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Photographic 

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Corporation 


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WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CiHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microraproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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L'Institut  a  microfilmd  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
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une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
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Couverture  de  couleur 

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Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
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Coloured  pages/ 
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Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
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mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
nas  6t6  filntdes. 


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obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


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Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires; 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu^  ci-dessous. 


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Image 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

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The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
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filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
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the  last  page  witl>  a  printed  or  illustrated  impies- 
sion,  or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — »>  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


L'exemplaire  filmd  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
gSn^rosit^  de: 

Bibliothdque  nationale  du  Canada 


I.es  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reprocluites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  comptu  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet^  de  l'exemplaire  i\\m6,  ot  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  dq 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  origiraux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  film^s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreints 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film^s  en  commengant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  v  .  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ♦-  signifia  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film^s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff^rents. 
Lorsque  !e  document  est  trop  grand  poor  etre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clich6,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcensaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


irrata 
to 


pelure, 
nd 


□ 


32X 


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6 

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I. 

NARRATIVE  OF  DISCOVf:RV  AND  ADVENTUKK 
IN  THE  P().\AR  SEAS  AND  REGIONS: 

With  Illustrations  of  their  Climate,  'jeology,  and  Natural  History;  .'.lui 
an  Account  of  the  \Vm.\li;-Fishkky. 

Hy  Sill  John  Leslie,  K.R.  G.,  Professor  of  Natural  I'hilosophv  in  tht- 
University  of  Kiiinbursjh,  and  Corresixinding  Member  of  the  Hoyal  Iii>ti. 
'.  te  of  France;  Uobeiit  Jameson,  Esq.,  F.H.S.K.  x  L.,  F.  I,..S.,  M.W.s., 
Regius  Professor  of  Natural  History  in  the  University  of  Edinburgh  ; 
and  Ih  (Jii  Mi  krav,  Esq.,  F.Il.S.E.    3d  Edit.     In  one  volume. 

EmtwUishcd  with  Charts  of  the  Koutes  of  Discovery,  and  Fifteen  Engni\inf.'v 
exhiliiting  I'ictureviiie  N'iews  of  the  Arctic  Keffioii's,  Jinmiis  of  the  \fttivi> 
with  tlieir  ()ccui«ttions  and  Purbuits,  Natural  History,  Wliale-Fisliei.. ,  &'■. 


II. 

NARRATIVE  OF  DISCOVER V  AND  ADVENTURE 

IN  AFRICA, 

FROM  THE  EARLIEST  AGES  TO  TlIK  PRESENT  TIME. 

With  Illustrations  of  the  Geology,  Mineralogy,  and  Zoology. 

By  HiCH  MiHRAV,  Esq.,  F.R.S.E  ;    Professor  Jameson  ;  and  Ja.ml-> 
Wilson,  Esq.,  F.  R.  .S.  E.,  and  M.  W.  .S.     2d  Edit.     In  one  volume. 

With  a  Map,  and  Plans  of  the  Routes  of  Park,  and  of  Denham  ft..d  Clap- 
I>ert()n,  and  'J'liirteen  F.ngravini,'s  illustrative  of  the  Scenery,  Natural  Historv , 
Costume  of  the  Inhabitants,  &c. 


•2  EDINnUUOII  CADINKT  LIBRARY. 

III. 
VIKW  OF  ANCIENT  AND  MODERN  EGYPT: 

With  ail  Outline  of  its  Natural  History. 

ny  the  lU'v.  Mr(  iiAi-.i,  Rrssr.i.i.,  1,1.  I).     -M  F.dit.     In  one  volume. 

llliistrati'.!  liv  a  Mai.,  a  I'.utniit  <«f  Moliunimid  Ali,  and  Ten  otIuT  KriKravings 
i.-iirrsfiitiiiK  the  most  Itciimrkablc  'IVini.ks,  I'yramids,  and  other  Monuments  ..I 
Aniinu't)' 

IV. 
PALESTINE,  OR  THE  HOLY  LAND; 

iHoM  Till'.  i:aiu,ii:mt  iM.iiioK  Id  Tin,  pkksi:nt  timi:. 

Hy  the  lU'v.  Mi(HAi:i,  Hi  ssKi.i.,  LL.I).,  Author  of '«  View  ol"  Ancicnl 
aiul  Modem  Egypt,"  iltc.     .'id  Edit.     In  one  volume. 

With  a  Map,  and  Nine  Kni,'ravin«s  representing  its  mojt  striking  Scencrj , 
Temples,  Henmins  of  Antiquity,  &c. 

V. 

LIVES  AND  VOYAGES  OF  DRAKE,  CAVENDISH. 

AND  DA.'MPIER: 

Including  an  Introductory  View  of  the  Earlier  Discoveries  in  the  South 
Sea  ;  and  the  IIistouv  of  the  Ur(  (;am:krs.     In  one  volume. 

With  Portraits  engraved  in  Horshurfsli's  best  line  manner. 

VL  VII.  VIII. 

HISTORICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE   ACCOUNT  OF 

BRITISH  INDIA, 

l-ROM  Till-.  MOST  HI:M0TK  ITKIOl)  TO  TIIF.   PRl'SF.NT  TIME  : 

Including  a  Narrative  of  the  Early  Portuguese  and  English  Voyages,  the 
IJevolutums  in  the  Mogul  Empire,  and  the  Origin,  I'rogress,  and  Esta- 
lilishmcnt  of  the  Hritish  Power  :  with  Ulustraticmsof  the  Zoology— Ho- 
taiiy— Climate,  Ceology.and  Mineralogy  :— also  Medical  Observations,— 
an  Account  of  the  Hindoo  Astnmomy— the  Trigonometrical  iSurveys-- 
and  the  Navigation  of  the  Indian  Sea.s.  By  Hrt.ii  Mirhay,  Esq., 
r.Il..'^.E.;  Jamis  Wii.s.f,,  F'sii.,  K.R.S.E.  cV  M.W.S.  ;  R.  K.  Guevili.f., 
I.L.I).;  Prom.ssor  Jamkson  ;  VViinii-AW  AiNsi.ii,,  M.D.,  M.R.A.S., 
late  of  the  Meilical  Staft'  of  Southern  India;  William  Rhind,  Es<i., 
M.R.C.S.  ;  Proit.ssor  Wai.lac  K  ;  an'  '-ptain  Clarence  Dalrympli;, 
Hon.  East  India  Comi)any's  Service.     In  li  volumes^ 

With  a  Map  constructed  for  the  Work,  and  Twenty-six  Engravings  by  Uranston. 


I'lUNTED  FOR  OLlVEll  &  BOYD,  EDIKHTUGII  ; 
AND  SIJIl'KiN  A;  MARSHALL,  LONDON. 


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IMIOGRKSS  0\-    I)IS(()VKUV 

l)V  Till 

MOKK  NOUTIIEUN  COASTS 

I  IF 

AMERICA. 


OLIVER   &    BOYD,  EDINnUKGII. 


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imiili'lliiiiir'iiii  «iaa»t<i 


HISTORICAL  VIEW 


OF 

THE  PROGRESS  OF  DISCOVERY 

ov  tut; 

MORE  xNORTHERN  COASTS 

or 

AMERICA, 

KI{(»:M    THK    KAHIilEST    PKRIOP    TO    THE    PHKSENT    TI.'MK. 

BV  PATRICK  FRASER  TYTLER,  ESQ.. 

K.  R.S.  cS;   F.S.A. 

wrrii 

DESCRIPTIVE  SKETCHES 

OK  Till', 

NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  THE  NORTH  AMERICAN 

REGIONS. 

BY  JAWEvS  WILSON,  ESQ.,  F.  R.  S.  E.  &  3I.W.  S. 


TO  WHICH  IS  ADDED  AN  APPENDIX,  CONTAINING 

llEMAHKS  ON  A  LATE  3IEM0IR  OF  SEBASTIAN  CABOT,  Willi 
A   VINDICATION  OF  RICHARD  HAKLl'VT. 


ILHSTRATED  BY  A  MAP,  AND  NINE   ENaRAVIN»;S  BY  JACKSON. 


EDINBURGH: 

OLIVER  &  BOYD,  TWEEDDALE-COURT ; 

AND  SIMPKIN  \  MARSHALL,  LONDON. 
MDCCCXXXII. 


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M«Kf«ffl^.«lJ% 


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2i)4740 


[EXTEHED  I.V  STATIONERS"  HAM..] 


OLivi-H  \  HoYiJ,  Printers. 


J 


PREFACE. 


Among  the  various  Expt'ditions  of  Discovery  i»y 
land  and  sea,  none  liavc  Ix'cn  considered  of  greater 
ini[)ortance,  or  regarded  with  a  deeper  interest,  than 
tliose  into  the  Arctic  Regions.  The  navigator  lias  no- 
wliere  to  contend  with  sucli  forinidahh'  ohstach's^,  nor 
does  he  elsewliere  b«'hokl  an  aspect  of  nature  so  pe- 
culiar. The  Ediniujhgii  C'aijinkt  Liijhauy  com- 
menced with  a  volume  descriptive  of  the  Polar  S<'as 
and  Countries  ;  and  the  poi)ularity  of  that  work  has 
afforded  a  gratifying  proof,  both  of  the  interest  felt 
by  the  public  in  the  subject,  and  of  its  having  been 
treated  iji  a  satisfactory  manner. 

But  there  remained  another  branch  of  adventure 
Kjually  arduous,  which  required  to  be  completed  be- 
fore we  could  be  said  to  have  obtained  a  full  and 
connected  view  of  the  various  efforts  made  to  ex- 
plore the  extreme  north  by  the  nations  of  Europe, 
and  particularly  by  Britain.  We  allude  to  the  ex- 
peditions undertaken,  partly  by  land  and  partly  by 
coast  and  river  navigation,  to  trace  the  limits  of 
America,  where  that  continent  borders  on  the  Arctic 
Circle.  The  scenery,  it  is  well  known,  is  of  th<' 
same  grand  and  impressive  character;  and  the  suc- 
cessive adventurers  were  exposed  to  vicissitudes  if 
possible  still  more  striking  than  those  experienced 


J 


>  f 


PIIKFACE. 


in  the  Polar  Rejjions.  The  tracts,  also,  over  which 
ti icy  passed, — hcin^r  tenanted  l)y  animals  of  remark- 
al)le  and  varied  form,  adorned  by  nature  with  the 
richest  and  most  beautiful  furs, — yielded  numerous 
objects  not  only  of  tlie  hi^diest  interest  to  the  zoolo- 
i,ncal  observer,  but  of  great  value  as  the  materials 
of  an  extensivi?  commerce.  The  present  volume, 
therefore,  which  exhibits  a  view  of  all  tliat  is  im- 
portant in  our  knowledge  of  the  most  remote  ter- 
ritories of  Anu'rica,  when  studied  in  combination 
witli  the  ^'  Polar  Seas  and  Regions,"  of  which  it 
may  be  regarded  as  the  sequel,  will  l)e  found  to  sup- 
ply a  complete  account  of  the  wiiole  series  of  Nortli- 
ern  Discoveries  by  land  and  water. 

Of  this  work  the  Historical  and  Critical  depart- 
ments have  been  contributed  by  Patrick  Fkaser 
Tytleu,  Esq.,  the  distinguished  Author  of  the 
History  of  Scotland,  and  the  Natural  History  by 
James  Wilson,  Esq., — two  gentlemen  whose  names, 
the  publishers  are  confident,  will  furnish  a  sufficient 
security  that  the  task  committed  to  them  has  been 
executed  with  care.  In  the  Appendix  it  has  been 
the  object  of  INIr  Tytler,  not  only  to  vindicate  from  a 
late  attack  the  reputation  of  an  excellent  writer,  but 
if  possible  to  set  at  rest  the  disputed  point  regarding 
the  discovery  of  North  America.  In  this  investi- 
gation he  has  endeavoured  to  unite  the  patient  re- 
search, which  is  absolutely  requisite  for  the  discovery 
of  truth  on  such  a  subject,  with  a  popular  mode  of 
communicating  it.  The  high  qualifications  of  Mr 
Wilson  our  readers  have  already  had  ample  oppor- 
tunities t'>  appreciate ;  and  we  may  add  that,  from 
his  intimate  acquaintance  and  correspondence  with 
Dr  Richardson,  whose  name  stands  so  high  among 


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PREPACK. 


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er  which 
r  remark- 
with  the 
lumerous 
he  zoolo- 
materials 
volume, 
at  is  im- 
iiote  ter- 
bination 
which  it 
I  to  sup- 
f  North- 

depart- 
Fraser 
•  of  the 
Jtory  by 
'  names, 
iflfieient 
as  been 
iS  been 

from  a 
ter,  but 
warding 
nvesti- 
ent  re- 
icovery 
lode  of 
of  Mr 
oppor- 
p  from 
e  with 
imong 


(he  explorers  of  the  Northern  Regions,  he  has  enjov- 
rd  peculiar  advantages  in  preparing  the  interesting 
Sketch. 's  now  subii)itt<'d  to  tlie  public.  The  stu- 
(h'Ht  of  natural  history  who  has  perused  the  sum- 
maries of  African  and  Indian  Zoology  wliich  have 
appeared  in  the  former  volumes  of  the  Edinburgh 
Cabinet  Library,  will  not  fail  to  perceive  their 
increased  value  when  examined  in  connexion  with 
that  now  given,  inasmuch  as  they  afford  the  mate- 
rials of  a  comparative  view  of  the  animal  kingdom 
in  three  principal  divisions  of  our  globe,  and  thereby 
throw  a  valuable  light  on  the  subject  of  zoologiciil 
geography,  which  has  recently  excited  the  attention 
of  the  scientific  world. 

The  ^lap  has  been  constructed  with  the  greatest 
care :  it  comprehends  all  the  recent  Discoveries  ori 
the  northern  boundary  of  America,  a.  d  fully  ex- 
hibits the  routes  of  the  diflcTent  trav.llers*^  and 
navigators  whose  adventures  are  recorded  in  the 
text.  The  Engravings  by  Jackson  illustrate  several 
striking  specimens  of  natural  history,  drawn  chiefly 
from  nature,  and  other  objects  characteristic  of  that 
(luarter  of  the  globe.  There  is  also  a  portrait  of 
Cortes  after  Titian,— executed  in  tlie  first  style  of 
the  art. 

EDis-nrRGH,  .litf/ust  1«H2. 


■M^^ii-fyKihrt^:^ 


CONTENTS. 


CHArXKIl  I. 

DISCOVF.RY  OF  VORTH  AM^.niCA— EARLY  VOYACIES   OF    THK 
rOIlTUOUESE,  FREVCIl,  AND  SPANIARDS. 

First  Discovery  of  Nortli  America  by  John  Cabot— Voyajres  o. 
Sebastian  Cabot— Of  the  Cortereals— Discovery  of  Labrador 
—French  Discoveries— Voyages  of  Verazzano— Of  Jaccines 
Cartier— Discovery  of  Canada— Spanish  Voyages  of  Discovery 
— Cortes — Uiloa — Alarchon — Visciiino, Page  1 7 


CHAPTER  II. 

RUSSIAN  AND  ENGLISH  VOYAGES. 

Behring—Tchirikow—Cook  and  Gierke  —  3Ieares_ Vancouver— 
Kotzebue, };0 


CHAPTER  III. 


HEARNE  AND  SIR  ALEXANDER  MACKENZIE. 

Colonisation  of  Canada— French  Fur  Trade— Rise  of  Hudson  s 
Bay   Company— Hearne's   Three    Joumevs— Nortli-west   Fur 


12 


CONTENTS. 


Company — First  Journey  r)f  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  in  \'JiV.) — 
His  Second  Flxj)e<lilion  in  l/J*'-? ^'•'t?'^'  '•^•' 


CIIArTKK  IV. 

niSCOVERIES  AI.OVG  THE  SHORES  OF  THE  AHCTIC  OCEAK. 

Kirst    and   Second   Expeditions  of  Franklin — Voyage  of  ('aptaiii 
Beechey, 2(t» 


CHAPTER  V. 

I VTRODUCTORY  ORSERVATIONS  TO  THE  NATURAL  HISTORY- 

Amelioration  in  the  Character  of  European  Intercourse  with  uncivil- 
ized Nations — The  Ahsenct?  of  Sandy  Deserts,  a  ^rand  Feature 
in  tlie  Physical  Attrihutes  of  America — General  Boundaries  ot 
the  Districts  afterwards  treated  of  in  Detail — Early  Sources  ot 
Information  re^rdinj^  the  Natural  History  of  North  Americci — 
(ieneral  View  of  the  Fur  Countries — Passages  across  the  Rocky 
Mountains — Plains  and  Valleys  along  the  Pacific  Shore, 2'JIi 


CHAPTER  VI. 

THE  QUADRUPEDS  OF  THE  NORTHERN  REGIONSOF  AMERICA. 

Inaccuracies  of  some  Historical  Writers — No  Monkeys  in  North 
America — Bats — Shrew-mice — Genus  Scalops,  or  Shrew-mole 
— Other  Moles  of  America — The  Star-nose — Various  Bears — 
Different  Digitated  Quadrupeds — The  Canada  Otter — The  Sea- 
otter — The  Dogs  and  M'olves  of  America — The  Foxes — The 
Beaver — The  Musk-rat — Meadow  Mice  and  Lemmings — The 
Uocky  Mountain  Neotoma — The  American  Field-mouse — The 


CONTENTS. 


13 


zie  in  I7»!>— 
Pajfe  l.'J.'i 


IC  OCEAK. 

of  Captain 
2(l» 


HISTOHY. 

■'itli  uncivil- 
nd  Feature 
nndarii's  of 
Sources  of 
America — 
tlie  Rocky 
re, 2m 


■     T 


Manuots — The  S(|uirrel  Triln? — The  Canada  I'orcupine — Thr 
American  Hare — The  Pohir  Hare — The  Prairie  Hare — The 
LittU*  ("iiief  Hare — (lenus  Cerviis — The  Klk,  or  Moos»Mleer — 
The  Hein-<leer — The  \\'(MKihind  Curihou — The  Uockj  ."Nloun- 
tain  Sheep — The  Rocky  Mountain  Goat — Tlie  Hison,  or  Ameri- 
can Buft'alo — The  Musk-ox, Puj^a' Hi;} 


CHAPTER  VII. 

THE  BIRDS  OF  THE  XOllTIIEUX  llEGIONS  OF  AMEllK  A. 

urkev  Buzzard  —  Gohlen-ea^h;  —  Hald-eag'le — Hawks  —  Owls. — 
Butcher-hirds — Kin^-bird — Northern  Tyrant — American  W'uter- 
ouzel  —  Red-I)reasted  Thrusli  —  Bhie-hird —  Arctic  Bhie-hird — 
Cedar-bird,  or  American  Ciiatterer  —  Snow-bunting —  Painted 
Bunting — Pine-j^rosbeak — Evening-j^rosbeak — Scarlet  Tanajj^er 
— Cuckoo-buntiuj^ — Crows — Woodpeckers  — Humming-birds  — 
Swallows — Belted  Kinij;fislier  —  (irouse  — Passenji^er-pi^eon  — 
(jrallatores — Natatores — (iulls — Rocky  Mountain  Golden-eve 
— Bewick's  Swan—  Trumpeter-swan  — White  Pelican  —  Great 
Northern  Diver — Black-throated  Diver — Guillemots, 'i>)l 


iMERlCA. 

in  North 
irew-mole 
Bears — 
The  Sea- 
tes— The 
igs— The 
ise— The 


CHAPTKll  VIII. 

SOME    ACCOUNT    OF    THE    FISHES   AND    OTHEK    ZOOLOGICAL 
PRODUCTIONS  Ol'  THE  NORTHERN  REtUONS  OF  AMERICA. 

Sturgeon  —  Salmon  —  Trout — Char — Cajx^lan — White  Fish — Blue 
Fish — Herring — Pike — Burbot  —  Perch — Bull-head — Northern 
Insects — Their  Natural  Preservation  from  Cold — More  Northern 
Extension  of  Tropical  Forms  in  America  than  in  Europe — Bees 
— Extension  Westwards  of  the  Honey-bee— Diptera — Melville 
Island  Spider — Buttertties, 'AiVi 


1 


14 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEll  IX. 


I  IIARACTERISTIC    FKATIIIKS    IS      TIIK     HOTANY     OF      THi: 
NOUTHKHN  HKdIONSOF  AMKHICA. 


Mr  Urnwn's  ()l)scrvati()n.s  on  tlte  relative  Prf)|)()rtioiis  of  the  Twn 
jrnmt  Divisions  of  Ph{Eno|^moii.s  Plants — lieautifiil  small  Wiilou 
from  Kast  (ireeiilaiid — Notices  of  the  mon?  remarkahle  S|M'cie-> 
collected  by  l)r  Hidiardson — Galium  Tinctoriiim — Cornus  AIha 
— Phlox  IlrKKlii — Vihurnnm  Kdide — Azalea  Niidicaiilis — Liliiini 
Philadelphicnm — Epilohiiini  An^iistifolium — Ledum  I^atifolium — 
I,.  Palustre — Primus  Virj^iniana — Pyrus  Ovalis — Crepis  Nana — 
Cineraria  Conj^esta — Pinus  Nigra — P.  Alba — P.  Oanksiana — P. 
MicrocarjKi — P.  Lamlwrtiana-  -Knux'tnmi Nigrum — Myrica Galf 
— Populus  Trepida — Populus  Balsamiiera — Junijwrus  Prostrata 
— Splachnum  Mnioides— Dicranum  Ehjiigtituni — GjTophora  pm- 
boscidca — Hy|x»rlK)rea  Pennsylvanica,  Mecklenl>ergii,  vellea — 
Cetraria  Richardsonii — Fucus  Ceranoides — Difficulties  in  the  De- 
teniiination  of  Arctic  Species — Plants  recently  introduced  to  the 
British  Gardens — Lathyrus  Decaphyllus — Eutoca  Franklinii — 
Lupinus  Littctralis — Clarkia  Pulchella — Gerardia  Capitata — New 
D(Klecatheon — Androm'^da  1'»;tragona — Menziesia  Empetrift)lia 
— Azalea  LapjK)nica — Diyas  Drunimondia, Page  31)1' 


1 

I 


CHAPTEll  X. 

SKETCH  OF  THE  GEOLOGICAL   FEATURES   OF    SOJME   OF    THE 
NORTHERN  DISTRICTS  OF  AMERICA. 

Frozen  Subsoil  of  Hudson's  Bay — Primitive  Rocks  of  Hayes  Ri- 
ver— Hill  River — Borders  of  Knee  Lake — Remarkable  Rock- 
island  of  Magnetic  Iron  Ore — Lake  \Vini|)eg — Limestone  Dis- 
trict— Fort  Chij)ewvan — Carp  Lake — Gneiss  Formation  of  the 

7 


1 


(  ONTKNTS. 


ir. 


OF     THi; 

)f  tlie  Two 
nail  Willow 
ble  S|K»c-itvs 
orniis  AIha 
lis — Liliuni 
atit'olium— 
;)i.s  Nana — 
ksiana — P. 
lyricaGalf 
>  Frostrata 
•phora  pri>- 
i,  vellea — 
in  the  De- 
iced  to  tile 
ranklinii— 
ata — New 
upetrifolia 
.Page  31»» 


Baneii  (irniinds — Tran.s|)arpnt   Waters  of  (ireat    Hear   Lake 

Knit  Franklin — Hear  I,;ik«'  Miver — I,ii;;iiite  l-'orniatiori  otMai  • 
ken/.ie    Uiver — SjMmtaneons    Fire — Pi[M'-elav — Alluvii-.l    I>l;in«|s 

at    the   Mouth  of  the  Maekeiizie — ('iip|H>r    Moiintain.s ConiMT- 

inine  River — Islands  of  the  Aretic  Si-a — Arctic  Sliore_('ar)c 
Harrow — Cialena  Point  —  M«M»re's  Bay — liankes'  Peninsula Har- 
ry's Island — ('a{K>  Ooker — Point  Tiirna^in — (ieneral  Occur- 
rence of  the  New  Hed  Sandstone — IIocmI's  Itiver — WilU'rllirt  »• 
Falls—Clneiss  Formation— (ieneral  Siunniaiy, Pa^'e  4(M 


APPENDIX. 

Hkmahks  on    a    Late    Memoih  oi    Sehastiax  (ahot. 
uiTu  A  Vindication  or  Hkiiard  IIakluyt,.. 417 


OF  the 


iayes  Ri- 
ile  Rock- 
:one  Dis- 
)n  of  the 


KX(;  RAVINGS. 


Mai*  of  the  Nortlicrn  Coasts  of  America,.  ••  Tojnce  the  VifpietU-. 
VKiXKTTE — Sc'ciic  near  Mount  Coplostoiu',  or  Western  Ter- 
mination of  the  Roeky  Monntains. 

Portrait  of  I lernan  ('ortes, f<i!lf    '"' 

(iroup  of  Ks({uimanx  West  of  the  Mackenzie  River, 2<Ill 

( I riz/l y  Bear, 32 1 

American  Gray  V^'olf, ',V2\\ 

Hare  Indian  or  Mackenzie  River  Doj^, !W1 

1  lead  of  the  American  Black  Kik, Ii4r» 

Rocky  Mountain  Goat,  and  Rocky  Mountain  Sheep,.. .'14!» 

Sabine's  Gull, 3H0 


iMio(;i?ESs  or  disc oveuy 


ON  THE 


MOHK  NOUTIIEKN  COASTS 


or 


//'  I'ifjnctU: 
ern  Ter- 

...Pa>/r    .'»{ 

:2»;il 

3-Jl 

'A'2\i 

xn 

:i4A 

:u!» 

yiiu 


A31E1UCA. 


CHArTKK  I. 

Diicovcrjf  of  North   Amtrica — Knrhi   Voiioyea  of  tlir 
rorttiijime,  French,  and  Spanianhi. 

First  Disoovorv  of"  North  AiniMica  hv  .John  ralK)t — Voya^'s  of 
Sebastian  Cabot — Of  tlio  Cortcrcals — Discovery  of  Lal)rador 
—  French  Discoveries—  Voyages  ot"  Vera/.zano— Of  .laccjiies 
('artier— Discovery  ol"  Canada— Spanish  Voyaj^es  of  Discovery 
Cortes — UUoa — Alarchon — Viscaino. 

WiiKN  we  peruse  the  lives  of  such  men  as  De  Gania 
and  Colunilms,  and  consider  the  complicated  dif- 
ficulties overcome  hy  these  early  navigators,  their 
imperfect  means,  and  the  dark  and  defective  state  of 
their  knowledge,  it  is  diHicult  to  repress  astonish- 
ment at  the  success  which  attended  their  exertions, 
and  the  magnitude  and  splendourof  their  discoveries. 
In  reflecting,  indeed,  upon  so  great  a  theme  as  the 
revelation  of  a  new  world,  it  becomes  us  to  raise  our 
minds  from  the  region  of  second  v'auses  to  the  awful 
contemplation  of  that  Almighty  Being,  who  con- 


18 


COLUMBUS. 


rouiuls  tlu?  calculations  of  man  l)y  l)rin<,nnfj  stupen- 
dous results  out  of  the  fcchUst  human  preparations; 
and  it  is  one  of  the  fiiK'St  features  in  the  charact<'r 
of  Coluinhus,  that  he  invariably  acted  under  the  con- 
viction of  heiii'^  selected  l»v  (rod  for  ;he  task  which 
he  at  len^dh  aecomj)lished  ;  hut  the  admiration  with 
wliich  we  re<i[ard  this  ^reat  n)an,  and  that  helonf^s, 
though  in  an  inferior  de^iree,  to  many  of  li is  contem- 
poraries in  the  field  of  discovery,  is  enhanced  rather 
than  (liminishedhythis  union  of  simple  and  primitive 
faith  with  ardent  ^^enius  and  undaunted  resolution. 
A  former  volume  has  been  devoted  to  the  de- 
scrij)tion  of  the  dar:n<j  eiTorts  which  iiave  been  made 
to  <'xplore  the  Polar  Seas ;  and  we  now  proceed  to 
direct  our  attention  to  another,  and  a  no  less  interest- 
ing and  important  chapter  in  tlu;  history  of  human 
enter|)rise, — the  discovery  of  North  America,  and 
the  progress  of  maritime  adventure  on  the  more 
northern  coasts  of  this  vast  continent.  Without  de- 
tracting in  any  degree  from  the  fame  of  Columbus, 
it  mav  be  mentioned  as  a  remarkable  circumstance, 
that  although  th.e  admiral  landed  in  Ilispaniola  as 
arly  as  the  4th  of  February  1-41)3,  he  did  not  as- 
certain the  existence  of  the  continent  of  South 
America  till  tlK>  30th  of  i\Iay  \4\)H;  w»liilst  there  is 
certain  (Evidence  th.at,  almost  a  year  before,  an  Eng- 
lish vessel  had  reached  tlie  shores  of  North  America. 
As  much  obscurity  hangs  over  the  circumstances  of 
tliis  early  voyage,  and  as  I  have  arrived  at  a  conclu- 
sion  completely  at  variance  with  that  adopted  by  a 
late  acute  writer,  •'  it  will  oe  necessary  to  dwell  with 
some  minuteness  on  the  liistory  of  this  great  event. 

*  Tht;  author  of  t}ie  Mi>nioir  oC  Sohastian  (.'ahot,  [)[).  50,  ."»|,  an 
ananymuus  %v(!ik  (Loiuloii,  IBUl),  \v!;icli  contains  nuicli  iii^eiiious 


e 


JOIIX  CABOT. 


ID 


[J  stiipon- 
arations; 
character 
r  the  coii- 
sk  wliicli 
tion  witli 

icontcni- 
L'd  rather 
primitive 
'Solution. 
>  the  de- 
;»eii  made 
roceed  to 
interest- 
f  liumaii 
rica,  and 
lie  more 
lout  de- 
)!umhus, 
nistanee;, 
iuiiola  as 
I  not  as- 
f  South 
;  tliere  is 
an  FjUg- 
Vnurica. 
taiices  of 
,  conclu- 
ted  hy  a 
ell  with 
event. 

o(>,  ;"i|,  an 
iii'renioiis 


The  attention  paid  to  navigation  by  th(>  conmuT- 
cial  states  of  Italy,  and  especially  hy  the  republics 
ofCrenoaand  Venice,  is  iainiliar  to  all  ac(juainted 
with   the  history  of  Europe  durinn  the  liftt'enlh 
century.     Italian  merchants  and  a^jents  of  opulent 
commercial  housi's  were  found  settled  in  every  Eu- 
ropean   state  ;  and   the   impetus  communicated   to 
the  human  mind  by  the  discoveries  of  the  Portu- 
ijuese  and  the  Spaniards  rendered  the  sciences  of 
<'Osniotirapliy  and  navi^^alion  the  most  popular  sub- 
jects of  instruction  which  were  taui^ht  in  the  schools. 
A  devotion  to  them  became  fashionable  amonjjf  the 
noble  and  ardent  youths,  who  associated  with  them 
all   that  was  romantic   and  deliuhtful  ;    tliey  wen 
considered  as  the  certain  guides  to  darinij  and  suc- 
cessful maritime  adventure,  a^'d  the  handmaids  to 
wealth   and  fame.     It  wus  about  this  momentous 
period,  in  the  year  J4J)4,  that  we  lind  a  Wiietiaii. 
naiiK^d  John  Cabot  or  Gabota,  residing  in  the  opu- 
lent city  of  Bristol.    At  what  precise  time   he   set- 
tled in  England  is  not  now  discoverable  ;  we  on!v 
know  that  he  left  Italy  for  the  purpose  of  devotiiii: 
himself  to  the  mercantile  profession.     He  was  on" 
of  those  enthusiastic  spirits  upon  whom  the  career  of 
Columbus  made  a  deep  impression  ;  and  about  a  year 
after  the  return  of  the  grcjit  GiMioese  from  his  first 
voyaf,H\  the   merchant  of  Bristol   a}){)ears   to   have 
embraced   the   idea  that  new  huids  niiijht  be  dis- 
covered in  the  north-west,  and  a  [)assa^('  in  all  pro- 

critirisin  and  \aliiahl('  research.  It  is,  li()\v(>ver,  uiiiiappilv  ioiii'iised 
in  its  arran^i'iiieiit,  and  written  thrdUij^-Iioiit  in  a  torn-  uf  as|)eiit\ 
uliieli,  in  the  disenssion  (if  a  siilijeet  (»l  renioto  hio^rapliv,  is  nnpiea- 
>ant  and  uncalled  for.  The  aiitlior  has  h'cn  nnjn-^tly  se\en.'  in  iiis 
animadversions  on  tiie  labours  of  Hakh'.yt,  of  wlicni  a  brief  ^'in(!:- 
calion  will  he  fouiid  at  the  end  ol'liiis  noIuiu''. 


20 


JOHN  CABOT  AM)  IIKNRY  VII. 


habilitv  attained  l)V  this  course  to  India.  •    Animated 
hy  siu'li  a  project,  Cahot  addressed  himself  to  Henry 
VII.,   and  found   immediate  encouraijenii'nt   from 
that  monarch,  who,  though  of  a  cold  and  cautious 
disposition,  was  seldom  alow  to  listen  to  any  proposal 
which  pnmiised  an  increase  of  wealth  to  his  exche- 
quer.   On  the  oth  of  IMarch  llilf),  the  kintj  granted 
his  roval  commission  to  John  Cahot,  citizen  of  Ve- 
nice,  and  his  sons,  Louis,  Sebastian,  and  Sanchez, 
committing  to  him  and   them,  and  to  their  heirs 
and  deputies,  full  authority  to  sail  to  all  countries 
and  seas  of  the  East,  West,  and  North,  under  the 
banner  of  En<Tland,    with  five  shij)s  of  whatever 
burden  and  strength  in  mariners  they  might  choose 
to  employ.     The  equipment  of  this  squadron  was 
cautiously  stipulated  to  bo  made    "  at  their  own 
proper  costs  and  charges ;"  and  its  object  stated  to 
1)0  the  discovery  of  the  isles,  regions,  and  provin- 
ces of  the  Heathen   and  I)ifid(>ls,   which   hitherto 
had  been  unknown  to  all  the  nations  of  Christen- 
dom, in  whatever  part  of  the  globe  they  might  be 
placed.     By  the  same  deed  the  Cabots  were  em- 
powered to  set  up  the  banners  aiid  ensigns  of  Eng- 
land in  the  newly-discovered  countries  ;  to  subdue 
and  possess  them  as  lieutenants  of  the  king;  and  to 
enjoy  the  privilege  of  exclusive  trade; — the  wary 
monarch,  however,  annexing  to  these  privileges  the 
condition,  that  he  was  to  receive  the  fifth  part  of  the 
capital  gain  upon  every  voyage,  and  binding  their 
ships  to  return  to  the  port  of  Bristol. t 


tl 
<• 

ai 
a 


*  Tirahosclii,  Storia  dolla  LotttT.  Itul.,  vol.  vi.  b.  i.  cap.  fl.  §  24. 
-|-  I  have  neailv  I'olluwod  tlie  uonls  of  this  important  document, 
which  ib  still  liieserved.    Hymer,  l^a^deia  Ai)glia^,  vol.  xii.  p.  5Uo. 


JOHN  CABOT  DISCOVERS  NORTH  AMERICA. 


21 


Animated 
to  Ilcnrv 
K'lit  from 
1  cautious 
V  proposal 
lis  cxchc- 
iff^^rantcd 
*n  of  Ve- 
Saiu'hcz, 
lieir  Jicirs 
countries 
mdcr  the 
whatever 
ht  cl loose 
iron  was 
heir  own 
stated  to 
i  I)rovin- 

hitherto 
'hristen- 
iiight  be 
ere  em. 
of  Eng. 

subdue 
;  and  to 
le  wary 
leges  the 
irtof  the 
iig  their 


|).  ♦».  §  24. 
<lociin)ent, 
p.  d\io. 


Two  imj>ortant  facts  are  ascertained  l)y  this  au- 
thentic document :  It  proves  that  Jolm  C^almt,  a 
citizen  of  Venice,  was  the  principal  author  of,  and 
adventurer  in,  the  project ;  and  that  no  voyage  with 
a  similar  object  had  been  undertaken  prior  to  the 
oth  of  iAIarch  U9."). 

TIk'  expedition,  however,  did  not  sail  till  the 
spring  of  14i>7>  more  than  a  twelvemonth  subse- 
quent to  the  date  of  the  original  commission.  What 
occasioned  this  delay  it  is  now  difficult  to  deter- 
mine  ;  but,  as  the  lleet  was  to  be  equipped  at  the 
tjole  expense  of  the  adventurers,  it  is  not  impro- 
bable that  Cabot  had  required  the  interval  to  raise 
the  necessary  capital.  It  is  much  to  be  regretted 
that  in  no  contemporary  chronicle  is  there  any  de- 
tailed account  of  the  voyage.  We  know,  however, 
that  it  was  conducted  by  John  Cabot  in  person, 
who  took  with  him  his  son  Sebastian,  then  a  verv 
young  man.  Its  result  was  undoubtedly  the  dis- 
covery of  North  America ;  and  although  the  parti- 
culars of  this  great  event  are  lost,  its  exact  date  has 
been  recorded  by  an  unexceptionable  witness,  not 
only  to  a  day  but  even  to  an  hour.  On  an  ancient 
map,  drawn  by  Sebastian  Cabot,  the  son,  whose  name 
appears  in  the  commission  by  the  king,  engraved  by 
Clement  Adams,  a  contemporary,  and  published,  as 
there  is  reason  to  believe,  under  the  eye  of  Sebastian, 
was  written  in  Latin  the  following  brief  but  clear 
and  satisfactory  account  of  the  discovery : — "  In  the 
year  of  our  Lord  1497,  John  Cabot,  a  Venetian,  and 
his  son  Sebastian,  discovered  that  country,  which 
no  one  before  his  time  had  ventured  to  approadi,  on 
the  24th  of  June,  about  five  o'clock  in  the  morning. 
He  called  the  land  Terra  Primum  Visa,  because,  as 


»Wf««w»«n|ki».t 


oo 


DISCOVERY  OF  NORTH  AMERICA 


I  cojijccturc,  this  ^vas  the  place  tliat  first  met  liiscvcs 
ill  look  inn  from  tlie  sea.  On  the  contrarv,  the  island 
which  lies  ()])i)osite  the  land  he  called  the  Island  of 
St  John, — as  I  suj){)ose;,  because  it  was  discovered  on 
tile  festival  of  St  John  the  Baptist.  The  inhabitants 
wear  beasts'  skins  and  the  intestines  of  animals  for 
clothing,  esteeniin<r  them  as  higiily  as  we  do  our 
most  precious  garments.  In  war  their  weapons  are 
the  bow  and  arrow,  sj)ears,  darts,  slings,  and  wooden 
<'lubs.  The  country  is  steril  and  uncultivated,  pro- 
ducing no  fruit ;  from  which  circumstance  it  iiappens 
tliat  it  is  crowded  with  white  bears,  and  stags  of  an 
unusual  height  and  size.  It  yields  plenty  of  fish,  and 
these  very  large ;  such  as  seals  and  salmon :  there 
are  soles  also  above  an  ell  in  length  ;  but  especially 
great  abundance  of  that  1  'nd  of  fisli  called  in  the 
vulgar  tongue  Baccalaos.  In  the  same  island,  also, 
breed  hawks,  so  black  in  their  colour  that  they  won- 
derfully resemble  ravens ;  besides  which  there  are 
partridges  and  eagles  of  dark  plumage.""" 

Such  is  the  notice  of  the  discovery  of  North  Ame- 
rica ;  and  as  some  doubt  has  lately  been  thrown 
upon  the  subject,  it  may  be  remarked  that  the  evi- 
dence of  the  fact  contained  in  this  inscription  is 
perfectly  unexce})tionable.  It  conies  from  Clement 
Adams,  the  intimate  friend  of  Richard  Chancelor ; 
and  Chancelor  lived,  as  is  well  known,  in  habits  of 
daily  intercourse  with  Sebastian  Cabot,  who  accom- 
panied his  father  on  the  first  voyage  of  discovery. 
Unfortunately,  both  the  original  map  and  the  en- 
graving are  lost ;  but  happily  Purchas  lias  preserved 
the  information,  that  the  engraved  map  by  Adams 
bore  the  date  of  1549  ;t  at  which  time  Sebastian 

*  Ilakluyl,  vol.  iii.  p.  ().       -f  Purchas'  I'il^niius,  vol.  iii.  p.  ii07. 


C{ 
fr( 


th 

SCI 


'b 


am  MtMK'jf^fK 


BY  JOHN  CAJJOT. 


2:^ 


t  li is  eves 
iu'  island 
Island  of 
)V('r(,'d  on 
labitaiits 
nials  for 
do  our 
pons  are 
wooden 
ted,  pro- 
iiappens 
igs  of  an 
fish,  and 
1 ;  there 
specially 
cl  in  the 
mi,  also, 
ey  won- 
here  are 

h  Ame- 
throvvn 
tile  evi- 
ction is 
'lenient 
n  eel  or ; 
abits  of 
aeeom- 
c'overv. 
he  en- 
'served 
\dains 
)astian 

pTyoTT 


Cabot  was  in  such  ffn'at  reputation  at  the  court  of 
Kdward  \'I.,  tliat  for  his  services  he  liad  received  a 
princely  pension.  This  youni;  monarch,  as  we  learn 
from  liurnet,  showed  a  [)eculiar  fondness  for  mari- 
time atrairs.  lie  possessed  a  collection  of  charts, 
which  w<'re  huni^  up  in  his  cabinet,  and  amoiiirst 
them  v.as  t!ie  en^ravinij  of  (-abot's  map.  The  in- 
scription, therefor<',  mrst  have  been  seen  there  and 
elsev/liere  by  Sebastian  ;  and,  when  we  consider  that 
the  date  of  the  en^ravin<r  corn  sponds  with  the  time 
when  he  was  in  hit,di  lavour  with  the  kin*,',  it  does 
I'Ot  seem  imj)robable  that  this  naviijator,  to  gratify 
his  youthful  and  royal  patron,  emj)loyed  Adams  to 
engrave  from  his  own  chart  the  map  of  North  Ame- 
rica and  that  the  facts  stated  in  the  inscription  were 
furnished  by  himself.  The  singular  minuteness  of 
its  terms  seems  to  j)rove  this ;  for  who  but  he,  or 
some  one  personally  })resent,  after  the  lapse  of  fifty- 
two  years,  could  have  communicated  the  informa- 
tion  that  the  discovery  was  made  about  live  o'clock 
in  the  morning  of  the  24tli  June  ?  If,  however,  tl\is 
is  questioned  as  being  conjectural,  the  fact  that  Se- 
bastian  must  have  seen  the  inscription  is  sullicient 
to  render  the  evidence  perfectly  conclusive  upon 
the  important  point  of  John  Cabot  being  the  dis- 
coverer of  North  America.  That  he  had  along 
with  him  in  his  ship  his  son  Sebastian,  cannot,  we 
think,  in  the  opinion  of  any  impartial  person,  detract 
from  or  infringe  upon  the  merit  of  the  father.  But, 
to  complete  the  proof,  a  late  writer  has  availed 
himself  of  an  imperfect  extract  from  a  record  of 
the  rolls,  furnished  by  the  industrious  Hakluyt,  to 
discover  an  original  document  which  sets  the  matter 
altogether  at  rest.     This  is  the  second  commission 


24 


DISCOVERY  OF  NORTH  AMERICA. 


for  discovery,  granted  by  Henry  VII.  on  tlie  3d  of 
February,  and  in  t!ie  thirieentli  year  of  his  reign,  to 
the  same  individual  who  conducted  the  first  expedi- 
tion. The  letters  are  directed  to  John  Kabotto,  Ve- 
netian, and  permit  him  to  sail  with  six  ships  "to  the 
land  and  isles  of  late  found  by  the  said  John  in  our 
name  and  by  our  commandm(»nt." '•  It  presents  a  sin- 
gular picture  of  the  inability  of  an  ingenious  and 
otherwise  acute  mind  to  estimate  the  weight  of  his- 
torical evidence,  when  we  find  the  biographer  of  Se- 
bastian Cabot  insisting,  in  the  face  of  such  a  proof  as 
this,  that  the  glory  of  the  first  discovery  of  North 
America  is  solely  due  to  Sebastian,  and  that  it  may 
actually  be  doubted  whether  his  father  accompanied 
the  expedition  at  all.t 

Immediately  after  the  discovery  the  elder  Cabot 
appears  to  have  returned  to  England;  and  on  the  10th 
of  August  we  find,  in  the  privy  purse  expenses  of 
Henry  VII.,  the  sum  of  ten  pounds  awarded  to  him 
who  found  the  New  Isle,  which  was  probably  the 
name  then  given  to  Newfoundland.  Although  much 
engrossed  at  this  moment  with  the  troubles  which 
arose  in  his  kingdom  in  consequence  of  the  Cornish 
rebellion,  the  war  with  Scotland,  and  the  attempt 
upon  the  crown  by  Perkin  Warbeck,  the  king  deter- 
mined to  pursue  the  enterprise,  and  to  encourage  a 
scheme  for  colonization  under  the  conduct  of  the  ori- 
ginal discoverer.  To  this  enterprising  navigator  he, 
on  the  .3d  of  February  14974  granted  those  second 
letters-patent  just  alluded  to,  which  conferred  an 
ampler  authority  and  more  favourable  terms  than 
the  first  commission.  He  empowered  John  Kabotto, 


V( 

wii 

lail 

roj 

onl 

sul 

bal 

thl 


*  Memoir  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  p.  7'j« 
J  Old  st}le,_14y}},  new  style. 


f  Ibid.  \u  m. 


JOHN  CABOT  KNIfiHTED. 


2r. 


tlK'  3d  of 
i  reign,  to 
it  expedi- 
)otto,  Ve- 
s  "to  the 
111!  in  our 
!ntsasin- 
lious  and 
lit  of  liis- 
ler  of  Se- 
i  proof  as 
of  North 
it  it  may 
mpanied 

er  Cabot 
the  10th 
)enses  of 
1  to  him 
ably  the 
?h  much 
s  which 
Cornish 
attempt 
g  deter- 
>urage  a 
the  ori- 
ator  he, 
second 
[•red  an 
IS  than 
'abotto, 

p.5U. 


Venetian,  to  take  at  his  pleasure  six  English  ships, 
with  their  necessary  apparel,  and  to  lead  them  to  the 
land  and  isles  lately  found  by  him  according  to  the 
royal  command,  ('abot  was  also  permitted  to  receive 
on  board  all  such  masters,  mariners,  pages,  and  other 
subjects,  as  chose  to  accompany  him ;  and  it  seems  pro- 
bable, from  some  entries  in  the  privy  purse  expenses, 
that  Launcelot  Thirkill  of  London,  Thomas  Brad- 
ley, and  John  Carter,  embarked  in  the  adventure.* 
When  about  to  set  sail  on  his  second  voyage^  John 
Cabot,  who  had  previously  received  from  Henry  the 
honour  of  knighthood,  appears,  from  some  cause  not 
now  discoverable,  to  have  been  prevented  from  taking 
the  command  ;t  and  though  the  name  of  Sebastian 
was  not  included  in  the  second  royal  commission,  h(» 
waspromoted  to  the  situation  left  vacant  by  his  father. 
He  must  still  indeed  have  been  a  young  man ;  but  he 
had  accompanied  the  first  voyage,  and  at  an  early 
age  developed  that  genius  for  naval  enterprise  which 
afterwards  so  remarkably  distinguished  him.     We 
know  from  his  account  of  liimself  that,  at  the  time 
his  parents  carried  him  from  Venice  to  London,  he 
had  attained  some  knowledge  of  the  sphere;    and 
when  about  this  period  the  great  discovery  of  Colum- 
bus began  to  be  talked  of  in  England  as  a  thing  almost 
more  divine  than  human,  the  effect  of  it  upon  his 
youthful  imagination  was  to  excite  "  a  mighty  long- 
ing," to  use  his  own  words,  "  and  burning  desire  in 
his  heart  that  he  too  should  perform  some  illustrious 


*  Sec  Mr  Xioholas'  excellent  collection  entitled  Excerpta  His- 
torica,  pp.  IKI,  11 7. 

•j-  The  cause  mi^lit  be  his  death  ;  hut  this  is  conjecture, — of  the 
tact  there  is  no  direct  proof:  of  the  knighthood  it  is  not  possible  to 
doubt.  See,  in  the  Vindication  of  Hakluyt,  the  remarks  on  the  er- 
rors of  the  biographer  of  Cabot  in  his  chapter  on  this  subject. 


26 


SEBASTIAN  CABOT  : 


action. "■••  With  such  dispositions  wo  may  easily 
iina{,nn(*  liow  rapid  must  have  been  his  prourcss  in 
naval  science,  witli  the  Ijcncfit  of  liis  father's  ex- 
aniph*  and  instructions.  It  is  not  matter  of  sur- 
prise therefore,  that,  tliouijlj  prohal)!ynot  more  than 
twenty-three  years  old,  the  conduct  of  tiie  enter- 
pris(?  was  intrusted  to  him.  He  accordingly  sailed 
from  Euiiland  with  two  ships  in  the  sunnner  of 
}4\)U,  and  directing  his  course;  hy  Iceland  soon  reach- 
ed Newfoundland,  which  lie  called  Terra  do  JJacca- 
laos,  from  the  ^reat  quantity  of  fish  of  that  name. 

Of  this  remarkahle  voyage  a  short  account  is  pre- 
served by  Peter  iMartvr,  the  historian  of  the  New 
World,  a  writer  of  high  authority,  and  so  intimate 
a  friend  of  the  navigator,  that,  at  the  time  he  wrote 
the  passage  which  we  now  give,  Sebastian  was  in  the 
iiabit  of  paying  liim  frequent  visits  at  his  house. 
"''  These  northern  seas,"  says  this  writer,  "  have  been 
navigated  and  explored  by  Sebastian  C^abot,  a  Vene- 
tian by  birth,  whom  his  parents,  w  hen  they  were  set- 
ting out  to  settle  in  Britain,  according  to  the  common 
custom  of  the  Venetians,  who  for  the  sake  of  com- 
mercial adventure  become  citizens  of  every  country, 
carried  along  with  them  when  he  was  little  more  than 
an  infant.t  He  fitted  out  two  ships  in  England  at 
his  own  charges,  and  first  with  three  hundred  men 
directed  his  course  so  far  towards  the  North  Pole, 
that  even  in  the  month  of  July  Ire  found  great 
heaps  of  ice  swimming  in  tlie  sea,  and  almost  con- 
tinual daylight.    Yet  he  saw  tlic  land  free  from  ice. 


w 

ob 

<•(> 

an 

fai 

nil 

eq 

of 

tu 
hi 
en 


*  Uaniusio,  Viaj;;gi,  vol.  i.  p.  414. 

■f  Cabot  was  Iwrn  in  Eiit^Iand,  and  carried  by  his  father  into  Italy 
when  tour  years  old.  He  was  afterwards  brought  liack  to  I'lngland 
when  a  youth,  "  assai  g-iovane." — Rauuisio,  vol.  L  p.  414.  Memoir 
of  Calx)t,  J).  ij\i. 


3IAUTYU  S  ACCOUNT  OF  HIS  VOVA(}i:. 


27 


lav  easily 
roirrcss  in 
tiler's  ex- 

r  of  sur- 
norc  than 
lie  cntcr- 
i:ly  sailed 
iiiinicr  of 
on  rcacli- 

o  Ijacca- 

nanie. 
nt  is  [)r('- 

tlic  New 

intimate 
lie  wrote 
'as  in  the 
s  house, 
ave  been 
,  a  Vene- 
vvere  set- 
common 

of  eora- 
countrv, 
lore  than 
gland  at 
red  men 
th  Pole, 
id  great 
ost  con- 
rom  ice^ 


into  Italy 

I)  I'liig-land 

McMiioii 


whieh  had  been  melted  by  the  heat  of  the  sun.  Thus, 
observing  sueh  masses  of  iee  before  him,  he  was 
eompclled  to  turn  his  sails  and  follow  the  west; 
and,  coasting  still  by  t!ie  shore,  was  brought  so 
far  into  the  south,  by  reason  of  the  land  bending 
much  to  the  soutliward,  that  U  was  there  almost 
equal  in  latitude  with  the  sea  called  Fretum  II(T- 
<'uleum.  He  sailed  to  the  west  till  he  had  the  Island 
of  ('uba  on  his  b'ft  hand,  almost  in  the  same  'ongi- 
tude.  As  he  passed  along  those  coasts,  called  by 
him  Baccalaos,  he  aflirmed  that  he  found  the  same 
cru'rent  of  the  waters  towar^'.s  the  west  whicli  tlu' 
Spaniards  met  with  in  the  southern  navigations, 
with  the  single  difference  that  they  flowed  more  gent- 
ly. From  this  circumstance  it  appears  to  me,"  says 
iMartyr,  ''  not  only  a  probable,  but  an  almost  ne- 
cessary conclusion,  tbat  there  must  exist,  between 
both  the  continents  liiLherto  unknown,  great  gaps  or 
«)pen  places,  through  which  the  waters  continually 
pass  from  the  east  to  th(;  west.  *  "  '^'  Sebas- 
tian Cabot  himself  named  these  lands  Baccalaos, 
because  in  tlie  seas  thereabout  he  found  such  an 
immense  multitude  of  large  fish  like  tunnies,  called 
baccalaos  by  the  natives,  that  they  actually  imped- 
ed the  sailing  of  his  sliips.  He  found  also  the  in- 
habitants of  these  regions  covered  with  beasts'  skins, 
vet  not  without  the  use  of  reason.  He  also  relates 
that  tliere  are  plenty  of  bears  in  these  parts,  which 
feed  upon  fish.  It  is  the  practice  of  these  animals 
to  throw  tluTiiselves  into  tlie  midst  of  tlie  shoals  of 
fish,  and,  each  seizing  his  prey,  to  bury  their  claws 
in  the  scales,  drag  them  to  land,  and  there  devour 
them.  On  this  account  he  says,  that  these  bears 
meddle  little  with  men.     '■■     '•     ''•'     Cabot  is  my 


28 


SEBASTIAN  CABOT  : 


iiitiniato  friend,  and  one  whom  it  is  my  dclicht  to 
iiavc  frcquc'ntly  under  my  roof;  for,  Ix'in^  called  out 
of  En^jland  by  tlie  command  of  tlw;  King  of  C'astile 
after  the  deatli  of  Ileiirv  VII.,  he  was  made  one 
of  our  council  and  assistsuits  relating  to  the  affairs 
of  the  new  Indies  ;  and  he  looks  daily  for  ships  to  l)e 
fitted  out  for  him  that  he  may  discover  this  hidden 
secret  of  nature.  I  expect,"  concludes  Peter  Martyr, 
'^  that  he  will  be  able  to  set  out  on  his  voyage  during 
the  course  of  the  next  year,  LIK),  and  in  tlie  month 
of  iMarcli."^'  When  it  is  known  that  8el)astian  Ca- 
lx)t's  second  voyaget  fi'om  England  to  North  Ame- 
rica did  not  take  place  till  ir>17>  it  beccmes  certain 
that  the  above  passage,  written  in  lol;"),  must  relate 
to  the  expedition  of  1498;  and  remembering  that 
the  aathor  was  personally  intimate  with  this  navi- 
gator, and  wrote  only  seventeen  years  after  the  voy- 
age had  taken  place,  we  are  inclined  to  set  a  high 
value  on  such  an  authority.  It  is  deeply  to  be  re- 
gretted that  the  original  maps  drawn  by  so  eminent 
a  discoverer,  and  the  discourses  with  which  he  il- 
lustrated them,  are  now  lost ;  J  but  in  this  deficiency 
of  original  materials  the  work  of  Ramusio, — a  collec- 
tor of  voyages  who  was  a  contemporary  of  Cabot, — 
supplies  some  valuable  information. 

In  the  first  volume  of  his  Voyages  this  amusing 
writer  has  introduced  a  discourse  upon  the  different 

*  Peter  Martyr,  De  Orbe  Novd,  lid  decad.  cat).  H.  l^dition  bjr 
Hakliiyt,  p.  2H2."_Eden's  Translation  in  Willes' Hist,  of  Travayle, 
p.  12o. — The  hidden  secret,  or  natural  phenomenon,  of  which  Cahot 
was  expected  to  penetrate  the  cause,  is  stated  by  Martyr  at  p.  231, 
— it  was  to  resolve  the  (juestion,  "  Why  the  seas  in  these  parts  run 
with  so  swiit  a  current  from  the  east  to  tiie  west:'" 

■f-  Althoufrh  the  son  acconnxmied  the  father,  I  consider  the  voy- 
age of  1497  as  solely  conducted  by  John  Cabot. 

;J:  Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  41. 


rf 

C( 

tl 


HIS  VOYAGE  TO  AMKUICA. 


2<) 


delight  to 
calk'd  out 
of  C'astile 
made  ono 
tln'  affairs 
iliips  to  l)(> 
lis  liiddon 
r  INIartyr, 
ige  during 
he  montli 
istian  Ca- 
rth  Anie- 
es  certain 
ust  relate 
ring  that 
his  navi- 
the  vov- 
ft  a  high 
to  be  re- 
eminent 
ell  he  il- 
efieiency 
a  eollec- 
Cabotj — 

amusing 
different 

I-dition  by 
I'ravayle, 
liicli  Cabot 
•  at  p.  231, 
e  parts  run 

r  the  vov- 


routes  !>v  which   the  spices  of  the  East  were  con- 
vev't'd  in  ancient  times  to  Europe;  and  towards  the 
conclusion  of  the  essay  he  brings  in  a  subject  which 
then  deeply  occuj)ied  the  attention  of  learned  men, 
— the  projci't,  nauK'ly,  for  discovering  a  passage  to 
the  kingdom  of  Cathay  and  the  coasts  of  India,  by 
the  north-west.     In   the  discussion  of  this  point, 
Ramusio  minutelv  describes  a  conversation,  which 
took  place  at  the  villa  of  the  celebrated  Italian  physi- 
cian and  poet  Fracastoro,  between  Kamusio  himself, 
Fracostoro,  an  architect  named  St  INIichael,  and  a  cer- 
tain philosopher  and  mathematician,  who  gave  them 
an  account  of  an  interview  w  hich  he  once  had  with 
Sebastian  Cabot  in  the  city  of  Seville.     The  whole 
passage  is  interesting,  whether  we  look  to  the  in- 
formation regarding  Cabot,  or  to  the  pleasing  picture 
it  brings  before  us  of  the  great  P>acastoro  in  his 
philosophic  and  classical  retreat  at  Caphi.     No  apo- 
logy, therefore,  need  be  mad(?  for  presenting  it  to  the 
reader.   "  Having  thus  given  you,"  says  the  Italian 
writer,  "  all  that  I  could  extract  from  ancient  and 
modern  authors  upon  this  subject,  it  would  be  in- 
excusable in  me  if  I  did  not  relate  a  high  and  ad- 
mirable discourse,  which  some  few  months  ago  it 
was  my  good  fortune  to  hear,  ir  company  with  the 
excellent  architect  IMichael  de  St  JMichael,  in  the 
sweet   and   romantic   country-seat   of   Hieronyrao 
Fracastoro,   named  Caphi,    situated  near  Verona, 
whilst  we  sat  on  the  top  of  a  hill  commanding  a 
view  of  the  whole  of  the  Lago  di  Garda.  "  *  *  Being 
then,  as  I  said,  at  Caphi,  where  we  had  gone  to 
visit  our  excellent  friend  Ilieronymo,  we  found  him 
on  our  arrival  sitting  in  company  with  a  certain 
gentleman^  whose  name^  from  motives  of  delicacy 

5 


tmttmmmttifp^ 


no 


HAMIJSIO 


and  respect,  I  conceal.  He  ^va>■,  however,  a  pro- 
found philosoplier  and  niiitiieniati<*ian,  and  at  that 
moment  enijaijed  in  exliihitin^j  to  Fracasloro  an  in- 
strument lately  constructed  to  show  a  n<'W  motion 
of  the  heavens.  Ilaviiit;-  reasoned  upon  this  point 
for  a  lon;j  time,  they  hy  way  of  recreation  caused  a 
larjjfe  ^dohe,  upon  which  the  world  was  minutely 
laid  down,  to  he  brought ;  and,  having'  this  before 
him,  the  gentleman  I  have  mentiiMied  l)en;an  to 
speak  to  the  followin<f  purpose."  Jiamusio,  after 
this  introduction,  gives  us,  as  [)roceeding  from  tlw 
stranger,  a  great  mass  of  geograj)hical  information, 
after  which  he  introduces  him  discussing  with  Fra- 
castoro  the  prohahility  of  a  north-west  passage  to 
India.  "  At  this  point  of  his  conversation,"  says  he, 
"  after  the  stranger  liad  made  a  pause  for  a  few  mo- 
ments, lie  turned  to  us  and  said, — '  Do  you  not 
know,  regarding  this  pnject  of  going  to  India  by  the 
north-west,  what  was  formerly  achieved  by  your 
fellow-citizen  the  Venetian,  a  most  extraordinary 
man,  and  so  deeply  conversant  in  every  thing  con- 
nected with  navigation  and  the  science  of  cosmogra- 
[)hy,  that  in  these  days  he  hath  not  his  equal  in 
Spain,  insoin',,cli  that  for  his  ability  he  is  preferred 
aimve  all  other  pilots  that  sail  to  the  West  Indies, 
who  may  not  pass  thither  without  his  licerse,  on 
which  account  he  is  denominated  Piloto  i\Iayor,  or 
Grand  Pilot  .'*'  When  to  this  question  wo  replied 
that  we  knew  liim  not,  the  stranger  proceeded  to 
tell  us,  that  being  some  years  ago  in  the  city  of 
Seville  he  w^as  desirous  to  gain  an  acquaintance 
with  the  navigations  of  the  Spaniards,  Vvhen  he 
learnt  that  there  was  in  tlie  city  a  valiant  man,  a 
Venetian  born,  named  Sebastian  Cabot,  who  had 


tl 
tl 
c 
re 

<1' 
nl 


HIS  AcrouNT  or  si:n.\sTiAN  cAnor. 


ni 


<'!',  a  pro- 
ud at  tluif 
(oro  an  in- 
'\v  motion 
this  point 
II  caused  a 
minutely 
liis  hcforc 
lK'<i:an  to 
usio,  after 
i'  from  the 
Ibrmation. 
with  Fra- 
|)assag(3  to 
"  says  lie, 
I  few  mo- 
»  you  not 
diahy  the 
i  hy  your 
aordinarv 
ling  con- 
.'osnioflfra- 
<"qual  in 
preferred 
t  Indies, 
-erse,  on 
favor,  or 
i  replied 
•eeded  to 
('  city  of 
laintanee 
rvlien  he 
t  man,  a 
vlio  had 


the  ehar^c.  of  tlu-se  thiiii's,  beintf  an  e\j)i'rt  man  in 
the  science  of  naviuation,  and  one  who  <'ouhl  inak«! 
charts  for  the  sea  witii  his  own  hand.  '  Upon  this 
report  of  him,'  continued  he,  *  I  souijht  his  ae- 
(luaintance,  an<l  found  iiim  a  pieasiuit  and  courteous 
person,  who  loaded  me  with  kindness,  and  showed 
me  many  tiiinus  ;  amoiii:  tiie  rest  a  lar^e  map  of 
the  world,  w  itii  the  naviiiations  of  the  Portu^'uese 
and  the  Sj)anij\rds  minutely  laid  down  upon  it ;  and 
in  exhihilini;'  this  to  me,  he  informed  me  that  his 
fiither,  many  years  aj^o,  havinij  left  Venice  and  gone 
to  settle  as  a  merchant  in  iMi<,daii(l,  had  taken  him 
to  London  w  hen  he  was  still  a  youth,  yt't  not  so  hack- 
ward  but  he  had  then  ac([uire(l  the  knowledge  of 
the  Latin  tongue,  and  some  acquaintance  with  the 
sj)liere.  It  so  happened,  he  said,  that  his  father 
died  at  that  time  when  the  news  arrived  that  IJon 
Christopher  Columbus  had  tliscov(M'ed  the  coast  of 
l!)e  Indies,  of  which  there  was  much  talk  at  the 
court  of  Henry  VIL,  who  then  reigned  in  P^ng- 
laiul.'  "  The  elfect  of  this  discovery  U|)on  Cabot's 
youthful  ambiiion,  which  we  have  already  alluded 
to,  is  next  described  by  Ramusio  from  the  report 
of  the  stranger,  and  he  then  proceeds  in  these  re- 
markable words: — ''  '  Being  aware,'  said  Cabot  to 
me,  '  that  if  1  sailed  with  the  wind  bearing  me  in 
a  north-westerly  course,  I  should  come  to  India  by 
a  sliorter  route,  I  suddenly  imparted  my  ideas  to  the 
king,  who  was  much  pleased  with  them,  and  fitted 
out  for  me  three  caravels  with  all  necessary  stores 
and  equi[)ments.  This,'  he  added,  '  was  in  the  be- 
ginning of  the  summer  of  the  year  149(3,  and  1 
l)egan  to  sail  towards  the  north-west  with  the  idea 
that  the  first  land  I  should  make  would  be  Cathay, 
from   which   I    intended   afterwards  to  direct   my 


32 


RA3IUSI0  S  ACCOUNT  OF  CABOT. 


course  to  the  Indies ;  but  after  tlie  lapse  of  several 
days,  having  discovered  it,  I  found  that  the  coast 
ran  towards  the  nortli  to  my  great  disappointment. 
From  thv^nce  sailing  along  it,  to  ascertain  if  I  could 
find  any  gulf  to  run  into,  I  could  discover  none, 
and  thus  having  proceeded  as  far  as  5()°  under  the 
Pole,  and  seeing  that  here  tlie  coast  trended  to- 
wards the  east,  I  despaired  of  discovering  any 
passage,  and  after  this  turned  ])ack  to  examine  the 
same  coast  in  its  direction  towards  the  equinoctial, 
—always  with  the  same  object  of  finding  a  pass- 
age to  the  Indies,  and  thus  at  last  I  reached  the 
country  at  present  named  Florida,  where,  since  my 
provisions  began  to  fail  me,  I  took  tlie  resolution  of 
returning  to  England.  On  arriving  in  that  coun- 
try I  found  great  tumults,  occasioned  l)y  the  rising 
of  the  common  people  and  the  war  in  Sjotland; 
nor  was  there  any  more  talk  of  a  voyage  to  these 
parts.  For  this  reason  I  departed  into  Spain  to 
their  most  Catholic  Majesties,  Ferdinand  and  Isa- 
bella, who,  having  learnt  what  I  had  accomplished, 
rec»  'ved  me  into  their  service,  provided  for  me  hand- 
somely, and  despatched  me  on  a  voyage  of  discovery 
to  the  coast  of  Brazil,  where  I  found  an  exceeding 
deep  and  mighty  river,  called  at  pr<^sent  La  Plata, 
into  which  I  sailed  and  explored  its  course  into  the 
continent  more  than  six  score  leaf^ues.  *  *  "'  This,' 
continued  the  stranger  gentleman,  addressing  him- 
self to  us,  '  is  the  substance  of  all  that  I  learnt  from 
the  Signor  Sebastian  Cabot.'  "* 

Such  is  the  passage  from  Ramusio ;  and  from  it 
we  have  another  proof,  that  of  this  second  voyage, 
which  probably  took  place  after  the  death  of  the 


or 

coi 

pal 

wll 

of 

thi 

St 

pa 

ti( 


V^iug'j,^!  del  Ramusio,  torn.  i.  pp.  413,  414. 


SEBASTIAN  CABOT. 


33 


of  several 
t  tlie  coast 
^ointment, 
if  I  could 
)ver  none^ 
under  tlie 
•ended  to- 
uring any 
amine  the 
]uinoctial, 
iig  a  pass- 
'aclied  the 
,  since  my 
solution  of 
that  coun- 
the  rising 
Scotland; 
[e  to  these 
Spain  to 
and  Isa- 
mplished, 
me  hand- 
discovery 
exceeding 
a  Plata^ 
into  the 
"•  This; 
ing  him- 
irnt  from 

i  from  it 
voyage, 
h  of  the 


original  discoverer,  Sebastian  Cabot  had   the   sole 
command ;  that  its  object  was  to  find  a  north-west 
passage   to   India,  and   that   the   highest  latitude 
which  he  reached  was  56^.     I  am  quite  aware  some 
of  the  statements  in  this  extract  are  erroneous,  and 
that  Gomara,  an  author  of  good  authority,  carries 
Sebastian  as  far  as  58°  north  ;*  but,  considering  the 
particular  circumstances  under  which  the  informa- 
tion is  conveyed,  there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that 
the  general  sketch  of  the  voyage  is  correct ;  and  it 
establishes  the  important  fact,  that  as  early  as  1498, 
the  coast  of  North  America,  from  the  latitude  of  56° 
or  58°  north  to  the  coast  of  Florida,  had  been  dis- 
covered by  the  English.     The  domestic  affairs  of 
Henry,  however,  and  the  involved  political  nego- 
tiations with  France  and  the  continent,  undoubted- 
ly prevented  the  king  from  holding  out  to  Sebastian 
that  encouragement  with  which  so  great  a  discovery 
ought  to  have  been  rewarded ;  and  after  an  interval 
of  fourteen  years,  of  which  we  have  no  certain  ac- 
couj:t,  this  great  navigator   left  England  and  en- 
tered into  the  service  of  Spain. 

The  Portuguese,  a  nation  to  whose  genius  and  per- 
severance the  sister  sciences  of  geography  and  navi- 
gation owe  some  of  their  highest  triumphs,  were  at 
this  period  in  the  zenith  of  their  fame,  animated  with 
an  enthusiastic  spirit  of  enterprise,  and  ready  to 
consider  every  discovery  not  conducted  by  them- 
selves as  an  encroachment  upon  their  monopoly  of 
maritime  glory.  Inspired  with  this  jealousy.  Gas- 
par  de  Cortereal,  of  whose  expedition  notice  has 
already  been  taken  in  this  Lil)rary,t  determined 

*  Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  87. 

f  DLscovery  and  Adventure  in  the  Polar  Seas,  3d  edition,  \u  184, 
and  Lives  and  Voyages  of  Drake,  Cavendish,  aud  Dampier,  p.  24. 


•-"^isHk- 


nPMPMn 


34 


CORTEREAL. 


t . 


to  pursue-  tho  track  of  diswvcry  opened  by  Cabot  in 
the  nortli-west^  and  in  ir)00  sailed  with  two  sliips 
from  Lisbon,  animated  l)y  tlie  desire  of  exploring 
this  supposed  new  route  to  India.*  Cortereal  touch- 
ed at  the  Azores,  wliere  lie  completed  his  crews,  and 
took  in  provisions.  He  then  steered  a  course  never, 
as  far  as  he  knew,  traced  by  any  former  navigator, 
and  came  upon  a  country  to  which  he  gave  the  name 
of  Terra  Verde,  but  which  is  carefully  to  be  distin- 
guished from  that  called  Greenland.  This  was  in 
truth  the  coast  of  Labrador,  denominated  in  an  old 
map  published  at  Rome  in  L">08,  Terra  Corterealis. 
It  lay  between  the  west  and  north- west ;  an.f.  after 
having  explored  it  for  upwards  of  ()00  miles  with- 
out reaching  any  termination,  Cortereal  concluded 
that  it  must  form  part  of  the  mainland,  which  was 
connected  with  another  region  discovered  in  the 
preceding  year  in  the  north, — evidently  alluding 
to  the  voyage  of  Sebastian  Cabot  in  1498.t  The 
most  curious  and  authentic  account  of  this  remark^ 
able  expedition  of  the  Portuguese  navigator  is  to 
be  found  in  a  letter,  written  by  Pietro  Pasquiligi, 
the  Venetian  ambassador  at  the  court  of  Portugal 
to  his  brothers  in  Italy,  only  eleven  days  after  th( 
return  of  Cortereal  from  iiis  first  voyage.  "  On  the 
\M\\  of  October,"   says  he,  ''  there  arrived  in  this 

*  Cortereal  had  been  educated  in  the  household  of  the  King-  o^ 
Portugal  before  Ik;  came  to  the  throne,  and  when  he  still  bore  the 
title  t»f  Duke  de  Beja — Daniiano  (ioes,  Chronica  del  Key  Doni. 
Manuel,  c.  <>♦»,  cap.  •!(»,  p.  1!57>  His  cliaracter,  as  given  by  this 
ancient  and  contemporary  chronicler,  is  brief  and  forcible.  "  Gaspar 
de  Cortereal,  son  ot  John  \'az  Cortereal,  was  a  man  of  an  enter- 
prisin<i^  and  determined  character,  ardently  tlursting  after  glory; 
for  which  reason  he  proposed  to  set  out  on  a  voyage  of  discovery, 
seeking  countries  in  northarn  latitudes,  we  (tiie  l*ortuguese)  having- 
at  this  time  discovered  many  in  soulli(>rn  parts." 

•f-  Memoir  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  p.  241. 


CORTEREAL. 


3;5 


V  Cabot  ill 
two  sliips 
expiorijift 
cal  toiicli- 
revvs,  and 
rse  never, 
navigator, 
the  name 
be  distin- 
liis  was  in 
in  an  old 
!ort<>realis. 
unA,  after 
iles  with- 
conciuded 
vhich  was 
d   in   the 
'  alluding 
8.t     The 
s  remarks 
ator  is  to 
*asquiligi, 
Portugal, 
after  th( 
''  On  the 
d  in  this 

the  King-  o^ 
itill  bore  the 
Itev  Doni. 
iven  by  this 
p-  "  Ciaspar 
)f'  an  enter- 
xi'h'V  g-lury; 
f"  discovery, 
iese)  having- 


port  one  of  the  two  caravels,  which  were  last  year 
despatched  by  the  Kincf  of  Portugal  for  the  discovery 
of  lands  lying  in  the  nortli,   under   the  command 
of  Gaspar  Cortereal.     He  relates  that  he  has  dis- 
covered a  country  situated  between  tlie  west  and 
north-west,  distant  from  this  about  2000  miles,  and 
which  before  the  present  time  was  utterly  unknown. 
They  ran  along  the  coast  between  000  and  700  miles 
without  arriving  at  its  termination,  on  which  ac- 
count the}^  concluded  it  to  be  the  same  continent  that 
is  connected  with  another  land  discovered  last  year 
in  the  north,  which,  however,  the  caravels  could  not 
reach,  the  sea  being  frozen,  and  a  vast  quantity  of 
snow  having  fallen.     They  were  confirmed  in  the 
same  opinion  by  finding  so  many  niiijlity  rivers, 
which  certainly  were  too  numerous  and  too  large  to 
have  proceeded  from  an  island.     They  report  that 
this  land  is  thickly  peopled,  and  that  the  houses  are 
built  of  very  long  beams  of  timber,  and  covered  with 
the  furs  of  the  skins  of  fishes.     They  liave  brought 
hither  along  with  them  seven  of  the  inliabitants,  in- 
cluding men,  women,  and  children ;  and  in  the  other 
caravel,  which  is  looked  for  every  hour,  they  are 
bringing  fifty  more.    These  people,  in  colour,  figure, 
stature,   and  expression,  greatly  resemble  gipsies  : 
they  are  clothed  with  the  skins  of  different  beasts, 
but  chiefly  of  the  otter,  wearing  the  hair  outside  in 
summer,  and  next  to  the  skin  in  winter.     These 
skins,  too,  are  not  sewed  together,  nor  shaped  to  the 
body  in  any  fashion,  but  wrapt  around  their  arms 
and  sliculders  exactly  as  taken  from  the  animals ; 
whilst  they  conceal  the  parts  which  nature  forbids 
us  to  expose  with  strong  cords  made  of  the  sinews 
or  entrails  of  fishes.     On  this  account  their  appear- 


36 


CORTEREAL. 


ance  is  completely  savage ;  yet  they  are  very  sen- 
sible to  shame,  gentle  in  their  manners,  and  better 
made  in  their  arms,  legs,  and  shoulders,  than  can  be 
expressed.  Their  faces  are  punctured  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  Indians; — some  liave  six  marks, 
some  eight,  some  fewer ;  they  use  a  language  of  their 
own,  but  it  is  understood  by  no  one.  IMoreover,  I 
believe  that  every  possible  language  has  been  ad- 
dressed to  them.  They  have  no  iron  in  their  coun- 
try, but  manufacture  knives  out  of  certain  kinds  of 
stones,  with  which  they  point  their  arrows.  They 
have  also  brought  from  this  island  a  piece  of  a  broken 
sword  inlaid  with  gold,  which  we  can  pronounce 
undoubtedly  to  have  been  made  in  Itah^ ;  and  one 
of  the  children  had  in  his  ears  two  pieces  {todini) 
of  silver,  which  as  certainly  appear  to  have  been 
made  in  Venice, — a  circumstance  inducing  me  to 
believe  that  their  country  belongs  to  the  continent, 
since  it  is  evident  Ihat,  if  it  had  been  an  island 
where  any  vessel  had  touched  before  this  time,  we 
sliould  have  heard  of  it.  They  have  great  plent}^ 
of  salmon,  herring,  stockfish,  and  similar  kinds  of 
fish.  They  have  also  abundance  of  timber,  and 
principally  of  the  pine,  fitted  for  the  masts  and 
yards  of  ships ;  on  which  account  his  Serene  Ma- 
jesty anticipates  the  greatest  advantage  from  this 
country,  both  in  furnishing  timber  for  his  shipping, 
of  which  he  at  presenl  stands  in  great  need,  and 
also  from  the  men  who  inhabit  it,  who  appear  ad- 
mirably fitted  to  endure  labour,  and  will  probably 
turn  out  the  best  slaves  which  have  been  discovered 
up  to  this  time.  This  arrival  appeared  to  me  an 
event  of  which  it  was  right  to  inform  you ;  and  if 
on  the  arrival  of  the  other  caravel  I  receive  any 


a 
v 


CJ 

c 


CORTEREAL. 


37 


e  very  sen- 
,  and  better 
than  can  be 
in  the  same 
six  marks, 
lage  of  their 
Moreover,  I 
IS  been  ad- 
their  coun- 
lin  kinds  of 
)ws.  They 
of  a  broken 

pronounce 
v;  and  one 
?es  {todini) 

have  been 
cing  me  to 

continent, 


an  island 
s  time,  we 
eat  plenty 
ir  kinds  of 
mber,  and 
masts  and 
lerene  Ma- 

from  this 
s  shipping, 

need,  and 
appear  ad- 

probably 
discovered 

to  me  an 
u ;  and  if 

eive  any 


additional  information,  it  shall  be  transmitted  to 
you  in  like  manner."* 

Nothing  could  be  more  cnicl  and  impolitic  than 
the  conduct  of  Cortereal  in  seizing  and  carrying  into 
captivity  these  unfortunate  natives;  and  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  repress  our  indignation  at  the  heartless  and 
calculating  spirit  with  which  the  Portuguese  monarch 
entered  into  the  adventure,  contemplating  the  rich 
supplies  of  slaves  that  were  to  be  imported  from  this 
new  country. t  It  is  an  ingenious  conjecture  of 
the  biographer  of  Cabot,  to  whose  research  we  owe 
our  acquaintance  with  this  letter,  that  the  name 
Terra  de  Laborador  was  given  to  the  coast  by  the 
Portuguese  slave-merchants  in  consequence  of  tlie 
admirable  qualities  of  the  natives  as  labourers,  and 
in  anticipation  of  the  profits  to  be  derived  from  a 
monopoly  of  this  unchristian  traffic. 

But  distress  and  disaster  pursued  the  specula- 
tion:  On  the  loth  jNIay  1501,  Cortereal  departed 
on  a  second  voyage  with  a  determination  to  pursue 
his  discovery,  and,  as  we  may  plausibly  conjec- 
ture, to  return  with  a  new  cargo  of  slaves  and  tim- 
ber ;  but  he  was  never  again  heard  of.  A  similar 
dark  and  unhappy  fate  befell  his  brother,  Michael 
de  Cortereal,  who  sailed  with  two  ships  in  search 
of  his  lost  relative,  but  of  whom  no  accounts  ever 
again  reached  Portugal.  The  most  probable  con- 
jecture seems  to  be,  that  they  both  fell  victims  to 
the  just  indignation  of  the  natives,  whose  wives, 

*  Memoir  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  pp.  2;il»,  240. 

•\  I  observe  tbat  in  the  History  of  Discovery  and  Adventure 
in  tlie  Polar  Seas,  3d  editicMi,  pp.  187,  188,  Mr  Murray  has  ques- 
tioned tlie  accuracy  of  the  o|)inion  stated  by  the  biographer  m  Ca- 
bot, "  that  the  objects  of  Cortereal's  second  voyage  were  timber 
and  slaves."  The  letter,  however,  of  Ptuifjuiligi  seems  to  me  deci- 
sive that,  if  not  the  sole,  they  were  at  least  very  principal  objects 
in  the  second  voyage. 


38 


CORTEREAL. 


children,  and  fatliers,  liad  been  stolen  away  during 
their  first  visit  to  the  eoast.  "  Tlie  king,"  says  Goes, 
''  felt  deeply  the  loss  of  these  two  brothers,  so  mueh 
the  more  as  they  had  been  educated  by  him ;  and 
on  this  account,  moved  by  royal  and  gracious  ten- 
derness, in  the  following  year,  1503,  he  sent  at  his 
own  expense  two  armed  ships  in  search  of  them ; 
but  it  could  never  be  discovered  where  or  in  what 
manner  either  th(3  one  or  the  other  was  lost,  on 
which  account  this  province  of  Terra  Verde,  where 
it  was  supposed  the  two  brothers  perished,  was  call- 
ed the  Land  of  the  Cortereals."*  The  description 
of  the  inhabitants,  as  given  by  this  contemporary 
chronicler,  contains  a  few  additional  particulars  to 
those  mentioned  by  Pasquiligi.  "  The  people  of 
the  country,"  says  he,  "  are  very  barbarous  and 
uncivilized,  almost  equally  so  with  the  natives  of 
Santa  Cruz,  except  that  they  are  white,  and  so 
tanned  by  the  cold  that  tlie  wiiite  colour  is  lost  as 
they  grow  older,  and  they  become  blackish.  They 
are  of  the  middle  size,  very  lightly  made,  and  great 
archers.  Instead  of  javelins,  they  employ  sticks 
burnt  in  the  end,  which  they  use  as  missiles  to  as 
good  purpose  as  if  they  were  pointed  with  fine  steel. 
They  clothe  themselves  in  the  skins  of  beasts,  of 
which  there  are  great  plenty  in  the  country.  They 
live  in  caverns  of  rocks,  and  in  houses  shaped  like 
nests  {choupanas).  They  have  no  laws,  believe 
much  in  auguries,  live  in  matrimony,  and  are  very 
jealous  of  their  wives, — in  which  things  they  much 
resemble  the  Laplanders,  who  also  inhabit  a  north- 
ern latitude  under  70°  to  85°,  subject  to  the  kings 
of  Norway  and  Swedeu."t 

*  Daiuiano  Goes,  Chronica  del  Key  Doiii.  Manuel,  part  i.  c.  CO. 
t  Ibid.  c.  06.  p.  87. 


UNFOUNDKD  CLAIM  OF  THE  rOHTUGUJ:SK.      ,'^i) 


vay  during 
says  Goes^ 
s,  so  much 
him;  and 
it'ious  ten- 
sent  at  his 
of  them ; 
)r  in  what 
s  lost,   on 
*de,  where 
,  was  call- 
leseription 
temporary 
ticuJars  to 
people  of 
irous  and 
natives  of 
e,  and  so 
is  lost  as 
h.     They 
and  great 
loy  sticks 
siles  to  as 
fine  steel, 
leasts,  of 
y.    They 
iped  like 
,  believe 
are  very 
ey  much 
a  north- 
he  kings 

.rt  i.  c.  UC>. 


Upon  tliese  voyages  of  the  Cortereals  the  Portu- 
guese attempted  to  estahlisli  a  claim  to  the  discovery 
of  Newlbundhuid  and  the  adjacent  coasts  of  North 
America,  though  there  is  ample  historical  evidence 
that  both  had  been  visited  bv  the  two  Cabots  three 
years  prior  to  the  departure  of  Cortereal  from  Lisbon. 
Maps  appear  to  have  bi'en  forged  to  support  tiiis 
unfair  assumption  ;  and  in  a  volume'  j)ublished  by 
iMadrignanon  at  i\Iilai?  in  li)()H,  which  represents 
itself  to  be  a  translation  of  the  Italian  work  entitled 
"  Paesi  Nuovamente  Kitiovati,"  the  original  letter 
of  Pasquiligi,  describing  the  arrival  of  Gaspar  Cor- 
tereal, is  disgracefully  garbled  and  corrupted, — for 
the  purpose,  as  it  would  seem,  of  keeping  the  prior 
discoveries  of  the  Cabots  in  the  background,  and  ad- 
vancing a  fabricated  claim  for  the  Portuguese."'  It 
is  unfortunate  that  this  disingenuous  process  of  poi- 
soning the  sources  of  historic  truth  has  succeeded, 
and  that  many  authors  not  aware  of  its  apocryphal 
character,  which  nas  been  acutely  exposed  by  the 
biographer  of  Cabot,  have  given  a  pernicious  cur- 
rency to  the  fable  of  iMadrignanon. 

