roiucalal Imm tiu> cvc hv ihosc above tlu m. The tl.ic kncss of these strata isd.lKrcnt;
th.it of the upiKi-most in'sonie places is not more than a loot and a liiill, but in otinrs
twelve I'eer. As it is hidur than the others, it li.is not snnend so nuich from t he ilas i
int.- of the wavis. except in its lowest parts. 'I'li^ hi^ier h ivc llowed over the njck.
tal-iiiR' IW.ia it their conlionration. These vitrccu- bodies, havinfj; m them numerous
fis.mrs and eklts, are easilv bn.ken bv the beating ol' the ;vaves, aiul detached pieces
ol them are therefore found in i^reat (piaiUitiis on the sliore and under tiie water, Dut
n.(,re or less rounded by the dashiuK of the sea, and entirely resembling those smooth
irregular stones which form die beds of tlie rivers. ..,.,, *u *
I sliall tiow proceed to describe tlie ditiereut (|ualities of the vitnlied snljstanccs that
compose the Monte della Casta^nia ; in which description it will be impossible to be very
brief, on account of the numerous varieties of those substances, and the distinct atten-
tion which each justly claims. , . , i
I. And since the nature and cpiality of pumices was the last sul)ject that eiipjacjed our
attention, I shall begin with a substance which may be considered as the poiiU ol tran-
.sition of these bodies into glass. Not that it is not a true glass ; but it is so light, that,
like manv pumicts, it will swim in watir, and possesses that fragility which a.lways ac
companies pumices. Hence it easily shivers when struck against steel, and rarelv emits
sparks. It has besides, in more than one part, small pores, interrupted by vitreous
threads, which is observable in many of these kind of siones. The vitrihcation is more
advanced than in the pumices. The glass is of a whitish-gray, transparent, m part scalv,
and in part iinoluted and contorted, from the number ot pores whic'.i interrupt the di-
rection ol the structure. It is l«nind in detached pieces on the sides ot the n;ouiUain ;
and s(jme Hoat in the si a, the j^port of the waves. _ , • •
II. This second glass resembles the former in more than one quality ; but it is some-
what more heavv, and uiiat I siiouldcall reticulated, as it contains small eyes, or spots,
which give it 'i"c appeiirance of a net. It is found in strata above strata, and the lace
of everv hiraiu> i i, covered with an earthy and half-pulverous coating, in consccpicuce of
which coating i'easil) si)lits. „ , . .
III. Capillary glass, or glass reduced by fusion to die fineness of a hair, is so rare m
volcanizedcouiitries, that only four specimens of it arc known to those who have mos"
diligently examined the prodiictions of subterranean lires. The first of these was i^-o
duced by an eruption in the Isle of Bourbon in 1766, the second by Vesuvius m 1779,
the third bv Vulcano in 1774, and discovered by the chevalier Doloinieu ; and the
fourth noticed by iM. Faujas, who in the cavity of a basaltic lava, brought by Besson
from the volcanic caves of St. Sebastian at Rome, observed a great number of capillary
filaments from three to four lines in length, of a transparent and vitreous snljstance.
The iMonte della Custagna al Lipari furnishes a great (luantitv of this capillary glass.
whidi I shall consider as the third species of the substances that now vAium our attention.
Several of these glasses, w hich have a very thin texture, and are consefiueiitly v. f\ light,
it they arc examined internally, usually abound with cracks, sonieiinusextendinp,- uom
one end to the other of the pieces; and when struck in the dip ciion of these ihey arc
easily split. In diesc vacuities, the glass isextremeh smalland thin ; in many places
as fine as a hair, and forms minute entangled filaments, resembling the linest wool, or ihm
thri ads tending all the same way. Some of the latter are so line, that onl> breathing
on them will put them in motion, and break them. They are transparent, and h i\e a
lustre like silver. Many of them are two inches long ; and besides those w hich arc
visible to the naked eye, there are others in great numbers wnidi tr- onh- di^coveralile
by the lens. The nature of their formation does not appciu* to me uuUcult to exinain^
no
SPALlANXAN'l a TRAVELS
as it prnhnblv is to In- iittr'!)iit«.cl to the viscosity of the ^lass when in a liquid state, and
the ilistensioii A\hi(hlook place from the enlarii;< m< nt oi the apertures by eon^^elation.
Tluse thirli groups of vitreous threads, when \ie\\ed by the less experienced oh-
server, nii^-;!!! lead him to Ix lieve that they areaspcric:, oi' extremclv fine pumice ; but
a moment's aitentivi- ol)servation uill be sulVicitnt to di^^eover the ditlerence, which, as
it is essential, I shall here state.
One of the sensible characters of pumices, at least of ihe j;r nter part, is their being-
vitreous ; but their vitrification is alwajs in some digrec less than that of die true vol-
canic glass. The niamt nts, howevtr, ()f which 1 have ju^t spoken, ore entirely vitreous.
In iaci, thi V have the transparency of glass, and arc smooth to the tf)uch like that ;
^\ hereas those of pumices are almost opacpie, and rough to die touch. The latter may
be safely pii ssed with the finger ; but die former, though thicker, enter tlic skin, and
draw blood, as may be expected from the points and sharp edges of glass. It is true,
many pumices hiwi their original base the same with the volcanic glasses ; but the action
of till lire has not been the 'same on both, but on the glass has either been stronger or
lon;ier ('ontinncd.
'i'hoiigh this seems so clear in itself as to need no proof, I shall yet produce one which
is extremely obvious on the compari-on of some light filamentous pumices of Campo
Bianco und the present glass. Bo'h these bodies contain crystallized feltspars of the
same species, which in the pun.ices appear to have suffered no injury from the fire, as
tl.tv retain their clumgeable lustre, their laminated structure, their natural transparency
and hardness. On the contrary, in the glass in which we find these capillary filaments,
diDiigii they ha\ e not inidergoiie fusion, they are so changed that they have lost all the
characters above-mentioned ; and when touched with the finger, fall into small pieces, the
larger onlj retaining a kind of central point of the original nature of the stone. I have
in my possession one of these feltspars, which presents a curious appearance. It is placed
within out. of these ai)ertures, but without touching the sides, and is, as it were, sustained
in the air by a crown of capillary threads of glass diat are attached to it at one extre-
mitv, and at the odier fastened to the sides of the aperture. The feltspar must no doubt
hav'e been originally confined in die glass when it was fluid ; but this drawing back at
the time ol its congelation formed the cavity, and left the feltspar as it were isolated, and
communicating only with that part of the capillary down, which is a part of the glass
ilsi If reduced to threads by die rearing of the sidea of the cavity. This feltspar, which
is four lines m length, and three in breadth, is changed equally with the rest by th( lire.
From the facts'now adduced, it is evident that the fire which produced these pumices
was less oowerful in its effijcs than that from which the glass derives its origin ; it is not,
therclore, surprising that the latter should be more perfect than the former.
1 have entered into diese minute details relative to pumices and glasses, because it ap-
pears to me that the modifications and gradations visible in the operations of nature de-
serve the most careful attention of the philosopher, as, otherwise by considering things
too generally, we should incur the danger of confounding objects ver\ difterent in them-
selves; as lor instance, not to wander from our subject, since pumices, enamels, and
glasses are viirified substances, ^^e might confound them together, and even not distin-
guish them I'rom lavas ; and, in fact, there have not been wanting eminent writers who
liave characterized these also as true vitrifications.
This remark leads me to make a lew strictures on an opinion of M. Dolomieu ; who
having observed that pumice sometimes changes into glass, imagined that this glass, by
an iniiation of the internal air, Uiight pass into the state of pumice. The former I
readily admit, having adduced more tlian one example of it in volcanic products, not
IV riri' iwo :; ir ir, IK:..
\::
\n TnttUion arlinnal fusions in uhioli I lin\c alw.iys ohsn-al this tmv.ition f^l'pMini
(Ts into }i;li>'^^<-''' <"" t'UMnuIs, which is, hrsicUs, iMivmdy nutnnil ; the stone thus pass
inf,^ l)v tiic action oF a stroni; hiat, iVoni a less do<;ive of vitrilir-atif)M to a rriralc r. 1
liiul it] however, very diirKiilt to assi iil to tlie latter hyjioUnsis, as, in tliat rase, we must
suppose tluit a i;reati r or more [lerfcct vitrifieation may pass intof)nf less pcHlet, whiel-
is certainly vrrv unnatural; sini-e {'lass re-melted by volcanic fire will remain in its for-
mer condition ;" and supposin;; it slionld be inflated with a( riform teases, from solid i;lass,
which it was bifore, it will bi eo\nr Msicnlar, but never, in njy opinion, can it In com''
pumice, since it cannot return to that fnlijc iVpw of vitrifieation whi'h chaneterixes
that stone. Neither lire j:;asesan essential rn|uisite in the formation of pumic(s, several
kinds of which are comp.iei, and do not shew tlu' slis!;htcst indication of these dastir
fluids: besides, man\ jvla' ses already mentioiud, and others hi ri after to be enunurated,
shew, by the bub! )li's with which tlu \ abound, that tlu y have every where been pene-
trated by these fluids, without ha\iit,!; the least appearance of pumice.
IV. The jrlasses of the Monte d' 11 1 CastaL;na wliich ue have hillu rloconsidern', ■m
those that have a texture nv)ie or h ss jiorous ; we w ill nrnv proceed to those <jf a com
pact structure, of wivch kind is the f(>urth species, which may be sa.id to compose nearly
one half of the moiust.iin This i;Iass, if viewed superficially, and as it is found on the
spot, has rather tl:- ;'ppearanf,e of a red earth i!i;:n a i-dass, occasioned by a red earthy
coatini^ that invests the ^dass disposed under it in inmicnse plates ; which eovcrin,^-,
thout^ii in man\ places it but feeblj- adheres tf) it, since it may be removed by sim])ly
vasliinp; with water, in others is so'clost ly united that it forn\sthe last rind or outernu)st
part of the ^lass, which induces me to Ij-J'-ai tliat it is a suixrficial eleeomposition of it.
Beneadi this earthy eoatiuf; ihe s^lass appears, which is extremely jjerlect, and as if it had
just come oiit of the volcano. If we except a i'cw pieces in w hich its structinv is spons^'}-;
it isexiremelv compact and solid, and therefore much heavier than either of the other
three kinds, 'it is of an olive colour, aiul transparent when in thin scales, examined by
a bri,u;ht li^ht, but in the mass it appears op Kiue. It gives sparks rather plentifully with
steel, pieces of perfect glass, it is well known, when broken, have their fractures stri-
ated, waving and cured. In thi^ glass some o!" the fractures are the same ; but in
general they arc conchoids, like those of flints. Its consistence is not perfectly hon\o-
geneous, as it contains many feltspalhose points. Its aspect is not lively and brilliant,
like that of glass, but somewhat unctuous and dull, from all these epialities this product
appears to be more projierly an enainel than a glass ; unless we are willing to consider
it as one of those volcanic bodies which constitute tlie middle substance betw een ena-
mels and glasse .
In my description of the glasses of Lipari, I have o!)served that several of them arc
intersected with veins or earthy leaves, by means of which they are easily divided iiito
plates. The same is observable in the present glass, in which we find the same tjuality
as in some marbles, which being cut in the vein may be di\ ide d, w ithout any great labour,
into large slabs, but which break into small pieces if it be attempted to tli\ ide them in
any odier manner. Some of the workmen who dig the pumices, and were very useful
companions to me in my excursions to Campo Bianceiand the Monte della Castagna,
Ht my reejuest, drove with heavy hammers, an iron wedge into these earth} veins and ex-
tracted frou) the common mass of this glass large plates five feet long, three broad, and
two in thickness. To the surface of each jilate was attached a coating of hard eartlu
matter, which still more confiinied me in the opinion I imve already given, that this
matter had resisted fusion, und, being lighter d)an the fluid glass, had ascended to the
vol.. V. A A
178 ■.iwi.i. an;; ' Ni' '■ i n a \ i t. .
.siii-nicc , a (on|tctiiii tiiillicr tonolM.raUcl IjV liir ;irnrui;il Insioii uhi.li 1 iuikU oI" tlw.
i;l;(ss r<taininj<M )nu' yi^vi'nm of this caitli, uliirh with diirwulty Itiscd, though thc}^l;ih:>
\v;is inlhitcd and (•han;j;({l into a huthy inanul.
This i^rhiss slightly cuts the laflitioiis |>lass ; and il'ilu' nilting angle of one piece is
driven with fnni.- along tin suilaee olanollu r, it prfKlueesa w lute and inr.nilpable powdir.
V. This spiciesdl glass eonipleteh. (U serve s tliat appellation, siiiee it is not only die
most" perfect f)rall ihe\ole;iuie gl.iss( s (.f the Koli.tn isk s, but does not in the least re
spect yield to what is called the Iceland agate, or the gallinaceous stone of Krii, winch
is supposed to have Ixm the obsidiaii su;ne of the ancimts. In the large pieces its
rnlo\iri:, CAtrenulv blacU, and it is ( nliri iy opa(|ue, hnt the thin lea\es are white and
transparent. The'opacitv and blaeknc ss n'lay he said to he in the direct ratio of the
thickness. This glass, which is extremely eonipatt, is free from aeriform bubbles,
and from every kind of heierogeneousness'. It is somewhat harder than the fourth
species, and iherelore e iits llictiiicuis gla^.s mure easily, and gives more sparks with
steel. Its edges are sharj) and cutting.
M. Faujas, having obtained some specimens of the best glass of Lipan, has made
■,ome ob';ervations on it pre)per to be gi\en here, lie admits that this spei-ies is the same
with that of Iceland ; but he renvirks,' however, that it diilers from it in the polish, \\hi( h
apl)earcd to him more unctuous and less vitreous, besides that in the fractmes it had
■MA that \\a\ing, striated, scaly appearance, which is proper \o the masses of true glass.
It must l)e remendxred, Imwever, that the specimens of M. I'anjaswere none of the
best: the pieces, at least, which 1 collected, took so extpiisite a polish and lustre, that I
do not believe any kind of artificial glass ever received one more beamifni and brilliant.
This glass, be'-ides, when inlhe mass, being opacpie, became a true tnirror; a:id I there-
fore iind no ditiieultv in believing that the ancient Peruvians used a similar kind of glass,
cut aiul polished, for mirrors. This glass, likewise, could not be broken without ex-
hibiting the iMKlnlating scales, lightly striated, which the French Vulcanist alHrms he
could not fmd in his specimens. ' While I now write, I have before mc a piece with a
recent fracture, in which these waves are circidar and concentrical, occupying an arci'.
of two inches and a half, the common centre of which is the point that received tiic
blow : they re;,emble in some manner those waves which u stone produces round it
w hen it falls perpendicularly into a standing water.
I cannot omit another remark. M. Faujas says, that the edges of this glass where
thcv are very thin, if presented to a strong light, are a little transjiarent. The trans-
parency of the thinnest parts of the glass on which 1 maele n>y observations, when com-
pared to that of common factitious glass, is certainly not ecpial to it : it is not, however,
so much inferior as this naturalist seems to suppose. A scale three lines and a half m
thickness being presented to the llame of u candle aftorded, in part, a passage to the
light; and another, two lines thick, being interposed between the eye and external ob-
jects, permitted a confused sight of them. Another, half a line in thickness, being laid
on a book, it might be read with the greatest distinctness. 1 have entered into these
minute details tlu'better to shew the perfect (lualily of this glass. , , •
The opacity of this glass in tlie mass jiroceeds from a very subtile, and, perhaps, bi-
tuminous substance, incori)orated with the vitreous matter, and rendering it dark like a
toloud. The glass loses this substance if it be left for some hcuro vc -.r.elted m the cru-
cible, und it then becomes white. _
Bergman observed that the Icelandic glass, when exposed to the fire, melts with diffi-
»ultv.%,ithont t!ie addition of some other substance as a lUix. In this it differs Irom
iV 1 MI 1 •„■() .1. i;,i i:
i
bi-
(lie present oll/ipari, uliicli soun In'j^iii , to ;:.)!tcn i:i i!. ■ rurimu', n.d in ;i ii\r I.om-s
iinflcrt^ocs a< omplttc CiisiMii.
'I'liiskiiid ol'fflass, houxAci, isiiol llic iikjm coimujoii t.. !>> nifi \v\\U on (Ik M -iit
(Icllii Castiii'iiii. h is Couiicl cjiily in a ll-u places, scaturcd in I,ir)<c Ixil sollt.nv nvisst-,.
nor (an I jjn trnd to say, uluilitr iIk-.c aic riinaius of c.iimuts, or ulictlKr ili-. y U'cT'
lliroun out by ibr biniiinj.'^ f^nill'",.
It happen', fi this ^Iass;isto the dilll i\ nt I.iiuK oi" prociotis stcjnes, that is, that )h<
same piece is not ahvajs throughout of c(|nal purity and vahie ; for, on breakinjc son\''
ol these masvs, we someti mils find one portion very pure gl^ss, sueh as has bien already
described, and the other imi)erre(;t ; either Iieeause the fusion his not been |;vneral, the
substance containing bodies loreign to the l)ase, or because tliat base is rather an enanu 1
than vitreous. These bodies are iehspars, but ol" a neu- appearance. Nothing is nior.-
common thati to find Iehspars in lavas, and sometinjes even in enanu Is and glasses ; ol
nhich we have (Vequent examples in this work, as well as in the accounts ol' (jtlier \\n
tcrs. But these Iehspars are always inserted inimediatdv into these sub,tances with
out any intervening body. Here, however, the case is difVerent: everv leltspar is :;nr-
rounded with a rind or coating, which, when it is extracted entire from' the manul, ap.
pears to be a vitreous globule, about one or two lines in diameter, of a ckar cinereous
colour. It wc break this globule, wc find within it the half fused feltspar, not divested
of nscoatnig, but forming one body with it. These globules are very numirous, and
sometimta by their conHuencc form groups ; and they are very distinctly visible, on ac-
count ot the black colour of the enamel.
The maimer in which this coating was formed aroimd the feltspars I conceive to bi-
as lollows: when the enamel was fluid and inclosed the feltspars, it acted as a flux to
their external parts, and combined with them ; and from this combination was the rind
or coatmg produced, while the internal part of the feltspars had onlv undergvjne a semi
fusion, because it was not in inmudiate contact with the enamel. ' There' can be little
Cloubt but that the feltspars likewise existed in the perfect glass; but the heat probably
being more active in that than in the enamel, they were completely dissolved, and the
entire mass reduced to one similar consistence. As a jiroof of this'conjecture, the fur
nace produced a complete homogeneity of parts in the enamel containing these extrane
ous globules.
_ VI. When treating of the rocks of the castle of Lijjari, I said they were formed of a
cinereous lava ol a leltspar base, u hich in many places has passed into glass. I like-
yvise remarked that the la\ a, as w ell as the large pieces of glass, was filled' with globules
apparently not dissimilar to the base. At the beginning of the Monte della C'astagna,
not lar Ironi a cottage, the habitation of one of the labourers who dig pumice, there is
a current ol similar glass that falls into the sea in several branches, and w hich I shall hero
consider as the sixth species. This glass ho\\e\er has a more line and shining grain, and
fif iT-^"r '^^-"^'.^^^b t>ui:lias we observe in glass, yet in beauty it is little inferior to the
hlth kind ; and if whiteness, or more jjroperly the want of colour, is particularh va-'
luable m volcanic glasses (since those which have this quality are extremely rare)' this
certainly has considerable claim to our attention. Not that it is entirely colourless, as it
contains a kind of obscure cloud, which gives it, when vieued in the mass, a blackish
nl^'i r * "^ ^'^^^ ^^^^^ '^ appears white. The round cinereous bodies with which it is
Idled, iormthe most pleasing and conspicuous contrast, and render the glass irregularly
spotted. I have large pieces of the fifth sort cm and polished. Their colour, which is
that ot pitch, gives them a peculiar beauty. Tiie blackest and choicest marbles of Vn-
rena and \ .rona are far inferior to them in fineness of grain and lustre ; yet, t'vom
A
t
lUO
aiALI. AN/. AWr.'i i It \ Vtl.i
tluiiiitiilorniitv of colour, tlav art- lis^lKMiitilul iliaii this , potted ^'lass, wlu n it has re
tti\(.d a (U lie alt. polish liom ihi. haiids of tin artist. On (Ik sliorc, uluri' the torri'nt
I'll! iiUoilu' sui, Wf liiul pint, sol' all si',:t s rotiiul d and sinooihi.tl Ijy tin- c.oiitiiuial aj^i
talioii ol' (Ik s< a ; 1 h.i\» im t will) nioit than oiu: olh'li';! lo it and a loot in diaincttT.
Notwithstanding il.i.' po\virrid action of the waves uliii!) ha\c hiatcii on them lor so
lon^' a tinu, tlu ir iniirnal p;irls iwv not injortd, and, when cut and |)olitlu'(l, they |)re
sent surl.icis \erv iK.nililnl tt» the tu. T.ibUts ol' this kind of ^las-i (and there is uq
uani ol p'eeisol ;i propirsix,! to lorni ihini) wonid add much to the grandeur and sj)len
dour ol' any snmptnous ^-allcry.
lint disrt j^.irdiii^ die Inaiit) which delights the tyc, let «is prf)cccd tf) ohjerts that at-
tract and intensl ilu ( nriosiiy ol' the philosophiiMl imiuirer. \Vc shall find that the
cinereous bodies included in this f^lass are only points ol'lava with a fcllspar base; and
on examining in various places tin. current ol this j^lass, we shall perceive that it is a
'"ontinnaiion ol" the same la\a with the feltsp.ir basi, of which these orbicidar corpuscles
uc composed; whence wc shall not hesitate to conclude, that from this stone both the
la\a and the jjjlass derive their origin, and that wi find small particles ol' luvu scattered
through the latter, because it has not muiergonc comjilctc fusion ; whence we lind sotuc
piices composed partly of glass and parll} of this same hn a. In some ofthe.se pii'ces
we disco\er snrtllgeodes, or thin filaments of an extremely brilliant and tniuspiirent glass
resembling in miniature the husk of the chcsmit.
\'1I. Though this glass in many particulars resembles the last spciles, it yet diller.s
irom it in others. It is perfect like that, but it is of a deeper col'iur. In ii, likewise,
ilu sm;ill glo!)ul(s abound, but they are earthy and |)ulveri/.able ; cv(.ry one is detached
in its distinct niche, or at most is only fastened to it by a few points.
'Ihe description of this se\enth s|)ecii.s ol ghiss will render that of several others uu-
vicccNsaiA , since the glasses I sliouUI have to deseribe contain a gicater or less number
of similar globules, (liU'ering only in the nature of the base iinlosing them, which in
some is more and in others lc.ss \itreous. I shall only ma!;c one- observation, which 1
think to be of some ini])(;rtance, rt.lative to the glasses I here ( 'iit. Sexual (;1 tlicm
ha\e, even in tluir inlenial parts, fissures frccpienilx' an inch in breadth and three inclus
in It iigth. These are not entirely vacuities, but are l'ic(|iientl} crossed by small threads
"f glass connected at tluir two extniuilies with the sides. The bioidcst of thes<"
thieaels are four lines in breadth, ;iiul the nanowesl searcel} aline. When bnjkeii ilu)
have the fragility of glass, r.nil ate foniid to be a most perfect glass, being colourless,
and extremely transparent. It is easy to conceive that these threads have been formed
in the sanie manner with those of the cajjillary glass found in similar fissures in the third
species of glass.
V'lll. Tlie eighth and last kind of the \ iiiifications of liie Monte della Castagna may
be duiominaleel an ename I that has the colour aiiel lustre of asphaltum, of a scaly grain,
a very small degree (jf tianspait ncy in llv.,' points of the fractures, aiiel of considerable
weiglit and c >m[n;elness, tlioiigh it is e.\ti\ nu iy friable. It is found in solitarj- masses,
not very niinienjiis, and the broku; ; '. c i, s have the property of assumitig a gloi)ose
form. Sor.ie of these gl(jbes reseinl.le li.ose found by Nl. Dolomieu in the island of
Ponz. I h..ve been favoured with twool'iiie hitter by the abbe Fortis ; but I find, that,
wxcepiing their globose figure, they (lifler in every respect from those (jf which I now
speak. The globes ol l\ai;.a are composed of leaves over le.''ves, of an imperlect ena-
n\el, do not gi\ e sj)arks w ith steel, and ce)nlain feltspars and mica ; w hereas these of the
JMonie- deila Castagna raixl) include a lew leltspars, give sparks with steel, have a vi
frcous appearance, and not. composed of plates or lca\eb.
IN I rir, I \\"() ;'<t I r. II ■..
til
Snini imciSorilii^iiiuuKl, biokr-i aiul lUf m Iw il liin.i iL^ ni;issis, art iii one pi.rt
iru . ii.nui, aiul in aiiotli- r lava, Tlu- Uicr j^ivrs liw snarlvs with surl, has u kimim
{ippioarhiii- to . arllu , ancl, as r..r as I oou'al dis-ioMf, has fur it. !)a'H' a solt horn-stfrnf.
from ulnrh, cni ■• (|iu nth , tlu- ^ nanu I, IIIau-Isc, iW\\\ s its ori-in.
'I'lusi' aa tlu' priiiciiMl \iiiiiiratl".>, I uWsirvid in my <\iuiVi')ns to tlu.- Monte tklla
CaslMLna." Sonu' I ha\i oniiit. d to notici', hincc, soniv trilliiiL'; diiruxiUTs cNCiptcd,
tlu'V arc csscnliallv till- snne with tlto.r drvrihid. I' i. proper, homvcr, to nntark.
that more- than (.iie of tht-ni ( shiUits manilrsl sij-n^ of luvin^^ oiwc llowul down the sides
ol the mountain, in the ihii k thnads and \itrcons lilanunts they contain similar to
those we see, on a lesser scale, in |j;lass liiM tl in our liirnaccs, when it conAcs into ron
tact w ith the eold air, as it Hows dow n an itielined plani .
I'.vtry one oi'thisc ci}^d\t kinds ol glasses and enamels may Ik compK tely re-tiv Ued
m ihr I'urnace. Wlu n spiakin^ of the eomnact f^lass of tlu' roek ofthe eastle oll.ipari.
I remarked its extraordinary inllation in th<: fiirnae-e, and said that this tiunefartion
usnallv ac"(jmpanies a re-fiision, in om- fins, of solid |>;lasses, and volcanic enamels. 1
ihcn llad in view those ol tiie Monte della CastaKua, live of w hieh. ihoiij^h compact and
solid, in the lurnace, swelled hi|,di above the edjrcs, notwithstanding^ that, Ik lore the ir
re.liision, tlKy onlv hlkd a Uiird part of it. In the discription oi'other glasses ol Lipari,
I sIk.11 have (ucasJon attain to renuirk the same phenomenon, on which I shall niakr
1'urtlu r obser\aiionb in another patt ol' this work.
Let us now ppKccd to consider the most remarkable lavas of the same place, winch
have an innuediate ri lation with the glasses and enamels, from beariu,^' some character
istic impress (^1 vitrification. I then flatter in\ self I shall have given sulUcicnt detail oi
the volcanic prodnc Is of this famous mountain.
The first species I sln.ll describe has lor its base the pctrosilex ; is hard and coinpacl,
and proportionabl} hi avy, oi a siliceous aspect, of a pale blue colour, lAiyiii^;' sparks widi
steel, and aboundiiig in 'black, rhomboidal, well preserved shocrls. Wlunit was in a
state of flnidit), it uiclosid w idiin it several bcKlies of a dilVeri-nt nature from itself;
which being angular, and ha\iiig sharp edges, shew that at the time they were included
in it thev were not in actu.ilinsi(in. 'i'luir coloin*, which is that of baked brick, their
numerous lissin-es, and their Iragilii}, ir.clini nie to believe that they ha\e been calcined,
probablv when they were taken up by the current.
This'lava is spotted, and, in many'places, even veined, with a black and oparpie ciui-
mel, harder than itself, but which gi\esbut lew sparks n ith steel. Its aspect is between
the siliceous and the vitreous, and it has gri at comimctness. The shoerls it contains
arc unaltered. This lava is dispos- d in strata, and extends a considerable way in some
oi' the hollows of the mountain.
The extreme blackness and homogeneity of the enauK 1 into which tiiis lava is changed
in the furnace, prevents die eye, at the firsi view, from discerning the sluKrls it contains;
but they are discoverable with the lens. They have lost their crystalliiiation, and have
assumed a globose ligure, a certain mark of fusion, and their black colour is tinged
with a dead' green. The re-fusion shews that this lava contains a number of felispar
scales, w hich I at fn'st could not discern even widi the aid of die lens. Their white and
somewhat changeable colour renders them visible on the extremely black ground of the
rc-ivielted enamel.
The second lava is of a feltspar base, partly wliitc, and partly of a reddish yellow:
ith::s a lucid grain, and includes amorphous feltspars, uneqi; lU' distriljuted, being rare
in some parts and abounding in others. In many places, it is a true glass, distributed
.(• \(. I \N.;,\ .% I
It; '. V L I
in sm.itl tn.i .«.'■, Ill' v.tiiuu . coffKirs, snim Mitck, oilms cluiniiis, ;iiiit oiluii ><hiu : tlit
l.ilfi r i . ;i«» UMiis|»;ui.iil ;i> liictiiit/ir. [iiss.
'I'IiIn l;i\:nir;itli(.n.ri' ; at ki.st I (»iiK nu » 'v'l. hio pirns of it, ;il«iiii the middU
of tin nt'ititii.iiii , iiiiel Iroiti tluir ii'ij.;ks'.iii<l i.uvuuv^ I jiKljrid th.it tin \ li.id Ikcii dc-
I.K In i\ Irniu sdiii' l.ii|r( r muss.
It i.iiiit olijii \«i\ r«.u Kind-, whli Ii null wjiIm;. Hi'. iilt\ in tlv riiiiiii(( ; but it is at
kiijiili iidiKid to :;l)l.ick poKMis ii.iiii. 1. Init wiilnut llU'Vilsi'iii ol'llir 11 llspiirs.
Tin thiid I:i\;i i. (>l .ii;t;i\ colour, h.iid. j(imp;iit, Iwavy, rough t.,ilic tfjinh, aiKl^-ra-
Miil(»iis. Ii li;is I'ur iis liasi till' Ik Irosil, \, aiul f;i\ i. s \ ivid sp.iil. -. so {opioiisK w illi sk il
that it ma,\ sii|<pl\ tlit pl.tci' of lliut. Wluii skw^d iutlic darL !)\ tin. lijMit of aiandU-,
it diiiKs S.I l)rij;lii|\ ilia miiiiliu' ofpoiiKs, ihit, at (iist sij^Iu, Wf iMi}<ht'l)c ii»diic(d t(»
biTuM' that it Wh'i lull (){■ small n) st;illr/.<d and i \ti\ nu l\ lailliai.t //olitth, or litdf
liii id sli(>ul'. ; lait on moie allviiti\(.' csaiiiiii ilioii \\v discover, tspvci^illy in the ri'( . at
Ihictitris, that thiM' points ari'oiily small particles ol' glass, scattered iui^xeat abimdaiicc
;iiioiij;h its whoir siihstaiu'c.
Oil OIK- side ol'tlie Monti dilla ('as*:tu;na there arr prodi^Moiis iivisscs of this lava, but
in ''.. tallied pieeis, which have ns in uncu' linty wit!) i\ sj)ect to its ori;^in.
Ill ilu riirnacc this la\a produces a black homoij^eiieoiis enamel, coini)act, and sliglul)
traiisp;,* III in lliosi p irisol' tlu idi^es which are thimu'st.
'rile rotinli species has a It Itsp ,iho-,e lKise,aiul likewise contains a num!)er of vitreous
i>arti« hs, but uliic h approach rallur to the nature of enamel than to that of glass.
As this l.;\a is e.Mrei u ly white, we miL;ht at first be induced to suspect that it has
'leeii duonip.isid by ^^lphnl•l ous acieU ; an opinion which its IViaI)ility appears to
'Oil linn, liiit thiu is more than one reason te) eonvince us f)l' the ee)ntr.ir\. I'iisc, the;
injury which this lava had received from these acids would have esteiuivci to the eiia-
niel, as I ha\e shewn that the enanuls and vitrifications ol N'ulc.iio arc sensibly altered
l)_\ these \olatile s.ilts, whereas the present iiianul is not at all ilK e te d. SiccHully, as
these \ap(juis aet on the surUiee ol' volcanie' productions, the' iktopiposilion and whitc-
nisbdo neji usually enter very deep into them ; and the nucleus ol the se jiroducts re-
tains its colour and priiiiiti\e e onipactiuss. An example ol this we iiave already noticed
ill the lax.is of Sollat.ira iiiiel i >> ciiviioiis;* and wi shall soon ha\c (jccasion to mention
another in those <j| Lipari, noi lar irom tlu' sto\es, or hot baths. The' present lavti, how-
e\er, w hich is in detached piece s, many lee t in thickiuss, has iht. same whiteness and
liiabilit} on its sin lace and in lis most inteiiuil |.arts. LastlN , these \apours, in dee;oin-
po-ing M>leanic |)ro(.Uicts, lake away the rous^hiiess of the parts, and render the surface
smooth and iikjic or less soft to the touch ; but this Ia\a ritains the same roughiuss in
I very part. I must here add, that, in all m} researe-lus about the Monte della Castagna,
I have iif)t found .my pari ol it wliii h shew signs of ihe influence ol these sulphureous
\apours.
Tlie furnace in a feu hours reduces this lava into a grfiss enamel of little adhesion, and
ol whieh niam parts are not vilrilied ; but in a longer lime, ii passes into a true liome).
gene oils and i Atremel}' porous glass.
'I'helilili i.iid last l.iva may be ee)nsidered in many di Hi. rent jjoints of view, each of
which (!i serves lo bi distinctly notiee.d; the (ire and elastic- Ihiids having produced very
dillercnt (polities in '.lie same product. The following arc' the principal:
It we bie.ik a mass ol this iava into s, vcial pieces, we shall fin. I thai soniv o. them have
many cracks or fissures' some e.\.tciKliiig lengthwise, and wlucn seem Ccy have been pro
*l)
i\ 111" I V. I' liK II.
11..
.tno'il \a til' ri 'Mih : r.itlu' p irtH oij rf)tM;>l.ition, ;;i ■! t-ilut**, t j .i i.iiui'mSH ,• iin, j'f"
li.ilil) tlu I III* I •'! iIk ;i'ii..ii (^I'iIk' il..«.'iv ^.isc^. TIi v. ll,Min ^ ;it<' MiiroiiiuKil vlih
ii!>n's, UmdUkI mil twisted in a tl»<iiiviml u.i>h, ami rvhiiiildlii;; ih '.. iWtitiil in lie < i\ i
litM ol" M)nu' kiiiiK nlpiinrnii' ; tM:« |»l tli;il tlu Dim s nl'ilr Lttu', tin lim st at I' a ,", Ic" •
the lii^tri' ;iM(l cmIoui' oI siUxr, whuxah tlir^c arc ul' a dirk k>' '.' • '^"^l •' ^tnnuuv, v.A «',
.ill \iliroUN, , , r
Oilurpitcisol till same lava lia\'i,ot lluht lisiiin i, amidilkr Irom thv fornK-r liUw
\vi-.i ill (itluf H ^|H » t^. TlioM' In i'nrc d> srnljid.irc ii^lit, and lu\» a ^[iMuVitv •> siir.ila:
to tli.it of sunn burnt bom s, as aho i',ivat jiiabil""/. , uluivas, oii i\w cxiii.iry, llit^c arc
c()in|vKt, hard, luaw , and cuiilaiii sm.ill and sUinin',' particles of j'lass.
Others instead oi'tluse particles or points have a vitrcDiis i,'roinid, hut scaltertcl ovci
with small ^lohnlis ol'laxa.
Last 1), oil III-. ha\ipasstdiiiiM •■lass, nhich would be vers perfect were it not nii\(.d
with the above nu htionid i^lobnies.
Tlu; colour of this lava, wliuv there are no \itreoiis |)arts, is cinereous; and its l)asc.
as far as I can discovir, horn-stor.c. In the luniace it produces a scoriacroiis enauul.
Havin).^ thus described the principal volc.mic pnxhn fs of C'auipo Ui.mco and ill'-
Monu della Casta^^na, which are pumices, i;Ki .si s, enanuls, and lavas, more or le*:i vi
tnons, I shall here nuiki a lew rcniarks, belbrc I pnuiul to (Kscril)e die (jlhtr jbjects
that drew n»v attention on tiii nniiiiiin,, parti of ihi. chores ol die island.
'I'huup;h ^ampo lii.mcoand liu Moute (Ulla C'astajijna are considered as two distincA
mountains, they are so connected to^uhir ami (ontiii'-id that tlav n»ay v< ry jusily bt
esteemed oiih' one; or at least as roriniur;,' a siiif^k f;ronp in tin island. 'I'he identity
of the products in bodi, confirms in sf/nu me.isnre the uiiii) of iliis i;roup. In Uie part
abomuiinjr with pumices, wc ivieel at every step wid» eKtached |iicre:-. of ^iass, and on
du' Monte della Casta>;na amid the t,dasscs we find numerous |)uinices ; a part of tin
solid kinds of which ari' dn.i; Ikic after riinovin^' the masses of j;;lass u.ieler which ihcy
are bmicd.
It is further to be observed, that though this mountainous ^n-oup when see u from tin
sea appears isolated, yet, on ascending to iIk suinmil, wc find that it extends far to the
wist, as Wc shall pcrceixe more dr^tiiicll) uheii we come to treat ol the Stoves (»l l^ipari,
Ibilieve, iheivfoiv, I should noi c\;i!;|;erate were 1 to say d\at this ,-Toup of mountains,
taken in its whole extent, has a circuit of eij^ht miles; nor is the extent of its vitrifica-
tions less, if in these we include likewise die pumices, which are m fact only a less per
iict }i;lass.
Hut how much more cKicnsive, on the side of the sea, must have been dus tract of
viuiliid substances in the' ages immediately I'ullowiii}; the furimtion of the island ! We
ha\e already seen how the' rain waters, that diMin towarel the sea fnan the- summit ol
Cuinpo bianco, ha\e deeply corroikd and fuiiowed its declivity. The ra\ai^es wliif'h
the waves ol the sea have made, and are continually m ikiii};, h i\e already Ijeen de-
scribed, anil are suilniently proved by the heaps ol' pumices lallen aloni^ the: shore, and
diose wliicii lloat on tar wa\es at the foot of C.nnjto liianco , for neiiiicr a norh nor a
north-east w mil can bio\v without a pnxlij^ious (piaiiLi.y of these li^^lit siunes beiu^- waited
into die harbour of Lipari.
The' ell v.istatioiis w Inch the vitreous mountain della Cast iffiia has suftered, and is daily
sufluinj^-, oinhv sieie beaten by the sea, are likewij,e \er) threat. Tivit tlKse havi' tor-
nuilj been very considerable, is proveel by the small vitreous rocks witliin the sea, which
there is no doubt anciently formed one \i hole wiili the mountain, and hav .• been sepa-
rated from it by thccorrobion and desiruciion of the iiuer\ ening i^kisses..
«•
^^p
y-i
z r A r. I \ N ;: a \ i 5 r :; .\ v r. r.\
111 tliis cxU-nsivi' j^rotip of moiintains :iiul tht ir ctivirnns, we fiiul no cfKiniotcristiv;
(uarks (it'tl'.i.' existence of iincieiit erau rs. It "s tiiie, tli;it in sev( r.il pl;iees we liiul (•;i\ i-
ties thai iipproaeli to a rniintl lorm ; hiil lliey lea\i' us in absolnti' uncertainty wlicllKf
i1k'\ Inne hccn montlis of \f)le aiins, si.iei^ wt nnei with siiuiiar oni s, and much niofc
specious, ill coiiiitriis not \()l(';ini;:i il. It ca;mot however lie doubted, that Cainj>c> IVi-
.iiis''. iiid the Monte (IlUu C'ast'i'na ati !he|,'ro(Iu''. (irsiieci si.iw ( ni|jtio:!s, some oI'uI/k h
h.ave I'otnied ctii ;ents, and cdivTs buii thrown into thi: air. Ol' the foruK r weha\e
KKU man} prools I>o;h ii. the j)i:re.;ri,s aiid the glasses; and the dilached and sulitan
pi< e( s dl' iIrsc saini sul)'!aM(A s ;.'" ■ snilicii nt i \ idi. iice of the lattu*.
\N iti)resp(. ct to the |!a:>.>e: , Iiesuks \\\i : ■.' wliieh are seattcretl solitarily on the Monte
della Castai^na, we mutwiih them disptrsul in li!:e manner on Campo liianco. 'I'he
tjeetious o| thisc' substances Irt.'m the \olcano. lia\e likewise ext(Mulefl be\ ond these
ji|ac(.:i, as I bi;;'an to iind tlum scaltirul :inio;,;i; the la\as before I ani\tfl at C'ampn
IViani'f). We h.axe also j-e^ n thai :,on\L kinds (*i the |)Uinii:es bear t \ idem marks ol hav-
in;; beiii thinwn into the air i](au the \'ol(:ani(; j^ulfs. This I now indti;e to ha\e
bei. u the (Jiiji.'.n of the pid\erls(d pumice with v.lii'h (.'amjio liianeo abounds. I at
lirsl iniaj';in((l it wa'j to i)e attiibiited to the sn])( rficial efMTo^ion of the raiu-water, and
the iiitluence of the atmosphere ; but in niDie than one deep cxca\ation made on the
spot, where either ih^ n,in>.lKi\e iiot peneUMled, or if they have, must hiivc bein unable
to c(;rrodi', from \\am ( f in.; etus, I lounil the san.e abundance of puherised pumice;
J am thertiore of opinion, this uuist h:;\c keen thrcjw n out h\ tlie same \oIcaiio that
(jidid the pumices. Sueii, in fact, is the coii>tant tlfect obsi!r\af)le in biuMin_t( moim-
tains ; which, wlicn the} eje(~t lavas and other i,u;nitcd bodies, throw out at ti'.e same
time clouds ofashis, whieli, w hen atlenli\e!\ ( xamined, are I'oi.nd to be (jnh- a mi;. lure
of small jKirticles oi' tin. Iari;c r b'^dies ejected. Iha\emade the same obscrwilii^ii rela
tive to tf.'. 'iery showers of \'csu\ ins a.ud the elections of Swomboli.
We have seen that the iirimordial n-cks, wliieh, by their lirpiefaction, hiwc I'ivcii
birtii to Campo IVianco, the Mouie dilla C\istagna, and the vast rock on \vhich the
castle ol the island stands, were for the most j-art (cltsparor i)etrosilex, sotnetinus con-
verted into pumices, souielimes into glasses andcnaimls, and sometimes into mixed iavas
containing more c>rlcss \itreoiis parts. In describing these N'itreous parts, and the large
iuasses ol glass that are a continuation eif the lavas, I ha\e n(jt attempted to determine
whether it has be en the conse(]uence of a more velununl heat, that the lava has in some
places been changed into glass, or because that in some parts it was uujre easy vitriliable.
H()th opinions apjjear proljable, anel possible both ma\ be true, aeeoreling to the dilllr-
eiicc C)f e:ircinnstances. \\ hetx' a la\a retains the nature oi' !a\a lor some extent, and
then clianges into glass, I Iind no elilliculty in supposing that its \ iirifie-ation has been
tlie conseeiucncc of a more- intense heat ; but where\er large masses of lava exhibit points
of glass, not onl\ externally, but e\en deep in their interior parts, it does not seem ver_\
natural to sujjpose that these can ha\e been the effect of a stroni^er iction of the fire
upon those points of the ia\a ; they must rather be ascribed to a greater ajjtitude in the-
hiva itself to \itrify in those parts.
And here an opportimit)' presents itse)i''.'> nu n'.lon an a]>peaninee' I observed, whicii
cerlainlv meritssome attention, in m .kii: ■ ;ii^ cir. uit of the sides of Cami)o Bianco,
and the Monte della Castagna, 1 sijsim time -. me" \\\ !i i-oLiteel masses ^^•hich any person
without the least doubt would ha\e proneMcu' ,i I'j L>e gf.ss, as in fact they were cxter
iiall}, this glass inclining Ui a yellow or blue e'oii.ur, bi ii g- \ery smooth, anil i)romising
to prove extrei4iely line, lint on breaking ouv n: tiieiii it w .s found to be a pure and
..'.mple )avi'. coutcfl v iih y slight \ aiuish o! gluM.. Hij- the gi.w'.ing ui an Cvirthen vessel. I
f.\ I'll I. i'vvo :,[\.ii.iZ',,
iH'i
at first imiiryiin (I tluit the hcnt Ivul luted iiv)i\- pouc rOilly on tl..- s'lri'u ' ^'l' ilvso livis
when fluids tlKdi mm their internal p:irts : I)nt a Inrther cv.iniiiialioii ronviiictil me <liU
siiivposiiion was ill (oinukci ; Cor more tir.ui one iC thcv nuiss: s wciv an inlar, and in
.some places discovenil old fractures wliich sonu'tinu's had a conchoidil fcMnc. Ic(vjid
also sometimes join t\v(T pieces to5;elher in such a manner as to prove that they had onrr
formed a hirj^er whole. In these cases the viireous varnish, which was about die thick
riess of one-'si\tI» of a line, was equally extcnd( d ovi r the anirl' s, the fractures, and ev ii
the surfaces by which the two picces'mip;ht be so exactly joined. It was impossil)l( .
therefore, not to conclude that this varnisli had been produce d posterior to the action
of the fire. But l)y what cause*? I candidly confess I know not: I can only say, tha'
on exaininin|T volcanic t^lasscs on the spot I have fjund that sonv of them, in the part',
most exposed to the action of the atmosphere, and the dements, have ccntricted a kind
of opal appearance, extremely agreeable to tlu; eye, but entirely superficial. May not
the same cause, whatever it bt\ which f«ives dus pleasin;,^ polish to glass, by acting on
the lava, cover it with a vitreous varnish ? I shall not, however, venture to determiiv.
ai\y thing positively.
I shall conclude my observations on these places with some remarks on the universal
sterility that reigns through them, though their origin is anterior to the records of his-
tory. If we except a few lichens attached to the lissures of the glasses, there is no
vestige of a single living vegetable over die whole Monte della Castagna ; and on Camjjo
Bianco, as has before l/een said, they are extremely rare. This sterility is a consequence
of the vitreous nature of the mountain, which in so many ages has not been decomposed
into a vegetable earth, and according to every apjiearance will cf)ntinue the sinue for a
long scries of centuries to come. Among all volcanic pr.nlucts, the vitrified sub-
stances arc the most refractory to the changes of the atmosphere and the action of the
humid elements. This simple observation may teach us how uncertain are all attempts
to determine the epochs of the flcnving ol" la\ as from the greater or less change they
may have suffered from the influence of the atmosphere combined with that of other de-
structive agents ; the degree of such altenition dei)ending on the nature of the lava
itself, according as it may be more or less earthy, or more or less \ iuvous. We maj
indeed, with the utmost reason, ascribe an antiquity almost transcending our conception
to a volcanic glass, or a vitreous lava, v hieh shall naturally have been reduced to an
earthy soil, proper for the production and nourishiuenl of plants.
The abundance of the objects presented by this side of ihe island of Lipari, has com-
pelled us to be somewhat diffuse ; but this it was impossible to avoid, without failing in
accuracy. This prolixity will, however, be comi)ensated, by the brevity with which the
other productions of the base of the island may l)e described ; since, though we have
scarcely examined more than a third part, the remainder olll r onl}- u few facts deserving
observation.
Beyond the pumicts the lavas again appear, beginning from the Punta del Segno Nero,
and ey.tending in a chain of several miles, vhieh on tlie side of the sea descends in pre-
cipices and craggy declivities. These lavas, with respect to their composition, w ill not
greatly attract the attention of the volcanist, since in that they do not differ Irom those
of other volcanos ; they will only excite his notice for their curients, which in some
places descend separately, and in others intersect, and pass over each other. For the
extent of three miles they do not appear to have suft'ered any alteration but that which
is the effect of the atmosphere, and which in them is extremely small ; but when we
arrive opposite to Saline, and tack the boat towards the Strait of Vulcano, we fmd
them all more or less decomposed by sulphureous acid fumes. They presenia highly
VOL. V. BR
180
fl'AM.AN.'.ANi';, IRAVEL:
varied scenery, from the diversity f)!" eoloiirs they exhibit ; amout,^ which the red and
white are most coiispiciioiiij. On a nuirer ex.nninution tiiey are found soft, and some of
them pulverisable ; bnt the (kconipusi'ion only reaches to a small depth ; Uiese lavas
.still presirviiit,r, in their internal puts, tluir hard {^rain and natnral compactness. Several
of them areeovired w idi aeriisl of sulphate of lime (selenite.)
'J'he lavas thus ehani^ed In the action of iluse s.ilts, extend only from the sea -shore to
die piirt ojiposite \'iileano; li i\ in;;-, lioui \ir, some intervening- vacancies. Such is that
denominattd I.a (Irotta (kiln Si;;ii()ni, foinud by a sjjacious incm-vation of the shore
hollowed out of the lava, wliicii may In icinitd a breccia, since it is composed of n
numlxr of ani;iilar and ineij,nlar pii ces of lava of a pctrosiliceous base, united tojj^ether,
and which, not luini^- ixtrcnicly solid, has easily been broken and excavated by the ac-
tion of tin w avts.
rrocecdintr farther we lind the sea make an incurvature, and form a small bay called
the \'aile di Muria, w hich, from the interesting objects it presents, merits to be somewhat
particularly described. On its side's rise high and steep rocks of lava, half demolished,
the fallui pieces of which lie in hea[)s on die' sliore. In several ])laces this lava exhibits
no traces of having stdl'ered aii}- alteration Irom the action of the sulphureous acids ;
but in others a decomposition very sensibly appears ; nor is it wanting in incrustations
of sulphate (jf lime, of a red tinge, though some remain very white! But neither in
these places, nor in others before mentioned, do these fumes any longer act, no smell
of sulphur is pcreei\cd, nor any vapour seen ; and it is probable that all remains of
internal conllagration have long since Ixen extinct.
Among these lavas we likewise find enamels and pumices. Sometimes the former
are separated Irom the latter, and sometimes one part of the same piece is pun\ice and
the othn- enamel. '] he latter is opaque, of a cinereous colour, friable, of a scaly grain,
and, as [ judge, of a petrcjsiliceous base. The pumice is of the class of the compact and
heav\', and of ;\ lilainentous grain. Both the pumices and enamels frequently contain
lellspars, though scarcely discernible, and some scales of black shoerls.
Both these IxKlits produce in the furnace a black enamel, with many bulibles in that
.illbrdtd b\ the enanul, biU fewer in the product of the pumice : the" shoerls and felt-
spars fuse in botli.
Among thise decompounded lavas we meet with certain curious and beautiful ob-
jects, which di rive tlieir origin, in my opinion, from (iltration. Two of these I will de-
,eribe, after lia\i:ig given some idi a of the lava in which tluy are observed.
This lava is whiti., hiabktoa eirfaiii depth, and manifestly shew s a decomposition by
sulphureous acids, h is of a petrosilicious base, in many places disposed in strata ; and
its stratification is probably liiat of the stone from wh'ieh it originatefl. It is full of
small cells, and oiha- niinule cavities, within which the t)bjects I mentioned make dieir
appear;aie< .
The fust of these consists of minute crystallizations of shoerls. From die internal
.ides of several of tliese cells and eaviiies project very slender shoerls, which form some-
times a kii.d ol plunu, at utlurs a fan in miniature, at others a truss or bunch, and at
others they are detaehal, and, when viewed widi the lens, resemble minute bristles of a
dark chesiiut colour. A similar appearance 1 observed in the lissuresof a lava of Solfa-
tara.>' I ainof opink' ll i^. to be ascribed to llllration, after die hardening of the lava;
since, tliough it is e.tainly very common to fic.d shoerls in lavas, they are always found
incorporated within them, in the same maniu r as they existed hi the stone, their original
matrix, and never detached irom tlie l;i\ a, as in the present case.
- S«i: Chiip. II.
4
I.V TI!£ T\Vr» :;UILIEH.
1ST
The second filtration has produced small (|ULirl;',ose crystals; and tin; rnaiUKr in uhiih
ihcy arc distributed in the lava, and their pnulij^ions uuniher, render lliuii a vcrv sin
pular plunonu lion amont; \()lcanic objects. \\lKrt\er the lava is scai)rons, wlKiwir
it has iblds, sinuosities, cavities, or fissures, it is full oftluse crystalli/.uions. The lar.i!;er
c.r\ stals extend to three lines and a hiilf in diniensinn ; but these are extremely rare, and
ahnojl al\va\ s ill-formed. TJ>e {greater part are about half a line. When \vc view :i
l)iece of this lava exposed to the sun, it sjiarkles in e\try |)art ; but on a more attentive
examination we discover the siii[>-le, minute, (piurii'ose crystals, which m ly be discerned
still niorc clearly by the aid of a lens.
These crystals L'X'ue rally consist of an hexa;';o;ial jM'i.sm, infixed !)y the lower part into
the lava, and in the iip|)(.r tcrnunatcd by an hexagonal p\ramid, the sides of which arc
for the most part isosceles trian,L;ks. The Ibnn of lhi.se pyrai\iids, hfjwevir, is not al
ways the sami', neither with respect to the nmnbir nor the lif^ure of tin; -,i(U s, and the
same is to be observed of the prisms. Three crystals alone, alnon,^• the i>,Teat number I
examined, were terminated by two pyramitls : the prism was attached to the lava in ii
few points, and the pyramids i)rojected out. This kind of crystals is extremely bril-
liant, and of the first water. Thire is scareel\ one which is not streaked trans\ erst ly liki
rock crystals. The most retrnlar an. in small cavities, w itiiout, however, entirelv cover
ing the sides of them, as is usual uitli the t^eodes. Not a few of them likewise arc
found out of these cavities, in some parts of the lava: these arc frequently short and
grouped, not without sonic confusion of the prisms and pyramids.
The luva which is embellished with these cr\ stallii^ations forms immense rocks, and
vast elevations hanging overtlie sea, which, wherever tlicy are broken to u certain depth,
arc found to contain these cr} stals, accompanied by capillary shoerls, such as have been
already described; but the latter are not very luimennis.
It is well known that rock crystals sometimes contain within them extraneous bodies,
such as small tufts of amiaiuhus or asbestus, metallic sulphures, earthy particles, and
even crystallized shoerls of various sizes. I have in my possession a group of needle-
formed cr} stals, from Mount St. Goiluird, within w hicli are se\en small prisms of black
and striated shoerl. The same may be observed in these minute crystals, relative to the
capillary shoerls, as will appear from th.e follow ing i'acts : First, I has e found in a iissurc
of the lava, a quartzose crystal, containing a group of capillary shoerls, in part included
within it and partly projecting out. Secondly, the ajiex of a similar group or tuft pro
jcctedfrom one side of the same i)iice of lava, and buried itself, with extended threads,
within the pyramids of three crystals that Ibrmed a knot. Thirdly, one crystal was per
forated from side to side by a needle of shoerl, the two ends of which projected out ;
and many similar needles projected from the surface of another crystal. I might i)ro-
duee many other instances of these sports of nature ecpially curious ; but these appear to
me sufficient to prove my assertion, as also another truth, which is, that the formation of
these c:i-f>illary shoerls must have preceded that of the quartzose crystals; otherwise it
is impossible to conceive how the former should have jjenetrated the substance of the
latter.
1 have generally experienced that the decomposition of lavas was an obstacle to their
perfect fusion ; and this was die case in the present lava. In the furnace it \itrilicd su-
periicially, with some beginning of internal fusion ; but the pieces still preserved the
form they iK-fore had. Having broken se\cral of these pieces, I examined the cavities,
which, according to the preceding observations, must contain the crystals of w hich I
have been speaking. I in lact found them there, and, to m}- great surprise, perfectly
unchanged; as I could not discern, in ehher theprismsorpyrauiids, the slightest flaw or
n B 2
18h
ii',VI.I.ANr;ANr:i «ii.\vel:
:>criilch,aii(l tlicv w n ivlaiiudiluir hnllianry and transparency. I observed that some
ol* them had l)Len ovc rdowt d, il' I may use the term, by the lava superlicially re-melted,
to one-third or a !i;ilf i)illie jiri.sm, and some ol' them quite to the base of the pyramid;
but the part \\liiv:h rt)se above the la\auas perfectly well preserved. Very diftereut was
the case w itli the slioerls, which, by tlK:ir meltiii|j,-, had left blackish spots on the lava,
thoui^hinmore th>tu oiu' ortheselhe tr.icesol' the siuKrl mit^ht still be distin.ijuishcd.
A third stone, tiie orit;in of u hich I Iik<\\ ise ascribe to nitration, is a semi-trans|xuvnt
'•halcedonv, of a milky wimeiicss, u iili a sli^iitly bluei->li cast. It is found in renilbrm or
kidnev-^lulHd piece.., within tiie lavas of tlie above-mentioned Valle di Muria, and still
jnorc plentifully on the sea-shore. The smallest are an inch in diameter, but the largest
eii^dU, and soi\ie twelve inches. Tlu n are few of them which have not knol)s and ca-
vities ; the latter eommonly lorm geodes of minute (luart/'.osc crystals, but of which little
more is discernible than the pyramid. It is well known that chalcedonies diiler very
much in hardness. The pr'-.eni are extremely hard, and, from the strength and (piantity
of the sparks they give u i:h stei 1, ef] lal llu best (linls. They will likewise cut facti-
fious glass ; but in this they do not t xeel the small ijuartzosc crystals produced by lib
tration, of which we have just spoken.
On breaking some of these chalcedonies, one of them was foimd to contain two extra-
neous bodies ; that is, a small piece of lava and some sulphate of lime crystallized ;
which were probably taken in by the particles of the chalcedony, while in a state of fluidity
or softness.
These substances, which are found on and within the lavas, and are foreign to them,
derive thtir origin, in my opinion, Irom ihtir decompoaiitju causidby the sulphureous
acids, or even b) the injin-ies of the atn'osphere. '!'he C(jherence of thei«' constituent
parts being destroyed, particles of then\ are carriid away and (k posited Ijy the water in
the cavities andfis-aires of the la\as, where, from the atiiniiy o; aggregation, they pro-
duce stalaetiiieal eoneiLtions of dillerent kinds according lo their resi)eeiive natures. II
the lapidarious moisture be a nii.\tiire of silex, alumine, magnesia, lime, and iron, in cer-
tain proportions, it will crystalline into shoerls ; or if it be enlirtlj or principally silice-
ous, it will i)ro(hice cpiart/'iosc crystals. If again this moisture, in w hich the silex is so
abundant, contain likewise a small (piantiiy (jf alumine, it will consolidate into masses of
ehalcedony, which will take the form of the cavities tliat have received the moisture.
This latter stone has been disco-, ered in other lavas. Such are the Vicentine, called
tLnidri \'icLi)tini, from the drops oi' water which ihey sonKlinies contain. My specimens
have none; but I doubt whetlivrany have been found equal to them inside in \()l<:anic
countries. In scjiul- of them, their milky w liiteness i^ interrupted by rose coloured sj.'ots ;
\vhieh colour is prolxibly derived from the iron that tinged the lava before its decompo-
sition.
Before I conelisde this chapter, two tilings more remain to be mentioned, which I ob-
served belore I returned to the haven of Lipari, which is distant about three miles from
the Valle di Muria.
First, there are two rocks within the channel of \'ulcano ; one nearly of a triangular
ihape, a hundred and lifiy-two feet high, and twenty in l)rcadth. It is called Pictra
Lunga, and is remaikable for a kind of gate in the middle of it, through which small
ves:^e!s may pass. The other is of the same height, but has greater breadth, and is about
two hundred paces distam from the former. The mattir of which both are formed is
ihc same ; that is, a decomposed lava, of a petrosiliceous base, and extremely resembling
that of the Valle di Muria, which contains the quartzcjse and shoerlaceous crystalliza-
r-ions ; though in this none are to be found. The lavas of Lipari extending along the
%
IN CHV. 1 WO au II, IK^.
lUly
Mu.rc III Ironl of tlicsc two rocks, are partly of the same rpi ;Iity, v,,u<.!i mcl.ms mc f.
lulkvi' that anciently these lavas fonned one continued whole with the two rocks, tnouf;h
the I'orn.er is distant Ironi them two hundred and Ibrty feet, and tlic latter a lull mile ;
iinddureforcthat the channel which separates N'ulcano from Lipari, and which is l)ur
narrow must once have hcen much narrower. I have likewise Irefjuently observed,
Mheii the sea h.isheeii pcrlectlv calm, rocks underwater, between the two aimyc-incn^
tioned and the shore of Vulcano ; whence it appears to nie not improbable that this island
was formerly united to Lipari, and that the incessant beatin|- of the waves has m time
fonned this channel or strait, in the same manner that many odier straits, ol much
greater breadth, have been produced by the sea. ,„ ^
The second observation I hail to make respects the appearance of Monte della diiar-
dia as seen from the sea. It there appears bifurcated, from the projecting,' of a much
smaller mountain, called Monte Gallina, from its north-east side. The roots oi ulontt
della Guardia, on die south and south-east side, are in the sea; and some parts ol ihein
aflbrd pumices, which higlier up are buried under vast accumulations of lava that has
flowed over them. Besides the pumices, several of these lavas, in the direction ol the
south-west, preseiU large masses of glass, partly detached, and partly incorporated with-
in them. If to these two kinds of vitrifications we add the others which he under the
castle of Lipari, and on its sides, and w hich make a part of the base of the Monte delUi
Guardia, we shall perceive how much tliis mountain must have al)ounded in vitreous
eruptions ; an abundance which will appear still greater when we come hereafter to con-
sider its more elevated parts.
These are the most important objects whicli presented dicmsclves to my observation
in my excursion round tlie base of'Lipari; and If in describing them I may appear to
have been somewhat too diffuse, their number and importance, aiul my desire to give the
reader an accurate idea of tlum, must be my excuse. The interior piirt of the island,
which I shall now proceed to consider, will afford me an opportunity to be more con-
cise*
iV(.>
i V A 1. 1, A N ii A M
1 J! AV£I,l.
VOLUMK VnV. I'lTIRI).
CIIAPTKR XVI
MPARl
PART THI-: SIXONl).
'>liM:U\ ATIONS MADE 1\ TIIK INTKHIOR PARTS OF LIPARI, AND SEVERAL
OF ITS M(JUNTAINS.
Kxtrcnuly irn .;i;l:ir nppianincc of iliis island.... No cluuactirizcd crater cIisrovt-ral)!c in it....
Coiijtciiiiv ilKil iIk- Alontc San Angdo, and the IMontc dcllu (iuardia, the iiijjlR.st inonntains
in Lipaii, wiie pnidiucd by two distinct volcanos....Kfflf)rcscenccs of muriate of ammoniac
(s:il ammoniac in two caverns near the jjluin calkd La Valle....Curioiis volcanic l)reccia....
Tile volcar.ic tula which, fm one side, covers the whole mountain of tlie celebrated Stoves (or
vapour i)aths) of Ei pari, has every appearance of ha\ injtj been an earthj' current ; and is remark-
al)le for containing true ligneous coal.. ..Conjectural inquiries into tiie origin of this.... The road
tliat Kails from liu-town to the Stoves, formed, in a great measure, of tufa corroded by the rain-
water....Various bodies oI)strvable within this corroded tufa.... Detached pieces of enamel,
uhich include man\- small l)u!bous bodies that ajipearto l)e i5arnets....Comparison between these'
and the garnet:, of Wsuvius.... Enamel of the Eiparese garnets, w hich has for its base the horn-
itone....l)( taciud lavas in the road leading to the stoves.... Volcanic chrysolites in a lava with a
horn-stone base.. ..These cinysolilcs compared with those of Etna... Large pieces of red porphv-
IV which do not sei ni to have suflered fusion.... None of these bodies disposed in current's;
\viKnce it is probal)le tliat th<y have Ij en thrown into the air bv some volcano..,. A spacious
plain of tufa reiuUred cultivable, situated btyond the Monte dellaStufe, which aftords numerous
pieces of the finest and purest glass found in Lipari....Local origin of this glass,... Hed of pumi-
ces on the t xtensive ciurent of tuia ijcfore mentioned... Stoves of Lipari described....Kemains
of conflagrations of sulphur undi r them, and in their environs.... Prodigious number of lavas
decomposed In the action of sulphureous acid vapours.... Oxyde of pure iron deposited on some
ol these lavas. ...Variety of colours which they present to the eye.. ..Their decomposition usuallv
in the inverse proportion of the chpth of thiir masses....U'hen freed from the decomposition
V hich renders it difficult to ascertain their nature, they are usually found of a petrosiliceous
base....'! his decomposition an obstacle to their fusion in the furnace.... Explication of the cause
of this change. ...Sulphates of lime \ ariously c(jlourtd, and adhering to the decomposed lavas....
Iron, oxvdated, and moiiilltdin \arious manners, the causi: of the different colours of the de-
composed lavas, and sulj-iuites (jf lime.... Discoveiy of several amorphous and crystallized zeo-
lites near the stoves.... Jilly which tluy form with mineral acids.. ..Emit bright flashes when on
the jioint of inthing, and swell considerably <jn their actual fusion. ...'IVrms of comparison be-
tween these -/.colitis an;l those f.f other countries.. ..Tiieir production not bv the dry but the hu-
mid way.. ..Though the zeolites of neveral volcanized countries are probably formed within thp
sea, this does not seem to !)._ the origin of tiiose of Lipari.... Instances of zeolites produced in
fresh water.. ..Springs lA hot water which sujjply the baths of Lipari....Another prodigious ac-
cunuilationof tleco\iij)(JS( (I lavas, and sulpliureu of lime, on tin southern side of the island....
Perhaps there is i,o \olcain/.. d country- in Europe wh. re tbs' sulphureous fumes iss.iing from
buhterraneau conflagrations are so extensive as at Lipari.... \'urilications of Campo Bianco, and
'.lie Monte (klla Castagna, which arc foimd attached to those of the Monte della Stufe, the
IN THE I\VO SIClMl'o.
l'.>l
\Fonlr San An^clo, and otluf i,I.uc.....Pioof. thut nhnnst ivo-fhiraH ol I.r,nvi, ^^\rx\^ M
Huin.t.vii mil.san.l a Ik.U' in < inumr. ,vm<:.', i.ic c.mi.osr.l oJ vi!Mli.:mMn llu' niaur.als ui
uliiil. this i.la.ul is coin|.Ms.<l priiicii.ullv .hiiw.l In.m ill. in-in.s.l. n, K U'.;.:.js u> i\w muss, an.J
l„.m.st.MUH, inuart sin.i.lv IWa hv sul.lur.n. ous .nmlm .tions and in a .nil KivaUr jkiii vun
lk<I....NotN.illi 'landing ltu'innn.nsv-arcn.uul:aiMiisnllliisviuili.aU..n. an .• lia-.i;dniaiy iniui
filu „1- luatnoi iKc.ssaiv K. la- s.,i| |.o.u ,l....An . m> i)ll<.i. in the jmnn- -. •• ..niii.nlin,.; hoin ^r. -
niu....l'Vw m.tui'sUrursl.van.iui- aiith.-rsnlativr lo tlu- luvs.d I.i|.an ; th..u;;,Iiu. kn-.w Imn,
Ind.il.ital.lc anth-.riti.s, ihat Ix.Ui di. idn, I and tlir citN rxist- d Ik l._.r ■ th. I n-iui VNar.....N-
cn.plions in lliis island dc.cnladliv ir,,t(.iA...a^.l.lHiivs, vis.l.l. hv nud-'i^d-jn. ..I.mia - ,hn an-
cicnl tinu's....'niis island, tlv |n-nihi.v oi' sni.t.nan.an c(.nHai',ratiun, liad ani\f I al its ijivaUM
climcnsions. luiinc' it was notici(ll)> any wiiur.
TO acquire- a just knon-kcl;,^- of tlu- interior part of a mountainous volcani/rd coun-
try, the best nutlujcl, as it appears to nu', is first to ascend the hiKhcst mountain, a.ul.
after havin.r examined the summit, to turn the eye downward, and ..bserve the ehaiii
of smaller mountains that Mirround it. Wc may t!ms, at one -laive, discover the lorm
of these inferior mountains, their intirchini^aable conneeuon, and the relations xyincli
they bear to each other, and to the primary mountain, \Mth otlu r nnportant objects.
which had we first ascended one of the lower eminences, wc should not have l)ecn able
to ascertain with equal precision and clean Kss.
After, therefore, having made rcsearclv.s, with the trreatist ddiircnce, around tlic
shore of Lipari, when I proceeded according;- to my ori-inal intention, to exi)lore like-
wise the internal parts of the island ; I first ascended to the summit ol the Monte han
Anffclo, situated to the north of the citv of L\\y^Y\ ; this beintr tlie hij^dicst mountain in
the island. Hire the whole ot the island on sented itself, at once, to my view, and I
could perceive that, far from having a c(;nical fiKuiv, such as is that ol Stromboli, and
in a certain manner of Vulcano, it is composed olgrcjups ot broken and halt destroyed
mountains confusedly heaped together ; which give it a most irregular appearance. It
is evident that the volcanic (ires have raged in many places, and that, Irom their too
great proximity to each other, they have not been able to form those distinct cones
which are so observable in Vesuvius and on Ktna. But the matters ejected b\ the supe-
rior volcanos, pouring ujion those which issm d from the lower, have produced m every
part confusion and disorder. From the summit of Etna we may discover a multitude
of subjacent craters, well characterized ; but from that of San Angelo I could not per-
ceive one. There are, indeed, many openings and hollows to be seen, which once
perhaps were fiery mouths; but none ol these cavities have at present the figure of an
inverted tunnel, possibly because they have been in part liiled up and destroyed by sub-
sceiucnt eruptions, or bv time. . , i- ij
M. Dolomieu observed at the summit of this mountain a circular plain, surrouncled
by eminences shelving towards the inside, wluch he imagined might be the remains of
an ancient crater. This conjecture, after a careful examination of the spot, d(jes not
appear to me improbable. The same naturalist likewise supposes that this mountain,
the height of which is nearly a milt Jjovc the sea, was the first that was lormed m the;
island through which the volcano burst fortli, and which served as a base and support
for the other mountains that were thrown up afier\vards. This opinion is extreinely
plausible ; but the fact may likewise be, in my opinion, that this mountain, at the time
of its production, or very soon afterwards, had for its companion the Monte della
Guardia, which looks towards die south, and of whicii I have before spoken ; both be-
cause the latter is separated Irom the former, and b-causc it is little inferior to it in height.
mm
\9J
sVM.i. y v>: \ N 1
1 R \ V r. I. c
l-'roni ilic idoiis s\i!»p:cstcil Inn \iiw nl i!u phiri.s thiinsclvcs, I conceive it not impio.
hihic til It llus( two nv)iint:iins, whicli ri.sr so miicli hii^luT llvif t'lt nst, liavt- l)it.n
prodiuicl \)\ two distinct vftk'aiu)s, and^\l^c the tirst fli. t iim r(j( d Irom the sea ; form-
iii|; th( n two sni.ill islands, which .'ItirwanK, cnlari-inj; their li.isc, united into one ;
lor it i-. W( II knowii thatothir volcanic islaiiilsori,L;;in:illy consisud orsc\X'ral parts, which
al'ti ruards W( re joined. 'I'o ilase two nMinMt.;ins siihsi qiK lit i riiptions made new addi-
tions, nntil at Uni^ih the whole oi' tin island ol Lijjari was prodticed, which, front the
irnsionolihe rains and the si a, is now e( rt.iiiil\ liss tiian it once was.
Troni Monte San .\n(;-elo, I passed to tlii' Monte dtlla (iiiardia, which on the side to-
wards the s( a piisints niil\ steep and 111)^':,^ d pncipieis of lava, and cf)nsi qucntly is
(!i priveil «>!' all Mj^ttation and vinlnri" ; Imt on the land side, which is opposite in one
part to till' city, it is lonned with ji;entle dicliviti(s, and covered with \iiieyards; for,
as its soil is tniact ons, it less resists cnltix ation th.ni ,uiy othc r voloaiuc prodnc.t. ^\'hilc
btandini; on the snntm". ' was still tnore conlirined in the opinion, that thismonntain is
not an acecssaiy to, or prolon,<;ation ol, that ol San An_nclo ; hnt that it Ibrnts a whole
ofits*!!, and mav Uecalkil |)riniary ecpially with the other, la)m thcdistanci between
thi m, and the wide valU y, running iroin east to west, by which they are separated.
Ha\inj;' visited till SI' two mountains, which are the loftiest in the island, I proceeded
next to ix.'.mine the lesser eminences, and loinid additional confirmation of what I have
already observed ; I mean that tin si eminences have entirely lost the true form of vol-
canic craters, so nuieh have the mutters ijected from ihem intersected etch ottier, and
confusedly int( rmixed. The lonj; and miknown series of years that has elapsed since
these eruptions must, no dou!)t, have contributed to increase the confusion, Except-
irii;-, therefore, some few Hat places, and practicable declivities, which the inhabitants
lvi\e rendi n (1 cnlti\al)le by ;:^reat labour, Lipari is a ruinous pile of horrid preci])ices
i-iiji-^td clin^, and enormous masses; and there is no summit or projectint^ part of a
mountain which does not exhibit manifest indications of its future fall and destruction.
The materials of w liieh these ruins are formed are pumices, enamels, and j^lusses, which
! shall not deserilie, becausi they are partly the same, and partly extremely analogous to
tiiose of which I ha\t alriady j^iven tin description.
Some ol the natixes, by the accoiuits they ga\e mr, t xcitcd my curiosity to visit a
e.iu ern situated in a small plain called La valle, about a (piarter of a mile to the west
of the city. This cavern has its mouth in a rock of dc composed lava, and a man may
Walk into it to the distance of lilt} paces. Its sides are covered with tfflortscences of
muriate of anunoniac, as were likewise those of another small cavern in the same rock.
This salt must ha\e been formed by sublimation, having been reduced to vajiour by
subterraneous lires, and thus attached itsell to the sides ol these two caverns, as it is lonnd
attached in ntany other volcanic places ; but of these lires and ammoniacal vapours no
traces whatever ik.w exist.
In this slioit ixiursion I found bv the wav a volcaiiio breccia, which, on account of
the hell ro!;eiie( us substances it contained, it would be imjjroptrto jiass without notice.
It is found in large isolated pieces, but I was unable to discover from w hat vein it de-
rived its origin. Its princi[)al substance is an earthy lava, of a blueish gray, a coarse grain,
and little hardness. In this were ineiosid the following bodies :
First, fragments of two kinds ol lava ; liie one bhick, of a scaly fracture, and which
moved the magnetic ntedle at the distance of two lines ; the other of a gray grotnid, a
Very rough surlaee, an unequal Iracture, which gave sparks with steel, and contained
small plates oi feitspar. Both were of the horn-stone base, and emitted a strong argilla-
ceous odour.
*«»
IN 1 II K 1
- i w I M I, .
ly.'i
btcoiuUy, several pieces of vitreous hi\it, ol a vcn he;, utiCiil colour, httuotn a <rrcQh
uk\ a l)Iiic : L\ its smootliiuss, cUar IV;' •tun, iis ii'-.prd, juid v/ant of hardncv,, \i n
•iC'inhlc.i the pitth-stoiu', or pitLli-bKiitle.
Thirdly, immcroiis siikiII pieces of a eiiureoiis eon. pact pumice.
'/oiiithi), pieces ofa uhitislisdni-traiisparciii ,!:;lass.
Filihly, snijill pieces n|' a colourless i^l.iss, resemliliii!,^ in frauspareufv factitious f^las'
The largest piece was foiuuen hues iu leugth, anil ei};ht iu breadtli, aiul was, like ih'
others, buried in the breccia.
These five species of volcanic productions were certainly not natural to the substnntt
of the lava; lor their Iractuivs and aii-Ies arc vir_\ visible, and b\ canfullv breakiur
the lava they may be extraetrd uilirc. \\'e uuist then lore (ouelude that" tin \ wen
absorbtd and inclosed in the lava nluu it was iu moiiou, and thus were consfjiidated
into one body.
In nuikin^ these observations a iloubi suir^rcstcd itsilf. 'J'hough to the naked eye.
and likewise to the touch, the vitre(-us lava appears perfectly smooth, Mt, when viewed
with a lens of a stronjjj ma!.jnifyin}r power, its surface appeared full of verv minute fis
sures. At least, if this was not observable in all, it was in several pieces of both th(V
kinds of glass. I therefore conjectured, that when these substances wire in an ignited
itate, a current of water might have passed over thun ; or that tluv siuldcnly eanie in
contact with the cold air ; unless we rather choosi- to suppose thal'ilKse liss'ures wen
produced, when these vitreous bodies, in a frigid state, were suddenlv enveloped in du
fiery torrent. ' '
But the celel)rated Stoves of Lipari aj)pear to be the object which most excites llu
curiosity of tra\ ellers ; I could not therefore onut to visit them. 1 must, however, con
fcss, that the road which led to them alVorded me more instructive obiects than tin
stoves diemselves.
These stoves lie to the west of the city, at the distance of four miles, and sr)mewhat
beyond the summit ol a mountain, which, after those of San Angcloand della (iuardia,
isoneol the highest m the island. The road I went was that whirl, leuls imimdiatelv
Irom the city to the stoves, and the only one which can be travclKd witlvjui «'Teat dilU'-
culty. It IS in a great degree the work of rain-waters, which have made a deep cxca
v.ation in an immense mass of tufa. In more than one place in this w ork I have spoken
ol volcanic tulas but almost always incidentallv. The present species of this substance
rc(|Uiresto be treated of somewhat more at length.
At the beginning of this work, when speaking of the volcanic tufas of P.jsilipo. I said
and endeavoured to prove that it was probable they were formed bv siimv eruptions;'
though I w ou Id not deny that ashes, sand, and other subtile UKittei^ ejected bx- volcinos
penetrated either by the rain-waters or those of the sea when the^ covered tlie bases
ol the burning mountains, have been consolidated iiUo some tufas'.*-^ The tula of Li-
pan, ot \\hich I now speak, has every appearance of havin- Ixc n an ci'ithv current \i
begins at about a he ndred paces from the city, and continues without interruption to
beu,ndthe summit of the Monte della Stufe,or Mountain of the Sua cs. This moun-
tain, like inost ol die others, varies considerably in its diHuxut parts, iu one place |)resent.
mg gentle declivities, and in an another steep and rugged d'.seents; lure phiins nearly level
and there precipices almost perpendicular. The tufa ^^■nU which it is eo\ e.ed takes ex-
acil) ihv same course, and sometimes curves, and as it were waves ou the surface : nor
iloes It ui the least difter m its sinuosities and windings, horn the most completely ch;.
VOL. V.
• See tluip. II.
c c:
t'.M
I'Abl. \N/ . nTj t It 1 -. I, i,:
ractcrii'.al ciiru'iii-nl lava, ulii« hit likc'\vi?»c; n-si inliK-s by hciiij; di-.|.(>s(il in lials hin^
one uMrtlti uilu-i, a*>a|)|)iats ill ilmsi plai i> uITk li lia\(. liLi-innost i ortiKUd li\ tlu' rain.
I tlunlcrc W.I.I (<!' (i|)iui(iii lint tliistiila had l)(.iti a ^triani.il I nia\ iim' du i'X|'i\ ssioi),
oi' slini\ Mil>s),iii('( s tliat li.id lloUrd down die- nujlllituiii ; ,is C.s.iiii|iks aK liol u.ililiii^!;
nl' sinnlariiu|iii()ns iimdiKHd in diL liiiinid ua\ in tlic luotin'ains \ csuvitii, I'.tna, and
Uida.
I'm lull' ;; dilli- iilty iircMiilrd itMlfin «'|i|i»'sitii-ii to iliis li\ pntlu sis. Flid diis pari
ol' du inoiiiitaiii Ikui iiiiiii(l.;tul hy a tiiinni (>| \\;)i(i- isMiiii^ liuiu the i.iidi, wlii.ii its
violinct li.id ciastd, the niori' iii-avy licidits nnist liavf siihsidul lo tju hoitoin in oIjc-
diciiti. n»du l.iws tir!;i.nit\ , du kssliiav\ lia\c ri.nuiincd ahovc tluni, and the liu:htt':>t
lu!\i' «)( ciipit (I till hii^hist \)btc ; whit h, ho\vc\tr, is not the fact, since, as ue shaii sie,
Ilia suMlhlrpiJi widiin the Uil'.i, arc lonnd l.irj^i. inas^e;* ol' lavui., cnaintls, and f«lasses.
Iliit it dots not nppiar tf> nu' iinprohaljU' thauhcM' niasjjcs ma) have hien thrown out
tVoin sonii; l)nrnin!.j nn)Uth, altir ihe haixUningor the tula, within whieh t!ity ha\c not
piiieliMtid dii |).
Not only the position and wiiidiiifi; course of this tufa c)\i'r the back and sides of the
mountain snllieiintly prove that it onee liowed ; it.s v( ry nature is a strou).;- eoiiiirma-
tion (>l this lact. It is not an a;;f,'ri|,'ation of asiu s and saml ; a nd.Mure ol" lia^nu nts
oI'sIkiuIs, leltspars, and lavas di.euniposul, and reiidei\.d lailhj, and lasteiud lof^itiur
hy the action ol the wattr, l)eeoniinp;so hard as to be cut into pit ces proper lor build
inf^", as is the ease with ni'.iny oilur tufas; but it is nierilj an arj^iilaceous (arlli, riseiix-
blinj!^, from its soiiiass, tiie iiardeiiul nmil of rivirs. lis et^loiir is a thill K*"''> ' '^''
structure somewhat }j;r:iiiuh.r, aiid sa \ icldiii;^' that it may be eiiinil>lt tl anil pul\crised
betwitnthe fniL^'rs. It is liL;Iit, atlhei( s sli^litly to the inside t)f the lip, t mits a feeble
irp;illaci(;u:> odour, and, when imiiursttl in waitr, }^MViilil\ imbibts it iiit \ii\ part.
In the furnace it llist ac'iuirctl a iiddish brown colour, autl alicr\\;prds llu bl.ick co.
lour of iron. It became so lianl that it i',a\e sparks with steel, without ho\\e\er vitri
fyiii};, except that its surface assumctla kind of vitreous varnish.
The dtpth of this tufa is tli.'li nut in dilferent parts of the mountain. In some
places it is se\<.ral Ictt tlct p, in others but a lew, and in othirsthcri. is so i^ical a tpian-
liiyof it that, notwithstandins.^ the excavations made in it by tiie rains, I was unable to
I'jccrtain its dipt!). l»ut in cmit place where 1 ct)uid discover the bottom, I ol)scrved
ihiit it ristid on a bctl t)f |)umic< s, p;irtly |ni!verisc(l, and piartly in (Kiatihcil pitcts a'j-
proacliii,;.'; lo ll.c f.^Iobcsc loiiu. 'llicy bcltjiit^ lo the class of the lightest ol these su
.taiuis. It appears, therefun , iiidubiiuble, that these pumiies had been thrt)Wii out of
the burning mouth of some \t)U;aiu>, biforc the liowingoriiie tufaccouscurrtni.
'I'lils tula presi nu il a viry um \pccted plu nomt iioii. On !)riakiiig it, its fractures
wxhibikd sni.iU black parru;ks, which were di^tiucLly recognised lo be true ernil, from
;heir tjlackiK.ss, lightniss, dr\ness, the facilii} wiih which lluy broke, and their small
digree of harthn-ss. Some of them, likrv\i-,e wIkii e\|K)sed to lire in tlic opt n air,
funi(.d, anil IncLimercd liot ; others cuiiLtid a little llame. 'I'lie laUer had not l)een
perfectly reduced to ctwl, as the liljrous parts of the wooil wire still to be seen. These
coals Were small c\linders from iwt) (jr ii:rcc lines in lengili to twelve or fourteen, and
of i)rf)porti(jaal iliickncss. 'I'luy ajjptaivd to have appcrtainid to branches ol trees oi
ihrubs ; the) aie buriitl in the tula al vavious dcpilis, and are lound, though thinly scat-
:cred, through its\v]iole e.Ment.
This fact, nevir before, to my knowledge, observed liy others in \oleanii; tufas,
might induce us to imagine thai the tw t; melliods, the humid and the dry, had here been
coaiuiued ; 'and thai the watery sliiuc when it liowed down the nuniutain. Iiad been [iv
%
r\ iiir I no ;, it iiii'.a.
It);''
iKiatttl l)\ tin firr in muIi a luamKrthiit it h.ul iull.muil, ..ml lonvuKd into ( m;iI, th'-
\i'f;t.t;»l)Ks it iu< t with in it-, v. ,iy. 'I'hi'. i spl.iii;iti<)ii is ('triiiinly iml Uw Irom «liHii uliiivs,
;'H llir lt;i(lir. lii)«l(M|l>t, ;iln;ul\ pt tri i\ i > ; it llwriinrr ni;i\' ;i|»|Uiir llinrf |i|i)l»;iM« tint
lliLt.iriln iiiii;i(l.iti')ii IkuI iii\(il\t(l. iiiitl (Mr;:^!! wiili itscU'. tin sr r.uliDiMCdtns '.tilni.m
res, which ivisttd pri'vioiislo its iriipiion, atid uhic hikiiviil ilvir origin i'vttm a shovM'i
oli^nitiil miitir h>uiu;^ luirni'i. hut iw.t i niin ly tf)nsiinu(l, ih'.' I" w jiliiit, which fic
hly vc|;(.t;>ii(l on tlu' (lulivitits nltln iniimit.iin.
Il has hiinalria<ly s;rul, that tin rapid (Ksciiit of thi- niin-wati i«, tm that ])arl of Um
niotiDtain uhidi li ads to tlu stovis, hasrnirodi d the tid'i to a ^nat di pili ; and It i^>in
the middle n| tin m.' toirosirins that \\i ni» 1 1 with vaii<ais Mthauic hudiis, \',hiih, Io;h'
ihcruiih ollurs l\ in>( in dii pul)lii: roail, nuiii will lo l)i' cKscril<i d.
Kirst, \\v lind |)ic(t.s olfnainil ol'ivcry M?,t', which, thoiiudi thi'V arc smooth with
oul, whiii hinkt n, haw, uithin, an an^'iilar liai tui\'. 'riicircolnur is a pair blue ; lhc\
have nof^rcai hrilliancy, nor arc tlu y vi ry hird, as tlu y lly in piccrs uhi n ilruck aj^ain;.'
tlu' stcil. 'I'lic <,nis( ol' tin want ol'hiiivlmss in this cnanul, nia\ Ik- ascrilud to lla
fissures, ni' which it is I'nll ; and tlusc, perhaps, are to he attribnied to tlu pieces ol
cnanul i)ein}^ nd-lu.t wIk n tiuy li II into the tufa not )et dry. 'I'he leltspars it e(jntain.
ha\e the sinui' < ra( k, and prohalily i'roni tlu' same lansi'.
In the same placts is joinid another kind of en nui I Cf)ntainin;^- a j;*reat miniher <»1
small bodies, which I w ill not ahsoluti ly alUrm to be )j;arnets, because I w.is not able to
niialjse them in- die humid wax ; but tin. ir t Menial characters, to;,'ether with the pr lof.
furnished by the dry way, almost induci- me to conclude tiiem such. In all my volcani:
researches I have never nut with any similar. In }j;eneral they liavc a bulbous fi};ure,
and arc of a blackish colour, w hicli in some inclines to a red. Their surface is smooth
and shininj^, their ncmt I'r.ictnn s l.mu liar, pcrlecti}' vitreous, and will cut.}f|ass. TIk
lar^';est are about thn e lines and a halt in ihiekness, and are opafpu' ; the smallest, about
the third part of a line, and arc scnu-transparent. 'I'luy f;ive sparks with steel, aiul
melt in the furnace into a black and scoriaceous eiuimcl. These charactirs, taken to
^ethcr, ci rlaiiily \s;\\v them a i;reat n'sei\iblanee to garnets : 1 shall not therefore hcsitat-,
to class them with that species of stone ; as their not beiii}; cr) sialliiied is of little im-
portance, since we know that tluiv arc also amorphous j^arnets.
While employed in the examination of these stones, I resolved to compare them with
the Vesu'.ian garnets ; for, in my eNcursion to that volcano, I had collected sevi ral dif-
ferent sjxcies of thiin on Monte Somnia, which is the ancient Vesuvius. 1 made seve-
ral experiments on four of these, of whieh the ibllow iii}; is the result.
The first species is found in a lava with a horn-stone base, of a yellowish p;ray coloiu',
an unequal surfaci', and of a consistence illile diHerent fnjm earthy, from the great al-
teration it has undergone ; not, as far as apin-ars, from sulphureous exhalations, but
from the action of the atmosphere, 'i'he garnets it contains have likewise sullercd In-
jury, having lost a part of their natixc lustre, and being easily broken or crumbled to
pieces from the multitude of miiiuie iissures and crai;ks in ihun. 'l'he\-, however, re-
tain somewhat of the vitreous character. Their colour is between a white and a gray.
.\t first view their figure appears perfectly globular; but on extracting thcni f.'r'Mn the
stone, their matrix (which may easily be done) and attentively examining them, they
are found to have facets, though it is not possible to ascertain the number of them, as
many of the angles have been defaced by time. I shall only observe, that having broken
one of these garnets into two ctjual parts, the perimeter of each half was octagonal.
This fracture at the same time shewed the texture of the garnet, which is composed of
c g '2
1«)h
.1 /\Lt.AN/.ANt'it rM.i\ i:i..
very thin circnhr kavis. Thi v (jfuiuils arc f»f dilllnikl Hizc>, iVom lour linos and 4.
hall to one-sixth n| a hnc.
Thi Inrnad ruhicis ihi' nKitii^-lax.i in a ronipart cnamtl of Hie colour of pitch;
but iilca\cN tla j^'arntts uiitoii. in d, which only hn'of; sonv \\hit uhiti r, nion \itrc.
ouH, and inure hard. The hlacktu s i ol' tlu* ( nanul lu iii^- a contrast to the u hiti nc>«s >)[
the ^;;arnits. a j^rc;* tniinlur «>!' the lamr htconu- conspictioiis, \\hi(h btlorc utrc not
\isihl( in till l.i\a; and, nnt\', iih>,(;tndin^ lluir cxtiinu ininutciuss, the} riniain nniii>
jdit d liy till lire.
Tlu fi:ariKts of thf second s|K'cicsf»re contained in a lava which has for its base a solt
horn-str)iu . 'I'luj are lar};cr than tlu furnu r, .ii\d entirely opaepie. They are uhiti' as
siiou , ami more brilliant in thiir liactnres than the nrecedin^;. Many of tluni an of a
round li;;ui°c , and inanilistlv shew a < r\stalli/.atioii imarions facets; uhieh, howiAir,
it is impossible to number as they bnak in pieces if uc attempt tu extract them horn
flic l.iva. Man\ others (»f them aif «>r\er} invf^nlar forms,
Se\< r.il ol this M c'liid spe<ii s of j;.irn( is iin Idsc w ithin them small prismatic shoerls,
of IJK (ohair and lustre ol asphaltiiin, which [iroljubly pre.e\ist(d completely formed,
iiid v.. le t.iken into the moisture from which the j^arnet (ierived its orij^in.
These ifaiuts are, likewise, infusible in the furnace, though the lava is converted into
a porous scoria.
'I'ht third kind is stronj^ly infixed in a heavy lava, u hich also has for its base the hurn-
stoiu, is of an iri>n-blaek, compact, but not snllicienily hard to ^ive sparks wiili steel.
The i^arneis, which are of a yillowish white coloiu", and some ol tlu in four lines in dia-
nutcr, lor ihe most part ha\e (lefts or lissiu-es, but in >nch a manner that in the rcjeiU
fractures the surf ice resend)les a round polypeialoiis llow<r.
Till furnace milted the l.iva, but not the garnets, which only acquired t!ie red colour
of coppi r.
'J'he garnets of the fourth and last species have four-and-twenly facets, and are .semi-
iransp.iicnt, white, and '.itnous. Tlu ir matrix is a compact lava of a horn-stone base,
which emits an argillaceous odour. In the furnace it changes into u black enameller
j)ro(luct, but the g;iri;els remain untouclu d.
On comparing these results with oilurs before detailed, wc shall find that the structure
of the N'esnvian garnets, so far as it is^itreoils and l.inullar, is similar to that of tliost
of Lipari ; but that, when exposed to the lire a dillerince is foniul between these tw,o
stones, the one easily milling in the furnance, and the other proving refractory.
Finding, therefore, that these four species of garnets were infusible in the furnace,
though continued in it for several days, I had recourse tf) e)xygenous gas (or dephlogis-
ticatidair) bv the action of whie;h lliev all melted, tluiii.'h slowlv. When the niatri.x
lava llowed like common gh.ss, the small pieces of }';-irnet within it remained unchanged ;
butat length fused, though without iiuorporating with the lava, so as to ibrm a homo-
geiKons whf)!e.
Those chemists and naturalists, who, b( fore me-, have' made experiments with fire on
the \'esuvian garnets, ha\e described results similar to those I ol)ser\ed. Ikrgmann
says these garnets n\elt w ith the blow-pipe alone', but a vehement lire is necessary.*
Saussure tells us, that a spotted lava (la\,i a oeil de perelrlx) which he found on Monte
Sonuna, ac(jnire(l, alter liibiun, a blick Mtriliiel ground, but that the' pol) hedrous grains
of this lava remained unchanged in the most violent lire ; and by polyhedrons grains it
Ui i'fu'''i''tiv \'i'Uii;iii'i'<
(N IHR rU'O 4i> ILh,«.
IU7
in ivicU'Mt ihaf In iiu;»ii>» uhal I and oflurs h;i\i' ( ..lit <l p:rinU'iJi.'' Willi rr^iucl to ilir
;irtiMn or (»svi;« MMiiN f.^is iipoM tilt in, \vi' in.i) rilirr'i I'liniiiinn, in lii> work on tin- Air
ol I'ir*. "'I'lu' uhitr «i|).if|ui' ^.tiiHtol \ ( tiivins," s,i} .iliis uiii<r, '* (hl'vr^lmm );.ir.
luiH propiii) so (mIIkI, in iliis, tliat it nults uithcxtn nic tlitlli'iili\ ('Aitli the uWitituMCi
ol' oxyf{ciiniiH ^:iH is licictolH: undi i'sto(ul) itul at U-n^tli, altir continn il chnilition, Ik
ronics a mass |)i iftc tly siinil ir to ({tiart/;, v\in in its liMctntv, and uliii li crackic!) in tikr
inanni r Ixtwt nx tin o * ili."
This kind ol ihtillition I iiaxc ohscrvid in the (ii\,f \iiriitiis of Karnits above iiu'iu
tioind, uJM n the) uiie in a slati •(!' rusion. The liist and ihird likewise |iriidueed two
win. ill niass< s nsi ndjlin^^qiiait/., hot iliose (iftlu second ui\d lourth saricty were spongy.
It is viiy possihlethat thii author «>iil\ made hit e.\|)«.inui ui . on oik speciis.
Some Uiiihtd naturalists are of opinion that the garnets ol \esu\ius an improperly so
denomiiiiiti (I . first, lK<.inse tlie} contain no iron , si condl_\ , Ik eauM ilu y liisi u itii dil'
liculiN ; .iiid, thirdly, hieause tluy diller in the jiroportionate i|(Mhiii s ol their con^ti-
luiut parts Iroiu those ol' true j;arnets. 'I'hese reason », howi\er, di» not appear tome
suilieicnt toe\chide them Irom hein^elassid with this kind of stones. It is true, that
iron is usnall\ eon', aiia. il in ^ariu ts, hut it is not essenii il lo tlu m ; as has heeii ohsrived
l>) Herrmann, who, in tr.iiispan nt ^;ariKts lound onl) i\, parts ol this inital. The ab<
BciiCf ot' iron, probably, tlurelbre, renders ihein so dillieull to I'li'-c. With respect to
their eonsiitueiit parts tin Swidisheluiuisl (lirnrmann) has obs rved, that the principal
of tluse is silex, the IK xt aluniini.', and th it which i«, Icist of all in 'pi mtity, linn. 'I'his
uiial} sis a^;rees with that made by Aeluird on some ot the purest Dohcmi.in f^arnetsi
and such a pro|)ortioii of the constituent principles is sulli( iently suitable to that of the
garnets of N'csuvitis, in which Ikr^inann IouikI about lilt) live parts of silex, thirty,
nine of alumine, and six of lime. And though tlu proporiion of the sikx to the
alumine is not entirely the sallU' in both llusc stones, the ililllreiuc i«. not so ),Teat, in
my opinion, as to induce IIS lo consider them as two disiinctsj)ecies; as ^^ill appear by
com|)arin^ the numbers 5.') and 3!>, which (.xpnss the (puintiii( s of siK x and alumine
in the Vesuvian garnets, with the iuiii)i)er>» liS and .>(), iknoting those of the siimu
two earths in the Bohemian garnets, anal)sed bv ihe beforc-cil<d chemist (}f lieriin
(Achard.)
To return for a moimntto the garnets of Lipari: these do not so tenaciously adhere
to their l.ase as we almost always find the felisj)aisaiul shoerls ; but, like oilier garnets,
arc implanted in il in such a manner that they ttu\\ be easily eletacheel without breaking,
lca\ iiig the exact impression of their ligiire in the ename 1. This enamel, which is com-
j)act, heavy, and of a gray cinereous c(jl(Mir, is Ibunel in elelache il pieees, both in the nxid
aiiel in die tufa; and is tlie first production wliieii presents itself, after leaving the city
lo proceed towartis the stoves.
C'oulinuing our journey still further along this road, we lliul in it, and likewise within
the tufa, ver\ curious mixtures of a white argillacioiis earth and black enamel ; both of
which are so mingled aiiel kneaded together, that we can seare'cl) find a «[uanlity of this
tarthul the size ol a pea, which does not contain several partie;les ol this enamel; and
very few indeed are the pieces of cnaine-l that conluiii none of this earth. Il h\^> an earthy
odour, and adheres to the tongue.
In die same situations where this peculiar wiixture is found, wc likewise meet uiih an
enamel ;;onlaining garnets, similar to those above menti(jiieel, but larger, antl more ap-
proaching to a globular figure. It is remarkable that this ename I, in some places,
* Voyage eluHb kb Alpes, toiii '.
\9H
.iP AI-LA N ..\\ I t. ! U.i V KI.S
iorms one s\ h(jlt u ilh some pkccs of lava of a honi-stonc basi;, whUli also contain!*
I'^aniLls.
I shall hriilly dislini^niish four species of lava, ca.li of a luini-stono base, which are
inoluiih, in cKtaelud pieces, oii the road t»)tln' stoves.
'I'he first h.is a liljrous Ihieliire, tlie colour ol iron, some appiaratiee f)f porosity,
■.iii'lieieiit h:ir(liuss to j^ive sparks \\ilh sterl, luul the power to move the maf^uetie,
litedleiit the distaiiee of a line and a (jiiarter. It emits an earthy odour, and eoiitahis
r« lts])ars.
The second is of a bla(-k-p:ray colour, and, though compact, rather soft. Almost one
lialt of it consists of rhon^hoidal ft Itspars.
'I'he tliird onlv dilU rs iiom die second by beint^ somewhat more compact, harder, and
i:()ntaiiiint,^ |( wcr feltsjjars.
'J'he fourth, which in solidity, \veiii;ht, and hardness, exceeds the three precedin.G^, has
a bhuk feirup,inous colour, ail earthy fracture, adheres slisjjhtly to the tongiie, and emits
(he usual argillaceous odour. It moves tlie mat^uetie needle at the distance of half
a line.
All these four kinds (jf lavas are changed, in the furnace, into ^itreous scori;c, but
uithout tb.c fusion tji" their feltspars,
Having mentioned these, it will be necessary to describe somewhat more at length,
rinoth.er sj^ecies «)f la\ a, which is enriched w ith a great number of extremely beautiful
volcanic chrysolites.
This lava has for its base a soft horn-stone ; it is of a diirk brown colour, and un-
equal in its fractures on account of the fissures which separate its parts. It is found in
detached pieces, like the four jireceding lavas, but these pieces are rare. !t gives but
few sparks with steel, emits a slight argillaceous odour, and acts on the magnetic nee-
dle at the distance of a full line. In consequence of its numerous fissures it is rather
light, and when struck with a hammer is somewhat sonorous. I omit to mention some
small scales of feltspar incorporated in it, and proceed to the examination of the
chr\ solites.
These, when situated m the external parts of the lava, which have suffered by the
infiuence of the atmosphere and elements, readily attract the eye by their lively colour,
which is between a green and a yellow, but in the recent fractures they shine with
much more lyrilliant colours. The most conspicuous are the golden-yellow, and the
line grass-green, with which sometimes is mixed a fire-red, tempered with a tinge of
purple. If these chrysolites are exposed to the immediate light of the sun, and viewed
under certain angles, their colours become much more lively and bright. Many of
them are amorphous, but some are quadrangular prisms. Their surface, in the frac-
tures, shines with a glassy brilliancy, and is sometimes smooth, and sometimes rough,
iccordingas the plates of which the chrysolites are composed may have been broken.
The small fragments of them are angular and semi-transparent. These chrysolites
give sparks with steel, and cut glass nearly like rock-crystal. 'Vho largest are not less
ihan three lines and a half in length, but the smallest can scarcely be discerned by the
naked eye. They are so iirmly infixed in the lava, that only fragments of them can be
detached.
The fire of the furnace, and that of die blow-pipe, not only will not fuse the minute
stones, but are unal)le to injure them either in their colours or texture. Oxygenous gas
i di. phlogisticated air) alone discolours them, and melts them into u globule of a white
colour, but without brillianrj'.
%'<
IN' i II K i"\i'0 Ulfll, IL
\'J\i
i'lioiigli iL was not Ivi.ouu till the prisciit tiiiK* that fjpari aHoakil volcanic chr\>')
litcs, th( V had Ihcii Ik lure roiiiul in volcani;;c(l countries, as in \ivarais and \'ehn'. Iiv
ISI. l-'uiijas, andon Mount Juna hy M. Doloniicu, But on eomivnint; their (;!n\s()liu>
withnnne, 1 find certain dilVerence.s and resemblances, uhiciiii will be pn'ijer kj uh
inirate.
Thechrvsoiltes observed and described by M. Faujus, when examined with the lens
are iound to be composed of an agi^regate ol' arenaceous strains, more or less line, and
mr)re or less adiicrent ; scabrous, irreg-ular, and sonKtimes 'brmiu!^^ crusts and small
sandy scales ; but for the most part having the appearance of angular fr ;inents united
by insertion into eaeh other.
The chnsolites of Linari have nothing of this nature in their structure. I brok(
several of them, and examined their fragments wiUi the n\icroscope ; but they never
appeared to nic granular, but always .^mooth and glassy. The most minute parts of these
chrysolites exhibited thcsam^ aspect they presented when whole.
I must not omit to mention another difterence of importance, which is, that the eliry
solites of Lipari arc only a few lines in length, whereas those descri!)ed by M. Faujas are
sometimes several poimds in weight.
They agree, however, with mine in Uieir infusibility in an extremely active lire ; for
those on which he made his experiments resisted the lire of common furnaces, however
violent and continued it might be, and could not be reduced to a state of fusion but
b) the aid of oxygenous gas.
The colours of both are sometimes the same. I say sometimes, for M. Faujas informs
us,^ that bci-eral of his chrysolites were only of one colour ; a green, or topaz-yellow.
The traits ol resemblance and difierence between the Liparese and Etnean chryso-
lites will be seen by con}i)aring the description 1 have given of the I'ormer with uha-
M. DolonuLU says of the latter, in the work I have frequently cited. He tells us, that
sometji'iheiiirysoliteshelound there arc amorphous, others cryslalliz l in tetragonal
or iKxagonal pi isms, sometimes wiUi an hexagonal pyramid ; that their fracture is
partly conelKMdal, and purily lamellar; that they are harder than quartz; tiiat they are
moic or less transparent; that their colour is a. greenish yellow, with various tinges,
and t'lai thiy arc; fusible in a strong fire. He does not give their size, but they canno!
be large; both because he calls them grains, and because those which I obser\ed in
some la\as oi Etna were very minute.
1 have i.;esignediy called the chrysolites of Lipari volcanic chrysolites, not merelv be
cause they are found within a lava, Ijut to preserve u distinction between them and a
gem ol that name ; since I know that some respectable authors are of opinion, that the:
volcanic stones which, from their greenish yellow colour, and other circumstances, re-
sendjle that gem, and therefore are called chrysolites by the volcanists, ditler from them
cniiidy in their comi)onent parts, and several of their external characters. To this opi-
iui,u 1 can make no objection, though in describing these stones I Imvc aelopted the name
by which the} are usually known. It must be observed, however, that some of their
properties shew they cannot be classed as shoerls, among which some naturalists generally
place the chrysolites of volcanos.
It remains likewise to speak of a stone which was the last of the products thatoflercd
themselves to my observation, as I proceeded along the declivity of the mountain leading
to the Stoves. ' ^^
The stone is a porphyry, the base of .which is the petrosilex, containing feltspars with
several laces, and brilliant in the fractures, and blackish irregular shoerls. The base
has the red colour of brick. It is found in detached masses, some of which wei" h several
\ 1
I K
Kl.
thdiiNimd piM.iiil-,, li IS coinpiK I, and mmIv i;i lln li-;;ttii-. s.
■.{\\ irrii.'-iilur ; iln.- lirmiw >l .m Ifii.sp ,ii nl .,t tlu t il.L'.t s ; ;i'
laiiU \\i;li^Uil. 'I'l r <(.l(nii <'l tl'.i l)j'f lias !';i\ri> llu kl;'
^^.■c ill cri;.!;!! orK.nt...l porpliv I'i; s.
I'jiil li.is this lu.r; !i\ry svi'iRad luvion, <>r i-. il in ll'^ natural state, .kI a! most ca!' im d
\<li(n II i^. t |ii'titl'''\ the voliano? 1 (aniu.l pnt^iid iM.sitivclv t(.<!,i.d. ; but I i:i<. iim
In ilu lailu'opini'.n'nv.iv than to tju' loruK r, sinrc an alK ratifiii is \ isibl- , moi in Uif
liitunal parts, uhich apiKarsto Ik' llic dllcioia trni' cMlcinatioii.
Ill till- rnnu'.rillK Mil>stan<i ol'tliisnxk IxifinHS soft, but tloc!. not lu-t ; tla llltspars
i( main Miu 11 ini;(.(l, l)Ul the sIkhtIs aiv vitrilicd.
'I'lir spai ioiis and (Uip cxfavalkins niadc in the tnfa by thr rain-uaUr, and ulucli
I -.teal li<i!n tJK- boiiom ol'tlu' r.innntain to tlic sMinmit, aii'ofrli d in- an f.pporimiity to
(.lis./, \ii- and ( .xamiuf the stonv subsUuu'ts 1 liave (kscril.id ; lijr it was onh in tluisf,
( >.ra\..tii i.stli It tlu\ vMr( sisii)lr: in i very otiu r part iif.tliiii!^^ appi an d but the- iiakul
.,;.,. iiii, , I (iii-.l ol tlu- tula. N'oni' ol' these sul).-taiiees air dispt^sul in eumnts ; tliiy
,i,/ ,il| (!. t, . Ill d ; and thus render it iiro!)aI>le that they iUi into th'.' tula after ha\iiin
Ih'. M tld'own I [• Into the air in voh'anic ejections.
\\ h. :i v.t !ia\e readied the summit of the niovmtain, nn ample plain opens, rnrm( d
of ihe same tula, but beeome earthy, in which corn is sown, and a f v viniyards are
1 l.i;.!td. II :e v. e find nuim roils pieees of shinin!^;j;lass, which is semi-tr.insi)arent, f)f a
b!..,ki>li colour, and some of the fmest and purest to be found in Lipari. As I wished
Nulisc (,\ir the . ri-inof this sulistance, I eausid the place where it is found to be dusj;
iii! .. 'I"he lid'aieous earth is there about tiiree or four feet deep. 'I'lie pumices lie
muiudi.'ib I'ldiiit. and anioni; tlu ni 'hisijlass ib found in consid* rabk (pianiiti^ s. It
•■v.s 1 ri I'.:bi\ btui tiMiiid up, and b-rouiiht to the lurnaee. by the plonjjh. orotiv r simi
■■::\- ii,-m,m> i!is ustd to pn.]a,ie theiai'ii lor M w inif the corn.
iu\ond this plain then is a t-entk (ksteiit of about .'.uo hundred kel iii knj'th, ai
ill. (.lid ol \>. hi; il aic iIh S;(Aeh.' >\ hatt, ver prepossession in their lavoiir [\u lr,.M .!ci
-.iu',\ lia\i <oiic.i\(d iVi m luarint^ so n.uch ol'them, he loses it the inoiiit lU Ik - (S
\l'.')\). TluN lorm a rroup ( f k)ur or live eaves, more like to the dens ol inai-. than
'.he I:: I itaticiV. ol itii n : and w hi( h t xl.ibit much less of art than the t dilicc s traiiu d b)
<!,i U;,\u. l',Mi\ i,.\i I -, an I pinn.t; at the bottom, through which die wariM-nd
la'n'id \. jv luseiitir, and auodu r in the top through which they passont. I ii,'>nd
e!.( ol thc^e, but was unable to ri main long in il, less Irom the heat, for tlu 'h' vu.n
nutu- s'.ood at on!\ •!:;; detunes, ihan fn^n I know not what of a snifoi atii, n:,inre
0, liiih the Lur hail in it. 'i'lu si sioxcs now retain little more than tlu ir r.ami, ..vd ar(
luarU desirtul. In lac!, dioin^ii diey si ill retiiad iheir virtue, and wen t. ilrac ions in
the cnn oi \ ;ai(ais disorders, how W( u;d il be p(jssible to make usi of ihi m, w Iiv n divy
.lu (Il siiuite of cMiA conviniiice lu ci ssar_\ to that purpose"?
W hui M. DoIouVk u \isitidthem, tiie whole .ground on which tlu y stand was pene-
uaud v.idi hot \aiKMiis, which, inukr the form ol a thick smoki . isMud from siiiall
:,peru:ri s lif about an iiu ii, ortwoiiuh.s, in diameter. When Iw.isilure, ciiciim-
■■i,,iici > wtie mu( h ( ban_L;ed, as usnall} happei.bin voleaiujs, where tlu pnsuice ol lire
m.iiii'.i ^'s ilsi if .so;nelimcs more .ind somciiiui s less. 'I'lu i\- was then onl} one aperiiire,
o; aboi:l ..n incli in diameur, from which from time to lime issiu d a thin sti\am ol
-n.' ke, '.villi a stron.si,- sulphureous sim 11. Iia\ ins^; enLii;j,ed this aju nun , 1 Imind il
sir,!-, .uiaivd by a small (pianiity ol' soil suipiuires of iron (puius) j^jeiu i\a< d In ihe union
(.1 ii..n andsiilphur. 'I'he abijaic '! low.uni, who, i \\.\\k eiied in ano;h.r jaace, like-
wi-i, .if., sis. that al certain times si \ei\.l stre.-.ms .i smoke asceiukd round the stows;
a.i) I :-.h.ill add, vhat i^c'jldes the siroiii; siuell of sulphur, which 1 peircei\ed on ajiproacli
t ,
/ ■,' c
in;; liir j.l;ir. , the (;to-iiu1 !,-f'c.,nnc' li.)i, :i'ul ih: frtor iiriw.S' fl, 0:1 (h-.-.^qi.^r to ,'.!>').it th '
drpiliofa fool : liom whi'Ii it miiy he on-liulcd, that timl. r tli' stovt's riiirl ihr noiuu!
■idj.K' nt, sonic nniains ol' snlpluiivoiis r')!ifl;.|rr.ui„!i siill coiuiMuc.' Tli-- Movl-s iuk^
tlif warm Iwtlis, oi" uhicii ur sli„:i sj,^,,!, I., lov. . aiv tlu- oiilv plu-'.s in th'- wholv i,s!>inr^
\vh('.-c :u)y si^'iis hit to he louiul ol' :is yrl niu';ai:if,nii ;Ii( d vf)l'c;anos.
M. D()l()niiLU,;ilurli;iviiip: (Uscrihfcl tii'.- stoves ol' Lipnri, jTO'Ccds to sped, of th;'
alterations caused by tito siilpliunous acid vap )iiin on the l.ivas of tin-, place, ivniarkins;
tlut all of tluni.Ijrsidrsliaviiifr lx-e;>me sofu r and !i,<;hicr, have lost tlieir primitive co
l.nir and assnmed a uhite tin-e, mixed with v ( How, red, vioiet, and other colours,
uhicIi theoNvdes ol iron usually produce. IK: observes likcwi.e, that they are coated
uith a thick crust of sulphates of lime (selenite or gvpsum) wliich sulphates penetrate
hkeuise to the mternal parts, and that some lavas are covered with that kind of iron ore
\vhi(h IS called slimy (fanp:osa)or botr ore. He tlunvd-v int;eni(nislv explains in what
manner, by means of a combination of the sulphuric acid u id\ different eartlis, the lavas
have become lis^hterand variously coloured.
As 1 visited the stoves three several times, and examined ^vitIl great attention the
lavas that had sulk-red alteration by the action of the sulphure.n.s acid, I am enabled to
add, to the observations already given, some others winch 1 believe t.^ be new, and
winch I shall here briefly state.
It was an object equally important and curious to asceitain to what kinds of lavas still
reimnnmg m the state m which they were left In the lire, those belonjr uhich we now
see decomjjosed by acids; and as the obser\ations I had made at Solfataradi Pozzuolo
nnd other places, had taught me that the decomposition diminishes, the deeper it enters
into the substance, I conceived that the most |)ropi r means to o!)tain this knowled<>-e
uould be, to break fragments of the lava, and examine the internal parts, to lind hem
ar the decomposition had penetrated. The greater part of the decomposed lavas of
he INIonte della Stufe are externally of a reddish white ; and some ^.v of a blackish co-
lour. 1 first examined the latter; and presentin- their suiface' to the full light of the
sun I discovered something of a brilliant appearance which invited me to examine it
w.tli the lens. It proved an aggregate of inni;m:rable globules of luenwiitic iron, which
ixautilully cover the surface of these lavas.
1 detached a considerable mimber of these globules, and found that on trituration
the) assumed a red colour, MJiieh is the i)ropertv of the dark luematites. Tins was
therelore a pure martial oxyde, de posited here and formeel into globules ; anel under
that .iggre gate lay another oxyde of red, but eiirthv iron. 'J^he lava still deeper ^\as of a
white eol()ur, intersected with parallel streaks of a reddish black, or lightlv sh.ided with
a yellowish tinge. '
The se lavas are soft, light and compact: tlicy adiierc to tlic ton<.iie, Invc the eon
bistence of clay, but do not emit its odour. They seem to l)e simple lavas, no extraneous
LH.dies appearing m them. It is observable that cn erv hacture is cc^nchoidal ; anel that
^vlK•n struck they cause a sound similar to that of so'me kinds of pc trosilex, w hich has
inehued me to suspect they belong to that sjKcies oi stone : a suspicion which is con-
nrmed by examming deeper within the fractures ; since at the deptli of two feet, or
upal altcral.OMs ot volcanic subs.ancc. a.v to b. asc,il)ed, but to sulpburcous acid .kI.uU on. Tl c
. 1" t (1 ,0 tlH^sume c.usy, thr3 vx.sicucc of nhici, is s-UlkirnUy proved bv the r(n.,.ias orMilohu-
.cous hunes,a.d the quanuty of sulpluUes oflinu, which I .hall p,iauly have occasion to d^lcl.;;
VOL. V. ^ j^
20ii
H'ALI.ANi',.\N l'3 TIlAVLl.;,
thereabouts, r\ j^rav colour takes place of the v.hite, ami the other external appearance^
diminish; the lavas Ixirin to assume a siliecousasinet, and ^ivea leu sparks ui.. steel.
Still deeper we p«.r{,eiv'e witlKntt the least doul)t that tin se lavas have a pttrosilie'.ous base,
and contain a lew shoerls, which do not appear in the deeomi)osed parts, prol)abl} be-
cause du} are themselves deeoniposid.
These observations, which were made on some lavas ol'a black colom-on the Muiaee,
arc likewise true of several oUiers, which extcrn;.ll\ are of a reddish white. The ap-
ncaranets in them are essential! v the same. The r.d colour m the mtcrnal parts msen-
siblv vanishes; the ^rav bv diMircs sneiveds the while, which, still dci per, acquires a
lust're, the lava at the sa'me'time In comin:' harder, and at len!,'ih distinctly exhibiting all
the characters oldie petrosilex.
One ol these lavas, streaked wiih white and a clear red like that of the peach-flower,
is spotted on the surface with p</ints .ilmost pulverulent. These are decomposed relt-
spars, though tluv still retain aiesulue of crystallization. This lava has been more
chaiiKtd bv'the aeidsthan the others, being softer, and even jiulvdable; though at the
depth of two feet it is hard, neavy, of a black-may colour, evidently has a petrosiliceous
base, and contains fdispais which are perfectly entire.
In describing the variouslv decomposed lavas ol Solfatara, we have seen diat leltspars
are a kind of stones which strongly resist the action of acids. It fre(iuently happens that
their base is completely decomposed, while they are scarcely in the least changed. As
therefore in the pieseiU lava the leltspars are tlei'omposed cfpially with their base, we
must be convinced dial the strength of these acids must have been very great. In gene-
ral these hn as at their hurface are soft, like dough, and almost saponaceous ; characters
that usuallv accomi)anv these decompositions, .....
>\'e must not omit to notice a lava of the breccia kind, the base of which is likewise
petrosilex, and in which the action of the acids has extended onh" to the depth of a lew
inches. This base, e \ ui near the surface, has not entirely lost its natural colour, resem-
bling that of iron, and in it are incorporated irregular small masses of whitened and pul-
verulent lava. These , therefore, have } ielded more to the decomposition than the base
tnat contains them. At a greater depth we fmd them unaltered ; and they are then only
fragments of lava of a horn-stone base.
Thoughmany ofthelavasof the stoves of Lipari have suffered by the sulphureous-
acid vapours, there are some that are entirely unchanged. I shall only describe one,
which is so well preserved that it appears to have been produced but yesterday by the
\ olcanic gulf. If we scale the surface of it, w iiere it projects in large masses from the
earth, it appears of a dark iron c(jlour, has an extremely compact grain, and a conchoidal
fracture. The scales at the edges are sharp and cutting, and give very lively sparks
with steel. It is one of the heaviest and hardest among tiic lavas, and puts the magnetic
needle in motion at two lines distance. It has for its base die petrosilex, containing
verv brilliant feltspar needles.
'i'his lava, therelore, lias not been in the least affected by these acids, not probably
because it was able to n sist their strength, but because it was not exposed to their actKJii.
The places under which the contlagrations of a volcano burn, have numerous apertures
and lissures through which issue sulphureous fumes ; and when lavas are situated around
cr w ithin these, tliev w ill be more or less affected by them. But in the same tracts of
^round there are more places than one impenetrable to these fumes, andthcre% in con-
se(iuence, the lavas suffer no other alterations tlian those produced by time. These m-
terrupted exhalati(jns o." sulphureous vapours I have observed at Vesuvius, Ltna, and
Siromboli, and have noticed them before in my accounts of these volcunos. It is only
IN DIE TWO SICILIES.
JO.i
to he remarked tliat, at the stoves of Lipari, ihc: riuantitv of dccompos.cl luvas beiiio
very great, and extcndin- Ibr the most part to a K'vat dq.tl), ti.e siilplma oir.-acid va
pours must have there issued in extraordinary al)undanec, and at the same timr lum
been oi long duration. The intensity of them, and tlu ir eons, (inentlv T'cater . I]ieae\
might indeed have supplied the plarc of long continuance ; for I ha\e'oI)served (h'li
w.ieii tlie lava ol \ esuviusnomd before my eyes, and several of its lateral l)ranc!K-i had
ceased to move, t\.o of these, which had been penetrated bv a diiek cloud of the fumcv
usual there, were already half d( composed, though thev were evidentiv parts of ijiat
current which but a few months b( fore had been disgorged by the side of the mountain.
Lastly, according to the difierent qualities of the lavas, and as they mav be composed
niore or less of calcareous, argiJLiceous, or martial principles, all comb'inabic with sul-
pnureous acids, a greater or less decomposition will be produced.
1 he diHe^^rent degrees of decomposition in lavas render them sometimes more, anrl
sometmies less susceptible of fusion in the furnace. The parts not decomposed will
use. A beginning decomposition renders them stubborn, and wlien it is complete.
hey entirely resist the hre. The cause of these diftlTcnces appears to me sulHeicutlv
evident. 1 he more earths are pure the more they resist fusion. All those hitherto
known are infusible, except in very violent fires. Their mixture facilitates their fusion,
as they thus become a reciprocal flux ; and we know that fusion readilv follows, when
silex alumme, and lime are mixed in the proportion of 3, 1 and 1. There was no lava
on which I made experiments, in u hich I did not find these three kinds of earth ; and
though they might not be combined exactly in this proportion, their combination was
yet such as to render almost every lava fusible in the furnace. The lime u hieh, in the
ary way, acts as a flux to the silex, is in a great degree diminished in the decomposition
01 lavas, forming sulphate of lime by its intimate union uith die sulphuric acid; and
hence we have one nnpediment to the fusibility of these lavas. The diminution of the
alumine, arising from its combination with the above mentioned acid forming sulphate
of alumine, which is afterwards detached and carried awav by the rains,^^ will likewise
be another obstacle ; to which we may add a third, u hieh is the loss of the iron, like-
wise an aid to fusion. '
.l.'lo nf '"'/'''';'■"' '^'if ^ /"*' ^''^ "^«^t P'^i-t accompany lavas, present a pleasing specta.
m^u.nH '"'■'''''• . ^'^^^" '^"'""'•^ ^"-e infinitely varied. ThoSe which ire most promi-
nent to the eye, are the rose colour, violet, and orange, and thev are the more conspicu-
ous because they are generally placed on a white grSund. ' '
T .n,?''' trr'^ .^'"''■'' '''"^^ ?*' ^"'P'^'^^^ «^" linic,^ndependent of several varieties v\ hicli
Ln? ;.rmvl'; '\'''^°'^^'°''ll''"'^"'P''^'^' ^'""''^^'^ to each other, closely united, bril-
mnn' TT r T ""'f^;""- ^ '''^' '"'■'•'' '^''''' "^' '^^'^'^ ol'^liffc'xnt thicknis, sometimes
Xre '' ' '"''^'' ''''' '■'''^^' ^^^^'^^^^^'^ ^--^"^ tJ^^' I'lvas to which they
l..t,'!?^.f T'^^?'"'"''"^ is filamentous, having either parallel or stellated filaments, in which
Utter ease the hlamcnts form a kind of pyramids, which have their apices in one com
^k S'';"* ',,'"" t""' ''' ^'^'-'.^^••^"•"i'^'-'-'n^t-. Wc find some very large pieces of
this kind, formed by the aggregation of these pvramids. " '
Ihe third specie^s IS composed of diinand shining plates, somewhat elastic, transpa-
icnt, very soft, and forms the indeterminute crystallization of sulphate of lime called
tenll Jd^CsZV?Zf 'I!r ''^."'^^'' '' "''>■ ^? P'^P"' '° ''^'''' ^^ '^^^t I have saiel in Chup. II, thut the ^.v..
S Im n^ cxSr" In '''''• "'?•">' °^»>^''-.^^'-l'>' >"l° u'-giilaceous earth, i„ the de'compoMiie... o !:,.
Ibov'r "''^*'""' '"'^''' "' ^'"'' ^^^^' ^'»'^^ *="'tl' likewise is diminislieri, from Uie dusts :,ll.■;,^.■.^
o o 2
JO'i
.l'.\ lLANUANI's TRAVELJ
specular htohc , Inii this spcr.ii-s is rare, aiitl its crystals arc always very small. In those
cases the (ktcrniii'.atc and primitive: cryslaUi/.atiou of this neutral earthy salt is ahvayti.
u'liMting.
It is there fore evident that tiiis variety of rolours, such as yellow, red, or violet, ex-
hibited by the decomposed l.ivas, is a comscij nee of die iron pre-existing in them ;
which beinj^, if n'>t deoniposed, at least greatly altered, by the sulphureous acids, is
variously modified, and assumes this diversity of hues. Tiic same cause operates in like
manner on the sul|>luites of lime, Ibrmed by the combination of the sulphuric acid witli
the lime, which is laid open l)y die destruction of the adhesion of the constituent princi-
ples of the lavas, and variously coloured by the oxydated metal. The white colour of
the decomposed lavas then, it is evident, is produced by the loss of their iron ; which
agrees perfectly widi ex[)erienee, sinee, where tlie decomposition has taken place, the
lavas are incapable of moving- the magnetic needle, whereas they constantly produce
motion in it, some at the distance of two lines, and some at more or less, in the parts not
dei:omposed.
I shall conclude my observations on the productions of the stoves of Lipari, with some,
interesiini^ remarks relativu- to several ditterent species of zeolites, which I discovered ill
their vicinity. I shall describe them separately with their matrices.
First species. The matrix containin}^this zeolite is a lava of a horn-stone base, of a.
dark-brown colour, s^ranular in the fractures, and which scarcely gives sparks with steel.
It shews no indication of having suffered by die sulphureous acids. It is full of small
long ca\ ities, all in one direction, and w hich probably were produceel when the lava was
in ii fluid state. It is in these cavities that this species of zeolite is found. At first view
it appears rather to be a stalactieal chal'xdony, having ihc form of a cluster of grapes.
It is of a white pearl colour, inclining to a light blue, and gives some sparks with steel.
It has a siliceous fracture, and a degree of transparency. Three i)roperties, however,
especially characterize it : first, that it forms a jelly with mineral acids ; secondly, that
it flashes or blazes at the moment of fusion ; and, thirdly, that it bubbles, and as it were
boils, w hen in fusion : and though neither of diesc characters exclusively appertain to
the zeolite, all the three together sufficiently fix the nature of this stone, which must be
referred to the class of amorphous zeolites. The clustering grains may be extracted
• ntire, as they attacli to the lava but in a few points. The largest extend to five lines in
length. In two or three in breadth. The figure which I have called clustering, is the
most usual in this species of zeolite ; though some are only oblong globules, of the same
r.izc \\ ith tiiat of the small cavities v\ iiich contain them. They are, however, by no means
tbund in e\ery cavity ; for out of a hundred of iluse cavities, ninety contained no zeo-
lite. This species is contaminated witli a pulverulent, orange-coloured oxyde of iron.
The blow-pipe with ditUculiy melted it; and several seconds were recpiired for its
complete liquefaction, even with the aid of oxygenous gas. It then changed into a
snowy. white enamel, full of bubbles. It has a lucid brightness when it begins to melt,
nnd boils and bubbles up when in actual fusion.
Second species. This is found in some piccxs of the former lava, but its characters
arc dilllrcnt from those of the preceding species. It coats over many of die cavities
before mentioned v.itii a thin crust, thus forming geodcs, which, however, are not crys-
tallized inte rnally. This zeolite, which inclines to a white colour, is more transparent
than the other, and, from its hardness, cuts glass almost like rock crystal. The mineral
acids have no efleet upon it, not even when jMilverised, though they convert the former
species into a kind of jelly. When melted with the aid of oxygenous gas, it emits athiji
brilliant bL.zc. and is changed, with ebullition, into a vitreous and white globule.
%
IN Tilt lUO .'JCIMS:
203
llisnot uniibualto tind uilhin tlusc zcolUic rvocU-s, plarrs (>f vtry tnuispiircnt siii.
phatc of lime. A hundrccl p;rains oi ihis puhxiistd were \m\ into six liuiulrcd oi" distilled
boilin}^ water. A solution was ()I)tained, .md the oxalic acid |)rv cipitaied tlie li.nc.
Third species. This consists of ovoid globules, externally dirt}-, Croiu an earthy cf)a-
inf^, but which internally arc extremely white. In the fractures we perceive that the ;•
consist of a number of opaque groups of fd)res, striated, silky, and siiining, which diverg-
from die centre to the circumference of the gloi)ules, and thus form so many inverted
cones. These globules, some of which are more than four lines in diameter, perfectly
fill the cavities of an argillaceous, light, extremely friable lava of a deep gray colour.
Kvery cavit} , liowcver, does not contain a zeolite of this conformation : in some we lind
zeolitic stones wiUi several facets, but so confused that the precise configuration of tin-
crystals caiuiot be distinguished. On attentive examination, they evidently appear to
be lormed of the same zeolitic substance, which, when it occupied the whole space ot
the cavity, took the confornuition of those fd)rous groups that have externally a globos(>
figure ; but when a part of this space remained empty, it crystallized more or less.
These zeolitic stones always have in die middle a small empty space, \\hcre they an-
crystallized, forming a number of very minute geodes.
The blow-pipe presently melts this third species, and widi ebullition; a phosphores-
cence precedes the fusion, and the pearly globide which is the result, is a semi-transpa-
rent glass, abounding in bubbles. If this globule be broken, which requires rather a
smart blow, the sharp angles of the fragments will cut deep into glass.
This zeolite, soon after it has been put into acids, attaches to the sides of the contain-
ing vessel in the form of a crust, which crust presently resolves itself into u transparent
tremulous jelly, similar to that of hartshorn.
Fourth species. The lava which contains this zeolite is of a horn-stone base, and
forms two species, at least two varieties ; the one of which is glanular, rough to the
touch, and extremely friable; the other has a kind of softness, a fuie grain, and greater
solidity. In colour, however, which is a gray, and in their argillaceous odoiu", both
these varieties agree. This lava contains a multitude of zeolitic globules, from half a
line to an inch in diameter. On breaking them, a vacuity is found within them, thus
forming geodes of a cr} stallization more or less perfect. Where\er the zeolitic sub-
stance has been too confined in the cavity of the lava, the crystallization is extremely
imperfect, in consequence of the prisms being half-formed and confusedly intermingled;
but where that substance had a larger space to develope itself in, the prisms are no longer
so indistinct ; many of them at least are found to incline to a tetrahedral figure ; and
where the cavities of the lava have aflbrdeda still greater space to the zeolitic matter, it
has crystallized in tetrahedral prisms, of a distinct conformation. livery prism has
therefore four faces distinctly separated. In some few jjlacts these prisms are terminated
b)- a tetrahedral pyramid. Many of them are of a milky whiteness, and Uiese are semi-
transparent; but odiershave a transparency almost equal to that of qnartzose crystals.
A ijinj'le Ci'.vity sometimes contains several scores of such prisms, while another shall
contain but very few.
The biuw. pipe easily melts these geodes with the usual phenomena of ebullition and
phosphorescence, and the glass which is the result of the fusion is similar to that of the
zeolite of the third spicies. A similar jelly is likewise produced from it, and with equal
promptness, in acids, except that it has a less degree of viscosity.
Fifth and sixth species. These two species of zeolites are contained within an argil
laceous lava, of a dark-gray colour, light, and of an earthy consistenee : ihty bo'h merit
to be distinctly described. The first species consists of a great number of small sphere^-.
■^I»(l
1. 1' A 1, L A K -. A N I
r I( A V L I, a
■;\ liilc as siv)\v, ia'!i orctipyinti; a ( avity in the lava, ami van in^i; in si/.c, tiio sniallosi fjt-
iiif^ scarcely oiu -third fd'aliiii' in dianicttr, and tli'.' laifjjcst niori' than tliixi lints. The
Mnfacc of tlicsi' siuull sphias is not mikkjMi, hut sonuwliat rough, IVoni an inlinit}- of
|H)iiUs\\hi( h, \i( will through the Itns, arc disrovrrcd to be so many minute tctrahidral
prions, diiiincil} di lined. On hreakinj; the s|)li< res we per(ei\e that the prisms arc
eonlinucd within them, and, heeomin;^ tliiiiiur, proc:eed to the ecntre; or, to speak
more propuly, we hud that the spheres are only the result ola uumhirol prisms joined
to;;i iher kiii;ilu\ i.ie. The portion ol' the prisms that is immersed within die spheres
is ojiatiue ; Imtthat part which prrtjects r)ut has a dt!j;ree of transparency. It is to l)(;
olisuAid, thai i!iuuj;li the (greater number of these minute spheres arc perfectly solid,
many (jl'them have around \ acuity at the centre, sometimes e.vtendin^ to one-lenth part
of the whole sj^hire.
This iuolite is the softest of all the species hitherto enumerated, and may be scraped
or eul with a knile.
The sixth and last species is one of the most beautiful ;:eolitcs hitlurto discovered by
naturalists. It cfnisists of miiuite crystals, extremely clear and iirii^ht, which, having
facets in ivery pait, \ividly reflect the li,!i;ht, and sparkle like so many diamonds. These
are \eiy numerous in the cavities of the same lava; but are unetpially ilistrilnUed, as
Mime cavities contain but one of these crystals, while others have two, and others three,
lhoui;h tilt: latitr are rare. The largest do not exceed a line, and the most m'tuite are
scarcely a (puirter of a line. While they remain in the lava, it is not easy to cxaminti
them as might be wished ; but many of them may be extracted without injury, and
viewed in every part with the lens at leisure. We then perceive that these zeolites^
uhere they rest on the lava, are Hat ; but in their upper part incline to a globose figure ;
andUiai there their cr\ stallifiation is aj)parent : that the isolated crystals, I mean those
which inihtir formation grew without attaching to the other crystals, have eighteen fa-
cets, i'or the most part pentagonal, or tetragonal, but never triangular : that these isolated
crystals are extremely rare; the greater number being aggregated, that is, confusedly
heaped upon each other in their lormation : that, lastly, though many of them may com-
pare in clearness with the purest rock cry stal, they arc yet inferior in hardness, as they
\\ iih diliieult) cut glass.
J at fnsi suspecutl tiuit Uiesc zeolites were a simple modification of the fifth species,
which, w Ik re vent had a free space, hud formed itself into these brilliant crystals, either
isolated or aggi\ gate. But this conjecture was not confirmed by observation. It frc-
jjuenily happens that the white minute spheres which form the fifth species, occupy only
one hall, or even kss, of the containing cavities, without ever taking the form of the sixth
species ; but it is ctjustantly to be observed that the tetrahedral prisms project farther
beyond the convexity of the split res, and have a greater transparency. They must
therefore be considt red as tw o distinct sjiecies.
This difltrt nee is still uKjre eoniirmed by the action of fire and acids. The latter do
not act, at least sensibly, on the sixth species, diough they reduce the fifth to gelatinous
flakes or tulis. 'I'he lire ol the furnace, in half an hour, converts the cr}stals of the sixth
-.j)eeies into globules of extremely transparent glass ; whereas it only softens in that time
die minute spiieres ol the filth, which retjuire a fire of much longer continuance for their
complete litiuefaction ; and the globule which then results isanoparpie glass, of the co-
lour of milk. li(Mh, howe\er, have the jjroperty which is usually common to zeolites ;
I mean that of phosphonscence at Uie moment of fusion, as may be seen by emi)l(jying
(oxygenous gas.
%
I.N J H 1, iwfj ,l,:ii[Li.,
i'O;
Alfrrlnviii^miidf llicsv. (.xpeiiiM' iit:i on tiu' ;:i")lit('s ol" l^ipui, I w.is imtiioiil fn^vn-
mim-oncdl' iIkjsc of Icilaiul, uliid) li,.vc' the cliirKtcr (■{' briiijr ih,. most tx< (Hint lor
lormiii^- a }n I iiiiioiis l)0(l\ . I CArtainlv obfaint rl I' <iiti it \try ivadiix an fxtrmu Iv luau
tiliil ji liy ; liiit not ill tlu least sii|.cii(.r to tl\;.t |)I(k1iici(I l»y'tlic third and fourth sprci. >.
'i"iii-i loitipn :'.i(iiii(' is mtv while, and forms a k'<'1"1' "' ^^i";'" 'onical litnidks, ehsth
Con>j,liiiinati(l, and int( rsictinfr vurU oilier in various diri(tioiis; terniinalinj,'-, at tijeiV
di\^^^;in^ e\ireniiii>s, in a nmliitnili' of irn i-niar c\ lindrieal needl( s. In the fiinuce i;
hi .onus inll. lied and consitK ral)l\ li;,liur. I)nl does not fuse. With o\y<];ciioiis j^'as, a
li: 1(1, niilk-whiu cni.iiiil, fnll of li;il)M( s, is prodiieid.
If we eonipare these <)I)s(rvaiiors uitli the (leseri])tions of other naturalists, wc shall
find that the -/a oliti s of Lip.iri li.i\ ■ ;i };reat resemblance to those of otiKr (Hjunin ^ ; and
it may be obsu'vul dial ilie fn- 1 spec ies is very similar to that of ilie island oi Ferro,
which Horn has deseribi d in his Litliopin lacium, and which he has compared to the bta-
lactical ehalci iloii}'.
'J'he second s|)ecies, from its hardness, resembles some crystaHi;;ed reolites of the isles
of die C\cl(.ps of l-'.tna, which, as i\I. Dolomieu has ol)served, and as 1 have since found
b) experiment, are little infericjriii that (jualiiy to rock crystal.
The three other species do not essentially dilfer from several described bv Wallcrins,
Born, BiTfrman, Fanjas, and others, and 'which an; found in the island nt \\\rn, the
Vivarais, and other volcanijicd countries. Hut the sixtli sjjecies appears to me new ; ai
least I have iound no writer who mentions a ijcoliie, c(instanily crystallized with ei.Ljhtceii
facets, as often as its crystals are detached ; nor do I know that any zeolite has hitherto
been discovered which is ((pialh clear and brilliant.
It apptars that the true fij^ure'of the zeolite is a cube ; at least, that it idwavs efllcts
that form where its crystallizations meet with no obstacles. Accordinjr to circumstances
it IS more or less modified; and the tctrahedral prisms of tiie fourth or fifth species are
probably one of these modiiications. The first and second are amorj)hous ; but in the
third wt; discern a beginning crystallization. One of these modifications iiuiv be seen
in the sixth species ; and we know that there are zeolites of other conntrurallons, as
some with twenty -lour facets, and others with thirty.
Some naturalists have affirmed that the whitest and purest zeolite of Ferro is the only
one from which a transparent and white glass can be obtained. I find, however, the
glass ()f the sixth species preferable to it ; for it has an acpieous colour, and its tran'spa-
rency is almost ecpial to that of (juartzosc crystal. I have found no zeolitic cr\ stals, but
those of the isles of the Cyclops, which have furnished a glass equal to this.
No mineralogist is igiujrant that Cronstcdt was the first who distinguished this stone
from the (:arbonates of lime with which it was confounded, and made iis ac(iUainted with
several of its qualities. He observed that mineral acids caused no ertervescence with it,
but slowly dissolved it into a gelatinous body : and this slow dissolution, and conversion
of the zeolite into jelly, was afterwards confirmed by olhcrs ; though experiments made
on newly discovered species of this stone have shewn that more tlian one are not in any
manner afi'ectcd by acids, even when highl}' concentrated. From among six species of
the zeolites of Lipari, we have seen that the third and fourth presently i'orm with acids
a transparent gelatinous body; which is less completely characterise'd in the first and
filth ; and not produced at all in the second and sixth species.
M Pellelier has analysed the zeolite of Ferro, and Ibui.d that it is composed of 20
parts ol alumine, 8 of lime, 50 of silex, and 22 of phlegm (or impure water.) Other
analyses have been made of other zeolites, by the chemists Bergmann, Meyer, and Kla-
prolh. Tho minute size of mine, and still more the small quantity 1 obtained of them,
40U
iPALI. ANZANl I. I n AVI i,n
|ircvi'nf(<l lUf frnm ni.ikinpf :i simibr nuilysis of iluni with the rc'inlsiK irrnrnry. I
u\i!s, houcNci, iil/K' lo ascc'il;iin thai the scftinil and si.\th spuii-s coiiiiiiiud sih x in a
Urciitir proju»rti<»iuhan it Uiis foimd in th( zioliir analysed hy IVllrtiir ; which perhaps
wah'.hc iMiisi" that ihcsi'tuo spi-cics do not liurnj a j^elatinons scchniint ; the superabun-
danci orfiu.irt.'.<(Si earth not pirniittin}; tin acids to ixtrati the lini< and uhuuinc, and
ihiis diNs<'l\f tJK nnioM ol' llu' (onstitmnt principks ol the /.cohic.
'I'lii' ^ilatinoii*, jliv.ohiiion ol" tljc ziolite is niitlur a qnality lound in every spceics,
I'cr is it lueiillar toil, sine c exptritme has sliiun that it is roninion to othir stones, ihc
(•(iUsiitntnl [.rim ipKs ol' which art the sanx nlth those of the zeolite, and conihnied iiia
ei rtain propoiiion. This iiKi\tity ol' prineiples, which in some species of st<»nes attords,
Ijy means (jjthe action olaeids, iIk same };i latinous product, induced me to make an ex.
pi I inu lit, of which 1 shall here j^ive the residt.
'i'lie (tilonrkss garnets of N'esiuius eontam, according to Herpjtnan, 55 parts ol
silex, 3'.) ol" ahimine, and 0 of liiite. As llu nibre ! f id collected a eonsirlcralile quan-
tity (if tilt se at \ esiivius, Ideteiniined to makt: experiments on them with acids, in the
sanie niaiiiii r 1 had dtiiic on tiu ;'a elites. But in the three first varieties which I possess,
tlxiiij'ji I iiail lirst rulueed tluni to powder, no gelatinous substance ivas |)roduced.
\\ itlitlu fourth I succeeded ; thouj^di I did not make the experiment on the same fi^ar-
ntts, lor the attt nipt woidd have Ik en in vain, hut on others of the same species, which
1 luive lu't nxntiontd, anil which hati heen ^(leatly softened hy the sulphureous acids,
;lifiii''h tlity ritainetl their Itmrand-twenty facets. These the nitric acid, afkrthirteen
hours, rtdui td to a jelly, thougli not one so heautifid as that obtained fronj the zeolites.
We ma} the rt fore eonelude, that this aptitude to dissolution was produced in the garnets
!>y tlu alterations the\ had sullered ; in ct)nsef|uence of which the nitric acid, pei\etrating
tluir inttrnal j;aiis, had acted on them as it acts in many ziolites.
It hasbn^n l)elie>ed that zeolites appertain exclusively to volcanized countries, since
;hty .ire most Irtciuetuly ftunid there ; and my observations may appear to conlirmthis
opiiiitJii. It howe\er admits of nt) doubt that they are likewise often found in ct)untrics
ih.it exhibit no signs ol volcanization ; this having been incontestibly proved by Croii-
>.tidt, Linna'us, Btri^mann and others.
It appears equally certain that the zeolites of volcanos do not derive their origin from
fire, but are adventitious to those places ; nor that the) were pre-existent to die volcanic
eruptions, and taken uj) by, and incorporated with, the currents of lava, as a cele-
brateil voleanist has supposed, 'i'hey were no doubt, generatt d alter the extinction of
the eonliagraiions ; w hen their constituent parts bt iiig dt |'ositi d ijy water in the ca^ itics
of the lava, and there eombiniiig by allinity, lormed these siov.y substances, according to
circumstances, sometimes anujrphous, and sonulimes crysialhzed ; in the same manner
that wi have supposed, and indeeed proved, the beautiful quartzose stones to be formed
in certain la\as on the shores of Lipari, not far i om Vulcano. The zeolites now de-
scribed, likewise, afford a proof in ia\our t)!'tl<it. opinion, those especially the prismatic
crystals of which have for their base the sides t)f eaxities in the lavas.
1 shall eoncliide these' obsi rvations rei;u\e to zeolites, with the following inquiry
concerningaii hvpoilicsis aclopud by M. Dolonuoi.
Th;tnaturuiist was ol (opinion thar the zeolite st)f volcanized countries are oidy found
in ihosi situations which have been covered b\ the waters of the sea; and the argu-
ments he .idducts to prove- this, aj pear to me sulheientiy convincing with respect to the
multilorni zeolites observed by him. lit t what shall \vc say of those wc have now de-
scribed '! 1 certainly did not neglect to make the most accurate researches on the spot,
it has bi CM already said that t!usc stones are foimd in the A'icinity of the Stoves. The
i.\ I jir. I V " M' II li. ..
jov
lir^t species is nui \\ith aliotit ino luiiuln <l I' 1 1 I" Fore wc un'wr nl tticrn, on tho roirf
Irom tlu" cit} ol' liip.iri; tlif oiIh r^ me s<;iM.i((l ;it ;i |,'n .itt r di .tinci', in the >lt« p
•,i(Ic of the nioiintaiii lowards tlu soinli, Oiu cmain pio'il' iliut fli' w plmts li;i(l an
cicntly Ijccn waslud by the si-a, Wfxild Ik- iIk' liiKlin;); ol'tl.i' uniaiiii or iniprissions rw
sea animals. 'I'Inis ilu- aI)()\c-nuntioii( d I'ldidi iMiiinilist n nmrkN that, at I'.tna, t!v
lavas of the i>Us ol' thi Cj clops, and thosi of dn ni'iuiitains ol I'n .',/.a, uhit h ahnnnd
in ZLf)litcs, have etrtainly I)erM comtkI In the waltrs of the sia, since at the hii^'Iit ol
inf)re than two huiKhcd perelx s al)o\e these vjtolitie laxa-, innneiist (piantitit s ol'seti.
shellsare lonnd. Thesanif may, in liU niaiiiu r. ')i oljsi r\(d ol'du \'iiintin< \o|eanir
monntains which allurd iKaniilid v.eoiius, and ;'lsi> (dpious stores, nf niaiiiie icmains.
It is, houtver, certain that neillur I^ipaii, nor any (jfthe I'olian isles, prcsint uh uidi
any vestifj;cs of sea animals or plants. 1 do not mem to s.i) that this is upliysical dc-
monstration that these places ha\e never been coven (I by tin m a, since it is |)ossi!)lc that
the marine hodiis its waters had h It, mav haNe Inen afterw.iids (Usiroved \)\ causes
which arc not wantin;;; in conntries that, at varions epochs, have sulVered the action ol
fire; I shall only observe that we are ihnsdiprivid ofoni'ofthe nw.st con\ inciiii; proofs
t)f this supposed inundiitioM ; and I know not on what oilur we can rely, with respccl
to a country entirely volcanic.
That zeolites derive their orij^in from water and not from lire, is proved by the water
of er}stallization which is more or less abundant in them, and the lunnbers of du-ni
fovnul in some provinces of Sweden, which have lu ver been sulijictrd lo the action oi
fire. That this water has sometintes been that of the sea, the above-cited observation ol
M. Dolomicu will not peimit iis to doubt ; but it has been proved that there are likewise
instances of their havinj^' ori^^iuated from fresh water ; of which an ()I)servalion by H ruj
maun ma} iurnish an e\ani|)le. He has remarked that a spring- of warm water at Lait-
p^arncs, in Iceland, when it issues bubblin;jj from the earth, leaves no sediment of an\
kind, but deposits it at the bottom of a chaniul by llov.ini; ihrouj^h which it becomes
cooler: and this sedinient is truly ijcolitic, as has been proved by chemical examina-
tion.* The nature of this fact he satisfactorily explains as follows : " \\'hik the water
is very warm, it holds the zeolitic matter in dissolution ; but afterwards becominjiji old,
can no lonf2;er su|)port it, so that it precipitates and forms this stalactical e oncreiion."
This excellent observation will account for the freejuency of /.eolites in man} volcanos.
since the water, whether salt or fresh, bein<^ stroni^ly heated by the sul)lerraneous fires,
dissolves the zeolitic substances, which it afterwards deposits within the lava, where the}
crystallize, or remain amorphous, accordini^ to circumstances.
When the traveller has arrived at the; summit of the Monte della Sinfe, he has
reached, in that part, the confines <jf the islanel ; fi)r he suddenly perceives the sea,
about four hundred and sixty feet below him, as near as the e}e can measure. Taking-
his way lo the south, he then discovers several warm spriufrs, whieh supplv the Baths ol
Lipari, of equal antiejuity with the Stoves, but like' ihem now almost forsaken ; and,
proceeding in the same direction, meets aj^ain w ith a pr()eli};iotis <|uantiiy of decomposed
lavas similar to those of the Stoves, exhibiiiiif^ the same ^arying• colours, and coated in
djflerent places with crusts ol sulphate of lime.
When the naturalist considers, and unites in his mind, these prodiii;ious a;j;t5regations
of decomposed lavas, which occupy an area of several miles, lie wili, no doubt, be
astonished to find there is any volcanized country in Europe, in which the sulphureous
vapours, issuing from subterranean conHagrations, have acted through such an extensive
vol.. V,
Opuhc. Vol. III.
810
'»rAM.AN/ANrv rilAVCI.S
i>\Micc'. Tliosf <\\' SolfatariMli Vn/.ziuAn, which hive whitrncd it«»fnti r, and uhich tif.
iij< iilioiu tl uith a di^ivc ol uniulir by even writir nii (hat \olraiin, iiri- tirt.iinly in-
coiisuUrahli iiuliul with n^intt to tht ir ixtutt whiti cnmpand to ihcv*. Vet of alt
• he sulphm t (>iis exhalations w hich must have ^p|•t adth* ium Ives sf) w idt ly ov( r the iMland.
nut one now rtinainst inaction, cxcipl a lew \ery thin luinesthat rise Ironi the ground
near tin. Stows.
1 visited the Stoves three titnt s : the two first I ri tnriw d to iho city liy die sanie road
I wint, uhich is hollou'd in the tid'a; hut tlu third I took my way hack oy C'anipu
Uianco, and du Monte di lla Ca^ta<;na, \vlu ncc I pro(:((dut to the hif^h ttiomitain ol Sari
An^Jo. \\ e have ainad) seen that C'ainpo Ihanco and (he Monte della Casta^na an*
two inonntains lornied mtirely ol pinniies and glasses, that is to say, ol' vitrilied sid>-
stances:*' hut how extensive nuis( l»e(h( rootsoHhise snhstanees ! '['he <lccli\ity olthc
Monti della Sidle, and i(s a(n[ite plain (oxeud with tula, torn), as has been observed,
a bed ut piiniiees, mixed uith a ^riat (|uanti(y of glasses and enamels. At about the
distance ol a ({uarteroi a mile IVoin the Stoves, towards Campo liianeo, tin tula disap*
1)ear.s, and (hi punii< is it nuiiii micovend, lornnnj^a condniiaiion widi those of (.'anipo
lianeo. I ha\e also foinid iliem in the ro.id mar Mnun( S.m Aii^elo, which contains
j;rcat (juaiKitit'-, and cviry where they nrc accompaniul vvith glasses. If to these wc
add the other p.irt.s of Lipari in uhich ihi same substancis abound, I slvdl not exapj},^'-
rate if 1 sa\ dia' almost twoihirds of this island, which is nine teen miles anel a hall' in
c ircuit,are viiriliul.
This immense and almost incredibU' (|uantity of vitrifif ations may, probablj , suf^fjcst
to the naderihe same idea whith arose in m\ mind whin I fnsl \ie\\ed these places:
that the fire uhich has acted on them must have been extrimely powerful. Tliis idea
certainly appears very natura'. Hut subseepieiit experience has taught mc that this in-
tense heat is not necessary for the production of this j^reat accumulation of \itreous bo-
dies by subterranean lire s. It is certain that the protluction of pumices, enamels, and
}:;lajses reejuiresa i^reater heat than the simple fusion of lavas, when these subs'lances de-
rive their e)rif,';in frejm the same base ; but we shall not lind it necessary that this greater
heat should be extre nuly violent, if we e onsider the kinds of stones from which these
vitrified mountains have been produced. fhe greater part are feltspars and petrosilex,
with some small (|Uantitiesof liorn-ste iie. As to the latter, it has already been shewn,
that it easily \itrifies in a glass iuriuice ,.ilhno very vehement fire ; in which, likewise,
many petrosilices and some feltspars arc vitrifiablci" It has alscj been seen that the
glasses, pumiees, and enamels of Lipari are all completely re-fused in the furnace. It
appears to me', likewise, that we ha\ e positive proijls that the vulcanic lire was less vio-
lent than that of the furnace, in the substances, as well crystallized as amorphous,
which, uithout having sufleredthe least fusion, are found incorporated in the pimiices,
jjdasses, and enamels of Lipari, and uhich may be perleclly li(|uefiedin the furnace.
It cannot, howe\er, be denied that the generative lircs of Lipari must, at some time,
have been extremely vehement; since, according to the observations of ^L Dolomieu,
they have even fused granite, composed of epiarli:, feltspar, and mica, and converted it
into pumice.
The ancient writers have left us very interesting and instructive accounts relative to
the state of the conflagrations uhich in, and j)riur to their times had been observed in
Stromboli and \'uIcano; and we have niade use of them when treating of those two
islands. lint we can say nothing ol the ancient lircs of Saline, and thai chain of rocks,
• Sec Chill). XV.
> S(M. Cliup. V and Cliup XI
%
IN \niL ^^ u ^Kii.n.i..
2\i
wliiihuiu'v, prolwl)!) , inwlc a piirt ofilir isl.iiul liiioniinon, siiir-.' uiili iisjxir to tl>i"..-
,iiui'|uiiy is toLill) sill itf ; :irul\\i: crm e)iily inl't r tlmt tlu voltani?. iti )i» «)f llusi.' nvoj'*!.
aiuKu.it kiiouu lo iIk- um iuits, \\nn\ a p.isvi^^c in Dindorns, uho iiifurm't ii'i, thit ;ill
the Koliaii i'.U's vi re siiljji ci to |:;fMt i riipiioiis of (in', a*ul lliuf llicir iC.\Ui i aiul nioiifli
were slill vi-iitilcin liii liini'." U'itlnvspcct to Lipaii, very few int.inoriils have hev-n
prcJicrvctl ol its am ientconllafj^ratiuns. \\'eare iiideid certain ol the j^reat aiiiipiify ol
this island, and that iie\i«>tt(l he lure the 'rni) m war ; siiiee we li.irn I'rom Uxnerlhat,
after the takin^^of Troy, UlysNes landed there, and \va>,ireatKl with the ntiuost nrhanii)
uiul courtesy by kinjr Kohis during; a whf>le montii, whieh he continued tlurc;! and
though we allow to the poet the usual lieeiiee of poitry, it is still most certain lh.it ht
could not ha\c named this island, and the city it contained, luilt ss tln.y existed at the
lime he wrote his poem, since which nearly threi; thcHisand ) ears hive now (lapsed
But if we consult other ancient and credible writers, we shall find that before I''ohis, Li
parus reigned in this island, w hich from him to<jk its name, beinj; biforc called Melo-
gonis, or, according to f)thers, Mclij^unis.
Another observation, likewise, here naturally presents itself. An islaiul formed In
depositions, and the siibsecpjent retiring of waters, may, iit n short lime, be cultivated
and inhabited ; but it is not so u ith one that is produced by subterraiu-ous erni)tioni,
where the deeomposiiic in of voleanized matters is necessary ; that is to say, a far loni^e'i'
time. If there fore Lipari had inhabitants and cities, and was u cultivated comitry be.
fore the destruction of Troy, ilistvidenl that it must have existed many ages prior to
lliat event.
From the time, however, that mention is first made of this island in history to the
present day, we may consider it ascertain that no true criiption, or current of lava, Ikin
taken place in it j i.s, otherwise, it is probable some memorial would have been preserved
of it, as well as of those of Stromboli and Vulcano. Aristotle, indeed, mentions the
fires burning in Lipari, but adds they were only visiljle by night ;;]; and the writers who
followed him say nothing more. I hence infer that this island iiad attained its full forma-
tion and size, before it was known to men, wiiich was uoi the ease with Sirombnji and
Vulcano. I must not omit anoUier observation. Many of the lavas of Lipari still
scarcely exhibit the least sign of alteration, especially the vitreous, the enanuls, and the
glasses ; though it is evident, from what has been said aljove, that these bodies must
have existed above dircc thousand years. \\\' hence perceive sv hat an adamantine tem-
perament, if 1 may use the expression, the fire can bestow on various substances, since
they can thus resist the influence of the seasons and of time.
V\'hen I prove the antiquity of Lipari by the authority of Hf)mcr, I do not mean to
consider the other neighbouring islands as of posterior date. 1 ani likewise well con-
vinced by the testimony of history that, except Vulcanello, they were all m existence
in the lime of that poet, who probably does not mention die other Kolian isles because
Lipari was the largest, the most fruitful, and most generally known, as being the resi-
dence and seat oi ;j;overnmcnt of king Eolus.
" Aurn <ft -xwau yi^>t te)(Vi%»9iy «»jiftiffi)/i«1« jui^ayx, m K{«Ti)jjf »i yiynHfjtitti rti t« si/mala ftiXf ''• '"* •'•
4t.yifa. Lib. V.
t AioXtHkiS' «c karcf et^iact^tiG', nit 9' vaiti
IIAnth o mm.
Kai fivi T»» 4ICIIUI99* TsXio Kcti J'mfiafu Ka\t,
Mm it Teti-ra ^;txii fit, nai >^ifiiii>i« i»afa,
lAiu, AfyiiAiv Ti Kttc, naifHit Ay^aiui.
\ K« T* t« TN A<i'«(« /( TTi/f ipan^it Kat ^Kiyaiftt, ^^ i"*' ''M>$^>, <i>^A« vtxio; fi.»»i Kaitriai M>tTai. In Mlrandi^
E £ :^
Horn. Oilyss. lib. x.
Ibid.
Hii
:,i ALi./\S'^ANi'o rnAVti.;.
CHAPTER XMI.
rCLICUDA
Two \)A\-. lu tills isliuul cnpnhli.' of ivccivinr; small ViSsiK.... The products foiuul there hy the au
thor, siiHitiinllv pn.vc it v«K:airR....Ciri uii of it In sea.... Prismatic hivas I'allini,' into the sea....
Snacioiib cavern h()ll.iu-..(J in <mv ..I' these lavas.... Iii(|iiiriis rclulivt; to its origin.. ..Curious u\-
Icrnation of stratas ol tula and lava....C)iliir prisniatii: la\ as along the shore... .0:)servations re-
lative to theni....K\eiusion into the interior part of the island.... A mountain near the centre,
hirhtr than ihe re*-', on which i , disi;ovLral)h: llu' crater of an ancient vohano, to whidi, |)ro-
biihlv, I'Mieuda owes its origin....Conjectures that another smaller volcano existid .it the sum-
mit ui' a lower m<uinlaiM....Nooth>r percvival)le signs of volcauic mouths throughout th • whole
island. ... Qualities ol the lavas Innningthe interior jiart of I'Mieuda... .Cilassis, pumices, tufas,
and pu/./.olanas scatti red over th.e island. ...I'uz/.olanas and pumices emphned hy the inhabi-
tants of I'elieudain l)uilding....The su!)stances of which th> island is composed entirely vulcanic,
except a piece of grai'ite, which appears to he natural. ...Hetkctions on this roek.
IT yet remains to speak of Felicuda and Alicuda, the two cxtrcr.v isl iiids of those of
Lipari towards the west ; and 1 shall the more wjllini^ly iiiidertake llu- deseription of
them, astlK\ have not, to my k':\owledge, been visited, at least described, by any other
naturalist; "M. Dolomicii, who was most capable of examinin;^ thum, haviiiir only seen
them at a distance, as to Iiave touched tit them would have led him too lar from ins in.
tended route.
On •he 7lh of October, in the morning, I set sail, from Lipari for Felicnda, tlistant from
the former island twenty-three miles, tmd arrived there in Jour iioiu's. This island is not
provided witli a port ; but it has two bays, one on the south, and the other on the north,
cast side, suttieient for the reception of small vessels, and so situated, that thotigh the
wind should render the entrance into one of them difficult, it will be easy to get into the
other : both of them are likewise sufficiently sheltered by a mountain.
I landed in the bav on the north-east side, and, in the first place, applied myself to
discover of what materials the island was lormed ; and soon discovered incoiUestible
proofs that it is truly volcanic. Not only is the shore of this bay lined with lava ; but,
having in the course of the day proceeded Kirther up on the soudi-east side of the isl-
and, i found among the earth of some llelds a considerable (itiuniity of pumices, glasses
and enamels, which products I shall separately descriije w hen I come to treat of the in-
ternal part of the island.
Eehig dius fully convinced of llie ancient existence of fire in this island, I determin-
ed, the next day, to make the eircuit and e\amine the shores of it in the same manner
as I hiid proceeded in the oilier islands,
Felicnda is nine milts m eircuinierenee. T be.'ytn llu eircuit of it by examining the
'avas that border the small bay which I entered. 'J'hese have lor their base tht; feltspar,
which is ';f ;i scaly consisience, alight gray colour, not very compact, but giving a lew
sparks with steel and attracting the magnetic needle. Within its substance are included
iKcdics of black and fibrous slioerl, and small pieces of feltspar, which are easily distin-
guishable from the base by their whiteness, senii-transi)arence, and lustre. A part of
th.e shores ol the bay arc composed of tliis lava \vith dcej) lissinvs running lengthwise, as
we see in many other lavas. A number ol round vacuities are likewise observable in n.
They are of ct/nsiderable depth, and give it th - appearance f)f a honey-comb. I rather
T
Ili'II
T
I.N I 111. 1 we in: II, It:..
2 1.)
(lU'linc lo asrrihc tlicnito the nctioii of clastic j^nstnus siibstaiuxs, wlici; the lava was in
a state of I'lisioii, lliaii to coriMsifnis pnjtliicfd by the iiilliitiirc; ol'ilie atmosphere or.i,i\
external af^cnt. It is certain that the air of the sea will jifreatly corrode many fossil siiu
stanres situated in its vicinity ; and I have witnessed extraordjiv.irs- clKcits from itsaetioii
on aany low ro»ks, on the sli'irr of ijic Mediterranean, near (Imoa, and cspcei-illv at
VorU) Wnire, tlk Ciolfo (Klla S[)(.;;ia, and at Lcriei. I have .ijso lr',(|ncntly (;i)Mer\eil
the external part ol many .ovwri, and maritime huildint^s very much injiuxd on that side
which fronts tiu- \\att.r. Tiie eit\ of Commachio in the territor}- of Kerrara, perhaps,
fnrnislus some ol' the most complete exain])les of such efl'ects. It is situated in th'
midst of salt lakes; and its porticos and edifices are so nnich corroded and damaged In
the air, that they arc obliged to undergo periodical repairs at the "nd of no very long
lime, lis I (jbserved with surprise during a short sta}' which I .,. le there in Oelf)l)er
17'.)2. The sea air, however, does not act thus on e\ery fossil substance indiH'erently.
but, with respect to stones, seems principally to attack the carbonates of lime; though
not all of these, as appears from the hard Istrian marble with which the superb palaces
and siuiiptuous edifices of \'enice are built, and which remains uninjinvd lor a longsi -
ries of years. I likewise observe tint volcanic stony substances are little, or not at all.
injured by the air of die sea ; and I am thi- more conliinied in m} opinion that the inca-
vationsin thelitoral lava of which I am now speaking must be attiibuted to the acti(;n
of aeriform gases, and not to that of the sea air, from obser'.ing the same, likewise, in the
fcltspar, a stone much less liable to this kind of alieiation than many ethers.
After having made these observations, I left the bay, and began to coast the island
towards the left, ondie norihern side. I had scarcely proceeded one hundnd and fdty
paces when I met wi''>arock of lava, about thirty liet high, andecjnally broad, rising
almost pcrpendicidarly from the water. This rock ijresenied a novelt} 1 had not before
observed in the i'Lolian isles. This was a number of prisms into which the lavadi\ided
before it plunged into the sea. The importance of this object induced me to bring my
boat close under the rock, that I might make the necessary observations uilh more cer-
tainty and secmitN .
About twelve leet abo\elhe level of die seadu roek is smooth and presents an equal
surface; but somewhat l()\\er it begins to be furrowed with narrower longitudinal ex-
cavations, which descend lo the edge of the water, and form pri-iins with three une(jual
sides, the side behind remaining afaclied to the rock, or, to speak more properly, form-
ing one continued whole with ii. These prisms continue to j'reser\e their form under
the water, of which 1 had indubitable proof. 'J'he sea, though then calm, had a slight
roughness towards t!ie roek, to allay wiiieh I ponivd into it some olive (ji!, which I
always carried w^th me in these excursions to cahn the lesser wa\es of t'le sea,anddnis
enable myself to perceive subaqueous bodies at a certain depth as circumstances might
require. By diese means I discovered that the prisms were imnursLd in the sea to the
depth of some feet. The breadth o*' some of the prisms was a foot and a half, but that
of others less.
Thib jjrismatic lava merits to be very accuraleh- described, since, in prosecuting my
vo\age aiongthe shore of Felicnda, i met with it in sexeral other places, and shall again
have occasion to mention it. Its base is a hern-stone t)f the black colour of iron, and
so compact that the smallest bubble is not j/crceivable in it ; it must, therefore, be class-
ed among the heavy lavas. The edges of the thinnest Hakes of it are transparent, and
give sj.aiks with steel. Its fragments are amorphous, and recei\e a polish, butwith.out
lustre. It attracts the ntagnetic needle at about the distance of three lines. The pow-
der of this lava Is cincritious, and impalpable, and attaches to the linger. In it are cou-
„ll
;,i'.\i,t.Ax;: ANJ':; lii wmj;
t;niH(l vaiiMiis j;niivs ol" amorphous llltspar.aiula jijaatcr iunnb<-r nl smnll, lonLj, riiom-
huiil.il shoirls. f • 1
'I'hr product of this lava in ihr iurnarc is a hard rnanu), of thi: colour of pitch, and
full o( hubl)!f.s. 'riir Rltspars it cntHaius remain rt.fnict(jry. It i:, to 1h>. rcmark,c\l, ihut
t!>is cnanul docs not Insctlic mai;hctic virtiu-.
The place '.vlu re this rock hani-s over the sea i> called I'llu di Sacra, beyond it the
Jitjie of the i.slaiul, which conliniies to have asleep descent into the sea, oflTersonly com-
mon lavas, except one species which has some rtidc appearance of prisms, that assume
a more distinci form near the surface of the wattr.
Still fartlur, at a place called Saecat;tie, a imnilxr of sinall rocks rise above the siir-
faei' of tin waK r : one of which is calied I IVreiato, bccmse it is perforated iii the rr.id-
die, and tlu; oju'Siin;^^ is wide enoui^h to admit small vessels to pass through. The forms
of prisms are distinctlv discernible in these rocks.
At the distanci of iii'ty pac( s farther, a spacious cavern opens in the lava of the shore ;
nn object hifj:hlv interestint:;and beautiful in the eyes of the volcanist. I '.s -d the
Grotta del Hove xMarino (or Grotto of the sea-ox) perhaps bccatise it w^ ' i; '...e re-
treat of sf)me phoca or seal, as iti the Lipari islands, and many other places, the phocas
are calk d sea-calves. The ntouth of this cavern, in tiie epjier part, is oval, and is sixty
feet in breadth, and al)ove f(jrtv in hei,L,dit. The mouth opens into a kind of porch
which leads into a spacious hall two huuiireil feet lone;, or nearly, one hundred and twenty
broad, and sixtv-five hii^h. This hull terminates the cavern. The sea enters it; and
as its f(Mce is broken by the narrowness of the entranee, small barks when surprised by a
storm niav there lind slK.lter.
Sf)nienny perhai)s wish to iiuiuire, whether the roof of this cavern preseiits any of
those stalaciieal eoncniions which are observable in many other c".eayutions in moun-
tainous coimtries. No such coneietions are to bv seen ; the stone ()f which it is form-
ed beins^ evidently not of an acpieous but an igneous, that is, a lava distinguished by the
followin!f characters : i i- u
Its base is shoerl in the mass; it is moderately porous, and therefore rather light ,
but i^nves sparks with steel, h is unecpial in thcYraetures, has a somewhat ari^illaecc i'.-
odour, and attracts the magnetic needle at the distatice of half a line. It is o.<. a gn.
colour; but interspersed with white, shining, rliomboidal felispars. Their splendour is
diminished in the fin-naee ; but their w hiten'ess appears heightened from the black colour
ae(]uired l)V the enamel produced !)y the fusion of the lava, which is opaque and extreme-
ly lull of luibbles. The fusion, iiistead of diminishing or de.-.troying, rather increases
its magnetism.
This lava, which forms the large cavern, descends almost perpendicularly into the sea,
and lliere assumes the form of prisms, but larger than those before described. It is
worthy of remark, that these prisms, though in their lower i-urtthey sink deep into the
water,' do not rise above it, in their ui>per, more than 'iglu or niiic feet.
But in what manner are we to explain the origm ol 'his cavern? How greii. neast
have been the violence of the waves of tlu sea, to form by slow e;j.rosion so vast a-ie c
cavation within this mass of lava ! To this cause 1 c in'.cl cousciit to ascribe it ; priiici-
pally fortius reason, among others thai might be adduced, but v.hich I omit for brevity,
that no sooner has the water entered the mouth oi' ihe cavxra but it loses all its force ;
besides that the hardness of this lava is such, that it does not ea^'y >ield to the stroke
of the waves. I incline rather to think it the eifect of the action oi the gases in the lava
at the time it was in a stale of fluidity ; as we have examples at Etna of caverns incom-
parably deeper produced by a similar cause.
IN Dli; TV.0 SICILlF.ti.
2ij
-.i.c rc-
Immediately l)tyoiKl the lu-ntt:i flvU Hove Marl.M), wc meet with a mixture of tufa
lava, wliidi nierifh sume atteniiou fnjiu tin.' curious alterualiou of its strata. Tliey are
found on u hij^^h precipice whicli descends iuto the sea, the surface of which is covered
with a tiifaccous soil, restinf^- oi\ a bed of la\a, al)()vc another of tufa, and so succes-
sivelv, tliat in a rent made in the j)recipice by the waters we may number eleven strata
or beds of tufa, and as many of inler[)osed lava. It appears, therefore, that the lire and
water, by their repeated action, have produced tins mixture of lavas and tullis.
The lava of the eleven beds is of the same kind, that is, of a horn-stone base, and con-
taining, as usual, shoerls and felis[)ars. It has an earthy aspect, a blackish colour, and
a strou}^ art^^illaeeous odour. It moves the mai^netic needle at the distance of two lines,
and the enamel into which it is changed in the furnace has the opacity and blackness of
pitch, and its magnetism is greater than that of the lava before fusion.
The beds of tiifa, iikew i'se, do not essentially difier from each other. They are ati
ill-kiicaded mixture of lumps of argillaceous earth, more or less tinctured with }ellow
oxyde of iron, which earth is .asily pulverable. With it are mixed numerous shoerls,
that from the softness of the bi se may be separated entire, \\hich Uiey scarcely ever can
be in the lava. Notwithstanding, however, the fecility with which they niay be de-
tached, it is diflicult to determine their crystallization, not merely from their extreme
minuteness, for some of them are two lines in length, but from their being scarcely
ever found single, almost every one being a group of aggregated shoerls. When one,
however, is found single and detached, it appears to be uu hexagonal prism terminated
by two trihedral pyramids. They are black, shining in the recent fractures, and arc
somewhat fibrous:' in fine, they perfectly rasemble in their structure the shoerls incor-
porated in lavas.
The tufii, after remaining two or three hours in the furnace, assumes u red colour,
and become hard ; its magnetism is likewise strong, though before it was scarcely per-
ceptible. A longer continuance in the same fire reduces it to a porous scoria, which
does not lose its magnetism, and the black colour it acquires renders more conspicuous
a number of white fcltspars which before were not discernuble in the tufa. The shoerls
are semi-vitrifud, and assume a yellowish tinge.
In the ren\ainder of my circuit round die island, till I returned to the place whence
I set out, I observed no other ititeresting objecUy, excepting a long tract of prismatic
lavas, similar to those I have already described.
I shall conclude what I have to say on these prismatic lavas, which occupy a consider-
able part of the shore of the island, with the following remarks :
First, These prisms have never more than three faces, one of which always remains
adherent to the lava.
Secondly, Their direction is never oblique or transverse, but, without exception,
perpendicular to the sea.
Thirdlv, They are not articulated, as thcv have been observed to be in some vol-
canic countries, esi-'ecially on Mount Etna, but form one contmued line.
Fourthly, In their lower extremity iliey descend within the water, and in their upper,
rise some feet above the level of the sea.
Fifthly, These piismatic lavas have for dieir base, cither die horn- stone or shoerl in the
mass.
I shall now proceed to describe the objects which appeared to merit notice in the in-
terior part of Fclicuda. This island, wlien seen from the sea, at a little distance, has
the appearance of a number of mountains heaped together ; one of which, situated in
the centre, is much higher than the rest, rising perhaps half a mile above the level of
^Itl
\ 1. 1. A \ / A N' I ;. J U A \ i: 1.
ihc sea. Alu r li:i\ nip,- tKaiiiiiu d tlu- hn- c or shore ul' tlu islaiul, 1 jM'DcC'dt d, tlKrcn^rf,
to the suiumii nl' iliis in'MiiUaiu, Uikiii;;- my wax to;\;ti(ls ilic lasi, a>., >'ii iluil side, the
road is kasl dillictilt. 'I'lic astcnt is nol one of tlif most ralij^uiiii.- ; lor, though \vv
nu< i; with sttcp precipices in souk- parts of it, th<\- are prestiitly succeeded by }^entl(
cic(Ti\ itits. \\]u( li rclii \(' wiariiicss and nslore stri ii!;th.
\\ lu 11 I h:;d re ;;chcd the vuniniit ol the central nu)iintain, 1 ]->i rciived that it inclosed
a capacious holhiw calkd I'ossa (1( Ik Felci (the ditch oi" lerii) h'.causc 1. Ibrmerly was
o\ ( r-};i('\\ n w ith thai plant ; lli()ii!;h w In n 1 was there it had hei ii ill rooted up, v ith the
iiUeniiou ol" sow in;.'; v<in\ the nc :.t spring-. This hollow is about hall a mile in circuit,
the sides a|)pr('aeh as t!h y desciiid, and its eU plh i-> not moic than forty ket. These'
( iiiunistaiucs sulliciiiUly provi' that this \\;isthc ancient crater ol' the volcano; and
thai, prihaps, or latht \ illiout (k)ubt, this was the ih"st. which, by its eructatioi\s, con-
trilniti el to ilie lormalii. . lie iida.
It is likewise to be oh- d, that the external part of this crater corresponds to the
internal; that it i. a truncated eeiu ; that its la\as, partini^as Irom a exntre, have di-
\( ri;<.vl like ra\ s down the sides ol' the mountain, while those on the side towards the
norih->\est haw peuiid rapidi} itUothe sea. The proposal to sow corn in this hollow
aigues that it Uiiist be earthy, as it really is. It is I'ormed of a half pulverulent tufa,
under whieh, 1hjwc\( r, the lava is disco\crable.
'I'hree ridi;es rise oi\ this mountain, one of which descends to the south; and, at
about half way up, joins anodur mountain. The secontl of these ridges has its dircc-
lion to the east, anel the thiid to the west. Frorn this summit I had a comjilete view ol"
Felicuda, and looked round me with attention to sec if I ce)uld discover the signs of any
other eraur. I th(;i!|;ht I ci uld eliseern the \estiges of ojie to the south-east, and after-
wards, repairinij; to the spot, was more e-onfunicd in my opinion. I k)und a hill about
half »is high as the mountain alriad\ described, and about two miles in circuit. It is
isolaleel on c\ery side, and has the figure of a bre)ken cone, truncated at the top, where
it sinks into a cavity growing narrower towards the bottom, which appears to be the
relies of an aneient cr..tei. Scatieretl pieces of various lavas, half-bnried in an earthy
lula, ocetip\ the ca^ it\ ol this hill, and its external sitles are formed of a number of
currents ol lavas.
Kxcejn these two ir.Ueis, of the hist of which I have expressed myself with some
doubt, 1 know not of an\ throughout the whole island; as I shall iu)t venture posi-
ti\el\- to eonsiekr as such a number of cavities, hollows, and ca\erns which we meet
with in various plaees, such apj)earances not being suilicii nt to characterize a volcanic
inoiiih.
The prineii)al lavas of the shejre of Felicuda have already been described singly : it is
now necessary to s|)ecily those vvhich form the internal and more elevated parts of the
islanel. These, as far as I vvas able to eliscover, during the- stay of five d; s which 1
made there, may be reduced to three kinds, if we omit those w hich arc merely va-
rieties.
The !)ase (;f the first is a horn-stone (jf a colour between a black and a gray, of a frac-
iiMV evidently brilliant. with(;ut any appearance of pores, and which gives sparks copi-
ously with btewl. 'File pieces intcj which it breaks have no determinate form, do not
reiuse a tol( rable polish, and move the magnetic needle at the distance of a lint and
three- fourths. Minute grains of (|Uartz, numerous scales of feltsi)ar, and extremely
small and brilliant neeeliesol shoerlare incor;' ;rated in this kiva.
The turnace fuses the shoerls, but ne)t the (juartz and the fcltspars; luid the lava is
chanijed into a black, frodiy.and e)pa(|ue enamel.
\U THn two niCIMELI.
9.V,
This lava extremely resembles tlic prisnuitio lava ckscrilKcl abovt. ; lhoii.';^Ii ii li-;s w
that re gular conH^airation.
The- lava of the second speeies is likewise of the iiorn-stone base ; not very h.v/cl iv.r
heavy ; of a eiiioreoiis and earlliy aspeet, without pores, attailvs sli-lilly to t!:e inside o'
tlieli", , and emits an argillaceoub odour. 'J"he shoerls it contains are iIionilMudal, bc.ily.
and «jfa \ iolet colour.
In the furnace it is onlv softened, and die shocrls remain entire.
Th<-d>ird sptcieshas for its base shocri in llic mass. It is black widiout pores, \:\.
ther heav\', and of a granular IVacture.
The htte;<)!;tnous stones which arc mixed with the substance of this lava, are «..i
thne kinds : small irrci^^ular quartzose particles, which, froni their whiteness, ure nio:>;.
conspicuous : a few minute ft Itspars, and numerous rhomboidal shocrls, ofa dark violet-
colour, and remarkable f(.«r {\n ir si;ic, some of them cxtendin,!^ to seven liiu.s.
The feltspjis ai:d(iuart'/.ose grains arc refractory in tlie furnace ; though dicir baser,
easily fusible, and produces a shining, opacpie, and porous enamel.
The internal ))arl of the island, as far at least as appears frf)m the surface, is con>
posed of Uiesc three lavas and their varieties; which lavas fonn currents, that, from
their great anticpiity do not exhibit those tumours, wavings, and inequalities, which are
observable in rccen't lavas, or those of a moderate age. The same anticpiity is, likewise,
probabl) the reason why in Felicuda we do not find scoriic, or scoriaceous lavas ; thest
usually from their slight and feeble texture, and from their lying on the surface of the
current, being the first which are altered and destroyed.
When treating of Lipari, I remarked the great cflccts which have been produced oi;
the products of that island by the sulphureous acid exhalations. The contrary is tob:
observed of Felicuda, there not being a single lava which exhibits the least sign of theii
influence ; though they all bear the marks of the injuries of time and of the atmosphere.
So much have I found" them changed, especially near the surface, drat had I not brokei.
up the lavas to the depth of some feet, a practice to which I had accustomed myself
in these researches, I should frequentl} have taken the same lava for others specificalb.
different.
Having thus described the different kinds of lavas of this island, it will now be propci
to proceed to treat of the other volcanic substances it contains. Among these are die
tufas, which arc found in great abundance in other parts of the island beside those above
described. In general they are pulverulent, light, spongy, of an nrgillaeeous nature,
and greedily imbibe water. The i)laces in which they are found, are the only parts of
the island which the inhabitants can render productive by cultivation.
It is among the tuias that we discover glasses and pumices. VV^e will treat of these
two substances separately, beginning with the first.
I have already said, that 1 had scarcely landed in Felicuda before I discovered several
pieces of volcanic glass. In my subsccii'icnt researches, I afterwards discovered that this
glass was not found among tlie lavas, but in the cultivated eardi of the fields. The
peasants of those parts confirmed the truth of this observation, and, finding I was in
search of this substance, brought me more of it than was necessary, which they collected
lava is
these being only detached pieces. The trench they dug was eight feet deep and five in
breadth. For the depth of two feet I found only a tufaceous earth, containing somti
VOL. V.
i- i'
Jls
'.VM\.AS7..\}< I
T It A \- E r. S
of these Mircous pitris. At a }j;rciitcr ckpth the virL!;iii tufa appciircd, niitotjchcd by
the ploui^h-shnre, or an} nistie iiistruiiKiit. 'I'his uila likew i^e liiniished a similar }j;lass,
hut ahva} s in dctai lad pieces ; nor w as an\ dillerc nee perceivable in the nature oi' these
produets, nu contiuuin^^ the research to the holtoiu oi' the trench, where the tufa wa'.i
'..till found.
Jt ai)pears, therefore, that the irlass in the i)louii,hed fiLJds had its seat in die tufa;
though it cannot he allirnieii with ecriainty, that it was thro^VM out from the mouth ol
the volcano in the same state in which it is now seen ; since it is only found in plates or
Hakes, and wiih those points and siiarp angles, those cutting edges and waving streaks,
which we observe in glass, whether v(jleanie or factitious, when it has been broken and
(li\ ided into IhigJiutUs by a hamnur, or other Ik avy bod} . \Ve must therefore conclude,
that after the sul)terra\iean eontlagralions had reduced the stony substance to glass, this
I'lass has btui thus broken and shivered bv some convulsion of the earth, or bv some
\iolent and tunuiltuary agent.
'J'JK larg( r pit (is are al)out l\w inches and a half over, and two in thickness. Many
of them are not inferi(jr in clearness and iirillianey to the linest and brightest glasses oJ
I^ipari ; otlurs are less transparent, and of a eineritious, or gray colour; while others
.ire almost entirely opa(|ue ; and these ajiproaeh nearer to the nature of enamels than to
that of glasses. Tlu y are all, how ever, extremely compact, and w ill readily gi\ e sparks
w ilh steel, aiKi cut common artificial glass. Se\eral of these jiieees eijutain within them
small white particles, which have been observed and desiribed in many of the' glasses ol
Lipari, which particles indie;ite that the glasses containing them is not so perfectly
vitrified as the rest. We also fmd pieces, though they are rare, the e>i.e half of which
is a AeT}- black glass, and the other a simple lava. The lava, wiiich thus forms a whole
w ith the glass, is of a cinernious colour, and, as appears from some analyses which I
have made of it, is of a petrosilieeous base.
This glass, like other volcanic glasses, changes in the furnace into a vitreous frotii.
It now remains to speak of the pumices, which are likewise enveloped in these tufas.
These ne>er lorm large masses, but are always found in detached pieces, of rather a
small size, the largest rarely exceeding the bigness of the closed hand. In general they
are more plentiful than the glasses, and among the tufas of uncultivated places, it is only
necessary to remove the surl'acc to fmd them by hundreds. During my stay at Fehcuda
I resided' in a place called La Valle della Chiesa (or the Valley of the Church.) This is
a small plain, on the east side of the island, in which stand the parsonage-houseand the
ehuich, two indilVe rent buildings, suitable to the poverty of the country. This place,
as likewise a spacious declivity to the seiuth, abounded with pumices, bodi on the surface
of the tufas, and below the surface, wherever they were dug into.
These jjumices are of two kinds; the one cellular, extremely friable, fd^rous, and
which flexit on the water ; and the other compact, heavy, without pore s, and of a smooth
fracture ; but which yet jiossess ail the true characters of pumice. Some are of a red-
dish colour, others yelllow ish, and many ash-gray. All are plentifully furnished with ex-
tremely brilliant n itreous feltspar-seales.
In my observations on the pumices of Vulcano I liavc remarked, diat instead of swel-
ling in the furnace, and l.ieing transformed into an ebullient product, as is almeist always
the case with glasses and comi'aet enamels, they become of less bulk, lose their pores, if
they had any before, or at least contract, and therelore become hea\ier. The present
pumie;es do' not ditler in this respect from those of Vulcano ; and the enamel which
r.hev produce in the furnace has a black and shining ground, interspersed with whitish
i s i II r. 1 W'l oil- i Ml..;.
J\<>
spors ul.ich -MX liU-,iurs, lluit, havin- lo.t ihclr l-.istrc ;huI tran.paicm'.y, are xxoinc w.m'^
This ciunndputs llic maf.niaic iiccdlc in motion at the distann.jof ,i lull aur, r.r,tuu1.
staiuliiur lluil it had no sciisih'.c illl ct on it wlitn in the Male (.1 pinnic.-. ^
Thcit- is no reason to suppose that these pnniicts have i ver lornKil cnTr-iVi., ')()tn !)|-.
cause thcv are always found in detached pieres, and because their poies have not that (1.
reetion ^^\ud^ is usually ohsers able in pu.niees that hav c Honed m li. ■ manner o ava ;
Tnc fiirurc of the pores in pumices that have flow, d, is usually more: or Jess oblon;; .
uherciVs in the pumices of I'elicuda (I mean th.e cellular) the pores are almost aluap
orbicular. We must therefore conclude that thev have been throu-n out Irom the moutU^.
of volcanns ; to which the glcibose figure of many of them is perlectly eop.sonant.
I .should I steem my account of the dilllrent productions ol tins island verv delcetive.
were 1 not to mention another which still more coniirmsils volcani/.ation : 1 iTiean the
puzzolana f.nmd here in several places, and which, when carehdly V;^;'innKd, is louno
to be a mixture of minute fragments of pimiices, tufas, and lavas. 1 he niliaimants oi
Fclicudamakeuseof it,as also the pumice, in building their houses m tiie l.^llowmg
manner- thcv bring carbonates of lime (calcareous eardis) from Sicily, and !)urii thein
in furnaces, which are erected fr;r greater convenience on the sca-shore; and at the e:ul
of fortv hours an excellent lime is produced. One-tiiird of lliis and two-thirds ol pu::-
zolana, mixed together with water, form a cement which unites andbi.^U the pieces ol
lava here used instCLid of bricks and stones; and to give, as they aSrrm, u greater
strength and solidity to the cement, they mix with it pounded pumic. ol then- own
country. , , , • i i •. . i
Lavas arc used as materials for the building of houses, not only i)y tlie inhabitants ol
Ftlieuda, but by diose of all the other Kolian isles, each using those ot their own island;
and it is the practice, not onlv in the country but even the eitus, to build witli sucU
stones as the environs afford, c'speciallv wlien they arc mountainous. I thirelore, where
ever I went, constantly examined die materials of which the villages,^ towns, and cities
through which I passed were built; which frequently a Horded me a light and directKiii
in mv' inquiries relative to the fossil sul)stances of those countru s.
On reviewing die different volcanic bodies which I met \u\h at relicuda, wc sha 1 lind
that they consistof glasses, pumices, tufas, piu/A)lana, and la\as with a base ol shoerl,
feltspar in the mass, or horn-stonc. The island at present exhibits no indication ol sub
tcrranean fire, and even those signs whicli are uncertain and e(iui\ ocal arc wanting ;
such, for instance, as warm springs. ^
In the various excursions I nude, I was particularly attentive to obr.crvc il by acci
dent I should meet with any body not volcanized, and found oik only (jI this descrii)iion.
This vMvs a piece of detached granite, lying on the shore near the Grotti del Bov Marino.
Its elements were of the most common kind; mica, feltspar, and (luariz. 1 he mica
was partly black, and partly white and silvery ; both forming groups in which the black
predominated. The quartz was in small semi-transparent masses, oi a Mtreous ami
brilliant fracture, soft to the touch, and of a colour between a blue aiul a y.hite. 1 nc
feltsi)ar, which in (juantity exceeded the two other principles, and therdore must be
considered as the base of the stone, was in small masses of uneciual surface, lamellar in
the fractures, transparent in the angles, and of a changeable milky wliiteiRSs. ^^■'^»^"''
of the three principles has a determinate form of crystallization. I think I shall not bo
mistaken if I assert, that this granite has not suffered the action of the lue. In fact, a
continuance of a quarter of aii hour in the furnace produced in it so great an alteration,
that every part of it was sensiblv changed. The mica became pulverable, the quartz
rxtremeiy friable and full of cracks, and, losing its transparency and vitreous brilliancy,
F F 2
.■2[)
.PAi.l-.VN.IANr.. 1 UAVKl.r.
became entirely white. The f< hspar likiwise cnntraeted a eoiisideralilc fri.ihihtv, losliif*-
at the same time iisehaiiij;(al)li. cnldiir, ami Ijceoiuiiij; whiter. It is not thin. liiiro extra-
ordinary that a bhi^ht Mow with a hnnmir shonlil iin\ luvak this stone into small
|)iiT.fs; tiioiiich iKlnri. it W(»iil.l .m!y Mrik*.' oil "al ino^t a sin ;Ic- liaj^nKiit. When ex
posal to till' lurnacf lor scvumI d.iys sn.:tissi\t.ly tin (|ii .rtz and niie.adid not fuse ; and
the fdtspur only c-.hihited at thr an'^Ks, a Ix ^;inniM;.^ot lusion, whieh made itapjicaras
it Wire iinctiKMis. This expi rinu nt is prrlictlv aj^reiaMe to many othirs which I made
in the I'lirnaee on the granites treated of in Chap. XII. \VV must therefore conelnde,
that this piece of gr.iiiitc was thrown out nntcaich' il from some voleano in the island »
or, whieh appears more probable, that it is adventitious to it ; lor it is to be observed,
that it was not loinid in the interior part of the isl.md, l)ui on the Inaeh, where it h id beeu
beaten, and had its eorner-. snioothed by the wavis. Were I to indnli^o eofijeettire, 1
should incline to suppose it mi,L;ht have beeu brought by the sea from Capo Alilazzo i<i
Sicily, or that vicinity, which is only fifty-four miles distatit from relicuda, and wlicr"
Miimeni^e njasses of similar granite are found. *
CH.APTKR XVIII.
.M.ICUDA.
Oanp/i 11 whuh tiu .milior w.ns cxpo-^id, in a tempest, on his pass.ifjc from Fdicuda to Aruaiu.t
....Piunues aii'l i;las.si s t'mmil in tlii' 1 aiti ri<il.iiiil....l'".\amiiiutiou ol tlu: const ol Alii:iida....Sc-
.eial rorks l(aiiu li ol (KtatlutI jrloht sol lava.... Inquiiits n lativclo tiie origin of ilu si globes.. ..
ronfinnation of tin,: imci-rlaiiu\ of any opinions foinuil nlativi: to tho ^reaUr or Uss anticpiity
ol lavas, bom tlic niori' or U'ss s. n-iiblr ili composiunn tii'V may have mnU ri;Mn(.....Is(lali(l
masses of pdrphviy, \vliich (.xinliit no sijiins of liavinir l)Lvn attacked hy volcanic lire....I.avas of
anotlur kind....Slioi rls of a Rnmish blue colour coi-.ained in all lluse lavas.... The coist ol Ali'
■ uda more rujij^i d and thre;;lenin)>ihan that ol any other <if the Kolian isles.... No mouiii of any
ancient irater in tlie sides of t!ie island. ...'i'lir appearance of a true crater found onl\ al lli.snin-
inil....l..avas in tin.' interior jiait ol the island similar to those of the shores. ...Imi)rol)a')irii\ that
rdicuda and Aliciula once lianu-d a single conical mountain, the siile ol which has been o|)ened
and separated by tlie sta,us M. Dolomieu has supposed. ...Krason'i for bLliL^•in^• th it each was
originalls a sejiaiate island.... Tluse two islai.ds no lou^n-r manifest an\ si^ns of actual lire....'I'hf;
-ilenee ol the ancients relative to their fury euiptiuns, a pioof tliat lluy must have long ceased
fo burn.
ON the 1.1th of October, at sun-rise, I left Felicuda, in a small bark, with four rowers,
which w.is steered by the i)arish-|)riest of Felicuda, who had the character of a skilfid
seaman. We sailed before a moderate east w ind : the sky was clear, the sea smoodi,
and we flattered ourselves we should soon reach the place of our desiinaiion, as the dis-
tance between these two sukiU islands is not more than ten miles. But scarcely were
we half way, when the wind began to increase sf> that we were obliged to reef oiir sail,
\vhiehit was dangerous to carry fidl; yet still we made more way than before; and the
wind blowing with greater violence, and driving us rapidly towards Alicuda, from which
wc were nov/ not far distant, endangered our being sliipwrecked on the shore. Bays or
harbours are things unknown in this island, and our bark driving before the wind, it was
•-> be feared., tnight soon dash against a rock, or run upon a sand-bank ; and we had the
• Sec Chap. Xir.
IS IMF rwo MCIMF.:;.
J2\
il\ud
:ihi'.
Irss l.npc oriuini; .ilili.' to avoid this d iiiK.r, as our suiloi^, from un[v.iulun.il)K; iK;;ii.
ifLncf, had not brought uit'.i ihiin anyaiH hor.
Til.: sea, it: ihi- nuaiitinu', ran vtry hi;;h ; and the waves, wliic h uould not lurhips
havi'Kivtii MiiP h.daiiii to a hirnr shipi uc re very rormidablc to our little vessel, whicli
tluv hroke over I'roni side to side, and IVom stern to prow, whirliii;; it n.nnd uitli their
violence; whili tl»e danger of being wruked continually inm-ased by onr iipproacliiiijj;
the island, notwithstanding all thei :ani(.ns we conid make with our oars to keep oil it.
Onr sailors, how cvir, did not i niirrly abandon the lusclvi s to dt sp;',ir, bvit eonsiilted whe-
ther it woidd be less dangi rous to \'\'.U\ to the \ioltnee (if the waves, and etideavonr to
rim the bark on sonic sandbank ju'ining to the siiore ; or, avoiding tht; island, to adven-
ture ont to sea, and commit thenisi Ives to thi' mercy of the winds.
In this desperate sitnalion, we jicreeived live men hastily desetnding from the cnu
ncnccsof Alicnda, andai)proaehingthe shore, whieh they {piiekly reached; when one
of thtm called to us in a voice which might be disiinc tly heard noiwilhstandmg the noise
of the waves, advising ns not to Ix- tcnilied, Ijiit to endeavour to keip where wc were,
and he would exert his utmost elloris to deliver us from the danger by which we were
threatened. . p » ,. , i
This person, as I afterwards foimd, was the parish-priest of Alicnda, who pcrcening
from a distance the situation in which we were, had hastened with four of the islanders
to give us assistance. He had brought with him a strong pulley, which, when li\ed on
the shore, was to receive a rope, l)V means of w hich the vessel miglu be drawn upon the
land. But to effect this, it was nJcessary to form a kind of inclined plane on the shore,
along which the boat might be drawn; which was soon done, with the spades and sho-
vcls that had been provided lor the |)nrpose.
We were not more than fifteen leet from the land, and by incessantly plying our oars,
made every effort to avoid approaching it nearer. We were obliged, at the same time,
continuallv to bale the water out of the boat, to prevent its sinking ; which was the con-
tinual empio) ment of myself and my si rvant, the sailors being entirely occupied m using
the oars. A rope coiled up was now thrown on shore by one of the sailors, and, after
two or three unsuccessfid attempts, caught by the persons on die beach and passed
through the pulley ; while the' sailor drew it tight, and fastened it to the prow of the bark.
We now committed ourselves to the first wave that rolled upon the shore ; and, the
five islanders pulling the rope with all their force, we were drawn wi'i the bark up the
shelving declivity they had made : but the wave on its return dashing impetuously
against the prow, drove us again into the sea; and so violent was the shock, that the
rope broke, and we lost all h'oi)e of getting safe on shore. At this unfortunate and un-
expected accident the good priest struck his hand against his forehead, from vexation
and disappointment, and oin- consternation was extreme.
We had now resolved to keep off Irom the island, and brave the fury of tlic winds
and the waves in the open sea, whatever might be the event : but from this we w ere dis-
suaded by these islanders, who assured us it was impossible so small and crazy a boat as
ours should long resist the violence of the storm in the wide sea ; but that it must either
overset, or bilge and sink. They advised us rather to coast the island towards the north,
where \vc might possibly find some small inlet, where we might be less exposed to the
waves ; pronTising ul hat they would proceed the same way along the shore, and afiord
us every assistance in their power. This advice we followed, and bearing up to the
north, without standing far from the shore, in about half an hour met with a cavity in a
rock which, from being \vinding, wa:i not much exposed to the agitation of the waves.
Into this we happily :urried our bark without damage, and landed, with the assistance
'J^u
.I'M. I \N/.\vr.i in v, : r.
of tlu" worih) priist iiiul ilio piison^ with Iiim, tonanhwiium I sluill l<.il the u irincst
hi'us.uiunsol' j;i.itinulr uhili.' lili- ■.hill luuiiin. lit In atfd us uhcii t>u sIidH' \\\\\\ the
iitnio>,i kiiuliKss iiiul lidspiiality ; ninl wliiii I lia«l jjrrHrmi'! to him tlic «iniiliir ktt<.r 1
hiulnii ivul iVoiu the l/i-.hop ol' Lipari (in \;iiuh I \v;is w.fMily i< ' iinnuiKlvd to the
p;u>h piitsts i\ thi»si islands, uh'j ^\x\\: r((|iii lUil lo luriiisli nic with tviry assistance
mnssaiy I'Dniiy ,)liil(>si)phital rrnian lusdMriii)^ luy Ma) ^ iio rrdouhUd his(i\iliiv, of.
firiii}^ to serve nic in i\(jy iiiiiiim.r in his power; and his whole conduct suOicuntly
i\int'itl iIk sincerity olhisdllus.
It was nut ut ni)(»n l»y sonn lioinsulun ui landed in .Minid.i, but the fatif^'uc I had
tnu!u|;<)nc' prtvcnttd my havinf; any inc linatinn to bcj^ln my rcrjcarchcH thai day ; and
'111 loljowiiii; iiii;ht 1 sUpt ill till hark, wliitli had hciii drawn on sli'in ; my diliviTtr
(lor so I m..\ justly call the f^ood pi it si (;l (his i«.!.,iid) !n\i:ijr sent mc a mattress and a
covirltt to dil'tiul me from tin nini-,turi. ol the nif;lit, as 1 was too much fatigued to
ascend to his habitation, which was situated hilf w.ij up ihc mountainous island, lie
likewise h(»spiiabl\ inxitnl me to share with him \\\c provisions of his frugal lalile, and
>oiiK bottles oi cxcelleiit nialmsc) of Lipari, which revived m) spirits and restored my
"«lrengih.
1 !( ni,.iii(d at AIi( lula two days (the 11th and loth of October) during which I sufTi-
rl^iitl\ gratifud \\\\ euiiosit), and aKjiiind a satisfu tor)- knowKdge of the nature ol
tlu iMand. 'I'lie observation of tin ancient (iri-cian philosopher is well known, w ho hav-
ing In eu driven by a tempest on the coast of Rhodes, and with great ililhculty reached
the l.iiid, seeing certain geometries, 1 lijnires traei il in the sands, immediately exclaimed,
I ptrtene the vtstiges ol nu n ; I, in hke maniu r, ilu moment Isitluoton the shore of
Aheuda ami siii\i}ed it, mi};ht li.ive eAclaiiiitd, I pt rcei\e the vestiges of fire. These
Wire the puniiiis, glassis, and eiuimels, w hieh preseiitnl tlu msebes t)my view on the
skirts and sidi s cf Ali.iula, aiitl which it is nniK ( cs^.ii) particularly to (U scribe, since
till) eiitih 1) reseinbiv those of I'eiieuda, aiidare Ibuiul like diiin mingled with tulace-
ous substances.
Ol the twodays whicli I allotted to ni\ i\ searches in Alicuda, I set apart the first to
CAamine its eircuinfen nee b) .-.i.i, '!it iiij^ht prv.-c» liiiig ilie Mill of O'tobei having been
.suiiici*. nil) I aim to |h i mil me to ;naki ilie i ii\ uii of it in in) Ijoal wuhoul ilaiigi r.
I shall lure, ihentoiv , specif) ti;. piaiu ii>il products I discovered during my circuit
round the slirjii' of tile island, this be.i;;' lie part wliiv h, more than aii) other, must in-
terest the pliilosopliiial nalnralist. I s.'i.ili Mot name tin- pl.iccs win re I found thtiu, since
two of the inhabitants who. iceoinpaiiiul me were unable to a'-sign any nanus b) wliich
they were known; the diilerent parts oi ilie shore of the island having in fact no li.\ed
nanus: 1 sluiU only indicate tliiif distances from tin place whence I set out.
At the elislanccul forty paces from thai part ol the island which fronts the- cast, wc
begin to find, us we turn ttnvards the nortli, entire ro> ks I'ornud ol globes of a bi.xkisli
lava, wilh a petrosiliteoiis base, wliich, thoii-h p(jrous, is hea\) from the compactness
of the solid parts, which have a little hislri, ..le vii\ had, and in llieir fractures all'ect
the coiichoitlal figure ; they move the magni'ic iieei'le at tin distance of more lli m a line,
and give s|)arks tolerably freely w lih sK el. Tlu petrosilieeous substance contains a few
feltsj-ars, and a considemljle nniniier ol shoeris. 'I'liesc s^'lobcs of lava arc of various
si;2eb, some of tiiein being a loot in diameter. Tliiy are detached, and arc never found
in strata, Imt only in Lirge accumulated heaps.
To wh;it cause can we ascribe the division of this livi, and its ronformution in the
manner tiescribed? I at fir.t imagined that iis figure ini-ii' !;;• '.he conseipicnce of die
iigitation of thcsca, when iis waters reached to a greater height; as iJiej>e accumulations
IN iiu. Mvo SKitir;;.
2Jo
\\ irnu St
^^ uli till'
It lt<i I
I t(» tlic
(si^taiicc
iliiv, (if
!»( ii lUly
lie I h.id
:i) ; and
Klivcrir
ss atul a
igiittl lo
ul. Ik
il)Ir, and
Olid my
1 ! sufTi-
UltlltV ot
\\u> hav.
nat'licd
clainitd,
sliorc of
Tlitsc
iv oil the
)(.', since
I tutiicc-
(. first to
iii^ been
■rr.
y circiiiL
nust ill-
Ill, .siiia;
> u;ii;li
no lixtd
.ast, \\c
ji.ickisli
pactULss
-s all'cct
nil line,
us a few
various
-T iouiid
1 in the
. of the
ulations
iI'^IoIks ail' now somf* polis al)'.\c i'^ l( m|. In fict, in my m iriiinic im nr.ionN n Uiid
the ollur l''.()liati islt.s, and at Mini, I h i\i fri'|iuutl_\ im i o 'iMsi*!!! ill\ with similar hill-*
uf lava, Avhidi ( li arly iiulii at< d that tin) Ind heeit rDniidid l)\ luin^ conMnnally rolK il
l)\ llie NvaMsolilu' M a, in the sanu' niaiuur as we find sfoi'ts loui.d' il in rivirs. In tin
eoniM; of this \m irk I Iuim' addnciil mmimI i ••Minidisorihi^ kind, < vi ii aiiionj^tlu' )a;lasses
and inamils of Lijini, uhi(h ha\e t;iktii a ijlohov fij^nii'. lint i more careful exami-
tiatitmofthise (.loin scompelkd mi toclianjje m} opinion, onc<in-.iilirin;;;tliat the pieccM
of lava that lia\e a(i|niudaii orl/unlar form I'loin tin. afrifation of the wati rs, are ilway ">
more (jr UsssiikjoiIi on tht ir snrfaei ; wlitnas these wire ron;;li all rf<nnil; tli(jii^;h
till ir roufijhniss, consisting in p;< n< ral of minute partsand points, must hive Ixi'n worn
awa\ by ruhliin;.^ at^aiiisit an\ ohstacle. I ol)strved besides that tliesc globes in man)
places had a shiinnjf anfl scoriaceoiis appiaiaiK'e, extriimly simihr to that of the pieces
ol lava incissanllv thrown out by the volcano of S;romboli. I am therefore rather ot
opinion that tht y are puces of lava that have betn thrown out from a volcano in All
cuda, and taken a spherical form in the air, from lluir great soft ncas, assimil.ir i)!ieno
mciia ma\ be (jbser\ed in the |)roducts of other burniny^ mountains.
About a mile and a hall beyond the lava uo\\ deseribvd, pnjceedinp;" ?itill towards the
north, we (ind a second, nut inghibes, but in an ample current, \\lii< h falls like a cata-
ract into till' sea. It is of a petrosili« t ous base, has the colour ol iron, is siliceous, or
rather vitreous in the I'ncture, and full of sIiohLickjus eryst.illi/.aiions. \\ li<KVcr has
seen lavas which have lately issued from ilu mouth of a volcaiKi, would imagine this of
extremely recent date. On the surlace it preserves that sliining aspect, that fiishness,
which is peculiar to Livas that have not jet bien exposed lo the influ' nces of the atmo-
sphere. The specimeiisof it which I detai hed, mi^h'. be taken lor that seoria of iron
which we llnd in the shops where that metal is labricaled. I luiM in my possession some
pieces of the lava which was thrown Iroin the highest crater of l''.tivi in 1787, which I
collected on the spot, and have described elsewhere. * These, with resi)ect lo the fresh-
ness of their appearance, are not distinguishatjle from the l.iva of which I now speak.
Yet is the latter of an antKiuiiy biNond our knoukdge, for wv have no record of any
conflagration in Alicnda since history has been wriiten. I ha\i chosi n to speak more
at length on this peculiar property of the present la\a, to prove, or rather to connnu
what 1 ha'c already proved, how uncertain are all conclusions relative to the greater or
less anti(juity of lavas, derived from the more or less sensible degree of dicompositiim
which ihey nuinifest. Such conclusions may be wellfoimded, when the lavas are of the
same nature, and aHec'ed b} the same intrinsic cireunisianees ; since tlkn those of a
more ancient date must be most changed by time : but n hire their nature and cpialities
an- dillirtnt, out la\a mav be consideniblv alten'Tl in a lew vears, and e\en reduced to
an earlli, while anoth'.r shall rem.iin for ages perfectly preserved, and in the same state
in which it was thrown out of the lire, ol which the lava now described is an evident
example.
At the distance of another full mile from the place win nee I took my departure, the
mountaintiuscoa:>t of tin island becomes somewhat more level ; and on this plain arise
dctacheil iiKissesof porj)hyry, which shew no signs of h.ving been tonciied, much less
fused, by the firi;. It is of a petrosi.iceous base, of the C(;lour of l)riek, allords sparks
with steel, and is extremely compact, and without pores, e>:ce|)t a lev sup. rticial vacui-
ties, coaie(.l with a thin white crust of carbonate of lime, someiinus studded with crys-
tals of the same kind. These small geodes, which liave been produced without doubt
• Six Cluvp. VIII.
•T' », I LAS.ANi a inwtf
\)\ filtntioti, ATC tK'cnmpr.st'd it\ a lew mnmint'* !»y tlic trnrir, i\ai\, and dissnlvr with i
•tVotv^j lUrvc src im-. 'I'liis prirphyn , ii» its InrdiKss, polish, and liisfn , i>, not inferior
K) thi' l''.|:ypM:ii). lksidc'>> shocils, it ('()iit;iinh luituiruus cubicul laniLllar I'lltHpar^, uIh
ohanRiahli- \\hitrnis*'.
\\'luii iNi)(is;d to tijc fiirnarc for a H w hf>urs it I)tToints Mack, and aftir a lonpcT
tinv fiisi s into a l>tuk, rntnp.u t. isnd vt n snioolli i iianiil, which m ts in motion the nui^;-
ntlic nt».(l!i', ihonj^^h it prochmd no smh ill-ct whui it was poiph)r}. The rtUhpar.-*
rcMiiaiiu luire.
In this jn'.rt »irmy rin nit round ATk iid.i I hive dt scrihid two kinds ctf lavas, the oiv*
loin-.d indi tat hdl !,'|(i!)nks, andlhe f)'lur in a enrrenl ; whirh, ho\\».ver, I'roni the inden
tity oj'ih' ir natnn-, may be ( onsiJin (! as one only ; hoth ha\in>^ lor tluir base llie pc-
U'f).">ilo\, ;tnd eoutaininii; shoerls ami I' Itspars : tlu y are therefore both porph\ ritic. AncJ
.IS lliv rrjek last di scriljtd is a p''ipli}r> ^^itli a p< trosjliitons base, it appears that thcv
all liiree dirive iln ir ori|^in I'roni on* enmnion niauis, eseipt ilial one poriit)U of it has
'xen suljeeted to fiision, atid theotlKr r(inain«"d initonc hcd.
A little l):\"nd tlu pi tin ab(i\e-nutnioned appear sonu tnfai, whicli cover alon^i^and
stii pdeeli\ity ikseendiii)^^ into the si a, and luNond the tnl'as we attain meet with lavaii
forn»ini.;!)road enrrents. These lavas have the lujrn-stone for Uieir base,an(l their ex-
leriia! elurafjieristies art the followinjj;:
TIkv are lif;ht, i>:trcniel} porous, and tin n fore easily penetrable by : they
witli ditlieuUy |:ive sparks >vith sii el, whieh bn aks olV Iragnients at every stroke. They
feel roiij^h inidu* the lin^ir, and emit an ar}^illae».ons «)donr. They contain numerous
t'eltspars, whi( h arc conspienons from tlu ir w hiteness, on a ilark red fj;roimd ajiproachiug
to a black. Sunie sluwa di;,nie of ealcin.ition whielitluy have suiVend in the lire, and
are in eonsefpience easily crumbled. Otiurs h.ive snilered no injury ; and the differ
eiH c obsirv.ible in them is rather to be ascribed to the {liU'erenee o' the nature of the
fehspars, than to their havinij snIVered a greater di.s^ree of heat, the lava in which they
arc bodi inciaporatul appearin;^to have been etpially allietcd by that agent.
Alienda is about sis miks ineireuit, and 1 have as yit made the tour of only the one
half. On completing it, however 1 only met u ith lavas of the same kind with those
already described, diversilied by a few varleTK s that do not merit a particular description.
I have };iven some laint sketches of the ap|)earanee of the lavas in some parts of this
ibland; but it \\oidd be imjHJssible for me to niveau aik(]uati idea of the fearhd wild
ness of the scenes which present themselvis to the eye lor two-thirds of this circuit.
Amonj; all tiic volcanized places I have visited, I ha\e yi i seen none so convulsed by
subterranean fires, so torn and shattered, and so filled v.ith accumuiuted ruins by ihc
dc\ astations of time and the sea.
In some places \\x lind a lava extending; for several hundred paces, \vhich has been
broken by the waves in such a manm r as to ibrn> a n)ck surroiuided by the water,
aboundinj^ m craij^i^y clills and preiipieesol a fearfid hei;;;ht.
In others the lava descends pirpendicularly Irom the most elevated summit of the
mountain, and buries itself in the water, surrounded on the sides in projectinc^ crajjjs,
and huge overhanging stones, which threaten every moment to thunder down into the,
deep.
Here Uie lavas do iu)t form one continued body, but are composed of detached and
loose globes, particularly danjjyrons toliiose w Ikj may attempt to ascend the mountain,
as they roll from under anil put in moiijii a gie it ii imot r of others, thus producing a
destructive; stony current, liven ihe large falcons, winch frequent the highest sununits
of this island, if they chance to alight on thc^'.- heaps of round loose stones, will often,
»T^
IN lUr. I wo SICILIL'f
si*. I have myself scTii, l.\ mr)ving our put other-, in molioM, till liiulaiid stoiu s fall ;)l!
logcl)iCr hcailloii^ into tlic b<,;i.
ill iiMol'.jtr j)l;K:cl:i\ns arc fouml, not of ouv kiml alone, liut aionfn.id n»i\iiur <•!
several, piiul in tliv)ulu out on anoilur U) a prodi^if.n-, li< i;^ht , and in many oillicin
tlitrc is nopait uliicli d(ji i not ihnatiii inini'.di.iti' i.ill andinin.
Throu|;li the niidsf, liouiMr, ol iIum; inissh.ipin ro( ks and horrid prn ipicc"* arc
formed, 1 will not say roads or paths, bnl narrou winding;- i^nttcrs, l>y which wc ma>
nscind to ini rtain lui^dit; and ilironKli tlusi' I took my wav, ulun Irfnn time to liini'
I landid from my hoat and ut.nt in si-arciiof tlu lavas I have dis(ril)cd, and cNaniinul
them on llu' spot'. I was ohli^crl, howc\cr, to advance with tin- greatest caution, as to
have made a binKle false step wonid have lueii to have fallen headlong down a precipice.
I could nolliMt recolleel tlu lines r)l Dante, in uhidi hcdeseribes tlie laborious pasM^'.
ovxr the horrid craj;;* and precipices of one i>i the al)ys!>eb of his hell ;
«' r. prosffnuiulo ludollnK" v'm
Tra lir ii iK",;>,'e, « tra rixclii du lo nconlii),
Lo pic h( hxu lu man noii si spi (Im."
" And sUil iilon^llu- loliiary way,
I'|f)Cct■(l^l^J ovir rui ksand p'ti ipin-s,
') he foot witliDUt till' hand no pr(i>5iHSH inadf."
And though thelitii^ue in attain deseendiiu^ to the sea mi.L,'ht he less, thedan|;vr ua--
rqual, if not greater, Irom the unstable and slippery nature of these deceitful places.
Having completed tiie circuit of the shores of Alieuda on the foin'teenth of October,
I appropriated the next day to the examination of tlie interior part of the island. I
could, however, only make my researches in the part which fronts the east and soudi
cast; die remainder beiuf,' inaccessible from the dreadful crags and precipices already
mentioned.
When seen from the sea, on die south-east side, at the distance of two or three miles,
this island has the appearance of an obtuse cone, but with a eonsielerable incavation on
one side. This incavation has no n semblance lo a crater, and on a nearer examination
wc find it is only a lower part of the mountain. In fact, we percei\e no marks of the
mouths of ancient volcanos in the whole einuiit of Ahcuda; either because they have
never existed there, or because all traces of them liave been ellaeed by lime eir some
other destructive agent. I have discovered die appearances of a true crater no where
but in the highest pari of the island, where diere is a hollow, not very deep ineleed, but
about half u mile in circumi'erence ; and I incline to believe it to havi- been a crater,
from finding there a group of lava diverging as from a centre over the body of the
island.
I examined the lavas which cover die sieles of tliis mountainous island, at least where
I could reach them -a ithout danger, in the same maimer diat 1 did those which Ibrm the
base or shore of it. I shall n(»l describe them particularly, as it appears unnecessary,
they generally having the p'trosilex (jr horn-stone for their base, and aboiniding more or
lesi;., as usual, in felisjxirs. Their exte rnal surface is covered with a yellowish ai.d friable
coaling, originating in a beginning decomposition. The deep fractures which we find
i(i many parts of them enabled me to perceive that they must have Houed at diiferent
periods, ibrming beds or strata one above the other, as is fre(iuently observed in other
volcanizcd couniriis.
M. Dolomieu was of opinion that •' Felicuda and Alieuda had once formed a single
conical mountain, which had been opened and separated on one side."
VOL. V.
c e;
i?2("^
TPALLANZANl 3 TnAVELS
Tills is certainly not impossiljlf, but I must sny it ;ii)pc'arsto nic- extremely inip«'obal)lc
li' the sea, f)r any f)tli(T viokiitaj^c at, had cliviilicl thi-. eouieal mountaiii into luoparts.
it is difficult to CDiieeive that no reeoril or tradition should remain of this eonvulsivu se-
paration. On the eontrar}-, ulu n I attentivily examine and consider these two islands,
they have every appearance of Ijeiniij each a (listinci island, like Siroml)oli, Saline, and
the others. Both likewise have on their highest sinrmitsiiu; vestiges ol their primitive
crater, that is, of that which In its eructations has given birth to its resi)eclivc island.
'J'he lavas likewise which have llou(d from these sumr<»ifs, as from central |)oints, and
enlarge and exttnd as they take their course down the sides of die mountain towards
the sea, se ;m dearly to j)r(jv( that each was a compleu' island initsell"; nor can I doubt
but the Trc'icii naturalist, had he visited these islands then. selves, would have been of my
oi)inion. lie only viewed them from the highest jjarf of Saline, that is, at the distance
of five-and-twenty miles from I'elicuda, and livc-anti-thirty from Alicuda. At that dis-
tancc they seem very near to each other; so that M. Dolomieu, judging from app.ear-
ancc, supposes IVIicuda to be only live miles from Alicuda, though it is in reality twice
that 'iinvber. As therefore at Saline they appear to be so little distant from "ach other,
nodiing was more easy than to imagine that they once formed a single mountain, which,
cither I)y eartlujuakes, the violence of the sea, or some oilier unknown cause, had been
broken and divided into two parts, an arm of the sea taking possession of the interme-
diate space.
From the summit of Saline he likewise estim:>ted Alicuda to be onlv twenty miles from
Cefalu, on the coast of Sicily ; and, in fact, .»hen 1 was on the same eminence, these two
places appeared to me to be very near, and Felicuda seemed almost to join to Alicuda ;
yet it is certain (hat the distance between Alicuda and Cefalu exceeds five-and-forty
miles. It is well known that this optical illusion takes place with respect to any object
srcn at a distance, either by land or water. Nothing happens more frequently to the
traveller than to find that two rocks, mountains, or buildings, which when viewed at a
distance he had imagined to be extremely near to each other, and almost to toUv.ii, are
in fact separated by an interval of several miles.
'J'he volcanic materials of rdicuda, as has been already seen in the |)rcccding chapter,
consist of la\'as w iih a horn-stone base, shoerl, and feitsinr ; not to mention pumices,
tufas, and glasses. The latter three products arc likewise found in Alicuda, but Uic
greater part of tiie lavas have the petrosilex for their base.
Notwithstanding these tuo islands exhibit indubitable characters of fire, no signs of it
in a state of activity are at present to b .■ seen. It may indeed be conjectured that some
remains still exist in the internal part!i of Felicuda, from a warm spring, emitiing the
smell of sulphur, which issues from the northern side of a rock, a liule above the level
of the sea.
I shall here collect the notices that have been left us by the ancients relative to Feli-
>:uda and Alicuda, as they are extremely few and briei". We know that their names
were Phcnicnsa and Ericusa (•tuv/.toi/y* and Ef""-'* ) which are said to have the following
derivation: Aristotle, speaking of Plienicus;!, or Feliruda, as it is at present called,
says, " it received that name from its aboundiiig in palm-trees ;" ?'<"*'5' in the genitive
ip«i»"t«f, being the name of that tree in tireek. ^^ Ericusa, or Alicuda, we are told by
tlie author ol the epitome of Stephanas, was so named IVom the erica or heath, which
there grows plentifully. f Sirabo likev, ise informs us that these two islands derive their
In Jlirandis.
■» Eux>!s-ra- ut» t4iv Ak>.!( pn^wv, «?ro fJlb x.ct>x,Uf^f.
IN nir. iwo :.u.ii.H:i
Lt present, hout'vcr, thuujjjli luaili is not wanting in Alicii(l;>.
a siiiL^k iwlni-ti-cc, nor is there ont: to be found in any of tiit
names iVoin plants.* At
Fclicuda does nut aJTord
Eolian isles. , . i »i i „ ,
3ut neither the above-cited anthors, nor any other ancient writers, muke the 1 a;.\
mentionofany conflagrations in these two islands; probably because, thou},diia then
Ume, Stroniboli, Vuleano, and even Lipari ihrev; out Hre, Veheudaand Alieuda :ib w
have seen uas the case with Didyma and Luoninuis, were entirely extnii^'uished.
CHAPTER XIX.
0BSERV\TIONS WHICH HAVE A\ IMMEDIATE RELATION WITH THE VOIX \
Nl/ATION OF THE EOLIAN ISLES IXQUUUES RELATIVE TO THE ORIGIN
Ol- llASALTES.
Methods and instruments proper to raise stony bodies from the bottom of tlie sea surroundingihi
tolianisks....rhe bottom of the channels between Vuleano, Lipan, and bahne, entirely vo.ca-
nic....TIie same ol)servuble of the roots of the Eolian isks below the waier....(.rave and volcanu".
sand in the c! unnel that divides Panaria from Lipari.-./I he rocks ui the mKldle ot the channels
between Saline and Felicuda, and between Fellcuda and Aliciula, ana b^r.us to those ot the same
islands, but proL:iblv primordial....Decisive proofs deduced Irom these cbsevvations, that the
shoerls and crystallized feltspars of the lavas have not been takcMi up by tlu-m when in a luid
state, nor lormed within them at the time of their congelation....C<)nhrmatu.n ol these proots....
The Eolian isles placed in a direct line from east to west....A sunilar dnection observable m
some islands and volcanic mountains in other couutries....Not improbable tliat all the eight t.o-
lian isles were formed at the siane time, and perhaps very auUienly, wuh respect at least to then-
first rudimen'3....Explanation of the cause why islands and burnmi>- nunmiams are somelnnes
produced disposed in a ri,ihtline....Materials of the Eolian isles for the most part porphvntie....
AnaKsis madebv the author, proving that the red Egyptian porphyries have not or their base
the n'etrosilex, biit rather the horn-stone....Inquiry wheth; r llie vitnheat.ons tuiind in such pro-
digious quantities at Vuleano and Lipari, are found in similar quantities in any other volcanic
countries....Uncertaintv of this from the want of accurate mineraloy.ca descriptions ot tlie
creater part of volcano-.. ..The accounts given of them usually general and wonderlul, out bttlc
instructive....Volcanici,iassfoundin Iceland, but by no means in huihcient quantities to lorm
mount;^ins....No notices rf vitrifications in the vokanuu ol the islands ot I'erro, nor m those ol
Norwav and Lapland.. ..Litde or no glass in the volcani/.ed countrus ol Curm.s.y and Hungary
....Nor in the extinguished volcanos of France....The (juaiitity ol vilnluauonsat\ tsuvius and
seviral other i^artsof the Neapolitan territorv, more considerable.. ..Scarceh' any at Mount Etna,
or the volcanie mountains of Padua.... A more extensive tract of pumices tound perh:.p.s m no
part of Europe than in the island ot S.intorine....llus island, however, atlords no glass....C.real
scarcitv of vitrifications in the three other quarters of the gl()be....Conelusioii-. that V ulc.noand
Lii)ari"o<fer a greater al)undance ol glasses than any other volcani/ed part ol the world j but
that Sanlorine exceeds them in the quan.ity ol pumices....Inquiries relative to this scarcity ot
vitrifuations in vokunos, whether burning or exrinct....It seems to proceed less tiom the qua-
lit% of the stones acted on bv the volcanic lire, than from th. ineHicacy ot that i-gent to produce
vitrilication....A successivel'v stronger degree of heat requisite tor a stMiie topasstrom the state
of lava inio pumice, and from that of pumice into perfect glass....Elucidauon ol the cause why
G G 2
Lib. vi.
:>28
j;- A LI..VN?.ANI'5 TRAVELS
some voUanos piociuce pumices, hut not glas.so.'i....Tlif rjimalion of pumices hitherto not at
tainai)lc "m our Juiiia(;cs....l31.uk the natural colour o!' pumices, uliich are rendered white hv ex
lernal cauic ..
Inquiries r lative to I>a3alt< s....'1'iiesc orij^iiKUe in the humid way, when the word hasalt is under-
stood intlie sense in wliich it was used by the ancients....Thc columnar stones which, from their
prismatic configuration, resemble the ha'saltcs of the ancients, originate accordini^ to cin lun-
stances in the humiu or the dry way.... Proofs of liieir origin in the tirv wavin Vulcano and Ft-
li(uda....Nalure, in the fossil kinud'fni, produces cryGt;ih as well l)y the dry wav as by the hu-
mid....Tiiis exemplified in the geiuration of basa!tes'....An al)use of analogy" to conclude from it
one common origin of l)asaltes....Wh. n examined detaclvd, they frr pundN bear no peculiar
character <>'' their origin, which nuist be determined from local circumstances;...In(iuiry whether
basakiform lavas have become such by a sudden condensation w ithin the sea... .Proof which shew,
first, that man\ basaltiform lavas have assimied this symmetrical configuration on coagulation
in die waters of the sea ; secondly, that in others it has taken place onU bv congelation in the
air ; thirdly, ilvat ver>- numerous ia\ as liave i)rovcd refractory to this figure', both within the sea
tuul in Uieair....'i'he property of assuming a i)ris!natic figure appears in many lavas not to de-
pend on their being of a particular species, nor on tin ir compactness and solidity, but on extrin-
sic and adventilious circumstances.. ..These circumstances indicated, with an explanation in
what manner, acrording to their presence or absi nee, lavas frequently assume a prismatic form
in the air, while others remain irregular within the sea.
THE form, size, and structure of the Eolian isles, the different materials of which
tliey are composed, and the primordial rocks from which these arc derived ; the fires
which siill bin n in some, and the phenomena and changes which accompany them ;
with the comparison between the present conflagrations and those of ancient tin'ics, con-
stitute the principal oljjects to be considered in writing the volcanic history of such a
coimtry. And though wc have already employed nine chapters on these sulijects, we
conceive the candid reader will not accuse us of extreme prolixity , both because we
Iiave had to treat ol" seven islands, and because our object was to write the lithology of
this ancient and celebrated country. The present chapter, we flatter ourselves, will, in
like manner, be acceptable to the inquiring naturalist, as it contains various observations
and reflections which have a direct and immediate relation to the deflagrations of the
Kolian isles.
We have already observed and described these islands from the summit to the base,
Avhich buries itself in the waters of the sea. But it was impossible to examine their in-
ternal part in the same manner as the external; though the importance of such an exa-
mination merited that every effort in oiu' power should be exerted to elFect it. It would
be equally interesting and instructive to ascertain tlie nature of the bottom in those facts
of sea which surround these islands, and separate .hem one from the other. I shall
therefore here relate what 1 observed with respect to this subject, and describe the me-
thods and instruments to which I had recourse to make my observations.
Where the depth was not great, 1 fotuid extremely useful the large tongs, mentioned
by Donati,* furnished with strong pincers, fixed to one or more bars, which by means
of a rope may be closed or opened at pleasure, and thus take hoid of and bring up any
substances from the bottom. But where tiie water was deep, I found it more conve-
nient to employ one of those nets which fishermen use to envelope, and tear from the
rocks, coral and other subaqueous bodies. 'I'hese nets I easily procured, as coral is fished
' Sat^'gio sopru la Storiti naturale del Mure AdrLilico. Essay on the Natural History of the Adri-
ft icSei-
IN IHE lV/0 GICILI£3.
^2[t
up on those coasts ; c^f w hidi fishery I shall tr^at lurthcr in a subsequent pait of this
^^^Kmplovin^r, therefore, these two instruments, the followinpj was the result of my oi.-
scrvations, which were not made on pieces tliat lay dctiiehed on the bottom, but on sueii
as formed a coniiimed whole with it, us was evident from the recent appearance ol tin-
fractures where they were broken olf. .,••,. ^ r .11.
In the channels which divide Vuleano from Lipari, and Lipari Irom Sahne, the bot-
torn is entirely volcanic, and affords pnxhu^ts of the same species with the tun shores.
The same is observable of the foot of the islands, which foot in some situations descends
perpcndicularlv ; but in (others lias a considerable declivity, and thus enlar.i;es the eir-
cuit of the island. The pieces of lava which I was here able to detach, did not dities
from those of the shore, which I have already descril,ed.
But at a greater distance between island and island this was not the case. 1 made my
experiments in three different places. The first was between Lipari and Panaria ; but
here, the water being very deep, I did not succeed in my attempts to brins? up any stonv
body from the bed of the sea, but only testaceous and crustaceous animals alive or dead
enveloped in sand and gravel, and forming a species of crust more or less thick. 1 he
sand and gravel, it is to be observed, were volcanic.
The second place in which I made this experiment was between Saline and tcncuau,
and the third between Felicuda and Alicuda, in both instances, at the point ot greatest
distance as nearly as the eye coulJ measure, between the two islands. In each of these
situations, besides drawing up from the bottom portions of the bcfore-mentioned crii .r,
I likewise obtained several stony fragments, which, from the great force it require^ to
separate them, and the recent appearance of their fractures, evidently had an immediate
communication with the solid and rockv bottom. 'I'he whole number ol these fragments,
great and small, was el n : of which four were brought up between l i;hcuda and Ah-
cuda, and seven bet»veeii x.line and l-elicuda. The b;i e of five* of them was a pe-
trosilex almost opaque, affording sparks with steel, c<)n;p:ict, of a grain little scaly, but
fine ; the colour of two of these jiicces was a lightish blue, and that of the three others a
gray. The base of the seven other pi cts was a 'irk grcm horn-stone moderately hard.
None of them differed in their base, und shoerlaceoas and feltspathos. cr\ stallizations,
from several volcanic lavas of the Eolian isles. • r >
These eleven pieces, however, excited in me a strong suspicion that the rocks Irom
which they were detached had not been exp' cd to the action of fire. The particles ot
the petrosilex in them were more eloselv united, had greater hardness, and a more sili-
ceous appearance, than in the same stone of those islands, which has been subjected to
fusion. In like manner, the lavas, of a horn-stenc base usually have somewhat ot a
fibrous nature, and a thinness in their texture • ' A\ is not seen m the stone ol the same
kind. These two rocks, therefore, appeared to me to be in their natural s tate. ^
I consider these experiments as very instructive with regard to the origin anci forma-
tion of these islands. We -ay conclude from them: First, That the part oi the islands
which is buried under the waters of the sea, has suffered the action oi the lire 111 U
same manner with that which is exposed to the eye of the observer. Secondly, 1 iiai
Vuleano, Lipari, and Saline form one continued grouj) of vrjlcanized substances, which,
at first, might probably have one common central eouflagraliou that dividing into three
branches, and affording a passage to three distinct mouths, gave birth to three islands,
• The author must here huvc commUted some mistcikc, as he, immcduaely before said the whole
number of pieces was eleven, und now mentions five and seven. T.
^^^
23U
oI'AI.LANZ/VM
1 n A V f, I.
uliich coiifl;ii>Talion, by auhaltcru and succcss'im' ramilicatioiib, and ejections of new
matters, aftciwards incrcasid in extent. No sciisihli- n nuiin.s, indeed, of snch u fire
arc at prisiut (liseoveral)le in the internal parts ol Saline, nor are any observable in Li-
p;iri, its ulmle ellicaey ajipeariniij to be «'oiiriiied to \'ulcano. Thirdly, That Alienda,
rVlienda, and Salim do not appear to ln\e any volcai^ic er.,nrtiMnication with each other,
at least in the parts that form the bed of the sea, which sepanv s these three islands
froni each other; since those parts, as far as theejc can iHTceivc, shew no si<i;ns of the
action of lire, I'onrtlily, That these three islands, anel i)erhaps likewise Stroniboli, are
siiuate I in tl.e vicinity of analoi^ons bnt |)rinurive rocks the perfect resemblance of the
slioerls and ielts|)ars in these rocks, both in those that h.ive suffered change from the
fnv and those that ha\c not, is a detnonstration that these crystallizations have not been
taken up by the lavas when they (lowed in currents nor formed in them at the time of
their eoj^i^elation.
I'roin the very bcL;;iiining of this work, I have adduced facts of the same nature,
which I ha\e the satisfaction to conlirm hy the present; and which become of the
fj;reater inijiortance, as I have lately read that a naturalist of cniinence inclines to believe
tiiat (he slunrlsof la\as are formed when the latter condense and!)ecome cold, because
tlien the hoi"iiot;eneous molecules separate Ironi the heierf;;.reneons, and unite by
allinily in small crystallized masses. This ini^enious theor} is not only contradicted by
the observation made above, bnt appears to un: not to accord widi the usi.al operations
of nature-. Were it well founded, I can perceive no reason why the shoerls in lavas
should not re-appear after the} have been fused within them in the furnace, and being
removed into a ee)ld jilace, ha\e accpiired their former hardness. Bnt thoui^h 1 made
exiKriments with lire on some thousands of pieces of lava, not one of 'hem re-produced
its shoerls, though many were continue el a lon|r time in a state of fusion, and afterwards
sntVered cjuietly and slowly to eool and eonsohdate ; which two circumstances arc known
to favour the i'ormation of crystallizations. Shoerls were indeed sometimes found in
the lavas, after fusion, wiien eooi( el and hardened; but these had proved refractory to
the: lire, as ap[)eared on exposins., them attain to the furnace detached from the lava.
The eleven pieces otiriuioreriai rrjck brc^ken from the bottom, exhibited in the fur-
nace the same ehanLi,es uiih llieir coiii-;cnerous lavas exposed to the same lire: thefelt-
spiirs, however, reinaiiiCd refractors .
The Lipari islanels extend in ;i rii^ht line from cast to west the distance of about fifty
:iii!es, except that \ iileano makes a small anj^le. Stromboli is the first to the east, and
Aliiuda the last to the west. 'I'his is r-ot the onlv instance of volcanos haviiig produced
islands, or rather mountains, arraii;,ad in a rectilinear direction. We find an example
of this in die Moluccas, which an' the produce of subterranean fires, and placed one be-
yond the oilier m aright line. \\ lien, in 1707, a new island was thrown up by a sub-
marine \olcano, in the Arcliipelaf>;o, near S mtorine, other small islands arose from the
sea near it, to liie nun)I)er e)f sev< .Keen in a right line, formmsr, as it were, a loni^ chain
of biaek and dak rneks, which visiblv increased in Jimensions and heii^ht, and, ap-
prouching each oilur, at length united, and, joining tliat which first arose from the
water, formed one single island. *■
Ane)tlur nKniora!)ie iiisianee of this direction of \olcanic mountains (for islands arc
in f..ei only niount.iins buried in part uneltr water) is the production oi seven lesser
mountains by the eruption oi Vesu\ius in 1760; the account of the formation of which,
V'ullishcri Oijcr. f<;i. •.. i:
IN XlfE TWO siciLir.r..
2.a
IIS of new
iuch 11 flic
bic ill Li-
t Aliciidn,
acli other,
cc islands
}jjns of the
niboli, arc
ncc of the
: from the
L' not bicn
le time of
nc nature,
fne of the
to believe
J, l)ecause
1 unite by
adieted by
operations
Is in lavas
and being
^h 1 mi.de
-produced
aftervards
are known
> found in
fraotory to
le lavu.
in the fur-
): the felt.
about fifty
2 east, and
produced
n example
id one jje-
by a sub-
." from the
loni^ chain
t, and, ap-
; from the
islands arc
ven lesser
1 of which,
as it maN- throw some li-ht on that of the Kolian isles, I shall here give, from the accu-
i-itc #-ili"tinn of iir()fes;.nr Hottis, an ocular witness. , ir -
\n vpl^d .oncnssions of the earth, which where Rlt fifteen nnles rmmd Vesuv.us.
the sides of the finv mounta.n opened in the territory .)t the i-n-^ ^^'^ ^"•^'^' -^ "
ecn voleanos appeared, ei^ht of which were soon alter covered by a t<.iTent oi la .
wh el rushed h ni oneofUu.-m; the other seven renvnn.nt;ent.re, and inccssantl) ju- •
nri -on their months vast cp.antities of i^niited substances, winch, la hng ^In ost -
u^dict.larlv around the volcinos, produced, in the short space ol ^^■;», ^;;> -'. ,^ ^^ ^^^" i*^!
uountains,- of various hei^dUs, disposed in a r.ght hue ^^^7";^,;^,^^^ ;'":'',;/'
noise which acco.npanied them sometimes rcsenibled that of violent thmider a I
others the discharge of u number of cannons. Several ol Uk »^77^^,^ "",;;. ^ , '^
largest, were thrown to the height of nine hundred and sixty feet, and ^'^"^^ «- ; ;
consid -rablc distance from the mouth whence they were thrown. 1 hese ctut u
shook all the neighbouring country, and the roarings oi ^»^%"--f ^i;;;;^^;":. .^ .:^
to the inhabitatus. After the tcn^'- Jay the eruptions ceased and the I) -'^ "^
mountains, gradually cooling, permitted a nearer approach ; wlu-n some ^ ' \^ ^^
have at their summit a cavity resembling an inverted funnel, and others a simple hollow
of greater or less depth. , •»,...,. ,vn inmv
The production of the Eolian isles being anterior to the records ol ,usto.) , c know
not whether this took place at one time, or in d.llercnt periods 1 he '^^^'^^''l
just cited, of the origin of the seven \'esuv.an mountains c early provc-s the P"^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^ «»
iheir being produce^d at the same time. It also proves, that the uho e eight .11.4! tie
formed in ni long space of time, with respect at least to their first rudiments, it luuing
been seen that they have received successive additions. ,
We also evidently perceive that the inflammable substances generative of the Mo-
luccas in Asia, of the chain of islands at Saniorine, of die \ esvuian mountains above
described, and of the Eolian isles, have formed a direct subterranean ^o:.e inconipaiab y
longer than broad. This phenomenon may be explained b) reeurnng to the clel.s and
fissures perpendicular to the horizon, existing in numv pla(:es witlu.uhe earth, as uell a
soft subitancts as in the more durable and solid ; within which eletts should substances
proper for the production of voleanos be found m abundance, and become inflamed,
in separate heaps, burning mountains would arise, in a direct line, and more or less
large, according to the quantity of the ejected matters.
From the particular dJsenptions of the islands of Lipari, we have seen that the com-
bustible substances wlfich have produced them have sometnncs been contained withm
granite, as at Panariaa.u.1 Basiluzzo, but for the most |.at withm rocKS which have for
their base the p-^rosilex, the horn-stone, and the illtspar. Ii likewise a])pears from the
observations made at Stromboli, that, even there these burning substances have their
seat in die horn-stone rock, though, from the size of the island they have produced,
thev must undoubtedlv be buried at an immense depdi. If v.e would snn])li,y the facts
rebtive to the materials of all these islands, we shall find that they are tor the greater
part porphyritic ; as are likewise some of those submarine tracts, apparently not toucheU
bv the fire, and placed among them, as has been shewn aboye.^
\Vh.'n I compared die eftlcts of the furnace on volcanized porphyritic rocks with
those it produces on the natural, I mentioned some red Eg3i>tian porphyries, the base
of which 1 believed to be horn-stone rather than peirosilex, relying on the analyses oj
Ba) en, as related by Delametherie, of an Egyptian porphyry ol the same colour, ana
♦ See tlic Note ut page 82, Chup. XI. in ^vhich I have spoken of the tssentiul chun-cUrs of porphyry
332
.1 ALI.ANZANl^; IR.AVKI..;
similar to those on uliidt I made my CKiHriimtU-,.* But not luvinp; then been able
to analxsf tht'iu IVom want of tinif, I (Uttrniincd to do ii alkrwards, and jjjivc an ac-
count ol' the Rsult, in another j)art ol this work, when I should aijjain liavt: occasion to
speak oliiiis spcciis ol" volcanic rock. 1 shall here ji^ivc this analysis, which alVords a
coulirniaiion that the base ol" tliese' ])e)rjii)\ri(.s is not petrosilex, as they contain map^-
lusia, V, Inch is not lound in that stone. From tliis eircnmstance, and the nature ol
their constituent iniucii)les, their base ouglu rather to be called a horn-stone, of the na-
ture of which it at least participates. '1 his analj tical observation is likewise here very
r,|)poruine, as it is an aelditional proof that 1 have properly called porphyritic thclavas
v\ith a horn-stone base, and containiiijj^ leltspars, which are so numerous in these islands.
The red lis^} ptian porphyries which I analysed are oi" two species : the first has been
already desc ribcd ; tlie second diH'ers only in its colour being of a less lively red, and
in the abundance of its feltspars. It is evident, that to render this experiment accu-
rate the substance of these two stones should be lirst freed from the bhoerls and feltspars
w Inch thev contain.
FIRST SFIXIES.
Sllox, somewhat reddish
Aluminc
Lime
Magnesia
Iron
SECOND SPECIES.
Silcx
Aluminc
Lime
Magnesia
Iron
80
7
3
2
6
81
I- 1
4
4i
Besides tiie porphyritic lavas w ith w hich the Eolian isles abound, we Jiavc seen that
(hey contain threat (juaiuitics of tufas ; and ih ii Suoniboli is elistinguished from the other
islands not only by its volcano, but by the beautiful specnlar iron it affords; andLipari
by its chrysolites and zeolites, but still more by the prodigious quantities of pumices and
glasses which it contains. I cannot, indeed, rcHectem those enormous masses of ' itri-
fications, without renewed wonder; w Inch has been still more increased by the discovery,
b) means of the forceps and coral nets, that these a itridcations are continued from Li-
pari, till they join those of Vulcano, which on the north and north-east side abounds in
pumices, and enamels, and glasses. The vitreous substances, therefore, of this island,
and those of Lipari, which, as has been said, occupy about two-thirds of the latter,
conipe)se an accumulation of glass, not less than fifteen miles in circuit. It is impossible
to attend to this stupendous phenomenon without feeling our curiosity excited to know
whether it be peculiar to these islands, or found likewise in other volcanized countries.
But satisfactorily to answer such a (juestion, it would be reejuisite that we should be ac-
quainted with the volcanic mineralogy of all the volcanos in the world; not only those
at present burning, but those extinguished, which are iiilinitely more numerous ; in the
same maimer as we are with that of \'ivarais and Veluy, the islands of Ponzo, Vesu-
vius, Etna, the Kolian isles, and the mountains of Old-Brisach, by the labours of Fau-
Scc Chap. XI.
i.v I iiL 1 uo r, iciLir.j.
Ij.-.
bccM able
ivc an ac-
iicasion to
1 alVords a
itaiii inap^-
natuic ol
of the na-
licrc very
c the lavas
sc islands,
t has bctn
y red, and
icnt accii-
d 1'cltspar.s
seen that
I the other
ind Lipari
mices and
!s of ' itri-
Jiscovcry,
Irom Li-
bounds in
lis island,
the latter,
mpossibie
1 to know
countries,
uld be ac-
>nly thofiC
is ; ill the
JO, Vesu-
s of Fau-
jas, Giocni, Doiomieu, Dictrieli, and myself. Of such a min(.'nili),i':y, lioucvr, \\<
arc entirely destitute. Tlu' p:reattr p:irt of those uho, litlur by ehaiiei', or from curl'
sity, have viewed buriiinf,^ voleanos, have only dt scribed in the ir relotious the must eom
mon and general phenomena, less iidnptt d to inerease the knowledj^e than to amuse
the imagination of their readers, and i Ncite their wonder. Shoeks and undulations o'
the earth; the sea in commotion, and raging without a tempest; here retiring and
leaving its shores dry, and their imnidating vast tracts of land ; subterranean thunder::,
and roarings in the air above ; the sun disappearing in thick .larkness at noon ; whirl
winds of smoke, ashes, and flame, bursting from the yawnng gulf: burning stont^
hurled towards heaven, and falling in a fiery h:iil ; torrents and rivers of lirpiid lava,
sulphur and bitumen, pouring d(jwn on the vallies below, and carrying terror, desola
tion, and death ; islands, now suddenly produced by submarine eructations, and now
torn from their foundations, and swallow cd up l)y eari'lupKikes ; these eomjjose the usual
descriptions of voleanos, which, though thi?y may not be useless when the iacts arc f;iit!i
fully stated, and not magnified by the imagination of the narnitor ; yet tliey commonlv
want one essential reejuisite : that is, lithologieal descriptions of the bodie's ejected b\
these burning mountains. As glass and pumices, however, arc known even to tliosi
who arc unacquainted with this part of natural science, we may, w ith certainty, or ai
least, with the strongest prooability, conclude, that they arc produced by the volcaiKJS in
lue descriptions of which we find them expressly mentioned as makmg a part e)f the
ejected matters, and that they are not produced w hen not mentioned. Thus in Iceland.
the greater part of which Iceland is only an accumulation of ^oleanos either extinct or
active, it is certain, from the accounts of travellers, that numerous glasses :ire found to
which the name of Icelandic agate has improj)erly been given, only because they have
the lustre and beauty of that stone. The present eruptions of this island, likewise, not
infrequently contain pumices ; but no person h:is e\er asserted that there are entiiv
mountains of these stones, or of glasses.
The islands of Ferro rxe considered as volcanic, and produce the famous zeolites.
mixed as it is said, with lava ; but as yet we know nothing more of them. The mi
nute ac(;ount of each of these seventeen islands jniblished ')y Jacobson Debes, in which
no mention is made of the vitrifications, authorises us to cc -elude they do not exist there.
Norway and Lapland have their voleanos, which from time to time burst forth in
fearful eruptions according to the accounts of Pennant and odicrs, who, how ever, give
us no further information.
Leaving these cold regions, and passing to Germany and Hungary, we find some
tracts of these coimtries that have likewise been subjected to subterranean conflagrations,
which, however, have produced no vitrifications, or scarcely any. " I have sought in
vain the black agate of Iceland, and the true pumice," says the above cited Baron
Dietrich, in his long and circumstantial Memoir relative to the voleanos near Old-
Brisach.
Proceeding to a milder cli'-iiate, and approaching nearer to our own country, wc
find that the extinct voleanos of France aftbrd no purnices or glasses ; which assertion
I can make on the authority of M. Faujas, who has w^ritten so well concerning them,
than which one more unquestionable cannot be adduced.
It is not the same with Italy ; the country in which fire has principally extended its
empire. The Neapolitan territory peculiarly abounds in pumices, enamels, and glasses,
as appears in the islands of Ponza, at Herculaneum, Pompeii, Miseno, Monte Nuovo,
the Rock of Burnt Stones, Procida, Ischia, and the valley of Metelona.^ Even inom-
V'OL. V.
• Sec Chaps. IV, V, VI.
-'.)4
.-.IVVr I.ANKANl'o 1 llAVKr.'i
times \c'i,iiviiir, has cjcctcfl similar bodies ; but wiih aspect lo Ktna, its lircs ranly
produce the slii-htfst viuilication. ^ . . ,
The only i)la(i- in I'.uiopr, wiiich, in the abundance,- of its |)umiccs, can cqnal, or
ncHums surp-.ss Lipari, is the island Santorinc. On this snl)ji.:t uv may consult
Thcvcnot and Tourndort, two inlc IliKci.l iravilUrs, uho at dukunt p*rJods examined
this island, nhidihasnot hitherto, to my kntnvUd^e, been considered by volcaiiisis m
this point of view. , ,, r .1 • i « •
The former, u ho visited Santorine in 1G5:), oI)servcs, that "many of the iiihabi-
tantshve in caves made under the earth, which is . xtiemely h.^hi, andc.sily dui; into,
as it consists entirelv of pnmices." lie alteru aids relates af.ict, which has a particular
relation lo our present subject, since it leaclus us in what manner these liKht stones
may l)e Uirown up, iunnediately by the sea, in volcanic eruptions. His account is as
follows ; . . . • 1 1 1 1 •
" About eiLrhtecn vears a^o, t)n a Sundav ms^ht, a violent noise began lobe heard m
the nort of SantorinJ, uhieh uas likewise 'heard even to Chios, dist.mt mcjre than two
hundred miles, and was ihou^jhl to be occasioned !)y the \'enetian Heel having en^apd
die Turks; in consecpienee of which i^^wM numbers of people -"t upon ti»e hij-iust
i.lacesearlv in the morning to be spectators of the battle ; and I remember the reverend
rather Ik'rnaido, a venerable man, perfectly deserving' credit, to d me he was one
amomr the number of those who were so deceived, imaKiumir they heard a violent can.
nonaeie. Thev could however see nothin.^^ In fut, this noise was e-auseel by a lire
kindled in the'earth, under the luirbour, the eifect of which was, tluit Irom the morn-
intr to the eveiruur a vast (luanlitv of pumices n^se from the botu.m o the- se a, with sudt
violence and noi^e as to resemble- repeated discharj^rs of cannon and so mtecied die air
that several persons died at Santorine, and many lost their sight, which they did not
recover till se'me daN s after. This infection extended as lar as the noise which had pre
ceded it had been heard ; since not only in this island, but at Chios and Smyrna, all the
silver became red, whether kept in colUrs or in die pocket ; and the rehmious who re-
sided there told me that all their chalices became red. Alter some days the mfeciion
ceased, and die silver returned lo its former colour. .,,.,. ,
"The pumices which were thrown up covered the Archipelago m such a manner,
Unit for SOUK- time, nn hen certain w inds prevailed, the Inirbours were so blocked with
them, diat not even the smallest vessels could get out till u way was made for them by
removing the pumices with long poles, and they are still seen scattered over the whole
Mediterranean, though in a small quantity."* , ^ . n t
Tournefort, after having remarked from Herodotus that Santorinc was once called
K«XM„ or " the most beautiful island," adds, that " its ancient inhabitants would not
at pre Lent know it, since it is covered wuh pumices, or, more properly, is a mine oi
those stones, which may be cut into great scpiare blocks, as other stones arc cut m the
quarries." I" .... • m • • •*
According todiis traveller and to Thevenot, Santorincis thirty six mdcs in circuit ;
whence it appears what a prenligions accumulation of pumices diere must be m this
island and the aeljacent sea. It n;e. its notice, hox^ ever, that neither these two travellers,
nor others who have written of Santorine, make the least mention o glasses of any
kind ; we may therefore venture to allirm that the subterraneous fires have there never
'''Tf '\vom Kurope we pass to the three other quarters of the globe, we shall find in
•aeha great number of volcanos, which it would be superfluous to enumerate parlicu.
• Voyagfs dr M. elc Thcvcnot, Prcm. Part. t Voyage du Levant
IN rui'. 1 v\ 0 jti n^lbti.
j2.V.
!s raroly
t|ti;il, or
COUMlll
uiiisis ill
iiiliahi-
lui; into,
articular
It stones
Lint is as
heard in
lliaii two
cn}^aij;ixl
: hi^lu St
riVLrcnd
was one
K nt cuii-
l)V a lire
ic nmrn-
\ itl\ such
.d tlic air
• did uot
I had pre-
la, all the
i who re-
infcciion
I manner,
kcd with
them by
the whole
icc called
vould not
a mine oi
cut in the
n circuit ;
t)C in this
travellers,
es of any
lere never
all find in
;e particu-
larly, such an cnunu ratinn havJiif; alrcaily bctn made by Vaiijas, liuHon and other*. 1
shall only mention lho.-.e whiihallord i^roducts that have relation to our present subject,
Wcread that the inland ol'lVriiiite in Asia throws out a ronsidera!)lr quantify o|' pu
miees.asdoes likewise one of the numerous volcanos ol Kamsehatka.
As to those of Africa, we have but very imperfect accounts of them, \nth the siiikI'
exception of the peak of Teneriile, one (jf the loftiest of volcanos ; which, with n-spect
to its situation, height, form, and crater, and the hot fumes which issue from it, Iw-
been accurately described by die chexaliir Horda. Hut it were to be wisher! that we
had a more complete description of the materials of which it is composed ; as the Trench
traveller only tells us that they arc '• sand, black and red cal<;ined stones, pumices, and
flintsofdiflerent kinds."* .
It admits of no doubt that the hi|;hcst mountains of America, as Chimboraco, Coltn
paxi, Sanj<ai, Pichencha, &c. form a chain (jf burning volcanos, the lar!i;est existing in
nature. Wc are indebted for the accounts we have of thetn to M. Boui,'uer ; but these
arc such as only tend strongly to excite our curiosity without gratifying it. With n.spect
to what relates to ouri)resenl iiupiiry, we only learn from this writer, that " some moun
tains in the vicinitv of Quito are composed entirely to a great depth of scori;e, pumices,
and fragments of burnt stones of every size."|- As to volcanic glasses, he does not
make the slightest mention of diem; though it is well known that the famous galliiu
ceoiis stone, which is universally acknou ledgcd to l)e a most beautiful Amei;ieat) volcanic
glass, of a black coiour, is found in Peru, and that, according to M, Godin, there is a
mine of it, several days journey from Quit(\
If wc now consider those parts of these imperfect accounts which relate to glasses and
pumices wc shall find, with respect to the fornu r, that the timch greater part of volca-
nos produce none, and that those which do produce them, as in the Neapolitan territory,
Iceland, and Peru, arc by no means to be compared in this respect widi Lipari and Vub
cano. The same may be asserted of Alicuda and Felicuda, the glasses of which, though
abundant in many parts of those islands, are only found in Hakes and fragments. These
observations might likewise be applied to the jximiees, did not the immense cjuantity
of them in the island of Santorinc equal if not exceed, that of the two Eolian islands
above mentioned.
If we consider the volcanos known to us under one general point of view, we shall
find that, though they have changed into lavas an infinity of rocks, by which they have
produced mountains'and islands very considerable both in numlxr ai:d dimensions, it
is very rarely th.at they vitrify die substances exposed to their fires. Uaiecting on the
immense quantities of vitrifications at Vulcano and Lipari, which are almost all derived
from fehspars and petrosikx, the idea suggested itself to my mind, whether so great an
abundance in these two places, and so great a scarcity in others, might not be attributed
to these stones being here extremely abundant, and very rare elsew lierc. But this sup-
position does not accord with fact ; as wc have se( n in many other volcanic tracts,
which I have described, and shall describe when I come to speak of the Euganeaii
mountains, that both these stones may be changed into lava without that lava exhibiting
the slightest a|)pearance of glass. On the other hand, we have shewn that, besides felt-
spar and pctrosilex, many pumices have for their base the horn-stone and asbestus, and
many granite, as M. Dolomicu has observed. I am therefore of opinion, that the cause
which has produced them should rather be sought in the volcanic fire, which rarely has
suflicient activity to vitrify the stones and rocks on which it exerts its power ; though I
Vovage en diverse Parties dc I'Europe.
H II 2
t Acad. Royulc dcs Scicnccij, 1774.
Uu6
- r ,\ I. ; V N /. \ N I
1 a A \ 1 1
gr:ii\t that tl\i laiioiiiux and luisnar arc inori' adapted to iliii xuiifir.uion iliaii (>tlKi
stoius. 'I'll produce a lava, a ci-ilaiu di^Tic ol'Iiiat is iK(:cs«».»n ; and a siill i^italir tf
ctnivcri it into |)imii(H'. 'I'lu lavas, at hast those ol the compact species, tisuall\ pr«.
serve the fj;raiii, haidiuss, and soineiiines the\\\ijj;ht and ((dour of the primordial rociv ;
but the fjfreater part ol' these external iiialiiic. dis ipp^ ar in the punu'c. Irom die sfioiif;ei
u ti'JiioC the liie. 'I'hi^ nuisl operate still more in|;li-s, in \\hich the h'^nioj^ineity ;i,id
fineness dI the paste eftact ( \eiy traci: of its priiniti\e textnre.
'J'hesc njradiial transition-. (^f l.tva into pnndte, and pumice into ijass, I ha\e si\cral
times obser'.cd, and inili ( d ha\e aln ad\ descriln d. in tin same volcanic pi(«f. It has
\lso hi ell ohsirved, that a lava Irc'inenily passes inimediat(.l\ into pirl'ect i^lass, uhich
must he caused by a sudden heat, greater than that ri.()uired to chin}j;e it into pumice.
I'his theory satislactorily e:;plains uhy some wilcanos j»rodnce |)umices, but in ver glass;
IS n\a\ be remarked ol Santorine. 'I'heir lires are only sullieiently ix-wirful to (gene-
rate pumices, but :»ot to jiroducc >,dass ; an observation applical>le to the prodigious
.rnption from the sea described by Thevenot. On the contrary, at Kotaro in Ischia, at
V'esinins, and other parts ol" the IM»legr;ean l-'ields, as also at VuU-ano, Lipafi, Felicuda,
mtl Alicuda, f;lasses are foinid mixed with lavas; which shews tint the fire has acted
!me(iually in those |)laces. It is to l)e remarked, at the same time, t'nt the heat rcqui-
lilelor vitrification is not of the most violent kind, as I have shewn i. Chap. XVI.
Wc must however oliserve, that as the production of compact lavas is a secret which
iialuie has hitherto reserved to herself; since we a^e unable to imitate them with our
ommon fires; so also are wc ignorant of the precise causes of the form ition ofpumi-
■es. Amon.L!;s()me thousands of fusions which I have made in the furnace, both of la-
■\asandpiimordial rocksand stones, those likewise from which pumices are most frc-
'jucnilj ijroihued as petrosilices and leltspars, I nevir o!)t.iined a product which could
be said to possess all the characteristics (if pumice. It has always bmi either a glass,
in enamel, orscoriiu ; nor do I remember to lune read or heard, thai among the innu-
merable experiments w Inch chemists h;ive made ujjon earths willi lire, die result ever
was a true ;)umice: and though in lime-furnaces we may frcipieiuly observe a change
if certain stones into glass; yet they never produce lavas similar to the volcanic ; and
e(|ually incapable are ti^y to form puniices. It cannot be alliged that the lire of our
furnaces i, too strong to induce that slight degree of vitrification which chancterizes
pumices ; since, w hen I lia\ e used a more moderate fire, the substances on u hich I made
my exjjcriments ha\e eidier not melted, or been more or less vitrified.
I shall e(;nclude these observations (jii the pumices of Lipari with a remark relative to
:!ieir colour, i'lxeept a few that are dark, they are all white as snow. Hence the moun-
tain of Lipari, which forms the great magazine of these stones, is called Campo Bianco
ahe White I'ields:) but certainly there must have been a time when it should have been
iU nominated Campo Nenj (the Black Field;) at least it is certain that pumices when
Jiewly ejected iiom volcanos are of a black colour. This remark, which has been omitted
by almost all who have made cjbservations on this subject, who content themselves wiUi
saying tiiat this or tiie other -, olcano throw s out pumices, has been expressly made b)
Don Gaerieno de Bottis in his " History of the Conflagrations of \'esuvius."* lie
tells us, die pumices ejected at various periods by this volc;"'.o are black. He likewise
remarks, tiiai on comparing them w iih Uiose wliich overwhelmed Pompeii, he found
them perfectly similar in their structure. Their whiteness, was subscrpicntly acquired,
and probabl}' was caused by the impressions of the atmosphere.
' IsiurUi (!i v;',rj Incciidj di! Vvfjinio.
IN II. f. I'V, M ,11 i (. U...
II) (<tllv I
laUT til
lly pa-
;il I'Di !k ;
sti'Hif;ci
lity ;i.i(l
1- -.1 vcr.ii
It has
, ulucl)
pumice.
I r glass;
(Klijj;i()us
schia, at
"clicucla,
las acted
It rcqui'
VI.
ct which
w iih our
olpunii-
lli of la-
uost (rc-
ch could
I gluhs»
ihc intui.
■suit ever
u change
uic ; and
le of our
r;'Cterizes
•h I made
elative to
;e nioun-
)o Bianco
lave been
ces when
n omitted
:lveswitl)
made b)
1."* He
: likewise
he found
acquired,
Befdfo I roll' ihiU thi M ()!»:iir\ ilions ontht {".ojian i -I s, I iluii'» it ndiss ry in iiy a
Ivw \\or(Uoiia sulijvft which has artlation Joiin. pidducti juh ul' \ ulcanoancl .Mi''i|»t:t,
and oil which the opinions of modern natiirahsts are divided ; I lucan the b isaitirDi'itt
lavas whii'h art found wllliin the <r iter ol' th'- lormrr isliiid, aiul.ilon;; i!i« slion »of t!i •
latter, ' and wliich b\ thi ir conformation (M:ii\ot but remind ihi r».adt r of tho in'|iiiriosand
disputes uhidi ha\t: taken place uithin these l«. w years relative tfi tlu' origin f)l b.isaltcs.
To repeat all th it has been written on thv subjci t unnld fill aMiluine: but lamfu'frrnii
purposini; to tire ciilur my own or tir.; rcadt r's patirnce in any such ii\aniur. If, bc^iils,
appears to mi- tlu-.l this l(»np; agitatid (pnstion may, at present, be dettrmincd \\ illrnit
any very prolix augmentation. Literary disputes and dilfertnees orcjpuiion lV((|nentlv
arise from want of previously fi\ingthe slate of the eo:itrover>\' ; that is, from not de-
lining in precise and clear terms llu' thing in question. Before we inquire what is the
origin of basaltes, that is to say, whether they are the' result of the aciif)n of fne or vva
ter, it will be jiroper to decide what we mean by the term : or rather what the ancients
understood I)) this word, which is the name they gave to a certain kind of stones. It is
now ginerallv known, because it has been repeated by a hundred writers, though per-
haps by the greater part without due consideration, that the word basaltes is usetl by
Pliny and Strabo to denominate an opatiueand solid stone, of tin- hardness, and nearly
of the colour of iron, commonly configurated in prisms, and originally brouji^ht from
Ethiopia ; of whieh stone the I''.gyptians made statues, sarcophagi, mortars, and various
utensils. This premised, it remains to intpiirc whether this stone was of volcanic origin
or not, by repairing to the places where it was found, and attentively examining the
country todiscover whether it bears die characteristics of volcanij^ati(jn. This labour
however has not, to my knowledge, been hitherto undertaken by any one ; but M. I)o-
lomieu, to whom lytlnjlogy and the history of volcanos art so much indebted, has dis-
covered, during his sta) at Kome.an equivalent, in some measure, with respect to the
solution of this (jnesti(^n. Among the m^ny noble monuments in that suj)eri) capital
which arc; iii'^tructive not only to the admirers of the arts, but to the eonteinplators of
nature, are .i great numljcr of statues, sarcophagi, and mortars brought from Egypt,
uhich have ill the characters attributed to basaltes, and likewise preserve the name.
These lie has studied with the greatest attention, and declrres that the stone of which
they are formed manifests no sign of the action of lire. Among otiu r Egyptian monu-
ments, he observed some of a green basaltes, vvhi(-h change colour, and assume a brown
tinge, similar to that of bronze, on being exposed to the slightest lieat. All those that
have been burned have aecpiired this colour ; w hich proves, as he very judiciously ob-
serves, that the green basaltes have never suft'ered the action of lire. i
The Egyptian stones, therefore, to which tlie ancients gave the appellation of basaltes,
have been produced by nature in the humid way. These observations perfectly agree
with those oi Bergmann on the trap; s produced in the same way ; and which have, both
externally and internally, the same characteristics with the basaltes..'}:
Werner, taking the tL'rnx basaltes in a ^vider sense, and understanding !)}■ it all those
columnar stones which, by their prismatic conliguration, resemble die Egyptian ba-
saltes, supposes both to have the same origin, and adduces as a proof of that origin, the
basaltes of the hill of Scheibenberg, which are the effect of a precipitation by means of
water; and concludes that "all basaltes are formed in the humid way."|!
Though I am willing to bestow the praise due to his discovery, I cannot admit his
conclusion ; for though many basaltes, taking that term in the sense of this author and
• SccCluips. XIII, ;vnd XV^Il.
\ Do Pruductis Vulcimicis.
t Rozitr, torn, xxxvii. an. 1790.
II Rozicr, torn, xxxviii.an. 17-u
231
»l'iltANZ.\Kr!< 1 ItAVI I.:
otiur tialiir.ili-jli, ni.i\ (Icrivi: ihtir oiij^iu IVom \v;»tir, niiinv otluri aie nrtaiulj tin pro
duel nl liii'.
I vicill not ro|)t:it uliiit \aiit>ti% Vfjlcani^tsluivr wriiUii nu this sul>j'(t, hut tncnly rf-
fir till' r(.a(K r lo uh.it I iiavi' aliiady said irl.iti\( to tlic IkiviImiu' l.iv.i-* f»f \'iilc.ii)(» and
riliciida. >\'id» irs|ui't to ll«' lurnu r island, I h.i\i' ninarktd in Chap. XIII, tliai I
i'onnd v\ithin its cnih r a ranj^c ol' .irtirithtt d prisms, \v idi itix (|m.iI sides and an^^U's,
whiih in p:iri ccinposid oni' wholi- uiih a mass ol lava; and, in p.>rt, were dctacihcd
from it, I hiM- also ihi n* dcscrilKd thi' «pi i!itik.!i und nainn' of thrsc prisms. In
Chap. W'll, I hivr pariic;idarly dv,s»ri!ji.d ih*.- liiiorallavasofKclicuda, which, mar tht>
\\;iti r, arc prisnuitic.
It IS thircl'oiv t\idi'nt, that in thrsc two situiiious tlic orifm of thi* hasaltis thirc
found cannot Ijc what it IuisIklh assuimd j^iikmIIv, by NWriKr and othir rurmaiis, hii
that it is truly volcanic. Ii coiisi 'piniily appears ih .1 nature oljtains the same eflrcctii
\)\ two ditlinnl ways. In the fossil kingdom, one of ht r j^r.ind opi rations is crystal*
ii;('..ititiii ; whirl), thoii);h it he most irvrpietttl) t Dected in the humid way, is soinetimcit
product il in tlu dry ; as wv hce, anion},' other instances in iron, whi( h nature crystallizch
within the earth, holh hy the means of watt rami of fire, in which latter way the beauti-
fid specular iron ol Siroml)t)li is produicd.* Nor are there wanting; oilur instances, of
the cr\stalli2atinn ol the same mitalby the action of (ire. .Vntl ilid other metals exist
in the entrails of volcanos, and the necissary circumstances concur to their crystalliza-
tion, it isindnl)it>.ltle that this iMay be ( iVnti d by lire as well as by waKr. Thus wc '-ee
that, b\ takiiii; cirtain piK autions, nu lallic sulistaiices assume a rej^nlar and symiii^-
triial disposition within the criicibli'. The same is true of basalles, the prismatic con-
fi};uiation of wliii h, ttioui^h not strictly a crystal!i?.ation, has the most c s.ici resemblance
to it. Obsi rvatidii likewiM teaches us that thi. same combination of earths, accordinjj
to ditVci' nt ( ireuinst:aii'es, tonus priMiiatic b isalli s, sometimes in tlu' humid, and soiue*
times in llie ili) \\\\y. 'i'iie stone called tr.ipi), found in the mouniuins of Sweden, is
iionlimirati d in pii^ius, ili.m^h those minuitanisarc of aipuous oii^^in ; and tlu- hmn.
btone, whii h is so aniilo.;oMs to the trapp, iuis the same conlij.!;uration at IMiiauKi, not-
witlist .luliu,^ it is a iiu< lava. In the same ishi;d, likewise, other basaltilorm lavas li.i.c
for their base shoerl ii. mass, ami those of the crater of \'uK;ano, the |)etro:,i!ex ; whi.;h
two stoms, ac' or(lia;j; to tin obsi rv I'ions of M. Dolomieu, l.)rm some of tlie l''.;;yp'i..il
Ixisalles, nhicliare a woik of the w.i;rrs. Tlu se t\eo af^enls, fire and wati , are n )t, in
fact, so dilKreiU inthcir aition as we mij^ht at first be incii:ied to imaf^iiie. 'i'ne pris-
iriatic fij^Mwe in the hnmid way arises in tlie soft eirth bv the evaporation of the witer;
in eoiiSKjuenee of w hi. h the parts dry, contract their volume, and split into pulM;<)iial
pieces. 'I'he SiUne j>iK nonu iKai ma) be rein;'!'ked in marL^aceous earths, imbiad wjili
water, ami exposed ti; ilie ventilaiion of the air ; and I have fa.piently seen the mud of
rivers, w hen dried in tlie suti in sunnnrr, to nuke i)ottery-\v in , divide, wli.n it I)eca.nc
drv , into small polvetlrotis tal^lets. .Similar coiiliijfuralioMs are produced indnlerent lavas
by the conj^clatioii and couiractiun that lake place by the privation of the fire which hwlj
them in a state of lluiiliiy.
It appears to me, ih-iefore, that die dispute relative to the on{i;in of busaltcs is at an
end; nor would there be any dilference of 0[)inion if, instead of i^eneralivsia.r ideas and
labricatinj; systems, naturalists would make an impartial use of their own observations
and those of others. Some volcanists, perceivin^r that the {.jeneraiion of various basaltcs
is evidently i{;neous, have nuiuediately inferred that all must have the bume origin. Iti
* Sec Chap. XI.
I liF 1 vvn si( rLir.^.
'VI
pro-
lu
ci^nscqiM nrc (A' tli'ii pr'iiHi|i|« , t!uy Imvr ilniuri lines «)r /.nius in (I'lrtiiiiit p.ius of the
SIoIk', ituruutm ol' t ;.iiii( t \oI( MiioN, uliirhiluj Ii.i\t iiilrrrKl I'ntni liinliDi': b.i'.alti-^
u IV I nnd ttui'i p'<iit't''.i\< d a pi<'l(irc' of prddi^imis (litnuiHintii, n [in m iitiii^' tin.' iniiis
caii>cd in ihi- uorld i>y sul)'irr.in«an lonHiirraiions. OiIkt natniMli>is, <mi ihi t'onHi'.ry,
being c'onNJimd lit tJirtain InisiiltiN an- tin pmilut » ul' w.itir, hav iii^:iis>i):;niil to all tlu*
sauu- origin. I'roin tin lacts xt,w a<!dii(\d, n i\ I\(i\m \i.r suIVk iuitly i\i(luil ili.il liolli
tlast li\ potlu MS an irron(i>vi>j. Thi- b.isalti •>, takiiiij; ilu' l< rni };inii.ill), \<liinr,\a-
minitl dctjclii d, do not btiir «. xclusivi ly any ilicisivc marks ol' their ori^^in. Lo( a! cir
cuinstaixx'saloni can di tirininc t'l uliidi nl tlu- two principles il is to be as'Tibtd; to
discover whit li \\v nuisi attt uti\; 1\ i xatnim wliitlur tlu plari s uht re these lif^urtd stones
are lound, exhibit an\ indnbiiabli' sij^iisolvoleanization. Vit e\ en these are tin|iicntly
nut suliicient, as there arc many hills and moinitains uhieh owe their origin to both the
great a^;ents ui nalnre, fire and water ; in which ease it w ill bi necessary to redouble our
attetjtioii, and lix it on the snl)stancesorip;iiwitin}^ from eaeh; to di terniine.by the relations
these have to ihc b.isaltvs, iVom which of the two the latter derive their ibrmation. 11/
diligently employin)^ these nu\n\s, we shall be certain, without Tear of error, to elucidate,
and advance the incjciries nl.itive to basalies, and be enabled accnratily to (Lierminc
tvhich ol them are to be ascribed to the action of water, and whi( h to tliat of lire.
But here a second (juestion occurs, not I. sy inti resting than the fust, rel.itive to thf
cause wh) certain lavas, diflering Irom iitnurui r.ibk others, Incoini basaltiforni ; since,
if this configuration depended on cung< lation, it nnist be louiid in all 1 ivas when lliej had
ceased to flow. The first writtr, to my knowledge, who hasadvertid to this is M. de
Luc, who, in the second volume of his Travels, is of opinion that iluy ha\e taken this
rcguV.tr figure in the sea, by the sudden condensation which took place on their Mowing
into it in a li<piid state ; oUier secondary eircumstantxs, however, concurring, such asu
great homogenity, .md a certain attraction of their |)artH.
Of the same opinion is M. l)f)lomieu ; though he does not deny that even porous
lavas may sometimes likewise take the fotin of prisms. Tiic former of tluse o[)inlons
is little less than hyiiothttic, while iht latter is supported b} f;cis loo important to be
cursorilv stated. M. Dolomieu observes that all the currents of the lavas ol Ktna, the
periods of which are preserved in history, have constantly experiiiiced two efVects in
their congelation. 'I'liose which have cooled in the air have di\i<lid, in consecpienco
of the contraction tluj h.ive sullered by the loss of their caloric (heat) into irregular
masses ; while all the others, v. hich have precipitated into the sea, have, on their sudden
congelation, contracted into a rtgularform, and divided into |)rismatic columns, which
form tJ.cv ha\e only taken in the parts in contact with the water of the sea. Of this
he met with evident proofs ahjiig the shore which extends from Catania to Castello di
Jaci ; and the famous lava of 16()!), though unapt to the |)rismatic form, from being
spongy and little in rpiaiitity, yet in some parts exhibits a kind olriide imperfect prisms.
Among the objects to which I was attentive in my volcanic tiav< Is throng!: tise two
Sicilies, the prismatic lavas were cerlainly not the h;st. \V'hilc making the circuit of
the Eulian islands, of Ktna andof Ischia, I constantly observed carefnll}' the conforma-
tion of the stony currents which lall into the sea. I have renv irked when treating of
Ischia, that this configuration is frequently prismatic, and that the prisms are constantly
formed in those parts of the currents which immergc into the water, and reach to a
few feet above the level. This observation of mine certainly accords admirably with
those of M. Dolomieu; the situation of these prisms clearly showing that they were
formed at the time ol the inmiersion of the lava into the se;;, which, when it flowed, rose
to where they begin to appear. But, though I agree with him iti this I cannot in the
^^
2i0
G 1' \ I, I. A N n A N' 1 8 I n A V E I. 3
rcmuiiuki- ol'inv ol)Si rvations. Alicudii, as uvll as l'\liciid.i, presents us with mimcrous
.ninviUs and nnks thai tkscciid into the sta; and they arc likewise Ibund at Saline,
Linari, Strnniboli, Taiuiria, Basihi/,xo, and Nnlcano; bnt these rocks and currents,
which t.it^ahu- c xteiul over a space of more tlian sixty miles, do not afford the slightest
indications ol" prims. , ,, • r /-. • i
As I went l)v sea from Messina to Catania, and returned to Messuia Irom Latania, 1
had an opporluniiv twice to examine, at my leisure, that tract of shore, \yhich, lor the
space of niarlv thfee-and-twentv miles, is volcanic. One Uiird of it, bci^Mnning at Ca-
tania, and proceedino- to Castclfo di .!aei, consists of prisms more or less eharactensed,
and such as thev luive been described by M. Dolomieu ; but die other two tlurds, though
ecjually eomposul of lavas with tl>e former, and for the most part falling perpcndicu.
larlv i'nto the sea, have no such figure ; and only present, here and there, irregular fis-
sures and angular pieces, such as' arc generally oL>servable in all lavas, which separate
more or less on their congelation.
In m\ circuit bv sea round the shores of Isehia, I was particularly attentive, as I was
oery where else, to the conformation of the lavas ; and here and there seenied ii great
probability of iinding them prismatic, Irom die abundance of Uiem which in different
directions and angles fall into the sea : but I have already observed, when treating of the
island, and I now repeat it, that I did not find one with a regular i'orm.
At Naples, the prismatic lavas of the currents of Vesuvius, under the park of Per-
tici, have been much spoken of. When I made my observations on this burning moun-
tain' 1 had not time to \ isit these lavas. It is ^\ ith great pleasure therefore that I leiirn
thev ha\e been examined bv a person so well experienced in matters of this nature as
the' che^ alier Gioeni undoubtedh is. But the celebrated prisms disappeared in die pre-
..cncc of so accurate an observer. The following is the account lie gives ; which is ol
eonsiderable importance to our present subject : " I wished to examine the basaltes
which WQic pointed out to me as to be found on the sea shore, under the Royal Park of
Portici; but they proved to be only a compact lava, vith perpendicular and extremely
irref^-ular iissures, Ibrming fiuadrangular, and sometimes trapezoidal pilasters, which
Jia.e been employed in buildings. Similar fissures are likewise observed in tufas, and
eardis of different kinds, and can never mislead any person accustomed to them, and
acciuainted with their true causes." , , • ,
By this faithful relation of facts I Hatter myself I have clearly shewn that it cannot be
supported as a general hypothesis, that flowing lavas take a prismatical configuration
from the sudden coagulation they suffer on falling into the sea.
It may perhaps be' objected, that these prisms once existed in the lavas I observed, but
that the irresistible violence of the waves, in a long series of years, has corroded and
destroyed diem. . .
Every person acquainted with die subject must immediately perceive how little soli,
dity there is in this oljjection. 1 admit that the violence of the sea may, in some lavas,
ha\ c total!- destroved these prisms ; but that it can lia\ e had that effect on all, and
through so'extensive a space is utterly improbable. Nor is it conceivable that Felicuda,
among the Eolian isles, should still preserve its prisms perfect, while the rest of those
islands have entirely lost theirs, notwithstanding they are all equally exposed to tlic
shocks of the waves. . , ,
I cannot here omit another remark. It is certain that more than one of Uiese islands
were notibrmed by one eruption, butby successive ejections of lavas accumulating on
each other : and in' some deep fissures, occasioned by the sea, diis successive formation
■-^ discoverable i)y the e\e, as we may perceive five or six diiierent strata of lava one
IX nir. I wo ", icn-iui.
'Hi
imcrous
L Siiliiic,
:urrcnts,
sliglucst
Jatani;i, I
I, lor lilt
{^ at Ca-
ictcrisctl,
>, though
pciidicu.
:;ular fis-
stparatc;
as I was
d a great
difrcrenl
ingof the
t of For-
ig nioun-
at I learn
nature as
1 the pre-
hich is oi
i basaltcs
il Park of
ixtremely
rs, which
:ufas, and
licm, and
cannot be
figuration
Tvcd, but
oded and
little soli,
ime lavas,
n all, and
Feliciida,
It of those
ied to the
;se islands
dating on
formation
f lava one
above the other. The internal strata in very remote periods IniMng tiowcd into the sea
as the external flowed afterwards; it is evident that if the laiter on touehing the water
became prismatic, the same change must have taken place also in the former ; Mhicn
being defended from the injuries of the sea l)y the external strata, must still preserver
their prismatic configuration, of which however no traces remain. We must therefon
conclude that innumerable lavas may fall into the s( a, without having their external ap
pearance in the least changed by the sudden congelation which then takes place.
That the prismatic configuration of lavas is not always the elVect of their immersion
in the waters of the sea, likewise appears from many of them taking the same form in
the air ; of which we have a distinguished example in the crater of Vulcano. Here cer-
tainly we cannot supj)ose any intervention of the waters of the sea. Similar observations
have been made on Mount Etna by the Chevalier Giocni. " I have observed," says he.
in the work before cited, " basaltic columns at the summit of Etna, and nearly on «
level \\ ith the base of its vast crater, where there is certainly no probability of the sea
ever having reached ; and I have frequently found polyhedrons basaltcs perfectly cha-
racterized in excavations made by men in the centx' of lavas, which have issued from
the sides of Mount Etna, in periods much posterior to the retiring of the sea."
I should, however, appear deficient in candour, did 1 not mention thatM. Dolomieu
admits that lavas may sometimes in the air assume the prismatic form, if they fall into
clefts and fissures where they suddenly cool, of which he adduces an example in the
islands of Ponza.
I shall only remark, that I do not perceive the absolute necessity of the fissures in this
case ; since we frequently find lavas with his configuration in perfectly open places, as
I have seen in the great mouth of Vulcano. And u ith this opinion the observations of
Giocni on Etna certainly accord ; for had he remarked the concurrence of such a cir-
cumstance, he undoubtedly would have mentioned it.
What conclusion then ought we to deduce from all these facts and observations ?
First : that many basaltiform lavas have assumed this organization on coagulating
within the sea.
Secondly : that others have taken the same form, merely in cooling in the open air.
Thirdly : that innumerable other la\ us have not taken this figure, either in the sea or
in the air.
It appears at first view that these differences depend on the different nature of the
lavas themselves. This opinion at least is rendered probable by what we observe in
earths penetrated with water, which in drying take more or less prismatic forms, as has
been observed frequently in the argillaceous kinds. I have seen when a turbid torrent
has been introduced into a ditch through an argillaceous marie, the latter in drying di-
vided into polyhedrons pieces ; but when the water passed through chalk or calcareous
marie, the greater part of the pieces were amorphous. When we however observe lavas
with requisite attention, this conformation in them seems to be effected difierently.
It has already been said, that several of the primatic lavas of Felicuda have for their
base shoerl in mass ; but it is true that other congenerous lavas of the same island, which
form as it were walls perpendicular to the sea, are smooth over their whole superfices,
A similar smoothness is observable in some of those of Mount Etna, on the shore between
Messina and Catania, which have for their base the horn-stone ; though others extretnely
resembling them, between Jaci Rcale and Catania, are formed in prisms.
Compactness and solidity are likewise not o necessary condition in lavas, to this ap-
propriate crystallization. This has already been remarked by M. Dolomieu; and I
VOL. V.
I I
oi-t .KALI. ^N.^\NI^ inAVi.i.;;
w tax
have obscrvrd that many an.orj.hous lavas on the shores of several of t'nc Eolian islands
ire more compact than the- prismatic lavas ot I'chciu.a. ,., , . • .,
What then oai» be the iiUrir.sic circumstance ol the lava wlucli determmes .1 thus to
cleave in the prismatic ibrm > \ confess I am ijrnorant : and who can sav that we do not
s rk it in vain within the lava, sine<: it may be extrinsic a.ul adye.U.t.ous Such c-erta.nly
appears to be the opinion of M. de Luc ; and more expressly that ol M. Dolonuet. who.
to explain the phcnonu non of volcanic prisms, has recourse to a sudden coni,relation.
and instantaneous contraction of lavas. , , . • i ^ ..;,.«..;,.
The fiicts which we have adduced relative to lavas, both prismatic and not piismatK
it has been seen, do not alwavs accord with those related by the l- rench naturalist. But
even on this supposit-on, wliich is incontestable, may we not ntam the same principle
of explanation, which, to say the truth, appears to be sufficient, wuh some nciuisite mo-
difications? These 1 will endeavour to suggest, ilhistratmjr niv conjecture by the tuo
cases above adduced ; the one, thai of the lavas which take the form «t prisms merely
from the eontaci of the atmosphere, as in Vulcano and near the summit ol l.tna ; the
other, that of the lavas which refuse to take such a Ibrm even willun the sea, as at Ischia,
in some parts of the base of Etna, and in all the Kolian isles except Khciuli.
As to the former, mav not a certain coii-ulation and contraction have taken pLu^e nj
some lavas irom the mere inHuence of the atm<jsphen.-, thouj^di the ava was not incmdec
in anv cleft or fissure? It is sufficient that it be suddenly deprived ol the calo.ic (licit)
by which it is penetrated, and which rendered it rarefud and llu' . 1 o this depn vation
alava of little thickness will be very liable, since a. b.'dy loses its h.ai the sooner t..e less
its thickness and densitv. 'I'his sudden contraction may also be produced b> :l.e etrcum-
stanccs of the atmosphere ; as should astroni,^ wind, of a very cold lempcr.iiure, bUAV
at the time. The melted lavas in our crucibles will be lound to giv - ^rearer uu- u to
this latter conienclure. If they are taken from the furnace, and cans d lo p.jss l.Muu-h
a hrat LH-aduallv less ; their surface, as they cool, will only split m a tew cracks, ol little
depd),'and usuallv irregular; but when they arc immediately, in the winter tune, car-
ried into the cold air, the fissures, besides being deei)er, will treciuently be disposed m
such a manner, as to form pol) hedrous prisms, which may easily be detached Irom
die rest of the lava. . . , ^ ,,
With respect to those lavas which do not assume a prismatic form thoutrh hkj tall
into die sea, it :s certain that, to take that confirmation, their mass must huvc a stronjr
dctrree of effirvescence and dilatation, and that it must be deeply penctraKc. u>Ui \he
iirneous iluid, otheru ise the contraction neccssarv' to produce prisms cannot take piace.
But many currents which descend from the summit of burning mountains to the sea,
must ha\ e lost their cillrvesccnce \\ itli their heat in so long a course, and scarcely con-
tain sufficient ta continue their motion downwards, which perhap.s w(nild cease, wen- it
not for the impelling gravity of the lava, which frequently tails mto the sea perpen
dicularlv. . , , , ,
Surh'is thehvpodiesisbv which I would explain the cause why some lavas have as
sumed a prismatic conformation without any concurrence of the sea-water, and others
exhibit no appearance of it in places where diey have immerged mto the sea. 1 never-
theless leave every one to forni his own opinion ; and should an explanation ot these
important facts be'discovered preferable to mine, \vhich I consider as only conjectural, I
shrill rcceiv'^ Oac r.Mnmunication of it with sincere gratitude, and adopt it with pleasure.
! M i; i\\(,
.i.fi.iE;
•2ir^
\ inland''
: thus to
c do not
(\rtaiiily
.11, who,
t^c'hitioii,
rismutic,
St. But
principle
isitc mo-
thc two
s merely
tna ; the
It Ibchia,
I.
pKux' in
incuid'.d
lie (hi'.it)
privation
■r till- less
L' circuux-
irc, l)iu\v
iwi.ulu to
,s lliiuut^h
s, ol'httle
irnc, car-
ispostd in
hcd from
1 ilKv fall
c a Litroni^-
I wlih ;h(.-
akc placf.
-) I he bca>
rcciy con-
c, were it
a pi-rpcn
s have as
and odicrs
1 nt'vcr-
n of" these
ijcctural, I
A pleasure.
t flArTKH XX1\ .*
lUNtLLblON OF Tlir, ACCOUNT OF TIIK E(M<IA\ ISLES, IN REMARKS ON
VARIOUS SUBJECTS NOT VOLCANIC.
]. LiPAiii....l'<i|nil;iti()n of that island. ...Useful v('p;tial)l( s prndiircd in it ; inioiii"; which the\inc fv;r.
iiislu's till' Mu)-.l coiisidt r.ihli' hraiu ii of its i.()niiiRrrL'....C.tlil)iutfd iiiidinscy of this (•o',uUry....Mun-
mr of HKikiiiL; tliat wiiir..,.S<Mrcity of corn, whi( h iiu^^hl Ijc rendered niori. plentiful hy adoptint; a
dilTercnl ^ynU in ol ii;.;i'i'iilinii-....(Ji'eat al)nn<lanee of Indian liijs in Lipai'i and the other Eoiian isl-
ands....DelicuMis taste of il>eir iVnil.... Description of thal^hru^); and remarks on the facility with
whit li it aiay lie niultipiif(l.,..Fi'oject to render it much mure profitable hy tiiukitii; use of its leaves
to noviiish tin; ( <Kiiineal insect, as silk-wornis are led uith the niulhcrry leaf ...I-'ishcs and coral
found • -ar the shores ()f Lip.iii.... Account of a physeter, or kind of whale, observi'd hy the author
intliat sea.. ..This lis!', ihou;;!, iiiiern.dly (Jii^anized nearly like others of the mammalia class, could
remain under water a mucli ioii,!,-er time than they usually can... .Very few cattle (jf any kind in Li-
pari... .Cause ni ihis scire ity....U.il)hiis the «)nly wild tpiiidruped in this island..,. Muniier of huntinjj
them with the ferret. ...Staiion.ii'y hirdi at l^ipari hut few ; nor any hirds of passage, at least at the
time the author was there. ...Some which with us are hirds of passage, there; stationary. ...Cui'ious
manner of lakini.; swallows in the streets of tlu' city in winti r.... branches of foreij^n comnierce wiiicli
liuNe hegun to he introduced at Lipari witliin these few ye. iis.... Remarks on the assertion of Strabo,
Diorlorus, and IJioscorides, that Lipari derived a consider.ilde pioiit from the sulphate of alumiiiP
(alum.).. ..Political and eccU.'siastical slate ot I.ipuri.... Physical and moral character of the Liparesc
....Brief account of the city of Lipari.
n. STHOMiioi.i....The jvreat licat felt in this island not to he attributed to its volcano, l)ulthe sun....Na
ture of this climate. ...i'leeiueiicy of tempests. ...The shuri' of Sit'ombolidestiluteof a harbour.. ..Ves-
sels used hy the natives to navip;atc these seas. ...The p^real fpiantity of fisli taken in the vicinity of
this island, probably a consequence of the heat of its volcano. ...I'Luils which t!;iow in this island
Malmsey the principal product of the country... .Vines, and the manner in which they are ilefeiided
from the wind. ...Number of inhabitants. ...Tiie natives not fearful of their volcano. ...Hospitality of
the Strombolese.... i" i character... .Account of a sprinjj, the only one in the whole island.... Ani-
mals found in Stromholi.
in. VuLCANo....An uninhabited island. ...(ircat (piantkies of sulphate of aluminc '■alumjonce extract-
ed lierc....Uifticulty of the extraction of it at present... ..More profit inii^ht be derived from planting
vines.
IV. SAi.iN'F.....Abimdance of grajics in this island. ...Sprin.c; near the shore, piohably stipplied by rain
wat(U'.... Muriate of soda (sea-salt) extractiil from a small lake coniimious tothe sea.... Means of pro-
curing this salt. ...Curious phenomenon observable in this lake, when the sea water enters it.
V. VI. Fei.icuDa AND Ai-icuD.v... .Their population. ...The houses built not on the shore, or at the
foot of these mountainous islands, but about halfway up their declivity, that they may be less ex-
posed to the incursions of the Barbafy pirates, whoformcrly have frequently landed there in searcli
of plunder.. ..Such inciirsicjiis sometim'is still made at present....Well-ij;rouiuK'd fears of travellers
in sailini; round these islands, ...Uselul vet^etaijles in Eelicuda and Ali(:tida....Tiie corn of Alicuda
'■xcoJlent, though produced but i'l small quantity.... Extraordinary industry of the inhaliilatits in if-
''Sonic chapters of a tlieori'iic nature are oinittecl.
1 T 2
'.->■
:44
o »• A t, r, A N /. AM* :. T R A \' U L a
ruUivaUoi,..,.Visht,U'-l>o.H ol thcsr i.lM,.K....Ui.llci.lous„n.l MipeiMitiouH iHMCUco ot the mhah.tun ,-
^v • v h si u nl or u.fc .lirH....noasl ..f iIk- ,ho,.U. ..IHa- Li,M.i islun.ls.u ,;.;>». r.l, 1 1 uU U.os. .sla>.
CO nun no ki.ul ,.f sc.pci.t....PhyM<al rcsonof this fa- .....l-Mrnm,. scuvnty o .nsrcts t »■••'' 'J
tW ri sr....Ki.viul>l.- uu>,.,uillity a.xl rontn.l of the i.l,,.lHt.nts ol .l.cs. .sla.uls Sulu hn.y ot the
';;: WunuVcs cxin rU nV.,1 IV.uu tluu salubrity l.y tlu autl.or ^uvn^^ \n. stuy lhcrc....Lomiw.8o«
between ll.isvcrv pure uir, uiul lluU of some of tin; low plains ol Lombaniy.
TO complete mv observations relative to these ishuuls, 1 shall now proceed to give a
concise account oftheir population, the character, nvtiuiers, and customs ol the inhabi
tants their commerce, the animals stationary and mi^ratc^ry found m them, and other ana-
loRous objects, ajrreeablv to what was proposed in the introducti<;n to this work.
I Ln> A R i....this island is the largest and much the most populous oi those called the
Eolian isles, the number of its inhal/itants amounting to between nine and ten thousand,
a considerable part of whom reside in the city of the same name, which is very ancient,
as it appears Irom historical records that it existed before the war of 1 roy.*-
If the island of Lipari be divided into fom" parts, about two and a half will be found to
be cultivated, and the remainder overgro^va with wood and barren 1 hcse barren tracts,
however, continuallv diminish, and are converted into fruitful fields, from a kind ot ne-
cessity arising from" the continually increasing population ol the island. ^
Lipari produces cotton, pulse, and olives, though m but small quantities. The com
produced there, and which is of an excellent quality, amounts annually to fifteen hun-
clred Sicilian salme,t or two thousand at most, and is scarcely sufhcient to supply the
^"Amon£; the useful productions of this island the principal are grapes, of which there
are several kinds. The first furnishes the common wine which is drunk m the island,
and of which there is so great an abundance, that they export annually two, and even
three thousand barrels (barilli) of it without the least inconvenience. Fhcy press the
grapes on the spot where the vines grow, and carry the must, in leather bottles, to the ir
respective houses on beasts of burthen. , , ■ , r *! *
The passola and passolina, as they are here called, are two other kinds of grapes that
are dried. The last is that sort which is usually called the Corinthian grape. Of this
they commonly sell ten thousand barrels annually ; and of the other about t^velve thou-
^'' From a fourth kind of grape is made the famous malmsey of Lipari, which name alone
is sufficient for its eulogium. It is a wine of a clear amber colour, at once generous
and sweet, which fills and warms the mouth with an agreeable fragrance, and a return
of sweetness some time after it is tasted. But as nature usually bestows on man her most
precious gifts with a sparing hand, this grape is here scarcer than any other ; and docs
not furnish at most more than two thousand barrels annually, which the Liparese sell
for foreiLm markets, as they do also the passola and passolina. During my stay m the
island, I could scarcely procure a sufficient quantity to revive my spirits after my ta-
ticues, and carry with me a specimen of this rare and delicious liquor to 1 avia.
1 was desirous to learn the method employed by the natives in making ma msey. It
is as follows : they do not gather the grape until it is perfectly ripe, which is known by
its beautiful yellow colour and the sweet taste it acquires. When the grapes are ga-
t A salmfco^Iins 1 6 tumuli, the lumulo from 20 to C :. rotoli. and the rotolo 2^ pounds. Stolbcrg'.
Travels, vol. ii. p. 506.
J
IN THE TWO SICILILO.
J45
luibitunt-
lu'lT, Uiui
ly of tin-
luparison
0 give a
,' inhabi-
ihcr iina-
lallecl the
lousand,
■ ancient.
found to
en tracts,
nd of nc-
riie corn
Lien hun-
ipply the
lich there
le island,
and even
press the
s, to th( ir
rapes that
Of this
:lve thou-
ame alone
generous
i a return
1 her most
and does
)arese sell
,tay in the
ter my fa-
Imsey. It
known by
es are ga-
Stolberg't
inerod, the rotten and s;joiiul berries being first pieked out, they arc exposed to the sun
on mats made of reals i'or eight or ten days, or sonu times \o\\i>;n; till they are dried.
They then place llu in on a clean stone floor, surrouiukd with a kind of low wall, aixjiit
two'feethigh, where thcv crush them, first with a stone lasUncd to the end of a small
staft'or handle, and afterwards with their naked feet, till all the juice is expressed; which
is then let run otF through an aperture to anoUier similar floor, the sides of wltieh are
higher; and here the must is all collected. It is afterwards drawn ofl'iiUo vessels in
which it is left to ferment, till it is perfectly depurated and become fit to drink, whieli
it is by the following January.
The vintage is in the month of September, at which time the I/iparese, leaving t\w
city, resort in companies to some cottages near the vineyards, where they remain during
the gathering of the grapes, resigning themselves to mirth and innocent pleasures ; and
the voyager, who chances to ap'proaeluhe island at that season, finds his surprise not a
little excited by the mnncrous lights which arc exhibited during the night, and illumi-
nate and embellish these rustic habitations.
Another plant, if it does not form a branch of foreign commerce, is }ct of some tlo-
niestic utility to the Liparesc : I mean the opuntia, commonly called the Indian lig.
(Cactus Opuntia, Lin.) This shrub with us will not live through the winter, except it
is preserved in hot-houses ; and being in a climate not congenial to its natine, grows to
no great height, and produces but few fruits, and those small and of no worth. At Li.
pari, on the contrary, and in the other Eolian islands, it thrives so ^vell that it usually
grows to the height of ten, twelve, and sometimes fifteen feet, with a stem a foot or more
in diameter. The fruits, which are nearly as large as a turke\ 's egg, are sweet, and
extremely agreeable to the palate, and of very easy digestion. When unripe, their skin
or rind is green ; but when ripe, of a reddish yellow. This plant will take root and
grow, in a surprising manner, in almost any situation which has a favourable aspect,
and the most favourable is the southern. It thrives alike in the poorest aiK he richest
soils, the fissures of lavas, among the ruins of ancient buildings, on fragments of dried
mortar, and in the cre\ ices of walls. It is well known that the fruits grow at the edges
of the leaves ; the number on each leaf is not constant, but they are frequently nunic-
rous, as I have counted two-and-twenty on a single leaf. They begin to ripen about
the beginning of August, and continue to November. In some situations, indeed, where
they enjoy the benign influence of the sun, they remain through the whole w'inter; and
even where they have not that advantage, they may be preserved ripe and in good con-
dition during the winter, by being gathered green in autunni, and left attached to the
whole or a part of the leaf, the juice of the leal", which is always thick and pulpy, aftbrd-
ing a nutriment to the fruit.
The inhabitants ot Lipari eat these fruits during several months of the year ; for as
there is great abundance of them, they are sold at a very low price. Besides those
which nature produces here spontaneously, the Liparesc industriously cultivate great
numbers of tlicbc Indian figs, and die method of multiplying them is very easy. It is
well known that this plant is propagated by means of die leaves, which are of an oblong
shape, narrower at one extremity :hanat the other, and resembling a peel or shovel, by
whicli name they are called by the Sicilians, Every leaf is thick and pulpy, and each
side of it scattered over with small buttons or knobs, from which arise a great number
of little prickles, w idi a large one in the centre, of the length of an inch. If these but-
tons only touch die earth they take root, let the ground be what it may. The leaf
which has taken root puts forth other leaves diat again produce odiers; and from being
flat, as it was at tirst, becomes in time round, and forms a trunk which lengthens and
•j-lo
:. , Ki. I. A N /•. .\ \ I
1 li A V i: 1. :.
tl<ickciv> in in-op'irtir.n as the other leaves }];rou- and niuhiply. For the skm or trunk, o;
the Indian IVj^. wlii* i-.. as I have already said, issometimesniore dian a I'tKjt in diameter,
is only a series (>!' leaves in an uprif^ht position, and adherinir to taeh other.
Sueliare ihediflerint vegetable 'pn;dtH,tiniis of the island in Lipari, whieh however,
w ith respect to eommeree, may be reduced to one only, I mean the i>Tape, Corn, as
we have seen, IVoui its scarcity", scarcely deserves to Ijc ni' lUioned ; hut this might be
gr(iwn in far greater ciuantity,' were the's\ st« ni of agriculture prevalent at present in this
island ehangi'd. It is here the general practice to raise the \ ines two or three lect above
the gronndl and with poles and reeds to lorni a kind of squares by which they are sup-
ported. 'J'he cons((iueuce is, that the \ ii.es with their branches and leaves form a
kind of covering, impenetrable to the rays of the sun, wl.ieh renders the soil below en-
lirelv barren. Several of the natives of I/ipari huve had the good sense to perceive the
iiuo'nvei/ience (if this practice', and, disregarding the prejudices of dieir countrymen,
Uiwu changed these pieces of barren ground into fruiiiul corn-fields, without the least
detrinunt'io the fruit of the vine. The abbate Gaetano Trovatini, whom 1 have else-
where mentioned with deserved commendation, is among t!ie number of the few who
liave made this liberal experiment. I saw a field of his which, though not very extcn-
sive, nor of a better soililiau others, produced both a pkntilul harvest and an abundant
vintage. Instead of planting the vines in the narrow squares there called'pergole, he has
ranged them in parallel espaliers with wide interstices ol ground between them, in which
I'.e has sou 11 corn in straight furrows, after die method of Du Hamel. Thus the air
;,nd the sun exert their inlluences freely l)etueen the espaliers, and not afoot of ground
is lost to cultivation. The grain } ields a luxuriant crop, and the vines are at the same
time not less fruiiiul than those of the neighbouring grounds, where the old method is
adhtied to. It is true that Trovatini, like Cains Furiiis Cresinus in ancient times, is
survejcd by m:m} with an eye of ill-nattired envy, ^^hen they compare the ^\•retchcd
appearance of their grounds \vith the copious produce of his. But e\en uhilc 1 was
there, several of his in ighbours had Ijeguu to imitate his example. It is much to be
regretted that Don (liuseppe Cippolaof Palermo, the late bishop of Lipari and the ad-
;..,cent islands, did not live some years longer. That worthy prelate seemed to have
been l)(,rn for the improvement of the scjil of those countries, whieh before were wild and
little producti\ e. The number of olive-trees which he caused to be planted is incredi-
ble. I found above three thousand in Paiiaria ale)ne. He also introduced mulberry.
trees there, whieh have thriven extremely well. I saw one in a court-yard, planted eight
vears ago, which in sii^e and strength did not in the least yield to ours of the same age,
jujugh the latter have the advantage of a more suitable soil. He has likewise enriched
ihe island \\ hh anoiher species of die Indian lig, brought from Palermo, the fruit of
>\ hich is red and extie mely delieicnis. I sincerely wish liis successor, who is unknown
to me, may follow his excellent example.
Since I iia\e again mentioned the Indian lig, I canne)t avoid noticing an idea which
has occurred to liie, and w hich, shf)uld it ever be carried into efi'e ct, must be productive
of great advantage both to Sicily and die i'Lolian isles. The cejchineal insect (Cijccus
Cacti, Lin.) is bred and c<jllected in Mexic(j, and other Spanish provinces of South
America, and the commerce e:arried on in it is estimated at luaiiy millions of dollars
i-nnuail}. Might not the advantages derived from this precious drug be shared with
Mexico by the!' Lipari islands and Sieily, which may be eonsidered asllie most southern
jiarl ol Italy, Ipmu which it has been separated by the irruption uf die ;>ea that produced
the strait olMessina? ToeiVect diis, two things ineleed are necessary; die plant on
uliich die insect lives a-.'d propagates, and ihv iuiect itself. The plant is that usually
. !•;• IV. 0 .ji; ! r
trunk 0*
iamctcr,
lowcvcr,
Jorn, as
iiiglit I)C
It in this
ct above
arc sup-
I'orm a
L'lovv tn-
civc the
itryiucn,
ihi- least
ivc clsc-
ftw who
y cxicn-
ibundant
e, hi' has
in which
IS the air
r f^round
the same
Kiiioc! is
limes, is
ivrctchcd
ilc I was
ch to be
;l I he ad-
to have
wild and
I iucrcdi-
uilbcrry-
tcd eight
anic age,
enriched
f In lit ot"
mknown
ea \s hich
•oductive
(Coccus
ol" South
)!" dollars
iivd with
soutlieru
produced
plant on
It usually
called the Iiidi;in fijj;, ;;nd wiiich is fninul in siicli aljuiul.itfi.' in tiic I'.'ili.m isles and Sicily.
where I have st en the loot o|' I'.tna coxered wi'h it. 'IVavellrrs n iat'.' that the opMiiti is
of Mexio, wlure tlie\- are cullivated x\ilh the yri itest c;:i( , grow to the Iieight (Mii.^dit
feet, and that the IcaM s {,',' s'hir- of iheni ari' lu :.rly a foot in length. We ha\e s lid llK'.r
those olLi|)aii, and tin sanu is tine ol tin r; ' I eltlie I'olian is!i s and (^F Sicily, rise to
a greater heiglit, and have Iea\es more than a loot long, if there lore these plants tluive
as well in Sicily and the Ivilian isles as in Ain< rica, and ptrha|)s betlir than they do
tlicre, wh}- should not the cochineal insects, which Icid on tin in, tliii\e e(|nally in those
countries? Will I'.ottlu- silk-uonn, though originally from India, live and nniltiply in
every countrs where it can be supplied w iih the liavcs ol" the niulherry-tree ? 'I'he onI_\
dilViculty, in my ojnnion, wfyuld be the conveyance of this useful insect to sf) great a dis-
tance, principal!} because it could lujt be removed in the egg, since it is viviparous, and
not ovijiarous. It should be observid, ho\vever. that as llic: Anuricms ixrpeluatc tin;
cochineal by means of the leaxes of the ojiuntia, it no doubt Nvould continue to live on
the leaves of that plant ; which might be brought, grow ing in large vessels filled with
earth, from iMexico to Sicily. The important advantnges to be d.rived from the suc-
cess of the expel iment, at least would sufliciently justily the la'oour and expeU'c of the
attempt. I am not ignorant of the jealousy and reser\e with which the possessors of
this insect, which is so valualile to them, guard it from foivigncrs to prevent th(ir .steal-
ing it. Such a theft has, hou ever, been pr ictised on them to the advantage of some of
the French provinces. I know likewise' tint tiie hint I have here given, should ite\er
be carrieel into eflect, would not be agreeable to the political view s of S[)ain ; Ijut an
Italian and a philosopher may surely be permitted to propose it.
I shall now dismiss die veg'iables, and proceed te) say a word of the fishery of Lipari,
tlian which notl-.ing can be m(>re wretched. Not that the sea d(jes not contain fish ;
but becatise tlieie are but few there who follow fishing as an occupation, and even of
these the gre..i.er numl>eraie' not provided with the necessar}- implements. They only
use the line and !i0(;k, :;nd the sciabica, a kind of net, which the\- throw tfj a consider-
able distance' into the sea, and then dragon shore. 'J'his mode of lishing is e)nly used
in the harbour, and nejt very frequently, at least in the summer, though I have been told
that in winter it is more' common, as they are then without other eiu[)loyment. 1 have
often been present at their throw ingtlu net, less from curiosity than to procure fish ihv
iTiy small table : l)ut those days proved unpropitious to the fishermen, and not less un-
lucky to myself ; since after three or four throws they either caught no fish, or those so
few and small, that had I nothing else te> eat I might have died with hunger.
In June and July the.y likewise lish for coral, both roimd the shores of Lipari and at
Vulcano. When 1 was there { procured a rare specimen, consisting of a branch of coral
which had grown on a volcanic enamel under the castle of Lipari. l-'ifteen barks, I was
told, are usuallv enirasfed in the coral fisherv ; but either because lhe\ are ignorant of
thej)roper melhods of delachiiig this valuable animal phmt from the rocks aiul caverns
of the sea, or because they are not suHiciently expert in the use (jf them, this fishery is
very unproductive. In the two months above-mentioned, every bark carrying eiglit
men fished up ten or fifteen rotoli of coral ; and the rotolo conlair.s two pouitds and a
half, and the pound twelve {)unces.
Formerly coral was likewise fished at the Secca di Santa Caterina, a jilace distant ten
miles from the liarbour of Lipari ; but some barks having been wrecked there, the bi
shop of that time, Father de Francisci, a Dominican, fulminated liis excommunication
.'•gainst any bark which in ftiturc should have the temerity to attempt to fish in th:it place
2iii
il'AM.A VRAM's 1 H ^VEI. .
It) mv \.irious iTwritlmc rNrursioiis round thr V.n\u\u isks, I never mrt with nny of
thoM- suiiilltrctt.ircoiis lish uliicU arc rii'|.Kinl\ I'diuuI i:i t)tlu r p;.rf, ol' tin- Mrditcmi-
m:in. Hut nuv div wlun ilu: sia was ciilin, wluk' I \\;is s:iilinn U< twtiii I'anaria and
\'iil('an(), a I uri^i- cctacious fi^li ol' t!ic melius oltlif phyv.i. r, aiut which, iVom a h.njrfin
on the l)ack, I jndj^cd lolu- the 'rin^iooI'Linncns, suddiiilx ro^v K'thc t')|)of the water.
It apprfKuluduithin about seventy Iceiol niy Ixnt, and 1 had sntlieieiU opportunity to
ol)servc it with sonic attention, li is will known to mariners as nell as nattu-ahsts, that
dolphii\s, physeters, and whales, properly so called, have ne. d of respiration from time
to time, and'therelbre hcfiucntly rise to the :.nri;He of the watrr nuh tlie upper part ot
tluir l)0(hts, and throw up, from one or more apertures thry have m die head, one or
two ejeetion's of water aecompanird by the air they have taken in, and inhale fresh air.
The cetaceous fish of which I now speak did the same; and when he came to the sur-
faceot'the water, and drew alonij; the half of his body above it, he wi.s so near that 1
could estimate his dimensions with the eye. He was at least twenty. eif;ht feet loiifr, and
tlie brt;;ihhof ills budv, where lari^cst, not less than eight feet. The caudal fm was
cil^dit feet in lent,'th, and' the dorsal two. At every expiration a hissinj,' soimd was heard
oHiir and water, which he ejected to the hei{i;ht of li^dit or nine feet. A little before
he made this ejection, he raised nearly the half of his huge body above the water, but
after five or six minutes again sunk ai>d disappeared. I wished to observe the interval
of time between one ejection and another, as the animal continued this alternation for
a full(iuarterofan hour. 1 perceived they were repeated after every sixteen or seven-
teen seconds, and 1 flattered myself that I had ascertained with sulhcient accuracy the
space of lime that one of this species of fish can remain under water without being
obliged to rise to the surface and inhale air ; but I soon found this calcidation erroneous.
After mv curiosity had been gratified with this scene about a (piarter of an hour, the
animal raised his tail vertically about three feet above die water, and plunging directly
down disijipeared ; nor could I again discover him, though both I and the four mariners
who were wiUi me watched widithe utmost attention during a quarter of an hour: and
certainlv iiad he in that time raised himself to take in air, we must have seen him, from
his great bulk and the calmness of the sea. I then perceived that this animal, though
in hrs or>-anii;ation in a great measure resembling the class of mammalia, and therefore,
likethciu, under the necessity of respiriiij,, could yet remain a much longer time under
water than tlu v can, _ _ n » • • i • i i
But if aquatic animals are of little advantage to the mhabitants of Lipan, their land
animals are nearly of as little. Both large and small cattle arc there e x ire mdy scarce ;
and the few oxen and cows which are slaughtered there arc brought from Sicily, and
are very lean. This is entirely to be ascribed to the po\ erly of the pasturage. The
Liparese ctiltivate themselves the small portions of land they possess.
With respect to wild (juadrupeds, the eoimtry produces only rabbits, which make
their burrows in the mountainous parts, where the volcanic mailers, principally oi the
tufaceous kind, permit them to dig wiih their feet. 'I'hey are hunted with the ferret
(Muslello Fnro, Linn.) and the ehace is very amusing. Though thisanmial be origi-
nally Irom Alriea, it will live and propagate in the southern ct)uniries ol Italy, li is
about the size of ihe common cat, and in its make something between the weasel aiid
the pole-eat. I have seen them extremely tame at Lipari, where they breed as fast in
the houses as w hen wild. The sportsman who goes to catch the rabbits lakes widi him
the I'erret in a cage, and a dog. The latier, when he sees the rabbit, follows him to
the hole in whiciriic takes relugc; or, if he is under ground, discovers him by the
IS I in: i wo :,n: J 1. 1 !■.:,.
'J-V*
h :iny of
cditcmi
laria atul
I loM^ tin
he UilttT.
tiinity to
lists, that
•om time
T part oJ
I, one or
Ircsh air.
)thc siir-
ar that 1
lonfr, and
il iin was
^viis heard
Ic before
ater, but
e interval
nation for
or seven-
uracy the
)ut being
rroneous.
hour, the
^ directly
r mariners
our : and
him, from
il, thou}>;h
therefore,
me vnider
their land
ly searee ;
lieily, and
ge. The
lich make
ally oi the
i the ferret
I be OTigi-
aly. li is
veascl and
as fast in
> wiih him
\vs him to
lim by the
■iccnt, and stops at the mouth of ilie biinow. 'I'he 'portsmui thui put- the rai.t'',tro, u
kind of niu?:."Ie nuide of packthnad, «:n the Rrrit, that \v may not bite the ral)l)U ; as
otherwise he would kill it in the hole, and after haviii;; sueked the blood, leave it there.
Beinf<; miable to seir^e it, he only sdaK lus it with his tiaws, anfl t< rrifics it till it ende.i
vours to make its eseape out of the burrow, and is taken in a net placed lor tlii. pinpoi?
The ferret follows \l out, and is a;^ain put into the (•ai:;^
These rabbits arc smaller than the tame oius, and, like others that an? wild, are of a
gray colour. Not that they are originally such; since it is within memory that die)
were first broufj^ht there by one of the natives, where they havi', as is usual with them,
multiplied prodij^iously. But nattire, put under restraint by man, never fails to restore
to animals vvhieh regain their liberfy, the size and exterior habit of body which they
had in their original state.
The birds stationary here are but few. They are the partridge (Tetrao IVrdi.^:, I^in/;
the greenfinch (Loxia Chloris. Lin.) the sparrow (Fringilla Domestica, uie i.^Mlai'-li
(Fringilla carduelis) the horn-owl (Strix Seops) and the raven (Corvus Coiax.) Th(
latter is usually fouitd about the cultivated fields near the stoves, and on the steepest
rocks, though sometimes ii) places sullieiently accessible for the young ravens to be taken
Of those kinds of water-fowl which migrate from one sea to another, ae(;ording ar
they find food in greater or less plenty, and pass indifl'erently from the salt water of the
8ca to the fresh of rivers, lakes, and jionds, such as the difl'erent kinds of sea-gulls (Lari
Linn.) and the cormorant (IVIicanus Carbo) 1 did not sec one litre. Indeecl it is vet)
rarely that any kind of water-fowl is seen in the Kolian isles.
It is not the same with the birds of passage. In April the turtle-dove (Columba Turtur,:
and the quail (Tetrao Coturnix) arrive here, and slay a few days, Tluy come in the
same manner in September. Several kinds of swallows are common liere (llirundo
rustica, urbica, apus, melba.) The two latter make their nests in the fissmx s of the rocks,
and in the highest walls of the city ol Lipari. When I Uft that city, which was on the
15th of October, some swallows of the first and last sjieeies were flying o\er it. I shall
likewise observe, that on the night oi' the 13di of the same month there was a dreadful
tempest with lightning, rain, and hail ; and the next day, early in the nKjrning, a strong
south-west wind blowing, I saw in the air, over the castle of Lijjari, at least a hundred
common house-swallows, though they soon after disappeared. Reaumur's thermometer
that morning stood at ISa degrees above zero (672 "' I'ahrenheit.)
In some conversations relative to swallows, which I had with Doctor Trovatini and
several other persons at Lipari, they related to me a fact w liieh I had belbre heard at
Stromboli, and shall again mention when I come to treat of that island. It is that in
winter, and when a sciroccal or w arm southerly breeze blows, sw allow s of one or other
oi the lour species above mentioned are i'reqnently seen to skim the ground in the streets
oi the city, and are dien easily knocked down with long sticks by children, as they arc
extremely wet. The two latter kinds are even taken with hooks and lines fastened to
the extn mity of a long reed. A small leather is fastened over the hook, and the boy
who holds the reed conceals himsell' behind the corner of a street, and waves the leather
in the air. Tiie swallow, accustomed to catch insects as it flies, takes the featiier and is
caught by the hook.
From these observations we cannot but conclude, that these swallows do not pass into
Africa at the ai)proaeh of winter, as many have believed, but that they more probably
remain in the island, and issue from their retreats in the warm days of winter in quest of
food.
VOL. V. K K
J5U
..I'Af, I ^ Ni:.\Ni n i rM vF.i 3
I sau likewise at Lipari, wliili' iiiakini^tluMircnit ol'ilu i«>l;in(l by sci, a fiftli species
ol'swiillovv, till- swallMWordK' Ijiiik (Ilinimlo liMuia, I/iii.) This liird ii soih iioini
iKitid from hiiildiiij; it-, iicsts in ilic li.mksor ri\(rs, iind soimtiim s tlx slmris lyltlu sra.
I ohht r\id sc\i r.il ol" lln si .s\\;illc)\vs|1\ in-^ iilcmt tlii' iim ks nl' lull, uli'uli tl( sciiid almost
pitpiiidii ularl} iiUo Uii sia; and luaioj;- stoppid iIkii some timi'uiih my boat, I saw
luoiv tliiin OIK of tluiu \ri) iiitoaiul irjim. out of tlii' holes thiy had made in du' tid'.i. I
was tolil hy the people of Lipari that this kind of s\vall(jw appears in March, and tlisap
pears in (Kloher.
In the introdnc tion to this \vork I ha\e tncniloiKd that it uas my intintion to add to
theo|)servati()ns I should make on the swalNjus ol' I.ipari and Sicily, others whit h I had
made on the sauu species ol' birds in Lombard} ; uhieh addition woidd not hive been so
lou)^, but it mi^dit have been lure lonveniently sid>joined. Hut hi\ing aliirwards more
fidly coiisitlered ihr subject, and made new and \arious experiments to elucidate the
;^reat contro\ersy, wlullur swallows re main torpid durin;.^the cold weather, of whieh I
liaM' slightly treated in mj odier works (see my Annotaticjiis on the i ontemplation of
Nature, and 'I'raets on Animal anel \ efj^etalile JMasicsj)* and havinj^ afterwards ex-
tendi d those eNi)eriments to other animals will ire in like maimer torpid in wintt r,
indesi)eciall\ tliose whose' blood is cold, as the couiuion heclL!;i-ho^' (l"',rinaeeus l''.uropae-
us, Lin.) the marmot (Mns Marmota) the dormouse (Mus avellau iriiis) the bat
(\'esperiili(j) I ibund my matter so increase on i«y hands, that Ideternuned to |)nblisli
my obijcrvations on this subject sei)aratel\ , alter ha\in[f linished the work in whicli 1
ant at present occupit (I.
We will now proceed to tiotice some otiicr particulars relati\e to Lijiari and its inha-
I)iiants. Toreii;!! commerce has beirun to be introduced into the island by the mariners,
most of whom tialllc in what they call f^Mllantry-wares. Tliey every u iir buy, at the
!;iir of Siiiijrai^lio, linen, muslins, veils, and odier commodities oi that kind, to the value
offrom thirteen to fourteen thousand Sicilian oncie,|- and selltheni at Messina, Catania,
Palernu), and other parts of Sicil\ . This trade is very advantaj^t ous to the country, and
many ha\e aeijuind considerable' wealth by it. It has however consielerably diminished
'he fishery, anel raised the price' of lish.
ytrabo, J)iod(jrus, and Dioscoridcs, write that the sulphate of ahntiinc (alum) was pro-
■ured in threat abundance at Lipaii. 'J'lie truth, hnue\er, is, that ntjue whatexer of
tliat '-.alt is now e-xtrarte d ni the island. I ha\ e passed over almost evi.'ry foot of j^n-ound
;i it, and only found some traces or t lll(;resce nces of it, as 1 haxc meiiiioneel in the
,.'r(>per places, whiih, with respect lo jirolit, would not ])ay the labour ()f collecting.
We must dierclori' conclude that the \un of this mineral has either been exhausted or
lost; or thai the Liparese prcjcured it, not from their own island, but the lu ii;hbouring
one (;f \'vdcano, which is siill riih in this sulpli.ile. The latter is i)eihaj)s the most pro-
bable explanation ol' the authorities above allegeel.
The political adininisiration of Lipari iscomijosed of a criminal jndc^e, a fiscal, a i^'o-
vtrnor who has the e:luel aulliorily b<jtli in miluary and civil alfairs, and who is com-
tnonl} an olel invalid, and a e!\ il iudge.
The bislioj), seventeen canons oj' the fust order, and fDurlcen of die s<'eond, and from
I hundred aiid iwentv to a hundred and lliirt) priests, form the ecclesiasiical establish
tnent.
* Aiiii<<t,i/i')iri all;i C^mU'iiiitlazioiic di Uu ?s;.nii'.i. Ojv\isc(ili di Tisica Aiiiniulcc Ve-ejlluljile.
t Ctmnl Stip|l)ei'!v, ill lus Ti.iM Is, hicly jmlilislied, .--ays the uiri.kjI' Sii ily is worth tlirce ^ix-liol!;i^^
.ii\(l ui;n' i;;()ii(l t.';r(>s( li<.'i\ ; (a' ..lioiil eli'veo shillini^s and niiu'-i>i'nri:. Tlic German triuislateir of lliis
\\r)i!', t ;i.,i t'-^ '.Im (..nii-i. I ki!Ow ii<»i om wluit anthoi'iiv, a' six d'dl.irs.,..'r
IN Mil. 1 u o :;i(: n. If'..i.
U5l
spec II s
l( iiuini
llll sui.
I almost
t, 1 saw
tiil'i. 1
d Uis;ip
o add to
eh I h id
• been so
(Is more
(1 lie the
whielt I
latiou of
rds cx-
uiiUi r,
uiropac-
iIk- bat
) publish
uhieli I
its iiihii-
nariiicrs,
y , at the
[he value
Catania,
iilr\ , and
miiiished
was pro-
atevcr ol'
»r jj;roiind
.d ill the
olk'ciiiig.
laiisiidur
hbouring
uost pro-
•al, a •j;o-
) is eoin
and from
establish
ris-dollufh
iiUir of Uiis
The iiati\*. ■) of this island are not w.iiiiln;;- in natural abiliti's, but in tli( cultivation of
ihein. Till. liipaiise an in m in III ol'a prompt and li\t ly uit, riidy to It am, t T a«;uW'
peiieiratiun, and exirenu ly desirous of obtaininij; kno\vUilij;e. IK'nrc, uluu any Karntt!
strmmr \isits ilu ir islmd, tin re i> no end to thi ir f|iiistions and in(|iiirlvs. They wil
liiij^dy beeonu his j^nidisto tin ir stoves and baths; and ihire is not one anion|j their
who is ij^norant that his country was owv prodiieid by lire. Tin- seat of the court «'
king .'Ii'.olus is cotitestid in the I'.olian isles, as the birih|)lacv of lloincr is in (ireec*'.
IK is claimed by each of the islands ; but the peopk of Lip.iri an fully persUMilul llvd
the roj.il residi nee ol this pt tty so\trei;;n was in tluir island; and thoie ainoii;;' tlu iw
who hiivc so\ne little tincture of literature, e;iu cite the aiiihoritv of Homer and otJKt
uriters in proof of tluir ;issertion.
A be jjjj^Mr is se;irct ly «.\er to be found in I/ip;iri ; fore\ru thi' poorest persons ha\'»
some small piece: ol' t^n)und v\hie;h the) cultivate, and by the pii)duce (jf wliuh lIn)
live.
The nat'vcs are usually ro!)nst, stn)iif^, rather of :i jarj^c si/.o, and comely. ^\'I^el
younj^they h;ivc fine eoinplexions ; but latigue will diminish i\i ry kindoi be;utty, e\ci.
that of the fair sex. 'I'his chanfi;e is j;re;itly ;icce le raleel by the luiitof the sun i llu;t'i
ftcts of which are conspicuous in their tanned skins and swarthy counteiumces.
If it Wiisa disj;race in (Ireece to be unable to swim, it is not less shanieful in Ijip.n
and the other Koiian isKs, to be i}.i;norant either ol that ;irt, f)r tluit of nuina^in;!; tli' o.ii,
or btceriiif,'' and h;indiii},^ the sails of a vessel. The priests ;ire \ery e:;pert in every ev
crcise of this kind. Tin greater part of them have, like the s;iilois, their arms or haiuV
marked with black iiieklible st;iins re[)rese ntini^ either the cruciJi;; or sonie saint. 1
knew, at Lipari, a man of consiek r;ibk' properiv , ;ind \vho\\as honoured with the titf'
ol" baron, who was m;irkeel in this HKinner, haviiii;' formerly been a iiKiriner.
Tile cityofLipuri is uolol an extensive circuit, and consists nither of n;'.rrow alley
tlian sin els. The castle is surrounded with a w.iU on whieh ;ire' mounted ;i lew can
non, and is di kiided by ;i small j^.irrison. The houses are ver\ inditkrent buildiii;^s,
but three edifices are distinij,uishable from the rest. These are the palace of the bisluip,
the he)use- of the governor, anel the e:;ithedral church. The kitter cont;iiiis \t ry v;ilu>J)k;
sacred utensils, and a great (piantity of [ late and silve r images, among w hicli is the si.iiue
of Si, Bartholomew, their patnjii saint. These have been collected entirely at the ex-
pence of the people, and the v;ilue of this trciisure is saiel by those who understand it to
amount toniiu t\ thousand Nea])olitan scnidi.*
II. SiHOMiioLi... .Though both Stromb(jli ;tnd Lipari lie nearly under the same de-
gree of latitude, or 38" N. the former is much lujiur in summer ihau the kitter; espe-
ciallv near the sea, on account of the strong reflection of the r;ivs ot the sun I'rom the
large tr.icfs of sand. It does lujt appe;ir probable, however, that this heat is to be attri-
buted to its volcano, siiu:e, excepting a few places near its mouth, if we dig into the
earlh, we find the ground less warm at some ik pth tliau on the surki' e.
The winter here' is always mild; it never live/.os ; and saow, which is seleloin sexn,
if it fall one day, melts the- next. Its greatest dept.'i is ;iboiit two iiiclics ; anel it is re-
lated as a jirodig}, that, s(jme years since, snow i'ell on the lirsl of November, to the
depth ofa i)aliu (or nearly a foot.) On the summit of i:ie monntiiin indeed, snow falls
more frcepiently, and sometimes will remain for a fortnight ; which proves the height i/
the mountain to be verv considerable.
»
* The: Neanolit 111 srvitlo is worth about 'Is. A
K K '?
2Sii
sr M.f. \n;: \nj*'.
, 1' '• » s
The sea nniiul ilnsHl.inil iilK'HiuiUly ;i^it.ift«l !>,• .iri», a'lcl llic I'mi I ain procccL
iu}^ tf) nuntion will sin u tolion- ^n.il a hut,l't lis • ,"; ii'i'l. \\«» iitat.
Aboiita mile Iroiti tlu- i.uitl, oii tlu; iiortli-iMst .^iiU <•! tlu i<»l;tn(l, ri^cHU spacioiiH lu
kc(l ntck, callul liu Kock of Sirduilxili. It coiisisrs oC oi.t- ciitirt- picci-, hari ru^j^id
pr)iMls ;ii tin.- l()|) ; iiDtl iis hiiv , wluiv ii is uaslud In tlu uotir, i«* about a <|iiartcr oi a
niiK ill lirf.uit. Its greatest Ik i|,'ht j, thru luiiidrnl liit. This rock is a hii[«,c nwssol
la\.i, uhii'li, pr»»l>al)lj , nncc \\:isjoiiu(l lo thi i'll.iiul, and has siiici htiii separated from i(
I)) the violence of the .sea. 'l*he nati\es of Siioinl)*!! have obsirved that, in very great
sitonnslhe biljuusrisr to oiu. hallthi h-i^hl oi this rock; and some oi" them have as-
aiiiidnu iIiattlKy ha\i iwiee in their linic mch tlu waves rise above the lopnf tlu- rock.
As llurrfoiv, ill geiuf.il, the aj^itutlons of the si a are only a consecphiiee ol'lhose ol' liic
lir, \vc »na) lorni some ronc.eption oliht Jury ol'the winds, wlii( h aa- here more viulciit
than ill aiij oil hi oilur Lipaii islands. 'I'Ih-^l hurricanes, which lii(|iiiiitly arise on a
•>iiddtn, lay waste tin plain. itioiis, and wruk the barks exposed to their liny. To avoid
IS niiitii as pos>iil»li ihi i fKcK ol' tluir vidknri, tin. houses here are built very low.
The shoii ol .Stioinlxdi luiu ntiiher p<<rt nur harbour, and vessels ran only seek some
little' r(lu)4(. incase <iriu,i\y storms, on the back or the island, L.ii)^i' ships, except
r()mj)eHe(|i)\ necessity, ne\er anchor tin re, I'rom fear of riiiinin|jf «*n sane! banks. 'Vhv.
vessels cm|)lo\ eel by tile natives for their own occupatif)ns are leluccas, which, being
(-•.Mieinely !i,i;;ht, aix- easily drawn upon land, and as easily launched again into the
sea.
Tile fish here are very pie niifiil and large, especially the sea-cels and nutrenas; and,
kluring my short stay in this island, 1 saw a greate r (juanlity taken than dining the whole
time ol'iny eontimianee- in all the other Molian isKs. They are likewise of an excellent
taste. This abiindaiKc lam iiicliiiid to attribute to the \()leaiio, which has continued
ineessaiitly biirnin;;' Irom time- immemoiial ; and which eMeiiding to an immense depth
must ncixssarily communicale a part of its heat to the submarine base of the nu)imlain,
and to the waters that surround it, in the gentle warmth (jf w hieh the lish iind a more
agreeable place of resort, anel perhaps propagate in greater numbers than elsewhere. The
fishery, howe\er, produces here uo branch (jf commerce, and only serves to supply the
isUi'id, principally the foreigners who visit it ; as the natives usually live on salt meat,
ind strangers can rarely fiiul any food so agreeable to their palate as lish.
The veg<.tiljles that grow in Lipari are I'oiind here likewise, and nearly in the same
pifjporlioi). Malmsey is the greatest article of trairu; of the pecjple of Stroinboli ; they
convey it in barrelsto Lipari, where tiny fiuel a ready sale Ibr it. 'I'lu; \ines producing
the passolaand |)assornia grape, and tiiat Irom which the milmsey is maile, grow on the
•sea-shore ; and those for the common wine, on the sides ol" the mountain. Some oi"
ihem arc fastened to trees ; but they are all planted in viiuAards; and, where these are
-lituated high, they are surrounded with thick reeds, which ;it once support and defend
:Iiem from the wind. 'I'he vines form a chain to the norih-easl, anel are all planted in
volcanic sand.
'J'he habitations of the islanders are built in the' same part, and under the same aspect.
They are an irreguiiir assemblage of collages and fishermen's huts. The population of
the islanil amounts to about a thousand persons, ;ind has been for some time' increasing ;
in consefjuence of which exertions have been made to enlarge the cultivable ground by
clearing aw ay tiie woods. The} have no i'ear of tlieir volcano. Neither they nor their
;"athers having ever seen torrents (jf lava burst forth from its furnace and spread desola-
tioiKiround, as has happened from time to lime at I'Luuiand Vesuvius ; they survey its
•rtnw constant fires with an eve of iiKlifierence and sccuritv.
IN r H I I w o r, I CI 1 1 V.
:5li
Mr. nif\v<loii(', in lii> t'nirtliroiijj;!! Sicily ami M:ilt,i, tills ii^ tli.»r, nf)t\vitlv.l:iiiiliii)jli'i
i^rial (l< ^i^t; toxi-.il this vuli ,iiif>, tlu* only ciPc ol' its kiiul, lir «l'>! not vcntiin' to land ;it
Stmmholi tor Tear he slionld Ik* ill used hv tlir iitli.iliitaiits, ulioiit lu In liivid to Ih' tittli:*
otliiTthan savaj^is. On tin {'oiiirary, M. Doloinicu was viry nviliy rtcrival li\ tliciu
'i'!\r trcatnu-iii I rc((i\((l rnnntliun, and tin- r()iiM.r'»atioiis I hid uidi them, likiui.c
. uiivincc ini' that tin. I'.n^lisli traviJlir must jiavi- hnu vi ry ur()n^i;ly iulorimd. Tin.'
chanictiT ortlusc islanders is tuarU ilu same with that ol' tho inhahitants ol' ollur \i|.
liigtit utu distance from, and havin<;no eoinnumication uidi, |)r)|itilons eili( s , I mean
they arc linipli, hoiust.and, ha\ini; hnt few idiasare eoiitcnted with tlu' litlli' they pos
jsess. Their lon^i st journey is i^ually to the city, which, ihonf;;h it is small, a|)|)rars t'>
them wonderfully niagniiicent ; and when they first enter it, they arc ani-etcd lik'
UaiUc^ rustle :
" Noil ;\ltritmiiti suipidu '.i tmin
L« Moiti.ai.ti'o, c riiiiiiaiuld .iiumii'u,
QikiikIo ruituy c kchctico »' imnba."
" 'I'lnit tlio nidi' clowi» wln\ for tlu Urtt limr. viuw^
Ol :^(iiiK tliiDiur^l (.ipii.il tin: \vi mIiIi .mil iiiiilc,
Uuseus with upt it niuuili. in vvniidii' s/iM."
A little above the base of the mountain, on the east side, in a small s|)rin},% the st'aniy
.suppiv of fresh water from which would he inideqiiaie to the wants of the inhabitants,
were it not for a more copious and inexhaustible stream at a liltle distance from it, which
furnishes them with water to dispel their thirst, and without which tiny etjuld note.\ist,
when, in sumnurtime, the rain-water they have preserved in their eisterns is entirely
exhausted. M. Dolomieii, u ho visited this fountain, siipposis it tf) owe its ori;^in to
evaporation caused in the mountain by volcanic he.it and succeeded by cf)udens.itioii at
a certain height, it not apj)carin)i^ to him possible that this sprinjij should havt its reser-
voir in the hijj^her parts of tlu; mountain : as these are composed of sand ami porous
stotics, and therefore areimlit to retain water. This hypothesis is t ertainly both inj^e-
nious and |)robable ; but may nf)t another be e(|ually prob.iijje u hii h su|)|)o:-.es this sprinpj
to be supplied from tlie summit of the island, wIkic the earth bein[.j sandy and full of
pores, the rains easily penetrate it and collecting in the cavities below form a mass of
watirs at all times suflicient to supply the sprint;? Ac(x)rdin^ to this hypothesis, the
reservoir will not be on the surface, but in the internal part of the mountain. The ob-
jeetion that the heat of the vtjlcano Moidd reduce such a body of water to vapour will br
found to be of little weight, since the s|)rini; is more th;in a mile distant from the crater ;
and il is very probable that the activity of the lire does not exti. iid s) fir ; indeed it seems
almost certain ; lor we do not perceive for a consider.ible space around it, nof.vithstand-
inj^ihc porosity of the earth, the sli^i^htest trace or indiiation of those fumes which arc
tlv most certain indication of subt*.irant an lires. In fine, the orij^in of this sj)rini;,
which never fails, can (jiily be explained in the same manner as thai of lither fountains
of Itesh water mother islands.
We find here no stationary birds whatever. Attempts have been several times made,
but in vain, to naturali^^e partrid,i;( s here. The experiment has succeeded Ix tier witli
rabbits. Those fornti rh broiiLjIit have multiijlii d anil continue to multiply ; livinj; in
their natural wild state, in the wooily part of the island. The musket andihe ferret are
their only enemies.
The birds of passage are the same as at Lipari. When I was at Stroinboli in the be-
giiiTiing of October, I saw three swallows (lliniiido rustica, l^in.) flying over the island;
and several :jf dte inh;ibitaiits assured me that tinty freijuently re-appuar in winter, when
a warm wind has rendered the air wanner than ordinarv.
I
251
fi !■ A I, I, A N Z A N I
TI'. AVE LS
III. \'i'i.i: \N( 'I'his island is not inhabited, nor is it rcmcmbcrc;'. that it ever was*.
It is mori' than probable that its ntimcrous t ructions have occasioned it to be thus dc-
scrtiil. It is not, however, more than a century since it uasof considerable utility to the
peojjlc of Lipari IVoni the quantity of sul|)hur and sulphate f;''aluniine (alum) they pro-
ruled from it ; brin!i;inp; away annually, if we admit the estimate of Pietro Campis,* to
the anu/unt o!' lour thousand cantaraf (if the fornur, and six hundred of the latter. Wc
lia\e already meniioned the sulphur of this island, and the difficulties with which it is
proeurid, in Chap. XIII. Sulphate of ahimine still abounds here; but the extraction
oi it is aiiindcd with the same dillienlties as that of the former mineral. These arc oc-
casioned i)y the numerous sulphureous J'umes, and the heat, which exhale from the sub-
terranean caverns, and which are found the stronjjjest in the places where that salt most
abounds. I am, therefore, (A' opinion tiiat, at the time these substances were dug here,
ihi.' state ofihe \dh:ano must have been dililrent.
'J'Ik people of Lip.iri might, however, if I am not mistaken, derive another more sta-
ble ad\antaij,j of u hich they have hitherto been iij^norant, or have nei^kcted, from this
di strtid island. This \voukl be obtained from the productive plantations that might be
madi: in the -iouthern ])arts of the island, to which, f(jr a great length of time, the fire has
ne\tr extended its injuries. This part of tiie island consists of a softened and half-
eruniblcd lava, similar to that of Stromboli, where vines thrive so well ; nor can I dis-
cover wh\ tluy should not succeed equally well in Vulcano. The same idea has oc-
curred to Trovatini ; and the bishop of I/ipari, whom I have before mentioned with the
respect which is f.\u<:, told me that he had thoughts of attempting the cultivation of Vul-
cano !)y sowing c(;rn, and planting vin^s and fruit-trees.
'I'he bishop likewise immunieated to me another idea which I did not expect, • He
said he had conceived the design of ijuildinga seminary in that island, for the education
of tuehe youths, sons of the peasants, who should be brought up to the service of the
cathedral, and lA' the jiarisli churchf s of the other Kolian isles. He very justly thought
that these \ouih.>, having been born and educated in the islands, would be better fitted
for, and more attentive to, the discharge of such duties. Whether since the death of
this pre late any attenqjts have been made to carry his useful plans into execu'aon, I can-
not say. 'I'lie little disposition which those who succeed to any office usually shew to
eonipl' te tlu- project' f t'leir predecessors, iixlmes me to tl;ink it very doubtful whether
\ ulcano will not si'!l reijijin in its former deserted and barren state.
IV. SAMNi;....i)ic!yi/i< , or, as it is at present called, le Saline (or the salt-j)its) is
very different froiu \'ul(; mo. This island in many parts lias its ski»ls covered with cot-
tages, and abounds in vines, the grapes of which yield wines not inferior to those of
I/i|)ari.
At a little distance from the sea, near Santa Maria, a continual spring of fresh water
rises. The gn at heal of many sueli s[)riugs is usually an unequivocal sign, if not of the
exist' nee(jf a volcano, at least of subienanean eH'ervescences. This, however, when I
examined it by the thermometer, apjieared to Ijc two and a half degrees cooler than
ilie temperature of tl;e atmosi)here..i: It I'ormerl} issued nearly on a level with the water
* Disc.^iHi Isimicf) dclhi Cittu di LipLii.
+ Tin- NiiipoliUiii riLiiiiiia i.>r (|uiiuiil is of t\v(j kiiuis; the j:;rosso, or ihc t^ri.'ut,aiul tin; piccolo, or tlie
liulc. 'J'iif i^iTiit ( :uit;ii;i coiitiiiiiH l(K) r()toli,an(l 3 rololiniakeS pounds 4 ovmcfs Neapolitan weight,
iln' pi)\iii.. c<)iii>i!!iin^ IJ oimcts. 'J'hi' liulc c.iiitiii'a (oniiiins only loo sm h pounds. T.
} 1 t.iiall liL'i't: (jhhcrvi- lliat cxc^'pliii;.!; some plitccs in Sironiboli, VultMuo, Lip;iii, and u spring in
r.'.li' ud.u 1 ni vcf <()ul'i p' iTtivc, Uuimjii I visjd the tlui'n.onu'U i', tluit Uic Eolian isles, otlitrtiiTum-
^tancus 1)1 in;!; tin- siitnc, urc \Va)nu:r ilum Mtssiua, th<' lo^tst-^ of Culubviit, and other nciijhboui'injf
'•■mn'.nv.-. ■vi,!r.h ji- noi vrl'uiiic
IN r n K TWO s 1 1; f LI i". o .
■2:^.
vet* was.,
tluis dc-
ity to the
ihcy pro-
npi^
to
tcr. We
liich it is
X traction
2 are oc-
the sub-
salt most
lug here,
more sta-
[Vom this
might be
\e fire has
unci half-
an I (lis-
I has oc-
wiih the
n of Vul-
ect, • He
Lclucation
ice of the
y thought
tter fitted
; death of
m, I can-
y shew to
il whether
h-pits) is
I with cot-
0 those of
"esh water
not of the
^r, when I
ooler than
1 the water
ccolo, orthe
itaii weight,
ii spring in
:!.( rcirrnm-
L'ighbominjf
of the sea, wii!i which it frcfuicntly mixed, and tims became almost useless to the i:i
habitiints; but this ii. convenience has within these few years been remedied, by a \u--
tical section Ix ing nuide in the shore ; in coiihetiuence of which it i\ow issues iiftctn ket
above the level of the sea. It is very abundant, and throws up li\e streams of water,
each about an inch in diameter, which is verj extraonlinary in a volcanic island ; at least
in any of those of Lipari.
This plentiful spring, there can be no doubt, is sui)plied by rain-water, ;^s, in the
present time, the opinion that fountains a"d rivers are immediate ly derived from the
sea, is entirely exploded. The rains, however, by which it is nourished are not to be
sought in remote coimtries ; they can only be the; ic which fall on the island. It miist at
the same time be r^nfessed, as i was assured by the natives, that there has sometimes
been no rain there u>v nine months, and yet this spring, in all th.at time, did n(jt ap-
pear to sufler the smallest diminution. In what manner then shall we account for this,
if we ascribe its origin to rain-water? I can see no absurdity in the supposition, on the
contriu-v, it appears to mc extremely probable, that, in the internal parts of an island
which, 'like this, is the work of fire, tliere may be immense caverns that may be filled
with water by the rains, and that in some of these w hich are placed al)0\ e the spring,
the water may always continue at nearly the same height, and a long dr(night conse-
quently produce no alteration in the spring. By a similar hyjiothesis, which does not
appear to mc at all forced or unnatural, we have explained uImjvc the origin of the spring
which continually flows in Stromboli.
I have already mentioned that this island received the natnc of Saline (salt-pits) from
the muriate of soda (sea-salt) which is obtained in it. A brief accoimt of this jirodnct,
and the place where it is procured, may not be unacceptable to my readers. Close to
the shore, on the south-east side of the island, there is a lake of about a mile in circuit,
separated from die sea only by a bank of la\ a, not formed by art, but by the sea itself,
which lias raised it by the beating of its wa\'es. It appears indubitable, that this lake was
once a small bay or creek of the sea, which has been shut out by the accumulatiua of the
lava, though its waters are still admitted by secret channels ; since, notwithstanding the
continual evaporation, the lake remains full. In consecjuence of this continual evapora-
tion, however, the water in it becomes salter than that of the sea, and in conser fiencc
forms a crust of muriate of soda (sea-salt) on its banks. The lake has every aj.pear-
ancc of being very ancient, but had been long neglected ; until in the year 1750 an at-
tem])t was made to render it more advantageous, under the direction of a native oi'
Trapani, who was unacquainted w ith the nature of salt works. He first drained the lake,
and then dividing it into thirty S(|uare pits, each separated In" high banks, let in the sea-
water to a certain height, which gradually evaporating by the heat of the i-un, which in
summer is dierc very great, left on die sides of the banks, and at the bottom u stratum of
salt. This method' has been continued since, and the salt collected twice or thsice every
year, according as the heat of the season more or less f.i\ours the evaporation. The
quantity procured is suflicient to supi)iy all the Li|)ari i^Liuds.
The inhabitants from whom 1 received this account related to me at the same time a
fact that excited my surprise. The sea in a violent storm making its way into the lake,
can-ied widi it a number of fish of the cephalus or chub species, which continued to live
in the lake as in their n itive element. Tiicy multiplied very fast, notwithstanding die
water by a new evaporation was rendered extremely salt; and when tlu}- were alter-
vvards taken out, they were found to be very fat and well-flavoured. This the more
surprised me, because some years before, in anot.ier part of the Mediterranean, that
is, where th.. river Magra falls into the sea, near Carrara, I had observed this species of
J..0
srAiLANZANTr; travet.
riihdiliglit ill water almost fresh ; leaving the open sea for the mouth of the river, and
appearing to seek those places in which the sea- water, mixed with that of the river, and
U'sssaltncss ; to which j)laces the '"-"lermen resorted to catch them. Other species of
sea-fisii \vitiioutnum!)erof a very '.ifcrent nature, not btinp able to live in water which
is Salter than that of the sea. Thus near Chiozza, in the Venetian slate, I have found
some \\ hicli presently did when put in water saturated with muriate of soda (sea-salt)
nearly the same with t' at of the lake above-mentioned, and prepared for the same use.
Such a difi'erencc of temperament in animals formed to inhabit the sea must doubtless
be the result of a ditlerence of organization, though we arc ignorant in what it consists,
less perhaps from the dilliculty of discovering it, than from our not having directed our
inquiries towards this part of the animal ccconomy.
\ . VI. I'ELicuDA and Alicl da.. ..These two islands arc the last of those of Lipari
towards the west. In Felicuda tlic houses are scattered over the whole island, which
contains about six hundred and fifty inhabitants ; but in Alicuda, the population of
which is not so great, they are built only at the south and «outh-east end of the island ;
it being in fact impossible to build them any where else, the rest of the island consisting
only ol ( lifis, and crags, steep juxcipices and inaccessible rocks. It is observable that
these houses, or rather cottages, are not erected at the shore, or base, of these motmtain-
ous islands, but about half way up on the side which has a very steep declivity, where
likewise stand the houses of the two parish priests. I at first was unable to conceive why
a situation so difficult to reach, from the steepness of the ascent, had been preferred for
their houses to the lower parts of their islands, which is much less steep and nearly level
with the sea. But I was told by both the peasants and the priests, that this situation
had been chosen by their ancestors because that formerly Felicuda and Alicuda, being
the most remote irom the principal island, were greatly exposed to the attacks of the
Turks, especially the Tunisian corsairs, who frequently landed there in the night, sur-
prised the islanders while asleep in their houses near the shore, plundered them of their
goods, and carried them away into sla\ cry, as they have sometimes made similar preda-
tory descents, in the present times, on the coast near Genoa. The people of Alicuda
and Felicuda on this account built their houses where the danger was less. The Eolian
islands are indeed still liable to such visits from their African neighbours. It is true
the latter do not always succeed in their design, but sometimes pay dearly for their teme-
rity ; } et it is necessar\ for the islanders to take every precaution, on which account there
isaccntinel stationed on the Monte deila Guardia at Lipari, who is on the v.atch night
and day. This, however, does not deter the barbarians from frequently stretcliing
over to those islands ; where they lie in uait under a rock, a cape, or a point of land, till
they see some small vessels, when they dart like vultures on their prey incapable of resist-
ing their lorce, and setting their sails, ii the wind be favourable, cr <;}bouring with
their oars, arc soon out of sight of the islands and in the open sea ; where it little avails
the unhappy wretches they luive nuide shues to lament their fate or sue for mercy. I
will conless that, irequcntly while making the circuit of these islands, I was not with-
out my Icars that 1 might in this maiuicr be carried to make observations of a very dif-
ferent kind on the neighbouring coasts of Ai'rica.
B<'5;ides Indian figs and some oli\ e trees, these two islands contain many vines, from
the grape of which a good wine is made, though it is not malmsey, nor the grape the
passola or passoliua.
The corn grown here is barley and wheat ; of which, together with the grapes, there
is produced in Alicufla to th*- value ol" about three thousand Neapoliti'n crowns; and
nbout one third more in Felicuda. This quantity of corn is sutlicieut for the support
IN IHE IWO SICILIES. -0.
ul Alicuda; but the [jroduce of Fclicudii is nut su flic icnt lor it; the Liparcse, who arc
ywiKTS of a nunibt-T of the small farms there, carryini,^ away a considerable quaiuity.
The industry and patience of the people of Alicuda is incredible : they do not lose
an inch of tht'i^^round they cultivate. There is scarcely a tract of cultivable land of a
few perches in circuit, which is not interrupted with points of rocks, masses of lava.
clefts, and crat:,s : yet all these tracts they render productive : they turn and break them
with pointed spades, and render every fciot of them fruitful ; on which account the Li
parese say, jestingly, that the people of Alicuda till their lands with the point of a knife-
It is c< rtain, at the aame time, that in all the Kolian isles Uktc is no better bread than
that made in Alicuda. I have tasted it, and canattirm that it is most excellent,
Fewlisharc taken in these islands because there are but few fishermen, and these have
no nets, but only use the hook and line. 'Ihe whole number of boats, likewise, either
used for fishing, or to pass from one island to the oUicr, is only five or six in Felicuda,
and three or four in Alicuda. When they no longer want to use them, they draw them
up out of the water on the dry beach, where the sea cannot reach them, till they again
have occasion for them. One or two of these boats usually belong to the parish-priest,
who not only makes use of them in fishing, but for other i)urposi.s ; as to goto market
to Lipari, or to accommodate a stranger, in which case he will nut refuse to act as pilot,
or, on an emergency, as rower. Necessity, the mother of industry, impels these good
priests to endeavour to find employment, as they could scarcely live, however wretch-
edly, one half the year, on their ecclesiastical re\enues, which amount to little more
than twelve sequins annually for each island.
At Felicuda, when the husband or wife died, it \\as a custom considered as a kind
of sacred duty for the nearest relations to follow the bod} to the gra\e with loud and
immoderate lamentations, and, as soon as the obsequies weie finished, to throw them-
selves upon the corpse, embrace it, kiss it, speak to it with a loud voice, and give com-
mission lor the other ^\•orld. This ridiculous practice, w hich is not modern, has been
abolislied by the jjresent priest.
In neither of these islands is there a single spring (jf fresh \\ater. The inhabitants arc
therefore obliged to have recourse to the rain-water they can preserve in cisterns ; and
when it happens not to rain ibr several months, their distress is extreme.
The people of Alicuda and Felicuda, in fact, oi' all the Lolian isies, boast that their
islands are exempt from every kind of serpents; and, indeed, in all my excursions in
them, I never met with one. The reason of this evidently i.-j because the food necessary
forthesj creatures is wanting: diey feed principally on insects and other small animals,
of which I found here very few. The scarcity of these latter is likewise to be accounted
for on the same -principle ; as it is known that they feed on vegetables chiefly of the her-
baceous kind, which in these islands are extremely rare.
Of other animals of the amphiljious kind I only met with the gray and green lizard
(Laci rta agilis, Lin.) and with resjuct to insects, only some grasshujipers and the lion-
ant (Myrmeleon formicurius, Lin.) which are found in great numbers among the duat
cf the pumices and lavas.
I'he people of these islands may likewise boast of an advantage iueomparably more
HTiportant ; 1 mean, that their sovereign, in consideration of th.ir poverty, his exempted
them Irom every kind of taxation, only paying tythes to the bishop, from which how-
ever the peo[)le of Lipari are exempted.
It is incredible, at the same time, how contented these islanders are amid all iheir
poverty. Ulysses, perhaps, cherished not a greater love for his Ithaca, than they bear
to their Eolian rocks, which, wretched as they may appear, they uould not exchange
VOL. V. L L
^tmt
258
U I' A 1. 1- A N 7. A y i h I K A V K L S
!or tlifFortiiiKUc Islimls. Frcqiu-ntlv have I enured tlicir huts, \\W\cU scoiu like th(
ntsts of birds Iuiiik to the ( lilVs. Till y aiv liatiud of pi.a s (;l l;iv » ill joined tof^'cthcr,
..(lually (li.s'itiii(-- oi Onuiiucnt within and uiihfuit, and scarcily a(huit ii I'ctblc uncertain
lif^ht, liU some- glooniv caves. Sonutinus 1 have Ixcn prisuil at their wretched meals,
^i\ mit in coarse' dishes, or on the bare !.m.\nid on which they sat, and consisting of black
barlev bread and wild fruits, and sonieiinKs, In way of dainty, some salt-iish, and pure
water to (lueneh their thirst. AttuKlin- only to the first impression of the scene, I
ihouf^ht I beheld the perfect ima^a' of wretchedness and misery ; but on more mature
consideration, 1 discovered in these rude hnts, and in the midst of diishard fare, an en-
viable hai)i.iiiess, which, I doubt is not to be found in the palaces of the great, or
anionii: tlu, dv licious viands of royal tables. A cheerfulness and perfect tranciuillity shone
hi die* countenances of lliese poor people, and evidently possessed their huirls. Their
ruinous cottages, which must be viewed with pity and contempt by the rich «nd great,
TO ih.eni were dear; and the food, which the luxurious would have rejected us insipid or
i.auseous, lo iheir palates had an exfjui^ite llavour. But the frugal meals of these islanders
ure always seasoned with a sauce w Inch never ucc(jmpanics the dishes at the tables of the
;''rcat, I mean hunger and thirst, which render every meat delicious and every beverage
grateful. The h.lMjur of their hands and the sweat of their brow secure an ouiuisUe
relish i'or duir scanty fare, n- • i r
As to the content and tranquillilv of these islanders, and the affection ihey bear their
i.aln e ecHiiitrv, I do not think 1 should greatly err, were I lo ascribe it to the happy lem-
peralure of the climate, and the (piality of the air, which, when pme, so much con-
iributes to maintain in us the proper harmonv between the solids and die fluids, or the
:.tate of perfect health. A proof of this I experienced in mjself. Notu ithstanding the
continual and great latigues I underu-ent in my excursions among those rocks, and not-
withstanding my advanced age, I fell in my self an energy and vigour of body, an agility
and liveliness of mind, and'a certain auinuuion of my whole frame, which I had expe-
rienced no where else, e xccpt on the sununit of Mount Etna. In countries infested widi
impure air and thick vapours, 1 have never been able to apply m\ self to my liivourite
:,iudies immediaielv afier dinner, but under this sky, which is so rarely overclouded
with vapours, 1 could write on the spot, at any time, a part of those observations I am
now about to present to the public. How iii.mense the difl'ereuce between this most
pure and almost celestial air, and the foetid and foggy aimo:,phere of some ot the low
plains of l.ombardv, surrounded by stagnant and fihhy waters and unhealthy rice-
grounds, producing continual clouds and fogs in w inter, and obstinate fevers in sumuicr ;
Shere die spirits are depressed, and rendered dull; and whereto compUte the latalouge
of ills and inconveniences, innumerable hosts of frogs, in Uic warm season bod i by night
and du\', deafen the ear with their incessaiU cruakings !
»N THE TViiO SlClLliir
Jjf
iikc till
nccrtain
J mctils,
(jf black
iiid pure
scene, I
mature
:, an cn-
rrcat, or
Ly slionc
Tlit'ir
d great,
isipid or
i^l^lnders
Lhol" the
leverage
;xquisitc
ear their
)py icin-
ich con-
s, or the
iding the
and not-
LiM agility
lad expe-
sied with
lavourite
rclouded
ons I am
his most
r the low
ihy rice-
suniuier ;
(•atalouge
by ujght
( IIAITF.R XXV.
STATK I\ WHICH THC. AUriiOIl I'Ob'N'J) Mi.SSIW AITER THI" l. AUTHQUAKt
1\ ITH.; \( ( OUN'l" Ol rilK CALAMITOUS ACCH)1:NTS which IH.ll'.L I'll AT
UNrollTUNATi: ( ITY.
Gri.';it luniilKM'softlM; jx oplc of Scyll.i drowned liy tiir w.ivcs of the Sf.\....A lont^ raiif!;c of polacos ad-
joiiiii!!,' to till h,nl)()iir, uliuosl ail destroyed. ...Frodii.rious niunhcr of edifices within the oily ( itlier
tlirowii down, or on the point of faHin;^...AVi)oden sheds erecU-d t)y the people of Messina to lodpe
in till the houses could l)e re-built. ...Injurious effects produced by fear which had seized entirely
on the minds of the inhabiiiuits.... Account of the different dreadful shocks which laid waste the.
. city, and circumstances by which they proceeded a;id ac((jnii)anied... .Other shocks followed, but
successively wt aker....The huildin)j;s of wliich the fo-'Mdation was i!;ranile least daMia:';ed....'l'lu- n»ole>
which was constructed iinjround not sufliciently solid, entirely curried uway and buried in the a«a
....Knun\eration of the more ennsiderable edifices which were rediued to ruins. ...Incalculal^h; losses
sustained by the destruction ol the nujuuments of ilie arts, and the property buried un<ler the rtiins,
or consumed by the fire:s which broke out after the eiirllujuake in ditVerent parts of the city. ...Ex-
ertions of the kini^- of the Two Sicilies to restore Messina toils former nourishing- state.
IN the forenoon of the 14th of October, I left the Kolian isles, luid sailed from Li-
pari, in a felucca, for Messina, which is distant from that island tliirty miles, but where I
did not arrive till the middle of the next day ; partly from having stoi)ped some time to
makc(^bser\ .tions on the granites of Melaz^ij, und from the want of wind, which obliged
the mvirineri to have recourse to their oars. With these islands I was to dismiss every
idea of volcanos either still l)urning or extinct, as that i)art of Sicily to which I was ap-
proaching exhil^ilid not the least trace of that nature. 1 do not mean to say that at dif-
ferent times it may not have sulllrtd In their destructive i fleets, if it be true, as I be-
lieve it to be, that partial earthquakes, that is, those which are felt through a not Aery
extensive tract of country, and at a small distance iiom a volcano, originate either me-
diately or immediately i'roni that volcano. In fact, what island has suftered more in
this manner than Sicily, and that from noin-isliing within its bosom the Etnean confla-
grations "? When I travelled in those parts, the dreadful ellects of the earthquake of 1783
<rtTe the common subject of discourse. On my entering, in the felucca, the strait of
Messin:!, some of the people who wxre with me jxiinted out to me the shore of Scvlla
where a great number oi' peojjle were drowned at that calauiitous time. A dreadful
siiock of an eartlKpiake took place, about noon, on the 5ih of February of the above
year, which terrilying the ])e()ple of Scvlla, they llul in crowds to the shore, when, about
eight o'clock the foll<)\'. ing night, according to the Italian reckoning,- another violent
shock succeeded, in which the waves rose so higii that they covered the whole shore,
and out of more tlian a thousand persons who w ^rc- there collected, among whom was
die prince of Scylla himself, not one escaped to nlate and mourn the fatt 'A' the rest.
The furious waves, rushing into the strait, penetrated to the harbour of Messina, ant!
nearly sinik the vessels tlure at anchor.
\V hen I arrived op'positc to the city, I b gan to see the iatal and ruinous effects of t|||ti
dreadful eartlujuake. The curvatun *M rU h.irl)ourwas formerly tml)ellishul f(>r the
extent of more than a mile, »«*. =* continued range of super!) palaces, three stones in
* Aibout «tt,<- in the morning.
i L 2
tkJk
'JfiO
r.VAM.ANUANl's THAVriS
lui}j;ht, usually called the Pilnzxata, inhabited by mtirhants and ntlu'r persons of opn.
Iciicc, u hieh lornu'd a kind of superb aniphitiicatn-. The upper story aiul a p.'.it cf the
second of these buildings were cntirel} thnmn down, tlu' louer greatly torn and il una-
ged.and the >\ hole of tliis extensive pile deserted by its inhabitants.
When I entered the city, every object w hieh met iTiy view tended to awaken melan-
choly sentiments and commiseration. Kxceptinj:; sonu' of the wiiler and more freqn-. nt-
cd streets, the rest were all heaps of ruins, either piU d up on eaeh side, or scatter d in
the middle, and renderinp^il impossible to pass them. Many ofthc houses were still in
the same ruinous state in w hieh they had been left by the eardupiake ; some entirely
destroyed and le\(lled with the ground, others half thrown down, and others still stand-
ing, or rather hanging in the air, merely from the support a{Vt)rded by the ruins around
them. Those which had escapi d this destruction appeared as if preserved by a miracle,
lorn and rent as diey were. The cathedral was anujng the numl)er of tliesc fortimate
edifices. This is a sj)acioiis building, of Gothic architecture. Its interior has sufiercd
little or no damage. It is embellished with a number of columns of granite brought
from an ancient Grecian temple, which once stood on the Faro (or strait of Messinu) and
with elegant Mosaic work wrought widithe most beantifnl jaspers of Sicily.
The destruction of so great a number of houses as were thrown down by this dread-
ful eartlKjuake obliged the peojile of Messina to take refuge in wooden sheds built for
the occasion, many of w hich were still standing when I was there. Thev had begun,
however, to rebuild the houses, but on a ditii rent plan from the old ones. Tliey had ob-
served that the highest had sufllred most, and tliat, in the violent shocks of the earth-
quake, the beams, by continually and forcibly beating against the walls, had completed
the ruin ol the edifice. 'I'hey therefore resolved to build liuin lower, ; nd to construct
ihe wood-work in such a matmer tli;'.t, iu case of a similar visitation, the shock should be
lUstained by the whole ol the building, and not by a part only. 'I'his pree.uuion, it is
evident, must be of the greatest utility, should the city again sufllr u calamity of diis
nature.
Though it was now nearly the sixth year since that dreadful disaster, considerable
remains oi the dread, eonsttrnation, and, I may stiy, stupei'action, which usually aecom-
])any great terrors, were still manifest in the minds of the peoi)le of Messina. 'I'hey had
still present in their memory all the circumstances (if tint dreadi'ul time ; nor could I
listen to the narrative- they ga\ e of them w ilhont shuddi ring.
That ancient cil} , which Iiad so npi atedly sulli red, w as not destroy<'d by one but seve-
ral earihf|uakes, wluch lasted in successive shocks, from the 5tn to the 7th of Febrnary
I7»S3. The most destructive was that of the 5lh, but an interval of some minutes elaps-
ing between the hrst and second shock, die inhabitants had time to epiit their houses,
and fly to the open plain. Hence the number of those w ho w ere killed was not propor-
tionate to the (juantit} of ruins. They did not exceed eight hundred.
In a memoir relative to the earthcjuakes in thatjjart of Calabria opposite to Messina,
which happeneel at the same time, it is said that, belore the iirst shock, the dogs in the
city began to howl violently, and were killed In public order. Oi\ my incpiiringof the
j)eople oi the countrj, ihey assured me that tl>e fact was false, and that no other pheno-
menon preceded this calamity but the llight of the sea-mew s and some other birds from
the sea to the momuains, as \\\\.\ usuah) do on the approach of a tempest. A very
violent noise, resembliiig that of a number of carriages rattling over u stone-bridge,
was the first symptom, while at the Siuue time athiekeioud arose from CuLbria, which
was (he centre of the earthepiak<*, the propagation «)l which wuh successive!} appareiu by
the fall of buildings Iroju the point of the Faro to the v ity of Messina, as if at that point
IN kiii: lU'o sic'iMt:
ad I
IS
it r.( the
id cliiiui-
I) imlan-
aqii-. \it-
itt« r (I in
re still in
cniiroly
ill stand-
around
miracle,
brtunate
suffered
brought
lislnu) and
lis drcad-
i built for
id begun,
V Iiud ol)-
thc carth-
:onipletcd
construct
sliould be
lion, it is
ity of this
nsiderabic
ly aeoom-
'I'hey had
or could I
■ hut sevc
I'ehruarv
nes elaps-
ir houses,
L)t projjor-
I Messina,
ogs in the
ring of the
ler pheno-
)irds from
A wry
lie -bridge,
iria, which
jparent by
that point
a mine had been fired uliieli extended alf)ng the shore and contnuied mto the cit) . The
shock uas most violent, and the motion extremely irregular. In no part were any fire
or sparks obhtrNC'd. The ground along the shore opened in fissures parallel to it ; and
though in some places these continued more than a month, the dread and consternation
with which every one was seized, prevented any attempt to measure them.
After the first shock, which, as wc have said, tof)k place about noon, on the .'Jth of
February, the earth continued ine(ssantly to trc niblr, sometimes with a slighter and
sometimes a more violent motion; till at eight tlu' following nigiit another tnmendous
shock, which was fatal to the people of Scylla, compK ted the destruction of the remain
der of the fabrics of Messina. The eartlKjuakes did not cease till the 7th, when ar.othei
dreadful shock spent its rage upon the ruins.
From that time till my arrival at Messina, shocks have continued to be felt, but gra-
dually diminishing in lorce and nuniber; and in 1789 and 17i>0, only four or five were
observed, ahd those so extremely feeble, that, in any other country less afiected by fear
and alarm, they might not have been noticed, or not suj)pose(lto be eartlujuakis. *
The loss was inmiense, and is diflicult to calculate. Considering the buildings alone,
it may Ije asserted without hesitation, that, dividing them into foiu- parts, two were level
led with the ground ; the third half laid in ruins, and tlie fourth greatly damaged.
Among the latter were the houses situated on the decliviiy of tin.- hills, which have for
their foundation granite, as we shall notice ag;iin in anf)lh(r place. (C'liap. XXIX.)
Those which were most conxpletely ruined, and lik( w ise the first to fill, were such as
stood in the plain, and especially on the curvature of the harliour, on a ground less solid,
as it had been formed by the washing and deposiiions of tire sea. The mole of the har-
bour, which extended more than atnile in Kiigth, and \\as resorted to for the beauty of
the prospect, was entirely swallowed up l)y the sea, so tlu.t no \ eslige of it remained to
point out where it once was.
Among the ruined edifices the most considerable was the above-mcntioneel Palaz::ata,
called likewise the maritime theatre ; the royal palace ; the palace of the senate, of no-
ble architecture ; the exchange of the merehants ; the eek hrated college, with the
temple annexed; the church and professional-house of the ex-jesuils; the arclibishop's
palace, with the basilica of San. Niccolo; the seminary of the clergy, the hall of the tri-
bunals, the church of the annunciation of the Theatiiies ; that of the Carmelites, and of
the priory of the Hierosolymitans, with several other fal^-ics both saereel and profane;
without mentioning the palaces of the nobks and opident citizens, ail of an elegant ar-
chitecture.
It is impossible to estimate the loss suffered by the destruction of the numerous mo-
numents of the arts, libraries, and galleries o pictures, with which Messina was em-
bellished, where the iniitative arts had long flourished.
* In the followiufj years, however, tartluniukts iigain renewed the terrors of tlie pi-fiple. The fol-
lowing is the cxlruct of u Icller from the ahb.ilc Ciiaiio to iiic, nl'ihc I lih of .M.iy I7yj :
" Yustcrday wc liad a whole day, as 1 may say, lull of i ailh(jiiakes. I counted as many as tliiriy
shocks, but all slight, and wiiich occasion! d no damatrc."
I embrace with the utmost pleasure this opporluiuiy of thvis publicly exprcssiui; my gratitude to
anil doing justice to the merits ofthis my illnsiriuus IVicml, the Mi^^iiu se nuhleinan abovL-mention-
cd.aiul whom 1 shall again liave occasion to cite.
As he is versed in the studies of philosophy and natural history, he luul the gooilness to accompany
me in my excursions in different parts of his cotuUry, and Ids scientific assistance was of the greatest
advantage to me. This assistance he not only afforded me when {siesent, but even when absent, lur-
iiishing me with various local notices whicjj might render my accounts relati\e to those countries
more interesting ; and his industry and cirrnuispeclion in the < xumination of naim e, ;md his sincej-e
love of Uic i'lvesiigatiou of truth, leave no doubt of the accuracy of his oljscrvalions.
JOU
!;r.\Lr,.;N?..\Nr I ni.\vr.t.j
Kqunlly inniossil)!' i>. it to c.ilculitc tlu' loss sustaim d by the v;iln;il)l('itKrtsth;it ucrc
buiiid iKMcatli tlic iiiius, or Unriiid io iIr liits \\]\n:U at'iLr the (.ntli(|ii;»kf hrokv out
ill various |);»ris of thi- cit\ . \\\' must also ucKl the t'\|a'iicc ol' Ijuikliii^' the uoodtii
hhtds and huts iiiccssary tnshtltir the inh iM'.iiits, and lor th<' n cc ption ol such move
ablcs or comiuodiiiis as had I)c'cn savul liuiu the ruins ; uhi( Ii (.xpincc was (.xtrciucly
preat from the hi^h price to whieh ail t!u.' UKiteriais for hulldinj;- imruediatily rose, and
ll 'H-i » ua)4;ew refjuin d l>y worknitu olivtry kind.
'twilhstaudinj;- all these losses and i s pence s, which must greatly have imj)over-
isli country, not a single merchanl bieaine a h.iiikrupl , a circumstance which
redounds hi^hl\ to die honour of Messina, as it is certain that no event can hap[)tn wiuch
furnishis a more plausible ixcuse to the IVaudident dialer than an eartlujuake.
The kinij;' ol'the Two Sicilies has omitted no nuansthat may contribute to t!ie resto-
ration of Mi ssina. He hasexemptid it from all jjublic im])osts, given considerable:
sums from his own purse, f;ranted a free j)ort, jmisdiciion of nuif^istrates, kc. Vet the
inu'iiense losses the cit\ has sulfired, notwithstanding every assistance, cannot be repair
cd under a great length of lime.
The buildings have since been considerably increased and improved, so that moir
tlian one half ol'the city is now rebuilt, and the people ha\e left the sheds and taken
possession of the new houses.
It appeajedlo nu that this concise relation of the late dreadful eartlujuakes at Messi-
na, and their consecpieiices, would be acceptable to tlie curienis and learned reader. Wc
will now procied to the descrii>tion of odier objects deserving attention inUiis c.elcbratid
strait and its iuoiiiUaii\ous environs.
N I 1(1. :,\ 0 Mi;il,»i'
}i
rnAiTKK \\\r
oHsr.iivArioNs <)\ s( vi,i-\ and < ii \uvMnis
\ kind ol rrmfiisi i) noisf,liki' tlic batkiiii'; of (!mi;s, Ir nl on;i]ipr<» ichiiii^ tlu' nv k r,(S< \ll.i. pvodiuttl
by ilu'diisliiiii; III ilic w.im.s olllir siM....liiuvrcs lii.^lily n siinhliiiiv n.aUir< rvliihiuil \<y llfiiinr ;• ul
Virj^il in tin ir i)Lrs(tniti(:;iti<)iis of S( ylLi....Tln.' iii>\iiuran» lofiliis nx k Uiv siiiur at prisciit us in the
tin\c of ilu- (irctk jhm t,...Tlic st .1 llii'rt dI' the sinif liviijlit as forin< ily....(tr<Mt d.OH;r\- of d.isluhf,
on till' roik of Si yll.i «liin llic ciiircMi runs from soii'li to imrih, ami iuiprtnovis souili wind hlows
at llu" siune tinic.,..Mariin'i's at Mi-.sinai wlio^ir bniiiu ss it is to as>.ist >c-isidsin (i.iii:!;«r....Slii{»s<.'asily
wrecked witluint this assistance, l!ion^;l» tlio^;^ wlio .ti it tluin sliould Ix; very r!t;i it sivkmcn....
Ti inpLst obsiivid by tlif aiillior in tin- SU'uit of Mc^tiina, and thf roiiray;c vvilli whirh tUcfvtj Mds-
sini'sc; sailors bronj^hta vfssil in distress safely inio liarl)ntir,...l're<-ise stiui'ion (d't'b.iryl>dii.....U8t-
til llic present lime rmisidered as a true w liiilp(i(il....'l'iie fiMirnieivls of sbips ■.uvaliovveiS up in i«
ferried, as some bavi bilieved, tluriy inili s \iu<.|t)ti' reb.iiw to ih'i-> opinion.,., I'bouoineua i,f thn
current of (ho Str.iit, v.iiicli descends and ascends l.y inn rvals....\'isit of the auihoi to Cli "ybdis....
its appearan< c as first seen from tlio slir)re....()l)servationsniade on a utstrcr ippro.ich, and 'ti enter-
inv; it in u boat....Cl»arjlidis iif»t properly u wliirlpool, but an inressunt motion of i ,'^itated \vitli:rs,
wimli ascend, descend, dusli, i.nd M l/()i|iid...C<'nse(pn'(:c< s which fidlowi «! on throv,iii>^cenaiu bo-
dies into it.. ..No };ulf lnl(jvv tharyiidj*. ..|J' lllli of Ijie se.i much le^s there IJMfi in llw middle of tht;
Si rail. ...Charybdis cannot even be cnW'ln tt)i)i||MiMl b) li (iipc-,hioits wcaiher.... Cause of the loss o<
ships that are drawn into it. ..necent shipwi(:(.k »llh'H liappeiied in it without unjr uppi iraacc of a
whirlpool....()li)'in of this, error.... Node of the uAjn>'fiji\>i writers wh.» have mentioned (M)aryb(lij,
say tint tlu y had visited and cx;nniin'(| |l....(L'ji.|i |brlis/wulve jnilcii distant from Scyl|..i, thonjrji {la-
tnerslylesit very near....Iin(»ioii,.(/(( ll/./l Kllfr ^l\l U * M'lbH^" '""" ''•'^«" ^''*^''" !>''"^' '" ^'*^' Htr^iiof Mes-
sina, as to have rc)noved Cbarybdli* •)!/ jt\ hllHl ^/:j )!:(.. ..MliiHK" lliat has hai)(Kiied in the present
a^c, niuth posl(;r|///' |(l t}w Hl^ti; of \Ul fiM //H/fll //Hf jl»Mli'»<d' ol'writers who place Charybuis in tlm
situation where il is ii'lV. f/.'/(/|/| ••■'('!'Mtli mid j/l' J /'''"] 'xplanalioii of the proverb that •» he who en-
deavours to siiun C.ha.ybdis ilas|ic« HUllhW IMif' ,. .Sfcvllaand Charybilis, actorilljiij lo tlie uiicicnti.
dani^erous frolli JK nlirii! (enipfsts a'j(| .sllij'w|[ 1 ^'u' ' ' H"- rent in the |.i-.:sei.( lime^. .Imiuirj.-
into the cause of tins (liftclUil /' , J) JIH/Ihdih jft m (j|\ !lil\i jmprovein<ii!H mad'-Dithe urf
of navigation. ...Ey.,unples in [iHloj |j| /||( 1 ilfh^f jj ill \\W .^f\fkm und tht; Cape of (i.jod Uopc.
SCYIiL.\aml Char)l){||s, af7;prtliiig |ii 1 1»(; fables of the poets, arc tno sea- monsters
whose dieucHul jaus arc conxMjdii^ i|l.,|i|/(|i.d,t{) swallow unhapjn miriiitrs; the om-
situated oiithe right, aii4 the (Jtlicr tj|| (|f(; jeh extremity of the Strait oI'Mes.iiia, wlx.r.
Sicily houts Italy.
llexli'um Scylta latus. Ktvum imphuata ClKvi'vlxli^
Olisidct, at(pie iino ()al .ihri ter gurL^ite vastos
Sorbet m :il)ru|)mm (luctub, rursustjtio subaur.is
tri^it nkeriins, et sidera verberat unda.
At Sc yliiini taecis t ohibet spelunca latebris
Ora exe»'{aiitem,et naves in saxati'abentem.
Ilrimabomiuis iacies el pulchro pi^clorc viiL!;y
I'uiie temis ; postretna iminani corpore pristis
IJclpiiiu'Ubicuudas ulcrocomaiissa luporuni, V int.. ..Ksbiu^lib, li).
J<U
..I'AM. /VN'/ANI'S I RAVEtr.
I'.ir on the ri^ylit l\crili»!!;s loulSryllA l»i»U!»>
C li.iiylnlin iDaiiiiK "li *Ih' U tt pn »ul«>,
And in her nrrtdy wlurlpoi)! mi< ki iIh tuU-t,.
rii( nspimlHtl.tiu IVdin liilo\\ ; uiili I'liry diiv'n.
Tin- waves iiKtiiMl np.Mi'l vv.ihli l!ii' fari' of lic:t\'i».
Mm Si >llii Ironi lur ili n, witli open jiiWH,
I'lii sinking; \isstl inli<i i tidy ili'aws,
'I'Ik n duslus on llu' rot Us : a Imnian fari-,
And virt!;in liu'ioin, liid<' lur tail's dism'ucc ;
II( f palls ()l)s«< lu' In liiw llif waves «lc's(ind,
Willi «1<)(j;h iiu liisVI, and in a dolpliin end.
D«v
Dr,N.
1 l»;ivc MO (lifliriilty in ;i\ iiiliii}^ inyscU' of the dcscr"n>tion of a put iii a work dcdicutcd
(.0 the investigation of truth ; nor sh.tll 1 hesitate to cite similar passanes I'njin anothtJ
poet, since, however exa^^tferated tl\ese may be hy the glowinjj; colours of imagination,
thev' contain truth, and all'ord a sul)ject fof 'interesting iiuiuiries.
f should have thought myself to have merited the jjfreatest censure if, when I was iu
the Strait of iMessina, 1 had not visited two jilaces of which so much has Iji-eii written,
and which have been rendered so famous by the numerous shipwrecks they have occa
bioned.
I first i)roeceded in a small boat to Seylla. This is a lofty rock distant twelve miles
from Messina, which rises almost perpendicularly from the sea, on the shore of Calabria,
and beyond which is the small city of the same name. Though there was seareely any
wind, I began to hear, two miles Ijcfore 1 came to thi- rock, a nunmur and noise, like a
confused barking of dog.s, and on a nearer approach readily discovered the cause. This
rock in its lower part contains a number of caverns ; one of the largest of whic h is called
by the people there Dragara. The waves, when in the least agitated, rushing into these
caverns, break, dash, throw up frothy bubbles, and thus occasion these various and mul-
tiplied sounds. I then perceived with how mucli truth and resemblance 'nature Ho-
mer and Virgil, in their personifications of Seylla, had pourlrayed this scene, by describ-
ing the monster they drew as lurking in the darkness of a vast cavern, surrounded by
ravenous, barking mastifl's, together wiUi wolves to increase the horror.
T«c iTti (fuitt fAti (im 7iti/A«xcc rioyi>.)i«
lIoM. Oov«s. XII.
Here Scyllabi'llowsfi'oni lu-v dire ahncks,
Trtincndouspist ! ablioir'd hy inanaiid k'oiIs !
Hideous her voice, and with less terrors roar
The whelps oi" lions in the midiilj^i.t hour.
Poi'K.
The Greek i)oet, when lie pourtrays die rock which is the habitation of Seylla,
tinishes die picture higher than thi' Latin, by representing it as so lofty that its summit
is continually wrapped indie clouds ; and so steep, smooth, and slippery, diat no mortal
'ould ascend it, though lit' had twenty hands and twenty feet.
'Oftiii xoji^ii viip»>.it /f.u(» <ru(?.ot«»K«
Kf(»OU l^t( XBel'^»»t OtT If ^-tglii Cl/T tl OTiJf))
Otifi «•» «/«?«)») /SeoTn »|i(ig t" x«|««»/it
Ou/'' II ti ;^i(f>« >i 111X071. xai uroi^iiigir
HoM. Od. Xll
nigh inllicairthc rock its summit shrouds.
In brooding tempests and in rolling clouds.
nun
AN I IP: I U o JJICILIEJ.
:}(v^
Icdiculcd
k atiothci
^iiuuiun.
I was iu
, writtt-Ji.
ivc occa-
ivc miles
Calabria,
-ccly ai»y
hc, like ii
L'. This
I is culkd
nto these
and nuil-
lUire Ho-
describ-
anded b>
)f Scyllu,
s summit
no mortal
Ji.'iml 'tiormn iirt>iin«U and nuKt« rtttmnl tht\
Hr.tt its h|i .ik ItroWt uitd iiitrirt pt tlir ukk^.
\VI\ui all iJii- hnt.ul ixp;iiiHi(»li tuiv'lit will) da*
(JjoW't with til' .ntviiiiii. I 1/1' t!n' Miiiinur ray
Til" sumiinr uml i.>'.^ .muini i \',\ii\\ in *.iiii ;
Tlu; ''ky lor cv rlDw'i-*, (orevin Idmlti romiiiii
InipiM-\i(i(iH tt> flic ♦•Up «>!' iiiuM it 'iiiiti<l»s
Tli«J>iK<' l"'''"*^'>v twiiiiy r.tt. tlioiiijli iirmM viMi cvchty Ivavii
Sinooili as till,- uolisli ;>( llu mirmr ri.t-
Thf slii>p«'i'> hKlt-»i Willi hlu)ui into the skil^. Vovt.
Suth, tluct thousand years aj^o, or nearly sf\ appeared the rock f)f Scylla, aT-ordiiijr
/Qthe observations of Hoimr; and smh is ni.irlj its apptaranre at this day.
The accintiey of thi:> truly " lir^t tTeat piint* r of ami<piit\-," which h is likewiiC hi'er
obsLTved by seimtific travellers in otlur di seriplidn?, which ht lias k'^^'^ shews that the
level of the waters of the sea uas at Uvat time at ttearly the same height us at present,
sinee, had it 3iuik only a few fathoms, it must have K ft the foot of the nwk \vliii:h ar
cording to my ()!)servations is not very deep, einirely dry. And this I eoi:iider as on-,'
amonf; several stron^!; ar,u;miients, ih.iL the most reinarkable sinkings of the se.i are ante
rior to the lime of HoKier.
Sue!) is the situation and appearance of Seylla : Irt tis \\n\v consider the danijjer it oe
casionsto mariners. Thoug-h thvtitliis almost iinpereeptil)le in the op'ju parts of the
Mediterranean, it is very strong- in the Strait of Mesi.ina, in eonsecpjence -of ih" •
ness of the ehannel, and is rei.fiilalcd, as in other pi. ices, by the periodical ele\
depressions of the water. \\'herc the flr)W or current is aceonipanied by a w ii
the safue way, vessels iiave notliinj^ to fear; since thev either do notenti>r
both tlK' wind and the stream opj)osiiij> tln-ni, but east anchor at the entrai.^v. , or ti
both ar favourable cuter on ItiU sail, and pass throtif^h with such rapidii)' tluit they sei in
to fly I -r the wa'iT. But wIki the (uricnt nuts from south to north, and the north
wind bio \s hard at '.he same tinx , the shiji whi( h expi ited i asi!)- to pass the Strait w ith
the wind mils stern, on its enteriu. the channel is resisted l)y the opposite current, and
injpelled by two forci in contrary clirectioi\s, is at len^ihdaslud on the n^ek of Scj llu,
or driven on the neighboMU-iiif^ sands ; inikss the pilot shall apply for the succour neces-
sary l"o? his preservation. I'or to give assistance in case of sucit accidents, Ibur-and-twenty
of the strongest, boldest, and most experienced sailors, well accpiaintul with the [)lace,
arc stationed night and day nloti;: die siu^re of Messina, who, at the report (jf guns find
as signals of distr^ ss from aiu vessel, I'usu n to its assistance, and tow it witii one of their
light boats. Tht cvirrent, where it isstrougest, does not extend over the whole Suait,
but winds dirough it in intricate meanders, \\ ith the course of wliich these men are per-
fectly acfjuaiiu', d, and are thus alile to guide the ship in such a manner as to av(jid it.
Shoidd the pilot, howwcr, confiding in his own skill, eonteiau ornegk(t this assistance,
however great his ability or experience, he \\oul(l run ''k most eminent risk oi' being
shit)wrecked. In this atritalioii and contlict (J the walei I'orced one wav bv llie eur-
rent, and driven iu u contrary direction by ilic w'na), it is i iless tolhrciw the line todis.
cover the deptli of the boUom, the vio'mce of the current rrecjueiiliy carrying the lead
almost oil the surface of the water. Tin. strongest cables, i, )ugh some feet in circum-
lerence, brake like sniall cords. Should two or three anchors •• throw n out, the bottom
is so rocky Uiat they either take no hoid, or if they should, arc soon loosened by the
violence of the waves. Every expedient aflorded by the art of "avigation, though it
might succeed in saving a ship in other parts of the Mediterrancau, or even the tremen-
dous ocean is useless here. 'Fhc only me ans of a\ oiding being dashed against llie rocks,
VOL. V- M M
.{('(-
.i'.u.t.\N>; \Ki';» rn wi'i:;
or (Irivi'n upon Ihf Mtds in tli« micKt of ihr. furiotisioni* st nftlu uimlsand \vavc«i, In
tolviM n* fdiTM to til' vkill.itid roiir.i|,'«' ot tl.jsr Miss'ruvf scinuii.
Ill prool ol till iiiiili "I ilii").*-!^" ni»ii, I iiiii;!ii .diliirv HKiuy iiisiinicis rtlatid ut uv:
hy {ursolic (tt-M iv ill)!: nl «|, (lit. Hut I w.is ii);im IT at) lyc-uitiUMN to tin- Hitiiiitiuiiora
tradiii,' \l^^^l ImiM M. r«.viilis. wliirli Iml oiv il,i\ iimrul tlic Str.iit l>\ tin ntutith on
tli( iNitrili ' i«li , ;it till liiiu' ih.ii I w.is-.ii ;i Kill |n'ikiii|v tinwird. tin mi. TIu' ciiniiit
uiul a N I •till uind, whii li Ukii liU u' Mi'ci'j;', Iu im;;' IjdiIi in its Linomi', tlii' xcssd piiiciidid
iiii(Krliiil s.iii into, iiiid li.id |i.i>sul out liult n| ilu StiMit, wlictioiia Hiuldnitlic ^ky hc-
caim- oMr<;ist with ilii. k (loud'-, and \ioKiit ^iists ol' wiml arosi-, wliii |» in an instant
cIkiiii^'kI iIk jliir( lion o( ilic inu'iiif, atid fiiriml up tlit-sii Irom its boltotn. Tlii. ina-
limr.s li:id \\if.ily tiim to liandilu' s ils, wliik ilic lurioiis w.ivts hrokc ovtriln ship on
cviryhidi. Win tlur tluy nunly Col! *»\\.d the pru'iici" usual uiih ships in distrcs.s, or
whitliirthiv v\nr ac(|naiiit( d uith ilu lindaltk" iiistoin oC iht Missinisc, I caiinct say ;
but tluy iii(dt\M> f^inis : iiMia di.^ti l\ upon wliiili (an ot ilu h.iks (nip!o\(d on thiu
.strvirt liasti lud to the assistaiut ol tlu (iistrcssid vtssil, and lakinj^ it in low, br{r;in to
make rviTN iNtihoii to (•an\ it satth inicj iIk harbour.
It I had sn II with liar and shiiddi rincr thi d.iii,mr ol' tlu sailors on boird tho vcssil,
which 1 i'\|tct<(l cMry uiniiKiit \\oiiId Ik swallowed no in tln' wa\ts; I bvlu Id ^ith
wondi r and pleasure tin. address mid bravery ol the Missiiu se in.irincrs, who had iiiidir-
l.ikeii to stivr sal'ily thr<)ii}d» so storiiij a sia the s!;i|) mtnisled lo lliiir c.ire. 'I'hey
extricated it lioiu the iinrent which iiiipi Hid it t<iwai(l i (I( stiiitiii n ; i h.ai^« il the In hii
U) this side or to that : rci lid or let out the sails, as the wind iiu riasi dor ». baud ; avi/id-
cd the iin)Htuous shocks ol the \\avtsln nuetiii);; tin ni wiih the pr<jw, or oppoiinj; to
them the sidi , as eiihcr nutliod appcauil most piopc r lo break tlkir violi nee ; and by
l!ii!>c i\ni\ (fihir iii.iiiauMis which 1 am unable to desciibc, iluse bravi inariiiirs, amid
ihisih'i.idl'ul cnnlliei olthe seaandihi. winds, sutceeded intheir uiuLnakii!i^',andbiouj^ht
the vessel sale into the harbour.
\]\iX iiiou|i;h ol' SiNJla : wf will now proceed to (,'iiar} bdis. TIil, is situated within
the Stiuit, ill that p.at ol ilie sia whicli lits beiwcin a ijrojeeiioii of land nam. d I'uiita
Secta, and another pnijectioii on which stands the tower calli d Liiitirna, (a- the liidit-
house, a lij'Jit beinj^placrd at ils lop lo (;nide vc^sels which ma) lukr the luabour by
ni';ht.
On c(;ns'altlu}f the authors w lit) have written (<!' C'luirNbdis, wc hiidiliat thty all sup-
posid it to 1)1 a whiriponl. Tin liisi who has assirtid this is llonnr, w ho Ik; . repie-
■itnud (.'liar_\ l-dis as a iiKJider \'. Iiieli three limes in a i! y (hiuks up the waur, and three
liiiii!: vumi'.s it iorih.
livnru\]\ l'li.ii'yli<li-. I ' Ids l.f.T Iii/i.aeriais rii;. ii
Midst loaiai; \\irii'l|iuiil'„ laid uhioi'-ts tlio iitaia
Thiiii ill In !■ )';all'i lla- huilin;; si .<s Mil>'.i l< ,
Tluiii- in (lire ilaiadii'is slii' rti'viiu!'. tin lidi .
II'IM. Ol.^Ss. \11
I'oi'i:
'i'lie description fjl' \ iri(ilal)o\e cited dilllrs from that of Homer only in placing a deep
gull" below. Slrabo, Isiilorus, Tzet/.LS, Ilesyehius, Did\nius, I'^iistaihins, t<.c. rijieal
the sauu . 'J'lie loutit dc linH'on adojUs, ilk idea of Iloiucr in I'lill coiiliduice, and places
C'lKir\l)dis ainon_s;- the mosl eelibralcl whirlpools (jl" the sea; " C'harybdis, in the Strait
;>r Messina, absorbs and rejects the water tliree limes in twenty. lour hours. '**^ Strabo
' J5ulVuii. lJi->t. Nat. ton), ii. in dr.DiU'inn.).
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CIHM/ICMH
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Collection de
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Canadian Institute tor Historical MicrorHproductions Instifit c.tnadu^n de niicroreproductions historiques
O
fN 1HI-: rwo -jioiLiL:;.
20 i
tells us, that til'' IragiTiLMts (jf sliips swMlloncd up in this whirlpool .1rc c:\rricd by thr
current to the shore of T;uu-oiucuiuin (the present Taorniina) thirty miles distant from
Charybdis.* li'. conlirniatitjn of this tradition, an amusing- thouu;h tra,<;it;al anet:dotc
is related of one Colas, a Messinean diver, who, from beinpj able to remain a lonj^ tinu
under the water, hadaccjuircd the surname of iVscc (the fish.) It is reported that Fre-
deriek kint^ of Sieily, comini); to Messina jnirposely to see him, made trial of his abili-
ties with a(ri!el kind of liberality, by thrcjwini^a ,u;olden cup into Charyl)(lis, whieh, it
he brous^ht it up, was lo be the reward of his resohition and dexterity. The hardy di-
\er, alter haviu!^ twiee astonished Uie spectators by remainiuf;^ underwater ai)rodit^iou;..
leni,^t)i of time, when he i)lun!.^ed a third time appeared no more ; but soine days afti i
his b(Kly was found on the coast near Taormina.
I'lom the authorities here adduced, it is evident that Ch.uybdis has hitherto Ixer.
considered as a real whirlpool by both ancient and modern travellers who liave giver.
any account of it.
As I was therefore so near to this celebrated place, I determined to endeavour to as
certain if possible what it really is. It is distant from the shore of Messina about 750
feet, and is called by the people of the country colofaro, not from the ai^itation of thf
waves, as some have oupp(/i(d, but from "^Acyand ■P-'^'^y ; i.e. the beautiful tower, from
the light-house erected near it i'or the guidance of vessels. The phenomenon of tiii.
calofaro is observable when the current is descending; f(ir when 'he current sets in from
the north, the jiilots call it the descending rema, |- or current ; and when it runs from
the south, the ascending rema. The current ascends or descends at die rising or setting
of the moon, and continues for six hours. In the inter\ al bi:tueen each ascent or descent.
there is a calm which lasts at least a quarter of an hour, but lujt longer than an hour.
Aiterwards, at the rising or setting of the moon, the current enters from the north, mak-
ing various angles of incidence with the shore, and at length reaches the calofaro. Thi-i
delay sometimes continues two hours. Sometimes it immediately falls into the calufa o,
and then experience has taught that it is a certain token of bad weather.
As I was assured by the pilots most experienced m this practical know ledge, that there-
was no danger in visiting the calofaro, I resolved to avail myself ol' the opportunity.
The bark in which I made the experiment was managed by four expert mariners, who
perceiving mc somewhat intimidated as I approached the place, encoiuMged me, and
assured me they would give me a very near \ iew of the calofaro, and even carrj- me into
it without the least danger.
When I observed Charybdis from the shore, it apjicared like a group of tumultuous
waters; which group as 1 approached became more extensive and more agitated. I
was carried to the edge, where I stopped sometime to make the re([uisiie observations,
and was then convinced, l)eyond the shadow of a doubt, that w hat I saw was by no means
a vortex or a whirlpool.
Hydrologists teach us that by a whirlpool in a running water we are to understand
that circular course which it takes in certain circu instances ; and that this course or re-
volution generates in the middle a hollow inverted cone, of a greater or less depth, the
internal sides of which have a spiral motion. But I perceived nothing of this kind in
the calofaro. Its revolving motion w as circumscribed to a circle of at most an lumdred
feet in diameter, within which limits there was no incurvation of any kind nor vertigi-
* KuTariltiTbi /i ««/ J)ia>.iS»TV<) rx vavayia vd^nTi'^i'Tiii itfot t\i<ii» Tst Tn/^iy.wtai. Lil). vi.
t I have observed llwl at Messina, us well as iiioUicr p.irts of Sicily, words of the Greek hmgiKigOj
wliieh was once that of this ishiiid, are still retained. Thus Jie word rema, derived from §ii(i««) u
flowing or stream, is used to signify the current of this strait.
M M 2
■J.6S
.-, 1' A 1. 1, A N ■/. A M ' 3 nt AV i; L S
nous notion, but an uuxssantiMuUihition ol" agitated waters, which rose, fell, beat, and
dashed on each other. Yvt those imirular motions were so far placid, that nothinf^ was
to be feared in passinj^ over the spot which I did; tlujuf,di our little bark rocked very
much from the coiitiiiual agitation, so thai we were oblit;ed constantly to make use ol
our oars to prevent its being driven out of the calofaro. I threw substances ol ditterent
kinds into the stream. Such as wi i\- specineally heavier than the water, simk and ap-
peared no more; those which were iighicr remained on the surface, but were soon driver,
out of the revolving circle bv the agitation of the water.
Thouidj from t'hese observations I was convinced that there was no gulf under Uie
calofarojlis otherwise there would have been a whirlpool, which would have earned down
into it the floating substances, I determined to sound the bottom with the plummet, and
found its o-reatest depth did not exceed live hundred feet. I was likewise informed, to
my no sniliU surprise, that beyond tiie calofaro, towards tlie middle of the Strait, the
depth was double. , . t
1 could not therefore but conclude from these facts, that at that time there was no
whirlpool in Charybdis. I sav at that time, since the case might be very different when
the sea was tempestuous. I therefore made inquiry relative to this of the pilots, Uiose
especially who, from their tried experience, were appointed by the public lo give assist-
ance in storms to foreign vessels, and who had frefpiently seen Charybdis m its greatest
fu.T. The following is the substance of the answers they gave me :
When the current and the wind are contrary to each other, and both m their greatest
violence, cspeciallv when the scilocco, or south wind, blows, the swelling and dashing of
the waves within' the calofaro is much stronger, more impetuous, and more extensive.
It then contains three or four small whirlpools, or even more, according to the greatness
of its extent and violence. If at this time small vessels are driven into the calofaro by
the current or the wind, thev are seen to whirl round, rock, and plunge ; but arc never
drawn do^vn into the vortex.' Thev onlv sink when filled Nvith water by the waves beat-
ine over them. \\'hcn vessels of a larger size arc forced into it, whatever wind they have
thev cannot extricate themselves ; their sails are useless ; and after having Ijeen for some
time tossed about bv the waves, if they arc not assisted by the pilots ol the country, who
know howto bring them out of the course of the current, they arc furiously driven upon
the neighbouring 'shore of the Lantcrna, where they are wrecked, and the greater part
of their crews perish in the waves.* r , . i •
If we consider maturelv these facts, we shall find that a great part of what has been
written relative to Charvbdis is verv erroneous. We have seen how many authors,
Irom Homer to the present time, have described it as a real whirlpool, or great gulf
revolving in itself, within the circumference of which should any ship enter it is immc-
diately drawn to the centre and swallowed up. When the current is dying away, or
when there is no current, this description has no resemblance to truth. Charybdis is
» The following account of the shipwreck of u vessel ip. the calofiiro was sent me, after my return
from Sicilv, hy liie Ahbute Gnaio from Messiiui: , • i r
» About' three weeks ac;o we were speet^ilors of the smkuni; of a Xeapoluan polacca m the cai:.aro,
on its passage from Puglia, la.leu with corn. A n.o.t violent sonth-ea.u. jly wuul ^'^^r' ;^^Jj;^^?^^;:^^^^[
with all sails set, endeavoured to reach the harhour, slandu.p: oil irom the calofaro ; but the hud ol
the current from the entrance by the laro took her, and drew her uupeluously into U; where, without
beimr able to make use of her sails, she remaine.l lor some time tossed about by the waves, which at
ienelh either breaking over her, or opening her sides by their furious beatn.g, sent her to the bottom.
The crew, however, and a part of the car^o, were saved by the speedy assistance given by our man-
ners intw; small barks, who had the cotua-.e to encounter the danger. You will P^r"'\^ .^ «"^J"^
p^what manner the waves may sink ships in Charybdis, without ihc ncccssityof supposmg awhulpool.
IM THE TWO SICILIEJ.
260
then perfectly innocent, as I have been fully convinced by my own observations ; and
even when it is agitiited and dangerous, it still contains no incavution or gull of the
nature of a vortex, but merely a strong agitation and dashing of its waves, whieh pro-
duces Uiose small whirlings of its waters, whicii arc only accidental, and not to be feared.
So far likewise is Cliaryb'dis from drawing to itself and swallowing vessels, that it rather
repels them and throws them to adistar.ee.
This error has arisen like many others with respect to the productions of nature.
Homer, in relating the voyage ofUlysses through the Strait of Messina, was the first
who described Cliarybdisas an immense vorrcx which absorbs and rejects the water,
and die ships tiiat approach it ; exemplifying his account by the fate of some of the com-
panions of his hero, who were carried away by the whirlpool. The writers who came
after him, whether poets, orators, historians, or geographers, have followed him in this
description, without any one of them taking the pains to repair to the place and examine
it himself. Even Fazello the Sicilian, who was so industrious in ascertaiiiiiig facts, and
whose accounts of his country are so accurate, clearly shews in his descripti()n of Cha-
rybdis that he had never observed it himself; and concludes his narration \vith the er
roneous supposition above cited, that the things swallowed up by Chary bdis are con-
veyed by submarine currents to the shores of Taormina.
Among all who have written on this subject, we only find Cluverius ^vho seems, at
least at first view, to have visited the place, I shall transcribe his words :
" Ego sn.ne, cum Charybdis noscendas gratia aliquot dies Messanaj subsisterem, etab
hominibusejus loci, maxime vero nautis, non Siculismodo, sed et )ielgis, Britannis et
Gallis, qui hoc fretum frequentesnavigant,diligentius cam rem sciscitarer, nihil omnino
eertiipsisperdiscerepotui, adeo scilicet totum negotium onniibus obscurum et incogni-
tum erat. Tandem tamen rcperi Charybdim, (jua; incolis, patriis vocabulis, dicitur
calofaro, sub prsedicta ad Messanensem jjortum pharo esse niare rapidefluens, atquc ia
vortices actum : quod non '^i't *^' "t^"'^' ut tradit Humerus, id est singulis diebus ter, ab-
sorbet ingenti gurgite, revomitque aquas, sed quoiies vehementiori fluctu fretum comi.
tatur."
"I remained some days at Messina, with a view to obtain some information relative
to Charybdis : but tliough I made every inquiry of the people of the place, and prin-
cipally the sailors, not the Sicilian only, but the' Italian, Dufh, English, and French,
who frequently navigate that Strait, I could learn nothing satisfactorily ; so little was
known by them on the subject. At length, however, I found Charybdis, which the
natives call Calofaro, under the light-house before mentioned, near the harbour, to be a
sea rapidly flowing, and forming v(>rtices. It does not absorb the waters in its vast gulf,
and reject them thrice in a day, as Hojuer tells us, but as often as the sea runs high in the
Strait."
From the expression " I found Charybdis" we might be induced to believe that he
made his observations on the spot. It'is certain, however, that he does not explicitly
tell us so : and when treating of a phenomenon of whieh he was so anxious to obtain an
accurate knowledge, whieh he could not proeure even from the Messinese sailors, it is
strongly to be prcsunud that he would not have suppressed a circumstance of that im-
portance. As Charybdis may be seen from the shore, if he only went thither, and
turned his eyes towards it, he might witli truth assert he had discovered it. The other
adjuncts to his account, that Chary iidis is anipld sea, and that it absorbs and rejects the
water in a storm, convince me that he had not a juat idea of it, but satisfied himself with
the old tradition concerning Charybdis.
270
Si'.\M,ANi!ANl S i RAVi'-LT,
It may be observed that the sitiuaion of Charybclis, as it has been hitherto dcjcribt d,
does not exaetly agree with that assif^iud it by Ilonur. Let us r.llr to tin- poet. 'l'h(
goddess Ciree f^ives the ioliowiiigdireetioiis to Ulybses, with respe't to the naviixatioii
of the strait of Messina :
'0« Si (TtM CHi^i^'d t /Jilt 'iravev n.^i/t iKxtii ....
Ttt S'tTig'.v T»OTiAtr jjO»^t>«iT «'.» t^n OS.rTtv^
Tct d i» "i^(r»t{ 'lyTf ,uiy:i; fi>.yiifi ti'h'ivc,
ni;jlioVr llu' main two rocks I xalt lluii' hrmv ....
Close l)y,u rock ol' li>is cnoriiious liciiijlu
Hi'tiiks tin; wild u.ivrs, and forms a dan;.i;fi'oiis strait.
I'lill on its crown a li|!;"s i^rci'ii i)ranclii;s rise,
And sl(o(ji a h al'y I'on si to tlu' skiis;
U'.nialli, C'liaryl)dls liold.i her l)oist'roiis rci^ii
Midst roariiiL^ w liirlpools, and iil)soi'l)s the main. Pon;.
Tlie first of the roeks here meiuioiied by IIoukt is Seylla, which he drst;iibcs tit
length; and near the other, iiecordin,^- to this poet, Charybdis is sitiiattd. The distance
from one of these rocks to the other is an arrow's ili.Liht, "*' «'» >f><iiivr„at, wliich does not
at all accord witii the present situation of Scylla. How are we to e.xphiin this disagree-
ment ? Shall wc say that Homer, availing himself of the licence in which poets are in-
dulged, has spoken hyperbolically? I know not whether the connoisseurs in poetry will
permit such a licence. Or shall we siij^pose that Charybdis was once much nc arer to
Scylla; but that in a long series of ages, it has changed its place and removed under
Messina? Such a suggestion might perhaps be favourably received, if in remote times
any considerable change had taken place in the strait; but we know not of any; and it
is not probable that a chunge so remarkable as the removal of Char} bdis from its place,
would have been passed over in silence by Sicilian writers. Within the present century,
it is true, this strait, of which so much has been said, has become narrower, as wc shall
see in Chap. XXIX; btit at the same time we know that long before this event Charyb-
dis was situated where it is at present. The ancient and uninterrupted tradition of the
Messinese respecting diis fact is conlirmed by the authority of the most celebrated
Italian, Latin, and Greek writers. Fazello tells us, " Charybdis ex parte Sicilice, pan-
lo supra Me;>sanam;" "Charybdis is situated on the side of Sicily, a little beyond
Messina, Ovid savs,
" Ilinc cj^odum nuitcr, vol mc Zanchva Churybdis
Devoret:"
"Lft dire Charybdis in Zanclxun scus
Devour mv if I change I"
And it is well known that Zancle was the ancient name of Messana, now Messina.
Tzetzes in Lycophron says, 'h x»{tW(c &•?/ m«7»»)i» m — " Charybdis is situated near Messi-
na." Strabo likewise, after having mentioned Messina, proceeds, Ai-».i-1<«ix«< Xagi-ff./'.c,
(*iKfi)i xsr^o TD? woA«(.{, ivTSKHfV" — "Charybdis is seen in the strait a little before we reach
the city." Several odicr writers might be cited to die same pm"pose.
From all diese reasons and historical testimonies we must then conclude that Homer
was not exact with respect to the situation of Charybdis ; nor can it be a great oftence to
say that, in d»is passage of his long poem he has certainly nodded. The accuracy of
several of his descriptions of various places in Sicily cannot be denied. It is such that
wc must eidier suppose that he had himself travelled in those parts, as is the opinion of
many ; or at least that he had procured very faithful and circumstantial information
IN THE TWO irCTMES.
271
from others. Of this the rocks of Scvllu arc- an ixaniplo. Hut as to the snjjiiosccl
uhirlpool of Ch;;r\iKlis and lis situation, I think \\v may vi nturc to allirm he never saw
ithinistir, liiul tlialihi accrjiip.iN he liad rKxivtd ol' it litl him into errtjr.
\\\ will ii(>\\ i!ic(iilic what Ibnndation tlun ii i'orthe sayini;; which became proverhial,
that *'ho wiio ( iidea\onrs to avoid Charyhdis, daslus upon S(}lla;" and which was
applied I)} the ancients to those who, while ihey sought to shun one evil, lell intC) a
wurse.
On this subject I likewise made inrpiiries ofihe Messinese pilots iibovc- mentioned, and
to what belter masters could I apply for the elucidaiion of such a proverb ? They told
me that this mi^^()rtlme, tliou^h not always, yd frcfpunlly hapjiens, unless proper mea-
sures ari' taken in time to privent it. 11 a ship be extricated from the fury of Charybdis,
and carriid i>y a strong; soutlurly wind alon^jj the Strait, towards the northern entrance,
it will pass out safely ; but should it meet with a wind in a nearly opjiosite direction, it
will become the sport of both these winds, and, unable to advance or recede, be driven
in a middle course between tluir two directions, that is to say, full upon the rock of
ScvUa, if it be not iinnvdi itelv assisted bv the pilots. 'I'hev added, that in these hurri-
canes a land "..ind t"rc(pn.nily risis, which descends from a narrow pass in Calabria, and
increases the force with which the ship is impelled towards the rock.
Before I bej^an to write on Sc) lla and Clmrybdis, 1 perused the greater part of the
ancient authors who ha\e written on the subject. I observe that they almost all repre-
sent these disastrous places in (he most c,^loomy and terrifying colours, as continually the
scene of tempests and shipwieeks. These terrors and this destruction, however, they
nre far {'rom t xliihiiiiH; m the |)rcs( ni times ; it rarely happening that air/ ships arc lost
in this ch.:iinel,c i. ill. r bicituse tlieir pilots possess the knowledge requisite for their pre-
servation, or because tluy iipply for the necessary assistance. Whence then arises this
great difllri nee bet\\ci n anciLUt limes and the present ? Can wc suppose that Scylla and
Charybdis hiive changed their natnn and l)eeome Itss dangerous? With respect to the
former, we ha\e seen ihar thi-. liy])otlKsis is contradicted by fact, Scylla still remaining
such as it was in the time oi Homer ; and w ith regard to the latter, from the Strait of
Messina l)cconung narroAcr, Charybdis must be at present more to be feared than for-
merly, as it is weil known that an arm, chaimel, or strait of the sea is the more dan-
gerous in proportion as it is narrow. I am rather of opinion that this dift'erence arises
from the improNcmcnt of the art of navigation, which formerly in its infancy dared not
launch into the o])ei. sea, but (july creep along the shore, as if holding it with his hand.
" Alu r rcmiib lupU's, altfi- iil)i rattit iirciuis,
Tunis (lis ; medio inuxi.iui tuiba niufi." Pnorr.uT. Ill), iii.
" To slum tlu' (liiiit;-crs oi' tin- ocean, sweep
Tiie sands wiih one o..r, and witii one llie (k'ep,"
But time, study, and experience have rendered her more mature, better informed,
and mote coura,';-eous ; so that she can now pass the w ildest seas, brave the most violent
tempests, and laugh at the fears of her childhood.
To exemiiify and sujjport the probability of this opinion, it will not be necessary to
recur to the early and rude ages; much more modern times will furnish us with suffi-
cient proois. That part oi' the Adriatic which separates Venice from Ro\igno in Istria,
is certainly not the most propitious sea to navigators. The danger of being hurried iu
s'x hours irom one shore to the other, and there stranded; the frequency of violent
winds which prevail there ; tlie shallow s and sand-banks which break the waves, and
render them wild and irregular, may certainly cause some serious renccuori in those who
embark to mitkc the passage. So late as the last century, the ship\vrecks in this sea
:172
srAT,LAN;5ANi'r; travlt.u
were so numnous, and had so terrified the people of Kovipjno, that when any one \\a:
oblif^ed by urgent Ijusiness or any other eause to p;oio X'eniee, he eonsidered himself as
more hkelv to die than live, and if he was the fatiurof a family, used to make his will
b'fore he embarked. The Advocate Constanlini, a nat'.vi of that eountry, and a man
of Itarniii),' and in^^-nnity, told me when 1 was tlure, that he had read more than one
of these testaments, deposited among tlu- pulilie archives.
But at present 1 will i\ot say it is a diversion or plea' ure to make t!iis paj.sagc, since,
as storms are not unfrtfiuent, it is necessary to be cautious ; biit serious accidents rarely
happen. I have nivseii diree times made it without meeting with any cause of alarm.
To what eai\ this dilUrmcc be attributed but to the improvement of the nautical art?
Besides that tlu- mariners of Hovigno Acre not then so expert in the management of
their Acssels as at present ; they made ust- of certain b;irks of so improper a construction,
as 1 was assured bv the above-inentioned Constanlini, that it was impossible they should
long resist the violence of the sea. Those on the contrary, that have been built since
diat time, being of a broad and Hat figure, and very solid, are capable of withstanding
the most furious storms. They are there called bracere, and arc in g^eat reputation in all
the neighbouring countries. We here find a part of the sea, in which vessels were for-
merly so freciueiulv wrecked, and which could not be traversed but at the risk of life,
now deprived of all its terrors, and rendered easily p:issablc, merely by thj improvements
made in the art of na\ igation.
As a farther and still more convincing proof diat the dangers of Charybdis and Scylla,
though in themselves the same diat tin y anciently were, have been dimiiusiied, and the
dread they inspired removed, by the rapid tidvances to perfection which this art has
made in niodern times, I sliall adduce an example in anoiln-r sea no kss an oljject of
terror from tempests and shipwrecks, I mean the Cape of (iood Hope, called the Stormy
Cape by the first discoverer, and by the mariners of those times the Uagmg Lion. How
dreadliil were the dangers of this'place, where the two oceans descendiiip,- down the
opposite sides of Africa met and clashed together ; whcjre contending winds, whose
power was greater in the boundless ocean ; where mountainous waves, roeks, and whirl-
peiolsthreattned inevitable di struetie)n ! \\'hat prepuratiotis, whi»t caution, were thought
neeessarv lor the shij) which was to make the dangvroiis pussuge ! Able pilots who had
frecjuentiy made the voyage; masts and }ards secured by additional ropes; a large
supply oi sails and cii!)les, thieker and stronger dian usual; and a double rudder, that
in ease one should be danu;ge(l, there mij^lit be another to act. The m.iriners were to
be fastened to their ])osts bv stie)iig re>pe s ; the passengers shut down below, and the
deck left clear lor the crew, a number ol wlujm ste)od w ith hatchets in their hands, ready
to cut away the masts should it be necessary. The guns were stowed in the hold as
ballast, and the port-holes, windows, and every kind of aperture, carefully cl()sed.
Such were the precautie^is taken in the last centiuy on doubiing the Cape of Good
Hope ; but how lew of them are now neeess,ir\- to perle)rin this voyage in perfect
safetv ! Of this 1 have had the satisfaction to be certified by an Knglish gentleman,
Mr. 'Macpherson, with whom I had the pleasure of conversing, ia Pavia, in July 1790,
and w ho had iw ice doubled this Cape in liis vo) ages to India ; a gentleman of great
respectability for his inlormation, for the ^arious lung voyages he has made, and the
honourable emplovments lie has held.
The facility with which this passage may now be made, is iherefoie the consequence
oftheperlect'ion to which the art of navigation has arrived; and the same we may con-
elude with res|ieet to Charybdis and Scylla, which at present have nothing terrible but
the name, to those who pass them with the requisite precautions.*
* The niiuutc objects of the conclueling chiiptcrs arc of liulo consequence.
one wa-,
im self as
: his will
1(1 a man
than one
;c, since,
nts laixly
ol" alarm,
tical art?
emcnt of
itniction,
•y should
uilt since
islanding
tionin all
were for-
sk of life,
)vciTicnts
id Scylla,
, and the
is art has
oljjt'ct of
c Su)rniy
on. How
lown the
Is, whose
ind whirl
ethonght
, who had
i; a large
:ldtr, that
s were to
I', and the
ids, ready
le hold as
ly closed,
of Good
in perfect
entlenian,
uly 1790,
11 of great
.', and the
nscquencc
may eon-
irriblc but
\ niSSKUTATION
ON Till
KyVlirilQlAKKS IX CAI.AliUlA 1 F/rUA ,
W'inCIl IIAI'l'KNKD IN TlIK YKAH r^^..
IIV I in; tOMMANDIH
DUODATLS Ul. DOLO.MIKL
VTr.iniiuV"! frMu rii.c of liii' \i\y iVw (ojiiis piihli-Iicl .»i IV/in • it i.'nt.^
OKDICATEn TO DK L ASTl'IUK I)U S.MI.LANT, C'OMMANDKU Ol' MAl/f s.
I MIGHT adorn this dedication with the name of some of the great on earth, make
display of their pompons titles, thtir imaginary virlm.s; I prefer that (jf my friend, a
friend of tWLiUy years standing, whose title to enlogy this eircunistancc will stamp.
Mav he deign to accent kindiv tliis pnl)lic arknouletlgnient of mv attachment.
TheCliev. DKODATUSDi: DOLOMIKU.
piu.i'Ati;.
THE prevalence of contrar}- winds detaining me on the shores (>f Calabria Ultra
during die whole of the months of February and March 1781, und obliging me in
succession to touch at almost all the towns in its western shores, I was enabled to
make incursions into this unfortunate pro\ince; had time to examine all its ruins, and
witness the extent of its misfortune. My inclination for lithology induced me to pay
attention to the nature of its soil, and the composition of its mountains, and what I
now present is the result of mj researches. I have collected principal lacts alone, such
as local derangements will attest for years to come, anel which for centuries may con-
tinue of interest to the student of nature. Other details form no part of my plan. I
shall neidier give a circumstantial journal of the eartlujuakes nor a statement of the po-
pulation and loss at eaeli several place. For this I should have only to copy previous
accounts, and my intention is not to make a great book, or to repeat w hat others have
said before. I adhere to that chiefly which has l)een somewhat neglected, that is to say,
die explaining the nature of the soil, and deducing therefrom the piincipal phenomena
which accompanied the shocks. I have yet further for object to do away that idea of
something miraculous to which preceding accounts may have given birth, relating moini-
tains to have dashed against each other, entire lields to have been transported to a con-
siderable distance from their Ibrmer site, or thrown from one to the other side of the
valley, See. facts, not wide of truth, w hich must appear highly extraordinary divested
of their local circumstances, but which a knowledge of the soil will shew to be natural
enough. I venture a theoretic opinion also which appears to me very probable, but to
which I do not attach an importance equal to that of an exact knowledge of the facts
whence it is deduced. I sa}- very little of Messina, or Sicily. In the account aflbrded
by M. L'Alliniand, the French consul, is given every thing of consequence relative to
VOL V. N N
27.1
Dot.oMrEu's niascnTATioM om the
ihr destruction of that cit> , whose fate, dn adfiil as it was, is IvAVCVcr no wise conipu-
table to that of the towns of the plain of Calabria.
A muUitndeol details which I have otniiud may be :iecn in difllrent nlations pub-
lishedal Naples, particularly in ihal of Docior N'ivcnzio. Hut facts, interesting,' to thf:
naturalist, arc there extrenuly rare, and indud the work appears to be written (like,
many others on the subieet) rather to slrenp;tlK:n die theory which ascribes earih'piakes
to electricity, than to \;i\c any deseripli(Mi of the phenomena which accompanied the
destruction of Calabria.
'J'he aecomit of sir William Ilamiltcm is die perception of a |j;ood observer, who had
but a few instants to spare for examination on his trip to Calabria.
Had the eommissioiurs sent by the acad< my of Naples to Calabria thouf,dit fit to pub.
lish the result of their researches, 1 should ha\e suppressed this dissertation, since as-
sundly 1 could have no room to add any thinirto the observations which they ought t«
have made.
I have added in notes some particulars, which, though unessential to the object of the
dissertation, may yet seem to n\ake the text more easy of comprehension ; they eoiitain
moreover some facts interestiiijij in othir points of view.
I was accompanied by the chevalier de Godeehart, a youuf; man full of zeal, ardour,
and sensibilit;, . He was of nuieh utility to me in my scrutiny, the futi|{ucs attendant on
which he shared wiU» me with great patience and resolutioiu
UISSKRTATION, &e.
A ttniptsiatc nos vimlicant poruis ; inmhoriim vim cflusain ct bine fine tudintcs iiqucis, tcctupro
pclluiit ; luK'uiitcs noil sccinilur inciiuliuni : iidvcrsiis toniuuu cl minus ca'li, siibuiranx clonnis ci
(Iclussi in alUiiu spcrns rcnicdiasMiit. In pcsliUnlia nnilaic sidr licet. Nnlluni inalum hini' vKwKio
csl. ilof nudum latissinie piitct incviud)ilr, avidum, pnhlicc nn\inm. N'm rnim domosbolum, aut
I'amilias, ant inbfs sinKuUviilnius.il, scd gcnlcs totus, regioi)us(iuc suhviriii.*
Srnucu, Quest. Nutiir. Lib. V I.
OF all destructive scourges cardiquakcs arc the most dreadful, the most calculated to
spread terror and consternation wherever diey are felt. Nature, convulsed, seems
tending to destruction, the world towards an end. Similar to the electric shock which
■strikes ere the thunders be heard to warn of the threatened harm, eartlupiakes shake,
overthrow, and destroy, without any thing foretelling their approach, without an instant's
time to avoid the impending dani»er.t Animals, evt n the most stupid among ihem, have
an advantage denied to man, a foreboding of these fatal events; their instinct, or their
senses more delicate than ours, by impressions of which we have no conception, admo-
nish them some seconds beforehand, when, by their cries and impatience, they shew
their inquietude and dread.J Yet would a similar capacity at all times enable man to
* Ports secure us from storms, the shcltcvin;!; roof IVoni slioAcr-efl'usinK clouds and the continual
Xorrcnt ; fire follows not who ilv ; cavi.s under Kiound. Kiots dut^ below the waves, siiield IVom the bolts
and threateninj,' shafts of heaven ; the ijlai^ue is avoid.d by u dianKC of \*i^^^^ ', 'i>'' ^^very ill beside
there is a remedy : this widest spreads ine\itable its avidity, and ^'-neral its li.ani. Tor not only docs
it destroy houses, families, or sinjrle towns, it overturns whole nations, and lays whole regions waste.
t The destructive shock of the 5th of rcbnury was sudden, instantaneous ; nothnifj; foretold, nothuig
Announced its happening ; it shook anil overturned at once, nor allowed of time to fly.
\ The prescience of animals of the approach of earthquakes is a singular phonomciion, and is the more
t^rprisingtousfromour ignorance bv what sense they receive the intimution. It is common to
fARTiiq^UAKES IN CALABRIA IfLr«A.
27,1
ic conipu'
tions pub
\\\\!; to thf
itun (lik<:
rih'niakts
i.uiitd llic
, who had
fit to pub-
, siiici' as-
y ought t«
jcct of the
cy cjiitain
al, ardour,
tciidaiU on
ii\s, tcctupro
\x cl(>nni» ci
sine «n'u>;io
>s!>()liiin, aut
tur. Lib. VI.
ilculatcd to
it'd, hvjcms
lock wliich
kcs shake,
Liii instant's
ihcm, have
ct, or their
ion, admo-
thcy shew
iblc mail to
he continual
Voni llu" bolts
ury ill beside
nol only docs
;gioi)s waste,
told, noUiing
id is the more
i common to
place himself in safely? No, not the (|uickc'st ni;i^Iit, the strouRtst* orthi.' slip;htcst ami
least elevated bnildln};, not all tin precautions of human fonsiffht could shii Id him froni
the threatened death. In the midst o! his Hi|;ht he is swallowed by the f^apin!j;earUi ;i
the ground on which is built hi. j:>;oi„ef)Us paku.e, or his humble cot, is either sunk in
an abyss, or carried away to a distance, entin ly overthrown; now a mountain slips
from its base and loads it uiih its ruin; and now the vallies close and give it burial.
The loss of his j)rop( rt) , althou;;h the w hole should go, the loss of his family, his f"iends»
nay death itself is not the greatest ill he has to dread. Interred alive beneath a heap
of ruins, u hit h yet break not the vault above his he :id when' he has sought asylum, he
is condemiad to die of hunger and madness, | cursing his friends and family, whose
indillerenee he accuses, and tardiness to assist ; unwilling tiuyliave shared a similar
fate,i unknowing that those who sur\i\(this almost gencial eatastroplic attempt in vain
to release him from the i)iles with which he is overwhelmed. They hear his voice, his
all !>prcies, partit ulurly dof;^, rci so, und domestic f«»\vl>*. Tlu" iiowlintiji of the do)^s in the itrcet.*<
ot \I< ssthii were so violent, that they w( le oidrred to be kiliid. During^ reiipst-fi aninuils exince »
nearly siniilur inrjuietiide ; on the ainiiilar erlipsr ol the snii in 17'"il. the a^it.ition and nies of do
mestic animals contiinied for a ^reat part ol' the time, niilwith^tandinj;iis lii>,Iii was nonioie diminisli
I'd by it, titan it would huve been by the intei posiliun of udai k,thi( U eloud : tiie ditVeieneeot the lieuL
of the atmosphei-e was scarcely sensible. What iinpies.itin then tun uninials have of the nature of
the body whiih eclipses tiie stni f IIow are they al)li' in d'uiiu' that it is a ditVereuK inuinstan':'' iVoni
the sun's beini; veiled by a clovid which intereepts the lijjlit ?
• I'art of the niisl'oriinusof Messina are atlribiilabli to tin' want of solidity in the hnildiiii^s; tlie niin
of lhi;i town was promoted a lone; lime before by the earihipiakf^ uhi<li al ilillVreiii limes since ICiJj
had shakeitand loosened all the hotises ; and tlie want of poptilaiion and means td' vepar.itiijii. A II'jw
convent solidly constrncti'd in the middle of the town sutlVred no injury. Mnt in t'a!al)ria nothinti; wiiH
capable of re-^i^.tiiH!; the vioUnee of the slKKk:^. 'I'he li.uiiisonie eiiiivei\t of IJ.'nedittiins at Soriano,
re-bnilt with equal maj^niliceiice and solidits afur tlie e.irili(|nakes of li'.v>, \\as nearly levc Ikd with
the ground; notwithstandinj;, for tl.e pmpose of avoidini; llu' same file it esptrii'nced al that period
(an epoch sintilurly disastrous to Calal/ria) the walls uere ina<lu CKireuiely thick, und lliu foundatioiLS
peculiarly ^ood, and of excellent niaterialn.
t .\ mnnber of peasants belony;iin^ toiiie plain of Calabria 11)10!^ aeross the country were ingulfed
in large chasms, which opened underlheir feel, and disappeared:
Insuper tonitnia sub pedibus hiat iihyssus.
I A fourth part of the victims of the (artlKjuake of February jih, who were bmied alive under the
crumbled ruins of their buildings, would ha\e snrsived if liuy had bi'cn |)rohi|>il) succoured, IJiit iii
such a general disaster thereuasa want i>f hands, cvi ly one was occupied wiili his own misforiunes
or those of his family, aud paid no attention to indilVerent persons. Al one insi..nt the most aHecting
instances of filial and conjugal alfection, even to the extent of self-(le\oiion, were exhibited, and acts
of cruelty and atrocity which make humanity shudder. Whilst In re you saw a mother with dishevel-
led hair, und covered over with blood, hasti'u to the still iindulaling spot where a falling beam had
struck her infaiU from her arms, there a l)ewildeicd husi)aiiil braviiigdeath itself in siarchofa tiarling
spouse; at tlie same time migiit be seen monsters dashing forw\a'ils in midst of the loitering walls,
fearless of every danger, trampling beneath their feet the half-interred bodies of men wbociainied
their succom" in their way, to satisfy their blind cupidity, by the plunder of the lionsesol the rich.
They stripped the living bodies of such unlonunau beings us w<nil(l e\< n have repaid w iili usury their
charitable aid. 1 lodged at rolisuna in the hut of a gi niieuian w ho was interred ijrne,.tl-i ihe ruinsof
his house, his body iminui id, his legs aloft in the air. His ov n servant, in iitu hi' alTording him as-
sistance, after takinp; th<: silver l)uck'lcs from his shoes, ran off with his booty. I'or the most part,thc
lower order of people in Calabria evinced incredible depravity in midst of nil ihe hoi rorsof the earth-
quake. The greater purl of the farming-men were m ihe fields upon die shock ol the jth of 1"'( bruary
tiiking place; they iinme<liately rushed U) the towns jiiill smoihered in tlie diijt oce.isioned by their
recent fall; they Hew to them, not to j'ive assistance, lutl from any senliment of hunianiiy excited by
such dreadlul circumstances, but to plunder,
§ 1 h.ive conveised with a great imniijcr of persons dug from the ruinsin the difl'crenl towns I visited;
allot' whom fuucicd their houses the only ones that had sulfercd, having no idea of the extent of the de-
N N 2
1276
Dot.oM;nL''j oissrnTArioN on imj.
cries, tlic hulk of ruin rt'*ists tlu ir t n'ort**, uul iiiiukrs hislihiritiou. ' Thoy arc uii.i
bic toaflord liiiu tlx slif;litist loinloit, and to the viry list do* s lie preserve the atro-
ciuus, the lu';irt rending; idea, that all his Irieiids on earth \vi re only wretelu s and most
unj^rateliil monsters, liul wlun lirr joins its rav.i^^e t«) th.it ol' ilu' (|uiviriii^' earth, to
what tiew horror then is he not snitj' el i* lis slow de juries it^jainstlu; fallen heanis and
diflereiU wood- work ol'tiie ruinul l)uildiii^;s ; it reaehes him at last ; pentud inthei'atal
spot, all eH'ort fruitless to avoiil his fate, he pcrisluH the death of sacrile|rious eriniinals
and rej^icides, I and eurses uith apparent reason u destiny whieh eonfound.s, witit the
{{uilly, the innoe( nt.
Such nevertheless was the fate of a part of the victims of iho cartlK|nakc of 1783.
Who tlun without shudderiiifr can contemplate the disasters of Calahria? Wluj with-
out a tear hihold the hiust country in nature ravap^ed with imexampled fury by earth-
nuakcs? Who in short contemplate the site of towns where even the f]jround on which
they stood has disappeared, and the position of which was only to he determimd hy the
oI)ji'''.s witii which it was siirrotmded. Siieh are thr fnst ideasth.it occur to th«)se tra
velliufi^ throup;h C'al.ihria Ultra; such the sinsations I ixperienced at every sti p 1 took
uii visiting this imfortunile province in the months ol l'\.!)rniir\ and M.irch 1784; sueli
indeed are the iinpri ssions which prevent our considering ohjicts with sullieieiit deli-
beration to examine into elfects and thence ascend to causes. The sluiknt of nature
■.)tni(tion, iiiul woiidt nil ;it tl o «hlay «)f assislaixc
limiitl ali\
A woman in iIk' Ifn'oiixU of Ciiico fioiidi was
limiitl ali\i; on tin; luvi'iilli il,/ al'ii r iht; ratastniplii'. Two cliiMriii near lur ii iil piiisluil ol' Imnj^cf,
und alriatly wen; in u slate ol' |mUTfa« lion. Dnr rcilimtl on ils motluiN ihijili iiad inlritetl ilic place
ol' coiiti" I :.o us lo Ol (usiDn it to pniiily. Nunilxrs wi-ic huriid lor Unit', lunr, and live days; I saw
iIm'DI, f^pokf to, and iiui'suonrd llicni iispti liinc I'l'ir scnsalioiis in tlii-. trnit)lc prciliianicnt. Ol' all
llif |>liy^ic.d »\ils lIu ) I n(lni'( il lin' iiio>,i drcidlnl 'o ijn'iii «aii llili".!. 'I'lif liisi ispre.sion iiianireMccl
Iiy aniin.ds ulso, sonic ol wlii<|| \\{,vi- resiorcd lo li);lil afur u Tail of liliy d^y-., uas want of <liinki
thiir lliii'st was insaii.il)li', Hiv<ral persons tliiis Iniiied alive snppcn-Uil ilu ii- misrurnnic wiiliun'X-
I. .1 ....... < r .. I.:.. I. ...... ^i...,.i.i 1 1.:., I. i...... 1...1 r...... 1..1.. . ..... .r _
inc— " 1 waiieii, w.s nt r ripiy.
•In many lo\Nns ii liapixned iliat p.n-ents and faiilirul siTvanls, in seanli of persons dear to lliem
ronld lu'.ir lln 'ir moan.-., could n cojrnise tlicii' voiceii, wci'c tert.iin ol tlie sjiol where llu-y were bij.
rU'd; yet could 110', succour tlw in. 'I'lu- piled mass resisted all linir strennlli, and ni.ido ol'noav.iil
iheirzeal und cl1'<irts. In vain did lliey iniplore anutlier's aid; llicir j;r(ians,ilieir tears, were listened
(0 by none. Sti'ct.lu (I on tl\i' ruins, l!uy were.icn iiivoMiu; dcalii lo rele isi' liuir relations from their
hoiiid silu:aion, insokin;;- il for tUeiu aKes, as the oidy ailevi.uiun of their ni'.s<:ry. Vet e\eii this
roml'ort was denied tlieni, as al times lord;.ys loj^ellicr tiiey iieard liie moans ol'tiie wrciclied, huritd
heneatli tlieir IVet.
Whole luinllies were oveiwliclinid tof^ctlier, without a sii\(.',le individual esrapini';; in sin l» cases
the tombs were antpled on where thcj v.ere inlmnud alive, tiieir voices were (li.-.tin^'uis!ied, yet
^vo■.llll not thi ir l.iio i-xciie a sin;;le tc..r. .\t Terra \i)\a, four .\u'^usline monks, wiio had taken
Tefn!;e in a vaulted Sacrisiy, liie arc.li of v^hicli supported the in\niense ruins w ith wiiieh il was over-
whelmed, made their cries heard from amidst lii<' pilediiea|i, lor ihe space of f.iurd.iys even; hut one
of the convent was saved, and of what avail vvas the stren!j;th of one to remove the (juantity of rub-
bish which buri((l his companions i' IJy dcjjirees their voices died aw.»y, and several davs after their
four bodies were found t la; ped in ea( h ollu-rs arms.
More than half the victims crushed by tin- fall of Terra N'ovarcnniined amid the t ,1 is. und when I
passed by them on the ~inh Feb. 178 1, lliey evhaled a most insupporiable and in'Vciioi! . y.i.ench.
t \Vl>enalltlu'l)nildln^sof the townofOppido were levelled by the most violent shocks and eleva-
tions of the earth., tlie wood-work of part of the buildinivs overlvirned successivelyci.' j(! •: lire; hence
it became impossible 10 forward any succour, and most of sueli as niii-^ht have bfiu ",a\<;il from the
ruins were made a prey to the flames. Twenty nmis of the «>i'dcr of St. Clave were discovci'<vJ ci-'-
Cined beneaili tlic wreck of their conveji'..
KAin i(;^i'AKi:a is t:.\iAnni\ umiia
379
arc tin.i
the- atro-
md ino*)l
larih, to
aiiis ;iti(l
I tlu- fatal
criiniiKih
with tht
of 1783.
'Iio with-
in t'arth-
oil which
(1 1))' the
hose tm-
|) 1 took
b't; siuh
it. lU (Icli-
oi' iiuturc
fi'()i\(li wus
1)1' liiini^cr,
il till' plat'-'
iiyH} I »:i\v
i;iil. or ull
iMniltslt'd
\ uC (liiiik ,
willlllh'X-
e sUilKlUc-
clccii yiMi':;
Uirty Uuiii's,
i^lils at ll»(:
-•ur to lliciil
•y were hi).
(>r iii> avail
II lislomd
^^^()m tlicif
,!t even this
lii'd, huric'l
sw( Il cases
iiislii'd, yet
had taken
t was ovcr-
11 ; 1)111 Olio
ity ol nil)-
I alter their
uid uhcn I
unch.
. a/id clov.i-
lire; hcticc
:il IVoni iho
ovct'cd cs*'-
tntist hi' oil his (i;nar(l a^^aill^t thisi' attackn of stn>il)ility as w« I! as aj^iiist i\w \vnT\>iu^s of
his imagination to «.iial)li- him to soc no niorc in the- oi'i;^'in of the niisruituncHr>f i. .mil-
titiidi- of laniili' s, and the d Hiniction nf forty thoiis ml of his fellow crratiircj*, than a
«Ii|ij;lit ilfoit ol nature,* and to (|iialil\ him to strip thr virions n lations o; all those dis-
tif^tin nicnts vtiih whiehthiy h.ive hien c.loilu'd hytirror and siiperstiiion.
History fuakts no nuniion of any earth'inake tht 'liocks of uhich werj so violent, the
cflVets so destructive, as those whiehth solated Calabria in the year 17H;). This pheno.
menon sin)i;iilar enoiiffh is siitlicientiv imposin^r tf» interest the student of nature, even
\vh( n stripped of the marvellous in whicit it has been <lressed in previous relations ; and
Mill he 1)1 St t xplaiiucl by fewest words. TIk' sluuks were extremely violent ; t this is arv
indisputable laei. 'I'lity prodnt ed in Calabria Ultra ifterts, cotise(|neniial in thcmsilves
upon rtj^ardiiif; local eirciimstances ; this is a sii'oiid truth which may refpiire farther
elucidation, iiiul which I shall <n(^avollr to render efinally e\ident with the former, ii\
describiiifT tlu nature of I'lc soil and tht t^onnlry on whieh itexirted its j^n atest violence.
Thence shall Idechitv the reason why certain towns were almost wholly exempt frf)in the
general seoiir};f, notwidistandiii}^ tlu y were compreheiuU d w iiliin the space under whieh
Its stron}ifest ellorls were exhibited, near the centre where the most violent shocks were
felt ; u hy otlu r towns adjoining; tluiii remain biu heaps of ruins ; and why again others
leave bthind them no irat e of their existence.
The shocks til' the earili(|iiakt s in Calabria however violent 'ivcre experienced on »
space by no means ^reat, and appiar to have had a local cause. Its limits were the
extremity ol Calabria Cilra on llsi- one side ; eastu ards il i xireised no great ravaj^e be-
yond Cape Colonne ; nor westward bevoiul the tov/n of Amanthca. Messina is the only
town in Sillily which pariicipatitl the disa.ters of the continent ; and if beyond this town
any slight oixiilaiitms were i'elt, they were no t)iherthan the result of a trivial revulsion.
The space, then fore, on which this ti irible scoin-ge clis|)layed itself, was a length (jf thirty
leagues by the wiiol^' breadth of Calabria. Within this space, all places felt not ctpially
the shocks, nor snllind all llie same destruction. The variety of the eonseqiKnces of
this earthtpiake was as great as li.e diversity of positions. All did not receive similar
shocks, and these ellects n main inexplicable with those iinac<iiiainted with the nature
of the soil and local circnnistaiu:es.
Calabria Chra, in its luwir part, may be regarded as a peninsula terminating Italy,
formed by the indentation of the opposite gulfs t.^f Squilacci and Sant I'.tiphemia. It i*;
• Ancllorthvit little more violent oa tin- part f)f n.itMieinii^Iit have proved suflicieiUto cause apjcnciul
calastmplie, to cliaii>j;eeminly the present laee of liiiiii'.-s, to pl\!ai.i;e in eternal ohiivion tlu; present a^Je,
und a^es ^one hi lore, to annihii.'le all inonnnients ol" the arts and scieiiee'i of man, and liriii]!; Iiark ini-
man nature to its most early inlaiicy. W'c e.dcnl.ite ilie tlVerts of nalni'e from our mean. . alone ; she
appi'arstons leiiilile, and clavl in all her miij;lit on diver^^in'^ from any of those l.ius to which we im'.c
her snhject,and hy wliich in our virion she seems to he iiillnencctl. Yet what to her, oom|)ared witli
the i!;lohe, is the sp.ic;e of a ilo/Ah ol lea)j;ues ? what indeed with re|j;ard to th.e solar system were the
entire nuitation of onr continents ? I low many the |rciu ral ri'vohuions wliich tlie jjlohehas experienced
that we inhahil ! How often has it ehanp;etl its form ! On all siiles we discovt-i' vejilijifes of its revoln-
tions and catastiijphes ; our imaninaliou, which cannot emlirace the whole of them, is lost in tlie p,nlf
of lime, belbre the date of liistoiy. He who first conceived that the ocean had changed its hed ; that
is to say, that formerly an order of things existed the reverse of llieir present stale, imuj^med that he
had a<lvanceda hi(;hly holdoi>inion ; our ijlobe how';ver may have, experienced twenty sini'lai' changes.
The supposition of one alone exphans noihinrj. We trample in security on the wreck of, possibly, ii
dozen of former worlds; yet shudder if nature vary the least IVoni lier general plan.
t The shocks were so violent that men on the level plain were thrown down by them. Trees, sup
ported by their trunks, bent even to the earthand touched il wiih their to|)s. Numbers were torn up
bv the roots, and others broken sjiovt to the groiaid.
378
»0LoMii:i''ii i)ia':i-u I A iiox ov iut
tnvcrscd by a i)rolonj;ation of the Appcniiics, wliich, dcscribinpf ii bptcics of arch, fcr-
ininatc at Cape Dell Arnii, opposite to Taoriniiui in Sicily, and froiuins the Neptumau
mountains, uliicli, notwiihstandinpr the ch;iunLl whieh separates them, may be looked
upon as a eontinuanceof the sanjc ehain, In in;.- oi'similiir nutinv, and riinniiij,' apparently
in the same direetion. Below the ^^ulf oi' Sunt luiphcmia a ridfje of the Appenincs
leaves the prineiiml chain, extends almost at ri^du an^Hes in a \\estcnulirection, forms
the viist promontory terminated i)V Capes Z.miljroneand Vaticano, and encloses the gull
of S:int Kuplu-mia. Anollu r ricl.i^e proceeds in a similar direclioii Ijelow the immense
numnt Aspramot, and ends at the point of land called Per-./.o, which jetting out opposite
to Messina, incloses on one side the narrow channel called Kl Faro. The .-.ortot basin
formed by Uuse mountains is what is called the plain of Calabria, or of Monte Lconc,
anil most'eommoiilv die plain alone. 'I'nis name causes a false idea, for the soil inclosed
widiin this space is neiUier even nor horiizontal, as its tide seems to indicate, but ofun-
Cfiual surface, and is traversed by vallics and deep ravines. _ Possibly its designation may
be gisen it in contradiction to the lolty mountains by which it is inclosed. The sur-
face is a gentle slope from llie lt)oi ol the mountains which run from north to south
to thi- sea'^shore, wh( re it ends in a low beach of a circular sh::pe, the raclius inwards,
making the gulf of Palma. Within tiiis space, enclosed as 1 have described by three
ridi'Ts'of moinitains, is it that the elVuiis of nature were most violent ; tins is die im-
loriunate soil which exhibits nothing but the ruins of die towns which lormerly stood
there ; here it is diat all the inhubitanis seemed doomed to inevitable death ; this there-
fore is that part of Calabria w hieh 1 liave most particularly to describe.
The Appenincs, after runiiing through Italy, and in dieir whole course cxlnbitmg
(lodiin.f but ealcan ous mountains, here raise their heads aloft, and shew the naked gra-
nite aiidslatv stone which are exhibited to view in them alone, and form the extremity
of this long chain. These substances, w hieh one would lo(jk upon as primitive m com-
parison to' die formation of all others, and lower than which diey are ahiiost unilormly
riituated, seem to present an immoveable base; and the mountains which they
consUtute fixing their roots in the centre of the globe, ought to be exempt from every
vicissitude ; ne'veriheles^, at dieir base was it that the most violent shocks were lelt, nor
were they dmnselves tree from such convulsive motions as destroyed whatsoever was
found at their ieet. _ , , j
The whole of the Appenincs which overlook the plain, the summits or elevated
groups of some o( whirh bear the distinctive names of Monte Jcgo, Monte Sagra,
Alonie Caulone, Monte .l::sop, Aspramonte, Stc. is formed almost entirely of a hard and
solid granite, composed of three substances, quartz, white feltspar, and black mica.
It is almost the only kind of stone the fragments of which are Ibmid at the loot of
mountains, it is the only stone that is carried away by the torrents, and such buildings
on the plain as are composed of solid materials are constructed ol tlKse alone.* O.i some
masses of this granite, on die back of some mountains and on certain summits, are ad-
herent dejiosiis" of calcareous stone, which look as if the remnants of larger masses, di-
niinished In time and rain. On some summits, also, roclie de corne is louiid, and slaty
♦ Muteruils luf l)uihliiii>' lu-c cxcei'ilinKly nirc throughout all tliis part of C.ihibrui. Tlu; liouscs of
the wiuillhy, laid the cIuucIks, tar. l)uiUol' sloiu-s caniid nloii;;- by Un; lorrciils ; llic casislor the win-
dows iuid iloors ot graiiiu- hcwu in tl.o niounuans, consctnicutly very ilctir onaccomu oi the Lihourand
exncncc of cuniugo to oiht-r plain's. Tl.c houses and inciosurcs of the poor arc made ol chiy, mixed
AvLlh sand and straw, shaped into hricks and dried in the sun. Tliis e^iui ol materials lor huUding
will prevent a char^'e of ihe site of several towns which would l)e much holier placed a lew miles
from their former position, hui liu- intiahilanis refuse to i,'o to a distance, expectmg to tiud in the wreck
of tlieir ancient Imhitalions lualorials wherewicli to construct new dwclhngs.
rch, t'cr-
.'ptuiiiau
L- looked
)j)arently
ppcniiics
n, Ibrms
j the gull"
immense
opposite
ot basin
J Lconc,
inclosed
Lit ot'im-
tion may
riic suf-
to south
inwards,
by three
s the un-
rly stood
lis there-
xhibiting
iked gra-
xtreniity
e ill eoni-
imrorinly
ich they
3111 every
e felt, nor
levcr was
elevated
te Sagra,
hard and
Lck mica,
e loot of
l>uilcru)gs
O.i some
s, arc ad-
lasses, di-
, and slaty
0 liouscs of
for the win-
j lul)OUi'and
clay, mixed
1)1- building
1 few miles
I tho wreck
KAimiq_irAKEa i.v cAL\nnr.\ vliua. 27!)
schocrle (lioriil)jcnd ) frni:^ments thereof arc met Mith in the ruins of Terra nova, Oppido,
and Santa Christina. These mountains arc very steep, tiieir siimmhs bare, and many
of them inaccessible. They wear that appearance of age and degradation socommonlv
observed in mountains of the same description: at their base, wliich is prolonged, have
been succcssivily depositid, to a very great deptii, lajers of quartzy sand, galena, grav
and \\hite clay, and grains of feltsixir and mica proceeding from tlic dccoinposition (it
the gninite ; the uliole mingled uith slulls, and marine fragments. This mass of mat-
ters, which have no connection with each other, and are wiUiout consi.'itence, appears to
be a deposit of the sea, which driven by tlie western wind beat against the foot of these
mountains at a period much anterior to the present order of things, frittered oft' certain
particles from the rock, and brought with it from its undulating motion some others from
distances very remote.
This deposit, at first horizontal, from north to south and inclined from east to west,
as appears by the direction of the strata afterwards received a new surface, either ow ing
to currents of the sea itself, or torrents from the mount.,ins, and was formed into
the succession of hills, valiies, and plains, which, reclining on eacli f)t!Kr, terminate
in a low shore on ilie margin of the sea. 'J'hc progress aiid the sjjoils of vegLiation,
and other causes with which I am unacquainted, have fjothed this moveable Ixise with
a stratum of vegetable earth, argillaceous, black, onvddish, verv strong, very tenaciou-,
and from nvo to four or five lect in diiekmss. This kind of ruitward bark gives a de-
grce of solidity to the soil which is additionally bound together bv the numerous roots of
trees growing on its surface. These roots penetrate to a great depth in search of that
Inimidity always contained in the lower part of the sand.
_ This part of Calabria is watered by streams from the u])pcr mountains, well reple-
niohed in whiter and spring, and which after i\iin or the thawing of snow precipitate
themselves in torrents through the plain. Then do thev bear away before them what-
ever they meet in their way, and when once tluy have made tliemsehesa lurrow through
tlic vegetable earth, they easily \\ork a passage in a soil which can make no resistance.
Thus they make ravines of an extreme dejith, at times six hundred feet, but the sides
always remain steep and almost perpendicular, on account of the superior stratuui of
earth tessilated by the roots of trees, jjreventing tlie mass beneath from fonuing a sloping
bank. The whole country therefore is cut in furrous, and gorges of great" or smaller
depth and width, in which small rivers run whose tributary waters form the two rivers
Metramo and Petrazzo. 'I'hese fall into the sea at a short distance from each other,
flowing diroughthc lower part of the plain, of which they continually incn use the ex-
tent by the deposits they form at their mouth. Their banks, wliieh are exceedingly
iertile, and are susceptible of irrigation, are yet not the best culiivatrd part of this beauti-
ful country ; they are uninhabitable liom the bad (]uality of the air.
This change tfilcted by water has produced two conseciueuces. In the hr^^ ,;l:ice it
haslorm.d a vast number of gorges and valiies, which ha\c- parcelled out Aud divided
the ancient soil. Some of these valiies are susceptible of cultivation ; others siill arc
inlertile, owing to their being covered by the floods of each succeuliiig year with a new
deiHJsit o( sand, gravel, and different dilapidations of the upr-er ground. Almost all of
them_aremcrea;;edby very lofty csea. pmi-ms resembling wails; 'some of them, having
acqiured a dtgree of slope, are covered with trees which add to their solidity ; none
however have inclination sufficient to sustain their load on a base pro.ion innate to the
height, buch parts ot the ancient plain as have not been alFcted by rhe torrents, re.
mam above these valhcs and form flats, the elevation of which is imiformly the same
the dimensions various; constantly are they iiitc-'sectcd by the ravines I have described'
■280
UOLOMIKU'S nilSEUTATtOV '1\' J 31 b.
V
Some of these fhits, ptrfcctly inaiilaud, resemble those calcareous mouniains with flat top.
which arc ireqiiently ibiiiid in plains, the strata in which corresponcUd with those of the
rest in their vicinity. Nature might, by a violent motion of its v.mvcs h\ ll»c body of
waters w hich form the sea, have anciently effected the same operation on calcareous
masses, then much softer than what they arc at present, as now before our eyes on the
sandy plains of Calabria.
This part of Calabria of \\ hich I have afforded a slight sketch is by much the richest,
•lOt only from the extreme fertility of its soil, but from the great variety of its produc-
tions.* It is likewise the most peopled. An immense number of cities, towns, and
\ illagcs are sjircad over its surface ; many of them uere situated on the slopes at the foot
of the great chain, some on those fiat elevations which the torrent had respected, and
which 1 h.ivebi-lbre dcscrilxd ; oUiers again on small inclined planes, which have a view
of the sea at considerable distance. There are but two maritime towns, Palmi and Bay-
nara. The inhabitants gcsierally selected elevated situations, in oreUr to have th<; ad-
vantage of a more healthy, a more pleasant situation, and ii more extended prospect.
Many of these towns, however, that they might not be too far from the water which
flowed into the vallies, were established near the escarpment on the brink of the ravines.
This situation was t!ie cause of a singular circumstance which accompanied their
ruin.
'J'he mass of the branch of the Appcnnines, which, as I have noticed, extend at a
right angle and form a promontory terminated by Capes Zambrone and Vaticano, as
well as its base is granite, but not always naked. It is entirely bare on the escarpments
v\hich line the coast between Capes Zambrone and Vaticano; there it is in enormous
masses, in which I have never been able to discover cither strata or synunetrieal order.
This granite is exceedingly iiard ; its granite anel component parts are the same as those
of the mountains which occupy the bottom of die plain. On them are visible large pa-
rallelopipcdal stairs, produced by a confused crystallization occasioned by some sort of
precipitation. t
This promontory, which I shall call Tropaca, on account of the town built below it
between the two Capes, draws back from its base towards its summit, and presents four
small plains prolonged from one cape to the other in terraces, like the seats of an amphi-
theatre, and separated by steep slopes. Here you distinguish the gradation of the matter
of which the body of the mountain is composed. Solid granite forms the first ter-
• It is inipossil)lc to form an .idcqiiatc itlca of tiic asionisliinp; fci tility of C;il;.bria, p.irticulmly of that
pail called The IMiviii. The fields, coviit'd wiili olive-trees of hii'ijer m'oiMli than any seen el:ic-
w here, arc yet productive of i^raiii. Vines load with their l)ranrhes the trees on which Ihey clinch, yet
lessen not llieir crops. The coinitry, from the immense ninnber of trees with wiiich it is covered,
resembles a vast forest, and yet produces grain iulficient for its consumption. All thint^s j^rov,- there :
and nature seems to anticipate the wishes of the husbandman. There is never a suniciency of hands
to ijalher the whole of the olives which finally fall and rot at the boiiom of the trees which i)ore tiiem,
in the months of rehruary and March. Crouds of fori itrners. piiiK ipally Sicilians, come thereto lielp
to ^athe^ them, and share the profits with the i^rower. Oil is their ciiicf ui tide of exportation, ot w !iich
it may truly be said a river streams annually from Calabria. In oihttr parts the ])iincipul production
is silk, of which a great cpianliiy is made there. In cveiy cjiiarter ihere wines are i^ooil and plenteous.
The people, in short, would he the happiest on eartli if — but it forms no pari of my plan to criticise
t'itherthc government or the individuals v ho liolds great i>ossessif)ns in C.dubria.
t This granite is worked ; it serves to make steps for stair:., i.i.iierns, and oitier siniil.ir works. I believe
that a part of the columns of granite which are seen at Naples and various towns in Sicily, and whicli arc
Urmed oriental granite, notwitnstanding they are not red, were t.iken from these rocks. Oa examining
thein, I foiuid in an escarpment on the sea-shore below the village of Furyhilia an ancient quarry, in
•which arc a number of large handsome cohnnns already cut, o'ivns begun, and fragments of u number
broken in t!ic operation of cut'iivr Uieni-
r. All IIIC^LAKK.'! IN CAl.ARiirA U ! ,1 H A Qfil
pec ;■'■ above it is a grcnt tl.ickiiess ofd.conipomulcd granite, the .onitii of which havf
lost their adherence, and ('ill asunder wiih the sUkIuc si shock. In this species ofrotfn
rock the waters have oijened da p ravines, pa.iieularly in Cape Zinibrone, in whieli
they have made fn{.-htfn euts thnnigh the whole; depth of the inoiintain ; the sides ol
Which howe^■er, although steep, h:uc jet a trifle ol" inclination, bcin^ destitute of a
solid crust at top to keep the earth mKctheraiul prevent ilsj;ivinfr wav. Upon fheffra-
nitein a state oi dceoinposition is a hyw of fine quartzy while sand,' several hundred
leet in thickness, in uhich I Jound a number of marine bodies, i)articnlarlv a ouantitv
ol superb echinometres. I'lnally, the loftiest part of this mountain, that which forms it.
sumnut, IS a white calcareous stoni- in horizontal beds. This flattened summit is thf
single, calcareous, insulated mountain called I'oro, on which are the ruins of an ancient
castle : it forms a sort ol une.pial ,)lain, which is prolonged as far as the gn-at chain
passing below Monte Leone. But this lofty flat docs not partake of the lertilitv of the
plains or slopes which It commands.
The town of Tropea, on the sea-shore towards the base of the promontorv, is situated
on a rock of granite projecting a little into the sea, nhieli it commands. 'The cKterior
part of this granite is coated with a sandy calcareous rock, feeblv concreted and full of
marine bodies. A similar calcareous concretion adheres to the' granite in some other
parts of the coast.
The side of this mountain towards the south, in that part adjoining which Nicotcra is
SI uaed, exposes a naked mass of large grained granite of a superb nualitv, the blocks oj
which arc very arge, and fit lor the n.ost beautiful ^vorks. In the upper pa • the Se i
decompounded, but is less friable than that of the neighbourhood if Tropea. It is eros
ed by_ veins of micaceous feltspar ; one part of whicii resembles the petun^^e dc Saint
Yrie m the Limousin, and the other changes into ela\-.
As you examine this side of the mountain towards Aliletto and Vallelunga; the solid
gram e appears to bury itself in the earth so as to leave only that part expo^ i hieh b
u) a state of deeomposition, a cjuart.y sand, and white micaceous elav, rUheruncUous
and ductile, which possiby may also be the result of a deeomposition'of feltspa iTse
matters form the slopes, caning against the mountahi, ^^•hich the ^^•aters e isily penc!
trate opening for themselves profound ravines and ; allies. The town of MilcU was
built on a slope of this description.
On the opposite side of this mountain, that is to sa^•, touards its top on the northern
side from the nver Angitola to Cape Zambrone, the nutss appears to be- a niixtnre of gr^t
• In the midst of tl.c fertile pluin ^vhich form, the first terrace u{ tlu- umunUm of Tronc-t is the
httle borougl. of Paryhchu, remarkable on account of tin- iudnstrv of i,s inluu t s vl o' c'd u
afiordb u perfect contrast wiUi t ml of oUur ('alaljriiiis 'I'Ik.v 'n-,- ,11 , r y""^'"'^';' """'^^ ui.u.u lei
ammierce lM.y.<noirint..esprin,,ands,t:;au;en.
cxporta .on, but ,n tnerchandise of easy transport, sncb as essences, silks, cotton ou a. m s
exquisite workmanship, ^c. i.e. which th.ey purchase i,, utiu r ,K,ris of t -li bii nd 1 1 , '^^^^
return some ol,jects of luxtny, which they !dterwar<!s .liHuse . : 'h i e m vi'n:'e T ^liU-^ I
cnurely deserted by U.e men durin- the sun.mer. The lu.rvesi is uuin^id bv r u .me.Vma i''
a;,, in the auUimn tlu-y return with their j^ains to sow their land^ AU .^t' 1 t^e ,^5^ ndl"
their conduct is milder, and their manner less savage than those of U>t i. ei U, n •! T. • '
those lillle comioits of Uie which are unknown to thefrl^l o^^cli'vn e ' ' :": them It "{^^
and c V tu ■? f'^''7K'V"""'T'- '^ ''•^ '"*^" ^"•''' '^''"^ ^' ^'^^- ^ »»'">"" ^i'- ■> ti'- women m-et,v,
and % ci y la, • complexioncd. borne of them Imve blue eyes. The beauty of t'-.e women of his v I
tSthe'; v''''r'''T ^^- ;!^\^""-"'l^°«d- Another ci:cun>stance, as sin^Iubr rsX- rec e .. "
hatt T '"^''^ "'^ i'aryhcha has no eflect on the towu of Tropea, distant from t no nore U>S
half a league ; the whole «t the industrious habits of Calabria bcig confmcd to Uut virge
VOL. V. Q Q
032
J)OL0MIKir'3 DISSERTATION ON THF
nUc =,nd IbVuvted rock , h, druses, »nd of n.clu do o.-rno, in " ''i;;!M;;;;''^,.|.t;';|i4^^^^
^^ThlMlwirofVlzzo atilic back of tlusc l.lack, schistous, au.l p-;mitio monntai.^, is
""""'LlnS •■ lT™;crr,. d bv u:. onVuranc'riunnidUy >vid> a kind of blackish
,hc promontory, «l.id> by .Is 'j""'™';""" f"™" l'\^, ' ' "'Z";^^^^^^^^^^^ granite,
r^;^i^d;S;i:^=;i::^^":iJ^— ^^
^'^?IW™l™r":S :;^:«ons schis. pr..ao,ninate in d,c monnUnns «1;;^|-;;;i^-^^^
Krt;;::r'™;^t^:dw'^
lied sm,.,l.»...o.„l J. u„.l „„.ai„>u,c. .. ''"; » "'^ ;;' L^ . , >s, , hid, ...vc1o,h.» ,I,c n.l... : in
Xr,:"^^":;;;! ^;^^:»,"« "S;;,!:;:';:!*;^.:;,,,, ;;,.., luh.., i„ t„. ,.,ic.> ,.y ...ic, ....
pound imrccovircdwith shrubs UM(l .n v,i,(.cloi ';"'-"' ,.^ , , . .-cnisui odonscru, kc.
Tl>c phtins, the v.lli.s u,c snrpiiM.n^ly f>.n.lc, u '^^ ; ' ' ;; ' n the sm of llie river wiUu.ul n^ect-
the, ..e nourished. \n no part .an you d.;.^ two «'■ ll>> ^ ' nh s U ou^^ tl^c soil, and thus keeps
inAith soft xvaler. Tliis uv.uir descends iron, llu- '^'r^^}'];^^'^^]^^^^ Nvuuerous clumps
«^u freshness and hunmlity;vhich ren.lei's ^r^-f];^V^^'^^'!^^Z^ from their fruit, .id
of a^ruuu adorn the fields ot Ue^.^'o, affon nu,^ elri;htfn ;\;'''^^' ;^y ' Z"' !^'^\oi'i a^rumi is used as a
the essences extracted fron. then, a --^;^''''^^^^'^^^;^ ^^Sl von, citron, ber^amot, 8cc.
c,.ncrir term to express collectively all trees of the species ol "''l^' ' ,. " '^ ^^ west was more
^ One is tempt.d to imai;ine that in ancient times the motion f , "^;;.^ 7,^^' ' J^^^^^^^^ at the
conside.d,le and continual than the revei-se, -;^-VZ;;^^ -"'U
x^^di^^cisruijfir rs^i :-t::i^fTz!:pf^ . .m commues to .... ..
foot of the hills without an accumulation of any scduucnt whatevei.
E A iniK^ir A K K :; IN iMf.ADKIA t'MRA.
JH..
I nuca-
(I, and
t bcaii
Ay lor-
vhich I
1 stones
tains, is
glutina-
s 1 met
)ut little
s of the
jlackish
for vol-
tion and
t-stige of
lains for
positc to
dings of
li, on the
granite,
.'ous and
'iron the
J crossed
e, which
the east,
) abrupt,
elevation
Wa which
■ opposite
cturesque
wci'f pctri-
ohiiion. In
.\c initv.i ; in
• whicli Uis
which sur-
iioslcoiiliii-
>i'iscra, J<c.
■wiili which
thoul mcct-
l thus keeps
•ous clumps
:ir IVuit, und
. is used as u
rjjamot, 8cc.
;st wasruoro
uhitcd at the
kvhcncc what
to wash the
landscapes. 1 he fields are astoni^hin,^^ly llrtili ; there are hut few plair.s, but the vallies
are delijrjiihil; the hills are covered with nuilhirrv and IVuit trees, while olives, less
abundant than on the western side, leave to balance tluir delieiuirv a verdure much
more lively, with superior charms. The centre or kernel of the secoudVv mountains and
Julls IS solid ; schist and calcareous ston : abound in tin in, and thev arc ve'ined wiUi metal
J he partol the eliain of the Appeniacs which runs alon-lhc "isthnius, or contra"tion
made by the f^ulls ol St. Kuphcmia and S.juillaci, is likewise composed of f^raniie, fo
hating rock, aial schist, covered in some parts bv calcareous stone; it is onlv bevond
.Nicastro and Catan^iaro that all these sul)stanc..-s are enlirelv envdoped with tla- simc
calcareous stone, which is substituted for them throu-houl the whole of the upper parf
ol this chain, until you come to the lava and ejections from Vesuvius, and the volcanic
productions ol the Campagna di Roma and Tuseanv, where vou see them a-ain forced
into \ lew, from considerable depth, !)y the action of voleauie iiie. '^
From this general examinati'.n results, that almost in everv part Calabria has trrai.ite
lor Its base; that the focus* of the eartluiuake w.is bcueatir th.ib base ; or at least that
the momentum which occasioned these violent oscillations of the surface, acted beneatii
these sohd masses; that there is not the vestige of a volcano in anv part of this pro-
vmce that I could find; no matter which h.d undergone anv ehan-e'from the action oi
subterraneous fires, neither in the mountains, nor among the stones in the beds of the
torrents; that throughout this province neither lava, tophus, nor scoria; of any deserin-
tion IS to be lound. In the interior of the plain I saw no more than two sprin(?s ol
coldheiritic water; but near St. Eupheinia, biyond the isthmus, there is a plentiful
spring of hot sulphureous water: neither of these, however, can 1 a.crlhc to fire, since
the spontaneous decomposition of pyrites is of itself suHicient to account for their pro-
duction. I lay particular stress on this assumption., as it tends to invalidate the oi)inioii
ol such as nnagine a subterraneous fire to exist below this proN ince : did it exist it would
shew itsell less equivocally. Neither in the plain, nor in the mountains bv which it is
•surrounded, or at least those which form the square, are there either mines, suli)hureous
matter or bitumen, notwithstanding the assertions of historians. In almost the whole
ot this boundary the granite is visible, and the soil is composed of nothing but elav, sand,
and pebbles. •
Notwithstimding there was an almost uninterrupted succession of earthquakes from
the 5th of lebruary to the following month of August, three distinct epochs mav be as-
signed them, as far as they regard the places under which Jiev acted with givakst vio-
lence, and their consequences. The first comprises the shock; from the 5t'h to the 7th
February exclusive; the second that of the 7th Februarv, at one in the afternoon, and
tothoTe^ ''"' '"'^^^■'■^^^^ "l^ ^" ^'^^' 28th Xlarch; and, lastly, all poslerior
The sliock so injurious to the plain of Calabria, that which buried more than twent\
thousand inhabitants beneath the ruins of their towns, happened on the 5th of Februarv
at halt an hour alter noon. It lasted but two minutes, so short a space of time did it re-
quire to overturn every thing, and spread a general destruction. I cannot give a better de-
scription of us effect than by supposing a number of cubes of sand, moistened and fashion-
ed by the hand, being placed at short distances from each other on a table ; then by striking
nf H,V""'t? "sc of the words focus and centre of explosion, not because I i.iiairine the primitive cause
l^J^^YZlu:^::t"V'"T''''^^^^^^ ''^•^'''^ '-^ iuexpUunim,- the en\-c",
province phcnomcnu themselves the cause of the agitation of tiie soil of tliis unfortunute
o o 2
2B4
JJOtOMXl'.t.'
ui^oiii; f .\ noN on rnr,
ihc bottom of tlie laljlc irpcatcclly, and vioK'iuly sliakiii}^ it in an hori:',o!U:iI litu; l)y one
olits corners, an icka may be Ibrmicl of tl)f violent and varions motion by which the
earth was then ai^itatcd. At the same instant were experienced sudden leaps, imdnia
tions in every direction, oscillations, and violent whirliiif^s. No bnildin,u; conld resist
this comjilication of motion. The towns, and all the houses dispersed over the country,
^vere levelled in an instant. The I'oundations appeared to be disgorj^ed by the earth which
contained them. Stones were ground and triturated w ith violence against each other,
and the mortar in which they were j)ounded u as reduced itself to dust. This earth(juakc,
the most violent of any that ever was known, occurred without the prelude of any slighter
shocks, without any notice whatever, happening as sudden as the explosion of a mine.
Some however pretend Uiat a inuflled interior noise was heard almost at the same in-
stant, lint who can place reliance on the account of those exposed to the rigour of such
a shocking calamity? Terror, desire of safety, these vre the first sensations of such as
were in houses. Again in an instant, and the crash oi falling buildings, and the dust
raised by their ruin, would hinder Uiem from all seeing or hearing whatsoever, nor even
leave them i)ower of reflection. To save themselves was a mere mechanical movement
of such as escaped ; the rest did not recover to a sense of their misfortune before the shock
had ceased. I shall not attempt to picture the horror, silence, and despair which suc-
ceeded this terrible catastrophe. The first emotion among the survivors would be joy
to find themselves alive ; the second desolation. Let us turn from this scene of horror,
and leave to others the detail of individual calamity, and particular circumstances, whilst
we confine ourselves to physical ellects.
The most \ iolent iipwartl shocks were felt in the territories of Oppido and Santa Chris-
tina. There also took place the most violent convulsions ; which circumstance has caused
the idea Unit these towns were placed over the focus of explosion. But unlike others I
shall not say that the cftect of the earthquakes, the ruin they occasioned, were in inverse
ratio to their distance from the centre, or that the greater the distance thence the less the
devastation. Supposing this, the towns of Sederno, Groleria, and Girace, which are not
farther from Oppido or Santa Christina than Uosamo or Polistena, would have experienced
injury alike; and the villages Mimola, Agnano, and Canolo, which are much nearer,
would have been levelled with the ground. But all these places were on eminences on the
other side of the chain, and notwithstanding they sufl'ered greatly from die shock of the
5th February, they were not either overturned or ruined; dieir fate can be in no respect
compared with that of die towns of the plain. I shall maintain with more reason, that
all w'ithin the compass of the mountains before described was entirely destrojed; and
•that the buildings on solid foundations above the plain, or on the ridges of the moun-
tains which surround it, were far from being equally mal-treated.
The general effect of the earthquake on the sandy, argillaceous soil of the plain of
Calabria, which, as I have described, is destitute of consistence, was that of augmenting
its density by diminishing its volume, that is to say, of heaping it; of establishing slopes
wherever there were escarpments or rapid declivities; of disconnecting all those masses
which either had not sufficient bases for their bulks, or which were only supported by-
lateral adherence ; and of filling the interior cavities. Hence it follows that in almost
the whole length of the cliaiji, the soil which adhered to the granite of tlie bases of the
mountains Caulone, Esope, Sagra, and Aspramonte, slid over tlie solid nut, the inclination
of which is steep, and descended somewhat lower, leaving, almost uninterruptedly, from
St. George to beyond St. Christina (taking the base, a distance of from nine to ten
miles) a chasm between the solid nut and the sandy soil. Many lands slipping thus
t AUTIU^UAKi;:; IN CALABHIA I' I. T f( \
28:
by one
ich the
imdulu
cl resist
;f)untry,
li whicli
\ otlur,
hcjuake,
slighter
u iniiic.
jiimc in-
of such
such as
the dust
nor even
ovemenl
he shock
lich suc-
id be joy
)f horror,
es, whilst
ituChris-
as caused
: others 1
in inverse
le less the
ch are not
perienced
:h nearer,
lees on the
3ck of the
IK) respect
a son, that
ayed; and
the moun-
ic plain of
Ligmcnting
ling slopes
ose masses
pported by
t in almost
ases of the
inclination
tedly, from
nme to ten
pping thus
were carried to a distance from thiir former position, coverinj^ others entirely. •' W'holc
fii'ldssunk considtnibly below tiieir fornur level, without others a(Ijoiiiiii|j^ the in under
g(jing the same change, thus forming a species of l)asin, as was the Ciise above Casal
Nuovo; other fields assumed an inclination. Chasms an! fissures traversed the flats
and slopes in every direction, but geiuiMlly parallel to the course of the gorges in theii
neighI)ourhood. In the immense olive gnjunds betweei\ Polistena and Sinopolo thesi:
fissures are visible at every step. Hut on the brink of escarpments was it generally that
the greatest damage and ruin oecurnd. Consi(k'ral)le i)ortions of land, (covered with
vineyards and olives, separated themselves upon losing tlieir lateral adhesion, and fell in
single masses to the bottom of the valliis, describing arcs of a circle, the radius of w hich
was the height of the csearj)ment from its base, in the same manner as a book standing
on its edge which falls flat. In such cases the upper part of the soil upon which the trees
grew were thrown to a distance from their former site, and remained in a vertical pos-
ture. I have seen trees which continued to i)ush out leaves, and which did not even
appear to have suffered, notwithstanding they had remained for a year in a position so
contrary to that perpendicularity they so constantly aflecc. In others, enormous masses
losing also their lateral adhesion, fell on inferior slopes, and descended thence into the
valley; to the impulse received from their fall was superadded the further movenunt
given to their course by other lands which pressed upon their rear, thus impelling them
to a considerable distance ; still they preserved their form and position, and after afford-
ing the spectacle of amoving mountain, established themselves finally in the vallies. It
is here essential to remark, that the sandy soil of the plain, not forming a mass of con-
nected jjarticles, was a bad propagator of motion, so that the lower part would receive
more impulse than what it would transmit to the surface. This is the cause why the
bottom in most cases gave way first, and the base running awa}', almost similar to a fluid,
from the upper part to which it served as a supjwrt, this latter sunk down, detached in
very large masses, from the lands to wliich it was formerly connected. The surface of
the soil being strongly bound by the interwoven roots of trees, and the thickness and
tenacity of the bed of vegetable and argillacvous eanli, it is nowise singular that many
of these lands should be preserved almost entire, notwilhstandingthe falls, violent shocks,
and long courses they made. But let us follow the effects of the shock of the 5th
of February.
Where the upper part of tiie escarpment gu\c way first, or where the surface of the
earth separated into fragments, which broke away as the base crumbled from beneath,
disorder was at its height ; trees half interred presented indifferently their roots or
branches; and where in such cases the wrecks of houses were mingled with those of
the mountain, no semblance remained of w hat had existed before, and the v, hole form-
ed a picture of chaos.
At times it happened, that a surface, w hich In- its fall and tlie inclination of the de-
clivity formed below it, received a strong impulse of projection, provided it was op-
posed in its course by any small intervening hills, it covered them, nor stopt till it had
past beyond. Where a similar surface encountered the opposite declivity, it struck
» Accidents of tliis kiiul luive >i;ivon rise to singular ilispiitcs. It hus Ix-cn rcqnisite to decide to
■whom the hmds bcl(.n|rt;d whit l» Innicd those of others. Tlie carihfUUiLcs of CuUihria huve caused
the ijrciucst revolutions in the forumes oi'iiKlivi<hiaIs. Many of tiiose whose whole property consist-
ed of moveables, debts, ready moiuy, t<.e. iuive ix.cn recinr.eii lo hcgj^ory, however great their former
wealth ; others hitve acceded to inheritiinccs who never could have nourished such hopes, au'' which
would not have been theirs but fort!:;; eiuin. desinir;. on c i' ihe most numerous fumiiies. Almost all
the riih were losers, and gainers almost all ihe poor. 'J''ie \M^r over and above their plunder charg-
ed what tlit.y pleased for their laboiir, wliirli couiii not l)e 'lispvnsed with by those who rcpiired huts
to dwell in, or w.uiteil assisliincc to redeem what was covered by the ruins, and their charge was in
conseciucncc c.\orbitiUit.
i^^
J80
I'or.o.Mihi
»)Ib JLU J .( i ION e).\ I li h
yf^ainst it witli vif.ldicr, and /aisid itsilf up a Iitil( , and fonmd a sp^ ksoi' ( r.idlo. \\'Iicn
flic oppf)sit( sidis of a valUy IcII auay at llii' saim time, iluir wrecks nut to^ailur and
ihtir shock raised little liills in the centre of thi- space tliey co\ered. 'I'lie most com-
mon effect, that, of which annniher of examples is seen in the territories of ()|)pid();iMd
.Saint (hristina, and on the hanks of deep valliis or K'^r};( s, in which run the rivers
Maiili, Hirbo, and Tricucio, is, wlure the inlirior base havinj;- ^iven way, the iip|)cr
i,n'onnds have falU n jjcrpi ndicularly and successively in f,Tcat trenches, or parallel bands,
each assumini; itsrespc ctivt position, so as to resemble the benches of an amphitheatre,
the lowest l)ench or terrace is sometime s lorn- hundred fee t below its first position. This
.mionj;- others is the case ()f a vineuird situated on the border of the river Tricucio,
near a new r(jrmed lake, it is in this manner divided into four parts, which linnj^ in tcr.
races one abfMc the <;lher the lowest pari of the terrace fell from a lieiLdit of four him-
dreel feel. "^
The trees and vines that were growin}; on lands removed in mass rcce iv cd no injury ;
even men upon them, some on trees, others tillinj,^ the land, were thus transported 'in
a curious manner for several miles, without snirerinjr any h.irm; nvmy such examples
have; been (|iiuted to me which are autlienticated in dillerent relations. '
The coni,e(juences of the eruml)Iing to pieces of these elevations have been, a
siMiteninj; of ihe v allies, or the entire covering of them in various places where op.
posite banks have met, so even as to obstruct the current of water and form a great
lunnber of lakes; the fdling up of gorges and reneleringeven the surface of intersected
lands; transportation of the inheritances of certain individuals on to the possessions of
oilxrs, an interrupiiuti of conununicalion, and a new face aflbreled to the whole
ce)untry.
TheeUher phenf.mena produced by the first shock, and originating thin in were, u
suspension of the course of rivers, the instantaneous drying up of some, and Uieir after
increase. The e.\j)lanation ol" these facts is easily given', tliey were (jwing to the sudden
percussions upwards and downwards which the'earlh then e'xpirienced ;'and to the cen-
trc of the plain being raised and the slojie of the currents of the river being inereaseel
which caused them to run with greater rapiditv. The upper waters retainee'l by a kind
ol dam were kept in stagnation; but, the cause- removed, a level was re-established, and
the streams somewhat augmented in volume ran muddv. In many places water spouted
from the earth to the height eji" several leet, carrying wi'di it mud" and sand. All springs
w ere more abimdant. Some sulphureous and liepatic waters made their appearance lor
some days anel ul'terwards disapi)eared. These phenomena are all the conseciuence of
the accumulation. All springs have an interior reservoir; many subterranean cavities
are full of stagnant waters which accpiire a taste and smell of hepar, either owing tojju-
trcfaction, or the decomposition of pyrites; if by the contraction of the soil or the fall
ofuppcr bodies tjie capacity of the reservoirs be'come less, they spring forward with a
force proportionate to the lateral compression, ;ind bear away w'ilh them the bodies with
which they are mingled. This increase of springs is a further cause of the increased
volume of rivers. Nobody has been able to tell me precisely whether the hepatic waters
which ran at the time, w ere cold or hot. Those which I have seen and which mix now
with the waters of N'aeari, a river which runs by Polistena, and widi those of the river
Tricuccio near Oppido, are cold. The phenomena ol' water spouting is peculiar to the
first shock; on the other shocks taking place it did not occur on account of the soil
having acejuired already the greatest density and constriction of which it was capable.
Moreover in the whole of the country Ttravelled dirough, notwithstanding the most
diligent research, I found no indications or symptoms ol a disengagement nor subter-
raneous currents of vapour, or any vestiges o'f cither lire or flame. Every circumst;mcc
K.\;(4 ilC^^UAKE ,; IN CAl. \WniV U 1.1 HA.
287
(»r (!iis (Icsrriptiori nl;if(tl li\ nmiy accounts has Ikih contradicted hy tlu ti alimony
of tlic wry |Hr-.<iMs rili.rid t(t lj\ iIk' aiitliors. Ii is hut an lasy t.isk to make a pea-
sunt, still lull or terror, iind who li:.s no intcnst in the circumstances rcspi'ctin^;^ which
he is (|U(stioiicd, rij)ly ;.s n»i|_'!ii In' wished. It is easy mouj^h to make tluni answer
yes to whitouthiy areask<(l. 'I'luy arc nniConnl} hut half inlornud iu( n ; who
have added to Uivir n lations tlic most siu};id ir and most contradictory circumstances,
rrf)m their desire to attril)ute to tin: late eardupiakes of Calahria all the phenotuena of
which tlu-y luive an idea, from knowiuj^^ wh it had rxcurred on similar occasions. .More-
over the major part have had sonu' petty s\stem to support, and have l)eendesiron:i of
arran}j;injreircum>itanees so as tu make iluin sfjuare with what they jjud tr.iced the outlineb
of Ik fore.
Let us take a r.ipid \ iew of tiie v.nrif)us towns destroyed hy the second shock, and exa-
mine the chief circnmsiances atienckml on their destruction.
Hosarno a small l)orouL!;h on a saiid\ hill, a sliort distance from the river Metramo,
was overturntd. 'I'he prince's castle, the churches, .nnd houses exhihit nothiu}^ hut
heaps of ruins; some low houses t xcepted, all of which are violently siiook, and some
hare walls w hich stand l)_\ themselves, th'. rest is a heap ol' ruins.
The course of the river Metramo was lor an instant suspended near the hridf^c of Ro-
farnt) ; hut shortly after its waters (lowed in {greater ahundance than hefore and were dis-
turhid. It is even |)retendcd that it was entirely dry* for the space of sf)me minutes.
Polistena, a toler,ihl_\ 1 ir,i;e, rich and populous town, was huilt on two sandy hillsdi-
vided hy a river w hich liad a somew iiat di ep hed. Tliis town is ahsolutely levelled,! not
a sinsj^le house remained, not a sinp;le jiiece of w all.J Many houses were precipitated
into the river, the earUi of the hanks of which had ^iven way. The thick and very
solid walls of the Dominican mon;,stery are f lUcn in large hloeks. TLc hill on the right,
• Tlic pl.iin on the rij^lii suU' ul' Mctnuno m ar the l)r'ul;^i' is roiulcnincd to sterility from tlic intindu-
iioii ol' a torrent whii !i Ic.ivi s on it i'\iry yiar ;i IVtsli cdia ors.mil ;inil mud, nuikini; it a marsli.tlie at-
nii.ispl;ii\' iilioiit \\ liicli is iiil'iiU'd. A tiillinj^rspi luc is all that is ic'iuisile to form a lu'd Ibrtliis tor-
niu.and risiiuin its covirsi-. Tho f^ovirnmint Iiowlvit disd.iins to tioiiblc itself on such paltry ulVairs
of udmiitistKaioti.
t 1 liail seen Uri^^io and Mfssina.aiul mourned the fair ofiliusi- two towns; 1 s.iw not in llicm a sin-
frji' lKil)ilal)lo liousc, notoiu' l)Ut wonhl rt'ciuiif ix-l)uildin;^ from its liasi', yil tin.' ski'lflons of thi-sc two
low nsrr mail it'd,tiu' j^i'i.a r [)M\. ofilic walls stand inj; l)y tlii'msulvi;s. W'iiat tlicst; towns lormi'rlywure
is visiljlc. Mrssina still ai a disiamc pivsi-nts m\ imprrfict ima^jc of its ancient splindour. Kvcry in-
lialiilant miii;lit disiin:j;uisli either his house or the i',roniid on which it stood. I had seen Tropeaand
Nii'otera. in whii h few houses I'tinaiiad Imt had received jj;iiat damai^e, and in which many were
wholly fallen in ruins. I iVanied no idea of i;i'eater misfortunes th.in those which had he:"allen these
towns; liiil when I saw tiu' ruiasof l'(.ilisiena, the fust town of the IMain which presented itself, when
I suiveyed heaps of stones which were destitute of form, and i^ave no conciption of its havinij ever
bei-!i a town ; w hen I heheld that nolhiM)^ had escajied desliiiclion hut all was level with the dust ; I
expel ienced such ami\ed s' ns.itidu c.f terror, compassion, and horror, has for sometime dipi'ivvd me.
of my l.icuhi.s. 'I'liis si)cct.icle however Washut the prelude to sliil more wi'etched scenesoa the rest
of my cNcur^ion.
The impres.iion made upon me 1)y the sijj;lit <if Messina was totally ('lUerent. I was less struck by
its ruins than the st^litudi' and silence whicli rei;';ned within its walls. One is alTectedby a melancholy
terror, a nuiurid'ul sadness, in tiMversiniija lai'ue city and visiiinjj its dillerenl(pi.iru;rs, to meet with no
soul livini^ to luar no luiman voice, no sound bi I the tpiivi'rin^ of doors or shutters suspended to frafj-
lutnts of walls, and acted upon i)y the wind. The mind i;i then rather ■ vcrcome by the wcijjjht of its
feclin>»:s than terrified ; the catastrophe seems directed aj^ainst the human species, and the ruins which
are seiii appear to be no other than the ellect of depopulation. Such would be the picture of a town
w here a pestilence had ra|j;ed.
The whole population of Messina took refugi; in barracks of wood without the city.
\ This town buried one half of its inhabitants beneath its ruins. Such as survived this fearful cata-
strophe dwell in '>arracks placed on a Hal which overlooks the ajtcicnt town and on winch it is in con*
tenipUition that the new town shall be built.
iHB
DOLoMiEi; s Difir.ERi A HON ON tiir.
near tlu* Capuchin roincut Is ( oiisidc rably .sunk. TIkto art* a tuiml)Cr of fissiiri's in {h
s(/il and its di ptrssidi) iDiitiiiiics tn the* ibot of the mountain a K'a^'nc iiDin tht. town.
In the whole olt hi.' ntif^hhonrhood of the to\vn are inuneions lissiireh.
Saint (leor^^es.a Hinall touiia lea^'uc and a half distant IVoin PolistenaMilTend scarcclv
at all lioni the shock ol" the .'ith Fihrnan , on aceount of its luing built on an emi-
nenci", situatid on a roek, adhiiinj^ to the grtal (hainof the ApiHiiines. It afterwards
received considerable dama|;e fr(jn» the earili<iiiakes of 7di Kbriiary and 2Hih ol
March.
(inco I'rondi, a pretty borou}jjl\, hall' a le;!f,'ii(' distant from Polistena, in a very feriilc
])lain, was entin ly ruined. An ancii nt tower of Moorish work, stpiare situated in the
middle ol the town, and iar^e enough to serve as a castle and dwelliii;^ for the lord of
the manor, was i xceedin}fly solid as mu(!> on ;'ocoinit ol the jjjreat thickness of its walls,
as the fjnality of its cement, which had bound 'lu works together in sue ha manner as
lo make the w IkjIc as Ihni as a roek ; it was overturned, and in its fall broke into a number
of larj^e blocks of astonishing; vohnne and hardness. One of these blocks contain an
entire stair-case. Here it semisas if the earth had disgorged from its bowds the vcr}
foundations of thi dill'erent buildings.
In going from Polistena to Casal Nuovo, two leagues distance you pass the N'accari, a
riser which has dug its bed in a soil iiitirely of sand ; there is a source of cold sulphu-
reous water, which empties itself into the river, a short distance from Polistena ; this
source was very abimdant on the 5lh of February and following days; the smell of it
also was very strong, but by degrees it resumed its natural state. In the country
through which this river Hows, and on its banks, several springs spouted up water on the
first shock.
Casal Nuovo, a pretty town, situated in a pleasant plain at the foot of the mountain^
with wide and straight streets, and low houses,* was entirely levelled, so as that one
stone remained not upon another. This town was built after the tartlujuakesof l(k)8,
which devastated Calabria. 'I'he utmost precautions were used to prevent a ruin simi-
lar to that we w itnessed. But notwithstanding its streets were very wide, and its houses
very low, nearly half the population was cru>.hed beneath the ruins. The marchioness
of Gerace, the lady of the munor, and all about her wen the victims of this shock.
The w hole of the soil of the plain w hich sunounds Casul Nuovo is sunk. This depres-
sion is particularly apparent above the borough at the foot of the mountains. All the
sloping lands which leaned against this mountain have slided lower down; leaving be-
tween the moving ground, ancl the solid, fissures .several leet in width which extend from
three to four miles. Certain portions of those; iaiiels thus slipping down descended into
the plains and overwhelmed others at coiisider.i!)ie distance from their former site.
In going fre^m Casal Nuovo lo Sahta CiirlMtiiii, wuhin a space of six leagues one tra-
verses a country intersected in a most extraoidii.ary manner, by gorges, ravines, and
deep vallies ; a country, which has consev ueniiy b' en the theatre of great revolutions.
Not a step can ) ou make in this part w iihout discerning either fissures in the soil or places
whence the soil has fallen away.
Terra Nova, this was a small town situated on an elevated flat, on three sides of which
were deep gorges, which gave it the appearance ol" being placed on a high mountain.
But this elevated flat was at the txtremily of a plain which extended to the foot of the
• The appearance of Casal Nuovo was dcli^^litful w lien seen from a diBtancc. At llie corner of every
hoube a tree was planted and a viae whidi iijave shade ; so thai (he sU'cets had the appearance of tlie
covered alley of a garden.
t All i in^u.shKa fN i-Ai. \uii(.\ t/i.rn\.
269
iiioiuitaiu and is of (Xtnnu' H rt'ility.* This touii tiijf)yi(l :m rvrillcMt air, a hranti-
i\\\ pr()>|H(taiul the iidNaiitaj^c olcMtllt iit water. 'I'lu positirjii wliiili sicjirtd it tlusf
»Klvanta}i;iH »)' ( ;isif)iit{l it lu cxpcriiiux' a (Icsiriiction, riflictinu on uliiih aloni" must
mukc one sliiiddtr. A part ol the sr)il f^avc ua) , and in its course to the middle of
tlu' rivir M.in> carried witli '.. the lir)us{ s upon it. Tin Ir ruins, sioius, and wondu-ork
min|fU<l with the sand whiih lornud the Ixidy of the mountain, (•o^er a C()nsidira!)lc
part of the valU y commaiulnl iVoni the tow n. On the opposite side <il the moiniliin hy u
perpttidiiular lissure from top to hottom became divided, and one part, separated from
tlu olhir, lell in one l)l(»(l; on its side in the sanu- manner as a hook opi-ned in the
middle which has one |iari upri|^lit on its hack while the ollur fills to the tahle. 'I'hat
which was the upp( r jiart, on which wire houses and trees, remains in a vertical p')sitioji ,
of the housis it w ill easily be conjectured tin n: is not a vesti^^c remainin).'; ; but the tree
ha\c recei\edlittle injury. At the instant of the formation of this lissure, and the sepi
ration ol the mountain all the houses place«l immediattly above, wire perpendi(iularly
precipitated down more than three hundred feet, and covered the bottom of this chasin
uith their ruins. Nevcrthi less the \\hole of the inhabitants did not perish, the dif-
ference of their {gravitation causal the materials to re.ich the j^round before the men,
so that many were sa\ed from Ix in;; buried or crushed to death in the ruins. Some fell
directly on their fett, and inimi'dialely u-alkcd ftrndy o\er the heaped wreck, others were
interred up to their thifjhsfjr breast, and were released with a little assistance. A third
part of the town in crumblinf; to jiieces filled w iih its ruins a litt'e valley w hich was
nearly in the centre, and in which were a fountain and some fj^ardens. Never did any
country experience a ;;reater overthrow than that on which this unfortimate town wwa
situated ; never was there seen (l.struciiejn accompanied b\' more sin;;ular and varied cir
cumstances. The site of nf)t a single house can be recognized ; the surface is wjjolly
changed, nor by what remains is there a possibility of divining what formerlv this town
had been. The soil in every part gave way, the w hole was overthrown. That which
was lofty is abased, that which was lf)\v' appears, irom the dimiiuuion of the height oi
its contiguous prominences, to have been elevated. For there has been no actual eleva-
tion as some pretend. A stone well in the convent of the Augustins appears to have
been driven out of the earth, and at present resembles a small tower eight or nine feet
in height a little inclined. This eflVct was produced by the consolidation and consequent
sinking of the sandy soil in which the well was dug.
The ruins of the tow n, with those of the opposite hill, have stopped the current of
the small river Soli on one side, as well as that ol a plenteous spring w Inch emptied itself
into the bottom of the opposite gorge, and having thus formed two lakes, whose stagnant
waters arc the more impetuous Ironi t'leki* being the receptacle of dead bodies and wrecks
of all descriptions.!
In nil the environs on the edges of the vallics there has been considerable shrinkings.
The whole plain above the town is intersected by numerous crevices and lissurcs, A
* In no part have I ever Inluld siuh large olive trees ; they rcsin)l)le lin>l)cr (ree&, ami planted in
({Uincinix, Uicy form most superb wdods ua dark and as sliady as a i'ori'sl ol" oaks. 'I'lie (jjfound is
clciuised and stamped round tlu; loot of e.ulitree in orderto lorni a chrular hollow riii); into which the
olives fall ; the quantity is so consideral)le,tliat they are actually broomed into heaps.
t Unless art or nature dry up these lakes they w ill complete by their pe.stii'erous exhalations the des-
truction of the small population w hich has survived the eonct.milance of so many crtuses of mortality.
The atmosphere at present is so loaded, so much infected, so moist, that in the month of February the re
were as nuuiy in&ectsund lUes in the air as are wont to be in summer on the surface of stagnant pools
VOL. V. 1' P
suo
UOLOMIkU'l OltaCRTAriON OK THK
con«i(!cml)lr (ViMsmcc must l)c travilk-il ov«r, «rr a proper sitoran \)c foiiiul for thr ni'w
tout) or ratliir iiaiiiiLt, wliicli the small ihiiuUt ol llic iiinaiiiin^ inlialiitaiit!i will luvt*
to cstaliliHii.*
A larj^c pl.intati«)ii ofolivt trirn iKlonj^inj^ to the C'tUstin monks on a lev* I witli the
Uroiiiid stiflaMl inatniill). Out p.irl ol" it was ovirtiiriud in ilu g'lrmr in uhidi ihc
A lar^c pi.inta
(Mind stifiu'i (I
riwr Soli H«)us, and the ims, sonu ol \vhi< h \v«iv not rootid horn iluiarth, have
tukcn most sinj^iilar positions, ulur*- tluy contiinic j^rowin^;. Anotlurpari snnk soinr
fathoms down ; and all tlu' r*. maindir is thriatinc'd with rnin from tlu' mimix r onissnriti
and cracks uhich intirsict it ; and for tlu- space of a mile, not a loot ui' grunnd is there
renuiinin)^ which can lu' re^^arded aslirnt and sr)lid. t
Tile villaji;e ol" Mohnpiello or Molotpiiello was sitiiatt d opposite to Terra Nova and on
the same levil, on a small pi itlorm a mile in lenjj;th andtwo hundred paces l)ro;»d, ef)in.
pressed hetwien the rivers Soli and Maro which ran in lUip vullies at their leet. One
part of the villajjje fell towards the ri^;lit, another towards the left, and of the f.^roiind on
which it was situated no more remains than a ridge so narrow that you cannot walk
upon.
Hadicina, a pretty small town in the plain at some distance from the };oru;es, was en-
lircly levelled, with the exception of a small scpiarc house of one story in tlie centre of
the town, which kept firm, and indeed has hardly sutVered at all w ithout my being able
10 assign a reason.
I shall say nothing of all the small villages the ruins of which lay seattered about the
country, as they presei\t nothing interesting.
Oppido, an episcopal sec and pretty considerable town, was placed on the summit of
an insulated mountain, or rather on an elevated Hat level with the neighbouring Plain, of
which it seems formerly to have made apart, but from which it had Ixen entirely dis-
joined by the torrents which had formed all around it gorges of an extraordinary depth.
\ccess to the town was exceedingly dillicult on account of the rapid acclivity and escarp-
ments about it. Notwithstanding this, trees and shrubs had got hold on the sides and
enveloped the mountain with a girth of wood, the interwoven roots of which gave a kind
of solidity to the mass, w hich of itself had nf)ne : for it is contposed alone of sand, clay,
and marine fragments, altogether similar lo the compoimd of the opposite hills.
The town was entirely levelled, not a single piece of wall remaining erect. A part
%)f the extremity of the Hat on which a strong castle was situated, a kind of citadel,
with lour bastions, llll away, anil drew with it two of the bastions into the gorge below.
I'his is the only subu\ii:tiun the mountain e:q)erienced; the rest remained entire, noiwidt-
• The unriciit popuLiti'in of 'INtiw Nova was two ll\(jusaii(l -loiils. li is at prrstiil ii (liurd to less
ttiun iour luiiulri (I ; ratiiiT niui'f iliaii loiiilfi ii luimli'id wen; Imi'iid in '\\v. niiiiH or ci'iislud lu dcalh,
4ti(t llir rist l\av(.' l)i ill laltiii olVhy patrui IVv< is. This small iiumhir ot'imforiimatc ptoplc have built
thcnisclvi s bari'a( ks on a ])laiii halt a mile hilow the siti-' of the furnicr town ; the (lainp and unsulid
nalni'e ol the j^roiiud in tiiis inu'i will not allow of their ever hnildiiii^ houses here.
■f I lod>i;eil at Teiia N(»\a in the h.urat k heluiiirinji; lolhe Cclesiin monks, one only of all of whom es-
caped ; it is in the midsi of the plantalion ol olive trees. I had noticed the evcuin}^ before how very
deficient of lirnmess was the Hicinx' ; '"v ima^inalion was full of all I had seen; 1 was picturinji; to
myself the sensations of the inhabitants r)f this town, at the instant of the shock; when I felt iny bed
moved by a pretty strong earlhi|vuike. I j^oi up precipitately and with some inquietude, but on ^)e^-
ceivinjj all was silent I conjectured that this shock though very stron^ij was nolhinjj comparable to those
which hud before been fi It at tht instant of the various catastrophe, seeiiifj it occasioned not the sUj^jht-
cst alarm to those who were at rest in the self-same barrack. I ajjain retired to my bed, hut it wili
readily be conceived not to rest during the remainder of the niij;h(
KAIl ril(|U.\KP.3 IN CALARHIA UMNA.
291
^tniulin^^ its t!icaq>mc'ntN, in all likdiliood Mist.iiititl l>y (Ik strong ^^irtli iiHordcd hy thr
ruotH ol (lie luiiiuroiiH ircisaiul <>liiiil)s \)\ uliich it was incircUd. **
lithe soiloi Oppiilo r(si>t(.(l iiiHOiiu iiuaHtiri: tin. \iolcii(T ul' the shock, this was tint
thf case with tlu' opposite l>;inks; the < riiinl>hiij^ away of the r.irih w:\>, tin n iinincnsi'.
The lallol the |;;rouiul, and ( oinidcraliK pottiutisol the hi", iilli d thi valht taiid Ibrnictl
lakes, by whii h the town is now snrroiiiuUd. Tlu so lakes whiih siirroiiiid the nvniti-
tain will, by <le(<rc'(s, he lilUdl*) theaeeiiiiinlatioit of sand l)ron|;lit by the torn iits and
the wreck ul' the higher grounil>. j Already is there one uhieli his been tilled ni ihist
manner.
It is not, however, in the immidiatc nei)^hboini»f)od of the town that the j;reatest de-
vastation has been ex neritiiecd; bnt, a mile or two niiles IVoin it, in the <leep vailieji
Ibrined by the rivers I'rieueio, Hirbo, and novaiiio. 'I'hen all ihrj-ie iic.eidenls uhit h I
noticed in the be^innin^ oi this disMrtaiion o(<'nrred. There sand and clay ran like
torrents of lava or as ii the y were carried awa} by water. In othi r pi act s, considerable
portions of luonntains ran i'orst visal miUsin thcirwa} to the vallies, without i'allinf^ in
pieces, or ev».n chan^in}; their shape. |''.n'.ire lii Ids, eo\eretI widi \ ines and olives, were
preci[iitated into the bottoms without chanf^in^ the horizontal position oi' tlu ir surface ;
others were somewhat inclined, while otlKrsa|j;ain were placed verii(;.lly, ike. Uc. The
fall of o|)posite escarpments, and their al'u r re neonnti r hav( lornud dams of sever^il miles
in thickness, stopped the course of streams, and produced ^;reat lakes, which the f^overn-
ment isemplojed in attemptiii^^ to dry. lor this purpose it will be necessary tl'.atdetp
canals should be cut the length of three or four miles through the rubbish, which will
take up a lenmh of time, aiul jirove extremely expencive; both the labour and expencc
of which mi|^ht be saved, if the _u;overnmenl but niieeled that nature, in a few years,
>voii!d fill up these lakis, as she has done many others; that an infected atmosphere is
much less to be apprehended in such places at a distance from habitations, and that the
expencc could be much better emi)loyed in the neighbourhood of Terra Nova, or other
parts of Calabria.
Belf)W Oppido, at a distance of three miles, was situated the small village of Castellace,
built on the brink of an escarpment, which gave way, and fell into the valley. The ruins
• Who would imagine tliat tlio inluil)it;imr> oi' ()|)pi(li) afiiT il\c ckslniitiuii ol" ilicir town and tin;
various (lisaslci's lo wliicli it luid liciii Hiil)j<.ct, should ytt l)c piniial to th.a uiit'oiiuiiiitc spot, (ioviin-
nuiit pointed out u sili- for u new town. It chose a plati; ealUd I.atul)a, a ha^jue distant iVoni the-
t'unucr. Tlie ^rialer pari ol' tlic inhabitants ol)jei t to ^oini; tliither. They lonsider us u soit ot" ty-
ruliny tlic uttcin|>t to take iheiu away from their fornier pUiie of abode to ol)iitj;e tl\L>iu to ii\lial)it j
moist and unhealthy i»iain wjiich (cntain^ no materials for building;. Thev say in fuvour of tiuir in-
sulated Hat, tliut it lias pro\eil its solidity by rtsistinjj tlu; nu)st vi(di nt siiorks withoiii llin<•hin^J; in tlif
least ; that the stones and wood-work of llie houses in ruins will serve tli( ni to Imild otlu ts ; that its
uir is t'xceilenl; th.it they aie nearer to their possessions, and that, collielively, these diH'erent a(Uaii-
tuK«suiore than compensate for the inconvenience of havinij; no water on the flat; ami as^unle that
beiny accustomed to fetch it from the bottom of the valli( s, use h.;s made thi,ilal)our of no eonsidera-
tion. A schism has hence arose anions the remains of this population, part have compliid with the
wishes of ^!;overntncnl and are -^ijone to 'I'uba; whilo the rest remain on tlu' ruins of Ojjpido. I was
surroimded by them on my (!;*''"K ^" ^'**'^ that town. 'I'luy seemed to have for^;fJt the misfortunes
occasioned by the earilupiake, ihiir minds bein^- wholly t nj^rossed by the injury which ihiy pretend-
ed had been (li.ue them. Tlu y particularly complained bitterly ot i)i inp,' di privedof a mass which had
been accustomed to be snidiua hut set api.ri for the purpose from the commenci nientof their disasters.
t Hefore 1 1'caciied the moujitain of Oppido I couid not con( five how it was possible to ap|)roach it;
1 wa*- sepai'atcd Iron) it I)) ilie pl.ice wheie a lake had been, which was hlled. This basin, full of a
tine saiid on whi( h tiie river rims, seems a vast i;ulf of mud which the eye contemplates wiihfeai', and
which is a lumcired paces ov<f. My ^!;uide inlormcd me we IukI to pas;» it in order to reach tlie old
town. I risked a step or two w ith souic aiiprchensions but made conlident by the experiment, and
fintlin^ that w 'lat ajjpeared to me a j;t'..y und sofiisii nnid was iiim, I crossed this lake of sand throuj^h
a depth of water wliicb leached my knee and took a little crocjkid path, by which I was enabled to
..'limb among the bushes up an escarpment which appeart;d to me in;icccssiblc,
V V 2
292
DOLOMIEU'S DlS^ERl ATION O.V THE
of some houses which remain on the niountaiii, are the m\y indications of its position,
or former existence. 'I'he vili;i;jje of Cossoletto has exptrienced nearly a similar fate.
The town of Santa Christimi, sitnaitd ahnost at the loot of the great monntain Aspra-
montc, on a sharp sandy hill, surnjniided by gor|';is and deep vallies, was circumstanced
nearly in the same manner as Terra Nova, and exiKrieneed similar destruction. The
houses with part of the hill were precipitated from top to bottoni. A number of chinks
and fissures intersect it from its summit to its base, so as to give room to apprehend that
the remainder will yet give way. The whole surface of the country is changed. The
territory of Santa Christina, cut in alike manner by a luunber of gorges and vallies ac-
companied by escar|)ment.>>, experienced the same fate as that of 0[)pido.
Tlie territories of Terra Nova, Op|)ido, and Santa Christina, are those on which the
eartlujuakes occasioned the greatest damage, and produced the most extraordinary re-
sults. This has made it conceived that the ibcus of the shocks of the 5th of February
was beneath this i)art of the plain. I shall not deny that the concussion may have been
more violent there than elsewhere ; but the nature of the soil, and the gorges by which
it is intersected, very much contributed to the destruction of the towns, and greatly as-
sisted in occasioning the disorder observed in their neighbourhood.
Following the circuit made by the base of Asi)ramonii.>, ^ve come to the small town of
Sinopoli, and the borough of Saint Euphemia, both built at the foot of the mountain,
and both destroyed, yet not levelled with the groimd.
Bagnara, a pretty considerable town on the coabt, built on an eminenrc, with an
escarpment towards the sea, was entirely levelled. The houses were i"Vi.i)>iuut d one
upon anodicr in such manner, that with difiieuky can it be distinguished it had e\er been
a town.
Seminara, another town on the coast, was destroyed, but not levelled entirely,
like the last.
Palma, a well-pco|)lcd trading town, is only a heap of ruins.
Without enlarging- the list, what I have said will be sufiicient to demonstrate -lat the
singular circumstances attendant on the earthquake were the natural etl'ect of u violent
shock on a sai.dy ground previously opened and torn by torrents. It is fvnihermorc
visible that on a space six leagues in lengtii by six in breadth, lying between the river
Mutramo, the mountains and the sea, not a single edifice remained entire ; one may even
state that scarcely one stone was leftu))on another, and that there was not in this whole
space a single acre of ground but what had either changed its ligure, its position, or un-
dergone material revoluiion.
While the plain was given up to total destruction, buildings in its neighbourhood,
foiMidcd on solid bases on eminences, escaped from equal devastation. They felt the
shock severely, and many houses were damaged. But if this shock of the 5th of Fe-
bruary had been the only one, had it not been followed by those which succeeded it,
almost uninterruptedly for six months, none of the upper towns would have been ren-
dered uninhabitable. It seemed as if the power which in every direction had shaken the
plain had not been sufiicicntly strong to raise a greater weight, such as that of the moun-
tains by which it is inclosed. Hence Nicotera, Tropea, and Montedoone, towns built
on the mountain of Cape Vaticano, or on its prolongation with the boroughs and villages
dependant on them, suffered scarcely at all. Their overthrow was reserved for a more
violent exertion of force, such as shook the bodies even of these mountains themselves,
on the 18th of March following. The borough of St. George, only four miles from
Potistcna, as we have before remarked, but placed on a mountain, was before then but
little injured. The boroughs and villages situated on the ridge of the mountain oppo-
liAnTH (QUAKES IN CALABKIA ULTRA.
293
or un-
sitc to Messina, and the small town of S(;ylla itself, were not entirely destroyed. On all
these mountains the shocks were less violent, less monientary; the movements were not
io nuick, so irrcfrular, nor even the upward percussions similar.
Rej^f^io and the neighbouring places were rendered uninhabitable, but not levelled. It
was not even the first shock wiiich damaged them the most.
On the opposite side of the Apjunines, towards the east, the cartlupuikc of the 5th
February was very sensibly felt; all the towns in this quarter sufflred cither more or
less, some planks gave way, steeples and several churches were thrown dowi houses
were damaged, l)ut very few were wholly overturned. The number of persons who
perished was inconsiderable.
Every where, except on the Plain, the shock was preceded by some slight oscillations
and a subterranean noise, which all agree proceeded from the south-west.
The earthquiikes which succeixled the fatal epoch of the 5th of February, although
sensibly felt in the plain, occasioned there no further injury. No more houses remamed
to be thrown down, and the ground was consolidated by assuming slopes; and more-
over a greater density occasioned bv the shocks. All acclivities had become less by an
extension of iheir bases. 'J'he earth therefore ^vas shook in vain in that unhappy coun-
try; it took no iinther part in diis dreadful tragedy.
The shock which happened in the night of the 5th of February increased the damage
done to Messina, Ueggio, and other towns already affected by die first earthquake. It
was fatal to the inhabitants ofScylla, owing to the fall of a considerable portion of the
mountain into the sea, which raised the waves, and gave them a violent undulation.
The billows broke witli lorce upon the strand, and the lower part of the town, where
the prince ol Sii.opdli, the iord ot the manor, accompanied by all his attendants and a
great number of iuhaljiiants, h .d taken refuge; these billows threw diemseives forward
on -lie shore, and on retiring drew back with them all tliat were there.*
'i'iit earthquake oi die Tih oi February, at half past one in the afternoon, was very
vioiii.t; but it did not exercise its greatest violence in similar places to die former; it
seemed as if the locus or centre of explosion has ascended six or seven leagues higher up
towards the north, and placed itself beneath the territf)ry of Soriano and Pizzoni. This
earthquake eH'ecud the destruction of the borough of Soriano, and the dependant vil-
lages, ol a large Benedictine convent, very solidly constructed, subsequently to the earth-
quakes of 1639, andol the Chartreux convent, called San Bruno, or Stephano del Bos-
co; all of them places which had been respected by the first shock. It concluded with
overturning Lauvana, GalaU'o, Arena, and other neighbouring districts. Of Mileto it
made a heap oi ruins, and perfectly laid waste the territory of a circle, the diameter of
which might be from t\\ o to three leagues.
The territories of Soriano, Aretia, and Soi'ctto, the soil of which was sandy, andm-
tersected by ravines, experienced likewise great mutation of surface fiom Uic fall of its
eininences,'and displacement of its lands. The mixture of sand, clay, atid decomposed
granite, of which the hills are c()mi)oui>ded below the town of Miletio, gave way in se-
veral places, and apparenilv ran like lava.
It is highly worthy of re'mark, that die eardicjuakc of the 7th of February was felt the
most at Messina and Soriano, places very distant from each other ; w hilst it was mostly
• This circumstance, attendant on the earthquake, w'.iich happened on the ni!j;ht of the 5th of Fe-
bruary, has been the most variously related, and has occasioned the most coninicntf, of ui^y, many fiUsi-
tics being added to the true account. It is well authenticated that tiie waves carried away twelve
hundred persons, who had taken rcl'uge on the shore, in ti-.e number of whom was count Sinopoli.
But that the water was hot, that the bottom of the sea burnt 1 these are particulars neither true nor
likely.
,t; 1:
294
DOLOMIEU S DISSERTATION ON lilt
less violent in all the intermediate country, throughout which however a considerable
noise was heard.
The 28th of March was another fatal epoch which carried ruin and desolation into
countries, the inhabitants of which were already half recovered from their apprehension
of danger from earthquakes; for not having received material damage from the first
shocks, they had flaitered thems( Ives with being without the pale of this terrible scourge.
The centre of explosion char.ged for a third time, and again ascended seven or eight
leagues higher towards the north, taking its seat beneath the mountains which occupy
the isthmus that unites the upper part of Uiis province to the lower, between the gulfs
of Saint Euphemiaand Squillaei. The most violent upward shocks, indications of the
sjjot where the strongest eflbrts were made, were principally below the mountains of
Girafaleo, about the centre of the contraction. On this occasion nature displayed a much
greater force than she had done in the preceding shocks; she lifted uj) and sijook the
very bodit s of the mountains, which cover the whole space where this eartlKjuake exer-
scised its ravages. In consequence the extension of its momentum was to much greater
distance. Calabria Citra felt itseftects, and even received some injury. All the pro-
vinces of the kingdom of Naples were sensible of its shock. It ravaged indifterently
both sides of the chain; lofty sites or lowly spots were alike subject to its devastation;
nothing seemed exempt. By drawing two diagonal lines, one irom Cape V'aticano to
Cape Colonne, the other from Cape Suvero to Cape Stillo, you will within these four
points ha\ e the extent within which the sliock \a as terrible, and the destruction greatest,
and the point of intermission of the two lines will be neaily that of the centre of explo-
sion.*
This earthquake was preceded by a \\ ry loud subterraneous noise similar to thunder,
which was renewed at every shock. The motions were very complicated; some up-
wards, as if leaps of the earth ; afterwards succeeded violent whirlings, which were ter-
minated by undulations.
It would be useless to give a list of all the towns and boroughs which received consi-
derable injury on this occasion. It will be enough to observe diat all the upper part of
this province suffered materially that many towns were either almost wholly overthrown,
or rendered uninhabitable. But notwithstanding the violence of the concussions of the
28th of March, the misfortunes suffered by these countries were in nowise comparable
to those endured by the plain on the 5th of February. Here there were no towns le-
velled with their foundations; the ruin of several very badly built, such as Pizzo, was
totally ruined, and some are only a little shook. The common people have already
entered the lower j)art of these towns; and as soon as die great houses shall be reduced
to one story only above the ground-floor, as ordained by government, and they shall be
a little repaired, they will become habitable. It will however require a length of time
to free the mind of the iiiluibitanis from the terror excited by the earthquakes, particu-
larly the shock of the 28th of March, before which tiiey felt themselves in some measure
secure; and to engage the rich to leave their wooden huts, in order to inhabit stone
buildings again. As one is accustomed to judge of all objects by comparison, the fate
of Calabria Ultra affects one but little, having witiiessed the calamities of the plains, and
overgone its ruins.
• I repeat here that I use the expression of the centre of explosion, not to indicate the cansc, bnt
only to explain tJie tfi'cci.
F.AiU'H<^UAKF.S IN C A I A B U 1 A ULTHA.
'2ori
The (litfirent clfccts of tlj(^cartlu|nakcof the 5th of I'clmriry and that of the 23th of
March, can onl\ be attrihiittd to the nature of tlu' soils. In tlic Plain the base iiscH
gave way, not a house there was built on a iirm fouiulation. The motion of tiie con-
cussions was more irref^nlar, as modified by being communicated throui;h the medium
of a soil yielding more or less to the ff)rce which convulsed it, and conse(|uent!y trans-
mitting it unequally. In the mountains, on the contrary, notwithstanding the agitation
of the surface was pretty considerable, they were less destructive. The rocks on which
the towns were built communicated to them a more regular motion, ':eing better con-
ductors ; the soil after each oscillation resumed its position, and the edifices jirescrved
their fixity. Sf) a glass full of water will bear great vibration without a drop being spilt,
while it is emptied I\v the least irregular shake.
The carthfiuake of the 28th of March increased the disasters of Messina, where it
acted with violence ; it added new diunage to Reggio, and overturned a number of
houses in the small town of Santa Agatha de Regio and the neighbouring places. Ne-
vertheless it was but little felt in the Plain, which lays between the two extremities of
Calabria, where, as I have before observed, the shocks were exceedingly rough. It seemed
as if the actuating force i)asscd freely, as in an open canal, under the plain, to strike alter-
iiately the two most distant points.
The earth continued convulsed throughout the whole of 1783. I myself even felt
several shocks in the months of February and March 1784. But none of these can be
compared to the three w hich form different epochs, nor even to those which immedi-
ately succeeded them ; neither were they Ibllowed by any accidents worthy of mention.
The sea shared little of the convulsion to which the continent was subject in the earth-
quakes of 1783. The mass of waters experienced no general actuation of flux or
oscillation, nor rose above their ordinary level. The waves, which beat against the coast
of Soylla, and afterwards covered the point of the Faro of Messina, wer*^ raised by a
partial cause. The fall oi the mountain, which I have before noticed, elevated the water
on the spot, which received a new undulating nu)tion, such as constantly follows similar
causts. The shore was covered three different tinvs, and every thing upon them was
borne away by the rtfiux of the waves. The nndiiiation extended from the point of
Sicil} to the other side ol Cape Rosuealmo, continuing along the coast towards the south,
but gradually diminishing its rise from that to w hich it was swollen at ScvHa. This ele-
vation of the waves immediately succeeded the fall of the mountain. If it had been the
consequence of a general motion of the sea, if the waves had been acted upon from a
similar cause with that experience at Cadiz, on the occurrence of the earthquake at
Lisbon, diey would have had a different impulse, and the efiect would have been re-
marked to extend much farther. A violent fluctuation would have been noticed at
Messina, provided the sea had partook of the shock to which the earth was subject. The
mole, which is even with the water, to which vessels are moored, whose heads project
above it, would liav(^ been covered, and the vessels wrecked. The same eftect would
have taken place at Palma, which is higher up than Scylla, as well as upon the beach
of Tropea ; but in no part of th'<s coast did the sea exceed its bounds. What moreover
proves that the inundation at Scylla proceeded from the cause ascribed, is the circum-
stance of the sea not having risen in a small creek behind die shore, on which die waters
rose with such violence, o^^ ing to its not being in the direction of die undulation.
Notwithstanding I made numerous incpiiries, I could not gather from am of the ac-
counts afforded me any indication of the electric phenomena mentioned in difierent re-
lations, nor of any of the sparks, or disengagement of the electric fluid, to which Uic na
turalists of Naples so positively a-jcribc the origin of the earthquakes.
296
DOLOMIEr's DISSF.iriATION ON lUL
The state of the atmosphiTC was not ronstantly llic same pondiiip^ the disaster. While
tempests and rain seemed ai Messina to have eonspiied u ^h the earthrjuakes to efll ct its
ruin, the interior ol' Calabria enjoyed fine weather. In the morning of that dnadlnl
day there fell a little rain in the Plain ; but durini; the remainder of it the weather was
The months of February and Mareh were tolerably fine, and e\'en warm.
serene.
There were some storms and rain, but noiie other than are common at that season. The
fine weather ^vhieh reigned alter the eatastrophc of the 5th of February was even of
great advantage to the interior of Calabria ; but ff)r that the unfortunate remains of
the population, without shelter, or means ol proeuring any, for a length of time, owing
to the want of boards and workmen, would have died of want and the intenjperanec of
the season. On the 28th of March, in die upper part of Calabria, the weather was not
bad, nor was the earthquake attended by any storm ; there were only some showers.
From this remark it follows, that the atn\()spherc is not so strietly conneeted with the
interior movements of the earth as has been incessantly maintained ; nnd it is highly
possible that the tempests experienced in the eanal of Messina, and on other parts of the
coast, are attributable to other causes than the earthquake.
I ask therefore permission now to seek in fliets alone the cause of the earthquakes in
Calabria, and, layijig all system aside, to examine into w hat may possibly have given rise
lo the almost total destruction of this beautiful province.
The motive force appears to have resided Ix neath Calabria itself, since the sea partook
nodiing of the oscillation or convulsions of the continent. This force seems also
to have advanced progressively beneath the chain of the Appenines, in a direction from
south to north; but what power in nature is there capable in producing similar efteets?
I put electricity out of question, which cannot for a year together aeeuniMU.te in a coun-
try surrounded with water, in which every thing concurs to place this fluid in equilibrium.
But fire remains. This element acting immediately upon solid bodies, ser\ es but to
dilate them ; in which case their expansion is progressive, and produces not such violent
and in .iantancous motions. When fire, how ever, acts upon fluids, such as air and water,
it gives them an astonishing expansion ; and we know that on such occasions the rlasti-
city they acquire is capable of surmounting the most obstinate resistance. 'I'hese appear
the only means which nature can employ to occasion such efleels. But throughout
Calabria there are no volcanos. Nothing announces interior inflammation, or any fire
concealed, either in the centre of the mountains or under their louse ; and such fire
could not exist without some external s} mptoms. Dilated vapours, airs, rarified by a
heat always active, would have escaped through some of the fissures or crevices in the
soil, and have produced currents. Fire anu flame would likewise have found passage
through the same vents. A passage once obtained, compression would have ceased;
the motive force experiencing no longer any resistance would have become null, and the
earthquakes would not have been of such long duration ; none of these phenomena
occurred ; we must therefore give up the supposition of an inflammation acting imme-
diately from beneath Calabria. Let us now consider if by having recourse to a fire fo-
reign to this province, and acting upon it only as an occasional cause, we may be able
to explain the phenomena which accompanied these shocks. Let us, for example, as-
sume Etna in Sicily; and let us suppose large cavities beneath the mountains of Cala-
bria, a supposition which cannot be refused. There can be no doubt but there are im-
mense subterranean cavities, since mount I'Ltna, being accumulated by its explosions,
must have left in the interior of the earth vacancies proportionate to its enormous mass,
■he autumn of 1782 and the winter of 1783 were very rainy. Interior waters, in-
enased by those from the surface, may have run into the focus of Etna ; they would in
consequence be converted into very expansive vapour, and strike against every obstacle
iiAUilK^UAKES I.N C V I. A lUI I A L'LTKA.
29;
fo their tUlatiuion. Provided these should have met w ith rhaniuls conducting them tr.
•tlie cavities below Calabria, they would have been eapal)le of occasioning all those con
vnlsions of which I have given a description.
Let us suppose now, in order to make myself more easily understood, diat these cavi
ties with their channels of communication imperfectly re|)resenta retort laid on its side,
llic neck of which should be the length of the coast of Sicily, the shoulder beneath Mes-
sina, and the body below Calabria. 'I'he vapour rising impetuously, and driving before
it the air with which these cavities were pre\i()usly filled, woidd first strike against the
shoulder of the retort, and afterwards tin*n to engulf itself in the body. The force oi
impulsion would act first against the bottom of the vault, and afterwards by re-percussiori
against its summit, whence it would be revolved a.nd relli'cted on all sides, so as to pro-
duce the most complicated and singular movetnents. The thinnest parts of the retort
will be those whi(h would tremble most at iIk,- shock of the vapours, and most readily
yield to their iminilse. lint this water, rarefied by lire, must condense by exposure to
the cold which reigns in these subterranean places, and the action of its accidental elasti-
city cease as promptly as its first tfiorts were instantaneous and violent. The vibration
of the external surfaces ceases suddenly, without its Iieing known what can have become
of the force which has occasioned such disorder. It onl} rcconmiences when the fire
resumes activity enough to produce sudelen vapours anew, when the same consequences
result as long and as often as water falls on the burning focus.
But if the first cavity be divided from a hollow of similar descrii)tion, merely by a
wall or slender partition, and if this separating part be broken by the elastic vapours
striking against it, the former cavity will then only serve as a channel of communication,
and all the impulse will then be directed against tl.c bottom and sieles of the second.
The focus of the shocks will appear to have changed its i^eat, anei the oscillations, in the
s])ace before acteel upon with greatest \ iolenec In' the eartlujuakes, will be but feeble.
Let us now apply these necessary phenomena, and suppose one or more cavities placed
below Calabria, the seat of the earthcpiakcs. The plain, which indis])utably was the
thinnest part of the vault, is that which would first evince the impression it recievcd.
The town of Messina, built on a low shore, exj)erienccd a concussion which did not af-
fect the houses built on eminences. The motive pow er ceased as suddenly as it acted
violently and all at once. When on the 7th of February and 28ih of March die focus
appeared to have changed its position, the Plain suffered scarce at all. The subterrane-
ous noise which precccled and accompanied the shocks seemed constantly to proceed
from the southwest, in the direction of Messiaa. It resembled thunder roaring under
vaults. Thus without having any direct prools to jiroduce in sujiport of my theory, it
appears to mc to meet all circumstances, and explain simply and naturally all the pheno-
mena that occurred.
If dien Etna, as I have said, be the cause of the cartlKjuakcs, I may further affirm
that for a longtime it has been preparing the misfortunes of Calabria, by oiKiiing gradu-
ally a passage along the coast of Sicily to the foot of the Neptunian mountains. For
during the earthtjuakes of 1780, which threatened Messina throughout the whole sum-
mer, pretty strong shocks were felt all along the coasifrom Taormina to Faro. But near
the village of Alii, and the river Nisi, which lie almost in the middle of this line, the
concussions were so violent as to give room for apprehension that a volcano would open
itself a passage. Each concussion resembled the effort of a mine, w hich should not
have power to spring its object. It seems as though at that instimt the volcano opened
itself a free passage lor the expansion of its vajjours, since in 1783 the vibration was
almost null on that part of the coast of Sicily, while at the same time Messina buried
beneath its ruins a part of its inhabitants.
vor.» V. (I (^
I RAVELS IN SPAIN:
CONTAININ ;
A NliW, ACCURATt:, AND COMPIIEIIENSIVE VIEW
ov
I'HE PRESENT STATE OF THAT COUNTRV
JIY THE CllF.VJLUUi DE BOURGOAXJ^E.
[TiansUilcU from the Trench of the third edition. Paris, 1803. i
ADVERTISEMENT PREI'lXED TO THE THIRD EDITION.
THE absence of the author, who is at present in Sweden, has not prevented his pay-
ing attention to this new edition. He has been furnished with information, has made
additions, and rectified errors which had occurred in the former editions ; so that the
present has at least one advantage over the preceding, that of laying before the reader
an account of the changes which Spain has undergone since 1797.
It is deemed expedient ii' this place to make three observations, which may probably
be of utility. . , •
1. That 'as rials are frequently mentioned in the work, and many calculations are
made in them, it will be considered that the rial here meant is equal to five sous of
French monev, so that by taking the cjuarter we shall have die value in francs.*
2. That as'frc(iueutly as hard or American piasters are spoken of, dollars are intended,
which, according to the course of exchange, or value of silver, are worth from five
francs to five francs eight sous; but the Spanish piaster, which is that of exchange, is
an imaginary money, the value of which at par is about th-e livres fifteen sous. With-
out regard to this distinction, much error may arise in comi)utations.
3. The title of Don shoirld never be placed immediately belore the sirname, as is the
case in many French and sonic English works which speak of Spain. It precedes only
the christian name. Thus Don Francisco de Saavcdra should be said, and not Don Saa-
vcdra. When desirous of noticing a Spaniard by his family nauK- alone, he is called
Mons. de Saavedra, Mons. de tevallos. \V1ien a man employs the Don without a
christian name immediately succeeding, a Spaniard is used to consider it either as a mark
of ignorance, unpardonable in the inhabitants of a nation whose intercourse with them
is so continual ; or what is worse, as a mark of contempt.
PREFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1797.
FROM the prejudices which the rest of Europe entertains with regard to Spain even
at the present day, one is led to imagine that all the knowledge required respecting that
country has been drawn irom romance, or the superannuated notions respecting it
handed down in ancient memoirs ; rather should we conceive it, from our ignorance of
it, to be situated at the extremity of Asia, than at that of Europe.
♦ In the trans'.ition the value is expressed in English money.
HOUIIOOANNI. S la.WI'T,: FN G P Al N .
209
The prliicipcil (tid of this work is to modernise tlusc antique Ideas, and to rectify these
i:rrors. Not hut that within the space of the hist twenty years many Descriptions of
Spain have been i)ul)lished. Many interestinf( details, and much trutli are to be mt t
widi in the Mssayson Sjiain, by Pcyron.
Three I'jiijflish travclkTs have written on Spain : Twiss, whose work is of little cclc-
brity ; Swinburne, whose observations are famous for their justice and acutcness ; and
latterly Townshend, w ho is somew hat rtjirehensible for ilie precipitation of his decisions,
and his reliance on the credulity of his readers.
Thantereau, in 1792, published his I^ttrcs sur Barcelone, and lias pjiven a new edition
of them; and althoui^h his st} le be not the |)iuxst, notwithstanding his havinji- sacrificed
exact delineations to his inclination of displaying captivating pictures, his work maybe
read with some interest and utilit}.
As for the Voyage de l*'igaro, which, at the remonstrance of the Spanish government,
ten or twelv years ago was suppressed, and w hich since that time has been reprinted with
emendations; I mention it for those only who think that pt)ignant sallies are a eompen
sation for every other deficiency.
The author of the present work leaves to his two coinitrymen tlie merit of perpetual
effusions of liveliness and malignity. Such as read travels merely for amusement, or
having their wonder excited, will scarcely choose this for their perusal. In it the au
thor has above all things sought to be just and imi)ariia!. Hut justice and impartiality,
although they sometimes may astonish, seldom entertain.
The author of this work has ]ierhaiis no other advantage over his predecessors than
what arises from his having sojourned for a number of years, at difl'erent periods, in the
country of which he gives the description; from having had along intercourse with al-
most all classes of the Spanish nation, and having studied with some attention its manners
and its language.
In 1789 he published the result of his first remarks, after a residence of eight years.
Since then he has made two journies into Spain ; at one time spending more than a yeai
in the country, charged with a mission of importance. On this occasion he applied him-
self to obtain more recent and precise ideas of dilFerent objects. This edition differs
therefore materially in many respects from the first, and presents many objects not treated
of in the former.
In 1789 the author, for certain reasons, deemed it exi)edient to keep concealed. The
same motives no longer prevailing, he now avows himself. He hopes that his work, far
from losing by this circumstance, will possess an additional title to the confidence of his
readers. Less under constraint in expressing his oj)inion than w hat he was seven years
ago, he will now explain himself with that frankness which is the duty of every writer
who seeks to establish a claim to esteem.
He who is desirous to speak of any nation w ithout giving room for ofience, and at the
same time would abide by truth, has two rocks which he must avoid splitting upon;
flattery, which can but be insipid c/en to the object of adulation; and satire, which is
as much repugnant to equity as to good nature. The author will endeavour to pursue
a mean. Perhaps he may now be more fortunate than on his first appearance. On the
one hand, readers strangers to S!)ain imagined that gratitude had made a parasite of his
pen ; on the other, some Spaniards rook umbrage at certaisi avowals which were dictated
by truth. Emboldened by the i.iuocence of his motives, he dares in this new edition to
brave these double dangers, persuaded that in endeavouring to conciliate all, he runs the
risk of pleasing none.
a<i2
jOU
BCtROOANNK*.-. TRAVELS I» SI'VIN.
ThesuiTif course us he pursued iu his fust ixlitiou will be here followed. lMUciin|jf
Spain by Bayoiiiu, he will proceed to Madrid, pausing- l>y die way at whauvcr may ap-
pear worthy ol" digression. In t!>e capital he will exiniiiie the diftereut branches ol ad-
ministration, and those matters in parlienlar which may tend to develope the real niaiuKts
of the Spanish nation. 'I'heme he will advance to the southern part of the kni.-^dom. Re-
turning to the capital, he will make some excursions in the neif^hbourhood, particularly
one into Arrajj;on; rc-enteriiifj: I'rance tiironi^di the kinj^doms ot'V^ilentia and Catalonia.
His object is to present a I'ietnre, of which the 'I'ravels will simply I".' the outline.
His Travels might have appeared incompklc; he has used his best endeavours tha»
his Picture sliould not be so.
THE riCTlTRE OK MODERN S1*A1N
CHAPrEK I.
• MIHIACF.S, INNS, IIO.VDS. PIMAII.S HKI.MIVK lO lilSCAYl ITS LIl.KRTIKai ITh HIIVILKOES,
•I HE I'AIIUOTISM OF ITS I NH \1II T AN IS ; IMl.HOA, SI. SLHAHIIAN, VICTORIA, Uc.
IN tlie month of November 1777 I went first to Spain, as secretary of the French
embassy, a few months after the formation of the new ministry of that power; and at a
time when, to sound its disposition relative to die grand (piarrel between North xVmerica
and the modier country, was a matter of high importance.
Of the diree roads* known from time immemorial, I fixed upon that of St. Jean dc
Luz. On arriving at Bayonne, instead of taking post horses from Buyonne to Orognc,
which is five leagues distant from the former, and twofroni die frontiirs, I exchanged
my carriage, as niost travellers do, for a vehicle not very elegant, called by the Spaniards,
coche de colleras, and which, till we are used to it, excites many alarming apprehensions.
This carriage is rather strong than commodious, and drawn by six mules, to which the
voice of the conductors serves both for spur and bridle. On seeing them fastened to
each other as w .1 as to the sliaits, with simple cords, and their straggling manner of
going, as if w iiliout any kind of guidance, in the crooked and frequently unbeaten roads
of the peninsula,! the traveller imagines himself at once entirely abandoned to the care
of Providence : but on the appearance of the least danger, a single word froni the chief
muleteer, called el mayoral, is suUicient to govern and direct these docile animals. II"
their ardor abates, the zagal, who is his postillion, jumps from the shafts, wlierc he is
stationed as a centinel, animates them with his voice and whip, runs for some time by
their side, and then returns to his post, where he remains until called by some similar
circumstance to repeat his services. This incessant vigilance ofihe two conductors soon
• U is well known there are three li-equeiued roiuls leadhip; I'fom France lo Spiiin; t!ie one IVoni
St. Jean ile Luz lo Irun; another IVom Si. Jean Pied de I'oil to Uoneevaiix ; and llie lluid Ironi Uoii-
Ion to Jonuiiieio. What however is not ^.ne rally known, and what 1 only learned m 17'>5, trom an
cneMneci-whohad examined with eare, and laken drawings ofthe diiVercnl e;.»ri;e;i and dehles oi the
Pyrennccs, is, th.it from the Col de Ba^nouls, which is the nearest defile to the Mediterranean sea,
to the valley of Aran, near the sources of the (iaroime, there are seventy-live passages through the
I'yrcnnees, of which ei.i-ht-uiul-lwenly are practicable for cavalry, and seven lor carnages or artillery.
One of these latter, and of the existence of which no doubt can be entertained, is the Col des Oris,
running parallel with that of Pcrthus, on the other side of llellegarde ; for, in 17T2, llic bpaniurds,by
this passage, ciuerecl St. Laurent de Cerdu, and there invaded two oi our districts.
t This is the appellation usually given to Spain by the mh.ibilants, on a' count oi its being surround
cd by the sea, except on the side next the I'yrennees. Tiiis term was. without doubt, adopted at the
Lime that Portugal formed a part of the kingdom; since m disunion, it is, as far as regards Spain, in-
correct.
i 0 u in; o A N N r.
I R A V i: I, ;; IN S I' A I N .
»')!
icJieves the iravcllcr from his fears, uho, notwithstaiidiiij;, remains astotiishid thatmorc
accidents do not happen from so dan^'troiis a maiiiur of travl•llin^,^ He reconciles hin».
self, howevi r, morc(asily to this than to tlie Spanisli inns, which, for the most part, arc
entirely destitute of accommodation. 'I'raviIUts an l)adiy lodjfitl and served; and
those who wish for t lie hast toKrabli repast, must ihemselvrs ajjoly to the hnicher, ba
ker, and grocer. In this respect, however, tlurc haswidiin tiKse few years been a
change perceptibly ibrthe l)etter. Before tlu- administration of Mr. de Florida Blanca
there were no pul)lic carriages in Spain, nf)r one ro.id on which the traveller could i<o
post otherwise than on horseback ; and if that be excepted which passes through Gallic ia
from Pontcvedra, almost to the Western Ocean and tnrns to Corunna; another North I'
Castile ruinnn/i; from HeMiosa to the sea; those of Navarre and Biscay, the fruits of the
putriotic eflorts of their inhabitants, not more than ten leagues of tolerable road was to
be met with ;it any time throughout all Spain. This minister, who possessed an almost
unlimited iiuihority, would have rendered material service to his country, if instead of
being satisfied with half measures he had followed up with vigour the resolutions with
which he set out; he has however within the period of his fifteen years administration
sketched out some useful improvements. From 1777 to 1789 he was not at all times
faithfully a friend to the alliance w ith France, notwithstanding his professions of attach-
mcnt. His irascible disposition, and the jealousy peculiar to his country, had giveit her
more than one cause of complaint. From that period he stood forth one of the most
bitter enemies of the revolution, and would gladly have strangled it in its birth. Were
he still possessed of power it might be diilicult to do him justice : disgraced, to do so
becomes a duty.
In the first place dien, Spain owes to him the cstablisliment of a coach carrying six
passengers \vhich sets out twice every week Irom Bayomic to Madrid, performing th(
journey in summer time in six days, and in eight during winter. In the spaces of time
which intervene between the arrival of the diligences, the mules used for drawing them
are employed in forwarding persons who take their own carriages with them ; and thus
it was that I travelled in llOJ from Bayonnc to Madrid. This establishment was carried
on by a private person in 1789, but being taken the succeeding year out of his hands
it has since been continued at the charge of the king, but was suspended during the war.
That it should speedily be re-established is highly desirable, as a means of allowing an
easy intercourse for the individuals of both nations, already prepossessed in favour of
each other during the long continuance of a close alliance, and with whom a state of
w;irliire has only tended to heighten esteem, serving at the same time by affordinga flux
to that hatred which transitory circumstances had accumulated, to make them for time
to come sensible of the value of each to the other, notwithstanding the difterence of their
two governments. The bonds which unite courts are as transient as their caprices.
Family interests, interests of even minor value, have much influence on their delibera-
tions. A jiopular government once well consolidated is only acted u\ion by powerful
motions. Intrigue, ceremonial trifles, the frivolous pretensions of vanity, have less sway
over its determinations. How many sources of quarrel are there not thus annihilated !
The responsibility to which it is liable prevents the capriciousness of levity. While it
disdains to dissimulate the injuries it feels, it punishes those only which are of magnitude.
Nay I am doubtful whether it be not better for a monarchical government to have to
treat with a republic, rather than with one formed upon the same plan as its own, and
whether it may not contract alliances more durable and less liable to con\ ulsion w ith the
one than with the otlier. Thus in a marriage we frequently perceive that domestic peace
is more the result of an aflinitv of character than of an assimilation of feature : but wo
.\0-2
iin/Hi.o ANS'r.':. n; v\M'i in main
an ili;rrissin|< wide Iv fnim tlu' iisi ful i>.!;ibli!>hnKiits, ol whii h tli' Hi^' I'li i !•> 'l'i< t<>
Mr. <ii' I'lorida lil.nua.
TIk impi()viii}.^n| ilu- lii};h\\M\ ■, ch'ulU occupuil his ;itt. tiiioii. In 1777 Wnn wire
noi^ond ronU iKtwciii n.i\nmK .nul ( .ali;; » Mipt iho^i' ol hisriv, mik' N.'i.urr, and
ibiirwiiiili Kids liuiu till Ks. uri.il iiiid Afinijiu '/. to llu' tMpiial. In 17 '-. I nut with
one ol' an tsccHini d<.sr-n|.ti()ii, rmininj; thi \\h"l«' «list:tiuc In. in Irini to ioiir 1< a^'if •<
JKVOiid ijiiri;-os; ami wliuh was tuntimu d, u ilh sliort iiKi rniption, as Tir ;s Maihid
h \\uiild lia\l' hiiiKttinpl.lily prrHilid, hut lor \Ur nl.st.itks v Inch \yar, liosv. \tr lur.
tnnati it may Ik-, unilorndy tiin>\vs in the way <»l nv In! laiionrs. Tlu n' uaiit at this
tinir iKiiiKur than tuilvc ka^^ntsto \>i- coinph l< d, to make the n)ad li'«n\ h;(l.i>sn,» to
Mailndoi.i <.rtlir f'nust in i:i:n>pr. Wry liitk- is wanti^K to ih-i iV-.m Midnil to Ca-
di;:. In l77ollKlattir was almost inipa.sal)l in bad wcailHr. In l7H.'i it was in ^!:riat
nicahuri" npaind, and carria^a-s \n\;w\ to run i)ost upon u. It is now ahnosl iniiivly tin
ishiil; and comnainicaiion bttwiui ih< tuo most invportaiit ciiiis of tin p(i.in-.ula is,
ut kiu;ili, biconit both easy ami i sptiliiious. *
As lor iiuis, in spin, of thi.- ait'jution ol' the iHlorc-montioncd miuist' r, thi v an at pre
>ii'nt \ery lav irom perfection. 'I'luir inipn>vemciii, pnji eted awd niKk i tal.< n by liiin, is
u mon' dillleulltask in Sp..M» than ilsewlure. liis(>bj>ei imets uiih ol)s!ru<'tion in n-
f;anl to pi. .re, manners, fiscal ri-hts, and, in a dej;rei , li om tlie ( onsliluiion of ih' lotni-
in, uliich authorises exclusive privilejj;es ami mon(»poly, and \ests tlu po\\er, as an
iip|a.nd.;{4;e to si.L,^!iorial rii;hts ol silling; certain conunuiluii.s, Ui the lord of tli( manor,
who dekj^Mtes Jiis authority to an inhabitant; and the latter strictly enloires his ri}i;ht.
It was mcessarv lo eapiuilate upon th.si iiindian>is, and, where they conkl not In done
away uilh, to addnc-e a nnudy as will ..s po«,^ibli. Notwithstanding these impetliimnts,
for some liim. back very tolerable inns >ae lo be nul wiihinSpain. On tin nud-. :>!';;:;r
NslTuh the coaches run, some are establishul, pnn idc.d with betls, lint n, and lwii plate;
and the innkeeptrs are allowcil to keip eatai)les for travellei.s. Hi..-.idis, on this n)ail
there are others which arc pritty ^axnl, particularly in principal towns ; I ml evuy whenr
.Ise to the pnsent day om mus't i xpcct inns i iiiirely destitute of conveinnices, and so
d i si;- us'il !!};•, in short, as ii<U to falsify the accounts of travellers.
intl'.is respect, tla. Sjamiards ha've not to lock lor any speedy ami lioration. Kvery
thiiit; is linked to^'cthtr in what constinms tlie pnjspi rily of a state. Wiihoiil L;ood
hi' llwavs, ji;ood inns are not to be ixj^ctid ; and where both one and ilic oilur arc
wmnin;^', whence are to c(jme the traveikrs whose concourse in turn supports the niads
and im.s ? On the other hand, in ord; r to entice travellers, a country must jHissess some
advanla.^cs either on the side of instiuclion or [^ratification. One inusl lillur look to
meet with amusement in \isiliiif<; it, or impiove one's health. l*articularl\ il it be at one
of the extremities of Kuroi)c, thetiavilkr is there to be attracted by monuments of the
arts, by tlu i)n)spcctsof bustlinij; industry, by at^rand central conmurcc; and must not
have to sc( k in \ain the coiiiforts of lilc', the charms of society, and civil and n.li.<ious
liljutv. lint who will take a trip to Spain merely lo bihold, liere line n),ids iravusiiij^
arid plains, as is the case in ih^ two C.nliks; there, dreadful n)ads in countries blest
w ith lerliliiy and industry, as aloni- the coasts of the kiiii^doin of X'alentia and Catalonia,
lo meet with towns desertal ami in ruins, aKiiutnot ..boundini; w ithdelij^liis, lew mo-
numents, the arts lail in tluir cradle, a bnnniiL'; climate, and the iiujuisilion ?
• 'I'luri' 1ms iui-ii Idin; tiiiir \)m k i siv.c.l .iiiuiluul orn'uM.irnii; in '■(i.iiu, vi'iy (iui« k liiii very costly,
by sumliii);- r,huni;i ■. ul c.iiUli: i<)i*\.;m^ Id liio ilitUi.ui M.ii'i's ;,l'mK llu; road. I'ln si naiu-, i.l m\
rmilis, \vhi(l> uti' iml to Uie (.uri.i;ts iinlu' t\\iiiklii>v, of iiii < yt , wHl Imvtl live or six Ici^^uis wiU'
(rriuicriij .i).ili.li lii.in < ;ui l)i duat [xjA on any io;vil bit'iidi in Lurnpc.
I
V ^ " ' .
''•. ^
'"^/.
/
/
U0Un(;0.\N'NE'3 TRAVJ. LS IN SPAIN.
303
Spaniards, estimable luif^^hhours, allies worthy in so many respects to be better known,
continue to improve your roads and your inns ! We shall at least be able to traverse
your eoMJitry commodiously and easily ; but in order to ent-aj^^e our stay, in order in
please I ., many r.dvantap^es are wantini^to your nation, some are refused it bv nature,
to obtain the others must be a work of perseverance and time.
Leaving Bayounc we pass tiirough St. Jean de Luz after traversin,u^ a very uneven and
ill kept road for the sj)ace of nine or tt n miles. Afterwards one iias to cross a small
arm of the seu over a bridj^e, on the (Uher side of which is the suburb of Sibourre.
Shortly after die steeple of Orogne is discerned at rather more than a league from Irun,
the first Spanish village on the other side of the Bidassoa. This little r" t'r, which serves
as a boundary, famous in the political history of Louis XIV, fro.i. i, e island which it
forms at a small distance to the right of the place where the river is passee , was formerly
called die island of Pheasants. I'he interview between Cardinal Mazarin and Dun Louis
de Haro, whick took place upon it, and oi' w hieh the result was the treaty of the Pyren-
nces, occasioned it to receive the name of the island of Conference. Small, uninhabited,
and almost a desert ; like many persons of moderate abilities in the world, it owes its
fame to a fortunate occurrence .
As soon as the traveller has passed this island, he is in Biscay. The country which
he leaves varies little from that he enters ujjon, but the ditterence between the last
roads of France and those at the entrance of Spain even in 1793 were much in favour
of the latter. The roads of Biscay, those at least which run from nortli to south, may
be said to be among the finest in Europe. Few countries laboured, in this respect, under
greater diflTieulties. Bisea}- which joins the Pyrennees, in this (juarter much less elevated
than to\yards their centre and eastern range, seems to be an extensive continuation of these
mountains to the bordtrs of Castile. In tracing a road in this part there were consider-
able descents to diminish, and high summits to turn with address. Such ground re-
quired all the art which can be displayed in the construction of roads. The'^three pro-
vinces (Guipuscoa, Vizcaya, and Alava) of which Biscay is composed, joined their efforts
to accomplish this end, as is usual widi them wlien their common interest is in question.
This part of Spain, which forms a striking contmst with the rest of the peninsula, de-
serves a more minute detail.
Eacij of th<-se provinces has its partif alar government. In those of Biscay and Gui-
puscoa the orders of the monarch are not attended to before the administration has sanc-
tioned diem b}_ its exsecpiatur. They hold separately every year a general meeting, at
wiiich the administration renders an account of the maimer ot" its employing the public
money, Here the de|)uties assemble from all those coiamoualities u hicfi possess a right
ol delegation. These dej)uties are elected by the ayuntauiieiiLtos (municipal corporation)
who themselves are annually elected by the citizens; and, in order to be competent to
this distinction, the possession of property is requisite to a certain amount.
These elements of representative democracy, although destitute oi' ihat perfection
which certain modern publicists have imagined possible, caused a belief upon our inva-
sion of their cenmtry, and even during tiie negotiation of peace, that these proviuces
were adapted, as well by their principles as by thiii position, to become an integral part
of the French re|)ublic. It was an error. Tne Biseayans, h!)^^•ever jealous of their liberty
they may be, are yet attached to the domi.uor* o!'Sj;aiii ; and, i/ their pride cause them
to reject the yoke of a despotic monarch, policy <ng..._;es iuem to agiee very well with
tneir royal prouetor, 'J'li-.y possess besides a r'jjteiesoi arir,U)crati(;" pride, \v'hich could
but ill brook our principles of perfect eqe.ality. Enjoying ext.insi ,ely their real or ima-
ginary privileges, they would care very little" for that liberty which thev would have to
;■(),}. hmII:'.OANNE'S TR.Wl.t.S IN i;iAI>.
nartic-MUtc nith si:s.;u.cl.tmnty niillions of fcllnn-citi^cns. An iru-ovporaiion would
avc t n.ntc (1 thorn much Uss on the score oC Iukiucc. h. iha. ^rovuK c s t.x then -
' Ivcs r,\u lh,v their sc vc n,l pnrti.ul.r c xpc n, < s, a.ul all they pay the km^ .s a Iree g it.
(donativo) xvhiehis rarclv re,,uind of then., and uhieh, , .1 were (>tiy than moderate,
Ivould not be i;ra.,.cd. the states divide the sun. a.^reed to amon^ Iv. (hi le on eoni-
nionalities, aeeordinu; to U.eir separate assesMumts, wnielKire h-ec,ueM ly nu.dlhcd
In otlK resperts, natine ha. Jlone little lor the three pmv.uees ol B.seav ; and to tl s
circnmstanre il..^vin,^ in L-,reat nuasure, tluir love ofhlnrty, and the .ndclaUj^a hie m-
dustrv ^^hieh has ciip^endered the prosperity they i ujoy : tor in.less where par leularcu -
e n slnues umpcr the pcruieions inline nee ofa line elimate,the M.nredeh.,htlnl eountr.es
„rth( world are peopled ImU with ie.doknt Inini-s, uhose doe.le unnds arc prone to
'^' ThriMovinces of Bisrav and Gulpnscoa d.j not produce a sufTiciency of -rain That
of Alava rurr,islu s enonL;h not only to snpply Uk tv.;o odu rs, but a part <r I . . •••,
andNavanv in addition ; and in 1790 and in 1791, its crop 1;'-'>^'^''>^V': i' ". Iv
inhabitants of upwards r>f 60,0001. sterlin;.:. It ts true, a}2;ncnUure is ^'J'"';'' "^ !'" y
reliance: it is on Uus account, althotiKh of ^natest extent, the least P/n>;'i;^"s the
three pnainces, not having nu.re than 7 1 ,000 inhabitants. 1 he: Senor.o (du.s liu,caj
p..aK is called) has 116,000, and (iuipuscoa, within a space ot sixteen <^^ '^f^'^
nViles bv nitv in leni;th, comprises upwards r)f 120,00t). 1 l^c whole coast ol th s la tet
n V W is peoplecf wi^h iisbermen and sailors; the whole nUerior with P-^ceaWe htj.
ncrs. Unt I e reuinstaiuxs oecnrred to excite an annno.ity, ^vluch declared tsell_ tn
79', the iKople of (niipuseoa lived en tolerably IVi-ndly terms with the ncK^hbotinng
F en eh ; there subsisted even between th.cn;, and parf.cularl) bet^vce. the ports ol St
Sebastian and Ba^ onne, a conunerce, partly of an illicit description, but highly benelieKil
to e ach nation, and which, at the return of p. ;ice, was ca-e rlv reneweel.
Bilboais the- nu,st consieWraole town of all Biscay, although it contains no more than
13,000 or 14,000 inhabitants. Some, however, of its former mami actor.es have de--
clt , el Its t mneries, once se) productive, cease to be so, now that the ludes exported
fotn America cannot be imported directly to Bilboa, and are subjected to heavy d -
e when shipped at one of the ports <.f the peninsula for theirs. '1 he.r econom.e.al mill ,
•om which lev were used to derive' such material ad^anta.;e, are no le>nKer occupied.
t" ti.de. e>i Bilboa is now its principal re liance. This is ve rv consKlerable indeed tor
all kilids of merchandise are imported at and expedited from Bilboa. 1 here are ship-
ped, most of the wool which Spain exports, a ciuantity of iron, many l^^'^^^ " J.''^^'^^^'
he nrineipal produce of the soil of Biscay proper, in other respects ungratef .1 ; a.u^ it
is a} Bilboa that most e.f the articles are impe^rted Irom the various parts ol lAiroje.
for the supplv of die northern parts of Spain. Its principal commerce is Mth t^^^^^^
l4nce, iiir America. In the town there are two hundred mercantile firms, amo^,,
which arc some Irish, some (Ve rman, ar.d seven or eight l<rench. trc.tmeri
Strangers, who reside at Bilboa, have little reason to speak well of heir trcatmen •
Libertv, jealous and suspicious, exercises there a sort of de spotism, winch de'orms tie e
oualities if die government that are inte. esting to the philosophe r, I he Senorio ma 1-
lains with obst'inacv against the croun its incomplete and, m .i r>^t^ measure, clu-
Scri privileges ; -and, with great diilicnlty, admits to the enjoyment J tlie:m diosc who
aJc bori! oiit o^ their tei'ritoryr FormalitiJs the most tiresome must be submitted to by
» Within these seven veurs lUlboa has cxperienccel many chnn^.s W.r bus not ;'^^:" ;" '" i;;'^^';;;
diminished. In the nuan tin.c, a purl e.f then funds renKannu; vnen.nloved, ihey have laid lUcm
.}ui ••! buildiniT' '^vA the town hi's received mvch r inbellr.lnneut
rtOLfRGOANVK :; IK A V M. S IV .-.l-AfN,
.50^
\vo\ild
L thcni-
xc gift,
xlcratc,
\t coni-
d.
I toll lis
;il)lc in-
Lilar cir-
:)uiuncs
roiK- to
. Tluit
C. .-,
a .V. us
its only
s of thu
s liiscuv
eighteen
lii^ latter
able far-
itself in
ibounng
•ts of St.
jencilcial
lore than
have dc-
e>; ported
eavy du-
cal mills,
lecupied.
uleed, for
arc ship-
ehesnuts,
il ; and it
Europe.
Kni^land,
H, amo^*;;
treat mcr.i.
irnis those
jrio inain-
surc, chi-
those who
ilted to by
so iiijvirioui-
rcasc'tl lluiu
V. laid them
tbosc it feels disposed to receive ; and the French, in particular, up to the period of the
last rupture, wj re not tlu kast il' us( d. A foreij^ner at liill)ou is not allowed even to
hire a house in his own name, but is (jbIi_Li((l to borrow that of an inhabitant ; and, in
order to he treated like a stranger !)y tlu; IJiseayans, it is sufficient that you be not a
native, ^^'lu n a stra.iiger is disposed lo become naturali^ud in Biscay, even if he he a
Castiliin, he isobligi'd tojirove hi-) liliation, that is to say, to certilV thai he be not dc
seendcdeitlRT iVoni a Jew, a heretic, or from p:ucnts who ha\c earrird on any base pro-
fession, 'I'he pruorsre()uiretl for ihc nobles oi' Biscay are lo'ig. 'r«Ksatisf\- themselves,
commissaries are (Ksptitchcd, at the expence of the candidate, to his native place, who
examine his papers, and make iiii|nirics, and who have an interest in procrastinating theit
profital)le mission. Doubtless there are modes of avfiiding-, or, at least, shorti'uing thes(
formalitits-, but, whetlar owitig to the- predominaiu (. oj invy, ormalice, no partofihe
inconveniences, particularly lheex|Hiiee, is allL\iat(.d; and I know more than one
novice, who had undergone every form to the letter. It is not e\ery where that the
right of eitij^enship is i)urehastd e(iually dear.
Bilboa is situated near the sea, on the right bank of a river of no great length, !)ut
deep enough to receive merchant vessels oi gn at burthen. 'I'his port is not the onl)
one worthy of notice on the shores of Biscay: St. Sebastian and I'ass.ige deserve i)arti.
cular mention.
There is no road for carriages from Bayonne to IViiljoa, and travelling all along the
coast is very incommodious. But from Ihrnania, the lir-,t consideraljle i)oro -gli which
succeeds Irun, a very line road leads to Si. Sebastian, over a group of mountains, from
the summit of which a bird's-eye view of it is oijtaiiied. This little city is only joined
to the continent by a low and narrow tongue of land. Its port, if an artificial shelter,
formed by jettys capable of receiving twelve or fifiten vessels deservs that lume, is
commanded by an eminence, on whicii an old castle in ruins i^di.-,ceriied. Its smallncs.s
is very perceptible from the spiral ascent to the castle. The town is tolerablv well built,
and much bustle reigns throughout it. It is the ea^Vnal of Guipuscoa, and the residence
of the governor of the province.
from St. Sebastian to go to I'assage, a short league distant, you keep bv the sea, passing
over the mountains, into the bostnn of which a large gulf Drojeccs, ap'parently inclosed
On every side, and which, at first, more resem!)Ies an exti nsive lake in the middle of the
country, than a Iwy of the sea : it is the port ol' I'assage. Il must be crossed in order to
reach the town whose name it bears; ami, with much agrctable surprise, the traveller
here meets with a crowd of young Biscayan damsels, disputing in tlkir native ton_<>uc,
(unintelligible i ven to Spaniards) for the honour of guiding- the rudder over the Txiv'
) is about half a league vide. T'le town is built within the conliued space betuee'n
wluci
the foot of the mountain and the Bay ; it is ccjinmanded by a castle, v, hence on one side
you have a vitw of this vast liasin, and, on the other, of the sea.
Port I'assage, one of die largv.t harbours, and jx ih.ips the most safe of anv in Kurope,
ismatirial to the jnospui-.y ol B-sray ; and the sacrifice tlieitof, which it "is said the re
was once on our part an i-ateution ..iexading from the inhabilanls, aswell as St. Sebas-
tian, and I'onu raijia, another liitk port, iU the mouth of the Bidassoa, would liave been
much moregrK\oiis to Sj aiii, than it could have been advantageous to us. Here I
must remark, iliat giasj'ng an.tiiiion sometimes makes wrcjng calculatioiis ; whereas
cnnghtentd p.-li.\ l.,„ks ii.io tuMuity. 'i'l>.re a.re^ pos.,essions txtremelv v.iluable to a
neighbouring ,-,ta!e'. \\ liich, |(,r -.hc sake of nritual advai.tag. . are nuu"h better in ils
hands than die;, eoiiki lie i.ujurs ; disdnci f-oia i!./ir being by tlitir position, as proved
by miuy exan.pies, subject to mouKuiary su:;ji..-\.uoii ; se) that belonging to a neigh-
VOL. v. R jv
50C jioiM!(;n ANNr.'r. ri\\VEi. 3 in riPAiN.
hour of whom wo mav he (Usiroiis of mAu\^ :in ;i!ly, 1)\ U;i\inK tlinn in his hands
they iiflord an achhiiniui'l pUd^c \\>v his \vV\\:\ ; wh.r.as, 1a thvir eniir- siibjui^ation,
thev niiu:Iit hnnish an oljstacle to a siiu-iiv n coiu-iliaiion. (iihrahLir, cc'^d to the
Kufrlisli hy the tival\ of Utie< lit, is, jk rivqr,, (.Mrofthc safest '^marantres of ; he alfuncc
between I'rauce -.nd'Spain ; and l>y tradition we learn, thai this view ol the mutter did
not escape the penetration of iM. di' Tercy.
Ilappv Hiseavans, peaeeal)i\ then tnjov the three ports which arc the chief sonrces
of your prosperity ; and lit ns hope tiiatihe I'ruirh, ;ifrain heeonie your allies, will nut
re-occup\ them, except for their i.iouetioii ai^oinst tin eomnion euiiny.
It is impossible in travi 'i; .e through it to nw'id adniirin^^ the country which they have
animated ; work of those i ; u is without a niciuireh's assistance, who for thenilays
aside the title of kint; for th.u lord. Tlu se three ])ro\ inees are the as} lum ol' liberty
and industry. In crossini^ Bist.iv, wc percc ive that tlu ir presence has given animation
to every oljiect ; nothin<r'can be more delij^luful than the hills ; nothiii).; more chiertul
dian the cultivation of tile vallies. l"or thirty lea«ities, the distance between die Bidas-
soa and Vittora, not a quarter of an hour passes but tlu traveller discovers sornc village
or hamlet. The towns of N'illafranca, \'illareal and MoudraKon, have an air ol mdt-
pendcncc and plentv. >\'hat a diUlix nee in the aspect ol this eountry and tliat of the
neit^hbouring province ! I am far from wishing to throw ridicule on the C istilians,
whose virtties I esteem; but they are silent and nu lancholv as their itfiins; and bear in
dieir austere and sallow visages tJie marks of lassitude and poverty. Tlu- litseayans have
a different complexion, and quite another countenance and character. V-y.:, lively, and
hospitable ; they seem to enjoy their happiness, and wish tocomnumicatc ii to those who
come among them.
I shall long remember what happened to us at Villafranca. Arm ..iir du re early, on a
lovelv evening in autumn, w ilh anodicr traveller, we wandered on the oiitsidt. ol die town,
amusing ourselves with (observing the varieties ol ils cultivation. Sever.. 1 (i\' ii;.sol pea-
sants iiiditVerent parts of the orchards cngv.gcd our attuilion ; in turn ue excal theirs.
A monant of niutual curiositv caused us to approach each other. Wc boih spoke Spa-
nish with tolerable facilivy ; vve knew that it bore no resemblance to die language of the
Biscavans ; but v.e could not imagine tliat in a provhiee so long subjected to SiKiia, that
that of the sovereign should be utterly unknown : we v.vre obliged to have recourse to the
primitive language, and ga\e these good people lo understand that we wished to taste then-
fruit. They imniediately stro\ e w 1 'o shtjuld be the lirst to oblige; us ; our hands were soon
filled and we were strongiv seilicited lo fill our pockets also. Some of the peasants v\ent
to procure us fowl and fresh eggs ; we had great diili;:ulty in preventing them from being
offended at our refusal, and regretted that we had no other interpreter than our looks
and gestures. We were oblige el, at last, to leave diem; but as we had rambled without
directing our ste'j/slo anv particular place, and were unable, without a guide, to Inul tli.
way baedi lo our inn, oiir benefactors i)ercei\ed our embarrassment, and each was emu-
lous to become euir guide. Those w hose ser\ices were not iu:cepted, kept, lor a loi^.g
time, their ev es lixec'l upon us. Thev could not but easily discover that vye were sur-
prised at the'ir hospitalitv, and seemed somewhat hurt on the occasion. \\ e lelt dienx
some marks of our iickiiowledgment, which they recei\ed in such a manner as proved
to us the disinterestedness of the reception we ha'l met with. Wc seemed to (luit those
amiable natives of the south-sea islands, whom Messrs. Cook and Bougamvnle have
taught us to love, and yet we were not twenty leagues from Bayonne.
these Biscavans, who are so different from the Castilians, seem the subjects ota dil
fercnt government. Their province U considered, in many respects, as beyond tlw
rfnf'Ki.i.i \ N X I.
I H \v i.j.s I \- ^v \:v.
30
J<J4
ol" ihc
Spanisti frontiers. Kxttpt a ii u" n striotiuiis all morcli:in<lisf inUrs, ami i-, nrvcr cv-
ainimd ortaxtd Ixitat tlu. iimrifir limits. 'I'nc prnviiicc lia, oilirr privilc-^c ■. <.l uliiili
Ihc pi'opJi- :-i- \ii_v jt lions, but wliidi JKiw i\ <( ntlv h.di nvn tlii'ii nncr an.ickccl • lor
cxampk- tobacco and lore i;;n niiisiiiis lia\.- lucii ;,l)sc.luti Iv prohibited, so precarious u
bhssini: IS hlurtv iii i \iry country. Wvcrtlx l( ss the Hiscavaiis yet jircscrw nianv of
th( ir lorms. '\\ i jiavc Ik fore noticd ihii the impost uhich'iluv pav the kin<r l,,,s' the
title and characti r of a live i^\ii (tlonativo.) If the Kini; be in want of a certain numbn
of soldiers or saijr.rs, he notifus his wishes to tlie j.rovince, and the people find th.
most tasy means of I'lirnishin,^- their coniintrencv. The monarch csarts nolhin;>- with
an air ol uuthorit\ , he is almost ah\a_\ s ..bli-ed to treat with them. (Jii manv (KTasinns
has Hiscav set at uou-hr the orders of the conrt, and the supreme de( isions of the
conncil ol Castile, wlun ii has jud-ed lluin t<. be incompatible v. ith us aneicnt siatntes
It has beside a particular court ..f justice. In Mise iv Proper an apjxMl lies from the sea
tcnce of tile corri -idor to a nn-islrale called a ehiu jiistiee (j„ex mi\or) who is at ihr
same time the i^uardian of pri\ ikges. It is inic he is nominatul bv'the kinjj^, and can
look to his lavonr alone fir attainini.;- the mnn < mini nl stations to which he may asjiin .
The Hisca\ans maintain, wh.at th> y term tlu irliln rl\ , with an encr^M- uhi,;h" does ho
noiir to their character. In if, conduct touaixKllR in, the court appears to treat them
rather with e"c( m, than to Ijc apprehensive of aiiv insurrection. On the otlur hand
It must be allowed that, more skilful and betK r adipied for intri.^aie thaj\ what free men
are in truieral, they havt disco\uvd a method, and parlieularlv 'within the last centurv,
ol learnin.^ the u hole vahie due to the^e aj)iKaraiuHs, ha\ iiii^' ineessantlv in the army, ii'
the navy, m ditiercnt oifiees, and i\iii in administration, some of their comitrvmeii Vo-
defenders about the throne. Notwilhstandin- thi., tliev have oftentimes sliewn diem
selves worthy of liberty, and to it haw made more than one vJuable sacrifice. The\
have an aversion to customhouses, whieh ,,n \arious occasions, his been shewn to Iv
insurmountable. In 1778 the minister Pati-itro, beiuLr desirous of foreintr tlu in upoi^
them, nearly ori-inated a Kaneral rebellion. When, in 177.S, the trade with South Ame
nca was thrown open to sexeral ports of Spain, the liisca\ans, if th.ev had been willin;- to
admit ol custom-houses, mi-hi have participated in the advantaire with the rest ; biU in
the olhters of the customs they beheld so manv satellites of despotism, and their noble
mistrust rejected the inteiuk d fivour of the soverc iu-n. TIkv can make no commercial
expedition to America, without preparini<it in a neighbourin'g jiort, so diat the most in-
dustrious people of Spain, the most experienced in navijration, and the best situated for
such a commerce, sacrifice a jnirt of these advantaL,as t(j that of preservino-, at least, a rem-
nant ol liberty. Thus, before the war which jrave independence to IJritish America, all
the inhabitants of one of the pros inees vnv^.i'^^;\ themselves, bv an oath, not t.) eat lai'ub,
in ordir toincrcase the .growth of wool, with the inteiuioii of'renderin'r useless the tmi-'
milactures of the mother country.
In fact, the^ Biscayans have had from the be.uinnint; of the present ceiiturv an advaiu
tage overall Spaniards in American c<,mmcrce. The coinpan\ of Caraecas,' known also
by the name ol (Iminiseoa, had warehouses at Port Passai^e, and thence made their ship-
ments; nit this company, in the last war with Kn-land, was unfortunate, whieh has
induced govermneiit to relieve it from a burden, that, from circumstances, became
highly mconvcment, to release it from the chargeb of admini-uation, without excluding-
It Irom trading with the Caraecas. ^
liiseay is remarkable for its roads, cultivation, and urivikges, but more particularly
for the industry ol its inhabitants, which is chiellv exercised upon iron, the prineipid
production ot the province. In order to improve this maiuifucture, the liiscavuns have
R It 2
,,jH «f»i;n«;(>ANNP.'s travf.t.s \H ".PAfs.
,rr(Mir'>c in ioniK^ti corrcspoiukncc, inil)lic kcuirci and truviHing-. At IV-rf^ara tiitrc is
a patriotic s< Ix.o'l, wlu n intt;ilIurKV i^taus;!.! I)\ ilu nu..t .ihU' piofi-ssors; some ol whifli.
siirli as our iiii slimililc Pnnisl, liavi- Inru iiivifd IVom the ik ii^liljoiiniif; states. Stu
cUntsiiMlKUiisirv luNrlnvn Mtii to Sunk n and Curmany, wlurc they have acquuvd.
asuell in the bouvls ol'du tarih as in du shops of nvanidaeturers, sueh knouledire ;w
has already l)ecn prolilabk to tlu ir eountrx ; lor this word is notavain sound m Bi.eay^
Thr inlui)itants. s. paraUil l)V tin ir siaialion, lanjruajrc, and pnvile^as, and eonhntd
uidin. narrow limits, arc ( ailed I)V naUnv and j-olicy to (eel Uie spun of patriotism and
are olndient to the call. 'I'his nohk smtinuiii i.roduced the school ol Hi r^'ivra, where
die nohllitv ol die conntrv arc bron-'ht up at t!ic cxpence of die states, and those patriotic
V)cieti( s, v\ Inch have scr'\( (I for a mocK I to the numerous ones of this dcscnption spread
over all Spain within these twenty Ncais; and, not lonj^ a^^,,, die same patriotism h;us
jrivcii new em|)loyment to the industry «jf the Biscayans, by digi,ang the port ol Ueva, be
tuii'ii Si. S( baslian and liilljoi.
NVc liave i,^i\en a sketch of liiscay as amatc ur-, of liberty and pubhc economy. We
-.hall now proceed throU!;ii the province, simply as travellers.
CIIAPTr.ll II.
(OMIVCMIOS Ol T.MVKIS THKoec.H UISCAV. nVTMI.S UKSPKCTINr. VKTOIUA, P,\NCOK\U,
.U-H<..)S. (\SM, Ol lASlII.K. V.M.I.MX.I.II) llir, 1\V() (IIIKS '.K MKOINA. KXCVKSIOV
IMO nil. KlNC.l'OM (.1 LKUN. Ul.lAllO.S'. tMNtKUMNd SAIAMANCA, SKGOVIA, kC.
'I'lIK first town we come to after leavin,^- Iriin is M. riKini. It is surrounded by
monntains, wliich, in the space between them, contain a valky of rather cheerful appear
unce. A small ri\er fertilises it, the course (jf which is followed lor some time alter
leaving' llcrnani, and is met with a.^ntinat Tolosa; (the first place at which the travel-
lers bv the coaih sleep) ; it is afterwards lost siujht of until \()U reach Moiidragon. In
the course of this journev it is c. ssed several times over elej-ant antl substantial stone
bridi^es, a species of luxu'ry to whicii, in constructing highways, the Spaniards are much
addicted. ,. m • .1 n
At some leaunies from Tolosa, you pass through the small town oi Alcgria, the crac le
of several distinguished subjects;' among others, of the Mendi.^.abal, well known in the
navy, \illa rranca is die next town at which wc changed horses ; die lollowing one is
Vilia Heal, beyond wh.ich we had an immense steep hill to sunnoimt. At the loot ot
this mountain 'is Auijuela, whence a fresh change of horses takes one forward to Mon-
dragon. ,. . , . ,1 r
Two great leagues before you arrive there, the road divides into two branches, one ot
which Ic'ads to >iadrid, the other turns to the right and finishes at Durango, upon the roud
to Bilboa. Beyond Durango die road is impassable for earria;,-es ; so that to travel com-
modiously from Bayonne to Bilboa, it is re(]uisitc t(, ascend as high as Victoria: but
Ihercisa road whicli is tolerably good, that runs direct from Madrid to Billjoa, passing
through Ordumia, where the interior custom house for Biscay is established.
From Mondragon to Victoria is five great leagues. They are travelled over in less
than four hours, notwithstanding one has to pass the difliculi mountain ot Salinas, famous
for more than one accident. A parly in a coach, one of which x\as a Iriend of mine,
met with one some years ago, which merits a slight digression, on account ot its serving
to shew the manners of a class of the Spanish nation. There arc very few muleteers,
few carters, on setting out on their journey, few coachmen, who, on mounting their box..
B 0 U R r, 0 A N N E
. R A V I. L .> IN i P A I N .
:5or'
I tlurc is
>r which.
s. Stii
icquirid.
l(fli;;o ;vs
con lined
ism, and
a, where
patriotic
)ii spread
itisin Ikus
)cva, be-
IV. We
I .\ N c 0 It V y,.
XCLKSION
inidcd by
Lil appear
time ai'ter
Ik- travel-
tgon. In
uial stone
arc much
the cradle
wn ill the
ini:^ one is
he loot of
L to Mon-
ies, one of
\n the roud
■avel com-
:oria : but
)a, passing
vcr in less
as, famous
I of mine,
its serving
muleteers,
their box,.
.jniit making the sijjrn of the cross, mnmbliiiJi; a prayir, few but wliit c.iiiy some
relics or scapuhiiies. Willi this preliniin.ir\ , with this talisman, they coiisiiUr iIimu-
selves secure limn all mischance. The conductor of the carri;i!,re alhuKil to had nf)i
nei^'lected these wise precautions; yet were tltcy useless. In clinibini;' the mountain ol
S;ilinas, his niuli s iKjinikd his care, and dn w the carria;^v with them ()\ir the pieci
pici. He escaped with a few scratihis, and his passen,u;ers with some slii'-ht bruises.
The muleteer mij-ht have seen, in the sli}>htnessol his chastisement, a sit;nal evidence of
the protection of Providence, and its agents. Piul not so; while his passen^ars were
txtricaiinj,^ thiniselves, gathtrins!^ up their straii;L;hd property, and bemoanini; trillini;-
losses or damage, he, in a lit (jf passion, whicli iiad little of sanctity in it, teiu's away his
relics from under his clothes, and the scapularics with which he was loaded, renilstluni
in pieces, and, dashing them on the irrcnrnd, thuiuUrs out a litany of sonu what a new
descri])lion: " Al demonio Santa Barbara ; a los diables San Francisco ; al inlierud nues-
tra Senoraelel carmen," 8vC. &c. " To the devil with St. Barbara; to the con,u;re|.,Mtion
of hell with San Francisco; to hell with oin* Lady del carmen," gee. Lxc ; cursin,^- one
after another the inefliciency, or treason of all the saints of both sixes, to whicli he had
addressed his vows; t^ivinj^ them an cnert-itic ufjtici that they had irrecovcnil-'y lost all
his conlielence. Less than this would have been suilicientto console, and eveu enliven
his passenfj;ers.
Alter passmg the town of Salinas, \ on continue to ascend for sonu time, w hen, de-
scending again,\he mountains api)ear to decline sensibly, become more unfreciuent, and
are at greater distance from each other. Afier entirely clearing them, the traveller ar-
rives at V^itioria, ca|)itiil ol the province of .Vlava. It stands in the middle of a well cul-
tivated plait'-, abounding in villages; the town is ill built, and the streets badly paved;
it, however, exhibits the aj)pearance of activity and industry. Within these few years
a S(iuare has been built, each side of wliieh contains nineteen arcades. This edifice,
notwithstanding some defects, would be an (;rnament to a city more consi(kral)le than
that of Vittoria: the plan was given bv M. Olavide, a native of X'iltoria. There is a
pleasure in seeing a citizen thus dedicate his talents to the eniljellishnu nt of his native
country, in which they were cidtivaled.
Vittoria In ing die last town of Biscay towards Castile, the traveller is subject to for-
maliiicb, sometimes very rigid, but at all times tr(»uI;Lsoine. Kvery thing which enters
or leaves the jjrov ince is here miiuitely examined, suspected letters are here intercepted,
and those which are inxsterious are eleeyphered; comiers, ilio^e e\en which belong to
the court, are .sometimes elelained here, when their [)assports are abused for the iJinpose
of smuggling, jjarlicularly of coin, w liich of all olll ii'..es against the revenue is eleemed in
Spain the most unpardonaI)le. I had ne) right to cfjiuplain of my treatment in 1792:
notw ithslanding it was die period w hen the animosity ol Spain towards e\ er\- thing that
related to our Revolution began to e xiiibit itself in every sliape. O.i ilu: contrary, I had
great reason to speak well of ever\ one with whom i hul U) do. M. dAlava, a\!io
tilled the office ol governor, took upon himself t(j permit m\ enn-ano: int(j Castile, sim-
ply upon my shewing my i)asspe)ri, although a formal permission from court was then
necessary ibr going beyond Vittcjria. In conforn.ity to a recent law, the object of which
is to eiiconrage the building of carriages in Spain, a tax (jf ten per cent, on the value, as
ascertained bv an officer, is exacted on every carriage entering Spain, a certificate e)f
uhich is given to the traveller; which levy is hoaevcr returneel upon its repassing the
frontiers. Through the interferenee of a very obliging person in office, to whom I was
recommended, 1 was exeinpted from the exaction, lliis gcjuleman taking upon himseU'tc
become my i .:curity.
310
HDUnr.OANNR b IHAVI-IS TN STAIW.
Tlu'M" Wire not by many tlic only nor most pnc.ions di nioiistrations of kindiKr^s whicli
I riix ivid from tlii' ohlii^in^ inhabitants of N'iitori.i. Smiiu' nionilis afiirwarcls, my fa-
mily arri\inf; from the north olGLrmany rcsidtd ainonj; tlu-Mi, uliili.' wuitin^^ lur dirtc.
tions to pro( « rd to mv. Oni" of" ni} children was atiail.cd with a scrioiis illness. 'I'hcy
shand our sorrows with ns; they paid evtry possiI)k atfei\lion to the child, and ivery
trilxite ol' consolation to the inotlnr. 'i'hvir extreme hi nivf)leiice is stam|iid on our
lieartsin indilible characters. Kespeetabk Alava, son, to whom benelieence is so na-
tural, ac(u pt the homap;e of my fjjraiitude; shaie with him my heart lilt thanks, you
inistimable wonu ii, matrons, who so lri(|uentl\ Ik moaned jour ha\ inj;^ no other nuilium
to convey your cheeriui^ assnr.aiecs, than tliat ol a l.in^u;iii;i- unUnowii to the .)bjeet of
}our commiseration; and above all, \ou, Don .Vutonio, whose sensibility is not inferior
toyom* medii .liability, and who seenud to attend yo\tr own child while wa'jhinj^ over
the lualihorthat wi were threatened with losing. And \ou, reader, pardon these ctlu-
sions of a lallur's heart !
For those who value the quiet of the mind, the enjoyment of nature unadorned by
art, and the means oflixiuj^in plent\ with eheapiuss, Vittoria is not without its attrac-
tions. Its climate is tempi rate, ;ilthont,^h the mountains which skirt its horizon, parti-
ciilarlarly tow aids the norlli, r<. nder the w inter sew re. 'I'he plain w hieh surroimds it pro-
duces every reipii'^ite of lile, and partieidarly excellent fruits and vej^etables. The
amusement/), the luxuries of lari;-"- towns, an; hue vtry little kucnvn; l)utlure one may
relish those inn<jc(nt pleasurts, ilelieious enjoyments of the heart yit uninlectcd with
the refinements of civilization. At certain puiojis of the yiar, the iVstival of boys is
teiebr.ited, that of maidens, and that of married people; ceremonies iutircstinf; by
their simplieit} , w hich at once indicate the purity of their maimers, and insiu'c their
preservation.
Leavini; \'ittoria, on its riijfht is perceived the r"»cr Arriaz i, v.hieli is crossed over n
stone bridi^e. Afterwards you pass the villages of I'ublaand Arminon ; then ascending
u hill, about a league of high road presents itself, straight and of a sin^n rb appearance,
Ix'ing a raised causeway which leads to Miranda. Midway, on this ro:id, a marble co-
lumn rears its head, to denote the limits of the province of Alava and Castile ; a monu-
ment possibly more pompous than the subject recpiires.
Miranda, a small town, at fi\e leagues from Vittoria, is divided into two unequal
parts by the Ebnj. This stream, which formerly was the bounilary of the conquests of
Charlemagne towards the south, and as of ours in 1795, is one of those objects aggran-
dised b) the magic colours of histor) , which is foimd nuich inferior to its reputation.
It is true, at Miranda it is near its source, which is at the foot of the mountains of the
Asturias ; but the Kbro, which traverses the greater part of northern Spain, running
from north-west to soudi-cast, has, up to late times, remained almost wholly useless to
navigation. In the course of this work we shall notice what has been done towards ren-
dering it serviceable to the provinces it waters.
It is crossed at Miranda over a tolerably htmdsomc bridge. Fronting is seen a stony
hill, with u dilapidated castle on its summit, of no ornament to the arid scene. Shortly
after we discover the liigh rocks of Pancorvo, which have a most picturesiiueappcarancCj
and have already exercised the pencil of several travellers. At Mayago, two leagues
farther, we enter die narrow valley inclosed between these rocks, half a league beyond
the village whose name they bear. Shortly after, we meet with two other vallies, Santa
Maria del Cubo, and El Cubo, where the wretcludness and idlene^': -/f Castile are visible
in all their deformity. We then truvcrsc vast plains tolerably Wvsl cultivated as far as
noi/RGO AN'Mb.':; iiiiVEi.s IS r.r.\iN.
.311
Brihit.sc.i.a smnll town incload In- a v ■ I', wUu h iMsfuiir f.f;»tis phicid at (jjikiI (ll-itatu'cs.
The road ka\is it on tlu; ri'-lit. h\ 1777 and 179,1 lirihicsca won- a imlanclioh an.
pcaraiici , it was distitiiti' ol' m idiiiv, and worthy of Old Caslilf. In 17?'-iit posscssid
sonir f^ardi'iis and ore hards. 'I'his was not the only <;hiin(.^c for the belter which I re-
marked dnrin;^ jny si coiid j(/iiriuy to Spain.
'J'he road lioni Iriin t<> 11 il)iis(;a lias always bten excellent. It is ^etierally lined with
trees, whieh succeed hut ill, and a prolusion ol' stony limits. In parts it n>ay he eonsi-
dered scarcely wide euouj^h ; for, desirous olaxoidini^ the profuseness evident in the
highways ol' France, tluy have nearly |j;oik' itito the opposite extreme, notwithstanding
.Spain has less reason to leara waste of land than France.
From Brihitsca to Hurffos is six leaj^ues, wherj you travel over n coimtry the most
arid and naked oi any in Kurope : passing; throuj^h two of the most dirty and frifj^htful
villages in all Spaii., Monasterio andQuintuna; mar to which }ou cross a stone bridge,
which is rather cli },aiit. liurgos, the capital of Old Castile, is jileasantly situated on the
right bank of the Arlancon, at the foot of a hill, on the top of which are seen the ruins of
an old castle. This town was formerly opulent, industrious, and conimercial ; it now
presents the image of |)overiy, idleness, and dejioiiulation. It cfjutains no more than
10,000 inhabitants. lis t)nl\ business consists in the transport of wool to the northern
coast for shipment. Its rn.inufaclures scarcely deserve mentioning, if that of leather be
excepted, uhieli is of no more than twenty years standing. It proves more than any
other city in Spain, that the luxury ol churches abscjrb and keep stagnant wealth suffi.
cient to vivify entire cantons. The magnificence of its eathulral offers a shocking con-
trast to the sorry buildings which surrround it. This imposing and well preserved edi-
fice is a master I 'ieee of elegance in the (iothic taste. One of the chapels contains a
picture by Mi( h:.el Angelo, representing the Virgin dressing ilie inlaut Jesus, who is
standing upon a table. The noble air whieh he gave to his ligures is very observable
in Uiese, as is also the strength and correctness of design, to which he frequently sacri-
ficed grace.
Tiie cathedral is almost opposite one of the three bridges over the Arlancon. On
the other side of the same bridge is a suburb, where a miraculous image, know by the
name of Santo C'hrisro, is U) !)e seen ; whieh is much better known, ann attracts more
notice than the pieiure of AhclKiel Ar.gelo. It is kejn in a dark chapel, perfumed with
incense, and full of ex veto's and silver lamps, and into which persons are introduced in
u manner so mysterious, as to have something awful in it, even to those who are no
way inclined to superstition. The crucifix is concealed behind three curtains, that are
drawn one after ajioiher with a studied slowness, which adds to the religions solemnity.
Simple people believe that its beard grows. Devotees attribute to it many miracles, but
im])arlial eyes can discover in it nothing extraordinary.
Burgos is the birth-place of two famous captains, known even out of Spain ; Fernando
Gonziilcsand the Cid Campeador. In the time of Charles V, a triumjjhal arch of some
taste was erected in memory of the former; and, latterly, Burgos has paid a similar tri-
bute to the Cid, in erecting a monument on the spot w here his house is supposed to have
stood. The justice is di to the Spaniards to acknowledge that they reverence the re-
membrance of their heroes, and speak of theni with ihe same delighi as ruined persons
of their former opulence ; or rather let me say, with chat natitjnal pride which evinces
that, if their predilection for the noble aiid grand be lulled for a term of too long du-
ration, it is not extinct, i d only awaits opportunities to call it into action.
The new square at Burgos, consisting of uniform, but small and mean houses, deserves
tice upon no other account, than its having in its centre a statue of Charles III, in
notice
la
3 Id
BOUROOANNK's TRWF.t.J IN 3PAIM.
hroiizi'. Ii is a had likeness, aiul ill executed. It is remarked merely for in-iiifr almnsl
ihc only monument ol this description in Spain. 'I'lu- Spaniards, houLv^r nni< h de-
voted in j^'cmral to their sovereifjn.s, have luen less prodigal than any oilur people of
thesi' trihntesoi' adidation.
ir the interior of Hiirgos presents little hut what awakens j^loomy recollections, its
environs are yet emhellished and lirliji/ed hy the lonrse of the Arlaneon. This river
waters verdant meads, has three elef^ant htr)nc hridjjfcs over it, within tin space ol halfa
lea^^ue, ai\d hathis the walls ul' two renuirkaljle ediliees !>ituated helow tin town; the
one, the nionastery of Las Iluclyas, a convent of wonun, tjjeahhess of which possesses
considuahle privile^^'cs, and a jurisdiction Ijordcrnifij on sovereignty ; the other, the
king's Hospital, fanjous for itsextrenu- cleanliness and s.ihi!)rity. The Sijaniards nught
give lessons to the bcbl polisheil nations on these monnnients of charity. No heart dead-
ening foresight as yet has made thent appnhensive, lest the unhappy should lind them-
selves so much at ease in thisasyluuj, as to set its doors open to receive diem wjtluiut
regret.
Near Burgos is still another huiiding which merits the attention of the traveller: it is
the chartreuse ol' Mirallores, where are the tonihs ol John II, and his wife, magnificent,
at least in their materials, and the colouring ol the paimings which adorn thent.
Hurgf)shas a suMiciiiit lunnlKr of ti».cs in its neighbourhood for the ornament of its
avenues and walks, although throughout the country, <vhich is the coldest in Spain, there
is a great scarcity of wood ; a w tnt hit through almost all the interior of the kingdom.
In lyrKj it hegan to excite the attention of govenunent. An order of the council of
Castile, the eMCUtion of w hich was entrusted U) men of little intelligence, enjoined every
inhabitant to |)laiU five treis, and penal laws seemed to ensure itseiVect, hut the govern-
ment was deceived. In somi pLuis malevolence, in many, particularly in Old Castile,
the established opinion, that ireis attract birds to the destruction of grain, and, in several
others, bad management, contributed to render this measure inefficacious ; here, saplings
which Ingan to llourish, were cut down by passengers, atid there, such as were in an
apparently prosperous state, were tniiisplantcd from the spots whereUiey grew, toothers,
where for want (jf care tluy peiislucl ; almost every where the order was fruitless. At
length, toAvardsthe endof the riign of Charles III, recourse was had to the most efTec-
tivc means, those of example. The king, in the neighbourhood of Madrid, and at his
residences ; the Infant Clabriel, in Ins grand priory of Alalta ; several grandees in Spain ;
many rich indivitluals, in w hat are called their domains ; some patriotic societies, pre-
lates, and even rectors; all, animated with that public spirit which gives enjoyment by
anticipation of that wealth which, individually, few can look to enjoy, all these, rea-
soning like the old man of La Fontaine " our grand-children will here sit in the shade ;"
conjointly formed better concei\eil plantations, sheltered from the devastation of travel-
lers, as well as of animals ; and already some orchards, and copses, variegate the mo-
notony of the horizon, and enliven wiili verdure part of the naked and arid soil of La
Mancha and the two Casiiks.
The Arlaneon again presents itself to view on leaving Burgos, and is scarcely ever
lost sight of in any part oi the lOad to V'iiladrigo ; a miserable, although agreeably situ-
ated village, to the right of the rivir, at the bottom of a vast plain, on which arc some
paltry vineyards.
We next perceive the Pisucrga, another small river, which runs from north to south,
and the waters of which it was intended should be made to supply that canal of Castile,
projected and begun in the reign oi" Ferdinand IV, afterwards almost abandoned to the
injury of Old Castile, which has great occasion for such an opening for the sale and in
iiounco \nke'& r«AVF.f.r, ?« srAiN.
.iir.
almosl
K h de«
(tplc of
)tis, its
is river
.r half a
,n; the
assesses
itr, the
s mi^ht
rt (Uiid-
d ihim-
withoiit
.r : it is
iiiiicciit,
nt of its
ill, there
ingdom.
:)uucil of
cd every
povern-
, Castile,
n several
saplings
ere in an
to others,
ess. At
ost effec-
md at his
n Spain ;
ties, pre-
sent by
lesc, rca-
shade ;"
of iravel-
thc mo-
oil of La
cely ever
ibly situ-
arc some
to south,
f Castile,
Ued to the
e and in-
ercasc of its produetions. The can;'.! was to Ik j^iti at Si govia, and, following the course
of the Kresuia, uhieh falls into tlu Duero, aseend again as far north as UcynoM, re
ccive from the little rivers, in its pass.ige, the tribute of their w.itirs. Rtynosa is but
twenty kagiiis Ironi S.iiiit .\ntler, aseaport. A ro.id, but which will be ruined befori
the canal u liifislied, h.ts been made to liuilitatc a eon\mtmicatir)n by land witii Old Can*
tile. In 17'.>2 the suburb road whiih I had travelled along all the way from Irnn, ended
at I'',st|)a ; siiit e then it has been eoutiiiuid some leagues beyond N'alladolid.
Continuing our way along tin* banks of the Pisuerga, and after Iviving parsed two
steep hills, the feet ol' u hich are washed by the rivt r, we arrive at Quintana de la Puentc,
near to a bridge of eighietn arches, and T«)n|uenuida, one of the most dirty and wretched
towns in S|>ain. The I'isiu rga is again crossed hire o\er a bridge of twenty-six very solid
arches, and which has lately been ahnost wholly rebuilt. AlUrwards we arrive at thi
village of Magor;^, where the Arlauza joins the .\rlancon. A little farther, near Du-
ennas, these two rivers unite with the Pisuerga, and run by \'alIadolid lieforc they fall
into the Douro, or Duero. Were it not for the eoinsi of the Pisuerga, the banks of which
arc extremely pleasant, and embellished at small distances by groups of trees, nothing
can be more dull and less varied than the road from N'alladrigo to Duenna. Before
we arrive at the latter town, which stands upon rather a steei) liill, by the side of the
Pisuerga, wcsee on the left a great monastery of Ikntdiciine.s, called St. Isidro, front
inganevvroad, begun in 1784, by the governor of Paleneia, which is one of die best in
Europe.
This road, undertaken at a time when the projei t of rendering passable the great road
leading to France wasr- wly conceived, wasconstriu tulat the expenceof theeireumja-
cent communes, and may serve asu model for other nations to copy. It proves that an
intendant may, in some circumstances, Ije good lor s(/melhiug, as Mr. Turgot heretofore
proved in Limousin. I shall further observe, that it may tend to shew diat, in every
district, an administrator acting by himself, severely attentive to his duty, responsible in
himself, and long in oflice, is better able than any union of transitory administrators,
however well chosen, to infuse into plans of a certain extent, that connexion, activity,
and emulation, which are necessary to ensure success ; as well as that economy, which
admits of the multiplication of useful undertakings.
Paleneia is indebted to the attention of the inlend.int of its province, seconded by
the chapter of the bishopric, for other ornaments and improvements. Situated in the
centre of a canton renowned lor its fertility (the Tierra de Campos) it has, like many
others, fallen olT from its ancient splendour, and is no lotiger famous, except for the
fihhincss of its streets, the magnificence of its cathedral, and its manufactories of
blankets, bays, and light stuffs, which arc in great demand.
Duennas, which is only two leagues from Paleneia, alihungh agreeably situated, ranks
yet amongst the saddest and dirtiest towns on this road. Some } ears back it possessed an
inn, which travellers took pleasure in noticing as an exeepii.iu. That which the
coach stops at, on the contrary, is one of the most incununodious in Spain. Duennas
has, however, some manufactories ; among others, one of leathern bottles, which arc
the only vessels used for holding wine in this country.
After leaving the hills of Duennas the whole country, as far as \'alladolid, h
perfectly Hat and naked. Immediately after leaving Cabezou and its great stone bridge,
the steeples of that city are percc.vtd. On this side, the entiance into Valladohd is
pleasant, Ixing through an avenue of trees, which has adjoining alleys serving as public
ualks.
VOL. v. s s
.>l'i
JinWHrjO.t MN I 'b inWfLS IV Ul'AIX.
Ill 1777, uhtn I fir«»t Ixli'M tlii.M y, I ^^.i^ ^l;'t( k<il l)_\ tlir uatil ol t li;inlin<ss cmtv
\vli< a- tliMtiiilbli', and \\liirluli'.;;H' ; I i.r<i-v of tlic si iims ilian «)iir ; t ij;ln u.iis altd
I |iin'<i\t(l an altcriiioi) iWr tlu- li^ i> , ml, i.i 17!>i, I r'xiiul N'all I'lolid' not only
nun li I' •»>» iliilv , linl j^iVmIIv ini;<n)\.M. .\';M.al)!i' i»l ml I'ioiiH had lirn t staMKIiitl a
littk' pnvioii', n\ti\\\r ilu' Iiaiiks oi' tin- I'lMur^a, iiiiil on tlii' ('ain|)(» Clraiuk-, a S(|iiarr
Niiuatid at one ol' the tMi\uii'.i,«> ol the city, nni.irkahlc for its inuncnsv extent and its
thirt( en ( hni-( hen.
It hasanoihrr s'|iii!V nuK h more rei^idar thin ihin, \vit!» (line riny^i's of halconies, in
whiihit is assiited twenty ihoiisanil |>i.isniis nii^lu he siate(h I liid an opportunity ot
jud^;in^:or its rapai iiy on my liisi jonrmy into Spain, when I chanced to arrive at Valla-
ilolid at the preeise time ol a hull iij^ht, an exhihiiion which liappi lis hut once in three
years. Ilow roriiinate would thishaxe hull lor an amatmr; lor my part, I was none,
and the hi;^ht tlid not make me one. I Was iK\irilKle>s slru'k \>\ llie concotn'se ol
ciiriuns |)eopU' that the sliiw atlraded Irom all (piarters lor s(Mral leagues around.
The famous Toneador IVpthillo, whom, since that tinf, 1 ha\( liccpu ntly sei n, had
heen sent lor on the occasion Irom .Madrid, lie ptisentid s( \eral hulls which he I d slain
to the ambassador that I accompanied, a custom };ener.illy lijjlowtd where dist' 'shed
persons happin to he spectators ; and each of these blo<jdy lril)ntes wa» a s, bra
handlul of ^'old thrown Irom the ho\ tA' the correi;id(>r, wIk re we were seatid, on the
lloor ol' llie the.. lire ol" the exphjits (»!' IVpehillo. lie certainly did not rifpiire such a
stimulus, hut 1 nexer hihild him more skillul nor more lortunate than on tiiis occasion,
livery tiling in this speelacji, which was a three hours dur.uifjii, was new tons; the
scene ilseir, thetriatnunl wi ridived, the manners, the dress, and the I ni}^uaf;c. At the
end ol' this rill*. rtaiiniKiit, the hox ol' ihf eorrciiidor was transrurnucl aito a refectorv.
We saw )L,^iasses(^r water haiuliil round, cjiucolate, candies of e\ cry shape, and e\ery co-
lour; aiul kiuw not hou tonluse the ul»lij:,iiiLi' imi)ortunities with wiiich we wire l)e-
siif^id. (lestiiris wiic the (Jiily iNiiressioii ol' our tU tliniii;^ them, and ol' returning
thanks, .\ltir tliis who shall say let a man know French and he may traverse I'^urope.
How ever Irom thisexposiu'c we i'ormed an hiylt opinion oi" the alV.ibihty ol" the Spaniards,
and tluir taste lor sweetmeats.
'I'he churches ol' N'alladolid, those especially of the Dominicans of Sin IJcnito,
arc elej^Miit, accordiuii; to the Spanish taste, that ii. spacious and full ••'' altars richly de-
•{orated aiul f;ili. The) mcreover conuiin some tombs ol' white marble, admirably
sculpturid. TIk sculpliiies, as well in cr>loinvd wood as in marble, in detached groii])s,
or has relief, may be iracid back to ihc re\i\al of the arts in Spain ; an cpcjcha which
produced Juande Juiii, llenuj;uele, Ikcerra, and (jihers, who ihoni^h little known out
wf the peninsula would yit do honour to m;jie e nl!;j,hteiK(l a;jes.
The new cathedral iA X'alhidolid is lepivseiited by I'abbe Pons as a fine buildini;". I
saw in it an enormous mass of dark-coloured stone pilasters round the nave of the
Doric onler, and a hij;h wall which forms the back of the choir, and prevents those who
cuter from vlewiii!,^ the rest of the thurch. The abbe I'ljiis, who iraxelled as an ama-
teur of the arts, he'piently la\ished praise, and crilicism, on objects wordiy neither of
Uic one, nor the odier.
Valladolitl is cue of the most considerable cities in Spain : it is the residence of a
bishop, the seal of an university, of a patriotic society, of one of the seven grand
colleges of the kingdom, and of one of the supreme tribunals called the chancery.
Notw'jthstaiuliug all this it scarcely contains twenty thousand inhabitants, while in the
time of Charles \', it had a hundred and twenty thousand. At that time it furnished
JtOUncOANNK 9 litAVfct.S IN »IMIV.
•J15
u
ss c\cTy
lis wiu I
ot only
isliid a
;i si|iiiirc
mill its
)ii"ns, ill
iuit\ ot
Valla.
ill three
iH none,
)ursc- of
iiroiiml.
.'(II, had
t -1 slain
sIkcI
or a
, (jii the
V such a
Hicasion.
us ; tlic
.'. At the
ifictory.
Lmt} CO-
wtrc Ijc-
rrtiiriiiiifj
1m I rope.
i)aniards,
1 Hoiiito,
iohly (k-
(linirahly
1 f^roiips,
hi which
luvMi out
ildini;-. I
\c ol' the
hose who
i all aiua-
iicither of
•I ICC of a
en grand
chancery,
ile in the
furnished
uU the neccsHancs of lifi ; and was a Iiii».triti!*;rny, uti!ia ^'reat trade ; l>:\l iiulolcnrc, and
the ^'rcat iiu'iiase of priists and monks hoc aiicihilalid ahnosl all is a(lv..nta>;es. Thr
ctjurl which soimtinus resiihd iluiv, riinovin|if in the rei^;n of Piiilip HT, ") Mulrid,
drew aloiif; uith it most of tin opiiUnt lamilics; and at pnsent, nodnii)^ is mui but
cniptj liMosts erumlilin;; into dust on cviry side. Nor aiii^ht of its aiu;ic»vt spi* ndoiir,
but a j)r< !rnj;ious nnn.lnr of sacnd Itiiildinj^s. Without its walls, is a javIkI w.isU ,
notuithsiaiidiii'.'' the fccnnditv of a territory lit for evirv sort of culture, and abonndiiie
wi'h water; widiin, an ecpiil di fu i« lu y of industry ; its only maiiufacinrcs which were
u prospect of success, are 11^11' stall's, and coarse cambiit'. Its j;ol(l aiul silvi rsmilhf.
wue lurnurlv celibratul, iiid disuvidly so; thire are still as n»any in one of the bts'
peopled (iiiartirs of the town, but, at presint, diiy are not the most iii'^nnious.
liidi\iduals ha\e endeavoured for some wars b;.(>w to \.\\^v X'alladoiid lioin its staK
oi insiffiiificaiice. A school for thaw inK h is Imn eslalilisliKlthirc, ami an acadt niy,ai
which mailKinatics are tau};ht ; under the diitctions of the police, many cpiarters of the
town have received improvement, and it* nei^hlionrhood, b\ lu walUys and pl.intaiions
of irAill* rry tries ; and t\.') ' affiles off, a supirb highroad tonartls Slidrid, and eight
leagucfe to Valencia ha\e bn n complctid, across a country silh pt rlietly bare of tries ;
fur the scarcity of wood, which caused I'hilip 111, u> ipiit Willadohd, has continued
since his time to increase.
In the convent of l''nen^andalj;ne,a (j;ood lc.i;.';',ii from tliiseii)', die amateur of the fine
arts meets with three paintiii|^r>, d' Rdlims, eipial for tluir liislaiess of coloutinjj;' to his
best pieces. Set^Aantas, ;,hich continues to \)c the chief denot of the ;'.rchives of the
monarchy, is Iju* two |ca|^nes from Valiadolid.
Madder is cultivated with success in a jiart of the nei;^!»bouihood, as well as in the
pro\ inces of Hurgos and Sej;ro\ ia, in the Astnri.is, Aiul.ilusia, Arra^^on, and Catalonia,
This plant, which ibra lonp; lime has been know n to agree with the climate of Spain, did
not awaken the attention oi government l>ilori 174'2. 'I'he cnliivation thereof, wliicli
has made perceptible progress, saves Sp-.'inan annual tribute, ■t\;.icl» she was bcl'oreac
customed to pay the Dutch, of l(),0<'i),0()() of lials. Spanish ;Mavlder is cheaper, and
better than any other, and foreigners begin to a|)preciate its value ; ev< n during the Ame-
rican war, the Knglish drew it Iron, the vicinity of Medina, and Cindatl Uodrigo,
tlirougl' the medium ol the rortuguesr sea-ports. 'l\ui new branch of industry is the
more valuable, from the great increase of the mannfacti«c of chintzes in diH'erent parts
of Spain : and, in order to encourage the cultivation of it, a duty of 15 rials per cent, is
imposed on foreign madder imported.
That part of Castile which is on the right, travelling from Rnrgos ;<) Segovia, u lost
coimtry to the modern tourist, who rarelj passes over it, yet contains two cities, which
deserve j)articular notice, were it only for the contrast which their piesent appearance
aflijrds with their former pi osperily.
Medina di Uio Seeo, formerly renowned for its manufactories, is reduced fr(^m a po-
pulation ot about thirty thousand to fonrtevn iiundied chimnies. To it, its lairs were a
source of sonaich opulence, that Spanish exaggir.ition surnamed it the Little Indies,
India Chica. There is no more than the ruins remaining of its strong castle, which Wiis
in vain besieged by Henry de Transiamure, in the war between him and the king Don
Pedro.
A more lively subject of regret is met with in another town of die same name, Medi-
na del Campo. Ihis city, ibrmerl\ the residence of several kings, the thentre of great
events, and die emporium of an extensive commerce, and peopled v\ith from fifty to
sixty thoiibund inliabitiuus, has now no more than a thousand chimnies. Its celebrated
s s 2
■iio
IHtUUi.UANNL'o fRAVELa I .V -JPAIN.
fiiirs, li^ trade in bills of exchange, its large sale of Segovian eloths, the beauty ol u^
edifices, the c'.'anliness of its streets, exist no i<jnger but in the annals of history. What
the ravage of etntiiries, joined to the havoc of those long and terrible wars which over,
turn whole empires, have scarcely been able to '.ifect on the ancient cities which were
any ways famous ; two centuries (-f in. gleet and bad admihiotration have operated on
iMedina del Camj/ ), and some other cities of Spain. Tiine, with respect to her, seems
to have hastened his course with tenfold rapidity ; and, from the depth of the sepulchre
wherein it is entomljed, its grandeur may be looked ujwn as contemporary with the
sp!end(nn- of Persepolis and J\ilm}ra. Singular example in modern Europe ! whut
subjeet lor rt fie'^tion does it not furnish for some of its peuiile ?
Alter ihechMrehes, on which opulent idlentss has alwa}s some funds to lavish, the most
handsome building of Medina del Campo is that of the slaughter-houses. Philip II,
whose extravagant undertakings so greatly contributed to the deterioration of Spain, has
left, at least in this town, a monun>ent of his benevolence.
'J'he two ei'.iesof Medina bring us near to the kingdom of Leon; of which we shall
just say a word before we resume the road to Segovia.
This part of Si)ain is one of the most arid and waste. Op the road from Palencia to
Leon, its capital, the canal of Campos is met with, begun under the administration of
Ensenada, and designed to enliven the commerce of Castile and Leon; but no more
than twelve leagues of it are yet completed; that is to say, six leagues in one part, and
as many in another. It was intended to end .v the Douro, running by Palencia and
Duennas, but was relinquished for a long time, afterwards resumed by the minister
Florida Blanca, and again abandoned lor schemes more vast, but possibly not more
useful. It is not by such a vacillating system, that the regeneration of an'empire can
be eftected.
Leon, a city pleasantly situated, and of importance up to the period of the union of
its crown to that of Castiie, contains no more than fifteen hundred chimnies, divjdstl
into thirteen parishe-,, with nine convents. Its neighbourhood is, notwithstanding,
tolerably fertile, and adorned with plantations. It has some manufactories of linen,
which are not constantly employed throughout the year, and ofwhich many have latterly
been given up.
Salamanca, the second city of the kingdom of Leon, deserves more particular men-
tion.
Desirous, from the reputation of this city, so much celebrated in the romances, and
scientific history of Spain, to gratily my curiosity in seeing it, I made a journey on pur-
pose during my first residence in Sjiain. Tiie court was then at St. Ildefonso, which is
twenty-seven great leagues from Salamanca.
Although the Spaniards, and even the abbe Pons, complain of the depopulation of
this part of Spain, it did not strike me in passing through it. For example, I noticed
that in the neighbourhood of Arevalo twehe villages were discernible from one spot.
The whole canton, notwithstanding it be arid and poor, is nevertheless i'ertiie and tole-
rably well cultivated ; the result of individual ncusessious not being so considerable as in
other parts of Spain
After passing Segovia, of whicii, as we proceed, we shall say something farther, I ar-
rived at Santa Maria de Nieva, a town of six hundred chimnies, which possesses the sin-
gular privilege of having a bull-feast every year, frequented by all the amateurs of the
sport in the neighbourhood.
From the eminence on which it is situated, a tolerably fine country is distinguished,
of a vast extent, without any running streams, without trees, verdure, or country-houses,
BOUli(;OANNL's IRAVELS IN SPAIN',
n;
and which only presents one uniform tiresome aspect, if immense corn-fields deserve that
appellation.
Alter pulsing a wood of fir-trees, the land is naked, and perfectly (lut. In spite of the
drought to which it is subject, it is very well cultivated, even up to the f^ates of Arivalo,
a town which formerly must have been a considcraI>lc city. Its massive sfate leads to a
bridf^e, whose solidity braves the violence (jf the floods, and seems to contend with time.
This double monument has been deemed worthy of one of those pompous inscriptions of
which the S])aniards arc by no means nij.j^ard. It informs the passcnj^er, that the com-
mujies for thirty leaj^ucs around contril)uted to the building of it. VVithin the walls of
Arevalo one sees with disgust the remains of ancient columns, on which arc constructed
miserable huts and balconies, of wood half rotten. The clergy alone preserve their
wealth in the midst of the wretchedness about them.
Beyond Arevalo, as far as Ptnaranda, nothing is seen but rich and well cultivated land.
Its inhabitants, notwithstanding, display every symjjtom of indigence. Content, like the
greater part of the inhaljitants of the interior of Spain, with the enjoyment of tlie absolute
necessaries of life, they pay no regard to its comforts. Cut ofFfrom communication with
strangers, and a comparison of their modej^ with better, they seem to be destitute of either
a desire for, or knowledge of, the pleasures of life. It never occurs to the individual,
that he may improve his possessions. A garden, nay, even a kitchen-garden, is an ob-
ject cf luxury that their parsimony denies them. Idleness enforces privations, and the
habitude of accommodaiing themselves to privations nourishes idleness. In this circle
will they revolve till su -.h time as roads, canals, and moj c easy modes of transport, shall
demonstrate to them the avlvantagcs of commerce. Travellers, who j udge of Spain from
patterns such as this, are excusable in treating it with rigour.
One becomes somewhat reconciled with this canton on entering Penaranda, a pretty
little town of about a thousand chimnics. It contains many architectural remains',
which shew it to have been formerly a place of greater consideration.
Its inhabitants have a strong reliance on a miraculous image of the Virgin. Without
its patronage, say they, " twenty times should we have sunk under our misfortunes."
Sweet illusions, which modern philosophy has the cruelty of ridiculing, and which, on
the contrary, it inight be well to encourage for the comfort of the poor, where the con-
stituted autliorities possess the power of preventing the abuses of superstition ! Certainly
they are perfectly innocent ; such illusions are even valuable, were nothing else the fruit
of them, but nourishing p;itienc(- and hoi)e in the bosom of the wretched. The inhabi-
tantsof Penaranda, in common with most of the provinces of Spain, appeared to me to
be in need of these resources. Loaded with taxes, they earn most hardly the litUe
which they gain, so that their misery stifles their industry. ' Their lords, who frequently
are ignorant even of the geographical position of thtir estates, abandon the administration
of them to iniendants, trc.isurers, and alcaldas, who draw down muUdictions on names,
which might be reverenced upon closer knowledge of the jn rsons \vho bear them,
1 shall not quit Penaranda without observing th;it its inn is, perhaps, the most com-
modious, and the cleanliest of any in Spain. A matter imusual in this country too, I
found the landlord complaisant, and some eatables in the house.
I afterwards traversed a district in which, I was assured there were droves of cows,
whose male calves wtre without horns; this then appeared to me an idle tale; I give,
however, more credit to it now that I understand Doctor Johnson, in his return from his
journey to the Hebrides, found, at Auchinleck in Scotland, some cattle without horns;
iind that, in Norway, whole races of bulls arc met mih of this description, between
Christiana and Frederickshall. When I understood that such were met with in Enghuidj
il8
JJOLMU;i»AN .VE's inAVLI. 3 IN flFAIN.
tiiul, after sccinp; 111 a country house nt Altonaa Ixill oftliis description entirely without
horns, and not a|)ixirently deseendiuf^ from ;my (kj^i'eiKriitc east, as some tr.i\elIcrN, who
have met with such beasts, have ima}i;ini{l; 1 was led to cfjuceivc, that tliis sintruLirit)
was not uncommon ;)monji;the aneients ; and difl not eonsefjuently appear incredible to
fhcni, since Tacitus, speakinsi; of the (urmaii:;, si'vs, ncarmcniis cjuidem Ikjuos ant gloria
froiitis; "their bulls have no hoi; .urs but a hornless l)row.*
Whether these animals without horns exist or not in the district of IVnarmda, I
learned thiit Mie labourers at least, had some means of acquirini^ a competency ; that
the i^Katest part »)!" the Kinds were held l)y tin m undir the simple condilion (jf rendering
to the proprietor about a fourth part of the crop, themsehe.'i bearini!^ the whole expenec
of the cidtuie, i;:itheriu^;, Jkc. It is consolatory to fnid this class of men, so valuable in
themselves, sometimes reap advantaiije, if not from the disinterestedness, at least, from
the heedlessneba of proprietors ; but these examples are as imfretjuenl in Spain as else-
where.
Trom IVnaranda, after passinij^ by \''entosa, a miserable villai^e on an eminence, I ar-
rived at Iluerta, where I, Ibr the iirsttime, remarked a eustoni, in some particulars, wor-
thy of imitation. It was in luivinp^ a board iixed at the door of the inn, u hereon was
described In- the alcalde, the manner in which the hostess should behave to travellers,
the price to be ehartijed for lodi^msj;-, the tood of their horses or mules, &c. Thus far
all was reasonable, but the foresi^lii of the prescription went farther; it forbid the hos-
less keeping pigs and poultry, and sufiering play at cert.iin games in her house, receiv-
ing armed men, or women of light conduct.
it is 1)} similar incumbrances, by which much accommodation is lost, without serving
moralit}-, that Spain, for a long time, will feel the want of good inns, and remain a dread
to foreigners.
On leaving Iluerta, the towers of Salamanca are distinctly seen, and not lost sight of
afterwards. At a certain distance, the position of the city on the banks of the Tormo is
very picturestjue; and, were the country somewhat more adorned, would put one in
inind of Tours. Half way towards it, I passed through one o4" the vast pastures, called
Valdios, not very frequent in Spain, but which are destitute of that beautiful verdure
w hieh is the finest ornament of country scenery. A great drove of cattle (all with horns)
were there feeding in this meadow. 1 was now in one of the districts which supply the
amphitheatres of Aladrid ami V'alladolid. After having fre(|uently witnessed their bloody
combats, it was not without emotion, that I beheld myself surrounded by these fearful
animals ; but they ranged in freedom ; no one j)rovoked them ; they had laid aside their
ferocity. Nature has formed ver} few animals inst...v;tively malevolent. Some become
so, when dictated to by hunger or self-defence*. J^o men always wait for these power-
ful provocations before they manifest the rage of the irritated bull, or the fury of the
hungry tiger ?
On entering Salamanca, one passes at first tiirough dirty, narrow, and ill-peopled
streets. It then wears the appearance of the most wreielied city in Eurojic ; and \ve
readily credit its population formerly so numerous, being reduced to two thousand eight
hundred houses ; but view with surprise, on advancing, its new square, eejuaily remark-
able for its cleanliness, and the regularity of its areinteetuve. It is adorned by three
rows of balconies, which are continued uiiinterruptedl}' ; its ground-tloor is formed of
* In the spiintr of 1800, iieiir AUonu, I again men, not with the same bull which I had seen sonic
years before, but several of his dcsceiuiaiUs, whicli had horns nolwithsliUidin;jf his bcintj destitute of
them himself; u phcnonK'non perhaps not uncommon,
noURf^OAKN I.
1 K \ V hl.'^ IN ulAIM.
JIJ;
fiiiuty arches, within tliciirchcs :iit pluid the liknusst^ of the most ilhislnous pcisons
Sp;iii'i ciiii l)(\'-,t. Oi> one suir r.i srcn, thnu ol' :ill ilu kiii.^rs of C'.i.stil( , to thi- time
ol Charlis I!!, in tin.- other tltov of ;ill ihc Iks' known Spanish lurors, sniii as Btr
nard rkl C.irpio, (ionz'iUo (.\v Cordov:!, and I'Vrnaiidcs Cortex,. T!k; arches of the
casKrn side an • yet ctupty, liow soon will tlu'v l)i (iiltd ?
Tlic ( athidrai of Salaiuanca, ahhou!;li hnilt in llic lin-ir of Leon X, is badly ima-
pained; liowfver the striking; boldness of llie na\e, and the exac.luess widt which its
(jothic ornaments are linislufl, make it one of the most remarkable (iothic ediliees in
all Spain, \\hen i'nrther we learn thai S i! nnanea besides this cathedral has twenty-
seven parish chnrclus, twenty. live conxcnts ol men, and lonrteen of women, one is no
Ioniser astonished at its poverty and, want of inhabitants.
From an earlier period Jian that of the rei;^!! of Philip II, the fame of its univer-
sity attracted sindents, not only from all parts ol' Spain and I'ortu.^al, but even from
France, Italy, J''.nL,'land, and Spani-^h Anurica. The f^aat voj^ne in wiiieh it was, has
somewhat jrone by, aldionti,h from the new form it has received by thecoimcil ol' Cas-
tile, the uni\irsity of Sihimaiica p';..sesses at present sixty-one ehiirs, and a colle.uje for
the Hebrew, (ircek, and Latin tonc,aies ; and notwithstandiiii,,^ it has even now soim
skilful professors, who arc occupied in luinting in its last coverts the pretended philoso-
phy of Aribtolle.
Another establishment of more modern date than the university of S.ilamanca, and
at present more cekbrattd, is that of the grand cf)llei!;es, colesjfios mayores. In Spain
there arc seven places of education < I this name, four of which in Salamanca alone.
They are all of tht ni buildiiiL'-s w liich astonish by their stupendonsness ; the oldest
that t)f St. Hartolomeo has ' n recently rc-bnilt; and on accoiuu of its front and its
principal comt, claims the no . of architects : it contains a library rich in manuscripts,
and several learned men have been educated in it ; amoiii^ others Alphonso Tostado,
vhosc inune use erudition, and prodi^'ious fecundity, serve to this time for a proverb
among the Spaniards.^
Among the crowd of sacred edifices which Salamanca contains, the church of the
Dominicans, was pointed out to me as worthy ol elescrijitinn, that (•♦' San Marco, and
the front of the Augustins.
The lirsi has a Ciotliic front, worked with gre t nicety, a spacious nave and richly
decon.tidt chipels ; but I looked in vain for the line paintings I had heard so much
vaimled. The platform of the choir is paintetl by Palomino in Iresco. In his history
of Spanish painters, Palomino has given some lessons «■ . the line arts. According to
my conception, in his works at Salamanca, he does p appear to have joineel example
to i)rece pt.
Instead of master pieces of painting I was shown a magazine of relics. I was pathe-
tically invited to atlvance m} duplet, but this characteristic of .S|)anish Catholicism, I did
not happen to be i)ro\ ided with. I was however obliged lo jiay my tribute of respect,
in which 1 but imitated all the attendants, and to have refused which might have been
dangerous ; this consisted in kneeling before these \<Mieratvd o!)jccts.
To enumerate all the sacred treasures that were ex!;;L>ited to me would little entertain
the reader: 1 shall therefore only mention the bibic of the fcmious antipope, Bcne-
* When dchirous of rcprcsciiiing the number of works of any ;;iulhor,ilic Spaniards say, " Ilacscri-
to nuis quo eso Tostado." He has wrote more tliau tliat ol Tosuido.
t In Roman Catholic churches Uio places where the priests read mass arc called chapels, in large
churches there s; "c frequently several.
320
BOURC.OANN'E's TllAVliLri IN o I»A ! N .
diet XIII, who was born in Spain and deposed I )y the council of Constutuc. Take cure,
said my conductor (who was a friar) that you do not cunlouud him with a pope of the
same name who was a Dominican ; he was a true pope. Tlie Irony of Molierc will
thus suit all countries : You are a goldsnutli Mr. Josse.
In the portal of the Augustins, I saw nothing but the ornaments ,.ith uhieh it ivS
loaded, that were remarkable. It fronts a eabtle or palace of the t.ii kt. of Allia, a
part of whose domains is situated in the neighI)oinhood oi Salamanca, Tluse domains,
these palace", sadly feel the absence of their lords. This ri flection is exciied at every
stej) you tread in Spain. So long as opulent proprietors, cease to vivify by their presence
their too extensive inheritances, at least oceasion.illy, patriotic societies, mu:ui factories,
encouragements to agriculture, and a thousand other salutary plans, will be but useless
palliating to the evils, which for two centuries continue to undermine the Spanish mo-
narchy. This is not one of the smallest inconveniences arising from the despotism of an
individual. The monarch attracts about him, by his favours, all such as can add splen-
dour to the throne, or put it in danger by a distant exhil)ition of power and pomp.
Vanitv requires, that all should shine ihr its advantage, and by its means, and mistrust
is api)rilKnsivi! of the lustre that is distant. This was tiie system oi' Richelieu, and this
is the picture of all the kings ol Spain from the time of Charles V. They have con-
solitati d their authority at the exjienee of the prosperity of the state.
The rt maining church v\ hieh they boasted of, is the old college of the Jesuits given
to a community of regular canons, under the name of the church of Sun Marcos.
F.xeept a niagnificent portal ol the Corinthian order it exhibits nothing curious. The
old seminary of the Jesuits was consi crated, in 1778, to the education of thirty young
ecclesiastics. The ceremony of their nuroduetion is described in a picture bv Bayeux,
one of the most able scholars of Mengj.
Before I left Salamanca, 1 went lo see an old Roman bridge of twcnty-scven arxhes,
M hieh is at the end ol the town, over the little river Tormes.
Seven or eight leagues, ironi this cit) , and on the right bank of the Douro, is Za-
mora, which, notwhhstanding its being situated in the ancient kingdom of Leon, has,
for a long time back, been the seal of the military government of Old Castile; and is
not a nhii the richer for it.
L astly, from lilteen to eighteen leagues, S. W. of Salamanca, and not far from the
Douio, is a sort of arsenal, formerly in a flourishing state, and situated in a territory
fit for all sorts of culture, at present it is in a wretched state, without population, and
without industry. Roads almost impassable, from whichever aide you proceed towards
it, vestiges of ruined villages, and the worst inns in Spain, such are the attractions of
Ciudad Rodrigo, and its environs.
This, I conceive, will be deemed sufficient to say of the kingdom of Leon, in order
to prevent any one from undertuking .n excursion to it. Let us now again enter the
road Irom Burgos to Segov ia.
Olmedo is separated Irom Valladolid by eight leagues of sandy soil. In all this dis-
tance there is no other verdure to be seen iluiu that of a ehill lorest of pines, and heath.
Valciestillas is half wa\ , a town consisting of t\\ o hundred and fifty houses. I lodged
there in 1792, at a farmer's, wjiose pride ol birth would have furnished matter for an
excellent comedy. His nobility he told me was incontestible ; he produced the proofs
of It beiore me, in a sort of certificate, which his grandiathcr, removing from Biscay
into this district, had obtained Irom the chancery ol Valladolid ; for these tribunals, be-
sides other functions, have that of jiroiKJunciug on the validity of titles of nobility,
ftnd granting a consctiuent certilicate, which is called executoria, In each of them even
IIOL'nf.OANNK'i. jIt.WKLs IV SPAIN.
.121
lljcrc is ..n apartment in \\hicl» tlif princi|Kil hiisimss transacted i.s of tins niiturr, and
which apartments on this account arc called Salas dc hijos d'ali^o, (apartments df iht
sons ot homebody) words Irom which by corruption hidalgo "is dichiced, signilVin^;
noble. My illustrious innkeeper did not fail to inform nic that at \'aldestill.is tliere-'was
a score of inhabitants, asmuc!) hidalgos as liimself, but they had not such well autlu n-
ticated certificates. Notwithstanding ail this he was not above talking to mc ofthc re-
venues proceeding from the lands of his master, which as well as the whole district
pt-odnced abiuidancc of wines. A nobleman, and have another master besides the king '
Thus in Spain as well as in other countries, vanity easily reunites itself to meanness.
Such an event as I have described was necessary to'eugage mc to mention such a place
as Valdcstillas.
Oiinedo is seated upon an eminence, in the middle of a i)lain, whiejj appears almo.st
unbounded on every side, except to the north-east, iu which direction are seen sonu.
barren hills. This city, which was fornu,; strong is still parti) inclosed bv thick walls
three rpiartcrs of a league in extent. It luis very few inhabitants or manufactures, and
its whole internal appearance announces decay. I have no where been more struck
by symptoms of degradation and inisery. Seven parisb.es and as many conv:uts ; some
brick grounds and vineyards, and a few kitchen gardens under the ancient ,valls ; these
Constitute all the riches of Olmcdo.
From Olmedo you inay go cither to Madrid or Segovia, according as vou take the
right hand road or the left. If the former, after passiiijr through seven o'r eight mise-
rable villages, one arrives at San-Chirian, one of the stages c)f the diligeiu'e, and at
which in 1792 I found a tolerable inn. The road, w hieii e\en at that lime was very
bad to San-Chidrian, is afterwards most excellent as far as Madrid, that is to sav, for a
space of fifteen great leagues; but as far as Guadarama, it runs through one 'of the
wildest countries in Europe, along the thick curtain shaggv \\ ith rocks, which seijarates
Old Castile from the New. In this unpleasant journey, before vou ascend the most
steep part of these enormous mountains, \ ou nuii.e a halt at a new'inn, called VA Diver-
sorio de San Rafael. Beyond is the village of \'ellucastin, w here the barrenness of the
country increases, and rocks are more freepient. On the top of the moimtains the im-
mensc plains of New Castile are distinguishe;d ; shortly after succeeds a turni)ikc, where
travellers pay a toll for keeping the road in repair ; descending then a long slope \ou
reach Guadarama, where it finishes.
Madrid is but seven leagues from this place. The Ilscurial is in the road two leagues
distant. St. Ildefonso is seven leagues ofl', at the fo(jt of the mountains jubt passed, and
on their opposite side, and which project considerably with great sim.osities towards the
lelt. Nothing announces ti.at Guadarama is so near 'the capital, and the two residences
of the court. To behold the distance irom each other, and destiii-te state ol' the inns,
one would imagine Madrid could be frequented b\ none but pilgrims and muleteers!
But belore we enter tliat city for a long sta\ , we will return to resume the road to Se-
govia, w hich we swerved from at Oluiedo.
Segovia is eleven leagues from Olmedo. The cinnitry round this city is the most
barren, poor, and depopulated of all Castile. We pass ihVough some large towns, such
as Santa Maria de Nievi and Giusti, which we ha\e before noticed, and perceive the
turrets ot the castle of Segovia, and the steep.lc of the cathedral, at a considerable dis-
tance. 1 he traveller suffers much Irom im|)atienee belore he arrives at this city; he
has several circuits to make, with many painful and tedious ettorts before he has climb-
ed, as It were, up to the square of Segovia.
VOL. V, T T
1
. >.!
H O r I' /, .1 V N N r. *'j 1 I A • I . ■ I N - •' A I N .
As hf :ii)piT,.ir'Ius, he srcs to tliv ri-lil ;i!i nlil ' .i >:!■. . built upon tlic summit <.f a strep
i-Mck ; iiiul K. ihv Kf;, lir looks down on a x.illi \ wmHTkI In a linlc riw r Ironi which
It i-i < ' i^ > ^ Its \ Lrdiiiv. liilcnt on Uic line prospici!) by w Inch he is surrouncUd, lu \'nv.
i;. ts th. ,1, Mitnii- country he has journeyed over, and v.hich on Iciivin.-; Segovia lu will
nil 1 ! w nil a<;Min. ,..,..
'ri,iscit\ w as lormcrlv famous nn several accounts, and notwuhstandni};- itsdiriMu ss,
Mi(i il.e Mn;ill numl)er ol" its inhabitants, is still not unworthy the attention of the ira\U-
lit. It', principal ((lilic(s are the caliudral ;ind tile castle of Alcazar.
'llie ( atludral is a mixture of the C.othic and Moorish architecture. The insuk is
\.i\ sp;ici<,ii-, and of majestic simprwitv , and the [;\\::{ altar has been lately deeorat' d
widi i1k Imi St Circnadian marble. _
'riu Ak.i/.ar of Sci;-o\i;i, foinicrlv tlu residi lice of the Godiic kmi,^ is a will pre
suvid ediri.c. ( harks 111, establislu d in it a military school, for \oun}r gentlemen in-
l.iulid lor tlu irtilkrv, in which their echication is most carefully attended to. 1 liii
establisliiiu lit is uiidiV tla direction of the iiispi clor-gciieral of artillery.
The Aka/.ar was for a long lime made use of as a prison for die erews of the Barb;iiy
. (.rsairs who f. II into die hands of the Spaniards. It was impossible to see without com-
•lassion ihosr ir,l,ii-t moors, condemiudto a painful idleness, which was more nksomt.
!n ih. m than tlu ir *apii\l!\, and (k\ oling themselves to sedentary employments, lor
■vhich n;iti,i\ siemed not to have designed their indignant arms. They were, howcA^r,
•.u\er tie and with rigour, and the court of Spain has restored them to their c.omilry,
Muec ilu Spanish monarch has formed connexions with the emperor of Morocco.
Vtui iK.ihiiaj, is more n markable at Segov ia than the acjiuduct.
Si<>:i<M\ inbuilt upon t\\o hills, and the \alley by which they arc Sijiaratcd; a posi-
linn whidi niaikit \irv diilicull for a p.. it of the citix.uis to be supplied with \\;ii'.r.
riK dillieullx w.is!Uii'o\ula consiiluabie time back, aceording to llu' learned, ni tlu.
:\i'Mi of rnijaii. b> an .aiiu dnet, which until this day is caie of the most astonishing,
ni-.dtia lust pf.M.-\((l ol tlu lloman works. It begins on a level with die rivulet U
:crti\is and is ;U liisi snppoiiul \>\ a single line of arches direc Ret hig-h : n runs
tlun to I'h' snnimil of a hill on the ''>'\av side of die city, and appears to become nioiv
ckvatul in i.rop.ilion as thi' ground o\er which it iscxtended declines. At its high, si
part it has the ipiieanauu' of a bridge boldh thrown over an abyss. It has two biauelu s
ulTuh 1. iiu an ;.iK;le, somewhat obtu.'e. uk.tivc to d.e chy. It is ;U ihis angle th.it it
kc- onus !tall\ awful. Two rows cfar ■!" -rise majestically one al.:ue the olhu-, and
tlu sp(ct:.toi- i'-, stitu k widi aiiKi/Anin.r comparing dieir slender base with their l,ei|Ju
Its soiidity, w hi ' '
I. Icsely olis( r\ 'ih'.\
pl;,( c(
!l(.>t IlOW
i\,\id Kj v.; His (f sixiien ceuturie:,, seems inexplic:
tlu Mill!
ihle on
nil-, i/f i"s e(.n; truf.tion. It is composed of s(iuare stoiu.-,
(.lu upon
lu. Ill i;;I)l
I
iu;l., i\ wii!u)iiUU!\ exterior app'irav.nce of cenKiit, though weean-
\Uui!:>ri!av weic i\ ally uniud wilhout this aid, by being cut .lud
pkieid w it:i pt e>;l.a
all, (.r windier the eement has
ii. (. n
Ustro^cd b\ time. Oiu' si
I"-
Svitli niutiiie wi<te:.ul houses reared ag.insttlic pilkir. of die arc;aks, which v ek lu
thise {hi.-.!-le ruins a support fur their instability ; in return for diis great bene in, de
tiarni- a na,uunui:l wiueh c\e!i time has respected; but dicse scarcely rise to a llnid
;,r' il,e'"lurdn (.] the .(lut.luet, and serve at least to glv. an appearance oi a greater pr„-
iitfri u, iu.eiai.d ai.'.: .iwiul muss. A small ill-built convent has been erected behind
die an:d. u; Ji Uata die two bmnclies. But what nation has riot been guilty oi like
profana ions ' 1/ I those of nu ( (Hintrvmcn, W'hose indigna'.ion may be excited by
thi^, lenu U.I-" r thai it is but laiely that the amphitheatre at Nimes has been relieved
ffiiin a ^.iinii.U' outrage.
Infill St
1
1
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I'li
in '"■
I'"'
i
*-»— »f.ilfc-.*»— -^-
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» r» I ■ *
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4
A.
'■*»4'iw^-^>»>>W-*^-*Ka^.-<a>^y.^ » • A*-'
'..
It/ 1
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•4
.1 '*
-in.
■■; ■.■•■;■:. '^ '^
MUUn(.UAN.Vk'» IH'VVKLS IN SPAIN.
32:1
It is lurdlcsH to ohsrrvc that the lioiivs near wh'uU this hcncfi. cut nqmchirt passes,
lay it imtUr conirihulioii on pajiiij^a cirtain duty, aiul ihii il was of (h<- ^^^»al^.st iitllit)
to ihr houses, lornuily mm h mow mmurons than at prisrnt, in which the uools ol'
Segovia wx'TL' u;ishnl an<l(l\i(l. 'I'hvsc wools aa ihc n»osl laiu«)iisoriili,an(l will (ornj
the suhjcct oithf inllowin^ chapter.
CIIAl'TKK III.
'.1
'I
IIII-. wooiH oj. sr\iN. ATTr.Mi'iH ro % u rit \i.i7,t. hum in m^siv ni tmi.s MVHCK.n i«««»
IIIK MKhlA. KXI'OHI 0> Sl'XMSII MUltl, M \\ I I \ I I It ►. i Hf «. I \ l> \ I A X V U A \ M» M.t.'HM
IHAVll.H <)K IIU. SIIKI I'. Sill \lilM. AM) MVilllNfi.
Till'' hist wools ill Spiiiiarr thf»si' (ifthc districts of Sr}:fovia, those of tin- country of
Dii\tra}^o, sc\cnoru!<ht Icajniis c.ist orSci;o\ i.i, and iho'c oj' I'cdr.ix.a to th« north, and
strctchinj^ tow.irds iIk Domio. TIk; iiiicr<<)nrsc uhich I ha\c h.id as will \viih (Ik
people of the coinitry as with those of n»y conntrynn n, * who have rc.Mcd Spanish sheep
in France itself, for a period ol"\(ars, have eoiihlid n»r to collict det;iil((l a( tonnts rt-i-
pectinfj them, the most inttr«siiM!^ ol" which I nuist i)i;;- i'miisc from lij^lu readers for
inserting, as those of a ditlerent description will puh.ips he pleased with sicinp; them.
In the first j)laee, it is an almost uiiivc rsal o|)ini(jn, aiilion^^h comi) atted hy several well
informed Spani.irds, that the w ')oI«> of Sp;iiii dri not so miu;h ow e tin ir fineness and (jiia
lity to the temperature of the climate, or the nature cd' the soil on whi 'h the shicp aiv
bred, us the custom (A' i\i\\'u\\!; the Hocks tf) ditU n nt parts of the country. Hut \\ hat
proves to conviction that Spanish slit(p\ir|(| not only very line wool wiiliout their pi
riodical journies, but even f.ir from the elimate and soil to which the (pialil} of their
valuable burthen is attributed, is tlu suck ss of the Hoek which orij^inally came from
Spain, and which is under the care of Mr. l)aiibentf)n, as well as that which I was cm-
ployed on the |)art of Louis X\' I, to obtain fr<;m Ms catholic majesty in 17H.'^, for the
park of Kambouillet; both which ha\e constantl\ , from the period of their introduction
up to the present time, aflordeel wool, which connossieiirs have been unable- to distin-
guish from that of the Heeces sheared in Spain.
The flock of Kambouillet bull'ered, but in a dilllrcnt manner, from the diani^e of cli.
mate and food. Of three hundred and sixty w hich I Ibrw.irded from Spain, nearly sixt}
perished on the road, notw ithstandiii}^ the Spanish sluphe rds, who had the care of them,
drove them vcr) gently, and notwidistanding they were wintered in the heaths of Bour-
deaux, for the purpose of accustoming tlu in by degrees to the climate of France; but
this increase of mortality is theor<linar\ ell'ect of emi^r.itionsirom the south lo the nordi,
and men are even less exempt from it than animals.
In the first year of the removal of the Uambouilki llock forty perished ; this was attri-
buted to the scab which shewed itself soon after its arrival. The loss has each year
* III llils luimhcr I must not in silence pass l)y M. I.i'liiaMC, ;im iii^riiiiltiir.ili^l at Manwil li- I'oi't,
near Kpcriiay, a r't'ciicluniin who has sij^naiiscd liiinsi'll hy tlif l(iiiii;<.'st sriiis i)[ siurc ss in liis trial-
nieiit of sheep, and wliohas hail tlie charv^e ol forty-live iVoiii Kaiuboiiilli l ; M. Crainayil as \vell,\\ho,
at l>is estate of that luiiue, has attendiil very iiiuih to this specii s of ihihistiy ; M. Ch.ibert,()iie of the
most skilful persons of ail l'',uro|)e in the viteiin.ny scieiii'.e, who .a ono of liis I'uiiiis at Maisons, near
IMiarenton, keeps a lloik of Spanish sheep, wliieh ri fute all the oi)jeilion;> of siepiicism at:il nialevo-
lence J hut above all, those inesiiinal)leinini!)ers of the coin mission of ai^riiiilltirc and arts, in tlu- num-
ber of which I owe particular thanks lo Mr. (lilhiri. who had the particular superinleiuiance of the
Ramhouillet flock, for his inlelliyenee, zeal, and civility. Mr. (lilheit wasaman of i xciUent disposi-
tion, and a good citizen ; unforiunalely for the arts, and for his friends, l)y whom he is much respect-
eil. he died last yeur. To the member above noticed may be udded M. Chemilly •
T T 2
J94
MOt/ROOANNF.
IR^Vr.l.!! IN SPAIN.
iliminishtd upon ili.it of ihi' forc^^omj;, if iIk last hf cxfiptal, in which nearly a score
o| the flock h;is (urisluil; hut this i\iortaiitv uiust he iittrihutcd tooilur caiisin, siiici- i(
aflVct((l i)( arly at the same time almost ail tlic Hoi ks of the country, and with a greater
pro|)ortioiiati' loss.
Tlu Uamhouillct ilo( k, so wi II pnscrxed, has rer|uiri(l no other attention than what
ever) int« Ilim nt I'.irmir, stimulated hy intinst, (:\[\ allord. At liist it was kept lik<
those ol" Spain, eoustantl\ in the open I'.ir. 'I'he iiilhnnce of a ehaufje of climate tlu n
l)eji[an to Ik distiiij^ui-^hahlc These animals, withdr.iw n li'onx a u.irnxr ti uipirature,
felt the I fleets oi the eold, tlu' wind, and the rain, wliteh tlu ir close and oily tUece im.
bihed, it is true, with dillienlty, hut was louf^^ in i^^ltin^; rid of. Without coniinuiuf;
any lonj^ir the ixpiriment, their keepers liisiuud to profit hy what they learned, iind
inclose (I thf flock m l.ir^e com red lolils will aired. 'I'iiey had reason lor con^^ratulitinj;-
themselves upon the ch.in^e. Some lamix diiil of cold in the severe winter of I7*.>4.
17!'5, even in these pens, 'i'liis is the conse(|iieni:c of a circumstance in which Spain
has an a(l\anfa};i' «ivir iVaiui', and »\hi«hcannot he sli.irnl by the latte. In Spain thr
lamhs an filUn in the inontli of Octobir, wlienas in our (Tnnales ihcy fall not hclurc
January. Hut noiliini^can he ar^^ueil upon an exireniity of coM which does not occur
tnori than four or live limes in a century.
'I'Ik ehanf^e of food has not tended to deteriorate i itiur the H.nnI)oiiillet flock, or
those which havi' proceedi d from it. The soil of tin- districts where the .Spanish sheep
feed, as well in Castile as in I'.stretuadura, isin general dry and stony ; the j^rass there is
fme and short. It n\i|.',ht he dillicult to Iind a situation where the climate and herhaj^c
differed more from those of Spain, than the district of Hamhouillet. The greater part
of its park is covered wiili wood : its soil is almost eviry where argillaceous, clammy,
humid, and cold. It was impossible to have hegmi tmder more vexatious circumstan-
ces ; bu; the iKipjw results of this first trial have fal^ilied the predictions of all the cultiva-
tors of the counirj , and have proved that Spanish sheep maybe naturalized upon every
soil. It is know II that w heri' attempts for that |)urposc have been made in .Saxony, in the
duchy olWirtemberg, in Denmark, and in Sweden,* they have not degenerated ; but it
is in r'ranci only that these experiments have been lollovwel up in so fortunate and gene-
ral a manner, as to forebode a speedy national benefit from the ac(|uisition of Spanish
sheep.
Kor some vears back success lias crow ned all the experiments of this descri|)tion made
with ewes and rains,|- from the sales which government annually makes at Itambouillet.
As these the animals have always been sold very dear, as well as their fleece; and their
■ Of this I Iki\ e bctii cdin iiiie'd liilii r from sii iii^ tlii.ni, or from ircditahli' te'stimony, dnrinp; my
rcsidriue in tliesi; two kiii;.:;di)m:i. At I'ridi liikslnii'i'Mi r.iMlr of Uii.' kin-' of Dinmaik, I ^l.lwalll)Lk
of llu' Spaiiisli 1. 1(1' wliii ii, down Id tlit: I'ourili jMiiiiMlioii, li.id not d(',;c lu'i'.ued. li i-^ li'iu', lliis lloi k
was selrctid in SjKiin iisi If hy u Dane, \mI1 m rsvd in eMiy iliini^ ii.lutl\c to a^jricultiirr and tlic
vtteiiiiary art, and is atlindid to liy liiniiilf with as mii'li I'aiv ;is tiic hisl S|taiiisli slu |)luTd could do ;
this is Mr. Nilscn iiisprctor oft he hieedsof Uie kin^ of i)emiu;rk,;'.iid one of his mo:.'. '.:^< fill siihjrcts.
In Sweden I luive also hi'eii assiiictl, thai st)inc propriilors of lands possi ^s llocks whicu lliey luvc
hud for years, uiid wliiih prosper with luarly i '|iial siici i ss,
t Kxetpt this year, in wiiii h a taste fur siniplii ily, the olTsprin,^' of rirciimsianees, a necessity of
economy, and other causes more alllictini; and less transitory, have sensildy lessi'ni<l the price of the
sheep, us well jis their wool, for which the dialers offered no more than lod. I'.nj^lish in the grease,
whereas in 17U.2 it sold at 8 livies lo soii:i (or 7 shillings and Id.) while our common wool fetched 30
sous (1(1(1.) As early as 1795, the (Ualers had condiined lo ^i\> no more than 10() sous (or 50d. Enj»-
lish) ; and one sees with re^:;rel, that the ]» isonal advantage of the deah rs in Spanish wool may possi-
hly prove an uhiilacle to the entire dtnizciiation ^i Spanish sheep, more dilVieult to surmount in itself
than all those of a physical nulurc.
HOl/RCO V>f 'If.'s IKAV»I.S IN .IJ'AtV.
M3
cxcCMive price is a (.crtalti ^iianiiitrr of rin- lor tluir prt'scrvation. Prnfils can lie ad-
diu'i'd amoiif^ all ilu' inu lli^cnt nroprit tors ul)<>li;i\c di votid tin iiisclvis t(i tliin kii\(t«>|'
iiuiiihtry ; a pacific victoiv, nuult more v;ilii.il)U- tli.itiaiiy ac(|(iisitioii uhuli cotild result
/roniotir nnlitar) siici (.' >..sin Spiiin; a xictoi) wITkIi has Ixni iiicnasid l)V our treaty
oi place wiili tli.it power, tli;it sieures us ;in additional ll'iik ol those precious animals,
theexporl ol ulii(h is so rigidly prohihiitd hy the j^overnmeut.* 'I'he only measure
which can prisirvi: to I'lanec the p«)ssession of these .idvantafi;es has at last hetndilini-
tiv( I) deeicK (I on. It h.is now been d*. ti rmined that tlie sheep of the K.nnhouillet Dock
shall Ih lin Ij sold at hij^h prices. I'",\ery other nje.uis woidci have heen inellictual, lor
Frenchmen arc more the sla\esol'cusiom than is im.i^ined; and the country people ahuvc
all are n pu^ii.nit to all innovation. Kamsand ewe^lrom Spain, gratuitously distrihnt. d
as they Were at lirst, \vould iuLillihly have piri^hed in the luindsol' ij^norant and prejndi
cell men, lor want ol'care. These animaU h.ive nothing; engai^inj^ at, lirst si;j;ht. 'I'heir
dirty, close, and eurlcd !leece, their small stature, their shape, presen' i\othin^, in the
t-yis ol the simple inh.ihitants oi the country, <jI what appears to hem to c\.ir..( teriiic
the heanly ol sheep. 'I'he mode ol" selling;- them i)) auction was coi\ei iv.d the nost
certain ol all, on account ol' its dis|)ersin^ these chosen animals anon^^ coinioisscurs, and
makinf^ sell-interi st an indnei inent to the care ofthem. As to interest, the w orsi informed
jrrazier, however »j|)stinaie he /nay he, must soon he convinced that he w ill lind it in adop-
tinfj; the S|)anish breed, wlu thir pure or cros'xil. Sheep ol'eiiljer ol" thes< descriptions
ask no more care than what the comiiU)n ones of the ccnnitry recpiirc to be preser\( d
healthy, and in y;()<K\ condition. 'I'he same elimate, tijc same soil, the same I'ood, serve
for one as well ao the other ; they exact only a little n;» re cleanliness, on account ol'the
greater closeniss ol their fleece, and its bein^;' more oily ; and vei the wool ol them sells
for almost double the price of that ol' the otiier, and the V.eecc is as heavy aj^ain. It is
well known that the <:ommoj> weight ol'the fleece of ou.: of our shei p is from three to
four pounvls ; I" that of the .Spanibli *i,reid, whether p'lio or cr.>s"cd, is seven or eight.
Some well authenticated examples prove die extreme ditVeiencv between Uie weight of
the fleeces ci' our sheep and that of the Spanish breed. At his List shearing .\I. Hamer-
vilie, of the neighbomhood of Honrges, met widi a fleece in his Sj)anish flock which
weighed eleven pounds and a hall ; .md this year, at liaisons, near Clurentoi\ I kept
one ni} self which weighed nearly twelve poinids ; and yet it was not from a sheep purely
Spanish, \n\< from a breed of the third cross. The proprietor of this flock hase\en had
two ramso/an ninnixed breed, whiehfor tinxe vears to!'el'?er \ ielded thirteen or four-
teen |)oniuls of the linest wcjol, possessing, if not a pi r]'ecdy eijual fineness, at least all tht
elasticity, and every other good ipiality (j| .Spainsh wvo].
A double pnjflt is cert.'.inly thus afl'onkd to the larniers wJio renounce tlicir prejudi-
ces. There can be norei)ly to such aigiimenls.
There are i\\v departUKUts into w Inch this Spanish breed has not been introduced.
Since their oljiaininga high price they succeed e\erv where, on account of their \a}uc
♦ l)i\ I'i's (.listiii leu Ikivi' rclardid fuv llircc years Ur' cdhiijU tioii ol'tlKit iirt'uli.' ol" tlic treaty of Haslo,
by wliieli tlif Uiii); ol Si),iii allows ilir cspori. lioii lo I'r.,ii( e of six llioiisaiiil slici']) in tin- course of
six y< .as. It was not till 17'.»H thai Mr. (iil!>iii «l;s (lispitilu'il t(j he prrseia at llic purcliasi' aiulse--
lection of a p.al of llie >»l)e(psiipuIaU(l lor. 11 ^imk under llii' r..ii;;ut.'S ol' this \oya';e, as toilsome iu9
it Was iist'l'ul. NoiliiuK now irinains but lr» follow tlic r(;;i(l he had chalked out. I le.aii that a society,
aiilhoiized hy ^overniniiit, has recently taken upon itself to export, at its own expcuce, four thousand
Spanish sheep, part of those which tlie trc.ity t)f IkisU- K'Ui"'^ali cd to us.
t I tlo not here ii>cludc certain disiriclb where it is wcin.iOwn sheepof u \ery poor dehcrlption yield
fiom ten lo iwche pounds uf wool.
326
BOL'RfiOANNE b I W A V i. L ^ i .S '^rAl.S.
insuring those cares w liich animals removed from their native fields imperiously demand,
of whatever species they may be. That part of Franee whose climate and pastures ap-
pear to be niost eonj^enial to Spanish sheep, (Houssillon) is precisely that in which
t'.iere are none ; * doul)tless because its inhabiiants are not aware of the prolit t!'x'y brinjj.
Experience and time perhaps n ill teach them better.
But it will be asked, do these transplanted sheip, do their descendants of the pure race
yield a wool c(|u:illy line as in their native country "? In order to answer this question
faithfully which Sjjaniards may propose in spite, and Frenchmen with distrust, we will
frankly confess that our government, twelve years ai,'o, caused Van Kobais, of Abbeville,
to maiuillicture the wool oi a small flock of the Spanish breed which was at the veteri-
nary school ; ihut the cloth when made was as faandsome and fine as could be, yet did
not possess altogether the softness of Spanish n'ool. This experiment is perhaps the
least favourable one of this description which has yet been made, since from every other
it has been deiuonstrated that if the French wool is not altogether so soft as that of
Spain, it is yet ecjually fine, and has increased somewhat in length, without losing its
principal (juality, and this length renders it very fit for the warp. ' To sum all, the sam-
pies preserved aniuuilly since the arrival of the'Uambouillet flock, arc suflicient to satisfy
tlie mo>t incredulous, that in the ccnirse of filken years it has experienced no change
wlicitcver.
Nor let it be said that fifteen years are insufficient for determining that tlie wool of
die Spanish fltxks transplanted into France will not in the end degenerate. For if a
degeneracy be to take place, the first appearance of it would have shewn itself after such
an interval. Moreover, the flock of M. Daubenton destroys all doubt, since it has
mainiained itself in its pristine purity for more than thirty years ui)on die most ungrate-
ful soil ; and this inestimable agriculturist has published certificates of our most cele-
brated manufacturers, which attest Unit having empUned v.iihout distinction wool com-
ing direct from Spain, and that from his Hock, they had absolutely found no difterence
whatsoever. M. lAblanc, of Marcuil le Tort, assured me at the close of 179G, that for
ten years that he had manufactured the wool from the unmixed Spanish breed, descend-
ed from 'hat of Jiimbouillit, the n orkmen he employs distinguish nothing more between
this and that sent from Spain, than that the latter is in a trifling degree stouter. And
let us as we jjroceed remark, that this very slight inferiority of softness in the wool, is
perhaps the only consecpiencc resulting from the change of climate, diis quality being
principally ascribable to the great transpiration excited by the temperature of Spain, and
which generates the very unctuous oil with which the wool of the sheep is impregnated
in that country.
Moreo\er, it is not those sheep brought from Spain, or deduced from purely Spanish
breed alone, which give these results. Those which proceed from the cross with the
French breed at the fourth generation, and even sometimes earlier, produce as fine wool
as such as are entirely of the Spanish breed, provided the males which are con-
ceived of the mixed breed be either kept apart or spayed, and the female cross be cm-
plowed w ith rams of the \nnv race onl}-, for it is demonstrated that the ram has influence
double tl.at of the ewe upon the produce of propagation; provided further that these
delicate animals be not conliiied to narrow, low, or close pens ; and, lastly, that they
be intrusted to vigilant and intelligent shepherds, such as diat of M. Chabert, at Mai-
sons, who affords a model deserving of imitation in this respect. It seems, be what-
ever part of France it will in which sheep are thus taken care of, and thus crossed, the
* This WHS thi.' case at least in 1707.
HOrUCOANNE a TR.\\i:m IN Sl'AlN.
yj\
results arc the sinic. Go\triinHnt for some time biick maintuincd a flock at Sccaux,
])urj)ostly cksi|rn(d for comparative txiHrimciits upon the crossiiifij of rams of the j)urc
Spauish bred, with shci]) of the diflereiit departments. But these expirimeiUs liavo
not yet been sulfieiently numerous to serve as a basis for positive assertions. All that
can be positively aflirnu d is, that the Spanisli l)reed eross< d \viih slieep of tiie coarsest
\vool, yield at the latest at the fourth ireneration produce ecpial to the pure race ; that
if the pure breed be coupUd with lart>e sheep of a great fleece, the produce is the Ioniser
in arriving at the desired d( p,ree of purit} , but at length is bettt r furnished with wool ;
and that il it be crossed with sheep of line wool, such as those of Roussillon, Sologne, and
Berry, superfine fleeces are sooner produced, but are not so heavy.
Thus it is suflicicntly evident, that the famous (juality of Spanish wool does not depend
exclusively on the soil or climate of that country, no more than that the wandering sheep,
called Tras Humantcs, or Ganado Merino, reetivc the benefit which is ascribed Ironi
their travelling. The Spaniards have no occasion to seek the proof of this second truth
in our fields, they are themselves in possession of it. It is beyond dispute, that in I'lstre-
tnadura there are flocks which are never driven to any other place, tlie wool of which does
not perceptibly vary from those w inch arc kept travelling. It is equally true, that, in the
neighbourhood of Segovia, there are small flocks which never leave it', and whose wool
is as beautifid as that of those which do. I have been assured by the people of this dis-
trict, that of the twenty thousand arrobes of fine wool grown there, near a third was produc-
ed by the stationary flocks.*
To what then is the practice of driving these millions of sheep all over Spain to be
attributed ? To what but that which tends to cause, to propagate, and consolidate abuses,
the personal interest of the powerful, which has engendered the ruinous privileges oi
the mesta in Spain.
This is a comi)any of great proprietors of flocks, composed of wealthy religious com-
nuinities, grandees of Spain, and opulent indi\iduals, who find their account' in feeding
their sheep at the expenee of the public in every season of the year ; and who, by im-
politic laws and regulations, have given sanction' to a custom which necessity first estab-
lished.
The mountains of Soria and Segovia, condemned to sterility by tiic climate, soil, and
the steepness of their sides, were formerly the asylum of some 'neighbouring flocks. At
the approach of winter, their temperature was no longer tolerable. These delicate ani-
mals sought, in the circumjacent plains a milder air. Their masters soon changed this
permission into u right, and formed a company, wliieh was augmented by the addition of
others, who, having acquired flocks, were desirous of enjciying the same privileges.
The theatre was extended in proportion as the actors became more numerous; and, by
degrees, the periodical excursions of the flocks were extended to the plains of Estrc'-
madura, \\here the climate was more temperate, and pisturage in plentv. When the
abuse began to appear intolerable, it had already taken deep root, and aflected the in-
terest of the most powerful citizens. The consequence is, that, for more than a century,
there has been a continued struggle between the company of the mesta, on one part, and,
* In the sixteenth century the travelling- sheep were estinuitetl at seven millions: under Philip III,
the number was diminished to two millions and a lialf. Usiariz, who wrote at the bei^innint^ ofthis
century, made it amount to lour millions. The general opinion is, that at present it docs not exceed
five millions. If to Uiis number the ei^;ht millions ol stationary sheep be added, it will make nearly
thirteen millions of animals, all managed contrary to the true intere-its of Spain, for the advantage of a
few mdividuals. For the proprietors of stationary Hocks also have privileges, which greatly resemble
those of the members of the mesta.
.m
flOUnoOANNE S TRAVELS IK SPAIK.
on the other, the Estrcmcnos, or inhabitants of Estrcmachira, who hare all friends to the
public good on their side.
In fact, how can they view .vith patience the millions of sheep, tras humantes, which
fall from the mountains of Old Castile tipnn tlir plains of Kstrcmadura and Andahisia in
the month of October, returnin|if in the month of May ; and which, in coming and
^jfoing, feed along the whole of the road in every commune ; while the ordonnances of
I he mcsta allow tlunj a breadth of road of ninety varas (about eighty yards) and, while
the pastures which await them are let at a moderate price, an augmentation of which has
been for a long time solicited in vain. In short this imfortunate Estremadura, which
is fi;'iy leagiKs long by forty wide, and which might furnish subsistence for two millions
of people, scarcely contain a hundred thousand houses; and this want of population
can be attributed to nothing but the scourge of the mcsta ; since the provinces which
are not subject to such dreadful privileges, such as Gall'.cia, the Asturias, Biscay, and the
mountainous comitry of Burgos arc well peopled.
This crying al)use has been attacked by many enlightened S])aniards, as well of our
time as of former ages; by Lerucla, Usturiz, Arriquabar, even by thathuitrorous phi-
losoi)her Cervantes, who, under the veil of pleasantry, has given such wise lessons to man-
kind, and to his fellow-citizens, and much more recently by Don Antonio Ponz, by Count
Campomanes, Jkc. &c. Their voice has been "a \oicc crying in the wilderness."
This abuse does not even depend on the credit of powerful people alone, it is a conse-
quence of idleness, and misconceived interest, which prefers the grazing of sheep to
agriculture. Within a century wool has doubled in price, whereas grain, the culture
of \\ hieh is so toilsouK', and so precarious, has very little increased in value. Ten thou-
sand head of sheep will vield, comnuniilnis annis, two thousand iirrobes, or live hundred
pounds of wool, at the rate oi" five pounds per fleece. And rating the arrobe at no
more than 100 rial, or 25 livres Tournois, these ten thousand sheep will produce about
50,000 francs, or /200() sterling ; from which, it is true, the cost of their food is to be
deducted, the expences of their travelling, the rent of their winter grazing, the wages
of the shepherds, and other incident expences; but which yet leaves a net profit of suf-
cient amoiuit to render this species of property highly valuable.
As to the practice of driving the sheep to ditlerent pastures, besides its being sanctioned
by law, and long custom, it is not only excusable, but rendered necessary by circum-
stances. Either the number of sheep must be diminished, or some must travel a field.
Those which, during sununer, find pasture on the mountains of Soria, Cuenea, Segovia,
and Buytrago would die of hunger, if left there in winter ; and where can they find a
better asylum than in Estremadura, a proxince badly peopled, not opulent, and whose
pastures are its only reliance? lam well aware that this argument may be looked upon
as begging a (piestion ; but, up to this time, government has been willing to look upon
it as conclusive.
Others excuse the mcsta from that long endurance which perpetuates a system. He
who reasons thus would be scrupulous, however despotic his nature, of infringing on
the property of the proprietors ot flocks by violent reforms. And how is it to be ex-
pected, that they should be prevailed upon to renounce voluntarily a benefit, the ma-
nagement of which is neither very complicated, nor very expensive ; the produce of
which (nearly certain) finds an almost uk xhaustible demand, from the avidity with which
Spanish wools have hitherto been bought by manufiuiuring nations? Besides, the ex-
chequer is interested in the maintenance of this branch of trade ; for the duties which
are paid on the export of wool, form an important bratich of its revenue. Latterly it
has amounted to irom twenty-scven to twenty-eight millions of rials. A government
aOUnOOANN t.';, li;.vVi',J.o it: ;iPAlN.
32<<
He
will scarcely consent to drv up a souitc of such bciKfit witlu.ut havintr ;i rondv su()
stitiitc. '
There is a slower, but a more certain mode oi ol)li;rinrr Spain, in spite of hcrseii; in
diuunish this inniumraljle hostol'animals, which devour her, if I may use that expression
in speakini; oi" an aiiin.al, whose name alone imparls ideas of iimoecncc and peace. It is
that uiuch France is about adopting w hose success may induce otLvr nations to follow
her example, winch have hitherto ima-riuLd that they were ohlitrcd to have recourse to
Si)ain for wool. Then \\ ill the covetous and idle proprietors of these immense Hock-
feel themselves obli.qed to employ their capitals in adidercnt manner, inone Icsslucra
tivc to themselves, but more advanta,i,a-ous to their countrv, Fortunate will it be foi
Spam, if, calcult'linsr on th? consequences of this species of revolution, she prepare her
territory beforehand for its new destination, by increasinjr and perfectin«r her roads, hn
canals, and the other modes of vivification in which she is deficient.
In the present state of things, that in which thev arelikelv to continue for a Ion-- time
wool lorms one of the principal staples of Spain. ' Ikiorc the war of 1793, the ccmimon
exportation at Bilboa was annually from twenty to twent\--two thousand bales, of from
two hundred to two hundred and fifty pound weijrht ; and from St. Andero about a
third part of that r,uantit}'. These are the two jjorts at wiiich incomparativ eh the larL^est
part of the wool of northern Spain is shipped. If we are to jud^•e from the year 179-^
hngland is the country which receives the most, and Holland the next larirest (iuantit> '
France only standing in succession. That year there wasexjiorted.
Trcjin Uilhou,
10,170 bales,
0,180
1,180
654
350
I'roni St. AiuUti-K.
4,078 bales.
1,909
1,200
For F^ngland,
For Holland,
For Rouen,
For Ostend,
For Hamburg,
But the year 1792 ought not to serve as a guide. At that epoch, the commerce oi
France already began to feel the effects of the revolution, and the war which beg-an in
the month of May. Commonly the export to France amounted to nearlv four times
as much, or about eleven or twelve thousand bales, that is to say, more than half the
quantity exported from the rordiern harbours. If these bales be valued at no more
than 1,400 rials per hundred (tne average price of 1792. when superfine Leonese was
worth 18 to 1900 rials, and the commonest 1100 to 1150) and the bale be rated at
two hundred ; it follows, that the common annual importatioii of France, before the
Kevolution, amounted to upwards of 32,000,000 rials.*
Our manufactories of Louviers, Elboeuf, Rheims, Abbeville, and Sedan, particularly
that of Duretot, could not do without Spanish w ool ; the wool of Champagne and Berry
oi which their consumption, is considerable, serving only when used by diemselves for
common cloths, a part of it alone being used in die others. Some cloths, cassimeres for
example, are wove purely of Leonese, and admit of no admixture whatever. If then
trance should succeed in extending the propagation of die Spanish breed so far as to
render unnecessary the importation of wool, it ^vilI be freed from an annual comribution
wll'^'f" ?•". ^7"P"^^''"" every tl.in^; is taken at the lowe.t, since superfine Leonese is the nuality of
^^ool,«t which the largest qvianuty is exported, anrl. nuow of the bales ueigh two lunuired^" d fif^v
po nds, ,t ,uay be deen.ed i>ot too nu.ch to add a fourth part of this sun. of thirtv.t^vo Sou which
wil agree >vuth the account of the balance of trade, furnished by Mr. Flandrin ;' by ^vh cl U ^ noe- r
;-s.ucard^^s^;:',?:;l!'^ ^^^"' '^'- — «^ '^'-^'-^^ 'ivrc; ^see i*^:;^^
VOL. V. u u
.jJU
ij 0 u n (•; 0 \ N N h ' s i ii a \ K i. rj i s' s i' .v i v .
of 12 to lo millions. Let us hope, that tin- birth of pubHc spirit amonjj the iimahi.
tants of the country will fiiul in this a sulliciciu incentive lb;- dirttli'ii^ the attention of
agricuUurists to this iniprovement, se|uirute from the immccliatj ■•.(Ivantat^e arising to
themselves from a braiuh of iiuhistty, which, it is true, exacts care, but which rcciiiires
few expensive advances; uhith, \\ilhont dctractini^ any thini.>; from the value of the
land, exhibits a jiieans of reapinj^r a crop, winch does not ^^vnw from its bosom, and of
which crop almost die uhole is profit. La us now turn to what relates to Spanish
wools, where Spain alnnc is conceriud.
Of them she is capaiile of exporlinj;- ;.2 to :i.^,0()() bales, of from 200 to 2jO pounds
weight. The exjiorlalion of 17^2, tluoiiS;h the jiorts of liilijoa and Sr. Aiulero, was
to that amount, whhout including five or six huiidnd bales of Iambi w >'i| in the grease .
Jbr now almost ail the S|)anish wools are washed beltjre exported. Before the increase
of the duties on wools in the grease, which took place in 1787, almost all iht lain!).i
wool of the Leonese, Segovian, and Soriiis Cuballeros shearings were sliipj)ed in the
grease, and amounted to about 1800 to ^OOO bales, of eleven or twelve arrobes cacli
(297 to ;3i;4])ounds.)
For these thirty years back, the necessities of the exchcfjuer, and the jH-rsuasion that
foreign nations t'ould not do without her wool, however high its i)rice, have caused a
successive augmentation of the export duties.
Between 1766 and 1787, these duties were increased from 42 rials 12 niaravediespcr
arrobc for cleansed wool to 66 rials 28 maravedies, and from 21 rials 6 mia\i\', per ar-
robc, for wool in the grease, to 50 rials 4 marav dies.
In Spite of these successive augmentations, the exportati«jn of wool has rather in-
creased than diminished. It is one, but not tlie princi|ial cause of tlu ilearness of cloth,
the chief being the greater price of die staple itsell'. Within these thirty years die value
of wool in the grease has increased, the suiKrIine Leonese from 75 to 80 riaU per ar-
robc; and those of an inferior (jnality from 100 to 120 rials: notwiiiisvandiiig this, the
demand of the manufacturing nations has not discontinued ; on die contrary, at the con
elusion of the war which began to convulse luirope in 1792, the exportation appeared to
be greater. It is at Madrid," although at so considerable a distance i'rom the ceiiire of the
tine wool country, that the most extensive dealings in this article take place. In this
capital are four or five houses employed in it. They buy up the shearings of the flocks
in advance of several years together, of those proprietors w ho possess the best ;:*" but it is
not every Spanish house that possesses either the necessary capital, or the courage to cu-
ter into "such speculations ; and by far the greater pnjiit is left to the adveniurers of the
commercial nations. The French, the English, the Dutch, fetch Segovian and Leo-
nese wool from Bilboa and St. Andero, and do ncjt even leave the Spaniards a eomis-
sion upon the sales, buying the wool, wlien in the custody of die shepherd, and wasiiing
it themselves. The Dutch, in particular, purchase, in this manner, a very kirge pre
portion; not that they themselves manufacture the wliole of the wool they export, but
to enable them to supply those who resort to them under a certainty of being accommo-
dated to their liking. They pay in money for the wool which tiuy have to shear, and
•:rivc long credits to th.ose who apj^ly to them to select what may suit. The nianufac-
Uirersof'Viviers and Aix la Chapelle have endeavoured, in vain, to lay aside their inter-
ierence, and supply themselves directly from Spain ; in the attempt they subjected them-
*The duKc dc riiifuntado, for example, made a bargain in 1791, l)y wiiich he disposed of the pro-
duce of his shearings for eight years to come, for tiie sum of 100,000 piastres. The company of the
Ciremios, in particukir, speculate considerably in this arli<-,le. On the return of peace, it possessed
i\jn<' hundred bales, v.hich li found great diftkully in dis|)osin(,' of.
R()i']u;(i \ NN r-.":. ii!,\vi;j.:t in si'ain.
.i3r
was
=;(.'lvi;;to the £;iv;itcst inconv-.-niinrc. 'I'hcy win; flisplcasi'd with tlic wools whirli were
'Jiii^pccl to than. Thi v hod disputes aljo'iU tiic \)r'u:v, rind the credit, whif;h they in-
sJHtcd on hiwhv^ extended to fdleen months, and finally ended in resnminc!,- their old
plan.
_ NotwliJistandini,'' all the sfatenu iits we have colleeled, it isdiflienlt to ascertain witi»
nicety the (jtiantity of liiv wool aninially ship|)ed iron) the jiorts ol' Spain, includinir Se
ville, at wlneh t!i;il ol'ihc s'luthern provinces is exported. In 1790 I was assnred that ii
exported to tliL! anvnint of 60 million-^ value in rials. The followinj^ calculation ma\
serve t() show that tins rpianiity is even less than the truth.
Uc it allowed, that no nif)re be shipped from Bilhrn, than 22,000 balei, nor tlia:.
8,000 Ironi St. Anderr): to tin in let the 4,500 hales l)e added, whieh are exported In
Seville; colleetivvly thesr will f>)ian a total of 3t,5()0 baits. Those rated at no more
than 200 lbs. per bale, yield an anioin.t of r»,<;0(),000 lbs. v.hich at the low jHiee of 10
rials per lb. give the sum of ()!) millions of rials. In this eonipntation, e\er\- thini^ is
taken at a low rale, partieularly the price of the ponnd of wool, since in 17';)2"superrinc
Leonesc obtained IHPA\ rials, and eoninion 1150 rials the hnndred weij^ht, eonseciiKnth
the former cost more than 18, and the latter more than 11 rials per lb. '^ We shall there'-
fore keep much within compass in estimating; the value of the annual exports of wool at
80 millions of rials at least.* Will France continue to be one of the i)rineii)al iniportc rs.
and take anmially, as before the rupture between the two powers, her 10,000 bales?
Doubtless ; for should the jilan she has adopted become esla!)lished, should certain in-
tcrcsted views no longer oppose its jjrogress, should tlu- ealeulalions of avarice amono-
the Irench Ije stifkd by a love fnr their country, prcjudiee will vet for a long lime pre-
vail over reason, luid custom o\er intirest anvMigtlR" fuarurs. "Yet should this chancre
universally prevail, would Spain be the loser in iiropcriion to the accpiisiiion of Fram '^
Certainly not. This revolution in her jjolitieal econom\- produced bv degrees, would
necessarily conduce to improvement, and the adoption oi regenerating" platis. Proprie-
tors, pampered hitherto from the easy manner of thtir acquiring wealth, and some rich
individuals would suH'er without doubt, but the ma.^s of the nai'ion could not fail toffain
by it. *"
Spaniards, allies, look not tiicn with a jealous ejc on the lbrtun;Uc experiments we.
arc making, to do without your wool ! As yet we are lar off our aim, and vears must
roll before it can be effected. Continue to trust to that versatility, of whieli the revo-
lution has not cured us. Continue to trust to the strength of rooi^, which prejudice Ikus
taken m the country ; and if ultimately you should lose us, as purchasers, reflect that
the loss, with which you are threatened, does not create concern among those of your
citizens, who arc the best informed on your real interests.; Two of the most cn-
* A more nice rompiiUitioiuhim what is lic.'c cxlul)ltc(l l)v Mr. nour^nwniitMuli-ht lui%-c broa adopt-
ed l)vium. Ill Uic coiirso of Ui.' work lu- lavb )d()re the irader, ihe si.aa,ifii',s luade hv Lauren, ihc
hpanish imnisterui 178'J, l,y wliieli itappear.s, t.., * llu; duties eolletUd wn the wool in the year 1787
auK-unied to 27,419,246 rials, and a lew pawn's past he nieatiuiis tliat l!ie duty per ar.obe NVas for wool
washed Irom the -rease 66 rials 28 niaravedies. ConsetiiienMv, separate from what mii^ht he smutr-
g led out; and takiniy for i.-ranled (whieh woidd not he entirely the case) tiiat none was exported but
What paid the superior duty, the entire quantity will still have been upw.trds of lu(),000arrobes which
at 1600 rials per lOOlbs. will jrive 16(),()()0,000 of rials, or near 2,(J0(),u;ju1, sterling-. However larjrc
this may appear, it is hss than hail the value of her exports in this article since 1787. Translator.
t I 'im sorry thatu Sp.miard whose opinions are worthy of respect should think ilifi'ereiuly. 1 hive
been told that a French ianil owner to whom a detachment oftlie Rand)ouillet iLjck had been forward-
ed under the ^ruidance of one of the SpaiiisJi shepherds, having,- l)rou^ht this man to Paris after the
taj)iie of a )ear,iind tlunkmg it a duly to present him to his ambustiudor, was vcrv coolly received and
V V 2
J,>-
BDL'lK.OAX.Nl. :; lU.WJiLli IN SJ'.MN.
Iip;ht('iic(i ministers ol'this century, Cainpillo, under Philip V, and I.a Kn.cnada, undei
Ferdinand \'l, considered your immense export of wool, as one of the i^reatest obsta
r,lcs to your industry ; for as they observed, the peoj)le who receive it, return it manu
I'actured, and sell it'hack at a hi'jjjh price ; while those of an inferior quality, which re-
mained in Spain, are manufactured there ataf^n.-atexpenee ; your manufacturers indeiu
nifyiuj^ themselves, by the dearnessat which they sell their jroods, for the small f|uantit>
f)f'w(Mjl left Uiem to" make into cloth. Finally, many well informed persons amon|2,-
vou imajjiine, that by our concurrence towards causing a diminution of your too nu-
merous flocks, we raiher accjuire a claim to your ,u;ratitude, than merit your resentment.
Let it not, however, be conceived that Spain does not draw some advanlaf;e, even al
present from her wools, in a manufaeturiiif^ i)oint (;f view. For a louj^ time all low
wools are worked up at home for the cloihinj,^ of the troops, and the connnon people ;
and the exportation of them is forbidden.
By much the ij;reater part of the sheep, w hich furnish this kind of wool, arc black, and
the cloth is left of the colour of the wool. Hence the p^reat nuniber of brown cloaks,
which add to the sad and dirty appearance of the inhal)itants of the country, particularly
of the two Castiles. There is as well wool of a secondary (juality, such as that of Va-
lencia, the export of which is not forbidden, which is emjiloyed in the French manufac-
tories in Languedoc, but which for the most |)art is worked up in the country, where it
is grown. Fine wool also is used in several districts oH Spain with ^reat success, and
particularly in the manufactory of Guadalaxara. Whimsical occurrence ! its existence
is due to two foreigners, who made a rapid fortime in S[)ain.
It was cardinalAlberoni, who Ibunded this manulactory in 1718, and gave the ma-
nagement of it to Uipperda. At fust clf)ths of a second (piality only were made here,
notwithstanding wool from the best districts was used. Under Charles III, the munu-
tactory of San' Fernando, at which superline cloUis only were made, was removed to
Guadalaxara. (iuadalaxarathen had two mainifactories ofline cloth.
This establishment in 1783, was one ol' the most complete that can be conceived. Iv
had within itself every thing necessary for perfecting the manufacture of clodi, and all
ihe instruments and tools which are used in it were made upon the spot. It had eight}
looms lor cloths of the lirst quality, proi)erly called San Ferneandos ; one hundred for
those of second (juality, and five hundred and six for serges, by means of which they
hoped in time to do without recourse to England, to whom, for the single article of wool-
len cloths Spain annually pays 2,000,0001. These looms, collectively distributed in two
buildings, gave work to' 3823 persons, all paid by the king, without reckoning a much
larger number, dispersed among the fields of L:i Mancha, and the Casiilcs, and employ-
ed in spinning the wo(j1 designed for Ciuadalaxara. Except in what regarded cconomj-.
the want of which has been re])aired, it would be diflicult to meet any wherewith a ma
nufactor}' better organized. Guadalaxara consequently offers a striking contrast with
the towns about it. I did not observe one beggar, one idle person among the 15 to
16,000 inhabitants, of which it is composer' iManu factories, and particularly that of
cloth, have many minute operations, of which children, old men, and infirm people, are
capable. They are a supj)lement of labour, furnished by the arts for the advantage of
feeble or suffering humanity, to nature condemned without to languish, unserviceable
itself, and burthensome to others.
oblivinccl forunsivcr to llic thanks he gave liim as rcprescntiUivc of the court which had bestowed this
benefit on rriince: "No thanks to ;ne. Sir; for if I liad been consulted, never should a sheep of our
country have gone from Spain to Trance. " I did not in this answer recognize M. D'Arandu. He was
from habit more alive tothc true interests of his country; and above any paltry national jealousy.
I
a()L'«C;OAN NL 3 litAVliM, IN SPAIV.
.).). >
Thesf inaiuilacturcs have cxpcru-iiccd inan\' c.li.mf^cs since 17H.), .'irtordiiit^ to \\|i<
had the supcriiitciulaucc of Uriu. Vallif^io, fine of the last sii|)Lrimtii(Kiiits, madcsonn
iistl'iil althoni^h i-xpinsivi' adthiiuii.T to them. His successor, Don S.uifjat^o Itoiiiern.
pays less rcf^.ird to shew tlhiii uiihty. He has used nieaiN to secure a sale lor tlie cloth>,
and to cause them to he manufactured so as to suit the taste of the consiimers. The
Spaniards already vie w ilh Al)l)e\ illc in their o\\ n esteem, and do not f^reatly flatter them
selves. But will it he believed, althouijjh tlu\ have their wool from 23 to 30 percent
cheaper than us; althoui.!;h there he a sullieient jxipulation ahout these manufactories;
althoup;h there be no want either of wood or water, their cloths were notwithstanding, at
least previous to the war, even dearer than ours. *?*
It nuist however be confessed, and unprejudiced Spaniards allow, that their manufac
turers have yet somewhat to learn in dyeing and fulling their cloths. But when, as i^
the case with them, the materials ate not wanting, a few hands skilled in those branches,
are sullieient to perfect many manufactories. Government is watchful to procure them.
All these arts of seduction, which rival states mutually endeavour to make abortive, but
which they tacitly agree in overlooking, have been employctl l)y the court of Madrid to
decoy such workmen, and skilful artists, as arc still wanting to tlie iv.uional manufactures,
from England as well as France. Towards the end of 1734, 1 discovered that a manu-
facturer of one of our towns, whom I sh;>ll not be so indiscreet as to mention, sulVered
himself to be seduced by the Spanish government, which ofFercd him 160,000 piastres
towards establishing a manufactory of cloth in Old Castile, and for bringing a hundred
families from his country for the purpose of working it. No doubt the project was un-
successful, as upon my second journey into that country I could find no trace of it.
About the same time two of our artists (whose nanies I shall mention with pleasure)
Quartremire d'Isjonval of the Academy of Sciences, and Chardron a manufacturer at
Sedan, received s' lilar propositions, and rejected them. I have since heard that simi-
lar attempts have been made in England, and not without success.
The Spaniards have, however, now among them some skilful persons, capable of giv-
ing their cloths the highest degree of perfection. Such is Don Grcgorio Garcia, who
has the direction of that manufactory, established by the minister Lerena at Valdemoro,
the place of his birth, situated between Madrid and Aranguez, and one of his pupils,
Don Pedro Ciusta, a manufacturer at Segovia.
Guadalaxara is the only place in Spain, where the famous \'igonian wool is manufac-
tured, the precious produce of Peru, brought to Spain by the way of Buenos Ayrcs,
and which is met witli in no other country. In France they have endeavoured to ma-
iiufacturc this \vool, and those who have compared the cloth with the Spanish, agree that
the French has better face, but theirs a greater consistency, either because the Spanish
workmen understand die manufacturing of it better than the French, or because the
best (jualities of wool are reserved for their own use. Very few cloths, however, of this
description of wool are made even among the Si)aniards themselves, nor is there a pos-
sibility of getting them, without their being ordered several months beforehand. Some
are worked on account of the king, who makes presents of them to dift'erent sovereigns.
In 1782 Charles III, sent 20 pieces to die Grand Segnior, on the occasion of a treaty
* Cliarlcs IV, who visited the inainifactorios in 1791, foviiid there 300 looms for fine cloths of first
iind second qiuilities, and 3 jo for serines. They idVorded employment to 24,000 persons within imd
without the city, and m.inufuctured cloths unmudly to the amount of from 13 to 1-1 millions of rials.
The finest and dearest cloths on accouni of their colour, t)utof the second quality, sold at Si rials the
vara; the superfine San I'ernaiidos at 94; those of lirihuega at 74 and serges at 13. The vara com
pared with the i-'renehell is as 5 is to 7.
L
.>J4
ilOV«',0ANNl.'s T«.VV"l,L?J IN r.PAIN.
•fnu:IiicKcl hclWL'oii hiiu iiiul tlic I\)rto. h was oI)si rvcd at rhc tinif, tint Spain would
not l)c sorro} to ,L;ivc' tlic Turks a tasti.- lor lluir cloths. IJiit is ii likel) iliat Spain slj()iiltl
attinipt to rival nations, >\ho, in possession of loni^ continiud trade, an almost Insur.
nioMntal)Ir bar to sncciss in itsilf, have in addition an advanfa^';f o\er her in their su-
perior know Idlfjjt; in tlu' art of inanulailuring ? Will she not de' .,» it more [)rudent to
lal)our iKlori-hand at answering I'roni lur looms the demands of two. and twenty millions
of men suhjeel to her sway ; \n\\. she knows hi rself to he yet far ilist nit from sui.h a state
of prosj-crily. Ills not by the methoiK tii(.d in IIHH that she will mikf any proij;ress
towards it. The dirrrtor ol'the roval maiiul'actories could then pitch upon no expedient
to i;et rid ofa stock ofcloth, ofalxjut i2')0, ()()() piastres value, without loss to the eon-
C'.rn. th.iu b) ()l)talniiis^ ti decree, lorbiddin^ the exportation of all foreii^n cloths to
South Ameri( .1. 'I'iiis decree drew U|ion the }^-i)virnnnMit nnint rons redam ition^.on tlie
part 1)1" I''.iii;kind ai\ France, as will as those Spanish merchants w ho had lan^e slocks
of foreij'n cloths. I'lu edict was niodifuil. It coukl not fail of bein;; nu'^atory, from
the necessity that existed of rcmUriiii,^ it so, and necessity is ever iVn !e in frauchdenl
i\ :i()iu\es.
Oil tin' i\ turn of ptacc, the manufactures of Gnadalaxara, and DiihiK,::;.!, a town situa-
ted four Kagues from the fornur, ami whicli has a hunih\d looms tmploxed on liiu
( lolhs, wi.ie in a llourishinj; stati', and found a more secure consuiUjUi) i f )r their pro-
(.luce. In tl>e eoin'se of iTl'6 tliey hat! a warehouse at Madrid, which vended from 9
t(j lOjOOO pieces pir month.
Sif^ovia, famous at ail tinus for the exet Hence of its wool, was formerly not less so
J'or the piillelion to which its numerous manufactures were carried. How filkn Iron;
its aneiint s|)lendour !
The patriotic society of that place pretends, that at its most lirilliaMt period Si';i;ovia
had (iOO looms empUned on Ii 'c cloths. In 1()97 it had no more than 2.i(). Until to-
wards the middle oi' the iS'i eiitury they increased. In 17i8 it hail .)(v) looms, wiiich
i\e emnIo\ mi nt to -loin) ,iirsons, and consumed .SO, ()()() arrol)es of woul in the i^rease.
{-I
Latterly, i^ijveinment has !)een j^realiy, jxrhapstoo much, occupied in re_ujeneralinjL^ its
mamilaetures : for in 17H5, it isiabiished rri,i;i.' '.tions it» orgaiiizin,:j^ them, the conse-
ijuentes of \'. hi' h wi re, that for ihefne subsequent Mars there was an annual dimiiuj-
tion of •!'.' 0 "1' liie pieces worked. The cause of this was the nature of the Segovians,
so much l/i;^i;iulto custom, and adverse to all innovations.
Oi'.e, and one only, did justice to the enc )Urap,ement of ii;overiUTient. Don Laureano
OniiJ, in ITTU established a new maiuifaclory of supertiue ckjths, to which the kiuL;; L'^avc
assistance, by ri;ranlinii; certain privileges, by no means injurious to the other manufac-
tm'ers. It shortly bei;an to prosper. In 1780 it kept 70 looms at work, and employed
2.S00 pers<Mis. Ortiz h is made this an unalienaljle property in his family. His couittry
lost him in 1788, but his successor has inherited his zeal and his talents; and in 1792 I
convineid mjself thai the nLinnlactory had not I'allen off. The manufactory of Oriez,
wiih duit called de San Kernaiido, at Gnadalaxara, are the oni} ones in Spain at which
snpcriiiie cloths are made, a matter of astonishment in a country which produces in such
abundance the finist wool in Kin'opc.
Ijefore we leave Segovia, wc will finish what there is to say on Spanish sheep. It is in
the mountains adjoining this city, that a great part of the travelling Hocks gra5;c during
the summer. Tiiey as well as those of the mountains of the ancient Numantia (Soioa)
leave them in the month of October, pass over those which separate the two Castilcs,
v,rf)ss New Castile and disperse themselves in the plains of Kstreinadura and Andalusia.
Such as are within reach of the Sierra- Moreiia, go thither to pass the winter: the length
iioL'nco.w.v 1. J iit\w.r.3 in jf.\f.\.
• <>>>>
ul' tlitir (Ki) S loiiiiicy is in prfipcction to iIk: [Mstiiif iIk y iiu<t uitli. 'I'luy ii;i\tl in
llt)i;Ixs Iroiu a llioiisaiul tf) IwcIm lumclriil in miinhir, iM(Ur the conduct (»l'U\o slu ji
lutdh ; (MK' (>r whom i>> (mIIkI the M;.}f)i.il, tlu' oilier the /;ii:;;il. Whin iirrivid ;ii tli.'
|t|;i(c' ol tlu ir <!tsiiiiatirjii, the y i\w tlistiiluitid int'ii' pirfiiris |»i». vioiisls assiv;iii, d th( in.
I'hiy sit oil' on tin ir n tnrn in tlu.' nioiiih ol .Ma) ; and wliidur it he habit or iiatin'.U
instintt that di iwm thiin towards ihf i.liniati., which at this season hcconK's most propt i
lor them, tli( infiirKfiidc which ihcy inuuirist, ini!j,h'., in case of need, ser\e as an a'.
manac to tlu ii eondni tors.
I'!aeh Ihu k, l).lon:;in;.; to one proprietor, i"> caikd a eavana, and the collection (4' ill
shearing- of oiu- of these Hocks is called pila (»r pile. They take the uaine of their pro
pri'tors. The most ntinu r<,>iis cavaiias are ihosi- of Ikjar'aiul NVfjjretti, each of wliith
consist (jfsixiy thousand sluep. In that of the I'.scurial, one of the most fuinous, then
are lilt\ tiionsaiul. Prejudice or custom ^ives a prcfereiue to the wool of one eavana
over that of another. Thus, for instance, no wools except tho^e of the eavanas ol
Nij^retti, the l''.scurial aiul I'aular, are made use of at Gnadalaxara.
In 17iS:i the rams ami eues, uhich were sent to Ramhonillet, A\erc, as may he ima
i^'ined, selected from the ehuicest cavairas, and the lolhjw in.i>- ',\i re chose n in aelditifju u.
the threi' ue have before mentioned, those of die marf|uis d'Iranda, the martinis eU
Perales, Manuel de lialbuena and the coimt de San Uil'ael. Amonj^ duse eavana
that of St. l*aulur is reckoned to produce the finest wool in all Spain ; and the llock ol
Negretti is considered to be the finest, with respect to the streiif-th of the sheep, and
the weight of their fleece: on this account ten rams were selei ted from it for !•" ranee
which cost from GO to 80 rials each, ewes selling at from 50 to (JO rials.
While on Uicir return, in the month of May, they are shorn, an operation of con-
siderable magnitude in Sjjain, because there it is performed in great buildings called
csquileos, contrived so as to receive whole Hocks of lorl\ , fifty and someiimes sixty ihou-
*uid hheei), Har\est time and \ intage in corn and wine ccjimtries are not seasons of
greater festivity. The sheep shearing is a time of rej(jicing, both to the owner and
workmen. 'J'he latter are divided into classes, each ot which has its distinct cmploy-
nunt. A hundred and twenty- li\e workmen are necessary to e\ery thousand sheep.
Cach sheep produces four borls of v> uol, more or less line according'to the part whence
it is taken.
\\'hen the shearing is finished, the wool is made up in bags and sent to the sea ports,
where it is shi])ped without any other preparation ; or to theVashing or scouring placet,
ill different ])aits of Castile. 'J'here are se\eral in the district of Segovia, rparticu-
larly examined one of the most considerable, that of Orlijosa, three' leagues from St.
Ildel'onso. I was there convincid that this o|Kration, imperfect as it a]>j)ears at first
sight, bicauiic foreign manufiieuirtrs repeat it before they make use of the wool, suffi-
ciently answers the intention, w hieh is to preserve the wool, so that the longest voyage
shall not alter its quality. Through this single scouring place there annually passes aJjout
10,000 lbs. of wool. The place is of great extent, and forms a kind of basin, the inner
sides of which are gently sloping meadows, which receive the raj s of the sua in every
direction.
The wool is carried thither in the state it was then taken from the .sheep :* each fleece
is as it was first made up. In this form it is given to the xVpartadores, w ho divide it
♦ riundriii, who murlc a journey into Spain on purpose to study tl\e nature and treatment of sheep,
..lifl'crs in some measure IVom me ia liib account of the manner of washinf,^and dryini^^ I shall not dis-
pute the point with this valuable farmer, who as well as myself, has had recourse to the best authori-
ties. Ii the seasons and places be looked to, we may both be right.
.)V.
Ri»l'lt(.0 \ NNI.
IK w i; I.;. IN .. !• \ IN,
iiitn \\\\\c |^^■;lp^ ol'dillu'i lit <|ii;ilitics. They ;ir( sd much aciiistomid in tliis Imsincss,
which j'mniivsa li»ii;< jippri iui(< '.hip, that thi.y ciin w\\, at fust siji;ht, lioin wh.il purl
itl'thf iinimal lai'h Hock olwo.il h.i^lKcii taken. 'V\v sf thr».c t^orts thus separated arc
iMriul' (I iip'-ii WModiii hiirdks, whtiv (luy aiv spread, hcalui and clausal lrf)iu the
dust and dirt adhirin;;tt) thcni ; lhc\ arr .iIk ru.inK taken tf) ihc ua-.hiuf!,- place.
As soon as tiii' w.itir in liir ;^r».at cojipir is on tin..- point f-l" boiling', it is Kt out by
two }frial spi:;ots that open (jr shut certain pipi s in w hich it is convcjt d into tiiric square
Wills, linid with hewn stone, and al)()iit three or lour feet dei p. Thf hot wfiKr I'alls
upon a l)e<l of \'. ool, which covirs llu l.ottoin o|' the well. 'I'l." wftf)| thus di.. posed is
turiiul ill^\er^ dlreetioa by three men. I'.ach sort of wool is washed .separately and.
iic( ordin^- to it:> fnieness, rcfiuiresthc water to Id more or less heated.
AlUr this opi i.itif)n, the wool is a|:iin spread u[U)\\ hurdle-i, to driin ofT tiu- water
and lillh, which lias bei^un to dissolve'. The coarse locks are also separated IVoivi the rest,
.md sdld I'or the benefit of the souls in purgatory ; for, in Spain, ivlij^iuu is connected
with evt rv ihiiijj,'. The Spaniards saiictil'y by this freqiiei'''v whimsical association, their
oceupaiiun-;, lielii s, and even lln-ir pic asnres.
The hurdles are afterwards placed bclwee-ii the wells, aiiel a narrow aqueduct, throu<j;h
which runs a stream of culd water. A man placed at the entrance of thcafjueehiit re-
en ives the wool, and thre)ws it in ; while Inemen, who siand by ih ■ side below the first
man. pressane! lub it with their feet as it passes, and forward it from one to the father.
Mill luwerdown are other workmen who stop it in its passa<;e, and throw it on usionc
^li'pi , where it dr.iins, while the water runs off into a shutter e;ontrivi d below the slope.
A net, plae'td at the extremit) of the aipiednct, retains the locks which .slip from them,
,inel mi_L;ht be carried aw. ly by the rapidity of the current.
\\'hen the wool is we li drained, it is s )read U[)on the dec!i\ily of the meadows which
we have beiore' mentioned, and four line sunny da\s .iiv scarcely snllicient to dry it
thorou{.;hly. When it is (piile dry it is put into Im^^s tobe carrieel away. Initial letters
upon the baf>;s indicate the sort of wool eontaineel in each; and, l)esieles these, there is
a mark which distinguishes the flock by which it was furnished ; in this condition it is
c\|)orted, in this state traverses the country, so that on seeing those bales pass by, their
fpialllyand the pl.ice thev came from are easily reccjgnized.
Not far distant possibly is the time, when the roads of France will be covered,
with this precious article, and their ports se rve but as entrepots for the surplus, not
wanted for its ow n consumption. Let not Sp.iin behold w ith an eve of envy this possi-
ble success. Let not her aHies api;ear to her as dangerous rivals. Should they e\en
c\entually bear away from hcrchildau the exclusive possession of this advantage, docs
she not possess undividedly a sufliciency of others? The field for human industry is .so
wide, so various its resources, that all nations may cultivate it, without rivalry, or injury
to each other. Oftentimes in order to prevent grand quarrels, as to avoid law suits
between individuals, the: whole that is wanting is reason, and a clear understanding of
each other.
In the mean time I learn from very recent intelligence, diat at the period of the con-
elusion of peace, there sure iu the ports ol Hjjain 10,000 bales of wool, whose ex-
portation had been susi)en(U d by the war ; and that since the peace was signed, our ma-
nufacturers of Sedan, of Louviers, of Elbu:uf and even some houses at Paris, and Or-
leans, have expedited orders for Spanish wool, but to much smaller amount than before
the war. We should be astonished at our manufacturers having occasion to order even
these, after the rich prizes of this merchandise made by our cruizers ; were it not
known that they were carried lor sale to Amsterdam.
TmUIKJOA.VN'K':* IHAVrrn in fihyMN
CIlAPrKK I\.
nKsiOKM'K ov ST. anfcioN>,fi. i riat i/i ik oi. mi ioimi 'iiim
DItlll.U Ol^ KNK'II I ll'iiilt.
iii'.M I irv i.it.\Ni>»;i.>
I SHALL now Icivf Sigov'ui, its wool, and its t iniroiis, ;iiul crmdnct my nmUr t(.
the casllt ol St. IhUlniiso, wlijclt is only two li;i};ius IVom il. 'VUv hi^h luoiintuiiis
which coiunKii\(l it arc sii ii at a |;n at di^taiK c, and scare ly has the travilUr (|uittcd
Stgoviu belorc he discovi rs the castk- itsi If. lis tin irons l>\ no means announce th'
rtsidcnce of a p;rcat court. The country is barn ii, and a few wrctchi d hamlets, at
sniall distances, are scattered ahout tin most arid country that can In conceived; yd
what better could liO expected in this part of Old (.' istile, surroinuled by barren luonn
tains, and with.^iit roads, c.maU, or navij^able rivers? What, however, has principal!}
tended to the devaslution ol this district is the ininierous lurds of deer whicli live here
in peace, and never h.ive their n pose disturbid but by the kinf^ and his family, ulo
1)ass there about twf) nir>iiths in tiie year. .Scarcely had C'ljiirlcs IV, ascended tiie throne
)eforc (in spite of the hereditary taste for this amuse nunt) he began to make regula-
tions for the gradual destruction of tluse animals, and hastened the execution there-of
by giving himself the example.
The country, however, becomes more biautiful as ne approach St. Ildefonso ; a
number of rivulets meander through the fresh verdure, and the deer waiidi r in herds in
the copses, or bound upon the bills in a security which could not be expected in these
timid animals; the tops of a few handsome houses appear above the green oaks ; and
the group, Ibrmed by the castle and the adjoining edilicis, «ro\\ned by mountains, som*-
naked, others covered to their sumniits with trees and shrubs, present a very pleasing
prospect At length we arrive at the gate frf)nting the ro\al residence, which is sepa-
rated frotn it by a spacious court in form of a glacis.
The whole has an imperfect resemblance to Versailles. One at first imagines that
I'hilip \', who built St. Ildefonso, wished to have al)f)nt his pMsou su(h object a', might
rccal to his recollection the abode so dear to him in his e irly youth. He sccins to havr
had the s;une intention in establishing his military house hold.
Of the old guards of the kings ol' S|)ain there remains but one company of halbar-
diers, which may be compared to thai oi the lumdreel .Swiss. Philip V, e stablished three
companies of body guards, each of tw(j hundred men, modelled, w ith respect to form
and clothing, after the)se of the French omt. 'l"o these three bodies the king has
joined a fourth, called the American c(jmi)any. Two regiments, which guard the exte-
rior of die castle, that of the Spanish guards, and the regiment of \\'alIoons, arc also
perfect copies of our regiinents of French and Swiss guards. A compau) is detached
from each of them to do duty werever the court resieles.
The command of each of these six military corps which form the interior and e:;te
rior guard of the kings of Spain, is given to die most distinguished i)e rsons of the nation.
The commander oi the halbardiers is always a grandee of Spain. The captain of the
Spanish company of b(jdy guaids is one of the m«jst illustriejus families. A lieute-
nant-general has been placed at the head of the new American compan\. That
of the Italian company is generally an Italian nobleman, and theca)ji..in of the' Flemish
corps is either a nobie i'leming, or some stranger relate d by his famii\ to Flanders. The
same rule is observed with respect to die Walloons. The captain of the Spanish
VOL. V. X :<
.,,,y>
ii«frR(,o vwr'ti in.wri'. t.v .'.i'mv
};U;\r(l"> IS ,il\v.i\ 1 1 linxn IVom tlic njnst (listiii^Mitliul }<nin(U\N in Sjmu;. Tli^ (Ink
l)'(Jssmia liolifs !li:it sl;illnii .it pri'.Liil. '
'I'lu pi'ifil', ol tliL piulilirlloii uliich l'liili|) \ , liad lor llu' fi suliiii i ol' St. IIcitT'iir.i
Diivi' stir\i\c(l liiiii. Mis iviiliims iik- (kp'^ilcd in a ( liapil uitliin tli< cc^tlt . I \isitL<l
litis tiiimyilcutii iiioir than oiu'i-, wUk.U has sonulhin^^ itulut in its simplicity.
'I'hi appiar.iiM'i' ol' iht t<iuil» v\hi< h coiit.iiiu an illiistiioiis ptfs'm, alw > «» ixciti's si •
.•'ioii^ nlltciifjii. W hat th^llIlU(^t l)i; iIk mipa^^i-Mi inadi l)\ thai ol .. priiui , \vh«>^t
ctif;!! holds lO ilistin^fiiishid a pl.ici in modi rn histoi) , aiKllorms the ipoihaof the last
exploits jjI' Luiiis N I \', and of his ;;Tiati'.l disisiiTs ; ol' a prime lor whose iiitircsts
I'liin^pe was .ij^jitated liy thn („■ \\ .us uitliin I( «.i tlian half a ciiiiiin , and to whom ihi. con-
r|msi ol' the {^oxiittst ninnan hy in the wtiikl w.is not the accoinita.it ol' h ippiiu'ss ; Imt
proved in the [;Iooim\ m< I.iik hol\ which nhsciireil the last years v\' his lile, tliat the luosi
brilii.iiit siiceesMS ol' aiiiliilinii are ewr fidlouerl iiy satiety and 'ineasiness.
More pleasini^.ife the thoughts one eherishi •• in tlie inehaniin^j; abode whieh Philip \',
prip.iiid for hiinsellin the midst ol'sKniesterid woods, siiiTiuiiiileil l>y sleep mountains.
'rhere is nolhin;; maf^nilieeiit in the palace, particularly in it*' exterior. T lu IVont on
the side ol' till' i';ardin is oldie (nrinthiaii ordi r, and not di-.tiiiite of m.ijesty. IKrc
are the kind's apartments, >\hit h look upon a parti rre sinrninidid wiili \asis and inarhli
stiiliic's, and a cascade which for the richness ol its decorations, the purity and citariiess
of its wall is, may he compand with the linist ol' the kind. IMiilij) \', was in thisre-
stKct much heiUrserveil hy naliire than his lather. I'lom the mountains which shade
the palace descmd several rivulets, which supply the numerous roimtains, and dilUisc
life and verdure through these luai^nificent I'ardens. 'I'hey arc on the inside alea}{iie in
riicuml'i I'enee. The in((|ualil) ol the }j;roiind allords e\iry mf)ineiit new points ol"
view. The principal alleys answer to dilleient summits ol lu ighhouriu;; mountains.
and one in jiarticular products the most aj^reeable ellect. It is termin.ited at one etui
by the firaiid I'ront ol' the palace. I''rom this point are seen at oiie\iew live rfninlains,
ornamented with ell ;;ant };tou|)s, risini; into an amphithialie, aljove which appear the
siinunits ol' I'^lt) nujuntaiiis. 'I'he most elevated ol" these ^;r(Mipsis that of Andronudu
I'astened to a roek. When seen at a bhort distance it is somewhat directi\e, the rock
appeariii!^ too diminutive by the side olthe iiKjiister which threatens Andromeda and
I'erseiis, bv whom it is attacked ; but the whole contributes to the IjeaiiU' of tile view.
The most remarkable indisputably (jI' the live f^roiips is thai of Xeptune. (ieiiius pre-
sided both ul tile composiiion aiul in the choice ol" its siluailoii ; the j^od of the ocean
appears irect, surrouiuUd by his murine court. His aliiuule, his thnatc ninj,'' countc
;iance, and the manner or lioldiuj^- his trident, announce llral lie has just imposed silence
on tile mutinous waves ; and the calm which reigns in the basin, deleiided liom even.'
wind b} the triple wall of verdure by which ii is surrouiuUd, siem t(j indicate that he
lias not iisued his conunands in vain, llowol't lia\el seated ni} sell', with \'ir,L;il in my
hand, under shade ol" the \erdaiu luliage, beside the silent w.iter, ivlleetingon his famous
Quos I''.go !
Time i.re otliir n.untains worthy ortl.ei.ttmtion ol' the curious; such as that ofLatoiia,
where the limpid iheaves, pirpeiidicularly, and iu e^ery direction, fall Irom the hoarse
• ll is he who in 1790 piisscd scvlimI mondis ai I'.iris wlili all liis f.iiiiiiy, and who j^avc aspecimcn
.)fthc siuupUiosity ol' the giaiuli.t s of Spain ul' tin; first order, and at tin: same time of the simplicity of
their ceremonies, tlieir afl'abiliiy, and in short of every thinii; w hirli tempers in tliem tiic splendour oi
■I jfreat forUinc \vith a [ri'tatname The revenue of M. le Dui- D'Ossiaui is ni.'nrly ',00^,000 of franc?-
(itik
II 0 1* in; y A s M I,
I It U'fcLu 4.S' JHAI V.
.»JI»
J^rnata oltlit L) 1 1:111 jKuvints, ln'J' ti:in«,lonnnl infc IVoj,"., mA ^p«iiifiiipf tht»m forth in
biu liabiimlaiitc, lliat tlii"if:itm'()('fh« i^ocld^ ssdisipix irs iiinli r tin witU' mantli' olliquiii
cryslnl; thai also of Diana in the l>alli, MinoiiiKKd by Ikt nyinph-i; in the tninklinnot
an cjeall the chaste ronrt is hi«l In lu aih the wali is ; tlir sjuctalor iinajj;incH lu; hears the
\vlnstlin((ora(|natic birds, anil the loaiiiif;- olliitiis Irnia the pfai-i- uju me this moiiKn
tary dcln^e cbca|)es by ahnndrid <luinn( K. TIk (finiitain of I'aine i-. Conned by a sin
p^c jit-d'tan, wU'irh rises a hundred and thirty lit t, <xhibits to several leaj^ncs around
the triumph oi" art oveniatutv, and falls at leiij^th in a i^rntle show ernpon the astonished
spectators,
There are some situations in tlx; {gardens t»rSt. IldifMiiso, whence the eye ma)'eolL'
tively dislinj^iii'.Ii the greater part of tlnse fountains. The travi Her who wisln s to rhariii
all iiis senses at onee, must take his station on ih • hi;;'h 11 it in front (»f th:- kin^j;^ ajjart
inent. In the thick. parKjf the folia^je areeontri\((l iwo I ii;,i: arbours, throii;;!) the win.
df)ws rut in whieh are seen twenty er_\stal e')Inmns ris'.:ii; into the air to the height of
the surrounding trees, mixing their nsplendeiii w hiieness w iih the verdvire of the foliage,
imiting their confustd noisr to the riisiling of the branelus, and rcfn shingand imlialm
ing the air. Ascending towards the giaiicl res<.r\<»ir of tlKse abundant and limpid wa
tcrs, after having traversed a superb parterre, and elimbing for some time, you reach .i
|f>ngand even alley, uhieh oe.cn[)i».sall tht upper part of the gardriis. In the iniddk ol"
this alky, turning towards the r.'stlr, a vast hoiixdu apiuar.s as far as tin. ije can itaeh
The inunense gardens, through which } on hive passe d, bicoiiu' narrowe;' to the ejc ; tin-
alleys, fountains, and parlerns all disappear; )ou see but one road before you, which in
the form of a vessel, uponilu' prow of which you seem to stand, has its stern on the top
f)f the palace. Afterward, on turning, yon have a \ iew of a little lake behind joti.tjl'
^vhieh the irregular borders do not, like \\\v.\l ww call o\n' I'iiiglish gardens, merely mimic
the captivating irregularities of nature. Nature hersilf has traced them, 'i'he allev
from which yf)U enjoy this prospect is united attach end to theeurve which surrounds
the reservoir. The waters, which stream in abundance lioin the sidts of the \\ood\
mountain in front, these waters, whose distant murnurcs alone distuib the (juiet of the
scene, meet in this reservoir, and thenee descend by a thousand invisible tubes to (jiher
reservoirs, whence they are spouted in columns, sluaxes, or arcades ujion the llowery
.soil which they refreshen. The image of the tul'ted »iOo(ls which surr(jurid it is ixlleet-
ed from the unmoved surface of the lake, as is also that of somi; simple and rural houses
under their shade, thrown, as by accident, into this delightful pietuie. Tiu- streams
>vhiih leed this principal reservoir formerly lost the inselves in die valk} s, without alloril-
ing either profit or pleasure to any our. At the call ofartthex ha\c become both agreea-
ble and useful. Alter climbing the pyramidal mountain w here their source is concealed,
30U reach the wall of the garden which was hid b}- the thickness of f<.>liagc. Nothing in
fact ought here to strike the uiind with ideas of exclusive property. Streams, woods,
the majestic solitude of mountains, these arc blessings which man injoys in common.
'I'he rivulets which escape from the grand reservoir serve; In- little ehamiels, some visible,
others running underground, t(.) water all the plants of the garden. In their course , in
one place they moisten hastily the roots of the trees, in others they cross an alle-\- to
nourish more slowly the plants of a parterre. Troin the basin of AiKlre)meda the\ run
between two rows of trees in a hollow and sombre channel, the too sudden inclination of
whieh is taken oH" bv cascades and windings. At leiisjjth, after dissecting the Lvarden in
every direction, after playing amongst the gods and nymphs, and moistening the th'-oats
of the swans, tritons, and lions, they sink under ground, and enter the bosom of tb-
jieighbouring meadow s.
X X 2
MO
iJori!';oAN'Nr:,':.. rnAVKT.s in gi'ain'
The t;isk \vc:rc(M\flI(ss to ( nuuKratc all tbc sUitvics, s^roups, and r*»nnr;»ins wlmJi rU
coratc tin- i^'atdtns of St. Ildcroiiso. I shall be coiitiiit with iiotioiiu; diut, a very ftu
])itccs cxooptcd, all the sciilpuire is the work ol" rreiielt artists of a secondary rank, sucli
as Ferniin Thierry, whom Lf)uis XIV, sent lo his j^randson, and their pn|)ils, who ar(
somewhat their inierifr.s ; thev have displayed more mairnificcnee than taste in the sf|iiarf
of the eiij,ht allies, Plaea de las oeho calks. I'/i-lit alleys answer, each at one exirvuii
ty, to this centre ; the other tcrminatini^' in oik: of the luinitains, dispersed thron.s^h the
irardms. Plats of verdure fill up the intervals between the allc\ s, and each has an altar
nnder a portico of white marble by the side of a basin sacred to some ,^od or goddess.
These Ui,dit altars, placed at efiual'distances, are ticcorated with several jets-d'eau, parti-
cularly by two which rise ptrpendicidarly on each side of their divinities, and have a
ridiculous resemblance to the wax-lights of a christian altar. This cold regularity dis-
pleased Philip \\ who a little before his deatli, when visiting t!ic gardens, made some
severe rej)roaches to the inventor upon the subject. Philip had not the pleasure of com-
pletely cujojing what he h;id created; death surprised him in 1740, when the works he
IkuI Ijegun were l)ut hall" liiiished.
'J'his nude rtaking was the most expensive one of his reign. The finances of Spain,
so deranged imder the princes of the house of Austria, thanks to the wise calculations of
Orrv, tt) the subsidies of Prance, and still more to the courageous eHbrts of the faithfid
Cas'tiliaiis, would have be in sullicient for three long and ruinons wars, and for all the
operations of a monarchy v.hirh Philip V, had con<iuertd and ibrmcd anew, as well as
to have resisted tl»e shock', of ambition and political intrigue ; but they sunk beneath the
expensivi' i llorts of magnii.tcnee. Sovereigns of every state, K-arn from this example,
that }(tur gloi), \Qur disasters even, are sometimes less dear and biuihensome to your
svd)jeets tlian vouV pleasures ! Will it !)<■ ( redited (it has however l)een precisely ascer-
tained) that Philip \', exjiended forty-five millions of piastres iu the constructitm of the
r.istle and gardens ol St. II(U fonso ; and dial this is the exact umour.t of the sum in which
lie was indebted at the time oi his dead).
This enormous exp( Jirc will appear credible when it is known that the situation ol
die royal palaeo was at the beginning of this century the slopin.'i top of a pile of rocks;
that it w MS necessary f- e ig and hew out the stones, and in several places to level the
rock ; to cut out of it' sides a j/assage f(^r alumdred difierent equals ; to carry vegetative
earth to every place in which It was intended to substitute cultivation for sterility ; and
to mine, in order to clear a passage to the roots of the numerous trees uhi-h are there
planted. So many efibrts vaxe crowned with success In the orchards, kite;hen gar-
dens, and parterres there are but lew flowers, espaliers, e)r plants which do not thrive ;
but the trees naturally ol" a lofty growth, i :id wiiich conseeiuenti} must strike their roots
deep into the eardi, already prove die insuflieienc} of art uiien it art(.m]ns to struggle
against nature. IVhmy of them languish with withered trunks, and \vh.\\ diHuHiliy keep
life in their almost naked branches. Kvery year it is necessary to call in the aid of gun-
powder to make new beds for those which are to supply their place ; and ncjne of them
are covered with that tufted foliage which belongs onl} to tlmsc iliat giovv in a natural
soil. In a. word, there are in the groves of St. Ilelefonso marble statues, basins, cascades,
limpid waters, verdure and delightful prospects, every thing but that whicii would be
more charming than all the rest, thick shades.
After the dt^ith of Philip V, the castle of St. Ilelefonso was entirely abande)ned by the
court of Spain. His second wife, Isabel Farnese, was the only one who resided there ;
and during the reign of Ferdinand VI, the son of Philip's lirst wife, led there a most
retired and private life, without ever going out of the apartments of the castle, at least
ItOLKi.OA VNF. i rHWIK ^ IN G P .M .V .
;mi
very few
ink, sucli
, wlu) art
lie sf|ii;irf
cxtri.ini
•oiii^-h the
IS an altar
goddess.
ail, parti -
id have a
aril}' dis-
ude some
c of com -
works he
of Spain,
ilations of
»c faithful
for all the
as well UK
cneath the
example,
le to )our
[lely ascer-
tion of the
II ill which
iti/ation of
of rocks ;
J level the
vegxtative
'iiity ; and
1 are there
chen .:^^ar-
lOt thri\c ;
their roots
) hlriiggle
niliy keep
id of gun-
ic of them
I a natural
cascades,
would be
led by the
led there ;
re a most
c, at lea.st
Without once txrctding the ljf)iMKlaries of the gunleiis. 'J'his sinjjfularity f lia\e had
attested by many mIio accompanied her in her retreat. She divided lur time in the
most straiiii;e manner, sitiiii!;^ up alwavs the whole niiiht Ions;', (had as it were to the
world, and to the l!!;ht of d.[\. She- seemed occupied witli nolhins^ but her bodily
and i^hostly heahli, uhiulur son Charles III, then kint^" of Naples, comin;; to tin;
throne in IT.'jP, upon the diath of Ferdinand \'I, that ambition which did but slumber
in her began to shew ilsell'a ju w. .She again ai)pearetl at court, and llu re exercistd
for the remainder of ht r lil'e as much iniltu I'.ce as in the reign oi' Philip \', the weakest
of monarchs and of husbands. CrharK s III, inherit( d the taste of his fallu r for St. llde-
fonso. 'riiroughou' liis reign the court came huher annuall}' during the heat of the
dogda\s. It airi\ii! lowards tSie end of Jul\ . and returned at the beginning of Octo-
ber. The situation 'jf St. Ildelonso, upon thede(;livity of tlie mountains which separate
the two Castiles, and fronting a vast plain where there is no obstacle to the passage oi"
the north \* ind, renders this alKjd(,' delightlul in the summer months. The mornings
and evenings of the hottest days arc agreeably cool, and the to[)s of tlie mountains an
covered with snow during a major part of the year. Vet as this palace is upwards ol
twenty leagues from Madrid, and half of the road which leads to it (that which begins
at Guadarrama) crosses the broad tops of mountains, fref|uent!y very steep, it is much
more agreeable to the lovers of the cliace and solitude than to olhers. Tiic reig'iing
queen, when princess of Asturias, had an aversion for this place, whicli she manifested
upon all occasions. Charles IV^, coming to the throne in 1 789, it was imagined St. Ilde-
fonso would be entirely abandoned. In elfect, the fust summers passed over without
the court's visiting it, the king being satisfied with short excursions to it. liy degree-,
this rei)ugnance diminished. The liappy temperature of St. lldefonso has enforced it.s
rights, and the expeditions to this place take place at their usual periods. On my first
appearance, in Se|)tenibcr 177.", the court was here; and here it was that I saw it foi
the last time in the month of August 17'.' J; events which rapidly succeeded cacli other
after that pcri«x:, preventing my attendance there up to the time of my departure, which
was the signal for hostilities Ixlwecn the two powers. Ne\er was this residence moiv
Ijrilliant th.m on the occasion of the \ isit of the two French princes, the count d^Vrtoi^
and the duke de Bourljon, to Charles III, in 1782, on their way to be present at the
siege of Gibraltar. Since the beginning of the reign of the house of Bourbon in Sijain,
tliis was the first interv iew of this description. The old monarch, w ho always had '^
great j)oriicn ol luitural afitction, displayed upon the occasion as much kindness as mag
niiicence, shewing a solicitude and delicacy upon ac(;ount of these two relations, whicii
it wus difiicult to reconcile with his simple manners. The count d'Artois and all his
suite had apartments in the palace. The whole hou^e was at his service. Especial (ar.
was taken that his near aMcudants in tluir dress, their manners, and language, should
retrace as much as possible the image of his father's court. 'I'hosc attentions had no
other limits than what W(.re prescribed by the pnMiriety of not o\erw helming liim with
ceremonies, and leaving liim in perfect heed'uii. Charles III, li\ed a \< r_\- regular life,
all his hours were aj)pro[)ri.ited. liunling, liiliing, prayer, labour in the cabinet, ever',
thing was contiiiued as before. The duke de liourbon, who went by the name oi
Danmiartin, was treated with less form, but not with less afiection. Young and stran-
gers to the eti(juelte of the Spanish court, the two princes felt the want of a go\ernor,
and submitted themselves to the care of the count of Monlmorin, the French umb:'.ssadoi
at that time. He was my patron. He perished b; the hands of cannilxils amid tlu
storms ol the revolution. Party spirit ascribed wrong cotiduct to lini ; for nu , 1 know
best his mibfurtunes, and far be from me the fear of acknowledging his kindness. aiK'
3 I id
BOUKuOANNE
1 il A \ 1-. 1. S IN G 1' A T N .
niuUrint,' hiiu thai trihiitL- of justice and iri-atHudo which 1 paid him in his prospcrify.
His adversity Ijiit more enhaiiees my obl'y lOii. I ilmll there Tore observe, that during-
tlie six \r.irs of his embassy wc proved ; i liim what the Spaniards were disposed to
doubt, thai rrenelmiennnn- possess c;ra\ity without pedantry, wisdom without sternness,
dignity u ithout assumption, and prudence without timiflity. I sliould add, thit receiv-
td by the kiuLi; w ith all tliat resiict he was entitled to, he acquired the conridence of the
ministry, the friendship of the tijrandees, and the esteem of the whole nation ; and not-
x\itiistandiuf;- tin rcscrvedncss of his manners, 1 know none who possessed his intimacy
but what wiix hit;hl\ prepossessed in his favour. Tliere is no court in J'',urope, vvheie
the [xrsons of ambassadors are more i^ienerally known. Durint^ the reign of Charles III.
tJKV were even subject to an assiduous attuulanee which was fatiguing, particularly tiit
family ambassadors. They almost all accompanied the com-t to Si. Ildefonso, the Kscu-
rial, and Araiijue.-., and regularly attended ilie table of the king and his family. They
had daily a private audience of his majesty, both before and after dinner, and die rest
of the foreign ministers as well as them were admitted for a short time into the cabinet,
'.riiey now make their aopcaranee at court no more than twice a week. Charles IV,
still moic simple in inannu-s than his father, has done away with superfluous ceremony,
although in his private life lie maintains the same unit'ormiiy and regularity. Me is :us
partial to shooting as Charles III, but his partiality has been rendered of much less in-
jury to the neighboiu-hood of Ins resiliences. He lias a taste for the line arts, and tigri-
rulture, as we shall noiice on speaking of Aranjuez, for adiletic exercises, to which his
strength and robust constitution arc peculiarly tidapted, and for music, which he as well
as the (lueen, enjoys in very circin)iserib( d parties, every e\ening alter returning from
shooting, and bt nig eloseu d with one <j1 Ins ministers ; lor nothing is so rare, even at the
•-ourtofthe reigning family, as public rejoicings and noisy pleasure.
This court, so muen retired, so regular in its de|)ortment, is very far from being defi-
cient either in etitjuttie or magnificence. Charles III, a widower from 17(')1, always
dined in public In Inmself, surnnnidt d by his oHicers. The reigning monarch dines
with the (lueen. Kach iias behind their chairthe grand master of the household, the
chief ahufjiicr, the captain of the guards on dut}-, and an exempt of the guards. They
are w.iiled upon by two gentlemen of the presence, who are grandees of Spain, one of
whom ser\ es tliie dishes, and the other hands the wine, kne'cling on one knee. The
same ceremoii} is used by the ladies of the palace to the (jueen, and to the infants and
infantas b\ titled i^ersonsin their ser\iee. The philosopher may smile id this vilifying
homage, I>ut it does not belong exclusively to Spain. It is well' known the same forms
are made use oi' towards the sovereigns of London and Vienna, and to their families,
where the power of the monarch in many respects is limited. This homage, however,
is more particislarlx- disi>la}ed on gala-dajs. Tliese are of two kinds, the greater and
lesser galas. In tlie time of Charles III, there were ten of the iirst description every
\ ear, to cile!)rate the birth-days of the king, the prince and princess of Asturias, and of
the kingand (jiieen oi Naples, the one as son, the odier as daughter-in-law of die king.
There are now only six ; four for the king and queen, and two for the prince of Astu-
rias ; the other lesser or demi-galas, are in honour of the other princes and princesses
of the royal family, and at present are twent\-two in number. These requite but little
more attention to dress than (ordinary ; but at the grand galas, the greatest pomp is dis-
plajed by all exee[)t the hero of the day, in wiiich, however, taste does not
alwa)s preside. Every person in the service of the court, from the grand master
to those who hold the most inconsiderable employments, have u uniform suitable
^J their places, and which they wear on these occasions, ou which account these
HOUllf. ^ A .VN r.'.- •|UA\:.L:i I \ liPAiV.
;>l'.5
arc callftl rniliis con uiiironiK'. In the nu)riiin!>- 'jf thrsc c:ivat d.ns. all tii'»s< who ha\c
any connexion with the court, whctlur by their military scr\ ice, their titles, or (.'ix il
("unctions, the ecclesiastics, and alu;ns sonic monks, pass before the kin.L,^ and the royal
flunliy, bendinp^one knee and kissinjj^ the nonarchs hand. This is a species of loyalty
and homage, and renewinj^ ol'thc oathi;. fidelity, which, besides npnn (rala da} s, is also
paid to the monarch on returninii- thanks foranv lavour, or on takiiiii- leave to execute his
orders any where apart from his residence.
Republicans, should they not even bo philosopluTs, may i)e allo\'.ed to smile with
pity at these gra\c miiniti;c. They 3 et lav descr\ iiiL;^ cf detail, as they furnish additional
means for ac(juirin}j a knowled<;'e of the human heart, lis pride and its weakness. This
abasement, which, withfjutbcinj^ noble, ma} be hoiked upon as vilifyint^, has, however,
nothing more revoltini^ in it than the ceremonial at which our aiicieiit kni;^hts did not
disdain to kneel, upon reccivint^ the collar; or, than the investiture which, in our days,
is accompiuiied by the sanae act of submission. But \\ hat is truly singular, to say no more
of it, women of the greatest distinction not only kiss the hand of the monarch, but that
of al! his children, whatever may be their age or sex, and the most charming dutchcss
prostrates herself before the youngest infant even when at the breast, and [iresses, whli
her lips, the little hand which mechanically receives or refuses the premature homage.
Thus is the fair-sex destined to meet every where with insult ; denied in France the pri-
vilege of citizenship, it has no share in the honours of freedom. In Spain, it is admit-
ted to the honours appertaining to slavery. I shall, ho\vevcr, observe in behalf of Spanisli
etiquette, that it favours the delicacy of the lair-sex. Men kiss hands in public, but the
ladies only in the inner apartments. None l)Ut the ladies who have employment in the
palace, kiss the iiands of all the royal family. The others, who are received at court,
pay this homage to no one but the queen and the princss of Asturias. This class is
composed of all the female grandees of Spain, and ladies of title ; which denomination
must not be understood in the sense affixed to it in France. It here becomes necessary
to treat of the dignities and titles of the court of Spain. '^■
Princes of the blood, as we called them, have not hitherto been distinguished as sucli
at this court. Next to the infants and inlantas of Spain, and the sons, grandsons, and
nejvhews of the sovereign, immediately conic the grandees ; and the dukes of Me-
dina Celi, the immediate and legitimate descendaiAs of the infants of La Cerda, and
consequently of ro\al origin, are only grandees of Spain. These are divided into three
classes, differing from each other bv such trifling distinctions as arc scarcelv worth notice.
All the grandees of Spain, of whatever class ihey may be, are covered in presence of the
king, and have the title of excellence; when tliey pass the guard- room, a person in
waiting stamps on the ground, in order to gi^e notice to the centinel to port arms; in
tht se are comprehended all their prerogatives. ]Je\ ond this, they have no honorary dis-
tinction pertaining to their title. 'I'hc}- do nut form a bod}', as formerly the dukes and
peers of France. It seems as though the kings of Spain, unable to deprive this order of
its hereditary dignity, were desirous, in revenge, of keeping them in entire dependance,
* Certain ric^id republicans liavc looked upon, at li ast as supiilliioiis, the prcci ains^ and I'ollowinij
details. I reatiily grant their philosophy the right (ji'abnulc ol conlenipt, but it Is not lor them alouc
I write; to some oi' my readers they may be interesting : short would be tiie woiks that ^liould e(jn-
kdn those Ihinii;;* only with which every Itody would be pleased; the most famous i)ook.s cannot boast
so much. Of what value to merchants are tlie philosophical declam.aions of Raynal, which, however^
sn great measuie, made his fortune ? Of what value to sprii^s of fashion the calculations with which his
work is replete? In the immortal works of Monics'itiieu, deep thinkers look upon his epigrammatic
sallies as superfluous; whereas the ladies and their beaux would willingly dispense wul> hi-: Jearned
yjisse nation on the cstabUshineiU of ihc Frank*; in Gaul.
■IBHU
M I
BeURCOAKNE's rRAVET.S IN SPAIN.
tiicl subject to their caprice for nny a(kUtiot\al lustre. There is no place which is ox-
chivively iittuched to their rank, if wc except that of grand master, that of gniiid
ciiuerry, and th:it of suiniller de corps, which has some relation with the i)lace ol ^and
chan\lK riaiii, and the commission of captain of halherdies ; and these places, as well
as all the others, are conferred solely at the king's pleasure ; but there are several others
u hieh iniiillibly lead to the rank of grandee.
The band (jf gentlemen of the ehanibcr on duty is for die most part conriosed of
;:;;randees ; but there are also some persons of (juality, who, without the formci rank,
olHain this diirnitv. It is true, none of the latter are em!)loved immediately abr^utdic
jursf)!! of the sovereign, or the heir to the crown, and ihe queen and the princess of
\sturiasare sirved by none but grandees.
'J'he queen has other females of a less illustrious rank for iu-r internal service; tliesc
arc ladies of distinguished families, which, under the name of Carmeristos, act nearly in
the character of c.hamber-maids.
As to the grandees of either sex attached to the king's person, they are taken itidis
tinctly from either of the tiirec classes ; there are some whose extraction is froiii thc
inost ancient and illustrious families, and \vho I.K'longing to the two latter order-, but
^\ ho do not esteem themselves inllrior iquin that account. Philip V, who con!'. red
man}' titles of grandee, created not one of either of the second or third class. He cuu-
teiukd for a long time for the crown, as \\ell against internal as external enemies ; and,
Aviien he came into possession, lie looked up'on the favours he had to distribute as actual
ix wards for very signal F.erviees, either of a political or military nature ; and, doubtless,
thought he ought to proportion his gratitude to the importance of the ser\ ices rend . '\ -
or, i)ossibly, the haughtiness which he b>*ought with him from Versailles to Madrid,
made him fancy, that those ^\ ho had had the honour of being ser\ icealjle to him, md a
light to step at once into the most illustrious rank. Whatever were his motives, F*. rdi-
nand \ I, imitated his example ; but Charles III, has revived a distinction almost ianigi-
nary, which was I'alling into oblivion ; and, in the last promotions, created several gran-
dees of the second class.
'i'he}' do not all enjoy the privilege of being covered in the royal presence, except
w hen they are received for the first time, and when they accompany his majesty at any
ceremony. This honour does not, however, belong to them exclusively ; they enjoy it
in common with the nuncio, t!ie family, ambassadors, and some generals of orders, who
have the title of excellence as well, and as long as their dignity conthuies are by tlusc
two circumstances assimilated to the real grandees. Thus, there is not one single in-
vention oi human vanity which cowled humility disdains to sanctify by its adoption.
There are some titles of grandee that become txti»\ct at the death of the ixv^scssor,
and some obtain that honour lor themsthes and tluir descendants only. These bear
the title of excellence, but are not covered \n prchcnce of the king. A more marked
distinction in the diiferent classes nf grandee, a\Kl which is not founded upon law, but
more imperious custom, is that whi( h the grandees of ancient families establish between
diemselves and those of more modern or K ss illustrious extraction. The first speak to
I'aeh other in the singular number on all occasions, and whate\er may be the difi'erencc
in their ages, or the places they hold. I have more than once heard such young gran-
dees, who scarcely had tlie rank of colonel, speak in this apparently familiar manner to
the minister o<'war, who, at the time, happened to be u grandee of Spain. Had he been
ol less illustrious extraction, they w ould have given him respectfully die title of " your
Lxcelleiu ) ." They thou and iheexl him, because by birth he was on a level with them-
riclvcs. And an additional proof of that triv ial ax iom, extremes meet. A strong aversion
noi'Rf,o.\VNL 3 ru.wi:.'.. fv :a'.\i»v
J t»
lo every sort of (lislinf:tion, and a desire of cfjiialli/^iii;; every ililnf^;, cau-.t J th( hi inch t<-
adopt the same Imbit diirii).!,^ the Kevolution. In Spain, amon.i,' ihc clii-f i,'r.indees, ir
has become the most siiblile distinction that pride ean su.ui^f st. They have placed ii
in the summit of the inramid of nohiHty. lift these K>X'at pn\ilef^t(l persons arc not
nrodif^al of this honour;iI)le familiarity. In conver:^ation, in epistolary eorresjiondenc
with the greac, whom they do not deini their ecpiais, they ccninonionsly i^^ive and receiv<.
the title of exei Iknev. Nev.- |.';ran(k'.s of Spain solicit, as a fivoiir, tht honour of l)eint;'
thou andthee'd, and' sljould they at last obtain it, consider it :.s a triumph; the new p;ran.
dees solicit the honour of speaking to each o'her in the hingular mimber, as they noiild
do tlie favour of t!\e 'inw reign.
In the course of mv hrst residence in Spain, I saw \ strikini^ example of this. The
old duke of Losado,'vvlto was then sumilier du corps, and who, perhaps was the onl\
real friend of which Charles III, could boast, had aceompanied him in his yo\nh, when
he left Madrid to take jxissession ofthedutehy of ruiiia, and afterwards of the kingdom
of Naples. His extraction v. as from the inftrior nobility. In time, he was loaded whh
dignities and made a grandee. Coming back again to Madrid with the same prince;
on his accession to the throne of Spain, it w.is with great dilliculty. notwithstanding tlu
favour he enjoyed, that he, at U ngth, uttaiuul the distinction of being spoke to in the
singularnumbrrby the individuals of the ancient race. The king hin\seli, in order to
procure his niitiut on to this privilege, interposing in his behalf, not l)y using his autho
rity, for that would havi bten uieiUetual, but by entreaty and solicitation. On other
occasions, this .amiliarity is sometimes spont.aneousl\ granted by ih.e most tUstinguished
grandees to branches ofsome illustrious houses, who have not yet obtained the title, and
who, thinking tlu _> have well-founded pre tensions to sucli an honour, arc distinguished by
the name of'casas aggrax iadas — injured lamilies. On the other liand, the sovereign and
his lamily treat all their subjects, w ho are al)out the ir persons, or approach them, with
familiarity ; Uiis is at once a testimony of benevolence and superiority. All distinction
is lost before them ; ai\d all Spaniards of whatsoever class, station, age, or sex, whether
grandeis, magistrates, prelates, or married women, \oung or old, arc indiscriminately
iiddre^cd in the singular number ; and \vould anticipate disgrace if, in addressing then,
the roval family should decorate them with those honorary titles of which otherwise
they arc so jealous.
The title of grandee, when hereditary, is so in both males and females, unless the pa-
tent iormally expresses the contrary. There arc many houses in Spain that, by mar-
riages w^ith heiresses to this title, have ten or tw-eh c hats ; which is the vulgar term to
denote the dignity of grandee of Spain. But the head of these houses iias not the
power of distributing the hats amtsig his children. The right of primogeniture is esta-
blished. There are but few families, in which the second son has a title and grandec-
shipinhisown right. All the eldest sop.s of grandees receive by anticipation, the title
of excellence, but not their brothers; they simply bear the name of their family,
preccdtd by that they receive in baptism, much in the same manner as in England, where
the broUier of lord Chatham is called Wiisiam Pitt ; Uic brother of lord Holland Charies
Fox.
'I'his distinction must not be lost sight of by a stranger, who doe» not wish to bode-
reived by the vain words count and mar(jUi**> f here are many grandees of Spain who
have no other title. There is no BRwrk ol eMruordiujry distinction in that of duke. It
is given according to the pleasure oi W- sovereign, whei he confers the title of graudec,
even to the secontl ckiss, of which there ai* iccciit examples ; the patent alone is a iiitlf
mori expensive.
VOL. V. V V
\BimMjt^imi>!^»si^tB3ii
Jlo
«ioCRfJOANNr.*T rrAvti.'? IN sr.M.v
The tiUc oi prince Inlonprd hU.KTto exclusively to the heir of the moiiaichy. All
those who \\'ere dccor.ited the ixw ith at the court of Sj)aiii uere foreigm rs. The duk.'
dc hi Alcucli;!, who, on urcouni ol' the sif^natiin: ol' the treaty ol' pe;iee !)etuceM Franc?
and Spain, was called I'l Princi|)e de la I'as, i-, the lirsi instance ol' a kin;^- ol' Spain !Lj;raMt
ini^ that title. Is it the iniporlance of the service rendend to his ronntty npon this or
easion, which cani'd him this exception ? or, is Jhvour, when at its heisxlit, always secur>'
)f it in s])iie of laws and cnstoni ?
I'ornierly there was a sort of hierarchy in the order of titled nobility. The IjaroiH
(Which are not to he conlbinuled w ilh the ancient Varrones) which were met with, and
are still foinid in Arra}.7)n, were of the lowest class ; to these succeeded \iscounts ; then
roinits, and last and chiel' were miuqnises. Formerly it was re(piisite to he a viscount
before a person could become a marfpiis, according to d)c order of the title of Castile.
But all these distinctions have now been done away w iUi ; and simple plebeians in this
century, w lihout an}' inlermcdiary step, have been raised to tlie rank of count and mar-
(juis. lint much is Avantini;- of all those being grandees of Sp^iin who are invested
with these dignities. Most of them are no more than what arc called titnlos, or titles of
Castile. These titles pro\e not an illustrious race, but the favour of the sovereign, com-
monly die reward of some important service, 'i'lie king generally grunts to him whom
he thus honours, the liberty either of applying his title to one of his estates, or to his
family name; sometimes even he adds a denomination which denotes the service he
wishes to recompense. Tlnis under Philip \', admiral Navarro, who commanded the
Spanish scpiadron at the battle of Toulon, n ceived, gratuitously enough, the title of
marcjuis de la \'itloria ; he, who in 1759, escorted Charles III, from Naples to Barce-
lona, that of marcjuis del Real Transporle ; and more recently, during the last reign,
flic minister of thelnrlics took Uiat of marquis de la Sonora, from the name of .1 colony
ill the neighbourhotid of the \'crmillion Sea, whicli his Ecal and talcnis had accp'ited to
his country by peopling and improving it, and by freeing the whole settlement from
die incursions of the savages; and thus a magistrate named Caraseo received the title of
mar(|uis de la Corona, as a recompense lor services rendered the crown in reclaiming
certain property in land, of which it had been unjustly dispossessed ; thus some gran-
dees of Spain add to their titles such names as call to mind any glorious or important
transaction in which they lia\(' figured. The duke de Crillon, following this mcdiod,
after taking the fortress of Mahon, preser\ed the remembrance of it by adding that
name to his own : and the prince of the Peace owes, as we have before mentioned, this
title to the most imi)orlant, and jiossibly the most fortunate circumstance of his admin-
istration. These titles have somewhat of grandeur, somewhat Hom in in their object ;
and, if they depend in measure \ipon the caprice of fortune, the\ are much less de-
pendant on I'avour than the rest.
The titles of Castile give to those who bear them, and to tiuir wives, the qualification
of lordship, Vueslra Senoria, by contraction spoken Ussia. The refusal of this in mat-
ters of ceremony carries with it amortilicati(>n ; but the gieater part are too reasonable
to require, or even suffer it from tht ir ecpials, in the ordinary intercourse of society ;
ihough their inferiors bestow tliis honour upon them very lavishly. There are every
uherc flatterers, as well as persons who love to be flatteted. But diose who are more
particularly exact in rendering them their due in this rispect, arc svich as have aright
to the title of excellency in return, and delight in the gratifying distinction.
There is a title between diis and lordship ; that of L'Nsia Illustrissima (most illustrious
lordship) which is given to archbishops, bishops, the princijvtl memUrs of the council
of the Indies (callecl Camaristas) and to the president of the two supreme tribunals, call-
ed the Chanceries.
ri.n'ucoANN'i.
lll/\tj;i IN SPAIN.
47
Tlic dignity of grimtkf, ;ts well ;is tlsc titlis of in:irf|iiis and count ol Castile are nor
Qiily uiiaccoiiiiniiiicd with any ixcuniary advantage-, but an; nut even bestowed gratis
Those who obtain (hem, uiiUss lonnally dispensed Ironi it, pay a duty which has been
received ever since the reign ofCluirks V', known by the appellation oI'Dcmi-Annatey.
The grandees pay about twenty. live thousand livres (l,Ot()I.) Tiiis duty is paid a>
often as the title tlescends, and is more or less, according to the great< r or less distancr
between him who inherits it, and the person from whom it is derived. Besides thediitv
on taking up the title, d)e grandees ai\nnally pay anoUier under th(; name of lanzas
This is the remains and faint image of the military service, which the great vassals of thi
crown formerly performed, by furnishing a ceilain nnmbi r of spears. Foreigners, >v!k
arc grandees of Spain, are exem[)t.
According to an arranj^ement niulually agreed to belueen tiie coiuts of Madrid and
Versailles, sine the same family has been in possession of the two thr<;nes, the grandees
of Spain ranked with the dukes and peers of 1' ranee. This acknowledgment ol' (.quality
was not obtained without much opposition on the part of tlie i'ormer. When the ques-
tion was agitated at the beginning of the reign of I*hilip \', the duke of Arcos, in the
name of the grandees, ren^onstrated against it to that luonarj-h in the strongest terms.
He asserted, that the grandees could not but be greatly siirpriseil and olVended at Itnding
themselves considered as on a level with the peers of France. At their own court, said.
the duke, thcgrandves see no one between them and the thn^ne, but the sons of their
sovereign, Mhilst the peers of France must give place, first to the i)rinces of the blood,
next to the legitimated princes, and lastly even to f()rei!;-n (Mie«, not only to those of Itah
and Germany, but also to those who, although descended from royal families, holdjjla
ces in the ser\iceof the king of France, sucli as the dukes (jfLuraine, de Bouillon, and
others.
On the opposite side, the grandees in Spain constituted llic llr.it order of subject;*
immediately after the royal family. He gave iuitances of kings of Spj.in, and even of
cn^perors, who had treated them as cfjuals with the princes of Italy and Clermany, and
proved that the grandees had always enjoyed the same honours as tlie priuccb descended
from sovereigns, when they were not royal ; that, wIkw the comts of France and Spain
had named representatives, those of France were princes of the blood, and those of Spain
grandees ; without the least difterencc being made in the respect and honours paid to
each. From all these pr'oofs the duke concluded, that the dignity of grandee of Spain
corresponded with that of the princes of the Ijlood iu France, and not w ilh that of the
peers.
These arguments were but ill received by Fhili[), who iiad contracted at the court of
his grandfather a taste for despotism. The answer he returned to the duke was, that he
would do well to go and signalize his zeal with the army in Flanders. This order was
obeyed, and the duke, on his return through Paris, was the fn-st v.ho desisted from the
pretensions of which he had been the advocate. He made the lirst v isit to the j)rinces of
the blood, gave them the title ot highness, w ithout rect i\ ing the sanie, and addressed the
dukes and peers by the title of e.xeellenee, without rcfpiiring more in return ; thus the
cause of the grandees was lost forever.
'J'lieir nunil)er r;;pitlly incrcuscd; their dignity was granted to several foreign noblc-
7n,en ; and, a j ail tilings are diminisiied in value by being muUiplied, the grandees have
become accuslonnd, by degrees, to see themselves considered as on a level with the
dukes and purs o( Franc. We are not to supjj'jse, hovve\er, thdt the grandees of
Spain, who deii\e their dignity from the ivign of Char-les V, do not think themselves
superior to otiiers, as in Germany the princes of ancient lUmilies esteem themselves more
348
BOUIU.OANNE n IKAVr.t.:i in Cl'AIV.
iioblc thaiuhosc ulio were crtattd l)v I'trdliKind If, and his succi ssors ; hut thisdiflu
nnci', so fl;itliriii{^ to viinily in stent, viiiiislu s lioni IkIou' tlu' cus of the nation, and
tsjK'cially I'roni those ol'tlu' sovtrcign.
'I'lu s ■ i!jr;ui(k(.s, posst SM d oF hi};h notions of their own dii^mity, in other respects arc
cxtrtm* ')lcand ohliiijin;^. 'I'hiy arc voidf)rthit n.piil.^ive pridi' aitriljuti (I to them
in J''.iir(), lany ofthiin substitute a f^entleiu's of manners and [goodness of hiarf,
instead (»» , ..a haughty and forhiddiujj; dinnity, common to the noblemen ol'otherroun-
tries. Not but that tluy possi ss, if ncjt a motive, tit least an excuse loi airs of pride, in
hijjjh employnunts, illustrious biilh, and immensi; lortiii\es. Indi ed w ith respect to the
latter, they are superior to those of the most oj)iilent at the court of France, even before
llie KevoUition.
Except liiose of the princes of the blood, tlKTc were no fortunes at Versailles to bt
tompared to those of the duke of Medina Celi, the duke of Alba, the duke D'Ossuna,
the coimt Altamira, or the duke of Infsiiiado. But their appearance seldom corresponds
with their fortime. They do not ruin themselves as in Krance, ii\ country boxes, cii
tcrtainments and Knglish f^ardens, and as to the luxm-y of splendid furnitures, it is
uiiknown : their pomp is more obse.ure, but perhajjs not less expensive. Numerous
sets of mides, rich liveries which arc disj)layed but three or four times a year, and a
multitude of servants, are their principal articles of ( xpenre. The manafjjement of their
estates is also \ cry costly to them. They have stewards, treasurers, and various f)fli-
ccrs, like petty so^ ereigns. They keep in their pay, not only the servants j>Town old in
their service, but those even of their fathers, and the families whence they inJierit, and
even provide for the sid)sistenec of their relations. The duke of Arcos, who died in
1780, maintained thus three thousand persons. This magnificence which disguises
itself under the veil of charity, appears to have more than one inconvenience ; it encoura-
ges idleness and causes waste and extravagance, which, while dependants are thus mul-
tiplied, must escape the most careful vigilance. Notwithstaiuliii^ a!!, liiis, there are
fewer great families ruined in Spain than in moh* other countriei;. Tiic simplicity of
ihcir manners, their little taste for habitual ostenta'ion, and the scarcity of stmiptuous
entertainments, are great safeguards of their foi tunes. But when desirous of imitating
the example of those of other courts, their splendour is equal to that of the niost brilliant.
This may be judged of i)y the appearance some have made in foreign countries when the
dignity of their nation reijuired a display of magnificence.
The\- have hitherto iiuleed l)ut little trod the ixiths of ambition. At tlic beginning
jf the present century, when divided between the t\\ o pnuecs who aspired to the throne,
iheir passions being roused, they made efforts and disj)layed talents, v.hich were not al-
wayseniployed in that course which success determined to be the best, !)Ut which proved
that the latter reigns of the princes of the house of Austria had not benumbed their fa-
culties. A kind of supineness which has continued half a century, has sue :eeded to this
fermentation; but in the reign of Charles III, they shook it ott, and proved tliat the
most distinguished svibjcets in a nation are not always the most useless. They embra-
ced with eagerness the profession of arms, which in fact ofi'ered inn few temptations,
and whicii in Spain is more full of constraint for coiu'tiers than it was in Fnnce.
At this moment, among eighty lieutenants general wliieh there arc, are twenty gran-
dees; and general coimt de !a Union, who alter several defeats perisln d giuriously on
the field of battle, fighting against us, was one of their order. In the political depart-
ment they had in the time ol Charles III, more than one distinguished statesman to boast
of, a count D Aranda, yet regretted; count Fernan Nunez, whom death ravished at the
instant he was about to retain aniougus ; a duke de Villahcrmosa, Sec. &e,
U&UnCOANNK £ TH.'Vr.Ln IN sr.M.v.
.uo
en
Some yens past the (InkiD'Ossuiia was iioiniiuitcd ambassador to tin court of Vifri.
iia, and iIk- dnkc iKl I'.n^'iit to IVt(rsl»ur^, hut did wii jiroco'd to their (Kstitiatious :
at I ) IT stilt no more tlumthi.sc jri-andics arc employed htyoiid du frontitrs; tUc count do
Campo AlaiiJ^o, as anihassadorat Lisbon; tlu prince of Castel Franco at \'iennii, ,\\)d tlie
iliike de Trias at London ; the lirsl of these howevir, \\\s been elevated to the grandee-
ship but lately, and the second is aN(apnlit;in nolilt man.*
N(jne are hou iver occupied u iih any cli|)lomaiic mission at this instant, a circimistance
which has not happened lu lore since the l)e|^innin(j of the last century, as up to the
period of the Kevoiution Spain w.is coiislaiiily represented at Versailles i>y a {grandee.
It appears for a long lime back to luive bet ii the secret practice of this court never to
grant situations to her grandees ulii( h might put my great power in their hands, and
from this practice she !ias swerved only u|)on very particular occasions. For example it
has scarcely ever ha[)pened that one ol' those Anurican vice-royaliiis which for pomp,
homage, and authority, are on a jiar with real sovereignties for tiie time, and equal by
the means whether legal or illigal, of acfjuiring uealtli to the most lucrative ollices of
the revenue ; it has, I say, scarcely ever happened that an appointment of tliis importance
hiiscver bc( n confided to a grandee ; either on account of the jealousy iA the monarcii
who may dread so great an accumulation of title in one person, or because he would see
with regret the absence of any, whose presence added brilliancy to th( splendour of his
throne.
The body of the grandees furnishes at present but few members to the < hurch, the
dignities of which are not, as in many other eath'>Jic kingdoms of Kurope, engrossi d by
ti few individuals of the jjrincjpal nobilitj . The only dignily with ^vhich any of tltcni
is at present invested, is tliaf of p<ililii/i h of the Indii s, who at the (oiirtof Spain per
ibrnis the functions of grand almoner. I ||i wjio lioh'.s this place is constantly in wait
ing near tjie pt rson of the sovereign. No (;(li( / kMHidees, except those in actual service,
are near the m<jnarcli; the remainder have their fixed n sidence at Madrid, wheiii e they
are alj.scnt but for a short time lo pay flu ||- cotirf. A few reside in the capitals of the
provinces , but
lor a snort tune lo my flu j|
I know none who jiiibilH 'H
()f Krandec is not dihil/;/;
I It
,M|( nU O^i'" estates.
The dignity ()f f^randec js not cjisil/;/; ' ! ii\ any exterior insignia. Those of its
order who are gtniiemt || iij ijii ^ha^lbet• wtyU (| golden key the .same as the rest. There
arc six orders of knightliood In Hjiaj/i, b] «)m' « lf/< orfl< rof Malta ; but n(;t one to uhich
the grandees have a!i i Kijiifiivc right, 'i'lit |/||)M '!) ' '" d is the order of the golden
fleece, founded by Pliiiip the < ■■r.ni liilr liji liii, ..>,,»{• inch the court of\'icnnii
continuts to conler in coneuneiice tt|l|j l|i. I ,|lHd, allliongh the former had re-
nounced tills j»rerog.ilive, !iy tlu treaty wli). I. ..iminated the gre.it quarrel between
Philip V, and the ai( lidiik( . 'J'lit ii(||)ib( r o| kniglits of the golden fleece is very limit-
ed in Spain. In no otiur order (j| tiiff/pi lias the pride of nobility Ixcn more scru-
pulous; it IS onlv liitely thai this (leeorallbii jias been granted to some ministers of state
who were notol'an illuslijoiis family.
There an also four othir miliiaiy orders, founded at the time of the crusade:;; and
since the time ol I'trdinand tlu Catliolji , the king has been grand master of them all.
They are thob.e of SantiagCi, ('alatrava, Monteza, and Alcantara. The three first are
distinguished by a red rJbbwn, imd the last by a green one. Tliese four orders iusvc
•Up to tlif period of tl.c Hcvnliaion, the <iiil);issy to France wiib always filled l.)y a grandee who
Vasgtiaiiiiiy ..iliuiiud into ilie<.i!!i r ol'ilie Holy Cihost.
t The piiti i.ii ihate of tin liulu- .lul fijr.uid iilmonership of the court has been vested for some year*
in raidiii.il SiniiiKinai, a di iciiid.idt of that maiqviis de Casud'dos Rios anjbassadoi' at the court af
l-ouib XIV. at ilie time of tlic arrival of the will of Charles 11, the lirsl ijrandce created by Philip V.
IjO
DOUncOANNE S TKAVtl.S IN ai'AlN.
coinmnndtrics, u liirh iirr conferred by the king. Sunt la^^o has ciKlity.scvcn, the richest
of uhich is irckoiud to he worth 200,000 rials a year ; Calatrava filiy-five, one of which
Is vaUicd at 338,000 rials annually. Montoza has but thirteen and Alcantar i thirty-
Heven, the cominanderies of the two latter orders arc the least considerable of thf; whole.
They were lor a loni^ time m\ en to every class of persons, provided they coidU bring the
nqnisite proofs. Cluirles III, recalled iheni to the spirit of their first institution, and
restricted the grant of them to military men. Upon this an honourable distinction for the
rest of tlu' subjects was wanting. This he supplied in 1771 by creating a fifth order,
which lj(.ars his name, and is dedicated to the conecpiion of the \ irgin. It is composed
oi two classes; tliiit of the great crosses and simple knights. The great crosses wear
the great ribbon of the order, sky-l)hic, eilged with white. On days of ceremony they
are elothcil in a long mantle of these two cohnirs, and wear a collar upon which arc
alternatively displajid the arms of Castile and the king's cypher.
The number of the great crosses should be limiti d to sixty, according to the statutes
of the order; it consists at present of eighty-three including the princes of the royal fa-
mily and some foreigners. When the order was first established the menibers were
chosen from amons< the grandees, except two i)f the great otHcers, of the order. A short
time afterwards the king made an exception to this rule, in favour of his marine minis-
ter, the marcpiis of C'astejoii. This exception was afterwards extended : though the
ordtris still conrmed to the most eminent personages of the kingdom, such as the min-
isttrsand some general ollieers, distinguished eitner by their zeal or services,
The simple knights were two hundred in number, each injoying a pension of four
diousand rials (about forty pounds.) A fewy ears since the king bestowed this lesser
order uj)on some persons in i'ranee, not included in the two hundred. On their a ount
they departed Iroin the statute which rendered this order incompatible with all ui.iers,
by permitting it to be associated with theenjssof St. Louis.
In addition to the orders lor men, the rpietn in 1792 instituted one which bears her
name Maria Louisa in favour of the lair sex ; it consists of sixty ladies, principally
grandees. In the selection of its first members favour alone appears to have predomi-
nated.
Proofs of nobility arc necessary to qualify for the small order of Charles HI, as well
ns the fijur military ones ; but from the fiiciliiy with which it is obtained one is led to
doubt this ; although no great efforts of intrigue are requisite to elude this law ; as no-
bility in most of tlie provinces of Spain, is not difficult fo establish. And it is sulHcient
that he who aspires to this distinction prove himself, and his ancestors, to have livect
nobly, without having exercised any of the small number ol professions, which law and
prejudice declare to be vile ; he is then reputed a gentiemaji by descent ; hidalgo ; for
in Sjjain nobility by creation is unknown. Some humourists have observed, that there
are whole province s of which all the inhabitants arc gentlemen ; nor is this any great
exaggeration. Philip V, ennobled all the Biscayans. All the Asturians are believed to
be descended from the ancient Goths, who took refuge in the mountains of Asturia, and
were never sul)jected by the Moors, and are reputed noble on account of this honoura-
ble origiii. But there cannot be a more glaring absurdity than to imagine that two or
three hundred thousand men who settled some centuries ago in a small province, are all
noble in the strict meaning of the word. If all men were of the same heiglu, the words
giant and dwarf would be obliterated from the dictionary. Nobility necessarily sup-
poses a more numerous class, who are less noble, not it is true of that description, con-
demned in some places by absurd laws to a species of abasement, but obscure inha-
bitants inferior to a small member iit credit and consideration. Thus, in fact, there- are
iJOt/ni.O^NN b S fHAVEI.;« IN UlAIN
J5l
Ilk Histaj- niwl Astiiii;i, as in titlicr parts of I'.iiropc, (li^tin^<ll^^lll•d^;^n\llus, iii thcopinioit
of the pul)li( , who luivf nude a y:riat i\^\.in- in ilw; tlistrict in wliith Jiuy rcsi<lc, liiliLi
l>y tlitir opulence, or the plaee''* they have he id; and whatever may he the preteiisioin
ol" oI)triire i>ei}»;hhi)iiriiii( lainilies, the I'oniier aHlel a pre-«.inii\eiicc, uhieh ihesi ae-
kriouiedR^v! by their bouuij^e ; tliiii, however, prevents not the latter liom cherishiii}i'
ideas of grandeur, uhn h preserve m their mind a noble pride undoubtedly prekrable
tu the eliimerical noljility of blood : so that if by some I'ortiinate eireunistance they ol)-
tain some employmeiU less obscure diait their bifth, they consider that they have only
regiiined their proper Mlallon, and are less insolent and vuiii thtui most upstarts in other
cuuiuricH.
I have more tlianoncc remarked this iliatJtiRnishin}:^ eliaraeterisiic, even in the lowest
ranks of the Asturians and the Hisi .lyatis. 'I'hey have, io their appearance, something
more haughty, and are much less liumble in tin ir submissit/ii. They are not awed either
by titles or riches. A man m place is in their eyes a Ibrlunateman, who obtains a i)ri'/i;
in the royul lottery, m which they all have a titke,, and may win in tluir turn; and
this prejudice, lidicidous as it may se( in, keeps them ^n their guanl against meanness,
and even against degrading crimes, This reflection is more or less applicable to all the
other provinces of Spain, where hidalgos arc more nunuroits, and where the members
of the third class (pecturos) are distinguisiied from them by no humiliating subjection;
so that noliility here excites less envy, and a desire of throwing off its yoke would less
easily than in other places act as an incentive to general insurrection.
Notwithstanding those iiiipereeptiblc gradations, which i;i Spain separate nobility
from the iniirior ranks, the proofs re(juired in certain cases are closely examined; but
there, as vv( U as in otlier countries, money and interest procure genealogists who arc
not over se ipulous. A relleciion, ipplicaljle to every nation, may be made with re-
spect to the 1, )bility of Spain, which ;>5, that the less a monarch is limited, the more ar-
bitrary are these distineiions, and the nore irregu'ar the gradations. Despots, even
those the least tyrann/e.al. prefer or neglect their subjects according to their caprices.
Unlimited monarehs exereis*; this kind of influence in a greater or less ilegree ; and there
are few stages in which the suV-TcigiiautlKjiii} is loss circuinscril)ed than in Spain.
Under tl»e ancient form of govt > unentit was more confined; but it has changed by
degrees, and without exciiing eoni motion. The intermediate ranks scarcely exist in
name. The supreme councils, pariieuLirly th.it of Castile, which is the chief, have fre-
tpiently tendered I cmoiiStrunce-v, where ihey lui\ e' apprehended that the measures of the
crown would be disastrous, or have deemed them in opposition to the law s ; but all the
members of the comicilsare nominated by the king, and may be displaced at pleasure.
I', is from him alone that lh< \ look for advancement in the civil career ; and as the inscrip-
lion of the royal orders, which relate to their difRreui departments, is made in Uieir dif-
ferent registers without any legal power of avoiding it on thei lart, being in fact a mere
iiK-Vicrof form; it does not appear that they possess even thai , ower which was vested
in the ancient parliamcius of France, of tacitly resisting the will i>( the sovereign.
CHAPTER V.
REMAINS OF THE CORTES. COL'NC IL OF STATE. STRICTURES ON Mil. d'aRANDA, MR. f I.ORIDA BLAN-
CA, AND HIE VUESENT MINISIERS. OFFICES,
^ THE Cortes was the only dam which couKl arrest the progress of despotism. The
history of Spain sulliciently proves how great an intluence this speei s ol states general
had in the most important aliairs of government ; but for a long time past, they havi"
152
Hf>l'Ur.oANV|,'.i IKAV?.!,;; i .v JI»AIN
not Ix'ii iNsrmMul, (\Tipt for the sale of form , mid tlv sovi rci^iv., uithn\i! violcurr,
wIlhoMt fbnuMlly rr|n tint; tin irinti rvtnlion, li;iu' tnniid im;iiis toiUuIr tin ir iiiiilioiit)-.
They n n<l( r tlum however an liomn^i' in nux k<ry, \\\h\\ tiny promul^jaU' orvlin.mciH
IVom the throne iiiKhr the iiiiint- ol" ()r;ip;matie, tlu pn ambits ol wIikIi state tint they
r'laiin the sanu' r(spnt as if tlu \ had lm.ii piiMishid in the ;\ss< nd)l) ol ihi- (Dries;
which are lu ver ci^iivMlxt lU xei pt at the art'esiion ol a new sov< n i^n to tin throne, to ad-
minister to him an oath in the name of ll>e nation, anil swear luleliiy. On thisoeeasiun,
h tt( rs ofeonvoeation ari- smt to all the j^'randeis, to all tith d persons«»l (" iitile, t«)all tlu
prelates, and to exiry eit\ whnh has a ri};ht to sii\d (Upnlies to the (.'mIi ■„ 'i'he two
lirst classes n present tlK'nnbilii) ; the priests, the l>ody ol the (;Urgy,andihe cities which
depnt<' (IK <i| thi ir tnaj^istrates, reprisent the people.
Tim- last tiint- that the Cortes was assetiiMid ^^as in ITS'), at the coronation of thr
rei;j;niiij.!; sovirii^;n. Itssission was continued fur three inondis, the eonnl tie Campo
mam H acting; as presiiUnt, who on this oeeasion received the title ol |;overnor ol the
ro\nicil ojCastilc, the Innctioiis o| which otlice he had exicreised alone lor several yiars
hi fore. 'I'he C'orti s win- eomposid (jf at most a hnndred pi rsons ; lor it is not every
province of Spain that sends dipnties to them, (laliicia has her own separate. Tlial
part ol' Old C istile known l)\ the name ol Montanas de Sant Andcr, is repreHcnled by
til' city ol iJnrji;os, whi< h disputes the preeitle iiey, at the assembly of tlu' Cories, wiilj
'I'dlido, Na\ane', the lordship of liiscay, anet Cinrpnscoa, have their partie-nlar slates,
and these dilVerent provinces take an oath to the new sovereign bj mean-i ol depiilieo,
which I'or that pnrpe)se they dispatch te) eeinrt.
This national assembly, he)W e \ e r unshapen, and inconiplete' it be, at e)ne instant seemed
to leel its aullie)riiy, and was on the point ol' manil'estin}^ it. Alreaely hati se)nie' intrepid
orators prejiare (I ihenisebts to express their t^rievanees, and le) |)oini out the most into-
lerable; (it nii,L;lit have been the sii^iial of a reAf)lniie)n ;) when the eonri antieipated the
inteinion, as if ii I'ejresaw what was ai)e)nt le) happen in France ; and civilly disndssed the
C'e)rtes, whe) patiently dis|)erse el.
Kxcept these convocatie)ns, of which there have been but three in the present century,
iind wliich e)nly f^ave room l'e)r vain l'e)rmalilies, re'ce)llietie)n, and re)j;ret ihe C'eirtes ofthe
w!ie)le kin}^(le)m ha\e nejl been asse-inbled since ITI.j, when I'hilip V, ce)nvoke(l them to
j^ive their apprejbiiliejn lo ihe pragmatic sanction, uhie;h e;hanj^ed the eirder of siiccessiuti
to the throne.
It is well kne)wti tiiat by a law, of whieh it wonld be as diflienlt |)erhaps to indicate
the real ori}^in, as that of ejnr pretended Salic law, Avomen asceiuledthe Spanish thre)nc
in case of pre)ximily of ble)od. This mode of succession is known under the desi^^nalion
of C'astiliaro or Coi^iiate), in opjiosilion to that called Afi;nato, whie-h excludes females en-
tirely. I'hilip V, bein}^ desirous of assiinilaiinj^ in measure the course of succession iij
•Spain, with that of the cejuntry u hicli t;a\ e him birth, in spite of his jjredilection l'e)r de-
spe)tic resolutions, conce ived it wonld be wise to obtain the consent of the Cortes towards
'.yanclionini^ this resolution. He was in possessie)n of j^reat anthe)rity ; in a twelve years'
war he had eH'ected the subju.^ation '>! his kiniijdcjn) ; he saw all Spain uneeiually divided
between sidijects de vejled to him, who could have no motive for resistance lo his will,
and discontented buljjects that he liad etVectually curbed. He relied therefore upon the
docility ol the Cortes, and wa;i not dis.ij)pejinlv.d. They acknowledged, and adeiptecl the
new order of succession, which calls to the throne the male heirs, to the exclusion of the
female, however near the consanguinity ; who canned accede to it, but in case of the total
absence of any male descendc.nt from the reigning family. 'I'here is however something
more absolute llum the authority e)f the most (lesj)oiic munarelis ; 1 mciin public opiniyn.
II
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353
and il.-' iii<Klil)ic prcdikctidn o{' ;i |)cr,|;U: to its imc'nwt laws and customs. An attach-
imnt to the old modf of sikxlss'k.ii still rxists in the hci.rts of thf.- greater part of tht:
Spanish nation, and it is niore than |)i<)l)ablc, il" once a qnestion were to arise which mit^ht
have to be de( id- d either aeeorihnjj; to this ancient law, or die i)ra!j;niatic sanction of 1713,
it\voidd not I)e dcurniined in a pe'iceahlc manner. Ilaj^ijily for Spain this possible posi
tion is not liLely soon to oeenr, since anion;^' the six children of his majesty there ar;.'
three males. In ^h<.: time of-niy fust visit to Spain, there was a period wlien this deli
rate question without bein;;- considered an idle one, was much inuicr discussion; this
was, when die present kira;, then prince of Asluriiis, saw n)osl of his male children lall
otT in their ir.i'auv, and \vas threatened with havinu: no proi;eny but what wcrf.; iemai!.-
In case of the realii^aiion of this apprehension, the Castilian order of surncssion would
have nominated to the throne the eldest of the Infantas, while the pra.^matic re.^ndation
of 1713 would have pointed to one ol die two brothers of the kinpr, or their male dc-
sccndanls, and Europe mii^lit af^-aiu liave been ensanj^aiined for the purpose of decidin}.'^
the dispute. ... m
But let us return to die Cortes, and sec what remains of dieir authority, i ney are
btill consulted, for the sake of form, in certain cases, when for example it is in a(,ntation
to o-rant letters of naturalization to a stran!i;er, but then the members of which they are
composed correspond with each odier, without assemblino-, A faint image of them,
however, remains in an assembl}-, which constantly resides at Madrid, under the name oi
Diputados de los lleynos (depu'ties of the kins^doms.) At their breaking up in 1713, ii
was regulated, that they should be represented by a permanent committee, whose office it
should be to watch over the adminisUalion of that part oi' theta\es, known by the name
of Millones, and which had been granted in the reign of I'liilij) II, with the formal con
hcntof die Cortes, upon certain condilioiu-, wliiclulie monarch swore to ol^serve, and to
watch the performance of whit;h the committee of Diputados was appointed. The Cor
tcs also authorised it to superintend the disposal of the Miilones. lint in the \car 1718.
the Cardinal Albcroni, xnIiosc ardent and imperious mind disdained all restraint, trafis-
ferred it to the hands of the sovereign. From that time tl\e coniniiltee held no more oi
die state revenues thantli'- small portion necessary to pay the salaries and deiray thce::-
pcnces of die members. These are eight in number, and are chosen in the following
manntr:
But f»r.it it will be proper to observe, that tlie division of Spain into kingdoms and
provinces, such as Gallicia, the Asturias, the kingdom of Leon, the kingdom of Va-
Icntia, Andalusia, &;.c. as described in maps and geographical treatises made out of llic
peninsula, are scarcely known in practice. Spain presents as ^tra!lge and even a more
complicated medley, than what I'raucc did jaxviously to the Uvvoluiif^n.
The three provinces of Bi.scay, Navarre under the title of kingdom, and the Astnria:^.
as a principality, form separate "states uliich are without custoni-hou>,es, iiUendants and
almost e\er\ thing ixrlaining to fiscal sw ay. I'he rest of tlie monarch}-, subject to its au-
thority is di\iiled iiuo twenty-two pro^•lnces belonging to the cronii ot Castile, and
four belonging to that of Arragon. These twent} -six [)rovinecs diiilr materially in ex-
tent ; for cxanii)le, all Catalonia which pertains to Airagon forms but one pro\incc,
while in Castile some are no more than three or four leagues scpua e ; each has its sepa-
rate intendant, and ma}- be compared to our generalities.
The tweiitv-two provinces of the crown of Ca 'ile are the kingdom of G illicia, the
^iroviuces ofBurgos, Leon, Zamora, Salamanca. Kstramadura, Puleiicia, \.Ji.idolid, Se-
govia, A\i!as, Toro, Toledo, La Mancha, Murcia, Guudalaxara,^ Cueiica, Soria, Ma-
drid, and lastly Andalusia, w hieh comprises lour provinces stiil designated as kingdoms;
'.■ 0 I. • V . -' ''^
354
HOlMtOAN'NT''. iUVVr.l.:; TN' STAIN.
a name wh'uh tlu-y bore in tlie linic of lie govninncut of the Moors, that ih to say, St .
villc, Cordova, Jain, and (in natl I. , ,. , r ^ .1 .» »
'1 lu; four provinces of tlu' irown of Arra^on, im; the kniKdom of Arragrjn, that ot
S'alincia, the nruicipalitv of Cat;.louia, and the kingdom of Majorca.
This isnotthconlv division In a trrcatmany. Spain is diviiUd mtotlnrUrn militarv
governments, twelve' of v.hieh have ehiefN who l).ar the title ol captanis K^iural ot
provinces; the connnandant of Navarre alone havin- that of viceroy. It is moreover
divided into diocesis, which have ditkrcnt hounihaies to what the provinces have ; and
into iusticiarv partitions wliich we shall notice as we proceed.
But tlie principal of all these divisions, notwilhstandino- n does not eoinpnsc the
whole monarehv, that which the greater part of the acts of KONcnnnent are to hava^etfect
upon, is the division \diich partitions Spain into tlie provinces oi the crown oi Lastile,
luid those (jf the crown (^f Arragon. 'I'wo parts of the monarchy w inch diHer Irom each
oUur as well with respect to the administration, as the species and collection ol taxes;
a distinction which had its origin at the time when Castile and Arrogan were united b>
the marriage of Isabella and Ferdinand the Catholic.
Losdii)iitados le los Re^nos, weak remnants of the Cortes, are (^hoscn according to
this division. All the provinces of Castile unite to name six ; Catalonia and Majorca one;
■.md the regencies of Valencia and Arragon elect the eighth. These dcpnties sit but ior
six years, 'at the end of which a new nomination takts place. As a relict ol Uieir an_
< lent rights, ihvx still retain the privilege cf being, by virtue of their places, members ot
the council of linancc, l)V which the sovereign communicates to the nation the necessity
of levving anv new tax I and the ajMUobation tluy are supposed to give to the royal will
is a sliadow of that consent of the Cortes, \\ithout which ta.xes could not iormerlv be
u.'.rnuntul. Hutitiseasv to perceive how ieeble this rampart ol hl)erty must be, which
isSilv formed of a small mnnber of ciii'/.ens, who possess but little real jiower, are under
the controulof government from which thty exptct favours and preferments, and who,
after all, represent onlv a i)art of the nation. ...
The i)ro\inces of liiscav and Xavarre, which hold assemblies and have particular pri.
.lieges, send also, on some occasions, their deputies to the throne, but they form no
part of the Diputados de los Kev nos, and their coustiiuents iix at pleasure the object and
<luration of their temporarv mission. , . . , . 4, .
We may perceive from tliis ske tch how- little die sovereign authority is limited in hpain.
I'hc councils are the organs of his will, and at Uie same time the depositary of the laws
whicli emanate therelr(im ; his ntinisters are the agents of it. Vor a great part oi the
lute centnrv thev have been the onlv persons connected. The king is habitually closeted
with each of diean separalelv. In anv knotty ease they are assembled in a junta, in order
.hat he mav obtain their collective opinion. Uj) to 1718, their authority was counter-
oalanced bv the council of state, but the ambitious cardinal Alberoiu, at that epoch<
'hought lit' to release himself from its inlerllreiice. The council of state contimied to
be the most honourable corps in the nation but ceased to assemble. The place of coin-
e.illor of state is now onlv honorary, with a considerable salar>- anncxeel to it, and fur-
nishes the sovereis.'-n w ith'die means of rewarding those of his subjects w ho have: deserv-
ed well of the state. The various oflices of administration generally lead to Uiis appoint-
ment at the end of a few vears.
But in the month of Fe'bruary 1792, a ft w days after my arrival at Aranjuez, count
dcFlorielaBlanca, who had drawn on himself the displeasure of the (lueen, and who had
eidier the boldness, or impolicy to slight the young duke de la Alcudia, whose credit
with the roval couple was every day augmenting, Florida Blanca whose thoughUess
Hnr'ilt.o \ N'N'
I !i A . L: r, ,> J M ;. 1' A r
iO^
.tudacity was about to pliini^e his (•(.imtr}- inif) ;i w.ir which h;i(l no nioiivc, .mc! \\;i:,
waiitiiii; cviii oKa s|)ic'i<,iis prctc xt in tlic iiiitKt ol'ilic iiu)sl inifcci si-ciiritv as hv rnn-
rtivcd, \vas(!i-,niissi(l to nial;c room lor .MoIl^it•llr DWraiula, who was as little prepared
tor this return ol' I'avour, He; was inadt ijrimc minister, and spilt ofliis lon^ cxpcrierux
he did not look upon himstlf as possessid sint;;!y of a sulHcicnt al)ility to sujiport the
uvif^ht of ilK-adniiiii-,tration in such a critical juncture, and consc(iueiu'i\ urii;rd the iic
cessity ol'liavinj^^ recourse to n council ol'sfaU', whicli was iniiuediat.ely'asscmi)led, and
of which lie w as made the preside ni. Xotwitiistaudii!}^- these wise precautions, Monsieur
D'Aranda was hlanud for Ii:ivi!i:^' accepted theadininistr.ilion, for rt lyiiio- uponan ajipa-
rcnt favour of tlie instaliiliiy of whicii the least insi.^ht into what was passing' at court
must have satisfied him. Mis friends w(ndd have (Itemed hini much more honoured
by a noble refusal, than in the acceptance of a situali.in, the s])Iindour of which could
yield no addition to his fime. liis enemies, iiis rivals, the nunisters of the powers, u ho
had already secretly conspired ai.';aiiist France, which he was supposed to favour, alreadv
pretlicted his sudden fall, and no doubt ga\e their assistance towards it. Foi my part 1
who look for nothin,u;, who fear nothing, from one side or the other, who for the seven
months of his administration was continually near his person, I nuist sav, duit preserving
at all times a disunity frefiuently bordering- on stillness, he employed his means at this
time in keeping the scourge of war at distance from his country, and that I cannot hold
opinion with those who conceive that this last scene u( his political life has diminished
his pretensions to general esteem.
Succeeded in the moiuh of October by the didvc of Ali:udia, mul.T pretence that his
great age rendered it necessary he should take- repose, he supi)orted this mortification witli
the serenity of a philosopht r. He preserved die title of president of the council of state,
and filled the functions of it, until having express((l himself at one of the sittings of this
council with that rigid frankness which is peculiar to him, on the subject of the war with
France, and which certainly should have met witiian apology in his experience, he was
exiled to Jain, a city of Andalusia. On die return of j)eace the king, i)anishing him for
e\cr to a distance of thirty leagues from his coast, and capital, permitted hini to with-
draw to his estates in Arragon.
At this moment the council of state is composed of thirty-two members, thirteen of
which are a distance from Madrid upon diiVereiit accounts, there are eleven other indivi-
duals of flistinction, for the most part absent, who without being admitted to the council,
are considered as honorary members ; the value of which is little more than entitling-
them to be qualified your excellency.
The title of councillor of state, now but an honorary appellation even for those who
possess it in its plenitude, is the most distinguished recompence or rather favour, which
the king of Spain can confer. It is the reward of personal merit, of long service in a
political career, or in some important brandies of administration : for some years back
it is an appendage to the oHices ol' ministers of state. The administration is dn ided into
six principal departments.
1. The minister of foreign affairs is die directing minister, and receives, as a mark ol
distinction, the title of secretary of state.
2. The minister of war has but a circumscribed authority. He is president of the
council of war, which is rather a tribunal than a board of administration; but the in-
spectors of the infantry, and those of the cavalrj , dragoons, and provincial regiments,
draw up a statement of whatever relates to the corps of wiiich they have the direction
and the minister at war has only to present the memorials thev give in to thekin.g.
7. -J
.'^(•'
W n^Rt.OASNL .' riMVCT.'i IN SPAIN.
■;. 'I'Ik' iniiusui i>l the \\n\y Ivu, no ^i^si^^'^itcs. TIk' chit-'ls of the tluvc (ii|,art.niciii-,
uh\ the iiisiKctors of tli-.- navy arc naiikd l>y ilv kinfj^fui the ri pre mentation of the mini-,
icr; the naval ordinanrcs prtpand by l/im i\(|nia only the sanction of the sovriviijn.
-1. Tilt niini->t(r()r'inaii(A- hlioiiM propcily be niuUr the inspection of the snperintcit
tlant-gcniralur that (K|)ai'UMent ; but these two (jflieri^ were some time since iniited, on
account ofthe siparaiion of them mnlliplyin;;- v/uhont necessity the sprincrs of [govern
nunt. C'liark', III, had thne ininislcrj^'ol' fm::nce : Scpiillaei, diss^raced to satisfy iIk
nation; Mnifpiie/. and lAruiii, who maintained du ir situations for Hfe. No one will
j)risnm>- toalllrmthat tlie (inaiice department v^asv.ell managed durinf^ their administra-
tif)n ; but would tlu ir ha\ in;!; an inspector o\er t'u'm huvc caused them to I:-' better ma
naf^( (1 ? The council of fuiance opjioscs fricjUeuily but a weak barrier to the acts of tlu,
minister of that department. Tne president of thib council for a loni^ time was die mi-
nister liimself. An uncle of the prince of the peace at present hf)l(ls tiie situation.
/). The minibter of the Indies Iunl the most extensive department in all the monarchy :
for in him was cmtercd the ci\ il, militar}-, ecclesiastical, and linan('ial tijoverimient ot
Spanish America, audit may be said, that in the whole political world there has never
been a minister w hose power >vas so extensi\c, since it eomjjrthendcd the whole of that
immense coimtry which, from the north of Calilbrnia, stretches to the straits of Ma-
{i;ellan. The authority of this minister w as curbed only by the intervc ntion of die coun-
cil of the Indies ; but for some \ ears back the presideiv y of that council has Ixeu joitied
to the situation of minister for the Indies. Charles I\", in suil'i rinji; a council to exist
whose establishment is as ancient as the con<|Ucst ol'Amuic;;, has divided the ministry
for the Indies ann^n;'; ilie live other ntinibiers. 'i'he largest portion of this division has
I'allen to the lot of tiie minister of favour and justice.
(i. The deiiarimcntofthe n)inisterof llivom- and justice comjjrises what relates to ju-
diciary and eceleslaslical affairs, as well in Spain as in the Indies ; but his authority is cir-
cumscribed b\- tlie |,;re.'.t chamber (Camara) of the council of (Jastile in ICurope, and by
the council fur tiie Indies in what regards America. In 179(3 there were no more thati
five miiiisters, the ministry ibr Ibivign affairs being filled by Don Manuel dc Ciodoy,
wiio in 1792 was created duke de la Alcudia, and who after tern^inating a war which he
-utered inlone)don!;t with great reluctance, received the name which above all others is
glorious to a nunister, that of the Prince of the Peace. I have known him intimately,
and haveo!)itrved his conduct on critical oi;casions. I sliall neither be his censor nor
apologist ; all that I sli;;ll say of him is, that history furnishes lew examples of so much
good fortune, and that so rajiidly attained : iiis success no doubt creates envy ; however,
few are displeased with it, since he supports his station with dignity, and shews, by the
use he makes of the favour he enjo\s, that he is not altogethe;* uiiworthy of it.
In liis person is concentrated almost every digni'y in Sp>iin. IJe is a knight of the grand
order of Charles III, as well as of the gol'Vn fleei e'; he is a grandee of the first class ; he
'Mijoys the title of prince, which no nobleman of Spanish extraction ever bore before
him': in addition to these, he is prime minister, a councillor of stale, captain-general of
the armies, inspector and chief of lour companies of gardes du corps, &c. Sec. To sum
up all, nature, in imison with fortimc to bless him with every cpialification which can
entitle him to claims on happincsh, has endowed liim with a capti\ating exterior, and
what is of greater value, a sound mind, and a good and benevolent heart.*
* III 1798, tlic I'reiicli (!fovernmcut. coiiccivcfl it hud \\v;hi to coinnl.uii of him, iind employed its
nih'.eitrf at tlic Spanish tuui't to drive him from the ministry for foreign iiduirs; but it could not
0 0 I'll i,i» \ \ N 1,
I'H A V Ur, .. 1 V 3 I' .V I.N.
ot,
lit \i\>.) nil' .idtniuistr.itioii <)l" liiinncf \\.r> i;i tin.' Iiaiuls r.f l),)n Dir^M Crirclo'iui. ][.
hitd Iji'i'M dispM'lii (1 from l»il!jf);i, wIiltc he h\(\ u Ikvisc oi Ini"iiiv.'ss in ITHl, ;n ch.ir^-'
d'aliliins to llu 'Jiiiud StaUsoij iIk' \) hi of Spiin. lie \\ is ;u'U'f\\.;!(!s uppniiiud (.'on
Mil-j4,riunil in r,n;.';l;iiid, and tlii.'ii siici'txikd Ia/.cii:i, wIuj ilicd, ii tliv ;idiHiiii.-,Lr.ili"ii ni
iiiiaiici'. IK' Ij,,:;mii lii.^ caaxr wilh ra\'junil)lr .ius|)ii'cs, lv.i\iii.i;' tosuctLcd a iiuiii \\Iiii
!iad iiiuliivd liuuMv li' sfj oditjiis to tin; pLOplv, ihal il \va-» willi diliiculty liii i\inain.s coiikl
Ik' ('.(irii'd in (luiet to tlic tonil). Sonic acUlrcss iiiiw iUistaiidin;;- w.ii n-'ini.'.iiu to .M.
(lard()(|ui to maintain his ground, smrouiickd as he was In- tin: I'mUairassnii. nts into
\\U'u\\ lusdcpartnuiU had lulkn ; and s(jme toura^c to snpport the burthen ol' tlic war
in uhieh Spain was en{i;a}^-ed w ith Irance. Ai'ler ha\in;.^c(jn(hictcd the vessel ot Tmance
for the spaee of six years, with more _^•ood lortnne than capacity, thr ai.L,dnhc d;i;i;;-croiis
iMvi}^atit)ii which it had to pass, lie was nominateil anilj.issL.dor lo'Turin •, M. de X'arel.i
succeeded Iiini, who, recently promoted to the ministry of marine, lu:d i \niccd ):iTeater
aptittidc for linancial matters thi'.n lor military afl'airs.
They i)olh died shortly after; and at present the ministry of linance is in the hands ol
Don iViichael Caj etano. This nobleman had filled the post ol administrator of the little
island Ivica, one of the IJakares, for several years, and had vixilied it by es'.ablishments
which manifested at the same time his \visdom, and his atiachnient to rej^nlarit} . Ou
his return he was reommeiidid to the prince ol the i)eaee, by the Dutch aml)assadt)r
VValkenaer, a man of sense, and an eminent judi^e of merit of diiUrent descii[)tions.
The account he }^ave of his little administration, the w armlh with w hich he disclosed
the plans of amelioration which he had conceived, made him be esticmed capable oi
cmplo}ing his abilities in a much wider fitld : lie was raised to the station of minister ol
fmanee ; averse lias been ai)plied to hiin, which I am at a loss todetermin • wiutherihc
ofrsi)ring of envy or rigid justice,
" Will) ^.hiiK s wiiliiii I'.ii propiM' >i)lit!v.
IM'fjmntfd is ni> iiiuie u sUir."
In 1793 M. de Valdez was mini.-,ter of the na\y. and iiad managed liis department
with loyalty and wisdom from the period of the death (if Castijon. The court and the
nation would yet have been l)eiter satisfied wiili him. if during the war with l'"rance he
had joined to these good (pialitics that acli\ity which ciivnmslances exacted. On the con
elusion of peace he obtained what fur a longtime he h,;id been desirous of, an allowance
to resign, and was succeeded by Don I\dro N'alcra, who li.id ic [c.iied considerable ex-
perience in the administrative clcpurtmeiu of the navy : he found tiiat great neglect had
existed in this oftice, and on his succession pursued his j)!an of repairs with a circum-
spection ljorderin,g on slowness. His jironiotioii to the ministry of tiie navy did not
meet with general surt'rage, and shortly his cor.duct disguhtcd many of the mo^t distin-
guished persons in the navy , a dangenjus maiter at the eve of a ut w maiiiime war: he
was thercl'ore removed to the head of the dcp.irtm'. nt ot fiiuaice, and Don Juan de Lan-
gara took the administration of the navy. This admiral, notwithstanding the species oi
disfavour iim which he had falicii, iVom the f.nnoub check which a Spanish squadron
under his conunand met with in I'i'SO, l> .d accpiiretl the cstcuu of tlie public b\ liis ta-
lents and his I(n alty. At that linu he comaumdcd the s pu. Iron at Cadiz ; it was not
lor.g, howew., that he maintained this app(jintment, to whicU he had been culled by the
cstrantre liliii tlif royul f.ivour, wliicl. lie inctssi.irly ip.joyiil. It may, on tlx; contrary, be afTirmed
tluit these tilieii.pls so far IVom injuiiiii:; liini, luu i( i\e(l o uiiluaicc lii.-. credit, iilllioiii^h less opiTily
shewn; lie is, la tiUt, llic prim-.- lui'.iisler, und iiivi.^ilil) tile cliiul ol c\<.Ty d.partuKiU. lie has been
Hiiceecdediii the oll'ict for lorci^uuil'uirs by three other uiiiiisiers, ol' wlioui ^vc shall speak as v,«; pro-
• ccd.
1.1«
iiorut: ')> N \ !■
I l( A \
I N I. r A J N
\oii'.' oi tlio ii.iii't;i. At jtit %t.iit Ik is c.n)taiii-^,^ciural ol' tin iiu} , am! '.:oiiiicIlif)i- fjj'
^tatf, and lives ptartably at .Muliid, in po.s., ssion oi' iliat< sl».iin he lu-> so u". lli'ariuil.
,'M'tt.rhi:i rc^i.^niatioii, iho minisiry wliiilihc K'lt vacant ua:s j^'ivcn ail inl'iini to l)>\\
\\\[(,u'v> C ih.ilkrf). Hut at the lH;j,iiiniii;^f of this ycnr an admiral fjtucrull)' es'a'i incil.
])mii Doniinj;!) Cir.uak liana, was a|>j)()inti.(l nrnust(.r ol' thi: na\y.
'I'he administr;iti;)ii oltlu' war ckiiirtnant, after the tlealliof L( rena, uas entnisti'vl to
; onnt C'liinpo Al in}je, \vIh) retained it up to the conclusion of peace \vitl\ I'runce; he
was then nanicd atnhassidor to X'iiiina, and is now ii^one in thai e.ipae.ity to Lisbon. His
sueerssnras war niiiiistir was Don Mii^ncl Jo-.epli dc Aran>c t, 'i soldier ul' distin;;nish(d
nierii, who, aiu r ')cinj:;(.mj)lo)ed in lonifjjn ne<^'otMtions, had lilli.d the iniendaniy ol'th«
ki:i!;(l(>ni ol' X'akneia with j^fMrral approhation. Sikjii al'ier he made way ibr Don Jnan
M.inMi 1 Al\;!ri.s, thr unele ol'thv prinee ol' tlit. peace, and \".as sent as viceroy to Mi.xieo.
ilun in latlh r ( ritieal eirennistances, which were not however above hi-j capacity. A
sort ol'latalit) rajiidly snatched him from this destination, and he now lives retired, but
not in disi;race, at MadritI, and is a eonncillor of statis He has reci.nUy been pointed
at asa lit person to be iiuployed on some important missit)n.
Don Jnan Mamiel Alvares did notion;^- retain the war department ; he as well has ta
ken his place in the council of state. His sueei ssor ad interim was the same Don Joseph
Ant(»nio CabalKro, already enipl(jyed in the departments of fivonr and justice, and the
iKi\y, who thus \\as fur a tinu- tlu' ministir, with the moit upon his hands of any in Mil
t'.pt, and who, if c(jmpetent to the duties he had to Inhil, must at the same time have
bun oni.' o| ihe most skilful.
'J'he administration oi' fa\()ur and justice, which was the allotment in 1792 of Don
t'edro ;M( una, a friend of the duke tie la Aleudia, passed afterwards to Don L'^Uf^enio de
La;j,uno, an enli,L;htened, and at the same time a modest man, for a lon^ii; time at the head
of iheolViet for forei|;n aflairs ; ami who, wIku that dej)artnKnt was rather prematurely
eoiHided to the duke de la Aleudia, assisted the youni^- minister, by impariin,Lj the I'ruits
of his long- eNperience. He did not long' retain the olHce of minister of favour and jus
tice, which perhaps re(|uired a man of greatir activity, but sought for the otium cinn
tlignitate in the council of state, and died shortly after.
ills inmiediate successor is one of the most enlij^htened nien in Spain, one of the most
perfect philosophers I have ever met w ith, Don Ciaspard Melchior de Jovellanos, a person
who at the close cjf my last edition I had pointed out as one among the men of merit
who languished in oblivicju. It is iirttended that the hopes formed of him have not
been realized. But ma}' not this be the language of envy, or at least of those enemies
among a certain class of men, whit h will yet be lormidable to Spain for a length of time
to come, and whom the philosopiiieal intrepidity with which he has opposed certain
abuses has rendered inveterate against him ? However it may be, the disgrace of M.
de Jovellanos was as sudden as tliat justice which called him from his state of inaction
has been tardy in his operation. IK is retired to his province, where he cultivates lite-
rature and the useful sciences.
He was replaced by the same Don Joseph Antonio Caballero, of whom we have before
spoken, and w ho thus had at once three important employments, being minister of fa-
vour and justice for constancy, war minister ad interim, and minister for naval afiliirs, the
functions of which oihce he attended to up to the period of the recent nomination of
admiral Grandellana.
At present (May 1802) there arc four ministers in Spain. Don Pedro Cevallos, for
foreign aftairs; Don -Miguel Ca} etano Soler, for Itnaiices; Don Joseph Antonio Caballero.
rint'i: f;o \N N i.
1 1< \
I N' :, (■ \ I N .
.•.•>l'
lorilu {!rp;irfnii nt of (*a\ouraiitl justice, as wt. II :»•* lli.it of war , .uid Don DonuiigoGr.iri
d( lliiiia, for iiaxal afV..ir»i.
Tlir st.il)ilit\ oftlu- ministry imdir C'li:ir!is III. \> i- »mi of thf nu'st ritnark.iMo rir
runist.iii('(s ol'ilii' SiKiiiisIi jni\( rimu lit. W lun tlli^ sent r if;ii had r>ti,'t. (;'ivi'i^ Iiiscfinli
d( iici to a iniiii-.t( r, iiK tp.Kity, iiiisfi'Mtmu', iiotliiii;^; caiisdl liim to witlidraw it. Hi-,
iiiiiiistcrs Wire cotisiiiiKiitly almost (( rt.iiii oC n tainiii;;- thiir iiiiploymdits for lift ; anil
this cittaiiit}', \aIii;iI)U n|)oii nuii.y a((iiiiiits, was not die kss a spur to tiu ir at ti\ it\-. If
it Kit tin m a uidt lii lil for tin plans \slu(li tin \ lormid, il secured tlu in impunity lor
pri\arieatioii, and .ifl'orded time for a!)usis \u tak( deep rof)t. Under the jiristut ^o
vernnitiit, Iujs not tlu' otiicr extreme been railui too much follouid? The ehiefadmi
nistrati(jM in the }ear 17'.>2 aloiu. has passiil into no Uss thin thne hands, and I had to
treat with three successive ministers ol liiilerenl di.uaeur and ujiinions, npuii the most
knotty points.
live yearsafter, the administration of furcii^'ii alVairs was entrusted to l)()n Trant^sco
Saawdra, witli the pui)lic voice in his f.i\f)nr, to whirh I vtiitured la ynw my neom-
meiidation. Bad health was litherthe e.mst. (jr tlu pi\ test r)l' hi-, |)i\ mature retin nient.
He was succeeded ad interim by a youn};-man who, after displas iii,^ some f^enius abroad
in a political capacit)-, w.is made chief (jf the oiliee for f;)ri i;>ii ail liis. Don I.,ouis .Mir-
canodc Urgueya, who (piickly became a ,^reat favoin"ite, but this fa\i)ur il a]>ptars was
misplaced. Public disj^race l)ecame the price lif his imj)rudence, and he was lonlined in
die eastlcof I'ampeluna.
The departnu 111 which he filk d wa- defmitively k'u'i m to l)(jn Pedro Cevallos, the head
of an ancient family of Old Castile. After stn(hin,L; at N'alladolid, intendedly for llu
bar, he was sent as secretary of emljass}- to Purtuifil. On his return to .Madrid, he
married a relation of the prince of tli^ peace, and was afterwards appf)inted as atnbas-
sad(jr plenipotentiary to Naples ; but in eonsefpience of diiierencis arisinijj Ijctween the
two courts, was prevented Irom pruceediiiii;. From what is known at present of this
minister of state, it appears that his modisij' and prudence aflbrd a striking' contrast
with the conduct ol' his jne du:e.>s(a-. One cannot here help observing-, that in four
years that Charles IV, has reigned, h-j !ias had six ministers of foreij^n affairs ; while his
father durinf^ the whole of his rei^rn ol ninc-and-tweiity years, hael but three, two of
which, M. Wall and M. de Grimaldi, spontaneously ivsi^nied, and the third survivedhim.
_ I-'ewer changes in the present rcij^n have taken place in the other departments of mi-
nistry.
The Spanish ministers are enabled to give tliemselvcs up to the labour which their
diH'erent employments ref|uire better than diose of any other coiu't. Nothing can be
more regular than the life which they lead, an airing' is almost the only amusement
they take. l'^-(jm the aicana ol" their closets ihey holel correspondence with the extre-
mities of the globe ; w ithout, their hori'/em is circumscribed within half a leagues diame
lev. Their chief conrpany is their clerks, who are accustomed to live at their table.
This mutual e;onsfraint has s'jme trilling conveniences ; l)Ut the consecjuences are, a
more close union between the principal and his subalterns, and a greaK r regularity of
connection in j.nbllc ailliirs. Those who expedite them under the eyes of the ministers
are ne)t, it is true, si'.n;)le clerks, die} r.iity with more proprietj be comj)ared to our head
clerks in diiluvnt oilici s. In (;rder lu ufjiain ajipointmenls of this descriiJtion, it is ge-
nerally nece-sary ih-t picol's '.f t-ilenl should have been manifested previously in semic:
occupations oi trust. In t,he oiliee of foreign affairs, for example, almost all' the prin-
cipal clerks lia\e b(en ittaehedas secretaries to some diplomatic mission, and from that
emple)yment frequenti) p.iss to the situation e)f plenipotentiaries or ambiissadors. 'i'here
00
■BfaMi'".«.\ N'ME t» lilAVLi; !N MAIN,
lie :it pi'.iiiit, ?iix of tIn.'muh«-> rtpri'sciUllulr sovtn i.i^ii at lorcij^M it>vnls; remarkable
bin!j;iilaiity in a iUspotic jjovtrmix lit in uliich (.i.c slioiilil iiiiai;iru; illt^i^^lK• ami I'avoui
would (lis|)ns(.'(.r places, am! uliicli iii litis i\:>i.ii.t niayi<r\r as a moiKl lur In (-govern
nu-nth.
I I'.avc ofu-ntimcs in tlics< Spanish ollici rs nat u itti ai least the 'ippcaranrc of haiigliti
tuss, Imt rreqiicntly it i.s nooilur thin a \iil thin-.vn nv(r kindii' >s ; it docs not prtveni
the i.chiuiiisti ition of j\i:-.fi( t ; and, lit whi'.tivu- ^\ill !.es:iid. I h \\e reasons for helievin^;
that eniinption isasiau in thenj as iliscrLtinn is ei niiiuai. B<ii how slow, how metlifKli
t:al, In w \\( arisoine tin ir pro,mess ! I low nnuh are litey to be i-iiitd, tho.ie who play the
par: i )' ptiiiiomis, whether upon iheir own an (niiil or t.'.ii ol tluir country.
tn AP'IKU VI,
j\ Mvsv Ml' Mm or I HI, I tieii 1 Ol si'MN .,,vi :rm ii» I'AiN ii\ii$. iT*TrH.» MANerACTOuv o^p^.\l^
(.i.As.s, niNiisii MAiiii, 1111. I II Ml run SI', or rvii.vn.
I'lil' ft siduuis of tli< colli t of Si'ai:i (L' s Sitio^) have very few resources of amuse-
ment. Till V havt- no pla\s, no pnliiie ^•aine>, no h.ri^' assemblies, except ou days f)l
einninnv ; iii.d ( (a.si (pii nllj llu m placis.ire not inhabi cd, eNeijit Inaviry fee/ persons
who^-i siinatiniu. o!ili^:;e tluni tluritf*, at an\ u'l.er piri(id \hiu that of the i \enision to
Aiaiijui.iin the snninur; that of Si. IliU i-aiM) i^ Miiiost diM rtt d, so that the society of
t:;e i-o)al pcisonaf;< s is lor the most par! ri?,tiicud to tlose whose services rccpiire their
iittuulaiice. The (iiieen whin princi. ,; m Asuaiis, • \(i pt wlun takinj; an airin|;; t the
^lalid hours, pa^sld ilu ^,iiatir |)arl ol hir time in private, where she enjoyed no other
anuismiiiiis tii.in music and conNirsalioii. The prince, her husband, never left her,
txctpt to aeeompany the kinj^ his l.ttl'ir lo tiic chaee, oflentimes twice in a day. Since
diiir aictssion to the throne, ilie\ have swirxxd very little from the same uniform life ;
but the strict i.rK)Uette oliserxtd has i)ein soniew hat lessened. They occasionally appear
for a short time at the mttriainmeiits pi\ui by the {•randecs and forei}i;u ministers; a
condescension never shovn b} Charles 111, but they nevtr go to the play, nor even to
the bull-ni^hts.
'J'lie kill};- (hiriiij;- his father's life jjatronised the line arts ; he had made a collection
■J ^ood pamtin}j,s <;! the dirareiit selu^ols, before he inherited one of the; lara;est and most
\alual)le galleries in I'.iirope.
The e(jllceti(jn el the court of Spain is not considered inferior to any, unless it be to
diat of the court of I-'ranee, and ilutl of the elector of liavaria. It is principally at the
J'.scurial and Madrid. The palace at lldefonso formerly contained a ^reat number ol
paintings, but the i;alleries ol Midrid and Aranjuez have been enriched by their re-
moval.' There remains, howe\ir, siill a suillcieiicy to occupy the ultcntion of an ama-
teur for several hours.
As soon as you enter the anti-eh.;mber of the kint^'s apartments, there passes in re.
view, as in an' lii>,torical (;allery, fust an elei^aiU portrait of Loui?, XIV, by Ki!;-aud ;
and luxt, that of J,ouis X\', when a child ; diose of the rc;jvnl, the duke of Vendome,
the last duke of l\ama, ol tiie house of l-'arnese, and hi^. dulchess; as also those of
Charles ill, when he went lo take i)ossrssion of die kiii|;(loni of Najjles ; of Philip \\
on his arrival in Spain ; and ol the archduke his rival. The chami)er adjoining- has ii
view of one of the finest cascades in the s^arden. This ro:)m is decorated with several
paintings, among which are some by Murillo and Solimena. In the adjoining ajnirt-
ment-^,"a fine oni. of St. Sibastian by Cniido ; a I'lemish family by Kiibens ; a i)ictiirc
b-. Toussiii ; two heads by Meng.> ; the portraits ol" the princes of Condc and -M. d<-
TurLime, upon the same canvass, by Vandjck, &,c. &.e.
Mnu;<r;oANNr.'j mWLI.a tW ai'AiN'.
JOi
narkahic
1(1 iUvoui
• govern
hatigliti
t i>rtvt it(
lulit vitl^
imtliftdi-
) |)lay tlu-
OK VI. \{ ^
dF i•.^mlsc:♦
l days (A
IV piTSOlUS
iiisioii to
society ol
nirc tiifir
illicit tilt
IK* otlur
- left luT,
Simi
form lile ;
lly appear
iiistcTb ; a
)r even to
collection
and inu!)i
>s it be to
lly at the
lumber ot
• their rc-
li' an unui-
jscs in re
Ki!;aiid ;
^■"endomc,
) those of
Philip V,
tini^ has a
i\\ several
ing ajnirt-
a jjictiirc
nd M. d<:
U\ a RalUry on the p;roui\(l floor, atxl which occupies the whole iront touards tlu
gardens, besides some line paintin;^s, anil two channinj; heads in mosaic, there is u con
iderablf nundur of antiques, die Rieat^r part of which na^ bouj^'ht in Italy by riiiiin V.
and form»rly ( oniposed a |)art of the cabinet of Christiana of Suidm. Those which
most en^iiK^'*' "'^' ;itt"it""> ^*'<-i"<' •» eylindiic:il altar, on which the procission of Silenus
is sculptured in has relief; a colossal Cleopatra ; a statue of Jupiter wieldin^ hi-, thuu
der; several \'( nnses of the natural size , ei^'ht muses a little nniiila'ed, in which tno
dern andunskilfid hands have i ndeavoured to repair the injtiries of lime, atul of which
the drapery is n niarkable for its lightness ; two gDups which are Ivuiished to a corner,
asthev retrace the iminiproving fictions of tnjthology, the adnhtrous amours of jiipi
ter wi\h Leda and (ian\ mcde, who caress with suspicion the ii.unod'st birds, whosi
figure the god has assumed, &.c. IJut the antii[nc sculptures which more parlicidarh
merit the attention of connoisseurs, arc jouiig launus carrying a kid, and a group ol
Castor andPollux, two original master pieces of anti'piitj in pulect preservation, co^jies
of which arc met with every wIk re by the siile of thuit (jf Venus de Medicis, the Lao-
coon, the Apollo lielvidere, and the Karnesian Hercules.
In an apartment ii\ the gallery the finest marbles of Spain, in columns, vases, and
htists, seem to vie with the productions transmitteil lo us frouj antifpiity ; yet notwiih
standing the excellence of these modern performances, they only serve to make mori
cons()icuous the superiority of their forerunners. A small corridor, adjoining to the
gallerv, contains in piles every thing for which no place could be found in. the latter,
Egyptian statues, fra.^ments of columns, bas reliefs, busts, and otlu r antitpics, consign
td to dust, destructive insects, and whatever anticipates the ravages of time.
Without the castle of St. lldeionso, proofs of the attention of the monarch, and hi.s
taste for useful establishments, appear on every side. The count de Florida liianca, who
had at heart the public weal, and possessctl much information on many points, was af-
fected at the sight of the crowd of women and children who led an idle and wandering
life about St. lidefonso. In order toallord them employment, he proposed the establish-
ment of a linen manulact(jry at the very residence of his majesty, and inmiediately un
der his eyes. At the beginning of 1781 it had not been thought of ; and, rare example
of celerity in Spain, before the month of August 178.), there were upwards of twentj
looms employed in the new manidactor}-, and two great machines for pressing and
washing the linen.
To set them going, a skilful person, whose manufactory was on the decline for want
of encouragement, was sent for from Leon. Since its first institution this establishment
at St. lidefonso has been visibly improving.
Near this new established and much wanted manufactory there is one of luxury, be.
gun in the reign of Philip V, this is a manufacture of plate-gl.iss, the only one of thf
kind in Spain. It was at first no more than a common glass nianufactoiy, which still
exists, and produces toleral)ly good bottles, and w hite glasses extremely well cut : this
was the first step towards a far more enlarged undertaking. The looking-glass manu-
factory of St. lidefonso may be ct)mpuretl with the finest establishnienLs of ilu- kind. It
was begun in 1728, under die management of a Catalan, and was brought to perfection
under Ferdinand Vi, by a Frenchman named Sivert. Glasses are run here of all di
mensions, from common stjuares to those of the greatest size. They are not so clear,
and may be less polished than those of Venice and St. Gol/ni ; but no manufacture has
yet produced them of such large dimensions. In 1782 1 saw one east a hundred and
thirty inches long by sixty-five wide. The enormous table of brass on which the \'u[m-
fied matter was cast,' weighed 19,8UO pounds, and U\c cvlinder which rolled over it tn
3 A
VOL. V.
id!2
OOUnr.OANNt*-. l«A\i:t.3 !N urMM
rcndor tlic ^iirhro vvvw \\v\\fh'.i\ 1,200 pnimtl".. In \hv vii»»t cdiflfc ulicro th'n'Apcr.itioi.
is carrii'tl on, .in (iim.iiion utll UfniUj ul" ( \ luiin.iiion llii()ii;;li()iit its wlxili' process,
tlKTc nn- two other t.iljics sonnwliat smaller, andtwinty ovens, ulunin tlu* ^lassts uf
hoi aro placjd, and r« main lu rnuticilly cIomcI lor the spare ol' (Von» lilUi n to fivi -atid
luxnt) (lays, in r)r(Kr to tool by (li^jjncs. Siuh as split, or have .my (Ulect, an then
r.m to make niirrors, jjflass s(piaris, or carriaj^c pl.ites. 'i'ju' nMintiiKinci; of this nia
nnl'actory is very e\pinsi\e to tlu kinj:;. I rLckon that if the general cost of the esta
l)lislnnent, and tin muiurous drawbacks he eoiupnit d, some ol the plates stand him
in l(;o,(io(^ ri.ils.
In a Ion}; gallery adjoining the inaniifaetory tluy arc made thinner by manual labotn ,
by riibbiiiii; one upon the ollur, s,\nd and water being plaeed lutuien, the sand ol ilif-
fcrent digrtes (»i lint ness, according lo the stagi- ol' the work. 'I'he n|)pir-glass being
kept eu.itiuually ni motion, while the under one is at rest, it eonse(|uenlly beconu's
thinner nuK h ilie soonest, so much so, ih.it fnc of tlu' first arc riduced to thiir proper
thickness bel'orc the latter is sulliciently ground. This labour is wearisome and nu)nolo
nous ill the extrcnu ; one glass keeping the same \\(.)rkman employed constantly lor
more than two moiuhs.
When sullieiently ground on both sitUs, they are polislud in the following manner:
the largest in tlu manufactory itself by the liand ; the smaller are carried to a machine,
where thirty p.aishirs are movc<l by ualir : these |)olisl crs are a sort of s(piari' boxes,
placed firmly on ihe glass, and shod with vi ry even felt, loaded with lead internally, and
arc moved horixonially by tlu; impulse of a handle of wood to which the} are liistcned ;
beforehand the plate is rubbed over with a species »)fcmer\-, the production of a (piarr)
in the iieighbouiliood of 'l"olcdo. 'I'liis emer\ is di\i<lid into three classes, the coarsest
of which is used first, that of a middling (piality is next used, and the finest the last ;
after this, the glass is covered with a red earth (almagro) and is placed under the j)o.
lisher. This process is carried on for each side- of the glass, antl takes up from eight
to ten days,
An attempt was made to substitute meelianism for manual labour in grinding down
and thinning the plati s, aid for this j)urpose, machiius were transported from Trance
lo St. Ildel'onso; but tlu' directors of the establishnunt perceiving that their adoption
did not greatly accelerate the operation, and was ecpially expensive, returned to the
origiiral i)lan.
The plates tints groinid and pulislied an at length taken lo Madrid to be silvered.
The kingreser\es some of the liiiest t<J decorate his apartments; of others he makes
presents to the courts most intimately connected with that of Spain. In 1782, Charles
III, sent some to Naples f)iie hundred and thirty inches in height by iifty.four inches in
breadth, and some time alter his majesi}' adeleel some of the same dimensions to tlu
presents he sent to the Ottoman court, with which he had just concluded a treatj-.
'I'hc rest of the i)roduce of the manufactory of St. Ildefonso is sold at Madrid, and in
the provinces, for the king's account. In \i\u\ has a i)rohibition of introducing any
other glass within a circle of twenty leagues around been issued in order to secure a sale ;
It may easily be imagined that the proceeds cannot answer the expences of so extensive
an establishment, which, ;cept the article of wood, is distant from all the raw materials
it employs. Situated as it is, far inland, surrounded by lofty mountains, and at a con-
siderable distance from any navigable river or canal, it deserves to be numbered among
those costly and ruinous establishments of luxury, which contribute to the splendour
of the throne, but to the impovjriblimcnt of the people,
tiot UtJ(>AN.^l{ U lUAVLI..t IN 4l'AINt
aui
Atllic cVistiiniT f)f a »|ii;iitir ol a I'.iRdc from tlu* fiihtlr runs llii liUli n\tr V'.rv'sma,
vvhith ;it!oi(K(l Charlis III, om- (il' liis iiiOHt favonri'c ricnations, lliat or Inhinj;. Its
hanks were ru^'i^nl ami i^rnoktd, lu IiacIIkI \h in, and inail';ui;ans»ua>, or, uluntlK'
{vroinul rtqnind it, stoiu or sod -.ti ps. 'I'liis livi r, oi- ratlid' strcandt t, is itu losrd bc-
twiiii tuo pill M of idckN, ^j;!<)n|)ul in tin.' moil romantic nvmnn. It.i limpid waters
Sf)mctinu*5 run tnnndtnouilv ovi;r lissrr rocks in the hid id' ih • riM r, or |irnipital<
lln nisrlvis hy naUir.ilcascacHi, at imnvals loiMuin;^ sn>all hi^in'., \\\\\ch serve as at»\
Iiims to tin- trout, « Itieh ari- lU'. t w illi in ahnndanci;. In honu- ;'la<'is tlili i Imt is si'p.i-
i-ati'd l)v litlU' iniadouHlVom copsis ol" |^r» i n oak, wi'Ii \vhi(;I\ lli.it part o)' ilu' connir)
abouncis. ln«»ilurj, tulud sluuijsarc seen upon ilu top-, ot ili.- rocks, or liam^ wnvinp;
from tlitir siili s.
In the rti^'nof Charlc^ III, tlii. court \v< nt oun a \Lai to alarm the NaiaiUs ol du
KrcsuKi, Nvitli the noise or a i^uicral hunt. Tlu' n luU /.sous was about a lea^;ne from thi:
cast!c. Some days pri'iious, a nuinl)er (»!' peasants were sent to the nci^hbonrin);;
wo'ids and hills to (lii\i' !)> ion: tlu !n ihf jfamr with wliich the country |)lrniirull)
abounds. The limits were b\ (Unrces n.moued, imtil the liiiii' Used lor ro'i^in^ lh<
f,'amc. The sport then was excellent : die dtcr ran in smill IieriN on all sides, seem
iuf^ly pirceixinj; ihe daa^ir into whiili thr\ wmv diiwii, al'ur which tlu y laced aI)out
and encUaxouuil to I)rave the rnnnin,u; lire ol' inuMpi' try that iluiateuvd tluui in iIk
rear; but, ol)iyin;;' the impuUes of fear, and lailiii^- in their attempt, they passidin clo
scr herds throu<;!i the I'atal defile where tlu- kin^', his sons, and the other prinius, placed
in ambusc.idi, w.iitul their arrival. Theli ability now bicame their last resoiu'ce, and
saved the ^,'reaier number. Out ol' three or lour ihousaiul, and someiimes more, which
thus pas>ed in review, alxMil a hundred I*. II. Some wcv killed (le;id U|)on the spot,
others carr} in};- away with them the mort.d \S()und, ll.w to conceal thtir agony in the
thickets. Their bodies, jct pilpitatin.u,', xvire brought and arranjj;(d upon the Held of
battle. These were uundKixil with a cruel pkasuri', for which a phiio«^opher wouk!
reproach himsell', but which it is agreed to pardtju in hunters. 'I'he whole com*t, and
the Ibreign ministers commonly look pari in ihis amusement, which was rep(,'ated to-
wards the end ol' every \ isit to the I'.sciuial. 'I'he counts of .\rlois and Daminarlin
were invited to a hunt of this nature, as they returned from the camp of St. Roch in
1782. 'I'hey perhaps woidd ha\c uishid for a Wns casv victory o\er the timid inh ibi
tants of the woods, which they were accustonied to cii.isc, and not coolly U) massacre;
but the forests of Compeigne antl l'(jntaiubleau never produced sm h legions of llect
herds, liling otVby ihousands before them.
Since the accession of his present majesty to the throne, these himts have not bcoii
periodical, but viry fre(p)ent; their |)rinci|)al object has been to txterminate the mimer.
ous herds of deer, wliichlay waste the fields of the countrymen who li\f in the iieigli-
bourhood of the royal residences. On one journey l(j Aranjucz CharKs IV, destroyed
more than two thousand, b\ having ihemilrixcn before batteries of cannon loaded with
grape-shot; and in 17'J2 and 17'J."), i perceived that this [)iaise-W()ithy [)rojeci had been
followed up wiihsuilicieiil precision in the neighbourhood of his n.sidenees.
There is another i)lace to which, during the visit to St. Ildefonso, his late catholic
majesty once went annualh to spread the noise and terror which i.ccompany the chace.
I mean the environs of Paiilar, a monastery ol Carthusians, at the foot and on the other
side of the steep mountains which command the castle. El I'anlar, one of the richest
f.onvents of the Carthusians in Spain, and famous for its line wool, is situated in a
charming vallcv, watered Ijv a considerable rivulet, which runs gentlv through the ifrovc.v
3 A 2
I
Jb't
hOUUCOANNf. .1 IRAVELS IN SPAIN.
and meadows. This stream drives a paper-mill, the noise of which is the only sound
re|)eated bv the solitary eehoe : of the nei!;hl)onrhood. A Frenchman managed this
mamilacture on the account of dien\onks some years ago, and seemed in this corner of
the world to liave forgotten both his country and language.
In the monastery of l*aular there is nothing remarkable, e\(x pt the great cloister in
\\h\rh Vincent Carduchohas painted the principal events of the life of Saint Bruno.
1 .shall now a''con'|)any the reader to the castle of Rio Frio, three leagues from St.
Ildefonso. Charles III, came here once a-year to hunt after the Spanish fashion ; that
is, to shoot, as the animals pass by, at the herds of deer which, at all other seasons of the
year, brow zed in quiet in the woods round this place. The castle of Rio Frio is situa-
ted in an extremely sandy soil. And it appears inconceivable wherefore queen Isabella,
who began to build it, resolved on making it her last as\ lum. That it might rccal to
her memory the new palace of Madrid, which neither she nor her husband had the good
fortune to reside in, even for a single day, she ordered it to be built after the same plan,
but of less dimensions. Her son Charles III, being called to the throne of Spain, her
project of rrt.reat vanished, and the castle of Rio Frio was abandoned even before it was
finished.
CHAPTER \U.
riiK MONAsi I'u^ ot' iME r.sceniAi,
I'AINriNGS, PAN'TIIKON, MltUARY.
ESCUUIAI..
r.NMROXS OV TIIF.
LF/r US now proceed towards the Escurial. At about three quarters of a league
iVom Si. IkU'fonso we pass the Fresmaover a bridge, and arrive at Balsain, a village situ-
ated in a hollow shadid by thick woods. The kings of Spain had formerly a hunting-
scat here, to which Philij) V, occasionally resorted, and where he conceived the project
of building St. Ildefonso, in this wild country, infolding to gratify at once his taste for
solitude, and the ehace. The Frenth ambassador, before the king built him a house in
♦he village of St. Ildefonso, resided at this old castle.
As soon as we have passed it, we climb, for two leagues, die tops of the high moun
cains \\ hieh separate the two Castiles. 'I'hc road is shaded by high pines, the tops of
which are freciuenll\ lost in the logs which rise from the bottoms J' the deep vallics.
The airbeeomts gradually colder as we approach the summits of the mountains; and
when we arrived at the seven points of rocks (los siete picos) which, from St. Ildefonso,
have the appearance of an immense parapet wall, anew oliject presents itself to the ad-
miring eye. Bel'ore us we view the v;ist plains of New Castile, and perceive Madrid
.nnsiderably within the bounds of the horizon over which the sight wanders to an im-
mense distance. We are here in another country, and find another climate and a differ-
ent temperature. The traveller frequently leaves behind him elou'Is above clouds, to
which the mountains seem to serve as boundaries, and instantly passes into the most se-
rene air. He afterwards descends from this magnificent belvedere by a road which, for
a long time, more resembled a precipice, but the declivity of which about the year
1785, was made more gentle, and, at the end of two leagues, arrives at the town of Gua-
darrana, through which the great road passes from Paris to Madrid. He crosses this
road to follow that which leads to the Escurial, at which the court resides six weeks in
the latter part of the summer.
This famous monastery is situated at the midway, on the ojipositc side of the chain of
mountains w hich terminate Old Castile. The choice which Philip V, made of this steep
and bare situation, indicates the savage and gloomy character given to him by history.
We will not, however, repeat its censures. Let us not speak ill of him, us we approach
flOUHGOANNE b IKAVhLS IN Si'AIN.
nO.i
only bound
magcd this
is corner oi
t cloister in
[Jriino.
L's from St.
shion ; tiiat
usons of the
riois sitiia-
'cn Isabella,
}^ht rccal to
(1 the good
! same plan,
' Spain, her
jclore it wa?
Ni Of ruF.
of a lcap;ur
village situ-
Y a hunting-
the project
his taste for
ri a house in
high moun
the tops of
Jeep vallics.
ntains; and
t. Ildcfonso,
If to the ad-
:ive Madrid
■rs to an im-
and a ditter-
,' clouds, to
the most se-
d which, for
)ut the year
3\vn of Gua-
crosscs this
iix weeks in
the chain of
of this steep
I by history,
we approach
this ro}al r.onvcnt, where wc perpetually hear him called our lioly founder ; where hi'^
ashes are deposited, and win re his inuige every where meets the eye. This foundation,
as is well known, was in eonstfiuenec of a vow made on the day of the battle of St,
Quentin, at wiiich, howcvc r, Piiilip was not present. It is known also, that he dodiea
ted it to St. Lawrence, on whose festival it h.ippened. In Spain it is called by the name
of this saint (San Lorenzo) and every thing in the Kscurial reminds us of the instru
ment of his martyrdom. It is not only seen upon the doors, windows, altars, rituals
and sacerdotal liaLlis, but the eciifue itself b( ars its Ibrm. It is a (juadrangular build-
ing with the principal IVont to the west, behind which is a mountain; the opposite side
which faces Madrid, takes the form ol tlic shortened handle of a gridiron reversed ; and
the four feet are represented by the spires of four little square towers which rise above
the four angles.
J will not undertake with the abbe de \':;3Tac and Colmenar, to give the number, no
doi'bt exaggerated by him, of all the dt)ors, windows, courts, &c. of this famous con-
vent. In the whole, it certainly has something awful, but it does not perfectly corres-
pond to the idea formed of it, from its reputation. There is nothing magr.ificent in th<.
architecture; on the co.-trary, it has rather tlie serious simplicity suitable to a convent.
than the splentUd elegance which should announce the residence of a great monarch.
The front to the west alone has a line portal formed by large columns of the doric order,
half sunk in the wall, and on each side two great doors of noble dimensions. By this
portal we pass to an elegant square court, at the bottom of which is the church. This
principal entrance is never open for the kings of Sp>ain and the princes of the blood, ex
cept on two solemn occasions. When they come for the first time to the Escurial, and
when their remains are deposited th.ere in the vault which awaits them. Emblem of the
gates of life, and eternity.
On this side, the door of the church is preceded by a fine peristyle ; over the front ol
which are colossal statues of six kings of Israel, which appear as in equilibrii'm upon
their slight pedestals. These six kings had .some share in the founding or rebuilding of
the temple of Jerusalem, as we are informed by the inscriptions upon the base of their
statues. The two in the middle are David and Solomon, to whom the sculptor has
endeavoured to give the likeness of Charles V, and Philip II, his son ; so ingenious at
all times is flattery, availing itself of the slightest resemblances.
The front to the south is entirely destitute of ornament ; but in its four stories, in-
cluding the basement, rendered necessary by the inequality of the ground, there are nearly
three hundred windows. The two great doors of entrance are on the opposite front.
The whole edifice is built ol' hewn stone of a species of bastard granite, which by its
colour, become brown with time, adds to the austerity of the building. The quarry
where it was dug is in the neighbourhood of the Kscurial, and it is said tliat this was one
motive for the choice of its site. It furnished blocks of such considerable dimensions,
that three stones were suflieient to form the chambranle, or case of the greatest door-
ways, and each step of the principal stair-case is compo.sed but of one.
When the court is not at the Jlscurial, it is a vast convent inhabited by two hundred
monks, of the order of St. Hieronlnus. At the arrival of the court the convent is trans-
formed into a palace. Tlic monks are banished to the apartments in the south and west
sides, and the principal cells l)ecome the habitations of the royal flimily, and the nobi-
lity and gentry ot both sexes, by whom it is accompanied. The king himself has his
in the narrow space v inch forms the handle of the gridiron. Philip II, seems to have
wished to make this a retreat, where sovereign greatness might retire to hiele itself
beneath the siiade of altars, and become familiarised to its tomb ; and his successors
a)(>
/lOUUGOANNE {> TUAVi:/,:) l.V S !' A I N .
to tliii. v(j\\ ol' humility, still content themselves with the same modest habitation. It
."lonmiunieates, !)}' a stair-case with the chinch and vestry, in which the arts united iiavc
displayed all tlu ir maf^nificence.
'TIk church is in the I'nrni of a Grecian cross, above \\hich is a dome. The whole
buil<!i;i^M-»:,(s iijion jiillars rather disproportionately thick, within which are scooped out
St \ ( ral alliii s. 'I'he architecture is simple but majestic. Several subjects Iroin holv
writ, ;iiul somi- saercil al!e!j;;orits arc painted in fresco in the dome, by the mai^-ical pencil
of l.tic.a Ciiordario. The f^icat altar, uliiuh lr> asc(..udfd by twenty steps, contains three
diHrnnl oidtrs oi' architecture, one above the other, in the form of a mutilated pyramid :
no exjience has been spared in its decoration. Richness and elcirancc are united in its
tal)erna( Ic. The cohnnns arc of the most pnciousmarble ; the interstices are filled up
with painiinj;s !)y Ltieas Cambiaso and l'cllc,u;rino 'I'ibakli. Yet the whole has some-
thin^',' mean in its appearance, which forms a strikin|]^ contrast with the majesty of the
edilicc. But in revL-n[i;e its two moiuiments are reall) beautiful; these perfectly accord
with the fn-;>t of tlie three orders of which it is composed, that is doric with fluted co-
lumns. The tombs are those of C'hailes \\ and Philip II. 'I'hcsc two sovereigns are
on their knics, and their majesty seems to bend before that of the King of kin;j;s!
'J'liey occupy the fore i)art ol a kind of ope n chamber lined with black marble, by the
^i(le of the altar. There is somethiii|>; at once solemn and pomi)ous in the two monu-
ments. T]iesi)eetator, while contemi)latiii,Li; them, cannot but profoundly reflect on the
vain insit^'nificance of human jTreatness, and the abyss in which it is sooner or later swal-
low ed up. These n flections beccjuie still more serious when applied to two sovereigns,
whose and)ition, during their lives, put the whole world in conunotion, and who arc
now condemned to eternal silence In the only law which they had not the power to
a^•oid.
The l^vo nearest altars, to the high altar are those of the Annunciation and St. Jerome,
these possess attraction for none but devotee sand goldsmiths. Two great doors, upon
which are two indiflerent paintings by Lucas Cambiaso, open and leave the eye dazzled
with innumerable relics in vases, and cases of silver and silver gilt, enriched with
precious stones. There is als(j a large St. Lawrence of solid silver, upon the breast
of which are some relics of this ^Llrlyr which his elisciples, no doubt, saved from the
flames.
The church contains also some good paintings by artists of the second order, but in
the two vestries, masler-pieces of painting are displaycel in such profusion as even to
\' eary the admiration of connoisseurs. In the first, which is badly lighted, arc three pieces
by Paul Veronese, one by Titian, two by Tintoret, one by Rubtns, and one by Espagno-
let. The j)rinciixil vestry contains a much greater number, and is sufficient of itself to give
a sanction to the fame, which the I"'.scurial enjoys. We shall content ourselves with no-
ticing the pieces w hich will strike those the least accustomed to value the productions of
the arts. That w Inch has the greatest cflect is the altar-piece, by Claude Coello, a Por-
tuguese, otherwise little known. It retraces a scene, of which the vestry was the
theatre. Charles II, accompanied by the nobility :jf his retinue, is represented on his
knees before the holy sacrament, held by the prior of the monastery ; the monarch went
thither i)ublicly to sniolicate pardon for the profanation of a host, lacerated by impiouB
hands, and revenged by a miracle. And although it be far from the best piece, there
is none which leaves a greater impression upon vulgar minds. Real connoisseurs, and
those who are dazzled b\ great names, prefer a fine holy Virgin by Guido ; two paint-
ings by Vandyck, one the woman taken in adultery, the other St. Jerome naked to
the middle, and writing as he is dictated to by an angel, w hose freshness of complexion
IJoUliC;'' AN N l.'S lI(.\Vl:i,3 1\ il'AIN.
nri7
jtroduci. >! tlic most iigrccablc contrast uitli the sallow skin of the ac,'ccl saint. A lar^i
picture by Tinorct, in which this painter has incUili^ad all the caprice of his imaicination,
in giving a representati(;n of the Lord's sii])per, An as-unnption l)y Annihal C.irracci ;
several pieces l)y Titian, two of which ;ire adniirahle for the colonring, one a St. SlIjus
liiin of the natural si/.e, and the other our Sa\ioin' (lis|)uting with a doctor of the law ;
three by Raphael ; one called the pearl, on account of its superior excellence, is a hol\
family, in nhich the infant Jesus has a grace, u justness of ex|)ression, and an exactness
of drawing which belongs only to this great master ; and another, the visitation, in which
the modesty of the virgin, and her embarrassment on appearing before I-^li/abeth with tlu
unexpected and already apparent signs of her pregnancy, cannot be too nuich admired.