About  fourteen  years  after  his  return  from  the  voy- 
age of  1498,  we  have  seen  that  Sebastian  Cabot  was 
induced  to  enter  the  se;rvice  of  Spain;  but,  though 
highly  esteemed  for  his  eminent  abilities,  appointed 
one  of  the  Council  of  the  Indies  by  Ferdinand,  and 
nominated  to  the  command  of  an  expedition  to  the 
north  in  search  of  a  north-west  passage,  he  appears 
to  have  been  baffled  and  thwarted  in  his  plans  by 
the  jealousy  of  the  Spaniards,  and  was  at  last  com- 
pelled to  abandon  them  on  the  death  of  Ferdinand. 

*  Memoir  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  pp.  251,  252. 


40     SEBASTIAN  CABOT's  RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 

He  then  returned  to  England;  and,  indefatigable  in 
the  prosecution  of  that  great  object  which  formed 
tlie  prominent  pursuit  of  his  life,  induced  Henry 
Vlll.  to  fit  out  a  small  squadron  for  the  discovery 
of  the  north-west  passage  to  India.  Unfortunately, 
however,  for  the  success  of  the  voyage.  Sir  Thomas 
Pert,  at  this  time  vice-admiral  of  England,  was 
intrusted  with  the  supreme  command,  whose  wanr 
of  courage  and  resolution  was  the  cause  of  its  ulti- 
mate failure.  The  object  of  Cabot  was  to  proceed 
by  Iceland  towards  the  American  coast,  which  he 
had  already  explored  as  far  as  56°,  according  to  Ra- 
musio,  or,  if  we  follow  Gomara,  58°  north.  This 
would  lead  him,  to  use  the  expression  of  Thorne,*  by 
the  back  of  Newfoundland,  and  from  this  point, 
pursuing  his  voyage  farther  to  the  northward,  he  ex- 
pected to  find  a  passage  to  the  kingdom  of  Cathay. 
The  ships  accordingly  set  sail,  and  on  the  11th  of 
June  they  had  reached  the  67^°  of  nortnern  lati- 
tude. They  here  found  the  sea  open,  and  Cabot  en- 
tertained a  confident  hope  of  sailing  through  a  bay  or 
"  fret,"  which  they  had  then  entered,  to  the  shores 


•  Letter  of  Robert  Thorne Hukluyt,  edition  of  1589,  p.  250. 

— "  And  if  they  will  take  their  course,  after  they  he  past  the  Pole, 
towards  the  Occident,  they  shall  ^oe  in  the  back  side  of  the  New- 
foundland, which  of  late  was  discovered  by  your  Grace's  subjects, 
until  they  come  to  the  back  side  and  south  seas  of  the  Indies  Occi- 
dental :  And  so,  continuing  their  voyage,  they  may  return  thorow 
the  Straight  of  Magellan  to  this  country,  and  so  they  compass  also 
tlie  world  by  that  way ;  and  if  they  goe  this  third  way,  and  after 
they  be  past  the  Pole,  goe  right  toward  the  Pole  Antarticke,  and 
tlien  decline  towards  the  lancis  and  islands  situated  between  the 
tropicks  and  under  the  eciuinoctial,  without  doubt  thev  shall  find 
there  the  richest  lands  and  islands  of  the  world,  of  gold,  precious 
stones,  balniis,  spices,  and  other  thinges  that  we  here  esteem  most, 
which  come  out  of  strange  countries,  and  may  return  the  same  way." 
See  also  Gomara,  as  quoted  in  the  Memoir  of  Sebastian  Cabot, 
p.  21. 


LAND. 


SEBASTIAN  CABOT  ENTERS  HUDSON'S  BAY.      41 


atigable  in 
cli  formed 
ed  Henry 
discovery 
rtunately, 
ir  Tlioraas 
land,  was 
hose  wanf, 
f  its  ulti- 
to  proceed 
wliich  he 
ng  to  Ra- 
th.    This 
lorne,*  by 
lis  point, 
rd,  lie  ex- 
1  Cathay, 
le  11th  of 
Hern  lati- 
Cabot  en- 
!i  a  bay  or 
lie  shores 


589,  p.  250. 
ust  the  Pole, 
)f  the  New- 
e's  subjects, 
Indies  Occi- 
turn  thorow 
ompass  also 
y,  and  after 
articke,  and 
etween  the 
V  shall  find 
fd,  precious 
iteem  most, 
same  way." 
:ian  Cabot, 


of  the  Eastern  Cathay,  when  a  mutiny  of  the  mari- 
ners, and  the  faintheartedness  of  Sir  Thomas  Pert, 
coinpelK'd  him,  much  against  his  inclination  to  desist 
from  the  farther  prosecution  of  the  voyage,  and  return 
home.  •  From  the  high  latitude  reached  by  this 
enterprising  seaman,  as  well  as  from  the  expressions 
employed  by  Sir  Humphrey  Gilbert  in  speaking  of 
the  voyage,  it  appears  certain  that  Cabot  had  entered 
the  great  bay  afterwards  explored  by  Hudson,  and 
since  known  by  his  naine.t     It  is  an  extraordinary 

*  It  is  evidently  to  tliis  third  voyaj^e  that  the  passage  in  lla- 
musio,  vol.  iii.  p.  4,  ul'the  "  Discorso  soprail  terzo  voliMne,"ap[)lies. 
Memoir  ot  ('al)ot,  p.  11/.  It  is  valuable,  as  this  author,  thoui^h  he 
appears  by  uiistake  to  have  put  tlu;  name  of  Henry  VII.  for  that  of 
Henry  VIII.  (piotes  iu  it  a  letter  which  many  years  before  he  had 
received  from  Sebastian  Cabot  hiniselC.  He  (Rannisio)  in  speakini^ 
of  the  discoveries  siibsecpiently  made  by  V Crazzano,  anrl  of  the 
cxnmtry  of  New  France,  remarks,  that  of  this  land  it  is  not  certain 
as  yet  whether  it  is  joined  to  the  continent  of  Florida  and  New  Spain, 
or  whether  it  is  separated  into  islands,  and  may  thus  admit  of  a 
passag'e  to  the  kitij^dom  of  Cathay.  "  Come,"  he  proceeds,  "  come 
mi  fu  scrittogia  molti  anni  sctno,  dal  Sijj^nor  Sebastian  Gabotto  nostro 
Vinitianohuomodij^rande  esperienza  et  raro  nelT  arte  del  navi^are, 
e  nella  scienza  di  cosmo^raria:  il  (piale  avea  navicato  disopra  di 
questa  terra  della  Nuova  Francia  a  spese  del  Re  Henrico  VII. 
d'lni^hilterra  e  me  diciva,  come  essendo  Cjj^li  andatolimj^amentealla 
volta  de  ponentee  (juarta  di  Maestro  dietro(pu'ste  Isoleposte  lunj^o 
la  delta  terra  fini  aj^radi  sessanta  sette  e  mezzo  sotto  il  nostro  {K)Io 
a  xi.  di  Gui^no  e  trovandosi  il  mare  aperto  e  senza  impedimento 
alcuno,  pensava  fermamente  per  ([uella  via  di  poter  passare  alia 
volta  del  Catuio  Orientale,  e  I'avrebbe  fatto,  se  la  mali^^nita  del 
piidrone  e  de  marineri  sollevati  non  fhavesseio  fatto  tornare  a  die- 
tro."     This  discourse  is  dated  20th  June  1553. 

•j-  Hakhiyt,  vol.  iii.  {).  1<>.  It  must  be  recollected  that  Sir  Iliim- 
pbrey  Gilbert  had  the  advantag'e  of  having  examined  the  charts  of 
Sebastian  Cabot,  which,  he  tells  us,  were  then  to  be  seen  in  tlio 
Queen's  privy  {gallery  at  Whitehall.  It  has  also  been  acutely  re- 
marked by  a  late  writer  (Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  2!)),  that  Ortelius, 
who  died  nine  years  before  Hudson  undertook  his  first  vov'ai^e,  in 
the  map  of  America,  [)id)lished  in  his  threat  geographical  work,  the 
"Theatrum  Orbis  Terrarum,"  has  laid  down  the  form  of  Hudson's 
Bay  with  singular  precision.  Now  we  know  by  the  list  of  authori- 
ties cited  by  Ortelius,  that  he  was  in  [jossession  of  a  map  of  the 
world  by  Sebastian  Cabot.  The  source,  therefore,  from  which  ho 
derived  his  information  is  evident. 


.i;ta-;^_' 


■\'2 


VKRAZZANO  S  VOYAOi:. 


fact,  llicroforc,  l)ut  it  rests  u|)()n  ex  iddico  wliicli  it 
would  ])('  dillic'iilt  to  controvert,  tliat  ninety  years 
iM'fore  t\w  first  vovaije  of  Hudson  lie  liad  been  anti- 
eipated  in  liis  j)rineii)al  discovery  l)y  an  early  navi- 
<j;at()r,  to  whose  merits  the  world  have  done  little 
justice. 

^V'llilst  the  Portuiiuese,  the  vSpaniards^  and  the 
Enoii.sh,  had  early  entered  upon  the  career  of  dis- 
covery, tlie  French,  a  people  undoubtedly  of  the 
hiiihest  <:enius  and  enterprise,  evinced  an  unaccount- 
al)le  inaciivity  upon  this  great  subjec  t,  and  appeared 
to  view  witli  indifl'erejic(!  the  brilliant  successes  of 
other  nations.  At  lenuth  Francis  I.,  a  monarch 
who  was  deeply  smit  with  the  love  of  glory,  caught 
the  enthusiasm  for  maritime  discovery,  and  eager 
to  cope  upon  equal  terms  with  his  great  rival 
Charles  V.,  fitted  out  a  squadron  of  four  shijis,  the 
command  of  which  he  intrusted  to  Giovanni  Veraz- 
zano,  a  Florentine  navigator  of  great  skill  and  cele- 
brity. The  destinatioii  of  the  armament,  however, 
appears  to  have  embraced  the  purposes  of  plunder 
as  well  as  of  discovery  ;  and  in  a  cruise  three  of  his 
vessels  were  so  much  (Uimaged  in  a  storm,  that  they 
were  compelled,  for  the  pur])ose  of  refitting,  to  run 
into  a  port  in  Brittany,  from  which,  impatient  of 
the  delay,  the  admiral,  in  a  single  vessel  named 
the  Dauphin,  set  sail  with  a  determination  to  pro- 
secute discoveries.  lie  iirst  steered  Iiis  course  for 
Madeira,  and  thence  sailed  in  a  westerly  direction 
for  twenty-five  days,  making  in  that  time  50() 
leagues.  A  storm  now  attacked  him,  in  which 
his  little  vessel  had  nearly  perished,  but  he  at  last 
weathered  the  gale,  and  proceeding  onwards  for  400 
leagues,  arrived  upon  a  coast  that,  according  to  his 


VKKAZZANO. 


4:j 


wliic'li  it 
H'tv  years 
»('<'ii  anti- 
irlv  iiavi- 
one  Jittlc 

uiid  the 
T  of  dis- 
Iv  of  the 
laccouiit- 
aj)i)eared 
c'cesscs  of 
monarch 
V,  caught 
lid  eatjcr 
'at   rival 
ihips,  tlie 
li  Vcraz- 
11  id  cele- 
lowever, 
plunder 
ee  of  Iiis 
hat  they 
;,  to  run 
itient  of 
I  named 
1  to  pro- 
)urse  for 
lirection 
[ue   50O 
whicli 
at  last 
)  for  400 
T  to  his 


own  account,  liad  n<'V(T  before  been  visited**  It  is 
probal>ie  that  this  sliore  l>eh)iiired  either  to  North 
or  South  Carolina  ;t  and  the  appearance  of  many 
larm'  fires  on  tlie  beach  convinced  him  that  the  coun- 
try was  inhabited.  Verazzaiio,  however,  in  vain 
souirht  for  a  port;  and  after  ('xplorin^r  th<'  coast  both 
to  the  south  and  north  without  success,  he  was  com- 
peHed  to  anchor  in  the  open  sea,  after  which  he  sent 
fiis  boat  on  shore  to  open  an  intercourse  with  the  na- 
tives. This  lie  effected  not  without  some  diflicultv; 
for  as  soon  as  tlie  French  landed  the  savafjes  lied  in 
i,nvat  tre])idatioii ;  yet  they  soon  aft<'r  stole  back,  ex- 
hibiting signs  of  much  wonder  and  curiosity.  At 
last,  being  convinced  that  they  had  nothing  to  fear, 
they  completely  recovered  their  confidence,  and  not 
only  brouiiht  provisions  to  the  French,  but  assisted 
them  in  drawing  their  boat  on  shore,  and  carefully 
and  minutely  scrutinized  everything  belonging  to 
the  vessels  and  the  crew.  They  admired  the  white 
skin  of  the  strangers,  handled  their  dress,  and 
exhibited  the  utmost  astonishment  and  delight. 
They  themselves  were  a  handsome  race  of  people, 
their  eyes  dark  and  large,  their  expression  bold, 
open,  and  cheerful ;  their  chests  were  broad,  and 
th^y  combined  middle  stature  and  symmetry  of 
limbs  with  great  nimbleness  and  swiftness  of  foot. 
Their  colour  was  tawny,  not  unlike  the  ^-iaraceiis, 
and  they  wore  their  hair,  which  was  black  and 
thick,  tied  behind  their  head  in  a  little  tail,  and 
sometimes  ornamented  with  a  garland  of  birds' 
feathers.     Their  bodies  were  not  disfigured  or  tat- 

*  Ilamusio,  Viag'^i,  vol.  iii.    p.  420 — "  Dovi  sconsiiumo   una 
terra  iiiiova,  iion  pin  (ia  j^-rantichi  ne  da  inodfrni  vistiu 
t  "  Sta  qucsta  terra  ui  ^vddi  34"."— liamusiu,  voL  iii.  p.  420. 


44 


VERAZZANO. 


toocd  in  cany  way,  and  tlicy  walked  about  perfectly 
naked,  exeept  that  they  wore  short  aprons  of  furs 
fastened  round  their  middh'  by  a  ^'irdle  of  woven 
grass.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  coast  the 
country  was  sandy,  rising  into  ^'entle  undulations; 
as  they  proceeded  it  became  more  elevated,  and 
was  covered  by  noble  woods,  consistin^r,  not  of  the 
usual  forest-trees,  but  of  th<'  palm,  laurel,  cypress, 
and  others  then  unknown  in  Europe,  which  grew  to 
a  great  height,  and  diffused  a  delicious  perfume  that 
was  discerned  far  out  at  sea.  ^*  The  land  also,"  says 
Verazzano  in  his  letter  to  Francis  I., ''  is  full  of  many 
animals,  as  stags,  deer,  and  hares,  which  were  seen 
sporting  in  the  forests,  and  frequenting  the  banks  of 
pleasant  lakes  and  rivers  ;  nor  w^ere  the»  wanting 
great  plenty  and  variety  of  birds  of  gai  "tted  to 
afford  delightful  recreation  for  the  sportsman.  The 
sky  was  clear,  the  air  wholesome  and  temperate,  the 
prevalent  wind  blowing  from  the  west,  and  the  sea 
calm  and  placid.  In  short  a  country  more  full  of  ame- 
nity could  not  well  be  imagined."*  An  excellent 
author  and  navigator  thinks  it  probable  that  the 
spot  where  Verazzano  first  landed  was  on  the  coast 
of  Georgia,  near  the  present  town  of  Savannah.t 

From  this  he  proceeded  along  the  shore,  which 
turned  to  the  eastward  and  appeared  thickly  inha- 
bited, but  so  low  and  open  that  landing  in  such  a 
surf  was  impossible.  In  this  perplexity  a  young 
sailor  undertook  to  swim  to  land  and  accost  the  na- 
tives ;  but  when  he  saw  the  crowds  which  thronged 
the  beach  he  repented  of  his  purpose,  and,  although 
within  a  few  yards  of  the  landing-place,  his  cour- 

jiaaMMM      ■  ■;    »ii—  ■■  i     ■      ■ -■         ■         ■  ,m,—..     ■    -■■■  ■      ■,  i  i  ii  i  ■  ■  ■  iiM   ■   ^i-i    i   ■■    ■    i  i      ■     ■    i-*n  ■  ■  i   i 

*  Ramusio,  vol.  iii.  p.  420. 

•}•  Forster's  Discoveries  iii  the  North,  p.  433. 


VKRAZZANO. 


4r) 


perfectly 
s  of  furs 
)f  woven 
coast  the 
ilations ; 
ted,  and 
)t  of  the 
cy[)ress, 
I  ^'rew  to 
inie  tliat 
so/'  says 
of  many 
/ere  seen 
banks  of 
wanting 
Hted  to 
in.  The 
rate,  the 

the  sea 
ofame- 
xcellent 
tliat  the 
he  coast 
lah.t 

which 
ly  inha- 
L  such  a 

young 

the  na- 

hronged 

Ithough 

is  cour- 


age failed,  and  he  attempted  to  turn  back.     At  this 
moment  the  water  only  reached  his  waist ;  but,  over- 
come with  terror  and  exhaustion,  he  had  scarcely 
strength  to  cast  his  presents  and  trinkets  upon  the 
beach,  when  a  high  wave  cast  him  stupified  and 
senseless  u|)on  the  shore.     The  savages  ran  imme- 
diately to  bis  assistance,  and  carried  him  to  a  little 
distance  from  the  sea,  where  it  was  some  time  be- 
fore he  recovered  his  recollection  ;  and  great  was  his 
terror  when  lu'  found  himself  entirely  in  their  power. 
Stretching  his  hands  towards  the  ship,  he  uttered  a 
oiercing  shriek,   to  which  liis  friends  of  the  New 
World  re[)lied  by  raising  a  loud  yell,  intended,  as 
he  afterw^ards  found,  to  encourage  him.    But,  if  this 
was  sufliciently  alarming,  theii  farther  proceedings 
proved  still  more  formidable.     They  carried  him  to 
the  foot  of  a  hill,  turned  his  face  towards  the  sun, 
kindled  a  large  fire,   and  stripped  him  naked.     No 
doubt  was  now  left  in  the  mind  of  the  unhappy  man 
that  they  were  about  to  offer  him  as  a  sacrifice  to 
the  sun  ;  and  his  companions  on  board,  who  watch- 
ed the  progress  of  the  adventure,  unable,  from  the 
violence  of  the  sea,  to  lend  him  assistance,  were  of 
the  same  opinion.     They  thought,  to  use  Verazza- 
no's  own  words,  that  the  natives  were  going  to  roast 
and  eat  him.*  But  their  fears  were  soon  turned  into 
gratitude  and  astonishment ;  for  they  only  dried  his 
clothes,  warmed  him,  and  showed  him  every  mark 
of  kindness,  caressing  and  patting  his  white  skin  ; 
and  on  observing  that  he  still  trembled  and  looked 
suspicious,  they  assisted  him  to  dress,  conducted  him 
to  the  beach,  tenderly  embraced  him,  and,  pointing 


Ramusio)  vol.  ill.  p.  421. 


40 


VERAZZANO. 


to  the  vessel,  removed  to  ?,  little  distance  to  show 
that  he  was  at  liberty  to  return  to  his  friends. 
This  he  did  by  swimming  to  the  ship's  boat,  whieh 
Jiad  been  put  out  to  receive  him,  followed  by  the 
kind  gestures  of  the  savages,  who  gazed  after  him 
till  ihey  saw  him  safe  among  his  friends.  The  spot 
where  Verazzano  found  this  amiable  people  is  con- 
jectured by  Forster  to  have  been  somewhere  between 
New  Jersey  and  Staaten  Island, 

P'rom  this  the  Florentine  sailed  onward,  observing 
the  coast  trending  to  the  northward,  and  after  a  run 
of  fifty  leagues  came  to  anciior  off  a  delightful  coun- 
try covered  with  the  finest  forests.  The  trees,  al- 
though equally  luxuriant,  did  not  emit  the  same  per- 
fume as  those  before  seen  ;  but  the  region  was  rich, 
covered  with  grass,  and  thickly  peopled,  although 
the  natives  appeared  more  timid  than  the  last,  and 
avoided  all  intercourse.  The  sailors,  however,  dis- 
<'overed  and  seized  a  family  who  had  concealed 
themselves  in  the  underwood,  consisting  of  an  old 
woman,  a  young  girl  of  a  tall  and  handsome  figure, 
and  six  children.  The  two  younger  of  the  little 
ones  were  squatted  on  the  shoulders  of  the  old  wo- 
man, and  another  child  hung  behind  her  back, 
whilst  the  girl  was  similarly  loaded.  On  being 
approached  both  the  females  shrieked  loudly ;  l)ut, 
having  succeeded  in  pacifying  them,  the  sailors 
understood,  by  their  signs,  that  all  the  men  had 
escaped  to  the  woods  on  the  appearance  of  the  ships. 
Much  persuasion  was  now  used  to  induce  them  to  go 
on  board  j  but  although  the  elderly  lady  showed 
symptoms  of  acquiescence,  and  eagerly  ate  the  food 
which  was  offered  her,  no  entreaties  could  soften  the 
obstinacy  and  rage  of  the  younger.     She  uttered 


VERAZZANO. 


47 


e  to  show 
s  friends, 
•at,  Mlii(;li 
od  bv  tlie 
after  him 
Tlie  spot 
le  is  con- 
■i  between 

observin^f 

Iter  a  run 

tful  coun- 

treeSj  al- 

sanie  per- 

was  rich, 

althougli 

last,  and 

ever,  dis- 

concealed 

of  an  old 

no  figure, 

the  little 

L'  old  wo- 

ler   back, 

Jn  being 

lly;  but, 

le   sailors 

men  had 

the  ships. 

lem  to  go 

showed 

the  food 

often  the 

3  uttered 


piercinij  cries,  cast  the  meat  indignantly  on  the 
ground,  and  rendered  the  task  of  dragging  her 
through  tile  thick  woods  so  tedious  and  distressing, 
tiiat  thev  were  obliged  to  desist  and  leave  her,  only 
carrying  with  tlieni  a  litthi  boy,  who  could  make  no 
resistance.'  The  people  of  this  country  possessed 
fairer  complexions  than  those  whom  they  had  just 
left,  aiul  were  clad  with  large  leaves  sewed  together 
with  threads  of  wild  hemp.  Their  common  food  was 
pulse,  but  they  subsisted  also  by  fishing,  and  were 
very  expert  in  catching  birds  with  gins.  Their 
bows  wer(3  made  of  hard  wood,  their  arrows  of  canes 
head(^d  with  fish-bone,  and  their  boats  constructed 
of  one  large  tree  hollowed  by  fire,  for  they  appeared 
to  have  no  instruments  of  iron  or  other  metal.  Wild 
vines  crept  up  the  trunks  of  the  trees,  hanging  in  rich 
festoons  from  th!>  branches,  and  the  l)anks  [uid  mea- 
dows were  covered  with  roses,  lilies,  violets,  and 
many  sorts  of  herbs  difierent  from  those  of  Europe, 
yielding  a  fresh  and  delightful  fragrance. 

Verazzano  now  proceeded  KM)  leagues  farther,  to 
a  sheltered  and  beautiful  bay  surrounded  by  gent- 
ly rising  hills,  and  discovered  a  large  river,  which 
from  its  depth  seemed  navigable  to  a  considerable  dis- 
tance. Fearful,  however,  of  any  accident,  they  as- 
cended it  in  boats ;  and  the  voyage  conducted  them 
through  a  country  so  full  of  sweetness  and  attraction 
that  thev  left  it  with  much  regret. t  Prosecutintj  their 
discoveries  fifty  leagues  eastward,  they  reached  an- 
other island  of  a  triangular  shape,  covered  with  rich 
wood,  and  rising  into  gentle  liills,  which  reminded 
them  of  Rhodes  both  in  its  form  and  general  aspect. 
A  contrary  wind,  however,  rendered  it  impossible  to 


llcinui.sio,  vol.  iii.  p.  421. 


t  Ibid. 


48 


VKRAZZANO. 


land,  and  pursuing  their  course  about  fifteen  leagues 
farther  along  the  coast,  they  found  a  port  where  there 
was  an  excellent  anchorage.     Here  they  were  soon 
visited  by  the  natives,  who  came  in  a  squadron  of 
twenty  boats,  and  at  first  cautiously  kept  at  the  dis- 
tance of  fifty  paces.    Observing,  however,  the  friend- 
ly gestures  of  the  strangers,  they  ventured  nearer,  and 
when  the  French  threw  them  bells,  mirrors,  and 
other  trinkets,  they  raised  a  loud  and  simultane- 
ous shout  expressive  of  joy  and  securit}^,  no  longer 
hesitating  to  row  their  boats  to  the  ship's  side  and 
come  aboard.     They  are  described  by  Verazzano, 
in  his  account  of  the  voyage  sent  to  Francis  I.,  as 
the  finest  and  handsomest  race,  and  the  most  civi- 
lized in  their  manners,  of  any  he  had  yet  met  in 
America.     Their  colour  was  fairer  than  that  of  the 
more  southern  people,  and  in  the  symmetry  of  their 
forms,  and  the  simplicity  and  gracefulness  of  their 
attitudes,  they  almost  vied  with  the  antique.   They 
soon  became  exceedingly  friendly  and  intimate,  and 
conducted  the  French  into  the  interior  of  the  coun- 
try, which  they  found  variegated  with  wood,  and 
more  delightful  than  can  be  easily  described.  Adapt- 
ed for  every  sort  of  cultivation,  whether  of  corn, 
vines,  or  olives,  it  was  interspersed  with  plains  of 
twenty-five  or  thirty  leagues  in  length,  open  and 
unencumbered  with  trees,  and  of  such  fertility,  that 
whatever  fruit  might  be  sown,  was  certain  to  pro- 
duce a  rich    nd  abundant  return.     They  afterwards 
entered  the  \^oods,  which  were  of  great  size,  and  so 
thick  that  a  large  army  mi,9 '^       ve  been  concealed  in 
them.  The  trees  consisted  .  f  oa  s  and  cypresses,  be- 
sides other  species  unknown  to  Europe.   They  found 
also  apples,  parsley,  plums,  and  filberts,  and  many 
other  kinds  of  fruit  different  from  those  of  Italy. 


vp:r^vzzano. 


49 


n  leagues 
liere  there 
ivere  soon 
nadron  of 
i  the  dis- 
lie  friend- 
L^arer,  and 
rorSj  and 
imultane- 
no  longer 
side  and 
erazzano, 
leis  I.,  as 
nost  civi- 
"t  met  in 
lat  of  the 
T  of  their 
s  of  their 
lie.   They 
niatej  and 
the  coun- 
ood,  and 
Adapt- 
of  corn, 
plains  of 
open  and 
ility,  that 
n  to  pro- 
fterwards 
le,  and  so 
icealed  in 
esses^  be- 
ley  found 
nd  many 
of  Italy. 


They  saw  likewise  many  animals,  such  as  harts, 
roes,  wolves,  and  stags,  which  the  natives  caught 
with  snares,  and  destroyed  with  bows  and  arrows, 
their  principal  weapons  of  offence.  The  arrows 
were  niaih'  with  ^Mvat  neatness,  and  at  the  point 
instead  of  iron  they  inserted  flints,  jaspers,  hard 
marhk^  and  other  kinds  of  cut  stones.  These  they 
also  made  us<?  of  in  felling  trees,  and  in  excavat- 
ing their  l)oats,  which,  with  great  skill,  w^ere  made 
of  a  single  trunk,  y<'t  large  enough  to  hold  ten  or 
twelve  UKMi  comniodiously.  Their  oars  were  short 
and  broad  at  the  extremity,  which  they  plied  in  the 
sea  without  any  accident  happening,  trusting  solely 
to  their  strength  of  arm  and  skilful  management, 
and  seeming  able  to  go  at  almost  any  rate  they 
pleased.  Their  houses  were  constructed  in  a  circular 
shape,  tenor  twelve  paces  in  circuit,  built  of  boards, 
and  separated  from  each  other  without  any  atten- 
tion paid  to  architectural  arrangement,  covered 
with  tiles  made  of  clay,  of  excellent  workmanship, 
and  effectually  j)rotect<'d  from  the  wind  and  rain.* 
On  one  subject  alone  they  showed  suspicion,  being 
extremely  jealous  of  the  least  intercourse  between 
the  French  and  their  women.  These  they  would 
on  no  persuasion  allow  to  enter  the  ship,  and  on 
one  occasion,  while  the  king  came  on  l)oard,  and 
spent  some  hours  in  curiously  examining  every  part 
of  the  vessel,  his  royal  consort  was  left  with  her 
female  attendants  in  a  boat  at  some  distance,  and 
strictly  watched  and  guarded. t 

*  Ramusio,  vol.  iii.  p.  422. 

+  This  cnunlrv,  accorciiiip;  to  Vorazzano,  was  situated  in  41?"* 
of"  latitude  (Itaiuusio,  vol.  iii.  p.  422),  wliicli,  if  correct,  would  point 
it  out  as  the  present  Hourishiiiy;  state  of  Massachusetts. 

C 


50 


VERAZZANO. 


The  French  now  bade  adieu  to  tliis  kind  people, 
and  pursued  tlieir  discoveries  for  150  leagues,  ex- 
ploring a  coast  which  extended  first  towards  the 
east  and  afterwards  to  the  north.  The  country  still 
presented  an  agreeable  and  inviting  aspect,  although 
the  climate  became  colder,  and  the  regions  along 
which  they  passed  more  hilly.  A  progress  of  other 
fifty  leagues  brought  them  to  a  more  mountain- 
ous district  than  any  yet  seen,  covered  with  dark 
and  dense  forests,  and  possessef^  by  a  people  whose 
habits  and  temper  seemed  to  partake  of  the  severer 
nature  of  their  country.  On  attempting  to  open 
an  intercourse,  Verazzano  found  them  as  fierce  and 
sullen  as  those  with  whom  he  had  lately  dealt  were 
agreeable  and  generous.  Twenty-five  of  the  crew 
who  landed,  were  received  with  a  shower  of  ar- 
rows ;  and  although  the  exhibition  of  articles  of 
barter  overcame  their  scruples,  and  tempted  them 
to  agree  to  an  interchange  of  commodities,  the  man- 
ner in  which  this  was  effected  evinced  a  striking 
mixture  of  avidity  and  suspicion.  They  came 
down  to  the  beach,  choosing  the  spot  where  the 
surf  was  breaking  most  violently,  and  insisted  that 
the  French  boat  should  remain  on  the  other  side ; 
a  rope  was  then  passed  from  it  to  the  shore,  and 
the  different  articles  were  swung  along  it.  Strings 
of  beads,  toys,  or  mirrors,  they  utterly  despised ; 
but  eagerly  received  knives,  fishing-hooks,  swords, 
saws,  or  any  thing  in  the  shape  of  cutting-metal 
to  be  used  in  war  or  in  the  chase,  though  such  was 
their  savage  temper,  that  during  the  process  of  ex- 
change they  expressed  their  aversion  to  the  stran- 
gers by  uncouth  gestures  of  contempt  and  derision. 
It  seems  probable  that  the  country,  now  for  the  first 


VERAZZANO. 


51 


I  people, 
^ues,  ex- 
ards  the 
iitry  still 
although 
ns  along 
of  other 
oiintain- 
dth  dark 
le  whose 
e  severer 
to  open 
erce  and 
'alt  were 
the  crew 
T  of  ar- 
•ticles  of 
ed  them 
he  man- 
striking 
^y  came 
here  the 
ted  that 
ler  side; 
ore,  and 
Strings 
espised ; 
swords, 
ig- metal 
juch  was 
is  of  ex- 
le  stran- 
derision. 
the  jQrst 


time  visited  by  Europeans,  was  the  present  pro- 
vince of  jMaine  ;  as  we  are  told  by  V\'razzano,  that 
a  farther  run  of  fifty  leagues  along  the  coast  brought 
him  to  a  cluster  of  thirty  islands  separated  by  nar- 
row channels, — a  description  whicL  points  out,  in 
precise  terms,  the  Bay  of  Penobscot.* 

From  this  point  he  pursued  his  indefatigable  course 
for  150  leagues  farther,  till  he  reached  the  land  al- 
ready discovered,  as  he  says,  by  the  Britons,  in  the 
latitude  of  5(F,  which  is  evidently  Newfoundland. 
Here  his  provisions  began  to  fail,  and  thinking  it 
prudent  to  sail  for  France,  he  reached  home  in  safety 
in  the  month  of  July  1524. 

Verazzano  had  thus  completed  the  survey  of  a 
line  of  coast  extending  for  7'^^^  leagues,  and  em- 
bracing the  whole  of  the  United  States,  along 
with  a  large  portion  of  British  America.  It  was 
midoubtedly  a'  .*nterprise  of  great  magnitude  and 
splendour,  and  deserves  to  be  carefully  recorded, 
not  only  as  comprehending  one  of  the  widest  ranges 
of  early  discovery,  but  as  making  us  for  the  urst 
time  acquainted  with  that  noble  country  whose 
history  is  so  important,  and  whose  destinies,  even 
after  a  progress  unrivalled  in  rapidity,  appear  at  this 
moment  only  in  their  infancy.  The  Florentine  gave 
to  the  whole  region  which  he  had  discovered  the 
name  of  New  France ;  he  then  laid  before  the  king 
a  plan  for  completing  his  survey  of  the  coast,  pene^ 
trating  into  the  interior,  and  establishing  a  colony ; 
and  he  appears  to  have  met  with  encouragement 
from  Francis  I.,  who  embraced  his  proposals  for  co- 

*  Murray's  North  America,  vol.  i.  p.  TJ'  The  veracity  of  tlie 
Florentine  navigator,  in  his  description  of  the  ferocious  habits  of 
the  natives,  is  strikingly  corroborated  by  the  determined  and  rancor- 
ous hostility  evinced  afterwards  by  Uie  Indians  of  tills  district  in  op- 
posing every  attempt  at  settlement. 


r)2 


VERAZZANO. 


Ionization.  From  tliis  moment,  however,  liis  liistory 
is  involv(>d  in  ol)S(!urity.  Ilakliiyt  allirms  that  he 
performed  tliree  voyages  to  Nortli  Ameriea,  and 
gave  a  map  of  tlie  coast  to  Henry  VIII.  The  bio- 
graplier  of  Cahot  asserts,  tliat  lie  was  tlie  "  Pied- 
montese  ])ilot"  wlio  wes  slain  on  the  coast  of  Ame- 
rica in  ir)27, '  not  aware  that  A^erazzano  was  a  Flo- 
rentine and  alive  in  \i)'^7 ;  and  l^amusio  could  not 
ascertain  the  particulars  of  his  last  expedition,  or  even 
discover  in  what  year  it  took  ])]ace.  All  that  is  cer- 
tainly known  is,  that  it  proved  fatal  to  this  great 
navigator.  Having  landed  incautiously  upon  the 
American  coast,  he  and  his  party  were  surrounded 
and  cut  to  pieces  by  the  savages ;  after  which  they 
barbarously  devoured  them  in  the  sight  of  their  com- 
panions.t 

The  death  of  Vcrazzano  appears  to  have  thrown 

*  Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  2715. 

-)-  Such  is  tlu>  aocoiiiit  of  Hannisio  in  his  Discourse  upon  New 
France,  vol.  iii.  p.  417.  But  Cardenas,  in  a  work  entitled  "  Ensajn 
('ronologico  j)ara  la  Ilistoria  de  la  Florida,"  (n.  H),  has  committed 
an  eiTor  sinidar  to  that  of  the  writer  of  Cahot  s  life.  He  believes 
that  Verazzano  was  the  same  as  .Juan  the  Florentine,  a  pirate  in 
the  service  of  France,  who  was  taken  by  the  Spaniards  in  1524, 
and  hanji^ed."  The  evidence  which  overturns  the  theories  of  both 
these  authors  is  to  be  found  in  a  letter  of  Annibal  Caro,  quoted  by 
Tiral)osclii,  Storia  della  Letteratura  Ital.,  vol.  vii.  part  i.  mn  2Hl,2f)2, 
from  which  it  apjjears  that  Verazzano  was  alive  in  \i'uy.  Lettere 
Familiari  del.  Comm.  Annibal  Caro,  vol.  i.  p.  11.  In  his  great  work, 
Tiraboschi  has  collected  all  that  is  known  rcg'ardinj^  the  life  of  this 
eminen*  discoverer;  but  this  all  is  little  or  nothing'.  He  was  born 
about  the  year  14}!r) ;  his  father  was  Pierandrea  Verazzano,  a  noble 
Florentiiu',  his  nu)ther  Fiametta  Capelli.  Of  his  youth,  and  for  what 
reasons  lu'  entered  into  the  service  of  Francis  I.,  nothing  is  known. 
The  only  pid)lished  work  of  Verazzano  is  the  narrative  in  Ramusio, 
addressed  to  Francis  I.,  written  with  much  simplicity  and  elegance. 
But  in  the  Strozzi  Library  at  Florence  is  preserved  a  manuscript, 
in  which  he  is  said  to  give,  with  great  minuteness,  a  descripticm  of 
all  the  countries  which  he  had  visited  during  his  voyage,  and  from 
which,  says  Tiiaboschi,  we  derive  the  intelligence  that  he  had  formed 
the  design  of  attempting  a  j)assage  through  these  seas  to  the  Flast 
Indies.  It  is  nnich  to  be  desired  that  some  Italian  scholar  would 
favour  the  world  with  the  publication  of  this  MS.  of  Verazzano. 


CARTIKR. 


53 


is  lii story 
3  that  he 
rioa,  and 
The  bio- 
?  "Pied- 
of  Ame- 
as  a  Flo- 
•ould  not 
n,  or  even 
lat  is  cer- 
liis  great 
upon  tlie 
rrounded 
lich  thev 
heir  com- 

e  tlirown 


upon  New 
ed  "  Ensajo 
?  committed 
He  believes 

a  pirate  in 
ids  in  1524, 
lies  of  both 
0,  (juoted  by 
|)i).2Hl,2H2, 


?: 


Lettere 
^rcat  work, 
'  life  of  thiij 
le  was  born 
ano,  a  noble 
and  for  what 
ig-  is  known, 
in  Ramusio, 
lid  elegance. 
manuHcri[)t, 
["script ion  of 
^e,  and  from 
had  formed 
to  the  East 
holar  would 
razzano. 


i 


a  damp  over  the  farther  prosecution  of  discovery  by 
tlie  court  of  France  ;  but  at  lengtli,  after  an  inter- 
val of  ten  years,  Jaccjues  Cartier,  an  enterprising 
and  able  mariner  of  8t   31alo,  was  chosen   by  the 
Sieur  de  Melleraye,   Vice-Admiral   of  France,  to 
conduct  a  voyage  to  Newfoundland,   which,   since 
its  discovery  by  Cabot,  liad    been  seldom  visited, 
and  was  imperfectly  known.    Cartier  departed  from 
St   INIalo  on  tlie  20th  of  April    la.'U,    with   two 
ships,  each  of  00  tons  burden,  and  having  on  board 
a  well-appointed  crew  of  sixty-one  men."       The 
voyage  appears  to  have  been  limited  to  a  survey  of 
the  northern  coast  of  Newfoundland,  of  which  he 
gives  a  minute  description,  dwelling  particularly  on 
the  zoological  features  of  the  country.     He  found 
the  land  in  most  parts  extremely  wild  and  barren, 
''  in  so  much  that  he  did  not  see  a  cartload  of  iiood 
earth  ;  and  the  inhabitants  were  of  stout  make,  but 
wild  and  unruly."     They  wore  their  hair  tied  on 
the  top  like  a  bunch  of  hay,  fixed  with  a  wooden  bod- 
kin, and  ornamented  with  birds'  feathers.  Like  their 
companions  whom  Cabot  had  described,  they  were 
clothed  in  beasts'  skins,  and  ornamented  their  bo- 
dies  by  painting  them   with  roan. colours.     They 
paddled  about  in  boats  made  of  the  bark  of  birch- 
trees,  in  vv^hich  they  carried  on  a  constant  trade  of 
fishing,  and  caught  great  numbers  of  seals.     After 
having  almost  circumnavigated  Newfoundland,  Car- 
tier  stood  in  towards  the  continent,  and  anchored 
in  a  bay  which,  from  the  extreme  heat,  was  deno- 
minated Baye  du  Chaleur.     The  description  of  the 
inhabitants  of  this  spot  is  striking  and  interesting. 
''  Taking  our  way,"  says  he,  *'  along  the  coast,  we 

•  Ramusio,  vol.  iii.  p.  435. 


54 


CARTIER. 


came  in  sight  of  the  savages,  who  stood  on  tlie  borders 
of  a  lake  in  the  low  grounds,  where  they  had  lighted 
their  fires,  which  raised  a  great  smoke.     We  went 
towards  them,  and  found  that  an  arm  of  the  sea  ran 
into  the  lake,  into  whieh  we  pushed  with  our  boats. 
Upon  this  the  savages  approached  in  one  of  their 
little  barks,  bringing  along  with  them  pieces  of  roast- 
ed seals,  which  they  placed  upon  wooden  boards,  and 
afterwards  retired,  making  signs  that  this  was  in- 
tended as  a  present  for  us.    We  immediately  put  two 
men  ashore,  with  liatchets,  knives,  garlands  for  the 
head,  and  such  like  wares.    On  seeing  these  articles 
they  appeared  mucli  delighted,  and  crowded  to  the 
bank  where  we  were,  paddling  their  barks,  and 
bringing  skins  and  other  articles,  which  they  meant 
to  exchange  for  our  merchandise.     Their  number, 
including  men,  women,  and  children,  was  upwards 
of  300.     Some  of  the  women,  who  would  not  ven- 
ture nearer,  stood  up  to  the  knees  in  water,  sing- 
ing and  dancing.     Others,  wiio  had  passed  over, 
came  to  us  with  great  familiarity,  rubbing  our  arms 
with  their  hands,  which  they  afterwards  lifted  up  to 
heaven,  singing  all  the  while  and  making  signs  of 
joy ;  such  at  last  was  their  friendliness  and  security, 
that  they  bartered  away  every  thing  they  had,  and 
stood  beside  us  quite  naked ;  for  they  scrupled  not 
to  give  us  all  that  was  on  them,  and  indeed  their 
whole  wardrobe  was  not  much  to  speak  of.     It  was 
evident  that  this  people  might  be  without  difficulty 
converted  to  our  faith.     They  migrate  from  place 
to  place,  and  subsist  themselves  by  fishing.     Their 
country  is  warmer  than  Spain,  and  as  beautiful  as 
can  be  imagined, — level,  and  covered  even  in  the 
smallest  spots  with  trees,  and  this  although  the  soil 


CARTIER. 


55 


le  borders 
id  lighted 
V\^e  went 
e  sea  ran 
ur  boats. 

of  their 
;  of  roast- 
irds,  and 

was  in- 
j  put  two 
Is  for  the 
e  articles 

d  to  the 
rks,  and 
iy  meant 
number, 
upwards 
not  ven- 
er,  sing- 
ed over, 
)ur  arms 
ed  up  to 

signs  of 
lecurity, 
lad,  and 
pled  not 
^d  their 

It  was 

ifficulty 

m  place 

Their 

itiful  as 

in  the 
the  soil 


is  sandv.  It  is  full  also  of  wild  corn,  which  hath  an 
ear  similar  to  rye.  We  saw  many  !>eautiful  nu>adows 
full  of  rich  grass,  and  lakes  where  there  were  j)lenty 
of  salmon.  The  savages  called  a  hatchet  cochi,  and 
a  knife  bacon."*  All  the  navigators  who  had  hither- 
to visited  Newfoundland,  on  reaching  its  northern- 
most point,  appear  to  have  sailed  across  the  Straits 
of  Belleisle  to  Cape  Charles  upon  the  coast  of  La- 
brador; but  the  course  of  Cartier  led  him  through 
the  straits  into  the  great  Gulf  of  St  Lawrence,  now 
for  the  first  time  visited  by  any  European.  His  pre- 
decessor, Verazzano,  after  reaching  the  shore  of  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  had  probably  sailed  along  the  coast  of 
Nova  ►')COtia  until  he  reached  Cape  Breton.  Car- 
tier,  on  tiic  contrary,  saw  before  him  a  wide  and  ex- 
tensive field  of  discovery  to  the  west,  which  he  pur- 
sued for  some  time,  directing  his  course  along  the 
coast  of  the  Bay  of  St  Lawrence  ;  but,  as  the  season 
was  far  advanced  and  the  weather  became  precari- 
ous, he  determined  to  reserve  a  more  complete  exa- 
mination of  this  unknown  country  for  a  second  voy- 
age, and  returned  safely  to  France,  coming  to  an- 
chor in  the  port  of  St  Malo  upon  the  5th  of  Sep- 
tember 1534.t 

Having  been  received  with  favour  and  distinc- 
tion, Cartier,  after  a  short  interval,  embarked  upon 
a  second  voyage.  His  squadron  consisted  of  three 
ships, — the  Great  Hermina,  of  which  Cartier  him- 
self was  master,  being  a  vessel  of  about  120  tons, 
the  Little  Hermina  of  60  tons,  and  the  Hermiril- 
lon  of  40  tons  burden.  The  crews  solemnly  pre- 
pared themselves  for  their  voyage  by  confession  and 


•  Raniusio,  vol.  iii.  p.  438. 


t  Ibid.  p.  440. 


""«»"««»lwia||^ 


56 


CARTIERS  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


the  reception  of  the  sacrament ;  after  wliich  tliey  en- 
tered in  a  body  into  the  elioir  of  the  cathedral,  and 
stood  before  the  l)ishop,  who  was  clothed  in  his  cano- 
nicals, and  devoutly  ^^ave  them  his  benediction. 
Havin^^  fulfilled  these  rites,  the  fleet  weijfhed  anchor 
on  the  loth  of  IMay  1535,  and  the  admiral  steered 
direct  for  Newfoundland.  His  ships,  however,  were 
soon  after  separated  in  a  storm,  and  did  not  agaiii 
join  company  till  the2()th  of  June;  after  which  they 
proceeded  to  explore  the  large  gulf  which  he  liad  al- 
ready enten^d.  ''  It  was,"  to  use  the  words  of  the  na- 
vigator himself,  '■'  a  very  fair  gulf,  full  of  islands,  pass- 
ages, and  entrances  to  what  wind  soever  you  pleased 
to  bend,  having  a  great  island  like  a  cape  of  land 
stretching  somewhat  farther  forth  than  the  others." 
This  island  is  evidently  that  named  by  the  English 
Anticosti,  being  merely  a  corruption  of  Natiscotec, 
the  appellation  at  this  day  given  it  by  the  natives. 
To  the  channel  between  it  and  the  opposite  coast  of 
Labrador,  Cartier  gave  the  name  of  St  Lawrence, 
which  has  since  been  extended  to  the  whole  gulf. 

On  reaching  the  eastern  point  of  the  island  of 
Anticosti,  the  Frencli,  who  had  along  with  them 
two  of  the  natives  of  the  country,  whom  they  had 
induced  in  their  former  voyage  to  accompany  them 
to  France,  requested  their  advice  as  to  their  far- 
ther progress.  The  savages  stated,  that  the  gulf 
in  which  they  now  lay  gradually  contracted  its 
dimensions  till  it  terminated  in  the  mouth  of  a 
mighty  river  named  Hochelaga,  flowing  from  a  vast 
distance  in  the  interior  of  a  great  continent.  That 
two  days'  sail  above  Anticosti  would  bring  them  to 
the  kingdom  of  Saguenay,  beyond  which,  along  the 
bank  of  the  same  river,  was  a  populous  territory,  si- 


CAIITIKUS  SECOND  VOVAGK. 


57 


tliey  en- 

(Iral,  and 

liis  rano- 

1  edict  ion. 

'd  anchor 

il  steert'd 

vcr,  were 

lot  agaiii 

liicli  they 

e  liad  al- 

)f  tile  na- 

ids,  pass- 

u  j)leased 

i  of  land 

'  otliers." 

'  English 

atiscotec, 

natives. 

e  coast  of 

awrence, 

e  gulf. 

sland  of 

til  them 

they  Iiad 

ny  them 

leir  far- 

tlie  gulf 

icted  its 

ith  of  a 

m  a  vast 

.     That 

them  to 

long  the 

tory,  si- 


tuated at  its  highest  known  point,  where  the  stream 
was  only  navigable  by  small  boats.  Having  receiv- 
ed  this  information,  Cartier  sailed  onwards,  explor- 
ing both  sides  of  the  river,  and  o{)ening  a  communis 
cation  with  the  inhabitants  by  means  of  the  natives 
whom  he  carried  along  with  him.  The  good  effects 
of  this  arraiiijement  were  soon  seen  ;  for  at  first 
they  fled  in  great  alarm  upon  the  approach  of  any 
of  the  ships'  crews  ;  but  on  hearing  the  interpreters 
cry  out  that  they  were  Taignoagny  and  Domagaia, 
— names  which  seemed  to  inspire  immediate  ideas  of 
friendliness  and  confidence, — they  suddenly  turned 
back ;  after  which  they  began  to  dance  and  rejoice, 
running  away  with  great  speed,  and  soon  returning 
with  eels,  fishes,  grain,  and  musk-melons,  which  they 
cast  into  the  boats  with  gestures  expressive  of  much 
kindness  and  courtesy."  This  soon  led  to  a  more 
intimate  and  iiiti  resting  intercourse ;  and  on  the  fol- 
lowing day  the  lord  of  the  country,  who  was  named 
Donnaconna,  made  a  formal  visit  to  the  admiral's 
ship,  accomi)aiiied  by  twelve  boats,  in  which  were 
a  great  multitude  of  his  subjects.  On  approaching 
tlie  vessel  he  ordered  ten  of  these  boats  to  ship  their 
paddles  and  remain  stationary,  while  he  himself, 
with  the  other  two  boats,  and  attended  by  a  suite 
of  sixteen  of  his  subjects,  advanced  over  against  the 
smallest  of  the  French  ships,  and  standing  up,  com- 
menced a  long  oration,  throwing  his  body  into  a  va- 
riety of  strange  and  uncouth  postures,  which  were 
afterwards  discovered  to  be  signs  indicating  glad- 
ness and  security.  Donnaconna  now  came  aboard 
the  admiral's  ship,  and  an  enthusiastic  interview 
took  place  between  him  and  the  two  savages  who 

*  Kamusio,  vol.  iii.  p.  441. 


.58 


CAUTIKU  S  SKCONI)  VOVAGK. 


h.ad  been  in  France.*  They  rcroiintcd  with  much 
gcsticuhition  the  extraordinary  tilings  which  they 
liad  seen  in  tliat  country,  dwellint,^  on  the  kind  en- 
tertainment they  had  experienced,  and  after  many 
expressive  looks  of  won(U'r  and  gratituch',  the  king 
entreated  tlie  admiral  to  stretch  out  his  arm,  which 
he  kissed  with  d(;votion,  laying  it  fondly  upon  his 
neck,  and  showing,  hy  gestures  which  could  not  l)e 
mistaken,  that  he  wished  to  make  much  of  him. 
Cartier,  anxious  to  evinc(?  an  equal  confidence,  en- 
tered Donnaconna's  boat,  carrying  with  him  a  col- 
lation of  bread  and  wine^  with  which  the  monarch 
w^as  much  pleased,  and  the  French,  returning  to 
their  ships,  ascended  the  river  ten  leagues,  till  they 
arrived  at  a  village  where  this  friendly  potentate 
usually  resided,  and  which  was  named  Stadacona. 
"  It  was,"  according  to  the  original  account  of  Car- 
tier,  ''  as  goodly  a  plot  of  ground  a.>  possibly  might 
be  seen,  very  frui'  ^lI,  and  covered  with  noble  trees 
similar  to  those  of  France,  such  as  oaks,  elms, 
ashes,  wahmt-tr-  es,  mj  (de-trees,  citrons,  vines,  and 
white  thorns  which  brought  forth  fruit  like  dam- 
sons, and  beneath  these  woods  grew  as  good  hemp  as 
any  in  France,  without  its  being  either  planted  or 
cultivated  by  man's  labour."t 

From  this  time  the  intercourse  between  the 
French  and  Donnaconna  continued  .vith  every  ex- 
pression of  friendliness ;  but  on  hearin;L:  *hat  the 
admiral  had  determined  to  go  ^o  Jlocheiagit.  a  sud- 
den jealousy  appijared  to  seize  him  lest  he  and  his 
people  shuii'd  be  deprived  of  the  advantages  of 
an   uninterrupted  communication  with  the  white 


•  Rannisio,  vol.  iii.  p.  443.    Seconda  Relatione  di  Jacques  Cartier. 
•j-  Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  2lH. 


cartikr's  skcond  voyaok. 


r>9 


v\i\\  much 
Iiicli  they 
kind  t'n- 
tt(T  many 
,  tlie  king 
•m,  wliich 
upon  liis 
uld  not  Ik? 
h  of  him. 
h'lice,  cn- 
hini  fi  col- 
'  monarch 
urnin^^  to 
i,  till  they 
potentate 
Stadacona. 
nt  of  Car- 
l)ly  might 
loble  trees 
iks,  elms, 
v'ines^  and 
like  dam- 
l  hemp  as 
planted  or 

ween  the 
every  ex- 
*hut  the 
[jii.  a  sud- 
le  and  his 
ntages  of 
he  white 

iiies  Cartier. 


Strangers,  and  every  possible  device  was  put  in  exe- 
cution to  deter  them  from  their  |)urp()se.  One  of 
these  stratagems  was  so  ludicrous  that  we  may  be 
permftted  to  give  Cartier's  account  of  it  in  an 
abridgment  of  the  quaint  translation  of  Ilakluyt: 
"  The  next  day,  being  the  UUli  of  September,  these 
meii  still  erideuvoured  to  seek  all  means  possible  to 
hinder  us  from  going  to  Ilochelaga,  and  for  this 
purpose  devised  a  pretty  guile :  They  went  and 
dressed  three  men  like  devils,  being  wrapped  in  dogs' 
skins,  white  and  black,  with  their  faces  besmeared 
as  i)lack  as  a  coal,  and  horns  upon  their  heads  more 
than  a  yard  long."  These  figures  they  caused  to  be 
secretly  put  into  one  of  the  boats,  which  they  con- 
cealed within  a  winding  of  tlu;  wooded  bay,  waiting 
patiently  for  the  tide.  When  the  proper  moment 
had  arrived,  a  multitude  of  the  l)()ats,  crowded 
with  natives  and  conducted  by  Taignaogny,  sud- 
denly <Mnerged  from  the  creek ;  on  a  signal  given, 
the  boat  in  which  were  the  counterfeit  devils  came 
rushing  out  of  its  concealm<'nt,  and  the  middle- 
most devil  standing  up  made  a  long  oration,  ad- 
dressed to  the  French  ships,  of  which  of  course  every 
syllable  was  unintelligible.  '^  Then,"  to  resume  the 
words  of  Ilakluyt,  ''  did  King  Donnaconna  with  ali 
his  people  pursue  them,  and  lay  hold  on  the  boat 
and  devils,  who,  so  soon  as  the  men  were  come  to 
them,  fell  prostrate  as  if  they  had  been  dead,  upon 
which  they  were  taken  up  and  carried  into  the 
wood,  being  but  a  stonecast  off,  at  which  time  every 
one  of  the  savages  withdrew  himself  into  the  wood, 
and  when  there  began  to  make  a  long  discourse,  so 
loud  that  it  was  easy  for  the  French  to  hear  them 
even  in  their  ships.    When  this  oration  or  debate, 


GO 


CARTIKR  S  SECOND  VOi'AGP:. 


whit'li  lasted  for  lialf  an  liour,  >vas  end<'(',  Cartier 
and  liis  crew  espied  Taigna(  yiy  and  Domafjaia 
coming  towards  them,  lioldiiit(  their  liands  joined 
togetlier,  carrying  their  liats  uiukr  their  upper  gar- 
ment, showing  a  great  admiration;,  and  looking  up 
to  lieaven.  Upon  tliis  tlie  captain  hearing  tiiem,  and 
seeing  their  gestures  and  ceremonies,  asked  them 
wliat  they  ailed,  and  what  was  happened  or  chanced 
anew,  to  which  tliey  answered  that  there  were  very 
ill  tidings  befallen,  saying  in  their  l^roken  French, 
'  Nenni  est  il  bon,'  that  is  to  say,  it  was  not  good. 
Our  captain  asked  them  again  what  it  was,  and 
tlien  they  answered  that  their  god  Cudraigny  had 
spoken  in  Ilochelaga,  and  that  he  had  sent  those 
three  devils  to  show  unto  tliem  that  there  was  so 
much  ice  and  snow^  in  that  country  that  whosoever 
w^ent  there  should  die;  which  words  when  the 
Frendi  heard  they  'aughed  and  mocked  them,  say- 
ing that  their  god  Cudraigny  was  ])ut  a  fool  and  a 
noddie,  for  he  knew  not  what  he  said  or  did.  They 
Imde  them  also  carry  their  compliments  to  his  mes- 
sengers, and  inform  them  that  the  god  whom  they 
served  would  defend  them  from  all  cold  if  they  would 
only  believe  in  him."- 

Having  thus  failed  in  tlie  object  intended  to  be 
gained  by  this  extraordinary  masquerade,  the  savages 
offered  no  farther  opposition,  and  the  French  proceed- 
ed in  their  pinnace  and  two  boats  up  the  river  St  Law- 
rence towards  Hochelaga.  They  found  the  country 
on  both  sides  extremely  rich  and  l)eautifully  varied, 
covered  with  fine  wood,  and  abounding  in  vines^ 
though  the  grapes,  from  want  of  cultivation,  were 
neither  so  large  nor  so  sweet  as  those  of  France.  The 


Haklujtj  Tol.  iii.  p.  218;  a'ld  Ilanmsio,  vol.  iii.  p.  444. 


r'^**^*»pH 


CARTIER  S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


61 


I,  Cartier 
Doma^aia 
(Is  joined 
ipper  gar- 
[}oking  up 
thein,  and 
keel  them 
»r  chanced 
were  very 
1  Frencli, 
not  good, 
was,  and 
aigny  liad 
>ent  those 
ere  was  so 
vvliosoever 
when  the 
liem,  say- 
bol  and  a 
d.  They 
►  liis  mes- 
hom  they 
ley  would 

ded  to  be 
he  savages 
1  proceed- 
3rStLaw- 
le  country 
ly  varied^ 
in  vines^ 
ion,  were 
mce.  The 

p.  444. 


prevalent  trees  were  tlie  same  as  in  Europe, — oaks, 
elnis,  wahuit,  cedar,fir,  ash,l)OX,and  wiMow;  and  the 
/latives  on  eacli  side  of  tlie  river,  who  aj)peare(l  to  ex- 
ercise principally  the  trade  of  fishermen,  entered  into 
an  intercourse  with  the  strarjrers  as  readilv  and  kind- 
Iv  as  if  thev  had  heen  tlu'ir  own  countrymen.  One 
of  the  lords  of  the  country  did  not  scruple  after  a 
short  acquaintance  to  make  a  present  to  ('artier  of 
two  of  his  children,  one  of  whom,  a  little  ',rirl  of 
seven  or  eiirht  years  old,  he  carried  away  with  him, 
whilst  he  returned  the  other,  a  boy,  who  was  con- 
siden'd  too  young  to  travel.  'V\u'y  saw  great  variety 
of  hirds,  almost  all  of  which  were  the  same  as  those 
of  Europe.  Cranes,  swans,  geese,  ducks,  j)lieasants, 
partridges,  thrushes,  hlackhirds,  turtles,  finches,  red- 
breasts, niiihtiniiales,  and  sparrows  of  divers  kinds, 
were  ohserved,  besides  manv  other  hirds. 

Bv  this  time  the  river  had  become  narrow,  and  in 
some  j)laces  dangerous  in  its  navigation  owing  to  the 
rapids;  and  the  French,  who  had  still  three  days'  sail- 
ing before  them,  left  their  pinnace  and  took  to  their 
boats,  in  which,  after  a  prosperous  passage,  they 
reached  the  city  of  iiochelaga.  It  consisted  of  about 
fifty  houses,  built  in  the  midst  of  large  and  fair 
corn-fields  near  a  great  mountain,  which  the  French 
called  ]Mont  Royale,  corrupted  by  time  into  IMont- 
real,  which  name  the  place  still  retains;  whilst  the 
original  American  designation  of  Iiochelaga  lias  been 
long  since  forgotten.  The  city,  according  to  Cartier's 
description,  was  round,  compassed  about  with  tim- 
ber, and  with  three  courses  of  ramparts,  one  within 
another,  framed  like  a  sharp  spire,  but  laid  across 
above.  The  enclosure  which  surrounded  the  town 
was  in  height  about  two  roods,  having  but  one  gate, 


,M4*!W»%;*|k,  , 


62 


TOWN  OF  IIOCIIELAGA. 


which  was  slmt  witli  piles,  stakes^  and  ])ars.    Over 
it,  and  also  in  various  parts  of  tlie  wall,  were  places 
to  run  along,  and  ladders  to  get  up,   with  maga- 
zines or  heaps  of  stones  for  its  defence.     The  houses 
were  entirely  of  wood,  with  roofs  of  bark  very  arti- 
ficially joined  together.     Each  liouse  had  a  court  in 
the  midst  of  it,  and  consisted  of  many  rooms,  wdiilst 
the  family  lighted  their  fire  in  the  centre  of  the  court, 
and  during  the  day  all  lived  in  common;  at  night 
the  husbands,  wives,  and  children,  retired  to  their 
several  chambers.     At  the  top  of  tlu.'  house  were 
garners   where   they  kept    their   corn,   which  was 
something  like  the  millet  of  Brazil,  and  called  by 
them  carracony.     They  had  also  stores  of  pease  and 
beans,   with   musk-melons   and   great   cucumbers. 
Many  large  butts  were  observed  in  their  houses,  in 
which  they  preserved  their  dried  fish ;  })ut  this,  as 
well  as  all  their  other  victuals,  they  dressed  and  ate 
without  salt.     They  slept  upon  beds  of  bark  spread 
on  the  ground,  with  coverings  of  skins  similar  to 
those  of  which  their  clothes  were  made.* 

Tlie  reception  of  the  French  by  the  inhabitants 
of  Hochelaga  was  in  a  high  degree  friendly ;  and 
indeed  such  was  the  extent  of  their  credulity  and 
admiration,  that  they  considered  the  strangers  as 
possessed  of  miraculous  power,  and  their  com- 
mander a  divine  person.  This  was  shown  by  their 
bringing  their  king,  Agonhanna,  an  infirm  para- 
lytic about  fiftj  years  of  age,  to  be  touched,  and,  as 
they  trusted,  cured  by  the  admiral,  earnestly  im- 
portuning him  by  expressive  gestures  to  rub  his  arms 
and  legs ;  after  which  the  savage  monarch  took  the 
wreath  or  crown  which  he  wore  upon  his  head  and 

•  Ramiisio,  vol.  iii.  p.  445  ;  and  Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  pp.  220,  221. 


CAKTIER  S  SP:C0ND  VOYAGK. 


63 


s.  Over 
re  places 
h  maga- 
le  liouses 
^ery  arti- 
,  court  in 
is,  whilst 
;lie  court, 
at  night 
to  their 
use  were 
liich  was 
called  by 
)ease  and 
icunibers. 
louseSj  in 
[t  this,  as 
i  and  ate 
V  spread 
milar  to 


•K 


labitants 
ly;  and 
ility  and 
iiigers  as 
ir  com- 
hy  their 
ni  para- 
,  and,  as 
stly  im- 
his  arms 
took  the 
lead  and 


K20, 221. 


gave  it  to  Cartier.     Soon  after  this  they  brought 
with  tliem  all  the  diseased  and  aged  folks  whom 
they  could  coilcct,  and  besought  him  to  heal  them; 
on  which  occasion  his  conduct  appears  to  Iiave  been 
that  of  a  man  of  sincere  piety.     He  neither  arro- 
gated to  Jiitnself  miraculous  powers,  nor  did  he  al- 
together   refuse  their   earnest   rec^uest ;    but   read, 
from  the  Gospel  of  St  John,  the  passion  of  our  Sa- 
viour, and  praying  that  the  Lord  would  be  pleased  to 
open  the  hearts  of  these  forlorn  pagans,  and  teach 
tliem  to  know  the  truth,  he  laid  his  hands  upon  them, 
and  making  the  sign  of  the  Cross,  left  the  issue  of 
their  being  healed  or  not  in  the  hand  of  their  Creator.* 
On  inquiring  into  their  religious  tenets,  he  found 
that  they  were  buried   in   tlie   deepest   ignorance 
and  superstition,  unacquainted  w'ith  the  existence 
of  the   only   true   God,   and    substituting    in   his 
place  a  capricious  and  horrid  being  of  their  own 
imaginations,  named  Cudraigny.      They  affirmed 
that  he  often  spoke  to  them,  and  told  them  what 
kind  of  weather  they  were  to  have ;  but,  if  angry, 
w^ould  punish  them  by  throwing  dust  in  their  eyes. 
They  had  a  strange  and  confused  idea  regarding 
the  immortality  of  tliv   soul,  believing   that   after 
death  thev  went  to  the  stars,  and  descended  IDlc 
these  bright  sparks  by  degrees  to  the  horizon,  where 
they  wandered  about  in  delicious  green  fields,  which 
were  full  of  the  most  precious  trees,  and  profusely 
sown  with  fruits  and  flowers.     Cartier  explained  as 
well  as  he  could  the  folly  of  such  a  creed,  persuaded 
them  that  Cudraigny  was  no  god  but  a  devil,  and 
at  his  departure  promised  to  return  again,  and  bring 


*  Ilamusio,  vol.  iii.  p.  448. 


-^m 


64 


cartier's  second  voyage. 


some  good  and  lioly  men,  ^vllo  would  instruct  them 
in  tlie  knowledge  of  the  true  and  only  God,  and 
baptize  them  in  the  name  of  his  Son,  with  which 
tliey  declared  themselves  well  pleased."'  "^  There 
groweth  liere,"  says  C'artier,  "  a  certain  kind  of 
herb,  of  which  during  the  summer  they  collect  a 
great  quantity  for  winter  consumption,  esteeming  it 
much,  and  only  permitting  men  to  use  it,  in  the 
following  manner:  It  is  first  dried  in  the  sun; 
after  which  they  wear  it  about  their  necks,  wrapped 
in  a  little  skin  made  in  the  shape  of  a  bag,  along 
witli  a  hollow  piece  of  stone  or  of  wood  formed  like 
a  pipe ;  after  this  they  bruise  it  into  a  powder, 
which  is  put  into  one  of  the  ends  of  the  said  cornet 
or  pipe,  and  laying  a  coal  of  fire  upon  it  at  the  other 
end,  they  suck  so  long  that  they  fill  their  bodies  full 
of  smoke  till  it  comes  out  of  their  mouth  and  nostrils, 
even  as  out  of  the  tunnel  of  a  chimney.  They  say 
that  this  keeps  them  warm  and  in  health,  and  never 
go  without  some  of  it  about  them."  It  is  not  impos- 
sible that  the  reader,  perplexed  by  this  laboriously 
minute  description,  may  have  failed  to  recognise  in 
it  the  first  acquaintance  made  by  the  French  with 
the  salubrious  and  far-famed  plant  of  tobacco.t 

Not  long  after  this  the  ships'  crews  were  seized 
with  a  loathsome  and  dreadful  disease,  caught,  as 
they  supposed,  from  the  natives,  wiiich  carried  off 
twenty-five  men,  reducing  the  survivors  to  a  state 
of  pitiable  weakness  and  suffering.  The  malady 
was  then  new  to  Europeans ;  but  the  symptoms  de- 
tailed by  Cartier, — swollen  legs,  extreme  debility, 
putrified  gums,  and  discoloration  of  the  skin  and 


a 


*  Ramusio,  vol.  iii.  p.  449. 
7 


t  Ibid. 


CARTIER  S  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


UO 


ruct  them 
God,  and 
til  wliich 
''  There 
1  kind  of 
'  collect  a 
eeming  it 
it,  in  the 
the   sun; 
,  wrapped 
)ag,  along 
rmed  like 
%  powder, 
aid  cornet 
t  the  other 
bodies  full 
>d  nostrils, 
They  say 
and  never 
lot  impos- 
aboriously 
cognise  in 
nch  with 
icco.t 
ere  seized 
aught,  as 
arried  off 
to  a  state 
malady 
ptoms  de- 
debility, 
skin  and 


e 


blood,  leave  no  doubt  that  this  ''  strange,  unknown," 
and  cruel  pestilence,  was  the  scurvy,  since  so  fatally 
familiar  to  the  European  mariner.  Providentially, 
hovv'cvcr,  they  discovered  from  the  savages  a  cure  in 
the  decoction  of  the  leaves  and  bark  of  a  species  of 
tree  called  in  their  language  hannida,  and  since  well 
known  as  the  North  American  white  pine.  ''  This 
medicine,"  says  Cartier,  "  worked  so  well,  that  if  all 
the  physicians  of  JMontpelier  and  Louvain  had  been 
there  with  all  the  drugs  of  Alexandria,  they  would 
not  have  done  so  much  in  one  year  as  that  tree  did 
in  six  days."'- 

The  French  began  now  to  make  preparations  for 
their  departure ;  bu^,  a  dishonourable  plot  was  first 
carried  into  execution,  by  which  they  succeeded  in 
seizing  Donnaconna,  wiiose  usefulness  and  liberality 
to  them  during  their  residence  in  Canada  merited 
a  more  generous  return.  The  monarch,  however, 
with  the  exception  of  a  slight  personal  restraint  to 
prevent  escape,  was  treated  with  kindness,  and 
soon  became  reconciled  to  his  journey  to  Europe, 
although  his  subjects,  inconsolable  for  his  loss, 
came  nightly  howling  like  wolves  about  the  ships, 
till  assured  he  was  in  safety.  Along  with  Donna- 
conna were  secured  Taignaogny  and  Domagaia,  who 
had  already  been  in  France ;  and,  after  a  prosperous 
voyage,  the  French  ships  arrived  at  St  Malo  on 
the  (Jtli  July  1536.t  It  might  have  been  expect- 
ed that,  after  a  discovery  of  such  magnitude  and 
importance,  immediate  measures  would  have  been 
adopted  to  appropriate  and  colonize  this  fertile,  po- 
pulous,  and  extensive  country.     This  seemed  the 


Uaniusio,  vul.  iii.  p.  4ol. 


■\-  Ibid.  p.  io'ti. 


D 


66 


ROBERVAL. 


more  likely,  as  the  arrival  of  Cartier  and  the  in- 
troduction of  the  Indian  king  at  court  created  an 
extraordinary  sensation  ;  yet  notwithstanding  the 
manifest  advantages,  both  commercial  and  political, 
likely  to  result  from  a  settlement  in  Canada,  the 
weak  and  shallow  prejudice  which  at  this  time  pre- 
vailed in  most  of  the  nations  of  Europe,  that  no 
countries  were  valuable  except  such  as  produced 
gold  and  silver,  threw  a  damp  over  the  project,  and 
for  nearly  four  years  the  French  monarch  would 
listen  to  no  proposals  for  the  establishment  of  a  cx)- 
lony. 

Private  adventure  at  length  came  forward  to  a^'- 
complish  that  which  had  been  neglected  by  royal 
munificence,  and  the  Sieur  de  Roberval,  a  noble- 
man of  Picardy,  requested  permission  of  Francis  I. 
to  pursue  the  discovery,  and  attempt  to  form  a  set- 
tlement in  the  country.  This  the  king  readily  grant- 
ed ;  and  as  Roberval  was  opulent,  the  preparations 
were  made  on  a  great  scale.  He  was  created  by 
Francis,  on  the  15th  January  1540,  Lord  of  Norim- 
bega,  Lieutenant-General  and  Viceroy  in  Canada, 
Hochelaga,  Saguenay,  Newfoundland,  Belleisle, 
Carpon,  Labrador,  the  Great  Bay,  and  Baccalaos, — 
empty  and  ridiculous  titles,  which,  if  merited  by 
any  one,  ought  to  have  been  conferred  upon  Cartier. 
This  eminent  navigator,  however,  was  only  permit- 
ted to  accepi  a  subordinate  command ;  and  as  Ro- 
berval, who  wished  to  appear  with  splendour  in  his 
new  dominions,  was  detained  in  fitting  out  two 
vessels  which  were  liis  own  property,  Cartier  was 
ordered  to  sail  before  him  with  the  five  ships  al- 
ready prepared.  He  accordingly  did  so;  but  Don- 
naconna,  the  Canadian  king,  had  died  in  France, 


ROBERVAL. 


(37 


d  the  in- 
reated  an 
iding  tlic 

political, 
iiada,  the 
time  pre- 
,  that  no 

produced 
ojectj  and 
eh  would 
[t  of  a  co- 

ird  to  a^'- 
by  royal 
a  noble- 
Francis  I. 
arm  a  set- 
lily  grant- 
eparations 
reated  by 
of  Norim- 
1  Canada, 
Belleisle, 
ccalaos, — 
lerited  by 
)n  Cartier. 
y  permit- 
nd  as  Ro- 
our  in  liis 

out  two 
irtier  was 

ships  al- 
but  Don- 
u  France. 


and  the  savafres^  justly  incensed  at  the  breach  of 
laith  by  which  they  lost  their  sovereign,  received 
the  French  with  an  altered  countenance,  devising 
conspiracies  against  them,  that  soon  led  to  acts  of 
open  hostility.  The  French  now  built  for  their 
defence,  near  the  present  site  of  Quebec,  a  fort, 
which  they  named  Charlesbourg,  being  the  first 
Kuropean  settlement  formed  in  that  part  of  Ame- 
rica. After  a  long  interval  Roberval  arrived  at 
Newfoundland  ;  but  a  jealousy  had  broken  out  be- 
tween him  and  Cartier,  who  took  the  first  oppor- 
tunity during  the  night  to  part  from  his  principal, 
and  return  with  his  squadron  to  France.  This  of 
course  gave  a  death-blow  to  the  whole  undertak- 
ing, for  Roberval  was  nothing  without  Cartier ; 
and,  after  some  unsuccessful  attenipts  to  discover 
a  passage  to  the  East  Indies,  he  abandoned  the  en- 
terprise, and  returned  to  his  native  country.  The 
passion  for  adventure,  however,  again  seized  him 
in  ]549,  and  he  and  his  brother,  one  of  the  bravest 
men  of  his  time,  set  sail  on  a  voyage  of  discovery ; 
but  they  shared  the  fate  of  Verazzano  and  the  Cor- 
tereals,  being  never  again  heard  of.  These  disas- 
ters effect  ually  checked  the  enthusiasm  of  France, 
whilst  in  England,  the  country  to  whose  enterprise 
we  have  seen  Europe  indebted  for  her  first  acquaint- 
ance with  the  American  continent,  the  spirit  of  ma- 
ritime discovery  appearea  for  some  years  almost  to- 
tally extinct. 

The  plan  of  this  historical  disquisition  now  leads 
us  to  the  examination  of  some  remarkable  enter- 
prises of  the  Spaniards  for  the  extension  of  their 
immense  dominions  in  the  New  World,  along  the 
more  northern  coasts  of  America.     The  bold  and 


(JH 


COHTKS. 


comprehensive  mind  of  Cortes,  tlie  conqueror  of 
Mexico,  not  content  witli  the  acquisition  of  that 
noble  empire,  formed  the  most  extensive  projects  of 
discovery.  Alarmed  at  the  attempts  of  the  English 
to  discover  a  northern  passage  to  China  and  Cathay, 
he  resolved  to  make  a  careful  survey  of  the  whole 
coast,  extending  from  the  river  Panuco  in  Mexico  to 
Florida,  and  thence  northwards  to  the  Baccalaos, 
for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining  whether  there  might 
not  exist  in  that  quarter  a  communication  with  the 


DisrOVKIlY  OF  CALIFOIIMA. 


()!> 


^'''r' 


queror  of 
1  of  that 
)rojects  of 
3  English 
I  Cathay, 
ihe  wlioU' 
Mexico  to 
5accalaos, 
Te  might 
witli  tlie 


South  Sea.  At  the  same  time  a  squadron  in  tlie 
Pacific  was  to  sail  along  the  western  coast  of 
America,  and  hy  these  simultaneous  researches  he 
trusted  to  find  a  strait  affording  a  far  shorter  and 
<'asier  route  to  India  and  the  IMoluccas,  and  con- 
necting together  the  vast  dominions  of  the  Spanish 
crown.*  Charles  V.,  to  whom  these  proposals  were 
presented,  although  willing  to  encourage  every 
scheme  for  the  extension  of  his  power,  ungene- 
rously threw  upon  their  author  the  whole  expense 
of  the  undertaking;  in  consequence  of  which,  the 
idea  of  the  voyage  for  the  discovery  of  a  north-west 
passage  was  ahandoned,  and  the  magnificent  designs 
for  the  conquest  of  many  great  and  opulent  king- 
doms sunk  at  last  into  the  equipment  of  two  brigan- 
tineson  the  coast  of  the  South  Sea,  the  command  of 
which  was  intrusted  to  Diego  de  Ilurtado.  This 
expedition  ended  calamitously  in  a  mutiny  of  one  of 
the  crews,  who  brought  back  their  ship  to  Xalisco: 
the  fate  of  Hurtado  was  still  more  unfortunate,  for, 
although  he  continued  his  voyage,  neither  he  nor 
any  of  his  crew  were  ever  more  heard  of.  A  second 
expedition,  intrusted  by  Cortes  to  two  Spanish  cap- 
tains, Grijalva  and  IMendoza,  was  scarcely  more 
fortunate:  The  vessels  were  separated  on  the  first 
night  of  their  voyage,  and  never  again  joined  com- 
pany. Grijalva  penetrated  to  an  island  which  he 
denominated  Santa  Tome,  supposed  to  have  been 
situated  near  the  northern  point  of  California,  after 
which  he  returned  to  Tehuantepec;  whilst  IMendoza, 
by  his  haughty  and  tyrannical  temper,  having  ren- 
dered himself  odious  to  his  crew,  was  murdered  by 


*  Ramusio,  vol.  iii.  p.  21)5.     Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  2()I3. 


■■»P**n«^' 


70 


ULLOA. 


the  pilot,  Ximenes,  who  assumed  the  command. 
Afraid  of  returning  to  ]\Iexico,  the  traitor  sailed 
northward,  and  discovered  the  coast  of  California, 
where  he  was  soon  after  attacked  and  slain,  along 
with  twenty  of  his  crew,  by  the  savage  natives." 

The  survivors,  however,  brought  the  vessel  back 
to  Chianietta,  with  the  tempting  report  that  the 
coast  abounded  in  pearls.  Cortes  now  set  out  him- 
self with  a  squadron  of  three  ships;  and,  although 
his  vessels  were  dreadfully  shattered  in  a  storm, 
pursued  his  voyage  with  his  accustomed  energy,  till 
compelled  to  return  by  a  summons  from  iMexico, 
wJiere  the  breaking  out  of  serious  disturbances  re- 
quired his  immediate  presence.  He  intrusted,  how- 
ever, the  p'*oseCi.aon  of  the  voyage  to  Francisco 
de  Ulloa,  and  this  enterprising  navigator,  though 
at  first  obliged  by  want  of  provisions  to  return 
to  Mexico,  re-victualled  his  ships,  and  again  set 
sail.  The  pious  solemnity  with  wliich  these  ancient 
mariners  were  accustomed  to  regard  their  proeeed- 
ings  is  strikingly  sliown  by  the  first  sentence  of  his 
journal : — "  We  embarked,'*  says  he,  "  in  the  Iia- 
ven  of  Acapulco,  on  the  {Jth  of  July,  in  the  year  of 
our  Lord  1539,  calling  upon  Almighty  God  to  guide 
us  with  liis  holy  hand  to  those  places  where  he 
might  be  served,  and  his  holy  faith  advanced ;  and 
we  sailed  from  the  said  port  by  the  coast  of  Saca- 
tula  and  IMotin,  which  is  sweet  and  pleasant,  owing 
to  the  abundance  of  trees  that  grow  tht/e,  and  the 
rivers  which  pass  through  these  countries,  for  which 
we  often  thanked  God,  their  Creator."t     A  voyage 


*  ILikluvt,  vol.  iii.  p.  3f)4 ;  and  Raniiisio,  Viag-gi,  vol.  iii.  p.  3.55. 
•^  Kainu.sio,  vol.  iii. }).  HIJ'J.  Murray's  North  Anierita,  vol.  ii.  p.  (58. 


.^^SBWlfe.Jp 


ULLOA. 


71 


ommand. 
tor  sailf^l 
'aliforiiiH, 
ill,  along 
tives."' 
'sscl  back 

tliat  tlu- 
out  him- 
although 

a  storm, 
lergy,  tilJ 

jMexico, 
taiu'es  re- 
ed, Iiow- 
Franciseo 
',  tliougli 
to  return 
again  set 
ie  ancient 

pro('<'ed- 
ice  of  his 
1  the  ha- 
le  year  of 
I  to  guide 
/here  he 
'ed;  and 
of  Saca- 
it,  owing 

and  the 
or  which 
^  voyage 


.  iii.  p.  3oo. 
ol.  ii.  p.  (58. 


of  twenty  days  brought  the  squadron  to  the  harlwur 
of  Colinia,  frcin  which  tliey  set  out  on  tlie  23d  of 
August,  and  after  encountering  a  tempest,  in  which 
their  ships  were  se\  rrely  sluittered,  tliey  stood  across 
the  Gulf  of  California,  and  came  to  the  mouth  of 
the  river  St  Peter  and  St  Paul.  On  both  sides  of 
it  were  rich  and  extensive  plains,  covered  with 
beautiful  trees  in  full  leaf;  and  farther  within  the 
Ipjid  exceeding  high  mountauis,  clothed  with  wood, 
and  affording  a  charming  prospect ;  after  which,  in 
a  course  of  fifteen  h  ugues,  they  discovered  two  other 
rivers  as  great  or  greater  than  the  Guadalquiver, 
the  currents  of  whicii  were  so  strong  that  they 
might  be  discerned  three  leagues  off  at  sea. 

Ulloa  spent  a  year  in  examining  the  coasts  and 
havens  on  each  side  of  the  Gulf  of  California.  In 
some  places  tlie  Spaniards  found  the  inhabitants  of 
great  stature,*  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  speak- 
ing a  language  totally  distinct  from  any  thing  they 
had  hitherto  heard  in  America,  and  admirably  dex- 
terous in  diving  and  swimming.  On  one  occasion 
the  crews,  who  had  landed,  were  attacked  with 
fierceness  by  two  squadrons  of  Indians.  These  na- 
tives were  as  swift  as  wild-goats,  exceedingly  strong 
and  active,  and  leaped  from  rock  to  rock,  assaulting 
tlie  Spaniards  with  their  arrows  and  javelins,  which 
broke  and  pierced  their  armour,  and  inflicted  griev- 
ous wounds.  It  is  well  known  that  this  nation 
had  introduced  ilie  savage  practice  of  employing 
bloodhounds  in  their  wars  against  the  Mexicans,  and 
Ulloa  now  used  some  of  these  ferocious  animals 
The  Indians,  however,  discharged  a  shower  of  ar- 

*  Ramusio,  voL  iii.  p.  ^2. 