Less celebrated artists have also contriinited to the decoration of the vestry. I shall
mention but two : the chevalier Maxime and Romanelli. The lirst has exhibited the
i)eauty of Guido's forms in the painting whcc Christ dis|)ules in the temple with the
doctors, and the graces and .sweettiess uf the j)Lni.il of Albano appear in that of the
latter; the Virgin seated, caressed by her only infant, and St. John the baptist. It ma_\
be imagined, without my sa}ing it, that this vestry contains, in large drawers, sacerdotal
ornamints, chandeliers, sacred vases and the like, of tiie richest description, which illus
trate the magnificence of the kings of Spain more than their jjivty.
The same observation may be made on the pantheon, their sepulchre, to which a door
in the passage from the church to the vestry opens. 'I'he staircase is entirely covered
with marble, as is also the inside of the pantheon. This is divided into several cham
bers, each of which has its particular distinction. One of them is what is called the
podridero, or the rotting place. Here the bodies of the kings and the royal family are
delivered up to the fn-st ravages of corruption. The bodies of the princes and prin-
cesses of Sjiain, w ho h ive not reigned, are deposited in aricnher. It is in this august and
dismal assembly that the duke of \'endomc is placed, as was M. de Turennc at St.
Denis, among the remains of our kings. 'I'his I ascertained irom the register of the
monastery, in which I found an account of his remains being brought thither, the 9lli of
September 1712. -«.
The real pantheon serves as the last asylum for the kings and (luccns of Spain alone.
A few rays of half extinguished light with dilHculty peULirate this cold abode. To sup-
ply the defect, a superb lustre, pendant from the eupcjla, is lighted up on extraordinary
occasions; but except in these cases the curious are conducted by a flambeau into the
middle of this motionless and silent assembly of sovereigns. By the unsteady light of
the flambeau we discover, opposite the door by which we enter, an altar and a crucifix
of black marble ui)on a pedestal of porphyry. The rest corresponds to this melancholy
magnificence. The cases ^vhich contain the bodies of tlic kings and queens are placed
on each side of the altar, in three stories, and in dillerent compartments, formed by
fine fluted pilasters of marble ; the cases are of bronze, simple, yet noble in their
form. The pantheon is not yet full, but the empty eases are ready to open to receive
their deposits. A salutary yet terrible lesson, which kings have not refused to receive
from the bold designs of an able architect.
Philip II, reposes in the most elevated tomb of the first division. He it was who laid
the foundation of the panthccm; but it was not finished till the reign of Philip IV. It
has yet been open but to three sovereigns of the house of Bourbon, the young king
Louis I, who ascended the throne in 1724, and died the same year, and (piecn Amelia,
wife of Charles III, and Charles III, himself Pnilip V, and his queen are interred at
St. Ildefonso; Ferdinand VI, and queen Barbara his wife, at Madrid, in a convent
which they had founded.
.V43
HOtnir.OANNli'n rHAVELU i.N ai'AlN.
The following well-known line cannot be iipplicd to this temple of death :
Le temps, qui detruit tout, tn afllrmit les mur3.*
The ravage of time, seconded by the damps, has not spared even the marble. Here
we are at onee led to reflect on the frailty of man, whatever his rank, and the perishable
nature of those works, which in his pride he dared to consecrate to immortality.
The choir of the monks of the Kscurial is above the great door of the church, and
opposite the high altar. The walls are decorated widi paintings in fresco, the subjects
of which have relation to St. Jerome and St. Lawrence. The puljHt, notwithstanding
its enormous si/.e, turns upon a pivot with surprising facility. Behind the choir is a
master-pitee of sculpture ; a Christ in marble, of the natural size ; it is the work of
Benvenuto Cellini, by whom the constable dc Bourbon was killed upon the walls oi
Rome.
From the sides of the choir begins a galli ry w hich runs along the two fronts of the
church, and communicates by four doors to ib.e first story of the monastery ; it is inter-
sected l)V several spaces between the joints and pillars which support the congregation.
Thither I frequently went, that \ might feel those sensations, which the minds of jjcrsons
the least devout are' susceptible of at the solemn aspect of a temple. That of the Kscurial
disposes one more than any other to such meditations. Its mass, the solidity of which
has already survived its founder, who sleeps within its walls, ahriost two centuries, and
will survive him for tw enty more ; the memory of this imperious monarch, which for a
long time past receives no other tribute there than funeral prayers, and whose shade is
supposed to wander in this melancholy monument of his fear and his piety ; the volume
of u hundred voices making the roofs echo w ith the praises of the eternal Being ; all
these dispose the mind to that serious reflection, w hich is far more pleasing to the soul
than the giddy dissipations of the w orld.
But let us fmish the description of the other beauties contained within the Escurial.
On leaving the gallery, one of which is on each side the church, we pass a long corridor,
called The Hall of Battles, because the paintings represent several between the ancient
kings of Spain and the Moors. The attitudes, dresses, and lively colouring excite the
admiration of all connoisseurs.
I cannot, however, avoid mentioning the two great cloisters : they are paved with
marble, and are excellently proportioned. The paintings in fresco of the lower cloister
are, perhaps, more extolled than the}- deserve. In seeking for the effects of perspec-
tive, and brilliant colouring, one meets with disappointment ; but the admirer of heads
full of expression, and the great and vigorous forms of the school of Michael Angelo,
will return more than once to examine the principal events of the life of our Saviour,
painted in almost colossal figures by Pellegrino Tibaldi, round the cloister.
Both the cloisters are entered by narrow and obscure corridors. The chief defect in
ihe architecture of the Escurial, is that, in general, the principal objects are not placed
so as to have the best effect. The portal and great staircase are seen but by accident.
There is a fine inner court ornamented with tw o row s of arches, of a simple but noble
style of architecture ; the centre is occupied by a small temple, which is perhaps the most
regular piece of architecture in the Escurial : but it seems to hide itself' from the eyes of
the curious.
The great cloister below, which communicates with the capitulary hall, is hung with
several paintings by Titian, and one by Velasquez, representing the sons of Jacob bring-
* Time which destroys all things, has fjjivcn strength to its walls
iior i!f, n \ \' v I;
r r; a \ r.
i\
, i' A I .s ,
.yh9
Here
inf< him tin lloody pj.irmmt f»f llun- [jrothcr .l(>'.i])!i, a paiiitiiip^ tlic rtticl ol swiirli is
:iclniir;i!jlc ; iMirj^iii I)}' H;ipli;((.l; a St. .h rom \)\ Ciiu nliiim ; thrci.' pices by Uu'ijiv.v
niid tliric l)y Spiif^fimU ito. Biit the pii-ccs most to be iKhniivdiu the ( a])ltulary li;i!I, an
three nui.st(;rl\ paintiiif^s \)y Oiiido.
The f;iMiu,l c;l(/ist(.r b(.lf)\v has ;i comiininicatioii willjtln.' old church ot the iiiona^li. n
This as Will contains some paiiitini^s worthy oratlciitiou ; several b\' 'J'iiiaii ; thixe b}
Spa«;iioletto remarkable for beauty ot" colourings ihhI one, be Jliphael, which, I"
its beauty, nobleness ol' its figures, eorreetniss oi' ihauinj^", and c\cry excellence tha.
characterises the ininiitabic talent of this f;rtat mas'cr is supcri(.<r to all. I ha\c ;icen
connoisseurs view it with trans])ort, and shed tears ol' admiralinn, lieiurc this sublime
inaslcr-piccc, without these delicious impressions beini^ weakened by tlu fantastical wuou
of persons it presents; th' scare the \'ir,Li,in Mary, Christ, and St. Jeroni in a carelinal's
habit, reaelinj^ totluni tin: biljle, whili; the an,L;;cl Kapliael iiitroJuces to the div.ue group
youn^ Tobit, ad\aia;in;;' widi a timid air to i)resent his fish. The last circumstance ha>-
given this jjiccc the ai)pellalion ol' Madonna eh.l Vu^ (our lady of the fish.* ) It is ii'.
conceivable how the t;enius of I'aphael coulel ste)op to this straiiLiC composition, un
doubtcdly prii^wjibe him, and yet in the cMeciition leave no marks of such compulsion.
If his exejuisitc taste was not disgusted In a dissonance which shocks the least delicate,
what becomes of the rules of art, and the' prcee|)ts (jf reason '?
Kven after adnuring the Madonna del V^7., one- may look with delight on ih" .'luperl;
piece of Titian (the last supi)er) w liieh takes up the w hole breadth of the refectory of the
monks.
In the upper cUiister, among some paintitigs, not a!)o\e mediocrliv, we may notice a
few by Spagnoletto, one parlieularly which represenls .Faeob guareling his Hocks, and
one by Navarettc, known by the name of the duml), anel whom Philip II, called the
Titian of Spain,
The staircase which leads from the lo\'.er to the upper cloister, nuist not be passed
over in silence. The four sides of the fri^^e and the ceiling arc painted in fresco by
Giordano, and represent the battle of St. Quintin, the accomplishment of tlic vow of
Philip II, and the arrival of that monarch at the celestial court.
On the first landing-place of the staircase there are little cloisters, which lead to the
library of the Escurial, less remarkabif; for th^' number of volumes it contains than for
the choice of them, and more particidarly the Arabic and Greek maimscripts. Art is
exhausted in its dee;oration ; and if there be a defect, it is perhaps in its being too much
ornamented. Every vacant space is filled w ith paintings ; the ceiling, which is vaulted,
is ornamented with Arabesques and figures for the most part colossal. Tibaldi, the
master of Michael Angelo, has here displa} ed the Ire cjuently exaggerating vigour of his
pencil ; his fc^rced attitudes resemble contortions ; his Ibrjns are v o great as to become
gigantic and almost monstrous; the shelves which contain ilie books, and which are oi
precious wood, beautifully carved, appear trifling by the colossal figures of Tibaldi.
Above the shelves are paintings in i'resco by Barthelemi Carducho, w hieh also sufter from
the cause already mentioned ; the subjects are taken from sacreel or profane history, oi
have relation to the sciences of which the shelves beiow present us wid» the elements.
Thus the council of Nice is represented abo^ e the books w hieh treat of dieole)gy ; the deadi
of Archimedes at the siege of Syracuse, indicates those which relate to matln'matics, Sec.
The middle of the library is occupied by globes and tables ; upon one of the latter is
a small eciuestrian statue of Philip 1\', upon another, a little temple of solid silver, orna-
• The- e-ni^riivingof this piece, published in 17S2 by Scliua, one of ihc niosi;ii)Ii- urlisis in Spain, i>i\('-
but a faint itleu of the m.Mc appc^mmcc unci hurinony of the cliavactcrs in thi- niai^-niliccnt puinunir
vol.. V. T) I!
>vu
iioi;n.,o.vitNi;'ii /n.wtr.r. in gi-ain
incr.tid uith lapis hu'-iili aiu! jmrions stoms. Hound thrsc arc raiif^cd all the anros.
tors orAiui Niiiboi ,<, nil'i (tf C'liarks II.
Ill tlKiiit(rvalsl)Cl\V(iii the slulvis arc portraits of CharKs V, and of tliL' thrir Phi
iips his siircissors to the throm- ofSpain. Yc philosophers, who, after havini^ read v.lr.ii
I have writtdi, shall visit this library, stnj) before the portrait of Philip II, painted v ith
'^reat exactness hv I'antoja de la CriiV, ; contemplate his }j;rave and austere physio|ruom.\ .
and you will read an abrid.irment of die history of hisrcijjfii; but coinnuniicale not the
rrsuft of vour n flections to the monks who accompany you, this would be a bad re
turn for tlie oblii^intj reception \ou will meet with. Should you brinij; prejudices widi
you to the Kseurial aj^ainst the Spaniards in }reiKral,or, what would be more excusable,
iijj;ainst the monks in partictdar, jou will certainly lay them aside, after having i)asstda
cpiarter of an hour with the Jeronymites of this monastery ; you will be convinced that,
even under the reli;j;ious habit, the" Spaniard IVe(piently conceals much complaisance and
real j^oodncss of heart. For the truth of what 1 here'say, I may apjjcal to two learned
Danes, who arrived at the JCscurial in 17H3 to satisfy tlieir learned curiosity, aiul who
were perfectly well received by the monks, notwithstanding the dillerence of their man-
ners, languat;e, and religion. * ' 'J'hey were lodged in the convent, and provided with
every thing thev could wish with tlie most getierous hospitality AH the treasures oi
the library were 'opened to them, and they passed two months in examininjjand making-
extracts i'rom such nvanuscripts as excited their curiosity.
The obliging generosity they e:;perl( need on this occasion was the more rcinarkable,
as the manuscripts entrusted t(Uheir inspection were then unknown toUit public, except
by a few extracts given of them by a Spaniard, named Cassiri, in two volumes in folio,
Which arc far from completing the extensive plan the monk proposed to himself. After
his death, thty were consigned to another of the fathers of the Mscurial.
The manuscripts arc not kept in the great liiirary, which is o])en to all comers every
morning and evening during the stay of the court, but in a large hall above, always sluit
up : and to which all the books proscribed by the Spanish orthodoxy are sent. The
portraits of such natives of Spain as have distinguished Uiemselves in the sciences, arts,
or in litvruture arc hung round the hall, ;md the number of die learned in Spain is more
considerable than out of that country is generally conceived.
In the library of the Escurial the books are placed the contrary way, >.o that the edges
of the leaves are outwards and contain their titles written on them. I Risked the reason
for this custom ; and was told that ^\rius Montanus, a learned Spaniard of the six-
teenth centurv, whose librar\ had served as a foundation f(jr that of the Kseurial, had all
his books placed and inscribed in that manner ; w hich no doubt appeared to hini to be
the most commodious method of arranging them ; that he had inlroducecl his own
method into the Kseurial ; and, since his time, and for the sake of uniformity, it had
been followed with respect to the books afterwards added. Tliis explanation proves
nodiing but the oddity of one man, and an attachment, common to most men, to esta-
blished customs, especially when in diemselves they are almost indifterent.
In a small room adjoining die great upper cloister one is delighted with an annuncia-
lion, by Paul Veronese ; a nativit}-, by Tintoret ; a descent from the cross, and a St.
Margaret, frightened by the apparition of a dragon, by Titian ; but more esi)ecially one
by the same inaster, w Inch is called the glory of Titian, either on account of its excellence,
• Mr. Moldcnhuv.cr. at present Chief Librarian at the Royal Lil)rary of Copenhagen, and Mf
Tychsen, Fiotlssor of the University of GoUinsdi- Uo^li '>:ivc enriched German literature withtlic
truit? of their labour in the Esiurial.
niJUltCiOA VN 1.
n< A\ fc 1 :. in M'lWS.
UJ
or Ivrausc it rcprc«^,ciits C'li:irli s \', and riiilij. II, admitted to rt-lcsiud r;lor\ , in pn-scncc
of iIk' I'liiuipal patri; iclis fj| ilic iinci' ii! l.ivv.
A small (,il/nKt adjoiiiiiij; to this hall (•oiitaiiis si-vcral rclirs, one of the minculous
urns at tin; inarria!,^: ol Cana, an old manusf.ript of tho lifi' of St. TluTi-sa, Mrittcii hy
horstif, hr.
Shall i ytf spf.ak of sfviral clu f il'd-inrts which arc scin on dcsrrntiinp; I'om the
kinf^'s apartment to the church? of a dcscmt from tlx- cross, hy S,v.^(nolLtto ; and a
lan^a- picture ripn siiitini^ Lot and his danj^ditc rs, one f)f thr most s"ii;iii)Mn ti^e Kscu-
rial, by thechevilier Maxinu'; of niiodur much suriiler, hy Heiilv ns, in which seven!
martyr," are lironjud in sn|)pliant altitudes roiuid tlie throne of the \'ir!,,^in.
'riii.s last jiiice is phM-ed near ilu small saloon, and fac' s the door of thi' apartment,
acrordiii<;to the tr.uiition of the mou isM'v, in which the imtorlimaie Don (Jarlos lost his
life ; not hy order o( I'hilip II, hul hv starviii;j: himself to (h atii throus^di despair; a cir-
cumstance, it ''^^'"il' "^''^'^ more at'rihntahle to tlie vir)Ience of his uutractable character
than tho sevi rity of !iis father. It is not, how ever, in the Ksrurial that the true account
ol aMans:icti(jp, whuh stamps wiili honor the memory of its holy founder, can reasonably
be expected to be met e, itli.
I should IK ver iinish, were I to di'scribe all the ciu-i'-us p.iinrinp;s in tlie Kscurial.
Those who wish lor a more complete nomenclatin-e of the curiosities of the monastery,
called by some the cifrhth wondir of the world, may consult the description, in folio,
given of it by Tather XmKi.ez, one olits monks, and the wDrk of the abbe I'ons, a lover
of the fmc arts who died latdy, and who, in tlie sevenlien volumes of his Travels iu
Si>ain, hascfjisecrated one entirely to a description of the I'.seurial. AN'hat I ha\e said
is sutlicientto inforuj my readers, that it is to its rich collection of pictures the Kscurial
owes its rei)utaiioii ; and that il' it were despcjiled of this part of its ric^hes ; if the court
should not come to reside there every year, with its train, the l''.scurial would be iiothint^
more than a };reat convent, much more strlkini; from its mass and solidity, than the
magnificence of its decorations.
It lias a narrow terrace on each side, whence the eye commands, towards the east, a
very extensive but littU; varied prospect. The abbe de N'ayrac and Colmenar particu
larly s])eak of its extensive park. I''or my part, I saw nothiui:; in the environs but thinly
planted woods fidl of rocky eminences, intersected with meadows, which are seldom
green, and stocked with innumerable herds of deer, but no inclosure, no park, according
to our acceptation of the word; in short, nothing presenting that a[>peurancc of grandeur
and magnificence, which we naturally expect should accompany a royal mansion.
From the terrace you descend by steps cut in the side to a garden neither large nor
handsome; not even carefully cultivated. At the end of the terrace, to the west, is an
out-house adjoining to the grand edifice, but of a more elegant architecture. It commu-
nicates behind with a new building, parallel to the principal front of the convent, and
which comprises the sleeping rooms of the Casade los Infantes.
This building, placed inmiediately at the foot of the mountains, and fronting the w iuds
which force their way through the narrow passes, contributes to cheek their violence.
It, however, does not prevent their efleets from being very perceptible, especially
during the season w hich the court passes at the I'.scurial. They are the more trouble-
some from their passing along the iront to the north, and impetuously sweeping the
oblong sjjace which sepaiates it from the apartments allotted to tlie ministers, and
some of the clerks in oHicc, and which you are obliged to cross to go from the convent
to the village. If the exaggerated accounts given to strangers arc to be believed, thcs'^
3 a '2
W'm
J72
■unt/lir.OAN.VL'u rRAVlif..-, IN 'JPAIV.
furious winds not only stop those who art walk in;^ tf)w.ir(]s tliini, make thnn sta^'^cr
ami somctinii s throw them dou ii, l)iit they l)Io\\ with siu h violi iii«. ai^aiiist the (Mrriaf^C'
statioiud Ixiore thi' palarc, as sometinus tf> r< nioxe tlutu Ironi their places. I, how-
ever, have never met with any of these wfjnderlnl i xhihitionsin n>y dill" rent visits to this
place, although on this walk ealUd lianja, leadinjj,- i'roni the e(jM\eiil to the \illa}^e, there
are frerjuent whirlwinds; to do away the inconvtuiiiuie of which lu fool passenj^ers, a
ft w years af^o a siihterraneons and vaulterl giillery of hewn stone v.'as coiislnicted, called
La Nlina, wliieh rnns nnderthe whole ceilin<j; slultered by this inipeuetrahle roof, one
may brave ilie fury of the elements in all weatlurs, and disre^J;ard the uiuds which roar
above one's head. Tiie idea is said to have Ik in [.fiven by M. dt Massone.s, aj^randec
of Sj).iin, who died soon after the j^allery was fmished, antl whom ne have seen ambas.
sador in France, after havinj^ atteiuled the congress of Aix la Chajjelle, which brought
him into notice. This is a mode of obtaininf^ celebrity at easy expence.
The situation of the Kscnrial renders the walks in the environs painful; you may
wander \\ itii pleasure, ht)wever, in a valley between tin: front to the south and a moun-
tain, w Inch f)pposes to it its hi,i;h ;• ,1 W( ody top. The ine(|uality of the }j;roinKl pro-
duces fresh prospects at e\ei) step, and I'avours iIk rapid fall of several rivulets which
meander through the copses.
A pleasing melancholy creeps over one listening lo the distant murmurs of these rills,
wliich are hi ightened by the rustling of the trees, often rutlely tre;ilt d by the north wind ,
to these are ;idded the hollow bellings of the deer, \\hichin rutting time restlessly wan-
der mider their sluides. This valley slopes in a gentle descent from the Ca;:ino of the
infant Don (labiiel to th ' built In the present king when prince of Asturias. These
two little houses arc fitted up within with more elegance thiui could be expected from
t]\('ir modest eMerior. That especially called the Prince's, contains some oi' the richest
and most highly linislied sculpture, gilding, joinery, and locksmith's work that can be;
(.'harles I\', eolleeted there a great number of paintings, some of which with respect to
their si/2eand suljject, might be belter placed elsewhere than in this pleasing habitation ;
die heads of the apostles, for example, melancholy protiuctions of Spagnoletto whose
pencil seems t(^ have been exclusi\ ely employed on penitentiary subjects. This palace
in miniature would be far better furnished, were no other pieces kit than cheerful land-
scapes, some of the best paintings of Madrid of a small size, and the two sea pieces by
Veniet, of which Louis XVI, a few years ago made a present to the prince of Asturias,
\\]\o testified a desire of possessing at least some of the productions of tliat grand master,
riuse are not the only ones ; \'ernct painted the whole of the paniiels of a cabinet, tiie
dimensions of which were sent to him by tiie prince. The inimitable talent of Xernet
is conspicuous in them all, and if posterity should I)e ignorant of their being painted in
1782, they will be thought to be the productions ol' his priim-.
The little lodge of the infant Don (iabriel, which his Ijrother Don Antonio now inha-
bits, is less than that of the prince his brother, and not so much ornamented. It had
three or four of the best pieces of Spagnoletto, especially a St. Peter, remarkable for ac-
curacy and expression, though it might be more admired in anotb.er place. But none
would banish from the collection two heads, one by Corregio, the other by Murillo,
both of ex(|uisite grace and softness. The infant Don (jabrici, as much as possible in
A prince, who united the knowledge of a connoisseur and the zeal of an amateur, not sa-
tisfied with encouraging the arts, cultivated them himself, and hung with drawings by
the greatest masters one of the cabinets of this lodge.
"lOUKCO ANNli's TRAVLIS |V jV.\tS'.
.7;i
( HAI'TKK VIII.
WALK (M.l.r.tl If l'lt»|)ll inn \M( i.AMOrV <»UIV| I !)► VAH'II\I. liriDUV AlAUk.MV
«K IHK. I INI. \uis nil; ri \/,* ^I^MIH
VVI''. will MOW take kavr fil' the rocks, tlu- mountains, and j^'loomy btautles of the
Ksciirial, and (oiKliict tlic niuKr lo Madrid liy one of the* Hntst roads, ii is true, luit
across one of the most harii n countriis in I'.uropc, There is, ho\v» ver, as we descend
from the hill on which the monaster} stands, a small forest of heeth, which affords an
Hf^recable prospect. To the end of die rei|j;n of Charles III, inimim ralile herds of staffs,
which paid but littli' attention to the noise ( if carriaj^es passiiif,', wire seen firdini^ ainon^r
horses and oxen. Startled by a false ahinu they were seen to fde off, bounding belorr
the traveller, whom they appeared to eh.illenf^e to the eonrsc. The measures ailoptcd
by Charles IV, have lessened their number and increased their tinr lity. In passing
through the forest between the tnes si vi ral ponds are discovericl, wliosc rural banks in-
vite to contemplation ; farther on a solitary house offers an asylum to lost u;'.iulere»s.
This is the farm-house of the monks of the I'.sciirial, whom, in spite of their affability.
1 cannot forgive enjoying such hurtful opulence. Vceording to a caleulalion, the ex
actness of which cannot be suspected, thiir aiuuial revenues amount to U[)wards uf seven
hundred thousand livres (above 29,0001.)
After having (juitted this forest we meet with no more trees until we approach the
Manzanare.s. This very small river runs at some distance from the foot of the heights
upon which Madrid is situated. It is almost always shallow enough to allow carriages
to ford over. There are, however, two great liridges over it, thai of Segovia, and that
of Toledo. The former, built by Phili[) II, is so disproporlioned to tlu' breadth of tin
Manzanares, as to have caused that remark which attention would convince an observe)
is greatly out of place ; that fine bridge rjuly wants a river. At the bottom it merits nei
ther the praise nor the point of the epigram. The apparently disproportionate dimen-
sions of many bridges beside this in Spain have a \ery reasonable origin. Spain is inter
sectedin almost ever}- direction by long chains of mountains, whose summits, notwith-
.standing the heat of the climate, are fre{|uenily covered with snow ; the rivulets, and the
rivers which descend from their sides, have usually but a small stream of water, because
droughts are fre(|uent in the provinces through which they run ; but when abundant
rains, or the melting of the snow increase their volume, the beds of the rlvirs are tht
more extended for their not being deep, and filling with sand ; to answer which circum-
stance, although it seldom occurs, the dimensions of their bridges are calculated. They
are solidly constructed on account of the sudden risings of the rivers, and their apparentlv
disproportionate length is to obviate the inconvenience which might arise from an over-
flow ing. Whole ages and nations must not be accused of ignorance and stupidity, be-
cause we cannot at first discover the' reason for certain customs and practices.
Madrid makes a good appearance on entering it from the Escurial. After liaving
passed the Manzanares, we proceed along a part of a fine road, planted n ith trees, which
leads from the capital to Pardo, a royal mansion about two leagues from Madrid, where
the court resided during the reign of Charles III, for two or three m j.uhs in the year,
but which his successor but seldom freepients, to shoot in the woods about tl)is mournful
chateau. The road rutis for some time along the banks of the Manzanares, and on the
opposite side we sec an ancient country residence of the kings of Spain, the Cas i di'l
Cumpo, but whicl. has been neglected by the family of Hourbon.
>74
HOVH'.t> \.N Mi
IHAVl.l.:. IN Sk'UV.
The ^iUv oi St. \iii«'it>t, by wliicli \vc niter, K tj< \v and tf)li'nil)ly tl<'|';,uii. WoalUt
wauls usL'ciul with mnch ihliuiiUy to the imI.icc, which st.llK^nl^' alone ii|)(iii an t mi-
nonci-, viihont lilhirtcrract.', park, or ^-a^(Kn, has r.ithir thi'apptaranci* ol a ciiadchhaii
that ol It residence r^i' onr or the most pouirinl nionarehs hi the world; hut as we up
proat h, it striki s one dilR riiidy . Its litrni is ahiiust s>|nare, and tliere is a spaeions court
iM the iniiUI!e, around uhieh are lari^e pia/./.as. Tlu- apaitinent) anil olliecsol' the priniti
pat piisons oi the court are upon the ^Toinid lloor, uhii:h they wholly occupy. .\ fiin
niarMe stair-ease Kads to ll'.o Hrst story, tiie sidis ol which an; richly dccdraled. Tin.
kin;','s iipartniuits arc ol' the most ma};iiirnenl tlimensions. 'I'he hall, in which the
thritiu is plact (I [y.l salon de los revuos) niay hi admired evi-n hy thoie who have seen
the j;allcry ol NersailleH. ThediHuent dnsscsol'ihc Spanisii monarchy ure painted it
lit. -.10 upon the ceiling hy a \'eiKtian naini'd 'i'icpolo. Fine \ascs, little statues, ;ind
amiipie busts are disuibiiled upon all the l.tblcs. Almost the uhoK' ol' the ornaments
are ol' Spanish production, 'llie Icjokini^.i^lasses, perhaps the Iarp;est in Murope, v.erc
manui'ii tinid at St. lUUlonso, as will as the i;l\ss of the windows. The t ipestry was
mule in a iniinuljetory near tliej;at*.s olMadnd; and the iiu \hansliblc and \arici;aled
(jnin iis (>1 the peuinsnla tnrnisliid marble lor tlii' tablis and iloors.
The apartment adjoinin>;' is that in which the kiu}^' dines. Mengs, w!io painted the
ei iliii)';, the stibjci t ol" which is the assi inblj of ilic j^cidsanil Lcoddcsses on Olympus, has
displiMcl .ill that ricli and brilliant eoiowriu:;' lor whidi he is admired. i)m'in<^ ilicsum
le.ir, the portraits of I'itilip 11, l'hiii|) 111, and his(|nccn, Philip IN, and the dnkc d'Oii
\ari./, all on horseback, paiiucd by \'ilas(|Ue/, and those ol' I'hilip \ , and the cpiccn
Isalulla larmsc, his second wile, b) C'harks \'anlr)o, arc snbstiliilid lor the ta|)cstr\ .
It is iii'l iicc» ss.ir\ to be a connoisseiu' t<j be struck with the astonisliiiii;' superiority of
the lirst of these. The line form oi' the horse of I'hiiip IV, its spirit, and the firm pos-
tme (/f liisbf;d\ , are aboveallprai.se.
'I"liis aparlnii nt opi ns into that win rein llie kiiiii; ;^i\es audience. The ceilin};, which
reprismts the apoilkosis ol llercuKs, is a mastir-piccc ol .Mcn}j,s. His last paiiuinj^, on
.•.liieh he was im|)lo)cd at Rome whm the line arts and his Iriends wiie deprived of
him b\ death, is pl.iced in the sauic a|)ar;itKnl ; it is an annunciation. The X'ir^in has
.m admirable I Npression ol modest) and sweetness; but one laments the an^cl Gabriel
should not ha\e a counlenaiiee and .ittitnde more suitable to his nussaL^e. There is,
moreoxir, in this apartmmt a laijjie pniintintj; by the same master, the adoration ol the
.shcphirds, in which the men, women, andcinidren are linisiied pieces, equally beautifid
.lud lull ol I xiJivssion. His works compusal the principal decoration ol' die Inil-cham-
"lA-r ol Charles 111, who was iKiie^htcd w»ih the protluetions of tliis eminent painter. His
desecnt from the cross, hoxvevcr, m the f>pinioii <jf connoisseurs, eclipses e\ery thinc^else.
The eye is never tired witli conlem|j|atiM.t'; the deep and tender f^rief of the beloved dis-
ciple; the sublime aiiitnde c^f the \ n>tin, who in tUspair expects no comfort lor her
sorrows but in heaven ; and the softer, but not more aliectini^ailliction of the .Mat^dalen,
\\ho prescr\es ail her charms in the midst of the i^ciural grief; and lastly, the body of
C'hri.st, whichalriend of the author, the chevalier .Vxara, perfectly cjiialilied to judj^e of
what he speaks, |>ron(nmces to be admir.ible, lor the truth, the divme appearance, and
beaut}- ol die llesh, which, unlike other painters, Men^shas not presented torn and dis-
coloured from U>uir sidlering.
The chamber next to thai in which the throne is placed, is entirely filled widi admi-
rable paintings ol the Italian school. Among more than a doj^en capital pictures of
'J'itian, is a Venus blindtoiding the: eyes of Love ; and its com[)aiuon, the subject of
wh.ich is two females of exijuisiio bt.uuty^ widi a warrior between lliem erect, a copy cjf
jjnl'W0O\MM
J « W t ;, ;: IN J r A I N .
$T4
wliu.li IS Mi iIk MiisiKfn at I'aiis: W mis at lur tf)IUt'L , a Sisyplms , a Promt tluiis,
411(1 .il)<)\ r iIk risl, a paiiitiii}; of Atl iin aiul l'",\» , \\ hit li has lur its ( oiiifMiiinii llu; ('((in
wWuh Huln lis made from it, but « hit It, in iht. opinion ol Minj;s, mt^hI only to makt
more coiis|>i(Mi)»is ihc inimital)lf t \iiIU lui'or tht ori|;inal. Two pi'tni •>\t\ I'anl \ t.
roinsf, stMr.ilby lia'-san, antl a .hulith hy 'rintoixt, an sttn with pUasiirc in tht.- sanii
thaml)ir ; aiitl in the m .\l .ipailtmnta li w \)\ Ltita ( iitiitlaint, and oni hy Spa^nolcttf/
'I'hc MUdtdii:^ aj).irttmtu is in lila iiianmr hiiiii; with pi(tur(Si partitnlarly two
adiuiraMi- pim s hy \\las(|iK ;•,, oiu' tif whii h it prcst nts tht lorj^x; ol \ ult an, the otiu i
a Spani^h utiKi.iI, to wlmm die la \ sol a cii\ mv ^'istn up.
In the ailjoiniii|^ iipartimnt.s, amon^; a ^^nal luimhtr ol' paiiitin|j;s hv tht.' first mnslcr.>,
art. iu» iid(>rati(in l)\ Hnbuisi, and a tarrj iii|j; ol" tin truss \n HaphacI, which alone an
worth a colli ttion. In thf tirst Uulnns has displaud all ihf ma'^ic of his ptinil, his
richmssol draper), and all tht; maj:;ni licence of cttmpi'sliion. It i-. iinposNililc in.t l<'
he striiik hy the nohle air and graiitUiir oloneol the kin^s. llisearri.ij^f, attituile, and
rctinne seem tt) announce him conunissiontd by the unixirse id cnnf;ratulate its disin-
uulhor upon an ivent t>r snt h im|)orlanee to all mankind; but tht |)aintin;^^ ol K, phat I
inspires sentiments more alVeefmj;, though not less sublime. The Sa\ iour of the \\t)iKl
sinking beneath the weight of his cross rather than that ol his grief, antl preserxing ia
the midbt tif his pi rst tutors, who force him along and ill-treat liim, a resignation and
serenity which would disarm cruelly itself; ap|)earing less cfjncernitl lor his own suli'er-
ings, than earnest inendeavouring to console his atllicted mother, who strives to soften
his persecutt)rs, and the supplicating women who are overcome with grief for his file.
The impressioi; w hit h results from these tw o great compositions, rencK rs the mind almost
insensible to the beauties of the odier p;iinlings of Titian, X'andyck, Uaphael himself,
indtven ol' little master-pieccsof Corregio.
There are paintings of a dillert nt kind in the late apartments of the infanta, '■ Maria
Josephine, sister to the king; this is the profane side ol tin p;'lac.i tif Madrid. Inllie first
thaniber is one by (litirdano, in imitation of Kubens, it represents the |)ainttr himself
working at ihv portrait of a princess ; there are also several voluptuous paintings by this
master of the Memisli sclujol ; a combat t)f gladiators, in w hich the vigour ol LmlrancN
pencil iseas.il} disctnered; and a capital piece by Pom.sin, the subject of which forms
a singular contrast to the devotional paintings of w Inch we have alreatly spt)ken. This is
.1 dance ('termed In' a trtjoj) of nMn[)hs about the statue of the god of gardens ; the va-
riety of ilkir expressive aiid grace I'nl atliludts, tht ir easy shape, and the beauty of their
ft)rm, all breathe the pleasures of jfjuth ;indlo\e ; some ciown with garlantls the statue
of the last i\i(nis god, t>ihers — but we will draw a veil o\er this part of the painting, which
the moelesly of the i);:iiiler Ims pur|>osi 1\ jdaetti in the shade'.
The atljoining apartments are lilUtl widi paintings ol less merit, if we e.\eept a grand
composititMi by Paul \ ertiuese, and a piece l)y Lanfranc.
The dining-room ol' the infanta is highly embellished by the indefatigable pencil of
Luca (iiorehino, w honc lertlie imagination astonishes at first, but ends w ith fatiguing. In
a cabinet atljoining to the tlining-room are also some pieces In Kubens, antl tjiie of the
best portraits ol Titian ; that of Charles \ , of natural size it) the knees. An t ngraviiig
was lately made from it by a young man of MadritI, named Selma, who promiset. to be-
come an excellent artist.
1 could \et mention many other paintings conlained in the apartments lately occupied
by the two infants, brothers to the king, particularly some by Kubens, in which his
'Tills infuiitii (lictliu 1801 : thf bhnpiici'y of her niuimors atitl her bi-ycvole'iicf h.ive mutlc her iii^i-
vcrsiiUy rf^'rtttttl.
L
»f»
ijor«'.o.\VNF. n inwrifi im .•.r,\iN.
K^ln.i ,i tj| i '^'.f)ur, and his livrlituhs «)l rancy sliiiu' in tluir hiKh«'>l H|.l»iuloiir ; hut 1
iti4i>'. I' ''t r luiuld lati^iK in\ riadusli) u bmrii) (aiiilof^u : I lia\c(iluad« NaiiU'iiini)^It
fo Kill?!) tin in tluit du tidUi'.ioM ol' tlu kiii^ «»i' Spain is one of llu- nu)-»t valu..l)U iu
I'.U'.'p. It is truf tlivTi- ;,M lint fru |»:iintiiij!;s of tlir IVnu l» m IkiuI, hnt til • lust pro.
liU'tions ol ihov ol Italy, M.mdirs, and Spain an iound in alinndancc ; tlm^r ot the
J.ttlif <.!'i'i't ially, less known than tin) (Kmim* to lj( , tire worti" of all tl»< aiui»ii»»n ol"
••um'.' i-^si ins } tlu- nanuH of Naxainiti', Alcn.^o, Cano, I«nrl)aran, Z«.ri/.o, (alKz.iUr.),
iJI is <U IV.kIo, JoaniH, Uv. uiinanjon^; tin ir t(iiiiitrvnun tnju) a uill cartu d reputation
■I'.i ni.in\ imoinUs, arc sfurnly known «ait <jI Spain. It is is en only hy hvarsay that
i;nm s nunli I;« ttir known tnjoy any rcpiit ition in Frame ; sneh as llivtra, calleil ilitrt
!>pi(^nii)let, who althon|;li a Spaniard I)<mi\, hvltjn^s rather t<i Italy tlian Spain , WLih-
pu ;:, \\ nv.!rkal)K' lor his corrietness of dtsi;4-n and pirspectivi' , and Mmillo, one el' tlu*
Mrst painters in the worUl lor the I'reshiiess and \ ivid i oluurinji'ol' hlslKsh, and hissotiness
•>l'iNprissi()ii ; Minillo/ whose prudnelion!» lor a lonjj lime nought alter In I'runcc, ot
!i nq^ih oci lip) a |)lare in tiie nnismin.
Till chapel of ihc palace contains nothin;; reniarkable of this kind, bni it^i architec
tin'al priiportions arcixactand heaniii'nl.
'i'lie palace of Madrid is cntirel)' lu w. That which Philip \', inliahiteil havinjr hecn
iMniud, the nviian h wished to lia\». it rk.-!inilt upon thi same lomuliiio;!. An architect
irom l'ieihn(»nl laid lielore him a most in t)4;nilireiU plan, the model of \\ hi'h is |)re-
nrved in a nei|j;hl)onrin;^ Imildin;;. Philip \ , wasdeti rred hy the cxpence from carry-
'.iijj; the plan into exeention, •ind adopieil one more simple, which, notwith'jtandini' it
ilready costs as much as that of the Italian architect would have dune, is not yet linished.
Two winj^'s have hicn hnildiii}; to ii for these twelve yi'ars past, which will give to lh<
whole a less heavy appi araiici.-, hnt must hide the principal front.
One approat lies towards this front throui^h a lii^e irri,^nilar s(|narc, at the extremity
of which is the armoria or arsenal, which contains a curious eolkction of aiK icnt and
ioru}j;n arms, ariaiigid widi ^leat ordir and earehill) preserved. The most remarkahlt
ihihj^shere are neither cimeters sei with dianuinds, nor compkte sets of armour of dif
fv rent kin};s of Sjiain, not e\en dial (jf St. I'erilinand : |jut those of the ancient American
warriors. A lout; tniMueration of all these curiosities is c:arefully made to the traveller,
wlien he is admitu d into the arsenal, and although he were a I'renchman, the sword woru
l>y I'raiK is l,ai the Italileut Pavia would nf)t he forj^oiten. The kings of the Austrian
d\ nasi) only inhahiied the palace occasion illy, which looked on the Manzanares, and
which stood on the site o| the new palace. 'I'hey resided during a pari of the )eurat a sort
i>l country housi, slluatid on an eminence at the opposite extremity of the town, <'allcd
h) them lini n Ktiiro. IMulip \', w as highly partial to it, and made it his sole residence
while at Madriil alter the destruction of the ancient palace by lire. Ferdinand VI, had
no oUkt, and Charles HI, passed the first years of his reign in it, greatly against the in
elinationof hiscjueen Amelia of Saxon), who was continually drawing vexatious com-
parisons between the magnilicint hori/.on about NapUs, which she had just left, and the
naked and conliiu d prospect of this residence. No ro)al abode had ever less the ap-
[jcarance of a palace than Huen Hetiro ; it is a delbrmed collection of symmetrical parts
entirely devoid (jf any thing strikiiiji;. It neverlhelesb contains a long suite of rooms,
which might at a trilling expencc be made inhabitable. Tlu gardens, which they front,
.lie without water, much neglected, and are now used as a jjublic walk. There are n
few statues worthy of the attention of the curious ; tliut of Charles V, trampling upon
• III I'lv.r.d. V iuic almost ull ffircign luuiics urc disfiyurcil, h» is called MoriUob
• Ol'tt'JOA.N Ml.
t II V . i I.:'. IM wf ' :n
• • •
:hiU'C
I JUf>»lst<T, uhirli IH •»n(>poH»<l to In- !h<» i ml)l« tn oflHYiHy , iuul iill «qii*strMI» sliitiir »»f
riiilJMlN . i)> >iii alik- Hciilpior ol Kloinxc. 'I'lic p.iltcc of lUtiro (fnitiiiiuil iilv) iii.iin
valiiiil)li' picturis ; hut the grnttisi part ol tlidn have mrii riiuovid to the luu palaro.
Tlio Mimptuoiis apartment talkd tin- Cason \^ rt markaltic for it*» a ilin^^, painit d Ity (ti
rinlaitu. It is at) all(|{ortcal rcpriMiitatiuii ul tlx' institution r)i' ilu orilcr of t!i< ^(jldcii
lUiri.
I sluill incniiou only two otlur paintinj^'s in tliis palatt One of Pliilip W in ji-arn,
Slated l)v tlic side of Ills wile Isalxlla ol I'aniese, and siirrcnndid l(\ all hi', fiiuily
('harl<«i \'anloo h.-^s jKrhaps displayi'd too nin< li iiia),o\iru;incc in i,' derriration of the
hall ; the li^un s he lias painted have in const f[nin(i a pali'mss I'roiu ihi surplus ol'lnil.
lianey in the luruitun ; nexertluless one catu»ol Inholil without iiiti rest an axseniljlaj^i-
of so many pcrnons who have lillid i niiiu nt pMrt^ on tlu" tluatri' ol'thi world.
The other pictiu'e iN less remarkaliN liom tlu nv rit or its ( oujpfisiiion thin I'roni thi
seme it presents. 'I'his is a faithful rejiresciuation of the last soUiun Auto Oa leuhith
was celebrated in lOHO, in the IMaxa NIa\or of Madrid, in presenci' of tin wholr court
of Charles II. The balconies appiar full of spectators, < :.citi d cnuallv b\ dixotion and
ourio.sii). The fai.il tribunal is rais< d in the middle of llv scpiare. The judj;'fs tlu re
wait for their pale and dis(i)^ured X i(tims, who, covered with melancholy cnd)l( nisof tlu
torments preparid lor thrni, are about to litar tin ir suiti ncc. Some rcccixe the last ex-
hortation of the monks, otlu rs sta;.;^er and faint upon the slips of (he tribunal. How
nianv relKetions naturallv rush on the mind of tin sputator : but K t us tnin otu' ^t
tt-ution from thesi- alllietin;; objects.
'J'he theatre of lUun Ui tiro is still in ^nod prisir\arion ; the housi' is small but well
contrived, 'i'hc sta^a-, which is spacious, opens at tlii' b«)ltom into the ^;ardens of llu'
|)alace, with which it is on a le\el ; this is favourable lolh'alrieal ma;;ii", when it is re-
quircil to e.Ktend the pcrs|)eeti\e aiul permit tlu- displ.i\ of bodies of troops or a train ol
cavalry. All tluse illusions are \anislud; the theatre is distrtid, its dcoiations are
covered with dust; aiul this theatre which in the nv^w of lerdinand \'l, risounded
w itli the most harmonious \ oiecs, is now condmuied to momnfid silence, which has
been but twice interrupted for these s( veii-and-thirt)- years.
'i'hus do courts chani^^c tluir appear.ince aicortlinj,'' to the taste of \he sovereij^oi. The
])rilliant taste of I'erdinand \'I, naturalised in Spain the lairy scenes fjflhe Italian theatre
under the direction of I'arinelli the nui^ician, wIkjk* talents aecjuiral him a disiin^;uish-
(d favour, at which no person murnuu-ed, becausi hi ino(lestl\ enjoud without abusing*
his good fortune. Under Charles III, l'",utcrpi' and Ti rpsiehoie lost tlaii inlluiiKe : this
monarch, more simpl. in his manners, moic uniform in his taste, and insensible to pro-
faiK' pleasures, banished them from his residenci', and confined himself to the piotection
of the silent arts, the sciences, and virtue. ;\ stranjnr to the »i nder passion; aiul al
though benignant, )ei almost eiuirdy insensiiiU- to Iriendsliip, durin;;- his wh')le reign of
thirty )ears continuance, iftiie marcjuis Sfjillaei be i xcepled, who was near being fatal
to him, and an Italian valet de ehambre (I'ini) who \tt never enjoud but an obscure
and subaltern degree of esteem, he had not (jne fa\i)urile; ;nul proie(.l(\l from the se-
duction of the senses by his religious disposition, he passul tweiitvniiu' } ears of his life
(rare exaniplcaine.Jig sovereigns !) without either wife or nustriss. In order to be ad-
nutted to the presence, the liberiine was obliged to follow his pleasures in secrecy ; so
that never wasthtre a court where less gallantry was displaced than at that of Charles III.
At that of Charles IV, less austere than his tathtr, although pleasure be noi e.\pelled,
it is yet entertained with'^ut parade; and if favou*' prevail, it is excusable, since il is
nobly dispensed, exercised with benignity, and makes as few enc-n)ies as possible. This
VOL. V. 3 c
Hi>iTl(i:o A VNr,
fli.vvr. T.:> rr; ,ii'\in
..nnrt li:i> \ >i!iv.:ri()iity over tbatoftlir prctcdin;*, by its confuling ii^ priixipil trust- U
the hiincls oi' Spnnii'.rc-s ; even tlie (luecii, although an Itahiin, \^x^ idcntincd hersd*
vsith tlic nation lor a Itnisr time past; whcretis in the three latter rei}i;ns stranf3;ers fo'
the irrciter jxirt filled all the oflice'; oftruiU. Tliis cireunistanee i oi" itseli'siifficicnt to
hinds-i' the explosion uincli other lualtevs are ealeidated to promote. Finally, to coiv;
plcf- the paraikl of th.e four rtjf^ns of the house of Hourlion ir. Spain (for I shall su/
nothinj; of that of Louis I. wliif h did not last a year) we shall observe, that they pr**-
sent the rare di^^play of r.n uninterrupted sneeession of four kinsjjs, if not ii^cat, or illus
rrious for brilliant (|ualitits, yet virtuous, humane, and sincerely pious , who may pos-
sibly have erred in their intentions of doing .icood, yet who never did intentionally wront>-
In tile u:arden,> cjI' Huen Retiro the monan;h has established a china manufactory,
*.' hich strun>,ars liaNC not hitherto been permitted to exaininc. It is undoubtedly in
fended that, experiments shall be seeretl) made, and the manufacture brotijrht to some
perfection, bel'ore it be exposed to the eyes of the curious. Its productions are to he
SC( ii no \vherc except in the palace of the soverei,sifn, or in some Italian courts, to which
they have been sint as presents, Charles III, rendered their due homage to our manufuc
tures when he exceiiled the court ol' Versailles from his distribution, notwithstandini.^
the latter regularly lurwarded some of the finest works of our seive manufactory to
the j)riiietss of the Asturlas. Louis X\', established this custom, on account of his
irrand-daiighter, and iiis successor did iU)t discontinue the practice.
Certain kinds of inlaid work which arc not yet much known in F.urope are wrought
m the saute edifice, (ieneially speaking, the K-tiro, its apartments, and its gardens,
ire nearly aI)andoiKd by the court ; in ret:on)[)ense, however, Charles III, has richly
embellished the environs.
This ancient palace cr)mmands a public walk, which has long been lanious in Spanish
.;omcdy and romance, Kl Prado. Its contiguity to the palace, its shades, the unevcnness
of the ground, ever} thing was fivourable to intrigue, but every thing as well increased
• he danger; Charles III, by levelling it, [>y planting it with trees, and lighting its ave-
nues by |iroviding for its being watered, and adorning it with fountains, some of which,
iiat ol" Cybcle, for exami)le, is very handsome, made a superb promenade of it, and
..iich as may be frequented nt all times with pleasure and in safety. It forms a part of
'he interior inclosureof the city, and is in length about the space of half a league. Se-
; eral of the principal streets terminate here. That of Alcala, the widest in Europe,
rosses it, runs by tlic side of the gardens of the Retiro, and terminates at the gate of
he same name, which, although somewhat heavy, is one of the finest pieces of architect
•jre in the capital.
The inhabitants from all quarters resort thither on foot or in carriages to meet and
*>rcathc beneath tlic shade of the long alleys, an air freshened by waters spouted from
'he fountains, and embalmed by exhalations Irom the fragrant flowers. The concourse
'>f peojilc is rrefjuently prodigious. I have sometimes seen four or five lumdred car-
riages filing oft' in the greatest order, amid an innumeral)le crowd of people on foot ; a
>.peetacle which at once is a proof of great opulence and population. But a better tastx:
were desirable in the carriages, and a greater variety for the eye. Instead of that mot-
tcy appearance ofdrtsses, which in other public places of Europe afl"ord a change, with-
out wl.ich there would be no pleasure, thare is nothing seen in the Prado on foot but
.vomen uniformly dressed, covered witli great black or white veils, which conceal a part
of their features; and men enveloped in their large mantles, for the most part of a dark
colour; so diat with all its beauty, at the best it is but a theatre of Castilian gravity;
this is th<' more apparent, where every evening at the first stroke of the angelus all those
iJuUKI.OANN i:
1 RAVI r.. J I \ Lii'Ai :»
who ai-e on the walk, sucUU nly stop as ii" struck with palsy, pull utViiKU r..it->, ivavc oH
m midst of the most iiUcrcstini'- and tinder conversaliou, and call home llieir tboujj;hl ^
a few minutes lor devout eoiUemi)lation. Woe to the ureteh who should dare K^ disturb
this silence of devotion, whieh the impious may ridicule, but which nevertheless pos
sesses somewhat afteetiiiij;, somewhat imposing event of the phi!osupirn:al <)bsi rver. Th'
pravers of the angelus ended, the promenaile is continued, and diseoinse is resume<1. A
whole unanimous people concludes, beneath the vault of hea\ en, its homage toiiie Creator
Of what consequence that it be throui^h the inttr\ edition of the Vir!;in Mary, it isnc
therefore less pure, nor yields the mind a less sweet consolation.
The botanical j^arden adds not a little to the < mix Hishnn.nt(if the PmcUj ; it Vv a
formerlv upon the road which leads from Madrid to the easile of I'rado : ijut Charle-
III, a few years before his death removed it to the sicU; of tlie I'rado uitlj a low inclosing .
by which it is ornamented withoiu beini;' concealed ; it is daily ii'.creasini,'' in. beauty
The botanist attached to the science, who readily cbtaius allowam e to view ih-j }:;atdeii
may entertain himself here delightfully for horns in die midst of trees and plants from all
the four quarters of the world. ' I'he productions of the vei^dable kin|;d(jm are rani^cd in
squares accordinf:? to the system of Linn;eus, and the names of tliL plants arc inscribed
on tickets inclosed in little tubes of tin stu< k in the ground at the fool()f each pl.int ,
a very commodious and useful means of reference to the beginner. The monarch oj
Spain it will be easily conceived must have within his power the means of collecting-,
particularly from the vegctablt; reign, tlu' most [nveious eulketinn ; in v hobi. \ast state-
gave rise to this line of Piron,
Tlu' '^iil) o( tluy shliu's i\rr ii'.i/ri- nii -iiKilii
In so great a di\ ersiiy
climates and soil, this immense monareuy must product,
(jvery tree, shrub, and plant which grows on the bosom of t!ie earth. It is only with
in five-and-twenty years that die advantage whieh these possessions hold out has been
put to profit. Galvcz, upon his accession to die administration of the Indies, ordcrec!
all the officers in the civil employment in the colonies, the military, and the clergy to tranri
port to Spain whatsoever belonging to the three kingdoms shoidd be dcetned worthy of
attention. Not a year passes without producing the metropolis either some new plant.-,
from Spanish America or seed bulbs or slips which arc reared inthe botanic garden of Ma-
drid. Tiie young liotanists employed by die court in Mexico, Peru, and other parts,
accompany their exports with a description of il»: i/uu.iV, which they make upon the
spot of their growth ; the soil diat suits them, die kind of exposure which is most fa-
vourable to them, and the care which they reciuiri . Follow ing these instructions the
botanical professors and above all Don Casimir Ortega entrust the diminutive seed to
its nurse ; and surrounded by dieir young care contemplate with dt-licious anxiety the
difterent stages of their grow th as they trace the features by w hich they have been de-
scribed. More than once have I attended their sittings, as insiructive as they are amusing,
in which nature is seen to prove here subjection to regular laws, and her dispoition to
make common to all mankind the advantages and pleasures with v.hich she has over-
spread the earth, at intervals w hich stagger the imagination. Oftcnliines at these meet-
ings questions occur which arc difficult of solution. Many a foreign plant demonstrates
the insufficiency of the classes invented by our learned men in Kurope, and sometimes
it is impossible to give a plant its place without assigning it an arbitrary one.
What has been attempted with success in plants, I have fr:quc!!tl} pleased myself with
U)e fancy of having extended to the tliree kingdoms at one scope, by allotting all th<«
.% r
,60
UOL'Ui.O ANMI-.
1 r. .\ V F. I, :. IN o V \ I s ,
s\nKX which ihu botanical i;-arclcn leaves vacant by tiic side of the walk to a destination
lATtainly extraordinary in lun'ope, and which the nipnarcli of S|)ain only could be ca-
pable oi" camiii!,' into elVect. 1 would haA c it divided iiuo as many [xirts as this sovcrcif^n
has principal colonics under his dominion; in tiiese should be settled a (autily oi
iVru\ians, another of Mexicans, another h-on\ Calerf)riru'.. anodier from ParagUiiy,
fr(,m Cuba, from the Canaries, the riiilippines, 8ce. All of them should preserve their
peculiar dress and manner (jf livui!;-, each should have built a simple habitation upon
the modil of that they liad (|uitted ; and cultivate the trees and plants l)r'' ^ht from
their own country ; so' that surrounded by these pleasinj^ illusions with t^reater reason
than the }ouii.^i,- i'olanore of Bourii;anville they might still suppose themselves in their
iiali\e soil. With w hat delii;ht woidd die curious of Europe tlock in crowds to behold
this living cabinet of natural history ; this cabinet unicjuc in itself, in which the objects
of his attention would tlunisclvcs be the Cicerone of die traveller. Here the Mexican
would be seen beneath the shade of his fig-tree, shaking it and gathering the precious
/nsccts which colour our Kurojjean garments; there the inhabitant ofGuatimalu would
cultivate his indigo ; and he of Paraguay the herb which constitutes his principal riches ;
die Pcru\ ian, a( eomjianied by the docik: animal which partakes of his labours, feeds
jiul clothes him, would in concert with the Luconian endeavour to introduce the same
GuUivation they had been accustomed to at home. Thus the exulting inhabitant of the
metropolis, without going from tiie capital, might pass in review, as if delineated on u
map, all the cc.lonies to which his sovereign gives laws. The imported colonist would
become accustomed to an exile, w Inch ever} thing w ould concur to render agreeable ;
and his fellow citii^ens, separated from him by immense seas, informed by him of the
benevolencL' and mi'.gnificence of their common monarch, would form a higher idea of
his power, pride themselves upon being his subjects, become more attached to his
government, and accustom themselves to see in the Spaniards of the old world, their
I'ouutrynicn instead of dieir oppressors; gently and pacifically tfteeilng a rcvohi
tion w'hicli might pre\ent or at least retard tiie misfortune and danger oru sudden sepa-
ration.
Such a project may be considered as romantic, yet the king of Spain has entered
■ipon one of the same kind, which proves his laal for the advancement of the arts and
icienccs. la the street of Alcala i'j a large bdilding in which the king has established a
cabinet of natural history, and which alread contains one of the completest collections
in I'Unope in metals, minerals, marble, precious stones, corals, madrepores, and
marine plants. The classes of fishes, or l)irds and especially of quadrupeds, arc yet
\ery incomplete ; but the measures taken by goveiument will in a little time make diem
a-i complete as possible.
'I'he minister in 1782 received an ample contribution from TVru : this was half the
rich collection made durinu- an eiHit vear's residence in that countrv bv Mr. Dombe\ ,
an able naturalist, whom the court of France, with the consent of that of Spam, had
■lent thither, and who brought back w ith him the fruits of his labour to Cadiz. On his
arrival at this port he did not meet with that generous demeanour \vhich is the boast of
Spain. Malevolence, jealous of his mission, excited a persecution against him which in-
jured his health, alread\' impaired, and seemed for a short time to have even influenced
his reason, lie was as it were a prisoner at Cadiz till he gave up to the commissaries
of government the moiety of his collection, w hich he had conceived was exclusively in-
tended for his country. Fortunately these commissaries had less intelligence than ill will
and in the di\ ision which they made in the presence of D(>mbey, the lot which they
fixed upon was not the most valuable of the two. He hastened, shortly after his depnr-
I
,juflM,0.\N.Vi:'5 I'A.Wl.l.'J, IN y.VMS
..rtl
luiv Jromu c:o„ntn whi<h had treated him so inhospUaljly and rarned with hnn c
Franre what hr ha.l been able m saN. iVo.n thr rapan.v ol this u.vuhous people. H.
oSedtoo,uM>tc>,n-nrstnaturahsts, his iVicud Mr. l/II-.nt.or, tlu:<:are o|^l^.ss.n^ tl
rich remains of the eclkction, and makin," th^n. knou n ,o th. pubhc. I •';-. »>^,^lt
Dnmhev never recov c red Iron, the shock .t re ce.yed, e.ihc r >n Vru or at Cad h • he ,
>ome vcars a-o in th- flou er oiN outh, exeiin^- the re^n-; t ol all the learned, and the tear'^
of fne'ndship.'^ He left several Spanish naturalists at 1 Vru, nlmse learned researelv^
will .rrtatlv coiuribute toenri.hthe eabinet of natural historv at Madrid.
The same ediliee that contains this eabinet, and wlneh vv.th the eubtom-house, bu.i'
dso bv Charles 111, constitutes the principal ornament ol the street oi Alcala. is th-
nbce of meetinu- tbr the aeadeim- olthe iine arts (las nobles artes ; ^uircumstann- uhrl,
produced the inscription on the building-, a motto eciually happy and )u>-t :
Cuvolus 111, MiUurum tl iiiu-ii. sul. niu) tcclo li. publir:M.> utiliiuUin o,nv,n,,v!'. Ai.no !:-.',
The honour of in.stituting this academy is, however due to IMiilip \", l)ur Fcrdinaiui
VI beimr partieularlv devoted to it gave it the name ol his patron San Krnando, and
Clnrles HI by providin.^ a comfortable residence has made it much indebted to liim.
The minister for forei-nalfairs is president, and every dtree years disU'.but.s premiums
to the yount? students\\ho have produced the best pieces m sculi)ture or paintmjr, and
the best desiffus in architecture. But though diere are several members who have dis-
tiiKmished themselves in these three arts, it must be confessed that their works ol real
excellence are yet but very few in number, and diat the prizes given are rather to be
looked upon as encouragements than merited rewards. Tiie Spanish court, however,
maintains at Home some young students, who giNC the most llattering hopes; and some
of the members of die academy are employ ed by it on engrasings ol a part oi the mime-
roub master-pieces which embellish the dilVerent palaces.
It is not only by forming artists that the academy contributes to the progress ol tlir
arts in Sixain, i't is also the' supreme tribunal, to whose decision die plans of all the sacred
\nd proline edifices erected in the kin-dom arc to be submitted ; an institution \Jnch,
in the end, must establish a good taste iipcjn the ruins of that barbarity which is but too
visible in most of the edifice's of former times, •.iiid of which Uaces still remain in some:
uf the "-at.s, in the ancient fountains, and in most of tiie churches m the capital; de-
formexrcttbrts of art, then in its infancv, which lias taken more pains to bring iordi mon-
strous productions, than would be necessary at present to produce works ol transcendent
merit. Modern edifices alreadv prcne the rc.olution that has taken place uneler die
house of Bourbon. Besides the new palace of Madriel, ue may instance the gates oi
Alcala and St. Vicente, the custom-luHisc, aiul die peist-otiice : and i>articularly a
superb building bv the siele of the Prado beyond the g.adens of Buen Ketiro began
less than ten vears'ago. It is designed for a museum to which the cabinet_of natural
history is to be transpejrted, and dure several academies are to hold dwlr sittings. The
wur interrupted the progress of tlie v, ork for a time '.)ut on the return ol peace it was
resumed. This fine monument of architecture will be the most superb ol any lu
• Tlic two Snuni^li l)otaiusts who an oi,ii.;iuit.cl Dumbty, Don Ilypoli'o fluiis. aiul Dun Joseph
Puvon. pul.libhcd ii woik in 179 t vuultr th.; litlc of V\ovx IVnivici.sis rt Clukusis I'rudroinus, m
w hich thov Riivc an ar.( oimt of the stati- of l.otany in Spui... Toui y. ars aft. r thrir hystii.ia vtKttabi
Hum IU)r'u I'cruvianx ct Chikusis app.aivil; ami in 179'.) ih.ir lai-c wo.k m two vohinKs tolu-
Hoia IVniviaii^' ct Chihnisi- which h>is .xcit.'d'hc- cuiiovitv ol llv karncl throuKhoul Lvn-op.v
the ciipiuil, and will add no small porliou of fame to the roinitatimi of the arrhilat, VTil-
laniicva. ,• • • i
At Madiid, however, there are few handsome buildinirs, it is in general well lu:dmit .
;hc streets, altlwuf^h not in a direct line, are for the most part wide, and tolerably straight,
it is three leagues and a half in circumference and about three qu -rters of a league
!)road at its widest part. The infreciuency of rain, and the vigiTanre of the modern
nuliee, make it one of the cleanest cities in Europe. But except the: Prado and it«,
'ivenues, the eitv has no elegance to boast. The famous Plaza Alayor, which the
Spaniards take so much pleasure in extolling, has nothing in it which justifies their par-
tialitv ; it is quadrangular, but at the same time irregular, surrounded by buildings ot
U\e inid six stories, suihciently uniform, l)Ut wiiliout ornament, under which are lonj.-
ueades. It is illuminated on public occasions, and then it really lias an agreeable ap-
pearance. The auto da fes were formerly celebrated in this square, with all thiir terrible
apparatus. It is still the theatre of those bull-fights which are called at the royal feasts
filstar reales. The hotel de ville, or town-house, is in this square, in which the histori-
cal academies holds its assemblies, and in which is its library, its musaim, its manu-
scripts, and its medals. Here also is the market for eatables and uk rehandihc of ever>
lesciipiion. This concurrence of circumstances has made it the must niuarkable pub
lie place in the capital, and has given it a reputation which, at the time it was first built,
was perhaps deserved, but which must have vanished since architecture has improved
in I^urope, and produced forty squares preferable to the Plaza Mayor.
It was nvch disfigured by the fire which reduced to ashes seven years ago almost the
whole of one of its sides. What tends to take off from its appearance, is a number oi
stalls w hich prevent one from crossing in every direction. It is nevertheless that quurtei
which gives the most favourable idea of the population of Madrid ; and if we judge ol
it by the concourse of people upon it at all times of the day, and in the adjacent street^
as far as, and including La Puerta del Sol, a street which is the resort of the newsmon.
gers, one shall be led to imagine there must be a mistake in the enumeration of its inha-
bitants, taken at no more than 155,672 of residentiarics according to die census of 1787.
'Vccordinr to Thomas Lapcz, who wrote in 1797, Madrid contains 7100 houses, 77
ehurches,*^44 convents of friars, 31 of nuns, and 130,980 inhabitants, exclusive of the
garrison, the hospital and the foundlings, the addition of which diree classes of mhabi
tants will raise the population to nearly the amount of die census taken in 1787. Go-
vernment has published a new census of Spain made in 1797, and which the official
p-azette announces as more exact than that of 1787 taken under the direction of coun*
'f'lorida Blanca, with the principal results of which I shall present tlic reader.^
CHAPTER IX.
POl-eLATION Oy SPAIN. PniNCIPAL CHeHCm-S 01 MADHID. V.MSrLR.-, VNr.n.VVKHS. I HI
PRKSS. HEHGIOV.S !• OUN DVTIONS.
IN 1768 the Spanish government made a census of the people, which it had rcasoii
to look upon as defective ; in the first place, on account of the want of care in taking
it, but principally because it was imagined that it had for object the imposition of a new
• I am hitherto ii^norant of the result of the census of 1797. The population of Spain will how-
.ver hereafter he kliown as well as that of any other country of Europe. The rectors ot parishes
having betn instructed to forward to jjovernmcnt a monthly list of the dcatiis, hirths. and marnaprf •;
ivithiu their difTercnt parishes, benfinnuit; with the present century.
BOUROOANNK'3 IRAVELG IN SPAIN,
:iBJ
». on house, •..hc.a.ccja ''^^^ X^Zt:ZrZ:'%^'SA^^
this first I luinanition, tiKrclorc, produced tor «»"""'" , •,,.,,„ with lesn
1, 109,151. , , _^ ,. . .... .^reatrr deceptions, lu 17B/ there
The severity of ^n.vcriunent brought to hglU sim i,rca«.r u i
^vt•re found to 1)C fe-u t^r than there were .u 17(>H
Of nuns and iriars - - ,',„..
Fcclcsuistics, and persons bclongui.uf to tlK c erg)
Persons attached to different n.onustic instaut.ons. and tc
the crusatle . - '
Hidalgos, or noblemen
r . 277,291 persons
11,044
17,213
(;,829
242,20,')
t^ Result of the census of
^ C unmarried males, or widowers
I J unmarried females, or widows
S / married men and women
^^ Total
fcities, towns, and villages
I parishes
beneficed clergy, vicars c-v
convents for men
women
o
monks
nuns
persons attached to liie clergy
svndies of religious orders ., "
persons subject lo the military tribunal
persons pensioned by the kmg
dependant on the crusH«..c
Inciuisitioti
hidalgos, or noblemen
1703
2,8oy,()09
2,911,858
3,439,072
9,159,999
16,427
18,106
51,048
2,004
1,026
55,453
27,665
25,248
8,552
89,393
27,577
4,248
2,645
722,794
of 1787
3,162,007
3,215,482
3,391,661
10,269,150
18,716
18,972
42,707
2,019
1,048
57,515
24,559
16,376
4,127
77,384
36,465
1,884.
2,705
480,589
By means of .his census, .he pmporuon which .he number of *.c difteren. profess.ons
bore to each other was known. They were
145 cities (ciudades)
4,572 towns (villas)
12,732 villages,
907,197 husbandmen,
964,571 journeymen,
"HI nnfnf.n.\VNi;'.s ir\vels IN ^I'Aiv.
270,089 tradesmen and artisans.
•2m),0\)2 servants,
50,994 students,
;)9,7.'5(> manufacturers.
riie population Dl'tlic diflercnt provinces vas at the same time ascertained, and uli.a
k\ as only suspected hi fore became apparent ; that is, that the k sources which, the neif^h-
!>()inhood of the sea aftbrds, added to the (piahty of tlie food, which it produces, wlicrc
tlie soil is fruitful, are suHieient in themselves to counterI)alance the c\ iis of a bad ad-
ministration ; since (ialicia, the clergy in whicli possess more than lialf the lands, not-
withsiaiulin^^ it hi. destitnii of canals and navitjabk' rivers, and possess scarce any roads;
notw ithstandiii<^ its ^hok' reliance be on its manufartorlcs of linen, its trade,' and its
fishery ; yet lilest with a soil capable of receiviii}^ every .sjiecies of culture, situated so
as to have the sea on its two sitles, and free from that devastatinc^ scourer the Mcsta,
fialieia is beyond comparison the best populated province in Spain, aUhaus;!! it be far
from lii'.vini,^ an eipial extent wiUi others. In 1787 it contained It.l-l.'j.H'),) inhabitants,
while Catalonia, far more industrious, and of nearly double the surface, comiJiised but
.Ut.'1l2, Arrayon but 02.3, 30H, and Ivstremadura, one fourth pari larger than Galicia,
no more than -1 1 7,000 persons.
To return to .Nhulrid; as to its population, it has ordinarily from () to 10.000 men
in j^arrison, is the reiule/.vous for jietitioiurs from all parts of Sj)ain and the Indies, as
well as of a i^rtat nnmlxr of strangers ; hence it may not be considered an cxairo-era-
lion to compute its inhabitants at 1H0,0()0,
Jls sacred edifices ha\c nothiii_u; in them \ery remarkable, allhoui^h th.e abbe Pons has
(Uvoteda ^•olunu• to the description oi llum ; se\eral, htm ever, contain lii^hl\- valuable
t ollections of pictures, which m;sy be seen with admiration e\en after the painti'iifrs of the
l'..si'urial, and the ni w palace. The sn^all church of Si. I'asrjual, upon the IVado, within
its narrow aiuUlirty walls contains two Titian's, several paintini^s by Spagnoletto, one of
the best of liassano, two by (iuerchin, 8;c. The church of St. Isabella lias also some
master-])ieees of Spat^noletto, particularly the assumj)ti()n of the chief altar, a capital
piece which has been enjfraved ; but no church at Madrid has a larger or better collec-
tion than that ol the barefoot Carmelites, in the street of Aleala. How fre{]uently have
I been to the large vestry ol these nu)nks, who are the most opulent in Madrid, to reckon,
admire, and envy treasures so ill ai)pieciated, and so badly placed ; numerous paintings
'A' Spaniards, so little but so mucli eleserving of being known, such aa Zurbaran, Zc-
rizo, 8cc. others In Spagnoletto, Mnrillo, Giordano ; Charles V, haranguing his armv,
i)} Titian ; a Lord's supper, by \ and} i k ; many by Rembrandt, particuki'rly a Tobit,
seated and jxnsive, hi which the only light of \ht piece pn.ceeds from a dull fire to
which he is turned. J'',xcei)ting (;ii account of their paintings, these three churches
possess little: claim to notice. Hael lasii reigns throughout them, as is the ease in almost
all t] religious edihces olMadrid. The church ol St. Isidoro alone, which heretofore
bei i; '^ed to the .lesuiis, has a portal which is handsome, although not exempt from
faur Its inuiior is not destitute of beauty, and, among other paintings rather com-
mon, :i. contains a large one b\ Mcnsy, and an adoration by Titian.
There- is anotlier eluirch much more modern, which, on account of its mass, lias :;
vmerable ajjpearance, and has some valuable paintings: it is that of St. Salesas, or the
visitation, founckel by Ferdinand VI, and the (lueen Barbara his wife. The ashes of this
royal pair repose here, under two pompous mausoleums. On that of the king, an in-
seription in Latin, \\hich apj)eared to me a model oi the lapidary style; the Spaniard.-
Dorn(.t)A x'
M.'
1 .: A V j; ^
IN
ii a;.v.
.y''
ijiciusclvcii liuvc ex passed their (lis:ipprnl):iti<)!i of the uhf)U: cdififx: b> tl-.t.-.^. words
B;iil):ira rtvnu, Ivuharo gusto; l):irl)ar;i <;hra ; a pliiy upf.i words which hxs tfrcct bur
ill the Spaliish laiii'uaKe, in which the expression barhara is cHpially appfn d to the natnc
of the foundress, to the bad taste of the cdifiee, and to the emnmous Mim it cost lu
building. It has, hiiwcver, one laudable appendage, a eu-tain ininilnr of voung ladies
are there educated at the kin;;'s expenee ; it forms a part of the seminary for the nobi
jitv, a kind of military school whieh has been for some time baek under the dnvc.tioii ol
Don J()rge Juan.
And lastly tlie convent of Si. Frane/is has been some years !);iilding at an munensc ex
pence, and tlure were hopes tliat it would I)eeoni(; one of the liiKst prodiic.ti(;iis of ar-
chitecture in the tapital. It is lately liiiished, and is rather a solid th.ui an eleg:.iu edi
ficc. The e.hiirch, in the* form of u roiunda, ornamented with i)illars. is yet a strikinr-
ol)jer.tat first sight: th
for the most part the pupils of ^h
oliier.tat first sight: the Ixst masters in Spain were emploud on painlin,^s for Us altars,-
• • ' "kiigs; M. .\laella and M. HiNcux, otherwise ealledKl Ar-
merits also by his talents an honourable mention ; he pourtrays in a pleasiiightyle the man
ncrs, customs, and games of his country ; neiUur nuist Carnieero be omitted in the list,
I copyist in niiniatvire, possessed of miieh taste, and who faithfully imitates the master-
" • * Nor need the genius ol
d'.Arnul, a French-
pieces with which the king furnishes his smaller apartments. Nor
dcViKn disdain the names of Don \'entura l<<.dngue2, de \'i!knue\a.
Jblgll
man by birth, and Don Francisco Sabaitini, |- an Italian, diivctor of the king's Ijuildings ,
all of them eminent as architects.
In the art of engraving, they have several who excel ; Don Salvador Carmona, mar
ried to the daughter of Mengs, w ho has in part inherited the line pencil of her lathe- ,
is deservedly to be placed at dieir head. Mr. Carniona is advantageously known in
France by several prizes gained in the academy of jiainting. Were we to criticise widi
acumen/it might be observed, that his talents too little, or at least too late encouraged,
have not produced altogether what the) at lirst promised. Several otlu r engravers, Mes .
sicurs Ferro, Muntaner, Fubregat, Ballester, and especially M. Selma, have, by happy
efTorts, proved that their art still makes some progress in Spain.
The academy of the Spanish language, \vhich in the year 1730 ga\ e an elegant edition
of Don Quixote, in four volumes, quarto, enriched it with die embellishments of the
engraver. But the engravings, for tho most part not above mediocrity, do not answer to
the merit of the edition, equally admirable for the quality of die ink, the beauty of the
paper, the clearness of the character, and deservedly ranked with the fniest productions
of this kind in any other nation. It is of itself sullieient to gi\ e eclel)rity to the press of
Ibarra; it is truly a national work, by which die Spiuiiards have refuted the charge of
the arts with them being yet in their infancy. The ink is a composition made by Ibarra
himself, to whom our printers have frequently applied in vain for tly hi cret ; the charac-
ters were cut by a Catalan, die paper was manufactured in Catalonia, the learned preface
and die analysis of Don Quixote, placed at the beginning of the work, arc written by a
• (Joyc excels ;ilso in portrait piiintiiii^, as well ns Aciciic and Esloic. In hi .torical painting Doji
I'raiiclsco Rumis jusliiics the hopes forniLcl of him by iho painlinp;s whii li tUc-i'.nd-twenty years ago he
icnt from Rome to the academy of tlie fine arts at Madrid.
t lie, althe same time, was ch'ief of the Corps dc Genie; he died lately, and has been snrceeded in ihih
'aucr appointment by Don Joseph de Urruliu.tjie jveneral v.lio l;'>t. conununded tin- urmv in Ciitalonht.
iippointm
vol.. V
T n
1
j^,,, il.)tlU.<).\NNi:'0 IU.\\T.I.^ IN :.fMN.
.uuulKrol .hra(.ulcnn ..f the Castilian lat.KUi.Ri', Don Josiph dcGm varu; ihc Imul.np
even, alihn.iKh inlcrior'lu the rest, sulliekntly (K moiistraics tliatilu- Spaniard-, are l)y no
ineanh hi luiKlhind in an\ thint^ whirh rdatts to t\ |)<)i;raphy.
This is not thi onK "prod thiA h.ve Kivci. ol their al.ility. h%erv connoisseur i--
„ ..Maintul uiih, pirlVrs to the editions of Haskrrvillc and Harlx^i, and reckons equul
u, the w.rks of Did.t. du S.illust, uhich th. Infant Dun (lain u I has iranslatcd nUo
his own lan-naK. ; and s.une nUKr works from llie presses .)l Ibarra at Madrid, aiuJ
fi(,m diose of Buu(hc:t Monllort at \aleneia, such as Mariana, Si)hs, Ciareilasu. tli<
l,.,cin on music, Kl l>arnasso Kspa^mol, by Scdaiio ; and, above all, the master- p.eci
',f Hcnedict Monlfoit, that Icaruul work of liner, die preceptor <.l the liilant Uon Ua
•uicl; intitlcd l)c Nnmis ILbneoSamaritanis, 2 vohimcs, m loho.
LaitciU the Spanish artists have been emploved in nnihiplyiiiK', by the means ol tlu
•rfiver, the portraits of a score of ilhistrious persons, kin^s, ^ainrals, lamoiis writers,
&c. andmanv K>""^1^'^>"I'^I>''''>' "'^" ^''^^'- k^alleries of pauitiiiKs which were lost to
die world, aiid'to the ails, have had eni,'ra\ inj>s taken h-om them.
lint iflhi- pleasinM-artsbe cultivated at Madrid, the most use I ill of all, diat ol beneli-
eence is not ncHlecied. Charitable foundations, worthy models for every nation, arc
found ill that citv ; amoii.u; those two broiherhoods whole funds are consecrated to tiie
relief of miserv • a public pawn shop, at which money is lent to the necLssitmis, and
which in the period between 1724 and 1794 (72 years) had advanced 111 millions ot
rials ; a receptacle for orphans, and, above all, three hospitals which annua ly receive
from nineteen to twentv thousand patients.* The principal hospital near to, but on the
outside ()|- the Atocha ^atc has been lately rebuilt. It is a lar.ire edifice, which by no
means disgraces the walk liadinir from this },ate to the canal ot Aranjuez, and whicli
the Spaniards have estimated rather too hii,dily in honouring with the luime of I /as
Delicias.
•> I ill, 11 AC AW) ■■;H I- 1 A 1 I- (m
CllAPTEU X.
(HI. M.W VM V< I.Ol'KIMA IN STAIN.
ijy llir. SI'ANlAItDS.
Ar'U,i)li\ AND MlKUAHi >11M
THl''. aradeniv of the fine arts is not bv manv the only one that Madrid contains. It
niav even be said, if the nnmber of literary institutions were the measure of progress
in sciences, thi'. capital ou-!' to be considered one of the most enrr-htcned and le-arned
in Europe. There is an acadeinv of pin sic ; an economical society ot the friends of their
countrv, to which is annexed a (Junta de Signoras) a junto of ladies impressed with
desire of siKnalixinir their an'ection towards the public K^od, and some odier insignificanl
iuntos, as little worthv of notice for their titles, as for the advantage derived from them,
and whose existence serve onlv to show, that a patriotic 5:cal has infused itself latterly
into the minds of people of all'dasses; one of Spanish and general law; one of dieore.
tical u'ld practical jurisprudence ; one of the canons of the church ; one ot civil, canoni-
cal, and patriotic law ; the Latin academy of Madrid, &c. 8^c. liut die only ones dc^
serving of particular, mention are, 1. Tlieticademy of the Spanish language, founded by
Philip V, and which the Trench academv has constantly looked upon as its sister. On
the appearance of the very first edition of its dictionary, it was allowed by the most emi-
nent grammarians to be the complctest work of the kind which ever appeared m any
» The Pcncral hospital, which is for men, in the course of tlic year 1801, admiucd 14,254 pc|"sons.
The hospital De hi Passion (for women) 5,297 ; and that of Sunt Jiiun de Dios, for both sexes, o,271 ;
Uital 22,809 persons.
not'H'.oANNE'a ^ll.^vKr.:. in sp.m.v
3H;
It
laiijijuagc. Tlu'aciuUiny luis inslrmti d its libiariaii, llic al)l)ot M.irillo, to condense it
into !i siiif^lc voliinu- lor comiiioii ns(\
'I'his aciuli iiiv !>> (:omi)o>iMl mI" t\\(iit\ Iniir ortlinarv incnibtr'i , Ixif tin* number of
snptrnunicrariis is not liuiiud ; tin- pn sidnl h a i^randif nf Sj)ain. 'I'lic present is the
niar(|uis tli: S;in(a C'ni/, tla- ^joviriior is the prince ol' Asimias. Hut lew cxatTtplcs,
however, lend to sht u that it emisiders itseli lionotind I)y tlii' adini^ ion nf nohihty
Thi' Spaniards do not re(|uire a revnlmion to teaeh iheni that hi;;h birth shonid not ji.- a
.substitute lorp' rsonal luiril. As >vell as other nations, Sp;iii\ has its inupiahtiid per
sons, perhaps in greater lunnlxr, but such are kept in iheir due stations, that iu to saj ,
arc unr«garded. J. Theaeadeni) of hisl«)ry was I'oinuled and ( ndowed by Phihp V, in
IT.^H, its first president was don An!;n>»iin Montiano, a (list i'lt^ni-. lied hterarv eharaetci
l)nthttlc known out ol Spain ; its present director is the eoinit de Canipom tm.'s,* who,
by tlie rar.k he hold-, in the nia_i';istra(;y, as ui II as by his |j;reat eriidiiion and virtties, v-
one of the most distini;uished ncjblenien ol' niixK rn Spain. lie was ever one of the mosi
attentive men»i)er.'» oi this academy, even at times when his \arioui occupation!* left hint
tlic least leisin*e for application.
The Spaniards have always been fjjreatly jiartial to the study of their own history ; it
scarcely contains a city which dues n'»t possess its iudiv idual hisif»ry or a ( hroniele. Ol
late they have reprinted their best historians, and u iihin th'.se twenty years have pidi
lished editions of scNcral anthois ; amoni^ others, for the first lime, sevi ral works of Se-
puUeda, ])articularly that entitled l)e rebus Liestis Caroli \ . It has for these five-and-
twenty years been employed on a task ecpially inti r< stin;^- and anluons, that of publishing
all the ancieiU chronicles relative to the history c^i Castile. .Siveral of these works had
never been printid ; all are enriched with iioiis and eomnuntaries, which at once j)rov<.
the sound criticism and the ernditicjii of th( ir authors, tiie chief of w hich are Don Tran
Cisco de Cerda, Don Micpiel I'hjrez, Don Kui^cniode Lagnno, and several other mem-
bers of the academy of history.
The academy contains one of the most valuable collections of which a literary societ)
can boast. This is all the diplomas, charters, and (mIut docunu lUs ^;i\ en, since the ear
liest period of the monarchy, to every city, borouj^h, conninniity, church, chapel, 8tc. in
Spain; the whole collected with the greatest care, arran,Li;ed in ehronoloific il order, and
consequently adapted to furnish every branch of the Spanish history with the most
abundant source of authentic materials. It is in this immense rej)ertorv that the acade-
micians have collected the elements of a work w hieh is n. ct ntly published, and which has
already run through several editions, u Geographical Dictionary of Spain; it lias had
some considerable additions made to it, the last volume of which appi aied in June
1796. Others, among which are the librarians themselves, have nudertaken to give to
the public a catalogue of the Greek manuscri[)ts in the library of Madrid. One of the
most learned among them, Don Juan Iriarte, died in 1770, leavin;;- behind hini three
nephews of distinguished abilities ; one of them, Don Thomas, died a few years ago a
great literary character ; a second, Don Domingo, alter signing the peace of Jiasle, went
ambassador to France, where he died much regretted, as well b\ his country as by the
friends he had acquired among the French; the eldeit, Don Ik-rnardo, is still living, and
divides his time between the arts and his duties in administration.
* He hus for sonic ycurslmck icsi^uecl all smcIi sitiuiUoiis us ri't|iiir(' upjjlicatioa, ;ai(l, u iir'UilKrr oi
the council of state, peiict;il)!y enjoys till' e'lli'i'in wliicli lie lu'.s so wirll iiKiilcil; liis tounliy, lo wliicl;
he wasun lionour, as well oniiccoiinl ot" his virtues as his talent, \v;is Ibr a lour;; time mn( h indtliti '1 'v
him; soth»l he becunie justly entitlerl to spend iniiuict the Kin.tindrv ufa iitt- sn wrll eiii|ili)Vi(l.
.) n
388
,. t
linUKNO.WVt 3 IHAVEia IN SI'AJV.
',^() 1'';ii1m r Mori'Z, ;• monk, Spain is ;ilv) iiitl l)t((l forHivcnil '. oliinn stA ti;ilcM.jHtUMl
1iistor\ , uliirli ill liii hands uii'4, in trntli, on!} ;in irrip;ulai' compilation, Init it has tic-
ipiirtd a more pli.isin;,' iorn> under thi' niatiajM imtit ol" his continnator, Father Hisco.
S( viral othir writt rs, well ,i(f|nainlnl with uhat i\l iti s to thiir country, an employed
iiip;ivin);' a eU.ir hi>>tor\ olit, and instnictin].'; tlu ir ll How eiti/.ens in maltt rs ol policy,
an(l the science of^ )vcitunent. 'I'luy have nalurali;:e(l in tlu ir lan|;uap;e such I'rench
and K.nglish works as the S|)ani'>h oriliodfiNy would permit ; not onl\ those, lor instanct ,
which treat oltraiks and arts, hulalso works ol' literature anti phiIo^oph\ . Ir is twent)
years sinci tluv he^^MU the translation ol the uorks ol' I/nuiiLUs, and the naluril historv
oI'M. d(. Hnllon. At present tlicir literary characters ar«j more than i vt r (^ivcn to trans
lations, hut sin w a dcfn it ncy or|ud';nKi.t in the ehoiec of their snhjcrts. While iluj
,^elcct Clarissa Ilarlowe, lluj avlopt at the same tinic our most insipid ronianris; they
place beside tin Philosophical l'-ssa\s ol" Maupcrtuis, the works ol liirnardmdc St.
rierrt and ('ondillac, oiu' m«ist insipid hoc.ki on ascetics. 'l'h» 3 have even attempted
to mak< the Sj>aniardsac(pi:(int((! with the l'hiloso|)hical History olthe ahbot I{<ynal; a
Work \\hi(h j;avt rise to so mu( h indi;rnalion in the Spanish j^ovirnnurit, that I have
more than once been witness to the minister lor the Indies, (ialv(/,, entcrinj;^ into a pa-
roxysm of ra}4;c at the bare mention of the autlior; lookinjj^ upon such as attempted to
introduce in a eontraliand manner the copies ol' this \\()rk into the Spanish st iilements
in America as guilty of treason. 'I'he duke d'Alnwulovar, * one ol" the j^'randccs of
Spain who cultivates letters (lew are the number of his rank that do) has ^^iven less a
translation of it than an extract, in which hi- has taken pains to omit whatever mij^ht b(
obnoxious to suprrstifimi and despoiism, rectiiyinijal the kame time anumber of errors
relative to the S|Kinish colonies intf) whiih the al)bot had fallen. A short time before,
the Dictionaire Kncyelopedi<pie was underiaken to be translated by subscription ; and
the world was not a little '•urpriscd to see the nanu' of the }j;rand iiupiisitor at the hcadol
the list of subscribers. 'I'owards the- close; of my lirsi residene:e in Spain, the re was ;:
very numerous list of subscribers for the New I'aicyclopedie, with the subjects classed
under distinct heads; but a Fretuhman, writer of the article; Spain in the- section on
geopiraph}', wantonly vililieela whole nation, v.hicli its weii^ht in the' balance (A' Furope.
and its intimate cejnncxion w ith our e)wn, ou;^ht to have made respi cted. The Spanish
government resented this insult, and the l''rench court determininj^ to redress its com
plaints, the author, censor, and printer were severely reprimanded; and the j)ublication
of the New Fncyclopedie was suspended in Spain by oreler of the court. Tlie Spanish
minister, however, thejutih oHcndeel, was noldesire)Us of exeludini; knowledj^e, and soni:
alterwarel revoked the' suspension, at the sauu' time he tool; incisures to erase tlic errors
and invectives from a work of which he knew the merit, auel su!)jccte:d the numbers be-
fore thev were' distributed to the subscribers to the examination of the council of Castile.
The council in consecjuencc nominated a committee l"e)r cxamininj^the books as llu-y ap-
peared ; a ceremony which (greatly retarded the work in the lirst instance, and the com
missarics not havinj^ either leisure, inclination, or the rccjuisite intelligence for such a
task, three hundred subscribers lo>iii; aw.iited their decisions in vain. The matter be-
came worse w hen the holy ottice, followinjj the suf^gestions of intrifi;uc, even more per-^
tinaciously than those of religious zeal, produced new obstacles to the delivery of the
parts; first, by forbidding the agent whom Panckoucke had sent to Madrid receiving
any new subscriptions ; afterwards, by extracting an engagement from him to deliver
* In the reign of Peti;r III, he was the representative' of Spain ut the- court of Russia, afterwards
went ambassador to PorUiijal, and lastly to Knijland, where he continued in that capacity up to th»:
period of Spain t;ikilii'; p.n'i in tl\e Aiuerirun war; In; died l:\teiy
nnf II <,o \ K N I
ri' A vr.r . in .» > i v
..i»P
IK) fiirtlit r t ()|)ii :, , and hsilv , liv svuiiijj,' on til tin y r<)iiii«l in liis pfjs^t -.sion. Tlu- iniit
i)!' tills (iiiiAii, and a i ()M«»u|ii.iit pi vMini.iry injiirv <i| ('unMdrrahl* m.i.Lcnitiulf to I'anck
ouiki-, \\\n- iln-tLsiiU <»l liusv \ii)l< nt nn isiuis. 'I'lu stormy limis diirin;;tlii kwiIii
ti<jn,and the war lUK'^iuKful In tin m, \\\\\' privcuti'd thi* injnrtd pari'n s iVoni ohtainin}^
a rtparaticn Inr ilu ii luh>,(.>,. "lVac» now liappily r<.»lor«d allow, itir hupt oJ" rttiibii-
tion.
'riuouj;liout thi-. inattir ilu' Spanish ^^nviriuurnt has to reproach its< U on inory Uiai;
ytic account. \\'as it ikcj ssai) liiat it shoiilrl inttrllrc in a matter entirely (jf a literary
nature, and talve olli nee at the in( iil|i.iii'iiis ori_i;ii')ran(e ? I-. the lame, ilu hoiiom ol" u
nation at all eonipromivil h) the insnlitid assertions ol' an ohsenrc individual «' By dis
playiiij^authoiit) in siinil,ir< .is« s, caliinniy, so far rromlKinL^rilnttd, obtains additional
force, or at least additional pnl»li( it) . Spain shf)uld have U ll to her learned men, to lu i
writers, the task of lUmonsiritinL', to the \\(trld that she was not so destitnti of iiitelli
{;ence, not bo barren of titles to iIk esl< < m and |;Tatiiuile of Fairope, as Masson de Mi i
villiers had allirmed. Thus it is that a j-reat nation shews its veiiKcanee. Sneh an ex
ample has lon^' been held to vi« w by tin- I'ai!;lish and I'reiKh. Not only d(j tluy them-
selves even in the lime of p( ace treat eai h otlur \\ith m \erity, stran^^t rs as well are Ire-
<|uent in lavishin^^ on them the most billir railin^r and invective. 'Iheir ,qovernmenls,
however, have never felt disposed to make allairs of state of these national animosities.
A noble pride, the conviction to the mind of inlurenl wmth should be sutlieitnt to make
every one impenetrable to siniilar attacks ; and surely tlu' Spanish U. mpeiam(.nt is of a
nature to be sale beliind this rampart. It was not rerpiisite for their court to appoint
defenders. The abbot Cavanilles,*' who had been at Paris for several years, sponta-
neouslv underto(;k the (K fence of his country ai^ainsl the '.halts of this imprudent jour-
nalist; but his counliymtn thtniMlws deUrmiiad that throuf^h excess of /.eal he h.id
overshot the mark, fie was still more prodif^al of praise than his antaj^onist had been of
reproach. The one allouid nothinij;, ihe other laid claim to every merit ; so that to sus-
tain his assertions, he was obli^id to cite a Ions;; eatalo<j;ui' of Karnul me'nand artists, the
major part of which were uiikuown even to the Spaniards themselves.
Aiu)ther apoloLjist has more recently ascended the sta,u;i' to defend his countr\ , U(^i
with less warmth, but in a more speciuus manner, and has sent me his maiuisi ript.
In this he takes a view of the diHerent branches ofscieiu:c and literature, and proves
that Sjjaniurds are ignorant of none. Above all lie jjarticularly vaunts of their military
skill. The works of the maivpiis de Santa Cruj;,t says he, are they not translated into all
languafjes ? Do not Frencluneu themselves (luote the treatises on artillery of Louis Col-
lado and Christoplur Lechuii;a ?
The iiujuiry oi" Masson de Mcrvilliers, What does Kurope (jwe to Spain for two centu-
ries past, nay fur (bur, for thcae thous \nd years ? enrai^-es beyond measure my anonymous
correspondent. And thus he answers nim : " lias lie then for^jjof? No, he never can have
known, this ij^norant Kienchman ! lie never can have known how Ferdinand the catholic
drove the Saracens from Grenada ; that Isabella patro:.ir.ed the discovery of the New
World ; that Charles \, trimnplKd at I'a\ia, while Magellan was penetrating the Straits
•Tills Is the same person wlio 1-. l.tvoiiruhly known to thi woilil ol lati by ynmc tsiimublc works
on bolaiiy.
t For u hpi'cinie'M of the RLiit r.ii^li p cf the miirtpiis do S;intii Cruz, sec the iicruuiit, of an expedi-
tion to tlu ishuidsof Terccvu, under t: " eonnnaiid of the conimande! De Chaste, \\hich forms u pari
oflhis work. With a thousand French, ."n lie made head during- a wliole day a^!;ainsl i!>irty thousand
men under llio mar(jui:i, and actually dispo-..,,ssed tlmii at la«t 'if a po--t '.hey eontended for, uv.d nudn-
taincdit the whoh- of the siicceedini.'- n'nrlil.— Translator.
I
;)'J(»
tfoi'iii.'^ A N Ni: u juaxilj in «i Air.
\vIiiihl)C(\rlu> n.imi-, .mrl t tkin^f olwcrvationol il»tc(»ists, tin- rivcr?i, .iml lurliof Soutli
Aiut.ric;!'' tli.it ('.mo, firit of ill, m ulo llu tu'ii ol 'he wi.rlil, i!.(l ciuiliMi ii-» li;;iin and
cxtiiit ' lint Cnrti.:, iiiM' xno; iliii I'i/.irru m I'mi, luui'Ji', ',oii<|ii< n il, .tii'l Mcurcil
lo r.ui'),ii' tho v.ilu.iMi' |iro(li»rti')ns ol lunh AiixriraH; |li;it tludonu.tic .iiiiin.iKuhicli
so inDlilu ly iilifiiirul in ilmsc n fjioiis u» re rinii' .1 iIhti- l>\ SiMiii.ircK , ili ii \\u\ ititrotluc-
f vl ihiii' tlu' iiM (.1 inm, ;iii(l t.iiif;lit ;tll lliosf hi iuIks of i.uhiNU) «»l \vhi';h tlif prtviij
voldi.ihis I" i|) ihi htiit lit , tliii Ukv iiii.il^Mtl ihi |>r'MUi'ii'> IS ol thov ("iiniri' s ; thi)
i>t ihii'.h' <l ihc ruliiiiv 1)1 Mi^.-..r. .soiiuv nl" Mii Ii .i(lv.»nt.i^fO lo I'rt iich hmi i.-.^^hsh com-
nuTi r i tht ) t'Mt iiilul ih.tt i>r 1 1)« O.I, ol iiidi^o, oi' i.»K'!jiiiv:ih nl lohicro, i,| lotfoii, >iiul
pr<i\iil il f \.iliM'oi li..ik, ol" l>.ilr<,im'>, air'ap.ni.i.i, '.iiid i lau.iiuuU' '-A uAvx Milutiliruu.s
I itnlui'ti'ihsotii.i'iirc .'
"Ill \\u iiikldic of the sixluiiili aiilmv, \«hi.:i some liiiimjOKcl ut l,<p:irit(» umli t
Dull John n|' A^l^lli.l .111(1 n.i.Mi.i, uUuis jji lu'i' iii il to tin. I'liiiipiiiin > . v\ hili thcM' co.isl.
I'd uliii;; ihv shon > (-1 C;.hliiiiii,i, vtrtiivinj; it to he a |)>.-iiin-.ui.i, iiiid di^Josead New
Me\iiii, iht)»i ;i};.iiii ut iv tra\viH»ii}; th^. \,iNt iMiiil <A Soiitii .\uKrica.
'•'I'iiiy laiivd their ar^ioii, thkir m imikT"., and ihoir laii^;u i :;•.• to ho adopted by
inlllioiis III' iiihiihil. lilts, and in:u!i.' thuii .i^iicultiiiTits. ai:isaiis, and soldii r,, p.itrioiif.illy
t(U;iiil} i:i)^ Uk III v\ I'.h thi iik iropoiilan lotinti) ; \t iiile the ollur nations ol I in; ope tiiii)^l\t
llie Indi.ihs whaiihiy ihscdvued, the hanei'iii u«)e olanns and stronjj; rupiors, es^.hlish.
i.i|; nooth(.r th.inapaUn trallle lor skins; and lilted tliLUi U) Uieir ieasons, and In tht ii
I ample, to iKCoini like tlie ins* hes peilidiotis.
' C'oinp.tre with tin- state ol tin se Sp.mish luloiii. s, the ohjiet of so iniicll de<.l:iin,i-
liuii, the miserahle situation of C'.iuniu ; ili.i ol Lnnisiana also (noiwiihsiandinij: thir
nonstroiis i oiiceptions ol tin |'iui(h).il ilu tir.ii oi i's eission to Spii: . And ^h.lilthe
lji;;iish he ni.i-ted .is a nioili I lor us;' IlaNe llu_\, in thi Jr tisurpali'iis on the sliores of
Cainpeaeh} and Honduras, elone au^iil ti)\\ards ( i\ ili/inn' thi' inlial.it .nts ^ Have thiy at
lit iimi.ised their ha))piness? No; iluv haw s( iile red the in abroad, sunk in barbarity .
Did shi wii thiin no otiur exampli' than tl,;ii ol pita' v aiid suiii.utxlin^;. And liirtlur,
,!;houi;h ;it»piisuit Siiiinaiu has ;itt;iineil ;i eeitain (lr;.;ri e i/f proi^Krity under the man
«;(niiiU ol'llu Diileh, how st;inds the: rest ol Dot' h (iiii ma •'
*' N\ VI iththss, these iire the most industrious, the most [jouerfnl, the most eomiiier
iai nations oi l'',nro|>e ; bi li.ild tlu ir ;iieirKvemi nis for di'. ueHare ol the two continents!
I'hesi l.nj^lish, these I'nneh, tlu se Dutehnien, ii.id ihcs .' };ri;iter ri)^ht th.iii we to tlu
•olonies vshieh llu\ siibjeetid ? and how have the\ fr< ated them i* Where ;iiv tlu;
f'.iribs oi their .Xntiiles? na\e the\ been iiHire disinte zested, more humane' than Sp;i
■liard.s? Are the\ not hi,L,hl\ lurlnnate in proliiiii|:^- by the siiceesse's of the* brutal buc
eaneers"? \\ Iiai erueltiis liave tiiey not been f;iiilty of in the l*i;ist Indies, in order to
secure to themsehes, not only the tn.di' and industry of its inhabitants, but even their
p-ersons, which liiey ha\e enslaved ? Neither are these ad\enturers, wliom a nation (lis-
iMjws, that are };uilty of such horrible acts. No; they ;ir(' traced by the fin}.,aT of the
ino.st able politicians in the most enliffhteiiedagc, and in the country of Milton, of New
Ion, of iMontesf|uieii, and ol Dalemberl."
'i'hns it is the anoiiMuons writer answers the cliar;^es of Masson Mcrvelliers, and the
nuiiH rous deilamators v.ho spake- by his mouth. Uut what do these recriminations
•>hcw ? Go thi} farther than to de inonstrate, that not any of the modern nations tan
llirow the first stone, \\herc the char<;e is the crookedness of policy, or the shameful
;',bnse ol power? 'J'hey certainly deeifle notliinii,- ii. favour of Spain as to her progress
in civilisation, in science, or in letters. The abbot Cavanillts enters the lists to com
b'ltthc chi'.r;.i,c of deli-, ieinv in these. Il.is he proved victorious '-'
UOril'.OAN N I
tuAVir IS
\rN
^\)i
I'wo other Sp;iiii;inl% luut l.itrly run ovi r tin vimr cfjiirv , uhirli tim hi* •• m.i<l».'
by iu<i<'li l')ii|i;ir tlrui llu in:itur woulil sk in t'> i'uniisli (^'kiiiikI i<). (..iiii|iill.it lt:tM:*>ti.
M'cnital ^i^c voliimo t«) tlu iMtiind'.iiinn of ihv iri..i>'.iriis»»r iiVMlirn S|>;iiii>li litcnlur*
.iiul Dull .liMii St luiK ri' li fi |uiMi><lu (I, in Ni'. volumes in f»i'f:\v<i, ;i work i nutUd, Spcci
III', n of a Spanisli |jt)r ir\ oI'iIm lu^t wiifirs in tli'. lini'' nl' Ch.nl' <> III, W'muUI nni on*
cuiMiivt-, III) Iit:>rin>( ilir titUs ^<( tluMi; two linoks, ill it ilic Siiain~>h nation was \a»tl\
JtrtiK' it) !;rtat writirs : tlu' most k.inuil, tju- most inli^^'IitciRU, ainuii}; all ilic states ol
I'.iiropc? Till' Until is. in thi'. inst;!ii c, nut uiili, \vlnri' in disriissions it is usiially
loiiiid, Intuini till' I \;i|;|;( ratid iiuiilp.itions «i|' t!tf I'lvncji antlmr, and tlii' >ain and
pompous assirtioiis ol Ins aiitaj;finists, Douhtkss tlurr arc in Spain niotr Karnid iiKi!
who modistly mltivali- tlic sciiiuis; m<»iv incn ol' (riidition wlio arc tliorou^^lily n«;
t|naintcd with die history and jiifisprud< nee «!' lluir country ; more distinf^nislud meij
t»r It tttrs. and a ^^n.iter inmilHr <>! poiis, po^stssid of cm r^) , and a I" itik. aiul l»rilli.iiif
imaj^ination, than is }j;ciKr.ill\ imaninul , Nut, :itcofdin|j^ to the Sp.iin;u(N thimsehes,
the present state of letters and the siienees are I'ar liom whit tluy wire inllie times ol
Mendoza, Atnhiose Moralt s, lii rreia. S,Ki\eflra,Qne\edo, (l.irrilaso, (;ilderon, Lopes dc
Wf^a, X'illc^as, Cervantes, Marina, Sepniwda, Sojis, he 'I'iu Spiinidi uni\ i rsiiies i an
no longer lioast tlie reputation tluy lormerly possessed; industry and popiilati<»ii arc
imu;h inferior to \\h.it they wire under l'\ rdinand tlu' Catholic, and his two successors.
The three last monarciishavcht en '/.ealonsly and siiccesslully employed in eiideavonrinj^
to revive those happier tiims ; but rreqnent wiirs, the disorder of the finances, and ollu i
more active causes, have allowed ol'hut feeble eneouraf^eincnt, and produced hut a lard)
prof^rcss. Kiif)wU(|}^<', however, is mneli morediirused than it was fifty years aj^o ; the
riig;n of Charles III, producicl disiin;^uished persons in v.itious branches of the sciences
aiulliterature : such as Father I'eijoo, known from his Theatro Critico, in which he has
l)ef(un to faniiliarisi the S|;;iniards w ith a just niude of thinking, and to bring them to
ha'/ard the bold llif^lits ol pliilosojjhy.
l''ather Samiiiito, author (jf several gf)od critical Wf)rks.
Don Jorge Juan, a skilful mathematician, and particularly well versed in ship-buildinj^.
Don Juan Yriartc, famous for several literary W(jrks, which do honour to his learning
and his taste ; these four died al)f)ul fue-and-twentv \ears airo.
And among those which Sj)ain has lost more recently r
Father Isia, a Jesuit, author of several pieces lull (;f wit and plulosophy, among whic''.
his Fray Gerinulio will long be celebratid ; in tiiis lie has siiew ii himself among bad
(aiachers what Cervantes iormerl}' was tu knights irriiit.
Don Francisco I\ri,i IJayer, governor of the intaiit Don Ci.ibri' 1, his enriched litera-
•nri ,\Mi many works replete with erudition ; bi sides these, nvini poet^, who, if they
have not po scssed the stnngth, and fecunday of iluii prevlec;.ssni-,. hi\r yet evinced a
taste to which they were strangers; such as C\id.;lr;lso, l.;i Iluuta, Don 'I'lioinas Yri.irte,
know n abrcai! as the anlhor of a celebrated poem on music, and some entertaining fables.
Amotig ll V- li\ i,ig, the count dc Campomincs deserves particul x inenti ,n as a learned
historian, a tvell iniormed lawwr, and one of tlie first ;iirj'jng the S,)aniards, who b\ his
writings h s awakened the attention of his countiMiien lo ilic n\i>.ns vi' lesubciiating
industry.
C.inl.iialLoixt.zano, formerly archbishop of Toledo,* a prekitc as enlighted as bene-
ficent.
• Hi' istio longer such. Towavda tlio end of th<> rru;norPiiis XI, he was dclepitcd to this pontiff, iit
'>T(lir tu foiisolc liini under liis n»i»fortuin.:i, ;is ;i ijuIjUc testimony of ihc livt ly interest whicli hi-
•});:
li 0 L' K ' . 0 .\ \ ,N L
I I.A . i !..; IN ofAlN.
The Chevalier Azan, so wvll known to all those wlicni anattailmicntto the fine arts
t'nticcsto Rome ; the elegant editor ot" the. works of Mentj^s, ^rllo.se iVicnd he had hi rn,
and u'ht) lias lately ii;iven a most excellent trjislation. In lour volumes, of the lile ot
Cicero by Middlcton, ornamchttd \vith a pivface, and Sjome en[^ravinj.';s Iromhis cabinet
of antiques.
Don Joseph Guevara, Don — Murillo, Dun 1* ratMnsco Cerda, and several other learned
men, v.ho well de>erve to Ijc better known.
Don Kugenio Izquierdo, a naturali?>t, hit>;hly esteemed by our learned characters ; and
•\li() at pri'Ntnt is the direot(jr of the eiibinet oi" natural history.
Don Casimir Ortej;;!, botanist, member of tiiL royal society of London.
Don .\iitonio Joseph Cavanilles, another botaiiist, better known abroatl than the pre.
^•tdinj;; wiio published in 17'Jl a iirst v(jlr.n;e, and in 1794 the third of a work entitled,
Icone's et Descriptiones Plantarum qn;c, antsponte in Hispaniam crtseunt, aul in IIorti>
hospilantur ; in which are described and delineated one hundred and thirty-six plants of
the 1,'otanie. [garden, fifty-si.K of the kingdom of \'alcntia, atid a jj;reat nnniberof the vi
rinity of Madrid.
Some comic and tragic poets, of whom we shall speak in our description of the theatre,
ind a number of authors of lii:,ht poetical pieces.
I^iterature is generally much more cultivated in Spain, particularly of late, than what
IS commonly imagined. Although not yet released entirely from thi ir sliackles, they
are not without means of learning what passes in their own country as well as abroad.
At the beginning of our revolution, and even tluring the war, they were very anxious
to obtain our newspapers, and in spite of all interdict obtained them. They them-
selves possess some periodical works.
Besides tlic court gazette, publiahed twice u week, in whic:h a very succinct acco^int
is given of all new works, they have Uno Merciu'io historico y j)olitico, which lor a long
time has made its appear.aice monthly, and jiresinls a tolerably impartial account of
political events.
They ha\c another work totally of a literary nature, which, since 1784, has been
|)ublished almost uninterruptedly once a month, imder the title of Memorial literario ;
;hc author Don Joachim Ezcpierra gives in it uu interesting account of all new produc-
tions, besides several pieces on morality, literature, political economy, and even on phi-
losopby.
The Spi-.iiards had for a long time possessed a periodical work, called £1 Espiritu
Ic los l^iarios majores de Kunjpe, which in 1793 was succeeded by Las anales de Lilc-
latura, Cicneias y .Vrtes, o miscellanea, instructiva, y curiosa ; which contains extracts
!rom the best foreign journals, and many original pieces on statistics and geography.
On the same rank may be placed a journal modelled after the Spectator, which h
[Hinted monthly from 1795, named Seminario crudito y curioso de Salamanca.
Were 1 to detail the whole of their periodical works'besides the Mercurio historico f
politico, a m.onth!y journal for external politics, and Las Corres mereantes dc Espagna
y de ses Indias, which s^ince 1792 is published weekly ; I should have to mention a number
of newspapers and journals ptiblished at different cities in Spain, but which have little
interest out of that kiiigdom.
liitliolic mujcbty ft-lt for his conct-rns. Cardinul Lorcnzano rcnu.iiu-d with him up to the period ofUic
pope being transported into I'riince. Alter th;tt period he continued to reside in Iluly, iurnishing u
proof, that tht; unexpected mission whicii removed him from his benefice was not occasioned wholly
by an inclination of bending u comforter to the sovereign pontifl". The urclibishopric oi Toledo has
,ince been given to the irfant Don Lewis, called the count de C'hini^hon
nnunoOANNF.'s lltWELi tN STAIN.
.>s3.->
ic fine arts
hiid 1)1 (11,
the I ill' ot
Ills cabinet
Ikt learned
:tcrs ; and
in the prC'
•1; entitled,
I in IIorti>
X plants of
rol'thc vi
he theatre,
than what
^kles, they
as abroad.
ry anxious
hey them.
ict aeco;nit
I lor a long
aceoiuit oi'
, has been
il literario ;
:\v produc-
Vi:u on phi.
^l Espiritu
ies de Lilc-
ns extracts
rai)hy.
, which i&
ca.
historico f
Ic Espagna
n a number
I have little
pcrioil of the
I'urnislung a
iumd wholly
1" Toledo has
It must t . allowed that Spain has generally very useful andver\ complete works, or.
\vi)at rega'-ds their own eountr\ . • j i i
This valuable dictionary of their own language has before l)een noticed; they havf
,s well an excellent (irammaticaCastillana, the fourth edition ol wheh was published
bv the academv six vcarsago. , ,• , ,
'They aiv now actuallvemploved in repnntmg their last national works, parlicularlv
LaBiblio' ,cea vetus Hispanica; and the Bibliotheea nova Hispaniea, by Nicholas An-
tonic, two works in high esteem among the learned, and ol whu '' u new edition hir
recently been published. . . ,, , -i i i. i
Theirticographical Dictionary of Si)ain, by Monpah.u, consideivd a complete work
has alre;'dv run through lour editions. . .
Their Maritime Spanish Atlas comes nearer to perkrtion than any nuips ot the intenoi
of Spain ; for that published bv Don Thomas Lope ::, in 17U2 leaves nuieh to be wished
for as I had nv)re than once occasion to notice in my longexcursjmv omt- tune alter
its publication. The Spaniards, best acquainted with their eounuy, na^ e, however,
assured me, that die map of die Asiurias is cklineatid with the nv.st exaei nicety.
In 1784 there appeared a publication, entitled Ilistoria Critica de Espana, by Fra\
Masden, who, notwithstanding his being a Catalan, wrote it in Italian, Irom which
language it has been translate ei into Spanish. This work, which begins with the ear.
liest known time, is full ol learned and curious researches, and displays much erudi
tion and sound criticism. , . .
This praise isespeciallv due to the brothers Moheekmo, two iriars of great sense and
intelligence, but warped 'a little by tluir enthusiastic bias towards their own countrv.
The work is called La Histcjria LUeraria ele l-'.spana : il was begun in 17 79, already in
1786 had nine volumes in quarto been given teUhe public, when, displeasing the hoh
office, it prevented its continuance.
A work less pleasantly indited, \ery dilluse, but more useful, has I)een published by
Don Eugenio I^aruga, \ihich extendVel to twenty volumes, Memorias pe^liticas sobre
la Industria, las Mi'nas, &c. de Espana. This work ee)ntains the most circumstantial
details on the productions of the soil, and the manufactures of eveiy description in all
the provinces of Spain. It se»-\ es to pre)vi-, that the Spaniards of the present day are
acquainted with theirnatural niches, and the utility of labour ; as well that they are em-
ployed in augmenting and putting them to jjiofit.
Most of the patriotic societies likewise publish interesting memoirs upon the same
^,ubject, and assist in establishing their experiments.
The taste for arts and sciences has spread from the capital to the provinces. Seville
and Barcelona have each of them an academy of Be lles-lettres ; Saragossa and Valentia
an academy of the fine arts; V'alladolid one!- e)f geography and history; and (irenada
one of madicmatics and drawing.
CHAPTER XI.
riiUE sTAii; or Mri:H.Me;i<i IN .^I'viv. kdl- aiion. manui a^: ii lu -. huau-. tanu-. v\tui
one s()ciKTii:s.
THE preceding chapter has disj/layed the title of the Spaniards of the prcs(:nt da>
to literary fame. U will, perhaps, be'sulHeient to clear them from the imputations oi
idleness and ignorance.
Yet let us not exaggerate ; dieir literature is very barren in many respects. Thc\
possess some works relative to the progress of the arts, such as that of dyeing, the
VOL. V. ^'> K
■ihl
iior!!..()AN.VE ;; ns.wr.i.s IN stain.
vctcriiiai) • art, i>;c. an elementary treatise on niathcmaties, I)y Joseph Uadon ; a .sum
niary Iiiston- of Arraijon up to its reunion with Castile ; a chronolojjjieal history of the
Spanish nohihty ; literary lujtis on Sj)ain, hy Mantlel ; numerous translations i'roni tlu
liUtin, (ireek,i l''.nt;lish and Krenrh ; soniv romances, at the head of which are deserv
iii}^ to be placed three, published b}' an ex- Jesuit retired to Italy since the extinction ol
his order, Father Monteiijon ; ealkd Kl Ante nor, ode la Cricnza de un I'rine.ipe (on
the education of a jjrince;) La I'-udoxia, on the education of a \v(jman : and Kl Kust,
!>io, a work in five volumes in many respects rescmblini^ tin l',niilia of Jean Jafjue^
Itousseau ; but I'.ot one hin,L!,le work truly philosojihieal ; althoiiirh to make amends they
have an immense number of liooks of jiiet}, both original, and translated. This is the
sum of the modern [)rodnctions of Spanish literature.
It must be owned; great oljstacles even yet oppose the ambit of diis aurora of tlu
arts and sciences, and prevent the lustre of meridian c' ly, which has been looked for
from the beginning of the present century.
1, Those who apjjiy themselves to the study of tlicm, do not yet enjoy thnt conside
ration so necessary to the natural encouragement of g( niui.
2dly, They still meet with loo much opi)ositioii fro'ii fanaticism, and its hirelin.gs
less disposed certainl} to persecution than it has be. u in foru'ir ages ; but its silent j)re.
.senee, in its numerous adherents, is in itself sullici<nt to extend the sovereignty ol
religious terror much beyond the sphere of its activity.
3dly, Kducation is yet much neglected; or what is vorsethan neglect, the rising ge-
neration is taught erroneous principles, and imbibe prejuilices which make abortive the
happy conceptions of nature, perhaps of greater promise among the Spaniards than an}
other nation. W'iil it be credited that the expidsion of the Jesuits has only tended to
pejorate this essential branch of adm'.nistration ? At the period when this took place
the inconvenience of confiding youth to the care of riligious orders was, perhaps, too
much magnified. 'I'hatof the Piarestes, known in Spain by the name of Eseol;.;:ios, is
the only one which is left in possession of some schools, and these are among the best or
rather the least bad. The place of the Jesuits has been supplied by professors, w ho may
cidicr be ecclesiastics or lay persons, but wlu) form no collective boily nor reside imder
the same roof. The Jesuits, besides the property of tlic society, had Ibundations for
difl'erent Professorships. These are the only funds aj)propriated to the support of the
new- •)rofessors. 'I'hey were sufTieient for monks living in a community, but are very
inadequate in the present state of things. Professorships so little lucrative cannot be
sought after by persons eminent for learnitig and talents. The education of youth suf-
fers theriiore by the change, and this is a circnmstaiice of sullleient importance to
deserve the attention of go\ ennnent.
It has of late attempted something in favour of a pan of die establishments for edu-
cation. Spain for a long time has had seven principal colleges at which the most dis-
'inijuished \ouths of the countrv are educated. All who hold situ;itions in administra-
tion were formerly instructi d in these. 'I'his prerogative and many other abuses nouri:>h-
^d idleness and arrogance in these colleges, and discouraged the other schools, with
which the youth of [jeojile in easy circumstances, belonging to the law , w ere obliged to
• One particularly by Sii^ismnnd Miiciiti ; wlio was for snmo time in I'l-ancr, wluM'c he perfected
fiimself in lliis avl at the 'oebt school he could have clioseii, that of Chaherl and (iilhert ; on his return
•■o Spain, he pvibiished Ics elemcutos dell.i arte veteriiuuia lie is now first director of t!ie school
established ut Madrid in 1791.
t Among different trimsluticms fiomthc Greek Wf must notice 'liosc of Anacreon,Theocrifcs, 5?c.
Dion bv ("ondi.
lot
ili.Ul<i,()ANNi/3 IHWKI.a IN MAIN i^ •
t)f satislKd. The hitUr !.:iil lum-cvtr tluir turn in the r(i!:jn of Chaik-s 1)1 Thfi"
pupils :itt.iiiud tht- highest stations and took advan.ai^i altrrwards of tkir mfiiu-nrr to
lessen the (Ufects of 'the chief colleens, rollowins: ihe stmnihis thus ir.vrn, i-ovcir
11. nt made new re^nilations respectini^Mliein in 1777 iro.i. whi. h much ^^.mhI was looker!
for. It is looked for \et. , .
Much, htnvever, his alreadv been done (or nnhtarv e<inc mon. Charles. 11, cita
|,lished M seliool for artillerv at S. .:,n,via, a ridinir school ..t O.ana, o;u; .^f en-mecrs a'
Carthap-.^.'. and another forVaciies at Avalia, ulunee it has ! .tely been reimm d to I orr
Santa M nia : at first all of them lionri-,hed. Kvery one pio i.ir. d nulividnah wlnru did
hononr to the bCveral ins-itulion.. The two last however di. .j),)e ired with t'l • ec,-dit_ot
their foniuUrs jrcnirals Ueeardos and O'Heilly. who died 1,.'. Iv, one ni i)attle li^lU!llJ:
iii^ainst lis, and the other while in pre ji.iraiion for the same iMir;;o-.e.
" We have alreadv said eiioii-h to Lstahlish the opinion of the r- id.r as to llie iietii.>,
slate of tiK fine arts. As to matters of induslr> , nianidaetnn s at ihr b. i,Mniniu,^ ot th(
present (enltnT were i^reatlv on the deeline, sinee then Government has been ae.tive in
lestoriiiM; thos(' maimfaetories whii h the Austrian dynasty liad Kit in the most deplorable
sii nation. IMiilip \', readilv adojjted the idea, but tlid not |)eislst. Icrdmand \ I, pos
S'ssed a nrm"i-.U'r in the m.'.rqnis de la Knsenida, who enjoyed oreateixdit, and joined
ciuii'-y to pii.LSerauee: he snirounded hiinseifwith tiseiul eo. operators, and availed him
s( If of their talents and eharaetir. Amont,' other use fnl works, he established all kinds
of maimlaelories in Spain, atul, in ord.r to make' th^ m smeeed, laid heavy duties on the
export of raw in iterials, totally prohil)iti d lliat of silk, and neeived with open arms
die worknu I! whieh i mis^rated' to Spain. \al.;ntia aiul Sarat'ossa vxvi lonnd the be-
iKfieial elfeets of this eonduet. In the two follnn in-'; k i;;ns, some of those manuiao-
tures were carried to a still hi-tur det;ree oi' pi riiction. ^^'e have already notieeil hou
much was eHeeted by Charles III, for those of S. ^-ox ia antl C.uadalaxara. '[ here are
manufactures of eom'mun cloths at Ksearay in Hiscay, at iioeairente, at OnteiiKiite, and
at Aleoy, 8ce. in the kingdom of \alentia, and at Cita/.al. ma in Andalusia. In the course
of this work we shall have occasion to speak of se\eral others, a!id it will be seen that
those of silk in particular have ent;at,red the attention of i;o\ernment; diat ol .^aloons
particularly has arrived at i^aeat perfection lateb , so nuuh so that little dillerenei- is (jIj.
servablc between their jraloous and those of I'rane •. There is a manniaetorv lor hats
at Madrid, as also at Hadajoz and Seville, and lor v.ine years back iorei-n manulac-
torics have felt the competition.
Spain also owes to the sovereigns of the house of B virbon tlie lew roads and canals
she possesses. We have already' notieed what her i.';o\ crnnunt has i ffee.ted towards ih;-
making of roads; as for canals' they are yet in their ixL^inninij;. ^ There is eine at the
entrance of Madrid, intended to join the Maiieanans with the Tagus, and facilitate a
communication between the capiuil and Aranjuez. Two or three leagues of it are com
pleted ; and so it remains. , i • a i
That of Castile, long since began, is nearly abandoned. The canal projected m Mur
cia, after taking the necessary 'levels in a i)ad m.iuner, and afterwards ratitymg them,
alter having obtained funds for carrying it on by the [)ompou- prospectus held out, lias
been pronoui.::ed impracticable ; the subscribers, instead of the pnjfits winch tiieir avidity
grasped at, must content themselves with the moderate interest the king has pledged
himself to pay them.
In 1784 the minister adopted a project much more brilliant and useful than that he was
obliged to abandon ; diat oi a canal, which, beginning at the fool of the mountains of
Ouudarrama, was to proceed to join the Tagus, afterwards ihcGuadiana, and termmatc
^ E -2
1%
UOUia;OANNJi o IHWi.i.S IN ;.l'Al\,
at the Giiud:ilqui\ir nhnvc Ar.dnxnr, and uhirli cMHsOfniciitly would ii;i\c tuw iitc .ind
activitv to till.' cciitn ol Spain. A Frtiicliiiian, lurmtl k- Manr, ,u:a\(. in the plan, atui \va«;
nrcnaniif; to carry it into execution, l)Ut died soon altcrward^ : Iiowcmi' the plan was
resolved, its branches s( ttled, and tlir lunds for carr) inj^ it on were ready ; tiic underta
king was entrusted to t!ie sons ot'le Maur, heirs ol'thiir lathi I's plans, and in part of hi'-
talents. It was afterwards int'irupted upon some tUs])iite rfspeclin!;- its course. War
li'tcrwards breakins^-out ljrouf.';ht on an ad(htion.il oh'^lack ; howevir since tlie return ci^
[)cacc its continuance is s( riunsly contcmpl.iti il.
But that which siiould more parlicularly c(j:Urihule to the prospirity «t|' Sp.iin, whici
ho'.\cv(r has nut yet produced all the bcnellt expected, is the modern inslilntion orpatri.
otic societies, known by the name of IVimds to the country.
The iir-)t institulicju of this kind took place in Bisca}-. It was soon foM'-'Wed by the
other |jro\inces, ami by the capital, in which a palricjtic society was cstabhshid in J 775.
At the end oi' 1778 there were air ('y Ibrty-iour, and in 1195 sixty. two. The name
of these institutions indicates their o, j The members of which they arc composed,
cncouraii^c the |)n)ii,rcss of liic arts, the , alture and industry of ih^ir pro\inc( s. They
propose (|uestions ri lativc to these objec> ,, and gi\c premiuns to those who discuss
ihem Ijcst. Tlu} awaken the industry of their fcllow-citizens, animate their 7:cal, sulicii
llieir information, '.(iw encouragement to artisans, assistan.c and advice to the peasants,
md cause the patriotic ardour, with which they arc animated, to circidatc through cver}-
'■.lass of citizens. Ne\er did a laudable institution make more rapid progress or produce
more general elUct. Those who never see the advancement oi" good but wiiii an invi-
dious eye, or whose methodical supinetiess is disgusted wirh no\elty, whose self-love Im
moriilied i)y succiss to which they do not contiibute, such have endeavoured to throw
'idicule upon tliese societies; they lia\e jnvtended that tlie mcnibeis t.ilked nuich but
perfornud little ; that they exaggerated their importance, discussing tritles with pompous
gravity. Uiuloubtedly they have not yet done every thing wiiich may be done", their
-lender funds circuiuseribe their j)rogress; l>ut the great ptjint was to rouse their coun-
rv from its stupor, to olRra stimulus to the talents of artists and the labour oi uusband-
nien, to excite their (.nuilation by the j)rospeet (jf fame, and their interest by the expec-
lalioa of i)rolit. This is what the societies have alrea.dy elVecled. Tlie leisure and sa
viiigs of peace Ifoiu 1783 to 1793 ha\e been empkned In go\enuiient to furnish meanr
for increasing their beneficence. In the beginning the h\m\H of tlusc societies consisted
ehielly in ^■oluntLlr}■ contril)Utions: gxiVtrnuienl joined to this slender stock the funds o{
the block called Sijolifsy \acaiit^.s (die- produce of vacant beneiiees i:;id iin-.s, wiiich be-
long to tile king.) Charles 111, in si)itc of his religious scruples, did not hesitate ir.
granting thus a juirt of the jiropeny of the church to llie encour.igeraeiit of these socie-
ties.
The jjatriotic societies ha\e received other enconragenients from government. V.w
iightened by them, it has revived laws which had fallen mto disuse. It iu;s exclude el such
ibreign merchandise as miglit be prejuelicial to the national mamd'actures, and has pro-
cureel to these sucli workmen as ma) impro\e and perfect them. These mcasui >havc
already been prejudicial, and will become still uiore so, to other manufacturing a.nd
commercial uatiotis ; they may excite in them murnuus anel alarm, they will doubtless
reanimate their activity and vigilance, but must meet with the applause of real patriots,
whatever be their country. France itself might even follow the example of Spain, and
form similar establishments. Her new organization is readily aelaptablc to the measure.
A patriotic society in every principal town of her departments would contriliute to
vivify that industry which iii many places has arrived at per'ection. in different branches.
UOL'Ilf.'i \ N > I-
II \ V i; t :. t v ; t \ i v
>9V
-ml .s«'N..v nhcaolffiutful frnmth. Sin,il...-.K ktRs vvuid tuivc in Ir.ma .t hoUtr
.m.u.ul t.. work upon. Its crop, w.-ukl lUKlnulntclly I). ..f mnrv spn dy i^rowih unci
mori: abu.ulant. Lit us sli. u- our alii.s tlu;; il' ur rriti. .s,. will, sharpu.ss wc yet .:aii
sotnttimi^ taki example iVntn till m, , , .1
TIk' patriotic sru-iuv ol Madrul is (liv.i;i-m.lv. .1 from tl'.. fathers only by the more
mumdi'itc protmioM of (.ONcrunu nt, and In its situation, wludi lmvcs .1 a t;n aicr lanl.
tv olac(|uirir ^ i„|ornialion and as.is.anr. . It lias, piiliaps, tcv.xr ohjc cts ou which to
t'xcrcist iis.ual, hcaiis. ilu prodtu liwiis of NcwCa^tik, iu llu: uiitrt; ol which it is
placed, aiT less various than ihos, ol the other provinces, and because lis industry is more
eonfiiicd. Hut it is attemivi to the i:n;.rov. inent of a-riculture in t u ( nvirons ol Ma-
drid, and to furnishing the i hildn n ol both sexes and the poor ol that capital with em
i)lo\ inent. . , . ...
A perfect cfinalitv is the most sacred law of all these M.cieties , rank is unknown 11.
them; the arclibl'sliopofToledo,andiludnki ofMednia (eh, inav !;-■ met with plae< d
by the side of an artisan, and information is welcomed Iroin whatever source it ma\
spring.
(iiAPrru XII.
COesClI OF CA-IIl!. ( r.KUI '.III'HI
monks; DK 110 KIN(."S 1.0M1.SS0U
lUMUF.SSl n. IHF. fONCOUHAI ') K I
PUV Kl.I.Allvf. 10 riM I'HU.'' 1 IIOOI)
AM) Al < M I>KS.
!■ \ll I Mil. Mil, V.
■> '. UK. Ill'.s OF
I.K.r.l'.I.A riDN ISI 1,1 L, Vl. 1. (Il- I 111
MTIIOHIIY (It lUK CiiVU'I <>!• MOMl
IIIF. I I.F.U'-Y. riKjOKF.SS nl nUl')S"l-
\S Madrid is the centre of arts and sciences, so is it that of government. Although
liie monarch resiiK s there but a few Nveeks in the year, and Ins mini.sters be alwav. near
his person, this citv is the seat of government, and all the supreme tribunals. W c shall
take a view of theiii collectively ; which will naturally lead us to speak ol the laws, reli
gion, finance, and militarv force of Spain. ., 1 •. 1 r .1
The council of Castile holds the fust rank among the councils and tribunals ol the
kingdom ; it is at once a council of administration and a sovereign tribunal that has an
exclusive cognizance of certain causes, and in certain cases receives appeals Irom the
other tribunals. As a council ii has the inspection of all interior operation, interesimu
to the commonweal.
It is comi)osed of five chambers : r , ■ •
1st The Sala de Govicrno, which is confined to the atlairs of administration; it re-
ceivcs references brouglu to tlie council, but it is only to send iliem to the second Sala
dcGovierno, or tothe Salade Justicia. • , , .■ i-
2div, The second Sala dcGovierno judges die causes sent to it by tli.j loriner ; and is
ryarticularlv charged with matters relative to manufactures, bridges, and causewavs.
' 3dlv The Salade mil v (luinienlos, or of one thousand live hundred, llius called l)e-
^n'lse 'those who appeal to'it from the srutences of the sovereign tribunals arc obli;.ad to
deposit fiftein hundred ducats, which iluy forfeit in case of losing the appeal.
4.thly, The Sala de Justicia, h..s ai; exclusive cognizance oi certain causes; but In
'he judgment of such as an capital is united to the odiers.
Sthlv, The Sala de I'rovincia judges the aj-peals in all imi^ortant cases, and receives
those made from the decision o\' liu'two civil lieutenants of Madrid ('lemcntesde \ lUa)
and from those of the Aleades de Corte in civil affairs.
These colled ivrlv form a sixth chamber, called the Sala de los Alcaldes ue Losa y
Corte, -escmbliuij, that known formcrh among the French by the name ol La i ourndle.
The citv of Madrid is divided into ae"e.-'ain number of ({Uarters, and die police of each is
=Mperiiii"ended bv ;ui Alcalde de Corte • who judges causes in the first instance, ip. <-uncur
'Jh
flounooA y N'L u tUAvJ. I.; in ..i.mn
rrnrc \'.ith tiir (i\il lli-iit( n.iiit>. 'I'lic (kci^inii. of aii\ Mpiralc oii«' m.u Ia- .i|t|n:il((J
IVnm lotlu uIu)U- cliani )cr abbcmhkil, wlucli aloui' (mii fiiiiilly proiuMincc upon crimiiKil
causes uiihiii its jurisdiitioii. li is in i xtraoaliiuiry casts only that tin \ aiv carried Ijc-
forc tlic C'cniiicil olCastik-.
Till' tha-nlar ofilii' Alialdis (li C.isa y Coitf was lornurly tlu' tribiin;*! which alwa)'
a(Tiim|iaiiKd the court (jI Spain. Sinci this is ti.\cd at Madrid, the Irihnnal has Ijlcu
fr.cd tlicrc alsn; ud as it lornarlN had a provincial jurisdiction around the rcsidt ncc
of till soviri i^;i, it has .suU preserved such a jurisdiction to a icrtain distance from the
I'apil.J.
'i'lit. Cnuiicil of Casiilt is the only one ackno\vlcdfj;cd by the (.jrandeis of Spain, and
all its lU' uil'( rJi.ivi the li^ht of ccnnnnuiinus. like those ol' the l rench iMriiiuient >.
•Spain is ili\i«kd into twochancerli >>, tlio^c of Oranada and VallailMlid, which have an
tXihiMw., ei»i;iii/.ant I of cirlain causes. 'I'lu Ir decision^ are not a|)peiiled hoin to vii(
Cuuiiil ol C^istile.c xci pt in two case.s, when the appellants addr^.'ss tlumselvis to the
eh.ind.KT of .Mil \ ipiinit tilos, or upon a di i;ial ol' juslire. llaili i h inrery has a particu-
lar <;li,iTn!« r, calK (I Sala de llidali^os, or chamber ol nobles. l(sr)tli(x- is to aulhentiritc
jioi>ilit\, am! to hear causes rilati\e thereto, ll has also an exclusive C'^aii-.iatice of llic
criminal imusi s ot lliv Hidalj^-n^.
Bisidis tli( se lli( ri' are UL,lit audiuicis, without reekoninsj; the particular tribunal of
Navarre, which lias the title ol' lio_\ al Council. The fun audiences (jf the cr'uvn of .\rra
i; on are those of .Saratr')ssa, B.intiona., N'aUnlia. and .Maji)rca ; and of the crown ofCas
lif,-, those ol Si viile, Corunna, (.)viulo, and the Canaries.
l',ach r lia.-errv and ca( h andiiiiec has a criminal cuurt, S.ila de Crimen, which dcfinl
lively piiiiioiMH'c s criminal sentuuis, andeausts liii m to be execnttd.
Ivvccpt a few n eririioiis, thesr tribup als have equal powtr. The principal dilTi rcncc
bi.u\t.(ii iIk chancLrits and llu .nuruiua s is, that the fnsi .ict in the kiui^-'s name like the
Council (jlCasiilc. 'I'hereare ako some imsls in which appeals lie from the audiences
of Coniniia and ()\ ii d«) to the chancery of X'all.idolid, and iroin the audience of Seville
'otlk ih,iiuii\ oiCiianala. Bui from the four audiences of the crown ol Aira}j;on the
, /• .■ • . ■, ; I- . 1 1 . . . .1... /•• :i ..!■ r ■... .-. i., .. K. ... . .1.
I'Ue;
(in ( ulain casi :-.) e. inuni ilialJy m.ule to the' Coniieil of Castile, where the causes
111 fpit. stjoii must ! I lU u I mini d accordiiii.'; to the law s of Arraf^on.
'1"1k iimii^ '1 ihisi tl,;"..iint jurisdiciions are not iliarly enout;h ilefined to j)revenl
lainiv 111 ( Ol." .>i-> b. lueui die 11)1 11 Is. \\ hilsl the (.'ouiu il of Caslile loses no e>i)portu-
hit\ of I Muiilii.i.', i's jmi-diciiiMis, the cliaia 'ies and aucru nees incessaiuly strui.^(;.5le to
support tlkir suj)reine anthe-rii}. Unless in cses of ajjpeal, which arc rare exceptions
to ihe i;iiHi\il mil, dure is no ri source af2;ainst the decisions of all the sovercig-n tribu-
nals, but revision, uhich in Spain is called su[)plica. Api)eals, in that case, are made to
the' lril)unal itself, ] r.iv iuL!,- il lo 'xvise the process.
TIu' headsol the i hanci rl^ s are called Presidents, and tliose of tiic audiences Uei^eiits.
The heail oldie' Coun' il ol Casiile has ihc title' of I'lesideiit or Cioveriior : these two
diiriii;ies diii'i r but liuie, exct pt in honorarv r.ink. 'I'he Presid-'Ut of the Coinuiil of
(^.isiik nnist a!wa)sbe a|.^randee of Spain. When he appears in public, he has p. irlicu-
lar i-iivilegcs.
Alter a lon^^ interval, tliis place was renewed in the person of the count d'Aninda in
ITrif), in OIK; of those (aim al mejnients which call i'or men of reputation ; as he was at the
same tunc cajjlain-ijeneral of ,,11 Castile', this union of civil and military power gave him
a very extensive authority, which he manifested pejssibly with too much encrjijy. He
made some enemies, and cave umbraire t(» the monarch himself; he was conseeiuently
obhiicd to fure.i;'o Iiis presidenc)- in 1773, in order to i,^o ambiissador to France, vvhlf;h
il'i'.' R I. '> \ \ N 1.
I' II \v If.-, IN .r.". 1
:->uu
vvhl'.'h
tWacUT hr lillal i<ir siMcrii \cars. \\'li;itfV(T may hv ^lid of M. d'Ariiuh, dunivj
•.iiul siiicf Ills Mdmiiiistiation ol'scvc n numtlis, Ik- roiulucti fl liinisdl'iM siicli a maiiiK r tliat
Siviin will \iA- a loii!^^ unw rur.tmlicr tlu i il iits lie disphud. M utrid, in jui-ficular,
will nol I'nimt what hr .iKrud towards its cnilHUishnuiit, its s.nirity, aiidc\(i! it
.uiuisinKiiis! It is »() his carr and iTiidiiicf that Spain owfs t!i<; cK|.nlsi(.!i of the h
Miits, pirpartd \\id> the !n\ at( st srnrcy, and ixocutcd niihout tumult. Ilr also i)rn.
rural an acrounl ol its |')()pulati(>n. ri> pectin;^' which Ik Ion; him, '.hcfc was hut a \n-\
va.rui' idea. 'I'haiiks to him, the dissipated and riv.|iirntly licentious lives of the "vmks
were reformed, and th. ir maiiiuTs r.'uden rl more suitable to their profession. 1 he-
abuses of the asvlum w hi( h the L;ivatest criminals found in die churches were suppressed
Tin temixnal a'uthoritx was defended against the pretensions of the holy see; botind
were set to those exteVior practices (.f reli<;ion, die daily processions known under th;
name of Kosarios, mori' f,ivoiiral)le to idl' iirss than devotion; and in s;jnie respects, as
we shall lu leafter find, the power (-f fanaticism was subject to controul. lie would have
proceeded much farther but for die fital interference of the confessor oi Charles III.
who, in c•^ cry thing which reij;arded conscience, eounterbalan'-* d the wii-!it of Arunda
with'his majestv. ' Since his'foned n si;.r:iatioii of die prt sidenev of the council of Cas
tile, the court al)stain( d for eip,hlien years from nominating' another ; he was succeeded
hv a sensible and moderate ecelesiasrie, M. de Kiii;ueroa, who had only the title ol' [?o.
vcrnor of die council. After his death the count de Camp')manes, as oldest ni' niber
of die council, discharged die functions of governor, without having the title iH sr.
veral years afterwards;' but on inv returning to Spain in 1792, I found the cni'-t di;
(Vssu'eiitis, a Spanish grandee, president. He died that year, and has had three succes-
sors, who onlv bore the title of governor ; that is to say, an olil magistrate, tlie count de
la Canada, afterwards the bishop of Salamanca, and lastly, tlu' present governor, Don .lo-
seph Kustaehio .Morena, w1k> before that held one of the highest situations in Uie magis.
traey. The piesidiiicv appeared at diat time to be again suppressed.
Ill griKra.l, the (jldest members of this council form what is called in Spain the Ca-
mara, whic h is die chamber of die council. It is propi rly the privy council of the Mo-
nareli, and at Uie same time a sovereign tribunal for certain causes, such as all which have
relalio'n to die succession of the nnal family, and all contests relative to the rights ot
cities fCiudides.) It is also the co'nncil which issues all i)atents of royal iavour; and
jecon.mends to his m;ijestv, through tin: medium of his minister of favour and justice,
thi\c persons to fill every 'situation in the magistracy, and the king chooses one of tlie
three. ... ,
Noplace in the magistracy is venal in Spain. This, like ali Imman institution, has
its advantage ami incomenieiice. It leaves a greater opening to caprice, favour, and
intrigue, it'prevents the tribunals from being dishonoured by incapacity and ignorance,
and diminishes the temi)tatioii to sell that justice of which tlie right of dispensing is
bought. It is true, that the integrity of magistrates fre(iuently without fortune must
appear suspicious, and that their inoderate fees^scem but a weak rampart against corrup-
tion. However, notwiihstanding the declamations of dissatis(i< d efu nts, inif|Uitous and
{)artial judges arc not more coi'nmon in Sjjaiii than in otlkr countries. On the other
hand, the Escrivanos, a s')rt of lawyer corresponding uidi our solicitors and notaries, do
not seem to me to have ill deserved the reputation they generally hold for rapacity and
petty fogging tricks
There is a kind of gradation in the Spanish magistracy of whicli the degrees arc re-
ijuUuly ascended. All the me'.r^liers of the Camara arc former coun-icllors of Castile :
tb'sc seldom obtain their places widiout having been presidents of a chanccrv or :v\
hit.)
nnCit'-OANNKV. lIlWKI.u IN \iVMS.
■mi\W{\ci\ ov .it U :ist formtrly cnunM-lInrs of one ortluso tril)im;ils, or AliaUU' (li" Coru . in
the sumc'niamu r it is I'ront ainonjj^ tin adv oiatos, conr^'iflors, or alniliU s ini} <-n s tint tlu
hUtir air chosiii. It is luro lucrssaiy to !;i\i' sniiv a( fount c^f tlusf .\lial(k -, <.l w lu.sc
ofticcs lore if;iKfs in Riiicral ha\f but a viry coiifustd i(ka. l*'ii->t, tluiv aiv iwo rIas.Ms
..fsiinplc AkaUU s, uhoaiT istablislud in tllf citi* s. boiouglis and \ iUiirts. 'I'lu' Alcaldi
ordinario judi^c'sin the lirst instancr, whirc iheiv is no com^^idor, I)iit in places \\\vn
(.hciT is onf,'has c()p;ni:-iiH'i' <>l\ivil caiisis in tf.ncnmiici' with him, and tliosi' almu
ihi.' AK-aldc pidancc), who is coninionlv lalan lr..ni tho toninion propli', has u<> othn
fnncti.n hnt to amst dilinciuctits. and i:auiu the ofdtrs <:i' the com};idors, or the
il aide nunor. .
'J'lu simple Ah-aldesare difVuvntly .ppninud. ae< ordm',- 1') tlir piivikj^vs ol the lUtk-
.ciit eiuinnnms. In s',)nu' plaecs lhc\ air eh^M n In die tnunii:ipaht\ (av nnlaniuntos) n;
f.d.ris. I)\ kU; Nvhik: in dilkrent oi'u s th. > air named by die cuuneil ol' Casiik . the
tribunal 'vi' llie proviiKr, or thv lord of the tnaiur, who ihooses one IVuin dure pirsoii^
(lopoMd to him. TIk-v air ehan.m d eviry \eai.
Till' Alcaldts >ki\(!rVs, or Corn. i.';idors, are allnaimdby tlu km.L,r upon iIk- prtsmta
tit.iMl'the Camara.' This ink rior "dri'ur (;l" ma.^'istraey was lonnuly uiukr very im
projier re-nlations, which i^oMrnnunt ha^, late 1\ nicn.iuk 'I'lu- place of eorre^ndcn
uaslKsiowul on persons uV small ioitnne, who lu Id ila ir plaeus tlirte years, when iIkii
MJlioe t spired, and ihev wur a!^riii\ ubli!.':ed to have nrourse to new solic itations. How
(fuild it be hoped, that men with want staiini^Mlum in the lace, wonid lu.l be viokntlv
U niplid to insnrt themsehis resonnis at thf expi lur ol' those over whom duy [)()ssess(d
a transient anihoiity '? ll was, at kni;th, drttrmiiud to birnish tin ni widi molivis lot
t tnnlalion, and keep dum IVom ti r.ipia'ion by enactin;:;, that lor the Intiirc they shonid
.■ontimie in olhee six years instead (>t'thire ; that there should be three elassi s ol' CorreLji
mieiitns; Irom oneelass olwhieh tiny should pass to anollar, alu r haviiis^- w\ 11 discharged
die duties ol" their k)rnier place; tlial tluir emoluments should be increased at evin
removal ; and that having thus gone thron<;h the three classes to the satisl'action of his
majestv, thev sh.ould have what in Spain is calkd llie honour ol' ToK^i^lf, fl'^'t '>^. tliL^t'itk.
and prir( i^atives annexed to the place of counsellor ol' the snpirior tribunals. Thi'.
plan,w(.rtiiv of a wrll organized n public, was eoiic. i\ed by M. de Campomaius, and
executed bv M. de Florida Blanca, when minister of lavour and justice, an elVort which
may be looked u|)onas meritorious on die part of the latter, k)r these two men, lormerl)
.:oli( aLnus, and then rivals, wrre never iriends.
liesides these three classes oi' corrtgidors, there is one of another kind : it is thos(-oi
\hidrid and Seville, two cities in which die magistracy is peculiar and distinct. The
•orrcgidors are for lik-, and must not be taken Irom the profession of the law; tluy are
no more than chiefs of the police wIkj preside at city meetings, biiU-figitts, and the j)ublic
acts of the city. The civil lieutenants, Tenientcs de \illa, have a jurisdiction iiuk pendi ni
of their autlioiitv, but these supply their places in presidencies. Besides these, Madrid
and Sc ville have' Uegidores, a kind'(;f inspectors, w ho maintain the police in concurrence
'.>. ith the eorregidur.''-
" At Miuliiii in ••very ([Uiirtcr llitrc is i-ai Alc.iilcU- ile Buvpo, u son of t uimni^^sury who. siibji ct u> the
Alculdc dc Coite, HUiHriiiliiidstiifiiiaintoi.unic ol' ti\f iHiac. L.i'-Uy, there is a nuitjisOMti', < alUd Su-
ncriiiteiid.iiiU-, csijiciallv < !.;iii!,tii wiUi tlu- ii'.;ai;a';eiuciit cf tlic pdliee in coiicmTciuc witlithc Ahaldcs
.:,t< ite,iii(C(ai(;.,i(loi, ilu'T.hi.hK-.lc Villi^.^auhlu Ucj'idoris. Tliis l>UiCf, svhicli much ro.scin-
;.li's tluit ol tiii;l'(jinurliemni;iui-, dc INjIuc al I'iais, iii\'.:s\s u uMisidcnible pcwir in the hiinds ol the
l.i.ldir; I'v uic.uis of wiiich in nol oaly li.couns foriuidahlc to all tlic disiui l)i'r.s <j{j)nl>rn order, but,
,a iiu.ir. ai.uiiis V. it'll Lis vi's.'tiou-. \ i:,i'l.iine tin- n\ost oliscui'f a'.'l inofl'eii^ivc d\vidruu;s. Such us umy
i:uve li\.d at Math i. I Kiuaidr, il'.c nid Of th«' n i|cn of (.'.■.ui li s 1 1 1, will l.ot hesitate to place M the hot-
•.Minoithis poiii'Ji tlu n.ui'cofC.airoahat e!ii...f oi :hr ii..;i..^. \sl,', !'..;■ juovf •Iran ten vci...-.- \v;,s the -'-a.-'--
(.r.;v. i.l ihu vt,.k. uiucii n.L'i'e lli;ui the j'U'.ltv ,.t M.uml
(U>i"Ui.«) \NM I 1 i( \v K I i IV .:• A fN
1-^,
Ki'iu tliii ronstiiiitloii. whitli is certainty ^otni wli u coiMitlii.Mti'd, ilmiii ■ Jii i]u»*n'
lasliiiii^s <il jiirisiIirHnii .ltn'l^^ i\\r in.i;;i.->tiMli s ; but, on tlic -itlur li.tiid, l!«ri«j .if U-v
<;itics in I'-iirup^' in wliidi tlir poli^o ix lultiT n ^^'ulatid ilim at M.idtid, wlun iImI'
is more sail t\ , or wli' i*i kwir rriims ar< (ommilt-.d wlih'a > ^ api tin \ i;jil.»iua' «>'
iiistiro.
It iiou' rcni:iinsto cnnsldi.r, l>y whit code olliiws jiiitiri' is admini anid iii Madrid
as nill as in tin. i\ st ol ilu' kinj;d'an. It nii;;Iil \n- said, siiirily sjx akiiii,', that tin l{<auaii,
or risil l.iw liis no ])o\\vr time. This, Ii\ sriuir old onliii aiiti s ol' t!if kiii;j,s ol (.'astilf,
isivtii tMrhiddi.n, iimkr stvtrc piiiahics lo Ik' <|Mott(l, 'I'Ik m* la\\s. ho\vi\tr, arc iii
(|iuntly coiisiiltcd in practice ; and lawyers, without Iool»';a,,Mipon the rode as iiilallil)!. ,
(Itrivc I'roni it rrcqncntly Ik)iI> iulonnation and prcccdi ills. The lorm ol' prociss iu
Spain is conrorinablc to the Uoinan law, e\repi a dill'crence ia firms and in the pro-
duction of dm iiiniuts. 'I'luy are itportt (1, not >is in I'lanci 1)_\ niein'Kis ol' tlv trilaiiiai.
hut l)\ p.a-liciilar ni i^istratis, callid Uclalore-,, \\ho>.r [)l,.ri s .<w very Inii.itlvi, ,iiai
ronscfpH ntlv niiieli soii;;!it al'ur. In impoitaiit imsi s, one oj'thi. counsellors i-, ili pul< i'
to ( xaiiiine tin prociss, and mike his re[)orl to th.- triliiiml.
'I'he only authentic; la\\s hy which justice is administi red, ai'i- rcjj^isti iid in the codi>
puhlished l)V the ancient kin^s; sneli are the L( y d< las lit tc Partidas, tin Ordiiiainieiiid
Ueal, the I'm. ro-.fii;'jj,'o, and i''nero.l{eal. Tlir piineipal coilc. that w liich is in constant
use, is callid Kecopilacioii. It is a colkction ol vaiioiisand distinct idii is ol the nioii
iichs ol Spain Iroin the earliest ages to the present iei;;n. A niu edition is given ra)in
time to time, in which all the laws pnljlislud sin( i the last are inserted.
It was pretended in cirtain loreign prints, that Chark>, III, Intended to y^\\c a lu \\
laaminal code to Spain, 'i'he assertion was tintriie. The rumour had its orii^in in tin
ronmil ol Castile, In the ai^ciu y ol' the count (k- Campomani's, who was then one of
its liscales, havinu^ proposed the revision and rcTomi (if the old criminal laws, sonic ol
which were absurd or disL;iislin!^. I know not whellKr this work bi, } et completed,
but it has already produced a tract on the penal laws, the work of a}onn^ lawyer
named Lardi^^ibal, which appeared in 1781, and maybe read with pleasure aiul advuil
tai.;e, c\cn after the celebrated essays of the marquis of Beccaria.
This I-, the proper place to speak of the torture; that barbarous institution aj^ainsr
which Uiat motkrn phdosopher has so forcibly exclaimed. It is not yet formall\ ab()lished
in Spain, and still linds some defenders. A few years a,L^o an ecclesiastic, named {.'astro,
undertook a formal apology for it; but his work, which inspired almost general indig
nation, was victoriously refuted, to the great satisfaction of the reasonal)le part of ilu;
nation.
The canon law is the received code in Sjiain in all ecclesiastical aliairs. It niust not,
iiowcMT, be imagined, that the court of Madrid pa} s implicit obedience to the orders
of the Holy Sec; as one is tcnijjtcd to conceive from die part played even now in Spain
by the numerous legions of modern Uonie, which, like the ancient, aspires to universal
dominion. Heligion and its niinister'^ are without doubt siill held in the greatest vmc-
ration, and the |)riestsatid monks, under the pretext ol' dir( cting consciences, lake jiart
at times in tem[)oral concerns, and abuse the conlideiicc placed in them by citduliiy.
Hut these abuses, even under the reign of the more pious monarchs, were in many re
^pccls su; pressed ; after being f(jr a great part of the last century encouraged by dieir
example. The dangerous intluence which Father U'Aubenton, aiul his successors of
the same order inj(j_\ed at he court of IMiilip \', is remembered with indignation; as
likewise tlrat of Tather Uabai. o, the last .ksuil who sat in the confessional chair of the
Spanish monarchs, with I'VidiiMiid \ I. 'I'he < onfes' or of the last king f.)r a long timi
i;-
tt,iur. I. ■ \NM.
A \ t t. • I N I ^ « >
'" :' ,,,,. „,iau.l v.rv l.ltU M..1'. m.turs l<.n i;-.. to 1..-, Imuli..,.. ( 1.. . • > HI.
;u;!.; ,l!'i:'c::t.n..alh nv.u.l Inm . m, ,1.. au.rn... .1.U .^ . ..;- ... ...
^. unci' iiioiv tint' imtr f. i'ri'^^'« I'l' l^rMiwy ol lii>/.uil. >"i. spiu ..i uu u
,.ll, , , u . n. I.i.hunnrsandullKr.ccks.asti.aUli^nUKS wind, uuval 1. disposal
Tu^ k ,. • ami in .Lis po.nl ..f vie w .n.j^iu In c...,sidcad as possess.!.;, .1. .......na-
n o I mil ■ s. Hut even in d.isn>,Hc:,, his inllunur uas aluruards .•nnn,>sa .l.u!
ind du ai^'lt,uc,.t to vac-antsecs voud i.. d.: coauul. 11-... da lila.ua, as nun.st..
'' Th^'IiS^ ^t\;\n,s ofSpain to ..u.ninat. to the- ,.vat Ik .wlu-cs of d.- i.- <Ionduionv
Ins iv, Wal.lv allowed o'.lv si.ux- the year 17:V,, d.c dale u d.c .'onipaa Ik-
on .I's a,usi;.ou.l and the Holy See : till du.. d:c .^UaU-m to lx..d.cxs had hm.
c . rl o IWqucnt contests Iniuxcnlhe tuu courts. NeKOt.at.on ^vas at ast uso -
: t ih. iKsi'n.Klc orck.aminali.,..; for this purpose S,.a...ckpntc<l the ah n-
^. ; ,^,^ ^, ,,,„ ,.|.,„,.ui „„1 eo..elhatiu^- cha.-aeter, a..d u ho has s.nc. '-- ' | ^ ^ '•
huM or d.e eouncil of Castile. The result was the compact ulurh has uTeNocahU set-
•k d the relalienis betueen die erov i. f.f Spai.i and the court of Koine.
Tile iloU iee conlirn.ed the ancient' right of the kings ut Spa.n to the no.nnuU.un
.i.h - eonler those ut least Nvhieh becanu- vacant n, the apostohcal n>o,.d,s; hut tlu-
^ p te.,un.u-a,ed nhv-tuo Ik nefices which should he at the ..onunal.on . he Hoi v
S^ with obligation to conter the .n upon .,o,.e but Span.arc s ; and it w.^ alse) fVf^-^
daVtle opcshoe.ld not delegate thii power of collation ; that the be..ehces shon d bo
excn^^^^^^^^ puisio.'.s, a..d that the. titularies should pay no cede, as bancar.as 1 he s
:^et.Lcts made with the apostolical chamber, by vmhuc o -'-''^'^ ^^ ;;^^^;;^^
nnad to pay a eertai.. sum. Tins su.n he ireejuendy d.d not possess ; " ;^» ■<''^ ^^^^
liJi' mostc lieial ehand)er advanced it at an cnornius interest, and kept age. ts m Span
o^e;c U^sc Jag ments luUilled. These- rumous abu.e., which U wa. wo..dn>v.s should
Min* '» \ \ N I.
t i( V V i I
t V
.» ' I N
iiU.<»»M III I'.iiropi- III ilu lHil» ciimiry. s< nt in If nth nm' v» ,ir uitTi iiinthr!. ,t fith ,,f
ilir t\Mi Mm ()l .ill till Im ii('ii< t'H
'I'liis w.iMioi liii oiils irn|iii.|iiii t_\ .ilwilj ,'ii (ll»\ iiic ftinj. i- f |'r» vioijs t'. inli« iiopr
f>;i(l iiln;i\-> ili-.|)(»»,ul ol iIk sjinli^ y v.ii'tiitis, tli.il l^ ».| iln |»ri'j,- m\ »,» «!. f< ,i«,c(| pre.
I.itis and lilt ii\.i)iiiMi| v.ic.iut l)t Mt 111, ■,. Till ,ii|iniiii.<r,iti lit <i| »ih s'' ltiii<!'> \».ih -om-
litli'd In .III oIIki' inmp(»>,((l n| Ii.iliin,, s»> i \|urt i>i iltr, Ihi-.'M' ^s tliii i iMiiUli n\ ihr
prntllici ' I IJM'M' Ix m lict <» tlili Ippt ii.illiv III' II lip;n'ini|i III i'l!| rliirH'. Mv tl' r>>|!'ip,t('|
ilu' l]t\\ .Si»' iviiMinn'»j| tJuM i( \( iHus mid' r flu' Mii,;lt •■iiiidiii<tti tint tli' i.dii>i'iisfr.»
lit III i»i llir ^|>l«liM^ y \.u;iiiU •< sliiiiiid Itf "i.iMfMl I'l lioiif lull .III (< , !. ,nsfi'' . <v l:ii;li tii
»!iiiji: n stii''iiiiii tin s i,(it lni\u\ir pivMiit fit, Niii;,;'^ cij' Sp.iii li'iiiidispttNin ; i>l' llu-tii
iHconliii;;- ».) tiii'ir plcif^mi . 'I'll' iniMi-^'ri tli \ iimiic (in;il-.\ , ,i i» .v, ■,\ i\y m n 511 iki.i;
.■d\.iii('.''. H) tjic in »\ prt'hi' s n III! u 'lit iii..ih;, l-ir llii if i -.• ilHi.Ini • t. |i !■ ,K(riir.'
nuiikid, !■/ till' i.i.iiM (>t ilu di^iiiHi' il .Sp;,nish "Kri';} , tli.ii tli.' np.-v m. ,it <>l tli. v '(U.n'
• X N ll,i>» I'l \ t |- l)( ( 11 kii"\\ II I'l hi I.. ;.'!( it' (I.
.Ahlui'i rli 11 lie M';;iiil 'ltd l)\ iIi. i 'nupirt t!i it the pridiKr of tju' spf,l|o, \ \ .,,■ hi'' -
^ii.ill Iji \\;i.i!l_\ colli! . i.it' d I" pi'iiis ti« s, till' kill;;-, ii', \*i- liavt oIimtxi d, tuiVi , li-i s.i-i).
pK »'l Ml'i 1m\ i;^; ;i p,rt ni tin ;n III tl,'. Ml' ' i(ii';i j> Ml' lit mI' in'l'irtrv . MtdiVtii i:i r, w :-r(i
•)l III ill I u) s> r\ k. ■, : liijt till' ill, pa IM fiin.il'iiil\ rl:i)Mii !■• lr|iii'l.i'< the pri.'n rt\ 1 »l ;!«•
ffiM d pi I l.in,-., ai.d to I'tliiiihis't r t<i tin r< \< I !!". <ii -luil \ !'■ ml l.nu lii\ ,, ^,,'•.,4 jim, s
n tlin I ilii.m I'. «.••, -iiiiir;!i i.l tlu ir n ;i! \:ilii, ,
As 111.' r()iiip,,,'i di pri\«(l \\\r IIdIv S' oI v.,,|,„- 1-, V. ;;ii. s, tlh f'.i'.t .il' M idrld in t nm
pili>;i:inii ui!.:..|,.d t(. p;,y ii \nv oi.v put t!ui\'.r. ^i:, Iiii;irlt\d lli'.ii-.iiid |{r.iii;iM 1 im\vii«».
Ixariii!;- ii'UivM lill p lid <_•! diur pi 1 i . lit. ;ii,.| n<\ tli. nth. r ,1 smu n( tlirt( liiiiidnd ;imi1
hn llinii-,aiiii ( I'nuhs 111 irin}:- ilu«.,iim iiitn'i ^t. Lis'lv. tit. li'iH nf tlv (.ins ir|. u.isrni-
dirill pitpail.il. iVsldis tlu>-,r V n.it|il,iilinus uhi.li Sii.iin |),i\ s t.i tlu Il"l\ Su',
iIk' pioiliirr III i)i,iriM;,i di'-|H :is:ii i, ms '-.lill iiin.iiu-, i, tin pn-,>„ ^^imi nj' tin liiiu, aiici
l!l;i\ lit,' ( '.liiiKiti (I :it lilliiii liiiiidiAil tIi"Ms;(ii.l Iimv's > (i.i.,V .( ilJ ,1 \\ji\
.Siiiii; ili.it puind dit cniiit nl .\| .(liid Ins \iariiil\ iK H iid..(l I'h" ii.;iits nl snxcrd^'ii
authni-ily a;;:iiii:t till pit trnsiniis III til' llii\ S' c. Ii i, imt I'lr-.itt' 11 inuli.ii iiuiiiKrit
rtfiivirl till' atliiioiiition nt' (liimiu XI 1 1, in ihc intuiil oi' I'arni :. 'I'lir t oiiiifil ot
(.'astili Mip|)i-i ^^t■d all ilif ( "pi. s, and foniiiiaiidi i| tin sanu tn Ik d,,'ir v, iih all the k t-
u rs. I* Ills and hrii is w Iiicli slinnid In r'aiml , oiin.iiA in tin rn'.al ri 'lit-, nv tn tin lui a-
Mirt>taktii In i;(»\' iniiunt, ri ik u m^ liic :ini ii lit I iw u lilih diiinniK mI ilu pain nl tit .ith
and canliscaUon ai;'ainsl an)' |Ki-sons wiin shnnid dare tn ik u- tin in.
(-h\ litis occasion tlif CDiincil ol'Castilt, nl wiiicli tl, i.Minl d'Araiidi was dun piv
sidt.nl, pill ill rorcf i\(ry pnhlir ad In wliich iIk' kimrs nf Spun, Imm tlu linu' ol
Charles \ , iiad ii;(ka\nnrtd lo liii,(Lr lli'j j,li-,ii-,sii)n of tln' Inill in ( .I'lii D-miini, so
lar as it was pit jndicial tn the s ivt ni^nty and jni isdi.iinn (,f ilu' ti nipnral lril)nii:'.i ., and
fniiiniandcd all arclil)isli')ps ami bishops oltliv kiiii^'dnin I') pi> st nl it-, piil)lit,atinn and
nlott'cnunt in tlK'ir st.\t.ial iliociscs.
.S;:.iin has hisidt s the rcsoni-i:i: nfits appt.::ls liDin abiisf^ a'^-ainst t!i> idiirf of U^iinc
Jn 178'1 a Spanish work appcatvd, on this snliju t. iiiiitk-d Ma mns snlm r< ciirsov
lie iniiv.ay protection. The clcrf^y. and tspt.iall;, tin in. 1;, nlll.a , ilu. aiK i'.nt « i.iisti-
liitinnol which was |)iinttd at the t ml ol tin work, \ iulra\onicd in piwi'm its pul)li<\i.
livin ; bill ihe conni li ol CastiK and iIk ininislt r openh pmtult d th'' aiitiioi-.
iMvas.it die same pcriodalsotli.il the |)n\vi is ami ])ri'vilt !;es ol'tlie ninu-io in Snain \'.eic
(onliii"ii to adistiii'-t e. stent, lor noiu ilhst.indint,^ the ordiiumccs ol tli. pr. <:t diiii;- sn\t.r-
ei^ns, ihe nuiieios IretjiKntly look ad\anta|.';e nl ih'- detlrenrc uliie!' ;h. .Spanianls jiaid
ihcm to exceed their ri'dits.
lO;
II"
i-ii.,n \,vM.V. iitwrtn IN .1' u^.
TiuW .11. i.M-Mt nimun.,' r.im.lv. tlu. n.xK nthrr ..lUmi.t. m ulu.-h iluv 1.im»
dnM M^.V , u ,, HM ...,!,.•. mm i.m.r... Mil s..l.s..iululn.;KU., I ,1. ..,,. . nr ni th-
. '^u V \ s tin n,>lx iucl.;-. nl tl.>s ...l..nul. .. .-..t.. tnu.Mlr.l l,> .1... .;l It-uu. an.
»o thr i^<»otl ••! tin stat(.
A', will ;i^ tlial, \.\ Ik in- ohli^i'l tu n'sidmcf at ll.in- su s,
'' Tl'^ s;:!,!i;nls tin . ,» .-Inis ...... d. a.U tha,. <nlK ,• -. .. s wl.uh r-C;-! t<; n.orc phi.
\ ,, IsoplRrii. M.nu nsiKcts, this nnnislcr must be alloucd lo have lu.d vcrj jusr
1 VTci^m^mrs V or a ma..v vrars he had l.tc. a close spcctaior „ the Holy
^r;:^^:;;.!^ aUhuvn^^^and h.ul brought back IVo.. Home the h.bat.dc ol .r.
1.1.1' Hi." \ N S I
) \ \ l.\
j(iS
'i tl)|il)tin"' ihi tiliji I Is m| ihv «i'l|i ration III tilt rutlihil U itlto'lt « ictillHI.i^ln, U>iili, Ins
pruli 1 iNi'ii ill ilu niiiiisii) I'! i>urt\ uiiil |ih.iii r, luil .tU" i> idul a I'lii;: true u* U-imr,
usundiini' «>r thi I'ota. On h: • iMiiiii, tioCuitlint.inditi^ Ik' u.is otiii Kill\ siirruuiidi il lis
nuMik^ iiml priisis, Iti' iiuu'' iin (I niiil «\i(i i-rorij-Md ()|)iiiii)tis n sp'ctitifr tlic iisiirp.i
tioiii o| till tniiii nl U'MMi r^* I'!' '» N\<-i« !""l.' •! ii|>')M as rasli, wliif.li \\vti mhiIii «(iiitiMi\
hill naN'iii.iliK , and I'l iIkm Ik « oiilonn' iI Iiiimm It in iiis trails. I'tious. \\\ re S|Kiiu hi
havciiinmii»tiirii|iit (| MUtissiun ol i;(liiii!iWi\.toi"> vimilar u> idtv l«'i, uul nsi luMiii;'
sofin (i| till iiiiiiiiu r > (li tin |ii( SI III <l,i_\ , s'loii wo il«l sill \)v rcl'.;istil Ii'imi iln.' liuly i.\ \«.H,
wliiili li.msu viril_\ nalii (I In I f'lr tin l.r.l luinLiitiit its.
'I'liiDiil'jiuiit iIk |ii« '.uit li«r piH'ti s. is |Hrri|»ti')k. Otiicr nrof/fsi xi.sl of it I)im,iii1
v\luil ut liavi' liitjii III) nil, iitintu (I. 'I'lu s' vi rit) uitli uliiiji llu cfnirt mI Madiid liiis
trt atiil till .S(n ii l\ iilji MIS, till. 1 .iiiMiiin il \ l};o(ii' \\ itli wliK Ii ii pnrMH d tin .Ic nils, t V( ii
tu llu 11 t \tiiic li'iii ill tin (oiiii III Iviiiir, tlx ltaii'|Uiitt\ ut Uu luitinii whilst tht..( tm .
•lures wcri' carrviiij;' iiitorM-ciitioii, pinvi diat S[).iiiirri>iii'li(.siii)i so inmli.is it is ( oiu
nujiil) bilicM'd l)iiiiatli llu \ Ilk"' )!' sti|ii istiiimi, and llu: ab^'iIuK i iiii<li" <it iln niMid '
( llM'll.H Mil.
Cn.\H<i>S AI>\tN<t.. AM> III I |M I III
U> \ III I. I S I li \ I ). . \ ll\ I N I I II I
rifl.S. Ill Mil. >.\N!\ II I M MA Mil
MM l^nll«.| I |OV I VIMl II \ I IiiV III.
')! ,M. |i' >| 1' M»|^, nil SI S I s I \ 1 I
>MI tl>>l.^ Illi'i I II III l|i|<i|>,
I iiw M' I II ni I f ^
(• I III IM^I I'^l
TIIIsUl' is yet oik; nlii^intis iiistiiii'iii'i in Sp.iiii tu \\ liich philisopliv nioiirns tosu
tlut nali'lii subji-'ct, I iu» an tin. II -ly Olli. ( , tliat tiibntiul to vvlnrli i \ 1 1\ ndiuus I'pidki
lias loii^ 1)1(11 applied, .tnd uhicli li.is still in Spain two powcilnl snpporlcis, pijlii:) and
rclij^ion.
'j'lic li.ink iiu\i;'rt!ality with whiiji I i. spLiintd JU} si 11' on llu snhji ct ol" the Iinpiisi
lion in my I'nsi (.Jition, tli\s\- u|)()n inc rcpnuulu's ol a \i.iy dilluxnt LompkAion. On
the one hand, somi Spaniards, in other i\ sp,.(,ts Wi II inlorimtl, aci-iised iiie olhaNiiiij; too
mnch hei^hi'iiiKl ihe colours in winch 1 had painted the Hily Oilier ; on the ollur, the
French, alter veadint; the disi-ripiioii I |.';a\e of it, ace us< d nic of loo tniich moderation.
und even ol impostnie'. i'uu ed lieiweui lliise lwiis!K)als how am I to steer: slxJiild I
relate what I have seeii,aii<f jjrive 'jjv own o[)inion ? I did so before ; I shall continue tin
same line of eoiidm.l.
Its deleiulers alledj^c thai the authority of the sovcrei^^n finds in the Holy Oilice a
liHiMis of nuikin|.i' itself resincted. since by enchainini^- the consciences (^f the subjects, it
provides additional security for their obedience, and pnveiiis those variaiions anclinctT.
liludes in rdif^ion which lia\e but too fiM|nently disturlied the piace uf society. 'riic\
assert that In jts means the true laidn)rLser\es its unity and purity, and attribute to the
liKjuisition the trin'/illity whii-h Spain has in thisres()ect consiau'tly cnjoud, while llu
otlu rCliristian slates ui'l'luroiie, at dilVerent peri(jds, have experienced all the biiicriuss
of doj-nnatic. f)uan\!s, and the' turbulent x.e'al of innovators.
Olhtrs ,:;-u still L'lrlhcv. Will it be believed thai a map,istratc, olherw ise distintjuished
f< r lear!ii(,.<,% and who prcsentctl sofjie energetic representaliuiis to Philip \', upon the
u^urpu'ion of the Holy Ollici (I allude to Miicaiiax); will it obtain credit that such u
nuiushou'.l be 'be ir parli/,anl' lie, however, wnjte a work in 175(1, iu<l repriuted, luiw-
ever, uut": 17«S, which has for its tide, Defensa Critiea de hi Intpiisiiion.
In it lie states that, by the allowance of heretics themselves, the Holy Oilice never
seizes upe n any one before the crime M>th which he has been charged has been sub-
stantiated by live witnesses, nor condeinus until two additional lestimoni-s appear i.'
.|,^„ hoi:nr,OANNf.'5 riiWXI.a IN STAIN.
'u.tlKiuioiUcthecharirc of the first, where it is not rendered unnccc^isary l.y the conf.-s.
s r. 1 >r Umt f.r the f.rst and second offence it grants abs.P.n.on. upon he
'k' ! . ed KTso " ^^^^ pardon ■. that it indues errors only aeeordn^K to the cnnsel ol the
most^ Ih^^ d doeto.l of the ehnrch; that the culpnt s uxl I taken care ol m 1m^.m^,
^h^'d^as oi ten as he may reqn.re ; tlut the heads of tl. eluujj^s o wlu. h he sUnd.
..rriisfd n-e reid to him, hidinir noihint; 1-ut the names of tlic witnesses , I. n 1 mor n
f:i;X ;;.: Xl^S n " Veuact^d, seeu^r jnstiee adn.inisters the pcnaU.es appheator. to
'^ In't ;;ee;;:;::r^:;;h mnh is contained .hid,, however^ should i^ ;;-;:;^-^>--
,vrl does not tend to lessen tlie honor uhieh du IiuiiMsn:on mspiP::.. .1 apoc... to 1 1
Tov d ,'if m.ofs can l)e expeetal at all ulcere the l-irlies concerned are enjou .d to st-
I "; n I th ,^ h> of the uu.st dreadlnl pnni.hme.U.) that the pnv.Krs ol the aq.n-
doii althon,h !nacee.sib:e to any ^isit iron, the exter.or ol " >;■ F-^: '- J^^
treated and well fed; that tl;e physical torlnres to whun U 'M iV er U it V '; fo^
j.ct are mere ehin;eras, unenied by resem.nenS a,>d propagated 1 ; '^^;>;.^^ "^
i.r.r.atte.s which have anv things of c xlraord.uary to reeoanne...! than, o., n in.y be
•ft nil nrictibed that die coca -.ions have been cxeu.dmij,lyr.av. ,. , t :
' M !;• ■dd' that agreeable to the eomesMon of the ^reatest ....-mu. o . ..pa-
.iti.an such as ^o c,f tlun.s.lv.s to deeiar. tla .r < r.-m's, and rq^n a e u.atc ^
ncss ; that those m lurh tlay arrest, if they ..tract, they "-'t^"".^';'-^"-^";^^ - ''- '• ^ ' . ^
.nu: then, with sci::,;.v:, ibr the s::kc of j:m,, they arc calumntatal, snu^ 1 e . "■' /; : ^»
ul; r 'he advaiur'v of the sovux in,. J'mt n\ Ik.i must one dunk ol Macauaz a u oil is
t^oli.:; uh ; ii di^ ulous ^raCltv he affirnts that the Ino-dsi^ion "imposes no pmnsh-
Tnr ;.) t sj uhu are lised in tluir error, and "a.,k. .or nothing bnt the sah.t.on ol
he hie of ti;e in - that if th.v beeon,e c.nvrtcd, it coniines itsdl to applying c..no-
•c:d p.:ilmuus,-but that the suord of the law, which ^'^ --^ M^^S ^^^ ^
tril^m al f ).- t'ae clustisen.ent of the gnilty, " is sonu times reddened w iih ^l^'; '^ ""^^ ^^^
1 ^•' v.. evendieiit is done with the h.,lv v ieu ol converting many by he pun sh-
:;:ofou "as commonly hapr^tts.'' Reasoning is nnneeessary.s.lc.ttnuh^^ou
lithe onu ap-.y sneh phrases culim ; and d-.ese from a magistrate ! Irom a pie tended
I'hiloboiilur! and in die eighteenth cetnury ! ,, ^r i., .1,;.
^ Raa ndnation is o.e of tiie principal nuxlesof deRnccad..ptedby >toz. M^
^ lev- he M-ese.Us a hunible pictnre of the perseentmg reign ol Lhzabeth ; and cites e
. roci ie exercised in Fnmie bv the heivties. Acco.ding to him die p.ocecnre o c
i m. lion s a model ol justice and mercy, compaiul with the horrible treatment the
Z^ ced ' Thns, according to Macana., and doubtless the same sentiments exisR>d
^li " ^llo have cmsed his w..rks to be printed a.d reprinted ; because our ancesuns
were blind and atrocious, our contc n-poranes, who are perhaps a h le ^^^ ^'^ '^ f^^^
were, or rather let me say, tha:: of our contr ,r,p(aar.(s who give tl e i«\" Z^' ;;^; "^
ustice to the crueUv of enthusiasm (and who are nmch less pardonable, since they luvc
01 io'- ex 1 the delirium of the passions) those have list pretensions to esteem and
:^:!l,eet;^tec!ause they do not exlernmiate by myriads, like Pi.arro, they possess the
'"n;e'^n;i^,S^of 'the Inciuisition, bodi ancient and modern, maintain, on the con-
tra vtlt^.as constantlv excluded knowledge from Spain. d..t it ^^^ V^^^V^-^^
^^ t tion and ianaucism, and kept die mind in that servile ^'^J^^^^'-JJ^"' ^^^i
press those vigorous efforts of genius by which great ^^'"'•'^^ 'i^^^^^^J' ^ "' .;• 2ent a^^^^
lint in Ireezi. g the heart with fear, it prevents die sweet eftusions o confidence a
W^K hii desarovs the most intimate- contiexions which constitute their charms, and
li o u i; (; o A N \ L ' :> I li \ v 1. 1, :; I \ s !• .\ I .\ .
'107
•OM tliC
hillhc
prison,
st'tuds
nor in
Ujry to
•ly cor-
i to t)C
I to se-
ll iqi\i-
rc well
re sub-
so Ibiid
liwy be
J I'U]vii-
i.h niilcl-
li .. i\\o\l
li of his
i punish-
ijtion of
llgCliUO-
LS in the.
)tl oi'cri-
: puuisli-
lignatiou
re tended
In this
cites the
ire of thi'.
lent they
s existed
ancestors
than they
id title of
th( y hii\e
itecm and
JS3CSS the
1 the con-
percd su-
ited to re-
produced;
lence and
irms, and
lor tuf) rntnv ages has sentenced Spain lo i;;nr.ian(v and barbarism. This pi( tnr. is
not in truth an exairgcration in any great digrcc ; but as I have inltrdicted all deeli-
niation on niy part, m spite of tlu- horror uhich I Rel Ibr the Inrpiisition, I uijl main
tan. that it is sensible in Spain of the ivvolution ul.ich has beenclUcted in the manners
of the age mall the countrus ; and if tliis revolution has not altered the primitive constitii-
tion of the holy oHi.e, it has at least tentpered its severitv, and rendered it less visible
and less In 'jiient. Auto de Its are not the same ])ompons solemnities as fornierh , whose
gorgeous (hspli.y, under the pretence of honouring religion, insulted hunianiu :' hereto.
lore the whf.le nation ran to them as to a triumph, and the sovereign and ail his comt
u ere present ; imagining that t!ms tliey performed an act of the most meritorious na-
ture in the eyes of the Deity, and enjoyed tlie torments of the victims uhich were deli-
vercdupat once to the executioner, and the maledictions of the people; the particulars
of these barbarous rejoicings as well were related in boohs written expresslv t<; describe
the [)art taken m them, and the pleasure receiv ed from them by the spectator'
Alter the auto de fe in 1G80, a work was published, giving the most circumstantial rela-
tion of that terrible solemnity. The author seems to have taken as much pleasure as if
he were describing a public festivity. " I am about," he savs, " to relate, with an
interesting exactness, all the circumstances of that triumph so glorious to th<- faith with
a list of thenobihty present, and a summary of the sentences passed upon the crimilials."
1 lie censors afterwards approve, in the most distinguished manner, a work u iiieh
say tliey, 'Mor the majesty of its subject ought not only to be read in Spain, but bv the
whole world." i ' .
The examiner surpasses the censors. " The author," says he, «' has answered the
public expectation at a time tliat curiositv made it the object of everv wish, and die iiious
impatience of all true believes complained of delay.- He is above all eulo(/ium for
• havmg given, with a scrupu'ous attention, all the particulars of this wonderful
In the course of his narrative, the author frequenUv celebrates the pious zeal of the
inonurch, who was himself present at the ceremony.
"This prince," says he, " ha\ing given i^ to be iinderstood that he should be tdad
to be present at the celebration of an auto-general, the council of the Iiu.nisition thought
it wouc be shcAving him a mark of respect to afford him an opportunity to imitate die
admirable example of Ins august father Philip IV." The grand inquisitor went in con-
sequence to kiss his majesty '.i hand, "assuring him that he would take die most speedy
measures for the accomplishment of a work which was so agreeable to him." /
" It was a great consolai ion,'"' says he, " to the zealous, a Subject of confusion to thos«/
of a lukewarm zea , and of astonishn.:nt for all the spectators; to witness a constate/,
worthy of be.ng admired for ages to come. From eight o'clock in the mornimr his
majesty remained m his balcony, without manifesting the least uneasiness from thelieat^
or the prodigious concourse of people, or appearing wearied by so long a ceremony
His zeal and devotion were so suj^^rior to the fatigue, that he did not even iviilidraw <
for a quarter of an hour to tasle refreshment ; and at the end of the ceremowy he asked' '
il there \vere any thing else to be done, and if he might retire." .
riie Spaniards of the present age I'-e far ironi that cool cruelty which shut^ the hearf-'/
against pity ; and are at ibcrty to compassionate the very small number of u.ihappy vie-
tims who si.fler the severity of the holy office. X^ '
They havcMndeed been very rare in the present century, for there has not be^ri 6b?"
general auto de fe snnilar to that of 1680. '
'11
>>
<j
/
/
/
l(>«
,oil<r,. .ANNE'S rnAVEI-S IS- srAiK.
^^- --"T^t±:^:^i:::^^^$^
.mtoro.Vlclivcrcil them o«r to *eJ^"'»,VXnothcr act of severity, which I u'iU no,
;;r!Slei;;,;i;e t:^::^^^^^^'^ «>* »" -"^'^ ^'^"- "-" '^= -
lvM)in- Moovs ^\•c■re Ininit uUvc. ^ -^ ^^.^.^e taken from the
In" lyx), seven persons from amons the '""^^ ^'^p I ^i-.i^^.^, a schoolmaster,
pr'^ni of 'M.chiAo he.r their -"^-^^-'^^l^^^i^ref ^^ wJuK^es who had de-
Ivho had been talsely ^^-^'t^^.^^^ u! "b nished lor eight years and con-
posed a.^.iinst h.m, one ol whom ^^^as h.s ^^ i,,j,i,^,,,. Another culprit
iunrned to reeeive txvo hundred ^;\^^^,^^; , ' 1^^^^^^^ corporally punished, because, as
f^;,:^:.::^i::;z:t:^^ t-;;:^u;i';^4.e„., ..the co„n.catio„ orh.
propertv. ,. •,,rnr»rincp rather than crueltv ; but in 1763,
' -Vluk. divisiovs wore the »l'F»';7;"i^| f ^Xn Ic lure.ies were delivered to
., ,,anieutor auto de fe was celehralc ■'h'^^^ ';'.;;. ^.j ,|,,i, ,,„„ishn.cnt from becom-
the tluines. The obs c.ir.ty ol ''■V^'V f "' '\Xh he name alone of the Inqt.isit.ot.
mg generally pnblic ; .ml the un.versal I , °' '"'^' ,,'^"^. ",, |,Hore, had restrained the
l„°,^red seemed to be '-;; j'"- -':, \' ; oVSwng, against the'cxpress will of his
powers of tins tribunal. 1 he gi.ana "; l"'j" , .^' , » ji^. j ,o a convetit thir-
Ljesty, iu,blished a bull w hteh prose nbd j J^ -^ ta°^^ ]^ ^^^^^ ,,i,„,.,f ,,_, aUedg-
,een leagues from Madrtd. \V h.lst m c ^''^ ''S ' "'"o^ce the exclusive right of prohibit.
,„g the »">-'--l "-S'^,"tt>fr o a ew eS,V'obtained his p^rdotr , but the
l;i^;'';Stav\lg taken tte jU^iee'ofhi: ministers and the council of Casfle, tssuedan
™tX;ttr *: ttnre the gnmd inquisitor should not be allowed to publish edicts,
except when they were se.rt to him '["" 1"» "'''e.'' ' , ,^, „.„e to be prohibited, he
"""^ .t-,;r.ir:'ho.v o^e'SlXbS^tt condctnned a booj. summon the author
tne kui„ s cui. 1 p^in nir over a mixed assem-
ibllowing, the influence o the ^^^^^^^^^^^ '^;;^ over amixed assem-
,ountde Aranda managed so.s t'^;^;,':,^/^\^^^^^^^^^^^^ 'the Sccasion of the expulsion of
bly of magistrates and bishops who '^^^^'^^J'^,;^ X' ^i^i.ter, to circumscribe the power
the Jesuits. This was not the only eftort ""[^^'f'^^?^^ { ^h^ ^i^ht to seize the pro-
of the holy office; he had long -^^f^tt^S^^^^^^^^ °^*^.^
perty of the criminals it condemned : but J^, ^^^ °^f ^\';*;j^^ ^v^Hure of this property, it
Liries of the ofl^^ers of the tribunal ;amU^ J, hundred thouU Uvrer.
NYOuld be necessary to create a fund ot upwarcis vi
'inUIK.OAN' \' 1.
1 11 A V V. l.Z r N ". V A I \
III!'
edicts.
i^2r),()f)()l. ) Thi^ ronsidrniticju MispciuUd tlu' evocation which u.is icaiiy tf i-i juc
iiounctcl.
The count succtcckd better in anotlicr atti nipt, lie iiii,' preside lU of the counol oi
Castile, whicli lias always been the /.ealoiis di Ruder ol'tlie rii;lits oi' soverei,!j;!il\ , and
gaining ()\er, \)\ the ascdulaney oC his eliaraeter an<l talents, sfiine prnvcrhii prelates,
whose secret dislike to a tribunal, enriched l)y episcopal spc/ils, he took every means t<.
increase; he obtained in 177i' a rnyal mandate nhich conlinul the jurisdiction of tht
iiKjuisition tf) the cognijianee of tlie crimes of heresy and aposlaex', and roib;'.d( it to
imprison the sul)jects of his m.iji.sty, imless these crimes werelirU clearly pro\ed.
This went to contract its limits grealh . The \ ict(jry which he thus obtained was
obnoxious in Spain t;) a very small number ol' weak and ianatic people It was highh
celebrated and e.\agt;;erated in foreign countries. The moment was supposed to be a'
hand when the hydra, which philosuphy had long before cijudcnuud, was about to b>.
destrojcd.
The resignation of tlie count de Aramla, whic h happened soon after, did not pre
vent similar measures iron\ being pursued, because disiinguislud and enlightened per
sons were still at the head of administration, who, notwithstanding their i:eal frr reli
gion, had imliibed the same prine;iples. Seenirity was re-establislKd in the minels ol
men without banishing the resjKCt clue to religion anel its minister^. This A\as insured
by the goodness and moderation of the monarch, and the tolerating maxims (;f tlK):^
in whom he principally coniided. 'I'he time of rigour and cruelty seemed to be passed,
and the Holy Office appeared to slumber, when in 1777 it sudeUnly shook olVils su-
pineness at the expence of an 'llustrious victim, anel terror and false iical wiie again
roused through all Spain ; while throughout the rest of I'.nrope the indignation of eve
ry rational friend to the blessings of a wiv.- toleration was again excited.
Don Pablo Olavide, born in Peru, iiad been raised by his distinguished abilities to one
of the first employments in the state, that of inteuelant e)f the four kingdoms of Anda-
lusia and Assistente of Seville, "is sage measures in this important post had excited
admiration and gratitude, when new opportunities presented themsf Ives to signalize hi^
zeal. The king had conceived the prejject of clearing and peiijulaing that part of the
Sierra Morcna which is crossed by the r( ■' from Madriel to Cadiz, a district former
ly inhabited and cultivated, but lately overgro\Mi with ue- )d, and become a retreat for
robbers and wild beasts. M. Olavide was appointe d to carry this plan into eflee t, iuid
acquitted himself of his commission in the most distinguisht ' manner , he however,
could not avoid the ordinary roe k of all great enterprises. He made himself enemies ;
and drew upon him the hatred of Father Roinaulel. a German capuchin, who had
brought into the Sierra iVlorena a patent from the general of iiis order, by which he
was declared prefect of all new missions, and by which he arrogated to himself an unli-
mited authority in every thing which could be made to ha\ the least connexion with
religion. He was opposed by M. Olavide, ^\ho otherwi gave him a good reception,
and received him into his intimacy. The disappointed ambition of the monk became
furious. Some indiscreet expressions from M. Olividc, in an unguarded moment, sup-
plied him with an opportunity to gr.?«ify his revenge. He fomented the discontents of
some of the settlers who were his own countrymen, and made use of them to discredit
the new establishment and its principal conductor. I'he memorials which he presented
to the council of Castile were full of the most serious charges against M. Olavide. The'
council caused them to be examined by an impartial judge, and M. Olavide ^\•as sud-
VOL. V.
xi c.
■^^
AW
BuunroANNE's Tn.vvr.r..! in :;i'.uv.
Ucnly orclcrcil to court in the month of November 1775, there to conlcr concerning dil
fercnt objects rchilive to his mission.
Whilst lie resided trancinillv at Madrid, he discovered by accident the treachcrou>
nonsjiiracy intended lor his deslrnclion. He learned from intercepted letters that
I'ather Homuald iuid planned his ruin, to enrich himself with h""s spoils, and that he
was not without a hope that the court itself would favour his detestable plot.
ISI. Olavide uas furtlu r inlornud by some friends whom he still had in the SierM
Morena, that the precedini; year the vindictive monk had accused him to the mi ^ister
of foreign affairs, of being' wantinjj^ in respect to divine worship and ecclesiastical disci-
pline in the new eolonies, and of having in his possession prohibited books; and also
that he had but a short time bcibre accused him to the holy ofTice.
However alarming this information might be, M. Olavide confided in the rectitude
of his own eonseience. He solicited the ministers to convey to the foot of the throne
the proofs of his innocence. He went to the grand inquisitor protesting the punty of
his faith, and otlered to retract the cxi)ressions nliicli might have escaped him to the
prej'.idice of religion. For more than a year that he had resided at Madrid, his conduct
was of a most exemplary nature ; but nothing could avert the storm which threatened
him.
The 14th of November 1776, a grandee of Spain, in quality of Alguasil Mayor of
the Inciuisition, accompanied by some officers of justice, arrested him in his house, and
conveved him to the prison of the holy oflice.
At the same time his wife, who 'vas at Carolina, where she had remained during the
absence of her husband, saw the officers of the Inquisition arrive and seize all his pro-
pcrtv, books, and papers ; w iiilst another detachment did the same at his house m Se-
ville'. Until tlie day his sentence was pronounced he was lost to his family, who knew
not whether he was dead or alive, and had given over all hopes of ever seeing him tnore.
I arrived in Spain for the first time when tliis event was quite recent, and was witness
to the sensations which these proceedings occasioned in the minds of different men.
The rivals of M. Olavide, the in\idious', and some devotees, constant in their zeal for
the cause of religion, considered it as a triumph. Several of his more rigid countrymen
thought it a just chastisement for the imprudencies attributed to him ; and which might
havc'had other judges elsewhere, but would not have escaped unpunished. Consterna-
tion was however the most general sentiment. Plach began to tremble for himself, fear-
ing lest he should find in his most intimate connexions bo'h spies and accusers. How
were it afterwa-ds possible to enjoy the sweet communicati'ns of confidence and friend-
ship? What n.i.n could be prudent enough and sufficiently sure of himsi.'lf to concert all
his actions, weigh his expressions, and never furnish matter of accusation for a sc-cret
enemy, a corrupted servant, a friend, or cNcn a son led astray by his scruples? The
iioly office is perhaps more just than severe ; but its proceeding is dreadful ! How can
an accused person disculpate himself when he neiUier knows his crime nor accusers?"
And how is it possible to avert the thunderbolt prepared in silence in the shades of its
impenetrable maze ? r a,* rAi • i
Such were the reasonings dictated by terror during the impnsonme t of M. Olavide.
The apparent supineness of the Inquisition had re-established security, but its sudden re-
vival terrified every one. The first impression was besides renderi '! more lasting by
other circumstances. The monks thought the time at hand to regain their lost power.
Sciircelv was M. Olavide arrested before it was known that a mibsion of capuchins at
Seville bad abandoned themselves to an excess of zeal, and loudly exclaimed against
D o i: n r; o a s :; e
1 11 \ \ i: r. :; is ivxis.
41!
dil
prolanc theatres to \\\\k\\ hv had given ciicourafrcmciit in that city. At the simf time
tliL- liujuisitioiis of the proviiincs partook of the triumph of the capital, and made an essay
of their returning power. The In(|uisition of Cadiz renewed a eeri-mony whicli liad heen
neglected there for half a century, and which is annually rcpeatulat Madrid, that of so
Icninly reading all the decries of the holy oHice, the bulls upon whicli its power is <ounrlcd.
and all the anathemas fulminated against heresy and irreligion. It seenu d as if the hoi;,
ofUce wished to make a mockery of the alarm of the public.
In the meantime the prosecution of M. Ol.ivide was carried on with the utmost sc
cresy. Mis fate was at length decided after a rigo^Mis imprisonment of a \ ear and s( vei'
days, during which he had not the consolation of ha\ ing uven one of his servants sulfcred
to approach him.
On the 21st of November 1778, an assembly was held in the hall of the Inquisition, to
which forty persons of dillerent orders wereiinited, among whom were several grandee <
of Spain, general ollicers, priests, and monks.
The criminal appeared clothed in yellow, carrying in his hand a green taper, and
accompanied by two ministers of the holy oilice. .\ll the proceedings were read. The
most interesting part was the circumstantial rl. tion he himself had given in of his whole
life. In this he confessed that in his travels he had frequented the society of free-iliink-
crs, namely, Voltaire and Rousseau; that he had returned to Spain with many prejudi-
ces against the clergy, and persuaded lh?it the privileges and o|)inions of the c'nirch ol'
Rome were repugniint to the prosperity of states ; that since he hud been placed over the
colonics of Sierra Morcna, he had openly, and without rellection, avowed his opinion
concerning the obstacles which retarded their progress, the infallibility of the pope, and
the tribunal of the Inquisition.
Afterward were produced the depositions of seventy-eight witnesses, who accused
him of having frequently spoken the language of free-thinkers, and ridiculed the priests.
To several of the charges madcagainst him he pleaded guilty, and denied others, assert-
ing that in all these cases his words had never expressed his true sentiments ; that his
object had sometimes only been to animate the industry of the settlers confided to his
care, among whom the exterior practices of religion were freciucntly nothing more than
pretexts for idleness ; and that when he declaimed against the ill conse(inenccs of celibacy,
his view had merely been to encourage population, so necessary to the prosperity of his
country.
This defence appeared neither respectful nor satisfactory. It was alledged against
him OS a crime, that he had used every means of eluding the justice of the holy oHice ;
had intercepted letters to engage the witnesses brought againut him to retract ; and these
circumstances were all proved by writings under his own hand.
In short, the tribunal adjudged him attainted and convicted of e\'ery charge made
against him ; and, in consequence pronounced his sentence, which declared him formally
an heretic. He interrupted the reading, by denying diat he deserved so harsh an appel-
lation. This was, during the final and terrible sitting, the last effort oi' his firmness. He
fainted on the bench on which he sat, and as soon as he recovered himself, the reading
of the sentence was continued. It confiscated all his property, declared him incapable
of holding any employment, exiled him to twenty leagues from Madrid, irom every
place of royal residence, from Seville, the theatre of his fallen authority, and from Lima
his country ; it condemned him to be shut up eight years in a monastery, where he was
to peruse such works of piety as should be put into his hands, and go to confession once
a month. He afterwards made his solemn abjuration, and, with all the ceremony pre-
vspribed by the canons, was absolved from the censures he had incurred.
3 G 2
412
anlT.'-. O.S N'NC''; rUAVEI.5 IN SPAIN.
Tl.osc ^^llo ^^rn^ present, it ^^\\\ readily Ik- conceived all orthodox, derh.rcd that h,
sh(UidtlK most uneriuivoeal marks ol r(,si|.nati(>n and repentanee, and that it nas nn
possible ton ^ll^e hitn their compassion. i .1 » r .. ., ♦!, .
li 1ms hein asserted that tlu- personal eiemenry of the monareh, and that of i\en the
.n-and inqnisin.r miti^^»ted th.' rij^our of his sentence; that some ol his jm -es u;ere ol
opinion he onj^htto sulUr deatli, and s. ver,.l a pu!)hc pnn.shment ; one o these riKonr-
ol.s sentuieo was supports dl.v the kin-'s conic sM.r, uhov lanatieal /.eal lor the cause
oKlod, made him believe the scandal eonld not I.e n paired but by a p.,bhc example.
It v.-'s however ilillieidt to learn the rest olthesccrei particulars ol tlnsallair. Curi-
ositN and ini;; •.'•re uon were restrained by Tar. A conjecture, a question, m.;.;ht be nus-
i.uenm ted and embitter the life of the author. People were m a situati<m somethm.t?
like th.t described l)V 'I'acitus, in the lile of A.-ricola : Adempto per inquisitiones e
locpiendi audiendi<iue commercio;* or that of a more modern and still more dreadlul
^'"iMniist lion ever be observed in favour of the Spanish jrovermncnt, that this crisis did
not continue loiv^ The mind became more easy by rellectiufr „j„)n the known benig-
iiity of the disposition of Charles III, and the enli.u;htened character of his minister, who
Avas adverse to lunatieism. t,.!^,,*^
iMen the situation of the victim contributed to dissipate public terror. His talents
und i-..od fortune had excited die notice of envy before he had incurred that ot the holy
onice ; and citizens, someN\ hat ralmed, trusted to their obscurity for slueldiUK them Irom
the rigour of this tribunal. The result shewed that it was but transitory, and that the
l,rivyc()uncils()fthekin|- were governed by milder maxims. , • • „r
M Olavide was scareelv confined in a convent ol La Maneha, belorc, complaining' ol
die ill state of his liealth, he obtained permission to go and drink the mineral \\-aters m
ihe neighlKHirhood ; and afteruards the liberty to go to others in Catalonia, which he
hoped would prove more tflicacious. There near the frontiers he easdy deceived the
viuilance of his keepers, and bidding adieu to his country, which still was dear to him,
. scaped to l-rance, where he ^\ as preceded by his reputation, and received as a martyr to
intolerance Some months after his flight the court of Spain reclaimeel him, but that ol
IVance replied in a frieiidlv manner, that the olVeiices of M. Olaviele, however heinous
ihev might appear in Spaii'i, did not come within the description of those, the authors ol
u liieh ('ivili^^e d states had reciprocally agreed to give up ; anel the court ol Madrid m-
misled no farther. , • , 1 1 1 v ^ 1 ,1 „^
'J'en \e'irs after his evasion, the rrcnch revoUition which he had predicted, and, no
doulK, desired, taking place, to\vaids the end of his career, presented him with a specta-
rle of V nm el description. He heard the rumbling of the thunder about hnn and had.
It a tiu;e, some apprehension from the storm. He uiulerwent the dreadful horrors of
dispense- in the memorable reign of terror, and learn.d what fifteen years before; had never
entered his mind, that there was under heaven somewhat even more terrible than tlic
Iiuiuisition. Since then he has retired to a country-seat near the Loier. lii this spot
his busx brain has attained a calm, xviihout his heart being dulled. A religion, belter
understoexl than that of which he was about to die the victim, oftershim its consolation,
literature its resources, and solitude its sweets; so that by a strange concatenation of cir-
cun.stances, the liuiuisition for once, doubtless the first time, has made one wise and
happy man.|'
* Snics nut iiii e'lul to the use of the fucuhy of hcanng and speech. , • , , ,
MVhcii 1 NM-otc this in 17^)7, M. Oluvhle liule thought of tev.siti.ip,- tlr.it cotmtfy which had pro-
:;cabcd iuid puni.hed him, und iVom ^ludi he had escaped us afu-uive: but age, misiortune, and at-
11 (» I
I ' N N l.'j I K.Wl'.I.a IN CI \ t.\.
ll.>
,clid
Since this event ihc Iiu.uisiiiw., lias, in one casr, ju.tilial tlu apprehensions U ixcitcd.
-nSon, or, whi.I, i. the s.nn. ilnuK, hununity, shudcUtvcl ;il the torments u.lheted
noon a poor wonu.n, >vh«, having hcen .-onvicted of sorecrw.ul u.tehrralt uas!)urned
at Scvile in ITHO, in eonsaini nee olthe senUiuv ol that tn hniul.
Kveept in these n.sianees, its anthuriiy has I)e.n excc.v d on j on some mdrndnalh,
who, havinn- i.sul irrJiKions expressions, haNc Uxn pardoned upr,.. retraction, alter
"'tt^';;f Madlld hi'lXwhen a eirenu.sumc:e happened nhich proves that dns tri-
bunal.'notxviihstandini; the lynor its loinis haNe ts.v inspired, is sometimes less severe
dunmanv sKular eonrts of jnstii-e. ,11 1 11;
A I euLr, who generallj iook his sta.ul at th. door of a ehnreh, had employed lus
leisure 'm inventing a.ul selling a speei.s .)[• l.owdcr lo uineh h. attn >.ted nnraeulous
cBects It was composed of inHrediniis, the mention ol which would make the r.adcr
blush The heKj'ar had drawn up some sins-ular formul iries to he- rt pc at.d at tiie time
o taking the powder; and recp.ir ul, to .;ae it its clFect that those ulio too it should
nut themselves into certain postures nv.re easily imaginal than d.seril)ed. His eompo-
sition was one of those amorous phiUries, in which our iKUorant ancestors had so much
taith; his, he pretended, had the power (jf restorin{radisi,nisicd lover, and ol soltemup;
the heart of a cruel fair one. .
Whatever flatters our passions has some claim to our credulity. 1 he impostor want-
ednot for customers in that class over which the marvellous has so much empiiv ; and
a few accid'-ntal successes ^ave reputation to his nostrum. He associated liimse I with,
some women who distributed it. !lis powders, however, as it will easily be believed,
were often employed widunil elVect. Most of tiie persons whom he deceived, ess irri-
tated than asiiamed. kept profound silence ; but, at lenfrth, others made coinijla.nts which
were soon carried to the holy ollice. The be},^i.-ar ^vas arrested, and led with lus accom-
nlices to the Iiuiuisition, where t liey were prosecuted in lorin.
The imoudent empiric avowee! every thin;,' j he explained the composition ol his pow -
der and gave up his receipt and fovmularies. The result was one ot the most singular
pro'ceedings which ever came befor: a tribunal. The da)- ol vengeance arrived. 1 he
iudees, criminals, and a crowd of spectators of both sexes assembled in the church ol the
Dominican nuns at Madrid. Divine service was begun but afterwards interrupted to
read the strange proceedings. The temple of the Most High was not sui)posed to be
nrofaned bv a recital of the ol^scenities contained in the summary. Such were the laws
of the holv'office, nor were diese dispensed with in the least in lavour ol some women of
fiuilitv who hid their confusion behind their fans. Even the nuns, less attached to their
scruu es than to the privileges of their church, lost no part of the ceremony, and their
modest ears were insulted with the shameful relation. The sentence was pronounced,
and executed after mass was over.
Untioi. 10 the coiuluct of others, hroui;hl him back a convert to that Rli;/um he was charged with con-
t . u K. Not only <li(l he iV.nkly prolVs. du-isiianiiy, he employed his hasure in coniposnt^ an ap«-
o! 'i h.nK work which he pul.lished. un.l whie!> '.ein-^ known m Spaui,ea«sed tlie s.nccnty ol his
c Hv "rsiou ti be no louj^er disputed. lie nt(=t with a.lvocaics about the throne, and wha was more
diflkult, even in the lonnicU.blc tribunal, the author of his persecutions; wh.cli ior once recalled to
2d tl atthe Divine Legislator, whose vengeance they state themselves called >n>on toeKe-,:ute, clesi-
reth not the death of the .inner, hut rather that he turn from his wickedness and live. M. Olavid
htai el permission to return to Sp.in, and arrived in Madr d m ITOS. Amh.tion has now lost a
n ie oler his soul, as well as all resentment ; he shortly after withdrew to Andalusia, to the house
of a fenude relation, the object of his earliest alVection, perhaps the only or.e who survived his lonj:
banishment.
4U
«otru(;oANNfc\i ritAVLi.s in stain.
The bfj;^:\i Wis declared attainted and conviitcd of malpraclifc, prolanation, and
impostiirf , ;ind condemned tn ptrpetunl impriscjnment, iifierluivincjfbeen whipped in the
principal (|iuirit'rb of the city. Two women, Uia accomplices, were treated w ilh more
indulgence.
The three criminals soon left the chvirch; they were mounted upon asses, and eacli
cloUi».d in a samhenito, covered with painted devils and other symbolical fif!;iircs. They
wore on their heads the fatal pyramidal bonnet called coroza. I'he man was naked down
to his waist, and exposed to the eyes of the public a plumpness u hich could be attrilmted
to nodiinj^ but the lucrative and extensive s.ile of his powders.
Tile protcssion was headed by the marcpiisof Cogolhido, the eldest son of the duke
of Medi:ia C\li, who, in cpiality of Al<ruasil \Li\or, presided at the ceremony. He was
folluutcl by several ^rindees of Spain, a^JSO(;iates of the holy oilioe, anrl other officers of
the tril)una!. The windows were filled, and the streets throufijed with curious specta
tors. The triumphant entry of a Ikio, returning to his country after havin,!^ saved it,
could iHjt have bien more pompous than the ceremony of which a vile criminal was thr
object ; and litis sptetade by which curiosity was so much excited, unlike to otliers (jf the
sanii kind, ollered nothiufj; which mifrht wound sensibility. Never was a sentence so
well dibcrvid executed with greater mildness. The criminal stopped Ihin iin\e to time,
and scarcely did the executioner touch his siioulderb with the whip, wlu-ii .omc charitable
hand presented him with a j^'iass of Spanish wine to ei\able him to linish his career. It
wtre to be wishetl that the holy ollice had never exercised f^reater se''. riiv.
In fact, this tril)nnal (I averred it in 1789, and rei)eat it in IfJO;')) is i;».r ironi beinj^ so
dreadful as in other countries it is generally Ix'lieved ; I shall not l)econic iis.i[)ologist by
Stalin}; that ourlettresde cachet were formerly ecpially revoliinj;; neither shall I excuse
it, by siatiiifi^, that in the eye of philosopiiy in that nation which passed lor the most en-
lightened and humane, for eighteen months together we have witnessed the most shock-
ing representation of judicial iiii(|uity that ever stained the page of history. It is not by
siting sui)erior atrocities that tlie smaller can be mitigated, I shall therefore own that the
forms of the Iixpiisition are tirrifying, evin to thos" who are persuaded of its equity.
Prosecutions are carried on with the greatest sccrec} ; the advocate granted to criminals
to make their defence cannot speak to or see them but in the presence of the inquisitors.
But die most odious proceeding of all is, that when the depositions received against any
person accused are communicated to him, the names of the accusers arc carefully con-
cealed. If the holy oHice were to prosecute criminals publicly, and name and confront
their accusers; were it to allow tliem every means of proving their innocence, would its
laws be less observed, or would the sucred interests committed to its care be less attend-
ed to '? Let it not be said, that most informers would be restrained by a flilse shame by
the fear of exposing themselves to the indignation of the public and the resentment of
the accused. No, surely the holy office dare not avow an apprehension lest its victims
should be fewer ! Is that God which it worships so thirsty of human blood, so covetous
of guiity persons and victims ? If this were his religion, never was a more dreadful
present to mortality.
I am willing to allow to those who consider this as the only true religion, that its pure
doctrine, and a respect for the worship of its followers, are conducive to public happi-
ness and tranquility ; and that such as presume to make violent attacks upon either are
deserving of being restrained, and even punished. But gratitude towards benefactors,
fidelity of servants to dieir masters, charitable indulgence towards our fellow-creatures;
is the exercise of these virtues, inquisitors, less acceptable in the sight of Omnipotence
llOL'i(f;OANNI S IHAVKIi IN :i I' A I N .
n.'i
than ortliodoxy? and would \\\v cause of tin- Ahni«j;hty sufiir from niolivcs ijouxrful
US llicsc preventing acciisiitions ?
Dcsidcsi how do oUk r tribunals find nnaiis of dtteciiii},' the puihy ? Tlu puljlic hody
whose duty it is to prosieiite olliiices, is it iiisiillii ii nt to diseovi-r those whose a|)prehen-
sion is nceessar} for tliesake of sfx'ieiy or reli|;ion , and Ls it cununon forcrinKb aj^ainst
»;itherof these to escape thi sword of justice ?
And as for such as niiglit escape wiiliont the concealment of the witness whose indi^'
nation they may have incurred, dots not ihe publishiu)^ of tlieir transactions or lan^uaf^v
occasion more real iiijury to relij^ion than w hat their l)eiii):^ left unpiUAished covdd possibh
do? And when the (iod you worship (I was about to say that you to traduce) cursed
•* the man who first invented scuiidul," diil he not inti nd to include the publisher ol
scandal?
Thus in case of my having to appear before thi' Holy Ollicc, thus should I address
myself to it. But 1 would acknowledge at the same tin\e, with no expectation ol dis
arming it, but merely with a view of doing homage to trnili, that the Lujuisition, if its
forms were overlooked, and the object of its institution, might be citetl as a modt I ol
equity. Let it not be said that the malice of a secret enemy is suflieieiit to call dowi\
its vengeance; itcondenms no one upon the testimony of one accuser, nor without dis-
cussing the proofs of the charges. Serious and repeated crimes are necessary to incur
its censures; which, with a little circumspection in words and conduct relative to religion,
may be avoided, and men live as little molested in Spain, as in any other country in
Europe.
] will say more, durhig my last stay in Spain, which was for the space of more than a
year ; I do not remember to have once heard the name of the holy oflice, nor was 1
able to obtain one other single anecdote to add to the horror to which 1 had devoted it,
notwithstanding the apologetical manner w ith w hich 1 was reproached with having spoken
of it. Not that at the time I speak of (1792 and 1793) it had become less rigid ; but
more immediate objects, more imminent dangers, the consequence of the progress of
our revolutionary principles, called lor and seemed to absorb all the faculties of the Spa-
nish government. Persecution was less extended towards the atheistical French, than the
French imbued with maxims formidable to despotism, atid too much inclined to the
propag-ation of them. The Alcaldes, die Corregidors, the commandants of towns, the
governors of provinces, all had become political inquisitors more vigilant and far more
formidaijle than the reverend fathers ; so that the latter relying upon the active zeal of
their substitutes seem to hold vacation for a period of time.
It was consequently in my first journey into Spain that I acquired the greater p.ut of
the materials from which I have attempted a draught of the Inquisition.
I must add to what I have before observed, that, of all strangers, the French have been
constantly the principal objects of its restless vigilance.
The troublesome zeal of many of its commissaries in the pro\inees, occasions them
to be persecuted ior the slii.;htest matter, fre<juently disturbing the quiet of the inhabi-
tants, by domiciliary visits for the purpose of seizing licentious prints, or prohibited
books ; oftentimes it is true this excess ol zeal is condemned by the court, or the grand
inquisitor, w hich office, during the last and the present reign, has been uniformly occu-
pied by prelates of sense and moderation. I have seen some specimens thereof, one of
the most striking of which is the lollowing.
Aliout fifteen years ago, some French merchants at Cadiz, having received a con-
signmcnt of leather from one of our manufactories, were much alarmed at seeing the
officers oi the Inquisition enter their houses. They desired to see the leather newly ar-
4ll>
not. A(.0.\NNr. ;• IllAVEt." IN SI'AIN.
rividaiKl luuiiift ol)scrvtcl tlnu it bore iIk" iin:i^c ol' ihc holy virj^in, uliicli was llu- m;irk
(,;■ the iniimilacturc, iNchiiimd ;i}^aiiist llu: proraiialioM ; n inarkiii^; that tlif k.ithii
Ik'ui(j; iiiliiuUd ti» mak*. shots, the imafjc ol tin' inothir ol Chri>>i ran tlie ha/.urd <)\
luiii^^ troclcku utukr foot, and c()nsr<|miuly it \va» oonliscattd. Thfallair ua.i rdlrrtd
fotlic siiprmit trihural ;il Madii'.l. TIk' (.har;;v was nuuk' out and was lor sonic tini'-
in tm possession, lor thr nurchants, \u\\< h alariuid, had rti'oiirsc to the court l*y nKan-
llu ir ainhassaiU/i'. '1"!k' court ami (he liiluuial nccixcd the complaint in thi' nianiut
<>
it nuritid. 'I'hc ollicirs oj the liujuisition were enjoined not to molest stranjjfer''
umli r such liillinp; preti xls, and tlu nunhauts recovered their leather v\ith(jut I'urtliei
tiiiul.Ie.
On othu' (A'casious, still more recent, the minister and the };rand incjuisitor himseli,
ha\e proitcted the inhabitants a;j;ain'il the ca\ ils (jf the snijalterns ol' the holy ollice.
At IViieilona tliiy attimpted to |,^i\edistuibanees toa l'r(i\eh Ikjusc, be( aiise itsmenibu »
were I'lotestants ; andwlun it \\asob>erM(l to tliiin that the l''.n).,dish and othi r noillu.r:i
nations uere tolerated in Spain, nol\' iihstanding- tluy were heretics, they answered, I ha*,
the Catlinlic religion was the on';, one in 1' ranee. The cause, ho\\e\er, ol' this perjic-
lutul house was no sooner biV)ui;ht bel'orc the court than it was f,Mined.
In line, though it nnist be admittid that bif^otr) is mori j)re\alent in the province^
than in the capital, no i^ieat inconveniences can ever arise I'rom it ; because the sentence^
«.r ihi ]'ro\ineial tribui\als ha\ e no roice until the) have obtained the sanction of '-tof
Madrid, which on that account, bears the name ol Sujirema. Iksides, the court .cm-
tinixi-s more strictly than ever the proceeding's ol' the holy oflicc, and certainly not with
;in intention ol' iiureasinp,- its severity. It ^\as enacted, in 1781, than whei\ the oflicc
should ha\e linished the jiroseeution of any j^-randtc of Spain, any of his majesty's mi-
nisters, any ollicirsin the army, member of a tribunal, or any person in place, the
whole procecdiiif^s should belaidbelbre the kint^ to be revised and examined. \\\ this
law the principal persons in the kini^dom have obtaii\ed an additional security against iIk*
arbitrary rigours ol' the holy ollice. It is to be regretted, that it was calculated to tic-
lend those who cannot want protection rather than those whose obscurity rre(|uently ren-
ders their complaints inell'ectual, and who couse(juently are exposed to be unjustly tn ated
with more impunity, lint where they have no part in framing the laws tlic people are
almost every where eitlur forgotten or oppressed.
The holy olliee to this day receives a certain tax from each vessel that arrives in any
of the ports of Spain, in consniuence of the examination it is authorised to make in
order It) see that the vessel contains nothing that may be oflensive to religion. The
starch has for a long time been neglecttd, but the duty is still paid to the oHice. Were
this the only complaint against the Intiuisition, wc should easily be reconciled to it.
In 1781) I concluded this long ariicK on the Intjuisition with a hearty desire that the
sovereigns of Spain might eonsiiU r tht nisei ves suiliciently sure of the submission of their
subjects, of the watehluliiess of their temporal courts, and of the enlightened zeal of
its prelates, to make tliis tribunal wholly minecessary. 1 am honevcr aj)prehensive that
after what has hapjjened latterly in Eun>[)e, the object of my desire is wider of its com-
pletion than ever. I lear that so\ereigns, however wise they may be, from a jealousy
of a diminution <jf dieir authority, will Ibster more than ever such supports to their
empire (shaken by the violent convulsions which have happened) as may yet remain ;
and that they will gain an additional argument in favour of institutions "•hich tend to
prevent the disorders of irreligion from the excesses of the loose philosophy which in
France has exceeded all bounds. There appear more than one ground for this opinion.
Since the establishment of peace between Spain and France, priests have again acquired
IIOI'IU.O VNNK'f. IHNVELS IN SPAIV
ilT
their pristinr iisrfiulcncv, the profrssorships r,r piililir ri(j;ht liavf l)<'«n :il)<)li',lu<l, ami
the works of Macatnv 'on tin. Iii'iuisition lu*< bcru rcprintnl. Win tlur to prcvrvr
quilt it Jk- advanta^unis t.. inir/zU- :u. I liuoduiiik a ^n•ncrous nation, whiilur it tv
a safer way to conduct it tlirou^'h the paths f.rdarkniss than In afFordin;; thr n ,-• n| tl^
iiirht of reason ; whether in short, to use- ihr lanj^uaj^c ol (kspotisni. .. ttiod.-ratc .40.
VfrnuKntlK- not the niost pnipcr one lor proU ctiui; the ^^r)\t;rn.(l Irotn tlu opIoMon
oi lihcrtv, time must discover. .
BeforJ I <|uitthe subject I shall take notice of a political body, winch manv str-in^er
confound with the IiKpiisition, but which has no other nlatiouuilh it than ♦heir com
mon epithet. ., . , 1 •
This is the santu hermandad, much spoken of in Spanish iioveK , it is no ni-.n
than a confraternlu , disperscfl r.ver dilliieut parts of the khi^'dom -.f Castile, whose
object is to watch' o\cr the safel\ of the country by apprehending' those who di.turl.
the public peace. It is subordinate to the council of Castile, from which it receive^
its rejrulations. One of the strictest is that which prevents its jurisdiction from e\
tendinis to cities. The principal detachments iionx it are Toledo, Ciudad Hodngo.
and Talavcra. ... ...
Let us resume what remains to be said respecting' the interior administration o.
Spain. We bewail with the council of Castile which lend us to the adnunistratior
of justice, to le^'islation. and linally to die tribunal of the hf)ly olUcc. In the sue
cced■.l^' volume we shall take a view of the other dilUrent councils of the monarcln
VOLUMK TIIK SKCdNl)
CHAl'TKR I.
rOVNCll. OK riNANCl; in iU-AIV. I \\L^
WE are now about to enter the ^ ast career of finance, revenui , imposts, debts
of the state, public debt, he. tiresome career, which ire(|uently exhausts the patience
of the minister who has to levy the tuxes, and more freciuently that of the persons
who have to pay them; a barren subject, which possibly may \veary many ot my
readers, on which account I shall be as short as exactitude ^vill allow.
The finance department in Spain is under the direction of a sovereign permanent
council, called El consejo dc Hacienda.
This Real Hacienda, the name of which inspires a sort of terror, does not badly
resemble the cave of the lion described by La Fontaine :
— . Towards iliis cum-
I trace full many a Ibolstcp i,'o, but none
Of l)cust returning.
The supreme guardian of the Ileal Hacienda, the council of finance, is, as well a.v
that of Castile divided into several chambers, or Salas, la sala de govierno, sala dc
justicia, sala de millones, and la sala de la unica contribucion.
Their names sufficiently indicate their functions.
The contaduria mayor is a sort of chamber of accounts whose decisions arc sanction-
ed by la sala de justicia. . n- 1 1
It must not be confounded wiUi la contaduria dc valores, a particular office whose bu-
siness it is to keep an account of the rental of the kingdom, of grants, and privilege':.
VOL. V. 3 "
ilH
linrniiOANNK 3 rilAVEI.S IN STAIN.
NotMnp; ("an lu' more i()tni»lnaU(l than the ri)rrn«» uliicli arc to l)i' j^oiw tlirou^^h in
jmssin}; llu' jlitFcrint (dlicis Ik Ion- you aitain ilu royal trrainry ; forin'* uhirh out tluir
origin an much to n salutary mistrust as to clutani ry. Wik to crnlit<»r, woe to the
solit itor who has t«) tiacr the wiiidinf^s fiC this lahyriiith.
Tlu- royal treasure; is kept hy tuo giiural tnasunrs, who jrc altiruatcly in ofticc for
.1 yiar, and pass tlit )car ihiy arc out of odicc in rUarinj^ tluir a<:couni.H.
Thrtc f^iiaral dirtdois nciivc tlu' ro\al nnti, and have under tluni tlu' {ollcctnn,
:tnd conuuissioncrs ol'duiirs, and their numerous fiscal ai^tuts, a U');ion rorn)i(lal)k- for
its innnlKT and its tali nts. Tlu re arc none in lluir way in I'.uropc superior to tlusc
pcopU ; il'lhcy wire as incorrnptihic as they arc vigilant they nii^ht be taken lor models.
I had occasion on my first journey to Spain t') appreciate the value of this class «)l Spa-
niards ; "lul on m\ return in 1702 1 perceived to n^y cost aiul that ol a numher of
appellants cf whom I was tlu or^an, that it had yet madi improve nunt towards fiscal
1)crkctioii. KveiUs, auj-mentiiifj; the animosity of the uiulerlin|^s of olVicc towards the
'rench, tindcd to sharpen their inti rnu (Idling ^iniiis, which at times was at its nc phis
ultra. WlKiicMr desirous of comfoitinjf myself lorha\inj^ no lonj^er any relation with
Spain, I liavi hut to ncollcct its adminisir.itorH of the customs, its judges of smug-
gled goods, and inspect iis whole trihc of tax-gatherers.
I^et us examine how much arrivesat this treasury, so wi II defended against hesicgcrs.
so fre(|ucnily pillaged by its defenders; how much these revenues so harshly collected
amount to. L'p to 1714 all the revenues, as well of the interior as of the customs, were
farmed. /\t that epoch governnunt took the collection into its own h.inds. 'IVvc) years
afleruaids the laMs of the interior were farmed and continued so until 17 12. The peo-
ple suflireel, as is tlu- case where' the taxes are farmeil in every country. Hepresenta-
tions Wire made to IMiilip V, which stat( d all the irregularities in flu collection. The
representation of K.*-! may be I'onnd in the Mconomii politica de Z ibala ; and in the
institute of Don Martin de I^oMia;:, that <jf 1717. It is only necessary to read these to
be coininccd, that wherever there are men there will be abuses, and to learn the lesson
• >1" being oursehcs less afli cticl at ihosc to which wc arc witnesses or \ic(ims.
Canipillo, however, who had passed through all the (jllices of adminisiralion, and
who possessed firmness and extensive knowledge, had frc(|uently askeel the Spanish
larmers-general what they gained by their farms; according to their own accounts, they
were constantly loosers. Campillo, determining to learn the truth, sudde nly put six. of
the twenty-two provinces, of which Castile is composcel, into commission. In 1747
the marcjuis de la Knseiiada extendi d this measure to the rcmaincKr, and since that
lime nearly all the colltciinn of Spain has bctn man.iged by conunissioners.
Two years afterwards Ferdinand VI, aeloptcd a project which had often been agitated
m Spain, that of converting into one c(jntribution those which form what :'.re calleel pro-
vincial rents. In 17'lf>, a commission was established for this purpose, under the name
of Sahulc la Unica Contribucion. It employs thirty thousand persons, and iib annual
cxpcncc is upwards of three millions of livrcs (125,0001.)
Until the operations of this chamber shall have answered the purpose for which so
much care and money have lictn applied, the defective form of the cluuuber of fmancc
will remain ; the people sufter by it, and good citizens loudly complain ; but the ciovc-
reigns of the present family have not yet been able to find a remedy.
'J'he finances of Spain arc divided into two classes, which compose almost .ill there-
venues of the king : General Rents and Provincial Hents.
The first arise Irom duties paid at the frontiers upon merchandise entering or going
out of the kingdom. The duties urc diilerent with respect to their name and propor-
• OL'R'.OAN Nk d IUAVit.1.^ iM ^il'Al.N
uy
lion ill <li(U;rcnl provinciH. ]•; ttiov uluft itu- ^^c)ors loiifj^ist ri'-ldtd, tftiy Invr pro-
HcTvcd tlu' Arabian natni' .\hn'>jarii'a-/f^(i, first ^iwn ton (iistoniliDiiii tint) thai liaslhcii
siicccMsivilv incrcajicd, mid upon uhicli tlic SpaniartU liivi- spiinl.tud more or liss ad
vanta^ioiiNlv with coinnv rciai n;itions. It in still known by tli«' vnni* ninu' in the Ca*
t\.)r\ Islaiuls, wIktc it prodncc* tlic kin^'six pt r cent, upon all iiurchindiv.
In iiHist ol thf otJK r pioviiHusiilias Ia* ii iiuriasicl b) di j;ti,\>»t<» (ilucn ptrctfit. upon
every articli- ol' importation or i Nportation. In Catalonia, they aru not u<> mwM a") foni
pcrcfiit. ad valori.'m.
Notwithstanding' its pri\il(|(is in Navarn, a (hit) ii paid (tf li\t' pi r cent. np<;n cvt.r\
Conunodit\ i ntcrin^; its tNtirlur iVoiitiir, and ihric and .1 liallon ixportation.
Iltncc It alrtad) appears, that ilu' linaiicis ol' lraiu\ were not the o.ily oiks uhich
Wen; coinplicattd, dilK re nt in dill" iiiil pi ins, Cull of 1 sci ptioiis, and i xposed to thi' 1 j
price ot colli ctors. \\ hat 1 have mentioned is but ^i sli;;ht skUeli ol' the i 'jinpli'.ati'di nl
those of Spain.
Beside!* tliese general laws which extend to tlu jireatest p.irC ol' im rt;h:iiidi-.e, ilicr'.'
;<rc several artieks, .smh as coeoa, chocolate, bujjar ami pap-.r, which pa\ pai licnl.n
duties.
The whole produce of the gem ral rents wlien tl>;y were larined did not amount to
bix millioi)-. and a nairo;'\lM'es. \ leu years alter ih( ) were put uilo commission they
|)rodiU'e<l ten r.nllions, and have since rapidiv ineieaseti.
In 1783, at the close of the Amiriean war, thev ) roiluci.cl a total of ninety. six mil
lions of rials ; 1784, one hundred and twenty ; 178.'), one hundred and twenty-eight and
upwards.
There arc sonic other duties whieb may be iiicuided in the general rents, although
difierently collected, and tlv ir produce enter not the same chest; such arc
'I'he duties of the otlice of health, livst established at C.idi/., and since extended to the
othir sea ports of the kingdom.
The duties of the giaml admir.il, which were appropriated to the treasury by Ferdinand
V, in 1748.
Two other duties, one under the nnme of Lan>^as, the other of Midias Annatas,
which wc have spoke of under the head of titles, and whieli collectively in i 787 produced
5,400,000 rials.
The rent of wools, which is the duty paid according to Uieir ([uality on exportation.
It was farmed at Icis than 12 millions of rials. In 1777 it produced more than 20 and
ill 1789 nearly 28 millions.
The produce from the sale of salt, which is in cstanco, that is, exclusively sold for the
king's account, throughout all h'r European dominions. This tax was I'tjra long time
very unproductive. In 1785 it scarcely yielded IG millions of rials, but then the mea-
sure of from 6()lb. to 8011). weight was sold for a rial (that is, 2]d. sterling) ; but the price
of the measure being raised, it ptoduced in 1789 about 56,000,000 rials. It has been
further productive, from the war iiaving caused the price Ui )jc augmented. For, in
Spain, to the injury of die country and to the misfortune of its inhabitants, objects ot the
first necessity are those on which tiJj taxes and augmentations are imposed.
In other respects, the price of salt is uniform through Spain, with un exception of some
drawback aftbrded in die jiorts for such as is used for the fisheries. The salt-[)its of
Andalusia, and <hc dry salt-pits collectively, are insufficient for the consumption of the
V.ingdom ; ^'•reat nuantities are therefore broughl from Portugal. Seizures and execu-
tions are rare hi Spain with respect to salt; the avidity ol the treasury being less rigorou-^
with respect to this article than others.
3 H 2
. ,Q DODK^OAN M.'.i lltA.L;... IN UIAIN
■i • ol :i .ontnu:!, tic l.vc rul ;>t 2 rials per lb. a..d u luch the k.nj^; rc-soUl at 10 . uls . _
Kl to r o mihcriM. I. or snuiV, kn-mn c.cry uhuv by the nan,.: j-t Ilavannaor S ,au
s V ■ nd ru«l- (cnK. Iron. ( uba. Th. kin^^ i^ays ratl.cr a h.Klar j.ncc lor tins ilu.-.
V il b • • In 17H:> ituas sold at the sam. p.icc of 10 nal. per pound; trou.
i; ; ;■ I ' p ulu c o tlu saU: th. salaries ol" tlu. persons enM>loycd were to be de:^
lIuctTaildthc 'Kl-K-es olUtc manufactories, the prn.eipal ol wh.eh .s u. bcv.lle ; a!.
ulnch rhar^s inenased the eost to die k nipper lb. to 8 rials.
.•;,„;:.• tinuthe <n,vernnunl pn-hibited the use ol all other kuK s ot snuff, called
. ,. , e t di "uisirit irom the leal Spanish snutV, uhieh .s powdered, exceedn.^dv
iilirancl "Ilnmd with a kind of ochre called ahua.aron, winch ^.ves U its tinge and
""inlu "ol or rather on account of t!>e rii^orous laws, and the vigihmcc of the persons
.-,1. wim ... this occasion take iM>on themselves to behave ,n the most ms..lent
nv r^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ stran-ers, particularlv mu h asarKnr by sea; Span> was numdated wuh
"; ^d ; KH^ .md the only persons who Kaiued by the prolnbu.on -- U-- -Ijo
Mi? underhandedlv, chari;•in^ e^cn as high lor il as a gumea per pound, m orde to
; tl the sk u in thu; ^i;tistviMg the decided taste ol men lor uhat .s orb.doen
Th-is t It -u. participated bv all e'l.sses of Spaniards, by those cspec.a ly who should
1 ' n e omm n 1 d abltinence bv their own exan.plc The members oi the diplomacy
i ,K u c ex ' npt iron, the regulation, and even they rec,uired ;.n express l-rnuss.on
1 ih m n..;e uf linance, for allouing the entry (.f the ciuantny ol rappee requ sUe for
k" c . Pti-n. The two prede<:essnrs of the reigning sovere.gu had a se tied e>l^ec^
nt he of this tobacco, uhu h had somev. hat ot mania m .t ; and should anv about
dKm have pn.tnued to take tt, it uould have been exccedn.glv d.ihcult lor them t-.
'''\riu!oSrthe Spanish :n.^e^nMKnt was convinced, that the only mode of curbing
^^'^M:^nZ^uu^^u,Z uas to cause rappee snulftobe mantdactured. and vend il
oii^n -nun No nation had ntore adlantages ibr this kind ol speculation th;m
he hers oss .s( d : the etdtivation of tob;,cco has succeeded m d.e greater par o her
aUc^t^ in Mexico, on the coast ol Caraccas. at the isk^ of Trnndad, and p;trt.cmarly m
uis.an \s for Mexico, in ^vhieh cotn.try the etdturc ol tobacco was not_ begt.n
bli . 7<V-, the king in 177.S dr. w Iron, it lorn- millions (.f hard p.astres, aiKl six mil-
0 : n ».; (iah^.. tlK. nunister tor India, intended du tol.aceo o Lott.s.ana which
irclu ape." and better, should furnish the consumption of Mes.eo, and by degrees the test
'' Thctl!;^ u'incco is one of the most considerable branches of the royal revenue.
In 177n amounted to more than 87 millions of rials. In 1777 to 8. and upwards,
in 1784 lo about 7.3. The introduction of rappee sntitf rapidly increased this receipt.
Mu ut^ i • rvc luMuw l.ou- much V.nVuv.ud \'i. in other rf.pe.cts hunuuu- and Ro ,.1 .,111.,
ias o kcd mm > ever. UA.avds those ul>o iidVi.u^ed the l.us relative to proscnhcd toh.^co Ok
J.;^ n i p,'^ ■ , u .cnauK-. oi' Spain d.cw a suutV-hox Hon, his pu.kct Ivul ul rappee 1^ - «
):v; cmburrussnar.t, uiiU dispersed the an^er ot Uxc km-.
Unu-Uf.OANM.'- IHAVLI..". (N JPAJN.
4Jl
urtuiriil,
1() riiils .
[)r Span
his that',
d ; t'rout
u be clc-
,illc; a!l
tF, called
tcdiiij^ly
iugc ai;d
^ persons
L insolent
atid wit!)
hose who
I order to
orbidden.
lo shonld
iiploniaey
LTmission
[uisiie for
kd objec-
any about
r them t'>
li' curbing
nd vend ii
aiion than
|)arl of her
icuiarlv in
not beirun
d six mil-
ar.a, which
.es iIk- rest
il revenue.
I npuMrds,
lis reeeipt.
.ni'uiatiou by
he followiiu;
;oi)(l iiiUuriiii
ol)iicco. Oiii'
. Tlu' king
d it, and, ad-
ijy snufl'-boA.
iiKlutnl IVtnr
f I-P- it nnonntulto 12'.) n^iUions, and sin-v the last war .1 miist l.aM been tnueh
- i'is !Ji^:t^^s:^^t ^:-^7:r. .. ... t.. th,
'"I'lK^e .^^'il^i^d.; a;;;ell^h:e"^ iKsides salt and tobacco. The^.are lead, ,.uu
po^;^;:card:s;;:;^.wa...^^^^
k m's iccoun and most people prefer purehasin|r there beeanse t .e hquors are better
nr fc u'l^r S -h Tmonqx Iv is c<.tn,nendable, and cannot lad o ben.^^ adm.red.
{ olXleral other smal/ impositions, the detail of which u ould exceed the bound.
'"'^ mo;;;Vep"h;:nsible part of the taxes of Spain is the provincial rents : a species
of h .)o t 1 ch chieily lalling upon die consumption of the most necessary articles
burd^ s the 'opks .^^^^^ one^of the ^^reatest obstacles to indt.stry . I <.r tu-o ages and
S^ ^^od^tizen has exclaimed against this impost. ^ --""^^^^V' r^^l d""
V need of its improprietv. The minister Campillo conceived the projec ol a total .e-
?jnn but ^. chsn aved by the trouble and the danger it presented ^^^^7"^'' ^^^
ol Is s cc<ssors, with greater power and more courage, ^^■ent a httle farther, bt.t Me
h V scln i unt^^ co.it^ribucion is only yet a project. Unhappily the system o Span-
s nimncc e, ends on circumstances whicli it would be necessary to change (or Us ame-
S^S Be.ides which, the continual urgency of state necessUtes has never pei^tml
overnment to risk the security of its revenues by experiments which might cea^on-
Riln, or the success of which might be dubious. We lujye seen m -a^^^ -\, ^
rost >V Turgot and M. Necker to plan a similar relorm. o produce it m bpa in a-
vorable opportunities are necessary, and a sovereign and ministers ^^ »Jo shou d ot be
Xned at the clamours ever excited bv innovations, or a Irench revolution uo .Id en-
r Bu i i^ not everv country which is alike disposed to provoke -r ccpially .^.
eptiblc of bearing one fand if Spain be destined to experience this happiness, o t s
SCO r^e, it is not' mprobable that the cause wlH be its finances 1 hose nvIo aie t e
.^ea'cTst'suftlrers are \oo widelv dispersed, too ignorant, have too lew means ol comnu -
n cation, and are consecpiently-too easy to be kept in restraint either by a "Hh^^^'T f^ ^'^
0 the c ergv, for government to fear ; and France has giv.n a lesson to sovereigns win
tl ev w-dl no Vail t'o profit bv, so as not to neglect the two supports m heir possession
t-u llllllding their inthoritV; the sword and the gown. The ----^^^[^;.^^.,- ^
bene iceiit will doubtless endeavour to render their yoke supportable, llc) ui I es.
se 1 1 It rthen of taxes, will avoid giving cause of complaint to their subjects ; but tl^y
V l take especial care not to invite diem in a fatherly manner, to come and P';-'^ ^^' "^
quires of sifierings; and the Slates General of France have dealt a death blou to the
^' Umirsmlli^'circumstances may operate a reform, the subjects of the Spanish monarchy
urc exposed to a most tlestructive system ot taxation.
The provincial rents are, . Pl/.lin IT
1st, The produce of a duty upon wnic, oil, meat, vinegar candles, ^t. * ' P "'
overwhelmed by the weight of vh. ruin.uis enterprises to which he was impelled b> h s
°n I lo; proposed it to^he Cortes in 1590, who consented upon conditions, most oi
'Ijj
no (Ten A s NT
I l; \ V L
I \
;r,\ I N.
wIm'.Ii liavc I'/rcii Molatcd. This ^rant, which Iim.^ mhoc l)ccn leiK'tVid <\iiy six )< .s.
and lias had (hlU rent iiiij^niU'iitaiions, is called the scivisio dc los milloncs, hi'causiit \\a^
li \irdto raise a certain ninnher of niilli')ns ot'chicats. 'J'his impost is (-(illectcd in two
inudLs, riiliLT immediately by tlu' comniissioutrs rif linancc, orhv wav of subscription ;
nor encabezamii ntos.
The second method has only the I'dxanta.^v of diminishiiu,^ ilie nnmher of person'-
< mployed by the treasury ; but it is in realit}- rajrc i->ppr(.'ssi\e to tlie people. Tlie con-
uibnlion for uhieli many cities, Ijoron.n'hs, and eommniiilies subscribe is ari)i(ranly ex-
acted by the ma^istrac} of each, \\ hoestaljlish a public ma;4M'/ine or \\-areh()use (abasto'i
w Ik re- ind.i\idiials arc o!)liL!,-ed to purchase b} r^'rail the articles subject to the dut}'. 'I'lu
lowir cIjsscm of ijioplv who cannot, like perso!i>, in i asy circumsianees, lay in a stock,
fed all ihc wcit^ht of this odious jiolic}. 'J'hcir houses are scarciitd to see that the}
consinni- nothing;- but what they purchase fnjin th.> ai)as:.o ; hence arise oppressive pro-
se cutions, which sometiiiies to tho><e least able to aH'ord, causes their proiiortion to be
double what it should be towards tne sum the city (m* community to which they belong-
has snbscribetl.
2di_\ , 'i'he pi-o\incial rents con:prise the alcabaie, a duty paid upon the sale of all
mowabks and immovables.
This was iirst i;-rantcd l.\v t!ie Cortes in l.'vlj. It was then but a twentieth of the
thin;:; sokl. In l.il'J it was increased to a tenth, and rendered pi-rpctual. In the six-
teendi century it received four additions, each an hundredth part ; whence it received
tlie name ol cientos.
'riuse two duties united, and cf)llected to-vther under the common denominations
of alcabaie y cientos, oui^ht therefore, strictly speakinp:, to amount to fourteen per cent,
buttluy \ary in diillrent cities and provinces accordiuLf to the ]Mi\iIeires ;^ranted by the
.so\ereir;n, which in some plates have entirely superceded them ; and they are no where
levied to their utmost extent. Accordiut;- to L'stariz, and such observations as I ha\e
been able to make, their averatjc is al)out six or seven per cent. Notwithstandint^ tiicse
modifications they do not prevent the ta.\ being highly burthensome to trade and in
dnstry.
Ca\\\ , 'i'he tercias reales are another impost jointly collected with the provincial rents,
it is the two-ninlhs which the court of li(;me since 1274 permits tlie kings of Spain to
recei\ e upon all the tenths of their kingdom. It is received in kind from the produce oi'
the earth, and is afterwards sold lor the king's account. This impost scarcely produces
six millions of rials; and would be susceptible of a considerable augmentation, did not
government, in collecting it, trust to the unfaithful statements of the ecclesiastical offices.
4thl\-, The ordinary and extraordinary service, and its fifteen in the thousand, is a
species of tax paid by the plebeians only, who in Spain are know^n by the denomination
of estad(3 general. It is collected with the alcabaie y cientos, according to an assess-
mcnt m:ide by the tribunals, in proportion to the known propercy of each of the contri-
butors.
Sthly, There is besides an impost upon the sale of soudaand barilla, with some other
particular taxes, which cannot be enumerated in this general account.
Lastly, The duties t)f entr_\ into Madrirl form another source of revenue to the king;
they are at present i'armed out to the commmiity of Gremios, at seven millions and a
half of reals. All the interior contrilnitiejiis of the provinces of the crown of Castile pro-
duce about 120 to IK) millions of rials (or somewluit above one million four hundred
thousand j)ounds sterling.)
i;nv ]'. (.0 AN \ 1
I !! A '.' F. r. u I \ S f \ I N .
AJ.i
The picviiK.:* (;i tlu.' crou-ii (»r Arriuron have mualur form of taxatinii. 'V\\v\ are
ixciupt iK.nnlu ;iUJjak-, fur whi.h iqiiivaknt (liilicsarc- subsliimal; tluy pay oik' i;i--
ncral (ouiribuiior, u!ri(litaclM:it\ , lK)n)ii!^-lN atul (•omminuty iisscssis |.r<)imrti(.natclv «)U
its iMlKll)itant^. As i1r!,i' pniviiuxs uiri' the \M tn ackiioulal.L^c the auihoritv ol I hihp
\\ ihat monarrh, to punish llieir ohstinarv, deprived them of a pari ol Uieir privil-t^es,
•mil establi^lixl a loim ol taxation dilVeiv-.U IVoin tliat of die crown ot Castile, lint
ills intention was evaded ; and, in laet, th.y are better inaf.d in this respcet than the
rest of the kins^alom. r/" -i
The provinees (^f tlie erown of Arrat-i. \ are besules subject, hke diosc ot Lastile, to
the iniiiost called tercias reales, and oblij^ad to take, at a fixed price, the articles salt, to-
bacco, lead, i!u:. which are sold for the kinjr's account. Hulli are alike liable to the
bull of the crusade. tj ■ i i
The primitive object of this bull was to tyrant induli^euvMes to tiiose Spaniards wiio
should contribute, either by personal ser\ ice or subscription, to supjiort the war aprainst
the infidels. The destination of the produce of the bull is still the same , since the Spanish
nionarchs u ho receive it arc obli.^ed to apply it to the snpp(;rl of their fortresses and s'arru
sons upon the coast of Africa. Until die reign of I'crdm uid VI, this .L-tant of the court
of Rome was to lie renewed everv live \ ears ; a subjection of tiie inconvenience ol wlucn
Philip V, was sutticienllv seii-^ible on tliree dilVcrent occasions, wlie.. his (piarrels u ilh die
holy see prevented hlni from t)btainin.y,- a renewal of the bull. It was not until the
compact ul 1753 that it was made perpetual : since diat time it has become a constant
source of revenue to the treasury ; and if Spain, infhicnced by motives of polu-y and
humanity, should become reconcilul to every infidel nation, as she has been under the
present reign to the Ottoman Port, and some"of the Bcubary regencies, this tax, though
inapplicable to its original purjiose, would not the less continue to be levied.
The price of die bull is fixed at 21 (luarlos, about M or \3 sols (7d. or 7^d.) N(J
Catholic in Spain can dispense with buying it without having his orthodoxy suspected.
Provided with dii-. liull, Ijesidis the ii\dulgencies annexed to it, he has the liberty of eat-
ing meat, with tlie consent of his physician and confessor, as also to eat eggs and milk
on fast da\ s, and during Lent. i • i
This species of voluntarv taxation is received liy the magistrate, who bears the title
of commissary general of the cruzada ; it produces to the king from eighteen to twenty
millions of rials.
The clergv are not exempt from it, nor is diis die only tax tin y pay.
In the first place, they are in part subject to that oi' los mlUones ; but to this it is nc-
cessary the pojic slujuld consent * '- ry six years by a brief. As there are man}' i)laces
wliere'seijarate accounts are not ki'pt lor ecclesiastics, they pa\ the whole tax in ctminion
with die laitv ; but the consumption which each ecclesiastic makes in wine, oil, and
other articles subject to the millones, is carefully estimated and always in their llnour.
In this manner a calculation is made of what they ought to pay of the tax, and they
are reimbursed whatever diev have paid above this tslimalion.
But, as in most cses, actual fact diflers a little from right, the clergy pay next to no-
thing of the millones, in the ^imaller districts, where diey easily ac(iuire a preponderance,
and "the weight of the tax falls ujion the body of the people.
There is anoilier trilling impost called siibsidio, to which ecclesiastics are also subject.
But die gicatcst contribution le\ied upon them is the escusado, which also is denomi-
nated casa dezmera, tentiied house, because it consists in the right granted by the holy see
to the kings of Spain, to appropriate to themselves the most advantageous tythe ol each
jiarish, us 'well of llic crown' of Castile as that of Arragon. This contribution, were it
•,j,l bounco wnlV, rnAvr.T.r; tv spaik.
cx:\ctly kvicil and colkclcd, would brini^ a very «;oiisidcral)lc: sum to the Spanish trta
surv ;'l)Ut il has luiMi made an objcrt of siKcnlnti'/H and sul^scription, which has con-
sidu'il.ly diniinishtd its produce." Under the rei.c:-:i of Ferdinand VI, a resolution was
takiii t.') discover what it rcailv would produce, and lor this purpc^se il ^vas tor some
vears manau'cd I)y commissioners. Hut bel'on- suHiiient inlormation was ohtaintd, the
inaniuis ol'lsciuiracc, cominti; to the administration oi Imunces almost at the same timi
diat Charles HI, ascended the throne, was too much in h istc to farm it. And notwilh-
siandini^h w is proved in 1 7r)6, that lor die crown of Castile alone it mi.^dit be stated at
1() milhons of rials, the minister of finances farmed out the whole of the csc.iisado, (oi
Arrra|-on, as well as Castile, at twelve millions, to the corporal ion of merchants at Ma
drid, e<.mm(M.lv called the C.reurK.s ; ;ind since then a part ol the clert^'y iiave obtained a
powxr of nK;na^'^l,^^ it on their own account, with whu h privilcj^^e duy wercallrjwed ar.
iibaiement (^f one-third, so that in 177'.' it did not produce more than ten millions.
Noluidistandinu; these restrictions, if we observe that the tercias reaksarc still an m
direct impost on the clerixv, and at the same time re-oll. ct that the kini,^s of Spam havi
the power of t^^antint^- pensions upon all benefices, even to a third of their produce, wl
shall iind there is littk foundalitni for die assertion di .1 tlu Spainsh clergy do not con
tribute to the cx)). nces of i.;overnmenl. Moreover, subsecpient to the war terminated
bv the trcLitv ol Bask, with the permission of the holy see, the ckrgy was even more
hea\i!v taxed than the ast of the nation ; the extraordin:iry assessments upon it on this
occasion imionnted to ;>C) millions of rials. This preierence it certainly well deserved.
It had ( xerled very successful eiforts to inspn-e the people \vitli the opinion that the
causL of (lod was 'identilied uith the war a;-;iinsl l" ranee. I have been satisfactorjly
assured that an oiler was made bv the .irt-'iK-ral of an order to die km.L,^ in 1793, to raise
a corjis of •10,()()() monks, to be Commanded In- himself. '■ The oiler was however not
accepted. But the Spanish clerfj:v not beiiii^- admitted to serve the sacred cause m per-
son the 'government tlunitrht it' reasonabk it sliould contribute from its immense
revenues. ,
It mav be imagined, diat Spanish America is one great source ot revenue to the royal
treasur\^ but hitlierto its produce has been but trilling, if the reveime arising from the
mines of Mexico and Peru, and die duties paid on the importation of its produce into old
Snain, be excepted.
'For a long time the cxpences of the administration of tliese immense colonics were
not defrayed by the reveiuies thc\- nrodnced ; and it is only since the administration of
M. de Galvez', that Mexico has yielded a surplus l)y the establishment of the farm of
tobacco.
All the dutksand contributions, of which I have given a summary account, produced
;n 177(i no more than 440,000,000 rials, in 1784 they produced 085,068,008, m
1787 only 6 i<v 295,057. This is the result of the account given by Lirena, the minister
m 1789." This account, which will long be famous in the history of Spanish finance,
although it be not the first of its kind, }et deserves some notice. Lerena, who up to
the dav of his deadi was considered a novice ; wliose rapid and inexplicable lortime
caused in 1785 astonishment mixed widi indignation, and who carrkd with him to the
grave die hatrt d of the public, earned In- his rigidity, his violent measures, and his per-
secuting, ungrateful, and vindictive spirit; Lerena was however firm and laliorious ;
liis account gives suflicicnt evidence of this. The new king, being desirous oi establish-
ing that reform in liis finances which the happiness of the nation and die public voice
• It \v;ii Father Joachim Compary, at present archbishop of Valcntia.
not'nr, o.\ nnt.
J n .\ \' R I. : IN :. r a i .n
42.
ish trtM-
hiis con-
tioii was
or some
lud, tin.
nic tinii
notwith-
bt;»tcil at
sado, Coi
isal Mu
Ijta'mcd a
owed ar.
iS.
ill an in
)ain liavi
Incc, uv
not con
I ininatcd
en more
it on this
Reserved,
that the
sllictorily
1, to raise
vever not
ic in per-
immensc
the ro\al
from tlic
c into old
nics were
itration ol'
e farm of
produced
8,008, in
: minister
h finance,
vho up lo
ie fortiujc
lim to the
d his per-
aliorious ;
cstablish-
blic voice
icqiiircd, ordered lo f)e laid before him an acconni of all the suppressions thrjt rouM
possiblv tak( place of ofiieers employed in eollectiui^ the taxes. Len na in his ae< ount
be|j;an with an assurance, that, takini^the diversity and complication of the imposts inf-
eonsiderc.Mon, anj' supi)ressic!i whatever was ini[)racticable.
In order to prove the inconveiiienec which, as he termed it, a j)itiful e( onomy would
occasion, he < iied, on on*' hand, the example of Kni^land, which, for the simple branch
of the customs, had nine directors \\ith lar}i;e salaries, and drew I'rom it on an a\'erajj;(
/;3, 789,274 slerliny; (this was previous to tile first war with I'Vanee) and, on the other,
that of our famous L!;ineral, who, having- nes^leeted to appoint insi)eetiut^ clerks ai>;reeal)l\
to the additional eonventioii ol' 1.5th Jan. 17H7, lor the purpose of vali;.inuj the Kn.ijlisli
merchandise allowed by the tn aty <if (commerce to be imported into France, tin
revenue of that couiitrv wis delraucKd of two or three millioJis of livres. and Frane("
was inundated with a flood of l''.uLj;lish ;..';oods, to the material injury of her own manu
factories.
It had been asserted, that the salaries of the ollicers amounted to at least our halfoftiu
taxes collected. Lerena allirmed this to be a manliest I'alsehood ; and proved it by the
ibllowinj^ detail :
1st, The t^ineral rents, with which were joined those of the admiraltv and of health.
Rials l.'^D.lOH.Hi?
Hi;
als
gave fm|)loyment to i^i'l persons, who collected
Whose salary amounted to .... r>,,)7^>,127
And that of the resi;iiardo of the whole kint;dom ; that
is to say, the innards for preventin.tr fraud - 5, .'lO 1,322
Collectively, therefore, the amoinit of ex|)en(e uas
2dly, The rent of tobacco and snufV jiroduced in 1787
It occupied 4,587 persons at a salary of - - 13,631,530
To which is to be added the allowance of 10 percent.
on all thev sold granted to the retailers, in number
13,675 ' - ' 2,416,580
Making a total of expence on die collection of
3dly, The provincial rents amounted in 1787 to
">150 persons employed, caused an exiKiice of
Larenu proved, that by useful reforms which he had eftceted, this
branch of revenue had increased 14,350,124 Rials.
4thly, The rent of salt produced .....
It employed 1,515 people, at an expence of ....
5thly, The revenue from the duties on die exportation of wool
produced ........
And the salary of 221 persons employed in its collection amounted to
6thly, The revenue from powder, with that of the mines of copper
on the Rio Sinto, and that of the manufactory of cards for Spanish
America, produced .......
Employing 290 persons, at an expence i.r ....
7thly, The revenue from sidpluir produc :d ....
And the charges on it for its 8 collectors w ;k, - . - .
8thly, The revenue from ciiucksilver, and its accessories
The collectors of w hich recei\ ed 8 per cent, on the amount
9thly, That Irom cards lor Sj^ain produced .... -
And the 9 clerks were paid . . . . ,
vol., V. 3 1
10,876.41,'
129,007,41-1
16,047,110
122,857,678
9,974,085
55,408,934
4,676,844
27,449,246
635,943
3,468,124
1,116,452
369,417
14,650
436,844
34,947
1,072,649
44.944
I2b
UOl'Ri-.OANNL':; irAVM- IN .'l'M*t.
AliLi- thus nivsci.tini,' ti KC.KT..I detail of tlu- ivvcMn.cs collected l)y cl«rectoi;. a.,u
Ucntral .•(,.n.ni...irKs, Ur,m (.l.scrvcd, tluit the lui-.ons cnploNU m tl.t;^ d. K .vut
j,ianrlusa.n...iin;dl() 10.721', uh..st sabrksurn: -^ Kuh o.,lA/,^rU
uhi(h lormtd a chaiirt upon the- aiuouiU nccivcd ol about , nal.s
I.) luaravKlus per (tin. thai amoiliU l)ciiiK • - _ •
To these principal sources of nvciuic, J I oilu r articles remamed
Lo be added, collectid by diH'ereul aduiiiusirators, and produeiivg
lu 17H7 - ■ - .■
'J'lic I'xpence of their collection amountnii;; to
Miakini; about 2 rials, 17 maravedus per rent.
Herapilulatintr ilu precediu^j articles, the e.xpcnce ol collection
altO}^etherabM)rijed the sum ol • - " "
And the total of revenue amounted to
So that the cost of the collection was In a ratio to the amount
ofC) rials, It mar. per cent. ...
Moucvtr, to this was to i)C added the expeiice ot niaintauunf,'
3, .'^71 guards, whose business it was to prevent smuo;Kdin^s which cost
which added to the preceding sum, made the entire expencc ol
« ollcction - - ■ ■ ' ■
(leneral Recapitulation.
Total of persons employed in every shape
Amount of their salaries - - - • ■
Tlie whole re veiuu; ■ - • ■
Their colKrti(Mi consequently cost littlo more than a twcllth part.
Larena farther triumphed l)V comparison of this expencc to that
of the same description in Kngland and France, m which countries
said he there are no doubt a sufficient number of detractors o
Spanish' administration; and the result of the comparison appea.red
nstonishinu: to the Spaniards. ,.,.,,
At this time, said he, according to Smith, the revenue of Kngland
is - - - - ' * ■ "
The expencc of collection . - - •
It conse(iuently costs more than tin j)er cent. ,
In France, the revenue of 178lHjeiiig
Tlie expencc \vas ------
Thus did they each absorb more than a tenth of the whole revenue. Lerena added,
that on his coming into admhiistralion, Spain liad an annual deficit toco\er of 40 mil-
lions of rials ; that he had augmented its revenue more than 100 millions, and expected
still to increase it 50 millions more. Death, liowever, did not allow him to realize
these brilliant hoi)es ; and the expences to which Spam became afterwards subject would
otherwise have obliged him to forego his plan. , • • i ,
The remainder of his memoirs is but an apology for the courage and activity that he
had displayed ; a little master-piece, of arrogance, in w hich he is neither modest with
respect to himself, nor parsimonious of injurious expressions against the great, the rich,
and the ignorant, in which classes alone, he assures the king, are there any calumniators
of his administration.
.^>io,«5y,i)3:
10.'),4:15,72C
2,047,33;"
40,483,248
G16,2l>5,057
11,002,04.'^
51,485,893
27,87r;
51,485,893
G1G,2')5,057
Livres
246,966,000
25,911,000
544,800,000
57,655,000
DOt'nr.uAN V (
J It.\'. i.1,2 IN jf AIN
As a jrprosmtation ofihc rcvcMiucs of Spain, then: is nothin^r w;mlin,if iti tliis picoi;,
\ display ol' its tkhts and cX[K'iuliturc is liowcvir a dcsidtratiim which is '.Iscwht re to be
soiij^lit I'nr
In 177C, the siiniof'itscK|)onditntc Wii
or which the .irmy cost more lhai\ • • ■
And the navy above , . . .
It is true in'that year the navy inenrred the greater part (■!' this
cxpeiicc in a very short war witli I'ortngal.
In 1777, the total e>: pence was ....
Out of whieli the army cost more than
And the navy IjiU Httl • above ....
And as the uhoU; of the revenue this year amounted to no more than
There was consequent!}' a deficit of
Recourse was had to momentary and ruinf)usixpedients to cover
a pa.'t of this ; but as at tliai time the i^overnment was em|)loyed in
prepns-ations for a war which shortly after hajjpenKl, it was obliiijed
to adopt meat\s, not perhaps the best possible, but the most certain,
by iroreasing, 1st, the provincial revenue
f.dly, The revenues of the crown of A rrapjon
And 3dly, That of tobacco, by ....
But the product being necessarily slow of receipt, onl} eonsifiuent,
and probably over calculated, the minister of fniance was o!)liged, i\\
1779, to extort from the society of the Gremios at Madrid, an ad-
vance of SO millions, at 5\ percent.
'I'iicse measures yet beinj; insuflicient, recourse at leiit^th was had
to royal notes, of ^vhich wc shall in future s[)ealc more largely
In 1784, at the end of the war, the expenditure was
;uk1 the receipt by extraordinary means was made to cover it.
In 178G, the whole revenue of Spain was
And in 1787, as we have before shewn
But the amount of debt was
Let us proceed to detail it, and advert to its source.
CHAPTER 11.
Rials
.'50.'), 586,471
200,000,000
127,000,000
47(>,.'58.'5,.'i6,'.'
210,000,000
86,000,000
.",72,146,881
104,038.681
.■>0,000,00l;
12,000,000
2,000,000
rials 685,068,068
615,3r>5,147
616,295,657
1,54.5,906,914
ANCIKM AND MUDKIIN DKIIIS OV SPAIV. Cltl'.M lOH. UOV.VI. NOIKs. VHOJl-CiS I Oil lUl,
AMKI.IOKA riOV OF I MK HV.\NCI,S.
THE sovereigns of the Bourbon family inherited from tho.sc of the house of Austri.i
debts, called Juros, which however, Ixar but a moderate interest. This is yet a charge
to the stole of about 20 millions of rials (203,0001.) the payment of which is nnidc from
different branches of the revenue.
Philip V, left debts to the amount of 45 millions of piastres (about 7,500,0001. stcr
ling.) At his death, Ferdinaixl VI, terrified at so enormous a burden, and hesitating
between the fear of making the state support it, and die scruple of depriving the creditors
of their right, assembled a junto, composed of bishops, ministers, and lawyers, and pro-
posed to them the following (juestion : Is a king obliged to discharge the debts of his
predecessor? It was decided in the negative. The conscience of his majesty was
quieted, and bankruptcv resolved on.
42b
bouhcoanne's ruwF.r.s in ai>.\iN.
Fcrdiiiaiul VI, carriid his incousidfratc cconoiuy Mlill I'lirtlur. Wholly ciniilojctl in
milking suvings, hi- siilUntUvtry hraiich of administraiiDii to laiignisi); the army, i\)r.
tresses, aiul folntiiis wire luglccttd. W'lii n ( hurlis III, asciiidtd tlu tlironc iji 1751?,
he round in th< nnalcnIUrs upwards of (),()()(),( )0(i|. Stirling, and th(Jiij:,ht it inc nnihint
(inliiinto repair the lata! omission ol lerdinand V'i, In 17()^, he paid six per cent, ot
the capital due from Pliihp V, and continued paying annually the sanu' lor live years. In
1 707, the dividind w.is reduced to lour |)ir cent. 'I'he loUowing yiar sixteen millions
ol' rials were ilistributtd among the cricliiors; ar.:l in 17(»9, the expences ol tlie stale
were s(j incaased as to necessitate a suspension ol" liirilu r dividends ; an intirrupliou
which ga\e the finishing stroke to the crulit of royal efl'ects. Whilst I was in Spain the
first time, people were gl.id to st II tluir claims at a loss ol" eighty pir cent.
However, there are some opportunities ol disposing of them to greater advantage.
Sumttiiijes on treating with goverimuiu upon any enterprise ii wishes to lavour, a cer-
tain portion ol'ihtni is received at par. 'I'iiey arc, moreover, received in paynunt of
the medias annatas; hiit, except in these particular cases, the claims upon Piiilip V, are
almost ol' no value; they l.ear no interest, and the entire li(piidaiion ol them, ii'ever it
should take place, can only be considered as ^ cry distant, pariicidarly to loreigners. lor
them, however sacred their claim, hov;cver powerful their advocates, they must seek in
vain ibr exception IVom the law which I'orbiils the payment ol' foreigners until such time
as the nation's creditors be w holly satisfied. I have I'reciuently heard the following proof
related at Madritl : A valet de chambre ol" i^ouis XV, was a holder of one of these st-
emities, and imagined he might profit by the favour shewn him by the king to obtain an
exception. Louis X\', wrote w ith his own hands to Charles ill, recjuesting he would
grant it; but tlie Spanish monarch answered the king, that he was obliged to refuse his
re(juest.
Charles I\', upon his accession to the throne, testified his wish of paying the debts of
l*hilip \', and lerdinand VI, pointing out those which he was desirous shoidd be wiiolly
paid, and those which the treasure might receive in paynxent of duties. Scarcely had
ihtsc measures been sketched out, before preparations for an useless war, and shortly
liter the consecjuent expences, obliged him to suspend them.
So many aberrations from tin ir purpose cannot but have greatly weakened the credit
A' the Spanish government. Of this Charles III, whose honest nature inspired universal
I steem, twice had a vexatious proof.
In 1783, he endeavoured to open a loan of 180 millions of rials (about 2,000,0001.)
One of the conditions of which loan was, that the claims upon riiilip V, should be re-
• xivcd to the amount of a third of the subscription. This, however, did not raise the
value of the claims so much as was expected. At the beginning of the }ear 1785, it
had scarcely produced 12 millions (jf rials, and it was soon afterwards closed. Fcjreigners
were unwilling to expose themselves to fresh hazards ; and as for the Spaniards them-
selves, they ure in general suspicious, and have no disposition towards stock-jobbing.
They prefer a moderate gain to hazardous speculations so eagerly adopted in some other
countries; and arc more than any other nation attached to ancient habits.
For a long time past, fur from being tempted by foreign speculations, they confine their
confidence to a company of merchants at Madrid, known by the name of Gremios, which
we have already mentioned.
The treasure of the Gremios is a kind of public bank, in which individuals may place
their money at the moderate interest of two and a half and three per cent. The foun-
dation of the confidence it inspires, is the constant support which government has given
iioirur.u \:.'yi s I K.wiii.s in stmn.
■yj\f
< <l i[«
, l')r-
1 7.)y,
iiil)(.'nt
lit. ot"
IS. Ill
llions
stale
iiptioii
iia tilt
tfic Circniios, ;iii(l tli< n;<iiliirity with uliith t!K\ luivt iilw.iys paid tin mtrrrst of tin
ja|)it.il ill tluir Ii>iik1i; ;iii(l .iltlioiiirli tluy lu.iy ha\t: h;i:',arilccl spic.iilatioiis l)i)()inl tliL-ir
ahilily, iiiul tlu'V Ik- (.uiuiiiiially in advaiici' to .^^)Viriiinctit, nothing hitlKTlo has shaken
thiir credit. 'I'hiy hold, as uc have ol)>crvid, the fanu of thi (hairs f)i\ entry at Ma-
drid, and a smail portion olihi «s(iis'i({(> ; and are (-otucriRd in the priiuipai nianufacto-
ries in tiie kiii}j;d<)ni. Tlie f^ovi rnur. nt, vviiieli has IVetincnily had ncoursc to them in
cases of necessity, has loiij; considered their bank as the chief pillar of the state.
Administration, houevi r, has l.iti ly p( reiivid that it conld do without them. Neces-
sity even made this .i law. Ai the Ix f-innin^ ol the American war, the state no loiij^er
havinfi;at hand the ixtraordinary resources re((iiired for the lUiiintenance of its forces by
sea and land in both In niispheres, and deprived of the periodical treasures brouj^ht from
Spanish Anarica, which it was unwilliii!^ to expose to the seizure of l''.i)fr|ish privateers,
thought it necessary to make use of a resource, until tjun iinth(ju}^lu ol in Spain. It
made application to some French merehanis established at Madrid, and iK;^)tiattd by
tluirmeansa loan of nine millions of piastns (about 1,500, ()()()!. sli-rliii,:^) and issuetl pa-
per tothe amount of the same sum. This was divided into ->ixl(-en llionsaml live hun
died bills, or vales realis, of six hundred piastres each, at an inteixst oi' four per (xiit.
Government were blamed r.)r not liavinj^esl.iblished at the same time a bank, at which
these bills mif^ht have been jjaid in cash on presentation; but disposeabk' I'unds would
have been re(|uisite I'or such a measure, and liie siujple creati(jn of [)aper.mone\' proM d
that of such they were deficient.
The court was blamed, with more apparent reason, for ha\in|.'^ nej^otiatcd the loan
upon disadvantaf^eous terms, which betia\ini^ its embarrassment could not but diminish
public Confidence. In fact, the bankers who by their credit realized the loan, asked ten
per cent, commission, and obtained it. But in such nei^otialions the lender calculates
his risk, and the borroner his necessities; hence arises the law which one imposes and
the other receives.
However this may be, as soon as the nep;o!iallon was matleknow.i oftlu motives and
securities, alarm became ijjeneral. All exclaimed af^ainsta measure which, said they, the
most extreme distress e> v.ld scarcely excuse ; i\ measure sometimes taken (b discharge
pressing debts, but never to contract iKW ones. Foreign bankers, who had advanced
their money, slated, through llu: medium of Mr. Neeker, that they were taken by sur-
prise, and intimi'ted deception, seeming to suspect that the Spanish government had con-
ceived the wild scheme of re-imbursing them in paper, or the ridiculous hope of giving
lliis paper a value out of Spain. It lost not a moment in removing their fears, and
proving to them by actual reimbursements, how little foundation there had been for
alarm.
Nevertheless the bills circulated in Spain. But the temptation of a greater interest
than that commonly paid for ordinary subscriptions was not sufficient to give them credit.
Every person took as few of them as possible, and was eager in passing them again.
In course of the war they were at a loss of twenty-six per cent, and the people exclaimed
loudly. They knew not that at the same lime the Americans, fighting for their liberty,
almost entirely destitute of coin, saw their paper-money fall to forty antl fifty per cent. It
was not foreseen that a neighbouring nation, struggling for the same cause with almost
all Europe, would have paper of u hich four and live hundred should be given for one,
and yet survive the crisis.
This momentarily critical situation of government was a new triumph for tlie Gremios.
The credit they enjoyed was increased by the diffidence with which the bills were re-
no
Bofru. i-tANNK i TiiAviij fs r.r\t.v.
ciivcd. 'I'lu ir hink seemed an asylum to uliirli pcoplo jvsort.d to Indgf in sccur.'v
llu' nutiK'V liny tlioiij.'la exposed to duij^iT in tlie liiinds ot' i;oviT:nn« nt.
Ill tlu- ni' an inne, the n<;(n ssities of i;o\(-ninn.nt increasinjr with the contiiiuanec ol
tlic war, new bills to the amount ol" live millions ol piastres were ibsiied in the month ol
l'VI)iiiarv 17>U ; in short, the lollowin^; ye.\r dlhers were issvied in hills of MM) piastres
(ai !i, to'the amount of •J21.U(J«,5(K) rials' (2,.''>()0,00()l.) Its whole debt of this deserip-
tiun then amount' d t(» 4,1 l,l)!)8,r)()() rids (about r),()()(),()n01. stcrlinpr) without rockonin);
oblif^atiouH of a less appiireiit nature, which raisscd it to near 800,000,000 of rials
(0,(H)(>,(KK>l. stuliii^-.)
At llu- time thi; lirst l)il!s wen- i:,sned, Charles III, enjifipied to withdraw a part ol
them annuitil}- from eiieiilalion. Hut as at the iKj^inninj? of the war he had l)een obliged
lo uverlMMilieii his peopleby .in au^^miMil.ition of atax on s'uneofthe priin ipal neeissa-
rii s of life ; at tlu return «tf peaee, he prUenvd alleviatinj^ this burtlun, to keepiiuj; his
(n,u;ii^i lumt with the etuliii)rs of tlu' state; and it was not before the inu.uh of June
17H.'), that bills to the amount of 1,2()0,()()() piastres were withdriwn.
A few weeks afterwards, to the ast'inislnm nt of the |)ubhe,, other paper was issued, to
the ani'iuiu of '1S,(H)0,000 uf rials ; these last bills, it is true, had for f>b|ect the- eontiii'Ui-
tion of the eanal of Arrafiou, the profits (jf whiih were to serve as see.urity, so that this
e.onld not be eoiisideritl as.ieharj^e to the state.
In the iiuan time, the alarm whieh the real paper-money 1> excited was di-sipated
b\ iUf;icis. Thi ro\al notes were taken ai [lar, and at the elose of 17HG ihey befran to
be sought I'.fter, and even bore a premium.
The war which took plaee in 17'.>.3 made fresh emissions neeessan ; yet the vales
\\'( re at the most critical period at no ^rc atcr di^ccnint than 23 to .")() pc r c i nt. ; whieh, as
this kind of paper is disiitute of any spieial security, if the precarious i^juarantce ol a
des])otic i^overnment be excepted, is rathir a matter of sur|)rise. Towards die middle
• )f 17I'(J, these notes upon the frontiers were at adiscfumi of 10 to 12 per ecr.t. while in
the capital they were at no more than (> to !-! per cent. loss. At a later period, when a
fupture with Kn^laiid was apprehended, they lell to 18 per cent, discount; and it was
foreseen that in ease of its taking- plaee, the loss upon thent would be unlimited.* The
amount in circniaiion at that time \vas ]4[H) millions of rials (17,000,0001. sterling);
md far from lesseniu}^ the amount, u loan look jilace in l/Df) lor :2'10 millions more, at
> jxr cent.
\\'hat a Usson for f.;overnments, whether monarchical or a publican! A suspension
of various useful enterprisers, a spoliation (A' part of three of her provinces, the death of
iroin forty to lifty thouaund of her subjee:ts, the loss of a valuable colony, which how.
ever did not in truth attain prosperity under her p;overnment, an increase of taxes and
debt; these were the fruits which Spain reaped from a transite)r\ abandonment of its
real interests, in striving to avenge the death (;f aking, and the violation of its holy re-
ligion. At the instant of war being resolved upon, (I was witness to the general enthu-
siasm) die whole nation, with the exce|)tion of a i'cw enlightened individuals, partieipa-
teel the indignation of the court. Rdigious cotimiunities, grandees, rich proprietors,
all m;ide it a duty to second its every eiVort. IJut the events of the war, almost wholly
iinl'orlunate, the e)bstinacy with which we defended a cause that the Spaniards at first
considered so odious, the necessity of rest alter such violent agifitions, the tardy convic
"In effect, tluy fell 75 pci' rent. <liscov»iit in 1801. il'ii -aficr the signing of preliminaries with
En^hmei they rose rapitliy. As e.irly urs Ifi02, they were but iit '20 per cent, discount; and in the
month of April, they were at Ai iilerdani at only l.'i percent, loss. The arrival of the treasure so
lonjj expccli-d from America may po.->si!)iy raise them to par.
HOtlK.oANM. :; lUAVLLi IN '.I'AIN.
.lU
iiou of till' slin:lit iiitcnst uIi'uIj Spain had iti wiakiniiij;' a iiii^diljoiiriiip: stati , its natiimi
all} , thfic ( itlltctivc I irciinislaiK'cs .ihaiid its ptisiiitL u.tnnth. Iiulitii ixiici' unit iv
s|)i ct to the war at lirst, and MiccihsiMly iinp.'.ticncc hron^lit alxiut piuci'i and iievtr
was nt'at'c nion- Inokul lor. nor riciiwd wiiii ^rtatir ir.msport tliaii that, tlif \u->\> ol
NvJiifM I was I lur^;i(l witli isiablisliiiiij; .il I' i^m ivs ; ami uliic li was di Tninivi ly si^iuil ai
Basic tile JJd ol'Jid} 17U'\ Ixtwciii t'u I'lvnch rcpuhlu; ami tlic kiuj; t I Spain.
It was then hope (I that the- court of M ulrid uoidd ciuplov its kisnic and tin savin;4;s
kjfpfacf in ri pairiii;; till hn a( his t llrcti il in its linanci' hy a war, to s,i\ tin hist ol' it,
\istks<j and without oljjii:t. lint slioiily altirwards a *.tcund riipturi.' suspuided the iv-
turn uf its cxtirnal ix'suurcis, and delayed the- puiod ol its einplo\in|^Mhc imaiiH oi
restoration. (ioMrninent has, !iowL\er, ttlLcted the discover}' ol them uhhin the- kini:;-
doiu,even in midst ol' the ealaniiiiex ol' war.
Spain contains an imiiKiise (piaittity of liUKkel propirt}-, known hy the name o!
Meinorias }• Cosradias. The lirst consists in loundaiions made in lavom' of dilli rent
churches, under the oblif^^ation ol sayinj^ mass lor the sou! ol the testator. TIk Cosradias
are bccjuests ol' religious persons, consecrateel to the particular si rvici- of thi iniaj^cs ol"
the Virgin Mary and various saints. I'or too long a linu' hail the distillation ol tlu-x
dirtereiit properties made them to he considered as sacred. Under a Uss enlightened, and
less courageous goveriiUKnt, ne\er would a minister have d.irid to touch tlirm ; ami i!
the Spanish nation were so gi iierally or so hlindl) superstitious as il is esltcmed to he,
they could not have been touched with im|)unity. This measure has, howexer, been
taken, and happy lias been the result since its adoption in November IHO ).
The soil, palsied through the piet\ ol' the laithl'ul, inalien.ibU like other ecclesiastical
property, was badly managed and worse tilled. Government exposul lands ol this de-
scription to sale, for the purpose ol successively cancelling the royal notes. In the early-
part ol' 1802 these sales had already i)roduced ten millions of piastres (1,250,0001. ster-
Spain has reaped advantage from this measure in every sha|K>, in spite of scruples,
purchasers flocked in abundance, in the hands ol their new proprietors these lands
double their former crops. Thus has governnunt maile a long stride towards the ame-
lioration of agriculture, and the increase of population. A lew such additional efVorts
of courage will tend to rescue the country from that prcjudieiable langour, more hurt
ful perhaps to its interest than bad ad luinisiration itself.
Bui in Spain perhaps more than in any other country, boldm ss most be tempered
with caution. Innovations are there disliked : it is a country wiiieh clings to aiu ieiit
prejudices; and this propensity has hitherto prevented the adoption of certain useful
measures which, while ihcy would have benefited the revenue, woidd not have been op-
pressive to the people. In the reign ol Charles III, government had it more than once
in agitation to appropriate to itself the property ol ilii four military orders, which wf)uld
have produced much more in the hands of the sovereign than under its present bad
management, and besides bringing an incriase of revenue, would have furnished the
means of compensating by pensions the commanderics atuiexed to these orders. But
the scruples of the monarch prevented the adoption of the project.
Another eejually reasonable would be a gineral ta.x upon all the lands in the king-
dom, not excepting thf)se of the nobility and clergy. But this project, against which
those two powerful bodies would certainly exclaim, and whose inti gues would present
obstacles which the Spanish government might find it ditlicult to overconie, without
calling in a dangerous support, will perhaps oblige Spain to aw ait, in the slow resources
I.'J
ftOl'lH.O AVNft 3 ITAVtl'. IN STAIN.
nf icoufMny, the lulvatUagcs nIio might propoM* t > herself from a sikWiii but danjjoiouN
« hnnge.
Under rinrlcH IIT, the- jrovcrnm"iif, fir fioiu h'vv;^ nlurnud at th-.* frcatinciu htr re
Jiirnin}; ( rt<rit rif%f imi with, did not drUr n v<'»nd iitlcinpf, int'tj Id if) )^ivc to her
fi ip( r ;m adv »ntn!jjiniH i.irc.tilition, to aw.ikui ihi- SpaniariU from tlu-ir lctharf»y, drav\
fiDni thur c!Kr4ts ilu? money then lyin;^ useless, both to tlxniselvc** and the state, and
throw if into ( invil;ition to the advant.i;^o of eonuneree ;ind inchisfry. Sneh wire h( i
},Me.it olijcets ill cst:iI)Ushinj;' in 17MI a nation il bank, uliuli his stari'ely any thiii^j ii
foinnv»n, rxecpt itsnaine. with the banks «)r other states in Kurop<'.
c iiAi'i r.u 111,
lUNK ('»' hi . I IIAHI.K'I. Noun. CUI.N.
'i'lll, iiUa ui'a national bank was^iven by a Fivneij banker, M. Cabarrus, establishcil
at Miiiliid, who bij^aii lo insinuate hinisi.ll' into tlii' l.nour of ;.;()V( rninent at the time
the (ii'-t I. ills wire issiutl. M. Cabarrus Ivid a \ ii^fotous and linn mind, with lal< nts
eiilti\aud in sierel lo the puind uliiih l»|f^tl^ht liiiu into notiei . 'I'lic favour of the
minislir would n<it have suliieient to enable hiiu to combat with success the numirous
obstacUs he hid to encounter. l'',iub.irkcd in a projiet, in which a thousand prejudices
eoncurrid to piwuit hi-. suc.eeci!iii|;, he has at once aecpiiied great honour, and an int.
meiise fortune, diininislud no doubt by the persecutions he has since luuLrgone.
Nothiii.;' but partiality can attribute to elianee alone such brilliant and eonlinued sue-
ees:,. Si. Cabarrus has had very ardent Irieiidsi and bitter eiiemiis. This is not the l<i»
of eoininoii un n.
Ill 17H1, after luivin,;^ pidfoundly mcdit.ited on the resources of Spain too Ion;; un.
|(rodneti\e, die cames by which thi} had bun o!).structed, and the means of givinj; theUi
aclivii), he dis^esled tla plan of a national l)ank.
lis principal obj< cl was to give employment lo a large sum of money, which was either
imtmploMd, or placed at a very moderate interest. The first means he proposed svas
to istablish a capital, which would discount, at four per cent, per annum, all bills of
eNcliaii^e drawn upon Madrid. This cxpidieiii was trilling ; Madrid is not properly a
• omm.reial city. The wool S|)ain sends abroa^l is the principal article paid lor in that
metropolis, aiul this ahjiie would not have furnished any very fruitful employment for
the capital of the new bank.
The i^rofits of thy realgiro were superadded, a particular species of bank, from which
the court takes the money il has occasion to send abroad, either for the payment of am-
bassadors, envoys, consuls, Sec. or for other |)urposes. This still was but a weak assist-
.ince, no more than two or three millions ol livies annually passing through this bank.
But the chief source of profits whiih M. C ibanus proposed to open to the national
bank was the victualling and furnishing cjf the navy and army. Contracts for the first
liad heretofore been given to diilerent jiersons. The second was held by the Gremios,
and the several leases and contracts with ihese and the government were upon the point
<if expiring. The bank might therefore soon obtain possession of Uieir privileges.
Government was easily induced tofaviiur a plan, which went to distribute among a
great number of citizens those profits hitherto confined to a few. The capital of the
proposed bank amounted to the sum of 300,000,000 of rials (3,400,0001. sterling) di-
vided into 150,000 shares, 2,000 r'uia each. No one who had property to purchase
shares was excluded from the profits they might produce, and these, according to the
prospectus, were very promising. Besides idle money to which a deposit was afforded
• OfK'.'iA.VNK S J li \ \ r J , iS ,v \ts
iX
.'ml )i«;M«<l a Ik III fit, it w:is hop' (I tli.it :i fj^n .it p irt n| tfi.it in tti« li.iiirl, »»| tin (niinios,
at a iii'i'lt i-ii< iiitinst, wmiM In riiicAtd liuiii tin ir intlii-> |f) tlio,! n| tlii n.ition.il
Iniiik. TIk- stirpliis oI (Ik' kviis oi'cilloi ttiid roniitiiiiiitits uiri.' iiIho coitiittd upon.
TIh'MC ^V(,ri: ill the ;ulllliui^lr.:ti^rl of thi (oiiiicil nl ( istik-, uhtru'i. thi Million il bank
was to take, and pl:i<'< ihctn lut the a(t\aiiia;;i' ol the person-, conci riurt. In Sp.iih
iIkti- arc luana/iiKs <»l !;r.iin in most nl tin «iiii>, l>oroii^lis, and \illaj^«». Tli. jr <>in
phis is cotiviriid into inotuy. This wan atvi an nnriniilni ( ipital, Nvliich th> h.nik
in*:p;ht make prutliK ii\< .
Thi pro)cil appr.iii'd to pioniisc f^rtat atl\.inta;;« luiAiiy rlas , ol' riti,'cii>». It i> ii'.*;
iIkitI'Mi.' astonisliiii|{tiiJt it slionld ji.tvt-luin adoptidliv ilw adininitUation.
It uasdistiisscdin I "Ml, in atiasvinliiy foinpov tl ol nu inlii rs liom tJK' chi« I liraiiclu-«
of ^^o\( rnnu lit. and \\lio(';nu<' to a d( lenniiiation tli.il ilir ti.iti/ncil !> Mik, or l)aiik <A
St. C liarKs, ilioiild he <li.irj^wil with \ i(;iiiallin;r .md ( jotliin;-; iIk arni_\ . mil luini^hinji
the navv with the articles abovc-nicntionid, tli.it it should Ix allowid im interest ol
lonr per eent. on account ol" the ad\u.i! es made to |.^ovi rntmnt. and a eoininission oftc n
pc r ct nt.
The prospr< t held ont was appanntly s(.(lii(li\f' ; h(nvi\ir, the j^Teater part of (in
people \\\iv jininoM'd liy it. I'l-w withdixu thtir moiuy I'kmm tlu' liank ol the CJri'
mios ; who wm only olilijrtd tor.iiii tht inti n^t tin.) |niid toiliin and a h.iH'iKr eeii'
The newestahlishiuini hail sonu parti/.ans, I ait tlu si appt and su'.pieioii^. It'»ant:i«;'i)
nists, anmd with the pntciue of public ^;'iod, lunihly iIk l.iiinid against it; thty kept
up u mistrust lia" which anterior esents hail laid a roiindation, and j^ained many owr t<
thiir opini<ii'.
The iiKiUKs to the mw Iniiik wire, in the lirsi plaei', all thosi' \\ho are c(|iially so to
every novilty ; others whose calenlalioiis were deran^a d by it, and those especially who
Iron) jealousy or national pnjndice lo(>ki.d with an i\il ryi: upon a roreijj;ner, su|)ported
b\ till.' ministry; wluj, siiid iluy, takrs ;id\;int;i}^i' of a tr;insiint endit to overturn a na.
tioi\ uhieh might iind aiuon^- its own liiixeiis nun who uiKlcrst;inds its inten sts mudi
better. The parallel alread\ dniwn between the erealion of paper credit ;ind the system
ni' the famous law was then reeolleetid.
'i'he j)rojeet in France- was that ol" an ambitious str;injj;er, who had (.^iven a mf)rtal
blow to the credit of the kiii_u;doni, by indeasourinp; to rentier it flmiri'.hiii}^. In Spain
it wa.-i that ol a stran^^er also, who pretended to anim;ite public credit and onunerce,
;ind aspired to seduce the nation, b) temptiiifj; it \\ ith a rhinu iic;il profit. Maeh had
fuiiiihed the plan of a bank ; therefore the resemblance was perfect. Thus jiid;j,e the
prater part of men. Malevolence pretended, and echoed upon by credulity and
ignorance, that the bank of St. Charh s presentirl to tin- public apian of operation illu-
sive in its nature, and totally iiuomp;itible w ith the true intirists of the nation ; and
which instead of favouring thi' liberty of e;oinnieree, must be prejuilitial to that, as will
as to agriculture and industr\ ; that it natunili/:ed an cmI until then unknown in Spain,
a elabs of useless annuitants who should live in opulenc- and idknesson the lalioiirs of
their fellow-citizens; aiul that after having held u]) to public hatii d all exelusive privi-
leges, it carried on itself the most odious of monopolies.
What furnished a pretext for the last accusation, was a grant wiiich the bank of St.
Charles oljtaiued soon after its esiablishment, for the exclusive exportation ol piastres.
This nionc} it is well known is employed to pay the balance of accounts due from Spain
to the other nations ol" Kurojic.
The exportation of 'piastres for this purpose cannot be dispensed widi. In less eri-
lightimed times the Spmish ministry concei\ed the idea of turning it to advantage '
VOL. V. ri i.-
•1,.-I
il n L' n f; 0 A N N E S (U A \- 1 1, i I N 1. 1' A I N .
lu iruTCMsc tli(j rcAciuic o\' tin; state, such ixportation was suhjccicd to a duly ol thrct
piT ccut. \vl)i( II, ill 17r)8, was augniciuc d to lour, and alllunigh ilu- luinistcrs arc now
convinced that it i'lonly an additional tax on their own traders, to whom foreigners sell
their i^oods lour per cent, dearer, the state ol" Spanish lliiances, and, periiaps, tl»e re
mains ol' an attachment to old prejudices, have not yet jKrmitted them to take it oR',
'i'he conse(|ueiK:e is, that the duty ijiin;^ sulliciently hi|,di to give templi'»ion to snmg
jj,lin}4-, it is eluded in e\tr\ shape, and although a sufVicient c|uantity be exported to co
ver the balaiux , the royal treasure is depri\ ed of a part of its duties thereupon.
'I'o remedx this inconvenience, the bank wished for the exclusive privilege of export
ing all the piastres necessary to discharge the balance due from Spain, and represented
that the grant would prevent the value of money from being increased, which must be
the necessaiy eonstcjuence of multiplied negotiations ; and diminishing the fraudulent
exportation of piastres, by an extraordinary vigilance, such as could not be expected
from the agents of government.
Its wish was granted and it was ordered, that to prevent the j)iastres from being frau-
dulently withdrauii out of the country, they should all |)ass b} the way of Bayoime,
and that those who should liave mone\- to send into foreign countries, should be oblig-
ed to lake bills from the bank.
In spite of numerous exclamations jiroceeding chii fly from private inter-.'sf, the bank
ijf Si. Charles was put in jjossession of its privilege in the month of Noven^ber 178G.
Tiie fu'st use made of it proved very advantageous to tlie subscribers. The return of
peace brought w ith it a proiligious quantity of piastres. The bank exported upw ards
of twenty millions in 17S1-, and die year following nearly twenty -two millions. 'J'he
revenue ilself gained by the new arrangement, 'J'he most ad\antagi ous preceding years
had not produced six million'i and a hall of rials; it received from it in 1784 upwards
of fifteen millions, and from sixtee; '(seventeen millions in 1785. The bandage then
fell from the eyes of ignorance ; malev(jle nee was dumb, and the bank triumphed. The
•single article of |)iastres affords twelve millions of rials as a di\ idend Xo the stockholders.
In the mean time the expiration uf t!ie contracts with goverimient for the victualling
of the army and na\ \ had put the bank in posse *>sion of these principal sources of its
revenue. Its di\ideiids were consequentl) enlarged by it. That of 1781., the first il
made, was nine and a half per cent.
The triumph of the bank w is the n c omplete, and as men in all countries ever pass
from one extrenu; to another, iiivctive Wiis soon changed into enthusia.-lic panig\ric.
'•'he bank took aehiuitage of thi i revoliilioii, to increase, at difl'erent times, th.e sluires
xvhich it had yet to dispose f)f, and fhus 'hablc itself to increase future dividends. The
fVrnienlation re;i(Iieel linign kingdoms, which were then much addicted to slock joljb-
ing. In a little time the shares (A' the bank rose in France, Geneva, and other places to
liOlO rials ; and the Si)unianJs, luiving less faith or more Ibresigiu than foreigners, en-
couraged this inconsiderate ardour.
It was, however, but momentary, although it lasted long enough to produce perni-
cious revolutions in several fortunes. Some persons took upon them to oppose the pre-
dilection it had excited. Mirabcau particularly, that insurgent of public opinion, as he call-
ed himself, with an energy too natural to him, attacked the bank of St. Charles. He
even wrote a thick volume against it, in which lie was prodigal of his malediction, pre-
dicted the most baneful consequences to its proprietors, and loaded its author with inno-
cent invectives. He affirmed, that great commercial nations had reason to fear lest their
subjects, who had great capitals, should embark too much of their property in the bank of
St. Charles, as they had need of all their aid to lighten tiie burden of their own debts;
iioi;u.-,o.\ SSI.
I'liAVi: r. 3 IS r, PAIN,
'I ]S
ty ol thrci
rs arc ii()v\
ipi;ncr.s sell
l^s, t!»c re
L- it off.
n to smug
rtcd to CO
).
ol export
X'prcsL'nli'd
l» must In'
iVaiicluleiit
expected
jeiiig frau-
Hayonne,
;1 be oblig-
^ the bank
nber 1783.
e return of
d upwards
ons. The
•ding years
M upuLirds
indage then
phtd. The
oekiiolders.
victualling
urces of its
the first it
> ever pass
panegyric,
tb.e shares
lends. Tiie
>tock jobl)-
r places to
igners, en-
luce pcrni-
sc the pre-
1, as he call -
larles. He
ction, pre-
• with inno-
ar lest their
the bank of
)\vn debts;
.aid that indi\i{hia!.s who exposed their fortiUKs in ',o lur/ardfius ;u. fntii prise, ai 'ed lilvC
bad citizens as nii'mbers of society, and lik« niadiuenas fathers (>fr;inilies,
'J'lie court of.M.idrid, in June 17M5, proscriliid tlie puI)lieoti(jn, init this proscription
did not pre\( nt the work from iiaving ( IVeet. Thi' ( iitlnisiasni of I nnch jaf/ck-jobbers
alxiled, and never alur n \ iverl. A great |)arl of the simrcs of il,< bimk, originilly ^.old
to foreign eonntrits, ha'.e returned t') Spain. The iliree,t(ir-> nf tlie ( stabli-,lnnent r ■
deemecl thirty tiionsand shares in 1787 ami 17'i8, so that at j.re^i nt there ;.v i.o n\i:vi-
than one hundred and twenty thousand in eireulation.
Fotir years after its found. iti)n M. C.ibarrus projected n mw source of prrdit I>y t'on-
nceting it w iih the Philippine Compaiiy. ol' which he had just laid the fn'st .tone. He
induced the stockholders in I7H.>, to add to the funds of the eoinpany the sum (.1' iwenf) -
one millions of rials, deducted Injnithe dividend of l'I^)\. \\"luiti\er may l;i; the i-.siie
of this new institution, this p;;rtuershij) cannot at any rate be prejudicial to the I'nnd-, (f
the bai.k.
The epoch of the iniatuail'.n which it caused is gone by, probably never to fLlurn,
that of its aspersion should also be pi-issed, the ()iil)lic (jpinion with respect to it appearii'.g
now to be settlid. It is dear, in spite of the authority of Mirabeau, that w ithout ceasing
to be a good citi;:en (jr a good filher of a I'amilv a man may buy stock in the bank ol'
St. Charles; since it may be coiisidi red as firmly established, ha'.ing overcome the
storms which threatened it in its cradle.
Since 1785 almost all its meetings ha\e been tumultuous. Lerena, who at that epoch
became minister, began his career by manifesting his antipathy against its institutor ; he
intrigued against its former managers, and displaced them in a scancKilous mannei', sub-
stituting their enemies instead ofihem. Me took away from the bunk dieir commission
for victualling the army and navy, which, according to treaty, they possessed a right t(»
three years farther, and the ])rofns of w hich miglit have rei)aired the losses arising from
niisfortunes of previous \ ears ; and gave the management (jf it to the Oremios, who had
long impatiently waited for revenge'. So many proofs of malevolence discredited the
shares to such a degree, that towards the eiul of 171' I they scarcely sold for 1800 rials,
dividends included.
The animosity of Iao na did not end here. Jealous of the credit and success of M.
Cabarrus, whom he looked upon as a dangerous rival, and irritated by the incautious lan-
guage which the latter allowetl himself wlien speaking of him, he obliged him by his
vexatious conduct to resign his situation in 1790, as perpetual director of the bank.
Shortly alter, having intercepted a letter of insignificant conseejuence, which he had ad-
dressed to one of his correspondents, he made it a pretext for arresting him. His deten-
tion lasted more than five years, and Lt rena, as capable of nourishing as he was calculat-
ed to excite hatred, carried with him to th.e tomb the satisliiction (jf leaving his victim in
prison. Hij successor M. Ciardorjui had an injury left him to repair. ^Vhe;her for want
of credit, whether owing to the tardiness, which however left room f(v d)sagre*eable iti-
terpretations, he was not ready in fulfilling this dutv-. The case of M. Cabarrus under
went those dilatory forms which are but too eommo;i in Spain, and which se.'cret male-
volence possesses many means to procrastinate. At length, in the course of 1725, he
obtained a late but brilliant retri!)ution. Ht: was ab'^olved from all the charges against
him, reinstated in all his aj^pointmenis, and authoiised lo prosecute the heirs of his perse-
cutor for die damage which his fortune had suHered frou' his long detention.
Smce 1796 M. Cabarrus has undergone great vicibsitndes. He was l.onoured with
the title of count ; resumed almost ail his prisunv inlUience over the bank of St, Charles,
which was his offspring. In a meeting where he was present, it was engaged that all
;3 K 2
1.JU
HOI IK.OANNE S 1I;\\J.I,:. IN a I' A 1 N .
animositUs aiuj prosecutions should cc;<s».-. By intimacy with tiic prince of the peace
he reco\ ercd a part of liis credit, and diis siii)renie minister condescended in measure to
take counsel ol' him in the nonniiation of two persons to the ministry, who where more
indebted to j)ublic opinion than favour.
The count d^ Cabarrus was afterwards cntn 'vd with some external missions of con
.>,e(]uene.e. Oi; his return to Spain, his enem , had given out that certain conncction>
he had at Paris rendered iiim a pr(JiKr persoi\ to be emplojed in the principal enjbass\
which Spain was then about to lill.
He was conse(juently appointed a'Mbassador to France. When on his way to occupy
this new character, it was remarked to the executive directory, that beinj^ born u French-
man, he could not represent a foreign power in his own country ; and his appointment
AN as not accepted.
This was an allVont to him; it \vi\s made the subject of blame ; from that period his
credit declined, which was succeeded by a species of disgrace. After travelling for some
lime, returning to Spain, he foimd Uiat his enemies had taken advantage of his absence.
He soon saw that a philosophical retreat was what Ixfitted best his situation, and in con-
se(|uence retired to an estate some leagues distant from Madrid, where he has given him-
self up to agriculture and establishments of industry, hut let us return to the bank of
St. Charles.
Fifteen yeais after its foundation, it was in a far different condition to what it was at
its beginning. It was to have been entirely independent of the government : it is totally
under its controul. The court has appointed a conservatory judge, and has the greatest
influence in the nomination of its directors. During the war with France its shares
scarcely produced 1500 rials, although if one of the late years be excepted, it has con-
stantly distributed a dividend of 6s. bid. 5, or at least 4J per cent. ; a circumstance
scarcely credible, if the diminution of its sources of profit be taken into consideration.
It discounts but few bills of exchange, its external payments on account of government
may be looked upon as next to nothing, the provisioning of the army and navy has been
taken away from it entirely, and little remains by which any considerable profits can
accrue to it beyond the ex[)ortation of piastres.
Such is the bank of St. Charles, so much more famous than it lias deserved to be. It
lias neither justified tlic pompous promises of its founders, nor the sinister predictions
'){' its enemies. But it must be allowed that all things considered, it has produced more
advantage than inconvenience. It has electrified many heads which seemed destined to
stupidit}'. It has developed and put in activity talents which were not si spected ; and
has thrown into circulation much treasure w hich laid idle and unemployed.
This naturally leads to our saying a ^q\v words on the circulating medium, and coins
of Spain.
It is not easy to ascertain exactly the amount of the currency in Spain. It has, within
its dominions, mines which produce all the metals of which its coins are made. Staci:)
ed coins do not leave America without piiying an impost ; a second is paid upon their
importation into Spain, and a third upon their export thence to foreign countries. It
should seem from this, that by attention to the custom-house receipts it were easy to
ascertain the existing circulation within the country. But of this money manufactured
in the Spanish colonies, a great part is smuggled direct to different parts of Europe:
another is crrried avay in a clandestine manner, for payment of foreign merchandise,
before it touches a Spanish port, and lastly, as re-coinage is not common in Spain, suf-
ficient data are wanting to determine the amount in the country with any nicety.
H()Ui;i,OANNl. ;> 1 It A \ i. r. S IN -^VAlS,
.) I
A short time before his death, Miisqiiicz, \\h()h;icl been cinploved in the liiuinr.e de.
partmcnt cither as liead clerk or minister for tu'ciity years, hud ii'jteven as^iiessas tothi
amount. He acknowledged this in my presence before some Spaniards more enlight
ened than liimsclf, and it uas in consequence of the discussion which took place on this
occasion that I obtained information that the currency amounted to about eighty njillion>
of hard dollars. S|)ain was at that time engaged in an expensive uar, and had not then
made the ruinous attack on Gil)raltar. She has since been elFecting, or preparing certair
military operations, the consequence of which has been an extraction of capital without
the country, which has not entered it again. In the war (notwithstanding its extreme
shortness) which she waged with France, she has experienced losses which arc not re
paired for years, and in the succeeding one with England, all her means of prosperity be
ing suspended, she cannot fail of having become still more embarrassed. Thus, althougli
her commerce has been more extensive since 1782, and the produce of her mines be
greater than before, her efl'ective money may yet be deemed no greater than at that period.
Perhaps it may appear surprising, that Spain, in possession of almost all the mines of sil-
ver, and a great proportion of the gold mines, should be reduced to so trifling a currency,
particularly when one recollects, that at the time of Charles V, she was in possession oi"
almost all the gold and silver in Europe, and (what is of infinitely more value) of the
means of existing without intercourse with other states ; from the fertility of the soil, and
her abundant employment for the industry of the nation.
How is it that, in less than a century, this kingdom has fallen from this state of splen-
dour ■? To what is so rapid and complete a revolution to be attributed ?
To many causes, and firstly, to the abundance of its precious metals which have in-
creased the price of commodities, and the wages of workmen.
To the decline of its manufacturers, which was the consequence; to itsdc])opulation,
caused by the numerous emigrations to America; and the expulsion of the Moors and
Jews.
It may also be more particularly attributed to the ruinous wars undertaken by Philip
II, against the low countries, and which from the year 15G7, to the truce in 1612, cost
upwards of two hundred millions of piastres.
But let Spain enjoy some years of peace, let her government second the venerable dis-
position of modern Spaniards for all useful enterprises, she will then no longer see the
greaterpart of her circulation withdrawn to pay her balances to foreign industry, and re-
ceive in other countries of Europe the stamp of other sovereigns.
The first coin, as well gold as silver, which was struck in Spanish America, was
clumsy in its shape as well as its impression, wliich on one side was a cross, and on the
other the arms of Spain. Some of it is still in circulation.
The impression varied until the year 1772, when a new coinage took place, in which
the head of the sovereign was struck on one side, and on the other the arms of Spain on
an escutcheon.
We are now about to give an exact prospectus of the different kinds of gold and silver
coin stamped in Europe and America.
.\NCIENT COINS NO LONGER STRUCK IN THE DOMINIONS OF THE KING OE
SPAIN, BUT WHICH ARE CURRENT.
COLD COINS. Their vulr.e.
The piece of 4 pistoles, unmilled, onza cortada - 321 rials C marav.
4 piece ditto, medea onza cortada - - - 160 20
golden unmilled pistole .... gO 10
J golden unmilled pistole - - . . 40 B
JL
rnnsm
.i:,8
Hoirur.oAN Nr'r, inAvr.ii iv oivviy.
'I'his is tlu- value of c;ich of ihcsc pieces in £;eneriil, hut as their sh;ipe rciulcrs tlkn.
suscxptihle of 1h( otuini^' worn without its appearin|:«;, thiy are oiih' takdi ac,c()riMi'<j; to
weii^ht. They eamiot therefore he preeisely vahied in Krciieh iiiui.ey, nor ean the exact
quaiititv of pure i^okl which they contain l)e noted.
There are as well ^olcl coii\s of each of these denonii-iatinns, which althonp;h milK il arc
vet weight (1 upon tlu ir heint-- t.iken. They are distint-mishi d hy having a cross on tin ni
in lieu of the king's image.
c.o'iA) milli:d coins no i.oNtii.u issuLD siNi;]: \ri
Names il" ihr Ci)in.
Value
Kiij^lish N'a'iii"
ExcImiij;!' ;it V'hI.
The 4 pistole piece milled, coined before 1772, ;321 rials G mar.
The \ piece of 4 pistoles ditto - 160 20
The 'pistole, do. . - - 80 10
^ pistole, do. ... 40 .'►
SILVKR COIN NO LONtiT-R STKL'CK.
1
0
0
13
If)
p
./.
1'>1
5-1
n \
i) -t
41
The old unmillcd piastre,
I Ditto do.
old pe'/.elta
I do. do.
Tlie old milled piastre with two globes on it
crowned, of the same value as the other,
and the new coin,
The i d(j. ....
20 rials
10
5
2
^ These four pieces arc
I in the same p.redica-
>ment as the four
* gold umuilled nit,--
1 , mur. I ^ '
J CCS.
20 rials
10
COINS OF THE NEW STAMP GOLD COIN.
Xiimts of ihc Coin.
Valr
Value in stcuiiii;^. Money.
Esclianj^c ut 40(1.
The Quadruple, called in Spain doblon de >
aocho, and vulgarly medulla, 3
.V Quadruple or media onza,
E\ dolMon de oro, or golden pistole
Kl medio doblon de oro,
The ducat, reintcn, called vulgarly du ito
SILVER COIN.
320 rials.
160
80
40
21
8 mar.
/;•
.V.
(/.
3
6
8
1
13
4
0
16
8
0
8
A-
0
4
5
Names of the Coin.
Value.
Value in slerlinjTf.
Kx, at t'Hl per iiiaHlns
20 rials
10
5
2
0
0
0
0
4
2
1
(J
2
I
0!
5
The hard dollar peso duro,
I dollar medio peso duro,
La pcztta columnaria,
La media pezeta columnaria, orbit
Kl rcalito columnurio, or quarter, pezeta > ^ 81 mar. 0 0
columnaria, - - S
Note, these three latter pieces are only struck in America. They are milled, and bear
on one side the arms of Spain, on the other two globes survnoimted with a crown and
placed between two columns.
31
am
JJOUKGOANNE ii IRAVtl.U IN i I' A I N .
A.)V
Namfs I. f tilt Coin.
5\
HI
41
four
pic
4
8
4
2
1
0!
5
3 J
La peseta
La media ju >;ita, or rial dv la Plata
El rcalitf), or rial dc billon
COIM'KUMONKY.
The piece of two cjuat tus
quarto
octavo
mara\ edi
^"'"- ^:l
lU: III sti rli
40(1. per I)
lusU'i;
/-■•
V.
r/.
4 rials
0
0
10
3 do.
0
0
5
34 marav.
0
0
2i
ti'i marav.
0
0
0},:
41
0
0
01^
. 2i
0
0
or.
I
0
0
0/.,
Few proceed from the mint
The greater part of the gold coins are struck in America,
at Seville.
Those of silver which are stamped in Spanish America have for distinction on one side
the Spanish arms between two pillars, and on the other, a pjarland (jf laurels round the
eftigies of the sovereign, as if to denote that the kings of Spain are tlie comjuerors of
America.
Those struck in the European mints only bear the shield without jjillars, and the like-
ness of flic king wilhout a garland.
There are many mints in IVru. The best known is that of Potosi. There is one at
Santa Fe de Bogota, one at St. Jago de Chili, and one in Mexico. From the latter is
issued the greater ])art of the dollars w hi(;h are current in luiropc.
Each mint has its distinguishing mark ; that of Mexico has a capital M surmounted
w iih an o.
There are but three in Spain ; those of Madrid, of Seville, and of Segovia. The dis-
tinction of the first is capital M crowned, that of the second an S, and that of the
third a little atpieduci of three stories ; but for many years the mint of Segovia issues
none but copper coin.
There is besides ideal mone\ in Spain, some of which are monies of exchange : these
are,
The simple pistole, or doubloon, worth four common piastres, and, at 40d. the piastre,
\3s. 4d.
The peso, called also peso sencillo, to distinguish it from the peso fuertc, worth 3s. 4^d.
The scudo de vellon, an ideal moiuy emplo}ed in computing the revenues of The
crown; it is worth ten rials, or half a hard dtjllar, 2s. Id.
The ducal, another imaginary money which ser\ es tor reckoning the revenues of in-
dividuals, aicid \vorrh eleven rials, or 2s. 3^d.
We shall say nothing of certain other ideal monies peculiar to different provinces
such as la libra of \'alentia, Catalonia, &c.
Spain has been tolerabl)' constant in her abstinence from changing the standard of
money, convinced that the slightest variations, the least mistrust on this head, would
have a dangerous effect on operations oi coninierce in general, which draws from the
Spanish possessions the greatest part of tlie metals it empio) s. Nevertheless in 1737,
the court of Madrid, ha\ing(jbservid that the great piastre had only a value proportioiK d
to the difference w hich then existed between the gold and silver coin, increased it to twenty
rials. The equilibrium intended to Ijc est^ljiished between these two metals was again de-
stroyed, the ^'alue of gold being no longer in proportion to its abundance, Tiurc was too
great an advantage in exporting it in preference ic silver; so that if Spain had not ap-
plied a remed} , she would in the end h.tvc ijren wholly depfived of that metal. Govern-
ment, therefore, thought proper in 1779 U, ^id a i»i.\teenth jAirt to the lormer nominal
^m
Ui)
UOi;iK;r»ANN'E's lUAvrrri iv sr.\t\.
viiluo of thi' f^'old coin, without chanjii^inp; the \\ti;;ht or staiuliird. \\y ihis opcriitioii,
the (niach'iiplc, or dcjhloii dr aocho, which before was worth but liftci n iifrc at |)iastres, was
ineriascd to sixttcn, and all the other f^o'd pieces in proportion. 'I'hc uatioiis which
possess preci(jus metals i^ive la\\ s to the rest with respect to the standard ol tlv ir nioiu y ;
and th(jse who do not ibilow them must sooner or later l)e the victims oj'their obstinacy.
This just ()bser\ ation, eonstanti) eontirnied by experience determined f)ur ministry short
ly alti r to increase the valtii' ol gold coin without altering; its (l<.nomination.
There is in Spain a so\erei;j;n court which regulates and decides alTiirs relative to coin,
under the title oi'ieal junto decommercio, moneda, minas, &cc.it iscomposedof one mem-
ber (-I'thc council of Castile, two of tiiat ol" the Indies, and some of the menibers of the
council of linanee ; and is as imlependent in its circle us tiie other sovereign coimciis
of the monarchv.
CH.Vl'TKR I\.
i')LN«ii, nv u,\u, \.M> IIS Mrmiii IIS. Nuii'iAHv HANK, or iiii- ddki; m; tnii.i.uN. i.m av
lUV. Ml'.IHOU 01 III C UVIilNd. ({UlNl AS. MIMIIA. CAVAI.KY. SC A llC I P V O K (.OOD II()USI.t..
All rii.ii.u V. i.Mii: i.Kus. .miluaiiy i.nui: a i ion. of coum o'kfm.i.v. Miinxiiv iik.waiiijs.
'J'lIK council of war is at the same time a tribima! and a permanent board of military
administration; the king cf)mmonly consults it on issuing orders relating to his troops.
Until ih( reign of IMiilip V, this council appointed the superior military officers. Hut
the Bour!)on familj', laying aside by degrees every impediment that hindered the exer-
cise of power, assumed this ])rirogative of the council of war. The king names to all
military employments, U|)on the presentation of the inspector of tach army. The in-
.".'[>=: "tors adojjt military measures on many occasions without the interposition oi' the
council of war ; but, for the sake of form, such as are taken without its concurrence re-
ceive its sanction. Thus it was, that our parliaments rcgi.stcrcd generally without de
mur tlu edicts of the king. Sometimes indeed they i)retended a shadow of opposition
to his will, liut even this feeble restraint to arbitrary power is beyond the force of the
council of Si)ain. Despotism there is neither irritated nor provoked to excess by any
lawfvd o!)staele. There is no rallying point against it. If it be but moderate, in spite
of predictions, it may yet endure for a length of time.
The chief fui'ctions of tiie council of war arc, to administer justice to those who arc
in a military capacity, and bring their causes before that tribunal. It is divided into
two chambers, or salas, the sala de govienio, and the sala de justicia. The former is
especially cmj))oyed in matters of administration. It has for counsellors the inspectors,
who are the most ancient captains of the bod}- guards, and the oldest of tiie two colonels
of die guards.
The sala de justicia is confined to litigations. If parties are dissatisfied with its de-
cision, they may require the other chamber to be joined to it to examine the cause anew.
According to treaty, the causes of strangers arc carried bv appeal to the council ot
war ; and foreign nations who have intercourse and connexions with Spain, particidarly
tlie French, derive great advantages from this tribunal, the e(]uity of which is rarely
prevented by national prejudices; without being more aciessible dianthe others to the
solicitations of favour or corruption, it appears to Ijc much more oj)en to reason. In
my frequent transactions with it I have had great room to udmiri its wisdom and justice;
and could wish, that, for the interest of our commerce, tlie citizens \>t France may
always preserve its members for supreme judges.
;iOI'U«.0.\ N M. :. IUA\I.l,.. IN :.rAIN.
11
The hif^hcst niilll;iry rank in Spjiu is th;>t orcaptaiii-gxiKral ; uhiclf is cfjual to tliaf
if marshal of Fraiic<', and not iiKoni|).ilil)Iu with il ; since th(sc hnnnnrs wen- vniitcd
in liie ptrson of niaishal Hcrwirk. Tiiis |)r(.Hrni<'nt is not easily fjinaincd in Spain,
It was conlinid in 1785 totwn persons in the aiiny, tlie countdt Aiandii aiul the diiki
dc Crillnn. At the; end oi' 17i'.) there were ten, ihne of \\hi(h had Ixen reccnth
created ; this nnniber was shortly after reduced to nine,'* by the death oftlie <on(|ncror
oI'Mahon. His posterity is now in existence. WUit will it say of him ? His lainil>
will loti}^ speak ol' tlu- (jnalities ol' his heart, iiis friends of those amiable points which
cansed his sociei} to be courted, ande.\rused lluf trilling follies naturally conse'incnt o!.
a lively temper and an easy character. ;\s for history, it will y,.\y, Crillon ni<rited dv
title wliich lor ai^eshad bun an apendai^e tolTis name, Iw \\as a brave man not on siK h
a day r.lone but ( onstantly. Me had had a Iouj; experii lue, but less prjssibly of the niili
tary art than (jf the dangers of war. He was :ic{i\c and indefaiii^able, By his humane
disposition, by hisenf^af^inirinid familiar manners Uc conciliated tlu' minds of the soldier}
His example recommended to them, at the s ime time, bnth true com'ai^e and Lcai* t) .
He was brilliantly Ibrtiniale in ha\ injr, liki- the Cardinal de Kichelie-.i, i tVected tlu' cap
tnrc of a fortress that had been deemed impreirnable, althoiijjfh he failid before aiunluv
which experience lias staukpeduilh that character. If he was the sport <jfthe p.issioiis
of his satellites, and pirhapsof his own, he yit, at least, displayed that encr};eti;.' conitancy,
that pertitiacify, wlTkh K\elsand oNcrcotnes all obstacles. In tlu- military memoirs
which he has left Ixliind him, without bcin^- aware of it, he has faithfully delineated hi>-
(jwn character; in then) precept is suppr)ried by exanijile, his frank lujiiesty is dislin
s^uishable, his undisguised benii^iiity, and even the pleasing disorder of itis fmcy.
Next to the captains- general, rank, as in I'rance the lieutenants-general, field mar
r.hals, and brigadiers ; Oiree classes (jf general ufliecrs w liich the war w ith Irancc caused
the number oi to be greatly augnjcnted.
In 1788 Spain had lorly-seven lieutenants-general. In 1796 as many as one himdred
and thirty-two. At present tliere are mi more than eighty-one. The number of field-
marshals in 1788 was sixty-seven; in 1790, one hundred and sixty. At present there
are one hundred and twenty-six.
In 1788 the Sjjanish infantry consisted of forty-four regiments of two battalions each,
w ithout including the Spanish and Walloon guards, each containing four thousand two
hundred men, in six battalions. Of these fourty-fourrtgiments thirty-fi\c were Spanish,
two Italian, three Flemish, and four Swiss.
One of the Italian regiments has Ixen disbanded, so that there now remains only the
Neapolitan regiment.
The three Flemish regiments, called the Little Walloons (Flanders, Brussels, and Bra-
bant) have been incorporated into the nation;il regiments.
The Swiss regiments have been increased from fom- tijsix.
The national regiments have been augmented l)y fourteen new ones, two of which,
the volunteers of Terragona and of Girone, were created in 1792, and tin- twehe others
during and since the war w ith France.
The eighty -eight battalions in 1788, at six hundred and cigluy-fonr men each, woiUd
have made the infantry amount to ()0,192. However I freeiuentl) ht.irdir rejieated,
during my first residence in Spain, that there were scarcely 30,000 in actual ser\ ice.
• Ai the end of 1801 only tcvcn remained, incliitiini!; tlu- tn-oshcr-in-law of tin i)iii\f«.' < I ilu pcun.,
ihc marquis di- liranrilati-, but exclusive orhiiii niadi- supi-rior, even to ihr (;n|)l,an-t;t'mi'.il. iliruiii^li
the favour of the king, u'lder the litlt of j^jcniralisbiino ol tlic arniv.
VOL. V. 3 I
l-\2
rx/i m;'!,' vvl
1 II ,\ VJ I,;. IN .1' A IN.
Til. l:iM u.ii (li iii'Misti.Utd. ilr.it ii was r'.ipaljlc ol _L;ivall\ imTui^iu}!: i viu \\\> Ibriiu f
iiiuiil>' r.
A shdii limt pr( \i(jus lo ilu iK ila'-aiioii u[ u;a', .i lu w Iniiu uas nivtii to llic Spanisli
iiilar.tiv. V.mU n^iimiUwas composiil ol'tliriv liattalions, luool' uhich took llu rKJil,
and our nmaiiinliii jAanivm. '■(•rvin^-as a li poi lor rumi^KiiiK riciuit>, and d(.ii("ki;( ii ^
;iii:iiiiiji,' ill tlu' two ollui-. l"l;< t\\r» Ih-it slnmld !»a\i 'aih live <.'on>i).iiii(.s ot 177 im ii
larli, OiR' (>r ulncli u;ivn.idii is. and anotliti- clias'-i iii-'f. Tluir «;oin|)knKnt in pi.ari.
was 7un, and ' ' >v;ir »()() nun i;:( Ii. On uw arrlxal in Spain in 17'J2, this nt. \\ I'l'-
U'lilation had 1 "cnllN skcK. hid out, and only one rtL-fnumt, at that tin\i', h:id a
third iKiit.'.liiin. .greater pari (.I'th' v n -iniiius at the ljiii,inninL,f ol the war \\irt
(oniposul ol'siMiiov 11)00 or llOOimii. In a urialniindnr, thr lir«,t hattali'iii coidd
not Ik- carried to ns conipit iiKiit of 800 nun, without dislnrnishin;; the ranks oi ihi.
other two. 'I'lu l)aitaii(>ns si i»r to the IronliLrs ( onipriscd lour coinpaniis ol' iniis-
ouiKcrsor ICiO null t-ach, ami one ol' !;rciiadi> r-> ol' 120, total 7(')0.
I'iach conipaii) in the Si)anish ixgiinuits had a captain, with the jjcace appointnietii
ol' V!)0 rials jur iuonth ; ii Hist lieiittiiant with 100, a second liiuteiKint with MO. and
111 eiisi;;n \".ith 2.')0 rials per month. 'I'lu re win two tn.-)i,y;iis in the I'ureiL^n rej^inu nts.
Much soldiei recei\( d 11 ipiarlos p( r ditm (about S.Ul.) out ol'uhicli two wen
'cliiiiied lor liniuaiid ?^h(j(.s, si vui loi their mess, and two I'orollu r necessaries. Tlie}
wcrcnew clothed t.\ir\ \h'm\ niondis, and i'\er_\ lll'iu n itionthsa new pair of shoes, two
jiair of stockini'.s, and two shiri;i w en delivered iheni.
It i>';',sil\ i.crceivahlc, that in war these allowances inu^l lun^saril} he i:,rcater.
ir the two lira battalions of the forty- four nginients had heui complete, Spain would
ua\e had an arniv ol' 70,000 iiitn , hut they were very far iVom lieiii'^- soin \','J2. At
the In .niniiiiiiL;, oi' the war, and i\in hel'oie, every method thai could be lhoiii;Iit o;
I'er lilliiiL;- up tlu; dill'en lU eomiilemeiits was aiiojUed, and twehe additional n|^'inunts
vserc i'orJiKd. U' then we add to the lirsl ni'iitioned 7(.t,0eV) men the streni^th of the
iwelve new rei^imeiits ol' 11', 200, the ;i(^000 militia, and tlie « 100 ol' Walloon {guards,
Spain w ill have had in arms 127,(i(jO infantry, but as well as that ih.e i^ivater part of
these reii,iineiit>, cnuld not !)c filled up to the war < omplement, a consideraljlc deduc-
tion is necessai) far the- i^-arrison of Madrid, and to s^uard diiieicnt i)la'i s in the intc
rior : so that ll.e greatest arm\ Sjiain at any time had L. tlie field could not have ex
eetdid i:'»,00O iniantiA , not iiicludiiiij-, howe\er in liiis iiun!!;er iiO,0()'t peasaiiU which
\i 1... ainud, and incorporated 1- i the M.r\iee of The campaii;-!! of 171^^.
It is not long since a p.ai i oi this iniaiiuy w:,^ abniad. Jn 17e2 thirt}-. ■.!."•; b-i'lahoii-
■.en inAnurie;.. Siiu e thai tiini. pa rmapuii i -i-ps !ia\ e Ini-n i '-:..bli vn d li,e-iv, and
it die close of 17'J2 tj.tie wire seanxly an_\ biifialions on' of f'airni e. ! "-aN ii(>liiingoi
;iie pia<!s wiiich Sprain possesses on t'.ie coast of Miica. Ciula, Alililla, i .1 Pee.on, and
Alhucimas; these places, know n undir the name of Afiiean I're.'/idencies. .''.iin a dii^iiiiaa
'.';o\t riiment, a;:d an mainlained by trooiis in Icaiging to the Kun)pean army.
'I'lie nuiius ol recruiting this a.rmy are \er}- confined. 'J'lie Spanish nation, b;,.\e :is
It is, has loi some time had a dislike to the foot ser\ice. I'.a.ch rtgimenl finds a diili-
; uliv in procuring men; the c'jloiirs are rai>,id in places in which it is sujtpi.sed most
dupes and libertiius are asMinbled, and thus, as in l''niiiee, the reginu nl^ are formid
by thi diM.idus ol sccletv. The soldiers of our regiments, imj)ellLd by their iiicon-
btanc) to pass the frontiers, used to lake ad\antage of the gorgx s of tjie Pyrenees to
desert and ( ngage tlieinsi Ives to Spaiii-h rtcruilers. Foreign regiments in the service ol
Spain Were reeruiled at theexpence of ours ; and as da Spaniards are void of that rest
K.ssnesh which characterises tlieir neighbours, and indiiixs them to wander U) i. \ery par'
f'.ot'tl'.o \ V VI '; I i: \ > Kl. i IN .1 s I V
I I.
innnir
iVC Tib
(lilli-
■ I tli('!;l()l»^ , ;iii(l hrsidi sihc I'luich .ii'iiiv iHiiirj; miltli moi'i- i-oii'^itl. i\ii),v Una Ui..! n!
S[)iiiii,:ill till iiicouM [lit IK ( ol I'll' proviiiiitv ()!' till' i\.,|nctivr jj-arrisoiis wii.s ;»ii (In >i(|<
of tilt In (I'll, luiic'.' ilu: (. met ul' .Sl.idiitl luii Inui .olii itid in \m1;i to inLiliiiAli a cirti;
lor ri'fipicK.illy "ivini^Mip (IcscrlciN ; all thai il wtnikl iibLi.ii to uas, thai (.'acl; ^Ii'tuld iv
•inre tin: anus, lioi-sis and haj^'t^ai'V (ifdi scrtirs.
It. is tnic iIkix is a 'iimnd tin ilim! of ivcruitiii';- tlic anil) v ilU'd iln; <iuiiil.is, wliii.Ii r.,
v.inl)U iiluclra\\in^;-inr tlu' luiliii i, I)Ml wliicli in Spain !>> p'-'tilcdy distinct, (juiii haviii^
I Nistciicc, tlic otic lor illlin|;-iii) tli'. c(»;ii|)airn s of then i^iilar troops, tlu' nihu lor tin; pro
\iii(;ial rciiitiinits. 'riicordiiiarao ol' ITo.i enact'., that lor the llrs', lots .'.juill l;ct!i.ivu;
ini'ach villa;;'! lor our ji. r'Min infuc; l)iit then tin; drawing;' ol' llic iniliiii shall In siis
|)Ln<K(l. This nudoubttdly is ilu; ( tyiiioI"(.'-_\ oftlKf woid (piinUis. \s it ah\a\s hap
|)i ns, thr thinii' i?< chaii(i'i d .md i!;i \', md n. iir.iiii'>. Thr (piinlas do n(-i. ai [ii./'.'. uU'i. tpin'^
■.() .U.'rcal a nninlKr; mid as ih'; pcopU ha\c on s^nu- irt'uit ix'ta'^i ms sIk v. ii ho.. ndimis
it was to ihnu, ;:,'o\i.rnnK nt ha'» ix course to this txpcdi mI omU in the last c U'l Miitv
She rcfraiiud liuiii cnforciii;;' ir in die .\inc!ic;i;i war, bin led rii onisc lo ii. tv icr. i'l dia:
with l'"ram.'i;.
Hcsidcs tlksc ri'L'.inu'iits ol inl'iniry Spain has i'ori\-l\\d of miiiiia. di 'iii)iif»,'ii' in tin
pro\inci s ol' dii- * i-own ol'C.astiK. 'riay at'*; ;;s;,i inl>lul only diniiif;'oni luoiilh in tlu.
\-car, in the piint ipal phu • ol'w l/u h thiy In >a' tl'n ii nu'. ; ;aid lor lh;;l tinu the tHii a is and
■olditrs rcciivi pa_\ , ll wiri mcdlcss to staU' thai lli' y a.ri- p.ild al>o in tinti' of war.
mIk'h they replace the re;.;nlar tro(jps in ^-'arriscais. oi- jom the army, ol' nhieh {\k\ cer
laiiily do not I'orni the least \ahiabh pan : this was sniiieit ntl_\ t\iiicedin da war \«ita
!•' ranee, w lu n eii;ht_\ -I'onr conii'anies ol' i^rui idiu's and li.^hl iiilantr_\ , (ajmiJilsiiig I'l, ")f)0
of tluii' nninlHr, wi re marched Im the Ironliu-s. In tinu' ol' peace, e\cej)tii!,v; their nio.nt!)
olasscndilin^, ihey ivniain in their \ illa;;-es and lollow ihtir re^pi cti\e {K-ciij)ati(,iis,
'I'Ikisc regiments ail consist of one siii|-;Ie hatlalinn ol VJO men, except that uf Majorca
v\ hich has two, and must alwaj s he coinpk H, ,S-i Sfi'l|f m U soldier ol' the militia "dies.
d(.scrts, orisdischari;ed, lots arc draw n in ihc Olli|f.'( m|u'((('L' 111 u as taken, lo replace him.
'I'hesc rei!;inuiiis ol militia have a partienlai- insl;( |!;|/)f*. Their ctjlonels are choae;!
from among the most distingnished gcntr} ol" the rflsti-jci j ujn] tluir ai|lh(irily is \er>
e.\teiisive o\er the nun. 'l'he\ l)a\e l|/( pr/HM' (jnndiuiiijr pimishments, and there Is
^^ "I
no appeal from tlitir sentences but to IIk 'Ml|)f, ,
war. V\w states in J'',iiroj/c ))a\e a belter ji j^lj
de.strvcdiv sustains the rcpntalJo)| /(/ jaj/fHI', i^H'
iKciljiislIj ((K'l
ll'dh/Ji
limy (lU (Hi I
at Ik ail, ahr
^!|H Ijti
'ii'# \>hii
ssll
|i |l|i diuin of the coniicil o{
jtlfjj of militia ; or whi.Jj inr,n,
Ij ijk natirjij.
m|"lif;l)"nt J'airop for tlieii' coo
ip ^lljljUirj |al)our, iali-ne,
mfntlTl f ■■?/»(! before (lihrailar,
I (jli last war (of*k revengt; on
The Spanish sfjldiirs ItJve long Jkcii jiisljj (( HlMin
and i)er.se\eriii.u eouragt , and the ji yjhUif) I uitli.**!
and lutnger. Those of our coin
d(J them <;omplete jnstiee on tin
them for their traiisitorj suectssc. in di' |||/ilsbl||i)|),' i||ii| i/ii the fjanksof tin f5id.'7ssoa,
suiruiently well understand the inUC(.i,ln) ||il j) j|Jo|» , \u al( m\ dial, on most oc';a-,ions,
the> met in the Spaniards with iiitlliies worth) I'j Uii jr i nurane.
Kven the onicers. respn ting w lipin wliik I uas |ii Spain 1 heard the most vexereii
marks, in the course of this war l|a\e ( oii.siitnth ''' ■ " - • ■ -■ - ■
\nd here let us ol)ser\e, that if tile Spaniards li
iminited to circumstances foreign p. tlielf c;haff|(;Ur. Courage ami miliiary talent'> re-
(piire almost continual aliment. A loag pea<;e iiiay eiiec.l a change in the mailial .spirit oi
the most \alourous nalion. ;\Md uaJiollgh Spain has taken ajnirt in all die war,-, of thij.
century, it ma_\ still he said, that, wmx- those ol' Italy terniinaied in 1 7 IH, her troops Inui
made no real camiiaigns. Th.^ Spaniards thciusehes prevuue umi ; , m'iv thisnime v
respM tingwiipin while I was ||i Spam 1 heard the most vexeren
of this war l|a\e ((i||.slitnt|_i( (iliiliilestcd both conrag. and tale lU:,.
r\e,that if tile Spaniards luue 'n am wa\ deLcncrated, ii i-, to be
)
mmmm
tit
UOlMU.i'A N Nf. •. lHWtl.. I.N 3 VAIN.
ila: shun w.ir With l'(MtiiK'ilt iiM\hi( h they t iu:oiit»tiTC(l l)iil tlu' ohsrark-s aiul httlc d.ui
i^cr. Thi «. xjHiliuutis t<» Algiers in 177 i, .iikI Hiu'm/i A\ris in i77<), wen- v)oii ciult <1
.iiul iillunK'd l)iit U\\ opjiortiiiuiks (or tin- (li>>iil.iy riihi r of conr.i^'r or».s(Hririif:v. Add
•ndiisii' .III ;i|)Ml(»^f\ lor till S|)iini>ih oHkh rs, thii thi-lill'thiy Ir.ul is oiilv cah iil.itcd u^
Au\n\\ ihk ii l.iridtu>. Ml ;>it (»r ihi if garrisons iiiv sfjhtary and ill proxid'd, widioiit re
•■.(Mircc iidiir I' r iiistriiilitjii or iiinoctut picasiius; the olHcxi-s have cither im Uavt o\
.iljMiiri', or s< Idomoht.iin it, ivm to n j^iiLitc thtir piiv.itc artair^.. It is iiiuIoii!»ti'dly u
nii.iii^ olniaUiiij^ I .((.lliiii tillici rs of ilios«. who arc obli^iil imiiittrniptally to .ititiid lu
\\h durusol'tluir jjioHssioii. lint man has always lucd ola sliinnlns totxiiitc him, ami
this nl)si HIT and moiiotonons hlV. iinrcTu vcd In any mana'iiMis on a ^land soak-, l»v
.tn\ larm .ism mhla^i s, liuisln s in [.inilv /.ini^-all activity, or divirts the mind to iinproiui
objttts. It h;'.s iH^ult^ liu iiK'oiiMnii iu:c of rciukriii)^ tlii' si rvir.c kss ik>ir(!)k, and
istipin^- IVoni n ihosr to whom a small rorinne or a lilu'ral fdnc.itifjn ufli is othir resonr
CCS. TUv S,>aiiis!i arin\ houiM i has latclx niuKrj^onc an a(|\.inlaj;tonN n iorm in this
rtsput. 'TIk (litlciriil slIiooIs th.it h.ivc hienislaMisiud. Jnrni^li it will) p'.rsons cl'dis-
iii!^ni>.hid ,il)ilitirs. .\ m.irti.il spirit h.is Ikimi awaki luil in tin noliiliiv ol tlu' lirst dis^
tiiution, who nnliraci' iIk liiokssion of arms; and sitinc of its mi'ml>(.r»i, rrnomicinfr
tin- pkasurcs and idli lu is of the capital, ;.!;av( tluir ( (inntrv mm dnriii}^' the hsX war tx
ainplis oI'drNotinn and conra.ijc wuriliy ol' imitaiicjii.
\ll 1 have iniid ol' the inlaniry is appiicablt to the other (orps oi'tlic Spanish army. It
has < iji;hl reij;imc nts ol' driif^ooiis eonsistini; lacli of thn e sijn iclrons. The lu avy eavalrx
erjusisis oirointi i n ri;j,iniuits,iiKlndinL;- the hii^^ade ore.iraljineers e/l'fiiiecn Mary Lonisa.
raised in 17'.).^), and one of Si)anish hnss.irs lornird in ll'J't. Iksidcs these it has it
e.orps ol' ro\ al earaliiiKi rs whieh li.is a prrfet tly diU'ereiit or^^.mix.ation.
VamU lej^inunt ol" cavalry is coni])osvd of three stpiadrons, ( xeeptin;^^ two wliith ha^
lour; eaeh sijiiidnjn consistins; ol'KK) iiKn in jn lee, and 180 in time ol'war.
\\'ere tin ditl'rrcnt eorjjs 'onipkti', Sp.iin would have an army ol' 1 1,HK0 horse. I hav
hceii howiver .osured, thai in I77(i, at the approach ol" a war, wlii( h soon after took
place, she had no inon th.m Mono ilUeiiu' hor-.e. In time ol' pi'a i', the hea\_\ cavalry
.ind duigoons v.w l.irlroiu haviiiLi; their eonipkinent ol nun; and ulrhis reduced luimbd
HO are dismonnt' d.
The consvfpunce is, that the cavalrv is less aj^recahk than it otlurwisc wonld i)e to
i\v. Spaniards, !)ecan>-e the new recrnits rtinain three or loin- yei'.rs <jn foot, wailinj^ for
iheir inrn to ha\« sp.iie horse >.
How comes It that thv re exists so '^w.a a -.carcity ol' horii s in a coniitry, whicii. iinde:
I'iiilip l\', c(ndd have I'lirnislu d t;o,(KiO loi- ic.ilii.i'y service, .i coiUi;;:.',i "t to wliicli ai-
most all the provinces conld then have e<intril)nt'. d ; for Andalnsia was not tlic only ont
renowiiul lor the heaniy ot'its horses. Piin;, p: nsi s those ol'dallicia, and the Astnrias.
.Martial, those ol his province, .\rr,i;;on. ke. I' .r tli. r.uiltiplication ofnuiks has almost
mnihiiated the race ol'.U'^od horses in the tvo C',i>tia s, m tlu .Vstnrias, and Cl.illicia.
In order to obtain a lari^e nnndjer ol' these i:ide fati.^able animals whose utility and
k'nji;th ui' service more than e;()mpensatc their ni. .n aj)|)earance, the fmesl mares in t!r
kint^dom are exclusively set apart fr;r bivedinir them in every p.srt of Sp.iin. Notwith
-.t.indiiig this the supply is itisuflicient k)r the demand, vnIucIi is every dav incrcasinf;, sri
tiuit Arragon, Navarre, and Catalonia are supplied by a lesser species from some of the
French provinces. The number imported is so consiek r.ible that it may hv fairly rated
at 20,000 annuaUy, without dant^er of cxiiggeratioii. It is evident that the extravai^ant
midtiplication of mules is the cause of the det^enera? y of horses, in the i;reatcr part C
Moi;il'.< \ N N r
I i; \\ f, Li IN jp vl.>
J4.
ttli- (l.iii
t I'luli (!
'c. Add
lilted U<
liuiit re
ll.lM ot
'itrdly a
iiriid u^
liiii, .111(1
>| ill', l)\
iiI)n»|K'i
)lt , and
r itsoiir
I III tliis
i-i cfdis-
liiM dis-
IMllllcilljr
war ex
.irmy. It
\ tMvaln
.' it hub ;t
vlih li ha'-
>t.'. I ]vAV>
il'ttr took
A cavahv
• -
J iuiiuIki
lid IK to
aiiiiiLj lor
•!i. uiidi't
ulii(.!i ai-
only oil*
Astiirias.
.!s almost
itia.
tility and
IS ill ih-
Votwith
•asinf;, so
IK' of tht
il}- rattd
favagaiit
r part of
■viK* |)roviiui s (if Spain ; tor Vfid ilnsi i. l^)l( ri' the I nv* {)rM'iil»ir thi ro\f rtin,' of marcs hv
.i«»s(',. is 'III- oiil\ |)rovini;c in whirh thi- horst s r«f lin t!it \r ori^^in d !». luty. And out
Would III lid to imagine that {\iii th-M, althoii;,d» ilii ) may havi lo-it nothing ol' tluir
lili, ligun , and clocility, havi- yet hist vmu'vinl ol'tluir \\/,inir. I'>)f, Irom the atrouir
of our I)...! olHL'iT«»orc.n ih'\ , notliinif casj h- ui'irv l)iilli ,iit than ill' lirst <liar>;i; ol'S|»an
iili cavalry, n.iy, ivc.i th.' si'ioiid, hut a» tht* durd th« ir li ;rsi'^ .>rc spint.
Mcuct '1 ippcars, and it is allonid Ijy all impartial Spauiarrls compi tent to f^ivc an
opinion, i!iatth<. Ikm racers have lost souuuluu (jftluir stniigth. Thiy have no other
nil thod t 'ii-)i.(|uentlv to rem <v it but by cro^sin;^ the breed.
In the '■ irrval <)i this complite ni^eneralion, some graiidt es on their own estates, and
the kiuj5 ' Cordova, vindat Armjii' i4,afc stdVu ieiulv oeeupit tl in tin preservuiitui oltlu
fiiK- raei' •' liieh remain. Some studs oi h.nst s h;'.\i made tin ir appiarauei ,it Madrid,
and at the ■'illerint roval feats. Should this f,e>hi(>ii Ikc nut ^^^ in ral, stucUot mules will
be out ofi oi^ue, and a ^reatir number of pt.o[»le will liiid themselxis iutirv,'»led in mul
ti|)l)inn i \d perfeetiu)^ the breed of horses.
AIrt '■ has the priiiei <»1' th' |)i .lee, who appeal's to be st rionslv ituent on wluitevi'
ma) con. ii)ute to the pro-^perity of the itate, aUemjitid aiiexpiiiiueni whiel\ prob.iblv
may oreision a rem^wal of the excellent breed of Spiuiish horsi s. He has caused to b«
brou).;h'. i'omthe breed of N<)riu.!iidy i lumdnd handsome mares, for the siiidsof Cdr-
do\a aiM,'< Aranjuc/j. Spanish n u uralisis priu nd, diat, from dii.' uiiit)ti of our Norujan
mares w uh the Sj)anish stallions, loals will be drop', uniliu); the shape and stienj^rlh ol
the fern lie, with the beauty and swiftness of the jnalc. Analojry drawn from similar
< ousc(|ui !iti s in other animaK s'.iins to sup|)ort the opiiiloo, 'oul experieiiee, the best
feacher, imisl determine as tolln. ilKet. 'riie experiment however, without beuij^ very
costly, may e>eiuually be useful, and possibl) remuiu rate Spain for the acquisition we
are abouf to make from the crossinj^ of sheep of the Spanish breed. 'I'luis it is that
i;riat n.uiuits, rivals without beini;; jealous, n. nouneiii^ exchisi\e endownu its, uiid mul-
tiply inj.-; benefits 'veit;^e the luseh es one <! tlu; other ilia beiielicial and laudable manner.
Nature, which Ms been s'> b(juntifid to Spain in all the necessaries and comforts of
life, who denies hei scarcely uuy of ihe tnjMynKiits of [Kace, has not been sparin}^ to-
H.irds III r i.u the materials of war. She is | 'odi^^il to her of iron, eop|)er, lead, and
saltpetre ; aiwl the cxeelleni e el h.^-r artillery en i!;les h»er to dispense with foreign depen-
dance.
Ir was in 171 that tlie Spanish artilkrv took its pi\st nt form. At that period it was
'■(jlUciitl iiitooiR re|;iment, composed i . live ba't.ilrr.is, which ha\e recently been ex
teiitledto six, ^vith(•ut inclMdinj^the cadets, who are brouf^hi up at Set^ovia.
This regiment lui-. 304 (.►ttieers, and ita comtnaiidaut-general for colonel, who, at the
•vauK time, is inspi-etor of llw corps.
Count (lazola, iiealled from Naples by Charles HI, when he ascended the throne ol
Spain bifijau the impro\ements in the ariilkiy, which had been ne^;lected under Ferdi-
:v;ii(.l S f like several other branches of admiiiisiration. Tin,- new monarch reipiesled
the court oi I' ranee to suul him a founder. M. Marif;: was accoidiii>rl\ suit, and made
acv< ral iTcat aktratioiis in the Spanish loimderies. He adopted ii method of casting
the Ciiuiou solid, and boriiii; them afterwards. I'lnvy created him i .my obstacles, and
some unsuccessful efi'orts scv mcd to justify ihc iil will with which Ik was received ; for
many ol the canuon cast in this new mi.imer were found dekctivn Me was more-
ox er unpardoDublj culpable in casting a great ijuantlty of Mcxic.ai ''I'per, without
ascertaining whether the metal was sutticit iilly solid. Most of the sc cam.)!! failed m the
proof, and the clamour against him btiamc [general. His natural courare, and thf
1 1'>
DM {K.oA NN^ i I i; \ \ l.i ; i \ ;.r MN.
;»ni!rttiuii III till kiiifr. Mippoitnl tiiiii iijj;.ii;i^t ilu' ^^ln|»l^t ; nut] lie rontiivu'cl to «rn|i|f,\
his bi'M (lulr.iv Dills ill llu vrvitr til' Spiiii, al'lnii ;Ii In iliNpairnl nfcxir hiiiij; iisflu!
loit. \i Uii';'ili Ik' (|nitti'(l it. Ua\iti;j; IhIuikI liiio liis tn< ilnxt and jtriiu ijilcs, uitli tin
|»rriMiilitiii«»aiHl improMiiu iit> lu luul hn n t,iii|rht l»j i siu ritnco. At iiivm iii, i-viii hi'
» h< luir , at I.iinu|i(l!;\' tluu hi' has l)ii n ut'rv ii Mi\i'\' to tlu' Spanish artifli ry. Thr man
lai ill \\lii(h it was '.nsid in iIk' w ir witli Ijirhuul, pailii:iilarly at tlu- sit ^;i nl .Malimi
and ivui (liiriii;, (Ik wm irrminatul hy thk tivaiy <»l' Haslr, have pnjMcl that Spain iit
iliii <li|i,irinuni oI'iIk' mi'.iian art ha*, imi Ik*.!! ri tro;rraclc'.
( (dint (lar.''Ia. an Itilian, \\a-< at his (U itli vit ixtd-cl \)\ cnimt dr I.ascy, an Irishman
l>y I»irll), will) hid Im n sin ci sslnllv (.niplnv.d on srxuc missions nl' a |)()litit a! naliin in
ihr iiuitli, and wliKsi- hriii;,^ plai'rd at the luad r)t' the iirtillcry as u ri cninpcncc', cxcitcil
Miiiit •.ni|iii'^«i . At hisdialh. in 17!'..'. iniint il( (.'oltumra (ihtaiiud his plan, ronnrrN
Doll .M.nin AU.iu.;, whn pi\sidid lora tiiU', at l!u u\v\<y ul' ('liliraitar. L'pnn his iisiji,
nation, Don Joseph dc L'riali.i look his plait.. uhi)Commandi<l tin,' Spaiiisharmv.il tlu
limr oT llu' coniliision ol" tlu' U\i\\\ oi'pi.icc at Hasli, and was alttrw.irds nuidc i' iptain.
{;'iiii. ral. His military tali nls sicnrul him l!u nnaniinoiis snlira^c not only ol" his owi.
ronnliy. hni imiioI thr (.iicinii s to whirh hf was o|>pijstd. WheiVMr wisdom and in
lonn.ition air in t issary. In,- i. in his I'JLnunt.
'I'lif Spanish ;aiilUi\ has many disiiniMiishid otllci rs. 'I'lu snpuior nurit of fj^cnvrai
Si,i'.!".a, >\ho ri'iiiniaiidMl .it thr .siip.u ol' Mahon, has Ijilu aiknowlt dgid in forci);'!!
I'ouhlriis.
Sp.iin produiis moiv li ad ihan is iMinin. d I'or lur arstiials. Its principal mim, tliat
of Lin. in. /,. in tlu kini^dnin ol .hn n, \ itlds iniii h inoii' than is sold in Spain loi ilu' kin;.(*s
arc()(ini ; and iioiw iihstanding tlu othtrsln' imp il' clly worked, noi jii'ldiii^- nioit than
.sooo, .Spain can yit export a thousand tons pi.r annum.
Tluiv arc si\iral loppir minis also in Spain. 'I'luit of Kio-'I'into is tlu- most pro-
dni'tiM ; ilbnppliisa part ol' tin.' a'-tiilrry. lint lli.' coppi r ol ihc Spinish Indies is also
l.iid niidi. r contnljiition. That ol Mi.sicoaiid IVrn is riTiiKd and mannlaitnrcd in the
two royal ii)iin(!iiits ol' HaKclona and Sc\ilk'. TIk' laimon cast there have tur>-thirds
<i[' .Nfrsiean copper to (me of that of Peru.
liiscay and llu Asinrias linnish tlu; iron neei. ssary lor the Spanish artillery. Cannon
made of this metal arc east at I/ieri;anes and Cavada. Ikiore the war with l-'rance tlu"
last iron came Irom the rijrgesoriaij.^niian(l .Mn,:;a. In the phrenzy orcoiKjiie.si these two
t -)tablishnu nts wire destroy ed b\ our armies, as if we were coml)atinjj;aii irreconcileable
eiKHi}, whose iiKaiis ofileleiiee we were' desirous ofannihilalini;;. Since polic\ so frc
'|Ut nily otiMsions war, it oiij^ht not only to pardon, hut minutely directinj^ its o|)erations,
to aelas a eorreeti\e to the luedhssiKss of ( lattd \ietory. Since the peace Sp.iin, ta
kin}^; advantage of this lesson, has isiablivhed new fon!;es in places at a greater distance
from her frontiers, and a manulactor\ of (ire-arms at C)\iedo. She has besides manu^
factories oi muskets at Placeniia and Hipol ; and, lastly, one of sword-blades at Toledo,
which has been twenty \i ars eMablisIad, and whirlu veil at its first setting ofl' promised
!ijn \ivellie ancient reputation oi the blades of that city.
Spain ii. one of the richest countries in J'.uropc in saltpetri'. La Manclui and Arra-
gon iuid the ri])U(alion of fnriiish.ing this article of an excellent (juality. A French
' ompan) h.id undertaken the preparation of it, and for this purpose sent M. Salvador
Dampieire to Sjjain. This ageni, though crossed in his plans, failed in his undertaking.
()i\ a piece of ground near Madrid he nuiele sonn- unsuccessful experiments, by which
go\ernment wisel) profutd. Tlu ground in '|nestion is found to contain saltpetre of a
■inality ."Aiperior to that of Lu -Main ha and Arragon : in conse(|iicnce of which a nia-
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noUROOANNE'a IR.Wlil.S IN Sl'AIX
447
nufacturc was begun there in 1779, which was entrusted to the management of i)on Ro-
fendo Parayuelo, one of the commissionerb-general of rents. In 1785, it was one of the
most curious establishments in the capital ; it kcjit four thousand men in employ. After
two boilings the saltpetre is fit for makiiig powder. The first boiling requires eight or
ten days, but a few hours are suflicient lor the second. Water is conveyed in abun-
dance to this manufacture by subterraneous pipes. Neither has wood been wanting
since th«s opening aflbrds a consumption ior that, which the inhabitants of the hills of
Guadarrama did not before ca en give themselves the trouble of cutting.
The earth which produces the saltpetre recovers itself with surprising promptitude.
The caput mc^tuum is brought to the environs of the manufacture ; and sometimes in
less than a month the air, impregnating it afresh with nitre, renders it fit for a second
oper!;«t5on. It has been remarked, that after the continuance of a cermin wind, the
neighbouring soil becomes whitened, as if snow had fallen upon it. In 1792, I found
this manufactory surrounded with walls, and in full work.
The saltpetre is sent to the powder-mills at Alcazar, St. Juam in La Mancha, to Villa
Fetiche in the kingdom of Valentia, to Murcia, and Granada, the etnplo) nicnt of which
mills has been considerably increased since the establishment of the manufacture at Ma-
drid. When in its infancy, the proprietors engaged to furnish government annually
with eleven thousand quintals. During the war they exceeded their engagement, and
the director flattered himself, in 1784, that the establishment would soon yield thirty
thousand quintals a year. The manufactory, however, could not supply the enormous
consumption of powder at the camp of St. Roch : and although 35,000 quintals were
sent thuher when the attack was to be made on Gibraltar, government was obliged to
hasten the arrival of more from Genoa, Trance, and Holland. At present it wholly
supplies the demand of Spain, and will soon become a new branch of exportation.
Hitherto the quality of this new powder is incontestably good ; it is said to carry
twice as far as common powder; for which reason Charles III, and the infants made
use of no other in shooting ; and the king of Naples some years ago used to receive
a small quantity of it by every weekly courier from Madrid. Spaniards as well as fo-
reigners were eager in the purchase of it. I saw our admiral Guichin at the time of
his visit to the Escurial, where he had an opportunity of witnessing the excellence of it.
He begged half a score pounds of it of the king as a favour ; and as simple in his man-
ners, as he was brave and religious, with no other luggage than his night-cap, his bre-
viary, and his ten pounds of powder, he set off on his journey to Madrid.
Spanish America will soon be independent of the mother country with respect to this
commodity. The minister Galvez ordered three manufactories of saltpetre to be estab-
lished at Lima, Mexico, and Santa Fe de Bogota. For the improvement of these ma-
nufactories he sent the same Salvador Dampierre to America, who failed in his attempts
in Europe. Thus the Spanish colonies possess wiUiin themselves these means of defence.
Will not the metropolis have cause to repent this ? The seeds of discontent, which at'
different intervals for several years back, have shewn themselves in such an alarming
marnier, have they been entirely stifled in their growth ?
The corps of engineers is separate from the artillery, as is the case in France ; it was
not established before the year 1711. It consists of ten directors, ten colonels, twenty
lieutenant-colonels, thirty captains, forty lieutenants, and forty second lieutenants : in
all, one hundred and fifty officers, who are indiscriminately occupied in the superin-
tendance of fortifications and civil architecture. There is but one commander for each
of these works ; and he who presides over the latter retains at the same time his rank
in the army, althoiigh he cannot properly be considered as a military man. The person
^o»*
448
BOUUCOANNE S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
who at present hold the place is truly n military character, general Urriitia. It was
previously held by Don Francisco Sabaltine, an Italian architect of ability, who at the
same time was a lieutenant general in the army, he filled this situation for twenty years
before his death. In right of his station, general Urrutia has under his direction the
three academies at Barcelona, Cadiz, and Zamera, established for the instruction of those
intended for engineers, as well as such cadets or officers in the army as may be studious
of learning the mathematics.
In 1796 a new description of engineers was formed, under the title of Royal Corps of
Cosmographic Engineers of the State ; it has, like the other, somewhat of a military frame,
its director and four principal professors holding the rank of captain.
As to the distinguishing marks of the diHerent ranks in the various regiments, I shall
only observe that the general officers have an uniiorm very much resembling that worn
formerly by French officers of the same rank. The colonels, lieutenant-colonels, and
majors wear no epaulettes. The captains wear two epaulettes ; the lieutenants, one
upon the right shoulder ; and the second lieutenants, one upon the left. All officers
who are not at least field-marshals are obliged continually to wear their uniform even
when they appear at court. These uniforms are white tec the national infantry, except
the Spanish and Walloon guards, who wear blue. The uniform of the cavalry is in-
differently blue, green, red, or yellow. The artillery and the Swiss regiments wear
blue. In every regiment the men wear its name on their buttons ; this is for the most
part that of a town or a province : the Swiss legiments alone bear the name of their
colonel. According to some late regulations, no person can become an officer without
having been a cadet.
An establishment has been formed about twenty years, very well calculated to pro-
duce officers of merit, I speak of the military school, which we liave before noticed more
than once. Its founder, count O'Reilly, possessed the talent suited to the presidency
of a similar establishment, and making it prosper.
Born in Ireland, of catholic parents, he entered the Spanish service very young, and
in Italy served in the war of the Austrian succession. It was there that he received a
wound which caused him to limp the resi of his days. In 1757 he was under the com-
mand of general Lascy, and until 1759 when he joined the French army. Marshal
Broglio conceived a particular esteem fur him, and recommended him to the king on
his return to Spain. He afterwards made a campaign in Portugal, where he distinguished
himself. Peace being made, he was made field-marshal, and lieutenant-commandant at
the Havanna, whence he afterwards passed over to Louisiana, the colonists of which
province were refractory under the Spanish yoke. The means he exercised for restrain-
ing their insurrection drew on his head the most bitter execrations. In the course of
his long career O'Reilly experienced all the shades of favour and disgrace. The affec-
tion which Carles III, entertained for him was for a long time insufficient to protect
him from the hatred of the people.
Few men have inspired the same degree of enthusiasm and hatred. His conduct at
Louisiana, where his name will long be coupled with maledictions ; and his unfortunate
expedition to Algiers in 1774, caused him to be ranked among wicked men and bad
generals ; possibly he neither deserved the one title nor the other. Skilful, insinuating,
active, even physically, notwithstanding his lameness, and well acquainted, at least in
theory, with his profession ; he possessed at the same time the art of rendering himself
necessary on different occasions. After languishing in a kind of exile, not however
without maintaining his dignity, he was made commandant-general of Andalusia, and
had his favourite bantlmg, the military school, removed from Avila to Port St. Mary,
'N
BOlfncOANNE's TUAVF.LS IN SPAIN.
44'J
near Cadiz, his place of residence In this command he displayed genuine talents for
every branch of administration. He was not beloved ; but he concealed his despotic
character under the mask of such engaginjij manners, that he appeared to lie obeyed less
through fear than devotion, and was regretted when the implacable Lercna, >vho had
had some sharp altercations with him while intendant of Andalusia, caused him to be
removed to Gallicia. Upon the accession of Charles IV, he thought he might again
appear at court, but was received under circumstances more mortifying than befitted
his confidence, and was ordered to the kingdom of Valentia. l:^vcr indefatigable, he
sought there to render himself of service in proposing plans, and giving his advice, at
the time that war broke out in France. The commanel of the army of Catalonia was
entrusted to his friend general Ricardos, who was also by descent his countryman, his
father, an Irishman, having married the daughter of the duke de Montemar. Ricardos,
any more than O'Reilly, was no great favomitc with the new court, notwithstanding
his talents and his long and useful service. Ricardos d} ing, after some success ^vhich
justified his appointment, O'Reilly was named to succeed him. This unexpected
triumph was his last. While on his march to take the eonmiand of the army, luckily
for his fame, he died. Striking reverses befel his successor, the count de la Union ;
young, brave, and full of ardour, but with all these qualities, without experience. Pro-
bably the same fate would have awaited O'Reilly ; he was no more, and we gave him
our regret. He survived, however, the establishment which he had founded ; the mi-
litary school, after having produced distinguished officers for the Spanish infantry, died
away in his last exile.
The government does not forget the declining years of their military men. There is
a corps of invalids in Spain, as well officers as soldiers , but the forty-six companies, of
which it is composed, are distributed at Madrid, and in the provinces, where they per-
form an easy duty. Those incapable of all service form another corps of twenty-six
companies, divided between Seville, Valentia, Lugo, and Toro. Both these corps are
under the inspectors of the infantry.
In Spain there is no order of knighthood particularly destined to the reward of offi-
cers. Charles III, however, made a point of conferring on none but these the four
military orders ; yet without excluding them from that he has himself founded. But
these favours depend entirely on his pleasure, and not upon the length of service.
Other means exist of rewarding old officers ; the king bestows on them pensions, or
rank on the staff at his different garrisons.
Neither arc their widows forgotton in his beneficent distributions. In 1761, he esta*
blished a fund from which they receive pensions according to the rank of their hus*
bands. Eighteen thousand rials a year are paid to those of captains-general, twelve
thousand to those of lieutenants-general, and in proportion to the widows of petty of-
ficers. This fund consists of a g^nt of 360,000 rials (4,0901.) anterior to its esta-
blishment ; a contribution of twenty per cent, upon what the king receives from the
spolios y vacante, half a month's appointment paid once by all the officers of the army,
and a deduction of eight maravedis from each crown of their pay ; and all the property
of officers dying without heirs, or intestate. Truly valuable institution, and worthy of
imitation, which by ensuring a subsistence to the widows of officers, without their stand-
ing in need of credit to enforce their claims, greatly encouraged military men to marry.
A nearly similar plan has been adopted by the other classes of society, even by artisans.
The place of commandant-general of a province is an opening to general officers,
but obliges them to almost a perpetual residence ; for in Spain, bishops, intendants,
governors, and commanders reside where they are employed, notwithstanding the resi-
VOL. V. 3 m
;t''
^<f*
I'
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450
BO'uRGO/iNNE*S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
dcncc of the forcigi), and the capital have the same temptations for ambition and dis.
sipution as in other countries.
All the commandants of provinces bear the title of captnin-general, which however
must not be confounded with that of the military rank. They sometimes, but im-
properly, receive the title of viceroy also, which regularly belongs to none but the com-
mandant of Navarre, and those of the principal provinces of Spanish America.
The stations of these conunanderies or cnptancies-general are, Madrici^ for New Cas-
tile ; Zamora, for Old Castile ; Barcelona, for the principality of Catalonia ; Valencia, for
the kingdoms of Valencia and Murcia; Palma, for the kingdom of Majorca; Pembe-
luna, for the kingdom of Navarre ; St. Sebastian, for Guipusova ; Port St. Mary, for
Andalusia; Malaga, for the coast of Granada; Corunna, for Gallicia; Badajoz, for
Estremadura ; Ceuta, for the presidencies of Africa ; and Santa Cruz de TenerifFe, for
the Canaries.
None of those idle appointments created by favour, to the injury of the finances of
the country, formerly so common in France, are met with in Spain. Our neighbours
hence have two abuses less than we had to provoke a revolution, and which were in some
measure the instigation of ours, this and the fastidious display of splendour which indi-
viduals of all ranks who held the chief places of the monarchy came to make at court.
So dearly in every respect is a revolution purchased, that the philanthropist dwells with
pleasure on every circumstance which tends to remove to a distance the dangerous ne-
cessity of such a measure. Let us now proceed to the Spanish navy.
CHAPTER V.
BPAKISn NAVIGATORS, ANCIEXT AND MODERN.
NAVY. SAILORS. CONSTHVCTION OF SHIFS.
REGENCIES. M. FLORIDA BLANCA.
DEPARTMENTS OF THE NAVY. 0?riCi;n3 OF THlt
NAVAL FORCE. ITS APPOINTMENTS. OARBARY
The Spanish navy for more than half a century acted the first part upon the theatre
of Europe, whether the spirit of discovery with which it was actuated be considered, or
its character in war. The world will never forget the names of Colon, Magellan, or Cano,
nor the power which encouraged their illustrious enterprizes. Neither will the names
of Quiros and Mendana, less known although not less deserving of distinction, for their
vast knowledge and sagacity, which modern observations have done justice to, be ever
obliterated from the memory of the geographer. At the same period their navy could
equally boast its warriors ; but they disappeared with the invincible armada ; and under
the reigns of the three Philips it scarce preserved a vestige of its former fame. Charles II
left the navy, as well as the other departments of the monarchy, in the most deplorable
state.
The efforts made by the Spaniards during the war of succession restored a momentary
activity in naval affairs ; but their skilful seamen were irremediably lost. In the two
last reigns they have endeavoured, and not altogether ineffectually, to revive this part
of the glory of their nation. I shall say nothing of Don Jorge Juan, or Don Antonio Ulloa,
who accompanied Condamine in his expedition ; the object of it was only to make astro-
nomical observations. The Spaniards have more recently undertaken voyages of dis-
covery, or for the purpose of taking the bearings of coasts hitherto badly known ; but
these appear to be kept back from the public eye, an affectation for which they certainly
deserve the reproof of the lovers of science ; although, in spite of their jealous secrecy,
the details and result of the greater part of their voyages are pretty well known to the
world.
In 1768, a vessel which sailed from Montevideo, coasted along that little frequented
shore which intervenes between the river of Plato and the straights of Magellan, and
BOURGO.VNNi; .'i 1 RAVELS IN SPAIN.
451
thence proceeded to reconnoitre the Falkland islands, a cruize which threatened to cau^e
ft rupture between England and Spain.
In 1769 and 1770, by orders of the marquis dc Santa Cruz, viceroy of Mexico, and
under the direction of Don Joseph Galvez, who was then fitting himself, by his attention
to die interests of his country, for the office of chief minister, which he has since filled
with so much honour to himself, two expeditions were dispatched at the same time, the
one by sea, and the other by land, from San Bias, a port in Mexico, under the 21" of
north latitude, to examine the port of Montirey, which, notwithstanding it was laid down
in the charts with tolerable exactitude by Vczcayno, who discovered it in 1692, the
naval detachment had great difficulty in finding again.
About the same time, other Spanish mariners, namely, Don Philip de Gonzales, and
Don Antonio de Monte, the one commanding the St. Laurence, of 70 guns, and the
other the Rosalie frigate, of 36, sailed from Callao de Lima, on an expedition to the
islands of the South Sea, and fell in with Easter island, not for the first time, (for the
merit of the discovery is indisputably due to Roggevvein, the Dutchman) but before
Cook and Peyrouse ; and under conviction of its not having been before discovered, took
possession of it in the name of the king of Spain, and erected crosses on three little
hills, giving it the name of San Carlos.
In 1775, Bucarelli, viceroy of Mexico, dispatched two officers from San Bias, Don
.'uande Agala, and Don Francisco de la Bodega, to take bearings of the coast of Cali-
fornia, as high up as to the 65th degree. They were, however, unable to proceed higher
than 57 degrees, and returned, after having taken the plans of different small havens on
the coast, such as Los Remedios, de Los Doleres, &c. Don Antonio Morelle, v/ho
afterwards obtained, possibly on too slight grounds, the tide of the Spanish Cook, was
on this voyage pilot to the vessel commanded by Don Juan de Agala.
H? since, at his individual expcnce, has made several voyages, which, on account of
the difficulties he had to encounter, obtained for him some degree of reputation. He un-
dertook more than once, in spite of the monsoons which reigned at the time, different
voyages from the Philippines to the western const of America ; and thus it was that in
1780 and 1781 he arrived from Manilla at San Bias on board the Princess.
It was well known also that the Spaniards had touched before Cook at Otuheite, the
discovery of which belongs neither to our contemporaries, nor commodore Wallis, nor
even our admiral Bouganville, whose relations respecting this island have taught us to
speak of it with the tenJ "rest emotion. It is to Quiros that we are indebted for the first
discovery. It is seen in the second voyage of captain Cook, that the Spaniards left two
of their countrymen there ; but we have as yet very few detail . of his expedition, the
work being yet in manuscript.
There is yet a later voyage of theirs which has been published. It is that which Don
Antonio de Cordova made in the Santa Maria de Cabeza, in the years 1785 and 1786.
The anonymous author, who has given an account of it, under the title of, Relacion del
uhimo Viage al estucho de Magellanes, in los anos 1785 and 1786, and who appears to be
well versed in nautical knowledge, has added to it a description of all anterior voyages,
and extracts from several valuable manuscripts which were not hitherto known.*
M. Fleuricu, in a work, meritorious in every point of view, published in 1799 and 1800, entitled
A Voyage round the World by captuin Marchand, treats both the ancient and modern navigators of
Spain with some severity; but the Spanish government, which principally deserves these reproaches,
in order to disculpate itself and them, laying mistrust and jealousy aside, and imbibing the same desires
of propagating knowledge with the other powers of Europe, will doubtless ere long permit them to be
given to the world.
3 M 2
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452
llOUHM)ANNli'r. TRAVELS IN Sl'AIN.
i
Lastly, still mure recently, a naval ofliccr of talents, M.dc Malaspinu, sailed fromCa.
(liz on a voyajrc round the world. His expedition was of the same intent with that ol*
Peyrousc ; and as well as the vmfortunatc PVench circumnavigator, he departed furnish-
cd with proper instrununts for all kind of observations. On his return to Cadiz he
deposited his manuscript in the hands of father Gil, a learned monk, who while em-
ployed in looking it over, and preparing it for the press, having in common with the
captain, for a cause but too well known, incurred the anger of the court and its advisers,
was, together with him, put in prison; the ^\•ork was suspended, and the satisfaction
which the learned in Europe promised themselves to enjoy was adjourned sine die.*
How silly for such as arc calculated to go roiuid the world, to give the history of the
voyage, and enlighten mankind, to lose their time in following court intrigues.
This is the extent of what the Spaniards have latterly efl'ected to increase the extent
of navigation. Their ships of war present them other palms to gather. Let us sec what
they have done, and what they are capable of, in this dangerous career.
Charles HI, found the navy in an imperfect state, notwithstanding Ferdinand VI, had
less neglected this than other branches of the administration, and notwithstanding his
minister, the marquis de la Ensenada, be esteemed its restorer. It is divided into three
departments, those of Ferrol, Carthagena, and Cadiz.
The first presents real inconveniences, in the unhealthiness of the climate, and the
frequent rains which retard operations in the port, from which no vessel can sail but
with one particular wind. This department were perhaps better at Vigo, for the north-
ern coast of Spain, the climate of which is very healthy, the soil fertile, and the harbour
safe and spacious ; the change has more than once been in contemplation ; but arsenals
and magazines must have been established at Vigo, where at present there is none ; the
harbour, now an open road, must have been fortified at a very considerable cxpcnce ; and,
lastly, its vicinity to Portugal, which has long been considered as the natural enemy of
Spain, for no other reason, perhaps, than because it is its nearest neighbour, seemed a for-
bidding circumstance. These considerations of economy and policy have collectively
prevented the execution of this project.
The department of Carthagena has many advantages over that of Ferrol. The safety
of its harbour is known to a proverb among seamen, who say. There are but three good
ports for vessels, the month of June, that of July, and the harbour of Carthagena. This
safety extends to the arsenals and dock-yards, which in a narrow and insulated space,
may, if I may use the expression common with the Spaniards, be locked up by a single
•key. Carthagena is consequently the port at which the greatest number of ships are
built, caulked, and careened. It possesses besides an artificial dock, deserving of admi*
ration, even after seeing the famous forme at Toulon. Charles III, in 1770, established
there a corps of engineers for the navy, under the direction of M. Gauthier, of whom I
shall hereafter speak.
The department of Cadiz is, however, the most important of the three, from its fa-
vourable situation for the departure of fleets. As 1 mean to conduct my reader to Cadiz,
where I resided some time, I shall refer him to my account of it for the information I
have been able to collect relative to its port, dock -yards, and arsenals, which will serve
as a supplement to what I shall here say of the Spanish navy.
It is officered much in the same manner as that of France before the revolution. In-
stead of vice-admirals, there are captains-general, who enjoy the same honours as those
• In 1797, it was expected that the voyage of Malaspina would shortly be published. The expec-
tation has not been satisfied, which has given rise to an opinion that a different cause to that suspected
acts as a preventative to its publication.
BOUUCOANN& :i IRAVKLS IN Ui'Al.V.
463
of the army. At pri'stnt (1802) there arc hut two captains general of the tiavy, the Bailli
de VhUUs, wlio has been minister of this department for fourteen years; and Don Juan
de Langara, u horn we have before noticed ; but above them all, as well as above nil the
captains-general of the army, is one more highly privileged, for whom the rank of gene-
ralissimo of the navy has been created, I allude to Kl Principe de la Paz. Immediately
after the captain-general, rank, as in France, the lieutenants-general, who were in 1783
seventeen in number. There were thirty in 1790, ten of which had been made the year
before, at the conclusion of a war which had aflbrded but few occasions of displayinij
their courage and capacity. At present there are but eighteen.
We have lately had an opportimity of judging of the value of several of them ; admi-
ral Mazarcdo, for example, who for more than a year that he resided at Paris, charged
with u mission of importance on matters relative both to politics and naval affairs, and
who at present (1802) is displaying his activity in the department of Cadiz, where he re-
sides. Admiral Gravina, who commanded the Spanish squadron during the time of its
anchorage at Brest, and who so justly deserved the praise lavished upon him by our
admiral, for his conduct in the command of the auxiliary scpiadron at Saint Domingo.
Admiral San Domingo (irandellana, whose zeal and capacity have advanced him to the
ministry of the navy. Admiral Don Juan Moreno, who, in spite of tlie deplorable acci-
dent which befel two of his ships before Cadiz, did not yet forfeit the well-earned title
given him by our sailors, the witnesses of his courage and his misfortune, of a brave and
respectable admiral.
Beside them may be placed several admirals who in former wars had acquired distin-
guished reputation, and who have only needed opportunities to enhance it in the two
last.
In this number are the marquis de Socorro (formerly Don Francisco Solano) known
by that name for several voyages, in which he displayed considerable nautical abilities ;
and who had the command of the Spanish squadron, in 1783, which laid off the coast of
Terra Firma, and which was destined to second us in the decisive attack of Jamaica in
1783, when a frigate brought us the news of peace ; Don Francisco de Borja, at pre-
sent captain-general of the department of Carthagena ; Don Felix de Texada, captain,
general of that of Ferrol ; Don Gabriel De Aristezabel, &c.
After the lieutenants-general of the navy come the commodores, who were no more
than fifteen in 1788 ; they were raised to the number of forty-four at the end of the war
in 1795, and are now reduced to thirty-four.
Among the commodores are many who do honour to the Spanish navy ; such as Don
Francisco Munoz, known for his boldness ; Don Thomas Munoz, by his rare talents for
hydraulic architecture ; and Don Antonio Cordova, for misfortunes which his bravery
but ill deserved.
The Spanish navy has an intermediate rank between a commodore and a post-captain,
which is that of brigadier ; there were in 1788 forty-four of this description ; at the peace
of 1795 fifty-five, thiny-two of which had been promoted for service during the war. At
present their number is forty-two.
The number of captains in 1788 was only forty-five ; at present there arc one hundred
and twenty- three.
By this comparison it is visible, that whether war be fortunate or otherwise, it presents
the advantage of numerous promotions. But on an element so perfidious as the sea,
success does not always attend upon courage and skill , and skill and courage yet deserve
reward.
^o^
I
,1
4S4
BOURCOANNC I THAVKLS IN SPAIN.
One rule, to which there arc very few exccplioni, is, that to ac(]ulrc rank in the navy,
it in ncccsiiary to have passed through the Gardc-niarine. This cori^s was rstahlished in
1717 ; it cotisists of three companies, divided among the diflfereni departments, each eon*
mining ninety-two cadets, for whose instruction there is an academy, composed of u di-
rector and eight professors.
With these means of obtaining the theory of that diflicuU and perilons art, naviga-
tion, with the facility which the vast extent ui'the Spanish monarchy prebcnis of acquir-
ing practical knowledge, from frequent and distant expeditions, m.iiignity may And
room to criticise with severity the conduct of the olHcers of the Spanish navy ; and wc
know that even in Spain this prerogative was freely used in the covirse of the American
war.
It is not for mc to form an opinion of these decisions, I leave that to our sea officers
who in that war sailed and fought by the side of their allies, from 1779 to 1782; let
them declare if such decisions were not lacpiently dictated by prejudice and injustice.
The war which .Spain waged wiih us from April 1793 to the peace of Uasle in 1796, may
make our opinions appear too severe, from their officers being judged by enemies. Yet,
if the bay of Rosas be excepted, whence u small squadron, commanded by the intrepid
Gravina, defended with great zeal the citadel of the same name, and the little fort Bouten,
and the port of Toulon, which the combined squadrons got possession of, owing to
treachery ; where during this war did the Spanish navy shew itself to any advantage ?
Its own nation groaned and blushed for its inactivity. But we know that their irksome
sensations were pariici|)ated by the navy itself, which was prevented shewing its value
by the extreme circumspection of the chief of its department; a wise and cautious man,
better adapted to organize fleets during peace, than to sketch out plans for their active
service in war; while in addition, happily for us, there existed in the combined fleets
that want of intelligence which was to be ex|)ected between two nations, one of which
haughty, although weak, is the least of all others disposed to crouch before the capri-
ciousness of arrogance ; two nations momentarily united by interest, but which could but
ill agree as to their object or plan of action.
As soon as this unnatural union was abolished, to the great sorrow of the one, and
the comi)lete satisfaction of the other, the Spanish navy instantly shewed itself disposed to
cancel the past errors of its government ; and if in the succeeding war, in which she
beheld as her enemies those who before had been her allies, it has failed of signalizing
itself as it wished, circumstaiKCS alone were to blame.
It is well known that a considerable part of her navy having entered Brest, at the par-
ticular desire of our government, shared there the same fate with our own, and was for
a long time blockaded by superior force. But it cannot be forgotten, that otherwise, on
every occasion which offered, the Spanish sailors gave satisfactory proofs of constancy
and intrepidity.
The English, in particular, must recollect their long and fruitless blockade of Cadiz ;
the reception which they met with at the Canaries in 1797; before Ferrol in 1800; par-
ticularly their expedition against Cadiz in the month of October in the same year ; and,
lastly, their vain attempt on the coast of Algesiras in the month of June 1801, where the
glorious efforts of our sailors were so well seconded by the foresight and valour of their
allies ; and, on our part, we shall not forget the manner in which they assisted us recently,
on our expedition to St. Domingo.
At any rate, the most severe judges will agree, that there exists much intelligence'
and theoretic knowledge in the Spanish navy. Recent prools have been afforded of
>^AJ!l I'
*.,.. ..'
BOURCOANWC 3 TIlAYtLS I V SPAIV.
455
this, in the works contained in the depot for /nival charts at M.ulrid ; and in works
given to th*: world latterly by some oflie.rrs in the nnvy, truly learned in their profes-
sion, nlthou^h hut vounj^, Messrs. Mendoza, Clnliano, and the two brothers Cisear.
The officers of the navy arc, with respect to military rewardN^ upon a footing with
those of the army. Vice-royalties, governments of provinces, or places in America, arc
indiscriminately given to general officers of the army and thnse of the navy. But the
latter have, in the exercise of their profession, means of enriching themselves, which are
looked upon as lawful in Spain, which they sometinv.s abuse, and which render less
nccessar)' the bounty of the king. This cu|)idity might be excused in cf^ujuerors , but
what title does it deserve when, as is pretended, it has been the cause of their failure of
success ?
The sailors are classed as in France, and divided among the three departments. The
registers of the classes make the number of the whole amount to from 55 to 60,000.
But a goo<l fourth of this number must be deducted for those unfit for seu service, and
who cause their names to be inscribed for no other purpose than to enjoy the privileges
attached to the character of an inscribed sailor. Let the department of Ferrol serve for
a specimen, which furnished scarcely 15,000 seamen out of 20,000 inscribed in the year
1792. And even of this smaller number, there are many on whom little reliance can be
placed. The Catalans, for example, notwithstanding they arc good seamen, are very unfit
for ships of war, from their being accustomed to the luttin sails, with which they navigate
to the Baltic, and even as far as Spanish America, and consequently arc aukward on
board of vessels differently rigged. They are moreover lofty, and rebellious, and pre-
fer merchant ships, on board of which they meet with better treatment, and receive
larger pay.
To rate the number of sailors which Spain can furnish higher than 36,000 to 40,000,
would be an exaggenition. In 1790, when Spain was on the eve of a rupture with
England, she found it difficult to equip 32 sail of the line ; she might, however, send a
much larger number to sea, provided stie were able to man them. Let us now trace the
progress of the Spanish navy from the beginning of the reign of Charles III.
After the peace which followed the disastrous war of 1671, Spain had no more than
37 sail of the line, and about 30 frigates.
In 1770, she had 51 sail of ships, carrying from 112 to 58 guns ; 22 frigates, 8 her-
cas, 9 xebecs, and 12 other small vessels ; in all, 102 vessels of war.
In 1774, she had 64 sail of the line, 8 of which were three-deckers, 26 frigates, 9
xebecs, and 28 other small vessels ; total 14^.
In 177b, she possessed 67 siiil of the line, 32 frigates, besides smaller vessels ; in all,
163 ; and at the end of the war, notwithstanding her losses, she had nearly the same
number.
At the end of 1792, upon her declaring war, she had 80 ships of the line, 6 of which
unserviceable, and 14 in very bad condition. At this epoch, then, she had 60remaiiiing
to oppose to us. She lost four ships in this war. In that which succeeded with England,
she had greater losses to repair, and already her government is employed with great
activity in this department.
The complement of men on board Spanish vessels differs according to circumstances.
Properly there ought to be ten men to each gun, yet vessels of 74 guns have scarcely
650. At the end of 1792 some had no more than 500 ; and the scarcity of good sailors
frequently obliges them to be content with 300 men for their vessels of two decks.
But how comes it that Spain, in proportion to her population, has so few sailors ? Is
it not because the merchant service is the real nursery for the navy ? And the commerc<i
\.»
•I
'i
■^
43(i
iioi;ii(;oAKNi*s rriAVKts in spain.
ui' Spain is ratlkr iil a passive than active nature ; its interior navi(|;utiun hcinff rcduccii
ohnost to ii()iliinf>; and its tru(lin|!^ vchhcIm to nearly (he sumt' condition.
A HwMarsa^o its merchant vessels amounted to l)ct\vcen 4 und 500, of which Ca.
taloniu lurnishccl three fourths, und Biscay uhiiosl all the rest. What a diHerencc he.
tween this number and Uiut of F.nglund, who with :\ pomdation ^reatcr by no more than
lour or five millions, possessed before the war which has lately terminated 7000 merchant
vessels ; and with Holland, which with no more than a third part of her subjects, has 6,500
vessels. However, within a few years the number of Spanish traders has sensibly increas-
ed ; " circumstance imputable to the cstablishinj^ a free commerce with America.
To compensate for her deficiency of sailors to man her vessels of war, Snain has a ma<
rine inlaiitry, coniposed of twelve batt.ilions, each of six companies which should form
uccjrps of 12,384 men, divided amon)^ the three departments. But these battalions arc
far from bein^; complete. When 1 left Spain in 1793, the four battalions of Cartha*
gcna, lorexaujple, mustered no more than:2,300 men.
Besides these there is a particular corps of artillery, divided into twenty brigades,
which should consist of 3,320 men ; but at the epoch above adverted to, it was but
1,500 men strong for all the three departments.
There is also a society of pilots, divided aniong the departments, with schools of pi>
lotage in each.
In the reign of Ferdinand VI, the Spaniards adopted English principles in building
their ships. Don Jorge Juan, opc of the most able naval officers as well in theory as in
practice, had studied ship-buildiiy from its true source, and afterwards drew to Spain
some English ship-builders. When Charles III, came from Naples to take possession of
the vacant throne, he found the building of the Spanish ships entrusted to individuals of
a nation > 'hich had but too much power in the cabinet of his predecessor, and which at
that time was at war with France. An implacable enemy to England, ever since the
imperious lesson she gave him at Naples, and moreover religiously attached to the glory
of his house, he was not tardy in joining us. In this war he became u victim to his af-
fection for France. The English took from him the Havanna, and twelve ships of war
which were in that port. This check given to the Spanish navy was a new motive with
the monarch to put it upon a respectable footing. He renounced the English manner
of building, and requested of the court of France a French ship-builder. The duke dc
Choiseul sent him M. Gautier, who, although a young man, had already given proofs
of great talents in his profession. This stranger was looked upon while acting for the
navy, as M. Maritz had been while employed on the artillery. Spirit of party, national
prejudices, und more especially the jealousy of some individuals, created him, as they
hadf done M. Maritz, such difficulties as almost suppressed his zeal. The marquis d'Os-
sun, then ambassador from France, supported him in his experiments, and enabled him
to triumph over his enemies. He began his labours, and displayed in them equal acti-
vity and intelligence. His first efforts, however, were not followed by complete success.
The form of the vessels jf every rate which he constructed enabled them to sail with a
velocity until then unknown to the Spaniards ; but they were found not to have suf-
ficient room for the management of the guns, which made it very difficult to fight them
in bad weather. He has since improved his method to such a degree as to leave but
litUe to desire in that respect. A great part of the Spanish vessels employed in thr h^*.
war were built by M. Gautier ; and several of them excited the admiration of l/oth
French and English seamen. The Conception, built according to his plan, war. jud^.ti
by intelligent persons of both these nations, to be the finest vessel in Europe. But while
we do justice to the shape and solidity of the Spanish ships, it must be admitted that <)li
0017RCOANME 8 TRAVELS IN 31'AIN.
487
iprov.
jlthc
seamen exclaim with reason ngainst their hcuvincss ofsailin^f. This I have been told wi)>
owing to th( ir manner of rifiigin)]; and had stowage, which apjKurs prohahic, Hincc thov
taken in 1780 by admiral Rodney from iM. dc Lanj^arn, actiuirfd midtr the managcmrnt
of the ICnghHl), a celerity of which they were deemed incapable.
Gautier is not the sole author of the change. lie ha» formed artisti who share that
merit with him ; and Spain has national ship-builders, who, '*. ithout his aid, have impi
cd their art, andjwill render his loss less sensible to the Spanish navy. The displeasure ol
minister Castijon, formerly his friend, had for some years condennud M. (lauiicr to in-
activity ; and the court of France took this occasion to reclaim from her ally a ^lUbject
who seemed to have become useless. The king of Spain restored M. Ciautier to his
country, continuing the salary he enjoy'l in the Spanish navy. Ihit with the restriction
that he should again dedicate his talents to the service of Spain, if hereafter need should
require them. The revolution robbed him of this income. Gamier for all revenge
furthered it to the extent of hi- power, and was nigh perishing in midst of its storniN.
A sort of justice was done him by placing him in otlice, but in a situation less brilliuiU
than that which his talents and his sacrifices might justly claim. *i^
Since he left Spain 1 have been witness lu the regret which his departure occasioned,
even in those who had opposed or were hurt at hiti success, an Inch proves that with this
naiton, truly loyal and generous, justice utill gets the better of her prejudice againsl
foreigners.
M)' own experience has proved to me that this is exaggerated, or at least that it deserves
excuse. What nation, in the saint circumstances as Spain, would not have shewn nioic
of this odious sentiment? Can it be supposed when Louis XIV, pensioned learned foreign-
ers ; when he sought beyond his frontiers for renowned artists or skilful manufacturers,
thot he did not excite against them the hatred of the French, who in\agincd that they had u
greater right to his bounty ; or that their indignation did not manifest itself at the contempt
shewn their talents by a preference to foreign industry? In the retinue of the French
prince, coming to receive his crown, appears a crowd of foreigners, who (ill all the avenues
to the throne ; French favourites,! French vnlets de Chambres,! and French confessors. J
The princess Des Ursins and the French ambassadors reign by turn in the cabinet. A
Frenchman repairs to Spain to reform their finances ;|| and French generals are placed
at the head of their armies.^f Shortly after an Italian ecclesiastic,^^ invited by the sc-
*Hc died at Pariu in 1800, in o state of mediocrity upproachinp; want. Hud he reniuincd in Spain
he would have finished his days in case ; for there old servuntH are nevcrnc^;lccted, although theimcr*
vices be no lonacr needed nor even where they have reason to be diHsulisfiod with them.
t The marquis de Louville.
\ Almost aU the valets of Philip V, were French. During my first residence at Madrid I was ac-
quainted with two (Toussoint and Amand) who towards the close of his life enjoyed great credit, and in
whose arms he died. They were still alive when I left Spain in 1785. Thus by an uncommon destiny
they survived for forty years that favour which they enjovcd to no other end than to do all the good with-
in their power, particularly to their countrymen. Philip V, notwithstanding the lessons he received
from his grandfather, never ceased looking upon himself to be a Frenchman. I was told un anecdote by
one of his valets which he had frequently repeated to them, and which ut once shewed his good naturo
and attachment to his country. The return of the infanta, designed fur Louis XV, excited vexation
at the court of Spain which bordered on rage. On the first news of it, queen Isabella, ujore irritated
than any one, launched out into injurious language against the French, unci obtained from her too easy
spouse an order for all Frenchmen without exception to be banished from Spain. The order was just
signed when Philip V, calls for his valets, makes them open his wardrobes and gel ready his trunk'. In
the interval the queen comes in and asks the motive of these preparations. Do you not insiiit, said
Philip ingenuously, that every Frenchman should leave Spain. 1 am a Frenchman, and am puck ing up
for my journey. The queen smiled, imd the order was revoked.
$Le Pou D'Aubenton. ||M. Orry.
t The marshal de Tesse, the duke of Berwick, and the duke of Vendomf*.
•• The abbe Alberoni.
VOL. V, a s
i
1
iSS
nounroANNE s travfls in spaik.
rond wife of Philip \ , sivikrs the very pillars «)f tho monarchy, by the agitation which hiH
tiirbulmt rh;iraolcr excites in Knropc ; nor docs his disjifrace, the proper punishment uf
his tnmnltnons atlministration, till after a lonp^ time restore the Spaniards to their former
state. A Dutchman,* still more extravMj:;ant, plains the favour of the monarch, seizes
in one year on every <l!>;nity and every favour, and soon afterwards csca|)cs loiided with
the curves of the people, iMrryinR from Si>ain nothing but the stigma of a state crimi-
nal. Under the sueeetding motiarch two foreign iiationsf reign by side the throne :
an Irish minister} raises himself by that intrigue, of which the court was the theatre,
but by the easiness of his yoke, his being a foreigner is overlookal, and he preserves
his influence under the new sovereign, who <pnts the throne of Naples for that of Spain.
One of the Itali;;ns,^ who acecmpatucs the monarch, soon presides over the depart-
ment of finances ; and a few years afterwards another Italian ministerjl succeeds M.
Wall. The discipline of the infantry is reformed by an Irishmun,in whilst two French-
men improve,** one ti.e artillery, the other ft the building of ships. At London,
Stockholm, Paris, \'ienna, and Venice, the Spanish sovereign is represented by
foreigners.]::!: Strangers establish maiuifactures,H a'ld preside over the construction of
great ronds and canals,|||| direct sieges,1[ll cominand armies,*** cause plans of finance
to be adopted, fit and offer money to government upon the most advantageous tcrms.J JJ
In commercial places these arc still the persons who supplant the Spaniards by their acti-
vity and success. At Barcelona, Valentia, Cadiz, Bilboa, and other great trading cities,
the richest merchants arc foreigners. I have frequently heard the hatred they inspire in
Spain declaimed against. I confess, that if any thing has surprised me, it is the quict-
nesj with which the Spaniards tolerate them in their country, and the kind disposition
they have towards them, provided it be not damped by their haughty manners and in-
sulting behaviour : and should some of die natives look upon diem with an eye of envy,
or be offended at the concourse of fortunate strangers, whose success of every kind
seems incessantly to upbraid the Spaniards with idleness and ignorance ; would not this
be excusable by that attachment to national glory so natural and praise-worthy, and which
so justly deserves the tide of patriotism ?
However since the end of the last reign, Spaniards exclusively have filled all diose
situations occupied before by strangers. The dominion of Frenchmen, Irishmen, and
particularly of Italians, which was used to be tolerated with the least patience by the
Spaniards, isdraxving to its close ; and if the viccroyalty of Mexico, given to the Nea-
J ^litan marquis Branciforte, brother-in-law to the prince of the peace, be excepted,
and which in two years afterwards m as taken from him to be given to a Spaniard ; the
post of grand master of the queen's househcld, occupied by a Neapolitan in disgrace
at his o\^•n court, with a lieutenancy general held by a man, an Italian by the father's
side, a Fleming by the mother's, the prince of Castcl Franco who commanded the army
' Rippcrda.
t The English and ihe Italians ; the former by M. Keen, their ambassador ; the latter by the musi-
cian, FarincUi.
:|M. Wall. § The marquis of f^qullacc. || The marquis Grimaldi.
1i M. O'Reilly. •• M. Marctz. tt M. Gauticr.
II The prince Masscrano, the count dc Lascy, the marquis of Grimaldi, before he became mmister ;
the count dc Mahoni, the marquis de Squilace after his retreat from the ministry,
§§ At Valentia, Barcelona, Talverna, Madrid, he. |]j M. le Maur.
HH The same M. le Maur at Mahon ; M. d'Arcon at Gibi-allar.
**• The duke de Crillon at Mahon, and at the camp of St. Roche; th^ prince of Nassau on the float-
ing batteries, kc. &c,
ttt M. Cabarrus. \^\ The principal French commercial houses established at Madrid.
not' nf.o vN N j.'a 1 1! Avtr,r. in ai'AFN.
iSU
\ which hiH
lishmcnt of
heir former
irch, seizes
ojided with
itatc crinii-
lie throne :
he theatre,
c preserves
It of Spain,
he depart,
ccecds M.
vo French-
t London,
sented by
truction of
1 of finance
i terms.J JJ
• their acti-
Jing cities,
inspire in
the quiet-
disposition
:rs and in-
c of envy,
:very kind
lid not this
and which
I all those
limen, and
ICC by the
3 the Nea-
excepted,
liard; the
1 disgrace
he father's
1 the army
>y the musi-
le minister ;
on the fioat-
tfadrid.
which Spain opposed to lis on the hide of Hisciiy, and some ^rnrrai olfircrs, ur com*
manders of corps, Spaniards arc in possession of the principal favour of all the offices of
administration and nil diplomatic a|»pointnu'nts. * This is an additional pretext wrested
from disaflc'ction which in every coimtiy has owed its orif^in chiefly to similar circiim
fitances. How many the governments which have been ovtrtnrnrd or eiul;ingercd
through the dominion of foreigners, which dominion if it be any where tolerated must
indecn be mild. In I'Vancc there has beenii Mcdicis, Concini, Mazarin, and Law; in
Flanders a duke of Alba; in Switj^irlaiid a (leslcr; in Portugal, when for a short time
incorporated with Spain, the agents ol'that power; S|)ain itsi-lf has had an AlbcToni, u
Uippcrda, a Scpiilhuii. Sovereigns arc most inclined in fact to give full confidence to
those who owe their all to them, who have no other country than their court ; no pro-
perty but their favour. Do they rightly calculate their interests ? Do they not rnther
thus invite the dangers they would shun ? More prudent soverei^^ns have less mis-
trust; and since thcv must have subjects, deem it best to attjif h them by affection-
This is the only Machiavelism which such permit themselves, and which most willingly
philosophy allows ; this is the only true means in short to secure the permanency of then
power.
With this they may manage without foreign favourites ; inefHcierit ramparts against
the fury of the populace, objects almost always odious, they arc more adapted to provoke
than to calm a tumult. In the insurrection of 1775, did the Walloon Guards protect
Charles III, from the shame of flying precipitately from the capital ? Were the Swiss
Guards able to save Louis XVI ?
But, let us resume what remains to be said respecting the Spanish navy.
The three divisions in Europe of the navy of S|)ain, are not the only places where
.ships of war are built. There arc dock yards at the Havanna ; and a fund of seven hun-
dred thousand piastres was some time since established to carry on the works. At this
station vessels arc built at a more moderate cost also than in Europe.
Spain and her colonies might furnish her navy with all the ship-timber necessary for
that service. In 1785 persons, competent to determine, were of opinion that her navy,
by means of her colonies alone, might be augmented fifty sail, and at the same time, re-
ceive from it materials for the maintenance of the remainder. The resources which it
possesses in Europe are as follow.
Andalusia, which formerly produced the best white oak, is now exhausted. Its forests
yield not a sufficiency even for the repairs necessary in the department of Cadiz ; the
wood which they require for that purpose being brought thence from Italy, and some-
times cedar from the Havanna.
The department of Carthugena has no oak within its reach. The nearest to it are the
forests of white oak in Catalonia.
The department of Ferrol is supplied from the mountains of Burgos, Navarre and the
Asturias. But the forests of the former are greatly thinned. T'he two latter countries
are well wooded, but the oak is of a bad quality.
This scarcity of wood in the metropolitan country, is principally owing to the thought-
less conduct of government, who about the year 1756, before rouds had been made for
the transport of them, caused trees to be felled sufficient for the construction of 122
ships of the line. No more could be brought to service at the time than was enough
• The prince of Castel Franco before mentioned must be excepted, who h&s lately been deputed am-
bassador to Vienna ; and the marquis de laGrua, a Neapolitan, nephewof the marquis of Brancifbrte.
who after residing at the court of Sweden is at present an envoy at Parma. /
3 N 2 ' >^ • -f
460
BOVRGOANNE^S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
for 50 vessels ; part of the remainder, through neglect, rotted where they were fallen, and
the remainder were stolen.
On the other hand, the colonies possess great resources ; Cuba still contains a num-
ber of cedars in its interior, notwithstanding many people, judging from its coast, esteem
it exhausted. Near the coast of Cumana, os well as there, grows plenty of wood fit for
ship building. In 1776 it was in contemplation to fell some of the trees. The death of
the minister of the navy, the Bailly d'Arriaga, caused the project to fail. How much
are those governments to be pitied whose useful enterprises depend on the life of a single
man.
Spain however lies still at the mercy of the powers of the north for her supply of
masts. According to the account which the bank of St. Charles gave to the public in
1788, it appears that, from the first of December 1784 to the first of December 1785,
upwards of eight millions and a half of rials were paid for ma<its alone.
Spain is still obliged to employ Dutch vessels. But she will be able to do without
them, if the direct commerce she has for some years carried on in the Baltic continues to
prosper.
She is still nearer to do without depending for her supply of hemp on foreign coun-
tries. For a longtime the North supplied her with all that her navy required; latterly
she has received a quantity furnished by Navarre, Arragon, and particularly by Grenada ;
so that almost all the navy is fitted out with Spanish hemp ; the department of Cartha-
gena alone importing mostly from Italy that of which its cables are made. Our seamen,
as well in the American war as in the course of the present year (1802) during their
confinement at Cadiz, had sufficient means afforded them of appreciating the goodness
of its quality.
Doubtless Spain has yet much to do towards perfecting her navy, but what advance
towards it has she not made within this century ! Under Philip IV, she purchased from
the Dutch, vessels ready built, and the cordage necessary for her fleets and galleons ;
from the French her sail-cloths ; copper from the Germans ; tin and lead for the service
of the artillery from the English ; and galleys from the Genoese. She suflfered her tim-
ber to rot upon the ground, and neglected the culture of hemp. Attentive to her mines
of Mexico and Peru, which promoted her deterioration, she neglected her mines at home,
whence she might have drawn her means of defence. The evil became still greater un-
der the reign of Charles II. Spain was then like himself feeble and languishing. When
her situation at this period is considered, one is surprised at the diflferent state to which
she has been raised by three succeeding sovereigns. Charles V, who left it in such full
prosperity, would not know it for the same now, it is true ; but his imbecile, his last de-
scendant would still less recollect it again.
She at least possesses a navy which places her on a level with the different maritime
powers. In the absence of war in Europe, her continual quarrels with the Barbary pow-
ers afford her frequent opportunities of exercising her sailors. But in these short and
paltry wars, it is different for her officers to acquire any reputation. Barcelo, who from
owner of a bark attained the highest posts in the navy, is almost the only one who has ac-
quired any great reputation for these expeditions.
Of these regencies iwo in particular continually employ part of the forces of Spain as
well naval as military : I mean Algiers and Morocco. Their naval power, it is true,
is not very tremendous, and were it not for the supply of ammunition and naval stores
afibrded them by powers which possess a desire for commerce being respected, they would
be almost destitute of the means of equipping their vessels. Among other importations
from different states they obtain from Marseilles itself the timber for building their sloops.
BOUUCOANNE S TRAV£LS IN SPAIN.
461
alien, and
IS a num-
st, esteem
3od fit for
e death of
ow much
)f a single
supply of
public in
)er 1785,
3 without
itinues to
jn coun-
; latterly
^renada ;
f Cartha-
seamen,
ing their
g^oodness
advance
sed from
j^alleons ;
B service
her tim-
er mines
at home,
!ater un-
When
to which
luch full
last de-
fiaritimt;
ry pow-
lort and
lio from
has ac
ipain as
is true,
1 stores
^ would
rtations
sloops.
Some years back the navy of the emperor of Morocco was reduced to 22 or 23 ships,
good and indifferent, the largest of which mounted no more than 22 guns. But its army
IS respectable, at least as to number, since every subject of 12 years of age and upwards
is a soldier. With this army, badly disciplined, and not over courageous, the emperof
has several limes unsuccessfully attempted to carry the fort of Metille belonging to the
Spaniards, and situated at the eastern extremity of his dominions.
The Algerincs are, or at least have been for a long time, an equally inveterate but
much more formidable enemy. Five years ago they possessed 5 sacties of from 24 to
34 guns, 3 xebecs of 10, 18, and 20 guns, 4 demi-gallies, and 3 galliots. With this
force they were continually tormenting the Spaniards until 1784 ; when the court of
Madrid, losing all patience, and having conr^luded a peace with England, resolved upon
attempting the destruction of this nest of pirates. She desnned for this expedition a
part of the naval stores and artillery intended for the projected attack, in union with us,
upon Jamaica; which preparations were rendered useless by the peace of 1783. Algiers
was bombarded by admiral Burcelo for eight successive days. Nearly four hundred
houses were damaged; but the buildings belonging to government remained nearly un-
injured. The attacking squadron consisted of seventy sail, four of which were of the
line, and six frigates. Algiers lost one gun-boat only ; but this useless expedition cost
the Spaniards 400 men and 15001b. of gunpowder. The Algerines had to oppose them
no more than 2demi-gaUies of 5 guns each, a felucca of 6, two xebecs of 4 guns each,
and 6 gun-boats carrying a 12 and a 24 pounder.
The expedition of the succeeding year under the directions of the same admiral Bar-
celo was still more fruitless, notwithstanding three other powers, Portugal, Naples, and
Malta, each joined with part of their forces against the Algerines; the whole armament
consisted of l.'^O sail. The Algerines defended themselves with 46 gun-boats, 4 bombs,
three cariasses armed, and three galliots. They lost three or four of their gun-boats,
had 300 men wounded, but satisfied the combined fleet, that a still greater force was re-
quisite to overcome them: and that this nest of thieves, if it merited the indignation of
all commercial powers, did not at the same time deserve their scorn.
In the interval between these two expeditions, the anger of the government had so far
cooled as to induce it to enter into negotiations for peace, which, jealous of our connec-
tions with Algiers, she took especial care to can y on without our knowledge. The
treaty failed, and the second expedition took place. The Spanish minister had resolved
upon repeating this attack annually, until the regency of Algiers, harassed and exhaust.
ed, should at length be obliged to crouch to Spain. He however suffered himself, at
the representations of the officers who had been engaged, to be dissuaded from this pro.
ject ; and negodations with Algiers were renewed through the means of the count d'En-
pilly ^thcy were followed up and concluded by M. de Mazaredo, who was sent to Al-
giers when the party undesirous of peace saw it about to be effected by a foreigner,
and was inclined to ravish that honour from his hands. The Spanish negotiator sur.
passed the expectations of his party, and little was wanting of his falling into disgrace for
his too rapid progress. That these different negotiations were all carried on, unknown
to us I will not presume to say, for that would have been difficult, but without any no.
tice thereof to France. The Spanish government was more than suspicious that the
trade of Marseilles had furnished the Algerines with their principal succour, and that not
without the privity of the court of Versailles. However that may be, the gold of Spain
made more impression on the barbarians, than what their bombs had done. Florida
Blanca, who some months before had boastingly stated, and caused to be printed in
the Madrid gazette, that *' Spain would teach th^ other powers of Europe, by the ex-
•iC>-2
BOUnnOANNE S TRAVELS Itt Sl'AlN,
ample she would give, to stoop no longer to be their tributaries;" this minister, follow-
ing the common routine, thought that he rendered his country a service in purchasing a
peace of the regency of Algiers, at the price of 14 millions of rials. Ah, M. de Moridii
blanca, j ou presided over the Spanish monarchy for fifteen years. Your administration
was not destitute either of splendour or good fortune ; you had an attachment to your
country, which was closely allied to an haired against all others ; you rendered it ser-
vice, if not with a profundity of understanding, yet with loyalty and disinterestedness ;
the grandeur of your sentiments caused the moroscness and irascibility of your temper
to be overlooked ; you acquired a title to the esteem of every one by the magnanimity
with which you supported disgrace, to which I myself liave been witness, and which the
cause I served obliged me to approve ; but you must allow, that your coiuhict with respect
to Algiers was not among the wise or brilliant atchievements of your adniinistration.
. Since the peace concluded in 1785, Spain has had other disputes with Algiers ; and,
perceiving that the possession of Oran and Mazalquivir, situated on her shores, would
cvor be an inexhaustible source of quanxl, that as well they were no useful property,
and that their (losition favoured desertion among her troops ; Oran as well having ex-
perienced two scourges at once, a siege by the bey of Mascara, and an earth(|uake,
which had reduced it to u heap uf ruins ; Spain, at length, towards the end of 1791, de-
termined on renouncing them both in favour of the dey of Algiers, reserving to herself
some commercial advantages.
Thus did these famous conquests of cardinal Ximencs fall again under die dominion
of barbarians. On the 26th of February 1792, six thousand live hundred men, which
formed almost all the Spanish population, evacuated Oran, marched round the bay, and
proceeded to Malzaquivir, whence they embarked for Carihagena. Every thing was
carried away in the sight of the Moors, who shortly after entered the place. Oran could
never be defended but at a great expence, and was not of the slightest utility ; at least
four thousand men were required to man its walls, and they were scarce sufficient ; there
were four trenches in an amphitheatre, for the purpose of guarding a spring»of water,
without which the garrison could not subsist, and which the Moors had frequently at-
tempted to cut off from it. Under these circumstances, Spain shewed her wisdom in
abandoning both the places : she would have done well if, at the same time, she had gi-
ven up her other stations on the coast of Africa which nothing but vain glory can induce
her to retain, and which are only burthensome to her. She maintains there, particularly
at Ceuta, several thousands of galley slaves, called presidarios. Of those who drag their
chains after them naked, and covered with rags, there are from four to five thousand ; the
rest who are not near so numerous, enjoy a degree of liberty, and go in search of labour.
Both receive alike a very trifling allowance for their support ; and among this refuse of
tlie human race are confounded together, to thedisgraiTe of reason and equity, assassins,
criminals of every description, smugglers, deserters, and other unfortunate beings, who
expiate in this contagious society crimes of a much less heinous nature.
The navy it is which brought on this digression respecti.ig the Barbary powers, and
the presidencies of Africa. It as well naturally leads to commerce; which cannot be
maintained without it, and which feeds its protectress. It shall be the subject of the
following chapter.
BOURGOANNE's travels in SPAIN.
463
CHAPTER VI.
and
ON TUB COMMKRCn OF SPAIN IN CKNERAL. REGULATIONS nKSPKCTINO CORN.
COASTINO TRADE. COMMERCE IN EUROPE.
INTERIOR TRADE.
THE commerce of Spain has more branches possibly than that of any other country
on the globe. It has immense regions to supply ; possesses a great number, and a large
quantity of territorial productions fit for distant exportation, some of which are much
sought after, and some cannot be dispensed with. It acted a principal part at the time
the Spanish monarchy shone in its splendour, and foreign merchants entered deeply into
the interior to exchange their merchandise for the produce and manufactures of the
countr}'. Under the successes of Charles V, these golden days had flown, and Spain
for a longtime carried on no other than a passive and disadvantageous trade. At pre-
sent, notwithstanding her agriculture and manufactures are far from being at their ze-
nith, it may be safely aflHrmed, that if she hud only herself to supply with such merchan-
dise as she stands in need of, the value of her imports would certainly be at least equalled
by that of her exports ; so that the disadvantageous balance of trade against her, in her
commerce with Europe, is wholly occasioned by her American possessions, and the ne-
cessity she lays under of obtaining from other states those articles which her own manu-
factories do not supply in greater abundance than what her home consumption requires ;
and such articles, natural or fabricated, as are not produced within herself, to answer the
immense demand of her colonies. It is true this is compensated by the produce of her
mines, which furnish her with means to answer the balance ; whence it must be evi-
dent, that these colonies are not altogether so burthensome to Spain as some are apt to
imagine ; and the less so, from their presenting an incentive to agriculture and industry,
in the certainty which they afford of a consumption, and a ready market for the increase
of quantity, consequent upon enlarged exertions.
Many readers will possibly look upon this assertion as paradoxical. Fifty years ago
it would have been erroneous. It is more than probable now that Spain appears to be
awakened from her lethargy ; and stands as a fact with those who have made the ex-
tent of her actual resources their study.
In the first place, she possesses all the necessaries of life in abundance. We have
spoken of her wools, and her cloths, which, although at present not brought to perfec-
tion, are yet sufficient for clothing her population ; and, when we treat of Valentia,
we shall see what resources she derives from her silk. Her brandies, rich wines, fruits,
barilla, soda, and oils, form a considerable branch of exporta'.ion from her eastern and
southern coasts. She makes all the common wines necessary for the consumption of the
kingdom ; and agriculture, if more encouraged, would furnish corn sufficient for home
consumption, leaving a surplus for exportation. Notwithstanding the present backward
state of the country, somt of the provinces, Andalusia and Old Castile for example,
produce more corn than they can consume ; but the difficulty of inland carriage ren-
ders this fertility almost useless to the rest of the kingdom. With few roads, not one
navigable river, not one canal in full activity, carriage is necessarily very expensive, and
very slow. It is well remembered at Madrid, even now, that about twenty-five years
ago the capital, from some neglect, being in want of bread, and a sudden supply be-
coming absolutely requisite, the ministry were obliged to employ 30,000 beasts of bur-
then, in order to secure a receipt of 2500 fanegas* per day. Spain is therefore at
times dependant upon foreigners for a supply of provisions, even when some of its dis-
* Five fanegas make a quarter of wheat.
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464
•bourgoanne's travels in stain.
tricts enjoy a suj)crfluity. But, notwithstanding the cry of scarcity, she never needs
more than a thirtieth part above her produce. Of this I subjoin a proof.
Her whole consumption may be computed at (30,000,000 fancgas ; at least the fol-
lowing calculation will make this computation plausible.
Sixty million fancgas, if the fanega be esteemed to weigh OOlbs. will give 5,400,000,000
pounds of wheat, which, divided by the population 10,500,000, will give for each in-
dividual 5201bs. nearly or less than a pound and a half per day. This statement may
be considered as not aflbrding a sufficiency, by nations which, like the French, reckon
that each individual will consume two pounds of bread per day, hut a different opinion
will be formed, if it be considered that, first, the fanega most freciucntly weighs more
than 901bs. ; secondly, that the population is scarcely ten and a half millions ; thirdly,
that maize is used both mixed with wheat and by itself in many parts of Spain ;
and, fourthly, that Spaniards are not near so voracious as the French of the article
of bread ; so that the consumption of the country will be rather overrated than otherwise
at 60,000,000 of limcgas.
On the other hand, the forty ship loads at most which she imports can yield no more
than 2,000,000 of fancgas ; yet this quantity is sufficient for her momentary necessities,
which a false panic has exaggerated. Hence Spain, were she left entirely to herself,
could not experience a famine. What nation could not upon emergency, without any
great effort, diminish her common consumption a thiitieth part ? After what occurred in
France in 1794 and 1795 this cannot be doubted.
Nevertheless, upon the most slight appearance of dearth in Spain as well as in other
countries, no other remedy is thought of than a prohibition of exportation ; n measure
at least useless, and frequently disastrous, on account of its depriving fertile provinces of
a certain market, which ought rather to meet with encouragement to induce them to
combat successfully the obstacles resulting from peculiar position.
There is yet no permanent law respecting the commerce of grain. Up to the reign
of Charles HI, its exportation was almost uninterruptedly prohibited, audits price was
established at a fixed rate. The inconvenience of this restriction was at length discovered,
and M. de Campomanes, who was then fiscal of the council of Castile, caused it to be
abrogated. In 1765 it was established by a royal mandate, that the interior commerce
of grain should be absolutely free ; that it should be permitted to store it in public maga-
zines, whence, to supply pressing necessities, it might be taken at the current price ; that
leave should be granted to take grain from the magazines, when, after three successive
markets, it should have continued at a certain price ; that corn from abroad might be
introduced and stored in magazines within the countr}' as far as six leagues from the
sea, &c. This regulation shortly after experienced some modifications. The exportation
of grain was even entirely prohibited in 1769 ; but the regulation of 1765 was wholly
re-established in 1783.
These variations must naturally tend to increase the timidity and indolence of cultiva-
tors. To encourage them to derive all possible advantages from their lands, a more
permanent law is necessary, one better observed. For that which permits exportation
is incessantly eluded by the caprice or avarice of the alcaldes and governors of the fron<
tiers ; and when nothing prevents its application there are still many formalities to go
through before the exportation can take place. Exportation is therefore rare, and
carried on but to a trifling degree in the manner authorised by the law. The slowness
and expence of carriage in Spain, is an insurmountable obstacle to the smuggling of that
quantity of corn from the kingdom which is supposed to leave it illegally. On the other
hand, it is well ascertained, that grain finds its way into Spain by different channels ; Gal-
BOURGOAWNE's travels in Sl'AIN,
465
and
licia and Asturia frequently receive corn from abroad, although the ptoplo there con.
sumc a great deal of maize; Biscay takes sonic from the province of Alva, from Na-
varre and Arragon, and sometimes from foreign nations, by the way ol' St. Sebastian ;
all the eastern coast of Spain is in continual want of suppl) ; tlu- kingdom of Valentiu
receives it from abroad, when La Manclui, in which corn almost constantly abounds,
cannot furnish it with a sufficient quantity ; and, lastly, Andalusia, notwithstanding its
fertility, receives grain from other countries by means of its ports of Cadiz and Malaga.*
The exportation of grain cannot take place with advantage, except by the frontiers of
Portugal. This kingdom seldom reaps enough for its own consumption, and the neigh-
bouring Spanish provinces have frequently a superabundance.