^•^NSiHilSK- 


7-2 


ITLLOA. 


rows  against  them,  "  l>y  whicli,"  says  Ulloa,  "  H«  - 
rocillo,  our  niastifl',  vvlio  should  have  assisted  us,  was 
jrricvously  wounded  by  three  arrows,  so  that  w* 
eould  l»y  no  entreaty  g<'t  him  to  h}ave  us ;  the  do" 
was  struck  in  the  first  assault  of  the  Indians,  aft<M* 
he  had  behaved  Jiimself  very  gallantly,  and  greatly 
aided  us,  having  set  upon  them  and  put  eight  or 
ten  of  them  out  of  array.  But  the  other  mastiffs 
did  us  more  harm  than  good,  for  when  they  attacked 
the  Indians,  they  shot  at  them  with  their  bows,  and 
we  received  hurt  and  trouble  in  defending  them."*^ 
From  this  unfriendly  coast  the  Spanish  discoverer 
proceeded  to  the  Baya  del  A  bad,  about  a  hundred 
leagues  distant  from  the  point  of  California,  where 
he  found  a  more  pacific  people,  who,  though  they 
exhibited  great  symptoms  of  suspicion,  were  prevail- 
ed upon  to  traffic,  exchanging  pearls  and  parrots' 
feathers  for  the  beads  and  trinkets  of  the  strangers. 
So  little,  however,  were  they  to  be  trusted,  that 
th(?y  afterwards  assaulted  the  ships'  crews,  com- 
pelling them  to  retreat  to  their  vessels  and  pursue 
their  voyage.  They  now  discovered,  in  28°  north 
latitude,  a  great  island,  which  they  denominated 
the  Isle  of  Cedars,  taking  possession  of  it  in  the 
name  of  the  Spanish  monarch.  It  was  inhabited 
by  a  fierce  race  of  Indians,  powerful  and  well  made, 
and  armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  besides  javelins, 
and  long  staves  thicker  than  a  man's  wrist;  with 
these  they  struck  at  the  sailors,  braving  them  with 
signs  and  rude  gestures,  till  at  last  it  was  found 
necessary  to  let  loose  the  two  mastiffs,  Berecillo  and 
Achillo ;  upon  which  they  suddenly  took  to  flight, 
flying  over  the  rough  ground  with  the  speed  of 

*  Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  40!J.     Rarausio,  vol.  iii.  p.  345. 


"-"^  -  ■■-"  '■■ 


irLLOA. 


j:\ 


loa,  "  K( . 
vd  us,  \N  as 
0  that  \vr 
3 ;  the  (Ion 
iians,  after 
ncl  greatly 
it  fight  or 
ir  mastiffs 
y  attacked 
hows,  and 
ff  them.'"^ 
discoverer 
L  hundred 
lia,  wliere 
DUgh  they 
•e  prevail- 
d  parrots' 
strangers, 
stedj  that 
wSj  com- 
id  pursue 
28°  nortli 
lominated 

it  in  the 
inhabited 
ell  made, 

javelins, 
ist;  with 
lem  with 
^as  found 
3cillo  and 
to  flight, 
speed  of 


wild  horses."  ]5eyond  this  island  the  Spaniards 
attcjupted  to  continue  their  discoveries  along  tlie 
coast  of  C'aMforiiia;  l)Ut  a  tempest  iiaving  driven 
them  hack  and  damaged  their  vessels,  they  <leter- 
mined  to  return  to  New  Sj)ain.  In  their  homeward 
voyage  they  were  in  danger  from  a  new  and  extra- 
ordinary enemy;  for,  when  sailing  in  the  main 
ocean  .;t  a  rapid  rate,  ahove  500  whales,  in  sepa- 
rate shoals,  came  athwart  them  within  one  hour's 
space.  Their  monstrous  size  created  great  astonish- 
ment, some  of  them  a])proaching  so  near  the  ship, 
as  to  swim  .  under  the  keel  from  one  side  to  the 
other,  "  whereupon,"  says  PVancis  Preciado,  who 
wrote  the  relation  of  the  voyage,  "  we  were  in  great 
fear  lest  they  should  do  us  some  hurt;  but  they 
could  not,  because  the  ship  had  a  prosperous  and 
good  wind,  aiul  made  much  way,  so  that  it  received 
no  harm  although  they  touched  and  struck  her."t 

In  this  voyage,  which  for  the  first  time  made  the 
world  acquainted  with  the  Gulf  of  California  or  Sea 
of  Cortes,  Ulloa  had  not  been  able  to  spend  sufficient 
time  either  in  a  survey  of  the  coast  or  in  establish- 
ing an  intercourse  with  the  natives.  But  not  long 
after  his  return,  Mendoza,  the  viceroy  of  New  Spain, 
despatched  Friar  IMarco  de  Ni9a  upon  an  expedition 
of  discovery  from  Culeacan,  at  that  time  the  most 
northerly  Spanish  settlement,  to  a  province  called 
Topira,  situated  in  the  mountains.  The  account 
brought  back  of  the  riches  and  extent  of  the  country 
proved  so  tempting  to  the  ambition  of  the  Spaniards, 
that  soon  after  Vasquez  de  Coronado,  an  officer  of 
great  courage  and  experience,  was  appointed  by  I\Ien- 

*  Hiirnusiii,  vol.  iii.  [>.  Jiol.     Ilukluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  419. 
-|-  llaklu^t,  vol.  iii.  p.  424. 


74 


ALARCnON. 


doza  to  tlie  command  of  a  lar^e  force,  for  the  re- 
duction of  tlie  new  territory,  wliilst,  to  co-operate 
with  tliis  land  expedition,  a  naval  armament  was 
fitted  out,  of  which  Ferdinand  de  Alarchon  was  ap- 
pointed admiral,  with  orders  to  explore  the  Gulf  of 
California.  As  far  as  conquest  was  intended,  these 
mighty  preparations  conducted  to  no  permanent  re- 
sults ;  but  the  voyage  of  Alarchon  led  to  some  import- 
ant discoveries. 

After  a  survey  of  the  lower  part  of  the  coast  of 
tlie  gulf,  he  penetrated  with  much  difficulty  and 
hazard  to  the  bottom  of  the  bay,  where  he  found 
a  mighty  river,  flowing  with  so  furious  a  current 
that  they  could  hardly  sail  against  it.*  This 
was  evidently  the  noble  river  now  known  by  the 
name  of  the  Colorado,  which  has  its  rise  in  the 
great  mountain-range  near  the  sources  of  the  Rio 
Bravo  del  Norte,  and  after  a  course  of  900  miles 
falls  into  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  California.  Alar- 
chon determined  to  explore  it;  and  taking  with 
him  two  boats,  with  twenty  men  and  some  small 
pieces  of  artillery,  he  ascended  to  an  Indian  viMage, 
the  inhabitants  of  which,  by  violent  and  furious 
gestures,  dissuaded  the  Spaniards  from  landing. 
The  party  of  natives,  at  first  small,  soon  increas<xl 
to  a  body  of  250,  drawn  up  in  v/arlike  fashion, 
with  bows  and  arrows,  and  displayed  banners. 
The  Spanish  admiral  appeased  them  by  signs, 
throwing  his  sword  and  target  into  the  bottom  of 
the  boat,  and  placing  his  feet  upon  them.  "  They 
began,"  says  he  in  his  letter  to  the  viceroy  Mendoza, 
"  to  make  a  great  murmuring  among  themselves. 


Kamusio,  Viaggi,  vol.  iiu  p.  i^tVo. 


ALARCnON. 


75 


•r  the  re- 
o-operato 
rient  was 
1  was  ap- 
e  Gulf  of 
led,  these 
anent  re- 
e  import- 

e  coast  of 
ulty  and 
lie  found 
L  current 
*  This 
n  by  the 
ie  in  the 
r  the  Rio 

00  miles 
ia.  Alar- 
ing  with 
ne  small 
ti  vi'lage, 

1  furious 
landing. 

increastxl 
fashion, 
banners. 
y  si^ms, 
)ottom  of 
"  They 
lendoza, 
'mselves. 


when  suddenly  one  came  out  from  among  them  with 
a  stall*,  upon  which  he  had  fixed  some  small  shells, 
and  entered  into  the  water  to  give  them  to  me.  I 
took  them,  and  made  signs  to  him  that  he  should  ap- 
proach. On  his  doing  so  I  embraced  him,  giving 
liim  in  exchange  some  trinkets,  and  he  returning 
to  his  fellows,  they  began  to  look  upon  them  and 
to  parley  together;  and  within  a  while  many  of 
them  cheerfully  approached,  to  whom  1  made  signs 
that  they  sliould  lay  down  their  banners  and  leave 
their  weapons  ;  which  they  did  immediately."  Al- 
archon  gives  a  minute  description  of  the  dress,  weap- 
ons, and  appearance  of  these  Indians.  They  were 
decked  after  sundry  fashions  ;  the  faces  of  some  were 
(X)vered  with  tattooed  marks,  exti'iidijig  lengthwise 
from  the  forehead  to  the  chin,  others  had  only  half 
the  face  thus  ornamented;  but  all  were  besmeared 
with  coal,  and  every  one  as  it  liked  him  best.  Others 
carried  vizards  before  them,  which  had  the  shape  of 
face3.*  They  wore  on  their  heads  a  piece  of  deer- 
skin two  spans  broad,  like  a  helmet,  ornamented 
by  various  sorts  of  feathers  stuck  upon  small  sticks. 
Their  weapons  were  bows  and  arrows,  and  two  or 
three  kinds  of  maces  of  wood  hardened  in  the  fire. 
Their  features  were  handsome  and  regular,  but 
disfigured  by  holes  bored  through  the  nostrils  and 
in  many  parts  of  the  ears,  on  which  were  hung 
pendants,  shells,  and  bones.  About  their  loins 
was  a  girdle  of  divers  colours^  with  a  large  bunch 
of  feathers  in  the  middle,  which  hung  down  like  a 
tail.  They  cut  their  hair  short  before,  but  allow- 
ed it  behind  to  grow  down  to  their  waist.     Their 

*  Such  is  the  traaslatiou  of  Hukluyt ;  but  the  passa^^o  in  the  ori- 
ginal kj  obscure. 


0  '] 


'I* 


ALARCIION. 


l)odies  were  tattooed  witli  coals,  and  tlie  women  wore 
round  their  waist  a  ^^reat  wreath  of  painted  feathers, 
frilled  together^  and  hanging  down  both  before  and 
behind.* 

Having  procured  by  signs  a  pacific  reception  from 
this  new  j)eople,  Alarchon  found  to  liis  mortifica- 
tion that  they  dil  not  understand  liis  interpreter  ; 
but,  after  a  little  intercourse,  observing  that  they 
worshipped  the  sun,  he  unscrupulously  intimated  to 
them  by  significant  gestures,  that  he  came  from  that 
luminary ;  "  upon  which  tliey  marvelled,"  says  he, 
"^  and  began  to  survey  me  from  top  to  toe,  and  show- 
ed me  more  favour  than  they  did  before."     Soon 
after  this  a  man  was  found  among  them  who  could 
speak  the  language  of  the  interpreter ;  and  an  in- 
tercourse of  a  very  extraordinary  nature  took  place, 
in  which  the  honesty  and  simplicity  of  the  Indians 
are  strikingly  contrasted  with  the  false  and  unprin- 
cipled policy  of  the  Spaniards.     The  passage  is  un- 
commonly graphic  and  interestmg :  "  The  Indian 
first  desired  to  know  what  nation  we  were,  and 
whence  we  came  ?  Whether  we  came  out  of  the  wa- 
ter, or  inhabited  the  earthy  or  had  fallen  from  the 
heaven.?"     To  this  the  admiral  replied,  that  they 
were  Christians,  and  came  from  far  to  see  them,  be- 
ing sent  by  the  sun,  to  which  he  pointed.     ^'  After 
this  introduction,  the  Indian/'  continues  Alarchon 
in  his  account  of  the  voyage,  '   began  again  to  ask 
me  liow  the  sun  liad  sent  me,  seeing  he  went  aloft 
in  the  sky  and  never  stod  still,  and  for  these  many 
years  neither  they  nor  their  oldest  men  had  ever 
seen  such  as  we  were,  and  the  sun  till  that  hour 


*  Ramusio,  vol.  iii.  [).  'M]\, 


AL ARCH ON, 


U 


men  wore 
.  feathers, 
eforo  and 

tion  from 
mortifica- 
;erpreter  ; 
that  they 
imated  to 
from  tliat 
'  says  lie, 
nd  show- 
'."  Soon 
^'ho  could 
lid  an  ill- 
lok  place, 
'  Indians 

iinprin- 
ge  is  un- 
e  Indian 
ero,  and 
f  the  \va- 
from  tlie 
lat  they 
lem,  be- 

"  After 
Vlarchon 
n  to  ask 
ent  aloft 
se  many 
lad  ever 
lat  hour 


had  never  sent  any  other.     I  answered  him,  it  was 
true  the  sun  pursued  his  course  aloft  in  the  sky, 
and  never  stood  still,  hut  nevertheless  they  might 
perceive  that  at  his  setting  and  rising  he  came  near 
the  earth,  where  his  dwelling  was,  and  that  they 
always  saw  him  come  out  of  one  place ;   and  he  had 
rn'ated  me  in  that  land  whence  he  came,  in  the  same 
way  that  he  had  made  many  others  whom  he  sent 
into  other  parts;  and  now  he  had  desired  me  to  visit 
this  same  riv(!r,  and  the  people  who  dwelt  near  it, 
that  I  might  speak  with  them,   and  become  their 
friend,  and  give  them  such  things  as  tiiey  needed, 
and  charge  them  not  to  make  war  against  eacli 
other.   On  this  he  rec^uired  me  to  tell  them  the  cause 
why  the  sun  had  not  sent  me  sooner  to  pacify  the 
wars  wliicli  had  continued  a  long  time  among  them, 
and  wherein  many  had  been  slain.     I  told  him  the 
r(;ason  was,  that  I  was  then  but  a  child.     He  next 
inquired  why  we  brought  only  one  interpreter  with 
us  who  comprehended  our  language,  and  wherefore 
we  understood  not  all  other  men,  seeing  we  were 
children  of  the  sun  ?  To  which  our  interpreter  an- 
swered, that  the  sun  had  also  begotten  him,  and 
given  him  a  language  to  understand  him,  his  master 
the  admiral,  and  others ;  the  sun  knew  well  that 
they  dwelt  there,  but  because  that  great  liglit  had 
many  other  businesses,  and  because  his  master  was 
Imt  young,  he  sent  him  no  sooner.     The  Indian  in- 
terpreter," continues  Alarchon,   "  then  turning  to 
me,  said  suddenly,  '  Comest  thou,  therefore,  to  be 
our  lord,  and  that  we  should  serve  thee?'  To  which 
I  answered,  I  came  not  to  be  their  lord,  but  rather 
their  l)rother,  and  to  give  them  such  things  as  I 
had.     He  then  inquired  whether  I  was  the  sun's 


78 


ALARCHOX. 


kinsman,  or  his  child?  To  which  I  replied  I  was 
his  son,  but  tiiose  who  were  with  me,  though  all 
born  in  one  country,  were  not  his  children ;  upon 
which  he  raised  his  voice  loudly  and  said,  '  Seein^r 
thou  doest  us  so  much  good,  and  dost  not  wish  us 
to  make  war,  and  art  the  child  of  the  sun,  we  will 
all  receive  thee  for  our  lord,  and  always  serve  thee  ; 
therefore  we  pray  thee  not  to  depart  hence  and 
leave  us.  After  which  he  suddenly  turned  to  the 
people,  and  began  to  tell  them  that  I  was  the  child 
of  the  sun,  and  therefore  they  should  all  choose  me 
for  their  lord."*  The  Indians  appeared  to  be  well 
pleased  with  this  proposal,  and  assisted  the  Spaniards 
in  their  ascent  of  the  river  to  the  distance  of  eighty- 
five  leagues;  but  finding  it  impossible  to  open  a 
communication  with  the  army  under  Coronado,  Alar- 
chon  put  about  his  ships,  and  returned  to  Mexico.f 
After  the  expeditions  of  Coronado  and  Alarchon, 
in  1542,  the  spirit  of  enterprise  amongst  the  Spaniards 
experienced  some  check,  owing  probably  to  the  feel- 
ing of  mortification  and  disappointment  which  ac- 
companied the  return  of  these  officers.  Yet  Mendoza, 
unwilling  wholly  to  renounce  the  high  hopes  he  had 
entertained,  despatched  a  small  squadron  under  Ro- 
driguez Cabrillo,  which  traced  the  yet  undiscovered 
coast  of  North  America  some  degrees  beyond  Cape 
Mendocino;  and  in  1596  and  1602,  Sebastian  Vis- 
caino  extended  these  discoveries  along  the  coast  of 
New  Albion  to  a  river  w^hich  appears  to  have  been 
the  present  Columbia.  It  has  even  been  asserted 
by  some  authors,  that,  four  years  prior  to  the  voyage 
of  Viscaino,  Juan  de  Fu^a,  a  veteran  Spanish  pilot, 

•  Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  429.     Ramusio,  vol.  iii.  p.  1)56. 
-f-  Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  pp.  4UiJ,  439. 


DE  FUCA. 


70 


fl  I  was 

)ugli  all 
[ ;   upon 
^  Seeing 
wish  us 
we  will 
VQ;  thee ; 
nee  and 
i  to  the 
lie  child 
loose  me 
be  well 
paniards 
f  eighty- 
open  a 
lo,  Alar- 
llexico.t 
larchon, 
paniards 
the  feel- 
liich  ac- 
endoza, 
he  had 
ider  Ro- 
covered 
id  Cape 
an  Vis- 
coast  of 
ve  been 
asserted 
voyage 
\\\  pilot. 


conducted  a  ship  JK'yond  the  mouth  of  the  Colum- 
bia, and  doubling  Cap*'  Flattery,  enter 'd  the  Straits 
of  Georgia,  through  which  he  passed  till  iie  came  to 
Queen  Charlotte's  Sound.  De  Fuca  imagined,  not 
unnaturally  considering  the  imperfc  ct  and  limited 
state  of  geographical  knowledge,  that  he  had  now 
sailed  through  the  famous  and  fabulous  Strait  of 
Anian ;  and  that,  instead  of  being  in  the  Pacific  as 
ii(!  then  actually  was,  he  had  conducted  his  vessel 
into  the  spacious  expanse  of  the  Atlantic.  With 
this  information  he  returned  to  Acapulco ;  but  the 
Spanisii  viceroy  received  him  coldly,  and  withheld 
all  encouragement  or  reward, — a  circumstance  to 
which  we  may  perhaps  ascribe  the  cessation  from 
this  period  of  all  farther  attempts  at  discovery  by 
this  nation  upon  the  north-west  coast  of  America. 
The  whole  voyage  of  De  Fu9a,  however,  rests  on 
apocryphal  authority. 


56. 


m 


BKIIRING  AM)  TCIIIUIKOW. 


ClIAPTKll  n. 


Russian  and  EnijUsh  Voyages. 

H('lirin<^'- — Tc-liirikow — Cook  and  Clorko  —  iMeares — Vancouver — 

Kot/ebue. 

As  tlie  zeal  of  tlie  Spanish  government  in  extending 
their  discoveries  upon  tlie  nortli-west  coast  of  Ame- 
rica abated,  anotlier  great  nation,  liitherto  scarcely 
known  to  Europe,  undertook  at  a  later  period  the 
task  which  they  liad  abandoned.  Russia,  within  lit- 
tle more  than  half  a  century,  had  grown  up  from  a 
collection  of  savage,  undisciplined,  and  unconnected 
tribes,  into  a  mighty  people.  Her  conquests  had 
spread  with  amazing  rapidity  till  they  embraced  the 
whole  of  the  north  of  Asia,  and  mider  the  energetic 
administration  of  Peter  the  Great,  this  empire  assum- 
ed at  once  that  commanding  influence  in  the  scale  of 
European  nations  which  it  has  continued  to  preserve 
till  the  present  times.  Amongst  the  many  great 
projects  of  this  remarkable  man,  the  solution  of  the 
question,  whether  Asia,  on  the  north-east,  was  unit- 
ed with  America,  occupied  a  prominent  place,  and  it 
appears  that  during  his  residence  in  Holland  in  1717.- 
he  had  been  solicited  by  some  of  the  most  eminent 
patrons  of  discovery  amongst  the  Dutch  to  institute 
aji  expedition  to  investigate  the  subject.  The  reso- 
lution he  then  formed  to  set  this  great  point  at  rest 


PETKR  THE  GREAT. 


81 


ancoiivor — 

xtending 
of  Ame- 
scarcely 
iriod  the 
itliin  lit- 
p  from  a 
onnected 
ests  had 
raced  the 
energetic 
e  assum- 
e  scale  of 
preserve 
ny  great 
m  of  the 
as  unit- 
es and  it 

in  1717. 
eminent 
institute 
he  reso- 
t  at  rest 


hv  a  voyage  of  discovery,  was  never  al)an(loiied  ;  but 
his  occupation  in  war,  and  tlie  multiplicity  of  those 
state-affairs  which  (Miurossed  his  attention,  caused 
him  to  delay  its  execution  from  year  to  year,  till  he 
was  seized  with  his  last  illness.  Upon  his  death- 
bed he  wrote,  with  his  own  hand,  instructions  to 
Admiral  Apraxin,  and  an  order  to  have  them  car- 
ried into  immediate  execution.  They  directed,  first, 
that  one  or  two  l)oats  with  decks  should  be  built  at 
Kamtschatka,  or  at  any  other  convenient  place; 
secondly,  that  with  these  a  survey  should  be  made 
of  the  most  northerly  coasts  of  his  Asiatic  empire, 
to  determine  whether  they  were  or  were  not  conti- 
guous to  America  ;  and,  thirdly,  that  the  persons 
to  whom  the  expediti(ni  was  intrusted  should  en- 
deavour to  ascertain  whether  on  these  coasts  there 
was  any  port  belonging  to  Europeans,  and  keep  a 
strict  look-out  for  *a.ny  Eur()|)ean  ship,  taking  care 
also  to  employ  some  skilful  men  in  making  in- 
quiries regarding  the  name  and  situation  of  the 
coasts  which  they  discovered, — of  all  which  they 
were  to  keep  an  exact  journal,  and  transmit  it  to  St 
Petersburg. 

Upon  the  death  of  Peter  the  Great,  which  happen- 
ed shortly  after  these  instructions  were  drawn  up, 
the  Empress  Catherine  entered  fully  into  his  views, 
and  gave  orders  to  fit  out  an  expedition  for  their  ?tc- 
complishment.  The  command  was  intrusted  to  Cap- 
tain Vitus  Behring.  Under  his  orders  were  two  lieu- 
tenants, ]\Iartin  Spangberg  and  Alexei  Tchirikow; 
and,  besides  other  subaltern  officers,  they  engaged 
several  excellent  ship-carpenters.  On  the  5th  of  Fe- 
bruary 1725,  they  set  out  from  St  Peters Imrg,  and 
on  the  Kith  March  arrived  at  Tobolsk,  the  capital 

E 


82 


BEIIIIINGS  FIRST  VOYAGE. 


of  Sil>oria.  After  a  surv(>v  of  the  rivers  Irtiscli,  Ol), 
Kct,  Jciicsei,  Tun<,nisf'a,  and  Ilini,  they  wintered  at 
liini,  and,  in  the  sj)rin(rof  172(5,  proceeded  down  tlic 
river  J^ena  to  JaJaitzk.  The  naval  stores  and  |)art 
of  llie  provisions  were  now  intrusted  to  Lieutenant 
Spani^her*:,  who  enil)arked  on  the  Judunia,  intend- 
iuL^  to  sail  from  it  into  the  IMaia,  and  then  bv  th* 
Aldan  into  the  Lena.  He  was  followed  by  Captain 
Beliriiifj,  who  proceeded  by  land  with  another  part 
of  the  stores,  whilst  Lieutenant  Tehirikow  staid 
at  Jakutzk,  with  the  design  of  transport in^r  the  re- 
niaiiuh'r  overland.  The  cause  of  this  complicated 
division  of  labour  was  the  impassable  nature  of  the 
country  between  Jakutzk  and  Ochotzk,  which  is  im- 
j;racticable  for  waggons  in  summer,  or  for  sledg(s 
during  winter.  Such,  indeed,  were  the  difficulties 
of  transjiorting  these  large  bales  of  provisions,  that 
it  was  the  3()th  July  1727  before  the  whole  busi- 
ness was  completed.  In  the  mean  time  a  vessel  had 
been  built  at  Ochotzk,  in  which  the  naval  stores 
v>'ere  conveyed  to  Boischeretzkoi  in  Kamtschatka. 
From  this  they  proceeded  to  Nischnei  Kamtschat- 
koi  Ostrog,  where  a  boat  was  built  similar  to  the 
packet-boats  used  in  the  Baltic.  After  the  necessary 
articles  were  shipped.  Captain  Behring,  determin- 
ing no  longer  to  delay  the  most  important  part 
of  his  enterprise,  set  sail  from  the  mouth  of  the 
river  Kamtschatka  on  the  14th  of  July,  steering 
north-east,  and  for  the  first  time  laying  down  a  sur- 
vey of  this  remote  and  desolate  coast.  When  thev 
readied  the  latitude  of  64°  80',  eight  men  of  the 
wild  tribe  of  the  Tschuktschi  pushed  off"  from  the 
coast  in  a  leathern  canoe,  called  a  baidar,  formed  of 
seal-bkins,  and   fearlessly  approached   the  Russian 


BEIIRINCiS  FIRST  VOYAGK. 


a*', 


tlscli,  Oh, 
intcTcd  at 
down  tlic 
J  and  part 
iicutcnaiit 
a,  intcnd- 
icn  bv  the 
»y  Captain 
otluT  })art 
kow  staid 
r]<f  tlie  rc- 
)niplicat('(l 
urc  of  tilt' 
Iiich  is  ini- 
Ibr  sledges 
dilTicultios 
iions,  that 
hoU'  busi- 
vessel  had 
ival  stores 
ntschatka. 
anitschat- 
lar  to  the 
necessary 
determin- 
L'tant  part 
th  of  the 
steering 
>wn  a  siir- 
^^lien  thev 
en  of  tlio 
from  the 
formed  of 
e  Russian 


ship.  A  eoinmunieation  was  immediately  opened 
by  means  of  a  Korial  interpreter;  and,  on  I)eing  in- 
vited, thev  <'ame  on  board  without  liesitation.  Hv 
tl)('St'  natives  Behrinij  was  informed  tliat  tlie  eoast 
turned  towards  the  west.  On  reaehin<f  the  j)ro- 
mont(>ry  called  Serdze  Kamen,  the  aeeuraey  of  this 
information  was  established,  for  the  land  was  seen 
extendin<,f  a  great  way  in  a  western  din'ction, — a 
eireumstanee  from  which  Behring  somewhat  too 
hastilv  concluded,  that  he  had  reached  the  extrem- 
cut  northern  |)oint  of  Asia.  He  was  of  opinion  that 
thence  the  coast  must  run  to  the  west,  and  there- 
fore no  junction  with  America  could  take  j)lace.  Sa- 
tislied  that  he  had  now  fulfilled  his  orders,  he  re- 
turned to  the  river  Kamtschatka,  and  again  took 
up  his  winter-quarters  at  Nischnei  Kamtschatkoi 
Ostrog.* 

In  this  voyage  it  was  conjectured  by  Behring  and 
his  ollicers,  from  the  reports  of  the  Kamtschadales, 
that  in  all  probability  another  country  must  be  si- 
tuated towards  the  east,  at  no  great  distance  from 
Serdze  Ka  nen  ;  yet  no  immediate  steps  were  taken 
either  to  complete  the  survey  of  the  most  northerly 
coasts  of  Ochozkoi,  or  to  explore  the  undiscovered 
region   immediately  opposite  the  promontory.     In 
the  course  of  a  campaign,  however,  against  the  fierce 
and  independent  nation  of  the  Tschuktschi,  Cap- 
tain Pawluizki  penetrated   oy  the  rivers  Nboina, 
Bela,  and  Tcherna,  to  the  borders  of  the  Frozen 
Sea;  and,  after  defeating  the  enemy  in  three  bat- 
tles, passed  in  triumph  to  a  promontory  supposed  to 
be  the  Tgchukotzkoi  Noss.    From  this  point  he  sent 

•  Harris'  Collection  of  Voyajres,  vol.  iL  pp.  1020,  1021;  Coxe's 
Russian  Discoveries,  pp.  23,  24,  ii4. 


84 


PAWLUTZKI  S  KXPKDITIOX. 


part  of  his  littN'  army  in  canoes,  wliilst  lie  himself 
coiKlucted  the  remaiiiiiiij  division  hy  land  round  tlie 
promontory,  takinj,M'are  to  march  alonif  the  s<'acoast, 
and  to  communicate  every  evening  witli  his  canoes. 
In  tliis  manner  Pawlutzivi  reached  tlie  promont()r\' 
which  is  conjectured  to  have  ])een  the  fartliest  limit 
of  Behrinii's  voyage,  and  theiK'e  hy  an  inland  route 
returned,  on  21st  Octoher  17•^^^  to  Anadirsk,  hav- 
inor  advanced  an  important  ste|)  in  ascertaininff  the 
separation  hotween  America  and  the  remote  north- 
westerly coast  of  Asia. 

Althou^di  the  separation  of  the  two  continents  had 
been  thus  far  fixed,  a  wide  field  of  discovery  yet  re- 
mained unexplored;  and  in  17^1,  I3ehrinfj,  Spang- 
berg,  and  Tchirikow,  once  more  volunteered  their 
services  for  this  purpose.  These  offers  were  imme- 
diately accepted ; — the  captain  was  promoted  to  the 
rank  of  a  commander,  the  two  lieutenants  were  mad<' 
captains,  and  instructions  drawn  up  for  the  conduct  of 
the  expedition,  in  which  it  w as  directed  that  the  desti- 
nation of  the  voyages  should  be  eastward  to  the  con- 
tinent of  America,  and  southward  to  Japan,  whilst, 
at  the  same  time,  an  endeavour  was  to  be  made  for 
the  discovery  of  that  northern  passage  through  the 
Frozen  Sea  which  had  been  so  repeatedly  but  unsuc- 
cessfully attempted  by  other  European  nations.  The 
voyage  to  Japan,  under  the  vommand  of  Captain 
Spangberg  and  Lieutenant  Walton,  was  eminently 
successful ;  and  one  of  its  material  results  was  the 
<'orrection  of  a  geographical  error  of  considerable 
magnitude,  by  which  that  island  had  hitherto  been 
placed  under  the  same  meridian  as  Kamtschatka 
instead  of  11°  more  to  the  westward.     The  expedi- 


BKIIUIN(f  S  SK(()M)  VOYAGE. 


«5 


('  Inmsclf 
round  tlio 
'  Sf'acoast, 
is  canoes, 
onioiitorv 

• 

icst  limit 
ind  route 
rsk,  hav- 
iniiiff  the 
>te  north- 

lents  liad 
•y  y('t  re- 
T,  Spang. 
Tcd  their 
•e  inime- 
;ed  to  tlie 
ere  niad<' 
onduetof 
the  desti- 
)  the  con- 
1,  whilst, 
made  for 
ough  the 
it  unsuc- 
Dns.   The 

Captain 
minently 

was  the 
siderable 
^rto  been 
itschatka 
?  expedi- 


tion  of  nchrinj;,  no  less  important  and  satisfactory, 
was  destined  to  he  fatal  to  its  <'xeeilent  ('oininander : 
After  a  \vint<'r  spent  in  the  harbour  of  Awatseha,  or 
Petropalauska,  on  tiic  west  side  of  the  ^reat  j)eninsula 
of  Kamtschatka,  IJrlirini,'  got  his  stores  on  board 
the  two  paeket-i»oats  built  at  Oehot/k,  expressly 
for  the  intended  American  discoveries.  Tlu  first  of 
these,  the  St  Peter,  was  tiiat  in  which  the  com- 
mander embarked  ;  the  second,  the  St  Paul,  was 
intrusted  to  Captain  Tcliirikow.  Along  with  Jieh- 
riiig  Went  Lewis  de  Lisle  de  la  Croyere,  Professor 
of  Astronomv,  whilst  Mv  (ieor<fe  William  Steller, 
an  experienced  chemist  and  botanist,  accompanied 
Tcliirikow. 

All  things  being  ready,  a  council  of  officers  was 
held,  ill  which  the  (juestioii  regarding  the  course  they 
should  steer  was  considered,  and  it  happened,  un- 
fortunately for  the  expedition,  that  an  important 
error  i.ad  crept  into  the  map  i)resented  by  the  Aca- 
demy of  Sciences  at  St  Petersburij  to  the  Senate, 
in  laviuii  down  a  coast  south-east  from  Awatseha, 
extending  fifteen  degrees  from  west  to  east,  whilst  no 
land  was  marked  due  east.  At  tiiis  spot  wen;  writ- 
ten on  the  map  the  words  "  Land  seen  by  Don  Jean 
de  Gama;"  and,  trusting  to  the  accuracy  of  this  in- 
formation, it  was  determined  to  steer  first  south-east 
by  east,  in  the  hope  of  discovering  this  continent ; 
after  which  they  might  follow  its  coasts  as  a  guide 
towards  tlie  north  and  east.  On  the  4th  of  June  1741, 
they  accordingly  weiglwd  anchor  and  steered  soiMu 
east  by  south,  till,  on  the  12th,  they  found  them- 
selves in  latitude  4(i^,  without  the  slightest  appear- 
ance of  the  coast  of  De  Gama.  Convinced  at  last  of 
their  error,  they  held  on  a  northerly  course  as  far  as 


..aJS 


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Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14583 

(716)  872-4503 


w. 


C/j 


80 


BKHRING  AND  TCIIIRIKOW 


50°  north  latitude,  find  were  just  about  to  steer  due 
east,  with  tlie  hope  of  reaeliing  the  cojUiueiit  of 
Ameriea,  when  tlie  two  sliips  were  separated  in  a 
violent  storm  accompanied  by  a  thick  fog.  Behring 
exerted  evt  rv  effort  to  rejoin  his  consort :  but  ?M 
proved  in  vain.  He  cruised  for  three  days  ])elween 
50°  and  5P  north  hititude,  after  which  he  steered 
baci<  to  tlie  south-east  as  far  as  45^;  but  Tchirikow, 
after  the  storm,  had  taken  an  easterly  course  from 
48''  nortii  latitude,  so  that  they  never  met  again. 

Both^  however,  pursued  their  discoveries  siniul- 
taneously,  and  on  the  ir)th  of  July,  being  in  56" 
north  latitude,  Tchirikow  reached  the  coast  of 
America,  The  shore  proved  to  be  stt.'ep  and  rocky, 
and,  in  consequence  of  the  high  surf,  he  did  not 
venture  to  approach  it,  but  anchoring  in  deep  water, 
despatched  his  mat^,  Demetiew,  with  the  long-boat 
and  ten  men  on  shore.  The  boat  was  provisioned 
for  some  days,  the  men  armed  aiid  furnished  with 
minute  instructions  as  to  their  mode  of  proceeding, 
and  the  signals  by  which  they  were  to  communi- 
cate with  the  ship.  But  neither  mate,  men,  nor 
barge,  were  ever  again  heard  of.  This  was  the  more 
mysterious,  as  all  at  first  appeared  to  go  well  with 
them.  The  barge  was  seen  from  the  ship  to  row 
into  a  bay  behind  a  small  cape,  and  the  appointed 
signals  were  made,  intimating  that  she  had  landed  in 
safety.  Day  after  day  the  signals  agreed  on  con- 
tinued from  the  shore.  The  people  on  board  be- 
gan at  last  to  think  that  the  barge  had  probably 
received  damage  in  landing,  and  coidd  not  return 
till  she  was  repaired,  and  it  was  resolved  to  send 
the  small  boat  on  shore,  with  the  boatswain  Sawe- 
jow  and  six  men.     Amongst  these  were  some  car- 


•? 


THEIR  SKCONl)  VOYAGE. 


87 


[)  steer  due 
Jitiueikt  of 
I  rated  in  a 
.  EehriiifT 
t;  but  all 
^s  ])et\veen 
he  steered 
IVliirikovv^ 
[)urse  from 
t  again. 
ries  sinuil- 
!ing  in  l)& 
i  coast  of 
\\\ii  rocky, 
le  did  not 
eep  water, 
'  long-boat 
rovisioned 
shed  with 
roceeding, 
communi- 
men,  nor 
;  the  more 
well  with 
ip  to  row 
appointed 
[  landed  m 
d  on  con- 
board  be- 
[  probably 
lot  return 
?d  to  send 
ain  Sawe- 
some  car- 


pi'nters  and  a  careeiier,  well  armed  and  provided 
witii  the  necessary  materials,  and  the  boatswain  had 
orders  to  return  with  Demetiew  in  the  lonjf-boat 
the  moment  the  necessary  repairs  were  completed. 
But  neither  mate  nor  boatswain  (^cr  came  back  ; 
and  the  most  dark  surmises  of  their  fate  were  excit- 
ed hy  the  cessation  of  the  signals,  and  the  continual 
ascent  of  a  large  volume  of  smoke  from  the  land- 
ing place.  Next  day,  however,  a  revival  of  liope  was 
felt  at  the  sight  of  two  boats  which  were  observed 
rowing  from  the  land  towards  the  ship.  It  was  be- 
lieved to  be  Demetiew  and  Sawelow  ;  and  Tchiri- 
kow  ordered  all  hands  on  deck,  to  ])repare  for  set- 
ting sail  on  a  moment's  warning.  A  few  minutes 
changed  these  cheerful  anticipations  into  sorrow;  for, 
as  the  boats  approached,  it  was  discovered  that  tliey 
were  filled  by  American  savages,  who,  seeing  many 
persons  on  deck,  instantly  shipped  their  paddies  and 
remained  at  a  cautious  distance.  'J'hev  then  stood 
Uj),  and  crying  witii  a  loud  voice  ''  Agai,  agai !"  re- 
turned with  great  speed  to  the  shore.  A  strong 
west  wind  now  rose  and  threatened  to  dash  the 
vessel  on  the  rocky  coast,  so  that  they  were  obliged 
to  weigh  anchor  and  put  to  sea  without  the  slightest 
hope  of  hearing  any  farther  intelligence  of  their  men  ; 
for  they  had  no  more  small  boats,  and  all  commu- 
nication with  the  shore  was  cut  off.  Tdiirikow,  how- 
ever, cruised  some  days  in  the  neighbourhood,  and 
when  the  weather  became  milder,  returned  towards 
the  spot  where  his  people  landed ;  but  all  ap])eared 
silent,  lonely,  and  uninhabited:  and  in  a  council  of 
the  officers,  it  was  determined  to  set  out  on  their  re- 
turn, though  with  the  most  poignant  regret  at  being 
obliged  to  leave  this  remote  and  desolate  coast  with- 


m 


BKILRING  AN'i  TCIIIIUKOW 


out  hearing  the  slij^htcst  account  of  tlicir  companions. 
They  arrived  at  Kauitscliatka  on  the  27tli  of  July.* 
No  nc\\s  of"  the  late  of  Dcmclicw  and  Sawclow  ever 
reached  Hussia  ;  but  it  is  evident  that  they  liad  ])een 
successively  attacked  and  murdered  hy  the  sava^^es. 
''  The  natives  of  this  part  of  the  north-west  coast 
of  AuKrica,"  says  Captain  Journey,  "  live  |)rinci- 
pally  by  huntin^f  and  catchin«j  game,  in  which  oc- 
cupations they  are  in  the  continual  practice  of  every 
species  of  decoy.  They  imitate  the  whistlinj^s  of 
birds, — they  have  carved  wooden  masks  resembling 
the  heads  ofanimals,  which  they  put  on  over  theirowii 
and  enter  the  woo<ls  in  mascjuerade.  They  had  ob- 
served the  signals  made  to  the  ship  by  the  Russian 
l)oat  which  lirst  canu'  to  land;  and  the  continuance 
of  signals  afterwards  seen  and  heard  by  the  Russians 
on  board  were  doubtless  American  imitations. "+ 

Exactly  three  days  after  Tchirikow  descried 
land,  it  appears  that  Commodore  Behring  also  got 
sight  of  the  continent  in  58°  28",  or,  according  to 
another  account,  00  north  latitude.  The  prospect 
was  magnificent  and  awful,  exhibiting  high  moun- 
tains covered  from  the  sunmiits  with  snow.  One 
of  these,  far  inland,  was  particularly  remarked :  It 
was  plaiidy  discernible  sixteen  German  miles  out 
at  sea;  and  Steller  says  in  his  journal,  that  in  all 
Siberia  he  had  not  met  with  a  more  lofty  moun- 
tain.:|:  The  commodore,  being  much  in  want  of  wa- 
ter, approached  the  coast  with  the  hope  of  being  able 
to  land.  lie  accordingly  reached  the  shore  on  the 
i20th  July,  and  anchored  under  a  large  island  not 

•  Miillor,  Docouvortps  f'aites  par  les  Russcs,  vol.  i.  |).  254. 

•f-  Buinov's  History  of  Norili-easterii    Voyages  ot"  Discovery, 
I).  1»(). 

*  Ihid.  p.  u;4. 


TIIKIIl  SKCONI)  V()YA(;K. 


«9 


nnpamons. 
liot'July.* 
vclow  <'vt'r 
y  Imd  ])oen 

west  coast 
ve  princi- 
wliich  oc- 
•e  of  every 
istliii<;s  of 
'('sejiil)liiig 
rthcirown 
ey  had  ob- 
le  lUissian 
mtiiiuance 
L'  Russians 
iojis."+ 
[  descried 
g  also  got 
L'ording  to 
L'  prospect 
gli  inoun- 
i)w.  One 
arked :  It 
miles  out 
Iiat  in  all 
ly  mouji- 
nt  of  wa- 
jeing  able 
re  on  the 
land  not 

.  2")4. 

Di.scoverv, 


far  from  the  continent.  A  point  of  land  projecting 
int(>  the  sea  at  this  |)!ace  tiiey  called  St  Elias  ('Hi)e, 
as  it  was  discoven'd  on  that  saint's  day  ;  whilst  an- 
otl'.cr  headland  was  denominated  St  Ilcrnioifenes: 
and  between  these  lay  a  bay,  in  which,  if  it  became 
necessary  to  take  shelter,  thev  trusted   thev  would 

•  •  • 

find  security.  Two  boats  were  now  launched,  in 
the  first  of  which,  Kytrof,  the  master  of  the  licet, 
was  sent  to  examine  the  bay,  whilst  Steller  proceed- 
ed with   the  other  to  fetch  water.     Kytrof  fouiid  a 

« 

cx)nvenient  anchorage;  and  on  an  adjacent  island 
were  a  few  empty  huts  formed  of  smooth  boards,  or- 
namented in  some  places  with  rude  carving.  \\'ith- 
in  thr  huts  IIk'V  |)icke(l  up  a  small  box  of  po])lar,  a 
hollow  earthen  ball  in  which  a  stone  rattled,  conjec- 
tured to  be  a  child's  toy,  and  a  whetstone  on  which 
it  appeared  that  copju'r  knives  had  been  shar])ened.* 
Steller,  on  the  other  hand,  near  the  spot  where  he 
landed,  discovered  a  cellar  in  which  was  a  store  of 
red  salmon,  and  a  sweet  herb  dressed  for  food  in  the 
sanu'  manner  as  in  Kamtscliatka.  Near  them  were 
rojH's,  "lid  various  pieces  of  liousehold  furniture  and 
of  domestic  utensils.  At  a  short  distance  he  came 
to  a  place  where  the  savages  had  recently  dined, — 
beside  which  they  found  an  arrow,  and  an  instru- 
ment for  j)rocuring  lire  exactly  similar  to  that  used 
for  the  same  purpose  in  Kamtschatka.  The  sailors 
who  fetched  the  fresh  water  liad  found  two  fire-places 
with  the  aylies  newly  extinguished,  and  near  them 
a  parcel  of  hewn  wood,  with  some  smoked  fishes  like 
large  car]).  They  observed  also  marks  of  human 
footsteps  in  the  grass,  but  no  natives  were  seen.     In 


Coxe'.s  Kiisisiaii  iJiscuveries,  pp.  42,  4;{. 


90 


I?H1IKIN(;   AM)  K  HIHIKO^' 


case,  however,  they  should  return,  some  small  [wv- 
seiits,  such  as  it  was  conjectured  mi<(ht  l»e  suited  to 
their  taste  or  their  wants,  were  left  in  the  huts. 
Those  consisted  of  a  j)iece  of  ^n'een  <,dazed  linen,  two 
iron  kettles,  two  knives,  two  iron  Chinese  tobacco- 
pipes,  a  pound  of  tobacco  leaves,  and  twenty  lar^^e 
ijlass  beads.  Steller,  an  enthusiastic  naturalist,  en- 
treated that  he  mij^dit  have*  tiie  command  of  the  small 
l)Oat  and  a  few  men,  to  conipU  te  a  more  accurate  sur- 
vey of  tliis  new  coast;  but  Behring,  who  was  from 
his  advanced  age  rather  timid  and  over-cautious,  put 
H  decided  negative  upon  th<'proj)osal ;  and  liis  scien- 
tific companion,  liaving  climbed  a  steep  rock  to  ob- 
tain a  vie\v'  of  the  adjacent  country,  found  his  |)n)- 
gress  interrupted  by  an  immediate  order  to  come 
aboard.  "  On  descending  the  mountain,"  says  he  in 
liis  journal,  *'  whicli  was  overs|)read  with  a  forest 
witliout  any  traces  of  a  road,  finding  it  impassabh',  l 
reascended,  looked  mournfullv  at  the  limits  of  mv 
progress,  turned  my  eyes  towards  the  continent 
which  it  was  not  in  my  power  to  explore,  and  ob- 
served at  the  distance  of  a  few  versts  some  sniok< 
ascending  from  a  wooded  eminence.  *  *  v 
Again  receiving  a  positive  order  to  join  the  ship,  J 
returned  with  my  collection."* 

Having  put  to  sea  next  day,  the  21st  of  July,  tliey 
found  it  impossible,  according  to  their  original  inten- 
tion, to  explore  the  coast  as  far  as  65°  north  latitude, 
as  it  seemed  to  extend  indefinitely  to  the  south-west. 
It  was  studded  with  many  small  islands,  the  navi- 
gation through  which,  especially  during  the  night, 
was  dangerous  and  tedious.     On  tlie  30th  of  July, 


Coxe's  Russian  Discoveries,  pj).  40,  41. 


TIIKIIl  SKCONJ)  VOVAfJE. 


1)1 


small  |)r» '- 
('  suited  to 

tlu'  luits. 

linen,  tNVo 
se  toluuro- 
•enty  lar^M' 
iralist,  cii- 
li'tlu' small 
ciirati'  sur- 
)  was  from 
iitious,  put 
I  his  scicii- 
rock  to  ol)- 
iid  his  |)ri)- 
T  to  conie 
'  savs  he  in 

ft; 

th  a  forest 
j{)assal)le,  1 
nits  of  mv 

ft 

eoutineni 
re,  and  oh- 

ome  smok« 

*       *       ** 

the  ship,  I 

July,  tliey 
jinal  inten- 
th  latitude, 
^outh-west. 
,  the  navi- 
\  the  night, 
h  of  Julv. 


they  discovered,  in  latitude  .')()",  an  island  which  they 
called  Tumannoi  Ostrog,  or  Fo^'gy  Island  ;  and  soon 
after  the  scurvy  l>roke  out  with  the  most  virulent 
symj)tonis  in  the  shij)'s  crew;  so  that,  in  hopes  of  pn»- 
curin<(  water,  they  ai^ain  ran  to  the  north,  and  soon 
discovered  the  continent,  with  a  lar<rejfroup  of  islands 
near  the  shore,  hetween  which  they  came  to  an- 
chor. These  they  called  the  Schumagins,  after  tlie 
name  of  one  of  their  men  who  died  there,  ^\'hilst 
at  this  anchorai^e  the  weather  hecamt?  boisterous, 
and  some  hrackish  water  procured  from  one  of  the 
largefjt  islands  increased  the  virulence  of  the  dis- 
ease, which  prevailed  to  an  alarming  degree.  All 
attempts  to  put  to  sea  j)roved  for  some  days  lui- 
successful,  owing  to  the  strong  contrary  winds ; 
and  at  length  one  morning  they  were  rouse<l  by 
a  loud  cry  from  one  of  the  islands,  upon  which 
they  saw  a  fire  burning.  Soon  after,  two  Americans 
rowed  towards  the  ship  in  tln'ir  canoes,  which  in 
shape  resembled  those  of  Greenland  and  Davis' 
Strait.  They  stopj)ed,  however,  at  some  distance, 
and  it  was  discovered  that  they  not  only  understoixl 
the  language  of  the  Calumet,  or  Pipe  of  Peace,  em- 
ployed by  tlu'  North  American  Indians,  but  ha<l 
these  symbolical  instruments  along  with  th<,'m.  They 
were  sticks  with  hawks'  wings  attached  to  one  end. 
It  was  at  first  impossible  to  induce  the  natives  to 
<'ome  on  board ;  and  Behring,  anxious  to  establish  a 
communication,  and  to  become  ac(]uainted  with  th<* 
country,  despatched  Lieutenant  Waxel  in  the  lx)at 
with  nine  men  well  armed,  amongst  whom  was  a 
Tschuktschian  or  Koriak  interpreter.  It  was  found, 
however,  that  the  savages  were  utterly  ignorant  of 
his  language ;  and  Waxel  having  sent  some  men  on 


92 


in: II KING  AND  TCllIUIKOW 


sliorc,  wlio  fastened  the  hoat  by  a  lonij  rope  passed 
round  a  roek  on  the  heach,  coninieiu'ed  a  friend- 
ly intereourse  by  means  of  siyns.  Tlie  Anierieans 
were  disposed  to  be  on  tile  most  amicabh'  terms 
with  their  new  acquaintances,  ^nvinj;  them  whales' 
llesh,  the  only  provisiofi  they  ap})"are(l  to  possess; 
and  at  last  one  of  them  so  far  overcame  his  fears  as 
to  join  the  Kussian  lieutenant  in  the  boat,  which 
still  lay  a  little  way  from  the  shore.  Anxious  to  con- 
ciliate his  favour  and  treat  him  with  distinction, 
Waxel  somewhat  thou^ditlessly  presented  him  with 
a  cup  of  brandy  ;  but  the  effect  j)roved  the  reverse  of 
what  was  expected.  He  made  the  most  ludicrous 
wry  faces,  spit  violently  out  of  his  mouth  all  that  he 
Jiad  not  swallowed,  and  cried  aloud  to  his  compa- 
nions on  the  shore,  complaining  of  the  treatment  he 
had  experienced.  "  Our  men,"  says  ]\Ir  Steller  in 
iiis  journal,  ^'  thought  the  Americans  had  sailors' 
stomachs,  and  endeavoured  to  remove  his  disgust  by 
])resenting  him  with  a  lighted  pipe  of  tobacco,  which 
he  accepted ;  but  he  was  equally  disgusted  with  his 
attempt  to  smoke.  The  most  civilized  European 
would  be  affected  in  the  same  manner  if  presented 
with  toad-stool,  or  rotten  fish  and  willow  l>ark, 
which  are  delicacies  with  the  Kamtschadales.'  It 
was  'ivident  he  had  never  tasted  ardent  spirits  or 
smoked  tobacco  till  this  moment ;  and  although  every 
effort  was  made  to  sooth  him  and  restore  his  con- 
fidence, by  offering  him  needles,  glass  beads,  an 
iron  kettle,  and  other  gifts,  lie  wjuld  accept  of  no- 
thing, and  made  the  most  eager  and  imploring  signs 
to  be  set  on  shore.  In  this  it  was  judged  right  to 
gratify  him,  and  Waxel,  at  the  same  time,  called 
out  t'    the  sailors  who  were  on  the  beach  to  come 


Til  KIR  SKCONI)  V()VA(;E. 


1)3 


)})('  |)ass<'(l 
a  IViciid- 
VimTicans 
.1)1('  terms 
111  wliak's' 
0  possess ; 
lis  fears  as 
jat,  wliieh 
)iis  to  con- 
iisliiictioii, 
liiin  witli 

*  reverse  of 
.  ludierous 
all  tliat  he 
lis  eoiiipa- 
'atiiient  he 

•  Steller  in 
ad  sailors' 
disgust  by 
eeo,  which 
d  with  his 
European 

|)resented 
ow  bark, 
ales."  It 
spirits  or 
)ugli  every 
L'  his  con- 
beads,  an 
ept  of  no- 
)riiig  signs 
d  right  to 
niCj  called 
1  to  come 


back  ;  the  Americans  made  a  violent  attempt  tode- 
tain  tlicm,  but  two  blunderbusses  were  lircd  over 
thei.  heads,  ami  had  the  effect  of  making  tlicm  fall 
flat  on  the  liround,  whilst  the  Russians  escaped  and 
rejoined  their  companions. 

This  adventure  gave  them  an  oj)portunity  (jf  ex- 
amininu  this  new  people,  now  for  the  first  time 
visited  by  Europeans.  "  The  islanders,  were  of 
moderate  stature,  but  tolerably  well  proportioned; 
their  arms  and  legs  very  fleshy.  Their  hair  was 
straight  iind  of  a  glossy  blackness;  their  faces  brown 
and  flat,  but  neither  broad  nor  large;  their  <'yes  wen; 
black,  aiul  their  lij)s  thick  and  turned  upwards; 
their  necks  were  slutrt,  their  shoulders  broad,  and 
their  bodies  thick  but  not  corpulent.  Their  upper  (Gar- 
ment was  made  of  whales'  intestines,  their  breeches 
of  seals'  skins,  and  their  caps  formed  out  of  the  hide 
of  sea-lions,  adorned  with  feathers  of  various  birds, 
especially  the  hawk.  Their  nostrils  were  stopped 
with,  grass,  and  their  noses  as  flat  as  CJalmucks';  their 
faces  painted,  some  with  red,  others  with  different 
colours  ;  and  some  of  them,  instead  of  caps,  wore 
hats  of  bark,  coloured  green  and  red,  open  at  the 
top,  and  shaped  like  candle-screen.^-,  apparently  tor 
protecting  the  eyes  against  the  rays  of  the  sun. 
These  hats,  might  lead  us  to  suppose  that  the  na- 
tives of  this  part  of  America  are  of  Asiatic  descent ; 
for  the  Kamtschadalesand  Koriaks  wear  the  like,  of 
which  sevcal  specimens  may  be  seen  in  the  ^AIu- 
seuni  at  St  Petersburg."* 

At  this  time  Behring  being  confined  by  severe 
sickness,  the  chief  command  fell  on  Waxel,  who  was 

•  Coxe's  Russian  DLicovcries,  p.  iVi. 


\)i 


nKIIRIN'^;  AM)  TriflRIKOW: 


prcparinjj  to  sail,  \vlirii  scvm  Americans  cami'  in 
tlu'ir  boats  to  the  ship's  side,  and  two  of  tlicni  catch- 
in^f  hold  of  thccntrancr-hKhhr,  prcsmtcd  their  Inm- 
nets  and  a  carved  iina:.'e  of  hone,  hearini:  some  re- 
semhlance  to  a  human  fiuure.  They  lilxewise  liehl 
up  ihe  cahnnet,  and  would  have  come  ahoard,  hut 
the  sailors  were  taking  up  the  anchor,  and  the  hr<'<'ze 
treshenin<s  tliev  \v<'re  under  the  necessity  of  makinj^ 
towards  the  shore  as  (juickly  as  possible.  There  was 
time,  how<'ver,  to  jfive  a  few  presents,  and  as  tiieship 
passed  by  the  point  w.Jere  tln'V  stood,  she  was  sa- 
luted with  loud  and  friendly  .■r.'iouts. ' 

They  had  now  to  struL'ijh'  a<fainst  a  tedious  con- 
tinuance of  westerly  wind,  accomj)anied  with  thick 
fo^s,  which  rendered  the  navijjjation  in  these  un- 
known seas  perilous  in  the  extnrne.  On  the  24th 
of  Se|)tember  the  mist  cleare>l  away,  and  disclosed 
a  hi«,d)  and  desolate  coast,  vyhich  a  stront:  south  wind 
ma(U'  it  dani^erous  to  approach.  The  majority  of 
the  crew  were  by  tliis  time  disabled  by  the  scurvy, 
and  the  rest  so  weak,  that  to  mana<{e  the  vessel 
during  tlie  tempestuous  weather  was  almost  impos- 
sible. A  violent  gale  soon  after  be«ran  to  blow  from 
the  west,  which  gradually  increased,  and  drove  the 
ship  far  to  the  south-east.  Tlie  storm  continued  for 
seventeen  days, — a  fact  to  which  there  are  few  paral- 
lels iu  the  history  of  shipwrecks;  and  the  pilot, 
Andrew  Ilesselberg,  who  had  served  for  fifty  years 
in  several  parts  of  the  world,  declared  he  had  never 
witnessed  so  long  and  terrible  a  gale.  oMeanwhile 
they  carried  as  little  sail  as  )<o.ssible,  and  were  driven 
for  a  fortnight  at  the  mercy  of  the  wind,  under  a  sky 

*  Buriey's  North-eastern  Voj-aj^  of  Discovery,  p.  IJO. 


TIIKin  SKCONI)  V()VA(}E. 


Oj 


s  came  111 
nil  catch- 
tlu'ir  Ik)!!- 
t  sonic  rc- 
Avisc  lirld 
loard,  l»iit 
the  l)n'«'Z(' 
of  niakin«4 
Then'  Nvas 
as  tli('slii|) 
It'  was  sa- 

lious  coii- 

svitli  thick 

these   un- 

tlte  21th 

I  disclosed 

oiitii  wind 

lajority  of 

le  scurvy, 

he  vessel 

ost  inipos- 

)l()\v  from 

drove  the 

tinned  for 

few  paral- 

the  pilot;, 

fifty  years 

had  never 

leaiiwhile 

ere  driven 

ider  a  sky 

p.  170. 


as  Mack  as  midnight,  so  tiiat  all  the  time  they  saw 
neither  sun  n(»r  stars.  When  the  storm  ahated,  they 
found  themselves,  hy  the  ship's  reckoning,  in  4H  IH" 
nortii  latitude.  Steller,  in  his  journal,  draws  a  strik- 
ing picture  of  their  extreme  inis<'ry  : — "  The  j^rcncral 
•  iistress  and  mortality,"  says  he,  "  increased  so  fast, 
tiiat  not  only  the  sick  died,  hut  those  who  still  stru^,'- 
Lfled  to  he  iiumhered  on  the  healthy  list,  when  re- 
lieved from  their  posts,  fainted  and  fell  tlowii  dead, 
of  which  the  scantiness  of  water,  the  want  of  bis- 
cuits ami  liranoy,  cold,  wet,  nakedness,  vermin,  fear 
and  terror,  were  not  the  least  causes."  '  In  these  cir- 
cumstances it  became  dilVicult  to  determine  whether 
they  should  return  to  Kamtschatkaor  seek  a  harbour 
on  the  nearest  American  coast.  At  last,  in  a  council 
of  olHcers,  they  embraced  the  first  of  these  alterna- 
(ives,  and  a^ain  sailed  north,  after  wdiich  they  steered 
towards  tin*  west. 

On  the  2!) til  of  October  they  approached  two 
islands  resembliiii;  the  two  first  of  the  Kurilian 
i^rouj).  The  lon^r-wished-for  coast  of  Kamtschatka, 
however,  did  not  appear,  and  the  condition  of  the 
vessel  and  crew  bewail  to  be  deplorable.  The  men, 
notwithstanding  their  diseased  state  and  want  of 
proj)er  food,  were  obliged  to  work  in  the  cold;  and 
as  the  continual  rains  had  now  changed  into  hail  and 
snow,  and  the  nights  shortened  and  grew  darker, 
their  sufferings  were  extreme.  The  commodore  him- 
self had  been  for  some  time  totally  disabled  by  dis- 
ease from  taking  an  active  command,  his  wonted  en- 
ergy and  strength  of  mind  left  him,  and  he  became 
childishly  suspicious  and  indolent.  Amongst  the 
seamen  the  sickness  was  so  dreadful,  that  the  two 


*  Co.\i''.s  Uiissian  Discoveries,  p.  JJo. 


flfl 


I<KIIitIN(;  AM)  TriNHIKOW  : 


sailors  wliosc  Ix-rtli  used  to  ln'sit  the  rudder,  were  hd 
to  it  l)y  others,  who  thmisrlves  coiihl  walk  with 
difl'iciiit y.  \V'h(ii  one  could  steer  no  longer,  another 
('j|ually  I'eehle  was  supported  to  his  place.  Many 
sails  they  durst  not  hoist,  because  no  one  was  stronc 
enough  to  low<'rthein  in  case  of  need,  whilst  some  of 
the  sheets  were  so  thin  and  rotten,  that  a  violent  wind 
would  have  torn  them  to  pieces.  The  rest  of  this  in- 
tcn'stinj:  hut  deeply  alTectinu  xoya^e  may  he  ^iven  in 
the  excellent  abstract  of  Captain  IJurney.  "On  No- 
venih(r4th,  ateight  in  the  inorni)i^f,  they  once  more 
saw  huid  ;  hut  only  tlie  t  >ps  of  the  mountains  at  first 
appeared, and  the  shore  was  so  distant,  that,  althouifh 
they  stood  towards  it  the  whole  day,  ni^jht  came  on 
before  tlu'y  could  ^et  near  enouirh  to  look  for  anchor- 
age. At  noon  that  day  they  made  their  Iatitu(l<'  !)y 
ol)servation  to  be  it()°  north.  On  the  mornin^^  of  the 
r)tli,  it  was  discovered  that  almost  all  the  shrouds  on 
the  starboard  side  of  tlie  ship  were  broki'n,  which  hap- 
pened from  contraction  and  tenseness  caused  by  the 
frost ;  for,  without  other  mention  made  of  the  wea- 
ther, it  is  complained  that  the  cold  was  insupport- 
able. In  this  distress  the  commodore  ordered  the 
lieutenant  to  call  all  the  officers  to^r(>ther,  to  consult 
on  their  best  mode  of  proc<'edinjnr ;  and  the  increased 
numbers  of  the  sick,  with  tlie  want  of  fresh  water, 
determined  them  at  all  hazards  to  s<'ek  relief  at  this 
land.  The  wind  was  northerly,  and  they  had  sound- 
ings at  tlie  depth  of  thirty-seven  fathoms,  with  a 
sandy  bottom.  They  now  steered  in  towards  the 
land,  west-south-west  and  south-west,  and  tw(> 
liours  after,  at  five  in  the  evening,  they  anchored 
in  twelve  fathoms,  the  bottom  sand,  and  veered  out 
three  quarters  of  a  cable.   The  sea  now  began  to  run 

7 


* 


TIIKIU  bKCUM)  VOVA(iK. 


J>7 


r,  wrn'  U'(\ 
Aiilk  with 
r,  aiiotlicr 
•('.     Mafiv 

ft' 

was  st  nmt; 
1st  some  ol" 
olciit  wind 
:  of  this  ill- 
he  j^Mveii  ill 
•'On  No. 
once  more 
liiisat  first 
t,aIthoii^fh 
lit  came  on 
tor  anclior- 
latitude  hy 
niii^f  of  th<' 
shrouds  on 
which  hap- 
is<'d  hv  the 
f  the  wea- 
iiisiipport- 
nh'red  tlie 
to  consult 
incn'ased 
•esli  water, 
lief  at  this 
ad  sound- 
iis,  witli  a 
jwards  the 
and    two 
f  ancliored 
veered  out 
'gan  to  run 


hiuh.  and  at  six  the  cahh*  yave  way.  Aiiotiu  r 
anclior  was  h't  ^'o,  yet  the  ship  struck  twice,  ihoiiyh 
thev  found,  hv  the  lead,  Ihc  fathoms  (h'pth  of  wati-r. 

ft  '        •  ■ 

Tlie  cahh-  ()uicUly  parted  ;  and  it  was  fortunate  a 
third  ainhor  was  not  n-ady,  for  whilst  they  were 
pnparinif  it  a  high  wave  threw  the  ship  over  a  hank 
of  HM-ks,  where  all  at  once  she  was  in  still  water. 
They  !i()w  dropt  their  anchor  in  four  fathoms  and  a 
half,  ahout  i'AH)  yards  from  the  land,  and  lay  (juiet 
<lurin^f  the  rest  of  the  ni<,dit  ;  hut  in  the  niorninii 
they  found  themselves  surrounded  with  rocks  and 
breakers.   They  were  certain  that  the  coast  of  Kami- 
schalka  was  not  far  distant ;  hut  tin*  condition  of 
the  ship  and  the  crew,  with  the  advanced  season  of 
the  year,  rendered  it  apparent  that  they  must  re- 
main upon  this  land  al!  winter.     Those  who  were 
able  to  work  went  on  shore  to  prepare  lodgings  for 
the  sick.     This  they  accomplished  hy  digging  pits  or 
caverns  between  some  sandhills  near  a  brook  which 
ran  from  a  mountain  to  the  sea,  using  their  sails  as 
a  temporary  covering.     There  was  Jio  a])pearj  n-e  of 
inhabitants ;  nor  were  any  trees  seen,  although  drift- 
wood was  found  along  the  shore.     No  grass  nor  an- 
tiscorbutic herbs  were  discoverable;  the  island,  in- 
deed, was  so  deeply  covered  with  snow,  that  even  if 
it  produced  any  antiseptic  plants,  the  patients  had 
not  strength  to  lay  them  open ;    and  at  this  time 
the  Russians  were  little  acquainted  with  the  proper 
remedies  for  this  dreadful  disease.     On  the  8th  of 
November  they  began  to  transport  the  sick  to  the 
miserable  habitations  which  had  been  prepared  for 
them  ;  and  it  was  remarkable  that  some  who  seem- 
ed the  least  reduced,  expired  the  moment  they  were 

F 


1)8 


liKiiinNfj  AM)  TfiriinKow: 


exposed  to  the  fresh  air,  and  others  in  making  an 
attempt  to  stand  upon  deck. '' 

On  the  J)tli  of  November,  Belirinfj  liimHf  was 
<'arrie(l  ashore  bv  four  men  on  a  hand-barrow,  care, 
fully  secured  from  the  air.  The  ship  liad  been  cast 
on  the  east  side  of  the  island,  and  the  eoast  was 
examined  both  to  the  north  and  south ;  but  no  traces 
of  inhal)itants  were  found.  Along  the  shores  were 
many  sea-otters,  and  the  interior  swarmed  with  blue 
and  white  foxes.  ''  We  saw,"  says  Steller  in  his  jour- 
nal, ''  the  most  dismal  and  terrifying  objects :  the 
foxes  manjrled  the  dead  before  thev  could  l)e  buried, 
juid  were  even  not  afraid  to  approach  the  living  and 
helpless  who  lay  scattered  here  and  there,  and  smell 
to  them  like  dogs.  This  man  exclaimed  that  he  was 
perishing  of  cold  ;  the  other  complained  of  hunger 
and  thirst ;  and  their  mouths  were  so  much  affected 
by  scurvy,  that  their  gums  grew  over  their  teetli 
like  a  sponge.  T!ie  stone-foxes,  which  swarmed 
round  our  dwellings,  ])ecame  so  bold  and  mischie- 
vous, that  they  carried  away  and  destroyed  differ- 
ent articles  of  [)r()vision  and  clothing.  One  took  a 
shoe,  another  a  boot,  a  third  a  glove,  a  fourth  a 
coat ;  and  tliey  even  scole  the  iron  implements ; 
whilst  all  attempts  to  drive  them  away  were  ineffec- 
tual."t 


*  "  It  nuist,'"  says  Captain  Biirnev,  "  iu'  witliin  the  memory  ot 
many,  the  ^roat  care  witli  wliiili  tlio  aiKirtinents  of  the  sick  weiv 
guarded  af:;aiiist  the  adniissioii  (tf  fresh  air,  and  in  few  instance.'- 
more  thaa  in  what  «as  called  the  sick-ltertli  on  hoard  a  ship  ot 
war,  where  it  was  custoniary  to  keep  a  numher  of  diseased  [)erson> 
lahonrinp;  under  different  nuUadies  enclosed  and  crowchnl  tofrether: 
and  fortunately,  since  the  date  of  tliis  ex[)edition,  the  nianag-ement 
of  the  sick  with  respect  to  air  has  under^vone  a  very  essential  reform.  * 

•\  ('oxe's  Hussian  Discoveries,  pp.  /li,  74. 


TIIEIH  SECOND  VOYAGE. 


99 


making  an 

lHm""lf  was 
arrow,  care, 
id  been  casl 
B  coast  was 
but  no  traces 
shores  were 
?d  witli  blue 
r  in  liis  jour- 
objects  :  tile 
d  be  buried, 
e  living  and 
e,  and  smell 
[  tliat  he  was 
d  of  liunger 
luch  affected 

their  teetii 
li  swarmed 
nd  miscliie- 
oyed  differ- 
On  e  took  a 

a  fourth  a 
mplements : 
vere  ineffec- 


tho  memory  nt 
f  the  sick  w(mv 
1  tow  instances 

)()ar(l  a  ship  of 
isi>a.se(l  persons 
rtded  tojretlier: 
le  manaj^ement 
sential  reform. 


Lieutenant  Waxei,  on  wliom,  since  the  iihiess  of 
tlie  commodore,  the  command  devolved,  and  Ky. 
trow,  the  ship-master,  continued  healthy  at  sea  ; 
and  the  necessity  for  exertion,  in  seeing  every  thinjr 
sent  on  shore,  had  a  favourable  effect  in  re])ell- 
ing  the  attacks  of  the  disease.  At  last,  however, 
they  too  were  laid  up,  and  soon  lu'came  so  weak, 
that,  on  the  21st  of  November,  they  were  carried 
ashore  like  the  rest.  During  this  dreadful  residence 
on  the  island,  the  men  lived  chiefly  on  the  flesh 
of  th<'  sea-otters,  which  was  so  hard  and  tough 
that  it  could  scarcely  be  torn  to  pieces  by  the  teeth. 
The  intestines  w<'re  nn)stlv  used  for  the  sick  ;  and 
Steller,  in  his  descriptions  of  the  marine  ajii- 
mals  of  these  refjions,  reckons  the  flesh  of  the  sea- 
otter  as  a  specific  against  the  scurvy.  When  not 
wanted  for  food  tliey  were  killed  for  their  line 
skins,  900  being  collected  on  the  island,  and  <'(pial- 
ly  divided  among  the  crew.  A  dead  whale,  which 
was  thrown  u|)on  the  coast,  they  called  their  maga- 
zine, as  it  proved  a  resource  when  nothing  better 
could  be  got.  The  flesh  was  cut  into  small  [)ieces, 
which  thi^y  boiled  a  long  time  to  separat<'  the  oil 
from  it  as  much  as  possible,  and  the  remaining 
hard   and    sinewy   parts    they  swallowed    without 


cliewing. 


In  this  miserable  manner  they  contiimed  to  sup- 
port life  ;  but  some  of  the  crew  sunk  daily  under  tlie 
disease,  and  on  the  \\\\\  of  December  th<'  commo- 
dore ex[)ired.  Behring  was  an  officer  of  extraordi- 
nary merit ;  and,  until  reduced  by  the  disease  of 
which  he  became  the  victim,  endowed  w^ith  unshaken 
pi'rseverance  and  energy.  His  voyage  set  at  rest  the 
disput(>d  point  regarding  the  separation  of  the  two 


100 


DEATH  OF  BEIIIUNG. 


continents  of  Asia  and  America ;  and  he  has  de. 
servedly  bequeatlied  his  name  to  the  strait  wliicli 
he  was  the  first  to  explore,  and  the  desohite  island 
on  which  he  died.  It  is  melancholy  to  think,  that 
after  the  exertions  he  had  made  in  the  cause  of  na- 
val discovery,  his  life  terminated  so  miserably ;  for 
it  may  ahnost  be  said  that  he  was  buried  alive :  The 
sand  roUed  down  continually  from  the  side  of  the 
cavern  in  which  he  lay,  and  at  last  covered  his 
feet;  nor  would  he  suffer  it  to  be  removed,  saying, 
he  felt  warmth  from  it,  when  he  was  cold  in  all 
other  parts;  it  thus  gradually  increased  upon  him 
till  his  body  was  more  than  half  concealed ;  so  that, 
when  he  at  last  expired,  it  was  found  necessary  to 
unearth  him  previously  to  his  being  interred.  "  Beh- 
ring,"  says  Steller,  who  was  by  no  means  disposed  tu 
exaggerate  the  good  qualities  of  his  commander,  "dis- 
played in  his  illness  the  most  affecting  resignation  to 
the  will  of  the  Supreme  Being,  and  enjoyed  his  un- 
derstanding and  speech  to  the  last.  He  was  con- 
vinced that  the  crew  had  been  driven  on  an  un- 
known land  ;  yet  he  would  not  terrify  others  by  de- 
claring his  opinion,  but  cherished  their  hopes  and 
encouraged  their  exertions.  He  was  buried  accord- 
ing to  the  Protestant  ritual,  and  a  cross  was  erected 
over  his  grave  to  mark  the  spot,  and  to  serve  also  as 
an  evidence  that  the  Russians  had  taken  possession 
of  the  country."* 

Soon  after  the  death  of  the  commodore  the  whole 
crew  were  sheltered  from  the  severity  of  the  winter 
in  subterranean  dwellings  contiguous  to  each  other, 
and  recovered  so  much  strength  by  the  use  of  sweet 


Coxe's  Uassian  Discoveries,  p.  79* 


STATE  OF  THE   EXPEDITION. 


101 


he  has  de- 
trait  whieli 
)hite  island 
tliiiik,  that 
ause  of  na- 
erably ;  for 
alive :  The 
side  of  the 
covered  his 
ved,  saying, 
cold  in  all 
1  upon  him 
'd ;  so  that, 
necessary  to 
red.  "Beh. 
5  disposed  to 
ander,  '^dis- 
signation  to 
yed  his  un- 
[e  was  con- 
on  an  un- 
hers  by  de- 
hopes  and 
ried  accord- 
was  erected 
erve  also  as 
1  possession 

e  the  whole 
the  winter 
each  other, 

ise  of  sweet 


and  excellent  water,  and  the  flesh  of  the  sea-animals 
killed  in  huntin<r,  that  their  existence  became  com- 
paratively comfortable.  Of  the  manner  in  which 
they  passed  their  time  durin^^  the  dreary  winter 
months,  from  December  to  iMay,  Steller  has  left 
us  in  his  journal  a  minute  and  interesting  account. 
In  JMarch  the  sea-otters  disappeared,  either  from 
the  instinct  of  changing  their  abode  at  particular 
seasons  of  the  year,  or  banished  by  continual  perse- 
<'Ution ;  but  their  place  was  supplied  by  other  ma- 
rine animals,  which,  in  their  turn,  also  left  them. 
"  To  supply  ourselves  with  fuel,"  says  Steller, ''  was 
likewise  a  considerable  labour :  As  the  island  pro- 
duced nothing  but  willow-bushes,  and  the  drift- 
wood was  often  deeply  buried  in  the  snow  till  the 
end  of  IMarch,  we  were  compelled  to  bring  it  from 
a  distance  of  even  fifteen  or  sixteen  versts  ;  and  our 
load  upon  these  expeditions  amounted  to  from  sixty 
to  eighty  pounds,  besides  our  hatchets  and  kettles, 
with  the  necessary  implements  for  mending  our 
shoes  and  clothes.  In  April,  however,  we  were  re- 
lieved from  this  labour  by  the  thaw  and  breaking 
up  of  the  vessel."  An  anecdote  of  an  escape  made 
by  them  in  hunting,  as  it  is  given  by  the  same 
lively  writer,  presents  us  with  a  striking  picture  of 
their  manne»-  of  life  upon  the  island.  "  On  the  fith 
of  April,"  says  he,  "  during  a  gleam  of  favourable 
weather,  Steneserand  myself,  with  my  Cossack  and 
a  servant  of  Behring,  went  on  a  hunting  expedi- 
tion. Having  killed  as  many  sea-otters  as  we  were 
able  to  carry,  we  made  a  fire  in  a  cliflf,  where  we 
propos(>d  to  pass  the  night.  At  midnight  a  violent 
luirricane  arose,  and  the  snow  fell  in  such  quantities 
that  we  should  have  been  buried  had  we  not  run 


102 


TIIKY    m'lIJ)  A   SVAV  VESSKL. 


coiitiiiuaUv  backwards  and  forwards.  In  tlit'  morn, 
ing,  afti'r  a  l()n<r  and  rruitlcss  scarc^h  for  shelter,  we 
resigned  ourselves  to  our  fate;  but  the  Cossack  for- 
tunately discovered  a  large  cavern,  which  seemed 
to  have  been  formed  by  an  eartlujuake,  where  we 
entered  with  our  provision  and  wood.  It  aiforded 
a  secure  retreat  from  the  weather,  contained  a  ca- 
vity in  which  we  could  hide  our  provisions  from  the 
depredations  of  the  stone-foxes,  and  was  provid- 
ed with  ail  aperture  which  served  the  purpose  of  a 
chimney.  The  cave  and  bay,  which  were  named  in 
comj)liment  to  me,  were  iidiabited  by  numerous 
foxes,  which  retired  on  our  approach  through  the 
chimney  ;  but  the  smoke  from  our  fire  caused  such 
a  spitting  and  sneezing  amongst  them,  as  gave  no 
small  diversion  to  the  party.  At  night,  however, 
they  occasionally  returned  into  the  cavern,  and 
amused  themselves  with  taking  away  our  caps,  and 
playing  other  similar  gambols.  On  the  4tli  we  re- 
turned to  our  abode  with  a  rich  booty,  and  were 
received  with  great  delight  by  our  companions,  who 
thought  us  lost."* 

On  the  ()th  of  JMav,  such  of  the  crew  as  were 
able  to  work  began  to  build  from  the  relics  of  the 
wreck  a  vessel,  which  was  intended  to  carry  the 
survivors  to  Kamtschatka.  Their  number  was  now 
reduced  to  forty-five,  thirty  having  died  on  the 
island,  including  the  three  carpenters ;  but  a  Si- 
berian Cossack  named  Starodubzow,  who  had  for 
some  time  worked  as  a  shipwright  at  Ochotzk,  su- 
perintended the  building  of  the  new  ship.  At  first 
they  were  put  to  great  inconvenience  from  a  defi- 

*  We  have  aviiilod  ourselves  of  Coxe's  translation  of  this  j)as- 
sage,  as  published  in  his  Russian  Discoveries,  pp.  Utt,  &\. 


KKTUIIN  TO   KAMTS(  HATHA. 


\(r,\ 


n  the  morn. 

shelter,  we 
Uossack  for- 
lieli  seemed 
',  where  we 

It  aflbrdetl 
allied  a  ca- 
ns from  the 
^as  provid- 
urpose  of  a 
e  named  in 
'  numerous 
hrough  the 
•aused  such 

as  gave  no 
t,  liowever, 
avern,  and 
ir  caps,  and 
4tli  we  re- 
,  and  were 
mions,  who 

w  as  were 
elics  of  the 
)  carry  tlie 
sr  was  now 
ied  on  the 
but  a  Si- 
lio  liad  for 
ihotzk,  su- 
).  At  first 
rom  a  defi- 


ci»'ncy  of  tar  ;  hut  by  an  in^t-nious  contrivance  it 
was  extracted  from  tlie  new  conhige  whlcli  they  liad 
to  spare.  After  being  cut  and  picked,  tliey  put  it 
into  a  large  copp<'r  kettle,  liaving  a  cover  litting 
close,  with  a  hole  in  the  middle.  Thev  then  took 
another  vessel  with  a  similar  cover,  which  they 
fixed  firm  in  the  ground,  and  upon  this  set  the 
copper  kettle  turned  upside  down,  the  apertures  in 
the  lids  being  placed  exactly  against  each  other. 
Part  of  this  machinery  was  then  buried  in  the  earth, 
and  a  fire  kindled  round  what  was  above  ground, 
by  which  means  the  tar  of  the  new  cordage  melted, 
and  ran  into  the  inferior  vessel.  This  contrivance 
Jiaving  removed  their  greatest  difliculty,  hy  the  lOth 
of  August  the  nc  w  vessel  was  launched,  and  on  the 
HJth,  Lieutenant  Waxel  set  sail  with  the  melancholy 
remnant  of  his  crew  ;  but,  owing  to  contrary  winds, 
they  did  not  make  the  coast  of  Kamtschatku  till  the 
2.ith,  although  from  J5ehring's  Island  the  d.jtance 
was  not  more  than  thirty  German  mil<?s.  On  the 
27th  they  anchored  in  Awatchka  Bay ;  and  the  Cos- 
sack, Starodubzow,  to  whose  efforts  in  constructing 
the  vessel,  the  preservation  of  the  crew  was  mainly 
owing,  received  the  rank  of  sinbojarski,  a  degree  of 
Sil)erian  nobility.  Such  is  an  account  of  the  cele- 
brated and  unfortunate  expedition  of  C'onunodore 
J3ehring,  of  wiiich  the  results  were  highly  important 
to  geographical  science,  although  d(!arly  bought  by 
the  death  of  so  many  brave  men. 

Although  Lord  IMulgrave  had  failed  in  his  at- 
tempt to  discover,  by  a  northerly  course,  a  communi- 
cation between  the  Pacific  and  Atlantic  Oceans,"' 


1  of  this  j)as- 


Polar  Seas  and  Regions,  lid  edit.  p.  \\2~i — W'Sb. 


104 


COOK  AND  CLEHKE  S  VOYAGE. 


till'  British  ^'ovcriimcnt  did  not  abandon  all  liopo; 
and  in  177^^  Captain  James  Cook,  who  had  al- 
n.'ady  established  his  reputation  as  tlu;  greatest  ot 
modern  navigators,  was  selecte  1  by  the  Admiraltv 
to  oonduet  another  expedition,  reversing  only  tli( 
plan,  and  endeavouring  to  sail  from  the  Pacific  into 
the  Atlantic,  instead  of  from  the  Atlantic  into  th< 
Pacific. 

In  prosecution  of  this  j)lan,  on  the  12th  of  July 
177<>j  Cook  sailed  from  Plymouth  Sound  in  tht 
Resolution,  leaving  instructions  for  the  Discoverv. 
the  command  of  which  was  intrusted  to  Captain 
('harles  Clerke,  to  join  him  at  the  Cape.  From  that 
place  the  two  ships  i)r()C('eded,  in  a  course  marked 
by  important  discoveries,  through  the  Southern  He- 
misphere, by  Van  Diemen's  Land,  New  Zealand, 
Otaheite  and  the  Sandwich  Islands.  They  then 
steered  north-eastward,  and  on  tlie  7th  of  IMarch, 
in  latitude  44^1^  north,  came  in  sight  of  the  Ameri- 
can continent  at  the  coast  of  New  Albion.  Owing 
to  unfavourable  winds,  which  forced  the  ships  to 
the  south,  it  was  the  29th  before  Cook  anchored  in 
Nootka  Sound,  where  he  was  soon  visited  oy  thirty 
l)oats  of  the  natives,  carrying  each  from  three  to 
seven  or  eight  persons,  both  men  and  women.  At 
first  none  of  the  Americans  would  venture  within 
either  ship,  and  from  the  circumstance  of  their 
boats  remaining  at  a  short  distance  all  night,  as  it 
on  watch,  it  was  evident  they  regarded  the  arrival 
•of  the  strangers  with  much  suspicion.  A  friendly 
intercourse,  however,  was  soon  established ;  and 
although  theft,  particularly  of  any  iron  utensil, 
was  unscrupulously  committed,  they  were  pretty  fair 
and  honest  in  their  mode  of  barter.     ''  They  were," 


K. 


INTKRCOrnSK  WITH  THE  NATIVES. 


lO.") 


on  all  liopo; 
A'ho  liad  al. 
L'  greatest  ot 
e  Ad  111  i  rait  Y 

• 

iiig  only  th( 
'  Pacific  into 
iitic  into  th( 

12th  of  July 

ound  in  the 

Q  Diseoverv. 