There is no considerable excess of corn in any province of Spain, except in Old
Castile, and this is sent to St. Andero and some neighbouring ports in Gallicia, Asturia,
Andalusia, and even to France, as happened in 1782 and 1783. However exportation
is greatly in opposition from the rooted prejudices of Old Ciistilc, which however ought
not to weigh against experience; since the regulation of 17G5 was justified by an in-
crease of almost a third in the produce.
About the same time, a measure was ad'^pted for the encouragement of agriculture,
by instituting the Positos. These arc magazines of corn established in upwards of five
thousand cities, towns, and villages in the kingdom, to insure subsistence to the people
against all accidents, and to prevent the alarms which in these delicate matters are often
equivalent to real evils. When it is intended to establish one of these positos in any place,
the municipal coqis (ayuntamicnto) obliges every inhabitant who has a field, either in
fee or at a quit-rent, to contribute thereto a certain number of fanegas. The year fol-
lowing the inhabitant takes back what he has furnished, and substitutes for it somewhat
more ; and thus in the following years, until the whole of the different increased quan-
tities deposited, which are called creces, has sufficiently filled the magazine. But this
period is retarded at the will of avarice, and there are icw positos in Spain, the manage-
ment of which does not enrich the administrators at the expence of the poorer classes of
the people. However, for some years back great pains have been taken to remedy these
abuses, and establish the positos according to their original destination, that they may
tend to the encouragement of cultivators, and, if possible, a part of the increase be ap-
plied to the assistance of those who may be in want of grain for sowing their lands.f
Besides these public magazines there are the magazines of corn established in several
places, by charitable individuals, for furnishing poor husbandmen with the means of
sowing their lands. There are likewise at Valentia and Malaga other beneficent estab-
lishments whose object is the encouragement of agriculture. These are named erarios,
and consist of funds destined to make advances in money to labourers, for a year only.
These funds were taken from the produce of the spolios y vacantes. J
But all these aids, all these palliatives, which rather demonstrate good will than intelli-
gence, are insufficient for the vivification of agriculture. Its languor is the result of a ra-
* V&lentia imports the grain requisite for its consumption mostly from Italy and Barbary. What it
receives from La Mancha is at a higher price, on account of there beinj; no other mode of transport-
ing it but by mules; in peace it is not so dear aa in war, on account of the muleteers resorting more
to Valentia for salt cod, which is an almost indiiipensabic aliment in their country ; in war time they
have no back carriage ; add to this, it frequently happens that the harvests in La Mancha fail from
droughts, on this account Valentia has no safe dependance on tliis country for its supply.
t This resource of poor farmers was dried up during the last war; the king having seized upon
the positos to provision the army, promising restoration at a more propitious period of this spolia-
tion, to which he was driven by circumstances.
\ But they are particularly of late very badly managed.
VOL. v. 3 o
a.
I
460
BOUR(;OANNE 3 IKAVftLS IN SPAIN.
dicnl evil, wliich will not be exterminated even when all the modes of facilitating^ com-
munication shall become established. In Spain, individual properties are too consider-
able, the country too little peopled, and a number of circumstances tend to discourage
the cultivators. The mention of one will be sufficient The priviliges of the mesta,
which extend to the proprietor whose sheep arc fed on his own f^rounds, obliges him to
leave his fields open in all seasons ; so that from the instant the grain is sowed to the
period of his sowing again, his lands belong less to himself than to the public.^
Were agriculture more encouraged, what a source of wealth would it not be for
Spain ! Nothing can surpass the natural fertility of manv of its provinces. Its grain is
of the flncst quality. Wheat is reaped among them which, passing through the mill,
loses no more than 5 per cent, by conversion into flour, while northern wheats lose
15 per cent. Hence arises a notable difl'erence in the estimation and price of the two
descriptions of wheat. The whc .s of Andalusia have been known to fetch double the
price at Seville which foreign wheats have been sold for at Cadiz.
Waiting until government shall give life to the interior of Spain by establishing roads
and canals, its connnerce chiefly consists of wine and oil, which are carried in leathern
bottles by mules or asses from one province to another ; in grain, of which, in like man*
ner by the aid of beasts of burden, the superfluity of one district is transferred to an-
other ; and particularly in wool sent from the sheep-folds and washing places of the two
Castiles to the ports of *he northern coast. Materials for the manufactories and mer-
chandise which pass from the ports or frontiers into the interior parts of the kingdom,
are transported thither by die same expensive conveyance.
Spain is not much flirther advanced in the coasting trade. Excepting the vessels of
Catalonia and those of Biscay, the carrying trade alon^ the coast is almost wholly in the
hands of the French, Dutch, and English ; three nations which have the advantage of
being more active, and who understand how to navigate their vessels at a less expence
and with fewer hands than the Spaniards. What has hitherto obliged Spain to employ
a greater number of sailors, is the state of perpetual war she is in against the Moors of
Barbary, which has besides the inconvenience of diminishing the confidence in her flag.
Its government has however recently felt the necessity of obviating this principal obstacle
to the prosperity of her navigation in the Mediterranean Sea.
But it is more particularly in foreign commerce that Spain acts but a passive part. I
shall soon convince my readers of this by taking a view of the coasts.
In the first place, those of Catalonia are an exception. But few of the reproaches
alledged against the Spaniards are applicable to the Catalans. The port of Barcelona
exports its silks, middling cloths, and cottonades, itsindianas, wines, brandies, and other
productions ; and if we wish to form an opinion of the part the Catalans take in this
trade, we must attend to the circumstance, that in 1682, of six hundred and twenty-eight
vessels which entered Barcelona, three hundred and seventeen belonged to Spain. It
is true, silks from Lyons, stockings from Nimes, several kinds of stufllj and cottons, in
spite of the prohibition, and particularly dried cod, an article for which Spain is yet tri-
butary to the English in the sum of 3,000,000 of piastres annually, pass into Catalonia
by the same port.
* The impediments to agriculture arc exposed in a very luminous manner by Don Gaspard Mclcpier
de Jovellanos, in a piece which forms part of the volume of Memoirs published by the Patriotic Socie-
ty of Madrid in 1V96. The remedies are indicated therein as well as the evils themselves ; but the
good wishes of a citizen, equally estimable for his zeal as his talents, trench upon the interests of so
many as to afford no prospect of any speedy completion.
BOUUOOANNE's TK.Wf.I-S Iff SPAIN.
467
•vl'
Remarkable singularity in the history of commt roc ! that a Protestant nation should
furnish u Catholic kingdom with an article, which that natio * only can prepare accord-
ing to the taste of the consumers, by fetching from their own coasts* the silt nenssary
to cure the fish taken upon the banks of Newfoundland, an island, disrovtred by the Spa-
niards ; and as if this species of servitude were irrevocably decreed by fate, all the at-
tempts hitherto made to substitute fish taken on the coasts of Hiscay and Asturia rcsemb
ling English cod have been ineflectual ; and have proved that laws, policy, luid even in.
terest disappear before the caprices of taste.f
The other ports of Catalonia are much in the sanic situation as that of Barcelona. Tar-
ragona, and the neighbouring ports receive in addition some articles of necessity, and
export dry fruits. Tortosji exports or imports wheat, according as the harvests of Ar-
ragon and Catalonia are good or bad ; but the principal article of w.sportation from this
port is pot>ash.
A considerable commerce is also carried on in the ports upon the coast of N'aientia,
and chiefly with France. The French send to Valeiuia linens, ^voollens, luirdwar .•, spi
ceries, and grain, to almost as great an amount as the wines, wool, dried fruits, pot-ash,
and barilla, which they take from thence. They fetch from Candia the wool used In
the manufacturers ofLanguedoc undKlbcuf, and carry with them French cloths, silks,
linens, hardware, 8(c. The Finglish also carry thither their cloths, and the Dutch ship
from thence the brandies of the country. Alicant has been, up to the present time, the
most commercial city in Spain, and its port that most frequented by national bottoms.
Of nine hundred and sixty-one ships which entered it in 1782, six hundred were Span-
ish, and most of them Catalans.:]: The abundant production of its neighbourhood of
wines, brandy, almonds, annisecd, cordage, salt, saflron, he. with about five thousand
tons of barilla, of which four.fifths is exported by the French, and the remainder by the
English ; these productions are exported to foreign countries from Alicant in greater
abundance than from any other Spanish port. Its port, a large and safe roadsted but
not deep, is a depot for all merchandise coming from Mediterranean ports designed for
Spain.
Alicant suffered considerably in the last war with England ; its port was little frequented
unless by neutrals, who came to take in ladings of the productions of the country. In
enumerating the objects of exportation from this city, a species of cochineal, known
under the name of grana, must not be omitted which is used with nearly the same ad'
vantage as that of America, although inferior. It is a mass of small colouring insects
sufficiently resembling those of the real cochineal. They are collected upon the oak
tree (roble) which abounds in the neighbourhood ofBussots near to Alicant.
The salt which bears the name of this town is not properly speaking a production of
its territory. It is collected from two ponds in the neighbourhood of each other, but
which have no communication with the sea ; they are called La Mata and Torre Vecchia,
* The salt with which the English salt their cod is brought from St. Ubcs and Alicant : whither
their ships sometimes come in ballast to load with salt, thence to proceed to Newfoundland.
t The consumption of English cod was greatly diminislied during thr last war, although neutral
vessels brought quantities to Spain under tJie title of French cod ; the '.accalur of Norway has been
substituted for English cod in different parts of the kingdom, particularly at Barcelona, where it is
preferred, but in almost e veiy other part of Spain, although not so good as the baccalar, there is a mark-
ed predilection in favour of English cod.
I In iLi years immediately following this port was not frenucnted by near so many national ships.
The two last wars have every where suspended the activity or the Spanish navy. But in one year as
many as eight hundred Swedes had arrived there. The custom-house of Alicant is consequently the
most productive one the monarchy can boast.
3 o 2
I
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468
BOURGOAhfNE'u TRAVBLI IN SPAIN.
and arc to hv soin hnlf way between Alicaiit and Cartlia^ena. The simple cvuponttiuti
excited by n burning; sun covers their siiri'aee with a foam, which is gathered in (he
month of August diirinf^ dry weather ; early rain;*, however, sometimes ruin the harvest.
The ponds ol" I^a Mata and Torre Veeehia are two sources ol" salt almost inexhaustible,
and sutlicicnt of themselves to furnish the whole of Kuropc with that commodity. Their
annual produce, which is from twenty to forty million pounds, is carried to Alicant,
where tnc nations of ihe North come to fetch it, particularly the Knglish, to whom it is
absolutely necessarv for s;ilting their lish, and the Swedes, who annually import 30,U00
casks of 3 cwt. each.
The wines of Alicnnt are of diftercnt descriptions. The principal and the only one
much known out of Spain is a rich red wine, called Tent. Besides this they have one,
but of which very little is made, that is white and of muscaline flavour ; and another
ctUk.d d'Aloque, a common wine, some of which is exported to the neighbouring pro*
vinccs, to Cadiz and to Gibraltar. Their red sweet wines, which, when young, arc of a
very deep red colour, are sometimes imported into France for Uourdeaux, where they
are employed in giving body and colour to claret.
Almost all the wines called Alicant are made in the neighbourhood of that town. The
vineyards begin at about half a league from it, in a canton known by the name of Huerta
de Alicant, which owes its surprising fertility to a neighbouring pond, whose water serves
for its irrigation. This pond, which belongs to the king, is surrounded with a wall
sixty feet nigh, and wide enough for three carriages to drive abreast upon it, is a rem*
nantof the labours ofUic Moors, who, in every part of Spain left traces of their indus-
try.
To Carthagcna the English, Dutch, and Neapolitans carry merchandise of all kinds,
and return loaded with silk, wool, cordage, pot-ash, and barilla.
Almeria is a small port, the principal commerce of which is in the hands of the French,
whose ships carry thither the productions of their manufactures, and return loaded with
lead, pot-ash, 8cc.
Wine and fruits are exported from Velez Malaga, and Marbella, mostly in foreign
bottoms.
Malaga has a very considerable commerce, the advantage of which is entirely in favour
of Spain, but wid) little profit to its navigation. The English, who are in possession
of the greatest part of the trade, carry thither woollens and great quantities of hardware ;
the Germans linen, the Dutch spice, cutlery, laces, &c. These nations, those of die
North, and Italy, export to the amount of two millions and a half of piastres in wines,
fruits, sumach, pickled anchovies, oil, &c. and all they carry thither amounts only to
about a million and a half. The Spaniards themselves take so little interest in the ship-
ping, which a similar extent of commerce must require, that in 1792, of the crowd of
vessels which entered and sailed from Malaga, scarcely sixty were national.
Cadiz, the commerce of which I shall siK-ak of at some length in anotlier place, is a
striking proof of the inactivity of Spanish navigatior. Scarcely a tenth of the vessels
which enter there belong to Spain. Latterly, howevei , the Spaniards have increased in
activity at this port more than any other of Spain.
The neighbouring little ports of St. Lucar and St. Mary are in miniature what Cadiz
is at length.
If we pass from the coasts of Andalusia to the northern coast of Spain, we shall find
the French, English, and Dutch in possession of the trade from Vigo, Ferrol, and parti-
cularly from Corunna, which mostly consists in importation ; for the pilchards, cattle,
and common linens, the only articles Gallicia has to spare, serve to pay the balance due
IIOt/UGOANNt'S IR.\V1,I.S IK IPAIN.
469
to the ncif^hl)oiirinn; provinces. Corunna owes to the rci^n of CharKs III, a trifling ex ■
portatioii trade, wlucli it ii.is to America by the packet-boats that sail every nioiilh tor
the Havaniui, ami every two nioiiths for Hmrios Ayrcs. These were tif^hteen in luim
ber, when the warf)f 177!) befj;in. Several fell into the hands of the eixiny, but were
afterwards n-placcd. The conviyanre of |)aeketsand passengers is the principal olneet
of their institution ; but it occasionally furnishes the mcansof exportation to the produe<
tions of Gallieia. They employ about athousjiul sailors, and enliven the circumjacent
countries. At this instant tlure is at C'orutma for their perimlical communication five
merchant frigateb instead of eii^ht, which there were in 1796; one of thae hundred and
ninety tons, and four ol a hundred and twenty ; three brijrantincs and a corvette. It is as
well assisted by four vessels of from eij^jhty to a htuidred tons, and two goleltas from Porto
Rico.
During the war which Spain waged against I' ranee in conjunction with the Knglish,
she established a provisional courier once a week for lalmoutli, by which means she ob-
tained n nipid communication with all the north.
Upon the coast of Aslurias there are eighteen ports scarcely known to have a name,
the trade of which is almost exclusively in the hands of the Dutch. A little before the
American war the English and French, who had been driven from thcin for some years,
appeared there again with linens, woollens, and small ware. Some vessels from the
country however sail to France and England in search of what is necessary to supply the
wants of the province; and since the establishment of a free commerce with America,
the trade of Gijon, the most important of these ports, begins to acmiire some activity.
The country adjacent to the Asturias is called die Montanasdc Burgos ; and is one of
the districts of Spain the most unprovided with resources. Go\ernn)ent, considering
this, permitted that district to receive the necessaries of life duty-free. The treasury
was not long before it repented of the concession, under favour of which nil sorts of
foreign merchandise being introduced by the ports of this coast, administration has re-
cently taken measures to prevent future abuses. Hence actsofrigf)ur, and even of ma-
levolence have been put in practice against foreigners, particularly the French, of all the
people of Europe, that which before the rupture between the two powers seemed to enjoy
m respect ol this trade the most exclusive privileges.
Saint Andero is the principal of these ports ; it receives by about a hundred French
vessels from their western ports, every thing which they can furnish for its consumption.
These ships return loaded with wool for the manufactures of France, and corn for the
other Spanish provinces, and sometimes for those of their own kingdom. The English
export Irom Saint Andero the same articles, in exchange for cod, oil, fish, 8cc. and employ,
in this commerce, about forty vessels. Some Dutch and Hamburgh vessels trade thither
also. The establishment of a free commerce has begun there to animat:' the national
navigation. The neighbouring ports, such as those of Suances, Comillas, and St.
Vincent de la Barquera carry on a little coasting trade with the barks of the country.
Santona, which has an excellent port, sends some vessels loaded with chesnuts to Hoi-
land, and a few cargoes of lemons to France.
Their coast, the trade of which, as we have seen, is almost wholly in the hands of
foreigners, joins that of Biscay, which carries on the most active commerce in Spain after
that ol Catalonia.
The principal ports of Biscay, Bilboa, Uie Passage, and St. Sebastian, are much fre-
quented by the English, French, and Dutch, who carry thither their manufactures, and
return with iron, wool, and anchors. The Biscayners, in their own ships, maintain a
regular trade with difl'ercnt ports of Spain, as well as with France, England, and Holland.
470
BOUnOOANNC I TRAVILI tN IPAirf.
i.M
A few words upon ilic trude of the Mcdiicrnincnii iilatuU, which make a (Kirt of the
crown of ArniRoii, wilUomplfte this slight hkctoh of the commerce of Spain.
The iti.ind of IVIujorrn, the oritu ipal one of the three, uUnoiiKh \ts population he no
more than tvvciuyfutir thoit<tan(l lour liuiulred vxiU, produces wine, and fruit, oran^cH,
ulmonih, and oil, which are sent to Spain, itonv: hrundien, taken by vcssch from the
north, u little silk which goe» to Catalonia, and coarse wooli sent to Sardinia and Italy,
with inlaiil work, for which the Majtncans are famou«i. It receives corn from the French
and Italian ports, laitlt- from those of Lan^uedoc and Catalonia, and riee and silks from
the coasts of the kinf;dom of N'aLntia. 'I'he J'lnf;lish, the Dutch, and particularly the
French and (icnotse, earry to it all the other articlen of which it hannc((l. The people
of M.ijurca, like the inhabitants of most islands, li.t\e an inclination and aptitude lor na-
vi(^ution. 'Fhiir dock -yard is at Pahna, which is their principal port ; they fetch cocou,
su^ar, iron, and planks from Marseilles; and their xebecksgo to Cadiz, where they take
in cargoes. TlKir spirit of adventure would {greatly increase were it not for their ap-
prehension from the Uarbary corsairs. It has received anew stimulus, by the establish-
inent of a free trade to America.
Minorca, imfrui'ful and almost witliout industry, was furnished with everything by
foreij^n vessels, and particularly by those of France l)efore it was conquered by S{)nm. I
know not whether the change will be advantageous to the inhabitants with respect to
their commerce or not, perhaps they woidd have been better pleased if the treaty of
Amiens had left them subject to their former sovereign.
Iviza, the third of the islands anciently called the B;>learie, exports but little, and re-
ceives its supplies of necessaries from !\Iajorca and the coasts of Spuin. Its principal
riches consist in salt, of which foreign ships, particularly Swedish, come thither to take
in their cargoes.
These accoimts arc more than siiftlcient to prove that the commerce the Spaniards
have with foreigners is but pass've. The extension of the free commerce with Spanish
America however has already had un eflect, and will, no doubt, operate advantageously
for their shipping interest, ^riiis will be sutficicntly explained in the following chapter.
CHAPTER VII.
OF TIIK THADK lir.TWEKN HPAIN AND IIK.H COLONIKH. TIIK KHTAIILISIIMKNT OK A FREE COM-
MKHCK. ADMINISTHATION OF OALVKZ.
AFTER the conquest of Spanish America, the court of Madrid confided the admin-
istration of that country to a permanent council, under the name of the council of the
Indies, which still subsists, with nearly the same laws and principles, that, according to
circumstances, were at first adopted. The organization which it established for its vast
possessions forms no part of my subject : I shall say no more of it than what will be ne-
cessary to give a proper knowledge of modern Spain, with respect to her connexions with
her colonies.
The council of the Indies is, like the council of Castile, comnosed of several chambers,
two of which are esjiecially charged with affairs of administration, and the third with the
decision of lawsuits. It has also its camera, which proposes to the king, by means of
his minister, such persons as it judges proper to fill places in Spanish America. It is by
this council also that the laws and regulations by which that country is governed are
framed. This having been the permanent depository of the fundamental laws upon
which its constitution was at first erected, it has been a constant enemy to all change.
One of these laws confined the commerce of Spain with her colonies, to a single port :
at first that of Seville ; but when the Guadalquivir, which in the time of Charles V, was
i
i;
HOinioOANiri'l TMAVELI IM irAIN.
471
xirt of ttic
ion l)e no
, urangcH,
from the
irul iLily,
u" French
Hks from
iilarly du-
ll" ^)copIc
Ic l(ir lui-
ch cocoa,
tlu*y take
th( ir (I
(.'stabliit
I
ihintf by
Sj)am. I
espcct to
treaty of
?, and re-
principal
r to take
Spaniards
I Spanish
agtously
clutptcr.
RKC COM-
c admin-
:ii of the
>rding to
r its vast
ill be ne-
ons with
lambers,
with the
nenns of
It is by
med are
vs upon
inge.
;le port :
V, was
navi^fahlc up to thin port, iK'camc inarcewlble *n Ixrfi^c vcsuh, the centre of the Spaniih
Vmcrica'i commerce was* nnuivcd io C.uli/.. 'I'hc manner in which it wai carrud ow
lY f^ncrully known. It uill not be neccHHarv to repeat here wliat is known to ever v
one, that at stated times a Heet sailed to Mexico fo furnish a supply of such articles as it
rc(|uired, and brin^ back itii tiroductions to Cadiz, while, at the same time, galleons
Hailed for Porto Hello. It will be MUifieicnt to remark, that thii inetlxxi continued to Iw
practised until the war which Ik^uii in I71i, when register ships were Nubstituted for
galleons, which no longer s;tiled at any fixed time. Uut the fleet for Mexico, and the
register ships, continued to sail from Oadi;>;.
In the me.m time, the coast of Caraccas received its supply of merchandise from oilu r
quarters. The care of furnishing it was deputed by Philip V, to the company of (iui-
ptiscoa, which we have noticed before, and v/hich enjoyed the advantage of an exclusive
privilege, without having received it in form.
Bad administrutiun, \vhich, while it enriched the agents, excited complaints from the
Rcttlrrsat Car.tccas, occasioned it to decline. The injury it received at the beginning of
the American war, and which amounts in loss to 1,500,0U0 piastres, gave it the fmishiiiK
Htroke ; the company then felt the burthen too heavy to be supported, and prayed iUc
king to be dispensed from their obligation of maintaining, with little avail, certain guar*
da costas, which were an annual expcnce to them of 200,000 piastres. This prayer
was granted, and the company, has preserved the same means lor carrying on trade with
the Caraccas that its competitors enjoy at present, but with superior facilities.
The experiment made by Philip V, in favour of the .ic»tlers of the Caraccas was a step
towards new attempts of the same kind. In 1775 Ferdinand VI, permitted a company
of merchants at Barcelona to send out hhips to St. Domingo, Porto Hico, and Marga*
retta ; but the privilege was clogged with so many restriction'^ that the company made
no use of it.
In 1763, the dawn of a new day began to illumine Spanish America. Already had
certain intelligent persons rc|K>atedly represented to government the inconvenience of
confining to a single port, and to periodical voyages, the whole commerce of these ex-
tensive colonics. But two unfavourable experiments, made at diHercnt periods, had
made it timid. Under Charles V, there had been an attempt to establish a free trade,
but soon afterwards it was found necessary to restore the former restrictions. From 1 748
to 1754, register ships had sailed from different ports of Spain besides Cadiz ; and the
numerous failures which followed in consequence soon caused the measure to be abun<
doned. These objections were answered by observing, that precautions and regulations
better adapted to the time and the nature of the different expeditions, must prevent the
ruinous speculations of new adventurers ; that Spanish America, better known by its
wants than its resources, no longer presented the same risks to merchants ; and that the
old pla: on one hand exposed the colonists to all the hardships of monopoly, and on the
other, left too great an opening to the speculation of smugglers.
Atarifdrawn up in 1720, seemed to have been calculated for the advantage of those
who pursued this illicit trade. It loaded with export duties the productions of the mo*
ther country. It established the ridiculous dut) of Palinco, wliich was received upon
the bales, not according to the quality of the merchandise, but in proportion to their
dimensions ; a duty which rendered it impossible to take any account of the quantity or
quality of foreign stuflfs shipped for the colonies. In a word, it prescribed a number of
formalitir:^ perplexing to legal commerce ; and smuggling added to the advantage of
eluding them, that of defrauding government of duties on exportation and importation
to the amount of 70 per cent. The English profited by this so much, that, according
^-<^'
-172
BOUnCOANNE's TUAVEIS I.V SPAIN.
to calculations which I have reason to believe exact, their contraband trade produced
ihcm alter the peace of 1763 twenty millions of piastres per .\nnum.
At length the court of Spain opened its eyes ; but frccjuently circumspect even to
excess, and prudent even to tardiness, it us j et was satisfied ^^'ith trying a new regime
for a part of its colonies. By a decree of die 16th of October 17813, several European
ports were permitted to trade immediately with the Spanish Caribbees, and the provinces
of Campeachy, St. Martha, and Rio de la Hacha, The decree diminished the duties of
the tarifof 1720, and dispensed with many formalities.
The Spaniards were not at first eager to begin this new traffic ; the island of Cuba
became the principal object of their timid adventures. Yet in 1770 this island, which,
well cultivated, might supply all Europe with sugar, did not furnish enough for the
consumption of Spain. Merchants have since become more enterprising. Govern-
ment has given new encouragement to the trade with the Havanna, especially in facili-
tating the importation of negroes, by a considerable diminution of the duty on their
importation. The company which had the exclusive privilege of furnishing them, had
almost ruined itself in the undertaking ; but these new measures soon gave it the means
of repairing its losses. The island of Cuba began from that moment to prosper visibly.
Before the year 1765, scarcely six ships in a year arrived at its ports ; in 1778, its com-
merce gave employment to upwards of two hundred, and its crops of sugar ivere more
than sufficient to supply the demands of Spain.
At that time Galvez had enjoyed the post of minister for the Indies scarcely two years;
Ite WiVa of a stern and despotic character, but neither deficient of courage nor intelli-
gence. He had travelled through a great part of Spanish America, was acquainted with
the disjiosition, the wishes, the necessities, and the resources of its inhabitants. He
thouglit this season fit for their liberation from the most galling of their fetters, and for
the extension to almost all of them of the advantages of a free trade.
By a decree of the 2d of February 1778, this was extended to the province of Buenos
Ayres, and the kingdoms of Chili and Peru ; and by another decree, on the 16th of
October following, to the vice-royalty of Santa Fe, and the province of Guatimala. It
dierefore was now permitted to all Spanish America, except Mexico.
The last decree admitted to a participation in a free trade the ports of Seville, Cadiz,
Malaga, Almeria, Alieant, Carthagena, Tortosa, Barcelona, St. Andero, Gijon, Corun-
na, Palnva, in the island of Majorca, and St. Croix, in Tenerifle. The Biscayans alone,
on account of their aversion to custom-houses, as we have before noticed, were exempt-
ed from a direct participation of these advantages.*
The same regulation extended this commerce to four-and-twenty ports in America,
and favoured, by an abatement of the duties paid at others, such ports as required this
allowance to cause them to be frequented. One of the principal objects of its author,
was to encourage the productions of the mother country. In consequence of which, se-
veral articles were exempted from duties for ten years from the dale of the decree ;
such as woollens, cotton, and linens of the manufacture of Spain, hats, steel, glass, &c.
With the same view the regulation actually excluded many articles of foreign mer-
chandise, such as cotton stufts, half beaver hats, silk stockings, and liquors of all kinds,
such as wine, oil, brandy, and others, know n in Spain by the appellation of caldos. And
further to excite the Spaniards to export to the Indies the productions of their own
* During the present war, the prince of the peace, by entirely changing the constitution of Biscay, and
assimihiting it with that of the other slates subject to the crown, at least as far as regards import and
export dues, has obviated the motive which caused the restriction to which the Biscayans were subjected.
They at present (1807) in common with the rest of Spain, are allowed to traffic with the Spwush colo-
nics direct.
noUnCOANNE'S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
i7v
: produced
:ct even to
e\v regime
European
' provinces
c duties of
d of Cuba
nd, which,
igh for the
Govern-
y in facili-
y on tl;eir
them, had
the means
>er visibly,
t, its com
iTvre more
two years;
lor intelli-
linted with
:ants. He
rs, and lor
of Buenos
lie 16th of
imala. It
lie, Cadiz,
n, Corun-
ans alone,
J exempt-
America,
[uired this
its author,
which, se-
e decree ;
glass, &c.
eign mer-
ail kinds,
OS. And
their own
Biscay, and
import and
^subjected,
anish colo-
country, the r'^gulatlon exempted from a third of the duty every vessel wholly lad<!u
with national merchandise ; and exempted entirely from duty, on being shipped from
America, a great quantity of the productions of the country ; such as cotton, sugar,
cochineal, indigo, coffee, copper, jesuits-bark, and all productions, as well of the Spa-
nish Indies as of tlie Philippines, which had hitherto not been brought to Europe ; a long
list of benefits promised by the new world to the old, the enumeration and appreciation
of wh-'ih might perhaps decide the grand question, whether the discovery of America
has been most beneficial or injurious to mankind. What compensation (>f there cai^ be
compensation) for some terriljle presents she has made us ! ^Vhat number of diffciciit
woods, minerals, fruits, and nutritive aliments ! How many salutary balsams, shrubs,
flowers, and medicinal plants ! How many articles, in short, calculated to increase our
enjoyment, and lessen our ills, and consequently to afford man that small portion of
happiness of which he is susceptible on earth ! Wherefore do they who possess these
treasures retail them with a niggard hand ; wherefore load them \\ ith form and taxes ?
as if fate had irrevocably decreed that evil should pour down in torrents, and good but
drop by drop.
The precious metals of America, which it might be difBcult to class in eidier rank,
made a separate article in the regulation of 1778. Gold, on entering Spain, paid be-
fore a duty of five per cent, and silver one of ten per cent. The new regulation fixed
these duties at two and a half and five per cent.
Certain articles of merchandise conung from the Indies arc necessary to the Spa-
niard'i, either for th^^ir consumption or for their manufactories. The exportation of
these to foreign kingdomis is absolutely prohibited by the regulation : the principal of
this description are silver in ingots, gold in every form, spun cotton, ship timber, &c.
America produces many other articles little known in Europe, and of which Spain
ought to promote the exportation. And the regulation which exempts them from ex-
port duties on leaving the Indies, extends the exemption to their exportation from
Spain ; such are certain woods, gums, plants, and drugs with which America abounds ;
and which, placed by nature at a distance fi-om the inhabitants of the old continent,
ojight long since to have been rendered common in Europe.
All these measures would have been insufiicient, if the court of Madrid had suffered
the numerous duties established by the tarif of 1720 to remain.
The new regulation abolishes them all, and substitutes in their stead a single dutyi,
which is a certain part of their value. It is accompanied by a tarif, in which the various
articles of merchandise are estimated ; iron by weight, cloths by measure, stuffs by the
piece, and other articles by the dozen. Those which cannot be thus valued, are taken
at the current price of the manufactories whence they come, if they be Spanish ; or at
the invoice price from the port in which they were shipped, if foreign. According to
these different valuations, which leave but little rooni for arbitrary decisions, the tarif
subjects all national merchandise to a duty of three per cent, and foreign goods to one
of seven per cent, when either are shipped for any one of the great ports of America ;
that is to say, the Havanna, Carthagena, Buenos Ayres, Montevideo, Callao, Arica,
Guyaquil, Valparayso, and Conception ; and tlie duty is but one and a h.-^.lf, or four per
cent, when national or foreign merchandise is shipped for any of the lesser Indian
ports.
Notwithstanding the wisdom shewn in the construction of the regulation, it excited
many complaints. It left, said the complainants, much to be desired with respect to the
encouragement meant to be given to national productions. Why were articles of foreign
manufacture excluded from the commerce of America, the demand for which the na
VOL. V.
3 p
_-o»*
474
MOURGOANNe's travels in SPAIN.
Iff;'
jiikt
IBM
national manufactories could not for along time to come sufficiently answer, particularly
m the article of silk stockings ? Was not this an inducement for the merchants of Spain,
convinced of the inability of obtaining enough from their own manudicturers, to engage
with foreigners for a supply ? And must not this necessary succour, easy to be ob
tained in spite of prohibitions, cause their manufactories to languish by favouring idle-
ness ? The heaviest complaint Wiis against the troublesome formalities to which the re-
gulation subjected the expeditions from the ports of Spain to America. Merchants
were exposed to the caprices of favour and the inconvenience of delav, which, added to
a duty of seven per cent, to be eluded as well in exports as imports, and to absolute
prohibitions ot certain articles of merchandise, could not but ofter seducing advantages
to contraband speculations. Could the name of a free trade, said the complainants, be
givtn to commerce thus shackled, for each operation of which an express permission was
necessary from the minister ; which intrigue, unwillingness, the slowness of the forms
of office and intermediate agents, might delay too long, and consequently render useless ?
Instead of the advantages of liberty, prohibitions, threats, and punishments, it was added,
had been annexed to each article of the regulation.
The merchants of Cadiz were the chief complainants. These only had hitherto had
connexions with Spanish America ; they were the only persons who had capitals suffi.
cient for such distant expeditions, of which the long delayed returns were exposed to
every kind of hazard. The associates given them in thirteen other ports of Spain,
would, said they, engage in ruinous speculations, which, without benefiting the colonies,
would be a real loss to the commerce of Cadiz.
The voice of self-interest was easily distinguished in these complaints. The experi-
ence of a few years has already been sufficient to determine how groundless they were.
The following tables present a view of the effect of the regulation, even in the first
year, on seven of the principal ports of Spain, the only ones which at first dared to take
part in the trade thrown open to them :
'
Number of Vessels and Places
whence they sailed.
63 from Cadiz
25 — Corunna
23 — Barcelona
34 — Malaga
13 — St. Andero
3 — Alicant
9 — Santa Crus
Amount of
National Goods.
F Us.
13,308,060
2,787,671
6,531,635
3,425,504
765,155
211,969
1,606,625
170 Ships.
Total 28,636,619
Amount of
Amount of
Foreign Goods.
Duties thereon.
Rials.
Rials. ]
Vlar.
36,901,940 -
2,677,060
2,673,056 -
287,397
30
2,100.526 .
335,360
14
519,085 .
144,739
24
3, .1,395 .
306,482
18
92,340 -
12,943
10
-
69,435
23
46,278,342 -
3,833,424
17
BOUIICOANNE's lUAVLLS IN SPAIN.
VESSELS WHICH RETURN Kl) FROM SPANISH AMERICA IN 1778.
475
To which Ports. No. of Vessels
Value of Merchandise
Duties on Entry,
Rials.
Maniv
Rials. Mar.
Cadiz - - 57
.34,410,285
13
975,534 8
Corunna - - 21
27,333,132
10
1,725 460 6
Barcelona - - 25
4,308,551
3
77,271 26
Malaga - - 10
989,829
8
4,790 20
St. Andcro - . 8
4,594,099
33,602 30
Alicant • . 8 ■
1,195,827
7
0 0
Santa Cruz de Tcneriffu - 6
1,72{),5G8
12
111,197 16
135
74,558,292
19
2,927,857 4
Ten years afterwards this commerce experienced a prodigious increase. Twelve
ports in Spain, instead of seven, engaged in it. The exportation of national merchandise
was more than in a quintuple degree ; that of foreign more than triple ; and the amount
of the importations from America more than ten times greater than in 1778.
It is by a comparison between similar tables, better than by any reasoning, that one is
led to judge of the progress of prosperity in any nation. The reader himself may com-
pare the year 1778 with that of 1788.
TABLE OF THE TRADE WITH SPANISH AMERICA IN 1788.
Mar.
Names of the Ports.
Value of
National Merchandise.
Rials.
Seville - - 3,811,039
Cadiz - - 91,252,427
Malaga - - 12,752,045
Barcelona - - 29,688,392
Corunna - - 9,993,537
St. Sebastian ■ - 364,547
Los Alfalgues de Tortosa 864,384
St. Andero - . 5,082,866
Gijon . 61,775
Alicant . - 542,576
Palma - - 598,875
Canaries . - 2,210,576
157,223,039
Value of
Foreign Merchandise.
Rials.
573,688
121,533,827
1,347,354
2,083,317
3,179,534
14,404
11,277,950
1,131,992
32,600
1,319,624
142,494,290
Value of
the Returns from
America.
Rials.
129,970
635,315,832
11,869,524
35,446,496
81,625,588
11,355,430
245,235
24,295,925
642,091
635,110
274,095
2,863,437
804,698,733
3 P 2
I,-
476
BOVRCOANNE'S mAVEI.S IK SPAIN.
From this exposition it appears, that in 1778 ^oods were shipped
for Spanish America to the amount (national and foreign included)
of ..... .
And that the returns to Europe amounted to
And thus that the returns exceeded the shipments from Spain by
Rials.
300,717,529
804,698,733
503,981,204
What better evidence can the Spaniards, can foreigners even require of the advtinta-
ges of her trade with America ? Will it be denied, after inspection of these dift'erent
tables, that the regulation of 1788, however imperfect it may be, has yet contributed
towards the vivification of the Spanish colonies ? Even the revenue has been materially
benefitted by it.
In 1778, the total amount of the duties on exportation and impor-
tation amounted to ..... 6,761,291
In 1788, they amounted to - • - . 55,456,949
Leaving a difference of increase of
47,695,658
Notwithstanding tliis proof of the salutary consequences of the regulation of 1778,
even .a 1788 it was the object of rather bitter discussion among Spaniards of the best
information. They aflirnicd that it had been enacted with an insufficiency of skill, in as
much as it gave too great encouragement to fraudulent interlopers ; and they endeavour,
cd to prove it by a statement with which I here present my readers.
Before 1778, they said, almost half the trade of Mexico, and more than half of that of
Terra Firma and Buenos Ayres, consiiited of smuggling. The consequence was, that
a great quantity of piastres, stamped in Spanish America, went directly to foreigners.
For example, it is known as a fact that, from 1767 to 1778 inclu.
sive, there were stamped .... 187,579,451
That oft'iesc there came to Spain . . - 103,889,652
The difference between the two sums - - . 83,689,799
was therefore paid to contraband dealers. That if to this be added what was extracted
in ingots, in produce, and raw materials, it will be evident that foreigners carried on
more than half the comnierce of Spanish America.
Moreover they add, since that period smuggling appears to iiave increased conside-
rably.
It had been calculated, diat in the six years posterior to the establishment of the free
trade, 56,326,029 hard dollars of the whole of those which were stamped, had left Ame-
rica, or annually about 9,400,000 ; whereas in the ten preceding years no more than
83,689,799 dollars went in that manner, less than 8,400,000 per annum.
Ought one not, said they, to draw from this difitirencc an inference unfavourable to
the establishment of a free trade ?
And how could the regulation of 1778 be otherwise than advantageous to contraband
trade ? Spanish America has an immense extent of coast, which, government, in spite of
the rigid vigilance of its agents, cannot sufficiently guard; and notwithstanding this
regulation has diminisiied many of the charges of direct trade, it hassulfered a sufficient
number to remain, for foreigners to be enabled to go themselves and vend their commo.
I|
BOl/RCOAhrNE'S XllAVELS IN SPAIN.
477
iaiu.
),717,529
,698,733
,981,204
advanta-
(liftcrent
itributed
Kiterially
761,291
,456,949
,695,658
of 1778,
the best
kill, in as
deavour-
3f that of
I'as, that
gners.
,579,451
,889,652
689,799
X true ted
rried on
:onsidc-
the free
ft Ame-
are than
rable to
traband
spite of
n^ this
ifficient
ommo-
«litics to the colonists, at 20 and 25 |jcr cent, less than the Spaniards. In order to favour
national manufactures, it has laid u duty of 14 percent, on foreign manufactures, which
is augmented upon their arrival in some ports in America by an addition of 5, 8, and
even 10 per cent, which, if respect be had to the difference of the prices at which they
Ve rated, will make the whole duty from 40 to 50 per cent, on the prime value.
Two new matters posterior to the regulation have tended to favour smuggling still
more.
1. A new tarif, published in 1782, increased the charge on foreign merchandise upon
its entry into Spain. Spain, however, is obliged to import for her colonies linens, the
greater part of the cloth which .ihe ships, thread, a {jreat quantity of silk articles, all her
mercery, hard ware, crystals, co.irsc woollon goods, in short, more than two- thirds of the
consumption of the Spanish Indies ; all of them articles which, beside the duties to
which they are liable on their arrival in America, leave Europe with an impost of 14,
20, and 25 per cent, upon their cost, according to the valuation at which they arc rated
on their entrance into Spain, being either less or more considerable.
2. The alteration of money has hud an influence on the exchanges, which arc con-
stantly regulated by its intrinsic value.
Moreover, how can it be expected that the. colonists will not prefer bartering their
ingots with foreigners for merchandise, to currying them to the mint, which receives a
benefit on the coinage ? or, that they should not be induced to export their dollars in
contraband, while there exists a duty of 4 per cent, upon their being exported according
to law ?
An additional circumstance assists smuggling, in the privilege granted to Louisiana
of trading with foreigners. This colony receives from Europe direct a much greater
number of articles than what it consumes. What becomes of the excess may easily be
divined.
Lastly, The inhabitants of the Spanish islands, possessing the liberty of trading with
the different parts of the American continent, take advantage of the neighbourhood of
the foreign islands, to obtain from them a quantity of merchandise, which is distributed
atnong the Spanish colonics.
To these censors of free trade might be objected, that the greater part of these circum-
stances existed before its establishment ; that it has besides the advantage over the for-
mer order of things, in having lessened the duties on a great number of articles ; in hav-
ing relieved from many incumbrances the Spanish merchants of Europe and America;
that from this circimistance it must i ppear strange, nay almost inexplicable, that smugg-
ling should have increased since the regulation of 1 778. Doubtless, however, it will be
answered, that from having greatly multiplied the places from which expeditions may
b.e dispatched, and those at which they may arrive, the means of eluding the duties im-
posed on legal commerce have increased, and that in a similar proportion.
After all their inculpations, they yet do not assiime that free trade should be abolish-
ed, but simply that it has been established in such a manner as to present many temp-
tations to contraband commerce, and that it must excite no wonder if, upon its present
system, it should rather become augmented than reduced.
In lact, it is evident that the Spaniard, if he buys his merchandise at the manufactory,
cannot forward it to any of the ports of Spain v ithout being liable to expences which
foreigners are not subject to, who ship from their own country. Again, the freight and
insurance which he pays, loads him with an addition of three or lour per cent, from
which the English, the French, and the Dutch are exempt, which is however nearly
iXtfk.
BOURCOANNl^'o lKAV£La IN SPAIN.
coinpcnsattd by the comnussiun paid on the foreign merchandise which is smuggled.
Here then \\t. sec goods in the htinds of the persons who receive them by contraband, at
nearly the same price they cost the Spaninh imci cliant \y\\n forwards them in a legal man-
ner. The one has to pay the charges of tr uisports to tL American haven, the unload-
ing, and i^'.:inran^;e against confiscation ; tiiese collective charges are no more Uian 7 or 8
per cent. But the oUier must pay at least 14 per cent, duty on entry of his goods in
Spain, 7 per cent, on their export, and more than 7 per cent, upon their arrival in an
American port, which together make a total charge of 28 per cent. The smuggler
thus has an advantage over the Spanish merchant who trades legally of 20 per cent,
without reckoning the profit which he draws from the precious articles with which he is
furnished for his returns, or the metals v.hich he receives, without paying the export
duty.
To place the Spanish n»erthant, therefore, upon a par with the foreign contraband tra-
der, go\ernment should exact no more than 6 per cent, on all merchandise shipped to
New Spain. Without this measure, how is it possible that it can compete with the
Knglish, uho export all their manufactured goods in peace free of duty, and in wartime
with a convoy duty only of 3 or 4 percent, a modus not equal to the difference of insu-
rance which vessels navigating under other flags must pay ; with the French, who since
the revolution pay no duties on exportation ; w ith the Dutch, whose export dues are not
more than 1 per cent ; or with the Danes, who have a free port in St. Thomas.
Still smaller imposts should be levied on goods shipped for the Spanish islands, and
all the inmiediately contiguous coasts, for the purpose of counterbalancing the facility
for sniuggling, which their position affords.
On the oilier hand, hea\ier duties might be imposed on merchandise shipped for
Buenos Ayres, atid somewhat even additional upon those destined ibr Peru: contraband
entries being much less easy at the first of these colonies since the destruction of the co-
lony of San Sagramento, situated opposite to Buenos Ayres, and being almost null in
Peru and Chili.
As for Spanish merchandise, perhaps it would be best that the duty on export thereof
should at most not exceed 2 percent. Possibly the diminution of revenue which this
would appear to threaten the treasury with, might be objected to by government, not yet
persuaded of the truth which in so keen a manner was expressed by Swift ; that in the
arithmetic of taxes, two and two do not always make four. But if from this reduction,
of unpleasant aspect in the first instance, the result should be, that the articles which
commerce wafts to the Indies in a contraband manner should take the legal channel,
government w ould not be long in finding that by losing a part of her revenue, she would
almost annihilate smuggling, vivlly her trade, and of most consequence of all, secure the
prcservution of her colonies, greatly risked by the clandestine and continual communica-
on which they maintain \\h\\ foreign nations.
Moreover, the Spanish government should bear in mind, that it has to provide for the
a \itary and civil administration of its colonies, for the ex pence of public works, of cha-
ritable institutions, and, in short, for all important charges ; that these expences are very
far from being covered by the revenue of its mines ; that trade is the only profit which
Spain draws from her possessions ; and that should she be ruined by smuggling, she will
be obliged to abandon them for want of means to answer the cost of their dependency.
Even tliii miglit not eventually be materially injurious to her ; but since her glory, whe-
Uierwell or lil understood, pascribes to her the preservation of them, let her study to,
avoid the rocks against which these possessions, more brilliant than useful^ are destined'
to strike at some future period.
SFM
M.
UOI/RGOANNE's TIIAVEIS IV aPAlN. /17i)
Kvcn il" there should exist a mode of preventing smugf^linj,' compatif)Ic with the re-
servation of the duties as they arc at present, still ought the government to lessen the im-
pedmients to the free course of commerce ; as such a measure would increase con-
siwiiption, and consequently benefit Spain. It already sees that, in spite of prohibition
amanuhictoryofcoarsc cloths has been estal)lishcd in the province of Quito, and others
of stamed cloths, galoons, hats, and dilfcrent articles besides, in various parts of New
bpaui. Let huropcan goods arrive there at a moderate price, these would fall of them-
selves. Allow the colonists a perfect freedom to export their raw articles in return and
they would not sufflr by changing the application of their industry. Agriculture of
Itself IS siifhcient to employ all their hands, and procure them all the necessaries of life
and, with the superfluity of the varied and valuable productions of their soil, Spain mieht
purchase the produce of the soil and industry of the rest of Europe. Hence would arise
a commerce of barter, equally advantageous to both worlds, and the ties between thr
metropolis and her colonies be drawn more close, by the effectuation of that real happi
ness which nature appears to have intended. She has bestowed upon Spanish America
immense woods, vast countries exceedingly fertile, and a disproportionate population
In such a country manufactories cannot flourish. Every thing which draws its inhabi-
tants from their fields and cultivation, has for a lamentable consequence the effect of
concentrating the population in towns, and leaving the country a prey to wretchedness
rhesc ideas have occurred to me; and whatever may be said of a free commerce
whether Its advocates or its opponents be right or wrong in their assumptions, it is in'
comestible that since its establishment the Spanish Indies have increased in prosperity It
isfurthermoreascertained that smuggling has materially diminished since 1788, the epoch
of the outcry that was raised against it. As a proof, the returns of 1791 have been
cited. In this year there arrived from Mexico and Peru 22 millions of hard dollars
Now it IS known that Mexico yields commonly from 21 to 22 millions annually and
l^eru five or six, making together a total of from 2G to 28 millions.* If then from this
• The following presents an account, drawn from good authority, of the product of the mines of
S^VspuTnTndteT^^^^^^^^^ ^"'" "' ^'^ '''^^•°'""""' ^^'"^" in-rruptcdmuteriuUy the connections
At the mint of Mexico, in 1790, there were coined in gold .... aoo n^A
In silver o^j,u44
17,435,644
Total 18,057,688
At Lima, in 1789, were coined, in gold piastres 77777^
In silver ...... „ 765,762
- 3,570,000
Total 4,335,762
And in 1790, in gold and silver piastres 5 ,53 040
In the same year, 1790, the mines of Potosi produced 2,204 marks of Kold, which ' '
produced 299,246 piastres, and 462,609 of silver, or 3,923,176; making together - 4,222,422
And at St. Jago dc Chili m gold 721,754, and in silver 146,132; together - 867|886
GENERAL STATEMENT FOR 1790.
Sr ; : : : '«.057,688
Potosi 5,162,240
Chili . . . . 4,222,422
867,886
_-»;^
r»
'.—
480
BOUncOANNE S lUAVLLS IS ;>PAIN.
Lupital it be computed that somewhat must remain in the country for its currency, it
will be evident that there can be but Htilc K It lor contraband exportation.
Moreover, it cannot admit a doubt that Spain has hitely furnished America with a far
grcatiT quantity of wines, fruits, and other produce, as well as of manufacture d goods,
than what it had been used to do, or that productions before unknown have been re-
turned ; that liiose whicli before came in small portions arc furnished plentcously, such
as tobacco, sugar and coffee ; that Cuba jiariicularly has notably improved notwith-
Standing at present it be wide of that prosperity which it is capable of attaining ; and
lastly that communication between the mclropolis and her colonies has become in-
fniitely more active : let this single lact suffice; before 1778 the fleet and the galleons
\ised to sail every three years. A merchant then must necessarily have been subjected
to considtrable expence, and to an infinity of trouble in order to obtain permission for
his vessel to form a part of the expedition, which consisted of no more than 14 or 15
.ships. In 1791, 89 vessels were dispatched from Spain to the Indies. Does not this
at once answer die question of the proj)ricty of a free trade ?
At first the minister for the Indies did not deem it proper to extend free commerce
to Mexico, which remained for eight } ears subject to the ancient regulations. When
he esteemed himself justified from the numerous data with which he was furnished, and
was satisfied that he had nothing to apprehend from extending a species of free trade
to this vast colon}-, with which he was better acquainted than any of the rest, he caused
it in 178G to participate'' in measure in the regulation of 1778, but confined the an-
nual supply of merchandise to be furnished it, to 6000 tons ; whimsical restriction !
>vhich evidences the predilection which Galvez had for regulating systems.
I had a close acquaintance with this ambitious minister. He was exceedingly laborious,
personally disinterested, and possessed some talent ; but with these, his manners were
repulsive, and he assumed all the consequence of a vizier. It is true he had all the pow-
er, without at the same time running the hazard of an Ottoman minister, and Charles III,
had an entire confidence in him. This monarch, truly virtuous, had some peculiarities ;
he looked upon himself as a great tactician, and in consequence considered and de-
termined every thing that regarded the army, and military plans. As for the other de-
partments, that of his conscience inclusive, he blindly submitted them to the manage-
ment of those he had harged with them ; and none of the ministers profited more by
this concession than Galvez, who pretended at all times a difl'erence to the superior in-
telligence of the sovereign. Marshal Duras became acquainted with him during his
embassy in Spain, and appointed him advocate for the French nation ; this was not an
idle appointment then at Madrid, although it has latterly been suppressed. It closely
connected him with the Frencli, and their ambassador. Possibly a near examination
into our character may be more prejudicial to the forming a favourable opinion of us,
than a slight acquaintance. However that may be, notwithstanding the frequent com-
munications he had with the French, he entertained towards them an aversion, ihat he
but ill disguised beneath the veil of iViendly professions. Mr. D'Ossun threw this lean'
carp into the fish-pond. He recommended him strongly to the marquis de Grimaldi,
who in 1763 took the port folio of foreign aflairs, and to Charles III, himself whom he
Sum of the produce of the mines of Spanish America in the year 1790 - . - 28,310,236
Of which in goUl there were not more than ....... 4,020,000
But which docs not include the produce of the mines discovered in the vice-royalty of St. Asii nor of those
of Buenos Ayres, of which in 1 790 there were tliirty of gold, and twenty-seven of silver, seven of copper,
two of tin ; and seven of lead, but what result had followed the workuig of them had not come tohimd.
norn(;uANN£ i iRA\r;L3 iv si'ain.
■iS\
rrencv, ii
ivith a far
:d goods,
: Imcii re
isly, such
notwith-
ling; and
come in
^ galleons
subjected
ission for
14 or 15
:s not this
lommercc
. When
ished, and
free trade
he caused
d the an-
;striction I
laborious,
iiers were
the pow-
harles III,
uliarities ;
1 and de-
other de-
manage-
more by
perior in-
uring his
'as not an
It closely
aminution
ion of us,
jcnt com-
, that he
this lean'
Grimaldi,
whom he
28,310,336
4,030,000
lor of those
1 of copper,
ne tohund.
Ibllowcd from Naples to Madrid. Ilr f^n ally contributed towards obi.iihin^; lor CiaKe •.
an important commission to Mixico, wliirc he shewed his domincerinj? and enterpri.:.
ing si)irit, and where, intoxicated with power and ovtrconu: In the fatigue of an c>:
tremcly laborio\is mis /ion, he became a pny to a malady, which \viv\ accompanied and
succeeded by many acts of insanity. On his return he was rewarded for hii pains, and
revenged for the inculpations on every head which had precedct! him in Kuropi, by ai:
appointment to the (Jlice of .Minisicr for India ; that is to say by an appoinimeni, which
gave him a more extensive and unlimitefl antho.ity than is possessed b} any individual,
nut himself a sovereign, upon the surlaec of the glolje. In this situation he retained
towards Mr, d'Ossun the exttiior of gratitude, tf)wards the French nation at least the
language of attiichment. • Yet of this Mati(jn he entt it;iined a jealousy and antipathy
Mhieh lie demonstrated on more than one occasion. Hi.-, di spuiir nature was liable tri
irritation at the slightest eontradiciion. His adminisU'ation S(.inied to be the ark of th(;
covenant with which no one could touch with impunity. \\ Jio^ocxer should presume
to reveal or pry into its springs became at the instant a \i|Hr in his eyes, lie could
scarcely ever forgive Robinson for publishing his work on Anieriea. He constantly re-
tarded the translation of it, under pretext that he could not have it appear without a
correction of certain errors with which it was replete, and which in a supplement to the
work, admirable in some respects according to his own allowance, he himself would
refute by a statement of facts. Befoie he had compkted this work, perhaps before he
had ever scriovisly diought ol' it, he died. As for the philosoi)hical history of Rnynal, as
often as it was mentioned to him, it put him in a ra};v. 1 niNseUlune heard him break
out into imprecations against certain rrenchinen, who had taken advantage of an al-
lowance granted them for a temporarv residence on the coast of (aimana, to introduce
some copies of that infernal work.
Galvcz displayed the same imperious and violent chanicter in every branch of his
vast admuiistration. That he was extremely diligent cannot be denied, nor that he had
a resolute inclination to cfl'ect die reform of abuses, and oppressive regulations. But
among the most enlightened Spaniards it is (picstionable, whether during his administra-
tion he efl'ected most good, or harm, for the Spanish Indies. What however is cer-
tain, he created in dicm, much against his inclinations, a disposition to independence.
Too desirous of proving that an able minister might render them productive to the re-
venue of the metropolis, to which for a long time they had been a burthen ; by an in-
crease of taxes, and a bad choice of collectors, he provoked an insurrection in 1781,
at Santa Fi ; and one shortly after still more serious in 1\tu. The latter was not terminated
but by having recourse to bloody measures, and the condemnation of the intrepid chief
of the rioting band Tapacamcros. And what instant did he choose for irritating and
oppressing the Spanish colonies ? The very moment in w hich, for moti\ es of no greater
weight, the colonies of Great Britain rebelled against and deserted her mother country.
*Gulvcz»atnanofrealtuk-iU,an(l wlio kntwbcUcr U>un M.«le Ilovii-i^oinj> ilic cliaracltr of the nation
with which he had to deal, who from his niiiiuu; attention to colonial ailUiis was competent to judge ol
tlic remedies for the disorders whicli existed in tlic colonies, piixious to his luhnlnisualion, and the
prjipcr time for application of them ; M.Cialvez, who was as wi:ll a man of sense anil kc(;n discrimina-
tion, and had a near accjuaintance with that nation w hose character is more shininu; than valuable, and
truly, and not only probably, better calculated for a sli)j;ht acquaintance than a near inspection ; this M.
Galvcz had a well founded aversion tow aids the I'rencli. This carp, which the Trench ambassador threw
■when lean into the pond, with intention when fatted to serve upat table, although thankful tohisbcn-
cfactor, became soon not only a fat but an old fish; and the Trench found him continually too cunning
to be taken by the nets they cast for him ; he was too little of a glutton to seize the tempting baits •with
which they sought to hook him ; and too little sensitive to be tickled out of the water.
VOL. V. 3 q
48U
UOURCOANNL's IRAVKM in II'AIK.
For tlie purpose ot establishing and collecting the new tuxcn he liad luid on the people,
sixteen thousand olliccrs were employed, whose H;ilarieH and misiipplicutions absorbed
all their receipts. Notwithstanding this, he boasted with unblushing front, that he ttud
augmented the revenue of Spanish America from live millions of piastres to 18, the while
towards the end of his ndnunistration, government was obliged to send remittances of
money (situados) to the Philippines, to Purlo Hieo, to Santo Domingo, to l^ouisiuna,
and sometimes even to the Ilavanna.
On die other hand, it must be granted, that he sueccssfully laboured nt enlivening
commerce and agriculture of the Spanish Indies ; that La Trinidad, Louisiana, the Phi-
lippines, and particularly Mexico, owe to him the dawn of tlieir prosperity. I shall trace
a rapid sketch of what he has eifected for these colonies, or at least of the beneficial aU
terutions contemporary with his administration.
CHAPTER VIIL
Mr.AsniKs ADnriKi) with hkoard to lovisiana. or tiik cehsion or samta oominoo to
FKAMF. RKCr.NI rROSPFHUY OF TIIIMDAD. TRKATV Of SPAIN rOU Till' SUPPLY OP NP.*
UROI.H.
From the moment Louisiana Wiis ceded by the French to Spain, the court of Madrid,
which to subjugate this colony had employed such vigorous measures as could not fail
to render its yoke odious, endeavoured to soften its fate by granting to the inhabitants
such privileges as were calculated to insure their pros|x.rity. In 1768, it was enacted,
that merchandise going from Spain to Louisiana, and the productions received from
that colony, should be exempt from all duties of exportation ; and that the produce of
the colony should pay a duty of but four per cent, upon entering Spain. But as those
in the greatest abundance, such as tobacco, indigo, cotton, and particularly furs, could
not find a great sale in Spain, it was agreed that French vessels might load with them ut
New Orleans, but that they should arrive there in ballast. This nstriction was so fre-
ciuently eluded, that the Spanish government saw the necessity of taking it off*, convinced
that the furs, skins, S(c. of Louisiana could but be exchanged ibr goods manufactured
in France.
The regulation of 1778, in addition to the other privileges of Louisiana, exempted
all furs from duty for the space of ten years. Afterwards in 1782, Pensicola and VVes.t
Florida being added to the Spanish possessions in the gulf of Mexico, it was establish*
cd, that for ten years, reckoning from the conclusion of the peace, ships should be per-
mitted to sail from French ports to Louisiana and Pensicola. And bring back returns
of all the productions of the two colonies, that the articles, us well exported as im-
ported, should pay a duty of no more than six per cent.; that incase of necessity the in-
habitants should be permitted to furnish themselves with provisions from the French
American islands ; and that the negroes, which they might procure from friendly colo-
nics should enter their ports duty Tree. The regulation expressly mentioned, that the
foreign merchandise received at Louisiana should be for its own consumption only.
This restriction was in course evaded ; for considering the numerous expeditions made to
New Orleans in consequence of the regulation, many speculators would have been ruin-
ed, had their cargoes had no other market than that of Louisiana.
This regulation of 1782 soon made some addition to it necessary ; the people of Loui-
slana were to form no commercial connexions but with France. Had the French been
able to furnish them with all the articles they required, they would have deprived the
contraband traders of any benefit from fraudulent commerce by way of Florida, and
nOURr,OANNf;'5 TRAVLLS IN UFAtV.
48.0
the north of the Mi.sissippi, nnd uouKl have prrMtircd at an cas^ritr the furs, hcnvcf
skiiH, and other productions of Loiiisi.iii.i. lint iis th<- iiihal>itaiits of thi^ colony coii>
iiumed certain fon.if^ merehai)(li>ie not prr)dti(-fd by France, such na Siteiiian linenn, l''<n^-
lish chintzes, &c. in order to s (nrc the whole profit of this new arrangement to the
French, it was n('cess;»ry to obtain from flic Fniu h j<overnmrnt an :ill(nv;nw:e (or the frt«'
importation of these articles, uhi(li mi^ht alttuvards havf li«in shipped from thi.porls
of that kin^'dom inuuediately to I^ouisiuna. 'I'lu- Spjiiiish ntinister confided this nef^otia-
tion to M. Maxent, fatheriiilaw toj^t lural (lalvi;':, a man whom that ministrr Ividrea
son in priding himself at being connected with, a n^an who in the American war displayed
great brilliancy of talent, who had paved the way for the prosperity of I^ouisiana uy the
mildness and wisdom of his administration, and who afterwards, promoted to the vice-
royalty ofMexii:o, was b v a premature death snatrh<d from his coimtry and a truly in-
teresting family. The French government, fearlnl of injnring the revenues of the
country, declined the proposals of Mr. Maxent ; and tiie court of Madrid was obliged
to extend to other ports, such us Ostend, Amsterdam, (knoa, 8tc. a privilege which at
first had Ikjcu reserved for those of France.
This circumstance however did not hinder the French from enjoying almost the whole
of the commerce of Louisiana up to the period of the- rupture between the two countries.
They even maintained two commissaries in the colony fur the purpose of superintend-
ing the interests of their merchants.
The stiite of Louisiana is not materially clianged from what it was at die time of its ccs
sion to Spain. Its capital at that time contained 5 or 6000 inhabitants. In 179J it did
not contain more than 8000, exclusive of negroes, the number of whom throughout iIk
colony amouuied to about 25,000 : tluit of the whole of the col<jnists might be reckoned
about 20,000 : the majority of which are French. If the persons employed by govern-
ment both civil and military be excepted, who are Spanish, few others of that nation arc
to be met with. The Americans have formed establishments at Natchez, where they
have introduced English cultivation with success ; and upon the right bank of the Mis-
sissippi arc some Germans, who next to the :\mericans are the best farmers in the
colony.
The extent of cultivated land in Louisiana is yet very confined ; tobacco and indigo
are the only articles which have yet attained any high degree of |)rosperity. Never-
theless before the war with France it had a handsome portion of export trad'.', the amount
may be computed at 8,400,000 leones (350,0001.) annually. But excepting a part which
certain avaricious governors are said to take in this trade, the rest is confined to foreign
merchants, who only establish themselves at New Orleans for the purpose of accpiiring
fortunes; and aftewards return to their native coimtry : woeful circumstance, which de-
priving this colony of capital without which nothing can be undertaken, deprives it of
the means of displaying the advantages with which it has been favoured by nature.
These advantages are so numerous and brilliant, that, when known, one is induced to
pardon our forefathers for having been led astray by the deceptive illusions of the Missis-
sippi scheme. Let the rapid sketch here adduced serve for I'raming a judgment of
them.
Louisiana is situated in one of Uie finest climates. It is watered through the whole
of its length by a river, which adds to the natural fertility of the soil, and which at its
mouth presents an immense outlet for all the productions it nourishes in its course.
' At the head of these is to be placed tobacco, which is greatly superior to tliat of Ma-
ryland or Virginia. Of this article .S.OOOjOOOlbs. are annually exported on account of
the king of Spain ; which, at 5d. per lb. amount to 61,2501.
3(1,2
—c^
404
0OUR(;oANNt'8 Tn.WELI IN IPAIN.
The inHipfo of Lonisinnn U cruinlly pood with that of St. l)ominp;o, ond r(1hwqiicntly
much Mipcrior to (hat of Carolin;i. Ik-iorc tli'. nur with France aiul Spain a ^rcat (|iinti-
tity wiiH exported to Krancc; the amount of Itn annual prochice was computed to Ik
SOO.OOOlhs. weight, which at 5n. 6d. peril). n;ives for its value 1;17,.'><)<)I.
Skins, for n lonpf space of time, fornu-d a principal article of trade from Louin'Mnn.
From 1765 to 1778 it wan commited that the nature of the annual exportation amoimted
to lf)6,fi(X); but this commerce ih dimini<ihed one half by the cause before noticed ; the
merchai.rs having no nooner enriched themselves than they withdraw, carryinj:; away with
them their eupitah, which are absolutely necessary in the fur and skin trade. The suiva-
Srs, with whom this trade in most benelicinlly carried on, arc the Missouries, whobrinf^
c produce of their huntin(<^ to Saint Louis, a village the inhabitantn of which con^kistt
principjtily of Frenchmen, who arc well beloved in the adjacent district.
It Louisiana had more markets to send her productions to, she might reap great be-
nefit from the collection of pitch, and tar, of an excellent ({uality ; which may be obtained
in large quantities, particularly between Mobile and New Orleans.
It prwluces as w« II an immense quantity of tin»ber for ship building. The value of
its exports of masts, spars, planking, Sec. is computed at 35,0001. annually, besides a
number of small vessels, and even of as high a burthen as 400 tons, which arc built in
titc Mississippi, and which are equally strong and cheap. Its cedar is of the fuicst qua-
lily ; green, white, and red oak arc very abmulant, and remarkable for the size, heiglit,
and toughness of the wood; their cypresses make excellent masts, and lo the West In-
dies they ship prodigious quantities of shingles, staves, and boards. They ship annually
for the tiavanna 100,000 eases of sugttr ; and employ near 500 saw mills, ol two saws
each, which work by the rise and fall of ude.
Immense Hocks, and herds, furnish them with a superfluity of meat, and already form
a considerable branch of trade, in the exportation of hides and tallow. Finally they
could export, if they had a market, a number of horses, vegetable wax, wool, hemp, and
even silk. I shall say nothing of rice, peas, maize, Sec. of which but small quantities
arc exported, which however if added to the naval stores may collectively be valued at
17,0001. sterling.
The French trade before the cession of Louisiana*, co France, employed six vessels, la-
den with indigo, skins, and dollars for the metropons, more than sixty small vessels be-
tween New Orleans, and San Domingo, and some few to Martinico and Guadaloupc,
laden with wood, rice, pulse, |)itch, tar, tobacco, and particularly piastres, and which car-
ried back all descriptions of European goods, and negroes.
It is at first sight an inejiplicable phenomenon, with all these advantages, that u colony
so highly favoured by nature, and for which Spain while it \vas in her power, by lessen-
ing the duties so much beneath what her other states were taxed at, and by other privi-
leges granted, so greatly assisted, should have made so little progress. It has now changed
its master, and there remains to be seen if in other hands, and with more attention to the
advantages to be derived, its race to the jail of prosperity be not as fleet as before it
was tardy. The Americans appear destined to force Louisiana at length to fulfil the pur-
pose of nature. Already settled upon the great river Mississippi, and upon the Mis-
souri and the Ohio, whose tributary streams increase its sea of waters, they solicited with
threatening impatience a right of passage to the ocean, which the regulating system of
the Spanish government refused ; and which early or late they must have forced ; when
Spain in 1795 at length conceded it to them. '
This measure, which decided the fate of the western states of America, and secured
their success, must naturally tend to augment amazingly the prosperity of Louisiana.
tovuf.oAftm.'a ritAVEr.s in tr.\iN.
4B5
New Orlcann must l>ccomc ilic depot for tlit* f^rnxU which titcy have to export, ns well as
for those which they mtiy r»(|niiv, and conHnjiuntly hccomc u place of pcrinaiiciit attrac-
tion to spi-ciilatorH ; and tli« example of thi'^ ft ctiiidatiii); activity cannot fail to enliven
the whole «.olony. 'I'lie l!ii|j;lish fjovetnmeiU w;is greatly [ticnsed with the concessiort
made by Spain. The Mi»<»is iippi, olj!>ervtd their e)rator«, comes fron» the north west,
the Ohio which falls into it from the north eunt. Both traverse countricH which arc nu
where Hurpa^Ned in fertility, countries which produceabundanccof wood fit for the con-
struction of mills, and houses such as oak, fir, elm, and walnut tree. This wood by dc-
scendind^ the rivers to their mouth will arrive cheap at the F.nglitth iHlands. These island)*
moreover may receive by the 'iimc channel as far as from F'iitsburf^ in the mime latitude
us New York, wheat, and iron, with which they could not be supplied from New York
itself, or Philadelphia, but at a much higher rate. In one word, the opening of the
Mississippi insuring suHicient shipments of grain for the consumption of her islands
will dispense Kngland from the necessity of provisioning them, and greatly extend at
the sume time the difl'usion of her manufactures. Should experience justify the favour,
able conjectures of the British ministry, it may be said, that the treaty by which the
prince of the peace and Mr. Pinckney terminated a very knotty negctiatiun in 1795,
after thirteen years discussion, will have possessed the singularity in diplomatic amiuls,
of having been directed against no one, and advantageous to all.
Had Louisiana continued subject to the Spanish, in all human probability it would
have reaped advantage from the happy change in its relations, and might by its connec-
tions with France have berj. of more actual benefit than if it formed a part of its colo*
nics ; we may at any rate h.. satisfied with our having abided by the treaty of Basle, and
being content with the cesi^ionofthc Spanish part of St. Domingo.
Spain, on her side, in yielding it, made no painful sacrifice : to her it was rather bu:
thensome than beneficial. It is well known that within the century preceding 1784, it
had been a net cxpence to her of 17 millions of piastres; and that latterly it cost her
200,000 hard dollars annually. In assuming this sum, which I have especial reasons for
deeming correct, it docs not appear that I exceed the idea which enlightened people had
entertained of its amount, since M. Moreau de St. Mery in his valuable work on this
island, rates it at 1,700,000 livres, or upwards of 300,000 dollars. Notwithstanding the
Spanish part of the island was double the extent of ours, its population at the period ad-
verted to did not amount to more than 100,000 souls, of which scarcely 3000 negroes
followed agriculture ; nor did the inhabitants even ten years later, according to St. Mery,
surpass 100,000 of free men, and 15,000 slaves. It possessed scarcely any other culti-
vatfed lands than such as were tilled by our run-a- way negroes. This colony may on the
establishment of power in the West India islands become in our hands of more value
than the whole of our Antilles. None of the valuable productions of America are foreign
to its soil. It is capable of yielding as much tobacco and sugar as Cuba ; as much of
coffee and cotton as our former part of St. Domingo was accustomed to do ; better cocoa
even than that of the Caracc is ; but all its productions, althougl^ for the most part indige*
nous, are small in quantity at present in this colony, after having been formerly so plen-
tiful, that in cocoa alone St. Domingo furnished a sufficiency for the entire consumption
of Spain. There are two districts on this part of the island well adapted to the rearing of
sheep, many suitable to horned cattle, its territory is well watered in every respect, and
or an uneven surface. To conclude, four of its ports, San Domingo, Samana, Port dc
Plata, and Monto Christo, are well adapted for the reception and exportation of its pro-
duce. ,
48()
BOUllGOANNE S IKAVtLS IN SPAIN.
From the forcpoing sketch it will be at once concluded that this new colony acquired
by ihc treaty olBasle is bingiiiariy favoured by nature, but nt the same time all remains to
be done; and consequently, the advantages uliichthe French may reap from it, can be
looked for only at a very distant period.
This at the same time is all that can be granted to those who blame the policy of our
making this new acquisition, and among their number it cannot be dispQted that there
are some who like M. Mortau dc St. Mery reason with much plausibility and from in
controvertible facts. With them we are disposed to agree that the French part of St. Do-
mingo will gain by its incorporation with the Spanish part, neither any considerable
means of dclcnce, nor perhaj)s a greater security for its navigation in time of war ; but
at the same time, we cannot share their a|iprcliensions of seeing the means of subsistence
djminiish in consequence on the ancie'^t French colony. From the evidence of a century
past, of what in this respect has taken place between the French colonists and the Spa-
niards, it is evident, that the supply of cattle afforded by the Spanish part of the island to
the other must necessarily be precarious as long as it is dependant upon foreign gover-
nors and administrators, with whom the rulers of the French could make no other than
provincial and imperfect stipulations, for the observance of which no guarantee was af-
forded : whereas in the present state it will be possible to make permanent, and strict re-
gulations, which will secure our ancient colony agai.iSt this inconvenience,
In vain do they who are of opinion that the acceptance of this colony is impolitic, as-
sume, in opposition, that Africa must be dopopulated to supply it with the million of
negroes necessary to open the soil, a difficulty of no less magnitude would remaii to be
overcome in finding capital for such an immense undertaking ; particularly after d,e hor-
rible commotion which has occurred, and which will leave so much to regenerate in the
tormer French colony. To them may be answered, that the French government lie under
no obligation to effect the amelioration of the whole colony at once ; and that in fact the
means to be employed arc not of the description that they appear to indicate ; since from
the solemn iibjuration of the slave trade which has been made in France, it is deprived of
the means of consecrating the Spanish part of St. Domingo, to that species of cultivation,
which, apparently, cannot be undertaken without the assistance of negroes: that there
are other modes of rendering productive a country, which by their own allowance pre-
sents sc many resources, and that in the interval of the government becoming occupied
with its improvement on a more extensive scale, nothing opposes its beginning to popu-
late and clear it, by inviting to it the numerous French families who have been ruined
by the revolution, and the numerous wanderers from every country to whom all places
are alike, when their distress may find alleviation, or their situation in life be varied for
the better. . These new colonists, attracted by the beauty of the climate, by the advan-
tages which its incorporation with the French republic holds out to them, and by the
cheapness with which they will be enabled to purchase uncleared lands, would thus pave
the way for the prosperit} of the country, scarcely yet inhabited, without its becoming
necessary to depopulate Africa, or empty the national exchequer.
This momentous question of the policy of the acquisition of the former Spanish part
of St Domingo, has been treated by both sides with that exaggeration which disfigures
every thing by its attempt at embellishment, and predicts consequences which never
happen. On one hand it is affirmed, that this acquisition will ruin the French colony ;
that the Spai.it,h inhabitants will leave their quarters ; the meadows whereon they graze
the cattle, without which the French cannot subsist, will be either abandoned or
•';-'VJ'
>i ;. ft
■(.;C(>'
.i
BOURCOANNE's travels in SPAIN.
487
Y acquired
remains to
it, can be
icy of our
that there
cl from in
of St. Do-
nsiflcrublc
war; but
ubsistcncc
fa century
I the Spa-
te island to
ign gover-
other than
tee wasaf-
1 strict re-
mlitic, as-
million of
nail to be
terdehor-
ratp in the
It lie under
in fact the
since from
leprived of
cultivation,
that there
vance pre-
occupied
g to popu-
een ruined
I all places
varied for
the advan-
ind by the
thus pave
becoming
>anish part
disfigures
lich never
:b colony ;
they graze
ndoned or
appropriated to cultivation, and the colony will perish for want in the midst of its plan-
tations of sugar and coffee. Again, how can the forces of one single power protect so
vast an extent of coast? What a robbery must it not occasion the forces of the metro-
polis, which so much requires her power at home ! What an unwise appropriation ol
that treasu j which s'le herself is in such need of !
On the other hand, those who are fond of embellishing the future, reckon upon St.
Domingo attaining in ten years such u degree of prosperity as is wholly unexampled ;
increasing the imports of France by 150 millions of livres, and affording a supply for
the necessities of sill the world. Patriots so easilv alarmed, dismiss vour sombre fancies ;
visionaries of optimism, wake from your fairy dreams ? Neither of your prognostics
bear semblance of a likely feature. You have seen the destined pairs, '"hose amiable
qualities, whose apparent suitableness for each other, whose mutu:.i — : excite such
tender interest : their wedding day arrives, how serious the state, how c'ecisive of their
future destiny ! You exclaim, " on this instant depends their happiness or tht ir misery."
The sentence is erroneous : tliey are deceived as well as those wno tell them so. Tliej
are about to pass together thirty years of their lives without effecting either the one or
the other. Thus will it be with St. Domingo, and with a crowd of similar other
cases from which great wonders are expected, or great disasters apprehended.
I now pass on to other colonies which are indebted to the minister Galv *i5 for at least
the dawn of their regeneration.
Trinidad had for a long time been one of the most unprofitable of the Spanish co-
lonies. Its situation at the entrance of the gulf of Mexico, near the coast of Terra
Firma, the salubrity of its climate, the fertility of its soil, scarce opened by the husband-
man, and the excellence of some of its harbours, on the contrary, ought to make it a
valuable possession. Galvez, in order to give new life to this palsied member of the
Spanish monarchy, added in 1776 the island of Trinidad to the department of the
company of Caraccas. In 1778 it was included in the new regulation. The next year
M. d'Avalos, intendant of the province of Caraccas, consulted and encouraged by die
minister, took upon himself to people and fertilize Trinidad. A Frenchman, not less
active than himself, seconded his intentions : this was M. de Saint Laurent (since
known by the name of Roume) who after living several years on an island of Granada,
where he has acquired general esteem, went to settle at Trinidad. He was previously
acquainted with all the resources of the 'sland, had connections with most of the Ca-
Hbbe islands, and possessed, in a superior degree, the talent of inspiring confidence
and benevolence by his easy manners, and his honest bluntness. M. d'Avalos deputed,
him to procure settlers for the island of Trinidad. For effecting this purpose he pro-
posed a regulation, which M. d'Avalos published the beginning of 1780, without wait-
ing for the consent of the court, and it produced a speedy effect. In the month of June
1782, there were a hundred and seventy-four families of new colonists, who had brought
with them a thousand and eighty-five slaves, and hud begun nearly two hundred plan-
tations of sugar, coffee, and cocoa. However the greatest part of the emigrants, upon
whom M. d'Avalos reckoned, waited until the court of Spain should make a formal
avowal of the promised privileges; and M. de St. Laurent came in 1783 to Europe to
solicit it. He was not satisfied with his reception by the jealous minister, who wished
every thing should proceed from himself, and could ill brook that any thing beneficial
should take effect at the instigation of another. To justify the promises he had made
to the emigrants, he demanded privileges which were found incompatible with the laws
of the Indies ; and the council, the depository of these laws, opposed the ancient in-
flexibility of its principles. He conceived himself to possess a right to the acknowledge-
488
nornGOAN>fE s tkavels in stain.
mcnts of Spain, and demanded them with that bluntncss which scorns to ask for jus-
tice in those accents employed in the solicitations for favours. In short the fate of Tri-
nidad tvas decided without his occurrence.*'
In the month of November 1783, a royal mandate appeared whicli weakly seconded
the advances of the colony to prosperity. Iti^rantcd to the new colonists, u part only
of thrpriviltj^'s which St. Laurent had judtn-d necessary ; it allowed them a free trade
with the French in Euroi)e as w ell as in the Caribbces, but stipulated that the commerce
should be carried on in Spanish vessels.
The importation of negroes, which the colony wanted, was permitted but with re-
strictions, stipulatinpj simply tliat this island should serve as a depository for all those
which foreign nations should bring thither. Spain could not do without these to fur-
nish her colonies. At the expiration of the famous assiento, which the English obtained
at the peace of Utretcht, this charge was transferred to a company which had made
Porto Rico the depository of all the negroes it bought. The contract of the company
expiring in 1780, Spain determined on importing her own slaves. With thi<, . ';w
government had accjuircd from Portugal, by the treaty of peace in 1778, two n l
islands near the coast of Africa, called Annobon and Fernando del Po. But, besides
their being badly situated for the purpose, Spain is in want of f'mds which are espe-
cially necessary for the negro trade ; she has neither vessels properly built for the pur-
pose, nor the merchandise suitable to barter for negroes, nor sailors accustomed to
the trjkiic, nor surgeons who understand how they should be treated ; and until she
thus becomes upon an equality with the nations used to this commerce, she will be
obliged to have recourse to their assistance. It is however only by degrees that she will
be persuaded of this truth. Thus, at first she had recourse to certain foreigners, who
within a stated time engaged to furnish her with a limited number of negrc's. These
partial measures turning out insufficient at the beginning of 1789, she adapted the pkn
of allowing foreigners as well as Spaniards the liberty of importing negroes into the
colonies of St. Domingo, Cuba, Porto Rico, and the Caraccas. In the month of
February 1791 she extended this permission to two years longer, and included Santa Fi
in the allowance. Towards the close of the same year appeared a proclamation suffer-
'ng natives as well as foreigners for six years to go to purchase negroes wherever they
were to be met with, and disembark them in the colonies previously mentioned, as well
us at Buenos Ayres ; with this restriction only on foreigners, that their vessels on their
arrival on U»e Spanish coasts should contain no other lading, not even excepting agri-
cultural tools, the introduction of which w'as exclusively reserved to Spaniards. For all
the edicts issued by the Spanish government in modern times are continually shackled
with restrictions and exceptions. On this occasion this was particularly experienced by
the French. They were entirely excluded from the privilege which the proclamation
granted to other foreigners; the motive was clear enougli. Even the most pious
courts do not oppose the most revolting of all traffics, which is legitimatized in their
eyes by the prosperity and profit it brings to their country ; but by the importation of
French principles they conceived there was nothing to be acquired, and consequently
placed every obstacle in its way.
In the mean time we felt offended at the exception. Our traders solicited the revoca-
tion oif an exclusion which was injurious to them, and in the month of May 1792 I ob-
* This estimable man found himsclf,as the reward uf his talents and labours, ^ibandoned ;o all the anx-
ieties caused by a derangement of property, when marshal de Castries, who had found an opportunity
of becoming acquainted with his nxerit, recompensed him for the injustice and caprice of fortune, by
nominating him commissar)' at Tobap;o. ,:
^. K
DOURCOANNE S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
489
;\v
tamed their wish. It was at this instant that Spain, acknowledging my character, seemed
to be reconciled for a time with the revolution. The French administration,
however, at that period did not think it prudent to avail itself of the grant. It was ol
opinion, that for a trifling pecuniary gain its own islands would be deprived of their re.
giilar supply from the proprietors of slave ships, finding it more advantageous to carry
their negroes to the Spanish colonies. It was wrong in its computation, for slaves arc
more dear in the French than in the Spanish settlements, and consequently would secure
the former a preference. The English were likely to be most benefited by the edict ;
their import of negroes amounted to from 40 to 45,000, and was consequendy greater
than their demand ; while the whole importation of the French did not exceed 25,000.
Moreover, the war which shortly after took place between France and Spain made a
nullity of the allowance conceded to the former, and the philosophy of our legislators
shortly after annihilated the traffic in negroes. The government of Spain has not imi
tated the generous example. Here, however, it is just that I should observe, that if this
horrible practice were tolerable in any part of the globe, it would be under the Spanish
dominion ; and it is worUiy of remark, that the nation which is charged with having used
more cruelty than any other in the new world, is that which, with the Portuguese, main-
tains towards its negroes the most mild and benevolent deportment ; as if studious, by
its present humane disposition, to expiate, or at least make amends for the cruelties of
their forefathers. But let us return to Trinidad.
The court of MatVid at length followed a plan with respect to this island, bold in itself,
but with which she has reason to be satisfied. She granted to it a licence, such as per-
haps cannot be exampled on the surface of the globe. Before the American war it was
almost a desert, in a perfect state of nature. Spain threw open its ports to foreigners
of every nation. She invited them to establish themselves there with their capitals and
negroes, exempted from duties every thing exported by Spaniards, as well from the co-
lony as from the opposite coast of Terra Firma, and laid but a very moderate duty on
whatever was exported by foreigners to alien ports. She did more : she entrusted the
government of Trinidad to a person as well informed i.s he was beneficent, Don Joachim
Chacon.* '. . -
Hence has arisen a prosperity as brilliant as rapid. Th'^ soil of Trinidad is calculated
to produce every species of colonial production. Cocoa, mdigo, cotton, and coffee have
been successively tried ; but it has been found impossible to preserve them from the
creeping and winged insects with which the colony abounds, and plantations of these
descriptions have been abandoned. But the cultivation of sugar is already in the most
flourisning state. Less than fifteen years ago cherc were scarcely twenty sugar planta-
tions, there are now more than three hundred and sixty. From diflerent islands in the
West Indies, particularly from the Fren* h, the discontented have fled to Trinidad, tak-
ing with them all their negroes. It will be no exaggeration to compute its colonists at
oJXty thousand at this moment ; of which but few are Spaniards, many Americans, and
many French, as well emigrants as patriots. There, under one of the finest climates in
the universe, on a vii^in soil, which usuriously repays their labours, they forget their
• Events, however, have proved, or at least have left room for believing, that his courage was not
equalto his intelligence. I( was he who presided at the defence of Trinidad when the English, with
so little difliculty, made themselves the masters of it in 1798. Shortly after, their governor of St
Vincent went to see the actual state of the new conquest, and satisfied himself of its importance, not on-
If with respect to its intrinsic value, but more particularly from its geographical position. The report
which he made on his return to London to the British ministry fixed its attention so strongly, that it
■was easy to perceive, even at that instant, the fixed acquisition of this valuabJe colony would be made
one of the articles sine qua non of the future peace. *w>:r' j •«; ?it.sf^ssw'(» a iwif-.BWTjf' «?#«>.
VOL. V. 3 R - ' •'•*•'-■>- '■'■
«-*^
..■^j.4:i^ •■■■■'
490
uourcoanne's travels ih spaiv.
former feuds, and live in peace, protected by a wise government, which alike dispenses
to every one both happiness and protection. The new comers received advances of
agricultural implements, and even capital, the value of which was rigorously reclaimed
at the expiration of three years. If they bring capitals, they buy such plantations alrri^Jy
Ixfgun as are on sale ; or grants of lands not then sold arc made them from the crovrn,
the price of which is paid after their being brought into a state of production. ' 'he
rights to which the colonists owed their prosperity were, in 1796, prolonged for eighteen
years ; in less time than that will Trinidad l>ccome as flourishing as any other colony of
the new world.*
CHAPTER IX. ' '
WHAT THK SI'AMbll UOVEHNMENT HAS C.
R THE PHILIPPINES AND MEXICO.
MINES.
WOHKlNOOr THE
LOUISIANA and Trinidad are not the only colonies, the regeneration of which has
been undertaken by modem Spain ; yet is there one at the extremity of Asia which
seems to accuse the metropolis of taking too little interest in seconding the bounties of
nature. I speak of the Archipelago of the Philippine islands, which, if the Marianas be
included, comprise a possession more extensive than France, Spain, and Italy joined to-
gether. Not only does every requisite of life abound in them, they at the same time
produce abundance of ship timber, woods pro^icr for dyeing, several iron mines, and
rivers navigable a long way up the country. Cotton, tobacco, indigo, and sugar thrive
in that soil ; some gold is also found among the sand of certain rivers. The vegetable
kingdom is rich beyond measure. Sonncrat brought away from there in 1781 near six
thousand plants before unknown in Europe. The number of subjects who acknowledge
the Spanish dominion is upwards of a million, without including the wild natives who
live in the woods, and of which the enumeration would be almost impossible.
Convinced of the impossibility of establishing a regular and well supported commerce
between them and the mother country, the kings of Spain have confined their efforts
t» bestowing on them a communication, by the port of Acapulco, with the western coast
of Mexico. The famous Nao (Galleon) which every year makes the voyage from Ma-
nilla to Acapulco, across the South Sea, is generally known. It was, for the most part,
by this route that Spain communicated with the Philippines ; a communication without
profit for her European subjects, and of which the principal advantage was reaped by
the Chinese, the Armenians, and other nations who frequent the eastern ocean. Even
the revenue derived no advantage from it ; for the moderate produce of the duties was
not sufficient to defray the expences incurred in their collection. The civilized inha-
bitants of the Philippines, without cultivation or industry, had ro other resource than
in the commissions to which their situation was favourable. Like Spain in Europe, the
* Such was the situation of Trinidad when the English took possession of it ; now that is ceded to
them by the treaty of Amiens, they will not fail to make their harvest of all the advantages which it
holds forth. The principal one for them will be the possession of a colony abutting upon the SiAniah
coast of Terra Firma, and the being enabled to supply it abundantly with the produce of their manufac-
tories ; possibly they may not neglect it in other points of view. Trinidad, to which nature has been
prodigal of all descriptions of wealth, contains much treasure worthy of the attention of the naturalist.
It was with a view to the discovery tliereof that our government, with the consent of the court of Ma-
drid, and provided with a protection from Great Britain, dispatched the frigate La Belle Angelique in
1796, under the command of captain Baudin, for Trinidad, with some of our learned men, skilled in
natuitd history and botany. This object, of which circumstances have permitted no more than tlie out-
lines to be Sketched, will no doubt be completed by the British government, and leave science nothing
to regret from the change of masters which this colony has undergone.
flOURGOANNE
TUAV£I-S IN STAIN.
491
.>t
v.»
ibland of Luconia or Manilla, which is the principal of the Philippines, was only a chan-
nel through which the piublrcs of Mexico passed to the Indian nations ; so that, notwith-
standing the enormous sums of money which commerce has carried to these islands since
the time of t' .ir conquest, there remains in them but a very moderate quantity.
Their defence was as much neglected as their interior prosperity. It may be recol-
lected with what case they were taken in the war before the last by the same general
Draper who commanded at Minorca under general Murray, when that island was sur-
rendered to the duke de Crillon. Spain has profited by the lesson. The present mo-
narch has ordered the port of Cavite, at the bottom of which Manilla is situated, the ca-
pital of the island of Luconia, and the residence of the governor, to be fortified ; and in
the American war this important place was in a situation to brave the renewed attack ol
the same enemies.
In the mean time, die minister of die Indies endeavoured to excite the industry
of the inhabitants, who, notwithstanding their supineness, from which the appearance ot
gain is alone calculated to awaken them, have the greatest aptitude to manufactures,
agriculture, navigation, and the building of ships. Already had cotton manufactories
been established at Manilla, and succeeded. Already had it been frequently in contem-
plation within the century to enliven the colony by means of a company.
In 1733, the minister Patinbo proposed the establishment of a company, which was
to have a duration of twenty years, and to which privileges were to be granted which ap-
peared incompatible with the laws of the Spanish Indies. It was not, however, from thc
inflexible council of the Indies that the opposition proceeded. The court of Madrid
was obliged to yield to the representations of the maritime powers, who maintained that
this establishment was contrary to existing treaties, which stipulated that Spain should
not trade to India by the Cape of Good Hope.
In 1767, Musquiz, minister of finance, in other respects by no means of an enterpri-
sing spirit, conceived a bolder project still, which was that of forming a company, com-
posed half of French and half of Spanish, to trade to the Philippines ; a trade of which
die French would have reaped the principal advantages, by amalgamating it with that of
her East India Company. The duke de Choiseul, who was fond of the grand, who as
well imagined that his ascendancy over the marquis di Gramaldi would make every thing
practicable, received the proposition with enthusiasm ; nothing, however, resulted from
the plan.
It was renewed in 1783, but in a different shape, and at the instance of three different
persons. The one was M. d*£staing, who was desirous of repaying, by proofs of zeal
towards Spain, the grandeeship with which she had invested him. Shortly after, the
prince of Nassau Siegen, who, in his voyage round the world, had acquired some grand
ideas, proposed to enliven the Philippines by attracting colonists from Europe, by open-
ing one of the ports of these islands to the Chinese, who require nothing better than an
asylum in this quarter, and*by establishing a sufficient force to check a Muhomedan na-
tion of pirates, called Moors, which infest the shores of the Philippines, and which Spain
was unable to destroy, notwithstanding she consecrated annually 200,000 piastres to-
wards carrying on a war against them. He offered to preside himself over the estab-
lishment : but his offer was coolly received, and it fell to the lot of M. Cabarras to suc-
ceed, where so many before him had failed.
Galvez, whose uneasy jealousy had insensibly become accustomed to the sight of a
young Frenchman applying himself to the regeneration of I.ls country, felt inclined to
concert with him that of the Philippines. They took advantage of the tendency of the
3 R 2
%rm-
■ fi^'fitf ^ ■
ni> 7^H';'*jj »",;•.
492
BOURCOANNE's travels in SPAIN.
Spaniards towards useful cntcrprizes, to cause the project of a direct trade between
Spain and the islands to be adopted.
Circumstances were propitious. After divers fluctuations, credit and confidence
seemed to be consolidated, and the Spaniards began to accustom themselves to risk
adventures. Monied men became less feuri'ul, gave at length an employment to their
capitals, which mistrust and custom had prevented them from putting to use. The
company of the Caraccas was on the point of being dissolved, and its share- holders receiv'
ing back their investments, were anxious for an opportunity of replacing them toadvan.
tage. This was therefore the fittest time for the establishment of a new company, which,
undertaken under the most happy auspices, might inspire confidence and a desire of gain.
The plan was discussed and approved of, in July 1784, in a junto composed of different
memoers of administration, and at which the minister of the Indies presided. It was
proposed to form a capital of eight millions of hard dollars, divided into 32,000 shares,
each of 250 dollars, and to employ this capital in trading from Spain to the Philippines.
The advantages which Spain would have over the other European states, in carrying
immediately from Mexico to these islands the piastres which other nations could not
convey thither but by a prodigious circuit, were enumerated. It was attempted to be
proved that Spain, thusimportmg from their source the merchandises of India, so much
sought after in Europe, would receive them upon better terms, might furnish them to
her colonics and European subjects, and at the same time find a market for them in
other nations. n *^?,..4ij
The plan approved of by the junto received the sanction of the king, who as well as
his family took an interest m it, and means were immediately sought for to carry it into
execution. In it was placed, as we h:.ve formerly observed, 21,000,000 of rials, arising
I'rom the excess of the value of the shares in the bank ; and that the ardour which seem-
ed to be awakened might not be abated by delay, directors and other persons were
immediately named for the new establishment, and the patent of its institution was pre>
pared and published.
It stated, that the vessels destined to this commerce should sail from Cadiz, double
Cape Horn, put into the ports on the coast of Peru, and thence take piastres sufficient to
make their purchases, cross the South be. to the Philippines, and bring their returns
immediately to Cadiz, taking their course by the Cape of Good Hope. ...^ «■;:
This precipitate zeal, which seemed to be a contrast to the supposed slowness of the
Spaniards, and which rather exhibits a mixture of French spirit, was seconded by a cir-
cumstance which happened 'ery opportunely. The company of the Gremios, of which
we have several times spoken, this company, which speculates in every quarter, which
obtains any favour, any privilege, and any commission it requires from administration,
but which of late is o}>cn to the charge of being more attentive to making the fortune of
its agents, than to the security of the funds with which it is entrusted ; the Gremios, I
say, had already sent some ships to the Philippines ; and notwithstanding they had not
succeeded, were preparing to make another experiment, when the plan of the new com-
pany was under consideration.
The Gremios were offered a part in the project, and had declined accepting the offer.
They hastened the departure of the vessel which was preparing for Manilla ; but the
elements, more favourable to the views of the minister than their intentions, soon obliged
it to return to Cadiz, after having received considerable damage. To have repaired
and refitted it would have been expensive, and must have required time. Government
offered to purchase the vessel and cargo, and the proposal was accepted. Thus was the first
expedition undertaken by the Philippme company, at the very instant of its establishment*
BOURCOANNE's travels is SPAIN.
493
Like nil new establishments, this company had some enthusiastic admirers, and
some biticr censors. These could not conceive how Spain, which had colonies much
nearer to her, and which were destitute of population and industry, could think of
improving first her most distant possessions. It was a matter of surprise to them, that
the management of trade which was to extend its branches to the most distant parts of
Asia, should be entrusted to three directors, not one of which had ever doubled the Cape
of Good Hope, and who had no other knowledge of the East Indies than what might
be looked upon as doubtful and incomplete. They thought it certain that Spain could
never advantageously enter into competition with nations who were experienced in the
traffic, and possessed all the benefit of priority. They looked upon this enterprise as
no other than an additional outlet for those metals, of which Spain is but a depository
for an instant. In India every station was already occupied ; every port, every compting-
house, every market was possessed by one or another power. Was then the Philippine
company to carry its speculations to China ? In that case, at the very outset she would
have to contend with rivals tremendously formidable. And what, at any rate, could
they draw from that country ? Tea ? It is hardly known in Spain ; and other countries
possess the means of importing it themselves, as well as of preventing any supply through
her bottoms. Porcelain ? This is a cumbersome article, iind would find but littie de-
mand ? Silks ? Would she distress the manufactories established at home ? Of these
different conjectures the latter appeared to be the most reasonable ; and, consequently,
the patent had scarcely made its appearance before the silk weavers of Catalonia made
the most earnest representations to government, and pressingly petitioned against the
measure.
Nothing can be deduced Aom the bad success of the first expedition. It was the
consequence of a circumstance which will not again occur. Galvez, constant in his
plan of directing arbitrarily whatever belonged in any shape to the duties of his administra-
tion, in the interval of the arrival of the commissaries of the company at the Philippine
Islands, gave the management to the governor. A stranger to commerce, the only arti-
cles which struck him as proper to take from China v/ere tea, muslin, and other mer-
chandise rejected by other nations ; so that as a consequent result of this ignorance, the
fijrst cargo remained at Ci^iz not entirely sold even in 1792.
The succeeding expeditions were more fortunate. Of three vessels which sailed toge-
ther, one, it is true, met with damage, which it repaired at the Isle of France ; the two
others however happily returned to Cadiz at the end of 1787, where their cargoes were
bought up with avidity, and some articles of them sold at 50 per cent, above the value
at which they were rated upon their first arrival. Malevolence would not take this mo-
mentary success for a prognostic of its future welfare ; it attributed it to the novelty of
the matter, and the small quantity of merchandise brought by the company ; and main-
tained, not without some probability on its side, that if a taste for these articles became '
established in Spain, they would be furnished at a cheaper rate by smugglers. ."■ ' ^ ' "
It surprises and excites one's indignation when jealousy and envy, finding shelter in
the breasts of little minded men who accidentally fill eminent and commanding stations,
sacrifice the public good to the gratification of their invidious appetite. Larena, ma-
liciously disposed towards the founder of the Philippine Company, entertained a similar
aversion for the establishment itself; and contraband trade, in consequence, met with
an abettor in the person \vho should iiave been its most inimical opponent. He allowed
all merchants to import muslins on the same terms as the Company. He imposed a
duty of 23 per cent, on worked or printed India goods which were brought from Caur
ton. This was giving these goods, which are vastly inferior to the manufactures brought
^tf
(
i
1
!
i
494
BOURCUANNE's rilAVELS IN SI'AiN.
from the Coromandcl coast by the otlicr nations of Europe, a rivalship wliich could not
fail to be- highly detrimental. It is true, the importation of goods ol' u similar descrip-
tion from any European port was strictly prohibited in Spain, but at the same time it is
well known, that there is no merchandise whatsoever but may be introduced into the
country lor a premium of 12 |H;r cent. Such Spaniards therefore as might prefer Indian
muslins would have an advantage of 11 per cent, in purchasing those which might be
smuggled.
Wliat chance of success with such opposition to its measures could there remain with
the company ? Notwithstanding this, it still maintained its ground. In 1792 its capital
was yet entire, and its shares, after having fallen to a discount of 50 per cent, had again
risen to par. The directors had produced their statement of balance, and satistied the
pro])ri«.'t(>rs that, allowingthe stock to be sold at a loss, and computing for several casual-
tits, there yet would be a profit kit.
In 1795 the company had made a profit of 22,000,000 of rials, /^oO.OOO sterling ; and
the three dividends which it has hitherto made in 1793, in 1795, and 1796, have been
at 5 per cent. each. Government, in order to compensate for non-arrivals, latterly grant-
ed it permission to introduce into Spain from European markets the value of 9,000,000
of plain India muslins. It has hitherto em[)loyed in the trade sixteen vessels of from
five hundred and thirty to eight hundred and eighty tons ; fourteen of which have re-
turned to Cadiz, and three are at sea. Besides tliesc the merchants, on account of the
company, have made seventeen expeditions, as well to the Caraccas, and Murucaybo, as
to Lima, all of which have arrived safe; and in 1796 they had a very profitable year
from the re-sale of the returns of American merchandise and cocoa.
This apparent good fortune does not however prevent many impartial judges from
auguring ill of the establishment ; and without partici^)ating in the animosity of the
enemies of its founder, may it not even no A', as it was in 1784, be regtirded as more
hurtful than beneficial, more brilliant than solid '? It w iP doubtless be obliged to aban-
don the importation of tea, dilHcult to be disposed of in the North, and more than ever
so in England ; it has no market in the middle of Europe, and can only find one in
Spain by becoming a substitute for chocolate, and thus injuring several colonies whose
prosperity is of more consequence to Spain than that of the ntfy company. Would not
the sales of its silk be injurious to the national manufactures of that article, which are at
present in a flourishing state, but which require assistance rather than discouragement?
And as to its muslins, would it not be more advantageous to Spain to manutacture the
raw cotton which she extracts from her colonies, and thus employ her idle hands at
home ; than to tax herself by contributing to the nourishment of distant industry, in
order to satisfy the expensive caprice of her £uro|)ean subjects ?
Spaniards, allies, open at length your eyes to your true interests. The structure of
your pros|)crity is at least begun. The ground is cleared from the rubbish with which
it had been covered by two ages of ignorance and bad calculation : the plan is sketched
out ; be careful of the foundation ; there will afterwards be dme enough to attend to the
embellishment of the front.
What government has effected for some time back for the benefit of Mexico, is at
least traced after a belter plan, and undisputed success has crowned its efforts. Galvez
entertained a particular predilection in favour of this vast and rich colony, the theatre of
his activity, his talents, and some of his extravagances. To him, in great measure, is
owing its flourishing state, which not only has tended to benefit the metropolis in
return, but has extended its influence to foreign nations also ; since the Mexicans, in-
creasing in wealth and population, have become proportionally anxiou ; for the enjoy-
ll
ROURCOANNE S TRAVELS IM SPAIN.
495
ments of the comforts and luxuries of the whole world, uud thus furnislt u daily aug.
inenting market for the productions of European industry.
Galvcz patronized the culture of wheat in this province ; and for twenty years past
its growth has bren equal to its consumption ; and may in time become adequate to the
demand of the whole of Spanish America.
Tobacco, which he introduced into two districts adjoining the capital, has become in a
few years the principal source of the revenue which the metropolis draws from its co*
lonies.
The miners of Mexico especially arc highly indebted toGalvez ; and, as a pledge of
gratitude, have settled on him a considerable annuity, reversible to his descendants. For
some time the mercury of the mines of Guancavelica, at first so abundant, were no longer
sufficiently productive for working the mines of Mexico. That of Almadin, the lust
village of La Mancha, on the confines of the kingdom of Cordova, had almost singly sup-
plied them. Galvez, by improving its works, procured a much larger quantity fron\
them. Before his ministry it yielded no more than seven or eight thousiuid hundred
weight annually ; he doubled its produce, and made an arrangement with the miners
by which the hundred weight, which formerly used to pay 80 piastres, was afforded
them at forty-one. The consequence was a notable augmentation in the produce of
their mines. In 1782 they already yielded 27,000,000 of piastres, and would have af-
forded 30,000,000, if there had been suflicient mercury, but at this period a defect
in the construction of the galleries of the mines of Almadin had occasioned an almost
total inundation, and suspending the working of it, the Spanish government in 1784
concluded a treaty with the emperor of Germany for six years, by which Spain was to
be furnished with 6000 cwt. annually, from the mines of Idria in Austrian Istria, at 52
piastres per cwt.
The miners have thus obtained the means of continuing their work, which has of late
years been more productive than ever, happening very opportunely for assisting Spain
to bear the expences of her war with France.
It is not easy to determine with exactitude the quantity of gold and silver which is
annually collected from the whole of the mines of Spanish America.* These metals are
coined at Lima, Santa Fi^ Carthagena, and particularly at Mexico ; but some is exported
in bars either legally or by contraband. It would seem however that the quaiuity might
be calculated from a knowledge of the amount of the duties which are paid upon the
whole of the American mines. But these duties have materially varied since the con-
quest of the country, and are not alike in every part of Spanish America.
At first, a fifth part was exacted from all the mines, except a few which were taxed
as low as a tenth, and some even a twentieth part.
In 1552, Charles V, caused an additional duty to be added of 1^ per cent, as a pay-
ment for ttie casting and essaying, a duty known in Peru by the name of Cobos.
At a later period the fifth part levied formerly, and which the greater part of Europe
still imagines to be in force, was reduced to a tenth for Mexico and Peru ; and for the
vice-royalty of Santa Fi to a twentieth of the gold, the only metal which it has produced
for a long time back, the duty of cobos still continued in each of these vice-royalties.
-'o In 1777 an alteration in the v :ties took place as far as regarded gold, which through-
out all America was taxed at no more than 3 per cent.
And, lastly, silver mines being found in 1790 at Santa Fi, they were assimilated with
those of Peru and Mexico.
fflfci^ 'scft rt^UiAV'-/ « • Compare this with the last note of Chapter VII. •; ;V'rw*» ■.: <*^ *?''*»''
i-,rT
496
BOUnCOANNE's TRAVCLS IH SPAIN.
The sum of duty paid therefore on siWer is 11^ per rent, nnd on gold 3 per cent,
only. Troni ihcsc duties, by knowing the amount of the king's duties, one might be
enabled to ascertain what is the amount of the productions of the mines to a nicety, but
with the returns which arc brought to Kurope on account of the king, other duties paid
in America are confounded : such as the customs, the profit on the resale of certain
objects, such as mercury, paper, Sec. Hence it is clear, that the real annual produce
can only be identified by those initiated into the arcana of finance.
In order, however, to form a near conjecture, the following data may be added to
those which wc have previously given.
It is ascertained that, on an average of late years, Mexico alone has yielded from 20
to 25 millions of piastres ; that, at Vera Cruz, one fourth part more of metals is em-
barked than at all the other ports together, including Lima, at which port one half of
the metals are shipped, produced elsewhere than in Mexico. Taking therefore the
product of the mines of tnis latter viceroyalty to be no more than 20 millions, the rest
of America will furnish fifteen, of which seven and a half will be the portion aftbrded by
Peru.
From this calculation it follows, that of late years the mines of Spanish America will
have yielded annually 35,000,000 of dollars; an amount, the enormity of which would
almost make me doubt of the exactitude of the data, notwithstanding the source from
which my information is derived. If however, as appears to be the case, the produce
of the mines continue annually increasing, should we not have room to be alarmed at
the mass of circulation which it must occasion in Europe, if there were not a trade to
Asia and China to absorb the superfluity ?
This progressive increase is without doubt profitable to the individuals to whom the
mines belong, whose revenue increasta with the produce. But is it ecjually beneficial
to Spain considered as a nation ?
This weighty doubt full well deserves a question.
Supported by the evidence of the last century, many well informed strangers would
not hesitate in answering this question. They would say (and meet with more than one
good citizen beyond the Pyrenees of their opinion) that this excessive multiplication
of currency opposes the actual disposition of the Spaniards to manufactures ; that the
price of every thing as well in Spain itself as in other countries must keep pace with the
increase of coin ; that if Spanish industry be so far exerted as to retain at liome this aug«
mentation of currency, at present employed in paying the balance of trade to foreigners,
the consequence will shortly be that the enhancement of the price of labour will again
put a stop to industry in the midst of its career, and cause it to retrograde in an everlast-
ing circle, whose rounds it will never be able to exceed. '"
Upon this principle one would advise the Spaniards thus : " Far from attempting
to extract from your mines the whole of what they are capable of producing, rather let
a part of them be closed : restrict the exportation of your metals to the old continent to
the quantity necessary for replacing that diminution which insensibly takes place, the con-
sumption which luxury makes thereof for furniture, and what the covetous hoard up,
either in Europe or in Asia. Follow the example of Portugal, which limits the digging
of its diamond mines, in order not to lessen their value ; and that of Holland, which
burns the surplus of her spices as soon as her absolute demands are answered. In the
silver of Mexico behold your diamonds, your spices. If you treble the amount of their
productions, your miners, whose strength might be better employed, will undergo more
labour, but make you none the richer. You will have as a consequence to pa^ a triple
price for foreign manufactures which you cannot do without.
BounooAN.vb 3 rn.wcLu m ii'ain.
497
prr cent,
night be
ccty, Init
ties paid
)f certain
produce
iddcd to
from 20
Is is em-
c half of
L-forc the
the rest
brdc'd by
erica will
ch would
roe from
produce
armed at
I trade to
I'hom the
)cneficial
;rs would
; than one
:iplication
; that the
2 with the
this aug-
jreigners,
will again
everlast-
ttempting
rather let
ntinent to
, the con-
hoard up,
e digging
id, which
. In the
nt of their
frgomore
tv a triple
To these arguments, ccrtiiinly s|H:cious, this is the ansuer in Spain . ■ lor ourpait
we see nothing alarming in this increase of currency : in the first nlicc, the revenue is
benefited by it ; and, while all the other states of Kurope arc cmpioved in augmenting
their revenue, which in this cnlinnccment they find the means of Ixaring up against
the cxpentc of grand tnttrj)rises in peace as well as in war, by what fatality in it, that
Spain alone should meet her ruin in what causes the prosperity of olher states?
'• We may say the same of our manufactories. Should they increase in proportion
with the augmentation of the revenue of our mines, «)ur currency nill at that rule be-
come the more abundant by the addition of those sums which we have heretofore been
accustomed to pay for foreign njaniifaclurcs, as well as the surplus of Mexico and Peru
Yet even in this ease we see nothing to intimidate ; we wish rather to know which arc
the most flourishing nations. Are tliey not Kngland and France ? and do they not pos
seas beyond comparison the most abundant currency ? Of what consequence is it from
what source it flowii ? Joint produce of our mines and our industry, our \vealih will
not be less useful to Spain in the hands of great capitalists, who will embellish our towns,
and our fields, and furnish funds for public establishments, tjf which, in critical cases, the
state may borrow mone|', or meet assistance from at a less burthensome expeiue than
heretofore. We arc willing to allow that a perio<l may arrive when our prosperity ,
having attained its acme, may bring on our decline ; a period when our artisans and
manufacturers may become so active and perfect as to render all recourse to foreigners
for supply no longer necessary ; if, while in such a state of prosperity, the produce of
our mines still continue to augment our currency without any channel for its passage
from us ; assuredly in such a situation, the idea of which may be looked upon as chi-
merical, would carry with it an unavoidable inconvenience. The excessive price of
manual labour in Sptun would invite foaign manufacturers in spite of every prohibi-
tion ; the national manufactories would be at a stand for want of sale ; their useless
hands by degrees would disappear for want of employment, and Spain be given up
anew to depopulation, idleness, and poverty. At present, however, we are far from
the circumstances which would justify such an assumption, and, until more eminent
danger condemn either our manufactures, or our miners to inactivity, we deem it not
amiss to draw from this double source .the means of our future prosperity."
Whether this reasoning be just or no, it has formed the base of the plan followed by
Spain for several years. She is persuaded that her greatest splendour is to be derived
from the full activity of hermanLifactories, and the abundant productions of her mines.
Experience hitherto appears to establish the excellence of her plan, but is it well
adapted to the position, manners, and political interests of Si>ain ? Arc there no other
means of enlivening at once the metropolis and the colonies ? Repeatedly have schemes
been proposed which had this grand object in view. I shall say nothing of one for
which neither Spain nor any other European power is yet rii^e. I shall not observe that,
following the dictates of wholesome philosophy, the court of Madrid ought to proclaim
the inde|)endence of its colonies, and take advantage of the enthusiasm which this act
of generosity would not fail of exciting to establish between the two countries treaties
of niendship and commerce, much more solid in themselves than the tics stipulated in
treaties formed upon interest and intrigue. No, there were no such painful efforts at
any time proposed to Spain.
About ten years ago a project v/as proposed to the court of Madrid which would liave
entirely changed the face of the commercial world to the advantage of Spain. The pro.
ject was not to cut through die isthmus of Panama, as more than once had been in con-
templation, but to open a communication between the gulf of Mexico and the South
VOL. V. 3 s
4yb
HOl'lU.OANNC 3 TRAVII.t IN IPAIK.
Sen i ntid thus at once rcHolvc the problem of the most easy method of bhortcnin^ the
conmicrciul corrcs[)niKlct)cc between Kurope and the industriouH and rcrtilc partn ot
Iksules the old scheme of joininj» the tuo seas by meann of the river Chag;ii, which Is
iiavi)(ubk' as fur usCruzcs ^\ ithin live lengtics of I'anama, there was a necond which should
etVcct this junction bv acomnuiiiicatiou cut between the rivers Chamaluziii and 8 tn Mi-
guel in the gulf of Honduras. Uoth the one and the other in the reigi) of Philip II,
mid been found impracticable. That which was proposed in the reign of Charles III,
seemed to have ol»viated every objection, and united every advantage. It consisted in
profiting by the Hio Sant Juan, which has its source in the lake of Nicaragua, and
empties itself into the gulf of Mexico. This lake is separated from the South Sea by
nn isthmuH no more than twelve thousand fathoms wide. Its neighbourhood abounds in
commodities of every description, and wood fit for ship-building. From th.c course of
flowing rivers, the waters of the lake must necessarily Ix: either above or in the level
with both seas ; there consequently could be no foundation for the apprehensioit of any
flood or violent eruption.
The adoption of this plan would not only have rendered the lake of Nicaragua the
centre of the most brilliant commerce in the universe, but at the same lime, of »'
Spanish army and navy for the East Indies, and the market for all the valuable {
ductions of both Americas.
This fine prospect did not dazzle the Spanish government. The authors of the pro-
ject were French, and it began to be tired of seeing foreigners, and particularly French-
men, continually proposing grand enterprises. In this instance the inconveniences struck
them now more forcibly than the advantages. It woidd for several years have attracted
the attention of importunate observers to the most valuable, the central p n of her
American dominions. What facility would it not have afforded these unwelcoinc guests
to implant all along this coast, and from the botcom of the vermillion sea to the straits
of Magellan the seeds of insurrection, which had been but too much encouraged already
by her espousing the cause of the free Americans ? What plenteous means of stocking
all her colonies with contraband articles, and particularly those who, more civilized and
wealthy than the rest, had a greater taste for, and superior means to purchase the luxu-
ries of Europe? on the other hand, if the execution of this project were really to
Kromote the splendour and force of Spain in the New World ; had she the right to flatter
erself, that the other powers of Kurope woidd tactily sufll-k it to advance lo its com-
pletion ? And in this last position would she not have rather been working for danger-
ous rivals than for herself? Could she expect to reserve exclusively for herself the en-
joyment of communication ? She had no longer the bulls of Alexander VI, to oppose
to the navigating powers, or the cupidity of merchants. The passages must consequent-
ly be kept open to all powers. This would be therefore granting to all a transit at all
times through the centre of her possessions, and furnish them with an opportunity of
stopping and residing there under various pretences. What advantages could compen-
sate for the inconveniences of a similar superveyance ? The nations whom nature has
condemned to such a position, such as the Turks with respect to the Dardanelles, and
the Bosphorous of Thrace, must neccessarily submit to their fate ; but surely it would be
the very height of folly in a nation to create for itself such a pregnant soiirce of quarrels
and danger.
Such, without doubt, were the considerations which prevented the court of Spain
from countenancing the project of which I have given the outline. Doubtless it will, at
some future period, be carried into executioDi but it will be by a neighbouring nation,
^ ~ ■
noUROOANNF*! IIIAVCL* IN iil'AIN.
AW
l>y a new people who in the first cIKtvcmthcc of lihcrty :uul t'onuncrri.it ^rtiius, will
break throu}i;h the niouiuls which pnvciit itM coiirMC, an thty h;ivc already lorcod thcii
wuj by the month of a f^n at river to the «)eeaii. Povtibly ii will fill to your lot, specu.
lative inhubitanls of Kentucky, to nerve first the tea at your tul)lc's, and clothe firnt your
wivcM and (laughters with the rich drcssis that you yf)nrsilveH will have brouf^ht from
India without making the tour nf South Anurica or doubling th'.* Cape of Good liope.
But SpaniardH, who have exiiansttd tin m.v Ivcs ii\ grand enterprises, who are timidly
circumspect and cautious as* age ; Spaniards coidd with diflicuUy embrace so bold an un
dcrtaking, particularly with a council for her Indian alVairs, whi(*h religiously and ohbti-
natcly maintains its ancient tiiaxinis, and a minister at its head essentially jealous and ever
rcody to take umbrage.
Spain has effected a great deal, in throwing off the yf)ke of matjy p'-ejudices with
which she was shackled, and which kept lu-r and lur colonies in a stftte of mortal lan-
guor; in cstablinbing manulactories, in making roads and Ix ginning different canals, in
having granted u sort of free trade to her Indies; in one word, in having produced a no-
table increase of industry augmented the riches, and given a spur to the activity of her
population. This is sufficient to n 'ntc by Htcts a part of the heavy blame with which the
rest of Europe has been accuston\. d to load the Sjuiniards, the appreciation of whose
character sitall be the objects of the ncxl chapters.
CHAPTER X.
GHARACTEK OF THE PKOrLE IN OKNERAI.. SOMR THAITH IN THAT or THK SPANIAHDH. HIOH
ariRIT. OHAVITV. SLOWNK!»H. IDLKNKMH. HV PKItSri I ION.
IT is not an easy matter to delineate the character of a nation. Almost all represen.
tations of this nature may be likened to those portraits which, from a master's hand, and
traced by a brilliant pencil, possess every olher merit but that of an exact reacmblancc.
It is not from similar descriptions that any idea of a modern people can be formed.
Since Europe has become civilized from one extremity to the other, its inhabitants
ought rather to be classed, according to their professions, than their country. Thus,
although not all Englishmen, all Frenchmen, or all Spaniards, resemble each other, yet
amoig these three nations such as have received the samci education, lead nearly the sitme
kinc'. of life. Thus all their lawyers assimilate in their attachment to forms and litigation,
ell their learned in pedantry, all their merchants in cupidity, all their sailors in rudeness,
and all their courtisans in servility.
In order to produce a nation, the moral and physical physiognomy of the individuals
composing which should be alike, it would be necessary that they should all be under
the influence of the same climate, be similarly addicted to the same occupations, and foU
low the same worship. It would be requisite, if they were a polished people, that they
should live under a firm government, and that the part which they might share in it,
should give to their ideas, their passions, and even to the external expression of their
frame, a certain uniform and constant stamp. The union of all these qualities alone
could justify the picturing a nation by an individual indiscriminately selected. A single
variation in either of the points noticed will be sufRcicnt to vary the physical and moral
features ad infinitum. Hence it were an easy matter to pourtray the character of the
ancient Scythians, of pastoral nations, of the savages of Canada, and of all biirbarous
races, whose religion is simple, who have but few laws, and maintain but little cqmmu-
nication with any other people. . , , * . .. . t . . , . v ? i . .
3 s 2
500
BOURCOANNE's TUAVELS in SPAIN.
Hence it is th&t the Greeks and Romans, in the happy periods of their republics,
almost entirely devoted to the love of their country, liberty and fame ; inhabiting a con-
fined space, where the influence of climate was every where nearly alike ; and each taking
a part more or less active in the government ; might be generally described by the same
lineaments.
Hence that among modern nations, the English, Swiss nnd Cutch, would be nearer
this uniformity ; the first from that universal inquietude which fixes their attention upon
;;overnment, whose operations arc submitted to their inspection, from their insular situa-
tion which fits them generally for navigation and the spe :ulations of maritime com-
inerce ; and from that national pride which is in some meas.tre justified by their domi*
nion of the sea, but feebly contested any where. The Swiss Trom their geographical
position, which until lately rendered them passive spectators of the troubles of £urope.
The Dutch, who, in spite of the slight differences which b«.-fore these late commotions
existed between the modes of government in use throughout their seven provinces, had
all of them a point of union in their attuchment to liberty, in the nature of their territory,
in their situation en the banks of seas and canals, whence must necessarily result an uni-
formity of occupatioiis, taste, and even of passions. ' '«
But who can Hatter himself with the idea of giving a good portrait of the whole Ger-
man, Italian, and French nations ? What a difference between the climates, produc-
tions, employments, laws and language of one province and those of another ! Who
would apply to an inhabitant of Westphalia the description of a Saxon or an Aus-
trian ; that of a Neapolitan to a Venetian ; or th' .. of a Fleming to an inhabitant of
Langucdoc ?
The Spaniards are in the same situation as these three nations. There are in the in-
habitants of their chief provinces such striking differences of climate, manner, language,
habits, character, and even exterior furm, that the portrait of a Galician would more
resemble a native of Auvergne than a Catalonian, and that of an Andalusian a Gascon
more than a Castilian. If the Spaniards ever had characteristic marks, applicable to all
the inhabitantsof their pen '.isula, it was when the Arabians, by establishing themselves
in the nation, had stamped it with a particular impression, and notwithstanding the dif-
ferent causes which kept them separate from it, communicated a part of their manners,
their noble, grand, and even sometimes colossal ideas ; their taste ior the arts and scien-
ces, and every thing of which traces are still found in the provinces where they mostly
resided. Then it was that the high idea the Spaniards entertained of their nation, and
which was justified by circumstances, appeared in their persons ; and gave them all a
resemblance to the description of the present cay, when represented grave, austere, gene-
rous, and breathing nothing but war and adventures. It was, in fine, when in their gene-
ral assemblies, which they called Cortes, all took a part, more or less active, in the gov-
ernment ; directing or watching its operations, and feeling more strongly than at present,
that patriotism which acts so powerfully upon the opinions, affections, and manners, of
those whom it animates.
But these three causes of uniformity in national character have almost entirely dis-
appeared, and left the Spaniards more subject to the influence of climate, and the laws and
productions of their different provinces ; so tho.'c to describe them in their present state,
they should be divided into Castilians, Catalonians, Arragonese, Navarrians, Anda-
lusians, and Asturians, and to each of these people should be assigned a particular
portrait ; a diflicult and disagreeable task, which could never be completed without almost
' contiqually placing the exception by the side of the rule; in which it would be scarcely
BOURCOANNit. S TKAVELS IN STAIS.
501
republics,
ting a con.
?ach taking
)}' the same
1 be nearer
intion upon
sular situa-
itime com-
their domi*
:ographical
of Europe,
ommotions
vinces, had
ir territory,
iult an uni'
ivhole Ger-
:s, produc-
er ! Who
)r an Aus-
habitant of
c in the in*
', language,
rould more
n a Gascon
icable to all
themselves
ing the dif.
ir manners,
i and scien>
hey mostly
nation, and
: them all a
stere, gene-
their gene-
in the gov-
at present,
lanners, of
ntircly dis-
lie laws and
esent state,
ins, Andd'
I particular
lout almost
be scarcely
possible to be exact without descending to minuteness, to be just without being severe,
or an eulogist v/ithout appcuring to flutter.
However, this revolution hus not been so complete as not to leave many features, by
which the w! ole Spanish nation may still be known. A part of its manners have sur-
vived the event by which they were chan^rcd. The influence of its climate has been mo-
dified, but not destroyed. In many respects the provinces have the same form of eo-
vemment. The court of un ubsolutc monarch is still the centre of all their good wishes
and affections. All the modern Spaniards profess the same religion. In literature
they preserve still the same taste, und copy the same models. In some instances they
have retained a resemblance to their ancestors, and this is what I shall endeavour to
point out.
At that period when Spain discovered and conquered the New World, when not con-
tented with reigning over a great part of Europe, she agitated and convulsed the other
by her intrigues or military ent' rprises ; the Spaniards were intoxicated with that na-
tional pride which apjieared in the exterior of their persons, in their gestures, language
and writings. As there was then some reason for this, it gave them an air of grandeur
which was pardoned by those whom it failed to inspire with respect. But by a concur-
rence of unfortunate circumstances this splendour is no more, and the assuming man-
ners which it palliated have survived its eclipse. The Spaniard of the ;sixtcenth century
has disappeared, but his mask remains. Hence that exterior of high spirit and gravity
by which he is at present distinguished, and which have frequently recalled to my recol-
lection two lines of one of our poets on the subject of origmal sm, notwithstanding the
consequences of which th<? sublime station man was intended to fill is still easy to be
known. . , - ''^ ■""
»,■■.*«•• ;. I C'estOv> haul de son trone unroiprecipite,
Qui garde sur son front un trait de majeste.*
The modem Spaniard still preserved in his air and gesture the marks of his ancient
greatness. Whether he spe^s or writes, his expressions have an exaggerated turn
which comes near to bombast. He has an exalted idea of his nation and of himself,
and expresses it vithoutthe least disguise of art. His vanity does not shew itself off
with those pleasant exaggerations which provoke laughter rather than anger, and which
characterise the inhabitants of one of the provinces of France. When he boasts it is
gravely, with all the pomp of language. In a word, the Spaniard is a Gascon who has
put on the buskin.
I am nevertheless much disposed to believe that the genius of the language may
also be o. e reason for this pompous style. The Spaniards have not only adopted many
words and expressions from the Arabic, but their language is impregnated, as it were,
with the oriental spirit which the Arabians naturalized in Spain. This is found in :U1
the productions of Spanish imagination, in works of piety, in comedies and novels.
It b, perhaps, one of the causes of the slow progress of sound philosophy, since by
every thing being carried beyond the truth, by the accumulation of images round the
most simple ideas, and by favouring whatever borders upon the wonderful, the sanctu*
ary of truth is surrounded with illusion and rendered as it were inaccessible.
But the loftiness of the Spaniard, which would be noble were it more moderate, and
that gravity which always awes, and sometimes repels, are compensated by very estima-
ble qualities, or are rather the source of those qualities. Individual as well as natiotial
pride, elevates the mind and guards it against meanness } and such is the effect of Spa-
* He is a king precipitated from lus throne, who still preserves on bis brow some feature, of majesty.
502
BOVRCOANNE's travels in SPAIN.
nish haughtiness. In Spain there are vices and crimes as well us in otlier countries ; but
in general they bear this national chanictcribtic. It is ubservablu in the most obscure
classes, in dungeons, and even under rags and misery. It balances, in a certain degree,
the genius of the language, which is naturally diffuse, and in which the car seems to be
gratified by an accumulation of sonorous words, frequently mistaking multiplied expres-
sions for a superabundance of ideas. Loftiness is commonly laconic; it disdains detail
and loves enigmatical expressions, bccau'^e they arc concise i leaving room for thought,
and sometimes for conjecture. Hence is it that the same Spaniards who, when their
imagination is in the least warmed, display all the luxury or their language, arc pithy
when their mind is calm. Of this I might give a hundred examples, but I shall men-
tion only tuo. I Iiad occasion to speak to a Spaniard of the lowest class, and found him
with a serious countenance caressing a little child. I asked him if he were the father ?
A Frenchman of the siime rank would have modesUy answered, Yes, Sir ; or, at least,
I believe so ; adding much more on the subject than I might wish to hear. The Casti-
lian, without disturbing himself, or even receiving my question with a smile, answered
me coldly : " he was born in my house," and immediately turned the discourse to some
other subject. Another example of their Spartan shortness was afforded me by a French
traveller. He met on his entrance into Castile with a shepherd, who was driving a flock
of sheep. Desirous of learning what gave its exquisite quality to the Spanish wool,
Frenchman-like, he loaded him with questions, and asked in a breath. If his flock be-
longed to that district ? what they lived upon ? if he was travcliin|; ? where he came
from ? whither he was going ? what period of the year he began his journey ? and when
he returned ? The shepherd, listening patiently to his volume of questions, answered
him coolly : aqui nacen ; aqui pacen ; aqui muercn ;* and continued on his way.
This gravity, which is proverbial, is yet very wide of what it is generally supposed to
be ; in fact it excludes in the Spaniards what we call aflllibility. They do not anticipate,
but wait for you. But this austere covering frequently conceals a good and benevolent
mind, which ihe least examination may distinguish. Strangers to the unmeaning hy-
pocrisy of French politeness, the Spaniards are sparing of professions. Their smile of
benevolence is not merely a courtesy, for their heart in common opens with their fea-
tures. How often have I been repulsed by the exterior of a Spaniard, remaining a long
time without being able to conquer my repugnance, which was all that was necessary, to
find in him, not an affected, but a real comphiisance ; not that obliging manner which
promises, but that which grants ! The Spaniards are, perhaps, in want of that urbanity,
which is the result of what we call a refined education, but which too frequently serves
as a covering to falsehood and disdain. They supply this by that unaffected frankness
and good nature, which announces and inspires confidencf
The great among them have no dignity, if by that word be meant a circumspectiofi ^
that fears to provoke familiarity, and which looks less for affection than respect ; they :
make no mortifying distinction of classes, nor disdain to form connections among those t
beneath them in rank. They have no longer among them a duke of Alba, a don Louis
de Haro, and a Peneranda, whose characters, displayed in the face of Europe, have un«^
doubtedly contributed to propagate the idea still entertained of the imperious haughtiness
of the Spanish nobility of the first rank, at least it is no longer of the description it was,
then. If some have still preserved the traces of it, in them it b less haughuness than
coolness, timidity, and embarrassment. > rit-,jl«n>$«i
*'« Here they were bom, here they feed, and here they die." After the Spanish fashion it is a me-
trical reply of some beauty, ir ■■.■■^.l' -♦.I ! 4 . . ' ■>•"' .- ■ .. ji. rtv^i M.JfS .1 ;'.!»• '7^
^"e. ^-=
bourcoanne's travels in sfaik.
SOS
»^W
..(J
Not but there arc grandees among them, and others, who, without possessing that rank,
deem themselves descended from an equally illustrious origin ; who entertain a lofty
opinion of their race, and manifest it upon certain occasions, particularly when in pre-
sence of those who pretend to place themselves on a footing with them. The pride of
tutoiement, of which we have spoken before, is an evident proof of this, which con-
stantly exists ; but this loftiness disappears among them when addressed by their inferiors
who solicit favours ; and is entirely lost at court. Here their dignity frequently stoops,
even to meanness. Despotism, notwithstanding the clothing of benignity in which for
this century past it has been uniformly clad, seems to overpower it by its weight and
make it almost contemptible. Stationed in its presence, the nobles meet with nothing
but tiresomeness, and abasement, and have not spirit enough to seek by a removal for
amusement and independence. Much more truly may it be said of them as was formerly
of the nobles of France. ♦' They might, if they would, be little sovereigns ou their
own estates, they preferbeing lacqueys at court." Exceptions to this rule are very
rare and are consequently noticed. There are however some who prove that they feel,
if not the dignity of their being, at least that of their race. I have noticed some who
of their own accord banish themselves for some time from court, and prefer the ap-
pearance of being in disgrace to the shame of a mean condescension ; and others bold
enough to make use of somewhat sharp repartees. One of these who was most inti-
mate with the reigning sovereign, when he was but prince of Asturias, is remarkably
short of statue. The prince was continually joking with him about it. One day, tired
of having himself continually called little he replied with great coolness, and was heard
with jut anger ; segnor, en mi casa me Uaman grande. Sire, at home they call me great.
The Vj'.ives of the grandees seem to have preserv d more of the stiffness that is attri-
buted to the inobility of Spain th- \ny others. It is impossible for mortals to be more
cold, more grave, or more insij. fhan the greater part of these noble ladies ; there
are, heswcver, five or six who do not participate in these attribiit' ^ ; L shall not mention
their names, as I should be unwilling to *;o disscntion among those txauties, whose
charms are the most pleasing ornament of the court.
In other respects, this gravity serves but as a veil in persons of every class to cheer-
fulness, which needs but to be excited. To prove this, I sha'' not ha'-2 recourse to
the Spanish theatres, where buffooneries are so well received ; this would rather bean ar-
gument against my assertion, because it has been remirked, that theatrical representa-
tions, in nations famous for their gaiety, are more serious than those of a different com-
Elexion ; as if the mind were most delighted with those emotions most opposite to its
abitual state.
But in order to judge, whether or not the Spaniards ve the vivacity I attribute
to them, take them in their colonies, where they are ai ttieir ease ; their repasts, even
before the vapours of the food and wine have acted on the brain ; dieir conversations
then abound in sprightliness, pleasantry, and equivoque ; all either the legitimate or ille-
gitimate offspring of vivacity ; and afterwards determine whether they be not more
open, and humour better supported than in French societies. Undoubtedly he will
say, that this vivacity is too noisy, and not courteous. But foul befal that delicacy
which encourages tiresome insipidity, Let this cheerfulness, however, be ornot hie
condemned by the caprice of fashion, it does not the less exist because our prejudices
are different.
Similar observations may be made on other defects with which the Spaniards are re-
proached. If I have not quite absolved them from the charge of-idleness, I assert again
that it is the consequence of transient circumstances which will disappear with them. In
504
BOURCOANNE's TRAVRLS in SPAIN.
fact, when wc witness the activity which appears upon the coast of Catalonia, through-
out the whole kingdom of Valentia, in the mountains of Biscay, and every where in
short, where industry is encouraged, and commodities have an easy and certain sale ;
when, on the other hand, we observe the laborious life of the muleteers and calessieros,
who courageously lead their mules and drive their carriages through the most dangerous
roads ; the husbandmen, who, in the plains of La Mancha and Andalusia, become
hardy by their labours in the field, and which labour, the nature of the soil, the distance
of their dwelling, and the heat of the most burning climate in Europe, render far more
painful than in other countries ; when wc consider the number of Galicians and Astu-
rians who, like our Auvergnacs and Limousins, seek far off from home their slow and
painful means of subsistence ; ii\ short, when wc perceive that the idleness with which
the Spaniards are reproached, is principally limited tc the boundaries of the two Castiles,
that is, to those parts of Spain which are the most unprovided with roads, canals, and
r.civigablc rivers, and most distant from the sea ; it is but just to conclude, that this
vice is not an indelible stain, nor a general characteristic of the Spanish nation.
They have another defect which borders closely upon idleness ; this is slowness ; and
from this it would be more difficult to exculpate the Spaniards. It must, candidly speak-
ing, be allowed, that knowledge penetrates but very gradually in Sp.'»in. In political
measures, war, and all the operations of the government, nay, even in the common
occurrences of life, when other nations act, they still deliberate. Mistrustful and cir-
cumspect, they fail in as many affairs from slowness, as others from precipitation. This
is the more extraordinary, as their lively imagination seems of a nature to be irritated
by delay. But in nations, as in individuals, there is no single quality which is not fre.
quently modified by a contrary one, and in the struggle, the triumph is ever on the side
to which the mind is most forcibly disposed by the circumstance of the moment. Thus
the Spaniard, naturally cool and deliberate when nothing extraordinary actuates him, is
inflamed to enthusiasm, if his pride, resentment, or any of the passions which coftiposc
his character, be awakened, whether by insult or opposition. And his nation, appa-
rently the most grave, phlegmatic and slow in Europe, sometimes becomes one of the
most violent when incidents destroy its habitual calm and leave it to the empire of the
imagination. The most dangerous animals are not those which are most prone to agi-
tation. The aspect of the lion is grave as his jiace ; iiis motions are not without an ob-
ject, his r'^arings not in vain. Let his quiet be unmolested, he cherishes silence and
peace ; bv t let him be provoked, you see his mane erect ; his eye balls glow with fire ;
you hear his hollow roar ; and acknowledge the lord of the forest.
I do not mean by this parody to insinuate that Spain is the lion of Europe, which,
however, was the case in former times. I simply mean to maintain, that in tier is evi-
denced more plainly than in any other nation, that qualities apparently irreconcileable may
be united in the same character : such as violence and tardiness, cool gravity and extreme
irascibility. This mixture is visible in two of his principal aifections, his courage and
devotion. With an appearance of equal calmness in each, the < ,ie in the character of
the Spaniard swells into fury, the other into fanaticism. Not in me will those excesses
so frequently ridiculous, and at times atrocious, into which he is lead by his wrong con-
ceived attachment to religion, not in me will they meet an advocate ; nor at the same
time will I in any way attempt to lessen the pretensions to esteem which are the natural
right of his undisputed courage.
On the contrary I will allow that, with the exception of a few Spaniards of the pre-
sent day, the nation is religiously credulous and attached to the mummery of the church,
in one word that it is justly accused of superstition. It may even be said, and the ob-
BOURCOANNL G TRAVKI.S IN SPAIN.
50.N'
servation be taken ia its full sense, that this disfigured Iiastard sister of religion has
continued almost uninterruptedly either in possession of the throne, or hovering round
the court. She reigned constantly in conjunction with the weak and sickly Charles II.
She was a copartner with Philip V, a good and virtuous monarch but destitute ol
energy, pious and sincere but ever in the extreme. And notwithstanding the taste for
splendour and pleasure, which characterised Ferdinand VI, she still was his colleague.
Less rigid towards these three sovereigns and their successor than to the greater part of
their subjects, sha yet sheltered them from all pravity of manners, and so much so
that the rare phenomenon was presented to the world of a succession of several kings
who never sought for enjoyment in the arms of a mistress.
As to Charles III, simple in his manners, cxemplarily regular in his private life,
scrupulously just even in matters of policy, to the day of his death, as well in words as
in deeds, he always paid his tribute to superstition.
It particularly belonged to the founder of the order of St. Januarius, whose motto is
in sanguine fcedus, to place implicit credence ;n the litjuefaction of the blood of that
Neapolitan saint. An occasion once offered of his manifesting the blind belief which
he had of this prodigy. I have heard him relate that while he reigned at Naples the
miracle was all at once at a stand. The holy phial was shook in vain. Long ,vas the
cause of it sought for, at last it was found. It must be observed that the phial is kept
within the shrine of the saint, but on one side, and separated by a partition from his
tomb. A tradition existed at Naples that in order to cause the blood to preserve its
liquid state, not the smallest communication must exist between the body of St. Januarius
ftnd his miraculous blood. Now upon examining the tomb minutely, a chink was
found in the partition which separated the tomb from the phial. The damaged divi-
sion was hereupon quickly repaired, and immediately the blood became as liquid as be-
fore. Let who will explain this wonder. One cannot however refuse it credit, for, as
Lafontaine observes "kings never tell a lie," and of Charles III, perhaps more than
any other might this be truly said.
This prince took delight in relating, perhaps a still more strange event. The reader
may possibly recollect the danger which he ran in 1744, when an Austrian army, com-
manded by Lobkowitz, proceeded to Naples, with a view of dethroning Don Carlos,
(himself) and the good fortune he had of escaping at the battle of Velletri. The suc-
cess of the day, according to the prince, was owing to a battery of cannon, fortunately
placed at the end of a street, through which the Austrians were to proceed to seize him.
The battery played upon them so efficaciously, that they were obliged to retire, and
take another road, losing not only their prey, but the victory as well. At the close
of the battle, his majesty rr.^de inquiry, what faithful and well inforn.'ed subject he
had to thank for the disposition of these protecting cannon. He was sought for with
avidity throughout, the army, and a great reward was promised hin>. Nobody ap-
peared. Hence Don Carlos, and those who were with him, doubted not an instant,
that the Almighty himself had placed the battery there ; and this belief Charles III, car-
ried with him to the* tomb.
His faith, in the immaculate conception, was consecrated by an order which he in-
stituted, to which he gave that title. He left his virtues to his successor for an inheri-
tance, without forgetting among the number, that first of theological virtues, which
seenis to be one of the necessary attributes of those monarchs, called for distinction's
sake most catholic. , , .
It will readily be conceived, that kings so pious as these must necessarily be sur-
rounded by servants, and have at the same time a number of subjects, animated witli
VOL. V, 3 T
— <?-
506
UOirnCOANNC's travels in SPAIN.
the same zeal for rtlip^ion, and whatever relates thereto ; and so far justiec must be
done the Spanish nobility, the ministers, and generals, to say lliat, in this respect, for by
much the greater part, they strive to conform with their auf^nst model. There are few
among the great but what possess relics among their jewels ; or who ever fail to attend
at niatiins to chaunt their anthem to the virgin.
Of Galvez (whom no one can charge with pos',essing a weak mind) I have heard
it rc!'>ted, that he was a witness to the following fact. Being once at Seville, he had
the feciln^ to ()eh()ld the body of St, Ferdinand. The air of serenity, which was spread
over his features so forcibly inspired devotion, that none could withstand its influence.
An Knglislnuan, who was among the spectators, and who previously had been ac-
customed to s|)eak in the lightest manner of the ceremonials of the Roman catholic faith,
was so much aftlcted by the venerable aspect of the saint, that he burst into tears in the
midst of the church, immediately became converted, and was afterwards among the
most devout. The same minister once also related before me, that when he was at
Mexico, he saw the corpse of the first bishop of Guadalaxara, who died in sanctitutis
odore. His body was preserved from corruption : drest in his episcopal robes, he seem-
ed to be wrapt in peaceful slumber. At that time his beatification was in course of dis-
cussion ; and certainly "there was," said he, "ample reason tor it." His whole life
had been a tissue of miracles. Do but judge. Before he was called to the bishopric,
he was coimcillor of audience at Guadalaxara. A criminal process was instituted be-
fore this tribunal. The accused was judged worthy of death, and by every voice,
even by that of the future bishop, the culprit was sentenced to die. But when the
condemnation was presented to the judges, the holy man pertinaciously refused to
sign it. It was insisted that he should. At length, urged so strongly, he observed,
"bishops may not sign a sentence of death." "But you are not a bishop," they re-
plied, " I feel that I am," said he. At first it was thought his brain was deranged.
They were undeceived when some months afterwards they learned, that on the very day
of his refusing his signature, the pope had made him bishop of Guadalaxara.
Are more general evidences necessary of the propensity of the Spaniards to supersti-
iious credulity ? It may be recollected that in 1780 the Spanish navy experienced a vio-
lent check in the roads of Cadiz. One of their squadrons was surprised by Rodney, and
defeated in spite of the bravery of Langera. Four of his ships were taken by the Eng-
li!.«h, called the Phoenix, the Diligent, the Princess, and the San Domingo. All those
wh'ch escaped bore the names of differeiU saints. The people did not fail to take notice
of this, and as by a singular accident the San Domingo blew up at the instant of its being
moored, they said that its patron chose rather to see her perish than pass into the hands
of infidels.
I however wish it to be understood that I by no means imagine these remarks were
made by the officers of this squadron. They do not all of then: resemble admiral
Baroelo, who from a simple lighterman attained the highest stations in the navy, and
who was used to say that for his part bravery was no virtue in him because he was in-
vulnerable ; and shewing his scapulary would observe seriously, that he had seen many
a bullet while coming direct towards him turn on one side as it approached this talis-
man. There are it cannot be denied among all the different classes of the Spanish na-
tion, people who are credulous in this way to the most ridiculous excess. But what
nation ancient or modern is there with whom the same reproach will not lay? The Greeks?
The Romans? Their historians, Plutarch, Livy, Tacitus, that eminent philosopher So-
crates., have they not all of them paid this tribute to human weakness ? And >vas the
mind of Pascal, among the most masculine that can be cited, entirely free from it ?
BOURGOANNE S lllAVELS IN SPAIN.
i07
voice.
As lor Rucine, has he not given credit to, and related some of the miracles which hap
penedat Port Royal ? It is true, the Spaniards at the present epoch arc more supersti-
tious than the rest of Europe ; although among them there arc man}', uho, in conse-
quence of their different education by travelling, and by making use of their reason, arc
far from sharing in the oblonuy ; nay, even among the clergy 1 have met with numbers,
who possess very clear and just ideas of true religion.
But in those classes in which education is neglected (and such arc numerous) the
members of which have little external communication, and few means of acquiring real
knowledge, superstition and fanaticism are carried to a far greater height than even in
Flanders or Bavaria; for religion every where taking its dye from the character of indi-
viduals, must necessarily have ardent followers, in a natioij remarkable for a lively ima-
gination, and violent passions.
This mixture of strength and weakness produces even at present efllects distressing!}
whimsical. At Madrid there is a church, in which, during passion week, the most fer-
vent among the orthodox assemble in i:n obscure cell. On their entrance, long cords are
distributed to each. They strip thems *lvcs naked to the haunches ; and at a concerted
signal they flog each other with suflicient violence to draw forth streams of blood. The
silence observed during this barbarous ceremony is only interrupted by sighs of repent-
ance, mingled with expressions of pain. The greater part thus make a truce with their
licentious living. Unhappy vvretchcj ! they have none for witness to their voluntary
martyrdom, but God and their conscience, and the next day they lye both to one and
the other. They have resolution suflicient to punish themselves, they have not enough
to reform their life ; so that all this cruel superstition is labour spent in vain.
The capital, in course, dfes not enjoy this privilege exclusively. In some provinces
the sun shines on these scenes, h man of great credibility assures me, that he was once
present in a town of Estremadura, at the following event. He had acquaintance in this
place with a young lady of the mildest manners, of an amiable and lively disposition, a
person adorned with all the charms of her age and her sex. He had gone to sec her on
a good Friday, and found her with a smiling countenance, dressed entirely in white. He
asked her the cause of this extraordinary apparel, on a day set apart for mourning and
penitence. You shall see, was her reply. It was at the very instant '.hat the disciplina-
rians were to pass by the quarter where he stood. She seemed to wait for them with
impatience ; at length they drew nigh. She advances to the window which was on the
ground floor, and open. The penitents halt and begin their exercise. In an instant, her
snowy robe is covered with the blood that spouts from their mangled shoulders. She
seemed to be delighted at the sight of her robe, besprinkled with this rosy shower, and
the motive of her white dress explained itself at once. I will suppose, for an instant,
that gallantry had its part in this mimickry of penitence : that the lover of the young lady
was among the number of the flagellists. Yet, does the scene therefore appear less
whimsically barbarous ?
These are some samples of Spanish devotion ; but it is not in every part of the king-
dom, that it is carried to such an extreme of folly. The enlightened, among the Span-
niards, whose number daily increases, are hurt at seeing it so deeply rooted. Within
these last years, under the reign of the pious Charles III, some salutary reforms have,
been attempted with success.
Even in Madrid, a great number of those processions have been suppressed, called
rosarios, which almost at all hours of the day were passing through the streets to some
church or other, the members of them chaunting unintelligible canticles ; ceremonies
certainly useless in the eyes of true religion, and which were without other consequenop
3 T 2
60b
BOl'UUOANNE V lltAVELU IN SPAIN.
tluui thaiol wearying passjcngcrs, drawing juurncymcn from tlicir occupation, and mo-
rlicrsi from their domtstic aflliirs.
TIk' government resists all attempts at encroachment on the part of the Holy Sec.
The pro|)crty of tiic clergy is no longer looked upon as inviolable.
The misconduct of the monks and interior clergy meets with condemnation, and sc
V ere measures are adopted for repressing it.
It begins to be felt that a diminution of the prodigious number of converts is neces-
sary to the ngeneration of Spain.
Such arc the steps taken by reason in Spain for purifying religion.
On the opposite side (for 1 stand pledged to declare all) the most inviolable respect
is shewn to the meanest ministers of the gospel. They are met with in every house,
and looked upon as an /I'^gis,* under whos<; slulter men are protected from the anger ol
both man and God. When I passed through Valentiu in 1793, at which time a French-
man was held in detestation, some ladies of that nation owed their safety to die interpo-
sition of the priests, who hastened to their relief.
People stand by to let them pass, and give them the wall ; and oftentimes on meet-
ing them, persons of the highest rank respectfully kiss their hands.
If a priest be met with on foot, who should be carrying the viaticum, you arc oblig-
ed to get out of your carriage in order to let him take your place, accom()anying him on
foot to the house of the sick person ; there he is to be waited for ; and when his office
is fmished, he is to be escorted back to the church whence he came. It is only after
this that you obtain repossession of your carriage.
If the holy sacrament be carried any \vherc, a bell is rung to announce it. All busi-
ness then, all conversation is suspended ; and every one fall^on his knees till it pass by.
Hence arises many a burlesque scene. How often have I seen the play interrupted all
at once by the sound of the holy bell ! Spectators, actors, however drest. Moors, Jews,
angels, even devils, all without exception, turn towards the entrance from the street,
fall on one knee, and remain in that posture as long as the sound continues to be
heard.
At the doors of the churches, this singular notice is every day seen affixed. Hoy se
soca animas. This day souls are taken out of purgatory.
Not a coachman who mounts his box, but makes first the sign of the cross, and
mutters some prayers, which are instantly succeeded by some of those energetic phrases
with which he animates his coursers. Frequently, while thus employed without, his mas-
ter within the coach is singing an anthem to the virgin, although very likely on his way
to some profane amusement ; some wits have even informed me, that if on mounting the
jtaircase they should chance to meet a rival friar by the way, they entreat of him ab-
.— - ...: .^ before hand for the sins they are about to commit.
)ect for the cloth is carried so I'ar as to cause the people to attribute to it a pre-
servailve virtue, even after death : in consequence, nodiing is more common than to
[dead buried in the dress of a monk, and be thus carried to their last home, with
:e uncovered, as is the practice in most parts of Spain. The Franciscan habit is
lurite on this occasion ; and the convents belonging to this order have a ware-
ind tailors, especially set apart, for suppl) ing this posthumous wardrobe. So
pmand is there for these dresses, that a stranger, who had been some months at
/ithout being informed of this custom, and observing none but apparent Fran-
|rried to the tomb, expressed his astonishment to me at the prodigious num-
^t order which the city must contain, and seriously a^ked, if I did not conceive
iOUUCOANNE's TRAVELS IN SPAIK.
5oy
Hoy Sf
from the imincnsc number of deaths which occurred ninong thcni, thai ihtir order,
however numerous it mi^hl be, must soon beconie extinct.
The dress of the convent accompanies the Spaniard to the tomb, it is also nearly his
earliest clothing;. It is by no means unuhual to njeet with little monks of four or five
years of age, playing the monkey tricks so common to that age in the streets. Nor is
it uncommon for the parents, whose strange inclination is manifested by the dress they
give them, to turn up the tail of the robe, in order to administer paternal correction to
tliese innocent creatures, who are perhaps tlic only ones of the cloth that arc actually
submitted to discipline.
Certificates of having regularly attended confession, and observed the precepts of the
church during Kaster, are exar.ted from all the faithful, whether subjects of the realm,
or foreigners ; an idle measure in itself, since nothing is more easy than to obtain them
without fulfilling the ceremonial which they testify ; for they are sold the same as any
other article of merchandise, and women of the town (who here have numerous visi-
tors) almost always have a quantity of those certificates for the bearer to sell, which
they obtain at an easy expcnce, of what nature, and who the donors, may readily be
surmised.
One of the most common gestures among the Spaniards of every description, is the
sign of the cross. It particularly serves as a note of admiration accompanied by the
expression of the word Jesus. At every flash of lightning they repeat the symbol of
salvation, and even if they gape, they express it with their thumb upon the mouth ; in
short their every motion is m measure stamped with the mummery of devotion.
If a person enters a house unless he would pass for a heretic, his first exclamation
must be : ave Maria purissima ; to which there is always the response of sin piccado
concebida.
Every year there is pasted on the church gates a catalogue of such books, national
and foreign, as the Holy Oflicc has thought fit to proscribe, under pain of excom-
munication.
Lastly, that tribunal justly enough appreciated by the wiser part of the nation, is yet
in esteem with the greater part. It yet follows the same formidable ceremonial, it yet
has its spies even among the higher ranks, and sometimes its victims, &c. &c.
Let the truth be spoken out however, at the risk of wo\niding that self-love so easily
offended in any nation, and which so generally is satisfied with nothing short of eulogy,
The man does not calumniat(f who speaking of Spain describes it, as in many respects
the country of mummery, fanaticism and superstition. • " '>•-■*►; '•'♦*<?
CHAPTER XL
•»
4;ONTINlTATION OF THE FORTIIAIT OF THE SPANIARDS. THEIR DRAVEAY. REMAINS OF BAR*
BAR18M. THEIll PATIENCE AND SOIIHIKTY. PORTHAITURE UF THEIR WOMEN. THEIR DISSO-
LUTE MANNERS, AND THE CAUSE THEREOF.
We have witnessed the influence of the character and education of the Spaniards of
the present day, on their religious principles, let us now examine the effect they have
on their courage.
The causes of its former active display have, for many years, passed away. The
Moors are no longer their neighbours, whose proximity and difference of faith, ex-
citing continually mutual jealousy and hatred, gave occasion for frequent wars, and
numerous opportunities of nourishing and displaying the national prowess. If the
Spaniard appears no longer liable to the same degree offermentiUion, if he seem asleep,
•1 !*
« ■ i
'>
■r>
*.
510
nOUnCOANNl's IHAVELS IM SPAIN.
he yet may be awakened; the least bignal in fict, recuU him to himstelf. His fits of
holy rage, iiulecd, ore much more rare. Tlie period, ut w hich the name of infidel alone,
wan enough to transport him to fury ; that period, the age of Pizarro and Almagro, is
happily past. Religious intolerance, if it be not entirely corrected in Spain, is nt least
accompanied more by ridiculous than atrocious forms; and uhen they light with Mua-
M'linen, they combat die enemies of their counliy, rather than those ot religion.
They even begin to think that religion may allow of policy to treat as useful neigh-
bours, those whom they have been aeeustonud to look upon us irreconcileable enemies.
In Spain, as well as in other nations, the progress of knou ledge and philosophy, though
it may have been slow, has sensibly softened ihe manners. The traces of ancient bar-
barii} disappear in gradual succession.
Assassination was formerly common in Spain. Kvery man of respectability had his
;issassins at command ; which <vere hirt-d in the kingdom of \'ulentia, as it is pretended
witnesses were not long ago in some of the Fivnch provinces. This dreadful custom
was hi some measure the consequence of the kind of weapon dicn in use. This was a
species of triangular poinard which, concealed imder the cloak, was drawn forth for
vengeance in the moment of resentment. A stroke from it was much more dingerous
than one from a sword, which is used openly, and requires some dexterity. Ti^ i drcad<
ful poinard was more to be feared than the common one known by the name of rejon.
The use of these perfidious weapons is not yet entirely abolished, and furnishes a just
ground for the charges which foreigners bring against the Spaniards.
It is seldom that the manners of a people are corrected by violence and precipitate
means. In the reign of Charles III, the minister, Squiltaci, made the sad experiment,
now about seven-and-ihirty years ago. Drest in a long cloak, and a slouched hat pulled
over the face, a man w ith diflicully would recognize his best friend ; a dress like this in
course favoured excesses, and |)articularly such as endangci ed the safety of the citizen.
In order to abolish the use of them in ISIadrid, he had recourse to coercive means, and
even open force. Satellites posted at tlje corners of streets, i)rovided with shears, pub-
lldy clipped such cloaks as exceeded the length prescribed. He fancied he should find
the Castiiiansus submissive as the Russians in the time of Peter the Great ; he, a stran*
ger, minister of a monarch who had passed the greater part of his life out of Spain !
what was the consequence ? The people mutinied ; the king was frightened, and the mi-
luster was sacrificed. The manner of dress so suddenly attacked, was in part continued
^^ l^r his disgrace ; but milder and slower measures, the example of the court, and those
dbout it, added to the activity of a vigilant police, have considerably contributed to cor*
KCtthe evil, The species of mask, under the name of a hat, which encourages inso-
lence by insuring impunity, is totally laid aside ; and the cloak, very convenient ibr
those who know how to wear it, now favours nothing but idleness.
The use of the poinard still exists in some parts of Spain, especially in the southern
provinces, but it is wholly confined to the lowest rank. Some bravoes make it a bug-
bear to the weak, and with Uie violent and passionate it is the instrument of immediate
vengeance. The clergy have made it j part of their mission of peace and charity to dis-
arm their parisioncrs. The archbishop of Granada, in particular, luis with this view
successfully employed the arguiiKius of the pulpit. But these means have not had
every where the same effect. The kingdom of Valentia, that country so highly favour-
cd by heaven, where the beauty of the climate and the riches of nature should excite none
but the milder passions, is sullied with murder. One of the prerogatives of the crown
consists in pardoning annually one criminal condemned to death, provided his crime
have a shadow of excuse. It has been remarked lately, that for seven successive years
BOUIICoANNE's travels in SPAIN.
511
there has not hecn one criminal who could l)c rtiommcndtd to mcroy tii the fatal li:it
prc'Hcntcd to tin kinp;, w) atrociously pnnu dilated had every crime apiu-artd.
Poinnrdsand usHassinatioiis are also .still eomuion in Aiulaluitia, wncre the powcrrul
in(l icnce of climate, ulun not counter haiancitl hy moral af^ency, appears manifest.
During the summer, a certain tasierly wind (Klrunto dc Medina) causes in that pro-
vince a kind of phrenzy , which renders these excesses more common at that season than
in any other of the ye.r.
But let Spain resume tlu' a|)pearancc which nature prescribes; let roads and canals
tfrosH these districts whiih luive hitherto heen almost inaccessible; let a more easy com-
munication render the vigilance of the agtnts of government more active and certain,
kt the progress of agriculture, industry, ai\d commerce give employment to mischievous
idleness ; m q word, let the present plan of government continue to be executed, and
it will soon appear, in this respect as in others, that the influence «)f climate will yield
to such pow( rful causes.
The revolution in manners, wiiliin the last half ccntur}-, evinces the truth of this pre-
diction. It was not until the present century that two barbarous customs were by de-
grees abolished, which ought long Ix fore to nave been proscribed by reason and huma-
nity. I mean the Rondalla and tlic Pedrcades.
The former of these is a kind of defiance which two bands of musicians give to each
other. Without any other motive than that of shewing their bravcrv, they were wont
to meet with swords and fire-arms, fire at each other, and lhei\ close with swords. Will
it be believed that this custom still exists in Navarre and Arragon ? Atul that a sinjilar
contest was issued in 1792, and a fight took place between two parishes in the suburbs
of Sarragossa.
That of the Pedrcades, has but lately been disused. This was also a kind of combat
between two companies, armed with slings, who attacked each other with stones.
Such manners arc ecpially shameful to those who retain them, and the government
by which they are tolerated. However, as there is scarcely any vicious custom which
has not its causes as well as apparent advantages, there arc certain persons who are
displeased with the abolition of these insiitutions, alledging that though they cannot
be denied to be proofs of ferocity, they arc efpially so of courage, which they contribute
to maintain among the people. The abettors of such paradoxes even regret the revo-
lution, which the work of Cervantes operated in the manners of Spain, by throwing an
indelible ridicule on those adventurers who, neglecting the duties of their station, and
the care of their fartiilies, were used to create themselves dangers in order to enjoy the
vain glory of braving them ; who offered the protection of their restless valour to those
who did not ask it, and whose importunate service was at least useless in a country where
charity ever opens its hand to the wretch d, and where the weak are protected by the
laws.
It is thus that, by successive gradations, more the effect of time than wisdom, the
manners of a people arc reformed and softened. Those of the Spaniards have within
the last century undergone, in other respects, sensible revolutions. Formerly, the point
of honour, on which they were delicate to excess, occasioned frequent duels. Were
proofs wanting, their comedies and novels furnish a sufficient number. At present
their courage, of a more tranquil n.itute, is reserved for manifestation in time of war in
defence of their country, without disturbing its repose during the mild reign of peace.
So much is this the case, that during ten years residence in Sptdn I never once heard of a
real duel.
•1
.— O^
5 Id
MOUIIOOANNi. a lllAViLU IN SPAlK.
On ihc otiicr hand, ihc Spaninrds hnvc prcscrvid their nnciont virliic«(, patience aiul
w)l)ricty; the former rcndcrsj ihcm conitiint in tlair cmcrpriscs, and indtfatigablc iu
thiir l;il)(>tir ; the latter prcservcH thcni from excess, n vice too coinnton in other cout)
tins of ICurope. Without vikin>(, liouever, to diininish their nurif, I must observe
it is, in a prcat nteasure, theeonHe(|uenee of their physical constitution, and the <|uaHty
of their food. Tlieir robust and muscular bodies, dried and hardcfied by tlie active heat
of a buinin|!f climate, are less acted upon l)y lither a spare dietora superabundant meal.
The lUsh of anim;ils, at least in the Alediterranean provinccii of Spain, contains, in a
^ivtn ([uantity, more Mitritive matter duni elsewlierc. Their roots, less Rponp;y than
in eounlries where water contributes more than the sun to tluir growth, are of a mor^r
nomlshinf; substance. Stranj^ers who ^o to live at Madrid soon perceive this, and if
they yitid to the appetite they may have upon ih \v airival, an eiulemial disease, eailcd
Kntiipadi>, a kinil oieholic, w liich 'he physici.ins <>f the country only know lu)W' to lrett(,
painfully inftirnis theni <<f their change of food and climate.
With r(s|)eii to intoxieaiinfi; licpiors, the sobriety of the Spaniard proceeds in n p^reat
measure from nature, which, always employing means proportioned to her cd, has bt-
htowed on him u constitution analaj^ous to the strength of the wines produced by the
soil, whilst .strangers caimoi with impunity drink of them to excess. Of this I have seeri
repiated and striking proofs. Six years a;;o seven or eight servants, wliich the ambas-
sador Monimorin brought from France with him, died miserably. They were accus-
tomed to drink the wines of La Mancha in the same proportion as the light w ines of
France; the consetpience was, they were perpetually in a state of intoxication, and fell
away by inches ; w hile Spaniards who liM d the sante as they, felt no ill effects from their
mode of living. Nothing is more uncommon than to sec a Spaniard ineliriated with
wine, although that whic-h he drinks is more spirituous than trench wines; and if a
drunken soldier be seen in the streets of Madrid, one may safely lay a wager of twenty
to one that it is a foreigner ; and ten to one that it is a Sw iss.
We may remark on this occasion, that sobriety seems to be the inheritance of tlie
inhabitants of the south, as intemperance is that of those of the north. We may also
observe that the people who commit most excesses in drinking are not those whose soil
protluces the liquors by which they are inebriated, as if nature, which has given them
the means of satisfying their thirst and appetite, and adapted their organs to the use of
these means, intended to punish them for seeking, at a distance, the fo: d and liquor she
has created ft»r others. These disj)ositions are undoubtedly deranged by other circum-
stances ; but it is easy for an attentive eye to trace the intentions of nature.
The Spaniards will pardon me for considering their sobriety as a virtue of climate;
this is but comparing them w ith other nations, and even all the individuals of the human
species, who owe alike their qualities to their education, rank in life, habits, the exam-
ples they have before them, and a thousand other causes which depend not on them-
selves. It is still a great merit not to resist beneficial impulses.
The Spaniards have, besides, that of triumphing over influences which dispose men
to certain excesses, and for which they are produced as an apology. I have particularly
in view a depraved propensity, reprobated by nature, injurious to the fair, and too com-
mon among the people of the south. This is absolutely unknown in Spain.
Jealousy, another outrage on the sex, the object of our homage, seems also the con-
sequence of the influence of a climate which communicates its ardour to the senses and
imagination. This odious passion, formerly so injurious in its suspicion, cruel in its pre-
cautions, and implacable and somet lines atrocious in its resentment, is much weakened
noununANvr. u tua^lls in staik.
51*
incc niul
ff.ibic ill
ir coun
(•liscrvc
( <|ii;ility
;tivc heat
ant mcMl.
ins, ill a
f a more
s, and it'
>i', called
to trciK,
n a pjrcat
, ha** !)c-
J by the
lavf been
canibas-
c ace 118-
wiiies of
, uiid fell
om their
itid with
and A a
f tu'eiUy
ce of tlic
may also
hose soil
TU them
>e use of
r|uor she
circum.
climate ;
e human
c exam-
n thcm-
ose men
cicularly
3o com-
the con-
ises and
I its pre-
eakene4
.imon^ the modern Spaniards. If the lover he cxartory, ready to take umbrage, Hiid
tormented by suspiei'iM, on the other hand, there arc no people id Kunjpe uinonK uhon»
is found a smalkr number of jealous liusbaiids. Tlu' women, wIkj uerc formerU
hidden from the nublit , of w lom it was scarcely possible to snatch a ^'i'^p**' throu;(l»
the openings of those latvices, which undoubtedly n\\\: their name to the vile :ii ntiment
which was the cause ot their being invented,* now enjoy full liberty. Their v<ils, the
only remains of their uncient servitude, serveat jiresent but to shelter llifir charms from
u burning sun, and render ihem more attraciiNe. First invented by jealousy, they arc
now employed to very dinVreiit purposes. CNjque'ry has converted them into one of
its most seducing ornaments ; and in favouring secrecy, they insure impunity to the
stolen pleasures of love. Tho lovers who, under the balconies of their invisible mis.
tresses, sighed without hope, uinl had lu thing but their jjuiitar for witness and inter-
pretcr, are banished to comedies and romances. Siege*, arc come Uss slow and difli-
cull «)f termination, husbands more docile, and more accessible the woman. Woman I
who but at the word is sensibly alVected ? Who but is disposed to forgive their caprices,
to submit to t'.eir cruelty, and indulge their weaknesses ? You |)ariicul irly, foreigners,
who have sighed at the feet of a lovely Sj)aniard, wheny ju remember your chains, do
you not feel all these sensations? Shall laltenipi to trace a feeble sketch of the object
of your vows, and call again to menujry your enjoy nicius ? Or, if they have disapi)cared,
from absence, from time, or inconstancy, which anticipates itseflecls, shall I encleavour
to mingle some consolation with the bitterness of your regret ?
The women of every country have particidar charms by w hich they are distinguished
In England, by the elegance of their shape, and modesty of their carriage ; in (iermany,
by their lips of roses and enchanting smile ; and in l' ranee, by that amiable gaiety which
animates all their features. The cliarm felt on approaching a Spanish lady lias some
thing of deception which is not easily defined. Her coquetry is more frank, and leas
studied than that of other women. She takes less pains to be agreeabk to every one.
She rather weighs the suits of her lovers, than counts their number; and her choice
once made, a single one suffices. Or if she doeu not neglect her success, she is never-
theless above all grimace. She owes but little to the aid of the toilet. The com'
plexion of a Spanish beauty is never ornamented with borrowed brilliance : art supplicii
not the colouring which nature has refused by exposing her to the influence of a burn-
ing climate. But how many beauties compensate for her want of colour ? Where are
finer shapes to be met with than with them ? Wliere greater ease of motion, where nicer
delicacy of feature, where a more sweetly tripping gait ? Grave, and rather melancholy,
at first, should one of these beauties cast on you her large black eyes, so full of expres-
sion, should she accompany her glances with a smile — insensibility itself must fall enslav-
ed before her. But if the coldness of his reception discourage not her admirer from ad-
dressing her, she is as decided and mortifying in her disdain, as she is seducing wiiere
she allows of hope.
In the last case she does not make her lover languish long ; but {.erscvcrancc must
survive enjoyment in Spain, and it is not to this country that the description of love, in
a well known idyl is applicable ;
*' Nourished by hope, il dica in midst of bliss."
The fortunate men whom she deigns to conquer, and who are called Cortcjos, are less
dbinterested, but not less assiduous than the cicisbei of Italy. A total sacrifice is re-
.^iT'
VOL. V.
Jaloubic, in the French language, signifies n lattice.
•T U
:i4
BOUncOAWNE 3 lUWEIS IN SPAIN.
ouircd of thcni, Tlicy must {^'pc proofs of this :U all hours of the day, accompanying
their well beloved to the public walk, the tluutres, and even the confessional. Hut many
a storm disturbs their serenity. A momentary distraction is treated as an infidelity.
The slightest ineidciit excites some apprehension. One would say that in Spain jea-
lousy has deserted hymen to take refuge iiv tlie bosom of love ; and that it more par-
ticularly dwells with that of the two sexes \\hich seem the rather calculated to inspire
than feel this cniel passion. In one word, their chains are not so easy to be borne, as
difficult to avoid. The Spanish beauty is rigorous in many respects ; her caprices arc ra-
ther hasty, and too obedient to the impulse of an ardent imagination. But that which is
not easy to conciliate with her eternal varying fancies, is the constancy of Spanish wo-
men in their attachments. The intoxication they cause and experience, far different from
•ill extreme agitations or affections of the mind, which continue but a short tinjc, is
prolonged greatly beyond the common term; and I saw during my residence in Spain,
more than one such passion continue constauc till the parties expired of age. May not
this be accounted for by a religious scruple, certainly ill understood, as most such scru-
ples are ? May not the conscience of a Spanish lady snfliciently com|>laisant to permit
her one gratification which offends her duty, be terrified at a succession of infidelities?
In the first may she not possibly find an excuse for her conduct in human infirmity, in
the irresistible wish of the heart, which inclined her towards one object, destined by na-
ture to fix her affections V Would sin resume its ugliness at a successive infidelity ?
It belongs to those who are accjuainted with the female heart and conscience to judge
of this conjecture. It is certain, that in Spain, more than any other country, both
men and women appear to conciliate the irregularity of manners with the most scrupu-
lous observance of religious duties. In many countries these excesses alternately succeed
each other. In Spain they are simultaneous ; and the women, in consequence of this
strange mixture of religion and frailty, seem to aim less to prevent scandal, or cojiceal
their conduct, than to establish a kind of equilibrium between their faults and their
merits.
How many men have I known, who have led an extreme disorderly life, yet frc-
(juented publ; v worship with an assiduity, which even true christians do not consider as
an indispensible duty, who carefully observed every injunction of the church relative to
abstinence, rendering its ministers at the same time almost degrading homage !
How many women abandoned to an attachment utterly ijiconsistent with their duty,
surround themselves w ith relics, and bind themselves by vows to the perl'ormance of
actions indifferent in their own nature, and scrupulously fulfil them.
I believe hypocrites to be very rare in Spain ; but to compensate for this, the ridicu-
lous association of certain moral improprieties with superstitious practices is more com-
mon there than elsewhere. Is this to be attributed to a want of knowledge, or the
criminal complaisance of the confessors, who are thus prodigal of the indulgence of
which they themselves stand in need? Or is it the climate which must serve as an ex-
cuse for some vices, as it is the cause of some virtue ? And decs this climate enforce
die gratification of certain frailties too imperiously for consciences, scrupulous in other
respects, to be terrified at comi)liance ?
To endeavour to explain the dissoluteness of morals, is to acknowledge its existence.
Yes, depravity of this description is carried to great lengths in Spain. Frequently does
the sex destined by nature to wait for pleasure, invite to enjoyment with effrontery. It
is not in this country unusual to receive written intimations of desires which one has un-
wittingly engendered ; neither is this licentiousness restrained by the dreadful conse-
quences that succeed it. Tliat horrible present which the new world has made to the
BouncoAMNi: y iuavelg in stain.
Hj
But many
iiifKlclity.
Spai'i jea-
morc par-
to inspire
'. borne, as
ices are ra-
t which is
xinish \vo-
crcnt IVoni
It time, is
in Sjjain,
May not
siichscru-
to permit
ifidelities ?
firmity, in
ned bv na-
[Iclity'?
:e to judge
ntry, both
St scrupu-
ly succeed
ice of this
or conceal
and their
c, vet frc-
lonsidcr as
relative to
^p f
' '.
their duty,
rmance of
he ridicu-
nore com-
g;e, or the
ilgence of
: as an ex-
ite enforce
IS in other
existence.
ently does
►ntery. It
ne has un-
iijl conse-
ide to the
old, in Spain, has l)CCome hereditary in families, and by the dc|i;cncracy ol niany of those
races which are termed illustrious, and the extinction of others, a fatal evidence is af
lorded of its baneful influence. This scourge, to which the nation sceuis to have become
■tccustomed, is of the most alarming nature, win n it affects a person I)orn under a differ-
ent climate : and if die thousand charms, in the beauties, whose allructions I take delifjh'
in celebrating, draw some irresistibly into their sphere, the dreadful apprehensions wit!\
which a foreigner must be inspired, who by experience or report becomes iic(|uaintcd
with his danger, may reasonably justify the prudence v. hieh some have the power of ex
ercising, and excuse an escape from llu:irsway.
This depravity, however, is far li(jm being so general as exaggerating libertines arr
|)leased to aflirm ; even in Madrid there are families v/liose conduct is exemplary, faith
I'ul husbands, and uives who arc models of modesty and propriety ; their daughters,
akhough in general not reserved in their carriage, grant less than fancy is pleased to ex-
pect from their demeanor, for nothing is more rare than tlieir antii ipation of the rights of
matrimony. If opportunities of purchasing pleasures, e(jually shameful and easy toob
tain, are frequent for those who seek them, at least i)rostitution is neitiier so public nor
impudent as in other countries. The police, by severely prohibiting its scandalous
seminaries", obliges it to conceal itself, and sometimes pursues it to its secret retreats.
And what is singular in a country where dissolute conduct is otiicrwise so common, in
a country \vhich contains so many rich idlers, one would in vain seek for those easy la-
dies, who unblushingly display in other countries the sumptuous salary of their lubricity.
Among these great people, who in other respects make a trophy of the corruption which
their opulence keeps in pay, a sort of shame presides in the midst of their irregularities,
and mystery embellishes even their most disgraceful amours.
The severe virtue of the kings of the new dynasty can alone explain this modern sin-
gularity. At their court, there has always been an absolute necessity of concealing
those weaknesses, which tliey did not excuse by their example : to incur suspicion only,
would be acting with great imprudence : to make a show of them would be the height
of temerity. Charles III, in this respect was rigid, even to tyrmny. I was present once,
while one of the most eminent persons of his court denounced his own son, who had
been seduced by the charms of a pretty actress ; and requested his majesty to have the
lover confined in a castle, and his mistress in a house of correction ; but it is not every
young nobleman of the court of Spain who has so strict a father, nor does every actress
thus expiate the passions she engenders.
To the honour of the fair sex of Spain, I shall farther observe, that women rigorously
banish from their society those familiarities, which arc considered as indifferent by other
nations, where the senses, less quickly inflamed, betray less suddenly their disorder ; and
that this distrust of themselves is at least an homage which their weakness renders to
modesty. Thus a womaa would not permit the most chaste kiss to be given h^r in pub-
lic ; and those which are customary in our comedies, and of which no notice is taken, are
entirely banished from the Spanish stage.*
* I remarked some years ago, at one of the theatres of Madrul, a nunute tridt, obnoxiously trivial,
;»nd which, but for its cxeniplifyinjj this excessive delicacy, so whimsicully allied to the i^rosscst and
most disgusting manners, I should scarcely venture to d( tail in a note. No traveller, who has passed
through Spain, particularly Castile, can fail having observed groups of people, who, basking in the
sun, amuse themselves in their laziness, by destroying the vermin with which their heads abound.
Among lovers of this rank, the favoxired youth, whose mistress deigns to benefit hini in this manner,
l)as a double pleasure on the occasion, not only does he get rid of troublesome companions, he, at
the same time, receives a testimonial of the perfect devotion of the object of his views. It is
accessary thus much should premise my anecdote. The little French opera of Lc Tonnelier,
;»; ■■ 3 u 2 • .
(;,
' H
J 10
aoi;ii(;o.\.\'.\E'a iit.AVELs in stain.
But if a proper distance he kept they allow, ami even provoke at times, those vvarito;i
tricks at whicli decency would clscu here be alarmed. Double meanings however gross,
the coarsest jokes, even downright oliscenity, \>iiatever the tongue can express is readily
overlooked. I have seen ladies admit of, nay even thcn»selves make, observations
which men « iih the least regard to decorum would deeni r.dmissible only at orgies, and
sing catches revoltingly indecent. ^Vhen in what is termed good company, I have more
than once been surprised with tales of rather more than a free description. I have heard
some ladies unblushingly, and u iihout taking the smallest pains to varnish their story,
relate the secret detail of their amorous meetings, and apjiear astonished if perchance thcj
should see the least embarrassment in the countenance of any of their auditors.
These delineaments, which I shall not be so unjust as to lay to the charge of all the
.Si)anish fair, would not howevt ' alone prove the depravity of manners in Spain. Wo-
men, who permit themselves freedom of expression, and give the example of it, are cer
tainly not on that account more seducing to persons of delicacy, but they are not more
easily seduced. On the contrary, a nation not yet entirely civilized, may have in its Ian-
guage a kind of ingenuousness which renders expressions far from being entirely chaste ;
and I should be inclined to think that these modes of expression, shocking to the decen-
cy of other nations, would disappear were a more refined civilization, more precautions
in the education of young persons, almost exclusively abandoned to the government of
servaiUs, even in the most distinguished houses, and especially were a better example,
adopted. But can a young lady, who from the most tender age has been familiarized to
the grossest expressions, who in companies, to which she is frequently admitted, hears
applause bestowed on impudence, which disdains to throw a transparent veil over the
obscenities in \vhich it indulges; can one whose ears are early accustomed to the inde-
cent expressions which are permitted on the stage, and whose eyes repeatedly behold the
wanton attitudes exhibited in the favourite Spanish dance, long preserve in her imagi-
nation and language that virgin purity which is, perhaps, the greatest charm of her sex ?
Mothers of families, with what have ye not to reproach yourselves, who given up to
your passions, abandon your daughters to nature and chance. Future mothers, how ill
do ye conceive your interest ! A taste for employment, some care bestowed on the de-
velopement of that disposition of which heaven has been prodigal to you, would make
you rank among the happiest as well as the most enchanting works of creation ! Alas !
you are neglected, you are left to yourselves, and your corrupt attendants. You are, to
our misfortime and despair, about to falsify the munificent intention of nature.
The character and manners of a nation can be known, but imperfectly, if regarded in
their serious occupancy alone, or while under the dominion of the passions. It is much
better seen m their entertainments, their games, and their fancies. Let us then view the
Spaniards in these different relations.
(the Cooper) being translated into Spanish, the scrupulous translator dared not hazard the furtive
kiss, which forms its denouement. But what does lie substitute ? In the last scene, while the mas-
ter cooper is occupied in the interior ofhis workshop, the journeyman enters by stealth, and sets him-
self on the gxpund, between the legs of the lovely Fanchette, whose delicate fingers are employed in
lousing his fortunate rival. They are in this situation when the jealous old man comes, and detects
the two lovers in the act of giving and receiving this unequivocal pledge of mutual affection-
i' :
■ I
2 wantoii
cr gross,
is readily
crvatiou!^
i;ics, and
ave more
ivc heard
:ir story,
incc tlic\
Dfall the
1. Wo-
, are ccr
lot more
n itslan-
y chaste ;
lie dccen-
[^cautions
nnicnt of
example,
iarized to
ed, hears
over the
the indc-
ehold the
?r imagi-
her sex ?
/en up to
s, how ill
n the de-
ild make
! Alas !
3U are, to
yarded in
tis much
view the
the furtive
le the mas-
[1 sets hirn-
mploycd in
mil detects
on.
.^.o-*
AUG 13 18 W
l\
I. .i
!;i
tl O U It r, 0 A N N 1, G r U A V L L S IN M' M V .
j'lV
CnAPTI'.U XII.
MANhl^HH AND CtblOMh OF STAIN. TIIEtll DANCKS. (lAMIS. rLEASVIlKS. UKPA8TS. JASTK.
NOTHING more contrasts with tin- luctciulcd i^Tiivity of the Spiiiiiards, than their
ftivourite dance the i'andango; a dance, truly national, and lull ol'exprtshion, at which
foreigners of delicacy at first take exception, hut uliich they themselves become delight-
ed with at last.
No sooner does the tunc begin for the fandango, than every countenance becomes
animated, and even those among the spectators, wlio by their age and profession arc
most obliged to gravity, have much difliculty in preventing themselves from joining in
the cadence. It is related, and tlic apologue is certainly appropriate, that the court of
Rome, scandalized that a country renowned for the purity of its faith, should not have
long before proscribed this profane dance, resolved to pronounce its formal condemna-
tion. A consistory was assembled, the prosecution of the fandango was begun, accord-
judges was not proof against the exhibition ; their austere countenances began by de-
grees to relax ; they rose from their seats, and their arms and legs soon found their former
suppleness. The consistory hall was changed into a dancing room, and the Hmdango
was acquitted.
After such a triumph, it may be imagined that the remonstrances of decency have but
little effect ; its empire seems to be firmly established. It is, however, different accord-
ing to the places in which it is practised. It is frequently called for at the theatre, and
generally closes private d"nces. In these cases, the intention is no more than lightly in-
dicated ; but, on other occasions, when a few persons assembled together shake off all
scruples, the meaning is then so marked, that voluptuousness assails the mind at every
avenue; its incitements cause the heart of the modest youth to palpitate with desire, and
re-aiiimate the deadened sense of age. The fondango is danced by two persons only,
who never touch, even the hand of each other ; but when we view their mutually enga-
ging allurements, their advances and retreats; when we observe the female in the mo-
ment of her languor, announce an approaching defeat, and suddenly acquiring new cou-
rage escape from her conqueror, who pursues her, and is afterwards pursued in his turn ;
the manner in which these emotions are expressed by their looks, gestures and attitudes ;
it is impossible not to confess with a blush, that these scenes are to the real combats of
the Paphean queen, what our military evolutions in peace are to the real display of the
art of war.
They have in Spain, a dance yet more voluptuous than the fandango, but it belongs
rather to the provinces than the capital. It is the volero. Andalusia in particular ap-
pears to be its natural country ; as it apparently was invented for the Andalusians of both
sexes, a remnant of decency has banished it almost generally from private balls ; it is how-
ever given on the stage.*
• A German traveller, who has lately published a little work on Spain, in which he modestly pre-
tends to have only gleaned after mc; and in which there are many beautiful pictures, very highly co-
loured, but with rather too much sameness. Mr. Fischer thus describes the Volero :
«' The play finishes ; the scene changes to an elegant saloon. The orchestra strikes up : the sound
of castanets is heard, and from opposite sides of th« theatre a male and female dancer dart forward,
-^»-^"
M3
i "l
il8
0OUR(;OAN .N£ S lUA\i.LU IN til'AlN.
A ih'nil diincc pcciiliar to the Spaniards is tl»( Sr};ijiililla. The figure is formed by
ci};ht pcrson!> ; at inch conur the lour couple trace, aUhoup;h but en passant the princi-
pal muveinents of the landan^^u. A Spanish lennlo danciny; the Sejiruidilla, dressed in
character, accompanying the instruments uith castanets, and markinj^thc measure with
her heel with unconmion precision, is certainly one of the most seducing objects which
love can employ to extend his empire.
Tile Spanish nation has a decided taste I'or dancinjr, and private balls arc very fre-
quent. They have a sort or[)resident called b.istonero whose duty it is to see that good
order rei.niis in the midst ol' pleasure. It is his provir.ce particularly to take care that
each ol' the pari} figures in a minuet, and toii\ partners in such a manner as to make as
many luippy as possible, and as few as can be axoided wretched.
As to public balls and masfjuerades, in the reign of I'hihp V, they were forbidden
throughou'. all Spain. The count de Aranda, who, while attentive to the police of the
capital, did not neglect its pleasures, revived them; but these two aumscincnts did not
outlive the retreat of the minister.
'I'hc conunon peoj)le have some particular games, which have a tinge of the gravity
of the nation. The one, a weak and miserable image of those which kept the force and
activity of the ancients in constant exercise. It consists in throwing a bar of iron to a
certain distance, and hence is called Kl juego de la barra.
Another game, a favourite with the vulgar, but still more insipid, is common to Italy
as well as Spain. A number of men are seated round in a circle, and hold up in their
turn t\xo, four, six or ten fmgers, rapidly naming aloud the exact number of fingers
held up.
Genteel persons have recreations of another kind. In those assemblies, where idle-
ness collects parties together, their principal amusement consists in card playing, hom-
bre is on these occasions their lavouritc game ; this game is of Spanish origin, as its
name announces, hombrc signifying man, but the Spaniards call it trissilio; besides at
cards, they amuse themselves with a sort of game at biliards, called jueyo detruecos.
In general they seldom assemble to eat at each others houses. They are little ac-
quainted with the iimocent and healthiul pleasures of the country. But few among
them even arc fond of the chace ; of \\hich the monarch .nd his family seem to pos-
sess the exclusive privilege. The amusements of the country appear to have no attrac-
bolh dressed in ihc Andulusian costume, appropriate to tijc dance. At their entrance, they fly towards,
us if they mutually souj^ht, each oilier. The niali: dancer, sireichcs out his anxious arms towards the
female, who seems as lliuugli about lo abandon herself to his embrace ; but, all at once she turns and
avoids him. He, made angry, shuns her in return. The music ceases, they both appear irresolute,
but the orchestra beginning, again sets them ii\ motion.
"The male then expresses his desire with increased vivacity. The female seems more inclined
to answer it. A voluptuous languor is depicted in her eyes, her bosom heaves more violently, Her
arms are extended towards the ol^jecl whicii pursues her: but a fresh return of sadness robs him of
her a second time ; a second pause re-unimates them bolb.
"The orchestra again plays up, the music increases the quickness of its measure, and assumes
wings to overtake the velocity of their niotioiis. Full of desire, the male rushci towards the female;
their lips are half opened; she is again feebly restrained by a vestige of modesty. The crush ofmu-
bic redouljles, and with it, the liveliness of their movements, a sort of vestigo, a delirium of extacy,
seems to possess them both: every muscle appears lo invite and express enjoyment; their eye-sight
fails. At once the music ceases, and the dancers vanish (if I may use the expression) in deliciou»
hmguishment, the curtiiin falls, and the spectators recover their senses."
Such an animated description is more like an apology than a satire. It, however, is not wanting of
exactitude. Sme years back the volero was given at Paris; but decency had shaded its tints, and
pleasure itself did not require they should be mailc more lively. .,..,..•.
BtjlUf;0.\NWE
1 WA\ £T.U IN r.pAiy.
61i>
tions for the Spaniards. Their co'intrv-houscs might easily be mimbcral. Amonj;
the many rich iiidivitltcvis who inhabit the capital, there are, perhaps, not ten who have
a country retreat. Willi respect to the castles, seats, he. so numerous in France, Eng-
land, and Italy, and which tontrihute to the embellishment of die environs of their
capitals, there arc so few in the vicmage of Madrid and the rest of the Peninsula, that
many travellers are of opinion the proverbial expression, buildinj; castles in Spain, is
thence derived. This however is evidently an erroneous opinion from the number of
castles in ruins found in most of the provinces.
The rich subjects of tlu; kini^dom therefore concentrate all their pleasures within the
cities. Music is one of those lor which the Spaniards have the greatest taste. They
cultivate this art with success; not that their national music has made any great pro-
gress, for it has a particular character ; it is to be found mostly in little detached airs,
called, in Spain Tonadillas and Seguidillas ; sometimes agreeable melodies, but of which
the modulations are liule varied, and proved that the art of composition is still in its in-
fancy. In return for this they do the greatest justice to the grand compositions of Ger-
many and Italy, whi< li always form a part of their frequent concerts. They have many
lovers of harmony, but few composers worthy of notice.
A young poet at Madrid, Don Thomas Yriarte, who died in the prime of life, pro-
duced a few years since a poem on music, wherein didactic dryness is compensated by
several espisodes imd briHiimcy of imagination. Coinioisseurs assure us that the cha-
racter of Spanish music in particular is there given by a masterly hand.
Balla and concerts are not the only entertainments at which the Spaniards assemble.
They have also their Tertuliasand Refrescos. The Tertulias are assemblies very simi-
lar to those of France. Perhaps more liberty reigns in the former, but langour some-
times establishes its throne there as well as ia the midst of our parties.
Women in general seldom seek occasions to meet together ; each aspires to be the
centre of a Tertulia; and exclusive pretensions undoubtedly contribute to banish from
Spanish societies what we call French gallantry. Women are there admired, and even
adored, as well as elsewhere ; but when they fail of inspiring a lively sentiment, the
men seldom pay them those attentions which our politeness prodigally and indiscrimi-
nately bestows upon every individual of the amiable sex. Not but the Spaniard pos-
sesses gallantry. Its subtile lineaments are strewed with prolusion throughout the ro-
mances of the country, and in their comedies ; but to a foreigner's eye it appears bur-
lesquedby exaggeration ; it has not those easy terms, the elegant expressions which is
granted to bt possessed by the French, given Ijy those nations who are jealous of them.
With them a pretty woman, who is not the object of a man's affection, is only a lovely
creature, who expects, but does not exact, homage ; and when paid her, the courtesan
is thanked with a smile. Among the Spaniards where she can manage to make herself
respected, she is a divinity who must be worshipped. A sonnet or vaudeville is suffi-
cient for one. The other must be addressed in the sublime accents and cadence of the
ode.
Their Refrescos, the invention of luxury and greediness, contribute no less than the
Turtulias to facilitate the intercourse of the two sexes. In general, these are only light
repasts, prepared lor persons from whom visits are received, and arc as a prelude to
the Tertulias ; but on great occasions, when a wedding, christening, or the birth day
of the head of a family is to be celebrated, the Refresco becomes an important and
a very expensive affiiir. All the family acquaintance are invited ; and, in proportion as
they arrive, the men separate from the women. The latter take their seats in a parti-
cular chamber, and etiquette requires they should remain alone until all the company be
hi
* r
i1
I
520
BOURCOANNE S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
asy.emhltd, or ut least until the men stand up without np|)roachinf5 tlicm. The Indy of
the house wails lor them uiuler n canopy, in u place set apart in the hall, which, not
ytt entirely abolished, was lornuriy calkd the Kstrado, over uhieh in commoidy sjus-
j)ended an inia^c ol" the virgin. The appearance of refreshments, at Itnf^tn, en-
livens every countenance, and infuses joy into every heart; conversation bccon-cs uni«
mated, and the sexes approach each other. The ccmpany are first presented with great
glasses of water, in which little sugar loaves, called Azucaresponjiido, or rosado, square
and of u very spongy substance, arc dissolv ed ; these arc succeeded b) chocolate, the fa-
vourite refreshment twice a day of the Spaniards, and whi<'h is believed to be so nourish-
ing, or at least innocent, that it is not refused to persons dani;eronsly ill. After the
chocolate (ome confectionary of all sorts, and all colours. IVople are not only cloyed
with them in the house of festivity, but they put quantities of thenj into paper, and
even into their hats and handkerchiefs. And a stranger admitted tur liio first time, to
these kinds of fcstiviils, in VNhieh intoxicating liquors only arc spared, seeks to discover
the sober nation and finds it not.
A I):ill or card tables commonly succeed the Uefresct, ut it very seldom happens
that the entertainment is concluded with a supper. This ib always a very frugal repast
with the Spaniards, and at which they rarely assemble.
Their cookery, such as they received it from their ancestors, is of a nature to please
but very fe\v people. They are fond of high seasonings ; jicppcr, jiimenta, tomutcs,
or saflVon, colour or season most of their dishes. One of iIk ni only has been intro-
duced amongst strangers, and the French kitchen has not disdained ttKidoptit; this is
wbatin Spain is called Olla-podrida, and is a sort of hotch polch of ev*.ry kind of meat
oooked together. There is, however, generally a mixture in the Spanish cookery, ex-
cept in some obscure families, attached to ancient customs ; in most houses it participates
of the I'rench cookery, and in some this has wholl} supplanttd that ol Spain.
Thus are the French every where imitated, whilst they arc ridicided, and sometimes
detested. The modes of France have reached Spain as well as many other countries
French cloths, fashions and colours, are worn under the Spanish eloak. The veil is
no longer worn for- concealment but by the women of the lowest classes; for others it
serves but to hide the disorder of their dress Nvhcn they go out on foot. Except in
this case, their head dress itnd whole attire arc carefully adjusted to the French fashion.
The Spanish manufacturtrs exert themselves to the utmost to serve the reigning taste,
and to follow it through all its ra])id variations, without the aid of our manufacturers ;
but they are yet far from being able to attain their end. Great cities, and even the
court, tacitly acknowledge this by having immediate recourse to Paris or Lyons, as to
the onlv' true sources of fashions. In this respect, as in many others, the Spaniards
who affect the bon ton confess the superiority of some foreign nations, and receive from
them lessons of elegance. Their tables are served after the French manner ; they have
French cooks, house stewards, and valets de chambre> French milliners are employed
to invent and make new dresses for the ladies. Their heavy inelegant equipages disap-
pear by degrees, and are exchanged for those of England, or their French neighbours,
which, however, latterly are imitated by the coach makers of Madrid and elsewhere.
They neglect no means of engaging French artists and manufacturers to settle in Spain.
This homage is not confined merely to frivolous objects. The best French and
Eiiglish works on morality, philosophy, and history are translated into the Spanish lan-
guage. French literary works of mere amusement are for the most part those only,
which have but httle merit in the eyes of the Spaniards ; and theur taste, in this respect
still appears far from inclining to change. ,. ., ,
not'Ki i; \ssi.
r It A V h f. 'i IN SPAIN.
521
l>c Indy ol"
hicli, not
loiily sus-
iigth, en.
on.cs ani*
vilh great
lo, square
tte, the fu-
> nourish*
After the
\y cloyed
iper, and
t time, to
) discover
I happens
gal repast
to please
tomatcii,
:en intro-
t ; thia is
d of meat
kery, ex-
rticipatcs
•nictimes
ouniries
ic veil is
others it
xcept in
fashion,
ng taste,
icturers ;
ven the
ns, as to
paniards
ive from
»ey have
nployed
;s disap.
fhbours,
iewhere.
1 Spain,
nch and
ush lan-
se only,
respect
I'licir im.i}^iiiali()ii, Ijnldt'U'xtravaj^aiitf, TiikK I'nurh idi-ascold and timid. Arcu:.
loined to exaggeration aiidridiiiubiK e, th'y are iiiiahic propirly to value either justness
or precision. The liiu.' sividi.s of rrcncli ridicnK; and inaiiiv rs es'.'a|)c their e}es, too
much actustoincd to cariiature ; and with rc-.pnrt t<)si}li', tJKiioar, vitiittd by tlv.*
pompous prosody of thtir eadiiici'd peri'Kh, hy tlu iVtrpieiit :md aflccled n petition ol
their sonorous uords, can liiid no grace in accents which speak n\ort' to th'; mind than
the senses; and the roundness of elegant periods is to tluni <niirily lost.
What chiefly prevents a reloriu in liieir literature, are the mulels uliich they still
admire and endeavour to imitate; these are disliiigiiislKd In thit liad taste which for-
merly infected all the nalions of I'.urope, ami to w iiieh the lirst literary men in France
have paiti an ample triljute, l)ut on the wreck of which the master-piects of the ago of
Louis Xl\', h.ixe been erected.
Had FreiK h literature remained in the state it was when Uoiisart, Marot, Henserade.
Voiture and Balzac u rote, tlu ir very dt fects would still serve as models. What might
have happened in France, had no impnivement been there nj.ide in letters by a concur-
rence of eireumstancts, has happened to the Spaniards. Since the time of Calduoii,
Lopes de Vef-'a, Quevedo, U' bolkdo, and others, whose imaginations, though wild and
licentious, wtre brillinnt and fertile, no author with these splendid (pialities, and at the
same time endowed wiih that good sense which dir«.els their use, has appeared in Spain.
liCtters have, for upwards of a century, been in the same state. The works of thcsy
men of genius, frccpiently txtravag-ant even to absurdity in their conceptions, still coti-
tinue models of style; and their example, uithoui having produced any thing com-
parable with that which in them is justly admired, has served, and still continues to
serve, as an excuse to every repreht iisible inej^ularily of imagiiuuion, and all the violent
bombast of false elocjucnce.
It is to the Spanish stage that this reproach particularly applies.
CHAPTKK Xlir.
or THK AI'ANIHII HTAGF.. Ot TIIK.in ri.AVS, HOTIl ANl'IKMT AND MlU>l'.IlV. UKKKNCK UK IHK
SPANISH blAOK AVIl CHITIHUK UN TIIK FllKNCIi. BPAMSIf V KUitlCIC A llOr^. AC rOHS. LITTLK
MODF.HN i'lKCES. MAJOS, A\U OI'l'ANUii.
IT would, however, be unjust to judge of the Spanish theatre according to the cri-
tique of Boilcau.
It undoubtedly still suffers pieces, in which die law of die three unities is flagrantly
violated. But there are many Spanish pieces, in which it is not transgressed in such a
maimer as to be prejudicial to the interest. The Spaniards thcinsi Ives condemn most
of their heroic comedies, in which princes and princesses, from all corners of Europe,
assemble without motive, as well as without probability, and are by turns either actors
or the sportof the most incredulous adventures, relate, converse, and joke even in the
most critical situations, and conclude by uselessly shedding their blood without giving
occasion to a single tear. Although several of these pieces Iku e orig'-nal beauties, and
all afford proof of the talent of the Spaniard for inventing complicated plots and dex-
terously weaving the denouement, the Spaniards found not the much contested reputa-
tion of their theatre upon this alone.
But there are some of their productions which they justly consider as entitled to the
admiration even of strangers. These are their characteristic pieces, which, though not
so well conduct^ as the best French pieces of the same kind, and though they cannot
boast the same accuracy in the choice of ideas and expressions, arc generally pleasing
VOL. V. 3 X
-^<^
mad
52a
lOURCOANVl's TRAVELS IN ir.XtN.
In the ground work, niitliful in most of the characters, nnd »hc\v nn uncomnioii kr
lilitv of imii[;inntioti u\ their authors.
The |)ic<is which the Spaniards call dc Capa y Kspada, nrc those particularly which
prtvnl ail exact reprcvntaliou of ancient n»aiinerM, and these conn dies aa* the real
fiourecd to be resorted to in the Htudy of them. It in in these pieces that the generosity
l)y which their manners are still characterised, those flif!:hts nf patriotisnt and religious
zeal, which formerly rendered the Spaniards capable ol the greatest eftorts ; the sal-
lies of national pride, which the pomp of style renders so nohie ; that irritaljility with
resiKCt to the delic.nte Huhjectf> of love and honour, which made dueh so Irecpient in
Spain, before the causes which softetied the manners of Kurope had gained suf]iciet\t
influence over the modern Spaniards ; the sacrifices and ardour of hopefid lovi-, the
anguish of unhappy love, and the stratagems of thwarted passion are traced in the most
lively colours, auch are the outlines of these couRdies, of w hich the Spaniards arc m
fond as they were at the time they first appeared.
Their authors of uhfjm Lopes de Vega, Hoxas, Solis Morcto, Aallano, and narticu.
larly the immortal Calderon de In Barca arc the most celebrated, have so establisncd this
kind of comedy by their success, that more modern authors, such as Zumora and Ca-
nizarics, who wrot( at the beginning of this century, dare not attempt any other.
The Spanish theatre has nevertheless experienced some happy changes latterly : and
ultliough real tragedy, unmixed with matter unworthy of its noble nature, has long
been entirely unknown among ihem ; within this little time they have represented some
of th<; best French pieces literally translated ; such as Andromache, and Zara ; and
some modern authors have even ventured on tragedy ; Don Vincent dc Hucrta, who is
lately dead, wrote a piece called Rachel. The serious drama has likewise made its ap-
pearance on the Spanish stage, and the Deserter, and Kugenia from the French, have
i)een favourabl}- received, as well they arc no longer strangers to what is termed noble
comedy by the French ; for example they have represented the Misanthrope, from Mo-
liere, which met with great applause. Some authors of the country have recently
hazarded pieces of this description. Don Thomas Yriarte has given the public El Scno-
rito mimado (the spoiled child) and La Scnorita mal eriada ^the ill instructed Miss);
Moratin, a young poet, who does honour to the literature of Spain, and who by order
of the court travelled through tlie country for some years, in order to gather subjects
from life, with which to ornament and relbrm the stage ; Moratin has also written a piece
in this style called. Kl viejo y la nina (Miss in her Teens and the Septagenerary) which
was performed with great success at Madrid, and earned its author a considerable pen-
sion, a circumstance of which there have been but few examples in the world, and which
excited considerable jealousy in many, but astonishment in every body. Coinella, ano-
ther young poet has also produced several agreeable pieces, one among others, the bent
of which (for the genus irritabile vatum belongs to all countries) was to ridicule his
cotemporary.
But these successful essays have been insufficient to root out that bad taste which has
been long combated not only by the greater part of their literary characters but as well
by those Spaniards unacquainted with any other theatre than their own. Will it how-
ever be believed that there are some among tiiem, who not only defend with warmth the
Spanish stage, but rebut with usury the blame which all Europe is agreed in laying on
them.
In 1749 Don Bias Nasure, the king's librarian, reprinting the comedies of Cervantes,
thus expresses himself at the head of the work : " We may very safely affirm without
rendering ourselves liable to that charge which is made against our nation of prizing it-
liOlMtr.OANNL
I 11 .W £ (, ^ IN U I' A I N .
S2.
unoii icr
riy wlilch
V the aal
fincrosity
rilil^ious
the s;il-
ility with
i-(|ticiit ill
Miillicicnt
love, the
1 the mo-jt
rd'i arc an
i\ i)articu<
islicd this
I and Cd'
thcr.
-rly : and
has long
Ucd sonrje
luru ; and
i\, who is
dc its ap-
ich, have
ltd noble
rom Mo-
recently
El Scno'.
d Miss);
by order
subjects
en a piece
y) which
able pen-
nd which
cUa, ano-
the bent
icule his
vhich has
t as well
II it how-
irmth the
aying on
ervantes,
without
rtzing it-
itclf highly wiiile it tliinks too meanly of otli»ri, that wc have u Far p;i'cul< r inunberof playh,
ucrfcct in thcm'iclvcs, and written acoordin}{tu rule, than what lh<: I^n^iith, I'lcnch, and
Italian, colketivtly, can boast."
Much mf)re Kccnily, that it, in IT'.M, I)<»n Paschal Rodri(|iier. dc Arellano proposed
a work to be pnbliHh(.d by subbcrinlion, onlitUd, Teatro antij^uo I'.snanolarrr|r|adoa loi
mas piincipaU's [ireceptos del arteuramalica, in which ho prouiisis diver .tlramas, or co
medicH, written by Calderon, Lopes de \'i^;a, Solis, Moreto, Itoxas, Hoi:, and Tyrso,
in which the three uniiies are observed, the style free from hyperbole and aff.ctalion,
Irom vain subtleties, from the huterop^cnotiH inixtiuv of lunjt s and clowns, from ine
([uality of the persoiu'.fjfcs, anil from iiideccnt episodis and ([uoliljels. lie lIiusprojKjscd
to make nn am|)le apolo^v Ibr the nation as to this branch of literature, at the same,
time preserving in these pieces, in spite of so many suppnssicns and corrections, all tht.
force, beauty of expression, and ^^lace of the orij^inals. Let Sp.nish critics decide, if h<
has kept his promise.
Uut what will ajipear more snrpri/inj^ to readers conversant in French literature, u
Spaniard of the present time, at least who is very lately deail, a I'ellow of the Acadenu
of the Spanish language. La Iluerta, expresses himself in this manner on the dramatic
genius and poetry of the French, in his pieliminarv discourse on the Spanish theatre ;
*• A sinjjlc spark from the brilliant fire visible in this tlivinc poem. La Pharsuliu, would
be sufficient to give warmth and life to the weak and palsied muses of France, wilhouf.
excepting the Limousins, who placed nearer to Spain, received perhaps, on that account.
in a slight degree, the inlluencc of die cnUmsiasmand poetic talent characteristic of our
nation.
••How is it possible" he adds *' that Uiis divine fire should animate the minds ol'
men, born and educated in marshy countries, destitute of sulphur, suits, and substance ,
countries in short so little favoured by the sun, that their fruits scarcely ripen, iiotwith
standing the artificial means they use to exi)obe them to its rays. Hence the mediocrity
apparent in the greater part of their works. Hence the natural impossibility that the
Irench should exceed in poetry and elofiuence, those boundaries limited to spiritless
minds, and fancy void of vigour. Hence, also, the astonishment occasioned in them
by the grand sublimity of Spanish productions, the faults in w hich, where any exist, arc
so easy of correction.
'• 1 he great Corncillc was only esteemed great among his countrymen from luiving
badly imitated a work of one of our least excelling poets, the work itself much under
mediocrity. (But see how low M. dc la Huerta rates Le Cid.)
*' Athalia by Racine is looked upon as his master piece ; what is there to be seen in
it but a continual evidence of a want of powers ! Since, without noticing die extraordi-
nary number of actors, levitcs and troops intnjduced, a stale trick to make amends for
incapacity of supporting the plot, and the momentum of the piece, without having re-
course to fiction ; the affected regularity, and even the hellenism which he makes shift
to substitute for want of talent, prove sufficiently that the piece ought never to have
passed the walls of the college in which it was composed.
•' Can it then be looked upon as extraordinary that this hero of the French poetry,
after employing three years in composing his Phuidra, should end with laming the cha-
racter of Hypohtus ? The whole of this tragedy is replete with considerable faults, and
the choice of an action so abominable in itself, even in the eyes of the least scrupulous
or delicate, is certainly not the least. Merely from reading of it once I formed a very
mean idea of Phoedra ; but after seeing it acted at Paris, where Mademoiselle Dumeril,
a celebrated actress, performed the part of Phoedra, I was so greatly hurt at seeing all
3x2
U
II
r'l
32A
/it)i;i<(,|/ N..I,'.. 1I<.\'. fl.i th Cf'A/N.
"'Br'
clc(tncy iitid j>roI)>ibili(y '.o vioUiitly onfr.i'i^fd in lur (Icf.lii in.it ion, tli;it I firinK r(;solv((!
never to bf 'Jiockcfl in the same niariii' r ngiin." W'liat a pniiislimcnt lor the author
and tho ;if.ir( ss !
Don Jnati ("ad.ihalso f;: Sj/aiii;ird in oth-r n spccts very well inform^ ?!, with wh.>rti I
mafic acf|naiiilan(t; on n.}' Iirst jonrnty toSpiin) .ifur spcakinfj at first in hi^Ii terms (>i
IMi(e(ha,alh;'riii[^ to th; l;inions recital ol 'rheraniines, ihns (x pressed hin)sclf; Sir, in
this I'luedra, iliestUeis ol'lhat poni|)OMS and iiid.i'ed dcsciij/ion wliich \vc an; so muf;!.
accnsionied to < riticisc in our poor anthors ol'tJH last ecntnry. When in s'i])port of his
assertion he translated literally this relition, in order to s;itisl'y tho'jc amonj^ his auditor?.,
who wen artniirers (;f the I'renih drama, that when authors attempt to imitate Spanish
sublimity, they nuist either do so hy an exact translation, or I'ailini^ of this, remain in a
state ol inferiority, both ridiculous and shamehil in tlie (yes of all Spaniards; notwilh-
standitif^ the unconsciousness of I'Vench hearers to their del)ised appearance. Such is
tlu; sublimity of Iticinein the fjpinion of the Spaniards; Avhom, on the other hand, the
French consickr vastly to surpass the best of Spanish writers.
La Ilti'rta iloes not treat IVIoliere h ss rigoroush', than our two tragic writers. In f;
liote which \m cedes el Custigo de la Miseria (the punishment of avarice) one of t!ie pro-
tended chef d'uMivres of the Spanish language, which he rcj)riutcd, he takes exception
at those who reckon this piece to finish at the second act. He sa) s " It is rather extra-
ordinary that those who blame it for this defect, should tolerate and admire 'I'artuffe ; of
which the first, the se'cond, and the fifth act arc entirely superfluous. Mf)reover, this ce-
lebrated comedy finishes in the same manner as our Intermes, and if the indecency of it
be excepted, bears much rcfiemblance to them." VV'c shall notice, as we prrjceed, what
these Intermes are, and whether U: comparison does much honour to the sagacity of M.
dc la Huerta.
It however remains for those foreigners to decide, who arc acrjuaiuted with the Spa-
nish stage, wliedier it be blindness, or il! will, that has actuated this unmerciful censor
in his judgment. For my part, without retaliating his injurious sentence, I shall only
observe that all those who possess any vestige of tas{c, either in Spain or in otht-r coun-
tries, agree, that with the exception of some l\:w modern pieces, the Spanish drama is
replete with the most shockinj/ defects. Improbable incidents are crowded on each other,
it is filled with extravagance, and 'ts language is a medley of pomposity and vulgarity.
It mixes the most miserable parade with aftecting and sometimes terriiile parts; it has
continually a fool called graeJo-sO on lUc boards, sometimes humorous, but more fre-
3uently insipid, who by his wretchc-d jokes is ever distracting the attention of the au-
icnce from the piece. Lovers arc diffuse and talkative. The pleasure arising from
features of delicacy, which occasionally occur, is destroyed by long dissertations on love.
Scarcely one of their plays is free from the blame imputed by M. de la Huerta to the
superfluous recital of the fate of Hypolitus by Theramines ; not only are such repetitions
common but disgusting at the same time by their digressions, their gigantic compari-
sons, and their extraordinary abuse of common sense. On the other hand, the plot pre-
sents such an intricate labyrinth that there ;s sciircely any play, to which these verses of
Boileau may not be applied : '
Et qui debrouillant mal une penibic intrigue
D'un divertissement me fait unc fatigue. "
' ; ' Whose mazy plot, unravelled with pain, '
lustead of pleasing, but fatigues the brain.
This fatigue however does not appear to be felt by a Spanish audience, not even by
those whose minds are least iraproved. Whether the people naturally possess an aptitude
KOUII^O.ANNE's IHAVf, f, , IN t J- A I N .
hi:
lie Jiuihor
1 \^h >m I
terms ol
f; Sir, in
so mticii
>ort of his
auditor';,
Spanish
main in n
notwith-
Such is
i;ind, th'.
TS. In !.
i t!ic pre-
'XCCptiiMl
icr txtra-
rtuffc ; of
■, this cc-
ncy of it
^cd, what
ityofM.
the Spa-
iil censor
hall only
»crcoun-
drama is
ch other,
uigarity.
s ; it has
lore fre-
f the au-
ng from
> on love,
a to the
petitions
:ompari.
plot pre-
i^erses of
■v>,it*
even by
aptitude
to follow the thrc'td of n plot however complicated, uhether i( \)C the re»>iiltof h.tbif, it
is J ft certain that thiy hive in this rcsj)ect a great adv. intake ovcrotlier nations, and par-
ticniarly ih( !*>( iich. On (his account much art IxconK h ncccsHiry. in firtinjja Spanish
comedy (aiul there crrf liuly arc m'lny w( II north iifloptin<^) to f!ic French staj^c. This
trilnite hiish'cn paid it In oiir forefathers, 'i'he service of the Spmish dnim.i to Moliert
and Corneiile is well known, Corneille extracted the chief beanrics of the Cid anri Hera-
clius from (inillen (h: Custro, and C jlderon ; and took miicfi of his Ll.ir fr'<m the Spa-
nish. Moliere is indehtc d to the same authority for his Don Jii ai or Le Festin de
Pierre; hut at the same time all their skill was necessary to these men of genius, in mo-
delling the strange originals which they had to work upon f^r the French stage, for
none f)f these Spanish compf 'v^n* could have been represented on th-jir boards, without
undergoing a change, the btv of them ''^irig so much filled with relations repn.^^nant to
the taste and maniu rs of Fratice. .An actor at one of our smaller theatres hr.s recently
however made some fortunate essays in this line ; although his Ruse contrc Ruse (Strata-
gem for Stratagem, and hisNuit aux Aventures (a Night of .\flventures) mny rather \)C
looked u|)on as pretty close imitations, than translations of two Spanish comedie-j. Ex-
act translations of Spanish pieces would be next to imposiible. I)uperron de Custcrain
1738 published extracts from several Spanish plays with rcnectious and translations of
the most diflicult and remarkable passage^i. .\Ir. Liiiguet ga\ e some of them to the
Eublic on entering his literary career. But separate from his making a bad sdectifjn he
new not enough of the Spanish language to fulfil his task completely ; on which account
his translations arc no more than abridgements, in which nothin'^ uut tlie skeleton of a
dramatic poem is preserved ; and the passages not rendered were not those which dis-
pleased the translator, but such as he did not understand, so that I do not conceive that
there exists one single Spanish piece perfectly and wholly translated into the French
language. A principal obstacle to faithful translations exists in the innumerable puns
with which the Spanish plays are filled, as well as all their other works of fancy ; and a-s
their minutely subtile genius is ever prompt to seize the slightest resemblances, and pro-
duce at every instant iitlusions to localities, customs and anecdotes of the day ; these
works oecome excessively difficult of comprehension even to the natives, and are almost
impossible to be understood by foreigners ; so that a translation of them, unless loaded
with comments at every page, would be almost entirely unintelligible.
The Spaniards have always had a great aptitude for poetry-. Their Lilent for extem-
poraneous productions is less ceiebriit( d, but is equally deserving of fame with that of
the Italians. I have frequently been witness to ability of this description, which was al-
most miraculous. I have seen Spanish versifiers little known beyond their sphere, who
have supported poetic challenges, which would have dismayed our most fertile and in-
genious composers. I have been witness to their engendering strophes of ten lines
formed upon the same rhyme, and which by the Spaniards are called decimas, in the
twinkling of an eye. A stander-by gives for subject of such a piece, the last line which
he fixes on at hazard; this is called echar pit. Instantaneously the poet produces nine
others which are to precede the line given, which forms a natunil close : and frequently
neither the rapidity of these improvisob, nor the fetters with which the author is shackled,
prevent their possessing considerable merit. Triey are at any rate little burlesque pieces,
the emphatic utterance of which serves to uii wrinkle the broiv of the most serious ; in
which it is true good sense is sometimes ouUagcU, but in which the laws of poetry of?
rigorously observed.
526
BOUnOOANNt's TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
The forms of poetry are singularly various among the Spaniards. Their language,
very flexible and fitted for inversions, comprises all descriptions of metre common to
Eurojjcan tongues ; but they have one in a V'cion peculiar to themselves. Their rhymed
verse is easy distinguishable both by the ' ■ and the car, and is culled consonante. But
the couplets called assonantes would scarcely be taken for verse by those who should not
be informed thereof; and it is in this kind of poetry that their theatrical compositions
both ancient and modern are written almost from beginning to end.
They begin generally with a succession of real riiymes, either continued, or alternate,
of an equal number of feet in the one instance, or in the other of an unequal number.
After the first or second scene the assonantes succeed, sometimes after but a short run
of consonantes, and continue with the intervention occasionally of a few consonantes to
the end of the piece. These assonantes are a continuance of phrases with a cadence,
subject to a certain measure. Each of them forms a verse, but the assonante happens
only in every other line, and does not require an actual rhyme. It is sufficient that the
two last vowels of each second line, should be the same. An example will render this
more comprehensible, for which purpose I have selected at hazard the following from a
Spanish piece :
Ya, Leonor estamos solas
Sulyan per la boca asuera
Taiuos evidados del alma
Como mc afligcn y carcan ;
Y antes que de mis presarcs
Intetite, amiga, dar Lucnt«
Es bicn que potideri aora
Con admirasicn discreta
Que sicndo ias dos amigas
Tanto, que enluza y esU'ccha, Sec. Sec.
At first sight there appears no rhyme in these ten lines, there is none in fact in the
first, third, seventh, and ninth ; neither is it requisite there should be. But the second,
fourth, sixth eighth, and tenth, are assonantes, because each of them has for its two final
vowels, an e, and an a.
A foreigner might frequent the Spanish theatre for ten years whhout suspecting the
existence of assonantes, and when pointed out to him, he will yet find it difficult to fol-
low the trace of them ; but what he so hardly perceives, does not escape a Spaniard,
even for an instant, however illiterate he may be. The second verse of a long course of
assonantes is scarcely pronounced before he distinguishes the succession of final vowels,
which begins its empire ; he is intent on their periodical return, and an actor wou'O a jt
whh impunity attempt to supplant them by others ; singular faculty which pertains to ihc
delicate organization of the people of the south, and the aptitude for declamation of the
most vulgar and obscure individuals. These play a principal part at the theatre ; their
number and assiduous attendance form together one of the circumstances which render
its reform so difficult.
The theatre itself had as mean an original among the Spaniards as in France, and
preserver iii many plrces its primitive form. Two parallel curtains, facing the audience,
composed all the mechanic parts of the play-house, and there are places where this has
not been improved upon. Behind the second curtain is the prompter, with a candle in
one hand, and his piece in the other, running from one side to the odier to assist with
his function those actors who are in need of his help ; but the theatres of Madrid of
BOUUCOANNli's TllAVE/.S IN SPAIN.
5^7
the present day, and in other great towns, the slips, chan};^,s of scenery and decorations,
and the position of the prompter arc much the same as at Paris. At first indeed one
is somewhat vexed at hearing the prompter recite the parts, in almost as audible a tone
of voice as the actors. To this defect, however, one soon becomes reconciled, and
after long custom it is scarcely noticed.
The play-house is divided into five parts La tiuneta which answers to the Parquet of
the French, and occupies part of the advanced part where the orchestra is placed with
us. Los Aposentos, which are two rows of boxes, in the upper part of the theatre, La
Cazuela, a kind of amphitheatre on the ground floor. In this part the women of com-
mon rank only arc admitted, covered with their veils, for the most part white; but
therein creep as well those charming intruders, who under the auspices of love f\re
anxious to cheat the vigilance of some jealous hawks, or some idlers of the ton, who
arc either too lazy to decorate themselves, or desirous of saving the expencc of having
their hair drest after the French fashion. Las gradas, another amphitheatre above the
boxes on both sides the house, where such of the common people as are desirous of
sitting at tfieir ease resort; and El patio, or the pit which contains none but the vulgar,
with all their brutal mani'crs, their ignorance, and their rags. This part of the audience,
which has no seats, is always noisy, and as difficult to be pleased, as if it had fair
pretensions.
The actors oftentimes address these five classes of spectators under the title of mos-
queteros, and are lavish towards them ol cuch stale epithets as they deem calculated to
secure their favour.
At Madrid, the actors are shared by two theatres, that of La Cruz, and that of El
Principe, which for interest sake make common cause. There is, however, a rivalship
as to ability kept up between them. Each has one of the players for a director, who
every year dissolves and re-composes his troop. It is then that the actors, who are the
greatest favourites with the public, expose themselves for sale, and close with the most
expert or most generous. It will be readily imagined, that the graciosos are not forgot
on these occasions. The two directors make arrangements between themselves for di-
viding them, for fear that too evident an inequality should exist between the two troops,
and each in consequence should equally suffer. As for the others, all the talents of a
different description are rather calculated for parade than the boards of Thulia. Spain
has no idea of actors, in whom liveliness is united with grace, and sensibility with ele-
gance of delivery ; in one word, of such, as make the art of declamation the relative
and rival of the fine arts. Their actors are but imitators, and while they servilely copy
the models before their eyes, they have no conception of creating new ones in an imagi-
nary but possible world, where every thing 's noble without ceasing to be true.
Driving along the same track, unskilful in delivery, as well as inlheir gesticulation,
they exceed all bounds, exaggerate and disfigure every thing, and instead of managing
their powers to enable them to effect the perfect delineation of their character, they be-
come exhausted, and overstep all limits. Their women where impassioned are furies,
their heroes are coxcombs, their conspirators rascally malefactors, and their tyrants
butchers.
They are far from possessing actors resembling Clairon, Kain, Garrick., or Siddons.
Indeed, in Spain, actors are no other than mercenaries, who are looked upon in so-
ciety but as so many mountebanks, who, while they amuse us, are paid and tolerated,
and afterwards are sent about their business whereas in other countries, where prejudice
causes them, generally speaking, to be still more meanly esteemed, the just admiration
which some inspire, raises them to the level of suiierior artists, and men of genius.
"F
NiaH
•i28
BOUUCOANNE S i'UAVKLS it: ^-TAIN.
In their nncicnt comedies, irtkTicienliu some rcs^iects, they yet aftbrilcd pleasing ex-
amples oi' every virtue which can he taught a people ; such as loyally, maf^nanimity,
justice, and particularly benevolence ; and altliough in the exaggeration of their re-
presentiitions they may possess somethinjj offensive to taste, they cannot be seen without
iniplantiuf^ in the mind a disposition to the exercise of these virtues. In the modern
productions of Spain on the contrary, not only do they sacrifice common decency ;
they present the audience wi'h pictures of the most shocking irregularities, without any
attempt to excite the due horror fur such offences. Conspiracies of sons against fathers,
cruelty of husbands, infidelities on the part of wives, and even the unpunished villanies
of malefactors; every thing is given by die actors, i. suffered by the police, and ap-
plauded by the public. The consequences of this safftrance are, however, important,
l)ariicularly in Spain, where the theatre is frequented by all classes of people. The
populace even seem to be the principal object of their respects and adulation. They
are sovereign at the Spanish theatre. Their whims must be attended to, their perverse
taste be flattered, and the tumultuous manner in which they express their vulgar sensa-
tions, stifles the less noisy voice of the more enlightened part of die audience ; a singu-
lar, possibly an unique, circumstance in a country where the people seem to be counted
for nothing. Mav we not hence infer that there exists even amidst the most obscure
classes of this people a sort of spirit, a sentiment of independence which is depressed by
the continual sway of arbitrary power, but which although it may keep under, it is yet
unable totally to annihilate ?
One would think that a theatre so loose in its representations, would keep from it
those persons with whom age or their condition of life should make decency a duty ;
but the foreigner sees, and sees with amazement, not only yoinig ladies of a modest
exterior, among the spectators of scenes which put delicacy to the blush, but even ec-
clesiastics whose grave demeanour, and austere dress, form a singular contrast with the
lessons of corruption, and the sallies of libertinism exposed before them. A pagan
worthy formerly left the theatre at Rome lest by his presence he should give a sanction
to the offensive matter which was rejjresented before him. Spanish priests intolerant
with respect to less significant objects are not equally scrupulous with regard to the
interests of virtue. Apostles of religion, are they not (hen doctors of morality ? Or are
they ignorant that without morality religion is but error, and a scourge ? Let them use
their influence in reforming the theatre, and no one will take exception at their appear-
ing at it.
As to its reform, a combination of circumstances must take place in Spain before
this can be expected. The sovereign in the first place should take an interest in it.
Louis XIV, knew and patronised Moliere; he himself presided at the brillia»it tnter-
tainments which he gave, and in which a conspicuous station was assigmd to the druma.
Wherefore had the Spanish theatre some celebrity in the reigns of Philip III, and Philip
IV, which in so many respects are considered as epochs of the di eline of Spain ? The
reason was because those princes encouraged dramatic writers by their approbation, and
rewards ; it was because they themselves took plcasun in theatrical exhibitions.
The kings of the new dynast) , who in other matters have been so worthy of praise in
departing from these sad models, have not, as they did, etirried their generative attention
to the Spanish stage. Philip V, was of a pious disposition, and loved a retired life.
Ferdinand VI, was more attached to Italian arts than those of Spain. Charles III, who
seemed to hold out encouragement to other arts, who built La Caserta, withdrew Her-
culaneum from its tomb, adopted the pencil of Mengs, and embellished with several
monuments of his taste, the capital of Spain. Charles 111, if he had not an aversion to
BOUR(,0 ANNf.'s IllAVELS IN SPAIN.
5i2P
the stage, yet looked upoti it with the most complete indifference ; and Charles IV,
has not yet been able to tfltct a regeneration, whieh is looked for uith impatience by
all who are attached to the drama. Tiicir minister, Florida Blanca, appeared to patro-
nize the theatre of the capital, but he rather participated in the taste of the nation than
felt disposed to combat it.
The part of the police, which has relation to the theatres, is divided between the Cor
rcgidor, the members of the town-hall, and the Alcaldes de Cortc. But the limits
of their jurisdictions are so indistinctly marked, that from an uncertainty as to proper
authorities, result the irregularities, which each of these inspectors sec, but which sepa-
rately neither has the faculty of preventing. Each ol the three or lour censors, before
whom every fresh oi^ence must be carried, is desirous of removing from himself thtr
odium of punishing, and consequently relies for greater rigour on his colleagues ; so
that their collective voice for the suppression of impure productions, equally offensive
to decency and good taste, is difiicult to be obtained. Add to which, these differeni
examiners arc frequently, themselves, infected ^vith the general contagion. Besides the)
must possess more resolution than what falls to their share commonly, to snatch from
the people the objects of their admiration, and not to yield to the representations of
the comedians, whose receipt would suffer from such sudden reforms.
Mr. Olavidi, whose active capacity was capable of embracing at once every part of
administration, together with the police, had began to effect some salutary reforms in
the decorations, dress and the art of declaiming ; and this formed a charge on the part
of his enemies against him utthc time of his disgrace.
Some samples were given in the reign of Charles III, of a resolution at reform,
which cannot oe too r.uch exercised for poll Jiing the Spanish nation. The autos sacra-
mentales \wre definitively proscribed ; in these pieces, angels, saints, and the virtues
personified, played each their different part, to the great scandal of religion and rea-
son ; whimsical compositions, in w hich Calderon particularly displayed all the capricious
fecundity of his genius. Other pieces have also been interdicted, such as Los zelos dc
San Josef, and particularly the Devil turned parson, dramas of a description at once
pious and farcical, in which innocence formerly perhaps found subject for edification.
A revolution is begun, even in the mechanical part of the theatre. At Madrid, at
least, decorations are better understood, the costume more appropriate ; and one no
longer sees (if ever such was the case as is represented by the witty impostor who has
treated the world with Le voyage de Figuero) one no longer sees Orosmanes in a dress-
ing gown, and Zara in a fart in gale. There are incongruities enough upon the Spanish
boax^, to render unnecessary the inventions of a witty mind, to increase the ridicule it
merits. In Spain, as well as in Italy, actors of both sexes, cast their eyes over the
baxes, and smile graciously on such persons as they may chance to know ; and after a
long speech, when they receive applause, they never fail turning towards the spectators,
testifying their gratitude by a profound obeisance. These are defects whieh relate to
the comedians. 1 shall give a specimen of others which pertain to the theatre itself.
Sometimes one or more of the actors entirely quits the stage, and takes his place iiv
the boxes, whence a dialogue is kept up between him and the other performers. Nay,
I know a piece, in which this extravagance is carried to a still higher pitch. It ra one of
those heroic comedies in which the Moors and Spr<aiiards at war with each other are
prodigal of eloquent outrage. One of 'Jic Moorish generals, unable to force his way
towards his foes, to wliom he has to iaiiw» soaoe threateuing declaration, gallops into
the pit, and thence harangues the Spaniards.
VOL. V, 3 r
f*
"
I'
1
530
BOUnCOANNE's TRAVfiLS IN SPAIN.
I
I
What shall I say of the strange custom of intcrwcavlnf? in their most serious comedies
little pieces which have no relation to them whatever? I speak of those modern come-
dies which the Spaniards call Saynetes or Intermes, which are little i)icces in one act, as
simple in thi ir plots as those of the great pieces are complicated. The manners and
ciiaracter of the inferior classes of society, and the petty interests which associate or di-
vide them, are therein represented in the most striking manner. It is not nn imitation
but the thing itself. The spectator seems to be suddenly transported into a circle of
Spaniards, Mhere he is present at their amusements and little cavillings. The manner
of dress is so faithfully copied that he is sometimes disgusted. He sees porters, flower-
girls, and fish- women, who have all the gestures, manner, and language of those he has
seen a hundred times in the street. The Spaniards do not seem to be aware that nature
in her most simple garb may be embellished without ceasing to bear resemblance, and
ihuc it is in this that the merit of the art of imitation consists. The same observation
may be made of the productions of their school of painting. Look at the shepherds,
the young peasants of Velasquez, nay even of Murillo, they arc with respect to elegant
painting, what the Saynetes are to the dramatic art, striking but disgusting by their too
exact resemblance. For these kind of characters the Spanish comedians have an admir-
able talent. Were they equally natural in every other they would be the first actors in
Europe.
The Saynetes seem to have been invented to give relief to the attention of the audience
fatigued by following the plot of the great piece through its inextricable labyrinth.
Their most certain effect is that of making you lose the clew ; for it seldom happens
that the real Spanish comedies are represented without interruption. There are scarcely
any exceptions unless in new pieces, either original or translated, in which the writers
nave felt the necessity of greater regularity. All the old ones are composed of three
acts, called Jornados. Alter the first act comes the Saynete, and the warrior or king,
whom you have seen adorned with a helmet or a crown, has frequently a part in the
little piece ; and to spare hipiself the trouble of^cntirely changing his dress, sometimes
pivserves a part of his noble or royal garments. His sash or buskin sMll appears beneath
the dirty cloak of a man of the lowest class, or the robe of an Alcalde.
When the Saynete is finished, the principal piece is continued. After the second act,
there is a new interruption longer than the first ; another Saynete begins, and is suc-
ceeded by a species of comic-operii, very short, and called Tonadilla. A single actress
frequently performs the whole, she relates, in singing, either an uninteresting adventure,
or some trivial and frequently scandalous maxims of gallantry ; she then courts the ap-
plause of the audience as she retires, and the third act of the great piece is permitted to
begin.
What becomes of the illusion, and interest in the piece after these interruptions ?
This may be readily conceived, and it is not uncommon to see great part of the audience
depart after the Tonadilla is finished.
The Saynetes and Tonadillas are frequently the most attractive parts of these strange
medleys, and after a short residence in Spain, it is easy to conceive the attraction which
the Saynetes and Tonadillas must have for the people of the country. The manners,
dress, adventures, and music, all are national ; besides, there are frequently presented in
these little pieces two species of beings peculiar to Spain, and whose manners and ex-
pressions are the objects of much mirth and pleasantry, and somctuues of imitation.
These are the Majos and the Majas on the one part, ;uid the Gitanos and Gitanas on the
other.
flOUnCOANNE S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
331
The majos arc beaux of tlic lower rlass, or rather bullies, whose fjravc und frigid
pomposity is announced by tluir whole exterior. Their countenance, half concealed
under a brown stuff bonnet, called montcra, is threatening^, or full of insolence, which
seems to brave those persons whose station should awe them ii\to res|)ect, and which is
not softened even in the presence of their mistress. The officers of justice scarcely dare
attack them. If provoked by any freedom, a symptom of disiileasure or a menacinj,-
look, a long rapier or apoinard, concealed under their wide cloak, announce that none
must make free with them with impunity.
The majas, on their parts, rival these caprices as much as their feeble means will per-
mit; licentiousness and effrontery appear in their attitudes, action:., and expressions;
but if not very scrupulous about the manner in which voluptuousness is displajed, in
them may be seen the most sediicinjif priestesses that ever sacrificed on the altars of Ve-
nus. Their churminj^ tricks subject the senses to a delirium that the wisest can scarcely
guard against, and v;hich, if it inspire not love, at leasjt gives promise of delight.
Persons of the most indulgent nature are however displeased that the majos and majas
should thus be brought upon the stage, and preserve their attraction even in circles ol
good company. There are, among both sexes, persons of distinguished rank, who
seek their models among these heroes of the populace, who imitate their dress, manners,
and accent, and are flattered when it is said of them, He is very like a majo. One would
take her for a maja.
The gitanos and gitanas are a kind of gipsies who run about the country, lead a disso-
lute life, tell fortunes, exercise all kinds of suspicious professions, have among themselves
a language, particular signs, in short are dexterous knaves, who prey upon the unwary.
This class of vagabonds, of which society ought to be purged, has hitherto been tole-
rated; and characters of them are given upon the stage, amusing by their originality;
but the effect of this is, it renders vice iiimiliar by concealing its deformity under a gay
exterior. They are, if I may so say, the shepherds of the Spanish stage, certainly less
insipid, but at the same time less innocent than those of ours. Their tricks, plotij, and
amorous intrigues, suited to their manners, are the subjects of several saynetes and tona-
dillas, and probably serve for lessons to many a spectator.
Such is the modern Spanish stage. There are playhouses at present in most of the
principal towns of Spain. It may easily be conceived that their defects are even still
greater than those of the capital. What then can we think of their strolling-players,
called comicos de la legua, who travel from town to town with the rags which serve
them for decorations, and perform in barns and stables ? The heroes of Scarron are at
least entertaining, these excite nothing but disgust.
After the death of Ferdinand Vi, who had an Italian theatre at his court, there was for
a long time no other than the national theatre. The marcpiis de Grimaldi re-established
the Italian house at the court of Charles HI, but it disappeared upon his retirement.
Towards the latter part of his reign, this prince permitted the formation of one in his
capital, which still subsists. The principal hospital at Madrid in the first instance was
to pay theexpence of maintaining it, and receive the profits, but turning out disadvan-
tageous, the management of it was given to the proprietors, principally grandees, who
however have not been able to support it without expcnce. Serious ^opera and farce is
represented at this theatre ; the decorations are handsome, the dresses splendidly rich,
and the corps de ballet of a superior description. The Spanish actors having these mo-
dels before them, appear to be pleased with them, nevertheless their representations con
tinue nearly the same. They may therefore be deemed incurable.
3 Y 2
<
53a
IIOURUOANN&'S TRAVELS IN SfAIK.
I
As for Fniicli theatres, thcv nrc at present, and for a lonpj time hack liavc been, en
tircly hanisliul from Swain. Towards the middle of the reign of Charles III, one was
established at Cadiz. The persons concerned were ruined, and the plan given np. Since
Uuit lime it was in contemplation to introduce one at Madrid. The ambassador Vau-
guyon seemed irrcatly interested in the scheme. The de\otees resisted it, pretending
tliat Frenci ' were full of maxims of tolerance, and breadicd too much of modern
philosophy reckoned no lessUian sixteen heretical assertions in the single piece
of Pygmalio. ».i .iddition, the hospital, whose support in a great degree depended upon
the revenue w hieh it received Iron) the two national theatres, it was apprehended might
suffer from its establishment. The king listened to the conjoint remonstrance of religion
and charity against the measure, and the plan was laid aside. Notwithstanding this, the
nation has become accustomed to the translations of some of our plays, although the time
must needs be looked upon as distant at which we may see a French theatre at Madrid.
CHAPTER XIV.
OF THE BULL FICHTK.
AT the head of the amusements of the Spanish nation must be placed one which be-
longs almost exclusively to itself, one too to which it is singularly attached, notwith-
standing its being obnoxious to the delicacy of the rest of Europe ; I mean the bull-
fights.
Many Spaniards look upon them as one means of preserving, in their nation, that
energetic spirit by which they arc characterised ; yet it is difficult to comprehend what
relation there can be to strength and courage, in a spectacle where those present arc ex-
posed to no danger, and in which the actors prove by the rarity of accidents, that the
hazard they themselves run is not of a nauire to excite much concern. I know very
well that exaggeration frequently represents accidents as very common. It is true, those
cavaliers who arc thrown from their horses sometimes receive very violent contusions ;
but in the course of nine years that I was a spectator of these fights, I never knew of
more than one Torreador who died of his wounds. HoA'cvcr, a priest is always at hand,
in a latticed box, furnished with holy oil in case of necessity. Yet were accidents as fre-
quent as they arc uncommon, they might familiarize the spectators with the effusion of
blood, and the sufferings of their fellow-creatures, but could not habituate them to the
fronting of danger, or endurance of pain. They might render them unfeeling and cruel,
but never resolute and brave. Another proof that this spectacle has no influence upon
the minds of those who frequent it is, that I have seen among the spectators children,
young women, old people of both sexes, men of every age, class, and character, in whom
however these bloody entertainments did not tend to correct weakness or timidity, nor
changed the mildness of their manners. Nay more, I have known foreigners of great
benignity of nature, who at first suffered so much at the sight of these bulUfights as to
change colour, yet who afterwards became much enamoured with the exhibition. These
diversions are very expensive, but very profitable to the undertakers. The price of the
lowest places is two, or four rials, according as they are exposed to the sun, or in the
shade. The highest price is a hard dollar. After the value of the horses and bulls, and
the salary of the Torreadores, have been deducted from the money received, the remain-
der is commonly dedicated to pious uses : at Madrid it forms a principal fund for the
support of the general hospital.
Bull-fights are mostly given in summer, on account of the spectators who remain in
the open air, and the animals being then more vigorous. Peculiar breeds are set apart
BOUHCOANNE's TUAVLL3 IN SPAIN.
5iJ
31'tn, en
one u'iis
I p. Since
dor Van-
rctcnding
(■ modern
f?lc piece
(led upon
ed might
" religion
this, the
1 the time
Madrid.
vhich be-
notwith-
thc bull-
ion, that
end what
\t are ex-
that the
^ovv very
•lie, those
iitusions ;
■ knew of
s at hand,
Its as fre-
fTusion of
;m to the
nd cruel,
tice upon
children,
in whom
dity, nor
of great
hts as to
1. These
ce of the
or in the
)ulls, and
remain-
d for the
emain in
s$t apart
for this species of sacrifice. A list is delivered to the spectators in whicti the nutuhcr and
the country ol'the victims are described, whose torture is intended for their ii'nusenient.
There are twenty benches round the circle, and that only which is niof^t elevated is co.
vcred. The boxes are in the upper i)art of the edifice. In some cities, siieh as Valla-
dolid, where tijere is no particular place set apart for the combat, t!\e principal sfjuarc is
converted into a theatre for the purpose. Tlie sif^ht of the neo|)le of every class assem-
bled round the square, expecting the signal for battle, andexhiiiitingin their countenan-
ccs every sign of joy and impatience, has in it something interesting.
The exhibition begins by a kind of procession round the i^quare, in which the cham-
pions, as well on foot as on horseback, who are to attack the fierce animal, make their
appearance, dressed in all the elegance of Spanish costume; the Picadoresinaroundhat,
half covered with a short cloak, the sleeves of which rtoat ■ i the air, are on horseback, in
white skin gaiters : those who are on foot are dressed in no lightest and nicest maimer,
and in pumps ; both wear silk jackets of a bright colour, and trimmed with ril)bands,
with a scarf of a difierent colour, and their hair bound up in a large silk net, the fringes
hanging from which descend as low as the reins. After the procession is finished two
the circle, makes his appearance. The agents of Themis, who have no quarrel with
him, prudently hasten their retreat, and their fright, generally ill seconded by the speed
of their horses, is the prelude to the cruel amusement which the spectators arc about to
enjoy.
In the mean time the bull is tttutiiu d with their cries and noisy expressions of wel-
come. He has first to combat with the IvitMimn (pjcarlon s) who wait for him armed
with long lances. This exercise, which rcfifli/(.) iiddn ss, itrcngtli, and courage, has
nothing in it degrading. Formerly the greatest among (Ik nobility tlid not disdain to takr
a part in it ; at present even some hidalgos solicit fjif honour of combating on horseback.
The picadores open the scene. The bi;ll, Wllhout bei(ig| nrovoked, frequenti) attacks
them, upon which circumstance, when it liilj/|»i /iij, (fii HijtLluloifi conceive a great opi-
nion of his courage. If, /lotwlllistanding the iitillifni Ji.el which repels his attack, he
again returns to the charge, cries ai ' »iibU(I, niKJ pli asure then becomes enthusiasm;
rage, n, /lOiwllfistJinrnng
) the charge, cries ai ' »ii
but if the animal be pa* ffir, disconcerted, uiuj /
his persecutors, murmur and hissing ri^r(i|fi(| tjiiw
rouse his courage, he is judged unwoithy iij in j/f
cries of perros, perrus, bring on him new eneinlls.
>nnd die circle, avoiding
If nothing can
, and the repeated
gs are then let loose upon
him, who seize him by the neck and cars Tjie anjinal then assumes the use of his na-
wn Into ijie ulr '
ground ; they rise again, renew tlic combat, t
turai weapons. The dogs thrown Into ijie ulr I ill (unned, sometimes gored, upon the
ground; they rise again, renew tlic combat, u \ iwwmiy end by overthrowing their
adversary, who then perishes ignohly. ,
On the contrary, if he conduct nimscif prflfrmy, his career is more glorious, but of
greater duration and more painluj. The first net of the tragedy belongs to the combat-
ants on horseback ; this is the most animated out the most bloody and disgusting part
of the whole.
The irritated animal braves the fitet 1 which makes deep wounds in his neck, falls
furiously upon the innocent horse who carries his enemy, gores his sides, and overturns
him with his rider, who in this case upon the ground and disarmed, is in imminent
danger, until the combatants ot! fooi ailed < hulos, come to his assistance, and provoke
the animal bv shaking beiore lum stuffs of different colours.
„-».-»"
534
H()un<;oANNi.'a ibavri.s in sr.M.v.
!
Rut it is not uitliout danger to themselves tbai they save the distnniiiited liorscman.
•The bull oritntimcs pursues them, and they then have need of tluir utmost aj^ility.
Thvy ebcape by letting fall the piece ol'stufl vvhieh is their only weapon, and upon uhieh
t!u- fury oi'thedeeeived animal is exhausted. Uut it sometitnes hap|)c^is that he is not
thus to he imposed upon, and the chami)ion has no other resource than kapiuj^ over the
barrier six feet high, which forms the interior of the circle. In souk places there arc
two barriers, and the intermediate space forms a kind of circular g.-ll' rv, behind which
the torreador is in safely. The bull IVecpiendy leaps over the lirst indosure, but tmeasy
and ignorant what to do, he continues his course along the corridor, until an onening
brings him anew into the arena ; but when tiie barrier is single, the bull maivcs eflortstu
Kaj) it, which he sometimes accomplishes. 'I'he alarm of the nearest spectators may
easily be imagined; their precipitation in retiring, and erbwding upon the upper benches,
becomes more fatal to them than die fury of the animal, which stumbling at each step
upon the narrow and uneven space, rather Ujinks of saving himself than satisfying his
vengeance ; and soon falls under the blows that are hastily and repeati-dly given him.
Kxceptin these cases, which arc rare, he returns to the charge. His dismounted ad
vcrsary having had time to recover himself, immediately mounts his horse again, pro-
vided the latter be not too much wounded, and the attack is renewed ; but the cavalier
is frequently obliged to ciiange his horse. I have seen seven and eight horses gored, or
their bowels torn out, by the same bull, full dead upon the field of battle. No words
can then sufticiently celebrate these acts of prowess, which for several days become the
favourite subjects of conversation. The horses, astonishing examples of patience, cou-
rage, and docility, at times, before they die, present a sight at which humanity shud-
ders : they tread imder feet the bloody entrails which fall from their lacerated sides, and
still continue to obey the hand which guides them. Disgust then seizes such of 'w
spectators as possess any sensibility and embitters their pleasure.
But a new act in the piece succeeds. When the bull is deemed sufliciently torment-
ed by, the combatants on horseback, these withdraw, and leave him to the champions on
foot, called bunderillcros ; who meet the animal, and the moment he attacks them, stick
into his neck, two by two, a kind of arrow, called a banderilla, terminated like a fish-
hook, and ornamented with litde streamers of stained paper. The fury of the bull re-
doubles ; he roars, and his vain efforts serve but to increase the anguish occasioned by
the dart lodged in him. This last torment gives a fine opportunity for a display of the
agility of his new adversaries. The spectators at first tremble for their safety when they
see them so near the horns of the animal ; but their skilful hands inflict so sure a blow,
and they escape so nimbly from the danger, that after a few times their address appears
nothing more than a trifling episode in the tragedy of which the catastrophe is as fol-
lows :
When the vigour of the bull appears almost exhausted, and his blood, flowing from
twenty wounds, pours from his neck, and moistens his robust sides, the fury of U»e
people, then satiated, calls for another victim ; the president then gives the signal for his
death, which is announced by the sound of drums and trumpets. The matador advan-
ces and remains alone in the circle; in one hand he holds a long knife, in the other a kind
of flag, which he waves before his adversary. At first each stops and observes the other.
The mipetuosity of the bull is several times avoided by the agility of the matador, and
the pleasure of the spectators is rendered more lively by their suspence. Sometimes
the animal remains immoveable ; he scrapes the ground with his feet and seems to me_-
ditate vengeance.
'4' • ' U
%
lOlTRCOANMK S lUAVKti IN tfWfi.
535
Hicnian.
;iKiliiy.
in which
R' in not
over tijc
luTC arc
(1 which
t uneasy
oncninf";
cliortstu
)rs may
)cnchc8,
uch step
ying his
1 tiini.
intedud
ain, pro*
: cavalier
'ored, or
fo words
ome the
ice, cou-
ity shud-
lides, and
h ol' '^e
torment-
ipions on
ivn, stick
e a fish-
bull re-
ioned by
ly of the
hen they
s a blow,
5 appears
is as fol-
Ing from
r)' of tlic
U for his
jradvan-
icr a kind
he other,
dor, and
imetimes
s to me-
■ •.»fs ?
The Willi in this situation, and ihc Matador who penetrates lus d* sip), and carefully
vhMTvcs his rilightcMt motion, forma pictua* whi(!h an able pencil might not decn> un.
worthy of dclintutioii. 'I'hc asscn'bly notice thi;. dumb «<:cne in silence. At length tlie
Matiiclor gives the fatal blow ; and i( the animal inmicdiatt ly talis, the triumph of the
concjueror is cekbrakd by a thousand txc!am;jtion» ; but if the blow be not decisive, if
the bull survive, the murmurs are not kss numerous. The .Matador, whose address
was about to be extolled to tht skies, is looktil upon only as a clumsy butcher. He in-
stantly endeavours to recover Irom his disgrace. His zeal then Incomes blind fury,
and his partisiuis tremble lor iiis life. At last he gives :• better directed blow. The
animal von.iits streams of blood, strug};ics with death, staggers, fiUls. His coruiueror
then is lifted to the skies bj the applauses of the people. Three mules covered with
bells and banners ternunate the piece, dr^gKinj^the bull by those ho us which betrayed
his valour from out of the circle, leaving behind the traces of his blood, and a slight re-
membrance of his exploits, soonefiliced by the appearance of his successor.
On each of the days didicated to these fiasts(at lea;>t at Madrid) six bulls are sncri-
ficed in the morning, and twelve in the alu moon. The three last of the animals are
exclusively left to the Matador, who, deprived ofany assisiano-from the Picadores, em-
ploys all his dexterity in varying ihe pleasures of tlt..'s|>ectato<i-s. He sometimes allows
an intrepid stranger, mounted upon another bull, to combat them ; at others he turns
a bear against them. The last bull is particularly devoted to '.he entertainment of the
populace. The points of his horns arc covered with a round case, which diminishes
the efl'ect of their strokes. In this state the bull, which is then called Embolado, loses
the power of piei ing and lacerating his adversary. The spectators descend in crowds
to torment hin>, each alter his own way, and often pay for their cruel pleasure
by violent contc ions; but the creature always falls at last under the blows of the
Matador.
The few spectau's who do not partake ?he rage of the populace, regret that these
trretchcd animals hine not their lives, at least saved, in recompense for their many tor-
tures, and display ot eouragi\ They would willingly aid them to escape from their
persecutors. In these the humanr few, disgust succeeds to compassion, and weariness
to disgust: the i uilorm succe^^sion of similar scenes throws alangour upon the amuse-
ment which the spectiicle promised at tit beginning. It recals the opinion given by
Pliny of the games of the circus : nihil \ovum, nihil varium, nihil quod non semel
spectasse sufficiat."^
But to the connoisseurs who havv studied the ?irtificcs of the bull, the resources of
his address and fury, the different method:; of tantalizing, deceiving, and tormenting
him (for in some provinces this is a study from youth to manhood) to these no one
see' sembles another, and they pity undistinguishing observers who cannot perceive
theu" vat i.jty. .
A i'Ki y^er worthy of composing a didactic poem on this matter, u appearance so bar.
ten, ar J notwithstanding so famed, the famous Torreador Papehii ),t in 1796 pub-
lished a treatise entitled La Tuuromaquiu o arte de lorrear a pii y a caballo, a work useful
for torreadors, whether professional or amateurs, unique in its kind, a vl much sought
after by the public. Of this, it may be fairly said that the author was d master of his
subject.
• It contains nothing novel, no variation, nothing in short which it h not sufficient for s. - afaction to
have seen a single time.
t He died in 180 1, and it may be truly said in the bed of honour. He fell the victim of a bull he was
about to kill ; the second person who perished thus in the space gf thirty years.
'Kirt
lloancOANNL's lUAVELS IN IfAIX.
In ih'iH piirMiit, as in others, the npirit of party jonfcrs reputation; nn<l disniitci or
cxiiggcrutts sjuccchs. When I arrived at Madrid, the eonnoisbi urs were ilividcd between
two lainoiiii niatadorcs, CoAtillnrcs, and Uumero, as people might Ije in other countricv,
with respect to the merits of two celebrated acturu. i:4ueh nect wdh ast cnihu^iusilic in
its enloginnis and positive in decision as the (Ihicki^tsi atid I'icciiubts pcrliaps were in
France. It is (hlhctilt tobihcve that the art ul killing a bull, uhieh seiins to be the
exehihive privik^c of a butchcT, should be gravely dibcus-sed, and extolled with tran«
sport, not only by the people, but by the best inlornied men, and women of the
greattst hcnsibiliiy. Let lis not, houexer, draw Ironi thi^any concliiuion unfavourable
to the Spaniui'ds. In spite of their sini>(il;ir attachment to bulMi;{his, in spite of the
JKirbarons delifrht they take in seeini; the blood of these innoeent and courageous ani-
mals thus siiilt lor sport, they are nevertheless •iuscepliblo of good nature and hii«
manity. On leaving these bloi dy pastimes, Uiey arc not the less sensible to the comtort
of a pleasant home, to I'rii ndship, nor to love. Their courage does not on this account
become more lerocious. When duels and assassination were more common, they were
not more attached to this favourite nmusement than at ()resent. Their manners are
softened from what they wire anciently, without their passion for buh-lights being dimi-
nished. I'he day on which tluy are celebrated is a day of rejoicing fur the whole dis-
trict, for ten or twelve leagues round the place. The artist wtio ean scarcely provide
for his subsistence, has always a surplus to expend on this spectacle. And woe to the
chastity of the poor girl, whose poverty should exclude her from it ; Uiu man who
should pay for her admission, would certainly [)laec it in danger.
'I'he Spanish government under Charles HI, seemed to be aware of the inconvemencc
of this kind of phrenzy ; the origin of disorders and dissipation, and highly prejudicial
to agriculture by sacrilicing, in such numbers, robust animals which miglu be em.
ployed in cultivation. This king had himself an aversion to bull- lights, anU was desi-
rous of weaning the nation, by degrees, from its attacluuent to them. His first minis-
ter, Florida Blanca, entered into his views. Under his administration the number of
these entertaininentvS, in the principal provincial towns, was dinunished. Lven at Mu>
drid none but weak animals were allowed lor the sport, and the people began to lose
their relish for them : but it was foreseen that under Charles IV, they would resume
their original attraction.
There is in Spain another diversion called La Fiesta de Novillos. In this young bulls
not designed to meet with death, but to grow up for the fatal lists, make trial ol their
budding horns, and are tantalized by a number of amateurs, who, like themselves, are
learners. The prince and princess of Aslurias, not daring to oppose the taste of the
old king Charles HI, yet allowed themselves to enjoy by stealth these parodies of the
grand exhibition. From this it was argued that he would give these games nis counte-
nance. The beginning of the reign coniirmed this conjecture. For a long time none
of those entertainments known by the name of Fiestas reales has been given by the
court. The plaza mayor, on such occasions, was the theatre of these exhibiiions.
The king and his fomily honoured the spectacle with their presence. His military
household presided to keep order. His halbardiers formed the inner circle ol the
theatre, and their long weapons were tlie only barrier opposed to the dangerous caprices
of the bull. There were no more than one of these Fiestas reales in the former reign.
Thty were considered as abolished. But the coronation of the new khig, brought
them again into fashion. Since that period the bull-lights have resumed their former
charm lor the people. Licence is granted with less difficulty to such towns as solicit
leave to establish them for the beneftt of different objects oi charity. Those ol the
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WEBSTER, NY. 14580
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BOURCOANNE's travels in SPAlhf.
537
capital liave again become worthy of awakening that enthusiasm which began to flag.
As early as 1789 the bjU-fights were more animated and bloody than had been known
for a long time ; more than once had one of these animals kept the field after ripping
up all the horses and wounding the greater part of the combatants.
There yet remains therefore two institutions in Spain, to which the nation appears
to be attached by fettering bonds ; two institutions which have more than one point of
contact.
Both inspire a sort of horror at those who defend them.
Both are barbarous, the one as it relates to manners, the other in its respect to
opinion. . , Tr l
Neither should meet with any other apologists than such as Jack Ketch, yet virtue*
belonging to Christianity are both the motive and excuse of each. By the one Faith
arms itself with rigour against incredulity ; in the charitably applied produce of the
other the wretched find relief. ,
One throws impediments in the way of increasing agriculture ; the other is the chiet
obstacle to the progress of philosophy. . i u i
Do they require I should name them ? the one is the Inquisition, the other the
bull-fights.
With these observations, I shall conclude what I had to observe of the manners and
taste of the Spanish nation. From this impartial view of the customs, pleasures, and
resources of its capital it must be allowed, that where a foreigner hat. made himself
master of the Spanish language, a matter easy enough in itself; wlrere he is willing
to introduce himself into the company of the natives of fashion, who are very accessi-
ble ; where the manners of the country, which are singular but not offensive, have once
become familiar, and provided he have no other favour to ask at Madrid than the smiles
of some amiable fair one, he may pass his time as agreeably in this capital as in any
other of Europe,
#
.%
VOLUME THE THIRD.
CHAPTER I.
PROSPECT OF TOLEDO. THE ALCAZAR. MOZARABIC MISSAL. OF THE ARCHBISHOP AND HIS
CLERGY. Ali EXAMPLE OF TOLERATION. ECCLESIASTICAL JURISPRUDENCE WITH RESPECT TO
MARRIAGE. CATHEDRAL AND PUBLIC EDIFICES OF TOLEDO. ITS ENVIRONS. CASA DEL CAM-
PO. VILLAVICIOSA. SAN FERNANDO. LOECHES. TOROS DE GUISANDO. BATTUECAS. AVELA.
ALCOLA. ■ " "
BEFORE I conduct the reader towards the south of Spain, I shall first lead hjm
through different places worthy of attention at a short distance from the capital, whither
I was attracted by curiosity. ^ , ** • i i •
I shall begin with Toledo, a famous city formerly the residence of the Moorish kings,
and at present the see of the primate of Spain. It is situated upon the right bank of
the Tagus, twelve leagues from Madrid, and seven from Aranguez. On the road
from Madrid you pass through two large towns, the lands about which are famous for
their extreme fertility, and high state of culture, called Getafe, and lUescas. But as
is the case almost throughout Castile, they are destitute of trees. ,. ^
VOL. V. 3 z
h
I
-J --
ry^8
UOUUGOANNE S IRAVELS IN SPAIN.
Ill f?oing to Toledo from Araiiguci;, }ou pass throut^h a far more picturesque couii-
tr}'. licyond that residence the valley in \\hich it is situated spreads, and the Tagus
whose course is at times seen at a distance, and at others nif^h, affords some pleasing
views. But during this course its banks arc steep, aiul covered with stones ; and the
river itself which flows tranquilly by Arangucz, on its approaching Toledo and under
its ancient walls, flows with the noise and rapidity of a torrent
Before you e-ntcr Toledo, the Tagus is crossed over a bridge of frightful height.
The idea which one is liable to form of this city from the pomjlius title of imperial,
which it has enjoyed ever since it was taken from the Moors by Alphonso VI, from its
disputing with Burgos for pre-eminence in the assembly of the Cortes of the kingdom of
Castile, whose caj)ital it formerly was, and whose ancient splendour is attested by its
monuments, but ill agrees with its narrow, crooked, and deserted streets, its almost
absolute want of comfort, and destitution of industry. Madrid, which latterly has in-
creased its population at the expence of its neighbours, has laid Toledo greatly under
contribution. The appearance of its mouldering edifices gives it an air of wretched-
ness, ^yith which, however, the interior of its houses does not correspond. One meets
here with neatness in extreme, a property but rarely united to poverty. The inhabi-
tants, above all things, are highly solicitous of excluding the rays of the sun, and con-
trive to have coolness around them in the most violent heat of the Dog days. At this
period, if you pay them a visit, you might deem yourself in the palace of sleep. By
three o'clock, for them, the sun has set ; the casements and blinds are hermetrically
closed, the floors repeatedly sprinkled ; with these, large sheets are spread over their
courts, and every thing concurs to form an illusion, as to the warmth of the climate,
and hour of the day.
It is true, these precautions are common to almost all the towns of Spain in the
height of summer ; but no where have they appeared to me so striking as at Toledo.
Until lately inventions for these indulgencies were almost the only labour to which its
inhabitants were addicted. Within these few years they are roused from the siesta to
which they seemed perpetually condemned. Indolence and misery were successfully
combated by Cardinal Lozenzana, who, for more than twenty years was their arch-
bishop. The Alcazar, ancient palace of the Gothic kings, was almost entirely rebuilt
under Charles V ; but ever since the conflagration, by which it suffered in the begin-
ning of the eighteenth century, it had continued in a ruinous condition. The arch-
bishop put it in repair. He established here silk looms, which afford employment,
to seven hundred poor people ; an hospital for indigent women and old men ; and
formed a school for two hundred children, who arc brought up at his expence, and
taught to draw.
Such is the employment to which this prelate dedicated his superfluity ; and as the
simplicity of his life was truly apostolic, his wants were very circumscribed, and his
superfluity immense. Notwithstanding the precision with which he attended to iiis
spiritual functions, he yet had leisure to devote to literature. Before he occupied the
see of Toledo, he had filled that of Mexico, and discovered there a new collection of
the letters of Fernand Cortes. This he published with notes on his return to Europe.
He has also given to the world several learned works, particulaiiy a new edition of
the Mozarabic Missal. This is a collection of the officers of the church, as celebrated
according to the Mozarabic ritual, adopted by the Christians in the countries occupied
by the Moors. Fallen into disuse, it was revived by cardinal Ximencs, who founded a
chapel at Toledo, in which divine service is still performed conformably to this ritual,
as well as in one of the churches of Salamanca.
BOURCOANVE 3 TUAVEIj IN GTAIX.
;)39
|UC COUll-
le Tagus
pleasing
and the
ind undtr
jciglit.
imperial,
I'rom its
ugdom oi'
cd by its
ts almost
ly has in-
tly under
ivrctehed-
)ne meets
le inhabi-
and con-
At this
eep. By
netrically
>ver their
climate;,
»n in the
t Toledo,
which its
siesta to
cctssfuUy
leir arch-
:ly rebuilt
he begin-
^he arch-
)Ioyment,
len ; and
nee, and
nd as the
, and his
led to his
upied the
lection of
Europe.
:dition of
elebratcd
occupied
funded a
lis ritual,
Madrid and Arangucz fornring part of the diocese of Tok'do, the carrliiiul, archbishop
of this town, frequently appeared at courf, c\ ;.n previous to lus being nominated chief
inquisitor. Madrid notwithstanding is the residence of one of those grand vicars, who
officiiitc for him in his episcopal 1 unctions. Towards the clobc of my first residence in
Spain, I had some relation with this worthy acolytli of the prekite L«jrenzana, the details
and residt of which, in abridgement, the reader will pardon my prcsenring, as they concur
to prove, that fanaticism, and particularly intolcriinee, are evils ;i')t altogctlier so hopeless
of cure in Spain as is" commonly believed ; and that in modrrn times even the clergy of
this kingdom produce individuals accessible to reason, and capable of compussion for
the weaknesses of humanity.
The agent of a foreign power, obliged by the laws of his country to profess the pro
testant religion, was captivated by an amiable Castilian. An obstacle of magnitude
opposed their union in the invincible repugnance of the cadiolic family to an allianci^
with an heretic. The father himself comes to Madrid in order to snatch his daughter
from the danger of seduction, and drags her in tears to a distance of thirty leagues from
the capital. The lover follows his steps, throws himself at his feet, and moves him to
compassion, but cannot shake him from his purpose. It is impossible, says the
father, it is impossible 1 should give my daughter to a person the enemy of God, and of
my religion ; but be converted, you shall marry her. The young heretic, however,
entreated at least the permission of pleading his cause before tlie tribunal of the
church ; hoping to find it less inexorable than that to v/hich he had appealed in
vain. The rigid Castilian approved the expedient, without, however, reckoning upon
its success.
The stranger bears a gleam of hope away with him to Madrid. He seeks the grand
vicar of the archbishop of Toledo., and thus addresses him :
" You see before you an unfortunate man, whom it is in your power to restore to hap-
piness. I doat on Donna N — , whom I wish to marry ; between us I am told there
is an insurmountable obstacle. I was born without the bosom of the Romish church.
It were vain of you to exhort me to abjure my errors, nor could you be convinced of
the truth of so sudden a conversion. And would that religion you profess, receive any
glory from a similar homage ? Leave to time, leave to the irresistible ascendancy of
Donna N — , the office of bringing me into what you deem, what I perhaps some day
may deem, the way of salvation. The honourable employment which I fill is my only
means of subsistence. This employment is incompatible with a change of religion. If
I fail of obtaining the hand of Donna N — , I shall die of despair ; if I cannot obtain her
upon any other terms than those of renouncing my faith and consequently my employ,
ment, both she and I must die of want. You only, the minister of a God of peace and
goodness, you only can conciliate all ; and surely as you have this power, you will not
refuse my entreaty."
These arguments softened the austerity of die grand vicar. First of all, said he, I must
have assurance that you are free to marry : how will you convince me ? Next I must
have proof that in your country, the protestant religion is so far national as to exclude
the professors of a different one from holding employment, and lastly I must be satisfied
by attestation, that you are not far estranged from the cadiolic church ; and that you
only require time, the influence of your future spouse, and the instructions of our min-
isters, to consummate your conversion.
Upon this, the young stranger looks upon himself as secure of success. Easily can
I give you these three assurances; but it must remain with you to appoint the organs
through which you will receive them. Let them be two public characters, in whom
3 z 2
J
540
BOUlUiOANNl. S iKAVtLu lU liPAlN.
you can conlitle, and who may he worthy of our conrulcncc. He names the charge des
aftaircs of France and that of the United States. They are accepted, and wc invited
to the grand vicar's. He received us, one after the odier, and proposed the three ques-
tions, to which we answer in the aflirmativc. We sign this kind of act of pubhc noto-
riety, which removes all the scruples of the grand vicar, the archbishop, and the ortho-
dox family. Tl»c two lovers arc united at the catholic altar, without cither being
obliged to abjure a creed. They remained faithful to their vow, as well as to the
religion of their fathers ; greatly intent upon promoting the happiness, and very little
about the conversion of each other. If the reading of these lines should chance to
occupy a leisure moment in this happy family ; upon recital of his alarms, his dan-
cers, his success, the triumph of love over intolerance, obtained by the interference of
friendship ; perhaps the husband, the father, and the friend, may moisten the page with
a tear.
Such was the prelate of Toledo and his principal dependants twelve years ago, and
such are they at present. In this instance, they exhibited the first proof of toleration
of this description in Spain. Shortly after, another couple precisely in the same situa-
tion, availed themse'iVes of tliis precedent to obtain a similar result.
There are other cas'.s much less rare than those which we have just cited, in which
the grand vicar is called upon to interfere in a way much less edifying to manners. I
allude to the custom known in the country by the denomination of sacar por el vicario,
literally, to redeem through the vicar. Any girl above twelve years of age may oblige a
youth, provided he be fourteen years old, to marry her, if she can prove that he has an-
ticipated the marriage ri'.es, has promised his hand, or in any shape given her to under-
stand that a union w. .cr was his intention. Her proofs are exhibited before the vicar.
If she affirm the youth has had commerce with her and he agree to the charge, he cannot
escape matrimony. If he denies it, the proof remains with her ; and all that is necessary
is for her to produce a neighbour to testify having seen him enter her house at any im-
proper hour. A ring, a jewel, a present, even a love-letter, notwithstanding the word
marriage may not appear therein, is proof sufficient for claiming a husband.
The intention of such laws is not easily conceived. Does it proceed from a desire of
putting young men on their guard, even in the most tender age, against the seductions
of the fair ? Or have the civil and ecclesiastical authorities united in the design of in-
creasing the number of marriages at the hazard of making many that are bad ?
However it may be, upon the plaintift' addressing herself to the vicar, the culprit is
tionducted to prison, where he remiuns pending the suit. If the sentence be, there is
cause for a wedding, the prisoner is not liberated until after the celebration of the sacra-
ment of marriage. Frequently the desire of obtaining one description of liberty causes
him to sacrifice another ; but it may readily be conceived that fetters thus put on will
not be cherished long.
There is another manner of employing the ministry of the ecclesiastical vicar, not less
revolting to manners, but no ways so to love. Should a man become enamoured with
a female under paternal restraint, who may return his passion and be unable to obtain
consent of the father ; he applies to the vicar, communicates their mutual inclination,
and points out the house in which he wishes the object of his affection to be received,
preparatory to the celebration of their nuptials. After ascertaining that their affection is
mutual, the vicar sends a commissary to withdraw the female from her father's roof, and
conduct her to the place indicated by the lover, and when the case is thwoughly approv-
ed, it is thence she is brought to receive the nuptial benediction.
flOUIlGOAMNK S TUAVELS IN SPAX.V.
541
irge ties
invited
cc qucs-
ic noto-
c ortho-
r being
s to the
rj little
lancc to
lis dan.
•ence of
ge with
igo, and
Dleration
le situa-
n which
ners. I
vicario,
oblige a
: has an.
o under-
he vicar.
e cannot
leccssary
any im.
the word
desire of
ductions
gn of in-
:ulprit is
there is
lie sacra-
:y causes
t on will
, not less
red with
to obtain
:lination,
•eceived,
ection is'
roof, and
r approvo
Such in general throughout the Spanish monarchy is the ecclesiastical law in the in«
stance of marriage; but in practice, the greater or less rigour with which these regula-
tions are put in force depends much on the prudence and judgment of the minister of
the church ; and latterly laws have been enacted which, restoring to paternal authority a
part of its influence over the disposal of childrL'n, have had for object the prevention of
the scandal which is customarily attached to marriages contracted without that respecta-
ble concurrence.
But let us return to Toledo, from which digressions have led us somewhat astray. Its
cathedral is one of the most valuable sacred edifices in Europe. Duriiig four hundred
years it was consecrated to Mahometan worship, recovered by Alphonso VI, it preserved
the form of a moscjue until the reign of St. Ferdinand, who gave it that under which it
now appears. It displays all the sumjjtuousness of Gothic edifices, and in the reigns
succeeding that of St. Ferdinand was enriched with every kind of decoration. Several
of the chapels are worthy of attention for the tombs they contain. In the choir there arc
those of four kings of Castile, who are commonly called reyes viejos, old kings, and that
of the cardinal ^lendoza, one of the most illustrious prelates who have held tlic see of
Toledo.
In the chapel of the Virgin, cardinal Portocarrero is interred. Tiie epitaph on his
tomb is of a striking simplicity : Hie jacet pulvis, cines, et nihil ; " Here lies dust, ashes,
nothing."
In the chapel of St. James one pauses, irresistibly fixed before the tomb of Don Alvar
de Luna, that illustrious and unfortunate favourite, abandoned to his fate on the scaffold
bv John II, whose blind partiality had raised him to the pinnacle of grandeur If we
give but common attention to the pompous inscriptions with which this magnificent
tomb and tl^it of his wife are covered, one cannot refrain from philosophical reflections
on the instability of the favour of kings.
The same chapel contains several other tombs deserving notice ; I shall mention none
but that of the ten kings or queens ot Castile, which are in the chapel called delos reyes
nuevos, the most magnificently decorated of all.
The capitulary hall contains the portraits in succession of all the archbishops of To-
ledo; a valuable collection on accoiuit of their portraits, dating from the revival of the
art of painting in Spain the difterent gradations through which it has passed, being clearly
distinguishable on comparison ; and because since the time of cardinal Ximenes they
have all the merit of resemblance.
In the cathedral are several other paintings worthy of attention. The vestry contains,
among others, one by Carlo Maratti, and one by Dominico Greco. The ceiling is
painted in fresco, by Luca Giordano.
The cloister of the cathedral contains a painting by an author who deserves to be bet-
ter known. Bias de Prado. The most indifferent connoisseur cannot but be struck by
the correctness of the drawing, the excellence of the colouring, and especially the soft-
ness of expression in the figures.
The cloister of the cathedral is spacious, and its proportions just. Bayeux and Ma-
dia, the two best painters of modern Spain, have traced on its walls the principal events
of the life of St. Eugenius and St. Leocadia, the patrons of the cathedral, and of some
other saints, famous at Toledo by their zeal for the christian religion.
I might give a long enumeration of the ornaments, furniture and vases consecrated
to divine service in this cathedral ; a sufficient idea may be formed of them by consider-
ing that Toledo is one of the richest sees in Christendom, that it has frequently been held
by pious prelates, who would have thought it a reprcach on themselves had they made
542
HOUUCOANNE*S TRAVELS IN SFAIN.
!» profane use of their opulence, and that it has had many opportunities to benefit by the
munificence of the sovereigns of Spain. To the curious is shewn a piece of sculpture,
in the very worst taste, and for what reason 1 know not, called the Transparent. It is
u modern work, which disfigures instead of enibellishinfjj the edifice. There, who will
may admire a stone; which bears the impression of the feet of the llf)ly Virgin ; she
placed them upon it when she descended from heaven to brin^j to St. Ildefonso the first
chazuble or priest's cap ; a n»iracle which a modern sculptor has perpetuated in one of
the chapels of the cathedral. The stone which bears the proof of the n)iracle, is exposed
to public view behind an iron railing, which prevents profanation without being un ob-
stacle to homage.
Besides the cathedral, Toledo has five-;u\d-twenty churches and a heap of convents
and pious institutions; several of which merit the attention of the traveller. The hos-
pital of St. John the Baptist in particular, which, by the excellence of its proportions and
the wisdom of the plan, do<.s honour to the good taste of the founder cardinal Tavera,
who has there a magnificent tomb; the work of Alfonso Bcrruguete, an able sculptor, of
the school of Michael Angelo.
Toledo owes also to one of its i)relates (cardinal Mendoza) its very handsome
foundling hospital, the church of which contains six great paintings of the school of
Rubens.
Another asylum for sufTering humanity is an hospital for the insane. There are two
principal ones in Spain ; one at Saragossa, the other at Toledo. I went several times to
th(' latter, and was always surprised at the cleaimess and regularity which I constantly
found there ; and, rettcciing on several similar institutions kept in the same manner, I
could not but admire how different this devotion, this Christian charity, which in our
days is thought to be treated with mildness when only loaded with ridicule, how different,
I say, it renders men from themseb es, how powerfully w ithdraws them from their most
habitual vices ! On examining the charitable foundations of the Spaniards, the indolence
and dirtiness with which they are charged are no longer seen. Had religion conferred
but this one benefit upon mankind, it would still be worthy of admiration.
At Toledo there yet remains the wreck of the famous machine, invented by a Cremo-
nian of the name of Juanelo, to raise '.iie water of the Tagus into Toledo ; and which for
its ingenuity is worthy attention. Near the ruins of this machine there are others more
ancient ; part of an aqueduct erected to convey, on a level with the Alcazar, the water
from a spring seven or eight leagues from Toledo. This is one of those works equally
useful and magnificent by which the Romans marked their residence in several places in
Spain. On the outside of the city as well, the ruins of a circus are visible, and the traces
of an old Roman road.
Thus the Romans, the Arabians, the Goths, and the Spaniards of the time of Charles
V, by turns improved and embellished Toledo. I cannot say as much for the modern
Spaniards. Houses out of repair, fine edifices going to ruin, few or no manufactures, a
population reduced from two hundred thousand to twenty-five thousand persons, and
the most barren environs ; such is the picture which presents itself to the traveller,
attracted by the reputation of that famous city. Under the last reign, in addition to
the attempts of its prelate to naturalize industry, some successful efforts were made
to recover it from the universal decay into which it had fallen. The blades of Toledo
were formerly famous for their temper and solidity. Charles HI, erected a very spa-
cious edifice for making them ; and the experiments already made seem to projrise
that the modern citizens of Toledo will not in this respect be long inferior to their
predecessors.
BOL'n(;OANNt. 8 THAVEIS IN Sl'AlN.
.Vl.'i
riic inliabitimts of this city would scarcely pardoimic, were I topash uvcr in silence
their Cij^arrales. These are little country houses, uhicli I can compare to nothinj^ they
resemble more than the Hastides which surroinid the tit} of Marseilles, e.\cei)t that they
are less ornamented, and not so mmierous. Thither in the arternoon, dnrinp^ the suflo-
eating heat of the dojj-days, the inhabitants fj;o in search of coolness and repose amid the
shade of orchards. It is nevertheless im|>ossibIe to reach them without exciting the
sweat of the brow, in crossing some burnt and unshaded meadow, or climbing over
rugged hills. They are however the garden of I'klen to the inhabitants of Toledo.
1 now pass on to other objects uhich, in the environs of, or at a short distance from,
the capital, are worthy the attention of the traveller.
At the Casa del campo, an ancient pleasure-house of the kings of Spain, only separated
from the new palace by the Mancanares, he will n\eet with large trees, some good
paintings, and an equestrian statue of Philip III.
Villa Viciosa, three great leagues from Madrid, is another royal palace to which Fer-
dinand VI, was attached, but which has not been freciuentcd by his successors.
San Fernando is a village three leagues from Madrid, for some time celebrated on
account of a manufacture of cloths established there. This has been removed to Gua-
dalaxara, but the cloths still preserve their former name. The building in which was
carried on the manufactorj' of San Fernando, formerly animated by industry, is now
filled with the impure voices of such wretched prostitutes, as the jjolice of ^iadrid dc-
livers from vice to condign penitence. Formerly the Abbeville of Spain, it is now to
Madrid what the Saltpetnere is to Paris.
At nearly the same distance from Madrid is a little village less known, but which ap-
peared to me to merit attention ; it is called Loeches. Here are buried some master-
pieces of which the Spaniards themsehes are ignorant. The church of a small convent
of nuns, founded by the conde duca D'Olivares, contains six capital paintings by Rubens,
of the largest size and of magical efltct. The principal is an allegorical painting of the
triumph of religion ; it is over the great altar, and unites all the beauties, and even
defects, which characterise its author ; richness of composition, brilliant colouring,
strength of expression, and negligence of design. After this painting, I was most
struck with that in which Elias is represented standing in the desert, at the moment
when an angel appears to comfort him.
Another object of curiosity, perhaps still more unknown to the Spaniards themselves,
is found in the bosom of the mountains of Castile, four or five leagues from the Es-
curial : this is a monument which has caused much perplexity to some antiquarians,
and which they know by the name of Toros de Guisando. Guisando is a convent of
Hieronymites, placed upon the side of a chain of steep rocks, where, according to
tradition, the sons of Pompey were defeated by the party of Caesar, and where the
conquerors, to celebrate their triumph, sacrificed to the gods an hundred bulls, and
left the figures of four in stone on the place where they obtained their victory. Ano-
ther tradition asserts *hese supposed bulls are elephants, and says, that instead of the
triumph of the Romans, they were intended to preserve the memory of the passage of
the Carthaginians into the country, who, indeed, have left in several parts of Spain
some rude figures of these animals. But, did they most resemble bulls or elephants ?
This was a question, which in company with three foreigners, as curious as myself, I
attempted to decide. We found, in an enclosure of vines, overlooked by the convent
of Guisando, four enormous blocks of hard stone, resembling granite ; they appeared
to me so unshapen, that I was inclined to take them for the sportive productions of
nature, rather than the regular works of art. On examining them nearer, we dis-
I
!
.;
544
nOl'itCOANN E ^ IKWILS IS SI'AI.V.
covered, or rather guessed, tlic intention ol tlic sculptor, but the eflbrts of his chisscl
have ahnost disuppi arcd hencath tlie ravage of tiuic : \vc found no signs, either of thi-
horns of a bull, or the trunk of an elepliant. 'I'he form of the ears rather indicate
the latter than the former animal ; the coniours of the rump and flanks arc so mueh
worn out of .shape, that it is diflii ult to decide between the two. In short, after an
hour's observation 1 left the difliculty as I found it. Wc were almost ashamed of our
fruitless j()inne\ ; and painfully elinibed up to ihe monaster}', whence wc looked down
upon this hieroglyphical monument. We found that there existed no doubt of the
manner in which it ou^rht to be interpreted. The first tradition is preserved upon a
board, on which we read distinctly, the Latin inscription cut in the sides of one of the
blocks, but which arc now almost efiaccd. The principal inscription is as follows:
Belluni Ciesaris el I'atria; ex magna parte coufectum fuit ; S. et Cn. Pompeii filiishic
in agro li.isteiano proHifjatis. And another, Kxercitus victor hostibus effusis. They
bufliciently indicate that the monuments were designed to celebrate u victory over the
sons of I'ompcy. It remains to be determined, whether the ground upon which tlicy
arc placid be the Agrum Uastetanum ; and to reconcile the In pothesis with history,
which places the defeat of Pompey's party in Andalusia.
The worthy monks, jealous of the renown of their district, found an answer to all
my olijeetions, and that nothing might be wanting to my belief, they shewed inc the
caverns in which the sons of i'omj)cy found their death in seeking an asylum after their
defeat. Immediately afterwards they informed me, that these asylums of the martyrs
to liberty had fourteen hundred years later become those of the martyrs of penitence ;
and we were obliged to hear the recital of the retreat of the founders of their order,
to the caverns, the detail of their austerities ; the monks at the same time pointing out
the traces of their steps.
The Torosde Guisando, wliich many people at Madrid think imaginar}', arc frequent-
ly introduced into familiar conversation, to express, in a burlesque manner, the courage
of a man capable of facing the greatest dangers ; and in this sense, they are used by one
of the heroes of Cervantes. When after my return, I said I had seen anc' touched these
famous bulls, I was looked uj)on as an extraordinary person. The wonder, however,
ceased when I had described the enemy whom I had so resolutely brnved.
Another district, farther from Madrid, makes a still greater figure than the Toros do
Guisando, in the fabulous history of SpaJn ; I mean the district of Battuecas, to which
Montesquieu alludes in his Persian Letters, when he says, the Spaniards have in their
kingdom districts unknown to themselves. According to ancient tradition, the reli-
gion, language and manners of Spain were unknown in the Battuecas. Extraordi-
nary voices had been heard there from the neighbouring villages ; the shepherds were
afraid to approach it with their flocks. Was more necessary to stamp it as the retreat
of daemons or at least of savages ? Each related in his own manner the origin and parti-
cularities of the place. The Battuecas also furnished a subject for the was of Spain ;
they introduced them into comedies and novels ; and Moreri did not disdain to give to
these ridiculous stories a place in his dictionary.
Father Feijoo, an extremely well informed and intelligent monk, was one of the
first who successfully combated these absurdities. The result of his researches, and
the little tour I made to the Battuecas a short time before my departure from Spain is,
that they are two uncultivated vallits, scarcely a league in length, and so narrow and
closely shut in, that it is difficult for the sun to enter them in winter. This little district
is remarkable for groups of rocks oddly formed, for variety of trees, the meandering
flOURGOA.NNE Ji TAAVk.LS IN SPAIN.
J4,
of the little river which waters the vallies, therxcavotioiis ofthc inotiiii.iiiis !>) uhith they
arc formed, aiul the great numbers of all kinds of nnimals to which tiu y serve as a retreat.
The only luimaii habitation, which merits attention, is the convent of the bare-fooled
Carmelites, whose cells are buried as it were under the ilcep roeks, by which they arc
threatened, and the trees that f;\\c them shade. A travellt r niiirUl make the tour of
Europe, and not fuul a place more fit to become the asjhim of >-i!cnce and peace.
The district, 'which is almost ii\acccssible, and n()t upon the ro.id to any city, is scare* ly
ever frtcjuented. The curious few who go thither, are look(d upon as persons f)f ex-
travagant curiosity by the peaceful inhabitants, who cannot imagine the motive of their
visit. Their little district, which they seldom or never leave, is in the diocese of Curia,
eight leagues from Cividad Hodrigo, and fourteen frf)m Salamanca.
Avila and Alcala arc two other towns in the nighbourhood of Madrid which a tra
velleris temi)ted to visit, on account of their ancient fa'Mc.
Avila is situated on a hill twenty leagues from the capital. Its massy walls, its towers,
its alcazar, and the dome of its old cathedral, afford rather an imposing appearance at a
distance. But it is impossible to exaggerate its wretchedness and depopulation. The;
desertion of a number of territorial noblenjen who are gone to settle eslewhcre, and
have left their lands to the management of dicirbailift's, is the principal cause of this de-
cay. Inthe beginning of the present century it had a manufactory of cloth, which did
not succeed, and which the council of Castile in vain endeavoured to rc-instatc. How-
ever in 1789, two Knglishmeti, skilled in the manulacture of cotton, were enticed to
Spain. They would have preferred Oallieia or Catalonia, in order to be nearer the
sea; but government was desirous of having them in the neighbourhood of the court,
and consequently fixed them at Avila, in an edifice oocupietl some years before as a mi-
litary school. At first the inhabitants were greatly preposse:ised against them, and threat-
ened to stone them. Priests had implanted in the minds of these people a belief that
these heretics fed on Catholic children. Those in consecjuencc who did not persecute
yet shunned them. The peasantry of the neighbourhood ^vent round about to some
distance in order to avoid passing by their house. By degrees these prejudices vanished.
The inhabitants began to be reconciled to the sight of them, and soon they caused abun-
dance to renew its benefits in the district. In 1792 more than seven hundred persons
were employed in their manufactory and its dependencies ; and already not a beggar
was te be met with in Avila. I saw these two persons introduced to the king at
Aranjucz. The reception which they met with sufficiently made amends for the paltry
persecutions of fanaticism and ignorance to which they had been subjected. How much
are those governments to be pitied who, on introducing useful enterprises, have to
combat enemies of this description ! At a distance we are too much apt to judge from
consequences, and do not pay sufficient attention to obstacles ; whence proceeds a seve-
rity of decision which frequently borders on injustice.*
Alcala maintains its reputation better than Avila. The six leagues which separate it
from Madrid are rather pleasant to travel over ; after the first you arrive at the village
of Canillejos, surrounded by orchards and gardens ; a real phenomenon in the neigh-
bourhood of Madrid. A league beyond you cross the Hcnaris over a fine stone bridge,
leaving Leganis on the right, one of the quarters of the regiment of Walloon guards, with
Vecalvaro, where is constantly a detachment of the Spanish guards, and San Fernando.
* These manufactories of Avila have changed their masters, and gained nothing by the change.
The direction of them has been given to the skilful mechanist ndancourt, whose active mind embraces
too many objects to enable him to pay sufficient attention to the minutiae of a manufactory. This
establishment, which in its infancy promised largely, has almost dwindled to nothing.
VOL. V. 4 A
\\
,1
i
540
HOUHtH)\HHIL U lltAVLLa IN bl'AIN.
On llic other side of ll\c Hcnari?*, a bcniitirul slope hof^inH ; ymi pca-ivc the town ol
Torrcjon, lieyoiicl which is another stone bridge over'the Tojote, a hmall river which in
ftummer is hut a streandet. A little Ik'Iow it falls into the Hcnarin, which flows at the
back of Altala, between rugjjfcd and picturesque banks, suiHciently well shaded with
trees.
The llenaris, whence Alcala derives its surname, runs at some distance from the town
at the lout of a chain of hills piled one above another. Alcala is still surrounded by
walls. It is disproportionately lonjj for its I )readlh, tolerably well built, and clean; and
notwithstanding^ it contains many churches and convents, and has no other employment
for its inhabitants than that of cultivating most excellent fields for wheat, it does not
disgust one, like many of the other towns of Castile, by a shocking display of misery.
But that its university had for its founder the famous cardinal Ximenes, it scarcely de-
serves mention. For the purpose of employing them on an edition of the celebrated
Bible, known to theologians by the title of Biblia C'omplutensis, he caused several really
learned men to establish themselves here, who have been succeeded up to our time by
none but pendants.
CHAPTF.R II.
ROAD rilOM MADUIlt TU S\nAUO!)»A. or AHHAOON AND ITS roaXEH.
ROAD TO LKIUDA.
rrti NEW CAMAL.
ALCALA is on the road liim Madrid to Saragossa, a considerable town, which I
visited in 1792, in order to have a view of the canal of Arragon, of which such won-
derful things had been told me. I shall conduct mv readers thither, and give them an
account of this canal, and the province it is intendetl to vivify.
Four'eagucs beyond Alcala you reach the interesting town of Gnadalaxara, situated
on an eminence a short distance beyond the Henaris. A fine road afterwards leads to
the miserable village of Torrija ; thence to Granjancjos, the soil is stony and poor, and
I he road in the rainy season rather bad. From the top of the hill on which this town
is placed, 3'ou descend abruptly into a small and very narrow valley, of highly pleasing
appearance and cultivated like a garden. It afl'ords the most picturesque prospect of all
the road. But beyond Cirajanejos you travel over a country mournful and bare, until
>ou reach Bujarraval, a poor village surrounded by rocks, two leagues from Siguenza.
It is still worae before vou reach by a rapid and stony descent the bottom of a basin, in
^\ hich Fuencaliente is situated, on the borders of a streamlet. This is a village belonging
to the dntchy of Medina Celi, the principal spot of which fronts you on the brow of the
<ircular hills which form the basin. There, some pretty houses, verdure, and planta-
tions of flax, extended the whole length of the valley, agreeably strike the eye. The
traveller is afterwards continually delighted with meadows covered with cattle, and
liolds in high cultivation, as far as the hamlet of Londarcs, after which you meet at a
league beyond with a row village built by the bishop of Siguenza. Thus we see that
prelates in Spain are e\ r the chief benefactors of their district. A little farther at the
summit of a mountain is an old castle, worthy of the best feudal times. Formerly it was
doubtless a military station, at present it is a peaceful appurtenance to the bishopric of
Siguenza.
From Londaristo Arcos the road is vexatiously full of rises and falls, is very b'lv, .nd
traverses a horrid country, to the north-east extremity of New Castile. Arcos >7 it rrii-
serable but pleasantly situated borough ; it is the last in this province, and :nc of the
thirteen belonging to the duke of Medina Celi in this canton. For three leafeofu the
distance which separates it from Montreal, another wretched borough, the first :ia Aira-
HounooAVNE's Tn/vvi:r.3 in spain.
it7
|l<' lOU'M of
uliich ill
us at the
(led with
the town
MuIcd by
can ; and
ploymcnt
docsj not
■ misery,
irccly de-
xlcljratcd
cral really
time by
ANAL.
whicli 1
jch won-
them an
situated
leads to
•oor, and
his town
pleasing
cct of nil
ire, until
iguenza.
basin, in
clonging
w of the
i planta*
e. The
ttle, and
lect at a
see that
T at the
ly it was
opric of
rU, c.nd
v/;i riii.
e of the
iOfi) the
hi Area-
gon, till- country \n equally hideous, and the roiids ojually bad. I'lic cntrumc into
Ilucrta, however, claimn as an exception a vill.igc belonging to a mrxiastcr)' of Hernar
dines, who spread comfoi I aroinul inem, a ciiilun: which docs them credit, and sIuuIcm
a striking ditierencc noticeable in Spain between the possessions of the ckrgy md tho»(
of the richest among the laity, but which is CNolained by the constant residence of iht
one, and the perpetual absence of the other. 'I'liis monat;tery, besides, contaiiw soim
remarkable tombs, among olhers those of several French i"_,ijlemen who came with tlu
constable du Guesclin to the suee(jur (jf Ileniy de Translamari . Should the traveller In
desirous of spending a few hours in examining these curiosities, he will have reason to
be satisfied with his reception by the monks ; and will find at ilitir tabic a conipensation
for the destitute state of the district.
Montreal belongs to the house of Arl/..', whose chief grounds arc about a league be
yond. The ancient castle pertaining t- » this house is on an emineiiee, at the fcjot of which
is a pretty modern dwelling. The river Xalon, whiiJj wc sliall repeatedly meet uilli,
runs close to it, and embellishes and enlivens this little canton. It forms a eascadl^ and
has a bridge over it of a veiy pretty fancy. The whole of this land;>cape might advan
tageously employ the pencil of the travt Her.
On leaving iMontreal you meet with a rapid descint, after passing which the road is
constantly good to C'etina. I'Voni this \i!la^;e to liubierca is two lea^fues of cHcellcnt
road, between two ranges of hills ; at the foot of that on the right the Xalon waters the
valley, which is in a high state of culture. Half way this river is crossed over a bridgr
of stone, and you travel along its banks to Bubierca, a village most charmingly situated
between the hills in the midst of rocks.
Thence to Calatayud, you change horses once at Ateca, a village surround((l by or
chards amazingly fruitful. I advise the travelkr who may pass through Atec.t to lay in
provision of a wine called Cerinana, of a partridge-t yc colour, its sweet and agreeable
flavour will make amends for the dark-coloured thick wine which will be presented him
in this part of Arragon, as far as to Saragossa, at which the stontach revolts, and which
is certamly the most horrid beverage that ever poisoned man.
On leaving Atcca the valley becomes more narrow, but continues beautiful and fertile .
it is watered by the Xalon, the course of which between the hills follows their sinuosi-
ties. Througnout all Spain I never met with a more pleasing district, none better cul-
tivatcd than this vale from Cetina almost uninterruptedly to Calatayud. Trenches arc cut
communicating by a very simple process with the Xalon, which conduct its beneficent
waters to all .the grounds in its neighbourhood. Ir. is not in this charming valley that a
traveller must seek for the indolence and imskilfulncss of Spaniards.
Haifa league before ^ou reach Calatayud a chain of rocks begin, piled one upon the
other, and terminating m peaks, which rather disfigure the beautiful landscape. This
town itself is in measure mcrusted with them, the greater part being built at their foot,
and commanding towards the south a valley which spreads corsidcrably near the town.
The produce of this rich valley consists of corn, wine, pulse, and an abundance of
hemp; of which a great quantity is sent into Old Castile, but much more to Bilboaand
St. Sebastian. The cordage made of this hemp is used in the royal navy ; and govern-
ment employs commissaries of late years at Calatayud for the purpose of making pur-
chases.
There is no oil made in this neighbourhood : however, at Calatayud there are twelve
or thirteen soap manufactories ; the barilla employed in which is brought from the east,
cm part of Arragon. There is a large demand for thi; soap throughout Castile.
4 a2
I'.
n.i
— «**
11
u
548
aor^ooA.vKE's travel: is jpain.
, Calatayud is still not by much so considerable a tounas it used to be. It scarcely
contains fifteen hundred houses ; but in rccompencc it includes ten churches und fiftceri
convents, some of which arc remarkable for their ma^ificence, and the extent of ground
they arc built upon. Culataynd and Tarraconn have a bishop in common, who resides
at the latter of these towns. The former is contigtious to the spot where Bilbilis was
situated, the birth-phice of Mar/ial.
Hull' a league before it arrives a; Calatayud the Xilon receives the Xitosa, which there
loses itr> name, although Lopez, the first geographer in modern Spain, makes it retain it
till it disembogues itself into the Ebro. I have thought myself justified in following
the opinion of the inhabitants, and the statement of the abbe Pons.
The count!-) is extremely uneven from Calatayud to the gates of Fresno, atovvn situ-
ated in a smiling well cultivated valley. After passing over some hills, the borough of
Almudia laj s Ixforc you, surrounded for a distance from its walls by olive-trees, vine-
yards, fig-trees, and plantations of hemp and Indian corn. Part of the estates of M.
d'Aranda lay in this delightful country-. It extends to more than a great league from
Almudia ; afterwards, however, you meet with nothing but heath and the most barren
countrj- until you come to the miserable Venta de hi Romera, and even to the neigh-
bourhfX)d of Saragossa.
At half a league beyond the last place but one for changing horses (La Muela) this
celebrated town is distinguished in the midst of a beautiful and extensive plain on the
banks of the Ebro.
I shall not enumerate the many sacred edifices contained in Saragossa. The most
remarkable are its two cathedrals. The one is the church of La Seu, of most majestic
simplicity ; the other, so famous in Spain, and even throughout the w^hole Catholic
world, and to the description of which cardinal de Retz did not disdain to dedicate se-
veral pages of hii memoirs, is that of Nuestra Senora del Pilar. It is a spacious and
sombre structure, overloaded with ornament, without taste, notwithstanding it was re-
built at the close of the last century. But the miraculous image, around which there no
longer remains a single ex voto, nor one of the rich lamps of which the cardinal speaks,
is in a modem chapel, formed with superb columns of marble of the Corinthian order.
Arragoncse devotion owed a homage of no less magnificence to that pious tradition,
which states the Holy Virgin to have appeared to St. James, in order to designate her
Measure to have her image placed in a temple on this bank of the Ebro.
The vaults of the part of this church which has been rebuilt have recently been paint-
ed in fresco by the two brothers Bayeu and Don Francisco Goya, all three natives of
Saragossa.
In order to trace an additional feature in the history of human stupidity, you must
descend into a cell of the church of Santa Engracia. There lay the ashes of a crowd of
martyrs sacrificed by persecuting emperors. Lamps of silver are kept burning night
and day in honour of them ; but the smoke which proceeds from them does not soil.
To prove this to the curious, the ceiling is pointed out, which, notwithstanding it be
low, is perfectly free from smoke. Such as still have doubts are recommended to hold
paper over the lamps. I made this experiment, and must confess that I saw or fancied
the paper was not blackened. If I had had any doubts I should have been careful of
expressing them before these tolerant exhibitors of this miracle. I felt much inclined,
however, to accost them in these terms : What, shall the Almighty disdain to work a
miracle in order to clear the sight of those ministers who oppose the French revolution,
which by its recoil from the obstacles raised against it may occasion the overthrow of all
boCaOOA.V.XE S TRAVELS I.V 3PAI.V.
ty
It scarctly
»nd fifteen
of ground
■ho rtrsides
3ilbilis was
vhich there
s it atain it
following
o
to\vn situ-
)orough of
rees, vine-
ates of M.
;ague from
lost barren
the neigh.
fuela) this
a in on the
The most
it majestic
le Catholic
edicatc se-
^cious and
it was re.
:h there no
nai speaks,
bian order.
i tradition,
ignate her
•een paint-
natives of
^ou must
crowd of
ing night
i not soil,
ling it be
d to hold
)r fancied
careful of
inclined,
o work a
volution,
ow of all
Europe ; and yet, according to you, be disposed to effect an incessant mirack in this
obscure cavern, a miracle too as useless in itself as your existence ?
I shall more willingly direct the attention of my readers to the new Casa do la Miscrc-
cordia, the building of v, hich, adj /ming to that of the old one, was completed in 1792,
and which d(Ks no less honour to the inttllip^ence than to the patriotism of Don Ramon
Pignatelli. Destitute young people of both sexes here meet with occupation and main-
tenance. They separate silk, spin and comb wool, which is for this country a valuable
production. They manufacture some coarse woollen cloths, camlets, and silk. Out of
seven hundred persons contained in this edifice, half arc employed by people in t!ic
town; for its wise fnmdcr (lost some years ago to Arragon and Spain) was persuaded,
that without this expedient such charitable institutions would do more harm than be-
nefit to industrv. There are besides s.veral manufactories which furnish rej^iments with
clothing.
Saragossa possesses an academy of fine arts, an insignificant university, and a patriotic
society. It encourages all branches of industrj , particularly plantations of trees. It
has established schools of commerce and matliematics. Don ^Iartin Goyecochea, one
of its memljcrs, even established a few vears back a school for desii^n at his own indivi-
dual expence. In one word, Saragossa is visibly recovering from its long stupor, ojid
is rendering itself worthy of being the capital of the beautiful kingdom of Arragon.
This kingdom was formerly much better peopled than at present. A v.ist number of
its towns and villages have disappeared. Its jjopulation is reduced to 614,«000 persons,
of which Saragossa' contains 42,600. Arragon has figured with glory in the histor}' of
free goveniraents.* Notwithstanding the crown was hcreditar}-, each new kmg was
obliged to have his title confirmed by the states, and was rot initiated to the sovereignty
before he had sworn to maintain their rights. As a counterpoise to the authority of the
sovereign, they established a magistrate called Justicia mayor, who was accountable for
his conduct to none but the states. At the inauguration of the king, this magistrate
remained seated with his hat on upon a high tribunal. The king appeared before him
uncovered, and took oath, kneeling, to govern j.ccording to law. It was at this instant
that the proclamation, so much cited formerly, was made : Nos que valemos tanio como
vos, OS hacemos nuestro rey senor con tal que guardeis nuestros, fueros y libertades ;
sino no.
The admiration which this imposing ceremony is calculated to inspire, is somewhat
weakened upon learning that it was less before the people, or its representatives, than an
assembly of notables (ricos hombres) whose property was purchased with the sword, that
the king thus humbled himself. At first no more than twelve of the ancient families
were admitted to the ceremony. By degrees the number was increased, and divided into
high and inferior nobility. Among the states the clergy was represented by prelates,
and considerable towns sent deputies. But labourers, arti::mns, merchants, these were
excluded from the rank of citizens ; so that the people was very incompletely represent-
ed. This unshapen assembly of tlie three orders made laws for the nation. The J*i;^
ticia mayor was the chief restraint upon usurpation, whether on the part of the Cortes of
Arragon, or that of the king. At length the prelates became devoted to the monarch ;
the deputies of the towns were not proof against bribery ; the king thus by increasing
the number of hb par:iss<ns among these two orders, kept the nobility in curb, and be-
came such as he is at the present day, an absolute monarch. Nevertheless there still
exists a shadow of the Cortes of Arragon. In 1792 Philip V, in a moment of dis-
tress, caused them to be assembled, as well as those of Catalonia, which had not met
together for two centuries. Tlie young queen, in the absence of the king, presided over
* S«e a work by Adams od American Constitutions.
f
I
55U
aOl'Rt.O.KSSE S TU'VVELS IN Sl'AIV.
iIk Cortc.->ui Anagoii. She fouiul ihcin liitli; iiiulincd to satisfy her rcr|ucsts, and with
flinicully obtuiiicd a liundrcd thousand crowns.
The successes of Philip \', and the resistance he met with from these two provinces,
furfeitod them the transient title they possessed to hi^ favour. They were treated as con-
tjiicred provinces, and of their Cortes no more than the wreck we have noticed elsewhere
remained. Nevertheless the court of Madrid is not entirely free from the alarms inspired .
by Arragon and Catalonia, whose inhabitants arc prompt to take umbraf^e, and difficult
to train to the yoke of despotism. Those who are supposed to be deficient of devotion
to the dynasty of the Bourbons, are looked upon to lean towards tiie Arra^onesc party,
that is to say, to tlie disaffected side ; and it i> to dii^^ salutary appieliension that these two
jjcople arc indebted for a treatment forei;^n to a constitution wliieh no longer exists but
in rtUK niljrcincc.
Airaj^on c(intains several towns, besides Saragossa, deserving of mention.
Ilnesca, twche leagues distant, is situated in a territory famous for its productions of
all c!e->eripuons.
Tarraeoiiii, tliirteen great leagues from Saragossa, is surrounded by a country well
planted uilh trees, and well watered.
Terruel, between Saragossa and Valentia. Its name brings to mind the adventures
of tv.o lovers, which have been made the subject of an extremely affecting Spanish
drani;i, and whose dresses arc preserved, with a tender and pious respect, in one of the
churches of this tov\n.
The little river Turia, before it reaches 'J'erruel, passes by Albarracin, traverses and
lertilizes a beautiful plain which spreads beyond the town.
Daroca, on one of the roads from Madrid to Saragossa, deserves to be noticed. Si-
tuated at the foot of the mountains on the banks of the Xitoca, it is exposed to frequent
inundations. In order to guard against them, a subterranean channel, 780 yards long,
has been dug to carry off" the water. Tl»e banks of the Xitoca are exceedingly fruitful,
and produce an abundance of hemp of an excellent quality.
The principal wealth of Arragon consists in its oil, which is sweet, full of substance,
and has no unpleasant taste. In Saragossa itself are many olive mills. One of the most
remarkable is that belonging to a real patriot, of whom we have before spoken, Don Mar-
tin Coyecochea. Such proprietors of olive grounds as have no mills, bring their olives
to this. He has collected in his own house every thing for the use of the country people
w ho come for his assistance. This establishment affords a proof of what even a single
man can do who has the public good at heart, even in Spain. With pleasure I remarked
that the workmen employed about this mill, to the number of from twenty to two and
twenty, were all of them Frenchmen, who annually towards the close of December mi-
grate for the purpose from our southern provinces. Even the country people agree
that Spanish workmen would make but bad substitutes for these ; neither were they less
pleased with their decorous behaviour than with their superior intelligence. There are,
liowever, other mills at which Spanish workmen are employed near to Monte Terrero, a
place in the neighbourhood of the town which lias recently been levelled, and planted with
vines and olive trees ; there is one for the olives produced upon the lands appertaining to
the canal of Arragon, and those paid as contributions by the proprietors whose grounds
it irrigates.
I shall now give some account of this canal, the chief object of my excursion into
Arragon.
It passes half a league distant from Saragossa, below Monte Torrero. There are its
magazines, in which are deposited grain, timber, iron work, and utensils. These edi-
flOURCOANNES TRAVELS IV SI'MV.
551
with
fices, remarkable for their solidity, contribute to the cml)cllishment of the canal. There
it was that I went on board a yacht to visit six iHautiliil locks a great league Ijelow Sa-
ragossa. Half a league beyond these are four others, which receive the canal upon
its issuing from a large basin, on which you einijark to ascend it to its source.
Recommended to Don Uamon Pignatclli, the true creator of this canal, a master
piece of Spanish industry, I was enabled by his means to make this little water cxcur
sion with convenience and advantage. At eight o'clock in the morning I embarked
in a large boat under the management of Don Juan Payas, director of the canal. At
noon we stopped at the most remarkal)le spot, where the canal runs in a channel of
stone seven hundred and ten toises in length, over the course of the Xalon, which flows
beneath this stupendous piece of masonry. This part of the canal was the most expen
sive of any. Its cost is estimated at 13,000,000 of rials (nearly J^. 1 50,000 sterling. ) We
slept at Canalista, another station worthy of remark. The old canal from the Xalon, cut
for the purpose of irrigation, proceeding from the west, takes its course here over an
aqueduct of stone built over the canals, and afterwards directs its course eastward to-
wards Lucena.
The next day we admired the works of Gallar, a village on a naked slope on the banks
of the Ebro, which hereabouts approaches very nigh the canal. The inequality and
ruggedness of the ground which it has here to pass over required solid and very expen-
sive works. A little lower down, the canal runs in a channel of stone cut through very
high hills. This work is not new. Under Charles V, the first author of the canal of
Arragon in this part, it ran under ground, all therefore that was necessary at the present
time was to open it anew.
Haifa league beyond Gallar you perceive the Ebro, and, in the distance on the other
side of its right bank the village of Tauste, which gives its name to a canal entirely mo-
dern. For that which we are at present passing over is, properly speaking, the imperial
canal began by Charles V, but which, interrupted by the distractions of his restless am-
bition, he was obliged to discontinue, and which remained unregarded till the year 1770.
Since then it has made but slow progress, and perhaps would not have mady any, but
for the rare perseverance of Don Ramon Pignatclli. As you approach the mouth (El
Bocal) that is to say, the place where the canal begins, it is divided into two by a small
island. On the right, is the old canal of Charles V, on the left, that which has been
lately made. Shortly afterwards we pass under the bridge of Formigalis, Jiear which
the latter canal increases its breadth, and forms a superb sheet of water. Under this
bridge, of a single arch, is the first place at which the canal disembogues itself (almina-
ra dedisagua.)
There are to be five bridges over this canal between Gallar and El Bocal. Built at
first of wood, they have been or will be succqpsively constructed of brick.
Two leagues from El Bocal, after passing the old castle of Mallen, we enter the king-
dom of Navarre. Thence the canal commands a vast prospect over a plain covered
with pulse and maize. Below Formigalis we find the bridge of Valverdo, the confines
of Arragon on that side. At length, we reach the Bocal, which is a quarter of a league
beyond Formigalis.
There the Lbro, through a cut a hundred and eighteen toises long, and seventeen
broad, enters the bed of the canal by eleven mouths, which are never opened all at a
time, and over which the new palace is built. In front of one of the sides of this edi-
fice is the extensive sheet of water formed from the Ebro, and on the right, the cascade.
The first story of the palace comprises a suite of apartments for the governor of
the establishment, wl^ch were finished in 1787. The other buildings adjoining are
warehouses for wood, planks, and ironwork. The tavern, which is spacious, is well
553
BOURCOANNE's travels in SPAIN.
■ I
managed by a landlord from Thoulousc ; the chapel and the old cusllc are a quarter of
a leaf^ue distant from the bridge of Formigalis.
Alter having minutely examined this canal ; after noticing how well every tning has
been foreseen, how well every thing has been planned and executed ; and joining to this
grand undertaking many other monuments and establishments dispersed over modern
Spain ; it is impossible to retain any longer those unfavourable prepossessions against its
inhabitants, \\ hieh exist in the minds of a great part of the population of Europe, or
not to allow, that, if they are tardy in tlu ir measures, they yet complete many things
with intelligence, solidity, and even with magnificence.
The canal of Arragon seenifj to re-unite all these qualities, and its utility is already at-
tested by seventeen years experience. In the month of August 1792, it might produce
2,fX)0,00() of rials, more than half of which was consecrated to the payment of persons
employed, and the remainder was set apart for the continuation of the works. The
sources of this revenue arc the produce of the land for several toises in breadth on both
its sides, and the contributions in kind paid by all the land it irrigates. Those pre-
viously cultivated pay a fifth of their crop ; the lands newly broke up for tillage a sixth ;
and vineyards, olive-grounds and orchards, an eighth or ninth part. At the epoch
adverted to, one hundred thousand acres were watered by the canal ; and estates which a
few years before sold for from 100 to 1 50 rials per acre, had arisen to the value of from
4 to 5000 ; can a better apology be possibly adduced for canals, and for that of Arra-
gon in particular ? After this, will it be credited that funds could be wanting for its
completion? Yet in 1793 such was the case. It stopped at Cartuxa baxa, a great
league below Saragossa, and whh regret I learn, that since then it has made iio pro-
gress; that the managers have been entirely destitute offunds for the continuance of the
works, and that those which were finished wi re suffered to fall to decay. These arc
the results of the last war. Such is the fruit of intrigue and envy ?
This canal is to have in all thirty-four locks. From Tudela to Saragossa none are
necessary ; but from die last town to Sastago, where the canal is to join the F.bro again,
the elevation of the ground renders them indisijensable. In 1793 no more than six were
finished. The expence of the remaining twenty-eight ought not to create dismay.
Those already made had cost no more than 200,000 rials each. The residue therefore
would not require more than 6,000,000 (about /;68,000.)
For the advantage of the canal thbre have been contrived,
1st, Sluices (almenares de desagua) for taking off the superfluous waters.
2dly, Cuts for irrigating the neighbouring land (almenarasderiego.)
Sdly, Small bridges, or alcantarillas, to carry it over ravines. In some places the
neighbouring roads pass under the canal.
4thly, Superficial currents (corruntes si^perficiales) by means of which the land floods
are conducted over the surface of the canal, after depositing in a sort of well the stones,
mud, and gravel which they sweep along with them.
When desirous of cleaning the canal, it can be left dry in four or five hours. At
the same instant all its sluices are opened, and the waters by channels more or less slop-
ing empty themselves into the Ebro.
The drain from this river below Tudela, does not percei)tibly lessen its stream ; for
there are more precantions necessary against its superabundance, than a scarcity of its
waters ; but every thing is so excellently combined, that the quantity requisite for the
canal is computed to the most exact nicety.
Spain has no establishment that promises greater utility. For a long time the course
of the Ebro had been an insufficient means of communication for the three provinces
BOUUGOAX.VE's travels in SPAIN,
55 J
[uartcr of
[ii'nif; has
ng to this
r modern
igainst its
iropc, or
ny things
Iready at-
t produce
if persons
ts. The
h on both
liose pre-
', a sixth ;
he epoch
s which a
e of from
; of Arra-
ng for its
a, a great
le iio pr6-
ncc of the
rhese arc
none arc
bro again,
1 six wtrc
2 dismay,
therefore
places the
and floods
he stones,
ours. At
r less slop-
ream ; for
rcity of its
iite for the
the course
provinces
through uhich it flows, Navarre, Arnif^oii, and Catalonia. The canal which is to com
pcnsaie for its insuflicicncy w ill run twenty-six great leagues from Tudela to Sastago.
At the latter place ilie FJjro begins to be navigable, at least requiring little to make ii
so, as far as Tortosa, whence it is navigable to the sea. Along this river is another
canal eleven leagues in length, wIulIi was finished even before the time of Charles V.
It is that of Tausto. Intended solely for irrigation, it has become neglected, and is con-
sequently of very little service. The directors of the new canal engaged to re-establisli
the old ; but until the new cut be mnde to supjjly both canals, they have suffered the
old one tortniain, which is about half a league higher up.
The Ebro itself, however, is not entirely useless to the countries through which it
flows. But navigable for no more than four or five months of llic year, from Sarra-
gossa to the sea ; it is but partially beneficial to navigation, and cannot be employed to
water the meadows. I'he new canal answers both these purposes. Its least depth i.s
nine feet, and the largest vessels employed upon it arc of 13j tons burthen.
El Bocal is very near to Navarre. The village of Fontellas is situated on an eminence
nigh the canal. You pass through it to go to Tudela, two leagues distant, which is the
first town on that side of the kingdom, of Navarre.
On leaving Fontellas you meet with a specimen of the superb roads with which this
part of Spain, owing to the care of its viceroy count Gages, was furnished before any
other; roads which pass from one frontier to the other of Navarre. It is kllt•^'•n that
one of the roads which lead from France to Spain is that from the French or lo ./cr Na-
varre to the upper. This journey is begun on horseback, or on a mule, at St. Jean
Pied de Port, a small town, situated at the foot of that very steep ridge of the Pyrenees
called Altovizar; it takes two or three hours to clear it and reach Roncevalles, situated
at the bottom of the opposite side of the Pyrenees. Roneevailes, a name famous in ro-
mance and fabulous history, is at present no more than a village, containing some tole-
rable inns and a monastery of regular canons.
Thence to Pampeluna is six leagues of excellent road through deep vallies, and ra-
ther lofty mountains, both partly covered with wood. On the way you have the val-
ley of Bastan on the left, which up to the present day has been the theatre of continual
quarrels between the borderers. After traversing the valley it may readily be consi-
dered a proper apple of discord. It is five or six leagues in diameter. The Bidassoa
has its source therein ; it does not produce much corn, but abounds in fruit and maize,
and its meadows are covered with sheep.
Pampeluna, the capital of Spanish Navarre, and residence r i its governor and vice-
roy, is built on an eminence on the banks of the little river Arga. It contains but three
thousand houses at present; it is protected by a citadel and a fort, and in 1795 prepa-
rations were made there to resist our victorious arms. The six leagues from Pampe-
luna to Tafala traverses a rich and well peopled country. The distance from Tafala to
Tudela is eleven leagues, the six last of which is also through a well cultivated country,
if the Bardena del Rey be excepted, an uncultivated district, but which furnishes excel-
lent pastures.
Tudela, a great league from the frontiers of Arragon, is a middling-sized town, to-
lerably well built. At the extremity of the wide street, which intersects it lengthways,
is a stone bridge over the the Ebro ; when you have crossed this bridge, the superb rt)ad
of seventeen leagues to Pampeluna begins. The territory of Tudela, known only for
the production of its red wine, is adapted to all species of cultivation ; but the miscon-
ceived cupidity of the rich proprietors to whom it belongs, has consecrated it tp the sole
VOL. V. 3 b
I
55't
BOURCOANN'E S TnAV£LS IN SI>AIN.
culture of the vine. Ptralta, which furnishes a wine of some celebrity, is a few leagues
distant from Tudcia, pretty near the road to Pampeluna.
The kingdom of Navarre, taken by Ferdinand the Catholic from John D' Albret, forms
a distinct province, the same as Biscay, which preserves its customs, privileges, and sepa-
rate tribunal, and is looked upoi> in many respects as beyond the frontiers. The greater
part of foreign merchandise is admitted free of duty, not being examined until its ar-
rival at Agreda, the first custom-house of Castile towards Navarre.
But let us re-enter Arragon, and leave its canal, which, even as it is, deserves the
admiration of ;ill persons conversant in useful and solid works, and of every friend to the
public good. Were it never to be completed, enough has been done to immortalize
the name of Don Ramon PignatcUi, who, in despite of the double title he possessed to be
inactive, that of his rank in the church, and that of his illustrious origin ; in despite of
intrigue, and the coolness of the court, was one of the most diligent, most enlightened,
and most estimable men in Spain.*
Saragossa is on one of the roads from Madrid to Barcelon ; but this road is one of
the worst in Spain, and gives no very favourable idea either of Arragon or Catalonia.
In particular, nothing can be imagined more destitute or hideous, than a great part of
the country you pass over from Villafranca, at which place you lose sight of Saragossa,
to two leagues beyond the wretched borough of Fraga, situated on the banks of the
Cinea, and at the foot of a steep and almost impassable mountain, which you have to cross
before you reach Lerida. Passing Villafranca you arrive at the Ventu de San Lucia, the
most disgusting inn in Spain. Thence passing through the borough of Bujaraloz, the
miserable village of Candasnos presents itself, separated from Fraga by five leagues of
the most frightful country. Catalonia begins on the other side of Fraga. Lerida is
at about the same distance ; hut in another part I shall speak of this important town, and
the twenty leagues of road between it and Barcelona.
In the interim, let us proceed to the south of Spain, beginning with the elegant resi-
dence of Aranjuez.
CHAPTER in. . •
DESCRIPTION OF ARANJUEZ.
THE road from Madrid to Aranjuez is one of the finest, and kept in the best order of
any in Europe. You see before you the broad and long bridge leading to Toledo, a
massive structure, whose parapets are loaded with ill-chosen ornaments. When the
Manzanares is very low the bridge may be avoided (which saves a quarter of a league)
by crossing, over a small bridge, the canal intended to join this small river with the Ta-
gus, and which, begun under the administration of M. de Grimuldi, was given up for
want of funds, after it had proceeded about three leagues, and for want of such persons
as Don Ramon Pignateili, worthies very rare in Spain. The only revenue derived
from it is the produce of a few mills ; and this is absorbed by the repair of bridges,
sluices, and the salaries of persons employed. For in almost every part, scarcely is an
* After the death of Don Ramon PignutcUi, the count de Sostago, individually interested in the
canal of Arragon, was nominated ad interim to the supcrintendance thereof. This office was after-
wards delegated to the directors-general of bridges at Madrid. It is not likely that, under the man-
agement of a body distant from the spot, and whose attention is occupied by so many other concerns,
the canul should attain perfection. At present it is employed either for navigation or irrigation, only
from Tudela to a league beyond Saragossa. .. , ;^,^ ^ ^.,,..„,,,
^»«-~.
BOURGOANNE S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
55.)
establishment begun, before the expenccs of supporting it arc as considcr.ible as it' it were
complfted.
Tne Manzanares is fordublc a little beyond, and on the other side begins the fine road
of Aranjuez, whence are seen different groups of olive-trees. Afte having journeyed
six leagues, on a very straight and even road, you descend to the charming valley of
Aranji".z. The Xarama, which you cross over a very fine stone bridge, runs at the foot
of the hills, by which the river is formed, to the north. As soon as you arrive in this
valley, the dry and naked plains of Castile disappear, and you perceive a change both of
soil and climate ; here you travel in the shade of lofty trees, and distinguish the noise of
cascades and the murmur of rivulets. The meadows are enamelled with flowers, and
the pastures display the most lively and variegated colours. Vegetation appears in all its
richness, and bespeaks the neighbouring river, which, with its beneficent waters, fertili-
zes and vivifies the landscape. The Tagus, which enters the valley at the east end, runs
in meanders for two leagues, and, after having reflecied the images of the most beautiful
plantations, joins the Xarama.
The embellishments of Aranjuez are modern. The first Spanish monarch who re-
sided there for any considerable length of time was Charles V. He began to build the
palace which his successors inhabit, and to which Ferdinand VI, and Charles III, have
each added a wing. In this new form, it has more the appearance of a very agreeable
country-house than a royal mansion. The Tagus, which runs in a right line to the
eastern front, glides by the parterre, and forms almost under the windows an artificial
cascade.
A small arm of the river escapes at the cascade, and so closely washes the walls of
the palace, that from the terrace the monarch may take the diversion of fishing. This arm
aderwards rejoins the river, and thus forms a pleasant island, which is a vast garden of
an irregular form, in which there is constant shade and fresh air at all times. Wander-
ing amid the labyrinth of the winding walks, one enjoys the luxury and calm of nature,
and may imagitie one's self flir from courts, in the midst of rural solitude. Lofty trees,
high walls of verdure, and fountains simply adorned, these are the ornaments of the gar-
den of the isle. Its magnificence increased would but diminish its charms. Charles V,
and Philip II, would find some difficulty in recognizing Aranjuez, which by the atten-
tion and improvements of the two last kings has been rendered one of the most pleasing
palaces in Europe. The principal alleys, that especially of the Calle de la Reyna, which
is the favourite walk of the court, were planted long before their time. The height of
the trees, their enormous trunks and thick foliage, attest their antiquity and the fertility
of the soil in which they have flourished for many centuries. But these are not the only
ornaments of the valley of Aranjuez. Under Ferdinand VI, this palace consisted of little
else than the castle. A few poor houses scattered over uneven and rugged ground at
some distance from the royal habitation, served to lodge ambassadors and the nobles and
gentry who followed the court. These huts have been replaced by regular and elegantly
simple buildings. The principal streets are shaded by two rows of trees, watered by a
running stream, they are all built in a straight line and very wide, perhaps too wide for
the height of the houses and the heat of the climate. The plan, after which the new vil-
lage of Aranjuez is built, was given by the marquis of Grimaldi, who, before he became
ambassador to France and first .minister to his catholic majesty, had resided at the
Hague as his representative, whence he gathered the idea of establishing a Dutch
town in the centre of Castile.
The village is separated from the castle by a large but irregular square, adorned by
a fountain. Charles III, constructed a portico, which almost entirely proceeds from
4 B 2
:.5o
noURGOANNE'a IR.WEtS IN 3I'AIN.
the ctid of one of the priiicipiil streets, and forming a part of tiic inclosurc of the bquarr.
joins the buildings belonging to the paluee.
It would require too much time to conduct the reader through all the fine plants
tions of Aranjucz; I shall speak only of the principal. Arriving from Madrid we cross
a circular space called Las doce callcs, from twelve alleys which there terminate. One
of the alleys leads to the entrance of Las Huertas, a large orchard, in which we cannot
but admire the astonishing fertility of the soil of Aranjucz. If the traveller wishes to
see more rich cultivation, and on a larger scale, he must take the road to Toledo and
cross the Campo Flamenco, which undoubtedly takes its name from the resemblance it
bears to the delightful fields of Flanders. The Cortijo is also worthy of his particular
attention. This is a large expanse closed by a latticed barrier, within which the soil,
cultivated with particular care, jsuriously repays the labours of the husbandman, and
the attention of the king, who has caused ittolic planted with vine-suckers from differ-
ent parts of his kingdom.
Lastly, the Huerta de Valentia presents the traveller with various new and successful
modes of cultivation, and gives him a pleasing idea of that kingdom. Besides fields of
flax, vineyards, and artificial meadows, there are mulberry plantations, and a building
consecrated to the produce of silk-worms. But the Calle de la Rcyna, which forms the
angle of the plantatioi s of Aranjucz, is that which is most known and remarkable in
them. Its direction, lor about half a league, is from east to west, and its termination at
the foot of a stone bridge thrown over the Tagus. It is renewed on the other side,
continues to much the same distance, and again terminates with a bridge over the same
river, the windings of which can only be seized by the imagination, as it strays through
a valley shaded with groves of high trees and trellises, which at intervals conceal its
course. Behind one of these thick curtains a cascade is heard at a great distance, the
noise of which alone disturbs the tranquility of this solitude. The intention of it is to
carry oft" a part of the waters of the Tagus. The branch, of this river thus turned from
its bed, runs in a made channel through a deep ditch, and proceeds to water part of the
plantations of Aranjucz, and supply the necessities of its inhabitants. But shades and
verdure of a sudden cease, nothing now is seen before you but hills piled on each other,
which close the valle)', and whose aspect it has been the work of art to conceal, in order
to prevent the deadening efiect it \vould otherwise have on the landscape. At the foot
of these hills are stables of breeding mares, belonging to the king of Spain, and in which
the breed of Spanish horses is still preserved in all its ancient beauty. The building has
for inscription,* Vento gravidas ex prole putaris. The swiftness of the horses bred here
justifies the inscription.
The king attaches great importance to the prosperity of the breed of Aranjuez ; not-
withstanding that the embarrassments consequent on war suspended the attention requi-
site to such an cstiiblishment. But in 1796 a council was formed exclusively charged
with this task, under the title of Supreme Junta of Equitation. The breeding stud of
Aranjuez consists at present of four hundred mares, and twenty stallions. In addition
to this, the prince of the peace, who is particularly attached to whatever relates to the
cavalry, maintains himself eighteen stallions, and one hundred and fifty mares. Aranjuez
possesses likewise a breed of mules ; for these beasts, of mean appearance it is true, but
extremely serviceable and beautiful of their kind, are not to be scouted entirely. There
are therefore eighteen stallion asses, and three hundred mares kept on the same establish*
ment, as their more elegantly formed rivals. • >
r
* By their progeny you might deem them impregnate by the winds.
fiOURCOANNK's rHAVi:L3 IN SPAIN.
.^4V
; square,
plantn
ve cros!)
One
e cannot
viblics to
Icdo and
blancc it
>articulur
the soil,
lun, and
n diflfcr-
jcccssfiil
fields of
building
arms the
kable iu
nation at
her side,
:hc same
throuffh
nceal its
ince, the
)r it is to
led from
art of the
ades and
ich other,
in order
t the foot
in which
Iding has
bred here
ez ; not-
on requi-
charged
J stud of
addition
;es to the
!\.ranjuez
true, but
There
:stablish-
v'
Leaving this establishment on the left, you re-enter the- grand rows of tree* wiiieh end
at La Calle de la Ktyna TQucenNstrcet.)
The high trees, of wliieli I have spoken, are not the only ornaments of this alle\ . (^ii
the right it is edged with copses, which render its rejjularity more agreeable. Men
skipped along or grazed the numerous herds of iker in the reign of C'liarlerf III, whieb
have been destroyed bj- his successor.
But the garden of the Priniaveni, or thesnring, is the (greatest ornament of the Calle
dc la Reyna. Under the reign of Charles III, it extended no more than a thousand paces
along the Calle de la Reyna. Charles IV, continued it as far as to the Ta}j;u3.
Nothing can be imagined more delightful than this garden during the season of which
it bears the name. Here the fertility of the soil of the valley appears in all its richness.
Useful culture is not forgot. Flowers, vegetables, fruit of every kind flourish in per-
fection. Groves yield hospitable shelter against the noontide heat. Copses of odorifc
rous shrubs perfume the morning air, and the balmy vapours they exhale decline again
at sun-set to charm at the evening walk. Seventeen years ago, all the ground beiween
the inclosure of the garden and the banks of the Tagus was uncultivated, and over-
grown with noxious weeds. His present majesty, then prince of Asturias, by his taste
and attention, converted this into one of the most pleasing parts of the valley. He or-
dered some useless trees, which shaded this fertile spot, to be cut down ; grass plats,
shrubberies, and parterres have succeeded them, and paths wind across this new treasure
of vegetation. In the interval between sj)ring to spring a vast garden was produced,
infinitely varied in its form as well as productions.
A little dock yard is contrived within its inclosure, and communicates by an easy de-
scent with the Tagus. In this yard are carried on the works of a navy in miniature,
which has its builtlers, sailors and vessels. Farther on is a kind of port, defended by
a proportionate battery. There are likewise little vessels elegantly decorated, the guns
of which reply to the artillery of the port. The noise of their cannon, the huzzas of the
sailors, and the display of the flags and streamers, induce the spectators to imagine them-
selves present at the games of Neptune and Mars. Happy were men, if every where
content with such mimickry ; if a thirst after fame and riches no longer converted into
means of destruction the properties of elements which nature intended perhaps but for
their pleasures !
Every country amusement may be enjoyed at Aranjucz ; hunting, fishing, walking.
Walks are no where more varied, more commodious, more agreeable ; whether with a
book you wander through the shrubberies, or thread the long alleys on horseback or in
a carnage.
Formerly the deer there forgot their timidity, and in company with wild boars, were
met with in the streets. They might have been taken for domestic animals.
The 5uffalos brought thitner from Naples are substituted for oxen, as working cattle.
I even saw camels patiently apply their robust strength to hard labour, but they were
unable long to resist the influence of £\ foreign climate. At the same time, two zebras
grazed in a meadow near the high road, as also two guanacos, which seemed as per-
fectly at their ease as in their own country ; whilst an elephant calmly moved his un-
wieldy frame along, without being in the least discomposed by the crowds of people,
whom curiosity brought about him. It is in this manner that so\ ereigns should openly
expose the foreign animals which they crowd together in their menageries. These mag-
nificent prisons accuse man of tyranny without proving his power. The kings of Spain
are at least devoid of this reproachful magnificence. In the gardens of Buen Retire
they have lions shut up in small buildings, whence sometimes their threatening roar is
J
.')58
BOUnr.OAKNE S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
heard. They have k benutirul preserve of pheaHants in the interior of the gnrdctt^i ol
Saint lUld'onso. Uut no where have they, properly spcakinp;, a nuiia|i;erie.
ThoHe whieh more especially eontrilnite tothcenihellihhiuent of Ar.iiijiiez are horses.
There they have room to display all the heuiity of their motions niul tluir speed. Thither
the kiiigocCAKiunally hringii the nuignifieent sets with which his studs ^iipply him.
Tormerly the Calledela Reynu was the course wnere horses from liarhary displayed
their swiftness, and each had his partisans amun)( the courtiers, who iKttcd on his head.
The reif;;ning monarch, then prince of Asturias, snbsiitnted instead of these, Karnes,
called Parej.is. A sfpiadron was formed of four abreast and twelve deep. Tlie files
were commandid by himself, one of his two brothers, and one of the principal persons
of the court, each with a distinguishing; colour. The forty-eijjfht cavalic rs were all clothed
and accoutred in the ancient Spanish manner, a uniform udvanta^c-oiisly calculated to give
to the whole a military and anticpie appearance, and to carry back the actors to the age
of their ancc stors. They were looked upon w ilh all that interest which the image of
things past generally excites, as they advanced in column on one of the huge courts of
the castle to the sound of trumpets and kettle-drums, preceded by running footmen, and
led- horses richly caparisoned, all at once dividing, galloping away from each other, then
again approaclung, now at fidl speed round the arena, and now crossing it diagonally,
thus displaying all the grace of their beautiful racers. This cold, this feeble representa-
tion of the ancient tournaments, rentinded the spectators of those regretted festivals at
which, under the eyes of the sovereigns, and beauties of the age, the knights obeyed the
tlonble impulse of love and fame, and obtained in the suflhiges of those who reigned over
their hearts an inestimable recompence for their courage and addn'ss. And in order even
to make the most devoted courtisanstake any pleasure in this modern dance of centaurs,
it was necessary that the sons of their king, lor whobc amusement it was established,
should be co-actors in the arena.
The king for some years back has laid aside this amusement, and adopted others more
conformable to his taste. One that appears to be most pleasing to him, is to attend the
trying of artillery in the Huerta de Valentia, the noise of which disturbs the calm of this
charming residence, more frequently than is agreeable to the ladies, or those of elVemJ-
nate maimers.
But he particularly delights in embellishing his garden, a part of which is now sur-
rounded by the banks of the Tagus. A sort of pond has been made here, in the midst
of which is erected a kiosk, a small Greek temple, and on a heap of rough stones, or
rather a rock, is an Apollo in marble. In the neight)ourhood Uiere is u barge in the Chi-
nese taste, titled up fur navigating this artificial lake; whimsical union of irrelevant ob-
jects, the trivialty of which is striking, notwithstanding expensive decorations ! But nature
here has done so much ; flowers, exotic plants are found in such plenty ; foreign trees,
the most singular and beautiful, and particularly long rows of weeping willows and catal-
pas succeed here so well, und yield so cool a shade ; so many means of watering, such
a variety of prospects in despite of the evenness of whe ground exist here, that the garden
of Aranjuez forms, without doubt, one of the most agreeable promenades in Europe.
The tribute which thus I pay is due to this spot in return for the delightful hours that I
have p.issed under its leafy shades, as wandering through its mazes of flowers and ver-
dure, I diverted my mind from the cares of a troublesome negotiation with the enjoy-
ment of the vegetable riches of the new and the old world.
The new palace and other edifices arc of a pleasing form, void of magniflcencc. The
royal apartments in the reign of Charles III, contained few paintings of value. They
have however lately been much enriched by the spoils of St. Ildefonso, and contain now
^<\
lOVRUOANNKt TRAVLL3 IN CI'AIN.
asy
incirc than four htiiulrcd paintiiin'*. nmonp; which some hy Oiiido, Oncrcino, I^nnfranc,
Ptjd-tsiii, hi'. 'I'hf iK'w ihiipil of the cusilf is of a j^ood st) If. Sculptiirr and gihhiif^
arc therein distributed with taste, without prulusiun, and ufcw picccit by Mtngs cuntri*
butc n <t a httic to iiH dccorution.
Aranjut'Z ':ont«i(iH three chnrchrs. The most recent is that of the convent of Fran-
cincuns, culled St. Paschal, and was founded l)v the confessor of Charles III, in the most
elcvutcd spot of the whole residence. I remarked, in the vestibule of this convent, piuUN
Manzas of u Hingular kind.
Opposite to this church is a royal hospital, extremely well placed and worthy of no-
tice lor the uhhistance of every description afforded throuji;h its means to the sick.
Sickness is very prevalent in this uboch- of Aranjnez, in other respects so engaging.
As long as the tenineraturc of the air is moderate, every thing about the palace charms
the senses, and the iiappiness of existence is perfectly enjoyed ; but soon as the violent
heats of summer begin, when the scorching air, shut in by the valley, is loaded with
cxliulutions from a slow and muddy river, and with nitrous vapours drawn by the sun
from the hills betw*.'en which the Tagiis rims, this valley of Tempc becomes a pernicious
abode, "capable d'enriehir en un jour I'Acheron."* The inhabitants withdraw from
it, and seek, upon the neighbouring heights, particularly at Ocanna, a more wholesome
atmosphere. Arunjuez, which, during the month of May and half of June, contains
bbout ten thousand inhabitants, and is the resort of those who wish either for health or
pleati'jrc, becomes a desert exclusively inhabited by wild boars and deer. Few persons
remain there, except those who are attached to it either by profession or poverty.
Formerly the king did not use to repair hither until after Easter, and remained until
the end of June. The new court, which prefers Arunjuez K) all its residences, now goes
there us eurly as the beginning of January.
Arunjuez is on the road from Madrid to Cudiz. I shall now trace it in company
with my reader.
CHAPTER IV.
BAVLEM. ANDUXAK.
ROAD PnOM ARANJUKZ TO CADIZ. tA MANCIIA. COI.OMF.S OF MORF.NA.
COHDUVA. YIIK KINODOM OF OHANADA.
IT is only since 1785 that it has been possible to travel post from Madrid to Cadiz.
Until then this mode of travelling was utterly unknown in Spain, exceptingon the road
from the capital to the residence of the court at the time.f
Two leagues from Arunjuez you meet first with the little town of Ocana, remarkable
for its school of cavalry, which, under the auspices of genend Ricardos, has been for
these several years in a state of prosperity.
On leaving Ocanu the eye takes in a vast plain perfectly flat, the first specimen of La
Mancha. Next succeeds Guardia, which, if the church be excepted, appears a heap of
ruins ; afterwards Tembleque, a town of one thousand five hundred houses, not desti-
tute of industry. Some little saltpetre is extracted from the ground about it, noembel*
lishment to its neighbourhood. Tembleque has a tolerubly pleusunt promenade, an in-
valuable property m the arid plains of La Mancha.
* CHDiible of enriching in one day the ferryman of hell.
t Wuhiii these few years a traveller may go post in several different directions, particularly from Ma-
drid to Cadiz, in smull chaises, which are furnished by the post-masters, although the custom of tra-
velling in coches de colleras, drawn by six mules, be still prevalent, as well as in calashes drawn by two.
There is a cheaper mode of travelling on the back of a mule preceded by the garde on foot, or with
messengers called ordinarios, who go at stated perioas from one great town to another, but in Spain,
properly speaking, there is no stage, that between Bayonne and Madrid being discontinued.
.•00
U'ji;;t&u.\NNK'3 ru.WKLs in II'.MN.
*n»c ibllowiiii,' jiosthoMsc i.H ofic MamliMg 1>\ ilscll', called Canada dc la Iligucra, U»c
most iniscruMc iiiu on tlu- roatl.
Tuoliaguis farllui-isMadridrjos, n prt-lty village, «i» Kavinf; which one is agreeably
MiriiriMcl to I'liid, in the mid-st of plains totally drprived ol \erdure,n row nf white elini,
iirden mounds, and a few tiilH of trees, ran natUes in liurj'/nt vasto.
At the en(l of three leagues of neileclly level and unvaried eouniry, you arrive at
some (garden grounds, and a few tulH of trees, ran nantes in liurj'/ut vasto
IK ill
Puirto I.apidic, a hinall village at the loot of two hills, near which iJon (Quixote, ut the
heginninp; ol hia careir, ctpiipped himself as a knight.
At Nillalla coarse cotton cloths are fabricafrd. Ikforc yon arrive there, you cross
a loMjr and narrow s;one bridge, on each side of which is a lui>;e pool ol standing water
tovcud with marshy plants. This species of morass is the river Giiadiana, which, at
home disliime thence, hides underground its lazy waves entirely, and re-appears after,
wardsat n ph.ceeiilled Los ojos de Cluadiana, traverses Kstranuiiinraanda pailof l*ortu-
l^al, ar.d then falls into the sea, dividing the latter kingdom from Spain.
l'i\e great leagues separate Villalta from Mancanares, one ol the largest towns of La
Maiicha, and one of the principal quartirs of the carubineers; and ulure to counter,
balance the abundance which they spread throughout the district, tluy are rather loo
prone to violate the laws of hospitality, setting good manners at defiance.
The wine of tlje neighbourhood of Mancanares is little inferior to that of Val de penas,
another tow n four leagues distant. The whole of this district is the true country for
good La Mancha wine. It is of two sorts. The first of a deep ruby tint, possesses more
bcjdy and strengdi than any of our wines, if those ofdw banks of the Hhone and Uous>
sillon be exceptid ; but there is little free from a taste of pitch, which it eoiUructs from
the vessels in uhich it is customarily kept. The white wmc is less common than red.
Its tint approaches that of Champagne, but it is somcuhat rough. It is exported to
England and America. The red wine is mostly consumed at home.
Santa Cruz, two leagues beyond Mancanares, is the chief of the estates of that grandee
of Spain, who is grand master of the king's household, and governor of the prince of
Asturias. After this, you arrive at the small village of Almoradid, where the immense
plains of La Mancha terminate southward.
Perhaps all Europe does not contain a district more level than that which one has to
pass over for two-and-twenty wearisome leagues from Temblcque to Almoradid. No-
thing can be more monotonous than the prospect of this immense horizon. During
two or three hours travelling not one single habitation exists on which to rest the eye ;
it wanders over vast fields not in the highest state of cultivation, although nothing but the
excessive drought prevents a display of the excellence of the soil. Some straggling
plantations of olive trees, planted at great distances apart, interrupt at times the uni-
formity that reigns through the country.
This province however is not throughout its whole extent so even as that from Ma-
drid to Cadiz. To the west of Tembleque and Madridejos, are large valleys, less bare
than its plains. Charles III, was accustomed to go every other year to the neighbour,
hood of Yvenes, a village situated twelve leagues from Aranjuez. It commands a large
and beautiful valley in which are olive plants in profusion, and on the opposite side rises,
above a chain of hills, the old castle of Consuegra. The town of that name, of fifteen
hundred houses, is at the foot of the castle. It belongs to the grand prior}' of Malta,
which was held by the infar Don Gabriel. This prince, who will long be regretted in
Spain, who loved the arts and his country, delighted in embellishing the environs of
Consuegra.
Kinra, iht
iij^rtxal)!)
utc clllH,
I arrive at
utc, ut the
you crosi
II ig wutcr
which, at
^•ar^4 al'ttT-
luirortii-
WHS ol' L:i
li cuimtcr.
rulhcr luu
dc |)cnas,
juiury Tor
^h-scs iiiort.'
lul l{uus>
nicts horn
I than red.
Kportcd to
\t grandtc
; prince of
! immciibc
one has to
Jid. No.
During
t the cj'c ;
ng but the
straggling
s the uni.
from Ma-
, less bare
eighbour-
ids a large
side rises,
of fifteen
of Malta,
:gretted in
ivirons of
lOURGO.VKNK 8 TRAVCLI IK IfAIX.
361
I^u Maiicha, no well kiiowii by its wines, »o much letter by the exploits of Don
Quixote, who^e hintorian was as correct as a geographer, a>» faithful its a delineator of the
manners of this part of Spain ; La Man* ha eoniains many plact s more reiuarkabli* than
ihofc celebrated by Ctr\ antes. Ciiidad Heal is its capital. It was IbrnKrIy the prin
cipal residence of the old Santa Ilermandad, previous to the king St. Ferdinand; it* ob-
ject was to purge the country of the thieves with whieii it was inlested. It has at pre-
sent a poor-house, which it ours ft) the humanity of the archbishop of ToUdo, who felt
for the indigent part of his flock dispersrd throughout I^i Maueh.i. It is a superb edifice,
which in IVyO had already cost more than J.OOO.OOO of rials. .\hna;;ro, anodier »o\vn
of three thousand inhil)itauts, is in the middle of a very extensive plain, four leagues
from Santa Cruz. You arrive at the lormer from the latter place, passing over u coun*
try entirely uninhabited through immense p.>stures.
But let us resume the road to Cadiz. On leaving Almoradid you approach the Si
erra Moretia. Four-and- twenty years ago, in order to avoid liusdistrii t, the dread ot
travellers, you were accustomed to turn more to the west, in order to reail. the chain
of mountains known by the name of the Sierra Moreiia, or tlu' black forest. After
passing the borough of Viso, one was used to cross it at the peril of one's life in one of
Its steepest parts, called VA pucriodel Rey. Le Maur, a Frenchman, attache d for a long
titne to the corps of I'jigineers in .Spain, was selected in 1779 by count Florida Blancu
to make this road, the most fre(piented in Spain, ut least pussaljle. lie has substituted
for the old road one of the finest iii F'.urope, notwidistauding the dilHculties opposed by
the nature of the ground it had to traverse. He constructed bridges, slopes supported
by masonry, and walls high enough to alford support, slight rampirts, sheltered by
nhichyou drive fearless and without danger over the brink of precipices. In this man-
ner you arrive at Despcnaperros, a spot at which the rocks approaching each other seem
disposed to form a vault over the liead of the travi Her. At the bottoui of thu valley, a
rivulet rushes along w ith great noise, the waters of which are intended to supply a ca-
nal projected by diis skilful engineer. A little farther is the post-house of Las Corre
deras, surrounded by a group of huts in the midst of the mountains.
Hence with little trouble you ascend as far as to Lu Carolina, a town entirely modern,
the chief place of the colony of La Sierra Morena. The flourishing state to which it
was carried by Don Pablo Olavides did not long continue after his disgrace. Slight as
the funds were, which were set apart for its maintenance, they were not exactly paid.
The zeal of the parties diminished, and the v.orks were interrupted. The managers as
well were too hasty in imposing taxes on the colonists, with intention of proving to tli^
court, that there was a prospect of the establishment reimbursing in a few years the cx-
pences of its formation. So many motives of discouragement caused agriculture to
languish and many families left the colony. Nevertheless in 1785 this little capital and
its dependent hamlets contained five thousand and forty-four persons. The German
families, which at first were numerous, have partly disappeared, and those who remain
have become blended with the natives. For more than ten years there have been no
priests who speak their language. But lately this interesting colony, an atlc'cting s|)eci-
men of the wonders of which a government is capable that is sincerely desirous of doing
good, continues to jusiify its cares and hopes, in order to appreciate duly tlie value of
this creation, the spot should have been previously seen, when destitute of inhabitants and
waste. B"«t there, as is every where the case, intrigue and envy have rendered in mea-
sure abortive the fruits of genius and beneficence.
Guarroman, the first stage from La Carolina, is a town built at the same epoch, whose
inhabitants continue to prosper. You leave the Sierra Morena at Baylcn, an ancient
town, whose district can boast one of the finest breed of horses in all Andalusia.
vot. V. 4 c
562
SOURCOANKE's travels in SPAIN.
At about a league from Baylen I remarked to the left i large venta M. Olavidc had
ordered to be begun, but since his disgrace it has been neglected, as if it had been struck
by the same anathema as its founder.
You afterwards pass the Rumblar, over a stone Ijridge ; a league farther on it falls into
the Guadalquivir. From La Casa del Rcy, a solitary inn in the middle of the woods,
you first perceive the Guadalquivir, and reach it at a little distance from Anduxar. Jaen,
the bishop of which has been the grand inquisitor for many years, and which is the capital
of one of the four kingdoms of Andalusia, is six leagues from Anduxar. Many Roman
inscriptions are seen here, which attest its antiquity. When rain is not wanting, the
country between these two towns is exceedingly fertile.
Anduxar is one of the richest and most ancient towns in Spain, but its unhealthy po-
sition exposes its inhabitants to maladies, for which in the spontaneous and numerously
variegated productions of the vegetable kingdom prostrate before them, they might
readily find a remedy. Not less rich below its surface than above ; the entrails of An«
duxar arc replete with veins of metal, minerals, valuable marble, rock crystal, &c. The
environs of the town arc agreeable, and fortel the neighbourhood of a river. The
Guadalquivir Bows at some distance from its walls. From this part, for a long time, has
existed a project for rendering it navigable ; but previously it will be requisite to destroy
three mills, which bar its course from side to side.
A stage of three long leagues and a half brings you to Aldea del Rio, a large village
upon an eminence, on the bank of the Guadalquivir.
Four leagues farther you arrive at El Carpio, a town of one thousand five hundred in-
habitants, on the left bank of Guadalquivir ; before you arrive there, you discern from
the road the pretty town of Bujalanca, situated in the midst of a vast plain, productive of
^vine, grain, and oil.
From this place to Cordova is five long leagues, one half of which is across a country
entirely naked of trees, but not barren. At about half way you cross the Guadalquivir
at Las Ventas de Alcolea, over a bridge, which is one of the finest structures on the new
road. Thence to Cordova the Guadalquivir flows on the left, and on the right the back
of the Sierra Morena is distinguished. This long chain of woody mountains, of which
you do not lose sight from your first entrance into Andalusia, compensates for the per-
fect nudity of the country you pass through. One is notwithstanding in the centre of
that Boetica so much celebrated by the ancients, and of which the magic pen of Fenelon
has made a country of enchantment, the abode of happiness and plenty. Such in fact
might modern Boetica become ; at present maugre the finest climate in the world, and
its most valuable and numerous productions, it but excites regret.
As you approach Cordova from Madrid, it possesses nothing striking ; but as you
proceed to it from Cadiz, it forms a semicircular amphitheatre on a gentle slope along
the Guadalquivir.
The native place of the two Senecas, and Lucan, of Averrhoes, and several learned
Arabs, and of that great Captain Gonzalve de Cordova, it now contains nothing remark-
able except its cathedral, one of the most curious monuments in Europe. Formerly it
was a mosque begun by the Moorish king Abdarame, who, dsirous of making it the
principal temple of the Mahometans, next to that of Mecca, adorned it with most rare
magnificence. Lengthways it has twenty-nine naves, and in breadth nineteen, upheld
by more than a thousand columns, if you include the hundred, which from the interior
support the cupola. The eye is more surprised than delighted at the sight of a forest
of columns, which perhaps cannot be equalled throughout the world. They are all
either of marble of different colours, or of jasper, but somewhat tarnished by time. The
whole building, which on the outside p.esents to thjs eye nothing but an unshapen massive
BOURGOANNE's travels in SPAIN.
563
Olavide had
been struck
<^ it falls into
i"ihe woods,
luxar. Jaen,
is the capital
[dtiy Roman
wanting, the
nhealthy po-
nuinerously
they might
rails of An*
,1, &c. The
river. The
ngtime, has
:e to destroy
large village
hundred in-
discern from
iroductive of
ss a country
Guadalquivir
J on the new
rht the back
, of which
Tor the per-
he centre of
1 of Fenelon
Such in fact
world, and
but as you
slope along
'eral learned
ing remark-
Formerly it
aking it the
:h most rare
een, upheld
the interior
of a forest
!'hey are all
time. The
pen massive
edifice, is six hundred and twenty feet in length, by four hundred and forty in
breadth. Lengthways in one part, it fronts a large court, below which is an ample
vaulted cistern. This court has a dismal appearance, it is planted and particularly with
orange trees, whose ancient and tufted foliage serves as an asylum to a number of birds,
and shades several fountains, xyhich diffuse a perpetual cool.
After *he conquest of Cordova in 1236, St. Ferdinand transformed this mosque into
a cathedral, which preserved its ancient form up to the time of Charles V. In histimi
and since, it has experienced many changes, and some enlargement. On two sides ot
one of its sixteen gates, are placed two military columns, which were dug up in the ca-
thedral itself in 1532.
Besides this edifice and a collegiate church, Cordova has 15 churches, 40 convents,
and a number of religious establishments. Need we go farther to look for the origin of
its destitute state, and its want of population ? In so fine a climate, in midst of so many
sources of prosperity, it contains no more than 35,000 inhabitants. Formerly celebrated
for its manufactories of silks, fine cloths, 8cc. it has now no other industrious occupa'
tions, but a few manufactories of ribbons, galoons, hats, and baize. Its vicinity is the
most productive in grain and olive trees of all the district, but one of the most naked in
Spain. The traveller, however, ought not to leave Cordova without visiting its breed
of horses, the finest and best attended to of any in Andalusia. The stables [tcrtaining
to the establishment, which belong to the king, contained, in 1792, 612 horses of all
ages, aniiong which 21 Jtallions.
The kingdom of Cordova adjoins that of Grenada. In going from one capital to the
other you cross a great portion of the grounds belonging to Cordova. The most re-
markable places on the way are Fernan-nunez, from which one of the late ambassadors
to France took his name, and in which he founded some useful establishments ; Mon-
tilla^ whose territory produces an excellent but very dry vin de liqueur, little known out
of Spain, but highly esteemed by connoisseurs ; Baena, a town of a thousand houses ;
Alcala la Real, situated on a hill, and containing eight or nine thousand inhabitants ; and
lastly Pinos de la Puente at the entrance of the superb plain of Grenada.
I did not see it, and shall ever regret that I did not see this country, so well worthy
the curiosity of travellers, in which nature is at once grand and pleasing ; in which the
most picturesque scenery is found ; high mountains whose summits are eternally cover-
ed with snow, rich valleys whose freshness is proof against the most scorching heat, tor-
rents of limpid water, which plunge with dashing noise from the heights of precipices,
and flow along the meadows which they fertilize, but seldom sweep with floods ; this
happy country, which, under the combined influence of a burning sun and natural irri-
gation, produces the most delicious fruits of every climate ; plants which seem to belong
to the most opposite zones, the hemp of the North even growing beneath the shade of
the olive and the mulberry. I did not see that ancient city, which preserves entire the
monuments of the magnificence of the Arabs ; where every thing recals to memory that
active and industrious people, whose expulsion is one of the principal causes of the de-
cline of the arts in Spain. But this picture, which i have only sketched, has been painted
in an exact and engaging manner by one of my friends, now no more (Peyron) whose
description of the kmgdom of Grenada is one of the most interesting parts of his Essays
on Spain. But, if the reader be desirous of appreciating as an architect the famous cathe-
dral of Cordova (perhaps too much magnified) and take a view of that njagnificent palace
of the Moorish kings of Grenada, known by the name of the Athambra, he may refer to
the plans of those two monuments engraved by direction of the court of Spain in 1780,
a copy of which is in the national library of France.
' ■ 4 c 2
,K
:>(A
UOUKGOANNE 3 lUVVELS IN Sl'AIN.
Shall \vc coiiliiic ourselves to this first specimen of the curiosities of Spain? This
kingdom produces them of cv<ry description : traces of the sojourn of the Cariha-
giniuns still perceptible, master-pieces of Gothic architecture, Roman antiquities, monu-
ments of Moorish magnificence, scarcely injured by time, picturesque spots, In the
bosom of rocks fantastically grouped. On the summit of hoary mountains, in the
maze of vallies, on the banks of the torrents of the kingdom of Grenada, on the
coasts of the ocean, and the Mediterranean ; in the gardens and neighbourhood of St.
Ildefonso, within the residence, about the gloomy palace of the Escurial, in the cheer-
ful basin of Aranjuez, nay in a thousand places of Spain, the pencil of the artist is
invited. We have picturesque travels in Greece, Italy, and Sicily. These give room
Tor a desire on the part of the lovers of the arts, and the admirers of antiquity, for still
another of this description. Charles IV, might render his reign illustrious in satisfying
this common wish of all enlightened Europe. At this price he would have nothing to
envy in the monarch who has left him such a great example in reclaiming from the bow-
els of the earth, and restoring to the living, the ruins of Herculaneum.
Let us turn from this digression, brought on by the kingdom of Grenada, and re-
sume the road to Cadiz.
From Cordova to Ecija, are ten leagues of road, in great want of repairs which it
has lately undergone. The country itself has been peopled within these five-and-twen>
ty years by new colonists, whose dv/cUings are dispersed along the road.
After changing horses at the new and solitary Vinta de Mango Negro, you arrive at
Carlotta, a pretty village founded with the same view, and nearly at the same time, as
that of Carolina. These are the principal places of the new colonics of Andalusia.
The same intendant presides over both colonies. Carlotta, the capital of the second
colony, had no more than sixty inhabitants in 1791 ; but in itii neighbourhood were
six hundred.
Luisiana, another colony beyond Ecija, had then no more than two hundred and forty.
And lastly, a little further Fuenta Palmera, another village belonging to' these new esta-
blishments, counted within its district three hundred and fifty houses pertaining to
colonists.
It is a spectacle which philosop ly delights in contemplating, that of these colonies
created by intelligence and humanity. One is yet surprised at their slow progression.
Is it owing to any radical vice, to the want of that firm and resolute disposition, without
which nothing is well done ? Or is it to be imputed to an innate repugnance among
Spaniards to expatriate themselves, or change their abofi*^' ? Whence is it that so few co-
lonists are drawn by the hope of ameliorating their faie from the better peopled, but
more wretched parts of Spain, nay even from foreign countries, where a territory so
fertile invites them to ease, as that particularly of the neighbourhood of Ecija ? It is
said that the produce of the sand is Ibrty for one, and that the garden grounds, which
in great number border the banks of the Xenil, yield three and four crops in a year.
Do the Sciotto the Kentucky, which must be sought beyond the main, present more
powerful attractions ? Yes, for there man enjoys both civil and reli^ous liberty ; these
are yet wanting in Spain, which is all that it requires to become both prosperous and.
happy.
Ecija, a tolerably large town, and one of the most pleasant in Andalusia, is situated
between Carlotta and Luisiana. Many of its houses, and some of its churches are painted
on the outside, in a most ridiculous style. It has six thousand houses. Fragments of
marble columns, trunks of statues, stones covered with inscriptions, attest its ancient
splendour. Its situation between two hills on the western side of the Xenil, which
BOUnCOANNli's TKAVELS IN' Sl'AIX.
60.'»
win ? Thib
he Cartha-
:ics, monu-
)Ots, In the
lins, ill the
ida, on the
lood of St.
the cheer-
Jie artist is
give room
ly, for still
» satisfying
nothing to
m the bow-
da, and rt-
s which it
■and-twen-
u arrive at
le time, as
Andalusia,
he second
hood were
I and forty.
I new esta-
taining to
e colonies
egression,
n, without
ice among
so few co-
jpled, but
;rritory so
:ija ? It is
ids, which
in a year,
sent more
rty ; these
erous and.
is situated
re painted
gments of
ts ancient
til, which
Hows from Grenada through an an»ple plain, exposes it to intense heals, and frequent
inundations. This town and its neighbourhood possess all the elements of prosperity.
Plots of olive trees, luxurious fields, vineyards, and extensive pastures, produce its in-
habitants riches in abundanee : but they are destitute of those .minufactorit^ for which
thev were formerly celebrated. On entering the town you may behold, but cannot ad-
mire, the venerated image of St. Paul, the patron of the town, and at the opposite gate
vou see the statues of Charles III, the king, the queen, and the infant Don Louis.
^ Yrom Eeiia you mav perceive Estepa at five leagues distant on a hill, horn the op ol
which you have a commanding view, over a vast, and very fertile country, covered with
*" xVee leagues from Ecija, vou find Luisiana, a new colony, the houses of which some
years ago began to go to decay. This afflicting spectacle presents itselt again about a
ieaeue Lther, at a spot where these colonies of the Sierra xMorena terminate They be.
gin on the other side of the mountains at La Conception de Almuradiel, and comprise m
all a space of forty leagues. ... . , , i ^ i t
The road to connect them, an object long desired, is at length nearly completed. In
order to render it passable in all seasons, it has been found necessary to construct over
rivcrs,rivulets,and marshy places, rendered impracticable in rainy weather, nearly four
hundred bridges, as well large as small.
On leaving Luisiana, on a very bleak hilK you discern some of the houses of the town
of Carmona, which commands vast plains covered with olive trees, and extremely fertile,
especially in wheat and that of the most superior quality. It is a cheerM animated town.
Good taste, however, is offended at its principal belfry, a modern bauble badly modelled
after the spire of Seville, and loaded with whimsical ornaments of different colours.
The eate of Carmona is a monument of the solidity of Roman works. It appears
to be of the time of Trajan, tmd in some places has been ridiculously patched by modern
^From Carmona to Seville, is six leagues, which you travel over between vineyards,
olive erounds, and robust aloes, which serve at the sime time for hedges and orna.
ment to the fields. Will it be credited ? This love.y country is almost wholly unm-
^The great road from Madrid to Cadiz does not pass as it used to do through Seville,
but through the borough of Alcala, two leagues higher up on the banks of the Uuadal-
quivir Who would not diverge from the road to view this famous town, the second
in the kingdom, that of which the Andalusians, who are the Spanish Gascons, have long
been used to say,
Quien no ha visto Sevilla
No ha visto maravilla.*
The way about is not bad, but the Sevillians have come to a resolution to join their
town to the high road by a superb causeway.
* He who has not seen Seville, has yet a wonder to behold.
'iO(5
bourgoanwe's travels i.v sr.vi.v.
CHAPTER V.
8EVILLK. XERKS. ARCOS. APPROACHKS TOWARD) C. DU.
THE situnlioi) of Seville is admirable, its climate delicious, its environs ilrtile. But
V hat little advantage has been reajied from so many blcssinj^s ! Or rather how different
is its present to the former state of this town ! The historians of the day assure that
when taken by St. Ferdinand 400 thousand Moors marched o\it of its gates, exclusive of
those who perished during the siege, and such as chose to remain. If the complaint
addicssed by the manufacturers to government in 1700, be credited, Seville formerly
employed 16,000 looms for silks, and in the different processes for making that article
not less than 130,000 persons. At present they have 2318 looms; and no more than
from 18 to 19 thousand inhabited houses.
Its cathedral, famous all over Spain, contains a number of statues, many of which pos-
sess merit, tombs, more or less decorated, and vast chapels, overloaded with ornan\ents.
Among those of the baptismal fonts, two paintings richly deserve notice ; they are by that
charmmg painter born at Seville, and which contains his principal productions, produc-
tions which were long wanted for the collection of the kings of France, and which at
length make a part of the national museum, they are by Murillo. Nine other paintings,
by this artist, are seen in the capitulary hall, in which all other ornament might well be
spared, and two in the vestry. In the chapel of kings, among other tombs that of St.
Ferdinand is noticed, covered with inscriptions in Hebrew, Arabic, Latin, and Spanish ;
thatof AlphonsoX, surnamed the wise, or the astronomer, 8cc. But the tombs of none
of the monarchs make so profound an impression, or so much awakens the mind to the
memory of ancient days, as that of Christopher Colon, placed before the choir with the
following inscription, remarkable for its brevity :
A Castilla y Arragon,
Otro mtindo dio Colon.
His son Don Ferdinand who, but for his fame being eclipsed by that of his father,
might pass for a great man, has his tomb in one of the chapels ; but his epitaph is not so
beautiful, it is longer, not equally simple.
The spire of this cathedral, known by the name of the Giralda, is one of the fine mo-
numents of Spain. You ascend it by a spiral gallery without steps. It is 250 feet
high, and has on its top a statue representing Faith ; above one of the five naves of the
church is the library, which contains 20,000 volumv.s. This is not a collection merely
for ostentation at Seville. Next to the capital, this is the town which contains the great-
est number of enlightened men. Its patriotic society may cite more than one member
distinguished for learning and patriotism. A taste for the fine arts in particular is much
cultivated at Seville ; its inhabitants pride themselves on having several masters of the
Spanish school, for countrymen, such as Roclas, Vargas, Zurburan, and especially the
incomparable Murilla, whose talents cannot be properly valued except by those who
have seen the numerous master-pieces which he has left behind him in Spain. The hos-
pital of charity contains ten, which excite the highest admiration in connoisseurs. In
one of the cloisters of the convent of St. Francis, are eleven ; and lastly, at that of the
capuchins, one is delighted with several paintings by this great master, particularly with a
Christ, who detaches himself from the Cross, with the most moving expression of kind-
ness, to er'*rtice St. Francis.
BOITRCOAKNE S TRAVELS I^f SFAIV.
567
Besides these master-pieces of painting, and others of the Spanish school, many rc-
markablc buildings deserve notice at Seville.
At the head of these stands the exchange, or Loriga, a distinct building, each front
of which is 200 feet long. It has lately Ijcen rej)aired and ornamented, and is to be
the repository of all old papers relative to Spanish America ; archives of valorous deeds,
of misfortunes, and crimes, in which history and philosophy will long have treasures
to find.
The Alcazar is a magnificent edifice, begun and for a long time inhabited by the
Moorish kings, it was enlarged by the king Don Pedro, and afterwards by Charles V,
who added some tasty embellishments. Many Spanish kings have resided in it, and
Philip V, who passed some time there with all his court, felt inclined to fix there hisi
abode ; a project which, separate from political considerations, would probably before
this have taken place, to the great satisfaction, if those of Madrid be excepted, of all
the inhabitants of Spain.
In this Alcazar are collected several fragments of ancient statues, discovered at some
distance from Seville. This precious harvest is principally due to the attention of
Don Francisco Bruno, an enlightened antiquarian, and a zealous and indefatigable
citizen, who is an honour to his country.
Another building, which shews a deal of taste, is the tobacco and snuff manufactory,
completed in 1757 ; a prodigious establishment, as well for the size of the edifice as
the number of hands it employs. There the tobacco in leaves is received as it comes
from the Havanna, where but a small quantity is manufactured ; the details of the
manufacture of this article are not uninteresting. In making of snufF, the leaves are
first reduced to powder, a kind of ochre is then prepared (almazarron) with which it is
mixt to give it its colour. The snuff'thus mixed is inclosed in little tin boxes, registered,
ticketed, put into bales, and sent over all parts of the peninsula. A separate apart-
ment is destined to the forming the little rolls, called Cigars, the consumption of which
is so considerable in Spain. It would be difiicult to find, in so small a space, either
greater activity or more variety of occupations.
The foundery of copper cannon, which, with that of Barcelona, supplies all the
Spanish arsenals in Europe, is also a building remarkable for its extent and the excel-
lent manner in which it is planned. The method of M. Maritz is still followed there,
with some trifling variations. But there is great room for a saving in the expenccs of
this establishment. Each quintal of refined copper, some years ago, cost the king
^bout fifty rials (ten shillings and three-pence.^ A little before then, a Frenchman
proposed to the king a method which would have made a saving of twenty-two reals a
quintal. The proposition was rejected. The Frenchman persisted, and the proofs at
which the Spaniards vouchsafed to be present, that they might not too openly betray their
ill will, shewed the excellence of the copper refined and cast according to his method :
but intrigue, which was not idle on this occasion, found means to prevent the experi-
ment from being any further prosecuted ; and I understand that the expensive establish,
ment^ formed at Port Rial opposite to Cadiz, is limited to furnishing copper bolts for
shipping.
The mint is one of the most ancient buildings in Seville. It formerly was greatly
employed. Writers of the day affirm that the coinage in gold and silver together was
to the amount of seven hundred marks daily. For a long time no other money was
coined there, except for the use of individuals. It is only since 1718 that coin has
been struck for the king's account.
•
;r>8
BOUnCOANME 3 mAVtLS IM SPAIN.
To these arc to be added the seminary of St. Tchne, which is a school for pilotage,
and the golden tower (Del Oro) an old building attributed to the Romans. Its obicct
was, without doubt, to facilitate navigation. Here it as that a chain was extended by
the Moors across tlic (niadalquivir to the suburb of Triana, on the opposite bank.
This river has its source on one side of the chain of mountains called Sierra de Scgura,
and takes its course towards die ocean ; while the Sigiira, which rises on the opposite
side, runs towards the Mttliterranean ; down this stream is floated the ship-timber re-
quisite for the supply of Murcia, Orihuda, and Carthagena, with diflerent other descrip-
tions of wood which al)ound in the mountains.
It was to the GuadaUiuivir that Seville owed its ancient grandeur. At the period
of its greatest lustre the largest vessels came up to the (luays of Seville, and those of infe-
rior burthen proceeded as high up as Cordova. At present ships of great draught come
up no higher than Bonanza, a village fifteen leagues from Sjvilio, whcnci; the cargoes
arc brought up in lighter'^ ; none above eiglity tons biirthen being able to ascend so high
as to the city.
Some principal buildings adorn that part of the batiks of tlie Ciuadalquivir, whicli
fronts the suburb of Triana. There it was that Lcrena, while inlendant of Andalusia,
began a plantation which has since become a delightful promenade ; and which, when
its shades shall become somewhat thicker, will leave no room for the inhabitants to envy
the capital in this respect. Already was the city indebted to M. Olavides for a part of
its wharves and several useful establishments, when he was separated from them. The
anathemas of the Inquisiticjn have prevented his name from being publicly mentioned,
but have not been able to prevent a general afllction for his memory.
The interior of the city possesses a fine walk adorned with fountains, and formed by
five rows of trees, whose roots are watered b) little canals.
The neighbourhood of Seville, in common with that of most of the towns of Anda-
lusia, is well cultivated. As you leave the bare and unpeopled plains of Castile and
Murcia, you sec with pleasure its orchards and its country houses.
But what above all render the neighI)()urhood of Seville deserving the attention of the
traveller, are the ruins of Italica, an ancient Roman town, the birth-place of Silius
Italicus. It was situated north of Seville, a league and a half distant, along the left bank
of the Guadalquivir. The monuments of it which yet remain are preserved from the
injuries of time and ignorance by the care of some monks, wliose convent is in their vi-
cinity. M. Broussonet, having lately travelled through Spain, has since published an
interesting account of Italica and its ruins. ^^^
The modern road from Carmena to Cadiz presents nodiing remarkable before you
reach Xercs, unless it be the town of Utrera, which has two thousand houses.
As you go to Xeres you have a very favourable view of the town. A little energy
would make it one of the most interesting that Spain can boast. A more delightful site
ould not have been chosen ; and its streets are in general both wide and straight. From
the summit of the Alcazar, which is greatly frequented, you have the most agreeable
prospects imaginable over the adjaceiu country.
The territory requires nothing more than a greater attention to its culture to make
it one of the most fertile countries in Europe. Produce of every description succeeds
there ; vineyards, which form its principal reliance, olive-grounds, pastures, fir, oak,
hemp, &c. Its vineyards, notwithstanding their imperfect state, yield, communibus
annis, 360,000 arrobes of wine (10,000 pipes) of which about 200,000 are exported,
principally by the English and French. The cultivation of wheat might be. doubled.
Neglected as it is at present, it subjects the country to frequent dearth.
bourcoakne's travels i.v stain.
36y
Olive-grounds arc in a state of still inferior improvement ; seldom does the annual
crop exeeed 32,000 arrobes of oil (110,000 gallons.) Silk-worms would flourish here,
and give work to thousands of women who are destitute of employment.
Its breed of horses has greatly declined, as well as every other of its former sources of
wealth ; its foals, which are yet the best in Andalusia, at three years old arc destined
for the cavalry; but sonic years ago they were no more than 600 marcs in all its ex-
tensive territory.
Some coarse cloths, made from the 3000 arrobes of wool which it produces, sonic
manufactories of linen, and about a score of looms for making ribbons ; these are the
whole of the occupations it possesses for the industry of its inhabitants ; and even Tor
these they are indebted to the cares of a patriotic school, and some beneficent indi-
viduals.
Half a league from Xeres is one of the most famous Chartreuses in Spain, for its
wealth and its agreeable position, within sight of Cadiz. Such as admire the fine arts
resort hither to view the best works of Turbaran, and some by the inexhaustible Luce
Giordano. The silent inhabitants of this delightful asylum almost extort forgiveness
of their opulence, and pious idleness, by their tender solicitude for the two mostin<
teresting periods of life. They are beginning to educate thirty poor children belonging
to the neighbouring town, and a dozen of old men incapable of labour pass with them
tranc^uilly the ebb of life.
Two great leagues thence the town of Arcos is situated. To reach it you ford
through the Guadalete, the river of oblivion of the ancients. Arcos is a town of two
thousand five hundred houses, situated in the centre of the most fertile country, sur-
rounded by orange-trees ; it is built on an inaccessible rock, whence are perceived the
mountains of Ronda, Medina, Sidonia, and Gibraltar. The Guadalete partly encom-
passes Arcos, and rolls its noisy course through the bottom of a deep and crooked valley,
where it seems to force ^or itself the channel poets feign.
From the Chartreuse of Xeres to the modern town called He de Leon you travel four
leagues without seeing even a cottage, After fording the Guadalete, you enter the
vast plain wherein the battle was fought which put an end to the empire of the Goths,
and placed Spain for some centuries under dependance on the Arabs, and at the same
reach the confines of the ancient Boetica. This combination of objects, which recal
the ingenious invention of a fable, and great achievements of history, the bounty of na-
ture, and the ingratitude of those who so ill repay her gifts, give stead to deep reflec-
tion. One is induced to compare the boundless field of imagination with the narrow
limits that idleness prescribes to industry ; seducing chimeras to lamentable reality ; one
admires the illustrious authors of these wonders, and pities the modern actors on so fine
a stage who play so ill their ^arts. But we approach now the theatre of commerce,
Cadiz lays before us.
The first prospect of its bay is from the top of a hill midway between Xeres and
Port St. Mary. Thence you view the whole of the bay, as if upon a map. You distin-
guish clearly the two points which form its mouth, the fort of St. Sebastian on the one
side, and the town of Rota on the other, Cadiz laying in front. You see the narrow
tongue of low land which divides that town from the 11 de Leon ; the irregular figure
of the bay as it inclines to the Carrack, Port Real, and Port St. Mary.
Thus must chains of mountains, towns, and the sinuosities of rivers, have appeared to
those hardy rivals of the inhabitants of the air ; those aerial travellers, whose brilliant
intrepidity has of late years excited our wonder.
VOL. V. 4 n
t
370
B01;RC0ANN£*3 travels in SPAIN.
From Xcres you have the choice of two roads, that which goes round the bay by land,
and that which proceeds fttruight to Cadii! crossing the bay. If you decide in favour of
the first, after passing the Chartreuse, you travel through woods of pine, the proprietors of
which, by their early felling, prevent them growing to that maturity which might fit them
for the navy. Beyond these woods you discover the pretty towns of Port St. Mary and
Port Real. You leave them on the right, as well as the Guadalete which a little lo\vcr
divides into two branches. One empties itself in front of the bar of Port St. Mary ; the
other directs its course towards Puerto Real, and takes the name of St. Pedro. You
afterwards perceive the superb modern road which leads to Cadiz ; this little river is
crossed over the bridge of Suazo, the opposite side of which is the Isle of Leon, thus
called on account of the portion of land wnich composes it, being surrounded by a very
ancient navigable canal, which is from 22 to 24 feet deep at high water. In another
place I shall make further mention of this road and of the Isle of Leon.
If in going to Cadiz you determine on crossing the bay, you take freight in one of
the large boats, whose owners pester you with their offers of service on your reaching
Port St. Mary, and in less than an hour are transported to the quays at Cadiz.
Port St. Mary is situated nigh the mouth of the Guadalfte. which by driving its sands
into the bay, forms a bar not passed without some danger, particularly in winter. The
boatmen, whose interest it is to keep the passengers alive to fear, never fail exaggerating
the danger ; and in the moment when it is most eminent, recite a prayer, which they
allerwards beg payment for ; but the most timid passengers, nay even the greatest de-
votees, have more confidence in the skill of their conductors tlian in the efficiency of
their prayers.
CHAPTER VL
DKtiCnil'TION OF
i
CADIZ, ITS NEW ESTABLI8HMRNTS, ITA PORT. OF THE C ARRACK.
ISLE OP LEON, THE MAGAZINES, THE OOCK-YARDS.
OF THB
WHEN I arrived at Cadiz, in 1785, O'Reilly was governor, or rather reigned there ;
and it must be allowed that under his reign this town experienced changes for the better
of every description. Cadiz owes to him its embellishment, augmentation and cleanli-
ness ; I cannot add i* ^ security. At that time murders were very frequent in the city,
and since then are not less common.
Under this active management the old houses were pulled down, to give place to new
ones regularly built ; the streets were paved, made straighter, and constantly kept clean,
and the waste ground was covered with new houses. He may be reproached even with
excess of oBconomy with respect to this ground. In several triangular spaces houses
were built which, without convenience for those who inhabited them, seemed to have no
object but that of incommoding their neighbours. He even endeavoured to extend
the confines of the city by gaining space from the sea. The ground upon which the
custom-house stands, and that adjacent, was formerly covered by the watery element,
but this was anterior to his administration. He meditated another project of the same
kind.
He wished to take possession of the ground of the Alameda, a walk by the sea side
near the bay, the trees of which bear the visible marks of its neighbourhood. His in-
tention was to build there, and to lengthen the space, by raising to a level with it that
part of the shore which runs towards the inner part of the city ; and on the outer bank
of the new enclosure he intended to plant a new alley of trees. But to effect this kind
of miracle, funds were necessary, and stones and rubbish sufficient to fill up the exten*
sive space he projected to ^in from the sea»
DOVnCOANNE's TRAVKL3 IN SPAIV.
571
y by land,
favour of
jrictors of
u fit them
Mary and
ttlc Io\vcr
^ary ; the
. You
c river is
con, thus
by a very
\ another
in one of
reaching
^ its sands
er. The
ggerating
lich they
L-atest de>
iciency of
or TRB
ed there ;
the better
d cleanli-
\ the city,
:e to new
ept clean,
;ven with
s houses
) have no
0 extend
vhich the
element,
the same
: sea side
His in-
th it that
Iter bank
this kind
le exten-
He bestowed much attention on the cml)cllishmcnt of the neighbourhood of the gate
on the land side, which was formerly covered with briars, and served as an asylum for
robbers. Under the administration of one of his predecessors, gardens were laid out, and
several houses built there. At the time of the dispute relative to the Falkland Islands,
the pusillanimous governor fancied the place in danger, and the enemy close to the gates,
entrenched behind these weak experiments of industry, and in const(|uence destroyed
the houses.
Under the administration of the count dc Xerena, predecessor to count O'Reilly, it
was intended to rebuild them; but they did not acquire an agreeable form till the latter
became governor. He extended the cultivation of the isthmus from the side of the
great road which leads from Cadiz to the island of Leon, and created a garden (notwith-
standing the sand) as agreeable in appearance as a soil of such nature would allow, which
he inclosed with an open railing. His example was imitated by the neighbours ; so that
for a quarter of a league from the land gate the road is bordered with similar fences,
which, by their uniformity, seem to belong to the same proprietor. The neighbourhood
of the sea, the heat of the climate, and the nature of the soil, the sand of which it is not
possible to cover with good earth above a certain height, are visible in the produce of
this cultivation ; but it is not the less delightful to sec verdure, and gather flowers and
fruits in a soil which so many circumstances seem to condemn to sterility. While walk-
ing in the garden of the assessor Mora, and that of the governor, which joins it, and
viewing all the rich productions of Andalusia, the vines, mulberry and olive trees that
flourish there, we forget the nature of the ground on which we tread, and the element
by which it is almost surrounded. In time, these environs of the land gate were to form
a kind of suburb ; and a church was already built, a cjuarter of a league from the city,
for those who resided in that neighbourhood.
But these wonders very shortly survived the administration of their author. The sand
has resumed its empire over the disputed space, and the traces of the garden of O'Reilly,
and that of the assessor Mora, arc now scarcely discernible.
But nothing does more honour to the zeal, understanding, and humanity of count
O'Reilly than the Hospitiuin, which owes to him, if not its iirst establishment, at least
the admirable form given it in the course of the year 1785. Within the same edifice
succour was afforded to every class of subjects who had claim either to the care or in-
spection of government ; to the aged of both sexes, to incurables, vagabonds, prosti>
tutes, the insane, and children of both sexes whom their parents were incapable of main-
taining. Each class was placed in spacious and well aired apartments. Every person
was furnished with food and employment according to his age and situation. Poor fa-
milies found an asylum there, nor did the number of them alarm the beneficence of go-
vernment. However, to prevent abuses, the commissary of each quarter was obliged to
present weekly to the governor, an account of all the persons of both sexes entitled to
charitable assistance. The governor examined the statement, and wrote his directions
in the margin. In the seventeen divisions of which Cadiz was composed, there were
fourteen in which not one person found a difficulty in gaining a livelihood, or was de-
prived of the succour necessary to render life supportable ; and before the disgrace of
O'Reilly, these benefits were extended to the whole city.
The good order constantly maintained in this institution was the fruit of his continual
inspection. He was well seconded by several citizens of distinction, who, some from
sentiments of humanity, and others to make their court to him, divided among them-
selves the direction of the different apartments of the hospital. Their presence seemed
to inspire respect and confidence. They restored serenity, and brought back hope and
4 D 2
V.
h
^<f
.•>72
UOUBOOANNl'S travels XH SPAIN.
joy. Probtiiutcs and the inAunc were the only persons deprived of liherly ; itidividiinli
of ever}' otlitr class went out in compiuiics nt eertaiu hourh. None hut the af^ed and in-
firm were exempt from labour. Such as wire capable of workinf^ were mostly em-
ployed in cardiiijj;, spiiuiing, and weaving the cotton imported from the colonies of
America. In 1785, there were more looms, 8tc. than hands to employ them. The
excess ofstufl's manufactured above what were; sulBcient for the consumptiott of its ir-
habitants, was sold to increase the funds of iht: establishment. To those which existed
before M. O'Keilly became j^overncr, he added the produce of certain pieces of ground
belonging to the city. In addition to these the charity of the citi^'.ens was evidenced by
considerable contributions. Since the retirement of O'Ueilly, this admirable establish-
ment has somewhat degenerated, und in succeeding ycaii beggars again made their up.
peurance.
It would have been difticult to fmd successors cc)ually active with him, or who should
have taken so much delight in the prosperity of hiu institution. O'Reilly had a peculiar
talent of making every circumstance and every passion subservient to his purpose. His
despotic character was dreaded. The mere expression of a wish was to those around
him equivalent to a command ; while by his insinuating manners he engaged the inha-
bitants of Cadiz, who w ere of all people those the least devoted to him, to contribute
their time, their carriages, and Uieir horses, to objects which were nominally for the
public good, but which were frequently no other than the oflspring of caprice. Cadiz
owes also to him the repair of the road which leads to Leon. A Frenchman was charged
with the work (l)u Bournial)an engineer for bridges and high-'ays, whom he had sent
for from France to employ in his military school of Port St. Mary. This road, which
is on leaving Cadiz a quarter of a league in breadth, narrows so considerably at the dis-
tance of a league from the town, that the sea at high water bathes both sides of the cause<
way on which you travel, which has the appearance of a mole protruded by the bold
hand of man on the abyss of the ocean. Du Bournial raised this road, rendered it more
solid, and shorter, and acquired a title to the gratitude of the inhabitants of Cadiz.
O'Reilly was desirous of employing him upon a work of more considerable magni-
tude, or at least of greater parade, ft is well known that Cadiz is destitute of good
water. As a bad substitute they use an unwholesome brackish water, which they draw
from wells that are supplied by the rain, which is conducted into them from the internal
court of each house. The remainder of the water which they consume is collected in
azoteas. These are flat roofs, in the form of u terrace, with which almost every house
in Cadiz is furnished, I may say adorned, and serving as well for a promenade and ob-
servatory for the inhabitants ; ever anxious and upon the look out for those objects the
darling of their hopes.
From these azoteas the rain-water runs through pipes into the arrive or cistern, which
occupies the interior part of the house, not covered over, and thence into a well in the
corner of the court. For the sameness of the necessities of the inhabitants (the result of
their position) has occasioned in this city a perfect uniformity in the figure and distribu-
tion oi* aimot>^ all the buildings.
These then are the only resources of the inhabitants for obtaining the water necessary
for their domestic wants. As for that which they drink, they are obliged to fetch it
from the springs of Port St. Mary, which however in dry weather are not competent to
the demand upon them, not(Vithstanding 96,000 piastres (16,0001.) be annually paid
for the precarious contribution they afford ; a real inconvenience for a town so popu-
lous, a port which is the place of departure of so many merchant vessels and ships of
UUURCOANN£ 8 TRAVILI IN SPAIN.
573
I.
ivulimls
I and ill.
tly cm-
onicH or
r its II'.
cxi'.t'.d
ground
need by
iitahlish-
their up.
should
peculiar
9SC. His
J around
he inha-
)n tribute
for the
Cadiz
charged
had sent
I which
the dis-
le cause-
the bold
d it more
iz.
'■ mngni.
of good
ley draw
internal
lectcd in
•y house
and ob-
ccis the
I, which
II in the
•csult of
istribu-
;cessary
fetch It
etent to
lly paid
) popu-
hips of
wflr. O'Reilly, in order to nmcdy this inconvcnicnco, projected the plan of conduct,
ing a stream of Irish waicr Ironi the heights of Medina Sidonia, a distance of eleven
leagues. Already had he calculated with the engineer I)u Hournial that the completion
of this canal would iioi coaf more than two millions of piastres (3:33,(KK)I.) and as
early as the month of Au|;ust 17H5 more than half the sum wan subscribed. l)u Hour-
nial had surveyed and taken the level of the whole extent, and ski tched out the whole
of the plan, fie had discovered the traces of an ancient canal cut by the Komans for
the same purpose, the l)rtl of which was to serve in great measure for the new canal.
Many detractors opposed this brilliant enterprise ; but m spite of them it was begun :
it did not, however, proceed more than half a league. The disgrace of O'Reilly put u
stop to the project, and the mhabitants of Cadiz continue to fett'li their water from Port
St. Mary.
Another project of equal magnitude, but of far superior utility, has latterly been
completely executed. I sneak of the work designed to shelter from the nigc of the sea
that part of the city of Cadiz which lays towards the south between Fort St. Sebastian
and Matadero. It is doubtless owing to its ravage that a great part of the island upon
which the city is built has been worn away. In the seventeenth century it destroyed a
number of buildings ; and at that time some such plan was contemplated as latterly has
been put in execution. At the beginning of the present century a kind of rampart in
shape of a dam was opposed to the sea, but it had been so much undermined, that Cadiz
at high tides, and in stormy weather, was liable to imminent danger. It became ne-
cessary every year to repair the injuries committed by the waves ; and the engineers
employed on the repairs were no ways interested in drying up the sources of such a lu-
crative occupation. Under the reign of Charles III, the government at length thought
seriously of securing Cadiz from the danger with which it was menaced. From among
a many plans tendered them in 1786, they adopted that of Don Thomas Manoz, an
officer of distinction, and a man of merit, who deserves to be ranked among men of
genius, and the benefactors of his country. His plan consisted in forming along the
walla sort of beach, solid, and in talus, against which the waves might spend their first
strength, and afterwards flow calmly on to the foot of the city. In the first place, enor-
mous pillars have been built in advance to divide the waves, which afterwards strike
upon the artificial beach behind them. It is foiuided on large flint stones, which it re<
quired great pains to flx with any solidity in the ground, and which are joined together
by a kind of cement that hardens in water. This work was begun in 1788, and was
finished in three years, notwithstanding the work could only be carried on at low water
from the beginning of May to the end of September. The happy results of the expe-
dient are daily witnessed. The waves no longer reach the top of the wall, or ap-
proach it but in a gentle manner ; whereas before the shock of them was so violent,
that the neighbouring buildings not only felt it, but were inundated by them, the spray
flying over the top of the cathedral. The work is said to have cost fourteen millions of
piastres (2,333,0001.) but it was impossible for ihe Spanish government to have laid out
money to greater advantage, or in a more honourable manner. The sea opposite to
the shore thus threatened has retired in proportion to its eflbrts on the south side, so
that certain parts of the beach are dry where formerly vessels used to swim.*
The bay of Cadiz is so extensive that there are distinct stations for diflerent ships,
according to the places for which they are destined. In front, but at a certain distance
from the town, those vessels are moored which arrive from European ports. More to-
• It is with pain we undcrstutul thut the success of the works at the port of Cadiz is not to la^ting^
aa could be desired.
.^1
A74
ROirRCOANMK'l TRAVtLI IN SI'AIN.
words the east, In the canni of Trocadrro, the vcswis employed in the South American
trade urc mourcd and tmri^((ed. At the bottom of the canal m Nitnati-d the nntty borough
of Port Real, and on itn banks arc the warehoiiscii, arsenals, and dock-vanU lor merchant
vessels. 'I'hc entrance of Trotadcro it defended by two forts, one called Mataj;;ordo,
upon the continent ; the other, fort Louis, built by I)u((uay Trouin, on a little itland
viiible at low water. 'I'he lire from these two forts crosses that of one of the Puntales
on the opposite shore. Yo<i are consetpiently exposed to the fire of these batteries in
sailing from the gnat bay to that of Puntaks, ut the bottom of which the vessels of the
royal navy when disarmed are moored, close to the magazines. 'I'hc gnat space these
occupy, and w hich land and sea dis|iute with each other, is washed on the west by the
river Sacti I'etri, and is known by the name of the Carrack (la Caracca.) The court of
Spain rig(jr()iisly interdicts the admissiori of any strangers. The governor replies to any
address for seeing it, that it is not allowed without a formal order from the king. How.
ever there are means of doing without It. You may go to the isle of Leon, a modern
town, begun about the middle of the last centurv, and uhich has in( reused prodigiously
in size within so short a space of time. In 17U0 there were 40,000 communicants, a
tolerably certain base in Spain for calculating the population of a place. Its principal
street is fidl a (piarter of a ienguc in length, and has a good appearance, in spite of the
bad taste with w hich its houses are uniformly decorated. The isLtiid of Leon, however,
resembles but little the other towns of Spain. There reigns in it nn air of cleanliness
and comfort. It has n uell furnished market, and a spacious s(|uare, regularly built.
The college of marines has been transferred from Cadiz to the isle of Leon, in the inter-
val of the completion of the new J)uilding that is in hand for its reception at the new
coloi^y of San Carlos, adjoining the C. -rack, wiicrc is to be united in one place all that
belongs to a perfect establishment of marines.
The isle of Leon is separated from the Carrack by a basin nine hundred feet long,
by six hundred in breadth, whence flow two canals, one proceeding to sea, the other to
the Carrack. From this city, across an arm of the sea, to the Carrack is about a quarter
of n league. You may gain admittance uithon* much difficulty if in company with
some privileged person, and survey the contents oi its arsenals. The lodgings of the
galley-slaves, and the rope-yard, arc worthy of afi> uration ; the building is six hundred
yards long, and has as good an appearance as that rif Brest. Those who have compared
the cordage and cables of the principal dock -yards and magazines in Europe, affirm that
in this respect the navy of Spain is not inferior to any, and that its cordage is better
made and more durable from this circumstance, that in combing the hemp all thetowy
part others leave in is taken out, and made use of in caulking ; whence results the double
advantage of having more solid cordage and better caulking materials for vessels.
Until lately the Spaniards imported their hemp from the north, they will very soon be
.able to do without the assistance, in this article, of any other nation. The kingdom of
Granada has for some years furnished them with the greatest part of the hemp they use;
they likewise receive some from Arragon and Navarre.
The warehouses contain a great (piantity of sheets of copper ; but hitherto they are all
brought from Sweden or Trieste. The Spaniards do not yet know how to refine cop-
per well enough to use that from Mexico in bottoming their ships. Their first adoption
of this practice was at the beginning of the American war. A few years ago the court
established flatting- mills at Ferrol, which it is likely are not yet in full activity. It is a
matter of astonishment that an invention of so much utility should not have been sooner
adopted in acountrv possessing a navy, manufactories of every description, and at least
the outlines of all the arts. The reason is that in Spain almost every thing, even at
DOURftO ANNi's IMAVtLS IN tPAIK.
575
pre^icnt, procccdH but slowly, that the moHtbcncflcial Innovations, p;cncr!illy badly patro-
nizcd, arc urtcntiii)r!tupp()>icd \vithali the ubMiiiacy of prrjudicc, with ;ill the bittmicsM
of envy ; and that the ((()vernm(.r)t itstelf mcch Uh power limited by the |)n«ision4 ut' thunc
whu iiHurp and abiine its conlUU nee.
In npite of ihcHC oijhtacles h«)a'«vtr, modern timcfi display many succcfttrid plans result*
ing from the perhevenuicc of the iuveittorH, and the despotism ofnccesiiity. The work of
Don Thomas Munoz at Cadiss is a proof of this. The same port exhibits a second.
Little more than twenty years ago, vessels of war were neither built here nor refitted,
and when it was Ibund necessary to careen a ship, it was used to be aftbcted on pontoons.
M. de Valdis, when subinsiKctor of the Carrack, recommended the plan of building u
dock ; ai\d, when mised to tlie situation of minister of the navy, caused it to be put in
execution. The nature of the soil hcemrd to render the project impracticable. It is n
sort of cLiy which easily gives way, seemingly participating in the mobility of the element
which surrounds it, and with which it is s;iturated. It was in the most elevated j)art of
this ground, that the first basin was begun in the month of August 1785. At that pc*
riod 1 saw the forest of piles driven, upon which u bed of stone was to be laid to give
the basin a solidity, against which every thing seemed to conspire. The engineers who
directed the works scarcely looked for success ; their purpose seemed to meet new ob-
stacles daily. Art and persevenince at length triumphed over everv difficulty, and in
the year 1787, instead of one basin at the Carrack, there were two lor the building of
vessels of sixty-four guns. At the present moment there arc three, two of which arc in
full activity.
Wc must not forget to observe, that there is a school for pilots at Cadiz, a naval
academy, and a very substantial observatory, extremely commodious and well furnished
with excellent instruments. It was for a long time under the direction of Don Vicento
Tusino, lately dead, who observed the transit of Venus in 1769.
It is farther a difficult matter at present to find a more complete establishment of ma-
vines than that at Cadiz.
CHAPTER VII.
I '
I
DETAILS RELATIVE TO THE COMMERCE OF CADIZ. TREATMENT OP THE VRENCH AT THAT PORTi
PRIVILEOES ENJOYED KY roUKIUNERt. NEW TARIFF. SMUOOLINO.
BUT what above every thing else establishes the importance of Cadiz, that which puts
it on a level with the most considerable cities in the world, is the immensity of its com-
merce. In 1795 it could boast more than one hundred and ten proprietors of ships,
and six hundred and seventy commercial firms, without including retailers or shopkeep-
ers, or the French, who had been obliged to quit the city in consequence of the war. A
furthtr idea of its trade may be gidhered from a knowledge of the number of vessels of
diflerent burthen which enter at its port. In 1776 this number was nine hundred and
forty-nine, comprising vessels of all nations, of which two hundred and sixty. five were
French.
The war whi^h succeeded diminished for a time the extent of our relations with Ca-
diz; but, on the return of peace, it ap^icared rather to augment than decrease. For-
merly no vessels belonging to our nation entered Cadiz from any port of Europe north
of Cadiz. Latterly we have become more familiarized with the northern seas ; and
many of our ships have been dispatched from that port for Hamburgh and Amsterdam,
and been freighted back afterwards for Cadiz.
The relations of this port with the rest of Europe in 1791 were as follows : one thou-
sand and ten vessels entered ; of which 180 were English ; 176 Spanish from America t
II
^•>^'l
-^
576
BOURGOANNE's travels in SPAIN.
90 Americans; 80
Venclian ; 1 Hum-
162 Spanish from Europe ; 116 French only ; 104 Portuguese ;
Dutch; 41 Daniah ; 25 Swedish; 22 Ragusan ; 6 Genoese ; 2
burgher ; 1 Russian ; 1 Austrian ; and 1 Spanish from Manilla.
The 176 Spanish vessels from the colonies with the vessel from Manilla brought in
gold and silver, coined or in bars, and plate to the value of 25,788,175 hard dollars,
equal at 4s. Gd. each to 5,800,3391. 7s. Cd.
The trade from Cadiz to Spanish America continued at that period to be very con-
siderable. In the course of that year 1791, 35 vessels sailed thence for the West In-
dian islands, 20 for Vera Cruz, 16 for Montevideo, 7 for Lima, 8 for Honduras, 5 for
Carthagcna ; in all 105.
The French ports w hieh trade to Cadiz are Marseilles, Havre de Grace, Rouen, Mor-
laix, St. Malo, Bayonnc, Bourdeaux, Nantes, and St. Valery. The gradation in which
they are named shews the pre-eminence of the transactions of the different towns with
this port. Before the Revolution, which will occasion more than one modification of
our relations with commercial Spain, Marseilles exported to Cadiz, communibus annis,
various merchandise to the amount of 12,000,000, in which silk and gilt works formed
the principal articles. Woollen goods were the chief exports from Rouen and Havre
de Grace. Morlaix and St. Malo shipped linens, which was also one of the principal
articles of the trifling adventures from Nantes. From Bourdeaux and Bayonne little
but flour and bacon was expedited ; and from St. V^alery cloths of the manufacture of
Amiens alone.
The foreign houses most numerous at Cadiz belong to Irish, Flemings, Genoese, and
Germans; of the latter the rhief part are Hamburghers, who are much favour<d by
.^^cic^u treaties with Spain, and who, of quiet manners but adventurous and persever-
ing, are r>ddicted to all branches of connnerce. They made a good use of their pro-
fits ; having established among themselves a society for the relief of their necessitous
countrymen.
The English and French have the smallest number of establishments at Cadiz of any
of the commercial nations, notwithstanding which the extent of their commerce with
this city is very considerable. Fifteen years ago there were fifty French firms at Ca-
diz., divided into five classes, according to the capital they employed or acknowledged.
In the number of these there are some of great consequence, for whom Cadiz is as it
were another home, but who, far from losing sight of their native home, add doubly to
the wealth of their country, by favouring the sale of its pkoductions, and returning after-
wards with the result of their speculations : valuable description of colonists, which can-
not be bound by too many ties to their country, but which seem of late years to have
experienced discouragement, as well from the treatment which individuals have met
with, the vestige of which has not altogether been effaced by the peace of 1795, as by
the concurrence of the native merchants towards the promotion of their true interests,
by effecting for themselves, what, for too long a period, th jy saw effected with succes*^
by foreigners.
Besides wholesale dealers, there were at Cadiz about thirty French shopkeepers,
which wit J the former made up a nation, an object of jealousy with the Spaniards,
and frequently persecuted by the agents of government. This body possessed its
funds, its meetings, and prerogatives, and sometimes assembled in order to treat of the
interests of their trade under the auspices of the consul-general of their country.
Cadiz contained about the same number of French milliners ; and at least a hundred
artisans of different professions.
flOURCOANNE 3 TRAVELS IN SPAIN
577
cans; 8u
1 Ham-
roiight in
\ dollars,
.•cry coii-
SVtst In-
iras, 5 foi
len, Mor-
1 in which
•wns with
Ication of
)us annis,
vs formed
lid Havre
principal
mne little
[Ucturc of
lofcse, and
ourtd by
persever-
their pro-
cessitous
liz of any
erce with
ns at Ca-
wledged.
z is as it
loubly to
ing after-
hich can-
i to have
lave met
95y as by
interests,
1 succes*^
)keepers,
paniards,
essed its
eat of the
y-
himdred
The spleen which the court of Ma'irid experienced on the score of our revolution
was, even at the beginning of it, vented on the heads of all the French established at
Cadiz as well as in other parts of Spain. In the first place, in the month of July 1791,
all foreign( 3, without particularly designating the French, were constrained to take an
oath of exclusive submission to the sovereign of the coiuitry ; an oaih, the purport ol
which was evidently to make ther. abjure their native land. The schedule which en
forced this law obliged them to renounce all privileges which they enjoyed as foreigners,
and every relation, all union with, and all dependence upon the eoimtry in which the}
were born ; and this under pain of being sent to the galleys, of being absolutely banish-
ed the kingdom, or of confiscation of property, according to the quality o''" the individu-
als, or the nature of their contravention of the law. Thus much fi . . igners domi-
ciliated in Spain. As for travellers, kno\tn under the title of transeuntcs they were for-
bidden to remain at any of the royal residences, or to exercise in any part of the !:ing
dom any trade or profession whatsoever, without express allowance from court.
A measure so severe on the part of an European power tou'ards civilized nations is
almost unexampled. One would have conjectured that the court of Morocco and its
satellites had been transported to Madrid. Notwithstanding this, CliarJcs IV, is just
and benevolent ; and whatever be said of him, does not abhor the French. But Charles
IV, the most tolerant of despots, had Florida Blanca for his grand vizier.
The publication of the schedule excited a general clamour. Most foreigners (particu-
larly the English, who were then in favour, or who rather at that time were dreaded,
whilst we seemed by no means an object of fear;) most foreigners, I say, easily procur-
ed exemptions and favourablp hearing ; the government acted with rigour only towards
the real enemies against which it was issued. However, when put in force, it seemed
so much encumbered with difficulties, that modifications took place even in fiivour of
the French. Yet many suffered from it. Some bent before the blast ; but the greater
part did not pause between the loss of fortune or their coimtry ; and France beheld the
return of a considerable number of these estimable fugitives. The French who re-
mained in Spain, either from the resolution made of considering them as transeuntes, or,
from their becoming such in fact, were more than ever subject to the strictest vigilance.
Government suffered the violation of treaties to their injury, and possibly encouraged
such infractions, practising them itself. Most of the privileges of the French were dis-
puted. In many places, particularly at Cadiz, the meetings of their nation were sus-
pended. They v^ere, it is true, permitted afterwards, liut with the restriction of their
being held in presence of the governor of the place ; a restriction which annulled the
grant. French merchants were in this precarious situation in Spain when our revolu-
tion made such progress as became alarming to the neighbouring states. The throne was
overturned, and the republic proclaimed. The horizon of Europe became more and
more darkened, and already the thunder-cloud of war seemed ready to burst over Spain ;
count D'Aranda, then chief minister, made some attempts in a dignified, perhaps rug-
ged manner, to avert the storm. His young successor, without professing similar prin-
ciples, yet inherited his pacific disposition. At that tinK' I thought him sincere, and
since then have no reason to doubt his being so. In a few weeks I was satisfied of his
sincerity. An engagement to remain lieutral was already drawn out, agreed to, and
was on the eve of being signed, when that head was severed which could not but be
. dear to the court of Madrid. All negotiation instantly ceased. I quitted the country
without taking leave, but, before my departure, recommended the French whom I left
behind, if not to the benevolence, yet to the justice of the Spanish monarch ; and receiv-
ed the most satisfactory reply.
) <
W
l.
VOL. V.
4 K
n
:.78
iiuun(;oANN£ s travels in stain.
I did not apprehend that I should scarcely have crossed the Pyrenees, before my
couiilrynieii would experience one of the most violent persecutions that national ani-
mobily has ever produced. It is well known that even helbrc the declaration of war,
they received orders to leave Spain immediately ; not givinfj them even time to adjust
iheir afl'airs ; that many were not able to brinjif away their clothes ; that all their pro-
perty, furniture, and iixturcs, and all the mercliandise in their warehouses was seques-
trated ; and that for se\'enil \\etks the ports ol' Spain were full of Frenchmen, pro-
scribed by orders, dragged from a monarch as just as he is humane.
A council was created under the title of Junta de Reprisalias, distinctly charged with
all that related to the se(juestration of the property of the French exiles, and the indem-
nities to be taken upon it by the king of Spain. In the schedule which established this
council it was argued, in order to palliate the strangeness of the proceeding, that the
same measure had sever.il times been adopted in the last century upon similar occasions.
But let us draw the curtain over these transitory injuries of rage and fanaticism. \ . '^aU
not say that they have been expiated by victory ; I shall only observe, that a sincere ' -
storation of concord ought to commit them to oblivion. Now that Spain knows her
real enemies, and her necessary friends, she will not restrict her justice to the simple re-
stitution of their invaded properiies. Let us hope that, without waiting for the con-
clusion of tlie treaty of commerce so often demanded, so long expected, and the promise
of whir' is repeated in our last treaty of alliance, the French will find no longer in her
the jealous and malevolent demeanor of a rJval, but, on the contrary, that respect which
is due to an intimate ally, and be attain invested with the peaceable enjoyment of their
privileges. Perhaps the reader may be curious to know what are these privileges.
The) are of long standing, and formal ; they were eonf'-med and extended by the
famous lamily comj)act, now become a national compact. They have nevertheless been
(let us declare it, void of spleen, if it be possible) they have nevertheless been scanda-
lously infringed in almost every instance.
The greater part of these privileges are not exclusively enjoyed by the French. They
take their date from that period at which the inertia of Spain made it necessary to call
in the assistance of the capitals and industry of foreigners, and attach them to its sea-
iiurts by treaties which then were reciprocally advantageous, but which have become
otherwise now that her drowsy fit no more continues.
The most ancient of these treaties was that of 1647 with the Hanseatic towns. This
served as a model for those since made with the Knglish, Dutch, and French. It grants
licence to the merchants of those difl'erent nations to establish commercial firms in Span-
ish ports ; and to reside there under the protection of their consuls in some degree inde-
pendent of the sovereign, to form a nation, to have a separate tribunal for the decision
of disputes relative to commercial matters, &c.
To these privileges the family compact, concluded at an epoch at which the two mo-
narchs of France and Spain, without having ever seen each other, were animated with the
most tender mutual attachment, and at a time that the policy of the moment prescribed
the strengthening of those ties, this family compact added to these privileges some pe-
Guliar to the French. Among other stipulations, it covenanted not only that Frenchmen
and Spaniaids should be treated equally with the most favoured nations in the two
countries, but also that the subjects of the one king upon the territory of the other should
be looked upon I's natives, as far as regarded any right of importation or exportation,
and enjoy equal facilities in trading, &,c.
In practice, these privileges common to most foreigners are often nugatory ; but,
even before the French Revolution, they were with none more frequently set at naught
BOURCOANNe's travels in SPAIN.
579
than with the Frcncli, owing to their possessing more than other foreigners that species
of industry which is importunate, and that marked success which awakens jealousy ;
owing to Spain, ever since she has been occupied in the restoration of her manufactures,
considering them as formidable rivals ; owing to the French jiossessing an unconquer.
able disposition, and a singular aptitude to smuggling ; and, lastly, owing to the same
custom existing between governments as individuals, of reserving their fits of spleen for
their best friends, while their politeness and attention are shewn to such as are but in-
diftercnt to them, or whose interest they are desirous to secure.
Thus, while English ships which, according to treaty, should be searched upon their
arrival at the ports of Spain, frequently elude this formality altogether, or are subject to
very slight examination, those of the rrench arc minutely visited ; nay, oftentimes are
subjected to a repetition of search at their own expence, upon the slightest suspicion of
any thing contraband on board.
Thus, notwithstatiding by the same treaty no search was to take place, except in pre.
sence of the consul of our nation, our vessels were often visited unexpectedly, and some-
times without any notice being given.
Thus, although the family compact expresses in formal terms, that the French, in
matters of trade, should be treated on a par with Sjianiards themselves, this has almost
constantly been demanded with.out success, when our captains of ships have been desi-
rous of bringing ladings of wine and corn coastwirc from one port to another in Spain.
Certain conventions made posterior to this pact, and designed to explain obscure passa-
ges, left room for further litigation. Of this the smuggling of piastres in particular ha-^
become a very fruitful source. From an ambiguous passage in the convention of 1774,
it was contended that the treatment to be used towards our captains of ships, on board of
which piastres were smuggled, should be the same as towards nations found guilty of
contraband ; that is to say, not only that the piastres became forfeited, with the ship, and
remainder of the cargo, but the captain also became liable to imprisonment; so that we
were placed upon a footing with the Spaniards in the vigorous punishment to which they
are liable alone.
The two governments at length perceived the necessity of introducing more clearness
into some of the stipulations relating to our commerce ; and, on the 24th December
1786, they concluded a new convention, wherein every thing relative to contraband is
distinctly explained, and which limits the penalty upon detection to the simple forfeiture
of the articles smuggled.
This convention, embracing no other objects than what bore reference to smuggling,
the search of vessels, and some other objects cfminor importance, it leaves room to wish
for a treaty of commerce, which iriay become a principal source of future prosperity to
our country.
This treaty becomes so much the niore necessary, from the Spanish government
having made n.any violent attacks on our commerce ; with a view sometimes of encrea-
sing the revenue, and at others of promoting the trade, and industrious habits of its own,
population. The principal of these it may not be amiss to enumerate.
As early as the reign of Philip V, the privileges of a great number of Frenchmen
were disputed under pretext that they were not simply travellers, transeuntes ; but had
become domiciliated, and consequently liable to be treated as Spanish subjects. In 1720
there even appeared a schedule, which circumscribed with numerous restrictions the
quality of transeuntes (the only one which Spain, wearied with claims respecting foreign
' privileges, was any longer willing to allow;) numerous claims, arbitrary, and some-
4 E 2
I i
580
douhgoanne'Ts travels in spain.
times contradictory decisions, and an uiAcertainty among all foreigners, such were the
consequences of this ambiguity.
In 1779, upon the representations of many corporations !'.:/nnatcd with the laudiblc
desire of reviving industry in their country, and of banishing sloth and misery, govern-
ment put in force anew an ordinance of the reign of Philip IV, which prohibit' ;d the
importation of all works conjpkted ; vague expression, to which the custom-house ofli-
eers applied the most vexatious interpretation. In 1782, always under pretence of secu-
ring the prosperity of the Spanish manufactures, particularly that of silk, Spain made a
new tarif (Araned) which considerably auj^nicntcd the duties payable on most of our
manufactures of luxury, and absolutely prohibited a great number. This tarif, and those
prohibitions were so vaguely i > assed, that they left a wide margin to the malevolent
caprice of the customs' officers. u :e the risks which our manufacturers ran in ex-
pediting, and our merchants resi- in Spain in ordering goods, which, when they
arrived at the Spanish custom-houses, were either detained to await the decision of go-
vernment, or were not allowed to enter. Hence the failure of spccuLitions, hence reite-
rated claims to which the Spanish government did justice rarely.
Some comparisons between thetarif of 1770 and 1782 will suffice to shew the enor-
mitj'ofthe increase of duties.
Plain, striped, and figured ribbon, were taxed at 240 maravedies per lb. They were
augmented to 1530 ; gold spotted gauzes were taxed at 48 maravedies per vara ; and
gauzes with silver flowers at 102. The tarif of 1782 raised the least to 153 maravedies,
and some to G12 maravedies per vara.
Difllrent stuffs, whicli embroidered with circles of spangles cost no more at the ma-
nufactory than 30 livres per vara, were subjected by the tarif to a duty of 96 rials, or 24
livres per vara. Had not these impositions a tendency to prohibit them ntirely, or at
least to encourage their fraudulent introduction ?
Twenty other similar examples of malevolence, or fiscal avidity might be cited.
Spain did not confine herself to these injurious measures ; she appeared more inclined
to annihilate our manufactories, than to encourage her own. By a private arrangement
in 1698 with Eminente, at that period farmer of the custom-dues at Cadiz, we payed but
very moderate duties upon the importation of linen from Brittany ; which served to place
them on a level with those of Silesia, less perfect, but at the same time cheaper than ours,
and on that account more attractive. The consequence was, that some of our linens
j)aidno more than 5v ptr ctnt. on their value, whereas those of Silesia, of equal quality,
paid from 10 to 12. VV^e quietly enjoyed this concession, precarious it is true, on ac-
count of our having neglected to convert it into a right by having it inserted in our dif-
ferent treaties with Spain. VV^e had little reason to expect at the close of a war in which
we had been allied, and which ought to have drawn more closely the knot by which we
were united, to be deprived in 1783 of a favour which gave encouragement to oil- of our
most considerable branches of industry, and placed ours upon a level with nil other fo-
reign linens. We have frequently complained of this innovation, but constantly in vain.
l"he tarif of 1782, however, increased the duty of importation on all foreign merchan-
dise ; they have been afterwards so much augmented by different impositions, that some
articles upon their introduction into the interior of Spain, pay as much as from 80 to 90
per cent. ; and none less than 30. Since the treaty of peace at Basle, some abatement
from this excessive rise on the taxes, has been made i . our favour, but we have yet
much to obtain. The tarif of 1782, even as it stands at present, is incompatible with
the ready sale of the produce of our manufactories, and it is upon them principally thift
certain regulations made posterior to this tarif press heavily.
BOURGOANNE's THAVELS in SPAIN.
581
At first the exportation of all foreign cloth to Spanish America was prohibited, as if
the manufactories of Spain were competent to its supply. The inconvenience of this
prohibition w i shortly felt. It was modified by a regulation which allowed a third part
of the cloth exported by every vessel, to be of foreign manufacture ; a measure insuffi-
cient and frequently eluded both through interest and necessity. It is consequently a
fecund source of fraud and litigation.
In 1789 Spain shut out from exportation to her West Indies, all stockings, under-
stockings, and ribbons, of foreign manufacture without exception, &c. &c. The same
year, tardy reflection caused an exception to be made in favour of thread stockings, pro-
vided that they formed no more than one half of the cargo of that description, on board
each ship destined for the West Indies ; a restriction which rendered the exception nu-
gatory.
Manufacturers of hats in foreign countries have also suffered materially from the pro-
hibitory regime of Spain. Their importation into Madrid is rigorously interdicted and
excepting castor hats all others are excluded from their American trade, and lastly silk
stockings are a principal object of their prohibition. All finish white silk stockings
are shut out from her colonies, and even from the capital, but it is well understood that
the Cataluns find an advantage in introducing our stockings, to which they apply the
marks of their different manufactories.
For a long tii.ie our manufactories of Languedoc, of Nismes particularly, had been ac-
customed to furnish the ladies of Peru with stockings. For this they hud looms con-
structed on purpose, in which they worked their stockings with broad clocks, embroid-
ered in diftcrent colours ; but the Spaniards imagined themselves competent to the sup-
ply of the Peruvian ladies according to their taste. They set up similar looms for the
manufacture of stockings, and flattered themselves at first with rivalling, afterwards of
entirely supplanting, our manufacturers ; when all at once their government absolutely
prohibited the admission ofour Peruvian stockings. Our manufacturers of Nismes thus
found themselves overstocked with an article which had no other market than Peru.
They had even shipped a large cargo for Cadiz, which was thrown on their hands. In
vain, in 1792, did they appeal to the good faith of Spain. They represented the im-
mense loss with which they \vere threatened. Their statement shared the disfavour with
which at that period we began to be treated. At the instant of the rupture there were
two or three hundred thousand dozens of these stockings in a state of sequestration in
tlie custom-house at Cadiz.
It will be worthy the equity of the Spanish government, it will but be consonant with
the good intelligence subsisting between the two nations, now more closely allied than
ever, to interdict mutually, for the future, such prohibitory regulations ; since taking
those by surprise, on whom the injury falls, it may eventually occasion their ruin.
Doubtless every government has the right to exert all its means for the encouragement
of the commerce and the industry of its subjects; but where wisdom marks their con-
duct, they refrain from those sudden measures which carry the appearance of perfidy,
and the infallible consequences of which are the alienation of the confidence of all com-
mercial nations, and the furnishing aliment and excuse for smuggling.
Smuggling, the name of which alone excites alarm in the Spanish government, has -
no wider field for its exertions than that afforded by the port of Cadiz. It becomes
naturalized in every part where prohibitions are numerous ; ihe temptations to break
through them, frequent and highly seductive, particularly where the profits which result
from contraband arc sufficiently large to bear the sharing of them, with those who being
but meanly paid for preventing it, gain much more by connivance with the smug-
li
!
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i
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$
.'58:2
OOURCOANNE'S TRAVF.LS XN SPAIN.
glcr. Hence in general it has no agents more active or mor^ faithful 'han xhr nndcr-
strappers of the custom-house. That of Cadiz is under the rlircciloii of an ad.niniatra-
tor, who in general is very severe. Not so much can aUvaj s be said of the eigijt inspec-
tors, or Vistas, who are subservient to him, and whose function it is to examine all
merchandise that is imported or exported, to vahic them, and tax ihtm according to this
valuation. One readily conceives, how arbitrary ail these operations nuist be, one
knows the abundant resources of fraud, especially where its inspectors .irc accomplices.
All the tax makers of Europe may take a useful lesson in this respect from C:idiz. The
rigour of the administrator is inefl'ectual against the stratagems of so many agents con-
spiring against him. In 1785 this pi. ice was occupied by a man as rigorous as virtuous,-
Don I'Vaneisco Vallcjo. The abuses of which he complained, but did not repress,
cccnsiontd the deputation of a purgatory commission. The avidity and the infidelity
. of the clerks of the revenue were punished ; and the custom house of Cadiz was regene-
rated. Every thing was to assume its due order. Smuggling was at its last gasp,
expiring beneath the lash of authority, and the Argus care of vigilance. These brilliant
ideas, however, were fallacious; shortly after Valltjo was replaced by Don Jorge Fran-
Cisco Estada, a still more rigid director, if such could be, than was his predecessor.
But smuggling is a plant which takes such deep root in the soil in which it is naturalized,
that although it be lopped, nay felled both branch and stem, its root will yet give suck-
ers. The smuggler keeps at a distance, and conceals himself at the critical period. As
soon as it be passed, interest takes up anew her accustomed habits, and cupidity resumes
its audacitv. In spite of the rigid Estada ; this was the condition of smuggling in
1793.
If since then it be diminished, it is owing to their being less opportunities for its
manifestation. The long residence of one of our scjuadrons at Cadiz, coidd not fail to
nourish it ; but it prospers highly only when commerce is in its full activity, and the
trade of Cadiz suffered greatly from the war with us. It suffered still more from that
with England, but it is about to resume its ancient extension, and contraband to make
up for lost time.
Cadiz is indisputably the most opi.l nt and the handsomest city in Spain. Notwith-
standing it be circumscribed in such a manner by its position as to prevent its being en-
larged, its population in 1800 was 75,000. The horrible epidemy of the succeeding
year diminished it a fifth part. In order to find shelter for so large a number of people
upon so small a space, they have been obliged to be great economists of their ground :
hence all the streets of Cadiz, with the exception of La calle ancha, are narrow, and
generally dark, owing to the great height of the houses ; but the city is remarkably
clean, well paved, well lighted, and ornamented with handsome ramparts, which serve
for promenades. The neighbourhood of the sea renders the heat here much more to-
lerable than at Madrid.
The warehouse of the wealth of both worlds, Cadiz abounds in almost every thing.
Excepting water, all the requisites of life are here to be found ; and all its amusements
at the theatre, in the vicinity of verdant meadows, and well cultivated land. Those
amusements, however, which are the result of a well cultivated mind, might here be
sought in vain ; enjoyment, in the most rigorous sense of the word, absorbs here all the
facuhies; and calculation, all those of the understanding. The one speaks for itself and
finds its apology in the climate. The other is the result of a concurrence of circum>-
stances to which Cadiz principally owes its importance and prosperity.
UOURGOANNE's travels TN SPAIN.
58d
rhe undcr-
(l.iiiniatra-
,lit inspcc-
xumine ull
ling to this
St be, one
:omplices.
iidiz. The
f^cnts con-
» virtuous,-
ut repress,
i infidelitv
•
us regenc-
kist (^iisp,
sc briiliant
)rgc Fran-
edecessor.
iturulizcd,
give suck-
riod. As
y resumes
iggling ill
ics for its
not fail to
f, and the
from that
1 to make
Notwith-
being en-
ucceeding
of people
' ground :
rrow, and
;markably-
lich serve
more to-
ery thing,
lusements
. Those
It here be
^re ail the
itself and
I circum^
CHAPTER VIII.
MJDV8TRY or CADIZ AND ITS NKIGHnOURHOOD. OV ITS LINRNS. ITS SALT PITS. OF TMK BAY OF
CADIZ. ROAD FHOM CADIZ TO CIIICLANR; FUOM C HICLANE TO ALOESIHAS. OHSKHVATIONS ON
AUHICULTUHK IV SI'AIN.
ALTHOUGH commerce either legitimate or fraudulent absorb almost all the capi-
tal and attention of the inhaljitants of Cadiz and its neighbourhood, yet are not ma-
nufacturcs entirely neglected. At Cadiz there is a score of looms for ribbons and silk
netting, which are seldom at work, but which have an immense sale of their pretended
produce. It will be guessed that the chief occupation of these manufacturers is that
of affixing their mark to foreign goods. Thus it is as well that stockings from Nismes
are bhi|)ped as Spanish manufactures for their West Indies.
At Port St. Mary, at the isle of Leon, at Xeres there are manufactories of stained
linens which have made great progress for several years back. These linens and those of
Catalonia are the only ones allowed to be exported to America ; a judgment of the
extent of smuggling in this article may, however, be readily formed from a cc mpa-
rison of the quantity sent to America with the whole these looms are capable tf fur-
nishing.
At port St. Mary there is a wax bleaching house, through which all foreign wax
intended for America is obliged to pass. But its intervention is almost always eluded
by ^he payment of the two ducats per lb. which is its demand for bleaching.
The Spaniards were once on the eve of producing at the Havanna all the wax re.
quisite for the consumption of their colonies. Upon the cession of the Floridasto the
English in 1763, some Spanish colonists who withdrew to Cuba carried with them a
number of hives. The bees encreased prodigiously in this new country to which they
had fled as I may say for refuge from the conquerors ; like tribes among men, who
escaping from persecution leave their native soil, and bear with them away their riches
and their arts. But in the planters t)f the Havanna they found new persecutors.
Intimidated by the loss their sugar plantations experienced from these new guests, they
kindled fires to drive them away. This scheme succeeded so well that Cuba, forsaken
by the bees, could no longer supply any lioney, and Spanish America was again obliged
to receive for her consumption the wax of Barbary, of Poland, and Hanover.
It will be asked if any sensible diminution of the trade of Cadiz has taken place
since 1780, as was predicted by the jealous spleen of its inhabitants ? There has not.
These predictions did not then wear the appearance of likelihood. Cadiz is so well
situated, so rich, has such fixed possession of the trade to the Spanish Indies, that for
a length of time to come she may brave the competition of any other port. Never-
theless, the peculiar situation of Catalonia and Valentia has been of material advan-
tage to them, particularly in 1789. Government a little previous had made a regula-
tion, that of every vessel sailing for America, national merchandise should form at
least a third part of the cargo. These ports were enabled to ship wines, brandies, silks
and stained linens, and in these articles seemed to vie with Cadiz. But the manufac-
tories of Catalonia and Valentia, not being competent to repeat such considerable sales,
nor able to give such long credits, or so easily to wait for returns, as the merchants
of Cadiz, whose means are equal to their extent of trade ; they soon regained posses-
sion of their original superiority.
One of the most considerable articles of export to India, and that on which the profit
is most secure, is foreign linens.
I !
;
'I
■ii
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.<^
;84
nounooANNE s niy^vKLs in stain.
They consist of, and almost cxclusirtly, tliosc of Brittany, Silesia, and Ireland. In
1787 and 1788 it was noticed that the demand for those of Britanny iiad rather in-
creased than diminished, yet in a smaller dcj^rce than those of Silesia. The exportation
of those of Ireland, the price of which if between that of the two otht- rs, is of late years
j^reatly cncou raided by the British government. Ours nKuntiiini.d themselves only l\v
their superior quality ; but even in this respect they find a formidable rival in those ol
Silesia, which are recently greatly improved.
The importance of the linen trade to Cadi/, may l)e judj^cd by the tiibles of its ex.
portation of foreign merchandise in the years 1791 and 1792.
The whole sum of its exports of this description being 1G4 millions of rials, the ar-
ticle of foreign silks amounted to from 8 to 9 millions of rials ; woollen goods to from
22 to 23 millions ; and the article of linen alone to upwards of 100 millions.
At that period, the value of national merchandise exported was not equal to that of
foreign, but by degrees it has come very near to it. In 1790 it scarcely exceeded 102
millions of rials. In 1791 and 1792 it was from 115 to 120 millions: of this above 60
millions consisted of silk articles ; nearly 16 millions of woollen goods ; and from 17 to
18 millions of linens. In 1792 it was the opinion of some that Spain was enabled to an-
swer the demand of its colonies for fine and second cloths, but not for that of an infe-
rior quality. At this epoch her importation of foreign silk amounted to from 24 to 26
millions of rials.
But at once to give an idea of the extent of the commerce of Cadiz, it may be suffi-
cient to state that in the year 1792 its exports to the colonies alone amounted to 270
millions of rials, and its returns thence to more than 700 millions !
The existence of funds adequate to the support of such an immense business, will of
itself secure to Cadiz for a length of time to come the enjoyment of mercantile pros-
perity.
The manufacture of salt is the most interesting branrh of industry in its neighbour-
hood. The salt-pits encompass a great part of the bay from the Puntal to Port St. Mary.
This is their manner of working them.
In the first place, sea water is introduced, by means of a little sluice, into a large basin,
cut into wide canals of equal de|)th. It remains there a certain time, during which its
lighter parts evaporate from the heat of the sun. From this first reservoir it runs into
other canals not quite so deep, where it is further volatilized. The corrosive quality
of the water remaining is so great, that the workmen can no longer remain with their
feet uncovered without having them burned as if dipped in aquafortis. The water, in
this state, is let intp a long and narrow canal, which runs by the side of a square space,
divided into quadrangular compartments. From this canal, where it is anew exposed
to the action of the sun, it is thrown with scoops into small basins where it receives the
last heating, while the workmen continually stir it with long rakes. The sediment it
deposes becomes as hard as stone, if it be suffered to assume that consistence, and the
workmen are constantly employed in detaching, taking it out, and pounding it. This
continued agitation raises a white scum to the surfiice, which is carefully taken off, and
which produces a much whiter, but a weaker salt than the sediment. The rest is laid
in great heaps in the open air. The necessary quantity for the king's salt magazines is
taken from these heaps, and paid lor at the rate of two piastres the last of two hogs-
heads ; but it is sold again at a hundred and twenty piastres to all individuals except
fishermen, who have it cheaper. The salt manufacturers dispose of what remains as
they please ; and as the reigns of the autumn threaten them with consider >ie waste, they
lose no time in selling. The nations which purchase it are Sweden, Deuiuark, Holland,
JIOUROOANNE «» XnAVELS IN SPAIN.
;»b.)
JCngland, and particularly Portugal. 'I'hc cargoes shipped by the Portuguese are mostlv
«,cut to the coasts of Galicia uiul Asturia, wlurc this commodity is wanti d, and which
they have long had an exclusive privilege of Airuishiug with their own salt. The fisher-
men I'rom St. Malo, Dieppe, and Granville sometimes go to the bay of Cadiz to take
in cargoes of salt for Newfoundland ; and when our salt-pits fail, wc take large quanti^
ties of it for our own consumption.
Kvtry indi\i(!ual who wishes to establish one oflheseartifici.il salt-pits upon his own
ground is at liberty to do it. He may sell the produce to foreigners, but not to his
countrymen, salt being in Spain, as in France, exclusively sold for the king's account.
Guard's arc placed round the heaps of salt, but do not always secure them from thieves
and smugglers.
Cadiz, like the greater part of large commercial towns, contains but few monuments
of the arts. Of late years, however, some buildings have beed erected in a good style,
mostly the work of strangers. The former Italian opera has been converted into an
assembly-room for reading the news, and other innocent recreation. It is called the
Comorra, and consists of large rooms perhaps too much adorned. The custom-house
is a new building of tolerably handsome appearance. The national theatre is tastily
planned, and well laid out. The new cathedral, begun in 1722, had in 1769 cost more
than four millions and a half of rials, and will cost two millions of piastres before it is
completed. The w retched plan upon which it was begun will prevent its ever becom-
ing a master-piece, notwithstanding the cxpencc of its erection and its sumptuous deco-
ration.
But the church of San -Antonio is a sacred edifice, whose defects are still more strik-
ing ; it was built as an ornament to the handsome square of the same name, w hich it
only serves to disfigure.
In the church of the capuchins is an Eccc homo of Murillo, worthy of admiration,
and some other master-pieces of his school.
A foreigner arriving at Cadiz will consequently inquire for the exchange of a com-
mercial town so widely celebrated, and will not be a little surprised at understanding
there is none. One would imagine that its inhabitants look upon the god of commerce
in the same light as the ancient Germans were wont to look upon their god ; as some-
what too majestic to be circumscribed by walls of stone, somewhat that could be
worthily adored beneath the vaulted roof of heaven alone. But the almost constant
fineness of the climate explains this apparent singularity.
The ramparts of Cadiz are more an ornament to the town than a means of defence.
Its fortifications are in good condition on the land side. The entrance into the bay
would be but very imperfectly defended by fort St. Catharine on the one side, and fort
St. Sebastian on the other. The fire of these two forts does not cross. The one is placed
on the continent opposite to Cadiz ; the other is connected with the town by a very un-
even sandy strand which is covered at high water.
The passai^e from the great bay to the bay of Puntalis is much better defended by
the two forts Matagordo and San Lorenzo, placed opposite to each other, where the
bay is contracted.
You cross the strait protects ' by these two forts to go to Chiclana, a place of amuse-
ment, a delightful resort for the inhabitants of Cadiz. For the position of their town,
which is of very trifling extent for a population of 75,000 [xirsons, and almost wholly
surrounded by the sea, leaves them very litUe loom for exercise. A quarter of a league
from the gate towards the lan> barrenness begins, and maintains its empire over several
leagues around, if some few kitchen gardens be excepted, and some orchards in the vi-
VOL. V. 4 F
:>8ti
MOt/RGOAKNE'i IR.WILS IN SfAIV.
ciiiity of tlic isle ol" Leon, where prtifir'uil watoriii}; has remedied the natural harrennewi
of the soil.
To Chiclana, thirt lore, do the inhabitants repiiir to enjoy that verdure which they
want ut home. A lavonriiblc wind and tide carry them over in two hours. I^ravin^^
the isle of Lron to tlu riji;i)t, and tlu Carraek to the li If, yon pass the hridjije of Snaco,
that joins the whole island ol'wliich Cadi/, stands on the north side, to the continent.
Under the arches of this brid|j;e the hay becomes so narrow that after passinpf them, it is
nothinj^ more thanawitle canal, which soon alurwards separates into dift'erent branches.
One of these leads to Chiclana, which is bnilt on the ri^ht bank, commanded by several
eminences, and narticularlv bv the rnins of .m old Moorish castle.
Here several mtrchants of Cadiz have country-houses, which they embellish and sur-
round with that verdure looked for in vain at their houses in town. Duriujij two seasons
of the year Chiclana is partieidarly agreeable, the sprin^jf and autiunn. The ladies of
Cadiz, who unite the most cnehantin^ij jifraces of the Andalusian women to those po-
lislud manners u hich residt from their intercourse with foreigners, the lovely Gaditanas
naturalize here for some ueeks all the enjoyments of the city ; grand entertainments,
balls, concerts, the whole display of opulence, and the toilet's nicest art. It is, as it
were, u list opened by luxury und taste, to which the deepest speculators resort to smooth
the wrinkles of care and calculation, and be reminded occasionally that there is some-
thing in the world which is even more j)recious than gold.
From the eminences which command the valley of Chiclana, we see at one scope
the isle of Leon, Cadiz, the bay, and the sea beyond it. The eye follows the course of
the river Santi petri till it falls into the sea. Turning to the east we perceive Medina
.Sidonia, whence conies the wind called Solano andde Medina, so dreaded by the inha-
bitants of Cadiz, from its pernicious breath, exciting both crimes and disorders in the
city. From the same point of view we embrace the vast plains of Southern Andalusia,
which we are about to pass over in the way to Algesiras and Gibraltar.
Algesiras is fourteen leagues from Chiclana. I performed the journey on the same
horse in one day in summer, crossing the most desert country that can be found amongst
those which are not quite uncultivated. It is true I crossed plains, to avoid circuits,
which would have led me through some villages. But will it be credited that in all this
road, except \'«.jcr on the right at a considerable distance, and Medina Sidonia on the
left still fardur off, I saw no other human habitations than four or five groups of those
miserable cabins, called Cortijos, in which labourers lodge a part of the year.
For ten of these leagues I travelled over the dutchy of Medina Sidonia, through corn
fields and pastures. In no part could 1 discover the vestige of an human habitation.
Not an orchard, not one kitchen garden, not a ditch, nor a stile. The great proprietor
seems to reign here like the lion in the forest, scaring away with his roar whomsoever
might else seek his haunts. Instead of men and women, I met with seven or eight great
herds of horned cattle and some troops of mares. On beholding them unrestrained by
the bridle or the yoke, wandering over an imnriense space unbounded to the eye by enclo-
sure or barrier, we may imagine ourselves carried back to the first ages of the world,
when animals, in a state of independence, divided with man the dominion of the earth,
found every where a property, themselves without an owner.
Andalusia is thus unpeopled in all those parts wholly set apart to corn and pasturage.
It has been divided into great possessions as far back as the conquest of it by the Moors.
The principal Castilian nobleman, who then accompanied the conquering kings, ob-
tained enormous inheritances in perpetuity, according to the fatal custom introduced
into almost the whole of the monarchy. The extinction of males in the great families
BOUHUOANNL f mAVCLS IN ll'AIK.
r^H:
arrennchK
hicli they
)!' Siiar.o,
OUtilK'Ht.
uin, it is
)riinclK's.
ly SCVLT.ll
:uul sur-
1 Htasoiis
ladies oi'
host" |)o.
laditaiias
iiincnts,
is, us it
i smooth
is some-
ne scope
course of
Medina
the inha-
rs itt the
ndalusin,
the same
amongst
circuits,
n all this
ia on the
of those
Jgh corn
liitation.
roprietor
msoever
;lu f^reut
lined by
>y enclo-
e world,
le earth,
isturage.
: Moors,
igs, ob-
reduced
families
IS incessantly incrinbing this complaint. Rich hciriH^CH curry with them their opulent
portiouit into families tiot less opulent, so that the ^rreatt-st part of S|>ain may in time be.
come the inheritance of the few iamilies which sinll survive the rest. As one individual
cannot manage such vast estates, the proprietors iarni them out todilVercnt pirsous, but
this for three years only, or live at niost. Anotht r circumstance (;oMours with these
destructive customs to prevent agriculture from nourishing in Andalusia. 'I'lir land is
divided into three portions; one is etiltivatul, another remains fallow, and the third is set
apart to feed tiie cattle belonging to the farmer, and which he augments as much as pos-
sible, to reap what advantages he can iVom his short lease. This is wh.it gives an
appearance of depopidation to vast districts susceptible of rieh cultivation. The first
improvement recpiisile, therefore, in the agriculture of Andalusia, would be to gr.ml lon-
ger leases. 'I'lic example of Catalonia, Navarre, (ialicia, and the Asturias should serve
as a lesson. There the leases are for a considerable numl)er ol' years, and caimot Ik-
broken by the caprice of the proprietors: every kind of euliivation is there in a flourish-
ing state ; each farmer creates himself a liltle establishment, and improves and feriilizes
the land which he is sure to hold for u long time. What a contrast between this slate
of things, and that I had before my eyes* for ten leagues after leaving Chiclana.
At tile end of these tei\ leagues you begin to ascend with great dilRculty an enormous
chain of high mountains, which do not lower again before they reach the western part of
the bay of Gibraltar. From their summit you perceive the famous rock of (Vibrallar
rising from the bosom of the waves like the genius of the stormy cape described by
Camoens. From this point the eye commands the forinss, the outlines of which ap-
peared to mc perfectly well defined in the serene horizon, and at the same time embraces
the toun of Algesiras, the whole circuit of the bay, two liltle rivers which fall into it, the
town of St. Roch, the slope which leads from this town to the lines, and the tongue of
flat and narrow land that separates diem from Gibraltar; and at a disLuice to the right,
at the extremity of the horizon, we inragine, rather than discover the coast of Africa.
CHAPTER IX.
ALOESIRAS. LINES AND CAMP OP ST. HOCM. DETAILS UKSPKCTINO THK KLOA'l'IN(i HATriiHIEH.
APPKAHANCE OF GIUHALTAH.
ALGESIRAS, the extremity of the fourteen leagues which separate Chiclana from
the bay of Gibraltar, is a town pleasantly situated on a slope, which terminates in the
sea. A vet)' little river (the Micl) which rises in the neighbouring mountains, washes
one of its sides, and gently runs on to the sea ; upon its right bank is a little dock-yard,
made use of during the siege of Gibraltar for the construction of some of the gun-boats.
At the time of the freshes, it has water enough to float such little vesiicls to the sea, which
is distant but a few paces. Near this place are the ruins of the old citadel of Algesiras,
in which the Moors defended themselves for some time after their city was taken. Al-
gesiras, as well as Saint Roch, was peopled at the beginning of the present century with
Spaniards from Gibraltar, unwilling to live under the dominion of the Englisli. In order
to draw thither these refugees, privileges which it still enjoys were granted to the town.
The little island of Palomas, called also the Green Island, is very little distant from
the strand of Algesiras : it has a fort in which a company detached from the garrison of
Algesiras does duty. This island is so fine and regular, that it seems as if traced by the
art of man for the embellishment of a garden after the English plan.
4 F 2
1
:}8H
HAt/nriOAVVR*3 IRAVKLS IN SPAIN.
Algfsir;is is supplied with water in n ttplcndid manner. It \% brotifi^ht to it from the
distnnrc of a (|uart( I of altngiu- hy a new aqueduct built with hewn Htonc.
A pnckct-boat s;iils twice a week from thin town to Ceuta, a Spanish sea port, at five
league.s distance, on the coast of Africa, and directly opposite to Alf^esiras. '1 he passage
is often made in thrteor four hours, but it somelimcH takes up nine or ten : the nricc ik
four rials ; no great sum to l)e transported fron» one fpiarter of the world to another.
The little port of Algesiras is very eonHned in its cummereial speculations ; it receives
sonte cargoes of corn and brandy by Catalonian barks ; and its exportations chiefly con-
sist in coal from the neighbouring mountains,
A great |)art of the two leagues from Algcsiras to Saint Hoch is by the side of the
bay. There are two little rivers which full into it to be crossed in boats, VA Kios de los
PulmoiKS and Kl GOaniipc, which might be taken for nn arm of the sea. After passing
the latter, you leave the bay to reach the bii( k part of the hill upon whicli the town of
Saint Hoch is situated, badly paved, and of a wretched appearance : the environs of
which however arc agreeable, and carefully cultivated.
Two years after the peace it continued to be no easy matter to pass Uic lines of St.
Roch. A formal order, the offspring of the puerile spite of Florida Blanca, interd' *cd
all communication between Gibraltar and the Spanish continent. Notwithstandin i,
I obtained from the commander of the lines permission to approach Gibraltar in co /
with a major of the place. We left Buenu Vista to the right, a large house upon an emi-
nence, in which the duke de Crillon, his aides-de-camp, and all their retinue lodged,
and whence j ou have u view of Gibraltar, the two seas and the coast of Africa. At
length we arrived on the ground of the famous camp of Saint Roch. Destroyed by
peace, as other human establishments arc by war, it presented nothing but a heap of
ruins. We crossed this ground diagonally to go straight to the Mediterra .can, and fol-
low the coiist to fort Saint Barbc which forms the right of the lines ; on presenting the
order of the commander, the great g-atc was opened to us which leads from the lines to the
fortress : a petty officer besides was sent to watch rather than direct our motions. Wc
noticed the traces of the works carried on during the siege, the trenches and epaulemcnt
thrown up by general Alvarez, and which were so much spoken of in the Madrid ga-
zettes ;* the tower of the mile, situated between the besiegers and the besieged, the only
* A witticiHm published at Puris on the subject, and during; the sie^^c of Gibraltar, inserted in the
lirst edition of M.UourKoannc und onuttcd in his edition of IH03, ^iic trunslutor has .I.cnicd posse»-
bivc of too much pleasantry to fail of being agreeable to the Engliiih reader; he )ius therefore givcnit
in a note.
Illustrious warriors of Saint Roch,
Between us, this exceeds a joke.
Mean you to tarry here for life.
Or one day end the mortal strife ?
Whence can you not contrive to join
Dispatch to valour so divine ?
Your patience still may last no doubt,
But ours is fairly wearied out.
Then heroes of the long blockade.
Conclude at length your vain parade ;
And let us hear of your defeat.
Or that the enemy is beat.
Incessantly your batteries roar.
As they would rend the world asundcj>
While tranquilly the English snore,
Unheedful of your mighty thunder :
•oirxaO/* NNk*i travels in sfaik.
.'589
it from ihc
)ort, at five
Ik* price m
riotlur.
it receives
liicfly con.
.icic of the
Kios (le los
"tcr pasHing
he town of
Mwirons of
ncs of St.
iiiterd" ^cd
ndin i,
nco
in un cmi.
Lie lodged,
frica. At
Mroycd by
a heap of
in, and fol-
^cnting the
lines to the
ons. We
paulemenl
i^adrid ga-
thc only
zrtcd in the
tied posseft-
orc given it
object which had escaped thi'ir nintual ravn^^c ; and the place whca* the Kii^liHh luid
made sonjc little gardcub before the ibrtrcss, and beyond the limits fixed by the peace of
Utrecht.
After camtiiip: the bay for sonr^e time, we took a direction towanis the Mediterra-
nean, to Hurvt> nearer at ha^ul, wul in difTcrent points of vi«.\v, the rock which for five
years had 'leen tl.t object of so many speeulationi ; but with a conductor so strict as that
with us ue did not p.esume to fro beyond a small tout r, situated close to the Mediter-
ranean, and near which the first Knglish corps de garde is stationed. On this side, the
fortress is thick beset with l>atteries, mostly in a very steen sloping direction. Here we
s;iw the mouth of a mine uhich the duke de Crillon had liollov/ed within the rock, and
by which he intended to revenge the late of the Hoating batteries, when the peace obliged
lum to desist, and lei't tiie foundation of the fortress secure. This was not the only
point of the rock the duke de Crillon threatened ; on the Mediterranean side, the dc>
clivity, though so steep as lo be almost perpendicular, docs not continue so t') the sin**
face of the earth. Between the foot of the mountain and the sea, there is a kind of path
which leads t(» Kuropa point. At the entrance of ihis path, a second opening in the rock
had been made.
Notwithstanding the sarcasms thrown out against both these attempts on Gibraltar, I
have been assured by ncrsons who were present, that when general Klliot, after hostilities
had ceased, walked with the duke de Crillon round the place, he appeared surprised at
seeing the progress made in the first of these mines, and said to the French (general, if
he had known the state of them, lie should tiot have been#o easy. Was this expres-
sion sincere on the part of the English hero, or a specimen of French complaisance f On
this I shall not undertake to decide.
Rather do I prefer presenting my readers with a succinct but well authenticated ac-
count of the grand enterprise which arrested the attention of all Europe, and the catas-
trophe which was so unfortunate.
The court, wearied with the useless blockade of Gibraltar, a source of ridicule to all
Europe, and even to the besieged themselves, thought seriously of taking the fortress
by some uncommon means, against vvjiich neither its steepness, its formidable artillery,
nor the skill of general Elliot, might afibrd any adequate resistance. It received pro-
jects from all quarters, some of tlitm hardy even to extravagance, others of such u
Or if they answer you by chance,
'Ti» out of common t^omplttistuicc,
A kind iiUCDt'^on to ussuagc
Your \vi(d yet not unfounded rage.
Four ycui-s experience should suffice
To mukc still greater blockheads wise.
Your laboured works grow old, lUid you,
Hero.c Sirs, arc grown old too.
'Tis time to quit these martial cares,
And leave the business to your heirs,
Wiio some few previous races run,
May end the siege by you begun.
Your trenches, batteries, and mines,
Your mortal's, and fireproof mechincs,
VViiichyour gazettes with pride display^
The coflee-house alone dismay.
In vain you block, in vain you batter.
Those you would starve, grow daily fatter,
And at the worst will only die
Of corpulence and lethargy.
!
590
BOURCOANNE S TRAVELS IN Sl'AIK
i
^^•ll^mslclll description, that they could not be mistaken for serious. Of this kind I re-
ceived some m}i:?'f. One, forwarded to tiic minister, formally proposed the construc-
tion in front of the lines of St. Roch, of an enormous cavalier, rising to a greater eleva-
tion than Gibraltar itself, and by this means depriving it of its main defence. The author
had calculated the number of cubic fathoms ol tarih uhich «tuouiu require, the number
of hands necessary, and the length of time which this prodij^ious work would demand ;
and proved that his plan would be less expensive, and less murtherous, than u prolongu-
^'on of the siege, in the manner it had been Ciirried on.
Another conceived the idea of filling bomI>s of such a h irridly mcmphilic quality,
as, upon their explosion, should either drive tlie besieged away fiom the fortress, or poi-
son them on the spot.
At length, the project ofDarcon was received, and fixed nore strongly the attention
of government.
This project, conceived by this engineer at a distance from Gibraltar, and the failure
of which has not f.ndcd to annihilate the reputation he has acquired of a man of great
genius, this project was brought to perHction, and modified by himself within sight
even of the gar.ison. But what a number (jf 'lifficulties it had lo encounter! French
impatience, national jealousy, the bickerings of i iv ,!ry, the vexatious inquietude of com-
manders, the pretensions of self-love, the thougailtss impetuosity of some of its co-ad-
jutors, the perfidious plots of others, and the presumptuou'j want of foresight of almost
all ; conjointly all concurred to cause the ill succes' of a project which one cannot re-
frain from admiring in spite#f its failure, where one has had an opportunity of studying
it in detail.
It was known, as I may say, but by the existence of ten praams, which, on the 13th
September 1782, by rashly exposing tlKmstlves to the fire of their batteries, were re-
(liifed tc ashes by vhe English- Such summaries are verj- convenient for idleness and
malignity, but would form very delective elements for the historian. Enlightened by
memoirs of tiie day, he will --ather say, that, if this great undertaking failed of success,
it was owing to the concurrence of circumstances, over which thp genius of Darcon had
no controul whatever. One of the principal of these was the precipitancy with which
the project was executed before every thing was in readiness, to secure its success. It
is well known, that these ten praams were formed in such a manner as to present to-
wards the battery a broadside covered over with a blind three feet in thickness, which
was kept continually wet by a very ingenious piece of mechanism. By this contrivance
it was computed, that the red-hot balls would be extinguished immediately wherever
they penetrated : but this first contrivance was rendered incomplete by the unskilfuU
neiis of the caulkers, which prevented the effect of the pumps, destined to supply the
water. It took effect dieielore, and that only in a partial degree, on board of one of them,
the Talla piedra. But this was not all. Although they had only very carelessly sound-
ed the stations which they were to assume, they had yet pointed out the course to be
taken in order to avoid nmning aground, and keep a suitable distance; another precau-
tion which turn< d out useless. Don Ventura Moreno, a brave seaman, but inadequate
to tlv combination ol a plan and carrying it into effect, considering his honour called in
question by a letter which general Crillon had wrote to him in the evening of the 12th
of September, in which he stated, if you delay the attack, you are not a man of honour,
he hastened the sailing of the praams, and commanded them to take a different position
to that laid down in the original plan. This change of positions was the principal cause
of liiJe fate of the dav.
KKS
BOURCOANKE's travels in SPAIN.
jyi
kind I re^
construc-
iter eleva-
^hc author
ic number
demand ;
prolongu-
c. quality,
>s, or poi-
atteution
he ruilure
1 of great
hin sight
French
e of corn-
its co-ad>
3f almost
mnot re-
studying
the 13th
were re-
ness and
itened by
success,
ircon had
th which
cess. It
t^sent to-
s, which
itrivance
ivherever
nskilful-
pply the
of them,
Y sound-
se to be
" precau-
idequate
called in
the 12th
honour,
position
al cause
From this mistake only two of the praams could reach the distance of two hundred
toises, that which was previously concerted; the Pastora, commanded by Moreno him-
self, and th'* Talla piedra, on board of which was the prince of Nassau, and Darcon.
Tiicse two, however, were exposed to the most tremendous of all the batteries, the
royal bastion, whereas, according to the plan laid down, all the ten were to have grouped
round the old mole, and receive only a side fire from that battery.
The only two praams which occupied this perilous position both caused and experi-
enced considerable damage. The Talla niedra, in particular, received a mortal blow.
In spite of the blind, a red-hot ball penetrated to the dry part ot the vessel. It was very
slow in taking effect. The Talla piedra began her fire about ten o'clock in the morn-
ing, the ball struck her iietween three and five, but the ravage it caused was not deemed
irremediable before midnight. The San Juan, which was near it, suffered the same
fate. It appears to be evident, that the other ten received no injury. ^
What however was still more afflicting, every thing was wanting at once : stream
anchors astern of the praams to tow them away in case of accident ; and boats for the
reception of the wounded. The attack was to have bei^i supported by ten vessels, and
more than sixty gun boats and bombs. Neither bombs, nor boats, nor vessels, however,
made their appearance.
To conclude, in the position hid down, the praams would have been supported by the
fire of one hundred and eighty-six pieces of cannon from the lines of St. Roch. This
concert became impossible. More than four hundred cannon were to play at once on
the bastions of the North, Montagu, and Orange. With a superiority of nearly three
himdred pieces, Darcon l. >ttered himself he should be able to silence the artillery of
the place. But what was his consternation when he saw that the besiegers had no more
than from sixty to seventy cannon in play, which were answered by the enemy from the
mouths of two hundred and eighty pieces. .
The combined squadron remained a quiet spectator of this strange disorder. Gui-
ohen, who commanded our fleet, offered nis assistance to Moreno, who returned for
answer, it was not wanted.
Bad became worse, and no remedy was at hand. Of the ten praams, eight were at
too considerable a distance either to do much harm, or be liable to any great injury, the
two others, to use the expression of Darcon, carried the gnawing worm in their sides.
Moreno, despairing of being able to save any of them, ^a\c orders to let those continue
to burn which were already injured, and that all the rest should be set on fire. I my-
self have seen this original order. Such was the close of this day, in which ten vessels
were destroyed, masterpieces of human ingenuity, which cost 3,000,000 of liv res
building (;^\ 125,000) and the arming and fitting up of which with cannon, anchcrs,
rigging, &c. cost two millions and a half in addition (^.104,000.*)
Scarcely had this formidable attempt been defeated under the walls of Gibraltar be-
fore it was re-victualled by lord Howe, in sight of our armies and navies. His lord-
• In the first moment of consternation the inestimable Darcon confessed, that he alone was blamea-
ble for the fatal result of the day. i-or a lonjj lime 1 was in possession of the short but energetic let-
ter, which he wrote to the ambassador Montnioriii, on the shores of Algesiras, to the dying noise of
artillery, and by the light of the burning praams.
, « I have burnt the temple of Ephesu:. ; all is lost, and all owing to me. My only comfort under my
misfortune is, that the glory of the two sovereigns remains unsullied. Accept the homage," &c.
Nevertheless when he recovered from his confusion, Darcon, in a very leanved memoir, endeavour-
ed to qualify the confession which had escaped him, and to prove that more than one accomplice were
concerned in the failure, or rather that the blame was chargeable to circumstances alone- and those of
the most fatal and imperious nature.
i
.— <»*
tmm
\02
flOURGOANNE S lHAViiLS IN 31'AIN.
ship boldly sailing up the Mediterranean afterwards \vitli tl.irty-six bhips. From Bucnn
\'^ista he was nerceived on his course from the one sea to the other ; and general opinion
pronounced him running on ruin. The fifty -two vessels which were in the bay weighed
anchor and pursued him. But Howe laughed at our manoeuvres, as fortune had done
at our projects ; and, after wearying the combined squadron in a cruise of a fortnight,
repassed the strait in as full security, as he had placed the fortress.
So many crosses created vexation, but not discouragement. The two French princes
alone and their brilliant suite, who imagined that they had only come to the columns
of Hercules to be present at the surrender of Gibraltar, deeming success no longer
practicable, testified an impatience to be gone, which was far from satisfactory to the
court of Madrid, but which nevertheless it granted. I was at the Escurial, upon their
return. The reception they found at this second interview, was scarcely so affectionate
as at their first appearance. The enthusiasm which they had at first excited had abated,
which was to be expected.
The theatre of these events laid now before me, with how much interest did I exa.
mine the difTercnt approaches, and the whole compass of this famous rock. On the side
of the Mediterranean it is most perpendicular, but is more sloping toward the bay of
Algesiras. It is on this species of talus, that the art of i'ortification has displayed means
of defence so prodigiously numerous as can hardly be conceived.
Nature, as if to render Gibraltar inaccessible on ail sides, has placed between the foot
of this fortress, to the west, and on the side of the bay of Algesiras, a deep marsh which
leaves between it and the place, as far as the land gate only, the breadth of a narrow
causeway, commanded by an hundred pieces of cannon. A small dyke between the
marsh and the bay runs by the sea side to confine the water, and terminates at the land
gate ; and the marsh is contained in tlie enclosure of the place by a palissado, which be-
gins at the foot of the mountain and terminates at the sea. This palissade was the first
victim at the siege of Gibraltar. It was re-established after the peace. The old mole is
distinctly seen from it ; it is a kind of narrow bank or causeway, with cannon planted
on both sides, and entirely masks the new mole, which is half a league behind it.
After having an interview with three English officers, separated by this palissade , and
who pressed us in vain to infringe upon the order of the court of Madrid, but with
whom we could not refuse drinking a k\\ glasses of porter to the health of George III,
and general Elliot, we trod back the road from the lines. Behold, said I to myself,
the rock which for five years engaged the attention of all nations. It is almost useless
to the English, but they imagining their honour concerned in keeping possession of this
spot of land, in spite of nature, which seems to have "''otted it to the monarch who
reigns over the peninsula of which it makes a part, sacrifice millions to fortify, preserve,
and defend it. On the other hand, vanity alone excites Spain to attempt its recovery ;
and to this chimera, under a monarch sparing of the blood and treasure of his subjects,
she sacrificed, for four years together, most enormous sums, the most advantageous
military plans, and even the glory of the kingdom, were that glory rightly understood.
CHAPTER X.
MALAGA. RETURN TO MADRID BY XIMERA, GAUSIN, RONDA, 08SU1VA, ScC. DEPARTURE FROM MA-
DRID, ND THE CAUSE THEREOF. THREE ROADS FROM MADRID TO VALENT|A.
THIS would be the proper place for me to conduct my readers back to Madrid,
through the kingdom of Grenadas, but I am obliged to confine myself to making^ them
acquainted with Malaga.
BOUnCOANNfi'S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
)<)3
III travelling thither from Cadiz, you traverse a very fine country, where high
mountains and beautiful plains succeed each other alternately, as far as Antequera, a
town agreeably situated on the summit of a very elevated mountain. Thence to Mala-
ga there is a superb road, begun in 1783, and which winds for seven leagues between
hills covered with vineyards.
Malaga itself is delightfully situated in a climate which is a stranger to rain, except-
ing in the latter season of the year. On the north and eastern sides, it is placed imme-
diately at the foot of very high mountains, whose summits at times arc covered with
snow. On the west, is a fertile plain watered by two small rivers. The ridges of the
mountains which command Malaga are well cultivated, and covered with almond trees,
olives, oranges, lemons, figs, and especially with vines whose beneficial produce
circulates at table, from one t nd of the world to the other. There are more than six
thousand vine plots (Lagaris) within the jurisdiction of Malaga. The produce of
common years is about 70,000 arrobes of wine (2000) butts more than half of which
is exported.
It possesses from eight and twenty to thirty different species of grapes, among which
the best are those called Tierno, Moscatel, and Pedro Ximcnes. This last name, the
origin of which it is difficult to determine, even upon the spot, is given to one of the
most valuable Malaga wines, but belongs to no district cxelubively.
There is another mode of classing the Malaga grapes, by the different periods at
which they ripen. The early grapes are gathered in June. These it is that make the
be'-t raisins, and a wine also which is marly as thick as honey. The seasonable grapes,
which are gathered in the beginning of September, yield a dry wine of a better quality
and stronger ; and lastly the late c^rapes, \\ hich pruUucc the real Malaga wine. Among
these there are some sorts dis -nished by epicures, and which being less usual arc
sold at a higher price than conn on wines; such is the wiiit c: !lcd Lagrima de Ma-
laga, which is the most excellent of those of the best districts ; such also the Guindas
wine which is no other than the commtja Malaga wine in which the tender buds of
the black-heart cherry have been steeped ;hc fruit o. which is in Spanish called
Guinda.
After the vine, the olive tree contributes most to the richi i of Malaga. There are
five hundred olive presses in the neighbourhood of that town ; but owing to the same
causes that exist in other provinces, the oil is not oi a prime quality ; it is, however,
tolerable at Velez Malaga, and still better in the vicinity of the village of Churian.
Few people, even in Spain itself, have knowledge of thr sugarcane being cultivated
round Velez Malaga, and especially at Torrox, two leatm, ,, beyond. It is true, a scar-
city of wood has occasioned these sugar plantations, th( .ornaments of Moorish industry,
to fall into decay, most of the canes serving only for sweetmeats to children who suck
them. Among some which still exist, those particularly of M. Thomas Quilty de Valois
deserve to be mentioned, he keer ; two sugar mills employed, the produce of which is
little inferior to the sugar of the Antilles. He has likewise established a refinery which
has yielded samples of rum ^qual to the best from Jamaica. He makes use of sea
coal for heating his coppers, which comes sometimes from England, at others from the
coasts of Spain along the Mediterranean, where for some time back a sufficiency of coal
has been worked from the mines, to satisfy the demands of the department of Car-
thagena. There are mines even at a little distance from Torrox, but the backwardness
of the Spaniards in many instances, notwithstanding their improvement in several mat •
ters, is here the cause of their not being worked.
VOL. V.
4 0
j
■I
'f
r
594
BOUnfiOANNE S TllAVELS IN SPAIK.
The mountains which surround Malaga arc inexhaustible treasuries for the mineralo-
gist. They contain jasper, alabaster, antimony, mcreury, sulphur, lead, amianthus,
loadstones, he.
Miikiga has no other building which is remarkable than its magnificent cathedral,
which is incomplete from a want of hands, and money ; and a modern theatre, not
destitute of elegance.
In the time of the Moors, this town and its ULighbourhood were much better peo-
pled than what they are at present. The city I'ormerly contained more than 80,000
inhabitants. In ?747 its population was 32,000, and in 1789 about r)0,000. In the
western part of its territory there ^vcre more tlian fifty villages ; at jiresent there are no
more than sixteen. Tluse facts prove better than all the declamation of philosophy
It has
how highly injurious to iSpain was the expulsion of the Moors
Policy has not been the only scourge from which this country has sulKred.
experienced some earthquakes, and thirteen or fourteen times has it been subject to
pestilence, the last happened in 1750; and the torrent of La Guadalmedina, which
passes through it, renders it liable during the rainy season to terrible inundations. It
has three suburbs, narrow , dirty, and ill paved streets, and rather bears the appearance
of a large than a handsome city ; but its territory and its haven unite in making it
a town of great importance. Its port is famous for its spaciousness and convenien-
cies. It will contain four hundred merchant ships, and ten sail of the line. Vessels
may enter or leave it with any wind. Two moles form its mouth about three thou-
sand toises distant from each other ; bu*. the sea recedes by degrees from this coast ;
and as the Guadalmedina throws up a great quantity of sand Malaga may e\entually
be deprived of its port.
I«i the interim this tow n carries on a most extensive trade. The tu o nations which
reap the greatest advantage from it, are first the French, and next the English. In
1791 there entered this port 321 French, 342 Genoese, and sixty-iwo English ships, Ike.
Nevertheless there are more vessels of this latter nation frequent the port than of any
other. In 1789, the proportion was nearly a hundred English to eight or ten French
merchantmen. The Spaniards themselves resort thither in greater number than for-
merly. Two only reported there in 1785. In 1793 there were thirty-three.
Smuggling has strangely encreased within a few years upon the coast of Grenada.
Hence stvere laws which are attempted in vain to be enibrced; hence frequent assassi-
nations which take place with impunity.
A road along the sea shore leads from Malaga to Velez Malaga, a pretty little town
a quarter of a league from the Mediterranean, and birth place ol' the ianious minister
Galvtz. In order to promote industry in this district, he established a manulactory of
cards at Macharaviaya, a village in the neighbourhood of Velez, which supplies the
whole demand of the colonies of Spain.
But let us return to San Roch, in ordv.r to resume the higl \ ay to Madrid. By a
little deviation from the direct road you pass through Ximena, a lown situated on the
declivity of a steep rock. About twenty years ago, thi minister Galvez established
there a loundery for iron cannon, and bail, destined exclusively for the consumption of
Spanish America.
Three leagues beyond Ximena you come toGausin, a handsome town in the middle
cf very high mountains, whence the rock of Gibraltar may be distinctly seen. At the
foot oi it is a deep valley, watered by numerous rivulets in every direction. A great
enclosure, belonging to the Franciscans, contributes especially to embellish the scene.
B0UIIG0/\NN£'S TRAVELS IN STAIN.
595
nincralo-
nianthus,
Lathcdral,
latrc, not
ttcr pco-
80,000
In the
■e are no
lilosophy
It has
ibjcct to
la, which
ions. It
jpcarance
laking it
mvenicn-
Vcsscls
cc thou-
is coast ;
\cntually
ns which
lish. In
hips, &C.
m of any
n French
than for-
Grenada.
t assassi-
ttle town
ministtT
tctory of
plies the
. By a
d on the
lablished
[iption of
e middle
At the
A great
le scene.
For the possessions of the monks are every where well situated and well cultivated ;
and serve to enliven the adjacent coinitry.
Beyond Gausin, the road for two or three leagues lies over the side of the mountains,
which are covered with vines from their summits to the bottom of the vallies. The
country afterwards becomes more rugged ; and the road as far as Ronda, lies across enor-
mous mountains, in the windings of which waves the most horrid road imaginable.
From time to time you meet with wretched villages hung, as it were, upon the sides of
naked rocks. Their situation, their names of Gicatazin, Benali Atajatc, sufHciently in-
dicate, that built by the Moors in the bosom of the most inaccessible mountains, they
served formerly as asylums from the attacks of the Christians. At present they are the
haunts of thieves and smugglers.
The road after passing Atajatc ascends again and continues to the summit of the high
mountains, whence the rock of Gil)raltar, is for the last time visible.
We soon afterwards discover Ronda, a town surrounded by a double enclosure of
rocks, between which runs a small river, an J forms a natural fortification where not oi
utility it is extremely inconvenient. This inconvenience, ho^\■ever, has lately been
remedied by the construction of a stone bridge for the inhabitants, of a most tremen-
dous elevation.
To the north-east, the environs of Ronda produce fruits of every de icription, a
circumstance not often met with in Spain ; for whether the gardeners want skill, or the
nature of the soil be unadapted to their growth, the country of oranges, figs, and olives,
is not that of the exquisite fruits which constitute the most ornamental and delicious
part of our autumnal deserts. What would incline one to suspect the blame to lie
with art, is the circumstance of the king's table being covered with excellent fruits of
this kind from the gardens of Aranjuez and Saint Ildefonso, under the care of intelli-
gent gardeners.
Paxarete, famous for its wine, is four or five leagues from Ronda, and belongs to M.
Giron, one of the principal inhabitants of Ronda, an oflicer of distinction, known in the
last war by the title of the marquis de las Amarillas.
Grazalema, situated, like Ronda, in the bosom of rocks, is only three leagues from
the latter town. The inhabitants having abundance of water, and but few resources,
employ themselves on one of the principal manufactures of Spanish cloths, for the con-
sumption of the common people.
On leaving Ronda, passing through Cannete, a large unhandsome town, the country
is uneven, and of melancholy aspect, notwithstanding its vast fields and plantations of
olive trees ; and after travelling five leagues you arrive at Ossuna, the capital of the
dutchy of that name. TI:*^ city is considerable, but nothing in it a..nounces affluence,
although many of the nobility reside there. It contains an Alameda, or public walk,
decorated with a fountain : and the traveller, if so disposed, may amuse himself at
the expence of a pompous inscription intended to commemorate a very wretched per-
formance.
From Ossuna to Ecija is but six leagues, across a flat country in the best state of cul-
tivation of any in Andalusia.
From Ecija to Madrid is seventy-five leagues, over a country which I have already
described. I have now no more left me than to conduct my readers back to the French
frontier by the road which I took in 1793, in consequence of an event which made the
first month of that year a remarkable epoch.
The court of Spain had l^ng foreseen the storms gathering over the head of the un-
fortunate Louis XVI, and principally with a view to its dispersion, and either giving
4 G 2
I
596
DOUIIOOANNE'S travels IK SPAIN.
credit, or pretending to credit, the assurances of that prince, it received me in the inontli
of May 1792 as his minister plenipotentiary. I shall observe on this occasion, that the
Spanish monarch and his court did not act up to their professions with respect to me.
1 hey appeared to acknowledge my character in a free and spontaneous manner ; while
from the reception I experienced for the space of four munths, it was easy to jjcrccive
how repugnant to their feelings this acknowledgnent was. In this ambiguous situation
was I placed when I was surprised at St. Ildcfonso by the news of the event of the 10th
ot A'jn^ust, on the eve of the festival of St. Louis, the queen's gala day. I did not,
however, refrain from uttending at court. It was a courageous step on my part ; the
last I attempted. After that day I conceived it my duty to keep away, as after the
downfall of the king I was no longer regarded as his representative. This circumstance,
however, did not prevent my holding communication with the count d'Aranda, and his
successor the duke de la Alcadia, as frequently as the interests of my country made it
expedient.
In the mean time Spain, notwithstanding the pacific disposition which she pretended,
and authorised me to give assurance of to the new French government, was making
preparations of an hostile appearance. I watched its motions narrowly, and required an
explanation. More than once did the Spanish minister take umbri'ge at a foreign go-
vernment intermeddling in its interior administration. However as peace was at that
time desirable, and hoping above all things to sjivc Louis XVI, it was on the eve of en-
gaging to remain neutral by a formal act. This act was even drawn up in my presence,
and sent to Paris, whence it was returned to Madrid with some trifling alterations.
Spain looked upon them as of sufficient weight to require fresh explanations.
In the interim the trial of the king was carrying on. Charles IV, used the most af-
fecting but a tardy intercession in favour of his relation. The death of Louis was de-
cided upon. He lost his head. My negotiation was at an end. In vain did I attempt
to renew it. The prime minister, who was then with the court at Aranjuez, gave me
to understand that for the instant any interview with me would be ill-timed. I insisted,
stating ihat I could have no business any longer in Spain, if I ceased to possess the faci-
lity of discussing affairs relative to my country, and demanded my passport. It was sent
to me ; and I left Madrid the 23d February 1793. As I was then unacquainted with
Catalonia, which at the eve of the war with which we were threatened must necessarily
be the theatre of the military preparations of Spain, I resolved on taking the route of
Valentia and Barcelona, re-entering France by the way of Perpignan.
The first day I reached Aranjuez, where the court was at the time. I saw for an in-
stant some friends which I yet preserved among the Spaniards, and who lamented with
me the disastrous rupture of which my departure was the signal, foreboding with me at
thf same time that it would not be of long duration. I continued my journey, and slept
at Ocana.
I entered La Mancha, the western part of which I was about to travel through, in or-
der to gain the kingdom of Valentia. I had already made this journey in 1783, in the
finest season of the year, at a period when my mind, the political horizon, and every thing
around me partook more of serenity.
There are three roads from Aranjuez to Valentia; one, which is the post road passes
by Taracon, Requina, &c. This is that I travelled over in 1783.
Another, vvhieh I made choice of on my return, goes through San Felipe, Almanza,
and Atbaceti.
The third is the beautiful new road which carries you very commodiously firom Ma-
drid to Valentia.
BOtrRCOANN£*S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
597
the montli
, that the
1
ct to me.
cr; while
> perceive
bituutiun
f the 10th
I did not,
part; the
after the
u instance,
a, and his
y made it
jretendcd,
ts making
quired an
preign go-
■as at that
eve of en-
presence,
Iterations,
most af.
3 was de-
I attempt
gave me
[ insisted,
I the faci-
t was sent
ntcd with
eccssarily
: route of
for an in-
iitcd with
ith me at
and slept
:h, in or-
3, in the
ery thing
d passes .
ilmanza,
om Ma-
I shall travel rapidly over these three roads. If you take the post rotid, you pass along
La Calle de la Reyna for the sp.tcc uf half u league, then turn to the left, and bid adieu
to shade and verdure.
During the first seven leagues you frequently approach the Tagus, no longer now the
Tagus of Aranjuez, nor even of Tokdo : you at length arrive at Fuentcduennas, a large
village, in every part of which poverty and idleness are but too conspicuous.
A little beyond Tarancon, a large town, three leagues farther on, you discover the
castle of Ucles, which after having- been a fortress, no doubt built to prevent the incur-
sions of the Moors, as its form sufticiciuly indicates, is become the peaceful abode of a
religious society.
I pass rapidly over Saylices, Villar del Saz, and Olivarez, the situation of which, in
the centre of a chain of hills, is highly picturesque.
Bonache, three leagues farther on ; tlicnce to the borough of Campillo, the distance is
five leagues, by a road full of stones, and a country which presents on every side sterility
and depopulation. From Campillo to Villargorda you travel over the summit of moun.
tains, by paths where two men would be unable to go abreast without danger of tumbling
over into deep vallies. After having thus stumbled for sogit' hours over rocky ground,
across a wild and uncultivated count y, you descend for the space of a league by a very
winding -oad, and discover the Rio Gabriel, serpentining in a narrow valley covered
with verdure, which it leaves, after having passed under a handsome bridge of one arch,
called El puente de Pajazo. N jar this bridge is a vast cavern, formed by nature, the
retreat of smugglers and robbers, which infest this unfortunate country.
After climbing again a steep 'lill, you reach the post-house of Villugorda.
The mountains you have thus travelled over are called Las Contreras, the dread of
travellers. The four succeeding leagues conduct you to Requena, across a plain which
affords the first specimen of Valcntia. The neighbouring stream, from which cuts are
made to irrigate the plain, concur vvith the excellence of the soil, and the mildness of the
climate, to make them fruitful in corn, vines, flax, pastures, and above all mulberry
trees.
Beyond Requena is another chain of mountains, called Las Cabr'llas. This road like-
wise is very rugged, but not of long duration, and at the end of i. ree leagues you reach
a Venta, which stands entirely by itself, called La Venta del Relator.
As soon as you have passed through Requena you enter the kingdom of Valentia, and
are able to distinguish this from the industry and activity of its inhabitants, who make
every advantage of the slender portion of soil they find on the back of their rocks.
But the environs of Cheva in particular realize the captivating pictures one takes a
pleasure in sketching of this country. It affords an inexpressible delight after crossing
the dry and barren plains of Castile, where trees are so uncommon, the grass without
verdure, and the lands without inclosures, to find one's self between live hedges, formed
by aloe trees, and serving as i'ences to orchards, pastures, and plantations of olives and
mulberries.
This lovely scene is continued for half a league beyond Cheva. The land afterwards
is of a poorer nature. Soon however the delightful eye surveys Valentia and the Me-
diterranean. On arriving at Quartos, about a league from Valentia, you meet with
nothing but a continuation of orchards, gardens, and little country-houses, the simpli-
city Of which affords a charming contrast to the luxury of nature. Half a league farther
you pass through a second village, which stretches to the suburbs of Valentia.
The road which I took on my return in 1783 is longer by seven leagues than the
first. It is not the post road, but yet it may be travelled over either in coches de coUe-
1
.)9)j
BOURCJANNE S IKAVELU IN Si'AIN.
ras, or much morccconomically in little cabriolets, called Calc/.in, nuu:h in vof^uc in this
country, as well in the neighbourhood of Valentia as in the town itself.
On this second road you travel for six leagues over the richest country imaginable, by
one of the best roads in Spain. Plots of mulberry trees inttrmixed with fields of rice
continue all the way to San-Felipe. This town, formerly called Xativa, is built on the
sloping side of a mountain, protected by two castles above it, and f>rms a kind of am-
phitheatre, thus explaining the long resistance it was able to make to rhili|) V, and for
which it NNas punished by loshigits name and its privileges. It has a church of hand-
some appearance, and several fountains which would not disgrace the largest towns.
Onlia\ing San-Felipe, for three leagues the road lays between uncultivated and un-
peopled hills, when you arrive at the Venta del Puerto ; you are then upon the confines
of the kingdom of Murcia, so much extolled for its fertility and excellent cultivation.
This praise, however, is well merited only in the plain wherein its capital is situutedi upon
the banks of the Sigura, known by the name of La Vegade Murcia.
From La \'enta del Puerto the view is confined on all sides to barren mountains,
crossed by the road to Almanza. You discover this town at the extremity of a vast
plain, famous for the victory which insured the throne to Philip V. This plain is well
cultivated, and its fertility seems to increase as you ap])roach Almanza. There is a tra-
dition at Almanza, that the years immediately succeeding the battle, which has received
its name from that place, were extremely productive ; sad compensation for the destruc-
tion that victory occasioned to the human species ! About the distance of a cannon
shot on this side Almanza is u socle, which liears upon its four sides Latin and Spanish
inscriptions, relative to the victory gained by marshal Berwick. Above the socle rises a
little pyramid, upon which was formi. rly ati armed lion. The people of Valentia irritated
by this image, which seemed to threaten them, beat dov/n the lion ^vith stones, when
the small statue the pyramid now bears was substituted in its stead. To eternise a vic-
tory like that of Almanza, one would look for a more magnificent monument.
The industry of Almanza is confined to the weavers, who indeed are numerous: the
hemp grown in the neighbourhood is not near sufficient for their employment. To the
north of the village arc the ruins of an old inhabited castle, and to the west, at about a
quarter of I league from Almanza, is a mountain in shape of a trapezium, the outlines of
>\ hich are so s} mmctrical, that at u distance the traveller is inclined to take it for an enor-
mous intreuchment.
On leaving Almanza before the great road was finished, the traveller had to cross a stony-
country, \\i\d, and covered with heath ; another no very pleasing specimen of the king-
dom of Murcia. You next perceive Chinchilla on the left, a town on a barren emi-
nence, but which commands the spacious and fertile plains of La Mancha. One is then
but a few leagues from Hellin, a place remarkable for being the native place of Macanaz
and count Florida Blanca, who was exiled thither aO.er his disgrace.
You then are near Albacete, the country about which is iniproved by irrigation. This
large town laying between N'alentia and Alicant, is a place of rendezvous for a great
number of merchants. Its industry is exercised on iron and steel brought thither from
Alicant, but in a somewhat rude manner. Still its manufactures are sufficient to banish
idleness and poverty from the city.
From Albactte the road passes through three extensive villages of La Mancha, La
Gineta, La Roa, and Minalla ; and } ou travel nine leagues across a vast plain which is
not well cultivated, producing only a little corn and some saflfron.
Next succeeds El Provenzio, rather a considerable town ; the cultivation of saffron
is the principal employment of its inhabitants.
*>
HOL'RfiOANNES TRAVELS IN SrAlN.
590
uc ill iliis
liable, by
s of rice
ilt oil the
d of um<
ntid fof
of hund-
ivns.
and un-
confiiics
tivution.
ted, upon
ountains,
of a vast
in is well
is a tra-
rcceived
:destruc-
a cannon
I Spanish
:le rises a
i irritated
it-'s, when
ise a vic-
ous: the
To the
: about a
itlines of
an enor-
is a stony
he kin^.
ren emi-
le is then
Vlacanas
m. This
a great
ler from
0 banish
iclia, La
»vhich is
' saiTrou
Beyond you pass over well cnhivatcd lands and through two villages, Pedroncra, in
which there is a nianul'actory ol saltpetre, and La Mota, pleasantly situated. Hence
the eye survexs the immense |)lains formerly the theatre of the exploits of Don Quixote.
Shortly after you fuid yourself within a leapjuc of Kl Toboso, tlio birth place of Dul-
cinea ; and discover the steeple of Kl Toboso, the little wood in which Don Quixote
waited for the tdider interview procured him by his faithful squire, and the house in
which Dulcinea received his amorous nussagc.
At length you pass through Quintanar, and arrive at Corral, a large village, within
nine leagues of Aranjucz.
In 1783 the new ro;id procetded no further. In 1793 I found it advanced to the
confines of the kingdom of Valentin, and with the exception of about twelve leagues
the road from Madrid to Valcntia was one of the finest in kurope. The new road takes
a dift'irent direction in many points from the old one. It leaves San Felipe a league to
the kit. It does not cross the vast plain of Almanza, nor near the pillar which com-
memorates the battle. When you have attained the summit of the plain, you keep for
some time along the skirts of it, and afterwards descend into the kingdom of Valentia,
which announces itself by its temperature and flourishing state of cultivation. When I
entered this kingdom in my last journey (the 27th Kel)ruary) already were die almond
trees in bloom, spring shewed itself in myriads of o|)ening flowers ; our road ran be-
tween plantations of olive trees and carobas, favoured by the shade of which the earth
already ^avc symptoms of its fertility. This early, cheerful robe of nature appeared the
more striking, from our having previously travelled over La Mancha, still in many parts
covered with snow.
We noticed, however, very few dwellings by the way. A Vcnta, situated midway on
the slope of a hill, commands a view over a fertile valley. Thence to the Venta del Key,
a large new inn, is four leagues ; at this place we were agreeably surprised at finding de-
cent furniiure, and a chimney place.
Every where throughout this district the eye is cheered with the appearance of com-
fort. The new road is constructed with the nicest attention, nay even with magnifi-
cence.
At intervals you meet with liandsome new built houses, fine bridges over even the
smiUlcst rivulets, superb raised causeways cased with masonry, numerous parapets for
the safety of travellers, the road at times artfully winding round the sides of hills, and
stones to distinguish the distance at every league. TIk,* fifty-fifth is at the entrance of a
long village, at the end of which is built the Venta del Rey. Before you reach it you
pass through Laiiera, another village, consisting of a group of houses mostly new built,
along the side of the road. High roads, particularly in fine countries, arc like rivers and
streams ; they invite population.
CHAPTER XI.
MY ARRIVAL AT VALENTIA, INSU K R F.CTIOS AOAINST TlIK KRKXCH. BESC RIPTION OF THIS CITT
AND ITS NEKUIIIOUKHUUU. HICE (iROeNDS. HARILLAS. OILS. F.Xl'URT ALOES.
WE arrived rather lute at Valentia on the evening of the seventh day. The sixty-
third column " i opposite the first houses of the suburbs, where we deemed it expedient
to pass the night ; a measure of prudence recommended rather by the terror of the
muleteer than any apprehension of our own. Valentia at that period was the theatre of
a inost violent insurrection, excited by royal and religious fanaticism against the French
nation. Every thing that related to France, whether by name or origin, was exposed
600
liOUn(;OANN£ 0 lilAVCLU IK SI'.MN.
to the fury of the populace. In order to rrprcss tills tsiiniilt, Don V'iltor'm Nav'm,
uho was govi-rnor in the kiiifrdom of \'alcnli;i, had oicasion f(ir ill his vl}j;iluncc, and
the whole of the trifling armed force Itfi in his capital. On the night of our arrival the
town was illuminated, and numerous patrules prevented diiorder. The innocent and
peaceable objects of this blind hatred, shut up within their asylums, were apprehensivi .jf
their being violated at every instant. Ac«piainted with some persons thus situated at
VaKntia, I sacrificed to their security the plea
whieh caution they were thankful.
pleasure I should have had in seeing them ; for
For our part, keeping ourselves still and close shut up within our apartment, we en-
joined silence to such of our people as might betray us by their speech, and particularly
to our children, who might by their erics have pointed out to passers by the residence
of a little French colony. Happily we maintained the most secure concealment, and Ix*-
fore the appearance of auro:a we (|uitted this dangerous place. The tumult, >vhich had
more than once been at its height, fortunately passed over without any of our country
men losing their lives ; however many of their houses were broke open, and some ware-
houses were plundered; the Valentians thus gratifying the secret malice which had
long before been excited by the prosperity of the commerce and industry of ' .• French;
a malice more prevalent among the people of Valcntia than the other citie.^ of Spain,
from the manufacturers of that city considering us as active and formidable rivals.
I shall not nuike my readers haste with so much speed through the kingdom of Va-
htuia, nor quit its capital so abruptly as I was obliged to do in 1793. This country,
one of the finest in Spain, perhaps the most agreeable of any in Europe, deserves u more
ample detail.
Its cai)ital, if not exactly a handsome city, is yet a very pleasant place to inhal/it, par-
ticularly since a vigilant police has bien established in it, occupied as well in adding to
its embellishment as its safety. Although its streets be unpaved, they are very clean.
The filth from which they arc frequently cleansed serves to manure the vast orchard
whieh surrounds it on every side. Idleness and wretchedness are banished from this
city, every person being enqiloyed. In 1783 nearly four thousand looms were in use
for making silks of difllrcnt breadths, and occupied more than twenty thousand of its
inhabitants, without reckoning the workmen in wood and in iron employed upon the
construction and repair of so much machincrj', those who separate or spin the silk, or
those who dye it.
This prosperity has kept increasing since 1783, and I am assured that of late years Va-
lentia kept eight thousand looms at work of every description. The government ne-
glects no encouragement of this particular branch of industry which it can afford. Dur-
ing the war with France it exhibited several instances of this. The war rendered a re-
sort to the quintas nccesiiary upon two several occasions, but the court exempted all
young men employed any way in silk manufactures ; and this exception comprehend-
ed more than three thousand persons in the city of Valentia alone.
The manufacture of silk is not t!ie only employment of the inhabitants of Valentia,
they furnish a considerable quantity of hemp to the king's arsenals.
Their wines and brandies are also exported in great quantities to England, the
island of Guernsey, Holland and to the north by way of Dunkirk, where the greatest
part of the brandies if \'alentia were mixed. Within a few years past they have found
a new market in Spanish America ; and they even ascend the Loire as far as Orleans.
For our merchants willingly mix these brandies with ours, which are of a superior qua-
lity ; and their wines with French wines, in order to give colour.
BOUnoOANNES 1HAVEL3 1^ SPAIN
(iOJ
"la Navi;i,
ance, uiid
iriival tJu*
'Kcnt !ind
lii'iiiivt ,i(
ituatal at
tijcm ; for
It, \vc cn-
irticiilarly
residence
It, and Ix.'-
tvhicli had
country
>nic uanr-
tiiicli had
^' French ;
of Spain,
/als.
»m of Va-
country,
i-'s a more
abit, par-
iddiiifp to
:ry clean,
it orchard
from this
re in use
"id of its
upon the
c silk, or
•cars Va.
mcnt ne-
rd. Dur-
Tcd a re-
nptcd all
[jrehend-
Valentia,
and, the
greatest
'e found
Orleans,
ior qua-
Ricc is another source of riches for N'alentia, but ihc culture of it li sscii'* tlic '.ilubril)
(jf this happy climate ; however, they possess a method of shelierinj^ ilu niselves from the
malignant nilluenee of the rice groiuidn. I have known of some uho mit j^iiinii; out to
tJK ir work before the sun was risen to some heij^ht above the hori/.on, returnin;^ to their
close shut homes in ihecveniuff, and rcfraininjij almost tiuirely from the u^c of water,
lived with impunity in n\i<lst of their fuldsof rici ; but the ^rtatir part jkiv lor their vi
cinity to tlu ni by Mitermiitent livers. Notwitbst:iiKliii|if this they are not the less attached
to this bran( h of husbandry on account of its fuvoiuin^; their idlenihs, beiiifi^at the san»e
time produciivc. Hice is sown about the festival of St. John, and is gatherccl towards die
close of S.pt ember. The crops seldom fail, and is secure of a market. Is it wonder
ful that such a siKcics of culture should have its partisans? It has so many that govern
ment hasbein obliged to frame very strict laws to prev« nt the increase of rice grounds.
They are nwi with in abundance along the coast, anil particularly south of N'alentia iVom
Gaiulia to Catarrajo. In this part the predilection of the people for this culture is a ma-
nia which nothing can restrain. The administration divides tlie estates into dillerent par-
titions or cotos, and designates such as within a limited space of time are ;ilU)v,ed to In-
sown with rice ; but the bounds specified are almost always exceeded. In \ain eloes the
captain. general repair to the spot, to watch over their adherence tr) the restrictions, his
authority is freejucntly compromised, and his safely occasionally ; so that the lav/ is often-
times eluded and with impunity. In consecpience, of hue years the crojis of rice ha\o
been prodigious. They serve for the consumption of alt Spain, if the south of Andalu-
sia be excepted, where a preference is paid to tlie rice of Carolina.
Its numerous markets have greatly tended to increase the price of rice at V'alentij.
The measure sold in 1785 at from 6 to 7 piastres has risen to 10 and 12 ; and tlu
farmers of the country affirm, that Valentia receives not less than from JO to ;32 mil
lions of rials ^upwards of 350,0001.) for rice alone. There are two moeles of cidti-
vating this gram, it may either be planted or sown. The crop of that which is planted
greatly surpasses that of what is sown, but rcejuircs an extra care, on which account it is
almost every where sown. The ground is previously tilled but remains level, without
any appearance of a furrow, and is inundated to the depth of somewhat more than a
foot. Rice, at least that which is cultivated in the kingdom of Valentia, has the singu-
larity, possibly peculiar to itself, of being constantly in the water even to the time of
gathering inclusive. The rice ground never has the water drained from it, except when
it is weeded. When ripe the husbandmen proceed in the water up to their knees, fol-
lowed by carts on which the sheaves of rice are laid ; it is afterwards threshed in the
same manner as other grain; that is to say, as in the kingdom of Valentia, so through-
out almost all Spain, it is trodden out of the straw by horses and mules. After tlVis
operation the rice remains in its husk or balle. It is separated from this b}' passing
through mills perfectly resembling H >ur mills excepting th.it the mill-stone is coatecl
with cork. Rice however is sold indifferently before or after this lastoj)eration.*
Barilla is a production peculiar to the kingdoms of \'alentia anel Mureia. It is an
essential ingredient in plate glass. Tlie annual <juaniity gathered ma)- amount to one
hundred and fifty thousand hundred weight, which is divided between France, I'lngland,
Genoa, and Venice.
* Rice grounds have to the present time conthuied to increase. A law suit look place brtwecn their
partisans, and the advocates for mulberry plantation, which was deurniined in lavour of the Ibrmer ; the
latter in conscciucnce have abused their triumph to the injury of the healthiness of the ;dr. Notwith-
-standing, the rice grounds do not yet extend beyond Ria ; the rest of V'alentia is free from this scourpo
VOL. V. 4 H
».»»
603
ilOURCOANMr.'s TRAVir.S l!f IfAIN.
!*otush, ii) SpaniHh rnllcd Sosa, \h n »pccit» of barilb employed in the soap inaiiufac
tf)ricH ol' France and Knf]jland. The kingdotn of ValciUia produces about luiutiive
thousand <piintal') u year.
The A^ua a/.ul, is n third sort of barilla. About four thouHaiid (juintaU of diiii arc
tinnually produced, most of which is atnt to Marseilles.
Lastly, Solicor, a fourth kittd, is product d u ithout eulllvation, nnd h cmpIoNcd iu
the ^lass manufactories of France, England, and Italy.
When the plant of these four sorts of barilla is well matured, it is left a day or two
in heaps to dry ; afterwards it is put into a hole without much pressure, three or four
feci deep, then set on fire and turned o\rr or stirrid up with lon^ij poles: and in pro-
portion as the first plants arc consumed, others are thrown in. When they are all
sufliciently burned, the hole is covered, and the barilla left to cool. It is too often
adulterated by mi.xing with it bastard herbs produced in the same soil. The cinders
that remain after this burning form lumps, which arc the barilla in pieces us it is exported.
Oil is one of the most abundant productions of the kingdom of Valentia, but is not
allowed to be exported except when the price is very low. It is reputed to have a dis-
agreeable taste and smell, jind generally speaking deserves the reproach. Its imperfec
tion is attributed to diiVerent causes ; 1st, to the custom of desiioiling the olive trees of
their fruit by bruising, instead of gathering it with caution ; 2<ily, to keeping the stont
too long in the fruit; and .3dly, to the scarcity of oil mills, which occasions the olives
to be left several months in heaps, in which they ferment and rot before the juice is ex-
pressed.
This third cause appeared to me to be the chief and the most active. It is one of
ihc principal incon^ eniences attendant on signoral rights which continue yet oppressive
to a great part of Spain. In the kingdom of Valentia in particular there are few
noblemen without exclusive ovens, and mills, both for grain and for olivts. Now
this second species of mills aa' not suftciently numerous by much, for the use of t\^t
proprietors of olive grounds, who are not yet allowed to build any for thenjselvcs.
The Valentians will consequently continue to have bad oils as long as they remain sub-
ject to this al)ominable slavery. Notwithstanding this disadvantage, with nice attention
and care, some of its cultivators manage to produce oil, which even connoisseurs esteem
but little inferior to those of Provence.*
The industry of the people of Valentia derives advantage from all the productions
of their soil. The province contains a kind of earth of wTiich they make squares, or
tiles of coloured delph; called Azulejos, and which are manufactured at Valentia alone.
They arc used to pave apartments or cover ceilings; the most complicated subjects arc
painted upon them ; such, for instance, as a masked ball, or a bull-fight.
Espart, although one of the vilest productions of the kingdom of Valentia, is of great
use to the inhabitants ; of this they make mats nnd cordage. Formerly great quanti-
ties cf it vere sent to the ports of France and the Mediterranean. This exportation was
prohibited in 1783. The measure excited disapprobation, and was mucli murmured
at. It was pretended that all the espart produced could not be consumed in the coun-
try. The c<jurt of Spain therefore permitted certain individuals to export considerable
quantities; and the ports of Toulon and Marseilles, where it is of great use in the dock-
yards and arsenals, have reaped advantage Irom the permission.
* Their method of making oil is klcly a little improved, especially in the neighbourhood of AlicariU
At Elches, lor exaiitple, uiul on the hills in the neighbourhood of this little town, u pure oil is niadCj
as clear «s water; and inferior in n • respect whatever to the finest Provence oils.
lounnoANNK s n(AV«(..i in ipain.
(J0.>
vmt-live
tliis un
>l<>\c(] ill
y or two
or four
ill pro-
y arc all
too often
ciiuk-rd
X ported,
ut in not
vc a (lis-
lupcrlcc.
': trees of
the stont
he olives
cc is cx-
is one of
||)prc.ssivc
: arc few
s. Now
ic of tiie
:mselvcs.
luin sub-
attention
rs esteem
ductions
lares, or
ia alone,
tjccls arc
• of great
t qiianti-
ition was
urmured
he coun-
siderabic
he dock -
f Alicariu
is niadCi
The N'akntians muk - ihc even of the ulo<', upurahitc nbnt Hccmingly dcstuicd only to
iUcoratc and (ntlosi: landtd posscsnionn. They draw (rmii its lonf^ and thick Icavts, a
kind of thread, of which they make reins.
Iksides these thi y ex|H>rt u ool of u second (pialit) , the prodiue (jf their she( p. It in
in the neighbourhood (>{' Oandia in j>artieular that the Hocks arc (cd frou) which it is
shf)rn, and from the port of this city it isshijipcd for Marseilles, with numerous cargoc*
(»fdry fruit, annisv-ed, and cochineal, the produce of the country.
To conclude, in their abundant crops of oranges, lemons, giaprs, and figs, but
particularly in their wines and br.uidies, they possess un immense fund of articles for
cNUortation.
Industry in Valcntia, as well as in the provinces of the crown of Castile, is not bur-
thcncd with the scourge of royal imposition .. All those taxes which pass under the
denomination of provincial rents arc there unknu»vn. I'or them the K(|uivaknte is sub
stituted, which is a direct tax on all possessions of every description. Tiiey are valued
in every district with a tolerable precision by tlie oflice for taxes (La Contadari.i dc mo
pios, y arbitrios;) and this tax, which is in<vjeratc, i- collected by a mrson appointed by
the alcalde. On the other hand, the signorial ri^dits, and the feudal claims to which
they are subject, which are taken in kind from the produce of every crop, and which
amount to a seventh, a sixth, and in some places a fourth part, are u tax upon them
grievous indeed.
CIIArTF.ll XII.
BtlLDlNGS OF VALKNTIA. CAXALIt. IHIIIOATION. ITH NKW
MAMUrACTOHIP.H.
poll I, sii.Ks. PHooRKk* or n •
BUT let us enter the city of Valcntia, and examine the objects it encloses worthy of
remark.
Its exchange is a large building where the merchants and manufacturers assemble,
and where the principal object of their discourse and dealings is that most valuable pro-
duction of their country, silk.
Arts and literature ire rarely much cultivated in manufacturing or commercial towns.
However at Valcntia there is a public library belonging to the archbishop, which evei^
contains a collection of statues and antique busts.
The last archbishop of Valentia was a man of austere manners, which rendered him
adverse to profane enjoyments. His scruples have lessened the value of this collection,
by occasioning the mutilation of some of the statues of which it is composed. The play-
house at Saragossa was struck with lightning, he therei>pon obtained an order for that of
Valentia to be closed, and houses to be built on its site.
Since his death, the friends of the drama are preparing a new theatre under the di-
rection of Fontana ; a skilful architect invited some years ago to Madrid to decorate the
palace.*
El Real, the residence of the captain-general, is more remarkable for its charming
situation than for its form. It is an ancient and vast edifice, placed in a most conspicuous
quarter. Between the walls of the town and the suburbs, on this side, is a long espla-
nade, in which five bridges over Uie Guadalaviar terminate. Were this river full, it
would be difficult to imagine a more delightful prospect ; but it arrives at Valentia ex-
hausted by the abundant tributes it has afibrded in its course : for this is the river
* The building is com]>lctcd, but Vulentia i% still wiihuut pbys.
4 11 2
^o-*
o04
DOURGOANNE's .travels lU SPAIN.
which supplies the chief means for the irrigation of this fertile countrj'. 'I'hese irriga-
tions arc made imckr regulations which cannot he too much admired. Different cuts
Iron* this river conduct its water ihio numerous canals for the purpose of watering the
land (azcquias) and dift'usc its benelits over every estate. Kach proprietor knows the
hour and day allotted for his receiving this salutary visit. He then opens his sluices and
introduces the water into the small canals which surioiuid his territory, and which he is
n\ost expressly obliged to cleanse twice in a year. There are four azequias run from the
Guadalaviarat ditterent elevations. The chief istluit which begins at Gestalgar (called
Moncada) a borough four leagues from Valcntia, where an office for the management
of this aze(|uia is kept ; for in this kingdom irrigation forms an essential article of the
gjneral police ; and, in the capital, there is a tribunal exclusively charged with looking
to the execution of the laws which relate to it, and of punishing delinquents. Its sit-
tings are held in the vestibule of the cathedral ; and, notwithstanding the almost rustic
simplicity of its members, who are wholly farmers, it knows full well how to make itself
respected.
This general and periodical watering has undoubtedly great advantages. It maintains
verdure and fertility. It multiplies productions to such a degree as to maintain the earth
constantly covered with fruits. The leaves of the mulberry -trees are three times gather-
ed ; the meadows of trefoil and luzerne are mown eight, nay ten times a year ; and the
earth, not satisfied with bearing forests of olive and mulberry-trees, produces beneath
their shade, strawberries, grain, and vegetables. But this watering has also a great in-
convenience. This artificial fertility does not bestow on the plants that substance which
they receive from nature alone ; for which reason aliment in this country is much less
nourishing than in Castile. This abundance of water, which changes the nature of the
plants, appears likewise to have an effect upon the animal kingdom. Malignity has
assumed still more with respect to the human species, nor has it spared the fair ; it has
invented the following verses, which I am lar from adopting, and which with difficulty I
allow mvself to transcribe:
En Vulentiu la carne cs hicrbii, la hierba agiia, •'
Los hombres niugcrcs, y las mugeres na«la.* . ••
The finest walks of Valentia, the Alameda, Monte Olivite, and the road of Grao, u
little village half a league from Valentia, and by the sea side, are upon the banks of the
Guadalaviar.
For a long time Valentia has had no other harbour than the bad road opposite to
Grao. Small ships scarcely approached nearer than half a league to the coast, and those
of three masts were seldom seen there. Cargoes were put into barks, which were
brought almost to the shore, and afterwards drawn by oxen to the beach. Valentia
only wanted a port to make it one of the most flourishing towns in Spain. Within these
eight or nine years, government has been occupied in procuring for it this advantage. .
An able engineer, a pupil of Don Thomas Munoz, was charged with this undertaking.
Every thing contributed to his success ; the special protection of the captain -general of
the province, Don Louis de Urbina, the voluntary subscriptions of the merchants and
manuf:ictUi-ers, and an advance on the part of the bank of St. Charles, of 5,000,000 of
rials. The new port will h ive eighteen feet of water, and will even be able to re-
ceive frigates. It has been made, not by lowering the beach, but by elevating by arti- /.
♦ In Valentia meat is herbs, herbs water, men women, and women nothing.
i .',nl
BOCKGOANNE's I'UAViiLS IN SPAIK.
605
ficial means the water of the sea, means similar to those employed in creating a port at
Cherbourg.*
Thus the coast of Valentia will no longer throughout almost its whole extent remain
as it was wont, the dread of mariners ; for before this modern creation, it did not possess
one single good port. From the Alfaques, at the mouth of the Ebro, to Carthagena,
there were but the roads of Alicant and Santa Pola, the bottom of which could be de-
pended upon, or which aflbrded the least shelter in case of distress.
Under the administration of M. de Aranda, an establishment was attempted, which did
not realize the expectations conceived. A great number of Spanish slaves languished
in slavery under the Algcrines in the island of Tabarca ; Charles III, redeemed them,
and aflbrded them an asylum south of Alicant, in a small desert island, named from its
appropriation Nueva Tabarca. The attempt was laudable ; it turned out abortive. Na-
ture seems to have condemned this island to continue a desert, by refusing it wood, stone,
earth, and water.
A different destiny awaits the new port of the Grao. It has a prospect of great pros-
perity, and will no doubt much injure the port of Alicant. Previous even to its being
thought of, nothing could be more cheerful than the road from Valentia to the Grao ;
yet this small village was only peopled with fishermen ; and the neighbouring shore was
covered with wretched cabins. A fire having destroyed a number of them, they were
replaced by pretty uniform buildings, which the proprietors were obliged to construct
upon a particular plan : hence shortly will result a new town, which will not add a little
to the embellishments of the neighbourhood of Valentia.
In order to be delighted with a view of Valentia and its territory, you should see it
from the summit of the tower near the cathedral called the Miquelet. Hence the city
appears to be built in the middle of an immense orchard, interspersed with numerous
cottages, andtheGuadalaviaris seen training its diminished tide towards the sea. Hence
you distinguish the Albufera, a lake which runs by a very narrow channel into the Me-
diterranean ; a lake which upon a map, or even at the distance of a few leagues, might
be taken for a gulf. This lake abounds in water fowl, the shooting of which is a most
intoxicating amusement for the Valentians. They especially follow it up twice in the
course of November. At these times the lake is covered with moor-hens, teal, and wild
ducks. The sportsmen in boats drive the flocks before them, and oblige them to take
shelter among the flags ; at length, too closely pressed, they fly away in clouds, and then
it is that they are killed at pleasure. The Albufera belongs to the king, who farms it out
at 12,000 piastres. The iarmer sells his permission to shoot upon it. This is a sport
for those fond of shooting less fatiguing, and more productive than any other.
Strangers are shewn the cathedral of Valentia. It is an edifice rather elegant than
magnificent, the walls of which are cased with stucco in pannels with gold borders. It
contains, among other good paintings, some productions of Joanes, one of the best Spa-
nish painters of the second class. The Temple also is highly extolled, it is a modern
church built in a simple yet noble style ; and the college of the patriarch, the church of
which, blackened with smoke, possesses a relic which is shewn with much ceremony to
those who would see it, and those who would not.
* The works of this port have been continually carried on, but the success attendant upon them docs
not justify the original expectations. A duty had been laid upon silk, tlie produce of which is appro-
priated to the undertaking. DiflFercnt otlier funds are assigned, but winter destroys the progress of
the summer. The winds continually bring back shoals of sand to the entrance of the port ; and it is
much to be apprehended, that all these different expences will be a dead loss.
( .
606
OOURCOANNE's travels is SPAIN.
Other churches as well possess paintinj^s by Joancs, Rivalte, and Orcnte, the three
painters of Valentia who enjoy the highest repute.
What however chiefly give celebrity to the city and kingdom of Valentia are its ma-
nufactories. We shall say but little of that of its cloths, although it contributes ma-
terially towards the prosperity of a part of the kingdom, that which lies in the mountains
towards the west. There are. as it were hidden, the manufactories of ICngucrra, Onte-
nientc, Concentcyna, and particularly that of Alcoy. They work up most of the wool
of the country, which, notwithstanding it be of an inferior quality, makes very good
common cloths, and is much in demand for the manufactories of Languedoc. But silk
is for the inhabitants of this kingdom a matter of far different importance. Twenty
years oaek the produce greatly exceeded their means of converting it into manufac-
tures;* and then the motive of government for preventing its exportation was incon-
ceivable. Now that the number of looms is nearly doubled, the prohibition has a
reasonable motive. The inhabitants are even obliged to import silk continually from
Italy, and sometimes from France, as was the case after the bad crop of 1784 ; and as
has been the case when our manufacturers have been deficient of hands. However, a
part of the silk of Valentia finds its way out of the kingdom in spite of the vigilance of
administration. Its emission from that kingdom to the interior of Spain is not forbid-
den. There passes into Andalusia a much more considerable quantity than its looms
can employ ; and it is well known, that some descends the Guadalquivir, which is em-
barked for England.
The progress of the manufactories has greatly encouraged oflate years the planting of
mulberry trees. Every where are they planted, and every where do they succeed. A
few years ago there yet remained between Valentia and Murviedro a large tract of poor
and barren land, called £1 Arenal ; at present it is covered with mulberry trees. A plan-
ter there was mentioned to me, who gathers annually as much as twenty pounds weight
of silk-worm eggs, and possesses a sufficiency of mulberry-trees to furnish them food
without necessity of purchasing leaves ; and it is common for individuals to possess five,
six, and seven pounds of eggs. It may not be improper to observe, that all these mul-
benies are of the white kind (moreras) ; for, in some of the provinces of Spain, the king-
dom of Grenada for example, they are black (morales.) The leaves of the latter yield
a silk but little inferior to that from the white mulberries.
The leaves of the former are sold by cargas, each carga being equivalent to two hun-
dred and seventy pounds French. They are gathered once, twice, and at most three
times in a year ; but it seldom happens that the last crop is so abundant, or of equal
quality with the first. Beneath so auspicious a climate, the leaf of the mulberry-tree
may be gathered through the greater part of the year, but the leaves are plucked only as
they are wanted to supply the silk-worms. The number of these leafless trunks, which
increases as the season advances, tend greatly to lessen the beauty of these plains, so
green and so productive.
The silk of Valentia is comparable for fineness with the best produced in Europe ; but
there is a defect in the spinning : many thousand hands are employed who do not all
spin equally well. Hence an inequality in the tissue. Hence when we import it, it is
never used for fine works.
It is well known, that the beauty of silks depends much on the manner in which the
silk is wound from the cod. This first spinning is effected in three different manners,
according to the reels employed. That which has long been and continues to be
practised in Spain has this defect ; the small threads from six, seven, or eight balls,
* It is calculated, that the looms of Valentia work up a million lbs. of silk.
bouhcoanne's travels in si'ain.
607
the three
ire its ma-
>utes ma<
nountains
rra, Oiite-
the wool
'try good
But silk
Twenty
manurac-
i\s incon-
ion has a
lally from
and as
Dwever, a
gilance of
)t forbid-
its looms
ch is em-
lanting of
ceed. A
:t of poor
A plan-
Is weight
lem food
isess five,
icse mul-
the king,
tter yield
two hun-
lost three
of equal
)erry-trec
d only as
:s, which
tlains, so
>pe ; but
o not all
rt it, it is
hich the
manners,
;s to be
ht balls,
which arc stripped at a time, unite to form one thread on the spindle, without its being
previously rubbed against another ; so that the thread of silk thus formed is flossy and
easily breaks. The second mode of winding is that used by the Piedmontese ; it con-
sists in causing each thread of silk to be united with another, and not to be separated un-
til they have first twisted four or five times round the other. The third manner is that
of Vaucanson, and is an improvement o the last. In the rtel which he invented, the two^
threads of silk, after their first twisting, unite a second time for the same purpose. This
operation is called the double croisadc.
If these threads thus wound on the spindles be designed for the woof, they are set in
a machine of several stories, where they are separately twisted. Thence they are re-
moved to another machine where they arc twisted together ; after which they are ready
for the loom. The threads designed for the warp arc twisted only at the instant of re-
union.
But before the threads are twisted two together, they undergo the operation of la
breve, which consists in stretching them over a shallow boiler containing viscous mat-
ter, in a state of ebullition, the exhalations from which fit them for imiting one to the
other. They are afterwards carried to the machine where they are twisted. Organzine
is the silk in the state it leaves this machine. It is only in this shape that it is permitted
to be exported from Piedmont, where the operation of twisting was better performed
(before the method of Vaucanson was perfected) than in any other country. The me-
thod of that skilful machinist, which embraces all the operations relative to the manufac-
ture of silk stuffs, is exclusively practised by the manufacturers of Lyons ; but the silk
of this country alone can be used with the reels for the double croisade, which go by his
name ; for foreign silk, a greater part of which is used in these manufactories, must be
organised before it is exported.
For a long time machines to save labour, have been known in Valentiaas well as at
Talavera de la Reyna. In the latter town I noticed one single wheel with teeth, which
set in motion a thousand of those little spindles on which the twisted threads of silk arc
wound. The machinery of Valentia is on a smaller scale than at Talavera, for the for-
mer place does not like the latter contain a whole royal manufactory comprised in one en-
closure. Each manufacturer here meets in dispersed quarters with the machines and
hands requisite.
As to spinning, the Spaniar^'a still adhere to their defective method with an obsti-
nacy, which the government has latterly thought it right to oppose. In 1781 it caused
a French merchant, established at Madrid, to enter into an engagement, to supply first
the manufi'ctories of Murcia and Valentia, and in succession such others as might de-
sire them with reels after the plan of Vaucanson. But Spanish idleness rejected the
adopting of a silk, which. twisted in this manner is closer and more fine, and requires
greater nicety in weaving, without obtaining an augmentation of price, adequate to the
extra labour. In consequence French hands were employed in the first experiments of
this description.
La Paycsse, an intelligent manufacturer, established a manufactory on a large scale at
Milanesa, near Valentia, wherein silk was spun, wound, and organized after the manner
of Vaucanson ; but this silk being dearer by from 50 to 60 rials the pound than that
prepared after ;he Spanish mode, it was less in demand, so that this estimable citizen was
a loser by his experiment. Nevertheless he was not disheartened. He called theory
to the assistance of practice, and published a treatise on the art of spinning, winding,
doubling, and twisting, after the manner of Vaucanson. He even offered to instruct the
proprietors of silk- worms, and direct them in their operations. But it is greatly to be
008
BOURGOANNE's travels IW SPAIN.
apprehended that these attempts will be abortive as long as all the implements used in
Spanish manufactories arc in such a state of imperfection, as disgusts th'; intelligent ob-
server, although it appear not to have sufficiently struck the government. It must,
however, be allowed, that in Spain they give the appearance of mohair to their silk in
Valentia in as excellent a manner as in any other part of Europe. The Valentians owe
the perfection to uhich they have attained lo Don Manuel Fez, a manufacturer full
of zeal, who discovered this secret by stealth among the Levantines, in a voyage to
Turkey for that express purpose.
But tlic other branches of the manufactories of Valentia have not of late years im-
proved as might be expected ; this is imputable to the regimen with respect to silks
adopted by government, and the almost incurable predilection of the Valentians for
tluir old customs.
The patriotic society of \'alcnlia has however lately attempted to further the progress
of industry.* None has more diligently or more successfully exerted itself in favour of
useful establishments. This society encourages the planting of mulberry trees, improve-
ments in the piiparation of silk, and adjudges prizes to the inventors of new machinery
calculated to simplify the process of the arts. The patriotic societies of Spain are a
modern institution not yet arrived at perfection, but which already shews and keeps up
a public spirit. The French republic, when peace resumes its empire, will possibly lind
it advantageous to adopt similar institutions, lor the purpose of repairing with prompti-
tude the injuries sustained by industry from the revolution.
Much has the commerce of Valentia suffered from the war between England and
Spain. Its port has been almost entirely abandoned, and thr pivnluctions of this beauti-
ful country have (;xperienced, as well in their price as in their sale, a material reduction.
The price of the pound of silk, for example, has fallen from live to three piastres ; which
proves what we have previously observed, that in spite of proliibition during peace a
great proportion of the silk of Valentia is exported.
CHAPTER XIIT.
ENVIRONS OF VALENTIA. BENIMAMET. BUKJASOT, THK C H ARTREUSES. MUUVUDHO, THE ANCIENT
SAGl'XTUM. COASTOF THK Kl NGDOM OF VALENTIA. MODERN ESTABLISHMENT OF SAN CARLOS.
PASSAGE OF THE EBRD.
DURING the fine season, which comprises in Valentia almost the whole of the year,
the environs of the capital are delightful to behold. A number of pleasing rural ha-
bitations have a claim on the curiosity of the traveller. I particularly recommend to such
the village of Benimamet, half a league distant from Valentia, and among its country-
houses that especially occupied some years back by Don Pedro Majoral, canon of the
cathedral. : t is on an eminence in the centre of a garden wherein orange and lemon
trees embalm with their fragrance the purest atmosphere. The coolness of iis alleys,
the variety of views it commands, the fertility which surrounds it, combine to make it
a delicious residence. There it is, nay in a hundred places in Valentia, you will fiiid
that the sensible and elegant Swede who filled the emba.ssy to Paris,t erred not widely
from the truth when he said, "in this happy country every thing is forgot, you cease
to belong to any nation, to have any business, are no more a husband, a father, nor a
friend; you feel yourself an insulated being intoxicated with the beauties of nature,
•Notwithstanding the recommendations and encouragement of tliis society, mulberry trees have
rather diminished than increased within these late years, on account of government not interiiering suffi-
ciently to prevent the augmentation of rice grounds. :
tThe count dc Crutz.
lOURGOANNf.'s IHAVELS IN SPAIN.
609
ts used in
ligent ob-
it must,
eir silk in
itians owe
turcr full
voyage to
years im-
t to silks
uinns for
progress
favour of
improve-
lachinery
)ain arc a
keeps up
sibly lincl
prompti-
land and
IS beauti-
-duction.
i ; which
J peace a
! ANCIENT
N CARLOS.
the year,
urai ha-
1 to such
country-
:>n of the
id lemon
IS alleys,
• make it
will fiiid
it widely
uu cease
er, nor a
■ nature,
rees have
ring suffi-
*' and relishing existence." In the garden which brings to my remembrance this rhap-
sody, and which if it con Id b'- realized, would realize the statement I met some years ago
from the good Canon Mayoral, with a reception which I shall never forget. The sere-
nity which reigned about him seemed to dwell in his soul, and was painted in his fea
tnres. Towards me he was prodigal of kindness, as nature had been to him of her gifts.
He is no more. Sit illi terra levis.
A (jnarter of a league from Beniniamet there is another village on higher groimd,
called Burjasot. Here, besides tiie tomb of Mademoiselle L'Advenant, a celebrated ac-
tress, the Le Couvreur of France, u ho, more Ibrtunate than her, was allowed without
obstruction an asylum under shelter of tlie altar, travellers are shewn, as one of the curio-
sities of the country, the Sichas, or Silhos, which are large cavities from 25 to 30 feet
deep, dug in the form of immense jars, and eased with masonr}-. They are the work
of the Moors, who used Uiem as granaries, to which purpose they are applied by the
Valentians.
Twenty other sites about Valentia exact the attention of the traveller. If desirous ol
seeing a fine convent of Franciscan monks, he may visit and admire that of San Miguel
de los Reyes. He will have it proposed to him to walk to the three chartreuses, situ
ated in the neighbourhood of Valentia, all of them in a delicious situation. One in
particular, that of porta Celi, deserves aspecial notice; every thing shews opulence,
every thing tends there to maintain the quiet of the soul. Whatever aversion to mo-
nastic life a man may entertain, he cannot resist a sensation of esteem for those silent soli
taries, not unmindful of the benefits which nature has spread around them, who tran-
quilly laborious, austere yet not uncivil, apparently do wrong to none except them
selves. I visited some of their cells, the furniture of them was neatly trim and elegantly
simple. I walked as well to their cemetery. Its boundaries are marked by palm-trees
which shade the tombs beneath ; beside them roses grow as if to prevent the morti*
remains of humanity from infecting the air respired in this sacred asylum. I regretted
that it was uncommon thus to represent death under less hideous forms, and banish those
images which render it so terrible. Why, said I, why endeavour to strew with mourn-
ful objects, to surround with frightful precipices, this road which none can shun ? Why
not rather assist mortality to tread this path, if not with cheerfulness, yet with serenity '?
Away then from the bed of death, av/ay from the bier with objects exciting gloom, or
what may alarm those who survive. Let us enjoy free from excess, and consequently
from remorse, the blessings the earth supplies ; and when the organized dust which the
breath of life animates for a few seconds, be required again by our common mother,
may it serve to make fruitful her entrails, and if possible adorn her face.
But let us leave Valentia and its charming environs, to resmtie the road to Barcelona.
The first remarkable place at which the traveller arrives beyond Valentia is the an-
cient Saguntum, now called Murviedro. The castles by which it is commanded are
discerned at two leagues distance. At Irst you are induced to conceive them the re-
mains of the ramparts from which the i'^aguntines so long repelled the Carthaginian
hero, but afterwards learn that these castles \vere the work of the Moors. They built
upon the heights on which these castles are situated seven fortresses, that communicate
with each other by subterraneous passages, some of which are still almost entire. It ap-
pears that Saguntum was built halfway up the eminence, and in particular extended on
the other side into the plain approaching the sea, far beyond the site of Murviedro, since
Livy says it was not more than a thousand paces from it ; w hereas the prcseni confines
of Murviedro arc a league from the sea.
VOL. V. 4 I
1 i
I i
I (
i.i
'1 -i
I'-
IJi
J:'
w
610
BOURGOANNE's IKAVELS IN 31'AIN.
Murvicdro still abounds m» stoncb with Phoenician or Latin inscriptions. The latter are
numerous in the walls of some ol' the streets ; and there arc five of them, remarkably
well preserved, in the walls of a church. It is likely that such as arc found on the side
of the mountain, or even higher, have been carried thither by the Moors, in common
with other stones for building. Thus, in the walls of their ancient fortresses, we find a
statute of uhite marble without a head, and some stones with inscriptions placed in an
inverted position.
The monuments, the remains of which are still in preservation at Murvicdro, date
their construction from the period that the Romans, after the brave defence and dcslruc-
lioM of their town, rebuilt it, made it a municipal city, and one of the most superb cities
to be found out of Italy. They had among others a temple dedicated to Bacchus, the
wreck of which is yet visible, on the left near the entrance into Murvicdro ; its pave-
ment in mosaic, which was suffered to fall to decay through neglect, has been taken up
and transported to the library of the archbishop.
The foundation of the ancient Circus of Saguntuni is still discoverable, upon which
walls, serving as an inclosuretoa long continuation of orchards, have been built. This
Circus, as it is easy to perceive, was adjoining to a small river, which was the chord of
the segment formed by the Circus. The bed only of the river now remains. It cannot
be doubted but that, when the mock sea fights, called Naumachioe, were here exhibited,
this bed was filled by the tribute of neighbouring canals which still exist.
But of all that remains of old Saguntum, nothing is in so good preservation as the
theatre. In it you may plainly distinguish the different seats which the citizens occupied,
each class according to its rank. At the bottom, in the place of our orchestra, are thi
seats for the magistrates ; next, those for the equestrian order ; and last of all, those for
the peoi)le. The two door ways at which the magistrates entered still remain ; also two
higher up, exclusively rescr^•ed for the equestrian order ; and almost at the top of the
amphitheatre, which continues without interruption from top to bottom, the t^vo gal-
leries by which the multitude withdrew, and for that reason called by the ancients vom-
itoria ; lastly, the four or five highest rows of seats which were destined to lictors and
courtesans, are yet entire, as well as the semicircular roof of the whole edifice. On the
outside there yet remain the projecting stones, wherein the bars were inserted to which
was fastened the great horizontal covering which sheltered the whole assembly from the
rain and sim ; for the ancients in constructing their theatres foresaw and provided against
t:very thing. Every one had a seat, and all were secure from the inclemency of the
weather. Every means was taken to prevent disorder. In a spot still discernible the
judges were seated. If any turbulent spectator drew upon himself their animadversion,
they had I'ctors at hand to seize him ;, who conducted him into a private chamber, be-
tween which and the judges seats there was a communication by a private staircase: he
was there interrogated, and if found culpable, was confined in a prison, under the
chamber in which he was interrogated, till the conclusion of the representation.
Dean Marti, who has given a detailed account of the ancient Saguntum, estimates it
capable of containing nine thousand persons ; and this appeared to me credible. Many
wonder how thj actors should, in the open air, have been able to make themselves heard
by so numerous an audience with their natural voice. However, in 1783, I convinced
myself it was possible by placing a boy whtTe the stage formerly was, whilst I was at
the top of the amphitheatre, and making him repeat phrases, of which I lost not a word.
No traces of the stage remain. Beyond the amphitheatre, of which some of the
benches towards the centre are sensibly decayed, the vestiges of the place occupied by
the actors are with difficulty distinguished ; it offers nothing but a few trees and ruin-
BOURCOANNE's travels IV SPAIN.
rilt
latter arc
niarkably
'1 the bide
common
we find a
ccd ill an
dro, date
dcstruc-
cib cities
clius, tlie
its pave-
taken up
3n which
t. This
chord of
[t cannot
sliibited.
>n as thf
ccupied,
, are the
those for
also two
p of the
two gal-
rits vom-
tors and
On the
to which
from the
1 against
{ of the
ible the
version,
Jer, be-
ase: he
dcr the
mates it
Many
s heard
tivinced
' was at
a word,
of the
pied by
d ruin-
ated buildings. The front of the ancient stage has been convtrltd into an alley of nnil
Ijcrry trees, where ropcmakcrs have estalili.^hed their moving trade.
No care was taken to preserve this »;i!nablc monument. A jailer had his habitation
there, which he extended or changed as convenient. A few poor families build within
it wretched huts, of which the Romans, almost twenty centuries before, prepared the
walls and ceiling. Never was time better assisted in its ravages. The sacrilege would
have drawn tears Horn Caylusor Winkelmann. At length, in 1787, they began to bo
repaired. Tlie Corregidor of Murviedro, raising from the dead as it ^vere this corpse
of a Roman theatre, relieved it from degradation, and restored it for some hours to its
ancient use, by causing a Spanish piece to be represented within its walls.
One of the late eaptiiins-general of the kingdom of Valentia, Don Louis dc Urbina,
improved upon this solemn repuratio.i. Under his auspices it was attempted to make
the theatre of Saguntum fit for its ancient destination. A V'alentian jinet, Don Francisco
Bamahonda, composed a tragedy, the subject of which was worth}' of the country and
worthy of the theatre ; it was the siege of Sagunlum itself, it was that noble self-devotion
which covered with ashes, blood and glory, that land dear to honour, and dear to liberty ;
but it appears this fine project has vanished into air, at least it is said there is no longer
an intention of reviving the theatre of Saguntum, and it is left as before to the obscrva
tions of antiquaries.*
From the place which it occupies you ascend with dilHculty to tlie ancient fortresses of
the Moors which crown the enclosure. Upon the platform on the summit is an hum-
ble hermitage, the inhabitant of which enjoys one of the finest prospects in Spain. It
commands the rich plain which separates Murviedro from Valentia. Thence you see
the steeples oi this capital rising through the orchards by which it is surrounded. Before,
you behold in perspective a considerable part of the Mediterranean, the shores of which
are covered with vineyard's, olive and mulberry trees, from Murviedro to the edges of its
banks : on the left a chain of hills bounds the horizon, and insensibly diminishes to a
level with the sea, leaving no interval but that formed by the road to Barcelona.
The wine in the environs of Murviedro is strong and well tasted; but most of it is
converted into brandy, which is put into barrels and conveyed to a small port about a
league from Murviedro, whence they are shipped for the North, for France, or for Span-
ish America, which, since trade has been thrown open, afford a considerable market for
the brandies of the coast of Valentia.
Beyond Murviedro, vast fields shaded by olive trees and carobs, rich vineyards, and
pictures of the most cheerful fertility accompany you, as you travel over a superb road,
the whole of the way from that town to Castillon de la Plana, a borough seven leagues
from Valentia. ,
At a great league from Murviedro we stopped awhile at Almenara, a village agreeably
situated on an eminence. Here I found five curates transported from the Roussillon,
to whom government had granted an asylum in a convent of Dominicans. It was con-
sequent that many of these exiles would seek refuge in preference in a neighbouring state
of the catholic persuasion ; and on the way I scarcely passed a league without meeting
with some. At first they took up their residence in the capital, and most considerable
towns of the peninsula, hoping to find in these places greater resources than elsewhere.
They excited in the beginning a double interest, as objects of distress, and persecuted
martyrs of religion. The faithful, in their blind veneration for these victims, went so
far as to prefer them to their own priests, the more so, from wretchedness obliging those
*It was Townshcnd, the English traveller, who first drew aniomentary attention to this theatre,
4 I 2
I i
%
r.-
612
MOUnUOANNC S rnAVELS IN SPAIN.
to cheapen, if I may \ise the expression, the spiritual trca:inrcs they dispensed. The in-
terests of mortality soon however spake louder than the interests of heavm. The indi
genous priests took umbrage at the prosperity of the intruders ; and whether govern-
ment paid any respect to their representations ; whether they conceived it dangerous to
suft'ertliosc delicate questions, which relate to die rights of kings and snhjcrts, to he dis-
cussed in places where numbers were collected together, it dispersed the French eccle-
siastics over a larger surface. It ordered some to the convents of the interior, and even
fixed the number that each was allowed to receive.
To return to Almenara. From this pretty borough to Castellon the country is
rather less fertile, althouf^h every where well peopled, and enlivened by industry. Wc
passed through t^\o large towns, Nulis and Villareal ; after which wc crossed (a thing
sufficiently common in Spain) by a very handsome bridge, a large river vvliich was
nearly dry.
After you leave Cstellon fine roads are no further continued, and nothing can be more
sudden than the transition. Descending by an extremely rugged road, you approach the
sea, which is kept in sight for the space of a league. You afterwards have to encoun-
ter a very steep hill, and are terribly jolted until you arrive at the castle of Oropesa,
situated on an ciiiinence near the margin of the Mediterranean. Thence, as far as La
Venta de Senienta, the road is tolerably smooth. After passing Castillon, the soil is per-
ceptibly less rich. The whole country you travel over in surmounting the hill of Oro-
pesa is unpeopled, and presents the most hideous aspect ; beyond it, the country is a little
cultivated, but stony roads still continue as far as Alcala dc Sibert, a kind of town half
way up a hill, in a country not the most cheerful or productive.
At length you re-approach the sea, and the last ports of the coasts ofValentia.
The first that you meet with, after having wound about with difficulty amidst the
mountains, isBenicarlo, inhabited principally by fishermen. Here begin the flat roofs,
and jargon of Catalonia ; this is a species of corrupt Spanish, which greatly resembles the
patois of Roussillon, without a knowledge of which it would be difhcult for a person to
make himself understood in Catalonia.
At a great league from Benicarlo is another more in.,jortant port, Venaroz, a large
town of |)retty good appearance, containing from eleven to twelve hundred houses. The
environs of Benicarlo and Venaroz are planted with vines, the produce of which is con-
verted into brandies, which are exported. Venaroz is not, properly speaking, a sea port.
I found there, however, about fifty small vessels ; these, instead of la}ing at anchor,
were on the beach out of water. Many of these barks go coastwise as iiir as Cadiz and
Marseilles ; some even venture to the Havanna.
At a league beyond Venaroz the fine road began again in 1793, with a small bridge
newly constructed on the spot, which forms the limit of Catalonia and the kingdom of
Valentia ; and was continued three leagues to San Carlos, a new establishment w hich
deserves detail.
San Carlos is directly on the sea shore. It is the capital of the establishment of the
Alfaques, a name gi\ en to a sort of port formed by the mouth of the Ebro. The AU
faques, properly speaking, are a long tongue of land, narrow and semicircular, being a
prolongation of the left bank of that river. San Carlos is situated opposite to this point
of land ; and this is the point of the coast which ships make for. It consists of two fine
buildings placed along the road. A large oblong square separates them from another
row of symetrical buildings, one of which may rank among the best taverns in Spain.
It is extremely clean, and tolerably well furnished ; it has also a good larder : but with
reason we may again ask the Spaniards why, like so many others, is this hotel kept by a
BOURCOANN£*S TRAVELS IN STAIN.
613
The in-
The indi
t-T govern-
i;^«.Tous to
to he clis-
nch ecclc
', and even
:oiintrv h
try. We
(a thini>
liich wMs
n he more
)roach the
:» eiicoun-
Oroj)csa,
i'ar as La
ioil is per-
il of Oro-
is a little
town half
nidst the
flat roofs,
■nblcs the
person to
'; a large
ies. The
« is con-
sea port,
anchor,
adiz and
II bridge
jdoin of
it which
t of the
'he Al.
being a
is point
W'o fine
another
Spain,
utwith
pt by a
Milanese? The Mediterranean uashes its walls. When I passed It in 170.3 tluy were
stilt at work on the new port. The object of this istablishnicnt l)Cfj;iiii in 1780 was to
people a peninsula, up to that time a w;:ste, and to render the nioudi of the Kbro of
service to navigation and trade. In this narrow penitisnla there was more tlvin a thou<
sand acres to distribute, but lew colonists up to that |)eri(Kl had gone thither to establish
themselves, on account of die land Ik longing to individuals of Aniposta, and some
neighbouring villages for the most part, who go ihilher to cultivate it, without chang-
ing their abode. The project of government was to dig u large port on this spot, and
to facilitate the passage from the Ebro, which is much incumbered below Amposta.
For this |)urpose a canal was begun at this latter place which was to end at San Carlos,
and on which canal, as early as 1793, all the materials necessary for this establishment
were convejed in flat bottomed boats. IJy deepening this canal, it will be made na-
vigable from Amposta to San Carlos ; thereby rendering the Mbro passable for ships to
sea. A deficiency of funds retarded in measure the works. In 1793 a battery was
begun in advance before San Carlos. All these works were under the management of
a Parmesan of the name of Nodin, a skilful artist to whom is owing all the success of
the plan. But here again, why do tlic Spaniards leave the province of embellishing,
enlivening and fortifying their coasts to Italians?
This establishment however was not very far advanced in the spring of 1793, and
probably will never produce all the cffoct expected by the court;* the largest vessels,
however, may anchor widiin musket shot of San Carlos, and at the period I was there,
the greater part of the regiments from the dilVerent parts of the Mediterranean, intended
for Catalonia, came thidier to disembark. Uut the air of San Carlos is unhealthy ; and
it is not at the simple signal of a government that commerce, the most capricious of all
despots, forsakes its old resorts.
CHAPTER XIV.
KNTRAKCE INTO CATALONIA. PASSAGE OF THE (01, PE HALACIUET. CAMHIIILS.
REUS. TERRAUONV. ROMAN MONCMKNTS. MONTSERHAT.
TORTOSA.
THE Ebro crossed, you traverse an immense unpeopled district, mostly covered with
heath. The whole of this country is intersected by ravines, which renders it extremely
laborious to travel over in a coach. Tlius did we journey for live wearisome leagues
before we descended into the miserable borough of rrellos in the bottom of a basin sur-
rounded by a double rampart of mountains. We here secured two asses which were
brought to the place where we slept. The frightful description given us of our next day's
journey, had made us think this precauti(jn necessary.
It is in my opinion one of the most striking phenomena in Europe to a traveller, to
find in a country so well known as Spain, between two cities so considerable as Valen-
tia and Barcelona, almost close to the sea-shore, near the mouth of a great river, and
on a road so much frequented by travellers of all classes, and of all countries ; to find,
I say, such a vast district so much deprived of resources, and so destitute in appearance
of all those comforts which luxury and civilization bring in their train, and every where
engender. This is a reflection the most superficial observer cannot refrain from making,
particularly between the borders of the Ebro, and the vicinity of Barcelona. I doubt
whether in the midst of Siberia, or about the gulf of Bothnia, a traveller would be more
ibare of resources or consider himself more abandoned by the universe.
•This prediction has been verified; since 1793 considerable sums of money have been expended
#n the establishment of San Carlos, and yet it is imperfect.
', I
t
•■r.l
oil
ilOURGOANNIi. S 1RAVEL3 IN SPAIN.
From Pcrcllos the distance is two short leagues to the Vcnta del Platcro, a ta-
vern slanding entirely by itstlf at the loot ul" mountains, and enibo«>oinc'd in woods.
VVc had some mcrelmnts ior fellow travellers, who j^avc uh .small romCort by their do-
scription of our morrow's journey, the more diflii iiU for ns according; to them, from
the number of our party, and our being burthened with two children of a very tender
VVc began this painfid journey by six o'clock in the mornmg, myself on foot, my
wife seated on one of the animals wc had hired at IVrellos, and our two children in
paiu»icrs on Uk- opposite flanks of the other, sheltered as well as wc were able from the
keen norih wind. Thus did wc travel for two leagues and a half over the most horrid
countr\ ; afterwards wc climbed by a long spiral march the famous col de Balaepiet, a
steep uKumtain mar the sea. As we arrived at the summit we found ourselves at the
foot of a diminutive fort, which had in garrison u small cUtiichnKut of Walloon
guards.
Four leaj^ues farther, after having passed through a small \illage on the sea- shore, b}
a tower, and the ruins of an old castle, and after gettin through some ver) rugged
passes, we arrived at Cambrils, a town of three or four i. dred houses on a wretclied
l)each, ^vlK re some few barks resort for loading wines. Its site is very unhealthy and
tertian agues arc very common. This scourge had shortly before depopulated a convent
of Augustine monks, the .solitary walls of w liich were pointed out to our party.
An unhappy family of pilgrims with which we had climbed the mountain jf Bala-
(juet, resided in this place. It had been in search of health to the miraculous image ol
Vinaroz, and brought back but addition to their misery. A mother, four or five young-
girls with their feet bare, and with rags, with two infants perishing with cold, and
nipped with hunger, were treading l)ack their weary steps, invoking by the way the
pity of travellers, sometimes more easily excited than that of heaven. What sad re-
llections did the sight of these wretched victims of fate and superstition excite in our
breasts ! Unfortunate family ! It returned on fool, without means of support, from a
wearisome and fruitless expedition, and >et appeared resigned ! Aiid I, and I to mur-
nuir, at rough passages tliat jolted my berline, tight, and well hung, and well provided
with necessaries, with whatever was useful, and even with luxuries ! I reproved myself
for possessing these conveniences as well as for my murmurings. Almost did I reproach
myself on account of the modest conveyance ibr my wife and children. I appeased
my remorse by giving them charity, which at first was received with an effusion of gra-
titude ; at length the chief pilgrim chiUed my compassion by her importunities, her
want of feeling to tlie unfortunate beings she carried or dragged in her train, and
above ail by the offer she made me ot telling my fortune. At first I imagined I had
found a pious and devout woman, a tender mother. My heart was froze at the mere
aspect of a mercenary gypscy. How frequently would pity lie barren, or even give
place to callosity, if the torch of examination were ever to light with its blaze ! Is it
not a blessing on the part of heaven for the unhappy, that it often possesses the unre.
fleeting promptitude of instinct. I coine bad; to Cambrils.
This bad port is frequented only by some barks w hich take in lading for Cadiz, Ge-
noa, and some other places. If over^iaken oft this beach by bad weather, they make
for Salo, which is but half a league distant.
From Cambrils we went l>y a narrow and very rugged road for the space of four
leagues, and slept at Serrafina after passing through the pretty borough of Villaseca.
Travelling from the Ebro, wc left Tortosa on its left bunk, situated on the slope of a
mountain, four leagues from the sea. It is an episcopal see, and contains sixteen thou-
BOl'Kf.OANNK S TKAVCLS IN SrAIN.
(il.'i
'ro, u ta.
II woods,
their clc
nn, from
ry tender
foot, inv
>ildrcij In
from the
)st horrid
I'Kliiit, a
cs at the
W'ullooii
horc, b}
rugged
victched
hhy :ind
convent
jf Bala-
image of
c young
5ld, and
^vay the
sad rc-
- in our
I from a
to miir-
rovidcd
myscll
cproacli
Ppcased
of gra-
ys, her
in, and
II hud
e mere
;n give
! Is it
: unre.
2, Ge-
make
sand Inhabitants. Its neighbourhood is highly cuhivntcd, and it carries on n buMling
trade in wheat, owing to its positicjn on the Mhro, which is NufTicicntly deep to carry large
barks. I ass than a leagiii from the town those famous (piarriesol* inarlile are situattcl,
known by the name of Tortosa jasper. Nothing can be more melancholy, morrdc
sorted than the space of fifteen leagues which separate Tortosa from C'ambrils ; and
(vw roads are less passable than that from Tortosa to Temigona.
I'rom Caml)rils the plain spreads, and here you again meet with plantations of olive
taes, carobs, and vines, in tolerable abundance.
From a league beyond Serrafina you perceive the spires of Terragonn, an ancient
town in a picturesque situation, on a steep and rocky eminence. A colony of the Sci-
pios, it remained for a length of time the seat of the Roman government in Spain. The
sea bathes its walls, apd forms a little port, the trade of which has gnatly diminislicd
since Reus has become more frequented.
Reus* is a modern town, which industry in a short space of time has raised to a high
degree of prosperity. It is situated inland, about lour leagues north-wc»t of Terra-
gona, from which it is separated by one of the most fertile and best cultivated plains in
Spain. The inhabitants of Kf.us use the port of Salo for exporting their fruits, wines,
and brandies. The prosperity which they enjoy is one of the miraculous creations of
industry, and well deserves the traveller should turn out of his road a few leagues to
be a witness thereto. Under the directiofi of an Knglish house at Reus there is one of
the finest distilleries in Kurope, it h.>s also a jjretty theatre, very handsome barracks,
and the image of activity and abundance in every quarter. A quantity of hides arc
dressed here, as well as at the town of Bails or Veils which is not far from it.
The inhabitants of the ancient Terragona struggle as well as they are able with their
new rivals. Emulous of restoring to their harbour its former prosperity, they have
undertaken at their own expence to imnrove it, by throwing out jetties, which will
render it more commodious and safe. The court has given them assistance in this un-
dertaking, by making some concessions in their favour, and by exempting them from
divers impositions. Even war has not deterred them from the prosecution of their
patriotic measures.f
Below the town of Terragona, and before you enter it, yon ford the litdc river
Francoli, which empties itself close by into the sea. Terragona was formerly a place
of strength, and part of its ancient walls remain. When I passed it in 1793 a fort had
just been constructed there with embrasures. Its object was chiefly to prevent an ap-
proach to the beach. You may keep on the road to Barcelona, without entering Ter.
ragona ; but curious to see this celebrated town, I climbed up to it by a steep path. I
was struck with the beauty of its position, but found its interior mournful and deserted.
Rocks on every side render the approach to it difficult, and most particularly so for car-
riages. Its cathedral is handsome, but gloomy and supported by pillars of an enormous
size.
Terragona contains a number of Roman monuments. Such are the remains of a
circus, an amphitheatre, the ruins of the palace of the emperor Augujhis, a heap of Ro-
man inscriptions, and above all the remains of an aqueduct, extending for six or seven
leagues, which in 1782 it was in contemplation to re-establish.
I 1
f four
:ca.
le of a
thou-
* The nianufactories of Reus have suffered in the last war; but the activity of the Catalans may be
relied on for their restoration.
t It has not been crowned with success. The woriis begun at the port of Terragona have been aban-
doned.
i
• (
r.id
nOlTHCOANNI S IRAVFLI IN IPAIN.
As you leave the p;atc which leads to Uarcelona, ) on descend ahnnst perpendicularly
to rc^uin du- gr«.al road. Tiic enviruns of Tcrrajjona, arc, however, chctrful and
Ucll ihlial)itid. You have an alino»l uninterrupted hucoesslon ul pretty houses, from
the town to the liaudct of Figarretta aliout a league di-itant.
Tuo great league;* lH)()n(i you pasH inider a handsome trnimphal nrch, formerly
intended, without doubt, to in^nortalize some exploit on a Ircqumied spot ; at present
it standi liy itself in the midst of the countrv. It is in tolerably good preservation, except
its capitals uhieh appear lo hive been of the Corinthian order, and which it has been
uttempt( (I to rcnev.-. The learned in Spain huvc no doubt of its being erected in
Traj.m's lime. A leagtie to die right ol the road is another moininunt, which has r« •
( eivtd nun h jj;iiatir damage, calleil ihc tower of the Scipios, from tradition handing
down lh.it \\\it Uohians of that name were buried ih> iv. Notwitlistanding the ravage
of time has worn away all the forms, you may yet distinguisli two slaves in an uttitmle
of grief.
A little beyond the triumphal nrch, you find the pretty village of Altafolla delight-
full) situated, and another ealleil Torre dilKml)arr on an eminence near the sea. i'liis
last has a sort of port or roatl which receives a few barks.
The whole of this country, \vhicli wc travelled over in the beginning of March, with
the C'atalonians the infancy of the year, appeared to us singularly pleasant from the mild-
ness of die climate, the variety of cultivation, and the loveliness of certain positions. All
that it wants is roads a little less rough.
The great vill.igc of Vendrell, u here the French consul at Barcelona, Aubert, had an
estate, is some leagues from the Torre del F.mbarr. I observed with pleasure in its
neighbourhood a new and pretty chateau, a true ct)untry house placed on the side o( a
hill in an agreeable situation. 1 learned that it had been recently built and was con-
stantly inhabited by Mr. Peru de Soulis, a modest agriculturist, who, difl'ering from the
major part of his countrymen, adoptetl exclusively a country life. In a country where
the fine season of the year is of nine or ten months duration ; where the winter never
severe scarcely changes the robe of the fields, that this inclination should be so unusual
is extraordinary.
Beyond Vendrill you cross a rather arid country, to reach the pretty borough of V^il-
lafranca, on leaving which you have before you a chain of mountains, which fringe the
borders of almost the whole horizon. There the famous monastery of Montserrat is
situated, steep and solitary asylum of those monks, who have fixed the attention of
more than one traveller, and among whom I understood some prelates from France had
retired.
The monastery of Montserrat is eight leagues north-west of Barcelona. The only
rcmarjiable place in this distance is the borough of Terrasa known for its manufacture
of fine cloths. The monastery is situated on the slope of a high mountain, and joins
the church, which is one of the most remarkable monuments of sumptuous superstition.
It contains eighty lamps of silver, chandeliers, relics, crosses, and busts, all of the same
metal, crowns enriched ^vitli precious stones, magnificent vestments, &c. the whole
destined to the decoration of a miraculous virgin.
What an extravagant profusion in a country in w hich industry has yet so much need
of assistance ! I shall not preach either the profanation or violent spoliation of temples.
These sudden reforms, these fits of persecution, presupi)ose and bring on other excesses.
Recommended perhaps by reason they are executed by rage ; and the oblo(iuy thereof
is the smallest damage they occasion. But were these treasures appropriated to render
the communication perfect between Valentia and Barcelona, between Barcelona and
IOURCOANNR's inAVEI.S IN SfAIK.
017
Mndiculnrly
hcirful and
oiihcs, from
h, formerly
; at prcditu
lion, except
it luiH l)C(li
• PC ted ill
licli li.iN n •
on huikding
the raviifjc
I an attitiKli:
Mil delight-
sea. This
lurch, with
n the mild-
litions. All
xrt, had an
isurc in its
10 side cf a
[I was con-
g from ihc
ntry where
inter never
so unusital
igh of Vil-
i fringe the
jntscrrat is
ittontion of
France had
The only
anufacturc
, and joins
iperstition.
i the same
the whole
inch need
f temples.
■ excesses.
Liy thereof
1 to render
clona and
Saragossa, and icxivify the interior of Catalonia, of uhich from the eoanis ymi would
form u too favourable opinion ; these treasures, would tin y do less honour to die divi
nity uhoevcr it may be to whom they arc consecrated ; und would the guardians uf ihciti
be less lui|)py, or less revered ?
They are thirteen or fourteen in number. Their Ik rmitagei arc dispcrv d over ihf
top of the mountain, and occupy the space of near two i .igues, as far as to its greatest
height. 'I'he mcst elevatid, that of Saint Jeron»y, eonnnands a magnificent prospect
over immense plains. Y<ju thence discover the cour le of rivers, towns, some ijlands,
and an unbounded sea. 'I'l\c inhabitants of these solitary retreats arc doubtless little
sensible of these beauties daily seen; but settingaside that devotion s*) muel; calumniated,
the illusions of which are capable of embellishing a desert, they live here a sweet, trun-
'luil, and even agreeable life, without any appointed labour, witlvnit any innuietude, us
to their subsistence, without remorse, but not v.ithout atisterity. lu the midst of their
stagnant wealth, in the very lap of abimdmee, they remain ( ontent with a happy medio-
crity ; the hospitality which they exercise towards travellers being almt)si their only ex.
pence. Allow that philosophy proscribe, that policy reform, it must be cruelty itself that
could speak ill of them. I return to the road to Harcelona.
Beyond Villafranca, the read is tn'ced out, and even begim, but in 1793 it was so
much neglected, so inieven owing to pieces of rock, that 1 wished even a score of times
it had never been projt cted but on paper. The bridge was the only part of the road
that had been carefully attended to. To begin with one of them which is a good
quarter of a league from the tavern called El O-stal d'orda, you lind a small portion of
superb highway, after which you turn short on the right to be jolted on as bad a road
as any there is in Spain. I'Vom shock to shock, one almost falls down a narrow, very
steep, and stony road, which follows the side of a profoiuid valley. In order to avoid
this really formidable pass, a most bold design was projicted no less than to imitc the
two opposite mountains by a nort of bridge of three stories. It was obliged to be aban-
doned. But the very attempt was grand. A foot path-way along the valley, passes
under the arcades of this bridge, and enables the passenger to form an idea of this gi-
gantic plan.
Beyond this valley you find yourself again on a tolerable road, which leads to one of
the finest bridges in Europe. It is five himdred and forty paces long, and embraces the
whole of the wide river Lorregat. It takes its name from a village on its odier side
called Molinos del Key or Kcmolins. The country you pass over to arrive there, is
picturesque but wild. High mountains form almost the whole bomidary of the horizon,
and industry struggles with an arid soil on their enormous sides ; the plough having
furrowed every part of it \vhich is not inaccessible.
CHAPTER XV.
NEIOHBOVRIIOOD AND INTKIIIOH OF H AIIC ELONA. FOUIIIKHS OF MO.VUOY. DKTAII.S HKSI'KCI"
INO CATALONIA. COIlVtllA. DIOC KSK OF bOLOSS K. MINK OV lOIlDONA. I.KKIDA. COUKSEOF
THE SRUnF..
FROM Los Molinos del Rcy, the road is good for four leagues before you arrive at
Barcelona. Nothing can be more cheerful, more animated, or more rich than the
prospect as you approach this capital, in every respect so worthy of the curiosity of the
traveller. Its port, which however is neither spacious nor very good, greatly contri-
butes to its embellishment. Two small rivers E) Lobregat, and El Besos, which empty
themselves near the towji, throw up sand in such manner as to make it shallow in spite
VOL. V. 4 K
— c*
: 1
-.)
()13
jjOURGOAN.VE's TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
of every incaiis of prevention. It is formed by a sort of hedge placed Ijetween the
citadel of Montjoy, the town, and Barcelonetta, a small modern town built by the
marquis dc la Mina, governor of Catalonia, whose tomb ir in one of the churches.
It is in this quarter that the most remarkable objects in Barcelona are seen ; the fine
promenade in the manner of a terrace, which runs the v.'hole length of the port ; the
Lonja, a sievv building in which are united a school for drawing, one for pilotage, and
one of trade ; the palace of the captain-general, which, in spite of its defects, has a
very imposing appearance ; and above all the new custom-house, i\ magnificent edifice
which was scarcely finished in 1793.
Ever)' thing at Barcelona wore the appearance of a speedy war, and in the minds of
the common people there existed great animosity towards the French.
In no town of Spain reigns there more apparent activity, or more real industry, not-
withstanding the causes of idleness and depopulation which yet exist at Barcelona as
well as elsewhere. For here are eightj-two churches, twenty-seven convents of monks,
eighteen of nuns, and several congregations. According to the census of 1787 Bar-
celona contained one hundred and eleven thousand four hundred and ten persons. In
no part whatever has population so sensibly increased, if it be true, as is averred, that in
1715 Barcelona numbered no more than thirty-seven thousand souls, and that on the
disembarkation of Charles III, in 1759, it still possessed no more than fifty-three thou-
sand. What how ever may render credible this rapid increase, is the prodigious quantity
of buildings erected within these few } ears, not only within the town, but as well and more
particularly in its neighbourhood ; insomuch, that Barcelona for the number and con-
venience of its country houses "'s inferior to very few towns in France. Marseilles, which
resembles it in some respects, which may be likened to it, although in many instances
superior, yet cannot compare its territory with that of this town ; where at once you
meet with beautiful landscapes, a greatly varied tillage, the bustle of industry, and every
symptom of opulence. To the charms of such a neighbourhood be there superadded
the advantage of a fertile soil, and a climate which, without being torrid, causes all the
productions of hot countries to prosper ; the great concourse of foreigners met with ;
a numerous garrison : the m^nns of instruction furnished by several literary societies;
an anatomical theatre ; some public libraries ; a cabinet of natural historj', which
Tournefort highly prized, ynd eiirichc d with a precious collection of plants from the
Levant ; the cabinet of a p/ivate individual, for the variety and choice of the curiosities
of the three kingdoms which it contains, it might excite the envy of more than one
little sovereign ; fine walks, numerous and select societies ; the variety of occupations
in which commerce and industry are employed ; let these be superadded, and it must
be allowed, that there are few towns in Europe wherein a man can live more pleasantly,
or with more numerous resources, than at Barcelona. Bareelona, however, is yet not
^vhat it might become by a great deal, the cause of which may easily be divined.
The lovers of the fine arts will admire here three paintings by Mengs ; and those of
antiquities, six fluted columns of the Corinthian order, the remains of a superb edifice,
respecting the design of which the learned do not agree, the remains of an amphitheatre,
those of a bagnio, many trunks of statues, and, to conclude, a multitude of inscriptions
which continue to puzzle the learned.
Barcelona, in a military point of view also, is a very important city. It may be remem-
bered, what a long resistance it opposed in 1714 to marshal Berwick, and of how much
value Philip considered its subjection, without which he could not deem himself secure
upon the Spanish throne ; and that in the late war with France, the second division of
troops employed in which obtained such brilliunt successes on the side of Catalonia, our
BOURCOANNE S IRAVET.S X .V Sl'AI.V
iil'J
Ijetween the
built by the
le churches.
;en; the fine
the port ; the
pilotage, and
fccts, has a
ficcnt edifice
the minds of
ndustry, not-
Barcelona as
Its of monks,
3f 1787 Bar.
persons. In
erred, that in
i that on the
l^-three thou-
ious quantity
veil and more
ber and con-
ieilles, which
my instances
at once you
ry, and every
; superadded
causes all the
s met with ;
ry societies;
story, which
nts from the
he curiosities
ore than one
occupations
and it must
e pleasantly,
r, is yet not
ined.
and those of
lerb edifice,
mphitheatre,
inscri;jtions
r be remem-
fhow much
nself secure
division of
italonia, our
victorioub j^cneruls aspired to the capture of this place as a decisive event. Its principal
force consibts in a vast citadel which defends it towards the east, and Monijoy v/hicli
overlooks and protects it to\vards the west. Montjoy is a mountain of some height
on the summit of which is u large fortress capable of containing a numerous garrison.
Fortified with great care on the town side, it is exceeding steep towards the sea. Oi
an imposing aspect at first sight, it quickly appears to the tactician wl»o examines il,
too spacious, too much overloaded with works, more massive and expensive tiian useful,
and particularly too much elevated to be formidable to a besieging army occup} ing the
plain.
Barcelona principally owes its splendour and wealth to its industry, and the number of
its manufactories. The ! r^at remarkable are Indianas and stained linens, of which
there are one hundred and ^ifiy. Their manufactories of lace, blonds, and thread em-
ploy twelve thousand hands ; and an equal number is occupied in silk articles, such as
galoons, ribbons, and stuHs of different descriptions.
The population of Catalonia amounts to twelve hundred thousand souls. However
much favoured by nature, however much in general alive to industry, one should form
far too favourable an idea of them judging from a sight of their capital and the coast.
In the interior part of the kingdom arc many desert cantons, several of which it would
be difficult to draw from their state of barrenness; however, industry has shewn itself
wherever it could do so with advantage. Notwithstanding the tjuantity of wood which
has been felled since the reign of Ferdinand VI, for diflbrent objects of utili^, it still pos-
sesses a sufficient quantity lor firing, for the demand of manufactories, and even for ship-
building ; although it imports considerably from Russia, Holland, England, and Italy.
Cork-trees (alcornoques) particularly abound in their forests, so that it annually freights
as many as five-and-twenty vessels with cork for the north, and sends a number of corks
to Paris. I have been informed there is a cutter who furnishes four thousand per diem.
Catalonia contains, beside a number of walnut trees of much use in carpenter's and join-
er's work, animmen,' quantity of almond, small nuts, orange and fig-trees, the fruit of
which is exported in quantities to the north. The only wood of which it does not pro-
duce sufficient to correspond with the demand is oak for staves.
Notwithstanding the prosperity which Catalonia at present enjoys, it is yet not so
populous, and possibly less industrious than it was in the fifteenth century. At that
epoch, cloths manufactured at Barcelona were sent to Naples, Sicily, and even as far as
Alexandria. The modem Catalans, it must be allowed, are more anxious of doing a
great deal than of ''oing it well. The manner in which iheir articles are finished, and
their taste^ do not answer the quality of the primarj' ingredients they employ. The high
roads likewise in Catalonia are in general greatly neglected. It is far from reaping all the
advantage it might from its soil. What variety of marble does it not conceal ! How
many mines mif^ht there not be opened ! There is in particular several of coal, the
working of which, proposed at different periods, has constantly met with obstructions.
Among others, one has been discovered of great promise at Mentanola, in the diocese of
Vique.
Lerida is, next to Barcelona, the most important town in Catalonia. It is twenty-five
leagues from this capital. In the space between them you meet with towns and villages
at every hour, except on the four last leagues. The five first cross a country rich in the
gifts of nature and industry, and the succeeding four evince more than any other district
whatever, the enterprizing activity of the Catalans.
Farther on one meets with La Noya, a small but very capricious river, which is forded
a dozen times, which frequently damages the country, but which is constantly its chief
4 K i^
020
BOURCOANNE'S lUAVELS IN SPAIN.
i
i
I
!
i
source ol' benefit. It sets in motion numerous mills, and particularly many for paper,
with which the owners supply a j^reat purt of the consumption of Spain and the Indies.
This is ;i particular brunch ol industry v jch within these few years has made an aston-
ishing pnu^rcss. In 1777 Catalonia ntaincd no more than one hundred and twelve
paper-mills. In 1778 it had more than three hundred. The annual profit derived from
them is reckoned to amount to a million of piastres.
On the road from Barcelop. to Leridayou pass by the towns of Igualada and Corvera.
The intervening- countrv is not so fine, nor so uell cultivated. Corvera, built on an
enniinence in the midsi of a vast horizon, bclonifs to the diocese of Sonsona, a part of
which is mountainous, but the greatest part abounds in every description of grain and
vegetables.
Corvera, a town containing five thousand inhabitants, has an university much resort-
ed to, which wiis founded by Philip V, at the period of his suppression of those of Cata-
lonia ; for the resentment of the concjuoror, irritated by the long resistance he met with,
extended to every thini^f. Notwithstanding this, Catalonia, the theatre ot suppressions,
and innovations of even description, has deceived the calculations of revenge ; for, de-
prived of its privileges, and subject to particular taxes, it still remains a province the least
aggrieved, and the most. indusU'ious in Spain ; and the faithful Castilians have more than
one reason to envv the rebellious Catalans. Hence the Catalans and Castilians remain
to our days two distinct people ; rivals, and enemies, they nevertheless in the last war
with France united in their wishes and their efforts, the priests and the court having
succeeded in persuading them that bodi were fighting in a common cause. Individuals,
nations, whatever your habitual passions, it is the interest of the moment by which you
are guided ; just as in rhetorical discussions, the mob is ever on the side of the last
speaker.
The diocese of Solsona however suffers by its distance from the capital and the coasts ;
and more vigorous efforts are there made for the encouragement of industry ; the bishop
in particular has been very successful in his attempts at vivifying the neighbourhood of
his residence. Iron is manufactured there with advantage ; this, with works in silver
and gold, cotton, cloth, and lace, employ a great number of its inhabitants,.and tillage
is very nicely attended to, fallows being unknown. Vines in this quarter do not flourish
at the expence of grain, but bodi species of cultivation are united without injury one to
the other.
Cardona, a small town of the same diocese, has a small mine within its territory,
which art has rendered very prolific ; it is known to all naturalists, and is perhaps the
only one of its kind in Europe.*
Lerida is situated at the western extremity of Catalonia. Grain, hemp, olives, vines,
fruits, and vegetables of every description abound in its neighbourhood. SousC canals
of irrigation bespeak the active industry of its inhabitants, and increase the fertility of this
plain, formerly celebrated by Claudian.
You enter the plain by a fine bridge over the Segre, which bathes its eastern side.
It is placed at the foot of a hill, on which are the ruins of a castle formerly very strong.
The banks of the Segre, and the environs of Lerida, cannot be seen without a lively
interest by men versed in military lore, nor by those more numerous far, who are fond
of treading a ground rendered illustrious by the march of heroes. I mean less to allude
* For an elegant description of the mine of Cardona, see the Dictionaire d'Histoire Naturelle de
Bomarc, tome xiii. page 1 67, 1 69, of tite fourth edition.
UOUKGOANNE's travels in SPAIN.
021
for paper,
he Indies.
an aston-
nd twelve
rived from
d Corvera.
jilt on an
a part of
grain and
ch resort-
icofCata-
mct with,
iressions,
- ; for, de-
e the least
more than
ns remain
e last war
rt having
dividuals,
vhich you
f the last
le coasts j
he bishop
Jrhood of
3 in silver
nd tillage
»t flourish
iry one to
territory,
■haps the
'\ vines,
iC canals
ty of this
:m side.
' strong,
a lively
are fond
o allude
urcllo de
to the sieges and battles of \vhich this country was the theatre at the beginning of this
century, than to thatevtr-mtmorable campaign, in which perhaps more than in anj- other
Julius Caesar displayed the talents of a great captain while opposed to the lieutenants of
Pompey ; a campaign which furnished Guischard with matter for one of his most learned
and most interesting commentaries. In travelling from Balaguer to Mcquinenza one
should have his book in hand, in order to find in a military memoir all the instruction of
history combined with whatever can be most striking in romance.
The course of this river, whose caprices and overflowings opposed to Cajsar eighteen
centuries ago obstacles which required all his genius and constancy to surmount, con-
tinues to be still as it was then at all times beneficial to the country it waters, but fre-
quently a scourge. The town of Lerida especially is much exposed to its ravages ; to
preserve it from them, its last governor general Drouhot, a Fleming by birth, had a jetty
built, which contributes much to the embellishment of the town, and which may be
added to the list of useful works for which Spain is indebted to foreigners.
Before you arrive at Lerida, the Segre, which takes its source at the foot of the Py-
renees, has previously traversed the plain of Urgel, the most fruitful in grain of any in
Catalonia. But easy communications are peculiarly wanting to the western part of this
province. Its roads are so narrow and so bad, that its rich and numerous productions
can be transported no otherwise than on mules.
CHAPTER XVI.
ROAD FROM ItARCELONA TO IHE I'VHF.NF.ES.
I RETURN from my excursion to Lerida, and resume the road leading from Bar-
celona to the Pyrenees.
Beginning with this capital, industry and population are in a flourishing state the
whole length of the coast. The first specimen of this is met with at Badalona, no more
than a league from Barcelona. Four leagues beyond this, you pass through the pretty
town of Mataro, remarkable for its cleanliness and bustle. It contains no more than
nine thousand inhabitants ; but its manufactures of cottonacles, silks, and more especially
of lace, the excellent state of culture of its territory, its commerce, of which wine
forms the principal part, make it altogether one of the most important places upon the
coast.
The road from Barcelona to Mataro is very pleasant ; but nothing throughout all
Spain seemed to me comparable with the succeeding day's journey. A new road pa-
rallel to the sinuosities of the coast, ascending nd descending at intervals the tops of
hills, at periods somewhat steep, at others cut in the rock, passes through most charm-
ing towns, which, by the manner in which their simply ornamented houses are built, by
their neatness, and even the active but unnoisy bustle of their inhabitants, brought to
mind the most agreeable districts in Holland. Forget the wintry atmosphere of that
province ; give it the climate of a warm country delightfully temperate, and refreshed
by breezes from the sea ; substitute for the mournful and silent course of the narrow,
muddy canals of Batavia, the vast extent and agitation of its waters ; retain every thing
attracting it receives from industry, and you will have an idea of the country which ex-
tends from Barcelona to Malgrat.
Some of these towns, which form a striking contrast with the rest of Spain, deserve
to be mentioned. On leaving Mataro, you arrive next to Arens de Mar ; where begins
the diocese of Girone ; and vvhich has iis little dock-yard, and pilot's school ; Canet
^le Mar, a town most pleasantly situated, the inhabitants of which trade not only
tsasim
C22
«Ol/UGOANNli's IKAVfiLa IN SPAIN.
\
witii all Spain, but even with the West Indies, are also beneficially employed in the fa-
brication of silks ; San Pol, a modern town, which, under the fecunduiing protection ol
industr}-, is perceptibly increasing ; Calleia, one of the prettiest places on the coast
>vhtre there are likewise manufactories of cotton, silk, and lace ; Pineda, another town,
where it is common to stop to dine ; and, lastly, Malgrat, after passing through which
you leave this delightful road and the sea-coast, for a wild country. You next again
descend into a tolerably handsoine hollow, in the centre of which is the soliliTy tavern
called La Gunota, where, in 1793, 1 found the worst accommodation on the road.
The succeeding day I again entered a mountainous country, divided between woods
and heath. At length, the town of Girone is discovered on the back of hills, v;hereon
towards the east some redoubts are constructed, and which, sinking towards the west,
form a very picturesque amphitheatre. This chain of hills form a semicircle about
Girone. When )'et a league from the town, you would conceive it to be situated on
an eminence, but you go through and leave it without being sensible of an ascent. Its
cathedral, a line monument of Gothic architecture, is the only building on a high
situation.
Girone is unequally divided in two by the Ter, which you cross here over a bridge,
but which is almost always forduble. This town, famous in the modern wars of Spain,
exhibited in March 1793 no military preparations, which confirmed me in the idea,
that I have never foregone that the Spanish ministry had not, as was then pretended, a
long preconceived intention of breaking with the French republic. The regular force
of the garrison of Girone was very small. In some places you could scarcely distinguish
the traces of fortifications. The ditches and covered way, peaceably devoted to cul-
ture, bespoke the security of the inhabitants, and especially that of the governor Don
Ladislaus Habor, an active and plain old man, who, when I presented him my passport,
the forerunner of a rupture, appeared far from suspecting it so nigh. I felt no dispo-
sition to conceive this a paltry stratagem of war, from my not finding throughout a jour-
ney of more than one hundred leagues, any of those symptoms of activity which are
usual previous to a war, more than I had seen at Girone. WiUiout dispute, the court of
Spain had caused troops and ammunition to file off towards the frontiers of France, par-
ticularly to Navarre and Biscay ; but if it had had any other design than that which it
professed even up to the end of December 1792 ; namely, to protect herself in case of
invasion, with which she might reasonably esteem herself to be threatened, from our
nuistering of forces together, and from various speeches as well in the Convention, as in
different popular assemblies. If it had had any intention of invading the Republic,
would it not have collected a considerable force in Catalonia bv the time wlvn us I had
proof on my arrival at Perpignan there were no more than hvc tho\isand me«i in the
whole department of the eastern Pyrenees?
The diocese of Girone, is one of the best cultivated, and most flourishing districts
in Spain. The part which is near the sea produces great abundance of wine, lemons,
oranges and all descriptions of grain ; its mountainous parts are covered with vines,
corn, and olives ; in its woody parts many cork trees are found, the bark ol which forms
a considerable branch of commerce ; and few are the ([uartcrs w ithin the district but what
are remarkable for their produce and the industry of thtir inhabitants. The Lampour-
dan, which forms its northern part, which was occupied by our troops for a year, and in
which I sojourned two months in order to negotiate the peace, which shortly after was
signed at Basle, the Lampourdan is a vast plain, extremely fertile in every kind of grain
and fruit.
lOURCOANNl'S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
623
ill the fa-
)tection oi
the coast
her town,
gh which
cxt again
ry tavern
ad.
en woods
whereon
the west,
cle about
tuated on
:ent. Its
n a high
a bridge,
of Spain,
the idea,
ended, a
jlar force
stinguish
i to cul-
rnor Don
passport,
lo dispo.
utajour-
I'hich are
e court of
ince, par-
which it
n case of
from our
ion, as in
Icpubhc,
ttj» I had
Mk in the
districts
lemons,
th vines,
:h forms
Jut what
ampour-
r, and in
fter was
of grain
A small town belonging to the same diocese, situated near the source of the Fluvia,
whose namc(Olot) is scarce ly known, well deserves to be drawn from its obscurity for
the astonishing industry of its inhabitants ; every one there has employment of some
kind, and there is scarcely any work for which they are not calculated. It contains a
hundred stocking looms, with manufactories of cloth, nitteens, ribbons, &c. dye-houses,
paper-mills, manufactories of soap, cords, &c.
Half a league Lt vend Girone, is another town of considerable bustle. Two leagues
further, after having travelled over a pleasing country, and passing a streamlet near a
mill, and a little hamlet, you arrive at Madrina, the dirtiest and dearest inn upon the
whole road. It is, however, charmingly grouped, with respect to the hill that over-
looks it.
From Madrina to Figucras (or Figuieres) our last sleeping place in Spain, the
country is tolerably well covered, and with the exception of a few heaths is mostly
cultivated. Fields of wheat are seen, of lupin and flax, but olive trees and vines arc
in extraordinary abundance. Many small rivers are passed where during great part
of the year you find a gutter of water running in midst of a large bed of pebbles; in
this particular, almost all die riv< rs which run fmm the Pyrenees to the Mediterranean
resemble each other, as well in this part of Catalonia, as in the Roussillon. Of this
description is the Fluvia, which we fortled two great leagues before we arrived at Figuc-
ras. Its banks at that period were as trancjuil as in midst of the most profound peace.
Nothing announced that this small river, which, after the capture of Figueras and Rosa,
the bravery of our troops more than once excited them to pass, but which was pre-
vented by the wise combinations of our generals ; nothing, I say, announced that its
shores would soon bicome the theatre of the operations of the two armies. I belield
them again but with more interest when two years after I was dispatched to Figueras,
which, after our successes in the Lampourdan, became the head quarters of our army
of the Eastern Pyrenees.
When I was there in 1793, general Ricardos, who had been appointed comman-
dant-general of Catalonia, was momentarily expected. Figueras, which is an open
town, and which must not be confounded with its citadel, had then in garrison no
more than 1700 infantry, and 300 cavalry; nor did the whole neighbourhood contain
more than 5000 infantry. Such was the disposeable force of Spain in 1793 toefteet
the pretended im asion of Roussillon !
At the citadel, situated scarcely a quarter of a league from the town on an emi-
nence, workmen were employed on the fortifications. It already contained a consider-
abtf quantity of artillery, and all the ammunition and provit.Ions, destined, eighteen
months afterwards, to fall into the hands of the French republic.
At the commtncement of this war the Spaniards, by a concurrence of causes, from
the catalogue ot which I certainly do not mean to expunge their valour, made some pro-
gress on our terrilnry. They had penetrated by the col des Orts, west of Bellegarde,
as far as St. Laurent de Cerda, a town in the gorges of the Pyrenees, peopled with
smugglers, and persons but little attached to the French republic, and thence had in-
vaded the two districts of Prades and Ceret, obliged the castle of Bellegarde to capitu-
late, threatened to fall on Perpignan, and turninfr fchort towards the sea, y>ok possession
of Elm, Collioure, and the port of Vendres. Tbeae triumphs were of no long duration,
for the honour of the French arms wa* (uickly avenged by general Dugommier, who
drove the Spaniards from the Roussitivi;, retook Bellegarde, and penetrated into the
Lampourdan. General Ricardos, to whose aMavity the ephemeral successes of Spain
are in a measure to be attributed, died about this period, and was succeeded by the
624
bourcoanne's travels in stain.
count de l»i Union, a young and brave general, but of no experience. The French army
overcame every obstacle he opposed to their march. Eighty-three redoubts ! a sort of
Ibrtress constructed in a hurry, but some of which were apparently impenetrable, placed
on each side of the road for four leagues, which separates Figucras from Janquiere, the
last town in Catalonia. Eighty-three redoubts ! I say, were carried with a rapidity, an
intrepidity which cannot be too highly extolled. In a decisive battle, in which the
count de la Union perished, the Spanish army was put to the rout, and the wreck
thereof taking shelter in the impixgnablc citadii, carried terror and discouragement in
their train. General Pcrignon, who at that lime commanded our victorious army, ad-
vancing to wiihinhalf a league of the place, imperiously summoned the governor to sur-
rciulcr ; and two hours after the capituLition was signed, wiiliout either breach, assault,
without the trenches being opened, or any Avork begun. When I was in its neigh-
bourhood in 1783, 1 endeavoured in vain to penetrate through three hundred workmen,
who repaired thither every morning to put the linishiag hand to the work. They alone
were allowed to pass the g.Uc wliicli led to its interior, and 1 was only suffered to walk
round its glueis, and the covered way of its exterior works. Two years afterwards 1
was rather better served by circumstances, and under the auspices of conquest I exa-
mined this place at my ease, of which 1 had heard the Spaniards vaunt so much.
The fortress of Figucras was begun in the reign of Ferdinand VI. It was intended
to be a master-piceein the art of fortification, and certainly is one of prodigality in that
line. All military men who hiive seen it agree that no place in Europe is furtlished in
greater profusion with the different means of defence. The besiegers in particular
were enabled to convince themselves of this, for on their entrance they were untouched.
Notwithstanding their valour would make nothmg incredible, they themselves with dif-
ficulty conceived how it was possible in so short a time to reduce a place which had a
garrison of nine thousand men, whose walls external and internal were all of stone, more
than a fathom in thickness ; whose principal ditches were all deep, and more than a hun-
dred feet wide ; the approaches to which on the only side wh 'ix; trenches could be
opened were mined, whose principal'*^ cordon was not discernible from widiout ; where
every part wascasemated, ramparts, barracks, hospital, stables, cellars, and magazines.
Its means of subsistence were proportioned to its means of defence. Water is pre-
served there in four large cisterns, dug in the tour corners of the place d'armes, and
supplied by an aqueduct ; and there was store of provisions of every description in the
greatest abundance, barrels of flour, biscuit, cheese, salt cod, oil, wines, brandy, &c. &c.
Of the quantity of each let one single article suffice for a cri'.erion ; such an abundance
of bacon covered the immense long floors of the corridors of the casemates of Figucras,
that from a calculation made in my presence, valuing the pound at no piore than four
francs, the stock of it must have been worth 800,000 livres.
On examining this place as well within as without, the most ignorant mm would ask
himself how it could be so easily taken. Some attributed its ready surrender to the
terror with which the garrison was seized by an im])trious summons, following so closely
at the heels of a decisive battle. Others pretended that this garrison, so well provieled
with bacon, cheese, and brand} , were des.itute of Hints and matches. While again some
could no oilierways explain thisextraonliiiary success than by imputing it to corruption,
and affirmed that two large casks of m<jney were seen to be carri^sl to the commander,
as the price of his treason. Neither is it surprising if, through respect to the glory of
*The cordon, for whicli the tmnslutor, knowing of no EnciHsli word that corr^spr.iuls, has consp-
qucntly adopted tlic Fi-cnrh, means tiie summit of the parapet, which is rounded like a cord.
BOURGOANNE a Ti(A\£LS IN SPAIN.
C25
cnch army
! a sort of
ble, placed
quiere, the
apidity, an
which the
the wreck
igement in
army, ad-
nor to sur-
:h, assault,
its neigh-
workmen,
They alone
;d to walk
rcrwards I
jest I exa-
ch.
s intended
lity ill that
rnish'jd in
particular
mtouched.
s with dif-
hich had a
tone, more
hun a hun-
oould be
ut ; where
nugazines.
Iter is pre.
rmes, and
tion in the
y, &c. &c.
ibiindance
Figueras,
than four
vould ask
ler to the
so closely
I provided
gain some
jrriiption,
[nmander,
i glory of
has consp-
rd.
their nation, the Spaniards be most willing to give this interpretation to the matter, the
most absurd of any ; as if at the period of our greatest fin;»ncial distress we had monc\
to lavish on Figueras, without possessing any for the purpose of securing Luxembourg,
Maestricht, Ehrenbrcitstein, Mcntz," &:c. &c. all of them places of far greater impor
tancc than this pretended bulwark of Catalonia, the surrender of which did not occasion
that province to be invaded ; or as if Spanish commanders alone were corruptible. The
most likely reason to be attributed for its hasty surrender, nay even the best authenti-
cated is, that those who were to preside over the different operations of the defence ol'
the place were taken by surprise, were destitute of foresight and concord, and that for
the garrison under their command, it was not their courageous day. The old bye- word,
he was once upon a time a brave fellow, comes from Spain. Surely the Spaniards will
not take amiss that it be for once applied to themselves ; for what nation is there of whom
at one period or other the same may not have been said ?
The French army, after rendering itself master of Figueras, was spread about the
neighbourhood from Junquiere to the banks of La Fluvia.
But in order to maintain peaceable possession of the Lampourdan, and secure subsist-
ence by means of the sea, it was requisite it should have possession of the port, the for-
tress of Rosas, and the little fort de la Trinite, called by us le Bouton.
This conquest, less easy and less sudden than that of Figueras, was still recent when 1
paid a visit to this theatre of one of the brilliant exploits of the army of the Eastern Py-
renees. Rosas is four great leagues east of Figueras. In order to reach it you pass by
Villa Bcltran and Peralada, ancl travel over a very fine country almost wholly a plain.
Le Bouton is discerned at a distance of almojit three leagi'es. Situated on a slope of the
Pyrenees, at the part where they decline in the sea ; it appears at this distance a castle in
ruins. On approaching, you disco. %r on very even ground the fort of Rosas, whose
fortifications consist in a double range of walls, without either a ditch, covered way, or
glacis. It could have made but a very short resistance, had it not been for the assistance
it received from the Spanish squadron at anchor :n the vast Ixiy, on the shore of which
the fort, the village, and Bouton are situated, in a semicircular line along the bay. You
pass under the inner battery of the fort to get to the village, which is only a long row
of houses whitened over. Beyond the village one has to climb over rocks in order to
arrive at Bouton. This little fort has a double object, that of defending the entrance
of the bay, and protecting the little town of Rosas, which is distant from it somewhat
more than a quarter of a league. On its summit is a light-house for directing ships.
Notwithstanding its compass was extremely small, it possessed means of defence in its
three platforms, ranged one above the other, against which the French had long to eon-
tend. In no part possibly of all the different scenes of this war, so fertile in wondrous
events, in no part did the valour of our troops shine with greater lustre than at this fort
of Bouton. The artillery designed to batter it was raised by the main strength of man
up the declivity to the summit of the steep rocks which surround it ; a position to which
the most undaunted sportsman would hesitate to pursue the game that should take re-
fuge, hither did they raise, from such situations was heard the thunder of the French
artillery ; and should the traces of its passage imprinted on the rock be recognized by
posterity, it \\ ill require the testimony of history to satisfy it as to its cause.
The fort of Bouton was not taken before a considerable breach had been effected ;
nor did it even then capitulate ; for the garrison had time to escape by rope-ladders to
the beach, where the boats belonging to the squadron was waiting for them ; so that
upon the entry of the besiegers they found nothing but the dead. Our army could not
take possession of Rosas until after this capture.
-^».-»*
VOL. V.
4 L
020
UOUltr.OANNU'a TRAVELO in SPAIN.
This port Is never greatly frequented. It is however formed by an immense bay, In
which even ships of the line may moor ; but this bay is too spacious, and its entrance
far too wide, tonfTurd shelter lither against winds, or attacks from the sea side.
The country about it on the side towards the Pyrenees is very picturesque, and ap-
pcarcd to me to deserve a short excursion. In the first place then after leaving the fort,
I climbed '^ ' enormous mountains which separate the bay of Rosas from that which
is oppositi the north, and which you arrive at by sea after making a long round,
and doubh cape of Creus. After travelling for two leagues over a most fatiguing
road, I arrived at La Selva alta, a town buried in a basin in the middle of rocks. Haifa
league beyond you meet with Selva-baxa, a considerable town, placed in an amphitheatre
on the bay of Stives or Stlva. At both these places our troops were quartered. The
second has a little port, which has some trade. It is in this neighbourhood a sweetish
wine is made, of an agreeable flavour and colour, and which may be placed as a desert
wine on a level with Sherry and Frontignac. There is nothing but *' go(^ luck and bad
luck" for the produce of the earth as well as mankind. Before our war with Spain
this excellent wine of Selva, which has more than once chaced aw»y care from head-
quiirters, was but little known out of the Lampourdan ; but I trust the epicures of our
army of the Eastern Pyrenees will make it amends for the oblivion to which it seemed
to be condemned.
The whole country although of wild appearance, in spite of the presence of our troops,
bore the traces of as good tillage as the nature of the soil would allow.
In order to return from Selves to Figueras, you keep along the steep sides of the bay.
You afterwards descend into the charming basin wherein the town of Llansa is situated,
at uome distance from the little inlet of that name. As you travel through this hollow
the hills which surround it, covered with vines, have a charming appearance ; and after
attaining a height on which an old castle is situated, you perceive the town of Peraladas,
and at the extremity of the horizon the road which ascends by windings to the fort of
Figueras.
The view of the fine country of the Lampourdan, :he limits of which I had attained
after having travelled over its wildest but most picturecque division, awakened those re-
grets which the philanthropist ever experiences, on reflection that every where the finest
countries are most liable to the ravages of war, Flanders, the Palatinate, and Lombardy.
Still, on the other hand, a man must possess a love of glory and dominion equal to that
of Catharine II, who should carry this scourge into deserts and rocks, and amid the
frozen lakes of Finland. Let me, however, do the justice to our army of the Eastern
Pyrenees to say, that the inhabitants of the Lampourdan will not have had much to
lament from their length of stay there. It did no other than such damage as is insepa-
rable from military operations. In midst of our cantonments the fields were in full
cultivation. In the neighbourhood of Rosas the vines budded afresh about the large
holes which bore witness to the recent fall of bombs ; and on the hills in the neighbour-
hood of Figueras, if those be excepted which formed its glacis by the side of the high
road, the spacious olive-grounds were scarcely any where damaged. Our soldiers en-
camped beneath the shade of the trees, made use of none but the barren trunks for their
necessities. Philosophy reconciles itself in measure to this terrible and essentially de-
structive art, where discipline prevents excess.
But let me be candid. In those fits of rage the consequence of resistance to troops
accustomed to conquer, in the intoxication of victory disorders were committed in Cata-
lonia, as well as in Biscay, at which humanity shudders ; and other excesses were tole-
rated which policy should have prevented. At Euguy, at Orbaiceta, towards French
noUROOANNE 3 TIIAVEI.S IN .WAIN.
62:
and np.
the fort,
at which
round,
atigiiing
Haifa
utheatrc
d. The
sweetish
a desert
and bad
th Spain
•m head-
s of our
seemed
troops,
Navarre, at St. Laurent dc la Muga, some kagiics north-west of Frgucras, Spain po:i.
scssed foutuleries of great vahie for their arsenals. Oiirarniits treated xlwnx as if they
were a Portsmouth or a Plymouth, not leaving one stone upon another.
In no part, however, of the peninsula was the religion of ihe country or its ministtTh
given up to perseeution. The pastors indeed, and the greater part of their fiock, took
to flight at our approach. .\s has heen the ca-^e in all wars wlierc religion h is been one
of its causes, ns well as in all those wherein necessity has no law, the I'Vench army
" Of many a church a KUblc iiuidc."
Yet all the churches were left standing after our invasion, yet were not the objects
of the veneration of the faithful cither overthrown or m itilated ; and during tlic time out
head-quarters were at Figueras, I saw crosses remaining erect in some of tlic principal
streets, even in tlie absence of their adorers.
These precautions, however, were not of sufficient weight to bring over the Catalans
to our cause. Fanaticism seemed to have a greater infiuence on them than the love of
liberty. We reckoned too much upon the eft'ect of this sentiment. Among them it is
principally made up of an aversion to the yoke of the Castilians, and a vugue tendency
towards an independent government. But for the extreme vigilance of the court, wc
certainly could have maintained a gofid understanding at Barcelona. It is h\ great
cities that discontent is ever most readily excited, and the discontented most easily
brought to the same mode of thinking. In these, greater bodies of people collected to
gether, and with more inflammable minds, materially favour the propagation of extraor
dinary ideas. In these, the same as with a combustible matter, a spark is sufficient to
occasion a conflagration. But the court jinrdvcd the danger at a distance; and the
priests, much more faithful to their owninU/tal th)i/i fliat '»f the court, easily contrived
to counteract the plots of our missionaries. These, ill d)is epoch, discovered suffi' i«'tit
causes of complaint against the government, utid found at secret nuctings a mimber of
persons ready to give ear to their revoliitJoiiHfi hisinnullons. Had our successes carried
us to the gates of Barcelona, they mighl /i/i - b- - >> iitnutH with vexatious consequen-
cestothe king of Spain. jf'(i,is(b|y it might h./ ' (an easy to effect the independence
of the Catalan republic, and aalisc ^ (U]u ;.i>n> ui /wffP^*'^ year:) •, U) attempting which we
should have found a iiiiniluT of well-wisfje/'il,- ' '
At the same time, a succession! i/f i/jf jnfh'S had |)ff/|ij.(i( <. ' 'tir west to the gates of
Bilboa, and in the south to the banks oj ijn I (» U . i/.i mg this river, the rocks
of Pancorvo were the only obst.^cles wjiicn irilni . d by a little art, had to oppose
to the march of our triumphant arinic " tl <oC,astiles. Already the inliabitanfs
of these two provinces which was the iiii)|< .1 to us, were infected with panic, and
emigrating in the utmost haste and confusion. Ijiil our generals at these two opposite:
points were not only brave, ijiey possessed jiriuliiice as well as courage. They were
sensible, and our government was ui the same opinion, that we should have fj;;uned
nothing by devastating these Sjianish provinces in one (juarter ; or by weakening and
subjecting apower tothe horrorsnfa civil war, with whom, after a year of hostility, we
felt the necessity of a reconciliunon in another. However, even more splendid victo-
ries would not have accelerated this re-union in a fuller degree than the arrogance of
the English. Thus did our real enemies advance our interests still more than our suc-
cessful arms ; neither is this one uj the smallest favours of fortune during the infancy oi'
the French republic.
4 L 2
028
ittOUlK.OANNu'ii IRAVELS IN bPAIM.
Tlic Catalans and Castilians uniti d in their attcction for n rclipjion which was repre-
sented to them as interested in the IVeneh revolution, against whieh luiropc had eom-
bined, nnited as well in their attachment to a monarch known to them only by his titles
to their esteem, and to whoni individually they never imputed the disorders of which they
conceived they had a ri^ht to com|>lain : the Catalans and Castilians, I sny, suspended
their animosities to make a common cause against the common enemy. But shortly
afterwards, l)cing satisfied of their inability to cope with us, as they joined their cftbrts in
war, so did they unite in their wishes for peace, as well as in their resentment against
the real enemy which had caused them to espouse his hatred to us ; and we had the
pleasure of rellecting that wc had not made them expiate the transitory error of their
government by any deep or lasting wounds on their prosperity. What would have been
our regret if, on reconciliation taking place, we had left Spam a prey to the horrors of
civil war, in dread of insurrection, and under necessity of using vengeance ; if we had
thus rendered inij)ossiblc any sincere alliance; or at least if this power, obliged to divide
its attention audits means between subjects it might have to restrain, and allies it might
have to assist, should for a long time have been able to spare us nothing but barren
wishes and rc|)roachts.
But it is time to leave Catalonia, and put an end to my long career.
■y
luliuni! Itultuin !
From Figueras you perceive the Pyrenees very distinctly. But what do I say ? You
are at their feet, surrounded by a prolongation of their immense chain, for these hills are
a ramification of the Pyrenees ; some of them, although distandy, towering above the
eminence on which Figueras is situated, and making a long circuit round this for'<'esS|
sink into the sea at Cape Palamos.
The Lampourdan, thus enclosed, is watered particularly on the north-west to south*
east by a great number of small rivers and rivulets. Such are the Lobregiit which flows
from the Pyrenees, and passes very nigh La Junquierc ; La Muga, on the banks of which
was the foundery which we destroyed; El Manol, along which were our principal cantoi^
mcnts, that is to say Sistella, where was the extremity of our principal line. Avinonet,
Villafan, and Castillon ; L'Alga on the sides of which were some others ; La Fluvia,
the boundary of our conquests, a river which is crossed over the bridges Besalu, and Bas-
cara, notwithstanding it be mostly fordable, and which after running very nearly to the
sea at the village of San Pere Pescador, afterwards winds about ) o empty itself two short
leagues farther towards the south, at the extremity of the bay of Rosas ; and lastly the
Ter, which falls into the sea, eight or ten leagues below Girone opposite to the small
islands des Medes.
These rivers and rivulets, which for almost the whole year are fordable, are swollen
in the spring by the thawing of the snows, and the rains which accompany the thaw. In
April 1795 1 was witness to one of these periodical floods. After three days of hard rain,
all the small rivers between the Fluvia and Figueras, and even the Fluvia itself» became
impassable, and the communication of the infantry between head-quarters and some of
our cantonments was nearly interrupted. Such events arc common in a great part of
Spain, and especially in Catalonia ; and during the famous campaign which we have pre-
viously noticed, one of these sudden inundations of the Segu, the Cenna, and other con-
siderable rivers, opposed obstacles to the operations of Csesar, which it required all his
genius to surmount.
The road from Figueras to Junquiere was pleasant to travel over, even before it had
been strewed with monuments of French bravery. You at first follow the course of the
fOVRCOANVE*8 TRAVELS I^7 SPAIN.
&29
vas rcprc-
hatl com-
his titles
liichthiy
m.speiulcd
ut shortly
■ efforts in
lit against
c hud the
r of their
lavc been
orrors of
r \vc had
to divide
s it might
It barren
y? You
hills are
ibovc the
for '•f'ss,
to south*
ich flows
of which
1 cantoi).
Lvinonct,
1 Fluvia,
md Bas-
ly to the
wo short
astly the
lie small
swollen
aw. In
ard rain,
became
some of
part of
ave pre-
fer con-
t all his
2 it had
e of the
chain of hills (for the mostp;irt productive) which lie in thenei^hbomlKJodor Figiicras.
As soon as the little villiigcofPont den MolinoN i-^piciscd, yon iKgin to see the continued
file of cminenees on ivhieh the Spaniards constructed those redoubts, which would lor
along time have stoppid an armv of less intrepidity than ours. Sonic of them are on
the banks, but on the opposite side of the Lobregut, which flows from the foot of the
mountains of Hellegarde, ;ind which in twice crossed over handsome bridges. Shortl)
after leaving all t!>cae redoubts behind, and clearing a hill, the mountains appear before
you, on one of which is Bcllcgarde; and at the foot of them the modest town of .lunquierc,
which looks as if liable to be annihilated in an instant by the lire from that threatening
fortress.
La Junquiere, situated at the entrance of .t valley, which enlarges by d( grees towards
Catalonia, possesses no other resources than tillage and the cork-trees which cover the
adjoining mountains. This town is perfectly open on that part xvhich leads from Spain
to France. In 1793 I found here no more than a detachment of two hundred men. Ir\
consequence, its inhabitants, notwithstanding they professed the most lively attachment
to the government of their king, biuerly comp'ained of thejr state of destitution, in such
St formidable ncighliourhood as that of Belkgarde.
This fortress, however, has not near so imposing an appearance from this spot as from
diflerent others upon the road, which, by many windings through the rocks, comes from
the other side of the Pyrenees. This lofty ruler of the neighbouring vales is beheld with
pleasure mixed with awe, and lost sight of again at least ten times as you trace the fa-
tiguing maze.
Itjsfull half a kaguc from La Junquiere to the spot on which one is directly below
Bellegarde ; and along the whole distance the ascent is scarcely perceptible. The first
object you meet ith upon the road is a ..mall lonely house, near which in 1793 two
small columns yei mained, hich marked the limits of France and Spain. The one
bore the arms of his atholic majesty, the othrr that of the French republic and its em-
blems, fresh engraved. In 1795 I found thci-.^ limits destroyed by victory. The co-
lumns were broken, and the road strewed with the pieces. One would have imagined
Catalonia irrevocably joined to the French republic.
A little beyond ihere is a small village r lied Perthus, whereat one of the roads begins
which leads to Bellegarde. Here during ,)cace is the office for examining the passports
of travellers. Here k ' 1793, in the month ul' March, did I meet with groups of our brave
volunteers, who frequently came down from the fortress to learn the news of the day,
and especially to inquire if the signal for war with Spain v/ould shortly be given ; my
return to France appeared to calm thtir impatience. It is from this town that the Col de
Perth . 'akesits name, which leads from the Junquiere to Boulou, by windings which
ohk is led o think are endless.
A\fi)r 18 Perthus the road is excellent, but from the spot when >ur territory begins
the rcvui «'. 1793 was exceedingly neglected. In 1795 it was in tolei Me repair. From
Junquiere to Boulou it winds among the gloom of the lofty Pyrenec h, and occasionally
presents views which arc highly picturesque. In tiiis country, which '>'^.e cannot travel
through without pleasure mixed with apprehension, nature is altemaiei cheerful, ma-
jestic, and terrible. As is the case in most mountainous countries, she t. is displayed a
great variety of positions, and appears to delight in uniting opposite climate:^. At times
you leave the plains of Catalonia or Rousbillon with nothing but serenity thro ^hout the
whole horizon ; and shortly after you penetrate the varied abode of tempests. I myself
experienced this during the month ol March 1795, in one of my excursions frorr Per-
pignan to Figueras. On leaving the Roussillon, ihe weather was perfecMy mild , but
630
ROl/RCOAMNE*! TRAVILI IK IPAIN.
when I uttaiiu-d the summit of the l*yrcncf», I was ovcrtakni by u violent Htorm. I
trcmblt'd for some time by the light of continual electric flashes; and upon my urnv.it
in the Lumpourdan I foimd the earUi covered with snow, which hud t'allen while 1 was
passing tiie mountains. How trifling does man appeur with all his srlumcbby the side
of these grand accidents of nature ! How paltry the most formidable armies compared
with these ribs of the world ! How small do they appear aniid dct |) and extensive vales'.
What is the noise of terrestrial artilleiy to that of thunder a hundred times reverberated
from their different sinuosities 1 Generations of heroes pass along and arc no more ; but
the enormous muss of the Canigou, perpetually clothed with frost, remains still the same,
us durable as the world.
Frtim Perthus it i« somctlung more than a great league to Boulou. which is seen m
the middle of a hollow surrounded by an amj)hiiheatre of mountains, some of which arc
covend with snow e\en in the spring. .Among them Canigou rises on the left and
nierccs above the cloiuls. This is one of the most distinguishable points of the Pyrenees.
In vain do you leave it behind, distance scarcely seems to diminish its mass ; and on
naching IVrpignan you might still think yourself at its foot.
Before you ascend towards the village of Boidou, which is the first post town in
France, you arrive at the banks of the Tech, a small river which has its source in the
Pyrenees, washes Pratz deMollo, and the fortdes Bains, runs close to the little town of
Cerct, and empties itself into the sea above Collioure. So late as 1793 you were obliged
to ford it with nuich inconvenience, k was a disgusting sight to behold men with no
other clothing Uian a shirt plunge into the water up to the waist, and push the carriages
of travellers by main strength before them to the opposite side. War which laid waste
its borders, has however caused a little wooden bridge to be built, which after facilitating
for two years the passage of the armies and their tram, serves now for communication of
a more peaceable description.
I finish with Boulou, which is only the distance of a musket shot from the Tech. I
shall now take a farewell prospect of the fine country which I have endeavoured to dc-
scribe, in order to present my reader with » recapitulation of my observations, my con-
jectures, and wishes.
RECAPITULATION.
I think I have proved that neither Spain nor Spaniards arc deserving of the disdain
with which they are treated by ignorance. On the contrary what are they in want of
that is desirable ? Does not Spain possess all the elements of prosperity ? What a de-
lightful climate ! What numerous productions which industry more enlightened and
better directed might easily bring to jierfection ; wines, fruit, wool, silk, oil, horses, &c.
What riches of every description contained in the bowels of its soil ! Of what would
not its inhabitants be capable if the government did but second the exuberance of
nature !
But a fatal instinct seems to incline it to oppose its beneficence. Continually do we
meet with wrong measures perpetuated by custom and obstinacy ; or where new ones
are proposed by genius, when resolution begins them, envy and prejudice are ever on
the watch to stay them in their career. In no country possibly have calumny and in-
trigue exerted themselves with greater success to the injury of merit and talent. Let us
endeavour to enumerate the distinguished characters wnich in our time have been con-
demned, some to flagrant disgrace, and others to a state of nullity, *
u stonu. I
u my urriviit
nliilc 1 was
i* by ihc side
cs compared
:n»ivc vales!
reverberated
o more ; but
till the same,
:h is seen i»
of which arc
the Ictlt and
Ik" I*yrcnccs.
uss i and on
wst town in
ource in the
ittlc town of
verc obliged
nen with no
the carriages
h laid waste
r facilitating
unication of
he Tech. I
)ured to de-
ns, my con-
the disdain
r in want q£
What a de-
rhtened and
horses, &c.
what would
uberance of
lually do we
re new ones
are ever oil
my and in-
jit. Let us
e been con-
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B017RCOANN£*8 TRAVSLS IN SfAlH.
631
Shall we mention Maritz and Gautier,^ employed one in re-establishing the artillery,
^e other in ship- building, escaping from their persecutors only by a miracle.
Olavidisf snatched from his flourishing colony, to be immured in the dungeons of
the inquisition.
A marquis d'lranda.f whose vast knowledge in affairs relative to administration, and
especially in what regards finance, have been constantly dreaded these thirty years back,
yet are scarcely ever consulted.
A count de Canr.pomanes, who at the end of his long career as a learned man and
a magistrate, is left to the enjoyment of that, of which he could not be deprived, a well
earned reputation.
A count d'Arandu,^ paying for the energy of his character, and the wisdom of his
councils, by being twice in disgrace.
A Cabarrus, II whose talents and services are remunerated by four years imprison-
ment.
A Thomas M unoz, whose success in the immortal undertaking at Cadiz, rather ex-
cited envy than applause.
A Mazarreddo, less known, less esteemed in his own country than by two neighbour-
ing nations who do justice to his eminent characters.
An Augustin Betancourt,ir one of the most skilful machinists in Europe, according
to the learned in England, and France, wh(f indeed is neither neglected nor forgotten ;
but for whom no employment could be found in Spain, where notwithstanding all ma-
chinery employed in arts and trades is very imperfect, and who is therefore sent to con-
stnict roads aind canals in Cuba.
A Malaspina, and a father Gil, imprisoned at the instant they are about to publish a
new voyage round the world.
A Francisco Saavedra, who, after evidencing in the Spanish colonies an unusual ap-
titude for government languishes almost unknown in one of those honourable places
reserved as a reward for the long services of mediocrity, or as a quietus for talent, the
exercise of which is not desired.**
• Both of them arc dead ; the one twenty years ago, the other in 1 800 : but the first left children in
the Spanish service who were to maintain their father's name.
tHe is returned to his country, and lives peaceably in a small town of Andalusia, with a pension of
90 thousand rials. His return to. Spain was preceded by a religious work entitled el cvangclio in tri-
umfo, composed dui-ing the latter part of his retirement in France, which has met so great a demand
both in Spain and in the Indies that it has run through four editions.
f He died in 1801 at a very advanced age. He obtained towards the end of his useful life the vaia
honour of councillor of state.
§ He died exiled at his estate in Arragon.
II After regaining some degree of credit, as we before noticed, he retired to private life four years ago.
At first he took up his residence near Torrelaguna, fourteen leagues from Madrid, where he amused
himself with agriculture. Lately he has been travelling about anew ; and not long ago was at Paris.
H His expedition to Cuba was prevented by various circumstances. On his return to Madrid, he
fixed the attention of government by his calculations. He was employed in establishing telegraphs,
an object in which he was instructed by Mr. Brequet during his last stay at Paris. He has begun one
which communicates between Bueu Rctiro and Aranjuez, and is to be continued to Cadiz. At pre-
sent he is one of the directors general of the post office, and entrusted particularly with the department
of highways and bridges. In this capacity, he has caused one hundred and forty-one bridges to be
constructed or repaired recently on the two roads from Madrid to Barcelona, the one by Valeutia, the
other by Saragossa to facilitate the expedition, which the king and queen ai'e about to make to Barce-
lona in the month of September 1 80S.
** He was in 1798 at the head of foreign affairs : but shortly after provisionally succeeded by Mr.
d'Urquijo, and definitively by the present minister Ccvallos. From the illness which was the cause
of his being displaced he was obliged to remain a year at the Escurial : he was afterwards permitted
to retire to Puerto Real near Cadiz, where he at present resides.
I.I
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63-2
BOURCOANNE^S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
A Ramon Pignatelli,* a Gaspard lovellanos.f citizens full of learning and patriotism,
confined to obscurity, the one in Arragon, the other in the Asturias, and who on the
narrow theatre where they are placed by circumstances, render service to their country,
and meet their only reward in the esteem of their fellow citizens.
And so many other learned men, artists, men of talents in every known departuicnt,
who are appreciated, yet suffered to languish inactive, and almost in want 4 while at
the same time pensions and places are found for loobies and intriguing characters.
Funds are wanting for useful undertakings, while sufficient yet are found to supply out
a pomp which adds no real splendour to the throne, but which is capable of furnishing
dangerous matter for discontent to work upon.
And yet, spite of the incumbrances which clog this nation, spite of that injustice
which is so discouraging, though prejudice calumniate it still, how much has it not
already effected towards withdrawing itself from the debasing inertness to which it was
condemned r.t the close of the last century ?
If inclined to judge of Spaniards with less severity, compare the reign of Charles II,
with that of Charles IV, see \\hat in the one period was the state of manufactures,
commerce, the navy, and learning of every description, and what in the other.
And how much more striking would this difference have been, but for her frequent
and useless wars, which have accumulated hindrances to that course of prosperity which
it has been tracing for almost a century past ; and but for the opposition arising out of
momentary circumstances to plans, which, in order to insure success, should be perma-
ncnt.
How lamentable to behold a nation, apparently grave and reasonable, the slave of
the paltry passions of those around the throne, and that too in a greater degree than
any other, than even our own nation. Did the chancellor Bacon calumniate the one,
and flatter the other, where three centuries ago, he said ; " the Spaniards appear t«
be wiser than they are. The French are more so than they seem."
In fact, how much have the first been the victim of caprice. If we look to the
period alone which has succeeded the extinction of the Austrian dynasty ; what was
gained by the two wars of Philip V, unless the barren honour of seeing his posterity
occupy two little sovereignties in Italy ? Ferdinand VI, of more pacific disposition,
sanctioned with his name some brilliant attempts, but more fond of money than glory,
he accumulates wealth, and allows several branches of administration to fall to decay.
As Frenchmen we may reprove his partiality towards the court of London. He de-
serves rather more than pardon judged by a Spaniard, since it retarded the period of
Spain taking part in the disasters of the war of 1756. Charles III, shews himself more
generous in appearance ; but it is on account of his being a Bourbon, and personally
an enemy to England, that he joins our quarrel. This devotion to our cause costs
Spain a part of her navy and Florida. Spam is indemnified for the loss of this by the
cession on our part of Louisiana. But what did the Spanish nation gain bv this ? What
* He died at Sarugossu, to the last intent on the works of the canal of Arragon, without ever obtain-
ing any other rccompence than a cool testimonial of cbtcem. This however was sufficient for one of
his bold and independent spirit.
t Enough has been said of him in course of the work. Turned out of administration shortly after
his introduction, he was at first banished to the Asturias. At present he is confined in a convent of
Carmelites at Majorca.
I In this instance, however, we must do justice to the Spanish goverament, and allow that latterly,
in many examples it has done justice to merit, even where distiv^guished by public opinion alone: that
it has brought into action, several estimable subjects who deserve and have justified the confidence
with which they have been entrusted ; and if some faults, perhaps frivolous in themselves, or but badly
proved, have at intervals been punished with signal disgrace, yet have no services been left without
reward.
BOURCOANNE's travels in Sl'AI.V.
633
)atriotism,
Iio on the
r country,
rpartiiiCnt,
while at
characters,
lupply out
furnishing
: injustice
has it not
lich it was
Charles II,
lufactures,
frequent
rity which
ing out of
be permao
le slave of
egree than
e the one,
appear t«
tok to the
what was
( posterity
isposition,
han glory,
to decay.
He de-
period of
nself more
personally
luse costs
his by the
is? What
ever obtain-
It for one of
ihortly after
\ convent of
hat latterly,
1 alone: that
confidence
or but badly
left without
l)Ut colonists which its government estranges by the exercise of a horrid tyranny, and
afterwards seeks to endear by sacrifices ? Seven years afterwards a qtiarrel on a point
of honour threatens a rupture with England.* Fresh ruinous eftbrts to obtain satis-
faction ; fresh distraction of funds destined for useful undertakings. Our intervention dis.
pcrses this storm ; but eight years scarcely elapse, before Spain suftlrs herself in opposition
to her interest to be dragged into the American war. Minorca and Florida recovered were
the fruits of this war, impolitic at any rate, if not unjust ; but the completion of the
ufinished canals of Castile and Arragon, so long in hand, would have been of much
greater benefit to the nation, and would have been more cheaply purchased. Scarcely
had she enjoyed the blessings of peace for seven years entire, before she was disposed on
account of some dispute respecting furs from the extremity of America, to resume anew
the cruel diversion of war, and put a stop to the most beneficial plans. But projects
still more insensate, solicit and obtain a preference. A vertigo which seized upon all
the cabinets of Europe fixed its attention upon the French revolution. The court of
Madrid placed itself at the head of those powers who conspired its overthrow. Of a
sudden, it changes both its ministry and its plan. It seems disposed to remain a passive
spectator of our hurricanes, and to keep in a defensive attitude alone, when an event,
more aflecting to Spain than any other monarchy, causes her to join, although contrary
to her interest, in the general resentment. This error, which would stand acquitted
before a tribunal of sovereigns, is however but of momentary duration. The experience
of eight-and-twenty months, is found sufficient. It sees the return of peace after making
efforts, and meeting with disasters which render alike necessary repose and economy.
You conceive it about to become wholly occupied with the payment of its debts, the
amelioration of its finatir^s, the construction of roads, canals, &c. But no, it is more
gratifying to her pride, to attempt to chastise the arrogance of her late momentary
allies. Granted that its resentment were just. As a Frenchman, I can but ' ^*
the part it took, and wish it be justified by snccess.f But this war, whatever
success, will retard its advances to prosperity ; but if it should turn out
Spain has so many possessions to lose, so much lost ground to regain ! Pc
above all others a paramount duty, if it can be preserved with safety, anc
honour ; notwithstanding which, it has in less than a century been e:
to the hazard of war, and for what, unless to gratify the quarrelsome
cabinet, and the paltry passions of those by whom it is governed.
It is not by such conduct that a power, formerly of the first rank,
regenerate or resume its ancient state. Every century in a monar
duce at least two weak sovereigns, some ambitious queens, such
and some restless ministers, such as Alberoni, and Florida Blanca.^
more than one occurrence will take place of equal importance with tlh>^ai^^jflE^f the
Falkland Islands, and Nootka Sound, An empire, the fate of which clcpends on
similar rulers, may make a noise in the gazzettes of the day, it can but excite the regret
of posterity. An infant state may gam strength from being exposed to storms ; arrived
• The question respecting which this quarrel originated was, whether or not Spain had fair prcten-
sions to dominion over the whole of the north-west coast of America. It disputed a claim on the part
of England to form establislmi:vii!>at Nootka Sound, between the 49<' and 50*> of northern latitude. It
was decided by a composition, by which the English were allowed to establish themselves between
Cape Mendacino in the 40" of latitude and Nootka Sound.
t This wish has not been attended' with the desired completion. In the war now terminated, the
Spaniards have certainly displayed much bravery and talent. It has given them new claims to our
esteem and gratitude, but has been of no advantage.
<
}:
n
<
VOL. V.
4 M
%,.
„V ^';mv1.
634
UOURGOANKE's travels in SPAIN.
;it maturity, and in a healthy condition, it may be able to withstand them ; they arc in-
clemencies dangerous to the convalescent. -
Of this Spain exhibits a proof. Its inhabitants are endowed with a happy and fruit-
ful imagination, and possess great aptitude for the arts ; they have founded establish-
ments of almost every description ; streams of wealth run at their feet beneath a trans-
parent surface. Good sense is met with among them, even in the most obscure classes ;
and of late years intelligence, even in the highest ranks ; but with so much versatility,
so many plans conceived by one passion, and frustrated by another ; can we wonder at
it£i stationary position ? These, much too frequent, repetitions of useless war, and peace
rather of a shewy than permanent nature, these short intervals of wisdom succeeded
by long fits of extravagance, these render the work of her regeneration as arduous as
Penelope's web.
In order to consummate the plans for her posterity already begun, more steadiness
is requisite, a firmer resolution, supported by greater activity, with less attachment to
distant enterprizes. It i& fit that the ministry should direct its attention rather to the
foundation of schools at home, than to the Philippine company i rather to the vivifica-
tion of Castile, than the island of Trinidad.*
The present appears to be the most favourable epoch Spain has experienced for a
long time. With a minister of unresisted sway, in the flower of his age, who seems to
be seriously intent on the public weal ; a monarch whose purity of life and robust con-
stitution forebode a long reign ; fine plans sketched out, and genius for the concep-
tion of others ; hai;ds which require nothing but practice and encouragement to render
them expert; a people haughty it is true, but unless insulted, tractable and affec-
tionate ; a people the government of which is organized in such manner, its temporal
and spiritual agents so distributed, and its population so much dispersed, that twenty
methods exist of watching over and restraining the disaffected, while they possess not a
single rallying point to make them formidable, and arc themselves of a temper to be
easily appeased by a shew of kindness, the most certain of all means of banishing dis>
content. With these, what a fund of means for doing good, with all the confidence
inspired by undisputed authority, with all the deliberation of wisdom 1
As owners, ruling every thing with thought,
Fearless of being displaced, and hurrying nought.
And for triumphing over obstacles, v/hich men and circumstances occasionally oppose
to the most useful undertakings ! vr''
To avail itself of these favourable circumstances, let Spain dismiss that covetous am-
bition which mistakes glory for prospe.-ity ; and which, if I may adopt an adage in the
modem law of nations, fancies limits fixed to states by natute; as if any usurpation by
such a grant might not be made legitimate.
Let it learn from its own experience, that power is not the consequence of large pos-
sessions, when, as is its case, a vast territory at home, sufficiently capable of every species
of improvement and prosperity, is continually invoking additional culture, industry and
population.
To give an example, what might be expected to be the result of the conquests of
Portugal to Spain, a project to which the present government is supposed surely without
any reason, to be strongly attached? Can it be blind to the existence of those prejudices in
the two nations, which an union must tend to encrease ? Hopeless of ever endearing
* Ceded to the English by the peace of Amiens. ; " '. '.i
are in.
BOITRCOANNK'S TRAVELS IN SPAIN.
635
to itself the conquered country, it would be ol)Iijrc;d to watch' over and restrain its cmo-
tionsby extraordinary measures; which would divide the attention of its government,
increase its expcnces, and expose it continually to storms. An invasion of this descrip-
tion, which no spurious pretext can justify, wliieh would be a source of and plea for
insurrection, would render Spain obnoxious in the eyes of all impartial Europe : it
would serve as a warning to a great j^urt of it, to combine against two powers, the re-
newal of whose alliance should be the signal for the most ambitious underftikings ; it
would awaken in all its force, the sworn hatred against the two principal branches of the
house of Bourbon would shortly create them new enemies, and disturb the repose of
years, of which both countries have need for their mutual regeneration.
Yet granted the incorporation should be peaceably effected, consolidated without in-
ternal tumult or external wars, in such case the danger would certainly be less imminent
to Spain, but not less formidable. Her European states remain thus limited by pretend.
ed natural boimdaries by the Pyrenees, the oceaii and the Mediterranean. Irrevocably
the ally of France, which she appears to view as her permanent interest, she has no in-
vasion by land to apprehend, and is secure in her distance from the maritime states, from
any disembarkation on her shores. In this position she may give herself up to the arts
of peace. These are indisputably all that are requisite for the happiness of individuals,
and prosperity of empires, but this art of war, however fatal, is likewise necessary. It
consolidates power, without which prosperity becomes precarious, and is lost in the
quiet of a peace of long duration. When surrounded Ijy allies alone, when exempt for
a long time from all alarm of war, a state becomes effeminate, and an easy prey to an
usurper, or a conqueror ; or should it escape these dangers, it sinks beneath the burthen
tven of its own prosperity.
Let not those, therefore, who wish to assure a durable prosperity to Spain, seek it in
this rounding of territory, which is gratifying to women and children alone. It is un-
doubtedly in want of allies ; but it requires also jealous and rival neighbours to keep its
activity on the alert, not to suffer it to neglect its means of defence, or even of attack,
which tlie passions of men will constantly render necessary. It requires long intervals
of peace but until the fine dream of the abbe de St. Pierre be realized, it is also requisite
that its vigilance should never sleep, and that its courage, one of the distinctive character-
istics of a Spaniard, should not become paralyzed by the absence of danger.
Perhaps one ought further to wish that their government, renouncing old prejudices
and false ideas of grandeur, should fearlessly contemplate the prospect of the inevitable
future independence of the greater part of its colonies ; that preparing itself beforehand
for this separation, it migh. prevent its being attended with bloodshed ; that instead
of treating her colonists as grown-up children, under the yoke of a step moUier, she
should freely emancipate her children, wlio thus might preserve a lasting affection for
their mother, and become her most intimate allies ; that she should become convinced
that this pacific revolution, gently brought about by wisdoiti, would be fiicilitated by the
conformity of manners, language and religion; that she might profit by the example
of England, whose tyranny towards its old colonists retarded this approximation, but
which for years back has witnessed, as a consequence of the nature of things, the
naturJ predilection of one nation in favour of another, with which it had been long
connected, and with which it preserves so many correspondent usages ; that this go-
vernment might learn also from the example of the same English, of the Dutch, and
of the French that it is neither the number nor the extent of colonies, but their mode
of organ'zation and the excellence of their laws which tend to enrich the metropo-
lis; for the French part of St. Domingo alone, in 1788, was more productive to
4 M 2
n
>'
636
boi/rcoanne's travels in stain.
France than the island of Cuhn, Nfcxico, and Peru tofi^cther were to the Spaniarda.
1 pause. I call to mind the anti(piated prejudices retained in the archives of
the council of the Indies, heir looms devolvinpto eaen minister of the day, from the pe-
riod of the conquest of America. I feel how aijortivc all such hopes must be ; but woe
to Spain if they be long deferred.
At least I conjure you, Spaniards of the present day, renounce these schemes of ag-
grandizemlnt with which you arc charged. Has not your f^overnment, have ye not
yourselves a thousand other modes of increasing your prosperity, employing your zeal,
your riches, your talents, and your courage ?
Your zeal, which especially within these twenty years is directed to objects worthy
of you. It was the parent of those patriotic societies, the opcningof which waa of such
auspicious promise, but which, with some few exceptions, have brought forth nothing
but plans and good wishes; but which at the same time ask for encouragement alone to
become far more productive. For notwithstanding your government be despotic, you
truly possess the amor patriae ; and notwithstanding the efforts that arc used to keep you
in the dark, this attachment to your country has promoted intelligence.
Your riches, which lay idle in your money chests, or are placed in banks which re-
ceive it at a moderate interest, and employ it for their individual advantage ; why do you
not dedicate them, not to pious foundations already so numerous, and which seem
rather intended to encourage indolence than solace distress, but rather to establishments
which might be serviceable to your country, beneficial to yourselves, and spread life and
plenty from one boundary of the empire to the other ? Imitate in this instance at least
those haughty rivals, who never ought to have been your allies. Contemplate the ama-
zing works of this description which public spirit has generated in England, its nume-
rous canals projected and begun, not at immense expence by kings, ministers, or in-'
tendants, but by individuals who enliven whole districts for their own particular profit;*
In some of your provinces, you already have canals of irrigation which might serve for
models. Encrease the number of them. Your country, however parched it appear,
possesses more resources of this kind than meet the eye of the rapid traveller. It is
destitute of shade ; second the views of government by a multiplication of plantations.
Thus will ye shelter your cattle, your meadows, and yourself from the fury of a burning
sun. Invite and pension artists who may furnish you with machinery to lessen labour
and save time. Without waiting for the interposition of government, repair the roads
of your different neighbourhoods, cultivate breeds of horses, and artificial meads. This
luxury will ye find more gratifying far than your rich gala dresses, your numerous pen-
sioned satellites, and your various trains of carriages.
Your talents are evidenced in every department. In printing you excel. Your ma-
nufactories of cloth, particularly those of Guadalaxara, and Segovia, come nigh to per-
fection. For twenty years back have your silk works made such progress as to excite
alarm among your rivals. In your roads, in Biscay, Navarre, that of La Sierra Morena,'
and those of the neighbourhood of your capital, in your basin at Carthagena, in the dam
opposed to the waves before Cadiz, inmany of your modern bridges, in several of your
vessels of war, you have exhibited master-pieces of industry. Civil architecture has
produced buildings in the capital, at the different royal residences, and in several great
towns, remarkable for the excellence of their plans, and for the symetry of their pro-
portions. You have several engravers who deserve to be noticed, and who only
want to be better known, and more encouraged. Some of your painters revive the
glory of your school, too little known among foreigners, and which, though late, your
government at length means to hold out to the admiration of Europe with the assistance
I iiirV-'Irf^'- - '^ ■
. .i^--***^****^' ''*^'*
BOURCOAtfNC's IRAVILS IN SFAIK.
637
Spaniards,
archives of
om the pe.
but woe
mcs of ap.
>vc ye not
your zeal,
ct:i worthy
vati of such
'th nothing
!nt alone to
ipotic, you
0 keep you
> which re-
'hy do you
liich seem
blishment.*!
'ad life and
ice at least
5 the ama-
its nunie.
ers, or in-
liar profit.'
t serve for
it appear,
ler. It is
lantations.
a burning
en labour
the roads
Is. This
rouspen.
Vourma.
1 to per-
to excite
Morena,
the dam
il of your
;ture has
tral great
heir pro-
^ho only
vive the
ite, your
isistance
of the engraver.* Other arts less brilliant but more useful arc cultivated among you
with success. You have brought to perfection the matuifucturc of iron. You make
advances in refining copper. Your works in gold and silver begin to assume somewhat
of elegance. Few coins are better struck than yours in Europe. Shortly your govern-
ment will no longer be under the necessity of leaving to foreigners of genius, and foreign
mechanics, the care of coneeiving and executing schemes for your own advantage. Too
long has genius been with you uu article of importation, it has at length become an in«
digenous production. It is now the duty of your government to seek it out, and turn
it to profit.
And lastly, your courage has indisputably sufficient means of exercise in time of
peace; for much of it is wanting to attack those abuses which account for and procras-
tinate your state of languor. It is wanting to diminish the multitude of priests and
monks who are a scandal to, and devour you, doing no less an injury to religion than
to agriculture. It is wanting to eftlct the partitioning of those properties, the vastncss
of which explains the imperfect cultivation and unpeopled condition of the two Cas-
tiles and Andalusia. It is u anting to stop in their destructive career those Majorats,
an institution of pride, so opposite to the feelings (jf nature, which unites in a first born
male and his race every advantage oi'fortune, and tluis paralyzes a multitude of estates.
It is wanting to divest the Mesta of its ruinous privileges, and to restore to proprietors
the exclusive enjoyment of their fields and pastures. And especially is it wanted to cure
the people of its superstitious |)r€icticcs, and overturn those altars on which they sacrifice
with trembling ; to deliver it from the tribunal which it dreads as much as it reveres, and
which is useless even to despotism, when it combined wisdom with energy.
And as to these different kinds of courage, in possession of which Spain would shortly
become regenerate, it is among the governors alone that they have been wanting hither-
to ; many among the governed possess them fully. How many ministers have there
not been in the last century, animated with that daring spirit which actuates man to
great actions.
Here an Albcroni giving a shock to the Spanish nation, violent it is true, and ill
timed, which however tends to awaken her for some years from her lethargy.
There a Mucanas, who dared to oppose the abuses of the Inquisition, and who after-
wards became its apologist.
ACampillo, facing the clamours of the farmers general, those cormorants of the reve-
nue, and putting the collection of the revenues of the crown into commission.
An Ensenuda, conceiving many bold and useful plans, seeking and finding able co.
adjutors.
A Galvcz, trampling on antiquated prejudices which restricted the commerce of
Spanish An\erica to a single port.
An Olavide, attacking vigorously the most sacred abuses ; creating, organizing, and
spreading life through a vast colony, and metamorphosing forests and deserts into a
cheerful neighbourhood.
A Carraseo, braving the hatred of great proprietors for the purpose of despoiling them
of their usurpations.
1 (> I
• For some years back, the court of Madrid has projected, however tardily, the production to the
world of the celebrated works of which it is mistress by the means of the engraver, and notwithstand-
ing the wur, it appears that the plan is continued, artists being employed for the purpose, as well ntr-
lives of the country, as those of France and Germany.
— •;. .. .^--WiwL.,
■-•■ V-^ •;...i, ^^-a.^
G38
VAirRCOANNl's TKAVELI IK SPAIM.
A count d'Araiida calling; philosophy about the throne, the upptication of which, tern-
pcnd by wisdom, would increase the prosperity of the subject without weakening the
power of the king.
A Cabarrus, endeavouring in spite of custom and envy to establish beneficial inno-
vations that unfolded resources, of which the Spanish nation had scarcely a conception.
A Roda, a Camponiancs, u Florida Blanca, even attempting wiih the same success to
restrict v/ithin due bounds the authority of the church, distinguishing proper!) between
a respect for religion, and a stupid veneration for its ministers.
Thcic, and twenty other examples, prove that particularly in this last century, as soon
us government has manifested a disposition to patronize useful entrrpnzes, it has found
intrepid agents ready to promote its views. Let it therefore but be bold, its subjects
will not be found deficient.
Despotic gov«rnments possess tliis advantage every where; a single demonstration of
their will firmly made, and resolutely adhered to, m;iy effect wonders, even among na-
tions of small intelligence, and without animation. Of what then might not (hat of Spain
be capable with a populace fecund in men of brilliant genius and strong character; with
a nation which, properly restored to its natural energy, would only require to be directed
and restrained.
What a charming task, young minister, has fate allotted you, you whom I saw at
your first appearance ! The course is before you. The sovereign's favour levels every
obstruction before you ; it may conduct you to a fame of greater durability, and much
more worthy your ambition. At your age you may conceive extensive plans, and trust
to consummate them. If so disposed, you may at once refute the calumniators of your
country, cause it to resume its rank in Europe, and establish for yourself a mostdistin-
guished one in history.
Already do you fill some of its pagis which you ought not to wish to see torn. You
have been at the head of affairs during a war which was much less disastrous to Spain
than what it might have been ; and at the establishment of a peace, in which the sacrifices
on your part have borne no comparison to the misfortunes experienced. Without deny-
ing the part which skill certainly had in a matter which astonished all Eii''ope, one yet
may believe that the influence of Uk* fortunate star, under which you were born, has ex-
tended to your ministerial operaiioi^s. The name you have adopted in consequence of
these great events, seems to hold out an abridgment of what you conceive your duty.
But if for an instant I could forget I was a Frenchman, I should charge you with having
already forsaken it, by engaging your country in a new quarrel, the least injurious con-
sequence of which will be that of retarding the return of complete prosperity ; of that
prosperity, all the sources of which are in your custody, and which if facts, and a crowd
of other testimony may be credited, is the most earnest wish of your heart. For we well
know that politics and military afiliirs engross not all your ?ime, that you are desirous of
promoting arts and industry, and that far from fearing genius you take pleasure in raising
those whom modesty and want of encouragement have placed in obscurity ; that you
enable intelligent persons to travel abroad in order to obtain instruction on taste which
is wanting in your various establishments, for convenience and luxury, and to study by
nice inspection those models which national pride need not blush to copy.
We learn more recently that, seconded by eminent persons whose confidence you
enjoy, you have resolution enough to make head against a tribunal, once formidable
to sovereigns themselves, and that in the contest, the temporal power has proved
victorious.
.i^,w. ■'ilciiniMri ■■ti**'
BOURCOANNE'S TRAVILS IN IPAIN.
639
" .icsc wise measures, these vigorous acts arc of good augury. You appear to be
sensible that it were vain to nttcmpl the regeneration of a country while subject to fana-
ticism. Your country has lately thirsted for information, and now it will be fruitkhs to
oppose the inciinution. The waters, whose course a dam would stop, or ovtiflow, or
break away the mound, their tranquil course might fertilize ana irrigate the ad-
jacent country, which their violent irruption would lay waste. So is it wiUi knowledge,
if it still had to contend with institutions which might restrain its progress, it would
disturb the tranquility of the country, and might even shake tbc throne. It is by
fostering it, that power will preserve itself from tne inconveniences it else mi^ht expe-
rience. I would willingly compare it to those French revolutionists, whom kuigs hcvc
thought it right to persecute in order to prevent fhc cxteusionofth'.'ir alarming maxims.
Those French who, before the rupture were watched with vexatious severity, were then
by their secret conspiracies much more to be dreaded than they are now, that peace is
established between the two nations, and fn nkness presides in the dilTerent relations
between the twc governments. So is it with knowledge. If you wish to render it
dangerous, repulse it, treat it as an enemy. If you would render it beneficial to the
people, uninjurious to majesty, treat it us an ally.
This truth is not foreign to every court. Yours is worthy of hearing it. Your con-
ciliating disposition, your good sense will make light the task of ensurmg its adoption.
Perhaps it would be the most secure method of securing your country agamst that revo-
lutionary spirit with which it is said to be threatened. Lurope, which has its eyes upon
you, must have to say thus of you.
By the mildness of his administration he managed so as to render despotism tolerable.
He listened to the advice of that philosophy which does not stand discredited with him,
because of the errors of some of it5i lollowers. He wishes the church to continue the
support of the throne, but not to rival its power. He allows it should remain the pro-
tector of orthodoxy, but interdicts its persecution.
Firm and faithful to the ties which nature and experience prescribe to his country,
he thinks it ought to have perpetual allies, but only transitory enemies. War in his
estimation is sometimes inevitable, but he docs not consider it a necessary element
in the structure of his reputation. He considers that it is under the shade of peace
alone that those arts can prosper which he loves, that industry which he encourages,
and most especially agriculture, which for so great a length of time has required those
gentle and wisely calculated reforms, which war must make impossible.
Your flatterers perhaps will tell you that this is your portrait. Your friends, that I
have east your horoscope, founded indeed upon presumption, but which it is requisite
you should justify in order to deserve the gratitude of your country, and the eulogy of
posterity.
''\
■if'
f
TRAVELS IN SWITZEIU.ANU,
AND IK
THK COUNTRY OF THE ORISONS:
IN A SEHIKS OF LETTERS
TO WILLIAM MELMOTH, ESQ.
I'ROM WILLIAM COXE, MA. I'.R.S. F.A.S.
RKCTOii or BEMKnrON.*
TO THE COUNTESS OF PEMBROKE AND MONTGOMERY.
iiADAM,
THESE letters, relating to Switzerland, naturally claim your ladyship's protec-
tion ; for they were originally written while I had the honour of accompanying lord
Herbert on his travels. I ftr! myself highly flattered, therefore, in having the permis-
sion of inscribing them to your ladyship, and of thus publicly acknowledging that I am,
with great respect, and gratitude for obligations received from the earl of Pembroke and
youi ladyship, Madam, your ladyship's moot obedient and obliged humble servant.
WM. COXE.
Vienna, June 26, 1778.
PREFACE TO THE EDITION OF 1789. "*
TEN years have elapsed since I gave to the public a volume of letters, under the
title of " Sketches on the Natural, Civil, and Political State of Switzerland." The fa-
vourable reception of that work induced me, in 1779, to make a journey through the
country of the Orisons, a part of Switzerland hitherto little known. Having, in 1785
* and 1787, opportunities of revisiting the same spots which I had before described, I was
axious to revise and augment my former publication. With this view I compared my
descriptions at the very places which I attempted to delineate ; attentively perused the
criticisms of succeeding travellers ; and in many of the principal towns I entreated se-
yeral persons, of political or literary eminence, to correct any errors, or to suggest any
improvement, with respect to those particular parts, with which, from situation, they
V were most convers it.
The materials collected from these and other sources, increased by my own observa-
tions and researches, encourage me to hope, that the present improved account of so
interesting a country as Switzerland, will not be unacceptable to the public, and may be
considered as a new work.
Bemerton, Feb. 20, 1789. •*
'London, J80I, .I vols, octavo, 4th edition.
^4».
I «
iliip's protec-
ipanying lord
S? the pc-rmis-
inp; that I um,
'cm broke and
e servant.
^M. COXE.
rs, under the
d." The fa-
through the
in^, in 1785
icribed, I was
lompared my
' perused the
entreated se-
suggest any
Luation, they
)wn observa-
xount of so
, and may be
TJVI TKUS, bcv
LKTTr.U I.
Jioute through the black Jhrest..,, Source t]f the Dunubt:.
OEAt sfR, Ffonnchingrn, July 21, 1770.
I AM now at Doncschinfren, in my way towards Suitzerlaiid, a countr)' longcelc-
Ijratcd lor the pcculiurities of its different jjovcrnments, and the sin^jiilar beauties con-
ferred upon it by nature. If it will not be trespassing upon your natirnce, I nroposo
to trouble you with some account of my tour, for 1 am persuaded th;it I shall travel
with much gr.'uter profit to myself; ns the reflection that my observations arc to be
communicated to you, will render mc more attentive and accurate in forming them.
Wc quitted Strasburgh ycsterduy, and crossed the Rhine to KthI, formerly an im
portant fortress belonging to Strasburgh when an imperial city. It was also strongly
fortified by the French, who took possession of it in 1G48 : being ceded to the empire
at the |K*ace of Ryswic, the emperor consigned it to the house of Baden, reserving to
himscli the right of a garrison. Since that period it hai been twice attacked by the
French, and as during the last siege, in 1733, die works were considerably damaged,
the im|ierial garrison has been witlidrawn. At present there are only the ruins of i\\v
ancient fortifications ; and by way of g-arrison, a few invalids belonging to the margrave
of Baden. From Kehl we proceeded to Offenburgh, a small imperial town, and soon
after entered the beautiful valley of Kinsiog : we passed through Gengcnbach, anothtr
small imperial town, finely situated, and continued our journey by the side of the small
river Kinsing, rising gradually for several leagues togetner, until wc found ourselves in
the midst of the Black Forest. The country, as \\g ascend, became more wild and
romantic, and the river more rapid f on each hand mountains, whose acclivities were
finely cultivated, and whose top were richly covered with a continual forest. Several
small streams of the clearest water rolled iSovm the sides of the mountain in numberless
cascades, and uniting fell into the Kinsing. The views were so exceedingly divTSjificd,
the villages so delightfully situated, and the cottages so exceedingly picturesque, that we
almost seemed to nave anticipated the romantic beauties of Switzerland.
Doneschingen is the principal residence of the prince of Furstenberg, in the court-
yard of whose palace the Danube takes its rise. I am this moment returned from vi-
siting the spot, the description of which may be comprised in a few words. Some small
springs bubbling from the ground form a basin of clear water, of about thirty feet
square t from this basin issues the Danube, which is here only a little brook. And
though the two small rivers of Bribach and Brege, uniting below the town, are far more
considerable than this stream, which flows into them soon after their junction ; yet the
latter alone has the honour of being called the source of the Danube. Having gone
through the ceremony of striding across the stream, in order to say that we had stepped
over ihc Danube, we soon satisfied our curiosity ; the object in itself being by no means
extraordinary, but deriving its sole consideration from being the source of so noble a
river. Indeed it was this circumstance alone that induced us to enter Switzerland by
the way of Suabia.
I am, dear Sir, very afiectionatcly yours,
WILLIAM COXE.
VOL. V. 4 N
i
(Mi
t ■ tiffT ' ' :j*u>rgK:vK iijia iiim rniii** f-mmmm?v<iM>**imm-nmfimtM»*m'
642
COX£'s TRAVELS IN SWITZERLANl
LETTER II.
(
Arrival in Switzerland... .Schaff/iausen,... Fall of the Rhine,
Schoffhausefu July 22.
I FEEL great d(;Iight in breathing the air of liberty : every person here bus appa-
rently the mien of content and sctistUction. The cleanliness of the bouses, and of the
people, is peculiarly striking ; and I can trace in all their munners, behaviour, and dress,
some strong outlines which distinguish this happy people from the neigbouring nations.
Perhaps it may be prejudice and unreasonable partiality ; but I am the more pleased,
because their first appearance reminds me of my own countrymen, and I could almost
think for a moment that I was in England.
Schaftliausen, a tolerably well-built town, situated upon the northern shore of the
Rhine, is the capital of the canton, and owt-s its origin to the inturruption of the navi-
gation of that river by the cataract at LaufTen : huts being at first constructed for the
convenience of unloading the merchandise from the boats, by degrees increased to a
large town. SchafThausen was formerly an imperial city, and governed by an aristo-
cracy ; but it was mortgaged in 1330, by the emperor Louis of Bavaria, to the dukes
of Austria, and was released from its dependency by the emperor Sigismond when Fre-
derick duke of Austria was put under the ban of the empire. In 1501 it was admitted
a member of the Helvetic confederacy ; and is the twelith canton in rank. Of all the
cantons it is the least in size, being only five leagues in length, and three in breadth :
its population is supposed to amount to thirty thousand souls, of which the capital con-
tains about six thousand.
The whole number of citizens or burgesses (in whom the supreme power ultimately
resides) is about sixteen hundred. They are divided into twelve tribes ; and from these
are elected eighty-five members, who form the great and little council. To these two
councils combined, the administration of affairs is committed : the senate, or little coun-
cil of twenty-five, being entrusted with the executive power ; and the great council,
comprising the senate, finally deciding all appeals, and regulating the more important
concerns of government.
The revenues of the state are very inconsiderable, as will appear from the salary of
the burgomaster, or chief of the republic ; which barely amounts to 1501. per ann. The
reformation was introduced in 1529 : the clergy are paid by the state, but their income
is scarcely sufficient for their muintenance ; the best living being only about 1001. and
the worst 401. per ann. The professors of literature also, who are taken from the clergy,
are paid by government; and a school is supported at the public expence. Sumptuary
laws are in force here, as well as in most parts of Switzerland ; and no dancing is al-
lowed, except upon particular occasions. The principal article of exportation is wine,
of which a large quantity is made, the country abounding in vineyards : and as the
camoti furnishes but little corn, it is procured from Suabia in exchange for wine. In
the town there are a few manufactures of linen, cotton, and silk.
It will perhaps give you some idea oi the security of the Swiss republics, when I in-
form you that Schaffliausen, although a frontier town, has no garrison, and that the
fortifications are but weak. The citizens mount guard by turns ; and the people of the
canton being divided into regular companies of militia, which are exercised yearly, are
always prepared to act in defence of their country. This canton has some troops in
France, Sardinia, and Holland ; the only foreign services into which the subjects of the
Protestant cantons enlist.
>.<^'.Viit*--''t-^-"^>A ^^..^MAAfr*^*'
.™..:..3.
AKD IN THE COUNTRY OF THE ORISONS.
()4.S
tsefu July 22.
lere has appa.
es, and of the
>ur, and dress,
uring nations,
more pleased,
could almost
I shore of the
m of the navi-
;ucted for the
increased to a
by an aristo.
to the dukes
»nd when Fre-
was admitted
c, or all the
e in breadth :
>e capital con.
vtv ultimately
ind from these
To these two
or little coun*
[reat council,
are important
the salary of
er ann. The
their income
ut 1001. and
n the clergy,
Sumptuary
ancing is al-
ition is wine,
and as the
»r wine. In
» when I in.
ind that the
eople of the
yearly, are
e troops in
jects of the
Before I take leave of this town, I must not omit mcMitioninpf the bridge over the
Rhine, justly admired for the singularity of its architecture. The river is extremely
rapid, and had already destroyed several stone bridges of the strongest construction ;
when a carpenter of Appenzel offered to throw a wooden bridge, of a single arch, across
the river, which is near four hundred feet wide. The magistrates, however, required
that it should consist of two arches, and that he should for that purpose retain the middle
pier of the old bridge. The architect was obliged to obey ; but he has contrived to
leave it a matter of doubt, whether the bridge derives any support from the middle
pier ; and whether it would not have been equally safe if formed solely of one arch.
It is a wooden structure, and is what the Germans call a hasngcwerk, or hanging
bridge ; the sides and top are covered ; the road, which is almost level, is not carried, as
usual, over the top of the arch, but is let into the middle, and there suspended. The
pier is not in a right line with the buttresses, as it forms an obtuse angle pointing down
the stream, being eight feet out of the rectilinear direction. The distance of this middle
pier from the shore next to the town is a hundred and seventy-two feet, and from the
other side a lumdred and ninety-three ; in all, three hundred and sixty-five feet ; making
in appearance two arches of a surprising width, and forming a beautiful perspective
when viewed at some distance. A man of the slightest weight feels it almost tremble
underhim ; yet waggons heavily laden pass without danger. It has been compared to a
tight rope, which trembles when struck, but still preserves its firm and equal tension. I
went under this bridge to examine its mechanism, and was pleased with the simplicity
of the architecture : I was not capable of determining whether it rests upon the middle
pier, but many judges affirm that it does not.
On consulting the greatness of the plan, and the boldness of the construction, it is
matter of astonishment that the architect was originally a carpenter, without the least
tincture of literature, totally ignorant of mathematics, and not versed in the theory of
mechanics. The name of this extraordinary man was Ulric Grubenman, a native of
Tufifen, a small village in the canton of Appenzel. Possessed of great abilities, and a
surprising turn for the practical part of mechanics, he raised himself to great eminence ;
and may justly be considered as one of the most ingenious architects of the present
century. The bridge was finished in less than three years, and cost ninety thousand
florins.*
* About 80001. sterling. Mr. Andreae, in his Letters upon Switzerland, has given two engravings
of this bridge, to which he has added a very accurate description ol'its mechanical construction, com-
municated by Mr. Jetzler, of SchuiThausen. In this description he represents it as consisting of two
arches, and resting upon the middle pier. Several persons well skilled in architecture maintained
a contrary opinion i and in the former editions I w..s induced to adopt it, from the following reasons.
The architect himself constantly maintained that the bridge was not supported by the pier ; his ne-
phew, who was employed in its construction, confirmed the same assertion; and as at first it did not
even .touch the pier, it must therefore, at that time, have been considered as forming but one arch. I
must, however, candidly own, that in my subsequent visits to Schaffhausen in 1785 and 1786, I had
reason to change my opinion. At those periods the bridge was supported on piles, in order to under-
go a thorough repair. Mr. Spengler, a native of the town, had lately returned iVon» Russia, where lie
bad' passed many years in the capacity of an architect, fortunately discovered that much ill-seasoned
wood having been employed in its construction, many of the timbers were absolutely decayed ; and
that one side had greatly swerved from its original direction. This ingenious artist, after having ex-
patiated on the simplicity and boldness of the design, informed me that the bridge undoubtedly consists
of two arches ; and that although Grubenman, of whose abilities he spoke with deserved encomium,
aifected to place the timbers in such a manner as to resemble but one arch, and always asserted that
it was not supported by the pier ; yet that the whole fabric would undoubtedly have fallen, if that ijier
had been taken away. He obligingly shewed me his plan for repairing the bridge, and for strcngth-
4 N 2
«■■!
I
.^..:..J:..
•>ii^U>i:3!i4i4^3^gifcii-ii,-ai,ft,iVi\
U^»"-1■■^. 'i.*V.',it'T,,'.>fc.". :■*-', .>#*..=>? L V,^*Vj,,
644
coxe's travels in sw^itzehland,
This morning wc rode about a league, to the Fall of the Rhine at Laufien. Our route
lay over the hills which form the banks of the river : the environs are picturesque and
agreeable, the river beautifully winding through the vale. Upon our arrival at Lauffen^
a small village in the canton of Zuric, we dismounted, and advancing to the edge of the
precipice which overhangs the Rhine, looked down perpendicularly upon the cataract,
and saw the river tumbling over the sides of the rock with amazing violence and preci.
pitation. From hence we descended till we were somewhat below the upper bed of the
river, and stood close to the fall, so that I could almost have touched it with my hand.
A scaffolding is erected in the very spray of this tremendous cataract, and upon the most
sublime point of view : the sea of foam rushing down ; the continual cloud of spray
scattered to a great distance, and to a considerable height ; in short, the magnificence of
the whole scenery far surpassed my most sanguine expectations, and exceeds all descrip.
tion. Within about an hundred feet of the scaffolding, two crags rise in the middle of
the fall : the nearest is perforated by the continual action of the river, and the water forces
itself through in an oblique direction with inexpressible fury, and an hollow sound.
Having contemplated the awful sublimity of this wonderful landscape, we descended and
crossed the river, which was extremely agitated.
Hitherto I had only viewed the cataract obliquely ; but here it opened by degrees,
and displayed another picture, whif^h I enjoyed at my leisure, as I sat down on the oppo*
site bank. The most striking objects were, the castle of Lauffen, erected upon the very-
edge of the precipice, and projecting over the river ; near it, a church and some hou-
ses; a clump of cottages close to the fall ; in the back ground, rocks planted with vines,
or tufted with hanging woods ; a beautiful little hamlet upon the summit, skirted with
trees ; the great body of water that seemed to rush out from the bottom of the rocks ;
the two crags boldly advancing their heads in the midst of the fall, and in the very point
of its steepest descent, their tops feathered with shrubs, and dividing the cataract into
three principal branches. The colour of the Rhine is extremely beautiful, being of a
clear sea-green, and I remarked the fine effect of the tints, when blended with the white
foam in its descent. There is a pleasing view from an iron foundery close to the river,
which is dammed up, in order to prevent its carrying away the works and neighbouring
cottages: by means of this dam a small portion of the river is diverted, turns a mill, and
forms a little silver current, gliding down the bare rock, and detached from the main ca-
taract. Below the fall the river widens considerably into a more ample basin ; at the fall,
the breadth seemed to be about three hundred feet. With respect to its perpendicular
height, travellers differ : those who are given to exaggeration reckon it a hundred feet ;
but I should imagine about fifty or sixty feet will be nearer the truth. I stood for some
time upon the brink of the cataract, beheld with admiration, and listened in silence ;
then crossed the river, remounted my horse, and returned to Schaffhausen.
. Some writers have asserted that the Rhine precipitates itself in one sheet of water,
and, as I before observed, from a perpendicular !.eight of a hundred feet. In former
ages this might be the fact ; as it is probable that the space between the banks was
once a level rock, and considerably higher, and that the river has insensibly undermined
those parts on which it broke with the utmost violence ; for, within the memory of
.;rn'
ening it bf meafit of additional timbers, in order to render it able to support its own weighty whes
the piles should be removed.
Vid Briese aus der Schweitz nach Hannover geschrieben. Zuric, 1776. '.^.
This bridge was destroyed by the Freshch in 1799, when they were driven from Schaffhausen by Al|^i>
Austrians.
t
1 J..'i?4
*%';.
■I- ,,t
li/.^^v- *.*Jlr»S*-i
t^''^.A -/-^^r. •..;*^ «/«••»• ,.*.j".
.) -k ■ 'tUi-*.
, JkWiii. 'iii.-->«. A ■ifeitfcJr.iigUiAi.fe'- '• -Uir^
AND IN THE COUNTRY OF THE CRIS0N8.
645
>ur route
ique and
LaufTen^
ge of the
cataract,
»d preci-
Jdofthe
ly hand,
the most
)f spray
cence of
descrip.
liddle of
T forces
sound,
tded and
degrees,
le oppo.
the very
ne hoy,
h vines,
ed with
rocks;
ry point
^ct into
ing of a
le white
ic river,
jouring
>ill, and -
lain ca-
the fall,
idicular
d feet;
>rsome
ilence^
water, m
former i.i
ks was V
'mined '^y
loiy of
"''ii
-.1
when
byUie
■n
■Hi
'm-n
several inhabitants of this town, a large rock has given way, that has greatly altered the
view. Indeed, I am convinced that the perpendicular height of the fall diminishes every
year, by the continual friction of so large and rapid a body of water, and have no doiibt
but that the two crags which now rise in the midst of the river, will in time be under-
mined and carried away. The Rhine, for some way before the fall, even near the bridge,
dashes upon a rocky bottom, and renders all navigation impossible. I am, 8cc.
LETTER III.
fsle qf Relchenau Constance Genevan establishment Isle of Meinau.^..Lake of
Constance.
Constance^ July 24.
YESTERDAY morning we quitted SchafThausen, and crossed the Rhine at Diessen-
hoffen, a small town in Thurgau ; a country dependent upon the eight ancient cantons :
from thence to Stein the road lay by the side of that river. Stein is an independent town
under the protection of Zuric, but governed by its own laws and magistrates. At this
place we took a boat to carry us to Constance. A little above Stein the river widens
considerably, and forms the inferior lake of Constance, or the ZellerSce ; which is divid-
ed into two branches : from Stein to Constance is about sixteen miles, and from the lat-
ter to Zell, its greatest breadth, about ten.
A fine breeze soon carried us to the island of Reichenau, which belongs to the bishop
of Constance: it is about three miles long, and one broad; contains about sixteen hun-
dred inhabitants, ail Catholics, three parishes, one village, and a rich abbey of Benedic-
tines, of which the bishop of Constance is abbot. The su^ierior was exceedingly civiid '
and shewed us all the relics and curiosities of the convent : among the latter was a cu-
rious tooth of Charles le Gros. That monarch, who was emperor and king of France,
and who possessed dominions as extensive as those of Charlemagne, lived to want the
common necessaries of life, and to depend for his subsistence upon the charity of an
archbishop of Mentz. He was publicly deposed in 887, at a meeting of the principal
French, German, and Italian barons, whom he himself had summoned: after having
languished a year in extreme want and misery, he died at a small village near Mcntz, in
Gemany, and his remains were conveyed to this convent. The next remarkable cu-
riosity was an emerald, as it is called, of an extraordinary size, which, according to the
annals of the convent, was a present from Charlemagne. Take its dimensions, and then
judge whether it can be an emerald : it has four unequal sides, the longest is near two
feet, and die broadest about nine inches ; it is one inch thick, and weighs about twenty,
nine pounds. The superior valued it at ;^4500 ; but if it is, as I conjecture, nothing
more than a transparent green spathfluor, its value will be reduced to a few shillings.
Upon our return to the inn where we dined, we found a present from the superior, more
valuable to us than all the relics and curiosities of his convent ; two bottles of excellent
wine, the growth of the island, which is almost a continued vineyard.
In the evening we arrived at Constance ; the situation of which upon the Rhine, be-
tween the two lakes, is most delightful. I was much affected with the solitary appear-
ance of a town once so flourishing in commerce, and so celebrated in the annals of hb-
tory. A dead stillness reigns throughout ; grass grows in the principal streets ; in a
word, it wears the melancholy aspect of being almost totally deserted, and scarcely con-
tains three thousand inhabitants. This city has endured a sad reverse of fortune: it.
was formerly in alliance with Zuric and Basle, and supported by their assistance, expelled
!■ ;
:^^<£v-<**i««;^^^sk«-f»itVB<.ii^aKi,;w«..,vW::Ait
4». 'Si' •'-■■•
646
COX£*S TRAVELS IN SWITZERLAND,
the bishop, and cmljmccd the reformation. But the Protestant cantons being worsted
in 1351 ; and the league of Smalcudc, of which Constance was a member, being de-
feated by Charles V, the town was obliged to submit to the emperor, and re-admit the
Catholic religion. From this period it lost its independence, and, being neglected by
the house of Austria, fell by degrees into its present state ; exhibiting to some of the
ncighI)ouring Swiss cantons, an instructive contrast, which must sensibly endear to them
their own invaluable happiness, in the commerce and libi rties which they enjoy.
We paid a visit to thechamljcr where the council of Constance *vusheld in 1415, and
had the honour of sitting in the two chairs, in u hich sat pope John XXIII,* and the em.
peror Sigismond ; if any honour can be derived from a turbulent ecclesiastic, and a per-
jured sovereign. By a sentence of this council, the celebrated reformer John Hnss, trust-
iiig to the protection of the emprror, w ho violated his word, was burnt as an hcri'i jc. The
house is still shewn where he was seized ; npon the w.ills is his head, carved in stone, but
now almost defaced ; with an inscription inJer it iu German. Jerome of Prague, his dis-
ciple, had the weakness to recant before the same coiuicil ; but this weakness was amply
compensated by the greatness of soul with vvliicli he again retracted this recantation, and
by the calm and intrepid magnanimity \^hicll lie displayed in his last moments at the
stake. From tlie top of the cathedral we had a superb view of the town, and of the two
lakes ; with the rugged Alps of TmoI and Appenzcl, their tops covered with perpetual
snow,
Constance may again become a c^mimcrcial town, through the permission granted by
the emperor to the emigi mts from Geneva, of settling and carrying on their trade and
manufactures, with very considerable privileges. Messrs. Roman and Meilly, watch-
makers of Geneva, were the first persons, whom the troubles of their native republic
^>lrove to Constance. They received from the emperor the following immunities for
ifhemselves and countrymen :
The right of purchasing or building houses ; free exercise of religion, entirely inde-
pendent of the Catholic clergy ; the power of erecting a tribunal for the purpose of de-
ciding all affairs relative to their manufactures and commerce ; exemption from serving
in the militia and quartering soldiers, from all contributions during the space of twenty
years, from duties on their tools and utensils ; the standard of the gold and silver em-
ployed in their manufactures to be invariably fixed. These favourable terms, signed on
the 30th of June 1785, attracted so many settlers to Constance, that, in my second visit
to this place, on the 25th of October 1787, the new colony of Genevans consisted of se-
venty families, comprising three hundred and fifty persons; among these were fifty-four
watchmakers, who had introduced the different branches of manufacture which belong
to their trade. Four hundred watches were already finished, and above fourteen hun-
dred more were preparing. ,'
The emperor has also granted to Mr. Macaire the convent of Dominicans lately secu-
larized, towards establishmg a manufacture of printed linens and cottons. The refectory
is appropriated for the chapel of the new colony.
1 did not omit visiting a small dungeon, about eight feet long, six broad, and seven
high, in which John Huss was confined, wherein I observed the very stone to which he
had been chained. I entered it however with very different sensations from those which
I experienced in 1776, when this convent was the asylum of monkish superstition. It
is now the seat of trade and industry ; and it must suggest a pleasing reflection to a
t>hilosophic mind, that a successor of Sigismond, who violated his wordi should have
fpr^^^r
* He was deposed in this councils
i» '?»* ^,
:..,»
^v»>-*.jU*.>^ »
AND IN THE COUNTRY OF THE CRISONS.
647
•eing worsted
■)cr, being de-
readmit the
II -glectcd by
some of fhe
ndciir to them
njoy.
III 1415, and
* and the cm,
tic, and a per-
il Hiiss, trust,
ihcrcijc. The
ill stone, but
lague, his dis-
2SS was amply
cantation, and
oments at the
iikI of the two
vith perpetual
on granted by
leir trade and
leilly, watch-
ative republic
imunities for
entirely inde-
urpose of de-
I from serving
ice of twenty
nd silver em-
Tis, signed on
' second visit
nsisted of se-
^ere fifty-four
I'hich belong
burteen hun-
» lately secu-
rhe refectory
3, and seven
to which he
those which
rstition. It
flection to a
should have
consigned to a reformed establishment that very convent in which the Bohemian divine
was imprisoned, and from which he was led to the stak< , and that the most enlarged
principles of toleration should be manifested in the same spot, where persecution was
inculcated by precept and example. It is the triumph of reason and religion over
bigotry and intolerance.
Jam just returned from a pleasant expedition to the small island of Meinau, in a bay
of the superior lake : this island, about a mile in circumference, belongs to the knights
of the Teutonic order. The bailiff shewed us the house of the commander, which is
prettily situated, and has a fine prospect of the lake, but contains nothing remarkable
except the cellars, which are well stocked with wine ; an article from which the chief
revenue of the commandery arises. Our good friend the bailiff was very free in offering
it ; and we, not to appear insensible of his civility, were constrained to taste several diffe-
rent sorts, which he successively presented, always praising the lost as the oldest and most
exquisite. The wine was indeed excellent, the glasses large, and a formidable row of
enormous casks still remained untasted ; so that, after having duly extolled several spe-
cimens, we found it expedient to decline the llirther solicitations of our generous host :
for, had we performed the whole ceremony, we must have tj^ken up our abode in the
castle for the night.
. . \ . ■ July 25,
We set sail about two hours ago from Constance. This superior lake, or, as it is
sometimes called, the Boden See, is about fifteen leagues in length and six in its greatest
breadth : it is one of the great boundaries that separate Switzerland from Germany.
The borders consist of gently rising hills ; on the left hand Suabia, and on the right
Thurgau, with a variety of scattered towns, villages, and monasteries : the form of the
lake inclines to an oval, and the water is of a greenish hue. I am now writing aboard
the vessel, and have been for some time in vain attempting to distinguish (what some
travellers have affirmed to be discernible) the waters of the Rhine from those of the lake.
The river in its course from the superior lake, being exactly of the same beautiful green-
ish colour as the inferior Jj^ke into which it flows, it is evident that the one can never be
distinguished from the other. Probably upon its first entrance into the superior lake it
is troubled, and consequently, for some way, its current may easily be traced : but it
purifies by degrees, and becomes an indistinct part of the great body of water.
This lake, like all the other lakes of Switzerland, is considerably deeper in summer
than in winter; a circumstance owing to the first melting of the snow from the neigh-
bouring mountains : it abounds in fish of various sorts. Yesterday evening, in our
expedition to Meinau, there was scarcely a breeze stirriiVg, and the lake was as
smooth as crystal : a brisk gale has now raised a fine curl upon the surllice, and the
surrounding landscape forms an assemblage of the most beautiful objects. In short,
the several views which present themselves are so truly enchanting, as to make me re-
gret every moment that my eyes are called off from the delightful scenes. You will not
wonder therefore, if lam tempted to bid vou adieu somewhat abruptly.
; ■ ' : " ' ^ Yours, &c.
P.S. The following description of the great trout which frequents all the Swiss lakes,
but more particularly abounds in the lake of Constance, was communicated by Thomas
Pennant, esq. This species of trout is called in this neighbourhood Illankin, and by
Linnaeus, Salmo Lacustris. The head is conical, and larger in proportion than that of a
salmon. The dorsal fin has twelve rays ; pectoral, fourteen ; ventral and anal, twelve
each. The under jaw, in full grown fish, ends in a blunt hook. The colour, as low
'■(W'-^p
ii iid,-.-.
648
COXE's travels in 8WITZIRLAKD,
ns the lateral line, "* a deep blue, brightening as it approaches the line, beneath that of
a silvery white ; all the upper part is spotted irregularly with bluck. This kind grows to
the weight ol" forty or forty-five pounds.
Tlicse fishes quit the deeps of the lukc in April, and go up the Rhine to deposit their
spawn. The inhabitants of the shores form wears across the river, in which they take
them in tlicir passage. Tiiey ore also caught in nets. The fishery lasts from May to
September ; the fishermen avoid taking any on the return, as they are then very lean and
quite exhausted. In spring and summer their flesh is of a fine red, and very delicate;
but, after tht y have spawned, it turns white, and becomes very indifferent. They feed
on fish, worms, and ins<!cts, and are particularly destructive to the graylings. Their
great enemy is the nike, which will attack an illankin four times as large as itself. For
u further account, the reader may consult the elegant Icthyologic by Mr. Block, vol. iiL
p. 155, who is the first naturalist that has given u satisfactory account of this gigantic
species.
LETTER IV.
St. Gallen.... Canton ofAppenzeL
July 26.
I WRITE to you from the midst of the Alps, under the shade of a grove of beeches,
while a clear stream of water, flowing at my feet, forms a natural cascade down the rock.
I have just made a hearty meal upon some bread and clieesc ; a most delicious repast,
after walking six miles over the mountains of Appenzel.
We this day quitted St. Galicn, and walked to Appenzel. The countrv is singularly
wild and romantic ; consisting of a continued series of hills and dales, vallies and moun-
tains, the tops of which are crowned with most luxuriant pastures. I could not
have conceived it possible, without having been an eye-witness, that any district whhin
the same compass could have exhibited so numerous a population ; the hills and vales
being thickly strewed with hamlets, scattered at a small distance from each other. The
picturesque mountains, the forests, the currents which we crossed, over bridges resem-
bling those I have observed in some of the best landscapes, added to the beauty of the
scenes, and diversified every step with the most pleasing objects. After having reposed
for a short time in this delightful spot, I cannot employ myself more to my satisfaction
than by continuing my journal.
In my last letter I took my leave of you upon the lake of Constance : we landed at
Roshach, a small burgh in the dominions of the abbot of St. Gallen, agreeably situated
in the midst of a bay at the edge of the lake, and at the bottom of a rising hill, richly
covered with wood and pasturages. From Roshach we went to St. Gallen, the
whole territory whereof does not exceed a mile and a half in circumference; and in-
cluding the town contains near eight thousand inhabitants. Every thing was alive ;
all persons wore the appearance of industry and activity ; exhibiting a striking opposi-
tion to Constance, which we had just quitted.*
* The subjects of the abbot of St. Galicn amounted to not less than 90,000. His dominions compris-
ed, first, the ancient territory of the abbey (Alte Landschafl'ten ;) secondly, the county of Tocken-
burgh. That county wa& purchased in 1468, by Ulric abbot of St. Galteu, from the last count, wh«
died without issue male. As the people possessed very considerable privileges, and the abbot was
desirous of extending his prerogatives, frequent disputes arose, which iiu:reased after the reformation*
when part oi' the inhabitants embraced ihe protestant doctrines. These dispmes were frequently re-
n<nved ; the abbot was supported by the cauthollc, the people by the protestant cantons ; and in 1709
» civil war broke out in Switzerland, which is usually called the war of the Tockenburg, and was ter-
..,(HU-«^»' ■'<•'*-■''*'
••■.J*--;-.
AND IN TH£ COUNTRY' OF THE CJIISONS.
C4y
|h that of
(grows to
The abbot and tOMii of St. Galltn arc both allies of the Swiss cantons, and each en.
joya the privilege of sending deputies to the general diet. The abbot of St. Gallen is
titular prince of the German empire, and is chosen by the seventy-two Benedictines, who
compose this chapter. He formerly possessed the sovereignty of the town, but the in.
habitants shook off his authority, and became independent : the various disputes which
since that period have arisen between the two rival parties, have been compromised by the
interposition of the Swiss cantons. The town is entirely protestant, and its government
aristo-democratical ; the subjects of the abbot ^ whose territory is very extensive) arc
mostly Catholics. It is remarkable, that the abbey in which the prince resides is situ-
ated close to the town, and in the midst of its territory ; as the town is also entirely sur-
rounded by the possessions of the prince.
The town owes its flourishinpr state to the uncommon industry of the inhabitants, and
to a very extensive commerce, arising chiefly from manufactures of linen, muslin, and
embroidery. In a place so entirely commercial, I was astonished to find the arts and
sciences cultivated, and literature in high esteem. In the library there are thirteen
Yolumes in folio, containing manuscript letters of the first German and Swiss reformers.
Luther ends a letter to Meluncthon as follows :
PeHtiH ci'um vivus, moriens cro mors tua, Papa.
These letters would probably throw much light on the history of the reformation.
The library belonging to the abbey is very numerous and well arranged ; and, among
a number of monkish manuscripts, contains several of the classic writers, which engaged
my chief attention. To this library we owe Petronius Arbiter, Silius Italicus, Valerius
Flaccus, and Quintilian, copies of which were found in 1413 ; it was formerly very
rich in curious manuscripts, but several being borrowed during the council of Constance
by the cardinals and bishops, were never returned.
The transition from the abbot of St. Gallen to the canton of Appenzel will not ap-
pear abrupt, as Appenzel once belonged to the abbot : the inhabitants, however, being
loaded with exorbitant and oppressive taxes, revolted in 1400, and maintained their in-
dependence with the desperate courage of a spirited people, who fi^ht for their liberties.
In 1452 they entered into a perpetual alliance with some of the neighbouring Swiss re-
publics, and in 1513 were admitted into the helvetic confederacy : they hold the last
rank among the thirteen cantons.
■■i' Before the reformation the whole canton was under one government ; but since that
period, part of the inhabitants having embraced the Protestant religion, and the other
part continuing Catholics, violent disputes were kindled between them, which, after
much contest, were at length comprised. By an agreement in 1597, the canton was
minated in 1712 by the pacification of Arau. In 1718 the constitution of the Tockenburg was set-
tied, in which the prerogatives of the abbot and the privileges of the people were precisely ascer-
tained. Still, however, the opposite pretensions of the abbot and the people produced occasional
disputes, and in the effervescence of the revolution the inhabitants vied with the Basilians, and the bor-
derers of the lake of Zuric, in their early demands of emancipation. They rose in January, paid the
sum of 14,500 florins, the original purchase money, to the bailiff, drove him from the country, plant-
ed trees of liberty in different parts of the district, and even in the midst of the abbey. On the 31st
Jar^uary the prince abbot quitted St. Gallen, and took refuge in the Brisgau.
In the new divisions of Switzerland, the dominions of the abbot of the town of St. Gallen ace com-
prised in the canton of Sentis, of which St. Gallen is the capital.
The people soon found the difference betweentheir new and ancient rulers ; for in the month of May
they were so dissatisfied with their government, that the French were obliged to send troopa into ihe
•ountry to quell an insuiTcction. »...,- ;..- , *
VOL. V. ' 4 o
•^^«i*i*i^^U&:o.i.;.i,;*,ki/iii.>^sii
k-^.ii.i«, :\'^J^..:i^ ,,^ •'••'.".».; i»M4e^;,.„. .. .^_.
''■*':;^.-/71!
65e
COXE's travels in SWITZERLAND,
i
divided into two portions, Rhodes Exterior, nnd Rhodes Interior ; it ^vnsstipulHt';^l, that
the former should be appropriated to the ProU'stunts, and the latter to the Catholics.
Accordingly the two parties stparatctl, and IbrnKd two republics ; their govt'rnment,
police, and finances, being totally indcpindent of each other. Each district stnds a de-
puty to the general diet ; the whole canton however has but one vote, and loses its
huflrage if the two parties are not luianimous. In both divisions the sovereign power is
vested in the people at large ; every male who is past sixteen having a vote in their ge-
neral assembly, held yearly for the creation of their magistrates and the purposes of le-
gislation, and each voter is obliged to appear armed on that particular occasion. The
Landamman is the first magistrate ; in each district there are two, who odministcr the
f)ffice alternately, and arc confirnud yearly. They have each a council, which possesses
jurisdiction in civil and criminal causes, has the care of the police, the management of
the fmances, and the general administration of affairs. The Landamman regent pre-
sides ; and the other, during the year in which he is out of office, is banneret, or chief
of the militia.
The Rhodes Exterior is much larger, and more peopled in proportion than the interior,
and the Protestants are in general more commercial and industrious than the Catholics.
The Protestants are supposed to amount to thirty. seven thousand ; the Catholics to twelve
thousand : an extraordinary nuniber in so small a canton, entirely mountainous, and of
which a great part consists of barren and inaccessible rocks. But the industry of the
inhabitants amply compensates for any disadvantage of soil ; for, the people are frugal
and laborious ; their property is secured, and they are exempted from all burdensome
and arbitrary taxes. These circumstances, joined to the right of partaking of the legis-
lation, and of electing their magistrates, inspire them with such animated sentiments of
their own importance and independence, as excite the most active and vigorous industry,
and those necessaries to which this industry is not sufficient, are abundantly supplied by
their neighbours, in exchange for manufactures and other articles, of domestic com-
merce. The chief part of the habitable country consists of rich pastures, and of course
their principal exports are cattle and hides, together with cheese and butter. Their
manufactures are coarse callicoes and muslins in great quantities, which are entirely
made in the houses of the inhabitants. The cotton is spun with the common wheel.
The web is bleached at home, and afterwards sent to be printed in the neighbourhood
of Neuchatel. The greatest bleachery I saw in the Alps was near Appenzel, which ex-
tended over three or four acres of ground. Part of the river Sitler is diverted to turn
the mill, which is of the simplest construction. A large wheel on the outside works
a long cylinder within, on which are fixed a number of cogs to raise the hammers
which beat the webs. In the same place are the boilers and other conveniences for the
business.
The only mills for spinning the cottons by water wl^ch I observed in Switzerland,
were near Neuchatel and Geneva ; but greatly inferior in size and ingenuity of ma-
chinery to those of England.
The flourishing state of the cotton manufactory has rendered many persons in the
Protestant districts easy in their circumstances, and even wealthy ; if wealth is estimated
from the general state of the natives, and not from the comparative view of distant and
greater opulence in large commercial cities. The villages of Trogen and Undevil
announce, by their superior neatness, the well-being of their inhabitants.
This canton contains no inclosed towns, but only two or three open burghs, of which
Appenzel is the largest in the Catholic, Trogen, Undevil, and Herisau inthe Protestant
district, and a few villages; indeed the whole country, except amongst the barren
t'^V.rtP)Ani»i».i. .
#.-,J^.J
J^.:.i;*-.>*B^<v*^'^>'AJ*itAtf.•^.4Jus-"^-: M^tW
^ j: ^jia'/nr-"^-*-'-'- -■"'^*^»*
';-Jfii; tt)>i'>a^;kMm^' I'^^^iy^t^^SM'KsUtt^
AND IN THE COUNIRV OF THE CRI80NS.
f)5»
lit'-d, that
la t holies,
frnincnf,
hds a dc.
I loses i(8
lower is
Ithcir ge-
es of Je.
The
lister the
lossesscs
pmcnt of
?nt pre-
|or chief
interior,
Uholics.
o twelve
and of
of the
« Jrugal
ensome
ie legis.
nents of
idustiy,
plied by
b com-
r course
Their
entirely
wheel.
urhood
ichex-
to turn
works
(Timers
for the
:rland,
f ma-
in the
nated
It and '
idevil
I'hich
«tant
arreit
rocks, is almost n contiiiiicd villugc, being thickly covered with excellent cottngcs.*
Euch cottugc hus its little territory, or a field or two of fine pasture ground, which arc
freoucntly skirted with trees. The mouiUnins arc for the most part bcuutifully wooded ;
and the canton is supplied with water in such exuberance, that we could hardly walk
two hundred paces without seeing a spring bubble from the grou ^d, or u torrent rush
down the sides of a rock.
In our way to Appcnzcl we entered several houses, which were nil built of wood ;
neatness and convenience being the principal object of the owners : such a remarkable
cleanliness prevailed throughout, as afforded a most striking proof of the general atten-
tion which the people pay to that essential article. A continued chain of these cultivat-
ed mountains, richly clothed with wood, and thickly studded with hamlets, which ap-
pear to have Ijccn placed by the genius of taste in the very spots where they would form
the most striking effect, exhibit a scries of landscapes inexpressibly pleasing : tt seemed
as if they belonged to independent clans ; independent but social, uniting for the great
purposes of legislation, and for the general preservation of their libcrucs.
Among the chief part of the inhabitants, the original simplicity of the pastoral life is
still preserved ; and 1 saw several venerable figures with long beards, that resembled the
pictures of the ancient patriarchs. The natives of this canton, in common wi'.h thr in-
Habitants of democracies, possess u natural frankness, and peculiar tone of equality,
which arise from a consciousness of dieir own independence. They also display a fund
of original humour, and are remarkable for great quickness of repartee, and rude sallies
of wit, which render their conversation extremely agreeable and iiitercsting.
In our way to Appenzel we passed through Tuffen, the birth-place of Ulric Gruben-
man, whom I mentioned in a former letter:* he has been dead some years, but his
abilities and his skill in practical architecture are, if I may use the expression, hereditary
in his family. We inquired for one of the Siime name, who was either his brother or
his nephew, whom we found at the alehouse. He is a heavy, coarse-looking man,
dressed like a common peasant, has a quick and penetrating eye, ^nd great readiness of
conversation. We told him that we were Englishmen, who were makii:g the tour of
Switzerland ; and that we could not pass through Tuffen without desiring to see a man
who was so much celebrated for his skill in architecture. He struck his breast, and re-
Elied in German, ** Here you see but a boor." Upon our talking with him about the
ridge of Schaffhausen, in the building of which he was employed, he assured us, that
it does not rest upon the middle pier, but is in reality a single arch. Near Appenzel
we observed an old man with venerable white hair hanging over his shoulders, who
looked like a substantial farmer : he inquired with a tone of authority, but with perfect
civility, who we were, and, upon our asking the same question respecting himself, our
guide informed us, that he was the Landamman, or chief of the republic. Happy peo-
ple, the nature of whose country, and the constitution of whose government both equally
oppose the strongest barrier against the introduction of luxury !
Doctor Girtanner, of St. Gallen, found in great abundance, on the top of the Appen-
sel mountains, the Draba Fyrenaica of Linnseus, not mentioned by Haller, in his cata-
logue of the Swiss plants. Yours, &c.
AppenztltJuly21,
.n-'Cj.'. '■ • , f»i,. ■ f
"*^^«-0^ r;?**:'* v. :!;:;■'>• .,ti-
* See page 643.
4 o2
'''''*^'-'-^'^'*t'-^fl^'^^^i.iii'y-ii^,.
'>\i(.:<L-.-JK~^uv /».ij.\
.*>!.* *t';i«..^ .^.»V-.
652
COXI'S TRAVKLS IN SWITZKR L A NU.
LETTKR V.
Galley (^ the Rhine The I^kc and Town of Wallcnstadt.
Saiett, July 27.
WE arc this moment arrived at tlic villnji;c of S:ilc't», when- wc propose passiiiff the
night : while supper is prcparinfj, I will conlinuc my journal. Wc could procure but
three horses at Appcnzcl, and as one of tht n» was appropriated to the buj^ffaj^e, 1 pre-
ferred walking. After having traversed u league in the canton, over a coittinued ranst
of mountains, enriched with beautiful meadows, and dotted with cottages, I reached its
boundary ; here the scene changed into a wild forest of firs and pines, without the least
appearance of any habitation. The road is scarcely more than three feet broad, and is
cither paved with large uneven pieces of rock, or formed of thick stakes bid closely to.
gether; but as the ground is in many parts softer than in others, these stakes in some
places sink deeper, and form a succession of uneven steps. The mountain by which we
descended into the plain is very steep ; which circumstance, added to the unevenness of
the stakes, makes the ascent and descent exceedingly difllcult for horses. Those wha
are pleased with an uniform view, may continue in the plain ; while others, who delight
in the grand and the sublime, and are struck with the wantonness of wild, uncultivated
nature, will prefer this road to the smoothest turnpike in Great Britain.
I walked slowly on, without envying my companions on horseback ; for I could sit
down upon an inviting spot, climb to the edge of a precipice, or trace a torrent by its
sound. I descended at length into the Rheinthal, or Valley of the Rhine ; the mountains
of Tyrol, which yielded neither in height or in cragginess to those of Appcnzel, rising
before me. And here I found a remarkable difference : for although the ascending and
descending was a work of some labour ; yet the variety of the scenes had given me spir-
its, and I was not sensible of the least fatigue. But in the plain, notwithstanding the
scenery was still beautiful and picturesque, I saw at once the whole WBy stretching be-
fore me, and had no room for fresh expectations; I was not therefore displeased when I
arrived at Oberriede, after a walk of about twelve miles, my coat slung upon my shoulder
like a peripatetic by profession. Here we procured a narrow cart ; m which, the roads
being rough and stony, you will readily believe we were not much at our case. The
evening however being fine, and the moon exceedingly bright, our journey was not alto-
gether disagreeable ; as it led us through a delightful country abounding in vines, fruit-
trees, flax, and pasturage.
The Rheinthal is a bailliage belonging to Appenzel and the eight ancient cantons,
which alternately appoint a bailiff. The people are of both religions, but the Protestants
are the most numerous.
fVaUenstadt, July 28.
We quitted Salets this morning, in the same cart in which we arrived, and it would
have afforded matter of some speculation to observe how we contrived to arrange our-
selves, our servants, a large Newfoundland dog, and the baggage, in so narrow a com-
pass : indeed we were so wedged in that, after we had fixed ourselves in our several
places, it was almost impossible to stir. The day was sultry, the road bad, and the cart
went barely at the rate of three miles an hour ; but the country still continued so pic-
turesque and mountainous, and our attention was so entirely engaged with the perpetual
variety of objects presented to our view, as to make us forget the inconveniences of our
equipage, and the excessive heat of the weather. From Trivabach, a small village upon
' iwm:'
; i»i-'-»*-^-***-- "-^■*-'
i...V^«.! ^*-W**' .«.-.*"-*-** >-*-A*.-
^'.yrt Lw^WWb'^f^FrtiVM.'Ww;
Attn IN THE cot/Ninv or tiiu. r.nisoNj.
053
Mj27.
ure l)ut
I f)re.
I'd ranfft
chcd Its
[the least
\ and is
>8cly to.
|in some
jhich we
mess of
>sc wh«
delight
Itivated
ould sit
by its
untains
» rising
"ff and
ic spir-
ing the
ng be.
rvhen I
loulder
roads
The
>t alto-
fruit-
ntons,
stants
ilic llhinr, wc walked to Sargnn^i, the capital of a bailliagc of the name name, belonging
to the eight aticieiit ca:itonN.
Let me here remark, that in Switzerland there arc two sorts f)f baiHi.i|,'es : the on<'
oonsihting of certain districts, into which all the nristncratical cantons are (lividcd ; and
over these a particular ufliccr, called a bailifV, is appointed by govcrnnv. iit, to wh'cli he in
accountable lor his administration ; the other sort arc territories belonging to two or more
of them, who by turns appoint a bailift*. This officer, when not restrained by the pern,
liar privilege of certain districts, has the care of the police, jurisdiction in civil and crimi
nul causes with some limitations, and enjoys a stated revenue arising in ditreient places
from certain duties and taxes. In case of exaction or mal<administration, an a|)peal
always lies from the bailiff to the cantons, to which the bailliagc belongs ; and the place,
the time, and the members who receive the apneal, are regidated with the utmost exact-
ness. With respect to this of Sargans, and tlic others belonging to the eight ancient
cantons conjointly ; at the conclusion of the general diet held aiuuially at Frauenfield in
Thurgau, the deputies of these cantons resolve themselves into a syndicate, examine the
accounts of the public revenues as delivered by the bailiils of the respective districts, and
receive and judge all appeals; in some cases finally: but in the more important causes
an appeal lies from this assembly to the superior tribunal of each canton.
We arrived late ut Wallenstadt, a town incorporated into the bailliagc of Sargans, but
enjoying several distinct privileges : it derives its existence from the passage of the
merchandise transported from Germany through the Grisons to Italy. 'I his communi-
cation occasions the frequent resort of Italian merchants ; and that language is under-
stood by many of the inhabitants. Our landlord speaks Italian, and has been very accu-
rate in his answers to my questions relating to the number of inhabitants, the govern,
meat of the town, its dependance upon the bailiff, and its privileges. Nor is this a
matter of wonder : for the innkeepers in Switzerland are mostly burghers, and are fre-
quently members of the sovereign council ; and, from the very nature of their govern,
ments, the Swiss in general are well informed of their particular constitutions. I liavt
also held a long conversation with a native of Glarus, who has furnished mc with much
information in relation to that canton, which we purpose visiting to-morrow.
JFesen, July 29.
The lake of Wallenstadt, about twelve miles in length, and two in breadth, is entirely
bounded by high mountains, except to the east and west. From this situation a breeze
generally blows from those two quarters, beginning at break of day, and continuing for
some hours ; then changes from west to east till sun-set : this breeze is very convenient
for the transportation of the merchandise. Sometimes, however, a violent north wind
rushes down from the mountains, and renders the narigation dangerous. We were
assured by the inhabitants, and by the watermen who rowed us from Wallenstadt to this
place, that the breeze above mentioned was generally constant : but we cannot attest it
from our own experience, as we set out this morning about eight, and the wind was di-
rectly contrary the whole way, blowing from west to east. The weather, it is true, W&.5
heavy, overcast, and rainy, which might cause perhaps this occasional variation.
The scenery of the lake is uncommonly wild and picturesque, and affords a perpetual
variety of beautiful and romantic scenes. On the side of Glarus, the mountains which
form its borders are chiefly cultivated; enriched with wood or fine meadows, and stud-
ded with cottages, churches, and small villages ; the Alps of Glarus rising behind, their
tops covered with snow. On the other side, for the most part, the rocks are grotesque,
craggy, inaccessible, and perpendicular : but here and there a few cultivated necks of
'.i-ii(,ir''* <.^V\,,..iL .^i.
>»i; V ;■■'.■.•;,!...
- h«k'V.„.-V«j:m,
654
COXB'I TKAVEM IK IWITZKIILANO,
land arc furmcd nt the very edge of the lake, and ut the l)ottom of these very rocks, ex-
hibiting n hcaiitifiil contr.iHt tu the hurrcniieMs ahovc and around them. NiiinlMrrlestt
wnter i'lilN, occnkioni-d hy die nulting of the hmows, fall down the Hides of the moun<
tains from n very considerable height, and with an almost inconceivable variety ; home
seeming to glide gently in circular directions : otlicrs forming ...st torrents, unci rushing
into the lake with noise and violence ; all changing their form and their position as \vc
approached or receded from them. The lake is exceedingly clear, deep, and cold, and,
as we were informed, is never frozen.
There is nothing remarkable in this place, being n small village situated almost upon
the point where the Mat issues from the lake of Wallenstadt : that little river is joined
by the I^inth, and both united fall, under the name of Limmat, into the lake of Zuric.
1 am, &(C.
LUTTICR VI.
The Canton of Olarm.
Glarus, July 29.
THE canton of (ilarus was formerly subject to the abbess of die convent of Seckin-
guenin Suabia : the people, however, enjoyed very considerable privileges and a demo-
cratical form of government, under the administration of a mayor, appointed by the
abbess, but chosen among the inhabitants. Towards the latter end of the thirteenth
century, the emperor Rodolph I, obtained the exclusive administration of justice; and
not long afterwards his son Albert, having purchased the mayoralty, which had gradually
become hereditary, re-united in his person the whole civil and judicial authority. AU
bert, and his immediate descendants the dukes of Austria, oppressed the people, and
ruled over them with i\n absolute sway. In 1350, Schvvcitz, assisted by Zuric, Lu-
cerne, Uri, and Underwalden, expelled the Austrians from the canton of Glarus, and
re-established the democracy. Glarus then entered into a perpetual alliance with its de-
liverers, and was received into the Helvetic confederacy with some restrictions, which
were not abolished until 1450. At that time it was the sixth canton, but is now the last
in rank of the eight ancient cantons, as they are called ; being so distinguished, because,
from the accession of Zug and Bern in 1352, more than a century elapsed before a new
member was admitted. These ancient cantons have also several privileges superior to
the five others ; the latter having submitted to some particular restrictions, upon their
reception into the Helvetic league.
The people of Glarus enjoyed their liberties unmolested till 1388, when the Austrians
made an irruption into the canton, with a force sufficient, as they arrogantly thought,
totally to subdue it, pillaging the country, and massacring the inhabitants. It was tnen
that three hundred and filty troops of Glarus, assisted by thirty Switzers, resisted the
whole strength of the Austrian army : the former were posted advantageously upon the
mountains, and the latter, to the number of fifteen thousand, at a village called Naefels.
In this situation the Austrians began the attiick ; but were soon compelled to retreat with
great precipitation, by a shower of stones poured upon them from the heights : in this
moment of confusion the inhabitants rushed down upon the enemy with redoubled
fury, they broke their ranks, and, after an immense slaughter, forced the remainder to
retire from the canton. Such surprising victories, gained by a handful of men against
an enemy so much superior in number (instances of which are by no means rare in the
history of Switzerland) render the wonderful combats of Marathon and Platsea, when
the Greeks repulsed the numerous hosts, of the whole Persian empire perfectly credible.
The same love of independence, the same dread of slavery, and the same attachment to
ANU IN tHR UOUNTRV OF TXr. CRilOHS.
65S
'Ics, ex.
niibrrlcw
he moiin.
|v ; M)ine
rushing
J)M us we
p')ld, and,
lost upon
J is joined
iZuric.
am, 8cc.
./«/i^ 29.
Scclcin.
a demo.
I by the
lirtecnth
cc; and
:raduaJly
ty. Al.
pic, and
ric, Lu-
us, and
^ its de.
', which
' the last
>ecau8e,
e a new
erior to
on their
Listrians
lought,
as then
ted the
•on the
"Jaefels.
it with
in this
>ubled
dcr to
p;ainst
in the
whtn
dible.
ent to
their country, animated the reHnoctive nations to the vimc deeds, of heroism : in l)oih
inntanccs victory was i'uiloucd l)y the same nlorious rfjuvrpiencrH ; for tht; Swinn, ;is
wcllas the (irtckii, uwe the rise and |)r(Hirvatiun of their lilKrtien to that nia^'nanimous
and deterniiucd valour, which prtUrs death to life tuuler the scrvilo dominalioit of an
arbitrary despot. The people still celebrate the annivtrsary of this victory, which in-
sured their independciici , and I saw near the \illagi: ofNivfels several stone n, with nu
other inscription than 1.3HU: an inscription wliieh no nture requires explatiation to an
inhabitant uf the canton, than the glorious iera of l(iMH to an Kn)j;lishman.
In the sixteenth century the reformation Mas introdnctd into this canton, but not ex*
clusively : both reli^ions are tolenitcd, and the two sects live tr)p;ether in the greatest
harmony ; an imion the more remarkable, when wc consider the fatal quarreU that
have tK'en kindled in Suit/etland on aecotnit of religions tenets, and that in Appen/.cl
the division between the two sects is distinctly marked by their inhabitin;^ difterentdis*
tricts, and living under separate governments. In several parts of this canton, the Pro.
tcstants and Catholics successively perform service in the same church ; and all the offices
of state are amicably administered by the two parties. During the present and preced-
ing century, the Protestants have increased considerably in tumiber ; and their industry,
in every branch of commerce, is greatly superior; an evident proof how much the te
nets of the Homan C\;tholic church fetters the genius, and depress the powers of exertion.
The governtnent is entirely dcmocratical : every person at the age of sixteen has a
vote in the Landsgemeind, or general assembly, which is annually held in ai\ ^\)^:i\ plain.
This assembly ratifies new laws, lays contributions, enters into alliances, declares war,
and makes peace. Tiic Landamman is the chief of the republic, and is chosen alter-
nately from the two sects; with this diftcrcnce, that the Protestant remains three years
in office, UieCatholi: only two. The manner of election is as follows: five candidates
chosen by the |x:oplt draw lots for the charge. The other great officers of state, and
the bailiffs, are taken also by lot from a certain number of candidates proposed by the
people. TJie executive power is vested in the council of rcgcrucy, composed of forty-
eight Protestants, and fifteen Catholics : each sect has its particular court of justice ;
and it is necessary that in all law-suits between two persons of difllrent religions, the per-
son having the casting voice among the five or nine judges, who arc to determine the
cause, should be of the same religion as the defendant.
Cattle, cheese, and butter, constitute the principal commerce of the canton. The
cattle are fed in summer upon the Alps : it is computed tliat ten thousand head of large
cattle, and four thousand sheep, arc pastured during that season upon the mountuiii'j be-
longing to the canton. The inhabitants also manufacture linen and muslins.
Among the exports a considerable article is slate, with which the canton abounds.
The principal quarry is in the valley of Sernft, where large slates are dug up that serve
for tables. These quarries, as I am informed by Mr. David Pennant, once furnished
Great Britain with slates for writing, or accomptants* slates ; but this trade is entirely
lost. Of late they have been prepared from the great slate quarries in Caernarvonshire,
the property of lord Penryn, and with such success, as bids fair to extend this article of
commerce over most pan of Europe.
Jult/ 30.
I am just returned to Glarus, after having made an excursion towards the extremity
ci' the canton : it is entirely enclosed by the Alps, except towards the north ; and there
is no other entrance but through this opening, which lies between the lake of Wallen-
fitadt and the mountains separating this canton from that of Schweitz. Passengers in-
'I
656
COXE S TRAVELS IM SWITZERLAM 0,
f
deed may in summer traverse these Alps to the Grisons on one side, and to Uri on the
other ; but these paths arc in winter absolutely impracticable. At the entrance above-
mentioned the canton reaches, from the banks of the Linth to the farthest extremity of
its Alps, about thirty miles ; forming a valley, which becon cs narrower as you advance,
and is scarcely more than a musket-shot in breadth at the burgh of Glarus. It after-
wards opens by degrees, and about a league from the last-mentioned burgh, is divided
by the Freyberg mountains : sit the point of this division the two rivers, Linth and
Scrnft, unite.
We continued through the largest of these vallies, which, though very narrow, is ex-
ceedingly populous. You have been at Matlock in Derbyshire, and I remember your
admiration of its beautiful and romantic situation : the scenery of this valley is of the
same cast, but infinitely more picturesque, more wild, more varied, and more sublime.
The Linth is much broader and more rapid than the Derwent, and the hillocks of the
Peak are mere mole hills to the Alps of Glarus. These stupendous chains of rocks are
absolutely perpendicular, approach one another so near, and are so high, that the sun may
be said to set, even in summer, at four in the afternoon. On each side are numbers of
those water-falls we so much admired during our passage over the lake of Wallen-
stadt ; one in particular near the village of Ruti, foamed down the steep sides of a moun-
tain, from the midst of a hanging grove of trees. I was so captivated with these enchant-
ing scenes, that I could not help stopping every moment to admire them : our guide, not
conceiving it possible that these delays could be owing to any other cause than the lazi-
ness of my horse, never failed to strike the poor beast, and continually awakened me out
of my rapturous contemplations ; it was some time before I could make him compre-
hend that I stopped by choice, and wished to continue my own pace. After having
rode about ten miles, we quitted our horses and walked. Near Lugelbach, a consi-
derable rivulet is formed by two streams bursting from the ground at the foot of a
mountain, which after a few paces unite and fall into the Linth : beside these two prin-
cipal branches, several smaller springs, and numberless little fountains, gush from the
rock. The clearness of the streams ; their rapidity and murmuring sound ; the trees
that hang over the point from whence they issue ; the rude rocks above ; the rich mea-
dows and scattered hamlets ; altogether form an assemblage of the most lively and pleas-
ing objects that ever composed a beautiful landscape.
I am informed by Mr. David Pennant, that salmons force their way annually from
the sea as high as this river, to deposit their spawn. Their progress is up the Rhine,
and out of that noble river up the Aar, and through the lake of Zuric mto the Linth,
u course of many hundred miles. They are taken in these distant parts in September
and October, and about the size of seventeen or twenty pounds weight.
We crossed the Linth several times, which rushes with all the violence of a torrent,
and came at length to an amphitheatre of mountains, where the valley ended : on our
right hand a fall more considerable than any we had yet seen, tumbling perpendicularly
over a bare rock in a large body of water ; the Alps on each side crowned with inac-
cessible forests, and covered with everlasting snow ; before us a pyramidical mountain,
bare and craggy ; and the glaciers of Glarus closing the view. Here the valley and
the habitable purt of the canton terminate. We then quitted the plain, and ascending
through a wild forest of beech and pines, continued more than an hour mounting a
very slv.ep and rugged path, till we came lo the Panten-Bruck, a bridge over the cata-
ract thiit forms the Linth, which is here called the Sand-Bach : it roars from the glacier
down the steep mountain m one unbroken fall, and, a little way before its arrival
under the bridge, works itself a subterraneous passage through the rock, where it is
m
AND IN THE COUNTRY OF THE CRISONS,
657
to Uri on the
trance above,
extremity of
you advance,
us. It after,
h, is divided
i, Linth and
wrrow, is ex-
Tiember your
lUey is of the
lore sublime.
Hocks of the
I of rocks are
i the sun may
B numbers of
: of Wallen-
's of a moun-
lese encliant-
ur guide, not
than the lazi.
cened me out
lim compre.
After having
ach, a consi-
the foot of a
se two prin-
ush from the
id ; the trees
he rich mea.
;ly and pleas-
mually from
p the Rhine,
0 the Linth,
1 September
of a torrent,
led : on our
pendicularly
d with inac.
al mountain,
e valley and
d ascending
mounting a
'er the cata-
i die glacier
; its arrival
where it is
lost only to appear again with increased violence and precipitation. The bridge is a
single arch of stone, of about seventy feet in length, thrown over a precipice of above
three hundred feet in depth. It serves as a communication with the Upper Alps, and is
the passage for the cattle which are fed there during the summer montlis ; on the other
side some goats came jumping around us, and seemed to welcome us to their dreary
habitations. These mountains are covered with a great variety of rare plants, which
made me regret, that I had not pursued my botanical studies. As I leaned upon the
parapet of the bridge, and looked down into the chasm beneath, my head almost turned
giddy with the height. The rock, down which the Sand-bach drives, is composed ol
slate. After we had continued some time admiring the sublime horror of ttie scenery,
we descended into the valley, and made a hearty meal upon some excellent bread, honc} .
butter, and milk, which a neighbouring cottage supplied. As the canton almost en-
tirely consists of rich meadows, the milk and butter are delicious, and the honey of
these mountainous countries is most exquisite. Nothing delights me so much as the
inside of a Swiss cottage : all those I have hitherto visited, convey a little image of clean-
liness, ease, and simplicity ; and must strongly impress upon the observer a most pleas-
ing conviction of the peasant's happiness.
If I had never seen these little democratical states, I could have formed no idea of
the general equality and indistinction that prevails among the hihabicants. All the
houses, like those of Appenzel, are built of wood ; large, solid, and compact, with
great penthouse roofs that hang very low, and extend beyond the area of the founda-
tion. This peculiar structure is of use to keep off the snow ; and, from its singu-
larity, accords surprisingly with the beautiful wildness of the country. The houses of
the richer inhabitants i.. the principal burghs, are of the same materials : the only dif-
ference consists in their being larger.
The police is well regulated throughout Switzerland, and even in these democratical
states liberty does not often degenerate into licentiousness ; we may except, perhaps,
the day of their general assemblies, when it is impossible to prevent some degree of
confusion in a meeting where there is scarcely any distinction of persons ; and where
ev ery peasant considers himself as equal to the first magistrate.
Our host is an open-hearted, honest Swiss : he brings his pint of wine, sits down to
table with us, and chats without the least ceremony. There is a certain forwardness of
this kind- which is insupportable, when it apparently is the effect of impertinent curiosity,
or fawning officiousness ; but the present instance of frank familiarity, arising from a
mind conscious of its natural equality, and unconstrained by arbitrary distinctions, is
highly pleasing ; as the simple demeanour of unsophisticated nature is far preferable to
the false refinements of artificial manners. I am, &c.
LETTER VII.
The abbey of EinsidUn...,Rapperschwyl.
Einsidlin, July 31.
WE could not pass through this part of the country, without making a pilgrimage
to Einsidlin, and paying our respects to this celebrated shrine : an object of much
devotion among the Catholics. Einsidlin, or Notre Dame des Hermites i'j a rich and
magnificent abbey of Benedictines in the canton of Scheiwtz, which owes its celebrity
to the miraculous image, as it is called, of the Virgin Mary. The ridiculous Uiles they
relate of the origin and aggrandizement of this abbey, are so many melancholy instances
of the credulity of the darker ages : that they are still believed in the present enlightened
VOL. V. 4 p
I
I
I
058
coke's travels in SWITZERLAND,
century, must be attributed to tlie force of habitual prejudice ; and f'\t the same timt
proves, how difficult it is for the human mind to shake off* those superstitious errors,
which it has early imbibed under the name of religion.
In the ninth century a certain hermit called Meinrad, was the first who retired to this
place, where he built a chapel, and was assassinated by robbers. But shall I tell you,
or (what is more to the purpose) will you believe me if I tell you, that this murder
was discovered by two crows, who followed the assassins to Zuric, where they were
seized and executed ? Soon after, the dead body of St. Meinrad of course works mi-
racles ; and all the world pilgrimises to his bones. The sanctity of this place being
thus established, some one (for whether it were St. Beno or St. Eberhard, or what
other saint I cannot precisely determine) constructed another chapel, which he dedicated
to the Virgin, and laid the fir^t foundation of the abbey ; having bequeathed for that
purpose his whole fortune : and the pious fund was soon considerably augmented by
subsequent donations. Shall I tell you also, that in 948, Conrad, bishop of Constance
as he was going to consecrate the chapel, heard a voice from heaven, assuring him, that
God himself had consecrated it? Whatever was its origin, and whoever was its
founder, crouds of pilgrims resort hither from all quarters to adore the Virgin, and to
present their offerings : and it is computed, that upon tiie most moderate calculation,
their number amounts yearly to 100,000. The circumjacent country was formerly a
continued forest, which since the erection of the abbey has been gradually converted
into rich pastures and beautiful meadows : and this is a miracle which the Virgin, in a
certain sense, may be truly said to have performed.
August 1.
I have just been visiting the abbey, the chapel of the Virgin, and her immense trea-
sures. The church of the abbey is a large and magnificent building, but exhibits a
remarkable s])ecimen of false taste, being loaded with bad paintings, and superfluous
ornaments. In the aisle not far from the entrance, is a small and elegant marble chapel
of the Corinthian order : this is the celebrated shrine of the Virgin, to which the pil-
grims resort. On the outside an angel supports the following inscription :
Hie est plena rcmissio peccatorum omnium a culpa ct pcena.
Over the door is a plate of silver w) \ five holes, into which I saw several persons
thrusting their fingers, and praying at he same time with great fervour : upon inquiry
I found, that the credulous people believed these holes to be the marks of God's fingers.
In the inside of this chapel is the image of the Virgin, which vies with the lady of Lo-
retto in beauty of countenance ; her face, as well as that of the child she holds in her
arms, being black. She is richly apparelled, and chang" her garment every week ;
her wardrobe consisting of fifty-two different suits.
The riches of tlie treasury are immense ; containing numberless offerings of gold,
silver, and precious stones, arranged in the most ridiculous manner ; skulls and bones
sumptuously ornamented ; whole skeletons of saints in masquerade, and ladies with ruf-
fleij, fly. caps, and splendid apparel as if dressed for a ball. What a wretched insult
upon poor human nature ! I could not help considering them with a mixture of pity and
indignation, as the ofierings of ignorance before the shrine of bigotry and superstition.
The miracles which the Virgin has wrought in this country are infinite, if we may
judge from the numerous figures of ears, eyes, legs, arms, heads, &c. represented
by those, who fancied themselves respectively cured in those several members, by the
jjower of this wonder working image.
AND IN i*H£ COUNTRY OF ritli GRISONS.
659
»me time
IS errors,
ed to this
tell you,
murder
hey were
orks mi-
ace being
or what
dedicated
for that
ented by
onstance
him, that
was its
1, and to
Iculation,
)rmerly a
;onverted
rgin, in a
August 1.
:nse trea-
xhibits a
perfluous
le chapel
\ the pil-
persons
1 inquiry
s fingers.
y of Lo-
ds in her
y week ;
of gold,
id bones
vith ruf.
d insult
pity and
Tstition.
we may
resented
by the
I was glad, however, to find in the midst of this superstitious trumpery, a good li-
brary, which contained some fine editions of the classics.
In this place there is a considerable traffic in rosaries, crosses, and little images ; and
there are rows of shops, where nothing is to be purchased but these necessary appenda-
ges of the Roman Catholic religion: it has all the appearance of a fair. There is also a
room in the abbey, where the same kind of merchandise is exposed to sale ; and one of
the friars attends to receive your money, and very gravely assures you, that the several
articles have touched the sacred image. Among other curiosities of this kind, I pur-
chased two ribbands, for two pence each, with the following inscription upon them: Ce.
Ruban cntier, est lalongueur;jusqu'au trait est I'epaisscur, de I'imagc dc Notre Dame
des Hcrmites. II a touche I'image miraclueuse.
This abbey is very rich, and has considerable revenues in the canton of Zuric. The
abbot, who is titular prince of the German empire, is elected by sixty Benedictines, that
form the chapter.*
As I walked to this celebrated convent, I found the whole way furnished with stalls,
provided with cakes, whey, and other refreshments for the numerous pilgrims then on
their road. I saw several hundreds, in groups of different numbers. Some consisted
of a whole parish, attended by their spiritual pastor. More than once I observed some
grievous sinner driven from the flock, and walking at a distance counting his beads,
bare-footed and bare-headed, doing full penance for his crimes. I also saw several bevies
of merry damsels, who seemed to enjoy the pilgrimage as much as Welsh lasses relish
a wake. They often turned into the little chapels which lay open on the way, and wan-
tonly sprinkled each other with holy water.
This day's journey reminded me of Chaucer's Tales, in which he exactly describes
this pilgrimage, in his account of that to the shrine of St. Thomas of Canterbury :
■ ■ From every place the pious ramblers stray,
■' ■ .'■ ' ..' But most to good Einsidlin bend their way :
There at the martyr's shrine, a cure they find
For each sick body, and each love-sick mind.
Rapperschwyl, August 2.
The evening, yesterday, being fine and cool, I walked from Linsidlin to this place.
After we had ascended about three miles, a view of the Uike of Zuric, and of the ad-
jacent countrj', opened upon us at once. The prospect was extensive and beautiful :
the solemn stillness of the evening, the calmness of the laKe, and the tints of the setting
sun, which glowed around the horizon, very much improved its charms. When we
arrived at the lake the moon began to rise ; and, throwing its beams across the water,
formed another scene, more mild indeed, but not less affecting. We then crossed the
bridge of Rapperschwyl, built over the narrowest part of the lake : it measured near
1700 paces. The town is pleasantly situated upon a neck of land or promontory. It
* On the 2d of May 1798, a French column, under the command of general Tresinet, after defeat-
ing the Swiss peasants on the borders of the lake of Zuric, and pillaging and burning several villages,
arrived at Einsidlin. They found the abbey deserted by all the monks except one, and stripped of all
its treasures. The image of the Virgin was sent to Paris as a companion to that of Loretto, and ge-
neral Schawembourg ordered the abbey to be instantly demolished in his presence. Planta, p. 442.
The demolition of this building was announced to the new Helvetic diet assembled at Arau, and is
thus recordedin the new annals of Switzerland :
" Citizen Haas informed the assembly, that general Schawembourg had resolved to destroy the con-
vent of Einsidlin, and to preserve only such buildings as were necessary for the purposes of agricul-
ture ; that no vestige of that den of fanaticism and superstition should remain." Moniteur, 3 Prairial,
PAn. 6.
4 p 2
660
COXE*l TRAVELS IN SWITZERLAND,
formerly threw itself under the protection of Uri, Schweitz, Undcrwalden, and Glarus,
with a reserve of all its privileges : but these cantons, shamefully oppressing the inha-
bitants, and encroaching upon their liberties, Ziiric and Bern took possession of the town
in 1712, and restored its ancient immunities. From that period Rapperschwyl has con*
tinned under the protection of Zuric, Bern, and Glarus; the iucter having preserved its
right by its neutrality. By this treaty the town having recovered iis former prerogatives,
the inhabitants, in testimony of their gratitude, placed the following inscription over the
gates : Amicis Tutoribus floret libertas.
This small republic is governed by a great and little cotmcil, consisting of forty 'eight
members. The town contains two hundred burghers, and about a thousand inhabitants,
all Catholics. Its territory is about a league in circumference, and comprehends three
parishes. Yours, &c.
LETTER VIII.
Town and Canton of Zuric.
Zuricj August 3.
YESTERDAY we dined luxuriously with the Capuchin friars at Rapperschwyl, who
seldom treat their guests in so sumptuous a manner. It was one of their great feast-
days ; and they regaled us with every variety of fish, with which the lake and the neigh-
bourii.g rivers abound. The convent stands upon the edge of the water, and commands
an agreeable prospect : the library is by far the pleasantest apartment, though not the
most frequented. The cells of the monks are small, and yet not inconvenient ; but
cleanliness does not seem to constitute any part of their moral or religious observances.
Indeed the very habit of the order is ill calculated for that purpose, as they wear no shirt
or stockings, and are clothed in a coarse kind of brown drugget robe, which trails upon
the ground. Strange idea of sanctity 1 as if dirt could be acceptable to the Deity. I
I reflected with particular satisfaction, that I was not bom a member of the Roman Ca>
tholic church ; as perhaps the commands of a parent, a sudden disappointment, or a
momentar}' lit of enthusiasm, might have sent me to a convent of Capuchins, and have
wedded me to dirt and superstition for life.
After dinner we took leave of our hosts, and departed for Zuric by water : the lake is
near ten leagues in length, and one in breadth. This body of water is of an oblong form,
and not near so large as that of Constance ; but the borders are studded more thickly
with villages and towns. The adjacent country is finely cultivated and well peopled;
and the southern part of the lake appears bounded with the high stupendous mountains
of Schweitz and Glarus : the scenery is picturesque, lively, and diversified.
Zuric was formerly an imperial city, and obtaiiied from the emperor Frederick II,
very considerable privileges ; which were acknowledged and augmented by several of
his successors. The civil war between the magistrates and the people, in 1335, nearly
reduced the city to ruins ; but the former being banished, the citizens, in 1337, estab*
lishtd a new form of government, which was confirmed by the emperor Louis of Bava-
ria. The exiles, after several fruitless attempts, were at length re-admitted ; but, en^
gaging in a conspiracy against the citizens, v/ere discovered and put to death. In con>
sequence of this execution, the nobles in the neighbourhood took up arms; and Zuric,.
after having^ ineflectually applied for assistance to the emperor Charles IV, formed an
alliance with Lucerne, Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden, and was admitted a member
of their confederacy. This event happened in the year 1351, The four cantons
AND IN THE COUNTRY Of THE CIIISON^.
661
id Glarus,
1^ the inha-
>f the town
1 has con.
jserved its
frogatives,
n over the
brty-eight
habitants,
ends three
August 3.
iwyl, who
reat feast-
the neigh-
:ommaiiMJs
h not the
lient; but
iervances.
ar no shirt
rails upon
Deity. I
oman Ca-
»ent, or a
and have
the lake is
ong form,
re thickly
peopled;
nountains
lerick II,
several of
5, nearly
7, estab*
of Bava-
but, en-
In con-
id Zuric,,
rnied an
member
cantons
yielded the pre>eminence to Zuric : a privilege it enjoys at present ; being the first can<
ton in rank, and the most considerable in extent both of territory and power next to Bern.
In the same year Zuric was assisted bv the four cantons against Albert, duke of Austria,
who besieged the town, and was repulsed w ith great loss.
Zuric was the first town in Switzerland, that separated from the church of Rome ;
being converted by the arguments of Zuingle. Of all the reformers (the mild and ele-
gant Mclancthon alone excepted) Zuingle seems to merit peculiar esteem : he possessed,
to a great degree, that spirit of meekness, moderation, and charity, which are the cha-
racteristics of true Christiimity ; and amid all the disputes between the Lutherans and the
reformed churches, was a constant advocate for peace and reconciliation. He was per-
fectly free from narrow bigotry which makes no distinction between points of the merest
indifference, and objects of the greatest importance ; as from overbearing pride, which,
while it violently condemns the opinions of others, assumes infallibility with respect to
its own. In a word, it was his opinion, that, provided Christians agree in the most es-
sential articles ; they ought meekly to bear with any difference upon subjects less un-
controvertible, and which do not influence morals.
Ulric Zuingle was born Jan. 1, 1484, at Wildhauscn, a small village in theTocken-
burgh ; and, in the twentieth year of his age, was appointed minister of Glarus. Even
before the publication of the sale of indulgences by Lvo X, which was the more imme-
diate cause of the reformation, Zuingle exposed at Glarus several superstitions of the
church of Rome ; and gained additional credit, by preaching at Einsidlin against vows,
Eilgrimages, and offerings. After the publication of the sale of indulgences, while
lUther was undermining the fabric of papal authority in Germany, Zuingle was no less
successful in Switzerland. By his zeal and intrepidity, and by the irresistible force of
truth, he gained so many converts at Zuric (where he had been invited to preach) that in
1524 the magistrates abolished the mass, and other Catholic ceremonies, and introduced
the reformed religion. Zuingle had taken such wise precautions, and acted with such
extreme moderation, that the disputes between the two sects were carried on with more
temper than is usual in religious controversies. The change which had been some
time in agitation, was finally determined by a plurality of voices in the sovereign coun-
cil, and the people readily and cheerfully obeyed the decision of their magistrates. The
example of Zuric was soon followed by Bern, Schafi'hausen, Basle, with part of Glarus
and Appenzcl ; the other cantons continuing to adhere to the religion of their ancestors.
From tins period the two persuasions have been established in Switzerland ; but that
harmony, which had hitherto subsisted between the cantons, has been occasionally inter-
rupted. In 1531, religious disputes broke out with so much violence and animosity,
as to occasion a civil war; in which the Protestants were defeated, and Zuingle lost his
life, in the forty-eighth year of his age, at the battle jf Cappel.* Since that period, two
other religious wars have been kindled ; one in 1656, in which the Catholics gained
the advantage ; and the other in 1712, when the Protestants proved victorious. The
peace of Arau, which terminated these unhappy disputes, has, it is to be hoped, finally
composed all religious animosities. By that treaty, which may.be considered as a code
of toleration among the Swiss ; the treatment of the Protestants and Catholics in the
tommon bailliages is regulated. The first article stipulates, that in all the provinces,
. • It has been urged against Zuingle, as a proof of his persecuting principles, that he was person-
ally engaged in this war against the Catholics. To this it may be answered, that he had used every
argument in his power to reconcile the contending parties ; that he even openly arraigned the impa-
Uent and turbulent zeivl of his fellow-citizens ; that he acted in obedience to one of the fundamental
laws oCthe republic ; and that he accompanied the army by the express command of the magi3tratQ».
'i
¥"
J
662
COXE S TRAVELS IS SWITZERLAND,
which are subject to cantons of different religion, there shall be a perfect equality be-
tween the two sects, and that they shall both enjoy the same privileges: to which is
added an express prohibition to each party, not to use any terms of raillery or contempt,
in speaking ol their respective modes of worship.
'I'hecanionof Zuric abounds in corn, wine, and excellent pasture. The proportion
of fjrain to the other productions of the earth, will ap; ar from the following calcula-
tion. There arc 217,424* acres in tillage, 14,466 in vines, 94,553 in meadows, 42,549
in pasturage, and 103,778 in forest.
As sufiieient om is not produced for the interior consumption, the deficiency is
chicHy supplicu aom Suabia; and, to prevent a scarcity of this material article, a pub-
lic grijnary is maintained at the expence of government. The grain is retailed at the
conuuon price ; but, in seasons of scarcity, is sold considerably cheaper than it can be
purchased at the market. The good efl'ects of this establislnncnt appeared at the dearth
in 1771 ; when, on account t)f ilie dearness of corn, a pound ot bread was sold for ten
pence, the same (pKuuity \\as delivered by gwernment for four pence. The wine made
in the canton forms an i!iconsideral)le olyeet of foreign commerce ; the greatest part be-
ing consumed in the coui.try. In 1771) were exjiorted 10,029 casks, each containing
180 bottles; in 1780, 24,568, and in 1781, U,.>54.
The canton contained, in 1784, 174,572 souls, including 10,500 in the capital. This
large population, in proportion to the si;je of tiie canton, is owing to the trade of Zuric ;
as at least tv/o-thirds of the inhabitants derive their livelihood by spinning thread and
silk, and making linen lor the manufactures of the town.
The sovereign power resides exclusively in the burgesses of the town, consisting of
about two thousand.
Here I cannot but remark, that a narrow spirit of policy reigns throughout most of the
states in Switzerland: as they seldom confer the burghership. This rule, however, in
some of the republics, is less scrupulously observed than in others ; but in Zuric a new
citizen has not been admitted during these last hundred and fifty yearsk
It is curious to trace the restrictions which have been gradually laid on granting the
burghership. On the 26th of May, 1540, the sovereign council issued a decree, im-
porting that whosoever was desirous of becoming a citizen, should be obliged to pro-
duce a certificate of good behaviour, properly witnessed and signed, and bearing the
seal of tlie magistrates of the place in which he formerly resided; and should, before he
was enrolled among the burghers, pay ten florins, near 11. if a native of Switzerland,
and double that sum if a stranger. An inhabitant of the town or canton was taxed only
at three florins for his admission ; and all artists and persons of learning, necessary or
useful to the state, were to be received gratis. In 1549, it was enacted, that the burgh-
ership should be refused to all who were not possessed of considerable riches, or who
did not introduce new arts and trades. This decree was repeatedly confirmed ; and, in
1593, it was added, that a new citizen should not be entitled to a share in the govern-
nentbutonthe tbllowing conditions : If an inhabitant of the canton, he must have re-
ided in the town during ten years ; if a native of Switzerland, twenty ; if a foreigner,
i( :ty ; and he must build or purchase a house within the walls of Zuric : this last article
was repealed in 1612. lu 1597, the reception of new citizens was suspended for the first
time, but only for two years; and in 1610, the admission- money was augmented.
• Of 36,000 square feet each.
AKD IN THE COUNTHY OF THE cmSONS.
66S
lality be-
nluch is
;<jntempt,
roportion
calculu.
s, 42,549
ciency is
c, a pub-
cd at the
it can be
he dearth
d for ten
ine made
t part be-
iiitaining
al. This
f Zuric ;
read and
iisting of
)stofthe
vever, in
ic a new
iting the
ree, im-
I to pro-
iring the
efore he
zerland,
ed only
ssary or
burgh-
or who
and, in
jovern-
lave re-
eigner,
article
he first
In the commencement of the ITili century, government refused to receive into the
sovereign council the noble families of Orel, Pefl'aluzz, and Muralt, which, in ISS/i
and 1557, had quitted Italy and settled at Zuric : these families, partly on account of
having embraced the reformed religion, and partly as persons of capacity and industry,
had been received into the burghership, but rendered incapable of (tijoyinga share in
the administration of aftairs. This exclusion, again confirmed in 1592, was revoked
in 1673, in favour only of the family of Muralt, which exception was obtained by con-
siderable largesses. In 1G74, the family of Orel offered to disburse ten thousand florins
towards the expence of repairing the fortifications, on condition of being rendered
capable of election into the sovereign council : their petition was then refused, but
J;enerousIy granted in 1679, without the smallest equivalent. Finally, on the 7th ol
anuary, 1661, the council determined to make no mure burghers ; which resolution
has been invariably I'ollowed.
The burghers, beside the advantage of electing their magistrates, and of aspiring to
the administration of affairs, enjoy the sole* right of commerce ; all strangers, and
even subjects, being excluded Irom establishing manufactures in the city, or in any part
of the canton.
* The narrow principle of commercial monopoly, which confined trade to the burpjhers of Ziiiic, ex-
cited a spirit of disalfcction among the subjuctH, and particularly the populous districts on the borders
of the lake, who overlooked the advantages which they enjoyed from a mild and ccjuituble government
in this partial grievance. To the effects of this principle may be attributed the feeble conduct of this
canton on the aggression of the French. The magistrates foresaw the designs of the French rulers
to subjugate Switzerland, and were willing to co-operate with Uern in defence of Helvetic indepen-
dence ; but their efforts were defeated by tiie opposition of tiieborder:^ of the lake, who instituted com-
mittees of reform, and seut deputies to Paris. Hence all the proposals of government to supply the
contingent of men for the relief of Bern, were answered by counter-proposals to reform the constitu-
tion. A length the supreme council of Zuric, anxious to conciliate their subjects, and apprehensive
of the progress of tlie French anns, mad'- some concessions, which only served as a pretext for new de-
mands. At each oitler issued by government for a general armament, new privileges were extorted,
until the supreme council committed the charge of new-modelling the state to a convention of one hun-
dred persons selected from different ranks. This connnitte drew up articles of a new constituiiou,
which were ratified by the councils and the whole body of burghers ; and the old magistracy was in-
vested with the feeble authority of a provisional government.
But even this innovation did not product the desired effect: for when the inagisiracy, in conjunc-
tion with the convention, attempted to cull forth the contingent of the canton, a small and dispirited
number obeyed the summons, and only 1500 men, from a canton whose population amounted to
170,000, marched against the French. These troops were dispirited, uncertain how to act, and, dis-
tracted by the wavering counsels of Bern, did not take the field ; but, on the capitidation of Bern, sur-
rendered, at Frinisberg, to a body of French troops : two companies were plundered ; but the renuiin-
der were permitted to continue their march to their capital, with all the honours of war.
A general panic now spread among the inhabitants ol Zuric ; reports prevailed, that on one side a
corps of French were preparing to invade the canton, and on the other a large body of the subjects in
a state of insurrection were marching ag..inst the capital A hasty accommodation was arranged between
the two parties ; the iidiubitants took up arms, and prepared to defend the place
Fortunately these reportS proved to be fallacious; for a negotiation was opened with the insurgents,
who had erected themselves into an assembly of the people, with central and provisional committees;
and after a few conferences an acconnnodution was effected. A garrison of loOO militia was admitted
into the town ; the provisional government was dissolved; a national assembly convoked; the ma-
gistrates deposited their authority into the hands of the free and sovereign people ; anew provisional
regency was established ; a. tree of liberty planted, with the inscription, " The brethrei^ of the town
and country are united ;" and a deputation, \ w li the peace-offering of the new constitution, was sent
to the French generals, to implore the protection of France, and to request that no foreign troops
might enter their territories.
The French generals accepted the submissionof Zuric, but inundated the canton with troops. Fur-
ther alterations were made by the provisional government; and on Jie 21st of M*irch the national,
assembly acceded to the new organization of the Helvetic constitution.
It
n6i
COX£*S TRAVKL8 IN SV/ITZEIIL AND,
l"f
Ths burghers of Zuric arc divided into thirteen tribes ; one of which is called Cons-
tnficl, or the tribe of nobles, although at present not ubsoUitcly confined to persons of
that description : it enjoys the nrivile^* of (giving eighteen members to the sovereign
council, and six to the senate, wnereus each of the other tribes only supply twelve to the
former, and six to the latter.
The legislative authority is vested by the burj^hers in the sovereign council of two
hundred ; consisting, however, of two hundred and twelve members drawn from the
thirteen tribes, and comprising the senate or little council. This* senate, composed
of fifty nicmbers including the two burgomasters, has jurisdiction in all causes civil artd
criminal : in civil cases, when the d'JiPund is of a certain importance, an appeal lies to
the council of two hundred : but in criminal affairs, their sentence is final, and, when
once passed, there is no reversal or mitigation. An excellent maxim ! provided the
judges are cautious and circumspect, and the laws mild : for there is no greater encou-
ragement to the commission of crimes, than the frequency of pardons. Such an insti-
tution, however, ought necessarily to exclude severity of punishment ; and could never
be admitted in a state, where by the letter of the law the same punishment is inflicted
upon a sheep-stealerasupona parricide.
It is to be regretted, tliat in this republic, as in most other states of Switzeriand,
there is no precise code of criminal law. The Caroline, or code of Charles V, is osten.
sibly followed ; but on account of its obsolete usages and extreme severity, the sen-
tence is ultimately left to the discretion of the magistrates. For notwithstanding the
most perfect integrity, and upright intentions, yet it is hardly possible to suppose, that
party, friendship, connections, and family, should not frequently nifluence the judges
and occasion partial proceedings. It would perhaps well become the wisdom of this
enlightened and equitable government to form a penal code, and to ascertain with pre-
cision the punishment for each ofience. The example of such a republic would in
time be followed by the remaining cantons and states ot Switzerland; and posterity would
bless the name of Zuric for having occasioned the introduction of more settled principles
in the criminal courts of justice. Some late decisions have rendered this arrangement
more obviously necessary. Several persons disordered in their understandings com-
mitted suicide ; and, although the circumstances of the crime were nearly sim ilar, yet
the most opposite sentences were pronounced on these occasions ; so that the familifs
of those to whom a greater degree of severity was shewn, were necessarily more dis-
tressed on account of the mildness manifested to the others.
Every judge of delieucy and honour would undoubtedly experience great satisfaction
to find himself restrained by precise laws from listening to solicitations from friends and
party, and from being biassed by those feelings, of which it is almost impossible to be
divested.
The power of the senate, considered in a collective capacity, is very considerable :
it judges finally in all criminal causes, has the care of the police, and supplies the prin-
cipal magistrates. But, as too great a power of individuals is dangerous in a republic,
the members of this assembly are liable to be changed, and a revision or confirmation
is annually made, in some instances by the sovereign council, in others by the parti-
cular tribes to which the senators belong. This annual revision is a great check to mal-
* Formerly the senate was separated into two equal divisions, which alternately administered the
ofiice during six months ; and although tlicsc divisions still continue, yet for some time past they have
rc-united and acted together.
AND IM THE COlTNTnY OF THE OHISONa.
665
^ Cons>
rsons of
avcrcign
c to the
of two
rom the
)mposed
civil and
al lies to
id, when
ided the
encou-
an insti-
Id never
inflicted
zerland,
is osten-
the sen-
ling the
3se, that
J judges
I of this
ith pre-
ould ia
y would
•inciples
igement
js com-
ilar, yet
familifs
ore dis-
^faction
ids and
e to be
erable :
B prin-
public,
matioii
parti,
o mal-
rcdthe
cyhavc
administration, and at the same time prevents the senate from gaining so grc;it an in
fluence as to be detrimental to the liberties of the pcuplc. A burgher is (|nalincd tu
vote at twenty ; is eligible into the Sovereign Council at thirty ; and into the Senate at
thirty-five, liy these wise regulations, a man must have formed sotne experience in
public affairs, before he is capable of holding an important charge. The revenues of
government, diough not exceeding 65,0001. per ann. are mure than proportiunatc to the
expences ; which are regulated with the strictest ceconomy. The state is not only with-
out debts, but an annual saving is deposited in the public treasury, for a resort upon
any sudden emergency. From this fund government supported the whole cxpencf
of the war, in 1712, against the Catholic cantons, without imposing any additional
tax.
The canton of Zuric is divided into districts or bailliagcs, which are governed by
bailiffs nominated by the Sovereign Council. These bailifls, excepting those of Kyburgh
and Groningen, cannot pass capital sentence, or order torture. They can arrest and
interrogate the delinquent, and punish small misdemeanors by whipping, or banishment
from the bailliage. In capital cases they examine, make out the verbal process, and
send the felon to Zuric for further trial. On inquiring into the state of criminal juris-
prudence, I learned with satisfaction, that the torture had not been inflicted in the
capital for those last nine years ; which may be presumed to be a prelude to its tot;d abo-
lition ; but it is much to be regretted, that whipping, which is a species of torture, is
not unfrequently applied, in order to force confession, both in Zuric and in the bailliagcs ;
an abuse of justice repugnant to the wisdom of so enlightened a government.
The city of Zuric stands at the northern extremity of the lake, and occupies both
sides of the rapid and transparent Limmat. The environs are extremely delightful ;
an amphitheatre of hills gradually sloping to the borders of the water, enriched with
pasture and wines ; dotted with innumerable villas, cottages, and hamlets ; and backed
on the west by the Utliberg, a bold and gloomy ridge stretching to\vards the Albis, and
that chain of mountains which rises gradually to the Alps.
The town is divided into two parts ; the old part, surrounded with the same ancient
batUements and towers which existed in the thirteenth century, and the suburbs which
are strengthened by fortifications in the modern style, but too extensive. The ditches,
instead of being filled with stagnant water, arc mostly supplied with running streams.
The public walk is pleasantly situated in a lawn, at the junction of the Limmat and the
Sil, an impetuous and turbid torrent, which descends from the mountains of Einsidlin :
two rows of lime-trees planted by the side of the Limmat, and following its serpentine
direction, afford an agreeable shade in die heat of summer. The inhabitants arc very
industrious ; and carry on with success several manufactures : the principal are those of
linens and cottons, muslins, and silk handkerchiefs. The manufactures do not in ge-
neral dwell within the walls ; but the materials are mostly prepared, and the work is
completed in the adjacent districts. For this reason Zuric does not exhibit the activity
and numbers of a great commercial city. The environs, on the contrary, are so ex-
tremely populous, that perhaps few districts in the neighbourhood of a town, whose
population scarcely exceeds ten thousand inhabitants, contain within so small a com-
pass so many souls. The streets are mostly narrow ; the houses and public buildings
accord more with plainness and convenience, than with tl e elegance and splendour of a
capital.
The town contained, in 1780, 10,559 souls, in the following proportions: 2583
male burghers, 3464 female burghers ; 860 foreign clerks, 250 foreigners ; 372 male
inhabitants, 444 female inhabitants ; 223 men-servants, 1734 maid servants ; and 629
VOL. V, 4 q_
mm
660
COXI'S TRAVlLt IN SV/ ITZIHLANfl,
patients in the hnspitul. The* gradual cU-crcasc of the population in the town, which
driscit Irom the clifhculty of uljtaining the burghcrship, will ap|)car from the following
t(ibk :
1357
1756
1762
1769
1780
10,559
12,375
11,102
10,616
10,574
The increase ot luxury and opulence will appear from coubidering that, in 1357,
tlic number of men-servants amounted to only 84, and of muid-servants to 263 ;
whereas, in 1780, the former were 223, and the latter 1734; or near a fiillh of the
whole population.
The manners of tl'c inhabitants are in general simple, and may perhaps in these
times be esteemed aMtitpiated. Dinner is usually served at twelve : in the afternoon the
gentlemen assemble in clubs or small societies, in the town during winter, and at their
respective villas in summer. They fiecjuently smoke, and partake of wine, fruit,
cakes, and other refreshments. The women, for the most jma employed in their do-
mestic occupations, or devoted to the improvement of their children, are not fond of
visiting. When they go out, they generally assemble in separate coteries, to which
only a few men, and those chiefly the nearest relations, are admitted : many of the ladies
indeed, from a consciousness of their provincial accent, and a difficulty of expressing
themselves in French, seldom make their appearance when stangers are received. It
has more than once happened to me, that on being shewn into the apartment wherein
the ladies were assembled, the master of the house has taken me by the hand, and led
zne into another room, where he would have detained me, if I had not requested to be
reconducted to the ladies. This reserve begins greatly to abate, and to give place to a
more sociable intercourse. Such, however, is the prevalence of national habit, that a
few families, which form a more agreeable mixture of company are considered as difler-
ing from the established customs, and are still known by the name of the French Society.
Sumptuary laws, as well as those against immorality, arc well observed. The former
indeed may exist, and be carried into execution even among a people much corrupted ;
for it may be the policy of government to enforce their observance. But the severest
penalties will not be sufficient to prevent crimes of an immoral tendency, amidst a ge-
neral dissoluteness of manner : the popular principles can alone invigorate such laws,
and give to them their full operation. Secret crimes cannot be prevented ; but it is an
evident proof of public virtue, when open breaches of morality are discountenanced,
among their sumptuary laws, the use of a carriage in the town is prohibited to all
sorts of persons except strangers : and it is almost inconceivable that, in a place so com-
mercial and wealthy, luxury should so little prevail.
The militia of the canton amounted, in 1781, to 25,718 infantry, 1025 artillery,
886 dragoons, and 406 chasseurs ; in all 28,235 effective men. Tficre is a military
chest at Zuric, estiiblished in 1683, and supported by the members of the great council,
who, instead of giving an expensive entertainment, are bound on their election or
farther promotion to pay a certain sum. From this fund, which has been considerably
augmented, 20001. was taken, in 1770, for the purpose of establishing a magazine of
uniforms and arms, which arc either distributed, or sold at a low price to the poor pea-
sants who cannot afford to purchase them at their full value ; each peasant, according
to the military laws of the canton, being obliged to possess his arms and uniform.
The arsenal is well supplied with cannon, arms, and ammunition ; and contains a
reserve of muskets for thirty thousand men. We saw there, and admired, the two-
AND IN THE COUNTRY OF THE GRISOKS.
667
'n, which
following
in 1357,
to 263;
of the
in these
rnoon the
d at their
lie, fruit,
their do-
t fond of
o which
:hc ladies
^pressinff
vcd. It
wherein
and led
ted to be
)lace to a
it, that a
is diiSer-
Society.
le former
rrupted ;
severest
1st a ge>
ch laws,
t it is an
nanced.
d to all
)0 com-
rtillery,
Tiilitarv
ouncil,
ition or
itrably
sine of
or pea-
ording
1.
tains a
e two-
handed swords nnd weighty armour of the old Swisn warriors ; as also the how nnd ar*
row with which VVillium I'ell is said to have shot the npple irom the head of his son.
This canton has a regiment and some companies in the service of France, a ri'gim«nt
in that of Holland, and some companies in tnc service of the king of Sardinia. The
king of France pa^s annually fur a regiment of fusiliers, consisting ol [202 men, 20,J48l.
The colonel receives about 8401. per ann. ; a captain 3(U)I. ; and a common soldier 71.
Thepay of a regiment of twelve companies, in the Dutch service, is 25,3771.
LKTTKU IX.
Ecclctiasticat affain,,.. State qf Literature.,,. Learned Men nf Zuric.,., Society q/' Phy-
sics,:>Semimiries.... Libraries.
IN ecclesiastical affairs the senate is supreme : the canton is divided into fourteen dis
tricts, each governed by a dean, chosen by the synod, from three candidates proposed by
the clergy of the diocese. The synod, com|)osed of the whole clergy, and several asses-
sors on the part of the little council, meets twice a yciu*. In the last century it had a
more democratical form, and exercised jurisdiction over its members: it examined cau-
ses between ecclesiastics, and between the ministers and their parishioners ; gave deci-
sions ; enjoyed the power of imprisoning, deposing and reinstating the ministers ; and
exercised an authority dangerous to the state. By degrees their exorbitant prerogatives
were annulled ; and in 170U the clergy of Zuric succeeded in the establishment of u more
aristocratical form.
The principal ministers and professors in the town constitute, in conjunction with
several magistrates and other assessors deputed by the civil power, an ecclesiastical and
academical council : to this committee the deans have recourse in all concerns which seem
to exceed their jurisdiction : it determines lesser afiliirs, and refers cases of importance
to the senate.
The fourteen deans assemble twice a year in Zuric, nnd compose a prosynode ; in
which they depute one of their own body to deliver their rc(|uisitions, or pia desideria,
first to the ecclesiastical council, and afterwards to the general Synod. The ecclesiastical
council takes their requests into deliberation, lays them before the Synod, and, if recom-
mended, they are presented by the assessors to the final decision of the senate. The
ecclesiastical benefices in this canton are extremely moderate. 'I'he best living may be
worth 1401. per ann. and the worst about 301. The salary of the canonries in the capi-
tal amounts to 1201. In general, a clergyman in the town, who has merit, is certain of
obtaining a professorship, which adds 501. or 601. per ann. to his other appointments.
The charitable establishments at Zuric are the orphan-house, which is regulated with
extreme attention and care ; an alms*house for poor Ijurghers ; an hospital for incurables,
and that for the sick of all nations, which usually contains between six and seven hun-
dred patients; and the Allmosen-Amt, or foundation fur tlie poor : this excellent insti-
tution puts out children as apprentices, and distributes money, clothes, and books of
devotion to poor persons, as well in the town as in ditil-rcnt parts of the canton, at the
recommendation of the respective ministers. In 1697 it distributed 3001.; in 1760
5,0101.; in 1770, 4,7961.; and in 1778, 5,4511. *
Among the particular institutions must not be omitted the chirurgical seminary : it
is forn;cd by voluntary subscriptions, and chicHy supported by Dr. Rlian, an eminent
physician, who reads lectures gratis, and gives the profits of a publication, culled the
4 q.2
COXI I TRAVII.S IM IWITZERLAND,
Magn/iiic of Health, towuriln niaiutaininfi; this ncminary, for the instruction of young
phyticitins and surgeons, (U stincd to settle in the country.
At Zuiii: puhlic tihication in a concern of stale, and under the immcdiute protection
or government. The oflicc of a professor gives rnnk and estimation, and is often held
by u memlnr of the senate and of the great council. The prineipat literar)' estublish*
ments for the instruction of youth arc, the Caroline College for students in divinity ;
(>oU(j^Mun) Ilumanitatis, or the college for polite literature; and the school of arts: the
tirst has twelve j)roftssors, the second two, and the last seven. The learned languages,
divinity, natural history, nuvthematics, and in short every species of polite learning, at
well asalistruse science, is taiip[ht at a small ex|K'ncc in these respective seminaries.
In conse()Ui ncc of the unren/ilted attention which, since the reformation, government
has paid to the education ofyuuih, many eminent persons have flourished in all branches
of literature ; and there is no lo\vn in Switzerland where letters are more encouraged, or
where they have been cultivated with greater success. A learned professor of Zuric
has, in a very interesting publication, displayed the important services which erudition
and science have derived from the labours of his countrymen. In these biogra|)hical
memoirs appear, among many others, the names of Zuingic and Btillingcr, Conrad Ges*
ncr, Hottinger, Sinder, Spon, Scluutzer, Heydeggcr, Ureitinger, Bodmer, Hertzel, and
Solomon Gcsner.
Of all the luminaries which Zuric, fertile in great geniuses, has ever produced, Con«
rad Gesner perhaps occupies the first place. He was born at Zuric in 1516, and died
hi 1564, in the 48th year of his age. Those who are conversant with the works of this
great scholar and naturalist, catmot repress their wonder and admiration at the amplitude
of his knowledge in every species of erudition, and the variety ol hiii discoveries in na<
tural history, which was his peculiar delight. Their wonder and admiration is still fur-
ther augmented, when they consider the gi ^^ss ignorance of the age which he helped to
enlighten, and tlie scanty succours he possessed to aid him in thu;. extending the bounds
of knowledge ; that he composed his works, and made those discoveries which would
have done honour to the most enlightened period, under the complicated evils ofpover-
ty, sickness and domestic uneasiness. A detail of his life and writings, by an author
capable of appreciating hi:i multifarious knowledge, would be a just tribute to the merits
of this prodigy of learning (Monstrum EruditioiiVs) as he is emphatically styled by
Bocrhaave.
Bodmer, born in 1698, was alive in 1776, whc«\ I first visited Switzerland ; but I
was at that time ignorant. of the German languaj^c, and unacquainted with his great
merits in reforming the taste of his contemporaries, and familiarizing them to the sub-
lime beauties of Homer and Milton. He died in 1783. I now regret that I did not
cultivate the acquaintance of a man, whom the unanimous voice of his contemporaries
deservedly style the Father of German literature ; whose just criticisms and correct judg«
ment animated the poetical genius of Klopstock, Haller, and Gesner.
I did not omit waiting upon Solomon Gesner, the celebrated author of the Death of
Abel, and of several idyls, which for their delicate and elegant simplicity are justly es-
teemed. They abound with those nice touches of exquisite sensibility, which discover
a mind warmed with the finest sentiments ; and love is represented in the chastest colour-
ing of innocence, virtue, and benevolence. Nor has he confined his subjects merely to
the passion of love : paternal aflection, and filial reverence; gratitude, humanity, and every
moral duty, is exhibited and inculcated in the most pleasing and affecting manner.
He has lor some time renounced poetry for the pencil ; and painting is at present his
favourite umusemeat. A treatise which he has published or. landscapes discovers the
AHD IN THB COUNTRY OF THK CRISOMI.
MO
of
young
ol"
rotfction
ftcu held
L'Htublivh*
tlivinity ;
arts: the
WMg, Ub
irics.
vtrumcnt
tranches
<Ki-(I, or
Ziiric
riidition
K'nmhical
iracl Gc8>
tzd, and
fd, Con-
ind died
cs of this
Mplitudc
Ls in na-
still fur- ^
iflpcd to '
c bounds
h would
>fpovcr.
1 author
ic merits
ylcd by
; but I
lis great
he sub>
did not
Jorarica
t judg-
eath of
stly es-
iscover
colour-
:rely to
J every
;r.
ent his
;rs the
elegance of h\% tastt, and the vcrtntility of his genius ; uhile his compositions in both
kiiulit prove ilu- rtsiniblancr of (he two arts, iiiul that the conceptions of the poet and of
the puiMter an- coDgcnial. His drawings in black and uhilc arc preferuble to his paint-
ingH ; lor iilthoii^h (he idvus in both are ir|ually beaiititiil or •itiblinie, the culounng is
interior tu the disign. fie has |)ul)lishcd a liaiKlsontc edition of his writings in nuurio,
in which every |xirt of the work is carried on by himself: he prints them ut his own
press ; and is at once both the drawer and engraver of the plates. It is to be lamented
that he has rcnoimced poetry; lor, while ordinary writers spring up in great plenty, au-
thors of real genius arc rare and uncommon. His drawings are seen only by u few ; l)ut
his writings are dispersed abroad, translated into every language, and will be admired
by future ages, as long as there remains a relish for true pastoral simplicity, or taste for
original composition. He is plain in his manners ; open, alfable, and obliging in his ad-
dress; and ol singular modesty, (fcsncr died of an apoplexy, March 2, 1788.
1 culled also on Mr. Lavater, a clergyman of Zuric, and celebrated physiognomist,
who has published four volumes in (juarto on that fanciful subject, illustrated with ap-
propriate engravings. This work, however, is rather a desultory collection of ob'icrva-
tiuns and conjectures, than a regular system of physiognomy. That particular passions
have a strong eflect upon particular features is evident to the most common observer;
and it nuiy be conceived, that an habitual indulgence of these passions may possibly, in
some cases, impress a distingnishiiig mark on the countenance ; but that a certain cast ot
features constantly denotes certaiu passions ; and that by contemplating the countenance,
we can infallibly"^ discover also the mental qualities, is an hypothesis liable to so many
exceptions as renders it impossible to establish a general and uniform system. But Mr.
Lnvater, like a true enthusiast, carries his theory much farther ; for he not only pretends
to discover the characters and passions by the features, complexion, form of the head,
turn of the neck,t uiul motion of the arms; but he also draws inferences of the same
kind even from the hand-writing. Indeed his system is founded upon such universal
principles, that he applies the same rules to all animated nature, extending them not
only to brutes, but even to insects. That the temper of a horse may be discovered by
his coununancc, will not p»rha[)s strike you as absurd; but did you ever hear before,
that any quality could be inl'en'cd from the physiognomy of a bee, ;mi ant, or a cock-
chafer ? While 1 give my opinion thus freely concerning Mr. Lavatcr's notions, you
will readily perceive that 1 am not one of those who arc initiated into the mysteries ol
his art.
* Mr. Lavater, however, modestly renounces pretensions to inf.illiblliiy in every casi*, tliouj^li lir
claims it in muny instances. Tliis visionary, buivntertuiaing; author,tlius closes liis preliuc : " Attlit;
moment I write this, my progress (in tiie science of physiognomy) is s\Kh, that if there arc some
physiognomies on which I can pronounce no judgment, tl)ere are, on the other hand, a great many
linen and features, on whicli I am able to decide, with a conviction of truth and evidence equal to thai
wiiich I have of my own existence."
This singular und expensive work was published both in German and French, under the author's
inspection. Its title in German is " Physiognomische Fragmcnte zur beforderung der Mcnschen-
kenniss Menschenliebe;" in French, " lissai sur la Physiognomic destine a fairc i.onnoitrc THommc
eta le faire aimer." It has likewise been pul)lished in English, under the ti'l.: jf " An Essay on Physi-
ognomy, designed to promote the Knowledge and Love of >iankind." \ cheaper edition, in four
volumes octavo, has been recently published.
t " Being on u visit to Mr. Zimmerman at Biough " says Lavater in his preface, «« we stepped to
the window to notice a military procession, when u lace, with which I was wholly unacquainted, so for-
cibly struck me, that I formed a decided judgnier.t on the case. Rellection had no share in it, for I
did not imagine that what I hod said deserved notice. Mw Zimmerman immediately asked me, with
signs of great surprise, » on what do you feund youi judgment ?' I replied, » on the turn of the neck."
670
COXE's travels in SWITZERLAND,
Mr. Lavatcr has not merely confined himself to physiognomy. He has composed
' sacred hymns and national songs, which are much esteemed for their simplicity. He
has also given to the public numerous works on sactcd subjects. I am concerned to
add, that the ingenious author extends to religion the same enthusiasm which he has
employed in his researches on physiognomy, and in his poetical compositions : the
warmth of his 'nmgination hurries him on to adopt w.iatever is most fanciful and extra-
ordinary ; to cutsttp the limits of sober reason • to be an advocate for the efficacy of ab-
solute i\iith , for inward illuminations ; supernatural visions; and the miraculous effects
of animal magnetism in the cure of disordv.rs. The insinuating address of Mr. Lavater,
the vivacity of Ms conversation, the amenity of his manners, together with the singula-
rity andanim;'.iion of his ^jtyle, have contributed more to diftusc his system and princi-
pics, than sound arguments or deep learning, which arc not to be found in his lively but
desultory compositions.*
Among the eminent men of Zuric must not be omitted Dr. Hirtzei, a learned phy-
sician, ,vho is deser\cdly styled the Swiss Plutarch; and has, among various publica-
tions, more particularly distinguished himself by the Socratc Rustique, and by the lives
of Sultzer and Heydeggcr.
Lconhard Meister, professor ofhistory and morality in the Schoolof Arts, deserves to
be mentioned among the learned men of Zuric. The versatility of his talents will be
collected from a bare catalogue of his principal works ; which are written in the German
tongue : On Fanaticism ; the History of the German Language and Literature ; Lives of
the celebrated Men of Zuric; Snihs Uiography; the most memorable Events of the
Helvetic History, in chronoloj^ical Ortlcr ; Instances of Intolerance and Fanaticism in
Switzerland ; Public Law of Swifzer'and ; History of the Town and Canton of Zuric ;
Panegyric on Bodmer ; Excursions through various Parts of Switzerland ; Ch&r\cter
of the German Poets, in chronological Order, with their Portraits ; Abridgment of
Ancient History, particularly of the Greeks, with an Introduction on the Fine Arts and
l)olite LiteraUuc. In all his writings (he judicious author has displayed great zeal for
the promotion of learning, correctness of taste, liberality of sentiment, and much historical
and biographical knowledge. But in his observations on i:inaticism and intolerance he
has treated those subjects in a nev,' light : he has illustrated their dreadful effects on
government and civil society by historical events, and in a political view ; he has ap-
pealed from theory to experience, and exemphfied questionable arguments by unan.
• It was iicttural to inuiginc, from tlic cntluisiusm of his character, that Lavater would become an
advocate for the specious system of French equality. At a distance, he hailed the dawn of liberty;
but Ivi no sooner felt its nearer approach, than he became one of its most inveterate enemies. He
found from experience, that the plausii)ic terms nf emaiicipation, liberty, and equality, were used te
sanction pillage, oppression, and di spotism. While his country was yet suffering under the calami-
ties of French brotherhood, he published his celebrated Philippic against the French Directory,
which he dated "the first year of Helvetic slavery." In this animated apostrophe, after inveighing'
against the perfidy and despotism of tiie Freuch, he pays a due tribute of applause '.o the mild admin-
istration of tiie ancient vepublic, the remembrance of which the pressure of French despotism render-
ed more 'indearing.
" We Piow imagined that we had accomplished all your arbitrary mandates, atid that no troops
should enter our territories. Vain hope 1 you came with an armed lorce, which yju quartered upon
our citizj 1', and peasants. You drained our unhappy country ; and to crown our humiliation, you im-
posed a c>"iiribuuori of three millions of livres upon our sen>ilorial families ; the families who for ages
had constitulijnally held the reins of government, and held them without any imputation of abuse or
pcv,uhition, certainly without extortion ; who made no struggle to mountain the exclusive authority
our constitution had ^ ested in tliem, and against whom, therefore, you could nol alledtje any well-
founded charge The liberty you conferred on us, in return for all these exactions, was the privic
lege (jf parting ultimately with our inestimable freedom." •
AND IN THE COUNTRY OF THE GRISONS.
671
s composed
>licity. He
:oncerned to
hich he has
sitions: the
il and extra-
ficacy of ab-
jIous effects
4r. Lavater,
the singula-
and princi.
is lively but
arned phy-
>us publica-
by the lives
deserves to
ents will be
he German
Lives of
ents of the
laticism in
1 of Zuric ;
Ch&ricter
idgtr.iiit of
le Arts and
rat zeal for
h historical
alerance he
I effects on
he has ap-
s by unan.
1 become an
I of liberty ;
cmies. He
I'cre used to
the calami-
Directory,
inveighing-
nild udniin-
ism reiider-
t no troops
tered upon
on, youim-
iiu for ages
of ubuse or
B authority
J any well-
i the privif
svvcrable facts, in this instance, he has been no less useful in combating persecution,
than in repressing the spirit of funiuicism that prevailed among many of his countrymen,
and which is diffused by men of lively abilities and po])ular manners.*
The curiosity of the naturalist will be amply graiilitd by a view of the library and
cabinet of Mr. John Gcsner, professor of physics, and canon of the cathedral, who in-
herits the zeal 'or natunil history which characterizes his great ancestor Conrad Gesner.
His proficiency in the study of nature, and particularly his accurate skill in botany, has
been abundantly testified by the repeated acknowledgments of Haller, whum he accom-
panied in his herborising excursions through the mountains of Switzerland, and who
onfesses himself indebted to Gesner for various and important discoveries. Gcsncr's
cabinet is cxtrrmrly rich in fossils, and remarkable for the drawings of the principal
specimens of his museum ; and for numerous representations of insects admirably painted
by Schellenberg. One of the most curious parts of his collection, is a grea* botanical
work, which Haller calls vastissimum ct pulcherrimum opus ; and whic? . ' much to
be regretted, he has hitherto withheld from the public. He has exhibited, ir, eighty
tables, a thousand gencrical characters of plants, according to the Linnaen system, to.
gether with many of the sijccific characters. Tlicse tables, intended to illustrate a q;eneral
history of plants, which, as appears by his own letters to Haller, the author meditated,
were drawn and engraved by Geisler, the same person who distinguished himself by
painting the shells of Regenfuss.f
Amidst the various occupations of Gesner, botany, to which he had an early •_ nd strong
attachment, has engaged a great share of his attention ; besides two or three early pro-
ductions in this line, he began, in the year 1759, to publish a work which he has ex-
tended to eight publications, in the quarto form.
The first seven parts bear the title of Phytographia Sacra Generalis ; the remaining,
that of Phytographia Sacra Spec* \lis. In this work the author treats on philosophy, of
vegetation in general, and on the circulation of the sap through the particular parts of
plants ; on the Linnaean system against the objections of Alston ; on the uses of plants
as food to man, and gives a detail of upwards of a hundred edible kinds, with a com-
pendious account of the specific properties of each : on the medicinal uses of plants ; on
the various economical uses of vegetables, illustrating in a particular manner, among
many others, those of the palm tree, flax, and aloes. In the latter volumes of this
work, the author treats on other advantages derived to mankind from the vegetable
world. He speaks, for instance, on the nature and constituent parts of turf and peat, and
enumerates the species of bog and ftn plants, which enter into th- composition of each ;
on the kinds of shrubs proper for hedges ; on timber for building, and particularly such
trees as were used for those purposes by the ancients. In the first part, which is all
that is hitherto published, of what he names Phytographia Sacra Specialis, he has given
an account of those authors who have written on the plants of the holy scriptures, and
enters upon the history of each.
The Society of Physics owes its origin to Messrs. Heydegger, Schultetz, and John
Gesner, who first assembled in 1745, and admitted others, in order to attend a course
of lectures on natural history. Tins course was read by Gesner, professor of physics,
who so greatly excited the attention, and animated the zeal of his audience, that in a
* Since the revolution of Switzerlant), professor Mcister has published a tract, " tfeber den Gang der
PoUtischen Bcwengungen in dev Sc.luvuiz," or, " on the progress of revolutionary movements in Swit-^
zerland." This work contains many curious particulars concerning the conduct of the Swiss states, and
•f Zuric in particular, but must be read with caution, as it was plainly written under French Lnftuence,
t See Coxc's Travels into Polaad, $ic. Book VIII. chap. iv.
m
i\7'2
coxe's travels in switzerlamd,
hhort space of time the members were incrcnscd to seventy. Tlie first regular meeting
was held in 1745, in a private iiouse ; and in a few years they deserved and received
the protection of government, which granted the profits of a lottery towards establish,
ing a fund. There arc now about a hundred and twelve members : each pays on his
admittance ei>jht florins, or about seventeen shillings, and the same sum annually. Since
1757, a suite of apartments, in a house belonging to one of the tribes, has been assigned
for holding their assemblies, and for containing the library and apparatus.
The Society is divided into five departments : 1, Physics. 2, Mathematics. 3, Na-
tural History. 4, Medicine. 5, Application of Physics to Arts and Trades. But the
grand and prinrii);il olyect of the society, is the encouragement and improvement of
practical agriculture. For this purpose the members correspond with the landholders
in difterent parts of the canton ; visit various districts in rotation ; summon to Zuric
some of the I jest informed farmers ; acquaint them w"th the state of husbandry ; giving
them instructions ; oft'tr prizes for improvements in cultivation ; furnish small sums of
money to the poorer peasants : and communicate to the public the result of their in-
f ^uiries and observations.
The public library at Zuric contains about twenty-five thousand volumes, and a C ;
curious manuscripts. Among which, the following principally attracted my attentio; ,,
1, The original manuscripts of Quintilian, found in the library of St. Gallen, and from
which the first edition of that great rhetorician was printed. 2, The psalms in the
Greek tongue, written on parchment dyed of a violet colour. The letters are silver,
cxecptin'' 'he initials, which are in golden characters, and the marginal references, which
are red. It is similar to the celebrated Codex Argenteus,* in the library of Upsala. It
is supposed to have once formed part of the Codex Vaticanus, preserved in the Vatican
library at Rome : as both these manuscripts are similar, and the Roman volume is de-
ficient in the psalms. The learned Breitinger has published a dissertation on this Codex.f
3, Several manuscripts of Zuingle, which prove the indetutigable indu«t\^ of that
celebrated reformer. Among these I particularly noticed his Latin commentary on
Genesis and Isaiah, and a copy of St. Paul's Epistles from the Greek Testament, pub-
lished by Erasmus. At the end is writ en an inscription in the Greek tongue, signifying,
" Copied by Ulric Zuingle, 1415." It was presenied to the public library by Ann
Zuingle, the last survivor of his illustrious race. 4, Three Latin letters from lady
J: ifi Grey to BuUinger, in 1551, 1552, and 1553. These letters, written with her
own hand, breathe a spirit of the most unaffected piety, and prove the extraordinary
progress which this unfortunate and accomplished princess, tliough only in the six-
teenth year of her age, had made in various branches of literature. The Greek and
Hebrew quotations shew that she was well acquainted with those languages. These let-
ters, though given in several publications, yet are not printed with that accuracy, which
the relics of such a personage deserve. The library is rich in the best editions of the
classics ; and particularly in the early impressions of the fifteenth century, .' ;.' -
The library of the cathedral belonging to the Caroline College, contains several ma-
nuscripts of the reformers Bullinger, Pelican, Bibliander, and Leon Juda : particularly
the translation of the Talmud by Pelican and Bibliander, which has never been printed;
also sixty volumes of letters from Zuingle and the early reformers, with a complete in-
dex. This collection, so interesting to ecclesiastical history, was formed by Henry Hot-
tinger,J the learned author of the history of the Reformation, renowned for his ex-
* See Travels into Poland, Russia, 8cc. Book VII, chap. vi.
tDe Antiquissimo Turicensis Bibliothecae Grjeco Psalmorum L(ibro Turici. 1748 > '
i He was bom in 1620 ; and was drowned in the Limmat, 1667.
I.
AND IN THE COUNTRV OF TH£ GRISONS.
673
icetlng
.T,cived
tablish.
on his
Since
ssigntd
tensive erudition, and particularly for his profound skill in oriental literature. The
librarian pointed out an ancient munuscript of the Latin Vulgate, called Codex Carolinus,
and supposed to have been a present from Charlemagne, but withcMt foundation ; for it
is certainly of much later date, probably of the eleventh centun'. Among the rare
books is the Latin Bible, translated by Pelican, Bibliander, and Leon Juda, printed at
Zuric in 1545.
The lover of literary and ecclesiastical history will not fail to inspect the reverend
Mr. Simler's ample collection of letters, which passed between Zuingle and the other
reformers of Zuric, and their correspondents in different parts of Europe. The learned
professor proposed to print by subscription, in two volumes folio, the letters of the Eng-
lish reformers, several of which Burnet has published in his History of the Reformation,
but with many errors. Not finding, however, sufficient subscribers for so expeosive a
work, he was obliged to relinquish his plan, to the regret of all lovers of biography.
The library of M. de Heydegger, senator of Zuric, deserves the notice of the learned
traveller. The ingenious possessor inherited from his father only three thousand volumes,
which he has extended to fifteen thousand. His principal aim is c|irected to those books,
that were unknown to Maittaire, which might assist in correcting his typographical an-
nals, and in forming an accurate and connected history of printing. In this collection
are found many rare and elegant impressions by the Alduses, Juntas, Giolitos, Torzen-
tino, Stephens, Elzevirs, Cumino, Tonson, Wetstein, Buskerville, Bodoni, Barbot, and
Didot. It is particularly rich in the earliest impressions, of which there are no less than
seven hundred printed in the fifteenth century.*
... LETTER X.
Expedition along the borders of the Lakeof Zurie....lit/chtersehwyl....Isle qfUfnau....
Mapperschwyt ...Grunengtfn....Ustar...,Greiffensee.,..Excursion to Regemberg^ and
' to the summit of the Lagerberg. , ^ ,.
DURING my first tour through Switzerland, I passed too short a time at Zuric to
have an opportunity of visiting the delightful environs, which, for mild beauties of
nature, numerous population, and well-being of the peas, ntry, is scarcely surpassed by
any spot on the globe. Having, on subsequent occasions, resided longer at Zuric, I
did not omit making several excursions into various parts of the canton ; an account of
which will form the subject of the present letter.
The weather clearing up after several continued and heavy rains, on the 24th of
June, 1785, I accompanied M. de Bonstet of Bern, professor Meister, and some other
gentlemen of Zuric, in a delightful tour round the lake. We had no need of guides,
as the country was well kno^n to my companions, and we had no incumbrance of bag-
gage. Having made an early dinner, according to the custom of the place, we de-
parted at mid-day ; walked about three m'les, through vineyards and corn-fields, to
* \inong many rare books, I noted down the following : Ciceronis Oflicia. Fust et Scheiifer 1 465»
pet. lA folio. Jo. Sonuensis Cuthoiicon, folio. Aug. Vin. del. Gunther,et Zciner Reutlingen, 1649.
First edition of Petratoha Venet. Vindel de Spira, 1470. See Cat. de la Valliere, 1783. No. 3579.
First edition of Dante, C Fulginei Neumeister 1472. See la Valliere, No. 355?. Bocoacio Genen-
logia Deorum et liber de Montibiis ef. Sylvis. Venet. Vindel. de Spira, 1472 and 1473. First edition.
De Claris Mulieribus Ulma Sv. Zflner, 1473. First edition, with wooden cuts, very singular. See
Catalogue de la Valliere, No. 33 iO and 5609. Boccacio Decmnerone Venet. Gio. et Gregor. dA-Grc-
gorii fratelli, 1492, folio, wooden cuts. The Decameron translated into German about 1475, folio.
Mamontreclus Beronae p. Helian Helix, 1470, folio. This book was printed at Munster, in the cait-
ton of Lucerne, and is curious, because it is the first instance of typography in Switzerland.
VOL. V. 4 R
li
.,^
■ '■.■■•^■■■'
674
COXEV travels in SWITZERLAND,
Kussnach, a small village on the east side of the lake, where we paid a visit to a gentle-
man, and were served with tea, slices of bread and bntter, and cherries.
In 1778, Kussnach was considerably damaged by the rise of a small torrent, which
rushed down the mountains, carried away twenty-five houses, and destroyed about
sixty persons. This torrent, now only a little rill, swelled to such a degree, us to rise
ut least thirty feet above its usual level ; an increase owing to the sudden melting of the
snow on the neighbouring heights. Every assistance was instantly afforded to the
wretched inhabitants, and a collection of ^^'3000 raised in one Sunday at the diffe' ent
cliurches of Zuric : an astonishing collection for a town which does not contain 11,000
souls. ^,. '
I am indebted to professor Meistcr fur several observations* on the population, in-
dustry, and productions of Kussnach, and the neighbouring villages.
Having reposed ourselves aboi<* an hour at Kussnach, we continued our walk through
vineyards and corn-fields, somct '"^ the sloping banks of the lake, sometimes on a
small foot path formed on terraces v i level with the water ; or along narrow roads
that resemble gravel walks winding t ough pleasure grounds and parks in England.
We enjoyed, during great part of the way, the most agreeable shade from large beech
and oak, walnut and other fruit-trees, that overhang like weeping willows ; many of
which are planted almost horizontally, either stretching from the sides of the hill, or
from the margin of the water, their boughs dipping into the lake : the scattered cot-
tages, the numerous villages, the picturesque villas placed on the banks, and several
neat churches, added to the beauty of the ever-changing scenery.
Having continued our walk about three miles, we stop|)ed at a peasant's house in
Meile, who regaled us with our usual fare, milk and cherries, but would receive
*i)o recompense. Here we embarked and crossed the lake, enjoying a most agreeable
view of each border studded with villas, churches, and villages, half concealed by the
intervening trees. As we passed near a bold promontory, richly covered with wood,
we observed the sun, which was hid under a cloud, gilding the distant I wn of Rap-
* Kussnach coiituins about 1 700 souls, and the neighbouring villages are no less peopled : this as-
tonishing population in so small a compass is occasioned by the trade of the capital, which employs
many hands. The proportion between the produce of the soil, and the profits derived from working
for the manufactures, may be estimated from the follov/ing calculation : Ave parishes and two villages,
situated near the lakes of Zuric and Greiflfen, contain 8498 souls ; and comprehend only 6050 acres
of arable land, 698 of vines, and 3407 of pasture, or scarcely an acre and a quarter for each person.
Their subsistence is principally supplied by 20 1 6 looms, by means of which they prepare silk and cot-
ton for the merchants of Zuric. In these parts an acre is sold for 1 00 or 1201. whereas the same quan-
tity in the inferior part of the canton is worth only 20, or 301. The acre here mentioned contains
from 32,600 to 36,000 square feet.
In sixteen parishes, situated on the borders cf the lake, the number of inhabitants, in 1 784, were
32,581. There were 271 marriages, 1 135 births. The proportion of the marriages to the births, as
1000 to 4188; of the births to the deaths, as 1000 to 882; of the births to the living, as 1000 to 18,705}
of the deaths to the living, as 2000 to 32,5 15 ; of the males to the females, as 1000 to 1097.
I have already observed in the note (p. 663,) that these borderers of the Lke were the first to adopt
the French principles, and had a chief sliare in promoting the subjection of the canton.
During the efl'crvcscence of the revolution their grievances were exaggerated, and they were r-'tm-
pared with the African slaves in the West Indies. They were certainly excluded by the commenual
government of Zuric from some rights, which they ought to have enjoyed ; but their condition upon
the whole was extremely easy and comfortable, as sufiicicntly appeared from the flourishing state of the
country. Even general Schawcmbourg, as he sailed up the lake, and observed the borders, luxuriant
in cultivation and industry, and with every mark of prosperity, could not avoid exclaiming, <' II est
cepeadant difficile de retrouvcr ici les truces du despotisme."
In fact, these borderers had no sooner effected a change in the constitution, and obtained possession
of power, than they wished to retain it ; and, attempting to resi.7'. the aggression of the French, they
were disarmed, pillaged, and fined. v :.
AND IN THE COUNTRy OF THE CRISUNS.
675
gentle -
which
1 about
s to rise
K of the
d to the
diffe' ent
11,000
ion, in-
through
nes on a
t\v roads
ngland.
i;e beech
many of
: hill, or
;red cot-
1 several
house in
receive
igreeable
d by the
th wood,
of Rap-
1: thisaS"
I employs
n working
0 villages,
1050 acres
:h person,
k and cot-
kine quan-
1 contains
r84, were
births, as
0 18,705;
It to adopt
rere f'>m-
mmcn-.iul
Lion upon
:atc of the
luxuriant
;, " II est
ossession
nch, they
perschwyl, the hills towards Zuric silvered by a milder ray, and the sublime mountains
of Glarus rising in j^Ioomy majesty from the southern extremity of the lake.
We landed at Weddenschweil, which is agreeably situated on the west side of the
lake. It is the capital of a b!)illiage, that stretches to the limits of the cantons of Zug
and Schweitz, and was formerly an independent lordship. In 1287 it was sold by
Rodolph of Wc denschweil to the knights of Jerusalem ; and became a commandery
until 1459, when Zuric purchased it from the master of that order for 20,000 florins.
The inhabitants, having revolted in 1466, were deprived of several privileges, and par-
ticularly the criminal jurisdiction, which was transferred to the senate of Zuric. Not-
withstanding the loss of these immunities, the mildness of government is sufficiently
manifested, by the considerable increase of the population within this last century ; the
number of souls, which in 1678 consisted of only 4867, amounted in 1782 to 8183.
Near Weddenschweil, a beautiful meadow, skirted with wood, and fertilized by a
lively stream, tempted us to quit the road, and we had scarcely proceeded fifty paces
before we saw a silver rill gushing from the crevice of a rock fringed with wood. While
we were contemplating this pleasing landscape, we heard the noise of falling waters,
and caught a glimpse of a torrent tumbling from an elevated rock glistening through
the dark foliage, and richly illumined by the rays of the sun, which was concealed from
our view. Having penetrated by the side of the torrent, we saw it bursting from the
height, amid surrounding trees, fall about six feet upon a ridge, and then roll fifty feet
in mid air. The effect was peculiarly striking. Nor could we sufficiently admire the
amphitheatre of rock, the beeches suspended on its top and sides, the beams of the sun
darting on the falling waters, and the noise of the torrent contrasted with the mild and
tranquil beauties of the lake.
Our walk to Richliswick, where we passed the night, was no less agreeable than that
on the other side of the lake. The road ran sometimes through meadows, at a little
distance from the lake, sometimes close to the water, under the shade of trees scattered
by the hand of nature, in the most capricious shapes : we scarcely advanced a hundred
steps without passing a neat cottage, and meeting with peasants, who saluted us as we
'.went along ; every spot of ground is highly cultivated, and bore the appearance of indus-
,try and plenty.
' At Richliswick, which, like Weddenschweil, contains many good houses of stone,
plaistercd and white-washed, ornamented with green window- shutters, and Venetian
blinds, we found an inn with comfortable accommodations. This place is the passage
of much merchandise to difierent parts on the shores of the lake, and is greatlv resorted
to by the pilgrims, in their way to Einsidlin.* -
' Early the next morning we embarked for the isle of Ufnau. The weather was un-
'commonly fine, the lake quite still, the reflection of the white houses quivered on the
' surface of the water ; the hollows of the distant mountains seemed to be filled with a
transparent vapour, which induced me to cry out, in the language of poetry, ^, ^, ,,
;, •These once happy districts on both sides of the lake of Zuric, after an undisturbed tranquility of
^ three hundred years, became, in May 1798, the scene of devastation and carnage, in the unequal con-
l flict between the French and tlie Swiss peasants of the small cantons, who rose to defend their liber-
j ties, and, after entering Lucerne, murched in two bodies on each side of the lake, to drive the French
j. from Zuric. After an obstinate resistance against superior forces, the corps on the north side of the
lake were deieatcd with great slaughter, and Rapperschwyl stormed and pillaged. Five thousand Swiss,
.stationed near Richterschwyl, repulsed the French at the first onset, but with the aid of artillery were
at length overpowered. Their spirited resistance even extorted the applause of the French com-
mander.
4 R 2
;n
> .
■H
<S7<>
COXE's T''AVELS 1M SWITZERLAND,
*r.
. , ' " Pleasant the sun,
** When iiinton thi»(lcii(!;ltU'ul Itutd he ftprcadn .^
** His orient bcttins, on herb, tree, fruit and Howcr,
«« GliHt'ning with dcw."»
i
About a mile from Richliswick is a single house standing on a gentle nrrlivity, the
walls of which divide the canton of Zuric irom that of Schweitz, and at t!ic anvne: time
set instant bounds to that industry and population which had attracted our wonder uid
delight. ' ' -
In two hours we landed at Ufnau,' which is about an English mile in circumference
and belongs to the abbey of Einsidlin. It contains only a single house, inhabited by a
l)easanl'sKimily, two bams, a kind of tower summer-house, seated on the highest point,
a chapel never used, and a church in which mass is said only twice in the year. Within
is the tomb of St. Alderic, who built an hermitage on the island, to which he retired.
He died in 1473, and was highly revered for his supposed sanctity ; as a Latin inscription
informs us, that " he was fed with bread from heaven, and walked upon the surface of
the waters." This island is sometimes called Hutten's Island, in memory of that extra*
ordinary person, who retired and died in this obscure spot.
Hutten, descended from an illustrious family, was born at Seckenberg in Franconia,
and receiving an education suitable to his birth, prosecuted his studies with that impetu-
ous zeal which was the leading mark of his character. He passed a life of almost un-
paralleled vicissitude ; sometimes in the camp, signalized for personal courage : in uni-
versities, where he distinguished himself by various publications ; in courts, received
with respect, or driven away for insolence ; and wandering over different parts of Europe
in extreme indigence. Having, at an early period of his life, embraced the opinions of
Luther, he used both his pen and his sword in defence of the new doctrines ; was so in<
temperate in his ardour, tnat he was frequently imprisoned, and alarmed even the daring
spirit of Luther by his repeated outrag .'s. After rendering himself an object of terror
both to Lutherans and Catholics, he in vain sought repose until he found it in this se-
questered island. He expired in 1523, in the 36th year of his age : a man as remarkable
for genius and learning, as for turbulence and presumption. ' y .'.T^r- »s
The island is agreeably broken into hill and dale, is extremely fertile in pasture, pro.
duces hemp, flax, a few vines, and a small tufted wood, which overhangs the margin of
the water. It is the only island in the lake ^ Zuric, except an uninhabited rock, whicli
yields a small quantity of hay.
HaviK|g re-embarked, we soon landed at Rapperschwyl,f and continued ascending
amid hanging enclosures of pasture and corn, commanding a fine view of the lake, hills,
mountains, and Alps. Passing the little territory belonging to Rapperschwyl, we came
into the canton ofZuric, and entering a neat cottage, to inquire the road, we saw a pea-
sant teaching about thirty children to read and write. On expressing my satisfaction, I
was informed that each village has a peasant schoolmaster, either entirely or partly paid
by government ; and that in this canton there is scarcely a child who is not instructed ia
reading and writing. A little further we entered another cottage, where the mistress of
the house offered us milk and cherries, and placed upon the table nine or ten large silver
spoons.
We continued our walk through an enclosed, hilly, and well- wooded country, and
arrived about mid-day at Grunengen, a small burgh, capital of the bailliage. After
dinner we paid a visit to the bailiff", who resides in the castle, which stands on an elevated
* Milton's Paradise Lost.
t Sec Letter 7.
AND IN THE COUNTRY OP THE CRISONS.
U i
<^''vity, the
same time
'onder and
umference
ibited by a
hest point.
Within
w retired,
nscription
surface of
hat extra*
ranconia,
t impetu-
niost un-
• •• in uni-
received
f Europe
>inions of
^as so in-
le daring
of terror
i this se-
narkable
•rci pro-
argin of
:> whicd
sending
e, hills,
e came
'a pea-
:tion, I
ly paid
:tedia
nessof
silver
r. and
After
vated
rock, overlooking an extensive prosjiect; towards the south wild and romantic, towards
ihc west rich and well cultivated, and watered by a lively stream which flows from the
lake of Pfcflikon.
The hailifl' possesses considerable authority. He judges civil and criminal affairs, in
the presence of certain jury men and the under-bailiff ; but can pass sentence without
their concurrence, as neither of them enjoys a vote. He can punisli all crimes which
are not capital ; can order whipping, or even the torture, to be inflicted, when the crimi-
nal is convicted, and will not confess ; and I was greatly shocked to find that this horrid
expedient had been lately practised. Even in capital cases he can condemn to death,
provided he summons eighty jurymen from the different districts to be present at the
trial ; but as this custom is attended with much ex pence, he usually sends the culprit
to Zuric; in civil proceedings an appeal lies from his decision to the senate of Zuric.
If the bailiff abuses his power, the senate readily listens to the complaints of the op-
pressed, and would not fail to punish the unjust judge. An instance of this impartiality
occurred in 1754, when the bailiff was proved guilty of extortions, and, though son-in-
law to the burgomaster, was fined and banished from Switzerland. I learned this fact,
on observing a vacant place in the series of arms belonging to the several bailiffs, which
are painted in the hall of the castle ; those of the extortioner, which once filled this va-
cant place, had been erased by order of government. From Grunengen we pursued our
course through lane;;, fields, and enclosures along a most delightful country, aboundir'g
in vines, com, pasture, and wood. As the setting sun gradually descended below th^
horizon, we frequently looked back upon the distant Alps, the lower parts were dusky
and gloomy, and the summits,
" Arrayed with reflected purple and gold,
«« And colours dipt in heav'n."*
At the close of the evening I arrived at Ustar ; regretting that our day's journey was
concluded, and not feeling in the least fatigued with a walk of eighteen miles, from Rap-
perschwyl to Ustar ; so greatly was I delighted with the beauties of this romantic coun-
try. Ustar is a large parish, containing 3000 souls ; the wooden cottages are neat and
commodious, resembling those in the canton of Appenzel, and are dispersed in the same
manner over hills and dales.
The sun had scarcely risen before we quitted our beds, and walked to the castle of Us-
tar ; it stands boldly on an elevated rock, planted to its very summit with vines, and com-
mands a most extensive view, bounded by the Jura, the mountains of the Black Forest,
and the chain of Alps stretching from the canton of Appenzel to the confines of the Val-
lais. Below and around, the country resembled the most cultivated and enclosed parts
of England ; a small lively stream winded through an immense plain ; while the lake of
Greiften appeared like a broad river, washing the bottom of the adjacent hills.
This castle was formerly a strong fortress, and the residence of the counts of Ustar,
who held it and the district as a fief from the counts of Ravenspurgh ; and on the extinc-
tion of that house, in the middle of the fourteenth century, it was transferred to the
family of de Bonstet; was purchased, in 1552, by Zuric, and united to the bailliagc
of Greiffensee. M. de Bonstet, whom I have mentioned as one of our party, derived
great satisfaction in tracing the antiquity and history of this seat, formerly possessed by
•Milton.
■fK
,-j yhj -JW-^p; ;
;i ^
I I
67H
rOXE's TKAVELS IN SW I TZE R I. A N II,
his aiuTstors, :\n(! in ohsrrviiipj the family arms painted upon the glass windows. This
rastlc is now a private gcnilcniau's house, and belongs to Mr. Teyler of Weddcn-
^chuiil.
From Ustar we crossed the fields, and arrived at the lake of Greiffen. We walked
for some way on a Ik It of turf, along its borders, under the pendulous branches of oak,
luach, and elms. This lake is about six miles long and a mile broad ; on one side the
shores are flat or gently rising, on the other side hills richly wooded. The dearth of cot-
tages and inhabitants, in this delightful but solitary spot, formed a striking contrast with
the numerous villages we had recently quitted ; while the southern extremity of the
lake seemed almost bounded by that magniticent chain of Alps, which constantly en-
gaged our attention.
Having embarked in a small boat, we passed the village of Greiffen, pleasingly situ-
ated on a small promontory embosomed in a wood, and landed at the northern extremity
of the lake. Here I bathed, and walked on gently, ascending through fertile grounds,
delightfully planted with oak, beech, and poplars, and innumerable fruit-trees. At a
small village we stopped at the parsonage. You can scarcely form to yourself an ade-
quate idea of the neatness and simplicity which reign in these parts. The clergyman's
two daughters, about fifteen or sixteen years of age, neatly dressed, with straw hats, like
the peasant girls of the country, politely brought milk and cherries for our refreshment.
From this retreat of innocence and simplicity we ascended about a mile, then burst upon
a charming view of Zuric, the lake and environs ; and gently descending, arrived at
Zuric, quite enchanted with, this short expedition. ^
An expedition to the summit of the Lagerberg was no less agreeable than the former
excursion. I procured a guide and a horse ; but the weather proving fine, I gave the
horse to my servant, and preferred walking across the corn fields, and meadows tufted
with thickets, and enlivened by the numerous labourers employed in the harvest. In
these parts as well as the neighbouring districts, I observed with pleasure, that the oxen,
which were not yoked to the teams or ploughs, but harnessed like horses, performed
their labour with much more ease, and with greater effect. This custom has been lately
introduced into some parts of England; and all unprejudiced farmers allow its superior
advantage ; as the yoke is extremely galling, and four oxen harnessed with collars will
do as much work as six when yoked by the neck.
A few miles from Zuric, I passed through the village of Affholteren, near the
church, which is prettily situated in the middle of a large field ; skirted the small lake
Kasten, at a little distance from the picturesque ruins of Old Regensberg, and gently
ascended to New Regensberg, which stands on an elevation, at the foot of the Lager-
berg.
The counts of Regensberg were powerful barons during that period of anarchy and
confusion which distinguished the twelfth and thirteenth centuries ; they were involved in
constant wars, or rather desultory skirmishes, with the town of Zuric, until they were
finally repulsed by Rodolph of Hapsburg, then captain- general of the troops of Zuric.
On the extinction of the counts of Regensberg, in the fourteenth century, their territory
devolved to the House of Austria, and in 1409 became subject to Zuric.
The present burgh contains about 200 inhabitants, who enjoy considerable privileges :
a burgomaster, and a council of six members, form the civil court of justice, from
whose decision an appeal lies to Zuric; the criminal jurisdiction belongs to the bailiff,
who resides in the castle. This building was formerly of great strength, and frequently
defied the attacks of Zuric. The greater part of the present edifice was constructed
in the last century ; the only remains of the ancient fortress being some stone walls,
■^iMMUlHi-'"'"*'^'' '"
'■i-".i:ri- -r-o.:.^'.
ANU IN THE CO'JNTKV 01' TiiE (.KISOKU.
67i>
and a round tower, which coinmatids a distant pros|KCt. A well m the middle of the
burgh, hollowed in the rock to the depth of 210 feet, but now dry, furnished the
garrison with water during the obstinate sieges maintained before the invention of gun-
powder. Near this well is a copious fountain, supplied from a spring that risen in
the Lagerberg. The adjacent country is a most delightful iniermixlure of hill and dale.
The rock on which Regcnsberg is built, terminates m an abrupt precipice, and forms
the eastern cxtr*tmity of that vast chain of mountains known by the general name of
Jura, the branches of which are distinguished by diflerent appellations. The branch
that rises from this point is called the Lagerberg, to the suninut of which I mounted on
horseback. I passed for some way througli cultivated enclosures, and afterward*
through forests of pine, fir, and beech, until I reached the highest point, on which stands
a signal house. From this point, which overlooks the whole country, I enjoyed one
of the most extensive and uninterrupted prospects, particularly the finest distant view
of the Alps, which I had yct-seen in Switzerland.
To the north, the eye expatiates freely over the wilds of the Black Forest ; to the
east, beyond the confines of Bavaria ; towards the west, traces the branches of the
Jura extending in multifarious directions ; to the south, looks down upon the fertile
and enclosed regions in the canton of Zuric, on the lake and its populous banks, and
admires the vast expanse of country swelling from plains to acclivities, from acclivities
to hills, from hills to mountains, and terminating in those stupendous Alps,
" WIjosc hcadn touch lieavcn."
This wonderful and sublime prospect detained mc insensibly till the close of the
evening, when I descended through the dark forests that clothe the sides of the Lager-
berg ; and, filled with those pleasmg but melancholy reflections which the indescribable
beauties of nature leave upon the mind, rode slowly on, and did not arrive at Zuric
till the gloom of night had overspread the horizon.
LETTER Xr.
frinterthiir..,. Castle ofKyburg.
WINTERTHUR stands about twelve miles from Zuric ; a town which, although
situated in the canton, and under the protection of Zuric, yet retains its own laws,
has its own magistrates, and is in a great measure independent. Wintherthur \\ s for-
merly governed by its own counts, who were probably a branch of the Kyburg family,
for boin houses bore the same arms. In the fourteenth century it was possessed by
Hartman, count of Kyburg, who first surrounded it with walls ; and upon his death
devolved to his nephew Rodolph of Hapsburg. Rodolph, afterwards emperor, con-
ferred upon the inhabitants considerable privileges, for assisting him in the war in which
he was engiiged with Ottocar, king of Bohemia. It continued subject to his descen-
dants until 1424, when the inhabitants claimed the protection, and obtained the alliance,
of Zuric. In 1467, the archduke Sigismund having sold his rights to Zuric, that
canton succeeded to his prerogatives. A deputy from Zuric resides at VVinterthur, but
for no other purpose than collecting the toll, half of which belongs to Zuric.
The government is aristocratical ; the supreme power, in all things not interfering
with the claims of Zuric, resides n the great and little council. These two tribunals
united are final judges in criminal procedures, and pass sentence of death without ap-
peal. The little council is invested with the general administration of aflairs, and
determines civil causes in the first resort ; from the'-r decision an appeal lies to the
TSsr
680
COXE's travels in SWITZERLAND,
)^ent council, and in all proccsHCs between u stranger and a burgher, to the senate ot
Zuric.
Although the town is considered as independent, and only under the protection ot
the cnnton, yet Zuric eluims the righ* of restricting the inhabitants from manufactur-
ing silk, and from cbtublishing a printing press, as interfering with the natives uf Zuric.
This claim has occasioned great discontents, and giving ri:<e to much liti^^ation : and
though Zuric does not prohibit the manufacture of silk, yet by forbidding the peasants
of the canton from pre|>iiring and spinning the materials, this order amounts to u vir-
tual prohibition. A similar dispute is in agitation concerning the establishment of a
printing press at VVinterthur. The right will scarcely be controverted ; but as the
cause will be finally determined by Zuric, it remains a doubt whether that government
will be sufticiently disinterested to decide in favour of VVinterthur against its own
burgher.
In all other respects, excepting in these two articles of trade so profitable to Zuric,
the commerce of VVinterthur lies under no restraint. The principal manufactures are
muslins, printed cottons, and clolli ; some vitriol works arc carried on with consider-
able success.
The town is small and the inhabitants, who amount to about two thousand, are for the
most part remarkably industrious. The schools in this petty state are well endowed
and regulated. The public library contains a small collection of books, and a great
number of Roman coins and medals, chiefly found at Ober- Winterthur ; among the
most rare I observed a Didius Julianus and a Pertinax. Ober- Winterthur, or Upper
W^intcrthur, at present only a small village near the town, in the high road leading to
Fruenfield, is the site of the ancient Vitodorum, a Roman station, and the most con<
sideruble place in this neighbourhood. It exhibits no other remains of former conse>
quence, but the foundations of ancient walls, and the numerous Roman coins and
medals which are continually discovered. The Roman way, which once traversed
the marshes between Winterthur and Fruenfield, is no longer visible, because it forms
the foundation of the present high road.^
The castle of Kyburg, towering on the summit of an eminence overlooking Winter-
thur, is a picturesque object, remarkable in the history of this country, during the
times of confusion which preceded and followed the interregnum of the empire.
In the beginning of the twelfth century, the counts of Kyburg possessed the coun-
ties of Kyburg, Lentzburgh, and Baden ; and their territories were further increased
by the accession of Burgdorf and Thun, which fell to Ulricf in right of his wile Anne,
sister and heir of Berchtold V, duke of Zaeringen. These domains devolving, in 1273,
to Rodolph count of Hupsburg, on the death of his uncle H;irtman the elder, the last
count of Kyburg, rendered him one of the most powerful princes in these ports, and
probably opened his way to the imperial throne. Before his decease, the emperor
ceded to his son Rodolph the county of Kyburg, and his other dominions in Switzer-
land ; and, on his demise, confirmed this grant to his grandson John, the same who
assassinated his uncle, the emperor Albert,^ and was called the Parricide.
Upon the death of Albert, his sons seized and kept possession of Kyburg, and the
other hereditary domains in Switzerland, and transmitted them to their posterity. In
* Winterthur is now incorporated in the canton or department of Zuric.
t Some authors asscit that Werner, sun of Ulric, was the husband of Anne. Great confusion reign-
ed in the early history of the counta of Kyburg, until Fuesslt cleared it up. See article Kyburg in,
FucssU's. £rbeschreibung. | See Letter 14.
a '
\NI) IN THE COUNTRV OF IXt '.UI30Nr.,
681
I'l'id, iIk- impcror Siginmiind put umUr tlic hm of tin- rnip( ror FikU t'k k ilukv ni Alls
tri;i, and uriX'^'d for a sum nl' nioiuv the coimty of Kyl)iir}^ to /uiir-. In 14i2 i'
wus rcstorcd to the house of Austria, nut, in 1452, finally ceded to /uric b) Sif,'iHnnnuI,
nrchdukc of Austria, to liqnidatc a debt uhich he owid to the canton. Ironi that ti«n
it has formed a bailhage in the canton of Zuric ; bnt the title of C'oniit of Kyburp
has been always used by the house of Austria, and la still retained by Its present illu^
trious descendant Joseph the Second.
The castle of Kyburg', which stands in a romantic and wild situation, has been con
structed at diflerent periods. Part is ancient, and not improbably the same as existed
in the time of Rodolph ; althoiiffh I could not discover a date ant« rior to M24, llu
year in which it was k''""'^'*^ *" Jiuric. In an apartment which was formerly a stable,
are the portraits of all the bailiff's who have resided in the castle from the time of its
cession. The bailiff enjoys greater powers than arc usually delegated by any aristocra-
tical government ; in criminal proceedings, he is only re<juired to consult the jury of
the district, though he is not bound by their opinion, andean even inflict capital punish
ment without the necessity of referring the sentence to be confirmed by Zuric.
LKTTKR XII.
l''raueufu'hi...Of the Helvetic cot(/e</eracy.... Diets.
FROM Wintcrthur I passed to Frauenficld, a small town, or rather village, the capi
tal of Thurgau**^ containing scarcely a thousand inhabitants; and only remarkable as
the place where, since 1712, the deputies of the Swiss cantons assemble at the general
diet.
This confederacy owes its origin to the treaty contracted between Uri, Schwcitz,
and Underwalden, at the memorable revolution of 1308.t The subsequent acces-
sion of Zuric, Bern, Lucerne, Zug, and Glarus, gave strength and solidity to the
union, and a century and a half elapsed before a new member was admitted. At
length, in 1501, Friburgh and Solcure being, after much difficulty, received into the
league ; upon that occasion the eight ancient cantons entered into a covenant, called
the Convention of Stantz, by which the articles of union and mutual protection were
finally settled.:^
No change was effected by the subsequent reception of the three remaining cantons,
Basle, Schaff'hausen, andAppcnzel; as they subscribed to the same terms which Fri-
burgh and Soleure had accepted. Without entering, however, into a minute detail,
I shall endeavour in this letter, to ay before you a short view of the Helvetic confe-
deracy.
The code of public law between the combined republics of Switzerland, is founded
upon the treaty of } Sempach 1393 ; upon the convention of Stantz : and upon the
• Thurgauwasa huilliage subject to the eight ancient cantons. In the beginning of February the
people in some parts of the country rose, elected deputies, and demanded their emancipation, which
seems to have been granted to the. inner district on the 5th. The people, however, were in general
much incensed against the French, and their troops were marching to tho assistance of Bern, when
the capture was announced.
In the new division of Switzerland, Thurgau was formed into a canton, of which Frauenficld is the
capital.
t See Letter 25. \ See Letter 26,
5 This treaty, which regulates the articles of war, was contracted between the eight ancient cantons,
in conjunction with the republic of Soleure. It ordains that no Swiss soldier shall quit his ranks in
VOL, V. 4 s
/
■?«r-
68J
coxe*s riiAvr.i.8 ik iwitzerlano,
tronty ol \n,nr rntirlii(Ucl in 1712, at Aran, bctUTf n the Protestant and Catholic can-
tons. It a|)|KMri Ironi thcst scviral tnalicN, which inchidc- or enlarge those that pre-
ceded, that the Helvetic union is a |Kr|)etiial dcR naive aUiincc between the thirteen in-
dt ptiuK nt rontractinj^ powirs, to protect each other by the ir united forces aj^iinst all
foreign eneniii s. Acctjrdint^ly, if any member of the union sliould be attacked, that
particular canton has a ri(;ht to demand suceonrs from the " whole coidldtrate body ;
and in ease of war the several foree«i to be supplied by tach eantf)nare precisely specified.
It ap|)ears, however, from the stipulations to ivhieh the five cantons af^reed tliat they
do not, ill every respect, enjoy e(Mial prerogatives with the eight ancient cantons, which
reserved to themselves a right, if the (piestion for declaring war against any foreign
state should be uiumimously carried in their assembly, to require the assistance of the
live other cantons, w ithoiii assigning the motive. But the live cantons cannot commence
hostilities withoiil the consent of the confederates; and should the enemy be willing to
enter into a negotiation, the dispute must be referred to the arbitration of the eight
ancient cantons. It is further stipulated, that, in case of a rupture between the eight
cantons, the live must observe a strict neutrality.
The next essential object of the league is to preserve g>.neral peace and good order.
It is therefore covenanted, that all public discussions shall be finally settled between the
contending parties in an amicable manner; and for this purpose particular judges and
arbiters are appointed ; who shall be impowered to compose the dissentions that may har
pen to rise. To this is added a reciprocal guarantee of the 'orrns of govcrnme
established in the respective commonwealths ; for, in order to prevent internal factions,
and revolts in any of the allied cantons, it was ugn-ed by the convention of Stantz,
that, in time of rebellion, the magistracy ol such canton should be assisted by the forces
of the others. Accordingly the history of Switzerland affords many instances of pro-
tection and assistance reciprocally given between the confederates, in defence and sup-
port of the respective govermnents.
limcofactioncvinaltlioiinhlic should Ik* dangerously wounded : Nous entendons auflsi qur sinucr|u'un
h'l'Htoit bU'SHc (I) (|U('iciut' facon que ce fuitl en conibiitant ou en UHHuilunt, de Hortc qu'il seroit inutile
pour Hc deHHc-ndre ; il denu-uieru nun obstunt uussi avec ks uutres, jus(|ues u ce que lu butuille soit
expiree : ctpour cclu nu sera etttiine buyurd ct nc I'en fuscheru-t-on en su personnc n'y en son bicn
uucunement."
* Therchpectable u\ithor of tlie account of Switzerland lias fallen into a mistake in his description of
the Helvetic union ; and bis error has been adopted by the Abbe ISIably, in his Droit Public dc I'Eu-
rope; by the compilers of the Encyclopedic ; and by several other writers of distinction.
After having (>iven u description of the Helvetic union, he conctuilesthe relation us follows: "So far
arc they (the thirteen cantons) from making one body or one coniinoiiw calth, that only tiiu three old
cantons are directly allied with every one of the other twelve. There is indeed such u connection
established between them, that in case any one canton were attacked, all the other twelve would be
obliged to march to its succour; but it would be by virtue of the relation, that two cantons may have
to a third, and not of any direct alliance subsisting between every one of them. As for example :
Of the eight old cantons. Lucerne has a right of calling but live to its succour, in case of attack ;
but then some of those live have a right of calling others, with whom they are allied, though Lu-
cerne be iiot; so that ut last all must march by virtue of particular alliances, and not of any gen-
fr.donc ami;!igst them all."
The above-cited account of the Helvetic union would better have suited the league of the eight can-
tons before the convention of Stantz ; when the coixfederate states were not so absolutely kUiddirectly
\utited together as they are at present ; and their alliance did not perhaps totally exclude every treaty
of the same kind with other powers. It was only by the articles of that celebrated convention, and
the alliance of the eight canluiis with Friburgh and Soleure, that the union became absolutely fixed
and general. It must be confessed, however, that several Swiss historians have given the same idea
of the Helvetic union us that above mentioned ; and that even now authors diller considerably upon
some important articles of the league.
lolic Ciin-
thut pre-
irtcin in-
^liiist ull
(1(1. that
tc Ixidy ;
siKciliid.
AND IM run tOl/VTRV Of THE r.RXJnvt.
ftfifl
tliat the
, wlii
forci
>7
IS, which
f lorcijrtx
cc of the
)mincncc
tvilliii^ to
the fight
the tight
)d order,
wccn the
dgcs and
nay hur
'criiine
fnctiutib,
f Stuntz,
he forces
s of pro-
and sup-
siqiicqu'un
roit inutile
lutuille Hoit
.11 Hon bicn
cription of
c (Ic I'Eu-
s:" So far
: three old
:onnection
would be
muy have
example :
of uttaclc ;
lOugh Lu-
f any gen-
eight can-
iddirectly
cry treaty
ition, and
tely fixed
iamc idea
ibly upon
No ieparatc cugngt^rnrnt, which any of thr cantons inav coi> ;hulo, can l)C valid, if in-
connlHtcnt with the fundanKiital articUnof this ^(ncral urnon ; for the reciprocal contract
hctwcenthc nicnilxrs of the league supersediH every other species of pMl)lic ohiigation.
With these exceptions, the combitjcd states are indtpciulent of eai:h other; they u>ay
form ullianceh with any power, or reject the hanie, although all the othtrs have acceded
to it;" may grant auxiliary troops to foreign princes; may prohibit the money of the
other cantons from being current within their cwn territorie:> ; may impose taxes, and,
in short, perforni every other act of aljsolutc sovereignty.
The public affairs ol the Helvetic body and their allies arc dis«;ussed and determined
in the several diets ; and these are,
1. General diets; or general assemblies of the thirteen cantons, and of their allies.
2. Particular diets ; as those of the eight ancient cantons ; those of the l*rotestant can-
tons, with the deputies of the Protestants of Glarus atid Appeu'/el, of the towns of St.
Gallen, Bicnne, and Mulhaiisen, called the evangelieu! conferences; those of the Uomaii
Catholic cantons, with the deputies of the Cathf)lics of (ilarus and Appenx« 1, of the ab
bot of St. Gallen, and of the republic of the V'.illais, called the golden alliance; as also
the diets of particular cantons, which, beside being members of the gei/ral confederacy,
have distinct and separate treaties witli ach other.
The ordinary meetings of the genial diet arc held once a-yar, and contimic sitting
one month; the extraordinary assemblies arc stmxmoned upon particujar occasions. It
is principally convened in order to deliberate upon the best measures for the security of
the Helvetic body. The canton of Zuric appoints the time and place of n.rjting, and
convenes the deputies by u circular letter. The denuiy of Zuric aWo pr< sides, unless
the diet is held m the territory of any other canton ; mthat case, .he deputy of that can-
ton is president.
This diet formerly met at Baden; but since the conclr.sion of ihc civd war in 1712,
between Zuric and Bern on one side, and Lucern, Uri, Schweitz, Underwalden, and
Zug, on the other (when the five latter renoimced the co-regency of Baden) it has been
assembled at Fraucnfieldf in Thurgau. Each canton sends as many deputies as it thinks
proper. '
It would be descending into a tedious detail, to enter into the particular connections of
the several allies, either with the whole Helvetic body, or with some of the cantons ; and
the different nature of U\ese respective alliances. Suffer mc only to remark, that the
allies may be divided into associate, and confederate states : of the former are the abbot
and town of St. Gallen, Bicnne, and Mulhausen ; of the latter, are the Grisons, the re-
public of the Vallais, Geneva, Ncufchatel, and the bishop of Basle.
• The five cantons which agreed not to conclude any treaty witiiout the consei.t of tiic eight, are
-necessarily excluded from this power, together with those particular cantons, which have houncUliem-
sclves by private treaties not to contract any foreign alliance, without the reciprocal consent of (he
others; as for instance, Uri, Scliwuitz, and Underwalden, by the alliance at Urunnc-ii in 1315. But
this depends upon particular treaties, and has no relation to the gLiieral union. h\ fact, every can-
ton is restrained by the general articles of the Helvetic union; but, conl'orniing to those, no one re-
public is, in any other instance, controlled by the resolutions of the majority among the confederate
cantons.
t Frauenfield is no longer the scene of a free diet ; in the French division of Switzerland it became
the capital of the canton or department of Thurgau.
The last diet of Free Switzerland assembled at Arau in January 179H, and all the deputies, that
of Basle excepted, which withdrew from the confederacy, took an oath to defend the Helvetic consti-
tution to the last extremity. But this solemn appeal to heaven in defence of their liberiies proved a
mere ceremony, and produced no substantial efl'ect.
4 .s 2
' ' ' 1
684
COXliJ TllAVn.S IM SWITZEilL/lND,
Thcstatc'b tlius comiTiscd under the gcncraldcnominution of associates and confede-
rates, enjoy by virtue of this union, a total independence on all foreign dominion ;
and partake of nil the privileges and immunities granted to the Swiss in other countries.
And notwithstanding some of these states are allied only with particular cantons ; yet if
any of them should be attacked, those cantons with whom they are in treaty would not
only supply them with succoura, but would also require the join* assistance of the re-
maining cantons : if therefore any part of the whole body should be invaded, all the
other m.-mbers should unite in its defence, either as immediate guarantees, or as auxiliu*
j.vS of the actual guarantees. "*•
LETTER XIII.
Route by IVnUr from Zuric to Baden... .Bridge of jretti»gen..,.Baden..,. Castle of
Ilapsburg.
INSTEAD of f )llowing the usual route by land from Zuric to Basle, we proceeded
the greater ^iHrt of the v/ay by water. We embarked about two in the afternoon on the
Limmat. The lu vigatiun of that river has been described as extremely hazardous ;
yet \i is only dang-erous upon the melting of the snow, or after violent rains, when in
several places the rocks and shoals are covered with water. At other times there is no
danj^er, provided *the watermen are sober and experienced.
Our boat was flat-bottomed and long, and was rowed, or rather steered by three
watermen, who used their oars merely to direct the ve:.ael ; the stream being sufficiently
rapid to carry us along at the rate of six, eight, and sometimes even ten miles in the
hour. The water is beautifully transparent ; and its surface was occasionally raised and
agitated with high waves by a wind opposite to the current. The borders of the Lim-
mat, at first somewhat flat, afterwards gently rose into hills clothed^ with pasture and
wood, or divided into vineyards, were lastly quite perpendicular, and fringed to the
water's edge with hanging trees.
About a mile from Baden, where the Limmat flows with the greatest rapidity, we
shot under the bridge of Wettingen with such velocity, that in the moment of admiring
its bold projection on one side, I imperceptibly found myself on the other. This beau-
tiful piece of mechanism is a wooden bridge, two hundred and forty ieet in length, and
suspended above twenty feet from the surface of the water : it was the last work of
Grubenman, the self-taught architect, and is far superior in elegance to that of SchaiF-
hausen.
We landed at Baden, and walked to Hapsburg, Schintznach, Koningsfelden, and
Windish : of which places I shall give you a short description.
Baden derives its name from the neighbouring warm baths, which are mentioned by
the ancients under the names of Aquae and Thermae Helveticse. It was a Roman for-
tress, erected to curb the AUemanni or Germans, and was raised, when the Helvetians,
who supported Otho, were routed by Caecina, general to Vitellius. Being rebuilt, it
was taken by the Germans ; fell afterwards under the dominion of the Franks ; was,
■t the tenth century, incorporated in the German empire ; and became successively
subject to the dukes of Zaeringen, to the couvits of Kyburg, and to Rodolph of
* Such Mra& the theory of the Helvetic government, but unfortunately the practice did not accord
with the •.heor)-. The Swiss states, instead of resisting in a compact body the aggression of the French,
acted M'ithout concert or unanimity, and were compelled, one after the other, to dissolve their ancient
confederacy.
AND IS i UL COlTNrUV 01 illlL r.JilsONii.
6'db
id coktfedc-
dominion ;
r countries,
ons ; yet if
would not
of the re-
ded, all the
as auxilia.
..Castle of
: proceeded
oon on the
lazardous ;
is, when in
there is no
;d by three
sufficiently
kiiles in the
\r raised and
^f the Lim.
>asture and
iged to the
jpidity, wc
»f admiring
This beau-
ength, and
it work of
ofSchaff.
^elden, and
ntioned by
toman for-
lelvetians,
rebuilt, it
nks; was,
iccessively
odolph of
not accord
the French)
leir ancient
Hapsburg. In 1418, when his descendant Frederic, duke of Austria, was put undei
the ban of the emj)ire, the cantoti of Zuric took possession of the town and country ;
and, having purchased them fnjni the emperor Sigisniond, admitted to a joint share in
the sovereignty, Lucern, Uri, Schweitz, Underwalden, and Zug, Bern in 1426, andUri
in 1445.
Baden continued a bailliage of these eiglit cantons until the year 1712, when the civil
war breaking out between ttie Protestant and Catholic cantons, it was besieged and taken
by the troops of Zuric and Bern ; and at the peace of Aran was ceded to those two can-
tons and Giarus, which, on account of its neutrality, preserved its right of joint-'jovc-
reignty. Zuric and Bern did not, however, pr ve their disinterestedness, when not con-
tent with finally settling the religious disputes in favour of the Protestants, they exacted
from the Catholic cantons the cession of Baden, contrary to the convention of Strantz,
which forms the basis of the Helvetic constitiition. The umbrage conceived by the
Catholic cantons at this step was the principal inducement to conclude a perpetual alli-
ance with France in 1715, and to throw themselves under the protection of that power.
And this separate league has not been annulled by the general treaty which Louis XVI,
contracted with the thirteen cantons in 1776. Until 1712, the diet assembled at Ba-
den ; but has been since transferred to Frauenfield. The three cantons alternately ap-
point a bailiff, who resides in the castle.
The mhabitants elect their own magistrates, and have their own judicial courts. In
civil proceedings, an appeal lies to the bailiff, and from his decision to the syndicate,
composed of the deputies of the three cantons, and in the last resort to the three cantons
themselves. In penal causes, the criminal court condemns, and the bailiff enjoys the
power of pardoning, or mitigrting the sentence. The county or bailliage contains about
24,000 souls.*
From Baden we walked through an agreeable and well-wooded country for some
way, along the side of the Limmat, whose steep banks are covered with vines to the
edge of the water ; and in about tv/o hours crossed the Reuss into the canton of Bern.
Having passed through a plain, we arrived at the Iiaths of Schintznach, a place remarka-
ble for its agreeable position on the banks of the Aar, and its tepid mineral waters. It is
also well known as being the first place where the Helvetic society assembled. This
society, formed by some of the most learned men in Switzerland, both of the Catholic
and Reformed religion, first helped to extend the spirit of toleration, and to lessen that
antipathy which subsisted between the members of the two persuasions. Its publica-
tions have tended to promote a general zeal for the diffusion of polite literature. The
meeting of this liberal society is now transferred to Olten, a small town in the canton of
Soleure.
Near Schintznach stands, on a Iof\y eminence, ihe ruins of the castle of Hapsburg,
to which we ascended through a wood of beech, that seemed almost coeval with the
date of the castle. The ruins consist of an ancient tower, constructed with massive
stones, in a rude style of architecture, and part of a small building of much later
date.
It was erected in the beginning of the eleventh century, by Werner, bishop of
Strasburg, came to his brothers Radebot and Latzelin, and devolved to their descend-
ants. Oiho, grandson of Radebot, was probably the first person upon record who
styled himself count of Hapsburg, and it continued to be the principal title by which
* In the new division of Switzerland, the bailliage of Baden was converted into a canton or depart-
ment, of which that town is the capital.
li
1.1
f
I
686
tOXE S TRAVELS JN SWITZERLAND,
his posterity was distinguished, until it was lost in a greater dignity, when Rndolph of
Hupsburg was elevated to the imperial throne. His successors granted the castle and
its dependencies as a fief, first to the lords of Wildeck, and afterwards to the lord of Wo-
len: in 1415 it was occupied by Bern, during the contest between the emperor Sigis-
mond and Frederic of Austria, and given to the family of Segescrn of Bruneck. In
1469, it was sold to the convent of Konigsfelden ; on the dissolution of that monastery
at the reformation, was secularised, and seized by government ; has gradually gone to
decay, and is now inhabited by a peasimt''^ family.
This castle commands an unbounded view over hills and dales, plains and forests,
rivers and lakes, towns and villages, mountains and alps ; cinblem of (hat extent of
power to which the talents of one man, who derived his title from this castle, raised him.
belf and his descendants. You will readily perceive I allude to Rodolph of Hapsburg,
»\ ho, from a simple baron of Switzerland, became emperor, and founded the House of
Austria.
Rodolph was born in 1218. Having signalized his youth in constant scenes of war-
fare and contention, he was, in 1273, unexpectedly raised to the dignity of emperor, and
ronfcrrtd honour on that exalted station, no less by his political sagacity than by his mi-
litary prowess. He died in 1291, after a long and glorious reign, and in the seventy-
third year of his age.
Impressed with these ideas, as I considered on the very spot, the origin of the house
of Hapsburg, and its gradual progress towards that height of power which it has
since attained under the more distinguished appellation of the house of Austria : I com*
pared it to a small rill in the Alps, whose source is uncertain, which, having received
several streams, forms no inconsiderable river. Flowing through Switzerland still al-
most unknown to its neighbours, it no sooner enters Germany, than it loses its name by
its junction with the Danube ; and, having collected the tribute of numberless rivers,
rolls, with accumulated and still increasing waters, through a large extent of country, and
falls by a hundred mouths into the Euxine sea ;
et pare
Che gucrra porta e non tribute al mare.*
Rodolph, during his residence in this castle, would not have given credit to a persoil
endowed with the spirit of prophecy, who should have informed him, that, in little more
than a century, a few small republics would drive his descendants from their hereditary
dominions in Switzerland, and erect upon their ruins, and on the basis of equal liberty,
a formidable confederacy, which would be courted by the most powerful sovereigns.
Still less perhaps would he have believed, that he himself should possess the imperial
throne ; that his lineal descendants should rule over Germany, Hungary, Bohemia,
Austria, Spain, Burgundy, the Low Countries, Milan, Naj-.-a, and Sicily, and extend
their dominion and influence from the shores of the Euxine to the New World beyond
the Atlantic.
LETTER XIV.
Konigsfelden.... TFindish....Foyage down the Rhine.
Having gratified our curiosity at the castle of Hapsburg, f that cradle of the house
of Austria, which still confers a title on the present emperor of Germany, we de-
* Tasso.
t There is also a castle of Hapsburg, situated near the lake of Lucern, which I visited in 1779.
Some authors have e* oneously asserted, that this was the castle from whi;;hthe counts derived their
titles. But Hergot lias refuted this opinion ; and unquestionably proved that honour to be due to the
castle of Hapsburg which I have described in the preceding letter. See Hergot^ Gen. Dipl. Augs.
Domus Habsb.
dolph of
astle and
I or Wo.
or Sigis.
t;ck. Ill
lonastery
gone to
forests,
:xtent of
itd him>
iipsburg,
ouse of
of war-
;ror, and
his mi.
seventy-
le house
it has
I com-
•eceived
still al>
lame by
i rivers,
nry, and
person
Ic more
reditary
liberty,
reigns.
mix;rial
>hemia,
extend
Jeyond
house
i^e de-
ti 1779.
id their
5 to the
Augs.
ANli IN IHE COUNTUY OF THE cniSONS.
687
scended into the plain of Konigsfclden, to a convent of the same name, built by Eliza-
beth, on the spot where her husband the emperor Albert was assassinated. Albert,
as guardian to his nephew John of Hapsburg, had taken possession of his hereditary
dominions in Switzerland, and r.fused, under various pretences, to deliver them up to
him. Wearied with repeated and fruitless solicitation, John entered into a conspiracy
against the emperor, with Rhodolph de Warlh, Ulric de Palme, Walther de Eschen-
bach, and Conrad de 1'ugerft Id.
The emperor dined at Budcn, in his way to Rhcinfelden, a town in the circle of
Suubia, where the empress his consort had collected a considerable body of troops, for
the purpose of invading the three cantons of Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden, which
had revolted against him. Contemporary historians, who have recorded the minutest
circumstances m this whole transaction, relate, that Albert was in high spirits during
the repast : and that, his nephew again entreating to be put into possession of his heredi-
tary dominions, the emperor, with an air of banter, placed a garland upon his head,
adding, at the same time, •• this will be more suitable to you for the present, than the
cares of a troublesome government." This taunt so deeply affected the young prince,
that he burst into tears, flung away the flowers, and could not be prevailed upon to sit
down to table.
After dinner Albert continued his journey on horseback, accompanied by his sou
Leopold, the conspirators, and his usual attendants ; and came near the town of Windish,
in the canton of Bern, to the Reuss, over which river passengers were usually ferried
upon a raft. The conspirators first passed over, and were followed by Albert : as he
was riding gently on, expecting Leopold and the remainder of his suite, he was sud-
denly beset by the assassins. One of them having seized his horse's bridle, John of
Hapsburg reproached him for his injustirie in detaining his dominions, and struck him
on the neck with his sword : Rhodolph de Warth wounded him in the side, and Ulric
de Palme clove his head with a *i;ibre. In this condition they left him expiring upon
the ground.
This assassination was perpetrati ' the first of May 1308, in the open day, and in the
sight of his son and the rest of his suite, who had not as yet pas ,ed the river, and who,
though spectators of the murder, yet couid not assist the fmperor. The field lies be-
tween the Aar and the Reuss, not far from the junction i' those two rivers; and the
very spot where he was massacred is marked by a convent, erected by his wifi Eliza-
beth and his daughter Agnes ; the place was called Konigslc! len, or King's tield ; a
name it retains to this day. The remains of the emperor were buried in the convent
of Witterling, from whence they were afterwards transported to Spire, and there
interred.
The assassins escaped into the cantons of Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden, expecting
to find a sure asylum in a nation which Albert was prepari.j^ to invade. But the ge-
nerous natives, detesting a crime of so atrocious a natu< although committed upon the
person of their greatest and most formidable enemy, refused to protect the murderers.
D'Eschenbach concealed himself in the disguise of a common labourer during thirty
years, nor was his rank discovered *.*ll he confessed it upon his death-bed ; fte Palme^
destitute of common necessaries, died in extreme poverty ; de Warth, tied to a horse's
tail, like a common malefactor, dragged to tlie place of execution,, was broken upon
the wheel. John of Hapsburg, commonly known by the appellation of parricide, did
not reap the expected benefits of the crime ; for, by order of the emperor Henr}' the
Seventh, he retired into a monastery of Augustine friars, wherct he died in 1313.
f
ll^
m
Jm)
•)88
COXE S inAVELS IN SW ITZEni. A N D,
The widow of Albert turned her u hole lhoii}i;hts towards rcvcnginj^ the death of her
husband, and in this pursuit involved the innocent as well as the guilty : all who had
the snuillest connexion with the assa. ins, I)cing sacrificed with undistinguished cruelty.
Meanwhile the three cantons were, for a few years, left to the undisturbed enjoyment
of their liberties, and to sircngthcn themselves against any future attack : and thus they
innocently reaped the sole advantage which was derived from this assassination.
The convent or abbey of Konigsfelden comprised within its extensive precincts a nun>
nc; y of the order of St. Clare, and a monastery of monks of the order of Mint "itcs, se-
parated from each other by a wall. It was richly endowed by Elizabeth, her five sons,
and her daughter Agnes, queen of Hungary, who assumed the habit of a nun, and here
passed the remaind<r of her days. At the reformation the abbey was secularized, and
its lands a|)pr()priatetl ".jy government : part of the building became the residence of the
bailiff, part was converted into an hospital, and part was suffered to fall to ruin. Many
of the cells formerly occupied by the nuns, itill exist in their original stiite; and
one, in particular, is distinguislicd as the habitation in which queen Agnes lived and
dierl.
The chapel still remains entire, but it is no longer used for divine service. The glass
w indows are beautifully coloured, and painted with various histories of the Old Testa-
ment ; with the portraits of Elizabeth and Agnes, of the emperor AUiert, and his sons.
On the walls are coarsely represented the figures of Leopold duke of Austria, and
the principal nobles who perished at the battle of Sempach. Elizabeth and Agnes, and
several princes and princesses of the house of Austria, were buried in this chapel ; but
their bones were a few years ago removed to the abbey of St. Blaise, in the Black
Forest, where they were deposited with great pomp, and magnificent sepulchres erected
to their memory.
Near Konigsfelden is the small village of Windish, standing at the conflux of the
Aar and the Reuss, and supposed by antiquarians to occupy the site of Vindonissa, a Ro-
man fortress mentioned by Tacitus. In traversing the place I did not observe the least
signs of any antiquities; but various lapidary inscriptions, mile-stones, sepulchral urns,
medals, coins, and gems, which have been found in great abundance, sufficiently prove
that it must liave been the station of a large Roman colony. The reader, who is in-
clined to reflect on the vicissitude of human possessions, will recollect with pleasure the
following quotation : ** Within the ancient walls of Vindonissa, the castle of Hapsburg,
the abbey of Konigsfeld, and the town of Bruck, have successively arisen. The phi-
losophic traveller may compare the monuments of Roman conquest, of feudal or Au-
strian tyranny, of monkish superstition, and of industrious freedom. If he be truly a
philosopher, he will applaud the merit and happiness of his own time.'**
Early the next morning we embarked on the Aar, which, though here a trifling
stream, yet, being considerably swelled by the tribute of waters from the Reuss and
the Limmat, soon becomes a considerable river. Its banks are agreeably enlivened with
meadows and woods, and spotted occasionally with villages, castles, and ruins, hang-
ing on the water's edge. Having made a sma'l turn, it falls by a straight channel into
the Rhine, vying in size and rapidity with the great river in which t loses its name :
its waters, which are of a silvery hue, are for a long way distinguished from those of
the Rhine ; which, being transparent, and of a sea-green colour, bcem to disdain the
union.
* Gibbon's Decline and Fall of the Roman empire, vol. iii. p. 563.
A-
i'
AND IN THE COUNTRY OF THE PRISONS.
()89
The banks of the Rhuic are far superior in wildncss and beauty to those of the Aar,
in many parts rising pcrpendicuhirly, yet feathered with wood ; in others slopinf^ in
gentle declivities, richly bordered with vines, forest, and pastures ; and exhibiting n
continual succession of towns and villages. The rapid stream carried us above eighteen
miles in three hours, and we landed at Lauffenburgh, where the Rhine forms a cataract,
which, though greatly inferior to the fall of the same river near Schaffliausen, yet de-
serves to be visited by travellers for the beauties of the scenery. As I stood upon tlic
crags of the northern shore, the principal objects were, u high bridge, partly open and
partly covered, supported by three lofty stone piers ; on the south a row of houses, with
an old ruined castle on a summit, boldly overhanging the water ; a perspective of woods
and meadows under the arcades of the bridge ; and the river dashing over its craggy
bed, in a sloping cataract, until it is suddenly lost among the rocks which close the
view.
About half a mile below this fall we rc-embarked, and found the waters in many
parts more agitated than those of the Limmat ; particularly near Rheinfelden, where
they rush with such increasing velocity, that they were troubled like the waves of the
sea, and, beating against the boat, turned it ojliquely by their violence. Here we
were hurried along with such rapidity, that though I had a pencil in my hand, I had
no time for observation, much less for description ; I could only catch a general glance
of the romantic scenery, as we passed under a picturesque bridge of several .irches,
suspended high above the surface of the river, and joined to a steep rock, or which
towered some majestic ruins. In many parts, and for a considerable way, our vessel
passed within a few inches of the shelving rocks, and was only prevented from striking
them by the dexterity of the pilot.
As we approached Basle, the stream became less rapid ; and wc disembarked, highly
delighted with our expedition.
LETTER XV.
The Town qf Basle...,Erasmtis...,IJbrary.,„Holbein.
I ARRIVED at Basle or Basel, I supposed, about twelve at noon ; but was much
surprised to fnid, that all the clocks^ actually struck one : and, on inquiry, I was in-
formed, that they go constantly an hour faster than the real time. Different reasons
have been assigned for this singularity : some assert, that it was first practised during
the council of Basle, in order to assemble, at an earlier hour, the cardinals and bishops,
who, being lazy and indolent, always arrived lute. Others maintain, that a conspiracy
being formed to assassinate the magistrates at midnight, one of the burgomasters, who
had notice of the design, advanced the town-clock an hour ; by which means the con-
spirators, imagining they had missed the appointed time, retired ; and that the clocks
arc still kept in the same adva^iced state, as a perpetual memorial of this happy deli<
verance. But there is a third reason given for this strange custom, \vhich seems the
most probable. It is well known that the choirs of cathedrals are constructed towards
the east : that of Basle declines somewhat from this direction ; and the sun-dial, which
is placed upon the outside of the choir, and by which the town-clock is always regu-
lated, partakes of the declination ; a circumstance which, according to the celebrated
Bernoulli, occasions a variation from the true time of about five and forty minutes.
* The clocks of Basic, as well as the government, have undergone a revolutionary change in the new
order of things. The motion for altering the clocks according to the real time was made by M. dc
Mechel.
VOL. V. 4 T
%
\
!
V
(»iH)
coke's travels IM SWITZEHLANI),
The iiih.ihitants of Basic arc still so stroiiji;ly iittnchcd to this whimsical custom, that,
ahhouf^h if has been often proposed in the sovereifj^n council to regulate their clocks
properly, yt t the motion has been invariably rejected ; and the p{oi)le would suspect
that their liberties were invaded, if their clocks agreed with those of the rest of Kurope.
A few years since, several leadinjif men of the town determined to alter the hand of the
sun-dial half a minute a day, until the shadow should imperceptibly point to the true
hour. This expedient was accordingly practised, and the ciock had already lost near
thrc e quarters of an hour, when an accident discov red the design ; the magistrates were
ac'j'tidingly compelled to place the hand of the sun-dial in its former position, and to
regulate t!;" iiours as usual. Indeed, long-established customs, however indifferent or
ridiculous, are apt to make so strong an impression upon vulgar minds, as to become
homeiinics dangerous, and always difficult to be abolished; especially among a people,
like those of this country, who arc averse to any change, even in the minutest articles.
I need not remind you, liow long it was before the English could be persuaded to reckon
their years according to the general mode of computation in Europe.
Basic is beautifully situated upon the banks of the Rhine, near the point where that
rivtr which is here broad, deep, and rapid, after flowing some way from east to west,
turns suddenly to ih.e north. It consists of two towns joined together by a long bridge ;
the Large Town lies on the side of Switzerland, and the Small Town on the opposite
banks of the river. It stands very favourably for commerce ; an advantage which the
inhabitants have by no means neglected ; for they have established a great variety of
manufactures, particularly of ribbons and cottons; and an extensive trade is carried on
by the principal m'Tchants.
The cathedral is an elegant gothic building, but strangely disfigured by a daubing of
rose-coloured paint. It contains the ashes of Gertrude Anne coimtess of Hohenberg,
wife of the emperor Rodolph I, who died at Vienna, in 1281, and her body was con-
veyed to Basle. Her two christian names gave rise to much confusion, and led many
lustorians to conclude that Gertrude and Anne were two difterent personages, and suc-
cessive wives of that emperor ; while others ridiculously supposed that both were mar-
ried to him at the same time : nor were these erroneous opinions confuted, and the
controversy finally settled, till Hergot, the laborious genealogist* of the house of Aus-
tria, proved, from the most unquestionable authorities of ancient diplomes, the identity
of this divided personage ; and that the mistake u^ose from her being uniformly styled
Gertrude before her coronation, and Aiuie after the performance of that ceremony.
^3he bore to her busband fourteen children ; and though the mother of so large a family,
ytt such was her extreme sensibility, that the grief which she suffered at the departure
of l;er daughter Clementina to Naples, on her marriage with Charles Martel, hurried
her to her grave.
In the same church are deposited, under a marble tomb, the venerable remains of
the great Erasmus. That distinguished writer joined to superior learning, and a pecu-
liar elegance of style, the keenest wit, which he pointed, not only against the vices and
ignorance of the monks, but the general corruptions and disorders of the Roman
church. He was indeed the forerunner of Luther, in his first attacks upon the Catho-
lics, respecting the sale of indulgences : but afterwards, when the controversy appeared
more serious, and an open breach with the church of Rome seemed inevitable, he con-
demned the proceedings of that bold reformer. He considered them, indeed, as alto-
gtther unwarrantable; and, although he had himself censured and exposed the cor-
ruptions that infected the Catholic religion ; yet he zealously inculcated submissive
• See Hergouii Geneal. Diplom. Dom. Aust. vol. i. p. 125.
I
AND IN HIE COUNTRY 01 IHE GUISONa.
691
torn, that,
sir clocks
Id suspect
Kuropc.
»nd of the
o the true
lost near
rates were
>n, and to
ifferent or
o become
i people,
St articles,
to reckon
I'here that
t to west,
g bridge ;
opposite
which the
k'ariety of
:arricd on
aubing of
ohenberg,
was con-
led many
and sue*
were mar-
, and the
' of Aus-
le identity
ily styled
eremony.
a family,
departure
, hurried
:mains of
i a pecu-
k'ices and
' Roman
e Catho-
appeared
, he con-
} as alto-
the tor-
bmissivc
obedience to the decrees of what he called the "universal church." Agreeably to
these sentiments he advised the protcstants to endeavour at ()l>taining, l)y mild and
patient measures, what they might indiscreetly lose by a warmer and more violent op.
position.
Such temperate counsels were ill suited to the daring and impetuous spirit of Luther.
Accordingly, while Erasmus was acting the part of a mediator, and enileavouring to
moderate and allay the flame on each side, he drew upon himstlfthe (lis|)leasure ofbolii
parlies: in allusion to this temporising conduct, one of his adversaries applied to him,
:^ot unaptly, that line in Virgil,
Terms iiiler caeluinquc volubut.
The impartial truth seems to be, that he was by no means disposed to bcLon\e a mar-
tyr in the cause : the natural timidity of his temper, a too great deference to persons of
superior rank and power, and perhaps the fear of losing his pensions, induced him to take
a decided part against the reformers, and condemn their separation from the church of
Rome. ^
B'U it would be uncandid to impute his conduct wholly to selfish considerations :
something may fairly be ascribed to the powerful impressions of early prejudices; and
something to that rooted love of peace and studious trantjuility, which seems to have
been the spring of all his actions. Bet, whatever imperfections may be discovered in
some partir* lar parts of his character^ his memory must be revered by every friend of
geniuj, learning, and moderation. Liveliness of imagination, depth and variety of
erudition, together with great sagacity of judgment, were in him eminently united. He
infused a spirit of elegance even into theological controversies; and contributed to dis-
encumber literature from that scholastic jargon with which it was disgraced. Erasmus
reflected much honour upon this town, by choosing it as the favourite place of his re-
sidence, and publishing from hence the greatest part of his valuable works. In the
public library are preserved, with great veneration, his hanger and seal, several of his
letters, and his last testament, written with his own hand.
The university of Basle was formerly eminent in the Iterary history of Europe. Who,
in the least conversant in letters, is unacquainted with the celebrated names of Oeco-
lampadius, Amerbach, the three Bauhins, Grynaeus, Buxtorf, Wetstein, Iselin, the
Bernoullis, and Euler. If it has fallen from its pristine state of renown, its decline
must be principally imputed to the casual mode of electing the professors ; but it still
boasts several members who do honour to their nati\e town by their learning and abi-
lities.
The public library contains a small collection of books, remarkable for several rare
and valuable editions; particularly oi those printed in the fifteenth century. The most
curious manuscripts are numerous letters of the first reformers, and of other learned
men in the fifteenth, sixteenth, and seventeenth centuries; and an account of the pro-
ceedings at the council of Basle. The minutes of that council were taken by John of
Segovia ; and are supposed to be the same which are preserved either in the library, or
in the archives of the town : the former is written on paper, the latter on parchment.
A question has arisen which of these is the original. Some conclude in favour of that
in the archives, on account of the many false readings and mistakes in the other, which
are plainly the faults of the copyist. Others give the preference to that in the library,
because it is written in diflerent hands, and with diflerent ink, which seem to imply
that it v^^as noted down at various intervals, according as the acts of the council were
passed ; whereas that in the archives, being ]ienned on parchment, in the same hand
4x2
692
COXE's TRAVRLS !M SWITZERLAND,
and witli the 2>uinc ink, wus probably copied from the originul minutes; for who, it in
urf3;ed, would take minutes on parchmeiit ? A third opinion, still more probable, is,
tliat neither of these is the orifrjiuil. Several passages are wanting in both ; which omis>
hion may have i)roceedcd from the transcriber not being able to read every part of the
original. It is probable that John of Segovia took away the minuteK, and deposited
them at Home ; and that one of these manuscripts was the copy transcribed by order
of the council; of these, the manuscript on parchment appears to be the most authentic.
In a suite of rooms belonging to this library, is a cabinet of petrifactions, collected in
ihe canton of Basle by the Rev. Mr. Annoni : some ancient medals and gems ; a few
antiquities found at August ; a large number of prints ; and some fuie drawings and paint*
ings, consisting chiefly of originals by Holbein, who was a native of this town. These
pictures arc, most of ihcm, in the highest preservation : the connoisseur can here trace
all the difllreiu manners of Holbein, and compare the productions of his youth with
those of his maturcr age. A few are preserved, which he painted before he had reached
his sixteenth year; and one, extremely curious, which he drew upon a sign for a wri-
ting- master. The portraits of himself, his wife, and children in the same group, are
much admired for nature and simplicity of expression. The most valuable of these
paintings is an altar-piece, in eight compartments, which represents the passion of our
Saviour : a performance, in which this admiral)le artist has carried to the highest perfec>
tion that singular brilliancy of colouring so peculiar to his best compositions. I was
much struck with a profile of his friend and patron Erasmus, writing his commentary
upon St. Matthew ; there is a spirit and animation in the countenance, finely expressive
of his sagacious and penetrating talents.
Among the works of Holbein, that discover the liveliness of his fancy, must be men-
tioned the sketches he drew on the margin of the Eulogium of Folly by Erasmus, which
he received as a present from the author. This curious volume is preserved in the li-
brary, and has been lately published by Mr. Haas, in French, Latin, and German, with
lac-similes of the original designs, engraved on wood.
The dance ol death, in the church-yard of the predicants of the suburbs of St. John,
is frequently shewn to strangers as being of Holbein's pencil. It is painted in oil-colours
upon a wall wliich encloses the burial-ground : but, as it has several times been retouch-
ed, no traces are discoverable of that great master's hand. In fact, the hon. Horace
Walpole, and other unquestionable judges, have proved, that this performance was
painted before Holbein was born, and that he was not employed even in retouching it.
It is probable however, that, from this ancient painting, he took the first hint towards
composing his famous drawings on the dance of death. In treating that subject, he has
displayed such richness of imagination, and discovered so much judgment in the dis-
position,and so much spirit in the execution of the figures, that Rubens studied them
with particulfir attention, and took drawings from them.
The originals of Holbein's dance of death were purchased by M. Fleichman of Stras-
bourg, at the sale of the famous collection of Crozat, at Paris ; of which Mariette has
published a catalogue. They are now in the possession of prince Gallitzin, minister
from the empress of Russia to the court of Vienna. They consist of forty-four small
drawings : the outlines are sketched with a pen, and they are slightly shaded with Indian
ink. I had frequent opportunities of seeing them, during my continuance at Vienna,
and particularly admired the variety of attitudes and characters in which death is repre-
sented.
Prints have been taken from some of these drawings by Hollar, which are very scarce.
Mr. de Mechel, a celebrated artist of this place, has already engraved them after the
AND IN THE COIFNTRV OF THE CniSONS.
69J
1 1
who, it is
wble, is,
ichomis*
rt of the
kpositcd
by order
iithcntic.
Ilcctcd in
; a few
nd paint*
Thfsc
tre trace
uih with
reached
or a wri-
oup, are
of these
n of our
It perfec-
I was
imentary
:pressivc
be men-
s, which
n the li.
an, with
it. John,
-colours
■etouch-
Horace
nee was
:hing it.
towards
, he has
the dis-
;d them
)fStras.
ette has
ninistcr
ir small
I Indian
V^ienna,
i repre-
scarce.
rter the
orip;inal designs ; a m ork which cannot fail of being highly nccentablc to the admirers
of the fine arts ; he lias added lour engravings, wliicli arc not in the |)rincc's collection,
and which are taken from the prints of Mollar. He ingeniously conjectures, from tlu"
dresses and characters of sever;il of the figures in the dance of death, that the author
sketched them while he \.as in England. They were, probably, in the Arundelian col
lection when Hollar engraved them.
Mr. de Mechel has (inished also a set of prints from the fine paintings of the DusscN
dorf gallery, and likiwi:,e engravings of the famous Hedlinger's medals. This able artist
has a small but well chosen collection of paintings ; and his magazine of prints (in which
article he carries on a very considerable trade) is perhaps one of the largest and most
complete in Europe. I itm accjuainted with no person to whom the curious traveller can
address himself u ith greater advantage than to Mr. de Mechel, nor from whom he can
receive more useful information. To a particular knowledge of the physical beauties of
Switzerland, he joins a thorough acquaintance with the dinercnt governments, customs,
and manners of the several caritons. As he is intimately connected with the principal
men of learning in this countr}', his letters of recommendation aa* the most desirable,
and the most beneficial, that can be procured, and he enjoys as much satisfaction in con-
ferring, as can be received by accepting, his good offices. He indeed possesses a great
fund of good humour, an amiable frankness of disposition, and a certain originality of
manner, which, together with his other valuable qualities, recommend him as a no less
pleasing than useful acquaintance.
I visited also the small but pleasing collection of pictures, mostly of the Flemish and
Dutch schools, belonging to M Faesch, member of the Great Council. In the court-
yard before his house is a wooden statue of Rodolph I, sitting on a throne, and clothed
with the imperial insignia : underneath I observed the date of 1273, the aera of his coro-
nation. The rudeness of the sculpture renders it probable that it is an original of that
great emperor, who was besieging Basle when he received the unexpected news of his
election. The gates were immediately thrown open ; and he was instantly admitted as a
friend into that town, which had shut its gates against him as their enemy. On this oc-
casion he resided a short time at Basle, and, as tradition relates, in this very house.
I am, 8cc
LETTER XVI.
Government of Basle.
THE bishops of Basle once possessed the sovereignty over the city and canton ; but
were gradually deprived of their prerogatives; and, in 1501, finally quilted this town,
when the canton joined the Helvetic confederacy. They retired at first to Friburgh in
Brisgau ; and afterwards, cstitblishing their residence at Porentru, entirely lost the triHing
authority and inconsiderable prerogatives which remained to them. Upon the introduc-
tion of the rtlormation in 1525, the constitution was in some measure changed; and the
power of the aristocracy limited.
It would seem hi theory scarcely possible to divide the aristocratical and democratical
commonwealths into so many different species as exist in Switzerland : for, in this coun-
try, every republic has its peculiar modification ; and there is none more singular than
that of Basle. To view the general outlines of the constitution, it has the appearance
of an absolute aristocracy ;* but, upon considering it in detail, it will be found to incline
• An aristocracy (strictly speaking-) means that form of government, which places the supreme
power in the nobles, exclusively of the people ; but here I mean by it, the confining of the sovereign
»*.a4
COXl's TRAVELS IN SWI1ZERLANS,
towards ,i (Umocracy. The suprt' nic lef;is!ntive poucr resides in the great und little
councils, eonsistinj^ of aliont ihree hnndri<l nKnilKTs; and the authority of thtsc two
(oini('ils (.()ml)ined is without contronl. They enact laws, declare war and peace, con-
tract alliances, and impose taxes: they elect the several inap;istrates, apptsint their own
nuuihers, nontinate to all eniploynu iits, and confer the rip;ht of burnhersiiip. The f^c-
iieral administration of j^ovtrimu nt iscomnutted by the ^reat council to the senate, or
little council ; that is, to a part of its own body. This senate, composed of sixty mciTi>
bers, togt tlur uitii the four ehi(fsofihe n public, two burgomasters, and two great tri-
buiK s, is divided into two bodies, which ai t by rotation. The acting division conMtmcH
in ofHee one year, decides linally in all criminal causes, sup* rintends the police, und ex-
ercises several r)thcr powers subordinate to the sovi reign council. The collective body
of citizens assemblis only once a yi;tr; when the magistrates publicly take an oath to
maintain the constitution, and prcser\c the liberties and immunities of the people invio-
late. The reei[)rocai oath of obedience to the laws is administered to the citizens in their
respective tribes.
Uut, notwithstanding the Imundlessnrerogntives of the great council, yet the meanest
citizen is legally capable of being adnutud into that body, and by the singular method
of election may possibly be chostn. For the vacancies in the two councils are supplied
from all ranks of citizens, one class only excepted, the <\iembers of the univcrsit These
citizens are divided into eighteen tribes, called in German Zuenfte, fifteen of wiieh be-
long to the larger town, and three to the smaller ; each of the first-mentioned fifteen tribes
returns four members to the senate, and each of the whole eighteen sends twelve to the
great council. Formerly these elections were determined by u plurality of voices; but
as by these means the richest person was always certain of being chosen, a ternaire was
established in 1718, that is, three candidates were nominated, and from these the suc-
cessor was appointed* by lot.
Although this mode of election in some measure put a stop to corruption, yet it was
not sufficient to counteract entirely the iiiHuence of the wealthy ; and as the poorer cid-
zcns could seldom succeed to the most honourable or lucrative employments, they pro-
cured an act to be passed in 1740, changing the ternaire into a senairc; by which six
candidates, instead of three, were put in nomination, and drew lots for the charge. Six
tickets, containing the names of the respective candidates, and separately placed in silver
eggs, are inserted into one bag ; and the same number of tickets, five of which are blanks,
and one is marked with the vacant employment, are placed in another. The reigning
burgomaster and the great tribune, appointed to be die drawers of this official lottery,
both at the same instant take a ticket from each bag, and the candidate whose name
comes out at the same time with the ticket on which the employment is written, obtains
}.he post.