[  to  Captain 

From  that 

urse  marked 

louthern  He- 

L'W  Zealand, 

Thev  then 

h  of  March. 

the  Ameri- 

on.     Owing 

the  ships  to 

anchored  in 

L'd  oy  thirty 

>m  three  to 

vomen.     At 

ture  within 

ce  of  their 

night,  as  it 

the  arrival 

A  friendly 

ished  ;  and 

■on   utensil, 

'  pretty  fair 

i'hey  w^ere/' 


says  Cook,  "docile,  courteous,  and  good-natured; 
hut  quick  in  resenting  what  they  looked  upon  as  an 
injury,  and,  like  most  other  passionate  people,  as 
soon  forgetting  it.  Their  stature  was  rather  below 
the  common  size  of  Europeans;  and  although  at 
first,  owing  to  the  paint  and  grease  which  covered 
their  skins,  it  was  believed  that  they  were  of  a  cop- 
per complexion,  it  was  afterwards  discovered  that 
they  were  in  reality  a  white  people.  They  were 
well  armed  with  pikes,  some  headed  with  bone  and 
many  with  iron  ;  besides  which  they  carried  bows, 
slings,  knives,  and  a  short  club-  like  the  patow  of 
the  New  Zealanders ;  tlu'ir  arrows  were  barbed 
at  the  point,  and  the  inner  end  feathered."  A  dis- 
pute occurred  after  the  arrival  of  the  English,  be- 
tween the  inhabitants  of  the  northern  and  southern 
coasts  of  the  sound ;  but  a  pacific  treaty  was  con- 
cluded, and  tlie  event  celebrated  by  a  species  of 
music,  in  which  they  bore  alternate  parts.  ''  Their 
songs,"  says  Captain  Burney,  who  was  himself  pre- 
sent, "  were  given  in  turn,  the  party  singing  having 
their  pikes  erected.  When  the  first  finished  they 
laid  down  their  pikes,  and  the  other  party  reared 
theirs.  What  they  sung  was  composed  of  few  notes, 
and  as  wild  as  could  have  been  expected ;  yet  it  was 
solemn  and  in  unison,  and  what  I  thought  most  ex- 
traordinary, they  were  all  well  in  tune  with  each 
other.  The  words  were  at  times  given  out  by  one 
man,  as  a  parish-clerk  gives  out  the  first  line  of  a 
psalm."* 

It  appeared  evident  to  Captain  Cook,  that  previ- 
ous to  this,  the  inhabitants  had  never  entertained 


*  Barney's  North-eastern  Voya^^es  of  Discovery,  p.  213. 


km; 


COOK   AT   NOOTKA   SOINI). 


any  direct  coniniuiiication  with  Kiiropcaiis.  ''  Tlicy 
were  not  startled,"  says  lie,  "  hy  the  re|)()rt  of  a 
musket,  till  one  day,  u\nm  endeavoiiriiiif  to  prove 
to  us  that  arrows  and  s|)ears  would  not  penetrate 
their  war-dresses,  a  <rentleman  of  our  company  shot 
a  musket- hall  throu^di  one  of  them  folded  six  times. 
At  this  they  were  so  much  stagtrered,  that  their 
ignorance  of  fire-arms  was  ])laiidy  seen.  This  was 
afterwards  confirmed  when  we  used  them  to  shoot 
birds,  the  manner  of  which  confounded  them."  On 
the  ships  leaving  Nootka  Sound,  th<'  natives  accom- 
panied their  farewell  with  a  singular  exhihition  : 
"  Wlien  the  anchor  was  heaving  up,"  says  ]5urney, 
"  they  assembled  in  their  boats,  which  covered  the 
cove,  and  began  a  song,  in  which  they  nourished  the 
swords,  saws,  hatchets,  and  other  things,  w  Inch  they 
had  obtained  from  us.  In  the  midst  of  this  valedic- 
tory chorus,  one  man,  mounted  on  a  stage  of  loose 
boards,  ^vhich  was  supi)orted  by  the  people  in  the 
nearest  canoes  or  boats,  danced  with  a  wooden  mask 
on,  which  he  occasionally  changed,  making  himself 
reseml)le  sometimes  a  man,  sometimes  a  bird,  and 
sometimes  an  animal.  Of  these  masks  they  have 
great  variety,  and  they  parted  with  them  willing- 
ly, except  those  of  the  human  face  ;  if  they  sold 
any  of  these,  it  seemed  to  be  with  some  repug- 
nance, as  if  they  w  ere  parting  with  the  image  of  a 
friend  or  a  relation,  and  were  ashamed  to  be  seen 
so  doing."* 

From  Nootka  Sound  Captain  Cook  made  a  survey 
of  tlie  coast  by  Mount  Saint  Elias,  till  he  arrived  at 
a  cape  which  turned  short  to  the  north,  to  which  he 

*  Burncy's  Noitli-easteni  Voyages  of  Discovery,  j)p.  217)  -l^'- 


i 


sruVKV  IKOM  NOOTKA  TO  NOKTON  SMI'NI).  lOJ 


s.  ''Thry 
cport  of  a 
L,^  to  prove 

pciu'tratc 
Jpaiiy  shot 
I  six  times, 
that  their 

This  was 
n  to  shoot 
em."  Oi) 
res  aeconi- 
xliihition  : 
s  ]iuriiey, 
t)vere(l  tlie 
rished  tlie 
^'hieli  they 
is  valedie- 
^e  of  loose 
ph'  in  the 
)deii  mask 
ig  liimself 
hird,  and 
tliey  liave 
1  wiiling- 
they  sold 
ne  repug- 
mage  of  a 
to  be  seen 

e  a  survey 

arrived  at 

whicli  lie 

).  217, 21H. 


Uave  the  iiameof  Ca|)e  lliiichiiroroke;  tiienee  he  pro- 
«'ee(h'(!  to  l*rinee  William's  Sound  ;  after  which  he 
pursued  the  coast  to  the  west,  which  was  found  to 
take  a  southerly  directi(ni,  as  descrihed  hy  IJehriug 
and  Tchirikow.    These  navigators,  however,  as  we 
have  seen,  liad  not  mach'  a  very  particular  exami- 
nation ;  and  although  the  tenor  of  C'ooU's  instruc- 
tions did   not   permit  him   to  devote  much   time  to 
th<'  exploring  rivers  or  iidets,   till  iu-  reached  the* 
latitude  of  (>')  ,   still   that  eminent  oHicer   deemed 
himself  at  liberty  to  com[)lete  an  accurate  survey 
of  this  hitherto  undiscovered  coast,  from  the  arm  of 
the  sea  afterwards  (h'nominated  (.'ook's  Inlet  round 
the  great  Peninsula  of  ^Vlaska,  terminating  in  Cape 
Oouiunak.     lie  thence  j)roceeded  along  the  shores 
of  Bristol    Bay,  till   he  doubled  Ca[)e  Newenhani, 
from  which  he  steered  in  a  north-easterly  direction 
and  anchored  in  Norton  Sound.     Leaving  this  the 
ships   entered   Behring's   Strait,   and  followed   the 
coast  to   the  north-west,    till  they  doubled  a  pro- 
montory situated  in  (i;V  4r>"  north  latitude,  which 
they  named  Prince  of  Wales'  Cape,   regarding  it 
as   the  western  extremity  of  all  America  hitherto 
known.     Soon  after,  in  the  evening  they  discerned 
the  coast  of  Asia,  and  standing  across  the  strait  came 
to  anchor  in  a  bay  of  the  Tschuktschi  country,  near  a 
village  from  which  the  natives  crowded  to  the  shore. 
Observing  this.  Cook  landed  with  three  boats  well 
armed,  and  was  received  by  the  Tschuktschi  with 
cautious  courtesy.  About  forty  men,  armed  each  with 
a  spontoon,  besides  bow  and  arrows,  stood  drawn  up 
on  a  rising  ground  close  by  the  village,  and  as  the 
English  drew  near,  three  of  them  came  down  to- 
wards the  shore,  politely  taking  off  their  caps  and 


I 


1(){J  COOK  (KOSSKS  HKIIUINfi's  STHAIT  TO  ASIA. 

makin^r  l()^v  Ik)\vs.     On  scciiKj  sonic  of  the  Kn^lish 
leap  from  their  boats  tlicy  retired,  and  expressed  by 
si^ns  their  desire  that   no  more  should  hind  ;   hut 
wlien  Cook  advanced  ah)nc,  with  some  small  pre- 
sents in   liis  liand,  their  conTKhiU'c  was  restored, 
and  they  exchau'^cd  for  them  two  fox-skins  and  two 
sealiorsc-teeth.     iVII  this  tim«'  thev  never  laid  down 
their  weapons,  hut  held  them  in  constant  readiness, 
except  for  a  short  time,  when  four  or  five  persons 
disarmed  tliemselves  to  t'ive  the  En},dish  a  son<;  and 
a  dance  ;  even  then,  however,  they  |)laced  them  in 
sucli  a  manner  that  they  could  reach  them  in  an 
instant,  and  evidently  for  greater  security  they  de- 
sired their  audience  to  sit  down  durinj,'  the  dance. 
Tliis  Asiatic  people,  although  dwelling;  within  fifty 
miles  of  the  American  coast,  were  evidently  a  dif- 
ferent race  from  the   inhabitants  of  the  shores  of 
Behring's   Strait.     All   the  Americans  whom   the 
English  had  seen  since  their  arrival  on   the  coast 
were  low  of  stature,  with  round  chubby  faces  and 
high  cheek-bones.     The  Tschuktschi,  on  the  con- 
trary, jiad  long  visages,  and  were  stout  and  well 
made.     Several  things  which  they  had  with  them, 
and  more  particularly  their  <  lothing,  showed  a  de- 
gree of  ingenuity  surpassing  what  one  could  ex- 
pect among  so  norther?)  a  people.     Their  dress  con- 
sisted of  a  cap,  frock,  breeches,  boots,  and  gloves, 
all  made  of  leather  or  skins  extremely  well  dressed, 
some  with  the  fur  on,   some  without  it,  and  the 
quivers  which  contained  their  arrows  were  made  of 
red  leatlier  neatly  embroidered,  and  extremely  beau- 
tiful.* 


Cook's  Voyaj^cs,  vol.  vi.  pp.  400,  410,  411. 


ASIA. 


Ill:  TIT  UN'S  TO  A.MKHICA. 


10'.) 


1'  En^^lish 
)n'ssi'(l  l)v 

• 

aiul  ;  hut 
iiiiall  \)rv. 
n'stort'cl, 
s  and  two 
laid  down 
readiness, 
e  persons 
,  son<(  and 
I  them  in 
em  in  an 
,'  they  de- 
the  danee. 
ithin  liftv 

• 

itiv  a  dif- 
sliores  of 
vliom   the 
the  coast 
faces  and 
tile  c'on- 
aiid  well 
itli  them, 
wed  a  de- 
eoiild  ex- 
[Iress  cou- 
ld gloves, 
1  dressed, 
and  the 
made  of 
ely  beau- 


e 


From  this  hay  the  ships  ajjain  stood  over  to  the 
north-*  ast,  and,  continuiiiir  their  examination  of  the 
American  coast,  C'ooU  soon  found  himself  surround- 
ed hy  Hw  dreary  features  which  mark  the  scenery 
of  the  Polar  latitudes;  a  dark  and  <,d()omy  sky, 
thick  showers  of  snow  and  hail,  and  immense  fields 
and  mountains  of  ice,  covered  in  some  places  hy  the 
huj:e  forms  of  the  walrus  or  seahorse,  which  lay  in 
herds  of  many  hundreds,  huddling  like  swine  one 
ov<'r  the  other.  The  llesli  of  these  animals,  when 
new  kilh'd,  was  preferred  hy  the  crew  to  their  com- 
mon fare  of  salt  meat,  hut  within  four  and  twenty 
hours  it  became  rancid  and  fishy.  From  a  point  of 
land,  which  was  denominated  Cape  INIulgrave,  they 
now  explored  the  coast  to  the  latitude  of  'JO^  29", 
where  their  progress  was  arrested  by  an  unbroken 
wall  of  ice  appanMitly  stretching  from  continent  to 
continent."'  At  this  time  the  nearest  land  was  about 
a  league  distant,  and  the  farthest  eastern  point  seen 
a  low  headland  much  encumbered  with  ice,  to  which 
Cook  gave  the  name  of  Icy  Cape,  and  which,  till 
the  recent  discoveries  of  Captain  Beechey,  constitut- 
ed the  extreme  limit  of  European  discovery  in  that 
quarter  of  the  globe.  It  was  now  the  end  of  August ; 
and  as  nothing  farther  could  be  attempted  at  that 
season  on  the  American  coast,  the  ships  return- 
ed to  the  Sanflwich  Islands,  with  the  intention  of 
resuming  in  the  succeeding  summer  the  attempt  for 
the  discovery  of  a  communication  between  the  Pa- 
cific and  the  Atlantic, — an  object  which  their  great 
commander  did  not  live  to  execute,  having  been 
killed  in  an  unfortunate  scuffle  with  the  natives  of 


*  Cook's  Voyag-os,  vol.  vi.  pp.  415,  417. 


11(1 


Ki/rrHN  OF  TiiK  i:\i»i:i)iTioN. 


Owliyhcc  oil  tln'  11  III  (»r  FchniJiry  177i^-  'I'x'  ^J^r- 
tlirr  ('oiiduct  of  the  expedition  now  Icil  to  ('lerkc 
and  Kinu,  and  an  attempt  was  niad<'  to  peiietralr 
l)eVond  lev  Cape;  l»iit  the  eoiltiiiiied  fields  ol*  m 
rendered  it  utterly  ahortive.  The  ships  then-rorc 
liaviiiLj  repassed  Jlehriii<f's  Strait,  came  to  anchor  in 
the  May  of  St  Peter  an<l  St  Paul  in  Kamtsehatka. 
Here  Captain  Clerke,  who  had  loiii;  heeii  in  a  de. 
eliniiiLi  state,  died  ;  ii|)on  which,  to  the  ^n'eat  satisfac- 
tion  of  the  crews  and  olVicers  of  both  ships,  who  w^tc 
sick  of  the  dnary  navi^^ation  in  these  inhos])ital)lt' 
latitudes,  they  returned  home. 

Sul)se(jU(  nt  to  th<'  voyaifes  of  Cook  and  ('lerke. 
the  north-west  coast  of  America  was  visited  at  dif- 
fenMit  periods  l>y  3Ieares,  \''ancouver,  an«i  Kot/ebue; 
and  thou<,di  th<'  limit  of  discovery  was  not  extend- 
ed heyond  Icy  Cape,  the  shores  were  mor<'  mimitcjv 
examined,  and  a  heneficial  commercial  intercourst 
established  with  the  natives.  Of  C'a{)tain  iNIeares 
voya^U's,  the  ^M'eat  object  was  to  establish  a  trade 
between  China  and  the  north-west  coast  of  Ame- 
rica. For  this  purpose  an  association  of  the  leadini: 
mercantile  men  in  I3ent(al  fitted  out  two  vessels, — 
the  Nootka,  commanded  by  lAIeares  himself,  and 
the  Sea-otter  by  Lieutenant  Walter  Tij)|)in^r.  TIk 
Sea-otter  in  the  first  instance  took  a  cargo  of  opium 
to  jMalacca,  thence  she  j)roceeded  to  America,  and  is 
known  to  have  made  Prince  William's  Sound  ;  bul 
after  leaving  that  harbour  no  accounts  of  her  wen 
ever  received,  and  it  a})pears  certain  that  she  and 
her  crew  perished  at  sea.  The  fate  of  Meares  in  tin- 
Nootka  w  as  scarcely  more  tolerable :  After  a  te- 
dious and  perilous  navigation  in  the  China  Seas. 
they  made  their  way  through  the  straits  between 


mi:ahi:s   kiii^t  ^  «)va»;k. 


Ill 


I.  The  far. 
I  to  Clerkc 
.()  |)('ii('tnili' 
liclds  of  ice 
|)s  Ihcrcfort' 
tu  anchor  in 
aiiitschatka. 
I'll  ill  a  (!«'- 
'cat  satisfac. 

)S,  who  WiTc 

inhospitahl*' 

ami   (Merkr. 

sited  at  (lif- 

il  Kotzchuc; 

not  cxtciid- 

)n'  iniiiiitt'lv 

intcrcoursf 

ain  iMcarcs 

ilisli  a  trade 

ist  of  Amc- 

tlic  Icadini: 

0  vessels, — 

liniself,  and 

pin^r.     The 

no  of  opiiiiii 

riea,  and  is 

Mnuid  ;  but 

of  her  were 

lat  she  and 

cares  in  thf 

After  a  te- 

Jhina  Seas. 

its  between 


Ooiiainak  and  Ooiialaska  ai^ainst  a  current  running 
seven  knots  an  hour,  from  which  they  sailed  across 
to  Anierii'a  bv  the  Sdminaiiin  Islands,  and  anchor- 

* 

e<l  under  Cape  Douglas. "  Thelice  tlu-y  proceech'd 
to  I'rince  W'iiliam's  SoumI  to  winter;  and  their 
residence  here  duriiiij  October,  November,  and  De- 
cember, ihouuli  »!"eary  and  tedious,  was  not  with- 
out its  com  forts.  The  natives  were  friendly,  and 
brouuhl  tlu'in  provisions;  they  caught  plenty  (jf  ex- 
cellent salmon,  and  the  lar^e  llocks  of  ducks  and 
jreese  alVorded  constant  sport  io  the  ollicers,  and  a 
seasonable  supply  for  the  table.  Hut  the  horrors  of 
an  Arctic  winter  beiian  soon  to  ^'ather  round  them  : 
The  ice  closed  in  Upon  the  ship  ;  the  snow  fell  so 
thick  that  all  exercis<'  became  impossible  ;  the  ducks 
and  ;jeese  collected  into  llocks  and  passed  away  to 
the  southward  ;  the  lish  totally  des<'rted  the  cre<'ks  ; 
and  the  natives,  a  migratory  race,  imitatiiii;  the 
instinct  of  these  lower  species,  travi'Mcd  ofT  in  a 
body  with  their  temporary  wiifwanis  to  a  more  ge- 
nial district.  To  add  to  these  distresses  the  scur- 
vy made  its  a|)j)earance  ;  whilst  the  sun  described 
weekly  a  smaller  circle,  and  shed  a  sickly  and  me- 
lancholy li<;ht.  Even  at  noon,  throu<,di  an  atmos- 
phere obscured  by  perpetual  snows,  "  tremendous 
mountains  forbade  almost  a  si^Ljht  of  the  sky,  and 
cast  their  nocturnal  shadows  over  the  ship  in  the 
midst  of  day."  The  decks  were  inca|)al)le  of  re- 
sisting the  intense  freezing  of  the  night,  and  the 
lower  j)art  of  them  was  covered  an  inch  thick  with 
a  hoar  frost  that  had  all  the  appearance  of  snow, 
notwitlistanding  fires  were  kept  constantly  burning 


*  .Mi-arr^'  N'.tvat^os,  Mil.  i.  |).  111.      liitnKliictory  V'i)yiii^c. 


112 


MEARES    FIRST  VOVAGE. 


twenty  iiours  out  of  the  twenty-four.  Between  the 
months  of  January  and  iMay,  twenty-three  meji 
died  of  the  seurvy,  and  the  rest  of  the  crew  were 
so  disabled  as  to  be  incapable  of  any  labour ;  but 
the  sun's  return  and  the  commencement  of  more 
genial  weather  produced  an  instantaneous  effect 
on  the  health  and  spirits  of  the  crew.  The  natives 
returned,  and  assured  the  poor  sufferers  that  the 
cold  must  soon  be  gon(s  making  them  understand  by 
signs  that  the  sunmier  would  commence  about  the 
middle  of  INlay ;  and  the  sun,  which  now  began  to 
make  a  larger  circle  over  the  hills,  not  only  chased 
away  the  huge  and  gloomy  shadows  that  like  a 
funeral-pall  had  covered  the  ship,  but  brought  back 
the  fish  to  the  rivers,  and  the  migratory  birds  to  the 
shore  ;  so  that  they  soon  enjoyed  an  ample  supply 
of  fresh  food.  On  the  1 7th  of  May,  a  general  break- 
ing up  of  the  ice  took  place  throughout  the  cove,  and 
the  feeling  that  they  were  once  more  in  clear  water, 
with  the  prospect  of  soon  leaving  a  scene  of  so  much 
distress  and  horror,  cheered  the  minds  of  the  crew 
with  inexpressible  comfort.'"'  These  happy  antici- 
pations were  soon  realized  by  their  sailing  from 
Prince  of  Wales'  Sound  on  the  21st  June,  and  reach- 
ing the  hospitable  cluster  of  the  Sandwich  Isles, 
where  such  was  the  effect  of  the  genial  climate,  that 
in  ten  days'  residence  every  complaint  had  disap- 
peared. On  the  2d  of  September  they  left  the  Sand- 
wich Islands,  and  arrived  on  the  20th  October  at 
Macao  in  China. 

It  may  easily  be  imagined,  tliat  during  so  disas- 
trous a  sojourn  on  tlie  Amcican  shore,  little  or  no 


*  Meares'  Voyages,  vol.  i.  Introductorv  Voyage^  p.  47. 


NATIVES  OF  PRINCE  WILLIAiM's  SOUND.       113 


tvveen  the 
liree  men 
crew  were 
bour;  Imt 
t  of  more 
ous  effect 
he  natives 
s  that  the 
LTstand  by 
about  the 
;  began  to 
Illy  cliased 
lat  like  a 
»uglit  back 
irds  to  the 
pie  supply 
i^ral  break- 
p  cove,  and 
ear  water, 
)f  so  much 

the  crew 
)py  antici- 

ing  from 
and  reach - 

ich  Isles^ 
mate,  that 

ad  disap- 

tlie  Sand- 
)ctober  at 

so  disas- 
ittle  or  no 

c^  [).  47- 


progress  could  be  made  in  the  survey  of  the  coast, 
whicii  was  rugged  ;  and  at  no  great  distance  were 
mountains,  covered  with  thick  woods  for  about 
two-thirds  of  their  ascent,  beyond  which  they  ter- 
minated in  immense  masses  of  naked  rock.  The 
blach-pine  grew  in  great  plenty,  and  a  few  black- 
currant bushes  were  noticed,  but  no  other  kind  of 
fruit  or  vegetable.  The  number  of  savages  seen  by 
Meares  did  not  exceed  500  or  fJOO,  and  these  had 
no  fixed  place  of  abode,  but  wandered  up  and  down 
as  fancy  or  necessity  impelled  them.  They  were 
strong  and  athletic,  rather  exceeding  the  common 
stature  of  Europeans,  with  prominent  cheek-bones, 
round  flat  fac(\s,  eyes  small  and  black,  and  hair, 
which  they  cut  short  round  the  head,  of  the  same 
jetty  colour.  A  slit  in  the  under  lip,  parallel  to 
the  mouth,  and  a  perforation  in  the  septum  of  the 
nose,  in  which  was  inserted  a  large  quill  or  a  piece 
of  bark,  gave  them  a  hideous  look;  whilst  a  sin- 
gular practice  of  powdering  their  hair  with  the 
down  of  birds,  allowing  the  frostwork  and  icicles 
to  hang  from  the  beard,  and  painting  the  neck 
and  face  \\\\\\  red  ochre,  increased  the  savage  sin- 
gularity of  their  appearance.  Their  clothing  con- 
sisted of  a  single  frock  of  the  sea-otter  skin  reach- 
ing to  their  knees.  When  employed  in  their  canoes, 
they  used  a  dress  made  of  the  entrails  of  the 
whale,  which  covered  the  head,  and  was  so  dis- 
posed that  it  could  be  tied  round  the  hole  in  which 
they  sat,  so  as  to  prevent  the  water  from  getting 
into  the  canoe,  whilst  it  kept  the  lower  part  of  the 
body  warm  and  dry.  Their  hardihood  and  capa- 
city of  enduring  pain  astonished  the  English,  and 
was  remarkably  evinced   upon  an  occasion   men- 


I 


1  14       NATIVES  OF  PRINCE  WILLIAM's  SOUND. 

tioned  by  JMeares : — ''  In  tlie  course  of  the  winter," 
says  lie,  "  among  other  rubbish,  several  broken 
glass  bottles  had  been  thrown  out  of  the  ship,  and 
one  of  the  natives,  who  was  searching  among  them, 
cut  his  foot  in  a  very  severe  manner.  On  seeing  it 
bleed,  we  point<'d  out  what  had  caused  the  wound, 
and  applied  a  dressing  to  it,  which  he  was  made  to 
understand  was  the  remedy  we  ourselves  applied 
on  similar  occasions  ;  but  he  and  his  companions 
instantly  turned  the  whole  into  ridicule,  and  at  the 
same  time  taking  some*  of  the  glass,  they  scarified 
their  legs  and  arms  in  a  most  cruel  and  extraordi. 
nary  manner,  informing  us  that  nothing  of  that 
kind  could  ever  hurt  them."* 

The  disastrous  result  of  this  first  expedition  did 
?iot  deter  either  INleares  or  his  liberal  employers 
from  hazarding  a  second  voyage  to  the  same  coast. 
which  was  att(^nded  with  more  important  results. 
The  Felice,  of  230  tons  burden,  and  the  Iphigeiiia, 
of  200,  were  fitted  out  on  this  adventure;  the  com- 
mand  being  given  to  Captains  Meares  and  Douglas. 
Both  vessels  were  copper-bottomed  and  strongly 
built,  and  their  crews  consisted  of  Europeans  and 
Chinese,  among  whom  were  some  excellent  smiths, 
shipwrights,  and  other  artisans.  The  taking  the 
Chinamen  aboard  was  an  experiment.  Before  this 
time  they  had  never  formed  part  of  the  crew  ut 
an  English  merchant^ship ;  and  it  is  but  justice 
to  say  that  they  proved  hardy,  good-humoured, 
and  industrious  Two  other  very  interesting  pas- 
sengers  were  on  board  of  Captain  JMeares'  ship,— 
Teanna,  a  prince  of  Atooi,   one  of  the  Sandwich 

*  Meare.s'  Voyajj;cs,  vol.  i.  Introductory  Voyage,  p.  00. 


OUND. 


MEARES    SE<:OND  VOYAGE. 


ll.'i 


the  winter," 
eral  broken 
e  ship,  and 
mong  them, 
On  seeing  it 

the  wound, 
was  made  to 
Ives  applied 

companions 
?,  and  at  the 
hey  scarified 
id  extraordi- 
liing  of  that 

pedition  did 
il  employers 
!  same  coast, 
tant  results, 
le  Iphigenia, 
e ;  the  com- 
nd  Douglas, 
nd  strongly 
ropeans  and 
llent  smiths, 
taking  the 
Before  this 
the  crew  ut 
but  justice 
-humoured, 
resting  pas- 
res'  ship,— 
i  Sandwich 


^^^^  P' 


.  (10. 


Isles,  who  had  volunteered  to  leave  his  native  coun- 
try when  Meares  visited  it  during  his  former  expe- 
dition; and  Comekala,  a  native  of  King  (jcorge's 
Sound,  who  had  at  the  same  time  entreated  to  be 
carried  to  China.  Of  these  two  specimens  of  savage 
life  Teaima  was  by  far  the  finest,  both  in  moral 
and  in  physical  qualities.  He  was  about  thirty-two 
years  old,  near  six  feet  five  inches  in  stature,  and 
in  strength  almost  Herculean.  His  carriage  was 
dignified,  and,  in  consequence  of  the  respect  paid  to 
his  superior  rank  in  his  own  country,  possessed  an 
air  of  distinction,  to  which  his  familiarity  with 
European  manners  had  not  communicated  any  stiff- 
ness or  embarrassment.  Comekala,  on  the  other 
hand,  though  cunning  and  sagacious,  was  a  stranger 
to  the  generous  qualities  which  distinguished  the 
prince  of  the  Sandwich  Isles.  He  was  kind  and 
honest  when  it  suited  his  own  interest;  but  stole 
without  scruple  whatever  he  wished  to  have,  and 
could  not  procure  by  fairer  means.  Brass  and  cop- 
per were  metals  which  he  might  almost  be  said  to 
worship.  Copper  halfpence,  buttons,  saucepans, — 
all  possessed  in  his  eyes  the  highest  charms.  It  was 
evident  that  he  coveted  the  brass  buttons  of  the  cap- 
tain's uniform  ;  and  his  mode  of  fixing  his  eyes  on 
the  object  of  his  desire,  and  the  pangs  of  ungratified 
avarice,  as  exhibited  in  the  contortions  of  his  coun- 
tenance, proved  matter  of  much  amusement  to  the 
crew.  The  cause  of  his  insatiable  thirst  for  copper 
hecame  afterwards  apparent. 

In  the  mean  time  Captain  jMeares  found  it  neces- 
sary to  separate  from  his  consort,  whose  slow  sail- 
ing threatened  to  impede  his  progress  ;  and,  after  a 
long  and  hazardous  passage,  the  ship  anchored  in 


n 


i 


]16 


KING  GEORGE  S  SOUND. 


Friendly  Cove  in  King  George's  Sound,  abreast  of 
the  village  of  Nootka,  on  the  morning  of  the  13th 
of  May.     Comekala,  who  for  several  days  had  been 
in  a  state  of  high  excitation,  now  enjoyed  the  ge- 
nuine delight  of  once  more  beholding  his  native 
shore ;  and  when  his  intention  of  landing  was  made 
known,  the  whole  inliabitants  poured  forth  to  give 
him  welcome.     The  dress  in  which  he  chose  to  ap. 
pear  for  the  first  time  after  so  long  an  absence  was 
very  extraordinary :    On  a  former  occasion,  when 
visited  by  Hannapa,  a  brother  chief,  he  contented 
himself  with  an  ordinary  European  suit;  but  he 
now,  says  IMeares,  arrayed  himself  in  all  his  glory  : 
His  scarlet  coat  was  decorated  witli  such  quantities 
of  brass  buttons  and  copper  appendages  of  one  kind 
or  other,  that  they  could  not  fail  to  procure  him 
profound  respect  from  his  countrymen,  and  render 
him  an  object  of  unbounded  admiration  to  the  Noot- 
ka  damsels.     At  least  half  a  sheet  of  copper  formed 
his  breastplate ;  from  his  ears  copper  ornaments  were 
suspended ;  and  he  contrived  to  hang  from  liis  hair, 
which  was  dressed  with  a  long  pig-tail,  so  many 
liandles  of  copper  saucepans,  that  their  weight  kept 
his  head  in  a  stiff  upright  position,   which  very 
much  heightened  the  oddity  of  his  appearance.   For 
several  of  the  ornaments  with  which  he  was  now  so 
proudly  decorated,  Comekala  had  lived  in  a  state  of  [| 
continual  hostility  with  the  cook,  from  whom  he  p 
purloined  them  ;  but  their  last  and  principal  strug-   V 
gle  was  for  an  enormous  spit,  which  the  Ameri-   I 
can  prince  had  seized  as  a  spear  to  swell  the  cir-    i 
cumstances  of  that  splendour  with  which  he  was 
preparing  to  dazzle  the  eyes  of  his  countrymen.    In 
such  a  state  of  accoutrement,  and  feeling  greater  de- 


1 


RKCEPTION  OF  COMEKALA. 


117 


1,  abreast  of 
of  the  13tli 
ys  had  been 
yed  the  ge- 

his  native 
ig  was  made 
fortli  to  give 
chose  to  ap. 
absence  was 
ision,  when 
e  contented 
uit;  but  he 
11  his  glory : 
h  quantities 
of  one  kind 
)rocure  him 

and  render 
to  the  Noot- 
pper  formed 
iments  were 
3m  his  hair, 
i\,  so  many 
weight  kept 
which  very 
irance.   For 


•i 


I 


i 


was  now  so 
in  a  state  of  *l 
n  whom  he 
icipal  Strug-    i 
the  Ameri-    ; 
k'ell  the  cir-    V 
ich  he  was 
rymen.    In 
r  greater  de- 


light  than  ever  was  experienced  on  the  proudest  Eu- 
ropean tiirone,  the  long  boat  rowed  Comekala  ashore, 
when  a  general  and  deafening  shout  from  the  crowd 
assured  him  of  the  universal  joy  felt  on  his  return. 
The  whole  inhabitants  moved  to  the  beach,  welcom- 
ed the  traveller  on  shore,  and  afterwards  conducted 
him  to  the  king's  house,  which  none  but  persons  of 
rank  ^\i..^  permitted  to  enter,  and  where  a  magnifi- 
cent feast  of  whale  bl  ubber  and  oil  was  prepared.  On 
the  whole,  Comekala's  reception,  and  the  impression 
made  by  his  extraordinary  costume,  evinced  his  in- 
timate knowledge  of  the  character  of  his  country- 
men ;  for  though  to  the  English  the  effect  was  ir- 
resistibly comic,  the  natives  regarded  him  with  a 
mixture  of  silent  awe  and  wonder,  which  after  a 
while  oroke  forth  into  expressions  of  universal  as- 
tonishment and  delight. 

Not  long  after  this  exhibition,  tw^o  Nootka  princes, 
^laquilla  and  Callicum,  paid  a  visit  to  the  English. 
Their  little  squadron,  consisting  of  twelve  canoes  with 
eighteen  men  each,  moved  w  ith  stately  parade  round 
the  ship :  The  men  wore  dresses  of  beautiful  sea- 
otter  skills,  covering  them  from  head  to  heel ;  their 
liair  was  powdered  with  the  white  down  of  birds, 
and  their  faces  bedaubed  with  red  and  black  ochre, 
in  the  form  of  a  shark's  jaw  and  a  kind  of  spiral 
line,  which  rendered  their  appearance  extremely 
savage.  Eight  rowers  sat  on  each  side,  and  a  single 
man  at  the  bow;  whilst  the  chiefs,  distinguished  by 
a  high  cap,  pointed  at  the  crown  and  ornamented 
with  a  small  tuft  of  feathers,  occupied  a  place  in  the 
middle.  All  this  was  very  striking ;  but  the  most 
remarkable  accompaniment  was  the  air  which  they 
chanted,  the  effect  of  which  is  described  by  Meares 


11» 


NOOTKA  3IL\SIC. 


jis  uncommonly  pleasing.  "  We  listened,"  says  he. 
''  to  their  song  with,  an  eqjial  defjree  of  surprise  and 
pleasure.  It  was  indeed  impossible  for  any  ear  sus- 
ireptiMe  of  delight  from  musieal  sounds,  or  any  mind 
not  insensible  to  the  power  of  melody,  to  remain 
unmoved  by  this  solemn  unexpected  concert.  The 
chorus  was  in  unison,  and  strictly  correct  as  to  time 
and  tune;  nor  did  a  dissonant  note  escape  them. 
Sometimes  they  would  make  a  sudden  transition 
from  the  high  to  the  low  tones,  with  such  melan- 
choly turns  in  their  variations,  that  we  could  not 
reconcile  to  ourselves  the  manner  in  which  they  ac- 
((uired  or  contrived  this  more  than  untaught  melody 
of  nature.  Tliere  was  also  something  for  the  eye  as 
well  as  the  ear,  and  the  action  that  accompanied 
their  voices  added  very  much  to  the  impression 
which  the  chanting  made  upon  us  all.  Every  onr 
beat  time  with  undeviating  regularity  against  the 
gunwale  of  the  boat  with  their  paddles  ;  and  at  the 
end  of  every  verse  they  pointed  with  extended  arms 
to  the  north  and  south,  gradually  sinking  their  voices 
in  such  a  solemn  manner  as  to  produce  an  effect  not 
often  attained  by  the  orchestras  of  European  na- 
tions." This  account  of  the  impressive  music  of  the 
people  of  Nootka  Sound  is,  the  reader  may  remem- 
lier,  corroborated  by  Captain  Burney.*  The  cere- 
mony, however,  did  not  end  with  the  song;  but 
after  rowing  twice  round  the  ship,  rising  up  each 
time  as  they  passed  the  stern,  and  vociferating, 
"  Wacush  !  Wacush  !"  (friends),  they  brought  their 
canoes  alongside,  and  the  two  chiefs  came  on  board. 
Both  were  handsome  men  of  the  middle  size,  pos- 
sessing a  mild  but  manly  expression  of  countenance. 

*  Supra,  p.  105. 


■k\ 


MANNERS  OK  THfl  NATIVES. 


\VJ 


cI,"  says  Ik', 
urprisc  and 
my  car  sus- 
)r  any  mind 
to  remain 
K'ert.     The 
t  as  to  time 
cape  tliem. 
transition 
ich   melan- 
(  could  not 
ell  they  ae- 
ght  melody 
•  the  eye  as 
x'ompanied 
impression 
Every  onr 
igainst  the 
and  at  thr 
'nded  arms 
heir  voices 
1  effect  not 
opean  na- 
lusic  of  the 
ly  remem- 
Tlie  cere- 
song;  but 
J  up  each 
^iterating, 
ught  their 
on  board. 
size^  pos- 
mtenance. 


They  accepted  a  pn'sent  of  copi)er,  iron,  and  other 
articles,  with  signs  of  great  delight,  and  throwmg 
off  their  .sea-otter  garments  laid  them  gracefully  at 
the  feet  of  the  English,  and  stood  on  the  deck  quite 
naked.  Each  of  them  was  presented  with  a  blanket, 
which  thev  threw  over  their  shoulders  with  marks 
of  high  satisfaction,  and  descending  into  their  ca- 
noes, were  paddled  to  the  shore. 

A  brisk  trade  in  furs  now  commenced,  which, 
though  interrupted  occasionally  by  the  petty  thefts 
of  the  savages,  was  highly  favourable  to  the  commer- 
cial interests  of  the  expedition.  8kins  of  tlie  sea-otter, 
beaver,  martin,  sable,  and  river-otter,  of  the  ermine, 
black-fox,  gray,  white,  and  red  wolf,  wolverine,  mar- 
mot, racoon,  bear,  and  mountain-sheep,  and  in  addi- 
tion to  all  these,  of  the  furred,  speckled,  and  common 
seal,  sea-cow,  and  sea-lion,  were  all  procured,  though 
some  in  greater  abundance  than  others.  Of  these 
by  far  the  most  beautiful  and  valuable  was  the  skin 
of  the  sea-otter.  The  taking  of  this  animal  is  at- 
tended with  considerable  hazard  ;  but  constant  prac- 
tice has  taught  the  natives  both  skill  and  courage. 
"  When  it  is  determined  to  hunt  the  sea-otter," 
says  jMeares,  ''  two  very  small  canoes  are  prepared, 
in  each  of  which  are  seated  two  expert  hunters. 
The  instruments  they  employ  are  bows  and  arrows, 
with  a  small  harpoon  which  differs  somewhat  from 
the  instrument  of  the  same  kind  used  in  hunting 
the  whale,  the  shaft  being  much  the  same;  but  the 
harpoon  itself  of  greater  length,  and  so  notched  and 
barbed  that  when  it  has  once  entered  the  flesh  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  extricate  it.  It  is  attached  to 
the  shaft  by  several  fathoms  of  sufficient  strength  to 


120 


HUNTING  TUJ:  SKA-OTTKR. 


drag  the  otter  to  the  boat.  The  arrows  employed 
are  small,  and  pointed  with  bone  formed  into  a 
-single  barb.  Thus  equipped  the  hunters  proeeed 
among  the  roeks  in  search  of  their  prey.  Some- 
times they  surprise  the  animal  when  sleeping  on 
his  back  on  the  surface  of  the  water;  and  if  they 
can  approach  without  awakening  him,  which  re- 
quires infinite  caution  and  skill,  he  is  easily  har- 
pooned and  dragged  to  the  boat,  when  a  fierce  bat. 
tie  often  ensues  between  the  otter  and  the  hunters, 
who  are  frequently  severely  wounded  by  his  teetli 
and  claws.  The  more  usual  manner  of  taking  him, 
however,  is  by  pursuit,  and  tiie  chase  is  sometimes 
continued  for  hours.  As  the  animal  cannot  remain 
long  under  water,  the  skill  is  here  chiefly  exerted 
to  direct  the  canoes  in  the  same  line  which  the  ot- 
ier  takes  when  under  water,  at  which  time  he 
swims  with  a  celerity  that  greatly  exceeds  that  of 
his  pursuers.  The  moment  he  dives,  therefore, 
the  canoes  separate  in  order  to  have  the  better 
chance  of  wounding  him  with  their  arrows  at  the 
moment  he  rises,  although  it  often  happens  that 
this  wary  and  cunning  animal  escapes,  and  baffles 
the  utmost  skill  of  his  persecutors.  Should  it  hap- 
pen that  the  otters  are  overtaken  with  their  young 
ones,  the  instinct  of  parental  affection  comes  out  in 
its  most  deep  and  interesting  shape;  all  sense  of 
danger  and  of  self-preservation  is  instantly  lost, 
and  both  male  and  female  defend  their  cubs  with 
the  most  furious  courage,  tearing  out  with  their 
teeth  the  arrows  and  harpoons  fixed  in  them,  and 
often  attacking  the  canoes  themselves.  On  such 
occasions^  however,  their  utmost  efforts  are  una- 


HUNTING  tup:  whale. 


121 


s  employed 
med  into  a 
ers  proccrd 
ey.  Sonii'- 
sleeping  on 
and  if  they 

wliich  re- 
easily  liar. 
L  fierce  bat. 
lie  iiunters, 
ly  his  teetli 
;aking  him, 

sometimes 
inot  remain 
^fly  exerted 
licli  the  ot- 
h  time  he 
eds  that  of 
,  therefore, 

the  better 
ows  at  the 
ppens  that 
and  baffles 
uld  it  hap- 
leir  young 

nes  out  in 
11  sense  of 
antly  lost, 

cubs  with 
with  their 
themj  and 

On  such 

are  una- 


vailing, and  they  and  their  offspring  never  fail  of 
yieldinij  to  the  power  of  the  hunters."* 

The  hunting  the  whale,  however,  is  a  still  nobler 
sport;  and  nothing  can  exceed  the  skill  and  intrepi- 
dity with  which  the  Americans  of  Nootka  engage 
in  it.  When  it  is  determined  to  proceed  against 
this  mighty  creature,  the  chief  prepares  himself 
with  great  ceremony:  He  is  clothed  in  the  sea- 
otter's  skin,  his  body  besmeared  with  oil  and  point- 
ed with  red  ochre  ;  the  canoes  selected  for  the  ser- 
vice are  of  a  size  between  those  used  in  war  and 
the  ordinary  kind,  and  contain  eighteen  or  twenty 
men,  the  bravest  and  most  active  that  can  be  found. 
When  the  whale  is  discovered,  the  chief  himself 
throws  the  first  harpoon ;  but  all  the  people  in  the 
var'ou .  attendant  canoes  are  armed  with  the  same 
instrument,  to  be  employed  as  occasion  may  re- 
quire. As  soon  as  the  huge  fish  feels  the  smart  of 
the  first  weapon,  he  dives,  and  carries  the  shaft 
with  all  its  bladders  along  with  him  ;  on  which  the 
boats  follow  in  his  wake,  and  as  he  rises  continue 
to  fix  their  weapons  till  he  finds  it  impossible  to 
sink  from  the  number  of  floating  buoys  attached  to 
his  body.  The  whale  then  drowns,  and  is  towed 
on  shore  with  great  triumph  and  rejoicing.t  He  is 
immediately  cut  up,  part  being  dedicated  to  the 
feast  which  concludes  the  day,  and  the  remainder 
divided  among  those  who  shared  the  dangers  and 
glory  of  the  chase. 

The  ingenuity  of  the  Nootka  savages  in  many 
mechanical  arts  was  very  remarkable.  Their  ma- 
nufacture of  harpoons,  lines,  fish-hooks,  bows  and 

*  Meares,  vol.  ii.  p.  56.  -j-  Ibid.  vol.  ii.  pp.  52,  55. 


m 


122 


NOOTKA  MECHANICAL  ARTS. 


arrows,  their  skill  in  tanning  and  preparing  furs, 
their  injjenious  manner  of  forpinjnr  the  metals  pro- 
cured from  the  En^jlish  into  various  ornaments  for 
their  wives  or  favourites,  and  above  all  their  art  in 
<'onstructing  canoes,  astonished  the  European  and 
Chinese  artisans.  Of  the  iron  received  in  exchange 
for  furs  thev  made  tools ;  and  it  was  seldom  thev 
could  be  prevailed  on  to  use  European  utensils  in 
preference  to  their  own,  with  the  exception  of  the 
saw,  the  utility  of  which  in  abridging  labour  was 
immediately  perceived  and  made  available.  They 
formed  of  the  same  metal  a  species  of  tool  for  hol- 
lowing out  large  trees,  which  purpose  it  served  far 
better  than  any  instrument  the  carpenters  of  the 
Felice  could  give  them.  In  this  operation  a  flat 
stone  was  employed  in  place  of  an  anvil,  whilst  a 
round  one  served  for  a  hammer;  and  with  these 
rude  implements  they  shaped  the  r^^dhot  iron  into 
a  tool  resembling  a  cooper's  adze,  which  they  fas- 
tened to  a  wooden  handle  with  cords  made  of  si- 
news ;  it  was  then  sharpened,  and  proved  admi- 
rably adapted  for  the  purposes  for  which  it  was 
intended.* 

After  the  English  had  been  for  some  time  in 
King  George's  Sound,  the  Americans  began  to  make 
use  of  saMs  formed  of  mats,  in  imitation  of  Captain 
IMeares'  ship.  Hannapa  got  the  sailors  to  rig  one  of 
his  war-canoes  in  the  English  style,  of  which  he  was 
extremely  proud,  never  omitting  the  ceremony  of 
hoisting  his  pendant  whenever  he  approached,  to 
the  great  amusement  of  the  crew.  Not  long  after 
this  the  English  were  waited  upon  by  Wicananish, 

*  Meares,  vol.  ii.  pp.  58,  oU. 


NOOTKA  ARCHITKCTUUE. 


12:  { 


iring  furs, 
iictals  pro- 
init'iits  for 
heir  art  in 
upoan  and 
1  exchaiiiic 
Idoni  tliey 
utensils  in 
ion  of  the 
labour  was 
)le.  They 
)ol  for  liol- 
served  far 
ters  of  the 
tion  a  flat 
1,  whilst  II 
with  these 
t  iron  into 
they  fas- 
lade  of  si- 
ved  admi- 
ich  it  was 

le  time  in 

in  to  make 

of  Captain 

rig  one  of 

ieh  he  w^as 

■remony  of 

oached^   to 

long  after 

ieananish, 


a  prince  of  greater  wealth  and  power  thaii  any  they 
had  yet  seen,  who  invit<'d  them  to  visit  his  kingdom, 
whieh  lay  at  some  distanee  to  the  southward,  that 
a  commercial  int<'rcourse  might  be  established  for 
the  advantaue  of  both  parties.  The  invitation  was 
accepted,  and  W'icananish  himself  met  the  Felice  at 
some  distance  from  the  shore  with  a  small  fleet  of 
canoes;  and,  coming  on  board,  piloted  them  into  the 
harbour.  Tiiey  found  the  capital  to  be  at  least 
three  times  the  size  of  Nootka.  The  country  round 
was  covered  with  impenetrable  woods  of  great  ex- 
tent, in  which  were  trees  of  enormous  size.  After  the 
king  and  his  chiefs  had  been  entertained  on  board,  the 
English  were  in  return  invited  to  a  feast  by  Wica- 
nanish  :  and  it  is  not  easv  to  conceive  a  more  inte- 
resting  picture  of  savage  life  than  is  given  by  INIeares 
on  this  occasion.  ^'  On  entering  the  house,"  says 
he,  '^  we  were  absolutely  astonished  at  the  vast 
area  it  enclosed.  It  contained  a  large  square,  boarded 
up  close  on  all  sides  to  the  height  of  twenty  feet, 
with  planks  of  an  uncommon  breadth  and  length. 
Three  enormous  trees,  rudely  carved  and  painted, 
formed  the  rafters,  which  were  supported  at  the 
ends  and  in  the  middle  by  gigantic  images,  carved 
out  of  huge  blocks  of  timber.  The  same  kind  of 
broad  planks  covered  the  whole  to  keep  out  the  rain  ; 
but  they  were  so  placed  as  to  be  removable  at  plea- 
sure, either  to  receive  the  air  and  light  or  to  let  out 
the  smoke.  In  the  middle  of  this  spacious  room 
were  several  fires,  and  beside  them  large  wooden 
vessels  filled  with  fish-soup.  Large  slices  of  whale's 
flesh  lay  in  a  state  of  preparation,  to  be  put  into 
similar  machines  filled  with  water,  into  which  the 
women,  with  a  kind  of  tongs,  conveyed  hot  stones 


124 


PA  LACK  OF  WICANANISH. 


from  very  fierce  fires,  in  order  to  make  it  boil.  Heaps 
offish  were  strewed  about ;  and  in  this  eeiitral  part 
of  the  square,  which  mi^dit  properly  be  called  tlu' 
kitchen,  stood  large  seal-skiiis  filled  with  oil,  from 
wlience  the  guests  were  served  with  that  delicious 
beverage.  The  trees  that  su[)|)orted  the  roof  were 
of  a  size  which  would  render  the  mast  of  a  first  rate 
man-of-wsir  diminutive  on  a  comparison  with  them  ; 
indeed  our  curiosity  as  well  as  our  astonishment 
was  at  its  utmost  stretcli,  when  we  considered  the 
strength  whicli  must  liave  been  required  to  raise 
these  enormous  beams  to  their  present  eh'vation, 
and  how  sucli  strength  could  be  commanded  by  a 
people  wholly  unacquainted,  as  we  sup|)osed,  with 
the  mechanic  powers.  The  door  by  which  we  enter- 
ed  this  extraordinary  fabric  was  the  mouth  of  one 
of  these  huge  images,  which,  large  as  it  may,  from 
this  circumstance,  be  supposed  to  have  been,  was 
not  disproportioned  to  the  other  features  of  its  co- 
lossal  visage.  We  ascended  by  a  few  steps  on  the 
outside ;  and,  after  passing  the  portal,  descended 
down  the  chin  into  the  house,  where  we  found  new 
matter  for  wonder  in  the  number  of  men,  women, 
and  children  who  composed  the  family  of  the  chiefs 
which  consist'd  of  at  least  800  persons.  These  were 
divided  into  groups  according  to  their  respective 
offices,  which  had  distinct  places  assigned  them. 
The  whole  of  the  interior  of  the  building  was  sur- 
rounded  by  a  bench,  about  two  feet  from  the  ground, 
on  which  the  various  inhabitants  sat,  ate,  and  slept. 
The  chief  appeared  at  the  upper  end  of  the  room 
surrounded  by  natives  of  rank,  on  a  small  raised 
platform,  round  which  were  placed  several  large 
rhests,  over  which  hung  bladders  of  oil,  large  slices 


FKAST  GIVEN  TO  TIIK   KNGLISII. 


12/1 


boil.  II(>a|).s 
tnitral  part 
(•  called  tlx' 
th  oil,  fVoin 
at  delicious 
ic  roof  were 
f  a  first  rate 
with  thcni  ; 
stouishnicnl 
iisidcrcd  the 
red  to  raise 
it  elevation, 
landed  by  a 
►posed,  with 
ch  we  enter, 
outh  of  one 
t  may,  from 
i  been,  was 
es  of  its  CO- 
steps  on  the 

descended 
e  found  new 
len,  women, 
of  the  chief, 

These  were 
respective 
gned  them, 
ng  was  sur- 
the  ground. 
e,  and  slept, 
of  the  room 

mall  raised 
iveral  large 

large  slices 


of  whales'  flesh,  and  proportionable  gobbets  of  blul)- 
ber.  Festoons  of  human  skulls,  arranged  with  some 
attention  to  uniformity,  were  disposed  in  almost 
every  {)art  where  they  could  be  placed  ;  and,  however 
ghastly  such  ornaments  a|)peared  to  European  eyes, 
they  were  evidently  coTisidered  by  the  courtiers  and 
people  of  Wicananish  as  a  very  splendid  and  aj)- 
propriate  decoration  of  the  royal  apartment."  When 
the  KFiglish  appeared  the  guests  had  made  a  con- 
siderable advance  in  their  baiiquet.  Before  each 
person  was  placed  a  large  slice  of  boiled  whale, 
which,  with  small  wooden  dishes  filled  with  oil  and 
fish-soup,  and  a  muscle-shell  instead  of  a  spoon, 
composed  the  economy  of  the  table.  The  servants 
l)usily  replenished  the  <lishes  as  they  were  emptied, 
and  the  women  |)icked  and  opened  some  I>ark,  which 
served  the  purpose  of  towels.  The  guests  despatch- 
ed their  messes  with  astonishing  rapidity  and  vo- 
racity, and  even  the  children,  some  of  them  not 
above  three  years  old,  devoured  the  blubber  and 
oil  with  a  rapacity  worthy  of  their  fathers.  Wica- 
nanish in  the  mean  time  did  the  honours  with  an 
air  of  hospitabh'  yet  dignified  courtesy,  which  might 
have  graced  a  more  cultivated  society. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  feast  it  was  intimated  to  the 
English  that  the  proper  time  had  arrived  to  produce 
their  presents.  Upon  this  a  great  variety  of  articles 
were  displayed ;  among  which  were  several  blankets 
and  two  copper  t<'a-kettles.  On  these  last,  considered 
to  be  almost  inestimable,  the  eyes  of  the  whole  assem- 
bly were  instantly  riveted ;  and  a  guard  was  imme- 
diately mounted,  who  kept  a  jealous  watch  over 
them  till  curiosity  was  gratified ;  after  which,  they 
were  deposited  in  large  ch'^sts  rudely  carved  and 


12G 


BRISK  TRADE  IN  FURS. 


fancifully  adorned  with  human  teeth.  About  fifty 
men  now  advanced  into  the  middle  of  tlie  apart- 
ment, eacli  liolding  up  a  sea-otter  skin  nearly  six 
feet  in  length,  and  while  they  remained  in  that  posi. 
tion  the  prince  delivered  a  speech,  drrin^  which  he 
gave  his  hand  in  token  of  friendship  to  the  captain, 
and  informinjo;  him  that  these  skins  were  the  return 
he  proposed  to  make  for  the  present  he  had  just  re- 
ceived, concluded  by  ordering  them  to  be  immedi- 
ately conveyed  on  board. 

The  English  now  opened  a  urisk  trade,  procur- 
ing the  finest  furs,  whilst  they  were  supplied  with 
excellent  provisions:  Salmon,  cod,  halibut,  rock- 
fish,  and  herrings,  were  brought  to  them  fresh  from 
the  water ;  and  the  women  and  children  sold  them 
berries,  wild  onions,  salads,  and  other  esculent 
plants.  Wicananish,  however,  was  anxious  to  esta- 
blish a  rigid  monopoly,  and  evinced  the  utmost  jea- 
lousy lest  any  neighbouring  princes  should  be  admit- 
ted to  trade  with  the  English.  None  were  allowed 
to  go  on  board  without  his  license  ;  and  one  unfor- 
tunate stranger  was  detected  without  a  parsport,  hur- 
ried into  the  woods,  and,  as  was  strongly  suspected, 
instantly  put  to  death.  At  last  two  chiefs,  who 
had  already  entered  into  some  transactions  with 
Captain  IMeares,  remonstrated  against  such  illibe- 
rality ;  and  Wicananish,  rather  than  go  to  war, 
concluded  a  treaty,  wiiich  had  the  effect  of  restor- 
ing a  good  understanding  by  mutual  sacrifices. 
Hanna  and  Detootche  agreed  to  resign  to  Wicana- 
nish all  the  otter  skins  in  their  possession  on  condi- 
tion of  receiving  the  two  copper  tea-kettles  already 
mentioned.  These  last  articles,  however  ludicrous 
it  may  appear  in  the  eyes  of  European  diplomatists, 


NATURE  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 


127 


About  fiftv 
f  the  apart- 
i  nearly  six 
ill  that  posi- 
lij  wliit'h  lie 
the  captain, 
e  the  return 
had  just  re. 
be  immecli- 

ide,  procur- 
ipplied  with 
libut,  rock- 

I  fresh  from 

II  sold  them 
er  esculent 
ious  to  esta- 
utmost  jea- 
d  be  admit- 
ere  allowed 

one  iinfor- 
rsportj,  liur- 
f  suspected, 
L'hiefs^  who 
tions  with 
;uch  illibe- 
go  to  war, 
of  restor- 
sacrifices. 

0  Wicana- 

1  on  condi- 
es  already 
•  ludicrous 
plomatists, 


V 


formed  the  grand  basis  of  the  treaty,  and  the  terms 
of  exchange  were  not  arranged  without  much  diffi- 
culty. During  these  proceedings  the  English  had 
little  opportunity  to  examine  the  country  ;  but  every 
thing  which  they  saw  was  inviting.  An  archipe- 
lago extended  from  King  George's  Sound  to  the 
harbour  of  Wicananish,  most  cf  the  islands  being 
covered  with  wood,  with  few  clear  spots.  The  soil 
was  rich,  producing  berries  and  fruits  in  abundance, 
and  the  timber  of  uncommon  size  and  beauty,  con- 
sisting chiefly  of  red  oak,  large  cedar,  black  and 
white  spruce-fir.  In  their  expeditions  into  the  in- 
terior they  met  with  frequent  groves,  where  al- 
most every  second  tree  was  fit  for  masts  of  any  di- 
mensions." 

From  Wicananish  Captain  Meares  sailed  south- 
ward along  a  coast  not  visited  by  Cook,  of  which  the 
chart  by  JMaurelle  was  so  inaccurate,  that  it  seem- 
ed almost  certain  he  had  never  surveyed  it  in  per- 
son. During  this  voyage  they  were  visited  by  a 
small  lleet  of  canoes,  filled  with  people  far  more  sa- 
vage ihan  those  hitherto  met  with.  The  face  of  the 
chief  was  ])edaubed  with  black  ochre,  and  powdered 
with  a  glittering  sand,  which  communicated  a  singu- 
lar fierceness  of  expression;  whilst  his  manners  were 
rude,  and  gave  no  encouragement  to  any  more  in- 
timate intercourse.  Alt  ares  continued  his  survey  of 
the  coast  as  far  north  as  latitude  49°  37';  after 
which  he  retraced  his  progress,  and  on  reaching 
the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fu9a  took  possession  of  it, 
with  all  the  usual  ceremonies,  in  the  name  of  the 
King  of  Great  Britain.  The  existence  of  this  chan- 
nel, which  had  been  doubted  since  its  discovery  in 

*  Meares'  Voyaj^es,  vol.  i,  p.  239. 


i 


128 


STRAIT  OF  JUAN  DE  FU^A. 


1592;,  was  now  positively  ascertained,  and  the  long- 
lx)at  was  despatclied  up  the  strait  under  the  com- 
mand of  j\Ir  Uuffin,  first  officer  of  the  Felice.  Her 
crew  consisted  of  tliirteen  sailors,  well  armed,  and 
provisioned  for  a  month.  In  a  week,  however,  they 
returned, — with  their  full  complement  indeed,  but 
every  one  of  them  wounded.  They  had  been  at- 
tacked by  the  natives  with  a  ferocity  and  determi- 
nation which  set  at  nought  the  usual  terror  of  fire- 
arms. The  assailants  used  their  bows  and  arrows, 
clubs,  spears,  stone-bludgeons,  and  slings,  with  great 
skill  and  courage.  The  boat  itself  showed  this,  being 
pierced  in  numerous  places  with  the  barbed  arrows, 
many  of  which  were  still  sticking  in  the  awi.ing, 
which,  by  intercepting  the  heavy  showers  of  these 
missiles  and  breaking  the  fall  of  the  large  sto::es 
discharged  from  the  slings,  was  the  principal  means 
of  preserving  the  lives  of  the  crew. 

On  returning  down  the  strait,  they  were  met  by 
a  canoe  paddled  by  two  subjects  of  Wicananish,  and 
after  purchasing  some  fish  were  about  to  bid  them 
farewell,  when  the  savages  made  them  aware  that 
they  still  had  another  commodity  to  dispose  of,  and 
to  their  inexpressible  horror  exhibited  two  human 
heads  still  dripping  with  blood.  "  They  held  up 
these  detestable  objects  by  the  hair,"  says  Meares, 
"  with  an  air  of  triumph  and  exultation,  and  when 
the  crew  of  the  boat  discovered  signs  of  disgust  and 
detestation  at  so  appalling  a  spectacle,  the  savages, 
in  a  tone  and  with  looks  of  extreme  satisfaction,  in- 
formed them  that  they  were  the  heads  of  two  people 
belonging  to  Tatootche,  the  enemy  of  their  own 
king  Wicananish,  whom  they  had  recently  slain."* 


*  Meares'  Voyag'es,  vol.  i.  p.  2811. 
6 


CANNIBALISM. 


129 


I  the  long- 
•  the  corn- 
lice.  Her 
rnied,  and 
ever,  they 
ndeed,  but 
I  been  at- 
l  determi- 
•or  of  fire- 
id  arrows, 
vvitli  great 
this,  being 
ed  arrows, 
e  awLing, 
•s  of  these 
,rge  stojies 
pal  means 

re  met  bv 

anish,  and 

bid  them 

ware  that 

)se  of,  and 

m  human 

f  held  up 

s  Meares, 

and  when 

isgust  and 

savages, 

iction,  in- 

wo  people 

heir  own 

y  slain."* 


This  last  occurrence  threw  a  gloom  over  tlie  spirit;' 
of  the  ship's  company,  and  caused  them  to  make 
more  minute  inquiries  into  the  habits  of  the  savages, 
which  brought  to  light  some  very  extraordinary 
circumstances.  IMild  and  amiable  as  were  the  ge- 
neral manners  of  the  inhabitants  of  Nootka  Sound,  it 
was  discovered  by  their  own  confession,  that  they 
not  only  tortured  captives  with  every  refinement 
of  cruelty,  but  feasted  on  human  flesh.  Callicum,  a 
chief  described  bv  jMeares  as  a  model  of  kindness 
and  even  of  delicacv  in  his  intercourse  with  the 
English,  acknowledged  that  he  slept  nightly  on  a 
pillow  filled  with  human  skulls,  which  he  often  ex- 
hibited as  trophies  of  his  valour.  Maquilla  betrayed 
his  cannibal  propensities  in  a  manner  still  more 
decided :  "  It  so  happened  that  the  chief,  in  as- 
cending the  side  of  the  ship,  by  some  untoward 
accident  received  a  hurt  in  the  leg.  Orders  were 
immediately  given  to  the  surgeon  to  attend,  and 
when  he  was  about  to  apply  a  plaster  to  the  wound, 
IMaquilla  absolutely  refused  to  submit,  but  sucked 
himself  the  blood  which  freely  flowed  from  it;  and 
when  we  expressed  our  astonishment  and  disgust 
-^j,  sucli  conduct,  he  replied  by  licking  his  lips,  pat- 
rrncr  his  belly,  and  exclaiming,  '  Cloosh,  cloosh,'  or 
(iood,  good  !'  Nor  did  he  now  hesitate  to  confess 
that  he  ate  human  flesh,  and  to  express  the  delight 
he  took  in  banqueting  upon  Iiis  fellow-creatures  ; 
not  only  avowing  the  practice,  but  informing  the 
crew,  as  they  stood  shuddering  at  the  story,  that 
not  long  before  this  the  ceremony  of  killing  and 
eating  a  slave  had  taken  place  at  Friendly  Cove."^ 
This  acknowledgment  was  confirmed  by  Callicum 


*  Meares'  Voyaj^cs,  vol.  ii.  p.  49. 


H 


130 


SUPERSTITIONS  OF  THE  NATIVES 


and  Ilaniiapa,  who,  protesting  tliey  had  never  tasted 
the  smallest  bit  of  human  flesh  themselves,  describ. 
ed  ]\raquilla  as  peculiarly  fond  of  it,  and  in  the 
practice  of  killing  a  slave  once  a-month  to  gratify 
his  unnatural  appetite.  Perhaps  there  might  be 
some  exaggeration  in  this ;  but  the  ghastly  orna. 
ments  of  Wicananish's  dining-room,  the  extraordi. 
nary  pillow  of  Callicura,  the  exposure  of  men't 
heads  and  limbs  for  sale,  and  the  admission  of  tin 
chief  himself,  sufficiently  j)rove  the  existence  of  t]li^ 
atrocious  custom,  whatever  might  be  the  extent  tn 
which  it  was  carried. 

For  a  long  time  the  English  thought  the  inhabit, 
ants  had  no  religious  belief  whatever.  To  Lie  hufft 
misshapen  images  seen  in  their  houses  they  ad- 
dressed no  homage ;  they  had  neither  priests  nor 
temples,  nor  did  they  offer  any  sacrifices ;  but  an 
accidental  circumstance  led  to  the  discovery  that, 
though  devoid  of  all  superstitious  observances,  and 
wholly  ignorant  of  the  true  God,  they  were  not  with- 
out  a  certain  species  of  mythology,  including  the  be- 
lief  of  an  existence  after  death.  ^'  This  discoverv,' 
says  JMeares,  "  arose  from  our  inquiries  on  a  very 
different  subject:  On  expressing  our  wish  to  be 
informed  by  what  means  they  became  acquainted 
with  copper,  and  why  it  was  such  a  peculiar 
object  of  their  admiration,  a  son  of  Hannapa, 
one  of  the  Nootkan  chiefs,  a  youth  of  uncommon 
sagacity,  informed  us  of  all  he  knew  on  the  sub- 
ject ;  and  we  found,  to  our  surprise,  that  his  story 
involved  a  little  sketch  of  their  religion."  When 
words  were  wanting  he  supplied  the  deficiency  by 
those  expressive  actions  which  nature  or  necessity 
seems  to  communicate  to  people  whose  language  h 


VES: 

[  never  tasted 
Ives,  describ- 
and  in  tho 
th  to  gratify 
re  miglit  Ik 
;hastly  orna. 
le  extraordi. 
ire  of  men't 
ission  of  tlu 
stence  of  tlii.< 
the  extent  t( 

]  the  inhabit. 
To  Uie  hiig( 
ses  they  ad- 
r  priests  nor 
ices;  hut  an 
^covery  that, 
rvances,  and 
ere  not  witli- 
iding  the  be- 
s  discovery,' 
es  on  a  verv 

ft 

wish  to  be 
acquainted 
a  peculiar 
Hannapa, 
uncomnioi! 
on  the  sub- 
lat  Iiis  story 
on."  Wlieii 
leficiency  by 
or  necessitv 
language  i^ 


THKIR  STRANGE  TRADITIONS. 


1:31 


imperfect;  and  the  young  Nootkan  conveyed  his 
id(?as  by  signs  so  skilfully  as  to  render  them  [)er- 
fectly  intelligible.  He  related  his  story  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner: — "  He  first  placed  a  certain  num- 
lw?r  of  sticks  on  the  ground,  at  small  distances  from 
each  other,  to  which  he  gave  separate  names.  Thus, 
he  called  the  first  his  father,  and  the  next  his  grand- 
father: he  then  took  what  remained  and  threw 
them  all  into  confusion  together,  as  much  as  to  say 
that  they  were  the  general  heap  of  his  ancestors, 
whom  he  could  not  individually  reckon.  He  then, 
pointing  to  this  bundle,  said,  when  they  lived  an  old 
man  entered  the  sound  in  a  copper  canoe,  with  cop- 
per paddles,  and  every  thing  else  in  his  possession 
of  the  same  metal ;  that  he  paddled  along  the  shore, 
on  which  all  the  people  were  assembled  to  contem- 
plate so  strange  a  sight,  and  that,  having  thrown 
one  of  his  copper  paddles  on  shore,  he  himself  land- 
ed. The  extraordinary  stranger  then  told  the  natives 
that  he  came  from  the  sky,  to  which  the  boy  point- 
(!d  with  liis  hand ;  that  their  country  would  one  day 
be  destroyed,  when  they  would  all  be  killed,  and 
rise  again  to  live  in  the  place  from  whence  he  came. 
Our  young  interpreter  explained  this  circumstance 
of  his  narrative  by  lying  down  as  if  he  were  dead, 
and  then,  rising  up  suddenly,  he  imitated  the 
action  as  if  he  were  soaring  through  the  air.  He 
continued  to  inform  us  that  the  people  killed  the 
old  man  and  took  his  canoe,  from  which  event  they 
derived  their  fondness  for  copper,  and  he  added  that 
the  images  in  their  houses  were  intended  to  repre- 
sent the  form,  and  perpetuate  the  mission  of  this 
supernatural  person  who  came  from  the  sky."  ■ 

*  Meares'  Voyaf;;es,  vol.  ii.  pp.  70,  71- 


J 32     SPECULATIONS  ON  A  NORTH-WEST  PASSAGE. 


As  the  objects  of  this  voyage  were  principally  ot 
a  commercial  nature,  Captain  T^Ieares  had  better 
opportunities  to  observe  the  character  of  tin?  nativ;  s 
than  to  explore  tlie  coast  or  the  interior  of  the  coun- 
try.    The  range  of  his  navigation,  extending  only 
from  Nootka  Sound  to  the  latitude  of  49°  37'  north, 
disclosed  no  regular  continuity  of  land,  but  in  everv 
direction  large  islands,  divided  by  deep  sounds  and 
channels.     The  time  which  this  intelligent  seaman 
could  spare  was  not  enough  to  complete  the  surv<'y , 
but,  judging  from  what  he  did  see,  he  was  led  to  tin 
l)elief  that  the  entire  space  from  St  George's  Sound 
to  Hudson's  Bay  and  Davis'  Strait,  instead  of  a 
continent,  was  occupied  by  an  immense  archipelajio. 
through  which  might  reach  a  passage  from  the  Pa- 
cific into  the  Atlantic  Ocean.     ^^  The  channels  of 
this  archipelago,"  says  he  in   his  memoir  on  tlu 
probable  existence  of  a  north-west  passage,  "  wer( 
found  to  be  wide  and  capacious,   with   near  20(i 
fathoms   depth   of  water,  and  huge  promontories 
stretching  out  into  the  sea,  where  whales  and  sea- 
otters  were  seen  in  an  incredible  abundance.     In 
some  of  these  channels  there  are  islands  of  ice  whieJi 
we  may  venture  to  say  could  never  have  been  form- 
ed on  the  western  side  of  America,  which  possesses 
a  mild  and  moderate  climate ;  so  that  their  existence 
cannot  be  reconciled  to  any  other  idea  than  that 
they  received  their  formation  in  the  Eastern  Seas, 
and  have  been  drifted  by  tides  and  currents  throuali 
the  passage  for  whose  existence  we  are  contending.'" 
To  determine  this  great  question,  and  complelc 
an  accurate  survey  of  the  north-west  coast  of  Ame- 
rica, Captain  Vancouver,  an  excellent  officer,  who 

—  ■!  ■  ■■■■!■■  ■■I.  -       ■        I  I  II  ■■        I    ...    I  ■    ■■■  111        I  II         —     I  11      .MM  IHIIil  IIBI  !■■— 

*  Meares'  Voyag'es,  vol.  ii.  p.  242. 


'  PASSAGE. 

)rineipally  ot 
3  had  better 
f  the  nativ(  s 
of  the  coun- 
tending  only 
9°  37'  nortli, 
but  in  everv 

« 

)  sounds  and 

gent  seaman 

the  survey : 

■ 

ras  led  to  tin 
orge's  Sound 
instead  of  a 
arehipelapo 
rom  the  Pa- 
'  channels  of 
imoir  on  tlu 


VOVAGE  OF  VANCOUVER. 


133 


(( 


wen 


page; 

h   near  2()(i 

promontories 

es  and  sea- 

ndance.     In 

of  ice  whicli 

been  fonii- 

ich  possesses 

eir  existence 

a  than  tlial 

astern  Seas, 

nts  throuali 

>ntending."^ 

id  complete 

ist  of  Ame- 

officer,  who 


had  received  liis  professional  education  under  Cook, 
was  despatclied  in  17iH) ;  and,  commencing  his 
voyage  at  Caj)e  iMendocino,  in  latitude  4P,  he 
sailed  northward  211)  leagues  to  the  Strait  of  Juan 
de  Fuca,  never  losing  sight  of  the  surf  which  dash- 
ed against  the  shore,  taking  once  or  twice  every 
day  the  meridional  altitude,  and  minutely  noting 
the  position  of  the  most  conspicuous  points.  The 
wholecoast  presented  an  impenetrable  barrier  against 
approach  from  the  sea,  and  no  opening  was  found  to 
adbrd  his  vessels  tlie  smallest  shelter.  He  then  ex- 
plored the  Strait  of  Juan  de  Fu9a;  and  having  sa- 
tisfied himself  that  no  passage  across  America  was  to 
be  discovered  there,  devoted  his  time  to  the  survey  of 
the  labyrinth  of  islands,  sounds,  and  inlets,  between 
i)(P  and  ()0^  of  latitude.  After  a  series  of  patient 
and  scientific  observations  every  way  worthy  of  the 
school  in  which  he  had  been  bred,  he  ascertained 
the  grand  fact  that  the  coast  was  throughout  conti- 
nuous, and  thus  dispelled  all  hope  of  a  north-west 
passage  in  this  quarter.  It  was  his  fate  to  en- 
counter not  a  little  uiu'easonable  scepticism  when 
the  result  was  made  public;  and,  like  many  other 
travellers  and  navigators,  he  found  too  much  reason 
to  complain  of  those  lazy  closet-philosophers,  who 
refuse  to  admit  any  testimony  which  happens  to 
contradict  their  own  preconceived  theories.  Time, 
however,  has  done  him  justice,  and  fully  confirmed 
the  accuracy  of  his  report. 

After  the  disastrous  result  of  the  expedition  of 
Behring,  more  than  eighty  years  elapsed  before  Rus- 
sia thought  proper  to  pursue  the  career  of  disco- 
very on  the  extreme  coasts  of  North-western  Ame- 
rica.    At  length  Count  Romanzoff,  a  scientific  and 


J.^4 


KOTZEBUE. 


patriotic  nobleman,  deterniiiicd  to  despatch  Lieu- 
tenant Kotzehue  on  a  voyage  to  tlie  straits  which 
bear  the  name  of  that  ^reat  mariner.  His  e(iuip- 
ment  consisted  of  a  single  v<'ssel,  tlie  lUirick,  100 
tons  burden^  with  twenty-two  sailors,  a  surgeon,  and 
a  botanist.  Having  doubled  Cape  Horn,  he  ar. 
rived  on  the  IDth  June  1810  at  Awatrcha.  Con- 
tinning  his  course  he  passed  the  boundary  ex[)lore(l 
by  Behring,  and  on  the  1st  of  August  descried  on 
his  right,  in  latitude  ()8",  a  broad  opening  which  he 
trust(.'d  would  prove  the  long-sought- for  i)assage. 
Having  entered,  he  landed  on  the  beach,  ascend- 
ed a  neighbouring  hill,  and  saw  nothing  but  wa- 
ter as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  Full  of  ardent 
expectation  he  employed  a  fortnight  in  examining' 
this  sound,  making  a  complete  circuit  of  its  shores. 
No  outlet,  however,  w^as  discovered,  except  one, 
which  it  a])peared  almost  certain  communicated 
with  Norton  Sound,  and  Kotzebue  resumed  his 
voyage,  which,  however,  was  attended  with  no  new 
or  important  results.  To  this  arm  of  the  sea,  the 
discovery  of  which  forms  the  principal  feature  in  his 
enterprise,  he  has  very  properly  communicated  his 
name. 

With  Kotzebue  terminates  our  account  of  the  pro- 
gress of  discovery  upon  the  north-w^estern  shores  of 
America ;  for  an  outline  of  the  survey  made  by  Cap- 
tain Beechey  belongs  to  a  future  portion  of  thisdisqui- 
sition.  It  is  a  pleasing  reflection,  that  almost  exclu- 
sively to  the  British  navy  belongs  the  hard-earned 
praise  of  having  explored  nearly  the  whole  of  this 
coast,  with  an  accuracy  which  leaves  nothing  to  be 
desired  by  the  most  scientific  navigator. 


COLONISATION  OP  CANADA. 


I3r, 


)atc1i  Liou. 
raits  wliicli 
His  t'(iiiii)- 
^urick,  100 
Lirgeon,  and 
)rn,  lie  ar- 
eha.  Coii- 
ry  explored 
descried  on 
ifr  whieh  lu' 
or  i)assafje. 
eh,  asceiid- 
lij  but  wa- 
1  of  ardent 
exaniininff 
if  its  shores, 
except  one, 
iimunieated 
esunied  his 
.'ith  no  new- 
he  sea,  tile 
ature  in  his 
nicated  his 

of  the  pro. 
n  shores  of 
de  by  Cap- 
thisdisqui- 
nost  exclu- 
ard-earned 
lole  of  this 
hing  to  be 


CIIAPTPm  III. 

Ilcnrne  and  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie. 

Colonisation  ol'  Canada — Franch  P'lir-Trade — Rise  of  Hudson's 
Bay  Company — Ileariio's  Three  .Journeys — Nortli-West  Fur 
Company — First  Journey  of  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  in  IJJW — 
His  Second  Expedition  in  17'J2. 

Having  completed  a  brief  sketch  of  the  progress  of 
discovery  along  the  wide  extent  of  the  eastern  and 
western  shores  of  North  America,  from  the  first  ex- 
pedition of  Cabot  to  the  latest  attempts  of  Kotze- 
bue,  two  important  subjects  present  themselves, — 
the  rise  of  the  fur-trade,  and  the  great  discoveries 
wliich  were  achieved  by  British  subjects  connected 
with  this  branch  of  commercial  enterprise.  The 
expedition  of  Cartier  conferred  on  the  French  that 
title  to  the  countries  round  the  8t  Lawrence  which 
results  from  priority  of  discovery  ;  and  other  cir- 
cumstances combined  to  direct  their  efforts  chief- 
ly to  the  colonisation  of  the  more  northern  tracts  of 
America.  Amongst  these  causes  may  be  reckoned 
the  disastrous  failure  of  their  attempt  to  establish  a 
settlement  in  Florida,  the  great  power  of  the  Spa- 
niards in  that  quarter,  and  the  pre-occupation  of  the 
middle  regions  of  the  continent  by  the  English.  In 
1598,  the  Sieur  de  la  Roche,  a  Breton  gentleman  of 


J3f) 


SIECR  DE  LA  ROCHE. 


ancient  family,  obtained  from  Henry  IV.  a  patent, 
equally  unlimited  with  that  granted  by  Elizabeth  to 
Gilbert  and  Raleigh.  He  was  nominated  Lieute- 
nant-General  of  Canada,  Hochelaga,  Newfoundland, 
Labrador,  and  of  the  countries  lying  on  the  River  of 
the  great  Bay  of  Norimbega  (meaning  the  St  Law. 
rence),  and  the  supreme  command,  both  civil  and 
military,  was  concentrated  in  his  single  person.  His 
preparations  were  singularly  disproportionate  to  thest 
high-sounding  titles,  and  the  whole  expedition  was 
unfortunate.  La  Roche,  with  a  small  squadron,  and 
crews  consistingprincipally  of  convicted  felons,  land, 
ed  on  Sable  Island,  near  the  coast  of  Nova  Scotia. 
From  this  barren  spot,  ill  adapted  for  a  settlement, 
he  reached  the  opposite  shore,  which  he  surveyed ; 
and  having  intrusted  the  temporary  command  of  the 
colony  to  an  inferior  officer,  he  returned  to  France 
to  procure  additional  supplies.  On  arriving  in  Brit. 
tany,  a  dispute  arose  between  him  and  the  Duke  de 
Mercoeur,  a  nobleman  enjoying  the  confidence  of  the 
French  monarch,  by  whose  influence  the  royal  fa- 
vour was  wholly  withdrawn  from  La  Roche.  That 
adventurer,  deprived  of  all  means  of  prosecuting 
his  enterprise  in  the  New  World,  soon  after  died  of 
a  broken  heart. 

IMeantime  the  colony  on  Sable  Island  were  exposed 
to  famine  and  disease,  and  totally  neglected  by  the 
king,  amid  the  occupation  and  excitement  of  his  vast 
political  schemes.  Their  existence  was  at  length 
accidentally  recalled  to  the  mind  of  Henry,  who 
in  deep  remorse  for  his  forgetfulness  despatched  a 
vessel,  which  on  its  arrival  found  only  twelve  sur- 
vivors. They  had  formed  a  hovel  of  the  planks  of 
a  shipwrecked  Spanish  vessel,  supported  themselves 


CIIAUVIN  AND  PONTGRAVK. 


137 


V.  a  patent, 
Elizabetli  to 
lied  Lieutc. 
^vfoundlaiid, 
the  River  of 
Jie  St  Law. 
ih  civil  and 
person.  His 
nate  to  these 
)edition  was 
uadron,  and 
felons^  land. 
iJova  Scotia. 

settlement, 
e  surveyed ; 
mand  of  the 
d  to  France 
ing  in  Brit, 
tlie  Duke  de 
dence  of  tlie 

le  royal  fa- 
oche.    That 

prosecuting 

fter  died  of 

ere  exposed 
cted  by  the 
of  his  vast 
at  length 
enry,  w^ho 
spatched  a 
welve  sur- 
planks  of 
themselves 


l)y  fisliinii,  and  replaced  th.  Ir  worn-out  European 
^rarnients  with  the  skins  of  the  sea-wolf.  On  their 
return  to  France,  the  monarch  was  greatly  moved 
by  the  account  of  their  sufferings,  corroborated  as  it 
was  by  their  emaciated  and  hagard  aspect,  matted 
hair,  beards  which  almost  swept  the  ground,  and 
singular  dress.  He  hastened  to  compensate  for  his 
neglect,  by  granting  to  such  as  were  felons  a  free 
pardon,  and  presenting  to  each  a  sum  of  fifty 
crowns.* 

These  disasters  wore  followed  soon  after  by  an 
attempt  of  Chauvin  and  Pontgrave,  two  fur-mer- 
chants, to  establish  a  colony  at  Tadoussack,  on  the 
mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  which  proved  abortive,  and 
gave  place  to  an  expedition  on  a  more  enlarged 
scale,  planned  and  conducted  l)y  De  jMonts,  a  gen- 
tleman of  Saintonge,  whose  squadron  consisted  of 
forty  vessels.  His  first  settlement  was  on  the  Island 
of  St  Croix,  from  which  he  removed  to  Port  Royal, 
now  known  by  the  name  of  Annapolis,  where  he 
appears  to  have  abandoned  his  more  pacific  designs 
for  the  superior  excitation  and  profits  of  piracy. 
The  complaints  of  the  merchants  engaged  in  the 
Newfoundland  fishery  terminated  in  the  recall  and 
disgrace  of  De  JMonts ;  but  Champlain,  on  whom 
the  command  devolved,  showed  himself  every  way 
worthy  of  the  trust.  From  Tadoussack  he  reproved 
the  principal  settlement  to  Quebec,  where  he  built 
and  fortified  a  town,  reduced  the  surrounding  terri- 
tory into  cultivation,  and  became  the  founder  of  the 
government  of  Canada,  or  New  France.  Leaving 
his  infant  settlement,  he  next  determined  to  pene^ 

*  Histoire  General  des  Voyages,  vol.  xiv.  pp.  509,  5'JL 


J3« 


CUAMPLAIN. 


tratc  into  the  interior;  and  his  emotions  of  wonder 
and  astonislinient  may  l)e  easily  eoneeived,  wiien. 
ascending'  tlie  St  Lawrence,  the  majestie  forests  of 
Canada  first  met  liis  eye,  eneirelin^f  in  their  hosoni 
i\u)  greatest  hikes  known  to  exist  in  the  world. 
Surveyinif  first  the  southern  bank  of  the  river,  and 
of  the  lakes  Ontario  and  Erie,  he  found  tliat  he 
iiad  readied  the  very  cradle  of  savage  life,  sur- 
rounded by  nations  whose  manners,  occupations, 
and  superstitions,  were  as  new  as  they  were  bold 
and  terrific. 

To  pursue  the  discoveries  of  tlie  F'rencli  into  the 
interior  of  North  America  does  not  properly  fall 
within  the  limits  of  this  work ;  and  it  is  sufticient  at 
present  to  observe,  that  after  a  long  and  sanguinary 
struggle  between  the  arms  of  France  and  igland, 
in  the  war  which  broke  out  in  1756,  C  .!a  was 
at  last  subdued  by  the  English,  and  the  possession 
of  the  province  confirmed  to  Great  Britain  by  the 
treaty  of  1763.  During  the  war  between  the  United 
States  and  the  mother  country,  Upper  Canada  once 
more  became  the  theatre  of  an  obstinate  contest, 
which  concluded,  however,  unfavoural)ly  for  the 
American  troops ;  and  the  country  has  since  remain, 
ed  an  integral  part  of  the  British  dominions.  Un- 
der  the  French  the  fur-trade,  notwithstanding  the 
restrictions  with  whicli  commerce  was  oppressed, 
was  carried  to  a  great  height  and  embraced  an  im- 
mense extent  of  country.  It  was  conducted  by  a 
set  of  hardy  adventurers,  who  joined  the  savages  in 
their  hunting-parties,  and  thus  collected  large  car- 
goes of  furs  with  vv^hich  they  supplied  the  merchants. 
Their  distant  inland  expeditions  sometimes  occupied 
twelve  or  even  eighteen  months ;  and  during  this 


KIIKNCII   KlJU-TItADE. 