It would be too tedious, and indeed too uninteresting a detail, to enter into a minute
account of the forms and circumstances requisite to be observed lu selecting the several
authority to a certain limited mitiibcr of persons, without considcritjg whether they are patricians or
picbiuns, iiublcs or coinniuns ; lor ut Uusle cvtvy citizen who is noble, und wlio chooses to retain his
^tille of nobility, is incapubic of being elected u ineniber of the sovereign council.
*The fifteen tribes in the great town are culled Zuenstc, und the three in the small town Gesell-
schaftcn, or companies. It niuy also be remarked, that the citizens of the smull town enjoy more
advantages than those of the great town ; inasmuch as the former may be appointed to public employ-
ments cither in the tril)es or inthc cumpanies; whereas a citizen of the great town cannot be admitted
into the companies, unless he resides in the small town.
^NI> IN iiiE cnuNTHV 01 iiir. (. ni«oM«.
OPj
and little
thtsc two
•ICC, con-
tlu'ir own
The 1^.
senate-, or
Kty mem-
great iri-
con'inucb
it und cx-
tive body
n oaiU to
>lt' invio-
IS in their
c meanest
method
: supplied
'I'hcse
w lioh be-
L-en tribes
ve to the
ices; but
iiuire was
the sue-
et it was
•orcr citi-
they pro-
vhich six
Ije. Six
i in jiilver
'e blanks,
reigning
il lottery,
Dse name
I, obtains
a minute
le several
tricians or
retain his
vn Gcscll-
njoy more
c employ-
: aUmilted
candidates. To f^ive, however, some general idea of this matter : upon a vae.uu y in
the great (ouncil, for instance the six candidates must be taken from the citizens of
that tribe, to which the person who occasioned the vacancy be longed, and be nominated
by HUth of the members of the gre.it and little coiuuils iis an ol'thr same tribe. The
candidates for the senate and for the tribunes or chit is of each tribe, called in German
mei ter, arc appointed by the great coinicil. But thea* is one case in which the scnairc
is not practised ; for, upon the death of a burgomaster, his colUagui, who is the great
tribune, succeeds of course.
It siiould seem that many inconveniences must flow from this absurd method of* sup-
plying vucant posts in the government, as they are lelt entirely to the capricious disposal
of lortunc. fn fact, it has not unrrefjuenlly happened that a candidite, who>>e know-
ledge and abilities rendered him capable of being serviceable to the state, has never ob-
tained the successful ticket; while chance has bestowed it upon anodn r by no means
Jiualiticd to fulfil the duties of the emiiloyment. However, notwithstanding the ill ef-
cets resulting from this casual mode of election, the management of public affairs is in
general well conducted ; and there are few instances of civil justice unwisely adminis-
tered, or of innocence siicrificed to u ealth or power.
But the counsellors of state and m.igistrates are not the only persons chosen by lot ;
even the professors in the university arc elected in the same manner. The three cundi-
dates (for in this instance the tcrnaire is still in use) must be no-.nin.Ued from those who
have taken the degree of doctor. Hence a candidate not unfrequcntly otters himself
for the professorship of a science which he has never made the peculiar object of his stu-
dies, if the chair of that particular branch of literature in which he excels is already oc-
cupied ; for, under these circumstances, the res])ective unqualified professors change
places with each other. Thus (to mention an instance from a family well known) John
Bernoulli, the famous mathematical professor in this university, who died in 1748, left
three sons, Nicholas, Daniel, and John, all justly celebrated for their skill in that science,
in which their father and uncle so eminently excelled. Nicholas died at St. Petersburgh,
member of the imperial academy of sciences ; and Daniel, having followed his brother
into Russia, returned to Basle on obtaining the professorship of anatomy, which he after-
wards had ail opportunity of h.ippily exchanging for that of natural philosophy ; he
died in 1782.* A similar circumstance happened to the third son John; after being
several times an unsuccessful candidate in the lottery of professorships, chance at length
* The following curious epitaph on u lawyer, interred in the cathedral, complains that the deceaned,
notwithstanding liis advanced age of 84, which iiad afforded many opportunities of being nominated
candidate for various ofliccb of state, had been continually excluded by fortune t
S: E: S:
Locum quo Sepclirctur
dc suo acquisivit
JOH : GEORG. SCllVVEIGHAUSER
J. U. L. Ducentum Vir
Fori Judiciarii i Appellationis
ultra aL, Annos assiduns Assessor
muneribus autem Acudemicis
et publicis Oflkiis
Sorte constantcr exclusus
vixit tamcn et vivere desiit
ut Virum Honestum decet
natus Mcnsc Januario 1695.
Obiit Die VII, Mcnsis Junii 1779.
H. M. H. P.
.^vf
i
I
a»o
COXK*> IRAVILB IN IW IT7.ERI.A N D,
conferred on liini the chair of rlutoric, for which he w.is wholly nnlit ; l»it upon his fa-
tlurN death he changed with M. Uinnspeck, to ulioni fortune hud ik%^igne<l the professor-
ship of niathrmaticK.
'I'lu sumpmary laws are very strict at na^le. The tine of cotichcH in the town Is not
indeed prohihitid, as at /.uric ; hut what is more singular, no citi/.cn or inhabitant is
allowed to have a .servant behind his carriage. Laws of this kind may be carried, in
some instances, to a scrupulous and even ridiculous miimteness ; upon the whole, how-
ever, they are excellent regulations, and not only useful but necessary in a small repub-
lic. They have certainly operated with great advantage in this town j for although it
contains several fantilies vvhoarcconsiderai)ly rich, yet a happy simplicity of manners is
still so predon)inant, that you would smile if 1 were to particularise those nuicles which
pass Muder the opprobrious denomination of luxury.
The lower ranks of citizens are in general so strongly prejudiced in favour of their
own country, as to seem convinced that true felicity is only to be found at Uasle ; and
indeed that <lass of people are in no part of the world more happy. Kvery person boasts
that he is free, and is so in reality ; and us the citizens not only |)Ossess very consideruble
privileges, but each individual may also indulge the hope of being one day chosen into
the sovereign council ; he enjoys a certain degree of res|K'ct and consideration v xtremely
flattering to his self-importance. In fact, several of the magistrates exercise the meaner
trades ; and the present treasurer, whose name is Muench, is a baker : he is indeed a
person of distinguished knowledge and merit, and has been twice appointed one of the
candidates for tlie oflice of great tribune ; which, hud fortune favoured him, would
have been followed on the next vacancy by his succession to the office of burgomaster.
In general the burghers sons receive an excellent education : they always learn the
Latin, and not imfrequently the Greek tongue ; and it is by no means unusual, even
for the lower sort of tradesmen, to employ their leisure hours in the perusal of Horace,
Virgil, and Plutarch.
1 he conduct of magistrates is no where more freely, nor more severely, criticised than
at Basle. The people may sometimes, no doubt, extend this privilege beyond its pro-
per limits ; but they can never be totally restrained from exercising it, without striking
at the vitals of their liberty : it is essential to their existence, and no free govemmctit
can long survive its extinction.
Basle is the largest, and seems formerly to have been one of the most populous towns
in Switzerland : its extent is capable of containing above a hundred thousand inhabi-
tants; whereas it can scarcely number more than fourteen thousand. Many particular
causes may have concurred to occasion this remarkable decrease ; but I will mention
only one or two to which it may be attributed.
It is proved, from undoubted calculations, that in all great cities the number of bu-
rials exceeds that of births ; consequently, unless this unequal proportion is compensated
by a constant accession of new inhabitants, in process of time every great town must ne-
cessarily become depopulated. Now the citizens of Basle are so jealous of the burgher-
ship, and pride themselves so much upon the privileges which accompany it, that they
seldom deign to confer it upon foreigners : a supply therefore to balance that gradual
waste of people I have mentioned, can never be derived from an influx of strangers,
who are not permitted to carry on commerce, or to follow any trade. A few years
ago some of the magistrates, sensible of the impolicy of this prohibition, procured a law,
by which the I'reedom of the town and the right of burghership was allowed to be con-
tl
AND IN TUB COt/NTRV OK Tflt CRIinNS.
r.97
Oil hiH Hi-
)rurcs»or-
")wn U not
uibitunt is
arricd, in
U)lo, liovv-
all rcpiib-
though it
iianncn is
Ics which
r of their
aulc ; und
ioti housts
ihidcruble
loscn into
xtremely
\\c meaner
\ indeed a
me of the
ti, would
gomaster.
Itarn the
mal, even
f Horace,
ciscd than
id its pro-
It striking^
vemmciit
)us towns
d inhabi-
|)articular
1 mention
»er of ba-
ipensated
must ne-
burgher-
that they
t gradual
strangers,
bw years
red a law,
> be con-
Icrredupoii slranger«i; but it wan rloggcd with so many rcstrirtioiiH, as hy no mrnns to
aiiHwr r the purpose for which it was iiiti ruled. I*' viry principle iiidei d of private inter,
est and ambition eonciirn «' to prevent itscfHc;>cy : niid ik* wonder, for b'Klit s of mm arc
seldom actuated by so generous a spirit as to sacrifice their pergonal siud immediate ad
vantage^ttn il\c future welfare and prosperity of i/ieirc.<ui,try.* I am, ?se.
LETTKH XVII.
Combat at tlio haxpital of St. James, between the forces of Louis iliuif)hin (J' France
and a corps of Swiss troops..., Rtu:,i of»lugust,...Mul/iauscn.
CURIOSITY led me, during my continuance at BaHJe, to visit the hospital and bui) •
inggruund of St. James, not far from the town, and near the small river Hirs, celebrated
for a desperate combat in 1444, t>etween the Swiss and the dauphin r\' France, af^cr*
wards Louis XI. Never was Swiss valour c id intrepidity so signally di >playcd, as b}
a few battalions of their troops on that memorable day.
This famous battle was fought in consequence of some disputes which arose l>ctwecn
the canton of Zuric and those of Schweitz and Glarus. Zuric refusing to iibide by the
m .'diation of the five neutral cantons, who had decided in favour of Sthweitz and Glu-
rus, a civil wiir ensued ; upon which occasmn Zuric formed an alliance with the emperor
Frederic the Third. The seven ancient cartons, in order to obtain a renunciation of
this alliance, which they justly considered as an infringement of their league, laid siege
to that town. Frederic, unable to send a suflicient body of troops to its relief, apnlicd
for additional succours to Charles the Seventh, ku\g of France; who, as well with a
view of dissolving the council of Basle as for the particular purpose required, ordered a
considerable army to march, under the command of his son Louis, \ccordingly the
dauphin entered with his forces into Alsace, and after laying waste and harassing the
adjacent provinces, appeared before Basle. Upon ti-is occasion, a detachment of fifteen
hundred Swiss from the army of the confeder:ttes (at that time employed in besieging
Farnsburg) were ordered to throw themselves into the town of Basle, which was but
slightly garrisoned.
This handful of men advanced without Interruption to the plain of Brattelin, where
they charged, with such determined and well conducted valour, eight thousand of the
enemy's cavalry, as to drive them back to Muttenz, at wlv.ch place the repulsed were
joined by another corps ; but notwithstanding this re-inforccment, the Swiss renewing
* Dusle was the first canton which scpnratc^l from the old Helvetic confudt.nicy, and adopted the new
constitution lubricated in Fruucu. Its situation near the frontiers exposed it tu the intrigues of the
French agents, and without foreign support rendered it incapable ai resistance. The peasants of the
canton were likewise dissatisfied with the niunopolv of power and cumniercc vested in the imrghers
of the town ; rncouragcd by the French, and excited by their own turbulent demagoguea, they peremp-
torily required emancipation and independence. The magistrates could only lament in secret the pro-
gress of disaffection, and were compelled to submit without a struggle; the French having over run
the bishopric of Basle, and annexed it to their own donninions, claimed the episcopal paluce as sue-
cceding to the rights of the bishop, and under that pretence introduced a corps of troops into ilie town.
The progress of the revolution in this canton was almost iiis'-uituneous: the peasants rose indifferent
districts, demolished the castles of the bailiffs, planted on the 18th of January, at Lieclistall, th»; first
tree of liberty, and sent deputies to Basle with their declaration of rights, which they styled MagnaChur-
ta. The magistrates acceded to their demands, admitted 600 militia into the town, und recalled their
deputies from Aran. On the 24th the tree of liberty waa planted at Basic, and on the 5lh of rebru:\ry
the old magistrates resigned their authority, and sixty delegates, appointed by the people, were in-
vested with a provisional government, until the new constitution should be consoli''ated. Thus the
magistrates of Basle were first compelled to set the fatal example of a separation from the Ilelve'tir
Union; an example which was soon followed by the other parts of the confederacy-
VOL. V. 4 V
h
1 :'
•' '.
r
ip^
o98
COXE'3 travels in SWITZERLAND,
ihe assault with fresh intrepidity, forced them to repass the river Birs, where the main
body of the army was chiefly drawn up. Such was the firmness and solidity of the
Swiss in tb'oc sevend rccountcrs. that to use the expression of an old French chronicle,
v/hcn the cavalry cnarged " they could make no more impression than if they had at-
tacked a rock, o: an imjKuelruble wail." The Swiss, encouraged by this wonderful
success, and exasperated with the most spirited indignation against the invaders of their
coiuttry, disregarded the remonstrances of their officers, and rashly attempted to force
their passage over a bridge which was guarded by a large body of the enemy ; but this
effort of inconsiderate valour proving ineflectual, these gallant soldiers, throwing them-
selves into the river, gained the opposite shore, in the face of a battery of cannon that
v/as playing against them.
What could the desperate ^ourage of so small a number avail against an army of
thirty thousand njen advantageously posted in an open plain ? They had no alternative
but to throw down their arms, or gloriously expire. They bravely preferred death :
five hundred look possession of a small ialand near the bridge, and, after resolutely de-
fending themselves to the last extremity, were cut to pieces. A like number forced
their way through the ranks of the enemy, and marched towards Basle ; when they
»vere opposed by a large body of horse, posted to prevent the inhabitants of the town
from sallying to the relief of their countrymen. Being now surrounded on all sides,
they threw themselves into the hospital of St. James, and, lining the walls of the bury,
ing-ground, resisted for some time the united assaults of the whole French army. At
length the hospital being set on tire, and the cannon having battered down the walls of
the burying-ground, they fought no longer in hopes of victory ; but still resolving to
sell their lives as dear as possible, they continued to defend themselves to the last gasp.
iEneas Sylvius (afterwards pope Pius II,) relates, among other actions of singular
valour exerted by this heroic troop, a particular insiance which I cannot forbear men-
tioning. Four French soldiers assaulted a single Swiss, and having killed and stripped
him, proceeded to insult the corpse : one of his companions, incensed at this brutal ac-
tion, seized a battle-axe, rushed upon the four, slew two of them, and drove the others
to flight ; then flinging the dead body of his friend upon his shoulders, carried it to a
place of security ; and returning to the attack, fell by the hand of the enemy.
Of the who'e number but sixteen escaped from the field of battle ; and these, agree-
ably to the old Spartan discipline, were branded with infamy, for not having sacriflced
their lives in defence of their country. Among those who were desperately wounded,
and left upon the field, only thirty-two were found alive. The names of many of these
glorious combatants were registered, and still remain upon record.
It is not easy to ascertain the number of forces on both sides in this ever memorable
engagoment. As far as we can judge, by comparing the several relations of the French
and German historians, the army of the dauphin consisted of at least thirty thousand.
Charles and his son Louis, in their letters to the German princes on this occasion,
asseirt, that three thousand Swiss fell on the field of battle ; and perhaps that account
is not much exaggerated. With respect to the slain on the side of the dauphin, the
amount is still more uncertain : his loss, however, must have been very considerable, for
he remained three days upon the field of battle; and, the better to conceal the number
©f the killed, ordered the dead bodies to be secretly interred in different parts of the
neighbourhood. He was effectually prevented from prosecuting his designs upon
Switzerland, and compelled to retire with his shattered army into Alsace. Louis him-
self, indeed, declared, that such another victory would ruin his army ; and generously
confessed, that he derived from it no other advantage, than to know and esteem the
valour of the Swiss. Accordingly, this combat may be considered as forming a re-
AND IN rilL COUNinV OF THK ORISONS.
G99
crc the main
lidlty of the
ch chronicle,
they had it-
is wonderful
aders of their
Hed to force
ny ; but this
owing them-
f cannon that
t an army of
10 alternative
erred death:
esotutely de-
imber forced
; when they
of the town
on all sides,
of the bury-
1 army. At
the walls of
resolving to
he last gasp.
i of singular
forbear men-
and stripped
his brutal ac-
ve the others
arried it to a
these, agree-
ig sacriBced
ly wounded,
any of these
r memorable
f the French
ty thousand,
lis occasion,
hat account
iauphin, the
iiderable, for
the number
parts of the
isigns upon
Louis him-
l generously
esteem the
rming a re-
markable aera in the historv of the Swiss: for it fi^avc rise to their treaty witlj Charles llu"
Seventh ; the first alliance which they contracted with rrancc.
The war, however, between the house of Austria and Zuric on one side, and the seven
cantons on the other, continued until the year 144G, when a peace was concluded by the
mediation and decision of certain arbiters : Zuric renounced its connection with the
house of Austria ; and the Helvetic confediracy was again solemnly renewed and con-
firmed between the eight cantons. Upon this occasion two very important articles ivi
the public law of Switzerland were finally settled : firt>t, that all disputes between any
particular cantons should be decided by the mediation of the :ieutral cantons ; and if
either of the two contending parties should decline to accjuiesce under their judgment,
the neutral cantons are empowered to have recourse to arms, in order to compel the re-
cusant to abide by their determination; secondly, notwithstanding the rij^lit which either
of the cantons might have reserved to itself, of contracting alliances w ith I'orcign powers,
yet the other confederates are to judge whether such alliance is contradictory to, or in-
compatible with, the articles of the general union ; and if it should appear to be so, it is
declared null and void.
The Swiss still talk of this famous action with the warmest enthusiasm. Accordingly,
the inhabitants of Basle form parties every year, to an inn situated near the hospital and
burying ground, in order to commemorate, in a red wine produced from some vine-
yards planted on the field of battle, the heroic deeds of their brave countrymen, who so
gloriously sacrificed their lives. This wine, which they call the " Blood of the Swiss,"
IS highly prized by the Basileans, though it has little to recommend it in point of flavour ;
nevertheless, I am much mistaken if that line of Horace,
Noil missura cutcm nisi plena crvioris.
was more applicable to the teazing poet he mentions, than it is to those jovial patriotic
parties, at the anniversary coinpotations of the " Blood of the Swiss."
Near Basle are the ruins of Augusta Rauricorum, formerly a large town under the
dominion of the Romans, now a small village in the canton of Basle, close to the Rhine.
Its ancient remains are very inconsiderable, consisting of a few columns of marble, still
standing, and some scattered fragments of pillars, together with a semicircular range of
walls upon a rising ground, the greater part of which has fallen, and is almost overgrown
with under-wood. From the present appearance of the ruins I should hardly have con-
jectured that they once composed part of a theatre, capable of containing above twelve
thousand spectators. But the celebrated Schsefflin has given, in his Alsatia Illustrata, a
particular description of this theatre, and of the temple, to which the marble columns
formerly belonged. I noticed also the remains of some small aqueducts, which con-
veyed water to the town from the distance of above twelve miles ; but none of these
ancient relics are sufficiently remarkable to merit the trouble of a particular visit.
The peasants, in turning up the ground, frequently find medals of the Roman empe.
rors, from Augustus to Constantine ; and are become, by experience, able to distinguish,
with some degree of precision, those that are rare from the common coins. I purchased
of a labourer two medals which he had just found ; a Trajan and an Albinus ; and though
the former was by far the most perfect, yet he exacted three times as much for the latter,
because he had never seen it, he said, before.
From Basle I made an excursion to Mulhausen, a town in alliance with the Swiss
cantons ; which, though situated at the distance of several miles from the froiiders of
Switzerland, and entirely enclosed within the dominions of France, is yet considered
4 u 2
' Hi
700
COXE*S TRAVELS IN SV/ITZERL ANC,
and respected as a part of the Helvetic confederacy ; and entitled to all the privileges en>
joyed by that body.
Mulhauscn stands in Sundgau, a district of Alsace, about fifteen miles from Basle;
in a fertile plain, at the bottom of a ridge of hills, and at a small distance from the Vosges.
The walls of the town enclose a circumference of not more than two miles, and its
whole territory is comprised within a precinct of eight miles.
This little republic maintained its privileges, which had been granted by the empe-
rors during the times of feudal tyranny, by contracting an alliance, at different intervals,
with Basle, Strasburgh, and the towns of Alsace and Suabia ; and afterwards, in the
middle of the fifteenth century, with Bern, Friburgh, and Soleure. At length, in 1515,
it was received into the Helvetic confederacy ; which league has preserved its liberty
and independence from the encroachments of the empire, on one hand, and, on the
other, from the att.icks of France. The inhabitants are of the reformed religion. The
town contains about eight huno/ed houses, and six thousand souls, and there are two
thousand subjects in the villages within its little territory. Mulhauscn owes its present
flourishing state to its manufactures, which consist principally of printed linen and cot-
tons.
The government is aristo-democratical. The supreme power resides in the great
and little councils, consisting both together of seventy-eight persons, and drawn jfrom
the burghers, whose number amounts to seven hundred, distributed into six tribes.
Mr. Koehlin's commercial school deserves to be mentioned. It is a private institu-
tion for about thirty scholars, who are instructed in the German, French, and Latin Ian-
guages; in fencing, dancing, and all polite accomplishments ; and more particularly
in accounts and book-keeping. The expence, including an uniform, amounts to
;f 50 per annum. The plan is very judicious, and the whole appeared to be well con-
duced.*
LETTER XVHL i
Bishopric of Basle....Porentru....Abbey of Bellelay....Arlesheim....Delmont.,..VaUey of
Munster.... Pierre Pertuis....FaUeyofSt.Imi€r.
ALTHOUGH great part of the dominions subject to the bishop of Basle, or, as he is
called by the Protestants, the prince of Porentru, is not comprised within the limits of
Switzerland ; yet as, till lately, he was in alliance with the Catholic cantons, and as many
of his subjects, even in those districts which lie within the German empire, are com.
burghers with Bern, and under the protection of that republic, his territory is usually in-
cluded in all the topographical accounts of Switzerland. It merits also the notice of the
traveller for its romantic scenes, of the mineralogist for the variety of its petrifactions
and fossils, and of the politician for the peculiarity of its government, and the numerous
and complicated immunities of the people.
Having made various excursions into this country, I shall lay before you a general .
account of its political state, and a particular description of those parts which I had an
opportunity of visiting.
The bishopric of Busle may be classed under two general divisions : the first lies to
the south of Pierre Ptftuis, and forms a part of Switzerland ; the second, to the north of
the same boundary, includes that district situated within tlie German empire.
• Mulhausen is no longer an ally of the Helvetic body. In 1798 it surrendered to tkc FrencIi,aJ^ ;
tcr a blockade of two years, and was incorporated with the French republic.
::.-ttaMa^:ue>AWt,'J>WMaUfla.Ma^a»'anw
-.J.--.
t'ilegts en.
om Basle;
le Vosges.
s, and its
the empe-
t intervals,
ds, in the
I, in 1515,
its liberty
d, on the
on. The
'e are two
ts present
I and cot-
the great
awn iFrom
ibes.
e institu-
Latin Ian.
irticularly
lounts to
well con-
Galley of
r, as he is
limits of
1 as many
are com.
dually in-
ice of the
ifactions
nmerous
general
[ had an
it lies to
north of
rencli, aJB
AND IN TH« COITNTRY OF THE CHISONS.
701
The sovereign is chosen by the chapter of eighteen canons, resident at Arlcsheim, and
confirmed by the pope. He is prince of the German empire, and does homage to the
emperor for that part of his territory which lies in the circle of the Upper Rhine. He
was always considered as an ally of the Swiss, by his union with the Catholic cantons,
first formed in 1579, and renewed at different intervals, particularly in 1671 and 1697;
and, by being included in the treaty which those cantons contracted with France in 1715.
But as he was not comprised among the allies of the Swiss, in the league between the
thirteen cantons and Luuisthe Sixteenth i 1777, he can at present scarcely be deemed
a member of the Helvetic confederacy.
The first particular alliance with France was concluded in 1739, between the bishop
and Louis the Fifteenth, and was renewed in 1780. By virtue of this treaty the bishop
has troops in the French service ; and his subjects enjoy all the privileges which are
granted to the natives of the thirteen cantons.
In case of a rupture between France and the empire, he is bound to remain neuter.
But this neutrality did not in 1675 prevent the French troops from being quartered in
his dominions, as forming part of the empire ; and they were only removed at the inter-
cession of the Catholic cantons. If a misiniderstanding should arise between France and
the emperor, the bishop's situation would be extremely embarrass'ng ; as his doubtful
connection with the Swiss would scarcely preserve his territory from being invaded by
one of those two powers.
The form of government is limited sovereignty : the bishop being bound, on all im-
portant occasions to consult his chapter ; and his prerogative being confined by the great
immunities enjoyed by his subjects in general, and particularly by those of the reformed
communion. He nominates to all employments, both civil and military, and appoints
the bailiffs or governors ; criminal justice is administered in his name, and he has the
power of pardoning. In civil proceedings, he receives an appeal from the inferior courts }
but in his German dominions, when the cause exceeds the value of a stipulated sum, it
may be Ciirried to the chambers of Wetzlar or Vienna.
The subjects of the bishop are partly Protestants and partly Catholics. The Protes-
tants, of whom a more particular account will be given, inhabit the greater part of the
valley of Munster, and the whole district of the south of Pierre Pertuis, and are about
15,000 ; the Catholics amount to 35,000.
The French and German languages being both spoken in the bishop's dominions,
several places have two names, that scarcely resemble each other ; natnely, Munster and
Moitier, Dachfield and Tavannes, Pslmont and Delsberg, Corrandellin and Rennen-
dorf, Elay and Seehof.
Porentru, capital of the bishop's dominions, and his principal residence is situated in
the bailliage of Elsgau, about three miles from the frontiers of France. It is a small but
neat town ; and its position, in an oval plain, surrounded by well-wooded hills, and
watered by a serpentine rivulet, is exceedingly pleasant. The episcopal palace, whicli
has been lately repaired and augmented, stands on an eminence overlooking the town,
and the environs fertile in corn and pasture. One of the towers/ built of stone, and said
to be of Roman workmanship, still remains a monument of its antiquity.
The highways, which lead from all quarters to Porentru, and have been formed at a
•onsiderablc expence, do honour to the sovereigns of this country. The road to Belle-
lay and Bienne is a magnificent causeway ; is carried upon hanging terraces ; through
" twilight groves," and along continued ascents and declivities. I passed it by moon-
li^t ; and the reflection of the rays quivering through the thick foliage was inconceiva-
bly beautiful. . . *. .
.m
1
,j.---
-TJI'
m^g^m.' M».'-a«
702
COXE's XnAVELO IN SWIT2ERL A N'»,
Bellcliiy, which I visited in my journey from Biciine to Porcntru, is a rich abbey of
Benedictines, nhout twenty miles from thec.ipiial, in a solitary but not iinplei'.sant situa-
tion, surrounded by mountains, and sheltered by forests. This abbey is not merely
confined to religious purposes ; the late abbot, Nicholas de Luce, havinp; instituted a
military ac.idemy for the youn.q; noI)ility and jjjcntry. For this purpose he erected a large
building near the abbey, and provided suitable masters and professors. When I was
there, the number of scholars amounted to fort\-. They are instructed in various branches
of polite literature; they wear uniforms; and are trained to military manoeuvres and
exercises. The cheapness of this school, and its distance from the dissipation of large
towns, render it of great public utility. The whole expence of each scholar for his board,
lodging, instruction, and various lessons, scarcely exceeds ;f 20 per annum. It is curi-
ous to find a military academy established in the midst of rocks and forests, and withia
the walls of a convent ; and to observe Benedictine friars, instead of wasting their tmic
in monkish ignorance, rendtring themselves beneficial to society.
The chapter, composed of eiglitceix canons, u'ho, upon a vacancy in the see, possess
the right of electing the bishop, wiis fixed at Frlburgh in Brisgau from the period of the
reformation, which drove them fr<Mn Basle, to 1677, when Fril^urgh was occupied by
the French troo-)s. In the following year the chaj)ter was transferred to Arlesheim,
where it now resides. The vacant canonries are filled alternately by the pope and chap*
ter.
On the 14th of August 1786, I m;- le, in company wih several friends, an excursion
to Arlesheim, which is a small but pleasant place, almost four miles from Basle. Wc
had the honour of dining with the baron de Ligertz, one of the canons. After a repast,
no less elegant than agreeable, our host politely accompanied us to a garden styled The
Hermitage, about a quarter of a mile from Arlesheim ; which was laid out at the joint
expence of the baron and of Madame d'Andlau, the bailifTs lady, with a view to employ
the poor in a time of great scarcity, and to provide walks for the inhabitants of the town ;
the grounds are very extensive and pleasant. The walks are carried along the sides of
the rocks, which are richly wooded, and through a delightful semicircular plain ; bound-
ed by fertile hills, and watered by a small lake, the borders of which are peculiarly wild
and picturesque. Several caverns, hollowed and arched by the hand of nature, add to
the romantic singularity of the scenery; while many transparent streams, conveyed from
a considerable distance, fall in small cascades, or bubble from the ground like real
springs. A fastidious observer might perhaps remark of this enchanting spot, that in a
few circun^fpnces nature has been too much sacrificed to art; and that there are some
buildings less calculated to please than to surprise.
An elegant inscription for this charming hermitage was extemporarily composed by
professor Oberlin of Strasburgh, one of our party.
HOSPESAMICE-
HASCEDELICIAS-
NATURiEDEBES-
DEBESINDUSTRIiE-
BALBINiEABANDLAV-
HENRICIALIGERTZ.
I shall close this letter with an account of my journey from Basle to Bienne, through
the vallies of Lauffen, Dclmont, Munster, and St. Imier, a tract of country in the
bishopric of Basle, which is not inferior in beauty to the most delightful parts of Swit-
zerland.
I M
AND IN THE COUNTRY 01 THE GHISONi.
703
abbey of
ant situa-
)t merely
itituted a
ed a large
u'li I was
l>ranches
vres and
n of large
lis board,
t is curi-
nd withia
heir tinic
possess
iod of the
upied by
.ritsheim,
and chap-
excursion
sle. Wc
a repast,
yled The
the joint
;o employ
the town ;
le sides of
i; bound-
liarly wild
re, add to
eyed from
like real
:, that in a
are some
iposed by
through
ry in the
of Swit-
We quitted Basle curly in the morning, and passed through a fertile plain watered
by the Birs, and bounded by two chains of" the Jura ; one whereof terminates abruptly,
supportinpr on its summit the castle of Wertenburgh. As we continued our route, the
plain gradually narrowed, the mountains approached each other, and we entered the
rich valley of Lauffen, enclosed between the rocks, sprinkled with groves of oak and
beech, and exhibiting many romantic points of view. Lauft'en, which gives name to
the valley, has its own magistrates, and inferior courts of justice. The natives arc
industrious : those who are not employed in agriculture gain a comfortable livelihood
from making cloth, spinning yarn, and knitting worsted stockings. Tlif; inhabitants oi
the valley talk German, and those of Sautier, a snjall neighbouring village, French ;
which language is spoken through the vallies of Delmont, Munster, and St. Imier.
About three leagues from Lauffen we came to a narrow pass, entered the valley of
Delmont, near Sautier ; quitted the high road, and gently ascended to Delmont,
which stands pleasantly on an acclivity, backed by a ridge of rocks embrowned with
firs.
In this small town reside the provost and canons, who compose the chapter formerly
established at Munster ; which was removed here, in 1630, on the introduction of the
reformed religion into the valley of Munster. At the extremity of the town is the
episcopal palace, built, in 1718, by Conrad Baron of Reinach, and bishop of Basle:
it commands a fine view of the adjacent country. The bailiff, who holds his court in
this town, has jurisdiction over the vallies of Delmont and Munster. In criminal pro*
ceedings he arrests and examines, and can inflict small penalties for trifling misde-
meanors; but in all cases of notoriety, the delinquent is either tried at Porentru, or
the bailiffs sentence must be confirmed or amended in that supreme tribunal. Civil
causes are first adjudged in the provincial courts ; from whose decision an appeal lies to
the episcopal tribunal at Porentru, and from thence to the imperial chambers of Wetz-
lar or Vienna. Delmont contains eight hundred inhabitants, xi'ho are all Catholics : they
have their own magistrates and inferior tribunals.
About a mile from Delmont I stopped at Corrandelin, a small village in the Catholic
district of the valley of Munster, in order to examine an iron foundery belonging to
the bishop. The ore is drawn from the valley of Delmont, near the villages of Corou,
Wick, Recolens, and Sepres ; it is taken from the ground in small pieces, seldom
larger than a pea. The director informed me, that it is usually founrl in that state, and
very rarely in masses. The largest mass he ever remembered to have seen was ten feet
long, two thick, and two broad. He added that the mountains in the neighbourhood
abound with ore, which would yield considerable quantities of iron, if suflicient charcoal
could be procured for the furnaces. As he was but lately appointed director, he could
not give any accurate intelligence concerning the annual quantity of iron smelted in
this foundery ; but informed me, in general, that the different ores yielded altogether
two thirds of pure mineral, the quality whereof was extremely fine, and scarcely inferior
to the best sort exported from Sweden
Corrandelin, together with the villages 'jf Chatillon, Rossemaison, Vellerat, Cour-
chappois, Corbaon, Mervellier, and Elay, though connected, in regard to ecclesiasti-
cal affairs, with the valley of Delmont, form i'lait part of the valley of Munster, which
is called the Catholic, or lower district. It is denominated the Catholic district, be-
cause the inhabitants are exclusively of the Romish church ; and lower district, be-
cause it is situated unter den felsen, or below the ridge of rocks which separate it from
the upper, or protestant district. Before I proceed further, it will be necessary to de-
scribe the general divisions of this valley, and the civil and religious imraimities of the
I! g» '«lgUff*BWWig*
704
COXE's TRAVEL!; IN SWITZERLAND,
I (
natives, that you may be enabled to comprchcntl its complicated topop;raphy and cu-
rious political state, by which, though subject to the bishop of Basle, it is under the
protection of the canton of Bern.
The valley of Munster, or Moitier, extends from the valley of Delmont to Pierre
Pcrtuis ; and is included in that part of the bishop's dominions which lie within the
German empire. But, as the inhabitants have, for above three hundred years, been
under the protection of Bern, the valley is considered by many authors as forming part
of Switzerland. It is divided into two principal districts ; the Catholic or lower dis>
trict, which lies at the extremity of the valUy of Delmont, and comprises the eight
villages above-mentioned ; the protestant or upper district, which stretches from the
chain of rocks near Coirandelin, to Pierre Pcrtuis, its southern boundary ; and con-
taining, 1, the greater valley, or valley of Tavannes; and 2, the lesser valley, which is
subdivided into Grand-\'ai, or the great valley, and the little valley, or the valley of
Sornctan.
The inhaljitants of both districts are coniburghers with the canton of Bern. The
first treaty of coniburghership was contracted in 1484. In that year, Bern and the bishop
of Basle respectively supporting two candidates for the provostship of Munster, the for-
mer took possession of the whole valley, and exacted homage from the inl^abitants.
These disputes being compromised at the treaty of Corrandelin, Bern restored the val-
ley to the bishop on the following conditions : that the inhabitants should be maintained
in all their privileges ; continue as comburghers with Bern, under the protection of
that republic ; remain neuter in case of a war between Bern and the bishop ; and fol-
low the standard of Bern, when engaged in hostilities against any other power. This
treaty of comberghership, renewed at different intervals, has excited frequent disputes
between Bern and the bishop, and particularly in 1705 and 1711 occasioned an open
rupture. These disputes were finally adjusted at the pacification of Arau ; when the
bishop ratified the treaty of comburghership, confirmed all the rights and immunities
of the inhabitants, and consented to the mediation and interference of Bern.
The affairs of religion excited for some time no less contest between the bishop and
Bern, than the treaty of comburghership. The reformation being adopted, in 1531,
by a considerable number of the inhabitants in the valley of Munster, civil commotions
ensued ; Bern interi'ered in behalf of the protestants, and the bishop protected the an-
cient church establishment. It was at length amicably settled between both parties ; that
the majority of each parish should Ireely decide, whether the inhabitants should profess
the Roman Catholic or the reformed religion; and that the chapter of Munster should
continue to receive the tythes, on condition of discharging the salaries of the protestant
ministers. In consequence of this rational compromise, the eight villages, which now
form the lower district, voted for the mamtenance of the Catholic religion ; and the
parishes of the upper district for the reformed church. Accordingly the two persua-
sions were respectively established in these two districts ; the chapter retained its estates
and tythes, and quitting Munster, where the new doctrines were admitted, retired first
to Soleure, and afterwards settled at Delmont : but, as several protestants and Catholics
continued promiscuously to inhabit the two districts, disturbances were occasionally re-
newed. Nor were the religious differences entirely composed till the peace of Arau ;
which enjoined, that all the members of the two persuasions should be filially separated ;
that all the inhabitants of the upper district, who then professed or should hereafter
profess the Catholic religion, should retire to £lay ; and that, in the same m.inner, the
protestants in the lower district should remove to the upjier district. Since this period,
the most perfect harmony has subsisted between them.
AND IS THE COLNIKV O;
IHt CntSON'J.
70:.
By virtue of the alliance uitli Bern, that n puhlic annually deputes one of its tnagis-
trates and an ecclesiabtic to this vuIIlj-. 'I'Ik: nia};iblratc iufiuircs if the civil and rcli
gious immunities have bti ii preserved invit^iate ; ihc ecclesiastic who is called inspecioi
of the churches in the valley of Minister, examines into the state of the church disciphnc,
and distributes among the inhabitants (j1 'lie Upper district catechisms and psaUers. Bern
also approves the nomination of the ministers to the vacant benefices, some ni whom
are appointed and paid by the bishop, others by the chapters of Delmont and Bellelay ;
as the bishop or chapters possess the tythes in the respective parishes.
Soon after quitting Corrandelin, I entered the Protestant district through a pass be
tween two rocks, which nearly approach each other, and just leave an opening sulhcient
for the river Birs and the road, and continued along a narrow glen, about iour miles m
length. The road winds above the impetuous Birs, and at the bottom of rocks ol
white limestone, of inaccessible height, and though in most places absolutely perpendi-
cular, yet agreeably feathered with trees, particularly towards their summits, which
overhang, and scarcely admit the light of the sun. In the midst of this glen is La
Roche, the first Protestant village in the valley of Munster ; the houses stand on both
sides of the Birs, where the rocks recede a little, and present a genUc slope.
On issuing from this glen, we entered a fertile plain encircled by hills, m the midst
of which is situated the village of Munster or Moitier ; it takes that appellation from
the chapter of canons, who, upon the reformation, (juitted this place ol their resi-
dence, and settled at Delmont. .
About half a mile from Munster we came into another glen, near three miles in
length : it is called Chaluet, of a similar nature with that which we traversed between
Corrandelin and the plain of Munster, but still wilder and more craggy, deeper, and
more obscure. It is also divided by the Birs, which rushes through it with great impetu-
osity ; and is so narrow, that the road occupies the whole space between the torrent
and the mountain, and the wheels of our carriage frequently on one side brushed the
rock, and on the other ran close to the precipice which overhangs the river. This
causeway, over broken cr^gs and steep precipices, does honour to the prince who car-
ried it into execution. An inscription, which i observed near a bridge in the midst of
this obscure glen, may perhaps seem exaggerated to a person unacciuuinted with the
natural impediments of the country ; but to me on the spot appeared strictly consonant
to truth :
Josephus Gitlielmus
Ex Rinchnis de Baldcnstein
Basiiiensium Episcopus Princeps
Fiam Feterihiis Inclusam
Rupibus et Claustris Montium Riiptis
Birsa Pontibus Strata
Opere Romanis Digno
Aperidt.
Anno. /). JSLDCQ.LIL
Although in various parts of Switzerland I had frequendy observed the justness of
the remark, that in all deep vallies which intersect the mountains, the salient angles on
one side alternately correspond with the cavities on the other; and that parallel strata
of rock answer to each other, in all directions and at all heights ; yet I never saw this
fact more strongly exemplified than in the two ridges of lime-stone bordering this glen.
VOL. V. 4 X
il-
700
COXE*S TRAVULS IN SWIIZERLANB,
'^Hii
They arc oi u stupendous height ; and the strata horizontal, inclined, or almost (iCt-
pcndicular on one side, arc exactly similar and of the same thickness on the other : a
circumstance which, joined to the corresponding; situation of the angles, seems to prove,
that they were formerly united, and either rent asunder by a sudden convulsion, or se-
parated by the gradual attrition of the waters.
At the extremity of the Chalu-t we entered another plain, well cultivated, and agree-
ably spotted with vilhiges ; and arrived towards the close of the evening at Molleray,
where we passed the night. The |)eople ap|)e;ir happy and contented, And arc ex-
tremely industrious. Tlie greater part are employed in agriculture ; a few, encouraged
by their neighbours of Locle and Chaux de Fond have lately introduced several trades
into these niountains ; and Bc41eval, a small neighbouring village, already contains five
watchmakers.
I'rom Molleray we continued along a fertile plain by the side of the Blrs ; through
several pleasant and well looking villages, of which Tavannes, in German Dachfeld, is
the largest. In about two miles we arrived at the extremity of the plain, which is
closed by a rock, throi'(;h which opens the celebrated pass called Pierre Pertuis. At
the bottom of this rock, the Birs bursts from the ground in several copious springs, and
turns two mills within a few paces of its principal source.
Pierre Pertuis is a large arched aperture through a solid rock, about thirty feet long,
forty-five broad, and thirty high in the lowest part, which some aver to have been form-
ed by nature, others by art. A Roman inscription over the arch, extremely defaced,
has given sufficient employment to the ingenuity of antiquaries. Having seen several
lac-similes, greatly ditfering from each other, I copied it as exactly as the height would
permit.
WMINI AVGS
CTA PER 1
0\ VM PATER.
IVI COL. HELV.
of this inscription many solutions have been attempted ; but the most probable are
the two following :
Numini Augttstorum via facta per Titumdunnium Paternum II virum Colon Ilelvet.
Others read, permontem diirvum Paternus.
Both these solutions imply, that a road was formed through die mountains by Pater-
nus, a duumvir, during the reigns of Marcus Aurelius and Venus. From the latter
explanation, per montem durvum, some antiquarians have endeavoured to prove, that
he cut through the rock ; and consequently, that the arch is the work of art, not of
nature : while others maintain, that it by no means follows, even from this reading,
that the rock was pierced by order of Paternus : but merely that the road was carried
through the rock.* On examining the inscription with attention, the words which
antiquarians have supplied, to support their particular systems, are extremely doubtful ;
and to me, who observed the arch without partiality to an hypothesis, it appeared to
have been originally a great cavern, either totally formed by nature, or, if assisted
* The reader, who wishes to examine this subject with attention is referred to Schsefflin's Alsatia
Jllustrata, and to a dissertation on the subject published by Buxtorf.
m.
AND IN THE COUNIKV 01' lUE ORtSON:^.
(07
by nrt, that only a small part of its southern rxtrcmity was opened by the labour of man.
The Houtlicrn extremity of Pierre IVrtuis leads iritothe valle) of St. Imicr, sometimes
called Bjiguel, whieh comprises the bishop's dominions lyin(( in Switzerland. The in
habitants are Protestants, and {governed by a bailifl'anpointed by the bi-ihop. He resides
ut Courtelari ; but his authority is exceedingly limited by the various privilejres, both
civil and religious, possessed by *he natives. Their religious immunities, conlirmed by
the bishop, arc guaranteed by the four reformed cantons. The whole district lies within
the Jura mountains, and is fertile in pasture : the inhabitants arc industrious.
On arriving at the extremity of mount Jura, a sudden prospect burst upon our view,
commanding the undulating country fertilized by the Aar, backed by that majistie
chain of Alps which extends beyond the frontiers of Savoy. Descending gently into
the plain with this glorious prospect before us, and which was heightened by the lumi-
nous splendour of the mid-day sun, we crossed the Sure, and finished our delightful ex
pedition at Bienne.
From Pierre Pertuis to Diennc, a superb causeway is carried along a continual descent
for six miles ; it winds through thick forests, and overhangs the deep abyss, in which
the Sure, a turbid and impetuous torrent, precipitates its course, always roaring, and fre-
quently unseen, in its rocky channel.*
• Tlic whole bialiopric of Basic is now annexed to France. In \ 7<i2 their troops ovcrr.in the couM«
try of Porentru, or the (iermun piirt, uniler the pretence of deiivcrinjj tlie nutives from shivery, und
took poBscssioa of the fumuus puss of Pierre Pertnis. Tliis district was ceded lo France by the treaty
of Campo Formio, and is formed into the department of Mont Terrible.
In December 1798 the Helvotic part of tiie territory Wiis entered by the French general St. Cyr;he
took possession of it in the name of the republic, declaring that France succeeded to the property,
dominions, ri|{hts, and prerogatives of thr; bishop.
This district was also annexed to the department of Mont Terrible; and the proclamation of Men-
gaud to the unoffending natives, which subjected their country to the dominion of France, is a combi-
nation of arrogance, insult, and mockery.
"Peace anil safety to all his friends ! Mengaud, commissary of the executive directory, to the in-
habitants of all the countries not yet occupied by the French republic, dependencies upon the old
bishopric of Basle, on the left bank of the Kliin<;,
« Citizens !
" The re-union of a part of the old principality of Porentruy, eqiiully decided the incorporation of
your country with the French republic.
" This procecdingof France is that of a free people, 8ul)stitutcd to the ri!j;hts of a government against
Nature, which overwhelms you. And because the exercise of those rij^lits, become ours, did not
sooner take place, by purging them of all that is incompatible with the dignity of man, it does notfol-
low,that we have forgotten that you are still in chains. We come to break them.
" Happier than yuur fathers, whose blood flowed in the wars which founded the different species of
government in Switzerland, and which have oidy bequeathed you a burthensome and degrading ex-
istence, you are at length going to enjoy the blessings of Providence, who only created men to make
them members of one and the same family.
" You knew nothing but tithes, corvees, he. ; you had only priests, nobles, and privileged persons :
your commerce, your industry, your arts, in short your very subsistence, all bore the stamp of the sa-
cerdotal despotism so dexterously combined with a no less odious tyranny. Now you are men : li-
berty and equality will no longer permit among you any otlier distinction than that of merit, talents,
and virtue. Called all indiscrintinately to the helm of the society, in the support and safety of which
you are all equally interested, your subsistence will in future be secure, the granaries of the French
republic being the property of all its children. Your trade, encouraged within, protected without,
will no longer be shackled. Industn*, the arts, agriculture, will receive encouragements to be ex-
pected only from a nation victorious, free, powerful, and generous, enlightened on the nature of rights,
and on the manner of exercising them.
"Learn to appreciate these advantages, and merit them by turning a deaf car to the interested and
trcachcrQys insinuations of the evil-minded, and fools, whoeiuleuvour to appreciaie llicin,aiul to mis-
lead you.
4x2
i
1
I
I-
«.»*
li
70.«
<'0Xt*8 1 RAVELS IN 9WITZ£RLAN1)«
LF.T'l'KH XIX.
'/7/f Toxi'ii of liienne*
TIIK small territory of Dicnnc, containinpr scarcely six thousand inhabitants, lic!i \yc-
uviiM till- lake and a chain of the Jura mountains; it is surrountlid hy the cantons of
Hi rn and Sokuro, the bishopric of B isle, and the principality of Ncuchatcl. The town
is situated at the foot of the Jura, and at a little distance from the lake ; which is here
about nine miles in lenfijth, and four in breadth : the borders aif picasinj? and picturesque ;
and the town of Nidau forms a very beautiful object upon its eastern side.
The bishop of Basle is the sovereign of this little state : his power, formerly consi-
dtruble, is at present exceedingly limited. Indeed the constitution of Biennc is of so
very peculiar a nature, that I know not well by what name it can be distinguished: it
cannot properly be called either a limited monarchy, or an independent republic , but
seems rather to be a mixed government, partaking somewhat of both.
The bishop of Basle receives, upon his promotion to the "" , the homage of the citi-
zens and militia of this town, with all the apparent ceremonia. of the most absolute sub-
mission ; but at the same time he confirms, in the strongest manner, all their privileges
and franchises. He is represented bj a mayor of his own appointing, whose power and
ofHcc consist in convoking, and presiding in, the little council, as the chief court of jus-
tice ; in collecting the suftVages, and declaring the sentence ; but without giving any
vote himself. And, although justice is carried on, and executed, in the name of the
bishop, yet neither that prince nor the mayor has the prerogative of pardoning criminals,
or of mitigating the sentence. All causes, civil as well as criminal, are brought before
this council in the first instance ; and, in more important proceedings, an appeal lies to
the sovereign council : in both cases, each party chooses a member of the council to act
as his advocate ; which office he is obliged to discharge without fee or recompence.
The sovereign's revenue amounts only to about ^^ 300 a year ; but mean as his civil
list is, it is still more considerable than his power ; for he docs not possess the least share
of the administration. The legislative authority resides in the great and little councils
combined : the former consists of forty members, and the latter, in which the executive
power is vested, is composed of twenty-four ; the members of each must be married
men. Both these councils elect their respective members ; so far the constitution is
entirely aristocratical. The burgomaster or chief of the regency, is chosen by the two
councils, and presides at their meetings ; he continues in office during life ; but he, as
well as the several magistrates, must be confirmed annually by the two councils. The
salaries annexed to these posts are exceedingly moderate, and indeed the general expen-
ces of government are so very small, that, in proportion to them, its revenues may well
be considered as abundantly ample.
It appears, therefore, that this Protestant republic, notwithstanding the sovereignty of
its Catholic bishop, enjoys in the fullest extent the power of imposing taxes, contract-
«• Wc come among you as fri'inds. Wc are yoisr brothers. Do not be afraid of any ill treatment.
Persons and property shall bo protected, us muth as the enemies of liberty shall be oppressed. The
most exact and strict discipline shall be observed by the warriors, who never had, nor ever will have,
any other enemies than those of liberty. Such are the orders of the Executive Directory.
'« Menoaud, Commissioner of the E^iecutive Directory."
..IT—;—. u-j:atfr-»«!'JW»r,?'i''^ **>■*•
AMI IN IHi; Cni/NIRV OF 111 C (.ItlSONU.
7()U
», lies bc-
mtons of
'lie tomi
h is here
urcsquc ;
\y consi.
is of so
shed: it
>lic, but
the citi-
lite sub.
rivilcges
nvtr and
t of jus-
t'ing any
e of the
■iminals,
It before
il lies to
il to act
lice.
his civil
ist share
councils
ecutive
married
ution is
the two
: he, as
. The
expen-
ay well
^ntyof
ntract'
lattnent.
d. The
ill have,
;ctory,"
ing nilianccs, declaring]; war and ix arc ; and, in short, of exercising every other net of
absdlnteand ind( pendent lef^isluiion. 'i'his singidar constitution is guaranteed by Hern,
Friburgh, and Soleiire, with whom the town is closely allied ; in eonHi(|uenceof which,
it becomes a member of the Helvetic eonfedi racy. This alliance between those cantons
and the tow n ol Hienne, is of a superior nature to that of the same cantons with the
bishop ol IJasle : for the town enjoyt* the right of sending deputies to every gene-
ral diet, ordinary and extraordinary ; whereas the bishop dots not possess the same
privilege.
The language of the country is a provincial German ; but, as the territory borders
upon the principality of Neufchatel, the inhabitants speak also a corrupted French.
They are a very active and industrious people ; several manufactures arc established in
the town, which, considering its size, carries on a tolerable trade.
I have often had occasion to observe, that the middling class of people in Switzerland
are far more intelligent than those of the same rank in any other country. Accf)rdingly,
I invited last night my landlord of the Crown inn to sup with me ; and found him by no
means disposed to be a silent guest. He gave me a long account of the late ceremony,
when the citizens did homage to their new bishop. I was pleased to hear him expa-
tiate, with all the enthusiasm of national pride, tipon the beauty and grandeur of the
scene ; the magnificence of the procession ; the number of spectators, as well strangers
as natives, who were assembled ; together with the entertainments and balls that were
given upon that occasion. By the lofty terms in which he spoke of this procession, you
would have imagined, at least, that he had been describing the coronation of the em-
peror of Germany, or the king of Fraoce ; and, in truth, to an inhabitant of Bienne,
whose government is administered without the least degree of external pomp, and
where luxur) has as yet made but little progress, the ceremony must have appeared a
very striking spectacle. My host's narrative recalled to my remembrance the accounts
of those ancient feudal sovereignties; when the great vassals of the crown did homage
to their liege lord; and, while in terms they promised him unlimited obedience, main-
tained in fact, every essential of independence.
I have been amusing myself in some pleasant walks, that lie by the side of the lake,
which is here prettily skirted with country houses. In my way I passed over a plain
between the town and the lake, which the sovereign i:ouncil, by a kind of agrarian law
that docs honour to the legislature, lately allotted, in distinct portions, to each burgher,
for his own particular use ; and it is entirely laid out in little kitchen-gardens. The ge-
neral government, indeed, of this inituature state, is well administered. It has lately
adopted the liberal policy of conferring the burghership at an easy rate: a wise regula-
tion, which cannot fail of increasing the population of the town, and extending its com-
merce.
I know your sentiments much too well, my dear sir, to apologise for calling your
attention in the present instance, as in some others, to these diminutive commonwealths.
The various modifications of government, into which civil society is divided, is a spe-
culation that will always uflTurd matter both of entertainment and reflection, to a philoso-
phic mind ; and 1 am persuaded, that you consider the meanest spot of this globe con-
secrated by liberty, to bean object worthy, not only of your curiosity, bet your venera-
tion.* 1 am, 8cc.
* Bienne, which forms an important pass into the Swiss territories, was occupied by the French on
^he 8th of February 1798, and annexed to France as subject to the bishop of Basle, whose rights they
'^
I i
<'.h
It:
7i«
COXK'e TRAVRIS IH IWITXtlLAN t>,
LETTllU XX.
The Town and Canton of Snlcure..,.F)rtail nf the Govrrnment 4ncient and J^tv.'
J}ur^hera.....4$3fmUy of the Jiojitngarten.
THK direct road from Uislc to Si»k'iirrlicH thrmiixh the midfil of the Jura mountains,
f\\()\\\r the romantic vulc ol' Uahtal, wliich is n markahlc lor its fi rtilify. The road from
flicinic to Solcnrc tra\crscs a ucll-oiiltivattd v.illiy, waJcrcd hy the Aar, at the foot of
a |)ik((l ridge, uhich forms a liraiich ofmoiiut Jura; its bidcH, from the bottom to the
summit, are so embrowned with overhanging forests oi pine and fir, as to exhibit only
occasional intervals of naked rock, beds ol torrents, and a few solitary apeckH of pasture,
and are ho wild and steepas, within the extent of live ieagnes, scarcely to display thcap.
pearance of a single house, or a trace of the slightist ibot- way. Near Soleurc this cham
of the Jura, called Weissenstein, a[)rnptly dnninishes in height, becomes graduully
sloping, and is checpiered to the summit with fields of corn and pasture.
aBsumcd in cnnHr(|(icii(-.L- of havini; Hci/.r(l his tcrritorici. It U dKTicultto decide wiicthcr the French
accounlHof ihc Hiiziirc of iliiH iiitiei'i:|)ul)lic, arc inuru barl(.'iii|Uf or iiiHuitiit^ :
" 20 I luriokt. ...The day before yii»lt'ril.iy,.il hulf past four in the ufiernoun, the French repubiicanH
under the tomniandof ^enerul Noiiviou unived at the ^.itcitof I'lieiiDe, und were iiut l)y the twocoun-
cih, who|)uur« <l fortii their \o\vh for the re-iinionto tlie y^vv.d nation After a sliort interview, the re-
piiblic.aiH entered the t(>\vn,driiMiH hcutinf^and cohiiutt l^yih^; und on their .irrlval at the town-house,
the ({ener„l reudllie pruciainalion, in the name of the Frencli republic, which produced a tturprising
cflect. Tlio<»e wliu were Heduced by llieoliffurchy of Uern were »ti'U> k inotiunlcsH with astonishment ',
but, on reioveriiijj their seimeH, tiny could not help declaring that Wisdom herself had dictated the
proclamation During a space of four hundred years nu troops had been seen in the town of Uiennei
the imprcHbion, therefore, was deeply felt How f^lorious is tlie triumph of virtue and friendship !
*' The brave (reneral Nouvion has already Ruined all hearts. His mildness, wisdom, und reptiblicnn
virtue, will nuikea deeper impression on the Helvetic people than the terrible and always victorious
bayonet. 1 rejoice to hear him exclaim, "Without murals, without virtue, there is no true happU
ncbs!" tortus Uacine observes,
" La gloire des mech.mts en un moment s'eleint."
« Citizen Bresson constitute<l mayor of Dienne by the French government, has acquired by his mild*
ncss und civism the general confidence and love ot the inhabitants. He has sever.d times appt ared in
th council, decorated with the national scarf. To him we owe the h.>ppy disposition of the people.
To-morrow we sh.dl solemidy plant the tree of liberty Lon>ij live the Republic I"
The account of this ceremony is thus detailed in another letter:
'< Announce to the French republic Uie solemn ceremony of planting the tree of liberty, which took
place at eleven in the morning.
"The republican phalanxes, led by general Nouvion, assembled in the square before the town*
house, and were met by the French nt.iyor and the muj^istracy. Instantly the tri-colour flag waved
on the town-house, und warlike music struck up. Several energetic harangues, by the general, the
mayor, and many citizens botn of Bienne and France, made the deepest impreshion. Every sentence
breathed the purest civisnt and the mildest philanthropy, Futrioiic songs were then sung, a grand
dinner was given by the general, and toasts drank to the immortality of Uie great nation, and to the
wishcd-for union ol the republic of Bienne to the tirst republic of the world. The fLStival was termi-
nated by a ball, which continued the whole night, and every thing was conducted with the greatest
decorum, and the most pleasing fraternity prevailed. The general was present for a short time, and
his heart was penetrated with the view of this delightful picture ; all feeling souls experienced the
most exquisite sensations. The joy uf the people was announced by a brilliant illumination, allego-
rical devices and patriotic songs. Beautiful young women appeared at the ball decorated v/ith tri-
colour ribbands and sashes. What a noble U'iuinph fur the French republic is that made by fricnd-
nhip and sweet fraternity 1" - Monitcur, I3tli Ventiose (8th March.)
AM) IN TlliC COt/VTIlY Of rill CNIIONI.
711
ind AVtt'
ountnin»,
oad from
ic foot of
im to the
libit only
fpiisturc,
ly the iin-
thifi chum
grudually
he French
cpublicanH
twocuun-
w, the rc«
iwi)-hou>0|
siirpiiiting
IliHillllUIlt ',
ctiitcd tlie
if nic-iinci
idHliip!
I'cptiblu-an
vicloriuiiB
rue happi<
y his mihl-
ppi .ircd in
he pcopl«.
vhich took
the town-
Li^; wuved
:ueral, the
' sentence
;, a grand
and to the
vus termi-
c greatest
time, and
cnced the
m, allcgo-
v/itli tri-
by fricnd-
h March.)
Solftirp is plrnsnntly nitiiatrd upon the Aar, uliith here cxpantfs itn hittiks luid opens
into u iiwv and hroad ri\cr. I will nf)t cxrrt the priviUj^e of a truvilltr, arul ttll ym,
what sonu' extrava^;unt tintii|tiarics do not scrnpk* to aMcrt, that it was hiiilt U\ the pn*
triareh Ahnham; Ixit yon will have no dillicult), |)erhapH. in hclievin^^ what othtrH
maintain, that it uas one ni i\\i twelve towns uhioh were- destroyed upon the emij;m-
tion ol the original inhaliitants into Oanl. It appears prohahle, from a f^rcat number
of inseripiionit, medals, and other anti<|uities, which have been found in the neighbour-
hood, dut it was rc.pcopli-d by a Homan colony ; and it certainly wan u Roman station,
aH its ancient uppillation, Castrum Salodutensc, inijilies. During that period of barbar-
iHin which sneceedid the downfall of the Unman empire, it was sacked and destroyed
by those northern nations who overran the grcr.icst j)art f)f Kurop<*. Front the tune
of its re-establishment, until its admission into the Helvetic confederacy In 14H1, its
state was similar to that of many other imperial towns, which accpiired a gradual acccH-
sion of territory, and, after various struggles, finally secured independence.
Sokure isuhmall but extremely neat town, surrounded by regular stone t'ortincutions,
erected in the beginning of the i)resent century ; the walls enclose scarcely more than
fifty square acres, and, inchuhng the suburbs, contain about four thousand souls.
Among the most remarkable objects of curiosit) in the town is the new cluirch, w hich
Was begun in 17C2, and finished in 1772; it is a noble edifice, of whitiith gray stone.
drawn from the neighbouring quarries, which is a species of rude marble, and receives
a good polish. The lower part of the buildiag is of the Corinthian, the upper of the
composite order : the facade, which consists of n portico, surmounted by an elegant
tower, presents itself finely at the extremity ol' the \)rincipal street. Pizoni was the
architect, and the expence amounted to at least /^B(),000 ; u considerable sum for so
small a republic, whose revenues scarcely surpass /■12,000 ner annum. The interior is
simple yet elegimt, and decorated with a few modern paintings of inconsiderable merit,
of which the most esteemed is the last supper, by Curvi, u Roman artist. A picture
by Rubens and his scholars, in the church of the Cordeliers, and one by La Suer, in
that of the Capuchins, deserve perhaps to be noticed by the traveller who is fond of
the fine arts. The town-house is not in itself w*jrthy of observation, but is mentioned
only as being the place of meeting for the great council and senate.
The public prison newly constructed, is a solid • dilice oi" stone, and well adapted to
the purpose of the building ; the prisoners being confined in separate cells. Although the
penal laws arc severe in theory, yet the judicial sentences in criminal aflliirs arc so re-
markably mild, that a prisoner, on his acqnital, wrote the following inscri|)tion on the
wall of his cell : " he who is inclined to rob, and escape hanging, let him rob in the
•anton of Sokure."
The public library deserves to be mentioned, not for the number or rarity of the vo-
lumcs, but for iht literary zeal of the abbe Herman, canon of the cathedral, to whom it
owes its origin. On my first visit to this town, ui 1776, there was no public collection
of books ; but a few years ago, that ingenious ecclesiastic amassed about four hundred
volumes, obtained from government an apartment in the town- house, where he depo-
sited them, and requested to be appointed librarian without a salary. His petition being
granted, he continued to augment his little collection ; and from this small beginning
has increased it already to eleven tliousand books, among which are above a hundred-
and-fifty printed in the fifteenth century. At the two extremities of the room are in-
scribed the names of the benefactors to this library ; but there is no fund yet established
for its support or augmentation.
The abbe has also begun to form a cabinet of medals ; which, though at present
extremely small, will increase like the library. He pointed out to me a very rare medal,
%
it
( • '
rill
j> ■■
712
COXE's travels in SWITZERLAND,
discovered in digging the foundation for the new cathedral ; it is in bronze, of the
raiddic size ; on one side is the head of Septimius Severus, with the inscription, L.
Septimius Sevcrus Pius Aug* P* M* Tr* P* xviii* Cos* iii* P* P* On the reverse, a
figure sitting, before it a prow of a ship, and a gonius or Hltle boy. Great merit is due
to the abbe for laying the foundation of this library, in a town where literature is
not much encouraged ; and his disinterestedness is worthy of notice, as h.ci income does
not exceed j^lGO per annum. Tiiis learned ecclesiastic is now employed in writing an
account of Soleure at tiie period of the Reformation, and is collecting ample materials
for a complete history of the canton.
With respect to natural history, the only cabinet in the town is that formed by se-
nator Wallier : it is a small collection, but well chosen, and particularly interesting to
the naturalist who travels into these parts, because the ingenious collector has chiefly con-
fined himself to the minerals and petrifactions of the canton.
The circumjacent country is exceedingly pleasing and diversified, and exhibits several
points of view which are as agreeable as wild, and as beautiful as romantic. Among
these ue were particularly struck with the situation of the hermitage called des Croix,
about half a mile from the town, near the stone quarry : it stands in a recess between
two ridges of perpendicular rocks, u atered by a lively stream ; one extremity is closed
by a small wood, and the other opens into fertile grounds backed by the dark Jura.
Among the villas, in the environs, remarkable for their position, may be mentioned
Ricaberg, built by M. de Vigur ; it stands at the bottom of a gentle hill, declining to-
wards the winding Aar, and eommands a view of Soleure, half hid by the intervening
trees, and Blcikenberg, belonging to major de Roll, situated amid waving grounds
divided into enclosures, similar to the fertile counties of England, the Jura rising like
the highlands of Scotland, and at a distance the sublime Alps,- which characterise this
romantic country.
The canton of Soleure, which holds the eleventh rank in the Helvetic confederacy,
stretches partly through the plain, and partly along the chains of the Jura, and contains
about fifty thousand souls, including the inhabitants of the capital. The soil for the
most part, is fertile in corn, and those districts which lie within the Jura, abound in
excellent pastures. The trade both of the town and canton, is of little value, although
the situation is commodious for an extensive commerce. It is divided into eleven districts
or bailliages, called interior and exterior ; the former are governed by bailiffs, who arc
senators, and remain in the tovvujv • .ht- iatter, by bailiffs, drawn from the members of the
great council, who reside in their baiiliages.
The following is a list of (he bdllijgts, whh their average annual 'alue; the four
first are interior, the remainder exterior.
- /;750
500
.333
834
417
375
The inhabitants of the canton are Catholics, excepting those in the bailliage of Buck-
egberg, w ho profess the reformed religion. In spiritual affairs the Catholics depend on
three bishops : the greiater part of the capital, the bailliages of Laeberen and Fla-
menthal, are in the diocese of the bishop of Lausaniie, resident at Friburgh ; the re-
mainder of the capital, the bailliage of Kriegstetten, and the villages in the bailliage of
Buckegberg
£166
Beckburgh
Kriegsielleii
146
Goesgen
Laeberen, or
Oiten
Grenche
83
Dorneck
Flamenthal
62
Tierstein
Falkenstein
546
Gilgenberg
□KMBV
AND liV THE COUNTRY OF THE CHIS0N3.
/ la
ze, of the
;ription, L.
reverse, a
icrit is due
ittrature is
icome does
writing an
: inutcrials
ricd by se-
resting to
hicfly con-
jits several
Among
des Croix,
ss between
is closed
dark Jura,
mentioned
dining to«
ntcrvcning
grounds
rising like
ctcrisc this
infederacy,
d contains
•oil for the
abound in
:, although
en districts
s, who are
bers of the
; the four
£750
500
333
334
417
375
; of Buck-
depend on
! and Fla-
h ; the re-
)ailiiage of
Olten, in that ol the bishop of Constance ; while the other baillinges, and the town of
Olten, depend on the bishop of Basle. But neitlicr of these bishops can issue any or-
dinance, or even visit their dioceses, without the approbation of the senate. There
are two chapters in this canton ; one at Solcure, founded in 9.30 by queen Bertha,
widow of Rhodolph II, king of Burgundy, composed of a provost, whose salary amounts
to 3601. per annum, and of eleven canons, each of whom enjoys a revenue of 1601.
The provost is chosen by the senate, and the canons arc appointed alternately by the
pope and senate. The other chapter, of Schoenenwerth, founded by the ancient
counts of Falkenstein, consists of a provost and five canons, nominated by the senate ;
the annual salary of the provost is 1251. and of each canon lOOl. 'I'herc are also an
abbey of Benedictines, four convents, and three nunneries ; the revenues of which
amount to 2,2501.
The pnncipal charitable inst.!»* ions are, an hospital at Soleure, and another at Olten,
for the reception of burghers, subjects, and foreigners ; the foundation of Thurigan,
for old persons of both sexes, belonging to the burghership ; a foundling hospital for
orphans, and for children of poor burghers ; and the hospital of St. Catharine, for the
insane and incurables.
The only persons in the canton of Soleure, who profess the reformed religion, are
those who inhabit the bailliage of Buckegberg. In ecclesiastical affairs, the inhabitants
though subject to Solcure, are under the protection of Bern. Formerly this complica-
tion of political and religious interests created frequent misunderstandings between the
two cantons, but matters were amicably and finally adjusted, on the 18th of Novem-
ber 1681, at the treaty of Winengen. The inhabitants take the oath of fidelity, every
third year, to the government of Soleure ; but if aggrieved in their religious establish-
ment, can have recourse to Bern. The senate of Bern nominates to the vacant bene,
fices, but the priests are under the necessity of obtaining the confirmation of the chap-
ter of Soleure. A deputy from Bern presents the new minister to his parishioners ;
but the bailiff is obliged to be present at this ceremony, as deputy from the republic of
Soleure. Bern enjoys also supreme jurisdiction in criminal affairs. If a criminal is ar-
rested for any capital offcce, he is tried by the bailiff of Buckegberg, and the jury of
the bailliage ; and if condemned to death, he his delivered for execution to Bern, pro-
vided that republic defrays the cxpence of the trial. Soleure enjoys all the other rights
of sovereignty ; such as the power of levying taxes, appeals in the last resort : and
even decides all matrimonial and ecclesiastical concerns, with this proviso, that the de-
cision shall be regulated according to the articles of the treaty of Winengen. Among
the natives in the canton, several inhabiting the bailliages of Thierstein and Gildenberg
were serfs; but, in 1785, their servitude, so contrary to the principles of that equal
liberty which pervades this country, was to the honour of the present government,
abolished.
The canton furiiishes France with two companies for the Swiss guards, and several
companies in the different marching regiments, according to ^;he capitulation concluded
between the king of France and the Catholic cantons, in 1764, for the term of twenty-
five years. It has also a regiment in the Spanish service ; of which the colonel and
companies of fusileers can only be taken from the ancient burghers.
With respect to the militia, all the males from the age of fifteen to sixty, are formed
into six regiments, consisting of about 8000 men, exclusive of 240 dragoons, and the
corps of artillery, amounting to 600. The colonel of each regiment is always a senator,
and the major a member of the great council, who is usually an officer retired from
foreign service; the captains are either members of the greit council, or ancient
VOL. V. 4 Y
m
v;
713
COXE's IRAVELS TNT SWITZERLAND,
burghers ; the first lieutenants arc t^cnerally ancient burghers, while the rank of second
lieutenants and ensi{^ns is usually filled by the principal peasants.
'l'h(; militia are assembled and reviewed in May and September, and in the spring and
autumn exercised in the respective villages b"^ the under-Heutenants and ensigns. Ac-
cording to a plan of defence, regulated in K -5, between the members of the Helvetic
confederacy, tnc canion of Sf)leure is bouui .0 furnish 600 for its first contingent ; lor
this supply, llKJ men, together with officers, arc annually selected from each of the six
regiments, who arc to hold themselves in readiness to march at a moment's warning.
In case of necessity, this contingent may be doubled or tripled in the same manner. The
burghers are incorporated in the company of fusileers, and exercise themselves on Sun-
day's and saints' days, after divine service, by shooting at marks : government furnishes
powder and ball, and distributes prizes to the best marksmen. The remaining inha-
bitants of the capital and environs, who are not burghers, form a separate body, com-
manded by the captain of the town ; they are also occasionally exercised, and mount
guard on the day of St. John the Baptist, when the Rosengarten, or the general meeting
of the burghers, is assembled.
The sovereign p^wer resides in the great council, which consists of a hundred and
two members, chosen by the senate, in equal proportions, from the eleven tribes or
companies, into which the an^.ient burghers are distributed ; and in all instances, the new
member is taken from the company to which the last member belonged.
The prerogatives of the great council are, to enact and abrogate laws ; to explain
obscure parts of the constitution, and make alterations in the form of government ; to
Iv^vy taxes, declare war and conclude peace : to contract alliances, receive appeals in
ciiminal causes from the burghers of the capital, and in civil processes, above the sum
of 100 Swiss livres, or 61. 3s. to confer the new burghership ; elect the treasurer, or
fourth chief of the republic, from the ancient eleven senators ; nominate to the seven
exterior bailliages, and to the four Italian governments of Lugano, Locarno, Mendrisio,
and Valmaggia, when the appointment belongs to Soleure ; choose the deputies for the
diet of Frauenfield, and those for extraordinary meetings of the Helvetic confederacy ;
though in both these cases it is the custom to appoint a senator, and usually one of the
four chiefs, the reigning avoyer excepted, who is not permitted to be absent during the
year of his administration.
There are gwjgJBaiJjLa few supernumerary members in the great council, which cir-
cumstance^^^JCeedswHp the method of appointing the bailiffs. On the nomination of
a bailiff, ms^at in the .^i^lat council being deemed vacant, is on the next day filled up
by a menvbe^tyf the samej :ompany in which he is inscribed. At the conclusion of his
bailliagelci astin take»hifi seat, preserving his ancient rank, though considered as a su-
pernumer iy, lintjl oqi|)of he six members of his tribe makes a - acancy. To be quali-
fied for ad nisfiibiijjiittShe great council, the candidate must be twenty years of age, an
ancient bi ^gl*ff» ^^^ ^V mber of the same tribe in which the vacancy happens ; bot \i
inscribed ik a cpit^ar^ df|erent from that of his father, he must, according to a decree
member of that company during a year.
Sbles ordinarily once every month ; and extraordinarily, when
r^4jj have &eJ
eeuncil ^ei
itbfc senate,
te, or littl^^
passed in
Thegr(
convened
The
of the two _
secretary of state, who has no vote ; and ti)irty-three senators drawn from the remaining
sixty-six members of the great council, divided into eleven seniors, and twenty-two
juniors. From the seniors the two avoyers, the banneret, and treasurer, are always
chosen. Upon a vacancy among the eleven, the right of election, though residing in the
'uncil, a constituent part of the great council, is composed
Ci::^iefs of the republic, who annually alternate ; the chancellor or
AND IN THE COUNTRY OF THE c;KISONi;.
715
second
juniors, is always exercised according to seniority : the most ancient in rank among the
three junior counsellors, of the same tribe to which the late mem lier belonged, is imme-
diately appointed, or rather confirmed, by the juniors. Upon the death or promotion ol
a jtmior, his place is immediately filled up by the two avoyers and eleven seniors.
The seitate examines and digests all aflairs before they a^-e submitted to the great
council ; is entrusted with the executive power and care of the police ; receives all ap-
peals in the first instance from the inferior courts of justice?; gives judgment in all civil
processes not exceeding the value of 100 Swiss livres ; and possesses supreme and final
jurisdiction in criminal causes, except those in which a burgher of the capital is concern-
ed, who may appeal to the great council.
The senate also nominates, either directly or indirectlj', to most of the important
charges of the republic, and confers the principal ecclesiastical benefices ; it assembles
regularly three times a week, and is convoked on extraordinary occasions by the reign-
ing avoyer. A senator must be twenty-four years of age, member of the great council,
and drawn from the same company to which the last senator belonged.
The salaries of the principal magistrates are :
£. s.
The reigning avoyer, about ... 363
The avoyer out of office . ^ , 137 10
The seniors, each .... 46
Chancellor ..... 208
Attorney-general, including his salury of senator - 100
The juniors, each - - - - 37 10
Government draws its principal revenues, which do not exceed 12,5001. per
ann. from the following sources. 1. A tax, called the tax for fortifications, laid on the
funds of the tribes and monasteries in the town, and on those of parishes in the bailliages.
2. Tythes, and rentes foncieres belonging to the state. 3. Tolls. 4. Excise on wine.
5. Interest of money placed out in the canton and in foreign countries. 6. Monopoly
of salt. 7. Revenues from the bailliages. 8. Subsidy from France; about 11081.
9. Sundry small sources, such as demesnes, estates, salaries of vacant benefices, &c.
The principal departments of government are, 1. The tribunals ; which comprise the
inferior courts of justice, and the secret council, consisting of seven members, namely,
the two avoyers, the banneret, the treasurer, the first senior senator, the chancellor, and
the attorney -general ; should any of these persons be absent, their places are sujiplied by
the ancient senators, according to seniority. 2. The boards of war. 3. Of the rights,
called droits regaliens. 4. Of finances, agriculture, and public buildings. 5. Of the
police. 6. Of ecclesiastiol affairs, charitable institutions, and schools.
The burphers are divided into ancient and new ; ''le ancient are alone capable of being
members uf the great council, or enjoying any share in the administration of aft'airs.
The origin of this distinction is dated from 1681. Several foreign families, which
• settled at Soleure and obtained the right of burghership, being admitted into the great
council, gave umbrage to those illustrious families w hose ancestors had, by their valour
and prudence, laid the foundation of the republic. To prevent the farther parucipa-
tion of honours and emoluments, to which they conceived themselves solely entitled,
the great council confined the offices of government exclusively to those families, which
at that epoch enjoyed the rights of burghership, until they were reduced to the number
of twenty-five. It was at the same time enacted, that these families and their descen-
dants should be distinguished by the name of ancient burghers ; and that those who
4 y iff
ll'
II'
L
nmifif
■16
COXE'S travels in SWITZERL<INI),
afterwards received the burgheiship, should be called uew burghers ; and to enforce
these regulations, that any burgher who made any proposition contrary to this law,
should be banished from the canton, and his goods confiscated.
Besides this exclusive privilege, the ancient burghers enjoy the sole right of being
appointed canons in the chapters of Soleure and Schoenenwcrth, and of holding any ec-
clesiastical benefice in the gift of the senate. But as there is at present a great deficiency
of clergymen among the ancient burghers, it will probably soon be thought necessary to
dispense with this law, and permit the new burghers, and all subjects of the canton, to
be candidates for vacant livings.
About eighty-five families possess the right of ancient burghership ; and of ihesc,
about thirty-four of the most illustrious supply the members of the great council, and
fill the various departments of government.
The rights of the new burghers consist in nominating and annually confirming the
avoyer, the banneret, and grand sauticr, or lieutenant of the police ; but as they always
choose those persons who are selected by the senate, as they exercise this priwilege in
conjunction with the ancient burghers, and as by the edict of 1681 they must retire from
the assembly, should there be any opposition, this right of election is little more than a
mere formality. In all other instances, excepting in those concerns which relate to
government, the new burghers enjoy the same privilege as the ancient, such as freedom
of trade and commerce, the property of houses and land in the capital and its district,
and are also entitled to hold ecclesiastical benefices in the gift of the chapters and indi*
viduals.
The burghers, both ancient and new, are distributed into eleven tribes or companies?,
each whereof furnishes three senators and six members of the great council. Every
person may choose the company in which he inscribes his name ; but he cannot after*
wards change it. For the purpose of obtaining a place in the government at an early
period, a young noble selects that company in which there is a probability of a vacancy ;
but should he fix upon one different from that in which his father is incorporated, he
must have been received a member during a whole year, before he can be a candidate
for admission into the great council.
The general assembly of ancient and new burghers, called Rosengarten, who meet on
the day of St. John the Baptist, for the purpose of electing or confirming the charges of
avoyer, banneret, and grand sautier, deserves to be described for its singularity, and will
convey to you some idea of those annual elections, or rather confirmations, of the prin*
cipal officers, which take place in most of these aristocraticai states.
This assembly is held in the church of the Cordeliers, and denominated Rosengarten,
or garden of roses; cither because a nosegay, which every burgher carries in his hand,
wus formerly composed of roses, or because this meeting used to be convened in the
garden of the Cordeliers, which is said to have been called the garden of roses.
About six in the morning the avoyer out of office, the senators, members of the
great council, and the ancient and new burghers, assemble in their respective compa-
nies. After the repetition of certain signals, the reigning avoyer, accompanied by the
chancellor, the secretary of the finances, and several otiier officers of state, repair, with
drums beating and trumpets sounding, from the town-house to the church of the Cor-
deliers, where, after presenting his offering upon the altar of the Virgin, he seats him-
self on a throne near the altar. Soon afterwards the senators and remaining members
of the great council appear at the head of their respective tribes ; and having presented
their offerings, the avoyer out of office places himself near his colleague on the throne.
At the conclusion oi a mass accompanied with music, all but the burghers retire, and
AND IN THE COONTRV OK TKE ORISONS.
717
the doors of the church are closed. The reigning avoycr, \vith a sceptre in his hand,
pronounces an harangue ; then delivering up the sceptre and seals, resigns his dignity,
and receives the thanks of the assembly, by the mouth of the attorney-general, for his
zeal and attention during the year of his government. Next follow, in the same manner,
the resignations of the banneret and of the attorney -general ; the former of whom is thank-
ed, in the name of the assembly, by the attorney-general, and the latter by the avoyer
who has just resigned.
This ceremony being finished, the two avoyers, bannerets, attorney-general, and an-
cient senaiors, retire from the choir to another part of the church ; and the chancellor
summoning the junior senators into the choir, pronounces the name of each ancient se-
nator, and of the attorney general, and demands whether the junior senators are pleased
to confirm them in their charges for another year. This being obtained, the chancellor
and junior senators repair to the assembly in the body of the church, where the chancellor
recites the names of the senior senators and attorney-general confirmed by the juniors,
and demands the approbation of the whole assembly of burghers. Upon this the avoyer^
who has just resigned, and all the senators, except the avoyer out of office and the ban-
neret, come into the church, and take the usual oaths. The chancellor then acquaint-
ing the assembly that they must elect the reigning avoyer ; the avoyer who has just re-
signed proposes his colleague ; the officer of state, called the Grand Sautier, cries out,
"Let all those who choose to elect the right noble A B. reigning avoyer, hold up their
hands under oath ;" and immediately notifying his election, the avoyer enters the church,
takes the oath from the chancellor, and administers it to the grand sautier. The election
of the banneret is made in a similar manner : having resigned his office, he is proposed
to the assembly by the reigning avoyer, and being accepted, gives his hand to the reign-
ing avoyer, as he iiever takes the oath but in time of war. The grand sautier is like-
wise recommended by ths. reigning avoyer, and, re-entering the church, takes the oath
to government.
At the end of these elections, several decrees of the great council are read, particularly
that which relates to the right of ancient burghership, and the election of the avoyer,
banneret, and grand sautier ; by which it is enacted, that should any opposition be made
to the regular order of appointment, the new burghers shall retire from the assembh%
and the election be vested solely in the ancient burghers.
The same magistrates are always re-elected or confirmed in their several places : the
aroyer out of office is nominated reigning avoyer ; on the death of either of the avoyers,
Ac banneret is oi course appointed to the vacant office, and succeeded by the treasurer,
after the formality of a nomination. When the ceremony is concluded, the reigning
avoyer, at the ncadof the senate, passes through a double line of troops, under arms to
the town- house, where the first magistrate and the ancient senators confirm the junior
senators ; he then returns to his own house, accompanied by the senate and members of
the great council, and is complimented first by the banneret, and afterwards by the chan-
cellor. , *r.
From this detail we may conclude, that those authors have erred who call the govern-
ment of Soleure aristo-dentocratical, for it is certainly a most complete aristocracy ; inas>
much as the supreme government resides in the great council, of which the members
are exclusively taken from the ancient burghers ; as there are only eighty-one families
which enjoy that right, and no more can be added until they are reduced to twenty-five ;
as of these scarcely more than thirty enjoy any share m the government , and lastly, as
the election and annual confirmation of the principiti ma^^istnttes is confined to the an-
cient burghers, should there be any oppoutuMi ^ the general assembl}* called Rosengar.
I
718
COXE'S TRAVnLS IN SWITZERLAND,
ten. The government, however, under whatsoever title it may be clas^ied, is mild and
Cijuitahle, and the piople are tranquil and contented.*
LETTER XXI.
Treaties with France,.,. Rrjlectiotis on Foreign Service. ' ''
THE French ambassador to the Helvetic body resides in Soleure, and distributes
those annual pensions which the king pays to the Catholic cantons. Louis the Eleventh
was the first French monarch who employed Swiss troops, and granted subsidies to the
states, since considirably atigmcntcd by his successors. The perpetual alliance which
Francis the First concluded with the Swiss cantons, soon after the battle of Marignano,
isconsidiredas the busis of every subsccjuent treaty, and greatly contributed to increase
the power of France ; the Swiss infantry aided Henry the Fourth in establisliing himself
• The tnilli of this remtirk was fully proved by the conduct of the people during the eflTervcscenCe
of the Swisii revolution. Although the ofHccB of government vt^erc exclusively confined to u small
uuinhcr of persons, and notwithstuiuling the vicinity to the canton of Basle, where disafTcction had
made a rapid progress ; ycti a few seditious persons excepted, the inhabitants of the whole canton,
both in the town and country, rallied round tlie whole constitution. Even after the French troops
were ready to enter the canton, and after the government of Bern had tamely consented to reform tlieir
constitution, the people of Soleure maiiifesled an extraordinary dread of innovation.
A printed paper from the agents ol France, under the title of the Patriots of Soleure, wus dispersed,
in which, after declaring their resointion to maintain the' religion of their fathers, and to preserve
their independence and connection with the Helvetic body, they required the union of the citizens of
the town and canton, and the convocation of a national assembly.
Tiiese insidious propositions excited general indignation ; and on the 6th of February the militia
of the canton marched to the town, the artillery was planted on the ramparts, many suspected persons
were arrested, and all the inhabitants prepared to defend tiieir liberties to the last extrctniiy.
But the magistrates, intimidated by the fluctuating counsels of Bern, and threatened with the in-
stant approach of the French, declared their resolution to adopt the new principles, and summoned
representatives of the people to arrange a new constitution. Yet these very representatives, thus
convened to alter the constitution, were positively instructed by their constituent!^ to insist that the af.-
rient form of government should be maintained in all Us parts. With a view, however, to conciliate
the French, and yet to prevent hasty innovations, a decree was issued on the 1 Ith of February, in the
name of the avoyer, great and little councils, and deputies of the towns and coiuury, »« for effecting
such alterations in the form of government as should introduce an equality of rights between the in-
habitants of the towns and those of the conupunes."
This decree was preceded by a solenui oath, taken by all the members of the government and the
deputies, «» to maintain inviolate their holy religion, as transmitted by their forefathers; to defend to
the last manj against all enemies, that precious jewel of liberty and independence, purchased with the
blood of their ancestors : and acting in the character of free Swiss, never to separate themselves from
the Helvetic conlVdenicy ; but, on the contraiy, to fulfil all the duties contracted in virtue of exist-
ing alliuuccs."
It then abolishes all distinctions between the inhabitants of the towns and cotmtry with respect to
representation and eligibility to the offices of government, and establishes a committee to arrange
with the representatives the new constitution.
It ordains that, in the mean time, the established government should continue to exist provision-
ally ; that it hhould be respected, aiid rem.iin in force until the fonnal establishment of the new con-
stitution.
But the people were so little inclined to exercise their new rights, that no steps were taken to carry
the decree into execution, and the dissolution of the ancient government was only effected by the cap-
ture of Soleure. The body ol the people manifested the greatest ardour. Seven thousand troops co-
operated with the army of Bern, and all the forces of the canton would have come forward in defence
of their country, had not the post of Lcngnau been surprised, the advanced guard at Grange defeated,
and Soleure cuplurcd.
The extraordinary circumstances which led to these events are ri laled in the imroduc lory chapter.
Schawembourg in accepting the capitulation, promised security to person* and property; but in
defiance of tliib promise, four-and-twenty villages in the vicmity were given up to plunder, the inha-
bitants were disarmed, the arsenals seized, and some of the magistrates, alter being p.uaded round the
town in barbarous triumph, were inhumanly put to death.
AND IN TItE COUNTRY OF THE ORISO>fS.
riy
s mild and
distributes
c Eleventh
idles to the
ance which
Marignano,
to increase
ing himself
ffervescentfe
d to u smull
iffcction had
t^iiole canton,
I'cnch troops
reform Uieir
usdinpcrscd,
I to preserve
ic citizens of
y the militia
ctcd pcrsonb
tiilty.
will) tlic In-
d summoned
talives, thus
It that the u«v
to conciliiite
jruiiry, in the
for effecting
ween the in-
nent and the
to defend to
ised with the
nselvesfrom
tuc of exist-
h respect to
3 to arrange
St provision-
he new con-
iken to carry
i by the cap-
id troops co-
"d in defence
ge defeated,
lory chapter,
erty ; but in
av, the inha-
ed round the
on the throne of his ancestors, repressed the conicuding Mictions during the turbulent
minorities of Louis the Thirteenth and Fotirtecnth, and distinguished themselves during
the continental wars in which France was engaged, by fidelity, valour, and discipline.
The general alliance between France and the whole Helvetic union, ratified by Louis
the Fourteenth in 1663, was to remain in force during the joint lives of that monarch
and his son the dauphin, and for eight years after the death of either. Towards the
end of his rtign, Louis, on his son's death, proposed to renew the treaty in his own and
his successors name ; but the Protestant cantou:> n.Tusiug their consent, it was concluded
only with the Catholic cantons and the republic of the Vallais.
This alliance differed from the former treaties ui three essential articles : 1, if France
was invaded, the contracted republics permitted an additional levy to be raised at the
king's expence, not exceeding sixteen thou^iiand men ; 2, if the Helvetic body, or any
particular canton, should be attacked by a fon.'ign power, the king engaged to assist them
with as many forces as were judged neccsnaiy ; and 3, should dissentions arise between
the contracting cantons, the king was, at the request of the aggrieved party, to employ
his mediation, and that failing, he bound both himself and his successor to compel the
agrcssorto abide bv the treaties concluded between the cantons and their allies. This
last article, as it authorised the interference of the king of PVanee with the politics of
Switzerland, appeared dangerous to many of the Swiss, and inconsistent with that abso-
lute independence which they had hitherto prized above all other advantages.
France having long in vain attempted to persuade the Protestant cantons to join the
alliance, for the purpose of renewing a general treaty with the whole Helvetic body, at
length succeeded, after much opposition. This important league was concluded at So-
leure in May 1777, between the king of France on one side, and the thirteen caiUons
and their allies on the other, to continue in force during fifty years. By this treaty it
is agreed, that on the invasion of France the cantons and their allies shall furnish an ad-
ditional levy of six thousand men ; and if iiie cantons or any of their allies are attacked,
the king, if required, engages to furnish them, at his own expence, with such succours
as may be deemed necessary. That article of the treaty with the Catholic cantons in
1715, which related to the mediation of the king, in case of any disputes between the
thirteen cantons, is very wisely omitted.
Before this alliance, none of the Protestant states received pensions from France ; but
by the sixteenth article, the Protestants of Glarus and Appenzel, and the town of Bienne,
agreed to accept les argents de paix et d'alliance, as these subsidies are here called. The
acceptance of pensions derogates greatly from that spirit of absolute independence,
which all the Protestant states of Switzerland have hitherto affected to profess ; and it
would have reflected much greater honour on the Swiss nation, had the whole body
imitated Zuric, Bern, Basle, and Si half hausen, in forming the league upon terms of per-
fect equality, and rejecting the proftased pensions, which give an air of venality to their
treaties with France.
It has long been a controverted question, whether Switzerland gains or loses by fur-
nishing troops, according to the tenor of her alliance with France, Spuin, Sardinia,
Naples, and Holland. It has been urged, that without these supplies to foreign nations^
Switzerland would be overstocked with inhabitants, and the ruitives compelled, like the
northern hordes of old, to emigrate for subsistence, as in many parts there is no com-
merce, and the mountain tracts cannot supply sufficient provision for the inhabitants^
In reply it may be alleged, that the Swiss do not use all the resources in their power t
commerce might be more generally cultivated and encouraged ; as there is no part
of Switzerland lar rt moved from the principal rivers and great lakes, most of which
have a direct communication with the sea.
720
COXE S inAVELS IN SWITZEHLAND,
But, to be convinced that they have not exhausted all the advantages to which they
might resort, let them look back on ancient Greece, and the immense populousness of
so confined a country ; or, what is more open to their observation, let them consider
the present state of the United provinces, and the abundance which those industrious
people enjoy on a tract of land snatched from an element perpetually reclaiming its
prior occupancy ' But the Swiss need not be reminded of ancient or foreign examples :
Geneva and St. Gallen are, for their extent, exceedingly populous ; and yet the pro-
ductions o ' linds are by no means sufficient to support all the inhabitants. Ap.
pcnzcl and ';in are entirely mountainous ; nevertheless both those districts are
remarkably \ ^ opkd, and derive from commerce and industry all the necessaries of
life in great abundance. Indeed Switzerland is so far from being overstocked with in>
habitants, that in most of the great towns there is a manifest deficiency ; and in several
parts of the country, hands arc frequently wanting for the common purposes of agricuK
turc.
These reflections seem to prove the mistaken policy of Switzerland, in letting out her
troops to foreign states. On the contrary, many circumstances may be alledged in its
favour. This practice has tended to keep up the military spirit of the Swiss, even dur-
ing a state of profound peace, which has now continued, with few interruptions, for
three hundred years. The states not only have in constant reserve, and without ex-
pence, a body of well disciplined forces, which they can reeal at a moment's warning ;
but it becomes the interest, for that reason, of those powers whom they furnish with men,
not to foment any divisions, which might render the presence of their troops necessary
at home. Add to this, that the privileges which the Swiss enjoy in France, and the
advantageous articles relating to commerce secured to them in all their treaties, seem to
strengthen the argument for continuing their military connections with that kingdom.
This argument, however, would be more conclusive, if those privileges were still pre-
served in the same latitude as was granted by the ninth article of the perpetual peace
concluded with Francis I, in 1516, and confirmed by several successive treaties. But
the case is far otherwise. The immunities have been gradually and almost impercepti-
bly violated : the Swiss merchants were subjected to the poll-tax, and fresh duties,
contrary to the tenor of their rights, imposed on theiv merchandise. During the ad-
ministration of the duke D'Aiguillon, the Swiss complaining of these infractions, a ne-
gotiation was begun at Soleure with the French ambassador, which produced, however,
no other effect than a short letter from the minister, declining to redress the grievances.
On the late renovation of the perpetual peace in 1777, it was expected that this mat-
ter of dispute would be amicably adjusted; and the count de Vergennes insinuated that
such was the intention of the court of Versailles. Many cantons, and particularly Zuric,
were principally induced by these expectations to accede to the alliance ; but not wholly
trusting to the promises of the French cabinet, it was insisted that an article explaining
and confirming the said privileges should be inserted in the new treaty. The minister,
with his usual address, eluded u direct mention of the demanded rights ; but not to lose
the confidence of the nation, at a time when he most wished to obtain it, the king en-
gaged, by the 18th article, to preserve to the Swiss those privileges and advantages to
which tliey had a legitimate right, and which they had hitherto enjoyed in France ; and
the Swiss agreed to postpone the precise determination of the nature and extent of the
said privileges to future conferences, wherein those matters should be regulated with
fidelity and equity.
It is a matter of astonishment that the Swiss were contented with so ambiguous a de-
claration, or were induced to believe that the French court would preserve to them their
legitimate immunities, in the moment when that legitimacy was a subject of contention.
AND IN THE COUNTRY OF TKK ORISONS.
721
vhich they
ousness of
n consider
ndustrious
aiming its
examples :
:t the pro.
mts. Ap.
istricts are
pessaries of
■d with in-
in several
of agricul.
ing out her
Iged in its
even diir-
ptions, for
ithout ex-
warning ;
with men,
necessary
e, and the
s, seem to
ngdom.
e still pre.
tual peace
ties. But
npercepti-
sh duties,
g the ad.
sns, a ne-
however,
vances.
this mat-
lated that
ly Zuric,
ot wholly
Kplaining
minister,
ot to lose
king en.
itages to
ice; and
nt of the
ted with
'US a de-
im their
itention.
The Helvetic body had soon occasion to repent of their credulity : for, in 1781, the
king of France issued an edict, irrevocably subjecting the Swius who possess hinds in
France to the poll tax, and to all national imposts, and laid the same duties on their
merchandise imported into France, as are paid by the merchants of other couutricfi,
cheese and linens excepted, which were taxed at a reduced value.
But a still severer blow was levelled against the Swiss in 1786 ; when, notwithstandinj:'^
the express reservation granted in the perpetual peace, the importation of their linens
was prohibited in France. The prohibition of this branch of commerce, which fur
nished employment to so many hands in various parts of Switzerland, particularly in the
cantons oi Zuric, Glarus, and Appenzel, and was almost the sole resource of the na
tives, spread a sensible ului m, but was not productive of serious consequences, after tht
first surprise and agitation, the industry of the Swiss was not abated ; and the linens
found their way into France either by contraband trade, or by contract with the French
East.India Company.
LETTER XXII.
The Canton qf Zug.
Ztig, August 5.
WE yesterday quitted Zuric,* and walked to Albis, a small village about three
leagues distant, situated near the summit of a mountain, much visited by travellers for
the variety and extent of the prospect,
VVe fortunately escaped a violent shower of rain, accompanied with a storni of thun-
der and lightning, which had threatened for some time, and began immediately upon
our arrival ; but we were well housed, and our host gave us a good supper, and an
excellent bottle of Muscat wine. VVc were abroad this morning by five, and had a veay
agreeable walk to Zug; the weather, wliitli )i(irl of late been very sultry, being cooled
by the lightning and rain. We passed over i\v f)< M (jI iliiKle rt Cappel, where Zuinglc
was slain; regretting this instance of disunion bctwrc/i ll/f: Swiss* republics, and lament-
ing the premature death of that great reformer. We pUfsOed our journey through u
pleasant country, so thickly planted with fruit-trees, ihiit i could liarJiy dislini^uish any
other sort. Indeed, we had before rciniirlttf) IJlf- jirnirifioofi number of fruit-trees in
several other parts of Sivifzerlapd, which is hi l/l'ilif i ijlinodl a continued orchard.
Zug, the capital, stands diliglilfiil)) upon the ii\\ I a beautiful lake, in a fertile
valley, abounding with corn, pasture, ai/ll wimi] 'hii- oanton formerly belong' I to
the house of Austria, and condiUM d fajthful to ihnl lult-.lll |" ;i ihr nrifrhhouring stiitts
had formed themselves into indepelJiiliU / ii 1/ w Zuiic and
Schweitz, the communication between tliobc i junUiluutcd with diflicuky ;
and by this means irequent opportunities were aliuitjut ,.; the nouse of Austria of in-
vading and harassing the Swiss. iJrider iliifH; rirciunstances, die six allied cantons, in
1351, laid siege to Zug, which was resolute I } ' ( ndrd by the inhabitants; but as
Albert duke of Austria was unable to assist them, l|je Unvn at length surrendered upon
the most honourable conditions. The gejicrosilj^ of the conquerors vv.is eqiial to tlic
* 1 have, in this part, arranged thi- prcrcding letttis 'lifftrcntly from the former editions, and ac-
cording to the journal of my tour in 178); though 1 did not at tiiut time proceed fiom Sokurc to
Zuric, yet I have thought proper to rcHumv tjie order of my fiisit journey in 1776, and to bring thi
readerback to Zuric, from whence I take my departuif , us .>efore, to Zug. The traveller whu < lUers
Switzerland at Schaffhausen, and quhs it at (icnevaor Neuchatel, will pcrliaps find this iiineruA-y from
Zuric to Basic, Bieimc, Soleurc, and thence to Bern and Lucerne, n»ore convenient thaniiiut fnins
Zuric immediately to Zug and Lucerne; *jiilc those who quit Swii/erland at Basle will prcn r the
latter.
VOL. V. i Z
I.
Mk..',.1>1M%i>JC''<.
72:2
coke's TRAVUrS IN S WITCE R L A N U.
courunc of the vaiKiuislud ; for, in coiisc(|ucncc of this submisnion, the canton of Zug
was dilivcrcd Ironi the yoke of a foivign master; olUuincd hbcrty and independence;
and was admitted into the Helvetic Confederacy upon equal terms
The governmei\t of this little canton is exceedinfi;ly complicated; and the inhabi-
tatits of the town have somen hat more infhit uce, and enjoy u greater share in the ad-
ministration of alVairs, than those of the capital burghs in the live other democratical
cantons. The supreme power resides in tlu- inhabitants of Zug, Bar, tlgeri, and Meul-
I'.ingen, who assemble yearly to enact laws and choose their magistrates. The Lundam-
man, reciprocally elected from each of the four districts, continues three years in office
when tnken from Zug, and l)ut for two years when chosen from each of the three other
districts. The general administration of affairs is entrusted to the council of regency,
composed of forty members, of whtjm thirteen are supplied by the district of Zug, and
twenty. seven selected equally from the three remaining communities. This council, as
well as the Ijandannnan, resides always in the capital.*
Oiiwald, one of our old British kings, is the tutelar saint of this place ; and in the
cluirch is his statue, with the following inscription :
Suriouis OHwalilusRcx Anj^lia: PulromiH luijus Ecclehiae.
Oswaldf was a king of Northumberland in the seventh century ; and is much re-
nowned among the monkish writers for his chastity, piety, and power of working mi-
racles. I have endeavoured to discover the connection between a British king, under
the heptarchy, and u small canton of Switzerland ; without reflecting how fruitless is
the attempt to give any reason for long established customs. In the church of Rome
saints arc easily transplanted into any soil ; and caprice, as well as superstition, may have
inclined the inhabitants of Zug to adore u saint whose name is barely known in his own
country. I am, &c.
LETTER XXIII.
■
The Town and Canton of Lucern.... General Pfiffer'a Model.
WE took boat at Zug and being rowed across the lake, which is about three
leagues long and one broad, were landed at a village in the canton of Schweit25. From
thence we walked to Kussnach, capital of a bailliage subject to Schweitz, and in our way
passed by a small chapel sacred to William Tell, erected on the spot where, it is said, he
shot th(; Austrian governor. At Kussnach we embarked upon the lake of Lucern, and
were much struck upon our approach with the fine situation of that town, and the noble
amphitheatre of mountains, which border the lake.
Lucern, originally subject to the house of Austria, was exposed to the inroads of
Uri, Schweitz, and Underwaldcnj when those cantons had secured their independence.
Her commerce to Italy was interrupted, and her citizens compelled to be continually
under arms, in order to protect their territory from incessant depredations. Under
these circumstances, the house of Austria, imprudently loading the citizens with exor-
bitant taxes, Lucern made her peace with the confederate cantons ; and, expelling the
* Zup; was the only one of the small cantons which did not send its contingent to the army, but made
ashow of resistance tothc imposition of the new constitution. On tlic 2i/th of April Zug was invested
by French troops, surrendered on the 30lh, and on the sirst of May accepted the new constitution.
t Sec an account of Oswald, who was defeated and slain in 624, by Peuda, king of the McrciiMji,
Pennant's Tour to \Valcs, vol. i. p. 2.S8.
AND IN i'llE COUNiKV OF MIC CKISON.>.
72A
on of Zug
pcndencc ;
he inlmbi.
in tijc nd-
;mocratical
md Mcut-
• Lutidam-
rs in office
hrte other
■ rcgtncy,
'-ug, and
ouncil, as
iiiul in the
much re-
»rking mi-
ng, under
fruitless is
ol' Rome
may have
in his own
out three
'• From
1 our way
s said, he
:ern, and
the noble
iroads of
>endence,
nrinually
Under
ith exor-
lling the
but made
i invested
itiition.
VIerciu»i.
Austiiun party, entered into a ptir(Ktnal alliance with Uri, Sv.hweitz, awd Untlcrw.iklcn,
and became a mtnibcr ol the Iklveli'.! union.
Tho accession of Lucern ^uve additional cndit and |m'.vtr to the e.onredcrnry, and
enabkd it to resist all the cIlurtH of u fj;rtat u'ld impl;u:al)lc < ncmy. In 1.3H() LeopoUl
duki- of Austria invadrd the canton aIiIi anuindJiisarniy, uiuri tlu' combined troops
gninid a blomly victory at Scnipach, in uhicli Lcojutld Inst Iuh lilfe. In die accoinits of
this battle, an inutanct: of private valour is icconUd, which would have dom: honoiiv
even to a Grecian or a Romm ciamc, and only ivijiiircs the pen cjf a Thuryflidcs, or a
Livy, to ecptal in fame the exploits of the most admired heroes of antiquity. The Au».
triait army, far superior in number, wns drawn up in llrm l>attali()ii, accoutred in heav)
armour, and furnished with lonpj pikes, which tin y present< ;l before tlicin. The Swiss
tn)()ps were led to the attack in ilic form of a wed^jfe, in order to (»j)en their way into
the ranks of the enemy, and to break the solidity of liic battalion. The Au?)trians nc-
vertheless continued impenetrable, till Aiiioid dc Winkelri.d rushed alu.ie upon the
enemy to certain death, and, seizing as many pikes as he could grasp, endeavfxsrcd to
force through the ranks, but he was killed in the attempt. His p.triotic valour, how-
ever, was not exerted in vain : it inflamed the Swi.ss witli new courage, and taught the
only method of penetrating into the battalion, which they at length eifected, after the
most desperate eft'orts.
Leopold himself might have escaped, when his troops first began to give way ; but,
with a magnanimity worthy of a better fate, he would not survive so ignominious a day,
and, rushing among the troops of the enemy, was slain. In the arsenal are still preserved
ris armour, together with a large cpiantity of cords, with which, according to tradition,
he intended to bind the citizens of Lucern. The kee|xr of the arsenal displayed them
to us with the sanw kind of friumph, as the man who shews the Tt)wer of London points
out the chains taken on board of the Spanish armada, which Philip II, is said to have
destined for the pr»' • ipal nobility of Mngland.
The govemmen of Lucern is entirely uristocratical, cr rather oligarchical. The
sovereign power resie. 's in the council of om. hundred, comprising the senate, or little
cc-'Mncil. The great council is the nominal so ereign ; but the whole power actually
resides in the s»rnate, ronsistuig * thiity-six numbers, who are formed into two divi-
sions, exercising the office by rotation. The memljers of the senate are neither con-
firmed by the so' reign council, nor by the citizens, but are only dependent upon
diemselves; the division which retires at i c end of six months conlirming that which
comes intoofficc. li< sides the vacant places in the senate being filled by its own body,
the power remains in me poss« ssion of a few patri'-ian families ; aiid as the son generally
succeeds his father, or the broiher his '.brother, the senut<jrial dignity may be considered
as hereditary.
The administration of the current affairs, die care of the police, the management of
the fawi. e:, and the whole executive power, reside in the senate, which sits constantly ;
whereas ti-c sovereign council is assembled only upon important oc asions. The se-
nate b;-' co-jnizance of criminal causes ; but, in case of capital condt nation, the sove-
reign CO Micil is convoked, in order to pronounce the sentence ; a uracil > e worthy of imi-
tation! for the condemnation of a criminal cannot bi; too maturely weighed; and great
solemnity used in pronouncing the sentence, must make a deep impi\ .ion upon tlie
minds of the peoj)le. In civil causes an appeal lies from the scfiate to 'he sovereign
council ; but this must be a mere formality : as, in fact, it is an appeal from tli'- senators in
one court to the s;ime senators in another. Indecfl their influence over the sovereign
council must necessarily be absolute ; for il^y themselves constitute above - diird of
4 3 2
li!
7d4
COXX*> TRAVELS IN 8WITZCRLANB,
tliut body, rhoDso tlicir own members, and confer the nripcipal charges of govfrr»mcni.
They iKMiiinafc tilsn to the rcclcsiastical bciicficos, which arc very cori<tidi ruble ; near
tuothirdn of the revenues of the canton belon(j;ing to the clergy.
The chiefs of the republic are two avoyers, chosen from the senate by the sovereign
council, and confirmed annually. In all elections, the relations of the candidates, to the
third depree, arc excluded from votii^ig; and neither the father and the son, nor two
brothers, can be members of the senate ut the same time. Kxcellent institutions, one
should think, to prevent the too great influence of family connections ! excellent indeed
in theory, but useless in practice : this circumstance proves, that when the spirit of the
ionstitution is oligarchical, all laws enacted for the purpose of counteracting the power
of the nobles, are mere cyphers. In some few instances, however, the authority of the
nobles is conirolK d ; for, in declaring war and jx'ace, forming new alliances, or imposing
taxes, the eitiv:ens must be assembled, and give their consent.*
Lucern being the first in rank and power among the Catholic cantons, is the residence
of the pope's nuiioio, and all affairs relative to religion are treated in the annual diet
which assembles in this town, composed of the deputies of those cantons. The town
contains scarcely three thousand inhabitants, has no nvmufacturcs of any conse-
quence, and little commerce. Learning no where meets with less encouragement, and
consequently is no where less cultivated. VVhat a contrast to Zuric ! Yet, under these
disadvantages, a few persons have made no inconsiderable progress in literature. Among
these the most conspicuous is M. Dalthasar, member of the senate, who possesses a
library rich in books relative to the history of Switzerland, in which he is extremely
<:onversant, and iiis publications already given to the world, and those now preparing
for the press, prove that he knows how to use them. His works arc, for the most
* Luc(;.°-iic, like Suleurc, affords a striking example, thut tlic subjects of an oligarchical state may
be not only tutisticd with the government from which ihcy are excluded, but even averse to ull iimo-
vution. Not nil the cabals of the French agents, not all the clamours of the disafl'ecled, not all the ex-
aggerations of (he grievances under which they were supposed to labour, could induce the people to
think themselves opprcsscfi. They rejected tlic proffered equality, and it was not without great op-
position that the magistrates, rather than the people, on the 31st of January, declared themselves a pro<
visional government, and announced their readiness to accept a deinocraticnl constitution. Yet such
kvas the aversion of the people to the new order of things, that the ancient magistrates were invested
with the provisional government, and the national delegates did nut assemble independently of the pru<
visional government till the 1 4th of March, when Bern had surrendered to the French arms.
During the progress of the French revolution, Lucern acted with great spirit, and wai inclined to
join indef ncc of her own independence, as well us in support of the Helvetic union.
In answer to a summons from Hern, the magistrates, on the 2d of March, replied : " We observe
that the demands of general Drunc, if acceded to, would endanger not only the liberties of Bern, but
the independence of the Helvetic confederacy. We have therefore determined, with the unanimous
approbation of the representatives of the people, that the regiment in the canton of Bern shall march
wherever necessity requires, and that a second regiment shall speedily follow." On the 3d a declara-
tion was sent to Zuric: "We and the people are unanimously resolved to sacrifice our lives and pro-
perty in defence of liberty against foreign invasion. The alarm-bell will be instantly sounded; and
we exhort you to adopt the same resolution : our religion, liberty, property, and every thing that is
dear to us arc in danger. We will shew ourselves worthy of our forefathers; like free people, we
will either conquer or die. These are our resolutions : these arc the resolutions of all our people."
(Meihler, p. ii. p. 8.) But it was now too late ; Bern had already surrendered, and the troops of Lu-
cern, disgusted with the insubordination of the Bernese, retreated to the defence of their own territory.
Notwithstanding the surrender of Bern and the desertion of Zuric, a numerous body of peasants
demanded the re-establishment of the ancient government, and joined the troops of the small cantons,
to resist the entrance of the French ; and the whole canton did not acquiesce without much opposition
and bloodshed. A corps of French, after a short investment, entered Lucern on the 30th of April,
und reduced the people to unconditional submission.
Soon after tliis event, Lucern became the seat of the new Helvetic government.
vfrnmcni.
ibic; near
sovereign
itcs, to the
1, nor two
ttonst, onc
L-nt iiuliod
lirit of the
the power
rity of the
r impo!iii)g
'. residence
ntmal diet
The town
uy conse-
ment, und
nder these
;. Among
lossesscs a
extremely
preparing
' the most
al state may
! to ull iiino-
)t ull the ex-
\e people to
ut great op-
selves a pro-
Yet Buch
ire invested
y of the pro-
is.
I inclined to
Wc observe
if Bern, but
' ununimous
shuU inarch
d a declara-
res and pro-
undcd; and
;hing that is
people, we
ur people."
oops of Lu-
vn territory,
of peasants
mil cantons,
h opposition
th of April,
IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-S)
V
(/ y
%^
^n
/
C/j
#.5
M-
1.0
I.I
1.25
*i^ illllM 125
'■■■ I'M IIIII2 2
...^ lig
1.4
2,0
1.8
1.6
Photographic
Sciences
Corporation
23 WEST MAIN STREET
WEBSTER, NY. 14580
(716) 872-4503
•4'
CIHM/ICMH
Microfiche
Series.
CIHM/ICMH
Collection de
microfiches.
Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut canadien de microreproductions historiques
O'
—-i.^'
1
AUD IN lUE COUMTnv OF THE ORISONS.
i25
part, in the German and Latin tongues; they contain biographical anecdotes of scvcial
illustrious Swiss, elucidate various important parts in the general history of Switzerland,
but more particularly relate to the canton of Lucern. His son, a member of the great
council, deserves to be m<;ntioned for his collection of English books, and the zeal with
which he endeavours to propagate a knowledge of our literature. I have also no less
satisfaction in adding, that, since my first expedition into these parts, science is more
cultivated ; that the principles of toleration are better understood and more widely dif-
fused, and that a literary society is established for the promotion of polite learning.
The population of the canton has considerably increased within this century ; a sure
proof of a mild and equitable government. The inhabitants are principally engaged in
agriculture. The southern parts of the canton are chiefly mountainous, and furnish for
exportation cattle, hides, cheese, and butter. The northern district is fruitful in corn,
which being more than sufficient for the consumption of the canton, there is a constant
exportation from the weekly market held in the town, to which the inhabitants of the
small cantons resort, for the purchase of that and other necessaries. The overplus for
the supply of this market is drawn from Suabia and Alsace. This commerce, which,
together with the passage of the merchandise for Italy, is the chief support of the town,
might be exceedingly improved and augmented, considering its advantageous situation ;
for the Reuss issues from the lake, passes through the town, and, having joined the Aar,
falls into the Rhine.
The cathedral and the Jesuits church are the only public buildings worthy of obser-
vation ; but are overloaded with rich ornaments, and disgraced by bad paintings. In
the cathedral is an organ of a fine tone, and extraordinary size : the centre pipe, as the
priest assured us, is forty feet in length, near three in diameter, and weighs eleven hun-
dred pounds. The bridges which skirt the town round the" edge of the lake are the
fashionable walks of the place, and remarkable for their length ; being covered at top,
and open at the sides, they afford a constant view of this delightful and romantic country ;
they are decorated with coiirse paintings, representing the histories of the Old Testament,
the battles of the Swiss, and the dance of Death.
On our arrival at Lucern we sent a letter of recommendation to general PfifTer, a na-
tive of this town, and an officer in the French service. He received us immediately,
with his usual civility, and shewed us his topographical representation of the most moun-
tainous part of Switzerland, which well deserves the attention of the curious traveller.
It is a model in relief, and what was finished in 1776 comprised about sixty square
leagues, in the cantons of Lucern, Zug, Bern, Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden. The
m(xlel was twelve feet long, and nine and a half broad.
The composition is principally a mastic of charcoal, lime, clay, a little pitch, with a
thin coat of wax ;*and is so hard as to be trod upon without receiving the least damage.
The whole is painted with colours representing the objects as they exist in nature. It
is worthy of particular observation, that not only the woods of oak, beech, pine, and
other trees, are distinguished, but also the strata of the rocks marked ; each being shap-
ed upon the spot, and formed with granite, gravel, calcareous stone, or such other natural
substances as compose the original mountains. The plan is indeed so minutely exact
as to comprise not only all the mountains, lakes, rivers, towns, villages, and forests ; but
every cottage, every torrent, every bridge, every road, and even every path is distinctly
and accurately represented.
General PfifTer has already been employed in this work about ten years, with asto-
nishing patience and assiduity ; he himself took the plans upon the spot, and laid down
the elevations of the mountains in their respective proportions. In the prosecution of
'*.
726
COKE S TRAVELS IN SWITZERLAND,
of this laborious performance, he was twice arrested for a spy, and in the popular can-
tons frequently v/orked by moonlight, in order to avoid the jealousy of the peasants, who
think their liberty would be endangered should an exact plan be taken of their country.
Being obliged to remain some time upon the tops of the Alps, where no provision can
be procured, he generally carries wiih him a few she-goats, whose milk supplies him
witli nourishment. Indeed his perseverance in surmounting the difficulties that have
arisen in the course of this undertaking, is almost inconceivable. When he has finished
any particular part, he sends for the peasants and chasseurs who reside near the spot,
and bids them examine accurately each mountain whether it corresponds, as far as the
smallncss of the scale will admit, with its natural appearance; then, by frequently re-
touching, he corrects the deficiencies. He takes his elevations from the level of the lake
of Lucern, A\hich, according to Saussure, is about fourteen hundred and eight feet above
the Mediterranean.
This model, exhibiting the most mountainous parts of Switzerland, convey., a sublime
picture cf immense Alps piled one u|^on anothir; as if the story of the Titans were
realized, and they had succeeded (at least in one spot of the globe) in heaping Pclion
upon Ossa, and Ossa upon Oh mpus. The gencMl informed me, that the tops of the
Alps which crossed Sw itzerland in the si'.me line are nearly of the s.;me level ; or, in
other words, that there are continued chains of mountains of the same elevation, rising in
progression to the highest range, and from ihencc gradually descending towards Italy.
He is exceedingly polite and afilible to strangers, and ever ready to be of any service to
travellers, in pointing out the best roads, and in acquainting them with the places most
worthy of observation.
Near Lucern is Mount Pilate, formerly called Mons Pileatus, from the Latin word
pilea, because its top is generally covered with a cloud or cap. This word has been cor-
rupt«:d into Pilatus, from w Inch alteration a thousand ridiculous stories have been in-
vented ; among others, that Pontius Pilate, after having condemned our Saviour to
death, was seized v\ iih remorse, made an excursion into Switzerland, and drowned him-
self in a lake at the top ot the mountain. This corruption of a word, and the absurd
legend fabricated from its alteration, will naturally remind you of several fables of simi-
lar absutdity, seriously related by the Greek writers ; a circumstance which my very-
worthy and learned iriend Air. Bryant has so amply and ably discussed in his Analysis
oi ancient Mythology. I am, &c.
Having, in three successive visits to Lucern, observed the gradual progress of gene-
ral PfiflTer's model, and in August 1786 seen it completed, I am enabled to add some
particulars, partly from my own observation, and partly communicated by the ingenious
artist himself.
This model is composed of a hundred and forty two compartments of different sizes
and forms ; they are respectively numbered, and the whole can be taken to pieces and
united with almost as much ease (if we may compare great things with small) as the dis-
sected maps, by which children are instructed in geography.
The lake ol Lucern, nearly the centre of Snvitzerland, forms also the centre of the
plan, which comprehends part of the circumjacent cantons of Zuric, Zug, Schweitz,
Underwalden, Lucern, and Bern, and a smaW portion of the mountains of Glarus. It
comprehends a space of 18^ leagues* in length, and 11 in breadth; and the dimensions
of the model being 20 leetf and a half in length, and 12 in breadth, 203^ square
' A league is equal to 2?88 toises, or 1 3,728 French feet, or 14,643 English feet.
t French feet.
'*.
AND IW THE COUNTRY OF THE ORISONS.
727
lar can-
nts, who
:ountry.
sion can
ies him
lat have
finished
He spot,
r as the
ntly re.
he hike
t above
Hiblinic
lis were
: PcJion
of the
or, in
'sing in
Italy.
leagues arc represented on a parallelogram of 246 feet, or about two English miles and
I by a square English foot. The highest point of the model from the level of the
centre is about ten inches ; and as the most elevated mountain represented therein rises
1475 toises, or 9440 feet, above the lake of Lucern, at a gross calculation, the jieight
of an inch in the model is equivalent to about 900 feet. And it is a matter of astonish-
ment to observe the stupendous works of nature delineated with such perfect resem-
blance in so small a compass.
Though I received considerable satisfaction from tlie first view of this extraordinary
performance ; yet I again contemplated it with much more pleasure, and still greater
astonishment, when I was able to trace many of mj various expeditions, and to recog-
nise its surprising accuracy.
The general began this elaborate work at the age of fifty, and though now in his
seventieth year, continues his annual expeditions into the Alps, with a spirit and ardour
that would fatigue a much younger person. It is likewise no less entertaining than in*
structive,to hear himexpatiate, with an agreeable vivacity, on the most interesting objects,
which are observed on the model. He kindly supplied me with the following remarks,
which I transcribe from my journal. According to a rough calculation, the height on
which snow usually remains during summer, may be estimated at 1360 toises, or 8704
English feet, above the level of the sea ; and on which it never melts, at 1448, or 9264
feet.
Among the phaenomena of nature he mentioned the Rigi, an insulated mountain
near the lake of Lucern, twenty-five miles in circumference, and rising to a perpen-
dicular height of more than four thousand feet above the surface of the lake : it is en-
tirely composed of gravel and pudding-stone, and must have been formed by the wa-
ters. The Rigi joins to a small ridge of sand-stone running towards Schweitz.
Mount Pilate offers a most singular curiosity. At the elevation of five thousand feet,
and in the most perpendicular part, near the pasture of Brunlen, is observed, in the
middle of a cavern hollowed in a black rock, a colossal statue, which appears to be of
white stone. It is the figure of a man in drapery, leaning one elbow on a pedestal, with
one leg crossed over the other, and so regularly formed, that it can scarcely be a lusus
naturs. This statue is called Dominic by the peasants, who frequently accost it from
the only place in which it can be seen, and when their voices are re-echoed from the
cavern, they say, in the simplicity ol" their hearts, *' Dominie has answered us."
It is difficult to imagine by whom, or in what manner this statue could be placed in
a situation, which has hitherto proved inaccessible to all who have endeavoured to ap-
proach it. About the beginning of the present century, one Huoer, a native of Krientz,
a neighbouring village, attempted to descend into the cavern by means of ropes, let
down from the summit of the rock ; he succeeded so far as to gain a near view of this
singular phsenomenon, and was again drawn up in safety. On a second trial, as he was
suspended in the air, and endeavoured to draw himself into the cavern by fixing a
grapple to the statue, the cord broke, and he was dashed to pieces. Since that dread-
ful accident, no one has ventured to repeat the experiment from the same quarter.
Another trial to penetrate to the statue wfls made in 1756, by general Pfiffer and eight
persons, from a small opening on the opposite side of the mountain, in which the na-
tives collect a white substance called mondloch, or cream of the moon. As this open-
ing is supposed to communicate with the cavern, the general and his companions crept
on their hands and knees, one behind the other, and winding in the bed of a smalt
torrent, through several narrow passages, at length discovered the light of the sun
through a remote chasm ; but as the distance seemed very considerable, and as the fall
I'll
M
4
728
coxe's travels in SV/ITZE1LAKS>,
of a single stone might have obstructed their return, they thought it imprudent to ven.
turc any further, and retreated without effecting their purpose.
LETTER XXIV.
Valley ({f Entlibuclu.,.ZoffingeH....LMke qf Sempach..., Anniversary of the Battle.
IN my first expedition to this country, I had no opportunity of visiting the interior
parts of the canton of Luccrn, which I aftenvards traversed in 1785 and in 1786.
On both these occasions I passed from Bern to Lucem, one time along the high road
leading through ZofHngcn, Surzee, and by the lake of Sempach ; at the other tnrough
Langenau, the Emme-thal, and the valley of Entlibuch, a district which though not
usually frequented by travellers, yet highly deserves their attention.
In the 13th century, Entlibuch was subject to the counts of Wolhausen, and came
by purchase, in 1299, to the emperor Albert. In the following century it was held
as a fief from the house of Austria by several successive counts ; till the natives griev-
ously oppressed by Peter of Torrenberg, in 1386, threw themselves under the protec-
tion of Lucem. That republic continued to possess Etlinbuch, as a feudal tenure under
the house of Austria, until 1405 ; when the archduke Frederic renounced all the rights
of sovereignty.
For above u century and a half, the inhabitants, inflamed with a desire of indepen-
dence, and excited by the example of popular cantons, frequently rose in arms, and
attempted to establish a democracy ; but without success. Their last insurrection broke
out iu 1653 ; since which time they have continued in a state of perfect tranquility, un-
der the wise administration of Lucern ; and have enjoyed, with contentment, the con-
siderable privileges with which they are endowed.*
The bailliage of Entlibuch extends from the Emme-thal in the canton of Bern, to
the bridge near Wertenstein, about fifteen miles in length, and nine in its greatest
breadth ; and contains 1 1,000 souls. It is governed by a bailiff*, who is always a senator
of Lucern ; he continues in office two years, and generally resides in that capital. The
bailliage is generally divided into three districts ; the upi)er, or Eschlismat ; the middle,
or Shuepfen ; the lower, or Entlibuch : each of these has its separate courts of justice,
from which an appeal lies to Lucern.
That part of the bailliage which I traversed, is a valley watered by several lively rivu-
lets, winding for some way between two ridges of well- wooded hills, and abounding in
picturesque scenery. Afterwards the country was undulating, and the road which was
narrow and rugged, continually ascended and descended through well-cultivated fieUs
of pasture. I passed through several villages, of which the principal were Eschlismat,
Shuepfen, and Entlibuch, which takes its name from the rivulet Entle, and gives it
to the whole district. These places ane small ; but the whole country is strewed with
cottages, and seems a continued village. The inhabitants chiefly follow agriculture ;
they rear large quantities of horned cattle, sheep, goats, and swine ; make and export
cheese in great abundance. Though usually richer than the inhabitants in the other
parts of the canton ; yet they did not apjiear so well clothed, or to possess such neat
cottages, as their neighbours in the Emme-thal.
The peasants of Entlibuch are much esteemed for their independent spirit, vigour,
and strength ; remarkable for keenness and vivacity, for great quickness in repartee,
• The peasants of Entlibuch were remarkable for their attachment to the government, and for their
tlccided opposition to Frenrli prinriplos, during the late revolution.
WD IN TJIE COUNTUV 01' THT. CniSOVS.
72ri
lor a peculiarity of garb, and for many striking customs which distinguish them from
the natives of the circunijacent districts. Of various usages, which escaped my notice
during my short stay among them, I chanced to gain information of one custom, which
reminds mc of the Fe'^cennina Hcentia mcnt-Mned by Horace, that prevailed t.mong the
Roman Peasants. Two neiglibouring parishes send a challenge to each other, and, at
the conclusion of the carnival each dispatches a man, bedizened with flowers and shells,
called shrove-monday ambassador : he rides to the neighbouring village, and reads or ra-
ther sings, two satirical compositions in verse. The one, a general satire against tlv
parish, usually begins by celebrating a period of Swiss history accommodated to the cir
cumstances of time and place, then draws a comparison between the two parishes,
giving the preference to his own, either for the superior learning and piety of the priest,
the wisdom and impartiality of the president, the industry and spirit of the men, tlu
beauty and chastity of the women, or the education of the children. The second
composition consists of a string of epigrams in ridicule of particular persons ; recording
any scandalous adventures, or ludicrous circumstances, which have happened since the
last year. The poet finishes his harangue with expressing a wish, that on the next
shrove-monday the inhabitants may improve, and not deserve such a severe repri-
mand.
At the conclusion of this lecture, which creates much laughter, the mock ambassador
returns ; and the men of the two parishes repair, with drums beating and colours fly-
ing, to an open place, called the Field of Battle, followed and encouraged by the inha-
bitants of their respective parishes. The two armies being drawn up in order of bat-
tle, the combatants, in imitation of the old Swiss custom, kneel, offer up a short prayer,
and start up at the sound of the trumpet.
Having formed themselves into two columns of several ranks, they march arm in
arm, with uniform step and military attitude ; both the foremost lines meet in front,
and jostle against each other, being supported and pushed forwards by the hinder files,
frequently assisted by the women, until one phalanx is broken. The victorious party is
dignified with the name of the Swiss, and those who gave way arc called Austrians,
in allusion to the ancient animosity between those two powers. The jurymen of
the district are present as umpires, and to prevent any violent disputes and quarrels.
After the rencounter both parties sit down to table, and die day is concluded with
feasting. As these satirical compositions occasionally created much ill will between the
neighbouring parishes, and the rencounters were attended with various accidents,
the government of Lucem abolished the custom ; but has lately permitted it to be re-
vived, with certain restrictions calculated to prevent future mischief.
The valley of Entlibuch may be considered as one of those parts which unite the
mild and cultivated with the wild and rugged scenery of Switzerland ; its acclivities gra-
dually ascend and terminate in Mount Pilate, whose barren top is seen towering above
the fertile and well-wooded hills.
Quitting this valley, we crossed the Emme over a covered bridge, admired the ro-
mantic position of Wertenstein, a convent of Cordeliers, overhanging the perpendicu-
lar banks of the torrent, and passed through a very steep and rocky country to Makers,
a small village within a league of the capital. Here being a considerable fair, I stopped
and dined at the table d'hote, in company with some gentlemen from Lucern, In
walking through the fair, 1 observed several booths for the sale"of artificial flowers,
which were purchased by the country girls. With these flowers, and with four bows
of ribbands, they ornament their hats, which they adjust obliquely, with a degree of
rustic coquetry not unbecoming.
\ I
VOL. V.
5 A
roO
(:0.\£'S 1RAVEI.S IN SWITZERLAND,
Another district of this canton is that part which I visited in 1786, along the hijjh
road leading tVuin Hirn to Luccrn. I passed the night at Zofllingcn, a small town in
the canton of Ikth. The inhabitants enjoy greater immunities than any other place in
that canton ; they have their own magistrates, and, what is peculiar, their own courts
nl' justice, botlj civil and criminal, which ilccidc in the last resort, without an ap^ieal to
Ikrn. A hailifl" resides there ; hiit his whole employment consists in collecting the
tithes. The town contains about two thousand souls.
Near ZofUngcn I entered the canton of Luccrn, and passed through a narrow valley
bounded by a chain of hills remarkable for the richness and variety of the hanging woods.
As I proceeded, the valley expanded ; I traversed a gentle waving country, and de-
hcended to Snrzee, a snuill neat town near the lake of Sempach. From thence I coast-
ed the western side of that lake, a small l)ut beautiful piece of water about three miles
in length and one in breadth ; the grounds on each side slope gently to the edge of the
water, and are prettily chequered with wood. On the opposite hanks of the lake, I ob-
served the tow n (jf Sempach, celebrated for the battle which established the liberty of
the Swiss, and which I have already mentioned in the preceding letter. The anniver-
sary of that battle, which happened on the 9th of July, 1386, is still commemorated
with great solenuiity, both at Sempach and Luccrn, and supplies a copious subject for
many poems and ballads in the numerous collection of national songs.
On the anniversary, a large body of persons of all ranks assemble on the spot where
the battle was fought ; a priest ascends a pulpit erected in the open air, and delivers a
thanksgiving sermon on the successful efforts of their ancestors on that happy day,
which ensured to their country liberty and independence. At the conclusion of this
sermon, another priest reads a description of the battle, and commemorates the names
of those brave Swiss who gloriously sacrificed their lives in defence of their freedom.
Having exhorted those who are present to pray for the souls of their countrymen, and
of the enemies, who fell in that battle, they all repair instantly to a small chapel, where
masses are sung for the souls of the deceased. During this service, the people, falling
on their knees, pray for their glorious ancestors, either in the chapel, on the walls of
which are painted the deeds of the Swiss who immortalized themselves in this conflict,
or near four stone crosses which distinguish the place of combat.
LETTER XXV.
The lake ofLucern...>Gerisau....Schveitz....Origin of the Helvetic confederacy....Wii-
Ham Tell....'Altdorf.
THE Waldstaetter See, or lake of the four cantons, is, from the sublimity as well as
variety of scenery, perhaps the finest body of water in Switzerland. The upper branch,
or the lake of Lucern, is in the form of a cross, the sides of which stretch from Kuss.
nachto Dallenwal, a small village near Stantz. It is bounded towards the town of Lu>
cern by cultivated hills sloping gradually to the water, contrasted on the opposite side
by an enormous mass of barren and craggy rocks. Mount Pilate rises boldly from the
lake, and is perhaps one of the highest mountains in Switzerland, if estimated from
its base, and not from the level of the sea.* According to general Pfiflfer, its elevation
above the lake is more than six thousand feet : nevertheless its heighth above the Medi-
• Soon after the French took possession of Luccrn, general Brune erected, with great solemnity,
the standard of liberty on the top of Mount Pilate ; thus conferring on the Swiss the shadow, while
he deprived them of the substance of freedom.
AND TN HIE COITNTHV Or THE ORISONS.
7.11
the high
|l town in
pr place in
►vn courts
1 apjjeal to
feting the
|o\v valley
ff woods,
and dc-
I coast,
rte miles
ge of the
>ke, I ob-
liberty of
■ unniver-
cmorated
•bject for
ot where
it-livers a
PPy da}-,
n of this
he names
freedom.
lien, and
el, where
le, falling
■ walls of
conflict,
/...,mi
i vvell as
branch,
1 Kuss-
of Lu.
lite side
om the
d from
evation
Medi.
lemnity.
(crrancun is trifling, in comparison with that ofihc Alps we arc going to visit; nor in.
deed dots the snow continue all the year upon its sinnmit.
Towards the end of this branch, the lake contracts into a narrow creek scarcely a mile
in breadth ; soon after again widens, and forms the second branch, or the lake ol
Schweitz ; on the western side is the canton of Underwaldtn, on the eastern thaf of
Schweitz. Here the mountains arc more lofty, and infinitely varied ; som(; covered to
their very summits with the most lively verdure ; others perpendicular and craggy ;
here forming vast amphitheatres of wood, there jutting into the water in bold promon
tories.
On the eastern side of this branch is the village of Gorisau, at the loot of the Rigi ;
it is the smallest republic in Europe. Its territory is al)()ut a leaguu in breadth, and
two in length ; situated partly on a small neck of land at the edge of the lake, and partly
lying upon the rapid declivity of the Rigi. It contains about 1,200 inhabitants : they
have their general assembly of burgesses, their Landamman, their council of regency,
their courts of justice, and their militia. I was informed that there is not a single horse
in the whole territory of the republic, as indeed might well be supposed ; for the only
way of arriving at the town is by water, excepting a narrow path down the sleep sides
of the mountain, which is almost impassable. Cierisau is entirely composed of scattered
houses and cottages of a very neat and picturescpie appearance ; each d\velliiig is provid-
ed with a field or small garden. The inhabitants are much employed in preparing silk
for the manufactures of Basle. This little republic is under the protection of the four
cantons, Lucern, Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden; and in case of war furnishes its quota
of men. To the ambitious politician, who judges of governments by extent of domi-
nion and power, such a diminutive republic thrown into an obscure corner, and scarcely
known outof its own contracted territory mustappear unworthy of notice; but the small-
est spot of earth on which civil freedom flourishes, cannot fail to interest those who know
the true value of liberty and independence, and are convinced that political happiness
does not consist in great opulence and extensive empire.
Towards the end of this branch the lake forms a bay, in the midst of which lies the
village of Brunnen,* celebrated for the treaty concluded in 1315, between Uri, Schweitz,
and Underwalden, which gave birth to the Helvetic confederacy. Here I landed,
*On the 31st of April 1798, Brunnen was aguin distinguished, us the plucc where deputies from
the cuntous of Uri, Scliweitz, Uiiderwulden, und Ulurus, unuiiiiuoiibly deternuned to niuintuin their
independence, und to resist the iiuiovutions of the l-'rench. Even after the subjugation of the other
parts of Switzerland, these intrepid mountaineers defended themselves witii hucii spirit, and made
such havoc among the French forces, that general Scluiwembourg engaged by treaty to respect their
territory, und accc])ted their promise to admit the new Helvetic constitution. The French, however,
not satisfied with this partial submission, yet imwiiling again to encounter the efforts of courage and
despair, contrived todisunite tl)c small cantons, and separately to complete their subjugation. Tliey
obtained from the diet of Aran a decree fur imposing u civic oath of allegiance to the new constitu-
tion; but the cantotis of Uri, Schweitz, Underwalden, und Zug, refused compliance. The Helvetic
Directory having represented to them the danger of resistance, general Schawembourg accompanied
this exhortation with a threat, that unless Uiey complied, "he would instantly march his troops into
the rebellious districts."
Their answer dcsrrvcs to be recorded for its pathetic simplicity: " Receive, citizen general, from
a people ever true to their engagements, wlio among their craggy mountains have no comfort but their
religion and their liberty, whose only riches are their cattle; receive the sincere assurance that they
will ever give the Frencl. republic every proof of their devotion compatible with their liberty and in-
dependence Accept also, citizen general, our solemn promise never to take up arms agahist the
great repui)!ic, and never to join its enemies. Our liberty is our only blessing; nor will we ever
grasp our anns except to defend that liberty." This artless remonstrance had no effect; Uri,
Schweitz, und Glarus, deeming all resistance unavailing, took the civic oath ; and the lower part (.f-
Underwalden, which alone refused, was left to its fate. See the note at the end of tiie next chi.ptc:'
Planla, p. 4o6.
5 A 2
ii
i
r32
COKF.'S TRAVELS IN SWITZERtAND,
and wulkccl throuf^h an ngrccahic and fertile plain, laid out in mcadown, and planted
with fruit trcts, to Schwtitr,, which stands on thu slope of n hill, at the liottom of two
high, sharp, and rnggtd rocks, railed the Schweitzer- Hakcn. Its position is extremely
ngrecahle. The church, which is a large magnificent building, stands in the centre of
the place ; near it the houses are Contiguous ; but in the other part arc prettily dispersed
about the gentle acclivities, in the midst of lawns and meadows, and sheltered by groves
of trees. The nrincipal object of curiosity in Schweitz is a complete collection of the
relebrated IKlhnger's medals, possessed by his nephew. This collection, which he
inherited from his uncle, is very valuable, the medals being all of the finest impres-
sions, and several extremely rare. From these medals M. do Mechel published his
much-esteemed engravings, to which he has prefixed a life of the artist, who was [)om
in the canton of Sohweit*^, on the ^8th of March 1691, and died in 1771, in a very ad-
vanced age.
Having rc-iir.barked at Brunnen, we soon entered the third branch, or the lake of Uri ;
the scenery of which is so grand, that its impression will never be erased from my mind.
Imagine to yourself a deep and narrow lake about nine miles in lengdi, bordered on
both sides with rocks uncommonly wild and romantic, and, for the most part, perpen-
dicular ; with forests of beech and pine growing down their sides to the very edge of the
water. On the right hand upon our first entrance, a detached piece of rock, at a small
distance from the shore, engaged our attention ; it is wholly composed of stones of the
size and shape of bricks, so as to appear quite artificial. The same kind of natural ma^
sonry may be observed in the lofty clifis which impend over this lake not far from Bnm-
ncn. It rises to about sixty feet in height ; is covered with underwood and shrubs, and
reminded me of those c ags that shoot up in the fall of the Rhine near SchafFhausen :
but here the lake was as smooth as crystal, and the silent solemn gloom which reigned
in this place was not less awful and affecting than the tremendous roaring of the cataract.
.Somewhat further, upon the highest point of the Seclisberg, we observed a small cha-
pel that seemed inaccessible ; and below it, the little village of Gruti, near which the
three heroes of Switzerland arc said to have taken reciprocal oaths of fidelity, when they
planned the famous revolution.
On the opposite side appears the chapel of William Tell, erected in honour of that
hero, upon the very spot where he leaped from the boat in which he was conveying as
a prisoner to Kussnach. It is built upon a rock projecting into the lake I'nder a hang-
ing wood : a situation amid scenes so strikingly awfid, as must strongly affect even the
most dull and torpid imagination ! On the inside of this chapel, the several actions of
William Tell are coarsely painted. While we were viewing them, we observed the
countenances of our watermen glistening with exultation, as they related, with much
spirit and sensibility, the cruelties of Gesner governor of Uri, and the intrepid behaviour
of their glorious deliverer. Indeed I have frequently remarked with pleasure the na-
tional enthusiasm which generally prevails in this country, and greatly admired the fire
and animation with which the |)eople discourse of those famous men among their ances-
tors ; to whom they are indebted for that happy state of independence they now enjoy.
This laudable spirit is continually supported and encouraged by the numerous statues,
and other memorials, of the ancient Swiss heroes, common in every town and village.
Among these, Tell is the most distinguished, and seems to be the peculiar favourite of
the common people ; the reason is obvious ; for his story partakes greatly of the mar-
vellous.
A few years ago a treatise, entitled Fable Danoise, was published at Bern ; in which
the author calls in question the history of Willbm Tell. Though his arguments in ge-
ANIi IN TIIK COUNTHV Ot THfi CHISON'J,
m
fid planted
|om of two
J extremely
(c centre of
tlispcrscd
J ')> groves
ftion of the
which he
ht impres.
piibhcd his
was l)om
la very ad-
|kcofUri;
tny mind,
rdercd on
t. perpen-
:<lgeofthe
at a small
nes of the
atural ma>
om Bmn-
irubs, and
ffhausen :
ih reigned
e cataract,
ninll cha-
which the
^vhen they
»r of that
yeyin^ as
r a hang-
even the
ctions of
rvcd the
th much
L'haviour
the na-
the fire
r ances-
V enjoy,
statues,
village,
urite of
te mar-
i which
iingc.
ncral arc by no moans conclusive, yet he mentions two circumstanccM which, if true, arc
convincing proofs, that much fiction is interwoven with the whole uccotnit. He asserts
that the incident of Tvll's shnoting the apple from the head of ins son is not recorded in
r, J of the contempor.iry hihtorians, nltl.ougU ihey give the minutest accounts of the go.
vernor's tyranny ; and ili.it the first writer who takes notice of it is Ktterlin of Lueern,
who lived in the latter end of the fifteenth century, mar two hundred years after the fact is
supposed to have happened. Resides, a stury of the siimc kind is related in thi Danish
annals by Saxo Grammaticus, with scarcely any difference but that of names: Harold
king of Denmark supplies the place of the governor of Uri, Tocco that of William Tell ;
and this event which is said to have happened in 9C5, is attended ;)lso with nearly the
same incidents, as diose recorded in the Swiss accounts. *'' It is Sar from being a ncccs<
sary conse(|uence, that because the authenticity of the story concerning the apple is liable
to some doubts, therefore the whole tradition relating to Tell is fabulous. Neither is it
a proof against the reality of a fact, that it is not mentioned by contemporary historians.
The general history of William Tell is repeatedly celebrated in old German songs, so
remarkable for their ancient dialect and simplicity, as almost to raise the deeds tiiey
celebrate above all reasonable suspicion : to this may be added, the constant tradition
of the country, together with two chapels erected some centuries ago, in memory of his
exploits.
The three cantons were so much oftended with the author for doubting the exploits
of their ancient hero, that they presented a remonstrance to the sovereign council of Bern,
and the pamphlet was publicly burnt at Uri. In this instance their national prejudices
(if they really deserve that name) become, in some measure, meritorious and res.
pectable.
Landing at Fluellen, I had an opportunity of observing that the cross-bow is still
much used, as I saw several very young boys, each with that instrument in his hand.
Observing a butt at a small distance from the place, I told them, that those who hit the
mark should receive a penny for their dexterity. Upon this intimation, three boys took
aim successively, two of whom touched the very centre of the butt, and obtained the
prize : but the third missing, I made him shoot till he hit the mark ; which after two or
three trials, he performed.
From Fluellen we walked to Altdorf, the capital burgh of the canton of Uri, situated
in a narrow vale almost entirely surrounded by stupendous mountains. It contains se-
veral neat houses ; the tops whereof are covered with large stones, in order to pre-
vent the roofs being carried away by the hurricanes frequent in these mountainous
countries.
When the greater part of Helvetia was subject to the empire, the inhabitants of Uri,
Schweitz, and Underwalden, had long enjoyed the most considerable privileges, parti-
cularly the right of being governed by their own magistrates : the clergy and many oi
the nobles, indeed, had fiefs and subjects in those respective territories ; but the bulk
of the people formed several communities almost independent. During the twelfth
century, various disputes between the three cantons and the emperors united them more
firmly, and they were accustomed, every ten years, to renew formally their alliance.
Such was their situation at the death of Frcdferic II, in 1250. From this period, or
soon afterwards, commenced the interregnum in the empire : during tliat time of
* As Saxo Grammuticus is an author but little known, and the passage in question is exceedingly-
curious, the reader will find it inserted at the end of this volume It is but justice to add, that some
persons question the authenticity of this passage, and suppose it to be spurious.
1,
i
734
COXE't TMAVEM IN SWlTZCnLANO,
anarchy and conftision, ilK'nohKn and bishops tiuliavotirinpf to extend their power, and
to tn(n»:uli ii|)nn (he priviUgtsof thr pcopli*, Uri, Schwcitz, and Undcrwaldcn, threw
thinistlviH iiikUt the protection of Hodolph of Il.ipshurp, who, in 1273, htinn choncn
emperor, terminated tl'.o interrepuim. Hodolph received a small revenue from these
cantons, and appointed a ^overnor, who had co(;nizancc in all criminal causes, but ex-
pressly eonfiruted the riphlH and privileges of the people.
Hodolph, sonu'tin\e alter his accession to the imperial throne, listened to the ambi-
tious selu'nies of his son Albert, who was debirous to form Helvetia into n dutchy. For
this purpose the emperor punlnvd the dom;iiiis of several abbeys, and other consider-
able ruisin Switzeiiund, as well in the canton of Schiveitz as in the neighbouring terri-
tories.
'1'hethri.e cantons alarnud at this ^Tcat increase of power, obtained a confirmation of
their privikges, which, upon the death ol Hodolph, was renewed by his successor Adol.
phus of Nasoau. But when iVlbert was elected emjteror, he refused to ratify their
right"., and, in order totally to subdue the people, placed over them two governors, who
committid niany flagitious acts of tyranny and oppression.
Under these circumstances Werner de Staffach of Schweitz, Walthcr Furst of Uri,
and Arnold de Melchthal of Underwaldcn, planned the famous revolution which took
place January 13, 1308, and restored liberty to the three cantons ; and Albert, as he was
preparing to attack them, was assassinated by his nephew John of Hapsburgh.* In
1315, Leopold duke of Austria marched against the crnfcderate cantons, at the head of
twenty thousand troops, and, endeavouring to force his way into Schwcitz at the pass of
Morgurten, received u total defeat from thirteen hundred Swiss posted upon the moun<
tains. If wc may believe contemporary historians, the Swiss lost but fourteen men in
this memorable engagement, which insured their independence. In the same year, the
three cantons contracted a perpeaial alliance, which was ratified at Brunnen, and is the
grand foimdation of the Helvetic confederacy. Such were the feeble beginnings of a
league, since become so formidable by the accession often cantons, and by the additional
strength of its numerous allies ; and it is remurkabi ', that Switzerland is the only country
which, on the one side, has confined the limits of ihc German empire, and, on the other,
has set bounds to the French monarchy. t
The name of Schweitzerland, or Switzerland, which originally comprehended only the
three cantons ol Uri, Schweitz, lind Underwaldcn, was afterwards extended to all Hel-
vetia. It derived that appellation either from the canton of Schweitz, as having parti-
cularly distinguished itself in the revolution of 1308, and also at the battle of Morgarten ;
or because the Austrians called all the inhabitants of these mountainous parts by the ge-
neral denomination of Schweitzers.
Switzerland was the rock on which the house of Austria split, during more than a
century. Blinded with resentment against their former subjects, and anxious to recover
their lost domains, the several dukes led in person considerable armies to subdue a na-
tion, whose spirit was unconquerable, and to obtain possession of a country, which was
easily defended iig;;inst the most numerous troops. They neglected several opportunities
of aggrandizing themselves in other parts, and, slighting what was more feasible, bent their
whole eflorts to acquire what in its very nature was unattainable. The consequence of this
mistaken policy was, a succession of defeats, attended with a prodigious expence, and
• See Leucr 14.
t The reader will please to recollect that this letter was written before the fatal progress of the
French revolution.
AND IN TIIK COUMinV Ot THE URIIONS.
•33
poM'fr, nnd
<lcn, tl»rc\v
inK cho«cn
Trom tluijc
t'M, but ex.
the ambi.
Itchy. For
r consider,
iriiig tcrri.
rmation of
JiHor Adol.
ratiiy thtir
"ors, who
•St of Uri,
^'hich took
as he was
rgh.* In
If head of
he pass of
he nioun-
" men in
ytur, the
;md is the
inj^s of a
additional
y country
the other,
1 only the
3 all Hcl-
ing parti,
argtirten ;
'ythcge.
e than a
^ recover
lue a na-
hich was
rtunitics
cm their
-c of this
>ce, and
ss of the
the loss of their bravest troops, until nt length, ronvincid of tluir rrrnr, tluy totally
rclin(iuiitlicd an attempt, in witiili tluy had cx|)(.ii(lid %o much fruitlcNs blood .ind trru<
sure. Dut although several emperorn of that li()ii!ic- occasionally m-idi- atliancis with
the Swiss cantons, yei it was not till the treaty of W estnhalia that their independence
was fully and fnially acknowledged by Ferdinand III, and the v.holc empire.
The government of Uri and Sehweitz is ititirely demoeratieal, and pearly the same.
The supreme power resides in the people at large, who are divided into several com-
munities, from w'jich are chosen the counc ils of regency. In tin Lands-gemeind, or
general assi mbly, the Landamman, and the principal magistrates, are elected ; and
every burgher, at the age of fourteen, in the cantons of Uri and Underwaldcji, and
of fifteen in Sehweitz, consist each of sixty members, and re^i/ie at the capital burghs;
in these councils the executive powei is vested, and from their bodies the principal
magistrates are chosen.
These two cantons contain, including their subjects, nl)out fifty thousand souls, and
in case of necessity could furnish above t^v.lvc thousatid militia. All the Catholic can-
tons enjoy considerable subsidies from Frari'.e. Every burgher, at the age of fourteen,
in Uri, receives annually about six livn s, or five shillings : the Landamman and thc
magistrates more in proportion. The canton of Sehweitz being for some time discon-
tented with France, withdrew iis troops from that service: but this year (1776) the
matter has been accommodated; and the king pays annually to every male child of a
burgher four livres, commencing from die time of his birUi.
1 he same kind of soil, and the same productions, arc common to the two cantons :
the whole country being rugged and mountainous, consists chiefly of pasture, produces
little corn, and has no vmes. We cannot but observe with astonishment, to what a de-
gree of fertility the natives have improved a land, naturally barren, and for which
tney fought with as much zeal and intrepidity, as if they contended for the richest plains
of Sicily or Asia Minor. In these little demoeratieal states, sumptuary laws are not
necessary ; for they scarcely know what luxury is. The purity, or (as some perhaps
would call it) the austerity of morals, which still prevails among theae people, cannot
easily be imagined by the inhabitants of opulent cities ; and I cannot reflect on that
affectionate patriotism which so strongly attaches them to their country, without calling
to mind that beautiful description of the Swiss peasant, in Goldsmith's Traveller.
^ Dear is that shed to which his soul conforms,
And dear thut hill which lifts him to the stornn:
And as u child, when scaring sounds molest.
Clings close and closer to the mother's breast ;
So the loud torrent, and the whirlwind's rour,
Out bind him to his native mountuins more."
Every step we now advance, we tread, as it were, upon sacred ground ; monuments
continually occur of those memorable battles, by which the Swiss rescued themselves
from oppression, and secured the enjoyment of their invaluable freedom. I am now
indeed in the very centre of civil liberty ; would I could add of religious too ! but the
church of Rome is here exclusively established. It must be acknowledged, however,
that this intolerant spirit is not wholly confined to the Catholic cantons ; for, in die Pro-
testant districts, Calvinism is alone admitted : thus a nation, who prides herself upon
her. freedom, denies the free exercise of religion to every other sect except that which pre-
dominates. Is not this striking at the first principle, and most valuable privilege, of
genuine liberty ?
;5(s
coxe's travel:, in switzerla.vh,
Long as my letter already is, I c>.:inot forbear mentioning a peculiar custom observed
in some of these democrati'cal states: every person who is chosen for a bailliagc, orlu-
crative oflice, is obliged to pay a certain stipulated sum into the public fund. This
practice is attended with one ill consequence at least ; as the successful candidate is in
some measure authorised to stretch his prerogatives, in order to swell the profits of his
charge. Accordingly, it is a general remark, that in the common bailliages, thebailiffs
appointed by the popular cantons are more apt to be guilty of exactions than those of
the aristocratical republics. I am, &c.
LETTER XXVL
Canton nfUndcnvalik'n.... Same.... Snxelen.... Torn!) and character ofXicholas de Flue.*..
Stantz....Engelhcrg.... Passage over the Siiren Alps to Altdorf.
INSTEAD of proceeding, asin my former tour, from Lucernto Altdorf by water,
1 made an agreeable excursion to Same, Saxelen, and Stantz, in the canton of Under-
walden, \ isited the abl)cy of Engelberg, and traversed the Suren Alps to Altdorf.
Having dispatched my baggage by water to Altdorf, I walked, in company with
M. Meyer, member of the great council of Lucern, through a pleasant plain, lying
between Mount Pilate and an opposite ridge of hills, to Winkle, a village situated on an
inlet of the lake of Lucern. There I took boat, and rowing across the inlet, disem-
barked near Alpnaeh, in the canton of Underwalden, and continued along a foot way,
which winds through enclosures of rich pasture land, browsed by numerous herds of
fine cattle, and prettily chetiuered with scattered cottages. Hav ing crossed a small river,
I arrived at Same, the capital burgh of that division of the canton called Oberwalden,
wherein the Land-rath, or supreme court of judicature, asF:embles for the puiposc of
deciding civil and criminal processes. This tribunal is composed of fifty-eight judges,
who are chosen by the people, and continue in office for life. In criminal affairs of any
notoriety, each of these is empowered to bring into court two individuals ; and this
tribunal, thus consisting of a hundred and seventy-four members, assembles in a large
open hall in the town-house, and passes final sentence.
At Same I embarked upon the Aa, and ascending its stream entered the lake of Same,
a piece of water about three miles long, and one and a half broad, pleasantly enclosed
between the mountains, and its rising borders richly variegated with pastures and trees.
I landed at Saxelen, which stands on its western shore ; a neat village much frequented,
as the nativ place of the celebrated saint and patriot Nicholas de Flue, to whose honour
a church has been lately erected. The interior is ornamented in a pleasing style of
architecture. Ten elegant columns of black marble support the roof; they are about
twenty.four feet in height, and many of them of a single piece. They were hewn out
of a quarry in tlie Melchthal, about nine miles from Saxelen, and dragged from thence
by the peasants, who voluntarily performed this task, which they considered as an act
of religious duty : a laborious enterprise, to convey ^uch heavy burdens down steep
precipices and over pathless rocks, where they could neither be assisted by horses nor
oxen
•
Under a glass case in the midst of the church are deposited the bones of this favour-
ite object of national worship, fantastically ornamented, according to the Roman Ca-
tholic custom, with gdd and precious stones. His real burial place is still to be seen in
a small adjoining chapel ; it is a simple grave stone, on which his figure is coarsely carved
in stone, the work of the age in which he lived. A little above this ancient monument
}s placed another grave stone, bearing also his figure, executed in later times, less rude.
AND IS THB COUNTRV OF THE CniSOVS.
rsT
served
or 111-
This
is in
of his
bailiffs
ose of
^luc...
but still of coarse workmanship. On entering this chapel I observed numerous pilgrims
of both sexes, who were kneeling before his tomb, and praying with the greatest fcr-
vency ; many, in the ardour of devotion, threw themselves between the two grave stones,
and stretching themselves upon the most ancient figure, repeatedly kissed and embraced
it.
Nicholas de Flue, this object of national enthusiasm, was born at SaxcUn in 1417.
\ Descended from an ancient family, he signalized himself in defence of his countrj', and
^particularly during the war which the Swiss supported against Sigismond archduke of
Austria. He was no less remarkable for humanity than valour. To his countrymen
preparing to pillage and burn the convent of St. Margaret near Diessenhoscn, he ex-
claimed, " if God grants you the victory over your enemies, use it with moderation,
and spare those edifices which are consecrated to him." This remonstrance was at-
tended with effect, and the convent was saved from destruction. To the most excellent
qualities of the heart and understanding, to great political sagacity, he added the exte-
rior graces of figure, dignity of character, and the most winning affability. Raised by
his countrymen to high employments in the state, he repeatedly declined the office of
landamman from motives of delicacy, because he disapproved the principles of the go-
verning party. At length, hurried away by his detestation of evil, and a zeal for
monkish devotion, he quitted his family in the fiftieth year of his age, and, retiring from
the world in a fit of gloomy superstition, turned hermit. The place of his retreat was
at Ranft, a few miles from Saxelen, where he built an hermitage and a small chapel, and
practised all the severities required by that austere mode of life with the strictest ob-
servance.
But the flame of patriotism, although smothered in his breast by an ill-directed zeal
for mistaken duties, was not extingubhed ; and he was the happy instrument in rescuing
Switzerland from the impending horrors of civil discord. At the conclusion of the war
with Charles the bold, Friburgh and Soleure having contracted an alliance with Zuric,
Bern, and Luoem, the treaty was conudered by Uri, Schweitz, Underwalden, Zug, and
Glanis, as a breach of the former union. After various disputes and fruitless confe-
rences» the deputies of the eight confederate cantons assembled in 1481 at Stantz, in
order to compromise the differences.
Both sides were so heated with mutual animosities, that the deputies were on the point
of separating without effecting a reconciliation, and a civil war appeared inevitable. In
this crisis of affairs, de Flue no sooner hevd of the public dissentions, than his patriotism
prevailed over his superstition ; and he quitted his unprofitable hermitage to exert those
active and public virtues, the lowest of which singly outweighs whole years of useless
m<.)rtification. Accordingly this extraordinary man, though in the 64th year of his age,
travelled during the night, and arrived at Stantz on the very morning in which the
deputies were preparing for their departure. He earnestly conjured them to remain ;
and having prevailed upon them once more to assemble, he so forcibly represented the
destructive consequences of disunion, that they chose him arbiter of the dispute. By
his sole mediation all differences were amicably adjusted, and by his advice Friburgh and
Soleure were instantly received into the Helvetic confederacy : such was the effect of
Ym persuasive and conciliatory eloquence 1 Having thus happily composed the public
dissentions, he returned to his hermitage, where he died, in 1487, in the 70th year of
his age, regretted and esteemed by all Switzerland. Such a general opinion of his ex-
treme piety prevailed among his contemporaries, that the bigotry of those times ascrib-
ed to him an exemption, from the common wants of human nature. ^/
VOL. V. , 5 B
I
738
In the
the year ante
COXE's travels in SWITZERLAND,
register of the church of Saxelen, the following notice is inscribed for 1485,
intcccdent to his death : " in 1417, Nicholas de Flue, a saint, was bom in the
parish of Saxelen ; who afterwards retired into a desart called Ranft, where God sus-
tained him during eighteen years, without eating or drinking for a long time, namely,
when this was written ; and he is now in good estate, and of holy life."
On his tomb is inscribed : " Nicholas dc Flue quitted his wife and children to go
into the desart : he served God nineteen years and a half without taking any sustenance.
He died in 1487."
This frivolous epitaph strongly marks the bigotted spirit of that dark age in which it
was composed : the narrow-minded author, totally overlooking the patriot in the her-
mit, saw nothing so truly meritorious in the life of the deceased, as the suppression of
those social energies which dignify human nature, in order to practise the debasing aus-
terities of a superstitious religionist. He ought to have inscribed, " to the memory of
Nicholas de Flue, who quitted this hermitage to appear in the world ; who restored
peace and harmony to the republics of Switzerland, and who served God by serving his
country."
From Saxelen we intended to visit Ranft, de Flue's hermitage, and from thence to
proceed down the Melchtai and over the mountains to Engelberg ; but as the evening
was already beginning to close, we durst not venture along so difficult a passage, which
would have employed us at least five hours ; we thought it therefore mo3t prudent to
continue our route towards Stantz. We followed the footpaths, which wind agreeably,
sometimes through forests, sometimes over the fields and meadows ; and passed through
a fertile but wilder and more romantic part of the canton, than that which we traversed
in the morning. We continued for some way at the foot of the Stantzberg, crossed a
small plain formerly a lake, in which staples for mooring vessels are occasionally disco-
vered ; and in about three hours after our departure from Saxelen arrived at Stantz,
in the dusk of the evening.
About three miles from Stantz is a small wood called the Kern-wald, which we tra-
versed in our route from Saxelen ; it would not be worthy of mention, did it not sepa-
rate the canton into two divisions, called Oberwald and Underwald.^ Formerly tbe
whole canton was under the same general administration ; but disagreements arising
between the Inhabitants of the two districts, they have since formed two republics, and
have each their lands-gemeind, or general assembly, their landamman, and council of
regency : for the management of external affairs there is a joint council, chosen equally
by the two divisions ; at the Helvetic diet they send but one deputy, and regulate
their vote by mutual consent. Stantz is the seat of civil and criminal judicature, and it
is worthy of remark, that every male of the age of thirty is permitted to give hb vote
for the acquittance or condemnation of a criminal.
Stantz the capital of Underwalden, is situated in a beautiful plain of pasture, about
two or tliree miles in breadth, at the foot of the Stantzberg, and at a little distance
from the lake of Lucem. The town and environs, delightfully sprinkled with nume-
rous cottages, are extremely populous, containing, perhaps, not less than five thousand
souls. The church is a tolerably handsome building, and is decorated in the inside
with ten black marble pillars of large dimensions, but not so beautiful as those at Sax-
den. The women in these parts dress their heads in a singular manner, and extremely
* Above the wood, and below the wood : wald in German signifying a wood. . »;
*~* — ~^- ■^-. — '^
r 1485,
) in the
3d sus-
lamely,
and
AND IN THE COUNTRV OF THE CRISONS.
73!»
unbecoming: they wear black-beaver cocked hats, similar to those of the men, witli
black ears to their caps, which almost conceal their hair.^
The next morning the abbot of Engelberg, previously informed of our intended visit,
politely sent horses to Stantz ; and we rode through a fertile valley, enclosed between
the Stantzberg and a chain of hills, until we arrived at Graffen-ort, a small villa belong,
ing to the abbot, about two leagues from Stantz. Here we began to ascend along ii
road winding by the side of a steep precipice, and through " unsunned forests" of beech
intermingled with poplar, mountain ash, Spanish chesnuts, and pines, the torrent Aa
impetuously foaming in a stony channel, and forming a succession of cataracts. The
wild horrors of the circumjacent rocks, the incessant roaring of the waters, and the so
litary gloom of the forest, reminded me of Gray's beautiful Ode on the Grande Char-
treuse, in which he describes similar scenes with a sublimity and truth which every per
son of taste, who travels through these magnificent regions, must feel and admire :
* This tranquil and happy district became the scene of unexampled carnage, and the handful of na-
tives who ventured alone to resist the aggression of the French were almost wholly exterminated. The
inhabitants of Schweitz and Undcrwaldcn, being required to take the civic oath, sent deputies to Lu-
cem, and afterwards to Arau, who appealed to the stipulations of the treaty granted by general Schaw-
embourg. They were received with insult and indignity, and returned with the following answer :
«*You, as well as the other cantons, must take the oath; and you must further give up to us, alive or
dead, nine of your principal leaders, and among them three of your clergy. Many hundreds more shall
share the same fate. The consequences of your obstinacy shall be held out as an example to the
whole world,"
Intimidated by this threat, Schweitz and the upper district of Underwalden complied with the in-
junction; but the message of the Swiss Directory having been read to a general assembly of the lower
district, excited indignation and horror ; and they unanimously resolved to be buried in the ruins of
their country rather than surrender their fellow-citizens in so dishonourable a manner. About ISO&
took up arms, and, without the smallest hope of foreign assistance, prepared to resist the whole force
of the French, and to die rather than survive their expiring liberty. Having entrenched themselves
on the borders of the lake, and at the entrance of the valley of Stantz, with their women and children,
they firmly waited the attack. The French advanced to the assault in separate columns, some crossing
the lake in armed vessels, and others marching over the mountains.
On the 3d of September hostilities commenced; the French were repulsed in different onsets; on
the 9th two vessels being sunk with 500 men, the French were intimidated, and refused to proceed,
until a party, encouraged by the promises, and urged by the threats of Schuwembourg, disembarked
and forced the entrenchments. At the same time two other columns landed at difl'ercnt points, and
the corps rushing from the mountains, fell upon their rear. The small but heroic bund, shut up in a
narrow defile, and surrounded by a force ten times their number, susUiincd the assault with unparalleled
courage.
"Then began," says an eye-witness of this desperate conflict, "the battle and the carnage. Our
rustic heroes fire on every side, fight foot to foot, rush among the enemies' ranks, slay and are slain.
These mountaineers were seen pressing French officers to death in their nervous arms; old men, wo-
men and children, roused by the noble example, and catching the enthusiasm of their sons, husbands,
and fathers, appeared throwing themselves into the midst of the French battalions, arming themselves
with clubs, pikes, pieces of muskets, nay the very limbs of the human body, strewing the ground with
carcasses, and falling with the satisfaction of having fought to maintain their native land free from a
foreign yoke."
The French, exasperated at this incredible resistance, put to the sword not only their opponents on
the field of battle, bat involved all whom they met in indiscriminate slaughter, and the valley from
one end to the other became a prey to pillage, flames, and carnage.
Two hundred natives of Schweitz, hearing the cannonade, were ashamed of having deserted their
brethren, and hastily arming themselves, forced the post which the French had established at Brunnen^
and towards the end of the day approaching Stantz, saw the conflagration, which showed the fatal
event of the action. They devoted themselves to revenge the fate of their couiitrymen, and after ex-
terminating above 600 of their enemies, fell on the field of battle.
This was the last conflict of expiring liberty in Switzerland ; had the united Swiss acted with equal
spirit, the country would yet have been free.
The fall of Underwald, by an eye-witness, Mallet, vol. ii. p. 40.
5 B 2
740.'
COXE's travels in SWITZERLAND,
Per inviaa rupes, fera per juga,
Clivosquc prxruptoB, sonanteit
Inter aquus, ncmurumquc noctom.
Issuing from the dark forest, we descended for a little way, and unanimously broke
into an exclamation of surprise and delight, as we suddenly looked down upon a pic>
turesque plain of an oval shape beautifully wooded, watered by several lively streams, en-
closed within a circle of gentle hills, and terminated by a majestic amphitheatre of
*' cloud-capt Alps ;*' toward the extremity of this plain the abbey, a large quadrangular
building of stone, is situated at the foot of the Euffelberg, or Mountain of Angels, from
which tne whole district takes its name. On alighting from our horses, the abbot po-
litely received and conducted us into a large saloon, where soon afterwards dinner was
served with all the plenty of feudal times, and all the comforts of the present age. Th^
company at table consisted of the abbot, five or six benedictines, ourselves, and our
servants, who, according to the custom of the place, sat down to the same hospitable
board with their masters. This intermixture of society, the politeness of the worthy
abbot, and the facetious cheerfulness of one among the fathers, rendered the repast as
agreeable as it was uncommon. After dinner we visited the librar)', which contains
about ten thousand volumes ; and, among many rare editions, above two hundred
printed in the fifteenth century. I noticed a much larger collection of modern historical
and miscellaneous works than are usually found within the walls of a monastery, which
does honour to the taste of the abbot, and proves him a warm friend to politq literature.
The weather being fine and clear I strayed about the environs, admiring the scattered
hamlets, the beautiful tufts of wood, and the lively streams which murmur through the
plain: of these, one called the Melt-bach, which I observed issuing copiously from the
ground, begins to flow on the first melting of the snow in the month of May, and ceases
towards the end of September, and the Griesen-bach, that rises at the foot of Mount
Blake, runs only fi'om mid-day to the setting sun. Several other torrents, that pour
down from the neighbouring glaciers, and numerous springs that burst from the ground
near the abbey, help to supply the Aa, which rushes from the Suren Alps, and, swelled
with these tributary waters, hastens to throw itself into the lake of Lucem. The am-
phitheatre of cloud-capt mountains is formed by the Melkleberg, the Arniberg, the
Blakebcrg, the Spitze-stock, the Suren Alps with their brown peaks boldly rising from
the bosom of the snow, the Engelberg towering in naked majesty, and, the most elevated
and most beautiful in the whole chain, Mount Titlis, supporting on its top an immense
glacier.
About seven in the afternoon we sat down to supper ; in the midst of the repast we
were suddenly struck with an awful thunder-storm, which, though it could not be called
the music of the spheres, or such as, according to the legends of the abbey, was per-
formed on the top of the Engelberg, by a choir of angels, at the consecration of the con-
vent ; yet produced a most sublime effect, when re-echoed by the surrounding mounUuns.
The abbot, chosen by a majority of sixteen benedictines, who compose the chapter,
is sovereign lord over the land of £ngelberg, a tract of country about sixty miles in
circumference, and under the protection of Lucem, Uri, Schweitz, and Underwalden.
The small plain in which the abbey is situated is the only habitable part of this district,
and contains fifteen hundred souls ; the remaining portion, being entirely mountainous,
affords in summer a retreat to numerous herds of cattle. The abbot, to whom we were
indebted for so polite a reception, is Leodigar Saltzman, a native of Lucem, who, since
his elevation to his present dignity, has been a kind and indulgent master : finding many
of his subjects extremely poor and indolent, he has excited them to industry ; and in
order to assist them during the winter months, when agriculture is suspended, employs
them in winding silk, which he imports from Italy. He possesses very considerable
-■•- •— ■ ■**-
AND IN THE COUNTUY OF THE CRISONS.
741
power, which renders him nearly absolute : in all criminal cases he arrests and impri.
sons ; appoints the person who examines ; can order, if he thinks it necessary, the in-
fliction of torture, and can pardon or mitigate the sentence given by the tribunal of the
country, called landsgeric ht. In civil causes his influence is very considerable ; he ap*
points, from twelve candidates selected by the |)eople, the seven judges, who, in con-
junction with the thalamman and stathalter, form the landsgericht, which decides in the
first resort : he can also displace them if he pleases, and absolutely nominates all the
judges of the geistiichen-gt richt, or ecclesiastical court, which receives appeals from the
decisions of the former tribunal. His power is restricted in the following instances. If
he is engaged in a law-suit with an individual, the award of the country tribunal is final,
and if with the whole community, the question is decided by the four cantons of Lucern,
Uri, Schweitz, and Undcrwaldcn.
His revenues amount to about 50001. and are derived partly from tithes of certain
estates in the free bailliages of Switzerland, and from a few feudal rights, but princi-
pally from the exportation of cheese. Beside those which are made on the pastures
belonging to the abbey, he purchases others from the peasants of his little territory, and
disposes of the whole on his own account. About eighteen hundred cows, including
the cattle of the convent, arc possessed by the natives of Engclberg, and annually sup-
ply milk for about 10,000 cheeses, each weighing from 25 to 50 pounds, and selling,
on an average, for 15 florins, or II. 5s. per hundred weight : and it may be calculated
that the abbot circulates annually to the value of 40001. This revenue, however, can-
not be considered as his own private property ; for he pays the current expences of the
abbey.*
* On the I St of April 1798 the respectable abbot resigned his sovereignty, in a letter to Mengaud,
the French resident in Switzerland.
" Citizen Minister We fulfil a duty highly agreeable to us, in forwurding to you the enclosed act,
in which we voluntarily re-establish the people of the valley of Engelberg in their sovereign rites.
We flatter ourselves that you will acknowledge ^r. this conduct the purity of our intentions, and our
extreme eagerness to render ourselves worthy of the French republic. We hope, Citizen Minister,
that you will make our sentiments known to the Directory of the Great Nation, and recommend us to
the continuance of its esteem and kindness. Health and respect !
(Signed) Leodboarius Abbot, and
Maurice Mulleu Prior." .
Mengaud returned this insulting answer, which announced the dissolution of their community :
*^ I have reud with pleasure your letter of the 1st of April, in which you announce the re-establish-
ment of the people of the valley of Engclberg in their sovereign rights. I commend this natural res-
titution of untit^uated usurpations, eternally contrary to those imprescriptible rights of nature, to the
enjoyment of which men are indiscriminately culled. This acknowledgment on your part of a sacred
and unalienable principle, is witliout doubt of great value ; and under this point of view, citizen monks,
you are commendable ; but be still more so. Do not wait till philosophy expels you from the asylum
of indolence and inutility. Quit the livery of superstition, return to society, nnd display virtues suffi-
cient to bury in oblivion those years which have been consecrated to monasMc nullity." Moniteur,
Sth Floreal.
The respectable abbot of Engclberg died of chagrin, soon after he received the insulting letter of
Meng|aud. The unfeeling conduct of the French agent, and the virtues of the venerable abbot, are
described in a recent publication ; and the truth of the account must forcibly strike the reader, as the
author cannot be suspected of partiality to the aristocracy and clergy of Switeerland.
*< With infinite concern I read that part of the leUer which speaks of the death of the abbot of En-
gelberg. It seems this venerable priest did not long survive the violent attack of the commissary
Mengaud. • • *
" The image of the venerable abbot for ever fills my imagination. His letter to the French com-
missary was so unlike the message of a sovereign prince, of a neutral and independent power, that it
was framed to have flattered the vanity, and softened tlie violence, of the most intrepid revolutionist.
Alas! he had been no enemy to the French revolution !....he loved mankind too well t* condemn an ex-
periment in its favour : to promote general happiness was the sole purpose of his life, and, while the
„J
742
coxii's rnAVLLs in switzerlano,
Several incflectual expeditions have been made towards attaining the summit of Mount
Titlis, the most rk itcd mountuin in these parts, and perhaps scarcely inferior to the
Schreckhorn and Jungfrauhorn ; it was fur a long time considered as inaccessible : but,
as tradition reported, that in the year 1739 three men had ascended, Freygrabend, ana-
tive of Engclberg, and physician to the abbot, a few days after my departure from the
convent, succeeded in a similar attempt. The following account of this expedition is
extracted from a German letter, written by the physician himself to a friend at Lucem :
" Early in the morning on the 14th of September, the weather being fine and clear, I
aet out with eleven companions, among whom were Jerom Dopier and Conrad Stochcr,
two friars of the convent. About two m the morning, after ascending through Gerschne,
and Unter and Oberlaub, we reached, at break of day, the summit of the Laubergrat.
Here we enjoyed a fine view over the canton of Underwalden, the lake and canton of
Lucern, the free bailliages, and the canton of Zug.. Having taken some refreshment,
and reposed ourselves u {|uarter of an hour, we put on our crampons, and pursued our
route, eager, like the giants of old, to scale the steep sides of Mount Faulblatten. Wc
continued about an hour along the piked ridge of this mountain, tottering by the side of
tremendous precipices, and twice climbing an ascent almost perpendicular. Wc could
not observe any trace of the smallest vegetation. Having gained the highest point of the
Faulblatten, we arrived at a glacier, which being fortunately covered with fresh snow,
rendered the ice less slippery than usual.
" Hitherto our course was attended with some danger, but from hence we ascended
and reached with little difficulty the top of the Titlis, called Nollen. But here we were
obliged to cross a deep chasm, and to mount the sides of the ice, which were as perpen-
dicular as a wall, by forming steps for our feet with the iron spikes of our poles : below
us was a valley of ice about sixteen miles in length, descending rapidly towards Oberhasli.
It was now about ten in the morning, and the sun was extremely bright. Having
walked a few paces, the prospect was on all sides open and unbounded. The sublime,
yet dreary scene, though it surpasses all description, made an impression on my mind
which I shall never forget. • •
"Here the painter and poet would find ample and endless employment, if the colours
of the painter and the conceptions of the poet could resist the effects of the extreme
cold. The first objects which caught our attention, were the Alps of the Vallais, Bern,
and Savoy, with their glaciers and vallies of ice ; a majestic and tremendous scene.
Among numerous mountains which rose before us, Mont-Blanc, though at some dis-
tance, reared its head above the rest ; near us towered the Schreckhorn, Wetterhom,
and Jungfrauhorn, but less elevated in appearance than the point on which we stood.
Below us we observed a valley of ice about two miles in breadth, and of such im-
mense length, that one extremity seemed to join Mont-Blanc, and the other to be closed
abbot of Engelbcrg existed, there was at least one sovereign prince who lived only for his people ; who
for them had corrected the frugality of nature ; who had formed a paradise on the icy confines of the
world; who hud excluded the moi*al winter of the soul, and, while the tempest raged without, had
opened a spring of happiness in every heart ****** ....who had not only scattered bles-
sings in profusion, hut made his people participators of his power." » • •
*'Thc gentle spirit of the good old abbot was not proof against such a rude compound of ignorance
and inhumanity. He appeared fitted for the enjoyment of a long and virtuous old age, but has sunk
prematurely to the tomb ! The remembrance of his virtues will be for ever embalmed in my heart;
he sleeps secure from farther insult; but his convent becomes the prey of revolutionary inquisitors."
....Sketches of the State of Manners and Opinions in the French Republic at the Close of the Eigh-
teenth Century.
1 .
Mount
to the
e : but,
d, a na>
om the
ition is
-ucem :
clear, I
tocher,
rschne,
>ergrat.
nton oi'
hment,
ed our
We
side of
c could
It of the
1 snow,
AND IN THE COirNTllY Oi THE ORISONS.
743
by the Titlis. To the cast, the Uothstock, the Plangcn, and the mountains of Uri,
neither so wild nor so elevated as those to the south ; and towards the north- v\'(st, the
eye reposed itself over the less dreary and more cultivated parts of Switzerland, as far
as the borders of Alsace and Suabia. Immediately below us we noticed the abbey, and
heard the sound of several mortars, which the abbot ordered to be fired as a signal that
we were also seen : by means of a small telescope I observed the fire and smoke, and
five minutes elapsed before the sound reached us, not in a straight direction, but re-
echod between the surrounding rocks. We had proposed to kindle a fire, and to let
off some hand-grenades, but the cold prevented us from striking fire. Not being able
to support its extremity more than three quarters of an hour, although the sun shone
very bright, and we kept ourselves in contmual motion, we placed a black flag on the
highest point.
" We were as fortunate in descending as in mounting. We came to the Unter-
Titlis at half past eleven ; to the Tiaubergrat at one, where we again took some refresh-
ment, and having let off our grenades, reached the abbey at five in the afternoon. We
felt no permanent inconvenience from this expedition ; our faces were only swelled, and
our skins peeled, from the reflection of the sun, and for some hours after my return to
Engelberg, I lost my sight and my hearing, both which however I soon recovered. Un-
doubtedly the TiUis is the highest mountain in Switzerland, excepting Mont-Blanc, to
which it is not much inferior."
It is to be regretted, that this expedition was only a mere effort of curiosity, and that
the ingenious physician carried with him neither thermometer nor barometer. His
assertion that tne TiUis is higher than any mountain in Switzerland, will, for this reason,
and without farther proofs, admit of much doubt ; its elevation, though very consi-
derable, must be greatly inferior to that of Mont-Blanc, as will appear by considering
that the expedition from the plain of Engelberg to the top of Titlis was performed in
eight hours; whereas Dr. Paccard and James Balma employed fifteen in attaining the
summit of Mont-Blanc ; and the place from which they took their departure is probably
much higher above the level of the sea than the valley of Engelberg.
August 25.
Travellers, in going from Engelberg to Altdorf, usually ' return to Stantz or
Buochs, embark on the lake of Lucern, and proceed the rest of the way by water ; but
as I had already visited those places, I preferred following the route across the mountains.
The morning being obscure and rainy, we were detained till nine o'clock, when the
weather clearing up I set out, in company with Messrs. Balthazar and Meyer, of Lucern.
Passing through the plain of Engelberg, we admired on our left a fine waterfall, which
precipitates itself from Mount Engel, and in about a league arrived at a cottage belong,
ing to the abbey, where we found two peasants employed in making cheese, and re-
galed ourselves with some excellent cream. From this point we mounted gently by
the side of the Aa, leaving on the rigl\{ the high Suren Alps, whose pointed tops occa-
sionally burst forth, amid the clouds and vapours ; about a mile from the cottage we
Quitted the abbot's horses, walked up a gradual ascent, passed a superb cataract of the
la, and reached a chapel noted in these parts for a small bell, which, according to tra-
dition, was the gift of a French traveller. Near this chapel we observed a hut, which
is in the canton of Uri, from whence the ascent was steeper, but not difficult ; we crossed
mmj drifts of snow, and were incommoded by a keen wind and frequent showers of
sleet, hail, and rain. At length, in about four hours after our departure from the ab-
bey, we reached a cross planted on the highest point ; from thb elevation we should
<m'
;44
r.OXF/s TRAVELS IN SWITZERLANH,
have enjoyed a most superb view, greatly admired by travellers, on one side towards
Uri and the chain of the St. Gothard, and on the other towards Kngclbcr^j, and the
lake of Lticern, had not the weather totally obscured the prospect. From this point
the Titlis is much extolled for its beautiful and majestic appearance.
From hence wc descended the Enkeberg into a most barren region, amid a harvest of
pointed rocks, and over numerous drifts of snow, and fallen fragments of stone, inter*
mixed with small patches of russet herbage, which contributed to increase the dreariness
of the scene. Our descent continued above an hour and an half, along a bare slippery
rock of slate, or in the bed of torrents, or over large masses of ice and snow, when wc
observed several huts scattered in a small plain. From their first appearance we con-
cluded that we should presently reach them, but the precipices were so steep, the paths
so rugged, and the distance so much greater than we at Hrst imagined, that it employed
us above an hour and an half.
The little valley, in which these huts are situated, is called Wald-nacht Alp, contains
n small quantity of underwood, and feeds a hundred and thirtv-three cows, beside a few
sheep, goats, and hogs. The pr^nants employed in tendmg the cattle and making
cheese, usually arrive on the 20th of June, and remain about u hundred days. The
owner of the hut in which wc dried our clothes, makes every day during that period
two cheeses of twenty-five pounds each, from the milk of eighteen cows.
Having taken some refreshment, and recovered our fatigue, we continued along the
valley through some groves of poplars and firs, and at its furthest extremity cume to a
single cottage seated on an eminence, the first house on this side which is habitable in
winter. A little further we had a prospect of the town and environs of Altdorf ; the
fertile vale of Schackeren, which, though a very steep ascent, yet from this elevation
seemed a level plain ; the lake of Uri, which looked like a small rivulet ; and the distant
mountains reaching beyond the St. Gothard. The descent, through rich fields and
pastures, was extremely steep and tedious, as the grass was rendered slippery by the
rain, and wc did not arrive at Altdorf till seven in the evening, wet and exceedingly
fatigued; but much pleased with our expedition. This psissage from Engelberg to Alt-
dorf is estimated at seven leagues. A chasseur may perform it in four hours ; a traveller
accustomed to mountains, in six ; and a person unused to such fatigue, will require
eight or ten hours.
LETTER XXVII.
Valley qf Schoellenen....DevWs Bridge....VaUey of Urserea....VaUey and mountain of'
St. Gothard.... Sources oj the Tesmo and Beuss.
St. Gothardt Aug. 9.
SWITZERLAND is a most delightful countr}', and merits the particular observa-
tion of the traveller, as well for the diversity of the governments, as for the wonderful
beauties of nature; but the impositions of the inn-keepers, and the difficulty of procuring
horses,^ are inevitable taxes for the enjoyment of these its delights. These little in-
* I would recommend to all travellers who traverse the canton of Uri in order to visit the Alps,
either to hire horses at Lucern, or to bespeak them against thuir arrival at Altdorf. If wc fortunate-
ly had not taken the latter precaution, we should have found no less difficulty in procuring horses in
1785 than in 1776; notwithstanding all the good offices of our landlord at the Black Lion, who, know-
ing that I was the author of Letters on Switzerland, was extremely anxious to wipe away certain asper-
sions which, in the beginning of this letter, seem to glance at his native town. The two Mr. Cliffords,
whom we met at Engelberg, and who to our great satisfaction, accompanied us in our tour as far as
Geneva, were obliged to pursue their journey on foot, not being able to procure more than one horse,
which was appropriated to their baggage.
^\
• -
aan*.
tuAt^ t> f>
• H':!' ''
■ •'■•I,''' ,•> 'V
vfif----.
■^" '■»' . ■^^^:>
,:^
m--i'
■••i
%
^'
^ifd iff-
(^■W,- ; J *
r ■'. S, ^ *■ ^ }, ^i
.n:.y^
,/At Jeir// ^ j^rV^'/w ^//(^//Jn^iz/i/.
A\i> IN rnr. coi'nthv ov luv. r.iiiiuN'.
ilJ
i.onvciiicntTS, however, shouUl l)c borne \\\\U patkntr mid ^ooi li. ,•' »tir i nor will I
trouble yuii with any nplcnctic complaintit of tiioNc uiiitUas.int ciri.amsiaitcc*i \vlti<.:!i
muitt (Kcur to all travellers.
Quitting AUdorf, wc panned nt first through a ftrtilc pl.iiii of panturr, it\ uhich tli. i'l
liabitant!t, were employed in mowing the second crop of hay, and in about nine iniU <
begun ascending. The roJtd winds continually along the siteep nid* h of t!ie moniitains.
and the Hcuss sometimes appeared several hundred yards below us ; here rushing a con.
siderubic way through a forest of pines, there fulling in ctseadcs, and losing itself itt tin.
valley. We crossed it several times, over bridges of a single arch, and beh< Id it lumb^
ling under our feet, in channels which it had forced throngii the soli' rock ; innumera-
ble torrents roaring down the sides of the mountains, which were sometimes b.nc, soir.c>
times finely wooded, with here nnd there some fantastic trees clothing the sides of tlu'
precipice, and half obscuring the river. The darkness and solitude of the forests, the
occasional liveliness nnd variety of the verdure, immense frugmfrnts of rock blended
with enormous masses of ice ; crags of nn astonishing height piled upon one another,
and shutting in U\c vale ; such arc the sublime and magnificent scenes with which thi>
romantic country abounds.
Nenr Wascn is the valley of Mcycn ; the torrent that dushcs through it, nnd falls into
the Rcuss, forms a series of grand cataracts, which the tnveller mav enjoy by venturin; j
to the edge of the precipice, and supporting himself against an mipending pine th U
overlooks the gulf.
We set out this morning early from Wascn, a small village where wc passed the
night ; and continued advancing for some way up a rugged ascent, through :lte same
wild and beautiful tract of country which I have just attempted to describe. We could
scarcely walk a hundred yards without crossing several torrents, and rolled with violence
from the tops of the mountains. This being one of the grtat passes into Italy, we met
many pack-horses laden with merchandise ; and as the road in particular parts is very
narrow, it required some dexterity in the horses to pass one another without jostling.
These roads, impending over precipices, cannot fail of inspiring terror to travellers, who
are unaccustomed to them ; more particularly as the mules and horses do not keep in
the middle of the tract, but continue crossing from the side of the mountain towards
the edge of an abyss, then turn aslant abruptly ; thus forming, if I may so express m} -
self, a constant zig-zag.
Thus far the country appeared to be tolerably well peopled ; we passed through se-
veral villages situated towards the bottom and less narrow part of the valley ; thcf sides
of the mountains were occasionally strewed with cottages, covered with forests, or en-
riched with pastures. Still continuing to ascend, the scenery beyond Wasen suddenly
changing, became more wild and desert ; there were no traces of trees, except here and
there a stubbed pine ; tlic rocks were bare, craggy, and impending ; not the least sign of
any habitation, and scarcely a blade of grass to be seen. We then came to a bridge
thrown across a deep chasm over the Reuss, which formed a considerable cataract down
the shagged siCcs of the mountain, and over immense fragments of rock which it has
undermined in its course. This bridge is called Teufels-bruck, or the Devil's Bridge.
As we stood upon the bridge contemplating the fall and listening to the roar of the ca-
taract, we were covered with a spray, which the river threw up to a considerable hcigiit.
These arc sublime scenes of horror, of which those who have not been spectators ca\i
form no perfect idiia : they defy the representations of painting or poetry.*
•Many travellers luivc Ltii disappointed on the first view of the Devil's bridge. Itoiiglitthcrcforclo
be remarked, that the bridm; itself, tttou({li of difliciiUcxcciiiioii, is u iriflinij object, und not so slupcn-
VOL. v. 5 c
716
COXE'S TRAVELS IN ^WITZEfi L AN D,
Not far from this cUsolate landscape the road led us into the Urncr-locli, a subter-
rancous passiige cut through a rock of granite,* which opened at the opposite entrance
into the sinnc and cultivated valley of Urbcrcn : the objects that presented themselves
were a village backed by a high mountain, and a wood of pin<s ; peasants at work in the
fields, cattle feeding in the meadows, and the river, which was lately all foam and agita-
tion, now fiowtd silently and smoothly ; while the sun, which had been hidden from
us in the deep abyss, shone in its full splendour. In general, there is a regular gradation
from extreme wilclncss to high cultivation ; but here the transitioi^ was abrupt, and the
change instantaneous ; it was like the lifting up of a curtain, and had all the eflfect of
enchantment.
In this valley are four villages, Urseren, Hopital, Realp, and Zundorf ; forming a
small republic under the protection of Uri. The territory of this little commonwealth
is about nine miles in length and two in breadth, and contains thirteen hundred souls.
The people elect, in their general assembly, their Talamman or chief, as also some other
magistrates ; and there is a permanent council of fifteen members, who assemble in each
of the different districts. The inhabitants enjoy great privileges, but are not absolutely
independent: for, in civil causes, an appeal lies from their courts of justice to Alt-
dorf, and in criminal proceedings, two deputies from the government of Uri are pre-
sent at the trial, and deliver to the judges of the valley the opinion of the Council of
Altdorf.
Notwithstanding the considerable elevation of this valley, and the coldness of the air
even at this season of the year, it produces excellent pasture. The only wood therein
is the small plantation of pines above the village of Urseren, which is preserved with
uncommon care and reverence, and a small quantity of underwood and stubbed willows,
that feather the banks of the Reuss. In the adjacent country there are several mines of
crystal, of which a considerable quantity is exported. The language of the natives is a
kind of provincial German, but almost every person speaks Italian.
(lous as many others in Switzerland ; and that it is the wild and majestic scenery that astonishes
aud exalts the beholder. This bridge was destroyed by the French in 1799, and the torrent was
passed by Marshal Suwarof and the Russians, when he made his famous retreat.
Perhaps the reader will not be displeased to contemplate Suwarof 's picture of this sublime scenery,
in his dispatch to the emperor of Russia, dated Feldkirch, Oct. 3. O. S.
"Our army left the frontiers of Italy regretted by all the inhabitants, but with the glory of having
liberated that country, and traversed a chain of dreadful mountains. Here St. Gothard, the colossus of
mountains, surrounded by clouds impregnated with thunder, presents itself to our view ; there the
Vogelberg, striving, as it were, to eclipse the former in terrific grandeur ! All dangers, all obstaclesarc
surmounted ; and, amidst the combat of elements, the enetny cannot withstand the brave army which
suddenly appears on this new theatre ; every where they arc driven back. Your imperial majesty's
troops penetrated the dark mountain cavern of Urseren, and made themselves masters of the bridge
which joins two mountains, and justly bears the name of the Devil's bridge. Though the enemy des-
troyed it, the progress of the victorious troops was not impeded ; boards were tied together with the
officers scarfs, and along that bridge they threw themselves from the highest precipices into tremen-
dous abysses, fell in with the enemy, and defeated them wherever they could reach them. It now re-
mained for our troops to climb Mount Winter, the summit of which is covered with everlasting snow,
und whose naked rocks, surpass every other in steepness. Almost buried in mud, they were obliged
to ascend through cataracts rolling down with impetuosity, hurling with irresistible foire huge frag-
ments of rock, and masses of snow and clay, by which numbers of men and horses were impelled
down the gaping caverns, where some found their graves, and others escaped with the greatest diffi-
culty. It is beyond the powers of language to paint this awful spectacle of nature in all its horrors."
* This passage was hollowed in 1707, by Peter Moretini, a native of Val-Maggia, attheexpencc of
the inhabitants in the valley of Uiscrcn. It is nine feet in breadth) ten in height, and two hundred
and twenty in length.
tm.^
AND IN THE COUNTRY OF THE ORISONS.
747
li, a subter-
ite entrance
i themselves
work in the
n and agita-
hidden from
!ar gradation
upt, and the
the effect of
forming a
nmonwealth
ndrcd souls.
3 some other
mble in each
ut absolutely
stice to Alt-
Uri are pre-
e Council of
:ss of the air
ivood therein
eserved with
bed willows,
:ral mines of
natives is a
that astonishes
he torrent was
blimc scenery,
^lory of having
the colossus of
lew ; there the
11 obstacles arc
ve army which,
srial majesty's
I of the bridge
he enemy des-
ether with the
s into tremen-
111. It now rc-
rlasting snow,
f were obliged
■re huge frag-
vere impelled
greatest tlifii-
II its horrors."
heexpencc of
two hundred
The valley of Urseren is a small plain surrounded by hif^h mountains, covered with
pasture terminating in barren rocks, in many parts capped with snow. Ni-ar the middle
of this beautiful plain we turned to the left, and entered the valley of St. Gothurd, filled
with the ruins of broken mountains ; the Reuss, a most rapid and vehement torrent,
bursting through it; on each side immense shattered blocks of granite, of a beautiful
grayish colour (and of which the summits of these Alps are compobcd) confusedly
piled together.
The valley of St. Gothard, though not so wild as that of Schoellenen, is yet exceed-
ingly dreary. It does not contain a single shed, or produce a single tree ; and the sides
of the mountains are barely sprinkled with short herbage. The extremity i^ closed by
the still ruder and naked rocks of the Feudo, supporting in its hollow vast masses of*
snow, while the superb glacier of the Loccndro towers above the adjacent heights. It
is about two leagues from Urseren to this place ; but the road, considering the rugged-
ness of the rocks and the steepness of the ascent is not incommodious ; it is from nine
to twelve feet broad, and almost as well paved as the streets of London.
We are now lodged at a house inhabited by two Italian friars from the convent of
Capuchins at Milan, who receive all strangers that pass through these inhospitable re-
gions. One of the friars is absent, so that 1 am in possession of his bed-chamber : it is
a snug little room, where a man may sleep very well without being an anchorite, and
which, after the fatigues of our journey, I enjoy with a satisfaction much too sensible to
envy the luxury of a palace. Our host has just supplied us with a dinner, consisting of
delicious trout, with which the neighbouring lake of Loccndro abounds, eggs and milk,
together with excellent butter and cheese; both made in this dreary spot.
Upon our arrival we were rejoiced to find a good fire ; the weather being so exceed-
ingly cold, that I, who was only clad in a thin camlet coat, entered the house half frozen.
It is singular to find, at the distance of only a day's journey, such a difference in the cli-
mate : the air is absolutely in a freezing state ; and I just now passed by a boy at work,
who was blowing his fingers to warm them. If the cold is so pierchig in the midst of
summer, how intolerable must it prove in December? The snow begins to fall the lat-
ter end of September ; and the lakes about this spot are frozen during eight months in the
year.
I am just returned from visiting the sources of the Tesino and the Reuss, which rise
within a short distance of each other. The Tesino has three principal sources in the
chain of the St Gothard. The first is a spring near the foot of the Prosa, entirely co-
vered with frozen snow, or, when that is melted, with fallen fragments of rock, through
which it trickles in numerous currents, that unite and help to form a small lake ; from
this piece of water it communicates with two other lakes, and issues in a more r.onsider-
able torrent.
The lake of La Sella, in another part of the eastern chain, supplies the second source ;
the third is furnished by the snows of Mount Feudo. These three sources uniting with
another branch, that flows from the Furca through the valley of Bcdreto, form one great
torrent, which takes its course towards the south, enters the lake of Locarno, a:>d, traver-
sii.g part of the Milanese, falls into the Po. .
The source of the Reuss is the lake of Locondro, an oblong piece of water about
three miles in circumference, stretching between the mountains of Petina and Locendro,
and almost entirely supplied by the immense glaciers which crown the summit of the
Locendro. The stream issuing from this lake rushes down the valley of St. Gothard,
and, joining in the vale of Urseren the two branches which com^j from the Furca on one
5 c2
I*.
ria
COXE's travels in SWITZERLAND,
Side, and from the Grison mountains on the other, flowrs towards the north into the lake
of Luccrn, and from thence throws itself into the Aar.
Within a day's journey is the source of the Rhine in the Grisons, and about the dis>
tance of three leagues, that of the Rlione in the Fiirca, which mountain we shall pass to<
morrow. We are still surrounded by high rugged rocks, and inaccessible glaciers, so
that our view is much confined ; though I walked above a league towards Italy, in hopes
of enjoying an extensive prospect over that delightful country, yet I could observe
nothing but rocks, precipices, and torrents.
I am at this instant near * seven thousand feet jperpendicular above the level of the
sea : no inconsiderable height, most certainly. Nevertheless, if I give credit to those
who usscrt, that this mountain is the loftiest point in Europe, I should raise myself in
idea above twice as high ; but I have reason to think, that this opinion is founded upon
false calculations. Mikeli, who measured the principal mountains of Switzerland, but
who is very inaccurate in his calculations, considers the St. Gothard as the highest ; and
he estimates its elevations above the sea at 17,600 feet. But, so far from beuig of that
height, it is by no means the highest ground of Switzerland ; and there is probably not
one mountain cither in Europe, Asia, or Africa of that altitude. According to general
Pfiifer, the summit of the St. Gothard rises above the sea 9,075 feet ; an elevation con<
siderably less than that of iEtna and Tenet iflf, and still more inferior to several moun-
tains in the great chain of Alps, to which we are bending our course.
August 1785.
On my entrance into the little plain in which the friar's house is situated, although the
air was exceedingly keen, I did not experience that piercing cold which I felt in 1776 ;
but the day was fine, and the sun shone unclouded. When we arrived at the house the
friar was saying mass to an audience of about twenty persons, many of whom come from
the neighbounng Alps, where they are tending cattle, to divine service on Sundays and
festivals. At the conclusion of mass, the friar, whose name is Francis, immediately re>
collected, and received me with great satisfaction. He is well known to all travellers
that pass this way, having already inhabited this dreary spot above twenty years. Since
my last expedition, he has considerably enlarged his house, and rendered it extremely
commodious. It contains at present, besides several sitting-rooms, kitchens, and an
apartment for the family, nine small bu neat bed-chambers appropriated to travellers.
The expence of this addition has already amounted to 3001. part of which he collected
in various districts of Switzerland ; an equal sum is required to discharge the present
debts, and to make the further necessary improvements, which he hopes to procure by
another collection.
Friar Francis obligingly accompanied me about the environs, and favoured me with
the following particulars, in addition to my former account : The chain of mountains
which immediately surrounds this place takes the general appellation of St. Gothard,
and its particular parts are called by different names ; of which the principal are the
Salla, Prosa, and Surecha, to the east ; the Feudo, the Petina, and the Locendro, to the
west ; to the north, the Ursino ; and to the south, the ridge of naked and piked rocks
of the Val-Maggia. Of these the Feudo is the most elevated : its highest point rises
more than 2000 feet above the plain in which stands the friar's house, and requires
* According to M. de Saussure, the spot upbn which tlic house- of the Capuchin friars is buih, U
1,061 French toises above the sea.
AND IN THE COUNTRY OF THE ORISONS.
749
three hours to reach it. There arc six pastures on the neighbouring heights, on whicli
are fed two liundrcd co\vs» a hundred and fifty goats, and thirty horses.
On t xamining at midday Reaumur's thermometer, placed in the shade in a northern
aspect, I was much surprised to find that the mercury stood at -h above freezing point,
or 46 of Fahrenheit, although the northern wind was exceedingly keen, and, if I
had judged from my own feehngs, I should have concluded that the air was in a freez-
ing state.
About four years ago the elector of Bavaria sent to the friar several barometers, ther-
mometers, and other meteorological instruments, which enabled him to note the vari.
ations of the atmosphere, and to form a series of observations. In the most extreme
cold he ever experienced in these parts, the mercury in Reaumur's thermon.cter fell to
19 degrees below freezing point, or — 10 of Fahrenheit.
In 1784, Greatest heat on the 13th of September, it stood at 13, or 61^ ol Fahren
heit. Greatest cold at— 17, or 8^ of Fahrenheit.
M. de Luc's barometer never rose higher than ► - 22*> 3' 1''
Or feUIower than 20 9 9
It appeared from observations made in 1784, that the average state of the thermometer
and barometer was as follows :
Thermometer. Barometer.
Nine in the > g^ ^^ Reaumur, or 28 of Fahrenheit - 21° 9' 2"
monung, 5
Mid-day —0 -- or 32 — . 21 9 3
^^J^j^^ ? 1—3 lines,— or29i — - 21 9 4
In the same year it snowed during some part of 118 days ; rained 78; cloudy 293 ;
tempest, with hail, 12 ; thunder and lightning 22 ; rainbow 4. ""'-" -* **^'* """ '^
and round the moon 2. Serene days 87.
Halos round the sun 2,
LETTER XXVIIL
Passage and Glacier of the Furca,...Sourre of the Rhone.
Munsterin the Vallais^ jiugust 11, 1776.
I ARRIVED here late yesterday evening, and so fatigued that I was incapable of
writing, but I am this morning refreshed with a comfortable sleep, and in spirits to con-
tinue my journal. I took leave of our host at St. Gothard, and walked alone, for about
two leagues, down the valley. I frequently quit my party, and either go on before, or
loiter behind, that I may enjoy uninterrupted, and with a sort of melancholy pleasure,
these sublime exhibitions of nature in her most awful and tremendous forms. I entered
the valley of Urseren at Hopital, and was again struck with the strong contrast between
that cultivated vale and the desolate country 1 had just quitted. At the same time I en-
joyed a most sublime view of the high chain that encloses the vale of Urseren, and par-
ticularly noticed the towering rocks which stand in the country of the Grisons, one of
them supporting on its rugged top a glacier, from which the Rhine takes its rise. We
passed through the small village of Zundorf, and stopped at Realp, to procure some re-
freshment, and bait our horses. From thence we soon reachtd the extrenuty of the
valley of Urseren ; where we began ascending a path so narrow, steep, and rugged, that
I suspected wc iiad missed our way, as it seemed almost impracticable for horses ; upon
mm
750
COXE's XnAVKLS IN SWITZERLAND,
their arrival however I mnunted, being fatigued with my walk from St. Gnthard to
Ucalp. It WHS a single path, up a steep momitaiu, where a horse, with s(>'ne disrerity,
could just put one leg before the other: this path sometimes lay upon ihi nlge of a
prcciptee, very craggy and stony; where, if my steed had happened to stumble, wc
must both inevitably have perished. But as I knew he was no more inclined than my-
self to roll down the precipice, I flung ihe bridle upon his ma.ie, and entrustul myself
to his direction. Nor had 1 any reason to repent of my confld.'uce; for, in the bad
and dangerous parts, he never once tripped ; where it was smoother and safer, indeed,
he knew he had a licence to l)e more careless.
We came at length to a torrent, through which we drove our horses with some diffi-
culty, and crossed it by means of a plank ; a little farther we arrived at another, deeper
and more violent, over which tliere uas no bridge, nor the least appearance ol any track
on the other side ; it was a considerable distance from any habitation, and our guide un-
acquainted with the road. Alter some observation we discovered that the mountain had
lately fallen down, and overwhelmed the path, leaving only a very faint narrow track
on the side of the precipice, along which my companions scrambled upon their hands
and knees. While I was crossing the torrent on horseback, I heard a scream, and,
turning round, saw one of our servants seized with a panic on the very edge of the
precipice, and vehemently exclaiming, that he could neither get f()rward8 or back-
wards. Nevertheless, w iih some assistance, he passed over, declaring, at the same time,
t!ii)t he would take care never to put himself again in a similar situation. We now re-
gained a kind ot path, but so extremely steep that we prudently dismpunted, and sufler>
cd the horses to make their own way. With much difficulty, and, after crossing several
large drills of ice and snow, the torrents at the same time rumbling under our feet, wc
reached, by a very stttp ascent, the summit of the Furca. A number of rugged and
forked rocks piled one above another have occasioned, it is said, this chain to be Ciilied
the Furca. The country immediately around was as dreary and desolate as the valley
of Sehoellenen ; all vegetation seemed to have ceased ; Lower down, the mountains
Mere covered with herbage and sweet-scented flowers; near us, but higher on the left,
between the filaueberg and the Lugnetz, lay a large body of ice, fium which issued a
torrent,* probably one of the first sources of the Rhone. In a word, the majestic ob-
jects thai ;iresented themselves to our view, formed a most astonishing and sublime
scene.
From hence we descended broken rocks and craggy precipices for a considerable way.
By this time I was su iuueh fatigued, thatl was glad to sit down and take some refresh-
ment, consisting of bread, cheese, and hard eggs, the only provision we could procure
at Realp. We were seated by a stream of clear water ripling down the side ol a moun-
tain so exceedingly steep, that our humble repast would have rolled away if it h;id not
betn supported. In full view before Uh was the glacier of the Furca ; an immense valley
of ice, extending at least three miles in length and near a mile ip breadth, between the
Gletcherberg and the Satzberg, rocks more shagged, if possible, than any ol thi neigh-
bouring mountains : it stretches from their feet, fills up the intervening chasm, and
reaches almost to their summits. The rays of the sun caused it to glisten like ervsial,
while the blue tints reflected on the surlace appeared inexpressibly beautiful. The ice
seemed to break in several parts, as we heard some loud and deep cracks; the torrent
• 1 was informed by u fruir oi Realp, who travels much in these parts, that this torrent, whici is
turj'id ill summtr, is in wiiUcr us Irai'hpuient as the clearest sprinjf ; unci tlwt whiii the ituniiii. >oh
of the snow prevents it Irum flowiii)' nndcr the glacier of the Fincu, it then forms a lake, runs over
the ice, and rushes to the Vallais wiih the waters it receives in its course.
jothard to
ckxrcrity,
nlge ot" a
imble, we
than my.
ticl myself
in the bud
T, indeed,
some diffi'
er, deeper
any track
gnide un-
iunt»in hud
rrow track
heir hands
ream, and,
dge of the
!> ur back-
same time,
/e now re-
and buffer,
ing several
Lir feet, wc
'ugged and
3 be called
the valley
mountains
on the left,
:h issued a
lujcstie ob-
id sublime
erablc way.
me rcfresh-
jkl procure
ol a nionn.
r it h;id not
lense valley
leiween the
I thi neigh-
.'hasm, and
like ervsial,
. The ice
the torrent
■eiit, whici is
iHUnilll, .OR
kc, runs uver
m
«"
( <••
, ,. •• J-, ^
«i<^5-.Hv 'jj Jt. -;,■'"!,..
„*: ."
'1X?:;''^:^\'
■3
' •^•f*' .
-a
1^'
:ii£i'*,im* U^! ,Ai^*Jm^mU:i!J <^tm>tmti:Mijm%>- ,■,■,.■; (cai
AND IN THI COUNTRV Cr THE ORISONS.
r5i
£•
VI «tM <
■Wi
■I*
^^i
«*♦{:■
Jiij^ (mi
of the Rhone at the same time roaring beneath. That river i» chiefly formed l)y this
glacier : the small torrent, which bursts from the body of ice between the Bl.meberg
and the Lugnetz, being joined by several strcanis, loses itself under the vast arch of ice
that forms the bottom of the glacier, issues considerably augmented, and is the great
and principal source from whence the Rhone takes its rise. The range of mountains
on which we were setting was overspread with underwood and herbage, and some cattle
were feeding along the heights : a fme contrast to the sterility of the opposite chain,
which appeared for some extent nothing but bare rock, except where it was covered with
ice and frozen snow.
Having finished our banouct, and reposed ourselves for a short time, in contemplation
of the scene, we desccndea to the bottom of the glacier, where we admired the Rhone
breaking forth with violence from the bed of ice, near the huge fragments of a fallen
rock. Wc now followed the course of that river, and proceeded down a mountain so
steep, that several parts of the road winding along its sides were frccjucntly parallel to
each otlier. The scenery of the valley, which we now entered, was of the same nature
as that of Schoellenen ; the Rhone foaming with amazing rapidity, and falling in a con-
tinual cataract at the foot of irregular and immeasurable Alps. We travelled through
this valley above two leagues, perpetually ascending or descending the rugged sides of
rocks ; one moment close to the river, and the next some hundred yards above it.
At first, the rocks were either bare, or studded with a few straggling pines, but as we
advanced, became more and more clothed with wood and verdure ; still, however, wc
observed no traces of any habitation, and we had now measured at least fifteen miles
from the valley of Urscren, without seeing a single dwelling. I was here so struck with
the beauty of the forests and the luxuriance of the pasture, that I could not avoid ex-
pressing my astonishment, on observing no appearance of any habitation in these delight-
ful spots. I had scarcely made the remark, when four or five cottages, situated on the
other side of the Rhone upon a beautiful declivity, announced our approach to the Val-
lais. Not long afterwards we unexpectedly came to an opening, which commanded
an extensive view of that fertile vale, containmg several scattered villages. In this very
spot, a peasant of taste has built his cottage. Here we quitted the rugged track, and de-
scended into the Vallais.
We had proposed passing the night at Oberwald, after the fatigues of the day, but
upon inquiry, found no refreshment. The mastei of a little hovel, which was called
an inn, pointed to a large cheese, and told us that was all his provision : it was his bread,
his fish, and his meat. As there was no better accommodation at Oliergestlen, we
continued our route to Munster, where wc did not arrive till late ; here we found an
excellent inn for this country, which afibrded good bread, and even some meat ; but,
what was far more comfortable to mc, a quiet room and a clean bed. I am &c.
LETTER XXIX.
• ■
Mount Grimsei,.,. Source of the Jar.. ..Of the Chamois.
Spital upon the Grimsel, August ll"
THE Vallaisans are remarkably attached to their liberty. On quitting Monster this
morning we joined company with a ))easant, with whom we had a long conversation.
He demanded our opinion of the country ; and, pointing to tlie mountaiivs, exclaimed,
"Behold our walls and bulwarks; Constantinople is not so strongly fortified." This
upper part of the Vallais, I should imagine, is not much frequented by travellers, if we
may judge from the curiosity of the people, who all came out to gaze upon us ; and, ou
V52
COXK's TRAVCLI in IWirZKllLANL,
discovcriiiff that wc were Englishmen, they obiierved \\% with greater attention. But
what Hurpriscd us was, that the peasant above- nicutioned iu(|uired cunccruiiig the itate
of our war with the Americans.
AOcr returning about a league through the same fertile and well-cuhivated country
which we traversed yesterday, wc left tlic phiin, and ascended the Grimsel ; one of those
Alps which separate the Vallais from the canton of Bern. Wc employed four hours in
climbing a steep and craggy road to the summit, and should have considered the attempt
as scarcely practicable, nad wc not been encouraged by the experience of yesterday,
Wc crossed the several shades of vegetation : in the valley, and the lower parts of the
mountain, corn and rich meadows : then forests of larch and pine ; next short graas, tO'
gether whh several species of herbs, that afford exquisite pasture to the cattle ; to these
succeeded the various tribes of mosses and lichens ; then bare rock and snow. It would
\ic curious to construct, or at least to iniagitie, a scale of vegetation, according to the
iden of a French writer ; who asserts, that excessive cold and excessive heat are equally
pernicious. The tops of these mountains are barren, and produce no plants ; and at
certain heights nothuig but mosses and lichens will vegetate : the same occurs in cli>
mates where the heat is intolerable; us no other vegetable proiluJions are observed in
the burning sands of Africa. The lichens and mosses then, which support the cold bet-
ter than other plants, would form the first degree of a scale adjusted to determine how far
vegetation accords with the temperature of the atmosphere. The same families of plants,
ns they bear also the heat much better than any other, would occupy the last deme in
the scale. Thus, according to this fanciful scale, the two extremes touch each other
surprisingly.
From the top of the Grimsel we descended about two miles, and arrived at a small
plain or hollow in the midst of the mountains ; containing one solitary hovel, from which
I am now writing to you. Notwithstanding its wretched appearance, we found in this
desert spot all the accommodations we could wish for, except beds, and these are the
less necessary, after our sound sleep lost night. Not to mention excellent cheese, but*
ter, and milk (our ordinary fare) we obtained some good wine, a small portion of kid,
and a boiled marmot,^ which we have just devoured; although at another time we
should have revolted at the very idea. The landlord is stationed in this forlorn re*
gion by the canton of Bern, and resides in it about nine months ; he usually arrives
here on the first of March, and retires in the beginning of December. When he quits
the place, he leaves a certain quantity of cheese, hard oread, salted provision, and fuel,
in case any unfortunate wanderer should happen to come this way in winter ; and we
observed long poles fixed on both sides of tne track at small distances from each other,
in order to point out the path to travellers, who may chance to pass this mountain after
the snow has begun to fall. The road is seldom open for horses before the first of June.
Near the house, upon the top of a small rock, our host has contrived a kind of little
garden, by bringing some earth from the neighbouring pastures : this small piece of
ground supplies him tolerably well with turnips and cabbages ; although, on account
of the height of the circumjacent mountains, it does not long enjoy the warmth of
the sun.
Numerous herds of goats are kept, during the summer months, upon these moun-
tains : they are let out every morning to fee^ and return cveiv evening before sun-set,
to be milked and housed. It was a pleasing sight to observe them marching homeward
* See an account of the marmot, in letter Ixx. v
:
*-.k« -...vi-u
AND IN THI COUNTRY OF THE GRIIONQ.
J55
in the same herd, and following each other down the broken precipices, and along the
moved Hides of the rocks.
This hovel, besides the store-houses for cheese, contains only a small kitchen, a bed-
chamber appropriated to the family, and a room, in which wc arc now sittinf]^. VVc
occupy nearly one side : the other is taken up by our servantn, the landlord and his
wife and hall a dozen honest labourers : the latter arc partaking nf their honu-ly sup<
per, with oil the relish of wclKeamed hunger, and are enjoying a short respite from their
toil, with that noisy mirth which characterises this class of people.
The sources of the Aar are in these mountains. Near our hovel arc three lakes that
supply that river, which rolls down in an impetuous torrent from the neighbouring gla-
ciers. While dinner was preparing, we walked by the side of the Aar, searching for
crystals, which arc very common m these parts : we found pieces of divers colours,
white, black, yellow, and green. These mountains certainly abound also in rich veins
of gold, and other metals ; a considerable quantity of gold-dust being found in the bed
of the Aar,* and in the various torrents. I can conceive nothing more fatal to the
interests of Switzerland nor more repugnant to the liberties of the people, than to have
these mines of gold or silver traced and opened. A sudden overflow of riches would
eflfectually change and corrupt their manners : it is an incontestable truth, that tlie real
power of a country, not ambitious of conquest, is derived less from the wealth than from
the industry of its subjects : the happiness of a people, as well as of an individual, con-
sisting in contentment.
What a chaos of mountains arc here heaped upon one another ! a dreary, desolate but
sublime appearance : it looks like the ruins and wreck of a world.
On the Orimsei, Jugust 29, 1786.
You will recollect that, in 1776,t I described the passage of the Furca us extremely
difficult and attended with some danger. But that was my first essay over the less fre.
quented Alps. How different are our sensations at different intervals ! To-day, on
measuring the same ground, though I did not find the road as smooth as a bowling-green,
I yet never once dismounted, but rode with my letters on Switzerland in my hand oc
casionallv making notes and observations : it must, however, be confessed, that in many
parts, where a famt path along the crags and impending precipices was scarcely obvious,
my situation was not very favourable for accurate composition.
From the top of the Furca, instead of immediately descending and pursuing the same
road which I followed in 1776, we sent our horses forwards, and ascended the Gallebcrg
to the upper \xnt of the Glacier of the Furca : from thence we looked down upon the
Valais and the Rhone flowing through it, as upon a small field watered by a rill ; above
and around, and as far as the eye could reach, we observed numberless pointed Alps,
and particularly that stupendous chain called the Aar-Gletchers, which comprises, among
many others, the Finster-aar-horn, the Wetter-horn, the Jung-frau-horn, and the
Schreck-hom.
The upper part of this glacier of the Furca is far more beautiful than the lower ex-
tremity ; the snow is of a more virgin white ; the pyramids of ice more bold, and the
blue tints more lively and animated. Having enjoyed, in different directions, this icy
scene, we descended near the edge of the glacier, and refreshed ourselves with some
water from two transparent springs called ^ughstweitcht-brunnen, that burst from the
* It has been suggested to me, that no gold-dust is found in the Aar, until il has received (he Rc>-
chcnbach.
t See the preceding Letter.
VOL. V. • 5 J)
r
I
754
COXI*l TRAVILI IN IWITSIRLAKD,
kUlcs of tltc rcKk, at a smull diHtancc from rach other. We then went douii a very
ktcvp (liHCciit, till \vc ioiiteil thi* tnick which I piirMicd in 177C. I recollected with ■
pkiifiinK siiiiti'iictioii, tnc torrent near which we took on thni occusion our huml)lc repant,
iind came- to the Khonc ai)oul hall u mile IkIow the tpot where it biiriittt in two btaamx,
from the bottom oi the ^lueier. In order to have a nearer view, wc crossed the two
atri umH, which, though Hcnreeiy three (at in depth, rushed with buch violence, na ul-
niokt to overturn the ^uide wlio conveyed me on his shoulderH. Having admired the
areh of ice, nnd paid our oheisimce to the majentic habitation of the Hiver-God, wc
walked at the foot of the Siatzberfj^, and noticed several lively Hprinij^s issuing i'roni the
irround, which the inhabitantn call cold-waters, and a little rurthir three warm sources.*
These dourccs, imiting with several cold sprinKH, fall within a tew paces of their rise, into
the great torrent that Hows from the glacier, and arc usually considered as the true sources
vl the Khoiio. I'hat iionour is appropriated to these little rills, because, being of an equal
temperuiurc iit all seasons of the year, they do not owe their origin, like the cold waters,
to the melted snow and ice, and arc as abundant in winter as in summer. It appears,
however, extremely inconsistent to dignify these little aucains uiUi the exclusive title
of the sources of the Rhone : for that river undoubtedly owes its origin and greatness
to the |)er|Ktual and inexhaustible supplies from the surroiniding glaciers.
We had now employed above nine hours in this ex|K-dition, and should have conti-
nued much longer amid these majestic scenes, had not the declining sun reminded us
of a|)proaching night. Being still at a considerable distance from uny habitation, wc
contmued our route, and began ascending the Grimsel, near the warm sources. The
track, though extremely steep, and almost peri)endicular, was not dangerous, because
the rocks were thickly covered with small shrubs, herbage, and mosses.
After an hour and a quarter's tedious assent, wc attained the sunmiit of the Grimsel,
and descending a rugged ridge of granite rocks, looked down upon a lake, frcm which
^ I am indebted to Suussure fur correcting a trifling^ error in u former edition of this work, in which
I obbcrvcd that the mercury in Kcuumur's Uiem. muter stood at 10 above freezing point, or S3 of
Fahrenheit : but that ingentou* naturalist, on plunging the thormomctcr into one of thetic sources
found the mercury stand at I4| or 64. 7. of Fahrenheit.
The cxpcrimcntfi which Saussurc made in anulytting the waters, shall be inserted in his own words :
'* La hauteur do cettc source est, d'aprcs nies ohscrvutions du burnmetrc, dc 900 toiscs au-dcssus
dc la Meditcrrannce. Or, il est si extraordinarie dc trouver une source chaude a une tell elevation,
ci dc la trouver au milieu des glaces, qu'il ctoit interessant de rccherchcr sa nature, et de voir si
cctte recherche ne donneroit point d'indication sur la caus^ v!c sa chalcur.
•* Dans ce dcssein, j'y portai, en 1783, quclqucs rcactifs, avic dc pctits verres, quo je lavai dans I'eau
meme de la source, et j'cn (is I'epreuve sur les lieux. U' .vMution de soudc nc la trouble enaucune
maniere, non plus que I'acidc du sucre, phenomene bicn mvc, etqui prouve que ces eaux ne contien-
nent aucun sul a base terreusc. Mais la solution de tcrre pesantc dans I'acide marin, ou le muriate
de baryte, la trouble un peu ; ce qui indique la presence de I'acide vitriolique ; et comme d'un autre
cote, cette cau ne change nullemunt les coulcurs vcgctales, et qu'ainsi I'acidc nc paroissoit point etrc
libre, il est vra iscmbbble qu'il y est combine avec un alkali, et qu'ainsi c'cst du sel de glauber ou
de sulfate de soude que ces eaux conticnnent. Ensin la dissolution d'argent dans I'acide nitreux, la
trouble sur Ic champ, et aprcs une demi heurc dc repos, la liqueur sc scpurc en deux parties; celle
de dessus, qui forme les |( du vcrre, est grisu et opaque, tundis que celle du fond paroit d'un rouge
transparent. II suit de la que ces eaux contiennent du soufrc, mais plutot sous la furme dc vapcur,
que dissous pur une terrc, puisquu I'acidc nitreux libre n'y occasionnc ni precipite ni changemeat de
coulcur.
** En la favourant avec attention, j'y reconnus un gout Icgcrement sulfurcux, ct mon domestique, qui
n'etoit i>oint prevenu, Ic reconnul egalcment. 11 est done vraisemblable. que cette cau, vraimcnt ther*
male, doit, comme les autres, sa chalcur a quelqu'amas dc pyrites qui sc rechauirent en se decompo-
sant lentcment dans le scm des montagnes. Les tremblements de terre, si frequents dana le canton
d'Uri,sor les fronticrcsduqUi:! ces sources sont situccs, rendent plus probable encore I'existence de cc
fcyer Saussurc, Voyages dans les Alpes, torn. iil. p. 483, 484.
AND IN Till COUNTRY Of THE CIIIIUN3.
755
isbiiCM u iiirt'um tliut liillH into the Hhoric. A liitlc rurtlicr \vc pusHcd Hcvtml small rilU
and durk lukctt which supply the Anr; in Icsitihun an hour ontcrcd the roud wl.ich Icudti
to the VulliuH, und rciichrd the place of our dcHtiiiutiou, the same hovel on the Grim*
kcl, where 1 puii!ic-d the night on my former cjciK-dition. We arrived there uhout eif^ht
in the evening, after a journey which emplo}*!^ uh more thuu twelve hours. I wun much
struck with the view of the lake near the Inn : it is of u dark appearance, and its nnmr
iii as melancholy as its aspect : it is called the " Lake of the Dead," because the de;'.d
bodies of thustc who perish iu trovcrsini^ these unhospituble regions, are u:»ually thrown
into it.*
No situation can exceed the solitary horror of the scenery on the top of the Orimsel.
Its appearance resembled the inside of a mine, and seemed as if the IjowcIs of die earth
had been violently rent asunder ; reminding me of that sublime desc.iption in the /Kneis,
when the inside of Cacus's cave is instantaneously laid open by the arm of MerculcH.
At Hpecui, ct Cad dotecta apparuit Ingen*
Hcgiu, ct untlti'uks prnitiiit pHtncrr ruvornaC.
Non tc'cus ac mI qtiH pciiitui vi tcrru ilchUrflnH
Iiifcrnus rcicrct hccIch, ct rc^nu rccliidut
Fiillidtt, l)Us invidu ; sumck) ; immune burathniri)
, • I, Cvruatur, trepiUcntquc uiuniMo iumiiio munvt.t
■/r , >'.'
On entering tile hovel I immediately recognized the same landlord, who was stationed
here in 1776, to whom, ut that time, I never exiiectcd to owe a second reception in so
forlorn a spot. While supper was preparing, a peasant and our guide, forgetful of his
great fatigue, suddenly started up at the sound of their favourite air, the Renz des
vaches, played upon a rebec by a shepherd, and danced several allemandes, perfectly in
time, and not without grace ; a picturesque group of spectators looking on and applaud*
ing.
August 30,
This morning wc made a short excursion to the source of the Aar, which takes its rise
in neighbouring glaciers. In less than half an hour wc entered a small plain, skirted
by hign mountains, and entirely closed by a rugged chain of Alps, over which tower the
Finster-Aar and Lauter.Aar-horns, and at whose feet stretches a glacier so entirely co.
vercd with earth and stones, as to bear, at a small distance, the appearance of a sand-hill.
From this glacier issues a " torrent roaring loud'* of troubled waters, which is the source
of the Lower Aar, and joins, in a few hundred paces, another stream called the Upper
Aar, that falls from the Zinkebcrg ; the union of these torrents forms the Aar, which
rushes with great impetuosity over enormous fragments of rock. At present it runs in a
narrow channel ; but at the first melting of the snow in spring, overflows the whole space
between the mountains, and becomes a temporary lake.
* SauBBurc, vol. iv
t Drydcn's Virgil,
p. 462. .
Book viii.
The court of Cacus stands rcveal'd to sight ;
Tlie cavern glares witli new -admitted light,
So pent, the vapours with a rumbling sound
Heave from below, and rend the hollotr ground.
A sounding flaw succeeds ; and from on high
The gods with hate behold f.he nether-sky ;
The ghosts repine at violated night,
And curse the invading suiij and sickcpat the sight.
5 D 2
•5t
-•'' .v
r56
COXE's TRWELS in SWITZERLAND,
Our euidc is u chasseur, who frequently ranges over this vast chain of Alps in pursuU
of the chamois, an animal remarkable for its activity in scouring the craggy rocks, and
leaping over the precipices. He informed me that this glacier is the extremity of a val-
ley of ice about tuelve miles in length, and from one to four in breadth : it then divides
into two branches ; one extends towards the Schreckhorn, and the other towards the
Vallais. He expatiated with great enthusiasm on the profession of a chasseur, though
extreracly laborious, and at times dangerous. He usually kills from fifteen to sixteen
chamois in a year : with the flesh, which is very delicate, he helps to support his family,
and disposes of each skin for a guinea. He uses a rifle-baiTellcd gun, and generally
shoots them at the distance of three or four hundred yards.
The chamois are very timorous, and consequently watchful animals. They usually
go out in herds of twenty or thirty ; while they are feeding, one of them posted on an
adjacent height stands centinel, and is relieved at short intervals by another. The centinel
looks around with great solicitude, and on the least suspicion of danger alarms the herd
by a shrill cry ; instantly the whole troop decamp, one following the other.
The chamois feed on various kinds of herbage, and particularly on the Lichen Ran-
giferinus, or rein-deer lichen, which is found in such great quantities, as in ihany parts
to cover the summits and sides of the mountains. In order to procure their favourite
food in winter, they, like the rein-deer, clear away the snow with their fore-feet, fre-
quently thawing it with their breath, for the purpose of loosening it more easily. But
when, either from the depth or hardness of the snow, they cannot penetrate to the lichens,
they browse on the saplings of pine and fir. In summer their bodies are of a yellowish
brown, and whitish under the throat ; the hair is short and smooth ; in winter their coat
lengthens and grows dark, so as to resemble that of a bear. Sometimes, but very rarely,
thev have been found speckled, or of variegated colours, and lately a chamois entirely
white was shot upon the Engslberg. It was in all other respects similar to a co.nmon
chair.cjs, and it is uncertain whether it owed its colour to age or accident.
Linnseivs has classed the chamois in the goat genus, under the name of rupicapra, or
mountain-goat ; his acquaintance with the antelopes having been too slender to enable
him to form a genus of antelopes, which Pallas first constructed, and where he has judi-
ciously placed this animal. The example of Pallas has been followed by Pennant and
tjucceeding zoologists. lam, &c.
LETTER XXX.
Valley of the Aar..*.Land of HasH...>Meynngen.
August 1776.
I FOUND the cold upon the Grimsel more piercing than upon the St. Gothard, and
last night it even deprived me of sleep. But then circumstances were very different in
the two lodgings ; for on the St. Gothard I had a comfortable bed, whereas last night I lay
in the hay-loft, without any covering : I declare, my blood has scarcely recovered its cir-
culation. Take notice, this is the twelfth of August.
Having quitted our wretched abode on the Grimsel, vte passed along the valley of the
Aar, through a chain of wild, rugged, and uninhabitable Alps.
The i'opd along this valley, though much narrower than that from Altdorf to the St.
Gothard, is formed in the same manner along the steep acclivities and declivities, some-
times laid on arches, and sometimes carried over bridges thrown across tremendous
precipices. It is paved with flat pieces of granite, so smooth and slippery, that the horses
AND IN IKE COl/KTRV OF THE CRISONS.
757
Ips in pursuU
y rocks, and
nity of a val.
then divides
towards the
seur, though
;n to sixteen
rt his family,
nd generally
rhey usually
)osted on an
The centinel
irms the herd
Lichen Ran-
» many parts
leir favourite
bre-fect, fre-
easily. But
3 the lichens,
f a yellowish
er their coat
t very rarely,
lois entirely
> a co.nmon
iipicapra, or
er to enable
he has judi-
Pennant and
ugust 1776.
othard, and
different in
t night I lay
ereditscir-
alley of the
r to the St.
ities, some-
remendous
t the horses
would have perp-_.jally stumbled, had they not been rough-shod. In some places this
road ran along the bare and rugged ridges ; in others, down steps, either cut in the rock,
or formed by large stones, so that for several paces it resembled a stair-case. The
whole surface of the valley was thickly strewed with vast fragments of rock ; while those
which still hung on the sides of the mountains seemed threatening to overwhelm us ;
the river, during the whole way, thundering along in a continual fall. This valley ex-
hibits the samr kind of scenes to which we have been long accustomed ; except that the
Aar rushes with more impetuous r.ge even than the Rhone or the Reu -s, and is fre-
quently so swelled with torrents as to ravage all the adjacent country : we saw many
traces of these terrible devastations. We crossed it in several places, over stone bridges
of a single arch, one of which equalled, in the length of its span and dreariness of the
landscape, the Devil's Bridge in the valley of Schoellenen. About three leagues from
Spital we had a glimpse, through the trees, of the Aar falling from a considc'ible height.
In order to gain a nearer view, we climbed along the sides of a steep re .., 'ell covered
with moss : I leaned against a tree that impended over the precipice, and saw the river
rushing from the rock, and spreading into a kind of semicircular expansion in its de-
scent. It fell with fury into a deep and narrow gulf, and then lost itself in the midst of
the forest. The body of water was very considerable, and its perpendicular fall at least
one hundred and fifty feet. The scenery was also solemnly majestic ; the gray rocks on
each side rising perpendicularly, and totally bare, except their tops, which were fringed
with pines.
This picturesque scene appeared to realize a favourite image of classic antiquity : as I
viewed the Aar pouring its flood of waters from a crevice of the rock, I figured to myself
the Nile or the Tyber bursting at once from the urn of a River God.
In our way to Meyringen, we traversed large forests of beech and pines, the Aar roar-
ing along the valley, and the road, which was usually craggy and rugged, incessantly
ascending and descending. Vve now passed through several small villages, which af-
forded a pleasing sight, after che desolate country we had lately quitted, and entered a
beautiful little valley of a most lively verdure, and delightfully planted. All was calm-
ness and repose ; neither rapid river nor roaring torrent to interrupt the unusual stillness
and tranquillity of the scene. This short interval of silence rendered us more sensibly
affected with the turbulence of the Aar, and the loud clamour of the cataracts.
From this silent and sequestered spot, we descended to a larger valley on the banks
of the Aar. Perhaps no other part of Switzerland would yield more delight and occupa-
tion to the landscape-painter than this picturf.isque valley, from the agreeable and ever-
changing colour of the rocks which bound it, their summits finely broken into irregular
and fantastic forms, and from the variety and size of the fragments dispersed near the
banks of the river. Each fragment, each cottage, each shed, each shrub, is a picture ;
the effect being considerably heightened by the transparency of the air, and the grandeur
of the back -ground.
I have now visited the sources of three great rivers in Switzerland, and traced their
impetuous progress through a tract of country, in which nature has exhibited the grand-
est and most august of her works. But it is impossible adequately to describe these ma-
jestic and astonishing scenes ! In description they must all appear nearly the same ; yet,
m fact, every river, cataract, rock, mountain, precipice, are respectively distinguished
by an infinite diversity of modifications, and by aO die possible forms of beauty, magni.
ficence, sublimity, or horror. But these discrimifikting variations, though too visibly
marked to escape even the least observing eye, elude representation and defy the
strongest powers of tlie pen and pencil. In a word, you mpst not judge cf this romantic
.1
■'
i
f
1
r5b
COXE's travels in SWITZERLAND,
country Iroin the i'aint sketches I have attempted to delineate ; tliey can no more convey
an idea of these wonderful scenes, than if I were to aim at describing the pictures ol
Claude and Salvator, by informing you that they are composed of paint and canvass.
Meyringen, a large and neat village, is the capitiil burgh of Hasliland, a district in the
canton of Bern, which enjoys considerable privileges. The people are governed by
their own magistrates, and only take oaths of fidelity to the sovereign council. All the
authority, which the bailifls in the other parts of this canton enjoy, is possessed in a
great measure by the Landamman, who resides at Meyringen. He is always a native
of Hasliland, and is appointed by the sovereign council of Bern, at the recommendation
of the bailiff of Intcrlaken. Most of the other magistrates are elected by the people, who
assemble as occasion requires, and are convoked by the Landamman.
The inhabitants are a fine race of people : the men in general remarkably strong and
well made ; the women tall and handsome. The women have an elegant manner oi
wearing their hair, which is commonly of a beautiful brown : it is parted on the top of
the forehead, from thence brought round and joined to the locks behind, which either
hang down their back in long tresses, are braided with ribband, or woven round ^ho
head in a simple plait.
Meyringen is situated near the Aar, in a romantic vale, surrounded by ineado-v w? .
most luxuriant verdure, and sprinkled with cottages, which are occasionally sepatalei
by huge intervening stones and deep channels, the vestiges of storms and floods. Close
to the village, the torrent Alp-bach falls from Mount Housli, in two perpendicular cas-
cades, but with so much violence, and in so large a body of water, as to cause frequent
inundations : indeed the burgh itself has been in danger of destruction by its repeated
ravages ; against which, however, it is now protected by a wall of considerable height
and solidity. Near this torrent another fall of water, the Dorf-bach, glides gently down
the bare rock ; further on, the Millebach glistened as it descended, through a hanging
grove of pines, that feather the sides of the mountain.
As I stood on a platform of rock, about fifty feet above the bottom of th-?: Alp-bach, I
looked over the delightful vale of Hasli, observed Mount Sheidec rising from the banks
of the Aar, and sinkmg in one part, as if on purpose to discover three tremendous peaks
towering in regular gradation : the one a naked conical rock ; the second tapering and
sprinkled with snow ; and the third, which is the highest point of the Wetterhom, of a
pyramidal form, mantled with glistening ice. , ,,
The following is the ordinary price of provisions throughout the mountainous parts of
Switzerland.
Butcher's meat, per pound ...
Bread — do. -
Butter — do. -
Cheese — do. ....
Salt — do. - - . .
Milk, per quart ....
Worst wine, per do. ....
Pays de Vaud wine ....
* The reader will recollect that tiiis li^t was taken in 1776, since which time the price of proTi-
sions IS considerably augmented.
s.
d.
0
2^
0
1;
0
2i
0
^k
0
l|
0
l-
0
H
0
6*
AND l.V THE COUNTRV OK THE ORISONS.
759
ore convey
pictures of
:unvass.
strict in the
overned by
■1. All the
tsessed in a
lys a native
imendation
)eople, who
strong and
manner oi"
the top of
lich either
round ^ho
;a(lo ,v rry
y scpiiiatea
ods. Close
iicular cas-
se frequent
ts repeated
able height
ently down
a hanging
Vip.bach, I
\ the banks
ious peaks
pering and
rhom, of a
LIS parts of
e of proTi-
By this list you will perctive, that bread is much dearer in proportion than the other
articles, and the reason is obvious; for these mountainous parts abound in pasture, but
{)roduce little corn. The peasants, inhabiting the mountainous districts of Swiizerland,
ive chiefly upon milk and potatoes. I had to-day a long conversaiion with one of our
guides ; he lives upon the mountains of Uri ; and, as the winter lasts near eight months,
each family lays in sufticicnt provision for the whole time. His own family consists of
seven persons, and is provided with the following stores : seven cheeses, each weighing
twenty-five pounds ; a hundred and eight pounds of hard bread ; twenty-five baskets of
potatoes, each weighing about forty pounds ; seven goats, and three cows, one of which
IS killed. The cows and horses arc fed with hay, and the goats with the boughs of fir,
which, in a scarcity of fodder, are given also to the other cattle. During this dreary
season, the family are employed in making linen and cloth : for this purpose a small
part of the ground belonging to each cottage is generally sown with flax, which has
lately been much cultivated, and with increasing success, in the mountainous districts.
The houses, like those of Appenzel and Glarus, are generally of wood ; and it was
a natural observation uf one of our servants, in passing through a continued chain of
rocks, that as there was no deficiency of stone, it seemed extraordinary to employ woc^
alone for the purposes of building. But it may be remarked, that these wooden houses
are sooner constructed, and easily repaired ; and being formed in a compact manner,
with small rooms, and low ceilings, arc suflicicntly warm even for so cold a climate.
The chief objection arises from the danger of fire ; which, however, is in some measure
obviated by the method of building their cottages detached from each other. But this
observation does not hold with respect to some of their largest burghs, which are exposed
to the ravages of this dreadful calamity. I am, &c.
LETTER XXXI.
Fall of the Reichenbach..,.Passage of the Sheidec.„.VaUcy and Glaciers of Grindelxvald.
Grindelwald, August 13.
WE left Meyringen this morning, crossed the Aar, and ascended the Sheidec through
a beautiful forest of beech, poplars, mountain-ash, and pines. About two miles from
Meyringen we dismounted at a small village, and passed along some fields, in order to
view the fall of the Reichenbach, which is deservedly celebrated for its variety and
beauty : it has its source at the foot of the Wetterhorn, and rolls in numerous cataracts
down the steep sides of Mount Sheidec, until it joins the Aai uear Meyringen.
The fall may be divided into three principal parts.
The first, which alone is usually visited by travellers, precipitates itself from an over-
hanging rock, is reduced into spray and foam, and in that state falls in a perpendicular
column, from an elevation of at least two hundred feet, into a natural basin, and is
soon lost in the abyss beneath. The rock itself i^ concave, arched, totally bare, except-
ing its summit, which is feathered with shrubs, and being of black marble, forms a
F/iriking contrast with the pure whiteness ot the descending foam. Part of the spray
rebuunds on the rock, and glides gently into the basin in many a silvery current.
The second cataiact begiiis from the overflowing of the basin, and is most advanta-
geously seen from a large tree hanging on the side of the precipice ; the torrent forms a
second perpendicular column, v hich is half obscured as it dashes through a chasm of
projecting rocks. The best point of view for seeing the third cataract is in a meadow
at the bottom of the second, x'^om that situation the whole Reichenbach seems one
I
700
COXK's travels in SWIiZEBI.AND,
immense water- full ; the bottunri of the first, <ind the top of the second cataract, being
concealed by the intervening hills. From thence it rolls nearly in a horizontal direc«
tion ; is divided into two streams by a rocky island beautifully sprinkled with trees, and
impetuously descends in two unequal bodies. L, then dashes over broken crags of black
marble, through groves of beech, mountain-ash, and pines, and rich grounds interspersed
with hamlets.
On viewing the various parts of this stupendous fall, I wad as much interested ar d af-
fected as AristsBus is represv^nted by Virgil, when his mother Cyrenc points out o him
he sources of the principal riv trs bursting at once from the earth.
Jumque domum mirans gcnitriciset humida regnai
Spcluncisque lacus clauses, lucosque sonontvs,
Ibat, et ingenti niotu stupcfactus aquarutn.
Omnia sub magna lubcntia flumina terra
Spectubut divcrsa locis, Phasimquc, Lycumquc,
£t caput trdc altus primum sc crumpit Enipeua,
Unde pat: '' • "'nus, ct undc Anicna flu^nta,
Saxosumqvi. b Hypanis, Mysusque Caicua,
J. Et geminaaui'ii. . taurino comua vultu
Eridanus, quo non alius per pinguia culta
In mare purpureum viulentior influit amnis.*
From hence ascending by the side of the Reichenbach, we crossed that torrent over a
bridge, and having traversed several plains, or rather undulating vallies, beautifully
sprinkled with ash, poplar, and other large trees, continued our route at the foot of some
enormous mountains, which are called by the general name of Wetterhom,t or Stormy
Peak. This enormous group, which forms the Wetterhom, is peculiarly striking, from
the naked majesty and grandeur of its rugged peaks, and from its insulated situation,
and because, in passing from Mcyringen to Grindelwald, it presents itself the first of this
stupendous chain. |
* With wond'ring eyes he views the secret store
Of lakes, that pent in hollow caverns roar ;
He hears the crackling sound of coral woods,
And sees the secret source of subterraneous floods ;
And where, distinguished in their sev'ral cells,
The fount of Phasis and of Lycus dwells ;
Where swift Enipcus in his bed appears,
And Tiber his majestic forehead rears ;
Where Anio flows, and Hypanis profound
Breaks thro' th' opposing rocks with raging sound ;
Where Po first issues from his dark abodes.
And, awful in his cradle, rules the floods.
Drydcn's Virgil, Georg. book iv»
t The sevecal peaks of this mountain have different appellations, and are not ascertained without much
difficulty, the peasants usually mistaking and confounduig them: One is called the Wetter-horn, ano-
ther the Nager-hom, a third the Engcl-horn, and the highest point takes the denomination of Jung-
frau-hom, or Virgin-horn, for the same reason as the mountain of that name in the valley of Lauter-
bruennen, because its summit is inaccessible. Hence several travellers have mistaken tliis peak for
the real Jun^fi^u-hom. I have mentioned these circumstances, in order to prevent the confusion of
names puzzUn^ future travellers as they once puzzled me. The word horn in German, which bears the
same significaUon as in the English tongue, is applied to the highest peaks, as in French aiguille, or
needle.
I To those who go from Grindelwald to Meyringen, the Wettcr-hom is the last of this chain. Hence
the traveller will not perhaps be so much affected with its majesty and grandeur, as if he first observed it
in ascending from Meyringen. I mention this circumstance, because all descriptions are comparative
AND IN THE COUNinv OV IHE GRISONS.
761
ract, being
>ntal direc«
trees, and
gs of black
nterspcrsed
sted ar d af-
out .0 him
rent over a
XautifuUy
ot of some
or Stormy
king, from
k situation,
nrst of this
book iv>»
thoutmuch
'•horn, ano«
•n of Jung-
of Lauter-
is peak for
onfusion of
h bears the
ttiguille, or
in. Hence
>bserved it
imparative
Having ascended about tlirce hours from the time of our quitting Mcyringcn, nc re-
tVeshcd ourselves and our horses in a delightful vale strewed with hamlets ; a sloping
hill, adorned with variegated verdure and wood, on one side; on the other, the Rosen,
lavi and Schwartz-wald glaciers stretching between impending rocks ; and before us
the highest point of the Wetterhorn lifting its pyramidal top capped with eternal snow.
As we were taking our repast, we were suddenly started by a noise, like the sound ot
thunder, occasio. ,'d by a large body of snow falling from the top of the mountain,
which, in its precipitate descent, had the appearance of a torrent of water reduced almost
into spray. These avalanches (as they arc called) are sometimes attended with the most
fatal consequences ; for when they consist of enormous masses, they destroy every thing
in their course, and not unfrcquently overwhelm even a whole village. The best pre-
servative against their effects being the forests, widi which the Alps abound, there is
scarcely a village, if situated at the foot of a mountain, that is not sheltered by trees,,
which the inhabitants preserve with uncommon reverence. Thus, what constitutes one
of the principal beauties in the country, affords also security to the people.
We continued our course at the foot of the Wetterhorn, which in this part is so ex.
tremely perpendicular and tapering as to appear like half of an immense pyramid. Here
we conceived it impossible that any scenes could be more rude and majestic than those
before us ; but on reaching the top of the Scheidec, we burst upon a view so far exceed-
ing them in wildness and horror, that we unanimously exclaimed, " There is the
Schreckhom, or Peak of Terror." The descent from hence to Grindelwald is gentle but
tedious. That village, consisting of numerous cottages, dispersed over the plain and
upon the rising hilh, exhibits an agreeable and picturesque scene, heightened at the
same time by a view of the vallies of ice, which stretch along the steep sides of the moun.
tains in a regular curve, and are beautifully skirted with wood.
The two vallies of ice, which extend into the plain of Grindelwald, are called the
Superior and Inferior Glaciers. The former lies between the Wetterhorn and the
Mettenberg : the latter between the Mettenberg and the Eger-horn. The Mettenberg
is the base of the Schreckhorn ; and the Eger-horn, or Pointed Peak, bordeis on the
valley of Grindelwald, and slopes gradually from barren rocKS and snow to ferdlity and
cultivation.*
August the 14th.
DARE I confess to you that I am somewhat disappointed, and that a nearer view of
the glacier has not sufficiently compensated for the fatigue and trouble of the expedition ?
But I have promised to write from my own feelings, and not to send an account taken
from exagp;erated descriptions.
We sallied forth this morning full of impatience, and arrived at the bottom of the
Inferior Glacier, forming a majestic arch of ice, from which issued a loud torrent of
snow-water. This glacier is composed of numerous pyramids, which are more elevated
towards the plain ; being from about forty to fifty feet high, and gradually shortening,
until they terminate in a broad surface broken into deep an d wide chasms. We mounted
a very difficult path at the edge of the frozen region, occasionally passing over the steep
and craggy parts of the rock almost perpendicular, along the very sides of the precipice,
the danger of which makes me shudder even now. This glacier is several miles in
length, and is supposed by many travellers to join the glacier of the Aar, which I vi-
* Por a further account of this chain of Alps, which are contiguous to the vallies of Grindelwald
Hnd Lauterbruennen, sec Letter on the chain of Alps observed from Bern.
VOL. V. ^ 5 E
[1
I
i62
COXE's travels in SWITZERLAND,
sited in my cxptdilioii to the top of the Grimscl. But the reverend Mr. Wyttenbach
of Bern, who has frequently cxamiiK'd its direction from the adjacent heights, assured
me that those two glaciers are separated from each other by a chain of mountains.
After employing above two hours in ascending, we were prevented from continuing
our pro»Trcss by rugged rocks, and a rising hill of ice ; our guide assuring us at the same
time that it was impossible to proceed. Of this we were by no means convinced ; but
not having any conductor who could lead the way, and not daring to explore these un-
known regions alone, we descended with heavy hearts, much disappointed that what
we had seen, though certainly a very curious and sublime sight, did not equal our ex-
pectations : it added to our chagrin, on being afterwards informed, that though we could
scarcely have proceeded further in the direction which we took, yet that if we had fol-
lowed another path we might have penetrated to the Superior Glacier, and reached the
base of the Scnrcckhorn. In that part between the mountains, now occupied by the
Inferior Glacier, there was formerly a road which communicated with the Vallais, but at
present impassable ; and a spot was pointed out to us, now covered with ice, where once
stood a small chapel.
Not far from this glacier of Grindelwald, pines, willows, ash, and oaks, grow and
come to perfection ; and near the borders of the ice I gathered strawberries and wild
cherries, and observed hazel nuts, barberries, and mulberry.trecs. The valley of Grin-
delwald is extremely fertile ; it produces barley, rye, hay, hemp, and fruit-trees in great
abundance, and feeds above two thousand large cattle. I am, &c.
LETTER XXXII.
Valley and Glaciers of Lauterbruennen..,.Fall of the Staubbach.
A TOLERABLE road leads from Grindelwald to this place, and we met a cart,
which to us is become a remarkable* object, not having seen any thing moving upon
wheels since we quitted Lucern. The country is pleasingly diversified with hanging
woods, immense rocks, deep precipices, and violent torrents. But I suppose you are
by this time as much accustomed to rocks, precipices, and torrents, as the readers of
Fingal to blue mists and hollow winds. ^
The valley of Lauterbruennen is embosomed in the midst of the Alps. The western
boundary, from which the Stubbach .'"•>>'$, would, in any other country, be called an
enormous mountain : it here appears only u ^rifling hill in comparison with the opposite
chain, of which the highest point is the beautiful Jungfrau-hom, that stretches in a
semicircular direction, and, towering above the adjacent peaks, rises to a stupendous
height.
We are now lodged at tne house of the clergyman of Lauterbruennen ; a little vil-
lage, or rather collection of cottages, sprinkled, like those of Grindelwald, about the
valley and accessible parts of the hills. Near the house is the celebrated fall of the
Staubbach, from which I am just returned. This torrent roils perpendicularly from so
considerable a height, and resolves itself into fine spray ; the greater part falls clear of
the overhanging mountain during its whole descent ; but the remainder dashes about
* A nearer and more interesting, but more difficult passage, conducts over the Sheidec from
GrindelwuliUo Lauterbruennen. In my second tour, I proposed traversing this passage and had actu-
ally setoff for that purpose ; but a violent shower obliging me to change my resolution, I continued
my journey along the same road as before.
It may be proper to apprise the traveller, that there are two Sheidecs, the one separating the vallics
of Grindelwald and Meyringen, the other those of Grindelwald Lauterbruennen.
yttenbach
s, assured
ains.
ontinuing
t the same
iced ; but
these un-
that what
lalourex-
we could
c had fol-
;ached the
ed by the
lis, but at
here once
grow and
and wild
y of Grin-
es in great
let n cart,
'ing upon
i hanging
5e you are
readers of
le western
called an
e opposite
:ches in a
:upendous
I little vil.
about the
fall of the
ly from so
Is clear of
lies about
eidcc from
id had actu>
[ continued
; the vallics
AND IN THE COUNTRY OT THE CniSONiJ. 763
half way against a projection of the rock, and flics off with great violcnoc. The clergy.
man measured a short time ago its pcrpciulicular hciglit, and found it nine hundred and
thirty feet. The sun shining in an opposite direction, a mui:..turc rainbow was reflected
towards the bottom of the fall ; while I stood at some distance, it assumed a semicircular
figure ; as I approached, the extremities gradually coincided, and formed a complete
circle of the most brilliant colours. In order to have a still finer view, I ventured nearer
and nearer, the circle at the same time becoming smaller and smaller ; and as I stood
quite under the fall, it suddenly disappeared. VVhen I looked up to the torrent, it re-
sembled a cloud of dust, and from this circumstance it takes its name : Staubbach signi-
fying, in the German language, a spring of dust. I paid for my curiosity, by being
extremely wet; but then I had the satisfaction, at the same time, of seeing a minbow
in miniature : no imcommon phenomenon, however, as it may be observed in any cas-
cade upon which the rays of the sun fall in a certain direction. In the present instance,
however, it was some consolation to me that the object happened to be peculiarly strik-
ing.
The next morning we rode to the extremity of the vale, in which there are some
noble points of view, and ascended to the glaciers, stretching from the feet of the Breit-
horn and Gross-horn. In this delightful valley many streams* of the clearest water
gush from the earth like small rivers, and numberless torrents precipitate themselves
from the mountains. I noticed two in particular, which fall from a greater height than
even the Staubbach ; but as their descent is not so direct, they are less extraordinary.
After mounting above three hours we reached a small hut, which in summer is inha-
bited by herdsmen, who make excellent cheese, and tend numerous herds of cows, goats,
and swine. Here we feasted upon cold chamois, which our host had provided for us,
and concluded our repast with a desert of delicious cream. From thence we ascended
still further, with considerable difficulty arrived at the borders of the glaciers, and were
entirely surrounded by rugged and almost impassable rocks. We wished to proceed ;
but our host assuring us that we had only time to return before night, we sat down close
to the ice, and contemplated with rapture and astonishment part of the great central
chain of the Alps ; rocks towering above rocks, and mountains rising above mountains,
not more distinguished for their stupendous height, than for the endless variety and rude-
ness of their forms. One of the peaks, which is called the Gross-horn, is of a pyra-
midal shape, and capped with frozen snow ; another, the Breithorn, is conical, and
seems crowned with an enormous mass of transparent ice, from which the reflection of
the sun beams was inexpressibly beautiful. But the most elevated and most majestic of
the whole group is the Jung-frau-horn, or Virgin's horn, which receives the name ol
virgin, because its summit is inaccessible.
The hollows between the mountains are filled with large vallies of ice, broken into a
great variety of shapes ; and several torrents bursting from the snow, and uniting in
their course, from the Weiss-Lutchine, a river which rolls rapidly through the valley
of Lauterbruennen, joins the Schwartz-Lutchine, which flows from Grindelwald, and
swells the Aar. Many of the mountains are covered to a great height with verdure,
on which the eye reposes with delight amid the horrors of such wintry scenes. We ob-
served also, at considerable elevations, small villages, the access to which must be almost
as difficult as to the glaciers to which we ascended.
• From which circumstance it receives its name, Lauterbruennen, in German, signifying many springs.
5 E 2
7G4
COXE's IHAVELa IN SWIT2E H f- A K n,
^uiihstanding the miij^nilici'iicc and variety of this scenery, and the uncommon
\omonon ol' ice and snow in the midst of summer, bordering on forests and cultivu-
i; I nui^t again repeat, that the ideas which we had previously conceived from ex-
;iggeralcd accounts concerning the boundless extent and magnificent appearance of the
glaciers, were not sufliciendy answered. It is remarkable, that every object in Switzcr
land has more than gratified our expectations except the glaciers, which must be con
sidered as forming one of the most u^tcresting phenomena in the whole country. 'I'hi;,
disappointment seems to have been occasioned by the turgid descriptions whicli we had
heard and read of the glaciers of Grindchvald and Lauterbruenncn : and wc were led to
suppose, that the glacier of the Furca was much inferior in magnitude to those of Orindel-
\\ aid and Lauterbruennen ; w hercas, in fact, it was in all respects equal, if not superior. •
Septembir 1, 1785
In 1785 I was considerably more delighted and astonished with the vallies of (Irin
dclwaki and Lauterbruennen than in 1776 ; because my imagination was not in this, as
in the former instance, exalted by exaggerated descriptions, and led to expect more
than could be reached even by nature herself, however prodigal in these her sublimest
works. But the vallies of ice still appear inconsiderable objects when viewed at some
distance, and compared with the surrounding mountains, whose summits and sides arc
clothed with vast tracts of ice and snow. On a nearer approach they become more in-
tcresling, particularly when broken into abrupt ridges and immense chasms; and when
their aggregate mass and numerous branches arc observed from the surrounding heights.
Still, however, the traveller may be disappointed, whose imagination has been previously
ruled with turgid descriptions, or who applies to the vallies of ice that sublimity and
magnificence, which are principally due to the Alps above and around them.
LETTER XXXIII.
Ijukes ofT/iun and Bnentz.„.Passage of Mount Gemni...,Baths of Leuk.
THE nearest route from Lauterbruennen to the ?3aths of Leuk leads across the
mountains to Kandcrsteig. It is called le chemin vert, or the green wav, because the
rocks are for the most part covered with herbage. It is only practicable to foot-
passengers ; and I was informed by a Swiss gentleman who passed it, that though steep
and difficult, it is not dangerous. Its distance may be three leagues, and to a person
not wholly accustomed to alpine passages, would require about five or six hours. A
chasseur would perform it in less than half the time. In my second expedition in 1785 I
had proposed crossing this way, but was obliged to decline it, as I could not procure a
guide \\\\o was acquainted with the road.
I pursued therefore the usual route, which runs from the entrance of the valley of
Lauterbruennen, through a fertile plain, between the lakes of Thun and Brientz.
About two leagues from Lauterbruennen I came to the Aar, near its exit from the lake
of Brientz, and followed its course until it entered that of Thun. This lake is about
four leagues long and one broad ; and, if we may judge from the steepness of the
mountains with which it is bounded, must be very deep ; the borders are richly varic-
•We perhaps were less struck with the glaciers of Grindclwald and Lauterbruennen, because we
had previously viewed similar scenes in our passage tli rough the most sublime regions of Switzerland ;
whereas these are the first grand objects in the route usvudly takei» bv travellers through licrne, and
ronsc(iucntly muke a greater impression.
l-«
ncommon
id cultiva-
, from cx-
ncc of the
II Switzcr
St be con
;ry. This
ch wv had
kcrc led to
jfGrindcl-
supcrior.^
r 1, 1785
.'s of Grill
ill this, us
:pcct more
sublimcst
id at somt
d sides art
ic more in-
and when
ng heights.
previously
ilimitv and
Leuk:
across the
because the
)le to foot-
lough steep
to a pcraoii
hours. A
m in 1785 I
t procure a
le valley of
d Brientz.
)m the lake
ke is about
ness of the
ichly varie-
I, bccuuse we
Switzerland ;
;li Berne, and
■w
AUG 13 1890
I
'V*
4 ; ~ . t
) U k» A •
•t**
!k.
■41«IMl-i^
M
^1
r«^/
• iifk jjjodA'
«M> met \(<i ir»3«*t**n«
^..^-Ul
f'
AND IN nil COl'NrA\ Ol HiL (JltiaONIi.
r65
'I
n
A
■ ■i
•1
.,.^
tinted, and prcscnl Hcvcral fine points of view, pfrtally Ik i^^litrntd l)y inftny fiigtfttl rocks
riniiig boldly Iroin the niarf^iii ol'tlu- water. W'c coasietl iliis l.iici-, tliruiidi a (klighti'iil
country, to tiic Mnall village oi' Lcihingen ; then ascended tu .ilHchi, ana looked down
UIM)n the lakes of Thun and Urientz. In all the nia|)!t of Switzerland w hieh have ruilcti
under my observation, these two lakes arc represented as they extended nlniost in u
straight line ; whereas the} arc situated nearly at ri^ht angles to each other. You may
judge of their true position by the uimcxed cngruvuig, communicated by die Ucv. Mr.
Wyttenbach of Bern.
Having descended from ilLschi, wc soon entered iho rich valley of Frutigen, parallel
to ihut of Lauterhruennen, and enjoyed for a considerable way a prospect onhe glaciers
wc visited the day before. This valley ends at the small town of Frutigen j from thencc
commences that of Kander, watered by ariver of the same name, and bounded by Mount
Kander. In uU these vallics tiic rudeness and height of the mountains which almost
enclose them, contrasted with the beauty and fruitfulness of the plains, always fertilized
bv some lively torrent, form n thousand picturesque scenes, ever changing, and impossi-
ble to be described : they arc still further embellished by the nuinlxT of ruined castles
perched upon points seemingly inaccessible.
From the village of Kanderstcg, delicate travellers who do not choose to mount p
nigged ascent, eitneron foot or on horseback, are carried in an arm-chair supported by
means of po!cs upon men's shoulders. Wc proceeded however, on horseback, having
before rode up steeper and more ditfici > paths. After ascending about an hour and u
half wc arrived at the summit of the Kander, where a wooden cross marks the entrance
into the Vallais ; then traversed a waving plain of pasture, in which wc observed a feu
huts and several herds of cattle, and at length reached a single house on the Gemmi,
where we procured some refreshment : here wc saw nothing but immense rocks piled
upon one another, with no appearance of vegetation, and the weather was exceedingly
cold. Passiig over a large drift of snow, wc came to a lake called the Daubcn See,
?bout a league in circumference, supplied by a considerable torrent from a neighbouring
glacier. This lake has no visible outlet, but doubtless finds a subterraneous passage
mto the Vallais.
The chain of mountains which here separates the canton of Bern from the \'allais, is
called the Gemmi; from the point of which, over-looking and almost over-hanging the
Vallais., wc had at once a most extensive prospect over that fertile country, and the rug
ged Alps of Savoy. The mountain which we descended Is in many places almost per-
pendicular, and yet a horse-road has been hewed in the hard rock down this formidable
descent. It was begun in 1736, and finished in 1741, at the joint expence of the Vallais
and the canton of Bern : an astonishing work ! which proves that nothing is impracticaljlc
to human industry. More than a league has been blown up with gun-powder, and u
way formed which seems dangerous to those who are unused to mountainous countries,
or whose heads arc apt to turn giddy. It is about nine feet broad, and quite hangs
over the precipice ; in some parts, for a considerable space, it is a hollow way, open only
at one side, the rock above projecting over it, of the same breadth. The effect is pecu-
liarly singular : for, as the road winds continually, the scene also continually changes ;
so that one moment we commanded an extensive view, and the next were enclosed with
barren rock.
The descent from the top to the plain is about two leagues ; when you arrive at the
bottom, and look up, you cannot observe the smallest traces of a road : so that a stranger
would hardly believe it possible, that a passage has been formed down the rock, until
convinced by his own experience. About thirty years ago, the troops of Bern descended
'I
\
! tj! I
m
/66
COXli S iUAVELS IN SWITZERLAND
this road for the purpose of assisting the canton of Uri against the inluibitants of tht
valley of Levi no, who had revolted ; and, ^vhat is almost incredible, they descended
with heavy artillery.
This place is famous for hot medicinal springs, and is much frequented by invalids
during this seasoi^. of the year : the patients either bathe or drink the waters. As far as
I can judge from the accounts which I have received concerning their warmth, their
analysis, the method of using them, and their efficacy in curing the gout, rheumatism,
obstructions, and cutaneous disorders, they seem nearly to rescinble those of Bath.
There an several springs of different warmth and of different qualities : according to the
most accurate experiments made by the Rev. Mr. Wyttenbach, the mercury in Fahren-
Uvnt's thermometer, \\'hen plunged into the principal source, stood at 115" ; and at 120°
in the spring which flows near the bridge over the Dala.
The accommoda' ions for the company are very inconvenif.nt ; each person having for
his own use a small apartment not more than a few feet squire, in which there is just
room for a bed, a tabic, and two chairs. The public dini.ig-room is upon a larger
scale, as is also an apartment where the company occasionally assemble. Formerly the
accommodations were tolerably good; but unfortunately, in 1719, an avalanche from a
neighbouring glacier overwhehned the greater part of the houses and the baths, and des-
troyed a considerable number of inhabitants.
The company,, consisting of persons from different quarters of Switzerland, are ex.
ceedingly affable and obliging, insomuch that several of them have invited us to their
respective houses ; and this invitation was made with that openness and unaffected frank-
ness so peculiarly characteristic of the Swiss. We dined this morning at eleven ; the
bell for supper is now ringing, and it is scarce sevc . These are primitive hours, but
we have travelling appetites ; and, provided we meet with refreshment, the hour and place
are of little consequence.
You are now probably drinking tea in your withdrawing room at Bath, from whence
you are enjoying that beautiful prospect I have so often admired. The situation of this
sf ot ::; mure romanilc than that of Bath, and the waters perhaps not less efficacious ; yet
this village contains only a few miserable houses, while Bath is one of the finest towns
in Europe. I had a converoation to-day upon this topic, with a very ingenious and
well-informed gentleman of the Vallais. I observed to him, that, considering the great
credit and efficacy of these waters, I could not forbear wondering, that the chiefs of the
republic had not considered the improvement of the accommodatioiis an object worthy
of their attention ; for if they were rendered more convenient for the reception of inva-
lids, it would undoubtedly be the means of drav/ing a great number of strangers, and
consequently must be highly beneficial to the country. He assured me, it had more
than once been in contemplation ; that some persons of great credit and authority opposed
all improvements, upon a principle similar to the policy of Lycurgus ; conceiving that
an influx of strangers would only serve to introduce luxury among the inhabitants, and
insensibly destroy that simplicity of manners, for which the Vallaisans are so remarkably
distinguished.
How flir the ignorance of the people contributes to their true felicity ; or ho\/ far sim-
plicity of manners may be corrupted by national improvement ? are questions which have
bt^en much agitated, and will never be decided so long as it shall be held just reasoning
to argue from the abuse against the use. But it v/iU readily be allowed, that superstition
is ever the companion of ignorance ; and that a people who are both ignorant and super-
stitious, must necessarily be benefitted by an intercourse with nations more improved and
enlightened than themselves. ,
AND IN THE COUNTRV Oi' llli; OniSONS.
•67
aiits of tilt
descended
iy invalids
As far as
rmth, their
leumatism,
of Bath,
ding to the
in Fahren-
nd at 120»
having for
tiere is just
a larger
)rmerly the
che from a
and des-
>d, are ex-
us to their
cted frank-
leven ; the
hours, but
rand place
>m whence
tion of this
cious; yet
nest towns
!nious and
g the great
liefs of the
:ct worthy
n of inva-
ngers, and
had more
y opposed
iving that
tants, and
jmarkably
>/ far sim-
'hich have
reasoning
perstition
nd super-
roved and
We walked to a spot not far from hence, where a communication is formed with ihe
village Albencn. Where the mountain inclines towards a slope, a footpath has been
cut ; but in those parts where the rock is perpendicular, ladders are placed, and the
peasants ascend and descend with heavy burdens upon their shoulders. Wc counted
seven of these ladders. I mention this circumstance, not as being an object so remark-
able, perhaps, a^ is represented by some travellers, but as it will convey to you an idea
of the extreme ruggedness and singularity of the countr}'. I am, &c.
LETTER XXXIV.
Republic of the Fallais. . . . Cardinal Schinner. , . . Town of Sion. , . . Martigny. ,..St. Maurice.
Sion, August 19.
SION being nearly the point where the German language terminates, and the French
begins, the natives in this part of the Vallais consequently speak both tongues.
We set out this morning at five, and came down a very steep valley to Leuk, a small
town built upon an eminence near the Rhone, which is here very rapid ; and, if wu
may judge by the breadth of the channel, often overflows its banks. We crossed at this-
place, and continued for some way through a forest of firs, till we again passed the river
to Siders ; from thence we C0v\sted its banks to Sion, the capital of the Vallais.
Another road leading from the baths of Leuk to Siders, which I traversed in 1785,
though more steep and incommodious, is far more interesting to the traveller who de-
lights in picturesque views. It is called the galleries, is cut along the sides of an abrupt
and rugged rock in a zig-zag direction, and bounded by a wooden railing, which over-
hangs a dreadful abyss, so deep and obscure, that the river Dala, which rolls impetu*
ously through it, is neither seen nor heard. The opposite chain of mountains is clothed
with dark forests, enlivened with pastures, and interspersed with occasional villages,
which are situated one above the other to a considerable height, and seem scarcely ac
cessible but to foot passengers.
This tract of country, called the Vallais, stretches from east to west about a hundred
miles, and contains 3ne hundred thousand inhabitants, who all profess the Roman Ca-
tholic religion. It is divided into Upper and Lower Vallais : the former reaches from
the Furca to the Morge, below Sion ; and the latter, from that river to St. Gingou,
situated upon the lake of Geneva.
The upper Vallais is sovereign of the Lower Vallais, and comprises seven independent
dixains, or commonwealths ; namely, Sion, Goms, Brieg, Visp, Leuk, Raren, and Si-
ders; of thise Sion is aristocratical, and the others democratical. They are called
dixajns, because the Upper Vallais being divided into seven, and the Lower into three
districts, each division is a dixain, or tenth of the whole.
The bishop of Sion was formerly absolute sovereign over the greater part of the Val-
lais ; but his authority is at present limited to a few particulars. He has the sole power '
of pardoning criminals, and signs> the warrants for execution ; the money is coined in
his name, and with the arms of the republic. In his acts he styles himself bishop of
Sion, prince of the German empire, and count and praefect of the Vallais ; in days of
high ceremony he dines in public, and is waited upon by the first noble of the Vallais,
who is hereditary treasurer. He nominates also the bailiffs or governors of the two
bailliages of Martigny and Arden, and possesses considerable influence from his patron-
age of church preferment. Upon the vacancy in the see, the canons of the chapter of Sion
768
COXL'iJ TRAVELS IN SWITZERLAND,
present from their own body four candidates, one of whom is appointed bishop by the
La-.iusrath, or general diet.
The seven dixains form, conjointly with the bishop, the republic of the Vallais, and
all affairs arc transacted in the diet, called Landsrath, which meets twice every year at
Sion. This assembly consists of nine voices ; the bishop ; the Lands-hauptmann, who
is chosen or confirmed by the diet every two years; and the seven communities. The
bishop presides, the Lands-hauptmann collects the votes, and all resolutions are decided
by the majority. Each dixain, although it has but one vote, sends as many deputies as
it pleases ; they generally consist of fo'ir ; a judge, a banneret, a captain, and a lieu-
tenant. The judge and the lieutenant are appointed every two years; the two others
hold their offices for life.
In all civil causes of a certain importance, an appeal lies from the inferior courts of
justice to the diet in the last resort. Thus, by the institution of this supreme council,
the communities in this country arc firmly united, and form in conjuqption one body
politic, or republic, for the general affairs of the nation. In other cases, each of the
commonwealths is governed by its own particular laws and customs.
Both the Upper and Lower Vallais were formerly dependent upon the bishop of
Sion ; but the inhabitants of the two districts united in order to limit his power ; and,
having succeeded, quarrelled for superiority. A bloody war ensued, which terminated
in 1475, by the total defeat of the Lower Vallaisans. Since that period, they have con-
tinned subject to the Upper \''allais, with the enjoyment, however, of some considerable
privileges.
The republic of the Vallais is an ally of the thirteen cantons, and has formed a par-
ticular league with the seven Catholic cantons, for the defence of their religion.
The bishops of Sion had formerly a considerable influence over the political affairs of
Switzerland ; and Matthew Schinner, the cardinal bishop, is famous in history for great
abilities, daring spirit of intrigue, and restless ambition. He was born at Milbach, in
the dixain of Goms ; and in 1500 was raised to this see. In consequence of his repre-
sentations and influence, the Swiss troops gave a singular instance of infidelity to their
public engagements, by breaking a subsidiary treaty which they had recently contracted
with Francis the First, soon after his first invasion of the Milanese. The Swiss historians,
however, record with triumph the patriotic conduct of two ofllcers, who, remonstrating
against this breach of faith, drew off eight thousand troops, and, returning to Switzer-
land, in some measure retrieved the honour of the nation. The remainder of the army,
instigated by the eloquence of the cardinal, engaged Francis the First near Marignano,
in one of the most furious battles fought during the bloody wars of Italy. Night alone
put a stop to the engagement, without separating the combatants ; both armies were
blended upon the field of battle ; and Francis slept upon the carriage of a.cannon at no
great distance from a battalion of the enemy. At day-brei the Swiss renewed the charge
with their usual courage, and were received with equal bravery. At length the intre-
pidity of the king, and the desperate valour of the French, rose superior to the repeated
attacks of the Swiss, who retreated to Milan, leaving Francis in possession of the field of
battle : an advantage, however, which he gained by the loss of his bravest troops.
The Cardinal, actuated by the most inveterate enmity to the French, occasioned also,
by his intrigues, the loss of the Milanese to Francis. Lautrec, in the year 1521, com-
manded a body of twelve thousand Swiss, who formed the principal strength of his
army. On the other side, the Cardinal obtained, by his influence over his countrymen,
a secret levy of the like number, to joia the enemies of France : thus, for the first time,
the Swiss were seen combating under opposite banner-, and ready to commit hostilities
:M
1 I
VND IN THL tOUNTRY Cr THE r.RlSONS.
•69
ap by the
lilais, and
ry year at
lann, who
es. The
e decided
epiities as
nd a lieu-
wo others
courts of
e council,
one body
ich of the
bishop of
ver; and,
erminated
have con-
nsiderable
icd a par-
1.
affairs of
for great
ilbach, in
his repre-
:y to their
:ontracted
liistorians,
onstrating
• Switzer.
the army,
farignano,
ight alone
nies were
non at no
:he charge
the intre-
; repeated
le field of
tps.
)ned also,
'21, com-
;th of his
intrymen,
first time,
lostilities
.(gainst each olhcx. Upon this occasion the cantons dispatched mcs.sengcrs, with pe-
remptory orders for the Swiss in both armies to return to their country. The Cardinal
bribed the messengers to conceal these orders from the Swiss in the arnn- of the confedc
rates, and to deliver them only to those who were in the French service. They obeyed
accordingly ; and this desertion weakening the army of Lautrcc, Milan and the princi-
pal towns surrendered to the confederates. Soon after this additional instance of his
intrigues and influence, tlic Cardinal ended his turbulent life in the conclave, which
assembled on the death of Leo the Tenth, for the election of a new pope.
The inhabitants of this part of the Vallais arc very much subject to goiters, or large
excrescences in the neck, which often increase to a most enormous sii:e ; but, what is
more extraordinary, idiocy no less abounds. I saw many instances of both, as I passed
through Sion ; some idiots were basking in the sun with their tongues out, and their
heads hanging down, exhibiting an affecting spectacle of intellectual imbecility. The
causes which produce a frequency of these phenomena greatly excite my curiosity ; but
I shall defer my remarks until I shall have obtained farther information.
The weather in this enclosed vale is so exceedingly sultry, that although the eveninp;
is far advanced, I am quite oppressed. This languid heat is probably one of the causes
which occasion the inconceivable indolence of the inhabitants : much, however, must
at the same time be attributed to the richness of the soil, which precludes the necessity
of labour by almost spontaneously producing the fruits of the earth. In fact, the people
assist nature very little : we passed several vineyards in which the vines were suffered to
trail upon the ground ; whereas, if the branches were proj>erly supported, the owner
would be well rewarded by the superior quantity and quality of the produce.
The uncleanliness of the common people is disgusting beyond expression. I have
just been holding a conversation upon this subject with my landlord ; though himself a
notorious example, he severely censured the dirtiness of his countrymen, and seemed
to assign it as one cause of goiters. This assertion induced me to examine the person
of my host with somewhat more n^tpntion ; and I was rather disappointed to find, that
he proved an exception to his ov mark. Let me not, however, be understood as
insinuating that the inhabitants in gt ral are either goitrous, idio s, udolent, or dirty ;
like that traveller who asserted, that all the women of a certain tow n were crooked, red-
haired, and pitted with the small-pox, because his landlady happened to be so. Indeed,
I look upon national reflections in general to proceed from tlie most illiberal turn of
mind, and have always been cautious not to judge of the physical or moral character of
any people from a partial and superficial view. But the prevalency, in the present in-
stance, of goiters and idiocy, and the general dirtiness ud indolence of the common
people are too notorious to escape the observation of th^ most careless traveller.
Sion is situated near the Rhone, at the foot of three insulated rocks, that rise imme-
diately from the plain. The highest, called Tourbillon, supi^orts the ruins of the old
episcopal palace, still containing two or three untenanted itments, in one of which
are the portraits of the several bishops. On the second ro .v, denominated Valeria, are
observed the remains of the old cathedral, and a few houses belonging to the canons.
On Mayoria, the third rock, stands the episcopal palace, an ancient edifice of stone,
built in 1547. On seeing the apartr ',nts I was greatly struck with their plainness, and
could not avoid reflecting with pleasure on the simplicity of manners which must ne-
cessarily prevail in this country ; when the rooms inhabited by the sovereign, instead of
bespeaking the magnificence of a court, are scarcely superior to che dwelling of a pea-
sant. Two apartments principally engaged my attention. The I'rst is that in which,
the diet assembles ; at the upper end are two armed chairs for the bishop and the lands-
VOL. V. ■ 5 F
i!
i\
770
COXE's travels in SWITZERLAND,
hauptmann, and on each side a row of smaller scats for the deputies of the seven dixains;
The other apartment is the hall, in which the bishop holds his court, like the feudal
lords of ancient times ; at the further extremity is a raised seat, called a throne, sur-
rounded by a wooden balustrade, and, as an incitement to wisdom and impartiality, the
figures of Justice, and Solomon's Judgment are coarsely painted upon the walls.*
Sion is an ancient town, and was formerly the capital of the Seduni, who inhabited
this part of the country in the time of Julius Caesar. A few remaining inscriptions still
prove its antiquity ; and, among others so obliterated that I was not able to decypher
them, I observed one which was more legible: it is in honour of the enperor Au-
gustus, during his eleventh consulship, in this inscription the town is called Civitas
Scdunorum.
At Sion wc parted with our horses and guides, who had accompanied us from Alt-
dorf; and procured a piece of luxury, to which we had been for some time unaccus
tomed, I mean a eoacli. But, notwithstanding the concentrated heat of the climate,
and the great sultriness of the air, I |)refer riding or walking, as by what means I enjoy
a more unoljstructed view of the country : indeed the scenes arc so beautiful, and
so perpetually changing, that the attention is incessantly engaged by a variety of new
objects.
On entering the Lower Vallais, I perceived as much uncleanliness, but a greater ap-
pearance of industry ; and I am informed that the natives are not altogether so indolent
as the inhabitants of Sion and its environs.
This imputation of indolence will not hold good with respect to all the inhabitants of
the upper Vallais ; for in the eastern part of that district, which we entered after having
crossed the Furca, the soil, though far inferior, was much better cultivated, and the
people seemed more industrious. Some physical reasons may be assigned for this diffe-
rence ; for there the weather is not so sult'-y, the water is not unwholesome, the air re-
* Soon after the capture of Bern, the attempts to introduce the new constitution created great dissatis-
luctionamong the natives of the Upper Vallais. But the Bishop of Sion, who was then in the power of the
French, was under the necessity of affecting great pleasure at the overthrow of his sovereignly. The
Moniteur has preserved his letter on this occasion to the French Resident Mangourit, and the answer.
** Citizen Resident, 1 have learnt with extreme satisfaction, that the plan of a constitution for the
republic of the Vallais, guarantees, under your auspices to my diocese the preservation of the ca-
tholic, apostolic, and Roman religion, in all its purity. I want words to testify the most lively grati«
tude ; and I doubt not but our religion will be a restraint on my Hock, and inspire it with an implaca-
ble hatred of licentionsness and anarchy.
" Take, I beseech you. Citizen, under your powerful jn election the church of Sion and all the
clergy, of whom the greater part, particularly our chapter, in seconding my intentions, and execut-
ing my o ders, have distinguished themselves by a conduct calculated to inspire the people with
confidence !!> their worthy representatives, ami to re-animate tlic love of their country.
(Signed) » ANTONY, Bishop of Sion."
ANSWER OF MANGOURIT.
" Athanasius closed the doors of his church against the crimes of Thcodosius ; you have opened
yours to civic virtues, by facilitating the acceptance of the constitution of the Vallais.
" At your voice the canons of Sion repaired to the seven upper dixains, to prevent the people
(Vom being misled by malevolence.
" Glory be to your humanity !
« Schinner, one of your predecessors, occasioned the effusion of much blood ; you, Citizen Bishop,
vou love to spare bloodshed.
" An article of the constitution guarantees to your flock the maintcniuicc of their religious opinions.
" Your wise conduct secures to you for ever the homage of the friends of liberty, of wisdom, anHI
oCpcuicc." Moniteur, 15th Germinal.
[?n dixains,
the feudal
irone, sur-
tiality, the
'alls.*
inhabited
iptions still
D decypher
peror Au-
cd Civitas
from Alt-
unaccus
ic climate,
ans I enjoy
utiful, and
:ty of nen
greater ap-
so indolent
labitants of
ftcr having
d, and the
• this diffe-
the air re-
rcatdissatis-
powerofthc
ignty. The
I the answer,
ution for the
1 of the ca-
lively grati.
oil iinplacu-
aiul all the
and execut-
»eoplc with
opgf Sion."
lavc opened
tlie people
ten Bishop,
IS opinions,
isdom, and
VNJ) IN IHE COUNTRY OF 1J1£ GlllSONS.
771
niarkably salutary, and wc did not observe any of those goitrous persons or idiots, com-
mon in the midland partu.
Wc stopped at the village of ALirtigny, which, according to antiquaries, was the an.
cicnt Octodiir'im. It is said, that near this place may be traced the site of Scrgius GaU
ba's camp, one of Julius Caesar's lieutenants, who was sent to subdue the Verugri, tht
Nantuates, and the Seduni ; the ancient inhabitants of these districts. It seems evident
Indeed from Cazsar's description, in the third book of his Commentaries, that Octodu-
rum could not be far from the present situation of Martigny, which stands in a small
flain, encirck'd by hij;h mountams,and divided by the Dnuise, that falls into the Rhone,
cannot, however, ascertain from my own observation, whether any traces of a Roman
encampment still remain, nor could I gain the least inibrmation frotn the inhabitants ;
so that the conjecture concerning the situation of Octodurum rests only upon the faith
of antiquaries, and on the general position of the country.
Martigny is a place much frequented by travellers : it leads to the valley of Chamouny,
to St. Maorice, and the lake of Geneva, and is the passage of the merchandise which is
conveyed over the Great St. Bernard into Italy. Near Martigny we passed under the
majestic ruins of La Bathia, an old episcopal castle, crowning the summit of a craggy
rock, and impending over the impetuous Dran le. The road from hence to St. Mau-
rice runs under a chain of rocks, the Rhone flowing at a small distance through the
middle of a fertile vale. Having crossed the Trient, a turbid torrent which issues from
a narrow and obscure glen, remarkable for its rugged and romantic scenery, we arrived
at the Pisse- Vache, a cataract much noticed by travellers. The characteristic l cauty of
this fall is, that it seems to burst from a cleft in Uie middle of the rock, through hang-
ing shrulis, and forms a perpendicular column about two hundred feet in height. The
body of water being very ample, and the elevation not so considerable as to reduce it
entirely into spray, render the effect very striking. I enjoyed also the additional plea-
sure of seeing the sun rise opposite to this water-fall. The regular expansion of the
rays enlivening the diiferent parts of the column of water ; and the gradual descent of
the rainbow formed by the spray, were inexpressibly beautiful. These torrents are my
delight ; but perhaps they recur too often in my letters to continue to be yours. For-
merly travellers passed close to the Pisse- Vache ; but a few years ago part of the rock
falling down totally obstructed the road, which now runs through the middle of the
valley.
At the extremity of the Lower Vallais, the two chains of mountains that bound this
country approach towards the Rhone, which nearly fills the interval between. In this
"spot is situated the town of St. Maurice, built almost totally upon the rock at the foot of
some steep mountains, and at a small distance from the river. The ancient appellation
was Agaunum : that of St. Maurice is derived from an abbey, erected in the beginning
of the sixth century, by Sigismund king of Burgundy, in honour of a saint, who is
supposed to have suffertJ ir.artyrdom in this place ; he was the leader of the famous
Theban legion, said to have been massacred by order of the emperor Maximin, for not
renouncing Christianity. This history has given rise to much controversy : while some
authors have treated it as a mere forgery, others have contended for its authenticity
with as much zeal as if the truth of Christianity depended upon the decision. Without
entering into the merits of the question, I cannot but remark, that the cause of Christi-
anity has suffered more from weak and imprudent defenders, than from the sharpest at-
tacks of its most inveterate adversaries. Indeed, the question concerning the number
and sufi'erings of the martyrs has occasioned much idle disputation : should we reduce
the popular accounts of both within the bounds of probability, there will still remain suf-
5 F 2
i
>r
772
COXES illAVLLS IN SW M <. IIU AN D,
ricient evidi'iKc of the wonderful constancy and calm resolution of those primitive vie
tims; and wlRthcr a hundred thousand, or only fifty, suffered, Christianity will equally
stand u|)on the same immovable foundation. Nor is the inquiry more material con-
cerninf; the motives that actuated its powerful and cruel adversaries. It matters not
whether Decius ordered the Christians to be massacred, because they had been favoured
by his predecessor Philip, or from his attachment to the Pagan rites ; whether Maximin
persecuted them from interested motives ; Dioclcsian as introducinir innovations in his
government ; or whether Constantine protected them from ccriviction or policy. For
ihc truth of Christianity is in no respect affected either by the imprudence of its early
professors (if with any they were justly chargeable) or the political reasons that influenced
the Conduct of those emperors.
A few Roman inscriptions, chiefly sepulchral, and two defaced columns, are the only
uncontrovertcd remains of the antiquity of St. Maurice. It is principally distinguished
as being the chief entrance from the canton of Bern into the Vallais. This entrance is
formed by a narrow pass, so strongly furtified by nature, that a handful of men might
defend it against a considerable army. The stone bridge over the Rhone is much ad-
mired for its bold projection : it is of a single arch, and the span is a hundred and thirty
feet. Half of this bridge belongs to the Vallais, and the remainder to the canton of
Bern.* I am, &c.
LETTER XXXV.
Of the f^ailais.... Goiters and Idiots.
Trieut, August 22.
I AM now writing from the village of Trient, on my way to Mont Blanc and the Alps
of Savoy. From the mountain of the Furca, its eastern boundary, two vast ranges of
Alps enclose the Vallais : the southern chain separates it from the Milanese, Piedmont,
and part of Savoy ; the northern, from the canton of Bern. These two chains in their
various windings, form several small vallies, watered bv numerous torrents that rush into
the Rhone, as it traverses the whole district from the ^urca to St. Maurice. A country
thus entirely enclosed within high Alps, and consisting of plains, elevated vallies, and
lofty mountains, must exhibit a great variety of situations, climates and productions.
Accordingly, the Vallais presents to the curious traveller a quick succession of pros-
pects, as beautiful as diversified. Vineyards, rich pastures covered with catde, corn,
t)ax, fruit-trees, and forests, occasionally bordered by naked rocks crowned with ever-
laiMing snow.
The productions of the Vallais vary according to the great diversity of climates by
which this country is distinguished. It supplies more than sufficient wine and corn for
interior consumption, and exports a considerable quantity of both ; the soil in the mid-
land and lower districts being exceedingly rich and fertile. In the plain, where the
heat is collected and confined between the mountains, the harvest is usually finished in
* At an early period of the French revolution, the disaffected party of the Lower Vallais appealed
to Friince to emancipate their counu-y from their subjection to the Upper Vallais, but the French not
having matured their scheme of fraternization, their petition was rejected.
In February 1798, however, the people of the Lower Vallais were enfranchised, and admitted to an
equality of rights by the Upper Vallais ; butaftcr the conquest of Bern, and the revolution of the great-
er part of Switzerland, the inhabitants of the Upper Vallais rejected the new constitution, took up
arms, and defended themselves with great spirit. After several bloody defeats, and the capture of the
castle of Sion, which was stormed by the French, the natives submitted, and both districts were
moulded into one department called the Vallais, of which the capital is Sion.
fi
AMJ IN THK COUNinV 01 1 If E r.UISONS.
773
tivc vie
I equally
:rial con-
ittcrs not
favoured
Vfaximin
ns in his
'-y. For
its early
ifluenccd
the only
iguished
trance is
•n might
luch ad-
id thirty
anton of
gust 22.
Tie Alps
«nges of
zdinont,
in their
ush into
country
es, and
notions,
if pros.
-, corn,
h ever-
ates by
orn for
e mid-
2re the
shed in
ppealcd
nch not
d to an
5 great-
ook up
5 of the
s were
July ; whereas, in the more cltvattd parts, barley is the only grain that can be cultivated
with any success, and the crop is seldom cut before November. About Sion, the Hg,
the melon, and ail the other fruits of Italy, come to perfection : in consequence of this sin-
gular variety of climates, I tasted in the same day, strawberries, cherries, plums, pears,
and grapes; each the natural growth of the country.
There are no manufactures of any consequence ; and indeed the general ignorance of
the people is no less remarkable than their indolence ; so that they may be considered
in regard to knowledge and improvements, as some centuries behind the Swiss, who
are an enlightened nation. The peasants seldom endeavour to ameliorate those lands
v.'here the soil is originally bad, or to draw the most advantage from those which are un>
commonly fertile ; having few wants, and being satisfied with the spontaneous gifts of
nature, they enjoy her blessings without much considering in what manner to improve
them.
Before I take leave of the Vallais, I shall communicate the result of my inquiries con-
cerning the causes which contribute to render goitrous persons and idiots common in
these parts; premising, at the same time, that I must stand greatly in need of your can-
dour, when I venture to treat a subject so extremely complicated, and on which so many
different opinions have been advanced by naturalists and physicians.
The notion that snow water occasions goiters, is totally void of foundation ; for on
that supposition, why are they commoi> in the midland and lower parts, and extremely
rare in the higher regions of Switzerland ? particularly what reason can be assigned, wh}
the natives ^^ those places that lie most contiguous to the glaciers, and who drink no
other water than what descends immt;diately from those immense reservoirs of ice and
snow, are not subject to this malady ? Why are the inhabitants of those countries in
which there is no snow, afflicted with it? For these guttural tumours are to be found
in the environs of Naples, in the isJand of Sumatra, and at Patna and Purnea, in the East
Indies, where snow is unknown.
But, instead of repeating the various opinions on this subject, I shall at present con-
fine myself to the result of my own observations and inquiries.
The springs of this district are impregnated with a calcareous matter called in Swit-
zerland tuf,* nearly similar to the ir.crustations of Matlock in Derbyshire, so complete-
ly dissolved as not to affect the transparency of the water. Will it be deemed impro-
bable, that the impalpable particles of this substance should thus infoduce themselves,
by means of the blood, into the glands of the throat, and produce g Jters ?t I ground
this opinion on the following observations and facts :
* The Porus of the older authors.
The Tophus glareoso, argillaccus Polymorphus, of Linnseus, 186. h >• ..
The Tophus Pclyniorpluia of VVullerius, Syst. vol. ii. p. 394.
The Tophi of Kirv/un, p. 25, culled Duckstein by the Germans.
t Dr. Baillic, physician to St. George's hospital, has lately given a beautiful plate illustrative of the
diseased appearances of the Thyroid Gland, which is the seat of the Bronchocele, or Goiter. ''When
a section is made," he suys, « of the thyroid gland affected with this disease, it is found to contain a
number of cells hllcd with a transparent viscid fluid. This fluid become solid, like jelly, when the
gland has been preserved for some time in spirits." He notices too, that a few of the cells of one
gland, which he divided, were filled with a gntty, !iard, whitish matter.
It appears also that the structure of the thyroid gland is favourable to the deposition and detention
of stony particles carried into it by the blood; for it is supplied by four arteries, uncommonly large in
proportion to the size of the gland, and has no excretory duct, through which any substance once de-
posited can pass. Hence a very inconsiderable deposition of tuf might be sufficient to produce by ir-
ritation such an abundant secretion of viscid fluid as to distend the cells, and by this enlargement of
the gland;, gradually to occasion goiters. Baillic's Morbid Anatomy, p. 311. Second Fasciculus,
plate I.
V-
74
COXE's Tn.\VEI.o IN SWITZERLAND,
To sprak in rciutuI : diiriiif; my travels through Europe, I never failed to observe
that tuf, or this calcareous deposition, aboniuls in all those districts wherein pfoiters arc
common. I noticed poitrous persons and much tuf in Derbyshire, in various parts of
the Viill.iis, in the Valtelinc, at Luccrn, Friburgh, and Bern, near Aigle and Bex, in
several places of t!ie Pays do V'aud, near Dresden, in the ^ allies of Savoy and Piedmont,
near Turin and Milan.
To descend to particular instances. The inhabitants of Friburgh, Bern, and Luceni,
are much subject to guttural excrescences. With respect to Friburgh, I observed that
one of the principal springs which supplies the town with water, issues from a neighbour-
ing stonc-quarry, and has formed large dcpositionsoftufontherock from which it bub-
bles. The pipes also which convey water to the public fountains at Bern, are charged
with the same calcareous sediment ; and a gentleman, on whose veracity I can depend,
assured me, that he is subject to a small swelling in the throat, which usually increases
in winter, when he is chiiHy resident at Bern, and diminishes in summer on his removal
to other places, where the waters are not loaded with tuf.
T was, moreover, informed by general Pliffer, that at Lucern all the waters, excepting^
one spring, are impregnated with tuf, and that the natives who dwell near that spring, are
much less subject to goiters thai\ the other inhabitants ; that the same difference is ob-
served among the niembers of the same family, between those who drink no water but
what is drawn from that spring, and the others who do not use that precaution. The ge-
neral shewed me also the tin vessel, in which water was every morning boiled for his use,
and which Mas so speedily and thickly incrustated as to render it necessary to have it
cleansed twice a-week. The water which yields this deposition is as transparent as
crystal.*
I also visited many places contiguous to those districts wherein goiters and tuf are
frequent, and having precisely the same situation and climate, yet I observed no goiters
among the inhabitants, nor any appearance of tuf.
But the strongest proof in favour of this opinion is derived from positive fact. A
surgeon whom I met at the baths of Leuk, informed mc, that he had not unfrequently
extracted concretions of tuf stone from several goiters ; and that from one in particular
which suppurated, he had taken several flat pieces, each about half an inch long ; the
same substance, he added, is found in the stomachs of cows, and in the goitrous tu-
mours to which even the dogs of the country are subject. He likewise assured me,
that in the course of an extensive practice, he had diminished and cured the goiters of
many young persons by emollient liquors and external applications ; that his principal
method to prevent them in future consisted in removing the patients from the places
where the springs are impregnated with tuf, and, if that could not be contrived, by
forbidding the use of water which was not purified. He confirmed the report that in-
fants are occasionally born with guttural swellings, particularly those whose parents are
goitrous, and remarked that one of his own children had at its birth a goiter as lai^
as an egg; neither he nor his wife, who were both foreigners,! were afflicted with that
malady. He had dissipated it by external remedies ; and since that period, had inva-
• Although it appears that wherever there are goiters there is tuf-stone ; yet the reverse is by no
means true, that wherever the waters deposit tuf, there are always goiters : for perhaps the natives do
not drink of the springs which are loaded with tuf, or that substance is not suflicicntly dissolved in the
waters ; absolute solution being, perhaps, necessary to produce these swellings.
t In the former instance, goiters may, though perhaps erroneously, be esteemed hereditary ; but in
the latter, v.herc the parents are both foreigners and not goitrous, can scarcely be derived from any
«ther cause than the aliment of the mother.
AND IV THE COUNTRV 01' tlU. (.RIUONt,.
i'T.*^
obscrv c
oitcrs arc
8 parts or
(1 Bex, in
*iedmont,
I Lucern,
:rvcd that
eighbour-
h it bub.
e charged
II depend,
increases
s removal
excepting
pring, arc
ice is ob-
ivater but
The ge-
jr his use,
to have it
iparent as
id tuf arc
no goiters
fact. A
frequently
particular
long; the
itrous tu>
•ured me,
goiters of
principal
he places
rived, by
t that in-
irents are
r as large
with that
lad inva-
e is by no
natives do
ved in the
iry ; but in
I from any
riably prohihitr.l his family IVoni tasting tht- spring waters, iinliss tin") wi'ic distilled, or
mixed with wine or viiu^^ar; by uliicli means he preserved tlieni IVoni those tumours
that were extremely common among the natives of the town wliieli he inhabited.
Although it is by no tneatis my intention to trouble you with the v-rions opinion.H
which have been advanced on this subject; yet it would be unjust to withhold that of
M. de Saussurc, whose accurate researches and profound investigation on philosophical
subjects deserve to be weighed with the greatest attention. That able naturalist, in u
recent publication,**^ attributes the production of goiters not to the waters, but principally
to the concentrated heat of the climate, and stagnation of the air. He inl'orms us, that
in all his travels through the Alpine countries, he never observed goiters in any places
which are elevated more than 500 or 600 toisesf above the level ol the sea : he noticed
them in those vallies where the heat is concentrated, and the air stagnates, and that they
usually cease wherever the valley terminates, and the country expands into a large plain.
With great deference, however, to his opinion, may I be permitted to observe, that the
conclusion does not absolutely lollow i'rom these premises ? For it may be remarked,
that in places elevated more than 500 or 000 toises abo\ c the level of the sea, the springs
arc too near their sources to have dissolved a sufficient (juantity of calcareous matter, or
so minutely as may be requisite for the regeneration of goiters ; that when the valley ex-
pands into u plain, the waters may deposit their sediment by mixing with the rivers and
lakes, or by fdtrating through the earth and gravel. Butakhoiigh the two causes men-
tioned by Saussurc do not solely produce, they may assist in producing guttural excres-
cences, by relaxing the fibres, and disposing the glands of the throat to admit more
easily the introduction of the impalpable particles in the water. For it is observ:>.ble,
that women and children, whose frames arc more relaxed than those of men, arc more
liable to be afflicted with these swellings ; that the natives of those districts most remark-
able for the size and number of goiters, arc extremely wan and livid, much subject to
intermitting fevers, and other disorders judged to proceed from relaxation. Although
the concentrated heat, and stagnation of the air, may be allowed to have considerable
influence on the human body, yet they do not seem sufficient for the cftect in question,
without the intervention of some other cause : this cause seems to be the water, should
the facts already stated prove consonant to truth and experience.
It may be necessary, however, to obviate an objection, that goiters must rather origi-
nate from climate and situation ; because foreigners established in the country are never
afflicted with those tumours, while their children are no less subject to them than the na-
tives. But is it uncontrovertible, that no foreigner has ever been afflicted with this ma«
lady ? the question, I should presume, can scarcely be replied to in the affirmative.
And all that can be established, with any degree of certainty is, that foreigners are less
subject to these swellings than their children or the natives. In this respect the answer
is evident. Persons who usually settle in foreign countries are adults ; and adults are
doubtless much less liable than children to an endemial malady, whose operation is gra-
dual, and which requires much time before its effects are visible. It is remarked, that
among the natives tnemselves those persons who have escaped this disorder during their
infancy, are seldom attacked by it to any considerable degree at a more advanced age.
In reasoning upon this, as well as on similar subjects, where a cause is sought for ca-
pable of producing a certain effect, it is necessary to establish a primary and general cause,
whichalways and necessarily exists^ „ hcrever that effect is produced, and ta^xclude those
circumstances which do not always and necessarily exist, wherever that effect is produced.
* See voyages dans les Alpcs, cji. 48. vol. li. p. 480.
t 3)200 and 3,840 English feet.
i
u.
'
mtf^riif-
77rt
coxK*s rn.wf.i.s in s\viT;!EnLANi),
TIius, in the present instance : if snow- water occasions goiters, wherever there arc goiters
there must bo snow-water, which is contr.iry to fact and cxpcritiicc. If the concentrated
heat of tlie cUniatc, and stagnation of the air, arc necessary to the formation of goiticrs,
those cxcrcseenccb could never he formed wh(re these causes are wanting, which is not
ronfirmtd by fact and experience. If w aters impregnated with tuf, or with certain cal.
careous substances, produce goiters ; wherever there arc goiters, the natives must drink
waters so impregnated, and this seems agreeable to fact and cxi)eriencc.*
The same causes which generate goiters, probably oixralc \n the case of idiots ; for
wherever goiters prevail to a considerable degree, idiots invariably" abound : such is the
nice and inexplicable connection between our bodies and our nimds, that the one ever
sympathises with the other ; and it is by no means an ill-grounded conjecture, that the
same causes which affeer the body should also affect the mind, or, in other words, that
the waters which create obstructions and goiters should also occasion mental imbecility. f
Although these idiots are I'riqueiitly the children of goitrous parents, and have usually
those swellings themselves, yet tlu y are sonu times the offspring even of healthy parents,
whose other children are properly organised, and are themselves free from guttural ex-
crescences. I observed severa' children, scarcely ten > ears of age, with very large goi-
ters. These tumours, when '.iiey increase to a consideral)le magnitude, check respiration,
and reiKler those who are afflicted ^^'ith them exceedingly indolent and languid. Some
persons have, in opposition to the o|)inion which I have ventured to advance, supposed
that the small glandular swellings, which are common in many other parts, and ' large
excrescences, are more particularly observed in the Vallais, in the valley of Aost> and m
some other places, do not proceed from the same cause, and arc not the same disorder.
But suificicnt reasons have not been assigned for this opinion. During my expedition
through the Vallais and other parts of Switzerland, I noticed some of all proportions,
from the size of a walnut to almost the bigness of a peck loaf. As the same gradation
may be also observed in the species of idiots ; by a similar mode of argument, those who
possess some faint dawnings of reason might be discriminated from others, who are to-
tally deaf and dumb, and give no proof of existence but the mere animal sensations.
Whereas it is probable that in both instances the greater or lesser derangement of the
body or mind does not indicate a different complaint, but only diffi:rent degrees cf the
same complaint.
It is to be presumed, that a people accustomed to these excrescences will not be
shocked at their deformity ; but I do not find, as some writers assert, that they consider
them as beauties. To judge from the accounts cf many travellers, it might be supposed
that the natives, without exception, were either idiots or goitrous ; whereas, in fact, the
Vallaisans in general are a robust race ; and all that with truth can be affirmed is, that
goitrous persons and idiots are more abundant in some districts of the Vallais than per-
haps in any other part of the globe, j:
* The learned Mr. Wliitakcr, in his interesting account of the passage of Hannibal over the Alpb,
vol. i. p. 194, agrees with me in imputing tliu goilurs to the waters, but to the waters impregnated
with metallic particles, and he supports his opinion l>y the authority of Simler; but surely if so, the
metallic particles would have been constantly found in the waters, and occasionally in the glandular
<iwellings, which is not the fact.
t It has been suggested to me, by a very intelligent physician, that perhaps the impalpable parti-
cles of stone may penetrate by means of the blood into the glands of the bruin, and form concretions
which may aiTect that organ. It is a well ki>uwn fact, that earthy matter is frequently found in the
pituitary gland.
\ I cannot withhold from tlie reader a curious passage on goitrous persons and idiots, from an intr-
i^ating work published siiice my letters, which tends to confirm my remarks on this subject.
^.;
\NI) IN IHE COUNTliy OK Till. (.KISONw.
« it
c arc goiters
:oncciitr;itt'd
orgoiticra,
which isiiiot
ccnaiii cal-
must drink
Idiots; for
such is the
ic one ever
re, that the
words, that
mbc'cility.f
lave usually
ly parents,
ruttural ex-
y large jfoi-
respiration,
iti. Some
, supposed
large
ost, and m
e disorder,
expedition
proportions,
e gradation
, those who
vho are to-
sensations,
lent of the
rces cf the
^ill not be
y consider
supposed
" fact, the
ed is, that
than per-
r the Alps,
npregnated
y if so, the
: glandular
able parti-
;oncrctioiv-,
'und in the
im an intf-
:t.
It has been :\SHrtt'(l also that the people vcrj' much respect those idiots, at>de\ en ton
bider them as blessingH Ironi heaven ; which is htroii}>;ly contradieted by others. Upon
my questioning some gentlemen of this eouiitrj-, at the baths of I.eiik, they treated tht
notion as absurd and false; but whether they delivered iheir real sentiments, or were
unuilling to coiifirni what might lower their countrymen in the opinion ol a stranger,
will admit perliaps of some doubt. For having since thit time Iretjuenily inquired
among the l')\ier ranks, I am convinced that the common people esteem them l)lebsings
The} call them "souls olC tod, without sin:" and many parents prellr these idiot-chil
dren to those whose understandings arc perfect ; because, as they are incapable of inten
tionai criminality, they consider them as certain of happiness in a future state. Nor is
this opinion entirely without its good tft'ect, as it disiK ses the parents to |)ay greater at
tention to such helpless beings. These idiots are sultered to marry, us well among them
selves as with others. I am, &c.
KXTRACT FROM SAXO GRAMMATICUH, I'ORMI.IU.Y Rr.IKRREI) TO.
Nec silcntio implicandum, quod sequitur. Toko quidam alicpiamdiu regis (i. c. Ha
ruldi Bluatand) stipendia meritus ofliciis quibus commilitones superabat eomplures virtu
turn suarum hostes etTcccrat. Hie forte sermone inter convivas temulentius habitotam
copioso se sagittandi usu callere jactitabnt, ut pomum (piantumcunque exiguum baculo e
distantia superpositum, prima spiculi directione feriret. Quic vox primum obtrectan*
tium auribus excepta regis etiam auditum attigit. Sed inox principis improbitas patris
iiduciam ad fllii periculum transtulit, dulcissimum vita: ejus pignus baculi loco statui
imperans. Cui nisi promissionis aucior primo sagittu: conatu pomiun impositum CX'
cussisset, proprio capite inanis jactantiae puunas lueret. Urgebat impcrium regis miii-
tem majora promissis cdcre, alicnre obtiyctationis insidiis [>arum sobriie vocis jactum
carpentibus, &c.
KxhibitumTokoadolescentcm attentius monuit, ut %quis auribus capitequc indcflcxo
quam patientissimc strcpitum jaculi vcnicntis exciperet, ne levi corporis moiu cHicacis-
simtc artis cxpcrientiam frustrarctur. Praeterea demenda; I'ormidinis consilium circum.
spiciens, vultum ejus, ne viso telo tcrretur, avertit. Tribus deinde sagittis pharetra ex-
positis prima quam nervo inferuit proposito obstaculo incidit.
Interrogatus autema rege Toko cur plura pharetrw spicula detraxlsscr, cum fortunani
arcus scmcl duntaxut experimcnto prosequi dcbuisset. " Ut in tc," inqnit, " primi
errorcm reliquorum acuminc vindiearem, ne mea forte innocentia pcenam tiii impunita-
tem experiretur violcntia. Quo tam libero dicto et sibi fortitudinis titulum deberi docuit,
ct regis impcrium poena dignuin Oiitcndit." Lib. x. p. 280, edit. Leipsic, 1771.
" Goiters and idiots are very common in that part of Tai'tui7 which borders upon the Chinese Wall-
noth sexes are subject ui these swellings, but females more than males ; the latter removing oftciier
from the spots where tiie causes exist, whatever they may be that occasion them.
" These prenatural tumours did not appear to be attended with any other symptoms affecting the ge-
neral health or corporal functions of those in whom they were observed. But the minds oimany of
them were much weakened, and perhaps of all in a Icis degree. Some were reduced to a stale of ab-
solute idiocy. The spectacle of such objects, which fails not to conviy a sirious and even melancholy
impression to persons who view them for the first time, produces no such effect upon those among
whom they are bred. The objects themselves are, in their general habits, cheerful, and lead a mere
animul life, as contradistinguished from that in which any tlioughtor reflection is concerned. As they
act alone from instinct, or the mere impulse of the senses, so their actions, however injurious they may
happen to prove toothers, are free from intentional malice, luid occasion no resentment. Their per-
sons are considered in some degree as s.icred; and they are maintained by their families with pecu-
liar care." Account of the Embassy to Chma, vol. ii. p. 20 J.
VOL. V. 5 r.
w
M
778
COXr'l TRAVBLt IN SWI IZK II I. A N D,
LKTTKU XXXVI.
Passage n/thf Tote j\oirc„..Col tie Biilme.,..Monl li/anr.,.. Its great Elevatiou.
nenn:o, .tugust i28.
QUlTTINd Tricnt, \vc traversed some luirrow vallii's, through lonMs of |» nc and
fir, l)v ilie side of a small hut impcttiouH torreiii, which takes its rise from tht- neigh*
hourini^ glaeier. The road, which is verj ruggtd, is* carried over the sti'p crafts of u
mountain called La 'I'ete Noire. A little way from Trient we entered tht dutihy t*i Kau-
cigny, subject* to the king of Sardinia, and arrivtd at the vale of Chamounj, the great
mountains and glaciers of S.ivoy rising majestically In-fore us.
Another way leads from Trient to Chamouny over the Col de Halme. I pasjcd it on
u mule the 7th of September 1785 ; it is exceedingly steej), hni int d.mger* |,^, as re-
presented b) many travellers; for I did not even lind it ncet ,vi;tr<> lOilisniouiu ; and the
path, whll:!li^^in no part b.ire rock, runs through a thick \\t;(i(I < l< ilung the sides of the
mountain. \V'e set oil from 'IVienl on this e:tpedition about half past fou*", witb the
expectation of seeing the sun rise on the summit ol Mont Blanc, but were 'disappointed;
for we did not reach the Col de Halme in less than two hours, and day had already be-
gun to break. We enjoyed, however, from the summit an extensive prosiK'ct, which
many travellers consider as e(|ual to the most sublime prospects in Swiizerlat^d : on one
side it commands die Vallais, the Alps of St. Bernard, and the distant mountains of the
cantons of Underwalden and Bern ; the other comprehends Mont Blanc and the cir-
cumjacent heights. I observed the Point de plousson ; the Mortine, supporting on its
top the glacier of Buet, on which De Luc made his celebrated experiments to ascertain
the state of the atmosphere; the Point de la Tour; Lcs Aguilles d'Argcnticrc ; the
Aiguille de Midi, a niked rock starting out of a large mass of snow ; and, lastly, Mont
Blanc itself. The highest point of this gigantic mountain is in the shape of a compressed
hemisphere, and is called irom its form La Bosse du Dromedaire ; from that point it
gradually sinks, presents a kind of concave surface of snow, in the midst of which is a
small pyramid of ice ; then rises into a second hemisphere, called by some Little Mont
Blanc, but with more propriety by others, Lc Dome du Milieu, or the Middle Dome ;
thence it descends into another concave surface terminating in a point, indiscriminately
styled by the natives Aiguille de Goutc, Point de Goute, and Dome de Goute, and which
I shall name the Dome of Goute ; from that dome it ends aljruptly, and loses itself amid
the mountains that bound the vale of Chamouny.
Mont Blanc is particularly distinguished from other mountains by a mantle of ? now,
which clothes its summit and sides, almost without the intervention of the least rock to
break the glare of the white appearance, from whence its name is derived. This cir-
cumstance frequently deceives the eye unaccustomed to such objects, and in many situa-
tions renders it less lofty in appearance than it is in reality. Although the summit was
more than seven thousand feet above the spot where I stood, yet it did not impress me
with that astonishment which might be expected from its superior height and magnitude
above the circumjacent mountains. I was indeed more struck with the first view of the
:Sclir( ckliorn from the top of tiie Sheidee, than of Mont Blanc from the Col de Balmc.
• No'.v subject to France.
f.t
AMD IN iiir. cot;Niuv «a iiic ciitisoNJi.
T7P
lii'atiou.
Iiii(ust 28.
<j| |» Mc and
tin- iicigh'
' cr;i|;>«» of a
liy (;l Fau-
, the great
);is ;c d it on
I"' «-■>, as re-
|( ; and the
siilts of tfic
. nitb the
iippoinicd;
ilrcady be-
►c'ct, which
»d : on one
ains of the
kI the cir-
ting on its
10 ascertain
ititrc ; the
stiy, Mont
otnprcsscd
at point it
which is a
ittle Mont
Ic Don^e ;
riminafcly
md which
:self amid
of ?now,
St rock to
I'his eh".
tny sltua-
nmit wi\%
press me
agnitude
5W of the
^ Balme.
I'hc aununit of M:jnt Hlanc being of a i'onn(li<>h form, atul covered uith mkju, unites
beauty with grandeur; whercan tl»c S(hr(( khorn being piktd, nikcd, and its chugged
hides only sireaked with -inow, its grant! thar.ictirisMes are riii;gt(iii''ss and honor; and
hence it derives the name of Sehreckhorn, or the Peak of Terror.* Mut Mont Hl.ine
Hoon rt'-nfthumed its real importance, aeemed to increase in hi/.e and height, and sulci)
attracted fHir attention, until we entered the vale olCJjamoiiny.
You who are totally nnacfiiaintc tl with Alpine st:et».s, may |)crhaps conreivc a faint
idea of the elevation nf ihi> gigantic mountain, on being infornuil tli at the mantle ol
snow, which appears to cover \^% top and sides, exceecU an altitude of fom' thousand
feet perpendicular, and nnie thousand feet in a hori/.ontal direction from tlu' Dome of
Goute to the sunnnit ; and that the height of the snow and ice, estimate il from the sotnce
of the Arveron,aithe bottom ot the glacier of Muntan vert, to the sununit ol Mont Hl.me,
cannot be less than twelve thousand periJcndicular feet, or near three linjes as high as
Snowdon in North VValaw.
Five glaciers extend ino this vale of Chamnuny, and are separated from each other bj
forests, corn-fields, and meadows ; so that large tracts of ice are blended with cultivation,
and perpetually succeed each other in the most singular and striking vicissitude. 'I'hesc
glaciers, which lie chiilly in the hollows of the mountains, and arc some leagues in
length, imite at the foot of Mont Hlune, the highest mountain in Kurope, and prubaU}
of ine ancient world.
According to the calculations of Dc Luc (by whose itnprovcmcnt of the barometer
elevations are taken with a degree of ficility and accuracy before un.itlainabK ) the height
of this mountain above the level of the sea is '^Ji)!^ French toises, or 15,304 ILn^lish
fect;t or, according to Sir George Schuckborough, of 15,662 feet.
De Luc having found the altitude of the liuet, from thence took geometrically the
elevation of Mont Blanc. The labours of this celebrated naturalist, and his rules for
computing heights by the barometer, are to be found in his very valuable treatise, •• Sur
les Modifications de I'Atmosphere." These rules are explained, and his tables reduced
to English measure, by Dr. Ma&kelyne, Astronomer Royal ; and still more fully by the
Rev. Dr. Horsley.J •
The a<;curacy of these barometrical measurements was verified by Sir George Schuck-
borough, in a number of ingenious experiments to ascertain the elevation of several
mountains of Savoy, a short time before I arrived at Geneva. He Jollow*. d Dc Luc's
method; computed the heights of several mountains, reciprocally, by barometrical and
geometrical observations, and perceived that they almost exactly coincieled. Having
lound the elevation of the Mole above the lake of Geneva, he took from thence the geo-
metrical altitude of Mont Blanc. During the course of these experiments, he was
enabled toeorreet some trifling errors in Dc Luc's calculations, to improve hisdiscovc-
ries, and to facilitate the means of taking elevations, by simplifying the tables and rules.
• The traveller will recollect tliut I am here clcHcribiiig Mont Hliiiic, as observed from the Col dc
Balme,' I the vale oiChamouiiy. Those who have seen i( iVoni the vallty of Aost assure mc, |thal
it is not on that side covered with a mantle of snow, but exceeds even the Sehreckhorn in iniggedness
und horror.
t In reducing the French toise, which is equal to six French feet, to English measure, I have consi-
dered the proportion of the English to the French foot as 1 j to 16. Its real proportion, according to
ihe accurate calculation ofSirGeorge Schuckborough, is lr> to 16 anda small fraction; but the error
Ml my calculation being not one toise in a thousand, in order to prevent confusion, I have omitted the
fraction.
\ Now bishop of Rochester. Both these treatises are published in the Philosophical Transactions
for the year 1774.
.■> n 2
^
780
COXE's THAVELS in SWITZERLAND,
Toists.
Enj?. Feet.
.3,411
21,830
38,21(5
372,382
4,000
23,600
10,000
64,000
20,000
128,000
28,000
179,200
I am con\ iiiccd, from the situation of Mont Blanc, and its superior altitude above the
surrounding mountains, that it exceeds the loftiest point in Switzerland, which is, next to
Mont Blanc, the most elevated ground in I'Airope. That it is higher than any part of
Asia and Africa, is an assertion which can only be proved by comparing the judicious
calculaiions of modern travellers with the exaggerated accounts of former writers ; and
by showing that there is probably no moimtain in those two quarters of the globe, whose
altitude surpasses 15,000 feet.
Perhaps in no instance has the imagination of man been more given to amplincation,
than in ascertaining the heights of the globe. Gruner, in his description of the Swiss
glaciers, has mentioned the elevation of some remarkable mountains, agreeably to the
calculations of several famous geographers and travellers, both ancient and modern.
Accordiuf^ toSirubo, tin- higliost luountaia of the ancient world was tjliovit
Accordinjj; to Uiccioli ......
Ac( online; to liiilur Kircher, wlio took the elevations of niouniuins by the
unccrtiiiii method of ineiisminj; tht'r shcidows,
vFUiiu is .......
Tlie peak of Teucrift" .....
Mount Athos ......
Lat-issain Egypt ......
But these calculations are evidently so extravagant, that their exaggeration must strike
the most common observer. If we consult more modern and rational accounts, it ap-
pears that the peak of Tencriff and ALtna. have been frequently supposed the highest
points of the globe. TeneriflP is estimated by some natural philosophers to be 3,000
toises, or 19,200 feet above the level of the sea ; but, according to Feuille, this elevation
is reduced to 2,070 toises, or 13,248 feet ; whereas iEtna, by the accurate computations
of Saussure, rises only* 1672 toises, or 10,7001 feet above the sea. Hence it appears,
that there are no mountains, except those in America (the elevation whereof, according
to Coi^amine, surpasses 3000 toises, or 19,200 feet) which are equal to the altitude of
Mont Blanc.
In order, however, to determine with absolute certainty that Mont Blanc is the high-
est point of the old world, it would be necessary to estimate, by the same mode of men-
suration, Mc it Blanc, the Schrcckhorn, the peak of TenerifF, the mountains of the Moon
in Africa, the Taurus, and the Caucasus.
• According to Sir George Schuckborough, 1,673 toises, or 10,934 feet; who says, " I have ven-
turcd to compute the height of this celebrated mountain from my own tables, though from an observa-
tion of M. De Su>issure in 1773, which that gentleman obligingly communicated to me. It will serve
to show that this volcano is by no means the highest mountain of the old world ; and that Veauvius,
placed upon Mount jEtna, would not be equal to the height of Mont Blanc, which I take to be the most
elevated point of Europe, Asia, and Africa."
I am happy to find my conjecttires corroborated by that ingenious and accurate observer.
Height of ^tna, according to Sir tieorge 10,954 Feet.
Of Vesuvius, according to Saussure 3,900
Of both together ---.....
Height of Mont Blanc, according to Sir George ...
DiflFerence, or the height of Mont Blanc above that of ^tna and
Vesuvius united
14,834
15,662
808
For still further information on this curious subject, the reader is referred to M. Trembley's
Analyse d'Experiences sur la Mesure des Hautures, in Saussurc's Voyages dans le» Alpes, vol. ii.
p. 616.
f.l
•' I
AND IN HIE COUNfllV OF THE PRISONS.
781
ude above the
ich is, next to
n any part of
he judicious
writers ; and
:lobe, whose
' i
implification,
or the Swiss
L'cably to the
modern.
Eiif^. R'ct.
21,830
~'5,600
64,000
128,000
179,200
J must strike
ounts, it ap.
the highest
to be 3,000
his elevation
omputations
:e it appears,
f, according
le altitude of
is the high-
ode of men-
jf the Moon
" I have ven-
n an observa-
It will serve
at Veauvius,
3 be the most
ver.
4 Feet.
Trembley's
Ipes, vol, ii.
The chain of the Caucasus has long been deemed the highest mountains of Asia; and
some j)hilosophers, upon considering the great superiority of the eastern rivers over the
European, both in dcj)th and breadth, have dra-.\ n a presumptive argument, that the
Asiatic mountains are much more lofty than those of Europe. But conjectures are now
banished from natural philosophy ; and, until it shall be proved from undoubted calcu-
lations, that tlic highest part of the Caucasus rises more than 15,000 feet above the level
©f the sea, Mont Blanc mav be fairl\' considered as more elevated.
LETTER XXXVII.
Glacier of Bosson Moiitanvert.,.. Expedition across the Valley of Ice.
AUGUST 23d, wc mounted by the side of the glacier of Bosson, to les Murailles de
Glace, so culled from their resemblance to walls : they form large ranges of ice of pro
digious thickness and solidity, rising aL^ruptly, and parallel to each other.* Some of
these ranges appeared about a hundred feet high ; but, if we may believe our guides,
they are four hundred feet above their real base. Near them were pyramids and cones
of ice of all forms and sizes, shooting to a very considerable height, in the most beauti-
ful and fantastic shapes. From this glacier, which we crossed without much difficulty,
we enjoyed a fine view of the vale of Chamouny.
The 24th. We had proposed sallying forth this morning very early, in order to visit
the valley of ice in the glacier of Montanvert, and to penetrate as far as the time would
admit ; but the weather proving cloudy, and likely to rain, we deferred our departure
till nine. Having procured three guides, we ascended on horseback about three miles ;
we were then obliged to dismount, and scrambled up a steep and rugged path, called
" the road of the crystal-hunters." From the summit of the Montanvert we descended
to the edge of the glacier, and made a refreshing meal upon some cold provision which
we brought with us. A large block of granite, called " La pierre des Anglois," served
for a table ; and near us was a hovel,t where those who make expeditions towards Mont
Blanc frequently pass the night. The scene around us was magnificent and sublime ;
numberless rocks rising boldly above the clouds, some of whose tops were bare, others
covered with snow; many of these peaks, gradually diminishing towards their summits,
end in sharp points, and are called Needles. Between these rocks the valley of ice
stretches several leagues in length, and is nearly a mile broad, extending on one side
towards Mont Blanc, and on the other, towards the plain of Chamouny.
The names of the principal needles are. Aiguilles de Midi, de Dru, de Bouchard, de
Moine, de Tacul, de Charmeaux ; the five glaciers, that stretch towards the plain of
Chamouny, and unite at the foot of Mont Blanc, are called Tacona, Bossons, Montan-
vert, Argentiere, and Tour.
Having sufficiently refreshed ourselves, we prepared for our adventures across the ice.
We had each of us a long pole spiked with iron ; and, in order to secure us from slip-
ping, the guides fastened to our shoes crampons, or small bars of iron, provided with
four spikes. The difficulty in crossing these vallies of ice arises from the immense
chasms, which our guides assured us in some places are not less than five hundred feet
in depth. I can no otherwise convey to you an image of this body of ice, broken into
irregular ridges and deep chasms, than by comparing it to waves instantaneously frozen
in the midst of a violent storm.
*In 1785, these murailles de glace no longer existed.
t Since my first expedition, Mr Blair, an English gentleman, has built a more commodious voo(i
.en hut, which, from him, is called Blair's Cabin.
— «3»*'
782
v;OXE i; TUA^'ELS IN SWITZERLAND,
I
W'c bijjan our walk with great slowness and deliberation ; butgraduaHy gaining cou-
rage and confidcnee, we soon found that we could safely pass along those places, where
the ascent and descent were not very considerable, much faster even than when walking
at the rate of our common pace : in other parts we leaped over the clefts, and slid down
the steeper declivities. In one place we were obliged to tre id with peculiar caution.
After walking some paces sideways along a narrow ridge of ice, scarcely three inches
i)road, \\x stept across a chasm into a little hollow, which the guides formed for our
feet, and ascnided by mtans of small holes made with the spikes of our poles. This
account appears terrible ; but we had not the least apprehension of danger, as the guides
w ere exceedingly careful, and took excellent precautions. One of our servants had the
courage to follow us without crampons, or nails in his shoes, which was certainly danger-
ous, on account of the slipperiness of the leather when wetted.
AVehad now almost reached the opposite side, when we were obliged to make a cir-
cuit of above a quarter <jfa mile, in order to get round a broad chasm. This will give
you some idea of the diflicu'ty attending excursions over some of these glaciers : our
guides informed us, tiiat when they hunt chamois and marmots, these unavoidable cir-
cuits generally carry them six or seven miles, when die direct distance is scarcely two.
A storm threatening every moment, we were obliged to hasten off the glacier ; for rain
renders the ice exceedingly slippery, and in case of a fog, which generally accompanies
a storm in these upper regions, our situation would have been extremely dangerous.
Indeed we had no time to lose ; for we had scarcely quitted the ice before the tempest
began, and soon became Ncry violent, attended with frequent flashes of lightning, and
loud peals of thunder, which being re-echoed within the hollows of the mountains, added
greatly to the awful sublimity of the scene.
We crawled for a considerable way upon our hands and feet along a steep and bare
rock, and down one of the most diflieult and rugged precipices I ever descended in
Switzerland ; the thunder at the same time roaring over us, and the rain pouring down
like torrents. After much diflieulty, but without the least accident, we gained the valley
of Chamouny, and returned to the inn, as wet as if we had been plunged into water, but
perfectly gratified with our expedition.
In my second excursion, to the valley of Chamouny in 1785, instead of crossing the
glacier, I ascended, in company with three Englishmen and a Swiss gentleman, from
Blair's cabin, about an hour and a half, over the bare and rugged rocks, to a summit
under the Aiguille de Charmox, near the spot from which a Genevan unfortunately fell
and was dashed to pieces. On this summit, at the very edge of the fearful precipice
which overlooks the vale of Chamouny, stood a collection of stones, about ehree feet
high, called by the natives Ic bon homme. We immediately raised this heap to the
height of six feet, and piled up another of the same elevation, which we styled, in the
language of the country, le monument de quatre Anglois, in memory of the four* Eng-
lishmen who amused themselves in forming it.
I employed an hour in ascending part of the Montanverton horseback, the same time
in walking up to Blair's cabin, an hour and a half to the monument de quatre Anglois,
half an hour in descending to Blair's cabin, and three quarters of an hour in passing
from thence to Chamouny.
* Mr. Whitbrcad, the two Mr. Cliflbicls, aiul myself. We were accompanied and assisted by M
Exchaquct, a Swiss gentleman, remarkable for his numerous expeditions into these Alps.
■f.
AND IN THE COUNTIIV 01 IHE GUI30NI
783
ining coii-
ccs, where
n walkin^^
slid down
caution,
rec inches
d for GUV
cs. This
he guides
ts had the
y danger-
lake a cir-
will give
;icrs : our
dable cir-
•cely two.
for rain
ompanies
"igcrous.
-* tempest
ling, and
lis, added
and bare
ended in
ng down
:Iie valley
^ater, but
Jsing the
m, from
summit
ateJy fell
)recipice
iree feet
p to the
1, in the
r* Eng.
ne time
^nglois,
passing
;d by M
I made this expedition in company with M. Kxchu(iuct, a Swiss gentleman, native of
Aubonne, and director- general of the mines of Savoy. His repeated expeditions into
these regions have enabled him to execute a model in relief of the valley of Chamouny,
Mont Blanc, the circumjacent Alps, and glaciers.* [n order to render this model still
more valuable to the naturalist, he collects specimens of the dittlrent stones which com-
pose the mountains represented on the plan. He is now employed by the government
of Bern in constructing a model of the district of Aiglc.
M. Exchaquet has discovered a more commodious route tlwn that hitherto followed,
to ascend the Buet and Mount Breven, wi 'chare described by M. VanBerchem, secre-
tary to the Society of Scitnees al Lausanne, in his letterf to Mr. Wytteribach of Bern,
relating an expedition to the mines of Faucigny, and the glaciers which extend at the
foot of Mont Blanc. In these letters the reader will find, beside much accurate and
pictures(|ue desciiption, an account of several fossil and vegetable productions of the
higher Alps.
LETTER XXXVHI.
Excursion towards the Summit of the Couvercle.
IN my subsequent expedition to the valley of Chamouny, I proposed pushing my
course slili further towards the glacier of Talefrc, but particularly to the Couvercle, of
which I had read a very curious description in Saussure's work. But having bruised my
foot in ascending the Monianvert, I was prevented from executing my purpose. You
will, however, have no reason to regret my disappointment, on receiving the follo\ving
account of that expedition, extracted from notes communicated by a friend.
We quitted the l*riory at six in the morning, accompanied by Michael Paccard and
Marie Coutet, two guides of Chamouny, traversed the plain, and ascended the Montan-
vert through a wood ol pines. We had fnie views of the glacier which gives rise to the
Arveron, and of tlie vale of Chamouny, chequered in a most singular manner with
alternate rows of arable and pasture land. After continuing about an hour, we quitted
our mules, proceeded on foot, and in an hour and a half reached Blair's Hut, on the
top of the Montanvert, where we rested for a few minutes.
We then descended to the glacier, coasted it by the path of the crystal hunters, and
in about half an hour came to some difficult passes called Les Fonts, or the Bridges,
which run over a perpendicular rock, at the edge of a frightlul precipice. These pas-
sages, though still difficult, were extremely dangerous, until, by order of Saussure, the
rock was in some parts blown a a • with gunpowder, and small holes formed for the
hands and feet. The first bridge was about forty paces in length, and the two others
somewhat less difficult, of about ten paces each. In a quarter of an hour we arrived at
a foimtain, vvhich drops from the roof and sides ol' a natural grotto, the inside whereof
is overgrown with large tufts of the ranunculus glacialis. Having walked about eight
miles since our departure from Chamouny, we sat down in this sequestered grotto and
made our first repast. ^
From hence we crossed some sirew, the remains of the last winter's avalanche, and
immediately got upon the Moraine, the term given to the stones and earth which the
glaciers disgorge on each side, after having received them irom the impending momv
• This plan has been finished, and a coloured print of it published,
t Excursion dans les Mines dc Haut Faucigny, &c. Lauhiuine, 1787,
s
V84
coxe's travels in switzeulanu,
lains : they are very treacherous and difficul* to walk upon. The ice upon which these
stones rest is harder than that of the rest of the glacier ; and the earth is laid in such
regular and ecjuable heaps as to give the appearance of art. As we looked from htncc
over the valley of ice, the passage seemed impracticable ; so nunurous and broad were
the chasms which intersected it in every direction, many bearing a tremendous appear-
ance, and of an astonishing depth ; but we soon found that it only required courage
and activity. Instead of crampons we had large nails in our shoes, which more effec-
tually answered our purpose, and our spiked sticks were on this occasion particularlj
serviceable. Having descended upon the glacier, we found the ice softened by a warm
wind, which rendered it less slippery than usual. \Vc continued along it about a quarter
of an hour, then regained and walked along the Moraine near half an hour. \Ve now
embarked upon the great valley of ice called Glacier des Bois, 1 own not without emotion
to see ourselves upon this extraordinary desert, broken into frightful chasms, through
the maze of which we were to jiass. It was curious to observe the numerous little rills
produced by the collection of drops occasioned by the thaw ing of the ice on the upper
part of the glacier : these little rills hollo^v out some channels, and torrent-like preci-
pitate themselves into the chasms \vith a violent noise ; increasing the body of waters
formed by the melting of the interior surface, and finding an outlet imder the immense
arch gf ice in Uie valley of Chamouny, from which the Arveron rushes. This ice-water
was agreeable to the palate, and extremely refreshing from its coolness.
The field of ice, which at first sight seemed impervious to all but the chamois and mar-
mot, and scarcely practicable even for the daring footsteps of man, is traversed by flocks
of sheep, driven to the scanty pasturage which the op^josite rocks afford. The shep-
herds leave them in these desolate spots, and visit them at different intervals. We ob-
served their track over the ice, and saw a flock returning ; one shepherd preceded as a
guide, and another followed the herd : we had the good fortune to preserve a sheep which
had strayed from the flock.
As we were continuing our course, we were surprised by a loud noise ; and, looking
round, perceived a large fragment of rock which had detached itself from one of the
highest needles : it bounded from precipice to precipice with great rapidity, and, before
it reached the bottom, was reduced almost entirely into dust. Having proceeded about
an hour, we were astonished with a view far more magnificent than imagination can con-
ceive : hitherto the glaciers had scarcely answered my expectations, but now far sur-
passed them. Nature clad herself in all her terrors. Before us was a valley of ice
twenty miles in extent, bounded by a circular glacier of pure unbroken snow, called
Tacu, which leads directly to the foot of Mont Blanc, and is surrounded by large
conical i wwks, terminating in sharp points like the turrets of an ancient fortification ;
to the right rose a range of magnificent peaks, their intervals filled with glaciers ; and
far above the rest, the majestic summit of Mont Blanc, his highest point obscured with
clouds. He appeared of such immense magnitude, that at his presence the circumjacent
mountains, however gigantic, seemed to shrink before him, and " hide their diminished
heads."* In half an hour we arrived at the Moraine, which forms a boundary of the
valley, crossed it, and proceeded upon a body of ice about three quarters of a mile broad.
Here the ice was more even and free from chasms than in the great valley. We then
passed a second Moraine, and beyond that another mass of ice to a third Moraine : de«
* Milton.
AND IN THE COUNTRV OF THE ORISONS.
785
vhich tlicbc
lid in such
from hmcc
broad were
aiis appear.
ed courage
nort effec-
particulurl}
by a warm
ut a quarter
\Ve now
)ut emotion
IS, through
IS little rills
n the upper
-like preci-
y of waters
»e immense
is ice- water
)is and mar.
d by flocks
The shep-
Weob-
needed as a
heep which
nd, looking
one of the
and, before
eded about
on can con-
ow far sur-
illey of ice
low, called
d by large
rtification ;
iciers; and
cured with
'cumjacent
diminished
lary of the
nile broad.
We then
raine: de.
scending from thence we came upon the last ridge of ice, considerably broader than th(
two former and full of large chasms : it is separated from the rock only by a very nar
row Moraine. These Moraines contiiin great quantities of crystal.
Here ive turned a little to the right, and ascended the valley of ice, the scene every
moment increasing in magnificence and horror. In a short time wc arrived at the foot
of the Couvercle, having walked about six miles on the ice. VVe now found it difli-
cult to quit the ice, and the first part of the descent ^vas really perilous. One step was
truly dreadful ; a bulging rock entirely smooth, and presenting a precipice of very con-
siderjble depth, which vviis terminated by an immense chasm in the ice, seemed to for-
bid our progress ; a small hollow, however, in the middle served lor one* foot, and from
thence we bounded over to the firm ground. One guide went first, and held out his
hand on the opposite side, whilst the other helped and directed us where to plac e our
feet. We continued ascending a path which now seemed without danger, though very
narrow and steep, and carried along the ridge of precipices. The scenery ...ound was
indeed so sublime as to banish all ideas of fatigue and apprehension. Half an hour more
brought us to the side of a fountain, where we sat down to our dinner. We had now
employed five hours and a half from Chamouny, and notwithstanding all diificulties and
necessary halts, had walked fifteen miles, but none of us complained of fatigue.
The clouds beginning to gather, warned us to hasten to the top of the Couvercle.
From that station we had the view of three stupendous vallies of ice, the glacier of Tale-
fre to the left, in front that of I'Echaut, and the Tacu to the right; all uniting in one
great valley of ice called the Glacier dcs Bois, which stretched under our feet, and was
surrounded and ornamented by the rugged needles. The dead silence which reigned
in this place was only interrupted by the bounding of distant chamois, and the cries of
alarm which the marmots gave to their tribes at our approach.
Having refreshed ourselves, •we proceeded to the top of the Couvercle, a most extra-
ordinary rock of granite, having the appearance of a large irregular multilateral build-
ing placed on a mountain ; the ascent was laborious, but {icrfectly secure. Towards
its foot we found a bottle containing the names of two Englishmen who had reached that
place about a fortnight before, and probably flattered themselves that no stranger would
go beyond them. We wrote our names on the reverse of the paper, and carried the
bottle with us to the summit of the Couvercle. Three quarters of an hour brought us
to the point, and we reached a rock overhanging a precipice which my eyes dared not
measure. In this situation wc were surin-ised with a thunder storm, which added great
horror and magnificence to the scene. We took shelter under an impending rock, and
listened to the roaring of the storm with a mixed sensation of fear and pleasure. On
reflecting in this place that we were to measure baek the same ground, and to undergo
a repetition of the same difficulties, we were not exempted from alarm ; but recollect-
ing that it is the duty of man to encounter some dangers, in order to behold such glo-
rious scenes, we from that moment banished all apprehensions.
Our view from the top of the Couvercle comprehended the same sublime scenes wc
had enjoyed from its base, but considerably heightened and enlarged ; the stupendous
extent of ice appeared like a rugged exp^vnse ol frozen sea, bounded by the most gi-
gantic rocks, and terminated by Mont Bianc, the AtLis of the gloI)e. Although we
wcri thus entirely enclosed between ice and t.^ow, and barren crags where all vegetation
might be supposed to cease ; yet our eyes reposed on a triangular rock, clothed with
grass and alpine plants, and starting up like a fertile island in the midst of a desolate
ocean. It is known by the name of the Garden, and exhibits a curious cont«^st to the
surrounding dreariness.
VOL. V.
5 H
■I
I
k
il!
786
COXE'S TRAVELS IN SWITZERLAND,
During our expeditions into the Alps, we had frequently foiind occasion to remark
the peculiarly deep shade of the blue colour* in the " pure Empyreal ;"t and to-day
we were more particularly affected with this circumstance. It conveyed a most sublime
idea of the infinity of space : the higher wc ascended the more beautiful it seemed ; and
we were informed by a person accustomed to alpine scenes, that, on considerable eleva-
tions, he had frequently observed the stars at noon-day.
Our descent from these icy regions was no less fortunate than our ascent ; we reached
the Priory at seven in the afternoon, without the least accident, and wrapt in astonish-
ment on the recollection of scenes which surpass the imagination, as much as they defy
description. I am, 8cc.
LETTER XXXIX.
Farious attempts to reach the Summit of Mont Blanc... Successful Expedition of
.Tames Batma and Dr. Paccard....Of Saussure....His physical Observations.
VARIOUS attempts having been made to reach the summit of Mont Blanc, as well
by the guides of Chamouny, as by Messrs. de Saussurc and Bourrit ; a chronological
account of the principal expeditions which have at length terminated successfully, will
not, perhaps, be uninteresting.
The first was made by M. Coutcran and three guides of Chamouny, Michael Paccard,
Victor Tissay, and Marie Coutet. On the 13th of July 1776, they set off from the
Priory, about eleven in the evening ; passed between the glaciers of Bosson and Tacona ;
and, after employing above fourteen hours in mounting rugged and dangerous ascents,
in crossing several vallies of ice, and large plains of snow, found themselves on the top
next to Mont Blanc. At first sight it appeared scarcely a league distant ; but they soon
discovered that the clearness of the air, the extraordinary whiteness of the snow, and
its great height, made it seem nearer than it was in reality ; and they perceived with
regret, that it would require at least four hours more to reach the summit, even sup-
posing it practicable. But as the day was far advanced, and the vapours towards the
summit of Mont Blanc began to gather into clouds, they were obliged to relinquish
their enterprise. As they were returning in great haste, one of the party slipped in
attempting to leap over a chasm of ice. He held in his hand a long pole spiked with
iron, which he had struck into the ice ; and upon this he hung dreadfully suspended
for a few moments until he was released by his companions. The danger he had just
escaped made such an impression upon him that he fainted, and continued for some time
in that situation : he was at length brought to himself, and, though considerably bruised,
sufficiently recovered to continue his journey. They arrived at Chamouny about eight
in the evening, after a journey of two- and- twenty hours : as some sort of recompence
for so much fatigue they enjoyed the satisfaction, at least, of having approached nearer
to Mont Blanc than any former adventurers.
According to Sir George Schuckborough, the summit which they attained is more
than 13,000 feet above the Mediterranean. These persons, however, did not take the
necessary precautions for so perilous an enterprise ; for the expedition was not only ex-
tremely hazardous, but also far too fatiguing and difficult to be accomplished within
* The depth of this blue colour is owing to the extreme purity and transparency of the air. Saussure
made some curious experiments to ascertain the exact shade of blue which forms the colour of the
heavens in this elevated spot. By means of slips of paper stained with different tints of blue, from
the pulest to the darkest, he formed a scale of 51 shades, and found that the 39th was the colour of
the heavens. Vol. iv. p. 158. t Milton.
M
AND IN 1II£ COUNlitV UF lUL GKISON;
^^
I to remark
and to-day
ost sublime
emcd ; and
rable eleva-
we reached
n astonish-
IS thev dcfv
'pedition of
tions.
nc, as well
ronological
jfully, will
el Paccard,
IF from the
id Tacona ;
us ascents,
on the top
t they soon
snow, and
eived with
even sup-
owards the
relinquish
slipped in
>iked with
suspended
e had just
some time
y bruised,
}out eight
compence
led nearer
d is more
t take the
t only ex-
id within
Saussure
lour of the
blue, from
: colour of
twenty-four hours. The failure of this expedition seemed for some tinu: to repress ull
future attempts, until the IndeHitigaMe Bourrit infused a new spirit into the inhubitiuits
of Chamouny. After reiterated though unsuccessful attempts, on the 11th of Sep.
tcmber 1784, Bourrit, accompanied by six guides, departed from Biomsay, and was
scaling, as he expresses himself, the rampart of Mont Blanc, when he siuUlenly found
himself so extremely affected by the intense cold, that he was unaljje to proceed.
Marie Coutet and Francis Guidet, two of the guides who attended him in this ex-
pedition, preceded their company, and ascended to the Dome of (loute, which is about
9400 feet in a horizontal direction from the summit. Marie Coutet inff)rmed mc, that
they passed the Middle Dome, and walked along the ridge between that dome and the
summit at far as some high rocks, which appear from the vale of Chamouny like small
points rising out of the snow, but night approaching obliged them to return.
On the 4th of September 1785 Marie Coutet and James Balma reached a place under
a rock at considerable elevation, where they passed the night. Setting off ijelorc sun-
rise, they found themselves about seven on the Dome of Goute, and were proceeding
towards the summit with a fair prospect of success, when a violent storm of hail ac-
companied with a strong wind compelled them to return.
On the 13th of September Messrs. de Saussure and Bourrit, attended by twelve
guides well provided with barometers, thermometers, and other instruments, for the
purpose of making the necessary observations, departed from Bionasay, and arrived at
a hut, which they had ordered to be constructed at Pierre Ronde 7808 feet above the
level of the sea. Here they passed the night, and early the next morning reached the
Dome of Goute without the least accident, and without much difficulty ; where they
were stopped by a fresh fall of snow, into which they sunk so deep that all farther progress
was impracticable. Saussure informs us, that the mercury in the barometer sunk
eighteen inches and a half, and that he reached an elevation of 1290 toises, or 8256
English feet.
At length; in July 1786, six guides of Chamouny having failed in another attempt,
James Balma, one of the party, being overtaken by darkness, as he was rambling upon
the ice, missed his way, and passed the night in a spot above the Dome of Goute, ele-
vated more than 12,000 .eet above the level of the sea. His youth, and the strength
of his constitution, having preserved him from the effects of the nocturnal cold in so
severe an atmosphere, at the approach of morn he reconnoitred the situation, and ob-
served a part which appeared more easy of access than any hitherto attempted. On his
arrival at Chamouny he was seized with a very severe indisposition, the effect of extreme
fatigue, and of the intense cold. Being attended by Dr. Paccard, a physician of the
place, James Balma communicated his observations ; and, in gratitude for his attendance,
offered to conduct him to the summit of Mont Blanc.
On the 7th of August these two daring adventurers sallied from Chamouny upon this
memorable expedition, and reached before dark the mountain La Cote, which overhangs
the upper part of the glacier of Bosson. Here they continued during the night ; and
at three in the morning pursued their route over the ice, ascended the Dome of Goute,
passed under the Middle Dome, and at the last pyramid of rock turned to the east, and
continued along the ridge, which is seen from Geneva, and lies on the left of the sum-
mit. Here they first began to experience such intense cold, and such extreme fatigue,
that Dr. Paccard was almost induced to relinquish the enterprise ; being, however, en-
couraged by James Balma, more accustomed to such dangerous expeditions, he follow-
ed his companion. The wind was so violent and piercing, that in order to avoid its blow*
ing in their faces, they were obliged to walk sideways for a considerable time. About
5 H 2
r88
COXE'S inAVJLL3 IN auriTZERLAND,
i
I
bix ill llic afternoon, they at knprth attainal the smnmit of Mont Blanc, nnd htvootl tn
umphaiitly on a spot of ground, which no one had reached before, and at the elevation
of 15,602 feet above the sea, which is undoubtedly the highest point in the ancient
world. They rem lined on the summit no more than half an hour, the cold beinj^ so
intenst, that the provision was frozen in their pockets, the ink congealed in ihtir ink
horns, and the mercury in Fahrenhtit'u lliermomeler sunk to 18^ degrees. Docitor
T'accard had just time to observe the state of tht; barometer, which Tic has not commu
iiiiated to tli.- public.
They employed liitecn hours in ascending ; and though they again reached the moun
tain of La Cote in five hours, found great difliculty in descending, their sight being de-
l)ilitated by tht rtfketion from the snow. They arrived at La Cote about midnight,
.ifler tuenty-fdiir hours unremitted fatigue. Having reposed themselves two hours,
they again sallied forth, and returned to Chamouny at eight in the morning. Their
faces were excoriated, and tlicir lips txceedin^Hy swelled ; Dr. Paccard was almost
blind, and his e) cs continued to be afiectcd for a considerable time.
We cannot expect any accurate experiments fnjm these two persons, to whom the
glory of first ascending the summit of Mont Blanc is undoubtedly due. But they pre-
pared the way for th- observations and discoveries of future naturalists, and particidarly
of Saussure, whose indcfatig-able zeal did not permit him to rest, ui\til he had reached the
top of Mont Blanc, and made those experiments which cannot fail greatly to elucidate
the theory of the atmosphere.
That able naturalist set out on this successful expedition, from the valley of Chamouny
on the 13th of August 1787. He was accompanied by eighteen guides, who carried a
tent, matrasses, all necessary accommodations, and instruments of exjxinmcntal philo-
sophy. They passed the first night on the top of the mountain of La Cote, in a hut
previously constructed for thai purpose. At four o'clock in the following afternoon
they reached an elevation of 9312 feet above the Priory, or 12,762 above the level of the
sea. Here they encamped, and formed an excavation in the congealed snow, which
they covered with a tent. In this icy habitation, instead of suffering from the cold,
Saussure felt such a suffocating heat, from the closeness of the tent, and the number of
persons crowded in a small compass, that he was frequently obliged to go into the open
uir in order to breathe.
The next morning the whole company departed at seven, and found the ascent in
some places so steep, that the guides were obliged to hew ^ut steps with a hatchet. At
eleven they reached the summit of Mont Blanc. Here they continued four hours and a
half, during which time Saussure enjoyed, with rapture and astonishment, a view the
most extensive as well as the most rugged and sublime in nature ; and made those ob-
servations which render this expedition no longer a mutter of mere curiosity. You will,
perhaps, not be displeased with the following particulars selected from a complete and
ample detail of those observations communicated to the public by Saussure in the fourth
volume of his Voyages dans les Alpes.*
He did not find the cold so extremely piercing as Dr. Paccard and James Balma.
By comparing his experiments on Mont Blanc with those made at the same time by M.
Senebier at Geneva, he was enabled to give the following observations. Reamur's ther-
mometer stood in the shade at 2^\ below freezing point, or 27 of Fahrenheit ; at Geneva,
• A translution of this account, by the Rev. Mr. Martyn, professor of botany in the university of
Cambridge, printed by Kcarsley, forms an Appendix to his Sketch of a Tour through Switzerland ;
which I would recommend to the traveller.
i Mtootl In
ic ckvatinii
the ancient
d Inin^ so
1 their ink
9. l)(n;tor
at conmiu
the nionn
t beinjij dc.
I midnight,
two hours,
ig. Their
A'as nhuost
Im
whom the
It they prc-
wrticularly
reached the
0 elucidate
Chamouii}
lo carried u
:ntal philo-
?, in a hut
J afternoon
level of the
ow, which
1 the cold,
number of
;o the open
i ascent in
Jtchet. At
lours and a
a view the
those ob-
You will,
nplete and
I the fourth
les Balma.
ime by M.
nur's ther-
at Geneva,
miversity of
witzerland ;
'*■
.,-K.»'
mm
V
X
X
>^.
5^
V
.N
N
jG 13 18^") )
I'l'
;■ ,
•
.1
1
1
> .'
I .
1..V
> "< '.
^:^f■
\4 • '»■ . '
■ a^ ^ •Mmmmmamt
J
AND IN TItK COUNTRY 0» lltK CmaONI.
rso
At 23, fi,or 82 of I'alircnhf It, wliiili givc^ a tlificmici* ofmar 25 dcj^reen of Rciuitniir,
ur 45 of Fahrcitlu-it, hclwccri the Mntcofchc ntmonplicre at l)oth nlaccv. l)i- Luc'hImi-
romctcr fell to lCi.O\Hl'i, "iid iin it htood at (nncva at i27.2|Ii^;!, it jifivrn a dilVcrcncc of
11. 2, without r^^ar(lt^g the fraction. On cMtimutitif; the hcifi^ht of Mont Hlunu from
barometrical cx|Krinictit«t, he found it almost exactly corrcstjmiid with that given by »ir
Gcorvc Shuckborough, or 15,662 Knglinh feet above the level of the bca, which reflects
high Tioiiour on the accuracy t>f the KngliHh observer.
By cxjK-rimcnt?* with the hygrometer, the air on the top of Mont Blanc contained six
times le»8 humidity than that of (lencva ; and to that extreme dryness oftheatinoHpherc
he imputes the burning thirst which he ind his companions experienced. It rccjuiren
half an hour to boil water on the top of Mont Hlanc, liltecn or sixteen minutes arc suf-
ficient at Geneva, and fourteen or fifteen by the sea-side. By experiments on the elec-
trometer, the balls diverged only three lines ; the electricity was positive. On the sum-
mit he noticed two butterflies on the wing; observed, at the elevation of 11, .392 feet
■Above the seu, the Silene Acaulis, or moss campion, in flower ; and still higher, on the
most elevated rocks, the Lichen Sulpluireus and Lichen Hupestris of Ilofl'man. The
summits of Mont Blanc, he adds, and the adjacent mountains, are composed of granite ;
and next to Mont Blanc, the Schreckhurn and Mount Uusa*** in Piedmont, appeared th(
most elevated points.
Saussure, as well as many of his party, found themselves extremely affected by the
rarefactiont of the air ; and at two began returning. They descended a little lower than
the place in which they passed the preceding night, arrivedthe next morning at the val-
ley of Chamouny without the least accident, and as they had taken the precaution to
wear veils of crape, their faces were not excoriated, nor their sight debilitated.
On the eighth of August, a few days after Saussure's expedition, Mr. Beaufoy, an
English gentleman, succeeded in a similar attempt, though it was attended with greater
difficulty, arising from the enlargement of the chasms in the ice. An account of this
expedition was read before the Royal Socitrty on the 13th of December 1787, and will
probably be communicated to the public.
* SauBKurc afterwurds incaHurcd the height of Monl Rohu, and fnimd itn clevutinn ubuvc tho %ei*^
J430 toibcit, which is only 50 French tut»cit or 320 feet lower thun Muiit Ulunc. V'oyii^e» danH h.s
Alpcs, torn. iv. p. 31'.).
t Some pcrsoiiBhuvc nttrlbutod the difficulty of respiration to falij^uc, and not the rat'cfuctiun of the
iiir; but SuUHsnve has fully disproved this opinion. The whole passage is so curious, that I Mill iu
sort the original words :
" Mills dc tous nos organes, cclui qui est Ir plus aflccte par la rai-etc dc I'air c'est celui de Iu res-
piration. On suit que pour tntrctenir la vie, sur tout cclle dcs animuux a sang chuud, il fuut qu'uni-
quantitt- dttcrmincc d'air traverse Icurs peumons dans un terns donne. Si done I'air qu'ils rcspirent
est Ic double plus rare, il fuudra que Icurs inspirations soient le double plus frequcntcs, afin que la
rarctti soit conipensee par Ic volume. C'est cette acceleration forcee de la respiration qui est la
cause dc la fatigue et des angoisscs que Ton cprouvc a ces grandes hauteurs. Car en meinc terns
que la respiration s'accelere, la circulation s'accelerc au&si. Je in'en suis souvent uppercu sur de
hautescimcs, niuis jc voulois enfairu unc cpreuve exacte surle Mont Ulanc ; ct pour que ['accelera-
tion du mouvcmentdu voyage ne put pas se confondrc avec celle de la rarcte de I'air, je ne fis mon
cpreuve qu'aprcs que nous fumes restcs tranquillcs, ou a peu prcs tranquilles pendant 4 heurs sur la
cime de la montagnt?. Alors Ic potils de Pierre Balmat sc trouva battre 68 pulsations par minute ;
cclui dc Tetu, mon domestique, 112, et le mien 100. A Chamouni, egalcment apres le repos, les
meuies, dans Ic niente ordre, battirent 49. 60. 72. Nous etions done tous la dans un etat de fievrc
qui cxpliquc,ct lasoifcjui nous tourmentoit, et notre aversion pour le vin, pour les liqueurs fortes, et
meme pour tout especc d'alimcnt. li n'y avoit c^ue I'eau fraichc qui fit dubicn ct du plaisir." Tom.'
iv. p. 207.
;<)u
ccxe's travels in switzerlanb,
LETTER XL.
Conjectures on the Formation and State of the Glacier^.
NO bubject in natural history is more curious than the origin of these glaciers, cx-
<cnding into fields of corn and pasture, and lying, without being n'plted, in a situation
where the sun is sufficiently powerful to bring vegetation to maturity : for it is almost li.
tcrally true, that with one hand I could touch ice, and the other ripe corn. As in my
first expedition to the Alps my stay was exceedingly short, I declined entering upon a
subject too important to be superficially treated, and only threw together a few hasty
remarks, which occurred to me on the spot. But I find that these remarks, however
hasty and superficial, served to excite your curiosity, and have induced you to inquire,
" Which is the most rational system concerning the formation of the glaciers? Are they
in a state of augmentation or diminution ; or do they remain within the same limits?"
Although in subsequent journeys to the Alps I made this subject a particular object
of research, and aUhough 1 attentively perused the principal systems concerning the for-
mation of glaciers, yet I do not, without great diffidence, presume to reply to your very
difficult questions.
The theory of Gruner, confirmed and amended by that able naturalist Saussure, ap-
pears the most simple and rational ; and I do not know how I can better satisfy your
curiosity, than by forming an extract from his much esteemed work,* interspersing it
with a few additional remarks drawn from my own particular observations.
If a person could be conveyed to buch an elevation as to embrace at one view the Alps
of Switzerland, Savoy, and Dauphinc, he would behold a vast chaos of mountains, in-
tersected by numerous vallies, and composed of many parallel chains, the highest occu-
pying the centre, and the others gradually diminishing in proportion to their distance.
The most elevated, or cent.ai chain, would appear bristled with pointed rocks, and
covered, even in summer, with ice and snow, in all parts not perpendicular. On each
side of this chain he would discover deep vallies clothed with verdure, peopled with nu-
merous villages, and watered by many rivers. In considering these objects with greater
attention, he would remark, that the central chain is composed of elevated peaks and di-
verging ridges, whose summits are overspread with snow; that the declivities of the
peaks and ridge s, excepting those parts that are extremely steep, are covered with snow
and ice, and that the intermediate depths and spaces between are filled with immense
fields of ice, terminating in th jsu cultivated vallies which border the great chain.
The branchesmostcontijjuous to fhe central chain would present the same phenome-
na, only in a lesser degree. At greater distances no ice would be observed, and scarcely
any snow, but upon some of the most elevated summits ; and the mountains diminishing
in height and ruggedness, would appear covered with herbage, and gradually sink into
hills and plains.
In this general survey, the glaciers may be divided into two sorts ; the first occupy-
ing the deep vallies situated in the bosom of the Alps, and termed by the natives Vallees
de Glace, but which I shall distinguish by the name of Lower Glaciers ; the second,
which clothe the summits and the sides of the mountains, I shall call Upper Glaciers.
1. The Lower Glaciers are by far the most considerable in extent and depth. Some
stretch several leagues ; that of des Bois in particular is more than fifteen miles long, 4nd
above three in its greatest breadth. ,;.-,,
* Voy.iges des Alpes, v. i. c. 7.
,»>i-.a-'
,J
AND IN THE COUNTRY OF THE UKIGONJ.
791
glaciers, cx-
n a situation
is almost li.
As in my
:ring upon a
a few hasty
ks, however
I to inquire,
s? Are they
e limits ?"
icular object
ning the for-
to your very
lussure, ap-
satisfy your
erspersing it
ew the Alps
untains, in-
ighest occu-
distance.
1 rocks, and
'. On each
ed with nu-
with greater
:aks and di-
ities of the
1 with snow
h immense
lain.
2 phenome^
ind scarcely
iiminishing
y sink into
rst occupy-
/es Vallees
:he second,
jrlaciers.
th. Some
slong, 4nd
The Lower Glaciers do not, as is generally imagined, communicate with eacli other;
and but few of them arc parallel to the central chain : they mostly stretch in a trans-
verse direction, are bordered at the higher extremity by inaccessible rocks, and on the
other extend into the cultivated vallies. The thickness of the ice varies in different
parts. Saussure found its general depth in the glacier des Bois from eighty to a hun-
dred feet ; but questions not the information of those who assert, that in some places
its thickness exceeds even six hundred feet.
These immense fields of ice usually rest on an inclined plane ; being puslied forwards
by the pressure of their own weight, and but weakly supported by the rugged rocks
beneath, are intersected by large transverse chasms, anf\ present the appearance of walls,
pyramids, and other fantastic shapes, observed at all heights and in all situations,
wherever the declivity exceeds thirty or forty degrees. But in those parts, where the
plane on which they rest is r'Tizontal, or gently inclined, the surface of the ice i»
nearly uniform ; the chasms au but few and narrow, and the traveller crosses on foot,
without much difficulty.
The surface of the ice is not so slippery as that of frozen ponds or rivers : it is rough
and granulated, and only dangerous to the passenger in steep descents. It is not trans-
parent, is extremely porous and full of small bubbles, which seldom exceed the size of
a pea, and consequently is not so compact as common ice ; its perfect resemblance to
the congelation of snow impregnated with water, in opacity, roughness, and in the
number andsmallness of the air- bubbles, led Saussure to conceive the following simple
and natural theory concerning the formation of the Glaciers.
An immense quantity of snow continually accumulates in the elevated vallies enclosed
within the Alps, as well from that which falls from the clouds during nine months in
the year, as from the masses incessantly rolling from the steep sides of the circumjacent
mountains. Parr of this snow, not dissolved during summer, impregnated with rain
and snow-water, is frozen during winter, and forms that opaque and porous ice of which
the Lower Glaciers are composed.
2. The Upper Glaciers may be subdivided into those which cover the summits, and
those which extend along the sides of the Alps.
Those which cover the summits owe their origin to the snow that falls at all seasons
of the >iar, and which remains nearly in its original state, being congealed into a hard
substance, and not converted into ice. For although, according to the opinion of
,some philosophers, the summit of Mont Blanc, and of other elevated mountains, is,
from the glistening of the surface, covered with pure ice, yet both theory and expe-
rience prove it to be snow. For in so elevated and cold a region, a sufficient quantit}
of snow cannot be melted to impregnate with water the whole mass, which remains un-
dissolved. Experience also justifies this reasoning. Saussure found the top of Mont
Btanc only 'encrusted with ice, which, though of a firm consistence, was yet penetrable
with a stick ; and on the declivities of the sunmiit he discovered, beneath the surface,
a soft snow without cohesion.
The substance wnich clothes the sides of the Alps is neither pure snow like that of
the summits, nor ice which forms the Lower Glaciers, but an assemblage of both. It
contains less snow than the summits, because the summer heat has more power to dis»
solve it, and because the liquefied snow descending from above^ the mass absorbs u
larger quantity of water. It contains more snow than the Lower Glaciers, because the
dissolution of the snow is comparatively less Hence the ice is even more porous,
opaque, less compact than that of the Lower Glaciers, and of so doubtful a texture a^
i
"92
COXE's travels in SWITZERLAND,
render3 it, in many ixirts, difficult to decide, whether it may be called ice or frozen
snow.
In a word, there is a regular gradation from the snow on the summits to the ice of
the Lower Glaciers, formed by the intermediate mixture which becomes more compact
and less porous in proportion as it apforches the Lower Glaciers, until it unites and
assimilates with them. And it is ev" nt, that the greater or lesser degree of density
is derived from the greater or lesser t^iantily of water, with which the mass is impreg-
nated.
In regard to your second question, "whether the glaciers are in a state of increase or
diminution," though I declined on a former occasion entering minutely upon a subject,
which required accurate research and exptrinK-ntal investigation, yet I ventured to make
one remark, which seemed to prove the occasional increase and diminution of the gla-
ciers, contrary to the opinion of some philosophers, who assert, that they remain al-
ways the same, and of others, that they are continually increasing.
The borders of the glacier of Montanvert are mostly skirted with trees : towards its
base a vast arch of ice rises near a hundred feet in height, under which the Arveron
rushes in a large body of water. As we approached the ice we passed through a wood
of firs : those trees which stand at a litile distance from the arch are about eighty feet
high, and undoubtedly of a very great age. Between these and the glacier, the trees
are of a later growth, as is evident from their texture and inferior size. Others, still
smaller have been overturned and enveloped by the ice : there seems to be a kind of
regular gradation in the age of these trees, from the largest which are standing to the
smallest that lie prostrate.
These facts justly lead to the following conclusions : the glacier once extended as far
a:, the row of tall firs ; upon its gradual dissolution, a number of trees shot up in the
very spots which it formerly occupied ; since that period, the ice has again advanced,
and has overturned the trees of later growth, before they had attained any considerable
lieighi. Large stones oi granite are usually found at a small distance from the extra*
mities of the glacier : they have certainly fallen from the mountains upon the ice, have
been carried on in its progress, and left on the plain upon the dissolution or sinking of
the icp which supported them. These stones, which the inhabitants call Moraine, from
a kind of border towards the foot of the valley of ice, have been pushed forward by
the advarce of the glacier, and extend even to the place occupied by the larger pines.
As several writers upon Switzerland have, in contradiction to these facts, endea>
voured to prove, that the snow and ice are continually accumulating in the Alps, I shall
add a few remarks, that may tend to confirm the contrary opinion.
In 1785 the Inferior Glacier of Gnndelwald was diminished at least four hundred
yards since 1776 ; in the valley of Chamouny, the Murailles de Glace, which I des-
cribed as forming the border of the Glacier of Bosson, no longer existed, and young
trees had shot up in the parts which were then covered by the glacier of Montauvirt.
The advocates for the increase of the glaciers, admit these facts, yet deny tliat any
judgment can be formed concerning the state of the more elevated regions, from what
passes in the vallies, where the sun has power to bring the fruits of the earth to matu-
rity. It appears, they assert, both from theory and fact, that more snow falls, and
more ice is annually formed in the Alps than can be annually dissolved. To judge from
theory ; they argue, that the cold occasioned by the mass of ice already formed ought
to augment it still further ; and in regard to experience, it is evident, that within the
memory oi the present generation, many mountains have been covered, many pastures
and habitations invaded, and many passages irrecoverably obstructed by the ice.
AND IN THH COl/NinV OF THE ORISONS.
79I>
: or frozen
the ice of
re compact
unites and
i of density
is impreg-
increase or
a subject,
ed to make
of the gla-
remain al-
towards its
he Arveron
igh a wood
eighty feet
r, the trees
Others, still
e a kind of
ding to the
:nded as far
t up in the
1 advanced,
onsiderable
I the extre.
le ice, have
sinking of
raine, from
forward by
er pines.
2ts, endea-
Ips, I shall
r hundred
lich I des.
and young
ntauvert.
ly t!:at any
from what
1 to matu-
falls, and
udge from
ned ought
within the
y pastures
:-e.
b
But in c6nsidering the arguments drawn from theory, we may observe that the causes
which tend to the diminution of the ice, are no less powerful than the augmentation ol
the cold, which is supposed to occasion its indefinite increase. These causes are princi-
pally, 1, rain and sleet In the less elevated regions ; 2, evaporation ; 3, descent of the
snow and ice, both precipitous and gradual ; 4, heat of the atmosphere ; 5, mean tem-
perature of the earth.
1. The rain and sleet, which fall during summer upon the Lower Glaciers, not only
thaw the ice, but increase the rills that collect on the surface, excavate channels, descend
into the clefts, and assist in forming or enlarging the chasms.
2. Evaporation is a still more powerful cause ; as it acts at all heights, and in all seasons.
3. The descent of the snow and ice, as it is distinguished by precipitous and gradual.
The avalanches, or precipitous fallings of congealed snow, are detached either by their
own weight, softened from their hold by the heat of the sun, the warm air which' blows
from the south, or overthrown by the violent hurricanes extremely common in the
upper Alps. When these masses are precipitated into a milder region, though they may
sometimes resist the influence of heat, and form vallies of ice, yet they are usually
dissolved. These avalanches are most common in the Up|)er Glaciers : whereas the
gradual descent of the ice is chiefly confined to the Lower Glaciers, and greatly con-
tributes to lessen the aggregate mass.
All the Lower Glaciers, or vallies of ice, rest on an inclined plane, are arched, and
undermined by the torrents, which are constantly flowing, as well from the Upper Gla-
ciers, as from their own interior surface. The natural tendency of a heavy body in such
a position is to descend, and the progressive motion is accelerated in proportion to its
weight, and the greater inclination of its base. This progressive motion, which acts,
though imperceptibly, yet gradually and uniformly, carries the ice into those cultivated
plains and vallies, where the sun ripens the fruits of the field ; and where a period is
put to its farther increase.
If you require a proof of this imperceptible descent, the answer is obvious. It is to
be collected from the facts which I have already enumerated, namely from the trees
which are occasionally overturned by the ice in its progress, and by the moraine of stones
at tlie bottom of the Lower Glaciers. These stones being similar to the mountains of
the upper Alps, and essentially different from the rocks below, must have been conveyed
by the ice in its descent from the Upper Glaciers.
4. The heat of the atmosphere, or the effect of the sun's rays on the outward surface
of the glaciers, is too evident to require any proof, even to those who have never been
in the Alps. Another cause of a thaw, occasioned by the heat of the atmosphere,
which will not be suspected by those who have not visited these icy regions, is derived
from the warm winds which blow by night as well as by day in the Upper no less
than in the Lower Glaciers. These warm winds are, during summer, so common in
these parts, that I never crossed a glacier without f jeling, in some particular positions,
a warmth similar to the air of a hot bath.
5. But as these two last causes only operate in summer, and the solar rays do not
produce sufficient effect in the highest parts, we must have recourse to the mean tempe-
rature of the earth, which seems to be the greatest and most pov/erful agent in prevent-
ing an indefinite augmentation of ice and snow. This mean temperature, termed by
some philosophers the internal * heat of the earth, is always above the freezing point,
* Some Philosophers impute thio constant thaw, which takes place in the lower surface of the gla-
ciers, to an internal source of heat in the turth ; but that opinion has been very ably refuted by several ino-
VOL. V. 5 I
704
f.fixt'% nwtti fM j:5.-fTZEat,A»n,
as is cvirlent from th« heat of lh<t ipring^ which mtif: from the boweU of the earth. In
winter, therefore, or m those high n^gions of the globe where the cold is usualhr beJow
the frftzing point, any spot of grotmrl coverrd with only a thia cnat of snow, may be
Ao far frif)U(], to a certain drptn, hy the influence of the external air, as not. to be ca-
frtiblc of dissolving any part of the superineumbf nt snow. But when the mn.'js of snow
IS of such a thickness as to protect the surface of the ground from tK effects of the at*
infisphcrical cold, the mean ternf>erature, which is always afyive the freezing point, will
f)€ .sufficient to melt the contiguous stratum of snow, and to occasion a cotviitant thaw,
wfiich supplies those currents of water that flow, at all sea.soi\s, Crcxn tlie Upper and
Lower Glaciers.
In regard to the argument df.Tivcd from CTcpcricTrcc, it n s ifficient to o'vierve, that
while I admit the facts which prove the progress of the ice, it by nr> means seems to
follow that its mass is p<n'])etually incrc-asing. For the advocates of thb opinion, whik
they scrupulously enumerate the places which have been invaded by the ice, do not take
any notice of thovj parts, no less numerous, from which the ice has receded.
During my second expedition into the Alps, I also made this point of controversy a
particular object of my research ; and on inquiring from the chasACurs and other persom
who frequent the mountains, the greater part were of opinion that the coUectJon of ice
and snow, even in the elevated regions, was by no means in a continual state of aug-
Tiicntation ; but that while it gained in some places, it diminished in others, and tfu'
iijv^ii an average, the aggregate quantity was nearly the same.
LETTER XLI.
Account of the Boucjuetln, or Mountain -Goat.
I OBSERVED, at Michael Paccard's, a guide of Chamouny, a head and horns of
the male bouquctin, or mountain-goat, and stuficd specimens of a female and a young
one.
As this animal is extremely rare, and inhabits the highest and almost inaccessible
mountains, the descriptions of it have been inaccurate and confused. But a new light
has been lately thrown on the subject by Dr. Girtanner of St. Gallen, and by >I. \ an
Berchem, secretary to the Society of Sciences at Lausanne ; and although these two
naturalists differ in some instances, yet their joint labours have assisted in ascertaining tbe
nature and economy of this curious animal. The following account of the bouquctin
is drawn principally from their observations in Rozier's Journal, and from additional infor-
mation obligingly communicated by M. Van Berchem.
The elder naturalists speak of the bouquctin as of an animal well known, and in
their time by no means uncommon on the high Alps of Switzerland, especial!) in the
canton of Glarus and in the country of the Grisons. On the town hall of GlwuSt
there is still a pair of horns of an extraordinar}- length, belonging to an animal of this
species, formerly killed in the canton. These horns are probablv the same which Raj
saw in the last centur}', when the natives informed luni, tliat the breed \%^as there extinct
That this animal was found among the Grisons, an|)ears from a letter in the posses-
sion of M. de Salis Sccrvis, dated tlie fourteenth of October 1574, in which the Arch-
dcrn naturulists; the mcun temperature of the ground being found sufficient to account for all th« phe-
nomena (local circumstances excepted) Mhich have been usually assigned tu an iotermJ beat m the
earth.
WD r» raa cotrsTaT or tee nitios
:^
duke Fcrdifunti of Auitru requires trcm his laailiff of Castel% in dve Prctijifiu. two
b#m/jactins : adding, that he had received -jevcril irotn his predecessors. About fortv
year^ at'^rr the date ot* shii letter tlie animai become rditt ; for a decree in the year l'3i;
pnohibin th*? clia.ri-: ot' the tuiuquetia under a fine of fifty crowr.i, and th.it of the cha-
mois from New Year's D-ij to Sf. John, under the penaity of ten crovvni. Sprechcr i:^
bia Pallaij Rhetica, published in 1617, relates that the cliace of the bouquetin was noi:
uncommon in hiA time, in tlie vailies of P.-e^ij-ullia, Vols, and L'pper En^idina. Anoche ;
iaiv of 16 3J. contirmefi in the foilouing year, inflicts corporal puniihmtnt on these who
kill 1 bcuq'ietin- But these severities could not preserve the bren:d ; and probably thi?
was the epoch of their d-istruction, when Li<e f*e"ir of their being ex:inct prompted go
vcmmcnt to forbid the chace.* h is certaii^ tliac within the tnenaory of the presen:
^ncration, no bcuquetii-.s liavc been fjund in x wild stare in the country of the Gri
These animals now inhabit that cliain which stretches from Dauphine tlirough Savoy
:o the confines of Italy, and principally on the Alps bordering on Mont Blanc, which is
the most elevated part. They haunt the volley of CiDniuyor to the south of Mont
Bfcanc, the heights between Mont BUnv: and the frontiers of the V'aiiais^ and the moun-
tains borderin-^ Val Savarenche ; but ai'e found more abuiidantly in the mountains of th*-.
valler of Cogne, and almost always frequent places which hare a southern aspect.
The several names by which the br}u<:jjUCtin Is known in diiicrent languages, are, in
Greek, by Homer and .Elian, Af *ysM.st Latin, Ibex; Italian, Capra Selvatica .
German and Swiss, Stelnbcch, or Rock-goat, the female. Etagne, or Ybschen and
Ybschgevss, perhaps from the Latin Ibtx; Flemirih, W'ildgheit ; French, Bouquetin.
incicntlv Bouc-estain, the German name ri; versed. Belon named it Hircus lerus,
Briaaon Hircus Ibex ; Lir.n^us, Capra Ibex ; Pennant, the Ibtx , Dr. Gi*tanner, Capra
Alpina- I have adopted the name of bouqaetin, because it is the provincial appellation
of the animal in tlie Atps.
The systematic natLruiists aerce in taking :hc specific charjcter of the bouquetin firom
the beard, and the horns, which they describe as knobbed along the upper or anterior
surfiice, axid reclining towards the bi^.k.
The male bocquetin, though larger, mtich resembles the tame goat. The bead is
sanoQ in proportion to the body, with the muzrie thick, compressed, and a littk arched ,
:he eyes are large, rocnd, and have much fire and brilliancy. The horns large when
of aftiU size weighing sometimes 16 or 13 pounds, Satttd btfore and nxinded behind.
with esse wtwo icngttudinal and many transverse ridges, which degenerate cowards the
tip into kncfas ; the colour dusky brown. The beard ioog, tawny, or dusky ; the legs
siender, wi^h zhc hcofe short, hollow on the inside, and on the ont^de terminated by a
satKiK bcrcier- tike those of the chamois. Tbc body short, thick, and strong. The
sail short, iiiaked tmderneath, the re^ covered with long hairs, white at the base and
black above and .n the end ; space under the toil in some nwny, in odiers white.
• Franrisfus Nii^er. m. hLi descripdon of tlieGriiioaH.qtio«db7CcQndGeaner. iajs-rJiut tiicj spare
•>d» itniBui in hununj. b<«:au.i« h U the unraorul beannij «ifdie O'^mtrv
" Pd/iLitur hit Ciipi'kornc "uimen abt, Panos imice,
.\rmii <\ruid esorxs, « polchn Ln:4i,5Tib, !?«bi«,
Hinc loayam hinc «itam vive ■ .r r. ado. juctxj
f Mmt. natu rAiMt afirm tlut H«His.«r cjJut dim laiwui A*i .^*aw. vbereae be ".rjit* ^t a> f ry^ •>. 'ir
I 2
796
COXB'8 TRAVELS IN SV/I1'Z£RL AND,
h
The coat long, but not pendant, ash-coloured, mixed with some hoary hairs : a black
list runs along the back, and there is a black spot above and below the knees. The co-
lour, however, like that of all other animals, varies according to its age and local cir*
cumstances.
The female has been little noticed among naturalists. She is one-third less than the
male, and not so corpulent ; her colour less tawny ; her horns small, and not above eight
inches long; she has two teats, like the tame she-goat, and never any beard, unless, per-
haps, in an advanced age. The young ones are of a dirty gray colour, and the list along
the back is scarcely discernible. The female shews much attachment to her young, and
even defends it against eagles, wolves, and other enemies ; she takes refuge in some ca-
vern, and presenting her head at the entrance of the hole, thus opposes the enemy.
From a stufflcl specimen of the male bouqueiin in Parkinson's, late sir Ashton Le-
ver's Museum, I have given some of the principal dimensions, as they arc not to be found
in any author that has fallen under my observation, except in Buffon's Histoire Natu-
relle ; and those were taken by Daubenton from a young subject.
J
Length of the head from the lower ja\v to the space between the horns
Length from the root of the horns to the base or origin of the tail
Height at the shoulder before .....
Height at the shoulder behind .....
Circumference of the body next to the fore legs
Circumference next the hind legs ....
Circumference in the middle .....
Circumference of the neck, close to the shoulders -
between the ears and the horns
The horns being so remarkable a part of this animal, I shall add the measurement^
not only of those belonging to Mr. Parkinson, but of four others, which are deposited in
the British Museum. Those in the second and third columns certainly belong to the
bouquetin of the Alps ; their colour is a dusky brown ; the first of these is very flat be-
fore, the second not so flat ; neither the longitudinal or transverse ridges are strongly
marked ; these are evidently the horns of a very old animal. The horns in the fourth
column belong also to the bouquetin, but probably from some other country. Their
Colour is black ; they are much flatter on the sides, and narrower before than the others,
the longitudinal ridge is very strongly marked, and the transverse ridges stronger and
more numerous. I cannot observe more than one * longitudinal ridge in any of the horns
which 1 have examined, the exterior part of the front being imiversally rounded olF,
and the transverse ridges running very little into the sides. The horns in the fifth
column being unquestionably to the il'.gagrus of Pallas, which is not improbably a va-
riety of the bouquetin. Two fine pairs of these horns were given to the Museum by
the late duke of Northumberland. They have no anterior flat face, but a sharp ridge,
with a few knobs in front, about nine in number, and very distant from each other;
they are streaked transversely, more evidently towards the end ; their extremities are
* Most naturalists affirm, that the horns are marked with two longitudinal ridges ; all those that have
fallen under my oljscrvation have only one interior lonKitudinal ridge, and a laint mark on the «jite-
rior edge, which is probably taken for the second longitudinal lidge.
Feet.
Inched
0
9i
4
4
2
5i
2
74
3
6
2
2
3
8
2
^
. I
4
AND IN THE COUNTAV OF THE CRIS0N3.
797
a black
The co-
ld local cir.
|ss than the
ibove eight
inless, pcr-
k list along
'oiing, and
\n some ca-
'my.
^shtoii Le-
jo be found
loire Natu-
ct. Inches
0 9i
' 4
5i
74
6
2
8
4
8urernent»
Jositid in
"g to tlie
y flat be-
strongly
^e fourth
Their
e others,
iger and
he horns
ided off,
he fifth
>ly a va-
mm by
r> ridge,
other;
ties are
hat have
le exte*
much arched, with the points turning inwards. The colour is the same with those of
the Alpine bouquetins.
Dimensions of the Horns in Parkinson's, late Sir Ashton Lever's, Museum (No. 1.)
and in the British Museum.
Rectilinear direction, or chord, from the root to the tip
Arc, or Icngtii measured along the curvature
Circumference at the base - ^ • •
Distance between them ut the base
Distance between them ut the tipH • . .
Number of transverse ridges
N». I.
Ft. In
2 li
2 8
0 9J
0 Oi
1 9|
24
N»2.
Ft. In
1 9
8
I
2
12
NO 3.
Ft. In,
3 0
3 6
0 lOJ
20
TT^TT
Ft. In.
"\
3 0
0 9
24
TFT
Ft.
In
1
6
1
4
3
9
4
2
0
9
0
0
It is a common notion of the hunters, adopted by many naturalists, that the age of a
bouquetin may be estimated by the number of transverse ridges or knobs in the horns.
M. Van Berchem, however assures me, from his own observations, that this is a vulgar
error, and that the age can only be ascertained by the number and form of the teeth, as
in sheep and goats. The bouquetin increases in bulk to the age of four years ; accord<
ing, therefore, to the system ofBufFon, that the age is about seven times the growth, it
lives about twenty •eight or thirty years.
In a state of tranquillity the bouquetin commonly carries the head low ; but in run-
ning holds it high, and even bends it a little forward. He mounts a perpendicular rock
of fifteen feet at three bounds of five feet each, and does not appear to find any footing
on the rock, but touches it merely to be repelled, like an elastic substance striking against
a hard body ; he is not supposed to take more than three successive leaps in this man-
ner. If he is between two rocks near each other, and wants to reach the top, he leaps
from one side of one rock to the other alternately, till he has attained the summit. He
also traverses the glaciers with rapidity, but only when pursued, for otherwise he avoids
them.
The bouquetins feed, during the night, in the highest woods ; but the sun no sooner
gilds the summits, than they quit the woody region, and mount, feeding in their progress,
till they have reached the most considerable heights. They betake themselves to the
sides of the m.ountains which face the east or south, and lie down in the highest places
and hottest exposures ; but when the sun has finished more than three quarters of its
course, they again begin to feed, and to descend towards the woods, whither they retire
when it is likely to snow, aad where they always pass the winter. The bouquetins
assemble in flocks, consisting at most of ten, twelve, or fifteen, but usually in smaller
numbers. The males of six years old and upwards haunt more elevated places than the
females and younger bouquetins, and as they advance in age are less fond of society ;
they become gradually hardened against the effects of extreme cold, and frequently live
entirely alone.
In summer they feed principally on the genipi and other aromatic plants which grow
in the high Alps ; in winter they eat the lichens, and browse on bushes and the tender
shoots of trees. They prefer those spots where the dwarf birch and alpine willow?».
_-»:»•
:pb
COXE's XnAVELS IN OWITZERLAND,
grow, and where rhododcnilron, thalictrum, and saxifrages abound. The boiiquctinH
having their fore legs somewhat shorter than the hind legs, naturally ascend with greater
facility than they descend ; for this reason nothing but the severest weather can force
them into the lower regions, and even in winter, if there are a few fine days, they leave the
woods and mount higher.
Winter is the season of love with them, and principally the month of January. The
females are with young five months, and consequently produce in the last week of June,
or the first of July. At the time of parturition they separate from the males, retire to the
side of some rill, and generally bring forth only one, though some naturalists affirm that
they occasionally produce two. The common cry of the bouquetin is a short sharp
whistle, lit u' 'ike that of the chamois, but of less continuance : sometimes it makes a
snort, an(' voung bleats.
The sc\ r hunting the bouquetin is towards the end of summer, and in autumn,
during the mumhs of August and September, when thcv are usually in good condition.
None Ijut mountaineers engage in the chace ; for it a'cjuires not only a head that can look
do\<'n from the greatest heights without terror, and sure- footcdness in the most difficult
and. dangerous passes, but also much strength and vigour, to support hunger, cold, and
fatigue. The most determined hunters of bouquetins inhabit the mountains of the
Lower Vallais, particularly the natives of Servan, a village in a wild and picturesque
situation, betv.rcen Valorsine and Martigny ; and the bouquetins being extinct in their
mountains, they hunt in those of the valley of Aost, with the permission of the inhabi-
tants.
Two or three hunters usually associate in this perilous occupation ; thay are armed
with rifle-guns, and furnished with small bags of provisions ; they pass the night among
rocks at considerable heights, erect a miserable hut of turf, where they lie without fire or
covering, and on waking not unfrequently find the entrance blocked up with snow three
or four feet in depth. Sometimes being overtaken by darkness amid crags and preci-
pices, they are obliged to pass the whole night standing, embraced in order to support
each other, and to prevent themselves from sleeping. As the bouquetins ascend into
the higher regions early in the morning, it is necessary to gain the heights before them,
otherwise they scent the hunter, and betuke themselves to flight : it would then be in
vain to follow them ; for when once they escape, they never stop till they think them-
selves entirely out of danger, and will even sometimes run ten or twelve leagues.
When a bouquetin is shot, the hunters let it cool upon the spot, and then embowel it,
putting the blood into one of the entrails, which is esteemed by the peasants a sovereign
remedy in pleurisies and some other disorders. A large bouquetin thus embowelled
will weigh 180 or 200 pounds ; a female from 70 to 80.
Some naturalists affirm, that the diminution of the race of bouquetins in the Alps is
owing to his size, the monstrous length and weight of the horns, which impede him in
his course ; because he is driven into places where he can scarcely procure sufficient
nourishment during great part of the year, where his sight becomes debilitated, and is
frequently lost by the strong reflection of the sun from the ice and snow. They con-
sider this animal rather as a native of the subalpine regions, which are covered during
summer with the finest herbage, and where the bouquetins and chamois probably pas-
tured in tranquillity, when only the lower vallies and plains were inhabited.
According to the opinion of others, the bouquetin is endued with strength propor-
tionate to his size ; though inferior to the chamois in liveliness and agility, yet he is by
no means deficient in activity ; his horns, though large and weighty, yet from their
reclined position do not seem an impediment, but rather render him an essential service
AND IN lilt COVNTHY 01 tilt OKISUNS.
'i9V
IbouquetiiH
Vith greater
|r can force
)y leave the
iTy. The
jk of June,
etirc to the
jaffirm that
I'lort sharp
|it makes a
autumn,
I condition.
jit can look
Jst difficult
cold, and
ns of the
cturesque
ct in their
le inhabi.
ire armed
ht among
3ut fire or
now three
nd preci-
0 support
cend into
)re them,
len be in
ik them-
s.
bowel it,
overeign
Jowelled
AJps is
him in
efficient
, and is
ey con-
during
ly pas-
»ropor-
2 is by
1 their
icrvice
when he liapptiiH to fall, or purposely throws himself down precipices to avoid his pur-
sucrs. His natiirul food is rather lichens than herbs ; he is particularly fund of the
young shoots of trees and shrubs ; and in all the places where he inhabits, is found in
the coldest and rudest mountains, und on the steepest rocks. From these circumstances
it is not improb;J)!L that hi^ present situation and manner of life is an cflTcct of nature
rather than of nen •*sity ; and to account for the present scarcity of the bouquclin, wc
need only consider ihe number of its enemies, in men, beasts, and birds of prey.
Even should the bouquetin be no longer found in his native Alps, sttil the race could
not be considered as extinct, but as having migrated into a milder climate, and, with a
state of domestication and more succulent food, acquired softer manners, a form Icsfv
rude, smaller and smoother horns. Fur it is not improbable that the bouquetin of the
Alps, the hircus iirus or bouc-cstain of Belon, the Siberian ibex, and n*gagruH, both
accurately describctl by Pallas,^ and the tame goat in all its difl'erent forms, ure onl}
varieties of the same s))eeies. 'I'hty are found to couple freely with each other, arc
asserted to produce an oflspring which is fertile, and all have a beard, which seems to
be the characteristic of this genus. The circumstance in which they differ, such as the
size, coat, and shape: of the horns, cannot be esteemed sp <ific distinctions, and may be
accounted for from a change of climate, situation, and food.
The greatest dim rencc undoubtedly consists in the horns ; none perhaps, except the
bojquetm, having a longitudinal ridge, and some being even without the transverse
ridges. But this variation is less perceptible, in comparing the bouquetin with the Si.
benan ibex, the ibex with the aegagrus, and the aegagrus with the tame goat ; for the
horns of the Alpine I'ouquetin are not so much weightier, longer, and larger, than those
of the ibex and acgaL^rus, as to form a certain specific distinction.!
. But even should this difference be still greater, it can never be admitted aft forming a
specific distinction ; for the horns not only vary in individuals of the same species, but
in the same individ aIs at different ages ; and if we attempt to arrange animals solely b}
their horns, the dis<;riminations will be as endless as uncertain. But should the Alpine
bouquetin and the other species of tlir /^rtaf genus be excepted from this general assertion,
we have only to add, that the horns of flit /< intilr bouquetin are like those of the tame
goat, and that M. Van Berchem possesses llit: hi/ ms of a young one, produced from the
union of the bouqiitjtin and she-goat, that are exuetiy ,'iimilur to the horns of the a:ga
grus, which, according to Pallas, resemble those nf the tame goat. Climate and nutri
ment have a grc;jt effect upon the horns of (iiii»MH)s } h is no wonder, therefore, if a long
servitude, an inactive life, a change from ilii iiM(OJ'»M/' ulanls nnd pure air of the mouri-
moisferatmosph* //; «l///i/ld diminish the hor
shape, subdue the longitudinal riUgt, /(fid convert liu jiiiobs into wrinkles.
tains to a gross nutriment and moists r atmospht
(] diminish the horns, alter their
•Perhaps also the capra caucasica, dcst / ill/ (| Ut f iilhis, fr«fr) li |::i|n i . :j nii|denstacdt,and whitli
represents as differing fiom the sgagnis, w/llj i onfi/i/ 'n d i/y some nuttirullsls
he
See Act. Petr. for MJ'J.
tThe horns of the bouquetin soinetimcft weigh sixlecn i
and have twenty-four transverse ridges. A siiitt^f ' ' '
eight Russian pounds, whicj) is one-tenth less tMuiJ
verse ridges. The horns of another full-grown Sibe >
the curvature, and 1 foot 2 inches and 1 line in » rectUii,. ,,,
Aured 2 feet 2 inches and 9 lines alu/ig tiie ( i|rvatui<;, aiid 1 foot 4 inches in a linear direction The
horns of a full-grown Caucasan goat were 2 feel 4 inthcs ilong the curvature, and I foot 6 niches in
the linear direction. The longitudinal ridge or ridg<» remain then as the only specific difference be-
tween the horns of the Alpine bouquctim! and those of the other species. See the npteasurements in
Pallas Spic. Zool, and in his Descripuon of the Capra Caucasica, in Act, Petr. for 177'.'.
I j, t n pounds, are three feet in length,
hcnan iltex weighed, according to Pulias,
pound, and had sixteen or eighteen tranS]
nitasured 2 feet 5 inches and 5 lines along
iiiction. The horns of an aegagrus nica-
-■ im
HOQ
COXI*fl TRAVELS IN SWITZERLAND,
Bufl'on extends the goat geiius. still further, and comprehends under it even the cha<
uiois ; conjecturing that the houquctin is the male in the original race of gouts, and
the chamois the female. But there docs not seem the least foundation for this notion ;
the chamois being an animal totally di:>tinct from the goat, never coupling with them,
and judiciously classed by Pulfns and Pcnnaiu in the (|^nus of antelopes. The conjecture
of liuflbn, however, that the hou(iuetiti is the original source of the tame goat scemi
well-founded, and has been adopted by most succeeding naturalists. And, us according
to the just observations of Pallas, the acgagrus approaches nearer ttian the bouquetin to
the tame goat in its form and horns, the asgagrus may be the link which connects the
bouquetin and tiic tame goat. May not the atgaj^rua be considered as a race produced
from the bouquetin and she-goat, or the goat and female bouquetin? PuUus also con.
jcciurcs that the tame goat may have been propagated from the legagrus and Siberian
ibex, which is allowed by most naturalists to be the same as the bou(iuetin ; and Pennant
remarks, with no less sagacity, that the tame goats may be derived from both, as we arc
assured that the ibex and she-goat will produce a similar offspring. It is likewise pro*
buble that the bouquetin is the origin of all the goat genus, because it is the lorgest,
strongest, and dwells in the most inhospitable regions. For, according to the observa-
tions of the great zoologist,**^ those animals who are natives of the coldest mountains
must, on descending into the warm plains, be liable to greater changes than those who
are formed for milder climates ; and this circumstance seems sulAcient to account for
the great variety observable in the gout genus.
Some naturalists pretend that the bouquetin cannot be the original stock from whence
the goats have been produced, because, as he inhabits the loftiest summits covered with
eternal snow, and feeds only on plants peculiar to high regions, he cannot be domes*
ticated in a variety of climates ; but this opinion is contradicted by fact and experience.
Stumpf, the historian of Switzerland, informs us, that the Vallaisans near Sion bred
tame boucjuetins with their goats ; and Bclon relates, that the Cretans tamed the ^oung
bouc-estains by suckling them with goats. Pallas also frequently observed the Siberian
ibex among the tame goats, and mentions one in particular at Orenburg, which w^s
leader of a flock, and father of a numerous oflfspring more resembling the females than
himself ; it was very different from the tame he goats, and scarcely inferior in size to a
bouquetin two years old ; in colour and strength he resembled the wild animal, had
thick horns, knobbed, not kneeled above, and a long rough coat, but no where pendent,
except in the heard ; the black list on the back was almost obliterated. LasUy, M. Van,
Berchem saw several tame bouquetins at Aigle ; they were gentle and familiar, and,
without being remarkably lively, were active and graceful in all their motions ; they
bred with different she-goats^ and the young ones seemed to form a new race.
Should these observations be well founded, the goat genus, or race of the bouquetin,
is found in a wild state along the chain of mountams that traverser the temperate parts
both of Europe and Asia ; on the Alps, Pyrenees, and Carpathian mountains ; on the
Taurus and Caucasus ; on the mountains of Siberia and Tartary ; in Kamtchatka ; on
the islands of the Archipelago ; in Hedsjseas in Arabia ; in India ; perhaps in Egypt
and Lybia.
*PaUM. -t
\NI) IN THE COUNTRY OT THE CIIISONS.
801
i.?:TTKn XLii.
Jounieij to iienrua..„Pays de P'amL...lMuxanhe.... Felix the F{ff/i,..J'iTai/.,„'J'oin6
and character qf General J.udlow..,.Ctarens.„.Meillerie.
QUITTING the delightful vale of Chamauny and its magnificent isccncry, \vc con
tinucd our route towards Geneva. As we piocccded the height of the mountuins gra-
dually diminished, and the vaElics through which wc passed were ngreeably divcrsiltcd
in their forms and productions. We follov/td the course of the sonorous and violent
Arve ; near Salcnuhe i>usscdon our right hand a small but picturesque lake, skirted with
wood, and from hence descended into the plain, which continues almost perfectly level
to Geneva. Salenchc lies at i\\c bottom of a broad valley, which here contracts to u
narrow pass. According to tradition, this little plain was once a lake ; and indeed its
form, and the quality of the soil, seem to justify tradition : great part is laid waste by
the unruly Arve, which frequently overflows its banks, and the rest is mostly covered
with fruit-trees.
Not far from Ma^land we stopjicd to admire a beautiful fall of water, called the cas
cade of Arpenas, which rushes, like the stubbach, trom an impending rock. When I
saw it there was a considerable wirvd, which drove the torrent at least an hundred yards
out of the perpendicular dircctioUj into almost im|',erceptiblc ^pray ; I then behold it
trickling down the sides of the mountains in a thousand little streams, which united at a
ridge, and from thence formed three cascades ; the body of water was much more con-
siderable"^ than that of the Stubbach ; and the fall api)eared to me altogether as' high.
Between Magland and Cluse we took a guide to conduct us to the cave of la Ralme.
The ascent, though not long, was so sleep that we were nearly an hour in reaching it ;
we then scrambled along a precipice, from which we mounted a ladder, and by the aid
of the branches f ' a nut-tree growing from the rock, pulled ourselves into a natural
cavern more thai; quarter '^^ a mile in Icfigth, and forming various branches that led
into lofty vaults anu spacious jpcnings, the sight of which did not answer the trouble
wtiuired tocnter it.
We passed the night at Close which is situa^'ed by the side of the Arve, and the next
morning came down the banks ot that river to Bonneville, the capital of Faucigny : it
stands also upon the Arve, at the bottom of a chain of rocks, which from this place di-
minish into hills. All this part of Fauci^ny, as also a small strip of Chablais through
which we passed, i^ a rich plain^ producing wine and corn in great plenty, but neither
populous nor well cultivated. By the little villaee of Chcne we entered the territory of
Geneva, and were much pleased with the sudden change from the poverty of the Sa-
voyards to the neatness and ease of the Genevans ; .ve admired the populousness of the
country, the richness of cultivation, and the number of country-seats scattered about the
fieM:
i\8 \ (iopose re- visiting Geneva, in my way to the !>outh of France, I will defer my
accc!it ^f that interesting town until my return.
W e '■ cnt from Geneva to Crassi, a small village in the Pays de Vau where we passed
a day with an English gentleman, who has taken a house for the summer in that delight-
ful spot. In our way we passed through Versoi, a little village in the F '-cnch territories,
* It may be ncccs&ary to apprise the traveller, that in dry aitmmers this cascud' is sometimes a],
most tlcstitute of water, lest, seeing it under that circumstance, he should conceive the dcsr.riptioii
in tlie text to be too much exaggerated.
VOL. V. a K
I
ll.
603
COXi'l TRAVILI IS SV/trZKRlANN,
upon the lake of Geneva, which bean ihe name of Choincul's Folly. Geneva having
fallen under the displcaaure of France, that minister availing himself of the troubles in
176R, laid a plan to build a new town, and monopolise the whole trade of the lake.
Accordingly he fixed upon Versoi asthr most proper situation, formed a pier, made a
harbour, constructed a frigate, marked out the streets, sent a considerable (|uaiitity of
stone to build houses, and stationed a garrison in temnorary huts. Hut when the har
boiir was nearly fmished, and he had expended about 125,0001. the scheme wa»
rc!in(|uishcd.
The roud from Geneva to Lausanne nujs through the Pays de Vaud, a region of
which historians and travellers speak with rapture ; particularly of that part whicn bor-
ders upon the lake of Geneva. It is almost the whole way a gradual ascent from the
edge of the lake, richly laid out in vineyards, corn fields, and luxuriant meadows, and
chc(]uered with continued hamlets, villages, and towns; the shores are generally of the
cleanest gravel, and the water of the finest Uiinsparency.
We passed through Nyon, delightfully seated upon the edge of the hike. It was for-
merly culled Colonia Kcpiestris Noiodunum ; and, as a proof of its antiquity, Roman in-
scriptions and other ancient remains have been fretpiently discovered in the out-
skirts of the town. In this part the lake forms a beautiful curve, happily alluded to by
Lucan, where he mentions the army of Julius Ciesar striking their tents, which were
posted on the borders :
Dcscriicro cavo tcntoriu fixu Lcnumo.*
All the possessions in this country formerly belonging to the duke of Savoy were
conquered by the canton of Bern in 153G, and in the same year the reformation was
introduced. From tliut period all the Pays dc Vaud, excepting the common bailliages
of Grcr.son, Orbe, and a small portion of it which was.ccdedto Friburgh, has been sub-
ject tc Bern, and makes part of that canton.
Moi,n:es, situated at the extremity of a beautiful bay, is the neatest town in these parts.
The environs are extremely pleasant ; the banks of the lake form an amphitheatre
gendy risi:^g to the Jura, and Mont Blunc presents itself through un immense opening
in the opposite chain of rocks, which seemed to have been formed by nature in order to
exhibit u sublime pcrspecilt'e of that beautiful mountain. Near the town is the lime-tree
twenty.four feet tnrce inches in circumference, witli branches of magnificent extent ; it
has a companion about three feet less in girth. Mr. Pennant informs me, that ♦• this
tree is a native of Switzerland, and of many other parts of the continent ; that it was
imported into England before the year 1652 ; one being described by Dr. William
Turner as growing in a park near Colchester; that one thirty-six feet in circumference
grew near the great church at Bern ; it was planted about the year 1410 ; and the
hollow trunk, still putting forth leaves, remained in the year 1702.t The Germans,
in old times, planted the lime before their churches and in the market- places, on account
of its grateful shade. This tree is now neglected ; yet the Romans esteemed it so highlv
as to say that it was employed for a thousand purposes ; tiliae ad millc usus pctendae. A
• " They strike their tents and quit the hollow l)ctid
" Of Lcmun'a lake."
t A lurgc lime is to be seen on the heights above Villars, a seat belonging to M. Graflenrcid of
Ikni, near Morat ; its girth measures at least thirty-six feet in circumference, and its height is not
less than ninety feet ; it is very ancient, as it was lopped in 1550, for the sake of ihc bark. The
traveller who visits this tree will be no less gratified with an extensive prospect, commanding the
lakes of Morat, Neuchatel, and Bicnne, and that stupendous chain of snowy Alps, which is repre-
sented ou the engraving inserted in this vuiumu.
II.
m having
"uublcii in
the iukc.
r, made a
uaiitity of
I the har
ictnc was
rctfion ol'
hicn bor-
Irom the
lowH, and
Ily of the
: was for-
lonian in*
the out-
dccl to by
lich were
voy were
itioi^ was
bailliagcs
:jccn sub-
csc parts.
>hitheatre
opening
X order to
limt'tree
xtent; it
lat " ihis
lat it was
William
mference
and the
ircrmans,
I account
>o highly
idae. A
renrcid of
ght is not
rk. The
iding the
is repre-
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Microfiche
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Collection de
microfiches.
CiiniKli.if) Instituti' for Hislom cti Mk roreijrociiictions lustitfit i aiuxlifn dt; iniirotepriKUictions historiques
AXr. \S lUE liOUNlKV 01 IKE MilJONli
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.-.ucci jnici.- i.KiKki (I'om the Icavc.i and hark, from wliicli the Tolcs ixirat i a hour \
called hy tliem Mepix. • Bees are also IoikI of the flowers ; and \'irt;-il, in hi.-. l)CiiUi".
i'ul description ol" th( iudiistrious Corycian, places the lime and the i)ine in tlic iieit^li
bourhood ol his hives."
Lausanne contains about seven thousand inhabitants; it is built upon an ascent so
steep, that in some places the horses caiuiot, withoui ijreat dilliculty, dra\v up ;i car
riai^e, and l'oot-passen.c,ers ascend to the upper part oi" the town by'steps. Hut these
incouveniences are amply compensated by the sublimest views in nature, commanding-
the lake ol' (lencva, the Pays de V'aud, and the rtit^^ged coast of Chablais.t
The same year in v.hich part of the Pays de Vaud was con(|iiered from the house ol
Savoy, the bishop of Lausaime retired from the town, and the inhabitants |)ut thcmselve>
under the protection and sovereignty of the canton of Bern, whicii connrmed and aug-
mented then- privileges. At present Lausanne is goveiiied by its own magistrates, has
its own courts of justice, and, what is very singular, the burghers who possess houses in
the principal street enjoy the riglit of pronouncing sentence in criminal causes. Tho
criminal is tried by the civil power: if he is found, and acknowledges himself guilty,
one of the magistrates pleads in defence of the prisoner, and another' against him ; the
court of justice give their opinion ii])on die point of law, and tiie majority of the
burghers possessing houses in the principal street determine tlie penalty. If the punish-
ment Is capital, there is, according to the letter of tiie law, no pardoii, unless obtained
• coj^c l\' pi'cssis
Milla fiuis; illi tiliii, uUiiic uhcri'iina piiuis.
r 111 llu' l"ir:^l iiiulsi'ioiid rd'uionsol" this witrk.llic ii tliToii tin; Pays dc Vain! coiitaiiu'd tl\is passas^c :
•»Tlir wtiolc Fuysdi- Vaud is huh h less ptoplitl iluiii il was diiriii'!,^ tin: last (cntiiiy. 'I'liis dcpopiila-
lioii is owiiiL;- to tlic iiK-nasi' of lusuiy, wliicli prc\<iils tin- i;i-iitry IVoui Ciiliriia; into iiiatrimonial uii-
i^a^tiiu-iils so i^nnTally as thry were luntolorf actiistoiiK(i, and induces iiuiiiln'rs ol'ilicni rontiiiual-
ly to fniinratc in order to in;^a;j;c in r(/riii;ri serv icts. For alllionij,!! tiio i!j"vcniniiiit nl' Hern isrcr-
tainly viiy mild, and nivcr lays on any udtiilional ta\ts, nor <vtr cik roaches upon tlic piivilei;-es of
thcii- sul)|ecls, yet as the i;entiy arc totally excluded IVoni any share in the administration of public al-
fairs, and commerce is reckoned dei^radin.u;, they have no other resource hut loreii^n services. Tor
this reason many ol them are malcontents, and would gladly excluua;e thr mild rc|)ublicau form unde;-
w liich they now Um' for a monurchical mode of government."
The (iuiissionor this passage in the enlarged edition occasioned a (ensure froiu some Swiss tourist.
I'S il' I had expiini^ed this ])assa(',e in compliance with the representations of some ari:,toci'at of Hern.
I deem it, tlieri'fore, necessary to slate my reasons loi- tiiis omission.
In my first cursory tour throui^Hi the Pays dc \'uud, I principidly freciiuiiK d ilie iiolilliiy and !';cnii\,
tr(Mu whom I luard repeated (omplainls of the oppressions under which lliey i^rouned, un'd p..rtiVular-
ly of tluir exclusion from all sliare in the j^overnmcm. liut in my suhseciue'ni tours I had an opportu-
nity to exumim- the condition of the peasants, and to learn their .sentiments on the nature of the govern-
ment; and I found that, i xceptini^- in the lari,^- towns and umont,^ the L^entry and opuleiii citizens, t]i<'
;<reat majority of the natives were fully satisfied with their condition, and deprecated all innovation.
For this reason I omitted the iiassa^^'c in the later editions, because the happintss of a country cannol
be estimated from the situation of the i^intry, and u few opulent i iiizens alone, i)tit from the c;-eneral
welfare of the collective body of the pcoplir. liven in tlie late revolution of Switzerland, which took
its rise in the Pays de \'aud, where the grievances wire exai.'::.;- crated \>\ some factious leadcM's, and
fomented by the agents of France, the number of the disatlected was exceedingly bmall ; and had the
government of IJern opposed the imqiiion of the French by arms, and not deprecated it by negolia-
-.1011, the great majority of the natives would have Hocked to'their standard. A small minority, assist-
■ d by France, overcame the majority ; and those w ho Hr^ ' introduced the French were soon n'lore dis-
satisfied with their proceedings, than those by whom they w« le most earnestly opposed. When the;
tree of liberty was planted at Vverdum, even the adherents of I'ranee exeUumed, " it is Uie tree ol"
-lavery, and not the tree of liberty."
Tlu; Pays dc Vaud was separatid IVom the canton of Hern, and formed into uu independent repu!)-
lic imder the protection of France in .laiuiary IT'Jii. In the new division tf Swiixcrlatid it forms th<
( :a ".ri or deD^irtmenl of Lemaii; of which Lausai-.ne is the capital.
■; K 2
so.
oNr,'". viiAvrr: in swi iser lav d,
v\itliin twc liiy-ltiur hour;, from the suvtui^ncouiuil ollkru ; ahhouf^h it ^'Liurally hap
pens that cit;ht days arc irranu d for thai ]) iiposi-. When tlic crimiiuil is scivad within
tl.( jurisdiction oi tlic town, tlic l.irt i-, iiicd, anrl tin- l)uri^hcT.s piononncc- sentence in
the tow n-hall : in this case tlierc is no ai»i)< al. liul wiien he is taken within tlie district
of the bailiH", th( y assemble in I^is lionsc, and an appeal lies h-ont their determination to
liirn. I iiave bedi more |)arti;:idar in u\\ iiujniries eoiiceriiins.'; the mode (jf this eriini-
;.al process, Ironi the resemblance ii buirs, in some respects, to om' trial In jury.
Mere is an academy iur the sUidui's ol' this eotmtry : professors in every science arc
aiii)oinicdby f^overnment, and there is a tolerable library for tl)e use of the public.
I have several times had the ;:ood fortune to nuet 'I'isstM,' the celebrated physician
of this place; well known in the literarj world for his excellent writings upon medical
subjects. His conversation is uncommonly interesting ; as besides his skill it> his pro-
fession he is well versed in every branch of polite literature. His private character is no
ivss respectable than his public," and he i.i as nuieh esteemed for his great humanity as
for his superior kno\vled;^"e.
The church of Lausatme, iormtrly the cathedral, is a magniliccnt Gothic building,
■>tanding on the mtjst elt vated part oi' the town. It contains, among many other sepul-
< hres, the tomb of Amadeus the I'-ighth, duke of Savoy, styled the Solomon of his age,
l)Utmore known by the name of the anti-pope Felix the Fifth, who exhibited a singular
instance in tlie annals of Kurope, of a personage twice abdicatingthe pomp of sovereignty,
and twice retiring to a private station.
Having passed his early youth and opening man'iood in the puisuits of ambition, he
• nlarged his dominions by the acciuisition of the Gei\cvois and Piedmont, and obtained
in increase of rank by the erection of Savoy into a dutchy. Yet in the midst of his sue
cess and propitious fortune, the sudden death of a beloved wife, and a narrow escape from
issassination, inspired him with a disgust of the world; he resigned his dominions to his
; Idest son, and, accompanied with a few lords of his court, retired to u palace at Lu Ri-
jiaille, on the borders of the lake of Geneva. In this palace, which he called an hermi-
tage, he enjo)'cd, with an apparent indifference to the affairs of the world, a calm and
iratiquillity that seemed incompatible with his former aspiring ambition, until he was
suddenly called forth to public notice in a more exalted station.
The council of Basle having deposed Kugenius the Fourth, induced, according to
^ome audiors, by the reputation which Amadeus had acquired for sanctity, influenced,
according to others, by his largesses and intrigues, raised the liermit of La Uipaille to the
papal throne. This event took place in 1439 : the new pontiff quitting his favourite re-
treat, accepted the proffered dignity either with a real or affected reluctance, and assum-
i d the name of Felix the Fifth.
The jera of his disputed pontificate was marked witii turbulence and anarchy. In
erder to avoid the storms which agitated Europe, and to favour the indolence of his
temper, he freciuentl} retreated to his beloved hermitage, and directed the affairs of
the church from that sequestered corner. Conscious, at length, that his acceptance of
the papacy served to widen instead of healing the schism of the church; finding that he
w as oppo.'jcd by the most j^owerful princes of Euroixj ; that, on the death of his rival
F.ugcnius, the cardinals of Rome had chosen another pope, and being ill supported by
the remains of the council of Basle, he terminated the schism by resigning the papal
tiara in favour of Nicliolas the Fifth. In this transaction he proved his talents for ne-
* Tibsol is (lead since this was written.
^-^
\ V IJ I
: li li t or V 'I
w: I'll.
I 3 f . N
«U.»
gotiation 1j) ()btiuniIl.^• the iollcwiiii; (oiuliticuis : ihat lu nIiouIiI liijoy tin \n \i r.mk to
the pope, l)c ajipoiiiUcl xirMidf tin- Koni.iii mx', and llial all the ads passed in his |)f)ii-
tiliealc should be \alid. On iiis rcsij;iiati'»n lie iiM-d his resideiiee ai La liipaille, and
died in 1451.
Felix the I'ii'th sIkuuI the fate of many cuinlvoeal characters. Hy some he Is repre-
sented as II saint, l)V others, as(:()\erin[;^ tlij nuist ambitious desiirns under the mask of
sanctity; In the I'ornKr, his residence at La {^ipaille is described as the retreat ol're-
lififious austerity ; by the latter, as the seat oi' luxury. In this, as in similar cases, both
parties exceeded the truth. On reviewing the j),incipal events of his life, \vc may con-
clude, that a palace built by a prince, in which he was accompanied by many lords ol"
his court, where he institute il an order ol' kniirjuhoofl, and resided with the pomp and
dipjnity of a sovereign ponlill", could be no common hermitage ; and that he assumed the
name, rather than passed the life of a hermit; while the j)owcr and rank which he se-
cured to himself on his resignation of the papacy, sulliciently demonstrate, lliat he never
intended to renounce the world. On the contrary, should we admit, duit his life at L i
Ripaillc was not embittered by penance and mortifitations ; yet as no contemporary au
thors, even those who were by no means partial to his character, have stigmatised his
retirement, wc ought not hastily to conclude that it w;is the retreat of a mere voluj)-
tuary. But in whatever light his moral (jualities may be considered, no one can with-
hold from him the character of an able politician.
It is not my intention to enter into a general or particular description of the Roman
antiquities discovered in Sw itzcrland ; il' you arc curious in such researches, I must re-
fer you to Bochart, Miller, Spon, and other antiquaries, who have minutely treated that
subject. I cannot, however, a\oid mentioning two lately-discovered Roman moiui-
mc nts, which arc placed in the garden of M. Levade, near the church at Lausiuine.
The first is an altar of white marble with red veins, and was Ibund in 1782 by some
workmen in digging the foundations of a house in the town ofVevay; it is broken in
a horizontal direction, and what remains is a foot and a half long and a foot high. The
inscription, though not entire, proves it to be an altar erected by the twentieth ks^ion to
the god Silvaaus :
DKO SILVANO
ESPKR URSUL.
FiCIO LEG. XX.
mC
The second monument is a Roman mile-stone, discovered in a viiicyard near Pan tli',,
a few paces from the high road, with this inscription :
Imp.
Cics T. AL. Avg.
Antonino
Pio -PM Trib.
Cos. III. P. P.
Avent. M. P. T.
XXXVIII.
This inscription removed a doubt long entertained by the Swiss antiejuaries. iiocnart
among others, expresses liis surprise, that no inscription bearing the name Antoninus
Pius, who was so great a benefactor to the ancient Helvetians, had been found in Swii
ion
(.OXii n IRAVEl.o IN r,U 1 r/,1. lU.ANiJ.
•/.crlaiKl. But this niilc-stonc, which wns put up in the third Consulship of that Km
jKTor, is probably the prehulo to the discovery of other luouumcuts erected in his
honour.
The road from Lausanne to Vcvay runs along the sides of the mountaitis between
r.oniinued ranfj;es of \'ineyards. The industry of the Swiss is nowhere more observable
than in these par's : the mountains in many places, thouj^h naturally consisting of a
bare stetp rock, are thickly covered with vines; the mould has been brought from
other grounds, in order to create a soil, and is supported by rows of stunes ranged in
straight lines like walls, lint this mode (jf culture, however advantageous and even
necessary to the natives, occasions a dis;igree;ible iniiformity in the face of the country.
Tl'.e vines also do not Ibrm a pleasing and pieturesrpie appearance, like those of the
\'alt(.Tme,* which are carried in beatitilul festoons from tree to tree. The plants are
low, and fastened to poles al)out four feet in height ; and the walls which enclose them
and liordcr the road, freciuenth interrujit the view.
This district between Lausanne and \'evay is called La \'aux, and contains the two
pkiisant little towns of Lutty and Cully, with the villages of St. Saphorinf and Corsier :
it is entirely hilly, rising abruptb from the lake ; above tlie vineyards are rich mea-
dows and acontiniad forest.
\'evay, the ancient Vibiscum, and the principal town of the bailliage, is clean and
well built, stands in a small plain at the foot of the mountain on the margin of the
water, and is one of the few places in the canton of Bern which carry on any trade.
The borders of this part of the lake are much more contrasted, wild, and picturesque,
ihan those about Gene\ii : the mountains of the Vallais and Savoy boldly project into the
water, and form a semicircular chain enclosing the lake, except where they arc divided
by the Rhone a few leagues from \'evay.
Vcvay is distinguished as the residence of Edmund Ludlow, the famous parliamentary
general, who, in those times of misrule and confusion, uniformly acted with consistency
and dignity. True to his republican principles, he no less violently opposed the daring
usurpation of Cromwell, than the arbitrary measures of Charles the First, and could
never be prevailed upon, either by threats or promises, to desert the cause, which he
considered as that of justice and liberty. Being excepted, as one of the king's judges,
from the act of indemnity passed at the restoration of Charles the Second, he wandered
without any fixed place of residence, until he found an asylum from the attempts of his
enemies at \'evay, under the protection of Bern.
At the important period of the revolution he returned to England, anxious to serve
his country under our great deliverer ; and William the Third, whose mind rose su-
perior to the narrow prejudices of pa.ty, was no less desirous to employ u general of
* Sec Li'tur Ixxv.
t In ihc church of St. Saphovin is uiuiucient Uonum milc-sionc, found near ihatvilhiga:
Tl. CLAVDIVS. DRVSI. F.
C.tS. AV(i. GERM.
I'ONT. MAX TRllJ. POT. VII.
IMP. XII. V. P. COS. nil.
F A
XXXVII
rhis uiscription ascciuiiiis two circunisttmccK frequently called in q\iestiou : namely, that the b.mks
of the lake of Ge:ieva, \> liich border this part of Switzerland were comprised within a Roman province,
even so curly as the time of Claudius ; and also that Aventicum was the chief town of this part of
Helvetia : for the mile-stones always referred to the capital of the province in which they wtrc plar<?d
Mu\ the distance fron» Si. Saphorin to Aventhcs is nearly 37,uu(.'.
A .s ft IN I n E f f .• %• r K V (
)t;' '.i. I'iov
SOX
such approved experience and Ikk-lity. Hut the kiiiK^ hvmir addrc ss. d l.v iIk Unmr oi
commons to issue a proclamation for appidicndin!; Ludlou, he was con'ipelkcl to (niii
iMigland at this critical period, ami again settled at \'eva\-. \\\ mav collect liom his
jreneTal character and eoniluct, that, had he Uin permitted to servi' his country he
would have successively employed his great miliiarv talents against the assi ricrs of bi-
gotry and despotism, with the same j'.eal uhich he displaved in opposing an arhitrary go-
vernment; he would have supported the new administration, when liic enormous pre
rogatives ol the crown, against which he had unsluatlKd his sword, wciv abolished by
law, and the Irecdom of the su!)jcct was established on the b.isis oleoiial libeitv und.i
the authority of a limited monarch.
He died in IGW, in the sixty-fouid. year of his age, and was interred in the ehniv;,
ot \ cvay. lis monument is a plain grave-stone of black marble, .-ontainini.- a Latin
mscription, which is printed in Addison's Travels. The house which he lormerlv inh i
bited stands near the gate fading to the \allais, and the uncouth motto inscribed ove,
the door is still preserved out ol respect to his memory ;
Oiniic sdlmii lorti j)atiiiust, ()iii;i p.iiri-,.
The memoirs of Ludlow arc written in a simple and perspicuous stvK-, with th.
knowledge ol a man annually engaged in the scenes which he describes,' and with tl c
sp.nt ot a general zealous in the cause which he had espoused and dclcnd.d. IVrha, s
his animated detail ol the trial and execution of the regicides is not surpassed bv a '
narrative m ancient or modern histor)'. i i^seu u\ an.
Nature can scarcely form a position more delightful than that of the castl- of Chuii
lard or Clarcns ; it stands not iar from VcNay, above the village, on an e" Vme e
whose gemie declivity slopes gradually towards the lake, commanding a vie th i
majestic body ol water, its lertilc borders, and the bold rocks and Alps of SavoV 'H c
adjacent scenery consists ol vineyards, fields of corn and pasture, and rich grove ol
oak ash. and Spanish chesnut trees. Although the situation and environs harn oni^
with the animateci scenery m the Kloise of Rousseau ; yet the castle by no means cc cK
With his description. The traveller sees an oblong building uith ancient t e ,
pen hotjsc roof ; m the n.s.de a large hall like a pnson, and\he whole bea isra h r L
antiquated appearance ot a feudal mansion inhabited bv some turbulent baron tir , Z
residence ot the elegant and impassioned Julia. ' '
Opposite to Clarcns, on :H- other shore of the lake, are the dark gloomy rocks of Mei!
ene. 1 he village lies m the recess of a small bay, at the for)t of unpen ling moPut i
m some parts gently sloping, and clothed to the water's edge with dark tbrcMs i ot e
naked and perpendicular bringing to recollection the fancied rocks of Leucate. ' % '
1 hcse are the scenes of the Xouvelle Eloise. Having obtained that novc It 'i c ircu "'
ating ibrary m Lausanne, I continued, during these expedition , to x . nf tl cTi'
uon ot the country, and compare it with the descriptions of Hon scan. Si ml obSs
may be magnified: but no pencil, however aninutted, can delineate the W(^derS nnd
sublime works of nature; even die warm colouring of I^H.sseau lU no rt^^ncdd
beauty ot the scenery. 1 read with attention the pi^ncipal , a t r h fs ^ t n r
fbrmance, and dwelt more particularh- upon that litter, in ^vhich St. Kail Ses" his ..v
..t c.u.rpcc, I'cu^ est proibuCt j:;::!:^; tJ:;:^: '" "^"'""^ ^^ '"^ " "- '-^? ■ '■•' '-'^'•
^.-■^■■
/
af)8
(.ONI.
MI.WT.l.a IN 5U-ITXEH LAND,
expedition to Mtillcric ; ulicrcin Ionc and despair arc worked up almost to madness.
Open that performance, read that letter, and consider diat part ot" it, where St. I'reux
points out the number of towns and villaji;es, the continued fertility and high cuUivation
of the Pays de \'aud, and contrasts it with the f^loomy coasts of Chablais, exhibiting
only a few towns lyint; on ihi: edge of the water; you will then see the happy eftects of
liberty underainild and efpiitable governmeni, like that of Bern. I am, &c.
LF/rTKU XLIII.
C(ist/c of Sc/il//(»i....l'i//('ncin'c 4i;r/c Salf-wnrhs of Jhx and Ji'gk:
THAVKLLKHS not unusually make an agreeable excursion from \'evay to the Salt
v.orks of Hex and Aigle.
The road continues along a plain, with hills on one side, and the lake on the othei.
llalk r's judicious distinction of the elevated jjart of this country may from this spot
be well exemplified. The rocky Alps are seen with their pyramidal tops shooting into
the heavens, and incrusted with ice and snow. Snow likewise, at various intervals, covers
the steep slopes beneath the aspiring peaks ; rich pasturage succeeds, and die lower
pans are clothed with forests of firs. The mountains, such as the Jura, and those rising
towards Denis and Oruyeres, are fertile in grass, well wooded, their tops even, exten-
sive, and arable ; and though with little appearance of rock on the surface, yet inter-
nally filled with a hard yellowish stone fit for building, but impatient of the chissel.
The eollines, or little hills, are frequent at the foot of the mountains, and separated by
little vallies watered by brooks.
As I advanced, the mountains approached the lake ; their nature changed, their
height increased, and their craggy tops and wooded sides convinced me, that I was ap-
proaching the genuine Alps. Above the woods soared, in a most picturesque manner,
a lofty pyramidal crag called Le Dent de Jamant ; the woods were firs mixed with oak ;
the road lay close to the water's edge.
The castle of Chillon, or rather the castellated house, is a large pile with round
and square towers, standing on a rock in the lake, and connected with the land by
a draw-bridge. The vaults arc very fine ; the arched roofs, and the pillars which sup-
port it, are in a neat Gothic style. This castle,* in 1536, was wrested from Charles III, of
Savoy, by the canton of Bern, assisted by the Genevans, who furnished a frigate (their
naval force) to besiege it by water. In a deep dungeon, below the level of the lake,
the conquerors found Bonivard, prior of St. Victor, the intrepid antagonist of the duke
of Savoy, and the great asscrter of Genevan independence. He had been imprisoned
by the Savoyards during six years, and, by constant walking iti his short limits, had
Morn ii hollow in the rock. This castle was for a short time die residence of a bailifi'
from Bern, until a more convenient liousc was purchased in Vevay.
About half a league further is Villeneuve, a small town at the extremity of the lake.
This magnificent piece of water stretches from Geneva to Villeneuve, in length fifty
four miles ; it is in the shape of a crescent ; Switzerland forms the hollow. Savoy the
convex part ; the greatest breadth is from St. Sulpice to Grande Rive, where it is
twelve uiilesiwide. Savoy aftbrds a rude and awful boundary of aspiring Alps, craggy
and covered w ith the ice of ages. The couniry from Geneva to the cnviro\is of Lau-
sanne, slopes for a considerable way to the margin of the lake, and is enriched widi all
* Tho castle of Chillon was seized by the insuif^ents in Januiiry 1798, unci this act of rebellion, ucl
i)Qinu punished, was followed by the separution of the I'ays de Vaud from the canton of bvni.
.\VT) IV Mil; roiNi.. Y or iiik (.nisosr..
mn
madticss,
t. I'rcux
iltivatiou
'cliibitinp;
L'fll'CtS ol
c.
) the Salt
the othcj
this spot
Dting into
lis, covers
the lower
osc risin{^
:n, exten-
yet inter-
ic chisscl.
)aratcd by
gcd, theii
1 was ap-
2 manner,
with oak ;
ith round
c land bv
hich sup-
:les III, of
;atc (their
the lake,
the duke
tnprisoned
imits, had
ol' a bailiff
f the lake,
ngth fifty
Savoy the
I Ik re it is
)s, craggy
IS of Lau-
d with all
ibi-Uion, uot
the vaiitlics which nature can bcst-nv ; the lonti; ridpje of the Jura, Arlil.- jn p:istiirafj;r,
and varied witlj wofjds, backs this iK-amifiil tract. Near Lausanne the ba;iks ^i^(.• v( rv
(•(msiderably, and form a njost ( harminf; Icnacc; a few niilis bcvond is a rapid dc
scent. Near Vevay bcf^ins a jdain, whieh is continued far bcy<nid the end of the hke.
but con^racliuf,^ by the approach of the mountains, towards the lal;e. The colour ol
the water is extremely beautiful, clear, and at a distance seems of a n)'>st lovdy l)hic
Near (ic-nc va the coast ab.)iuuls in small pebbles covered u ilh a brown incrustation ,
from thenci as far as Lausaiuie the shores are sandy ; between that town and C'hilloii
appear led^^es of roek'^, Icird and calcareous ; and tlu extremity of the lake is a marsh
fornuil by the eolkctctl nuid of the Hlioiu . 'The depth is various: l)e Luc asseris,
that on sounding it hi li;i(l I'ound the {greatest di pih to be a himdrcd and sixty fitlioms
like all iiilaml lakes enclosed within hi^h mountains, it is sul)j(;ct to sudden stornjs.
I am uncertain whether any Ijirds lie(|UcMt the lake, which are not c(Mnmoii to the
rest of Switzerland. The tippet greljcs'^ ap|)ear in December, and retire in February ;
being obliged to breed in other places, because the lake is almost totally destitute ol
reeds and rushe.-), in which they f(irm their Moating nest. 'I'he skins are an elegant
article of luxury, and sell for about twi he or fourteen shillings each.
From \'illeneuve the road runs through a beautilul valley, four miles in width, con
listing of the richest meadow and corn laud, very po|)uIousand finely wooded, boiuidcd
on each side by the Alps, with tops broken into vast crags of various forms. I passed
near La Roche, where a director of tlic saIt-\\orks is stationed by the government ol
Bern; a place rend*. fed memorable by the residence of Haller, who filled that onict
from 1753 to 1760, and prepared in this delightful retreat many of his numerous pub-
lications, particularly his immortal work on physiology,
I left at a little distance Yvorne, ruined, in 1584, by the lapse of a mountain occa
sioncd by an earthfjuake, crossed the torrent of La Grande Ivau, and halted at Aigle.
a good town, seated beneath sotnc small round hills prettily covered with firs. Thi^
country was conquered from the Savoyards by Bern in 1 175, ar.d was made a distinct
government consisting of four Mandemens ; the governor resides at Aigli'. This town
Avas formerly governed by the family of Torrens; but in 1553 the last coimt formally
resigned his pretensions at Bern. This government of Aigle reaches to the Pays do
Vaud, and, when under the dominion of the house of Sa\()y, was comprised within
that district; at present it is classed under the German division, although the language
of the natives is French. Further on the valley is greatly contracted, and so liiied with
trees as to apj)ear a great forest. The laburnum abounds in a wild state ; the wood is
beautifully veined, of great strength, and much usetl for wedges and musical instru-
ments; the variety with short spikes of tlowers has elegant veins, and is called the
ebony of the Alps. Pliny says its wood is the hardest next to the ebony. The cornelian
cherry is common in the hedges, and the fruit is freciuently preserved with sugar. 'I'he
Machaleb cherry, or Prunus Machaleb, is found in these jiarts ; the wood is red, of
fine scent, and in recpiest for handles of knives ; it is known among cutlers by the name
of Bois de St. Lucie ; a pleasant scented water is distilled from the leaves, and the seeds arc
used to give a Iragrancy to soap. Between Aigle and Bex is a most picturesque view of
the castle of St. Tr) phon, on the summit of an insulated rock in the middle of the
plain; it is quite burrounded with wood, and realises Milton's description of an ancient
castle,
" IJosomed liiyli in tvif'ii.d irees."
• Pi-nium's liiit. Zool. vol. ii. No. 'J22.
VOL. v.
5 I.
sio
1 ONE s I II w ft I", IS r.uij ;:kbi, ANU,
1 ;iii) iiifornud it i-i built of iu:irl)k', :iiul prohahly of a iK-aiitilVl Mack siiccics iiitiic\i-
< iiiity. St. Tryphon was a IMiiyi;iin, mIio is snid lo li;ivi' siilUrcd luartynloiu at Nice
ill ^.'il, at tliL time of ilic pirstciiiion uiuluilu' uniicror Diciiis.
Hex is a fcinall town at tlit loot oltlic monntains, live iniks from the salt-works at
Ikviciix ; in this district I observed tlu larch in pjr.at picnt) , Pointers, from the lime
'il' IMiny to that ol' i{a|ihiel, trvstid their works to this wood, which the Uomaii natti-
ralist styles iiuinortale li^mmi ; it is reckoned excellent lor all works which are to lie
under water; and the borderers on the lake of (lent \ a prefer it lor bnildinj^ their vcs-
sels. In these part«> I saw most beautiful woodsof clusnut; Il.iller says they extend
^onie ka^Mies, and iiilbrins lis that they are found in other parts of Suitiierland, and
c\en in desert places in some of the trans;«lpine districts; accident must have brou!j;ht
thcin thither, us, according; to I'iiiu , these trees were first introduced into I'ai rope from
Sard is.
Upon our arriv.il at the salt-springs, I put on a workman's jacket, and went into the
inount;iin about ;1()()0 leet almo' t hori/.ontally. 'I'he gallery is six feet high, and four
broad, aiul as nicely hollowed as if cut with achissel : it is hewn in a black rock, veined
in some places with white g}psum. The salt is procured from springs, which are found
within a solid rock, perforateil at a great expence ; the riclust source yields twenty-eight
pou.ids of salt |)er cent, and the pcjorest but half a pound. Near these springs are seve-
ral Warm sources which contain a mixture of salt, but are so strongly impregnated with
sulphur as to flame w hen a lighted candle is put into the pipe through which they flow.
\o solid salt, excepting a few small cubes, has been yet discovered ; but the mountain
is replete with its particles. Hocks of w hitc gypsum or alabaster, mixed with bluish
clay, are common near the springs, in the same manner as may be observed in the pits
of Northwich, in Clieshire.
After travelling in this subterraneous passage near three quarters of a mile, I ob-
>crved a great wheel of thirty-live feet diameter, which raises the brine from the depth
of about seventy feet. From this place is a shaft three hundred feet high, which is cut
through the mountain to the surface, for the purpose of introducing fresh air. Tnotind
two rtsirvoirs hollowed in the solid rock for holding the brine; one was >i hundred and
sixty llet scpiare, and nine in depth. Since my first expedition to these pits in 177G,
the workmen had pierced the rock twenty. five feet deeper, and cut a gallery a hundred
feet in length ; tluy had also begun to form a thikd reservoir to c(mtain 5.500 cubic feet
which was nearly half finished. The brine deposited in these reservoirs is conveyed,
by means of two thousand pipes, about a league to Bevieux, where the salt is extracted.
The brine pits near Aigle contain only from two to one-half per cent, and yield
annually about a third as much as those of Bevieux, or al/out 500 quintals. The
salt is much whiter and heavier than that of Bevieux, and consetjuently bears a higher
price.
These, which are the only salt-works in Switzerland, scarcely yield a net ycarlv pro-
fit of more than 30001. and furnish only one-twelfth of the annual consumption'ofthc
canton. The remainder is procured chiefly from France, which by treaty provides the
Sw iss states w ith this commodity at a moderate price ; indeed so high is the tax upon
;ialt in that kingdom, that even the French salt is sold two-thirds cheaper in Switzer-
land, than in many parts of France.* The ordinary price of common suit tliroughout
ihe canton is three halfpence per pound.
* At Paris, wlicio it is the (Icmcst, a pound of sull is sold for uhovii 1,1 sols, or sixpence of our
nioiuy : ill soiiif otliif p.iiisof Franci., for instance in riiinchc Comt<;» a pound costs only 4or,i sols.;
AN1« IV I Iff ■(•LNIi;\ C» I tit, (. niSON^
Ull
LKTTKn WAV.
I\illry out/ /,(di' of Joii,i\.,.(hfu' SV. Ihirtlnh'i^i.. Vvc'Siuh.
)'i'ni!un, Si'jit. ,'
Tlic chain of nujimtains calKd the Jtir.i, luf^iiis ii\ the C jiitoii ol" Ziiric, c\Uiids
iilrufT thf Hliinc into the Miiton aiul l)ish()|)ric of liisli," strtu hcsiiito tlu- r niton of So
leiirc ;ukI the |)rin(i|)alit\ ol Viuchatcl, braiicht s out tow irds the l'a\s di; \ am!, sc
paratLs that coimtn iVonj Traiichf Comti' and IJiirj^uiidy, ami coniiiims In-yoiul the
iVoiitiLTs ol" the (iiiHvois as I'ar as the Rhoiie. In varions parts ol" the Pays (k \'aud,
this chain forms many elevated vallies mncl» visited by travellers, an>'in{^st vvhii;h, not
the least rrmarkahk', is the \ alley of the lake of Jonx, ipon the top of that part ol
t!ie Jura eallid Mont Jonx, in the hailliaj^e of Uoman Motier. it lonlains several
neat ;md well-peopled villages, is beautiliillN ehe<jii< red with uood, arable and [)astnre
f^round, and watend by the two pi(;tureb(pie lakes ol" Jonx and IJrenet.
Near the small vilhif^eol' Abl)aye, a ri\nlet gnshes I'rom the bottom lock, and loses
itstir in the lari^i r lake, I'rom the sn) ill lake descends a sin am, which is lost in a hoi.
low }jjuir called I/l'.ntonnier, or the runnel, a nanje coimnon to several others in this
place ; in this .^iill' si \eral mills are tumid b)' the force of the current. About two
miles lurthir, (»n the other side of the mountain, the river Orbe bursts forth, and is
probably iirotlueed by the stream here ingulfing.
This little vale is very populous, containing about thne thousand Inhabitants, who
arc remarkably industrious. .Some ntake watches ; but the greater part are crmployed
in polishing crystals, granites, and marcasites. In the small village of I'ont, where we
lodged, most of the inhaiiitants bear the surname of Hochat ; u name which also runs
through the village of Charboniere, w ith the exception of only two or three iamilies,
and is prevalent likewise in that of Abbaye : the whoh; number of these Kochats
amomjts to about a thousand ; diey are supposed to be descendants of the same familj ,
and dicir ancestors came originally from France. These parts are nuich infested with
bears and wolves.
In descending from this delightfid spot, through a variety of hill, v.illc y, wood, and
lawn ; we had a most extensive j)rospect, comprehending great part of the I'.iys de
\'aud, the lake of (leneva with its mountainous boundary, and that of Neu("hatel.
These two lakes appear, from that high point of view, to be nearly up(jn the same le-
vel,* wiUi no considerable swell of the cotnitry intervening.
Wc passed through a beautiful and pictures(jue country from Roman Motier to
Orbe ; which, according to antiquaries, was the most ancient town, and once the mo,t
powerful, of all Helvetia ; it ^^as called Urba, and was die capital of the Pagus Urbi-
genus; no remains, however, exist at present of its ancient splendour. Some aniique
fortifications, an old castle, and a round tower, arc works probably of later and more
turbulent times ; erected, perhaps, when this country was divided into a numlier of
feudal sovereignties. I am greatly pleased with the romantic situation of the town, die
boldness of Uic single-arched bridge projecting over the Orbe, the wild scenery on the
banks of that river, the frequent cataracts, and the picturesciue views in the environs.
(jiU it is furnished to the Swiss iit the rate of 2^ sols. The reader y,il\ ivtollccr that this ucieu:i'
vus written in 1770,
♦ Accorditit^ to M. dcL'ic. th< lake of Neiuhiitcl is 159 Fi'ei'.f h feet ut'ovj tl.at of Ccp. \m.
5 L-2
•*lJ
roxp/a in\vi.La in su i izeula n n,
M. Wiul, ;iM t'luliKUt siir;,'i'>ii of tlii>> fowii, Ii:»s I'Drmiil, under the protection r.f
tlu' |^r>\(riiiiKiit (ilHtrn, .in ist.lili^lnnint whuh well (I'sltvin tlu- attention of the iui*
inatu iiiid ( iirioits traNtllii. It i^ .m iiilirniarv lor tlu nciptiun ot thusv. (ilijeets who
are horn with distorted liMdtt, or owe that nii-^lortmic to accident. The cinldren arc
ludj^ed and Ijoardvd in llie liunse inul< r ti\c eai\ of his assistant, who char^.'(«» himself
with i'.ll tin. (U tall ol hoiisi k< < pinf^', and of instriictiii;^ those, wliose a;;;e renders it re(|ui.
site that their education should not he ne^lectid. M. Win Ps skill in improving and
simplil'xinf^ the ina<|iiius necessary lor hi.> purpose, h.is heeii htilHcitntly aliestetl by va
rious eines.
'I'Ikj- gh he chi< lly tonnnca hisaUenipts to infants and children, )et he has performed
several cures on ailuits. Ills nv»st crticacions remedy is a maeliine which he has invented
to emhr.ieethc p.tieni's lim!)-» whm in hed, and which is contrived to act withrjut dis-
turhinmlKir re->i. luf^inious as his mdlind ii, yet he iicknowKd^cs, that much of his
success dcpeiwl.-. on mild tre.itment and eominual inspeclion. I was convinced ind<'edof
the mildnrss of his treatnteiU, hy oliserv'.itj^- several of these children, from four to ten
years ()i'a!j;c (ravvlin;^ ahout the j^Monnd and diverlin^^ themselves witii ^reat cheerful-
ness, alt!ionj;l> .asul up in their machinery, it may n(»t perhaps he imwcjrthy of re-
mark, iliat .M. \'incl, on the admission of amiserahle object, takes in plaister of Paris
the liffiire oi" the distorted linjhs, in order to demonstrate the pro^^ress of the cure. Such
in esialjlishment redoimds hij^hly to the honour of M. N'enel, and the government who
protects it, I'lid is worthy of imitation in allcoimtries.
Orhe, which is governed hy its own magistrates, is comprised within the bailliage
>l' l''.chalens, helunt^ing to Bern pi'd Krihurgh : these two cantons alternately send a
hailift", who residis at J^chalcns, and remains in o.'Vicc during five years. When Bern
appoints the hailifl", an appeal lies from hisdtcisions i ) tlie sovereign council of Fribnrgh;
as it does to the government of Bern, when he is lu-jminated hy I'rihurgh. By these
means a great check is laid upon the exactions of the bailiff, and I am informed, that
justice is no uliere more ecjually iidnjinislcred than in these common bailliages of the
cantons.
Perhaps one of the most Ijcautiful and finest positions in Swit:.cr!and is the castle of
St. B irtlK lemi, the seat of count d'Allry, colonel of the Swiss guards ; and now in-
habited by his son, count Louis d'AlVry, to whom I was indebted for a most kind and
friendly rece|Uion. This ancient f;;mily-seat stands on an eminence in the bailliage of
Kchalens, about three miles from Orhe, near the high road from Lausanne to Yverdun.
The sides of the eminence are feathered wiih wood, and below are rich fields and mea-
dows of tlv finest VLTdure, watered bv two livelv torrents which unite and form the
Falun. Upon the high road, the count has reared an obelisk, on which he has inscribed,
in the true spirit of toleration, "praise God, all ye nations," in the English, Latin,
French, and German languages.
The castle commands a prospect of a most fertile and well-wooded country, gently
broken into hill and dale on one side appears a distant view of the Jura and the hills
of Burgundy and Francb Comte ; on the other, the horison is bounded by the rugged
Alps in the canton of Bern and in the Vallais, by Mount V^elain, the highest point of
St. Bernard, and Mont Blanc, whose superior elevation above the surrounding heights
is such, that its summit reflects the rays of the rising sun several minutes sooner, and
retains those of the setting sun several minutes later than any of the circumjar a^
mountains.
From St. Barthelemi we descended into the plain, which stretches to the lake oi'
Yverdun, and was formerly covered as far as Entrerochcs (dirce leagues from its pre-
AN»» !\ I Ml. CnL'SinV 01 illK f. H1 10 MS.
HL>
sent position) niul prnUihly furtlui, l)> that l;ikr ; it i*» now, for n cniv.Uh r.iMt- part, ii
grtut swamp. Wiiliiu iMpi.iiiir nl a mill of the toun, arc uiirm baths vvhiili an slrnuj;.
\) Milphkircoiis, and mm:h hupuntcd during; thi Mimnur nioiithH.
Yvirdiin isl,ir^!;c, uirv and wcllhuilt with stone, hkt- the towns in thr Paysd'j Vaiid :
it stands nt^Mi tilt lake, i:i a small island formal hy the two !)ranch<s of th<' river Thitlc.
Uctwcin the town and the lake a pleasant lawn t xtnuls to the water, planted w.th live-
niKs of lime trus. Yverdnn carries on scarcely any trade, and its principal support
arises fnjm the passajrc of the merchandise lj{ twcen I'iednvv.i and (Icrmany. Thi-. town
iM celebrated for its piinting-press, established in the In ginning of the present (intury ;
but entirely neglected until, Home years aj^o it was renewed by Felice, u Neapolitan of
learning and abilities.
The lake of Yverdnn, or of Neuchit •), stretches from south to north aljout twenty
miles in length, and in some places about five in brcudth , its shores near Yverdun arc
covered witl> country houses.
It is exlraortlinary', that the dull and tas'- less uniformity of du French gardens should
have been adopted by the Swiss, whose coinitry a!)ounds with noble and pictures(pie
situations, and where nature wantons in the must lu.xuriant variety. I have frccpientiy
observed, in die midst of the most romantic, scenes, a niajestic forest sliced into regular
alleys, and at the very borders of the line lakes, artilici il pools of water edged with sun-
burnt |)arterres.
Should any person in this instance accuse mc of natioijal prejudice, let mc exclaim with
Voltaire, who certainly cannot be convicted of partiality to the Knglish :
Jardiiii pUiiitcs en syinnicliic,
Aildcs iiiiiiis arts ail rurdtiiii,
Ctltii (|ui vou-^ init uu ni\'M«i
I'ji vaii\ s'ap|)l;ni(lii, ^i- riirie;
I'.ii voyaiit <f pi lit morri'aii,
JardiiiH il taut <|tie jc voiis fiiic,
Tritl) il'art in<' rivoltf «i in'oiinuic' ;
J'aiinc luiiiix ris vaotis rorcls,
I. a iiaUnr librt i" hardic
!rri'miliciT ch.urt s. s traits
S'accon'.c avcc tna famaslt;.
I am, he.
LETTKU XLV.
(Iransou. . . , Xeiichatvi. . .,M. Ptinj's lienvfuction,
\VK skilled the wist side of the lake of Neuchatel through Granson, the principal
lown of a bailliage of that name, belonging lo Bern and Vribnrgh, and remarkable
for the battle in which Charles ihebold, duke of Burgundy, was defeated by die Swiss
in 1467. We entered the principality of the Neuchatel about six miles from that town,
and passed through St. Aubin, I3oudri, Colombier, lying pleasantly upon the borders
of the water. The road runs along the side of the Jura, through a country that re-
sembled, in some measure, the district of La Vaux, between Lausanne and Vcvay :
the sides of the Jura arc almost the whole way corered with vines, supported in many
parts by low stone walls. The borders are more uniform than those of the lake of
Geneva, and do not rise into sucli high, irregular and grotesque Alps as the coast of Cha-
blais. Towards Granson and St. Aubin, the country is more diversified with meadows
and corn- fields; nearer to Neuchatel, the summits of the mountains are clothed ^vith
forest, and the midhuid and lower parts entirely planted with vines.
il I
» ON't.'s rn.wF.i.s iv swnzEni.ANr
Mtvcr
Iklwccii the lakt ;iik1 the Jura many streams burst from the rock, and after turning
:veral mills, fall into the lake at ^ little distanee from their source. The largest is that of
La Serricre, near a small village of the same name, which wc crossed in our way to
C'olombier, where wc dined with a family whose acquaintance we had formed at the
baths of lAuk. We passed a very agreeable day with these amiable persons ; by whom
we were received with that frankness and unatlected ease which charactertscs true po-
liteness.
After dinner some musicians of the country performed the Renz des vachcs, diat
famous air which was lorbidden to be played 'among the Swiss troops in die French
Mrvice ; as it awakened in the soldiers such a longing recollection oftheir native country
that it ol'ter.ed produced a settled melancholy, and occasioned fretjucnt desertion. The
I ivnch call iliis sj^eiiic s of patriotic regret, la maladie du pays. There is nothing pecu
liarly striking in the tune ; but, as it is composed of the mo'st simple notes, the power
lul eHect of its f.alady upon the Swiss, in a foreign land, is less surprising. Nothing
ni(le(d revi\es so lively a remenil)rance of former scenes, as a piece of favourite music
\\ lii( h we u ere accustomed to hear amid our earliest and dearest connections ; upon such
an occasion, a long train of associated ideas rise in the mind, and melt it into tenderness.
I o use the language of poetry,
There is in souls ;i s\ inpailiy with sounils.
Wlicrcver I luue licard
A kindred nulody, tl\c scene ik urs,
And with il all its pleasure and its pains.*
It is observable, that those who inhabit mountainous countries are most subject u-
this maladie du pays, because their habits of life arc essentially different from the customs
and manners of other parts. Accordingly, the Scotch Highlanders, and the Biscayans,
as well as the Swiss, when absent Irom their homes, arc peculiarly apt to be affected
with every circumstance that recalls it to their minds.
The town ol" Neuehatel is small, and contains about 3000 souls. It lies partly upon
tiie little plain between the lake and die Jura, and partly upon the declivity of that
mountain ; in consequence of which situation, some of the streets are \'cry steep. At
die commencement of the present century, commerce was almost wholly unknown in
this town, as the ridiculous pride of its being deemed degrading generally prevailed
among the inhabitants : this senseless prejudice, is now, however, nearly extinguished.
The chief article of exportation is wine, produced from the neighbouring vineyards,"
and much esteemed ; manufactures also o( printed linens and cottons have been esta-
blished -'ith success, and within these few years, several merchants have raised larffc
fortunes. °
'PI u r 1 , , October 3, 1786.
1 he mildness ot the government, and the general well being of the inhabitants, are
visibly demonstrated from the increase of population, and the prodigious influx of set-
ders. The number of souls in the principality of Neuehatel and Vallengin beine in
1752, only 28,017 subjects, and 4318 aliens, amounted in 1784 to 31,576 subjects
and 9704 aliens, which gives an increase of near a fourth part within the space of thirty-'
two years. The facility ol accjuiring the burghership of Neuehatel has also prevented
any decrease of inhabitants. Thus the magistrates, between the years 1760 and 1770,
* Cowpcr's Task, book vi.
AM) IN niE COL'NIItV 01 1 H K c.Hll-OSh.
Hl.i
:t turning
t is that oi
ir way to
icd at the
by whom
J true po-
uhcs, that
le French
e country
on. The
ling pecu
ic power
Nothing
ite music
ipon such
nderncss.
ubject lo
? customs
liscayans,
c affected
rtly upon
y of that
eep. At
inown in
prevailed
iguished.
ineyards,
een esta-
sed large
3, 1786.
tants, are
ix of set-
being, in
subjects,
of thirty.
)rcvented
lid 1770,
iidmitted forty-one burghers; h'um 1770 to 1780, forly-six ; hdm IT.SOttj 178o,lifi\ ■
one; in all, a hundred and thirty-eight. Many of these scukrs had children before.
they purchased the burgiiership ; tliirty. eight were lureigiars, eiilur (lirman, French,
or Swiss.
Several public works and buildings have been lately erected at Ninehatel, at an ex-
pence far exceeding the revenues, or even wants of this liltle stati'. Amongst others I
shall mention a superb causeway leading towards the \.ilUy of St. Imiir, and a town-
house, built of such solid materials, as if intended to siir\ ivc to the most distant postc ritv,
and rival the duration of the much-famed llonian eapitol. •
The person to whom the burghers of Neuehatel principallv owe the embc ilislunent of
their town is M. David Piiry, late banker of the court at Lisbon, llr was a eiiix.cu of
Neuchatel, and was born in 1701) : his lather was mayor of I/iegneri s, afii rwards colouel
and justice of peace in Scmth Carolina, and loinidir of rurisl)urgli. Having received
his education in his native town, he quitted it, as some say, in great poverty, and repaired
to Geneva, where he passed hisapprentic:eship, but in what house, or inu hat trade, the
person who obligingly furnished me with these anecdotes did not mention. Froni Ge-
neva he went to London, and acted as one of the clerks to an eminent jeweller, where
heac(juired great skill in estimating tlie value of diamonds. After a long residence in
England, he established himself in Lisbon, and carried on an extensive commerce, par-
ticularly in braijil-wood and precious stones. Being appointed court banker he rapidiv
increased his fortune. This generous man, however, did not, with a parsimony usual
in persons who have enriched themselves by conunerce, consign his money to his coffers,
or sparingly distribute his largesses; on the contrary, while living, he remitted large
sums of money to his native town, and being unmarried, and having only distant rela-
tions, left his country his heir. The following is a list of the sums which he gave awav,
either in charitable donations, or for the improvement of Neuchatel.
From the year 1771 to 1786, 1001. annually for the poor of Neuchatel, and the
same sum for those of \'allengin, which, for fifteen years, amounts to 30001. Different
sums at various periods, and for divers uses, to January 1785, amounting to 15,9001.
To this must be added the purchase of near 7000 tickets in die lottery towards raisin"-
a fund for building and endowing an hospital, which tickets he also presented to the
said hospital. He died on the .31st of May 1785 ; and the remains of his fortune, be-
queathed to his country, after the payment of a i'vw legacies, did not fall short of I()0,0001.
which, together with the contributions in his liie-iinie, render his benefactions equal to
almost 200,0001.
His grateful country obtained from the king of Prussia the title of baroa in jiis fa
vour; a title which, through his singular modesty, he neither bore nor used in the sig-
nature of his letters. The citizens of Neuchatel have placed the |)ortrait of this generou^
benefactor in one of the apartments in which government assembles, and iiavj (irdcrcfi
a marble bust to be executed for the new town-house.
* Capiloii iintiioi/ii'.' s..\uiM. Virc'ii,
;nr.
')XF, 5 in \\F. 1.3 IV oWI I <;EIU. \ Ml.
li:ttku xlm.
Exjtcdttion to Lock and C/iau.v di- J''ofid.
.W'uclitttt'ly September 11,
I AM cluiiincd with an expedition to i\\Q summit ol' the Jura, and uill }^ive you a
short acf.oimt ol' it, while the impression remains warm upon m) mind.
'I'hc prineipaht} ol" Xeuehatcl and N'allensiin slretelics from the lake to the limits of
Franche Conite, eontaining in length, from north to south, about twelve leagues, and
about six in its greatest breadili. The distriet ol" Neuchatel (jccupies all the plain, to-
gether with the lowxrjiarts of the mouDtaiiis ; while N'alkngin is totally enelosed within
the Jura. Paralkl ehains ol" the Jura run from east to west, and form, in the most ele
vat(.d parts, several valleys. The lower groiuids ol' this ehain are aral)le lands and vine-
yards : the higher eonsist ol" large traets ol" forest, whieh in many parts ha\ e been ekared,
and eonverled into considerable pastures, intermixed with some fields of barley and oats.
But the singular genius and industr} of the numerous inhabitants, particularly demand
the attention of every curious traveller.
We passed through Vallens'in, the capital of the distriet ; a small open burgh, with a
modern castle built on some ancient ruins ; and then crossed the Val de Ruz, containing
above twenty villages, situated at the foot of the mountains which border the valley :
the inhabitants in general are employed in agriculture, some few excepted, who follow
occasionally the mechanical arts. \Wc arrived about mid-day at LaChaux dc Fond, a
large handsome village lying in a broad valley which reaches to Franche Comte : fron\
thence we proceeded to Locle, through a continued range of pleasing cottages, which
skirt both sides of the road, and are scattered likewise over the country.
La Chaux de Fond and Locle, together with the districts belonging to them, may
contain about six thousand inhabitants, distinguished for their genius, industry, and skiil
in the mechanical arts. They carry on an extensive traffic in lace, stockings, cutlery,
and other articles of their own manufacture ; but particularly excel in watch-making,
and every branch of clock work. All sorts of workmen necessary for the completion
of that business, such as painters, cnamellers, engravers, and gilders, are found in those
\illages, where, upon an average, about forty thousand watches are yearly made. The
genius and industry, indeed, observable upon these mountains, exhibit a scene uncom-
monly pleasing ; as every individual is sure, not only of obtaining a comfortable main-
tenance, but also of soon placing his children in a w ay of procuring their own livelihood ;
the people marry very earl}-.
Not many years ago the greater part of these valleys was almost one continued forest,
but the wonder-working powers of industry have happily changed the scene into flou-
rishing villages and fertile pastures. The increaj^e ol population will appear from the
following fact : formerly the produce of the country was more than sufficient for the
consumption of the inhabitants; at present, akhofgh considerably more cultivated, it
scarcely furnishes an eighth part of the j)rovisions necessary for interior consumption;
the remainder is drawn from Franche Comtc. And i.o wonder; for beside the na
tural eft'ect of their Irecjuent and early marriages, even stranger, who brings a certiti
cate of his good behaviour, is at liberty to stttk, ane' ioUow any trade withijut the least
restriction. Here no apprenticeship is necessary, nothing is contraband, and industry
exerts herself untaxed.
A.N I) IS ] HE C.OVS I ii
01 Ml 1. (.l!i;,OV!;,
m ,
BcskIo those particular arts I l.rtvr already nicntional, stvoral ii.habilaiil.s of Locl<
and La Cl.aux dc lond arc mil skilled in r.tjur Im.nclus o\' naclnnical science, aiv'
have invenU( iisthil matliematiral and astronoinieal iiistninienfs. Ainon<r those uli^
have cnunently distn.^aiislud tliemselve.s in this uav, is the lanunis J.n.K t Ihoz ;vJio i.
nou-at lans, andNvliosc son ixhihited in JOn-land'several aiiK.u.aii.ai liPinvs of a verv
singular and surprisin.^;- ronstruetion : one playul upon the hiiipsielu.rd? anotliLT dreu-
landscapes, and, uhat is still more extraordinary, a thin! copied am uoid pa.enud to
It, or urotc down vvliatever was dictated I)y any oC the con.panv. ' These ;irc- eertainh
wonderhil inventions, and seeni to exalt the powers of nieehan'i.ni ; hut still thev in-
mere toys, and an ninvoi thy waste of ,^rrcat (renins : it is Swift niakiu"- liddks. IIow
much more laudably, and with erpial success, might the same talmt's and aiu'liealion
have been exerted m improvm.ir, oraddiuKto, those instruments and apparatus uhieii.r.-
necessary to the astronomer and natural philo.opher !
The origii, of watch-making in tlu se parts, as ivl",tc d bv M. Osteru aid, the historio
grapher ol these mountains, is extremely curious; the 'truth of hisaceouni was eon-.
irmed to mc by several artists both of Lode and La Chaux de Fond. In 1679 one of
the inhabitants brought Irom London a watch, which Ixin,;^ out of order, he entrusted
it to Daniel John U.chard. of La Safrnc Hichard, after cxaminiuK^ the mechanisin
with great attention, determined to attempt making a watch from the model before him •
but being destitute ol every other resource than the powers of his own native Lrciius he
employed a whole jxar in inventing and linishing the instruments previously necessarv '
and m six months from that period (by the sole force of his own penetrating and per"
severing talents) produced a complete watch. But his industry did not stop here -be
sides applying himsell successfully to the invention of several new instruments useful for
he perfection o his work he took a journey to Geneva, where he gained considerable
miormat.on m the art. He continued for some time the only watch-maker in the e
parts; but business increasing, he instructed several associates', by whose assistance he
was enabled to supply from his smgularshop all ihcdemands of the neighbouring country-
I owards the beginning of the present century he removed to Lode; where he died in
1 /41, leaving five sons, who followed their father's occupation. The knowled-e and
practice of the art gradually spread itself, is now become almost the universal occimatio
fn these'momSns."" '"'^ ' "'"^ "'' ^'''"''»^"' '"""' "^ '^'' «^"J'"'^^^'"" "^^^'^^'^'^'^
The inventive genius of this mechanical people discovers itself upon all occasions
Nvhere it can be api,hed to the purposes of their convenience and accommodation." I'o
give an instance : the rocks in most parts of the Alps being exceedinglv hard and solid
he wate s usua ly make their way along their sides, and rush down in perpetual torrents
but the strata whid) compose the Jura being less firm and compact, the rains and meltecl
tiow penetrating into the crevices from subterraneous channels, and issue in rivulet
at the bo om of the mountains. The peasants, availing themselves of this peculia y
u^inh^r f ""f^°V^'' ^"^^^^••'•^'"^o"^ ^l^^""^^-!^, with much labour, tricted miHs
ich are turned by the descending torrents. They liave constructed wheels in places
^rf '^^^^;'""^=^^^'^'^.^'>' practicable, inventing new modes of scaf^blding, and a great
>ar ety of other ingenious contrivances in order to facilitate their work. "^
1 he natives are exceedingly courteous to strangers who visit their country. Thev
are in general well informed in several branches of knowledge, and, as they usuaUv
employ heir leisure hours in reading, many of the villages contain circulating lib 'arks
I he houses are plaistered and whitewashed; though small, are commodious anduTii
vol.. V. Sj jj
318
oneV. inwri." in sn-i r::i:in. \Nn,
built, iiM(l iiuni.hcd will, a ckf^nTO of neatness, -and ivcn dcgancc, peculiarly sinking i.'-
tliesL- SI (iiK stead mountains. , .- ,
The I'.ek which fuinis the base of the Jura, i> mostly eumposed ol ralcareous stont .
,nd perhaps there is no spot in lanope uhue such large (luant.i.es ol petrilied shells
•and marine plants are Ibund in so small a space. Near Lode 1 observed a r.d,'c ol
hills, that secme.l to consist entirely oipicrres arI)orisecs. or stones bearmg the impression
" Sueh'ncrfeet ease and plenty reigns throughout these mountains that I scarr.rly saw
„nc ol>ieet of poverty; the ru.lural .fleets of industry under a in.ld and erpntable go-
vernmenl. It is of t'hcse vullies, and of their inhabitants, that Uonsseau gives bo en-
..hantiuLr a description in his letter to D'Alembcrt. ,. v- . i i>- i
In ix'lurning we had a most siiblime prospect of the lakes ot Neuchatel, liiennc and
Morat, with die high and rugged chain of Alps stretching from tlie^ cantons of Berr.
•.md Friburgh, as far ;is the \ allais, and the mountams ol Chablais. 1 am, &(-.
LT/ITKH XL\'II.
Ciovernvient vj Xcuchutcl.
W'YY.W die extinction of the kingdom of Aries or Burgundy, Neuchatel was go-
^ erned b". a succession of pcttv sovereigns. The direct line failing, the country was
nossessed bv a collateral branch, the counts of Friburgh, in opposition to the coums
of Chalons, who claimed it as liege lords. On the extinction of the male ine it was
tnnsferred to die familv of Hochl^erg, and the heiress of this house conveyed it in mar-
riloc to Louis d'Orleans, duke of Longueville (1504.) His last descendant, Mary
d'Orleans dutchess of Nemours, dying in 1707 without issue, numerous claimants ap-
nc'ired • but die right of Frederic die First, king of Prussia, as heir to die house ol
Chalons, ^vas acknowledged by the states of the country, and u now forms p:irt of the
l^-ussian dominions. r .- c
Neuchatel is also an ally of die Helvetic Confederacy, by means of treaties ot com-
bur'diership with Soleurc', Bern, Friburgh, and Lucern.
The constitution of Neuchatel is a limited monarchy. 1 he maclime of this govern-
ment is indeed actuated by such nice springs, and itb motions are so exceedingly com-
•jlicated, that a stranger cannot readily distinguish, with any degree of accuracy, the
Sircrogatives of the sovereign, and the franchises of the people ; piirtioular y as some
f ven of their most important privileges depend upon mutual accimescenee and immenio-
I'i'il custom, and not upon written laws. I shall endeavour, however, to trace the prin-
cipal features of this govcrnnunt, the result of my best inquiries during my continuance
lit Neuchatel. .,,.,., • i »• i
Upon his accession Frederic the First signed and ratified certain general articles,
which in a great measure established the prerogatives of the prince and the liberties ol
the subject. Beside these general articles, others were added at the liacification ol 1 768,
which terminated the dispute between the sovereign and subject. By diis pacihcation,
•>ie kinp- not only renewed his assent to the general articles, but also explained them,
^\herever their tenor had been mistaken ; expressly confirming also several other privi-
leges in favour of die people, which had hitherto been equivocal, or not duly observed.
"The most important of these general articles arc : , ,• , ,
1 The so\ ereign promises to maintain the reformed religion as by law established ;
,rd'to tolerate no other sect, except within the districts of Landeron and Greasier, where
\.v!j IN liir: vouNTnv or int r.nisoN
Ml;
'iKiMg I.
s stone ;
:d shells
rid^c ol
ssion
iprcs
c('\y suw
t;il)U; !^o-
L's bo en-
;nnc, and
1 of Berp.
I was go-
intiy was
ic counts;
inc it was
it in mar-
nt, Mary
mants ap-
: house ot"
):irt of the
:s of com-
lis goveni-
ngly com-
jracy,
the
y as some
imniemo-
z the prin-
jutinuancc
al articles,
liberties of
n of 1768,
aeification,
ined them,
)lhcr privi-
' observed.
stablished ;
sier, where
'.he Latliolie religion isdi.minant. 2. No person but a native (jf the euunliy r-, i;apal)l(
of holding any civil or niilitaiy charge, excepting tliat of governor, who may be a f(.«
leigner ; and the stnie incapacity is extended even to natives, who are in the "service o!
a foreign prince. 3. All tli'' snlijuis have a right to enter into the service of a foreign
powir, pvovidid that poueris not in actual war against the prince, as sovereign of \en
chatil; ;ind if tlie .so\ercigii should be engaged in hostilities which do not cuncern
Neuciiatel, iliat M:ite may continue neuter, except the Helvetic body should be involved
in the contest. •• -l. ju.stiee shall be eijuitably administered; and for this purpose, tin
three states of Neiic jmtcl and \'allengin slial'l be annually assembled, r^. The magis
trates and othcersof justice, instead of holding their employments during pleasure, shall
enjoy them durini,- their gor.d behaviour. Ry the late pacification it was furtlier agreed,
that the prince is not himself the judge of their good behaviour ; and they caimot be dc
prived of tlieir places, unless they are fidly con\icted of malversation in oflicc, by cer
tarn judges atNeuehatel appointed for that purpose. 6. The sovereign shall take the
accustomed oath upon liis accession, and promise to maintain all the rights, liberties,
Iranehiscs, and customs, written or unwritten.
It is remarkable, that one of the most essential rights of the subject dei)ends upon im
memorial usage ; for that " the sovereign shall be considered as resident only at Neu-
ciiatel," is in the number of their unwritten immunities. Now this privilege, in eon
junction with the third article, forms the basis of their civil liberty. By the former, the
prince when absent can only address his subjects through his governor and council of
•state, and no subject can be tried out of the countrv, or otherwise than bv judges ap
pointed by the constitution: by the latter, should the king of Prussia beat war with all
iMiropc, the peojjle of Neuehatel and Vallengin arc by no' means obliged to arm in hi.^
defence ; but individuals may even serve against him, so long as the powers whom, thev
serve are not engaged in the hostilities against their country.!
Beside these general articles, that comprehend the privileges of the people at large,
there arc others which the sovereign is equally bound to maintain, relating to the touTi
of Neuehatel, and the district of Vallengin in particular.
The prince confers nobility, nominates to principal onicesof state, both civil and mi-
litary, and appoints the chatelains and mayors, who preside in the courts of justice. His
revenues, which scarcely amount to 5,0001. a-year, arise from certain demesnes, from a
small land-tax, from the tithes of wine and corn, and from the tenth of the value on
the sale of immoveables. With regard to commerce, no subject pays any duties either
of importation or exportation, except for foreign wines imported into the town of
Neuehatel.
* The last clause ol'ihls article is not so clearly wonlud us it migia have been ; from a ddirary, I sup-
pose, of nut expressly stipulatii.ij, that tl.e state of Neucimcl and Vallenfjiii may oppose their sove-
reii>i. by ani.s, m case tiie Swisi should be enKii;,'ed in war against him. It is evident, however,tiu.t
they consider their connection uiih the Helvetic body as of superior oblisration to that with theii-
prince, as sovereign of \euchatel and Vallengin.
The remarkable clause in question is as follows :
Kt qu'ei. omre el rouronn.nneni a des articles e.xpres et formels dcs franchises tunt do Uibour4-ooisic
dc \eu rha el.jue de ce le de Vallengin, cet Etat ne puisse eue engage dans aucune guerrt> ni les
sujets d ice 111 obliges d y marcher, que ce ne soil pour la propre guerre du Prince, c'est a dire, pour
la de once de 1 Ltal, et pour la guerres que le Prince pounoil avoir tn tant (,ue souverain de Neuf-
chalel el non aulrcmeiu : en sorte que s'il avoit guerre pour raison de quehiue autre Ktat, terres et
scigneunes, 1 hiat de Neulchatel ne sou point oblige d'y entrer ; mais en ce cas devra demurer dans
la ncmraliue, a moms .pie lout le corps Helveii.pie en general n'y prit pari et interet.
t When Henry, duke of LongueviUe, and sovereign of Neuehatel, was, in 16.50, sent to the r
of \ incennes. lelix de Mareval, captain of the Swiss guards, kept guard in his turn, though lu-
citizen ol Neuehatel, at the duorof the prison in which his sovereign was .•oiiliiir-l
istlc
was
.) >I 2
820
COXE'S in. A \ El- r.N SU I l ZLIlLANf*.
During- tiic absence of the priiici.', he is represciUed hy :i governor of his own appoint
inp, who enjoys consiclerahk' honours, hut is extremely hnutccl in his authority. He
convokes the tlirec estates, presides in that :i.s>en\hly, and lias the casting vote when
the suffrages are equal ; he enjoys the power in criminal cases of pardoning, or of mi
tigaling the sentence. In tiie governor's absence his place is supplied by the senio;
counsellor of st- te.
The three estates of Neuchatel form the superior tribunal, and receive appeals from
the inferior cfjurts ol' justice. They are composed of twelve judges, divided into three
estates: the first consists ol' the four senior counsellors of state, whoarc noble; the se-
cond of the four chatelainsuf I^anderon, Hoiidr\, V^il de Travers, and Thielle ;'^ and in
case of absence, their i;lace is suppli*.d by the resi'ietive ma} ors in the principidity of
Neuchatel, according to a regulatid order; the third is composed of four counsellors
of the town ol' Ncuchatil. The jndgis in liie first a\k\ second division hold their
places for life ; those in the third ;!re appointed anmiaily. This body ordinarily assem-
bles every year in the month of May ; I'ut is conwke'l extraordinarily upon particular
occasions; the town of Neuchatel is always i!ic place of meeting.
The three estates are not die representatives of the people, or do they possess die
legislative authority. They are, properly speaking, the supreme court of judicature,
whlcli receives all appeals, and decides finally all causes, even those relatingto the sove-
reignly of the country ; a power which they exercised in the year 1707, upon the ex-
tinction of the direct line in the person of the dutchess of Nemours.
It ma}- be litre not unworthy of remark, that the three estates decided the famous
cause of the succession in 1707, as a process between the several claimants of the sove-
reignty. But if (in failure of claimants) a new sovereign was to be chosen, or a new
I(jrm of government established, the question would no longer be considered as ame-
nable to a court of judicature, but would be referred to die people assembled by means
(if their representatives.
The council of slate is invested with the ordinary administration of government, su-
perintends the general police, and is entrusted with the execution of the laws. The
numbers nominated by the sovereign are not limited in number. The prince exercises
his authority by means of diis council, in which he is always considered as personally
presiding : the power of the president is only to convoke the assembly, to propose the
~.»d)ject of their consideration, to collect the votes, and to decide when the voices are
ivjual. The crdinances of the council arc previously communicated to the ministraux
of Neuchatel, who are to certify that they contain nothing contrary to law.
The town of Neuchatel enjo\s very considerable privileges : it has the care of the
police within its ou n dii-trict, and is governed by its own magistracy, consisting of a
threat and Little Council. I will not trouble you with a detail of the several depart-
ments ; but 1 cannot omit mentioning the ministraux, because the members of that body
Ibrm the third estate on every act of legislation. The ministraux are a kind of com-
mittie from the council of the town, entrusted with the administration of the police.
rhe\ ecjnsist of the two presidents of that council, four master-burghers drawn from
tlie Little Council, and the banneret, or guardian of the people's liberties. The presi-
dent ind master-burghers are changed ever}- two years; the banneret is chosen by the
,:5enen'l assembly ol' tlie citizens, and continues in office during six years.
* Thf pi iiicipiility of Ncucliutcl is divulcd into u ccrt.un mimbcr of districts, some of which arc
(itnomiiKiVfd < iuUilkiiR";. uiid others tiKvvoialties. Tlic chiefs of the foinier are culled chateluins,
.••id uf the littler iiuiyors; in every otlur rcbiiCi'l tlu'ir oiUce and power is the sumo.
AND IN Tirii «Ol'NiKV 0 1' llli; uKIIiONS'
02 1
appuiwt
tv. He
>tc when
r of mi
c scnio;
als from
Uo three
; the sc-
* and in
polity of
Linsclloi's
old their
y assem-
(ariicular
jscss the
dicaturc,
the sove-
i the cx-
e famous
the sove-
or a new
I as ame-
)y means
ncnt, su-
•s. The
exercises
(ersonally
)pose the
oices are
linistraux
re of the
tmg of a
il depart-
that body
. of com-
le police,
wvn from
'he presi-
en by the
which arc
chateluins,
Tlie legislative authority is so (:om|)li(attd, tint ii uoukllu. nocasy task todilcniiliir
precisely where it al)s(ilutciy rtsidcs. I*irh;ips mi aciuunl ol liie jjcrsous eonceriud,
and of the forms observed, in enaetini; and prun\nlgating law s, n»ay assist in clearing tlu
difficulty.
As soon as the causes are decided bv the three estates assemble d in the month of May,
thefour judges who for nuhe third estate retire, andiire su|)plie(ll)y the linn* ministraux.
The attorney-general then desires the menjbers of the three estates f')liike into conside-
ration whether it is necessary to frame any new laws'^ When a new ordinance is proposed,
a dech'ration is drawn up and delivered to the council of state for thiir d( TiberatioM,
whether it is contrary to the prerogatives of the prinee, or to tlu' rights of the subject .'
From thence it is communicated to the council of the town, in oriUr to bi: examimd.
whether it infringes the privileges of the citii'.ens. If adojjted by die (^uneil of state
and the council of the town, it is proposed to the jjrincc for his approbation or rejection :
in the former case, it is again pul>!iely read before the three estates, and the governor
or president declares the approbation of the sovereign. It is then promulgated, or, as
the expression is, passed into a law by the three estates.
Since the accession of the house of Hrandcnburgii, the people of Vallcngin are always
consulted upon the framing of a new law. For this purpose the three master-burghers
of Vallengin examine, whether it contains any thing inconsistent w iih the franchises ot
that district? in which case they have the power of remonstrating to the go\ernor in
council.
From this detail it should seem, that the legislative authority resides conjunetiveh- in
the prince, the council of state, and the town ; that the people of Vallengin have a kind
of negative voice, and that the three estates propose and promulgate the laws.
Every year, at the conclusion of the assembly of the three estates of NcucIkucI, those
of Vallengin, as consntuting the supreme court of judicature for that countr}-, meet at
Vallengin, and decide finally all appeals from the inferior courts of justice. ' The iiisi
of these three estates is formed by the same four noble and senior counsellors, who sir
in the first of the three estates of Neuchatel ; the second by four m.iyors of the countv li
Vallengin; and the third by four members of the court of ju^^tiee of Vallengin, r.onii
nated by the mayor of \'allengin. The governor, or, in his absence, tlic senior eoiui
sellor presides, as in those of Neuchatel. The three estates of \'aller,gin have no infer
ferencein any act of legislation : the laws which have been framed or anuiidid ai Wti
chatel being simjily remitted to them by the solicitor-general, and publicly read.
The people of Vallcngin assemble every three years in an open plain, to elect tluii
three master-burghers, who arerehpeetively chosen from the inhabitants (-I'tlic Ijnrph o)
Vallengin, of the Viil de Ruz, and of ilie uiunntains. The function ol tiiese n;a;-,t( r-
burghers is to watch over the general interests of the people ; they are also in some case-
deputed to Neuchatel by the people, whenever they are sunmioned by the go\ernor and
council of state, in relation to any affair which particularly concerns their country.
The principality of Neuchatel and Vallengin is divided into a certain number'of dis
tricts, each of which has its criminal court of justice. The great circumspection ob
served in the judicial proceedings may sometimes fa\ our the escape of the criminal ; bu*
the few instances of atrocious crimes prove that his humane caution is no encourage
ment to transgressors, and is a strong presumption of the general good morals which
prevail among the people. In a word, personal liberty is almost ""as tenderly and as
securely protected by tJie law^s of this country, as by those of our own invaluable c".!*.
stitution.
■ f MM
oxi'/r. vKAvi.j.s i\ swrr-r.i'.i.AM;,
Whtn the criminal is arrested, he is iiniiKdiatcly hroupht to iruil ; alter which ttic
sentence is read to him in priscjn. The next moininj^- ht ajriin appears l)erore hi:i judKes,
asseir.hled in the open air ; the iormer proeec din)-s on tiie trial arc read, and the jnd^'es
onre more deliver their opinion. In capital sintcuees, the j;overiior is uistaiuly ac-
fjnainted with the (tireumstanees of thr crime, and if he does not remit or solteti the
pimishment, the sentence is immcdiatily i xeeuied. 1 am concerned to ad<l, that torture
(ihough seldom used) is not ahsolutely abolislied.
Such are the mineral outlines ol'Uiis remarkable constitution, hy which tl>e hl)ertics
of the people are as well, and perhaps better, secured than in the democralical cantons;
for although the most despotic prince in dermany is sovereign, his power is exceedmgly
litnit(d. Among the striking circumstances which characterise this government, must
be mentioned the very liberal encouragement given to strangers who settle in the coun-
try. Tluy enjoy c\er\ possible privilege of traile and commerce, and in no state are
fewer essential distiuci'ions made between strangers and natives. I have alrc'ady ob-
served to vf>u the good etl'ccts of ihis enlarged policy on the population of Neuchatel
and \'allc ligin ; whereas a narrower ai\d tnore contracted principle in some of the neigh-
bouring Swiss cantoi\s, has cceasioned, and continued to occasion, a very manifest dc-
< rease of inhabitants,'^
LlVrTEK XLVIII.
Route from PontarlUr tn Xeurh(ifcl....Vitlli-!/ of Trovers.... Jnecdotat of Rousseau...-
hie of St. Peter hi the Lake of liienne.
Xeueliatel, October 1785.
I NOW write to you a second time from Neuchatel, at the interval of nine years sinct
the date of my former letters ; on the preceding occasion I went from Granson to Neu-
chatel ; to-dav I came from Pontarlicr, a small town in Burgundy.
From Pontarlicr I ascended gently by the side of the Dou, here a small rivulet bub-
blingin die vale, ciuittcd that stream and passed under a bold rock, on which stands the
castle of Joux forming a picturesque landscape ; it has a garrison of invalids, and com-
mands the narrow valley leading into Burgundy. Near it the road is divided into two
branches ; one leads directly to Joigne, and the other to Neuchatel. In about two
hours we observed a stone, which separates France from the county of Neuchatel.
Soon afterwards we mounted an eminence, looked down upon the beautiful valley of
Travers, and descended to a narrow pass, which is guarded by a chain fastened to tlic
rock, bearing the date of 1772. History, however, makes mention of a similar cham
at a much earlier period, particularly in 1476, when Charles the Bold, havmg uteftcc-
lually attempted to force the pass, marched with his army to Joigne, and besieged Gran-
son, where he was defeated.
Having descended to St. Sulpiec, I visited the source of the Reus, which issues at the
foot of a rock in five copious springs, that form a large body of water, and turn several
mills. I was accompanied to this picturesque spot by an inhabitant of Fleurier, a neigh-
bouring village. Speaking of the increase of industry in these parts, he informed mc
that thirty years ago Fleurier contained only three watch-makers, whereas at present
above a hundred were settled in that place. He added, that notwithstanding the eon-
stant influx ol" strangers, hands were still wanting for the numerous trades which are
carried on with great success in these parts.
•Of all tlic states of Switzciluml, Ncucluitcl luis hiihcrto alone escaped tlic veyolutionary vortex ,
n hiippy circmnbtance, which it owes lo the ucuiralily of its sovereign tlie king of Prussia.
AN I) I *■ I II I. tM-'Ninv Oh :ui: (.mson,
tiJ
1 conlintud titonf;' llic lilf^lt ro.id kiidinp to NtiK'li.iti I, tlir.nij;h iIk- biwutil'iil ami ro
maiitif vall(-\ ol' 'leavers, uaiuvd In ilic Kviin, al>')'.iM(Uii}^' in iIkj iumsI iVrtiL pastures,
bortkrttl h) hills gtiuly risin}^ from the hanks of tin- rivtr, anil bLaiitifiili}' spiinkliil
with wood. I passed tliroii{;h luany luat villages, particularly li uvcrtssr, Com* t, Tia-
vers, and Noiraj^uc, w litre I (jiiiittd ihi.' \allcy, and inttrcd the narrow pass ofChisc'ltc.
From hinci' tin- road (raMrsts an abrupt and wo.idy country alonj^' the sides of preci-
pice's, the Ileus roilinj^bincadi in adccpchanntl. At the snjall villaf^c of Hrot, apUas-
inj^ vii:\\ of the lake of Wiulialel and the adjacent countr} opened gradually, as 1 de-
scended and joined the road kadnig Iron) (iransfjii toNiuehatel.
I did not (luit the v.illey of Travers without paj ing a \ isit to Moitier Travers, rendered
nieinorable by the rtsitlentx of Housseau, who being driven first from Geneva, and
afterwards from Y\erdui\ bj- the government of Ikrn, found a refuge from civil and
theological persecution in this secluded \alley, under the protection of lord Ke idi, go
vcrnor of Neuchatel. The dwelling-house of this singular man is i imall wooden build
iiig at the furth.tr extremity of the \illage, near the road which leads to Fleurier, and is
now occupied In Mr. Martinet, mayor of the valley, a sensiljle old gentleman, who live<l
in habits of great intimacy with the philosopher oi'Cieneva.
The room chiefl) occupied by Uousseau is a small bed-chamber, which out of respect
to his memory, is left in the same stale as \vhen he lived there. In a corner near the
window is a kind of recess formed by tivo book-cases, and a simple deal plank naching
from one book-case to Uic other, on which he was accustomed to write. Uousseau ad-
mitted company into this room ; but suflered no one to enter the recess, from a sus[)icio n
that they would overlook his |)apers. He used also to frecjucnt a .small open gallery in
the front of the house, enclosed at die extremities with planks, in which were peep-holes
for the purpose of rcconnoitcring those persons who came to visit him, that he might give
his orders whether they should be admitted or refused. Here wc walked and read.
During his residence at Moitier, from 1762 to 1765, by frequently saimtering into the
fields and on die neighbouring mountains, he acquired a taste for the stui'.y of botany,
which he never intermitted, and always styled his peculiar delight. During this period
of his life, he issued from this secluded corner his Lettre a I'Archevecjue de Paris, his
Lettrcs Ecrites dc la Montague, and some other works ; in w Inch he displays those won-
derful powers of invention and description, that fascinating }et declamatory elocjuence,
that glow and animation of style, that fondness for paradoxes, that reverence ibr the
scriptures, and }ct those perverse doubts of their authenticity, tijosc lil)eral yet levelling
principles of government, that keenness of irony, and that motley mixture of sophistry
and argument, which cheejucrand characterise all his writings.
Rousseau, on his arrival at Moitier, ajjpeared in a common dress, b\]t soon afterwards
assumed an Armenian habit; either, as he himself alleged, because that mode of cloth-
ing was adapted to the disorder with which he was afflicted; or from that afllctation of
singularity which seems to have marked his character in every period of his life.
Through lord KeiUi's intercession, the king of Prussia offered Rousseau a pension of
1001. per annum, which he declined from his aversion to the least shadow of depen-
dence; preferring to copy music for his livelihood, rather than accept an obligation
even from so great a sovereign ; and he used to boast that he could daily earn a guinea
by that occu|)ution.
Rousseau took his repast usually alone ; though he would sometimes, but wry rarel}-,
accept an invitation from M. Martinet to dinner or supper, particularly w hen lord Keith
I)assedu weekac Moitier Travers for the purpose of visiting him. On these occasions
he was remarkably agreeable and lively ; being naturally of a social disposition, he con
I
i2i
( OXL a Tlt.WLLS IN aWirZEnLAND,
vcrud \miIj great spirit and animation, and yet uith as much correctness as if dictating
furthf pass.
Houssiaii hiinis to have trusted cntinly to his own ju(l^!;mcnt ; blill^^ so itnputirnt ol
contridictioti, th.it he would never listen to the admonitions of his friends, and seldom
askid adviee uidi :in nitention of adoptinp^ it. Ilavinp; linislud his celebrated letter to
thearchl/ishopol" I'aris, he read it to M. iSlartiiiet, and demanded his advice relative to
'he pidilication. 'I'he mayor, thoui^h struck with the fire and spirit oi the raillery, yet
could not avoid representing; to him that his letter, however lorcil)ly written, would
jieMr make a convLrt of the archhishop ; that he would only he entauf^led in endless
oontruvirsies, and draw upon himself much oblixpiy and ill-will: " Your advice," re-
furnul Uousseau eahnly, '• is a little too late ; it is already published:" and immedi
it< ly presented to him a printed coj)y of ihe letter u hieh he had just read to hint in manu-
«cii|it.
He derived from nature an extreme mnsibility which bordered upon weakness; he
icemstohuve \\ii;t«d one proof of a >;reat mind, that of receiving an oblif^ation, and to
have possi SSI d sueli pride and sorim ss of temperas rendered it impossible to serve him;
fnr he frt(|iiently construed a bi.nclii into an injury. His extreme sensibility was irri-
• at(.d and augmt^nted by a troubUsome and painful disorder, which preyed upon his
>;onstituli(;n, and at tinies rendered him unfit for society. To this complaint, in con-
junction with that mtreiless pi.rse(ution which he repeatedly endured should be attri-
buted in a }^rcat measure the rccluseness of his life, and that suspicious mistrust which
occasional!} bordered upon UKidness.
Rousseau had now continued three years at Moitier, greatly delighted with his situa-
tion, when an unexpected event induced him to quit a retreat, in which he wished to
pass the remainder of his days. Thi i event has been variously related. According to
some authors, the populace, incited by the minister of the parish, in consequence of the
scepticism displayed in his Lettres Kerites de la Montague, assembled in crouds, broke
the windows of his house, forced open the door, and entering his bed- chamber, treated
him w ith such violence, that he escaped with difliculty, and, not to become a martyr to
his opinions, (ptitted the country. According to others, neither the minister nor the
natives were exasperated against him ; but his housekeeper, the same person whom he
afterwards married, disgusted with the inhabitants, broke the windows, and persuading
her master that he was in d.mger of being assassinated, induced him to quit Moitier the
next morning : as a proof of this assertion, they affirm that one of the stones found in
the apartment was too large to have passed through the broken panes of glass.
The truth, however, seems to be, diat his pride and suspicious temper rendered him
obnoxious to many of the inhabitants ; the scepticism and infidelity in his Lettres Ecrites
de la Moiitagnc raised a party against him ; some of the people occasionally insulted
him ; the minister of the parish summoned him before the consistory ; he declined ap-
pearing ; die council of state of Neuchatel proposed condemning the al)Ove-mcntioned
publication, and even applied to the king of Prussia for that purpose. Frederic, in an
answer which does honour to his head and his heart, while he permitted them to use any
precautions which might tend to prevent the difi'usi m of sceptical opinions, yet wisely
forbade all persecution, and ensured to Rousseau a secure retreat at Moitier under his
immediate protection. Before this answer was returned, some of the populace, intoxi-
c-ated with liquor, threw stones against Rousseau's windows with such violence as to pe-
netrate into the kitchen, and to tear oft' the plaistcr from the walls ; but none of these
stones did, or could enter his bed-chamber, as that apartment was situated on the other
side of the house. This violence, however, exaggerated by the real or pretended terrors
I'
\M) IN llir lOtrSTDV 0\ I •! L •.RISON:..
02 >
ol liis li(>usikic|Hr, \v;is MiifTiciciit to alarm Itomscaii : on the next nionuiig lie rctirid
from Muiiicr, and took rtfn^iin the island of St. IVttr.
Tlie island of St. Peter, sonu times callidtlu island of La Motte, and sometimes Rons
scnu's island, lies towards the si )Utlurn extremity of the lake of liietuu. To dnsdilij^ht-
ful spot I made ai\ af^reeahle excnrwion on ti>e tth of OctolKr 17H('), in company uith
the Uev. M.de Meiiron, of Wnehatil, and thre<; Kn^lish |;entKinen. \\\- (|iiiiied Neii-
chatel in the murnin)^; passed through St. Blaise and the district ol LiixKron, and
cmbarkeil at Neuville, a small town, whieh, like Bienne, acknowledj^ea the bishop of
Basle for its liege lord, hut possesses such rights and immunities as render it an indepen-
dent repnl?lic ; it contains about twelve lunidred inluihitants. Tiie Hue weather, and
the clearness of the air, enabled us to enjoy the mild beauties of tiie view as we sailed
to the island. To the south-west wc discerned Neuville and its ancient castle, and to
the southeast admired the Julimont, an insulated hill adorned with w«)ods of oak, the
summit of which is fre(|uently visited by travellers for the beauty of the |)rospeet ; and
its name has been derived by fanciful antiou.iries from Julius Civsar. At the extremity
of a rocky and woody promontory, which stretches from the foot of the Julimont into
the lake, stands the castle of Cerlier, and beyond, at some distance, the fertile plains wa
tcred by the Thit le.
We landed on the south side of St. Peter's island, and walked through an agreeable
meadow skirted with vineyards to a large farni-house, which was formerly a convent,*
and is now inhabited by the steward of the general hos[)ital at Ikrn, to which the island
belongs.
The island is about two miles in circumference, and richly wooded w ith various shrubs
and trees, particularly with large oaks, beech, and Spanish ehesiuits. Its surface is
gently undulating ; the southern shore, covered with herbage, forms a gradual slope to
the lake ; the remaining borders are steep and rocky : in a few places their summits
arc thinly fringed with shrubs ; in others, their perpendicular sides arc clothed to the
water's edge with hanging woods. The views from the diHerent parts of the island arc
beautiful and diversified ; that to the north is the most extensive and pleasing. It com-
mands the lake of Bienne, w hich is of an oval form ; its cultivated borders spotted with
villages and castles, with the towns of Nidua and Bienne standing on the farther extre-
mity. Agreeable walks are carried through the woods, and terminate at a circular pa-
vilion placed in the centre of the island. During vintage particularly, and on Sunday,
which is the usual day of festivity, the island is filled with parties who take refreshments
at the farm-house, stray about the woods, or dance in the circular building, and animate
these romantic but solitary scenes.
Rousseau occupied an apartment in the farm-house, the only dwelling in the island.
He lived with the steward and his family, who are the present inhabitants. The w jman
informed me, that he paid for his board and lodging forty shillings a month ; that he
usually rose at six, dined with the family at twelve, and after a slight supper retired to rest
at nine. She added, he was extremely cheerful and agreeable ; conversed with the
family with the greatest ease and complacency, and conformed to their hours and
manner of living; he amused himself entirely in wandering about the woods, and
searching for plants, which he used to explain to them with singular satisfaction.
Rousseau mentions his residence in this delightful island with the highest terms of
rapture, and witlj his usual proneness to exaggeration.
VOL. V
• It was sccTiIarized ui t!ic luFuniiiitioTi
JJ
S2«
rOXF n THAVEtJ fV IWIT^RHLAND,
" 1 u';tH ptrtniiud V) rcnmin only two niniuliH in tins (Uiij^litful island , t.ut i r-f>a!(i
h»vr |).iss((i tluri- tur) yearn, twonntiMUs, all i limit) , uiihout MiUlrinj; a nu imtnt'*
• iiinii, ;iltlimif^h my whole sociiiy roiisi^lid oC ilic siiu.ird ;uul f'lniiU , ^nml hut phin
pifipii. I i«»trin» iliiM nvo moiitlis tli«.' inosi liippj piriodnl ni\ lih- ; .uicl so liiippy,
that I •dtiid have passdl my whok' (NiNtinrt.- wiihoiil ivcn a ni'iuuntary w'lsU for an-
othtr sitiiiitioii.
ll wr examinf i:i what this ( vfrcnic li.ippiiu ss con isiid, In himsi \\ informs n«., that
liis prnx'ip.il «)(( npation w.is ill doiii^ ||,ltllill^^ lie did not i'\cii iinpack his books, and
roiild srunxly prevail on hlmsi IT to read, mneh less to iinswer any Kttir. He assisted
thestiw.ird :iiid his st r\:itits at work in the vineyards and fn ItU ; satintt rul ahont the
woods, and .ittarhid hiin-.< li' entirely io hoMiiy. He proposed to wriii' a I'lora IVtrinsii-
laris, or a description of the plants m tlu isl.md ; adding on this luad, that as a (jermaii
had pulilislud a book on tlu kiiiul ot a kint^n, in the same manner he would compose
a trtatise on ea< h species of >.;r.iss, moss, and lielu ii, and wonltl not leave the most n»i-
liutc |)articlc ol vcj^elation undisciilnd. lie made oei asioiuil cNcnisions on the laki ,
sometimes coasfinj^ the shad) banks ol the island, at other tinus snflerin^j the bark t(»
float v\ithout direction: thin, to nse his own expressions, " he would lie down in tin
boat, look np to the heavens, and eontinne in that posture for several hours, enjoying
a thousand uneoiiiK end and confused, but delicious reviries." lie rre(|ucntl) roweil
to a small sandy island, which he describes as a most beautiful spot. It was one of his
};reat ainusenteiits to stock it with rabbits; and as he was convc\iii|i^, w ith j^reat pom|i,
tlic steward's family to be present at the foundation of this liiile colony, he describes
iiimsclf asKpially elated with the pilot of the Arjfon.iutie eNpediti(»n.
From these simple avocations and every day occurrences, w hich Rousseau relates W'i'.h
'.iiat enthusi;isn» and those si ntimenls peculiar to himself, he ihaws the follow iiijij re-
flections : " I have remarked, dniin^; the vicissitudes of u long life, t'- it the most de-
lightful enjoyments and most rapturous pleasures are not, upon recollection, those \vid»
■.vhich I am most allccted. Sueii fleeting moments of passion and delirium, however,
v.ipturous, are, liom their very nature, but thinly sc.ittered in the path of life. They arc
'oo rare and rapid to constitute a fixed state ; and the happiness which my heart regrets
is not composed of fugitive instants, but consists in a sin)i)le and permanent state, without
r.ipture, the duration of which increases the charm, till it finds supreme felicity.''
This slate he describes himself as jiossessing during his short continuance in the island
of Biennc ; a longer residence would probably have dissolved the charm, which was
raised by hisovvn sanguitie imagination. 'I'liat restlessness of temper, which is usually
the attendant of great gtiiius, and was his inseparable eonipanirjo, would have probably
returned, and embittered the delightful calm described with such rapture and ecstacy.
But he had not time to become disgusted with his situatnjii ; for the same intolerant
spirit which had hitherto pursued him, followed him even to this seejuestered island:
lie had scarcely passed two months before he received an order from the government
• »f Bern to depart from their territories. U<jusseau was so shocked at this nne:-.pected
'ommand, thai he petitioned to be imprisoned for life, only n fpicsling the usc of a few
books, and oecasional permission to walk in the open air. Scjuii after this exlraordiii.iry
leijuest, which shews the extreme agitation of his mind, he reluctaiiilv (piiited the island.
h does not fall within the compass of a letter to dwell upon this singular man through
the subsefiuent events of his life, or even accompany him to l^nglaiid, where, notwith-
-.tundiii;^' i!\e !nost distingnlslKd reception, Uie same perverseness of disposilion, and ilu
sfiu ts 11(1 •ot.NiUV or iiiK r. iirsn;. .1,
HJi
lilt pi I'lM
) liippy,
I for all'
ti*^, that
)\<s, and
aisistid
h'liit the
Vtriusu-
(iL-rniaii
compose
most mi-
the lake.
; bark to
111 ill tli<
iiijoyiiiK
ly rowed
nc of his
at pomp,
[k'scribts
lati s \vi»h
)uin|5 rc-
mosi dc-
losf with
however,
I'liey arc
rt regrets
, witliuut
the island
hich was
IS usually
probably
I ec?stacy.
intolerant
d island :
vernmcnt
ler'.pectcd
' of a few
loidiuary
ic island.
1 through
notwiih-
1, and the
.im>' •'M'''s>jv< dilif irv nitdered him no li«is imhipjiy, than when !<- v^.f. undtr i!v
liff-up oi rv i| i ,'\^u\\Uv->, iiid e\|)iii,ei' l< reitviii'id pefHC'tlioiis I nni, <!»'•
ij'.rrKn xux.
fim'irims nf Morat,.,, Mount rotl/tj.
|\ <ji!i u'.'V to Mot.it and Avnuhe we erosv d the rivn- Thiele. whii ii is -ni •i ii<>m (li»
lakf of N''U' li .tcl, iliMhargis iiM If iiin» thai of Hitiim, and separatesi llie priiu ipalilv <•!
NiufhaN I Irorn tlie e niton ui liun.
Mont is :i bailliage beloiurit'^ toHmiimd Iribiirgh : the reforntalion was iniroducid
in l.ViO, i)v the tn.ijoritv <ii \oi((s, in prrh» nei- ofdipntiis from \hr\\ and Kiihiirgli
'I'lie liie spirit of tlie S\\is>> govi rniiieiit>> is in no instanee in<in' n niarkaldy apparriu
than by the mf)dc whieh the) obseiAed in end)raeing or rejecting the refornjutiou : in
many ollar towns besidi Moral, the (piestion waspnt to the v<»te, aiidthe minority gf
iieraily Nu!)mittid, with perfeet a'Mjuieseenee to the drei>ir)n of the greater numluT.
Morat stands pleasantly upon the edge '»f a siiiill lake, about six milt s long, and tW4>
broad ; in the n:idst of u well cultivated eoiintiy. The lakes of Morat and Neiiehatel
are parallel to eaeli other, and separatid only by a ridge of hills; the lormi r is the n\n<\'
elevated ; for it discharges itsell l)y means of tin: river IJroje, into the lak .• of Neiieha
tel. According to l)c l^iic, it is hfieiii I'reneh feet above the levi I of diat of Neiichatcl
Hoth tin se lakes, us well as that of IJienne, form< rly exti ndid much farther than
their presi nt limits; and, from the position of the eoiinlry, appear to have been onc<-
united.
Mr. I'< ni'.ant informs me, "that the vast lish called the silurus glanus, or the salulii,
whi' h frerpients the lakes ol' Morat and Neuchatel, has not been caught here in the
memory f)f man. It is well described, and finely engraven, in Dr. Hloi'li's History ol
l'"ish<s, vol. i. 19i. tab. CA. In the time of Clisner two were taken, one of which
was eight feet long ; but some have been so large as to wc igh si\ hundred pounds. I<
is an eel-shaped fish, very smooth, round, and thick, with a great head. Tlic mouth is
furnished with four short and two long w hiskers. It is very inat;ti\ e ami slow in its mo-
tions, and lores the deep and n\uddy parts of the lakes. Tlu} are found in many ol
the great fresh waters of Kuropc, and abundantly in the Volga."
On my subsequent expeditions into these parts, 1 examined with greater attention iIk
environs of Morat, during several days, which 1 passed most agreeably at C'oujouva.\,
a scat belonging tf) the count of Dieibaeh, and at Cirens with M.de (larville, a FrencI^
gentleman, who, attaclud to the btautiesof this delightful country, has l.niilt a villa in a
pleasing situation near the banks of the lake of Morat, where he eomcs every year from
Paris to pass the sunmier. Hy these families 1 was received without any other intro-
duction th«n as being the author of Letters on Switzerland, and with that frankness and
cordiality so flattering to a stranger. I found the environs of Mf)rat. though not so
wild and roni.nitic as many other parts of Switzerland, yet extremely desirable for
a constant residence.
1 made several excursif)ns across the lake to an insulated ridge between the lakes of
Neuchalel and Morat, and enjoyed many delightful points of view. Of these various
prospects the most, remarkable is from the smumit ol Mount VuiUy, where I seated my-
self on the edge of an abrupt precipice. 1 looked down upon the lakes of Bicnnc,
Morat, and Neuehatel ; observed the Broye entering the lake of Morat, issuing from
thence, a ,J winding through u marshv plain into the lake of Neuehatel ; iheThide
5 a 2
S28
COXE'c TUAVEl,;; IN G VV I r/.EH I. A N D,
flowing JVomthc hike ol' Ncuchatcl, and hustcuiiig to fall into the lake oi Bjcnnc; the
fertile and variegated countries encireling those bodies of water, and the grounds rising
in regular gradations from plains to Alps. Hut what renders this charmuig spot moro
partieularly striking is, that it is lurhaps the only eentral point from which the eye can
at once comprehend the vast amphitheatre formed on one sid by the Jura, stretchuig
from the environs of Geneva as far as Basle, and on the other by that stupendous cham
of snowy Alps, which extends from the frontiers of Italy to die confines of Germany,
and is lost at each extremity in the immense horizon.
Impressed with this sub'lime view, I cast my eyes downwards over diat dead and ex-
tensive morass through which the Broye serpentines : and exclaimed in the language ol
poetry, which knows how to animate the dullest objects :
Qtiiitons Its bois ct Ics moiUumics
.!i! vois coulcr la Broye » utruvcrs Us rosciuix.
Son oiuli' piirtaj^cc cii diflcrcns taiiaiix
SV(;arc a\t-c. plaisir dans dc vcrlcs campai^ncs,
Kl rorinc dans la plaine ui» labyriiUhc d'caux.
Riviere tranciuille ct chcrie
Que j'aimo a suivrc Ics detours I
'Ton (lui silencieuse en son paisuble cours.
Piesente a niim esprit l'ima^';c de la vie ;
l.lle scnible immol)ile, et s'ecoule loujouis.
LETTER L.
liattle of Momt.... IFar between the Swiss and Charles the Bold, duke of Biirgun-
dij,...Its consequences.
MORAT is celebrated for the obstinate siege sustained against Charles the Bold,
duke of Burgundy, which was icilowedby the battle of Morat, fought on the 22d of
June 1476. ^\\\ this famous engagement the duke was routed, and his whole army
almost destroyed, by the confederate troops of Switzerland. Not for from the town,
and joining to the high road, a monument of this victory still remains : it is a square
building, filled with the bones of the Burgundian soldiers who were slain at the siege
and in the battle. f To judge from the (quantity of these bones, the number of the
• From a poem entitled "La Vuc d'Anet." I have followed the example of M. Sinner, in his
Voy. Hist, et Pol.de la Suisse, who substitutes the Broye for the Thielc, to which the lines in the
original are applied. , ,,t- ■ , 1 1 i • u
t In February 1798 the Bernese troops, under the command of pjcneral d Erlaeh, assembled m the
held around this ossuarv, U) delend their country aijainst the invasion of the French. General Brunc
recommended d'Erlath to surrender Morat. " My ancestors," replied d'Erlach," never surrendered ;
were 1 base cnouii,ii to interlain such a tliouj^ht, this monument of their valour," pomtmg to the
ossuary, " would deler me " Happy might it have been for Switzerland, hud the governmentof Bern
been actuated wuli the same spirit as their general.
On the 3d of Marcii t)ie Frencli troops demolished this ossuary, and the Directory thought the dc-
iiiolilion ot siilVicienl importance to be communicated to the Council of Five Hundred:
<' On the same d;>y in liie evening, the Bernese evacuated Moral, a town famous lor the battle gain-
I (1 over the Biir<:,run{iians in 1470, and for the manner in which the bones of the van(iuishcd were pre-
,vrvcd. -V trophy so iusulaling i'> the French nation could not fail to be destroyed; and, what is
^ciy remarkable, it was destroyed by the battalions of the Cote d'or, on the very day whic'.i was the
.amiversary of tin battle of Moral. A tree of liberty was immediiuely planted in the place of this
■ iionuiiienr, which the oligarchies pointed out beforehand, as destined to become a second time the
;umb i;f the I'rencii." .Message from the Executive Directory to the Council of Five Hundred,
March KJ. FiUt this coincidence of circumstances was labricated forthc cent, as the battle of Mo-
■.ut was not on iho 3(1 ot Marcb,bul on the 2:(1 of June.
According also to the Frencli accounts, tlie colours taken from the duke of Burgundy, at the
i.aiiUs of Moral and Viincy, utre found in ti>e arsenal of Soleure, mid bcnl to Paris. Monitcur, 16th
tlcrniiual (.')ih ApiiJ.}
ANi> IS T/II-; «;oi-.\'f ir, or rui: c'.izos:.
ii'2*J
3icnnc; the
unds rising
; spot moro
he eye can
, stretching
nclous chain
f Germany,
cad and ex-
languagc ol"
of Bur gun-
cs the Bold,
tlic 22d of
whole army
m the town,
is a square
at the siege
ruber of the
Sinner, in his
ic lines in thu
emblcd in the
Icneral Brunc
•surrendered ;
uinting to the
■nmentofBcrn
lought the dc-
he battle gain-
hed were prc-
; and, wliat is
whic'.i was the
e place of this
•cond lime the
'ive Hundred,
; buttle of Mo-
rgundy, at tlic
Monitcur, 16th
slaughtered must have btrn considt rablc. Among several inscrijjtions in the l.;itin and
German languages relative to that memorable victorv, I transcribe! one r)ii iK-onnt « T
its concisenebs :
Jh'o ()/)t : Max :
Carol} Inrlifti rt l''ortissinii
Jinrifun(/t,f Dticis Exircitux
Muratum ohsidnis ah Ihivitii^
CiVsus hoc sui Motiumentum rr/o/ii/f
,1un: M7(>.
This war, which Charles the Bold carried on against the Swiss with a temt:riiv |>t( iiliar
to himseir, forms a remarkable leraii.the history of thiseoimtry, and was ;.licml( d wiiu
some extraordinary eireumsiinces. From the 'time of the Ihmoiis revolniioi. in l;i()(i
which gave rise to the Helvetic confederacy, to the end of the following centmy the
Swiss republics deprived the house of Austria of all its territories situated in Swit/er-
land, and continued in possession notwithstanding the various attempts of ilu> diHerent
dukes to recover their lost domains. But of all the princes of that house Siirismond
the simple, archduke of Austria, of the branch of Tyrol, was more particuKulvcnLMuvd
in hostilities with the Swiss cantons, and their allies; for his hereditary dotnininnJin
buabia and Alsace bordering upon Switzerland, induced him to enter n'lore fn qncntly
into these disputes, than the other branch, which was in possession of the Iiuneriil
throne. ' '
In the course of these hostilities, Sigismond was compelled to cede a considerable
part of his territories to the Swiss republics ; particularly the rich country of Thnrir uj
to the seven cantons, which at that period composed the Helvetic league.* Inflamed
by these repeated losses, and the humiliating conditions of peace he was constrained t(i
accept in 1468, he endeavoured to engage some of the neighbouring pow ers in a con-
federacy against the Swiss cantons. Having first incftlctually applied to Louis the
Lleventh, king ol France, he at length addressed himself to Charles the Bold duke
of Burgundy. '
Charles having succeeded to the possession of Franche Comte, Bm-gundv Vrtois
and Flanders, together with the greater part of the United Provinces, possessed as amplJ
revenues, and as extensive territories as the most potent sovereign of his time. M;i-ri,i.
ficent, impetuous, and enterprising, he neglected no opportuiutv of aggrandixinir^his
power, and set no bounds to the projects of his restless ambition.' He formed the plan
of erecting Burgundy into a monarchy, and already in imagination appropriated to hii'n-
self Lorraine and part of Switzerland, wiiieh he pn^posed to annex bv eonciuest to his
hereditary dominions.
A prince of such a character being naturally disposed to midertake any war thai
might advance his ambitious schemes, received with eagerness the propositions of Sims-
mond, flattered that credidous prince with the hopes of receiving in marriage his daughter
Mary, heiress of his extensive dominions, and prevailed upon him, by the loan of eiditv
thousand florins, to surrender, Sundgau, Alsace, Brisgau, and the four forest towns •
promising to restore them upon the repayment of tliat sum. By this alliance SigismonJi
acquired a sum of money to assist him in his preparations against the Swiss, protected
as he thought, his hereditary dominions from their enterprises, and secured a powerful
ally against the ancient enemies of his family. The reverse, however, happened ; for
by a strange fatality, this league, which was intended to cement the union of th" rv.r
' Bern obtahied the co-regcncy of Tiiurtjau at tla- p<,acc ot Auoi, 17'?
y,:j)
■ I M .
I r,
I.I.
I N ,. w i i ..I, i; 1. -\ .N K<,
princes, ^^ ivul oiilv tn ilividc tlaiu ; and cc-i-ional the lir^l prfp. tM:il Mimics hctUTCMi
tliL' Su Us (.anions nml a prime of ih" lu)iisc (jf Austria.
CluirUs iiiM.n tiK conclusion ul tliis trcatv, infornua the cantons, that he hail taken
Si-isniond under hi> i)rotcrlion, and would drlcnd him t.) the utnmst ol his power.
Meanuhile. the baiiilV., whom he placed over his newly-;., fin nxd territories in A saec
oppus^.d the people, laid einbart^ois upon the commircc of Mulhansen and withheld
the renis of the estates helon-ini; to die Sv.lss in Sundi,^ui and Alsace.
These orievaneesheini-- laid heloiv Charles in an embassy which Bern dispatched to
his court 'in the naiiu of the confederate cantons, die duke received it with haughtiness ;
•n.d alter compellinK the di pntie.s to kneel while they delivered their remonstrance, dis-
miss, d them uithont an answer. This disdainful treatment was ill brooked by a free
peo|>lc, nnaccustoimdt.' croud. I.ef(,rc the insolence of power ; and their just indigna.
liou uassiill luore inllamed bv the artful policy (.f Louis die hlevcntn, who, jealous ol
tlie dnke of l')m!;iiiul\ 's pow.r, (nleicd into a deleiiaive alliance with the bwiss repub-
lics, in or;ltr I.) eounti rail his desis;!!-^. .,..,.
lint Louis siill lurtlur stru.t-ihenul the Swiss, by elTeetiiii;- a reconciliation between
tl, niand .Sioisuioiid, who had'iu) soonu- surrendered to Charles, Sundf^au, Alsactr, and
llK other dominions, than he became sensible of his error. The duke oj Burgundy
not onh oni.ressul his ik w subiects, but seemed d. termined, even should the eighty
thousai ul 11. -rins be repaid, to kec p possession of these conditional territories, and did not
aninar inclined to fuliil the promise of bestowing his daughter upon the archduke.
Iniluced bv these considerations, Sigismond accepted the mediation ol Louis, threw lum-
bclf under' the protection of the Swiss, and concluded the famous treaty which vvas con-
lirmed at Lucern in 1474, called the hereditary union; an appellation appropriated to
the treaties between the Swiss and the house of Austria. Sigismond renounced all
ridu to the provinces which the Swiss had eonijucred from the house of Austria ; the
two contracting parties lormed a defensive alliance, and engaged to guarantee each
other's territories. Thus the Swiss, after deprivirg Sigismond of all his possessions in
their countrv engaged to support his title to those very provinces, which he had mort-
gaged in order to strengthen his arms against them, and Sigismond accepted a guarantee
ironi the most inveterate enemies of his family. , , r
This treaty, which entirely changed the policy of die Swiss republics, was solely et-
iected 1>V the' artful intrigues of Louis the Eleventh : the jealousy of that designing tno-
inrch turned into another channel i le vast preparations of the duke of Burgundy ;
preparations wnich might have been attended with more success had they been directed
against France. i t c> •
Charles, too late perceiving die imprudence of his conduct towards the bwiss re-
publics, in vain exerted all his eiforts to engage them in a neutrality. They rejected
his proposals w ith firmness, prepared with their usual vigour for a war, whicli now ap-
neared inevitable, and even advanced the eighty thousand florins to Sigismond, who de-
inanded the restitution of his lantls, which the duke of Burgundy evaded under various
pretexts. The duke having concluded a separate peace with Louis, turned his whole
force against the Swiss, entered their country with an army of sixty thousand men, and,
laving siege to Granson, carried it by assault. But his success ended there: lor at the
su'bseciuent battles of Granson and Morat, lie was totally defeated, and his attempts upon
Switzerland entirely frustrated.* Nevertheless, his restless and ambitious spirit still
' Chiirlcs culorcd SwUzciIaml confident of .subduing thai couiUry. The effect whicli tl.is unexpected
aiidhuiniliuliiv^'disuppoiiumcntluid upon his spiiil luul coiistitulioii, is related by I', de Conunes, witl)
'. N !' I \
IE
or V 1 I! V 0 1 i Hf .. !' I; ,)NS.
«.'
hc'twccii
vul taken
is powt.T.
11 Alsace,
withheld
vatchcd t(i
ghtincss ;
ancc, dis-
hy a fret
itindigna-
jcaloiis ol
iss repub-
11 between
.Isactr, and
liiirgiuidy
the eighty
md did not
archdnke.
hrcw him-
h was con-
opriatcd to
lounced all
ustria; the
antec each
isessions in
: had mort-
i guarantee
IS solely ef-
igning mo-
Surgundy ;
en directed
; Swiss re-
i:y rejected
ch now ap-
d, who de-
idcr various
I his whole
1 men, and,
;; lor at the
.'tnpts upon
s spirit still
s uncxpcctcil
^umiiics, witli
uniubrhicd, impt lied him to attack the diikc of LorraiiU'. Hut that pfiiue, li ivim,'
eiif^agcd a body of eit^ht tiionsaiul Swiss, obtained a conipIeJe vi-t()r\ near Nanc) ;
Cliarles was slain in tlu i ngagenunt,'* atid his dealli terminated this liloodv war; 'i-i
which the Swiss gave distininiihhin;;- pr«)ofs of invincible valour, and spn ad thv fame oi
their military virtues throughout all Hm-opc, but oI)taincd no solid advanlaL'e.t In
fact, the principal and almost sole benefit accrued to Louis the l-'Jevf'Uth ; as bv the
death of Charles, In \vi\s not only released from a dangerous and enterprising rival, but
also annexed the rich provinces of Burgundy and Artois to the crown ol" I-'riince.
But although tile inuuediate advantages which the Swiss derived from the d.aih of
Charles were unimportant; yet the consef|uences operated consider.iblv on tlieir future
poliiics. Mary of Burgund}-, the only surviving child and heiress of Charles, married
the archduke Maximilian, eldest sou of the emperor Frederic the Third, and tfter^vards
emperor himself. By this marriage the house of Austria ac(|uired possession of the
Netherlands, and having lh<iiKnt disputes with Krance, the alliance of the Swiss was
strenuously courted by both parties. Thus this country, being secured from all inva
sions, acceded, as (jccasion ofllrtd, to the two rival powers, and assisted each party as
the intrigues, or rather as the subsidies of the one or the other prevailed.
These intrigues gave rise to ditK.rent alliances, contracted with the house of iVustri i,
the kmgs of France, the pope, the dukes of Savoy and Milan. N(;t to enter more mi-
nutely into their history, I shall only observe in general, that hitherto the Swiss acted with
great disinterestedness in all their treaties, and never took the field but with a view to se-
cure their liberties, or to drive their enemies from Switzerland. But about the period
of the Burgundian war, the subsidies which they obtained from Louis the Eleventh,
laijghtthem the disgraceful arts of mercenary politics; as the rich plunder which then'
gained from the duke of Burgundy gave, in some nieasurc, the first taint to their origi-
nal simplicity of manners; till, at length, Swiss venality has become a i)roverbial ex-
pression.
his usual niimucmss. in his M( nioivs aildrrssed to Ant^clo C.ittho, airhhishop of Vicnuc in Duuphinc
liis uttouut IS curious, und will irivc sonic idea of ihf vioLnit and iinputuuus cii.ir.u-li-r u\V'\ivk^:
*' His conctni and distiivftion lor his fust dciVal at (iiansoii was so ^;iTataiKl made such deep iniprf ,-
bion on hih spiiits, that li liirtw him into a violent and dan^'l•l•ous fit of sickness ; for wltcrcas heiuic his
cholcr and natural heal was so p;rcat that he dranls no wine, only in the mornint!; ho took a liuh' tiis uic.
sweetened with conserve of roses, to r.fresh himscdf; this siKhl:'.! meluncholv had so uitcrcd iiiscor.--
stiluuon, he was now iorccd to drink tin' stroiiHcst wine tiiat could ,;■• -ot, without any wale- \uU in
order to draw the hlotul from his heart, some hurniii-r tow was nut int., the cupi)ir.-..^rlasbes, and an-.
piled to his side. Kut this, my lord of Viennc, you know belter than I; for your lordship uiendedo-.
him during the whole course ot his illness, and spared no pains that mi^/iu contrihute to liis reM).crv
and It was hy your persuasion that the duke was prevailed upon to cut his heard, which was (.f\. i.r'o-
dijjious Icns^th. In my opinion his underslamlini,^ was never so perfect, nor his s.nses so sed-;:c and
composed alter this hi ol sickness as before." Uvedale's Trans. Vol. 1. n 1^ I
1 he death ol Charles at the batllc of Nancy was attended wJth some very extraordinary ciicum-'
stances; tor the particulars ol which see the curious account exlracled from' Philip de Comiiios, and
the Chronujuc bcandaleusc uf J.,hn de Troves, in Wraxal's intcrestin-.,^ Memoirs of the kim-'s of
trance ol the liouse ol Valois. '^
t " And what," says Coinines, « was tlie occasion of tiiis war r It was be>;-un on account of a ua<i.-(.ri
of sheep-skms, winch, the lord of Uomont look from aSv^lss, who was pas.inir throuj^b his (er.ituries.
spurs of Ids troops and the bits of il;eir h<,rses were v.uith more than could he furnished
r»\M-.s tcriUoiKs, m case they were conqiieri d,"
ih.'
, rnv.K'.; 1 H \\ ci-r. IN r.v'irsscn I A V :
Lr/ITEK IJ.
.bitiquUiif nf\iva\chv
\ WW lURiciit towns hu\c occasioned mon rontrovcisy aiiiuj'^ antuiuaric.s or given
• isc to such a varict\ ol conjt otiiri s conccrniiii;- tlu ir origin and nniortancc, as Avcnchc,
the nrinrinal l>ur-h'or a hailliaKa' in iIk Pays ili; \'aud. Some eontond that it was^thc
. :,|,itil „rall Hdvetia, brcansi^ Taeitus calls it Aventicuni frcntis caput : while others have
. ndcuvtuMid to prove, thi.t bv this expression tlic historian intended only to denote the
inital tow n of its particnlar district. .\i,n-ecal)le to some aeeounts, the eity was built,
nil a Roman : olnnv Ibundcd bv N'cspasian ; bnt with more probability, aecording to
.ilu rs, it was only rep-'""' fl ^''^'^^ bvantilRd by Wspasian, alter it had been laid waste, and
.inuist rnimtl, bv \'itellins.
Wiihi^ntcutirnu; into <lrv .md nniiitcrcstin|< discussions, it was formerly a very con-
.idciMblc town, anduiuUr iIk domininn of the Uomans, as appears not only Irom sevc-
al niilcstonis, Ibund in manv parts ol" die Pays dc N'aud, most of which are numbered
irom Avcnticnm, as the i)rimip.>l place of reference ; but more particularly irom the
;vascni ri.ir.s. 1 shall sli-htlv mmtion a few of these niins, merely to shew you, that
die iiiiuljitaiits do not boast of their anii(iuity without sulFieient evidence.
\Vc traced the site of the ancient walls, which appear to have enclosed a space near
fivt' miles in circumfi ivnee. The pre m nt town occupies l)nt a very inconsiderable pari
,)f this ^ronnd ; the remainder is coverid with corn-liclds and meadows. One of the
ancient'towers still exists ; it is a semicircular building, w iih the convex side towards
•he town ,. , • i i
We next examined a coarse mosaic pavement, discovered some years ago in plougli-
jng a lieki, and now in a sad state of dilajjidation, enclosed by a barn, which is let to
ome peasants ; the ignorant occupiers employ it as a drying-house for tobacco, and
sutler strangers to take' awav specimens. Kvcn the government oi Bern was so insensible
of its value, that they permitted die count de Caylus to remove a pannel, containing the
ligurcs of two Bacchanalians. ^ r . , , i
This ill. :,aic was die lloor of an ancient bath, and is about sixty feet m length anU
fortv in breadth ; the general form is perfect ; and, although several parts are broken
and'lost, yet from the prisent remains the configuration of the whole may be easily traced.
It consists t>r three compartments : those at each extremity are regularly divided into
fifteen octagons, eigiit small scpiares, and sixteen small triangles. Five of these octagons
in each compartment represented human figures in various attitudes, but chiefly Bac-
chanals ; the remaining octagons were composed of three difl'crent patterns. The va-
cant parts between the octagons arc filled with the small scjuares; and towards the out-
ward border with the small'triangles. The midd'e compartment is divided into oblong
nannels, in the largest of which is an octagon bath of white marble, of about six feet in
diameter, and a foot and a half deep ; the sides are ornamented with dolphins. Ot these
three compartments, one is almost perfect, the others much defaced. Each ot the pan-
nels is encircled with several borders prettily diversified ; and a general border encloses
the whole. ..... r i
Schmidt, in his Recueil d' Antiquites de la Suisse, ingeniously conjectures trom a glory
which surrounds the head of Bacchus in this mosaic, that it was wrought during some
part of the intervening age between Vespasian and Marcus Aurelius ; because that mark
of divinitv is not usual ujion atiy monuments of Roman anticjuity before that period.
The same'kind of glorv. he -dd-. is cbservcd upon the head of Trajan in an :\ncient painr.-
\NU iN illL L, OUMIM 01 llir. (.MSONV
si.,.
, or given
Avciichc,
it was the
thcrs have
Icnotc the
was built,
:ording to
ivastc, and
very con-
rom seve-
numbcred
: tVom the
' you, that
space near
urablc pari
One of the
je towards
in plough-
li is let to
jacco, and
) insensible
itaining the
length and
arc broken
sily traced,
ivided into
se octagons
hicfly Bac-
. The va-
ds the out-
into oblong
: six feet in
. Of these
of the pan-
ler encloses
from u glory
.uring some
ic that mark
that period.
!icient pain*-
iiig ;il I^J^l(', (ipdu lli;it of Antoninus Plus on a tncdal, and o;i iho ;iirli ol Cm^tai.
tiuf. II( stri iigthtiis this conjecture by further reiu;irkiiif;', thai the head-dress ol l
IJaochanali.iu woman represented in this mosaic resembles the lu.ad-dress on the medal"
of the empnss Plotina and S.ihina.*
From thence we were conducted to the ruins of an ancient anij)hilheatre, within th.:
walls of the bailiff's garden. The general form and si;:c of this building are t(;lerabl}'
perfect, as also parts of the brick walls which enclosed it. The diameter of the arena
was, as well as we could judge by pacing it, about eighty yards, which nnisl be an un
certain estimate, as a former bailiff brought in a considirable (juantity of earth, in ordei
to plant fruit tress ; conceiving, I suppose, that good fruit was of more value than to
be able to determine the precise extent of an ancient amphitheatre. Under a tower
partly built of Roman materials, is a eel! from which the animals were projjably let
loose upon the arena. On the outside are still to be seen the remains of live dens .
and the walls are adorned with several pieces of rude scidi)ture dilapidated.
Not far from these ruins stands a column of white marble, about fifty feet in height,
composed of large masses, nicely joined together without cement; near it lies a consi-
derable fragment of defaced sculpture, which seems to have once formed part of the
portal belonging to a magnificent temple. At a small distance from this column, in the
high road, we observed a cornice of white marble sculptured with urns and griffins ;
and as we walked through the town, we remarked several other maases of cornice, or-
namented with sea-horses and urns, and some marble columns of beautiful proportions.
Abt)ut a mile from Avenc4ie, near the village of Coppet, on the other side of a lit-
tle stream w hich separates the canton of Friburgh from that of Bern, are the remains
of a small aqueduct, discovered about fifteen years ago, by the accidental full of a sand-
hill. The outside is formed of stones and mortar, and the inside of red Koman cement ;
the vault of the arch may be about two feet and a half high, and one and a half broad.
This aqueduct has been traced to the east side of the town, and near the marble co-
lumn. We were also informed that it extends to the tower of Gausa, between Vevay
and Lausanne, and that, between Villarsel and Marnau, about four leagues from Cop-
pet, an arch of nearly the same dimensions is excavated in the solid rock.
When I visited the ruins of A.venche in October 1780, I had much satisfaction in
finding, that the bailiff, M. Techarner, paid great attention to these remains, and par-
ticularly to the mosaic. I could not avoid remarking to the bailiff, who politely favoured
us with his company, that every lo\'er of antiquity must regret, his predecessors had
not shewn the same taste. Several excavations were lately made by lord Northampton,
who has a house in the neighbourhood, and have been continued at the expence of
Bern. A coarse mosaic pavement, a few fragments of walls rudely painted, and some
trifling remains of ancient baths, are the only vestiges of antiquity hitherto discovered.
LETTER LII.
Town and Canton of Fribiirg.... Population... .Government.. ..Secret Chamber.
FRIBURG was built in 1779, by Berchtold the Fourth, duke of Ztcringen, who
endowed it with considerable privileges. Upon the extinction of the male line of the
* The curious reader will find in the Rtcucil, < itcd in the text, a very accurate dcscripton aud
engraving ol' this mosaic.
VOL. V- 5 O
8:^ 1.
coxF.'s riMVi-.r.; in r.un r.r.KLAN'P,
lu^iiv'.i /,ii1mj;u.. !i\ IJia, • Lllrir. of K\ Ijui'i.? obtaimil the sovcrci^'niy, ih rigfu ol
III-, uil ■ Amu. sistn- ot iIk l.isi dukr U ri'lunld iIk' I'il'tli. It caiuf by ininia^r into
tlu ]i()SMssinii or l-btrliiird count of II.ii)s!)uii;-L;uilKiibiiii^' ; who sold it to his fc-iisiii
RhIoI])!! oI' n.ii)->!)ur^', afti r\\;irds i inp'-ror. Dining tins period ;i continual riyalshi|)
sti!)sisiiM^r bituccn Bun and I"ri!)urLC, liny nvitc IrLciucnily tn^.i^ad in hostilities: at
kni^ll) all dilRrtncts wen. composed ; .ind'th'j two citi^ , in I KJ), concluded a perpe-
liir.l ;i!li;ince.
IViburii; contiiiu'd under the dominion of the house of Austria, and was concerned
in ;.ll dii'(juanvls in which that family was en.yajrcd with tlu Swiss repul)lics, until the
middle of the lilue- ■'•■■ ceuturv ; when, by a very sinj^idar revolution, it renounced all^
all(;;i,;mc to the arclidiike AUx rt, and piit itself undir the pnjtection of the duke of
Savoy. Irom this ;era it (jcrasionally assisted die cantons ai^ainsl the house of Austria ;
and ii) the war lutwec n tin Swiss and Charles the Hold, its troops had a share in the vic-
tories of Cfraiison and Murat. Soon after the battle of Morat, it became a free and
independent republic ; and, in 1181, was admitted a member of the Helvetic conlulc-
racv.
The situation of the town, thout,d» not one of the most beautiful, is certainly one of
the most i>ictur(s(|ue and wild in Switzerland. It stands [)artly in a small plain, partly
on bold acclivities, on a rid}j;e of rugged rocks, half encircled by the river Sane ; and
is so entirely concealed by die circumjacent hills, that the traveller scarcely catches the
smallest gliinpse, until he bursts upon a view of the whole town from the overhanging
eminence.
The fortilicati(Mis, which consist of high stone walls and towers, enclose a circumfe-
rence of about four miles; within which space the eye comprehends a singular mix-
ture of houses, rocks, diiekets, and meadows, varying instantly from wild to agreeable,
from die bustle of a town to the solitude of the deepest retirement. The Sane flows
in such a serpentine course, as to form, within the space of two miles, iivc angles be
tweeii which the diflerent parts of the currents are nearly parallel to each other.
On all sides the descent to the town is e.\tremel\ steep, and in one place the streets
even pass above the roofs of the houses. Many of the ediiiees are raised in regular
}>radation like the seats of an amphitheatre , many overhang the edge of so deep a prc-
ripiee, that on looking down, a weak head would be apt to turn giddy : and an unfor-
luiuite lover, repulsed' in his suit, miglii instantly terminate his pains, by taking a leap
from the parlour window, without die trouble ot a journey to Leucale, or to the rocks
of Mielkrie.
iiut the most extraordinary poi:it of view is from the Pont-neuf. To the north-west,
part of the town stands boldly on die sides and die piked back of an abrupt ridge; and
tVom east to west a semicircle of his^h perpendicular lOcks is seen, whose base is washed
and undermined by the winding Sane, and whose tops and sides are thinly scattered
w ith shrubs and underwo(jd. On the highest pc/int ui' the rocks and on the very edge
<-.f the precipice, appears, half hanging m the air, the gate of the town called Bour-
♦ TliL' hovisc of Zxiiiii^i'u was cU'si I'lididlVoin the luuicnt ro\int>ol' Alsace, by Ikrchuild count oi
His iviiuiib.nn, licidituhl tin- Siioiul, hiiili tlu' casilc of Zxriii!;;en, sitiiuted near u village
\vi) IS THi; lorNiiiv oi i in. ';iu'.c\.
.S.».">
1 rigfit ol
ria^r into
Ills fdiisin
rivalshi|>
ilit'u;s : at
1 a ptrpc-
oiiccrncd
utiiil tlic
iimcc d all
c (lukc of
Austria ;
ti tiu- vic-
, free aiul
; coiii'ulc-
ilv one of
lin, partly
kmc ; and
itches the
L'rhanging
circumfc-
ular mix-
agrccablc,
ianc flows
;inglcs be
:hc streets
in regular
tep a prc-
an unfor-
ing a leap
I the rocks
orth-west,
idgc ; and
is washed
y scattered
very edge
lied Bour-
loUl count oi
car u villiijjc
Upon the
dcd between
rried Egeno,
his posieriiy
ledwiije Wiis
)»tiiilon : a ^,Il•;^ng(.■r standing on the bridge would (:onn;ure it t.j I/ipul.i, or tlic llj in;;*
Island in (luUivei's Travels, and would not conceive it to be accessilile I)nt by means
of a cord and pulleys. In the midst of tin; river I i-bsi r\tcl a large I'rignient of s'one,
which a few years ago fell from the rocky heights, was carried undt r one of the arehe^.
and in conjunction with othi r Iragnients stopjiing the current, raisid it more than ter*
feet above the usual level, threatening the lower part of the t(-wn with a sudden in-
inulation.
A tra\eller fond of wild and roninntio scenery will not fail to visit the Moulin di' it
Motte, in the valley of (loteron : it i-. a inilie'r's dwelling, hoilowid in the midst o*
an imijending rock, mar it issues a small torrent, which, tinning tlic mill, fills within a
few paces into the Sane. Tliis singular dwelling svcms so far removed In an " the busy
hum of men," as to be ratiier situated in a remote solitude, than within the walls of a
fortified tcjwn. Near it is an ascent of lour lumdred steps to the Places des Fontanes,
in the upi)er part of the town.
The valley ofGoteron, on the north-west of the town near the bridge leading t(*
Bern, takes its name from die Goteron, a small rivulet; it is extremely narrow, above
two miles in length, and is boimded on each side by overhanging rocks (jf sand-stone
Vernet, th.e celebrated landscape painter, studied these njcks witli great atf..iition, and
fre(juent!y declared that, exce|iting those of 'l"i\-oli, he never saw any whose varying
tints had a more pleasing and harn\onious elU ct. 'l"he valley contains scvenil mills, an
iron foundery, where the ore brought from Franche Comte is Ibrged, and a manufac-
ture of printed linen and cotton, Kill I}' established by some merchants of Xeuchatel,
under the protection and encouragement of government.
The houses of Friburg, constructed with a gray sand -stone, drawn from a neigh-
bouring quarry, are neat and well built; but the whole town has a dull and inanimate
appearance.
Among the few worUiy objects of |)articular notice are, the cathedral, an elegant Go-
thic edifice, erected in the latter end of the fourteenth century, and remarkable for the
height and solidity of the tower; the town-house an ancient building, which formerl)
composed part of the palace belonging to the dukes of Zicringen, and also a lime tree,
in the middle of the principal square. Tradition reports, that this tree was j)Ianted by
one of the soldiers, on the '22d of June 1477, on his return from the battle of Morat :
an emblem of Swiss liberty, which took deep root on tlie memorable defeat of Charles
the Bold, and thus remaining firm against the conflicts of time, has continued to
spread and llourish to the admiration and example of fuiin-e ages.
The society of Friburg is extremely agreeable; tlie gentry are frank and liosj)ita!)io,
and blend French politemss wiUi great sinij^licity of manners. Dinner is usually served
at twelve; and supper seldom later than eight. I never experienced a more cordial re-
ception in any town of Switzerland.
The bishop of Lausanne, called here the bishop of Friburg, resides in this cii\-. lie
is appointed by the Pope, usually at the reccjmnKndation of the Fniieh court; and
his revenues including a small pension from France, and Injm tlie abbey of Ilanti.ri\e,
of which he was abbot, amount to ;ibout 4001. per ;inn. His diocese extentis over tliC
whole canton, and part of that of Solure ; in all his acts and deeds he signs himself
bishop and count of Lausanne, and prince of the German empire.
The present bishop, Bernhard of Lenuburg, is a man of letters, and an honour to
his profession ; he is employed in preparing for the public a biography of the illustrious
and learned men born in the canton of Friburg, who have distinguished themselves,
either in the civil, military, or literary line.
fi o 2
y36 », use's ruAvr.i.3 in swirzEHLAKn,
This <:aiilon is criurcly catholic. Its poj)uIatioi\ in 17H5 may be estimated Irom tl.'-
following tul)l(j :
The town coiitaiiud ....... 5,011
Thf environs -..••.••• 15,500
The remainder of tlie canton 33,078
Absentees ...-..--• -^,000
Number ol" inhaljitants
57,589
The sovereign power resides in the (In at C:onncil of Two Hundred ; comprising tli'*
two Avoycrs, the ChanecUcjr, the ('.rand Sa\iticr. th.; SiiuUe or little Council of Twen
ty-four, the Sixtv, from which Ijody are ehosc n th«' bannerets and principal mag js-
trates, and the remaining hiiiidrcd and twelve mcmlKrs, who arc simply denominated
Burghers. . .
The onlv persons eligible to this sovereign council, and capable of enjoying any
share in the government, are the secret burghers, or a certain number of families di-
vided into four banniercs, or tribes of the town ; they are called secret burghers, to
distinguish them from the other citizens, partly inhabiting the to\yn, and partly the
twentv-four parishes in the environs, who enjoy the right of appointing the avoyers,
from 'certain candidates proposed by the Sixty, and of annually confirming their.
Hence manv authors have called this government aristo-democratical, but erroneously;
for, as the power of the pt opie is confined to the act of choosing and confirming the
two avoyers, and as the supreme authority absolutely resides in the (Jouncil of Two
Hundred, necessarily supplied by a limited number of patrician families, the govern-
inent is, in the strictest sense, an aristocracy.
Instead of troubling vou with an uninteresting detail of those points in which the go-
Ncrnment of Friburg'rt'sembles that of the other aristocratieal cantons, I shall confine
myself to those peculiar circumstances by which it is discriminated from them. This
fli'tVerence may be principallv said to consist in three articles.
1. The blind ballot, or mode by which several important offices are supplied, and
particularly by w hieh the members of the senate and the sixty are chosen, this mode of
election was instituted in order to prevent venality, and is too singular not to be distinct-
ly explained. The nan cs of the candidates are placed privately in a box, contahung as
n.aiiv i)artitions as thue are persons who solicit the charge. Into each of these parti^
tions, the electors throw in their suffrages as chance directs, without knowing to whom
they may happen to give their votes; and die candidate who has the most of these ca-
^ual ballots is elected.
2. The clause which excludes certain noble families from the office of banneret, and
from the secret chamber. These families arc sixteen in number; some were acknow-
'edged noble, even as earlv as the foundation of the republic ; others successively ob-
tained titles of ecnints and"barons from the foreign princes to whom they were attach-
ed, and in w hose armies they served.
3. But the most remarkable circumstance which discriminates the constitution ot
Frlburg from that of the other aristocratieal cantons, is a committee distinguished by
the name of the Secret Chamber, which, though not any public or responsible part of
administration, is n et the concealed spring that puts the wheels of government in mo-
tion. As the prerogatives and <;peration of this secret chamber are in general little
known, and still less understood, a concise account of i>s origin and constitution
will not be uj'.iuteresting.
ANi) IS IMF. COI'NUIV 01 1 iO. t.UluON:..
«..V
I from tl.''
;,589
5ri:;ii"ig tlir
ol" T\\cn
pal niagis-
iiomiiiutcd
oying any
iinilies di*
irghcrs, to
partly the
,c avoyers,
ling their,
roncously ;
irming the
:.\l of Tu'o
he govern -
lich the go-
lall confine
cm. This
pplied, and
lis mode of
be distinct-
ntaining as
:hese parti-
g to whom
jf these ca-
nneret, and
re acknow-
ssively ob-
n-re attach -
stitution of
^uished by
ible part of
tent in mo-
eneral little
constitution
The sct:r(.tthan»!)cr, (orniinLj a part of the coinuil of si\ly, is compDsed (jI the four
bannerets, and twenty-four mtnibtrs; the lour h.uiiurcts arc ihosiii by the c.ouniil f)!
two hundrul from the four tribes, ;uid remain in olViee four years, the twenty-four an-
nominated by a majority of their own bodv , and continue for lile.
The secret ehambir assembles ordinarily four times in the year, or oftener ifoecii-
sion ref|ulres, and is convoked byabannerrt. 'I'hetwfj jirincipal meetin^sare between
the Sunday before St. John's day and the 2ith of June, usually on tin anniversary ot
the battle of Morat, for the purpose of appuiutinj^- the vacant places in the council of
two hundred; and on Tuesday in Whitiun week, when they supply the vacancies in
their own body.
Its origin is thus traced in the records of the republic. From 1;]47 to l;]87, the
three bannerets nt)minated twenty persons from eaeli of the three tribes into which it
was then divided, and these si.Kty assembled on the Sunday before St. John\ day, l'>
establish the senate, and elect the treasurer; from hence is derived the origin of the
sixty, and of the assembly which meets on the Sunday now called Secret .Sunday. It
consists of the whole council of two hundred, excepting the avoyers and senate, and
is presided by the chancellor, the four bannerets, and the members of the secret chim-
her, who take the places of the senators. This assembly reviews, confirms, or censures,
if necessary, the senators, the bannerets, and the sixty (die members of each tribe retir-
ing, while their conduct is examined by the remainder) and fdls up the vacant places in
the senate, and the sixty, by blind ballot.
In i387, the nomination of the sixty was transferred from the bannerets to the ;>s
scmbly which met on the Secret Sunda)-, and that assembly was also empowered to ap
point the senate, the treasurer, the sixty, and the remaining members of the two hun
dred. By a charter of the same year, four coadjutors, drawn from the sixty, were gi-
ven to each banneret, who were chosen in the same manner as the bannerets, sepa-
rately by each tribe, and this may probably be considered as the origin of the secret
chamber. A charter of the year 1392 confirms the Secret Sunday in the right of nonii
nating the sixty, and confers on the bannerets that of choosing the prud-hommes, w ho
accompanied them when they convoked the people on St. John's day, and probal)Iv
also that of appointing their coadjutors. This nomination took place, as at preseiii,
on the Tuesday in AVhitsun-wcek. The town being at that period only divided iiUo
three tribes, the coadjutors were limited to twelve ; when a fourth tribe was added, tluii
number was augmented to sixteen.
A charter dated 1404 confirms, in many instances, iluse arrangements ; but dov .
not grant to the Secret Sunday, the nomination of the two hundred ; a right at that tiiiv
enjoyed by the bannerets, who shared it with their coadjutors, the secrets: thus ])]<■
bably arose the power of appointing the members of the two hundred, since constauih
exercised by the bannerets and secrets.
The same charter orders the bannerets to assemble on Whit-Tucsday, in conjunctioa
with the sixty of the preceding year, for the purpose of electing four members of ih<:
sixty from each tribe, who should accompany the bannerets when they convoked the
assembly of burghers and inhabitants on St. John's day ; and two additi(;nal membero
for convening die assembly of Secret Sunday. Here then are six persons from eaeli
tribe employed in these convocations, or in all twenty-four persons, die number ol
members who now form the secret chamber. The same charter also enjoins the baniic
rets and secrets to collect the votes in all elections and deliberations: un oflirr ^^■lli( }
they continue to exercise to this day.
>. H
ro:.r.'2 1 1; \\ ei j i\ -.viiituju.
Ah cailv as tin- l)i'f;iniiiuf,' <>f tin. Iil'ticntli rcntiiry, ihe l);ii.ncrcls ami m« ret* h >snnl)l((l
It Christinas and Kasttr, l-.r iIk- |)i'ri)i)-,c of (uvparin^j; Midi tnoil(.ns as \u re to Uv laid
!tt fori' the roumjl of two Imndnd. w l\ii!i adopt- il, niodilj. d, or njiotcd tluMU.
As tiK'baiiiiiats prolKiI)!)- .ouMimrd toniijil )y i!ic shik rr)a(ljiilor> incjiivokiu;;- the
assi-mblicson St. John's d.iv, and nn Sicnt Siindiy, the sccrci chanilKT, compoud (>r
ilv.sc iwntv.t'nin- (•«)a(ljntois, at Uui;\\\ lucanu a pi rniamiit body, and iMijoys the lol-
l.)\\iii(;prir'njjjati\(s ; 1. It convokes, in (onjinirtion uiihthi Ii.uintn is, the pooplf on
St. John's (lav, and the asstnji.ly \vlii« h niiitson S^cnt Sunday. 2. I'ripans and draws
lip all thi' lavVsand onlinancis," injoys the soU' povv( r oC proposinjj; in thi- j^rcat council,
and Iiv niians ol'iJK haniidits, ol' pn(iinij,-a nijja'.i\c on any motion, liy simply allirm
in;;- it to Ijc contrary to tin I'onstiiuiion.
A. (.'oIlictH till votes in the dn tion or rnnlirniation of the avoyer, ".t the ineetinf^ ot
thr people on St. John's day, ..n<l in tlu diliher.itions of the ^riat council. 4. Kills.
up all the Mic.inci's in that counril. .l. Suspi nds, deposis, continus, and censin-es itsi
luemlicrs. (). C'«aiHrn>s, or svispi nils and di pons its own nieinhtrs ; makes re;,ndations
for the interior administration of its own body ; appoints the maimer ofeleetinj; its own
nii-inlnrs, and liHini,' up the vacaucits in the irnat couiu il. 7. Kixis on the time lor
dios( elections, and the sum of money whicluai li memlur is permiltul toreciiye from
those ell (ted. H. It can exclude aH'cainlidatts from lieiu)^' chosen nuinhers of the sc
nate, of die sixty, from the ollice of hailifis, and oiIk r important char^as, either hy r( fusal
to pri sent, or hy r< jeciiii!,^ them as imapahU . .Ml these prerogatives, foundi d on aiiihen
tic documents^ or imnumorial us;i;j;e, were conlirnud hy the council of two hundred,
ill KiOG, Ui-23,and parlicularlv in 171().
AUahairs (jf jrovcrnmeiit, and all d( bates in the national asscmbrus, arc carried on i\\
tlu' Cnrman lan};nai,'e ; and as the I'rench ton^nie is spoken in the f.i;reatcr part of die
eanton, and particularly by the gaitry, many members of the great council do not un-
derstand the d( bates.
Such was the general form of .government when I first visited Friburir m 177C); since
that period it has undcr.^oue some viry important alterations, the subblance ol which I
^hall communicate to you in the follow in^; letter.
LKITKU LI 1 1.
Origin mid Sitp/)ression oj the latr TroiMs in the (\niUvt of l'nhurif..,.CIuinfri's in thr
form of (iovcrnnicnt,
THK exclusive ri^ht of shariiii; in the administration of attairs, enjoyed by a certain
nutnbcr of families, in the aristocrat ical cantons, has, in conjunction with other concur-
rent circumstances, occasioned revolts in those of Zuric, Bern, and Lucern, w hieh were
.juelled by the interposition of the other Helvetic powers, and prevented from a}:ain
breaking-out, bv juilieious regulations. Friburir havintr exhibited a recent example oi
die same kind, \ endeavoured to trace the ori^-in and progress of those intestine commo-
rions, which have been followed bv a considerable alteration in the form of government,
Accordingl}, 1 now lav before ytJu thi' result of my iiupiiries, impartially drawn from
repeatidcoiiversations with persons of both parties, from an attentive perusal of several
publications written during the course of the troubles, and from some curious maiiu-
scripts, which I Ibrtunati Iv obtaiiu d.
In the latter ind of April 17H1, an insurrection suddenly broke out in the bailliagc ol
Gru\eres, a district in the southern part of the canton, whose inhabitants are extremely
jealous of their liberties, and zealously attached to all the customs of their ancestors.
A\U r.S Ml l(M'\fll^ (>l III!:. t.hUUN.
dji
)Si-inl»lc(l
> 1)0 laid
\ku\i'^ the
postd ol'
S the Inl
icopli' on
11(1 dr.iu's
council,
ly ulljrin
icctini:^ ot
4. Fills,
usiircs it!i
ffulationi
1^ its own
; time lor
:ivc IVoin
rtf the so-
l)y n fnsal
n aiitlun
htiiidrcd,
icd on in
art of the
u not iin
7(j ; since
r which I
iffs in the
■ a certain
T concur-
liich were
•oni ai^'ain
xampic oi
c com mo
vernment
rawn Irom
of several
ins manii-
lailliagc of
extremely
ancestors
Inititttd f'\ a lew inipM'i'li :ii Is t,f j,o\( rnmt nt, \)\ iIk pi try vexations ol iIk l>,uhH>, hv
the sccnlaii'/.alion ol \ il S.iinte, at )ii\>.nt of Cliarta n\, by iIil aholiiion of st, viral lasts
and Jestivals, and exiilulljy the ariiliits nf Chenitux .iiid (astella;?, iwo desi|i{nin^ lea-
dus, tluv rose in op' II n 1)1 liii in.
l\ter Siiholas ( litii.uis, thetliiil oj \\\- Mditjo;!, w;is a tiati\r ol la Toin'de Tn nie,
Ml the haillia;;*' of (iiuMri>j: li'. was i^'riitl) < iTiharrassid in his ciri iMUstances, and
being arrist((l and imptisoned in 1771, lor hit disolndiuit and inrhuknt conduct, \\:\%
hij^hl) e.saspt r.iiMl a;.',.iinst ^;o\irnn»i,nt. He was in tin ihiriy-i i^liih m ar of his a^^e,
of a ^-ood li^;(ni and » \|iressi\e eonntinance, and Ik in;^ a mm of rude jjiit popular elo-
<liiin(t, and of an oMrheariny; spirit, obtained a coiisidi rattle inlliit lue ovir ilu ariK sn
inhahitanis. His abettor, .lolui Nicholas Andn w (JastelLuj, was a l)nr};hrr of l''ril)nr|r,
and .idvoc iti' of (iruyi ris; virs d in all t!i • ehii' m ry of thi: law. convrrsaiti in the
history and ancient records of his rouniry, .ind will acipiiinted with the privilej^es of
the neople, he w.is the first to ex post the siij^htest o|)pressions of the baililV, and to re-
mark wherever f^ovcrnnuiit seuntil to inlViuKe thur inimimiiies, or issued edicts con-
trary to lon^-cstablishid nsa>.fi'. II. i\ iii;^ a loud V(/ur, untl vilii niuU i lorntion, he was
fornud for pimular assembiiis, ;iud print ipallv (hiMtid Chenaux in all dillieiilt mar-
gencies; lie drew im the principal renionsiranov.s \,hii:h, ex, ii,'.^e.r..ti!i^: every delect in
tljc constitution, tcntled to render |joNernnii.:ni odioUs, an. I lo s[)read»li.v:ijmentsamon{r
the people.
'1 hese two leaders, in conjunction with other accomplices, availed ihemst Ives of ilv
public dissalisf.iction, and enfjaj^'in^^ a considerable numlnr of adherents, held, in the
month of A|)ril 1781, rejrular meeiin;>;s at liulle. On the 2tdj, in particular, they
insinuated l)efore a large assembly, that government had formed a design of imposing
additional taxes of a grievous nature, particularly on horned cattle and horses, and even
of withholding the annual present of salt, whieh they shared widi the burghers of Fri.
burg. They represented ih.it the secniariz ition of V'al .Sainte, and the abolition of
certain festivals, implied a settled deiern»iirition to overinrn the n ligion of their anees-
tors; that the governing party had many enemies; that the despotism of the secret
cliamber was lu Id in universal al)horrencc; that the nooks were discontented, on ae.
count of their exclusion from llu' principal charges (jf the commonwealth; and tha!
the Inirghers and inhabiiaiils of the twenty-four parishes were jealous orihe exorbitant
rights possessed by the secret burghers. They added, the time w;is arrived wlien tiu.
people might venture with impunity to petition for rcdrc ss of grievances ; a strong party
in the capital was ready, on the llrst moment ol" tlieir .ippearance, to joi.i t!i.n.:, anil
multitudes would repair from all cpiarters to the standard of liberty.
Having, by these and similar insinuations, increaiii d the number of their iidhennts, it,
was linally concluded that, on the ?A of May, they should secretly repair to the capita!,
and, assendjlingin tlie market place, force the arsenal ; that having |)rovid:d themselves
with arms, they should secure the garrrson, consti-ain the Great Council to ivdress their
grievances, and make those changes in the constitution, which could alone sec.nv to the
people a mild and just administration.
Notwithstanding the gcner-al ferment whicli prevailed among the peojile in the bail-
liagcof (iru}eres, and the number of persons concerned in ihisconspirac) , goverumcia
received no notice of the plot before the 2\h\\ or 30ih of April. On the first certain
intelligence of the intended insurrection, the council of war, who immediately assembled
on the occasion, dispatched some troops to arrest Chenaux ; but having received inl'oi-
matioii fr-omom: of his accomplices in the capital, he escaped to la Toiir de Tremc, and
being joined by the most desperate of his adherents, determined to take arms witlioe:
.'. V'
rnxt,., tl\\\'t.l.> IN SWITZCnt.AN 1).
Kiiy. Il.iviuj;, l)V mciiH of hii i-misHurics, cxciud tlic spirit ul icIkUioii .uhoiifj tlir
(icoplo, who wtri- inlorini'd that Cht'iKuu had narrowly t«ica|H'<l uti arriHt for liis patri
»lio aitmipts, he vtiiiund to repair to (Iniycris, when* Custilla/. had already collccud
( coiisidt ra!)k- party. 'I'lic advocate, haviDp; assciiililcd a large body during the night,
"xpatiated with tniuh force and «lo<picn<,e on the several grievances, und used various
argnnuiits in favour of :in iinnudiate revolt, himil.ir to thoHC which were urged on the
l2ith of April, lie infl.nn(d the populaee to such a degree of fren;'.y, thai they flew tu
trnjs at live in ilu niorniu};, and, imprisoning liie U.iiliH*, erected the .stur\durd of relKllion.
riiealanu lieing given, (Jhenaux advanced to I'osiiux, which was fixed for the place ol
;iiKTal rin(Ii:'.\()Ms ; from whence he adilrc ssed a letter to the magistratts tA Friljurg,
lihclaiming all design of violent c, and rtcpiiring otily that the petitions and remonstrances
'!f llu' people should he tiiki n into ('on>ideration.
On the next morning he condtictid about sixty of his partisans to a height overlook-
ig Irllnirg, with an intmiion ejf Mnprising the city ; hut finding the gates shut, the
.ortilications guardtd, and not Ik ing joined, as he expected, hy the inhuhitauts of the
:w'eniy-ff)ur p;\rishes, he retired lir»i U) I'osicux, and afterwards to Avry, where he ex-
pected a n -inforcemeiit, which C.istell 12 and his emissaries were collecting in various
parts of the canton.
Dim ing these proceedings, the magistrates of I'rihurg were active in preparing for the
security of the town. The council of war sat the whole night; a night of extreme
i« rn^r and anxiety to m;>nv of the inhahitants. The account of the hailitPs arrest, of
Cheiianx's esca|)c, and his arrival at I'osieux, within two leagues of the capital, with a
corps of rebels whose number rumour exaggerated, was no sooner divulged, than a ge-
neral pani(; prevailed. 'I'he garrison scarcely consisted of more than fifty soldiers, and
those chiielly invalids ; the lortilications were weak and extensive ; not more than two
hundied burghers could be mustered to defend the ramparts, and the insurgents were
supposed to possess a strong party even w ithin the walls. If in this moment of disorder,
aided hy the darkness of the night, Chenaux had attacked the town, he might have car-
ried it by assault. But the first emotions of terror had no sooner subsided, than the
besieged assumed a spirit and vigour adeciuate to the alarming situation of affairs ; they
ran to arms ; the nobles, burghers, and even stra igers, crov ded to the ramparts, and
prepared for a vigorous defence ; their confidcrcc 'vas raised by the arrival of some n)i-
litia from Morat, who entered the gales at nine in the morning, and by the expectation of
more elVeclual succours from the canton of Bern.
On the preceding evening a messenger was dispatched to Bern, rcfjuesting immediate
assistance. He arrived soon after midnight : the avoyer d'Erlach, in the 83th year of his
age, instantly summoned the sovereign council. *' Gentlemen," exclaimed the vene-
rable magistrate, '• on other occasions you have a year to deliberate ; you must now
instantly act : Friburg is besieged by an army of rebels ; let those who approve sending
troops to her relief hold up their hands." The members unanimously assenting, twelve
hundred troops were commanded to march without a moment's delay. Before the
close of the evening major Rihimer entered Friburg at the head of two hundred soldiers,
who passed unmolested tlirough flying parties of the insurgents ; at midnight a hundred
and fifty dragoons arrived, and on the next morning eight hundred infantry completed
the re-inforcement.
The arrival of these troops inspired the magistrates of Friburg with perfect confidence
and security, and saved the town from the most imminent danger. Nevertheless the
emissaries of Chenaux and Castellaz, ranging about the country, sounded the church
bells in the various parishes, exclaiming that their religion and liberties were threatened
\Ni> IN iitK roiNti.s or niK <;ii tSoNr..
.11
ii\f^ thr
lis |Mtri
\v ni^lit,
I various
(I «)i» thr
y flew ta
•<|)tllion.
• place ol
l*'ril}urj;,
Hhtrant'ts
jvcrlook
shut, the
Us of the
re he CX'
II various
If; for the
cxtrcnu:
urrcst, ol
>il, with a
han a ge-
clicrs, and
than two
cnts were
■ disorder,
have car-
, than the
lirs ; they
parts, and
some nii-
ECtalion of
inimrdiatc
I car of his
the venc
nubt now
c sending
iig, twelve
before the
d soldiers,
a hundred
completed
confidence
heless the
he church
threatened
♦Mtli imiti.fliit* .iiuiihil ition. The- rtlul fnrcen were (;(intiiin;illy auxmriitinj; ; tlkv
Were ioiiiul l)\ nuii) iiili.diiiantsinthc t iiviK.iisof ihi town, aiidih'' l ist sti(i'('s«, woiiM
have inervau'd ihiir iiiiinlur (.Ikii.iii\ h.;d «i( \ual ».ini> ariin wiiliiii ilu/ cit}, and In.
fi.re mid-day ihr<'utnii.d I'lilnirt^ at ihi hrad of uhovc two thousaiul imh, ei;;ht hniuiretl
of whom uiif pntviditl with ui'ivKii-i, the i' in./iiuli r with only (hilis. orthv (Irst wxa
ponN w hii h ( hanee prestnttd. Il:i\iii^'- iKiiipird tin hiijjjhts, hi rouiid his rolloweri
w.iwriux and irrcMilute, ami strink with a );ihiiMl \u\\\r. on nr* iviii^' tlu' lu ws, that it
larf;e hootjy of troops from IKrn had iiinloncd th*.- ipirison. \h pusttdiii-. fi)|lo\virs,
Iiowcvcr, i'nanadvantaj^coiis sitnalif-ii ; w.iitiii).i^ wiili cniisidiraltk' anxii ty till his lurces
i.liPiild 1)1 iiUTtast'd, and an opportunity pn vnt itsi ll'ol i omnuiu'ii.g h'.stilitiL's, or(jl>-
taining a ^^iniral anni»si\ I'ur hiinsi-ll and his adiui'uiii.
In this situation ui ail'air', major Hihitni r Ud a lUtachinc nt cf oiu hniidttd and
el;j;hty dr.iji;oons from mi/ ol' the |;atis; wliilc li« iitiii mt iroiiLvilh , at thv-luidof
seventy nun ;.nd twenty dra};oous, s.illinl from anolluT. 'I'lic major, ihiviiij; the hi--
sii'gcrs iVom a lui|;ht which commandicl the tr)wn, rijiitimikd his marrh with an inli'iii
of attackiiif^ them in front, and at the distance of about a cannon-shot ivcoiinoitrcd eij^hl
hundred ol the i ncmy dravMi np in mdir of hattle, hot without arlilkrv . TIk- insiir
gents no sooner o!)served the cannon plantid a;;Min>.t them, and [n uAived that the com
mander was an ollicer of IKrn, than tlu \- dispaielud icptaicd messen;j;crs to assure him
thty were onl\ colh.ttd lo petition for a redress of ^ricMtncis, and t ntreated him to
spare the illusion ol hlood. Having feci ivi d an answir, tli it h>' would nndirtake to
intercedi- in their behalf, if thty would instantly lay down their arms, and deliver up
Cheiiaux ; they agreed to the first point, hut refused the second, 'i'he major conlinued
to eiiforci- his demand, imkI f;aincd time, until lienteiumt IVoideNillc appeared iinex-
[)ectedly in their rear, 'i'a-: two con\man(krs repeating their promises, that their just
remonstriinces should not be luglected, the wh(;le tiooj) surre luleicd themselves p'-i-
soncrs. Four of the principal ringleaders being secured, the remainder, having delivereel
in their names and places of abode, were permitteel to teiire; without molestation.
Cheiiaux, either finding it impossible to excite his lollo»\ers to sustain the attack, or
being deficient in personal courage, was among the first who betook himself to flight.
Wandering from village to villasi;e, he was about midnight observed near Tosieiix b\
Henr) Hossier, one of his principal accomplices. Hossier, willing to save his own lili
by betraying his leader, seized him by the collar, lepnjached him lor sedui ing the people
into rebelliejii, and for cowardice in Ibrsaking them, and, with the assistance of Cha-
vailet and Puhon, twcj other insurgents, wivsteel IVfini him a de)nble-b;irrelle(l pistol,
and conducted him towards Iribiirg. Chenaux, sudelenly dise ngaifing himstir, drew
e)ut a knife', wounded Hossier in se\eral places, andeiuleavouied to escape' towarels Fcj-
sieux ; but Hossier snatching a musket from one of his followers, soon overtook him,
and smnmoned him to surrender under pain of instant death. Chenaux, deriving con
rage from despair, attacked Hossier with inconsiderate fury, recei\ ed the assailant's bayo-
net in his breast, and expired on the spot.
The death of the leatlcr, the voluntar) surreiieler oi" his pr/ivipal ass.)ciates, and the
flight of Castellaz, put an end to this ill-concerted enterprise. Six hundred insur;;-ents,
the only remains of the rebels, were on the next morning observed hovering about the
capital ; but learning the fate of their leader, and the surrender oi' his Ibllowers, and
being attacked by a corps of grenadiers, dispersed without resistance.
But although the insxirrcction was thus suppressed, and all partivs concurred in ch as.
tising rebellion ; yU the spirit of discontent liail spread itself with t(Jo great violence and
rajjidity among all ranks of men, not to convince the rulers of the state, that the seed.-
■^ ot.. V.
.) 1'
i"'. • •OXK .. i:. AVLI,;i IN liV ITSfKI. AVI),
of tiir r<Au!l iny ikcpti tinn ;ii.p'.'iiiMin'cs siciiud io siij^i^i'sl. iMir it w.is (>ljvioiis tii.i.
tlif petty M.\;i:ioiis()r tin,' Laiiill'>, tlic iiWoliiidii ol' uiiiii-cfssiiry lasts and festivals, and
till' Mciiiiii;^ violation ufa k w liitliii!; iiiiniiiiiirn.s, Iiuwcvlt i xii};<^UMtc'd \n the artificcsoi
tlic most disiqiiiii!; IukK rs, wuvnut siilIi(iiiitto txt itc tiic pccjplc of Cinijias to tlu.
dc^pLl\.tc• t.xfn inity ul lakiii!j,' arms aiiaiiisl tin ir lawfid soviTtij^riis, if i^fovc'iiiinciit had
not bitn L.Mitnuly ui.|M)piiL:f ; it sivnal j^rii xaiK i.s of an (.p|)ii ssivc nature had not
r\(|uiiid tube ni'.n-scd ; -i\(ial odious n stri( lions to be rmiovid, and siveral deliets
ni the (■onitiiuii(;n to be unudiicl. InHnmeicl In these consitk rations, governnteni, in
;i niaiiiie-to, issued on thr 1 lib i,\' Ma\ , alttr ^raiilinL;-an amnesty, e.vrept to a fcwrin;;
leadirs. found il ntcissiir} to invite the sid<jeets (jI all cknoniinations to present reniun
stranccs, to ni^l.e rcpn s( i.ta'ions, and U) petition ai^ain.st .qrievances. Ab(Hitthe sani;,
litn^' the three e.;nt(,ns(;l Inrn, Lneuii, ;.,iid SolLure, disi)aielu(! dej^utic s to Iriijurj^.
■jlk.rin^' liuir nadi-iiion toviaiils eoinposiii^ the dihstnsioiis of the republic.
In i'.unse(|uence ofdiis ni..nif(.st(j, many pi tilit)ns and remonstrances were presented to
die Great Couneil. either ebMiiinj;- there>.^\val of obsolete rit^hts, the removal of certain
restrictions, or the aboliti(;n of \arions ta::e,-, ; demandin!; ledre-ss of .u,Tievances, and an
amendment of the constiluli(.n ; or e,(jm])lainint>-ol'an infrm^^enient (.f jiopular franchises.
Asil ucnild be neeilless to mention all the complaints anel plans whii h were dictated bv
thes[)irit of party and the fren/.y of innovati(;n, I shall confine myself to three princiinll
p(jints of dispute, w liieli oceasicjued the me)sl violent altercations; and which woidd
never have been compromised, luid not the three mediatint'^ cantons elFectually inter-
fered: 1. The disciualilication ol the nobility from the (,ilii;e oi b, nnerets and secrets ;
2. The exorbitant prerogatives and inlluence of the secret chamlji.r ; and 3. The exclu-
sive privileges of the secret Innghers.
1. AS'ithrespecjt to the llrst point in agitation, it luay be rc'.narkcd, that the cxclus-ou
of the noble kimilics from the charge <jf bar.iiere's aiid of secrets appeared sufficiently
reasonable, as long as the (jroverninent was democratie.J, and the bannerets were, ac--
cording to the ancient chailers, chosen from the people, and of course uhtn neither
they, nor their ce)adjuiors, the secrets, could be taken Iron; theuobiiity. Hut when the
government was changed from a democracy to an aristocracy, and the munici|)al admi-
nistration no longer subsisted, particularly when the trotdjles excited by the bannerets,
in 1553, obliged the couiicil of two hundred to transfer from the people to themselves
the right of ai)p(;inting diose magistrates ; the dis(]ualiIication of the nobility, which was
founded on democratical jealousy, ought to have no longer subsisted. Their remon-
strances werj therefore just, and would have been still more reasonable, if the troubles
e)f tne republic had not rendereel lliem duUgt rous.
2. As to the second point in (juestion : the eMe.iisi\e jioverand extraordinary influ
encx.' of the secret chamber could n(jt I'ail to create jealousies and discontents among all
ranks of men. For, on ce)nsidering the detail of their i)rer(;gati\es, as laid down in the
preceding letter, it must appear, that although the members eif liiat committee enjoyed
:io positive authority in enacting or annulling laws; yet by being die depcsitaries of'the
constitution, and tlie ultimate Iramers of all decrees'; by having the sole right of pro-
posing, and a negative on all the resolutions oi the Great Coun. d, no motion could pass
\vithout their concurrence. It is also no less obvi(nis, that th' power of muking regula-
tions for the interior administration of their own affairs, mysteriously concealed frejm the
knowledge of lite Sovereign Council, might give rise tcj dangerous al)uses; that the
members of the: ehan.ber eveniualy enjoyed, b}- the power of excluding from all
charges, that of iiomaiation; that by appointing to the vacancies in their own body it
.vas to I)e feared, n hatin eftecthuppea..d, that ;n) admission into the secret chamber would
AND IN Till' fOI'S'lItV 01 THE (.I'lZOSC
iii:>
lOllS tll.l.
ivals, :iii(t
irtificcsoi
IIS to lilt.
inciit had
c had not
;.I clciK.ts
iimciK, in
few rill!;
It rcinuii
the sann
Iribui-j^,
•scnttd to
of certain
•Sj and an
MIlchibLS.
ctalcd hy
|)rincij)al
:li would
iliy iiucr-
I hi'crcts ;
ic exclu-
-'xclus'oii
ifficicniiy
II neither
when the
pal udmi-
)annc'rets,
hich was
r rcmon .
troubles
2ry iuflu
niong all
ivn iii tlic
; ci)jo}ed
ics of the
t of pro-
ould pass
g rcgula-
Ironi the
that the
from all
1 body it
icr would
I
i)C' ehlelly con.' d to a few families; that, ;is tluy lilled iip all llie elt ctious in tlu
council of two hundred, these ckctions would di pend entiivly upr)n a few pt rsons uho
jiossessed the i.rre:itesi credit, and that tluis llu, {nnernnu at would gradually ti iid to ;i
narrower oligarchy.
r>. The tliird point in debate, namely, the exclusive privileges of the secret burgher.^,
oi)ened a larger and more dangerous field of conti ntion. 'I'hc de-niand o\' tlKodici
burghers tha; accordii g to the ancient I'oiin ofg-overnnvnt, the right of admi.i .ion into
the great council, instead ol'being""clusively eonrim d to the secret burghers, should be
extended to them, seemed to militate against tlie fundamental laws of the r.public, and
to involve a total ch:t,ige in the very essence (jf the constitution.
The remaining part of the year was employed in agitatin;;- diesc points of dispute .
which gave rise to many political and historical discussions, and occasioned several curi-
ous researches into the origin of the secret chamber, and the rise of the distinc'on between
the secret and other burghers. I'or the purpose of ascertaining these ,•, v.. ,,iis, the po-
pular i)arty demanded access to the archives; but met with delays and r.fusafs on the
I)artof governmeni, which considered such an iiujuiry of dangerous tendency, and cal
ciliated to introduce factious innovations in the state.
Exasperated by repeated refusals, the jiopulacc began to shew signs of discontent,
and to assemljle in crowds at the pla(;e where Chenaux was [lut to ('eath : they marched
in solemn procession, bearing crosses and colours, and chaunting hyimis and recjuienis
ill honour of this mart\r (as they called him) to the religion and liberties of ..'s country.
These tumultuous meetings would probably have ended in another insurrection, if the
bishop of Lausanne had not forbidden them, under jxiin of excommunication. Tow ards
the conclusion of the year, deputies from Bern, Liicern, and Soleurc, arrived at Friburg,
for the purpose of composing the diHerences subsisting in the capital; and in order to
conciliate the burghers, who were no less violent in favour of the nobles than in extend
ing their own immunities, prevailed u|)on administration to re|)eal the disabling clause.
\V ith respect, however, to the other subjects of controvers\-, they concei\ed it dangerous
to entrust the leaders of u heated populace with die records of government which niight
be attended with projects of endless innovation, and proposed that the great council
should order a committee to draw up a declaration setting forth the privileges and fran-
chises of the burghers, and that for the future diis declaration should be coi'isidered as u
fundamental code.
But although these esseiuial points were obtained ; yet so many subjects of altercation
still remained, that for some time all further plans for compos'ng tlu; dihlrences were
Iruitless. Jl'he deputies repaired to Moiat, where they were ein'ployed, from the 2otli
ot April 1782 to the 2.'ith of .Inly, in hearing appeals, revising and C(jnsidering the argu-
ments on both sides, aiici consulting on the best methods to conciliate the two ])arties.
The burghers however, dissatisiied with the chiefs of the aristocrac\, formed a reso-
lution to refuse tiiking the annual oath of allegiance to the great council; nor were th-y
without great dilliculi) pre\ailed upon by the three deputies in person to perlorni the
usual homage. Displeased neverdieless with the (lei)uties themselves, and considering
them as partial to administration, they delivered a memorial, in which, alter representing
their grievances, the) threatened to ajjpeal to the general diet of the tlnrleen cantons as-
sembled at Frauenlield.
^ A measure of so alarming a nature, tending to produce a material change in the prin-
ciples of the Helvetic unicjn, was strongly repnjbated by the memi)ers ot'iluit coiiietle-
racy. For it was iirgvd (and with great reason) that by introducing an inno\aiion of
such public notoriety, the disputes between the respective governments and their sub-
r
M t
(•()M,'ri l«AVF.I.;i IN SW I T7, T. II r A N H,
|( ( ts would Ik lial)U to bccoiut more luiiucroiis i\ncl (hmt^rrous, :uul tliiit in the ciulcucii
canton wonlcl Ihll inickT the j^uardianship of the n.nuiintUr. Oil the othir hatul, whai
rendered the |)risiiit crisis still more alarniint; was, that the court of Fraiu c, consulted
l)y several Itadinj; members in administration, ti iidend her j^cjod olliees towards eompo-
sin.ii^ the dissensions. And alihoui;h tlie three cnnt<^ns rejjnjhatc d, w ith consistt nt dignity,
the intervention of an} Ion ii^n powi r, and declared that I'riburs^^ on accepting; such a
mediation, should be excluded from the Helvetic rontederac} ; vet it was apprehended,
that on an increase ol the trcjubles tlu Trench would lind some pretext to interfere in the
afliiirs of Fribun;;, as they were actually eiii^ac^cd in those ofdeneva.
Innuenced b\ tlu sc considerations, the thn e mcdiatinsi; cantons, anxious to bring mat
f( rs to a speedv conclusion, prevailed upon the rulinL;- parly to consent to several altera-
lions in the constitution. At len<j;th, after various delays, dispute s, and conlerences, the
deputies published on the HHh oiMiine a manifesto, de larini^, that on an imptartial and
(lili,u;ent review of the various memorials and manil'estos on both sides, the assertions of
the burghers were groundless, and their demands unconstitutional ; that the present Ibrm
of government had subsisted I'.bove two hundred years, and that the supreme authority
resided in the members of the great council. To this declartition they added, that tl ;
three cantons would defend and protect the existing form of government, and woul''
never permit an appeal re lating to the amendment or i.lteration of the constitution, to any
other power than the supreme council e)f the republic ; that tribunal [jeim^ alone comi)e-
tent to such (]uestions. At the same time they recommended to government a repeal of
the disabling clause, v\ hich excluded the nobility from the office of banneret or secret ; to
idmitscn.. new families into the: secret burghershi[) ; to hear and redress any remaining
grievances, and to correct any de /ects in the constitution.
This declaration being accepted bv government, was read on the 28th of July to die
burghers assembled in their respective tribes ; but several among them jirotesting for-
mally against it. the three principal ringleaders of this opposivion were banished, their
protests disregarded, and tranquillity restored.
Soon after this fmal pacification, the great council jiassed several acts for the redress of
grievances, removed some burdens and usages which had been the object of general com-
plaint, and amended the constitution in the following points: 1. A perfect equality is
established between the secret burghers ; the ancient nobles are no longer disqualified
froi-n holding the office of bannerets or secrets, but do not enjoy any precedence in conse-
quence of their titles, which in all acts and deeds within the canton of Friburg arc omit-
ted. In return, all the secret burghers are, without distinction of persons, esteemed
equally noble. 2. Sixteen new families have been admitted into die secret burghcrship,
which' addition nearly completes the number of a hundred families; and it is further
enacted, that on the extinction of any three families, an ecpial number shall be elected
without delay. 3. The vacancies in the sixty, instead of being indiscriminately supplied
from the members of the two hundre d at large, are now filled up according to seniority.
4. But the great and principal alteration in the form of government respects the new
eonstitution of the secret chamber, which is changed in the following important points :
1. The members of that committee, instead of being nominated by a majority of voices
in their own body, arc now taken from the sixty, and chosen by blind l)aiiot. The can-
didates are no longer under the necessity of being presented by a member of the secret
chamber ; but on addressing themselves to their banneret, the latter is obliged to deliver
in their names to the secret chamber. As each vacancy is supplied from the particular
Tribe in ts'hich it happens, this alteration must reduce the candidates to thrje or four :
ANu IN iJt:. cofN 1 1: v OF iiri- f, rnso.va.
ul:
111 onk r also to prevent cahiil or corruption, if tlu re sluill he only one ciindidute, he is
not neeessiirily elceted ; hut it must l)i' decided hy lot, wlietlier he shall he ehoseu oi
rejeeted, and if there should he a majority of hallots for the nei,.'tivc, he n\nst wait til!
the suhsefjuent year hefore he ean have anoihc r chanee of heing a|)i)ointed. Kach mem
heron his election shall pay no more than II. 10s. to eaeh hanneret and seeret ; and tliL
money shall he de livered to the sceretary, and hy him he eepially distrihuted. 2. Neither
lather and son, nor two hrothers, nor more' than two persons heariiif^ the same name,
shall be admitted at the same time into the seeret ehamher. 3. The members still retain
the rij^ht of filliii}^ np all the vacancies in the council of two hundred, with the usual
provisions, that the candidates shall be twenty jcarsof aoe, and that the promotion shall
take place e\try two years. It is iurther decreed, that on oath, under pain of depriva-
tion, no more than 1200 crowns* shall be received for the nomination; and that the
said stun, instead of !K:ng solely appropriated to the person who is to appoint, shall now
be delivered to die secretary, to be l)y him equally distributed among the four bannerets,
when either of them shall elect, or amoni^ the members of the seeret chamber, belongini^- to
the tribe in which there is a vacanc}', when the turn devolves upon either of them.f It is
moreover added, that if the person presented by the banneret, or a seeret, shall be rejected
by two- thirds of the chamber, another may be jiresented ; but if the second is rejected,
the right of presentation shall be transferred to the banneret, or secret, next in rank ol
the same tribe. It is also stipulated on oath, that all promises of exchanging presen-
tations, or similar engagements, shall not be valid lor the furturc; those only excepted
which are now absolutely subsisting, and which concern either a son of the contracting
party, or a person whose name is specified. 4. The power of excluding persons from
the principal charges ol government is still reserved to them ; but they arc exhorted to
use it with great precaution and care. 5. The interposition of a negative, exerciscu by
a single banneret, is no longer sulficicnt to reject a motion in the Great Council. The
opposition, in order to render it valid, must now be founded on a precise law, and una-
nimously approved by the four bannerets ; but if one shall dissent, it is then referred to
the council of two hundred, which shall decide, by a majority of two-thirds, whether the.
negative shall be confirmed or rejected. 6. The power of proposing, formerly vested only
in the secret chamber, is now extended to the members of the senate and the sixty ; and the
mode of deliberating on such propositions and motions i.- attended with forms more or
less complicated, as the object is more or less important. In all instances the laws are
prepared and finally drawn up by the secret chamber. 7. The secrets shall take an
oath before the bannerets as delegates of the Great Council, to obey all the ordinances
of that assembly, and to obsc rve the present articles, ^vithout retrenching or adding to
them. And it is fuiihcr f)rdered, that no alterations shall be made in the present con-
stitution of the secret chamber, unless approved by three-fourths of their own body,
and by two-thirds of the Great Council.^
* Of 25 buch each, the wliole sum 1711. 13s. Od.
+ Each b.iiiiiei'ci to iiomiiiutc the iirsi viuaucy iit his own tribe, ami then each secret by roUilioji.
act- rclini; to seniority, in liis particular tribe.
\ On consitlerih};- .he pieseiH distvirbance, the ninnberof the disaft'ected, and the exclusive pii-
vilegcs of the secret burt^lurs, it wus naluial to suppose that the French would have foiuul more ad-
herents in this canton than in any oiher part of Switzerland ; but the reverse was the truth. N'o in-
novation was made in the coiislilut'on before the surreniler of the town; and the magistrates shewed
less inclination tiian the people to resist the Trench. On the same night in which Soleure was in-
vested, a column of ihe l-'rencli army, under the command of geneial Figion, marched towards Fri-
burg, surprised tire outposts, and suntmoned the magistrates, who were roused from sleep by this
unexpected attack, to an immediate surrender, while the Frcncli adlierents in the town seized th«
M6
roxt r. "iHAVEr.s rv swi i ::i, in .\Nin
Lr/rTi:H li\ .
Cheese rif (lriii/rres....//iri)iiht!^e near /'r/fu/r^if.
rilK t'MiUoM of I-'iibiir}^^ coiiiaiiis ;i small poti'Kjn ol' ;iral)lc' land, hut abf)unfls in
pastures; acordiu^ly, its principal articles of i.xp(-rlalic)ii consist in Iioniccl cattU'.
< litcsc, butttr, and hidis.
The cliicse, well known uiuUr the name ol' (Irujcas, \\ hich is exported in iirpjc
-iu:,nti(iis, i^l made ftii a diain ol' mountains about ten leai;ucs in length and four ill
bteadili, ext( ndii;^- I'rom the bailli;.!^e ol S< liuart;;i nl)urp,h tu the districts oi' V'cva} and
/\igle in the lanion (^t 1>» rn. All the ehtese, ihouj^h niade iu the same manner, is
not ol' the same (|ii:ility ; a diiliienei ) njbably arisini; Irom the diversity ol the soil;
lilt same plants not j^rouinj; at all Iu lights, and the loun- pastures, called gites, being-
rot in sueh estimation for tlu ir i^ ('•■ ss as [\h)>c in the mi>st eii'\ated situations.
The \\lH;le district is divide d ii.t ■ >ter or li ^ser larms. which the proprietors let
mit in leases ol' three or six \cars, ai > aimual rate of Itis. *^ to II. 10s. during- five
nLoiiths lor each cow, actordini;- to the nature or elevation of the ground: the lower
paslines, though not of the best (|ualiiy, are the dearest because being sooner freed
from the snow, and later covered with it, they afl'ord food to die cattle lor a longer
time.
Kach farmer, ha\ ing rented a mountain, hires from Ute dinirent peasants in the can-
ton from forty to sixty cows, from the 13th of May t(j the 8ih of October, and pays
at the rate of from 11. 6s. to 11. 13s. Gd. per head; each cow upon an average yields
daily fnjm twenty to twenty-four iiiiaris of milk, and supplies two hundred pounclsf of
cheese during the live months. On the eighteenth of October the farmer restores the
cows to the ditt'erent proprietors. The cattle are then pastured in the meadows which
ha\e been twice mowed, until the 10 or 11th of November, when on account of the
stiow, the} are usually removed to the stables, and fed during winter on lu and after-
grass.
As the mountains in the canton of Friburg aflbrd pasture for at least 15,000 cows,
ii may be estimated that they annually siippl) about 30,000 hundred weight, of cheese
lit for ex[)(irtati(jn ; beside :2,()00 or .5,0Ui> alter their return from the mountains, ex-
<:lusive of ;i thinner sort, which is maelc in various parts of the canton. The cheeses
lit for exportation weigh i'lom forty to sixt} pound:^ each, and are sold from 11. 17s. to
2\. per hundred weight. Beside the cows which are pastured during summer in ihc
mcnnilains, die canton c<jntains ubout 12,000 belonging to the landholders, which sup
jjly their families with milk.
The buildings necessary lor making cheese consist of a chalet or cottage, which con-
tains a rocjm wiUi a furnace for boiling the milk, a cellar where the milk is preserved, and
.a-sciKil. Tlu- Di.ivpsUwU's iiu liiuel to cupinilatc, were (IcUircd l>y ilic iiilli.x of 4000 p. ,aiUs wlio
i1(;cKii(l iii'i) till town, r»:( lui fed Uie arsi .,ai, and with 1:)0<) lie iiiise' troops. i)i'epa!e(l lo dfi: ml il to
iIk' hisi cxtiiiiii'y. A iiK'>;-..r:'r licliiL!; eli.ipaleiicd lo ifi;iiural l'i|^ioii tluil Uit m.is^ibU'ate's, ove'i'ijowi red
)))• Uie; pi'oplf, ( iMild uoi oii.c a i up.uilaUoii, .lunit; siiills were llirowii into elu; town, several lioiises
set on liii', a bre.ic II nuide hi n\e \\.,lli, and ine 1 rcneli pi'cpare<l to storm llic place. The: troop;, of
Hirn, jjirceivin;., ilie tuilen.'.bie .u.itt ul l)ie' f()riiiii;ations, and tlie timidity of llie mai^istrale.^, niarciu'ii
out witli oU cannon, .aid aei (;inpanied l)y tlie 4()0(J peasants, witliont Ueini^- moK:si( d by llie , ii;;my.
The- town Was inscnuly oei apied by llie l"ren( b, and a provisional government elected by the districts
of i'"ribiiri; .sujieiscled liie Kuiiier m.ijj,-i-.irary. I'ianta, vol. il. p -lH.
• Tills U-;u-i Was writtii.i. ja I7i'b, since unicli period jjcrliaps the prices are Altered.
t I'.ach l)ound ci)nt.dn% seven'.een uiii'Ces and a IV.u lion.
\ N n i ■.
iL -'.irNTRv (II 1 11 r.
Ill 3 on;
u stabK- For sixty nr siviiily (..jw-. ; near it is a kind of dairy. room, kipt in an oriual dr
!3[rcc of tempt ratiiro, wlKrctlK < |k( scs ari' ivtiy day turned and salted. 'I'lie tliiekiK-.-
ol" llie vat, ill which each cluise is jiresscd, is abcait lour iiiclus. Thi. casks torcxpor
tatioii contain ten eheescs, exceplin)^- those destined Jbr Italy, which hold only three, in
order to Ix' convex ed by nnilcs ;i rost. the (treat St. Ikrnard. The cheeses well packe(t
wj) bear the trar port into the most distant countries; they out^ht to be kept in a dam[)
place, and rie<|uently wasiietl w i h white wine, to prei^erve them Irom insects. VVheii
the cows return lioiii the mountains, a species ol cream cheese is made in autumn, and
even in winter ; it is nmch esteemed, and is dearer than that (jf Grii} ens. The s^reater
part of the salt used on these occasions is draw n li om Franche Comte ; a small (|nantity
irom Lorraine and liavaria, but its (piality is much inferior. The consumjjlion ol' the
whole canton, for all purposes, is at least 20,000 lumdred weii^ht, of whieli 15,000 is
drawn from Franche Comte.
A f^reat mnnber of mares, foals, and horned cattle, arc annually raised in the (•anton :
the oxen of three or four years old arc sold in the canton of Bern, in the country of
Ncuchatel, and in Franche Comte. Upon an avera^^c it may be estimated that the can-
ton of Friburg annually supplies pasture for 37,000 cows and oxen.
In our route from Friburjj^ t(; Bern, wc made a small circuit to the village of Neuncck,
to an hermitage, that lies about a league from Friburg ; and which has been highly extoll-
ed by travellers on account of its singularity. It is formed in the solid rock, and was
the work of two men; as such, it is an astonishing performance, but, in any other res-
pect, is scarcely worth visiting. In the last century a hermit scooped out a hollow in
this rock, just sul'-cient to lie at full length : but his successor desiring a more commo-
dious mansion, hewed, in the heart of the mountain, a chapel, several apartments, and
stair-cases. The length of the whole is above four hundred icet ; one room is ninety
feet long, and twenty broad ; the steeple of the chapel, if it may be so called, is eighty
feet high, and the chimney of the kitchen ninety.
The hermit who perforated this habitation, was near thirty years engaged in the work.
What u waste of time and industry ! But such is the foil} of se([uestered superstition,
that, for want of better occupations, it Irecpiently has recourse to laborious trifles. The;
situation of the hermitage is extren^ely buiuiilul : the rock hangs over the river Sane,
which meandering between two chains of hilis covered with wooci, fills all the valley be-
neath. The present hermit is a German ; and widi him lives an old soldier.
From this hermitage to Neuneck (w here the canton of Bern commences) the country
is rich and finely wooded ; on our right we had a distant view of rugged rocks, the snowy
Alps rising above them and closing the prospect. The sun was nosv declining : the va-
rious tints of the evening, the purple gleam upon the naked rocks, and the rays of the
setting-sun upon the glaciers, which seemed to glow almost into transparency, cast such
a beautiful radiance over this magniiicent scene, as even the luminous pencil of Apelles
himself, who is said to have |)ainted "qucc pingi non possunt, fulgura 8c fulgetra."^
would in vain have attempted to imitate. I am, &c.
LETTER LV.
Toxvn and Canton of Bern.
Bern, September IG.
I WAS n.uch struck, on entering Into Bern, with its singular neatness and beauty.
The principal streets an. broad and long, not straight, but gently curved ; the houses
• "Things wljich cunnot be paiiUtcl, thuiultr and lightning." Viil. PI' \ II. N. lib. 35. c. 10.
1
HM\
i(t"'i-: ni.wLr.s in iw i r/.i-n r. an n,
;ircuiosil) iinirMiin, Iniill (.la (4;ra)ish stone upon arcades. Tlirouf2;h the middle of the
stiedsruiis a llv I\ sin am ol' ihi- eLau st water, in a stone channel, while several foun-
tains arc not K ss (Hiianuiital to the place than Ijenefieial to the ii»hal)itants. The river
Aar almost surrounds the town, winilinjj; it.«> enurse over a rocky he/l nuieh below tin
level of the streets, and lor a eonsideraljle way f)rmin<^hy its steep and era^f^y banks u
kind of natural rampart. The eathcdral, a 'noble pile of Gothic architecture, standi
upon a |)laii'orm raised froni the bed o! the ri\er, and eonunands a nu)st extensive view.
The adjacent coimtry i-, richly euliivated, aiul agreeably diversified with hills, lawns,
wood, and water; the river ilous r.pidly below, and an abrupt chain of rugged and
snow-capt Alps bounds the distant hori::o!i. Such an assembly of wild and beautiful
objects wouUI, in ;Miy place, present a most striking prospect; but the etiect is greatU
lieis^hten. cl, uhi n sien i'rom the midst ol" a large town.
.\( cording to the native historians, Hern \ras built l)y Ikrchlold the Fifth, duke of
/'•;;riiigtn, and was, Irom it-, loundallon, an imperial cit) . Upiju his death in 1218.
the empiror Treckric the Second conferred upon the inhabitants considerable privileges,
and coni|)ik<l a c(jde, which forms the basis of th-. Ir present civil law. The liberty
v\hic;h this city enjoyed attracted many persons from the adjacent country, who found
a sure as} him from the oppression oi' tin nobles. AltluMigh Bern from its foundation
was engaged in perpetual wars with its iKighbours, and for some time with tiie house
■>f Austria ; yet it coiuinue d If) ag-randisc itself by degre es, and considerably enlarged
itsterrivory. In the year 13 '^.l Ikrn acceded to the Iklveiic e:onlc(leracy ; aiid possessed
>^uch power, even at that eaii\ period, as to obtain the second rank among the Swiss
i:antons. Since the ae(|uisition of the Pays de Vaud, the domains of ihis canton form
nearly the third part of Switzerland, and about the fourth of the actual population ; it
cejutains about 37(),()(K) souls, exclusive of 11,000 in the capital. At the introduction
of the reformation in 1528, government aeejuircd a large ijicrcuse of revenue by secu-
larizing the ecclesiastical possessie)us. At the same period the whole canton followed
the t xample of the capital ; and tht re formed religion was permanently established.
'J'he canton is divided into two great di\ isions, the Pays de Vaud and the German
district. The Pays de Vaud having been conquered from the house of Savoy, and the
(ierman district from the states of the etupirc ; justice is administered, and taxes regu-
lated in each by peculiar laws and customs. Ivich of these divisions has its treasurer and
chamber of appeal resident in the capital i *he chamber of appeal belonging to the Pays
de Vaud judges in the last resort, but the inhabitants of the German district may appeal
to the sovereign council.
The society is extremely agreeable, and foreigners are received with great case and
])oliteness. The men do not meet in separate societies, and the women are the life and
ornament of their daily assemblies, which begin about four or five in the afternoon, and
continue till eight, when the parties usually retire to their respective houses. Dancing
is a freepient amusement at Bern ; there is a public ball cvciy fortnight, and in winter
scarcely an evening passes wiUiout one. These diversions commence at so early an hour
as five in the afternoon, on account of a standing order of government, which prohibits
their continuance after eleven. Knglish country dances are usually introduced, but the
walse (which is a species of allemande) ihe favourite' dance of the natives, is most com-
mon ; the parties arrange themselves in distinct couples, atid follow each odicr in a cir-
cular direction, the gentleman turning his partner with great vtlocity. The life and
spirit of their dances strike an Englishman with astonishment, and can scarcely be con-
ceived by those who have nevet seen them. The gaiety ol the parties is still more enlivened
during the summer months, when the natives resort to a garden near the town, and
Avn IN' lur. corN'rnv m' inr (,ri:;'iv..
rtl!
Idle of the
cral fouu-
Tho river
l)tIo\v tlu
fV banks u
irc, -standi
sivc view,
ills, lawns,
uggcd and
I btautiful
t is grcatl)
h, duke oF
h in 1218.
privileges,
.'he liberty*
who found
foundation
I tlie house
ly enlarged
I possessed
the Swiss
aiiton form
tulation ; it
Urodueiioti
e by seeu-
)n followed
lished.
he German
oy, and the
taxes regu-
easurer and
to the Pays
may appeal
at case and
the life and
.•rnoon, and
Dancing
d in winter
irly anhour
;h prohibits
;ed, but the
most corn-
ier in a cir-
'he life and
ely be con-
•c enlivened
town, and
tlance undi r an open pavilion amid scenes of rural festivit}-. The (on i;;iKi- v, ho piv
fers the constant intereom-se of company to a more tMMf|uil .so. k ty, \ri!I choose ili" rcM
dence of Bern rather than that of any other town in Suit:ui land.
There i', but little trade ni the capital; sonu; few m iimiactun s i'kI. cd (ehid'.y ri
linen and silk) have been established, but are carried on by those oiily who Im-.v ii
Drospeet of being admitted into the sovcreiKu council. )'or those fimili^ s who enjo;.
any inllucncc in public allairs would hold tlu nisclve, digradul by ei.;;;a-nK.- m com-
me-rce . and as oHices of state, except bailli:igi., are iu gencnl not very i.roiuable, nor
indeed numerous, manv enter, as their sole u source, into loreigii ai mu s. One gencr.tl
advantage', however, is derived IWmi dusanti-commcreiil spint ; die m< nilRr,ol goy-'ru-
ment not being interested in laving restrictions on trade, do no', as at /urio ami l.ask.
confine the exclusive right t^f establishing manufactures to the bun.:,lKrs o( the cipital ,
but wisely extend that permission to all their subjects without div.nuUoii. from t us
circumstance, in conjunction with the mildness and wisdom of government, an.cs tha:.
comfortable state, and even aniucnce, which peculiarly dislinguislu s the peasantry m
the whole canton of Bern : to the natural result of these nise rigulauo!;s may be rea-
sonably imputed the attachment to go\ernment particularly o!jscrval)le m the t.erman
district." . . , , • . i .•
It is remarkable that the peasants, who have acquired opulence either by niaimlac-
turcs or agriculture, seldom quit dieir situation ; the} continue m the same habits which
they contracted in the earlier period of life, and, however wealthy, never give 'hen
daughters in marriage but to persons of their owi^ description.
The public buildings are constructed in a noble simplicity ol style, and announce llie
riches and grandeur of the republic. The arsenal contains aims lor sixty thousand
men, and a considerable quantitv of cannon, which are cast in the t(Mvn. 1 he granary,
an excellent institution, similar to that of /uric, always contains a largo provision ol
corn, supplied in eonscejuence of particular treaties by Krance and Ilcjiland.
• No siibiccts ever disuhiycd umv uttiulinunt to Uicir t;"v<nnnchl iIkmi \Uv pcav.nl-, n( \Uv. r;;iuoi. ,
•oulnumy insuuicts orcur \u ihc l.iston of hwu, vvluu tlay llo. k( d in cn.u.l. U. ih- .aDiUil. lo oll.^r
'tlicir asMblaiKc in sinmu'ssinj,' iill aUutipis lo ii.i.ke ii.novaU.ms ii. tl.c .■..n.nUiti,.,.. 1 l.ib iiijvamd
.,Uu-hiucnl to tlK' tumi.T Koxcrnmtnt is u suflicknl eulogy vi \\^ in.l.liuss a.ul (•.|imy, uiul allunls u
dccisivi- answer to all the rcproaclii-i. ul" tyrani.iial oli.'avchy, iukmI hy a te .\ lU .aiU.(K:il [u i ,uii^, an.l
exai;u'ral>'d Ijy tlie I'lTiirli. . •, r
-nt address of tl.r fifty drle^Mles rlin.cn U tlu- p. ..pie to as,..si iIic Mipiittf- r'.-i!,-,! :;i .:niclid.;:'.;
'lu' LOMSHtvition, brafs tiic luosl hououraljlr tisihnuiiy to llu' wImIoiu aiid mtcicnty .,1 no ,< i iimrnt :
. -, • .1 . .... .. .. 1. . .1 . .. I. , .> ^1 w . l; Ilk lilt ■■ ^•.IMII ! »i V 111 1 I .(* <M I V'l r
"hwas to salisfvyotir views, '.liat, as soon as v.e had taken oi:r plan sin tin asseni.uy ol u
' ^ * 1*1 ! t'..\ ... «!.,. 1 i.-i.#.i1 til l!.(» ffl
MJVLIII-
" 11 wa'^ lo saiisiv ) I"" >ii-"-») .iiuv, ..- .> ■ 1 1 ,■ 'i I
meiit. alten.'ious w'ere pi-oposed lo iis wiruli appeared iiselul m the L,u,e,al t'-'.od oi the conntiy, ami
.uituble to circumstances. We have supported these pr<.poMiions sviM. tniune.,. a,yuu eniii; .ud lo
us the care of co-operatiii},' as wc shall judive m ce ssary lor llie s d; ly oi the coun.ry.
i'lf it he true, that our constitution was not exempt fr-.m abuse-,, v,hi( h hum.m wc'.km^s render,
dmost inseparable from ^ovei-nnienls, lum- imuiy have alrea.ly .11 >ain)eare,l thi(.u;.,^h tiie u lidotn air! i.ru
dcnce of the administration? IVul we not possess, in the fiilU-A exn ,it. tlie -eonit; ol j.ersons an..
nroncrly, the two most precious advanlai^es of civil society "r Can the ad.nimstr.uion be ac u .'d ol .:
limile deviation from jtistice ? Can the mcnd)ers of our i;,,v,:rnmem be lepioariied v.,th the least ni
eliiiation thai could look like corruption ? Covild the treasures oi the stale b.- ;;dinnus',ered with sine
ter responsibility, w ilh i!,-reaier economv? And if the fertility -.1 a parclud and rorkv soil, il ihe pnr,
perity of a loyal iuiUon,that has preserved the ancient piiriiy of Us niaiii'ers.be mos! rertain prouls ol
ihc goodness of its p;overnment, is il not yourselves \v lio reiid^ r iliis i.-lor.ou-, u kUinoin lo the supr^ ,,m
power r Woe be lo von, if ever you cai\ forL;et il 1" ... ,• i
The heroic intrepidity of ihe peasants, wlio \oluntatily sa. riiic <1 f heir lives in deb n. c ot li.e t on
stiuilion, nolwilhsuuidin- the irresolution of the ij;<)vernnienl, plain!) proves diy. :!ube '...nUnK n--.
were iiideliblv impressed on the hearts of tlie pc opie.
The progress of tlie fatal u \oluti(.n in the caiiion of iJrrn, and di -(il'.'.'.ion lA tin ;;ovei niDe.i;. :•■■
related in the iutroduclory acrouiU cd'tlie c'.Mi(|uesl(>l S\\ iizei l.uid
VOJ.. \, ' ■' '!
I
.«•;>(,
^\r".- ruAvr.i.a in su rrzERLANn,
l"ii( .li.uii.iiili in<,tifiitioMs ;itv numtroiis, lilnral, and well directed. The hospitah
•III III frtiur.il brtre, ck.iii, ;iii(l aiiA ; and, in the alms house lor the reception ol' fifty
poor citizens, i-, a mrions establishment similar to one uhich I notieed at Basle. Dis-
'usMdtravdIers are treatid with a nualand a lod^int,', il'at night, and receive sixpence
'-n iIk ir departure ; if sic k or uonnded, thiy are nuiiutaiiied till their recovery.
The house of eijneetion which, when the hem volint Mr. Howard visited Hern, was
11. so diplorahle a state, is now extremely well uj^iilated, and relleets- },'reat honour on
iM. Manuel, nu ml), r uf the |rreat council, to whose care and attention this salutary
chan^a' is chi. liy owln^'. I'urnitrly all delin<|U(.nts, without distincti(jn, were eonfined
togeihir, hut are now separated; tuo houses are established, one called the house of
. nrnciion for griaier crimes, and the other the house oi" libour for misdemeanors.
I he prisoners -te ;iho (lisrrinunated by the appellations of brown and blue from the
'•ol(.ur ol thiir doih. s, with uhieh tluy are supplied gratis during the term of their
oMifiiKimni ; tli< brown cnlonr is approi)riate(l to the house of correction, the blue to
the house ol lal.cur. The men and women are lodged in separate aparlnients. Roth
are coir.tanlls impluud, soinelinus in eleiiiing the streets, and other servile occu|xt.
tioiis ; at other limes they are taught to nad and write, and in.^lructed in various trades,
u Inch may assist thein in gaining a maintenance at the exi)iration of the time for which
they ucre sentenced to hard lal)our. IJy these means the cxpence of the establishment
«s nearly supported, and an honest livelihood assured to those who would otherwise prove
useless or pernicious members of societ}-.
There are four tables, at whicli the respective seats are a mark of distinction appropri-
;itcd to good behaviour, and a Inrger or ksser share of provision is distributed to each in
proportion to their industry. After earning their food, the prisoners in the house of
labour receive ten percent, those in th.c house of correction eight per cent, for their cxtni
nork.
Public justice is wisely and impartially administered ; and the torture, which had for
-ome time lallen mto disuse, is now formally abolished bv a public act of government.
1 his humane and just net forms a distinguished a;ra in the history of Swiss jurispru-
dence ; as the example of so powerful and wise a government cannot fail of having a
general influence ; and it is to be hoped, will be tlv. prelude to the abolition of tortiirc
throughout Switzerland.
The solemnity used in passing capital sentence on a criminal deserves to be mentioned
and imitated. The trial being finished, the prisoner is informed of his condemnation
uy the grand sautier, or lieutenant of the police, and attended by two clergymen, whf)
prepare him for death. On the day appointed for execution, a large scaffold, covered
with a black canopy, is constructed in the middle of the jirineipal street. The avoyer,
with a sceptre in his hand, is seated on an elevated kind of throne between two senators'
and attended by the chancellor and lieutenant of the police, holding an iron stick, called
the rod ol blood, all habited in their ofhcial robes. 'I'he criminal being brought to the
foot of the scaflold without chains, the chancellor reads aloud the sentence of condem-
nation, at the conclusion of which the avoyer bids the executioner approacli, who in-
stantly binds the arms of the culprit, and leads him to the place of execution.
The public library is a small but well chosen collection, containing 20,000 volumes,
a cabinet of Swiss coins and medals, and many curious manuscripts, of which M. Sir.ner',
a man of great erudition, has published a judicious catalogue. He has not only set forth
their titles, and ascertained their age, but has also given a general and succinct account
of their respective subjects, and from many has published extracts equally curious and
inttrcstmg. Among these MSS. arc some of the thirteenth centurv, consisting of sr.
fiSiJ \H nil '.OUNlRi CJ THE r, J! I SON'
«..
vcr.il .juiigs uiid rom;mi:t's ol' the Troul'idoiirs, writtrn in that and th-' pivrtdiiii,' anc-'
which merit the attention of those who arc toiivtrsant in ih.it spec it i o! ancient p(Ktr).
Lcainin.i? is neither so univerfculiy tnc()Mraf:fed, nor so suec <'ssrull) cnltivuti d hirr asai
Zuric; the ur.adeiuical stndies are principally directed to iho'c l)ranch(s of knowledf^'C
more essentially necessary for entenn),^ into tlie chureli. Th'.: society for promittion ol
agriculture is almost the only estahlishmeaU directly tindin;.; to [ironun*' i[\>: ai'^ and sei
'.iice-i, but meets widi little counteir.mce from government.
(ictohn, 17H(.
1 ittL a very scnsilile salistaction on adding, that this enlii;hien<{l goveriuuent no
ionger merits the reproach of \\<A sudiciently encouraging liieraUiri' ; it is now awakened
from its former lethargy, and begins to perceive that it is the interest (W t very wise state to
cbleem and protect the sciences. The magistrates have lately purchaseil and appropri^'cd
a large mansion for the public library, increased the collection of books, and prf)cured
from England an extensive apparatus for experimental philosophy.
Among other undertakings, a new m.ip of the canton is now preparing under theii
auspices, by the professor of experimental philosophy, a great desideratimi ii\ the geo-
graphy of Switzerland, as the Alps of the canton are incorrectly delineated in all the map^
which have fallen under my observation. 1 am also happy to add, that the Kev. M.
Wyttenbacii has lately instituted a literary society for the promotion of i)hysics and na-
tural history in general, and tiiat of Swit/.erland in particular. In January 1783, this
society consisted of ten members resident at Bern, of whom several possess, and others
arc forming collections agreeable to the plan of the institution. The members have
established regular correspondence in various parts of Europe, and readily answer the
inquiries of foaign naturalists, relating to the natural history of this country. An insti-
tution founded on such liberal and extensive principles, and having one (jbject principall>-
in view, cannot fail to render the most essential service to science. I am, 8<c.
en, who
called
rumen
t
LETTER LVl,
Ciove/'fiment of Bcrit.
WERE I to attempt entering into a minute disquisition concennng ttie g
of Bern, my letter would not only exceed its proper limits, but would hardly be con'
tained within the extent of an ordinary pamphlet. I am persuaded, therefore, you nil
readily excuse me from putting your patience to so tcdiotis a trial ; but you will proba
bly think me very inconsistent indeed, if after having already descended mto less inter
esting details, I should pass over in silence a government, the wisdom of whose adminis-
tration is so jusdy admired. Let me endeavour then to sketch the general outlines of this
constitution.
The sovereign power resides in the great council of two hundred ; which, when
complete, consists of two hmidred and ninety-nine members, chosen from the citizens;
from whom they arc considered as deriving their power, and as acting by deputation.
The authority with which the}- are invested is, in some respects, the most uncontrolled of
any among the aristocratical s <fes of Switzerland. The government of Luccrn is in-
deed called the most aristocratical of all the cantons ; and it may be so perhaps with re-
spect to the small number of families, to which the administration of affairs is entrusted;
but uo war can be declared, no peace concluded, no alliance made, no taxes imposed.
5 q,3
I
ijj:
• ONfc.', IK WEI. 3 IN SUI UIHI.AM*,
.sitlif.M the consi 111 oftlu' l)iirj;h< IS in ;\ iiji'iur.il :tss< mhly. At I'rilxirj^h and SDlttjn
I he Uiiij^licis an likewise (i)iutunl upon ji.riii ul.ir ocrasioiis ; \\lKrta'> \Uk ^rcai couni;)!
»riKrii ;sin(i I(i.Sj, wlun it \\a*><K( laad ilu:s(»VLivij;n) is restrained l>y lux^onstitutional
check of this kitiil ; as a Kimral assiinhly "l the ritii^ens is mvcr <«)nveiie(.l on an)
)(:( asion.
Tht t Mculivi |)i>\\(is of f^ovcnuniiu are deli jj;at< d l»\ iliis sovenif^n council to tht
leiuiu, I hosen '>\ tin nisi Ives from thiii own ljod\ ; the former asseinhle.s ordinarih
iIiTit. liiiKs a \\( tk, aiulextraordinarilx upon paitiiidar «u:t'asjon> ; the senate every day,
Stnul.iNs e.\e« pud.
'I'hi siiiate, eonipribiii}; the two avoycrs, or chii fs of the ripuhlifs, is composed ol
luenl} -seven memlnrs; and from this vlict body arc drawn the prim ipal ma^istralcs.
On a Aat alley in the senate, H\iiit\ -^ix balls, thiie of \\hi<h are (;(jMin, arc put into a
l)ox, and drawn Ijv the several members; those who draw the thrie j^oldi.n balls nomi-
nate three « lictors otit of ilu ir body. In the sann" manner bi ven niemlKrs arc chosen
from tin. j^iiat coniieil, uho also noniinati si\tn tidtors out of their own body. 'I"hcs«>
tin elector^ lix upon a (erUiin number ol CandidaU s, not i xeiediiijj; ten nor less than si.K ;
.iiul tliosi .inioi!);; tiuse candidalis who have the lewist \otis in the soverei}.ni eonneil
n lire till tluir luitnbu- is ndnced t«) four; iIkii four balls, two j^oldeii and two silver,
ale drawn by the fonr ivmaininf;- candidates, the two wlu) draw the former are put in
nomination, .iiid he who has the )j^reatcst number fjf snll'raj^es in the sf»vi.ri if^n e.oune.il is
f hosen. lint, to Ik elii;ible, tlu- e;indi(late nnist h;ivt been ;i member of the great eoun-
eil tin years, and inu'-t be m.rricd or a widowir. *
'I'he f^rcat council is yuu rally filled up i very ten years ; ;is within that period tht re is
usually a dericicne\ of eighty members lo complete the wliole number of two hundred
and ninety- nine. A new cle( tion can only bi' proposed on a \ acancy of eij^hiy ; and can-
not be di ferred w hen tlierc is a ddicieiu y of a hnntlred. Tlii' time of the ek ction being
determined by vote, e;ich avoyer nominates two of the new members; each sei/.enicr,
iiudvacii mernbtr of the senate, or.i ; \\\o or three officers of state enjoy the same privilege.
A few persons claim, by virtue e'f their oliices, ;i riglit of being elected, and aie generally
iidmilted. Tin si several nominatiuns ;ind pretensions commonly ;imount in the whole
to about fifty ; the remaining vacancies are supplied by the snffrageb of the senate and
tlie sei/.eniers. I
• Mr. riuhUi justly <)I)m ivi «, ilii.t, uUhouyli 1 htive jvibily ikscrilicd this inudc of Iwlloiiiijj v\iili siil-
.•iiii'jit lucurat ), \ii 1 IkiM' not poiiucd oiil llic init objects, whitli lu; llius lUscrilics :
"'riii:u\is(in (ilthis upvatid iilu riialitm liy lot uiid Ij.dloi i\iiiii<»l but be (ibxious to those who will
•jcsKiw soiiii- ilionv;hl upon llie Mil)j«« t. Its (;re;ai'st extellnicf ijirhaps ccjiihislcd in niiikiiit^ liu;
I lutuie ol' lots ap|)iy ehirlly to the ilitlors, uU'l not to those who iiii|;lu initnid totiii' s\h ( issioii ; l)y
"ivhiih iiHuiisliic duiigeious rfl'ii ts ol" (.Mbid wtic inu >i;reul nuasun (jbviiitcii ; iindytlu fair prospe'cl
urbiiitiss \,;is fjivfii to till' ihi'iitoiious, while thosi' wholly imqiiulitii-d i ould < iiin'tain litilt- hope ot
biiu^!, p:'if< I'l'rd. The scUcti'd ( aiididalis drew lo'.s only iu one siai;;e of the pl•o(■et•di^^|;, aiul this
kvlieii tlieir iir.iulur, txini; I't dui ed to only lour, an even thunee WiiS i^iveiiio those lew to whom emi-
•lent nualiiie-.itions had siiuieil the inarkeil ajiproliation of their l'<-|lo"-eilizeus ; and when foriiiiU!
proved uni"av(miat)le in one insiame, repeated (jppcjriunilies would occur in which, imlesb she |)roved
sinu'darly uupropiiious, the desired ohjc ct would ultiniac.ly be obtained. This niodt: will admit of
Tuii'h meiruatiou, and m.iy p( rliap-. alVord some hints lot imii.ition. It has here In'en e.\.plaine(l some-
.vhat at larijr. iis no simil.ir iiisiiiuiioii o( cut > lu any republic, either ancient itr modern." I'lunta'!?
Hi jtoiy oltlie Ilelveiie tlonl'edi racy, vol.ii. p. Jill.
-f 'I'his measure of deferrin!^ the election till the number of vacancies ainoimled to eij^luy, though
;!0t <luni';erous in tinus olirantiuiUity, was fxtremely impolitit in a period of innovation. It greatly
contiil)Ute!l to disorL;a!iise the governmen'., at the couimencemeni of the late revolution, as ihc admis-
iionof so many new memliers, who were mostly inlccled with i'rench })rinciplr.-., pro\ed tin- source
of tliat lluituaiion wliieii ilislin;^;',.isht;! UiC council'iol'ihis govtrnmeui, and prteipilaled its Uowntali.
\ > II i.N > II I. I i.i N i I
• n I h . i.M ,!]%*
«.!')
I NdIiiim
tt council
aitutictiial
(.1 o\\ an)
oil to till
itrdiiKuil}
very d.ty,
ll|IUM-d ol
l^islI•alcs.
)iit iiild a
ills iioiui*
rf tliosin
y. 'I'licsr
than six ;
I) ('()niu:il
v«) si I VI r,
iri' put in
'.(Hiiu'.il is
vat covin-
i\ tli( TL is
I Imnclicd
and can-
ion Ixing
'.ci/.<.'nicr,
piivilcgc.
f^cncraily
he whole
:natc' and
jj \\illi sill-
i; wlio will
IKlkill!^ tlu:
ishioii ; l)y
r prospict
lit- liupc ol
Ki aiul tliis
rlioiii rmi-
111 fortiiiu;
■>la' provcil
II admit of
iutd SOllR'-
l'luiita'9
ty, iIioukI'
It griiiily
lIic uiiinis-
llu- soiiici;
) ilowiitUli
The sfi/miiis arc sirvtun nu inlur-. <>| the j^t* at coiuu il, drawn xtirty troin tin al)
havts or tnl)«.s; iwoliotn i.uli «it (hi liuir miat trilKs,ancl om IVdiii «• ichol tiii. ri ni liii
iiif^ light; the candidates arc ^;iiuriill\ • taki n iVoin those uIim have cscrristd the ol!i. c
ol hailitls ; and are tle( ted \>\ lot. Iwtiy u^irdniiii^Mhri-r days at I'.aster, all othtr (. in
plovnients ill the state arc su^pviuhd, i xt i |)t lliuse ol the haiinciitii and the s( i/Aiiiers,
who are invested with an anlhority similar to lliat ol the Uoiuan ei iisurs. In ease ol'tnah
udininistraiion, they may remove any iiieinbirlroin tlu ^rtat council, or senate; hut it is
u power which tlu \ never esercise ; and bhould tluy thi:)k proper toexcri it, the sen
teiiee nuist be contirnied I)) the coiilieii.
The principal inajfistrates are, two avuycrs, two treasurers, and Ibnr haniKnts; e.icli
chosen b}' a majority ol' voices in the sovereign council, and yearly conrnimd in tlnii
respective oIVk es. 'I'lie avoyus hold their post lor lile ; the treasurers, si\ vears; and
ihc bannerets, lour. Al Ivisler the avover in olHcc delivers up his authority, in lull
couiu;il, U) his eolleaffiit. 'J'he rei;^niii!^ avover sits on an elevated seat, iiiuler ;i canopy,
and the sialolthe republic lies upon the table belore him. lie never delivers his opi
nion exec pt it is deinantled ; he enjovs no vole unless the numbers ;irc ecpial, and in ih;i'
case he has the castiiij:^ voice. The cx-iivo}ir is the lirsi scn;ilor in r;ink, and president
ol'lhc secret council.
The twotrcasunrs, one lor theOirman district, and the other for the Piysde Valid,
form, in conjunction with the Ibnr bannerets, an economical chamber, or council ol
linancc ; t which passes the actounis (jf the bailills, and receives the revenues I'rom those'
who arc accountable to government, 'i'hc four bannerets, together with the ex-avoyer,
the senior treasurer, and two memlH rs of the senate, eomi)ose a committee or secret coun-
cil, in which all state iilVairs, reejuiring secrecy, arc discussed.
• I »uy !);cni.i;illy, lurausi ii is not alis'^liilcly fixed, tiuil iilltlu' siizciruis miist liavr Iici-ii I)aililV>>,
for if il ii.ippi 11^, iliat in one irii)c llifi'c are tuo pif.ions one of wlmiii lias l)iin a l»aililV,aiid tlir oihn
AH a incnibi v of the n'leat counc il, tluy dfaw lots for the ili.a'^c. And shunld a nuiid" r of the i^i'iat
couiH'il Iju the t)nly one of histrilu', lie hecoines seiaenii!' ol coiir-'e, provided he is idii;il)le. In or-
der to 1)1' SI i/.enier, the Candidate must he nunied, or a widower, and have neither his fat In r or luo
thtr in the senate.
■f The linunees were r»'jj;iilate(l v^iih the snietv:-; '.'l ouomy. ami y-l the e.\pi •'disiin- vias answeiv.hic
•o the di^^nitv <<l tlu' repuhlic.
Tint salai.es >>\ llie piim ipal iiM^istrutes vvei'e exli'enicly lui ili late :
lieii;niiiij; avoyei' - - p/o!.
Senators eatli - - . l.vil.
H.iiuuri'.s - . . . j;,(ii.
The reveiuu s \vi re derived prim ipally fiom tin ])iiMic deiiu sues, which weie ;i|)pri>piialiil at the
tunc of the Kel'orination, the tithes se(|ii.ster( d at the s.ime period, autl asii^iied to tin' mainti iianet;
•fllu! cleif^y, [)id)lie seminaries, and<.ha itahle iiis'.itiiiions ; (piit-re'tils, and laonopoly of salt, anil ^'iia-
powder; product of the post-ofliee, customs and tolls, duly on wine iufpoii.' d iiuo the lapit il, and
fines imposed for misdemeanois; also a tax on the alienalioa of lauded property in the I'renih dis-
trict j the interest of nuMieyui cumulated from a rei;ulur projjrcssiou ofsavin|^s, of which near .6UO,ouol,
•*t're loel^jeel in the laiejlish fimels.
The- whole reveraie has been stated, hy tlu best authorities, a* not exceeding .!0(),()i)0 erown ,
which were always more than sulVieieui to sujjply the espe lalilure, and to eonstruei and -aipport the;
Jii.iii;iiiliceiit \)uhlic wurUs. A la I'lje treasure was always resi ivedin a v.uill ol the i ai)ital for the sup-
ply of sudden emerja nrics, and the care oftiiis vault cnMiisieil to the priiu ipal iiuii,'istralis, who had
«'ach a separate key, ami without their cfiucurreiice, and a special order from the soverei^^n coiuicil,
the iloor coidd not he opeiu el.
The umount of this trei.sure coidd not he accurately ascertained, but it must have lieen very consi-
derable as not less than 16 ),(J')e)l. suriini^ was deposited in the iiKjuntains of llasli and Dbcrland. The
pillage of this treasure w.is one uflhe |)iiiicipal oiijecls of tne freiu li dii'ee tory,loelcfray the expencCK
of their armament against l'".gypt. In tlie plunder of Ucrn, the I' reach did not acquire Icbs than
■lOOjOUOi. in specie.
&.>4
CO\L 2 lltA\il.3 IS ^U t t<;i.h1,ANU,
I iMve r»nl\ ill ■n.rilml iIk'**' ii}?l»l ln:l^;ist^•;^^ic•<, u«i bciiif; llto tliii-i «;Jhkri of ihc stiilc
iiiul I xirciM (I I)) iikiuIhis (if till* HiKili. Hilt aUhoii^li the iorm (•( this cuiiHtilutiou
Is ;nist()(ra»iciil, :iiul the sinatc (idssi'sst s u viry (•t)iif.i<kr.il)lc iiifliu'iicc, \« t U dots not
enjoy th.it iihnost i xi Ursivr unthoiit), which isohscrvahk- in intny .»ri-.torr.itioal j^ovcrn
fjunth. I'f>r, liy m viral wisi- and will-obsuvtd rc};iiLtionH, the sovtrii^ii council,
allh'niph it dilifj:.itrs the n\('^t imnortant comirns of >;ovtriniunt to the senate, )cl as
Meinl)lisat slatdl tunes, and sn|Krnit( luls tlie adniinistration ol puMic aH'airs.
It may also I)c remarked, tliat altlnini^Hi the iMrjeni housis retiln very considerahle
inlUience, and are inort readily entrusted uiih the administration ol aflairs ; yet the jiriii.
ripah h.irj^cs are ii(»t ixehisi\el) eontintd to them, nian\ iiiw rnnilies bein^ admitted
into the soveiiign eomieil on every ileetioii. It must nevertheless be ackno\vIedfj;ed,
that, as the eiti;-.(ns are eontinn.tlly diminishini^, and tho vaeancies never supplied ; it
\vniild uill beconu' bo uisc a ^^o\irnin'.nt to reeeivc occasionally new families into the
liiiij^h* r-.hi|>, ill ordtito previ nt tin. ill itKctM ari-^inp;- from the partial and narrow spirit
of loo i oiiliiicd an olij;areh\ . * (lovt rnmeiit is aihninistered ihrouf^hont its scvcr.il dc-
partnunis with ^reat preeision, ami every ordinance exeeui«d with as much dispatch as
ma monarehieal state. 'I'lu' administration is condueied with ^reat wisdom and inodC'
r.itioii, and ihr rulers are pariieul.irly eaulious not to encroach upon the privileges of die
subjeet.
'I'he canton is divided iiiio a certain number of districts, iilled i)i»iHia>;cs, over wh
bailifls are chosen from the sovereij;n council ; and these po^ts being the most profit;
in the disposal ol j^oxernment, are the fi;reat oljjects of general pursuit. Formerly the:
bailiffs, taken indifl'ereiuly from the senate or great council, were nominated by the
bannerets ; but us this method rendered the members entirely dependent upon those
who hatl the chief credit and influence in the commonwealth, tlic mode of election was
iiitcred in 1712, and they are now chosen by lot. No competitor, however, can bi
received as a candidate, in opposition to a more ancient member of the grei', council .
tor instance he who was admitted in 1766, cannot stand against one chosen in 1756.
\one but married men or widowers are eligible ; nor can any person occupy more than
once the principal bailliagesi those of a less profitable kind may be possessed three
limes.
'i'he b.iilifls are r>. pn sentatives of the sovereign power in dicir respective districts;
they enforce the edicts of government, collect the public revenues, act asju3ticesof the
[jcaee, and arc judges in civil and criminal causes, except where there is any localf ju-
•isdiciion. In civil causes, beyond a certain value, ana|)peidliesto the cou ' • of Hern :
in criminal aifairs, the process undergoes a revision in the senate, and is referred to the
'.riminal cliandxr, which inilii;ts punishment for small misdemeanors; in capital cases,
die sentence must be confirmed by the senate, and by the sovereign council, if thedelin-
juent is a citi'<ien of Hern. The bailiff deli vers his accounts to the economical chamber,
K) which comi an apjxal lies, in case of exaction on the part of the bailiff, or of hii offi-
cers; and withnspect to misdemeanors punishable l)y fine, of which the bailiff is enti-
tied to a share, the proportion of the penalty is not left to the arbitrary decision of an in
lerested judge, but setdid by die legislature with die most scrupulous exactness.
' Sinre the puljlicalion of this uork, the govirnmcnt adniittcd some new Inirj^liers both from thv
Piiys dc Valid, and fioni llu- Gtiniaii district. Aiiiony thi-sc was M. Cerjiat of I..iusai»m!. Hut liir
iminbcr vas too small to piodiUM' any m.itLrial cHVci ; and tlie a(hnis!>ioh was cloyycd with so iinny
restrictions, tlial no advani:ii;e contil be iliiived b<loie ll\e tiiird generation.
t The hjrd of (lie estate of Diesh.K ii enjoys, within his own hinds, the same powers in criminal a1
fairs, us aie possessed l)y the bailiffs in their respective districts.
Avn r\ tttu f'M'NM!" o; riir mtsoN,
8...,
the HtlltC
)itstiuitimi
I docs Jiot
ill Kovcrii
I cuuncil,
ic, ycl ii»
msicKral)!*:
t the priii-
j^ admitted
lowlcdjjjcd,
ipplitd ; it
ics into the
rrow spirit
SI vera I dc-
dispatch as
and inodc-
Ugcsol'ihc
over wli
St profit;
urmcrly the
^tcd by the
II poll those
lection was
v(.'r, can be
r . council :
un in 1756.
y more than
icssed three
vc districts;
sticcsol'thc
y localt j«-
»•• ol" Hern :
erred to the
apital cases,
if the dehn-
:al chamber,
r of hii otti-
iiililV is enti-
ion of an in
tness.
both from thi
lUiu-. Hul ilK"
willi so in.iii>'
in criminal u1
Altlioii^h, from nil •Ikho con^idiMtion>, it sl»r)nld v cm, that rv<'ry p»>s>*il>k' piviauii »ii
*)a» ln<ci ti\\'x\\ l\\ ^fOMTiiMiiiit to prevent the fxf'rtions of tli" h.jilitl's ; yd in^t.lnee^
hnve icit \kau u.'ntin^ fo j ki'c, th:<.t til' s- nisc ii;)d strict rt.pnl.itions ntay he thultd ;
these instaiircsart' vciy few , bnt several (Aitmples occiir \'\ which csuirtimis hivr h(<n
severely piiuish(<l, and the >;f>virnnient histveii nlicun j!;real readiness to listen to all
.ilMUals, and to afford sp<'<d\ ledrtss.
I'he profits of the baililV's oihn. arise from ilie pr'iduce of the demisnc-t, of tin tythfs,
certain duties paid to ^r)virnment in the nspictixe luilli ij^es, and from the lines im-
posed for criminal olfences. In some part of the (li rman division, the hailifV is entitled,
uponiiu death of every peasant, lo a di.tern\inatc part of the inh«ritanei' ; althonf,'h his
^hare is very inconsiderabli', \et in some sitnalinis it nuiy prove an oppressive tax upon
tlu- family. Thia tax is the f)iily instance that luis fallm uiuK r my knowled).'< , where tli''
peasants of this canton arc liable to any imposition, whi» h can justly be deemed p;ric\ous
Although ilu'ri' are no standin^• armies in Switzerland ; yet in many of the cantons,
and particularly in Bern, the militia is s'> well ie}^-uli.ied, that f;ov( rnincnt can assemiili
u very considerable body of men at a moment's warnin;^. To this end every male at
the age of sixteen is enrolled, and about a third of the wh<jle number arc formed into
particular regiments, composed <;f I ileers and ek clionaries ; the former eon.iislin^-
of batchelors and the latter of man id men. I'lvery person thus enrolled, is o!)li;j;t.(l
to provide himself, at his own i xjjenee, will, an nnilorm, a musket, aud a certain
fjuantitv of powder and ball ; and no peasant is allowed to marr} , unless he prodi.ces
his unilorm and arms. Mverv vear a certain number of olVieers, who aic called land
majors, arc deputed by the council of war, to inspect the arms, to complete the regi-
ments, and exercise the militia. Beside this annu il reviv w, the regiments arj occasionally
exercised by veteran soldiers, appointed for that purposr.
Beside the arms in the arsenal of Bern, a certain (juantity is also provided, in the ar-
senal of each bailliage, suHicient for the militia o'i that district ; and likewise a sum of
money amounting to ihrei months' pay, which is appropriated to the electioiuiries in ease
of actual service. The dragoons are chosen from tlic sulistantial farmers ; as each per-
son is obliged to proNide his horse id\(\ ;ccoutrenKnts. In time of peace, the avoyer
out of oflice is president of the eoimeil of war, and a menibcr of that council is com-
mander of the militia in the Pavs de Vand ; but during war a general in chief is nomi-
nated for the Ibrces of the republi'.;. A certain numljer of regiments being thus always
in readiness, signals are fixid on the highest part of each bailliage, for assembling the
militia at a particular ph-.^e in ea«.h district, where Uiey receive orders for marching.
Before I close this letter, I shall just mc luion an institution called the cxtc rior ^itate,
as remarkable for its singularity as utility. It is a model of the scnercign council,
and is composed of those burghers, who have not attained the age requisite for entering
into that council. It has a great council, a senate, two avoycrs, treasurers, bannerets,
and scizeniers ; a'l of whom are chosen in the *;sual manner, and with the accustomed
ceremonies. The post of avoyer in this mimic community h solicited with great assi-
duity, and sometitncb obtained at a considerable expencc ; as the successful candidate is
always admitted into the great council, without any thrthcr recommendation. This
body possesses a certain number of bailliages, which consist of several ruined castles dis.
[)ersed over the canton ; it has also its common treasure, aiid its debts. In this last
article, however, it by no means resembles the actual government of Bern, which is not
only free from debts, but possessed of a very considerable fund in reserve.*
• The biwlgc orco-.'tol'iu'ius borac by thi'. iiumic com.uonwculth, is uii :\\)': ■M\iv^. oa ;> lobslor, anr*.
vicwinjj hiuihclf in a mirror.
;■!;■)«'.
o": r,
I II \v I I :: I N :;\\ i r/.F.i! r. \N n,
'I'lii'^ iviiv.iik.ihk' i'lstiliuion, vna} Ix. consiclcrcil as a politli; il Mininnry lor llio yn\itl,
ol" Ijliii. It n iiclns tluin iic(iiiiiinti d with ilu' forms ol' tlif ^ oiisnu'iicii ; imtl, as tlu
nRinbrrsdtiialr upon all kinds of pnlii'ui'.l siihJKts, allord, llv.n; an (ipjx.rtiinit} ofcx
(•rcisiii!i, and im]ir(nin;; tin if laU ills, and In that means ol" hccon.ni;.'- more cajmhlc ot
'nini;' ih • |r,il)li'-, whuKwr ihvv nui) Iv admitted to a shan; intlic athninistration.
I am, he
ijvrri'.ii i.Mi.
Jii,>^^r,!/)/uraI (ml I Jtrr.u'ii . ttifrrlota 'if Ilullcr.
WVAW ha-, |iro(hii.xd i'lw men hifi,hly cminiiit in litcntmv ; but lias cstal)lish(.cl hot
i;i'/i in hiiiiL; llir biiUi-plai'c nf tho cckbralcd U.illcr.
AiljC'it llaikf, • llic youn^^vst of liNe !>r()th(-rs, was born on the lOth of October 1708.
His ladier, Kmanml llatlcr, a citi:.in of T'trn, practised the law as ;vn advocate with L!;ieai.
success; and in \~,{'^ I'.v.sMwd from the capital to Haden, wlicre he was ap[)ointccl so
I'lvtary cf that Ijainiat;i .
Althonjjjh man)' arcounis arc usually rLhited Ci^.necniinj:^ the ','arl) t^cnius of distin
!j,-uished persons, which do not tilways deserve implicit credit ; yet the premature abili-
cies and application of Mailer are incoiUesta!)ly proved. When lie had scarcely attained
his fii'th }ear he was accustomed to write the new words, which he recollected to have
htard in the course oi' the day. His proj^rts-, in the Ianguat;e was so rapid, that in his
t( nth year he could traiislate iVoru the C'lieek, and compo:->ed lor his private use a dial
dai(; grammar, a Greek and Hebrew lexicon. His passion for letters was also so t^vne-
ral a'ui ardent, that, about the same period, he abridged Irom liayle and Morcri an
historical dictionarv', eotnprising above two thousand lives, and distin|.oii.shed himself by
i satire in Latin \ersc at.niinst his preceptor i\braliam P.^iiloU?:, a ptr-on of considerable
learnint;, but of a capricious and monjsc disjiosition.
Such unwearied application, and astonishins.;- prtigress in a youth, ouglit to have en-
sured the approbation and encourai^emeiit of his family. On the contrary, liis lather,
who had destined him to the law, reproved his growini;- taste lijr polite literature, was
particularly ollcnded at his inclination f(jr poetry, as likely to draw him from the severer
occupations, and ol^jccted to the \ariet} of his pursuits as too desultory .iiid superl'icial.
• Till' nuiM ri,ilsl'ni'lli!-,l)i(i;viM'>!,i(al -.kt icii.ai'c cliu fly cfilitcii'.! IVoin tin- r()ll')\vir.i; livrsofiliis -j;rc-iii
Kiun, wliii !i. I wa-, iiiloriiKd by liis eldest mid, sinct- (K'ltMscd, tU'c iIiom' to uiiicli inosl ci't'dit may he
•i-ivin. 1. 1/. hrii (ii's Hiriu von llalliT, hy (Ji'ori'c ZlminrniKin. Z\i!!i', I7.sj. The amlidi- was tlif
cllsiiplc \\'.\C\ IVicnd of Halli 1'. .;. Lobu'dc. aurilcrni Allii'crli! \i)n If ;!Kt, von II -nil sow lialthasar.
Hast-i, !""». Tlic laiUior ufs Jlallii's intimaU' friend, and was wiil a((|nainlL(l uiih tlu; piimipal
i.V( Ills oi' his lilV. Ill' is the sanu' '.■,iiuliinaii whom 1 luni- nu niionci in xol. i. Li Ui-i' .^J. .>. !,o!)H.'di.'
aiiT Ilc'un \il)C'rt UulK-r. Dun Ir, V. iJ. Tschunur dc-s (jrossfn Ualiis, kc. llrrn, I77B. .M.
'i> liai'iii-i-, biiii!;- •;. nallxc of lUrn, and an intimate accjuiirtatici; ol' llallor, liis account deserves ini-
plii it rridi;. llo \\as author of several esteemed works oi thf topoKiajihy and liistory of Switzerland,
lie died in ITTu, a shoit \\u\v al'irf he had pvonovinccd this i).'ini i^yiic on hisili;cc'i:scd friend. -1 Eloi';(;
]lislori(iiit; d'Alli-'i'i dc llalii r, avtc tin Calalotjiii; dc scs Ucuvns. Cicnevf, 1778. Seunebicr, tlu-
writci (j1 lliirj culoi;iuin, is well known as the learned author ol Bibliolheqiie de Geneve, and of His-
loirc LiUei'airc de tlene\e. lie inforn-.s us, that he received sevei'al aiu:ctloles from the uiniily of
Ilaliir.
Main other panet^-yrich and lives ()!' Haller havi' been ptiblished in \ai'ioU'- i)arts of lan'ope; but as
they wcie r.uj.iliy written l)y those who were not pei'sonaliy ai:(jiuiin;ed willi him, I have not ( iteiklieni
us a"lhoiities. liis --on mentions nineteen li\es ami pani'j^yi'ies of Ins f.vther. that had fallen nndei' his
notice in 1781 See Bibl. Sehw<it. (ieshicli. vol. ii. No. SbJ — UOfi. 1 have been enabled to add sev(-
I'al anecdotes which I procured at IJern, and from his eldest son the late bailltVof Nyon.
1 Ik: eoinple'.est list of Haller's works i.-. to i)e foinHl in the 6tl\ \oluinc; of "llpistohB ad IFallenim
srriptiX."' Ikiii; 177j. liis subscfjuenl piiblieations may be supplied from Sennebicr's eat.docjue
AND IS I MI. ( f)T'.\i n y
nil. f;nisoN,
857
lie yovitl.
id, as tlu
t} of ex
iilion.
am, he.
iisliLcl Iict
bcr 1708.
ivitli Li;iaii.
)iiittcl sc
of distill
urc abili-
y attained
(1 t(j hivi.
hat ill liis
>c' a C'luil
I so ^xnc-
Uon.ri an
liinscir I)y
iisidcrablc
) have Lii-
lis ilithcr,
ituiv, was
he severer
uperl'icial.
jfihis ;^rc-Li'.
L'dil may he
.lioi- was till-
1 Ualtliasar.
k; piiiuipa)
,). !,(>!)! cdc
1778. M.
c'Sfr\ i.s ini-
jwitzcrland.
. I r:ioi;(;
nicbicr, ilic
iiiul (if Ills-
IV uiinily of
'Opt.' ; bill a:i
I {itciUl'.i'm
II un(.U;r lil:.
1<1 11(1(1 .SfVt •
(1 IFallcniiii
lai.ilocjiif
He did not consider, that, diirinjr childhood, t'le priiieijjal object of tdticatioii is to in
fuse a Uiste lor application in ireiicral ; and, that when the ba^e is rendered as bro-.d as
possibk , it may always, like a pyramid, be ntluec d to a i)oint. lint neither his father's
repeated exhortations, nor iiis |)receptor's severe admonitions, eouldconlinc his .studies
to one object, or check his insatiable thirst for jriiural information.
In this manner he w;.s educated until 17:21, when, on his father's death, he was re
moved to die nublic school at Hern. He u.is placed in a class far above his a,s.;c . and
usually wrote in Cireek the exercise wliich he was expected to compose in tlie I,uin
tongue. In 172.3 he (jbtained permission to accompany a vounj^ friend to IVk nne, in
order to be instructed in philosophy by the llthcr of his companion, who was a cele-
brated physician. But liis new preceptor bein-^^ a bigot to the Cartesian school, Haller
soon rejected with disdain that logic and philosophy, which tended to cramp his genius
rather than extend his knowledge, and continued to culti\ate historv, poetry, and
polite literature, but with as little order and meth(xl as might be expected from his
years.
Haller, during his residence at Bienne, began a custom which he afterwards followed
through life, that of writing his opinion of the books which he perused, and making
large extracts fromthem. His genius being also awakened by the romantic scenery erf
the country to poetical enthusiasm, he composed various pieces in the epic, dramatic,
and lyric styles. He wa- at this time so entirely absorbed in this favourite studv, that,
a fire breaking out in the . ouse in which he resided, he rushed into his apartment, and
rescued his poetry, leaving his other papers, with little regret, to the flames. When
a more mature age had ripened his judgment, he was fre(iuentlv heard to say, tliat he
had preserved from the fiames those compositions which he then'thought the finest pro-
ductions of human genius, in order at a future jKriod to consign thein to destruction as
unworthy of his pen.*
In this period of life, Haller compares 1/imself to a wild plant, which is left to grow
without pruning : yet this very circumstance was probably the principal cause of his
future proficiency, and the foundation of that universal knowledge, which he afterwards
acquired.
He was originally intended for the law ; but his active mind could not submit to fol-
low a proicssion which w ould limit his inciuiries ; which entirelv depended on precedent
aiid audionty ; and which, to use his own quotation from Horace, in a letter to his friend
Bonnet, obliged him,
Jiirai'c in m il),i iiuii^isni.
And although !ie could not submit to the shackles of that narrow philosophy, so strong-
Iv recommended and enforced by his new pivccpt(;r, vet he appears to have been pri'n
cipally determined by his advice to deocate himself to'nhysic ; the study of which cow..
prchends sucna varietj of literary pn/suits as seemed congenial to the zeal and aciiviu
* Many ofhis IjiogvapluMs liavi.' conroimdcd ihosr iwo lacls ; ami, iVom a raliiral pmiR'niss u, ix
asftmUion, luive ussc'm:(i,tluit al liici.iH:, I l..ilLT, wiili u ;;i-< aUics,, 1 niiiul al.(.\ c hi:, years, bunu-.i lii-
p(jcticul c()iiij)()silions, Iroiu a stronp; coiniclioii tlial piuuv ttiiu.,! u, aliiii„U: his iiliiiil iVoni ihc ■,.■
vcrcr stiidits: \\lK'r<.'as, t!u' \c!y ((>i.l-'aiy bapp('ii.(L Dcsav. d Ids p-uiic al piccv, in pi.'l.'ivnc.' i,.
hisotiici- papers, and biinud them atUM'waids, bccaiisi' tl.cv woidd have disgraced Ids n puuaion • d-
tilOll^•llas juvciiili- pi'odii. lions, they wci'fri.ji. wh.dlv ^ilhi.nt nitrii. 1 lu\i in Ihis i.isi.uic |,iii\ti--
t:d tiic auihoiily of lus p.vriiculat' tiitnds, IJalUiasar and Tsiaariui', u> ius ot!u r bii
iioi siicli opportuni'.it s ot (>ht.,iiiin:j; iht ti iitli. Iksid
)i;-raiiin.is, w.'io \;::i,
.- . ., t'^Hlc'S, as a(uidijni.iii(;ii 01 UiL-ircvidi'inf, li ,dt, I'u'J
not inu rn'U ins poetical suuiu s ; and wrott- al Tubin;,'eii his M(ji'i.,f.n-;;;(!aii!.en and Seli:;-Sut I
arc tlu- earliest ^p(.^inl( ns he « ve;- i;:;vc to ihe jjubiic.
VOL. V. r< i:
lit, wiij.
y-'o
c'CvE o r:i.\\:. i..i in :;\vi i /lu;, an ;-,
nf liis cij.ncioiH iniiui lie no sooiur foniicd iliis risoUitinn, than \w adt^ptcil u iviort-
vt'i'-ular I'.vni imifdnu \>Vm. tlii.ii lie liacl liiiluiift bnu able to pursiK : lie n.-niowil
tr.^\;ir(ls ilir (.nd of 172.), to the univtr>>ity df 'riihinti;'.!!, where ho proseciitcil hi<
stnclies. uiukr the prolVssors Camd-uriii^ a;id Dii \'eriioy, wiih that unwearied appli
cation which ue\( r lorsook him. From ( aim rarins he learned those ^oniui principles ol
rational philosopliy, which teaeh iis lirst to donht, ;ind afterwards to believe, and uliich
arc tf|ually rcmo. id Troin cudnliiy and scepticism. From the lectures of l)ii Wriun
hei ibibed Iiis fust taste for britany, and made so rapid a progress in the stud} of ana
t'lmy, that his master from several dissertations predicted his future proficiency. Not
w itiistandin}^- his stroni; and invariable attachment to these twcj bi- inches of natur.il hislo-
r\, h.e represents himself as studyiiif^, invitu mincrva, ai^ainst nature; anat(>'.iy thoiijj::h
he could not support olli iisive snulls, and botany thoutrh he was v Ntrcmely sliort-sii;hted.
\t Tubinj^en he also distinj^uished his knowledge in mini ralog} by refiitinj^ the error
of 'roiirnefort, in ascribin,t^ to f(jssils u vegetatinf^ power.
Durinsj; his continuance in that universil) , he gave an instance of controul over his
passions; udifiicult conquest for a young man of strong feelings and lively imagination.
A single deviation into excess, into which he was hiuried by the example ot some of
iiis fellow-pupils, so greatly aflccted a person like him, no less en mioured of virtue,
than susceptililc of ingenuous shame, that he instantly f )r:ned a resolution to abstain
from wine, and adopted a strictness of morals, which render-, highly probable the asser-
tion of Condorcet, his French tncoiriiast, that he was descended irom a family in which
piety might be said to be hereditary.
In 1725, Halkr repaired to Leydi.n, to which place he w;is drawn by the great re-
putation of Boerhaave. Merc he found a more ample field for the improvement of his
mind, and the display of his abilities. He became the favourite scholar of Boerhaavc,
by whose example and encouragement he strengthened his grow ing inclination for bo-
tany. He noted down his master's lectures on the Institutes of Medicine with such pre-
cision, as afterwards gave birth to one of his most useful puljlications. He continued
his anatomical studies under Albinus, then rising into fatne, and the venerable Kujsch,
who so highly in-.provcd the art of injecting anatomical preparations. The precarious
state of his hculth, probably occasioned or at least increased by his intense application,
induced him to accompany two of his countrymen through part of Germany. On
his return in 1726, he received his doctor's degree, though only in the nineteenth
year of his age, and published on that occasion his inaugural dissertation de Ductusali-
vali Coscliwiziano.
In 1727 he visited England, was favourably received by Chcselden, Douglas, and
Sir Hans Sloane ; and improved his knowledge of medicine and surgery under the au-
spices of those celebrated men. At Paris, whither he next directed his course, he studi-
ed botany under GeoiVroy and Jussieu ; anatomy under Le D-un and VVinslow, a cele-
brated surgeon. Winslow was indeed his favourite master, whom he proposed to his
disciples as the best model for their imitation, as an anatomist, who, shackled by no
system, described simply and faithfully what he himself observed in his dissections.
Haller proposed to continue his travels to Italy, that country were medicinal know-
ledge first revived in the darker ages, and where,
" Sniil with llic love of sucn-d song,"
he might indulge his enthusiasm and iniprove his taste in classical literature ; but the
uncertain state of his health, the maladie i\u pays which so remarkably affects the Swiss
in foreign parts, a' i on which he has composed a poem, together with the advice
AND IS' llfF. rol'NIII'i' or I II L ';i! f.lONS.
.s:)9
and
uf his fikncis, prevailed over Iiis inclination, and induced him to rcUirii lo Iii-, r,ati\c
city.
In his way to Hern he stopim! at IJasIe, in order to slndy nr.tlhrnialies undc r the ec
Icbrated Jt)hn Bernoulli ; and in this, as well as in every other insiinee f)i' hi-, lih, applied
whh such indelatiijahle perseverance, as if that scieiue was the sole ohj.ei of his Intnre
researches. His proficiency in these studies is suHieiently proved hy si vi ral tnaii.,e-i
still extant in nianuscript on arithmetic and (>;eometry, and jjarticularly by his rcm.rUi.
on the marfjuis de I'HosijitaPs Analysis ol'Iniliiitcsinuds, and his attachment to them in
iiis heini^ deeply emjiloAed in a profound calculation on the day of his marriage.
But thout^h he made su(-h a progress as astonished Bernoulli hims( If, he cominued
his other pursuits, being api)omted to read lectures on anatomy during tlic sickness ol"
ill'-" P»'()lcssor. While he lullilkd the duties of that otlice, he also attended the lectures
of Tzinger on die practical parts of medicine ; thus at the same time displa\ ing, with
e(]ual propriety, the dignity of a jjrofcssor, and the humility of a pupil.
During the suimnerof 1721), he accompanied his IricndJohn Gesner into the moun
tains of Switzerland; an excursion rendered memorable by its suggesting to him the
plan of a Flora Helvetica, and by inspiring his poem on the Alps, which Ik comjjo.^ed in
the^ twenty. first year of his age ; a poem as sublime and iuuuortal as the mountain^
which arc the subject of his song.
Not long after his poem on the Ali)s, he wrote his ethic episdes, on the Imperfection
ofHuman N'iitue, on 8u|)erstition and Infidelity, on the Origin of Kvil, on the Vanity
of Honour, Various Satires, Doris, a Pastoral on his first wiVe, and his much admired
Klegy on her death, it is a convincing proof of Ilaller's versaiile genius and mental
powers, that he so eminently excelled in poetry, which, excejit in his carlv youth, he
never considered otherwise than as an an;nsement, either to soothe him under aflliciions,
and in the bed of sickness, or to console him for the envy and neglect of his contempo-
raries.
The soundest German critics \ ' cc Haller among die most eminent of dieir poets;
and consider sublimity as the grand ■ haracteristir of his writings, '! iicv acknowledge,
that he improved the harmon}- and richness of his native tongue ; th;it he possessed the
highest powers of invention, and grt at origiu.ihty both in his ideas arid language ; tliat he
is the true colourist of nature; that he sounded he depths of metaphysical and moral
science; that he equally excelled in picturescpic d.scripiions, in .,ofi and delight t'ul
imagery, in elevated sentiments, and philosophical precision, A , w supercilious iaitics
have reproached his poetry with occasional o!)s(urities ; and accuse him of introducin;--
a new language affectedly difli ring from the common n. ides o! diction. Cold criticism
may censure; but twenty-two successive editions of his (ierinan poems, and the trans-
lation of them into the principal languages (jf Kuropc, pro\e, that they possess the great
aim of poetry, that oi pleasing and interesting the readu- viid it 'may be remarked
with truth, that although Haller's stupendous labours in i .ition and science render his
poetical talents of inferior account; yet had he confined himself to the muses, poetrv
alone would have immortalized his name.
It is time to accompany Haller to h=s native city, where he leturned, in 1729, expect-
ing from his countr) men the same respect and patronage, he had so liberally received
abroad. But he had the mortification to experience diat'neglect and envy to which everv
man of genius is exposed in his own country, and which lie seep:s to have augmented
by his satirical compositions.
Hcconlinned three years without having the interest to procure any public employ,
mem ; though he prevailed on government to establish an aiuitomicul theatre, and <>avc
.1 R 2
.;,/• -fVvL'.-. li'.AVl.I.; IN .U ITZF.rLANO,
Uvtii;- s Trail- ; \oi lir (iici not sncn^d in ol)t:iimi^}j: the place of plu'sician to tlic Ik.sj).
I'll, wWvh Ik nil' !i il> siiul. \h ..Iv. v^iciK tl i> prolcsvnsirn), ;uul was rcpnlMd. lie
TOO sensibly Itlttli. setlisapiuuhMiunts, ;,n(l cvimssrcl Lis imiKiticncc and .ndi.u;n:.li(mii.
Lis satirical pt- ins, -Aiiik' Ul ralnubkcl l.i^ iipplicailon and .s'.tvkxs m order to lurco
Iiiinst ir into |/Mlili" iiotici. .,, • i • r
Thr liiM ilis'Mii'.iiblud tribute to his litnmrv taknts uas paid by the royal society ol
Upsila, ul>ieh, in"l7.-i.S, (hosr him a nun.bcr. Tiiis ileelion was llie prekide t.. more
houourabk' and bun lie ial i mpk.x ments ; in the same year his countrymen a kiii>tk
arkncnvkdLad his nuiit, l)V appoiniin;,' him director of an hospital and pubic librarian.
\s director, he di.tiiimiishVd himscUbv his zeal and humanity ; as librarian he bestowed
^mat pains in anan-ini,^ the books, and in lorminir the first eataloi-ue. Scorcciv an\
'bianrh oi liitratn-.v, howc \>r remote I'mm his usual occupations, was omitted by Hulkr,
whenever an opporiimitv jnes* nled itsell. eiihcr of improvinir his general knowledge, oi
olbcin,^ uselul K. science. Kindinir in the public library a collection of ancient medals,
uiiichl'uul Ikh n hiil-.ulo nei-kcicd, he to.)k considerable pleasure m classinijjtlKni. His
love ol history induced him to pay great attention to the study ol medals, which ht
justly con^idcVed as the most authentic documents olhistorical truth, and the mostccr-
lain monuments to ascertain the ever-Huctuatint; state of language.
His library reputation began now to spread bv various botanical, anatomical and
medical pubiieations, and by a colleclion of poems,* which first made its appearance
in 17.32. I ■ I- u '
At length, in 1736, he received, unsolicited, the ofler of the professorship ol physic,
botanv, and surgery, in U\c university of CVottiugen, newly established bj C.corge the
Secon'd. Notwithstanding all the advantages and honours whicli aceomi).(ued this
offer, he, for some time, hesitated whether he should ace« pt it. He had, m 1731, es-
poused a J f>ung lady of good family, vx hose great beauty and accomplishments wc re ren-
dered still mori' endearing bv lur anectionate subservience to his maniu r ot hie. Mic
had brought him three children, and these tics attached him more strongly to his native
place where his merits procured him many sincere friends, and the air ol which he con-
sidered as in some respect necessary for the preservation of his health. On the odier
iiand, the honour of being invited bv so great a n\onarch, the dignity of the estabhsli-
ment to which he was called, and the consideration of having a more ample theatre loi
the improvement of his knowledge, induced him to remove to Gottingen.
He (luitted Bern with much regret ; presaging the he.ivy stroke which overtook hini
soon after h:'s arrival in that university; he lost his wite. The death ol his beloved
Mari.mne, wliosc memory helms celebrated in a pathetic elegy, afflicted him so deeply,
that it almost brought him to the grave. In this crisis of despondency lie redoubled his
application, as Uie'most probable means of subduing his sorrow, and the duties of his
station forced him from the contemplation of his own grief into pu!)lic lile.
During seventeen years, in which he resided at Gottingeu, vviure his abilities expand-
ed in proportion as his opi)ortunities of accpiiring knowledge increased ; he obtained
from government the establishment of a botaiv-al garden, which he superintended; oi
an anatomical theatre, a school for midwifery, and a eolkge for the i iprovementot sur-
gery. He formed the plan Ibr a ro) al society of sciences, of which he was appointed
perpetual president. , . , , ■
The comprehensive mind and versatile genius of Haller, united with his unremitting
diligence and ardour in all his pursuits, enabled him to cultivate with uncommoi^ ac-
cess a variety of knowledge. Had not the great Swede prc-occupied the field, 1 uier
• Vtrsuth Schwtiucrisch'T Gedichtc The best edUion is printed iilBcrn, 1775.
\Nij IV THE rorvri;\ or h/e riRisoNs.
SCA
II.' lldSpi-
(1. Ilr
liitioii ii.
to ibrci'
)cifty ol
to inoa
li iii^tli
ihrariiiii.
itstowici
clIv iun
y IluUcr,
lc(l.u,r, Ol
iiKclals.
ini. His
vliicli lit
nost ccr-
lical anil
pcaraiice
r physic,
:()riz;c the
\k(\ this
1731, Cb-
iwrc rcn-
fc. She
lis native
I hf coii-
thc other
.stablish
lieairc Ibi
:ook him
j bchjvcd
io deeply,
lubled his
ics of his
icxpand-
obiaiiied
nded ; ol
lit of bur-
Lippointcd
ircmi'tini^
inor He-
ld, r.iiicr
would have st'jod the first anmnpjf his cont( niponrles as an improver of botany. * Vtt
botany was not anioi);^ his I'arliest pursuits: for h" iiirorins iis,tiiat he had made no ad-
vances in it nn'il his return from his travels; duri'i.i, Jiis residenee at Basle, in the year
1728, as il'inspired, he says, by the genius (jf that plaee, whieh had nuruired the Haii-
hins, and nliereat diat ptriod botany was suecessfully cultivated by Staehlin, he laid the
design of his lu'iire I'lora. I'rom this time he made annual journeys intf) various |)arts
of Switzerland, and principall} among the Alps. He cultivated the correspondence ol
the most eminent botanists, particularly with Seheutzer, Ludwig, Linniuus, Van Royen,
and Dr. John (iesner of Zuric, who also meditated a design to pu!)lish a Swiss Flora.
and freely communicated his materials to Haller.
His establishment at Gottingen enlarged his views and opportunities; and at length,
in 1742, his great botanical work on the plants of Sv\ iizerland, the result of fourteeii
years study, made its appearance. It was entitled, Knumeratio Methodica Stirpiuin
Helvetia;, in two volumes, folio, and was the most copious Flora ever published, com-
prising 1«40 species. The preface contains a compendious description of Swit'/rerlaiid,
particularly the Alps; on accoimt of the authr)rs who had written on the Swiss jilants ;
the recital of his own journej s ; acknowledgn.vi ts to those who hud assisted him ; con-
eluding with the order and method which he pursued.
After the preface follows a chronological accoimt of 268 volumes, cited in the work,
each accompanied by a general character ; in which, with great candour and impa .tiality,
he points out the merit or demerit of the author, in the manner which he afterwaids pur-
sued in the Methodus Studii Medici, and in the Bibliotheca Mediciufc. This is a very
useful and entertaining part of his work, as it forms almost a history of the progress ol
the science from the time of Brunfelsius to his own. He next delineates his own system
of botany, according to which the plants are disposed. Throughout this great work
Haller is entirely an original, not satisfying himself with giving the descriptions of for-
mer writers, he appears every where to have described the plant himself, and to have
formed new genera, and commonly new specifical characters for the whole, accommodat-
ed to his own system. He acquaints us, that it was his custom to write down die natu-
tural characters of each plant on the day he discovered it.
In treating on each species he has not only added a most copious number of syno-
nymcs, but appears to have consulted all the old authors, extracted their synonymes
with uncommon diligence and singular discrimination, and arranged them, as much as
possible, in chronological order; a method highly worthy of imitation, as it exhibits, at
one view, a brief history of the plant, by pointing out the first discoverer, and the re-
gions of its growth. This, to the curious botanist, is a very meritorious part of Haller's
labour. To each plant is subjoined a summary account, from the best writers, of the
qualities and uses, both economics! and medical. Tli. work is embellished with plates
of some rare species, rema»-t:,>ble for their exactness and delicacy.
Having, in 1741, obtained fiom the king of Great Britain the establishment of the
physic garden at Gottingen, Haller published the following year a catalogue of its
plants ; this was but a small volume, but the list served to shew the diligence with which
he fulfilled the intention of the royal founder. In l7Cy3 he much enlarged it, and com-
preliended the plants spontaneously growing in the environs, especially those of the
Black Forest. He informs us, that this volume was the production of a three months'
vacation, and laments, that the importance of his other em|)loyments prevented hiir.
• I shouUl not huvc presumed to give any dctallccl accourit (-f II;illt;r's l)ouinicc'.l, medical, or uniito.
micul works, had 1 not received ussistaiice on these subjects froii, my very judicious friend Dr. Pu!t
ney.
HGJ
loxb". TiiAVEi.s i.v suii/,i;nr, AM),
from riilfilliii};' Ills ■mttniion (.f lUscril/mj; the phnts of GLrmaiiy at large. This littlf
work is riiiiMus, siiu;( it CAtnipliliis Ins systiin as cMciuKd to exotics, of which the
lieu and mn kiiulsaiv described ; hut the small si>:e ol' the volume precluded the intro-
duction nl' the f;eiurical characters.
Ill 1 71.1, he gntilied the l)f)tauists hy a new edition of tlu Flora .lenensi.s orRupjmis,
and, that he nti^ht i\u jiistiei to the work, he took a journey to Jena, where lie gained
access to thi' papers and hortus siccus of tlie an'.lnr. lie pru''iAed to this hook ancc-
dotes of this <. xtraordiniry man, and, by reforming and augmenting the whole from his
own di'^'^ovtries, he m soinc measure made it a I'lora Clermatrh'a. These performances
\\\w l)\ no ii.w.nsthe termination of his l)oi.iiiie.il 1 ihours. On his return to Switzer-
l.ii.d he coiitiiHied his diseovuies in thi-. firanch of n unral histo.y ; he also sent, at his
o-.\ n ( xjiriice, per or.s prcfpcily .'luaiifitil into ihe less IVctpienul p.rts f)f the Alps.
The n suit ai-.pi.:ire(l in a lu n- ( tiition ol tht l*'.nuinen!tio, w uieh was so much improv-
ed, thai he considir^ it as a ikw work. 1: was puhli'iicl in liirte volumes, folio, in
17().'S, under the title ( f Hisioiia Sirpium indigenaium Ileiverue, iiv^hoata. The suh
jiei is.;n\!n.m(l in liis own ir.ei!)' d. w I'h the alter.uion of in\i iiingth' ^'rcier of the classes,
ht-iiiniiii; with the ('r)ni|)osi!;c, n die Syiigenesi.i class oi' Liiniieas, .ind e'l.hiig with
liu" ('r\ plo};,amia, \\ liich stocjil fii>.i in llie l'',nume ratio ; holh of u liieli uH; oDJectionahle,
as sul)jectiiig the student to tin -n'st dillicuk parts of thesysn in at hisenhaiice on the
stuclv. Seural interesiiiig parlieulars of the iormer public. ition are a'-^o oni'.'f d in
these volnnies, of which curious IxU.inists will mn/h regiet the loss; )'oi , liiough he
has inserted, with enlar.m nu iit, the ph}sicil geography of SwitzerLnd, togeilvr with
llu account oi' those authors who had previousl;. irivesiiiiter' Mic pfuits o'* the eouutrv,
and has recited his own excursions for that purt'.-,e ; \ et he l5;;s not inlroduc.d the cri-
tical catalogue (jf the authors, satisfying himseil '.\ idi f'iving a bare list ol all the botanical
writings, from the time of Tiicophrasiiis to 17<)H. It is ^.\\\\ more to be regretted that
llalkr has suppressed in this edition a great ntimber oi synonymes under each plant,
insetting only a llw oi later date ; lor although, in all possible instMices he has intro-
duced the svnonymes of Liniucus, yet he has unforiutiaiely ibrsuchas use the works of
l)odi, omitted thetri\ial namtsiu circumstance which niidtrs his hook much less use-
ful to those who are conversant in the sexual system. Yet diese delects are doubtless
more than compensated, by the innumerable improvements uK\de in the descriptions,
hoth of the genera and spi cies, by the great addition to the number of i)lants, which are
extended from 1840 to 2'18t'), of' which more than 800 are of the Cryi)togamia class;
Mailer having, after Micheli, Ix^ond any of his contemporaries, enlarged the order of
Fiiinn, of which, he tells us, he liad paintings of more than 400 species made under his
owirinsptciion. It is not, howe\er, surpri'/ing that Switzerland should produce a
"■rcater varietv ofvegetabks than the middle parts of Europe ; when we rcHect that the
Alpine situations aH'ord growth to the plants of the arctic regions, and the warm vallies,
to many of those common to soiiihern. The value of this edition is much enh.niced
by enlarging the observatii^is on the uses of plants ; and by reierring to his atithorities
for what is not his own, with his accustomed accuraej'. As an accession to this work,
it ma> be added, that the author has in the notes, under each genus, introduced the
plants of Thcophrastus and Dioscorides, in as many instances as they admit of being
ascertained.
Few botanists have laboured more than Hallcr, and yet his discoveries in botany oc-
cupied only a comparatively small portion of his time. To such as feel not, in die fullest
extent, that enthusiasm which the love of science inspires, it may appear a paradox to
assert that the dissection of human bodies could be a pleasurable employment ; yet Hal-
■\ N i> I \ 1 II i. ^ (iV \ I I! i <> I J 11 r. (, ;( I 3 I, «; „.
r,r,:,
his littif
liich tin-
ic intro-
^upj)ius,
c (gained
)k aiK'c-
Iroin his
(rniunccs
Suitjccr-
U, at his
Ips.
iinprov-
lolio, ill
rhc suli
c cLisscs,
liii':^ with
tioivible,
re on the
ii'''t' (1 ill
:OUL;ll he
.!v r with
coiiiitrv,
\ the cri-
b()t;\iiii;al
:ttcd that
ich plant,
iias intro-
works of
less usc-
clou!)tlc.ss
criptions,
IV h ich are
lia class ;
■ oukv of
under his
produce a
;t that the
01 rallies,
cnh.inced
uthoritics
his work,
luccd the
; of being
otany oc-
ih'j rullci;t
Ltradox to
; \'Ct Hul-
icr, ill ir)2, proiioimci (1 ;i s-)iii(id fiil..,i,;Tiiii, in ilie imiversitv of (ioMiiifr. n, ,,n the
subject, and his ^.eal in tlf [nirv.iit of anatoniicil <lis"f)\ . rivs ua-,' itn ndi d u ith 'inrum.
moil success. Ik' seinis t ir|\ to have aiipreiimdi d, that the knowli d^r,; of die di-,ii ibu
tion of the arteriJ s_\strni !m(I not kept p.icc uith iliat of ihr bones^ muscles, ii-rw'^
and viscera, which hid l.( ( n su;:ir,;Ul\ and a!,ly treatul bv men of (miiKiice. ' llilld-'.
therefor.', \\i-,l„d to illnstrate more iniiectly tli'is j.art of the luiman Iraiui', and '-ave t'-!
the world a more compU te s_\ stem on tlu siii)ji it than h id vet api)earul. He i)ii'blis!ie(l
the hrst part of this gaat work in 17-I.3, and the last in IT.wi. Ills tracts on otli. r parts
ol anatomy, when collected in 17(1«, f(a-nu(l three \olnnu's in (luarto. 'l"he curious
reader may sie an eimmeiation o| his man_\ diseo\criis inanatoiin and pin ■.irjlof-v, at th;-
head o( the sixth V(;hmu' of his l'hysio!o;;y : althou-h some of tlu m. divov" rj. s ni ,y have
been contested by his coi,triii|»,rari(.s, yet his unalienable ri_Ldit to most of ihen'i, and
the light particularly uhidi iiethn wupon incubation, (jssilicaVioii, iiratability, and sevc
ral other parts of the animd (co;i(au_\, will unijuestionabh secure to him 'a' laive and
honourable share of fune with i)0'/iritv. " ''"'
Haller'semolumd.ts aii-nunud ashis merits wire displaved ; and honours (lowed
upon lum irom all rpi .iters. He was elected in 1718 into the Roval SociLtv of Stock
holm, mtolhat ol London in 174<J, and in 1754 chosen one of the el.^dit foreimi mem
hers m the Academy of S( ienees at Paris. In 173!; he was appointed r.hvsician t(.
Oeorge the Second, and kii.-'s counsellor in 1740. In 174!) the cmperol- Krancis
conferred on him letters of lujbility at die request of George the Second, and about the
same time the kmg, m a visit which lie paid to the university, distinguished Halkr with
particular marks of a])probation ; a^i honour which the author gratefully acknowledms
in an hnglish publication, entitled, "A short Narrative of the king's journev to (iot-
tingcn,'' and in the dedication to George the Second, prefixed to 'his edition' of lioer.
haave's Methodus Studii IMcdici.
lie declined, in 1745, an invitation to Oxford, which would probablv have terminated
mm nomination to the professorship of botany, vacant bv the death' of the celelirated
Di llenuis ; a second liom th.e university of Utrecht, and, in' 1750, a third from the kin-
ol 1 russia, w nh the oiler of a very coasiderable pension.
But of all his promotions none gave him more real satisfaction dian his election into
tfie great council ol Ijcm, as it msurid to him a retreat with digi itv, and i)robablv
with emolument, m his native city, to u Inch he looked forward with\u.ection and attach"-
ment.
At length, in 175.3, induced by the precarious state of his health, i)v the desire of
removing Irom Goltingu,, which he called the grave of his wives, and'bv his earnest
anxiety to dedicate the remainder of his days to the sers ice of his counirV he took u
journey to liern, m oreler to procure an establishment, w hieh, though uui adeouate to
Ins present appointments, mi.^ht place him in the bosom of his beloved 8wit'ierlai('
boon after his arrival, he fbrtunately obtained by lot the ..Dice of Amman. AlthouPli
this otiiee was of small emolument, yet, as it might be considered a prelude to futi'rrc
appointments, ano ga\e him an immediate oppc.rtuniiv of servin-^ his children, he re-
signed his professorship at Gotlingen, and settled a't Bt rn. Such was the general
joy of his counirvmen on this event, that ISlorikosot struck a medal to commemorate
'113 IV'il.ll [la
Having f'^rmed this rcsr.lution, he could not be shaken bv die most splendid offers.
He declined in 1 ,o5, the pressing invitation of T.'-ederic the "Second, to superintend the
hvl'"''r/i VTv""A""^ '"''^''^'\' the chancellorship of the universitv of Hall, vacant
by the deudi of W oiff. In 17G7, lie rejected the offer of a very advantageous Lnd ho
HC>1
OSE'.'. in\VFI3 IN 5VVI i:'.r,ULA NP,
noiiial)lf vuKinciit at St. lVtcrsl)urf;h, luiulc by Catharine the- Scfontl. aiul, in 1 * hi,
the Mill more diK'nilUd promotion to ihi- chance llorship ol the nnivmuy ol (lotini^ren,
\vitha\crx cousuUrablcapi.ointnunt; although (l.or}^r thi; Tlurd urutc not only to
Ilallirhntio the ,uiaU ol Hern, rcqiu stin^,' their inlUicncc to prevail on him to accqn
His ri.it( fill cniintrv icwanli il this di.iiitcrcMal aitadnnent with the most liberal and
ni.Ijouiidcl cniilideiitV, and euiploved his taints in die public service. In 1757, he
was sent to lerorm the ncadenjv oi' I/n.isannc, and in the lollow in^r year was dc|viicd
l.\ th. senate to l snnine s.)n»e curious remains of anti(|nitv discovered at Culm
Mx.ut the s:ime tinu \u was appnjnfed director of the sa.t works at Ik x and Ai),dc,
w iih ui annual sal;,rv ol" /T.OO. Durini; the term ol" this appointment, which continued
sis \ears he resided at La Koche. In d.is rttiivnunt, he employed himself m super
intci.dinK and improvin- th.' silt-works, of which he has iriven u short account ; iii
ni.kiim- orci.sional t Acursi.ns -nto the Mci;:hbourin.^• coun;i\, which he has hkt wise
described ; but more particularly distin^nii.shed his retreat by preparing and publishing
hisjvreat work on phvsiolojxy. • i i
Notwithstandim^Mhe amplitude and success of I laller's labours in Uic various branches
of medical knowledt^e, it was principallv on physiolofry, which seems to have been his
peculiar deli.^ht, that he displayed the whole force of his {genius, and lounded his merit as
an inveiuor in science. , ■• ■ ■ /^ ..•
His outlines of Tlivsiologv, or Primar Lineiv Physiolop;icic, published at Cjottingeiim
1717 deliiv ate the 'plan, and were the prelude to his immortal work, which he mo«
destiv styles Kleinents onlv, or Klementa Pysioloiriic Corporis Humani, in eight voliinu-s
in (lu'arlo, which suecessivelv made dieir appearance Irom 1737 to 1700. In conlormitv
to lio.rhaavc's plan, this part of the science ol" pin sic is emancipated Irom theoretical
^ul)tletv, IVorn the shackles ol nutapin sical, mechanical, and chemical hypodieses, with
which,' for ages, it had bein incumbered, and, lor the first time, built on the true basis
of anatomical science. ... , r i
The ex.iuisite knowledge which he has disi)laved in relation to die structure ol the
human bodv his indcilitigable researches into tjie discoveries and opinions ol all his
r.redecessors,'tlu judicious^ selection »)f diem to establish his own, his skill m comparative
anatomv, and the application of the whole to illustrate the human Irame, attord a
striking instance of learning, industry, penetration and genius. , r y r^
On 'his return to Bern he was elected member of the chamber of appeal for the Uer-
man district of the councilor finances, of the (ommiitees for matrimonial attairs, and lor
. improving tlie small livings in tlie French district of die canton ; he was also ai)poinled
neriHtual assessor of the'oouncil of Health, with an annual salary ol about / 100 as u
token of his country's gratitude for having declined so many splendid otters Irom loreign
courts, and for preferring his native place to die advancement of his lortune. In these
several otfices he performed essential services to die state by i^romoting the most useiul
iubiitutions, prop(jsing necessarv alterations, and framing new laws and ordinances, in
his eapacilv of assessor to the clumber of Health, he was particularly useiul in lorwaid-
in,"- the m-^st import.',, it ivgulations ; such as die prohibition of empirics, the recovery
of^lrowned persons, and the means to prevent the spreading of the distemper dien pre-
valent among the eatlie iii ^ .c.ions parts of Kurope.
He also si'iewed himself a Iricnd to humanity, by tlie zeal with which he assisted in
obtainms' from govcrnm nt a i:u!;lic establishment for orphans, by his activity in provid-
iui'- a fund, and'bv iU;u\ -, - up t!ie plan. As a member of the Kconoinieal Society, he
laboured much to improve the slutc of agriculture, and made many expeiiments lor
W'i) I\ I hi: tOL'N(i:'. o; III I (,;, l.i'.s,,
>]tli
in I77ii,
>uini;cii,
only to
0 accept
jcnil and
,757, lie
dcp-ilcd
it C'ulni
d Aii^lc,
ontiiiurd
in super
ount ; ill
liki w isi*
ihlishin^
l)raiu-lics
l)c'< II his
s merit as
tlinjijen in
\\ Ik' mo~
t voiunu's
jiilbrmity
heorctical
Lscs, with
true basis
urc of the
of all his
mparative
, afford a
r the Ger-
s, and for
a])j)oinled
/;iOO as a
m\ foreign
In these
lost useinl
mces. In
n forward -
L' recovery
¥
• then pre-
assisted in
in provid-
(Kitty, he
iments for
that jjiirpos'?. In the nn itiiiLjs of the !,Te it r'nineil hediTmrii!, on inipdrtant n^riM
sioiis, his opinion with a manly friedDin and li\i ly ( ii jUt lu e, ihf icsiilt of thi- souii'lis^
jiiflgnvnt and ihi- tiioit leelin^' heart.
In 17G'> and the f';MM\vin!^ \earslliis ^I'leat man, who hid hith.rii tnlijhtined scioiic
from his i i"set, di'^pliwd in the thi itu oi pnlih'j lilc tlu' iiinre ;icMvr ;iii(| disMii.'jniihed
partsof a p iiriot and politieian. He reLs'..i|)|i,||i d iIk haiiiKiny aiidsittlid ilu'dispntc
Ijetwcen the N'allais and the canton (jI Hern by a siuii-^sUil ne;^otiatioii. in ulnt;h hi'
fixed the !)oiindaries of iho two stiles; lu- was associaftti with the most enlightened
char,i("ter> ';f the n ptil.'lic in lermlnatiti!; the (li><M.iUiii!is o| (itii(\a; he (h'ew np tlv*
principal dispatehes to llf court of X'ersailKs on thesul)ject ol' thi; eiiaii;.',es prfjected a'
\'ersoi, on whiJi ooca^ion he held a personal (-onfi ri.nce wiiht'u; Fn nch ambassi
dor, and was cinpiojcd to prepare thi' plan of a treaty between the eanton of Ikrn and
the eleet( r f>f Uavaria, rtlatiugto the |)iir( ha.se of salt.
On the conclusion of these pulilic em|)l()\ ments Ilaller, who hatl now attaiiu-d tht
sixty second year of his age, withdrew Iroin the bustle of life, and lived in a retired
manner, fulfilling the duties of a farther, a eiiixen, and a magistrate ; and, although \\i^
health gradually di (lined, yet his activitv was undimini-^hed, lie reMinn d his literary
labours, which had been necessarily intirrupted amidst his other more import int avoca
tions. He publislud, in 17<)S, his histor}- of Swiss plants ; and, in 1771, tUi' first parr
of his Hil TioiIk ca Mulicinai.
No pal I of Ilalk r's writings affords a more striking example of the value of earl\- and
persevering industry, than this publication. That habit which he formed so early as
the eightc eiith year of his age, of noting his opinion of books and authors, accinnulated
a considerabk mass f)f materials, and thus inal)l'd him afterwards to turn them to vcrv
useful purposes. By these means the foumlation ol' his Medii:il Library was laid, even
before he ga\e the improved edition ol' Doerhaavc's Methodus Studii Medici, in
1751.
liocrhaave used to recommend to his students the books whieh they ought to con-
sult on each subject; this eatalogne was, in 17:^(>, suireptitiously and inaccurately
printed, and Ibrmed only a smiU volume in octa\-o ; many necessary observations were
Ibrgotleii, and various authors b(jtli nuHUni and ancient omitted.. IlalKr undertook to
supply these deficiencies ; and ixtintled tlu- publication to iwovoiuMus in (|nirto. In
o»"der to appreciate the merits of his coinpiIatio:i, it is nece.-,-,ary to observe, that various
lexicons and catalo;ni( s (;l mcdieal aii'Jiors were extant ; but the writers had n.erels
giM'ii l)are li-^ls and titles, nnaecouipanicd by thai critical diiciimin itioii si' tin.' (.lesigu,
doctrine, and gemral mi rit ol each anllior, whieh rendered these volunii'-, so higlilv
acceptable. In this manner Haller has giNcn, niitlcr tliat elassical nu thod which iJoir
haa\e reconniieiided, his opinion of more than four thousand volumes.
In the- extension of this plan, as it appears in his own iiibliotlieea, II ilkr begins, Ity
tracing the hisiory of em h branch <;!' medicine i'loiu its ori.,^iii through ihi' j)ieeedii;g
ages, and, b_\' conneciinjj; the history of each in ili'- several [leri ids, has, in some m>' isiir.,
made his p'.ibiiearion a eoni[)endions liistorv of [)li\sie,.
His extensive knowledge ofaiieiiiit and modern langiia.ge'. enabled him to coinpre-
hend a large field ; his iiid^ latigaljle industi}-, united to great |)enetiMtion in in\( s'ii; ni.ig
the doctrines ol the anciinis, e(|iially e.shibits Ins erudition, and thai sound JiidgaKUL
b\' which lie has appreeiaud the merit of those sages of physic, in a manner higlilA in-
tiresliiig aiid i: slruclivc. In Ms jud!>c.ieiit of the moderns he is candid and imiiartial ;
his grci't kiK.wkilge ol his subjects (pialifn d him to di'.'.iiiguish all original r!i-cuiiu.s,
new I'acts and observalioi.s, and to guard again-t such errors a^^ niight mislead } oungaiu!
VOL. ^ . .i r.
.'f.U
A I. a 1 u Av M & i.N vW 1 1 ;» m v\»j,
iii(;tu'»''U . I-. .» iiiitirur>. who urc toonpt to be intlucnciil l>) iiuhilnil llK<irii.>, and j»rc-
Mi(l|(< lMU;iiil'. j>.irtiiiil.;r ;intlinrs.
il( lijtfiiviii iidditi'iiial valiu to his uotk, \>\ .tiitii xiiif;' tr) {he atH-onnl ul ('( lihratcd
! locks y\\(<n i)in^r:i|)hii:al :iii( cdotrs ol du author^. IK' tilt iitioiis all the dilKxiiU (di-
rioii> th:ii ranK to hi<> kiiouUd^'c, |iarti(:nlaiiy markiii^^ such as wire in his own lihr.iry.
\iii! it is :i in.itlct oi' astoiii^hnu nt that, in this id.hiik r. hi iiotii < s and rcvii us not kwi r
diaii I l.'icd xohiiucs. As thi liiiiaiy hi-.ion ol'phrsic was ainon^; ihi laNoiiriti- ol>
|i(tsoi llalltr, this imlihcatioi) ( mnot hiil he iii^lil} aceiptahle to such as possess a
';<in;;enial taste; \\\\\U thi ^.^eneral use and inl'orninion it aflords are snlVuiuuly oli-
\i(iis. I'.i};ht \uhinKs wire pnhlished htiwun tli'.' years 1771 and 177H. 'i'lir aiKi-
:onii '.il, Mu Indiiii:' thi physi<ili)",\ , the hotanio.il, and the chirnrj^ical, were tiich eoni.
priijid ni two vohiniis, and hrinp, down the respective stihjicts iieiirly to the present
UMK. 'I'uo, (.n thi '/rai'iid ol ph_\ sic, wire published by Ilalli r iiitnsc 11', a third after
his di( ease b\ l)i. 'l'iii)olif, and ;• ionrth by Dr. Hr.indis of Childetislu ini, Ironi the
iiKiniiscript 'I Ihilkr, whiihthi learned editor has considerabl) auf^inented.
Ilalli I (lupl'iud the latter period e^^r his life in scndinj^ extracts I'roni cmini nt pnbli.
eatii ns lor the I5iMiothn|ue Kaisoniiie; I'lirnislud many ol'thc artiiKs lor the supplement
to the I'aris l,ni } clopedie, lor theipiarto in>pro\e(l edition of the same work publish «■'
at Yvcrdun, and lor the dictionary ol' natural history printed at the same place, t J
mulitatid also a new e(Utioi\ ol' his );rcat i^hysiolo^rical work, of which he put forUi the
first \nlume in 1777, only a few months bel'oie Ins death.
His active ima};ination broodiiijj; on the ci\il and political alVairs in which he had been
latelj engaged, produced betwei. n 1771 »ind 1774, his three political romances, Usong,
-\lfred, and Fabius and C'ato, which treat of the despotic, monarchical, and republican
.governments. In Usong- he sketi his, with a masterly hand, the abuses of absolute au-
rliority, and sets forth, in the ciiaractcr of the |)rincipal personage, the happy cflects
which may be derived frcim a virtuous and intelligent sovereign, even amidst the hor-
rors e)f oriental elesjwtism. In I'abius and Calo he describes, with an animation and
>pirit worthy of ancient Rome, but with a partiality natural te) a republican, the aristo-
craticalgo»ernnH!it as most friendly to the display ol i)atriotism, and most congenial to
the c^ertions of genius. In .\llred he displays the advantages of a limited monarchy,
wherein the balance of power is wisely distributed, and which, while it avoids the ex-
tremes of either, enjen s the beneftts of both. In these romances he discovers sound
principles of legislation, great political sagacity, a deep insight into human nature, and
,in extensive aeouaintarice with historv.
When we consider llallcr as a man of piety and a Christian, we observe him tracing,
i'rom a comprehe iisi\ e view of the creation in its grandest as well as in its minutest parts,
the necessary existence of a Supreme Iking, anel the great piinciples of natural religion.
We see him demonstrating the divine origin of Christianity Iron) a profound study of the
New TeslanRnt, from the excellence of its morality, its manifest inlluetice over the happi-
ness of mankind, and its tendency to meliorate; our nature ; we lind him proving himself,
both in his life and writings, a zealous friciul and able advocate oi the revealed doctrines.
Ilaller, at a very eaily period of his life., inideriof)k the defence of natural and re-
\ealed religion. In 17;32, in his preface to his poetry, lie declared himself firmly con-
^inced of their truth; in 1747 he rejectee] with horror the dedication whicn La Metric
offered to prefix to his work e.ntitleel "L'llomme Machine," and he declared in various
litcr.iry journals, that he neither acknowledged as his friend, or his disciple, a man who
entertaiueel such impious notions. In a preface which he published in 1751, to For-
niey's abridgment of Crouzza's "Kxamcndu Pyrrhonibine," he paints in the strongest
\Nl« IN i ML ioL'NlIM <)( I Ilk r, I! lUUN
■f»l/
.i/lo'irs, ilic ilriiidfiil ». fKcts of inlidc lity bdtlion society atu! individiiai^. l\v put lorili,
III die (•• rm;in toujour, " Ia lit r>> to his d.m^litt r tui the 'I'mtli of iht Chri »li.iii R>vt l.i-
tton ;" iKpublislitdaiuMracl Iroin Ditton's " 'riiulif)l iIh |{ ■.iirriclionof Jt ■.usC'lirJM,"
which lic .ickiunvlid^^i >, to huvf lir-.t tU.irul ;m\ (Iwul)!-! hi; i lift rtiiiiiul on di it siiliji if.
He avows, at the sanic linn-, that he rcciivid iiiliiiitc stati>»t;Kti«)n Irom the study ot du
Ncvv '!'« stamcnt, htt air.< he was never more eertain ol holthii;^ converse u itii the l)i.it\ ,
than \\\f li he read !ii^ will in iluit divine hocjk.
In 1773, he fnially ^'avc to the |)iil)iie, also in the (lerm.in lanj,nia{.'e, " I^ei'.ers i-oii
ccrnini; several late Attempts ol' Freethinkers \il hvin;j; :i;/iinst He\c!.«ti<,ii."' In thi-^
uork the aiidior ixainines and rclntes the (jl)jretious to (Jhiisii iuit\ , .idv.mcetl in sr.
lively and danj^erons a m.ainer l>y N'oltain in hi > (-iiKsiiDns sur I' l',n(\e!.ipidi( . •' If thi<
latter publication," adds Smnehiir, *' may he eonsideiid as an Index to th • Doulitr
and Ar,u;nments af^'ainsl the Christian lleli;;ion, the \v(jrk ol' Malh r may he entitled aii
Index to the answers in I'avonr of the same Hivelition, to he eonsidn d by thos'- wlir.
wish impartially to discuss both sides ol this important fpiestion. \\ In n N arninf^ and
philosophy, instead ol' beiiij^ employed in sn|)poilinj-- sceptical tenets by arilnl sophisti) ,
tlius lend their unitid assistance to the cause ol" reli}.non, tluy truly become an lionoii!
to the poss< ssor, and a benelil to society.
But even this great and goiul man was not exempt IVoin a tf)o anxious solitud'j loi
his well'are in a future Mate. That deprc ssion of spirits, w hich ought justly to be con
sideted as the clVccts of disease, and .he warmth of his imagination conspiring pcrhap-
with the narrow principles of Calvinisuj, itt which he had been educated, lediiim tore
fleet rather on the justice Uian the mercy of the Heity, and to bewilder himself in thi
endless mazes of predestination and graci'. In one of liis desponding fits, he compared
himself to a man placed on the edge of a precipice without any support, and expecting
every instant to fall. At another moment, animated with a passion for science, he
breaks out, hi u letter to his friend Bonnet, into an exclamation, expressive of his re-
gret to (juil a world which he had improved by his discoveries, and which he might still
further illuminate by his zeal and application. " () my poor brain, which must return
to dust; and all the knowledge and information which 1 have been collecting with such
unwearied labour, will fade away like the dream of an infant."
These little weaknesses of a great mind, overpowered by constitutional irritability,
and struggling against early prejudices, are more interesting to the man who feels and
respects the imperfections of human nature, than the most pompous and exaggeratid
accounts of unerring wisdom, or uniform virtue. And it is a pleasing satisfaction to
learn, that reason and religion rose superior to the gloomy des|)ondency of sickness ;
and that Miller met death with the calmness of a philosopher, and the faith of a Chris-
tian. In a letter which he wrote, a few days before his decease, he speaks indeed of
the tremendous grandeur of etc mil) , Uit with hope rather than with lear, and looks
back upon his past life with s:itisfaction : amidst a few complaints uttered on his painful
sufterings, he mentions his country with the most ardent alfection, and oilers up his lasl
praxer for its preservation and welfare.
He continued his literary labours, and preserved his senses and com|)osurc totlicmo
ment of dissolution; he beheld his end ap|)roaching without fear and regret; " Mv
friend," he said to the physician who attended him,' " I die, mv pulse i.s slopped," and
f
then expired. He deceased on the twelfth of December 1777, in the sevcnli.th year
of his age.
Thus lived, and thus died, the great Hallcr ; a man to whom Michaelis, the cini
nent orientalist, justly applies an observation on the genius of Aristoilc ; Nequcc.cln
5 r, '2
JOfe
I o\tV. iu.v»£ii IM »viT;'.i:nLAMi,
\u(\u> ti ru, iii i|iu' iii.ni (|iiii'(|ii.iii) riliii<|itc'rc voliiii inco^fiiituin, indole |)rKtrrw-u ailco
iitir.iliili, lit ft(t singula niiliini pr.ciipiK (liciH."*
Ill Ills luTM.ii Hjllir W.I', 1 .11 iiul ln.jv•^ti(^ of a ■»i'ri<)iis aiul ixprishi\c coimtcnant f
Ik'IikI .ii mills .III o|u II siiiiU, .iUv.i\ s a |>ii ;isiii|^ toiuol' M;ii'i', iimj illy low, aiulMMoiu
cUAiilid, cvtii u 111 II lie uMs most .i^iiittcl. Ili- wmm loiul of iiiibciuliii^; liiiuvll in so-
riiiy, r)ii tliov- or. asioiis w.is ninaikabls clucrliil, polite, and attcntivr ; he vvoulil
coiiMisi uitli tlu- l.idic'* on Irliioii^, m)(l«.s of <lriss, anil oilu;' irillc.i, witli as miicl»
lasiasiriu li.ul iu\t.r Mihidid liiiii'n M iiom llu* world.
UoiiiKt iuliuiiiKl nu , that ililUr wrote \\'iilu-(|iial iltcilitv tlu* (ftrmaii, rniuh, and
Latin lon^ius; tii.it he w.is.so will acijiKiiiiti'd with all ihc l'airo|)iMii laiii^iLi^i^, i xccpt
UiiNslaii, i'uliih, .iiid llnn_n (fi.in, as to spr.ik with tlir ii.itivis in tin ir rcspittivi- idioms.
Win 11 Ik (i)ii\irMd oii any topic ol liuiMtiui', his knowliil^fi' a|>pi..ir(d so ixtcnsi\c,
th.it III sii nu d to h i\r iikkU- tli.it his p.niicnl.ir study. His proltitind crndilion in iviry
l.>!aiu:li of M'ii lui, is w Jl kiinvMi to ;il! wlio.iiv convcrs.uit with his works; l)iit the
variity of his inlorni.ition, and tlic Mrs.itility ol his talcnls, art dins dilim.i.fd by u
pirsoiij who w.is his p.irti'.:u'.ir IViind. " Ho |)Osstssi.il a rund.iinini.d knowlcdf^t' ol'
natural hibtory ; w.is wcllrcid in history both aiicii lit and modern, iinivcrs.il and p.irti.
ciilar; and nntoinmonly \irsid in tlir slati of a;:,iiriillini', niaiuilaituris, tr.idc, popu-
lation, littiatnrf, and l.iiii^n.ij^is oi the ris|)tcti\t; ii.uioiis ol ]'".uro|)i.' ; hi.liidri.id with
attintion ilic most riiiiarkabh' voyages and travels; and w.is p.irticnl.irlj cvtiivirsaiit in
the lati discovtriis which tend to ilUistratc the ji;rogr;iphy of iht ^lob( . He h.id even
perused many thousand novels and plays ; and possessed sneli an astunibhin{^ ineinory,
that he c(Ji,'ld detail their eontents with the utmost precision."
As it was his custom to make extracts, and to give his opinion of every book which
CAVnc intohis li.iiids, as well lor his own private use, as lor the (joitiiifrin Review, j: he
read most new publications, and so ea^er was he usually in the perusal, that he laid
them upon the t.ible even when he was at dinner, oceasionally luokini^ into them, and
marking those parts with a pencil, which he afterwards extracted or commented upon.
He made his remarks on small pieces of paper, of diHerent sizes, wliich he placed in
ordi r, and faMuied tog-.-ther ; a method he learned fnim Leibnitz.
He derivid from nature extreme sensiljility, or rather irritability of temper, whicliis
ever the child of genius. He spoke therefore from his own experience, when, in a let-
ter to Voltaire, he thus expressed himself ; " Providence holds with an eipial hand the
balance of human happiness. He has loaded you with riches, he has loaded you with
glory ; but misfortune was necessary, and he preserved the ecjnilil)rium by giving you
sensil)ility. If my wishes could take cllect, 1 would Ijestow upon you that tranquility
which fliis at the approat h of genius, which is inferior to genius in relation to society,
but far superior in reg.ird to our.selves ; then the most celebrated man in Europe would
be also the most liai)py."y
* He left notliin:.^ vimsploitd, titliiT ia llie lieuvciis, or on the cai'ili, or in tli'j sea, and wus of
-ucli ;i woiiiltrl'iil ( ..ji.a ity, thui lir siciuvtl born for the iinmciliulc object of his pursuit.
t Ticlu'.niiM'l.uljK df, Kc. \). !;7.
\ llalUr rcsitwcd, .is hi?> t!r]naiinent for tliut literary jounuil, all publications on history, medicine,
.inatuMiy, n.aui'.d Iiiskjiv, and itvciul iiiiHcell.incous worKs, p.irliculariy ilicjsc which ai)pfared in Italy.
§ U i'.iul bill! (|uc la piovidviiLC vtuillc tciiir la balance cj^alc pour tons h.s hviniains. EUc vousa
comblc dc bicns, < lie vous a coniblo dc ^loirc ; niaisil vous-1'alloit tlu nialhcur, cllc u trouvc I'cquili-
brc en vuus rtiidai.t si nsiblc. Si ks soubails uvoient du pouvoir, j'ajouterois aux bicnLits du dcstinj
\{i vous (liaim rois tU' la iraiiquilli'c ijui suii ilcv.ait k- j,^cnii', qui ne lu vaul pas par rapport a lu socicte;
iiiais (pii v.mi bicn davaiitai^e par uippuri a iious-nicim; : dcs-lors riiouimc le- plus celcbrc ilc I' Eu-
rope I'croit uusbi Ic plu'i heurcu.x.
».Nn IN IMI. in(N'lU\ lU HI b OKISONj.
8Gl)
iOf
IJi'uas inin.iiitnt iiii(l< r sii kfit>s ',\s well iVom ixtrrmf siis(t|)t''f)illty, ii^ Iicimiim* he
sva:ipr\.('liKt' <I Iroin his li'i 'ary occiipitions. Mr \\:\s i'oiui, tlunton , oi'tiikiiif; xi'iKiit
ftmrdii's, in iir r.iU iiLitid lo nuiovc th« itnumli.iic i HI its of piin, \ui\ to clu tk lii'>(lis-
urdiT, iIkiIi to curt t r.,(lic.illy. Ii» iii> l.ittir uars In- ati iisloimd hiinsiU'ti) opium, *
wliicb, np( i.itiii^ a. a Ic inpoi-.n'; p; iliilivr, only increased his n.itural inip.itiv »;<:«'. This
rcslKhsniss ottinip*.', uJiit luiccasionall) disiiirlud his trampiihty even in his younj^tr
days, and in ihc full flnu of his lu.ihh and spirits, was ronsidcrahly h«.ij,'htinid by the
advai:ccs ot a^T, and ilic disorders uhich shattered his Irainc towaidb the close iA his
lile.
Historrispondi nee in iviry period of life was extensiNc, punctual, and carriid on in
till' I'Jij^lish, I'ruich, (Mrniati, I.atin, and Italian I in>fii:i),'es. Six \olninis ol' I^atin
e|)islles, and iImk in ilv (lirniaii tonj^ne, addtissf d to him from nu n ol karninmn \aii'
ous parts ol Ktirope, 'uvc been f^iven tf) 'he pnblie, bnt liis own have never made their
appearance. It is much to Ik liinuiftd, that he seldom prcsirvLfl any copies; l)einj>;
himself too mneh occupied for that pnrpose, and iu\er snHiLJeiitly ricli to maintain a
secretary. His two j)riM(ij)al (•orr(sp(m(liiits to whom he opened his heart, weri' IJopnit
of (»<.'neva, and John (iesner of Zmic ; to Ciesner he wrote either in (ierman w Latin,
to Bonnet in the i'V( nch ton,':»iie. This celebrated Iriind of Mailer possesses seven manu-
script volumes of his litters; bi inj^ an uninterrupted correspondence of twenty. three
years; bef^un in March IT.")!, and nnishinf^only a feu days before !iis death, in Decem-
ber 1777. This epistolary comnurce comprehends a great variety of subjects, princi-
pallj' concerning ph\siol(j)^'y, natural history, the sltiictureof the };lobe, politics, morality,
and religion. Haller being accustomed to consult his friend on all occasions, to dis-
close his most secret thoughts, and to relate his diurnal occupaticms ; these eftus'ons of
the moment discover the successive train of his studies, the progress of his discoveries,
and gradual advances in knowledge.
♦' 'These lettersof n»y most respectable friend," added IJoimet, '• disphn his genius,
his understanding, and the goodness of his heart, more fully than uiiy of Jiis publica-
tions. His style, concise, OMgeijc yet piitures(|Ue, corris|)onds with 'he strength and
originalit) of his ideas ; atul \k spe iks w'tih no less sublimity than ccjnviction of the great
truths of natural and nvealeW religion 'I'hongh he treats the ninneroiis advocates for
inlidility, aiid particularly Voltaire, with suHicient severity; yet nis heat is the ardour
of conviction, and did not procied from eitlur pH,iie or spirit of contradiction : he seem-
ed as if he uas pusfinally inn rested in all ipiesti./n^ on revelation, and pleaded its cause
as if it had Ixen his own. He is no (..ss severe against those writers, who exclude the
intervention of a fust intellectual cause in the creatif)n and arrangement of the universe,
and particularly censures the materialists who endeavo'.ir todeduce mechanically the for-
mation of organized bodies. In a word, hi.s ])hilosf)|)hy was entirely ])ractical, because
it was entirely Christian; and nothing secured his approbation, but whit tended to im-
prove the understanding, or to amend the heart."
I am concerned to find, that the pul)lication oft!>;s( )rrespondencc, between two such
enlightened and virtuous philosophers as II ilier and li )nnet, whici) in some wijrks had
been announced to the public, should, for private reasons, be relinij'iished. Religion,
morality, philosopby, and learning, would be greatly benetitted by ihi:. epistolary com-
nierec.
■ Zimmivnian inforr/.s u-,, fliut he took iliiily solia^ji .i quantity us cijjlit graius. Uclber de ilic
Einsiimkcii p. 316. ttl. Lcips. 178V.
.r;o
oOM, ;;
rii \ V r.i.^ IN oV. 1 1 2EHL *. N :>,
H.ilki"-, lihrcrv. consisliiiji; olabuut 4,0' )'» volumes, waspiirclias^il Tor 2,0001. by the
' n.j/ror, i'>r tliL-publu; library ol' Milan, s\ln.ri 1 1 xamincd i' in 1783. The collection
I-, i)U!iicularly rich in books ofnaiural history, and ib render* d iuvaluibli.' iVom numerous
lun'-t^stions ol' Haller, written on the margin:,.
flMKr was three limvs married, (lisi to Marianne Wytscii, in 17:>1, who died in 1736.
2. 'IV) i:n;'.al)eih IJnehers, in 17:>.;, who died in childbed the same or the followint^
\ear: both natives of Bern. .3. In 1739, to Amelia i'rederica Teichmoyer, a Clermco^
lady, \\hosur\ived Inm. lie has written and publislad the lives of his two first wives
lltJelUii^d It children, lour sons and four daughters, all of whom he lived to sec estab-
lished.
Hi:; eldest hon, (;otli«.b Kmannel, who was born in 17.1,>. followed his fadterS ex.
.diiile in (IdicatiiiL,- himself to the '.erv ice of his country, and to the pursuits of litera-
ture. IIl waseleeiid member of the |i;reat council, and obtained various employments
under ii;nv( nnnent, particularly the bainia.u,e of Nyou, in which situation he died in
I7i;('). Ill distint^niished him>.elf as an author by various publications tendingto illus
tv^ te the historv and literature of Suit;'.erland, and particularly by his Schweitzer biblio-
lluk, or Swiss Lil)rary, in 0 volumes 8vo. of which he lived to puljlish only tlie first.
In this wf)rk, deserve^lly esteemed f<;r method and accuracy, the indelati;.,'ablc author
rnunu rates alUhe books' which treat of Switj^erland, in all languages, and all die works
published by the Swiss on all subjects. He even descends to the minutest articles
which have appeared in reviews and journals, and in most instances, where the publica-
tion deserves detail, analyses die contents, corrects the errors, and gives his opinion oi;
the merits of the performance.
I was personally acquainted witii the learned author, and am indebted to him for some
curious information on Switzerland, and for several anecdotes relative to his illustrious
father, which I have introduced into these biographical memoirs.
LETTER LVIII.
M. Sprituifti's collection of Swiss birds.... Of the Bearded Vul*urc.
M. SPllUNGLI'S cabinet of natural history, is remarkable for the collection of
stuffed birds, bcth local and migratory, that are found in Switzerland. In 1776 this
collection consisted of two hundred specimens; and when I last visited Bern, in 1786,
had received an addition of fdtv species.
One of die most remarkable birds in this collection, Is the vultur barbatus of Lin-
naius, die vultur aureus of Gesner, or bearded vulture of the English ornithologists.
As many fabulous tales have been related concerning its uncommon strength and rapa-
ciousness ; as great confusion has arisen from the variety of names applied by different
naturalists to tlie same l)ird, and as some travellers have doubted whether this specimen
is the large vulture of the Alps, or the golden vulture of Conrad Gesner; I shall sub-
join a description of some particulars principally communicated to me by M. Sprungli
himself, accompanied with a drawing of the head of the natural size.
This specimen was a female bird, caught in the canton of Glarus ; it measured from
the tip of the beak to the extremity of the tail, six feet six inches French* measure ;
and eight feet from the tip of one wing to that of the other expanded ; it weighed
^vhen lirst taken, eleven pounds. This bird, though always called a vulture, yet dif-
fers from that genus, and is referable to the eagle, in having the head and neck co-
» Six tool eleven iucliet. onc-fifth English, ami eight feet bix inches six -fifteenth;'.
Avn IV 7;iK ((u-VTKv iM i.ir .;Rjr,oN'r,.
871
)0l. In- the
collection
numerous
-cl in 1736
following
a (lcTn)iii:
fn-'st wives
hcc cstab-
ithcrS ex.
s ol' lit( ra-
ijiloyuKnts
lie died in
ngto illus
zer- biblio-
y the first,
ihlc author
the works
est articles
lie publica-
opinion oi;
m for some
i illustrious
allection of
11 1776 this
■n, in 1786,
tus of Lin-
lithologists.
h and rapa-
by different
is specimen
I shall sub-
^I. Sprungli
isurcd from
* measure ;
it weighed
ire, yet dif-
id neck co-
vered with feathers, wlunas one of the distiiu'tinns of tlie vulture, according lo l.in.
n:i;us, is thai the IkikI is ib siimte of feathers.
NotwithMaiiding this (li^iiiiguishing mnrk, yet Linnxus was probablv itulueed to class
jt with the vultures, IVoin the gineral fnrtn of the Ixulv, and shape of the beak, which
is the first essential characteristic in thegeiura (^f birds.'
M. Sprungli, however, is of opinion, that it might In classed betwetii the vulture ai\d
the eagle ; and Stor < jiroposes to form a new genus o\' it, under the name ot dvpaetus,
by the follow ing characters :
Rostrum rectum, basi cera insiructum sctis porreetis confertissimis barbalum ; apicc
auctum uncosuleato.
Caput pennis tectum.
Tile specific character he would define thus :
Gypaetus(grandis) alijido-rutilus dorso fiisciis, t;enia nigra supra et infra oculu.s.
It inhabits the highest parts of the great chain of Alps which separates Swit^.erland
from Italy, forms its nest in clefts of rocks inaccessible to man, a.id usuallv |)roduces
three young ones at a time, sonulinies four, if we may judge fn;m those which accoin-
pany the old birds, when they descend into the lowir regions for prev. They live on
animals which inhabit the A\\)s, such as the chamois, white hares, marmots, snow hens.
kids, and particularly lambs, from which circumstance it is called lammer-m-ver. or lamli
vulture. ^ •
If common report may be credited, this rapacious creature sometimes attacks even
man and carries of! children. M. Sprungli, without absolutely denying the possibility
of this account, has, notwithstanding all his rese.irches, nc\er been able to ascertain a
well authenticated instance ; and thence rather concludes it a fable inv cnted by the pea-
sants to frighten their children. This species does not appear but in small companies
usually consisting of the two old birds and their young. *
Conrad Gesnerluisgivena short but accurate' description of this bird under the name
of vultur aureus, or gold-geycr;t and an engraving from a skin sent to him Irom the
Orisons. I he figure diough rudely executed, yet exhibits with sullicient accuracy the
distinguishing characters of the sjjccies and genus such as the configuration of the beak
the legs feathered down to the claws, and particularly the beard, in fine a comparison
with the specimen in Sprungli's collection evidently proves it to be the same bird.
Sincc^this great naturalist, no other person seems to have described it from nature
except Ldwards under the denomination of the bearded vulturi'. The descriiition of
that bird, and the engraving;]: from a si)ecimcn sent from Santa Cruz in liarbarv cor-
resjwnd exactly with the vultur barbatus of Sprungli; and the head, if comparJd with
the drawing annexed to this account, will be found to answer suflicientlv.
Sprungli also favoured me with the fbllowing remarks, in answer t'o those travellers
who assert, that his specimen is not the large vulture of the Alps, sometimes called
from Its yellowish, plumage, the vautour jaune, but a smaller species ; because tl;e larger
sort measures occasionally Iburteen feet, or more, from the tip of one wing to that of
the other. He possesses two specimens of this bird ; the one a full grown female, from
which my description and dr.iwing are taken, measuring eight French feet : the other a
male but young, and somewhat less. He has examined four specimens, neither of
which measured more than nine feet; but as these specimens were not full grown males
nths.
Sec Sior-. AIpcu Rcisca, vol. i. i Sec lliat. Avium, edit. FiMuk. \ Sec tab. loO, oi l.i. histoiM
872
COXE's TnAVF.1.5 IS S W I TZE H L A N fj.
iK' isrcadv t(. .How llu.t an instauc: or two may possibly have occurred, m wluch this
l,Srd nKaJurcd near twelve IVct irom tip to tip of the wings. Tliosc who give it a greater
expansion, have derived iheir information either honi persons who were not natural sts
or tVo.n uneertain and exaggerated reports. 'I'he same remark may also be ^JPP '"l o
the fabulous stories recorded by the peasa.Us, eoneernmg its wonderful strength as ue 1
as size. It is likewise to be observed, that the peasants do not confine the na.ne of 1am-
mer-irever to this spi cies ; but extend it indiscriminately to several large buds ot prey,
from v.he.K-e has arisen great confusion of names, and much uneertamty m the accounts
''* Some onlithologists seem t(^ hav e formed of it several species, u hieh on comparison
will anmar to be 'tin- sanu-, or only varieties of the same species^ 1 lu.s the bean. e^
vultun, the cinereous vulture, and the fulvous vulture, vh.oh Mr. La liam las des-
eribcd as three difiuent species, arc probably the same b.rd as that m tins col ecuon.
Of the fust there can be no din.l.t, since Mr. Lath.m reh rs to the bearded vulture oi
Kduards, u hieh I have shev. u t(, be that of Sprimgli The ciuereous vulture is des-
cribed b\ Latham after Hrisson: " ikneath the throat hangs a kind ol beard, cotnposed
of verynarro^v feathers like hairs; legs covered with leathers quite tothe toes, which
are vdlow ; cla^vs black."* This description accord, ^vllh the bird in (piestion, and
particularlv in the beard, which is the distinguishing ehar .e.tenstie. 1 he fulvousjul-
lure of Latham is the griftin of BufVon, and the iM-etuh naturalist doubts whether it
is not a variety of Gesner's golden vulture, which is proved to be the same as Sprungh s
''^' While 'the most celebrated ornithologists have thus given to the bird different names,
they have also in other instances confounded it with other birds, lo xvluch it has no other
resemblance than size, strength, and voraeiiy. ^„„,;„,.4.
Thus Buflbn erroneotisly cohjcctures the vultur gryphus of Linnceus, or the condort
of America, to be the same as "the lamiuer-geyer, or vulture of the Alps ; whereas the
description of the condor given b) Linnceus, as ^vell as by those ^vho had seen it, ditters
entirely from that of the bearded vulture. The condor is described by the Swc^U- as
having " the head destitute of leathers, but covcnd with a slight brown coloured down,
with a conib reaching alon^^ the t.^p of the head, and having the throat nakeo and ot a
•xddibh eoloi.^" Frezier, in his \-ovage to the South Seas, also tnus describes the con-
dor ' " Wc one dav killed a bird ol prey called u condor, which was nine ieet from tiie
end of one wii,g to'the end of th.e other, and had a brown con»b or crest but not jagged
like a cock's ; ^he fore part of 'is throat is red whhout leathers, like a turkey, and they are
generallv large and s'u.ng enough lo take up a lamb. In order to get them Irom the iioek,
ilKT draw tlKmsclves luio a circle atid advance towards them with their wings extended,
that being droN e K.gc iher and too close, they ma)- not be able to defend themselves ; then
they pick^hem out and carrA them oliV Gracilasso says, ''there are some m Peru sixteen
ieet from the point oi one vang to the other, and that a certain nation ot Indians adored
them "
Mr. Latham seems also to he no less mistaken, when on the authority of the transla-
tor of the abbe Fortis's Travels inio Dalmatia, he conceives the vultur ijerenopterus ol
t i\ir!LaUK.nM.i hh SupploiuL^nloi' the Geneiul Synopsis uf Birds, p. 1, seems also tw adopt the con-
iccuuc uf hv.{l'>,r„ in classiu;,^ the L,m>nKT,4;cyci- and Condor undcMhc sunu- sp.acs ; t..m.gh he emi-
lesscs, "Uuu il still icniul.is dubious, wiiul-cilhc Lannnci-geycr be Uicsainc u ah the Conuou , m ^
incre variety of il>e Ikui.K d vuliure." lie u>ids also, with a candour uhich docs hun honour, "I is
much to be lo.a.d, ihul other auil.ur. .s v,-,.il .s ,-uy:H If, have e^really confounded the spec.es ot \ ul-
tures , for beini.;like tlie fdcon nibe, louR l-.ved, ilr- u' piumuice puts on a great variety ot dress, buJli-
cicnt to deceive' those >vlio liave hitherto attcaipled lodiscrinimato them."
ich this
{greater
tural'sts
plied to
as well
of 1am-
ol' prey,
iccounts
1 pari son
heard'- d
lias dts-
)1 lection,
iilture oi
I is des-
imposed
>, which
ion, and
ous vul-
hethcr it
prungU's
t names,
no oihcr
condorf
trcas the
it, differs
iiwede as
id down,
arid of a
5 the con-
from the
ot jag!>-cd
d the} are
the fioek,
:x tended,
'cs -y dien
•u sixteen
<Mi adored
le transla-
)ptcrus of
>pul\e con-
iigh lie coii-
>i\(loiir, or a
lour, " It is
JLb oi" Vul-
drcbs, bufli-
.^
V
t
^■^
1 \i.ls
I |„uil('rl>riiiirM
Itrii'lliorii
1 ,Mill.ii»l orii
» ICIx-iiflliill
> »;lclscli<'fli<ini
I liiiiiftr.iii I III I'll
1 lnU'pic»P Kjjcr
t FjKloricir Kjrrr
iMcsclifrlioni
1 I'iiisliT AiirliiTri
I Sclircckliorii
( VWlUM-horii
Ill'lM .ll|l
IIITlirilllrll
ii'lliiirii
li.ilji'orii •
clHclit'f liorii
iiiiirrr.iii linrii
nloriiir Kijcr
Lxlorior Kjfcr
irsclicrlioni
I'iiisliT Aiir liorn
S«lirt!cl»lM>rii
VWlUM-horii
f/iniKctis to he the v.utour dcs Alpcs cUs.rilKcl In Conrul (1, snrr, :,ul tlu- snmc v
ol tin _,H.rcnoptm m h.^M'pt, the head of that bird is ''naked a.xl urinUnI ;'' al.d Rv'
savs, tucl.a arc naked ; tuo .:haract<ri that rssenlially di, tin-Mi ,h it li<,n, (h. heard. , I
"ict'or ;;: Hau! ""^ " """■■ """■■"' ^^ '^'^ '^^'''^"■^' "'^' "'^" "'^' '-^ ^'--^ "''''
The iKarded vuhure ur.t only inhabits those Alps ;vliieh separate h,U (Vun, Su if-.a
land, hut IS a so found n. Corsica and Sardinia. l\ IlJ.n il.rorn.cd Sprun< li til
saw a hn-cl .nCors.ea uh.eh uas uounded in the win;;, and ua. t.ncpu- li na /
same spcces as he sluKd specimen: and Letiel, in h.s Natural II sforv S^,^ ,
g vesa hgt,rcancl descr.pt.ou of th. sanu: hird, under the name of har. clever o^Z^i
vulture. It has also hcen lound in the mountait.s of Alric.i ; for Mr. Kdward v •
mspecnnenlrom Santa Cm. in liarhary, and Ircquen.ly on Caucasus and tun ou
S^'lu!^^ (^ndln. ^'^"^'•■^-^-■'^ P-^ -'■ ^i'---. - -^ '-n> Iron, the travels ol" l^t^.
I was sur|)risecl not to fuKl among the Swiss hirds in the catalo-ue, the aide Blanc
o acpuia alha oi < Hr.sson ; the faico Italieus.i a.ul tin: laleo u,o,Uan us of k s ne i
as particularly .wUzcr-ialc, the German name of the latter, sce.ns nece. a ilv oi,n
ply that U must be a Swiss bird ; Sprung-li, ho„ever, assured nu.-, th he neve • ad
been able to discover any of these species in the Alps ; that probably the aide Blue
exists, .s a variety of the chrysaetos ; and that both lirisson and W'illond.bv o m
cite Gcsner lor their descriptions ol' the falco italicus, but the authority of 1 1 u sc writer!
only who have never been in the Alps. uinoni> oi mosc uritcis
or the crows it is worthy of observation, that the corvus m-iri.lu^ nf r •„>„-....
coracias of Brisson is faitluilly represented by 1^1^,^^" >B^ ^ Zodo^v^^^^^^^
he denomination ol the red-legged crow. It is the same hird of whict. S/d Ge
KTv has given a figure, and to which he applies the German ai,,)ellations 1 str n"
tahen, ste.nkrae, and which he justly suspeitsto he the cornixc. " ^S
SirtheVo^Jr' '"'"?" '^ ^T''^ "'^'^'^ '^""^- --^'-1^^^-ts seem to h vc c ^ ou";;!
with the corvus graculous, is, however, very different, a.rd called hv Linmeus c u
pyrrhocorax Both these species inhabit the Alps, but the pvrrhocorax is I e n i.s con '
mon; and these appear, according to Sprungli'i observations, to Ix tJ>^ lv J-ics ,'
the crow that prefer Alpine situations. As to the corvus ere n ita of L .n cu\ S ; , .
acknowledges it is totally unknoun to him. All the ornit!u)lo^nsts i.ideel n, io th
bird as an mhabitant of the Alps, on the authoritv of Conrad Gesner, w lio 'Xs "'
under the name of corvus sylvaticus, accompanied with a li^^n.re, which I a no l c asi
resemblance to a crou;, but rather to a curlew ; yet Gcsner's'dcs aiptio f t is n u- u o
impericct to assist us in ascertaining the bird of which he treats. '
LKTTKU LIX.
M. JFyttenlmirs Collection Iccount vfthe Ch.m of mils and. lips .c'n /nnn the en ■
viron.s of ,^irn
!...« .pcCHK-nsol scvcraah„us:„Kl |.I.Mt», .„„„„;. wl,id, is a huge nu'nb, r, !r U„ Ai;;,,;:
•\'()I. i. p. i:!.
vol.. V .
t lb.
;' \0.
! II.. I-.
."i f
'Ili^l. Av nl, r-r;,,|ji.
!-. \iH
i
<•'■• I
• OXF.
I u ,\ \' I r. .; I N s V 1 1 7. i: m, a n d ,
jil;mts f)!' Hu-.f.' ihiul ; and \w h.is ;iln.iKly l)ct;iiii to ;irran{;;c' the cnpsuli ^), srcds, and
tViiits.
It i> still moP intircsiiii!^' for the great vnric-ty of Ibssils, stones, and petrifactions
(•r)llicti(l l)v himself in tlie nei^hhoin-hnod of Bern, and from the npjjer and lower
Alps. M.'\\'\itenl)aeh also possesses various she lis, inseets, and numeroiis drawing's of
the i;laeii.rs and uppir AIjjs. lint I was most sinirk uiih that part of hise..l)inei, eom
prelieiidinj; those objects of natural history, uiiich in any dii^^ree influence a|.,aieultiirc.
})hvsie, arts, and tradi s, and uliieh sulhciinily prove the utility of that science in the
[jroi^n-ess and improvement of human comlorl and kno\vU.di^e. 0\\ this subject he has
already publisheil a disstrtation in the acts of the uconomical society at Hern.
Ik- "has not formed this aini)le collection from mere motives of curiosity, or from de-
sultory views; but with a settlul intention to illustrate the natural history of Swit/.cr-
land in i^eneial, to Ibrm a i\ p(-!j;ra|)hical and miiieralo^ical des( riptif)n of this canton
in particular and to elucidate ihe orii^inal formation ol mountains which is the favourite
f)bject of his restai'. li(s, and wliich his fre(|uent visits to the Alps will enable him to
I xeiiite with fide lily and aicuraey.
At my rcfjuest, lliis inde ialii, ibl' observer iavoiuxd me with a plan and description
of that ran}i;c of Alps which is seen horn 15ir:i, and of the intervening district; an ex-
tract of which I submit to your perusal.
That jiart of the chain of' Alps seen from Hern distinsjuished by the different names of
Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn, Kgcr, Junj^frauhoni, Luuter-Aar-horn, Hlunilis Alp, &c. is
represented on the plan annexed tr) this letti r. You will there (observe this immense am-
phidieaire, gradually rising from the environs of Hern, to elevated |)eaks, covered with
t'ternal snow, and hitherto inaccessible.
'J'he plains and hills befaeen lierii and Thiin, arc composed of rounded stones, and
argillaceous stones called molasses, fre(|uently ranged in alternate strata. The molasse at
Gurten, about two miles from Bern, contains though rarely, glossopetra ; and the
;-,trata of Bcliibcrg, about seven or eight miles Irom the capital, arc full of different
species of chamites, ostracites, globosites, selenites, strombites, and other similar petri-
I'actions.
The ridge of hills w hich borders the high road between Bern and Thun contains in
several places, and particularly above Musingen, an extensive strata of ostracites, some
pieces of which weigh more' than fifteen pounds each. The situation of the strata in
•Jiese different hills, their direction, their nature, and the bodies which they enclose seem
to prove, that these hills formed anciently one great plain, which has been since hollowed
and divided by the \\aters, particularly by those of the Aar.
On the slopes and summits, which in some places are of considerable elevation are
frequently found those large masses of granite, that arc used for the public works and
buildings' of Bern. These masses so nearly resemble the granite of the Grimsel, and
of the mountains which compose the great central chain of the Alps, as to render it pro-
bable, that in the ancient revolutions of the globe, they have be en brought by the wa-
ters to the places where they are at present ibtmd, before the deep vallies, which now
separate them from their original mountains, existed. The same remark may be as just
•y applied to the blocks of marble and other calcareous stones, which though now remov-
td to a considerable distance from their native situation, are also discovered in large quan-
tities ujioa the hills adjacent to Bern, and likewise serve for the buildings of that capi-
tal.
As we approach the town and lake of Thun, the view- opens, and discovers, towards
♦he sout'a-cast, that high calcareous chain, of which the Stockhorn, the Neunercn, and
.\ 1 ) i .
I hi:
OI'.N' I U 1 01 1 il I u U I SON;.,
h;..
and
ihc- (i.iiit* iiiiii iiivc, IjLLii illii'-.:rat((l l>y ilic hotaiiitMl l^liDurs ol' llic c».iJ<r.tt'Tt H.illri
This ( iKiiii uliicli juiiij that (if Si;h\\.irt/:ciilnir;;- touanls thr (Miiff)ii f)t' l'rihiifr.;'i, i
chiefly calcareous, Jiniloiilaiiis fcucr [ntriractioiis than the abuw uk iirjoni-d hilh,, ic i
not ol'suOicijiit t.'li:v.itiui» to l)f com red witli snow lit siiiuiiur.
ThtNicis, whicii is ih'jlast niuiiiitain lit thi-j cuh.aTLOii-. chain, staii'K on the I>f)r(lu .
of the lake, a;\d scp.iu.tcj the valley ol !'"r".tiiijfiii tVuin that ol' Simnii. ; it is pi cnliaih
interesting; to travcllirs, on accoinit ol' the fine view I'njin its sninnut ; and t«t nafuMlist?j.
becanseit joins to tlie Alps. Towards its loot bed.-, ol" slate have bun diseuvired, hi!;hei
ii|) il i> of calcareous stoMc, and near its tup is Hjund a s[)jcies oi" pi|(ldiii,L;'-stoii^ , lilK d
with small liai^nients ol" petrilactions.
In traversing; the lake of Tluni, tlic borders, which arc planted uith\In(s, are com
posed ol' rounded stones, nnitid by a calcare(.ns cement, u:i fir as the nionntains ol' Si.
Beat. There, near Kallingcii, the rucks are calcareous and rut^ii^ed, < onlainin};- in a I'lW
places broken petrifactions, of which it is often dillicult to ascert.un the species. (),\
continuing; my route at the loot of the Si. Beat, 1 observed the lirst rocks that are aljsiv
lutely |M.rpendicnlar, and even impendini;, and which arc marked atdilKruit elevation
with furrows, occasioned by the waters of the lake that, in former jjcriods, was probabl)
several hundred feet above its present level. I remarked the same furrows nearlv at the
same elevations, in the vallies of Lauterbrunneii and Ilasli, which coincidence se'ems to
prove, that the lake of Thini once extended over all these (jaris, covered tlie whole |)l lir.
of Bern, and reached as high as the Lengenberg, where Gruner discovered those petri
factions called I'holades.
Having traversed the lake of Thun, I entered the narrow l)at agreeable valley of Unter
seven and Interlachen.on each side of which the motmtains approach cachother, and form.
if I may so express myself, the vestibule of the Alps. The valley separating the lakes
of Thun and Brientjj, which appear to have been once miiled, is entirely formed b\
stones brought by torrents from the Alps. On the right is Abe ndberg, covered with
trees and herbage, atid stretching towards a group of mountains of considerable e.vtent,
yet little known, though Wieirtops may be seen at Bern.
^ The Ballenhoechst, Sulek, Schnabelhorn, Schwartzberg, Schwalmern, Scluhhorn,
Kirchfluh, Latreycnfirst, and Ureyspitz, arc the most remarka!)le nujuntains in thi->
group, which on one side borders the valley of Lauterbrunnen, and on the other towers
opposite to the Neiss, at the commencement of the vallc} (jf Frutingen. it is united
by means of the Sefmen Alps with the Dents Rouges, and the great central chain of
granitical mountains. The mountains of this group stand on a" base of argiiiaceour.
sehistus, containing a few petrifactions, which is rarely visible but at certain elevations.
Towards Lauterbrunnen particularly a fme-grained calcareous stone abounds.
To return to the valley of Unterseven. On the left is another group of calcareous
mountains, extending along the lake ofBrientz towards llasli, and standing also on an
argillaceous schijtus, which is but rarely visible. And though the granil'ical chain is at
.'I very small distance, it is, however, so entirely concealed by these secondary moun
tains, as to be nowhere discovered, except between Unterseven and Interlachen, where
tlie Jungfrau presents heisdf in all herm.ijcstv.
From these delightful plains I attempied to penetrate towards the granitical chain of
Alps through narrow vallies enclosed between perpendicular rocks of an enorn\ous
height ; but every where I met with secondary m(juntains, which, to a considerable
elevation, conceal the primitive bed of granite, and render the approach to it exiremelv
dangerous, if not impracticable. Thus the valley of Lauterbrunnen is bordered by
calcareous rocks even to its farther i xlren/uv. At Sicliellauenen the lii-t pi;:ss', s '"'
.'5 T 2
*«•
• t»M'.
I II A
IN .',\'.i i;;).ui A VI,.
„i.ii(ii' iiiK.i;. ii.i'iiiiii}:;- iIk' Iki-l- (>l'l!u- f:»l(';iiV()MM-(n;ks, wlwcli iirc (jI .t vui ^ivat lici)<ii(
( '.'luimrni;;' iii\ I'diitr i"\v;ir(k tlii' i!,;iiii, wliicli strcttlus Ih^ux ihc Jtiii^lhiii to ilx-
'. Irossliorij ;iinl IJti illi(;tn, I ohsdvid.i tor!; ol ^t( aliti-, in which sdim v( ins ol'Uadhavc
>n.ii (h'MdMinl and nnikidat lloh.ilp. ni;ihu-ii|f is the Iriii' p:raniiii\il chain, which,
lowwu, Mill thui is lri.(|iKnil\ (nvcird n ith i alcan (iiis pi'iiks.
I found ihf ;iii;)n>a(h lo this chain less chllu ult at \\ cn^c n:,!|>, the last of a uronp ol
' aUaivoMs and sJiistous niuuntains luluiin LaiitcrhrinuKn and (IrindJwald, \\hi( h
ilu.ic ji ins the .lunj^lian, tlu snniiniis vIkivoI appear to In' pranite. In the valUv ol
(.iiindi lu;;l(l 1 oI)su\((l onlx tlie ari;illaceons schistns and calcarein.s stone ; the ex'ter-
.alpaits olthe E\>,i,v, ul die ,Nh lunljer;;, and olilie W ellerhorn, are chiefly calcareous,
and cover the i^ranite ol'ihe central chain, and the only pieces of |;'ianitc are the Iraf^mcnts
l)ionfi,ht into the \ alley l)\ the luo glaciers. 'I'hat cliain, which is opposite to these gla.
ciers, and bcjidirs the northern side ol'tiic v;ilK\ ol (lriiid( Iwald, lias an arf^nllaceotts
base, which, insexiral placi s, parlicniiiiy towards Il.;sli, ( oniains cornua anunon(s.
•.ind is cov( red ,\ith calcareous rocks, through which it (jften penetrates at difVereiit
heij^IUs.
1 \ull now tak( a nearer \iew ol' the primiiivc chain, and trace the Alps in the same
order as they are inarked upon the annexed plan. I shall considir the .linji^l'rau as the
centre, from which I will ake my departure on oik side towards the (lenuni, and on
•he other towards tlu Schrcckhorn, W'eiiirhorn, and (irinisel.
'I'hi .lnn;i;IVau, or N'irgin, is one ol" tlu hit,diest and most heautirul mountains in the
caiUunol' Hern. The grai ifcdoes not ai)peartill a very considerable elevation ; its fool
Ijeiiiii; in most ])arts coven d by rocks, which arc ol' calcareous stone, called by the na-
tivcs SuildeniUih,or which an elevated p< ak is denominated the Monk. On 'following
these rocks to Sichellauiren, about two leai,nics I'rom Lauterbrunnen, I (observed a red
•stratum, tliat seems to fo' in the separation between the granite and the calcareous sub-
stance ; it is composed (/fan argillaceous slate, sjmtted with brown and green, and of a
fine grained iron ore (as 1 was surprised to find) containing aiiumites. " I observed tlic
same stratum at the bottom of the Kger and Wetterhorn, and of several mountains to-
wards Ilasli ; 1 remarked it at dilUrent heights ; but as all access to them has been hither-
to found impracticable, 1 cannot attempt to explain a phenomenon which merits a nearer
iiiveslig;aion.
Tile chain ofthc Jungfrau stretches to die right by those inaccessible peaks called the
Gletscherhorn, Kbenlluh, Mittaghorn, Gnjsshorn, Hreithorn. I am entirely unacquaint
-dwlduluir structure, except from the fragments, which I have observed at their feet,
ur Oil the masses of ice descemling from their tops. Limestone occurs at vcrv consider-
a!>le heights ; ])articularly white marble, and a line gray marble, wliich is the matrix of
a red hemalile lilK d w ilh innumerable small crystals of iron of uii octagon figure, and at-
tractable by the magnet, liesides these stones I noticed on the .'.';iaciers of Breitlauinen
and Breilhoni, various s|H.cies ol granite, l)oth foliated and in blocks, of iron-stone, of
saxnm foniacum, or stelstiin, and of argillaceous and micaceous schistus. All these
fragments sufiicienUy prove that granite prevails in the higher parts, although it is frc-
'iueiuly covered with secondary mountains.
To the right is the majestic lilumlis Alp, which is a fine ol.ject from the plains ; a
large glacier mentioned by no author stretches at its feet. I first noticed it from the
opposite heights of Oefchenengrat, and at the same time observed, that the feet of the
AlpschelLnliorn and Blumlis Alp are coverecl with black schistus, and that the granite i^
not apparent, but at a considerable iiciglit.
ANO IS \Hh CIA
I n '. »•• Ttf ! iU ISOiys.
Ak'wd.tvs alifT this i>:|u(liti.jii, I nu.ui.ti'l u, the summit of ilu,- ^'l.ir.n r, calKd by
the |>c.K.tiii , (l.im(Iiij(l( t(l), r, ivhtn it forms :i ^(.|•y sin p ricl;^'- tow.irfls thf valNy dl
Limtcrhrimiicii. lioiu tliuicc I luhild llu' v:.st aiuplmlK'.itn.' of ilir I/iiitirhniiiiu'ii
j,'la(;itTs; I rrmarktfl also, that the valUy of I.amcrhninmn ends at tliis place; that ii
has only one is,ni' Ijthind Hlunilis Alp, u lure a lirf,'c frlaeicr, with a pi lin and mihrokcr
siirfacc, stn k-his towards the v;.II( y old isU.r. IKn- ihi n is llu' ( Ktnniity of thf valk\
of Laiitcrbrnnntn, which tspands it tin.' Hit of the I'i^cr and tlu- Jnn,i,'li'an, continiu-'s
almost in a straight line as far as Sic-h. Ilanincii to the loot of the (lUtehuhr)rMaiid ul'thr
t^dacicrol'StuHistiin, where it Ir.rms an an;;k', and hends towards Hhimlis Alp.
The rid,i(e of the glaeit.- of (laniehi is til" a i)laek calcareous stone, uhieh, in i\ian)
places, is tiT a line tixtnre, ar\d splits into lamina of arhomboiflal form; in other parts it
is coarsel) f;ramdated, containing' w hite and black sp;ir. The sides of the Hhimlis Alp
bordering the glacier are black slate, in whieli I found several balemnites, and a fragment
of aconm amnujiiis, a foot in diami tir. 'J'he |;ieces of granite which are discovered
upon the glacier, and which most prol)ably fell from the snnuuits of the lilnmlis Alp and
of the Dents Hougis, is very similar to that granite, containing veins of lead, near SicheK
laiiinen in the valley of Lauterbrumun.
The granitical chain which exteiKK on the right by the Alpschelenhorn anil the Al
tits, is entirely concealed and lost in Mount (lemmii where only calcareous stone and
slate arc discovered. As I havi' not yet had any opportunity to examine the moimtains
of Simmenthol and of CJessenay, 1 cannot inform you, if the granite appears through
their calcareous covering.
But let us return to tin Jimgfrau, and truce the moimtains towards Grindelwald and
the Grimsel. Thetwo high pyramids which tower near the Jimgfrau are the two I'lgers,
called from their position exterior a-ul interior. Calcareous stone is visible to a great
height ; many jjcrsons indeed pretend, that the whole side of the exterior Kger towards
Grindelwald is entirely calcarcfjus ; but I am convinced, from repeated observ;itions,
diat the substance of these moimtains is granite, though it is covered with calcareous
stone lying on riddish slale, which in man) places fornisa sjjccies of brescia, composed
of an argillaceous base, covered with ca?care(jus fragments. You oljserve behind the
exterior Kger two small peaks which seem united by a ridge ; these are the X'ieschcr-
horn and the Zesi uberg, which overlook the inferior glacier of Grindelwald. The stones
that have fallen <jn the glacier shew, that their summits, as well as that of the Schreek.
horn, arc of granite in blocks, \einid granite, and oilu r lamellated rocks, which frt(iuent
ly contain great steatites, amianthus, and crystals of ipiart/..
_ The high jjcak which appears to stand mar the Zeseuberg is at a v.rv con'^lcK rablc
distance, and probably separated from it by large vallies of ice. This pi'ak, wiiich has
hiUurto escaped the mention of tra\t Hers," seems to be the Kinster Aar-hom, and can
only be ajiproaclied from the Grimsel, or by traversing the glacier of the Aar. I huvc
seen it from the sunnnits of the St. Goth ird, i'rom one'of the heights which si parate the
valley ol Grindelwald from the lake of IJrienli: ; I hive been at i'ts foot upon the glacier
oftheFinster-Aar; on all sides, and in all places, its elevation is stupendous, and appear^
to me to exceed even that of the Schrcckhcjrn, which has been hitherto considered as
the higliest.^
"-Tlais cohjcctuiv ol M. Wjthnbach is confiniKd hv uclu.il ;iKMsun.iiu'ut takui .'conu uiiallv b-
I nillfs ' •- 7 .
Hiii'lii ot
rinstii'iu-liurii
JiiiiKlryulioni
tli<' [lUDiijKj Alps ill Uir t^iiituiiut' 15( III ;
Kllyii^lll I'lti.
11,116 I Mouch
13,r.iu I Siiucckiiuiii
Enj^iish Feci.
l:),5lo
;'(»SK
lUA'. I J.- .N LI* n<;i.i'i.ANfc,
The ScKackliorn, or ptuk of Urror, ri^cs hawirn the tuo j.^l.i'^ier/ ot iHiiultinakl
Coiuiulalliy it?. I)ast., ilu- Mritci.lKTi;, it is not si-ci* froir. the valKy ol (iiiiuli lu.il(l.
.jiitl tht ruj;f:«il ji.itlis \\lii( hliad across llic mijt rior ijflacicr toirs t't.ot an » xtPiiiK I_\ tlilli
uli amUlaiiKfrtius; pari ol' it ii ul)MrNul IVoin that j^lacirr. The tops ol the M< iiiii
III r),' arc ol^raiutf, ami tlu- low ir parts of laiutliatnl ruck, h! mltdwilh hii";iiiiKl (piart;;
Vhv pikccl suur-iils ol' the- Sehn «kIiorn, wh'n h rise to aii ciiormotis htij^ht, ap,M ar ic
hi- olixiri' ^raiiitf and other priniitivi' stoms.
Thi iifM ill this chain is thi \\\ ttiihorn, or Sioiniy IVak, uhoh* pcrpcndi ihir side"-
border the bnpirior glacier. The cxti rior part of this uiountain is of calcareous stone lo
a very consideiablc elevation, but the sununi's are uiuhniluidly «)f primitive rock, I
iiotical aloiif;- the sides die same red stralnni, whielj makes its appearance on the K^;et
aMcUrt the I'ooujf the Jnn}i;fran. HJiind llu' Witterhorn is seen an elevated rock, which
is sSiid liv the iiihabitjiitb of (Irindelnald to border the };lacier of the Laiileraar, and
■\\liieh I'liiin llniK'e hasbien asitiuUil l>\ s^ viral chasseurs.
K\aininin}>; ihestones brouj^hldown by the superior j^iaeier, 1 did not discover much
granite in mass, but often veiiud granite," and lanieilated rock, whiih fre<piently enclose
pieets of die coriieiis spalhosns mi.\ed with steatitis, pyrites, and <|iiarti:. The foot of
tin Wettcrhoni and that of the Meltenbei>; contain^, insevii laces, a fioe species ol
uhitv marble, w uli red, gncn.and yellow veins; a (piarry of which, now covered by du-
ini'erior glacier, was Ibrmerly workid.
In liassiii^' fromCniiKkluald to Meyrini^en I traversed the Selieidek, which stands on
the foot of the W'etterhorii, and entirely consists of black slate; this sl.ite continues to
compobc the chain diat divides Grindelwald from the plains of Ilasli and the lake oi
HrieiUi:.
Desteiidini:^ the Sclieid(k I observed, on my riLjht hand, the chain that joins the Wct-
rerhorn and riins towards the (irimsel. As 1 have not particularly examined this chain,
I shall only remark in j^eneral, that from an investii,^ation of the stones and fragments
^vhich strew the vallies and sides of the hills, it appears to contain the same species of
marble which I found on the superior .glacier of Grindelwald, also red slate, arj^illaceous
brescia, and various granites. Hut this much is certain, that die front of these moun-
tains is entirely concealed l)y secondary substances, and that the true region of granite
was not apparent, until 1 had passed Aleyringen and ascended the Grimsel, during the
irreater part of which ascent I only noticed lamellated rocks and granite. All the moun-
tiiins which lorm die Griins'jl and the neighbouring clvain are concealed in my plan by
die VVetterhorn ; they extend behind the Schreckhorn as far ;is the Kinster-aar-horn.
This IS the true region of granite and other primitive rocks, die heart of the central chain,
:ind the great observatory of iht naturalist.
Kigcr -
Wcttcrliorii
All Kis
UoldenhoiTi
Fau;lisli Fcit.
l,l,i)B6
12.217
l.M')t
l.'.lai
Nil' sen
Moii^tiihtTyjhorn
H(iii)^uiii
Stockliorn
EiM^lish Feet.
7,8'J9
7,4j6
7,jyo
7,2 1*
.•!> f\ jir. f.fjffvrnv o^ thl i.nrso.v.
«?»•
clnrtld
u (iiin
il< ItvM-
(|ii.irt;,
i^Riir It
ar sido'-
sfonc to
ock. 1
If K|ji;er
,, whicit
lar, uad
crtuucK
enclose
.' foot of
iccic?> ol
lI by tlK-
taiuls on
iruus to
: lake ol
the Wct-
lis chain,
agmints
jccics of
laceous
luoun-
graiiitc
ring the
ie nioun-
plan by
ar-liorn.
al chain,
Feet
,b
..".10
2\«
l.KTTKH I.\.
Excurntoti tn T/tun, lt'orht\ and /finfft!//unA:,,,T'iri^ 0/ Maiinuv Liin^lums.
'nil'". ( u\ irons itf Hi rn aix in fj;Mu r.il «\tiin\tly (Uli^htfiil, and nn rnad i'\l'ibilH
M more piea-'in^ varit t\ nt hill md d alt than that uhich leads to Thun. It rnns throu^di
an agreeable «.onnlr\, winds ihrnn^h lirtile nuadous, enriched with dark forests of pine
und fir, and oieasion.il j^roMs ol biedi and oak ; tlu cattle, lately (Useendtd fron» the
Alps, wer< brou/jng on the pastnrts, and added to tin animation of the seem ry. 'I'he-
Will being uf the inhabitiiils is visible from tlu- cultivation of the grounds, and from the
nundnr and neatness ol' tiit collages anil larm-honsis uhich are scattered about the fields,
skirted by trees, or hall Conci alrd amid tntt>i of wood.
Thun is distant about twi he miles from Hun,' it occupies the bottom and brow ol
a hill, and stretches on both .^iiUs of the Aar , it contains twelve hundred souls, 1 njoys
considerable immunities, has its own mai^^isirali s and courts <tf justice, in which the bailifl"
from Htrn always presides, and froui whose decision an a|)peal lies to the capital.
The inhabitants employ tlu lusehis in carding .mil spiinnng silk for tlie nu'iufactures of
Basic ; some ol tin. bnrghir-, possvss large herds of cattle.
To the north-east stand, on an rniimiKi, the church, and the castle which is the
residence uf tin b..ililVund occupies tin- higlust point. IVom its windows I enjoyed a
most jileasing and extensile view, not inferior in its kind to any prospect in Swif/Arland.
Underneath is the town, (cjupving both sides t-i die Aar, s'anding in a rich plain of
Easlure, and bounded by a i h.iin of hills, blaik with forests of iii, which extend front
Wvw anel join the Niess, a brown and rugged mountain, that rises rapidly I'rom the edge:
of the lake. 'J'o the east a small ridge covered with vines and trees ; and to the south- east
part of the lake- of Thun, boundee! I)\- hills rising to the mountains and Alps of Lauter-
Lrunnen and Cirinelelwalel, " [)ilcel up to the clouels."
ThciVar How :? from the Kike l)etween two level promontories prettily sprinkled with
trees, on one of which stands the castle of Schadan. 'V\w lowc r parts of this view con •
trasted witli tlu ruggiel tucks and mountains, resemble a jiainting of Clauele by the side,
of a bal\ alor He)sa.
From Tluin I returned about six miles tc^ the vilKi:;e of Ma.ssic, where I (juittcd the
high road, aiul passiel thri)ngh |)leasant thickets of beech and oak, over fields and in-
closures ; the cottages anel haniL ts agi;. eably situated in lawns anel amid clumjis of trees.
In about an hour and a half 1 entered tlu' ro;al which leads from Hern to Lang< nan, and
ascending to the upper part e)f the village of W'orbi', passed an Hgrceablc day with an
amiable Tamil} , who favoured me with a most corelial .iiul polite reception. The view
from their house, which stands in the midst of a field, is not inferior to that from the
castle of Thun ; it commands a rich ineloseel .md well-woodeel country, gently broken
into hid and d.de, and watered by m.my lively stre.nns; the huge white peaks of the
Junglrauliorn, Schreckhorn, and \V'etterhorn, overtopping a hill embrowned with firs.
I in.ide also an excursion to Hiiulilbunk, a village .ibout lour miles from Bern, in
order to examine the tomb of Madame Langhans, a most celebrated woik of Nahl, a
Saxon sculptor. Being employcel in constructing a sepulchre for count d'Erlach, he
was lodged in the house of the clergv man, his particular friend, whose wife, u woman
• Musiiii^LH, luidw.iy bctuiAii IWrn aiid 'I'hiiii, is rriulcrcil meiiiur.iblf in tin; ii!.'liai)p\ t.;c ot'tlii'.
.■i.uhtiy, by ilii: iiss.is-^iiuiiioii dI' i'(.in.rul irLrlaeh, eoiuuiuuilii' ot the BcnK-^v- anuyi ui.d Ion', ct' Hlri-
dclbunk. bee the lulroilueticu.
HHO
COKl'u iUAVRLS IN HW I TZCIl L \ N l>,
«»| uiH'ommoii l» .iiitv, cNjiiail in « liiUI-lud on KiistiT-cvr. Strin k w iih ilu* linu- of her
(liith, ammiitnl \n tin ricdllrrtion >>{' lur Ik iiity, sym|);itliisiii^j uiih llirardi'i.n of her
hiislKtiid, ht' ('uii(U\ivl iiiul liiiishul this :iir< ( tiii^ nu)iuinunt. It i-> |ilu-((! i.. ti. \im\y
nl Uu (hnitli, Mink intt»ili( jkim nu iiUlkf af^ravi, jmd cove rifl wilh two |(>!tliii[^-il'i()r'j.
W h»ii lIusc.iK' t>|A III d .1 gr:i\<'-st'>iic .i)>[)fiirsiis il jiist n nt intf) ihri (.• lr;ictiiris, through
«hiih is hall'ili'iCoMri.d tin- li;;iiii' olu M'oniaii slinhil) veiled with a shrfnid. Shi- is re
pp M nil il ai the monn nt ol till iiMinntion, \\h(H "the jj;ra\c«» an < oinmnndt d t(> ) iold
up the diad ," lur i\\'^\\\. h;ind is !;inl|y raisin;;- that portion ol' the hroktn stoiu- u!iii:h
lies n\ir her h< ad ; and the otiu r holds a naked ini.int .struf;i;linf^ with its little h.iads
lo n liase itsell IVom the tond). "Hire am I, Lonl, and tlu eliild whom thou gavcHl
ine,"» are lh( siiMiim w(»rds w hi( h form tin insiaiption. IK low i^ tlu* nam<t of the
deet.isul, "Anna Ma^nlali n i Lan};hans, \n il'e of ih.; cleri^nnan. Horn I12'>; died
ITal." I'he workmansliip is l>y no means inlirior to the ori^^in.il design ; the .iriist has
lornidl the whiili' sipidehre out ol' one hloik. and so natMi\!l\ i xjiressed the swelling;'
o'the stone, that the Ira^nients seeji\ as il' they had just hurst, and were in the aet ol
opi ning. The only eireumsianet- to he regretted is, that the materials are not so diMa!)!c
as such a moiniment deserves ; hi inpi^ ol' sand stone, they arc loo soli to resist the cfi'ects
of tinu", and t ven now • \hil)it some s\ luptonjs ot'deeaj.
Nothinpi; pirha|)s ean more stron;^'ly display i he superior efVeci of simplicity over maff
nili'i.iee, than the comparison of tliis ton»l) with the mausoleum of count d'ia'lich in
the same church. 'I'lu. mausolciun consistiii)^ of several marhle ligures, ex( cuud in u
ni.isterlj st\le, and lr):i(Ktl with all the emhiems of rank and opulence, scarcely attracts
a niomenuir) attention ; while this simple grave stone " speaks home" to every heart
of taste and feeling.
LKTTKU I.XI.
risit fo Miclidil Sc/iuf)f)ac/i, t/ic Phi/.m'Kin nf Lanffcnau.
iMJij^'t-itfiN, Srptemhor 18.
VOU have heard perhaps of Michael Schuppach, the famous .Swiss doctor; of
whose sagacity in disco\ ering the seat of disorders, and applying suitable remedies, many
wonderful stf>ries are recounted ; and which, like Virgil's I'rogres:, of Tame, have in-
creaiLcl in the marvellous in proportion as ihey receded from the scene of action. I am
now lodged in the house of this celebrated ii''.sculapius : it is situated above the village
of Langenau, on the side of a steep acclivity ; from which circumstai\ce he is generally
styled tlie physician of the mountain.
On our arrival we found the Doctor in his apartment, surrounded by several peasants,
who were considting him ; each having brought with him a small bottle, containing
some of his water; for, by inspecting the urine, this medical sage pretends to judge of
the patient's case. His figure is extremely corpulent; he has a penetrating eye, and
.1 good humoured countenance. He seats himself opposite to the person who consults
him, one moment looks at the water, the next at the [jatient ; and continues ex.unining
alternately the one and the other, whistling occasionally during the intervals. He then
opens the state of the ease, accjuaints the consultant with the nature of his complaints,
and has sometimes the good fortune to hit u|)ou die true cause. \\\ a word, his knack of
discovering disorders by urine, has gained such implicit faith in his skill, that we might
as well (pustion the po))e's iniallibility to a zealous catholic, as die doctor's in the pre-
* Hicr lUrr bin ich ; u:iil das kind, ho du inir ij;<;^;i'bcn liasl. Aa ciiiiji'iuiii','; id' ihis iiiDiHiiiuiit i'
publi'ilicd Ij) 1M. lie Mctln.1 u[ liuslc.
\\\> IV MIA ("ormiRV 01 niK oniaoN/.
1M
• «(t' her
of her
, l)M(ly
-tlnors.
Iiroii^h
K" is ro-
to } iold
which
haitdn
: of the
'. ; dii:(l
•list hiis
>\villin};
II' lift ol
(l<iia!)Ic
c c fleets
\r tnaif
'.r\\rh ill
in (I in ii
attncts
:rv lu.arl
n/wr 18.
lor ; of
s, many
lavi: in-
I am
ic vilhif^c
frcnerally
feasants,
nitaining
judtjc' of
-ye, and
consults
xaniininj;
lie then
in[)laints,
knack of
\vc ini;^ht
llu' \)rc-
■ mnufnt i'
vnci" 01 hi^palnnis. lie has certainly iicrfornMrl ^Lvcral j^rcat cures, and Uk innitMi 'i
thini hiili lji*((ii,;lif pirvju-i Ironi all (|tiaitirsof l'nn»|)c lor hi** advici-.
Tilt' DiX'tor u js lornickly a vilhif^i siirmon, li..sa sii;^Mit kiwnvluj^'c ol anatonn , audi
tf)krably vtrscdin botany and (hinii^lry, Mis aci|n.iint iiuv with tlir tlhorv ol pliyjiiv
is said to Ik- limited ; the j^rcattr part of his knou Ud)^c iKinj; di rivid from Ins i NtciiHi\«
practirc, ihon}.;h he iiivtr stirs a ipiartcr :>( a mlU lioin his own hoiisf ; for he woidd
not take llic tr<jnl)!e df i;oinjj^ to Ucm, even to attend ihc kiii;^ of I'Vaiiiv.
It is more than proltihlc, that much of this I'Xtraordinary man's sncKssis ouinp; to th(
benefit which his paliints receive from chanj^o of cliiD.ite, to the silnbrions air of this
place, and to the amusement arising from the constant su'^xssi^n of cnmpan_\ . Hnt
whatever may have been the causes of his celebrity, it has come to him, as all ac(;oir.its
agree, un'>oiip;ht by himself. lie has certainly many excellent (pialities ; is humane
and charitable to the hij^diest dej^ree, not only furnishes the iiuli};vnt p.-isints \\liocon.
suit him with mtdioines gratii, but generally makes them a present in money bcsirh s,
and always appropriates u certain portion of his gains to the |)oor of his parish. Ili^
wife and grand -daughters are dressi d like the peasant Wf)mcn ol" the ctniiitry, and he lias
shewn his good sense in giving the latter a pi;. in education; the eldest he bestowed in
marriage, when she was but fifteen, upon out of his assistants, and with her l.^»()()l. ; no
inconsiderable portion for this cf)untry. He procured a match for her so larly he said,
to prevent her being spoiled by the young gentlemen telling her that she was pretty,
and ins|)iring her with the ambition of marr\ ing above her rank.
If domestic harmony, and the most ptrlict simplicity of manners, have any preten
bions to please, you would be highly delighted with his rural lamily. The wile is a
notable active woman, and superintends the household allairs with remarkable clever
ness ; she assists her Inisband likewise in preparing his medicines, and, as he talks nn
other language than the German, she serves occasionally as his interpreter. Asa i)roof
of l>is confidence in her administration of his affairs, she acts as his treasurer, and receives
all his fees, which in the course of a year amount to a considirable sum ; for, aithough
he never demands more than the price of his medicines, yet no gentleman consults him
without giving an additional gratuity. She has likewise received many jiresents from
those who have reaped benefit by her husband's priscriptions ; several of these |)rescnts
consist of valuable trinkets, with w Inch on days of ceremony she decks herself to the
best advantage, in the simple dress of the country.
The i'amilv sit down to table reL'idarlv at twelve o'clock ; there are alwavs sonte
strangers of the party, consisting not only of those persons who are under the Doctor's
eare, but of travellers, like ourselves, led by motives of mere curiosity. When the
^veather is fine, atid their guests more numerous than usual, dinner is served in an oinn
shed that overlooks the adjacent country, with a distant view of the Glaciers beyond the
lake of Thun. Yesterday some peasants whom the Docter invited formed part of our
company; after dinner he gave some money to those that sat near him, and ordered
one of his grand-daughters to distribute his bounty to the others. The benevolence o!
the old man, his gaiety and good-humour, the cheerfulness of his family, the gratitude
of the poor peasants, the beauty of the prospect, and the fineness of the weather formed
altogedier a most agreeable and delightful scene ; and I do not remember to ha\e ever
partaken of any meal with a more sensible and heartfelt satisfaction.
This singular man is very often cniplo\ed in giving advice from eight in the morn
ing till six iu the evening, with no other intermission than during tht; time he is at tabic
His drugs iire of the best kind, for he collects the simples, and distils tlu ni himself;
his house, like those of the peasants, is constructed ol wood; and, though tilways full
\oi.. v. .*; I'
ddi.
» iV.vF. o i;;;tl. 1.; is aw n /.Kill. \ N n,
')f ij.(»|.i., i:, i\ ni;tik:il>l\ lu'al uiul clean ; in ^lioit, c;viry tliinij; about liiin hears the ap
jK'iiiMiu:!. !){' ilu pIi.Msiii,^ simifilciiy ol' loniu r a.m",.
I had .ilmosi IwrjroitLii to t*.!! )<)U iliat 1 tioiistiltul him tiiis morninjjj ; lUici have reason
u» he lii,-';lily saiisfud with his pusci ipiioii ; {'ov lie told mc I was in .such j^ood iKaltJj,
lliat the ((lily a(l\iec he hadto;^i\e nic, wwh • l) lai and drink wxlh to dunec, he merry,
and take nKdiratc cMrcisc."'
It is now 1/in^rnan lair, and tlic villaf^c is crowdid wi'h thr ii'. ij^hbonriii!^ peasants
(ireat nnmhers ol ihc men have loni^ hearcK, and many ol'tlkm covtr tlieir heads with
I woman's straw hal, extreme!} broad, wliieii makes a "^rotis'jne appearance ; their dress
is eiiiclly a coarse brown elotli j.akct w illiont sktvcs, with la.i^e pnllld breeches ol
ticking. TIk. wonun, who are remarkably iiandsome, wear tlicir hair jilaited beliind
in tresses, w ith the ribband hanjjjini.!; chnMi Udnw the waist ; a Hat plain straw-hat, which
IS very berominii; ; a n.d or brown clolli jacket wiihout sleeves; u black or l;lne petti-
eoat borderetl with red, andsearcely rcaeliinLj below the knees, red stock iiis^s with l)lacli
•locks, and no heels to tluir shois; their shifts of extremely fine linen, fastened close
round the neck by a black collar w idi red ornaments ; tin better sort have chains of
silver between the shoulders, broui2;ht ronml under each arm, am! fastened beneath tht'
bosom, the i nds han!i;ing down widi silver ornmnents.
1 am so charmed w ith the situation of this villaij^c, the cheerfulness and singularity ol
this rustic and agreeable family, and the uncommon character (jf the humane Doctor,
that I could with pleasure continue here some da}s ; but 1 am pressed for time, and
have 11 long journey before me.
This celebrated empiric died in March 17S1 ; and Latigenau, which I again visited
ill August 178(), was no longer the resort of the sick, the valetudinarian, tiie curious,
and the idle. The Doctor gained b'' his practice 10,0001. ; of which sum his wife re-
ceived a third, and the remainder was distril)uted among his son-in-law and grand-
ehildrcn.
Langenau is situated at the commencement of the Kmmathal, a valley remarkable
for its cultivation and beauty. Ahmy of the farmers are extremely rich ; the people
ctppear in general contented and happ\ ; the wooden cottages scattered about the iields,
arc uncommonly neat and comfortable, and announce, in their appearance, the happy
■.•onditiou of the peasantry.
I !'TTEa LXII.
Vaijertu:.>..Muuiliin....(jvtuvn.,..C(ilvin.
Geneva, Srpt. (i.
I TO(JK leave of my friends at Langenau, in order to proceed to Avignon: where
I am going to pay a visit to the Ai)be de S.ide, author of the interesting memoirs of the
life of Petrarch. Monsieur de Vigur, a senator of Soleure, offered mc a place in his
carriage to Bern, as my principal object in travelling is to acquire intelligence, I gladly
embraced this opportunity of leading my worthy and well-informed companion into a
conversation, not only concerning die government of Soleure in particular, but in rela-
tion also to Switzerland in general, and 1 found him exceedingly well-disposed to answer
the several (juestions he allowed me to propose.
The next day I repassed through Morat and Avenches, and slept at Paycrne, a town
HI the canton oi' Bern, which enjoys considerable privileges. Upon the bridge over the
Brove is an ancient Roman inscription.
A V n I V 1 If r (• () I' ■; "i n v o i ni r ,ni .; d \ ..
hb:.
rn the i\i'
»vc reason
'h\ health,
he mtrry,
peasants
K'ucls with
ihrir dress
eeches ol
Lcl heliind
lat, wliich
jhic petti-
ivith black
Liied close
chiiiiis ol"
cneath the
gularity ol
le Doctor,
time, and
;aiii visited
le curious,
lis wile re-
md grand-
remarkable
the people
, the iiclds,
the happy
a, Sept. (i.
ion : where
iioirs of the
>!acc in his
X, I gladly
mion into a
but in rela-
d to answer
me, a town
lie over the
-Moudon is a handj^omc town, the principal bur^h of the bailliar^c, and Ibtnicrly the
;a[)ilal ol'all lliat part crtiie I'ays dc X'aud, \i liicii beIon<r( rl to the duk'' of Savoy. It
w as the ordinary rosidcnce of his (\\k[ baiiilV, and the place where the states were arru'.-
tonied to nKet. The ixiililV aj)iiointcd liythi sovereign council of Hern resides in tlic
castle of Lucens, built upon the sununit ofa niotuitain, in a situation e\<'ct(ling!v pictu-
res(jue ; it Ibrnierly belons^^d to tlic bish(i])',rjt' L,ins:uine, and was one ol" thi-ir iavouriic
seats, before the refonuaiion was introduc.d mlo tliis cunilry.
Geneva lies upon the narrowest part of the lake, w here the lllione issues in two large
and ra;)id streams, which soon afterwards iniite. Tliat rivi r separai s the c-ity into two
unequal divisions, reciives tiie muddy Arve in its course, and Hows liirou^gh I'ranre into
the ^lediterranean. The adjacent country is uncommoiil}- pictiu\ s(|ue, and ;!b(,iuiuls in
magnificent views: the several objects which compose this enchanting prospect arc the
town, tlie lake, the numerous hills and mountains, particularly the Saleve and the Mole,
rising sudcli.nly from the plain .'■ j variety of fantastic forms, backed 1)\- the glaciers oi
Savoy, witluheir froze n toi)s glistening in ;he sun, and the ni:ijeslic Moni P^laiic rearing
its head far above the rest.
Gene\a, u!iic:ii stands parti}- in the plain upon the liorders of the lake, and p.-rtly uj)on
a gentle ascent, is irregularly built ; the houses are liigh, and many in the trading part:
of the city have arcadi s of wood, which are raised even to ilie upper siories. These
arcades, supported by pillars, give a gloomy apijearance to the street ; but are useful to
the inhabitants in protecting them from the sun and rain. It is by far the most po])ulous
town iu Switzerland, and contains 24,(;()0 souls. 'J'his superiority of mmibers is un
doubtedly owing to the great industry and activity of the inhaliitants, to its extensive
commerce, to the facility of purchasing the burghershi|), and to tl\e privileges which
government allows to all foreigners, i-jie memljtts of this city are distinguished into
eitiiiensand burgesses, inhabitants and nati\( s."^' 'I'iie citizens and burgesses are aloiv>:
admitted to a share in the government ; the inlnl/itants are strangers allowed to settle in
the town with certain jiriv ileges, and the natives are the sons of lliose in'na!)itants, who
possess additional advantages ; the two last classes form a large niLsjority (jf tlie people.
The liberal i)olicy of this gcivernment in receiving straniMs and conferring the
burghership is more rem rkable, as it is contrary to ih:- spirit ami usage of the Swiss.
It is here indeed mori' necessary, the territory of lliis state being -,0 exceedinglv small,
thar its very cisttnce depends upon the number a.id industry of the people; i'or, ck-
chisivcofthe city, there are scarcely 16,000 souls m the whole di:,triet of die Genevois.
The rLformed doctrines first preached at Geneva in L)j3 In' William I'arel, a native
of Gap i.i Dauphine. and Peter \ iret of Orbe, owed their final eslablisliiuenl to Johu
Calvin, whowas!>orn at Noyon in 150U, and b<.ing driven from I'rance !)y the persecu-
tions which Francis the First raised against the protestants, made liis iirst aiMJearanee ia
this city in 15.T>.
Zuingle, CKcoIan^.padius, and Mailer had reformed the greater part of Switzerlaiul
some years before that period; but Calvin has given his n'une to tiie seetari-.s of the
reformed religion, in die same manner as tlie new continent took its ap-o. Uatifjii from
Americus Ves])ucius, notwithstanding die origin;;! discoverv was made bv Columijiis.
Although Calvin was not the lirst reformer of GeiK% , yet, as he gave'str<;ngth and
solidity to the new establishment, and hninded die ecclesiastical foian of gov., riiinuit, he
» Since the liitf n volution hi 17,SJ, tl.irc is a fii'tli class, cuHofl doiuuUk' ' '
MuigisUMlfb un iiniMUil pcriiilshion to rcnuau in the city.
5 u
w Uu
li'O'l:
HH'l
lOXEs Tii.wiii.;; IN swn zr.RL.i Ni),
totally eclipsed the fame of his friend William Farel, who scattered tlic first seeds ol
vcrorniati(jii. In truth, st) great was the ascendency wliich Calvin, allhoui!;h a foreigner,
acijuirid ovrthe citizens, that he possessed considerahle iiidiience even in civil matters,
and hore a lar<ji;e share inseitlinj^ the political constitution. Conscious that religion de-
rives support from every branch of knowledge, ' liberally promoted the cultivation of
science, and the study of elegant literature. T^ nis end, as well as to encourage theo-
logical erudition, he prevailed upon government to establish a iiublio academy ; I)Ut with
singular disinteresiedness declining the cHer of being perpetual president, he obtained
l.'iat otlice for his friend and fellow-la'/ourer Theodore Bei^a. hi diis new seminary
Calvin, with Theodore Reza, and his other colleagues, eminent for their superior know-
ledge, rtad lectures, with such uncommon reputation and success, as attracted students
from all (piarters.
There is such a striking splendour in the brighter parts of this celebrated reformer's
character as to render us, at first glance, almost insensible to those dark spots which in
some instances obscure its glory. IJut when wc reHect on his asperity and arrogance,
and, above all, on the cruel persecution of Servetus, we cannot but lament, that he did
not rise superior to the intolerant principles of the age, which, in all other instances, ho
ill Iped to enlighten. \\'ith regard to his intolerant principles, it must be acknowledged,
that the same uncharitable spiri* prevailed also among many of the most celebrated rc-
ibrmers, who unaccountably conceived, in opposition not only to the rcnius but to the
clearest precepts of the gospel, that persecution for conscience' sake, although unchris-
f.ian in every other ecclesiastical establishment, was justifiable in their own.
'lUe republic of Geneva is at present the most tolerating of all the reformed states in
Switzerland ; being the only governmeni in this country which permits the public exer-
cise of the Lutheran religion. In this respect the clergy, no less wisely than suitably
ro the spirit as well as the letter of Ute Christian revelation, have renounced the principles
>f their great patriarch Calvin, alihough they still hold that able reformer in high vene-
ration ; yet they know how to distinguish his virtues from his defects, and to admire the
)ne *vithout being blindly partial to the other. I am, &c.
LETTER LXIIL
On the Literature of Geneva.
TO a man of letters Geneva is particularly interesting; learning is divested oi pe
Jantry, and philosophy united with a knowledge of the world ; the pleasures of society
are mixed with the pursuits of literature, and elegance and iirtjanity give a zest to the
profoundest disquisitions. Nor are letters conllned in this city merely to those who
engage in them as a profession, or to those whose fortune and leisure enable them to
follow where genius leads. Even the lower class of people are exceedingly well ui-
formed, and there is perhaps no city in Europe where learning is more universally dif-
fused. I received great satisfaction in coiiversing even with several tradesmen upon
topics both of literature and politics ; and was astonished to find in this class of men, so
uncommon a share of knowledge. But the wonder ceases, when we are told, that all
nf them were educated at the public academy, where the children of the citizens arc
taught, under the ipiipection of the magistrates, and at the expence of government.
One circumstance in this seminary particularly contributes to excite the industry and
f mulation of the students ; prizes are annually distributed to those who have distinguished
■JuntJielves in each class. These rewards, consisting of small medals, are conferred with
'WD IN IJII. COUNIKY OI i \1 K r.r.ISONS.
88.)
such solemnity ;is ciuinot fail of producinijj great cflcct. A jcarly mcc"li;i,i^(jf all the
niagisstnucs, professors, aiul principal inliabitantrs, is hold at the cathedral, u hen tin Tum
syndic hiuisili' distributes, in the niost public manner, the honorary retrilintions. I nn t
this riiornint^' one of the scholars, and, seeing his medal, inquired its meanint^. " Jc la
portc," replied the boy, scarcely tight years old, "parce quej'ai fait mon devoir." I
ref[uired no stronger proof to convince me of the beneficial intluence upon young minds,
from these encouraging and judicious distinctions, thtui appeared from this sprightly
specimen. The citizens enjoy the advantage also of having free access to the public
library ; and by this privilege not only retain but improve that general tincture of learn-
ing which they imbibe in their early youth.
The public library owes its origin to Ronnivard, prior of St. Victor, who was twice
imprisoned for having asserted i.gainst the dukes of Savoy the independence of Geneva,
and who considered the h.ardships he had suffered, and the perils he had escaped, as ties
that endeared him more strongly to a city w hich he had adopted as his own. He was a
principal promoter of the reformation by gentle means and gradual instruction. He
closed his benefactions to his beloved city by the gift of his valuable manuscripts and
books, and by bequeathing his fortune towards the establishment and support of the
seminary. His worki, which chiefiy relate to the history of Geneva, arc preserved with
that care and reverence due to so eminent a benefactor.
The library contains twenty-five thousand volumes, and many curious manuscripts,
of which an accurate and learned catalogue has been lately published by the Reverend
M. Sennebier the librarian. He has attempted to determine the ages of the several
manuscripts; he describes their form and size, the materials on whicli they are written,
the ornaments, the characteristic phrases, and mentions the proofs on which he grounds
his opinions ; he adds the notes, and distinguishes those which have never been printed.
Seimebier has also favoured the world with " Histoire Litteraire de Geneve," accom
panied widi biographical anecdotes of those natives who have been celebrated for their
learning. As I should trespass too much on your time if I were to attempt sending yon
an account of the principal men of letters in Geneva, I shall confine myself to those only
with whom I am personally acquainted.
Charles Bonnet was born in 1720. His life has been devoted to the pursuits of lite
rature, and to the improvement of philosophy and science. He has proved I^y his publi
cations, that his indefatigable industry in starching into the phenomena of tiie crcatioi;
is equalled only by his ingenuity in cxj)laining them. His works, printed at Neuchutcl,
form nine volumes in quarto, or eighteen in octavo, and contain divers subjects of natu-
ral history, many accurate observations on insects, on the vegetation of plants, considera-
tions on organised bodies, and the contemplations of nature. By several treatises, and
particularly his Analytical Essay on the Faculties of thr Soul, he has shewn himself an
acute metaphysician. Like his friend Hallcr, he has also stood forth an able advocate for
die great principles of natural and revealed religion. His * Philosophical Researches on
Christianity, and his treatise on the Existence of God, prove, that an intimate knowledge
of nature necessarily tends to establisli a rational belief of those great truths. I had fre-
quent opportunities of conversing with this respectable philosopher ; though now in the
sixty-sixth year of his age, he possesses an uncommon degree of vivacity and animation,
still retains his enthusiasm for the pursuits of science, and speaks with the same perspi-
cuity and elegance as are observable in his writings.!
* A trausliition of liis Ktchcrchcs IMiilosophiciucs sur Ics Prcuves du Christiunismc has been given
to tlic puLlit by John Lewis Uoissicr, Esq. under tlic title of " Philosophical iind Critical Inquiries
conccniinsj Chrisliuuity." t Uoinicl died sin*.^ the publicutiua of tlic hist ediuou.
8«(i
c. 0 A n 5 in A V £ I, ry in '6\\ t izlrl a n n ,
I was II') 1' ss anibiuous of Ixing known to his nephew dc Saussurc. Born in 1740,
he was clcciid professor of plulosf)phy in 17(t2, and has ^ivc ii to tin; pnblic numerous
speeiinensof his indi.fati.naljle industry, and of liie versitili^y of his talents: he has made
various remarks autl experiments on niicro->eopie ar.inials, ofjservations on electricity, on
basaltic 'avas and \(jieanic pr')dueti:>ns, on the pliysie.;il f^eop;raphy of Italy, fie has
invented an in^trl!nuJU for ineasiirini;- the degnes oi' mat^netic force, and so much an-
provi (1 the elreironicli i of('ia\aIIo, that it m;i) be ahnoht considered as a new instrument,
lint above all, his invention nf tlie liairij^ruinLier, for nie.isin'in,;; the moisture of the at-
mosplure, has enabled hin\ to make many theoretical aiid exjiirimental researches that
an- t!ei ;iKd in Kssai sur l'lly|j,ru;uLtre. And althouj^h a controversy subsists between
liini and de I.uc, e^Miei rniiiji' the propii* t} of h tir for l!>is purpose, yet it cainiot depre-
ciate this in\enii(jii,and new l''i;hi'^ mu.-.t be ihrov.n on thai sui)jvet by the opposition oi
two surh a.ble naturalists.
His \'oyas;'es cKiiis les Alpcs, of wliich tu'o^ volumes in rpiarto have made their ap-
pearance, trtat ol the physical :^eoL;rapliy of the Alps, the formation of mountains, the
orii;in of the glaciers, and varKuis phenomena of nature, which peculiarly distin,L^uisll
Switzerland, Unlike some j)liilosophers of the present age, who from their cabinet, and
with no other knouled;^e of the eartli than wh it is aecpiired by books, perempuirily and
presmviiitnously decide on llu' theory of the globe; this indefatigabie observer draws
from repeated excursion and incessant ex|)erience a iund (jf facts, which may enable him
to comi>leie the great design and object of all his researches, that of establishing a more
perlVct tin or} of the earth.
The cabinet of Saiissurc is an object uorlhy of the traveller's curiosity; it contains u
collection oi' foreign and Sw iss buiierllies, various i)etrifaclions and fossils, more parti-
cularly a large variety of basalts and v(jleanic productions, numerous specimens ol' gra-
nites and other primitive stones, collected during hi.-^ various exjjeditions, and from parts
which have been only visiletl In himsilf. .Saussure has lately resigned die professorship
of experimental pliilosophy, ai.d is succeeded by my very worthy and ingenious friend
M. Pietet Turreiini, who has already distinguished himself by various publications,
which < lucidate several import. ait branches of exptrimental philosophy.!
Paul Henry Mallet, born at Gene\a in 1730, passed the earlier part of his liie at
Copenhagen as preceptor to the presi-iit king Christian the Sixth. His introduction to
the history of Denmark, under the title f)f N<a'.hern Antiquities, proves him a profound
and accurate anii(juar} , and his Histories (;f Hesse, Bruiiswic, and Denmark, shew him
no less eminent as an historian. I should on this occasion be umnindful of the honour
conferied on me, if I omittetl to menii(Mi, that his latest work is a translation of my I'ra-
vels into Poland, Russia, Sweden, and Denmark, to which he has added m.my remarks,
and a Journey into Norway,
De Luc, reader to the (jueen of Oreat Britain, and resident in Fingland,is also a n itixc
ofGeneva. He was born m 17^7, and published in 1772 his celebrated work on the
liKxlilieation of the atnu^sphere, and on the theory of baromueis and thermometers; a
peri'orniance which marks a distinguished ;cra in the hisior} of experinu inal phili);'Oj)hy,
and which he continued vindcr the title ol Ideessur la Meteorologie. But in iiisLettres
Physiques ei .Morales, sur i'Hiitoire de la IVrre et de I'Honune, de Luc appears to singu-
lar advantagv. In this learned performance, he display s a most extensive knowledge of na-
* TIk" tliii'ci laici ) .11 !i Ikiv iiiin siiu-.c priiucd.
t S-.uissuiv 'iir I ' 1 1 /■•'.) Si iiiH l)ii 1', thf ini;,fnious avilhor oi' Ilisiulix: Litt lidre do Cjciieve, h.is
pulilibhtd an i.i>>",uiiv al 'a' .uuir on liis lilc and wriiins^s.
ANiJ I^f lilt: rot'vrKv lii' iiir. cmsons.
■sb:
the
cure, and applies it, ^vitll t;rc;it s:'|,M(il\ in lonniiiL!: ii iiMv theory of the earth, ami in a
happv ace()mmtKl;;ii(jn of his livpoihi vs to the Mosaie aec'OMiit, of the ereatiou.
The cabinet ol" ik- hue is iiol'oiily leniarkaltlc lor th^' imnilK-rancl rarit\ of many spiei
mens; Inil nusc partieularlv elainis the alti.ntif>n of the naturalist, a-> a sys'eniatic col-
ketion, tendii.;;- to ilhi'.tratc "his ill-, ory of the kIoIk'. With this view it may he divided
intothive prineipal part^i : tlic fir.->l eonlains pLtrifaelinns and fossils ; the second stones,
and die third lavas and volcanic productions. Tiie first part is arranL,ad in such a num
ne.-, under three distinct heads, as may enable the naturalist, 1. To comjjare the petn
factions of animals and vcj;cial)les withth.c same l)odi( s, whicli are still known to exist in
our parts of the f^lobe ; 2. To compare those petrifactions of anitnals^ and ve!j;i.tal)les
with the same bodies which are known to exist in distant countries ; Cu 'I'o consider the
petrifactions of those l)odies which are no lon;j;er known to exist. The second pan
comprehends the stones under three points of view: 1. 'I'hosc of the primiiive nif)nii
tains which contain no animal bodies; 2. Those of the secondary mountains which
contain only marine bodies; 3. Those whi( h contain terrestrial bodies. In the third
part, the lavas and other volcanic productions are distinguished into, U Those irom
volcanos now in a burning state ; 2. Those from extinct volcanos. I am, &.c.
LKTTr.U LXIV.
Ciovcrumcut ufGctivvu in 1776.
THE city and territory of Geneva were formerly united to the German empire, under
tlie successors of Charleniagnc ; but as the powir of the emperors, fcei)leeven inGer
many, was still weaktr in the frontier provinces, the I)ishops of Geneva, like odur great
vassals of the empire, gradualU acciuired very considerable authority over the citj
and its domains, which' tlw empiror had no other means of counterbalancing than
by increasing the hberti s of the people. During these times of conrusion, con-
stant disputes sub^isted between the bishops and the ctnuits of the Genevois, wlio,
although at their first institution consi<kred as vassals of the bishops, yet claimed a
right to die exclusive administration of justice. The cili>uns took advantage of tliese
qiiarrcls, and, by siding oeeasionaily with each party, obtained an extension of theii
pr'vi leges from both.
But' the bou^e of Savoy h.iving purchased the Genevois, and succeeded to all the
nrtrogativcb of the counts, witli addinonal power; the bishoi)s and the people un;ted
-m opp<Jse encroachments, which were no less ()rejudicial to the authority of the one
than to the libtrtks of the others. During this period, the respective pretensions of
the counts, bishops, and citizens f(jrmed a government ecjually singular and compli-
cated. The kirnion} , however, between the bishops and citizens was at length broken
by the ;fftful niiinagement of the counts of S.iVfn-, who had the adehess to procure the
episcopal see fur their brodiers, and even ixar their illegitimate childivn. By these me-
thods their power in tlie city so much increased, that, towards the commencement of
thi sixteenth ceiiturv, Charles ihe Tliird, duke ot Savoy, obtained an almost absolute
authority over the citiz* ns, and ( xereised it in an unjust and arliitrary manner. Hence
arose perpetual struggles between the duke and the citizens, and two parties were formed;
the zealots for libert} were called eidgenossen, or coni'ederates, while the partisans oi
the duke were branded with the appellation ui mamnielues, or slaves.
The treaty of alliance, which the tovvr contracted with Bern and Friburgb, in 1526
may be cunsidered as the true wra of its iudepeiid«nK-t for, the duke was soon itftc;
\
■M
HSH
(. OXL J I f A\ !.l.
; N
.\. \ I .,kr;. v.v, k),
deprived of liis uutlioiity, the bishop (hivcii I'rotn the city, a rcpublio.m torm of p;o
\crMnu'nt tbtablishcd, and tht- aionnaiiun iiitrodiit.'cd. rrom this lime, Charles and
his huccessors wafted inccssatit war ajj^ainst (Icneva ; but his efforts were renderf.d inef-
fectual by the intrepid bravery of the citizens, and the assistance of IV.rn.
In 1581 Cieneva conchided a trtaly of jjerpelual alli.uicc with Zuric and Bern, by
which it forms i):irt of the lichetic confederacy.
The last attemju of the house of Savoy at^ainst Geneva, was in 1G02 ; ^vhen Charles
I'jiianucl treacherously attacked the town dminii; a profound peace. Tsvo himdred sol-
diers sc^aled the walls in thenij^ht, while the inhabitants reposed in unsuspectini^ securi-
ty ; but bein<;- timely discovered, \\ere repulsed by tht desperate valour of a few citizens,
who i^Ioriously sacrificed their lives in defence of their country. As a tribute of public
gratitude, these braxe Clenevans were buried with jrreat ponip, and their names re-
corded on a sepulchral stone. In niem<iry of this event, some of the scaling-ladders,
by which the enemy entered the town, are preserved in the arsenal, and the petard,
which was fastened to one of the fixates, when the jrunner was killed before it could be
discharged. The war occasioned by this perfidy was concluded in the following year by
a solemn treaty : since that period, uninterrupted peace has been maintained between
the house of Savoy and Geneva ; although the king of S.irdinia did not till 1751, formal-
ly acknowledge the independence of the republic.
Peace was no sooner concluded with the house of Savoy, than the sparks of civil
discord, so apt to kindle in popular governments, and which had been smothered by
the apprehension of a foreign enemy, again burst forth. During the greater part of
the last century to the present period, the history of Geneva contains little more than a
narrative of contentions between the aristocratical and popular parties, and Uieir strug-
gles were occasionally exerted with so much animosity, as to threaten for a moment,
a 'jjif'A revolution in the state ; but, have been hitherto compromised without producing
any fatal effects.*
The power of the great council in 1707, was restrained by an edict, decreeing thai
very five years a general council of the citizens and burghers should be summoned to de-
liberate upon the aftlurs of the republic. Agreeably to this law, a general assembly
being convened in 1712, the very first act exerted by the people in their collective ca-
pacit}-, was the abolition of the above edict.
In consequence of this extraordinary repeal, the power of the aristocracy continued
increasing till within these i'cw years; when the citizens, by a singular conjunction of
favourable circumstances, joined to an uncommon spirit of union and perseverance,
procured several changes in the constitution of Geneva ; by which the authority of tht
magistrates has been limited, and the rights of the people enlarged. Hajipy if they
know where to stop ; lest, by continuing to extend the bounds of their own privileges,
and by too much restraining the power of the magistrates, they sh:ike the foundation of
civil government.
The present constitution of Geneva, may be considered as a mean between that of
the aristocratical and popular cantons : more democratieal than any of the former, as
the sovereign and legislative authority reside in the general assembly of the citizens;
more aristocratical than the latter, because the powers vested in die great and little coun-
cils arc very considerable.
* Tiic iCculcv will ncollrrt that tliis Utter was written in 1770, b« fore the revolution of 1782,wliirh
is related in the .".uliseiiiient letter. See an excellent narrative, ut ilii se iiitesiine eoinnioiions, ami ol
the gradual change from an aristocratical to a popular form of i^overnineni, in IManuV History of t!ie
Helvetic Confederacy, chap. is.
.\ ND IN i HE ( Of:. I 1' ■. i i 1 .1 t.
;i(i\i.
HH9
ihc iiK'mbi !s ()(' the scinitc, (\ l/ittU- C'diinfil ol'twiDls Iiv, t njoy ni ilif ir corjui-
rate cnp.'i'ity '>i vcnil prciotraiivcs, nimcist i:i\\>u\ in tlioM' |)i>ssi'ssr(l by ilir most ;;risto
rmtical st;ilts. 'i'luy iKJiuiiiitc hnlf tlw nKiubiis of tin- <.lir.it (.'onncil, mi[;j)1_, ih.
l)riiu:ii);il ni'.ij^isl rales (Voni ilvAr own b xly, c(;iiiV();;(,' \Ur (ia;it Coiiiicii ttnj tin. (iciu-
ral Cdiincil, and [>rfviotis!} <K libirau upon * v; ry (|(icstlou laid l;i. (ore tlu'i': C(juiiri!s ■
ill other words, in thi.iii is lodged th ■ [MiWvi-of |)ro|.(.slii}';; ( fjiisnuicnf!} as cwry afi
intisl ori'^iiiati- iVomth.in, no law can pass w Uhoiit thi iiappiol'aiiun. In this scn;U' !•<
vested also thr chiel'cNf culive po\\er ; the adiuinistcii'in of Uir litiaiice;,, aiid, to a
certain di;^'rec, jurisdiction in civil and eiimiiKil eaust s. The} noniiiiate, to n^r.^i ot
the smaller po:-,ts or<^o\ ernment ; and i njov th.' same piivilej.(e oreonl'Triiip; tlu Ijnn.jh-
trship. 'l'h(v compose, in C'lnjunction with ihirtv li\e numbers, chos(,u by them
sclv'.s, the Secret Council, which never a>sv nibles bntoutheir convocalioi», and onh
ujion cNtraordin.iry occasions.
Tlicse prcfo;;ulivts, honwcr, arc conntcrbalanc<xl as well by the piivileges of tii
Great Comicii, as b} the IV^ini hiscs of llieCuiieral Council. The priviK{>;es of t!ic
Great Council consist in t hoosing tlic members of the senate from their own bi^ly, in
rccci\ini; aj^jnals in all causes al)oVe a certain vahit, in jiardonisij.^" criniirais, indispos
in|^ orUie most impc^rtant charges (jI' j:;oAernment, cxcipt those whieh are (onrcrrcd
by the Ge:ier>il Council, and in aj)pro\in!^ or rejeclinj.^ whatevi i- is pi^oposed by tin
senate to be laid bclo.e the people.
The (Viur.il Council, or asscn\bly of tiie people, is composed (il" tlu" citiscns and
burghers of the town; their number on an average amoinns to about 1,500, but se!
di>m more that; 1200 meet at the same time ; the remainder being citiuvsettli d in fo
reign countries, or absent. I ought to lui\e CNpUiined to you sooner, the distinction
between citizens and burglu rs : the bu;ghcrs arc cither the sons (>f citizens or burghers,*
born out of Geneva, or have obtained tlie burghers!. ip b}- purcha«;c ; the citizens are
tile sons of citi;icns or btu'gluis, born in the to\c!i. The Inu-ghers may be ch.o.sen
into the council of two hundred, but the citij^eus alone can cuter into the scnat^a an.cl
possess the charges appropriated to that body.
The Cieneral Couneii meets twice u year, chooses the prtncipaj magistrates, approVi -.
or rejects the laws ^nd ngnlations proposed by the counciiri, i:nposvS taxcb, contnict^
alliances, dec lares war or peace, and riOn\in;it< s half of the membi rs in the (ir..al
Council. All (pK stions are decided b\ the majority of voiirs ; and ea' h nuni!?e:. t!c!i
vers his vole w iduul ha\ ing thi. liberl} ofd-butiiig. 'I'he rtsiriclion is cutainly rea-
sonable: lor, in a popular assonbly, like this of Cnncva, comi'Osi d of citii'-vris, tjvj
meanest of \\lu)n\ is wtll ver.sed in the cvjns'iuuion of th.e commonw ■. a'lii, ai.d v.liere
the people in general h;!\e a strong projjerjsily to enter into political distu -sions ; il\ ver\
voter was puaviitted to suj'port and enU)rce his ojiinion by argunRnl, tht re Avn,;ld !;■
no end ol debate, and the \\holc time would be consumed in petulaiit declamation.
But the principal cluck lo tlic authority of the senate, ari^s from the riidit <f re-
election, or die power of ;innually cxpi lling four nieinbirs from the m iut-. at the no-
mina'ion ofthe four smkUcs, and fiomdie prlviK;^' of reprt seiU.ition. 'I"'v riglit o!
re-ekclion was ot;tained by i'n edict of theCieneril Council in 17G.S, and i> thus exer-
cised. From eight senators appohitedby tlte senau aiid apprf.ivi.^l by t!ieCire;;t C ouu
cii, the General Council ;innn.!ll\ choo!-;e the four syndics. Hut shoidd the (ieii> mI
Council rejt:( 1 the eight candid. ilrs, aiid all the other S'.nators who arc ^Meccssiv^.i^ pre
scnted toll.eni, four meUibersof the (ireat (.'(;uneil <jccup}- their i)l;iCes.
* Tiie ciuldrch of Ihosr wht; ;e.T rr-ii^k'Vtel in fi.-nit!;!! cmmuics, in ;li< <i,'rw.<' t-l '1".' -t.i'.t. ;,!
tlu)'i,-li I.Liin (Hit of (ienuvii. aw ti.Mn! u, ..'I ilu privili ;;t.M)t ■■ttii'.-ir
vol.. V. T •••
«{••(-
io:<F. 3 iKAvrrs in ;;\vi rzF.nLANn,
\\"i.\\ iiii|Xct to ilu- Mcond restraint upftii the power of the seivitc, t!ic fjpht oi re
present itiou ; every cU'ueii or l)iirj;lur luis the privilej^e of applying- to the senate in
ordii to procure n new regulation, or of uiu<'nstriiiiiif^ ai^-iinst any act of the m if^i*,-
frac}. 'i in sc representations have, perhaps, provnl one ofthe principal me.iHs of sc-
eurln;^ the liberties of thf people from the inf roachnients of ihv two count ils ; tin.
nuigistrattsare ol)li{^e(l to }i;ive an explicit answer to these n presentations ; for, if the
first is not consic' -rd ^ satisfactory, a second renionstranee is presented. Ate rdnip
to the natine and nice ofthe eomplaint, the representatiun is made by a greater
or less iiundnr ol .s, and it has sometinus happen* d, that each remonstrance
has been nceonipanKvi tn' several hundred, in different bodiis.
The s:ilarit s of the niaj^istrates aie so inconsiilcrablc, as not to offer any temptation
of pecuniny enujlunient : a sinse of honour, a spirit of prc-c\uincnce, the desire of
serving their etiiuitry, t<;getln r with that jjersonal credit w hich is derived from an office
in the administr.ition, are the piincijial motives which actuate the candidates to solicit
a share in the magistracy. Accordingly, the j)ublic posts are gencr.iUy filled by men
ofthe first abilities, and ofthe most rcsjuct.ble characters. The revenues of govern-
n\ent, at the highest ealrulition, scarcely amount to .^0,000 pounds a year; a sum,
flow ever, which, by a well regulated economy, is more than sufficient to defray the
current expences.
Jt is very remai kable that, in a republic so free as Geneva, and where the true prin-
-iplcs of lifjcrty are generally understood, there should be no p»ecise code of penal law;
for, although the form ofthe prosecution is settled, yet the trial ofthe criminal is pri-
\aie, and the punishment left to the decision of the magistrate. Nor arc the franchises
of the people ascertained with that accuracy which might Ik' expected. Under Ademar
Fabri, bishop of Geneva in the fourteenth century, a certain number of political regu-
lations, both civil and criminal, together w ith several particidar customs and franchises,
were drawn up in form, and the bishop took a:i oath to observe them, 'ihcse statutes,
if they may be so called, were confirmed by Amcdus the Eighth, duke of Savoy.
This code, to which the people appeal in all cases of controversy, is compiled in a very
inaccurate and confused manner, and the magistrates refuse to submit to its authority,
because it was published before the independence of the n public was confirmed. The
people have repeatedly demanded a code of municipal and penal laws, so express, as
•ro prevent the arbitrary decision ofthe mtigistnite, and although such a code was or-
dered in 1738 and 1768, yet the compilation lias been hitherto deferred.
The code of civil law is the most perfect part of the constitution ; all matters con-
txrning commerce lieing well-regulated, and private property securely guarded. It is
unnecessary to trouble you with a particular detail of tlie sumj)tuary laws which nearly
resemble those in most otlier states of Switiu^rland, where the jcstrictions of that kind
are enforced. But there is one law, relating to bankrupts, too singularly severe not to
be mentioned : if a member of either council becomes a bankrupt, he is immediately
degraded, and from that moment rendered incapable of holding an\ post under go-
vernment, until he has discharged all the just demands of his creditors ; even his
children are subjected to the same disgrace ; and no citizen can exercise any public
employment, wliile the dibts of his father remain mipaid.
In this city, I's in all the other principal towns of Switzerland, a public granary is
established. Magazines of this kind, useful in all states, are more particul.irly neces-
sary in so populous a place as Geneva, which if the neighbouring powers were to pro-
hibit the exportaticMi of corn, might be exposed to famine. The corn is dried by
means ofiiigenious machines, auci retailed to the inn-keepers and bakers ; a c(;nsidera
\i) i.\ ir(E (OUNTRV oi- iJii; riiisoN;,.
.•<!♦,
tile prolU uccriicv. lo |ijo\ eminent, aiul there is always in case (jf ikccssiU, it •jUflicicri'
quantity in nscrvc to .support the inhaljitantschirinj^a year and an half.
Geneva i:^ Mtronj^Iy f'oi tilted on die side ol Savoj , and a f^arrison eonsfantly muintilnrd ;
IjuI these tortifications, and thib garrison are only suHieicnt to j^nard them Srotn any siid
den attaek, and eould not be long defended against u regular siege. Tl^e gr<at sicnriiy
of the republic consists in its alliance with the Swiss cantons, by means of Zurie and
Bern : as it is the ii\terest bodi of tlie kings of France and Sardinia to i)e it; friendship
with the Ssvi'jS and to pri serve the indeperidence of Geneva ; it derives its grc atest secui it\
from a circumstance which, in some cases, would be the source of dangtr ; namely, it-
vicinity to the dominions of such powerful neighl)ours.'^ Geneva is the only rtpnljli(
•n Switzerland, which ha'^ no regular companies in any foreign service. f 1 am, &.c.
LETTKR LXVHI.
Como.,„Mi'ndrtsto,,..L(ikr of Comn....Plinimia,...F<)rt of Furntn....lM[^hetto di Chia
vcnna.... Entrance into the coiintrij of the Orisons.
DEAR SIR, Chiavcnvoy Jtilij 2\, 1779.
SINCK I travelled over part of Switzerland, I have been desirous to make a tour
through the remainder of that country, particularly to visit the Grisons ; and I slull
now ti.ke the opjiortunity of indulging my curiosity, and propose to myself the s:(ti,sfac
tion of continuing to send you, on this as on the former occasion, my observations and
remarks.
I quitted Milan last week, and proceeded through a gently riling country, well
wooded and fertile in corn and vims, to Como. This town being distinguislied by tlu
birth of Pliny the younger, the inhabitants liaK plm i d his statue in a niche on the out-
side of the church, with a Latin inscription bcidinfj ll(u <)iite of H99. I need not re
mind you, with how much rapture and enthusiasm Miny id'I'Uons the delightful situ.i-
tion of his native town, and the romantic scenery of the ehvinins, in those letters oi
which you have given to die public so aeeiinite and i)e|^i|)ii a |riins|ation.
Como is indeed njost pleasantly situated, til l| IMffMW VUp «;|)(:|osed by hills, upon
the southern extremity of abrantiful lake; it is H\U\^\\\\\\][\\ \)) a will flanked with |)ic-
turesque towers, and backed by aeoijj';/| i minenee, 0(| <i|)|<)i stands the ruins of an an-
cient castle. The houses are neatly built oj s('/||(; j ;t/|(J (|(i; e Jtli<dral is a handsome edi
ficc of white marble, hewn fiom the (K'lghboiirJMf^ yt(i|^j-jli/. '( (| i ' m\^ have estab-
lished several manufactories of cotton and si Ik, nii/feiirri ' 111' rr.id< .nh the Grisons.
From Como I made an excursion to iMendrisib, ml ■ i \\ illan bailliiges Ixlong-
mg to thej twelve cantons of Switzerlantj. These bai||i i/.v formed part of the Mila.
nese, and in 1512 were ceded to the cailtons \i\ MaKin;ili m Sforza, who was raised lo
the ducal throne by tlie Swiss, alter they had expi||i |[ (.(je troops of Louis the Twelfth,
and taken possession of the t|t}tchy. ^'Vancj:^ the \\)4t Si|«ccssor of Louis, havin.^ w.
•The c.onqiust of Savoy liy the French tlcstroyctl this C(|ullib'iuin, mh\ was the certain prelude h>
'he suljju^ation ol Gcnivu.
t The account (uiven in Letters 65, 66, and C7j of the rc\olutions of Gencvii 178.3, 1"3J, "a \m<\
dh' in a storm," is oniittec! a;i liitle interestiim ut this pt nod of ,^i\uul revoluth^is.
{ Api)ei.j;el is exchided tVoni the i o-regency he( ausc the cession uas nuide in 1 5 1 .!, the year brfuri
that republic was adniittcd into the Helvetic tontederacy. Heside Mendrisio and Halerna, the o'her
Italian bailliui;es are Locarno, Lugano, and Vul-Maij;t;ia. 0 ri, Schw eilz and Under walden, possess ihn i-
bailliages, Uellinzona, Riviera, and Val-Breim*. which were equally disnu.ii.bercd tVom the Mil.»n<'>e
X -:.
.->M:'.- IJ;'.'. ;..:* iN j\» l V : F.ll L.\ M),
.v,\crul t;i.' Mil ,;:r'c lud s.ctiral hi , rwiifj'i' .,t l)y iIk- vict'.ry oI' M.iii;;ii.»i>o, puroIiuNcd
\\w. W\KV^\h\\^^^{ \\w S\vi-)S \i\ «;onlli-miiij( lli.ir li.'rht to llic cakcl imilorj ; a ri<,M»t
v.hi<:lj till subMCi I'lit d'lkis rl' Milan were iod pnul.iit to (li-,piitc.
MMulriii'i ;.ti(l li.ikriia* i> '>iii.' ol" tlic stn.ii! -Uol' lluii' tiaiiv.ilpinc baiUl.i^^fs : thr
hailitl'oi j^i-vciini-i^ ;i;ip<iiiH((l siM'cissivi ly \)\ f.uh ol' tlu' t'V( IvT <;unti>i)H, ;in(l remains
in oHic:( iwo •,«.;.•>. Hi i>> Mipiinii JMil}j;i t in criniinal alliiii^ withuiil appeal : a power
too ^^nat t«) iV ( iiirusiecl to u strait;;er, coniinoulv i.!.',ii'.rai>t of the laws, and iiit* rested
to iiieria.f lii.^ roeime. In ci\il causes an apjieal lu^ U) die svndicate of Sw il/.i riaiul
The iiihahiuiiits eijov consuh ral)le privihf<ts, eivih ecele'^iastical, and enintnereiah
The (hs'iic t i.s e;-;trt ni'cly fertile in vines, corn, and pastiirai^'c, and yields a ^^eat (inaii-
ii:\- ol' e\(ilknt silk.
"Uetiirnii,[? to Coiiin, I «ml)ark(d iip'.'ii the hike ; the banks near the town are rielil)
wooded, aiul stmldvd with eoiuitry honses and small vill;i|.!;is, Mhich lie upon th.
I^'entle aciTnitiis mar die iiuuKi'i oV the water. At Hisl the lakv is scamly a cpiar-
ter of a mile hroid, but it widtiis luar a neck ol land iip"n which is situate d tlif
small villa.ne ol" I'luiiio. 'I'hc lu i-hbonrhoiHl of Tnrni<j, nid the districts berderinji
(he h.ke (if C(MIU), suppi} , lor the most part, those lailian cmjf^raiits who waiidei
tIiroii;.;h l'.uro|)c vi tiding baroniiicrs and ihermonuters ; ef whom numbers annually
leaorl lo Kn|jlaiid.
Alter an hour's rowing we reached Plinlana, retiiarkable for a singular f«Hintain.
which is still to be seen in the s;imc state as described \>\ I'liny. riiniana, a villa be-
longing to a Milanese nobleman, is constructed upon li.e ul^'c fjf tlie water, in a most,
romantic situation, backed by rocks covered wiih tin^niid pasliue. 'I'he master ol
the house received me with much civMity and politeness, and kindly accompanied me to
the fountain. It is a spring, which bursts irom tlu roc I. ch^e to the house, and falls in
uatural cascades into the lake. 1 examined some of the jjlta-uomcna alluded to in the
following description, and received die account of the odiu-s from ilie gditknian him-
self, who had repeatedly made tlicm the subject of his observation. 'I'he spring ebbs
and flows three times a'dav ; it gradually rises, uiiiil it forms a considerable stn am, and
then as s^raduallv subsides,' till it becomes almost dry. 1 saw it in its flow, and measured
the increase in placing stones at dilVerent distances, which were successively covered in
a small sj)a(:c ol' litiiei This increase and decrease is regular, excepting \\\ Ixid weather:
it' Jieliite season, which has been exlreimly fair, the ebb and flow tvere remarkably uni-
form. The original passage, in which I'iiiiy describes the ebb and flow of Uii't, spring,
is writteti upon the wall of an adjoining apartment.
Fons oritur in monte, per saxa decurrit, excipitur c.tnatiuncula manu facta ; ihi paulu-
lutTi retentus in Larium lacum decidit. Hujus mira natura : ter in die statis auctibus ac
diniinutionibus crehcit, deereseitque. Ceruiiur id palam, et cum summa volu plate de-
prehenditur : juxta recumbis, et vesceris, atquc etiam ex ipso lonte (nam ( st frigidi^si-
mus)potas: interim ille certi^ dimensis(iiic momeiitis vel subtrahltur vel ndsurgil annu-
lum ; sen (juid alitid ponis in siceo, alluitur sensiin, ac novissime apentur ; daegitur
rursus paulaiimfjue deseritur : si diutius observes utrumque iterum ac tertio videas4
»l!itt*- i¥.\v dhlhion of Switzt rluiiel, Mcndrisio :uid BLilcriia wfve imlude'd in the canton or depart
incnt oi" Lwt;:,.i!>o.
t III c ..'•t i-.r I apU il i>ur.ishnu;nt, lie isobli;^i;d to coiibiilllhc sccivtary, notary, and llic oUict olhetrs
' luivc uu votij, his power is siiprcnio.
' ran
cur
SUV-
t III e ..'•t i-.r > apU il pur.islunent, lie isobli;^i;d to coiibiilllhc sccivlary, notary, and llic other otTie-
nf tlie disuif t ; but us lh<y luivc uo votij, his power is supreme.
i PlLn, lv.»is'.. lib. iv. I'.p. xxn. " Tliere is u spruii^ which ribes in ;i i\eit;hboi)rini? mountain, and r.
lun/anio'.v'liK; i<jcks is iKeivcd iiiio a liu!e baimiKUin^-rooni, IVoni whi-ni-..'uU« r Uif lorce ol its t
tcnl is u liUie re.tniiia'd. it lulls iiiUi Uu' Larian lake. The iKiUire ol 'his spiini; is exlrcuicly s
Bsao
\MJ IS IHl-. COt'VUn <»r THE MI»S0V6.
ti'J,.
Kaviij^ f^i.iiiiial my curiosity at P'liii.mi, I unli.irkul, mh\ (ontimud to Clarice,
wlKn." 1 [M^M (I till iii'rlu. 'PIk' utatlu", wimli li.is l.m.ly hrcii iiiicommniily suhr\, is
sudduiiy < liaii}^».<|, iiiid lhi>< intiiuinij^ a \ioItiu ihinuki-.siorni overtook ii?» upoiitlic lake ;
the wafer Im iii|,M.xlrum ly aj^iiatid, uc I.iikIv d at a vi.iill villa>;i; ii|i«>ii ilic »vtsit in ^hort.
ill order lo wait uiitij die stnrn\ slioidd >.u^^ilU•. The iiavi^Miion */ tin. sc lakes*, u'liicli
arc- ciu:losi(l lHt\\trii ilu inouiitaiuH. is occa-ii'aially dati.^trous, acf;oriliii|jf to VirifiP''.
dcbcripiiuu ol die licnaciis, or Liigo di (lii.irda.
'I'll, I.ut'i ruikxinu-, tiufitu
i'iiKiilAii K\ fi't'initii usMU'i^ciii, ikiiaci', nrtrino
The lake oj C'otno is lihoiil thiriy-six niik's in kiif^th, in jjcniTal IVuin two to thixr
b!()>.d, and I'onr ai the widest part, nhiru it is divided into two hiaiulus. The great.
braiK.h kaels tlirectl) to Coujo; the small lnMiuh, ealled the lake ul Letico, dise.hart;c>
the Adda, and connnnnicates hy means olllui river und Uic canals* of the Addu and
iIk; Canalc Vccchio, with Milan.
The bordvrs lire hi^;h hills covered with viiies, . panish chesnut, walnnt, and alnioiul
trees, and dott( d with nunu rous \ ill i;.^ > and small touns. The hills houndiii;..^ tlu; lake
rise gradually higher and higher, Imui those which encircle Con»o to the crags which
tower mar its upper exireniit).
The storm at kngth subsiding, I embarked, and p.'-ocectkd to Ikllano, whose streets
iW so narrow as scarcely to admit the smallest cart. It is situated at the toot of a lofty
precipice, rent Ironi top to bottom by a chasm, through w hich a furious torrent for( ts
Its way. iV bridge is thrown across the chasm, from whence the spectator looks down
widi terror into a guU scana,) inleri(;r in de|)th to that at the I'anien-Hruck, ', in the
canton ofCilarus, .and hi aqueduct is (;onducttd along the precipitous sides of the rock.
I again embarked, ati'' proceeded to Doiiiasu, where I waited upon the governor, to
obtain tin permission ( \isiting n fort (;f I'uen'i s : my rKjuest bt ing nadily complied
with I crossed tlu lake, , compauK fl by a soklii.f. and landid at Colhco.
A little above Uomasi a, on bo'h sidis ol d)c lake, ixgins the malaria, or imwholesome
air ; the borders an no longer abuipi luj'.s but a Hal suan^j), I'ormirl) covered widi water.
The inhabitants arc subject to intermiitiiig fever>; on wliicli account during tlie heatsof
summer, wiien the m. Tignity ol liie a:in().^j>ln ;i is at its heiglil, the great< r part (|uit the
plain, and retire to the ne ighboiiiliig uioimtains- I found C'ollico anel its neighjjourhood
almost entirely cksLTtcd ; Uie eo:t.iges were s'.ui: iij) ; ai>tl had it not been ibr the appear-
ance of a straggling num ai.d W(,tnan, sh'j'.dd i)a\c co!iv:lu<Kd this part of the country to
have been uninhabited. Alter waikii g ;;!;out tvvo uiiks liom Collieo, we came to the
bottom of the rock, u|)on wiiivh stand.-* th'. fort of I'm nies. But before we ascend, I
shall detain you a monu nt with a siv.rt hi^'ory o! tjiis lort, which at the beginnin;^^ of
the last ecitiuiy was so much eekbrakdin the annals of Europe.
prisinf^ ; it •!'•)' ..nd flows r(';:;ul;aiy t!i: ;;!iincs a tl.^y. Thv iiK.niisc and dcr rcast; i :i!;anly visi!)lc,
aiul very entci'.aaiiii!^ to ol)M rvt . V ja mi down l)y Uic side oI'iIk! '.oiiMtuin, mul whiUi )oii arc l.d^iiiij
a rtpusi and diiiikiii'^ its w.atr wliii li '\.-. ixircnuiy cool, you sec it m'udiudly rise, und fall. IT you
pliitc 11 riiij^, or nay lainjr ilsi; at the lioiloin whfii it is dry, the stream rcaclich it Ijy dc-;, n-s till it is
entiitly covered, and tlnn ajciia K">t'y ''''l'''i^^'' •'"'!» ii ; und il you wail you may bfc ii tl. s-i adv;msc
and recede llircc tliiKs siu ci.sbivcly."....Mvlmoth'b TvttUbiation
• Sec l.euir «t<. > Sec Lctlcf 6
104
fioxt'A II'. avll^ :n .w> r/.i '.ii.-.nu,
Oiu of the iiiiul(s ill A trtaty Ixlwcni Fnnuii Sfor/.ii, clukr ol Miliit, .ii\ii tui- (ui-
,ouH, cxprissly sfipuLiliii^; that no Tort should \h- c;oi\j»irin'tccl ia the rli»M'Kt of riaiituli >,
was coiilimud l>j thi- S(miush hraritliot the hoiiM'ol .\it«itria, which nucccidcd ("harltf
ihi Tilth ill the ju)sst^sioii olihr MihniM-. NuivNiihstaiulin^ this a|^r« cim nt, wht n the
rihgio(isdiN|tiitcH, occasiumd by the iiiitodticiioiiol the rt-lniiiKil rilifjion into the Val
ttliiic, criati (I a j aloiisy bcuvct ii tin house of Austria and the GrisonH, the count dc
I'lieutes, nmernorof Milan, laid, in ItiO.I, the luiindaiion of the n)rt, uhieh he called afici
his own namr, and sau it completed in ICioO. From this place situated in the I'latitc
dio, he introduced troops into the N'alteline, and supported the inh ihitants in their hos-
tiliiiiH .^^ainst the Orisons. Henry the rourth (»f France, alhidin|; to the construction
(iiid situation of this fort upon th(. holders of Italy, and near tlu conlineH of the (Jri
boiis, tihcd to saj , U viut ilu nieuie na'ud serivr la goigc dc I'llalio cl k's pieds aux
(irissoiis.*
If you are no« fatigued uitli this preliminary accomit, \vc uill now mount to the fort,
ami t.ike a \icu nf its present state. It is hnilt upon an iusulaiid rock, .ibout a inilr
iiiid a half Ironi tlu ne.irest riil^e of mountains, and t\M) miles from the lake, so that il
completely cfimmands the «)nly j^riatopeniuj^ which lea«ls into the V.ilteline, either from
t!ic .\lil.iiust. or the (irisons; a situation ol" f!;re it importance, whin the possession of the
N'alteline was an ohjict of consefjuence to the house of Austria. The lortilications art
a (juarter of a mile in circumlt renee, constructed with stone, and contain a few ruinoub
barracks lor soldiers, and the governor's hf)use, which is in a most wretched condition,
The whole garrison consists of three soldiers, who at the expiration of three days, return
to Domasio, and are relieved by an ecpial number : the only inhabitants are a pt asaiit
and his wife, wlio have resided there a jear, ami have been almost constantly atlliitcd
with the ague. The plain below the r'>ck being entirely marshy, anil covered with
rushes, exhales a pestilential iflluvia, which infects tlic atmosphere, and occasions the
unu holesomencss of the fort. The Spaniards were accustomed to style this place, from
its peculiar situation, the yoke of the (irisons, while the Orisons, in allusion to its bad
lir, termed it with more prop/ritty the grave of the Spaniards.
The view from the fort is remarkably fine and picturescpie. On one side, the rich
Vulleline, watered by the turbulent Adda ; on the oilier, the lakes of Como and Chiaven-
na, beautifully encircled with numerous towns and villages. The hills which skirt the
Valtcline and the lake of Como, present a variegated landscape of forests, cornlields, and
pastures, finely coniraited, towards the Orisons, by the rugged Rlie'ian Alps covered
with eternal snow.
Having taken leave ol the dnx-c soldiers, and i)id adieu to the peasant and his wife, I
descended into the jiiain : the soil is fertile, but being subject to frefpient inundations,
is not capable of constant cultivation. That part which lies between the fort and the
lake is so marshy, that although the straight line to the place of embarkati(;n scarcely ex-
needed two miles, yet I was obliged to make a circuit of five l)el'ore I arrived. I passed a
range of sijuare stones w hich form the boundary betw een the Milanese and the country of
ihc Orisons: on one side of each stone was inscribed Stato di Milano, on die other
Grigioni : they were put up, as the date inlormed me, in 1 70/>, the year in which die
treaty, or the cajjitulation of Milan, was concluded between the enjpress of Oermany,
as sovereign of Milan, and the (jnsons. By this treaty the limits of the two states
were finally settled; and several other sul)jects of dispute amicably adjusted. Having
reached the Adda, which, for a sliort space, makes the line of separation between the
Milanese and Orisons, 1 walked along its bunks ; its stream is muddy, and navigabl''
• Willi llic same kiiol hu binds tin; UKck of lialv ;uul the ice*, of tlicGiisou-^.
\
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Collection de
microfiches.
C<)nii(1iar\ Institult' tor HisturK .tl Mu. r of npn )()u(:tu)(is Ir-stit'i! i hilkImmi tie nil; r (>r«.'pro(luc:nofis historiques
:\
O
\\i)t\ I i; I. CO V ,v T n I c i- i:ir. r, h i so v a.
iiV.i
♦iMiv \>y rafts. Most of tht maps of the lake of Como arc erroneous, in rcprtstntiiij;^
that lake and the Lat^littto di Chiaveiina as one great piece of water, and tlie Adda m
flouiiif^ into tlic former ; w hereas the two lakes are distinct bodies, and the Adda joins
a small stream which issues from the Laghetto, and thus united falls into the lake of
Como.
I embarked near Dacio, the last village in the Milanese, at which place all boats
laden with merchandise are oljliged to pay a small duty. Soon afterwards I entered the
lake of Chiavenna, which belongs to the Orisons. The views of this lake are extremely
wild and magnificent ; surrounded as it is with barren rocks, craggy, and rising into
spires sprinkled with snow : the bases of the dreadful precipices arc lost in the dead and
overshadowed water, dangerous on account of its malignant vapours, and affording no
asylum, scarcely a landing-place, to the crews of those frail boals caught unwarily in
the violent storms to which it is subject. I landed at Riva which consists of a few
scattered cottages and warehouses, and having procured some horses, proceeded to
Chiavenna by moo i-light. The villages were almost deserted, and the inhabitants
withdrawn to the nountains. The jieople in general are so greatly alarmed at the un-
wholesome state of the air in this season, that the watermen who rowed me from Como,
although exceedingly fatigued, went back to Domasitj, and exerted all their eloquence
to dissuade me from my first intention of remaining in the plain : overcome by their re-
peated importunities I pursued my journey to Chiavenna. Indeed no other proof of
the tainted air is requisite than the aspect of the inhabitants ; the few peasants whom I
met in the villages, as well near the Fort of Fuentes as in the valley of Chiavenna,
were mosUy wan and livid The narrow valley through which I passed from the lake
to Chiavenna, is enclosed between the first and lowest chain of the Rhetian Alps ; it is
watered by the torrent Maira, and produces Turkish wheat, pasture, chesnuts and
mulberry-trees, together ^ith a great abundance of willows. The ascent is rapid to
Chiavenna, which is built in a higher and more wholesome situation.
LETTER LXIX.
P/urs,...Its destruction tn the last Ceutunj by a Fall of a Mountain..., Vallcj oj
Pregalia.
July 25
MY last letter left me at Chiavenna, of which town I defer sending you any descrip-
tion, a;s I propose returning there in my way to Coirc. The morning after my arrival,
I rode about lour miles, to the spot formerly occupied by the town of Piura, or Piurs,
which was totally overwhelmed by the fall of mount Conto. This terrible catastrophe
happened on the 25th of August 1618.
Plurs was a large and flourishing town, subject, as well as Chiavenna, to the Orisons.
Contemporary writers mention, that it contained three churches, many large houses,
and a stone bridge over the Maira, and that its population amounted to at least 1500
inhabitants who carried on no inconsiderable commerce. The valley in which it
was situated is very narrow, and the whole town was buried in one undistinguished ruin,
A contemporary account relates, that the cloud of dust and rubbish was m great as to
cover the heavens like smoke, and even to extend as far as Chiavenna ; the inhabitants
of which place, alarmed at this phenomenon, were still more terrified at the sudden disap-
pearance of die Maira (whose course was stopped by the fallen fragments of rock) and
apprehensive that the torrent had undermined Cliiavenna, precipitately fled in great nuni
bers to the mountains.
8U0
foxr.'s iRAvr.i.s in :>\\ i i '/r.nr, and,
I walked .>v( V tlu; snot ^^lu■.•c IMurs u'.s Ixiilt : p.irts of tlv- annoiit vvalls and the
n,L of :. .ounu-) hou ' , uhid, bciont^cl to th. Frauclu, the nohc^ Lun. y .. the phK:c,
ar.thc o.;U r.nu.ins of its rornKrcxVst. n(^c ; aiulthcsc uomcI not l)c .)ot,.-x(l 1,> a p.
,lv . A peasant who has acotta;^e .lose to the ruins poUecl out to me every pla^
as it had brln explained to hin, I.y his ^randtather. H. sh- urc nu. when: stood he
h r hcs ..nd priilipal honses, U>e .ha.md thnni^h w ueh U.e nyer then ^M'^ukX
re the brid v v^ as eonstrueted. I le i-dbrnu'd nR', that m .hj^.-mK, severaldead l,o-
i V iK . 'Vonnd ; partieularly the bone, of a priest, covuxd u.th shreds of ^.r-
KMU ^hieh indieatJ that h. was employed in divine service when the rock over-
h h cd \hv town, llr.uschold ut.nsils are hciuently du^- op ; the other day s.verM
•' , : !nrcdiM:overcd, and on the linger bone of on. .er. ^''^^'Tf 'T^'':!^;?^
\iM yards, <h.s.nl.tru., and houses eovr; the .pot v. h.ve thi. unlortunate town was
""Tlli^'^n^v'in tins part lus an <. al appearance, and is skirted by a 1--;;^ ;' ^^^^^ "[
.msnnt-nee;; d,e snrnHnulin,pnountains .re steep atul ^'^^^^V;^'''^.' "'"^^^ " ^td
Monnt Savonne, Taecina fra^■ia, a eonsid. rJ.le torrent pree.p.ta es Use 1, at hrst xn a nil
:, nbrolun stream, and aiuruards di^id.. into thn e separate lalls, highly ornamental to
''Vn"f nJloived^uv ,nide to the honse of a gend. man near Chiavcnnu,. to sec a
drawimx of Plm-s before it vvas ovcrwhelnud ; his ancestors had larL^e possessions and
xr tfc richest f.n.ilv in tlie town. The master of the house shewed me the picture,
i;X!<plained to me {he situation of the di 111 rent buildings. He t^ien P0»'^^»y/^^;2;
panied me thron^h his s,n-ounds to a manulactory ol stone-pots ^^''^Jf'^;'^;^^^^
re made lu ar ChiaNenna, avul much used for kitchen utensils ^»;i"^'5.^>^""V ,h 1.'
and some parts of Itah . Thi. manufacture is very ancient : IMiny mentions the ^ stone
xmder the denomination of lapis Comensis, because die pots were sent to Como, and
'^''nK'sT'iitca'sils are made \n thc^ follo^ving process : the ^^'orkmen hew from the rpiarry
semicircular blo< ks of stonc^ from which, widi an instrument resembling that used by
turners, they hollow a vessd about a foot in diamecer Irom the reniaining mass they
frame another of inferior dimensions, and continue their operation till die) Have pio-
duced a series of semicircular pots, gradually decreasing to the size ol a small basin.
I'rom IMurs I continued alun- the valley of Santa troce, and entered the country of the
Grisons at the small village of Casta Segna, m Pregaha. , ^ ,■ r i
AtBondo, which isa?mall village in the valley of Pregalia, count de Salis, formerly
British en%ov to the Grisons, has constructed a large and commodious house entire >
fitted up in ihe ]M,glish taste. It is situated at the extremity ol a small plain scarcely
half a mile in length, and about four hundred paces broad, bounded on each side by
a ell .in of the KlK^ian Alps, whose sides are covered with forests intermixed w ith luxu-
riant pasture. The pktin is enclosed by some rugged rocks, beliinc^ which others shoot
lo an enormous height, crowned with perpetual snow ; this litde plain produces exce-
leiit pasture, barlev, .ye, vegetables of all sorts, and some iruit-trees. Ihrough it dash-
es the torrent Maira over broken fragments of rock. , ,
1 raml)led aboiu the vallev of Pregalia and the neighbourmg mountains; and ob-
served the domestic a-eonom> of the peasants. Their food is chiefly salt meat, r)c,
Vhce .i s. it i,,.,iKU,u;', .u U..U... loUie tour.',., und coiupuscd ot miauiml su^Uile.. U iu a InsilAu.
' n e lu nv it .l.si.v euuu.d Ittrued; uu being exposed lo the air aluu-dens,bulwtll take nu poU.h.
.\ .\ ri IN iiji: (o.'jvrir. oi i ii r. (.niscs
.-If).
and
V>rc;i(l, inilK, ihTsc, poKntn, iv.d chi-siuits, uIi'kIi :ir( m> plentiful at tin;, licason oi' tli'
year that tluv niakf; a priiH;ip:il ingredient in nil ihiir nuals : tlii' nuisf fDmnion nu
thods c;f (lixssinf^ tlicni aru to hoil, and serve thoin up uitli ciumbsr)!' Ijreaci, or to j,'rin(i
them to a paste and tlirn livat thtin with uiiJk. The |.easantsare ut 11 elotlicd. They
mannlacturc linen and coarse cloth at home, f v ry I'ainily liavin;;; a loom, which !•
worked in the winter ,seas(jn ; the fnier cloth, which the}' wear only on Simda} s and
I'estivals, is jirocnred from Germany.
The valley of Pret^alia reaches from the I'odcteria of I'lurs to the Cdnrnusol' Ujjpei
J'ln.^adina, and e.onlains about eiii^htetn huiidrtd inhabitants; it is a hij,di jurisdicliui'
in the league of (.iod's Mouse, and is divided into the two independent eomuninities oi
Sopra and Sotto Porta; so denominated from a wall \\iih an opeiiin;^ called Portn,
through which die road passes, and which separates the valley into two ccpial parts.
These two communities enjoy a democralical Ibrm of government : a short aicf)unt ol
which will convey some idea of the mode in w hieh the administration of alVair.-j is < arried
on in diese little states.
Each community has its general assembly, in which the sovereign power is vested,
every male at the age of eighteen has a vote ; in each of these assemblies the magistrate
and representatives to the general diet are chosen hy the majority of voices ; instrnc
tions are given to tlic representatives, and all appeals from the diet decided in the las!
resort. Fe^r civil causes the two communities have separate tribunals, composed of thr
Landamman, wh.o is president, and twelve assistants ; and an appeal lies from one tc
the odicr. For criminal allairs there is one cotirt of justice, composed of a Podest;?
and an equal nuniber of judges from each community. The Podesta is thus chosen .
each community appointii two persons, who nominate nine others, and these nine choos'
two candidates, who draw lots for the office. The same person is not unfrequenth
nominated Podesta by both parties ; and then it is decided liy lot to which he belongi.
This criminal court of justice is always held at \'ieo Soprano, in Sopra Porta. In all
delinquencies the punishments are extraordinarily severe, and the remission or alle
viation is entirely left to the judges, who generally take a communication in fmes ; so thai
if the criminal ".s poor he unclergoes the punisliment, if rich, he rvdi'enis liimstlf b'
Mioncy.
LETTER LXX.
Dcsniption of the Marmot.
The marmot is e>:treniely common in the mountains ot Switzerland, and paru
r.ularly in this part of the Orisons ; and, as many erroneous accounts of this sagacious
little animal have been given, I shall send yon an extract, selected from a description
written in the Cierman tongue by Dr. (jirtaner. *•
The marmot inhabits the highest and most inaccessible mountains, prefers the narrow
valleys, and particularly the western or southern aspect, as the warmest, and avoid.s
moist places. After sleej)ing during winter, he issues from his hole at die opening o!
spring, and descends to the lower regions, where vegetation \^ forward. In snmniei
he again ascends the rocky heights, and frecjuenls solitary caverns. He feeds upon
herbs and roots, and jjarticularly on the alpine plantain, mountain spingel, alpine lady'f<
mantle, mountain sorrel, alpinetoud-Hux, a![)ine trefoil, and alpine ht'arwort ; f when
• A Frinrli tnuislatioii of this uccoiiut isirivcinnRozirr's JouriKil for l/So.
t ri;\i(t.ii>,o ulpina, I'helUiii(lpiuin imitcHiaii, AlclK'iuilla ulinim, Kuiik x dip.vn'ih, Ai/;rl,imiin alp'
nuni, Trifuli»im aliiimnu, A'-tcr Alpiniis.
vor.. V. 5 V
fouls ut <.vuy sip, lookiniion.'.cl.sia.u.tl. utnorous xvatchlulncss ; hcd.u.ks buthttU.
A In. k 1:v tl. old nuunu.ts nun. out of dK-ir holes and l.cd afterwards he
hriP^Vo t ,1 r voun^ ones, who sra.nper on all sides, chase each other, s. on tl e.r
d U • d r^n n^n tha p.o.tnre, fa'in,;^ the s.n., with an a,r expressive oi sat.slac
nd '^^V,;' '';^^.'" •,• .;^,,,^,,.,^^ o warnuh, and when tlu y thn.k themselves sectjrf
•h.sk h Z s rt ^al hours. Helb^c they eollect ,rass either i,. lood or lo,
hen u t rh bit .ms thev lor.n themselves into a eirele, sUtn.!. on :hc.r lund leg.,
w r '^> m allsidcs; on tlK hast alarn,, the iirst i;.ves inst^mtly a shnll en
w el i on. nnnieatccl irc.m or.e to the other, and they eseape wuhou repeatu,|^ tl r
noi'e -riK eluss. e.rs, bv in.itating these successive whistUngs. approach so near as to
^^'^;;:;!;::; '; il:: a ';u:k eye, and discover, t.. enemy at a conside^ble disUmcc He
r ..,r d.KS the least ii iurv to anv animal, and Hies when he is pursued. In lac , uhtii
nr 1 live ()f H^^^ iollowtd; whole families quit their dwellint;s, and wander frotri
'Z:^lo mo!;;i! but vhen ilight is intp.isible, tluy 'l;^'^-;,;';-- ^^/^^
,j,;;it against men and dogs, and attack all who approach them with thc.r teeth and
'^ Tl^v live- together in societies. They have both snn.mer and winter ^^^':";"g^;;;;'^;;;^
•irc easilv distiu<.uished. The former remain open durmg the whole > ear ; whereas the
1. ter re do r 't the end of September. In the stnunur dwelhngs .s found dung m
^a?;i'';^Sch anmliny ll ^^r^a^s accorlihlg t:: Jhe si.e of the dwelling, and the angmen.
''ln\he IbrS'of their dwellings U.ey scoop out the earth with great dexterity and
..^^t!;n ..all part d^th.w....^^a^^^
;;^or^^thehambei which thev repose. The passage ancl the two branches
c - Iwa s c rVa^^^^^^^ straight line, unless the intervention of a rock, or any other tm-
\rcl " ' t anJ resembles the shape of an oven ; ii is innn three to seven leet m d.a-
nut! and is 'su-ewed with hay, in which the marn.ots he .n a dorn.ant state durntg the
'' On 1^\^^ to this dwelling about the beginning of October they carefVdly dose
dK etnmc so as to exclude all air, with a cement of earth mixed with stones and hay^
cUSn- this dunnberdireewc.ks after it is dosed, the marmots are discovered lying
^ h ^o^ ocach other, and roUeduplike hedge hogs, without the 1-^t apj^ar-
: ce of life. Usuallv iron, five to sixteen are found together ; sometimes, but rarely
i^^^lii^ occupy the same dwelling, and occasbnally, butvery ^^ J^-; -^ -j^
bis been discovered alone. If exposed to warmth thty aNvaken. 1 he lame marmots
di not eep durmg winter; but on the approach of that season, excited by instinct, col-
let ma Is to Srds constructing theif dwellings. The wild marmots occupy' their
t t" l^uuiins in October, andTp.it it towards the latterendot ^ j'-'-^ ^^^ ^S^
ni„g of Aprik In removing the cement which doses the opening they do not push it
\Nu IN 'NIK c;oi;ni:!V ..i ini. (.aisoN'i..
8D1'
lead like
)Ut little,
rds they
on their
satisiac
•s SLCurf
f>d or for
iiid legs,
lirill cry,
■duus; the
tiear ub tc
nee. Me
ct, whtii
Kler from
Ives with
tcedi and
gs, whicli
K-reab the
d dung in
.r contain
uantily of
aiigmcn-
:terity and
se, render
X or seven
»r is from
vc or six
lall cavity,
) branches
• other im-
d or oval,
feet in dia-
during the
•fully close
es and hay.
vered lying
ast appear-
but rarely,
>ne marmot
ii; marmots
istinct, col-
ceupy their
• the begin -
not push it
outwards, but draw it iuwardb, iukI probably convey the materials, which would blor;.
up the principal passage, into the small cavity. , , i j
They copulate soon alter coming out: in June or July young ones have been obs<rvcrl
about the sItic of rats. • r
It is proljable that they do not cat during their torpid slate ; f..r the same quantity ot
hay is observed both in spring and autumn in their winter habitations, and tiiose whtcl:
have been dug out in diat season are thin and perleetl) em|)ty. The ll.sh of the marmo'
is eatable, and its ikin is used for fiu's.