\:\\) 


I  of  wonder 
vv{\,  wlicn, 
ic  forests  of 
heir  bosom 
tlic  world. 
'  river,  and 
lid  tliat  he 
i  life,  sur- 
ceupations, 
■  were  bold 

ell  into  tlie 
roperly  fall 
mfl'icient  at 
sanguinary 
d  igland, 
'^  la  was 
?  possession 
ain  by  the 
the  United 
ianada  once 
ate  contest, 
)ly  for  the 
ice  remain- 
lions.  Un- 
anding  the 

oppressed, 
ced  an  im- 
iicted  by  a 

savages  in 
1  large  car- 
merchants, 
es  occupied 
luring  this 


period  their  uninterrupted  familiarity  with  the  na- 
tives almost  transformed   them  into   as  wild  and 
barbarous  a  condition  as  that  of  the  tribes  with  whom 
they  associated.     "  It  requires  less  time,"  says  Sir 
Alexander  Mackenzie,    "for  a  civilized  people  to 
deviat<'  into  the  manners  and  customs  of  savage  life* 
than  for  savages  to  rise  into  a  state  of  civilisation. 
Such  was  the  event  with  those  who  thus  accom- 
panied th(!  natives  on  their  hunting  and  trading  ex- 
cursions ;  for  they  becann;  so  attached  to  the  Indian 
mode  of  life,  that  they  lost  all  relish  for  their  for- 
mer hahits  and  native  homes.     Hence  they  derived 
the  title  of  Coureurs  de  Cois,   became  a  kind  of 
pedlars,  and  were  extremely  useful  to  the  merchants 
engaged  in  the  fur-trade,  who  ga\    them  the  neces- 
sary credit  to  proctu'd  on  their  commercial  under- 
takings.    Three  or  four  of  these  people  would  join 
their  stock,  put  their  property  into  a   birch-bark 
canoe  which  they  worked  themselves,  and  would 
then  (uther  accompany  the  natives  in  their  excur- 
sions, or  penetrate  at  once  into  the  country.     At 
length  thes(?  voyages  extended  to  twelve  or  fifteen 
months,  when  they  returned  with  rich  cargoes  of 
furs  and  followed  by  great  numbers  of  the  natives. 
During  the  short  time  requisite  to  settle  their  ac- 
counts with  the  merchants  and  procure  fresh  credit, 
they  generally  contrived  to  squander  away  all  their 
gains,  when  they  returned  to  renew  their  favourite 
mode  of  life,  their  views  being  answered  and  their 
labour  sufliciently  rewarded  by  indulging  them- 
selves in  extravagance  and  dissipation  during  the 
short  space  of  one  month  in  twelve  or  fifteen.    This 
indifference  about  amassing  property,  and  the  plea- 
sure of  living  free  from  all  restraint,  soon  brought 


140 


COUREURS  DE  BOIS. 


on  a  licentiousness  of  manners,  whicli  could  not  lone 
escape  the  vigilant  observation  of  the  missionaries, 
who  had  much  reason  to  complain  of  their  being  a 
disgrace  to  the  Christian  religion,  by  not  only  swerv- 
ing from  its  duties  themselves,  but  bringing  it  into 
disrepute  with  tiiose  of  the  natives  who  had  become 
converts  to  it,  and  consequently  obstructing  the 
great  object  to  which  these  pious  men  had  devoted 
their  lives.  They  therefore  exerted  their  influe  ice 
to  procure  the  suppression  of  these  people ;  and  ac- 
cordingly no  one  was  allowed  to  go  up  the  country 
to  traffic  with  the  Indians  without  a  license  from 
the  French  government."'^'  This  change  of  system 
was  not  at  first  attended  with  the  expected  benefits ; 
for  the  licenses  were  sold  in  most  instances  to  retired 
officers  or  their  widows,  who  again  disposed  of  them 
to  the  fur-merchants,  and  they  of  necessity  recalled 
to  their  service  the  Coureurs  de  Bois  as  their  agents : 
thus  matters  assumed,  though  by  a  somewhat  more 
circuitous  process,  the  same  aspect  as  before.  At 
ast  military  posts  were  established  at  the  confluence 
of  the  great  lakes,  which  repressed  the  excesses  of 
the  wood-runners,  and  afforded  protection  to  the 
trade ;  whilst  under  this  new  system,  a  body  of  re- 
spectable men,  usually  retired  officers,  introduced 
order  and  regularity;  in  the  traffic  with  the  natives, 
co-operated  with  the  cflbrts  of  the  missionaries,  and 
extended  their  intercourse  with  the  various  tribes 
to  the  distance  of  2500  miles,  from  the  most  civilized 
portion  of  the  colony  to  the  banks  of  the  Saskat- 
chewine  river  in  53"^  north  latitude,  and  longitude 


*  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie's  History  of  the  Fur-Trade,  prefixe<l 
to  his  Voyages,  pp.  1 — 'i. 


GROSSELIEZ  AND  GILLAM. 


141 


Id  not  long 
lissionaries, 
eir  being  a 
inly  swerv- 
ing it  into 
lad  become 
acting  the 
ad  devoted 
r  influence 
e;  and  ac- 
he country 
cense  from 
e  of  system 
d  benefits ; 
^s  to  retired 
sed  of  them 
ity  recalled 
eir  agents  : 
what  more 
)efore.  At 
confluence 
excesses  of 
ion  to  the 
body  of  re- 
introduced 
he  natives, 
laries,  and 
ious  tribes 
st  civilized 
he  Saskat- 
longitude 

rade,  prefixed 


i   I 


is. 


102^  west.*  Of  these  trading  commanders  two 
individuals  attempted  to  penetrate  to  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  but  appear  to  have  been  unsuccessful. 

The  discoveries  of  the  English  in  Hudson's  Bay, 
and  the  latest  attempts  of  Fox  and  James  to  reach 
the  Pacific  throu<,di  some  of  its  unexplored  channels, 
liave  been  sufficiently  enlarged  upon  in  a  former 
volume  ;t  but  though  unsuccessful  in  their  great 
design,  the  accounts  brought  home  regarding  the  rich 
furs  of  these  extreme  northern  shores  excited  the  at- 
tention of  Grosseliez,  an  enterprising  individual,  who 
undertook  a  voyage  to  survey  the  country,  and  laid 
before  the  French  government  a  proposal  for  a  com- 
mercial settlement  upon  the  coast.  The  minister, 
however,  rejected  it  as  visionary ;  and  Grosseliez, 
having  obtained  an  introduction  to  i\Ir  IMontagu 
the  English  resident  at  Paris,  was  introduced  to 
Prince  Rupert,  who,  struck  by  the  probable  advan- 
tages of  the  project,  ea<jerly  patronized  it.  By  his 
interest  with  the  English  king  he  obtained  the  grant 
of  a  ship  commanded  by  Captain  Zachariah  Gillam, 
who  sailed  with  Grosseliez  in  1668,  and,  penetrat- 
ing to  the  top  of  James'  Bay,  erected  Fort  Charles 
on  the  bank  of  the  Rupert  River.  In  the  succeed- 
ing year  Prince  Rupert,  ^^ith  seventeen  other  per- 
sons, were  incorporated  into  a  company,  and  ob- 
tained an  exclusive  right  to  establish  settlements 
and  carry  on  trade  in  Hudson's  Bay.  Their  char- 
ter recites,  that  those  adventurers  having  at  their 
own  great  cost  undertaken  an  expedition  to  Hud- 
son's Bay,  in  order  to  discover  a  new  passage  into  the 
South  Sea,  and  to  find  a  trade  for  furs,  minerals,  and 

•  Mackenzie's  Travels,  Gen.  Hist,  of  the  Fur-Trade,  {).  C. 
•f-  Polar  Seas  and  Regions,  chap.  vi. 


142 


HUDSON  S  BAY  COMPANY. 


other  commodities,  and  having  made  such  discove- 
ries as  encouraged  tliem  to  proceed  in  their  design, 
his  INIajesty  granted  to  tliem  and  their  heirs,  under 
the  name  of  "  the  Governor  and  Company  of  Ad- 
venturers trading  into  Hudson's  Bay,"  tlie  power 
of  holding  and  alienating  lands,  and  the  sole  right 
of  trade  in  Hudson's  Strait,  and  with  the  territories 
upon  the  coasts  of  the  same.  They  were  authorized 
to  fit  out  ships  of  war,  to  erect  forts,  make  reprisals, 
and  send  home  all  English  subjects  entering  th(^ 
bay  without  their  license,  and  to  declare  war  and 
make  peace  with  any  prince  or  people  not  Chris- 
tian.* 

Instituted  with  such  ample  powers,  and  at  first 
placed  under  the  management  of  enlightened  men, 
this  company  soon  arrived  at  considerable  prosperity. 
They  nave  indeed,  been  severely  censured  as  ex- 
hibiting little  zeal  to  promote  discovery,  and  for 
uniformly  opposing  every  attempt  on  the  part  of 
their  servants  to  solve  the  long-agitated  question  of 
a  north-west  passage.  There  appears  to  have  been 
much  personal  pique  in  these  accusations ;  and  the 
expedition  of  Knight,  in  1721,  fitted  out  on  the  most 
liberal  scale  at  the  company's  expense,  and  the  te- 
nor of  their  original  instructions  to  their  governor, 
certainly  prove  that  they  were  not  enemies  to  the 
cause  of  discovery;  whilst  the  failure  of  the  voyages 
of  Middleton  in  1742,  and  of  Captains  Moore  and 
Smith  in  1746,  must  at  length  have  convinced  the 
bitterest  oppo  'its  of  the  company,  that  if  they  had 
not  discovered  the  long-expected  passage  in  some  of 
the  straits  leading  into  Hud  Bay,  it  was  for 


Macpherson's  Annals  of  Commerce,  vol.  ii.  pp.  555,  55*>. 


i 


HEARNE. 


143 


cli  discove- 
leir  design, 
leirs,  under 
my  of  Ad- 

tlie  power 
B  sole  riglit 
B  territories 
I  authorized 
ke  reprisals, 
nteriug  the 
re  war  and 

not  Chris- 

and  at  first 
tened  men, 
3  prosperity, 
ured  as  ex- 
ry,  and  for 
the  part  of 
question  oi' 
have  been 
lis ;  and  the 
on  the  most 
and  the  te- 
r  governor. 
Inies  to  the 
the  voyages 
INIoore  and 
livinced  the 
|if  they  had 
in  some  of 
it  was  for 


555,  55H. 


the  very  sufficient  reason  that  such  did  not  exist. 
But  the  most  remarkable  refutation  of  these  allega- 
tions is  to  be  found  in  the  important  and  interest- 
ing journey  of  Hearne,  from  Prince  of  Wales'  Fort 
to  the  Northern  Ocean,  brought  to  a  successful  ter- 
mination in  1772j  which,  in  its  origin  and  progress, 
merits  our  particular  attention. 

The  native  Indians,  who  range  over  rather  than 
inhabit  the  large  tract  of  country  north  of  Church- 
ill River,  having  repeatedly  brought  specimens  of 
copper  ore  to  the  company's  factory,  it  was  plausi- 
bly conjectured  tliat  these  had  been  found  not  far 
from  the  British  settlements ;  and  as  the  savages 
affirmed  that  the  mines  were  not  very  distant  from 
a  large  river,  it  was  imagined,  most  erroneously  as 
was  proved  by  the  result,  that  this  stream  must 
empty  itself  into  Hudson's  Bay.  In  17^)8,  the  In- 
dians, wiio  came  to  trade  at  Prince  of  Wales'  Fort, 
brought  farther  accounts  of  this  river,  exhibiting  at 
the  same  time  samples  of  copper,  which  they  affirmed 
to  be  the  produce  of  a  mine  in  its  vicinity.  The  go- 
vernor now  resolved  to  despatch  an  intelligent  person 
across  the  continent  to  obtain  more  precise  informa- 
tion. Samuel  Ilearne  was  chosen  for  this  service,  a 
man  of  great  hardihood  and  sagacity,  bred  in  the  em- 
ployment of  the  company,  and  who,  without  preten- 
sions to  high  scientific  attainments,  po.ssessed  suffi- 
cient knowledge  to  enable  him  to  construct  a  chart 
of  the  country  through  which  he  travelled.  His 
instructions  directed  him  to  proceed  to  the  borders 
of  the  country  of  the  Athabasca  Indians,  where  it 
was  expected  he  w^ould  meet  with  a  river  repre- 
sented by  the  Indians  to  abound  with  copper  ore, 
and  to  be  so  far  to  the  north  that  in  the  middle  of 


144 


HEARNE  S  FIRST  JOURNEY  : 


siimmcT  the  sun  did  not  sot.  It  was  called  by  the 
natives  Neetha-san-san  Dazey,  or  the  Far  off  IMetal 
River ;  and  Mr  Hearne  was  directed  to  explore  its 
course  to  the  mouth,  where  he  was  to  determine 
the  latitude  and  longitude,  to  ascertain  whether  it 
was  navigable,  and  to  judge  of  the  practicability  of 
a  settlement.  He  was  enjoined  also  to  examine 
the  mines  alleged  to  exist  in  that  district,  the  na- 
ture of  the  soil  and  its  productions,  and  to  make 
every  inquiry  and  observation  towards  discovering 
the  north-west  passage.* 

On  the  (Uh  of  November  1 70w,  he  set  out  from 
Prince  of  Wales'  Fort,  Hudson's  Bay,  upon  this 
perilous  journey.  He  was  accompanied  by  two 
Englishmen  only, — Ilbester,  a  sailor,  and  Merri- 
man,  a  landsman;  by  two  of  the  Home-guard  South- 
ern Indians, — a  name  given  to  those  natives  residing 
as  servants  on  the  company's  plantation,  and  em- 
ployed in  hunting;  and  by  eight  Northern  Indians, 
under  the  command  of  Captain  Chawchinahaw  and 
Lieutenant  Nabyah.  He  was  provided  with  ammu- 
nition for  two  years,  some  necessary  iron  implements, 
a  few  knives,  tobacco,  and  other  useful  articles.  As 
to  his  personal  outfit,  his  stock  consisted  simply  of 
the  shirt  and  clothes  he  wore,  one  spare  coat,  a  pair 
of  drawers,  as  much  cloth  as  would  make  two  or 
three  pairs  of  Indian  stockings,  and  a  blanket  for  his 
bed.  "  The  nature  of  travelling  long  journeys,"  he 
observes,  "  in  these  countries  will  not  admit  of  car- 
rying even  the  most  common  article  of  clothing ;  so 
that  the  traveller  is  obliged  to  depend  on  the  dis- 
trict he  traverses  for  his  dress  as  well  as  his  suste- 


Hearne's  Journey,  Introduction,  j).  40. 

9 


i 

"A 


ITS  FAILURE. 


145 


led  by  the 
•  off  Metal 
explore  its 
determini" 
whether  it 
ioability  of 
0  examine 
't,  the  na- 
id  to  make 
iiscoveriiif; 

t  out  from 

upon  this 

^d  by  two 

md  Merri- 

lard  Soutli- 

^es  residing 

|i,  and  ein- 

n  Indians, 

nahaw  and 

ith  ammu- 

nplements, 

I'ticles.    As 

simply  of 
:!oat,  a  pair 
ike  two  or 
iket  for  his 
irneys/'  he 
mit  of  oar- 
othing;  so 
n  the  dis- 

his  suste- 


nance."  The  baseness  and  treachery  of  ihe  Indians, 
however,  soon  put  a  period  to  the  first  journey,  and 
the  desertion  of  Chawchinahaw  with  his  whole  es- 
cort, rendered  it  absolutely  necessary  for  the  little 
party  to  make  the  best  of  their  way  back  to  the 
fort,  where  they  arrived  on  the  8th  i,f  December, 
after  penetratinjr  only  200  miles  into  the  interior. 

It  was  now  determined  to  resume  the  expedition 
with  greater  precautions  against  failure.  The  In- 
dian women  who  accompanied  their  husbands  in 
the  first  journey  were  left  behind,  as  were  the  two 
Englishmen  who  had  been  of  little  service ;  and  in- 
stead of  the  treacherous  Chawchinahaw^,  Hearne  se- 
lected an  Indian  named  Connequeesee,  who  aflirmed 
he  was  acquainted  with  the  country,  having  once 
been  near  the  river,  the  discoveryo^  v.  hich  formed  one 
great  object  of  the  journey.  Attended  by  this  man, 
along  with  three  Northern  Indians  and  two  of  the 
Home-guard  nati^  s,  the  traveller  once  more  set  out, 
on  the  23d  February,  whilst  the  snow  was  so  deep 
on  the  top  of  the  ramparts  of  the  fort,  that  few  of 
the  cannon  could  be  seen.  After  undergoing  the 
severest  extremities  from  hunger  and  fatigue,  Mr 
Hearne  reached  in  August  the  river  Doobaunt,  in 
latitude  63''  10' north.  The  progress  thus  far,  how- 
ever, had  been  painful  beyond  measure,  owing  to 
the  difficulty  of  pushing  forward  through  a  wild 
unexplored  country,  intersected  with  rivers,  lakes, 
and  woods,  at  the  outset  thickly  covered  with 
snow ;  and  on  the  approach  of  the  warmer  months 
so  flooded  and  marshy,  as  to  render  travelling 
on  foot  inexpressibly  fatiguing.  To  add  to  this, 
the  voracity,  improvidence,  and  indolence  of  the 
Indians,  subjected  the  party  to  repeated  distress. 


J  46 


HEARNE  S  SECOND  JOURNEY : 


If  from  fishing  or  hunting  a  larger  supply  than 
usual  was  procured,  instead  of  using  it  with  mode- 
ration,  and  laying  up  a  store  for  future  necessities, 
all  was  devoured  by  the  savages,  who,  like  the  boa 
after  he  has  gorged  his  prey,  coiled  themselves  up, 
and  remained  in  a  state  of  sleepy  torpor  till  the  tall 
of  hunger  again  roused  them  to  activity. 

At  first  the  party  subsisted  without  diflficulty  on 
the  fish  which  abounded  in  the  lakes  and  rivers 
but  in  the  beginning  of  April  they  entirely  disap. 
peared ;  and  as  the  ''  goose  season,"  or  period  when 
the  geese,  swans,  ducks,  and  other  migratory  birds 
resort  to  these  latitudes  was  yet  distant,  they  began 
to  suffer  grievously  from  want  of  provisions.  Oc 
casionally  they  were  relieved  by  killing  a  few  deer 
or  musk-oxen  ;  but  the  ground  and  the  brushwood 
were  so  saturated  with  moisture  from  the  meltini; 
of  the  snow,  that  to  kindle  a  fire  was  impossible: 
with  their  clothes  drenched  in  rain,  and  their  spi. 
rits  depressed,  they  were  compelled  to  eat  their  meat 
raw, — a  necessity  grievous  at  all  times,  but  in  the 
case  of  the  flesh  of  the  musk-ox,  which  is  rank 
tough,  and  strongly  impregnated  with  the  sickeniu. 
substance  from  which  it  derives  its  name,  peculi- 
arly  repulsive  and  unwholesome.* 

The  simple  and  modest  manner  in  which  these  se. 
vere  sufferings  are  described  by  Hearne  is  peculiarly 
striking.  "  To  record,"  says  he,  "  in  detail  eaoli 
day's  fare  since  the  commencement  of  this  journey 
would  be  little  more  than  a  dull  repetition  of  tlit 
same  occurrences.  A  sufficient  idea  of  it  may  be  give' 
in  a  few  words,  by  observing,  that  it  may  justly 

*  Hearne's  Journey,  p.  31. 


I 


\r  : 


HIS  SKVERE  SUFFERINGS. 


h; 


supply  than 
;  with  mode, 
e  necessities, 
like  the  boa 
lemselves  up, 
ir  till  the  call 

difficulty  oil 
I  and  rivers 
titirely  disap. 
•  period  wluii 
gratory  birck 
it,  they  began 
visions.  Oi. 
ng  a  few  dew 
le  brushwood 
I  the  meJtiui; 
s  impossible: 
nd  their  spl- 
at their  meat 
s,  but  in  the 
hich  is  rank, 
the  sickening 
lame^  peculi- 

lich  these  st. 
is  peculiarly 
u  detail  eacl: 
this  journey 
etition  of  tlit 
may  be  give' 
t  may  justh 


be  said  to  have  been  either  all  feasting  or  all  fa- 
mine ;  sometimes  we  had  too  mucli,  seldom  just 
enough,  frequently  too  little,  and  often  none  at  all. 
It  will  be  only  necessary  to  say,   that  we  fasted 
many  times  two  whob'  days  and  nights,  twice  up- 
wards of  three  days,  and  once,  while  at  Shenanhee, 
n(>ar  seven  days,  during  which   we  tasted  not  a 
mouthful  of  any  thing,  except  a  few  cranberries, 
water,  scraps   of  old  leather,   and  burnt   bones." 
On  these  pressing  occasions  Hearne  often  saw  the 
Indians  examine  their  wardrobe,  which  consisted 
chiefly  of  skin  clothing,  considering  attentively  what 
part  could  best  be  spared,  when  sometimes  a  piece 
of  half-rotten  deer-skin,  and  at  others  a  pair  of  old 
shoes,  would  be  sacrificed  to  alleviate  extreme  hun- 
ger.    '''None  of  our  natural  wants,"  he  observes, 
"  if  we  except  thirst,  are  so  distressing  or  hard  to 
tndure  as  hunger,  and  in  wandering  situations  like 
that  which  I  now  experienced,  the  hardship  is  great- 
ly aggravated  by  the  uncertainty  with  regard  to  its 
duration,  and  the  means  most  proper  to  be  used  to 
remove  it,  as  well  as  by  the  labour  and  fatigue  we 
must  necessarily  undergo  for  that  purpose,  and  the 
disappointments  which  too  frequently  frustrated  our 
best  concerted  plans  and  most  strenuous  exertions. 
It  not  only  enfeebles  the  body,  but  depresses  the 
spirits,  in  spite  of  every  eifort  to  prevent  it.     Be- 
sides which,  for  want  of  action,  the  stomach  so  far 
loses  its  digestive  powers,  that,  after  long  fasting,  it 
resumc^s  its  office  with  pain  and  reluctance.     Dur- 
ing this  journey  I  have  too  IVequently  experienced 
tlie  dreadful  effects  of  this  calamity,  and  more  than 
once  been  reduced  to  so  low  a  state  by  hunger  and 
fatigue,  that  wlien  Providence  threw  any  thing  in 


I 


I4« 


KETURN  FROM  CATIIAWIIACIIAGA. 


my  way,  my  stomach  has  been  scarcely  able  to  re. 
tain  more  than  two  or  three  ounces  without  produc- 
ing  the  most  oppressive  pain."* 

On  30th  June,  they  arrived  at  a  small  river  calld 
Cathawhachaga,  which  empties  itself  into  Wiiit( 
Snow  Lake,  in  64°  north  latitude.  Here,  as  tin 
guide  declared  they  could  not  that  summer  reach 
the  Coppermine  River,  Hearne  determined  to  pass 
the  winter,  with  the  intention  of  pushing  on  to  his 
destination  in  1771  •  '^l^^'y  accordingly  forsook  their 
northward  route,  and  taking  a  westerly  course  wrrt 
joined  in  a  few  days  by  many  troops  of  wanderiiii; 
Indians ;  so  that  by  the  3()th  July  they  mustered 
about  seventy  tents,  containing  nearly  (JOO  souls. 
and  on  moving  in  the  morning  the  whole  ground 
seemed  alive  with  men,  women,  children,  and  dof;s. 
The  deer  were  so  plenty  that,  though  lately  five  or 
six  individuals  had  almost  perished  from  huufrer. 
this  numerous  body  supported  themselves  with  great 
ease,  and  often  killed  their  game  for  the  skins,  leav- 
ing the  carcass  to  be  devoured  by  the  foxes.t  In 
this  manner,  engaged  alternately  in  hunting  and 
fishing,  making  observations  on  the  country,  and 
studying  the  extraordinary  manners  of  his  associates, 
the  English  traveller  was  preparing  for  his  winter 
sojourn,  when  an  accident  rendered  his  quadrant 
useless,  and  compelled  him,  on  13tli  August,  to  set 
out  on  his  return  to  the  fort. 

The  hardships  he  endured  on  his  route  homeward 
were  various  and  accumulated :  He  was  plundered 
by  the  Northern  Indians,  who,  adding  insult  to 
injury,   entered   his   tent,   smoked  a  pipe   which 


*  Hearne's  Journey,  p.  '6'i. 


t  Ibid.  p.  40. 


GA. 


IIEARNK  MKKTS  iMATtiNABBKE. 


141) 


able  to  rc- 
lout  produc- 

I  river  calUd 

into  Whit( 

lere,  as  the 

mmer  reach 

ined  to  pass 

ing  on  to  liis 

forsook  their 

course  were 

f  wanderint: 

ey  mustered 

y  600  souls. 

rhole  ground 

n,  and  dogs. 

lately  five  or 

rom  hunger. 

es  with  great 

skins,  leav- 

foxes.t     III 

lunting  and 

ountry,  and 

lis  associates. 

►r  his  winter 

is  quadrant 

ugustj  to  set 

e  homeward 
IS  plundered 
ng  insult  to 

pipe   wliicli 

id.  p.  40. 


they  filled  with  the  white  man's  tobacco,  asked  to 
see  his  luggage,  and  without  waiting  for  an  answer 
turned  the  bag  inside  out,  and  spread  every  article 
on  the  ground.  The  work  of  appropriation  w^as 
equally  rapid,  and  the  empty  bag  was  flung  to  the 
owner ;  but  a  fit  of  compunction  seizing  them,  they 
restored  a  knife,  an  awl,  and  a  needle.  On  begging 
hard  for  his  razors,  they  consented  to  give  up  one, 
and  added  enough  of  soap  to  shave  him  during  the 
remainder  of  his  journey,  making  him  understand, 
that  the  surrender  of  these  articles  called  for  his 
warmest  gratitude. 

As  the  cold  weather  approached,  the  party  thus 
plundered  suffered  grievously  from  want  of  that 
warm  deer,  skin  clothing  used  by  the  Indians  at  this 
season.  A  dress  of  this  kind  is  rather  costly,  requiring 
the  prime  parts  of  from  eight  to  eleven  skins.  These 
Ilearne  at  last  managed  to  collect ;  but  as  the  In- 
dian women  alone  could  prepare  them,  he  was  com- 
pelled to  carry  this  load  along  with  him  from  day  to 
day,  earnestly  begging  the  natives  at  each  successive 
resting-place  to  permit  their  wives  to  dress  his  skins, 
lie  met,  however,  with  a  surly  and  uniform  refusal ; 
and  at  last,  after  bearing  the  burden  for  several 
weeks,  was  forced  to  throw  it  off,  and  sustain  the 
cold  as  he  best  could,  without  either  skhi-clothing  or 
snow^-shoes.  When  continuing  their  course  in  this 
forlorn  condition  to  the  south-east,  they  met  with 
Captain  Matonabbee,  a  powerful  and  intelligent 
chief,  who  was  then  on  his  way  to  Prince  of  Wales' 
Fort  with  furs  and  other  articles  of  trade.  It  w^as 
this  person  who  brought  the  accounts  of  the  Copper- 
mine River,  which  induced  the  company  to  fit  out  the 
expedition,  and  he  was  naturally  interested  in  its 


ir)() 


JIATOXABBEE  S  ADVICE. 


success.  He  evinced  tlie  utmost  activity  in  reliev. 
ing  their  wants,  furnished  them  with  a  warm  suit 
of  otter  and  otlier  skins ;  and,  not  being  able  to  pro. 
vide  tliem  witli  snow-shoes,  directed  them  to  a  small 
range  of  woods,  where  tliey  found  materials  for  both 
shoes  and  sledges.  IMatonabbee  then  treated  tiio 
party  to  a  feast,  and  took  occasion  in  his  con  versa, 
tion  with  Hearne  to  explain  the  causes  of  his  fai. 
lure,  and  to  offer  his  assistance  in  a  third  expedition. 
He  attributed  all  their  misfortunes  to  the  miscon- 
duct of  the  guide,  and  to  their  having  no  wonitii 
witli  them.  "  In  an  expedition  of  this  kind,"  said 
lie,  "  when  all  the  men  are  so  heavily  laden  that 
they  can  neither  hunt  nor  travel  to  any  considera. 
ble  distance,  in  case  they  meet  with  success  in  hunt, 
ing,  who  is  to  carry  the  produce  of  their  labour  r 
Women  were  made  for  labour;  one  of  them  can 
carry  or  haul  as  much  as  two  men  can  do.  They 
also  pitch  our  tents,  make  and  mend  our  cloth, 
ing,  keep  us  warm  at  night ;  and  in  fact  there  is  no 
such  thing  as  travelling  any  considerable  distance,  or 
for  any  length  of  time,  in  this  country  without  them ; 
and  yet,  though  they  do  every  thing,  they  are  main- 
tained at  a  trifling  expense  ;  for,  as  they  always  act 
the  cook,  the  very  licking  of  their  fingers  in  scarce 
times  is  sufficient  for  their  subsistence."'^  Assisted 
by  this  friendly  chief,  the  English  traveller  again  set 
forward,  and  after  experiencing  an  intense  degree  of 
cold,  by  which  the  favourite  dog  in  his  sledge  was 
frozen  to  death,  he  reached  the  fort  on  25tli  Novem. 
ber,  having  been  absent  eight  months  and  twenty- 
two  days.     3Iatonabbee  arrived  a  few  days  after. 


Hearne's  Journey,  p.  55. 


HKAP.NE  S  THIRD  JOURNEY. 


151 


ity  ill  relit'v. 
a  warm  suit 
g  able  to  pro. 
em  to  a  small 
rials  for  both 

treated  tiit 
bis  conversa- 
es  of  his  fai. 
d  expedition. 
)  the  misc'oii. 
ig  no  -Nvonieii 
s  kind,"  said 
ly  laden  that 
ly  considera. 
:cess  in  hum. 
heir  labour: 
of  them  can 
n  do.  They 
d  our  cloth, 
t  there  is  no 
e  distance,  or 
thout  them ; 
ey  are  maiii- 
y  always  act 
ters  in  scarce 

■"     Assisted 

ler  again  set 
ise  degree  of 

sledge  was 
I) til  Novem- 

iid  twenty- 
lays  after. 


Though  twice  compelled  to  return,  Ilearne,  whose 
spirit  was  not  to  \h)  overcome  by  fatigue  or  disappoint- 
nwnt,  offered  liis  services  to  proceed  on  a  third  jour- 
ney, which  was  ultimately  crowned  with  success. 
For  tliis  he  engaged  JMatonabbee  as  guide,  and  de- 
clined taking  any  Home-guard  Indians.  Their  place, 
however,  was  occupied,  according  to  the  principles 
already  laid  down,  by  seven  of  IMatonabbee's  wives, 
who,  by  the  assistance  they  afforded,  diH  no  dis- 
paragement to  the  singular  picture  of  female  acti- 
vity wliich  he  had  drawn.  They  set  out  on  the  Jtb 
of  December,  and  notwithstanding  frequent  priva- 
tions, want  of  food,  and  intense  cold,  their  suffer- 
ings were  not  so  aggravated  as  in  the  former  at- 
tempts. The  country  through  which  they  passed 
towards  the  west  was  wild  and  barren,  occasionallv 
covered  with  thick  shrubby  woods  of  stunted  pine 
and  dwarf  juniper,  studded  with  frequent  lakes 
and  swamps  whose  sides  were  fringed  with  willows. 
Through  this  ground  they  travelled  in  high  spirits, 
but  rather  on  short  commons,  owing  to  the  scarcity 
of  deer  and  the  improvidence  of  the  Indians,  who 
consumed  every  thing  in  the  store  during  the  first 
days  of  their  marcli,  trusting  to  find  a  stock  of  provi- 
sions wiiich  they  had  hid  in  a  certain  spot  on  their 
way  to  the  fort.  On  reaching  the  place,  however, 
they  discovered  that  tlie  provisions  had  been  carried 
off;  and  the  equanimity  with  which  the  Indians 
bore  the  disappointment,  and  travelled  forward  un- 
der the  conjoined  miseries  of  hunger  and  fatigue, 
was  very  striking.  At  last  they  succeeded  in  kill- 
ing a  few  deer,  and  halted  to  take  some  refresh- 
ment. For  a  whole  day  they  never  ceased  eating, 
and  an  additional  repast  on  two  large  buck-deer, 


152 


VORACITY  OF  TIIR  GUIDES. 


whicfi  they  killt'd  a  ft'vv  days  after,  at  last  fairly 
overcame  Captain  Matonabbee,  who,  after  devour, 
ing  at  one  sitting  as  mueh  as  would  have  satisfied 
six  moderate  men,  seemed  somewhat  unreasonably 
astonished  to  find  himself  indisposed. 

Having  recovered  from  the  effects  of  this  surfeit, 
they  proceeded  from  Island  Lake  towards  tlie  main 
branch  of  the  Cathawhachaga,  which  they  crossed. 
and  directing  their  course  by  Partridges  Lake  and 
Snow  Bird  Lake,  arrived  on  the  2d  IMarch  at  a 
large  tent  of  Northern  Indians,  not  far  from  tlh 
Doobaunt  Whoie  River.  Although  these  peoplt 
had  remained  in  the  same  spot  since  the  beginiiiii:; 
of  winter,  they  found  a  plentiful  subsistence  In 
catching  deer  in  a  pound.  Their  mode  of  acconi. 
plishing  this  is  to  select  a  well-frequented  deor- 
path,  and  enclose  with  a  strong  fence  of  twisted 
trees  and  brushwood  a  spf.ce  about  a  mile  in  circum- 
ference, and  sometim  vs  more.  The  entrance  of  tin 
pound  is  not  larger  than  a  commo^i  gate,  and  its 
inside  is  crowded  with  innumerable  small  hedges, 
in  the  openings  of  which  are  fixed  snares  of  stronj.' 
well -twisted  thongs.  Cue  end  is  generally  fastened 
to  a  growing  tree;  and  as  all  the  wood  and  jungle 
within  the  enclosure  is  left  standing,  its  interior 
forms  a  complete  labyrinth.  On  each  side  of  the 
door,  a  line  of  small  trees,  stuck  up  in  the  sno\v 
fifteen  or  twenty  yards  apart,  form  two  sides  of  an 
acute  angle,  widening  gradually  fror^  tiie  entrance, 
from  which  they  sometimes  extenc^  two  or  three 
miles.  Between  these  rows  of  Irushwood  runs  the 
path  frequented  by  the  (\eer.  When  all  things  are 
prepared,  tiie  Indians  take  their  station  on  some 
eminence  commanding  a  prospect  of  this  path,  and 


CATCIIINO  DKKR  IN  A  POUND 


l.hi 


it  last  fairly  5^ 

after  devour.  ^ 

liave  satisfied  / 

unreasonably  \ 


'  this  surfeit, 

rds  the  main 

they  crossed, 

ge  Lake  uiid 

IMarch  at  a 

far  from  tlii 

these   peopl) 

he  beginning 

bsistenoe  hv 

ie  of  acconi. 

lented  deer. 

■e  of  twisted 

le  in  circuni. 

ranee  of  the 

ate,  and  its 

nail  hed^^es, 

es  of  struiiii 

illy  fastened 

and  jungle 

its  interior 

side  of  tile 

n  the  snow 

sides  of  an 

le  entrance, 

C'  three 

c»d  runs  the 

things  are 

n  on  some 

i  path,  and 


the  moment  any  deer  are  seen  going  that  way,  the 
whole  encampment,  men,  women,  and  children, 
steal  under  cover  of  the  woods  till  they  get  behind 
them.  TiL'y  then  show  themselves  in  the  open 
ground,  and,  drawing  up  in  the  form  of  a  cn'scent, 
advance  with  shouts.  The  deer  finding  themselves 
pursued,  and  at  the  same  time  imagining  the  rows 
of  brushy  poles  to  be  people  stationed  to  prevent 
their  passing  on  either  side,  run  straight  forward 
till  they  get  into  the  pound.  The  Indians  instantly 
close  in,  block  up  the  entrance,  and  whilst  the  wo- 
men and  children  run  round  the  outside  to  prevent 
them  from  breaking  or  leaping  the  fence,  the  men 
enter  with  their  spears  and  bows,  and  speedily  de- 
spatch such  as  are  caught  in  the  snares  or  are  run- 
ning loose.'^" 

On  the  Hth  of  April,  they  reached  an  island  in 
a  small  lake  named  Thelewey-aza-weth,  and  pitch- 
ed their  tent ;  afid  as  the  deer  were  numerous,  and 
the  party,  which  had  been  joined  by  various  wan- 
dering Indians,  now  amounted  to  seventy  persons, 
they  determined  to  remain  for  some  time,  and  make 
preparations  for  their  enterprise  in  the  ensuing  sum- 
mer. They  were  busily  employed  during  their  in- 
tervals from  hunting,  in  providing  staves  of  birch 
about  one  and  a  quarter  inch  square  and  seven  or 
eight  feet  long,  wliich  served  for  tent-poles  all  the 
summer,  and  were  converted  into  snow-shoes  in 
winter.  Birch-rind,  with  timbers  and  other  wood 
for  canoes,  formed  also  objects  of  attention ;  and  as 
Clowey,  the  place  fixed  upon  for  building  their 
canoes,  was  still  many  miles  distant,  all  the  wood 
was  reduced  to  its  proper  size  to  make  it  light  for 

*  Hearne's  Journey,  p.  JB — UO. 


I 


154 


NORTHERN  INDIAN  '.VOMEN 


carriage.  At  this  place  IMatonabbee  solaced  himself 
by  purchasing  from  some  Northen  Indians  a  lother 
wife,  who  for  size  and  sinews  rpi^ht  have  shamed  a 
grenadier.  ^'  Take  them  in  a  body,"  says  Hearne. 
"  and  the  Indian  women  are  as  destitute  of  real 
beauty  as  those  of  any  nation  I  ever  saw,  althougli 
there  are  some  few  of  them  when  young  who  an 
tolerable;  but  the  care  of  a  family,  added  to  their 
constant  hard  labour,  soon  make  the  most  b'  autiful 
amongst  them  look  old  and  wrinkled,  even  befon 
they  are  thirty,  and  several  of  the  more  ordinary  ones 
at  that  age  are  perfect  antidotes  to  the  tender  passion, 
Ask  a  Northern  Indian  what  is  beauty?  he  will 
answer,  a  broad  flat  face,  small  eyes,  high  cheek- 
bones, three  or  four  broad  black  lines  across  each 
cheek,  a  low  forehead,  a  large  broad  chin,  a  hook 
nose,  and  a  tawny  hide.  These  beauties  are  greatly 
heightened,  or  at  least  rendered  more  valuable,  il 
the  possessor  is  capable  of  dressing  all  kinds  of  skins, 
and  able  to  carry  eight  or  ten  stone  in  summer,  and 
to  haul  a  far  greater  weight  in  winter.  Such  and 
similar  accoLnplishmenis  are  all  that  are  sought 
after  or  expected  in  an  Indian  Northern  woman. 
As  to  their  temper,  it  is  of  little  consequence;  for 
the  men  have  a  wonderful  facility  in  making  the 
most  stubborn  comply  with  as  much  alacrity  as 
could  be  expected  from  those  of  the  mildest  and 
most  obliging  turn  of  mind."  ' 

Before  starting  from  this  station,  Matonabbee  took 
tlie  precaution  of  sending  in  advance  a  small  party 
with  the  wood  and  birch-rind  ;  they  were  directed 
to  press  forward  to  Clowey,  a  lake  near  the  barren 
ground,   and  there   build   the   boat,    to   be   ready 

*  Hearne's  Journej^,  pp.  8"J,  90. 


t'., 


TREATED  WITH  CRUELTY. 


153 


ced  himself 
ans  aiother 
e  sliamed  a 
ys  Hearne. 
:ute  of  real 
V,  althougli 
ng  who  arc 
[ed  to  their 
st  b'jautiful 
even  before 
dinar V  ones 

■ 

der  passion. 
y?  lie  will 
ligh  cheek- 
across  each 
'liin^  a  hook 
5  are  greatly 
valuable,  if 
ids  of  skins, 
mmer,  and 
Such  and 
are  sought 
rn  woman, 
uence ;  for 
naking  the 
alacritv  as 
lildest  and 

lalibee  took 

5111  all  party 

re  directed 

the  barren 

be   readv 


1 


\':. 


upon  their  arrival.  When  the  journey  was  about 
to  be  resumed,  one  of  the  women  was  taken  in  la- 
bour. The  moment  the  poor  creature  was  delivered, 
"  which,"  says  Hearne,  "  was  not  till  slie  had  suf- 
fered  a  severe  labour  of  fifty-two  hours,"  the  signal 
was  made  for  setting  forward  ;  the  mother  took  her 
infant  on  her  back,  and  walked  with  the  rest ;  and 
though  another  person  had  the  humanity  to  haul 
her  sledge  for  one  day  only,  she  was  obliged  to 
carry  a  considerable  load  in  addition  to  her  little 
one,  and  was  compelled  frequently  to  wade  knee- 
deep  in  water  and  wet  snow.  Amidst  all  this,  her 
looks,  pale  and  emaciated,  and  the  moans  v/hich 
burst  from  her,  sulficiently  proved  the  intolerable 
pain  she  endured,  but  produced  no  effect  upon  the 
hard  hearts  of  her  husband  and  his  companions. 
When  an  Indian  woman  is  taken  in  labour,  a  small 
tent  is  erected  for  her,  at  such  a  distance  from  the 
encampment  that  her  cries  cannot  be  heard,  and  the 
other  women  are  her  attendants,  no  male  except 
children  in  arms  ever  offering  to  approach  ;  and 
even  in  the  most  critical  cases  no  assistance  is  ever 
given, — a  conduct  arising  from  the  opinion  that 
nature  is  sufficient  to  perform  all  that  is  necessary. 
When  Hearne  informed  them  of  the  assistance  de- 
x'ived  by  European  women  from  the  skill  and  at- 
tention of  regular  practitioners,  their  answer  was 
ironical  and  characteristic.  "  No  doubt,"  said  they, 
"  the  many  hump-backs,  bandy  legs,  and  other  de- 
formities so  common  amongst  you  English,  are 
owing  to  the  great  skill  of  the  persons  who  assisted 
in  bringing  them  into  the  world,  and  to  the  extra- 
ordinary care  of  their  nurses  afterwards."'- 

*  Ileanie's  Journey,  [).  'J3. 


156 


ARRIVAL  AT  CLOWEY 


In  eleven  days  tliey  travelled  a  distance  of  eighty- 
five  miles,  and  on  3d  May  arrived  at  Clowey, 
where  they  were  joined  by  some  strange  Indians, 
and  commenced  the  important  business  of  building 
their  canoes.  The  party  sent  ahead  for  this  pur. 
pose  arrived  only  two  days  before,  and  had  made 
no  progress  in  joining  the  timbers  they  had  carried 
along  with  them.  The  whole  tools  used  by  an  In- 
dian in  this  operation,  in  making  snow-shoes  and 
all  other  kinds  of  wood- work,  are  a  hatchet,  a  knife, 
a  file,  and  an  awl ;  but  in  the  use  of  these  they  are 
very  dexterous.  In  shape,  their  canoes  bear  some 
resemblance  to  a  weaver's  shuttle,  having  flat-bot- 
toms,  with  straight  upright  sides,  and  sharp  at 
each  end.  The  stern  is  the  widest  part,  being  con- 
structed  for  the  reception  of  the  baggage ;  and  occa- 
sionally it  admits  a  second  person,  who  lies  at  fuli 
length  in  the  bottom  of  the  little  vessel,  which  sel- 
dom exceeds  twelve  or  thirteen  feet  in  length,  and 
about  twenty  inches  or  two  feet  in  breadth  at  the 
widest  part.  The  forepart  is  unnecessarily  long 
and  narrow,  and  covered  with  birch-bark,  which 
adds  to  the  weight  without  contributing  to  the  bur- 
den of  the  canoe.  The  Indians,  for  the  most  part, 
employ  a  single  paddle ;  double  ones  like  those  of 
the  Esquimaux  are  seldom  used  unless  by  hunters, 
who  lie  in  ambush  for  the  purpose  of  killing  deer  as 
they  cross  rivers  and  narrow  lakes.  Upon  the  whole, 
their  vessels,  though  formed  of  the  same  materials 
as  those  of  the  Southern  Indians,  are  much  smaller 
and  lighter;  and,  from  the  extreme  simplicity  of 
build,  are  the  best  that  could  be  contrived  for  the 
necessities  of  these  poor  savages,  who  are  frequently 
obliged  to  carry  them   upon   their  back  100  and 


M 


JOINED  BY  MANY  INDIANS. 


157 


('  of  eighty- 
it  Clowey, 
ge  Indians, 
of  building 
r  this  pur- 
had  made 
had  carried 
L  by  an  In- 
-shoes  and 
let,  a  knife, 
?se  they  are 
bear  some 
ng  flat-bot- 
d   sharp  at 
being  eon- 
;  and  occa- 
lies  at  fuii 
^  which  sel- 
ength,  and 
idth  at  the 
sarily  long 
ark,  whicli 
to  the  bur- 
most  part, 
ke  those  of 
)y  hunters, 
ing  deer  as 
the  whole, 
materials 
ch  smaller 
nplicity  of 
^ed  for  the 
frequently 
100  and 


sometimes  150  miles,  without  having  occasion  to 
launch  them. 

At  (Mowey  the  expedition  was  joined  by  nearly 
200  Indians  from  various  quarters,  most  of  whom 
built  canoes  there  ;  and  on  the  23d  INIay,  Mr  Hearne 
and  IMatonabboe,  whose  character  and  consequence 
effectually  protected  the  white  man  from  plunder, 
[)roceeded  northward.  For  some  time  they  met  with 
no  distresses,  except  those  occasioned  by  the  intense 
cold,  which  had  been  preceded  by  thunder-storms 
and  torrents  of  rain.  IMisfortune,  however,  now 
attacked  JMatonabbee  on  the  tender  side  of  his  eight 
wives,  the  handsomest  of  whom  eloped  in  the  night, 
accompanied  by  another  woman.  Both  having  been 
carried  off  by  force,  it  was  suspected  they  had  fled 
to  the  eastward  with  the  plan  of  rejoining  their 
former  husbands.  Scai'ce  had  the  savage  polyga- 
mist  recovered  from  this  blow,  when  he  experi- 
enced a  fresh  mortification  :  An  Indian  of  great 
strength,  from  whom  IMatonabbee  a  short  time  be- 
fore had  purchased  a  stout,  and  therefore  valuable 
wife,  insisted  on  taking  her  back,  unless  he  instantly 
surrendered  a  certain  quantity  of  ammunition,  a 
kettle,  some  pieces  of  iron,  and  other  articles.  The 
hardship  of  this  case  aro-"  from  an  extraordinary 
custom,  by  which  the  men  are  permitted  to  wrestle 
for  any  woman  to  whom  they  are  attached,  the  vic- 
torious party  carrying  off  the  prize.  It  is  for  this 
reason  that  the  greatest  emulation  prevails  in  all 
athletic  exercises  among  the  young  Indians ;  and 
the  children  are  perpetually  seen  trying  their  powers 
in  wrestling,  under  the  idea  that  this  is  the  edu- 
cation which  will  chiefly  benefit  them  when  they 
grow  up.     A  weak  man  seldom  long  retains  a  wife 


iri8 


MATONABBEE  S  PRIDE. 


whose  services  another  wants  ;  for  when  the  help, 
mates  of  an  able-bodied  savage  are  too  heavily  laden 
with  furs  or  provisions,  he  makes  no  scruple  of 
seizinjj  the  spouse  of  his  weaker  neighbour,   and 
transferring  part  of  the  burden  to  her  back  ;  whilst, 
if  the  injured  party  cannot  challenge  the  aggressor 
to  a  wrestling-matcli,  he  must  not  otherwise  com- 
plain.   The  distress,  therefore,  of  IMatonabbee  upon 
this  occasion  may  be  easily  accounted  for,  as  he  was 
wounded  in  his  pride  and  in  his  property,  if  not  in 
his  affections.     But  a  personal  contest  was  out  of 
the  question,  and  he  was  obliged  to  purchase  his 
favourite  over  again,  by  yielding  up  all  that  was  de- 
manded by  his  antagonist.     This  affair  had  nearly 
proved  a  serious  obstacle  to  the  expedition ;  for  so 
bitterly  did  the  chief  resent  the  affront,  entertaining 
the  highest  ideas  of  his  personal  consequence,  that  he 
had  resolved,  like  a  Coriolanus  of  the  New  World, 
to  renounce  all  farther  alliance  with  his  countrymen 
and  join  the  Athabasca  Indians,  among  whom  he 
had  formerly  resided.     But  Hearne  strenuously  op- 
|)0sed  this  project,  and  at  last  succeeded  in  dissuad- 
ing him  from  it.* 

Having  agreed  to  proceed,  IMatonabbee,  for  the 
better  prosecution  of  the  ejiterprise,  determined  to 
make  some  new  arrangements :  He  selected  his  two 
youngest  wives,  who  were  unencumbered  with  chil- 
dren, as  alone  worthy  to  accompany  him,  whilst  the 
remainder,  with  all  their  luggage  and  a  considerable 
number  of  the  men,  were  commanded  to  await  tlie 
return  of  the  party  from  the  Coppermine  River.  This 
change  of  plan,  however,  was  not  carried  througli 


*  Hearne's  Journey,  pp.  Ill,  112. 


THE  PARTY  CROSS  THE  ARCTIC  CIRCLE. 


ir>9 


I  the  help- 
ivily  laden 
scruple  of 
bour,  and 
k  ;  whilst, 
t»  aggressor 
•wise  com- 
ibbee  upon 
,  as  he  was 
r,  if  not  in 
was  out  of 
irchase  his 
lat  was  de- 
had  nearly 
ion ;  for  so 
ntertaining 
ice,  that  he 
lew  World, 
ountrymen 
whom  he 
luously  op- 
u  dissuad- 

■ie,  for  the 
rmined  to 
ed  his  two 
wath  chil- 
whilst  the 
msiderable 
await  the 
iver.  This 
d  through 


It 


without  diftieulty.  Wlien  tiie  hour  of  separation 
came,  and  Matonabbee  and  Ilearne  set  out  in  the 
evening  of  .'ilst  ^lay,  a  low  murmur  of  lamentation 
proceeded  from  the  tents  of  the  women  who  were  left 
i)ehind,  which,  running  through  all  the  notes  of  in- 
creasing grief,  at  last  burst  into  a  loud  yell.  This 
continued  as  long  as  the  party  were  in  sight ;  nor 
was  it  without  much  angry  expostulation  that  some 
of  them  were  prevented  from  following  their  hus- 
bands. The  Indians,  however,  regarded  all  this, 
which  deeply  affected  their  European  associate,  with 
indifference,  walking  forward  without  casting  be- 
hind them  a  single  look  or  word  of  sympatjiy,  and 
joyfully  congratulating  themselves  on  getting  rid  of 
the  women,  dogs,  ciiildren,  and  other  encumbrances, 
which  added  so  greatly  to  the  toil  of  the  journej\ 
One  article  they  all  carried,  although  to  Hearne  it 
appeared  unnecessary,  considering  the  expedition  to 
l)e  pacific, — this  was  a  target  of  thin  boards  two 
feet  broad  and  about  three  feet  long.  On  inquir- 
ing for  what  purpose  these  shields  were  to  be  used, 
lie  discovered  that  the  main  consideration  which 
reconciled  the  Indians  to  this  expedition  was  the 
hope  of  attacking  and  murdering  the  Esquimaux 
who  frequented  the  Coppermine  River,  between 
whom  and  the  other  Indian  tribes  there  had  long 
existed  a  deadly  enmity.  All  the  arguments  em- 
ployed by  Hearne  were  insufficient  to  dissuade  them 
from  these  hostile  intentions. 

The  party  having  crossed  the  arctic  circle  ar- 
rived at  Cogead  Lake,  which  they  found  frozen 
over ;  so  that  they  traversed  its  creeks  and  bays  with- 
out the  aid  of  their  canoes.  Thence  they  directed 
their  course  due  north  till  thev  met  with  a  branch 


1(J() 


COPPER  INDIANS. 


of   the   Congecathawhacliaga  River,   where  some 
Copper  Indians  received  tliem  with  great  kindness, 
and  readily  sent  all  tlieir  canoes  to  their  assistance, 
— a  piece  of  courtesy  particularly  seasonable,  as  the 
ice  had  now  broken  up.     To  these  Indians  Hearne 
explained  the  object  of  his  journey,  and  his  guide 
being  personally  known  to  them  they  treated  the 
party,  which  consisted  of  150  persons,  with  distin- 
guished honour; — a  feast  was  given,  the  English 
traveller  smoked  with  them  his  calumet  of  peace,  and 
their  chiefs  expressed  the  greatest  anxiety  that  a  Eu- 
ropean settlement  should  be  established  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  Coppermine  River.    They  acknow- 
ledged they  had  never  found  the  sea  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  free  from  ice ;  but  with  singular  sim- 
plicity seemed  to  consider  this  a  very  trifling  objec- 
tion, observing,  that  the  water  was  always  so  smooth 
between  the  ice  and  the  shore,  that  even  small  boats 
could  sail  there  with  great  ease  ;  and  inferring,  that 
what  a  canoe  could  do,  a  large  ship  must  be  sure 
to  accomplish.     As  Hearne  was  the  first  white  man 
they  had  seen,  he  was  surrounded  by  numbers,  who 
examined  him  with  the  utmost  minuteness.     The 
result,  however,  was  satisfactory ;  for  they  at  last 
pronounced  him  to  be  a  perfect  human  being,  ex- 
cept in  the  colour  of  his  hair  and  eyes:  the  first 
they  insisted  was  like  the  stained  hair  of  a  buffalo's 
tail,  and  the  last,  being  light,  were  compared  to 
those  of  a  gull.   The  whiteness  of  his  skin  also  was  a 
circumstance  on  which  they  demurred  a  little,  ob- 
serving, that  it  looked  like  meat  which  had  been 
sodden  in  water  till  all  the  blood  was  extracted.    He 
continued,  however,  to  be  viewed  with  a  mixture  of 
curiosity  and  admiration,  and  at  his  toilet  was  gene- 

5 


i 


VARIATIONS  IN  THE  CLIMATK. 


Kil 


lere  some 
kindness, 
assistance, 
ble,  as  the 
IS  Hearne 
liis  guide 
reated  the 
ith  distin- 
le  English 
peace,  and 
that  a  Eu- 
theneigh- 
y  acknow- 
the  mouth 
gular  sim- 
fling  objec- 
s  so  smooth 
small  boats 
?rring,  that 
st  be  sure 
white  man 
nbers,  who 
less.     The 
ley  at  last 
being,  ex- 
the  first 
a  buffalo's 
m  pared  to 
also  was  a 
little,  ob- 
had  been 
icted.    He 
ixture  of 
was  gene- 


rally attended  by  a  body  of  the  Indians,  who,  when 
he  used  his  comb,  asked  for  the  hairs  which  came 
off.  These  they  carefully  wrapped  up,  saying, 
"'  When  I  see  you  again,  you  shall  again  see  your 
iiair."^ 

On  reaching  Congecathawhachaga  in  latitude  08 
4f)'  north,  Matonabbee  deemed  it  expedient  to  leave 
all  the  women,  taking  the  precaution  to  kill  as  many 
deer  as  were  necessary  for  their  support  during  his 
absence.  The  flesh  was  cut  into  thin  slices  and 
dried  in  the  sun, — a  frequent  mode  of  preserving 
it  in  these  high  northern  latitudes,  by  which  it  is 
kept  palatable  and  nourishing  for  a  twelvemonth. 
Having  completed  these  arrangements,  the  party 
resumed  their  journey  on  the  1st  of  July,  proceed- 
ing amidst  dreadful  storms  of  snow  and  occasional 
torrents  of  rain,  which  drenched  them  to  the  skin, 
through  a  barren  and  desolate  country,  where  it 
was  impossible  with  the  wet  moss  and  green  brush- 
wood to  kindle  a  fire.  Compelled  to  take  shelter  in 
caves  at  night, — for  they  had  no  tents, — obliged  to  eat 
their  meat  raw,  with  the  enjoyment  of  no  higher 
luxury  than  a  pipe,  they  yet  pushed  forward  with 
unshaken  perseverance,  and  after  a  week  of  great 
suffering,  had  the  comfort  to  observe  a  complete 
change  in  the  weather,  which  first  became  moderate, 
and  soon  after  so  sultry  that  it  was  sometimes  im- 
possible to  move  at  all. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  13th  July,  the  expedi- 
tion crossed  a  long  chain  of  hiMs,  from  the  top  of 
which  they  discerned  a  branch  that  joins  the  Cop- 
permine about  forty  miles  from  its  influx  into  the 


*  Hearne's  Journey,  p.  122. 


■4 

I 


1G2 


INDIAN  COOKERY. 


sea.  Here  tlie  Indians  killed  a  few  fine  buck-deer, 
procured  some  excellent  firewood,  and,  as  it  was 
not  certain  that  so  favourable  an  opportunity  would 
soon  occur  again,  they  sat  down  with  appetites 
sharpened  by  long  privation,  spirits  raised  by  the  re- 
collection  of  hardships  overcome,  and  the  almost 
certain  prospect  of  ere  long  accomplishing  the  great 
object  of  their  expedition,  to  the  most  cheerful  and 
comfortable  meal  they  had  enjoyed  for  a  long  period. 
The  reader  will  be  amused  with  Hearne's  descrip. 
tion  of  this  delicious  repast,  and  of  the  mysteries  ot 
Indian  cookery  :  "  As  such  favourable  opportunities 
of  indulging  tlie  appetite,"  says  he,  "  happen  but 
seldom,  it  is  a  general  rule  with  the  Indians,  whidi 
we  did  not  neglect,  to  exert  every  art  in  dressing,' 
their  food  which  the  most  refined  skill  in  Indian 
cooking  has  been  able  to  invent,  and  which  consists 
chiefly  in  boiling,  broiling,  and  roasting ;  but  of  all 
the  dishes  cooked  by  these  people,  a  becatee,  as  it  is 
(?aiied  in  their  language,  is  certainly  the  most  de. 
licious  (at  least  for  a  change)  which  can  be  pre. 
pared  from  a  deer  only  without  any  other  ingredient, 
It  is  a  kind  of  Scotch  '  haggis'  made  with  the  blood. 
a  good  quantity  of  fat  shred  small,  some  of  the  ten- 
derest  of  the  flesh,  together  with  the  heart  and 
lungs,  cut  or  more  commonly  torn  into  small  shivers, 
— all  which  is  put  into  the  stomach  and  roasted,  by 
being  suspended  over  the  fire  by  a  string.  Care 
must  be  taken  that  it  does  not  get  too  much  heat 
at  first,  as  the  bag  would  thereby  be  liable  to  be 
burnt  and  the  contents  let  out.  When  it  is  suffi- 
ciently done  it  vv^ill  emit  a  rich  steam,  in  the  same 
manner  as  a  fowl  or  a  joint  of  meat,  which  is  as 
juucli  a^  to  say  '  Come  eat  me  now !'  and  if  it  be 


TUK  COPPERMINE  RIVER. 


1G3 


buck-deer, 
as  it  was 
lity  would 
appetites 
[  by  the  re- 
tlie  almost 
g  the  great  j 
leerful  and 
ong  period, 
e's  descrip. 
iiysteries  ot 
)portunities 
lappen  but 
iaiis,  whicli 
in  dressini: 
in  Indian 
ieh  consists 
;  but  of  all 
itee,  as  it  is 
e  most  de. 
an  be  pre- 
ingredient. 
1  the  blood, 
of  the  ten- 
heart  and 
[lall  shivers, 
roasted,  by 
ing.     Care 
much  heat 
iable  to  be 
it  is  suffi-  * 
n  the  same 
vhich  is  as 
id  if  it  be 


taken  in  time,  before  the  blood  or  the  contents  are  too 
much  done,  it  is  certainly  a  most  delicious  morsel, 
even  without  pepper,  salt,  or  any  other  seasoning."* 

Having  regaled  themselves  in  this  sumptuous 
manner,  and  taken  a  few  hours'  rest,  they  once 
more  set  out,  and  after  a  walk  of  nine  or  ten  miles, 
at  last  arrived  at  the  Coppermine.  Scarcely  had 
Ilearne  congratulated  himself  on  reaching  the  great 
object  of  his  mission,  unpacked  his  surveying  in- 
struments, and  pre[)ared  to  follow  its  progress  to 
the  great  Arctic  Ocean,  when  one  of  those  dark 
and  terrible  scenes  occurred  which  are  so  strik- 
ingly characteristic  of  savage  life.  As  soon  as  Ma- 
tonabbee  and  his  party  gained  the  banks  of  the 
river,  three  spies  were  sent  out  to  discover  whether 
any  Esquimaux  were  in  the  neighbourhood.  Af- 
ter a  short  absence  they  returned  with  intelligence 
that  they  had  seen  five  tents,  about  twelve  miles 
distant  on  the  wTst  side  of  the  river.  All  was  now 
warlike  preparation ;  the  guns,  knives,  and  spears, 
were  carefully  examined ;  and  as  they  learned  that 
the  nature  of  the  ground  would  render  it  easy  to  ad- 
vance unperceived,  it  was  determined  to  steal  upon 
their  victims  in  this  manner,  and  put  them  1 3  death. 
This  plan  was  executed  with  the  most  savage  exact- 
ness; and  nothing  could  present  a  more  dreadful 
view  of  human  nature  in  its  unenlightened  state, 
than  the  perfect  unanimity  of  purpose  which  pervad- 
ed the  whole  body  of  Indians  upon  this  horrid  oc- 
casion, although  at  other  times  they  were  in  no  re- 
spect amenable  to  discipline. 

Each  man  first  painted  his  target,  some  with  a  re- 
presentation of  the  sun,  others  of  the  moon,  and  se- 

*  Hearne's  Journey,  p.  144. 


,:s 


1()4 


ATTACK  ON  THE  ESQUIMAUX. 


vera!  with  the  pictures  of  beasts  and  birds  of  prey,  or 
of  imaginary  beings,  which  they  aflirmed  to  be  the 
inhabitants  of  the  elements,  upon  whose  assistance 
they  relied  for  success  in  their  enterprise.  They  then 
moved  with  the  utmost  stealth  in  the  direction  of  the 
tents,  taking  care  not  to  cross  any  of  the  hills  which 
concealed  their  approach.  It  was  a  miserable  circum- 
stance that  these  poor  creatures  had  taken  up  their 
abode  in  such  ground  that  their  enemies,  without 
l)eing  observed,  formed  an  ambuscade  not  200  yards 
distant,  and  lav  for  some  time  watching  the  mo. 
tionsofthe  Esquimaux,  as  if  marking  their  victims. 
Here  the  last  preparations  for  the  attack  were  made: 
The  Indians  tied  up  their  long  black  hair  in  a  knot 
behind,  lest  it  should  be  blown  in  their  eyes  ;  paint- 
ed their  faces  bla*-^    and  red,  which  gave  them  a 
hideous  aspec* ;  dn .  oerately  tucked  up  the  sleeves 
of  their  jackets  close  under  the  armpits,  and  pulled 
off  their  stockings;  whilst  some,  still  more  eager  to 
render  themselves  light  for  running,  threw  off  their 
jackets,  and  stood  with  their  weapons  in  their  hands 
quite  naked,  except  their  breech-clothes  and  shoes. 
By  the  time  all  were  ready  it  was  near  one  o'clock 
in  the  morning;  when, finding  the  Esquimaux  quiet, 
they  rushed  from  their  concealment.    Ii  an  instant, 
roused  by  the  shouts  of  the  savages,  the  unfortunate 
wretches,  men,  women,  and  children,  ran  naked  out 
of  the  tents,  and  attempted  to  escape ;  but  the  In. 
dians  had  surrounded  them  on  the  land  side,  and 
as  none  dared  to  leap  into  the  river,  all  were  mur- 
dered in  cold  blood  ;  whilst  Hearne,  whom  a  regard 
for  his  personal  safety  had  compelled  to  ai  company 
the  party,  stood  a  short  way  off  rooted  to  the  ground 
in  horror  and  agony. 


DREADFUL  MASSACRK. 


IG"! 


5  of  prey,  or 

id  to  be  the 

i  assistance 

Thev  then 

ction  of  tlu 

liills  wliich 

ble  circuiii- 

en  up  tlieir 

es,  vvitliout 

t  200  yards 

ng  tlie  1110- 

eir  victims. 

ivere  made : 

ir  in  a  knot 

yes;  paint- 

ive  them  a 

the  sleeves 

and  pulled 

re  eager  to 

ew  off  their 

their  hands 

and  shoes. 

one  o'clock 

naux  quiet. 

an  instant, 

infortunat<' 

I  naked  out 

)ut  the  In- 

i  side,  and 

were  mur- 

ni  a  regard 

aicompany 

the  ground 


"  The  shrieks  and  groans  of  the  poor  expiring 
wretclies, "  says  he,  in  his  striking  account  of  this 
dreadful  episode  in  savage  life,  "  were  truly  dis- 
tressinir:  and  ni\  horror  was  much  increased  at  see- 
ing  a  young  girl,  about  eighteen  years  of  age,  killed 
so  near  me  that  wlw  the  first  spear  was  struck  in- 
to her  side  she  fell  down  at  my  feet  and  twisted 
round  my  legs,  so  that  it  was  with  dilliculty  that 
I  could  disengage  myself  from  her  dying  grasps. 
As  two  Indian  im  n  pursued  this  unfortunate  vic- 
tim, I  .solicited  very  hard  for  her  life;  but  the  mur- 
derers made  no  reply  till  they  had  stuck  hoth  their 
spears  through  her  hudy  and  transfixed  her  to  the 
ground.  They  then  looked  me  sternly  in  the  face, 
and  l)egan  to  ridicule  me  by  asking  if  I  wanted  an 
Esquimaux  wife,  whilst  they  paid  not  the  smallest 
regard  to  the  shrieks  and  agony  of  the  poor  wretch, 
who  was  turning  round  iheir  spears  like  an  eel. 
Indeed,  after  receiving  from  them  much  abusive 
language  on  the  occasion,  I  was  at  length  obliged  to 
desire  that  they  would  be  more  expeditious  in  de- 
spatching their  victim  out  of  her  misery,  otherwise  I 
should  be  obliged  out  of  pity  to  assist  in  the  friendly 
oflice  of  putting  an  end  to  the  existence  of  a  fellow- 
creature  who  was  so  cruelly  wounded.  On  this  re- 
quest being  made,  one  of  the  Indians  hastily  drew 
his  spear  from  the  place  where  it  was  first  lodged, 
and  pierced  it  through  her  breast  near  the  heart. 
The  love  of  life,  however,  even  in  this  most  mise- 
rable state,  was  so  Mredominant,  that  though  this 
might  be  justly  called  the  most  merciful  act  which 
could  be  done  for  the  poor  c!\  ature,  it  seemed  to  be 
unwelcome;  for,  though  much  exhau  ^  d  by  pain 
and  loss  of  blood,  she  made  several  efforts  to  ward 


■i 


t^llJt. 


\m 


(  0PPER-MINE8. 


off  the  friendly  blow.  INIy  situation  and  the  terror 
of  my  mind  at  bclioldin^f  this  InitclicTy  cannot  easily 
l)eeonceived,  much  less  described  :  thou^di  I  summed 
up  all  th((  fortitude  I  was  master  of  on  the  occasion, 
it  was  with  difliculty  that  I  could  refrain  from  tears , 
and  I  am  confident  that  my  features  must  have  fet;!- 
ingly  expressed  how  sincerely  I  was  aff(»cted  at  the 
barbarous  scene  I  then  witnessed.  Even  at  this 
hour  I  cannot  reflect  on  the  transactions  of  that 
horrid  day  without  shedding  tears."* 

After  making  an  accurate  survey  of  the  rivor 
till  its  junction  with  the  sea,  Hearne  proceeded  to 
one  of  the  copper-mines,  which  he  found  scarcely 
to  deserve  the  name,  it  being  nothing  more  than  a 
chaotic  mass  of  rocks  and  gravel,  rent  by  an  earth- 
quake, or  some  other  convulsion,  into  numerous  fis- 
sures,  through  one  of  which  flowed  a  small  river. 
Although  the  Indians  had  talked  in  magnificent 
terms  of  this  mine,  after  a  search  of  four  hours  a 
solitary  piece  of  ore  was  all  that  could  be  discovered ; 
and  instead  of  pointing  out  the  hills  entirely  com- 
posed  of  copper,  and  the  quantities  of  rich  ore  with 
which  they  had  affirmed  it  would  be  easy  to  freight 
a  large  vessel,  they  now  told  a  ridiculous  story  of 
some  insults  offered  to  the  goddess  of  the  mine,  who 
in  revenge  declared  that  she  would  sit  upon  it  till 
she  and  it  sunk  together  into  the  earth.  In  conse- 
quence  of  this  threat,  they  next  year  (bund  her  sunk 
up  to  the  waist,  and  the  quantity  of  copper  much  de- 
creased, whilst  the  following  summer  she  had  entire- 
ly disappeared,  and  the  whole  mine  along  with  her. 

In  reaching  the  sea,  Hearne  had  accomplished  tlif 

•  Hearne's  Journey,  pp.  154, 155. 


I  i 


f 


id  thr  terror 
unnol  easily 
h  I  sumiiK'd 
ho  occasion, 
from  tears , 
st  have  feel, 
ected  at  the 
ven  at  this 
ons  of  that 

f  the  river 
)roceeded  to 
lid  scarcely 
nore  than  a 
»y  an  earth- 
imerous  fis- 
small  river, 
magnificent 
ur  liours  a 
discovered ; 
tirely  com- 
ch  ore  with 
y  to  freight 
•us  storv  of 
mine,  wlio 
upon  it  till 

In  conse- 
d  her  sunk 
r  much  de- 
lad  entire- 

with  her. 
plished  tilt; 


ATHABASCA  LAKK. 


107 


"reat  object  of  hi.s  joiirnev,  and  his  homeward 
route  did  not  vary  materially  from  his  course  to  the 
Arctic  Ocean.  On  lilst  July,  they  arrived  at  the 
place  wluTe  the  Indians  had  left  their  families,  and 
on  !)th  August  resumed  their  course  to  the  south- 
west ;  travelling  with  frecjuent  intervals  of  rest 
till,  on  24tli  November,  they  reached  the  northern 
shore  of  the  great  Athahasv.'a  Lake.  In  this  lati- 
tude, at  this  season,  the  sun's  course  formed  an  ex- 
tremelv  small  seirment  of  a  circle  above  the  horizon, 
scar»'ely  rising  halfway  up  the  trees;  but  the  bril- 
liancy of  the  stars,  and  th<'  vivid  and  beautiful  light 
emitted  by  the  aurora  boreal  is,  even  without  tlie  aid 
of  the  moon,  amply  compensat(Hl  for  the  want  of 
the  sun,  so  that  at  midnight  Ilearne  could  see  to 
read  very  small  print.  In  the  deep  stillness  of  the 
night,  also,  these  northern  meteors  were  distinctly 
heard  to  make  a  rushing  and  crackling  noise,  like 
the  waving  of  a  large  flag  in  a  fresh  gale  of  wind.  • 
According  to  the  information  of  the  natives,  the 
Athabasca  Lake  is  nearly  120  leagues  long  from 
east  to  west,  and  twenty  wide  from  north  to  south. 
It  was  beautifully  studded  with  islands,  covered 
with  tall  poplars,  birch,  and  pines,  which  were  plen- 
tifully stocked  with  deer,  and  abounded  with  pike, 
trout,  and  barbie,  besides  the  species  known  by  the 
Indians  under  the  names  of  tittameg,  methy,  and 
shees. 

The  country  through  which  they  had  liitherto 
travelled  had  been  extremely  barren  and  hilly,  co- 
vered with  stunted  firs  and  dwarf  willows ;  but  it 
now  subsided  into  a  fine  plain,  occasionally  varied 

*  Hearne's  Journey,  p.  224. 


II 


168 


KXTRAORDINARY  S:ORY 


with  tall  woods,  and  well  stocked  with  buffalo  and 
moose-deer.  The  party  spent  some  days  with  much 
pleasure  in  hunting ;  and  as  the  flesh  of  the  younger 
buffaloes  was  delicious,  their  exhausted  stock  of 
provisions  was  seasonably  supplied.  In  one  of 
their  excursions  an  incident  occurred  strikingly 
characteristic  of  savage  life :  The  Indians  came 
suddenly  on  the  track  of  a  strange  snow-shoe,  and 
following  it  to  a  wild  part  of  the  country,  remote 
from  any  human  habitation,  they  discovered  a  hut, 
in  which  a  young  Indian  woman  was  sitting  alone. 
She  had  lived  for  the  last  eight  moons  in  absolute 
solitude,  and  recounted  with  affecting  simplicity  the 
circumstances  by  which  she  had  been  driven  from 
her  own  people  :  She  belonged,  she  said,  to  the  tribe 
of  the  Dog-ribbed  Indians,  and  in  an  inroad  of  the 
Athabasca  nation,  in  the  summer  of  1770,  had  been 
taken  prisoner.  The  savages,  according  to  their  in- 
variable practice,  stole  upon  the  tents  in  the  night, 
and  murdered  before  her  face  her  father,  mother,  and 
husband,  whilst  she  and  three  other  young  women 
were  reserved  from  iht  slaughter,  and  made  captive. 
Her  child,  four  or  five  months  old,  she  contrived  to 
carry  with  her,  concealed  among  some  clothing ;  but 
on  arriving  at  the  place  where  the  party  had  left 
their  wives,  her  precious  bundle  was  examined 
by  the  Athabasca  women,  one  of  whom  tore  the 
infant  from  its  mother,  and  killed  it  on  the  spot. 
In  Europe,  an  act  so  inhuman  would,  in  all  pro- 
bability, have  been  instantly  followed  by  the  in- 
sanity of  the  parent ;  but  in  North  America,  though 
maternal  affection  is  equally  intense,  the  nerves  are 
more  sternly  strung.  So  horrid  a  cruelty,  however, 
determined  her,  though  the  man  whose  property  she 


OP  AN  INDIAN  WOaiAN. 


I()i) 


buffalo  ami 
I  with  much 
the  younger 
dd  stock  of 
In  one  of 
L  strikingly 
dians  came 
v-shoe,  and 
try,  remote 
/ered  a  hut, 
tting  alone, 
in  absolute 
mplicity  the 
driven  from 
to  the  tribe 
iroad  of  the 
0,  had  been 
to  their  in- 
1  the  night, 
Tiother^  and 
mg  women 
ide  captive. 
:ontrived  to 
thing ;  but 
•ty  had  left 

examined 
n  tore  the 
n  the  spot, 
in  all  pro- 
by  the  in- 
ica,  thougli 

nerves  are 
,  liowever, 
operty  she 


liad  become  was  kind  and  careful  of  her,  to  take 
the  first  opportunity  of  escaping,  with  the  intention 
of  returning  to  her  own  nation  ;  but  the  great  dis- 
tance, and  the  numerous  winding  rivers  and  creeks 
she  had  to  pass,  caused  her  to  lose  the  way,  and 
winter  coming  on,  she  had  built  a  hut  in  this  se- 
cluded spot.  When  discovered,  she  was  in  good 
liealtli,  well  fed,  and  in  the  opinion  of  Hearne, 
one  of  tile  finest  Indian  women  he  had  ever  seen. 
Five  or  six  inches  of  hoop  made  into  a  knife,  and 
the  iron  shank  of  an  arrow-head  which  served  as 
an  awl,  were  the  only  implements  she  possessed; 
and  with  these  she  made  snow-shoes  and  other 
useful  articles.  For  subsistence  she  snared  par- 
tridges, rabbits,  and  squirrels,  and  had  killed  two 
or  three  beavers  and  some  porcupines.  After  the 
few  deer-sinews  she  had  brought  with  her  were  ex- 
pended in  making  snares  and  sewing  her  clothing, 
she  supplied  their  place  with  the  sinews  of  rab- 
bits' legs,  which  she  twisted  together  with  great 
dexterity.  Thus  occupied,  she  not  only  became  re- 
conciled to  her  desolate  situation,  but  had  found 
time  to  amuse  herself  by  manufacturing  little  pieces 
of  personal  ornament.  Her  clothing  was  formed  of 
rabbit-skins  sewed  together ;  the  materials,  though 
rude,  being  tastefully  disposed,  so  as  to  make  her 
garb  assume  a  pleasing  though  desert-bred  appear- 
ance. The  singular  circumstances  under  which  she 
was  found,  her  beauty  and  useful  accomplishments, 
occasioned  a  contest  among  the  Indians,  as  to  who 
should  have  her  for  a  wife ;  and  the  matter  being 
decided,  she  accompanied  them  in  their  journey. 
On  1st  iMarcli,  they  left  the  level  country  of  the 
Athabascas,  and  approached  the  stony  hills  bound- 


!  i 


170 


NORTH-WEST  FUR  COMPANY. 


'm^  tlie  territories  of  the  Northern  Indians,  traversing 
which  they  arrived  in  safety  at  Prince  of  Wales' 
Fort  on  the  29th  of  June  1772,  having  been  absent 
eighteen  months  and  twenty-three  days. 

The  journey  of  Hearne  must  be  regarded  as  form, 
ing  an  important  era  in  the  geography  of  America. 
For  some  time  it  had  been  supposed  that  this  vast 
(ontinent  extended  in  an  almost  unbroken  mass 
towards  the  Pole ;  and  we  find  it  thus  depicted  in 
the  maps  of  that  period.  The  circumstance  of 
Hearne  having  reached  the  shore  of  the  great  Arc. 
tic  Ocean  at  once  demonstrated  the  fallacy  of  al! 
such  ideas.  It  threw  a  new  and  clear  light  upon 
the  structure  of  this  portion  of  the  globe,  and  resting 
upon  the  results  thus  distinctly  ascertained,  the  hu- 
man  mind,  indefatigable  in  the  pursuit  of  knowledge, 
started  forward  in  a  career  of  still  more  enlarged 
and  interesting  discovery.* 

Whilst  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  by  the 
mission  of  Mr  Hearne,  vindicated  their  character 
from  the  charge  of  indifference  to  the  cause  of  geo- 
graphical discovery^  another  institution  had  arisen 
under  the  title  of  the  North-West  Fur  Company, 
which,  though  it  did  not  rest  on  a  royal  charter,  and 
had  experienced  in  its  earliest  exertions  many  se- 
vere reverses,  at  last  arrived,  by  the  intelligence  and 
perseverance  of  its  partners  and  servants,  at  a  de- 
gree  of  prosperity  which  surpassed  the  chartered 
companies  of  France  and  England.  In  the  count- 
ing-house of  Mr  Gregory,  a  partner  of  this  company, 
was  bred  a  native  of  Inverness,  named  Alexander 
Mackenzie.     In  conducting  the  practical  details  of 


*  Mnrray's  Disco verk's  and  Travels  in  North  America,  vol.  ii.  |>.  141). 


SIR  ALEXANDER  MACKENZIE. 


171 


,  traversing 
}  of  Wales' 
3een  absent 

led  as  form. 
3f  America, 
at  this  vast 
roken  mass 
depicted  in 
imstance  of 
;  great  Arc. 
illacy  of  all 
light  upon 
and  resting 
led,  the  Iiu- 
'  knowledge, 
ire  enlarged 

iiy,  by  the 
ir  character 
,use  of  geo- 

Iiad  arisen 
r  Company, 
:'harter,  and 
is  many  se- 

igeiice  and 
s,  at  a  de- 
chartered 

the  count, 
is  company, 

Alexander 
il  details  of 


I 


I 


1,  vol.  II.  I' 


14i). 


the  fur-trade,  he  had  been  settled  at  an  early  period 
of  life  in  the  country  to  the  north-west  of  Lake 
Superior,  and  became  animated  with  the  ambition  of 
penetrating  across  the  continent :  For  this  under-, 
taking  he  was  eminently  qualified,  possessing  an  in- 
quisitive and  enterprising  mind  with  a  strong  frame 
of  body,  and  combining  the  fervid  and  excursive  ge- 
nius which  has  been  said  to  characterize  the  Scots  in 
general,  with  that  more  cautious  and  enduring  tem- 
perament which  belongs  to  the  northern  Highlander. 

On  3d  June  1789,  IMackenzie  set  out  from  Fort 
Chepewyan,  at  the  head  of  the  Athabasca  Lake,  a 
station  nearly  central  between  Hudson's  Bay  and  the 
Pacific.  He  had  resided  here  for  eight  years,  and  wa^s 
familiar  with  the  difficulties  of  the  journey  as  well 
as  aware  of  the  most  likely  methods  of  surmounting 
them.  He  took  with  him  four  canoes.  In  the  first  he 
embarked  with  a  German  and  four  Canadians,  two 
of  the  latter  being  accompanied  by  their  wives. 
A  Northern  Indian,  called  the  English  Chief,  who 
had  been  a  follower  of  IMatonabbee  the  guide  of  Mr 
Hearne,  occupied  the  second  with  his  two  wives. 
The  third  was  paddled  by  two  stout  young  Indians, 
who  acted  in  the  double  capacity  of  hunters  and  in- 
terpreters ;  whilst  the  fourth  was  laden  with  pro- 
visions, clothing,  ammunition,  and  various  articles 
intended  as  presents  for  the  Indians.  This  last 
canoe  was  committed  to  the  charge  of  IMr  le  Roux, 
one  of  the  company's  clerks. 

On  4tli  June,  the  party  reached  the  Slave  River, 
which  connects  the  Athabasca  and  Slave  Lakes, 
in  a  course  of  about  I70  miles;  and  on  the  9th 
of  the  sa.'ui'  month  they  arrived  at  the  Slave  Lake, 
without  experiencing  any  other  inconveniences  than 


172 


.MACKENZIE  S  FIRST  JOURNEY. 


those  arising  from  the  attacks  of  tlie  mosquitoes 
during  the  heat  of  the  day,  and  the  extreme  cold 
in  the  morning  and  evening.  In  the  river  wen 
frequent  rapids,  which  obliged  them  to  land  and 
transport  their  canoes  and  luggage  over  the  car- 
rying-places,— a  toilsome  process,  but  attended  witli 
no  danger,  as  the  path  had  been  cleared  by  thi 
Indians  trading  with  the  company.  The  banks 
were  covered  with  various  kinds  of  trees ;  but. 
owing  to  its  inferior  level  and  its  rich  black  soil, 
the  western  side  was  more  thickly  wooded  than 
the  other.  On  the  eastern  bank,  composed  of  a 
yellow  clay  mixed  with  gravel,  the  trees  were 
smaller,  but  in  full  leaf,  though  the  ground  was  not 
thawed  above  fourteen  inches  in  depth.  At  a  littlt 
distance  from  the  river  were  extensive  plains  fre- 
quented by  herds  of  buffaloes  ;  the  woods  bordering 
its  sides  were  tenanted  by  moose  and  rein  deer; 
and  numerous  colonies  of  beavers  built  their  ha- 
bitations on  the  small  streams  which  fed  the  lake. 
This  large  body  of  water  was  covered  with  ice,  which 
had  not  given  way  except  in  a  small  strip  round 
the  shore,  where  the  depth,  nowhere  exceeding  thref 
feet,  was  scarcely  sufficient  to  float  the  canoes. 
Though  now  the  9th  of  June,  there  was  every  ap- 
pearance that  the  ice  would  detain  the  expedition 
for  a  considerable  time ;  and  it  was  thought  neces- 
sary  to  pitch  their  tents.  The  nets  were  now  set ; 
the  Indians  went  off  in  different  directions  to  hunt; 
the  women  gathered  berries  of  various  sorts,  which 
abounded  in  the  neighbouring  woods ;  and  their 
larder  was  soon  supplied  with  plenty  of  geese,  ducks, 
and  beaver,  excellent  trout,  carp,  and  white  fish, 
and  some  dozens  of  swan  and  duck  eg'"  -v^ich  were 


RED  KNIFK   INDIANS. 


m 


mosquitoes 
'xtreme  cold 

river  were 
to  land  and 
*^er  the  car- 
ttended  witli 
ared  by  the 

The  banks 

trees ;   but. 

1  black  soil, 

vooded  than 

nposed  of  a 

trees  were 
und  was  not 
At  a  little 
'i  plains  fre- 
)ds  bordering 
I  rein  deer; 
ilt  their  ha- 
'ed  the  lake, 

1  ice,  which 

strip  round 
ceding  three 

the  canoes, 
as  every  ap- 
expedition 

)ught  neces- 

re  now  set ; 

)ns  to  hunt ; 

sorts,  which 
and  their 

eese,  ducks, 

white  fish, 

-v^ich  were 


picked  up  in  an  adjac«'nt  island.  Their  stay,  there- 
fore, was  far  from  unpleasant,  combininfi;  tho  novelty 
of  a  residence  in  a  strange  coimtry  with  the  excita- 
tion and  variety  of  a  hunter's  life  ;  and  on  the  15th, 
after  a  rest  cf  six  days,  as  the  ice  had  given  way  u 
little,  they  resumed  their  journey. 

Since  leaving  Athabasca,  the  twilight  had  been 
so  bright,  owing  to  the  short  disappearance  of  the 
sun  below  the  horizon,  that  even  at  midnight  not  a 
star  was  to  be  seen  ;  but  as  they  glided  along  the 
lake  they  were  greeted  by  the  moon,  which  rose 
beautifully  above  the  woods,  with  her  lower  horn  in 
a  state  of  eclipse.  The  obscuration  continued  for 
about  six  mi]iutes  in  a  cloudless  skv.*  Coasting 
along  the  shore,  they  came  to  a  lodge  of  Red  Knife 
Indians,  so  denominated  from  their  using  copper 
knives.  One  of  these  men  engaged  to  conduct  them 
to  the  mouth  of  the  river  which  was  the  object  of 
their  search  ;  but  such  were  the  impediments  en- 
countered from  drift-ice,  contrary  winds  and  the 
ignorance  of  the  guide,  whom  the  English  Chief 
threatened  to  murder  for  engaging  in  a  service 
for  which  he  was  unfit,  that  it  was  the  29tli  of 
the  month  before  they  embarked  upon  the  river 
since  known  by  the  name  of  the  traveller  who  now^ 
first  ascended  it.  On  leaving  the  lake,  the  Mac- 
kenzie River  was  found  to  run  to  the  westward, 
becoming  gradually  narrower  for  twenty-four  miles, 
till  it  diminished  into  a  stream  not  more  than  half 
a  mile  wide,  with  a  strong  current,  and  a  depth  of 
three  and  a  half  fathoms.  A  stiff  breeze  from  the 
eastward  now  drove  them  on  at  a  great  rate,  and 


Mackenzie'a  Travels,  [h  11. 


174 


MACKENZIE  RIVER. 


after  a  rapid  run  of  ten  miles,  the  .  Iiannel  gradu- 
ally  widened  till  it  assumed  the  appearance  of  a 
small  lake,  which  proved  to  be  the  utmost  limit 
known  to  their  guide.  They  now  came  in  sight  of  the 
chain  of  the  Horn  Mountains,  bearing  north-west, 
and  had  some  difficulty  in  recovering  the  channel 
of  the  river. 

Having  resumed  their  course  on  1st  July,  thev 
met  with  no  interruption  for  five  days,  when  they 
observed  several  smokes  on  the  northern  bank.  On 
landing  they  discovered  an  encampment  of  five  fa- 
milies of  Slave  and  Dog-ribbed  Indians,  who  on  the 
first  appearance  of  the  party  fled  into  the  woods  in 
consternation.  The  entreaties  of  the  English  Chief, 
whose  language  they  understood,  at  length  dissipated 
their  apprehensions ;  and  the  distribution  of  a  few 
beads,  rings,  and  knives,  with  a  supply  of  grog,  re- 
conciled them  entirely  to  the  strangers.  Their  ac- 
count of  the  difficulties  in  the  farther  navigation  of 
the  river  was  not  a  little  appalling  :  They  asserted 
that  it  would  require  several  winters  to  reach  the 
sea,  and  that  old  age  would  inevitably  overtake  tlie 
party  before  their  return.  iMonsters  of  horrid  shapes 
and  malignant  disposition  were  represented  as  hav- 
ing their  abodes  in  the  rocky  caves  on  the  banks, 
ready  to  devour  the  presumptuous  traveller  who  ap- 
proached ;  and  the  more  substantial  impediment  of 
two  impassable  falls  was  said  to  exist  about  thirty 
days'  march  from  where  they  then  were. 

Though  such  tales  were  treated  with  contempt 
by  Mackenzie,  the  Indians,  already  tired  of  the 
voyage,  drank  them  in  with  willing  ears,  and  they 
could  scarcely  be  persuaded  to  pursue  their  jour- 
ney.    On  consenting  to  proceed,  one  of  the  Dog- 


SLAVP]  AND  DOG-RIBBKD  INDIANS. 


175 


nel  gradu- 
iranco  of  a 
most  limit 
sight  of  the 
north- west, 
lie  channel 


July,  thev 

when  thev 

bank.    On 
of  five  fa- 

who  on  the 

le  woods  in 

glish  Chief, 

h  dissipated 

)n  of  a  few 

of  grog,  re- 
Their  ac- 

IV  i  gat  ion  of 

lev  asserted 

0  reach  the 

>vertake  tlie 

orrid  shapes 
ed  as  hav-    j 
the  banks,     3 
or  who  ap-    i| 

lediment  of 

bout  thirty 

h  contempt 
ired  of  the 
s,  and  they    j 
their  jour-    ! 
f  the  Dog-    I 


ribbed  Indians  was  induced,  by  the  present  of  a 
kettle,  an  axe,  and  some  other  articles,  to  accom- 
pany them  as  a  guide ;  l)ut  when  the  time  of  em- 
l)arkation  arrived,  his  love  of  home  came  upon 
him  with  such  violence,  that  lie  used  everv  artifice 
to  escape  from  his  agreement,  and  at  last  was  ac- 
tually forced  on  board.  Previous  to  his  departure, 
a  singular  ceremony  took  place  :  With  great  solem- 
nity he  cut  off  a  lock  of  his  hair,  and  dividing  it 
into  three  parts,  fastened  one  to  the  upper  part  of 
his  wife's  head,  blowing  on  it  thrice  with  the  ut- 
most violence,  and  uttering  certain  words  as  a  charm. 
The  other  two  locks  he  fixed  with  the  same  cere- 
monies to  the  heads  of  his  two  children.  These 
Indians  were  in  general  a  m<'agre,  ugly,  and  ill- 
favoured  race,  particularly  ill-made  in  the  legs. 
Some  of  them  wore  their  hair  very  long,  others  al- 
lowed a  tress  to  fall  behind,  cutting  the  rest  short 
round  their  ears.  A  lew  old  men  had  beards, 
whilst  the  young  and  middle-aged  appeared  to  have 
pulled  out  every  hair  on  their  chin.  Each  cheek 
was  adorned  by  two  double  lines  tattooed  from  the 
ear  to  the  nose,  of  which  the  gristle  was  perforated 
so  as  to  admit  a  goose-quill  or  a  small  piece  of  wood. 
Their  clothing  consisted  of  dressed  deer-skins.  For 
winter  wear  these  were  prepared  with  the  fur,  and 
the  shirts  made  of  them  decorated  with  a  neat  'Em- 
broidery, composed  of  porcupine-quills  and  the  hair 
of  the  moose-deer,  coloured  red,  black,  yellow,  or 
white.  Their  shirts  reached  to  the  mid-thigh,  whilst 
their  upper  garments  covered  the  whole  body,  having 
a  fringe  round  the  bottom.  Their  leggins,  which  were 
embroidered  round  the  ankle  and  sewed  to  their 
shoes,  reached  to  11: id-thigh.     The  dress  of  the  wo- 


176 


GREAT  BEAR  LAKE  RIVER. 


men  was  nearly  tlie  same  as  tliat  of  tlie  men.  They 
wore  gorgets  of  liorn  or  wood,  and  liad  bracelets  of 
the  same  materials.  On  their  head  was  placed 
a  fillet  or  bandeau,  formed  of  strips  of  leather,  em- 
broidered riclily  with  porcupine-quills,  and  stuck 
round  with  bear's  claws  or  talons  of  wild  fowl. 
Their  belts  and  garters  were  neatly  constructed  of  the 
sinews  of  wild  animals  and  porcupine-quills.  From 
these  belts  descended  a  long  fringe  composed  of  strings 
of  leather,  and  worked  round  with  hair  of  various  co. 
lours,  and  their  mittens  hung  from  their  neck  in  a 
position  convenient  for  the  reception  of  their  hands.  ■ 
Their  arms  and  weapons  for  the  chase  were  bows 
and  arrows,  spt.'ars,  daggers,  and  a  large  club  form- 
ed of  the  rein-deer  horn,  called  a  pogamagan.  The 
bows  were  about  five  or  six  feet  long,  with  strings 
of  sinews ;  and  flint,  iron,  or  copper,  supplied  barbs 
to  the  arrows.  Their  spears,  nearly  six  feet  long, 
were  pointed  with  bone,  whilst  their  stone-axes 
were  fastened  with  cords  of  green  skin  to  a  wooden 
handle.  Their  canoes  w^re  light,  and  so  small  as 
to  carry  only  one  person. 

On  r)th  July,  the  party  re-embarked.  Continuing 
their  course  west-south-west,  they  passed  the  Great 
Bear  Lake  River ;  and  steering  through  numerous 
islands,  came  in  sight  of  a  ridge  of  snowy  moun- 
tains, frequented,  according  to  their  guide,  by  herds 
of  bears  and  small  white  buffaloes.  The  banks  of 
the  river  appeared  to  be  pretty  thickly  peopled ; 
and  though  at  first  the  natives  uniformly  attempted 
to  escape,  the  offer  of  presents  generally  brought 
them  back,  and  procured  a  seasonable  supply  of 


*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  35—37. 
7 


AMERICAN  MUSIC. 


177 


jn.    Tliov 
racelets  of 
as  placed 
itlier,  em- 
incl  stuck 
vild  fowl, 
ctedofthc 
lis.   From 
i  of  strings 
.'arious  co- 
neck  in  a 
Ar  hands." 
kvere  bows 
'lub  form- 
gaii.    The 
:itli  strings 
plied  barbs 
:  feet  long, 
stone-axes 
)  a  wooden 
0  small  as 

'ontinuing 

the  Great 

numerous 

kvy  moun- 

L  by  herds 

[e  banks  of 

peopled ; 

J  attempted 

ly  brought 

supply  of 


hares,  partridges,  fish,  or  rein-deer.     The  same  sto. 
riesof  spirits  or  nianitous  which  haunted  the  stream, 
and  of  fearful  rapids  tlat  would  dash  the  canoes  to 
pieces,  were  repeated  by  these  tribes  ;  and  the  uuide, 
upon  whom  such  n'presentations  had  a  powerful  ef- 
fect, decaniju'd  in  the  ni^^lit  during  a  storm  of  thun- 
der and  lightnin*,^  His  place,  however,  was  soon  sup- 
plied ;  and,  after  a  short  sail,  they  approached  an  en- 
campment of  Iiidinns,  whose  brawny  figures,  healthy 
ap[)earance,  and  great  cleanliness,  showed  them   to 
he  a  superior  race  to  those  lately  passed.     From  them 
Mackenzie  learnt  that  he  must  sleep  ten  nights  be- 
fore arrivinir  at  the  sea,  and  in  three  nights  would 
me(;t   the  Esquimaux,  with  whom  they  had  been 
formerly  at  war,  hut  were  now  in  a  state  of  |)eace. 
One  of  these  })eopIe,  whose  language  was  most  in- 
telligible to  the  interpreter,  agrecid    to   accompany 
the  party;  but  became  dreadfully  alarmed    when 
some  of  the    men  discharged   their  fowling-pieces. 
It  was  evident  none  of  this  race  had  ever  heard 
the  rej)ortof  fire-arms.     To  reconcile  him  to  his  de- 
parture, his  two  brothers  followed  in  their  canoes, 
and  diverted  aim  with  native  songs,  and  other  airs 
said   to  be  imitations  of  those  of  the  Esquimaux. 
The  triumph  of  music  was  never  more  strikingly 
( xhibited  ;   from  deep  dejection  the  Indian  at  once 
passed  into  a  state  of  the  highest  and  most  ludicrous 
excitement,  keeping  time  to  the  songs  by  a  variety  of 
grotesque  gesticulations,  performed  with  such  unceas- 
ing rapidity  and  so  little  regard  to  the  slenderness 
of  the  l)ark,  which  quivered  under  his  weight,  that 
they  expected  every  moment  to  see  it  upset.    In  one 
of  his  paroxysms,  shooting  his   canoe  alongside  oi' 
iMackenzie's,  he  leaped  into  it^  and  commenced  an 

L 


17« 


QUAIlllKLLKU   INDIANS. 


Esquimaux  dance.  At  last  lie  was  restored  to  sonio 
degree  of  ('()ni|)(>sure,  \vljieh  beeaine  complete  on 
their  i)assinj^r  a  hill,  where  he  informed  them  that 
three  winters  ago  the  Ksquimaux  had  slain  his 
grandfather.'^ 

INIackenzie  soon  after  reached  the  tents  of  a  tribe 
named  Deijiithee-Dinees,  or  Quarrellers,  who  justi- 
Tied  their  name  by  the  menacing  gestures  with  which 
they  received  the  strangers'  approach.  Afewpresents, 
however,  reconciled  them  to  the  intrusion  ;  and  they 
communicated  tin'  gratifying  intelligence  that  the 
distance  overland  to  the  sea,  either  by  an  easterly  or 
westerly  route,  was  inconsiderable.     The  party  now 
pushed  on  with  renewed  hopes;  and  the  river  soon 
after  separating  into  scAcral  streams,  they  chose  the 
middle  and  largest,  which  ran  north.     This  shortly 
brought  in  sight  a  range  of  snowy  mountains,  stretch, 
ing  far  to  the  northward;  and,  by  an  observation, 
Mackenzie  found  the  latitude  to  be  (i7°  47',  which 
convinced  him  that  the  waters  on  which  their  frail 
barks  were  then  gliding  must  flow  into  the  great 
Hyperborean  ()c(  an.t    At  this  moment,  when  with- 
in a  few  days  of  accomplishing  the  great  object  ot 
their  journey,  the  Indians  sunk  into  a  fit  of  despon- 
dency^ and  hesitated  to  proceed.     The  guide  plead- 
ed his  ignorance  of  the  country,  as  he  had  never  be- 
fore penetrated  to  the  shores  of  the  Benahulla  Toe, 
or  White  i\Ian's  Lake.     IMackehzie  assured  them 
he  would  return  if  they  did  not  reach  it  in  seven 
days,  and  prevailed  on  them  to  continue  their  course. 
It  was  now  the  11th  of  July,  and  the  sun  at  mid- 
night was  still  considerably  above  the  horizon,  whilst 


*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  ol. 


-f-  Ibid.  p.  54. 


i' 


•  i 


I  ;■ 


P:S(iUIMAtTX  HOUSES. 


l/D 


imI  to  sonio 

niplcti*  on 

tht'in  tluit 

slain  his 

,  of  a  trilx' 
who  jiisti- 
,vitli  whicli 
w  presents, 
;  and  tlicy 
•e  that  tlu' 
easterly  or 
>  party  now 
;  river  soon 
V  chose  the 
'his  shortly 
ins,  streteli- 
bservation, 
47',  whicli 
their  frail 
)  the  great 
kvlienwith- 
t  object  of 
of  despon- 
lide  plead- 
ll  never  be- 
ll ul  la  Toe, 
ured  them 
t  in  seven 
lieir  course, 
un  atniid- 
on,  whilst 

[id.  p.  54. 


J  ■< 


every  thinu  »lenoted  the  proximity  of  the  sea.  On 
laiidini;  at  a  deserted  ('iicainpnient,  still  marked  by 
the  ashes  of  some  Ks(|iiim{iux  iires,  they  observed  se- 
v<'ral  piecesof  whalebone,  and  a  place  where  train-oil 
had  lieeii  spilt.  Soon  after  they  cam(  to  three  houses 
recently  left  by  the  natives.  The  <,Tound-plot  of 
these  habitations  was  ov.al,  ai)OUt  (il'teen  feet  long,  ten 
feet  wide  in  the  middle,  and  eight  feet  at  either  end  ; 
the  whole  was  duuahout  twelve  inches  below  thesur- 
fac<',  one  iialf  being  covered  with  willow-branches, 
and  probably  forming  the  bed  of  the  whole  family. 
In  the  middleof  the  (,lher  half,  a  space  four  feet  wide, 
which  had  been  hollowed  to  the  depth  of  twelve 
inches,  wjis  the  only  spot  where  a  grown  person 
could  stand  upright.  One  side  of  it  was  covered  with 
willow-branches,  and  the  other  formed  the  hearth. 
The  door,  in  one  end  of  the  house,  was  about  two 
feet  and  a  half  high  by  two  feet  wide,  and  was 
reached  through  a  covered  way  about  five  feet  long  ; 
so  that  the  only  access  to  this  curious  dwelling  was 
by  creeping  on  all  fours.  On  the  top  was  an  ori- 
fice about  eighteen  inches  square,  which  served  the 
triple  purpose  of  a  window,  a  chimney,  and  an  oc- 
casional door.  The  under-ground  part  of  the  floor 
was  lined  with  split  wood,  whilst  cross  pieces  of 
timber,  laid  on  six  or  eight  upright  stakes,  supported 
an  oblong  square  roof;  th<'  whole  being  formed  of 
drift- wT)od,  and  covered  with  branches  and  dry  grass, 
over  whicli  was  spread  earth  a  foot  thick.  On  either 
side  of  these  houses  w'ere  a  few  square  holes,  about 
two  feet  deep,  covered  with  split  wood  and  earth,  ex- 
cepting one  small  place  in  the  middle^  which  appear- 
ed to  be  contrived  for  the  preservation  of  the  winter 
stock  of  provisions.     In  and  about  the  houses  lay 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14530 

(716)  872-4503 


'  .J* 


V^  >?  ^     A. 


w. 


i 


i 


]H() 


DISAPPKARANCi:  (?I    VKGKTATIOX. 


slcdfTo-runiiLTs,  and  l)()n('s,  pieces  of  wlialebone,  and 
poplar-bark  cut  in  circles,  used  evidently  to  buoy  the 
nets  ;  and  before  eacli  liabitation  a  jfreat  number  of 
stumps  of  trees  were  driven  into  the  ground,  upon 
wliich  its  late  possessors  bad  probably  him*;  their 
nets  and  fish  to  dry  in  the  sun. 

The  sifrns  of  vcfjctation  were  by  this  time  scarcely 
perceptible  ;  the  trees  had  dwindled  into  a  few  dwarl" 
willows,  not  more  than  three  feet  hijjfh  ;  and  thouirli 
the  foot-marks  on  the  sandy  beach  of  some  of  the 
islands  showed  that  the  natives  had  n'centlv  bet  ii 
there,  all  attempts  to  obtain  a  si^dit  of  them  proved 
unavailin^r.  The  discontent  of  the  (juicte  and  of  tJK 
Indian  hunters  was  now  renewed  ;  but  their  asser- 
tion, that  on  the  morrow  they  were  to  reach  a  larirc 
lake  in  which  the  Esquimaux  killed  a  hui(<'  fish,  and 
whose  shores  were  inhabit<'d  by  white  bears,  con- 
vinced IMackenzie  that  this  description  referred  to 
the  Arctic  Sea,  with  its  mi'dity  denizen  the  whale. 
He  accordinjily  pressed  forward  with  fresh  ardour, 
and  tliC  canoes  were  soon  carried  hy  the  current  to 
the  entrance  of  the  lake,  which,  from  all  the  accom- 
panying cin  umstanc<'s,  appears  to  have  been  an  arm 
of  the  Arctic  Ocean.  It  was  quite  op(  n  to  the 
westward,  and  by  an  observation  the  latitude  was 
found  to  be  (51)°.  From  the  spot  where  this  survey 
was  taken  they  now  continued  their  course  to  the 
westernmost  point  of  a  high  island,  which  they 
reached  after  a  run  of  fifteen  miles,  and  around  it 
the  utmost  depth  of  water  v»as  only  five  feet.  Tin 
lake  aj)peared  to  be  covered  with  ice  for  about  two 
leagues'  distance,  no  land  was  seen  ahead,  and  it 
was  found  impossible  to  proceed  fiirther.  Ha])pily. 
when  they  had  thus  reached  the  farthest  point  ol 


MA(  KKNZIK   HKACIIKS  TIIK   AIICTK     SJ:A. 


un 


['bono,  and 
0  biiov  tlu' 

• 

number  ol 
and,  upon 
luoir  their 

no  scaroolv 
fow  dwarf 
iiid  tliou<:li 
)nio  of  tli( 
•ontlv  bet  II 

• 

U'ni  proved 
and  of  tilt 

tlieir  asser. 

acli  a  large 

[TO  fish,  anil 

bears,  eoiu 
referred  to 
the  whale. 

esh  ardour, 

eurrent  to 

the  aoeoin- 

een  an  arm 
)( 11  to  th( 
titude  was 
this  survey 

• 

Lirso  to  the 
vliieh   thev 

« 

:l  around  it 

feet.     The 

about  two 

'ad,   and  it 

IIa])pily. 

st  point  el 


their  profrross  northward,  and  were  about  to  return 
in  ureal  disai)pointinent,  two  eircuinstanees  occurred 
whii'h  reiwh'red  it  certain  that  they  I>ad  penetrated  to 
th«'  sea  :  Tiie  first  was  the  apj)earanceof  many  lar<j[e 
tloatiiii:  substances  in  the  water,  helieved  at  first  to  ho 
masses  of  ice,  w  hich,  on  heini,'  approached,  turned  out 
to  be  V, hales;  and  the  second,  the  rise  and  fall  of  the 
tide,  observed  both  at  the  eastern  and  western  end  ot 
the  island,  which  thev  named  Whale  Island.  •  Ilav- 
ini;  in  coini)any  with  the  English  C-hief  ascended  to 
its  hi^diest  •ground,  ^lackenzio  saw  the  solid  ic(?  ox- 
tondiiiif  to  the  eastward  ;  and  to  the  west,  as  far  as 
the  eve  cmild  reach,  they  dimly  discerned  a  chain  of 
mountains  apparently  about  twenty  loaijues'  distance 
stri'tchini:  to  the  northward.  ,Many  islands  were  seen 
to  the  eastward  ;  but  thou<:h  they  came  to  a  ^^ravo, 
on  which  lay  a  bow,  a  paddle,  and  a  spear,  they 
met  no  livin<r  human  bein<rs  in  these  arctic  solitudes. 
Tlu'  red-fox  and  the  rein-deer,  tlocks  of  beautiful 
plovers,  some  venerable  white  owls,  and  several  large 
white  uulls,  were  the  only  natives.  Previous  to 
settinej  out  on  their  return,  a  post  was  erected  close 
to  the  tents,  upon  which  the  traveller  en<Traved  the 
latitude  of  tlie  place,  his  own  name,  the  number  of 
persons  by  whom  he  was  accompanied,  and  the  time 
they  had  spent  on  the  island. 

It  was  now  the  Kith  of  July,  and  they  re-om])ark- 
ed  on  their  homeward  voyajtje.  On  the  21s'l  the 
sun,  which  for  some  time  had  never  set,  descended 
below  the  horizon,  and  the  same  day  eleven  of  the 
native's  joined  them.  They  represented  their  tribe  as 
numerous,  and  perpetually  at  war  with  tiie  Esqui- 

■  Mackenzie,  })[>.  64,  05. 


182 


MACKENZIE  S  RETURN. 


raaiix,  wlio  had  broken  a  treaty  into  wliich  they 
had  inveigled  tlie  Indians,  and  butehered  many  oi 
them.  Oeeasionally  a  strong  body  aseended  tlic 
river  in  large  canoes,  in  searcii  of  flints  to  point  their 
spears  and  arrows.  At  present  they  were  on  the 
banks  of  a  lake  to  the  eastward,  hunting  rein-deer, 
and  would  soon  begin  to  eateh  big  iish  (whales) 
for  their  winter  stock.  They  had  been  informed 
that  the  same  Esquimaux,  eight  or  ten  winters 
ago,  saw  to  the  westward,  on  White  IMan's  Lake^ 
several  large  canoes  full  of  white  men,  who  gave 
iron  in  exchange  for  leather.  On  landing  at  a  lodge 
of  natives  farther  down  the  river,  the  English  Chief 
obtained  some  other  |)articulars  from  a  Dog-ribbed 
Indian,  who  bad  been  driven  by  some  private  quar. 
rel  from  his  own  nation,  and  lived  among  tlu 
Hare  Indians.  According  to  his  information,  there 
was  a  much  larger  river  to  the  soutii  west  of  tlu 
mountains,  which  fell  into  White  Man's  Lake.  The 
people  on  its  banks  were  j*  gigantic  and  wicked  race^ 
who  could  kill  common  men  with  their  eyes,  and 
sailed  in  huge  canoes.  There  was^  he  added,  no 
known  communication  by  water  with  this  great  ri- 
ver ;  but  those  who  had  seen  it  went  over  the  moun- 
tains, and  it  flowed  towards  the  mid-day  sun. 
This  description  proceeded,  he  acknowledged,  not 
from  personal  observation  but  was  taken  from  the 
report  of  others  who  inliabited  the  opposite  moun- 
tains. Mackenzie  having  fallen  in  with  one  of  these 
strangers,  by  a  bribe  of  some  beads,  prevailed  upon 
him  to  delineate  the  circumjacent  country  and  the 
course  of  the  unknown  river  upon  the  sand.  The 
map  proved  a  very  rude  production.  He  traced  out  a 
long  point  of  land  between  the  rivers  without  paying 


I 


11 


NKW  TRIHE  OF  INDIANS. 


las 


vvliich  they 
•('(1  numy  o( 
(•ended    the 
)  point  their 
vere  on  tlie 
g  rein-deer, 
ih  (whah's) 
n  informed 
;en   winters 
lan's  Lake^ 
,  who  gave 
1^^  at  a  lodtrc 
iifrlish  Ciii<'f 
Doft-ril)hed 
rivate  quar. 
among   tii( 
ation,  tlierc 
,west  of  the 
Lake.    The 
kicked  raee, 
r  eyes,  and 
added,  no 
lis  great  ri. 
'  the  moun- 
d-day  sun. 
edged,   not 
n  from  the 
)site  mouu- 
)ne  of  tliese 
mailed  upon 
ry  and  the 
and.     The 
raeed  out  a 
out  paying 


^» 


the  least  attention  to  their  eourses.  This  isthmus  he 
represented  as  running  into  tlie  gn'at  hike,  at  the 
extremity  of  wliieh,  as  lie  had  been  toM  by  Indians 
of  other  nations,  tliere  was  built  a  Jieiiahulla  (-ouin, 
or  White  3Iai/'s  Fort.  "  This,"  says  i^Iaek(>nzie,  "  I 
took  to  be  Oonalaska  Fort,  and  consequently  the  river 
to  tile  west  to  be  Cook's  Uiver,  and  that  the  body  of 
water  or  sea  into  which  the  river  discharges  itself  at 
Whale  Island  communicated  with  Norton  Sound." 

Mackenzie  now  endeavoured  to  jirocure  a  guide 
across  the  mountains,  but  tlie  natives  sti-adily  refus- 
ed  ;  and  any  additional  intelligence  wiiicli  they  com- 
municated re(^ardin<j  the  country  only  consisted  of  le- 
gends  concerning  the  supernatural  p»)wer  a)ul  ferocity 
of  its  inhabitants.  They  were  represented  as  a  sort  of 
monsters  with  wings,  who  fed  on  huge  birds  which, 
though  killed  by  them  with  ea.se,  no  other  mortal 
would  venture  to  assail.  Ilaviiiij  gravely  stated  this, 
they  began  both  young  and  old  to  jump  and  dance 
with  astonishing  violence  and  perseverance,  imitat- 
ing the  cries  of  the  rein-deer,  bear,  and  wolf,  in  the 
hope  of  intimidating  iMackenzie;  but  when  he  threat- 
ened with  an  angry  aspect  to  force  one  of  them  along 
with  him  across  the  mountains,  a  sudden  fit  of  sick- 
ness seized  the  whole  party,  and  in  a  faint  tone, 
which  formed  a  ludicrous  contrast  to  their  i'!)rmer  vo- 
ciferation, they  declared  they  would  expire  the  in. 
stant  they  w^re  taken  from  their  homes.  In  the  end 
the  traveller  was  compelled  to  leave  them  without 
accomplishing  his  object.* 

On  1st  August,  as  the  expedition  approached  the 
river  of  the  Bear  Lake^  the  stars,  which  hitherto, 


*  Mackenzie,  \).  87 


11 


]Hi    .^rACKKNZIE  ('ONCLUDKS  HIS  FIRST  JOrRNKY. 


from  tlw  cxtn'nic  clearness  of  tlie  twilight,  had  con- 
tinued invisil)le,  Ix'ifan  to  twinkle  in  the  sky,  and 
tlie  air  from  bein^^  oppressively  sultry  Ixrame  so 
cold,  that  perpetual  exer.'ise  could  scarc<'Iy  keep  the 
men  \A'arm.  The  women  w<'re  now  constantly  em- 
ployed in  makinjr  shoes  of  moose-skin,  as  a  pair  did 
not  last  more  than  a  (hiy,  whilst  tlie  hunters  brought 
in  supplies  of  j^feese,  rein-deer,  and  beaver  ;  and  on 
one  occasion  a  wolf  was  killed,  roasted,  and  eaten 
with  jrreat  satisfaction.  On  22d  Au^aist,  they 
reached  the  entrance  of  the  Slave  Lake,  after  whicl) 
their  progress  homeward  preser^ted  no  feature  of  in- 
terest,  and  on  12th  September  they  arrived  in  safety 
at  P'ort  ('hepewyan,  after  an  absence  of  102  days. 
The  importance  of  this  journey  must  be  apparent, 
on  considerin(,nt  in  connexion  with  the  expedition  of 
Hearne.  ]5oth  travellers  had  succeeded  in  reachin;j 
the  shores  of  an  arctic  sea ;  and  it  became  not  only 
an  established  fact,  that  there  was  an  ocean  of  great 
extent  in  the  north  of  America,  but  it  was  rendered 
extremely  probable  that  this  sea  formed  its  conti- 
nuous boundary. 

INfackenzie  concluded  his  first  journey  in  Septem- 
ber 17^^J^j  ''lu^  about  three  years  afterwards  under- 
took a  second  expedition,  which  proved  still  mon.- 
difficult  and  hazardous,  and  equally  important  and 
satisfactory  in  its  results.  His  object  was  to  ascend 
the  Peace  River,  which  rises  in  the  Rocky  ^Mountains, 
and  crossing  these  to  penetrate  to  that  unknown  ri- 
ver which  in  his  former  journey  had  been  the  sub- 
ject of  his  unwearied  inquiry.  This  he  conjectured 
must  communicate  with  the  sea ;  and,  pursuing  its 
course,  he  hoped  to  reach  the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 
Setting  out  accordingly  on  10th  October  17^2,  he 


14 


rociiXKV. 

t,  liad  con. 
e  skv,  and 
Ixrame  so 
ly  keep  tilt' 
itantly  cni- 
i  a  pair  did 
LTs  l)r<myht 
r  ;  and  on 
and  eaten 
^ust,  they 
ifter  wliicli 
iture  of  in. 
I'd  in  safety 
•  102  davs. 
I  apparent, 
[pedition  of 
in  reaehins 
le  not  only 
an  of  great 
IS  rendered 
its  eonti- 

n  Septeni- 
rds  under- 
still  more 
ortant  and 
1  to  ascend 
lountains, 
known  ri- 
1  the  sub- 
)njectured 
rsuing  its 
e  Pacific. 
1792,  he 


I 


MA(  KKNZIKS  SECOND  JOUllNEV. 


U}.J 


pushed  on  to  the  remotest  European  settlement, 
where  he  spent  the  winter  in  a  traftic  tor  furs  with 
the  Heaver  and  Kocky  Indians.  Havintr  despatched 
six  caiKM's  to  Fort  Chepewyan  with  the  car<i[o  he  had 
collected,  he  enpifjed  hunters  and  interpreters,  and 
launched  the  canoe  in  which  he  had  determined 
to  prosecute  his  discoveries.  Her  dimensions  were 
twenty-live  feet  long  within,  exclusive  of  the  curves 
of  st<'m  and  stern,  twenty-six  inches  hold,  and  four 
feet  nine  inches  beam.  She  was  at  the  same  time  so 
light,  that  two  men  could  carry  her  three  or  four  miles 
without  resting.  In  this  sleniU'r  vessel  they  not 
only  stowed  away  their  provisions,  presents,  arms, 
ammunition,  and  ba<;gage,  to  the  weight  of  15000 
pounds,  but  found  room  for  seven  Europeans,  two 
Indians,  and  the  leader  liimself.  On  embarking, 
the  winter  interpreter  left  in  charge  of  the  fort 
could  not  refrain  Irom  tears  when  lu;  anticipated 
the  dangers  ihey  were  about  to  encounter,  whilst 
they  themselves  fervently  offered  up  their  prayers 
to  Almighty  God  for  a  safe  return. 

The  commencement  of  their  voyage  was  propi. 
tious  ;  and  under  a  serene  sky,  with  a  keen  but 
healthy  air,  the  bark  glided  through  some  beautiful 
scenery.  On  the  west  side  of  the  river  the  ground 
rose  in  a  gently-ascending  lawn,  broken  at  intervals 
by  abrupt  precipices,  and  extending  in  a  rich  wood- 
land perspective  as  far  as  tlu;  eye  could  reach.  This 
magnificent  amphitheatre  presented  groves  of  pop- 
lar in  every  direction,  whose  openings  were  enliven- 
ed with  herds  of  elks  and  buffaloes;  the  former 
choosing  the  steeps  and  uplands,  the  latter  prefer- 
ring the  plains.  At  this  time  the  buffaloes  were  at- 
tended by  their  young  ones,  which  frisked  about. 


1«() 


TIIK  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS. 


4 


wliilst  tlu'  fciTuilr  elks  wen'  great  with  youiif;.  The 
whole  country  (lis|)l{iy<'(l  an  exuberant  verdure  ;  the 
trees  which  bore  blossoms  were  rapidly  burstinjf  into 
flower,  and  the  soft  velvet  rind  of  the  brandies  reflect- 
ed the  oblique  rays  of  a  rising  or  a  setting  sun,  im- 
parting a  cheerfulness  and  brilliancy  to  the  scene. 
which  gladd<'ned  the  heart  with  the  buoyant  in. 
fluences  of  the  season.*  After  a  few  days  the  air 
became  colder,  the  country  more  desolate,  tlie  track 
of  the  large  grisly  bear  was  discerned  on  the  banks, 
and  the  weather  was  occasionally  broken  by  storms 
of  thunder  and  lightning. 

From  this  time  till  the  21st  of  jNIay,  the  passag« 
was  attended  with  difficulties  that  would  have  dis- 
heartened a  less  energetic  leader.  The  river  beinc 
broken  by  frequent  cascades  and  dangerous  rapids,  it 
way  necessary  to  carry  the  canoe  and  luggage  till 
they  could  resume  their  voyage  in  safety.  On  their 
nearer  approach  to  the  Rocky  i\Ioun tains,  the  stream, 
hemmed  in  between  stupendous  rocks,  presented  a 
continuance  of  frightful  torrents  and  impracticable 
cataracts.  The  dangers  to  which  tliev  had  already 
been  exposed  had  greatly  disheartened  the  men,  and 
they  began  to  murmur  audibly,  so  that  no  alterna- 
tive was  left  but  to  return.  Indeed  there  was  sonu' 
reason  for  this  irresolution ;  by  water  farther  pro- 
gress was  impossible,  and  they  could  only  advance 
over  a  mountain  whose  sides  were  broken  by  sharp 
jagged  rocks,  and  thickly  covered  with  wood.  Mac- 
kenzie despatched  a  reconnoitring  party,  with  orders 
to  ascend  the  mountain,  and  proceed  in  a  straight 
course  from  its  summit,  keeping  the  line  of  the 


*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  pp.  154,  loo. 


PKIIILS  OK  TIIK  JOLHNKV. 


187 


)iinnf.  Tlic 
nluiH,' ;  the 
irst'm<j  into 
lies  iTtlcct- 
il  sun,  im- 

tlu'  scene, 
Lioyant  in- 
lys  th(.'  air 
',  tlie  track 
the  banks. 

by  storms 

tlic  passagt 

I  have  dis- 

river  beinc 

IS  rapids,  it 

uggage  till 

On  tlieir 

tlie  stream, 

)resented  a 

practicable 

d  already 

men,  and 

110  alterna- 

was  sonie 

rtlier  pro- 

y  advance 

1  by  sharp 

ood.  Mac- 

vitli  orders 

a  straight 

ine  of  the 


river  till  they  ascertained  that  it  was  navigable. 
Dnrin*,^  tlieir  absence  his  |)eopIe  repaired  the  canoe, 
whilst  he  took  aii  altitude  whi<'h  ascertained  the  la- 
titude to  be  ij(»'  8'.  At  sunset  the  scouts  returned 
by  dillennt  routes.  They  had  penetrated  through 
thick  woods,  asceiuled  hills,  and  dived  into  valleys, 
till  they  i^ot  beyond  the  rapids,  and  agreed,  tliat 
thoui-h  the  dilliculties  to  be  encountered  by  land 
wer<'  alarniing,  it  was  their  only  course.  Unpro- 
mising as  the  task  appeared,  their  sj)irits  had  risen 
and  their  murmurs  were  forgotten  ;  so  that  a  kettle 
oi'  wild  rice  sweetened  with  sugar,  with  the  usual 
evenini*  regah;  of  rum,  renewed  their  courage;  and, 
after  a  niirht's  rest,  they  j)roceeded  at  break  of  day 
on  their  laborious  journey. 

In  the  first  place,  the  men  cut  a  road  up  the 
mountain  where  the  trees  were  smallest,  felling  some 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  make  them  fall  parallel  to 
the  road  without  separatini>  them  entirely  from  the 
stumps,  in  this  way  forming  a  kind  of  railing  on 
either  side.  The  baggage  and  the  canoe  were  then 
brought  from  the  water-side  to  the  encanij)ment, — an 
undertaking  exceedingly  perilous,  as  a  single  false 
step  must  have  been  followed  by  immersion  into 
the  river,  which  flowed  here  v.ith  furious  rapidity. 
Having  accomplislud  this  labour,  the  party  breath- 
ed a  little,  and  then  ascended  the  mountain  with 
the  canoe,  having  the  line  or  rope  by  which  it 
was  drawn  up  doubled,  and  fastened  successively 
to  the  stumps  left  fo"  this  purpose,  whilst  a  man 
at  the  end  hauled  it  round  a  tree,  holding  it  on 
and  shifting  it  as  they  advanced.  In  this  man- 
ner the  canoe  was  warped  up  the  steep;  and  by 
two  in  the  afternoon  every  thing  had  been  carried 


U\H 


Tin;  v()va(;k  iii;s(  .mmd. 


to  tho  summit.  Mm  were  then  dcspatcljccl  to 
cut  the  roail  onwards  ;  and  the  incessant  hihour  of 
another  day  could  oFilv  j)enetrate  ahout  three  mih's. 
whilst  moufitains  much  more  elevated  raised  their 
snowy  summits  around  in  every  direction.  These, 
however,  were  at  a  distance;  and  another  day's 
exertion  hroufiht  them  throu<,di  a  wood  of  tall  pines 
to  the  hanks  of  tin'  river  above  the  ra|)ids.  IJeforc 
a^fain  emharkiiiir,  JNIackenzie  h'ft  attached  to  a  pole 
a  knife,  a  steel,  Hint,  beads,  and  other  trifles  as  a 
tokenof  amity  to  the  natives  :  and  one<»fhis  Indians 
added  a  small  round  stick  of  jfreen  wood,  chewed 
at  one  end  in  the  form  or' a  brush,  used  to  pick  mar. 
row  out  of  bones, — an  instrument  which  he  explain- 
ed to  l)e  intended  as  an  emblem  to  the  people  of  a 
country  aboundinff  in  animals.* 

They  now  resumed  their  voyage,  en^'losed  on  all 
sides  by  mountains  whose  summits  were  covered  with 

« 

snow,  and  one  of  which  to  the  south  rose  to  a  majestic 
height.  The  air  became  chill  ;  the  water,  through 
which  they  frequ<'ntly  waded  towing  or  pushing 
their  bark,  was  intensely  cold  ;  and  on  JUst  IMay. 
they  reached  a  point  minutely  described  to  them  be. 
fore  setting  out  by  an  old  Indian  warrior.  Here  the 
riyer  separated  into  two  streams,  one  running  west- 
north-west,  and  the  other  south-south-east.  The 
first  of  these  they  had  been  warned  to  avoid,  as  it 
soon  lost  itself  in  various  smaller  currents  among  the 
mountains;  and  the  steersman  accordingly  proceeded 
into  the  eastern  branch,  which,  though  not  so  broad 
as  the  other,  was  far  more  rapid.  The  course  of 
their  journey  now  led  them  through  many  populous 


i 


*  Mackenzie,  \).  181. 


H  K  A  V  K  H  -  S  K  T  T  I,  K  M  K  N  TS . 


m,} 


patched  to 
It  laljour  of 
lircc  miles. 
ais«'(l  their 
II.  These. 
>tli<T  (hiv's 
f  tall  pines 
Is.  IJelorc 
d  to  a  pole 
trifles  as  a 
his  Indians 
)d,  chewed 
)  piek  mar. 
lie  exj)lain. 
r)eople  of  a 

osed  on  all 
veredwith 

a  majestic 

r,  throu^fli 

jr  pushing,' 

Ust  Mav. 
0  them  be- 
Here  the 
ning  west- 
>ast.  The 
void,  as  it 
among  the 

proceeded 
)t  so  broad 

course  of 
\'  populous 


beaver-settlements.  In  some  places  these  animals 
had  cut  down  several  acres  of  large  poplars  ;  and 
they  saw  multitudes  busy   from  sunrise   to  sunset 

•  ft 

erecting  houses,  procurinj;  food,  superintendinif  their 
dykes,  and  goinij  diliifcntly  throuj,di  all  the  labours 
of  their  little  commonwealth.  Perceiving  soon  after 
.1  smoke  in  the  forest  which  lined  the  banks,  and 
hearini,'  the  sounds  of  human  voices  in  great  confu- 
sion, tliey  became  aware  that  they  were  near  an  In- 

■'  •'  ft- 

dian  encampment  from  which  the  inhabitants  wen? 
retreating.  AccordinLily,  on  approaching  the  shore 
two  ferocious-looking  meu  sprung  from  the  woods 
and  took  their  station  on  a  rising  <fround,  brandishing 
their  spears  with  loud  vociferations.  A  few  words  of 
explanation  from  the  interpreter,  and  some  presents, 
pacifK'd  them,  and  Alackeiizie  made  anxious  in- 
quiries regarding  the  nature  of  the  country,  and  the 
great  river  which  formed  the  object  of  his  search. 
To  his  mortification  he  found  that  they  were  unac- 
(luainted  with  any  river  to  the  westward  :  they  had 
just  arrived  over  a  carry ing-j)lace  of  eleven  days 
from  another  stream,  which  was  n(>lhing  else  than  a 
large  branch  of  the  one  the  expedition  was  then  na- 
vigating. Their  iron,  they  said,  was  procured  in  ex- 
chancre  for  beaver  and  dress  moose-skins  from  the 
people  there,  who  travelled  during  a  moon  to  the 
country  of  other  tribes  living'  in  houses,  and  these  in 
their  turn  extended  their  journeys  to  the  ocean,  or, 
to  use  their  disparaging  epithet,  the  Great  Stinking 
Lake,  where  they  traded  with  white  people,  who 
came  in  canoes  as  large  as  islands.  Their  know- 
ledge of  the  country,  however,  appeared  so  vague, 
that  all  hope  of  procuring  a  guide  was  vain,  and  the 
heart  of  the  traveller  sunk  within  him  as  he  felt 


IIX) 


DKSPONDKNCV. 


that  his  favourite  project  was  on  tlic  point  of  hein;; 
iittrrlv  (lisconcertcd. 

Amidst  this  (Icsponchncy  a  faint  hope  remained 
that  th<'  natives,  under  the  inlluence  of  suspicion,  ti. 
midity,  or  from  imperfectly  un(hrstandin;f  the  inter, 
prcter,  had  not  communicated  all  they  knew;  and 
afterani<,dit  sl<'e|)less  from  anxi<'ty  the  traveller  rose 
with  the  sun  to  repeat  his  inijuiries.  At  fu'st  nothing 
satisfactory  could  he  elicited  ;  hut  suddenly  iMacken- 
zie,  whostood  hesidethe  interpreters,  understood  from 
the  few  words  he  knew  of  their  lanyiua^e,  that  one 
person  mentioned  a  ^reat  river,  whilst  he  pointed 
si^milicantly  to  that  which  lay  hefore  them.  On  a 
strict  inquiry,  th<'  interpreter,  who  liad  heen  tired 
of  the  voyage,  and  of  whose  fidelity  some  suspicion 
was  entertained,  acknowledired  that  the  Indian 
spoke  of  a  larj^e  river  whose  course  was  tow.rds  the 
mid-dav  sun,  a  branch  of  which  Howed  near  the 
source  of  the  stream  they  were  now  navifratiujLj. 
This  brancli,  he  added,  it  would  not  be  dillicult  to 
reacli,  there  beiny  only  three  small  lakes  and  as 
many  carrying-places  on  the  way  to  it ;  but  he  also 
insisted  that  the  great  river  did  not  discharge  itself 
into  the  sea. "■  This  last  assertion  was  imputed  to  his 
ignorance  of  the  country,  whilst  a  rude  map,  which 
he  delineated  with  a  piece  of  coal  on  a  strij)  of  bark, 
convinced  them  that  his  information,  so  far  as  it 
went,  was  to  be  relied  on.  A  new  ray  of  hope  now 
arose  ;  and  having  induced  an  Indian  to  go  forward 
as  a  guide  to  the  borders  of  the  small  lakes,  Mac- 
kenzie resumed  his  journey  on  10th  June,  promis- 
ing, if  successful  in  his  object,  to  revisit  these  friend- 
ly Indians  in  two  moons. 

*  Mackenzie,  pp.  'iUIi,  204. 


Jt  of  heiiii; 


'  n'niJiincd 

spicioii,  ti- 

f  the  iiitiT. 

;ii('W ;  and 

ivrlirr  rose 

rst  nothing 

y  IMackcn- 

rstooil  IVoin 

I',  that  one 

he  pointed 

m.     On  a 

hccn   tired 

i  suspieioM 

lie    Indian 

)\V".rds  tlie 

I  near  the 

ia\i^fatin<j. 

di  Hi  cult  to 

8  and  as 

ut  he  also 

ir^e  itself 

ted  to  his 

ip,  whieh 

p  of  bark, 

far  as  it 

hope  now 

0  forward 

<es,  Mac- 

,,  promis- 

se  friend- 


I 


.AIANNKHS  OF  TIIK   INDIANH. 


I!)l 


I 


These  people  wen'  of  low  stature  and  inea^ro 
frame,  owiiiif  prohahly  to  the  dinieulty  of  procur- 
inii suhsisteiiee;  round  faces,  liiLjh  cheek-hones,  hlack 
hair  har)<iin<;  in  elf-locks  over  tlwir  shoulders,  and 
a  swarthy  y*'llow  complexion,  combined  to  give 
them  a  forbiddiiiii  aspe<'t ;  whilst  their  ^farments  of 
beaver,  rein.(h'er,  and  j^round-hog  skins,  dressed 
with  the  hair  outsid(>,  havinir  the  tail  of  this  last 
animal  han^nny;  down  the  back,  mi^ht,  when  seen 
at  a  distance,  occasion  some  doubt  whether  they  be- 
longed to  the  human  race.  Their  women  were  ex- 
tremelv  u<ilv,  lustier  and  taller  than  the  men,  but 
much  inferior  in  cIcanliiK'ss.  Tlu^ir  warlike  wea- 
pons were  cedar  bows,  six  leet  loni,',  with  a  short  iron 
sj)ike  at  one  end,  so  t!)at  they  niiyht  also  be  used 
ass|)ears.  The  arrows  were  barbed  with  iron.  Hint, 
stone,  or  bone,  from  two  to  two  feet  and  a  half  long, 
and  feathered  with  <rreat  neatness.  They  had  two 
kinds  of  s|)ears,  both  (h>uble-e(ljre(l,  of  well-polished 
iron,  and  with  shafts  from  ei<,djt  to  six  feet  long. 
Their  knives  v/ere  of  iron  worked  by  themselves, 
and  their  axes  res<'nibled  a  carpenter's  ;.  'ze.  They 
used  snares  of  green  skin,  nets  and  fishing-lines  of 
willow-bark,  hooks  of  small  bones,  and  kettles  of 
watape  so  closely  woven  as  not  to  leak.  Besides 
these  they  had  various  dishes  of  wood  and  bark, 
horn  a)id  wooden  spoons  and  buckets,  and  leathern 
and  net-work  bags.  Their  canoes,  of  spruce-bark, 
calculated  to  hold  from  two  to  five  persons,  were  pro- 
pelled by  paddles  six  feet  long,  with  the  blade  shaped 
like  a  heart.* 

Pursuing  their  journey  under  the  direction  of  the 

•  Mackenzie's  Travels,  pp.  205,  200. 


1 


]<)2 


CANOK  WRECKED. 


new  ^'uide,  they  readied  a  sinal?  lak^  in  latitude 
54°  24',  wliieh  iMaekenzie  eonsidered  as  the  highest 
or  southernmost  souree  of  tlie  .Un^ngah  or  Peaee 
River.  They  passed  two  other  hikes,  ai.d  a^raui  en- 
tered the  river,  thi.^  navigation  of  which,  from  its 
rapidity  and  the  trees  and  rocks  in  its  chann(!i, 
now  b<'canie  dangerous.  Tlie  canoe  struck  on  a 
sliarp  rock,  which  shattered  tlie  stern,  and  drove 
her  to  the  other  side,  where  the  bow  met  the  same 
fate  ;  to  complete  the  disaster  she  passed  at  this  mo- 
ment over  a  cascade,  which  broke  several  holes  in 
her  bottom,  and  reduced  lier  to  a  complete  wreck, 
lying  flat  upcni  the  water.  All  hands  now  jumped 
out,  and  clinging  desperately  to  the  sides,  were  hur- 
ried several  hundred  yards  through  a  foaming  tor- 
rent beset  wilh  sharp  rocks,  upon  which  they  wen 
every  instant  in  danger  of  being  dashed  to  pieces. 
Being  carried  however  into  shallow  water,  where  the 
canoe  rested  on  the  stones,  tluM,  were  relieved  from 
their  perilous  situation  by  their  companions  on  shore. 
After  this  escape,  a  consultation  was  held  regard- 
ing their  future  proceedings.  Benumhed  with  cold. 
and  intimidated  by  their  recent  dangers,  the  In- 
dians proposed  an  immediate  return;  but  the  re- 
monstrances of  their  leader,  enforced  by  the  usua! 
arguments  of  a  hearty  meal  and  an  allowance  of 
rum,  banished  their  fears.  It  was  next  proposed  to 
abandon  the  wreck,  to  carry  the  baggage  to  the  river, 
which  the  guide  aflirmed  to  be  at  no  great  distance. 
and  there  to  construct  a  new  vessel.  But  as  it  was 
suspected  that  this  representation  was  not  to  be  re- 
lied on,  a  party  was  despatched  to  reconnoitre,  and 
brought  back  a  very  confused  and  unpromising  ac- 
count of  the  country.     It  was  therefore  determined 

ti 


I 


n  latitude 
he  liiijhest 
or   Peace 
I  aijain  en- 
,   from  its 
5   cliannel, 
ruck  on  a 
and  drove 
t  the  same 
iit  til  is  mo- 
il  holes  ill 
ete  wreck. 
)W  jumped 
,  were  hur. 
am  lug  tor- 
they  wen 
I  to  pieces. 
,  wliere  the 
lieved  from 
IS  on  shore, 
d  regard- 
with  cold, 
the  In- 
ut  the  re- 
the  usual 
owance  of 
)roposed  to 
0  the  river, 
t  distance, 
t  as  it  was 
)t  to  be  re- 
loitre^  and 
nising  ac- 
termined 


iMACKENZIK  REACHES  THE  GREAT  RIVER.      193 

to  repair  the  canoe,  and  proceed  as  before.  For 
this  purpose  bark  was  collected,  which,  with  a  few 
pieces  of  oil-cloth  and  plenty  of  gum,  restored  their 
shattered  boat  to  .something  like  a  sea-worthy  con- 
dition. Her  frail  state,  however,  rendered  it  neces- 
.sary  to  carry  part  (.f  the  lading  on  men's  shoulders 
along  the  banks  ;  and  as  a  road  had  to  be  opened  with 
hatchets,  their  progress  was  extremely  slow. 

On  IHth  June,  ^Ir  IMackay  and  two  Indians 
were  despatched  with  orders  to  penetrate  if  possibh; 
to  the  great  river  in  the  direction  indicated  by  i\w 
guide.  They  succeeded  ;  but  returned  with  a  dis- 
couraging account  of  the  interminable  woods  and 
deep  morasses  which  intervened.  These  gloomy  pro- 
spects v;erc  increased  by  the  desertion  of  tlieir  guide  ; 
hut  nothing  could  repress  ^Mackenzie's  ardour.  Cut- 
tinii  a  passage  through  the  woods,  carrying  the  cpnoe 
round  the  rapids  and  cascades,  they  held  on  their 
slow  and  toilsome  way,  till  at  last,  after  passing  a 
swamp,  in  many  places  wading  to  mid-thigh,  they 
enjoyed  the  satisfaction  of  reaching  the  bank  of  the 
great  river,  which  had  been  tlu?  object  of  so  mucli 
anxious  expectation  and  proiracted  hope." 

Embarking  anew,  they  were  borne  along  by  a 
strong  current,  which,  slackening  after  a  short  time, 
allowed  them  to  glide  gently  between  banks  of  high 
white  cliffs,  surmounted  with  grotesque  and  sin- 
iiularly-shaped  pinnacles.  After  some  progress,  the 
party  were  alarmed  by  a  loud  whoop  from  the 
thick  woods  ;  at  the  same  moment  a  canoe  guided 
hy  a  single  savage  shot  out  from  the  mouth  of  a 
small  tributary  stream,  and  a  number  of  natives, 


*  Mackenzie's  Tiavels,  p.  •22t{. 


M 


194 


HOSTILITY  OF  THE  NATIVES  : 


armed  with  bows  and  arrows,  appeared  on  an 
adjacent  rising  ground,  uttering  loud  cries,  and 
manifesting  by  their  gestures  that  instant  deatli 
would  be  inflicted  on  any  one  who  landed.  Every 
attempt  to  conciliate  them  pr'^ved  unavailing ;  and 
a  canoe  was  observed  to  steal  swiftly  down  the  river, 
with  the  evident  design  of  communicating  the  alarm 
and  procuring  assistance.  At  this  critical  moment 
the  courage  and  prudence  of  iMackenzie  providential, 
ly  saved  his  party.  He  landed  alone,  with  two  pistols 
stuck  in  his  belt;  having  first,  however,  given  orders 
to  one  of  his  Indians  to  steal  into  the  woods  with  a 
couple  of  guns,  and  to  keep  near  him  in  case  of 
attack.  "  I  had  not  bo'^n  long,"  says  he,  "  in  my 
station  on  the  bank,  with  my  Indian  in  ambush 
behind  me,  when  two  of  the  natives  came  oflf  in  a 
canoe,  but  stopped  when  they  got  within  100  yards 
of  me.  I  made  signs  for  them  to  land,  and  as  an 
inducement  displayed  looking-glasses,  beads,  and 
other  alluring  trinkets.  At  length,  but  with  every 
mark  of  extreme  apprehension,  they  approached  the 
shore,  taking  care  to  turn  their  canoe  stern  foremost, 
and  still  not  venturing  to  land  I  now  made  them 
a  present  of  some  beads,  with  which  they  were 
going  to  push  off,  when  I  renewed  my  entreaties, 
and  after  some  time  prevailed  on  them  to  come 
ashore  and  sit  down  by  me.  ]\Iy  Indian  hunter 
now  thought  it  right  to  join  me,  and  created  some 
alarm  in  my  new  acquaintance.  It  was,  however, 
soon  removed,  and  I  had  the  satisfaction  to  find  that 
he  and  these  people  perfectly  understood  each  other. 
I  instructed  him  to  say  every  thing  to  them  which 
might  tend  to  sooth  their  fears  and  win  their  confi- 
dence.    I  expressed  my  wish  to  conduct  them  to 


THEY  ARK  CONCILIATED  BY  MACKENZIE.        1}).") 


ed  on  an 
cries,  and 
ant  death 
d.  Every 
iiing;  and 
n  the  river, 
g  the  alarm 
al  moment 
•ovidential- 

I  two  pistols 
riven  orders 
oods  with  a 

in  case  of 
le,  *'  in  my 
in  ambusli 
ime  off  in  a 

II  100  yards 

and  as  an 

3eads,  and 

with  every 

roached  the 

n  foremost, 
made  them 
they  were 
entreaties, 
m  to  come 
iaii  hunter 
eated  some 
,  however, 
to  find  that 
each  other, 
hem  which 
their  confi- 
ct  them  to 


our  canoe  ;  but  they  declined  tills  offer  .  and  when 
they  observed  some  of  my  people  coming  towards 
us,  they  reqiK'sted  me  to  let  them  return,  and  I  was 
so  well  satisfied  with  the  progress  which  I  had  made 
in  my  intercourse  with  them,  that  I  did  not  hesitate 
a  moment  in  complying  with  their  desire.     Duriuij 
their  short  stay  they  observed  us,  and  every  thing 
about  us,  with  a  mixture  of  admiration  and  asto- 
nishment.    We  could  plainly  perceive  that   their 
friends  received  f  liem  with  great  joy  on  their  return, 
and  that  the  articles  which  they  carried  back  with 
them  were  examined  with  a  general  and  eager  cu- 
riosity: they  also  appeared  to  hold  a  consultation 
which  lasted  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  the 
result  was  an  invitation  to  come  over  to  them,  which 
we  cheerfully  accepted.    Nevertheless,  on  our  land- 
ing, they  betrayed  evident  signs  of  confusion,  which 
arose  probably  from  the  quickness  of  our  movements, 
as  the  prospect  of  a  friendly  communication  had  so 
cheered  the  spirits  of  the  people  that  they  paddled 
across  the  river  with  the  utmost  expedition.     The 
two  men  who  had  been  with  us  appeared  very  na- 
turally to  possess  the  greatest  share  of  courage  on 
the  occasion,  and  were  ready  to  receive  us  on  our 
landing ;  but  our  demeanour  soon  dispelled  their 
apprehensions,  and  the  most  familiar  communication 
took  place  between  us.     When  I  had  secured  their 
confidence  by  the  distribution  of  trinkets  among 
them,  and  had  treated  the  children  with  sugar,  I 
instructed  my  interpreters  to  collect  every  necessary 
information  in  their  power  to  afford  me."* 

The  intelligence  procured  from  this  tribe  was  dis- 

■  —J^M.—  .l.  ■      ■ . III  -  I  

*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  pp.  244,  245. 


19() 


AMERICAN  COSMOGRAPHY. 


t'ouraging.  Tlicy  stated,  indeed,  that  the  river  ran 
towards  tlie  mid-day  sun,  and  that  at  its  mouth 
white  people  were  building  houses;  but  that  tho 
navigation  was  dangerous,  and  in  three  places  abso- 
lutely impassable,  owing  to  the  falls  and  rapids. 
The  nations  through  whose  territories  the  route  lay 
they  represented  as  ferocious  and  malignant,  especi- 
ally their  immediate  neighbours,  who  dwelt  in  sub- 
terranean houses.  Unappalled  by  this  description 
Mackenzie  re-embarked,  and  he  was  accompanied  by 
a  small  canoe,  with  two  persons  who  consented  to 
act  as  guides.  Coming  to  a  place  where  some  savage- 
looking  people  were  seen  on  a  high  ground,  it  was 
thought  expedient  to  land,  and  an  amicable  interview 
took  place,  which  led  to  important  consequences. 
On  explaining  the  object  of  the  journey,  one  of  tlu 
natives,  of  superior  rank  and  intelligence,  drew  a 
sketch  of  the  count.vy  on  a  piece  of  bark,  appealiny 
during  his  labour  to  his  companions,  and  accompa- 
nying the  rude  but  perfectly  intelligible  map  by 
details  as  to  their  future  voyage.  He  described  the 
river  as  running  to  the  east  of  south,  receiving  in 
its  course  many  tributary  streams,  and  broken  every 
six  or  eight  leagues  by  dangerous  falls  and  rapids, 
six  of  which  were  altogether  impracticable.  The 
carrying-places  he  represented  as  of  great  length 
across  mountains.  He  depicted  the  lands  of  three 
tribes  in  succession,  who  spoke  different  languages ; 
and  concluded  by  saying  that  beyond  them  he  knew 
nothing  of  the  country,  except  that  it  was  still  a 
great  way  to  the  sea,  and  that  there  was  a  lake  of 
which  the  natives  did  not  drink.'"" 


Mackenzie's  Titivels,  p.  ^o'i. 


OVERLAND  JOURNKY. 


iji; 


!  river  ran 
its  mouth 
,  that  tlu> 
aces  abso- 
id  rapids. 
'  route  lav 
nt,  especi- 
elt  in  sub- 
leseriptioii 
ipariiedby 
n sen  ted  to 
ne  savage- 
iid,  it  was 
'  interview 
sequences, 
one  of  the 
K,  drew  a 
appeal]  nil 
accompa- 
e  map  by 
cribed  the 
ceiving  in 
(ken  every 
id  rapids, 
ble.  The 
at  lengtli 
s  of  three 
niguages ; 
1  he  knew 
vas  still  a 
a  lake  of 


Whilst  the  route  by  water  was  thus  said  to  be 
impracticable,  they  asserted  that  the  road  across  tin* 
country  to  the  ocean  was  short  in  comparison,  and 
lay  along  a  valley  free  from  wood,  and  fre(j[uently 
travelh.'d.  Other  considerations  combined  to  recom- 
mend this  latter  course  to  Mackenzie:  Only  thirty 
days'  provisions  were  left,  and  the  supply  procured 
by  hunting  was  very  precarious.  The  ammunition 
was  nearly  spent;  and  if  the  prosecution  of  the  voy- 
age appeared  perilous,  a  return  would  have  been 
equally  so.  Under  these  circumstances  it  was  re- 
solved to  abandon  the  canoe,  and  to  penetrate  over- 
land to  the  Western  Ocean. 

To  arrive  at  the  spot  w  here  they  were  to  strike  ofl' 
across  the  country  it  was  necessary  to  return  a  con- 
siderable way  up  the  river, — a  service  of  great  dan- 
ger, owing  to  the  shattered  condition  of  the  boat  and 
the  hostile  dispositions  of  the  natives,  wl  o  were  apt  to 
change  in  an  instant  from  the  greatest  friendliness  to 
unmitigated  rage  and  suspicion.  The  guides  deserted 
them,  and  it  became  absolutely  necessary  to  build  a 
new  canoe.  She  proved  better  than  the  old  one,  and 
they  at  last  reached  the  point  whence  they  were  to 
start  overland.  "  We  carried  on  our  backs,"  says 
iMackenzie,  "  four  bags  and  a  half  of  pemmican, 
weighing  from  eighty-five  to  ninety-five  pounds 
each,  a  case  with  the  instruments,  a  parcel  of  goods 
for  presents,  weighing  ninety  pounds,  and  a  parcel 
containing  ammunition  of  the  same  weight ;  each  of 
the  Canadians  had  a  burden  of  about  ninety  pounds, 
with  a  gun  and  ammunition,  whilst  the  Indians  had 
about  forty-five  pounds  weight  of  pemmican,  be- 
sides their  gun, — an  obligation  with  which,  owing  to 
their  having  been  treated  with  too  much  indulgence. 


198 


FRIENDLY  INDIANS. 


tliey  expressed  themselves  much  dissatisfied.  JMy 
own  load  and  that  of  Mr  Mackay  consisted  of 
twenty-two  pounds  of  pemmican,  some  rice,  sugar, 
and  other  small  articles,  amounting  to  about  seventy 
pounds,  besides  our  arms  and  ammunition.  Tlu- 
tube  of  my  telescope  was  also  slung  across  my  shoul- 
der ;  and  owing  to  the  low  state  of  our  provisions  ii 
was  determined  that  we  should  content  ourselves 
with  two  meals  a-day."* 

Thus  laden,  they  struck  into  the  woods,  and  tra- 
velling along  a  tolerably  beaten  path,  arrived  befon 
night  at  some  Indian  tents,  where  they  were  joined 
by  an  elderly  man  and  three  other  natives.  TIk 
old  man  hela  in  his  hand  a  spear  of  European 
manufacture,  like  a  sergeant's  halberd,  which  he 
stated  he  had  lately  received  from  some  people 
on  the  seacoast,  to  whom  it  had  been  given  by 
white  men.  He  added,  that  those  heavily  laden 
did  not  take  more  than  six  days  to  reach  the  tribes 
with  whom  he  and  his  friends  bartered  their  furs 
and  skins  for  iron,  and  that  thence  it  was  scarcely 
two  days'  march  to  the  sea.  He  recommended 
also  that,  whilst  they  retired  to  sleep,  two  young 
Indians  should  be  sent  forward  to  warn  the  different 
tribes  whose  territories  they  were  approaching, — a 
precaution  which  had  the  best  effects.  Another 
pleasing  distinction  between  their  present  hosts 
and  the  other  savages  whom  they  had  passed  soon 
presented  itself:  When  the  weary  travellers  lay 
down  to  rest  the  Indians  took  their  station  at  a  little 
distance,  and  began  a  song  in  a  sweet  plaintive  tone, 
unaccompanied  by  any  instrument,  but  with  a  mo- 


*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  285. 


KKMALE  NATIVE  OF  THE  SEACOAST. 


191> 


fied.     Mv 

• 

insisted  ol 
ice,  sugar, 
ut  seventy 
ion.  Tlu- 
myslioul- 
•ovisions  ii 
,  ourselves 

s,  and  tra- 
ved  befor; 
rere  joined 
[ves.  Tin 
European 

which  lie 
me   people 

given  Lv 
vily  laden 

the  tribes 

their  furs 
as  scarcely 
)mmended 
wo  young 
e  different 
lehing, — a 
Another 

ent  hosts 
assed  soon 
v^ellers  lay 
I  at  a  little 

itive  tone, 

ith  a  mo- 


dulation exceedingly  pleasing  and  solemn,  not  un- 
like that  of  church-music.  The  circumstance  may 
remind  the  reader  of  the  descriptions  of  American 
music  given  by  ]\Ir  JMeares  and  Captain  Burney, 
whom  it  strikingly  corroborates. 

Having  procured  two  guides,  they  now  proceeded 
through  an  open  country  sprinkled  with  cypresses, 
and  joined  a  family  of  the  natives.  The  father, 
on  hearing  their  intention  of  penetrating  to  the 
ocean,  pointed  to  one  of  his  wives  who  was  a  native 
of  the  seacoast;  her  appearance  differed  from  the 
females  they  had  hitherto  seen.  She  was  of  low 
stature  inclined  to  corpulency,  with  an  oblong  face, 
gray  eyes,  and  a  flattish  nose.  Her  garments  con- 
sisted of  a  tunic  covered  with  a  robe  of  matted  bark, 
fringed  round  the  bottom  with  the  beautiful  fur  of 
the  sea-otter.  She  wore  bracelets  of  brass,  copper, 
and  horn,  whilst  her  hair  was  braided  with  large 
blue  beads,  and  her  ears  and  neck  adorned  with  the 
same.  With  these  people  age  seemed  to  be  an  ob- 
ject of  great  veneration  ;  they  carried  an  old  woman 
by  turns  upon  their  backs,  who  was  quite  blind 
and  infirm.  The  country  appeared  well  peopled, 
and  the  natives,  though  at  first  alarmed,  were  soon 
conciliated  by  the  guides.  In  some  places  they  ob- 
served chains  of  small  lakes,  the  valleys  were  verdant 
and  watered  with  pleasant  rivulets,  and  the  scenery 
varied  by  groves  of  cypress  and  poplar,  in  which 
they  were  surprised  to  see  no  animals.  The  inha- 
bitants indeed  seemed  to  live  exclusively  on  fish ; 
and  the  people  of  one  small  settlement  containing 
thirteen  families  were  denominated,  in  the  language 
of  the  country,  Sloa-cuss-Dinais  or  Red  Fish  Men. 
They  were  healthy  looking,  and  more  provident. 


20() 


THE  GUIDES  DESERT. 


cleanly,  and   comfortable,  than  the  neighbouring 
tribes. 

One  of  Mackenzie's  ^Tcatest  and  most  frequent 
perplexities  arose  out  of  the  sudden  fits  of  capri('( 
and  change  of  purpose,  wliich  characterize  most 
savages,  but  none  more  than  the  Americans. 
An  example  of  this  now  occurred :  The  guides, 
upon  whose  fidelity  the  success  of  the  expedition 
mainly  depended,  were  advancing  apparently  in 
the  most  contented  and  friendly  manner,  when,  in 
a  moment,  without  uttering  a  word,  they  sprant; 
forward,  and  disappeared  in  the  woods,  leaving  tin 
party,  who  were  utterly  unacquainted  with  the 
route,  in  a  state  bordering  on  despair. -•  Pushing 
forward,  liowever,  at  a  hazard,  they  perceived  a 
house  situated  on  a  green  spot  by  the  edge  of  a 
wood,  the  smoke  of  which  curled  above  the  trees, 
intimating  that  it  was  inhabited.  JMackenzie  ad- 
vanced alone,  as  his  party  were  too  much  alarmed  to 
second  his  intrepidity ;  and  so  intent  were  the  in- 
habitants  upon  their  household  labours,  that  he  ap- 
proached unperceived.  Nothing  could  exceed  the 
terror  and  confusion  occasioned  l)y  his  sudden  ap- 
pearance. The  women  and  children  uttered.piercing 
shrieks,  and  the  only  man  about  the  place  sprung 
out  of  a  back-door  with  the  rapidity  of  a  wild-cat, 
and  fled  into  the  woods.  Their  dismay  arose  from 
the  belief  that  they  were  surprised  by  enemies,  and 
would  be  instantly  put  to  death ;  an  atrocity  too  com- 
mon among  the  Indian  tribes.  The  conduct  of  the 
man  who  had  fled  was  amusing :  By  degrees  he  crept 
sufficiently  near  to  w  atch  the  party ;  and  on  observ- 

*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  302. 


H 


\J 
(I 
.1 
> 

pr 

CO 

a! 

ar 

of 

lie 

(le 

COI 

to 

ovt 

sill 

fno 

to 

alo 

SWi 

wli 

sen 

W'R: 

pla 
Ilea 
the 

)  iim 
I  the 
I  iair 
I  at  1 

pOS! 

ma] 
a  bi 


TKIIROR  OF  THE  NATIVES. 


201 


glibourin 


t  frequent 
of  caprit'( 
rize   most 
Linericaiis. 
le  guides, 
expedition 
ireiitly  in 
when,  in 
ey  sprant; 
saving  the 
with  tlu' 
Pushing 
erceived  a 
edge  of  a 
the  trees, 
venzie  ad- 
ilarmed  to 
re  the  in- 
lat  he  ap- 
xceed  the 
iidden  ap- 
jd.piercing 
•e  sprung 
wikl-eat, 
rose  from 
[lies,  and 
too  com- 
et of  the 
s  he  crept 
In  observ- 


inij  the  kindness  with  wliich  the  women  and  chil- 
dren were  treated,  came  cautiously  within  speaking 
distance.  His  eyes  wen?  still  staring  in  liis  head. 
Xo  assurances  of  the  interpreters  or  tlie  women 
could  persuade  him  to  return  ;  no  ])eads,  knives,  or 
presents  of  any  kind,  had  the  elTect  of  restoring  his 
coiifidence.  On  being  approached,  he  kept  dodging 
about  behind  large  trees,  brandishing  his  bow  and 
arrows,  grinning  hide(/usly,  and  displaying  a  variety 
of  strange  antics,  till  at  last,  in  one  of  his  paroxysms, 
he  dived  into  a  thicket  and  disappeared.  As  sud- 
denly he  emerged  in  an  opposite  (juarter,  and  l)e- 
coming  pacified,  after  a  succession  of  parleys,  agreed 
to  accompany  them  as  a  guide. 

On  advancing  from  this  station   they  travelled 
over  an  elevated  tract,   and  at  length   gained  the 
summit  of  a  hill,  affording  a  view  of  a  range  of 
niomitains  covered   with   snow,    which,   according 
to  the   guide,   terminated  m  the  ocean.     Passing 
along  the  borders  of  st^veral  small  lakes,  through  a 
swampy  country,  they  arrived  at  a  lodge  of  natives, 
who  received  them  with  hospitality,  and  minutely 
scrutinized  their  appearance.  The  hair  of  the  women 
was  tied  in  large  loose  knots  over  the  ears,   and 
plaited  with  great  neatness  from  the  division  of  the 
head,  so  as  to  be  included  in  the  knots :  some  had 
tiieir  tresses  adorned  with  beads,  producing  a  very 
^  graceful  effect ;  whilst  the  men  were  clothed  in  lea- 
i  ther,  their  hair  nicely  combed,  their  complexion 
]  lair,  and  their  skin  cleanly.     One  young  man  was 
^  at  least  six  feet  four  inches  in  height,  with  a  pre- 
possessing countenance,  and  affable  and  dignified 
manners.     All,  not  excepting  the  children,  carried 
a  burden  proportioned  to  their  strength,  consisting 


202 


REAI^TIFUL  SCENERY. 


of  bcavor-cojiting  and  parclimcnt^  skins  of  th<'  ot- 
ter, marten,  bear,  and  lynx,  besides  dressed  moose- 
skins.  These  last  tlu'v  proeured  from  the  Rocky 
Mountain  Indians ;  and  For  the  purposes  of  tradt 
the  people  of  the  seacoast  preferred  them  to  any 
others. 

They  now  continued  their  journey  through  ii 
beautiful  valley,  watered  by  a  gentle  rivulet,  to  a 
range  of  hills  which  they  ascended  till  surround, 
ed  by  snow  so  firm  and  compact  that  it  crunched 
under  their  feet.  Before  them  lay  a  stupendous 
mountain,  whose  summit,  clad  with  the  same  spot. 
less  coronet,  was  partly  lost  in  the  clouds.  Between 
it  and  the  route  they  were  to  follow  flowed  a  broad 
river ;  and,  descending  from  their  present  ele\  at(  d 
ground,  they  plunged  into  woods  of  lofty  and  umbra, 
geous  cedars  and  alder  trees.*  As  they  got  lower  into 
these  primeval  forests  they  were  sensible  of  an  en- 
tire change  of  climate.  The  guides  pointed  out  to 
them,  through  the  openings  in  the  dark  foliage,  the 
river  which  flowed  in  the  distance,  and  a  village  on 
its  banks,  whilst  beneath  their  feet  the  ground  was 
covered  with  berries  of  an  excellent  flavour,  and 
completely  ripe.  The  effect  of  sunset  upon  this 
noble  scenery  was  strikingly  beautiful ;  but  their 
admiration  was  interrupted  by  the  decampment  of 
their  guides,  who,  as  the  shades  of  evening  began  to 
fall,  pushed  forward  at  such  a  pace  that  the  party 
were  soon  left  without  conductors  in  darkness  and 
uncertainty.  The  men,  who  were  much  fatigued, 
now  proposed  to  take  up  their  quarters  for  the  night : 
but  their  indefatigable  leader  groped  his  way  for- 


•  Mackenzie's  Travels,  pp.  316,  317. 


VILLAGE   IN  TIIK  FORKST. 


203 


.f  the  ot- 
[l  moosc- 
le  Rocky 
of  trade 
n  to  anv 

• 

hrougli  II 
Lilet,  to  a 
mrround- 
criiiit'hcd 
upenclous 
ame  spot- 
Between 
'd  a  broad 
it  de\  ated 
id  umbra, 
lower  into 
of  an  en- 
ted  out  to 
liage,  the 
village  on 
ound  was 
our,  and 
pon   this 
but  their 
pment  of 
began  to 
the  party 
ness  and 
fatigued, 
he  night : 
way  for- 


ward, and  at  length,  arriving  at  the  edge  of  the 
wood,  ])ereeived  the  light  of  several  fires.     On  com- 
ing up  he   entered  a  hut   where  the  people  were 
employed  in  cooking  fish,  threw  down  his  burden, 
and  shook  hands  with   the  inmates,  who  did  not 
sliow  any  surprise,  but  gave  him  to  understand  by 
sinns  that  he  should  go  to  a  large  house,  erected 
on  upright  posts  at  some  distance  from  the  ground. 
A  broad  piece  of  timber,  with  steps  cut  in  it,   led 
to  a  scaffolding  on  a  level  with  th<'  floor ;  and  as- 
cending these,  the  traveller  entered  tlie  apartment, 
pass'ed  three  fires  at  equal  distances  in  the  middle 
of  the  room,  and  was  cordially  received  by  several 
people  seated  on  a  wide  board  at  the  upper  end. 
Mackenzie  took  his  place  beside  one  whom,  from  his 
dignified  look,  he  took  to  be  the  chief.     Soon  after 
the  rest  of  the  party  arrived,  and  placed  themselves 
near  him ;  upon  which  the  chief  arose  and  brought  a 
quantity  of  roasted  salmon.    JMats  were  then  spread, 
and  the  fish  placed  before  them.     When  the  meal 
was  concluded,  their  host  made  signs  which  they  sup- 
posed to  convey  a  desire  that  they  sliould  sleep  un- 
der the  same  roof  with  himself;  but,  as  his  meaning 
was  not  sufticiently  plain,  they  prepared  to  bivouac 
without.     Every  thing  was  done  to  render  their  re- 
pose agreeable  :     A  fire  was  kindled,  boards  placed 
tliat  they  might  not  sleep  on  the  bare  ground,  and 
two  delicate  dishes  of  salmon-roes,  beat  up  to  the 
consistency  of  thick  cream,  and  mixed  with  goos(!- 
herries  and  wood-sorrel,  were  brought  for  supper. 
On  awaking  in  the  morning,  they  found  all  their 
wants  anticipated  in  the  same  hospitable  manner ; 
a  fire  was  already  blazing,  a  plentiful  breakfast  of 
roasted  salmon  and  dried  roes  was  provided,  and  a  re- 


204 


SALMON-FISH  KRY. 


iiali  of  rftsj)l»erri('s,  whortleluTrios,  and  goosi'berrics. 
finished  the  meal.* 

Salmon  was  so  ahundant  in  this  river  that  tlic 
people  had  a  constant  supply.  They  had  lornud 
across  the  stream  an  embankment  for  |)laeinLf  lishini:. 
machines,  which  were  disposed  both  above  and  Ix'low 
it.  For  some  reason,  however,  they  would  periiiii 
no  near  inspection  of  the  weir  ;  but  it  ajuwared  \u 
be  four  feet  above  the  water,  and  was  constructed 
of  alternate  layers  of  gravel  and  small  trees,  iixed  in 
a  slanting  position.  Beneath  it  were  placed  ma- 
chines into  which  the  salmon  fell  in  attemptinii  to 
leap  over;  and  on  either  side  was  a  large  timlxr 
frame  six  feet  above  the  water,  in  which  passai^i  s 
were  left  leading  directly  into  the  machines,  wl'ilsi 
at  the  foot  of  the  fall  dipping-nets  were  successfully 
employed.  These  people  were  observed  to  indulsft 
an  extreme  superstition  regarding  their  iish,  re- 
fusing to  taste  flesh,  and  appearing  to  consider  such 
an  act  as  a  pollution.  One  of  their  dogs  haviiiL' 
swallowed  a  bone  which  the  travellers  left,  was 
beaten  by  his  master  till  he  disgorged  it ;  and  a 
bone  of  a  deer  being  thrown  into  the  river,  a  nativt 
dived,  brought  it  up,  consigned  it  to  the  fire,  and 
carefully  washed  his  hands.  They  would  not  lend 
their  canoes  for  the  use  of  the  party,  having  observ- 
ed some  venison  which  they  concluded  was  to  b( 
stowed  on  board ;  and  they  alleged  that  the  fish 
would  immediately  smell  it  and  leave  them.  Al- 
though generous  in  furnishing  the  strangers  witii 
as  much  roasted  fish  as  they  could  consume,  they 
would  part  with  none  in  a  raw  state :     They  be- 


. 


•  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  318—320. 


SUPKnSTITIONS. 


20." 


)S('l)erri('s, 

•  that  til. 
1(1  formed 
nu  lisirmj:. 
and  below 
.lid  |)(Tin'n 
pjM'arcd  to 
onstructcd 
is,  lixt'd  ill 
laced  inii- 
'iiiptiiiii  t(. 
rg(!  tinil»t'r 
li  passau(s 
lies,  vvhilsl 
uct'cssrullv 
to  indulgi 
r  iish,  re. 
isider  such 
[)gs  havini,' 
1  left,   was 
it ;  and  a 
r,  a  native 
»  fire,  and 
"id  not  lend 
^ig  observ- 
was  to  be 
it  tlie  lisli 
llieni.     Al- 
ligers  with 
|ume,  they 
They  be- 


licved  salmon  to  have  an  invincible  antipathy  to 
iron,  and  were  afraid  that,  if  ^nven  raw  to  the  white 
men,  they  mi<,'ht  take  serious  ofl'ence  at  beinj;  boiled 
ill  a  vessel  of  this  ominous  metal.  In  other  respe<'ts 
nothing  could  exceed  their  friendliness;  and  at  a 
ii(ii:hl>oiiriFJg  \  .il'>g(!  belonijing  to  tin*  same  tribe,  the 
reception  of  Mackenzie  was  if  possible  still  more  kind. 
The  son  of  the  chief  took  from  his  own  shoulders  a 
bduitiful  robe  of  sea-ott<'r  skin,  and  threw  it  over 
tile  traveller,  whilst  the  father  expressed  the  utmost 
salisfa<'lion  in  being  pres(>nted  with  a  pair  of  scissors 
t()eli|)his  beard, — a  pur[)oseto  which,  with  the  eager 
delight  of  a  child,  he  instantly  applied  them. 

The  houses  in  this  vilh^ge  were  constructed  in  the 
same  way  as  those  already  described,  and  r.'mind 
lis  of  the  lively  account  given  by  i\Ir  iVIeares.  At 
a  little  distance,  jMackenzie  observed  some  singu- 
lar wooden  buildings,  which  he  conjectured  to  Ix' 
temples.  They  consisted  of  oblong  squares,  about 
twenty  feet  high  by  eight  broad,  formed  of  thick 
cedar-planks  beautifully  joined.  Upon  these  were 
painted  hieroglyphics  and  figures  of  various  animals, 
witli  a  remarkable  d(^gree  of  correctness.  In  the 
midst  of  the  village  was  a  large  building,  at  first 
snpposed  to  be  the  unfinished  frame-work  of  a  house. 
Its  dimensions,  however,  were  far  greater  than  those 
of  an  ordinary  dvvelling,  the  ground-plot  being  fifty 
feet  by  forty-five,  each  end  formed  by  four  stout 
posts  fixed  perpendicularly  in  the  earth.  The  cor- 
ner posts  were  unornamented,  and  supported  a  beam 
of  the  whole  length,  having  three  intermediate  props 
on  each  side.  Two  centre  posts  at  each  end,  about 
two  feet  and  a  half  in  diameter^  were  carved  into 
colossal  human  figures,  supporting  ridge-poles  on 


206 


INDIAN  MECHANICAL  ARTS. 


their  heads ;  tlie  hands  were  placed  on  the  knees, 
as  if  they  felt  difficulty  in  sustaining  the  weight, 
whilst  the  figures  opposite  to  them  stood  in  an  easy 
attitude,  with  their  hands  resting  on  their  hips. 
The  posts,  poles,  and  figures,  wer*?  painted  red  and 
black,  and  the  carving  was  executed  with  a  truth 
and  boldness  which  bespoke  no  little  advancement 
in  sculpture.*  In  the  mechanical  arts  they  had 
arrived  at  considerable  perfection.  The  chief's  ca- 
noe was  of  cedar,  forty-five  feet  long,  four  wide,  and 
three  feet  and  a  half  deep.  It  was  painted  black, 
and  ornamented  with  drawings  of  various  kinds  of 
fish  in  white  upon  the  dark  ground,  and  the  gun- 
wale, both  fore  and  aft,  was  neatly  inlaid  with 
the  teeth  of  the  sea^otter.  In  this  vessel,  accordiiif[ 
to  the  old  chief's  account,  he  undertook,  about  ten 
winters  before,  a  voyage  towards  the  mid-day  sun, 
having  with  him  forty  of  his  subjects;  on  which  oc 
casion  he  met  with  two  large  vessels  full  of  white 
men,  the  first  he  had  seen,  bv  whom  he  was  kindly 
received.  IMackenzie  very  plausibly  conjectured  that 
these  might  be  the  ships  of  Captain  Cook. 

It  was  now  the  1 8th  of  July,  and,  surrounded  by 
friendly  natives,  with  plenty  of  provisions,  pleasant 
weather,  and  the  anticipation  of  speedily  reaching 
the  great  object  of  their  wishes^  they  resumed  their 
voyage  in  a  large  canoe,  accompanied  by  four  of  the 
Indians.  The  navigation  of  the  river,  as  they  ap- 
proached the  ocean,  was  interrupted  by  rapids  and 
cascades  ;  but  their  skill  in  surmounting  these  impe- 
diments was  now  considerable,  and  on  the  20tli, 
after  a  passage  of  thirty-six  miles,  they  arrived  at 


*  Mackenzie's  Travels,  p.  331. 