LCTTKU LXXI.
Passage of the Mal/ogg/'i..../M/a' ofSi!r/io....Sclvu Pinna ami S>. Mr.ri;zo....Expe<li
tion to the Julian Columns..., lievio.
St. More-zzo, .ful (/?■>{
THK road through Pregalia to Coire admits carriages, but is very indifterently payed
I passed through the village Promontogno, then through, the Porta to Stampa, Vice
So[)rano, Borgo Nuovo, and Casaueia. The houses m Utis valley are of stone, plastered
and whitewashed; are not scattered, as in die small cantons of Switzerland, but ever>
half mile a cluster of habitations presents itself. • „ , ,
Bejond Bowdo the eountrv produces no more chesnut-trecs, but principally larch and
firs ; it yields grass, barlev, and rye. Near Casaueia is the barren and lofty mountain ol
Set. 1 hi re quitted the'h.igh road which turns towards Coire, and about a mile and a
half further where the valley terminates, I began to mount a very steep ascent, by die
side of the torrent Maira, which rushes amidst a forest of firs ; it descends from the
glacier of the Malin, a lidgc of Alps separating the \'alteline from the country of the
Grisons. A little further 1 reached the top of the Malloggia, and oliservcd the Orlenga,
a glistening torrent, falling from the Liingin mountain, and forming the remotest source
of the Inn. The Malloggia is the poin't of partition, dividing the waters which run
towards the Black Sea, i'rom those which flow into the Adriatic. The tops of the cir-
cumjacent mountains are mostly rugged, and covered with snow ; lower down they arc-
enlivened with underwood, firs, and pasture.
I stop])edat a single house, a kind of inn, where travellers are accommodated. The
landlord and his family speak an Italian jargon similar tu the Milanese dialect, which is
common in Pregalia. The next place is Siglio in Upper Engadina, where Roniansh is
the general tongue. On inquiring whether it was similar to the Ktaliuu spoken in Pre-
galia, the landlord informed me that the two languages are totally difterent ; and the ser-
vant assured me, thats!" could scarcely comprehend a word which was uttered Iiy tiie
inhabitants of Siglio. From Malloggia I descended, crossed the Orlenga, and con-
tinued along the l)anks of die lake of'Siglio ; the way was bad and craggy until 1 came
to the coniines of Engadina, w here an excellent road commenced.
The small lake of Siglio is about live miles in circumference, and finely situated be-
tween high perpendicular rocks; it takes its name from Siglio, which we left at a little
distance on our rij^ht. I crossed the Inn soon after it is.sues from the lake, and pursued
my course over die dry bed of the torrent Fait, which ibrnierly flowed into the Iim, but
has lately changed its course, and now falls into the lake of Selva Plana. These tor-
rents often shift their channels; and 1 could observe esident traces, tliut some of them
had, at former periods, watered Uie small plain between the lakes of Siglio and Sclva
Plana. The village of that name stands pleasantly upon a small ri^iig ground, anrl the
lake, though much smaller than that of Siglio, far surpas'-xs it in tlie beauty of its banks,
0 Y 2
I'OW
i.^
I i; .\\ !./.:• l\ •• V I I.' 'I' ' ' "^^ n,
V, lii( 11 :ii< iriiic;'d Aiili li;»n};iii;^' fnovxs ol" lii- and lanli. Froni llii^ l.ik<' tht Inn issm*
ill :\ l.ii;N 1- sin'.ini, Tails iii^ain'iit a liulc (tistuiu^c inlu llu- like (.1 St. Mori/zo, i'roni
nlieiict'ii ilaslics tlirou|^'h'a<li( p rocky channel into the pkiin orC'clniiia, wlurt: it flows
ill a more tran(iuil ( nnvnt. Tlusi.' liulc pkiins, or vallics, mc IjioacltT and loiif-ri- than
ihuif;!' Moiulo, and piodnct as nuich ^^rass, uhi(h is now nKuvint--.
At JStlva IMana, I altcmitcd toconvMN uitli soinr of the iiilu.hitanfs, but could
sc;,rccly conipa'.itnd thtni ; I ha\f Ijicn iiidcuvourinj^ uIsd io talk uiili the natives of
•.his plai'i'. Many spc.k Italian, as it is nuith IVkhk iitc d l)y slra!ip,ris fWr the sak(; of
llitwatirs; Init tla (;riatLr pan iiiidd-.tand nothin;.;' but Itoniaiisii. 'I'liis inorniii},' lxin;r
Siindav I attt ndcil divim. Mivict ; the ckixvnian pivarhcd in ih- lan^'uaf.;c ol' the
<.')iintiy,aiiil I ttaild i.oniprduud lililc n»(ia: Uian that the toxi was in the 22d chapter
of Si. "l.uke. 'I'l.c Minioii, uliicli is Uk- principal part of tlio service, was abfuit ari
honr Ion;;-; tin piavirs were sh.jrt, the j4,irls sniii;- psalms ; soinj of them had cMightlnl
voices, and peiibniud v.idi i^iiat laslc and propriel} , a proof of their neighbourhood to
^talv. ,
St. ^hmz-.-.o, or, as it is most comnionly called, St. Maurice, stands agrceaijly upon
;'ii(. hide (.f a hill, ovrrlookinj^- a small lakr which lies in the bosom of the mountains,
and is bounded bv risiii},' banks studded wiih wood and pasture. 'Hiis village is re-
niarkal)lc lor a plJulilul spriiiL? of mineral water, nuich esteemed for its eft^icacy in curing
-' vcral disorders ; it issues frcim the ground about the distance of half a mile on the other
si<le of the river Inn, is a very plentiful source, and strongly impregnated with vitriol.
Onphmging licaumer's thermometer into die source it sunk from 1 J to 4^. I was in-
lormed that, from repeated observations, the thermometer \aried according to the
greater or less degree of rain; but ui)on an a\erage the mercury generally stood be-
•ween 4 and 7.
I am lodged in one of the boarding-houses, which abound in this place for the accom-
modation of persons who drink the waters. The company at table consist at present
if only two merchants of Appenzel, who arc established at Genoa, and a clergyman of
Lower Kngadina. As I soon discovered the clergyman to be an ii\telligent mail, I dis-
,;oursed with him upon the state of religion among the reformed part of the Orisons,
and particularly relating to the Pietists, a sect which has lately matle great progress
in these parts.' From the account gi\en by the clergyman, who evidently leaned to-
wards their opinions, these l^ittists appear similar to our Methodists : they exalt faith
:ibo\e good works, affect to be uncommonly rigid and pious, condemn all diversioiis,
card-piayiiig, and assemblies, as criminal ; frequently despair of salvation, fancy visions,
•, njoy supernatural inw ard illuminations, and cmjjloy so much lime in prayer as to ne-
glect their ordinary Ijusin-ss. The clergymeii of tiiis sect are for the most part ignorant
and superficial, are vehemently vociferous in die ptdpit, thunder out reprobation, and
expatiate upon justification, without explaining the methods of avoiding the one, and of
. btaininglhe other.
These preachers, notwitlistanding their aflectation of a total mdifference to worldly
matters, do not confine dieir views merely to theological si)eculaiions, but pay a coii-
^■!deralJle degree of attention to political alfairs ; and as by means of their authority in
religious concerns they possess a considerable inHuence over the votes of their jiarishion-
trs," thev arc on that account much caressed and countenanced by several leading per-
sons among the Orisons.
The dress of the women is singular, and not unbecoming ; it consists of a black or blue
iacket with red sleeves, striped blue and white petticoats, a small black velvet cap trimmed
with gold or silver lace, with a black or white lace border hanging over the forehead.
,V !■ I V I ,11 ( ('> V . U \
I :. L .11 li«t\
UOk
From St. Mnx'/./.n I iii;i(I'.' an ( xciir.siou fo tlu Jiiliaa toltimii>, m \\lii>:li S Irii/.ir
has ^ivcfKi c!' sc.riptioii and an (iiu;rivinf; in his Itinera Alpiiia : hiMipposcs ih(.'in;<»h.i\i
htcii cri'ctid l)y Julius (Jicsir, in onU r to mark thi- limits f>t"hiscnn(|iK'sts in ihLS'- parts,
and assuti tlial N\ phis nltra, and Oniilto Klutos Itidoinitos, arc insiriljid nponthrtti.
Alkr pas-iini,^ St, hi I'lana, I tnrnid up a pal'i which h ads to tin Julian Alps, roiuinu< d
about t\V(j hours oviT ru;.,'..(td rocks, and n.aclud the Juruin columns, if tluy deserve so
tlijj,nilicd an apprllation. 'I'licv arr of a circular shape, sonn what similar to tlu' Roman
milc-stoncs, placed at the ilistancc ol' al)ont forty Icct Irom lach other. 'I'heir htii^ht
above the i;roiind is lour li.et, and they set ni to Ije buried a fool, or scarcely so mucli ;
their circumrereiiei' is about live li et. They have neither pedestals nor ea|)itals, and arc
llattish at tf)p, with a small round hoi- in the n\iddlt: lorn' inches diameter and six deep;
they were formed b} art but in the rudest manner, and do not contain the smallest traces
of any inscription. We have no reason therefore to <;on(;lude, that these pillars were
erected by Julius (J;ebar to ascertain the boundar\ of his coucpiests, or at least we have
no proofs upon which we can de[)end for the truth ol' this popidar story. I do not how-
ever rcf^ret that 1 made the excursion; fur my curiosity, ili-.a[)p()iuied in a view of the
pillars, lias been gratified in visiiinjj; the^e wild and romantic Alps.
The Julian Alps produce much pasture, but no wood, whiei: is a proof of their j^reat
elevation. Near the stones just described is a piece of water call id the Julian 1 ike ; il is
supplied from a glacier on a superincumbent mountain, from which a torrent descendr;
to the lake of Selva Piana, and may be considered as a source ol' the Inn.
I soon afterwards .stopped at a cottage, the only house in the whole extent of these
Alps; it is not occupied but during summer; the tenants every night house the cattle
that graze upon these mountains, and make large ([uantities of butter and chei'sc. Ilav
ing taken a refreshing bowl of thick cream, 1 began my descent, and observed numc-
rcjus small streams ; some issuing from the rocks, others falling from the glaciers, and
forming the iirst sources (jf the Little Kliine. The path was so stee[) and craggv that I
j'avc my horse to the guide, and preferred walking ; aljout live miles from the pillars I
arrived at Bevio, a small \ illage ujion the Little Uhine, in the high road leading to Coirc.
Every one being emi)loyed in hay-making, 1 could not gain admittance into the inn .
some friars, however, oiil red me their house and dinner, and prevented me liom reitni;
ing, as I had proposed, to the cottage upon the Julian Alps.
Ou <|uestioning these iriars concerning the constitution ol" the repu'jlic of Bevio, the\
informed me that Bevio and X'almorara form one eomnumity, governed by elev^-U ma
giatrates, though the numlx r of voters who ajjjioint these magistrates scaredy exceed'
forty ; the chief is called Ministrale, and is confirmed every \'ear ; for which act of p(^
liteness each voter annually receives atlorin. About one-third of the merchandise lro;"i
Como to Coire passes by Bevio, but the greater part is sent Ijy Sphigen. After dir.ner }
returned o\er the Julian Alps to St. Morezzo.
LKTTKR LXXIL
Upper Eni^adiKu....lit'V(r... . Ziitz..^SLani/)J',
Zutz, Align;.', f 4 .
I'he ri'le from St. Morezio to Zutz, through Celerina, Samada, Ponto, and Ma-
diilein is extremely pleasant. Tliese villages lie chiefly upon the sides of tile mountains
gently rising above a plain, which in some parts is a mile broad, in others so narrow a^.
lobe entirely occupied by the Inn. The valley is enclosed on both sides bv aeluiinot
Alps, covered for a considerable height with woods interspersed witli pasture, Mid capped
1
&()2
r 0 V I'.' ;'■ 1 11 W T I, 5 I V r, W I I 1 1 It L A N J^,
wi,U Mu.u . -llK- rivor, ul.irl, lu re is Ircc Horn r.taraots. is joined Ijy i.mu.ucrahlc t,.r
anis .hat rush clown th. sicK s nl tl.c rn-ks, or l.urM Ir.MU tlu: Kmu.vl
'Hk. Inn clnrini- its nmuTc ss in this |>;.ri. is very ut«hU' n o,t of he nvtrs uhich
tr.x I in m mr tour. The Uhon. the U- uss. and the Aar. r)r ..isK.na". (M ^^^
Kir o rc^. i.Ku;o.,ti.u,alcut.ract,ova- lV.f;nuM,ts of rook, and thron,h ^^^'^l;^^
Tn\uZ\vlu\\ tracts ofcou.xrv ; uh.k this river directs .ts course ilno-.^h a cultivate
;: a;sd:sln;.,inane.,M-;i.leunbrokcns^.un. '^^^^ -^X^^^T:^^!\'^
it. bcauli. s of a n.ild'- r cast than usual in these Alpnie rcKinns. I he hur;.r Is, o. ilU^'c s,
:; Ikalantlv dotted al...t the ,>I,nn. at tlu distant of a n.Ie Irom -^; ;;^ - = -^^^;
li-r consist-; of a cln.ur nf filiv or a hundrul houses ol stone, i)lastaet and \yimc
i^ ^d n^ h Ihesp.mol
IX^ id is so „ .Krai in Upper Kn^a<lina, that I scarcely ohserv.donHMd hou|^
;h^;l;J^hc^vhok■ d.st'rict, and c.ea' the l.arus a,e as,.)ud as the coila^. s in ma.,) coua-
"■' As I was ridi..^ through Bever du- ck.-^;yma.,. who was ^^^^^''^ ';!;' .I'jl^';,::^,;;^
door stopped n.e with a n.n.plimu.t, and inv.ted .uc to sc h.s „!>..; 1 ' .^l« U
To;.U tl nd look, d over Ins coikction. H.- shewed n.e -J'"^; •">^"' ^^''^W^f
^anv in'ihe Uouun.sh lan,,.aKe, pa.-ticularly tiK ^ l>'l>'n^n..tecl a C ;n ■• • - :^^
catcd to (u(.r-e the Sc.-o.id when prince ol U'aUs. He a ho oIn,,M.;/,..| ^y<■ -P- u
me mtlewa^; and about halfa .uik IVom IVv.r pointcdrmt '. -'M^' i;- ^ ,; ^
Allrs Ani^nus where tlK dcpn.es of tiK two commnn.tus OIL pper 1m^:,mJ.^.^^^^,s^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
thr the p.;;poseofdecidi.,^, .n the last resort, ..ppes ... ctv.1 ^;;>';;-^^j\^^^^
ho desiacl me to ol)serve a small spr.ng, nlueh ialls nUo the ' ;,{ ^ .^"i^*-^,;;"";, '
source ; it is calkd Ko.itana Mc rla, and would .,ot Ik worthy ol "' tKx, did t . ot sc u^
atethJtwo c:onunu.,ities of Upper K,.i,.Khna. Soon '' ^^'■^^'^^^;,1^,, /""V'^^^^^^^^
derirvma.,, mou.md n,y horse, and proceeekd to Zut. I V^^^^^^ .^' "were co^
oviThridLHS of sin.^k' an lies, Nvhidi have a very striking' appearance ; ihcy uere con
s'ruc' e n e 1.1 s^^^ he fanious (^,ruhen.nan,t a..d \n Uk same style ol arclutecturc us
K ;^i i;^ o sia-allhausen a.ul \\'etti,.,en, e^ccpti.., d.atthey ^^^P}^^^^^^
yut-^ lUhouLd, not the largest, is tstiemed the principal place of Upper LiH^aUma,
bcf:^'i^ imll^^s the criminal court of justice. S'lic Landa.n.ua.i <> ^;;;^. -n m
Mul. who always presides in this court, is chosen every o her turn liom the 1'"" X /^»
n aJlallheditZutz: this peculiar privilege. -'-'^ S'^V" l^lru Ld U i
onsielerable inHuencc in the political aHai.-s () this coumry was 'v'^^' '> ' ;^" ^f^„ f J
bishop of Coire, who was u.kIc to o.ie of the Piantas. O., ^l^^^f^^^^ \^;^
unon M Planta, formerly envoy from the republic ol iIk Cnisons to tlut ol v u lu »
hj; wai^piiilel to that embass/ in order to rc.KW the ancient Mj- w^-cMKjd l.m
interrupted by the last treaty of 17C.3. between the empress ol ^^^^' "^^ ^y '^"^^
sons ; iud on u hich occasion the N'oKtians were so nui.h enrat^^d as ^^.f I \Vr.'t riitv
from their territories. This ncKotiation however, though conducted wih great abU ly,
^s nefll^tild .. Planta rcceivedme with great politeness u.ul f-^'^'^^^^^ •-;^
me to supper, a.id, as the evening was not set m, he accompanied inc to what is calkd
the camp ol Drusus, which 1 u as desirous ol cxummmg. .,„„,.,„ ,,„,i Uroiher
You recollect the campaign whicii Drusus. the adopted son of Augustus, ''"^ L.ro '^^^
of Tiberius, caiTkd on against the fierce i.ihabita.its ol these mountumou. couiUrKS .
•md to which Horace, in compliment to his patron, has alluded:
• Tills bil)lcis iiulu- (li iK-n ofihu Gray League
t Sfc Vol. I. LcU. 2. Mid 1^.
\Mi IS tiir. (Oi'Mny i>r nii. ';Riau.v4v
U'.)
iililc tur
i whic l» I
fall, ni "U
most \vM
■iiltivaud
sfiuf, and
r villat^i's,
; each vil-
)(l whitc-
u spirit ol
had house
any coun-
■'pc at his
I uif^ht.cd
looKs, and
■his 'Icdi-
.'i>'p.j;;tricd
jU'C < .lied
anssrniijle
;tk; furihci
Ls iVom its
; not sipa-
javc of the
vcral times
were con-
hitecturc as
crcd.
Engadina,
to Kontiina
ic liunily of
mily no in-
ranted by u
tz 1 waited
of Venice j
ii had been
nd the Gri-
tbe Grisons
rreat ability,
and invited
hat is called
and brother
s countries ;
DuMiiu j^i riiiiiiii It Viinltli' I ,
Al|>il>"i'» inM*'">' *■* tri'ii^ru'l.f
DrjttU ikiir pliii \ki^ ^itiiplu I
rius campaiKn of Dn.sns a^,^^nlst the Uheitiaiis was attend, d u ith ^'-^['''^'"^''^'^^
Ji.feat(dtl'rba.l.ar<msii.lnbitai.tsJ,elMredeenK(lnneoniiuerable(nul.mut<.v,.H KIwttos,
with meal slaiiL-l.ter. 'I"he supposed remains of his ean»p consAsl of several deep pits,
and a mound of earth about thirty feet hitrh and sixty paces .ucireunjlerence. I iuvr
works did not apinar to me to be of Uoniaii construction ; Sliuk proI>ably a rude lot-
tifuation thrown up duriu^r the turbulent times, uhen the barons ot the country weT-
cnu^nnd in perpetual acts of hostility : a desire to render them venerable by the re-
moteness oUluir oriKin, and the splendour ol' the Roman name, serms die oulv causr
of their beinj; attributed to Drusus. I In in^r satisfied m.^ eunosiiy I returned to /aU;..
and passid an agreeable cvenmir with M. IManta.
Scfjui/i/", .liifi'usf 3
The little burphs in these parts are situated at sueh small distances from each other
tint mv daily iournies are scarcely so much as a morninfr\ walk, and I am sodjliK'htea
with the country and its inhabitants, that 1 could willingly take Uj) my abode here loi
some time longer. On my arrival at Sca.npf I carried a letter ol reeommend lUon to
M Perini; who introduced me to M. Aporta, the clergyman ol the place, a native ol
Lower Kngadina, of the ancient and illustrious lankily of Aporta. He studied* soiue
time at Deprezin in Hungary ; but returning to his native couutr> , was soon atterwards
appointed pastor of Scampf. His income is sn.all, scarcely amoummg to 201.1- per an-
nim, and et Ins living is esteemed one .)f the l)est m hngadina; with tins modeiatc
rcv.nne he maintains a wife and large family. His chief work, which is a sut hcienl
nroof of his extensive knowledge and indefatigable industry, is die history ol he re
formation amont,^ the Grisons, in two volumes .piarto. It i. u ritlen in Latin, uud com-
DJled with LT. at imparlialits and exactness ; the sty K is classical and perspicuous. 1 Im.
excellent publication is not merely confmid to ecclesiastical transactions; lor as the
iairs of religion are intimately blended u ith political exen.s the latter mak.^ no mcon
•iiderable figure in e\ers hisiorv of the reformation. The reader will hud in M. AlK.ria s
nerforinance a minute and faithlnl account of the animosities between I ranee and Spam,
In relation to the Grisons, of the rebellion in the V.lteline, of the massicre ol the 1 lo-
lestants, and of the subsicpu nt war carried on under the semblance ot religion. 1 Ins
imeresting iiarrali\e eom) rehuuls almost all the important events in the history ol tlie
Grisons, Iromthe beginning of the relormation to the peace of die Vahehne.
I look up with reverence to thi.s learned audior, fcr his unwearied industry m com-
pleting so laborious a work with little eueonragi ment, and under all the disadvantages
vvhich arise from a ditiiculiy of procuring books, and straitened circumstances. All that
he cverol>tained, except fime, was a present of twenty-live guineas, which en ibled hnn
to bear his expences to Zurich, for l\w purpose of c.hecting materials Iro.n die manu-
scripts in the pnl)lic librarv. Ti.e work, printed at Coire, at the expenc; ol tiie typogra-
phical society, has never produced any emolument to the author, 1 his respectable
♦He vcccivecl his tdiicution, 1 be-ru'vc, in tlie- University of Basic.
t CoUbidcriMK tilt (lilVfivia ino.lcb of iWuv^, iuul elilVcvcat value of moucy, tlus sum ;i pcrhap.
cqeiivule'iit lo about Out iu Eiii,'l;vncl.
•.M
I' MSI, :i I !• \\ I r 'i IN ;i\\ 1 1 ;.i.i' i. - •. ,,
tli\iiv', III .i»l.; a I'lltical l;itou!i(l|;c of tlw hnriicd l:iiif';ii:ij!;c>, iir.(U;>; iiul . .mil >i/i*:\U.*
(t:iliiiM and (icnuaii, is i\\)W tn riad rnivli, atul has soitu' acr|iiaint inrc with iht liiiti-
;jariaii and W allachi an l(ini;ius. Diirin,; the litllt tinv I pa^sid in his ra)n\|»any, I had
iiKjiunl lll•(^l^i()^ to Im inrpiiscd at his iirolMnnd ( t udition and roinptxhin .iv .ihilitiis,
null an» particiil.iily iiulibud lo I.iin \<n- nmch <\a't niConriation concxrnin;; ti.r Hu
nmsli tongm, the {j;(.nu'al |)nrp(ai(.r V. hii h I shall transmit to you in a fntnrc Ictttr.*
t'ppcr Kni^adiiia is divided into two toniniiiniiiis, ralUd Sotto and SopiM Fontana
Mill.', lirim till ir situation ;il)n\c or In low that sprinir. Tluy h.i\( hoth the Miinc ronrl
•A ( riniin;.! jnStii f, w hich is IkUI at /.ut.:, ind consists of the I-,andaniinan ol Sotlo, who
I, piisidtnt, and si\fcin jnrNnun, calkil Tronador", t.ikcn c(|iially IVoni each district,
'ii.s'.iec is more ifpiitahly adminisUivd in this court ihaii in any other throuj^hout thr
1 iris, ns, rsci ptin^,' at Coire; a circunistaiu'e whicli arises I'wm the foliowinj^ causes.
Tile code ol criminal laws was comiiosed in 15(j.j hy Juv.ilta who had \n\\\ envoy from
the n pnijiio of the (iiisonb to Wnice, and had there imbibed more enlarged con-
(•( ptidiis (if jmispindence, than at lh;)t time pn Aallul amon^' his rude countrymen
Tiiis eM'tJhnt ti)(h Mas (ha\vn up in Litin, and in Kill was translated int<j Uomansh
The hni s injoincd for criminal otU m es ilo not bilonj^ to the juilj^'cs, but the commu-
nity ; til.' ( vpcneis of the process arc di frayed, and a salary is allowed to the judj^cs
from till jinl/iic fund; the jiid}>esliy these means bc'ii!;: n<»t so mue!\ interested to eon
%ict the prisoner, are not so read} to employ the liurrid expedient of torture for the
pur|)ose (,f enforcing conftssion.
Another cause of ijie e(juiiy (jbstrvable in this court is the mode ofelectiuf^; tiie judges
tlu\ are luil, as in many otlur eonununilies, chosen by the pople collecti\cl} assembled,
luit by sixteen dcpuliis, who ri nresent the sexeral districts. Uy these nieans the elec-
tion is carried on with more pru.hne^, and wi'hagreater attention to the qualiricalions ol
the judges than can be expected amielst the con.'usion of a popular meeting.
'J'lu same deputies choose all the civil mai-^istrites by a majority of voices, and finally
■.kcide ail legislative and political f|Ueslionb, which have before been separately proposed
'<) their se veral districts. Their constituents have the power (which they freeiuently
e xercise) of peremjitorily dire ctiiig their vote. It is, howeve r, no inconsiderable allevia
'.ion (ji tile- mischiefs freepienll) attendant on governments jjurciy democralical, that the
whole bod\ of the poi)ulace on no occasion assemble upon one s|)ot ; but discuss matters
iu eletached parties, and sejid the result of their deliberations by their representatives.
Upper j'jigadiiui i. a very beautiful valley, yet, on account of its elevation, produces
uolhing but [)asture aid a small (piantiiy of rye and barley. The winter sets in early
and ends late, during which time sledges are the ordinary vehicles. The air, even at
the present season, is cold aid piercing, and the ce)rn in the midst of summer is occa-
"■ionally niuch damaged by the hoar-frosts ; hence the Italian proverb,
llnij.ieliiui Ti-iTii riaa, bc tioii fosse Ui pruina.t
M'he district not yielding suflicient productions for the sustenance of the inhabitants,
many migrate into foreign countries ; the gentry in tlie military line, as is comuKin in
Svvitzerlaid, olliers ii the capacity of mechanics, tr..iksmen, and merchants, their fa-
vourite occupation is to keep cofRe-henises e;r pasiry-cocjk shops in ditlerent parts of
Italy and France'. Cienerally two persons enter into partnership to carry on the same
trade; one remains in !iis own country, the other attends the business for a year, when
he is relieved by his partner, and returns to his family for the same term. These part
LlUci' '."».
t llii(;ueliiia w'luld bo a fine couMi'v if there was vo hoaT-fr*-
i.vj) IN riiE Cf)ifN»i»'. Di 11(1 ';«;i80vi.
90.>
.1 >i.i'.ik.t
!)( lliiii-
1} , I lud
.ibiltticH,
tur.*
I'oiitiina
ini. court
itto, who
I district
,lK)Ut tlir
\r CllUSlS.
voy from
•yr(d con
ntrynun
{oiuansh
conimu-
c judjrcs
d to ton
re lor the
c judges
iscmblcd,
the dec-
L-ations ol
ind finally
proposed
reiiuently
lie allevia
I, that the
ss matters
tativcs.
produces
b in early
r, even at
r is ocea
[habitants,
jmrnciu in
,, tlieir fa-
it parts of
the same
ear, wiien
hesc part
iLi-> if*: commonly .is faithful an nuIustriouN , tl»cv aniiii ill) hriuf^ ronsidcril»l( .-.urns of
money into this thstrirt, whieh in c^tretmil tin riehtst anioii|; ilie (irisons.
M I'ny of the inhahiimii feed nuim lous hi ids of eatllc i'» the sumiau' inomh> nnoi.
ihc Uppi-r Alps, uid esporl larf!;c (piantities of rhu. ■<• and butter; in aututuii, wn< r;
pasture bii^ins to be s(.:irix, they sttul fi;rcat part of the cuttle for salt; into llu T) roj
They live much upon ,..lf«d meat, particularly in u inter, on acrounl of the deanussof
fodder. 'I'lie bread of tin; country i<i mostly bro'.vnisli ; it is baked in little round cakes,
only two 01 three times i;i the year, and beeomes so hard that it is sometimes broken
with the h;itehet ; ii i-> not an unpleasant food with cheese v>r butter, which arc very
Common. 'I'he juintipal part of tlu- butter is made on the Alps; it is afierwarch,
melted, put into bottles, ai.d frequently continues ^ood durinjj; the whole year. Tlu
wine of the V'altcline ii mucii esteemed, and is bj no mi ans scarce in this country ; if
bears keepinjr to a very considerable at;e ; 1 have lasted some wine from the cask of u
very line ilavour, about fifty years old, although it yrows sour in the space of three
years in the warm climate of the Valteline.
The people are, for the most part, rtmarkably polite and well-bnd; they bow to me
as I pass with great civility, and will pertorm any kinii ottices in the readiest and most
oblifijing maimer. I am indeed no less delightccl with the politeness and hospitality ol
the inhabitants, than with the romantic scenery of the country. Although many of the
natives spend a great portion of their tiuie in foreign parts, they seldom lose their at.
tachmenl to I jigadinu ; and return with great eagerness to their family and friend*
after their occasional absence.
The inhabitants of U|)per Kngadina are computed at about fimr thousand, and out ol
these, four or five hundred, upon an average, earn their livelihood in foreign countries
LKTTKR LXXIII.
Lower Engn(Una...,Ccrnctz..,.nitl<ln^..,.C(unf)('l,...Trasf).,..Rnnus.„. Entrance into thr
Tyrol,,,, Santa Afaria,
Crnu'tZy Auffitst 4.
THE valley of Upper Engadina, from Celtrina to a i<:\\' miles beyond Scainpf, is
nearly level ; it is enclosed between two ridfjes of mountains, which are most elevated
at Celerina, and graduallj- diminish in height anil ruggedness. About Zut;^ and Scanipf
is the finest part of the valley : it there produces some rye and [)arley, and the moun-
tains arc clothed with verdure to their very summits. Beyond Scampf the plain ends;
and the river Inn, which had hidicrto winded in a gentle course, is contracted into u
narrow channel, and falls in continual cataracts. The road ascends and descends along
the sides of the mountains, and the country is Uiickly overspread with woods of (ir
and pines.
I passed through several villages similar to those descri!)cd in the preceding letter,
and near Brail I crossed a small bridge thrown (jver a |)recipicc overlooking a toaming
cataract: it is called in the language of the country Pont Alta, or High Bridge, and
forms the sejjaration between Upper and Lower Engadina. i'lven if the limits of ilic
two districts h^id not been thus marked out, the sudden alteration of the njad, for the
worse, would have kd me to suspect that I had quitted U[)per Engadina. The road
from the lake oi' Siglio to Pont Alta is like our turnpikes in England, and sunicieiitly
broad to contain two or three carriages abrest ; no common circumstance in thesf,-
mouiitainous regions. It has been lately madi , in consetpieiiee of a proposal from thr
house of Austria, as the late treaty of Milan, to improve the roads leading through tlu
VOL. V. 5 a
Juf.
.; 1 > ■> 1^
inAVLr... IN swiTZF.Rr.ANj;*.
PrcQ-.lia M'ul tlK Uvo r.n:;:ul„K.s, thai ihe incrchancllso to and from Prca^aUu nu-iit br
;r!o!ip<:;.:.i;U.is uay Uu:n,hthc Tyrol, instead of bc.ng earned, us U u, at present.
'''tIu' Imusrol- Anslri:,oll.rcdtc.«UlVavthe m1,o1. cxpcncc of this u.uWrtakinp: The
iuh, itan.s of U,..pvr 1 :ni..dina d. chn.n.s xvith a sp.ril of d.s.nt.Tcsted.Kss rarely to c
I , den. • tic-al siates, the oiRr of indemniiicalion. earned the plan into exee -
on w l.in tlulr.uv. .errirolies ; In., .he intr„nes of the e.tr.ens ol Co.rc whose ..
te s nld have suHl.vd l,^ .he new arra.i^^ aunU, together w.th an inveterate persua.
su>n h r. d roads uouid render the eonn.ry too aeccss.hle to the nughhounng-
n er Ireve. ted ihe peoi.le of IVeKalia and Lower Kngadnia Iro.n co-opera n.g ni
i; :;: n:M p'^; "; accJvdilly that part of this road which runs through thctr d^strtct.
'•"a:;: elo'nlg Alit'' Aha, I pas.ed along a wild and almost.uninhahited t-ct of H^n:.
un il I .eaehed Cc rnet., wlu re 1 an, now eundortably lodged ni the house o M. 1 lanta.
1- t . lenu-n is at hi's govern.nent of Morbegno, i.. dn- V altehne ; but 1;- ";?;;--
denlallv nut uie at Chiaven..a. he ki),cUy gae me a letter ol recommendation to h.s
uncle, 'who would not i)ermit me to eontnnie at the mn.
Ce .KU is situated in a small ..eh plain, bou.Kled by two ru ges of mounta ns con-
vei^ng at both extrenuties: it produces wheat, barley, rye, flax, j'V^^!''^"'" ''V^^.,,^j
rich a^ture. 1 feel an essential d.fterence between the e nnalc of this l.tde plaii. a.ul
ha .Upper Kngadina ; it is nnieh waruKr, and has all Us natural prodv.ct.ons m eh
M. adumeed towards matnri-y. Large cpuu.tit es o wood are <^ f^^l »P"^ j]^
ountains, and Boated dow., the Inn as far as U.spruek. In th.s p am the Inn . om d
bv he large torrent Sp.clg, that descends fron> the mountau.s ol Bonn.o ; by thes.de
o this orrent, and at \he' extremity of a .K.rro^v pas. lead...g to Bor.mo and Mu.is r I
ob<^rved a square tower, which in 1024 the nuixjuis de Crcuvres garrisoned vuth a
bodv of Fre. eh a.id Grison troops, i.. order to cheek the Austrum anny posted at
Munster. The pass is still further fortified by a sto.ie wall, carried from the i<.ot ot an
inaccessible rock to the tower, and from thence to the torrent.
The marc.uis de Ca^uvres to whom die gu.rd of this importa.it pass was commuted
^vas son" he marquis d'Ktrees ; he was bred up to the church, and created b.shop o
No^• m • bt.t up n ?he death of his elder brother renounced the eeclesiast.eal hue, and
Tn^b ac^d t e pCfession of ar.ns. He disti-iguished himself in several ea.T.pa.g..s under
He. rv the Founh, a..d u as aiterwards enq>loyed in the re.gn ot Louis he rhirtecnth as
anVb - dor to Tu in and Home, l.i 1624 he was appoi.Ued ambassador extraordinary
o tlK Republic of the Orisons, and commander in chie of an army of Jre.Kh and
Su" s troips, se.U to the assistance of the Orisons dur..ig the war ot the Valtelme. He
i.enetrt"d through Coire into Lower Kngadi.ia, and seized, without delay, this . mpor-
ut mss^^l^^^ w^^^ ma..c.uvre he secured the only avenue le.K hng to Bormio, the
r dua bn'o "w nch place was followed by the subnussion of the Vj^tehne I or tlu.e
Sor ant services the ma.-quis, o.. his return to France w..s created due ^'Et ccs a. d
rS to the highest honours. He died in 1070, in the hundred and seco.id year of
^'uSploved the greater part of this morning in maki.ig extracts from cambel's ae.
Jmo\ the Orisonl esteemed the best topographical and pohttcal history oUhis ccnmtry
vet extant, it is written in Latin, has never been pnnted, and is very rarelv met u th.
h cft^ good fortu..e to fnul a copy in the library of count Firmian at Milan, who
V tifth readiness to oblige which pe;:uliarly distinguished his character. P-mi ted me
'o consult it. Mv stav ut Mila.i being very short, and employed in other researches, I
ANt) IN I HE COl'Nil!. Ui 1 II E C;RIJON
DOV
I nusjht br
at prtsciu.
king. The
rarely to be
into txicu-
', whose in-
rate pcrsua.
(.i_<rlil)Ouriiig'
operating in
icir clibtriet.-,
ract of forcP^
if M. Plaiita.
having acei-
dation to his
untains con-
binidance of
;tle plain and
iciions much
1 upon these
Inn is joined
; by the side
d Munster, I
ioned with a
my posted at
he foot of an
is committed,
\ted bishop of
Lical line, and
npaigns under
Thirteenth as
extraordinary
f French and
''alteline. He
y, this impor-
) Bormio, the
ic. For these
d'Etrces, and
econd year of
1 carnbel's ae-
of this comitry
rely met with,
t Milan, wlio,
permitted me
r researches, I
Had not made so good an use of this iudul!;cnee as I could have wished ; and ..s I have
now found the same work in M. l'lania\ library, I embrace this opportunity of perusing
the most interesting parts, which has i^iveii me great insight into the geography, hisKjry
and government of this eountrv.
Iluldric Campel, the author" of this valuable work, was born in the beginning ot th.-
sixteenth centurv at Suss, in Lower Jlngadina, and made an uncommon prolici* no.y m
every species of literature. He was one of the tarrust reformers in this country, and be-
ean\c bv his active ijeal, as well as by his extensive erudition, the chief instrument in
spreading the reform uion through this district. An event of small cons(C[Mence, which
happened in liis family, gave rise to tlie sudden and wide dissemination of the new doc
trines, and elided in tiiealjolitioa of the Uoman Cadiolic religion.
Being absent, in 15.37, upon the prosecution of his studies, his wife was delivered ot u
daughter, who seemed upon the point of expiring. Gaspar Campel, father of Huldric,
a man strongly attached to die reformed doctrines, refused to have the child christened
by the popish priest of the parish, and would not suifer even the miduives to sprinkle
it according to the custom of the llomish church, with holy water ; and. as there was no
reformed minister at hand, pelbrmed the ceremony of baptism himself. The llomaii
Catholics of Suss, in abhorrence of this act, assembled in a tumultuous manner, and at-
tacked Gaspar with such fury, that he narrowly escaped assassination. His enemies then
brought an accusation against him before the diet, which at lir^t referred the cause to ar
bitralion; but no satisfactory decision being obtained, a public conference was ordered
to be held in the church of Suss, before deputies from the several communities, upon the
following question, "Whether, if a child is born and likely to die before a priest can
be sent for, the baptism performed by a layman was preferable to that by midw iyes ?"
This ridiculous inquiry led to discussions of great moment ; the reformed minister^
refused to acknowledge any authority but the Holy Scriptures ; while the Catholics
considered the writings of the fathers and decrees of the church as infallible. Kach
party thus regarding every point through a diHiirent medium, could not be induced to
admit the arguments of its antagonist, and the dispute lasted seven days with little pros-
pect of a satisfactorv conclusion. Fortunately, however, an accommodation was stim-
mariiy adjusted bv the moderation (;f the deputies; they decided that, in cases of ex-
treme necessity, where no priest was present, either a layman or the midwives might
baptise, and that the layman was preferable to the midwife : but what was of the ijreat-
est consequence, they d'ecreed that, in regard lo the other controverted points (M faith de-
bated in thecourseof the argument, every person might safely hold lli a doctrine, whicli
from full conviction he was persuaded to be the word of God.
This conference was productive of the most bendleial i iVects ; for tlie people, u ho
Hocked thither in great numbers, were ♦.aight to consider the Holy Seriptuies as the
only authority incontroverted questions. The tendency of this maxim is obvious; in
fact, it produced such rapid eilects that, within the space of twenty years, the Reforma-
tion was completely established throughout* Engadina.
To return to Huldric Campel ; he not only api)roved his father's conduct in the ail'air
of his daughter's baptism, but became a zealous proseh te to the new doctrines. Ha^ :.ig
entered into holy orders, he undertook the care of a reformed church in the valley of
Prctigau, where'he was indefatig.ibie in the peri'urmance of his duty, and the projutga-
tion of the Protestani religion. In 1550 he was drawn to Suss by the friends of the
Reformation, as a person the most (jualiiied to combat the Roni:in Catholic eliureh.
• r.\i'f])t'ni^' the "nv.M vilhii^c of Saiuun
''08
VOXI'U rPvAVELf. IN aWIT7,EnLAND,
Jlis hihouii. uct aUduktl with siuli suortss, that, a short time- after his appearance i,.
his native place, mass was aliolished, and the a Ibrmuiiou piibhcly adopted. Nor was
Suss the sole theatre of his exertions ; atCenutx, and several other places, the persua-
sion ol his elocpnnee, and the force of his argutumts, f,'ained muneroiis converts.
He passed the decline of his life at Sehlins, where he was pastor, and persevered tn
ilic last period of his existence in disscminatinij: and defendiu^^ tlu' doctrine of the re
Ibrnied churches, as ably with his elocpience as he recommeniled them by his example.
Amidst the occupation of relij^ious duties, he found leisure to continue his history of
the Orisons to 1580. He died the following '< year at Sehlins in an extreme old age.
Iraving a name highly respectal>!e in the religious and literary annals of this country.
The history ol* Ciur.pel consists of three volumes. The first dwells chiefly ()n the
topographv of the (irisons, and describes the diflercnt districts and towns ; it likewise
delineates 'the nature e)f the several governments, and the various forms of civil and
criminal jurispniden'-r in the peity rei)ublics into whie-.h this country is subdivideel. The
second volume eompiises the hisiorv of Rhnetia, from the earliest period to the Suabian
war in 1499, under the emperor iV'l\ximilian I; the materials arc chiefly drawn from
Tsehudi, Slumpf, and other Swiss historians. The third volume, in which the history
is brought de)u n to his own time s, is the most interesting and authentic. Canipel having
submitted his work to the examination and correctifjn of BuUinger and Simler, pre-
sented, in 1577, a copy to the diet of the three leagues, and received public thanks.
But as his own fortune was inadeejuate to the cxpences of publication, and as no book-
seller \vonld undertake to print so voluminous a work, it has never been given to the
world.
Jicmus, Au(fust 4.
rhe road from Ccrnetz to Scuol is a continual ascent and descent, and so rocky and
bad, that 1 employed above eight hours in riding only twenty miles. 1 he small plain
of Ccrnetz soon ends, and is succeeded by a rude assemblage of rocks and forests.
Suss is situated in a narrow pass between the river Inn and a ridge of rocks a little be-
neath the ruins of an old castle : close to it is a small fertile plain, which agreeably di-
versified the wildness of the rocks and forests.
The road to Ardetz follows the course of the Inn, which murmurs below in a deep nar-
row channel, heard but not seen. From Ardetz (over which hangs, upon a lofty rock,
a ruined castle called Steinberg) I descended a very steep craggy path to the Inn, which
1 crossed, and mounted a rapid ascent, lea\ing on my right hand the valley of Scharla,
in which are silver mines belonging to the house of Austria, formerly ricii and yield-
ing a considerable advantage, but now exhausted. I passed through the straggling vil-
»age of Trasp, close to a castle of the same name, situateC: apon the highest point of a
perpendicular rock. Count Dietrichstein, as lord of the castk , is a prince of the Ger-
man empire ; it was given to his family by the emperor Leopold, on condition that its
possessor should alwavs vote in the diet of the c mpire for the house of Austria ; the for-
mality of a garrison is'maintained by a single Austrian soldier. From Trasp I again de-
scended to the river, crossed it and ascended it to Scuol, where I arrived late, and set off
carlv this morning.
Fre)m Seuol to Remus the mountains on the left slope gradually, and are richly cul.
tivated ; producing great quantities of wheat, rye, barley, flax, and hemp ; the trees
are chiefly pines, 'lirs, and small birch, intermixed with underwood of nut-trees and
• Some authors place his death iu 158*
ANl* IN l"L lOl'NlRY 0> Mil. .;RI50N
ifW
ranee ii.
»Ior was
pcrsua-
vcred tn
* the re
xamplc.
istury of
old age.
itrv.
• oil the
likewise
ivil and
:d. The
Suabian
VII from
: history
^l having
ler, pre-
thanks.
10 book-
:n to the
Utqust 4.
)cky and
lall plain
I forests,
little be-
cably di-
deep nar-
fty rock,
n, which
' Scharla,
id yield-
gling vil-
)oint of a
the Ger-
n that its
the for-
again de-
nd set oiF
chly cul-
the trees
;recs and
wild roses. The corn fields are raised in ^nidations (if I may so express m>sd() alon.^
The s dcs of the hills, like the vineyards in the Pay. de Vaud. The ndges ol the moun-
tains on the riirht lK>'..KUhe Inn are steep, and in many places perpendicular, with little
"^'irirnowtirvSame; and I have observed several clergymen employed in reaping
the corn. The cK rgv are verv poor in Lower !• ngadina, and are more numerous t^ian
n any other part of tl\e Orisons.' The income of no benefice amotints to more than 20 .
per annum ; that of the inferior '-.-.res to little more than 81. and this scanty pittance s
sometimes subdivided among two or thie. clergymen, or as many as happen to be un-
provided for in the same parish. ^. . . • i .i i • i, ^,„.. k..
* I stopped at Remus to bait my horses. Near it is a ruined castle which once I c
long dti the bishop of Coire, and was given.by one of the former prelates to he P antas
of Zutz ; in right of which donation tluy claim the priviU-ge o administering the oath
to d e Landanuiian of Sotta Tasna. The only remains of this cast e are two scpiare
iLers, -rone of which is a miserable apartment, ^vhere M. Planta gives un annual dm-
ner to the Landamman. . . , , .; „ , . ,i.,.
Lower Kngadina is divided into three communities, which send three deputies to lie
general diet. The first is composed of the parishes of CVrnetz, Suss, Lav,,. Cniarda.
fnd Ardetz ; the second comprises Vettan, Scuol, and Sent, and the t urd contains Re -
mus, Sehlins, and Samun. The two former communitiei make one High .luriscliction i
and the third forms another with Bevio, Valinunra, and Avers.
In civil causes there arc two separate courts of justice, *^ie for that part of tlic cotintry
which lies to the north, the other for the district to the soud. ol the torrent lasna, iron
wh ic the two parts arc called Sopra and Sotto Tasna : from e^ch ot tliese courts here
nes an appeal, nthe last resort, ti the civil tribunal of Sotto Fontana Merla in Uppe
Engadina%r to the neighbouring community of the valley o Munster In crini.na
causes there are likewise two distinct courts, but without appeal ; one lor the tract to tht
north of the mountain Faloii, another for the region to the soudi : according to this divi-
sion the two parts are denominated Sopra aiKl Sotta Montfalon.
By this complicated arrangement Vctlan is connected widi Scuol and Sentinpo.itica
concerns, in civil aftairs with Scuol, Sent, Remus, Sehlins, and Samun, m crmun.l
causes with Cernetz, and the other towns of the first community. 1 his mlcrnuxturc
of various interests creates such an intricacy in the election of deputies niag.-,lraies,
judges, both civil and criminal, as would be uninteresting ior me to duail, or lor jou
^°Onc"circumstance, however, cannot fail to strike the most inattemive inquiivr ; that
although the mode of electing the judges is nearly the same with that ol Um^-r hnga-
dina, yetjusticeisbyno means so impartially administered. I cannot iorlicar ascribing
this n4terial difference, in an affair of such importance, to the different condition ot the
two people ; the inhabitants of the Upper iMigadina, being more enlightened and affluent
than their neighbours, are less open to the iniluence of illiberal prejudices and ixtty eor-
"^^ p!iav runs very high both in Upper and Lower Engadina : there are some consider-
able families in these' districts, of \vhich the principal are those oi Desa is and 1 lanta,
both subdivided into numerous collateral branches. The history ol this country is
filled widi the disputes and struggles between these rival houses, and presents m nuuiy
periods little more tium an unilorm picture of domestic lends, i he two parties are
distimniished by the appellations of Scarbonada, black, and Alba, white ; tlie tormei
devoted to the Plantas, die latter to the Desahses. ^^ ♦»^- '•-"" ■' '■''—'- ''- '' ""
.\t the time of elections for cl 'np
910
r.OXt's IRAVELS IN 5\\ 11 ZEU L A N I),
t"us and muj^istraics the inhabitants of Lower Kngaclina seldom abstain from blows,
wliich not uiilrc(]Mcntlv terminate in I)iood^.hcd.
1 ha\c niort; than once had oceasion to mention the superiority of politeness whieh
distingnislies the i:ihaljitants of Upper Enti;ailina I'rom those of the lower district. Tliis
pre-eminence probably arises from the constant emi.L^ration of the former into other (onn-
irics, and their intercourse wiih foreis^mrs. I find also a great difference in the comforts
of lift' in the two districts : although l^ower Kngadina produces necessaries abund.'nily
sufficient for interior consumption, )ct the inhabitants are less industrious, and consc-
(jiientlv p.oortr. In Upper Engadina I was always able to procure at the commonest
inns fresh meat, gr.od oil, and excellint wine, none of whieh I could obtain in the lower
district. The Nillages are lcsscommodi(JUs, and the houses of the peasants are also far
inferior in cleanliness, neatness and convenience. This difference probably proceeds, in
a certain degree, from the nature of the country: Upper Kngudina, yielding but few
productions, the inhabitants are obliged to seek from without some means of subsistence,
and industry once excited brings with it its usual companion, opulence ; on the contrary,
the soil of lower Kngadina, fertile in all the fruits of the earth, lays the inhabitants under
no necessitv of extraordinary exertion, and therefore has recourse to foreign trade.
Santa Maria, .t/ij^ust 5.
In my way from Remtis to St. M;irtin's bridge, being overtaken by a vk,1 ni siorm
of rain, 'I look shelter in a cottai^e, and was cheerfully received by a well-iookiig old
u oman ; my horse was put under a shed, and m> self safely housed from the peliing of
the shower. I found the rooms perfectly neat and clean, with much better furniture and
accommodations than I expected froni die external appearance of the cottage. The old
woman talked, besides Romansh, German and Iialian, and the latter remarkably well.
The storm continuing two hours without intermission, I held a long conversation with
iier, and was greatly pleased with the polite and ready manner with which she expressed
h( r'self upon 'different topics. Upon taking leave 1 made several apologies for having
dirtied her house, thanked her for her kind reception, and endeavouring to slip a piece
jf iTKMicy into her hand, was surprised at her declining to accept it.
All these circimistanccs exciting my curiosity to obtain some intelligence cor.oerning
;his elderlv person, 1 collected the following account : she is a native of Lower Enga-
dinu, of a 'good family, and formerly possessed a tolerable fortune; she married when
verv young, a nobleman of the first Umiily of Milan, who came into Eiigadina, renounced
the'liomaii Catholic, and embraced die Protestant religion. They lived for many years
in the greatest harmony, till having dissipated almost all her fortune, he one day took
leave of her, w ith a promise of returning in a siiort time. From that moment she never
saw nor heard from him, and was afterwards informed that he was gone to Italy, and had
turned monk ; upon receiving this information, his wife collected the scanty remains of
her fortune, and retired to die spot where I found her.
Towards the extremity of Lower Engadina I crossed the Inn which struggles through
a very narrow channel, between two ridges of high and rugged rocks, over St. M. a tin's
bridge, into die Tyrol. I here took a farewell of the Inn, which I had accomi)anied
froin its source. At St. Martin's bridge it forms the separation of Engadina and the
Tyrol; on receiving the torrent Schargenbach, it quits the territory of the Gri;,oas, and
passing ihroutrh the Tyrol and the Electorate of Bavaria, joins the Danube at Tassan uith
lio large a boelV of water, as to ecpial, if not surpass, the celebrated river in which it loses
its name; hence Scheuizer has laboured to prove, that the Danube may be said rather
to rise in the Klietian Alps than hi the mountains of Suabia.
Avn IN Tiir. cnvsMW o; vnr. <-;nir.ovr>.
9il
I-. the villn<-c of St. M iiin Unnvmsh is spoken ; on the .)thcr sitl- of tin; hnd-c
G(rmaii is the' com-uon 1. n-u;i!..v. I'n.m the stcrp h.mks (.f the Inn 1 ascenrkda hujh
niout.taiii, .!<)..- an e vex IK nt road, latelv lonned at the ( xpcnce ol llu- en.pe.or, to
fuilitatc llic (•(Munur-ieation hetween Milan and Tyfol. On the top 1 had a hne vuu
of the Inn and Lower K..K..dina, and t!i< n des.rnded to Naudets, where 1 (hned npor.
a cold foul, with vvhieh Mr. IManta had kindly snpplied my servant, and wuhunt which
prccaiiiion I should have made lull a sc.inty meal. , , <• , -i, «
From Nanders 1 traversed a small pleasant valley, bounded on tlie kit liy a nr.jre o.
mountains which separate tlu Tyn.l from Kn-adinu ; the valley is about a quarter ot a
mile broad, and almost level; it is covered with rich pasture, and watered by a lively
torrent that falls into the Inn. At the end of this valley 1 .^antly ascended to a ake.
one of the first sources of the Adi^a- ; beyond this is another lake, and t urther on u third ,
the banks of these lakes are prettily skirted with villages, at one ol which I passed the
"'Having a Iouq- day's iournev from thence to Bormio, I set otit at five this mornin.ir,
and proceeded by the side of the torrent which no\vs from the lakes and torms the Adige.
The country is agreeable, and in hi-h cultivation, especially xvhere it opens into a rich
and extensive view beyond Mais, which town 1 passed at a little distance on my lett
hand, and turned short into the road that leads to the valley ot iMunster. At the bot
torn of the first ascent I went through Laitch, which is subject in spiritual afiairs to the
bishop of Coire, in temporal to the house of Austria, and mounted along a rich val-
ley rising to Santa Maria. Tanven is the last village in the Tn rol where the mhabitanls
speak German ; a little beyond I passed die barrier, and again entered the territory ol
the Orisons, where Komansh is die common tongue.
Passing through Munster, which derives its name* from a monastery for women sup-
posed to have been founded by Charlemagne, I proceeded to Santa Maria, Iroin whence
1 am now writing. , . ^, ,t,, r^- r i
The valley of Munster conuiins Santa Maria, Munster, Valdera, Lierls, and seve-
ral other villages, which form a community in the league of God's House. Formerly
the bishop of Coire had considerable inlluence in the government of this valley ; justice
was admhiislered in his name, and he received the amercements for criminal oflences ;
but having violent disputes with the inhabitants, he sold these rights in 1727 to iheeni-
pcror Charles the Sixth. The republic of the Grisons, however, objecting to this
transfer of immunities, which thev considered as unalienable, the bishop was obliged to
repurchase and dispose of them to the inhabitants, who are now perfectly independent.
The people are divided into Catholics and Protestants ; tlie former inhabiting the town
of Munster, with its immediate dependencies, the otlurs the remainder ol the vallev ;
the magistrates and judges are chosen etpially from both p irties, who live together in
tolerable harmonv. The common language is the Romansh, the same as spoken in
Lower Engadina,' though not quiti so pure ; as, on account of its proximity to and con
nection with the Tyrol, it is blended u iih the German,
LETTER LXXIV.
Passage of Mount Bralio. ...County and Tozvn of Bormio.
Bormio, August 7
THE passage from Santa Maria to this place was very tedious, and would have been
attended with 'some danger had I been detained a day later; as the great quantity ©i
» Monasterium
'J12
OXLJ iH.Wt:.- \U aWHZtRLAM.,
V
rain, which now pours down without intermission, would have aiuUnd thi- Alpine
path's extremely slippery. 1 continued to ascend two hours from Santa Mana to the
top ol" Mount iJralio, which separates the valley of Munster horn the county ( 1' Uor-
mio. This body of Alps is supposed to he the same which Tacitus mentions under the
name ol' Juga U'hietica.* ! ascended the whole way by the side of the torrent Kamo,
the same which flows by Laitch, and falls into the Adigef below Mais ; I traced it to
its sf)urce, where it rushes from a glacier, amidst an enclosure of rocks. A few paces
further, near the summit of the Rralio, another torrent falls from the same glacier m a
contrary direction, and forms the first source of the Adda.
From this point a descent continues, with litlle interruption, to Bormio. The tops
')f tluse mountains produce no wood, but )ield excellent pasture; they were covered
with caiile. The most elevated parts are of granite, but not so fine grained as th.at
vvhich I observed upon the St. Goihard, and some of the other Swiss Alps. 1 then
went down a very narrow rugged path, and in an hour entered a small plain in the
countv of Bormio, about a mile in length, in the midst of which is a single house,
tcrmi d an inn, the first habitation I met with since I quitted the valley of Munster. 1
found no one within but a woman and two children, who spo^'i a corrupt Italian ; the
woman was greatly aflionted on mv iiupiiring if she talked Romansh ; being a Roman
Catholic, she seemed to consider it as a kind of heresy to understand that hmguagc.
I folU)wed the course of the Adda which Hows through the plain ; at first a small
torrent, but gradually increasing by a continued accession of water from the
neighbouring mountains. At the end of this small plain the descent recommences,
and the track from thence to Bormio is as craggy as the highest part of SwitzerLind,
Since I have travelled in the country of the Orisons, I have not yet met with such asco-
nishing scenes of wildness, horror, and majesty, as occurred in this day's journey.
Description generally fails in representing the most ordinary exhibitions of nature;
how inadequate then must it be to the singular comhinatinn of sublime objects, which I
>,hall now attempt to delineate? , ,, , .
I had no sooner cjuitted the small plain than I entered suddenly mto the most barren
ind desolate region ; on mv right hand huge piles of misshapen Alps, on my left a large
mass ol' ice and snow. Close to the path the Adda foams from precipice to precipice
in'broken cataracts ; lower down it shoots over a succession of natural steps, which seem
as if hewn by art ; at the distance of about a mile, it is contracted into a narrow chan-
iiel, through which it labours with incessant fury. Over this tremendous gulf is a
slight wooden bridge, partly supported upon a detached fragment of rock, and partly
suspended upon the sides of the opposite mountains ; as I passed over, it tottered with
m\ weight. I then continued upon the edge of a deep abyss, the Adda roaring beneath
though lio where visible, suggesting to my imagination cataracts more stupendous than
any i had hitherto seen. Its channel is ci t perpendicularly in the rock which has
evidently been hollowed to the depth of some hundred feet by the attrhion of the
tvaters. . , , , . • v,
1 now arrived at a barren spot, where die vale was entirely closed by an impassable
mountain : a stream bursts from a small opening in the rock, and then expanding as it
falls, forms a considerable torrent, foaming amidst vast fragments of stone. I turned
suddenly to the left, by an opening through which the Adda seems to have forced a
passage, and discovered some fertile fields lying upon the side of a distant mountain,
which beautifully contrasted with the wild and uncultivated scenes I had justejuitted : a
* Hist. lib. i.
t Or Jialicr two torrcnta form by their junction the Adifff
\ N ,) iM THii roi'.vi.'iv f)i 1 im: r; ui.io.vs.
r)l.'
i(\v pace-, till iliir \^■as till- pros|HCi (I ii iicii pl.un « xtnuiint' lo iv.ni.io, tii' acuini
flowirif^ in a milder Mrcuu, which a moiiK-iit hclorc; roared iiiulcrmalh r)Mi- liit, nvn
broken prv ipicis. In h.ilf an hour I nathtfl ihc hiiths of St. Martin, in ih( v..|liy o(
Pnniiu'lia ; tluv an: foruicd by sfvtral hot snrin'^s wliicli rise near Moliii.i, and ar(
H\y pace-, Iniihir \\as tin- pros|HCi cf a rich pl.iin « xtrndlnt' to nf.rn.io, ili' Addnl
nc '■ ' r
brf.
I' .. .
much irtfjucntcd at tliis sc\ison of the year; thiy arc ol' the s.inie iiutnre wih those of
Bath, but (lid not appear so h(jt.
From tlunce I descended intf) the plain, uhich i^rodnces some corn, :.nd yiLldscNCil
lint pn^tiiir, and in a siioit time arrived at liormio. I-'.very thin.L,^ mow wears i-n It:ili;in
look : the vilkiges urc vi ry inferior to those in the Cuisons; tlie honses are plastered,
and li.ive a dirty ai)piuvanee ; and it was no had reniaik ol" my servant, that the viUagcs
looked as il'the inhiil jtiints w(rc mostly dead, :ind the place deserleil.
This ro.id over du; Bralio, iiltliougli s) indilVcrent, Mas formerly fl.e principii! p;iss;if;c
C«r the inenlKindisc bent from the Tyrol, llwough the N'alteliiie, into tl»c Miiainse: af
prisint it is much less frecpRiHid.
The county of Borinio, subject to the Orisons, lies at the foot and in the midst of
the Hhetian Alps, and borders upon Kngadina, die valley of Munsler, the N'altelinc,
Tyrol, Trent, and the \'enctian territories. It is entirely enclosed within the nioun
tains except a narrow operiiug, which coimects it with the \'alteline ; ihi- other accesses
lie across the ru.^g-'d Alps, and are similar lo the passat^e over the Bralio ; in wintc'
they arc frequently impassable.
This country, "once a part of the Milanese, l)ccan)e subject to the Orisons in
1512: the concurrence of extraordinary circumstances, which occasioned this rivolu
tion, will be related in the subsi (luent letter, ui>on the history of the Valteline ; for, as
the Valteline came under the dominion of the Orisons at the same period, ;ind from
the same causes, the two histories are so intimately blended, that they cannot br
separated.
The county is divided into five districts. 1. Bormio, which comprises the cnintal,
and several dependent villages. 2. The valley of Furba. 3. 'I'he valley of Pedinoss.
4. The valley of Cepino. 5. The valley of Luvino. The inhabitants of the Luvino
possess several privileges, particularly the power of judging civil causes within a certain
value; they do not, however, appoint any of the magistrates, who are all chosen from
the four districts.
The country of Bormio enjoys ample immunities, some of which are not extended
to the \'i.lteline, or Chiavenna ; and the inhabitants are exem|)t fr<jm the oppressions so
wantonly exercised by the Orison governors in the oiiur subject countries. 1. The in-
habitants pay a iixed contribution, which is very moderate, and cannot be increased.
2. They collect and enjoy their own duties upon exports and imports, which secures
them from injudicious and oppressive taxes. 3. The fnies lor criminal olVences belong
to the community ; a circumstance very friendly to the adminisiraTion of justice : for
no part being assi;4ned to the governor, as is the case in the other subject provinces, h.-
is not interested lo convict criminals. 4. But tlic principal privilege which distin-
guishes this country f.om the \'alteline, is the freedom of its govcnunenl, anil lite
limitation of the podesta's authority.
Bormio, like the other subject countries, is governed by a supreme mat'^istratc calleci
Podesta, who is sent from the Orisons, and con.inues two years in oHi.e : his antlmi ity is
f. Kceedingly circumscribed, and he enjoys scarce ly any j)()w< r, but n ith the concurrence
of the coimcils. He presides in these councils without givii g a vote, except in ease ol
equality ; he has neither the power of arresting a criminal, nor of pardoning or lesseniiig
the i>nnislmient ; he receives a yearly stijjenel from the eouiUr\ of aijout 8(tl. arisin.tt
VOL. V. C A
.'11
()>. r. 3 r r. w r. I, s i n' s v i i /. r. ii r, .\ v d,
ptisiy I'lOMi a paymtiit iti mf>my, partly IVoin an ullowaiicc in rye, and partly tVomihc
costs oi'Miitiri civil ;ii)(l criininal citisi s. Hut the restrictions laid on his authority will
1)1 st ai.pi;ir iVnni a short ski tch of the esMljlishcd j^-overnineiit.
'I'Ik su[)rtnR iinthorify reside s ii\ the podrsia, and coiiii(ils, consisting of a civil and
ei Iniiual tril)niuil, whose rTienibers arc aiunuilly chosen by the people.
The criiniii'l conrt, or the c«)uncil ol'sixt'en, who arc elunii^icl every four months,
IS composed of two re<i;ent.s, the triasurcr, the noiaiy, anil sixteen coiinsi llris, ten ol"
whom are taken IVom the town, and two Irom each ol' tile v.illio I'lnlia IVdinosa, and
C'ejiino; of thcMC inendii rs only the sixteen connsi llcrs have any vote. At the rctpicst
ol the two ri};i.iits, tins council is convened hy the podcsta. In order to ;irrc«»t a crimi-
nal, the whole couui il oui;ht to asseinMe, or at least seven ol" the mcmlxrs ; Init in
any case of imp'-rt .nee, the pndesta and two regents nKi\ give an older of* arrest ; this,
however, beiiij; ( oiitn.ry to law, must be rcfcricd to the liist meeting of the council,
which, if sati^iiid, iIkicis in the words of their code, Malccapius; bene dctcntus ;
the arrest was illegal, bute\i ,licnt. 'Ihe process is formed, and the prisoner exa-
milled by the podcsia and tw<j regents, who la\ the piocccdings before the council.
Should the crimin tl be convicted, and will not confess his crime, the majority of the
■ oum il decide whclher the proofs are strong enough to justify lorttnv : if that horrid
expedient should be deemed retjuisite, it nuist be api)iied in the presence of the podcsta,
the two regents, the tre isurer. ami notary.
The fnusare paid to the community, which, \\ hen the prisoner is insolvent, defrays
die cxpence f)I the ; ocess. If the pi oofs against the prisoner apjjcar insutlicient for
his conviction, the podcsta and counsellers receive nothing for their attendance. This
regulation, whitli was dtsignid to |)revent frivolous prosecutions, is prodnctivc of this
ill i fleet, that it induces the judges to strain the slightest circumstances into proofs of
guilt, and not unfreipicntly occasions the infliction oftoiture. -
The civil tribunal consists of twelve mendjcrs, taken from the town of Borniio, who
determine all civil causes in the first instance : IVora their decision lies an appeal to the
•syndicate of the Grisons.
The nu ndicrs of these councils are chosen annually by the assembly of the people,
consisting f)f, 1. All those who have been magistrates; 2. Of sixty persons from the
town, nominated by the two chief of the people ; 3. Of sixty persons chosen equally
by the three vallies ; 4. Of three dcj)uties from the v.illey of Luvino. All these re*
presentatives assemble on the 15di of June, in the town hull of Bormio : the election
IS carried on in the most democratical manner, upon apian calculated to prevent all in-
fluence, w hicli cannot however be entirely excluded by the most complicated mode of
I'lection ever invented. Without eidarging upon the form (>i' voting by ballot used at
liormio, 1 shall, on account of its singularity, only briefly describe the ceremony of
v-hoosing the two regents. After the nomination of the counseller«, the regent last in
ofTice points to some person in the assembly ; and at the same distant the treasurer men-
tions some niuuber, as lor instance, ten, fifteen, l<c. This nund)er is immediately
.onnted by the regent, beginning from the person to whom he is pointing: the last six of
the persons counted retire into a sej)aratc room, and choose six membersoftheassembly,
namel}', tinee from the district of Bormio, and three from the vallies, who appoint six
caiididutcs. The nnnies being thrown into six bags, and ballotted iov, and the two, w ho
* Liule more is wiinii'.U!; lo tlir ti foriiuition of criniiiuil jurispniclcncc in Bormio, thuii vo rciulci*
il.t ( >..iiiiitu.iio;is [)vil)lif, ;u puy the jud^jit^j tor liiciv lUleiiduncc, wliclhcr the piisoiicr is iaaoceut cv
!m;U!v, uiid ',0 ubollbli torlurc.
\NIi IV lllli COUVIRV 01 iiii; (jiuaoN.
,M.'-
from the
)iity will
civil and
months,
s, KM of
\()sa, und
I rtfuus.t
I a crimi-
, ; hut ill
vst ; this,
; council,
[Ictcntus ;
)ncr c'xa-
c council,
ity of the
bat horrid
c podtsta,
nt, defrays
tiicient for
ncc. This
tivc of this
0 proofs of
rmio, who
ipcal to the
the people,
IS from the
,en equally
II iliese re-
,he election
event all in-
ted mode of
lot used at
cremony of
•gv nt last in
asurcrmcn-
mmetliately
be last six of
le assembly,
1 appoint six
he two, who
thim to rciulci*
is hiuocciit <■"■
s.
5
13
U
4
6
0
12
ft.
0
4
4
0
8
0
0
;.avc the (greatest number of ballots, are rei^'etils. Tluy reuKiin nt ()\\w<. ouiy four
monUis, in order to prevent the al)use of their power, which is very ^reat.
The expences of ><overnment are re}^ulaled uiih extrenn jialousv, and the aea>nni -
are annualiv submitted to the inspection of eaeh di^tiul, wlun the u^nnts retire i.on>
office, the treasurer delivers a summary of the expei\ces and receipts incurred diirmf,
their administration, which is read to the council ol sixteen, and cannot piss wiihoui
their iipprobaiion. In October the council eleeis three examiners, two ot whom air
always taken from the inhabitants of the town, and one reciprocally fn.m each ol lh(
direc vallies. These examiners make u report, which is laid before a depnuuiou troni
the townantl the vallies on the 3i\ of May, and live i opi( s are distributed to the severa
deputies, for the inspection of their respective constituents; lastly, the report is read
before the assembly of representatives, who meet lor the election of the mafjfistratcs,
when it is either fmally approved or rejected.
The revenue of the county, however trilling, is nearly adetpiate to the current cxpcn
CCS ■. it arises in the follow ing manner :
Duty upon merchandise, which this year amounted to 2?>
Rent of the pasture u[)on the Alps of l-'rederiga, Gallo, and Braglio, .3()
For liberty of cutting \vo(hI, - • - ■ • ^
Profits arising from the sale of the corn granted by the government of Milan, 25
Kent of the baths, '"'''* Jl
Fines, upon an average, . • .... 14
Tythcs of corn produced, ..... 103
The following is a Table of the average Expence^.
For making and repairing roads and bridges.
Salary of the magistrates, -
Salary of the podesta and syndicate.
In this calculation a few occasional expcnces arc omitted, which render the general
outgoings greater than the receipts ; the overplus is supplied by ecpial assessments. For
the purpose of assessing, there is a perpetual committee, consisting of twelve members
chosen from the town," and two from each valley, which is convoked by the regents.
The sum recpiired being laid before them they fix the (juota according to a calculation of
property.
The 'mountainous parts of Uiis country produce only pasturage and wood; the lo\yer
district about Bormio yields corn, but not sutlii:ient lor domestic consumption. 'Fhe
inhabitants export cattle, a small (juantity of cheese, and iron, obtained from the mine ot
Freli, in the vallc) of Pedinoso, worked at the expence, and lor the profit of a private
person, who pays to the community a small annual rent. Xv'ine is imported from the
Valteline, corn from the T} rol, corn and rice from Milan, linen from Bergamo and Ap
penzel, and i-loth froni Germany.
6a?
222
14
4.
£'
•S •
ff.
83
6
R
71
8
0
57
6
212
o
o
•.'I«>
Cfl"<F. i IliWEta IV SWI l/.i: ULANIJ.
'I'lu Ufiiii;iii Ciibolif ii tlu' < slaMlslu d r( li;^i<>n, ami tlu t scrcisc orcvtry v\\nr wf)r->Uii
I'. |it'Mhil)itt (I : (.\tn iIk pncUsti h'lnisclt', il a protistant, i>« not (.'iiiitUd to any iiulul^ritici'
ill this |»iirii( iil.ii". ^ .S|)iritiial .iH.iirs air (iiidir tlic jurisdiction ol tin. Iiisliop of C'oirc.
ulifi has a \i(.ai'srnnrl at liornnn, in wliicliall i.((;k'siis'it:al (Miist"* aritriiil.
'I'lu |)ri( sts have jiiciiliar |)riviU|;is, which arc tvtu cxttndnl to those who wiar a
< h ri(al duss. Althoii;j^h many aluists rcsnit I'roin those iNorl)it int liinunniiies, yit,
lr(/in th. nature ol the ^ov«rumetit, liuy are ntore ristraiiud lure than in the Valtiline.
Most o| till peasants possess a small portion ol land, and in consumenie of iht free-
(lorn (t'tlic ;;-ov(.iumci)t, are iitiicli happier than the people of the Valteline and Cliiii-
^( !in;i.
The i< '.\ n ol' Hormio is ikot unpliiisantly siniated, at the foot of the mountains, close to
thi torrent I rtdoU'o, which falls at a small distance iiUo the Adda. It contains aljoiit a
thousand iiihaliiiants, hut has a cKsolate appearance ; the houses are ol" stone plastered ;
a lew make a loUrahle ii^^nre amidst many with pap. r windows ; several, like the Italian
cottages, have oiil) wooden window shutters. Tiiis custom nuiy not he uncoml'ortahlc
in the mild chmate of Italy, hut cannot he aj^reeahle in a eountr}*, suhject to sudde-i
( haii;xcs ol" weather, and oecasionalle cold even in the midst of summer, when the hlcak
winds hl(jw keenly from the Alps.
The landlord of the inn in which I am lodj^ed is one of the re}^enis, and a man of
j^reat consefiumce. 1 sit down to tahle with him, the podesta, and his wife. The po-
rk sta has hem lately appointid to this ^;ovirnment, aiitl I can collect from the conver-
sation which has passed, that he is perfectly ij;norant of the laws and constitution of this
coimtry ; in all my fjuestions he refers me to the landlord, who is thoroughly accjuainted
with the th( ory and practice of the courts of justice, and well versed in tlic most minute
circumstancis, relative to the administration of all'airs.
It has raimdall day without intermission, and the showers in these Alpine countries
pour down with such unccjmmon violence, that I esteem myself very fortunate in heing
well slu hired. The had weather, however, did not prevent me from seeiufr every thing
which is worthy of alti ntion in Burmio, and in payiuj^ several visits to the principal fa-
milies of the town, who consider an Englishman in this country as a kind of phitnomc
non, and shewc d me evi ry attention anil civility in their power.
The I'alar.zo, or townhovise, contains a suit of wretched rooms for the residence of
the podesta, a eluunher for the courts of judicature, and an apartment w here the represen-
tatives of the people assenthle. In one of the rooms is an engine of torture, which, in
defiance of common sense, as well as humanity, is still used in these countries to force
. onii ssion.
Being desirous of seeing the archives, I fomul it occasioned nio.-c trouhle than I at'
tirst ajjprehended. The door of the apartment, in which liicy are deposited, having
several locks, it was necessary for all the magistrates, who are entrusted will) the dilUrent
keys, to he present at the same time: no oljjeciion, however, was made to my admis-
si(jn, and all parties readily assemhled upon this occasion. 'J'hc arcliives, which are in
the greatest disorder, i ontain many records relating to the history and constitution of
liormio, the crin)inil and civil statutes, and several charters from tiie sovereigns of Mi-
fan, eonlirniing original privileges anil adding oth ts. The eurlii st of these acts is dated
1578, and signed h;. John GaIeax-20 N'isconti.
•Tor 'he riiii*isof this jjroliibiuou. \\liich takes pl.icc in ull tlu- provinces siibjccl 10 the fJrisonsi,
-.I'l- the next IciUT
, .S h IN ii;k <)>l. \(Kk Of k »M. '.NISON.'..
1)1" C'nirf.
lo \iT;;r a
t'us, vtt,
/altiliiic.
tin frcf-
iicl (.'liia-
, close to
s about a
)lastcrtcl ;
)u: Italian
nil'ortablc
() sucldc'i
the bleak
a man of
The po.
ic convcr-
ion oltliis
c(luaiiU(.d
)sl minute
■ countries
c in being
ver\ tiling
incipal fa-
i)ha;nomc
sidencc of
.' re pre sen -
which, in
Ls to force
L- than I at'
■d, having
ic dilllrent
my admis-
bich are in
jtitution of
giis of Mi-
!tb ib dated
ihc Orisons,
I'lie most iiii|ii,tl.iiit ul till paptTn It ilu: ehirler by \N'liit Ii tlu (iriv)n<i cutifinn, m tin
ruo^lampli' matiiu-i, tia imnuiuiiies granted tn this cotmtry by the dukes ol Milan , ii
was passed in ill)' dut ot Ilani:<, liiicUr Paul bisli< p of C'uiri , in \M:], the )i.tr siibsi
i|ii(.iit to iliat i:i\ilii(h tlu (iiisons annexed liornilo to tin ir dominions. Man) ciretitn
stanreb have t <»iicuri\d todeltrtlu (irisons liom infringing this i harti r . ilu two printi
pal are, the siuiation of Honnio, and the spirit of freidoni uliidi distinguishes the inlu
bitaiit-s. l\\ its situation upon the conliiies of the 'r)T'»K ''u p(.o|)le, in lasi of the least
discontent, would reeiivetncouiagt iiu ni and assistanei (roiiuhe house of Austri.i. 'I'hi:.
loial advantage procured iIkiii, x\liili uiiiUr the go\irniiu nt of Milan, inu' h bettei
treatment than was experiiucid by their lu ighbours in the V'alteline, and a similar rta-
sun still ('onliiiiu's to o|K rate u|)oii the eondiict oi the Cirisous.
'I'lie .si<irit of freedom wlii<h pervades the constitution, has no U ss maleriallj contri.
butid to till secmitv of tluir privileges : tliise pi opie lia\e always watched with a jialous
eye the slightest advances* of encroachnu nt, and never failed to runonstrate with great
unanimit) and risolulif)n, wluiie\uili( potUsta has discuvireil tin K ast im linaiion tt»
exceed tin. bounds of his aulliorii\ , lluiee the Cirisons have uuiforinl) acliil towards
them with great modi ration, and [»aid the re.ulicst allenlion to their representations and
remonstrances.*
LKTTKU LXXV.
Tirano....iHTtt/i oj'tliv Uistorij uftlic f^attclin''.
Tnunu.
( ''Urr'ri'J) Honnio this inf)rning about ten. 'I'he torrents arc oon.sideraI)ly swelled
wi ii he late rains, and the sides of the neighbouring mountains are sprinkled with
ycsivilay's snow. I passed along the narrow valli y of (Jepino, through sevi ral wnlched
vilfiges, among which not the least wretched is(\pino itself, consisting of a few strag-
gling cottages, many of which are in a ruinous state. Having crossed the Adda, and
continued on the left bank of the torrent, which dashes with great \ iolence through a
rocky country, in three hours I arrived at a |)ass called La Scrra, w here almo->l tin u hui'.-
space between the impending rucks is occupied b\ the Adda.
The j)aUi runs under the gateway of an ancient tower, and leads from tin; county (j1
Bormio into the V'alleline. At SiMidiilo, which stands «mi the banks of the riwr ii[)on
un eminence, under a richly cultivatetl mountain, the valUy widens, am!, l)e>"onKs more
and more fertile , in sonu: places it is about a mile, in others scareels' a lunulred yards iti
breadtli. Near Tirano it exhibits an appearance of e\traordinar\ feriilit}" ; the left ridge
of mountains is thiefly oversjjread with hanging groves (jfchesnut-irees, intermi.\ed with
a few vi'ies, vibove tiiemare meadow s and forests of fir. 'I'he ridge lai:ing the souili is
richly covered with vines, which reach almost to the sunmiit, studded occasionally with
clusters cf lan/e trees; on both sides churches and houses half concealed by I'le loliagc
enliven tlu [trosptiit. Helow runs the Adda; the plain on each side of its banks pr(jdu-
ccsabui'.daii •.- /fcorn and pasture, mulljerrics, wahuiis, and other fruit-trees, and vines
carried o\rrilie corn and [)aslure in beaulifid festoons from tree to tree.
Tirano is iln; e:'pitai of the Upper Terzcro, and the resielence of the podesta. Al-
though the low 11 contains several handsonie buildings, yet, e)n account of the narrow-
ness of die strertb, ind nuinlrr of ruinous houses, tlie general appearance i> desolate.
The -Ve'ela eli\ides il i:iio two parts, ulii^.hare connected b}' a stone bridge of a single
"Inilu' new (li\i',ioi» 111' SAitzcrland the coiin'v fij Horniid was, wi'li tin: Vr'.ltcliuf and Cliiuvcmui.
auncKeil lotlic t.'ibali>iiiL' rtpubli''.
UH
u\b ) inAv'1^^,1.^ tN :<u t i.:i.ai, \N ii,
1.
ituii. I oh^rvrdihc icnKiiiisof >>t»)iK' w.ills wliii li lurnitrly Miiroiiinl<«l tins plir? \& ^
v\ .iIK, loj;( rill r w iiii an ailjoiiuii^j; Inrin ^s, \V( u hiiilt l>\ l.mluv iro SltjrZii ; but (Ji>»i:i . .1.
I'.d by iIk (iri^oii'^ nluu tbi \ a(:f|iiin.(l po'iMS'i.ou ol the Wiltdiiu-.
Tiraiio curriin on but littic li.ulr, i:;ci pt (luriiip; the time oJ tlu* fair. The s'.ipU
.ninnRTii" (»l ihi' town ('Hisi^tji in i\w < :;p«)rtatioii of wiiu" ai\»l "-ilk ; the Mine in vut in
lii^;f (|iiiiiii'niis int(» the counlry of ihi tirivitis, to llonnin, .hkI into thi' Urritoriis ol
Xdiirt. ; thi siL whi'I. isihawii from thl^ (h^tiict of the V'.iItchiU', is not of the lust
'pitlit^, nor viry ubiu'd.mt . part i>i loruardccl to Venice, and the reniaindcr through
( lii.i\. hna to (Icrmany.
Atioiit liali a mill Ikmu thi ti»\\ n, on the otlurside of the ,\(I(la, is the ( hurclj ol" thr
Mid'iii:!, Ol ihi' \ ii,'iM Mai) , mill Ii visitid b\ (.'alhohc pil(,'riins ; it is a lai>j;e haiidsoinr
btiildin;;, coiisiiucl'. d uiih niarbU' and stone stiiecoed. I'art of the chureh is aneient,
Inr I ol)',> I \i d a di'U' of IJoti; and di'' laiMd ornanu nts are ^rotcsipie, but by no means
b.idl} fiiiiilud, Tlu n't'iikrn ixiildiii;; is in an tlu^Miit st\ le of architi etiiiL ; the prinoi'
pal iiiiraiiee is fornud by tuo Coiinihi.iti pillars ornanieniid uith foliage and f< stooiis
til llo^ul.s, while the pilasters are neail\ adornul widi bisso relicxos, in the style ol tiK.
antitjiii . TIk' iuraof the \.()rkinaiisliip, as 1 eollei led Iroin an iiiseription over the door,
was I. ■>.■,,'..
In du lar^e .era lu fore the eluireli is luld, in the numdi of ()i tolu r, the fair of Tira-
no, ii m.iik;il>Ii for \W' iinnibir of cattle which are brought for sale: they an fitl upon
thehij^i'i it Alps, \\!iu\ they (ontiiine until the snow bigins to fall, and arc chit lly suit
iVom heiiei itiio Itab. The lair coniintus three da\s, diiriii)^ which time tin aulliorit)
of the podesta is siispi iideil, and the ^;overnor of the \'allcline has absolute jurisdiction
ovir the to\ni and district.
I caiiiiol di scribe how nuicli I am perplexed with a variety of lan}^iiaj,'( s. I sjuak
Italian or French with the prim ipal [gentry, sonu time s lu^ld .i conversation in Latin, talk
a smattering of (ierman uithm} vrvant, and with my guide and the common peoples
kind (jf C'irrnpt Italian, likelhi .Milanese. I write n)> notes in I'aiglish, and during my
progress thr(/ugh I'aigadina, was etn|)lo\td incollecting a vocabulary of the Komansh.
You will not iheri-fore be surprised blKJuld )ou find a confusion of tongues in my Let-
ters.
The N'alteline, called by the inhabitants Valle-Tilina, extends from the confines of
Horinio to ihe lake' olClii.ive una, about the length of lilty miles. It is entirely enclosed
between tU'o chains of high mountains; the northern ch.iin separates it from the Orisons,
ihe southern fiom the VeiRtian territories; on the east it bordi rs on the county of
iitjrmio, a>id on the wist on the diitehy of Milan.
The Valleline, together wiih the counties of Chiavenna and Bormio (which h;id long
been the source of hostility between the bishoi)s ol Comu ;ind Coire) came in IJjtt
under the dominion of A/xo \'i-^conti, sovert ign of .Mil.iii, whoijuietly transmitted them
to his successors. Upon the death of John V'isconti, who was arclibishop as well as
bovereign ol Milan, his extensive territories were divideel between his nephews Galc-
aZ-/.() and liarnabas. ■ On the demise of Cialeaiixo Ins son John (ialeaijzo secured the
person of his iiiiile Harn.ibas, ;aid having conlined hini in the castle of Trevio until hib
death, which happened in 1J'.>5, annexed his dominions to his own, and became b) thi:>
union the greatest and most powerful prince in Iial). Mastiiio, son of liarnabas, re-
ceived an ;is\liim under llartmaii, bishop of C'oirc, and as a mark of gratitude fonually
'^^.lW^\ to him hij right to the Valtelim , Chiavenna, and Borniiu.
* 1 (I'j iiol inciUiun Miit'.h'ui^. ilu el<I«st Lrothcr, because he dii'l suoti aflcnvaiii'^
\xi» IN nil. rni'sniv »>» i.ir ..i;i'f*'a.
y|f>
im:i:i tt«
V lit III
oriiN nl
llic 111*.!
llirniif^li
h nfthr
iii(K()inr
.UK iciil,
0 tm-un>
c |irinci'
li vinous
« n| the.
tlic door,
of Tira.
lid upon
ii> lly suit
auliiorit}
rihdictioii
I spi ak
^atin, talk
1 people a
lurinf( my
l<<;miiiisli.
1 my Let'
onruK's of
y enclosed
c Orisons,
county of
li had lonjr
c in 133(>
lilted lUtin
as u'lll as
uws Galc-
LMuircd the
o until hib
mc t)) tiii:>
•nah.is, rc-
.c luriuall}'
1-
To this CTssioii, at ili.it liini* of no avail, liu- (irisiHiH our th • nos»cssiom;l tin v pro
viniA's. Tlic (laiiti lay itonnatil loi .ilxivt half a tmtui), until diHcoittintw arising in iho
N'altiliiii, the (iii->nn<. tii id* an irnipiioti into tin (oimiry in snppoit of the lii^hop's
ri^lu ; hni tliiir arms not heiii); atiuidt il with siuciss tiu y pnr( h.ised a ptate, jiy re-
nouncing alt pretiiisioi)^ to tlu Valteliiii. Thiy rtiitwrd, howivi-r, their ilaiiii iit
IM2, t\liui Liidovico, ralli (t the- Moor, dukt. >it Mil. in, was taken pris'tiKr )>> Liwim
tlu Tuillth, ..nil die whole Milaiusi, eoinprisiiiK tin N'alleliiie, was oerupied liy that
tuon.ireh.
Suoii afti r this rexohition the (irisons, in rotijuiu tion with the liishop of (Juire, en>
tered tlu Nail*. line, and, Iiaviiij^ » spellid tin Krinch li<t»ip,, touk possession of the
eoimtry ; the) uire rtciived with joy \t\ dii inlial»ifanls, who did ImmiiKe to duir luw
iK)Verei^ns, and in ntuin ohl. lined Ironi tluni tin c onlirinition o| .ill iliur priviti^es.
Ac(mi|iromise was imnudi.itely eiilired into hetweeii the h. ,.iop of Coire and the three
lea^iies, to sli.ire the so\eiximity of this couiitr) . In tlu fotlowin;^ ) t ir M.ixiniitiin
Sfor/a, r.iisitl to the duc.J ihiniic of Milan upon the espiihion of the Irtinh, eedul
in perpi mil) the pobsessioii of ihe N'alu line, Clii.iNeiiiia, and Hoiinio, to the l)isliop of
Coirc, and the (irisons; a eessi<»n raiifud lij I'raiieis tlu' First, in the tnaiy of pe.U'
which lu eonclndid with ilu Swiss ai;d tlu ir alliis die (liisoni in f)!'!, u!v n he ol)
taiiied possession of ilie .\lil.i!ir>,i'.
In 15.J0the Cirisoiib acpiiied the whole dominion of the Valteliiie, to the exclusion
ol the bishop of (Joire ; niuler pretonee th.it ilie bishop hid noi Inrnislud his (piot.i of
nun and iiioiuy in the war with J.imes of Mcdit.i, in (left uce of ilu-se < ■ ili d cmntiies,
th. y compelled him to sell liis -.hari' <jI" the suvi reij^iuy for a \e.irly iiitome of .')T.> lloiius
payiible to him and his successors out of the customs ol' Chiaveim.i. I'rom th.i'
pdiod these pio\inces utre possessed by tlu' (Irisons without moUstation, until lit'
rival inteiists of l"'rance and .Spain, the inii-i.^ULS ot the pope, rtlij:;ious cnthiisiasni
the z(.iil of party, and eKaclions of the (Irison governors, kiiulktl au insurrei^tioii.
wliiih commenced with .i general m.issa(;re of die IVoleslaiits, and raged for .i series ol
years wiih die ui.)st s.iv.i^^' and nun iniitiiiL!: fur\ .
Ill no coimiry has the spirit of disci »Jtl been more prevalent, or rtligious ilisjnitc-
(xirried to a ffie.i'i r heii^ht. The ;:eal of conteiidin;.;' factions his i-.ommuniiMted iiself
to the histf/riaiis ol these ».\elits; i>n b-ah sides relif^'ion h.is been ple.iiled as a sanction
to the most attfO( ious a- lioii«», AUi\ al'eu^ed by one parly asane.KCU >(. IWr t\rann\-, and I'M
s*elieHi(jii bv tlu oUier.
As the N'alieliiie, Chia\enna, and B >rmio ori;^in.'.lly belon^rcd to the Milancs.', the
sovereij^ns of lli.it duleli) always lo:>ki.d upon tlu ("Irisons widi a je.ilous t \e, and se-
cretly ciul)raci d every oppoilunity to romenl the disturb.mcis with whii'.h they, in cuiu-
moil with all di nujcratical stales, are (H"casionally convulsed.
Upon the extinction of the family of Sl'or/a in the person of Fi.incis the Second, the
emperor Chuilcs the I'il'th sti.ad t!ic Milanese as a fief reveriiiii; to the empire, and,
disris^arditi'; lii..- el.iinis of the lieiich i;li!^% j^ave the invciliuire t(j his own son Philip.
With the pos.session of the Milaiice Philip succeeded to pretensions upon the Valtclinc ;
and altliMui'Ji both he and his successor Philip the Third entered into treaties uf allinnce
with the llir.e U i;/;!!',-.. by ulilcli they resi;;;ned all claims to this coimlry ; yet they never
liiially nhiKpii >lieil ail iuieiiiion ol recoveriiiji; a province \\hi(h had been (iiicc tlismem-
bered iVoin the Milui'eiC, and wiiich the coniests between France and Spain rendered
more v.ihuible to iheni, liian lo tlu ir predecessors in the dutehy of Milan.
Diniiij^lhe consiunt war.-. ulii'Ii, liom the accession oi Philip the Second, the restless
ambition of t'ue Spaiii^ii court entailed upon Europe, the Geruiaa and Spanibh branches
OJ'i
0..1:
1 ;; A V I', I- ; 1 N
1 I /Lit I, A \ 1.
< I'llic house ul Austria uriv iiisi'irinbly iiiiitcd ; iiiul iLf councils ol' Vicmvi wtTc di-
i (ltd hy the c.ihim.'t ai Madrid. Und< r these circuinslaiuts the N'altLiifit', winch, by
roiiiuctiii!^ tlic 'I'yrol and thi' Milanese, allnrdcd the nnly s( cnn paiisaL^c lor ilic jwnciion
ol' the Austrian and Spanisli troops, bccnnie of sii^jnal imjioriancc. IKncr the Spanish
!;()\crnors ol" Milan, hii^hly solicitous to ac(|uirc inlhn ia:e amontj the [ieople, secretly
lotiHiiicd tile spirit of di-.all(.ction, which the conduct of the Grisou jfovcrnurs loo justlj
pro\()kt(l ; jjiomised assistance to the aL;t;ricv( d iiihabiiaiiis, and i:i;aini(lby thi se inci.ns
a pontrlul part)- in i'avour ol" tluir court. The minds ol" the inhabitants Inirii; tlui!-
!;radnally won over to the Spanish interist, the count I'uentcs, governor of Milan, ven-
tund, in defiance oi'tlic (irisons, to construct the iort* whicli bears his name, for the
jMupose of conniiandiu!^ the passii^v of the X'alteli.ie.
The same riasons whiih renih ud the Sjianiards disirous to secure the \'altelinc, in-
t!u;'((l the French to oljstruct tluir designs. licnrv the Finirth, with his usual viirour
zealously csj;ous(d the cause of the Cirisons, and was pn paring to send eH'celual assislanct
iigainst the attempts of KuciMis, when he was assassinated; and the intestine troubles,
^vhich took place u|mn his death, for a time tiUally withdrew the attention of France
iron) this (luarter. The Spaniards, thus frccel from their niost lorniidable rival, pursued
their projects upon the \'alterme without (^|)posiiion, and availed themschts of the do-
ineslic dissentions between the Ciiisous and the inhabitants.
The (irisons had long attempted to introduce the Reformation into the "Valteliue with
the most injudicious ^eal, and witlu)ut paying sufficient attention to the prejudices of a
ftujKrstitious people. Churches fe)r the worship of the '•eformed religicjn were con-
structed, and ministers regularly settled with a permanent salary ; schools fe)r Protestant
children were established at Sundrio, notwithstanding the remonstrances of the Romish
priests, and the opjjosition of the pe opie. Many privileges of the popish ecclesiastics
were taken from them ; privileges! which, though rejjugnant to every principle of
sound government, were sanctified l)y usage, and could not be hastily abolished without
< xciting general discontent. »
'I^) these religious grounds of dissatisfaction were added others, arising from the ty-
rannical proceeelings of the Grisou governors, whom the aelvocates for rebellion painted,
and it is to be feared with too much justice, in the most odious colours. "A system,"
they cried, " of avarice and exU^rtion is established by law ; the magistrates purchase
the ir offices, and indemnify themseh es by the plunder of the country. All things arc
venal ; life, honour, and even cons'.ience itself has a price ; it is not possible for the
ge)Vernors to be more inif^uitous, nor for the people to suffer a greater complication of
calamity."
These we ll-groiuided complaints were aggravated, and the crisis of rebellion accelerat-
ed Uy an act of flagrant injustice. Many inhabitants of the Valtelinc, suspected of lii-
vouring the Spanish court, particularly those who had opposed with the greatest zeal the
introduction of the reformed doctrines, were arrestee!, and conveyed into the country of
the Orisons. Mock courts of justice were established in several places, by which the
prisoners w ere fined to a large ame)unt ; and some were even wantonly sentenced to
the t-orture.
Amt>ng the suflTerers was Nicholas Rusca, a ])riest of Sonelrio, who had gained the
universal e.steem of the Catholics, by his unremitted resistance to the Protestant de)ctrines,
and who, for the rigid austerity of Ins manners, was revered by the multitude as a saint.
• Sic li;Ucr 68.
I Tliiy will- inde'j)e'mlcut of ll\c civil ivntlioiiiy for nil elcliiuniciicics, uinl iimcnuMc only tu lh(
lusliup of Coin-
\S 0 I N' I 11 '■■■ to!.' N : ;i ' iM I );
', 1! I o O N
\)2:
WlTi: cli-
hicli, by
juMCtinii
Spanish
, bccaily
00 jU'.-)tl}
illpf llui!-
lati, vtn-
L, lor the
tlinc, ill-
il vijfoiir
issisiaiict
troul^lcs,
)r France
, pursued
jt the do-
cliuc with
dices of II
\erc con-
Protestant
c Romish
clesiastics
inciple of
■d w ithout
•*
)m the ty-
n painted,
system,'*
i purchase
things arc
jle for the
ilieiUion of
1 accelerat-
cted of lli-
*st zeal the
country of
which the
ntenced to
gained the
[doctrines,
as a saint.
i; only to lh«
The death-; of Unsea, nmidst the most cMcriieialinf,' torniriit',, rniscd i spirit of \\.y\
.imong th.' p((.pl'j t(j() violrut tolu- appeased. 'I'Ik' tniis-viii's of Sjiain flid i.f)i lail l>>
intieirse the },.neral fernuiit, and to siig,!.;vst ihr ni'ist platisil)l(- motives I'ov iiiimediai--
insurrection, Ijy npn senting that, as thi (iiisons wen cinviilsf d In laeti'jus ;ii»l 1 r,ni<
dislurhtdbx inU sliue eoninVolioiis, a ravcnnahle oi.poitiinily jm v ntul ils'lf to shake oil
the joke u'n(l( r wliieh thry groaned. Thi sugg(siinns had ihur ( Hi ct ; and the it;
habitants conniu need h(^stiruiis by a genual massai le (jf the I'roteMaiils. ^
The 20lh (jl July I'iJO, was the da\ appointed Ibr the pcrptirati-.n of tl • , iiorudd--
sign. .\t dead (jf nii-'hl Kubustelli, "the leadir of the eonspiney, accompanied !);. j
hundred lollowcrs arrived at Tirano, and, having assembled the chief Catlin'.Hs, laid
Ixfore them the intention of extirpating the Trntestants ; tin divadliil i)r()posal wis em-
l)raced with all the zeal of resentment, iuHamed by lanatieism. At break o! day the
signal for massacre being givtn by ringing of bells, great part (jf the in!ial)itatis ivMiid
from their h -uses, and repaired to the n.arket-|)lace v. ith terror and anxiety. In ilu-.
moment of perplexity die conspirators fell upon the Protestants, and enconragtd the
peoj)le to follow dieir example, by destrf)ying the enemies of the Catholic faith. Few
words being necessary to exasperate an ineenscil and superstitious nuiltitude, every per-
son sei:'.ed"ihe iirst arms which presented themselves, scoured the streets, stormed the
houses, and assassinated the Protestants.
During diis dre;dful scene, die podest;-,. his family and some of the priiu-ipal IVotes
tants took refuge in the town-house, and barrieadoed the doors; the Catho:: :s howevev
soon forced a passage, and burst into the apartments where the fugitives wxrc eoUeeted.
Their I'urv was for "a mcimcnt suspended at the alfecting sight of the potlesta and his wife
upon their knees, presenting their infant cliildren with uplifted arms. But such wa~,
the implacable barbarity of the enraged multitudi, who demanded witli lepealed in
stances the death of the podesta and his famil}', that this short respiti^ was of no a\ ail, and
only served to embitter their fate ; tlu y were Iirst imprisoned, and then put to deatii,
without distinction of sex or age.
The next scene of the massacre was exhibited at 'l'es;;lio, whither some (jf the c(m
spirators were dispatched from Tirano , they were dn ssi cl in red. as a signal to the in-
habitants that the rising at Tirano had succeeded. 'I'lu' Catholics soon colLcted m a
IkkIv, and repaired to the church, where die Protestants were assembi; d iyv the celebra-
tion'of divine service. One oi' the ni levelled his piecx- r.gainst the' niini-,ur, who was
preaching; bntniissing his aim, tlu' Protestants rose up, drove' out the Catholics, anel
irarricadoed the doors.'' The assassins then climbed uu to the' windows, and shot Iron i
the outside upon die crowded audience; the doors at li iiglh being burst opt-n, ;'il ih ;
Protestants were put to die sword excejiting the)se who n nounccd iheu' Ytiigion.
AnoUier party (jf Catiiolics made tlieir way tciwaids .Sondrio ; but the governor ol
•Jic X'altelinc, apprised of their design, ordered the inhabitants to take- arm>, and suni-
nioned the people of die ne ighbfniring district to his assistance; in obe'di..n(e to tliis
injunction, botli I'rotestaiits and Catholics began toaasembk', !jul ilie Pr..)U st.aiis wen.;
Hi'tcrceptcd and destroyed. Some attempting to escape towards h'.ngadina and Preealia
were overtaken in their ilight, and involved in the eommoii slaujditer. l^veii die women
laid aside the natural softness of dieirsex, and, harelened by superstition, prae-'ised e\eiy
species of outrage upon the bodies of die dee-eased. Meanwhile the Caliiolic tnops
entered Sondrio,* and exciting dieir parusans with the cry of •' J^o'.vn widi t!ie enemies ot
the Catholic faidi." made a general slaughter of the unliapp;. Prt.ttvs'.anls. Mercy,
If
0;
St.- 1,1 t!( V
.' 1 »(
p, ,,..>;i-;s ir. wEia IN :,\vn^:i'.in.AND,
,vn,., :,i.i; loll. 1.1.. h'-^'i.l '• ' . . I ,,.,.,.. .bill in llv. n.o^t ikliliirau. manner.
In 'l-;""'-'V''.' ;;''',',,, Ui. i.ri,.ci|,al Ca,l..ili<; at Hcrbaio, being c^l»rt«
l;!:;:,,!;!; -n ' ll".;,;"", 1.,,.^. Uu. mis act or d.m.iicy wa, the occasion ol lus oivn
a.s.,„,ll,.n ami lie -fr''^"'T'''":;^;;:^Z':i^l!^Zo(<h. comui-v, the remaining
AllUie INote Slants lH.n,e 1 ileme^
inlialufaiits reiiouneecl tlieir alliaiiee l" " >■ " . ^ ''. , , ,,„ „,„„. ,„
S:;;;i:! i*;;^.''ia d^l^r ;ai!ir ;4.i ll. inhabitants or .he ^■alteli,.e, the,
,Kof..a.u.lai, indeiieiKlent ™'»"'"''"X'' „c,e tot illv iin-nnal to the chastisement ol
The (iiisons, ;^-;^^^^f;^^:::^t^.:i^S^op.K the mediation o.
,l,u,; levolted «>I>J'-'^'- ,'J"-^';; "' ,',^•,|,,|i,,,; Olel^■otest! inclined to vigorous
Spam, lor the 1"''!;"^,^ n Ik .io?to the Swiss cantons, Venice, and France. -Mter
'X:^Z::Z:^:^>^^^^^ ■ nmnated ulthou, bloodshed, the I-rotcsiant interest
pre.aiUd, -;' -;'r;-;;-» ^i^LTdK^ bodV;rtn:,;,s, while the Catholic cantons re.
/nnc ami "'.'"; ,•'"■ .n^'",,, nersuasiuii. Venice, alarmed at the f;ro....ing |)ouer
,n.ea to ael ^-P'"- -I .^;\ / , ^ Is ol a ...assasc through the Naltelliie, gave a flattering
..I ihe housed •■^"; '';'••:''' ''\trisons, but uith a spirit ol ekl„y natural to a republic,
a.swer to tlie re<inest ol lie '■"y-'^\.' , ; , ■ ^ uiieiged Iroma civil war,
a. |,„ed »«'-"™>,,;';Xr:te ; ,oa:' v, iecisi;,^^ liassombiere was dispatched
v.as niorr disposal to Ki:,otKiU uuiu lu ,. , ,. , althouy-h u IcaLnic was con-
;o Madrid to solicit tlu -j:^"}^ >:;!-, ^^^^J.f^'^^^^^^ddic'uM^ul)!^ of Venice,
winded Ixtu.xt Uk- ku.K ol ^^^^';^.^J^; ^.^^ ^;,,,,a \ ct all that covdd be obtained
" ""^^ ^^ .rrtv" thV ^ '. - l-^l- v.aiev .hould 1,0 placed h. the hands ol the
i>oni tlR 'i^^'''';f ^,^"^;/ ::''' \ ,;,i ,>,,tisau ol'lhe house of Austr.a, and inchned to
|.,j., ; ,vu as the 1 .. ^- r' ^^, ,;^ \, ^,^,, ,,,ia,,, uut he would restore the orts U.
,av..ur the rebellion oi he \ ^'he. hl, u. uni'ed troops ol' the Gri-
r..;litic. aud xi^-i'-rously nUerpo^cd lubeiiall ui theL^iison,.
Mtoiir vr
rihomd,
, savtii^c
)niitiuc(l
to those
J luiiitt (1
MlSUIlKd
lods, (;a
iliarcd iii
manner,
cfustd to
.serves to
exhorted
i.ii;cr, and
li" his own
■cmainin|i,
if i^oveni-
n army to
with this
avint;' en-
.Hue, they
iscmcnt of
L'diation ot
0 vigorous
ce. ' After
lilt interest
cantons re
i-ing power
u fiatterin^^
.1 republic,
;\ eivil war,
dispatched
c was eoii-
of Venice,
je obtained
lands of tlie
inclined to
the forls to
of the Gri-
emed upon
1 cuurt sud-
.re ab it wu-'
an:i in 1 :'r, <:nt:\iiiv '^r iifE ''diON'. '■'
riu. rtvohition in xW 1 'rem h politics was owin- to the asr(n(ln,K\ ...i ■ .uliiul Hi< ii<
. M i o o on -r b.uau to preside in the eabinei, th m the k.nK.lom srcn..;,l ,. awA.
i^mU eirUt.^.t into whi^^^ had sunk, dnrins;; the I. ble ad.nnnstraM..ns ■
Wrc n V.uvneV That qreat minister instantly perceived th- lUM^oriaiu v ot th
VaU ii.e vi^ m wastin a monu:nt in delib.raii..n, he d. n.andcd an u..u.. hate n s. i
U,t! of Iik!; ' "ntr., andeniorced this demand by sendin, a a> ta^^hn.ent .>( tn.o;. w
the assisfuice of the Clrisons, under the command ol the m minis de t.ouvu-.
''V^ ^n^l unimatul widuhe spirit of the .u:w mini.tn-, l'V-^-^:^;?;^;:'';,t:,i;;; ,;
joi Kd his arm V to tJK- Swiss and (irisons, and in two caini,ai-ns ,lr.;ve th. ^P ' '• ^'^
Cle VdtJline, Chiavenna, and IJormio. The ^woluter prov.nces .^.. -mav h ,t< ^
restored; but when the (Prison deptities repaired to ^ -^ 'd! -;^x'pase ol di^l'n Ian
demand the cession of the Valteline, Couvres proposed tha the exuuse ol Ik ''^^^
xi^ should be abolished dtroughout the valley ; duU the ''''^^''"^'''> V T l; 1^^ m
heli^own tna,istrates, and pay a yearly tribute of i^<^(^'!'!-;'--• •';;;^^^^,;;^^ ^^ .
self so strouLdv inclined to circumscribe die authority ol the ( .nsons n u iIk '•>"'i' '^' ' '
Tf iK Val tehne that he was suspected of being bribed by tlv m. But it so... appeal •
ed that h^s cond t was occasidned by directions from his court and proceeded troni
"licoiilludon which, unknown to the Grisons. had taken place between the kings oi
^ '"SeUa.^'ull'otd of the French monarchy, haying l>rought to. '-Uuntv his projf ;;;
ioi subiu<.a ting the Hugonots, was too great u poli ai to enter into a t(..e.gn s a a
e eve of^a-ril commotion ; and ^^ell aware that he .ould not maintain possess.o. ol
V l^lhi:;' llcTlcxpuicc of troops, which he could ill ^V^^^^^^^
vomrnt and made overtures to Philip the Fourth, who, harassed by die oiigcon inu
ai^o hos" it" f^^^^^^^^ aesirous of an acconimo<lation : accordingly iM-eUm.
mrLo T. e V rca V were immediately adjusted by the contracting powers, at Mo.son
^Waeon I was agreed that die Valteline should again be restored to the Gnsons.
ndc^r he dlo i g conditions : no other religion but the Roman CatiioUc to be tolerated :
e 1 1 bit ms to dect their own governors and magistrates either trom tliemselves m
:iir^S..s, but always Irom persons c^ the l^>nu.n Catlu.lic^p^
governors to be coniirmcd by the Grisons. n retur.i lor these P'') ' f -, 5 -^.:^ 'l ^ ^ ,
ed, that the inhabitants should pay an annual tribute, die ^\"^"''"\ '' ^^V |\ ;^\\^ , ! ,
settled bv mediation. In conseciuence ol this treaty, concluded on he .)lh ol Alaul.
1626 tlK l^ench resigned the foil of the Valteline into the hands ol the pope, and eva-
'"intonCmrSo this alliance, die inhabitants having elected Robustelli wlio begon
die massacre, for their governor, and appointed twelve magistrates, sent a deputat.o o
Coi" to den and the contirmation of the Grisons, who were by no means disposed o
ace de K. a reatv so destructive to the rights of so^■ereignty, winch they possessed ma
Se t.:iehne. Openly excited by the republic of V-ice, and^cretly enc^uira^d by
the French minister, they refused to acknowledge the treaty ol Mos.on. i.ut a. tluy
were ;;<;i^a sultim suiMK,rt their claims by luree of arms, they could only remonstrate
;ind negotiate, wuhoutpr(;ducing any immediate elleet. i „ „i ,h„
AlU^s cominued in\his state lor three yems, until Kieheheu, ''Y^.^-^M ^^^^
reduction of the Hugonots by the capture ol Roche le, turned the ^f ''' V^;^;^;^ ' • .'^^^j"
aoainst the house of Austria ; the diminution ol whose power he had long nKCita e .
lie now threw olVthe mask : the dominions of the liouse ot Aus'.na were "^'•adec. o, u
sides, and everv part of Europe became the theatre ol Ins vast designs. Among otne.
enterprises the N'alteline engaged no inconsiderable share ol his attention ; die duK- '.
6 B '2
».: 1
. o.
[\\.\cv.\.^ I 'J cu'( i:;F.!;t. \Nn,
Uoliaiivui^ilisi^iicind t(j Uk (itisDU.s wiiha r()rmicla!)lc army, and, uorstini^ the Spam-,;-
ironp'i ill various encounters, disposstssiil tlitm ol'tlu: Valtilinc.
L'p'in iliis (Ufi^ivc suici'ss tlu l-'rcnch abakd much of their solicitude for the intei
CM?, ol the(iri.-.ons ; althouf;h lhe\ lKf;-.iulhe \s at with dcmandin.^' an unconditional rrs
■vitutionol' the \;,';t.line, \Lt ilu'jweie no sooiit r hi possession ol the country than they
|;i-ol^sh((l, as on the lornur conqucsr, a i;Teat tenderness lor the privile(:;es of the inha
l/u.ials; ;!nd refused tosMirendir t!n ir aecini^-iti'iu to tlu (irisoi\s, unless upon terms mon
i,i\()iir:.l)lelothe;Koi)k lh:in l.adhi (U otl. ivd (.wnhy the treaty of Mosson.
'rheCiiisons, havinj;- no prospi ct of assistance from any other (juarter, found them
,clves mider a ik cessiiy of accedin.a; to tiuse lunniliating stipulations. 'I'he l-'rench,
uith a view prohaMe (.;' nlainiii.u,- the \alttline in tin ir fjwn hands, contiiuud to dday
;he rcsiiiwtioii, audclnn-pvd every subscfiuciit negotiation with conditions still more
iinfavotn-ahle.
The S|y.iniai\.!s artfully a\;illlii:;- themselves of these circumstances, held out the most
llattLrin^- overtures (if accommodation. The (iiisons, encouraged hy Uksc wtll-timed
olllrs, and ineensed at the n pi ated instances of dujflicity they had lately experienced,
rose up in arms, and drove' the French from the Valteline. The treaty of Milan was the
conseeiuene.e of this revolution; a close alliance was concluded Ix'tween the Spaniards
and tile Orisons; and the \alte fine was restored under the guarantee of that vcrv power
which '\id originally excited the inliabitants to revolt.
This treatv,' contracted in the year 1().3.'5, seeuired to the Spaniards the passage of the
valley, which was the great object of the war, and restejixd the \'aheiine, Chiavenna,
and i}ormio to the Orisons, unde r ihe following coiulitions : an aet of oblivion ; the im-
uumities of the subject countries to be confirmed as they existed Ixlbre the revoiutif)ii
of 1620 ; no religion but the Catholic to be tolerated ; no person of any other persuasion
to be permitted' to reside, excepting the governors, during the two years they should
continue in ofHce, and the Protestants possessed e)f lands, who should not be allowed to
remain in the country above three months in the year; the privilegesuftlie ecclesiastics
!o be restemd in their full latitude.
A few alterations were made in the government of the \'alley, and some regulations
mtrodueed for the purpose of stemming the torrent of injustice and corruption ; they
eonsisted chiefly in a new method of nominating the governors, and in creating the ojlice
of assessor. Tl:e articles were guaranteed by Spain, and inserted in the capitulation,
or treatv, ratified m 1639, at Milan, in the presence of the deputies from the \ altelmc.
The deputies reproached the Spaniards for having summoned them to Milan, in order
to be present, in silence and with tears, at the subversion of their liberty; and, when
-he treaty was announced to the inliabitants of the Valteline, a general desj.air spread
♦hroui'h'all ranks. The people universally lamented that they In.d been deluded into
a revolt under a promi.se of protection; that they had expuided during this latal war
above 25,000,000 of florins,* for no other purpose than to procure an alliance between
Spain and the Orisons, and to be restored to their original masters, exasperated by their
revolt, and jJieparing to renew the former acts of injustice and t}ranny which had driven
them to rebeliion. )suv were llu se murmurs ill-grounded ; ii.r, except the total exclu-
sion of the riotestant religion, no material alteration was made in the lute of this vailey.
Since this treaty the laws hav- been no less perverted than before, the exactions oi
•.he iH)veuiers have cunlin-jcd as exorbitant, and the courts of justice as imejviitous and
• Ni'i'.f 2,'.>uo,000l, sterling-
N Ji
IN I !l 1", cr.VSU'.y (H iIlT C llToON^.
l/J..
)U
•ornipi. Tlie cinn-c i.i flu- ..dministratinu of j.isuoc his proved no allrvu.tion ; ihc
,,,,„i'.ii ol tlK' as^.svn's oliicc- :.u-v ul only K. -ivc tlu' sanction oi law to the; most lu..
nuitons nrormlii.i^^s, or to vary ihr mod. of opprcssl-m I h.s nuu.vatxm has hur,
nv>rc ova- at,uuL(l widuhis I.ad .iV.rt to th,. hnlk ol th. n, ulm:u.ts ; b
the- nobles \^crc: prinripallv snbj.ct to thr rapacity ol the Orison judges ; but smcc; Uu
pacilk^iliou, the pi(.pk havi' been morccxpr.scdtocvactions. ^^
^ nuivc du.sbrm.uhtdou.ilhe history of the \ altthnc to the pacdu at.on ol lb.>.
Since that pcri.ul u. material chan^. has taken place in the s.tt.at.on ol allan.. h-
sovcrei-ns I.f Milan have aluaN s cultivated the friendship ol the Orisons, and Uie ml.,
i)itantsof the X'alidine e.uU.red a rc-ul..r cr.urse of tyranny undeT the sroycrmnent ol
free state; confirminK a fact notoriou, in the annals ol ancient (rreeee. that no peo;
4re more op[)ressed than the .siibjeeis ol a d'jinoeiacv . *
Li.rri.H Lxw 1.
Cii'VcnwHiit oftliv ('(ilfc/ifif.
Tlir.V'alteline is divided ^noivraphi.ally into tiiree principal districts, and pulilically
into live i^overnmcnts. o- . ■ . -> -r r■^,r,^ ,u
The three districts are, 1. Ter.ero di S..pra, or the L'|)iHr District ; 2. Icr.'.ero d.
Mezzo, or the Middle District ; .3. '!'( rzcro di Sotto, <;r ^^^'J''^''"^^^^''!^' . ,, ,
The Vive governments are, 1. Of tlu Upper District ; 2 OI the M.dcle District, called
alsotheL^overnmcntof Sondrio; >. Of Tej^ru, ; J. Of Morbegno ; 5. Ol 1 raona.
Each of these live governments is subject to a magistrate appointed bv the (prisons.
who is changed every tNvo years. The magistrate .n er the middle district is ca led Go-
vernor of tlK^'alteline, and possesses, in some respect, a superior dcgre-co authority tp.
the others, ^vho are stvled I'odestas ; he is also eaptam-general ol the \ altelme.
But before 1 proccJd to explain the form of government, it may be necessary to .ay
before you the method .;fek cling the governor and podesta., to vvhom the Orisons dele-
gate Uteir authoritv over the \alteline. ^ . .
"" In l()(r? some dVorts were made to restrain the cxccshvc venality and in|u.ticc <>.
these magistrates, vvliieh were derived from the public sale of the g.nernnienis, and Ihe
,f,.r m.poUuu..e, .adlhe i.eutr.any -f .1.. Suiss au,l (iri^.asalo.u yny^-uU-d ;.■■ ..o.uiuU..i. <,1 ihr
:.tm' vuueut-,lucuuUaunM^l),.r.us. 'riu. iu!Kd,i,..n^. nrn.uol u .!..;; v. ;.. nl .,p,vvs-.M.
n,M ul.n:a.sum-non\^huhhruk...uMuil..Vah.li.,.. '1 1,. ml.,,lMU,u!. ..un, .,! uv ; he ■suh-
! n cm oi- Uu- L.s.:i.i„c .vpubli.. u..k up ^"-.us, dn.w- ...l Uu- t.r:vn> ^ov.rno;., x.i c!..Kau,^
Lu^ .si:.l.p...!eui.Nv.n^o„n .iu .u.nl. joi,. d l>y .!»■ u.au ■> ol li..nuK, .noC lu.v.Mna
,i Jc iv.n', as.isuaa., .ulur in.'.n U. S.I.. e.,„o,. o, Iron. ,!.■ hous.. ol Av.,.n.av,iU, -,■ cl Ha- me
alaU. . n> Frenel> rcpuhiu:, vMii. h l..i,u; ..1m, u...p.c.l !.v Uu r.y.lu.l pvo.n.cs, ll^-uojv, - ol
..UP.-, Iron, the n ■^oi„d plovir.e.s u.M.a.lly nu.d. li.ur .pp. u,-a«ee Inu -he (u.M.ns, ton. !,> ...
OS m- 1 . ti. nv .vA .vers, to tlu- mk dUaion ol ilu- f.'e.uh. . , iel, nuy luul U.n .uuv.a. y ,udv..cd to
^. , not only d.elaud M..li.,cUu It d. patic.. Inti i.tttn.ed .u. .i.wer U. ta. -|;-^;- -;-;-;-;;'
Uie rr.nehve.ur.a. li; . „ns.(puKcv ol' thi. .ilvncc , IJoaapaite .l.ei.U.i tUe < ont.st, h; do uain-t!-^
;i'voU;;U;,:A>..ces ind.pa,de,.l,a.deo,d^n,..d U.e.nuoa vUtich tlu-y .^^n ^
puMi.-. Thas alar a period ..f itear lliivr tu.tun.., Uu- \ alt.l.ue, (a-.a.-,.ia:a. .ndLoiu.a >^ ..
■•a.;.dn iucc-poiattd ^^^•h tl.e Mil ^iiesi', aiider u ivpublieai. l^r.u ol jovciaMieiLt
*;:(-
roxKV'J inAVEf.:. is ni u ;;r.tiT.AN i;;
^ uv ol' xhv lines for criminal oflVna--, hctwcin the: ( nWm-. and the irovoniors.* lo
,,a\t:itrormi)tionin tin: distriluition of tlicir ofHr, -, iMuUxiir.tion \n the Kovcmors tu'O
LunilMn rh:.ng<s Nvuc m;ulc Inst. ;<(! of appi-lntin.; one |".v,ii, lour cmidKbti's,
nou.inat.d hv the con.nunrnv lo whom the turnuf th' Mnn iKlni.-al, du-.v lots tor the
( haim'. Bn't tl is altLration uould have Ijctn atUndtd v.ith k-w hoiu liaal ilTccts, had i
not been followed bv a.iolhcr, ^^hich tripkd the siipmd of d.c i;ovcrnor,s, and precluded
ihun from anv share in Uu; lines: ytt these salntarv rci,nilations, which prevented the
Clnsons from 'sellini'- the j^overnmcnts at so liii^di a price, wcro a lew years after abolislicd
by the diet. In o. er, however, to preserve some appearance ol mipartiality nj the
ehoi.e of ma:V,strates, it was stipulated in the treaty of Milan, that three candidates
should Ur nominated bv llu- commnnity to whom the election belon-s, and tha one ol .
:1h se should be appo.n'i.d \a the di. I. V< t this moele is a mere formality ; three arc
t.l\\axs i.n V nted, but the eliel n.vtr iVil. to nominate the person recommeneled by th'
eoinnmnilv. Tlu^e ma-istra-ics are alhnved to be openl> purchased : in general, part
of d.e nionVv is assi-iied to the public f.n.d .;f the community, and the remamder disiri
l.utrd amoiu; the bodv of the people, in whom the ri^ht of election is vested, and w^iosc
vote, are sekh.m obtained withen.t additional bnbes. It will easily be imaK^med what u
dreadhil scene off corruption is opeiud by this mode of i.roceeelin.sr ; and how Ireciuent
ly persons are appointed lo the -overinnent., who are totally inadequate to the dischargr
'' 'I'liese magistrates, as representatiN . . of the sovereign state, enjoy the supreme autho
,itv, and are entrusted with the poucr of life and death; and thou i^h apparently con
trolled by the laws, devise means to cvaele them. Hut their authority will be best under
stood from an account of die civil and criminal courts ol justice:.
The ( riminal tribunal is composed of the governor, vicar, and assessor.
The u-ovcrn.^r arrests, imprisons, and examines the dehiuiuent ; though, according to
the letter of die law, no examination ought to be made but in the presence ol the vicar
and assessor. The criminal !;eing coiuicted, and the sentence passed, the governor
, niuN s the po^^•cr of remitting the punishment, excepting in cases ol high treason, pre
medltatul murder, or odier enonn.nis crimes. He has a small antiual stipend paid by
the \alteline, l)ut derives the chief part of hisincome Irom the fine, lor crimma oHences,
nf which he recei\es tuo thirds. In all trials he is bound to follow the penal statutes,
which are drawn up with meal precision and clearness. _ ,
The vicar is always a Clrison, and is chosen by rotation Irom the several commum-
lies • three candidate; are presented to the inhabitants of the Valt..line, who appoint one
of diem to th.e vacv.nt ofike. This nuxle, adopted in the treaty ol 16;)1) to check cor-
' h is :uces..ay u, ui.p.isc tl,.. ivu.l.:r tii.a, «lai. I us.. U..- unnl !;uvtraor simply, I apply it indi-s-
ciiiuiiKaelvU) tlic -(n.iH'a- of ih.: Valt.linc ami ih. l.-ur pu.K'st.i:,. , r ;, ,, ,„
\ a/whur^. boll, luuivc. .,..1 (ny,\^uvv.. ul.o lav.: v.rmea apon tlu' Cnsoas, have: not f.ule, to
,.,, n'u. r.l. llK- ill ..iVcrls rc.uhin^ iVoni this sul.^ of ^vu^'-''nnc..ts, uhuh is uurl-.onsc.l .y law ; hue
;;;,;;; 1.!::^ .^,vL.^ ^Un- .lisapp;o!>.tion i- su-o.u^.r tem.s than Furtuuutus Juvuha, lu ihc lollowmg
%!:i.l ■ d honor., et prlscriin. ad .iu;vsiuo.as illas prx...laras :,.p,rah.aa, noa uht.T MUum ;uubuu
,.t h,v-i.ionil.u:, voii .:otnpu;.s fu r.ut Omui. eniiu v.a.diu pru^uvJKUU, non -ecus ac ahx n.crc.;s.
\.unv %ero piiv.ai tauuuu lunniu.s nRavinioaia ilia cx.-nd.anl, scd .onununilaK-. iaUM.;rir ..■tiain
, .,n)..no;).:,Uur, n.-iuc t. ulHs,;tlMnt pr.vl^..iuuau .-.Muunimtatis .ann l.K^iUu.nil.us a. d.ctas js.u con-
.' :; pullos, .i,larun. in ip.onin, n>ana erat el.c.io, c.ua olVuii. ud sub.tuos ctulu. cn.ohnn<.nti.
eununala>a.i pn.v' nienuhus, .onsilio publi.o, .oi.aait..-, consUUUo p.vtio, n, •""'[''^ ~ ;;;;;: "^^J'
ct ,a- nuid an'b.^M p.,ss.l, p>,bli< is lab.dis p.rs. npu. (■oasi.n.ar.; Ind.;^,a p.oi.us a uea '^ >- ■^'<^«
, p,.u'iui iiLaa lain uupiler ct sc.d.r.t.; profana.xnl ac pro.umc.-uU lantnr. s .su enabau U
.,,1.1., indcvni, ide.Kjue ubi ^pe. aluju. lu.;ri .IVul^ebat, nuaxcs suas vcn.l.s csuone.aut. ct pi-
oiVfrcaulais ,a!diccbaiit.
M. iS iUT.
MiN i liv t;i 11"" Ml I son:..
\l2t
ti.* To
u)rs, two
iidiflitts,
[s for tlu:
;ts, luid it
irccliulccl
Jilted the
.il)olislicd
ity ii\ the
diulidatcs
i;it one ol •
three arc
;d by tlv
ienil, port
ler disiri
nd whose
:'d what a
IVecineiit
(Uschnrfjf
«c autho
:ntly con
est under
',ordinf; to
' the vicar
; governor
ason, prc-
(l paid by
\1 oft'ences,
ill statutes,
communi-
ppoint one
check cor
pply il indis-
not fiiik'd to
hy law ; liut
ihul'ollowing
[|Uuni aiubilu
lix nicrccb.
:Ui';.;ri\: (■ti.iini
etas SLU c,<jn-
fiiioluincnli.s
inos veiHltrc,
rou liln'i't.itc,
i ciiah.uit, ut
about 831. r-om thv Km.nmr .,1 ''''-,\;'' 'V '.,,,,,, , ;„ favour ..r ll.f prism..-,
fulclusiou, a. the via,r " "V'""- f , , vuuiu ' > \V1. , L urisourr i. c'.uvr u.l,
„ml to proem iujusttcc ";•-;>;- ,^^l I, ■"';,. uu i co„r,rn'> ,1,. scu.,„c.. Tor^
w, accouut ol iIk- process- is an\ l.tl ;a ll i uc r i,,|lictcil williout Ills consult, and
.urc, lor the purpose ol l"-'« -;;';»-'• ,™^J J al'l '1 ry, and the annual suin of
';;.;riSs het:!; ii;;e:i :.'.l::'::.;:x,t ..i iw every coi.uuaf,o s ,. ...u ...
applied, andeonlirn, 'l>^?^'''f »"■ I""" "S! \fn b,a ^p^^^^^^^^^^^ 1«^ 's -«■•
i=''^a!t.l:r ^S^Mch^^^^ -r ""^ Valteline any share
in the criminal jnnsprudence. _ ,♦-.». ,^r■^ th,- assessor oii^ht to 1)C a person
ibr connivhig al the goyernor's nijii.Uee. ,,^^..^, ^.^^^
think. lU. The exanunatton i^ secret nc, one Uau \^^^'^^\^^' K ,^,,^^ ,.^;.j, ,,,,,,
-i; e- pi^is vSpie .^:: of s:i;e|]^|J^^ .;;;,. ^^^^^ - .:;
to the \ icur ; or, lu other words, a'o the exa.unKttiuii is ste.u, .^
' Us\iully il-.c ivsstbbur t.it.hci' pays the vicu." 'Oi'
;ct •i 111' (jiUcc.
l,is .\.;>i-)f/..-.ti!ii;it. o;
L i-.e <
K'Um
,im:.U
(Of ^•^^\l.\ lUWria IN SVMI/.KI'.t.AM),
up ilH' process i;i the most iHvour.1,1. manner, and uv.y give what explanation h.
^'''l^n ,:omposi,>on is hukIc, the cum U l.ml I.cl^vrc the vicar an.l tl>o assc^or^ who aa
obij..d IcKive tlulrv,.t. aaordin^,Mo th. letter ot the law ; ^^^^^'^'',^'^^'^^;^,
scvur tJR P.n:.lties arc cither heavy l\;us or e.M-poral punishment, l. the lormcr c t^
c- mst'u re Vh"oe^nn,■r.■c•.i^.stu•o thirds of the line; and. as m the latter, he- has the
r:r:nenut,n., the puniOunent, eM.i>tin, .or the ny.t atrnnons ---'^^^IJ^-
,llv aee( uts a eommulalion in nvoney. d the prisoner .s al)le to pav . . ») ''^.'^ "^ "^
U, .nnnni. erinu ^ with imptn.ity. It i>, hoAever. a matter ol I tile com "^ ;-- ^^^^^^^^
,,„,„,,, ,,,,,hn- the pr.s.ner i. rieh or poor; m the hrsl instance, '>J " '' / .^ \^,^^
..petition Irom the prisoner h.n.v.ll m the latter Irom the pansh J ' z';";^ "^^^
punillnnent lor .he crime is eo.p.ral, du expjuecs att.ndun, -t arc " -^ j'^*^; ^ ^
Jx, ruii.n. r of C.oire must inllut ii : lor uhich rea.on th.; i.^overnor K^^^f / " ^ '^^^
ptnali\,andree.iv.stnmula par.sli a eompohU.un m money somewhat less than tite ex
pct.ee; of iuHictinK corporal punishment. ^ uristrites of dele-
^ \\\ mavaddto thislistol ^rKVauees the P^^^er possessed ly the naLpst a cs olc^^^^^^
..,,i,;.r tin ir authority nv ithoui re.iUin- m the government. U the deU•^^at • is a Cmsoii,
ia e 1 e V isten le ; if an inhabitant of the V ahel.nc, Tencnlc. He cither l.tirchascs
du- nn s nd Hrc,uisites upon a ealeuiation of their .ucrage value or is -«!--> >^ f^
In to the Rovcrnor. In son.e places the delegation is almost always bought by the
n e X n\ho resides upon .he .pot, and Ineomcs a perpetual judge ; m others a
ty of pe'rsons join to pl.rcdu.se the profits of tlu^magistracy ; d.ey ap,>oint d e no-
u.al delegate, and secretly diiect the processes. Such a ^f ^^Jl'^^^^i^, ^.^K^.lct a
seiiUd i^ nmnv, and, according to the exiaxs..on oi an elegant author,* establishes a
u holesale tralUc between criminals and courts ol justice.'
Irom this general viexv ol the criminal jurisprudence, wc may read ly mler tnc
,vre.ched sUu;aion of d.e mhabitants; where the supreme -^^f-^-^;;. 1^;^^:^;;,; ,^^
porary oHiee at an exorbitant price, and has an inadeqmUc salary J ^^. S '^.fj ^^^;»^^
nrolhs of his charge arise from the fines lor criminal ottences ; where U is «"^ .'^^"^^^^
{^.arraign and to ?onvict; and where he is himself the interpreter ol the laws, ol which
he is commonlviLmenant, die accuser of ihe party, and the judge. .
lave alreadj' n. .tiuned die power which the f.-vernor enjoys op.mh^
.Oenees except the me>st atrocious crimes. A P'^?-^^"" ^V^';* '^'"^\'^^.'^f . f '^^^^^^^^^^
■ind there are printed papers that contain its lorm, in which blank spaces a.c lelt Or the
nam o the puson, lhe> crin.c committed, die date, and the signature ol th( judge I
c liJ^^ a copy of a liberation v\ it brings to my recoUeetiou diosc acts oi indulgence,
• Kdcirs Pi'iiicipUs of I'c/uil Livw, p. fil.
t Tlu lullowluij; is ihc trjnn ol' a libe'i'alioii :
lV)dc.iUi UcKe'iUc clclla C;iiuis<lizionc di Tirano,
c svui Forliiunizc, kr. Ciudice di- Malctici
con Meio, c Mislu Impcro, c eou
luiloiila di Spada, kt.
r.r u nor .Iclla pros, ate, cd in o.^ni uUn, nu;^lior modo, Uc. abhiamo lib.rluto rd assollo, sicconic
:U,ciiamo ed as^.,hi^Iao, lib.ro vd as.olto e.:.eiT voijluuuo, c du la.a'.an.o, chc sui.
Here the' name of the; person is ii.si I'ti'i!.
,1, .o;.M, e: c,Kalsi.ia p.n. pccuuiaria, a.l;itra,iu, o alUiuiva del Corpu, nclla .pudc s.a lacorso, o ahbia
puUUo iucorieiv per a\ei<..
\\ii I M rin ( ovs rn'. «»! i m.
ill N .
'JiV^
at ion \\(
who arc
arc vtr\
«
■nuT cir-
- liiis the
he jJfCIK-
,c intans
> the rich
cc to the
receive a
(•use the
lij, as the
umits the
u the ex-
i of dcle-
a Cirison,
)urchases
nsil)le for
ht by the
others, a
It tl\e no-
c called a
ablishes a
infer the
,es a tein-
principal
lis interest
, of which
cloning all
beratione ;
eft lor the
judi^e. I
lUulgence,
Ito, !ilcconic'
(ii'so, o ;ihbi;t
which the Catholics obtain thiin Konu for the absolution oi tlu n- Hins . \n itli thi, d-i
fcrenee, that the acts of incliilKenre rell . i., a fntuu -.tati , tlu- l.bria.ion I-, tins lile.
The i.ii.e of these pardons v.uirs arc.rdin^' to \\w in iKintiid-.' ol tli.' .nin., tlu cm-
dilion r/f the culprit, and ni.;re partirnl.rU the time in u Inch it is ^n-anK d ; tor th-- ..iin.
is trreater wlun a L-ovcrnor lirst enter, upon his oilice, thai, wh, n he is raniM!:.
Sometitnes, dlnin^? the last two or tin., hours pn.vi..us to thr exptrahun ol llv^
„flice, p.rdonsnv.vbepn.ur.dal tlu low. M rate; and was assu.vl Iron. K'Kh
uuthoriiy, that a liberati. n lor l.o.nicidc has not uulVe(|uently been obtat.ad lor aboMt
four-pence. . , . , . i t . .1 v .•.
Do not suppose that diis account of tlu- vena'tty wlnrhre.i^us thn.up,..oMt th ■ N a...
line is exai^ffciatcd; f r 1 have taken }.-.vat paius to ascertain ti.e truth, a.ul U hasbeeij
confirmed by pei-sons of all rai.ks, both in the Ciriso.i and subject countries. Not^wil.
vou be led to imagine diat all d.e Kovcuors are e.p.ally rapac.o.is and ..njnU. l.ike
the Roman pioconsuls, some car.-y their rapine to the he.Kht, ntlurs a.v lesscxaci; j^-.
and a few are free even from die most distant nnputat.i.u ol injustice.
The civil courts of justice remain to be considered.
AlthouLdi the eovcrnor presides and passes sentence, vit, by a s.ut^ul.ir priMicgc
the cause'is not always Uft to his absolute decision : he examines llw N\.tnvss- s. an(
draws out the processes, but, at the recpiest of c ither party, the eau.c n.a> be ivl.rrer,
to an arbitrator, who is called Savio. He is either nominated by the plai-.tiil and de
fendant, or, if U.ey cannot v.^^ixv, is chose., by lot i.. the fuUou ini;- njan.ur : the pKnn
tilVand defendant choose each six perso..s : f.om the si^ apponitcd by the de enaam
the plaintiff selects one ; the defendant nominates one of tlu six ( nosen by the plainliM,
and these two persons draw lots who shall be arbitrator. 'I'he arbitrator then examines
the acts of the process, gives his opinion, which is called in the statutes ol i.ie country.
II Consiglio del Savio ; and should the governor refuse to pass sentence, die .opinion
of the Savo is ipso facto a decision. .„ ,. , • . 1
From this decision an appeal lies to two arbitratois, called lVol)i, who are appointed
by the parties in the manner above mentioned : should they di^agl•^•c•, tlu .. the two par.
ties amicably nominate a counsellor, who accedes to oiu: of the I'rnbi ; this sentence i.
final, if it concurs with diat of the Savio, buK.dierwise, a fa.dier appeal lies either U,
the syndicate or diet, and ultimately to the several communities ol the tlirec leagues
When the governor decides in the li.st inslanee he receives 3 per I'cnt. ol die r, ,nie.stc rl
property, but only 1 per cent. N\heii recourse is had to arbitration, the other 2 pu-cenl.
being paid to the Savio. ,
By this singular privilege of referring to arbitrati(.n in all causes <-l property, tin:
civil courts of justice aie not open to such corruption as the eriminul tribunal ; \et ve-
nality has taken so deep root in the alVaiis of this unhappy country, diat bribe.) hnd.
its u'ay even into thesi- ti-ibunals. \V'lu n die civil causes are bionght into the govern-
or's court, and decided by him without the intervintion of the Savio a:id I'rob., dure
is an appeal to the syndicate, a body whose ofhee I shall now explain.
Here the rvimc is nu:ntiuMi.<l.
Item. lXio.'iiiaIoai(.sai;imc<.is;i, cmnmessn ; •mcidciif ; rUuIUn.U'; furr.^ciitcM.' (lipui.l.uir i!..lK-
niTiia'S.c, Sii.-. Per.) cussiinilo. Sec, aiuuilkmdu, k.:. roinmui.cU.n-lo, hii'. nui)')i.uult). kc. rrsnuu ikIo,
fccc supplcmlo, kc. Llhsci.do Noi iilUi suddcua LibciMzioiu: divnitiu aU<;.a I'Autuiit.^.ron c -n, w. "
aUcsu una tcimc coiiposizKHH' cun Noi, in iiomc aucora dell' K.C,". U. i.v.'. i; pui^uuci
Dal, in Tirano dal I'i'cturio (;u'vSlo iiii>ru ■■ '''"
VOL. V, '^ ^'
.\\ \\\<- (;nl oil urv two yc;irs M lit n iIk' in:i!;;i">tra('u*% cspiiv, s\n<ln;.iti's;irf ain<<)iiUtd
i)y ilic npiililu III' till' (Jtis)ii'i. !( r tli" pni'iioNO «ii im|iiiriit).'; \\\\n iln ;»liiiiiii ,tr iiiun ol"
tli».; s( vt rtl jjoNi riu»i>, ;iii(l nt iititriii;!; jppiiK I'roin tJKir <ln;isi(»iis. 'I'liin court is com
jios. (I nlU'iiic iiKiithi I'l, iiu'liiitiu^ (111 |)i\si(Kiit, I'liosiii ri'cipnx .illy hy tlic cnniiniiMi
iir., thru Iroiit «.:i» l» d .i;;iii . Tin} iiuikr a ciiTuit into i.irli ol tlu- !»iil>jvct |iroviiicc.s ,
'iindMit |iii»( lim ifioiis, ill it tl\<y .irri\ idy ton ci ivi- nil .ii:i;iis:ition»i ,i^r.iiii>>t ilu- govern
ors, L\aiiiiiii' uitiKssc', (Ik'kI*, iippeuls, and iniiij^.iti t'nii>», wiilioul tlu cone iirri nee o)
the vioariiiMl iissiiisor. 'I'hiy do not, liowvvrr, liu.illy dittrmiiii.' in civil cuiists, wliiil.
»iuy 1)1 itiiirul lioni tin ir di rision to the diit. Tlir s\ lulic.iti whirh s\as iiitiiulicl to
oppose corruption '.iiul injiisiii'c, is r.i wrtlkU ss the j^'iv it support «)!' l)o;h ; nor can it
he oihtrwisr, lor the sMidics pnreliase tlu ir olhce Ironi the siveral coininnniiies, and
as their salar\ ii very sni.ill, can only ninihnrsi ihetnselvea hx rtei iviiig hrihi s from
lhejn(l|;(s tr I'rom the apj'i II nils. Tin ir ollici' is honi^hi I'or a^riater or smaller sum,
as more or less appiah ol < onsefpience an- t(» he siihinitted to iluir arhitralion. And
what occasions still j^re.iter ahuses, when a cause of f^real it iporiance is to he rtferntl
to the s) ndieate the governors frecpienily |)iirchase from the communities, in vvhosc
rii^hl the election is for that lime \estid, ilie powir of nominatiiiL;- the syndics, and of
course appoint thiir own eriiiture. Hence this coml ib btcome bo corrupt as to givr
tiseto a proverl), " As venal as the symlicate.''
Ilaviii;;; thus eiideavourid to draw a}i;eiural sketch fif the ci\il and rriniinal jurispru-
dence in this country, i shall now mention the domestic .idministraiion of atlairs.
All puhlic concerns which do not fall under tin jurisdiction of the Grisons, are dis-
cussed and determined hy a council composed of live representatives, one from each dis-
trict, which meets as oc( asion rc(jinres at Sondrio. Previous to its .'■iitiiif^', the puhlic
notary writis to the several p.irislus of the li\e f^ovenimuits, inlorminj^ them of the
business to he transacted : each parish has its mi elinj^, in which ever) hou'ieholdcr |)os-
st-sses a vote ; and each district has its assembly composed of deputies from the b? vtral
parishes, who choose the representatives. In all alfairs of intporlance, the re[)resentativcs
are bound to \ote in conformiiy to instructions received from their constituents, and
all cases of importance are decided b) a majority of voices. The council is empowered
to demand a redress of f^rievanees from the (Jrisons, and to remonslraie aj^.inst infrac-
tions of the privileges granted to the inh.ibiti'nts by the capitulation of Milan. 'I'hc
governor of t lie \'alteline is present, but has no vote.
The tribute which the \ alteline pays to the Orisons is so small, the salaries of the
governors so inconsiderable, and all duties so trifling, that most writers, who lia\e had
occasion to mention this valley, have described it as the most happy and the least op-
pressed of all subject provinces: willioiit reflecting that notwilhs'anding tlu se advanta-
ges the country is annually drained of a sum very disproportionate to the ability of the
inhabitants.
It is dini<:nlt to ascertain the exact amount of this sum, as it arises chiefly from the
secret as well as public proli's (jf the courts c/f justice. But when we consider that ihc
greater part is procun el by extortion; that scarcely any distinction is made between in-
noeinee and gnilt ; that I'reat crimes are committed with impunity, and |)eity olKnces
severely punished; v\e ma) add, that the mode of exaction is more detrimental to the
(iountry »luui the loss of the specie itself; inasmuch as a corrupt udminisiraiion of jus-
tice in the worst of all oppre ssions.
The clergy of tlie Valieline are not responsible to the ordinary courts, their immuni-
ties being so exorbitant as to render them almost independent of the civil authority;
•'hey arc only atneivible- to the court of tiie bishop of Como. If a priest is guilty of any
A\i) IN iiiL i.iit/Niiiv 1)1 nil. MiinoN'::
•)U
littiiiii of
is com
[iniiunni
jov iiict's ,
;^<)vcrii
Iriiiicc of
s, wliiili
iiuliil to
lior can it
inks, and
11)1 s f\\)\n
illcr Slim,
J(»n. And
)i rtl'ii ri d
in whose
•s, and of
as to givr
I jiiiispru-
lirs.
s, arc (lis-
in each dis-
ihf public
Iku\ of tlie
holdi r |)()S-
ilic s' vcral
ri.si.ntativcs
tucnth, and
I inpuwtrcd
i'lsi infrac
lilaii. The
l.iri< s of ihc
lo ha\c liad
he Itast oj)-
sc advanla-
bilily ofilie
lly from ihe
itkr tlial ihe
between in-
•uy oiKiiees
lental to the
iiiun of jus-
eir iinmnni-
l iiinhority ;
juilty of any
ini^denvc.inor, his person eaiuiol be sienri-d without ih< <oik nrri'iicc r,f the lil'.ho;), and
•••overnor ol the district in which die eiiinr w is coinniitted. It i» thi ri lort t xtn in'.h
dillirult toI)rin^; an teclesi istic to jnstiei , as iinpunil) is<,isily i)ureh,t>».il,ei'h(T l)y ?,c
curiii!; die favour of the bish<ipS \icar, or(.l thi: in ij^isirate. Nor are tht .c jtrnic iou-
priviU^'is ronfmed meril\ to the (l<rf;\, but ( sitiid t«)all pirsoiu weririii;/;:in eec.leslas
ti( al (hcss, wiih the pirmission ol tht bish-ip or( onio.
The (Irisoiis have lr'»pniiil\ null ivoiiiul to abolish these iinnuinitii "», lait .'tbMiy <
without ellect. The iioblts ol tlu N'alliliiK are inteiested If) support the pruilr^es i<i
theeler^'V, because tlKy can eisilv oI)tain ilir perniis-,ioii of wt jriiif; tin im |(;^ia'.tiral
dress, and can secure th ir propi.ri\, i)\ lea* iiij;- tlnirestatis to ih? elirj;} atlheeN'iiic
tion ol all the heirs n iin<(i in the sin i« ssioii. Such i st ites, «; illetl Ik in lici i ^f. ittilitia, an
Very con^mun in die N'.ilteliiK-, and cannot be seizul for dibt, or eonftscatid.
All civil cnisis of the cler|j:y, b. low the value of two huiiduil livres, arc decided
by the vicar of ihr bishop ol C'omo ; al)ovt ilnl sum thi \ arc broii^lu bcjon ih(
bishop. An appeal from his decision lies to tlu po[)e's nuncio al Lucerii, from him f'
the ecclesiastical tribunal at A(pii!ca, and from iheiicc to Koim .
Ll.TTl.K LXX\ II.
Tffffi'h,..SL)H(ino....Jiur<lutc.s of the Painter Li^^^drio Mar!»'>ffu>,...l)e!t'hi<j
INSTI'Al) of proceeding by the ncartst road liomTiranolo Sondrio, I nude w cm
ouit by Ti i^jlio. I traversed the plain of Tirano, rii li in all the produ. lions of natiir.
and continued for some way al the fool of the norlhi rn rid^e of mountains, \\hi(h arc
hij^^hly cultivated to their verv summits. Lower towards the south-east, and fiiriher to
wards the north-east, the tojjs'of the rugged Alps make their appearance j^iistening with
snow. I passed through a coniiiui* '.I vine) aid, and the soil is so llrtilc, that coin, millet,
flax, and hemp, arc sown amoiif^- il.e vines, which oveth.iii^ in be uiliful listooii',. l",\ery
village is adorned with a thick giove of chesnui tices, whose rich and dark foliage pro-
dlicis a pleasing ciVeet.
Teglio situate tl upon the lop of a nviuntaiii, about nine miles from Tir.iiio, and
twebe fronj Sondrio, is a long straggling place, ;iiid contains about three himdi\d
hous's. Close lo the town are ihc ruins of a fortnss standing upon an insulated rock,
and formerl} cste< med of great strength. This elevated spot ( niumands a \ciy rich and
extensive prospect from Tirano lo the lower |»art of the valley beyoiul Sondrio, as fir
as Morbegno. 'i'he governnu nl of 'i'lglio is said t() comprise the tnilflh pnl of ill-'
X'alteline ; it is the most pupnloiis district, and contains about • iglii ilionsaiid souls;
it produces in a good season much more corn than is sn!Ii( ient lot thr eoiisamj)tioii o;
die inhabitants, and rivals Sondrio and Tirano in the goodiuis of its \\ini .
Finding little at Teglicj but ihc face of tlic country loi"xcitem\ curiosity, I procee'dt, d
in my journey to Sondrio, through a tract e(|ually cultivated with that whii h I harl al
ready passed. I descended b\ a gentle slope uiilil 1 came to the Ailda, w hie h I I'olloWi d,
as it roars through the plain, sometimes eoniini.d in a narrow ehanin I, soim limts > \
panding in a wider bed, and threatening the country with eoi.'.inual imindutions.
Sondrio is the capital of the valley ; the residence of the governor and u[ the vic.n*
but like all the low iis I have hilherto seen in the \'allciine, seems deserted, and diiplaN -
little appearance of trade or aniniaiiun. The town, partly built iii a t/lain, v.ii.'! ['.ail'.
• Sixtv-foiir Valicliuc livres -- .i pO'.;Mi s'l .viii'
'/,'.
i k: VV4... . 1^ ..V f r »r Ri. » WD,
n\ii^\\ ,1 focL, l^ |)l.i( « (I ir. .1 \ v\ roin.iuti>; ^ittntiou, iii llu' txtrrnuty of .i iiuTou *f»ilU'y,
Mill (Kr)i)>i< << ))mi!i si(|, . Ill tl). M lit ti. f*, .1 iMrloiis torMil ulih li iri'|tuiitl\ mvciHuwh
il^ luiiiks, M.iiiN o| tin liMiiM 1 .'i\ \i.r\ .i.i < is; ; im 1 (jlivrvtil tli< .inuM»l ihc. Virion-
li, l">rnRil\ ilx S'iVirii^.iis of tlu'* c HMitiy p.iiiUcd upon tlu- u.ilU; llu>r.»rn»s npritriit
nijf .m cnnriHoii- *>i i[iii.i rm^Iiin^' a mm i i hi. j.»wj», arc too run.irk.itilc to tsoapc ol>
>( iv.iti III.
'I'll! \altiliiii, iioMi 111 la i,;Ii')r)iirli<.)'id to It.ily, has iinliiind a tasti- lor llic line ar«^,
hhI ^um.til^^ st\rr,il cullvi'tions «»i |iii(m\s wliicli ;»rc not unwottliy ol' nfitii'i-. This
roiKitiN, howiMc, li l^ |.roilii.i (I liu .irtcts «-! any iniiiiLiu't. . I'utni Li^.irio \% almost
tJK f.tily p.iinttT u!io di nrvv, to l»t' m»'ii'.ioin.d,aiKl Uis tKunc is siMrc^lj known Ixyond
tlir liinit.s nl die \ ,ilu Ini'.'.
Li|;.n'io was lioiii at Sondiio in l(>H(t, ol' llu: ancient family of Li^ario, wliicli took
its n.nni' from .i niiidil'oin-niii ^illcM.'. H iviiiL;- discoM n;! a livily ]l;( iiins, and a tasir-
lur tlk' cU;;.iht arts, lie \\^^ suit wlkovmn^' to Uomi', nncKrtlu ciri of I^izaro llildi,
from whom iu k.iint that iNactncss iif design which charactirisis tla Homaii s( liool.
Trom thcitci Iu* np.iirid toWniix, and passed some time in sttnd^in;; that rx(piisite
I oJoininLi,' for wjiii h IJK Wiatiiu ni riU rs ari' distini;ni«,lii d. Ilr niadi himsi II foit
kiionn at Milan, u hire Iu lui t with some rniour.iuC' in' ni ; and in 17j7 rt tiniud tu
the N'aUiliiK'; Iu faiiid, houivri, Intt liiiK ( ni|)Iouiu'nt, until he was hr)nonrrd with
tllv. paironajj;v- of e.oimt l)i s.ilis, mvoy from (Ireat Britain t. tlu- rcpnldie of the
(»^i^Olls. As hr roif in n pui.iiion his liusimss incrvasicl ; bnt hi ini^' always poor he
was fiKpiiiuly cohhhIUiI to finish his protlmiions with Mich haste, as ruuKriil ii im-
possible to };ive all oIiIkiu ih it perfection, whidi he was cap ihk of bcsiowinij. Ilcncc
arises that Inviju.ility nhicli is so rcniirka!jlc in his piintin^'s.
'I'Ikiv isscareilv a i Iniri h in tin Wilu'inv which dot s not poss( -ys oiu; of his |iietnrts
the most capital oi' his pieces are the mart\rdom (jI St. tin gory, in one of the ehnrehes
alSo;,diio, and St. He indict, in llu ehapel of a nunnery near the town. 'I'luse were
his l;iti><t |)uforn».in( I s ; and as llu y were, contray to his usual custom, fmislud with
}^reat labour and exactmss, ma\ he considered as the test from which we ou(i;lit to es-
tiniate Ids al)ihti' s as a painter. The li^^urcs are well }(roiij)cd, the principal characters
disliiuily m.trktd, and the expression of the luad- is adniiiahlc ; the bl\ le of tolourinp
is lively wiihoiit heiiu; piudy, and chaste uilh'x.t bein^' dull. A few il..}s .ifttr he had
painial St. 11 IU diet, he wassuijed wilh a violent lever, and ex])irid in 1752, in the
67ih year of his aj^e.
Ligario is deseribi d by the connoisseurs as a painter who united correctness of design
to beanl) of eoloiiriiig. lie is ntnarkable for gronpini'; l»is li^iire.s to the best advan-
tage, and his luadsare drawn with a noble siniplicit\ ; lie is, iiowever, represented as
too much inclined to an imitation of tlu antifpu ; his figures olten resemble statues, and
i!k folds u[ hisdraper) fill wilh too much pruision, like the W't dtaiery in the sculp-
ture ol the ancients, 'i'he eliar.icler ol his faces is chielly Cirteian ; bnt, ii is remarked,
th.it tluy are too similar Uj<aeh other, and look like tlie poritans of persons of the
same f.nnily ; a circnmslaiice not micsiial i(i those, who loo sirvikly copy iheautitpie
h( side pain'.iii;:, Li-ario was skilled in nuisic, mechanic i, and agriculture, and has
kfl b.h'i'ul hiiu sj>eeimens ol no (^rdiiuny aecpiamtance with each of those arts. He
made, lor his own amusement, an oig.in ol large dimensions, and constructed a
clock wilh a cvhndrical pinduh.m, reuuirkable for the accuracy (jf its movements.
He was foi.d (A ru.riiii: plants aiul sinipks, and was so much attached to the study of
sigrieul.uie, liiat he wrote instructions lohis fainilx ujion die cheapi s! and best method of
• Mluvati'j;)- He ciultavourcd to iidic:".' into his son '.uh] d.ughier, Ciesar and \'ictoria,a
/
4 ■-
\u\ r*> IMC Mfyrr^ oi 1 1< i «,i,i.ioN.r.
i):».>
\'i«»t oij-
ipi. ul>
III • rirls,
Tliis
^ .tllDOSt
Inyoiul
n li tntilv
n.iiii.
I -It liuol.
sill lirst
mud to
ltd with
•)l the
po(ir lie
K (I it im>
lU iicc
|iK.iiirts
cliiiiThcs
ICSt' HtTC
>)ki\ with
!;iit to cs-
;h;ir:ict«.rs
coloiiriiip
xr he had
i'2, ill
the-
of design
.1 adxaii-
stntcd as
;tuc3, and
hf sculp,
linarktd,
lis vi the
J auti(iuc
, and has
irts. He
nuctcd a
)Tcmi-'iits.
study of
IK ihod of
Victoria, a
ioii(hir«.«i for the |>f)ljti h'h. 'I'lji yf^oili lollnwul ih* ir I'lther'n prnfissjon, Imi ,,|th'iii;;li
not u'iihoiii s'liiu; (le^r^i' ul iiuiit, iailul of «''|iialliii>; hi n|Hitatii)ii. \'i«'totia n'ii->
cliiiU> <li^'iiiiiMii'.!i( (I l<;r In r vUll in mh.A and iMstriinn n» al nnisK'.
1 I'oiL tlii^ n\t>riiin^<: to sii tin panning *il St. IKiuilitt, .it a nunnery ahont a inn«'
and an hall IrMin .S'>ndria ; l>a\in(.<; cxaniintd ihi painiinu, the ahhist sent n iikshii^c,
di siring ila lavour of n»\ (wjnipany, wliith I a{ti|iti{| with pUasuri'. L'p<"> rnlcrinp;'
the parlmit, I ni:i(li n»\ olxismci to tin ahjjtss wIim, ni coinpaiiy with two imiis, ^^.l^
uat(<l on thr (.iIkt sidi ol tin gralr. Alin the usual <'Mnplin»-nts, and ni'iniiii s jl I
was pleavd with the pietun . uine and eakih uere bronghl in, the wine was the pro-
duee oi tin ir ouii vineyards, and was exeeiitnt ; thi. eakes were shaped like .skulls and
[)oneh.
The ahhessand her IVinids Ih havrd with great ease and politeness . they asked many
<|uesiions rvlaiing l(» I'.ngl.ind, natural to person^ st(|ueslered from soeiety i and one of
lilt n» ap()I('};isid lor tluir enrio'^ity, hy ri-inarkiiig that vvonien wiTi' not liss mr|nisilivc
or less fond cjli.ilking, bicau-e tlay wire shut up in a nuniKr) . 'I'lie jx.iion wlu niadi'
this remark was pale, hut not (itiiii.ilthv ; lur ligure was rentarkahiy line, and she had
been verv handsonu : a disappoiniinent in love, as i atn infornKil, first indneed Iv r to
taki' till- Veil, and to l)ur\ so niudi Id aiii\ and iK ganee in a convent. Struck with hei
manner and addn ss, I eoiild not lulp wishing that sin.' may ne\i.r liw to regret sneh a
itep, and may feel all th.it ease and iraii'juirny of mind which are e.\pecled, hut no*'.
Uuays found, l)\ ihosc who t ik< the veil.
I am just rituriHil loSondrio. from a small excursion to Morbcgno, and towards tin;
^Xtrcmiiv oi the \'.ili( line as far as Dcliljio. Near Soiiilrio ihi vallev is aI)out tw(i
miles in breadth, and remarkal)ly i\ rtile in vines and all kinds of grain. The right chain
of mountains is eloihed almost from the bottom to the summit witii a continind vine-
■;ar(l, which is estcemeil lo yield the best wine in ilie N'alteline. 1 rode along the plain
which sirei'hes, without interruption, Iroin Soiidiio to the lake of Como, 'i'he middle
part of this plain is occupied, and frequently overflowed liy the unruly Adda, and ben.g
marsh) \ieids nothiiig !)Ul course pasturage ; the sides rise g'raduilly into gentle aeclivi.
lies, and display a rich \ iriet) of natural proiluelions.
Morbcgno lies on the left side of the Ailda at the foot fjf the' southennnost chain ; it
ts the h.mds(.'mest town in ll.i' V.iltelinc, [ind app ars to have more sliops, and to earr\
on more tr.ide tliaii .ill 'lie (ytliers uiutiil. M. I'ianta, the present podes'.a oi Morbcgno,
no sooner he.ird of m\' arrival, thin he' poliiei) wailed upon me at tlie inn, and in\ iteil
nu' to his house. Kiialing ih.ii I was ilesirous of pnjeeeding to Delebio, l.e insisted upoti
Accompanyiiig mc ; and liaving ordered hi«. carriage', prop(jseil an imni.'diale departiuv,
that we might re mm to his house by supper. M. 1*1 iiit.i is the same genilemaii lo
whom 1 Was obliged for so hospitable a reception at his house at Cerneii'. ; and I am
hapjjy to lind that hi is among the luw who act with honour anel integrity in this land of
txtoriion. Wiun vie.ir of the \'altelinc, he disehan^ed the duties ed that imp(;riant
uHi.e wid) great credit, and iias entered upon his government with the same spirit of in-
tegrity. There is a pleasure in receiving acts ol politeness in a fore ign country ; Inii
it is a double siii-^faeliou lo be obliged to j>ersons w hose characters are deserving of die
liiglv -it esaem.
'J'he ro.id from Morbcgno to Delebio runs along the foot of tlv chain of mountains,
wiiieh separate the Valieline from the \'eii«.*i.m teiiiiories. This chain having a nor-
thern aspect yiilds few vines, but \> richly clad with hinging grrives of chesnut-treeii,
ehec(juered w itli n.eadows and lieWls of corn. The' Naiteline exi)anc(ed grr.dually ar
W'e advanced low.nds liie Like of Cinno ; iu ihis pari the s'.hole piain is ehielly .i n\ora«;-
/
^^m
o.u
COKli'S TnAVr.1.3 IN SV/n7.PRDANI),
exposed to the hnuMons of the AM., s.huh ^'^-y-^^];^''^':^'';:^;.^^
M iKainsto be c,r i^aai i.uport.iur iu tl.i; track o* ilus v.,lU-y, is clue I > ^'P '-'
"'X- r '.^ slinHolc^l.lV.A.UU.nn-
:'™;Ik' n 'k,in or , 'K.u,,<.n,.. I. L .Inv., a cm.inucd vuv,vard w„h null», 1 Mrl.,sh
.,„•.. 11. V Hwl lu-mi) liTowinu- Ijctuicn the rungi'sol Vines.
Tl.e nln ^t c a.^es oHhc V'alteUnc arc greatly heightened by the nun,e-ous re-
„nh^(.' HI riresses and castle.; they were all disu.autled soon alu r t!u- eapa.-la.
o ol V 'a • roni a rceent cxperienee that the inability of the Onsons to prov.de
n vhl M iieieu ^ exposed then, to the enemy, and rendered them Or he
; ;.s t I.U e ol .n.,ovanee' rather than protection, h m.ght be n..apned iu t
s^c of h se Lressesou^ht to have been retained for the pnrpose ot awen;^ the -
^Z m s such an intplicit eoulidenee, however, is reposed by the Gnsons in Iu .. a-
nlnty !!rtl\e a^^^ by/ne hou.e ol' Austria, Uuit they do not mauuatu a s.nglc sokher
thrjuiihoiit die whole X'alteliue.
LF/rTi:U LXXVIll.
Commerce..., Produrrinis Po/}ulation....Of the Fa/tc/'mc.
Till' rhi(f commerce ofthe Valteline is carried on vvith Milan and the Orisons. Thi
, n,lm 1 CM^^^^^^^ nine aul silk, ^^ hich im-n the balance of trade .n its lavonr ; they
c:;;;;:! the XbhJnIs to exist witl^nt any manniUcturcs, and help to snpply the money
^^'n^um^^lnrilS^Gn:;;. Germany, U.e Venetian states, Bormio, and occ.
.•u n. Uv o MU m Upon a ron^h ea.lculation 73,()()() soma, or norse-loads, are annually
sionally to ^; ';^"- J^^^ ^" ^ ^^ •';^,,^, ,v,r a pound sterliiu^, which may be considered its
cx,u>rted : ts >/: [^^^ ^ ^"^ ;,,^^;;' j, ,, j^j ^.^ic, and Basle. The district of Dele-
"^^Z^l^^^rl^^^^'^^^ Jhc neighbourhood of ^ndrio the next irj
it UK the d strict of Tirano supplies an inferior sort, 'riirec thousand pounds of
'\" r -^'r \l,i<h Isl^^^ as Mood as the silk procured from Piedmont, is sent
tl;;:;i":: E;1-! I:;^::;; o'c^t^nd. TI. great^ part is wound in the Valteline.
■r^^:£^ rrtm'Milan, corn. ricJ, salt, and silken str^^; irom Germany
.nrl Sxvit-erl uid cloth and linen ; from Genoa, si)iccs, coflee, and sugar.
" mVe^^e no manufactures in die Valteline, and almost all the menial trades are ex-
''" The pJ>iS of the Valteline may be estimated fVo.a die following rougb sketch :
Upper District contains - ^^'?.nn '°"''"
Government of Teglio - - 8,000
Middk District - - - 8,00
l.ower District • - i^^'^^
Total
62,000
• 6'-c Lctlcv ^9.
AND IN 1 ill- *:"l'N »'< ' '" ' '''• f''"'"-''"^^-
'.^J.i
The silk,
y cxjioni.d
orlxiJino, 1
t con»:»ri.
ilu.'.cls'inic
Icl.'s (»l '.Uc
L't, Turkish
in\c'*ous rc-
u- capili'hi-
1 to prov idf
icni for ihe
a^lnrd, !iat
viWiS, the in-
in th'. i;:ua-
inglc soldier
Prisons. Thi
favour ; thfy
'■ . money
yt:
io, and occa-
iirc annually
onsidcrt'd its
[rict of Dcle-
) the next in
nd pounds of
nu)at, is sent
LJiC Valtcline,
r, and cattle,
oni Germany
trades are ex-
)ugh sketch :
r ,. co..a,es of du. p..s.Us, . h.h .. ...iU of ...... ';^; j- ^->;|f;:-
,allv uitlu.U Kktss u n.d... . : uUcra sc ..rA ^^^ ; ^^^"^ ,^,,^^, ^,,^,,^ ,),,, rags,
„niform ai)|...ranrc ot dnl and povc.t I he ^^^\^XJr]w\v vvret<hcd m:m.
a„c. .iKk only Ibod was I- ■■;;';•;., ;",':.^, t r, i," t„l ;r„'xinK ,. wi,l, a liulc
meal. lamne,acituaiouKn n , ,,,,ri^iKa from abso nte want. But it is h
country in vvWcluluMKupl. 2;';i'" Tl;^l"^u,'nd^
A, otlcrcm.c o wat.JKc\n..sproc^^ l.on, .Ik- p,cs.,« state ., pr«p>r y tow «1
J,avc groanul '"; .f »;[; ^.^ "X , att ,, 1 ... arc s.,ppos.:<\ .o possess hair.l,,:
vawon, a..d .kh.crs n.ar '''" " -- / r, „,,snnt i.i sui... ..nasuiv iKrmiitk.l
by the iertl.ny ol tht s,„l. 'h ''''"" „ ,„ , ,, hMI ol tvl.i.l. is d..liv,avd
r.E..i.: i",.:;:;':.:; .tai t'':"'..^ .•;:>. ^°. '>.. sn.- . i..--.-" ■•"^" •"^- ^ "- '"^>
,„d their ra„,.l,es .„„,kll,eklt ^"^";' '^'^'^^:'^::l,,^ ,„ ,he e.tl.iva.ion „1
sil^^t: t ":ir.';^n':m ^:;;di:ider rJaVd;r:iii:.wor.,,s, a,., are entit^ed
^ 1,'n H : silk ThLe.m.l-nn.e„t is not u..proli.abk- ; lor altl.onsl. d... rear.nK«l the
" . ,s i :,t.,c,lud wlih .n.,eh trouble, an'd re.p.ircs K[-' -"-" ' 3- -J <;:3;
Pioa is se..erally entrus.ed to the wo.ne.,, .. does ,.ot take the .nen l.o.n ti.e.r U,Uo..r
i^^
;,r^C, rnxr.'r, tk^nis'. in sv;i i^r.r.i. a v n,
Willi ill thciulvanu.-cs, Iu.ucac, cU.u .fUr.,tnth. fuH.iiy <.r the v,m1, nnd ihr variety ol
uVld . ^r F^^ ^-annot, uiihout ihv tmnost u.HV u!.^ and constant cxcr-
lion! manluun their lanuli.., and ar. always reduced to tl)e ^ru^.M custress, whenever
il»c season is unfas our iblr to aaricultnre. ,, , , i- i
'I'o tluVe eanses ol ,unurv anu.u, ilu- Pn.er classes, n.ay be added the natural uub-
Icee of the peoH^'- and dun- tetRknrN to superstition, uh.ch take, them Irom dieir la
iHun-. Upon the uhuK. I have not, in the eour.e oC my travels, seen ^»>v f ^»^'"2'.
cxeinl in l»oK.nd, so eon.lnrlUss as ilu' interior inhal>itan;s ot this valley. Ihey en p>
ndeul..ne mat advantage ov.r the Poles, in not bein.' ihe absoh.ie property ol the
i;;;;d;:u;::.'nd transler.^K. Hke ea,t!e. They are therelore at hberty to uc ^vhc^
they rhoose, to quit their eounlr) , and seek a better condu.on m odier regions , a rcliel
tn which distri.ss olten eoni[)els them to have recoup e.
CImvennn, Auj^ust 15.
I quitted Soncirio xesierdas aikrnoon, and went up to the valley ol' Malenco , yield
iuL^ vines, elKsnut.t'rees, ry'e, oals, and l>astunil;e. As I aseended, the sides c ih
mountains were clothed with bireh and tirs ; and the.r sum.n.ts produced no hu-i; ..-'
a scantv lurba^a. The inhabitants oi d.is valley appear lu Ji uer, belter ^l^^l^^^-'"^
more industrious, than the other peasants of the Wilt.hne. In conseciuenee ol hcii
distanee Iro.n th. seat ot ;.<nernnu nt, they are less exposed to the n»pcious.K s ol he
Orison -oNeinors, and lor the most part p<^ssess a small portion ot land. 1 he yaiey
5s narrow, and watered by a torrent, wlach lorms a eontmucd cataract ; the roacl is a
iaintpadi, bv the side of a preeipi( e, and carried over hui^c iragments ol rocks. 1
passed ihe niLdu in a solitary hut a', the bottom of the Muret ; the next niornmg mount-
•via rutraed ascent in the channel oi' a small stream, oOservcd "othmjr but bare rocks,
without the least appearance of vegetation, came lo the lop of the INIuret, and traversed
a larue mass of snow and ice. „ r i . :.,
In these Alpine situations the traveller sees wiUiin the space ol a lew hours, nature m-
all her shapes -, in the Valtcline rieh and fertile ; lure barren and stupendous. 1 hese
regions are so dreary and desolate, that were it not for an occasiona travel er, the tiigius
of a few strange birds, the goats browsing on the rugged Alps, and the- ^>iq>''\^[J'^^ ^;^>°
lend them, nature would appear (luite inanimate. In these elevated spots, while 1 vvas
IM.iccd above tin: storm's < la'ccr,"
I noticed the pleasing effect produced by the vapours and mists floating in mid air be
ncalh me ; circumstances finely felt and described by the audior ol the Minstrel :
"Ami ofi Uic crugKy clitt he lov'd lu rliinl),
When all in ini^t Uir world below w:.s lost :
Whiii drtudl'iil pU-usurt- tlu re to btaiid sedjlime,
Like sbipwrtirk'd iiuuiuer oa (U .^art eoa;U,
And view ii»e tuoiiuous sea oi' vapoui, tost
In billows lentrlbcnini- to the hoiivji. loiiiid,
No\N scoop'd ill LoiHi, uilli Hujuiuaii.s now cnii-osbM 1'
from the lop of the Muret 1 descended about three hours a craggy, desolate, and
aninhabiud country, andnolieed die gradual inerease of vegetation as 1 approached the
road kiidine lo Cinavenna, a little abov. Casa/za. This passage over the -Me rei, which
serves lor di- ina. spoliation of wine auil^ other merchandise frem ttic \ lilteuiic to the
Orisons is only open about live months in the year.
am; in ii<r.
{.oiN'-ir. ',• OK nir. '%nrGONt..
\Kl ,
:\ricty ol
lU cxcr-
'hcncvcr
i;il indo-
their la
:asai»try,
cy enjoy
ty ot the
c where
; a relict
ii(ust 15
3; yieltV
es c*" \.\v
tliiiit; '"•■..''"
ihtd, and
: ol" their
ess of the
Mic \ alley
road is a
roeks. I
ig mount-
are rocks,
traversed
, nature in.
s. These
ihe Hights
herds who
hile 1 was
nid air b^
cl:
solate, and
nii.clud the
I'lei, which
(.iiiie to the
LETTEK LXXIX.
r/,}ave„ua.,..runri, of St. Giacomo..Mapd of St. au^l.dmo.
Chlnvcnna, Scht. IH.
fa
of
mv arrival irom the Valteune, 1 ^ ;/^.;; ;;"';; V;:j„i, ^f „,,. right hand, theeHects
fat'iKue of journey ; jt ended n. a ^^ ^J^^^J-^^;^^^^^^ ^t theN.ottom of the Mu-
of a rheumatism, which probaljly ''^''''[^'"^^^"^X .ubft and suffered much from the
ret: -t being able to i^ocai^j k^, J ^^^^^ 'f III!:;;;"' imprudently walked the
ricrcmg nordi wind, ulmh '^^V''.""'^/''.^'!^ ^,.t f^, the space of seven hours, from
next morning, u;ithovit nUern..s.an "[,'^«>^f^-^, J, ^^^^ brought on a rheumatic
"r: "'"■(■'Viu.' Mnret to Hondo; so that the cold and fatigue brought on a rheumatic
frequently !:-'g^;^^f ,n, 'oth ul^et'i^mi^L, by a On.on •governor, who i,
c^ScLmL:;;, •mc.in a L in.anccais ev'en Ic.s li-nited in hi. power than .he judges
"''ThcISiuourt of justiee is formed by ri,c commissary, and the assessor who is
The enmina couri , J 4„didates nominaled by the eoun:;. H«.
of aW.,gre sort, and only ^' --'' ;i.;-;;«>^ ]^;:^ „r „c ,n oZ licaln between
(V.„a„y,ort,,n.,shl.„.;d,a,.,d|eK,^.s,^
UteXle';";:;;'',;!:: r^Jolhng L; .n L ^■altelit,e.^,re farmed for 17,000 .lor.ns. n,
about 126U1. per annum.
Sec Ltucr fyj
VOL V,
953
rvi:;E'^ TUAVLL3 IN 3\V 11 .ik. 11 1. A N Jt,
The principal object of curiosity in the environs is the fortress )n ruins, sraua upon
the sunnnil of a nk, which ovJrlo.ks the toun, once celebraiMl tur >ts almos- .m-
nrernablc stren<nh. The only road which leads up to it is sttcp and cra^p- ; the
H; oecupv a hr^e space ot Krcn.nd, and are now covered wnh vmks. The strongest
mrt .,f thc'iortressNval constructed upon an insul:.- d ,ocU .uu, as some persons con-
ccture, Wnm the contiLMions mountain, l.y a violuu eonvul .ion ol nao.re. It r. on all
sides absolutely pupeudieular, and the only eomn.un.e.t.on widi the castle wai by a
drau - Irid^e thrown \r. o.s the inter^enn,|; chasm. O.urs * .nppo-' that the .epura-
i .V tlV^ rock was the work of art. and anirm that i. w.s exc.vatcd m 1.M3 by ordc.
ol tnlc'U.o Visconti. The kngih is . l,ove two hundred .nd td'^ leet, the height
alK.Mt two hundred, and the great, .t (h.tanoe W'^u th. .dju.nmK mck about twenty.
This fortui.a.ion, thouuh always d.cnad in.pn gn..ble, w s tak. n ai ddkrent periods,
.omaimes by assault, but uv ' MUMUly by i.uainc or stratagem ; it was linally de
inoli-.lud bv Uic Cirisoiis thcniH. „ . , , p • i
Close to'Chiavcuna is a rock o. hestos, a kind of mineral su!)stance, of a grayish
silver colour, which can be drawn inio longiuidina.l f.b.es a. tiny as tnrcad and was
niannfaetund bv the ancients into a species of elodi rcst.nbi.ng l.nen : U is h-cqueuly
; untioned by IMi.n , and being nuKstructible by fire, was pnncipall> u.ed I'- shmuds
to preserve the ashes of the ckad bodies separate Iro.n those ot the w.jod. I 'h-;''" o
Nveavin:' asbestos into linen is not lost ; but, as it is very troubksonu and expensne, and
as the Ai.lom of burniuL^ bodies, uhich gave it a value, is no long, r muse, the manu-
lUcture is discontinued/ Besides the rock of abestos ne.ir Chiavenna, ^-vend mhe
mouiuaius vkkhhesmne substance; the best sort islound mthe mountams that bordt.
the valley of Maknco, of which 1 have seen many inie si>ecimens.
Quitting Chiavenna I entered the valky of St. Cl.acomo, ^^lnch is narrow, and ua-
teral l)y the torre.U Lira. It is part of the county oi Clu ..venna, contains about ten
nri.he; is under the jurisdicioi. of the commi-,sarv, and posse-sses -'veral important
r .'es I preserve the inhabitants from the oppressiem which their neighbours en-
dure "All caules are tried in the ^a^K y. The criminal statutes are those' ol Chiavenna,
widi this difference only, that, instead oi' the assessor, the va ley chooses lour persons,
vlo ml always present at dK examination; and wiUiout whose concurrence orturc
ca mo be i.^Hicted, nor sentence pass. d. The valkv has its own code ol civil juris
pi'u.knce, and couitsi.Kk pendent of tlie commissary, (rom die decision ol which an up-
^'''IMirLlVi'pan e)f the valley pr.Kkiccs vines and corn; the upper, rye barley, and
pasure, mixed\vith large groves oilir and pine On n.y left 1 passed ^h- u.rch of
St (iu'dielmo, supposed to have been erected in honour oi W i ham king ot bie.lj, the
last so'vereign of the male branch of die Nonnan line, which commenced m count
Roger, wh? conciuered Sicily from the Saracens in the latter end ol the eleventh
'""r"!^; was twelfth son of Tancred de Haute ville, a Nornian baron, anei brother of
the cdebrated Robert (iuiscard, the bravest of those brave Norman adventurers vvho
sa lied from their native eennury, formed a flourishing but temporary establishment ,n
; e southern parts oi iialy, ancl birnishcd by their exploits ample 'tiatcrials or h.sto.
and ronumcel The s.mi of count Roger, who inherited the n uue and spirit ol 1 is la-
ther, erected Sicily into a kingdom: and, at the extinction oi the mak line ol Robeit
' We nu.y .). rluq.. recoi.eile'. these Uvo opinions, by u'\..itunK tlua the- opening 'vvus o.i;pn.lIv'
.Kc;isioncel hv a uv\^u\ (.onvulsion ut nature, but ailcrsvurels tnla.i-a'el by urt.
WD IN nil
(•ofs iR". ''>y 1 "^- t'fi'^"^-"
l).>i'
Atn\ upon
Imus'. im-
strongest
•sons coii-
h y, on all
wtii by u
lie .ivpura-
, by ordci
the height
jt twenty.
U periods,
linally de
a grayish
1, and was
lVc(luently
)r shrouds,
The art ol
nsivc, and
thi manu-
veral other
that border
V, and wa-
I about ten
I important
!;hbours en-
Cliiavtnna,
lur pc rsons,
nee torture
ei\ il juris-
hich an ap-
burley, and
e ( hureh of
[■ Sii il}, the
d in count
.he eleventh
; l)rother of
jtururs who
blishnient in
s for history
rit of his ia-
le of Robert
Sir.lv, ardni.ned over d..s.tun-orusundH^
.omprelund the pn sent k.n.dom ' '^ ','";''" '^ ,,;.;, ,i,, \\.\, and bv hi:, jrn.ulsoti
<.. Jvrlv f.iK-d by his son W .Ihaiu h. nst, -"" ' ' (),, ^,,^ ,|, ,,.„, „i' William
William th S.rond, di.ln.,u.s k .1 In; .he ■'-'; ',^^:,,^:, .,:u,,!mr <>f Roger, a.ul
,H C.,od .a. .ut issue ma ^'-^^j;' ;;;i^;,: ^^'^ ,^ ."d/ill.giunut. ^ of d.e
wife of the emperor Ihnry tin ^; ■;''-:,^:^ , ^j,;, „„iv surviving son, was erowmd
firM king. Taucn d (l> mg m 1 1 ... ^^ ' ;'"' '^l^, .^,,- ,,i,o cl.in. d the Two SuMhes
while an inlant. IVing duhroned by llrt.rN ^''^ /^ .. ^( ^ ^^^,,^,. siI>ilK,, in the fnrire.^
in right of his wile Constant.a, he u as tnuMr,.) u d '^' - - ^ ,,, , . , ^j ,„^ ,„,ers that
of l-!^us, near Coin. Sonu aj.th.rs ^^^^\^^^^X^\^ aied in prison, others thathe
he was mutilated bj order ol Ihn v ^ ' ^^ / aeeompanial her to Franee, but.
wasreleas-d t.vgether w.th his molhe. S.b la I .at ^^ ^^^. j^.,^ ^^ ^, ,„
disgrsted with the world, rcinrd to dns ^1 ; 1 ' ' , * ^j '^^^,,Xs dead,. Sueh co...
hermit, with great reputation ol -^•'''>';;;;^\ "^ ;';7 ^' d ^ ages. Muratori, who.
tradietory aeeotuUs oeeur Irc.puntly n. /»' .'^'^^^ ,;.';,,. ^,Ssi eapablc of solving
tVom his knowledge odieaneunt ---'^^ ^^ ' ^\ ;? ,^ \,H:lined to believe, that W.l
diis diffieulty, leaves the ciuest.on uikU c ^;»; ' ^'^ \^^; ,,,,, ,,,nnit. , ,
ham was released from Ins eapt.vuv, -^ , ^^ ;^ ^ j ,,,,i,u is very ccm^pHcated and
1 shall subjom a gc nealc^gieal tabk^ ot the ^''''''f '
obscure, andcrroneously represented »>>■'"''">.,,;•''';, ,,, ^he pleasant plain of Campa
lallings of snow, mentioned .n a iornjer '^^, '' "^^ X^L'';,,, j,,, cf nature : i"
rrcmdy common; tin y are justly and uai ml) dcstubLai)) i
.\rviii!' tt.csc hillv v.j^ion-, 'vl'.iiT .lujrv'M
Olt. nishiiu; swddvi. Ihmu xW U'M^d rliil-.
M.,uiit..ins'..l- siioNS 111. ir K.ah'n":;- t.noi ^ roll.
A \\ip;rv v.iist.,'. imliiv ( onuiK.ui.u .lU ;
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li:tti:ii lxx\
Spiuifev ... Vho (iraif I .i-iigiic....RlicintV(tld....rh! M.ifi.... '/'//».". \'f /ui/,!, A'//..t.
FROM !b()l;i the :",Cfnt is steep aticl niL^^frecl to tlir top of mount Splu^nn, siiul ll;'
torrent Lira roiirs from prceipiee to precipice in stupeiuloiis eiit.ir.ici-^. Ili- roul i-
heuii ill the solid rock, in many places it has the app' ur-.inH oisi»:ps, in other^ is perl.
rated tlirough the mountain; m pursuint; my way over this drearv tract. 1 was Irecjueiii!)
reminded of the road down the Gemnii.' To'ward ilu- summit of ihi SphijA'-n is an
oval plain, about two miks Iomjt and one broad, encircl-d willi craj^i^^y points ; it prochice t
no trees, but yields rii;h [ki ,UiraL!;e ; near the summit are rude blocks olu whitisli kiudo!
marble.
I baited my horses at a small inn \vhieli stand, at the extren\it\ of th( o\al plnii, rini
is the onl) house between tlie valley of St. (iiaeonvj and Sphi;j,vu. Ikfore iIk* door 1
observed at least a hundred horses laden with merchandise ; not less than thrcL lumdiv.^
are said to pass daily in this season of the year.
Gently ascend int;' from this oval plain I observed the source of the Lira, whi< 1) fall--
into the lake of Chiavenua, and soon afterwards cro-^sul the hii^diest ridt^e, on tlv. jtluf
side of which the torrents llow towards thi Rhine. Tiu- country is wilil, and sc.rcel;.
produces a single tree ; as 1 descended firs began to make their appearance, at first thinl;
scattered over the rocks, and gradually thickening into large loresls. This passage ovc
mount Splugen is principally used for the transport f)f merchandise to and from Coire ,
it is kept open even in winter, though not without great dilliculty ; in that season th'.
merchandise is chiefly transported on sledges, of which forty or fd'ty pass in a day.
The territory of the Gray League t>ccupies all the eastern tract of this mountainous
country, and is by far the must considerable, in extent as well as population, of the three
Grison leagues. The ( tymology of the word Grigia or Ciray, which gives its name to
this league and the whole country, is extremely uncertain. Some authors have conjee
tured, that die people of this district were the original inhabitants of the country, and
were called Gray, to distinguish them from the more modern iiihalntanis, gray hairs, at;
emblem of anti(iuity. Oihers, on the contrary, dating this apiiellation from more ino
dern times, assert that the first authors of the revolution which, in \\2\, guve liberty to
the communities indie Gray League, were dressed in the coarse gray cloth of the conn
try ; and, in commemoration of this great c \eiu, the kague was called CVray. This ap
pellation, however, is of very high anti(juity, and existed long belore the revolution.
Tacitus calls the inhabitants of this country Riuetos Griseos, id est e inos , and Ainmi
anus Marcellinus styles the district ab(ml Coire, C.inos Campos, or the (iray Fields.
Hence it appears how very fruitless must l)e any invesligatioa concerning die true ety
mology of this word, whiih lies hid in remote aiUKjuiiy, beyond the reaeli oi f"ir n\os*.
inquisitive researches.
Without entering too minutely into etyniological disrpiisitions, we mriy onl\ remark
in general, that the term (irisons, or Gray peoi)le, wms the general name by u hieh ali
the inhabitants of Rlielia were distinguish', d, and was not ecjulined to th it parliouLir di^
trict called the Gia) League. Tlie appropriaii(jn of the term to that particular bod)
niay be thus accounted for. When the iniubitants of this district first rose in ;uir.v
*Li!UT 33.
M
o;.L'
i 11 \ V :
IN ;iW 1 1 :;r. PI. A N i»,
Tor t lie |v,i[)M V (.1 n-siTiiii:'- l!iiii iiidi p.iidi iicc, tluy luitnnlly styled thrinsthcs tli;-
I.f.iHiir <il iln ;i< "pk' cillni Ciiivtns. or tin Clmy L^..^^,^l<• ; wltik- those of the twoothet
lll^l^li«,, who !iii' i-w.ikU loiiM.d siii.iLii .issoeiations, iilthoiii^H) i(|ii.illy known hy lh<*
luimi ot Cirivin.<, to'ji, other aiipellatiun . lo distinjruish themselves Iroiu the first con
It (li r.ic\ .
'I'll, idiiior) llo^•. (HdipiMl l)v th( ("ir.iy Iahj^uc was formi riy siilijeot to the aljhot
..| Div nils, tile e(/Miits o| Wudiitlurt;, o| S;.?;, of Masox, and the banjn of lUtzuns.
I'l A pcjik' sri ui to iiave oriv.inall) p(;^sesv.d eonsi(k Tahk' privik-fjfes, which were gra
(Ui>ll'. tii'idirmiiml, mil o.i-asionally \ iolaled by their chiefs and barons, who, bein^^
iMi«;aiV. il in perpetual hostilities w iiheaeli oilur, laid i;Teat exactions upon tlu-ir snbjects,
in oiAer to pay their troops. At knj^th, the people, impatient of oppression, and excited
by th.ixaniple ol tlk nv ij^hbonrin;.!; Swiss republics, determined to deliver ihemselvcy
li'uiu till' i;rii \ons siibjvciion iinckr which tluy laboured.
The iiieeiinii; of ihi insur^;< nts was by no means attended with any unwarrantable .
excesses, natm-.il to an enrafj^eil populace, but was conducted with the (greatest comito-
sine. 'I'he kaiUni,; iiKUshers ol the several communities ha\in!jj previously concerted
tlie plan, a sok mn ikpuMiion was dispatched to the nspeciive soverei,L;ns asscmliled at
'I'ruiis; the (kpn'.ies laid the i;rie\anns beloa the chiefs, from whom they not only
extorted rednss, but procured a confirmation of siveral obsolete piiviiejfcs, and the ad-
dition of many others. In consick ration of these concessions, the chiefs reserved to
rhems' lees certain i)rero!^atives, which some of their descendants or successors possess
at this day ; a distinction which is now peculiar to this lea!j,-ue, and renders the general
constitution in some respects nwrc uristoeratical than that of ihe two others.
These prerogatives consist in biing i)re-ient at the annual dUt of the league, and in
alternately proposing three candidates for Latidriehter, or chief of the league, from one
ulio is nominated by the deputies. The counts of Wirdei-berg being extinct, these
prerogatives are now conlined to the emi)eror of Oermany, as baron of Rvt:iuns, the abbot
(if Di'sentis, and the temporary count of Sax. No real cimni Sax now exists ; for, upon
the extinction of that family, certain communities*^ of the Uray League seized the do
inains, and continue to exercise the rights which were formerly enjoyed by the counts
..fSax. ^ ^ . .
The mode of creating a titular count is as follows: a few days before the meeting ol
the diet of the kague assembled at Truns, the communities in (luestion reciprocally
•Meet a person who represeiits the count. He is called in R omanshf Cau de Saxe, and,
although not unlreepiently a common peasant, sits at the diet upon the same bench with
the representative of the house of Austria and the abbot of Discntis, is addressed
by a title e(jnal to liis supposed dignity, nominates the Landrichter every third jear,
and, having discharged his ollice, sinks at the expiration of a few days into hisorduiary
raiik. . . ,
Another distinction peculiar to the Gray League ought not to be omitted, i^ikc the
other leagues, the particular districts possess their courts of criminal justice in the last
resort; but in all civil causes above a certain value, an appeal lies to sixteen deputies
annually assembled at Truns ; 1 only mention the fact in this place, but shall have occa-
-ion to enlarge upon it in a future letter.
Splugen, situated ujjon the rise of an hill, at the bottom of a rugged chain of Alps,
islhe principal place in the valley of Uiieiiiwakl, which forms a high jurisdiction of tlK
• Thisc coninu.Miticstiri- Liiik!;iu tz iiml V.ils, Hants cuul drub, l-'iims andCastris
t L.itci-.Jly hinul ol S.in. C;iu i, '-unMusud to be a conuplioa irom caput-
AND IN I II r fOl'NItlV 0) lit I Mdf.ON,.
i;4.<
Orav LraL'uc. 'I'lir Hh(:m>v..lcl is v. .mII- il IVoiu tlu- llwul-r Hlunr, «lm- . tJ.-, n^
ri>,c'up()i. the VoKdbUr^r, at llic ilist-iiirc nl tuchf mil. s. .iiul nms t uoiiKl» tI.l^^ ..! v
It u;is inv iiiunlicn to visit this MHircc , but my latu iiwh^i.ositioii u.ll i.ut p. iinil dk' i'
nitsciutf) i.iLc llitif^'uiiij; joiifiKN-. in ihi m. iuniint..in'Mi-. rLj;i«ms.
Thr ihhaljilmits of the Khcii.ualcl speak (urmaii, .llhoiii^h thi'y an . ntirdv sm
roun.lul l.y tKoplc uh.. use a ditK rent linnMau;-.. T'-uanK ihr sn-.th. I.>yun.l th>
luounlain. ..r SpUiKcH au<l St. Ikmanliu, ii. ilie vMil.s nl St. (.M-omu ;m.| Maso::.
Italian is the- cumnum i.,ii,mic; loua.ds ihc north and cast, in ihi- vailu ■> «)l S' luiu^.
of St. IVtcr, andolLu;j;ra'tz, Uumansh ii, spoku.. Thi, i. mark il.ly nnu'u.taua- in-
kd manv anthers to a)U|<.xiurc; that the- |aoplc of tliis and oih. r (h^iri.is (.1 ilu 1 .nsuii-.
uhoiilk'dcrman. arc d^scc.ukd h.MU \Ul Lr|umiM, supposul u- Iu ' ^ ; h'^' "''H'"'. "'"^
cousidcrul as the ori>,'inal inhahitauls ul lins cmntry, Uihv^- '.h < st .lilishnanl ol 111.-
Hhttians. 13ut thisconjcciuic is not louiukd on lacts, lor, alih.uKn du' mlMlMt.mi. oi
this district an imimdiatJv cncirckd bv [Hoplc uho talk Italian and Hon. lash ; jtl ih-
(kruMii laii^-u.i^a' is spokrn at Avers, Cipiiia, Tusis, .,iid l ur.^lcnuu, s\hul> ...c oni\
at a^m ill di«,tanre I'rom the HJKinwald. _ • i
1 (uiiucd, on tlu; other side ol Mount Spln-rn. the Italian dimait and pn.il... u in-. .
the air or iliis valkvissopirrcin-astojustilN die truth of tin provcib, "Nnie iHwi.th-
ninlvr and tluvc monUis cold." Tw.. hiuh n.ads mo I at SphiKeii o,k horn Ll.i.i
vuuia, uhkh 1 traversed veslerdav, the other Lads over the Hunard into Ik ll.n;:one.
From Splu^ui lo Aukrlhe road continues bv th< side<.fllu Ily.ider Uhnu.duouKha
mountanious rcKi^n, which |)iesents at evu\ :,li p the most awlul ma^inticene*: oi
The inh ibitants of Snlk rs, the Utst vilhjJii' of the Khrinwakl talk (iernvan ; and at a
small distance I entered the valley of Srliams. w Iv re the peasants ;,pv k H.Mnansh. I
made M.vself tokrablv understood bv a kuid ol jaiKon, eomposid ol (.irman, Italian.
and Koii'iahsh. I took out my vocabulary of the KiiKadina lanj;n,.Kv. -"iil enmpared
the dilkrent modes of ixpression and proiuiiK iation. Tlu iidiibilaiU:. call tlu u- Ian
mi iiv Uomansh ; but il dilkis w idelv liom the Houiansh spoken in the valley ol Snr
set, and still mo.e fioin th it of the kn.^.Kliuas. 'I'lu Bible and otlur b:oks nv d luthis
vallev are hi the same diakct a^ tl'ose vshkh arc n ad in tlu otlit r parts ol the < -rax
League, and the lan<rua!j,v is similar, niih a small vari* ty in the pror.niKiatwai.
'ill'.' valley (jf Scliains, a cwinmnnity of tin <'ia\ kea!;iie, contains _ei:-!iM>r itn'; fi-
considerable" burghs or \ illa.gvs. simaiid it small disianc s upon i ach side of tlu- Klnnv ,
and is much lower and more htiilfnl than the Uheinwald. 1 cr( ssed ihe lllime at
Zillis, leaving on mv lef: h aid Dotiat, where the colketive body of people meet an-
mially to choose their magisliaii s, and legulate al! civil and political atlairs. Soon
altervvnrdh 1 came into ihe"\ la Mala, so called from the >,tii)i)osed ditlicultKs and dan
l^crsof the passage. Such dreadful {Uscripiious have bem i;i\ui by diik'ient tnivtilcrs,
that I expected to fmd it the worst toad which 1 had iiithi no travilkd. lint I was
agreeably decei\ed, for il was not more incoiitiufuiioiis thm ih. way troiu S|-higen to
Anders; nor did i once think it nctress ny e\eii to ili.moiuit lioia my horse, except
when 1 stojjpt'd to take a nearer view of any piall. nlar scene; the road even admit,
carriages. No reason occurs to me, win thi.^ i)articnlar w ay sliould be distingmslud by
the appellation of \iu Mala, mil ss it alludes to Ibrmer tiims, and mock rn writers lu\e
adopted them as the mere > 'hos (.f aiicknt travcllei,,. IVrhaps t!ie neccliiir glo-m "t
the valky, through which the road pisses, may have htlpev! to eotu. v tlu-. !(!e ,^ ( »
terror to persons u'jt accustomed to Alpice ri;j;ons.
!*.ii .;o;<r"5 inAvn,-. in sv. i rzEKLANn,
TIk \ i;i Miila niir. thr«)iif;Ii a dark and solitaiy valKy, ovirspriad in many parts witli
tliK k Ion St!., uliuli .iiliiiit only a kind ol twili^lil glooin, and so t\(ii.din(j;ly narrow,
Milt tlu stitp rorks whii l» t.ncioM it lian>; ovir, and stem almost to intct tou'ard.H thru
MiiiMuits. 'I'ht Uliini loams at lh<: bottom, sonu liims not visihli-, and iomttimcf.
li/mtly ^^linimrrini:; ihrongli
— (lurltHf)tm jmuii, di.itoVr tin- ntcks rrclinM.
Vi'.wv W\);U, uikI nivirniui' ti) tlu liollow wind.
•ofK.
Alxaii thrti miks from the tommcnct rnrnt of the Via Mala, is a stom- bridge of u
sin|;le aith, tlintuu across a j,adl ; a sublime scene, which I stopped to admire, ami
uliieli I l( It with ri}.;ret. 'Hie Rhine falls in a Ixautilul cascade, rolls in a narrow
<liann(l it the dvpih Of abovt four hundnd fert, furiously dashes under the bridge,
< xpands ilsdf iiilo a wide basin, and then is lost under a rock, through which it has
lor(td a passage. The injpending mountains, partly bare and partly embrowned with
lirs, east an awful gloom (jver thi gulf bent alh.
I In re was gri atly sii uck w ith one circumstance, u hich 1 had observed in several other
valliis of Switzerland, but never in such perfection as in this |)lace. The Rhine,
which is at present about lour hundred fiet below the bridge, seems to have once flowed
as high, or e\en higher than the present bridge, has, in the lapse of ages, gradually worn
away the rock, and excavated the diep channel in which it now runs.
Having passed the bridge, I went through a subterraneous opening a few paces
Ml length, which had been cut in tlie overhanging rock, and a little further crossed a
second bridge similar to the first.
Soon afterwards I fiuitted the Rhine, and began ascending. This part of the country
IS entirely uninhabited, and 1 did not meet with a single house until I reached Ron-
< alia, a village in the community of Tusis, upon the lop of a steep mountain. From
ihence I deseinded to Tusis, situated near the torrent Nolla, at the beginning of the
valley of Tomliasca, and said by anti(|uaries to have been built by the Tuscans, when
:hey took refuge in these parts under Rhjetus.
Tusvis is well known in the history of the Orisons for the Stuffgerieht, or court of
;ustiee, which sat in 1618, for the trial of persons accused of holding a correspondence
with Spain, and of opposing the introduction of the Protestant religion into the Val-
:eline. Amongst those who sufl'ered in this inicpiitous tribunal, the most remarkable
'.vas Nicholas Rusea, whom I mentioned in my leiier on the troubles of the Valtelinc,
the cruel circumstances of whose deadi excited the resentment of the Catholics, and
'jccasioneilan open rebellion.
Nicholas Rusea, a native of Bedano, in the bailliagc ol Locarno, was educated in the
Jesuit's college at Milan, at the expence of Cardinal Boronieo, and made so great a
progress in his studies, that, in 15SU, he was appointed principal of the church of Son-
drio, although only in the twenty-lburth year of his age. He immediately signalised
himself by his zeal' in preaching against the reformed doctrines, and was one of the dis-
putaiits who supported the Roman Catholic faith against the Protestant ministers in
two public conferences held at Tirano in 1595, and the following year. His character
has been placed in the most opposite lights by the respective liistorians of the two con-
tuuliiig parties ; by the one he is represented as a saint, and by the other as an assassin.
Hut it we examine his life w ith impartiality it will appear, that, though he was hurried
<jnby a violent spirit of lanalic zeal, yet he cannot be supposed guilty of the atrocious
.:rim*ts which his enemies have laid to liis charge. Soon after his promotion to the be-
\:ii> lu i Mi. I 111' SI in OK tuh Ml I SOS*.
'•I
.uli(;o ot Soiidrtd, .1 mi siimlc rstniulin},' urnsr Ik twirii liitn :itul iIk Protesting. \\\\u:\,
^;ni(linlly iiKTcasKl liming ihr mwK iicc <.l tin- rtlif-'ioiis dispuus, and was carrifdoii tli*.
InllowiiioccusioM to tlu- lu^ditsl dcj^nc ol iiniinn^iry.
Oik: Chiippimi.H. mid tlini- ^oudr)licrs ol' Wnii.f, uiip am sUil imdfr su^im.iom of ,-
dc.si;;n t') iiNsas-^iiuU- S«'ipi')r.ili!iuJriMiis, tlu I'lDti^taiil luinist-. r ol Si.tidri'), at tin* insti
qitionol Hiisca; A coutcsslou ol^niili ami ol Uusca's privity l>riii;,'<lr.»\vn Irmn Cliiip
'piiiiis by 111-' force of tortiin-. Thr ^ovcrn-ir of the Valu-liiu' n W trin^; ilu ,(1 air t<. flv
die t of til'- (iriMins, Rii ,f a u a>, cited Ik lore that as-.enil)ly, l)iit di eliiird to appear , » illii r.
:is liis tiuniiis pnleiid, Iroin a c fiiiseioiisiKss (Jmiilt, or, as liis friiuds alle^:'-, I'rotn a
dread of tlie(»risoiis, win) were incensed a^'ainsl liini. Ilaviii.i^ i s.aped hom iIk VuI.
tdiiu', ho waiud at IJ.daiio whik' his caii-.e uas piiMicly pl.,id((l Inlnn- in. Iv«' jiid^as
deputed l)y the Orisons, lieinjr actpiittvd, he retiirmd l<> SMiuhio, wlun hi> i.e.il in
flamed hy'his late pervrutioii, contiimed to display itsell l.y an imremlttiiij; o|)poiition
to the estuhli^hmeni of a I'lolcstant school at Sondrio : a la\onritc nieaMire ol the op
posiie party.
His eiumies, Iviflled in ilu ir first attempt, Ijionj^Iit af^mmst him a ch iiKf ol a more
public nature: they accused him of opposiu.tj the di cries of the (;ri-,ons, and ot tx-
hortini^ the ii)hal>itants »)f Mori)e^;no lu.t to bear arms at^ninst the kini; of Spain, the
protec'tor of du Catholic n ligion. In consif|uencc of iluse insinnaiinns, a tro^ip ot
sixty (Irisons arrived at Sondrio by ni^lit, and, seir.iiifr Uusci, carried him t<) 'I'usis,
where he wa:. not onlv impeached of hi^di treason in the temporary court ol justice there
assunl)lul, but was a^ain txamiiud, contrary to every principle of ecpiity, for abeiimp,
die asvisVinatiun of Calandrimis ; and as he perempKjrily denied these charges, he was
condemned to the torture ; which horrid sentence was three times inflicted in the dead
of night. The execution ni' the sMilence lailiiijj; to extort the smallest ronlessioii of miilt,
he was, on the following night, twice snbji<;ted to a repelilioii «)f the same dreadful^
process. Iking of a weak Irame, and full of iiiliiinities, he was overcome In excess of
agonv, and expired amidst the torments.*
S<)me writers have asserted that Uusca died of poison, which he had taken privioii>
to his last examination; but this supposition seems to be totally de\oid of fouiuL.iion,
and was only advanced in order to rescue thejudgis Irom the odium of having toriured
him to death. For wlun it is eoiisidered that, according to the common mode ol ap
plying torture in this ccjuntrv, he was Ave tiims drawn up by a pulkv, with his arms
tied behind, so as to occasion a disk-caion of his shoulders; that he remained in thai
<xcruciating posiiion above haU an lujur each time, and tli.il he was in an inlirin state
of body, we ha\e no occasion I* seek lor any extraordinary cause of his death.
'i'he advocates lor the I*n .test, ail pat t\ iti v'lin enile.aour 10 e\culi>ate Husca's jtidges
liom an intolerant spirit of bigoiry, bs asserting that the whole iransaclioii w,.s a ciwl
and not a religious process ; lor lheol.»gical rancour, houiver disguised under the mask
nf patrif>tism,^vas the leading motive to this pre)secuiion. Inek pendently indeed ol ail
theoretical reasoniii.j;, every 'raii(»nal ChristMii, whatever his pusuasion ma\ be, musi
recoil with hunur from eiiormiuesso iiiconsisieiil wiihihe first prineiples of humaniiv,
• I)irfk)niiiiica,(|U,T: An.^tiMi ^.l iiMl, tor Miie taint n pnni!. '.•«• < Ivvatu^ suil ; ii.i lli\it(|ih iii iii-;;ativ ,,
^Xl)i'ls iiii:>Llio>ni'k.iii Dei ac Uuiniuiini impioiaiis, .,iia^ \oi .-s iIoLh lunmiiU.ruin ipse espniiii'ljat .
i-ra i-iaiii lioii.o riThiis Mljiil/us vcx.aiis. a. pK/iiule Mi.iiinn.ii u.iuiiain i.i.iu.s . lui. S>,,uiia* (if
liiMir.fu.iesiilivelooble^iair, u< a(|U(.<iuai.i siKnmu iiab. iv (Hi.aUiiImn, et Ins at)s.|iic liiimii p-uulvrv
«-Uv..ivn • ui •;,;ii'oh-,nv.aus .isi spiiiuisdLikei'f, vu uiu bul\ <i v'Uir toruira j.iiii (•\>piruvi i\a, umiis
Wu^x.. .M iluiitilmsailuKJisam'hic lit saii.^ui.-, udpartrcl. Api-iUi Uisl. Helorni. Led. Kxi. vol. u. p .UiH.
I
,1.(1 v» tr.iitiMdiLtory t" »li int-ikn. 'c of ilal religion, uhidi ounht to he th.- rule i\i
-.'ir iii'tioi" . '
LI.T'I IK LXXXI.
/V'/A'/y of Toi)iliuH(.a....lictzuiis....Hnr}mi(iu.
Coir,', Sip. yi
I HOM I iiMs I (.ontiiiiud mv route ;»loii^' tlu* vall. y ol Tninli.isrn, by l\w side ol" th*
Khim-, N\hi' h liui' m j»:ir.ittH thi- (Ir.iv Lra^Mic fn.m thai ol' ilic llmiv of Ciod ;t mi
iiuDns tf.aiis. vill.iiris, .iiid Chtlisj lie ;l^mral)ly sc:ittirfd UironK'li tlu; v;iU in th/
(iiost r«>n):mti( siimifions. I» •^siiii'- throiii^li (' if/,is, and k iviiif^ on my Irlt the Irniilid
inoiintiiiu ol Iliir,:rn!Hr'j, calUd in Uominsh Montaj^nia, ni\d rcmarUahIc for its llrtilitv
and poptdation, I prorud 'd to Ui-tziins, and tnrnul to die castL-ol" thit riaim , which
maki-s a consi/icufini liinirc in th»' history of t hi' (l.isons. Anli'iu irifs dffivf the name
nl Hrf/nns horn l{l>a'tiiim nr Kli.Liia Im.i (Lowu Kh.ftia) and \;\\'c the lollowinj^ac
ronnt ol its ( onsinu ti«»n : In (he e.iily a^csofth, Koman history a numerous army ol
Ciatils overran Lon\luidy, whirli was then oeenpud l)y t\u' Tuscans. A .•.)iisi(lera!)le
|k)(U (if whom diivi n Irom til* ir n;itive eotmtry lollovved tlnirleuler Hlwctus, and
estai>li'-h<(! tlicinsehes m tin sr Alps. UIkimus ^ri'vc his own name to the whole re|rion,
and eonstrm:ted a fortress whieh hr called Kluuiia Ima, since corrupud into Het/.ims.
Livy relates the emij^ration of the 'I'use.ms into these parts without mentioning' the nan-
of till ir Iiader, who is callul Hli.etus hy Pimy and JiiMin ; and the lUMuher of plai
still eNistini; in these Ali)s, whieh bear a rebemljlante to that api)ellalion, seem strong Us-
timonies in support of this aceount.
Hutas(\ints ol' su(h hi,ud»:inti(piity are li.ihle to mneh (loid)t, let us descend to later
tmu s, which admit ol' no dispute. The castle was the residence ol a Ijan.n, who pos-
•,essed the ;>,djaceiit tirrilory, and was called Baron of Hetzuns. His name freipiently
occurs iu the anc.'ient history ol' this country, when the tirrilory of the Cirisou' was di-
vided into s« \umI p( tly s(jverei}j;nlies. He is also mentioned amon^Mhe chiefs, who as-
•,end)ledin 1 121 at Truns, and enlarged the priviK ires of the peo|»le, when the commu-
.lilies imiiul and formed the (iray l.eaKtie. At that time the Baron reserved to himsell
eertaiu pri rogatives, which are now posstssed hy his successors. In 1139, the male line
hcin.Lr exiinet, the Uaronv deseeiuled to a collateral branch, and in 1 170 came by purchase
inioihe poissession of the eujperor Maximil'ian the First. Ferdinand the First mortgaged
Ihebaronv for 14,000 florins to John I'lanta, in whose family it continued until the yeai
U)7i>, when it was redeemed by the emperor Leopold, and nr)W it belongs to his grand-
daui-'hier Maria Tliertsa, the i)resent etupress. The rexenues of this terriior* are vcr\
auali, amounting U) 2000 Horins, or scarcely 2001. per annmu ; but, bv the possession of
it, the houM' of Anstriaenjoys considerable iuHneiicein the p(,!iii.:al affairs ()f the Orisons.
The delegate of the empress, who is called Administrator, has a vote in^ the diel ol
Fnms, ai'id nominates t\i!y third year the Landriehur, or chief of the (Jiay League
Being desirous of suing the castle, I sent uiy compliments to the Austrian delegate,
who insiantiv made his appearance, and politely attended me. The present building
* Anovtii will, till iu\vii'ii'il""vof .(11 honrst liistoriuii, speaking' of tin- iiiitn.itiiiis kits of thia trihvi-
fMl, F...VS, " Diiini iuunt.it;ikni: Quid iM i ailioiios in itare, lioMi-s studio i oii'iiiin it .i.- lit m- com i
iiat, smiuuisiinauiisiiu-, m hoci.oii »iui i Nullus lati.i'i.umis n.ujorfii.lu.ir tiibunali 'jividum coii-
^iliiivii <iu.nii Mihiui ini)i^> Niiolai Ui.stx, iiai ioi-.m.iuis soliiuis sal) judirium oculis txsjn.aMl.
Hlsi. Uif. Kill. Uxt. \ol. ii. ]). (Ui. . .
t liuUr, ihi hlMuiiai) of illulia, suv:., tlii.t iio iT;j;io!i of raiiopc lon-mus such a minibor oi antifn'
fuStU ^ as t!.f louiitry of tin ( iiiM.n., ; liod adds, il.ut, in tin: siiiull valU y of Tomlusca. no', more than
■.. luTiaua luiU' loi.|^>;'<iiul a '[W.i't'T hroad, Vli<n; aic more than scvcnlccii.
ANU IN IHC COfNTKY Ol t 11 K CUUO.Vn.
'.)47
wiiH n.isul i)} LcopnUI the Firnt, iiptiii ttu' roiiiulaU'iii oC the (iiu.ic-nt striK^tuiv*, of wtvcli
tlic-rc iirc Hcarecl) arty r«.ii);un> ; and I mulil not discern llic blt|{l\t(.st tncch of K'vmait
\vurkn)))i)sln[).
Till ciisili' is the usimI n sidi i»«i' (■»(' ilu. Anstri.in t nvr»y to th» n pnlilic ni' {\\c ( »ri-,oris .
bnl as ihc pa sent ( n\o\ dwells in his ()\\n honsc at Hi iclunaii, is n(>u'oi'('.n|)i'(l !>v ti.c
Anstri:in d(lL^atL^ It is siiuattd nnon an iiniiu:;(;c, and inininands u lint- view ol'tl;!'
adjiicnt coniuiy ; the rich plain, wnicluxtcndsas I'.ir us lUiclunan, is honndrd nw all
bidvs l>y h>!;h utonni.iiits, .ind yiciiK, anion); oihcr productions, alnind.m' ( i<t uhtat,
the l^owcr Hhint'tloU's through it in a wide and ston) clcmml.
'Ihc delicate lindinj;, diirio^ our ronvtrhation, that I had a Itttur of rocoinmcnda-
tion frtjMi count I'iiini.in to '.hr cnvoj at Hticlunan, invitrd nic to dinri' r, :i'.d p'>litc*ly
oH'ircd to accompany inc in the alurnoon to Ucichcnau ; an invitation wJii' h I made
no scruple to accept. The compaii} at table cciMsisted of tlu' delej^ite, his wilr, and a
capuchin Iriar. The lady spoke iioihin^^ hni It'tiu.insh, so that I w.is not ahk' to eiijoj
much of [',vy Jiicourse ; I kmiUI only diink h^ r health, ami ni ikf her a short conipli
imnt, uhich I had k.iriied I)y rote, lint I In Id a loiijjj conversation, in the I'ri ii< li
tonp;uc, w itli the delegate, upfiu thi- l)aiony of H( iznns, on which suljji ct he kiiully j^avc
nie much ir.lormat'on, The Iniiony can)' ises the villagisol'Hct7,nns, lionadnt/., I'',inl)'.,
and t'eldsher^-, which fiain a hi}r|i inrisdiction in the (iray Leaf^ne, and send tuo drpu
ties tr. the m neral diu ol' thi (Iri oiis : the piople are lice; they assemliU' aninially in
the cotirt oi the casih to elect their iua}i,isi rates, and evciy male at the aji^c ol' loururn
hiis a vote. As deltfrate oi the empress oi (linnany, lie has a kind ol" territorial juris
diction over the village and distTH t «>l l{el/,nns. lie nomiii;'.tes the Landamman I'rom
thivc candidates appointid by the pe(»ple ; the empriss receives the lines ibicriminai
c;lVenccs, and pa) s the expenees j»I tlu proces*. j the prisoners are cunlincd in the castle',
but are tried by judges chosen by ilu: people-.
.Mler dinner 1 acconipanied my host through a rich and leriile plain to Keicheiiau,
and wailed upon M. linol, the Austrian envoy, who received me wiih great politeness,
.md obligingly invited mc to remain some time at Ui ichenau ; an invitation i declined
Ibrllie present, through my i^^\patienc -oi' arris ing uiCjiii', where 1 expecleel to receive
beveral ktters I'rom m\ Iriends in England, IVom ulion< 1 lu-.d not heard since my de-
parture I'rum Milan. Keicheiiau is situated upon the ce 'illnx of the two branches
uhieb !brm the Hhine. The lo\v( r branch is the siime whi.'h 1 I'ollowed during the
greater part ol its course I'rom b[)lugc n ; tlu upper branch rises lu ar the mountain u\'
St. Gothard, and Hows through die valley of Sopra Seiva. The caslellaled mansion ol'
M. Buol stiinds in a most romaniie situation i.pon a ..)m»(l emincnci backed by a per-
pendicular rock, and bnw* eu two singular bridge s con.iuucted by the nephew ofGrii-
benman. One, which is tdruwn across the lower branch, measuresj about a huneliKl
and five I'ect ; the second, bu/ll across the river below the point oi' union, I'orms a most
beautilul object. It is u \»onden bridge ol' a single an h cuvc-red like that ol' Schaii"-
liauseii, and constructed upon the sai le i)riiiei[)le, with this diir iviiee Iiovm \er, that
the load is not carried in so |)eriei:t a k'vcl; the span ol' the arch is two Iimm.Ii <\ and
twenty I'eet. x\s the banks ol' tlu Uliiiie in this s[)ol iire more elevated iIkhi ai ScIiaJi-
liau.sen, the bridge ol' Hciclienau is raised consicleial)ly higher above the siniaec of the
water;* and as it presents to the e\ e but a single curve, the general appearance is lar
more picturescjue, and the ellect more strikhig. Hut it is not so beaniit'ul a pieir o;
.uchitecturc as the bridge ol" W'eliingen, which is Clrui)eiinKin's niasn r-jii. - c i- 'j'ln
Iji^tlel .. |>. .'i
I.". .•.
91 U
coxL .s jn.WEC.:; in sv,it:',i: ulanm),
more ! {.Xiuniiic thcst' bridges, tlic more I am struck wUh the sin.plicity <A' tlie striicJiue ,;
the more I am astonislied, that the pi rsoii who first conceived the plan was a common
earptmcr, and total!) imatujuainled with the theory of imehaiiies.
Ill my v,ay lr«>m Keiehtnau to Coirt, I inquirid at Kmbs for the remains of «n old
rasrle, in v.iiich William, son of Tanert-d king of Sicily was confmed : at |;resent there
is -lOt the smallest vesiigc of such a fal)ric ; but according to the tri'Ution of the country
it Ivirmtrly stood upon a hill, whereon the church is now erected.
The valley from Keichenau to Coire is two miles broud, and j)ro(luci s corn, pasture^
and some vines, whi( h begin to make ihei." ai^pcarance near j'.mbs. The Rhine Hows
ihro'igh it with the ra|)idity ()f a torrent; sceral insulated locks arc scattered on the
hanks of the river, s )me barren, othits covered with wood, v.hK,h greatly diversify the
scenery. The chain f)f movmtains fronting the northern aspect ia overspread with gro\ es
of fir; while the opposite ridge is richly mantled with oaks, and its summit cnjwncd
with firs and pines. A little way beyond 1 entered the League of the House of G(j(l_,
and arrived at C'uirc.
LKTTKR LXXXil.
Looguc of God's nuiiii\...Town and bishopric of Coire,, ..Convent of St, Lucius.
THE whole territory, which is now comprised within the League of the House of
God, was under the dominion of the bishop of Cf »e ; until the people, oppressed by
their rulers, threw ofi' the yoke, and fc ."ii/uig a general league, compelled the bishop to
ratify tlieir iiidependence.
The ara of this important revolution is not precisely marked in the annals of this
•jountry. Some historians have even asserted, that ii happened so early as the latter end
ol the fourteenth century, and was anterior to the formation of the Gray League.
But this opinion does not seem to be grounded upon sufficient evidence : as the facts
nlledged in its support intimate little more, than that the bishop granted several privi-
leges to the inhabitants ; but by no means prove, that the communities formed them-
selves into a league at such an early period, and aflbrded the first* example of liberty
in these parts, an honour which is undoubtedly due to the Gray League. The revolution,
which finally exalted this league into its preseiu state of frtedom, pnjbably took place
between 1424, the ara of the formation of the Gray League, and in 1436, the year in
which the T'li Jurisdictions rose into independ( nee.
This league is denominated into Romansh La Ligia de hi Chiada ;f in German, Gott-
ahausbund, from which we rail it the League of the House of God : it takes this appella-
tion as well from the cathedral situated in its capital, as because it was once under the
jurisdiction of the bishop of Coire.
It is divided into eleven districts ; each of which (Coire excepted) is subdivided into
♦wo little republics, or communities, and sends twenty-two deputies to the general diet.
Formerly the burgomaster of Coire was jjeriKtual chief of the leagtie without dec-
»ion ; buc in the latter end of the last ceniury the uiher communities claimed a power
• Canipell espouses this notion, iind his aiillioriiy undoubtedly carries p;r(at weight ; but wc must
coiisidti that he grounds his opinion merely upon conjectuie, und tiuit, as a member of the Leai^ue ot
tjod's House, he was inclined to .^ive to that Lei guu the preference in point of antiquity over the Gray
i,ta^ut.
I Chiada, or as it i;; '-omcuiiic'. wiiitcn, Ct-d.-, hii^'nifics (.'.ahedra! : hence the French call it La Ligu«
Crtridc.
\su i.\ riiK tor:;
J i; y (jI 'i i; I. Ml I SON
;4i^
Tiicime,;
common
of «n old
tilt there
L" country
, pasture J
iiu" flows
jcl oil the
LTsiiy the
th t^r.n es
(TOW !>C(1
: of God,
MCIUS.
House of
rcsscd by
bishop to
lis of this
latter end
League.
I the facts
:ral piivi-
led them-
of liberty
[^volution,
ook place
le year in
lan, Gott-
is appella-
uiider the
tided into
neral diet.
Iiout eke-
1 a power
ut wc must
; League ot
cr ilic Gray
ULuLigu*
•f nominali.iL^ to this ollir.; in their turn. The allair bun,jr rtlerred lo the arbitration of
Zurie it was deeidul, that l-T the f.a.uv ih.. rwenty-two deputies should choose two
orcidatcs from the .r.cnilnr. oi the ..naie .>f Cnire. who shou d draw lots lor the
^^ ; a mode of election now in nsr. The chief thus appointed ;.s called Bunds-pre-
sdent and ..as several privileges uhieh distinguish h.m from the chiefs of the two other
LaLniJs ; he receives all the leitt rs addressed to the repub.ie ol the Orisons from foreign
powers, and is perpetual president (.1 tlie congress, because that assembly is always held
"' Cdre'is situated at the foot of the Alps, in a rich plain between two and th;ee miles
wide; a considerable breadth of valley Ibr this mountanious country. Opposite is the
chain of mountains which separate the country of the Orisons from the canton of Ola-
rus of this chain the Calendar is esteemed tlie highest point ; but ,t is far inferior lu
elevation to several of the Swiss and Sa v(jy Alps I visited m my last tour, and wants one
certain criterion of great height, perpetual snow. i. .,„,! w o.r
The town lies partly in the plain, and partly upo.i the steep side ol a rock, and is st r-
rounded with ancient brick walls, strengthened with sriuare and round towers in the
style of fortification, before the invention (^f pouder; the streets are narrow and dirty ;
several towns of Upp : J^ngadina, although not so large, make a neater and more de-
cant appearance. It eontams about diret thousand souls.
Many lables are related concerning the foundation of Coirc ; the most prooable ac-
count seems to be, that it owes its origin to the emperor Constantius, who, in the 355th
year of die Christian aera, penetrated into Rlietia, and fixed his station tor some time
near the present site of Coire. A town, as often happened on such occasions, was per-
haps constructed near the camp; and from the imperial residence it is supposed to have
derived the name Curia, its ancient appellation, since corrupted into Coira and Loire.
The remains of two or three towers, which are evidently of Roman construction, attest
its amiduitv, and serve to establish the truth of these cr)njectures concerning its origm.
Coire was formerly a city of the German empire, subject to its own counts, and came
in the ninth century 'under the dominion of the bishop. Like many other cities ol Ger-
manv, it obtained considerable privileges irom the different emperors ; and the inhabi.
tants, having gradually circumscribed the authority of the l)ishop, at length established
an independent republic. , . , • .i •.
The government of Coire is aristo-democratical ; die supreme legislative authority re ^
sides in the citizens, whose number amounts to two hundred and nmeiy-iour, dividet.
into five tribes. Kaeh citizen has a vote at the age of twenty : the snflrages aru never col-
lected in a gcnen.l us^embly ; bu* the object of deliberation is separately laid belore each
tribe, and decided b\ the majority of the five tribes.
The executive power is emrusted to the council of seventy, composed of lourteen
members annually elected from each tribe. This sovereign council is divided mto seve-
ral lesser departments, of Nvhich the principal is the senate, or council ot filteen, who
haye the chief direction of uflT.irs, either solely or conjoituly with other members ol
the sovereign council. The chieis ol Coire are two burgomasters taken from the mem-
bers ol th? senate, who, alihough liable to be removed, invariably continue m othce
for liie They enjoy the supreme dignity by rotation, each lor the space ot a year ;
durin- \v hlcn i. rm tlie acting chief, under the title of reigning burgomaster, presides
in ihA^uA councils. The criminal tribvmal is composed ol the senate and htteen other
members of the sovereign council. The prisoners are examined and the process draw-ii
npbva secret council, formed of the seven oldest members of the senate, ot whom the
950
C0:^E"3 TRAVtI.S IN ? W I 1 Z E K L A N f),
viiajority nmst concur, to order the infliction ol" torture. Alter conviction the process is
laid hciorr the criminal tribunal, which ultimately passes sente-nce, and all ofieiic s ex-
cepting great crimes, are cotnmonly punished by fines.
My curiosity led mc this morning to the apartment in which the general diet of the
Orisons is held every three years ; allhougli it contained no object worthy of description,
yet it did not fail to' strike iny attention, as being the place where the parliament oi a
free nation is assembled.
C(/ire sends two deputies to Uiis diet, wiio arc generally die two burgomasters ; but
if one of these should be the chief of tlte league, the other deputy is chosen by rota-
tion in the five trilies, .vith this condition, that he must be a member of the council of
lMo"m tl\e apartment in which the diet is held I went to die town-hall, to seethe ff-rm
of administering the oath to the new Bunds-president. In genera! the ceremony takes
jilace just before the meeting of the diet, in die presence of the deputies of the League of
God's house ; but as the person to whom the office now devolves was not present, it
was necessarily postponed. All the parties being assembled, M. Tschanier, the last
president, w ith the public -lotary, stood at the upper end of the room ; his successor at
the lower end, with the Bunds-'weiber, or secretary, dressed in a cloak half black :.ud
half white, the livery of the league. M. Tscharner addressed to his sticccssor a short
speech in German, acquainting'hini that he was appointed by the deputies of the league,
Bunds-president for the ensuing year, giving him joy of his promotion, and congratu-
lating the League upon the nomination of a person so well calculated by his integrity and
abilities to fulfil the duties of the office. At the conclusion of this speech, the public
notary reads the oaths lor the president, for himself, and the secretary. M. Tscharner
then told them to hold up three fingers of iheir right hand, and to repeat their several
oaths ; which ceremony being conchided, the new president declared that he was highly
flattered with the honour conferred upon him, and would strive, as far as his abilities
would permit, lO promote the welfare of the League. Then the former president bow-
ing, the new chief walked first out of tlic room ; and thus ended the ceremony.
'it is remarkable, that although the aristocratical party directs the nomination of the
magistrates, president, and dei)utics, yet die appointment to the governments of the
subject provinces is left wholly to chalice. When the turn belongs to Coire, the five
tribes meet separately, and a candidate is appointed by lot from each tribe. These five
persons then draw lots for the office, and the successful candidate may sell the turn ;
with this restriction, that the preference of purchasing shall be given first to a member of
the same tribe, secondly to any citizen of Coire, thirdly to an inhabitant of the League
of God's House. It frequently happens, that the five candidntes agree to divide the pro-
fits of the sale.
Upon the highest part of the town stands the bishop's palace, the cathedral, and the
houses belonging to the chapter.
The bishopric of Coire was probably erected soon after the first establishment of
Christianity in these parts, under Constaiuine, or his son. The diocese once extended
over the w'hole Roman province of Rhetia, which comprehended the present country
of the Grisons, the Vakeline, Chiavemia, and Bormio, together with the eastern dis-
trict of Switzerland as far as the lake oi' Constance, and part of Tyrol ; the bishop's
territorial possessions were also considerable, and his revenues by no means inadequate
to his power and aiguitv. It would be uninteresting to trace th,e diminution of his au-
thority, and the gradual annihilation of his jurisdiction over the town of Coire, and the
AN
IN
lilC i ol SI RV Ol nil. GHJSON...
i'ri i
mMmmmSm
""tIk bishop is prince of tlu Roman empire ; a dignity annexed to the see in 1170.
by^e;::p^ U. First, ..d isstykd ^^^^ ^^'^^^^f^^^"^;^^ ,,,,
His annual revenues, vhieh an.ount to about 2,0001. ^'"^^ .^^ '" ">iV^'" ^, X' cus
Coire, and in the Tyrol; he reeeives also the annual sum o .«^J. /^^^^^^^ '^^^^^^^^^^
toms ol- Chiavenna. in return for having ecded h.s f '"^.^ .\» ^J^''^: ^^^^^^^
andBormio, to the repul)lie of the three leagues.* I he "^'^^^''^'t^'^^^
■ire the riL^h of coininu" money, and an absolute jurisdiction both m cimI and crimina
2^:& ;:i;:nialKlistriel in . hieh h.s palaee .,d ^^^ ^[Xi; " '^'S ^u^S^I^
this district he cnioys nut the least power; so far from mtertenng n the attais o ic
o vn he codd not even enter it if the inhabitants choose to exclude hnn ; a ngh w uch
the"a se tu 1 764 A Catholu , to a^oid an arrest, took re uge in the cathedral ;
^ tiT hlfii'mtl, intlamed by the bishopN rdusal to cUivc. him ^^ --;^ j;^;
close to the only opening u' h leads into the episcopal dis act, )r:^\^^ '^,
avenue to the palace ^yas eloscd , this manoeuvre conquered the bishop s obstinac} . the
gate still exi.ts, and is ready to be u^al upon a similar oe. ,~ ;<,•
The bishop is cht^sen by the chapt' - Many disputes ichiung o hi. election n.n.
arisei be ee . the eanons'and the Leagu, of God's House; the latter, m virtue o a
tre, CO . raetcd in 154.1 ^yilh the bishop, prousts, tiiat cnW a native ol tlu League
cu be^^<^ o ed o tlie see. But a loreigner being elect d in 16P2, th<: e.nons have
:;;;;' di^;Sardul the rigl. asserted by the Leagu. , and iu. e ^^f;;;^^-;;^^^^^^^^
votes to aliens, although the League renu,nstrate. . every _ne el et nn i he p.cscnt
bishon is Francis Dionvsius, of the ancient lamilv -.1 Host, in the 1 > rol. |
The clcouA district is only a few hvmdred paces la eircunderence, and is surround^
ed b iS vv lis; the greuter'part of die palace is m.ulern, excepting a scpiare ower
which is supposed to have been 'constructed by the H nans ; it is of strong but clumsy
wS nanship, and in no degree entitled to notice, e .:ept as a monu ment o - >M' n >..
In the cat edral I observed no object of curiosity, unless he bones o St. L eiu .
richly ornamented after the fashion of Uonv-n Catho u: relies, ^^^^f^^^J^^^
worthy of attention. The cnapter consists of twenty-four canons, ol xv horn six are
resident ; the inhabitants of this district are all Catholics. .re.
Abol; he ,)alaee, and at the highest extremity of the town, .s die convent of St^
Lucius, which takes its name from a small chapel dedicated to that saint, who, according
" TnVl'^U Chuvlcs Uuc!olph buron of Buol of Schuvfcnslciu wus elected prince bishop of Coire
J'-J
()>:l j I It.' v!l:-j f >
>', I r •. P, K I. \ s h ,
to the Ici^ends ol the Romi^li church, was n kiiijjj in Britain in the I'Utcr «.ikI of tht
biM'Oiicl century. Havini; cmlinicccl Chrihtiiuiity, and l)cin|; iullanu (I with n ligious zeal,
he quitted his' throne, and wandering; into tlicsc parts huilt an h(Tn\ita},n.- upon the spot
whtrc tlie chapel now stands, and l)y his preachintj; and < xamiile coavirted numbers to
the gospel. He is styled the apostle of Uk: Gri'ions, and is git atly nvtrcd as a s.iint hy
the Catiiolits; while the rrotestanis ol' the towu piy hi.n not tiu- least miu ration.
Burnet, in his Travels, obs( rves : " I endeavoured to shew the good old Uishoj that the
legend ol Lucius was a fable in all the p;iMs of it, but n»ost renu.rkable in that which re-
lated to the Grisoiis ; and that we had no kings iu Britain .it th.it time, but were a pro
vince to the Romans ; that no ancient authors sjjcak of it, Bedc Ixing the fust that men
tions it; and that the pretended letter to pope LKutherius, toge'her with his answer, has
evident ch.tracters of forgery i',it. All this," he adds, "signifud nothing to the bishop,
\\ ho assured me that the} had a tiadiiion (if that in their eiiureh, and it was inserted in
their Breviiiry, which he fund} beiieved."
Well aware, that my endeav. urs to convince die monks of die Hdsity of the legend
would have ended as unsuccesslully as the reasoning <.f Burnet, I did not imitate his
example ; but without entering into the merits or demerits of the story, contented my-
self with admiring the be;iutiful prospect, wliich induced me to visit the convent. The
environs of Coire are delightful ; the plain is richly diversified with corn and pasture ;
the hills gradually sloping to the foot of the mountains are covered with vines, which
yield wine of a pleasant flavour, but not strong. Tlv points of view vary surprisingly,
from agreeable to romantic, from roiiMuiic to wild. The Rhine, which flows rapidly
through the plain, begins here to be navigable by rafts, and merchandise is transported
toward Lindau and Zuric.
LETTER LXXXIIl.
Cust/e of Haldeiistchu... Scmimirif of Literature.
I RODE this evening, in company with two gentleman of Coirc, from whom I have
received great marks of attention and politeness, to Haldenstcin, which may be called
the smallest sovereignty in Europe. We passed along the side of the hills, at the bot-
tom of the rugged rocks which had to ihe League of the Ten Jurisdictions, and en-
joyed a fine v<c\v of the rich plain, sin telling from the town of Coire as far as Embs.
The beautiful verdure of the meadows, the sloping hills clothed with vineyards, the
craggy mountains partly covered w ith vines, partly overspread with wood, and p..rtly
bare, formed altogether'a hfriking prospect. We crossed the Rhine to Haldenstein, a
small village consisting of about sixty houses, and proceeded to the house occupie:d by
the presea'i baron, Rhodolph de Salis, wlio received me with great politeness, anil kindly
indulged my curiosity, by shcving me his litt'j territory, and answering my inquiries
with great readiness and exactness. The baron, a gentleman of e isideral»le learning
and indefatigable industry, has formed a large collection of manust;ript relative to the
Grisons, from which he has drawn anq)le materials for a publicati* ii, in which he is at
present engaged. His researches are chiefly biographical i and hi^ work is intended to
illustrate the'memoirs of the i)rincipal p.rsons, uliu have rendered themselves conspi-
cuous among die Gri'.ons by their actions and abilities.*
•This work is imnoaaiud us not yd linislicd, :n Hitll'T's Sclnvcitzt-r, Bibliotlick, vol. ii. p. 364, under
theUollowiiigtitlcb; 1. Uhxliu liiuslnua, coiitcnuiiirhLstoircou lus printip.ius cveiienu-iis ilc luvic dfs
\ s n I N
riiF. coi'Ni nv 01 riir. M'.rnoN
iiidcr
The barony ol' lluldcnsuin. he said, was H^rm. rly under th. prou. u.u u. i,u: ^.^cn
incuaiv^. 7 ..|.»,t. cHuf the VLar 1 ')(')». It has Kill ai» iiKkpiJiicLiU hu\(-
the HqniMicot' the Orisons, and at hisdcadiin 15G.'>, came n.to thr iainily ol Scliu:
tnstcin ; llie male line beins,' extinct, it was divided between two linjalcsof the colhite
val brandies, one of whom married a de Sahs, and the other an 11 irtmannis. In th'.
beginninti of this eenturj- tlie descendants of de Sails purchased the oilur half, and
again reiir.ited it uiulerone person.
The wiiole l)aronv consists of a small semicircular plain, between the Rhine atul thc^
bottom of the Caleiulir, about five miles in lenf,nh, and ^carcel)- ( ne in breadth ; and
occupies also part of the mountain, wr.'ch is too steep to be inhal/ited. It coulains onl;.
two villages, Haldenstcin and Sewils, and the subjects amount to no more than betweei.
three and four hundred. The people were serfs, or vassals, until 1701, when t!ie
grandfadier of the present baron gave them several inimuniiies. ^ At present the lord
iias territorial jurisdiction, the e xchisive p--'- ilege of hunting and fishing, a claim of t\v(
days work annually from each of his subjects, and a load of dung from each peasant.
Hi." appoints the judge in the criminal court, receives the lines for oHences, from which
he pavs the expcnces of the process, and has the power of pardoning- IK nomin.ttcs
the president, and putt of the jury in civil causes, and in all cases of appe il judges in
the last resort.
'I'hc baron shewed mc several coins struck by his predecessors ; the most ancient wa>
a gold piece of 1 Gil, the year in wiiich the emperor Matthias conferred the right o*
coining money upon the baron of Haldenstcin ; a privilege which he still enjoys.
The ancient castle cf Haldenstcin, from which the barons took their title, is now ii.
ruins ; but the remains arc still visible upon the sides of the mountain. Above it is ano-
ther ruined castle called Lichtenstein, formerly inhabited by aii ancestor of prince
Lichtenstcin of Vienna, from which he is said to derive his title. The prince is so con
vinced of his descent from the ancient possessors of this castle, and so proud of theit
antiquity, that he procured a stone from these ruins, for the foundation stone of a su
perb palace which he has built at X'ienna, that it might be said to contain some mate
rials of the original castle in which his ancestors once resided.
The present castle of Haldenstcin, built in 1545, by James de Casiion, is ple;)santly
situated near the Rhine, and commands a fine view^ of the tmvn of Coire, and the ad
jaeent country.
A few years ago the castle was converted into a seminary for the education of yoiitii.
It was loiig a serious cause of compUunt, that in the whole country of the Orisons there
was no public seminary for comi)leting the education of youth, and that all who fol
lowed any of die learned j/iofessions were obliged to repair to foreign academies. M.
de Salis, of Marehlins, and some other persons of the first coi.se(]Mcnce among tin
Orisons, considering this defect a disgrace to their country, projected a plan for tiie in
stituiion of an academy; and having obtained die ratification oi thegentral diet, whicJ!
assembled at Davos 1761, carried it into immediate execution at their own expence,
vvidia zeal wiiich reflects the highest honour upon their exertions. The plan was ex-
tensive and useful, and seemed well calculated to secure success. For a short time i'
Ilonmu's ccUbrcs qui oiu puni au puis dos Orisons. 2. UhocUii Litcniria, uu Oulolo^m; dc tons Ic -
-luti'uis (Jrisoiis, dc li;ur vie, ft dc kurs ou vragcs.
The l);.fon is siin,c ilcad, and I liavc not heard tliat these works have been published
vol.. V. G I-
1
<> I
.v.ri';i itiw'i:!.- IS* sv'iTzr.RLANn,
,u jY ;»tltv..i. ,i>ii..;' upiKanmcc ; hut this !)r()spirouslK-{:;inninp:wa,>> ir-t •^ut radccl In iui>
')(.iic rui.il I onscfpu ntcs. ll^ <1< tlinv w ;is ou iu^ to tliL little cnuntcniiiirt !j;iv n to litcra
Mire u;is li.isui.ul hv (iiumvls whidi aro-" '"<"^«^" ^''^^ proli ssors, and in 177!), within
licritmr .nu,,;-- tlu Orisons is ui a vny lou chl) ; our <.f tlu iiios 1 anud nun u>
uiihnut sni'arin.t loundalion, tiuis expresses hniisdl npon this Mil-jot.* As tlH
d . •• in oran:,i.s is entirely in th. hands of the pc pic. the jjr.ater part eonsKlcr-
..' odn,^ \na their oun proliti despise . very species of pohte le;.nn,u, ;-;---
illir-Mr, How ;.nv sJari.s, or bestow any honours upon the prolesso.s; so that all
OU- onA h euhiv-ne the seic.urs .re ineiled nurely by the love of Klor) , and a d.s.n-
. vsl d -el - li this is the ease, it would be china rieal to expect the arts and saenccs
t 1 u iCh an nunu.rul soil, vlure they meet with no eneoura^jeuKnt : but even
m d tth I.staeies t.. in.pn.en.ent, there have never been wantu.g, and are st.ll to
i u u n en c.r superior souls, who have dedicated .heir tin.e to the eult.vat.ou of let-
In-s ; and who MKrit the hi^heM prai.e, lor labouring in the vuKvards w.thout herpes of
'"'The Protestants who receive a liberal education repair for the .nosl part to Ztuic or
IVisle and the Catlu.lks to Milan. I'avia, or Vienna.
K.; h ^.mntunitv has a stnall school, in which the clnldren are ^-glu to read, wn^
ind cast accounts but which is o-ily open Irom the Od. ol November to the ah oi
\ re 'iw parents w-h(. wish to give their children a better eelucanoa, aad can sup.
nn t t iK- ex, e^ce^ must cither send them to f<.rcign parts, or maintain a private tutor.
^ The c iJ a\" se.minarv at Coire (or the children oi" the burghers, and another
in^t^^tuteV n 17G3, for the etlucation of persons intended io.- the church; these esta-
blis n e ts houd poorly endowed have been i>roduciive of some literary advantages
ntv 'There is also a typographical societj- at Coire for Latm German
[nd l^'Insll and books in the Uomansh are printed n. tn-. Lower Lngadma and at
^'"^''''- LETTER LXXXIV.
Lea,rue of Ten Juris<nct}o.s...J'\Hzcr^^^^^^^ ,flhenvr...J)^os,,,.ralley of Pre
^ -^ t,irau...Jlulantz...McHjenfu'kL..Iicitlis oj FjcJJcrs.
\ QUITTED Coire vcsterday morning, in order to make an excursion into the
I eanie ol the Ten Jurisdictions : but befe,re 1 proceed in my account ol tins (.xpedt-
Jit,nri slull send yot. a short abstract e,f the History of the League, Irom the f.rst loun.
• Iition to its nerfect independency. , ' ^ a
TO I aVvie ought prl)perly to be called, and indeed is not un Irequent ly denominated
in t) CO n trv, th'e League e>f the Eleven Jurisdictions, from the .mmber ol comma-
U . e>f which it is comi)osed ; but as upon its Hrst nn.>n U w.s iormed o ten only
"he original appe 11a. ion is' still retained, although one of the junsehctions has been smce
diat period subdivided into two.
. In Rh-vn-n nostra vcTUm u<lmiu>slraU<. omnunn ;v pUbc dcpc.ule-t, cuje.s muncrus pol.or nc.n nm
^ ni <n. ;tt roinn o, is e,ux ex illis se.bs.qem.aeu-, <iaasi rcjkicr..la contcMunl; nnlkun caru.n pro-
nv5s>."™uiu/..nurhenn,ta«dcln nullum
tvi- : .nn ipsis mtcrial. nc^ bit (;ui cam ab mlaWJ vmdica. ApuMa ili^l. Keloi mat. Ul.xue. i i «ia
A.vn IN I in-. couN'iuv oi rnv. r.wiunsz.
!).V.
The tcrriiorv was form.rly u.uUr ihc doinnuou o tl ■ Il.ron of \ ''Y, "a '. ,
sucr'^'a <. his possessions; and iMrdrric, on. of his dr.rjnd m.s, dy.n>^ ,n IL-
ho^^suc, th. Lmmnnilics uniud, lornud ;.n u Vn.vc and jkin^.v. ^^H'^-; '-; ' '
a-;Sd.n.;iv.s into a l,.a,n.. Hnt ahl.ouKh In dns f -- ;' ^ ;;;;:,;'^i;' '; , .
mnnilics Mt tlitv wire: i>\ no means pcrlicily nuUpuKKul : " H,. i .>.!' h ns oi u .
S o To k , ^ur,h sliil retained ccJtain h.roni.l ri.h-s, win- h . ousM-.d n. ap,H,mr
r K n niinal indite i.. m vcr.l con.munitics, in the- pmrr .)l pnd.jnn.i.^, n.a sh.,y.
S filU in nonlinaun, the pn.u:ipal m.,i^ates lio.n ^''7 .^-f '-;,-;' 'i;,;^ ^
DrcroL'ativcs These lights, purchased l)y S.g.smnnd, ;ird duke u\ Anstru, aul e
U t^^ emperor NbKimilianthe Kirst, were cxereised >y means ol a I^ovcn.o p.
ime U ilh the concnnence of the leaKMe-. and resulent a. Cast. K. In pr:Mvs> ol ,nv
r ■ n n urero-atives were gradually anniiiiluted, either by purchase or concession .
tcommlE^c^lme free, .md thei/ineiepende.u^ was solentnly rat.hed by the en.
nerorFerdhund die Third, soon: Jut the peace ol \\estphalia.
^?\ter 1 an hour's .scent from Coirc, I entered the League of the 1 en unscUet.'..,^
ne. r \ lix p s^cd throu.di the corrnui uty of Chnrwalden, in winch the h unlets .re pret-
tUsetree about thc^ '^ale, and upon the sides of the momUan.s, a,.d n.a. e a s.nal,
d^u to the ilLgc of Kauerol, which consists r.nly of five or s.x houses, :u.d stands a,
Xl ttr'nof sonrc rugged mou.U.ins ; it is celebrated in the h.sto.y ol d.eCnso.s as
le u h re, i.) 1471. the hrsi perpetual alhance was rat.lted by the; deputies ol the
1 r^ ca^^^^ was accompanied to'the spot by one of the pr.nc.pal mhalntants, who
V. no d I ca!d with the enthusiasm I testilied at beholdn.g the b.rth place-^o then-
iberc Tie house is now in ruins, and the apartment which was remarkab c loi
c meetin.'(> U.e deputies no longer remai..s. Having, with the assistance o m>
romi^^^iVe %^a^^^^^ ^ te, I considered with respect the spot winch was once sane ,hu.
rr'a Sn of a general union, Inme.Ucd that so venerable a ,.le o( buildini,
si on d 1 e sufi-ered to fall into decav, and Kit dis.ppointn.ent, that no inscription by
p:^l!c'ltl^;^ consigned to post.ity the date ^'^ f- ^'--;!7'-;;t^";;""- o^lv^
place which had been witness u, an evc-nt the most munoralMC in the annul, ol tn.
'"iSgsatisnednn- curiosity invicwingtheserespectable.vm:;,s,Idescende^
Brientz U, the Baths of Alvcncw, placed in a most ronu.nt.c position, In he side .>!
tlK tei-reni Albula, and at the bottoln of the majestic. Alps ; the source is suli>h,nvuu..
and resembles both in smell and taste the waters ol llairowgate.
H^h"; passed th.-ough Alve.u w and Anderwisc n. I mounted a nigge^d as^vnt through
a ^^oU and pm-sl.ed a narrow path upon the side ol a rock called /^|^ --• ;^
recipice, with a torrent 11cm ing beneath. This rock is mostly bare, excp ing a ku
I ub led 1 rs, the remains <.i' a forest which was formerly destroyed by lire ; hence i s
c t e B irnt Wood, and exhibits a n.ost desolate api.earance ; at the bottom ol tins
re close toth<: torre.:t, are mi.ies of silver, . hich we.e lormerlv we.ked en e.4
the jurisdiction of Davos at the village of Cilarus, and took up my lodging in a neat ce>t.
'" • The district of Davos is a long plain, a quarter of a mile bmad, and gradually rising
into hills which terminate in i.igh mountains; ilis not unlike the valkyol Lppei l.nga-
di u. lu't 11 more fertile. Ne'r the church of St. John is a small cU.ster ol eigUl o,
l^n ho^ s, in the other part, the cottages arc thickly strcwa over th. plain, and u,...
the n ntle acclivities, as In the canton of A,)pen.el, each widi its hltlc l-.r. .to, v . i n
1)3(i
COXES Til \VET.3 IN SWITZERLAND,
|»rofliif;(s ftats, rye, Iar;^c (|ii;intitics of rich pasture, and yii'lds yearly two iropsol" hay ,
it i;> MOW thi h'jcoiul harvest, and tiie Tk Ids arc r.ovcrcd with mowers. The hordtring
inoniitaiiis ar( <ivtrspriad to their suniinits with forests of fir and larch, intermixed with
nuadows; above them tower the riig|rcd Alps. A clear murmuring; stjcam flows
throiij^h the midst of the plain, w ith a f;entlc though li\ely course ; its banks prettily or-
nanuiiicd with scaUcred (uttages, whi.;h arc remarkably neat and commodious. Some
lire built of triis piled one upon another; others have stone foundations, and the upper
part of wood ; and a lew are constructed with stone i)lastercd and white- wash(d. I
talked to the valky of Dicsma, leading to Scamp in Upper l'',ngadina, which is closed
iit some distance In a high mountain covered with snow, said to be one of the most ele-
vated in the country of the (irisons; it is called the Swart-Horn, and is part of tfic
Seal' tta Alji^, which eomnnuiicates with tlie Julian Alps, the Set, and the chain that se-
parates the V'alteline irom Upper J'.ngadina and Pregalia. Close to the inn is the town
iiouse, in uhich the deputies composing the general diet of the Clrisons assemble every
tlin e years ; it is also the place of annual nu eting for the deputies of this league,
^vlKnthey choose the Bunds Landamman, or chief, and transact any particular business;
•Ills building is plain and simple, like the people themselves.
The form of govi rnment established in this district of Havos, is like that of the
small cantons of Switzerland, entirely diMuocratical. The people must be assembled
upon all cKtraordinary occasions, such as enacting new laws, deciding upon appeals
horn die general diet, and raising money ; every male at the age of fourteen has a vote.
The whole collective body of the people, however, do not meet in order to choose their
magistrates, who arc elected from deputies sent by each district. The administration oi
alVairs resides in the great council of eighty-two, and the council of fifteen iiKluded in
ilie iornjer. The great council regulates all afl'airs relating to finance; the fifteen su-
perintend die police, and are judges in the civil and criminal courts of justice without
appeal.* In criminal cases torture cannot be inflicted without permission of the great
•ouncil. The Landamman is elected every two years and is president of both these
ouncils.
This remote corner has produced several persons eminent in literature ; and parti
. ularly the two historians of the Grisons, Gulerand Sprechcr.
John Guler was born in 1562, and died in 1G37, at a very advanced age. He was re-
.uarkable for his multifarious knowledge, and published in 1616, in the German tongue,
* An account of the three Grison Leagues, and other Uhctian people." In this work,
. nuch esteemed by the natives, the author gives a circumstantial detail of the origin of the
.'.neient Klutians, and of their emigriition from Tuscany into this country under their
leader, UhiXitus; traces their subsequent history underthe Komans, and in the dark ages, to
The beginning of the fifteenth century, when the union of the three leagues was established.
Guler has illustrated the history of ancient and modern Rhajtia by wooden engrav-
.ngs of medals, towns, battles, genealogical tables, coats of arms, and maps, which,
though rude, are curious for their antiquity. The author also meditated a second vo-
lume, on the union of the three leagues, on the topography and history of the whole
eountry, and on the transactions of his own times. For this part of the work Guler
was eminently qualified ; as well from his extensive erudition, and for having carefully
' li is rcniarkiibk , tluit tluou^liihc whole Lcafjuc of the Ten Jurisdictions there is no appeal from
•he (Ictisioii ol' the civil cuuns of justice, exceptiiii; in the community of Alvenew ; the inhabitants of
that pL'.ce bcini^ Catholic und Ptolebtunt, an appeal liey to the civil tribunal cither of Churwulden or
of Uavuh.
\srj < N Till. ^nVStl,,■ <>h iUL '.lUJONU.
Vj,
luiy ,
krinp
with
flows
lly or.
Some
upper
cl. I
loscd
[sulc-
lof tfic
I Kit SC-
town
every
digest*. (1 Cinipd's account of tlicCirisons,* as IVoin the various olTicci to wITk Ii \\i- was
raisiil Iiotli in ilu civil and niilitaiv Inu, and the rcpcatid embassies and nt^;oti..tioijH
in wliichht wiiheni[^loy».d. it is, iK^wever, uncertarnvheihir this part \\aM\<r linish-
cd { and, il linishccl, it is probably lost; lor A|)orta searched for it uiihuut success in
the librariis and ani'.uf^Mhi manuscripts of his countrymen, j-
'I'he dificieney oi this vahiable perlorman( » , however, is silpjjhed by Fortunatii.s
Sprccher, the couumporary, friend, and relation of Oulcr.
Spreeher, was born in 154H, and in 1617 K'lve to the world l*allas Hluetlca arniata
et tof,'ala ; or the military and civil history of tlu (Irisons from tlu' earliist aj^cs to i!ie ;era
in which it was published. In this work, which is a model f'.r method and perspicuity,
the author details the national histor) , in ten books. Th" first contains the emigration
of the 'I'uscans, their scttleimnl in this country, the description of tlieanei\.nl Uhetians,
and their transactions to the time of Augustus. 'I'hc s( cotid comprises the period from
the Augustan ivra to the esla!)li-.hment ol' the iinpin of tin Iraiiks. The third treats
of the tirisons under the em|)ires of the Franks and Ciermans, till 147(5. The fourth
details the wars of the Gris'Jiis ; nanuly the Swabiin war against Maximilian the First,
and the campaigns against James of Aledici, frr)m l:i2') to LVU, The fifth comprises
the wars in which the Orisons were engaged under the standards of foreign power-j.
The sixth relates the union and political state of the thixe leagues, and dieir alli«
anccs. The seventh, eighth, and ninth, separately describe the Gray League, the bi-
shopric of Coire, the League of God's House, and the League of 'I'en Jurisdictions.
The tendi concludes with an account of die Valteline, Chiavenna, and Bormio.
A second volume, which a|)peared in 1029, under the title of, Historia iMotuum el
Bellorum postreniis hisceunnisin Uhetiu excitatorum et gestoruui, relates the wars and
troubles of the Grisons from 1617 to 1629, a period of turbulence and discord.
A third volume continued the history of the Grisons from 1627 to a short time before
the author's death, w hich ha|)pened in 1647 ; but has never been published.
'I'owardsdie extremity ol the beautiful valley of Davos I came to a small lake, abon;
lour iniles in cireiimference, which is remarkably deep and clear, and abounds with < :;
cellent tront. It lies at the foot of tlie mountains, and supplies a small stream, which,
being joined by one from the valley of Flola, and by anoth r liom that of Ditsma, losm
tlie murmuring brook that waters the valley of Davos, and falls into the Albula abov(
the baths of Al\ enew ; this lake is considered by some writers as a sourci" of the IWnm
From the banks of the lake I descended to another, half a mile in cireuinferenee, tha'
lies in a wild and romantic situation, and supplies a torrent w hieh is the source of tli'
lianijuart, A little further I tra^ersed a small pleasant plain strewed w ith cottages,
w Inch com|)ose the village of Lower Lcra ; at the extremity of which die descent was
so steep and rugged, that I dismounted until I reached the vale of Pretigau. I passed
through Closter, Kublis, Jenatsch, and Schicrs, following the torrent Lanquart. The
i:ountry is delightful, and greatly diversified withal! kindsof productions, yielding dilVe-
rent species of grain, rich pastures, abundance of fruit-trees, wiUi large quantities ol
hemp and flax ; hemp is much cultivated, and seems to be carried to great perfection
the peasants manufacture from it coarse but very strong linen.
The mountains on each side arc in some parts covered with forests; and so great i:.
the abundance of wood, that the fields are cither studded or skirted w idi larch, pines,
* Sec Letter 7^.
i Sec Apona Ilij^l. Rcfor. Ecc. Rxi. Prxfut. Hallcr, hi his Sclnvcit, Bill N-j, -jM,
was prepared lor tlic press, but unfortiiiui'.ely burnt
th.it
•).;h
i..o:.L .. i)!AVi-t.- iN :,v;i i\,iKiii..\Ni>,
»»n<t IkhiIi. Til'' Inmlits aiv sr.itt. rctl tlui'irjj ilir plain, .iiul .iloit;,' ilir d. i 'iviiKs d)
iIk' iiu)ijiit;iiiH, ill a v< \\ \>h .isiuk' i»«.iiii>« i"; ll>* Ivms. s iiv nvc.ily ol' vo il, in l»- So in*
nioili 1)1' roii^UiKHio.j, and U'A l< ss < 'ji»v( nkiU ; tin road ihroufili ilii-. v.ili d..- \i\h
laiillv .ill tlu- way. I li.tw !iol lor '.miiU' tiiiu, \i>iud a nu)\v ai'.roiitl)l«'. I'cridv, ..id po
itiildiis disliK'l.
\ littU lK\uiid ('i-umIi, v\!ii;-hrKsiin;liis..m( hare rorks in a ft.rtilf plain, ilic vallry
nl I'll tij; III cuiitracts, liaviiijjj «nil\ a iiaucu j>as^ Ijitvvccn iinptndinK rock'., jnsl liroad
(iioni^li in.idiiiii flif lorn lit and die mad. *l lu' Nuddm rhan:;( IVoin the (Iriility o! die
counnv I., tin Imik niKs'. «.r dii«> spot, siill.i iinil) Ntiikin^ -I' its. W. v.a;> Mill Inrthi-r
lui'jhtiiudl'N tin nlnniii nl' till . N-iiini', which addidt»thulv)rror ol" tin.- scenery. 'Ilu
load u.iseiiii'd I <r ' a w.', in onHiiud a<>L\-nl and (K sent alonj; tin erij;;^) prc-
lipit .s, suiiutinn' .)\e,:<!id's..nMiinesup()ii a l.:vcl widi ilv lomnt. The pilii was
so ii.iriow and rii!;;j..tl, tint I ^i\e in\ liui v to tli..' ^;mM, :'.i.d, cuntinuin;,' iu> way on
lout, hoon enured liom iliis oI.m u'-i; piis^., and, as lar as I could jiid^'c liy d».' dim
h^Iit ol'iiie >!ais, caiiu iiiio a Hiie and rich eoniuiy, and went du-oii.i-h a scrie-. of vine
\ai(K to M il,.ht:; in tli' distri^'t of MiyenticUl.
' 'IIh' lIii;!! jniisdi. lion o| .\I.iu nii; hi is tlie lunst ivmarkahk in tJie whole c.oiintry ol
the tlrisons, hecaiiv die iuhahitanis an nsp',< lively sovereij^-n and stibjects. They arc
sovertij^n, b' ciiise tin y loiiu put d the Lia|,nie of the Ten Jurisdictions, send depiuics
to the ^(nir'l di' i (-1 die (Irivuis, and nominate to the i^-ovenuueiils ol' Mk snhjeei pro-
vi!Ui.s. 'I'luv an >ul)iecl hec.ui>e, like the pn)vinces. they arc ^^)verned '.y a huifl
s(.nt rinin ihe Cirisons', who is chaii^'id every two years, and in whom resides the su-
pn ni( anlh(.rit\ . This stiaHKV intermixture olprivilei^es and suhjection is derived from
tJK rollowiii'j; cuises : ■ • i
'J'he lonlship (il Ma\ eiilield was. like the whole territory ol' diis league, subject to the
r(,iintsol'ro};K^iil)iuj>h, aiid,iii M.3C),joiiKd the other communities to I'orm a lea;j;ue. In
\:-,i)'.'>, the pnn),ij;ati\es eiijovid l)y the coniit of To!;;i,i nburt^h wen.- sold, by his heirs,
lor J(M)()i> tloriiis, to the time leiii^Mii s, which conlirnud die privilege's ol'lhe inhabitants.
In l.');)7, Malanti^ and .leiiniiis, the remiinin.L? pari ol' this High .Imisdiciioii, were aluO
punhased lor l(),o()() Horins. 'J'hus, w hile the inhabitants of all the other iurisdiciions,
who came under the dominion ol' the house ol Austria, have- pnjcured their abseilutc
iiidependciKe , tlu people ol' MaNenlield and Malintz, although making part of the sov-
ereign pow( r, have' eontiiuied in die same state as at die first formation ol the league.
The' baiiiil or governor is ai-jxiinlcd by the eomnumifics of the thne leagues in
r.itation, and the inhabii.ints of this very High Jurisdiot'ion nominate the baililf, when it
is their Uirii loi)resent to tlu-oHice. • , , •
The baililf appoints the Stadvogt, (jr chief magistrate of die town, wuh this condition,
diat Ik; must be a member of the senate; upon a vacancy in the senate (jr little council,
he nominates the new senator : he arnsls and examines criminals, and has power to
make a composition ; he cannot order torture, or pass sentence, without the concurrence:
of the members <jf the crinmial inbuiuil,* and, when the\ pass sentence, can p.iidon ; he
can !.'ive a liberation, in the same njaniier as the governor of the \'alteline ;t he reexives
part of the lines leir criminal <;IU.iices, a'.d a certain pe)rtion of the great tydus; at Ma-
lant/, he appoints die chief magistrate hom three candidates presented by die people.
Hoth Mayenfuld and Malanl?. 'ha\e their civil courts; from that of the former an appeal
lies t(j the baililf.
• Tlu! ni. Milxis of iliisliibuh:il eoiiMSlofsix jiidi^e-s from ihc (Ustiicl of .M,'\. nllrM, jud six frorK
liLil ijf .M.ilaiii/.. Unci; lioiii JinuiiiS, iaid i.'.\o Irnui I'Lvstli. 1 ^^^- b<:U<i' ' ''
ANr> It IHt'.
. .K'xiiit v.; !«:r r.M-os ..
•>5!»
(Ik
.,Uo u rid, l-lai.. ..r p.s..nv al.-.u- thn . miU s n, Itl ^^^^^^ ^^., ^^^^^ ,^^ ,.^^
.,,,,,,,,,,1, .s.. U.1..1 ...... .1,, <:• m.ty '; ' « 'p,, /.^^ I'll'-U .. up-m •< li'>- vi< W. n,. lh<.
otIur'M,U of tlu- H o .., IH,|. ,-..tlv ns.,.« ... ' ;,' JJ, ^ ;,;,„k.1 I, clr...
tir,srhain...vsil,n.oniav<..luM, >llM. .Ju.^^^ - I oliv rva^
lUnuli..!;.. monks. ,Iu abbot ..1 uhul. .s a I-j;;^ , ' .^X". ' <- st oi Ik.- h.
,lu. b:ill,s. u l.irl, an- .list:..,t about tl... v n.-lr.. '' ;' ^ ,' 7,, i,,,,,^ ,,„. ,h, acq-li'...
down a stcc p and rn.,.T«l \r^^\ ^o tlu l">^'- ; ;;. . ,'! , kIv inditV n nt. a.ul th-
of the c-()nMn..v. l-'UKrly the ^>;';"»''.;;^',^ ;;,,;,;,„,,; if „„t will, dm.^rr.
d.sa.U n.to tlu bull., uaH atn nd^l ;;^ ' > ^'^ '^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
AlK.irs arc- now K.v.,ly . lKm!^al . the ^^'•; ";j '^„ V, . lull . . hauK". in a n...t r.
I;:;:; •: ■;;!^l^,.';;;; thi :i;;;- iv: :'-;^'': ^^^^^^ ^^" ' ^^^ '- •^"-•' ^^'-^ ^'^ ""^
bridge-, a.ul c..t.ral a ch;.s.u o.' ^l^rV'^^'Ti^ ^11^^ '^'-''' ^"^» '^''"^
the torruu has tbr.-r.l its way. 1 he chasn. .s »''>" ;\' '/.^ > ,„i ..vcrsj-nad with
two to thmhund.rd Uahi^M,. ^"'^"'"V . , -h 'oust is ou.lc- c: osul ulth
cnnnmms masses ol '"'"."" V -,j 'rim h- .d almost turns ^iddv at the n -lU.l-
,h,-ou;.^h this chasm .s 'U"^^" ^''V-'^'" 'Z d tl^ . h.sc- of supi'-itin^^ a wooden
I went .loui; a ki..cl ol s'-fMuv^ cr.'-t.d f.r tin 1 H"^^ » ^^, , ^^,^,,i^^,i
..lualuct, dlrou^^h which the waters a.v ;;7';^ ;:!:,,^' ,. ^ ' i. . i.>'o the sides ol
vilher restin, upon In, bea-n. or --y^ ' ; ,^;^ ^ ^ ^ l^oo;. f ,r a consid...-,i,!e
the rock, huu..; over the or,-enl. I "'''';' J >,^ I t::.,verse<l a si.ijrle plank, whieh
u,,V to avoid the nnpeudn.^' rock n. m, u c(s . u , I ^^^^^^ ^^^
ibrms a kind <,f b.id;^e -^^'''^^ /'^V'. ';^ f '''i^ , > ^^ ' \\,^ (or nea.- u
narrow dutl was eo.npelldto ^^^^ ^r^'^^l''}^^^ al,..nd,nd^ iVou, the
,,,nerof anl.ur -'^^ -^ ^ ^^ ^ ;^, ^ ^^ ; i Iv clli^'n'cted : the ho.-ses lo.- the
.reviees "' .^ -, ^; t;^, j^ ^, „ , ^inlo.-.u, ....K.- the overh.n,in.,c.-.„s ; n s,U.-
reception oi the k we ^ ^^^; > ^,^,,,,- ,„ ,/,,,„ by the wnte.s ol the ast
ation so drca.\, that no lon^^r m. . ,, ■ „ , .„ ;.ouvev a ireiieral idea ol tlu ir
century in the least ^^1^^^.^^^^'^^;^^.^^^^^^
jrloo.niness, they represent these duelhn,^s as ''^^^ , yj^ ,„ld.a.^. 'I'ht appn^eh
rock r.r ih. bcan.s uhi.h M.pporied ^'>^' ^'^^^^Vj;- ,,- , .„^ ,„,i,.,, .^e ^out, rheumatism
These paths base been so lenowned lor d.eir ellicac} m n. ,, .. j. . n
• Sco Litttr 5.
\»/^
OM 3 rnwuiJ IN sun.;i. iii..\:it'.
u.iiv,n.ir«'n«, pnTftllv free from Miullnr taste, and aiuHil tin- wiiiuiilj oi milk minu--
xWM' \\ tir.iwti ir«im the «o\\. PirvMii \vl>o h.iM an Iv >• f\ '!»• lu ^y, thil tin y (Upitsit
nosuiiiutnt, arc ns lip;ht aiul jMirc u^raln naur, ua iiin>it jjna-.t'' »«»•!» a siu.ill f|'in\titv
nl' v(/l.\iilc itkali and iron, hut cotUa'm ti'i sulplini .
I rt ttirmtl from tliis Mtuir*- tliioiiili ihc saiuj t !>'isni, ami alon..( tlu' s'tri- t«>»ti riiifr
sciIImUI, and was . ot dispUastd wluii I isMiccl aj;\in int) day. I tluu mnut.iid to ilu
village nl l*|i HI rn, dcscindi d iiii(» tin pi lin dI' tl.c Hliiiu-. and liastvnal to Coin;.
IJ.'I ri.u IA\\\
l'>unri of'thr Thrir f,f,iif,t's....fyiit..,.('ou<t>t>ti^it Piti-n.,..A/,u/f (>/r/>ooKhi7 fJi,' I)r()i,
III >..,., Inalii,:^ If In hvvni f/ic (irisi>n Diit vud t/ic Uriiish Piin'i'/ti;'iif, arcDrlinjf to titt
Plait of f.vlnuliir^f tn t/ir I'mjilc ,it lur^v fhe Jiig/it of rUrUnti; Jh/frntnfutnis...
liiniiirk.^ on the /nrx/trdifnri/ tift/ntt I'idn,
'I'jii cniiiitiv nj'dir (Iriv)n?. ixruidcd into tlnvc lc'a;;iu">, wUkU un\\\j and form one
iiniiMii; , tlu (Iray LcagUi-, the Cadti, or dii: House of tlod, ;'.iidtlu 'IVii Jnn^di 'lions.
'rill rispictiM' i(»inn\iiniiii s of tiasc tlini: la ai;ius have tikir peculiar constitutiuii, iii-
jjA iht-ir niuiiuipal laws and iu>loins, and arc indi-pindt nt ( onin\onuia!ths, in all cou^
firns, which do not intcrlcrc with the general policy of the whole rcpuhli( , or the ar
licUsof the |)arlicular lui^uc ol which they lorm a part.
his remarkable thai die pncisc pi rind at which the three leaj^ues fornuilly tniited to
• onipose one [general npidjlic- cannot l)e asiH rtained from any positivi' record in the
mnals ol lliis country. C anipcl, the Ix st historian of the (irisons, places this event
ibout M.1(j.* Vur, lhonL;h the lirst arlit ies ol imion whic!» are transtnittid to pos-
teiit\ were drawn up in l.r21, it is plain that there wire others of anterior date,
'k cause it is therein expressly mentioned, that the said articles were compiled from a
former treaty, with jj;rcat additions. This tinion has since been frequently renewed at
dilViriiit periods ; but the articles remain w iihout alteration.
The connections betwei II the three leagues is maintained by means of an annual diet
A the congress and of ihc three chiefs.
'Ihe diet is comi)osuI of siMiy-ihii e deputies, and the three chiefs ; llie Gray League
sends twenty -seven, and the I louse of (lot! twenty-two, and the Ten Jurisdictions lour-
leen ; they are chosen in the sexcnil communities by every male at a stated age.|
The diet assembles ajnuially aboui the beginning of September at Hants, Coire, atul
Davos, bv rotation, and continues sitting three wetks or a mouth. The chid' cf the
league in'uhose district the diet is held, is president for that turn, and has the casting
voice in ease of equal suft'rages. The supreme authority is not absolutely and finally
vested in the diet, but in the conuuunities at largi ; for in all aHliirs of impf)rtancc, :>uch
as declaring war, making peace, enacting laws, contracting alliances, and imjiosing
taxes, the clt puties either bring positive instructions from their constituents, or rel'er
those points concerning which they have no instructions, to ihe decision of the respec-
tive communities; so* that in elVeei the supreme pow»r constilulionally resides in the
body of the people, and not in their rtpresenlatives at ilu dut. All questions in the
diet are carried or njected by a majority ot voices, and the mode of voting is as lollows :
In all cases where the communitiis send instructions, the deputies deliver them to the
• SiirtchcM-, however, in his I'allas Ill:tti(\i, fixes ilu' union of tlic tlirec lAi'^ues in 1171, it. :>:ti.
El/., idii. Most nl'tlic Giison liisidii.ui'i loiiuw Spiiclicr.
t Tiic a!,^' w liicli (.lUiiles liicni lo votu ib not exutlly llic sumc in all conaniiiiitics ; in some it com
incnccs as c.ulv as tourieen
ANii IS iiir. *• I « 1 1> "I I'll: i.:ii.'o\
f)rtl
lU|)f)sit
t'» tin
Drill,
til tilt
Mcrtt.iry. ulu) vmU tlu in ;il'nul ; it tin m- iiistriitti')ii«» a*-" oUm nu ly w.>rilt.il, ns «)«)JTK •
limes Iv. j.p- )•:», ciilur tlintiif;li ;u;tiel< nt or jKnicn, ll>v «Ui t (l« ti /*i>iiH;> I»v a muj'irity, iti
mIi.iI ^ctl^«■ iluv sliiill ui' tiikiii. Ill risoliiildiis, ulii«l», I'.r u.'H nl" h»hM.''iiniis, iirr
Mil.JKt, ilur till. (l(.i:i>','Mnl till tliii, iiiilii rt:\iMl «il il.(( onininnitiiH, ri'U mnji'-. ri-
al lih< rt} to VMii ns Ik' < Iioosj ,. Tlu ilurt < liii I-. Ikim no •^nHV.i;;", wit ii the ct>ni
i»iiiiiiti«s send llicir instnifiimis, Ikcimim iIh > an not n pK «.ritl!ili\is ; f»nt in ull Ci\<<i
ulti(Ii;iri litlur not n fi i.il)^', or alkruattls Mnlinntixl i'. '!.i comnuinitit ■ , iluy^oJ'
in llic s.mic nianm r ,.s ili iK putics.
It is woriliy of Kin. Ilk, ili./., alilion|;Ii nuh tKpiMy liiis lliv }io\m i i.| l)iiiif,'ii'ix in anv
\i\\\, or I icipi .liiifr aii'k »|nisiion, yet ln'canonlx « rjniuiini<atc it to ilu assmibly tlirfniiLili
(lit inulii.iu <-!' ilif I'ri '.u!* lit, wliotnay lay i» lilort tln' j^m niltiv, \\it!i(.\it any pr-'vion*
iK^ticc, at an) tin.( hi lore ils <ll^s(llntiou ; a prl\iU'p;e which ii.vists liih> wilh j;r^at in
fliiincc in I r<>ni(*iiii>f dr op| osin^- ihi' sniftss ol a niotiiin,
'I'lic (lijiitiij* rmivi, lor tlu ir atlinthiiK »., a iinall salary honi lltt |iiililic lrtnr»\iry,
which lit vir I Xdids live shillin>^s a (la\ .
l'',Nti.ioi(linar\ die Is aix ronMikid at llie rii|iiist of an\ lonii^ii com I. \' ha Mil! di-
charK« the ixpuii'i' of i)k sitti if^s, and tipon t)ilK'r imp<'i'li'itt cimrmiicits. This ex
tra( rdinaiy asMinhl} is st niitinus ((jnpcMd ol all the d( pnlit s, -M tith^r tiivisol'oidy
hall till iiiinih'. r, in which t: ■^c it is »allid a h: lt'tlii.1 ; the deputies aii- chos<.n in th.
.saoK manner as at liu. ikctic^r. ol' a ^i nual tlivi, and its powers art the >«,inK'.
Tilt arisiiK ratiial party is still I'lmhcr .-irc'i;;!!!! ncd l>\ the power delt.;j;ated to th<'
Hinpriss; an assiinl;!} Imnicdhx du. thict ihii I •. mil tin ic du'tiiii s IVtim each lii.f^iiiv
III tlu lira) Lia^ui these iK pniivs are noit inaie d l>) tin Landric IiUr : it\ each ol' thi
other lea;,nis they are eli(>sen hy rotation rnitu ihc comnuniiiii' .
This coni^ress j;incially meets in I'lhrtiary or Ahirch at ('oire ; lor whieli reason tli'-
chiii ol iht Leajiiie ol (li'd's Ihmst is |iic sidmt ; its ollice is to i\ eeive the' \i)tes of tin-
Several eoninuMiiiiis, relative to the (jnesiioris n le rreil to their di liberation at the la-jt
diet, and to eomnninicate to each the result of tin |j;eiK ral dt iiision. Whenever the an-
bwer ola eomnini\it) is not clearly woriUd, the t:onr;rissdilermin's the ineaningcjl' the
vole, and this eircunisiaiife pixes an openin;; to nuirh intri,L;iijL'. J'or, it' tlie K idin;^
persons in an} comnuniil' elo not t.hoose to lorni a posiii\e' dci i-itiK, tlu\' have il f)l).
seiirel) worded, |)rovif.leil the) arc certain that a majority c^l' the ei»n^ress will aliix thai
inte rpretation \t hich thi\ dt sn\ . This assmihl) issnes decrees to the snbjcct coiiiiiries :
il' sill h decrei^. .ire iJLjei able to die 'iovi mors, tliey carrv them into execution; but il'
otheruisv, and tin y <.mii secure a niajonti at tin. appro.ic.liinL;- diet, they reject tlieni, .:!•
ledginpithal coni^ress has eX'iedul its ])o\\er. The three (hiiTs, as we II as eac!!i ol' tl: ■
other meiid)ers of the etmgrc is, reeeMe a>. a delr.i) nu nt of iheir expeiices .VI llurin'.
or aboni t).
'I'he three eliiil's asseiiiblf ri!!,nlarh three tinus in da \ear at C't/ire, and, ur.un anv
ctnergenc) , niay be also si:n.ai'i?ted by the chief ol' du' Li ,i|j,iie' of (lods Ilwnsi . The
principal meeting is in the mi/i\ih ol Ma) , \\ hen tin \ w rite lire.ilar hlti rs to the m vi ral
comimniiiies, coaeerniii;; the <,iiestioiis whi'h are' lo ne laid before the (;• m ral l^\v\.
All iIk circular letters are wtiiteii in (lermaii, and are translated into Italian or Pto-
iTiatish by the notaries ol the disiri«:i whcie those laii<;iia^vs arc spoken ; all public acif.
and documents are compiled in (lerman ; at thrilict ;ill l)i!ls are prDposcd in tint Ian
j^uai^e, but the deputies whoiltj n<jl iindeiMand (iernui.t ma\ speak Italian. •
• LM uii till eiiiisi'muii)iis il' Suit/i il;i|\il, i.luil of tludii'^oiis vus il\c iiKi^ulfiiiorriilic, :ui(I nnmi
•uc()iit.i,ii ii.av)' ol tiif t- I'li'i.i) ^•ll.ll■;||•ln•t^^.■l■s ( <ni>,i(li'riil 'n' Ih" I'li 'i'!i;»s i I'lst'tniiiU'' u »)ri'i. < ' firMt,
\'0i.. V. (■»(.'
VOi.
coxK a rnAVErs in swrrzEnr.ANU,
Thr)sc tlieorisfs, who ;irc so anxious to reform thu Kii^lisli house oJ commons hy
tr.iiisltrriiiji; lo tht people at lari;e the elccti(jn of their representatives in parliament,
mit';ht, on c xamiiiiiii^ with attention the features of tlie Orison diet, fondly imaij^ine, that
an annual assinibly, in tlie choice of whose members every male of the state has a vote,
an>i which, in all ina'erial occurrences, is liable to be directed by its constituents, must
neeess;'rily be the purest sanctuary of general freedom. In this instance, however, their
( orij(.eUnes are by no means consonant to fact and experience ; as corruption and in-
lliiini ^' oix not in any national parliament more conspicuous than in the diet (jf the
Ciii^ons.
I'or alihuiif^h. in j^cneral, those .lepuiies, annually chosen by every male of a stated
aL;e, arc suIijlci to be controlled in their votes by written orders from tluir constituents,
yet the) fre(juently contrive to elude this restriction. Sometin)cs the instructions are
drawn up, with the consent of the comnunuty, under the sole direction of the deputy
I; rase If ; at other times, an exemption from positive instructions, and the power of vo-
tini;- at his ow n pleasure, is purchased by tlu' de|)nt) from his constituents. Sometimes
;it;;iin, the deputy, although he cannot gain either of these p(/nits, has still sufficient ad-
riress io get his instructions so obscurely worded as to admit a doubtful interpretation.
By various intrigues of this kind the greater part of the dei)uties ultimately acquire
tin; power of \ oiing as they please ; and as they cheifly obtain Uiis power by corrupting
theii' ( onstiluent:., most of tiiem in return sell their vote to the leading members of the
diet ; for most questions are carried, and most causes decided, by bribery. Nor can it
well be otiurw ise, when the electors are persons in needy circumstances ; and the
members, who have purchased their seats, are not themselves exalted by their posses-
sions al)ove temptation.
if rcpn scntativc t^ovcTnmcnt, such as primary iisseniblics, animal c!i-ctioiis, imivcrsal sulTragc, andgcn-
-ral cli^il)iUty. Y<'t tin- rrench no less attL'ni|)ti'fl to dcniot ratisc tlie most democratic constitution on
■ uirth, and piovcci tiiat possession, and not rel'orm, was their oijjcct. It was not diflTicult to excite tu-
i-.iult and iMsurreciion among a people divided into factions, and turbulcni from the popular nature
'"l" iheir vonstitution.
As early as 1790, the ai2;cnts of France were industrious in disseminating the new principles, but
:iic }^re;it body of v. le people were averse to all innovation. At Iciujtlj, in 1794, a society of (Irison
•accjbins iuduci'd the pe.ipleto abolish the ancient form of t^overnment, to substitute a National Con-
vention ill the place of the General Diet, and to throw themselves under tlie protection of France ; and
■.hisrt'vohui(jn was accompanied with the usual horrors of pillage, banishment, and bloodshed.
This precarious tenure, however, did not satisfy the French rulers, wlie coveted the possession of 4
fiunlry, v.hich commanded the passes of Switzerland and the Tyrol ; i.iid Bonaparte had no sooner
caicluded tlie armistice with the emperor, than he dismembered the Valteline, Chiavenna, and Bor-
■ iiio, and annexed them lo the Cisalpine republic. This perfidious conduct unveiled the ambitious
ncsigh- of France, iufl.imedthe resentments of the i)eople against I'lcii' jacobin leaders, anil the anti-
■ c volu'ionury party began lo recover their ascendency. The luoceedinjciiof the French inrevolulioni-
• Jng S-,vitzeri,ind. ;',>k1 the cruelties committed in the small cantons, ])uiiicularly the massacre of Un-
;;erv.alth:n, excited Lfiuiral horrcjr, and the people, inspired by the appr(jach of an Austrian army rc-
.cctedihe mandate ot the Frewch directory lo incorporate themselves with the Helvetic Republic, one
..nd indivisible, le-i stablislieil the ancient government, drove out the agents of France, recalled the
' siles. iiL:;recd a <lefen:ave armament under the command of M. de Sails of Marchlins, and gave
• 'ai( e U) tlu court of \'ienna of theii' intiiition U) elaimllie number nf troops stipulated by the cupitu-
;:'.t;on of Milan.
Ciciicral Scii.iwcinbourg instantly marched iifieen tliousand troops to the frontiers of the Grisons,
.'.n the side of Sargans. and prepared, with tli'j aid of the French jjariy, to regain possession of the
' ou'.urv. Tiie insurgents secretly assembled on the night of the 5th of October at Mayenfield and
.Malai.tz; Ijiit ll'.e (';nsi)iiacy l;cing detected, tlie alarum-bell wasscninded, the jacobins were di.sarmcd,
•.(11 iin.i.Muid {)( \.saiils ikw lo Uie dehles, and the regents, e([Ually disregardiiu; liie tlireats .'.nd prom-
i is ot "Jie licncli rcsldenl, demanded me assistance of llie emperor, and cuiiimilied tin- delence of
•,ai. Ir ctjiin;ry to an Au^l.rian army.
On ilic iciiewal of hostilities between France and Austria, the country of Grisons became the scene
f,! bliiody co.ileits, and was alleinalely occupied liyboth armies; but is now ('. 8ul ) in the possession,
vuiil uiider ihe pcnver of France.
\ N ij IN rllh "OUNluv oi liii: r.nijUi:
)6.
Thu. the .cacliir- ni^'nilKr, sccur.- :in unboniuUd s\v:iy in ti.e '..liir, ;•! u.<' <•'- = • >'■
.till it should sum that uluUcvcr ..Hucncc thc^ "uy .)l;tari by rorruptiiU^Mhr , j.m^^^
vet as the diet docs not in many cases decide linally, tlu-v could uot arqu. c u sa.u
uu horliv in those concerus which must be rderrcd to the detcTm.nat.o,, o the < on •
mu iil's a large. Here at least ue mii,du expect the unbiassec sense of the major,,:
Tthc neoV,le. ^ lint it ,nav be universally remarked, that the delc-^ation o cU hbcra Uv
author, y to the people at large, vmavoidably tends to intrudnce an actual thou.i;h not an
ucknowledqcd. Irislocra.y. ' For a numerous populace summoned t<> detcrnnne npo ,
political, legislative, and judicial questions, far above the.r comprehensions. ^^^^'J^^^
hemsel es to the direction of more informed men, especially when aided oy he rccom.
mendation of superior wealth. The deputies being generally the clue s n those con
munities which they represent, have the principal mnuence, and easily find means to
Sine the opinion of M.e people to the side which they haveespoused. In tact, w.thou
this aristocratical influence, the excess of freedom would degenerate mto anarch) , anc
public deliberations be attended with endless disputes and factions.
If therefore corruption and aristocratical influence alone dimimsh factions and prevon
anarchy in so poor a country as that of the Orisons, and in a republic scarcely known
among the nations of Europe ; to what a dreadful excess mnst the same evils prevail it
the same mode of electing, and giving instructions to members of par lamcnt, subsistea
in a kiiiLrdom like England, where riches and luxury are coiuinually advancing with such
rapid strides, where the most important political and comniercial debates are agitated
without restraint, and where the decisions of public aftairs frequently aff-ect the peace
and interests of all Europe. , , . .1 i r
Theoretical reasoners may, indeed, attempt to prove, that the best method of pre
vcntiuK corruption is to augment the number of electors, from the chimerical idea, tha'
larce numbers cannot be bribed. But if we appeal from uncertain theory to more ccr
tain experience, we shall find that this argument is contradicted by the history of all ages.
An\ong the Grecian republics, those commonwealths in which the magistrates were
chosen by the people at large, were the most venal. Among the Romans, the most
cflectual means which Julius Caesar, the ablest politician of his age, employed to sub-
imrate his country, was to extend the privileges and votes of Roman citizens t<3 all the
inhabitants of Italy. The members of the Polish diet,* which is no less venal than the
diet of the Orisons, arc chosen by needv and numerous electors, of whom far the greater
part possess no property ; and whose numbers, instead of preventing, necessarilx tend
to increase influence and corruption.!
• Sec Travels into PoUuul, Russia, kc. Vol.1, b. 1. c. vi. kviii. . , ^. , ,
t If insunces wciv wanliiii; to juslity the iruih of these ohservations, the trench revohitKJU wiU
Afford an uncontrovertibh; example. Tlie ^'reat and leadinjj leaturcs of their reprcseiUatiye lorni 01
j'ovcrnmeut, which \v;,s to yive hapi)iness and peace to numkind, were, as in the CJnson diet, anuuJ
dertions, universal sufVrage, and -cneral eli^-ibility williout any qualification. The consoqwcnccs
have been venality, persecution, anarchy, and univcrs.d spoliation, which have nliiniately tenninated
in despotism. l-"oriunately the K't-at majority of Uic Eiu^lish nation are hilly conviiucd that the absur-
dity of realisinj,' the specious notion of a reform in parliainci.l is proved l)y e.\peru;uce, and tinil uni-
versal suffrage, annual elections, and irineral cligibiluy without qualification, would be afleiKkd vail:
the same fatal effects which they produced in France.
Tho French having, in the commencement of the re vohilionary career, made every thing subscrvuiit
to personal liberty, and constituted their fabric of government on tlie basis of universal suffrage, an
now hurrying into the contrary extreme, and in the new metaphysical system the rights of property ;n <■
alone considered.
6 G 2
^^^
.]!.\\ Ut.3 IN jVMir.!-.ni. '. M».
Ll/rrKR LXXXVI.
lailvii nf Sn}>m Sc/v,!....I!inits... Tru!is...,Ihu'nf:s....Tavrtch.
IMl'Vrn'.X'l to return to Kti-l.ml. lifttr so Ion- an ah.uux^ IVom riiv Iriu.cls, i
^c.,H■.c]:;y morning quiucd Coirc-, ,k.ss.cI by Kmhs, ancl over th. n-ul^c oi liuhcnau
^..hi.h 1 ai,-ain slopp'd to aduiirc, as it br^klly projcctul ov.r tbc Kuuk I l > u r -
.,..,U.e;id.o.•llLn>ou,y.u,.^.lnd. separate U.cC.r^^^
.oil'- I he sKk' o t ii: iiiouniains \\nn.ii -.umi.uv mv- v.........
; rt ;o.;;h Taunns, ana Kit Fliu. on nu ri.IU, situated about a 'P'-^ j' /' -' j;,^-
the road, i.ra pKas.nt plain. The houses olthese tojvns are n;H scattered hke e ol
Oav..s but sta id in separate clusters, resembling the Inn-l'.s ol l.ni^fuu. IL.^ ni^^tra-
;;:id\hiek l-..-ests .1 pines, an>: a very uild eountry, riehly d.ver.. lad wuh gra.u and
pasture, I descended to the deep bed of the Rhine and erosv d U to Hants
^ Ilant^, the capital old.e GraN League, is a small town, eontaunng about sMV hm,se
and partly surannuled by uulis; a eireumstanee ulneh ^^^V■^^'> ;»'^''''-^^^'';'^, '"V j '
the onlv Vailed town, excepting toire, in tins country It is also rn'U.rkabl c. s t.hc
i.lace u'lure the general diet of the three leagues assembles everv th.rd vear 1 he .wL-
ucent country is fertile in every species of gra.n and pasture. 1 !.. pomts ol w a.c
inconuMonh^ line, exhibiting asnull i>lain ski,ud by culuvated ^l^--^^^^;^ '^^^^
by a ridge of barren rocks which bot,nd the n alley ol Lugnet.. I he l^' '^ '^ ^ ; ^^^
isspokea in these purls diilers considerably, l)oth as to pronunciation and o..logja)i>,
from that of Engadina. Bv the assistance of some persc.ns to whom 1 had l^^^'"'^ <-;
4muKndation,"l procurcd'several books in the dialect of dus league ; these, in add. o
^Xrs I obtained in Engadina, have so consieUral,ly sjvviled my ^^^^f^f^^^^y^^^
if I continue to increase du- coUectiun. 1 must lure au additional horse lor the purpose ol
I' irr\ in"" mv buLTtraixe of information. , r t, /-. .i i •
^ ^hi;rtract oUomnry, stretching irom Keiehenau to the monnta.no ^^ Godurd, is
■ailed die valley of Sop.-a Selva, and is the most populous part oi the Gra} l.e.ague.
Q nit i.tg Hants, I pfu'sued my route at the foot of the .u;H,nta...s, through ;^ pl;;'|^ov-
ered with pasture and io.-est by the side of the Uhi.ie, winch .s rapid a.id shallow and
^IddU^^rh a rocky counfry , coiuinually aseuKli,ig aiKl desce>.c mg .^
of forest. 1 crossed d;e Rhine several times during the last lour or live miles . that nver
iLrn'^ Repeated cataracts, as 1 judged Iroin the roaring sound, lor the cyening was so
tl 1 '^ ilvii I c(juld not dislinsiuish any object.
Un^iycxli e t Truns, ivma.kaWe i.; the history of tins country, as the place ^vhcre
;he^ ri"nde:nce of the U.gue was lirst ratiUed, and an ^''"--.-'^^^'^ ^^ ;^^,^^:,^
.hiefs and the eommunilles. A.i aged oak si.ll exi.ts, under wh.eh, aeco.du.g to t adi^
^Z three chic fs conilr.ned the Liberties of the league ; a.vd near it a chapel, whose
walls are pamied widi a ixpresentati.jn ol the ce.-em<my. ^ . ^ r , „„„. :^ .,„
My cu io.iiy led .uetod.e town-h(Hise, in which the d.et of he Grav League i s .m ^
nuah • ^ emb;;d. The .-oom is well adapted lor the purpose uul ,s -'l^^r^y P^j^"^
wldi the arms of the Landrichters, begi.mi.ig Irom diose ol John oi Lambris, the fiist
.'. Ni) »N
inii, cuLsniv ni rill'; gi!I.><'N
V(').i
uiid
l„u..i,.Ktl" »-m.ly,..,lu.vs .,lcl K .a ^^^^^ ^^ ^ _^^^ ^,^^^ ^,^,,
of ihc Ciray League. . .n^^ion from an ul)lx y of tha',
Discnt.s, IronMvliLi.cc 1 am nrn^ ^^" ';-;;; ,. ,,, .\,,thc Grav lAULnic, and who,
name, whose abbot ^va. O.rnurly ^^'^'^''^ ^^ ' ;' ^^ ^ ' yc Ta^ ue of ll^ ch.ets of the
ulthoUKh hehassuftlrcd ^^ <l>'-'-l^'?';,^:\ ^,^ .^t ^ ^^^ of artai».
league, still possesses no ''»^-'-|'^^';^^/^ ' ^^J V ; J \^^^^^^^^^^^ tlud few acts cai» pass in
AtHhediet of Truns he -^ -»y;^ ^^ ' ^.^ ^ ^^d',;;^;!. is not present, he ti.av be
opposition to h.s will. In die ^;'^"^\ .^ ' , fi;,,,^ Jurisdiction of Diseutis arc
silk to possess lour votes, -^- I^^I^X'^'^ ^h ^^^^^^^^ to the Gray
eciierallv nominated throui,di I is muiest. ; J ' ^ , . , j ^,,^i,,,.^ fourt votes
La^ue': by die nomination oi t'-/-;;^;^ ^ ^ .^ ^ , ^^ , j ', :;.c^^^^ diet of the Gri-
in the congress U diat sitting, and has also "^^;' \ '^^J^^ ,..^,^.^ ^^y^^ , ...vc.n.e is
'^"^^•'■^'- , , -1 (■ fi.r. mniiiit ."in is a lafc (luudriuit'ular buildiniT.
-rhe. abbey, situated upon the side ol the oi na n ,, i ar c ^,> ,,i,,,,a Uutt
and m.kes a magnilkeni appearance ^^^ , ^ ;^ ;^'^;^^ of m" n^,,! ,, , Coire, and
tl>c abbot was not m die country; . , ;^.;^^,;''"^:^ i^ ," ^^'.^ his absence, he-
found him a person ol consulerabk '"'^ 7, ;, ! Ij -^^.^V^ u a.v said u, coiitain several
cause he had ui Hj^^-ession the kev ^ d w nu es, ^^^^^^^^^^^ ,,, ,,,, ,,
curious records ol high an'. quit) . i ne p., -.i ., .h.- P-reit church, dv, v carriea
(irub • - ' ~
RhtiiiwuUUaid St liunis -
Uit/.uns - ' '
Tu^iis - • ' "
16
v^;ur loiailutucc luur vous. n\ the coiigi'CSb.
96f'.
i)\E - I
. V li L i 1 .N J \'.' I I i t R L A N 1» ,
Catholics, arc IrtqueuUv printed in the abhcy, I procured sevcMl Iromtiic niunks, par-
ticularly a vocabulary of the Romansh spoken in the vitlley of Soj^ra Sdva.
Disentisis a stragglin.Cf village lying upon a gentle declivity, uhich slopes gr.i.hi;illy
iVotn the foot ofthc'tiiou'ntainsio the bunks of the Rhine. The sides of tin nvj-iuumis
are clothed with groves of firs and small birch ; the lower parts yield rich pustur.-, a
small quantity of wheat, rye, and millet. Opposite Disentis is the valley o( Mtdels,
from which descends a torrent called the Middle Rhine, and joins the upper branch that
flows from the chain of the St. Gothard.
The communities of Disentis and Tavetch, which form a High Jurisdiction, occupy
the western extremity of the valley of Sopra Selva, stretching as far as the confines of
Uri. The whole body of people assemble every two years at Disentis, in the open air,
fur the choice of the Landamman, and for the confirmation of their magistrates, as well as
for the purpose of enacting laws; liiey nominate also to the governments of the sul)ject
provinces. The courts of judicature 'are established at Disentis, and the judges chosen
by the people in the separate districts. The general administration of affairs is entrusted
to a council of sixteen, which gives instructions to their deputies sent by the two com-
munities to the general diet of the three leagues. The Landamman is president, and has
the casting voice. The abbot enjoys the privilege oi' being present at all political ques-
tions, and of giving his vote ; he has considerable influence in these communities. For-
merly the fines for criminal ofllnces belonged to him ; but one of his predecessors having
disposed of that right, they arc now divided among the judges.
September 30th.
1 (QUITTED Disentis this morning, and ui about two hours entered the pleasant valley
of Tavetch, lying at the foot of the Alps which separate the Grisons from the canton of
Uri. The villages are numerous, and consist of scattered cottages chiefly constructed
of wood, resembling the Swiss hamlets in the small cantons. I met many large herds
of cattle just descended from the higher Alps, and drivhig towards the fairs of Tirano
and Lugano.
The valley of Tavetch produces pasture, hemp, and flax, and a small quantity ol rye
and barley ; the trees are chiefly firs and pines, and their number gradually diminishes
towards the extremity of the vale. From Tavetch I ascended a narrow path, and passed
through Selva and Cimut, the last village in the country of the Grisons where I
.uul: mv flirewell of the Romansh. The country became more and more wild as I
ascended ; and the Upper Rhine gradually diminished as I approached its source. A
little beyond C.iuut 1 came into a small plain of pasture, watered by two streams which
unite and form the Upper Rhine. I once intended to visit the source of the principal
stream, that precipitates from mount Badus ; but finding, upon inquiry from the inha-
bitants of Selva, that it would employ at least five hours ; as the day was far advanced,
and mv late illness has disqualified me for such fatiguing journeys, I prudently pursued
my route to Urseren. At Cimut, a peasant, who had freciuently visited the spot, ni-
formed me, that the chief source of the Rhine descends from a glacier upon the summit
of the Badus, and forms a piece of water about half a mile in circumference, called the
lake of St. Thomas ; from this lake a torrent precipitates itself down the mountain,
and being joined by many springs and currents, forms the larger of the two streams,
which unite in the above-mentioned plain. From this plain I ascended by the side of
the smaller stream, until I traced it falling from a glacier close to the C(infines of the
fanton of Uri. The ascent, though abrupt and craggy, was not so difficult as the pas-
.\\a IN THt 'OUNif*/ oi int. cnrsoNs.
•JO ■/
saf?t of tlK Hniirru) or ihi Murct. These Alps produce no trees, t)ui an covered to a
'' Afte. tuu l.onrs coutu.v:ed ascent from the valley of Tavetch, I reached the highest
point of the chain which separates the country of the Orisons from the canton ol Un ;
a few paces further I passed a i.ost without an inscription, which marks the boundary he^
twecn the two respective territories. Soon afterwards I arrived at a lake ol an oblong
shape, a mile and a half in circumference, formed principally by a torrent that falls from
the northern side of the same chain which i^ives rise to the Rhme ; the ake supplies u
stream that may be called one of the sources of the Ueuss. I followed it as it tlows
through a narrow plain, until 1 cainc to a steep descent, where the bcautitul valley ol
Urseren suddenly burst upon my view.
LETTER LXXXVII.
General Idea of the Courts of Justice....lh'Hgion.... Revenues..,. Population.
DURING the course of mv correspondence I have occasionally mentioned the judi-
cial proceedings in some of' the communities. I shall here remark in general, that
throughout the three Leagues the Roman law prevails, modified by municipal custonis.
The courts of justice in each conimunitv arc composed of the chief magistrate, who
presides, and a certain number of jurymen chosen by the people : they have no regu-
lar salary, but receive for their attendance a small sum, arising m some conimunuies
from the expenccs of the process, which are defrayed by the criminals, in others from
a share of the fines. Thev enjoy the power of pardoning or diminishing the penalty,
and of receiving a composition in money. This mode of proceeding supposes, what is
as absurd in theory as it is contrary to experience, that judges will incline to merv
when it is their interest to convict; or will impartially inflict punishment even wWr.
injurious to their own private advantage. , ^ , <•
The prisoners are examined in private, and frcfiucntly tortured for the purpose o\
forcing confession, when the judges cither divide the fines, or remit the punishment for
a composition. In some districts a criminal trial is a kind of festival to the judges, ior
whom a good repast* is provided at the cxpence of the prisoner, if convicted : thus the
allusion in Garth's Dispensary, applied with more wit than truth to our courts ol justice,
is literally fulfilled :
"And wretches hang, that jurymen may dine."
Capital punishments, however, are extremely rare ; a circumstance arising not from
any peculiar lenity in the penal statutes, or a propensity to mercy in die judges ; but
because the judges draw more advantages from fining than executing an oflendcr. In
a word, to use the expression of Burne^ which is no less true at present than in his time,
•' Many crimes go unpunished, if the p-rsons who commit them have either great credit
or much money." ,, 1 ,.
It is remarkable that torture is more iiecjuently applied, and tor smaller delinquen-
cies, in these independent republics, than in the subject provinces. The infliction of it
depends entirely upon the arbitrary will of the judges, a majority of whom may order
it for an olRnce which by the statutes is not capital, nor even punishable by corporal
penalties. Thus it is not uncommon, in those communities where fines are divided
• A spcci-k hum is allowed for the cxpence of the dinner, amountiru!: in fjcnerul to .ilout 48 flor'^v
[i6H
en: a. 3
1 iiA\ r.LS IN s\vir/-r.in,A.vr.'.
1 i^.c in torture- women r)f loose cotiduct, lor in." purivsc of conipcllini,'
n.shul.lf b> lin , I.. 'Y' \ , ,,^^,.i^^j^ ,,1,,,, ,K. lines an p.ui t., ihe oninuun'y
anK.ug Uk .Hkc^ l^^an o v tllu:lcd ; Invausc, uiun llu: s,nv>,.r ,. no, lound
i;;;;;;;^ ^cv;;;ec^:;f r,.-oj..iaii ui>.n ti. puhnc ...a ... j.^u,. r.c.vc ..
uuoU.nuni. ,,u,scsure der-uU.lI.y hril.in^ tin jud;..s; and npprals,
gu. r :l .uKclinn. '»J ^ -^ ,^^, ^ V,,,,, Uul tl.c K"'vcruwr,, ... the sul-j.ct pro-
:;:;:.h;;::aut;p!;:;i::ny ■;;:;!- j.-u., u he,. the,r powc- . cun-^ed, ...d uhe.
.• * . ''\uX.i^ t I blc eluauber ol ju.t.ce, u hieh u... . Mal„.,iH d np-^ I'^.t.
tl'li tl'^ Miatl<,UieU ,1 oi [u J a-- , ,1^, , ,,.,sciil ol the i.nMC-
cU- ..,.«„„„ ,m. m ...^ - :;; ' f , ' u L to nv.r ,lv. ,1,,.. k,«,u.: I.
T" 'n s en.;, mm u,l.,>v, ...a a.:'., like- . «.urL ,>l m,,u:M.„m; «,.,; K'Vc
thi.u. ll"^'-"";''!''"'',;, „,,,,„ ,,„,. ,,,,,,t u^cisjai-v tmlsc.nir mi trmli of Midi
^"tr nl^e^i, ve,, u.u.,i in the last --'O,, --^;;>-^^;;t:^:^^
^^ ^•'!^r ^^d^uV^:.:;;? c^ lieXdl^^^ Clll i:^ :;;:i^ueennons ^.-oeeedn,,. or
:;.o,!s ioleS u. this coantry. By the llclo.-n.ed .s meant what wc call CaUunsm,
MnnKU>yorUucuw.nnumiv.,inrc,,ain.n.H..iw.uunurn.<U)crs.m..spuniKl,..cl
A uvai'i-ifil and Millie p> i'm)Ii - • • -
I'l r><jus uinii.ii'iit-d - - ?,. •' ii '
..lio, tl.c tullossiUK .U^in.uon ol . ^^;;';^' ' '^j^^^ bicU.a n,oUu el lu^uvi.-nt., uu.iuuuiine e-lu-
,a M l.oia. ..:. in.di. .,..s. his . All 1. .1^ ^^^_^ ^^^.^^ ^^^^^^^ sxvicudi oc. UMOnCU ]Un-lP> u-.tuoanus
|l)vuriiieof.M)'jflonn<.
:>.)
ex lunioic e. libiumc pkbi^ it puiU.
AN'D IS "illi. fOUNTP.V f)I' illi: f.ltrSON.
Vi-*
in;;
n\-
t.il
i-y,
Hid
I S'-
to
his
■si'-
or
utliough It IS not tin; same as \va:i (stahlislitd at Cktu'va. I'or, ii) tlic rclfiiWution \\-X<
introduced into this country l)y Uic distijjks of Zuin;;K\ tin; rclif^ion of ilic Prot( staiv.
Orisons hoars a p;rt'atcr resemblance to that settl( d at /uric, than to \\k chtncli of (ie-
neva ; allhouf^lj the dilRrenec hetuecn the two sects is ( xtrcincly triflill,\^ Aniorip; thi
Orisons the IVotestatits are more u'lnicroiis than the Cathohcs, beint; estimated iisaI>oiit
two thirds of ihc inhabitants ; and Su,;;yan justly asserts,' diat, "as nil ihi ir cle( tion:,
arc decided by the plurality of voices, the republic of the Orisons may be diiinul !i
Protestant state."
The reformation was introduced very early : the new doctrines were lirst pro:;chc(i
about the year 1524, and received at Flcfseh, a small villaij;c in the Ten JurisdictiMn',,
upon the confmes of Sarj^ans : from thence they were extended to Majenfield and
Malantc, and soon afterwards throuf,di the whole valley of Pretip;au. Tiic reformed
opinions sj^read with such celerity, that before the end of the sixteenth century they
were embraced by the whole league of the Ten Jurisdictions (exceptin;^ part of tlv
community of Alvcnew) the greater part of the Ilcnise of Ood, and a few communi
ties in the Oray League.
The difference of religion nearly excited a civil war between the two sects, as well :,:
the first introduction of the reformation, as at tiie beginning of the troubles in the \'al
telinc, where the two parties rose in arms ; but the Catholics being overpowered by th'
Protestants, matters were amicably adjusted. Since that period, all religious concern!;
have been regulated with perfect cordiality. According to the general consent of the
three leagues, each community, being absolute within its little territory, has the powei
of appointing its own mode of worship, and the inhabitants arc free to follow either the
Catholic or Reformed persuasion. In the administration of civil affairs religion has no
interference, the deputies of the general diet may be members of either communion.
By this moderate and tolerating principle all religious dissensions have been suppressed,
and the most perfect amity sul)sists between the two sects.
In spiritual concerns the Catholics for the most part are under the jurisdiction of the
bishop of Coire. Fo the affairs of the reformed churches, each league is divided into
a certain number of districts, the ministers whereof assemble twice every year: these
assemblies are called colloquia. Each colloquium has its president, and each league a
superintendant, called a dean. The supreme authority in spiritual concerns is vested in
the synod, which is composed of the three deans, and the clergy of each league ; tin
synod assembles every year alternately in each of tlic three leagues. Candidates for hoi*
orders arc examined before the synod. The necessary qualification for admission into
the church ought to be the knowledge of Hebrew, Orcek, and Latin ; but this rule i-
not strictly adhered to, many being ordained without the least acquaintance with either
of those languages, if'ormerly Latin was solely used, as well in the debates of the s\'-
nodas for the purpose of examining the candidates, but at present that tongue grows
more and more into disuse, and German is employed in its stead.
The number of reformed parishes in the whole three Leagues amounts to one luui-
dred and thirty-five. In the Oray League forty-six, in that of Ood's House lifty-threr.
and in the League of Ten Jurisdictions thirty-six. The ministers of these churches en
joy very small salaries. The richest benefices do not perhaps yield more than 201. or
at most 251. per ami. and the poorest sometimes scarcely 61.
This scanty income is attended with many inconveniences. It obliges tlie elerg\ .
uho have families, to follow some branch of traffic, to the neglect of their eeclcsiastira;
VOL. V
• Stutc of Switzerland, p, -' ?P
,,y,, coke's rnAVELi in sunztnLANn,
...Hlics Miul to the (Uur.ubti(.i» nf the vr-l'^ssu.niil (hamclu-. Anoihcr uH-rmvtntcncc
s . ;:Xu. a'^^^ ,.r tluil- i.uo,uc. In ,nost comnunuu; s the nn.... m
'^'iV:M.r';t;;, ' th:'lanc.i.h.tcs U. ho.y ...cUrs ar. ..nu-..l,v .---Iv i.-'-; ;
iKv .muct s„,>pcM. tint cxpuu:c which is rccpns.t. t.» pursur tht.r -'"'' ^ ' > ' ^
t mi.n.t.cl ui 1) the cxpcri.tH.u of a (U.cnt comp.t.ncr, and, from the depi mU
n ci K >• .l-tiou, afc not cncoura.al to (Users, their l"'-"^"- '>-.;;:^;;;^^^
I i.v nl' eha,..< t. r. lU.t there are n<.t want.ni,^ a lew .n.-n o K^^'" J- ' '^ .^^ ,;,^'
:,KiK. ;.s uell iu th'-ir protv^sioniil studies as in other oranehes (.1 pohte I' ""-mnf,
1 1 • A, orta vLin I hn>k up to as a kind of ph.cnonu ,Ui .n the hterary wo d I
!k"; pu uJith 'u o ';; th>ce . le. k> men who are .reatly distin.nush.d lor the.r erud.t.on,
i,,id v.iu) would do etxdit to any (hureh. , i k , ,.p ,.nt evutlv the
It 1. r.nvak.l.le, that the ht,u|ries of ll."se rciornud ehur hrs aic '^^^ ^^;^^'^^> '^
..u ul • divc-itv owiuR to the iudep. nd tiec of so u.any s.n ill eonimo nue a.ths, ^^\y> 1
:d;lewi in their little territories n. all eon-erns thai do not alleet the po ht.eal
• r 1 e I u( s The <hun h- s ol the Vmimu c onununitu s use Uk^ httirjry
;:i' /;;;:! ;'bu!;:^th;:i;C'ol prayer wasanund^l in IVGO, sotnc of the mnusters ad
. •.rtlvn.w and nihers Still retain the aneiinl liiurp;\. . , , • • r,u,.
S ;iu (.a kl as-orof Hants, apcr.nof i;.eat kar.nn^ ":.^'^^ '^^^'l?'"? .'^^^
respec'^'v^ "'^l'^""^-' "'i"^'^" n.nu.i.v^ of the llahan ehurehcs employ a tian.laUon ol t.v
|;:;t':';!l'"iHS "-ngiy .n,,K,s.d lr„m religious scruples, it ,v.s absolu.dy ujccK...
„il 111,, hilvihkams of IViiralia iiiram atlopuil tlit oui stylf.
T : r vcm A thKc- L.aKU« arise from the f. Jl.nvmg ar.,c es : ^ ,, , ,.
VL- mil' qxm . .m.-eha,ulise wl.iel, p.s^es ,l„„„sl. ti.e^Unsoas, the Vahcm ,
h h 1 i- thev are farmed at the annual rate ..f 17,000 flor.ns, or about 12M.
1 A^' ,; o'nh'etLs'l'ucl upon deliu.p,en,s i„ .he ^'''i-iV-'t"; t^^l
^•i ;;^;c ^;!:ni;;f t ::^'»:i«i„«, l.ein, chie,,,. „,.!,.. - O. .^^e^cs i^^
iiity which he represents.
"Tl'::,:;"ii"^;")"'™"- .>., .....r... l.,.a. ,1. an.oa, .1... nc«, vvl„ .„., .,«■, .:.,=c., W ,.
\c.-.il i''.()tcsti;','t coin'.iiu:.e.i<.^>
\ .\ l>
IS Mir. coiNMiv 01 nil. '.RiauNo.
tlK-
Many disputtr, lave occasi„nally risen ainouK' th.; (.ns«.ns in rcKU. I in " \ P" ;[ ' '
oin.uKMn.l several oltUc cum.aunitks huvc asserted t hur chun in the ^•>^7'' ';-''';')
nuht. Tl.c f.ut I,, that each comiuunity n.iKht ilo..l.tl< .s .on. inon. y, aiul ..r.kr ii r
be tak.n u.lhiu it.oun lildc urr.K^ry ; but a. il wculcl ..ot ,,av, m thc^.tlar pari^. ur
riRht i^ nu rclv ..o.ninal. A.crclin.r to the Kcutal consent ol |hc three ''••'jA';^ ;;»'';
, dvikKe i. ve;u.d in the tou'n ofC.oire, i., the l.ishoi., and n. th.- k.ron ot I'. '»^'*- -^ ' •
R'o monev is. houevu', struck in duCrisous, ex^apm.^a sma I c<n.l-r con. rail N n:>.
gcr. whir.'hi, su.ucu hat Uss than a hallpennj. The gold and silver current nulr: eoun
try is chietiy Austrian and I lench.
From the best iiifonnation which I have been able to colled, the population ol Wv
Oriions ma»- !je thus estimated :
Tlic dr.iy Li'ii^ruf cejiituiiis
Lt.iL'uu ot T«u Jurisdiiii'iiis
54,001) ■■■^"'>
I 5,000
yH,')f)o
II ue add 87,Of«>, the number of inliabitants in the Valtelmc, Chiavcnna, and Bo.,
mm. die whole population ol" die Cirisons, and the subject coimtr.es, wi aniount to onl'.
)S5,0U() .souls ; and, allouing lor deficiencies, will scarcely exceed i,U(),(XK).
LK'ITEK LXXXVIII.
Comtncrrc of t/w Criions. . . . Canal of the . Vhfa.
THE commerce of the Orisons is extremely eont.-acted ; the only exivjrts (exclusivt
of dmse from the subject provinces) beiu!- cheese a.ul ealile. They import ^rain. nee
salt and silk stufis, from Milan; grain from Suabia and 'I'yrol ; salt Irom 1 yrol and
Biv'aria line clodi, ch.ellv Knt^lisli, F.ench, and Silesian, dirou-h (iermany : hue Imen
and muslins from SwiucVland. As he only manufacture throughout the wnolc counii >
is that of cotton established at Coirc, it is evident that the balance of tiade must turn coii-
siderablv against then.. Tluy are enabled to support this deficiency by means ol ih.
estates which the Orison., possess in die subject provinces, by the sums which die ;n).
vcrnors draw from diose provinces, l)y public and prlvaU; pensions from I ranee and
Austria, by money saved in foreign services, and by the dniies upon the merchandise
passing through their territories. r i • r •.• •
As most of the Orison peasants weave cloth and linen for die use of their lami les, ii
v.ould be no dilHcult undertaking to introduce manufactures in dilKrent parts, linl in
these little republics a strange prejudice prevails agaiiist eommi-rce, and the project ol
esiublishing manufactures is opposed by many leading men (jf the country. It u dilli-
cult to discover the occasion ol these illiberal pri.iciples ; it has Ijeeii imputed to a sus
nicion, that if die people should become opnlent b\ eomuKrce, they would be less op -n
to inlluence, and the jjowerlul famiiics, who now direct the public atVair^,, would lose
their ascendancy, lit sides these reasons, which are of toiuKlicatea nature to Ijc openl;,
acknoul'-dged,'otlur motives of a more generous complexion have been assigned.
The advocates lor limiting eommeree assert, that as the ti'ue ri(.hes of every eountiy
consist in die produce of agriculture, all occupati<-ns, which draw the allenliun ol th,
people from that great obj^ ci, are detrimental to the ge neral good of s-jciety : m [wa
' Aii'l I Ijclh vf ill tlir J)bu' ol' Disriitis.
(1 1! 2
')7 >
<:0\r.'5 IHAVFI.a IN OWITZEIllANi:),
statt'H |);irll( iilarl}', luannfa', lures tend to tiicrvatc the inhahilants, to introduce luxury,
to dipnss the spirit on'rcxdoin, and to destroy the j^neral simplicity of manners.
'I'licsr arj^'unurits, however spicious in .ippeannue, will prf)vi; (allacious upon mature
<onsi(K ration. II' in a (ountry, which snhbists ehiilly hy ;ij;tiv:ulturc, miinuhicturcs arc
pnrsiii (I to till toi;)! neglect ol husbandry, they then hecotnc ditrimental ; hut this is sel-
<lom the case; lor, by avidingto the general consumption, manul.ielurcs usually tend to
jiK rcasf, in.tend of diminishing tlie produce of the earth. Such have been the ffi cts
in l!ie mountains of Neuchatel, where the forests have been cleared, and the country
eonvertid into pasture, or sou n with grain. Manufactures and commerce arc still far-
ther serviee.ible in augmenting tht nuniber of inhabitants, which form the true richisof
a ( nuntry. For u he never constant opportunities of employing a number of men occur,
r'lildrcn w ill not be a burden to the peasants, and population will increase ; which cannot
h.ippen in districts afl'urding liiile employment,
Wh
ilh ri.si)e( t to the (Irisons in particular, their territory being entirely mountainous,
\\\\\ notjiild .sntliciint produce for interior consumption, consecpiently some means of
supplying the di liciency must be adopted. Now surely it would be far more honoura-
ble to pursue commerce, even if attended with some unavoidable inconveniences, than
t'» depend for subsistence on foreign subsidies, to oppress w xhaust the subject pro-
\ inces, and to exhibit a regular system of venality, which almo ,l pervades the whole mass
of people.
Neither docs the establishment of tnanufactures tend to enervate the inhabitants, and
diminish the spirit of freedom. In fact, the manufactures in these dcmocratical states
are by no means similar to those introduced into large towns, where numbers of indivi-
duals are collected in the same spot ; on the contrary, the work is divided, and distri-
l)uted among the peasants, who, with their wives and children, weave the cloth at home.
IJy this method they preserve (as 1 had occasion to remark in die canton of Appenzel)
their original simplicity of maimers, and maintain the spirit of freedom, even to a greater
degree, than in those parts where there is no conitnerce. Examples are not wanting
among the Grisons themselves : the natives of Upper Kngadina, who are so much inclin-
•.'d to trade, are in reality more free and Icbs influenced than the people of the other com-
luunities ; nor is it observed, that the inhabitants of the Valley of Pretigau have become
more enervated, since they have been employed in preparing cotton for the manufactory
of Coire. In fact, that kind of occupation does not always take the peasants from more
active emi)loyments. In summer, they are at leisure to cultivate the earth, while their
wives anel children attend principally to the manufactures ; during the long winters,
which last in these Alpine regions for six months without intermission, agriculture is ne-
cessarily suspended, and these: occupations succeed the more lab(;rious exertions of the
iield.
As the principal commerce of the Grisons and the subject prr)vinces is carried on
across the lake of Comowith Milan, I shall give an account of the inland navigation,
which has been lately established for the purpose of facilitating that coiiimetce ; the scve-
lal parts of which I had the curiosity to visit.
'i'he water communication between the country of the Grisons and Milan is formed by
die lake of Como, by its brarich the lake of Lecco, by the Adda, by the canals of the
Adda and Trezzo.
The canal of Trezzo, called also Canalie della Marlesana, begins at Trezzo, situated
e)n the Adda, and is carried to Milan. This cut, which is 24 miles in kngdi, com-
nunced in 1457, under the reign of Francis Sforza, and completed in 14G0, did not
;it iirst serve lor Itie jnirpose of navigation more than two days in the week ; being prin-
cipiUly ui.vd lor overllowing the low grounds with water, necessary for the cultivation of
.\SU I.N INK roi.N)RV ()l lltK CK150N2.
•>7.»
|iry.
arc
Id to
hcts
|i\try
far.
s of
tr.iir,
Itinot
lOlIS,
IS of
I ira-
thun
pro.
mass
rice. In IITr), lUiimf^ilic adiniiiiitr.iiionof thtdiikc nf Abcrr|uirfjijr, Spanish (,'o\k nun
ol' Milan, the ( iit was iiilarfj;i d, and the body of water ho much inrri astd as lo athnii
the passajri of v« ss( Is cNtry daj.
Still, houcvti, ihr Adda uas not navij^ablc during the whole way iKtwicn the l.ikr
of Lcccu and Trcz/.o; but forimd u succession of cataracts for ihc space of u mile.
To obviate this inconvenience, a cajial was projected, in 1519, but no part was carried
into execution, excepting a niole, which was thrown across the Adda. In 1/591 the
work was undertaken, and the canal eomplettd in 1599. Hut the stream of the Adda
was no sooner admittid into the cut, than the banks broke down, for so considi rabh
a way, as to render all repairs impracticable. This breach, generally imputid to the
violence of the current, was principally owing to the nature of the rock, in which the
cut wascxcavated, and lo an err(»r in the original j)Ian. The rock is a composition ol
gravel and sand or a s|)ccie.s of pudding-stone, of loose texture and uneoual solidity;
and as the cut was made too near the precipice, which overhangs tht Adda, that part
of the rock which formed the bank «»f the canal was not sullicientl) strong to support the
weight of water.
I'ron) that time the canal was considered im imjjrartieable work, atid abandoned un-
til a kw years ago it was again undertaken by or(ler of the emperor Joseph the Second,
and carried on with such expedition, as to be finished w iihin the space of three years.
The canal is about a mile in length, and is excavated in the rock which forms the
precipitous banks of the Adda. In some places the rock has been hollowed to the depth
of 100 fe< t, and the breadth of 200. 'I'hc fall of water, which is etpial to the peip :n-
dicular height of abcut 80 feet is broken by six sluices: and the water ib supplied by
the stream of the Adda ; the breadth of the canal is 70 feet.
The expence has already amounted to near 100,0001. The engineers, however,
seem to have fallen into the same error which attended the original plan, by forming the
cut too near the precipice. In const (picncc of this inadvertence, the water lately forced
down the banks of the canal; and the damage was not repaired without much difll-
culty and considerable expence. Notwithstanding the precaution of letting out the su-
perfluous water by floodgates, there is reason to apprehend, that these breaches will bt
frequent ; and that the recent labours may be rendered as ineflectual as those of the
Spaniards.
But should the canal continue in its present state, and the n.. vig.ition not be interrupt cl ,
the advantages will hardly compensate the expence of makiir; and keepiug it in rv.p,»ir.
The commerce between the Grisons and Milan is extrt melv contracted, and il all th"
merchandise which passes was conveyed along the canals, the tolls and duties would be
very inadequate to the expence.
The navigation, however, from the lake of Como to Milan is attetided with many
difficuliies, and the greater part of the merchandise is sent by land, as the most commo
dious and less hazardous way. The current of the Adda is so rapid, that the vessels
cannot be towed up without great expence and delay, and is in some parts so exlremely
dangerous, that b(-ats are not unfrefjuenlly overset. The only persons, therelbre, who
forward tlu Ir mcnicmdise along the .\dda and the canals to the lake of Lecco are the
contractors, wIuj furnish the (Irisons with corn and salt, and who are compelled by the;
government ol Milan to smd those commodities by water. Wh ii it is considered that
Milan receives from the Grisons only jjlanks, stones for building, and coiils, but s^up-
plies them w iili corn, rice, and salt ; the articles of export evidently exceed those ol
import, and tiic navigation from Milan to the lake of Como is of more consecjuenct
than that from the bke of Como to Milan. The canal of the Adda, therefore, w b'-'
OT
9li
i'0'..Ka I'l'Av'r.:.- IN -wM.a. Ill \N kj.
huH only l.ii-ilitulrd the inluul iuvi^;iiion fn^m tlu" Cirisons to MA n, .md ti-d irom Mi-
|,IM to tl»( (iriM)r.s, tliniinh a work olixtn-mc (hthciiliy, and rilMMjiieliii|i; ,;n ally to ilu
lioiioor of ilii Sovonij^n uho «c)im»lt.ttd it, will scarcely produce ad\.u»ti);xh ((jiial tr
its original co*-! and lrimKi\t repairs.*
IJ/ITKU lAXXIX.
.•It/iatifrs nf the (imnni with ttie <Swtsi ('<ntton.u.../'>tinrc....t''ctucc...ahrl tlir h'Vt.Xf nf
Austria.
Tin', alliaiict s nl' the (irisnns wid» fori.iKU powi rs come next iiiulrr ronsidt ration.
The Thn*' Liairuts, though ahvavs tstu nud allii s of rlic .S\vi>,s, yctaunoi, siriill\
-jvakiiiic, in conl. iUra(y uith all tin- ( aiitous. In M'.)7 thr dray I.ta^nf, and in ih(
loljiminl,' M.ir liir 1-' anuc oj (l.»d\ IIoom, intcr«.il into a piTlx tnal treaty with Zuric,
Luftrii, Uri, S. hwcitis, UndLrwahKn, '/a\\:, and tilariis. Alrlioiif;h tin lAa^'iu ol
'I'tn JiirisdirtioMs was not imlntlid in ihr Mnic treaty. >et it was altirw.irds declared
(IkH, in eonsefjni nee ol its conmu lion willi the other tuo kaj^'iies, it shonid he entitled
to tin. same assistance and ^oud olli( a s. The Threi; Leaf^nes are in close ullianec with
Hu-n and /nric, to whosj im diiition they have IVennuitly had irconrsc in points ol
disaf^rcenunt. IJy these ire.iiit s lIu (liison^ are c.ilted alius oi the Swiss, and in con
secpience of a reqnesi IVoin die puiicnlir cantons, with which they are united, onf^ht,
ill case of inv.isioii or rel)eUi(jn, to he suppli( d with ^alccours from the Swiss repiihlics.
The (irisons contraeted the first alliance with France in ir»0!), durinii; tlii reign ol
Louis the TwtU'th, and in l.'»l<') were conij-rised in the treaty ol' pirpetu il peace hctween
I'r.incis llie I'irsl and the lidvdic hody. Since that period thi y have, as occasion of.
icred, renewed dieir private conlideni^y with the kiiif^sol France ; hni where not com-
prehcnded in die Lite treaty ol" S(jluire, conckuhd between Lonis the Si.\teeiith and
the other st:ites of Switzerland. The kinij ol France maintains an envoy in this
oonntry, and has iwodrison re^rimciits in his service.
In 1707 a treaty was lormed betwein the (Irisons on the one side, queen Anne and
die Unitvd Provinces on the other, for permittinu; the free passai^^' of troops marching
nitolt.ily. This is the f. Illy alliance b) whieh the Ciiisoiis, as a particular state, are con-
nccled with Knt>;land. Our court formerly hud a minister in die country ; but for some
lime the Fn^^lish envoy to the Swiss cantons resident at Bern, has transacted business
with this reput>!ii:.
The Wiietiaiis, for the purpose of procuring die free passage of the V'alteline, h;ul
often sf)licited an alliance with the (Irisons ; but iheir projects were always defeated by
the influence of the Spanish monarch, who possessed the Milanese; nor were they able
to accomplish tluir design, uiuil the Spanish biaiieli of the house of Austria became
extinct in the pi rson of CliiiKs the Seu)i:d. Soon after diat event, when Milan was
the object <jf eoiiteiuion between the emperor and die French, the V'enetians (jbtaiiied
die assent of the (irisons to a treaty of aHi.uice oil'eiisive and defensive, which was rati-
fied at Coiie the 1 7di of D^ c mlu r ITOf.. iiy this treaty it was siipnlatid, among-
odier artiiks on the side of tin N'eneiiaiis, to pay an annual pension of 711 Sp;;nish
doubloons, and tohirnish the (iii^jus, in time of war, wiiha thousand Venetian dncats
per monlh; in ixluni, the (iiisons agreed lo ptrmil the passage of the Venelian troops
*Tiiu curidus riMilt r is ri'lV rn.il lo the iihhf I'lia's aciouiit of tlw ( .iiiiils of Uu: .Xdi'ii. and 'I'l' •//m,
and of ^\\>'' ollu r u ivi;;;.l;lc c.ai.Ji in il.f Milui.csc. See IVnili i'risi Oi)t r.i, lym. ii. Dti C.iu.u Navi
i;\ibili di LomLiLirdi.i, ()Uai"lo, lib. ii. cip. J, 4, i% 6.
AS'I. in rifi, (lU'StUY tt "t I .UTKOV!
Ik
if
'^
'hroii^'li tfi< N'iilli liiK , !iii(l to make a ro.ul tcidiMp; froiu MotlM^tio o\cr tlu' iii'Miittiiti
'tl Si. M.iil iiiio i]i( \ I lull. Ill tLiri'orii s, l)j whit h a'tonMiiddvlimt nurt liimlisr iiii;'ltl
U' ('uiiM\*(l to ;iik1 Ifiii \ uiiiL t)) (Wrni.iii) uithout f.'<)jtl^' ihruii^li ilu 'i uot.
'I'liis (Kill}, (-(iiiilmUd lor tututy ytar**. \\;\s to (ontimu in foric lor ilic >.tiitc itildi
tidii.il |iiri()d, mill ss OIK frt iIk cntr;.' tinp |Mrti(s should wididrau iKliiix the i \|>ir,i
tioii oi iIk I'll 't til hi; hut llioii|;li < h'.iiiud 1)^ tlu \'«iiitiaiis uiili itiiu li trotiliJL and
esjKiKt, it w.,', not l"i»;.^ riiUilUd !>} liilur ol the lu^oiiatin^' poui in. In a liw jiai>>
the ViiKiiaiis oiiiiiti'd tin |Ki\n)i'i)t f)l tot annual pension, and die (irisons lu^licivd
to ia.ik( tlu riiad <iv(i' die inoinitatn of St. .NIarL 'I'Ik t\^o ri imMics, lio\\(Vii', con.
tiniad ii|)oii ii'*'nis of ainit\ ; and tlit. WiKti.iiis, suiii ifitr ilu i xi/iiaiinn ol'tli' loiiy
Mats, (lisirnnN ol rt-iuw iii^ tin tn n\, (dlind lo dischai^r tlu arrears ol iIh |i nsi<in
ir till.' (irisoiis would o|K.-ii the |)i'o|ioMd coinniiinicaiion oMrtlit tuoiintain ol' St. Mark.
For this |»iii|)iise :.ii i n\o\ was di'-j-U Ik d to tin (lrisf)p> in 1 V'>'', and n-) pruiiiisis wire
spand to pminote tin nt'^oti.ilioii : it laiK d, IioutMr, through the iiii.tii ik c of the
tni[»nss ol (iciinaiiy. 'I'iie (irihoiis njeitid tlir proposuls o| N'eniee, I'tuI still I'lirthtr
nlieii.ited that ripiiltiit: l>} the eai itiilatioii of .Milan. 'Mk' Wiutians, incdised hy thin
t:oMdiiit, hinisliv d tin (liisoiis \vlif)Wiri' sittkd uiihin tlu ii ii iriiorics, .isul all <oiinei>
(ion is iu)\v iiiieirniiitd In iw{ ( ii iIk two ri pnhlii s.
The treaties with the house of Austria, as soven ij^ns of the Milaia se, reiuaiu to lu
coMsideii d. It is not my purpose to nuntion any trv-alies whirh ih • (Iri'.ons crMitraeted
^vith tlu dukes ol .Milan ol the housr ol Sloi/a, or those by which I'hilip ihr Sei ond
and his siiciassors aikuouled^t (I llair claim to tla N .illiliiic, ChiaviiuKi and Morniiit ;
hnl 1 shall \n\>;in with the celehratid alliance, or, as it is called, the Capiiulaiion of Mi-
hin in 1<).>'.'; Ikc.iusi it suj)erst(led all others, and c^tahlisheil that close coinuction he.
tween tlu Cliisons and the house (jI .\ustria, which has sime cunlinued with litiK in.
terriiption.
The lollouiiij.^ are the priiu:i|)alarliilcs in this ca|)itul ition, r.fjiicludcd hetwctn IMiiJiji
the I''ourth, kin;; ol'Sp-iin, as dnki' ol" .\ti!;in, ami the 'rinvc Leai^aas: An Ik rcdit.ir;,'
and perpetual peace hciwecu the two tontr.'.ctiii;; powers. W'etkis I'tlis to Ijc cslah
lisliid in tlu nii^hbouring towns ol' the Milam sc, in which the (liison.s may ptnchast
jrrain, and also enjoy a IVie trade, lljr the pui-j)os«.' of imiiorlintij and ex|)(iitin}>' all kiiuls
olnurehaiidise and arms, on paying onl} tlu adiisl'inud duties. A free p:issa^';(' throiu.'Ii
the territories ol' the Clrisons lor tlu Spiinish troojis, with a rcsf r\c, that no more litai
a companj ol" 150 inlantry, and a troop ol' M cmx alr\ shall march through the same day.
J'ree passai^e ol' the ClriMai troops throiij;h the Milam sc, iijion cijiidition th.it ihev du
not march air.iinst the allies ol Spain, and that in« le than two <jr three companies do
not pass at one time. 'I'lu kins^^ may levy at his own ixpence, in eases of iiecissitv,
a body of troops not exceeding (iOOO nor less than 2000, lor his service ag.iiiist all his
tnemies, exce|;t the conl'i. derates of the (irisons, and particula; ly the repui)lic of W-
nice. All Giison trooj)s in the service of any st.ite or sovereii^ii, intiiulin}; t.) ;.Uack
the territories of the kinj;- ol Siiain, shall lu imnu diately recalled; and ail (dlicers and
s'jldieris, wljo enroll tluinsilvcs in any ff)iii|^ii .service, shall be lorbidden to uivade his
maji sIn's leiritorits. II Uk Ciiisons should be eiii^ai^td in war, the kiiir2,*obiiocs himself
to fuinish, within fifteen days, 2000 mfaniry and -200 cavalry ; but if iluy prefer ii.ssis
tance in money, tu pa}- 100 sciidi* per month as lonf>; as the war lasts; also to send
ii\to llu' country of Chia\enna six pieces of canipai^fu artillery with amunition fjutli
eieiit for the service of war. No troojjs shall be allowed to pass ihrouv^Ii the .ich-jvec
tlvc territories to the ilibadv anta,;^e of the two contracting parties
' .\ ^liluiiLSC sci;(!o T^ to .'.bci/ 4s. »«!
?/r«
; oMi's in.wELi in sv;n>5ii ui,am\
To eacli Lciiguc the king promises an amuial pojTiion of 1500 sciidj, nud also to pay
for the education of two students from each kaj'juc at P.. via or Milan, bi sides a dona
tion of sixty sciidi to each student.
All ancient alliances with any other powers are to remain in force on l)Olh sides,
particularly the treaty hetueen the Orisons and France ; they promise, however, not
to renew it in case of a rupture between the two crowns ; and, if renewed, to declart;
at the same time that ii is to be suspended during such a rupture, and to contract no
alliance w ith any foreign power to the prejudice of this perpetual prace. Should eithei
party be attacked, the other, without any regard to the stipulations in luvour of theit
ancient allies, is bound to give assistance against such invasion, excepting however on his
majesty's ptirt, the Clerman branch of the house of Austria; if that house should en
gage in war wiili the Orisons, for the maintenance of its rights in the territory of the
Orisons.
The causes which gave rise to this capitulation, as well as the articles respecting the
Valleline, having been already relatid;' it will be necessary only to remark, that the
Si)aniards guaranteed to the Orisons the possession of their subject provinces, and to
the subjects the conlirmation of their privileges. In case of dissension between the Ori-
sons and their subjects, the dispute is to be referred to the mediation of the king ot
Spain.
This treaty, signed at Milan on the od of September 1639, by the marquis dc Legnes,
governor of Milan, on the part of the Sp;.nish king, and on the other by the deputies
of the Three Leagues, was preserved inviolate, and a good understanding maintained
between the contracting powers, until the extinction of the Spanish branch of the
house of Austria in the person of Charles the Second. During the war of the sue
cession, which followed his death, die Milanese frequently (hanged masters, until it
was secured to the emperor Charles i. Sixth by the peace of Utrecht. Charles had
no sooner esiablishcd his power in his new dominions, tlivn he turned his attention to
die Orisons, and prevailed upon them to renew the capitulation of Milan. One of the
principal arguments which gave success to his negotiation was the promise, not only oi
continuing the annual pension, but even of discharging the arrears, which amounted te
twenty-nine payments.
This new treaty, in which the German branch of the house of Austria succeeded to the
Spanish, was concluded on the i2iih of October 1726, by count Daun, governor of
^lilan, in the name of Charles the Si..»h and the deputies of the Three Leagues. It
confirmed and ratified the ancient c; jHtnlnMon of 1639, with a few modifications and
additions, of which the principal are ; The duties upon corn purchased by the Orisons
in the Milanese are lowered two thirds. The tenth article in the first treaty, by which
all Orison troops in the service of any state designing to attack the territories of the
house of Austria are subject to immediate recall, is annulled; and the Orisons arc free
to serve any foreign prince in time of war without incnr'*ing the breach of this capitula-
tion. The number of students educated at the cxpence of the emperor is increased
to twelve.
On the 8th of February 1763, this hereditary league was renewed by count Firmiui,
in the name of the empress of Oei many us sov. reign ol Milan, and the deputies of the
Three Leagues. By this treaty the capitulations of 1639 and 1726 are ratified, and
serve as the basis of the present union ; they are also augmented by the folio wuig
articles :
• See Letter 75
\su IN run <- (' K- :< \ :: \ m ijil n iusok;^. ".
Tht: oniptvs^ rcnoiincch nil ri;j;'lit to the iuke ol' Chiavcnrui, tDgcthor wiiiui >!ii:ill por
lion of llu' adj iccnt tci-ritory, aiicl cedes ilum in |Hrpctnit}- tntlic (Irisnii' 'i'litj lirnif^
Ix'tvvccn llie Alilanesf; and tlie territory ol'ilie Grisons arr ariuratily fiM'i.
In rctuni lor this cession, the Grisons agree to erect no rurtincations upon the e.cd ri
territory, impose no n< w taxes upon the transport of nicrclKuulise, makf" no new roa(K.
and, acordinj;- to the former capitnlation, no troops sliall be. permitu.d to pass to tli'
prejudice; of llu.' state of Milan.
The empress promise-, to ol)tain from the Pope an abolition of s* veral eeclesiasiiea,
priviloi^es in tlic Valtelinc, Ijighly detrimental to society ; to prevent th(,' l)i-.!v)p of Conin
from granting eoelesiastieal immunities to laymen, whoassinne tlu. clerical dress ; also tr,
correct sevcia! other abuses, which render the clerg} of the Wilteline i idependciit ol
secular authority, and in civil and criminal causes only amenable to the I'ishop of Como
Tin.' weekl} fairs lor the j-)!'-. base of grain arc abolished; and in tlu ir stead the houic
of Austria agrees to suppl) die Griaon'S with a certain quantity for tlieUiselves and fot
the subject countries, according to the current price of corn in the MilaiK se. The du
ties upon merchandise exported from the Milanese arc lowered, and the customs both
in that country anrl in the territory of the Grisons are established upon • permanen'
footing ; Inr which purpose a table of the dutie.~> is annexed to the treaty.
At present the house of Austria directs all the atlairs of the Grisons with the most
unbounded authority. That jjowcr has acfjuired this sway by regularly discharging the
public pensions, by holding t!ie leading members of the diet in its pay. by being a gua-
rantee of the Wilteline, and mediator in all tiie disputes between th." Grisons and thei;
subjects.'"
LETTER XC.
Languages of the Griso}is....Parfiridar/// the nomamli..,Jts antiquity. ,..Ongin....anr
two principal Dialects.
THE languages of the Grisons are the Italian, German, and Ilomansh, The Ita
lian, which is a jargo,, similar to the Milanese dialect, is spoken hx the inhabitants o!
Preg;.lia and Puschiavo, and in the vallies of Masox and Calanca.
The German is spoken throughout the whole league of the Ten Jurisdictions, a few
villages excepted; in the League of God's House, at Avers, Coire, and the fonr vih
laecs; and in the Gray League, at Splugcn, Cepina, and other villages of the Rliein-
wald, at \^il;s, in the valley of St. Pedro, at Tusis, Keichenau, Feldsperp-, Tamins,
Meyerhof, \'efsam, and Valendros. "^
Some (;f the earliest and most authentic writers upon the Grisons have asserted, thai
the natives of the Kheinwald speak a Celtic idiom, a language neither German or Ro-
mansh, but more siniiL,r to the German; aithuu-h tluy are entirely surroundei! !>y
people of a diHinnt tongue, and are neidur eoniij-u'us, nor have anv great intercourse
widi the Grrnian inliabitants. From diis remarkable circumstance they are led to
conjecture, that tlu- natives of the Rheinwald are desc. tKled from the Lepontii, a Celtic
nation, and considirLd as the original inhabitants (.;' this country before the influx of
the Tuscans; and they ground the proofs of this assertion upon the numerous name:^
• This in'imalc coniRciioii with iho Ikjusc of Aii*tii., pros- rvcd thi- (irisoiis \u,m tho siibiuinitiui,
oxpcrifiic.d hy ihe (,t|u 1- suites ol Suit/.i rkuid, aiul tlu- s<-cin-itv of its fircdom tU pi-iuls sulch ''•- 'h
strciv<t!i ot lluu pdWLTtc jjiotci! tiu'iii tidiuthf anus uC l'r;uu:c'
VOL. V. C, ,
1
lOXK o flliWEI.R TV S>^TT/-rnT. .V\I\
of many rastks which sci-ni to he (iTivod from u * CVltic or German orii^in. This hy
pothc'sis, hfjwcvi r, ns's njjDii a wroiii; I) isis, uiitl is i;roiin,1i(l upon two mistikts. For,
in xhc first pluc, the I iiii^u;iji;t (if ihi' UhL-iiuvald is Gcrmui; secondl}, althoui^h the
inha!)it,int^, oi' iliis district art imini di;itely surrounded l)\ persons speaHnt^ the It.iliau
and H'im\!i^h, yet ihtyarc within h;ili a day's jo) .,ey of R')ne;)}j^lia, Tusis, and Furste-
inu, where (Vnmii is die coninion liniguaj^c. 'i is nvm. prob.ible, there f)re, th it the
Rheiiiw.Jd uas jh(m ted l>y a Grrniin colony, which penetrated into these ngicMis in the
dirker ap,( s, when the Gtrni;ins issued l.om their fores's, and sjiread themselves over
piirt of Fairopc. With respect to the Gt > man names of castles and tow ns wc may reinark,
ihit m.iny o'" them arc corrupted from the llomansh, tliit fjtiiers hive l)een adopted in
liter times ; and, as a j)roof tli :t the Romansli is more ancient in tins eoimtry than the
Gtrman, the t^reater p.irt of tlu' mountains, vallies. :ind oldest castles, hive Homansh
ap|)i ILtinns, <. ven in the districts inhabited by the (jrermiins.f
This eirrumsl;in(e leads me tothe consideration of the Hlieiinn, orasit is more com*
moldy cjlied the | Romansh, which is the vernacular tongue nmonii^ the grealer part of
the Grisons ; a lanj^uai^a' in former times more extensively dilhised than at present, being
-poken at Coire and tlie adjacent districts, and thiouj^h the Tyrol, as far as Inspruck,
1 h>;d thesTood lorinne to meet with a German translatimi of I'lanta's excellent Trea-
tise upon die Uomansh of the Grisons of which I had bef ire seen the original in the
Phihjsophical Transactions for 1775. The perusal of this treatise firirt excited my in-
(luirics •, and although I am obliircd to difit r from the ingenious autlior in a fi w in-
stances; yet Ihe)ld myself indebted to him, for having greatly facilitated my researcli-
cs, Lud for a more accurate knowledge of the subject than I could otherwise have ob-
tained.
The Romansh of this country is divided into two principal dialects, the one spoken
in the Gray League, and die other in that of God's House. These dialects, although
materially varying as to pronunciation and orthography, arc yet sufficiently similar in
the general arrvingement and expressions to be coinprised within the same inquiry.
It must always b. extremely difficult to trace the origin of any language ; for ety-
mologists are too apt to build a favourite system, by mistaking a partial iV)r a general
resemblance ; and finding a few similar exiwessions in two languages, which in other
respects are esse, rialiy ditilrent, conclude them to be derived from the same stock.
The Grison writers, howe\er, pretend, that th«: proofs of the antiquity and origin of
their language are too well founded to admit of Uic least douljt. They assert that the
Rhetian tongue is derived from tlie Latin, or from a dialejt of the Latin ; and the ar-
guments uj)on whicli they ground their, assertion may Ije reduced to three principal
heads. L 'J'he liistory of tlie country ; 2. The names of places uiiich have evidently
a Latin origin ; 3. Its similarity tothe Latin, and to other languages derived mediately
w immediately from the Latin.
• Cluvfiius and otlicr aiuhors huvc vrrrjiicoiisly Ruppotjcil ilic Golliic Mid Cultic nations to be ti'.t
sciint; luitlihiir luiiii;ii.iu:c to huvc given rise to lUc 't'cuioiiic or Cleniian: biit iho U'luiicd iiiiiisUiior (Ur,
Percy, iiishop of Dromorc) ol' Mallet's Noitherii Aiuiciuiiies, luis tslablished, biyuiK) ;i (loul)t, ih.it
llie Celtic and (iothic nations wtTc originally diiVi rent, and that there was not the least alhnity Ix.-twcen
Ihe laiii;uai:;es ; the Celtic havins^ i^iven rise to the old (iallic, liritish, Erse, Stc. iic. and the UiUnic
to the (iernian. See Translator's Preiace to Mallei's Nortliern Aiiticiuiti^s.
t The (icriuap names iidopted from the Uomansh are very numerous ; such asCh\ir from Curia oi
Coire, Hphigcn ci Sp'. lui^a, Cepina, Tusis or Tossan, Davos, I'reti^ail or Riuitujona, Custels, kc.
The lollowinij; (ierntaii names are eviilently ;»1 a very late date : Furstenau, FurstenbMri^, Ilalden-
ttin, Lichtrnstein, lleitizei.bcri;, lleiclunau, Rheinwald, Sec. as will easily be allowed by any one
'jnversant in that tongue.
\ It is lalltd by the li.ai'.i Aruniaunsh, Rumaunsch, Rcmansch, Lingua Romanschi-
\SU IS THE COUNIRY OF i II F. (;HIS0\3.
('79
1. The history oi" the coiii\try. Livy, who has i^nvc-ii the canie.st aecnimt of tlicse
Alps, informs us, that, under the reign <>[' Tarquinib Triscus, a eolony ot '1 useans,
driven from Lomburdy hy the Gauls, siiiUd in liiese tnouiitainoiis rei^ions; and tlu
same historian adds, tli'ut iii his time die Rhetians, who were descended Irom these Hrst
colonists, still retained some trac.es of the 'I'usean pronurciatitju, although vitiated by
lap.se of lime and change of situation.
Since that period, \ve have no positive documents of ai'.y subsequent emigration .
Dlthough it is probable, that ui)on many occasions in which the Italians (juitted their
country, they retired to diese Alps, and mixed with the natives. In some of diese e.K-
cursions it is likely, that the inhabitants of Latium, or others, who s[)oke the Latin, ov
at least a dialect of that tongue, which must have had a considerable alTmity to the
Tuscan, established themselves in these regions; but whether this settlenicnt hap
pcned during the invasion of Hannibal, or at any subsequent period, cannot be exactly
ascertained.
About the time of the Ccesars, Rhetiu became an object cjf Roman conciuest ; and
frequent expeditions were made into these parts, until the whole country was reduced
to II Roman province, and governed by a prcetor resident at Coire. During that pe-
riod, many Roman familie' established themselves in these Alps, and diflused the know-
ledge of their language. On the deeliue of the R<nTian power, Rlietia came under tlie
dominion of the Franks, a German nation ; who introduced their own tongue into
many places, and in others gave a new turn and modification to die Latm, by the addi
tion of auxiliary verbs, and by the frequent use of the articles.
2. The second proof of the derivation ot the Romansh from the Latin, rests upon the
numerous names of mountains, rivers, towns, and castles, w^hich evidently seem to have
a Roman origin. To use the words of the ecclesiastical historian,*- whom I have so
often quoted, "Persons versed in classic anti(|uity, who travel among the Grisons, will,
from die frequency of Latin appellations, conceive that they are passing through La
tium, Etruria, and Campania. They will trace the ancient names iVrdeates, Vettones,
Sentinates, Samnitcs, in Ardets, Vettan, Sent, and Samnum. They will meet with
mount Umbria, the river Albula, die towns Antium, Susa, Lavinium, Tutium, Seaptia.
Silium, Cernetia, and many odiers ; derivations so plain and so freciuently occurring,
evidently certify their origin."
3. The alUnity of the Romansh, as well to the Latin as to the languages immediately
derived from the Latin.
First, a collateral argument in favour of its derivation from the Latin may be deduced
from die word Romansh, the general appellation of the language, and the particulai*
dialect of Kngadina, called Ladin ; both these terms luuing in efteet the same significa-
tion, Ladin f and Roman being synonymous. But withi)ut insisting (oo much on tliis
conjecture, we need only refer to a book writtcii in the (irisou tongue, to perceive the
general aftinity of its vocabulary to that of the Latin. In this eomparibon, however,
great allowance must be made for the variation which niu.-.t luive taken place between a
mother tongue, us written in tlie best authors, i.nd its oHVpring, which for many cen
turies was merely colloquial, and not only been occasionally iniermixed with odier lyn
* Apona, Hist. i. p. 6.
t L.iliu and Ladin are the same wonls, only dUTcrently pronounced ; foi it nmsi 1)( c\ ici-iil to ..;,y <,iic
the least conversant with different luni^uai^es, how ofien the I and d are subsiiuited fur each o'.lui'.
Quinlilrm s-.y;-) that the old Romans IVeqncntly wrote at, before lliey had any tixcd ruli;» ul ortlioj^Ta-
5)hy, instead ol a d ; lor Alexander, Alexuntcr.
6 I 2
f),-;0 tone's thavei-s in switzfulan n,
(liu.scs, but has sunVrcd a chans^i" i'l its gciurnl modilication by the admission of the
Cic rni:m s\ max. , ■ i rr • i
Vi t it h\ no iv-ciiiis follows, th;.» the Uunuiiish, allhoiiKh the iindoubiul ollspniij^ ol
thi Latin. 'wi^s d. rived imniKhattlv liom that lant^nai^X', snch as it is Innnd m iht- best
iiuihors, nr i.s (ousis'itd to uritini;- durini; any inricxl of liit; Roman rera ;l)ul ra-
ther, that it owfd its o-igin to thr \ uli;Mr ton-uc, as it was spoken by ihc pcopn, or to
MMHc nrovincial diiiKct'of Itab . In all livint^' ton.u:ufs th( re is i collo(iuuii as udl as a
uritiui laiiruaLa-; f.M- how dilRrnit arc: the Knglish and S^-otlish idioms, and tvai the
dialuts ol'Lancashire and Norfolk"? In France- the Parisian accent vanes essentially
iVom the provineial pronuneiation ; and the several patois ot Prove nee, Lorrain, and
(',;-,()nv, ciinnot be understond without respective jrlossaries. The same cireutn^tancc
I„ev:i;sinCluniaav, where the idioms of the Saxons, Anstnans, and Sualjians, are
seireelv inV llifrible' lo e ich (;ther. That Uns was ecpially die ease with the Latin,
we may colUriV.ot onl) fiom the t^eneral analogy of langnage, but likewise trom the
(esiimonv of the best audiors. • • n r
The orhnu of the Italian and of the odier dialects, which arc derived principally from
A\r Latin, 'is In nnentlv attributed t<. lite invasion of the Goths under Alanc ; when a
new lint^^uaee- \\;'.s introduced thnnighout Itah and liie Roman provinces. But this is
not pre('is( Iv the irnlh ; for these several dialects arose from a corruption, or at least a
variation, iii the primiiive Latin, antecedent to the irruption oi the Cxoths, or even to
the times of the Ca:sars. Italv was occupied by many people originally indepentlcnt :
the Umbri, Osci, Samnites, Linisci, and Piceni, all of whom diHered m dialect and
many in language, from the Romans. But the Romans had no sooner conquered Italy,
-han the laniniage came into general use, though in the provinces it was not nnilorm-
ly pronounc'ed'in the same manner, as the natives of every district varied m their mode
of articulation. . . , , , , i
Cicero mentions several * corruptions of the Latin which he could scarcely conipre.
iiend- and Horace alludes to the people of Canusium, in Gnxcia Magna, as speaking
i mixed language.! Canusium contained, besides the original (ireek natives, many
Inhabitants irom" different parts of Italy who spoke Latin. Hence their language was
a mixture of both (ireek and Latin; but so extremely impure as to give nsc to the
Dioverb, Canusini more bilingnis.
In Italy there must have been manv idioms of this sort, which were lor a long time
unobserved. Tor, w iiile Rome flourished, the language of that capital was the stand-
ardof purit\-, ;aid all other dialects of the Latin were disregarded. Yet, even at Rome
;iself the Latin was corrupted at a very earlv pe riod. Suetonius X relates that Augiis-
us J'requentlv affected to write words as Uiev were pronon.nced, wiUiout anv regard to
urthouraphv,' and to abridge them, bv the change or omission of sj-llables. It this w as
•he MK-ctiee of the sovereign himself, in the puriiy of the Augustan age, and m the
capital we may be assured, that the same custom \\as still more- prevalent among the
-^eople'in the distant pro\ inees, and pariicularly towards the declin. oi die empire.
■ Thus the Latin t(Migue was growing gradually more corrupt, and would, m process
=^f time, have almost totally varied from its i^rimitive puriiy, even had Rome continued
' Anva-T^-l other csampUs 1r- suy^, tlutl ll.e pvopk', iiihU'.ul e.lM'uau iuau', i>roiiuu..cc(l di han':,and
. .'Viacih iiibU'iul of cave ue' cus.
t Cum Pcdibub i-uussLis cxsudct Poplicolu uiiiuc
Cuixiuus, [Kitriis iiUfnuisteTc piitila
Verba I'oi'is nudis, Ctinusiiii more- BiliniJfuis ! _ Lib. i. Sat. x. v. ."0,
!. Non litcv.e, modo sed syllab.ii ijcniuiuit uul prxicru, Comumni'i lu»minum error
Avn IN iJiJ. (•it'Nir. V «»i I II i ..nir.ov:
'.'« i
:() l)i; tht' si.it (jf iiupin.' ; \u it m.i}' In- iiUowtd, ih.ii its cUrliiu' \\as ii;i>l(.iu t1 I"/ lli';
irruption (jlCijiln.
Slioiilcl thc'c rtmarlxs !jt Inunckdon t'.iof, ilie Hdjnaiis must Ii.nf K ft tr.iccs oi' tluii
lan}i;u:i!^».: thnuif^IifMit tlnj ditl'i rmt provinces of their v.ist impia.' ; and ilu' s(\rral dia-
lects (Krirtd Ironj tlu cullotini;;! L itiu, bi fori: tlit v \vi re rclincd and polisliid, must haw
borne a rescnihluncc to each otlur, in sonu places more strikinii^, in others more Taint and
distant. Alih(Hiij;h these di.ilects were in some measure rhaiiifed and mocHlied by the
introduction ol iht tiuihic or (ierman idiotn, which the eonfjutrors Li;radually istaljlislied
throut^hfjut the Rjiuan provinces, jct the same aninil}' must have been stiM (>l)strvL(l ;
djosc chanf^k s aH'ected all the dialects, and consisted not so much in varyinj^' the ex-
pressions, as in giN ini^ a new modification to the general syntax, by the introduction
of the auxiliary verbs, by the in(leelensi(/n of the cases, and by the necessary u^c of j)rc-
j)ositions and articles.
If therefore the Romans cstal)lished ihcmschcs in the country of theClrisonsso eflec-
tually as to introduce their own lauLruuge ; and if that tongue, derived from the toUiujuial
Latin, and still lurihcr modilicd b\ tlie adoption of the (jcrman syntax, is, fr(jm tlie
peculiar situation of the natives, and from not being consisj^ned to wriiing till within
these last two Imndred years, little changed from its pritnitive stati ; we have reason to
expect, that it should bear evident marks of aflmiiy to those ili.iKeis which ha\e origi-
nated from the collo([uial Latin, and were tqualiy modifucl by tlit. Ciernian svntax ; it
follows also, that the resemblance wdl Ik- greater in proportion as we can trace earlier
and ruder spccinuns; this analogy is consonant to experience.
The larliest language, which undoubtedly draws its origin from die colloquinl Latin,
is the ancient Uonuinsh, calKd Lingua Uomana, the mother oi' the French tongue. It
was understocjd in iialy, in the Morea, and at Constantinople, and was imivi rs.iliy dif-
fused throughout the southern |)arts of Europe in the eleventh and twelfth centuries,
Plantahas unqut^stiouably proved that this tongue and the llomansh of the Orisons art
the same language.
We cannot expect, perhaps, the same evident aflinity between the Romansh of tiie
Orisons and any other language now existing; l)ut in comparing it with the Italian, and
particularly some provincial dialects of Italy, tlie Spanish," tin patois ( f I'rovcnce,
Languedoc, tiascony, and Lorraine, wc shall easily perceive, tliat lliiy originated froni
the sanvc stock, wiili the difierencc which time, a variety of pronunciation, arid ih.e mix-
ture of other tongues, must, necessarily occasion in all langiutges. With respect to the
Italian, it is remarkable that the Romansh less resembles the piu'e 'J'uscai: idiom tlian
th.e provincial dia.lects; a circumsiai\ce easilv accounted for. i'he Tu.scun lias hi-ea
gradual)} puntied and refined until it has undergone a considerable change ; and the
provincial duilects being less committed to writing, have not been subject lo such \a-
ria;i ii.
To these languages I ma\- add tliat s^poken by the \'audois inhabiting the v.illlts oi
Piedmont, in thi. sixteenth century, of which Leger has ptinted specimeiiti, the originals
W'hereolarr U'iW extant in the public library at Cambridge ; als(j the Waliachian tongue ,
which IS duivul lioni the Laiin, introduced by the colony of Romans estaljlished by
Tr.ijan on the bank-^ of the Danube. The present natives, descendants of that colonv,
ahh.)U!;h surromided l)y j)eople spLakin-j: the Hungarian and Selavonian, talk a language
in which evicli nt traces ol tiic original L.tln ar- still preserved. It bear-; a genera! re
" In ( onipuliii;!; it uhli tlu; Spuiiish, v.c i .* .t cxdi
nvuiuuiri.aiuii, and art; (.\ Jdi.'ir,.iv dfiived lioiu 'it A:,
\c words \vi : li liuvc ;>. sfro:!'.' iju'.r
0K2
<:0Xr.'5 IRAVEI.S IN SW I I ZKR L AN r»,
sc-ail)l;in(H* to the Italian; and Aporta, who passed some tinu in Ihinpnry. iiirornud mr.
tliat, i\llinfin,<; for llic varii ty of iironuiiriatioii, hi: compn luiuUd ilu iwilivcs, ;iih1 ruiiiul
in tlicir i \pr< ssions no incoiis'ulcruIjK' (lc,u;irt ol aniniiy to the Homansh.
Tlu. Honiaiisli ol ilit (Irisons is (!ivi(U(l nro two piinr.ip;!l diiikcts, that of the (li;iy
Lciij^iu- and the L;idin ol Ijifradina ; for it is iicidlcss to mention st paratcly tht Uomansh
.spoki n in the v;ilk'v:-> ol Munsttr and Surstt.
The two (ruiUcts pirfictly :i(;riT in thi frmnmiatical arranf];emrnt, but differ widely
in the pronnnciaiion and oi thc^r. pliy : dl liie two, the Liidin, bein^; less intermixed
witii loivi|j,n words, is the purist ; the Homansh oi' the Gray Lenj;ne, from the number
of (Wrnnn colonies bluidid with the natives, aluMrnds tiiore in German expressions.
Tin I., dill is divided into die two idi(m\s ol Upper and Lower Kngadina ; die vo-
cai)uliti\ ol both ib die same, with a small variety of accent* and proiuineiation, wliieli
arisis ehitlU horn tin d.ffertiit manner of latienlating the vr,\vtls. The inhabitanls of
Lower l.nijadii.a s|h ak with a 1,'roader ;iee( nt, like the Dorians anioni? the Greeks;
wliik' those of Ujjpc v Kni^adina, like ilu lonians, use a softer pronuneialion. Hence is
derived a variety in the oitliot;raphy ol the two idioms; and books, although perfeetly
nnflc rst(.(d 1 y both, are printed s(,m(. wliat ditVerent in tlie two districts.
Bd'ore llie'intnduetion ol the reformation among the Grisons, the Romansh was
csteenud so barbarous a jargon as lobe thought incapal)le of being reduced to gramma-
tical form.t It is no wondir that the monks, whose interest it was to keep the people
in the giossest ignoiaiiee, should liave fuvoured this opinion ; but it is a matter of aslo.
nisluiKnt, that the most learned among the native laics,, and such intelligent foreigners
as Tsehndi and Suimpf,:{: should have supported a notion so contradictory to common
sense. For althoughit is an evident axiom, that all living tongues may be reduced to
certain principles, and consigned to writing, yet the barbarism of the Roman-!i was so
njs; ersally prevalent, that no attempt was made to write it before the sixteenth century.
Tile person to whom the Grisons owe the first production in their native tongue, was
John de Travers ; a man who, blending the characters of the soldier, politician, scholar,
and divine, performed the most essential services to his country ; bj his \alor ii' arms,
by his skill in negotiation, by cultivating and protecting letters, and by favouring and
assisting the introduction of the reformed religion.
This respectable person, of a noble and opulent family of Zutz in Upper Lngadina,
was born in 1483 : before the eighth year of his age he was sent for his education to
Munich, and lr(jni thence into Transj Ivania. Being there seized with a desire of tra-
velling, he remained absent thirteen years, and returned to Zutz about the 28th year
' To give :iii instuncc of this (lifFi.i'ei\rL'.
Tlif inlwl.iuiius of Lower lai^adinu ptonouiKf tUc a open as wc do in war, while those of Upper
rimadiiiLi ii-^f (' iiisUad ot the a.
Stur Staer
Judical' Judicair
Aniuiiiit " Arma:iit
Our Or
Ctiiiiussa (Miiossa.
t Aporla, lib. ii- p. ■^'-'3. .
t Hlietica liamia iam pcrploxa ot impcdita est, lU sr.rih\ utqucutj VliuU: omius hterae at) anUqmb
conlVcUx;, Lutinc scripix sunt, ct (juas hodie puruiil, (1( ruuiaicc scrihi p\ oi uiaut. Si . 1 bchu(,i Alp.
lUvxi p. ». And, as I'hilip (ialicius cxpiLS,,i'S hiins. if ui his priliu e lo tainprl's l>sallcr : I utc
.hi.. 'iLMioas lan-uaU inc iiuti ais stsel scriit, no cir crcu brick ch'cll s'po.^ss, si ru_y'-r a.syn iv.uiit
brick 1,'lcuraiinh, chL 'Ik haiinpcr dcn^da osyr cuu hunur uumiiuulhuom Scr Juan leavers Uatiuotz
haa ell inii)rii!ii srriu iu Ladinla iioassa t^ucrra
KiM
\.NU IN THE IIOUNTUV OK VHK (,[II:jON
VS.
ol"
ol' his ;i_t^c. Hij4,lily (]i>)iinti;nislHcl* for intc :4;rity, 1( arninfi^, and al)ilitics,, lie uc'jMirtd
iiiiivtrsal t>>t'(ni and \\as raisul rotvc'} honour uliicii his ^ratdul countiy was cap.ibU;
of 1)1 stow iiiL'. Indeed, surh was ilic rcs|HCt ;^<.ik rally slu-wn to his sn(Krior taltnls,
that no affair of niom( nl was transacted by dii' U. public of the (irisons in which hu
was not coiisniictl. His a(f|tiaintancc w iih fort iifii lani^Miat^ts, his knowledge of the
Wfjrid, and thi. politeness of his address, rendered him the fittest instrument to negotiate
with foreign powers; and lie always aeqnitted himself with hoi\oiir. In a military line
he greatly signalised himself as commaniler of the (irison forces against James of Me-
dicis, for the rapidity of his movements, his personal valour, and cautious conduct .
and by laying siege to the fortress of Musson,t h<^ brought the campaign to a speedy
and successful issue.
He was greatly instrumental in forwarding tlie prog.ess of the Reformation. Al
though inclined to favour the new d<jctrines, yet he was never hurried away by a mis-
guided zeal. Unwilling to renoimce the n ligion in which he had been educated, with
out the strongest conviction of its superstitious tendency, he studied the controversy be-
tween the two sects, and weighed the arguments on both sides with the utmost delibera
tion ; but he no soone r became a proselyte to the reformed opinions, than he shewed
himself as zealoiis in promoting, as he had previously been circumspect in adopting them.
Nor did he only favjDur the reformation by hisexam[)le andaulhuriiy, but he even pronml-
gated its doctrines. As few natives of Mngadina were (jualilied, b\ their learning and
theole)gical knowledge, to preach in the Ladin, die progress of the reformation was
considerably retarded. For these reasons John de Travers, who had critically studied
and written in his own tongue, condescendeel to instruct the people. Having obtained
the permission of the church, he ascended the i)ulpit,J and e};|)lained in the most per
spicuous manner the Christian doctrines. His disiinguished al)ilities, his exalted rank,
his venerable age, and his amiable character, drew from all (juarters a numerous au.
dience ; while his discourses, delivered wi'h a noble simplicity iA' elorpieuce, made the
deepest impression, and never failed to Iticrease the tunuber of prcjselytes. This respec
tal)le man finished his career, which h.iei been so useful to his country, and scj honourable
to himself, in 1500, and in the 80ih jear of his age. Mis writings in tiie Ladin,
which gave rise 'o tins digrtssion, wca' a poem in rln me, de.cnbing ihe war of Mus-
son ; many serinoiis; and several sacred dramas in verse.
The example ol committing the Ladin to writing Wiis ix xt followed by Phiiip Saliitz,
callid Gailicius, one of th<' earliest rei^)rmers among the ( risons ; who, in 1534,
translated the LinPs pra} er, the Apostle's creed, awd the decalogue, into the di ilecl
of Low r ]'..iigaiIiiKi, and not long af.eruarels, some chapters of CI., nesis Irum ilie He-
brew, and the Atlianasian Crted ; which were distributed in manuscript among the na-
tives. Hnlelric C'tUnpel wrote several sacred dramas, in tlic represenlatiun of which
he himself assisted ; and also turn d some of the psalms into ver^e.
* lllc (iiiiiUni uiiiio 1483 ii.inis. liis Vuliis Tcllinx (iiiljcrnutor. l",pis(o|).iiis Aiilx Curator, pliiriiuis
*d e-xtci'os l*riiicii>e's ic;.|;iitioiUil)iis cLaiis, in I'uiria vi rouiiinibiis lumorin !.,n'.ulil)iis run lus, erinlilioiic,
»lcxleritatc,»t tiiuioriuitf unus in Ita'li.i tlia'ibiit; nt Ucipiiblic x lunnit, s'unis, li dccuh iin.Titu ti.iljc.i-
tur. Eo vii'uli's ([UK', imilt.^iu ipsi ' 'liieiliavi.T.iiil liiiiuiiii, nulia in Kci'ulnica ..xjnicuii a;^eb.aur Ciiiisuj
eujus vc'Liiljiti 1' lion » ssL'V vcl coi ^l.'niin non ailvoc.ivi tiir, kc. .Vjjoria Uiu». i p.^JJ.
t Sinuarfl ii'i r Uic i.ilvi: ot'Comu, uoi i'.tr tVoin (Iravi donu.
] Suipiiit Uinc ordo Ev. !nj;cli(;us, sUipuiuota RxiLienn't nipluns cximium iiic.lhum(|iic Iloroa, inter
Rxtix !i,iiiti!iupiiniat(s, ('.in print i pern hal)itiiin. simiiniscti.. ni,paiii.-c l;onuiihiis, (kl)iu)vii\'iiil)\ii prt-
niio insii;r.iliini, scnio mmu^: Cvul'ictain sii;;;,'^- Tii in piiblica s^.i ra xdi- conM'i'nso, popnimn dotcre, ft
uliu liiclL-:iiasiica innni I, (jMairlo rts pose, ha:, op'jraiu siiaiii vtiui oiilinartu Minislru c<)n]u'.ii.';rndo, ct
luboitiii piaiiiipar.d'., suniiuo ..iidicnii'iin api-^.tisti undi.iiic tx locis ciir.i \ieinis, iulci^ris tun.'iis an
ejub scnuoiic's audiendus toullueniibub, obiit. Aporta, lorn. ii. p. ?J'J
Hi'i
0 \\ V. J i r( A ■ ! . r. J IN ;i w 1 1' .: i. n i. .\ m* ,
Hilt tlicsc comi)Oi>itions, being only in maniiscripl, \\\rc ton scarce lor Rcncnl tisc ;
;iik1 'I'lHschct of S;uu;i(l;i, more known by the n;nnc oriVivironiiis, w.js the lirst who
vintnivd to publish in his native toiv.;iu:. That rtkhratccl ixfornKT, iuiciintc, I'roni
cxiuricnci-, that thu want of rcTi;;i()us i)()oks in the c-ilnquiul lanj^na<;v was a great ob-
strm-tion to the jMogress of the r^ lornKition, jirinteil at Pusehiavo, in l.'iOO, a small
work,* \\hieh contained an alphabet, tlie Lord's prayer, the Apostles' creed, the Ten
Connnandnients, and several occasic^iial prayers. 'I'his Ihtle publication, being well
reecivcd, u.is lo', ' ' by a work ol" the greatest inil»ortanee, a translation of Uic New
'I'est anient.]- r i-* • i
In i:.r,2, Iluldi , aipi 1 printed a pceliral translation of the rsalmsj: of David, and
<jtlv.rli\mns, lor the u-.e of the rdornied ( huivhLs; this publieation attordid a striking
prwof oVthe;i!ithor's;-;ep.ius, who wasu!>leto !;i\e so nuieh harmony of metre and va-
riay ofrluines to tl.r language in so riule a state. Bisidis the benefits which this
jisaiter pro'diM ed in a religi<iu.s light, it was aisc) serviceable in a literary view ; as it con
tiibuu d to dilliise a tasU for poi tieal rf.'mposilion among hi,-, cmintrN men, and convinced
them that divine truths might be inculcated ii» a pleasing diction.
Al)orla, in his i xedlentHistory (.f the Reformation among the Grisons, says that the
lantiuage of Bivcronius is {Wkr iuilml dialects) rude an unpolished, l>oth as to the mode
of expres i .n and orthography, and is scarcely understood at prciient ; that Campel
greatly refmed it, and endeavoured as much as possible to reduce the words and ortho-
s-rauhV to a similaritv with the Latin, which was the mother tongue. H(
ipn>
Icnec wr
may observe, that the pu!)lications of Biveronius attbrd the most curious specimen
of the Ladin, as it existed in its most ancient state, when it was chiefly a colloquial Ian-
''•uac'c.
'' The possibilitv of w riting and printing the Ladin was no sooner proved by such atitho-
rhiis, iha.n the press teemed with productions calculated to disseminate the reformed
opinions. These publications, however Qiot excepting even the performance of Cam-
pel) as well as all which appeared in the iiftecnth and in the beginning of the sixteenth
centurv, are now obsolete, and, w ithout a glossary, almost unintelligible to the natives
themselves, w ho have not made them their particular study.
No version of the whole Bible was pul)lishedin the Ladin before the year 1679; it
was printed at Seuol in the dialict of Lower Kngadina ; and republished with various
explanations and a new index, in 1743. Besides the translation of the New Testament
by Biveronius, which is obsolete, a new j version was printed 1640 in the dialect oi
Upper laigadina, and is in ef)mmon use. But the natives of this district have no oUier
version of the Old Testament than that of Lower Lngadiui. _
As it would be unintuesting to send you a dry catalogue of the several publications
m the Ladin, 1 shall thereloie only remark in general that except a history || of the
Clrisons eomi)iled from various authors by Aporta, the books in this tongue solely treat
of religious subjects. S-nuc of our theological tracts, particularly those written by our
* I possess II copv nf ilii-v sciircc \suik, nprlnted at Zuric Ifii, hut v.itliout ihc title p.if^c;. At ni)
iTcimsitlu: kariKd'Aport.. I'.ivouivd luc «iih an accuiati' Cuiai<i;<tic oi'..!! the hooks pi iiilcd in tliiUu-
iiKii.^h ol' r.HHudliM and ol iht Cir.iy I.ia!','Ut'< accompanied «iiii uud.y triii.al uniaiks, which 1 nave
iu;.('.c UM> ol in tins K I'cr. •,•,,,■ i
1 (,iuv i.i.'posLd to print tliis (:atah)inic, which !;-ivcs tlic tJlius of SJ hooks piuucd in the Ladui, and
-6 in the Uoiaan-horihc (iiav Leautic ; hut ivliiKpiislicd it hccaUM it would iia\c swelled this work
too niucl>, and would he uninl.'ic sliu.; lo ihi- -.nei-Jiiy of icadu's; I sludl then lore only u.sirt, in the
Appendix, tlu' lilhs (,t ilie Hihles, and of the Lu, ks printed in the Sixteenth ceiiUiiy, toi^etlier with a
1. '.)cal)ul.a'y of ihi- lani.aiuije.
.'. Ni< JW
Hit f.rjiNruv f> Tin ijiusonj..
'.>a.
at
tniiisl.ital ii.ta tluir Iangnaj;(. ; of Uicsc ( f/i.h' rval,
ai\k'\'s rr.K-licc ol Pivty, ami liua'-r on
Uiviius oC ll>' I.l^t et iiliir),
aiiloii« ihc li-^l ol l»>'>^^ >'» 'Tiy ^)^*s^L^,SI<)ll,
^'m Ko.uansh of llu' (..MJ l.c.iK'Uc rnu-iins to b. consitkrul. Tl.c anlk.t inl>
li. ,o. u ih- cli..Kc:l is a ..:U .Uis.n, Uausl.tul lM.,n thr Urmun Us Dum. IJo
!• , -tor ol- Furstcnuu. uucl i>.-.ulal in K.Ol. It uas soon "^ '«--V''V'(^i ^"n
vl'tion oi several psal.ns. acco.uiMuiul uiih other hy.nns. i,ul)l.siKa at Co.r. u.
^''rhf auihor ol- tl.is us. 1..! i.salur was Suph.n Gabriel, a native o( Vctlan, m
Loucr KnRaclina, and pastor of Uant. ; he uas a ..urn oi consnl. rabk K >rnn>j.-, and
hszcul for the rciornKdr.UKion exposed him to the; lury ot tlu- Cath.hcs uIh,
in 1(20 plundered his house, burnt his hbrarj , and Lu-K Imn u. eiy. (..'bnel
W^^^^^^^^ i'l>. during hi. re lircnunt, an account n| the contrc,-
vc ^bctv a. the- ProtUtants and Kon.an Cathoru s. uhielMU those turhulnu umen
ne >• cxc t^d a civil uar an.ong the Griso.^s. Thi. i ...le nwe, luatrsc urUten .n the
HonuM^' ^^ pn..uU at Zun. h> 102i^, and an.uered m 1(mO by a K.nnan Cathohc
he same tongue; a uork which is probably tin; hr.t prodnct.on prnUed by
Ca hohcs in the Homansh. Up-n the cessation ol the end conunut.on. C.al)rKl
returned to Hants, nhere he passed the remamd- r -1 h.s da) s ,n tran;iu>luy
S ephen ^^as succeeded in his preferment and hte rary pursuit, by h.s .ouLn.misOa
britl who in 1C,48, g.ve a version of the New Te.taineut u work much wanted,
ns the inhabitants of the Gray League were mostly ignorant ol any but th. ,r own Ian-
^1 gi, a. d could widi d.fliaihy cl^.n.prc he nd the translation m the dialect ol hngadnia
It .s^emarkable, that this version, whiel. was printed only lor y-eight year, aher u
Romansh of the Gray League became a written language, should s ill continue- n. a ,
fp oof either that the langu, gc has not received the same degr< e ol refinemenr. a. th
Ladin or that the first prrsons ul.o »role m tluii idiom took great pains to settle the
ordmJranhy, and arrange the grainniiliical ((Jlii»lriictiun. . -r- i ^t
Tlie list of books published in this dialct j ,|f^ fur i\f pmt purt. far mfen<,r l)oth as
to number and merit, to those vsnilen m the Lutllli ; for, excepting the two G.bi. b.
the Gray League has furnished luv men who hm rilst,nf^,iM-)M tlu inse Ives l;y Miperiof
'''a c!?mplete translation of the Bible W,m m Ijlf/ 1) j" 'brf the yearlTlB; it was
A comi)lete translation oi lue «iuie vfn>,„n H'J,"' '"■"i "'' •'"• , ,• , ,, . ^
publisheel at Coirc, at the ..mi^^ pj tL^ '^ 'gl 1/ H//^ ^ira) i.c.gue and cied.ealed b^
he printer toCic.ge die t-ifs*, iilin ».f n^ )•) ftl i I) f. present ol Mty gun.. ,i.. 1 hi
smivUing d.!n e.ed to fh. printer, anej Mm\ I// m ''j^ W ^^^l' P""^'}'-') ' '''T'T:'!
a law-suit beiuien hnn and ihe it(il'i)fj I Hl^ Mt^ f, ||l| tl U7,
had the sole right, were n' ur able iH UUmlH il<|^ )|fff|. IllJW fh- ,...
iii
VOL. >"
ti ^
ij/r ri II \( I.
IIIOM I)\\Il« I h N.SAN I, li'J.- M> IMF AI'IHoH.
O,, f/o /tulum //./////.//jvv r./' Switzrrf.niJ ..JoNHir,, frmu the JJ'/"?/' '/"'/»''; ^•';(^';"'»^
/M M,l,tii,.,/rhr l.ruwtnwriulrif. ..lhl!mzan,\.,.Locarms,., Inwn and Lnkv oj l.u
»-ii'in.. ./,,r>n M,iLi'norr..,.Iiornvui!ii /s/iim.'i.
'"iVl'Tl I'. 1^ vv.'nii,;-- to .ntnpUt.- N(nr(kM.-npti<:n of Ssvitzcrluid ami iN(U|nmkn.
vis ,h.i(lusmIn..'.\'ViuU u.rni tul'illUM, V.. nth and iiuxprnuicc must s.rvr .>'; cx-
cusi;, l.-r (rrors .lul .,.rr..iM,. ll..i>i'S il i!,is l,,.ty ^Utch may cxn'e iIk n.r. -sU)
,,r V, iiiMir ...)• imx otiur tnvdUr .■.I'l^ily ii tr.ii^vnt, «I.r,s,- nI.strv:.t.nnH_ may i.u i.sf
,„,[ ih'.Murt nu.iikiiKl. The ro„U' wl.i- 1, I lu tv uiumpl to drsnihc, i, coin.. ..-.cd
xviiliu.ui uuik; an.utc ul.iJi uoi.Ul i.li'.rd satislaction to the cunous, ol all luitious
who liikr \nu .IS lI'A if ^uidi'. n i •„
'I'lu |.i.'.|ust i.u.ts nlthc priiuiiv.l Alnin.'iM.s.s arc eh., fiy OLOiipird l>y a small plain
.,- hMsii. ;"as tlu. St, IKrn.ad, tlu (un.nu, il-. S|.ln- n, and die Si. Ood.aid. Imm
•he sKiiimi; ol the St. (iothia-d I CMumuudl in\ iniitroii the 2d <>l AiiKiist 1<H(). I
'nlloNUd ilu <oiirst oltlK; Tisiiin ulu.'h >uu nu nrioii in your Inters; it pass.s !)y the
( i.nuchin . ..rv.nt, and is soon .Iter JMiiud by luo otlur rills IVo.n the iu:ii;!>lH,„nnK
,;„;.,ni.iiiis. N\ar this spot tlir L. v..iitin(.- valUy bf^ins, and Swiixc iland properly so
: ,1 U luav br said to ti 1 ininalc. Tli. (ksa lU otilhc side of Italy is much st( ipcr, the
^u as'mor;.' savanv and piclMr. vpu-, than in the ascent from Ur.v rm and tin road is
, „ntlii<t( d with upial skill. '11k: ni.jc siic souu ry is lu i-lm m d by U.c I csino mnibln.g
in m almost nnintc rruplul cataract ; sometimes pent tip in a narr<.w channel, or piercing
as u \ d.roULh dv iMuains of avalanches still unmclud, though hilly exposed to the
.••i\ s 'oV a nuridiaii sun. Thes. cncanious masses obstruct the road ; and xvorknu n are
..'ominuallv employed in promotm- ihur dissolution; as the apegale o unmelled
sno\\ s, foi- a leu s'lininc rs, would bar all comnuiniealioii between Switzerland and Italy :
with such diiliculiy are tiK U\\ passes kepi opui! .- i w i ii
Mter d. scendi.i ivi'idU lor .h:ve miles through this scence ol desolation bounded
on'all sides Ia pre'eipi.es,' or impeudiuK^ rocks, the river loan.in.i; over blocks .,1 gra-
.,iu the ruin's of tlu ^urroiu,dh.K nu)nniain> ; we crossed the Ponte I remo.o, or tri m-
blin'^- brid|;;e; u huv the vii .V uuat -ul, and extended over a verdant val.ey sprinkled
wiih ntinv rous honsi s, , .i • i ♦
\in !•> Ihr lirst s„.;,ll bnr-li, st ,!,ds at the bottom ol i!ie steep descent ; lo the ri-iit
is the l:a^s: -c ov> r mouul (.lias to >:ui;sler in U.e Upper \'ullais, practicable onb In.m
iIk m'<hile'or.!ul\ to October, wlun three lunulrcd horses transport weekly the cheese
tioni tlu various liarts(;l Suit/,eria:(i. , •„ -. i r . r »•
\t l),(i.jwr loni.dcomrorlableaceonv.uodatKms; Uuttvilla-c con-isls only ol a Uw
Pru^es v'icdalthe entnince of a pas., capable of be,,.;;dt leiuled with ease .jrunsUhe
uiioU 1-ive r.f iu.lv. A nail and K.iU' i' added lo iis uaiural slren-ih ; but their P'rm-
Ui uv ■ is to on Cei.t eon.iaband inV.e, and t: exact a small toll h.r die ivurch;.nd.se
^/,;,.l, ,.,„ i',„ w.iv. Kor half aKa.aa is a sneci ssion ol sviikin- aial ro.n;aHii
.,' ..'^A ■ i;,' M.pendHul.;riocksse.aeU\ J\ idinsv room lor die s.e.p road, and irans-
^;lren^^^'a'usol ti.e Tesino, uhi h. dun.krr.. ovel da vasl: ti": uuKOts, nses m a white
Inm aid.':l;t:. mi^t, viable oi;lv hum o liaeun- d.e ras , oi die sun. \\ e erosncl tiie
lorre;':, :;. '^■^•■ --hon sMae^.', ovc three b!-u,U,c^ thronn lioui rock to I'^ek, uiio^e span
\Sl> IN I in. fOUNI'KV "» UlE O'lnON*.
I'ur
In/
II-
it)
list'
Lci
Ins
lin
>m
I
If
n>.-
so
lie
is
iiig
md l)oI(!noj.H uf ixccutluu might \k- u'uli ihr boustttl, bccuuiv Utltcr kiiouii, I). vil'-.
Bridf,^..
K.i'kIj is lliv asiili'iut or ilu l)iili,T, tminiiuft d hy th< < \u\ton of Uri. llo inni tins 'm
•^tVn • l:)iiry( ;irs, and li»^|iin\ir !•> ;iliiin,i niilnuitid. L'nluriini iti iir.niTLcMDii/ni li"l«,
.md in 17.). i, liavc htcn ;iU« ndid v.itli tlu' I is-* nl die kiv n iiuiiiiirf |ii'ivilif.>s ti* u pcu
jiU vlir)strii!.;'/lal rnililmty I'^iiiist dt mdinaio «)|)j>ivis»'jn,*
Criort,)' 'I, i-.illtd i)y ilu' (l.rinins lr'ii>, is I ;inoii>, li.i- tlu- victory ulii'h ()<)>) SwK'*
f;;iiiii(l, in 1 178, ovi r tin tr(io[)s<)l tin duke oi .Milan, iiinoiinUii<r lo l,'*,'J''0 nu ii ; avii
H)ry uliicli insuad to the Sv\i«»s an h.)ii!)iiiMl)le and advaiit i;;c()U!4 peace. In ilii> nei^^U'
bmnliood \\< fiiM pvreei\cd;'hetiretts of a southern siin, •inda Lsser tlevalion uhou, th»-
sea, by the lie«|ni nt appi ar.ince «>!' vine\ard'>. and the wahuit and ehesiuittivts '.'la \\\\
lar}i;e si/,e ; the;;irih oi iL\eral aiiiuii^ ih*. latter \\a.-» m.H !<.*■» thaiithiit) He!. A'. I'oU-
gin, this bailha^j;e ends.
The I^evantine N'allej', or \*allj LeveiUina, i^ sti;)pi)«ied to nriin, ))} its name, irares
ol the L(p<aitii, the aneient iiih i!):lants nl the s'lrroiiadiiif;' rcj.;i()ns. It'> u nj^'ih lioin ih.^
bnnmwt ol tlie passaj^e on liu' Si. liotJUird, i«> al)uiit eiglu Ka^ueb; the breatiili very in
consideral)Ie. 'i'he lower part is cxtretiidy populous, rieh in past^^ra^^e, and produces,
luueh lump and llax. In the iiei ■libotnhcjod (U'such lofty niirinfains, itselimitc tnu»l
be variable, and liable to liecpiint rain;,. 'I'o |)revent thL->e rains Ironi (.lanj.';^i;i;;' ihcir
crops, the inhabitants suspend .rul dry the corn and |j;ias» oa bars snppoih d hy twohi^Wi
poles aboil* lilteen fiet asniuUr. The liuists arc entirely (/i wood, and have ixiernally
the appearance of .S\\ iss cottapje^ ; bn. a net.','v.et ol' cleanliness proves tlie \iiiuity and
g-reater similarit) to the Italians. 'I'hc 'i'esiiio is here jiiin^d b\ tlu' Hnjinio, a toiri^nt
which lakes its rise in mount L'ceello, or the \ Oi^elsberi;, near Spln;^xii ; a br'idf;e o\er
it is the boundary nlthe two bailli,i;j;(.ij ol' (he vallie:. Li \antine and I'olese, and Lads into
that ol iViviti,'. 'I'he \alley now bieoims perlicily H at, and ol'cour-ie sul)ji.'tt to violent
iiuinda.iions; w^e R vv \ .ll.ii^es .iiv se.itteietl on ilif sides of ihc su i p mountains; below
all is «h solatt . Obs<}j;na, thensidenei ol" i!ie bailiil', consists onI\ ot a iv '.v Ivjuscs.
The touiitry -in improved; the };i\)i.nil rose |j,uuly Irom the bid (,! the riser, when
We eanie ni si!;ii ol' the bi utiliil town c^' liilliiii:iaie, situated in a di liL;iitrnl plain, incir-
». led wiihancieiii w. ills and battlenieiils ii. ^.^ood i\i.Mir; to the rij,ht rise inaj. s'.ically the
ruins ol an ancient rastiv ; ti- tJK' U It, .se|)ai'.itel\ i n.l)!)soniid in ireis, are liie csilib e-i"
the bailill's fj'ila ihu e i\ .^( ul c,aiiti)iis, L'li, S'.'hweitr,, and Uiakrwaiden.
Ahout du bcjj/mr/n;;; «'l ihe iiin ciuluintnry , the Swiss, at peac^. with tin luae.v in
.■\nstria, sicm iirst to iii\i !; • n stin»'i' '.ted with the ambition oi' e.stending tluir duiui-
tiion towards liu s(;u['i. ln!'.l'\l wlvA llehutic bod) , lxci piiii;^ the e.i!\to:i jf
B'.rn, passu! tlu ir nati,. ,'■ Ij.nrKri, pi.iinl i\d the town (;!' Donio d'O^'.:', 11 1, ai.d the
ailjaeent eomuiy, and •"e-unul I dvii vitli vjcil (o pass the uiutir in iheii hum!)le < a
tages. I'dated by sne(e.s, the ■ usnniir siMiiiin r sj iw ihein ajjj.iin descend into tlu' plains
ol'lialy, and riVajji. (iic du'.ehy ot M'i.ai, thci su'ujeet tr) the N'iscontis; they a,Ljaiu re-
tiivJ, but wi'hout .Uinipd'i^- h,. make a ••, lii'.nient. lint on these mterprises, we arc
not surprised, that, i.. 1 iJJ, ilu in/' e (iiiijinal cantons purchased llie town ol liellia-
^oni, from its owners iIk eovinis of Sas ; or ihii I'n'ilip Mana, duke of Milan, ex-
trti.u himself lo piweiu Irom laln.'.i, inlo their hamls a Kjwuso . iporuiiil, hum its situa-
tion and natural .-'nii'tls lo dii'k their inroads, and co\ir I > deminioub. Ilavint^
thcrel'ure taken po-.b^s^ion ol it L\ tuice of aiiUs, a body oi uC'OO i^wi.ss passed the .iVl|>
* The I.i'v.^ii'iu'. V,.U' %■ A„s iuUml <i in tin' cai.U'n uiul ilcpartiutiii f IkUiuzoar
() K .1
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I II \\ , 1... I.N ,W I I /I
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TI*. Inrcrs <>; Ivith tntioMs met , tlu I; H.iiis uin- lul onhy (.,irin'';rn*'»Ui ; a 1)1.)(kI\ Init
iK u>s'ikI,<-| uhiihlcth silts ilimutl tin' \i''t.>ry . tin S-.viss n tind with a si.mcl.inl
f'\U\\ Iroin iIk mh nn, whn riiii;iiii<.(l ni:i«.Ui'v ol'th*. town.
r.xctpliii}; M'tiH- iiireKiiU, ii..»!iiii|<<.riin;>(.rf.inc.' w.is ■.>\r:\'u\ fr.iii'.'i(iMl to th smith liP
ilu vt It- IKU"), svliitiCnItU/:/. ) M.iti.i S\< \zaaU'.' 'k u duke nl Mil^m, l..riii(il ,iii iilli.nici
with Ms iriins;ili'ii '• f i;,l»l)ntirs : thv lit!,' ..itifU- was thu ass'iMH of thi- Liv.iutiiu Vitll.y
tu the ctihtoiinl Uii, r- luhH'hfi'.' WAS uiiiiinlly lo n c«ivc lUnv h,i'\ks:m(l n « n.ss.hf.w
Yet ftii V'''iis;irir, whui (.'hiili's (hikf ol Hiii-!.:iituh thriatviKil ihc tnt.il ikstniciioiKir
thr mmliSit: \a his pDUui'.il in\a'-i(Mis, \\k iu.i(hir(iis iliikf ol Milan suit a ImkIv of
troops I.J hi«. avast iiur, wl.o wm.' iiit«rin>tul in tlu: Willais, and uorstid. On tlif dc<
IVai ;iMrWU;i'l.nt Chailts i.uht li.t'U' ol'Naiicy. tlu y a(.:aiii asuhid lo make an .uii inpt
on Ut ilin;:>'i ( ; Itiil ar- llu M.isc.'M^aH too l.a- advuiK a d lo niul» rlikt tlu sii};i. , a I) kIv ol
<•.((> Sv^iss u.sojvtd to \\inui- at iiiornid). Tin dnkt <;t-lk<:iid an army of 1:).<kH)
nun, and atuickul tlu lu in il t ir < nin nrl.ti i nis, Imi was npnlsid with tlu- loss ol 1400
or his lust troops. 'Thi inonni.iiiKus wov mric'lud wiihllu siuiiU ; l)iit no rci;niar
.lUai k wa-. uiiaN' on the (.lijt.i I ol ilu ir insasion.
l-'rom this jM I i' i(! tlic w ais in w hich the S\\ iss enirafri d no ways conrt riud tlieinsclvrs ,
tiM'V j-aerirmd tiaii l.lo< d in Ionian (piarrels, and tin. eontendinjj,- pi.riics itiacK nse of
tluir snpirior x.'linr lo attempt or esl.;lili;il» coixpuslsin It.ily. In I'^OO the thrnean-
tons (.htainul uh:tt ih^vhad so Ion;;- eotifeiukd lor : iIk inhahitiint', ol |U lliii/.oni. v» xid
by the I'lupunt t haii^vs in the Mil.uu se, voluntarily stirrenden d to tlu in. Tlu Fivmh,
whin tlu\ h.d .( lupicrid thcdiMehy,in \ain U( l.iinu d it , the Su i^s niaiiud poss( ssioii ,
and til" V viii hi'iitn lK.iUi;ti;ts \m r'l rormall) r.uUd to tlu n» In .Maximilian Si<irj:a, in
• nutiinde lor tluir havin.i; reinslalnl inm i.i the dueal seat. Conrtul or It .ind hy all
parii's, those valnahle teiritorieis wuv confirmed to them by the IVeiuli, and finally by
the house ol Austria.
'I'he liailiir riiniiiiis in ollicc t\\ o m ;irs ; he is nominated reciprocally by the three can
;uns, and isi^. mralh removid lioni Uiviualhc poorist, to lieilinzoiu * the most lucra
tiveolthe three j^overniiunts. An appeal lies irom his decision to the s\ ndicate, and
from that court to the thue cantons: in ucksiasiical atl'airs, tlu inhabitants are ri.irni'.?;i
ble to the bishop ol Coino, txecptint; thue p.,iishes. Most ol the natives uiKlerstaiid
Italian, lait the laiu.'nam is a corruiit Clii mim.
'I'lu iniirioror U<.llini:oii. b\ no nu an-, ecji re s|)onds with its external beauty and situ
Lition ; the stru.'saie nurr a\ , ami tlu honsis ill built, Wi continued our jonrncy south
on liu banksol the 'lesiiuj, whiih wi crjssid in a bad I'l rry : that river is lure iiureased
to a eoiisidin.ble sixe, bv the numeriHis ailditions ii h.isreetived in its course, particu-
larly IVt m d.e Mi'sa, a torrent which ti.kcs iisrise in tlu St. Ikrnardin, and How int,^ down
ihe'X'al M, ->ox, loriiis a jniuticai > boM licllin/.oiu. 'J'lu valley isle\el,;.nd laid waste-
by luinuiunt, loriints; the roail inns aloiij^ ihesidis ol the hills through rontmued
siiuxards. We pnaeidul at tlu tool ol' the wes'trn ( liain ol hills; a similar ridijjc
iioundsthe view to llu east, both elotlud to tluir summi's with woods oi" elu sunt and
walnut tries, hall eoi.eialinfi- IrKpunt spirts and nnim rous hamlets. Hetbre us the view
c.xtencKd to a part ol tie .\'iil,.ue se , o\( r the laki ol L(u;ariio, (-r Lago Ma}^-t,noie. Hav-
\u^ reaih d its noiih wesiem exiiemiix, we e oasu d its banks lor two or three miles,
and airi\edal the town bom uli.^h ilderi\es its name.
• Tln-c •Jiici
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( ,M..i(!i,li> lnst!t,,If *::r M.st.^r,. r Mm t , ; r ,.(, r . ,.j ii, 'lO-
InvTif.jt , ,i!i,(iiM" h' ■'■..' '. If .'(,'• :-ti!. ?,cns t;isTiiri<j(
CNN
r ' "S
-="-^' " "r"" ""al;-:' "a'uu-'r r . r:' : h coupons th. J ru-nnus, ..:ui .
old parr 01 ih. ^'^^^•'^•^ ' ;>;;''^^X^^ . ,. u nvnhaa^in^ rhcv.lky. ami comnuiu
i-ork. and .Imost riv ds v^j^^;,!";;^ !^;J;| '',^'£:i,,,„ ,, u.- twelve c:uU..ns, Ln;;ano I^.M-
Of .!k lour liVHYli >.K- ^-'''^I'^'S^^^^^^'^ T c -.V r or, or o.nmlssa.v .. Ik is rMl M
,1, nriiiripal .-.nk, L(r:aru<r'- the second. \'^^ -/;' "^ \' ', j,,,, •,,, ■ iVux tv.o \ r .r. .
is SC.U .:. Inccssicm by .11 the cantons except Aj p u - ^ J^"^ ^ ^ ^,^,„„ ,, ;, ,,,;
,,,, ,..,. ,he re,ent cant..ns, --^ ';'- ;^--;:' ^ . ^ :^:;.; ^ J „,„ortun Uely depcu!
,U.,. Tiw cnohuneuts ol !us p. r "^^ .^ ^;^ ' , ' ,iV ,,,„ ,i„...s eracted lor rri
„,, ,„.,rh onihe virtue ol ihe man, as ''^' >/\\'^,\ l^^' ,, h ,;i,i ,„ „„„j,,i ,ssemhlv in the
vninal .iVences. The people enjoy souk- pr.v.lejMS, ^'"^ ^ ' '^^ . ^^^^^ „,- ,,,, ,,,„-, u.v.
.on-h or .lannarv. in winch thev e.cctt.vcnty - -- »^ ^ ' ^^ :,^^":L ,,llors h av. Uv
,on. A^eona, -he remaimU r Iron. /'^ /^^ > , ,^^^J^ j., ^^' , , not interlVro n ith th.
charge '^^--'■^-^^^:'^:^'^^^ snpplie. pud toth.
^uprrior powers, ot sctilmKtl < puDUe \^V^'\ .„irH--u'nt for their domestic eon-.nnp-
silk nuinuraetures. . , ,^ ,, ,. , v^. .,,.., |,,^a a port rapa'ole of re.-eivin- !ar-e
Locaino was once siuiated on the i.kc, .i,ul naa p i ,.;,vnmst Mice ou in-
barks • at present it stands at the distance ol a cp.artu- <.la muc , a c,..enms...nee
t; die'accunuilation of sand bron;,lu doun hv tlK^ ^^^-y^';;^^;^^^^^ ,j,,. , , ,i
t'L : Loe.no lorn, a line <>,,jeet, to the .>u h ts I -I-;-; l^^^ \;i;;^reon '
..ntnnaud by n,onnta.ns e..vercd -> ; ^'^ ^ ^\;,. , , ' ,i .^,Ue nurehandise. whim
J; :;1; s;;;.!!;::;.! pLu. t^ hound., ol U. baima^es o. L^eamo and I.u.ano. On.
Bd!n-,K,, ai-i l.^omd li.U) the c..u'.:>u w (Ivu.u-lvnciU <a Lu.n;:>"
>. M.
H^M
It'.
;,";; rn.vvj'.r.a in 2vvn /kiu.an j^.
,;..„,>( .a D.'ucu. llK' hi!K, thro.rh Invnnant and v.rcl.i.t v:,l ics, peopled with nu
nu ^1. ^. s nnd r.ch ,u cvcr^- produ.i'.n. The vi.us, ludcu uuh "-uit. arc Co..
d I. 1 in' !.; .nl, llstoons fW.n i^l-V^ tree ; a constnU var.ctv ot scenery, «;> tuu.^ by
ll.; .l„.,v ol' a -etiin:.; sun, aiul u.yA >ilv.n.d by the nmcn K^hnuncrmK^ on the distant
Im! r '!■< i-hun. (1 \hv .•harms ol' fair ifanauv thn)«u>h this Klysian country.
' Tl 'urX oILm^.u.^
Kv >?.•■• MUM. ssinn or hills, ri-in^;: in genlU- swells to a cnnsiderable height : m front, a
, ,,;i ,,,;,„, •„, ,,Mthcd nil, Inrest projects into the lake, ui nh.eli a noble branch extends
n '. :' and 1.1L To tlvu sp.H biU:, of every si.e are cont.nnally passing ;md repass^
i,.' is base be-.n,^perroraUcl iith can.ine. or caverns, to which tlK inhabitants sed
;:;.. . t n.l all s',rts or i-rov i^ion, where it is kept untainted lor seven or ei|;hl d.,> s,
n 'tl^ u ne . ■ ved wiJia (K lieinns coolness. Kuj-vin^die advantages ol a soudj-
V nr t i has T w oi' its inrnnvuuenees : the heats are moderated by the snrroui.d-
, nd h ^.<m! brce.es lion, the lake. It is no le:,s sheltered Iro.n the Alpine
hss w i b ehilkd bv the neit^hbourinij snows, would cvtluruise descend with vio-
i:nc!'':md destroy the teniperat>n^e of diis equal climate. 0;ue, almonds, and all the
sondiern IVuits, ripen liere to perleetion. , v . „.u\rh n'.sMs fmni
Lu-mo is the ninorium of the -reater part ot the merchandise nhch passes lioni
ItJv o^^- r the k. vAu.nl or the Ikruarclin. At the c nd of autumn the S-- .noun-
t c sbrin^^ dmvn nunurous herds of cattle for s .le, and return u.th less 'H.lky com-
Sit es. The town contains about mt) inhabitants ; most ol the ^-^-^^^^^^^^^
f tone ; the residencx- of the capitano, or Pove. nor, ,s a .ow bu.ldu^K ; on the u alls at
ens of tlv twelve ULrent cintons. On an eminence above the town s ands the
:!-.;;:::; :hu:ch, remarkallle only lor the beauuhd carvm. in -'>-;; >;-^j;^^--|.
uul n se window and for the delicious prosiuct Irom its terrace. In th. cloisieis o
;^'l^ ol s:'c;:^:hal picture, attributed to I uvmo : tlu ir church is h.idsome, ar^
Ihe skreen is ornaminted with die paintinc,^ of the Passion, by t'.ie same nias.e. . 1 he
nJ lee of the marnuis de Uiva contains a lew t;-ood pictures.
^ \\V 1'' n b k d upon the lake of Lugano,- which is about twenty-five mi e m
lenrnh ' d IVom two to Cur in bread h : its form is irrej-nilar, and xnd.ng into con -
u^l^inlu^r The town is a line object, backed by the ^^-;^^f^^^^^
h-n ks on each side are bordered with a succession ol t,'ardens and n illas At c. isuii g
d"th e 1^ nch pointing northward, we crossed tc> the C jntine, ai.d con.nmed cm,
vnV U under the precipitous roeks, whose bases are lost m the depths of th. lake. \\ c
Imdl^ult^lo^ Hm^dl village in the dntchy of Milan, situated at rs southern ex-
'"'ivl this point an arm of the lake bc:nds northward, and discharges itself into tlie
-Z^:]^;.:^'!':^::::^^ wit,, satis.ction min^led with com..ssion
tl.. v o.L^ contrast of a iree and arbitrary frovernment : tue borders oi ih.l.^^ s b ct
to Switxc rl u,d studded with a succc-ssion of viUag ■«. houses, and gardens , tins pail ot
jhe Milanese is desolate, and almost unpeopled.
. The ..We of I.u,.no Is .cbout iOO fcc. perpenaicuUa- .a.iK.nh.n the I.U. I^J^fo^ -d L.^> >L.^
■.ore. Tlietvvo l..st-.u.'n.iu..c(l lukcs are ot ii.c san.c IcxcK aiul '''?""V\'^..\'u.'..:.l'' ... ., ^,.,
'v^ri s;r S'iir 1. 1 ■ Aiii. i« ii;^ c.;:u N.vis. ai Lo„..„au «». V-"
A.vn IN I II E COL'NIKV 01 i III. f. Ill:; ON
991
On Icaviuf? th:U villiigf. the hills Ix-gin to diminish, ;\ik1 in th. course, ol tlnvc mil- s
•irc toUilh- lost in \\\v ridi plain ol LoinNardv. Van.sr j, ciiiialy conipo^.d >)r ihr hiat-.
or ill.' iM'ilan..sc nobility. 'I'Ik' pr.u-ipal \k\U/.7.o \^ the resid; iicc of thf dul. hcss dowaj^a-r
of Moduia ; the gardens aa laid out in ihc old tasto ; the arlificial mount connuands i
fine view over a rich plain, a small lake, and hwnnded by the lon.^^ eliain of Alj. .. In
the mas^niiiveiit saloon are some tokrabie portraits of the iauiilies ofMoikiia and Aus-
tria. The iniperor, as duke o«" Milan, has exerted himself in the snppresMon ol con
vents; a Franciscan monaster; has f.iUen a sacrifice to his plans of reformation.
The n-ad from hence to Laveiio, a small bur^h on the Lai;o ML;,u;iori>, is varied, and
the country very rich; to the ri^lu, on an eminence, is San Hicrauicnlo; to the kl*
WC passed 'near some lesser lakes. I'rom Lavcno we were rowed across the ckh;;!i!fui
passag(! to I^ola Bella, one of die fimous i nehanted islands so particidarly descri!)ed,
and with such pleasure, by bishop Burnet and Keysler, who comi)ares it to "a pyramid
of sweetmeats, ornamented with green festoons and ilov.en..'' But as the taste ol man
kind alters widi die succession of years, 1 considered it only as a monument of expenoe
and folly ; terrace rises above terrace in regular gradations, bordered with flower.])ots, oi
gigantic statues of horses, gods and goeldesses ; the whole is raised upon arches, and
the soil has been brought from the shore to cover them. Tiie jjalace is magnilicent.
and contains a profusion of marbles and paintings; the lower part of tlii' house over
hangs die lake on one siele, where several apartments iU'e furnished in the style oi
groUos; the floors, pillars, and v.alls, are inlaid with various-coloured stones, mar
blcs, and shells ; the view and Uie coolness united make this part a d«.licious suinnui
retreat.
If any dilng jusdy gives this island die appellation of enchanted, it is the pro^iiec
from the terrace : the gradual diminution of the mountains from the regions of eiei
nal snow to the rich plain, the sinuosity of the lake, its varied banks, the bay of Mar
gozzo bounded by vast hills, the neighbouring burgh of Palanza, and more distan;
view of Laveno, the numerous villages, the Isola Madre, on which is a palace of the
Borromean family, and anenher island sjninkled with fishermen's huts, form adeliglului
assemblage. 'I'iiese islands, and the whole western coast of the lake to the bailliage ol
Locarno, was ceded to the king of Sardinia, b\ the late empress (jueeii, at the treaty of
Worms, in consideration of the assistance which she ive:eived from diat m.^iarch.
We re-entered our boat, troubkd by the importunities of t'ie Ixggars, \vlio>e mis.r
able huts aeljoiniiig to the palace disgrace the island. Belgeritta i:> a neat s i.lige, con-
taining some excellent houses, and a handsome church. From thence we t;untiiuiul
our vo\age down the lake. 'I'he tract of country tu our rii^lit, ircjin near Palenx.i to
ten miles south of -Arona, pays a small eontribuiiou to the liorromean I'amily lor .->. luiio
rial rights. That family receives a toll from the mercliandiie whie.h pasavs, gr..iiis U;c
privilege of fislun.';, and iippoints eleven judges in the i\s|iicilve \iilages ; Imu an v.\)
peal lies from their deei.-,i(ni to a superior; noaiinatcd by die king e^l Saithnia, and le^
sident at Palanza, and again to Turin. 'J'lie riilus of d.ii (jpnlent liou-^.. at', nu-.v- i;i-
e a-.U'iiig'jr. Irr
ni 'St i.iacet. .s>ii
creasmg from the product of die gcjld mines, \vlrr:!i 1:
parts of t!ie mountains, thirty miles from M.irgoz/io. .Vl/ovc Arona is a seminar} 1 a
Ibrtv bovs, founded by San Carlo liorronu'cj ; ne:;r it !iis eoioss.il status, six'} feel in
height, is placeel on a pedestal of just proi)orti()riS ; he !;:> representee! in his eareiinars
luroit, the right iiaiid extended, a Look emder the kit arm. 'i'he si;, me is o!' brori/,e-,
was east at Milan, and brenight in separate pieees, San Ca.rlo, lupliei/- to pojx: i*ni'-
the Fourth., was born near tliis .spot ; he pi.ssed wiiii i.iuv credit llirough hi.-, hUuliLS,
and the dignities of the eliureh ; war^ ma(k a e>a\iinai, a.iel areliuislio,) ei Milan, ik-
lu.-;. .; ; !v.i vKi.;; i v ., w i j *;*. fi i. \ :. 1', C;' .
. !i..i ii\ i; (! |i:Mis oi iiKiii"-, dm lui. l!.t plaj^in. \' l;irli immilii c! liis dio.i >c.. ll.i sMl)i!.'r.t fit
■■')iw,i;i\ |j.;c ['LiUir. •) a\ Milan, i;)Miri' Iwiu iiu»U' uxiuril m now ii ili ai Ium ,ui"iii/.aii(jii in
A".iii;i i.-, :; ■ni d! t"UP, \\ ill) a iital ])i,rt ; .;L()M' il r'i'-.t s ;i tiiiii'.d * ;,->t!r, w 'ulIi. mi tht
.ill 111 I pat I 1 du Miiamsc hisf('i\ , u„s a |.lui' oi' dn. utiirist iiiiia;it,itn.i : il tin |k."
111.;', wlmi dn !.;icat ccaikslh arost. Ijiluicii Uic laiiiili< s i,l \ isioi.d ;.i.d 'J'l iti i iiii, Uw-.
' i;-.dv; ua'5 thf pi '•j.t.Uial olijict <ii taplurc iiiid reprisal, Odi') N'iseoiui, i\\t: an li!>i.-,li'j]>,
whoat li iiLcdi }i;aiiu(l the as* ciidaiii) , uiib twice npuLrd iiid dii\Lii IVoiii Ikiili.'. 'Vwo
prouioiit iii( s pioj'.ct ii\U) ihr lake al this sput ; the i astern is (Towned willltlK castle of
.'viii^hiera, and t;i\rs name tn this vahiahle |)r(j\in('i', whieh in MOT, to pMtifv (laU-
r,'.7A>y the secdud duke of Milan, Uaseiieltd into a lotnitry by the emperor \\'t nce^laus.
,!id h.'s sinei- been trinslirred to the kin^ ol Sardinia. On doublinj^ the pr()m()nt(jr)
.;f Ai'Mii, she lake a!;;ain enlargi s, and rnrnis a bay ; the banks arc very low. Soon
..lur enteiin.^- die Tesino we landed at the dirt} \illat;e ol' Sesto ; hired another l)ii.it,
iik! wen hnnied with i^riat rapidity down tliat river, between hi.i;!! banks ol i^ravil, to
Ik { omimiieiniintor the Na\ ii:;lio (Irande, the f^reat canal which f'onas the junetion bc-
■\\( ( :i the l\) and die Adda, calculated not less ibr conveying merchandise and wood to
Milan, th:ni lor be n. finini;- tJK; neighbouring coimtry with jjarlial inundations, anil lor
die pnrpos" ol l.iying tin rice fields under water. Its breadth at first is great, but nar-
rows as vvc adsance, and the stream becomes almost a dead water.*
If bad weather and (jiher circumstances had not prevented me from extending my
our, I pm-jjostd visiting the bay of Margtjzuo, Domo D'Oscclla, Varallo, and the gold
•nines in its ik ighbourhood ; an excursion, which, from the reports 1 have heard, could
not fail (;f aflorcling the highest satisfaction to the naturalist, and the lover oi nature in
her great tealurcs.
« Au.in'.i!.!; lu ilu; al^ht Tvisi, the leiH>;th of tlic Nuviglio is 86,000 braccia, or \i ItaVum miles /"fiO
'.) ;i(li,tt;i( t ;) i; .l.itMtlUi ui tlic «'!itranct: 70, wliich fjnulually diiuinisliosto 2o; iiiidilif (k rin udi' ular
hiii;lil Ot iliiJ t.ai ot \v,atr is 5>8 ; at first 5 bvucciix per iiiilc, ijrucln.illy di'crciisiiii; lor lln tiist tw: lyi
r.,ilts, uiiiii i: IS ii(j more, tliaii one br.iceio in ii mile ; tiuii iiii i( usiui^ lor I ho live ucxl )m\Us U> ^ lit
til iiioif Uuii; live br.i i i.. in .. milt See Cunul Nii\ii; diLonib. (J. 1. A Milanese bructioisloanK'.'
■,'.ish tool nt'4,rly as U'^ to II.
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