MACKENZIE  REACHES  THE  SEA. 


207 


ihe  kuees, 
e  weight, 
in  an  easy 
heir  hips. 
d  red  and 
th  a  truth 
iraneement 
tliey  had 
chief's  ca- 
'  wide,  and 
ited  black, 
IS  kinds  of 
d  the  gun- 
nlaid  with 
[,  according 
,  about  ten 
id-day  sun, 
I  which  ce- 
ll of  white 
was  kindly 
ctured  that 


tlie  mouth  of  the  river,  which  discharges  itself  by 
various  smaller  channels  into  an  arm  of  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  The  purpose  of  the  expedition  was  now 
completed,  and  its  indefatigable  leader  painted  in 
large  characters,  upon  the  face  of  the  rock  under 
whose  shelter  they  had  slept,  this  simple  memorial : 
"  Alexander  IMackenzie,  from  Canada  by  land,  the 
twenty-second  of  July,  one  thousand  seven  hundred 
and  ninety-three."  The  inscription  was  only  writ- 
ten in  vermilion,  and  has  probably  long  ago  been 
washed  away  by  the  fury  of  the  elements  ;  but  the 
name  of  Mackenzie  is  enduringly  consecrated  in  the 
annals  of  discovery,  as  the  first  person  who  penetrat- 
ed from  sea  to  sea  across  the  immense  continent  of 
North  America.  His  return  by  the  same  route  it  is 
unnecessary  to  pursue. 


bunded  by 

IS,  pleasant 

ly  reaching 

imed  their 

four  of  the 

IS  they  ap- 

1  rapids  and 

these  impe- 

the  '20th, 

arrived  at 


208 


FRANKLIN  S  FIRST  JOURNEY. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

Discoveries  along  the  Shores  of  the  Arctic  Ocean. 

First  and  Second  Expeditions  of  Franklin — Voyage  of  Captain 

Beechev. 


The  discoveries  of  Hearne  and  IMackenzie  esta- 
blished tlie  great  fact  tliat  tliere  is  a  iiortliern  coast 
in  America,  waslied  by  tlie  Arctic  Ocean,  which 
forms,  in  all  probability,  its  continuous  boundary ; 
and  they  demonstrated  the  practicability  of  reach- 
ing this  limit  by  passing  over  the  vast  plains  which 
stretch  northward  from  Canada  and  Hudson's  Bay. 
The  voyages  of  Captain  Parry,  also,  which  have 
been  already  detailed,"''  fully  corroborated  this  opi- 
nion ;   and  it  appeared  evident  that  another  expe- 
dition, properly  conducted,  might  reach  this  shore, 
and  more  fully  examine  its  whole  extent.     Such 
an  expedition,  accordingly,  sailed  from  England  on 
the  23d  of  jMay  1820,  its  command  being  intrusted 
to  Lieutenant,  now  Sir  John  Franklin,  assisted  by 
Dr  Richardson,  an  able  mineralogist  and  natural 
historian.    During  the  first  portion  of  their  journey, 
they  followed  the  chain  of  the  great  lakes,  instead 
of  the  more  eastern  track  pursued  by  Hearne,  and 
having  descended  the  Coppermine  River,  arrived 


"  Polar  Seas  and  Rej,nons,  ad  edit.  |).  263—323. 


VOYAGE  ALONG  THE  ARCTIC  SHORES.    200 


on  21  st  July  at  the  shore  of  tlie  Arctic  Ocean,  where 


id  th( 


of  di 


Ii 


^cean. 

of  Captain 

zie  esta- 
ern  coast 
n,  which 
3undary ; 
of  reach- 
ns  which 
n's  Bay. 
ich  have 
this  opi- 
ler  expe- 
lis  shore, 
t.     Sucli 
oland  on 
kntrusted 
sisted  hy 
natural 

journey, 

instead 

ne,  and 

arrived 

|3. 


comnieiiceci  liieir  care* 
tant  as  were  the  particulars  of  tlieir  survey,  when 
considered  in  rehition  to  the  furtherance  of  geo- 
graphical science,  a  minute  detail  is  liere  unneces- 
sary, and  we  shall  attempt  only  a  general  sketch. 

Paddling  along  the  coast  to  the  eastward,  on  the 
inside  of  a  crowded  range  of  islands,  they  encamped 
on  shore  after  a  run  of  thirtv-seven  miles,  in  which 
they  experienced  little  interruption,  and  saw  only 
;i  small  iceherg  in  the  distance,  tliough  tliat  heauti- 
tiil  luminous  elTulgence  emitted  from  the  congregat- 
ed ices,  and  distinguished  by  the  name  of  the  ice- 
blink, was  distinctly  visible  to  the  northward.   The 
coast  was  found  of  moderate  height,  eas}''  of  access, 
and  covered  with  vegetation  ;   but  the  islands  were 
rocky  and  barren,  presenting  high  cliffs  of  a  colum- 
nar structure.     In  continuing  their  voyage,  the  dan- 
gers which  beset  a  navigator  in  these  dreadful  polar 
solitudes   thickened  gloomily  around  them  :    The 
coast  became  broken  and  steril,  and  at  length  rose 
into  a  high  and  rugged  promontor}^  against  which 
some  large  masses  of  ice  had  drifted,  threatening  de- 
struction to  their  slender  canoes.     In  attempting  to 
round  this   cape  the   wind  rose,  an  awful  gloom 
involved  the  sky,  and  the  thunder  burst  over  their 
heads,  compelling  them  to  encamp  till  the  storm 
subsided.     They  then,  at  the  imminent  risk  of  hav- 
ing the  canoes  crushed  by  the  floating  ice,  doubled 
the  dreary  promontory,  which    tliey  denominated 
Cape  Barrow,  and  entered  Detention  Harbour,  where 
they  landed.    Around  them  the  land  consisted  of 
mountains  of  granite,  rising  abruptly  from  the  wa- 
te.'s  edge,  destitute  of  vegetation,  and  attaijiing  an 

N 


210      CAPE  KATER  AND  BANKEs'  PENINSULA. 


elevation  of  1400  or  1500  feet ;  seals  and  small  detr 
were  the  only  animals  seen,  and  the  former  were  so 
shy  that  all  attempts  to  approach  within  sliot  were 
unsuccessful.  With  the  deer  the  hunters  were  niort 
fortunate;  but  these  were  not  numerous ;  and  whiisl 
the  ice  closed  gradually  around  them,  and  tluir 
little  stock  of  provisions,  consisting  of  pen.micaii 
and  cured  beef,  every  day  diminished,  it  was  im. 
possible  not  to  regard  their  situation  with  uneasi- 
ness. Rounding  C'ape  Kater,  they  entered  Arctir 
Sound,  and  sent  a  party  to  explore  a  river  upon  tin 
banks  of  which  they  expected  to  find  an  Esquimaux 
encampment.  All,  however,  was  silent,  desolati, 
and  deserted :  even  these  hardy  natives,  bred  amidst 
the  polar  ices,  had  removed  from  so  barren  a  spot. 
and  the  hunters  returned  with  two  small  deer  aiich 
brown  bear ;  the  latter  animal  so  lean  and  sickly 
looking  that  the  men  declined  eating  it ;  but  theolfi- 
cers  boiled  its  paws  and  found  them  excellent. 

Proceeding  along  the  easterly  shore  of  Arctii 
Sound,  to  which  they  gave  the  name  of  Banki/ 
Peninsula,  the  expedition  made  its  painful  way 
along  a  coast  indented  by  bays,  and  in  many  plam 
studded  with  islands,  till  on  10th  August  tluy 
reached  the  open  sea;  and  sailing,  as  they  imagined, 
between  the  continent  and  a  large  island,  found  tn 
their  deep  disappointment  that,  instead  of  an  open 
channel,  they  were  in  the  centre  of  a  vast  bay; 
The  state  of  the  expedition  now  called  for  the  most 
serious  consideration  upon  the  part  of  their  com- 
mander. So  much  time  had  already  been  spent  iii 
exploring  the  sounds  and  inlets,  that  all  hope  of 
reaching  Repulse  Bay  was  vain ;  both  canoes  had 
sustained  material  injury ;  the  fuel  was  expend- 


ULA. 


TERMINATION  OF  THE  VOYAGE. 


211 


small  deer 
ler  were  so 
I  sltot  were 
1  were  mun 
and  whilst 
and  tluir 
pen.  mi  can 
it  was  ill]. 
itli  uneasi- 
ered  Aretii 
er  upon  tin 
Esquimaux 
t,  desolati', 
bred  amidst 
rren  a  spot. 
1  deer  and  a 
and  sicidv 
mt  tlieoffi. 
client. 

of  Arctic 

of  Baiikis 

>ainful  wav 

nany  plaa> 

ugust  tiuv 

y  imagiiK'd. 

d,  found  to 

of  an  open 

vast  bav: 

or  the  most 

their  com- 

!en  spent  in 

all  hope  ol 

canoes  had 

as  expend- 


ed ;  their  provisions  were  sufficient  only  for  three 
days ;  the  appearances  of  the  setting  in  of  the  arctic 
winter  were  too  unequivocal  to  be  mistaken ;  the 
deer,  which  had  hitherto  supplied  them  with  fresh 
meat,  would  it  was  well  known  soon  disappear;  the 
geese  and   other  aquatic  birds  were   already  seen 
winging  their  way  to  the  southward;  while  the  men, 
who  had  up  to  this  moment  displayed  the  utmost 
courage^  began  to  look  disheartened,  and  to  enter- 
tain serious  apprehensions  for  their  safety.     Under 
these   circumstances   Franklin,   with    the   concur- 
rence of  his  officers,  determined  nut  to  endanger 
tlie  lives  of  his  people  by  a  farther  advance;  and, 
after  spending  four  days  in  a  minute  survey  of  the 
bay,  it  w^as  resolved  to  return  by  Hood's  River  to 
Fort  Enterprise.     Franklin's  researches,  as  far  as 
prosecuted  at  this  time,  favoured  the  opinion  of  those 
who  contended  for  the  practicability  of  a  north-west 
passage.     It  appeared  probable  that  the  coast  ran 
east  and  west  in  the  latitude  assigned  to  JMacken- 
zie's  River,  and  little  doubt  could,   in  his  opinion, 
be  entertained  regarding  the    existence  of  a  conti- 
nued sea  in  that  direction.     The  portion  over  which 
they  passed  was  navigable  for  vessels  of  any  size ; 
and  the  ice  met  with  after  quitting  Detention  Har- 
bour would  not  have  arrested  a  strong  boat,  whilst 
the  chain  of  islands  afforded  shelter  from  all  heavy 
seas,  and  there  were  good  harbours  at  convenient 
distances.      Having   with   much   severe   privation 
completed  their  course,  from  Point  Turnagain  in 
Melville  Bay  to  the  entrance  of  Hood's  River,  they 
ascended  as  high  as  the  first  rapid  and  encamped,  ter- 
minating here  their  voyage  on  the  Arctic  Sea,  during 
which  they  had  gone  over  650  geographical  miles. 


212 


LAND  JOURNEY. 


On  tlic  prospcc't  of  (•ommeiicing  their  land  jour, 
nev  the  Canadians  could  not  conceal  their  satisfac- 
tion;  and  the  evening  previous  to  their  departure 
was  passed  in  talking  over  their  past  adventures, 
and  congratulating  each  other  in  iiaving  at  length 
turned  their  backs  upon  the  sea, — little  anticipating 
that  the  most  painful  and  hazardous  portion  of  the 
expedition  was  yet  to  come.  Before  setting  off,  an 
assortment  of  iron  materials,  beads,  looking-glasses, 
and  other  articles,  was  put  up  in  a  conspicuous 
situation  for  the  Esquimaux,  and  the  English  union 
was  planted  on  the  loftiest  sand-hill,  where  it  might 
be  seen  by  any  ships  passing  in  the  offing.  Here 
also  was  deposited  in  a  tin  box,  a  letter  containing  an 
outline  of  the  proceedings  of  the  expedition,  the  lati- 
tude  and  longitude  of  the  principal  places,  and  the 
course  intended  to  be  pursued  towards  Slave  Lake. 
They  now  proceeded  up  the  river  in  their  canoes, 
and  though  upon  a  short  allowance  of  provisions, 
the  produce  of  their  nets  and  fowling-pieces  fur. 
nished  for  a  few  days  enough  to  ward  off  absolute 
want,  but  they  were  often  on  the  very  brink  of  it. 
Their  progress  was  much  interrupted  by  shoals 
and  rapids,  and  one  evening  they  encamped  at  the 
lower  end  of  a  narrow  chasm,  the  walls  of  which 
were  upwards  of  200  feet  high,  and  in  some  places 
only  a  few  yards  apart.  Into  this^  the  river  preci- 
pitates itself,  forming  two  magnificent  cascades,  to 
which  they  gave  the  name  of  Wilberforce  Falls.  On 
taking  a  survey  of  its  farther  course  from  a  neigh- 
bouring hill,  it  was  discovered  to  be  so  rapid  and 
shallow,  that  all  progress  in  the  large  canoes  seen^ed 
impossible.  Two  smaller  boats  were  therefore  con- 
structed ;  and  on  1st  September^  they  set  off  with  the 


EXTREME  COLD. 


213 


land  jour, 
r  satisfac- 
departuro 
iventuiTs, 
at  leiipth 
iticipating 
ion  of  the 
ing  off,  an 
iig-glasscs, 
)nspicuous 
rlish  union 
•e  it  niiglit 
ng.     Here 
tain  ing  an 
n,  the  lati- 
ns, and  the 
lave  Lake, 
eir  canoes, 
provisions, 
)ieces  fur- 
[f  absolute 
rink  of  it. 
by  shoals 
Ded  at  the 
of  ^vhich 
)me  places 
ver  preci- 
scadeSj  to 
[^alls.   On 
1  a  neigh. 
•apid  and 
es  seemed 
efore  con- 
with  the 


I 


intention  of  proceeding  in  as  direct  a  line  as  possible 
to  the  part  of  Point  Lake  opposite  their  spring  en- 
campment,— a  distance  which  appeared  compara- 
tively trifling,  being  only  149  miles.  Their  luggage 
consisted  of  ammunition,  nets,  hatchets,  ice-chisels, 
astronomical  instruments,  clothing-blankets,  three 
kettles,  and  the  two  canoes,  each  so  light  as  to  be 
carried  easily  by  a  single  man.  But  disaster  attack- 
ed them  in  their  very  first  stage.  A  storm  of  snow 
came  on  accompanied  by  a  high  wind,  against  which 
it  was  difficult  to  carry  the  canoes,  that  were  da- 
maged by  the  falls  of  those  who  bore  them.  The 
ground  was  covered  by  small  stones,  and  much  pain 
was  endured  by  the  carriers,  whose  soft  moose-skin- 
shoes  were  soon  cut  through.  The  cold  was  intense  ; 
and  on  encamping  they  looked  in  vain  for  wood  ;  a 
fire  of  moss  was  all  they  could  procure,  which  served 
them  to  cook  their  supper,  but  gave  so  little  heat  that 
they  were  glad  to  creep  under  their  blankets.* 

Having  ascended  next  morning  one  of  the  highest 
hills,  they  ascertained  that  the  river  took  a  westerly 
course,  and  Franklin,  thinking  that  to  follow  it  far- 
ther would  lead  to  a  more  tedious  journey  than  their 
exhausted  strength  could  endure,  determined  to  quit 
its  banks  and  make  directly  for  Point  Lake.  Emerg- 
ing, therefore,  from  the  valley,  they  crossed  a  barren 
country,  varied  only  by  marshy  levels  and  small 
lakes.  The  weather  was  fine,  but  unfortunately 
no  berry-bearing  plants  were  found,  the  surface 
being  covered  in  the  more  humid  spots  with  a  few 
grasses,  and  in  other  places  with  some  gray  melan- 
choly lichens.     On  encamping,  the  last  piece  of 


Franklin's  Journey,  p.  399. 


214 


FAILURE  OF  PROVISIONS. 


pemmican,  or  pounded  flesli,  was  di.stri])Uted,  witli 
a  little  arrow-root,  for  supper.  The  evenin<;  was 
warm  ;  but  dark  elouds  overspread  the  sky,  and  tiiey 
experienced  those  sudden  alternations  of  clinmtf 
which  occur  in  the  polar  latitudes  at  this  season. 
At  midnight  it  rained  in  torrents;  but  towards 
morning  a  snow-storm  arose  accompanied  by  a  vio. 
lent  gale.  During  the  whole  day  the  storm  conti- 
nued,  and  not  having  the  comfort  of  a  fire  the  min 
remained  in  bed,  but  the  tents  were  frozen  ;  around 
them  the  snow  had  drifted  to  the  depth  of  thret 
feet,  and  even  within  lay  seATral  inches  thick  on 
their  blankets.  Though  the  storm  had  not  abatid 
any  longer  delay  was  impossible,  for  they  kntv, 
every  hour  would  imTease  the  intensity  of  an  arctic 
winter ;  and  though  faint  from  fasting,  and  with 
their  clothes  stiffened  by  frost,  it  w  as  absolutely  ne- 
cessary  to  push  forward.  They  suffered  much  in 
packing  the  frozen  tents  and  bedclothes,  and  could 
hardly  keep  their  hands  out  of  their  fur  mittens. 
On  attempting  to  move,  Franklin  was  seized  with 
a  fainting  fit,  occasioned  by  hunger  and  exhaustion, 
and  on  recovering  refused  to  eat  a  morsel  of  portable 
soup,  which  was  immediately  prepared  for  him,  as 
it  had  to  be  drawn  from  the  only  remaining  meal 
of  the  party.  The  people,  however,  kindly  crowded 
round,  and  overcame  his  reluctance.  The  effect  of 
eating  was  his  rapid  recovery ;  and  the  expedition 
moved  on. 

Disaster  now  crowded  on  disaster.  The  wind 
rose  so  high,  that  those  who  carried  the  canoes  were 
frequently  blown  down,  and  one  of  the  boats  was  so 
much  shattered  as  to  be  rendered  unserviceable. 
The  ground  was  covered  with  snow;  and  though  the 


CRACHOFT  S  IIIVKR. 


2ir> 


mted,  witli 
cnino-  was 
y,  and  they 
of  climate 
his  season. 
ut  towards 
'd  by  a  vio. 
torm  con  ti- 
re the  mtn 
en ;  around 
th  of  tliri't' 
L^s  tliick  on 
not  abated 
tliey  knev, 
of  an  arctic 
,  and  with 
solutely  ne- 
d  mucli  ill 

and  could 
ir  mittens. 

eized  with 
exhaustion, 

of  portable 

or  him,  as 
lining  meal 

ly  crowded 
he  effect  of 

expedition 

The  wind 
anoes  were 
oats  was  so 
erviceable. 
though  tlu' 


swamps  were  frozen,  yet  tlio  ice  was  often  not  suf- 
ficiently strong;  so  that  they  plunged  in  Icnee- 
deep.  A  fire,  however,  was  made  of  the  bark  and 
timbers  of  the  broken  canoe  ;  and  after  having  fasted 
three  days,  their  last  meal  of  portable  soup  and  ar- 
row-root was  cooked.  Each  man's  allowa!ice  at  this 
melancholy  dinner  was  exceedingly  scanty ;  but  it 
allayed  the  pangs  of  liunger,  and  encouraged  them 
to  press  forward  at  a  quicker  rate.  They  had  now 
reached  a  more  liiHy  country,  strewed  with  large 
stones,  and  covered  with  gray  lichen,  well  known  to 
the  Canadians  l)y  its  name  tripe  de  roche.  In  cases 
of  extremity,  it  is  boiled  and  eaten  ;  but  its  taste  is 
nauseous,  its  quality  purgative,  and  it  sometimes 
proGJces  an  intolerable  griping  and  loathing.  The 
party  not  being  aware  of  this,  galiiered  a  consider, 
able  quantity.  A  f;  w  partridges  also  had  been 
shot ;  and  at  night  some  willows  were  dug  up  from 
under  the  snow,  with  which  they  lighted  a  fire  and 
cooked  their  supper. 

Next  day  they  came  to  Cracroft's  River,  flowing 
to  the  westward  over  a  channel  of  large  stones,  that 
rendered  it  impossible  to  cross  in  the  canoe.  No  al- 
ternative was  left  but  to  attempt  a  precarious  pass- 
age over  some  rocks  at  a  rapid ;  and  in  effecting  this 
some  of  the  men  losing  their  balance  slipt  into  the 
water.  They  were  instantly  rescued  by  their  com- 
panions; but  so  intense  was  the  frost,  that  their 
drenched  clothes  became  caked  with  ice,  and  they 
suffered  much  during  the  remainder  of  the  day's 
march.  The  hunters  had  fallen  in  with  some  par- 
tridges, which  they  shot,  and  they  found  enough  of 
roots  to  make  a  fire ;  so  that  their  supper,  though 
scanty,  was  comparatively  comfortable.   Next  morn- 


2l(j 


CONGECATIIAWIIACIIAGA. 


ing  tlicy  puslu'd  forward  with  ardour,  and  pass- 
iid  the  river  Coii};e('atiiawhHciia<^a  of  Mr  Ileariic 
The  country  whieli  lay  before  them  was  iiilly,  and 
i'overed  with  snow  to  a  ^reat  depth.  The  sides  of 
the  hills  were  traversed  hy  sharp  ant,ndar  rocks, 
wliere  the  drifted  snow  filling  up  the  interstices,  pre- 
sented a  smooth  but  fallacious  surface,  which  often 
gave  way  and  preci|)itated  them  into  the  chasms 
with  their  hea\  y  loads.  In  this  painful  and  ardu. 
ous  niainier  they  struggled  forward  several  days, 
feeding  on  the  tripe  de  roche,  which  was  so  frozen 
to  the  rocks,  that  their  hands  were  benumbed  before 
a  meal  could  be  collected,  and  so  destitute  of  nutri- 
tive juices,  that  it  allayed  hunger  only  for  a  very 
short  time.  At  length  reaching  the  summit  of  a  hill, 
they,  to  their  great  delight,  beheld  a  herd  of  musk- 
oxen  feeding  in  the  valley  below ;  an  instant  halt  was 
made,  the  best  hunters  were  called  out,  and  whilst 
they  proceeded  with  extreme  caution  in  a  circuitous 
route,  their  companions  watched  their  proceeding's 
with  intense  anxiety.  When  near  enough  to  open 
their  fire,  the  report  reverberated  through  the  Iiills, 
and  one  of  the  largest  cows  was  seen  to  fall.  "  This 
success,"  says  Franklin,  in  that  simple  and  beautiful 
accou'it  of  his  journey  which  any  change  of  language 
would  only  weaken, ''  infused  spirit  into  our  starving 
party.  The  contents  of  its  stomach  were  devoured 
upon  the  spot ;  and  the  raw  intestines,  which  were 
Jiext  attacked,  were  pronounced  by  the  most  delicate 
of  the  party  to  be  excellent.  A  few  willows,  whose 
tops  were  seen  peeping  through  the  snow  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  valley,  were  quickly  grubbed,  the  tents 
pitched,  and  supper  cooked  and  devoured  with  avi- 
dity.   It  w^as  the  sixth  day  since  we  had  had  a  good 


PIIOVIDENTIAL  SUPPL\. 


217 


md  pass- 
•  IIcariK'. 
Iiillv,  and 
d  sides  of 
lar  rocks, 
tiws,  pre- 
:i it'll  ol'tcii 
10  chasms 
md  ardu. 
M'al  days, 
so  frozen 
)ed  before 
;  of  luitri- 
for  a  very 

• 

t  of  a  hill, 

of  inusk- 

it  halt  was 

md  whilst 

circuitous 

oceediiifjs 

1  to  open 

he  hills, 

"  This 

beautiful 

language 

r  starving' 

devoured 

lich  were 

t  delicate 

^\s,  whose 

the  bot- 

the  tents 

ivitli  avi- 

ad  a  good 


meal.  I  do  not  think  that  wo  witnessed,  through 
the  course  of  our  journey,  a  more  striking  proof  of 
tlie  wise  dispensation  of  the  Almighty,  and  of  the 
weakness  of  our  own  judgment,  than  on  this  day. 
\V{'  had  considered  the  dens<?  fog  which  prevailed 
throughout  the  morning  as  almost  the  greatest  in- 
convenience which  could  have  befallen  us,  since  it 
rendered  the  air  extremely  cold,  and  prevented  us 
from  distinguishing  any  distant  ol)jeet  towards  which 
our  course  could  be  directed.  Yet  this  very  dark- 
ness enabled  the  party  to  get  to  the  top  of  the  hill, 
whi(.'h  bounded  the  valley  wherein  the  musk  oxen 
were  grazing,  without  being  perceived.  Had  the 
herd  discovered  us  and  taken  alarm,  our  liunters,  in 
their  present  state  of  debility,  would  in  all  proba- 
hility  have  failed  in  approaching  tluun.""' 

On  the  following  day  a  strong  southerly  wind  blow- 
ing with  a  snow-drift,  they  took  a  day's  rest,  and  as 
only  enough  remained  of  the  musk  ox  to  serve  for  two 
days,  they  contented  themselves  with  a  single  meal. 
Next  morning,  though  the  gale  had  not  diminished, 
they  pushed  forward,  and  notwithstanding  their  rest 
and  recent  supply  of  animal  food,  the  w  hole  party  felt 
(greater  weakness  than  they  had  hitherto  experienced. 
The  weather  was  hazy,  but  after  an  hour's  march 
the  sky  cleared,  and  they  found  themselves  on  the 
borders  of  a  lake,  of  which  the}'  could  not  discern  the 
termination  in  either  direction.  In  these  circum- 
stances they  travelled  along  its  banks  to  the  west- 
ward, in  search  of  a  crossing-place.  Credit,  one  of 
the  Canadians,  left  the  party  in  hopes  of  falling  in 
with  deer,  but  did  not  return ;  and  on  encamping 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  vol.  iv.  p.  13,  small  edition  of  1829. 


218 


RUFFE  RINGS  FROM  FAMINK 


in  tlio  evening,  hungry  and  rjitigucd,  tlicy  had  i) 
divide  for  suj)per  a  single  partridge  and  some  tripe 
(U)  roche.  This  weed  from  the  first  had  heen  iiiu 
pahitabh',  but  now  became  insupportabiy  nauseous, 
and  began  inmanyto  produce  severe  painsand  bowel. 
eomplaints,  especially  in  IMrllood,  oiu?  of  the  youiiif 
oflicers  attached  to  the  expedition.  This  solitary  par- 
tridge was  the  last  morsel  of  animal  food  that  remain, 
ed ;  and  they  turned  with  dee|)  anxiety  to  the  ho[)c 
of  catching  some  fish  in  the  lake,  but  discovered  that 
the  persons  intrusted  with  them  had  improvidently 
thrown  away  three  of  the  nets  and  burnt  the  floats  on 
leaving  Hood's  River.  Things  now  began  to  look  very 
gloomy;  and  as  the  men  were  daily  getting  weaker, 
it  was  judged  expedient  to  lighten  their  l)urdens  of 
every  thing  except  ammunition,  clothing,  and  the  in. 
struments  necessary  to  guide  them  on  their  way.  Tin 
dipping-needle,  the  azimuth  compass,  the  magnet;  a 
large  thermometer,  and  the  few  books  they  carried, 
were  therefore  deposited  at  this  encampment,  after 
they  had  torn  out  from  these  last  the  tables  neces. 
sary  for  working  the  latitude  and  longitude.  Re- 
wards  alsi;  were  promised  by  Franklin  to  such  of  tlu 
party  as  should  kill  any  animals,  and  in  the  morn, 
ing  they  prepared  to  go  forward. 

At  this  moment  a  fine  trait  of  disinterestedness 
occurred :  As  the  officers  assembled  round  a  small 
fire,  enduring  an  intense  degree  of  hunger  wliieli 
they  had  no  means  of  satisfying,  Perrault,  one  of  th( 
Canadians,  presented  each  of  them  with  a  piece  of 
meat  out  of  a  little  store  which  he  had  saved  from  his 
allowance.  ^^  It  was  received,"  says  Franklin,  "  with 
great  thankfulness,  and  such  an  instance  of  self-de. 
nial  and  kindness  filled  our  eyes  with  tears."  Press- 


CANOK  «WAMF»KI). 


219 


y  had  ii 
)mo  tripe 
been  uii- 
nauseous, 

11(1  1)()W('I- 

[\\v  youiii: 
litary  par- 
it  remain. 
)  tlie  hope 
vered  tlial 
rovidt'iitiy 
le  floats  on 
)  look  very 
12  weaker, 
burdens  of 
md  the  in- 
way.  Tilt 
magnet,  a 
'y  carried, 
neiit,  after 
bles  iieces- 
ude.     Ke- 
uch  of  the 
the  morii- 

erestedness 
nd  a  small 
Mier  which 
one  of  the 
a  piece  of 
id  from  his 
lin/'with 
of  self-de- 
li-s."  Press- 


ing  forward  to  a  river  issuiiiij  from  the  lake,  they 
met  their  comrade,  ('redit,  and  received  the  joyful 
intelligence  that  lie  liad  killed  two  deer.  One  of  these 
was  iinmediately  cut  U|)  and  prepared  for  breakfast  ; 
and  having  sent  some  of  tiie  party  for  the  other,  the 
rest  |)r()cee(led  down  the  river,  which  was  about  liOO 
yards  broad,  in  search  of  a  place  to  cross.  Hav- 
ing chosen  a  spot  where  the  current  was  smooth, 
iiiiniediat«'ly  above  a  rapid,  Franklin  and  two  (Ca- 
nadian boatmen,  St  (iermain  and  Jielanger,  [)ushed 
from  the  shore.  The  breeze  was  fresh,  and  the  ( ur- 
rent  stronger  than  they  imaginrd,  .so  that  they  ap- 
proached the  very  edge  of  tlw  rapid  ;  and  Belanger 
t'mj)loying  his  paddle  to  steady  the  canoe,  lost  his 
balance,  and  overset  the  bark  in  the  middle  of  it. 
The  party  clung  to  its  side,  and  reaching  a  rock 
where  the  stream  was  but  waist-deep,  k(.*pt  their 
footing  till  the  canoe  was  emptied  of  water,  after 
which  Belanger  held  it  steady,  whilst  St  Germain 
replaced  FCranklin  in  it,  and  dexterously  leaped 
in  himself.  Such  was  their  situation,  that  if  the 
man  who  stood  on  the  rock  had  raised  his  foot 
they  would  have  been  lost.  His  friends  therefore 
were  compelled  to  leave  him,  and  after  a  second 
disaster,  in  which  the  canoe  struck,  and  was  as 
expeditiously  righted  as  before,  they  reached  the 
opposite  bank.  iNIean while  Belanger  suffered  ex- 
tremely, immersed  to  his  middle,  and  enduring  in- 
tense cold.  He  called  piteously  for  relief,  and  St  Ger- 
main re-embarking  attempted  to  reach  him,  but  was 
hurried  down  the  rapid,  and  on  coming  ashore,  was 
so  benumbed  as  to  be  incapable  of  farther  exertion. 
A  second  effort,  but  equally  unsuccessful,  was  made 
hy  Adam :  they  then  tried  to  carry  out  a  line  formed 
of  the  slings  of  the  men's  loads,  but  it  broke,  and 


220 


DESOLATE  SITUATION. 


was  carried  down  tlie  stream.  At  last,  when  Ik 
was  almost  exhausted,  the  canoe  reached  him  with 
a  small  cord  of  one  of  the  remaining  nets,  and  he 
was  dragged  to  shore  quite  insensible.  On  be- 
ing stripped,  rolled  in  blankets,  and  put  to  bed 
between  two  men,  lie  recovered.  During  thesf 
operations  Franklin  was  ieft  alone  upon  the  bank, 
and  it  seemed  a  matter  of  the  utmost  doubt 
w^hether  he  should  be  eve^  rejoined  by  his  com- 
panions. "^  It  is  impossible,"  says  he,  "  to  describe 
my  sensations  as  I  witnessed  the  various  unsuccess- 
ful attempts  to  relieve  Belanger.  The  distance  pre. 
vented  my  seeing  distinctly  what  w^as  going  on,  and 
I  continued  pacing  up  and  down  the  rock  on  which 
I  stood,  regardless  of  the  coldness  of  my  drenched 
and  stifTening  garments.  The  canoe,  in  every  at- 
tempt to  reach  him,  was  hurried  down  the  rapid, 
and  was  lost  to  view  amongst  the  rocky  islets,  with 
a  fury  which  seemed  to  threaten  instant  destruc- 
tion j  once  indeed  I  fancied  that  I  saw  it  over- 
wiielmed  in  the  waves ;  such  an  event  would  have 
been  fatal  to  the  whole  party.  Separated  as  I  was 
from  my  companions,  without  gun,  ammunition, 
liatchet,  or  the  means  of  making  d  fire,  and  in  wot 
clothes,  my  doom  would  have  been  speedily  sealed. 
Mycomi)anions  too,  driven  to  the  necessity  of  coa.st- 
ing  the  lake,  must  have  sunk  under  the  fatigue  of 
rounding  its  innumerable  arms  and  bays,  which,  as 
we  learned  afterwards  from  the  Indians,  are  ex- 
tensive.  By  the  goodness  of  Providence,  however, 
we  were  spared  at  that  timCj  and  some  of  us  have 
been  permitted  to  offer  up  our  thanksgiving  in  a  ci- 
vilized land  for  the  signal  deliverance  we  then  and 
afterwards  experienced."* 

*  Franklin's  Journej',  pp.  410,  411. 


TRIPE  I)E  ROCHE  FAILS. 


221 


when  he 
liim  with 
s_,  and  he 
On   be- 
Lit  to  bed 
iiig   tbcsf 
the  bank, 
)st    doubt 
his  corn- 
to  describe 
un  success, 
stance  pre- 
ig  on,  and 
:  on  which 
f  drenched 
every  at- 
tlie  rapid, 
slots,  witii 
it  destruc 
V  it  over- 
ould  liave 
[I  as  I  was 
munition, 
.11  d  in  wet 
ily  sealed. 
,y  of  coast. 
fatigue  of 
whidi,  as 
|s,  are  ex- 
liowever, 
f  us  have 
12  in  a  ci- 
then  ana 


On  setting  out  next  morning,  Perrault  brought  in  a 
fine  male  deer,  which  raised  the  spirits  of  the  party, 
as  it  secured  tliem  in  provisions  for  two  days ;  and 
t!iey  trusted  to  .support  themselves  for  a  third  on  the 
skill  which  they  carried  with  tliem.    Having  ascend- 
ed the  Willinghani  ^lountains,  they  entered  upon 
a  rugged  country  intersected  by  deep  ravines,  the 
passafre  of  which  was  so  difficult  that  they  could  only 
make  ten  miles  with  great  fatigue.     The  deer  was 
now  picked  to  the  last  morsel,  and  they  ate  pieces  of 
the  singed  hide  with  a  little  tripe  de  roche.     At 
lither  times  this  meal  might  have  sufficed;  but,  ex- 
hausted by  slender  food  and  continued  toil,  their 
appetites   had  become  ravenous.     Hitherto  events 
iiad  been  so  mercifully  ordered,  that  in  their  utmost 
need  some  little  supply  in  the  tripe  de  roche  had  never 
failed  them  ;  but  it  was  the  will  of  God  that  their  con- 
fidence should  be  yet  more  strongly  tried ;  for  they 
iio'v  entered  upon  a  level  country  covered  with  snow, 
where  even  this  miserable  lichen  was  no  longer  to  be 
found  I  and  a  bed  of  Iceland  moss,  w  liich  was  boiled 
for  supper,  proved  so  bitter  that  none  of  the  party, 
though  enduring  the  extremities  of  hunger,  could 
taste  more  than  a  few  spoonfuls.     Another  distress 
now  attacked  them :  The  intensity  of  the  cold  increas- 
fd,  while  they  became  I  'ss  fit  to  endure  it.     Their 
Mankets  did  not  suilice  to  keep  them  warm,  and  the 
>liglitest  breeze   pierced  through   their  debilitated 
frames.     ^'  The  reader,"  says  Franklin,  "  will  pro- 
liably  be  desirous  to  know  how  we  passed  our  time 
ill  such  a  comfortless  situation.     The  first  operation 
Htter  encamping  was  to  thaw  our  frozen  shoes,  if  a 

ufficient  fire  could  be  made ;  dry  ones  w  ere  then  put 
"11.    Each  person  then  wrote  his  notes  of  the  daily 


222 


INSUIiORWINATION. 


occurrences,  and  even iiig  prayers  were  read.  As  soon 
as  supper  was  prepared  it  was  eaten,  generally  in  tlu- 
dark,  and  we  went  to  ])ed  and  kept  up  a  cheerful 
conversation  until  our  blankets  were  thawed  by  the 
lieat  of  our  bodies,  and  we  had  gathered  sufficient 
warmth  to  enable  us  to  fall  asleep.  On  many  nights 
we  had  not  even  the  luxury  of  going  to  bed  in  dry 
clothes ;  for,  when  the  fire  was  insufficient  to  dry 
our  shoes,  we  dared  not  venture  to  pull  them  off 
lest  tliey  should  freeze  so  hard  as  to  be  unfit  to  put 
on  in  the  morning,  and  therefore  inconvenient  to 
carry."* 

Hunger,  fatigue,  and  disappointment,  began  now 
to  have  a  calamitous  efTect  upon  the  tempen-  of  the 
men.  One,  who  carried  the  canoe,  after  several 
severe  falls,  threw  down  his  burden,  and  obstinate- 
ly  refused  to  resume  it.  It  was  accordingly  given 
to  another,  who  proved  stronger,  and  pushed  for- 
ward  at  so  rapid  a  rate  that  ]\Ir  Hood,  whose  weak, 
ness  was  now  extreme,  could  not  keep  up  with 
them ;  and  as  Franklin  attempted  to  pursue  and 
stop  them,  the  whole  party  were  separated.  D" 
Richardson,  who  had  remained  behind  to  gather  tri  (  i 
de  roche,  joined  him,  and  on  advancing  they  fouiu.  | 
the  men  encamped  among  some  willows,  where  they 
liad  found  some  pieces  of  skin  and  a  few  bones  of  deer 
which  had  been  devoured  by  the  wolves.  On  these 
they  had  made  a  meal,  having  burnt  and  pounded 
the  bones,  boiled  the  skin,  and  added  their  old  shoes 
to  the  mess.  With  this  no  fault  could  be  found ;  but 
on  questioning  the  person  to  whom  the  canoe  had 
been  intrusted,  it  was  discovered  that  he  had  left 


*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  414. 


CANOE  LEFT  BEHIND. 


2215 


,d.  As  soon 
rally  in  tlic 
a  cheerful 
Aved  by  the 
d  sufficient 
iiany  nights 
bed  in  drv 
ient  to  drv 
11  them  off 
unfit  to  put 
iivenient  to 

began  now 

iperf  of  the 

fter  several 

d  obstinate. 

lingly  given 

pushed  for- 

iiose  weak- 

p  up  with 

pursue  and 

irated.    D- 

gathertri.M 

they  fouiUi 

where  they 

ones  of  deer 

Oii  these 

id  pounded 

'ir  old  shoes 

found ;  but 

canoe  had 

he  had  left 


IJie  boat  behind,  it  having,  as  he  said,  been  broken 
by  a  fall  and  rendered  entirely  useless. 

To  the  infatuated  obstinacy  of  the  men  in  refus- 
ing to  retrace  their  steps  and  fetch  it,  even  in  its 
shattered  state,  is  to  be  ascribed  much  of  the  distress 
of  their  subsequent  journey.  Every  argument  and 
entreaty  seemed  entirely  thrown  away;  and  they 
iiad  apparently  lost  all  hope  of  being  preserved. 
When  the  hunters  who  had  been  out  for  some 
time  did  not  make  their  appearance,  they  became 
furious  at  the  idea  of  having  been  deserted,  and 
tlirowung  down  their  bundles,  declared  they  would 
Follow  them  ?t  all  hazards,  and  leave  the  weakest 
to  keep  up  as  they  best  could.  The  remonstrances 
of  the  officers  at  length  opened  their  minds  to 
tlie  madness  of  such  a  scheme ;  and  on  encamping 
in  the  evening,  they  found  some  pines  seven  or  eight 
feet  high,  which  furnished  a  comfortable  fire,  when 
they  made  their  supper  on  tripe  de  roche.  Next 
morning  a  herd  of  deer  came  in  sight,  and  they 
killed  five, — a  supply  which,  considering  the  extre- 
mity of  hunger  and  despair  to  which  they  were  re- 
duced, was  especially  providential.  It  was  evident 
diat  He,  without  whom  not  a  sparrow  falls  to  the 
ground,  was  with  them  in  their  extremity  of  dis- 
tress ;  andj  casting  themselves  upon  his  care,  every 
lieart  expanded  with  hope  and  gratitude. 

The  Canadians  now  earnestly  petitioned  for  a  day's 
rest.  They  pleaded  their  recent  sufferings,  and  that 
the  enjoyment  of  two  substantial  meals,  after  eight 
days'  famine,  would  enable  them  to  press  forward 
more  vigorously.  The  flesh,  the  skins,  and  even 
the  stomachs  of  the  deer,  were  accordingly  equally 
divided  among  the  party,  and  some  of  them  suffered 


224 


THE  COPPERMINE  RIVER. 


severely  from  too  free  an  indulgence  in  the  use  of 
this  food  after  so  long  an  abstinence.  Next  morn- 
ing the  party  resumed  their  journey,  and  after  a 
walk  of  three  miles  came  to  the  Coppermine  River. 
Its  current  was  strong,  but  with  a  canoe  there 
would  have  been  no  difficulty  in  crossing ;  and  the 
reckless  follv  of  the  men  in  abandoning  their  onlv 
means  of  transport  was  now  brought  strongly  to  their 
mind.  No  ford  could  be  discovered,  and  the  plan 
was  suggested  of  framing  a  vessel  of  willows,  co. 
vered  with  the  canvass  of  the  tent ;  but  the  most 
experienced  boatmen  declared  the  willo^-s  were 
too  small  to  bear  the  weight;  and  no  pines  could 
1)0  found.  Nothing  remained  but  to  resume  their 
march  along  the  borders  of  the  lake;  and  looking 
out  eagerly,  but  in  vain,  for  some  fordable  place,  they 
encamped  at  the  east  end.  Anxious  to  adopt  every 
possible  means  for  preserving  the  party,  Franklin 
sent  Mr  Back  forward  witli  the  interpreters  to  hmit. 
He  was  directed  to  halt  at  the  first  pines  and  con- 
struct a  raft;  and  if  his  hunters  had  killed  animals 
sufficient  to  provision  them,  he  was  to  cross  imme- 
diately and  send  the  Indians  with  supplies  of  meat 
to  the  party  behind. 

At  this  time  it  was  discovered  that  two  of  the 
men  had  stolen  part  of  the  officers'  provision,  though 
it  had  been  doled  out  with  the  strictest  impartiality, 
and  they  saw  their  leaders  suffering  more  acutely 
than  themselves.  To  punish  this  w^as  impossible, 
except  by  the  threat  that  they  should  forfeit  their 
wages,  which  produced  little  effect.  Despondency 
had  deeply  seized  upon  the  party,  and  in  the  morn- 
ing strict  orders  could  not  prevent  them  from  strag- 
gling in  search  of  the  remains  of  animals ;  in  coiise- 


mg 


b 


A  RAFT  CONSTRUCTED. 


22;! 


lie  use  of 
(ct  morii- 
d  after  a 
ne  River. 
iioe  there 
;  and  tlu' 
heir  only 
ly  to  their 
[  the  plan 
Hows,  co- 
L  the  most 
0V7S    were 
ines  eould 
ume  their 
id  looking 
place,  they 
dopt  every 
.  Franklin 
?rs  to  hunt. 
s  and  con- 
■d  animals 
OSS  imme- 
|es  of  meat 

[wo  of  the 
)u, though 
ipartiality, 
Ire  acutely 
jmpossihle, 
Jrfeit  their 
Ispondency 
Itliemorn- 
^om  strag- 
in  conse- 


quence of  which  niueli  time  was  lost  in  halting,  and 
ammunition  in  firing  guns  to  collect  them.     The 
snow,  however,  had  disappeared,  and  pressing  for- 
ward with  more  alacrity  they  came  to  an  arm  of 
the  lake  running  north-east.     The  idea  of  making 
the  long  circuit  round  it  was  distressing,  and  hav- 
ing halted  to  consult  what  was  to  be  done,  some 
one  discovered  in  a  cliff  the  carcass  of  a  deer  which 
had  fallen  into  a  chasm.     It  was  quite  putrid,  but 
even  in  that   state  appeared  delicious,   and  a  fire 
being  kindled,  a  large  portion  was  rapidly  devour- 
ed; whilst  the  men,  cheered  by  this   unexpected 
breakfast,  regained  their  confidence,  and  requested 
leave  to  return  to  the  rapid,  insisting  on  the  prac- 
ticability of  making  a  sufficiently  strong  raft  of  wil- 
lows, though  they  had  formerly  pronounced  it  im- 
possible.    Their  advice  was  followed ;  and  having 
sent  off  Augustus,  one  of  the  interpreters,  to  inform 
Mr  Back  of  this  change  of  plan,  they  commenced 
their  retrograde  movement,  and  encamped  at  night 
jinadeep  valley  among  some  large  willows,  where 
they  supped  on  the  remains  of  the  putrid  deer. 

Next  day  they  regained  the  rapids,  commenced 
K'Utting  willows  for  the  raft,  and  a  reward  of  300 
livres  was  promised  by  Franklin  to  the  person  who 
should  convey  a  line  across  the  river  strong  enough 
jlo  manage  the  raft  and  transport  the  party.  The 
willows  when  cut  were  bound  into  fagots,  and 
the  work  completed ;  but  the  greenness  of  the  wood 
rendered  it  heavy,  and  incapal)le  of  supporting 
more  than  one  man  at  a  time.  Still  they  hoped  to 
be  able  to  cross ;  but  all  depended  on  getting  a  line 
karried  to  the  opposite  bank,  through  a  current  130 
[yards  wide,  strong,  deep,  and  intensely  cold.    Belan- 

o 


226 


ItlCIIARDSON  S  GENEROSITY. 


ger  and  Benoit,  the  two  strongest  men  of  the  party, 
repeatedly  attempted  to  take  the  raft  over,  but  for 
want  of  oars  were  driven  back.  The  tent-staves  were 
then  tied  together,  and  formed  a  strong  pole ;  but 
it  was  not  long  enough  to  reach  the  bottom  even  at 
a  short  distance  from  the  shore.  Dr  Richardson 
next  produced  a  paddle  he  had  brought  from  the 
coast,  but  which  was  found  not  powerful  enough  to 
impel  the  raft  against  a  strong  breeze.  Tlie  failure  of 
every  attempt  occasioned  a  deep  despondency,  which 
threatened  to  have  the  most  fatal  effects,  when  Dr 
Richardson,  with  a  disinterested  courage  that  made 
him  forget  his  own  weakness,  threw  off  his  upper 
garments,  and  attempted  to  swim  with  a  rope  to  the 
opposite  bank.  Plunging  in  witli  the  line  round 
his  middle  he  at  first  made  some  way,  but  the  ex. 
treme  cold  was  too  much  for  him,  and  in  a  few  nic 
ments  his  arms  became  powerless ;  still,  being  an 
expert  swimmer,  he  not  only  kept  himself  afloat, 
but  made  way  by  turning  on  his  back  and  using 
his  legs,  so  that  he  had  nearly  reached  the  other 
side,  when,  to  the  inexpressible  anguish  of  those  who 
watched  his  progress,  his  limbs  became  benumbed, 
and  he  sank.  All  hands  now  hauled  on  the  line, 
and  drew  him  ashore  almost  lifeless ;  but,  placed 
l)efore  a  fire  of  willows  and  stript  of  his  wet  clothes, 
he  gradually  revived  enough  to  give  directions  as  to 
the  mode  of  treating  him.  His  thin  and  emaciated 
limbs,  which  were  now  exposed  to  view,  produced  an 
involuntary  exclamation  of  compassion  and  surprise: 
— "Ah,  que  nous  sommes  maigres !"  said  the  French 
Canadians ;  but  it  is  probable  that  few  of  them 
would  have  presented  so  gaunt  and  attenuated  an 
appearance  as  the  brave  and  excellent  man  wlio  had 


ACCUMULATED  SUFFERINGS. 


227 


le  party, 
but  for 
ives  were 
)ole;  but 
a  even  at 
ichardsoii 
from  the 
enough  to 
failure  of 
cy,  wliieh 
when  Dr 
that  made 
his  upper 
•ope  to  the 
ine  round 
It  the  ex- 
a  few  mo. 
being  an 
self  afloat, 
and  using 
the  other 
those  who 
enurnbed. 
In  the  line, 
lUt,  placed 
et  clothes, 
;tions  as  to 
emaciated 
Iroduced  an 
d  surprise: 
the  French 
of  them 
nuated  an 
n  who  had 


thus  nearly  fallen  a  sacrifice  to  his  humanity,  for  it 
was  discovered  about  this  time  that  the  hunters 
were  in  the  practice  of  withholding  the  game  which 
they  shot,  and  devouring  it  in  secret.* 

Soon  after  this  the  party  were  joined  by  Mr  Back, 
who  had  traced  the  lake  about  fifteen  miles  farther  up 
without  discovering  any  place  where  it  was  possible 
to  get  across  ;  and  towards  evening  Credit,  who  had 
been  out  hunting,  returned  without  any  game  of 
liis  own  killing  ;  but  brought  the  antlers  and  back- 
lione  of  a  deer  shot  during  the  summer.     These  re- 
hcs  had  been  already  picked  clean  by  the  wolves 
and  birds  of  prey,  but  the  marrow  remained  in  the 
spine ;  and  though  completely  putrid,  and  so  acrid 
as  to  excoriate  the  lips,  it  was  not  the  less  accept-- 
able.     The  bones  were  rendered  friable  by  burning, 
and  the  whole  eagerly  devoured.     St  Germain,  one 
of  the  voyagers,  now  suggested  that  a  canoe  might 
l)e  made  of  the  painted  canvass  used  to  wrap  up  the 
bedding,  and  offered  to  construct  it  upon  a  frame- 
work of  willows.     For  this  purpose  he  and  Adam 
removed  to  a  clump   of  willows,  whilst  another 
party  proceeded  to  the  spot  where  they  had  en- 
camped on  the  25th,  to  collect  pitch  amongst  the 
small  pines  to  pay  over   the   seams.     A  snow- 
storm at  this  moment  came  on,  and  the  sufferings 
of  the  men  hourly  increasing,  a  deep  gloom  settled 
upon  their  spirits.     Mr  Hood  was  by  this   time 
reduced   to  a  perfect  shadow ;    IVIr  Back  requir- 
ed the  support  of  a  stick ;   Dr  Richardson  was 
lame ;  and  Franklin  so  feeble,  that,  after  a  struggle 
of  three  hours,  he  found  himself  utterly  unable  to 
reach  the  spot  where  St  Germain  was  at  work,  a 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  pp.  423,  424. 


228 


THE  RIVER  CROSSED. 


distance  of  only  tlircc  quarters  of  a  mile,  and  re- 
turned  completely  exhausted.  The  Canadian  voy- 
agers liad  now  fallen  into  a  state  of  despondency 
which  bordered  on  despair,  and,  indifferent  to  their 
fate,  refused  to  make  the  slightest  exertion.  The  of. 
ficers  were  unable  to  undergo  th<'  labour  of  gathering 
the  tripe  de  ruche,  and  Samandre,  the  cook,  sullenly 
declined  continuing  his  labours.  At  this  miserable 
crisis  the  conduct  of  John  Hepburn,an  English  sailor, 
was  especially  admirable,  j)resenting  a  striking  con. 
trast  to  the  gloomy  selfishness  of  the  Canadians. 
His  firm  reliance  on  the  watchful  goodness  of  God, 
and  a  cheerful  resignation  to  his  will,  never  for  a 
moment  forsook  him ;  and,  animated  by  this  bless- 
ed principle,  his  strength  appeared  to  be  preserved 
as  the  means  of  saving  the  party.  He  collected  the 
tripe  de  roche  for  the  officers'  mess,  cooked  and 
served  it  out,  and  showed  the  most  indefatigable 
zeal  in  his  efforts  to  alleviate  their  sufferings. 

A  gleam  of  hope  at  length  arose,  when  St  Germain 
completed  the  canoe.  It  was  impossible  not  to  feel 
that  their  last  cliance  of  escape  seemed  to  hang  upon 
this  little  bark ; — would  it  prove  sufficient  for  its 
purpose?  or,  constructed  of  such  wretched  materials, 
would  it  not  at  once  sink  to  the  bottom  ?  Amid  this 
conflict  of  contending  emotions  it  was  launched  on 
the  river,  and  every  heart  bounded  with  exultation 
when  it  floated  and  St  Germain  transported  himself 
to  the  opposite  side.  It  was  drawn  back,  and,  one 
by  one,  the  whole  party  were  ferried  over,  though, 
from  the  leaky  state  of  the  little  bark,  their  gar- 
ments  and  bedding  were  completely  drenched. 
Franklin  immediately  despatched  Mr  Back  and 
three  men  to  push  on  to  Fort  Enterprise  in  searcli 


SLOW  PROGRESS. 


229 


I',  and  rc- 
idiaii  vov- 
spondcncy 
nt  to  tlu'ir 
11.  The  of- 
f  gathering 
k,  sulk'iilv 
i  miserable 
irlish  sailor, 
rikiiig  con- 
Canadians. 
:iss  of  God, 
lever  for  a 
'  tills  bless- 
3  preserved 
olleeted  tlif 
?ooked  and 
idefatigable 
ings. 

5t  Germain 

not  to  feel 

hang  upon 

lent  for  its 

materials, 

Amid  this 

lunched  on 

exultation 

ted  himself 

k,  and,  one 

er,  though, 

their  gar- 

drenched. 

Back  and 

e  in  searcli 


of  the  Indians,  whilst  he  himself  followed  with 
the  rest. 

Nothing  could  exceed  the  joy  of  the  Canadian 
voyagers  at  this  unlooked-for  deliverance.  Their 
spirits  rose  from  the  deepest  despondency  into  tu- 
multuous exultation.  They  shook  the  officers  by  the 
hand,  cried  out  that  their  worst  diiliculties  were  at 
an  end,  and  expressed  a  confident  hope  of  being  able 
to  reach  Fort  Enterprise  in  the  course  of  a  few  days, 
— a  boisterous  and  sudden  confidence,  to  which  the 
silent  gratitude  and  quiet  resolution  of  the  pious 
Hepburn  presented  a  striking  contrast. 

Their  tents  and  bedclothes  were  so  much  frozen, 
;md  the  men,  who  had  kindled  a  small  fire,  so  weary, 
that  it  was  eight  in  the  morning  before  the  bundles 
were  packed,  and  the  party  set  forward.  They  tra- 
velled in  single  files,  each  at  a  small  distance  from 
his  neighbour.  Mr  Hood,  who  was  now  nearly 
exhausted,  was  obliged  to  walk  at  a  gentle  pace  in 
the  rear,  Dr  Richardson  kindly  keeping  beside 
him;  whilst  Franklin  led  the  foremost  men,  that 
he  miglit  make  them  halt  occasionally  till  the  strag- 
glers came  up.  Credit,  hitherto  one  of  tlieir  most 
active  hunters,  became  lamentably  WTak  from  the 
effects  of  tripe  de  roche  on  his  constitution,  and  Vail- 
lant,  from  the  same  cause,  was  getting  daily  more 
emaciated.  They  only  advanced  six  miles  during 
the  day,  and  at  night  satisfied  the  cravings  of  hun- 
ger by  a  small  quantity  of  tripe  de  roche  mixed  up 
with  some  scraps  of  roasted  leather.  During  the 
night  the  wind  increased  to  a  strong  gale,  which 
continuing  next  day,  besides  being  piercingly  cold, 
filled  the  atmosphere  with  a  thick  snow-drift.  Hav- 
ing boiled  and  eaten  the  remains  of  their  old  shoes. 


230 


TWO  BIEN  LKFT  IN  THE  SNOW. 


and  every  shred  of  leather  whieli  eould  be  pieked 
up,  they  set  forward  at  nine  over  bleak  liills  sepa- 
rated by  equally  barren  valleys. 

In  this  manner  they  journeyed  till  noon,  not 
without  much  strangling  and  frequent  halts,  at 
which  time  Samandre  came  up  with  the  melancholy 
news  that  Credit  and  Vaillant  had  dropt  down  and 
were  utterly  unable  to  proceed.  Dr  Richardson  went 
back,  and  discovering  Vaillant  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  in  the  rear,  assured  him  that  a  fire  was  kindled 
a  little  way  on,  and  that  he  would  recover  if  he 
could  but  reach  it ;  the  poor  fellow  struggled  up  on 
his  feet,  and  feebly  tried  to  advance,  but  fell  down 
every  step  in  the  deep  snow.  Leaving  him,  Dr  Rich- 
ardson retraced  his  steps  about  a  mile  farther  in  a 
fruitless  search  for  Credit.  In  returning  he  passed 
Vaillant,  who  had  fallen  down,  utterly  unable  to 
renew  his  efforts  to  rejoin  the  party.  Belanger  went 
back  to  carry  his  burden  and  assist  him  to  the  fire; 
but  the  cold  had  produced  such  a  numbness  that  he 
eould  not  speak  or  make  the  slightest  exertion.  The 
stoutest  of  the  party  were  now  implored  to  make  a 
last  effort  to  transport  him  to  the  fire,  but  declared 
themselves  utterly  unable  for  the  task.  They  eager- 
ly  requested  leave  to  throw  down  their  loads,  and 
proceed  with  the  utmost  speed  to  Fort  Enterprise,— 
a  scheme  projected  in  the  despair  of  the  moment,  and 
which  must  have  brought  destruction  upon  the  whole. 

Matters  had  now  reached  a  dreadful  crisis ;  it 
was  necessary  to  come  to  an  immediate  decision 
regarding  their  ultimate  measures,  and  a  plan  pro- 
posed by  ]Mr  Hood  and  Dr  Richardson  was  adopted. 
These  gentlemen  consented  to  remain  with  a  single 
attendant  at  the  first  spot  where  there  were  sufficient 


RICHARDSON  AND  HOOD  REMAIN. 


231 


firewood  and  tripe  de  roclie  for  ten  days'  eonsump- 
tion,  wliilst  Franklin  and  the  rest  were  to  proeeed 
with  all  expedition  to  Fort  Enterprise,  and   send 
immediate  assistance.    This  scheme  promised  to  re- 
lieve tliem  of  a  considerable  portion  of  their  burdens, 
—for  one  of  tlie  tents  and  various  other  articles  were 
to  be  left;  and  it  gave  poor  Credit  and  Vaillant  a 
fairer  opportunity,  should  they  revive,  of  regaining 
their  companions.     On  the  resolution  being  commu- 
nicated to  the  men,  they  were  cheered  with  the  pros- 
pect of  an  alleviation  of  their  misery,  and  pressed 
forward  in  search  of  a  convenient  spot  for  the  pro- 
posed separation.      Near  nightfall  they  encamped 
under  the  lee  of  a  hill  amongst  some  willows,  which 
furnished  a  small  fire,  but  not  sufficiently  strong 
to  thaw  their  frozen  clothes  ;   and  no  tripe  de  roche 
having  been  found  during  the  day,  they  lay  down 
hungry,  cold,  and  full  of  the  gloomiest  apprehensions, 
wliilst  sleep  fled  from  their  eyelids,  and  the  images 
of  their  dying  companions  rose  before  their  imagina- 
tion in  colours   which  made  them   shudder   for  a 
fate  that  might  so  soon  become  their  own.*     Next 
morning  the  weather  providentially  was  mild,  and 
setting  out  at  nine  they  arrived  towards  noon  at  a 
thicket  of  willows,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  some 
rocks  bearing  a  pretty  full  supply  of  tripe  de  rv,^he. 
Here  Dr  Richardson  and  Mr  Hood  determined  to 
remain.     The  tent  was  pitched,  a  barrel  of  ammu- 
nition and  other  articles  were  deposited,  and  Hep- 
burn, wiio  volunteered  the  service^  was  appointed  to 
continue  with  them.     The  rest  of  the  party  now 
had  only  to  carry  a  single  tent,  the  ammunition,  and 
the  officers'  journals,  in  addition  to  their  own  clothes 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  pp.  431,  4'62, 


232 


FRANKLIN  PUSHES  FOHWAni)  : 


Hiid  a  sin<^l<'  blanket  for  Captain  PVanklin.  Wluii 
all  was  ready,  the  whole  party  united  in  thanks^riv- 
ing  and  prayers  to  Almighty  <^rod  for  their  mutual 
preservation^  and  separated  with  tlie  melaneholy  re- 
flection, that  it  might  in  all  probability  be  the  last 
time  they  should  ever  again  meet  in  this  world. 

On  leaving  their  friends  Captain  Franklin  and 
his  party  descended  into  a  more  level  country ;  but 
the  snow  lay  so  deep,  and  they  were  so  little  able  to 
wade  through  it  that  they  encamped,  after  a  painful 
march  of  only  four  miles  and  a  half,  in  which  Be. 
langer,  and  Michel  an  Iroquois,  were  left  far  behind, 
yet  still  struggling  forward.  In  the  evening  they  came 
in  dreadfully  exhausted,  and  Belanger,  ti'  lowone 
of  the  strongest  of  the  party,  could  not  r  i  from 
tears  as  he  declared  he  was  totally  unable  to  proceed, 
and  implored  permission  to  return  to  Dr  Richardson 
and  Mr  Hood.  iMichel  made  the  same  request,  and  it 
was  agreed  that  they  should  do  so.  The  cold  of  the 
night  was  excessive,  and  the  men  were  so  weak  that 
they  could  not  raise  the  tent ;  from  its  weight  it  was 
impossible  to  transport  it  from  place  to  place,  and 
it  was  cut  up,  the  canvass  serving  them  for  a  cover- 
ing; but,  though  they  lay  close  together,  the  in- 
tense frost  deprived  them  of  sleep.  Having  no  tripe 
de  roclie  they  had  supped  upon  an  infusion  of  the 
Labrador  tea-plant,  with  a  few  morsels  of  burnt 
leather.  Michel  and  Belanger,  being  apparently 
more  exhausted  in  the  morning  than  over  night, 
were  left,  whilst  the  rest  moved  forward.  After  a 
very  short  progress  Perrault  was  attacked  with  a  fit 
of  dizziness ;  but,  on  lialting  a  little,  again  proposed 
to  proceed.  In  ten  minutes,  however,  he  sunk 
down^  and,  weeping  aloud,  declared  his  total  in- 


IIIH  PAIITY  RKDUCKU  TO  FIVK 


.     When 
lanks^riv- 
r  niutua 
iclioly  re- 
(*  the  last 
vorld. 
ikliii  and 
itry ;  but 
le  able  to 
a  painful 
k'bicli  Bc- 
ir  lu'liind, 
they  came 
low  one 
1  from 
0  proceed, 
ichardsoii 
est,  and  it 
•old  of  the 
iveak  tliat 
gilt  it  was 
aee,  and 
r  a  cover- 
the  in- 
g  no  tripe 
on  of  the 
of  burnt 
pparently 
er  night, 
After  a 
with  a  fit 
proposed 
he  sunk 
total  in- 


ai)ility  to  ffo  on.  lie  was  aeeordingly  advised  to 
rejoin  iMiehel  and  Uelarii^er, — a  proposal  in  wliicli 
I  I  lie  a('(|uies('ed.  I'liese  examples  of  the  total  failure 
of  the  stron<rest  in  the  party  had  a  very  unfavour- 
able eU'eet  on  the  spirits  of  the  rest,  and  the  exertion 
of  wading  through  the  snow  and  crossing  a  lake  on 
the  ice,  where  they  were  frefjuently  blown  down, 
was  so  severe,  that  Fontano,  after  having  repeatedly 
fallen,  •[liteously  complained  that  h(?  was  utterly 
unable  to  go  farther.  Jieing  not  two  miles  from 
the'  others,  it  was  thought  best  that  he  also  should 
attempt  to  rejoin  them  ;*  and  as  he  was  much 
beloved,  the  parting  was  very  distressing.  They 
watched  him  for  some  time,  and  W(  re  comforted  by 
seeing  that,  though  his  progress  was  very  slow,  he 
kept  his  feet  better  than  before. 

The  whole  party  was  now  reduced  to  five  persons, 
Captain  Franklin,  Adam,  Peltier,  Benoit,  and  Sa- 
niandre,  the  interpreter  Augustus  having  pressed 
forward  by  himself  during  the  late  frequent  halts. 
They  made  that  day  only  four  miles  and  a  half, 
and  encamped  for  the  night  under  a  rock,  supping 
again  on  an  infusion  of  the  Labrador  tea-plank  and 
soHK^  shreds  of  boiled  leather.  The  evening  was 
comparatively  mild,  the  breeze  light,  and  having 
the  comfort  of  a  fire  they  enjoyed  some  sleep.  This 
was  of  infinite  advantage ;  it  gave  them  new  spirits, 
wliicli  were  farther  invigorated  by  a  breakfast  of 
tripe  de  roclie,  this  being  the  fourth  day  since  they 
had  a  regular  meal.  On  reaching  Marten  Lake 
they  found  it  frozen  over, — a  circumstance  which 
they  knew  would  enable  them  to  walk  upon  the  ice 
ijtraight  to  J'ort  Enterprise. 


Franklin's  Journey,  pp.  4B6,  437- 


2'M 


ARRIVAL  AT  FORT  ENTERPRISE, 


It  may  be  easily  imagined  what  were  the  sensa- 
tions of  tlie  party  in  approacliing  tlie  spot  which 
they  trusted  would  be  the  end  of  all  their  toils 
and  privations.  From  the  arrangements  previously 
made,  it  was  judged  certain  that  they  would  here  find 
relief,  and  be  able  to  send  assistance  to  their  unfortu- 
nate companions.  It  was  a  spot  where  they  had  en- 
joyed, at  a  former  period  of  the  expedition,  the  greatest 
comfort ;  but  it  was  possible,  though  they  scarcely 
permitted  themselves  to  contemplate  so  dreadful  an 
idea,  that  circumstances  might  have  occurred  to  de- 
feat  their  present  expectations.  On  approaching  t)ie 
house  their  minds  w^re  strongly  agitated  betwixt 
hope  and  fear,  and,  contrary  to  their  usual  custom, 
they  advanced  in  silence.  At  length  they  reached 
it,  and  their  worst  apprehensions  were  realized.  It 
was  completely  desolate.  No  provisions  had  been  de- 
posited— no  trace  of  Indians  could  be  discovered — 
no  letter  lay  there  from  Mr  Wentzel  to  inform  them 
where  the  Indians  might  be  found.  On  entering 
a  mute  despair  seized  the  party.  They  gazed  on  the 
cold  hearth,  comfortless  walls,  and  broken  sashes, 
through  which  the  wind  and  snow  penetrated,  and, 
awakening  to  a  full  sense  of  the  horrors  of  their 
situation,  burst  into  tears.'"'  On  recovering  a  littlf, 
and  looking  round  with  more  attention,  a  note  was 
found  from  Mr  Back,  stating  that  having  two  days 
before  this  reached  the  house,  he  had  proceeded  in 
search  of  the  Indians ;  but  it  described  his  party  as  so 
debilitated  that  it  was  doubtful  whether  they  would 
be  able  to  reach  Fort  Providence.  The  sufferings  en- 
dured by  this  meritorious  officer  and  his  little  party, 
one  of  whom  was  frozen  to  death,  were  equally 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  pj).  438,  430 


WHICH  IS  FOUND  DESEUTKU. 


235 


e  sensa- 
it  whic'li 
eir  toils 
■eviouslv 
here  find 
unfor'u- 
j  had  en- 
t  greatest 
'  scarcely 
^adful  an 
■ed  to  de- 
ching  tlie 
.  betwixt 
,1  custom, 
y  readied 
lized.     It 
i  I  een  de- 
covered — 
orm  them 
I  entering 
5ed  on  the 
en  sashes, 
ited,  and, 
of  their 
g  a  little, 
note  was 
two  days 
ceeded  in 
3arty  as  sy 
ley  would 
'erings  en- 
tt'e  party, 
e  equally 


dreadful  with  those  which  fell  to  the  share  of  his 
excellent  commander.* 

The  poor  sufferers,  thus  grievously  disappointed, 
now  examined  the  deserted  habitation  for  the  means 
of  subsistence,  and  found  several  deer-skins  thrown 
away  during  their  former  residence  at  the  fort.  The 
heaps  of  ashes  were  carefully  raked,  and  a  consi- 
derable collection  of  bones  discovered,  which  were 
hoarded  up  for  the  purpose  of  being  pounded  and 
manufactured  into  soup.  The  parchment  originally 
employed  instead  of  glass  had  been  torn  from  the 
windows,  and  the  place  was  exposed  to  all  the  in- 
clemency of  an  arctic  winter ;  but  they  succeeded  in 
filling  the  sashes  with  loose  boards,  and  as  the  tem- 
perature of  the  outer  air  was  now  from  15^  to  20° 
below  zero,  this  precaution  was  especially  necessary. 
To  procure  water  they  melted  the  frozen  lumps  of 
snow,  and  the  flooring  of  the  neighbouring  apart- 
ment wis  broken  up  for  fuel. 

Ha\  ing  completed  these  arrangements,  they  as- 
sembled round  the  fire,  and  were  busy  singeing  the 
hair  off  a  deer-skin,  when  they  were  cheered  by  the 
entrance  of  the  interpreter,  who  had  made  his  way 
to  the  fort  by  a  different  route,  through  a  country 
he  had  never  traversed  before.  Though  by  far  the 
strongest  of  the  party,  he  was  now  so  enfeebled  by 
famine  that  he  could  not  follow  two  deer  which 
he  had  seen  on  his  way.  Next  morning  there  was 
a  heavy  gale  from  the  south-east,  and  the  snow 
drifted  so  thick  that  no  one  ventured  abroad.  On 
the  evening  of  the  succeeding  day,  a  figure  covered 
with  ice,  benumbed  with  cold,  and  almost  speech- 
less, staggered  into  the  house :    It  was  one  of  the 

*  See  Mr  Back'ii  interesting  Narrative,  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  477. 


236 


NOTE  FR03I  MR  BACK. 


Canadians  who  liad  been  despatched  with  a  note  by 
Mr  Back,  and  having  fallen  into  a  rapid  narrowly 
escaped  being  drowned.*  To  change  his  dress,  wrap 
him  in  warm  blankets,  and  pour  some  soup  over  his 
throat,  was  their  first  care ;  and  after  a  little  he  re. 
vived  enough  to  answer  the  anxious  questions  with 
which  he  was  assailed.  From  his  replies  but  little 
comfort  was  derived.  IVIr  Back  had  seen  no  trace  of 
the  Indians,  and  the  messenger's  recollection  appear- 
ed confused  with  regard  to  the  part  of  the  country 
where  he  had  left  his  officer,  who,  as  he  stated,  in- 
tended to  proceed  to  the  spot  where  the  Indian 
chief  Akaitcho  had  encamped  last  summer, — a  dis- 
tance of  about  thirty  miles.  Thither  he  proposed  to 
follow  when  he  was  a  little  recruited ;  and,  though 
dissuaded  from  the  attempt,  persisted  that  as  the 
track  was  beaten  he  would  be  able  to  make  it  out, 
and  to  convey  intelligence  of  the  situation  of  Cap- 
tain  Franklin's  party.  Accordingly,  the  fifth  day 
after  his  arrival,  he  departed  from  the  fort  with  a 
small  supply  of  singed  hide. 

Not  long  after,  Adam,  one  of  the  five  men  who 
now  remained  with  Captain  Franklin,  became  so 
ill  that  he  was  utterly  incapable  of  moving,  and  it 
was  discovered  that  he  had  been  for  some  time 
afflicted  with  (edematous  swellings  in  various  parts 
of  his  body,  '^  •  ich  he  had  hitherto  generously  con- 
cealed from  a  wish  not  to  impede  the  movements  of 
his  companions.  As  it  was  i"^  sible  for  this  poor 
man  to  travel,  it  was  necessL  y  :>  abandon  the  ori- 
ginal intention  of  proceeding  wiin  the  whole  party  to 
Fort  Providence,  and  Peltier  and  Samandre,  who  were 
in  almost  as  weak  a  state,  having  expressed  a  wish  to 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  pp.  440,  441. 


FRANKLIN  ATTEMPTS  TO  PROCEED. 


237 


note  by 
arrowly 
3s,  wrap 
over  his 
e  he  re- 
ms  with 
»ut  little 
\  trace  of 
L  appear- 

country 
ated^  in- 
i  Indian 
, — a  dis- 
[)poscd  to 
[,  though 
it  as  the 
ke  it  out, 

of  Cap. 
fifth  day 
rt  with  a 

nen  whu 
ecame  so 
g,  and  it 
mie  time 
ious  parts 
usly  con- 
ements  of 
this  poor 
11  the  ori- 
e  party  to 
who  were 
a  wish  to 


remain  with  Adam,  Captain  Franklin,  along  with 
Augustus  and  Benoit,  determined  to  press  on  to  Fort 
Providence,  and  to  send  relief  to  their  companions 
by  the  first  party  of  Indians  they  should  meet. 

Having  accordingly  given  directions  regarding  the 
journals  and  charts  which  were  left  in  their  custody, 
and  the  best  mode  of  forwarding  succour  to  ]\Ir  Hood 
and  Dr  Richardson,  Franklin  set  forward  with  his 
two  attendants  ;  but  so  feeble  had  they  become, 
that  the  distance  accomplished  in  six  hours  was  only 
four  miles.  They  encamped  on  the  borders  of  Round 
Rock  Lake,  and,  unable  to  find  any  tripe  de  roche, 
made  their  supper  upon  fried  deer-skin.    The  night 
proved  intensely  cold,  and  although  they  crept  as 
close  to  each  other  as  possible,  they  shivered  in  every 
limb,  and  the  wind  pierced  through  their  famished 
frames.*  Next  morning  was  mild,  and  they  set  out 
early,  but  had  scarce  proceeded  a  few  yards,  when 
Franklin  fell    between   two   rocks  and  broke   his 
snow-shoes,  an  accident  which  incapacitated  him 
from  keeping  up  with  Renoit  and  Augustus.     In  a 
very  short  time  his  attempt  to  press  forward  com- 
pletely exhausted  him ;  and  as  the  only  hope  of  pre- 
serving the  lives  of  the  party  appeared  to  rest  on  their 
speedily  reaching  Fort  Providence,  he  determined, 
rather  than  retard  them,  to  retrace  his  steps  to  the 
house  whilst  they  proceeded  for  assistance.     Call- 
ing a  moment's  halt,  he  addressed  one  note  to  Mr 
Back,  requesting  an  immediate  supply  of  meat  from 
Rein  Deer  Lake,  and  another  to  the  commandant 
at  Fort  Providence,  with  urgent  intreaties  for  assist, 
ance.     This  done,  Augustus  and  Benoit  resumed 
their  journey,  and  Franklin  returned  to  the  house. 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  444. 


238  FRANKLIN  JOINED  BY  HIS  FRIENDS, 


On  arriving  he  found  Adam,  Samandre,  and  Pel- 
tier still  alive;  but  the  two  first,  whose  minds  seem- 
ed quite  enfeebled,  could  not  be  prevailed  on  to  leave 
their  bed,  and  their  nervous  weakness  was  so  great 
that  they  scarcely  ceased  shedding  tears  all  day. 
It  was  even  with  difficulty  that  they  were  prevailed 
on  to  take  any  nourishment ;  and  the  labour  of  cut- 
ting and  carrying  fuel,  gathering  the  tripe  de  roche, 
and  cooking,  fell  entirely  upon  FranKlin  and  Peltier. 
The  frost  was  now  so  severe  that  it  was  evident 
this  lichen  would  soon  be  bound  up  in  ice,  and,  as 
their  strength  daily  declined,  every  exertion  became 
irksome.  When  once  seated,  it  required  a  painful 
effort  to  rise  up,  and  not  unfrequently  they  had  to 
lift  each  other  from  their  chairs.  This  miserable 
condition  could  not  last  long.  Peltier  soon  became 
almost  incapable  of  holding  the  hatchet ;  the  bone- 
soup  had  grown  so  acrid  as  to  corrode  the  inside  of 
their  mouths  ;  the  tripe  de  roche,  covered  with  ice, 
defied  all  efforts  to  detach  it  from  the  rock ;  and 
though  the  rein-deer  sported  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  no  one  had  strength  to  go  after  them,  or  to 
hold  a  gun  so  steadily  as  to  secure  an  aim. 

Still  the  hopes  and  cheerfulness  of  Franklin  did 
not  desert  him.  From  his  knowledge  of  the  places 
mostly  frequented  at  iiat  season  by  the  Indians,  he 
was  sanguine  as  to  the  likelihood  of  their  being 
found  ;  and  their  speedy  arrival  formed  a  constant 
subject  of  conversation.  At  length  on  the  evening 
of  the  29th,  when  talking  of  this  long  looked-for  re- 
lief, and  sitting  round  the  fire,  Peltier  suddenly  leapt 
up  and  uttered  a  joyful  exclamation,  imagining  he 
heard  the  bustle  of  the  Indians  in  the  adjoining 
room.    It  was  not  the  Indians,  however,  but  Dr 


DR  RICHARDSON  AND  HEPBURN. 


239 


nd  Pel- 

is  seem- 
to  leave 
so  great 
ill  day. 
revailed 
r  of  cut- 
le  roche, 

Peltier. 

evident 

and,  as 
I  became 
L  painful 
i^  had  to 
iiiserable 
I  became 
le  bone- 
inside  of 
with  ice, 
ck;  and 

s  of  the 
or  to 

Iklin  did 

le  places 

lians,  he 

[ir  being 

constant 

evening 
td-for  re- 
Inly  leapt 
lining  he 
[djoining 

but  Dr 


Richardson  and  Hepburn,  wlio  came  in  each  car- 
rying his  bundle.    The  meeting  was  one  of  mingled 
joy  and  sorrow.    Poor  Hood's  absence  was  instantly 
perceived,  and  their  saddest  anticipations  were  con- 
firmed by  Dr  Richardson  declaring  that  this  young 
officer  and  Michel  were  dead,  and  that  neither  Per. 
rault  nor  Fontano  had  reached  the  tent,  or  been  heard 
of.    Such  news  could  not  fail  to  create  despondency. 
All  were  shocked  at  the  emaciated  countenances 
and  hollow  voices  of  Dr  Richardson  and  his  com- 
panion,  while  Captain  Franklin  and  his  fellow- 
sufferers,  having  become  gradually  accustomed  to 
the  dreadful  effects  of  famine  upon  each  other,  were 
not  aware  that,  to  the  eyes  of  tlieir  friends  who  had 
just  arrived,   the  alteration  upon  themselves  was 
equally  melancholy.     "  The  doctor,"  says  Frank- 
lin, "  particularly  remarked  the  sepulchral  tone  of 
our  voices,  which  he  requested  us  to  make  more 
cheerful  if  possible,  not  aware  that  his  own  partook 
of  the  same  key."* 

The  arrival  of  these  friends,  however,  was  soon  at- 
tended with  a  favourable  change.     Though  greatly 
reduced  they  were  still  in  a  better  condition  than 
their  unfortunate  companions,  and  it  was  not  long  till 
Hepburn  shot  a  partridge.    Dr  Richardson  speedily 
tore  off  the  feathers,  and  having  held  it  for  a  few  mi- 
nutes at  the  fire  divided  it  into  six  pieces  :  Franklin 
and  his  companions  ravenously  devoured  their  por- 
tions, "■  being  the  first  morsel  of  flesh  that  any  of  them 
liad  tasted  for  thirty-one  days,"  and  Dr  Richardson 
(^lieered  them  with  the  prospect  that  Hepburn  might 
possibly  bring   in  a  deer  in  his  next  expedition. 
The  counsels  and  example  of  this  pious  and  intelli- 
gent man  produced  the  best  effects  on  the  spirits 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  447. 


240     HAPPY  EFFECT  OF  IIEPBURN's  COUNSELS. 


of  the  party.  He  had  brouglit  witli  him  his  Testa- 
ment and  Prayer-bookj  and  by  reading  portions  of 
scripture  appropriate  to  their  situation,  and  en- 
couraging tliem  to  join  in  prayer  and  thanksgiving, 
he  led  them  to  the  only  source  whence,  under 
the  awful  circumstances  in  which  they  were  placed, 
they  could  derive  hope  or  consolation.  He  taught 
them  the  necessity  of  exertion,  whatever  pain  it 
might  at  first  cost ;  roused  them  to  pay  some  atten- 
tion to  the  cleanliness  of  their  apartment,  and  in- 
sisted particularly,  that  during  tlie  day  they  should 
roll  up  their  blankets,  which  they  had  been  in  the 
practice  of  leaving  beside  the  fire  where  they  slept. 
Their  several  tasks  were  now  allotted  to  each  ; 
Hepburn  and  Richardson  went  out  in  search  of  deer ; 
while  Franklin,  being  unable  to  walk  far,  remain- 
ed nearer  the  house,  and  digged  under  the  snow  for 
skins,  which,  during  their  former  happy  winter  resi- 
dence at  this  station,  when  they  killed  and  ate 
abundance  of  game,  were  thrown  away  as  useless, 
but  now  in  their  almost  putrid  state  formed  their 
principal  support.  The  cutting  of  firewood  was 
intrusted  to  Peltier  and  Samandre ;  but  both  were 
so  weak  and  dispirited  that  it  was  generally  per- 
formed by  Hepburn  on  his  return  from  hunting ; 
as  for  Adam,  his  legs  were  still  so  severely  swollen 
that  he  kept  his  bed,  though  an  operation  perform- 
ed by  Dr  Richardson  gave  him  some  ease.  In  the 
midst  of  these  necessary  cares,  all  seemed  for  a 
while  to  dread  approaching  the  subject  of  Hood  and 
Michel's  death ;  but  at  length  one  evening,  on  the 
return  of  the  Doctor  from  hunting,  and  after  having 
despatched  their  usual  supper  of  singed  skin  and 
bone-soup,  they  requested  him  to  relate  the  particu- 
lars, and  a  more  afflicting,  or  in  some  respects  a 


GLS. 


RICHARDSON  S  NARRATIVE. 


241 


s  Testa- 
•tions  of 
ind  en- 
[sgiving, 
,    under 
B  placed, 
3  taught 
pain  it 
le  atten- 
and  in- 
j  should 
m  in  the 
liey  slept, 
to   each ; 
\\  of  deer ; 
,  remain- 
)  snow  for 
inter  resi- 
and   ate 
iS  useless, 
ned  their 
v^ood  was 
)0tli  were 
rally  per- 
liunting ; 
y  swollen 
perform- 
.     In  the 
led  for  a 
lood  and 
ig,  on  the 
|er  having 
skin  and 
particu- 
respects  a 


more  terrific  story,  as  it  appears  in  iiis  puhlished 
narrative,  could  not  well  be  conceived. 

He  stated,  that  after  being  left  by  Captain  P>ank- 
liu  they  remained  beside  the  fire  as  long  as  it  lasted. 
Having  no  tripe  de  roclie,  they  supped  on  an  infusion 
(if  the  country  tea-plant,  which  was  grateful  from  its 
warmth,  but  afforded  no  nourishment,  and  retired  to 
rest.  Next  day  proved  stormy,  and  the  snow  being 
sO  deep  that  a  fire  could  not  be  kindled  with  the  green 
willows,  they  lay  in  bed  reading  some  religious  books 
with  which  the  party  had  been  furnished  before  leav- 
ing England  by  the  alTectionate  and  pious  care  of  a 
lady.  "  They  proved,"  says  Richardson,  ''  of  in- 
calculable benefit  to  us.  We  read  portions  of  them 
to  each  other  as  we  lay  in  bed,  in  addition  to  the 
morning  and  evening  service,  and  found  that  they 
inspired  us  on  each  perusal  with  so  strong  a  sense  of 
the  omnipresence  of  a  beneficent  God,  that  our  si- 
tuation in  these  wilds  appeared  no  longer  destitute ; 
and  we  conversed  not  only  with  calmness  but  with 
cheerfulness,  detailing  with  unrestrained  confidence 
the  past  events  of  our  lives,  and  dwelling  with  hope 
upon  our  future  prospects." '' 

The  weather  clearing  up,  Dr  Richardson  went  out 
in  search  of  tripe  de  roclie,  leaving  i\Ir  Hood  in  bed 
and  Hepburn  cutting  willows  for  a  fire ;  but  the  rocks 
were  covered  with  ice  and  snow,  and  he  was  unsuc- 
cessful. On  his  return  he  found  Michel  the  Iro- 
quois, who  delivered  the  note  from  Franklin. t  All 
were  surprised  to  see  him  alone ;  but  he  stated  that 
Belanger  had  separated  from  him,  and,  as  he  sup- 
posed, lost  his  way,  he  himself  having  wandered  far 


Franklin's  Journey,  p.  44'J. 


t  Ibid.  |).  441». 
P 


242 


3IICHKL  S  SUSPICIOUS  CONDUCT. 


from  the  straight  road.  Tlicy  had  afterwards  good 
reason  to  suspect  tlie  truth  of  this  story,  but  believed 
it  at  tliat  moment,  and  were  rejoiced  to  see  him 
produce  a  hare  and  a  partridge, — an  unlooked-for 
supply,  which  they  received  with  humble  thankful, 
ness  to  the  Giver  of  all  good.  Franklin's  note  ad. 
vised  them  to  advance  to  a  little  wood  of  piiu> 
which  would  afford  better  fuel ;  and  to  this  they  re. 
moved  under  the  guidance  of  Michel,  who  led  thtni 
straight  to  the  spot. 

As  he  had  declared  himself  so  little  acquainted 
with  the  country  as  to  lose  his  way,  it  seemed 
strange  that  he  should  at  once  conduct  them  to  tlie 
thicket.  This  roused  their  attention,  and  ir.adt 
them  feel  rather  uneasy  as  to  his  honesty ;  and  va- 
rious  circumstances  occurred  to  increase  their  sus. 
picions.  He  requested  the  loan  of  a  hatchet,  when 
any  other  hunter  would  have  taken  only  his  knife. 
He  remained  abroad  all  day  without  any  definite 
employment.  He  brought  them  some  raw  meat, 
saying  it  was  part  of  the  carcass  of  a  wolf;  i>ut 
which  they  had  afterwards  reason  to  believe  was  a 
portion  of  the  bodies  of  Belanger  and  Perraiilt, 
whom  they  suspected  him  to  have  murdered.  He 
shunned  the  society  of  Dr  Richardson  and  Mr  Hood, 
refusing  to  sleep  in  the  tent,  and  preferring  to  lit 
alone  at  the  fire.  On  going  out  with  the  purpose  of 
remaining  a  whole  day,  he  often  returned  abruptly. 
and  when  questioned  gave  vague  answers.  In  « 
few  days  he  began  to  regret  that  he  had  left  Cap- 
tain Franklin's  party,  refused  to  take  any  share  in 
the  labour  of  cutting  wood,  talked  in  a  surly  and 
insolent  manner,  and  could  scarcely  be  prevailed 
upon  to  go  out  and  hunt  at  all.     These  symptoms 


MUltDEU  OP  3111  HOOD. 


L>4a 


rvards  good 
ut  believed 
to  see  him 
n  looked- for 
e  tliaiikful- 
I's  note  ad. 
Dd  of  piiu> 
his  they  re- 
ho  led  thtni 

acquainted 

,  it  seemed 
them  to  the 
and  madt 
y;  and  va- 
e  their  sus- 
itchet,  wlien 
y  his  knife. 
any  definite 
■  raw  meat, 
wolf;  but 
lelieve  was  a 
d  Perrault, 
'dered.    He 
Id  Mr  Hood, 
irring  to  lie 
le  purpose  of 
id  abruptly 
Ivers.     In  i^ 
left  Cap. 
ly  share  in 
surly  and 
prevailed 
symptoms 


,)f  gloomy  dissatisfaction  increased;  he  resisted  all 
entreaties,  and  when  IMr  Hood,  who  was  now  re- 
duced by  famine  to  the  last  extremity,  remonstrated 
with  him,  he  flew  into  a  violent  passion,  and  ex- 
claimed, "  It  is  of  no  use  hujiting ;  there  are  no  ani- 
mals; you  had  better  kill  and  eat  me."  He  after- 
wards, however,  consented  to  go  out,  but  returned 
upon  some  frivolous  pretence ;  and  on  the  succeed- 
ing day  that  dreadful  catastrophe  took  place,  which 
will  be  best  given  in  the  words  of  Dr  Richardson's 
Journal. 

"  In  the  mo.'ning/'  says  he,  "  being  Sunday,  Oc- 
tober 20th,  we  again  urged  IMichel  to  go  a-hunting, 
that  he  might,  if  possible,  leave  us  some  provision, 
to-morrow  being  the  day  appointed  for  his  quitting 
us;  but  he  showed  great  unwillingness  to  go  out, 
and  lingered  about  the  fire  under  the  pretence  of 
cleaning  his  gun.     After  we  had  read  the  morning 
service  I  went  about  noon  to  gather  some  tripe 
de  roclie,  leaving  Mr  Hood  sitting  before  the  tent 
at  the   fireside   arguing   with   IMichel.     Hepburn 
was  employed  cutting  down  a  tree  at  a  small  dis- 
tance from  the  tent,  being  desirous  of  accumulat- 
ing a  quantity  of  firewood.     A  short   time   after 
i  went  out  I  heard  the  report  of  a  gun,  and  about 
ten  minutes  afterwards  Hepburn  called  to  me  in 
a  voice  of  great  alarm  to  come  directly.     When  I 
arrived  I  found  poor  Hood  lying  lifeless  at  the 
fireside,  a  ball  having  apparently  entered  his  fore- 
liead.     I  was  at  first  horror-struck  with  ihe  idea 
that  in  a  fit  of  despondency  he  had  hurried  him- 
self into  the  presence  of  his  Almighty  Judge  by 
an  act  of  his  own  hand ;  but  the  conduct  of  Michel 
soon  gave  rise  to  other  thoughts,  and  excited  suspi- 


244 


MURDKR  OF  IMIl  HOOD 


cions  wliicli  were  confirmed,  when,  upon  cxamin. 
hiff  tlie  body,  I  found  tliat  the  shot  had  entered  IIk 
back  part  of  tlie  head  and  liad  passed  out  at  the  fort-- 
head,  whilst  the  muzzle  of  tlie  gun  had  been  ap. 
plied  so  close  as  to  set  fire  to  the  nightcap  behind. 
The  gun,  which  was  of  the  longest  kind  supplied  to 
the  Indians,  could  not  have  been  placed  in  the  po. 
sition  to  inflict  such  a  wound  except  by  a  second 
person.     Upon    inquiring  of  Michel  how  it  hap. 
pened,  he  replied  that  Mr  Hood  Iiad  sent  him  into 
the  tent  for  the  short  gun,  and  that  during  his  ab- 
sence the  long  gun  had  gone  off,  he  did  not  know 
whether  by  accident  or  not.     He  Iield  the  short  gun 
in  his  hand  at  the  time  he  was  speaking.     Hepburn 
afterwards  asserted,  that  previous  to  the  report  of 
the  gun,  Mr  Hood  and  Michel  were  speaking  to 
each  other  in  an  elevated  angry  tone ; — he  added, 
that  ]\Ir  Hood  being  seated  at  tlie  fireside  was  hid 
from   him  by  intervening   willows;    but  that  on 
hearing  the  report  he  looked  up,  and  saw  Midiel 
rising  up  from  before  the  tent-door,  or  just  behind 
where  Mr  Hood  was  seated,  and  then  going  into  the 
tent.     Thinking  that  the  gun  had  been  discharged 
for  the  purpose  of  cleaning  it,  he  did  not  go  to  th*' 
fire  at  first ;  and  when  IMichel  called  to  him  that  Mr 
Hood  was  dead,  a  considerable  time  had  elapsed. 
'^'    *   Bickersteth's  Scripture  Help  was  lying  open 
beside  the  body,  as  if  it  had  fallen  from  his  hand, 
and  it  is  probable  he  was  reading  it  at  the  instant 
of  his  death."* 

Sucli  w^as   the  melancholy   fate  of  Mr  Hood. 
a  young  officer  of  the  highest  promise,  who  by  his 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  vol.  iv.  r2mo  ed.  p.  10*J — 1 12. 


BY  MICIIKL  TIIK  lUOQUOIS. 


24: 


i> 


n  oxamin. 

'iitert'd  llic 

at  the  fort'- 

d  been  ap- 

ap  behind. 

supplied  to 

in  tlie  po. 

)y  a  second 

)W  it  Imp. 

t  him  into 

ing  liis  al). 

L  not  know 

e  short  gun 

Hepburn 

le  report  ol 

speaking  to 

—lie  added, 

ie  was  liid 

Lit  that  on 

saw  IMii'liel 

ust  beliind 

nji  into  tlu' 

discharged 

go  to  th'' 

im  that  Mr 

ad  elapsed. 

ying  open 

his  hand, 

the  instant 

iNIr  Hood. 
ho  by  his 

.112. 


conduct  had  endeared  himself  to  every  member  of  the 
expedition,  and  whose  sufferings,  as  they  were  more 
intense  from  the  peculiarity  of  his  constitution, 
were  bonn*  with  a  placid  and  unpretendi'ig  forti- 
tude, which  it  was  impo.ssible  to  contemplate  with- 
;iut  emotion.  Both  Dr  Richardson  and  Hepburn 
were  convinced  he  had  met  his  death  from  the  hands 
of  Michel ;  but  to  have  accused  him  at  that  mo- 
ment would  have  been  the  extremity  of  rashness. 
They  were  so  reduced  by  famine  that  he  could  easi- 
ly have  overpowered  both.  His  appearance  showed 
that  he  possessed  secret  supplies  of  food ;  he  was 
of  great  bodily  strength,  and  was  aruied  to  the 
teeth,  carrying,  besides  his  gun,  a  brace  of  pistols, 
an  Indian  bayonet,  and  a  knife.  To  have  hinted  a 
suspicion,  therefore,  might  have  been  instantly  fatal, 
and  they  affected  to  consider  the  death  of  their  com- 
panion entirely  accidental.  As  his  weakness  had 
been  the  chief  cause  of  delaying  their  journey,  they 
now  set  out  for  the  fort,  having  first  paid  the  last  rites 
to  the  dead  in  the  only  way  which  their  situatioji 
would  permit.  The  ground  was  so  hard  and  their 
strength  so  exhausted,  that  to  dig  a  grave  was  impos- 
sible ;  so  they  carried  the  body  into  the  willow  grove 
l)ehind  the  tent,  and  returning  to  the  fire  read  the 
funeral  service  in  addition  to  their  evening  devotions. 
In  the  morning,  having  singed  the  hair  off  a  por- 
tion of  ]\Ir  Hood's  buffalo  robe,  they  boiled  and  ate 
it  for  breakfast.  Meanwhile,  the  conduct  of  IMichel 
was  so  extraordinary,  that  had  they  not  been  already 
convinced  of  his  guilt,  no  doubt  of  it  could  have 
remained.  Though  not  a  breath  of  their  suspi- 
cions reached  his  ears,  he  repeatedly  protested  that 
he  was  incapable  of  committing  such  an  act ;  he 


l>4() 


TURK  ATS  OK  MICIIKL  : 


kept  constantly  on  iiis  guard  ;  .'ippcarcd  IVarful  oi 
leaving  Dr  Hicliardson  and    Ilcphurn  alone  «'v«'ii 
for  the  sliortest  time  ;  and  wlien  Ilephurn  spoke  In 
listened    anxiously,    though    very    iniperfeetly   a(. 
(|uainted  with  the  English  huiguage,  fixed  his  eyes 
keenly  upon  him,  and  asked  fiercely  if  he  accused 
him  of  the  murder.     He  evinced  great  unwillingness 
to  set  out  for  the  lort,  and  wished  l)r  Richardson  to 
proceed  to  the  t'opperminc  River,  where  he  said  tin 
woods  would  supply  plenty  of  deer.     On  findini; 
this  advice  disreganh'd  his  r(*nduct  Inranie  more  and 
more  alarming ;  lie  muttered  to  himself,  fell  into 
sullen  fits  of  abstraction,  and  used  those  convulsivi 
and  abrupt  gestures  often  involuntarily  exhibited  ii\ 
a  person  whose  mind  is  full  of  some  dreadful  purpos- 
Suddenly  awakening  from  this  reverie,  he  again  ex- 
pressed his  unwillingnetis  to  rf  turn  to  the  fort,  and 
'•«newed  his  soli,  'tat'ons  to  Dr  Ricliardson  to  repaii 
to   the   southern  v/oods,   wliere   they   would   tiiii 
ample  subsistence.     On  oeing  requested  to  pursut 
his  own  plan  alone   and  leave  them  to  continui 
their  journey,  he  broke  into  an  ungovernable  fury. 
accused    Hepburn   of  having   told   stories   against 
him,  and  assumed  such  airs  of  superiority  as  showed 
that  he  knew  they  were  both  in  his  power,  at  tin 
same  time  giving  vent  to  expressions  of  hatred  Pgainst 
the  white  people,  calling  them  deadly  <  iiemi''^,  and 
affirming  they  had  killed  and  eaten  his  imcle  and 
two  of  his  relations. 

None  of  tliese  menaces  were  lost  upon  Richard- 
son and  Hepburn  ,•  both  felt  they  were  not  safe  in 
this  man's  company;  and  tlicise  dread  fid  surmises 
rose  into  certainty  when  he  ihrewout  hints  that  in 
would  free  himself  from  all  restraint  ni  *'ie  morrow. 


HIM  DKATII. 


247 


I  (t'ari'ul  (Ji 
alone  even 
rii  spoke  In 
erteetly  ac- 
ced  his  eves 

• 

lie  aceiised 
ivvilliii^MU'i«> 
ieliardson  tn 
'  he  said  tin 
On  lindiriL' 
ne  more  and 
A{\  fell  into 
e  convulsive 
'xhibited  ii\ 
Iful  purpose 
he  again  ex- 
he  fort,  and 
m\  to  repaii 
would   li!;^ 
'd  to  pursut 
to  eontiniit 
rnable  fury, 
ries   against 
\'  as  showed 
wer,  at  tlif 
Itrt  dp  gainst 
pena^'a,  and 
uncle  and 

|vn  Rieliard- 

Jnot  safe  in 

lid  surmises 

iit^s  that  hf 

he  morrow. 


IJi'ing  now  convinced  that,  as  he  had  cruelly  mur- 
dered Hood,  he  was  resolved  also  to  sacrifice  them, 
they  ascribed  his  not  having  already  done  so  to  the 
eircumsta!ice  of  his  not  knowing  the  way  to  the  fort, 
and  H'cjuiring  their  guidance.     They  camt»  to  this 
conclusion  without  any  communication  with  each 
()ther;  for  their  fierce  coinj)anion  would  not  leave 
tiiem  a  moment,  watching  them  with  a  malignant 
look,  and  frecjueiitly  muttering  threats  against  Ilep- 
hiirn.    Towards  evening,  as  they  a|)proached  the  spot 
where  it  would  be  necessary  to  stop  for  the  night, 
Michel  halted  to  gather  tripe  de  roche,  and  to  their 
surprise  bade  them  walk  on  and  he  wouid  soon  over- 
take them.     Hepburn  and  J)r  Richardson,  now  left 
nlone  together  for  the  first  time  since  ^Mr  Hood's 
death,  rapidly  opened  their  minds  to  each  other.    In 
addition  to  the  facts  already  mentioned,  others  came 
to  light,  which  left  not  the  slightest  doubt  as  to 
Michel's  guilt ;  and  so  convinced  was  Hepburn  of 
there  being  no  safety  for  them  but  in  his  death,  that, 
though  a  man  of  extreme  benevolence  and  deep  re- 
ligious principle,  he  offered  to  be  the  instrument  of  it 
himself.    "  Had  my  own  life,"  says  Dr  Richardson, 
"  alone  been  threatened,  I  would  not  liave  purchas- 
ed it  by  such  a  measure ;  but  I  considered  myself 
as  intrusted  also  with  the  protection  of  Hepburn's, 
a  man  who  by  his  humane  attentions  and  devoted- 
iiess  had  so  endeared  himself  to  me,  that  I  felt  more 
anxiety  for  his  safety  than  for  my  own."     Animat- 
ed by  such  feelings,  and  convinced  that  Michel's 
death  was  necessary  to  self-preservation,  he  deter, 
rained  that  it  ought  to  be  by  his  own  and  not  by  Hep- 
burn's hand,  and  on  his  coming  up  shot  him  through 
the  head  with  a  pistol.     It  appeared  that  he  had  ga- 


24» 


AllJUVAL  AT  THE  FOt;t, 


thored  no  tripe  de  roclio,  and  liaa  lialtcd  to  put  ]\\> 
gun  in  order,  no  doubt  with  the  intention  of  attack- 
ing  them  wlien  in  tlie  aet  of  encamping. " 

Dr  Kiehardson  and  Ilephurn  now  pursued  their 
way  to  tile  fort;  but  fatigue,  and  want  of  food  and  fiul. 
had  nearly  proved  fatal  to  them.     They  remarked, 
liowever,  that  rej)eatedly  when  death  seemed  inevit- 
able an  unexpected  supply  of  provisions  a^'ain  restor- 
ed them ;  and  the  confidence  that,  when  no  human 
help  was  nigh,  they  were  supported  by  a  merciful 
God,  inspired  them  with  renewed  hope.  At  last  tiu  \ 
had  the  delight  of  beholding  from  an  eminence  tin 
smoke  issuing  from  the  chimney  of  the  fort,  and 
immediately  after  embracing  those  friends  for  whusi 
fate  tliey  had  entertained  so  many  melancholy  fon- 
bodings.     So  ended  this  interesting  narrative. 

The  whole  party  were  now  once  more  united, 
but  under  circumstances  of  the  most  distressing  pri- 
vation  ;  all  emaciated  to  such  a  degree  as  to  look 
like  living  skeletons ;  their  hands  shook  from  weak- 
ness,  so  that  to  take  an  aim  was  impossible ;  and 
the  rein-deer,  partridges,  and  other  game,  flew  or 
bounded  past  in  joyousness  and  security,  whilst  tlie 
unhappy  beings  who  beheld  them  were  gaunt  with 
hunger.  The  winter  was  closing  in  with  all  its 
horrors  ;  it  became  daily  more  difficult  to  procuri 
fuel,  the  labour  of  cutting  and  carrying  the  logs  be- 
ing so  grievous  that  only  Dr  Richardson  and  Hep- 
burn could  undertake  it;  and  to  scrape  the  ground 
for  bones,  and  to  cook  this  miserable  meal,  was  all 
Captain  Franklin  could  accomplish.  On  1st  No- 
vember,  the  Doctor  obtained  scmie  tripe  de  roche;  and 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  pji.  457j  458. 


I  to  put  \\\> 
n  of  attack - 

rsued  their 
odandfiul. 
'  remarked. 
tiiL'd  inevit- 
^'ain  restor- 
i  no  huiiiaii 
'  a  men'ifu! 
;Vt  last  tlu  V 
iiinencc  tlu 
e  fort,  aii'l 
Is  for  whose 
ic'lioly  fore- 
ative. 
ore  united, 
ressing  pri- 
as  to  louk 
oni  weak- 
sible;  and 
le,  flew  or 
whilst  the 
Taunt  witli 
ith  al!  its 
to  prociiri 
le  logs  be- 
lid  Hep- 
he  ground 
al,  was  all 
1  1st  No- 
oehe;  and 


DEATH  OF  PELTIER  AND  SA^I/NDHE. 


'2V.) 


as  Peltier  and  Samandre  were  in  the  last  stage  of 
exhaustion,  it  was  hoped  a  little  of  the  souj)  might 
revive  them.  All  was  in  vain  ;  they  tasted  a  few 
spoonfuls,  but  soon  complained  of  a  soreness  in  their 
tiiroats,  and  both  died  in  the  course  of  the  night,  ap- 
parently without  pain.  To  inter  the  bodies,  or  even 
carry  them  to  the  river,  was  a  task  for  which  the  unit- 
ed strength  of  the  survivors  was  inadequate;  all  they 
could  do  was  to  remove  them  into  an  opposite  part 
of  the  house ;  and  the  living  and  the  dead  remained 
in  awful  contiguity  under  the  same  roof. 

The  party  was  now  reduced  to  four, — Frank- 
lin, Richardson,  Hepburn,  and  Adam.  The  last 
had  become  dreadfully  low  since  the  death  of  his 
companions,  and  could  not  bear  to  be  left  alone  for 
a  moment.  Their  stock  of  bones  was  exhausted,  and 
in  a  short  time  it  was  evident  that  the  severity  of  the 
frost  must  render  the  gathering  of  the  tripe  de  roche 
impossible.  Under  these  circumstances,  with  death 
l»y  famine  approaching  every  hour,  this  little  band 
of  pious  and  brave  men  were  supported  by  an  un- 
wavering reliance  on  the  mercy  of  God.  '^  We  read 
prayers,"  says  Captain  Franklin,  "  and  a  portion  of 
the  New  Testament  in  the  morning  and  evening, 
as  iiad  been  our  practice  since  Dr  Richardson's  ar- 
rival ;  and  I  may  remark,  that  the  performance  of 
these  duties  always  afforded  us  the  greatest  conso- 
lation, serving  to  reanimate  our  hope  in  the  mercy 
of  the  Omnipotent,  who  alone  could  save  and  deli- 
ver us."*  It  seemed  as  if  it  were  the  mysterious 
design  of  the  Almighty  to  permit  them  to  be  re- 
duced to  the  lowest  depth  of  suflering,  that  his 

*  Fraukliii's  Journev,  p.  404. 


250 


UNEXPECTED  RELIEF. 


power  might  be  magnified  at  the  very  moment 
when  every  human  effort  appeared  utterly  impo- 
tent. Hitherto  l)r  Rieliardson  and  Hepburn  had 
been  the  healtliiest  of  the  party,  but  they  had  over- 
wrought themselves,  and  both  sunk  rapidly.  Owiiif: 
to  their  loss  of  flesh,  the  hardness  of  the  floor,  from 
which  they  were  only  protected  by  a  single  blanket, 
rendered  the  whole  surface  of  their  bodies  sore ;  vet 
the  labour  of  turning  from  one  side  to  the  other  was 
too  much  for  them.  As  their  strength  sunk^,  thtir 
mental  faculties  partook  of  the  weakness  of  their 
frame ;  and,  to  employ  the  candid  and  simple  ex- 
pressions of  the  excellent  leader,  "  an  unreason- 
able  pettishness  with  each  other  began  to  manifesl 
itself,  each  believing  the  other  weaker  in  intel- 
lect than  himself,  and  more  in  need  of  advice  and 
assistance."  During  this  gloomy  period,  after  the  first 
acute  pains  of  hunger,  which  lasted  but  for  three  o; 
four  days,  had  subsided,  they  generally  enjoyed  the 
refreshment  of  sleep,  accompanied  by  dreams  which 
for  the  most  part  partook  of  a  pleasant  character,  and 
very  often  related  to  the  pleasures  of  feasting."^ 

Help,  however,  was  now  near  at  hand,  and  W( 
shall  not  impair  the  affecting  description  of  their 
deliverance  by  giving  it  in  any  other  than  Captain 
Franklin's  own  words : — "On  November  7tli,  Adam 
liad  passed  a  restless  night,  being  disquieted  bv 
gloomy  apprehensions  of  approaching  death,  whicii 
they  tried  in  vain  to  dispel.  He  was  so  low  in  the 
morning  as  scarcely  to  be  able  to  speak,  and  Cap- 
tain Franklin  remained  by  his  bedside  to  cheer 
him  as  much  as  possible,  whilst  the  Doctor  and 

*  Franklin's  .lournov,  pp.  4Hy,  4(Jii. 


ARRIVAL  OF  THE  INDIANS. 


251 


J  moment 
rly  impu- 
iburn  had 
Imd  over. 
y.  Owin<: 
loor,  from 
e  blanket, 
sore;  vet 
other  was 
link,  thiir 
5S  of  their 
iimple  ex- 
iinreasoii- 
0  manifest 
in   intel- 
idvice  and 
ter  the  first 
or  three  o; 
II joyed  the 
anis  which 
raeter,  and 
ting."' 
I,  and  \v» 
m  of  their 
111  Captain 
7th,  Adam 
uieted  hy 
th,  wliicli 
low  in  tlic 
and  Cap- 
i  to  cheer 
loetor  and 


Hepburn  went  out  to  eut  wood.  They  had  hardly 
begun  their  labour  when  they  were  amazed  at 
hearing  the  report  of  a  musket,  and  could  scarcely 
believe  that  ther  ?  was  any  one  near  till  they  heard 
a  shout,  and  espied  three  Indians  close  to  the  house. 
Adam  and  Franklin  heard  the  latter  noise,  and 
were  fearful  that  some  part  of  the  house  had 
fallen  upon  one  of  their  companions, — a  disaster 
which  had  been  thought  not  unlikely.  The  alarm 
w^as  only  momentary;  for  Dr  Richardson  came  in 
to  communicate  the  joyful  intelligence  that  relief 
had  arrived.  He  and  Captain  Franklin  imme- 
diately addressed  their  thanksgivings  to  the  Tiirone 
of  IVIercy  for  this  deliverance  ;  but  poor  Adam  w^as 
in  so  low  a  state  that  he  could  scarcely  comprehend 
tlie  information.  When  the  Indians  entered  he  at- 
tempted to  rise,  but  immediately  sank  down  again. 
But  for  this  seasonable  interposition  of  Providence, 
his  existence  must  have  terminated  in  a  few  hours, 
and  that  of  the  rest  probably  in  not  many  days."* 
The  Indians  who  had  been  despatched  by  IMrBack 
iiad  travelled  with  great  ex  edition,  and  brought 
a  small  supply  of  provisions.  They  imprudent- 
ly presented  too  much  food  at  first ;  and  though 
aware  of  the  effects  which  might  arise  from  a  sur- 
feit, and  warned  by  Dr  Richardson  to  eat  very  spar- 
ingly, the  sight  of  the  venison  was  irresistible ;  and 
it  was  devoured  by  them  all,  not  excluding  the  Doc- 
tor himself,  with  an  avidity  that  soon  produced  the 
most  acute  pains,  which  during  the  night  deprived 
them  of  rest.  Adam,  whose  weakness  rendered  him 
unable  to  feed  himself,   was  not  subjected  to  the 


*  Franklin's  Journey)  [>•  407. 


GRKAT  KINDNlibS  OF  TIIK  INDIANS. 


same  inconvonieiicC;,  and  taking  moderate  meals 
revived  hourly.  All  now  was  thankfulness  and 
cheerful  activity.  J3oudel-kell,  the  youngest  In- 
dian, after  an  hour's  rest,  returned  to  the  en- 
campment of  AkaitchOj  the  Dog-rib  chief,  carry- 
ing a  note  from  Captain  Franklin,  and  a  request 
for  another  sup})ly  of  provisions.  The  two  others, 
named  in  their  familiar  manner  Crooked  Foot  and 
the  Rat,  remained  to  nurse  the  white  men.  Under 
their  care  the  apartment  lately  so  desolate,  and 
something  between  a  sepulchre  and  a  lazar-house, 
assumed  a  gladdened  hjok  which  had  the  best  ef- 
fect. The  dead  bodies  were  removed,  the  room 
cleaned  of  its  filth  and  fragments  of  pounded  bones, 
and  large  cheerful  fires  produced  a  sensation  of 
comfort  to  which  they  Iiad  long  been  strangers. 
The  poor  sufferers  had  often  cast  a  wishful  eye  on 
a  pile  of  dried  wood  near  the  river,  but  were  utter- 
ly unable  to  carry  it  up  the  bank.  When  pointed 
out  to  the  Indians,  they  fetched  it  liome  with  a  ra- 
pidity which  astonished  their  feeble  friends.  "  They 
set  about  every  thing,"  says  Franklin,  "  with  an 
activity  which  amazed  us.  Indeed,  contrasted  with 
our  emaciated  figures  and  extreme  debility,  their 
frames  appeared  to  us  gigantic,  and  their  strengtii 
supernatural." 

Under  the  care  of  the  Indians,  and  the  bless- 
ing  of  w  holesome  and  regular  meals,  the  strength 
of  the  party  w^as  so  far  restored,  that,  although 
still  feeble,  on  the  1 6th,  after  having  united  in 
prayer  and  thanksgiving  to  God  for  their  deliver- 
ance, they  left  Fort  Enterprise, — a  spot  where, 
as  they  had  formerly  enjoyed  much  comfort  if 
not  happiness,  they  had  latterly  experienced  a  de- 


JS. 


CONCLUSION  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


253 


ate  meals 
iliiess  and 
ingest  In- 
3  the  en- 
ief,  oarry- 

a  request 
^vo  others, 
[  Foot  and 
n.  Under 
Dlate,  and 
izar-house, 
le  best  ef- 

the  room 
ded  bones, 
nsation  of 

strangers, 
iful  eye  on 
vere  utter- 
*n  pointed 
with  a  ra- 

s.  "Thev 

'  witli  an 
lasted  with 
jlity^  their 
strengtli 

Ithe  bless- 

strength 

although 

mited  in 

deliver- 

)t  where, 

lomfort  if 
ced  a  de- 


gree of  misery  scarcely  to  be  paralleled.*  The 
Indians  treated  them  with  unremitting  kindness, 
gave  them  their  own  snow-shoes,  and  walked  at 
their  side  to  be  ready  to  lift  them  up  when  they 
fell.  In  this  manner  they  pushed  forward  to  the 
abode  of  Akaiteho,  the  Indian  chief,  who  welcomed 
them  with  the  utmost  hospitality.  Soon  after  they 
received  letters  from  their  friends  at  Fort  Provi. 
dence,  and  the  messenger  also  brought  two  trains  of 
dogs,  a  package  of  spirits  and  tobacco  for  the  In- 
dians, and  a  supply  of  shirts  and  clothes  for  Cap- 
tain Franklin  and  his  companions.  The  gratifica- 
tion of  changing  their  Vhva,  which  had  been  unin- 
terruptedly worn  ever  since  their  departure  from 
the  seacoast,  is  described  as  conveying  an  intensity 
of  comfort  to  which  no  words  can  do  justice.  From 
this  spot  their  progress  to  Fort  Providence  and  thence 
to  IMontreal  was  prosperous  and  easy;  and  thus 
terminated  their  long,  fatiguing,  and  disastrous  tra- 
vels in  North  America,  having  journeyed  by  water 
and  by  land,  including  their  navigation  of  the  Po- 
lar Sea,  5550  miles. 

So  disastrous  had  been  the  result  of  his  first  expe- 
dition, and  so  appalling  the  sufferings  with  which 
it  was  accompanied,  that  nothing  assuredly  can  con- 
vey a  more  honourable  testimony  to  the  enthusias- 
tic zeal  and  unshaken  perseverance  of  Captain 
Franklin,  than  the  statement  of  the  simple  fact, 
that  towards  the  close  of  1823,  having  learnt  the 
determination  of  government  to  make  another  at- 
tempt to  eflfect  a  northern  passage  by  sea  between 
tile  Atkntic  and  Pacific  Oceans,  he,  to  use  his  own 

*  Franklin's  Journey,  p.  4/0. 


254 


FIIANKLIN  S  SKCOM)  .JOURNEY  : 


words,  ''  ventured  to  lay  before  his  Majesty's  go- 
vernment a  plan  for  an  expedition  overland  to  the 
mouth  of  the  JNIackenzie  River,  and  thenee  by  sea 
to  the  north-western  extremity  of  America,  witli 
the  combined  object  also  of  surveying  the  coast  be- 
tween the  IMackenzie  and  the  Coppermine  Rivers." 

It  was  the  opinion  of  this  able  officer  that,  in  the 
course  he  now  proposed  to  follow,  reverses  similar 
to  those  which  had  surrounded  his  first  journey 
were  scarcely  to  be  apprehended ;  and  his  views  liav. 
ing  met  the  approbation  of  government,  lie  received 
directions  for  the  equipment  of  the  expedition,  and 
was  nominated  its  commander.  He  had  the  satis- 
faction  also  of  being  once  more  accompanied  by  his 
valued  friend  Dr  Richardson,  who,  unappalled  by  his 
former  dreadful  sufferings,  again  off*ered  his  services 
as  naturalist  and  surgeon,  and  volunteered  to  un- 
dertake the  survey  of  the  coast  between  the  Macken- 
zie and  Coppermine  Rivers,  while  Captain  Franklin 
was  occupied  in  an  attempt  to  reach  Icy  Cape."  Pre- 
vious  to  the  departure  of  the  ships  a  correspondence 
was  opened  with  the  governor  and  directors  of  tlif 
Hudson's  Bay  Company  ;  who  transmitted  injunc 
tions  to  their  officers  in  the  fur-countries,  to  provide 
depots  of  provisions  at  the  stations  pointed  out  by 
Franklin. 

The  building  of  proper  boats  for  the  navigation  of 
the  Arctic  Sea,  as  well  as  the  passage  of  the  rapids 
between  York  Factory  and  Mackenzie  River,  formed 
the  next  object  of  attention.  It  was  evident  that  the 
canoes  of  birch-bark  employed  by  Sir  A.  Macken- 
zie, and  by  Captain  Franklin  in  his  first  journey. 

*  Franklin's  Narrative  of  a  Second  Expedition  to  the  Shores  of 
tlic  Polar  Seiu     Introductory  Chapter,  p.  10. 


jesty's  go- 

nd  to  the 

ice  by  sea 

Tica,  witli 

I  coast  be- 

e  Rivers." 

lat,  in  tlie 

es  similar 

;t  journey 

/iews  hav- 

e  received 

ition,  and 

the  satis- 

ied  by  his 

lied  by  his 

lis  services 

red  to  un- 

s  IMacken- 

1  Franklin 

pe."    Pre- 

spondence 

;ors  of  the 

d  in  June- 

0  provide 

:d  out  by 

i^igation  of 

le  rapids 

er,  formed 

It  that  the 

Mackeii- 

journey. 

lie  Shores  <it 


HIS  PllEPAltATIONS. 


L\j.> 


ihough  excellently  adapted  for  the  American  rivers, 
uniting  lightness  and  facility  of  repair  with  speed, 
were  yet,  from  the  tenderness  of  the  bark,  little  fit- 
ted to  resist  the  force  of  the  arctic  waves,  or  the 
collision  of  the  sharp-pointed  masses  of  ice.  Captain 
Franklin  accordingly  obtained  the  Admiralty's  per- 
mission to  have  three  boats  constructed  at  Wool- 
wich under  his  own  superintendence.  "  They  were 
huilt,"  says  he,  "  of  mahogany,  with  timbers  of  ash, 
both  ends  exactly  alike,  and  fitted  to  be  steered 
either  with  a  ship-oar  or  a  rudder.  The  largest, 
being  twenty-six  feet  long  and  five  feet  four  inches 
broad,  was  adapted  for  six  rowers,  a  steersman,  and 
an  officer ;  it  was  found  to  be  capable  of  carrying 
three  tons  weight  in  addition  to  the  crew,  and  could 
be  transported  with  ease  on  the  shoulders  of  six  men. 
The  two  other  boats  were  twenty-four  feet  in  length, 
four  feet  ten  inches  broad,  and  held  a  crew  of  live 
men,  besides  a  steersman  and  an  officer,  with  an 
extra  weight  of  two  and  a  half  tons.  In  addition 
to  these  another  little  vessel  was  constructed  at 
Woolwich,  which  reflected  great  credit  upon  its 
inventor,  Lieutenant-Colonel  Pasley  of  the  Royal 
Engineers.  Its  shape  was  exactly  that  of  one  of 
tile  valves  of  a  walnut-shell,  and  it  was  framed  of 
well-seasoned  planks  of  ash  fastened  together  with 
thongs,  and  covered  with  IMackintosh  s  prepared  can- 
vass. It  weighed  only  eighty-five  pounds,  and  when 
taken  to  pieces  could  be  made  up  in  five  or  six  par- 
cels, and  again  put  together  in  less  than  twenty  mi- 
nutes, although  it  was  nine  feet  long  by  four  feet 
four  inches  in  breadth."*     Each  person  on  board 

*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  Intro.  Chap.  pp.  lil,  18, 


2r,G 


DKPARTURK  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


was  provided  witli  two  suits  of  wator-proof  dresses, 
prepared  by  Mr  IMaekintosli  of  Glasgow  ;  tlie  guns, 
which  were  of  the  same  l)ore  as  tlie  fowliiig-pieees 
furnished  by  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company  to  the  In- 
dian liunters^  had  their  Joeks  tempered  to  resist  the 
cold ;  each  Ix'iiig  fitted  witli  a  l)road  Indian  dagger 
simihir  to  a  bayonet,  wliich,  on  being  disjoined, 
could  be  used  as  a  knife.  Ammunition  of  tJie  best 
quality,  and  a  store  of  provisions  suflicient  for  two 
years,  were  also  supplied. 

The  expedition  sailed  from  Liverpool  on  lOtli 
February  1825,  and  after  a  favourable  passage  tc 
New  York  proceeded  to  Albany,  travelled  througli 
Utica,  Rochester,  and  Geneva,  crossed  the  Niagara 
and  Lake  Ontario,  coasted  the  northern  shore  of 
Lake  Superior,  and  thence  pushed  forward  through 
Rainy  Lake,  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  Lake  Winipefi, 
Saskatchawan  River,  and  arrived  at  Cumberland 
House  on  15th  June.  From  this  station,  proceeding 
northward  to  Isle  a  la  Crosse,  and  passing  throuf^li 
Deep  River  and  Clear  and  Buffalo  Lakes,  thev 
overtook  their  boats  in  IMethye  River  on  the  morn- 
ing of  2i)th  June.  The  advanced  period  of  the  sea- 
son rendered  it  impossible  to  embark  on  the  Mac 
kenzie  before  the  middle  of  August,  so  that  it  be- 
came  necessary  to  postpone  the  great  expedition 
till  the  ensuing  summer.  They  accordingly  esta- 
blished  their  winter-quarters  on  the  banks,  erecting 
a  habitation  and  store,  which  they  named  Fort 
Franklin.  The  superintendence  of  these  buildings 
was  committed  to  Lieutenant  Back,  while  Captain 
Franklin  determined  to  descend  the  river,  take  a 
view  of  the  state  of  the  Polar  Sea,  and  return  to 
winter-quarters  before  the  extreme  cold  should  set  in. 


ARRIVAL  AT  WUALE  ISLAND. 


f  (Iressi'S, 
the  guns, 
iig-pieces 

0  the  In- 
resist  tlu' 
\n  dagger 
lisjoined, 
;'  the  best 
it  for  two 

on  IGth 
)assage  tc 
tl  tiirougli 
e  Niagara 

1  shore  ot 

d  througli 

!  Winipeg, 

iniberland 

)roceedin^ 

g  througli 

kes,   they 

lie  moru- 

f  the  sea- 

the  Mac 

at  it  be- 

[xpeditioii 
igly  esta- 
L  ereeting 
Ined  Fort 
Ibuildings 
Captain 
[r,  take  a 
return  to 
lid  set  in 


In  this  voyage  there  oecurred  nothing  worthy  of 
particular  notice  till  the  arrival  at  Whale  Island, 
wliere,  though  ^Mackenzie  liad  the  strongest  reasons 
to  conclude  that  he  had  n'ached  the  sea,  he  appears 
not  to  have  been  conipleti^ly  satisfied  on  that  point. 
Probably  his  doubts  arose  from  the  fresh  taste  of* 
the  water.     Franklin,  however,  proceeded  beyond 
Whale  Island,  and  reached  the  shore  of  the  great 
Arctic  Ocean.     "  Embarking,"  says  he,  '^at  eleven 
A.M.,  we  continued  our  course  along  the  shore  of 
Ellice  Island,  until  we  found  its  coast  trendingsouth- 
ward  of  east.     There  we  landed,  and  were  rejoiced 
at  the  sea-like  appearance  to  the  northward.     An 
island  was  now  discovered  to  the  north-east,  looking 
blue  from  its  distan(!e,  towards  which  the  boat  was 
immediately  directed.    The  water,  which  for  the  last 
eight  miles  had  been  very  shallow^  became  gradu- 
ally deeper,  and  of  a  more  green  colour,  though  still 
fresh,  even  when  w^e  had  entirely  lost  sight  of  the 
eastern  land.     In  the  middle  of  the  traverse  we 
were  caught  by  a  strong  contrary  wind,  against 
which  our  crews  cheerfully  contended  for  five  hours. 
Unwilling  to  return  without  attaining  the  object  of 
our  search,  when  the  strength  of  the  rowers  was 
nearly  exhausted  the  sails  went  set  double-reefed, 
and  our  excellent  boat  mounted  over  the  waves  in 
a  most  buoyant  manner,  whilst  an  opportune  alter- 
ation of  the  wind  enabled  us  in  the  course  of  another 
hour  to  fetch  into  smoother  w  ater  under  the  shelter 
of  the  island.     We  then  pulled  across  a  line  of  strong 
ripple,  wliich  marked  the  termination  of  the  fresh 
water,  that  on  the  seaw^ard  side  being  brackish  ;  and 
in  the  farther  progress  of  three  miles  to  the  island, 
we  had  the  indescribable  pleasure  of  finding  the  wa- 

Q 


258 


ACCURACY  OF  MACKENZIE. 


ter  decidedly  salt.     The  sun  was   setting  as  the 
boat  touched  the  l)eaeh ;  we  liasteiied  to  the  most 
elevated  part  of  the  ishiiid,  about  250  feet  liigh, 
to  look  around ;  and  never  was  a  prospect  more 
gratifying  tlian  that  which  lay  open  to  us.     Th» 
Rocky  J\Iountains  were  seen  from  S.  W.  to  W.^N. 
and  from  the  latter  point,  round  by  the  north,  tht 
sea  appeared  in  all  its  majesty,  entirely  free  from 
ice,  and  without  any  visible  obstruction  to  its  navi. 
gtition.     IMany  seals  and  black  and  white  whales 
were  seen  sporting  on  its  waves,  and  tin;  whole  scene 
was  calculated  to  excite  in  our  minds  the  most  flat- 
tering expectations  of  ^ur  own  success  and  that  ol 
our  friends  in  the  Ilec ...  and  the  Fury."-     Frank, 
lin  pronounces  a  liigh  encomium  on  the  accuracy  of 
INIackenzie,  and  considers  him  as  completely  en. 
titled  to  the  praise  of  having  reached  the  Arctic  8ea, 
although,  owing  to  the  frail  construction  of  the  In- 
dian canoes,  it  was  impossible  for  him  to  sail  to  tlu 
point  where  the  water  became  salt. 

Having  accomplished  his  design  in  this  prelimi- 
nary  journey,  Franklin  returned  on  5th  Septem- 
ber to  his  winter-quarters  on  Great  Bear  Luke 
About  the  same  time  Dr  Richardson  arrived  from 
his  excursion  to  the  north-eastern  shores  of  the  sani( 
extensive  sheet  of  water,  having  completed  his  sur- 
vey as  far  as  the  influx  of  Dease's  River,  and  as- 
certained  that  the  first  rapid  was  the  best  point  to 
which  the  eastern  detachment  of  the  expedition 
should  direct  its  course  on  their  return  from  tin 
Coppermine  in  the  following  season.  Meantime 
the  people  were  so  busily  employed  that  time  never 


*  Frankliu's  Second  Journey,  p.  34 — 36. 


WINTER  RMPLOYMENTS. 


259 


g    as   tile 
the  most 
Wt  high, 
>ect  more 
us.     Thr 
oW4^' 
lorth,  tht 
free  from 
)  its  navi- 
te  whales 
hole  scene 
most  flal- 
id  that  ot 
Fraiik- 
Lccuraoy  of 
(letely  en- 
\rctic  Sea, 
of  the  In. 
sail  to  the 

is  prelimi- 
Septem- 

,ear  Lake. 

ived  from 

if  the  sann 
'd  his  sur- 

tr,  and  as- 

t  point  to 

expedition 

from  the 

IMeantinie 

lime  never 


'lung  heavy  on  their  hands,  and  the  shortest  day 
came  almost  unexpectedly  upon  them.     The  Ca- 
nadians and  Indians  wr   >  engaged  in  fishing  and 
hunting  for  the  support  of  the  whole  party,  and 
during  the  autumn  the  nets  yielded  daily  eight 
hundred  fi.sh  of  the   kind  called   herring-salmon. 
Four  Dog-rih  Indians,  uiong  with  the  two  interpre- 
ters, Augustus  and  Ooligbuck,  were  employed  in 
Jmnting  rein-deer,  and  the  sailors  were  divided  into 
different  parties,  to  whom  s(»parate  duties  were  al- 
lotted ;  such  as  attending  on  the  nets,  bringing  hon>e 
the  venison  killed  by  the  hunters,  felling,  carrying, 
and  splitting  wood,  and  exercising  themselves  in 
running  as  letter-carriers  on  snow-shoes  between 
Fort  Franklin  and  two  other  small  ])osts  established 
on  the  Mackenzie  and  Slave  Lake.     A  school  also 
was  opened,  in  which,  during  the  long  winter  ev<'n- 
ings,  the  officers  instructed  the  sailors  in  reading, 
writing,  and  arithmetic ;  and  during  the  hours  of 
relaxation  the  hall  was  given  up  to  the  men  to  di- 
vert themselves  with    any  game   they  chose;  on 
which  occasions  they  were  always  joined  by  the 
officers.     Sunday  was  invariably  a  <lay  of  rest,  and 
the  whole  party  attended  divine  service  morning 
and  evening.     Besides  this,  the  officers  had  ample 
employment  in  noting  down  the  thermometrical, 
magnetical,  and  atmosphe  ical  observations,  in  writ- 
ing their  journals,  finishing  their  charts  and  draw- 
ings, and  arranging  the  objects  of  natural  hi-tory 
which  had  been  collected.*     They  were  amu,^^*d  by 
occasional  visits  of  the  Dog-rib  Indians  and  various 
other  tribes ;  and  Christmas-day  falling  on  a  Sun- 


Fmnklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  54—50. 


YT^^m 


200 


APPnOAfll  OF  SPRING. 


(lay,  thoy  on  the  ancrroding  cvoniiii;  gave  a  danro 
and  supjuT,  wliich  was  attended  by  sixty  persons 
ineliidiii^r  savajfes.  "  Seldom,"  says  PVanklin,  "  in 
such  a  coiifiiied  space  as  our  liall,  or  anionjtist  tin 
same  number  of  persons,  was  tliere  a  greater  variety 
of  character  or  great<'r  confusion  of  tongues.  The 
party  consisted  of  P^nglishmen,  Highlanders  (who 
mostly  conversed  with  eacli  other  in  (Jaelic),  Cana- 
dians (wlio  spoke  French),  Esquimaux,  Chipewy. 
ans.  Dog-ribs,  Hare  Indians,  Cree  women  and  chil- 
dren, all  mingU?d  together  in  perfect  liarmony. 
whilst  the  amusements  were  varied  by  English, 
(raelic,  and  French  songs.""' 

The  spring  now  api)roached,  and  the  migratory 
animals,  which  observe  with  beautiful  exactness 
their  periods  of  departure  and  arrival^  began  to  ap. 
pear,  gladdening  the  yet  wintry  face  of  nature. 
On  5th  October  the  last  swan  had  passed  to  the 
southward,  and  on  the  11th  the  last  brown  duck 
was  noticed.  On  Gth  IMay  the  first  swan  was  seen. 
and  on  the  8tli  the  brown  ducks  reappeared  on  tlic 
lake.  The  mosses  began  to  sprout,  and  various 
singing  birds  and  orioles,  along  with  some  swifts 
and  white  geese,  arrived  soon  after.  It  is  remarked 
by  Dr  Richardson,  that  the  singing  birds,  which 
were  silent  on  the  banks  of  the  Bear  Lake  during' 
the  day^  serenaded  their  mates  at  midnight;  at 
which  time,  however,  it  was  quite  light.  On  20tli 
May^  the  little  stream  which  flowed  past  the  fort 
burst  its  icy  chains,  and  the  laughing  geese  arrived 
to  give  renewed  cheerfulness  to  the  lake.  8oon  after 
this  the  winter  green  began  to  push  forth  its  flowers ; 


•  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  ti7. 


a  (Lanro 
y  persons 
klin,  "  ill 
invest  thf 
IT  variety 
les.  Tlu' 
Icrs  (who 
ic),  C'ufiiu 
Cliipcwy. 

and  <'hii- 
liariiionv. 

English, 

niigratorv 
exactnt'ss 
gan  to  ap- 
of  nature. 
5(>d  to  the 
own  duck 
was  seen. 
»d  on  tlic 
various 
nie  swifts 
remarktHl 
ds,  which 
vo  during' 
night;  at 
On  2(lth 
t  the  furl 
se  arrived 
Soon  after 
ts  tlowers ; 


KMBAUKATION  ON  TlIK  MACKENZIi:. 


2G\ 


'Hid  un(hT  the  increasing  warmth  of  tlie  sun's  rays 
the  whoh.'  faee  of  nature  unch-rwent  a  deliirhtful 
change.  The  snow  gradually  melted,  the  ice  hroUc 
up  from  the  shores  of  the  !s«ke,  the  nortlwrii  sky 
hecanie  red  and  luminous  at  mi(inight,  the  dwarf- 
hirch  and  wil'ows  expanded  their  leaves,  and  by 
the  3d  June  the  anemones,  the  tussilago,  the  Lap- 
land rose,  iind  other  early  plants,  were  in  full  (lower.* 
Admonished  by  these  pleasing  changes  Captain 
Franklin  prepared  to  set  out,  and  on  ir)th  June  the 
(Hjuipments  for  the  boats  were  completed.  Four- 
teen men,  including  Augustus  the  Esquimaux  in- 
terpreter, accompanied  the  commander-in-chief  and 
Lieutenant  liack  in  the  two  larger  boats,  the  Lion 
and  the  Keliance  ;  whilst  nine  men,  and  Oolig- 
buck  another  interpreter,  attended  Dr  Richard- 
son and  i\Ir  Kendall  in  the  Dolphin  and  the  Union. 
iSpare  blankets,  and  all  that  could  be  useful  for 
the  voyage,  or  as  presents  to  the  Esquimaux,  were 
divided  between  the  eastern  and  western  parties. 
On  the  Sunday  before  their  departure,  the  ofti- 
wrs  and  men  assembled  at  divine  worship,  and,  in 
addition  to  the  usual  service,  the  special  protection 
of  the  Almighty  was  implored  for  the  enterprise 
upon  which  they  were  about  to  be  engaged.  All 
was  now  ready,  and  on  Tuesday,  28th  June,  they 
embarked  upon  the  JMackenzie,  with  the  navigation 
of  which  the  reader  is  already  familiar.  On  the 
4th  July  they  reached  that  part  where  the  river 
divides  into  various  channels,  and  the  two  parties  had 
determined  to  pursue  different  directions.  The  expe- 
dition which  was  to  follow  the  western   branch, 

*  Richardson's  Meteorological  Tables. 


262 


MOUTH  OF  THE  MACKENZIE. 


commanded  by  Captain  Franklin,  embarked  first 
at  Dr  Richardson's  desire,  with  a  salute  of  three 
hearty  cheers  from  their  companions,  and  as  they 
dropt  down  the  river  and  passed  round  a  point  of 
land  they  perceived  their  friends  who  were  to  fol- 
low  the  eastern  branch  employed  in  the  bustle  of 
embarkation.  All  were  in  high  spirits,  and  it  was 
impossible  not  to  contrast  their  present  complete 
state  of  equipment  with  the  circumstances  of  their 
first  disastrous  journey. 

On  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie,  the 
western  expedition  came  almost  immediately  into 
contact  with  the  Esquimaux.  Captain  Franklin  ob- 
served an  encampment  upon  a  neighbouring  island, 
and  instantly  proceeded  to  open  a  communication. 
A  selection  of  presents  was  made,  and  at  the  same 
time  every  man  was  directed  to  have  his  gun 
ready  for  use.  Having  adopted  these  precautions, 
they  steered  direct  for  the  island  with  their  ensigns 
flying.  The  boats  touciied  ground  when  about 
a  mile  from  the  beach.  Signs  were  made  to  the 
Esquimaux  to  come  off,  and  the  English  pulled 
back  a  little  to  await  their  arrival  in  deeper  water. 
Three  canoes,  each  carrying  only  a  single  person, 
pushed  off,  and  these  were  followed  rapidly  by  others; 
so  that  in  a  few  minutes  the  whole  space  between 
the  boats  and  the  shore  was  alive  with  those  little 
vessels  which  they  name  kayaks.  An  attempt  was 
at  first  made  to  count  them,  and  the  sailors  got 
the  length  of  seventy ;  but  they  increased  in  such 
quick  succession  as  to  baffle  their  farther  efforts. 

At  first  every  thing  proceeded  in  a  friendly  man- 
ner. Augustus,  after  delivering  a  present,  informed 
them,  that  if  the  English  succeeded  in  finding  a  na- 


ESQUIMAUX. 


263 


rked  first 
i  of  three 
i  as  they 
I  point  of 
ire  to  fol- 

bustle  of 
nd  it  was 

complete 
3S  of  their 

enzicj  the 
ately  into 
anklin  ob- 
ng  island, 
unication. 
the  same 
;   his   gun 
•ecautions, 
sir  ensigns 
len  about 
de  to  the 
sh  pulled 
3er  water, 
e  person, 
3y  others; 
between 
lose  little 
empt  was 
ailors  got 
1  in  such 
fforts. 
dly  man- 
informed 
ing  a  na- 


vigable channel  for  large  ships,  an  advantageous  trade 
would  be  opened.  This  intimation  was  received 
with  a  deafening  shout,  and  the  sight  of  the  presents 
which  had  been  carried  away  by  the  three  foremost 
kayaks  inflamed  the  cupidity  of  their  companions ; 
so  that  the  boats  were  in  a  moment  surrounded  by 
nearly  300  persons,  offering  for  sale  their  bows,  ar- 
rows, and  spears,  with  a  violence  and  perseverance 
which  became  at  last  exceedingly  troublesome,  and 
Captain  Franklin  directed  the  boats  to  be  put  to 
seaward.  At  this  moment  a  kayak  was  upset  by 
one  of  the  oars  of  the  Lion,  aud  its  unhappy  pos- 
sessor was  stuck  by  the  accident  with  his  head  in 
the  mud,  and  his  heels  in  the  air.  He  was  in- 
stantly extricated,  wrapt  in  a  warm  great-coat,  and 
placed  in  the  boat,  where,  although  at  fiist  exces- 
sively frightened  and  angry,  he  soon  became  recon- 
ciled to  his  situation,  and  looking  about,  discovered 
many  bales  and  other  articles  which  had  hitherto 
been  carefully  concealed.  His  first  impulse  was  to 
ask  for  every  thing  he  saw,  his  next  to  be  indignant 
that  his  requests  were  not  granted;  and  on  join- 
ing his  companions,  as  they  afterwards  learned,  he 
harangued  on  the  inexhaustible  riches  of  the  Lion, 
and  proposed  a  plan  for  a  general  attack  and  pillage 
of  both  the  boats.  This  scheme  was  immediately 
carried  into  execution ;  and  although  the  plunderers 
at  first  affected  to  be  partly  in  sport,  matters  soon 
assumed  a  serious  complexion.  Two  of  the  most 
powerful  incn^  leaping  on  board,  seized  Captain 
Franklin,  forced  him  to  Sit  between  them,  and 
when  he  shook  them  off,  a  third  took  his  station  in 
front  to  catch  his  arm  whenever  he  attempted  to 
raise  his  gun  or  lay  his  hand  on  the  broad  dagger 


204        VIOLENT  CONDUCT  OF  THE  ESQUI3IAUX. 


which  hung  by  his  side.  During  this  assault  tlic 
two  boats  were  violently  dragged  to  the  sli  )re,  and 
a  numerous  party,  stripping  to  the  waist  and  bran. 
dishir-  Uieir  long  sharp  knives,  ran  to  the  Reliance, 
and  commenced  a  reguh./ pillage,  handing  the  ar- 
ticles to  the  women,  who,  ranged  in  a  row  behind, 
(juickly  conveyed  them  out  of  sight.  No  sooner 
was  the  bow  cleared  of  one  set  of  marauders  than 
ajiother  party  commenced  their  operations  at  the 
st<^rn.  The  Lion  was  beset  by  smaller  numbers, 
and  her  crew,  by  firmly  keeping  their  seats  on  the 
canvass  cover  spread  over  the  cargo,  and  beating  oil' 
the  natives  with  the  butt-end  of  their  muskets, 
succeeded  in  preventing  any  article  of  importance 
from  being  carried  away.  Irritated,  at  length,  by 
their  frequent  failure,  the  Esquimaux  made  a  si- 
multaneous  charge,  and,  leaping  on  board,  began  to 
wrest  the  daggers  and  shot-belts  from  the  sailors, 
and  to  strike  wdtli  their  knives.  In  the  midst  of 
this  attack,  when  the  crew  in  the  Lion  were  nearlv 
overpowered  and  their  commander  disarmed,  all  nt 
once  the  natives  took  to  their  heels,  and  concealed 
themselves  behind  the  drift-timber  and  canoes  on 
the  beach.  This  sudden  panic  was  occasioned  by 
Captain  Back,  whose  boat  at  this  time  had  been  got 
afloat,  commanding  his  crew  to  level  tiieir  muskets. 
— a  proceeding  which  was  immediately  observed  by 
the  Esquimaux,  though  not  iOticed  ])y  Captaiii 
Franklin's  men,  who  were  wholly  occupied  in  de- 
fending themseives.  Tlie  Lioii  happily  floated  soon 
after ;  a>id  as  both  boats  [)ulled  ofl",  Captain  Frank- 
lin desired  Augustus  to  inform  some  of  the  Esqui- 
maux, who  manifested  a  disposition  to  follow  and 
renew  the  attack,  that  he  would  shoot  the   first 


vux. 


SPEECn  OF  AUGUSTUS. 


265 


sault  the 

iiro,  and 

lid  bran- 

lielianw, 

fj  the  ar- 

'  behind. 

]o  sooner 

lers  thai) 

IS  at  tlie 

numbers, 

ts  on  the 

eatinc:  ofl' 

muskets, 

nportance 

nigthj  by 

ade  a  si- 

began  to 

le  saih)rs, 

midst  of 

re  nearly 

edj  all  at 

concealed 

anoes  on 

ioned  ]>v 

been  gi)t 

muskets, 

erved  bv 

Captain 

d  in  de- 

ited  soon 

1  Frank" 

Esqui- 

llow  and 

the   first 


( 


man  who  ventured  to   approach  within    musket-. 
range.* 

In  tlie  evening,  Augustus  anxiously  entreated 
permission  to  attend  a  conference  of  his  countrymen 
on  the  shore,  to  which  he  had  been  formally  invited. 
The  courage  and  fidelity  of  this  person  had  much 
endeared  him  to  the  English,  and  it  was  not  with- 
out hesitation  that  Captain  Franklin  agreed  to  his 
request,  as  he  stated  his  determination  to  reprove 
the  natives  for  their  disgraceful  conduct.  He  was 
at  length  allowed  to  go,  and  by  the  time  he  reached 
the  shore  the  number  of  Esquimaux  amounted  to 
forty,  all  of  them  armed.  On  landing,  he  walk- 
A  undauntedly  into  the  middle  of  the  assembly, 
and  addressed  them  in  the  following  animated 
speech,  which  he  afterwards  repeated  to  his  English 
friends : — '^  Your  conduct,"  said  he,  ''  has  been  very 
had,  and  unlike  all  other  Esquimaux.  Some  of 
you  even  stole  from  me,  your  countryman — but  that 
I  do  not  mind.  I  only  regret  that  you  should  have 
treated  in  this  violent  manner  the  white  people, 
who  came  solely  to  do  you  kindness.  iMy  tribe 
were  in  the  same  unhappy  state  in  which  you  now^ 
are  before  the  white  people  came  to  Churchill  ,•  but 
at  present  they  are  supplied  with  every  thing  they 
need;  and  you  see  that  I  am  well  clothed,  I  get 
every  thing  I  want,  and  am  very  comfortable.  You 
cannot  expect,  after  the  transactions  of  this  day, 
that  these  people  will  ever  bring  any  articles  to  your 
f'ountry  again,  unless  you  show  your  contrition  by 
returning  the  stolen  goods.  The  white  people  love 
ihe  Esquimaux,  and  w  ish  to  show  them  the  same 


Frankliu's  Second  Journey,  p.  lUl  — 10/. 


2m 


PEACE  RESTORED. 


kindness  that  they  bestow  upon  the  Indians.  Do 
not  deceive  yourselves  and  suppose  that  they  arc 
afraid  of  you  ;  I  tell  you  they  are  not,  and  that  it 
is  entirely  owin^  to  their  humanity  that  many  of 
you  were  not  killed  to-day,  for  they  have  all  guns 
witli  which  they  can  destroy  you  either  near  or  at 
a  distance.  I  also  have  a  ^un,  and  can  assure  you 
that  if  a  white  man  had  fallen,  I  would  have  beeii 
the  first  to  have  revenged  his  death."  During  this 
speech,  which  was  delivered,  as  they  perceived  from 
tlie  boats,  with  much  energy  and  spirited  gesticu- 
lation,  the  Esquimaux  expressed  their  approbation 
by  frequent  shouts,  and  on  its  conclusion  made  a 
very  penitent,  though  somewhat  singular  apology: 
''  They  had  never  seen  white  men  before,"  they 
said,  ''  and  really  all  the  things  in  the  boats  were 
so  beautiful  and  desirable  that  it  was  impossible 
not  to  steal  them.  As  they  were  very  anxious, 
however,  for  the  friendship  and  trade  of  the  whiu 
men,  they  solemnly  promised  never  to  repeat  such 
conduct,  and,  at  the  request  of  Augustus,  sent  back 
the  large  kettle,  the  tent,  and  some  pair3  of  shoes 
vs-^hich  they  had  carried  off."*  The  interpreter  v*as 
jfterwards  invited  to  a  dance,  and  a  friendly  lui- 
derstanding  seemed  to  be  established  ;  but  Captain 
I'ranklin  soon  discovered  that  the  professions  of  tiie 
natives  were  hollow  and  treacherous  ;  and  nothing 
but  his  jealous  precautions  saved  him  and  his  com- 
panions from  massacre,  in  which  it  had  been  resolved 
to  include  the  faithful  Augustus. 

Their  voyage  along  the  coast  in  the  direction  of 
west-north-west,  after  a  progress  of  tweln;  h\A^  :.  was 


Franklin's  Sccontl  Journey,  pp.  1015,  10" 


CONTINUANCE  OP  THE  VOVAGE. 


^(>7 


ians.     Do 
;  they  arc 
id  that  it 
t  many  of 
e  all  guns 
near  or  at 
issure  you 
have  been 
during  this 
eived  from 
ed  gesticu- 
pprohation 
on  made  a 
ir  apology: 
fore/'  they 
boats  were 
impossihle 
ry  pnxious, 
'  the  wliiU 
repeat  such 
;,  sent  back 
ir3  of  shoes 
•preter  was 
riendly  uii- 
>ut  Captain 
sions  of  the 
id  nothiii!,' 
id  Ills  coni- 
:en  resolveil 

direction  of 
.h!'.•,^vas 


impeded  by  the  ice  stretching  from  the  shore  far  to 
seaward.     The  boats  were  in  consequence  hauled 
up;  and  as  the  frozen  masses  were  piled  round  to 
the  lieight  of  thirty  feet,   it  became  necessary  to 
iiwait  the  breaking  up  of  this  formidable  barrier. 
Having  gone  to  sleep,  the  oflicers  were  startled  at 
midnight  hy  the  guard  calling  to  arms  :  Three  Es- 
quimaux^ belonging  to  a  larger  party  encamped  at 
some  distance,  had  stolen  forward,  and  been  only 
discovered  when  close  at  hand.    Alarmed  at  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  men,  who  stood  to  their  arms,  the 
strangers  were  on  the  point  of  discharging  their  ar- 
rows, when  they  were  arrested  by  the  loud  voice  of 
Augustus,  who  explained  the  ol)ject  of  the  expedi- 
tion, and  dilated  upon  the  advantages  which  they 
would  derive  from  it.     A  present  confirmed  his 
statement,  and  an  amicable  intercourse  was  opened, 
-a  line,  however,  being  first  drawn  at  a  ceriain 
distance  from  the  tents,  across  which  no  Esquimaux 
was  to  pass  under  the  penalty  of  being  instantly 
sliot.     Against  this  they  jnade  no  remonstrance, 
only  remarking,  when  informed  of  the  treacherous 
conduct  of  the  natives  at  the  mouth  of  Mackenzie 
River,  that  "  these  were  bad  men,  altogether  dif- 
ferent from  them,  and  never  failed  either  to  steal 
or  quarrel  whenever  an  opportunity  was  offered." 
The  delight  exhibited  by  these  people,  including  the 
niost  elderly  among  them,  on  receiving  any  little 
present,  was  exactly  similar  to  that  of  children  when 
they  get  hold  of  toys.     They  ran  from  one  thing  to 
another;   examined  with  restless  curiosity  every 
part  of  Augustus'  dress,  who,  to  gratify  his  vanity, 
liad  put  on  his  gayest  apparel ;  and,  ignorant  of  the 
I  uses  of  the  articles  presented  to  them^  they  walk.. 


208 


FRIENDLY  ESQUIiMAUX  . 


vd  about  witli  cod-fish  liooks  and  awls  dangling 
from  the  nose,  and  copper  thimbles  strung  to  their 
trousers  or  rein-deer  jackets.  The  men  were  ru. 
bust,  and  taller  than  those  seen  on  the  east  coast  hv 
Captain  Parry,  tiiough  their  manner  of  life  appear- 
ed to  be  nearly  the  same.  With  the  broad  nose 
and  small  eyes,  which  peculiarly  distinguish  tlie 
whole  Esquimaux  tribes,  they  had  the  cheekbones 
less  projecting  than  those  of  the  eastern  coast.  From 
a  constant  exposure  to  the  glare  of  the  ice  and  snow, 
the  whole  party  were  afllicted  with  sore  eyes,  and 
two  of  the  old  men  seemed  nearly  blind.  Thev 
wore  the  hair  on  the  upper  lip  and  chin,  and  every 
man  had  pieces  of  bone  or  shells  thrust  through  tlu' 
septum  of  the  nose,  whilst  holes  were  pierced  on 
<'ach  side  of  the  under  li[),  in  which  were  placed 
circular  pieces  of  ivory  with  a  large  blue  bead  in 
the  centre, — ornaments  which  they  valued  highly, 
and  declined  selling.  Their  clothes  consisted  of  a 
jacket  of  rein-deer  skin,  with  a  skirt  behind  and 
before,  and  a  small  liood ;  breeches  of  the  sanit 
material,  and  large  seal-skin  boots.  The  dress  of 
the  females  differed  from  that  of  the  men  only  in 
their  wearing  wide  trousers,  and  in  the  size  of  their 
lioods,  which  did  not  fit  close  to  the  head,  but  were 
made  large  for  the  purpose  of  receiving  their  chil- 
dren :  these  were  ornamented  with  stripes  of  dif- 
ferent coloured  skins,  and  round  the  top  was  fas- 
tened  a  band  of  wolf's  hair,  made  to  stand  erect. 
The  women  were  from  four  feet  and  a  half  to  four 
feet  three  quarters  high,  and  some  of  the  younger, 
though  too  corpulent,  were  pretty  ;  their  black  hair 
was  tastefully  turned  up  from  behind  to  the  top  of 
the  headj  and  braided  with  strings  of  white  and 


I  HEIR   I)Ki:SS  AND  MANNERS. 


2(11) 


daiigliiii,' 
]g  to  their 

were  ro- 
jt  coast  l»v 

• 

fe  appear- 
)road  nose 
iguish  tilt' 
iliet'kboncs 
ast.  From 
and  SHOW. 
eyes,  and 
nd.     Tlu'v 

• 

and  every 
hrough  tln' 
pierced  on 
,'ere  placed 
le  bead  in 
led  highly, 
isisted  of  a 
)ehind  and 

the  sanit 

he  dress  of 
en  onlv  in 
ize  of  their 
I,  but  were 

their  chil- 
ipes  of  dif- 

op  was  fas- 

tand  erect. 

lalf  to  four 

e  younger. 

black  luiir 
the  top  of 

white  and 


blue  beads  and  cords  of  white  deer-skin.  Both 
men  and  women  were  much  pleased  by  liaviuir  tlu'ir 
portraits  sketched  by  Captain  Back ;  and  one  young 
iH'ly,  who  sat  for  a  full-h'ngtli  and  chose  the  extra- 
ordinary attitude  of  stufling  both  iiands  into  lier 
breeches-pockets,  interrupted  the  labours  of  the 
draughtsman  by  repeatedly  jumping  into  the  air, 
and  smiling  in  a  verv  ludicrous  and  irresistible 
manner.  The  men  were  armed  with  bows  and  ar- 
rows, long  knives,  which  they  concealed  in  the  shirt- 
sleeve, and  spears  tipped  with  bone." 

*  Franldin's  Second  Journey,  pj).  IH',  111). 


270 


JOINTS  SABINE  AND  KAY. 


Tlie  Esquimaux  liacl  predicted,  that  as  soon  as  ii 
strong  wind  began  to  blow  from  tlie  land  it  would 
loosen  the  ice ;  and  on  12th  July  a  lieavy  rain  with  a 
pretty  high  gale  set  in,  and  opened  up  a  passage.  Tlic 
boats  accordingly  were  launched;  and,  passing  ;> 
wide  bay  named  by  the  commander  after  his  friends 
Captains  Sabine  and  King,  they  were  suddenly  ar. 
rested  by  a  compact  body  of  ice,  and  enveloped  at 
the  same  time  in  a  dense  fog.  On  attempting  to 
pull  back  for  the  purpose  of  landing,  they  discover, 
ed  that  the  ice  had  closed  between  them  and  tin 
shore.  In  this  situation  only  one  alternative  was 
left,  which  was  to  pull  to  seaward  and  trace  th« 
outer  border  of  the  ice.  This  they  at  last  effected ; 
though  a  sudden  change  of  wind  brought  on  a  heavy 
swell,  and  surrounded  them  with  floating  masses  of 
ice,  which  threatened  to  crush  the  boats  to  pieeis. 
They  succeeded,  however,  after  five  hours  employed 
in  pulling  in  and  out  between  these  floating  icebergs, 
in  reaching  the  shore  and  landing  a  little  to  the  west 
of  Point  Sabine.  After  a  detention  of  two  days  they 
proceeded  as  far  as  Point  Kay ;  but  being  here  again 
impeded  by  a  compact  body  of  ice,  which  extended 
to  seaward  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  they  were 
obliged  to  encamp  and  wait  patiently  for  the  firsi 
strong  breeze  from  the  land. 

The  time  of  their  sojourn  in  these  arctic  solitudes 
was  pleasantly  occupied  in  making  astronomical  ob- 
servations, collecting  specimens  of  the  plants  in 
flower,  sketching  scenery,  and  completing  charts  of 
the  coast.  Augustus  went  in  search  of  his  comitry- 
men,  and  returned  at  night  with  a  young  Esqui- 
maux and  his  wife,  who,  after  a  few  presents,  becani< 
loquacious,  and  informed  them  that  the  ice  would 


UKUSCHEL  ISLAND. 


271 


soon  as  a 
it  would 
lin  with  ;i 
jage.  Till' 
passing  ;» 
lis  friends 
Idenly  ar- 
^eloped  nl 
mpting  to 
'  discover. 
1  and  the 
lative  was 
trace  tlv 
;t  eifected ; 
on  a  heavy 
7  masses  of 
3  to  piect's, 
3  employed 
ig  icebergs, 
to  the  west 
d  days  they 
here  again 
1  extended 
they  were 
r  the  firsi 


soon  break  up.  Symptoms  0  this  desirable  change 
were  accordingly  observed  next  day,  and  with  great 
labour  they  reached  Herschel  Island.  At  tin;  mo- 
ment they  made  the  shore  a  herd  of  rein-deer  came 
bounding  down  to  the  beach,  pursued  by  three 
Esquimaux  hunters,  and  immediately  took  the 
water,  whilst  the  natives,  startled  at  sight  of  the 
strangers,  gazed  tor  a  moment,  consulted  amongst 
themselves,  changed  the  heads  of  their  arrows,  and 
prepare  d  their  bows.  Their  hostile  intentions,  how- 
ever, were  laid  aside  when  they  were  addressed  by 
Augustus ;  and  iji  the  evening  a  large  party  arrived, 
bringing  dried  meat,  fish,  and  game,  for  which  they 
received  presents  in  exchange,  which  set  them  sing- 
ing and  dancing  round  the  encampment  for  the 
','reater  part  of  the  night. 

From  these  people  was  collected  some  curious  in- 
formation. They  stated  that  they  procured  beads, 
knives,  and  iron,  principally  from  Esquimaux  re- 
siding far  away  to  the  west,  and  also  from  Indians 
who  came  annually  from  the  interior  by  a  river  di- 
rectly opposite  the  encampment,  to  which  Captain 
Franklin  gave  the  name  of  Mountain  Indian  River.* 
Whence  the  Indians  or  the  Esquimaux  obtained  these 
ioods  they  could  not  tell,  but  supposed  it  was  from 
Kabloonacht  or  white  men,  at  a  great  distance  to  the 
west.  The  articles  were  not  of  British  manufacture, 
from  which  Captain  Franklin  concluded  that  the 
Kabloonacht  must  be  the  Russian  fur-traders. 

It  was  with  great  difficulty  that  the  boats  made 
even  a  short  distance  from  Herschel  Island.  The  ice 
repeatedly  closed  in  upon  them,  leaving  only  a  nar- 


Franklin's  Secoad  Journey,  pp.  130,  131. 


272 


DENSE  FOGS. 


row  channol,  often  toosliallow  to  float  the  boats,  and 
dense  fogs  now  beeanK.'  frequent,  rendering  their  na- 
vigation peeuliarly  liazardoiis.  Tliese  dreary  eurtains 
hanging  over  tlie  iee  gave  it  tlie  appearance  of  water, 
and  exposed  tlien)  to  tlie  danger  of  being  shut  in  l)y 
an  impenetrable  barrier  when  they  expected  an  open 
sea.  They  continued  their  course,  however,  till 
tliev  came  abreast  of  Mount  Conybeare,  when  tlicv 
encamped,  and  crossing  a  swampy  level  ascended  to 
tlie  summit,  from  which  tlu^y  enjoyed  a  strikini; 
view  into  the  interior.  Three  noble  ranges  of  mouii- 
tains  were  seen  parallel  to  the  Buckland  chain,  but 
of  less  altitude,  whilst  the  prospect  was  bounded  by 
a  fourth  range,  mingling  their  pyramidal  summits 
with  the  clouds,  and  covered  with  snow.  From 
this  last  encampment  their  advance  was  extremely 
slow.  The  boats  were  pushed  forward  througli 
small  lanes,  the  utmost  vigilance  being  necessary 
to  prevent  their  being  entirely  shut  in^  as  a  fe^v 
hours  often  made  essential  changes,  and  their 
frail  craft  could  only  l)e  saved  by  being  frequently 
hauled  upon  the  beach.  The  calm  weather  also  re- 
tarded them,  and  they  earnestly  longed  for  a  stroii;' 
gale  to  break  up  the  compacted  fields  of  ice,  and 
permit  them  to  continue  their  voyage. 

After  a  detention  of  some  days  their  wishes  seem- 
(Hi  about  to  be  gratified  :  At  midnight,  on  the  25tli 
July,  a  strong  south-westerly  breeze  sprung  up, 
accompanied  by  thunder  and  lightning ;  but  in  the 
morning  an  impenetrable  fog  hung  over  the  sea. 
On  the  land  side  the  prospect  was  equally  dreary; 
an  extensive  swamp,  in  which  they  sunk  ankle-deep 
at  every  step,  prevented  any  excursions  into  the  in- 
terior, and  the  clouds  of  musquitoes  wiiicli  for  ever 


CLAHKNCE   IlIVKU. 


)oats,  ami 
r  their  na- 
y  curtains 
.» of  water, 
jluit  in  by 
xl  an  open 
vever^  till 
^vlien  tlu'V 
scended  to 
a  striking 
s  of  niouii- 
cbain,  but 
lounded  by 
\\  summits 
)W.     From 
1  extremely 
rd  through 
r  necessary 
,  as  a  fe\v 
and    their 
frecjuently 
her  also  re- 
"or  a  strong 
)['  ice,  and 


buzzed  around  them  k<'|)t  them  in  a  perpetual  irrita- 
tion. At  length,  however,  the  fo<f  dispersed,  diselos- 
inij  an  open  Jane  of  water  about  half  a  mile  from 
shore  ;  follovving  its  course  for  eight  miles  they  <'ame 
to  the  mouth  of  a  wide  river,  which  had  its  rise;  in  tlie 
Hritish  range  of  mountains.  Its  course  approached 
near  tlu*  line  of  d<'marcation  between  the  American 
dominions  of  (ireat  Britain  and  Kussia,  and  Cap- 
lain  Franklin  named  it  the  Clarence  River  after 
his  present  JMajesty,  then  Lord  High  Admiral. 
On  the  most  elevated  part  of  the  coast  near  its 
mouth  tliey  erected  a  pile  of  drift  wood,  under 
which  was  deposited  a  tin  box,  containing  a  royal 
silver  medal,  and  an  account  of  the  proce'cdings  of 
the  expedition;  after  which  the  Union  flag  was  lioist- 
ed  with  three  liearty  cheers. 

They  now  coiUinucnl  their  voyage,  though  often 
beset  by  ice  and  interrupted  by  fogs,  and  passing  the 
boundary  between  Russian  and  British  America  des- 
cried an  encampment  of  natives  on  a  low  island,  sur- 
rounded by  many  ooraiaks  and  kayaks  guarded  by 
Esquimaux  dogs,  whilst  their  masters  were  fast  asleep 
in  the  tents.  The  interpreter  being  despatclied  to  rouse 
them,  a  singular  scene  took  place.     At  his  first  call  a 
Httle  squabby  woman  rushed  out  in  a  state  of  perfect 
nudity,  uttered  a  loud  yell,  and  instantly  ran  back 
again  to  rouse  her  husband,  who,  shouting  out  that 
strangers  were  at  hand,  awoke  the  whole  band.    In 
a  moment  all  seized  their  arms,  and  without  wait- 
ing to  put  on  their  deer-skin  breeches  or  jackets, 
swarmed  out  upon  the  beach,  which  in  an  instant 
was  covered  with  fifty-four  grown-up  persons  com- 
pletely naked,  very  outrag(>ous,  dirty,  and  ugly.    A 
iihort  parley  quieted  their  fears,  an  interchange  oi" 

11 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEQSTER.N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


L^. 


«■ 


274 


MOUNT  COPLESTON. 


presents  took  place,  and  the  boats  crossed  Camden 
Bay,  having  in  view  the  noi'le  range  of  tlie  Ronian- 
zofflMoun tains,  whose  peaks  were  covered  with  snow. 
Soon  after  they  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  a  river, 
whicli  disehar(jed  into  the  sea  so  great  a  vol  unit' 
of  water,   that   even    three    mih's   from    land   tli«' 
taste  was  perfectly  fresh  ;  and  having  reached  lati- 
tude  "JO^  7',  farther  progress  was  prevented  by  ice 
closely  packed  on  the  outer  border  of  a  reef,  and 
they  discovered  that  the  great  chain  of  the  l^ocky 
iNIountains  either  terminated  abreast  of  their  pre 
sent  situation,  or  receded  so  far  to  the  southward 
as  to  fade  away   in   the  distance.      During  their 
detention  Captain  Back,  to  whose  pencil   we  are 
indebted  for  many  admirable   drawings  of  aretie 
scenery,  mHd(!  a  skct'h  of  the  most  western  moun- 
tain, which  they  named  JMount  Copleston.*   Various 
circumstances  iu)w  warned  them  that  much  farther 
progress  along  this  inhospitable  coast  was  impraeti- 
cable.    The  fogs  became  more  frequent  and  perilous. 
the  water  was  often  so  shallow  that  even  at  two 
miles  from  shore  the  boats  grounded,  and  on  gettinu 
into  deeper  soundings,  the  repeated  shocks  received 
from  masses  of  floating  ice  severely  injured  their 
timbers,  especially  those  of  the  Lion,  which  was  very 
leaky.    8til!  they  struggled  on  from  Flaxman  Island 
along  a  low  desolate  shore,  rendered  more  dreary  by 
the  stormy  weather,  till  on  the  10th  a  gale  brought 
along  with  it  a  thick  fog,  and  they  hauled  up  the 
boats,  eiicamping  (Hi  a  low  spot,  which  they  named 
Foggy  Island.     Here  they  kindled  fires,  dried  their  | 
<'lothes,  which  were  completely  wet  with  the  niois- 

"  Frunkliii's  Second  Journey,  [).  150.     See  tlie  VigneUe  to  thi; 
Volume. 


ILLUSIONS  OP  TH?:  FOG. 


"^^ 


d  Camden 
le  Ronian- 
witli  snow, 
of  a  river, 
,  a  volunu' 
I   land   tlic 
•ached  lati- 
iited  l)Y  ice 
a  reef,  and 
'  the  Roeky 
f  their  pre. 
southward 
luring  tlu'ir 
neil   we  are 
gs  of  arctic 
stern  nioun- 
n.*   Varioib 
nueh  tarthcr 
as  impracti- 
nd  perilous. 
_'ven  at  two 
lid  on  gettinn 
)('ks  received 
Injured  their 
ich  was  very 
man  Island 
re  dreary  by 
gale  brou^dil 
uled  up  the 
they  named 
(,  dried  their 
X\\  the  mois- 


ture of  the  atmosphere,  and  amused  themselves  in 
their  murky  prison  hy  proceeding  in  search  of  rein- 
ileer.    Tiie  fog  caused  frequent  and  sometimes  ludi- 
(Tous  mistakes  ;  and  on  one  occasion,  after  the  men 
had  spent  a  long  time  in  stealing  upon  some  ileer,  and 
were  congratulating  themselves  on  coming  within 
^llot,  to  their  amazement  the  animals  took  wing  and 
disappeared  in  the  fog,  with  a  scream  and   cackle 
which  at  once  declared  their  genus,  and  seemed  to 
deride  the  credulity  of  their  pursuers.     "We  wit- 
nessed with  regret,"  says  Captain   Franklin,  "  in 
these  short  rambles,  the  havock  which  this  dreary 
weather  made  among  the  llowers.    lAIany  which  had 
been  hlooming  upon  our  arrival  were   now  lying 
prostrate  and  withered,  and  these  symptoms  of  d?- 
•ay  could  not  fail  painfully  to  remind  us  tliat  the 
term  of  our  operations  was  fast  approaching.     Often 
Hi  this  time  did  every  one  express  a  wish  that  we 
had  some  decked  vessel,  in  which  the   provisions 
■auld  be  secured  from  the  injury  of  salt  water,  and 
the  crew  sheltered  when  they  required  rest,  that  we 
might  quit  this  shallow  coast  and  steer  at  once  to- 
wards Icy  Cape."*  So  frequently  tli<l  they  attempt  to 
fulfil  this  desire,  and  so  perpetually  were  they  driven 
I'ack  by  the  fog  closing  in  upon  them,  that  the  sail- 
iirs  declared  the  island  was  enchanted.     Indeed,  \o 
H superstitious  mind,  the  appearances  furnished  some 
LTound  for  believing  it.     The  fog  would  often  dis- 
|M'rse,  and  permit  a  short  glimpse  of  a  point  about 
three  miles  distant,  bearing  north-west  by  west ; 
n  a  moment  every  hand  was  at  work,  the  boats 
\vere  launched,  the  crews  embarked;  but  before  tliey 


IvigneUe  to  tin: 


Franklin's  Second  Journey,  jj.  154. 


t>7«) 


i)iriM(M'L'i  ii:s. 


t'oiild  he  drammed  into  deep  water  tlic  spirit  of  the 
mist  once  more  (Irc.v  his  impciietrabic  curtain  round 
them,  and  after  restini^  a  while  on  their  oars,  thev 
wen;  eonipeih'd   to  pull  back  to  their  old  quarters. 
Scarcely  had  thev  kindled  a  lire  and  beLaui  to  dry 
their  clothes,  soaked    with    wadinjr  over   the  flats, 
when  the  tb<Tairain  opened,  the  boats  were  launched, 
and  the  desired  point  almost  ^^aihed  ;  but  their  tor- 
mentor once  more  enveloped  earth  and  ocean  in  ii 
thicker  jrloom  than  before.     "^  Fog  is,  of  all  others, 
says  Captain  Franklin,  "  the  most  hazardous  stab 
of  the  atmos[)here  for  iiavi«;alioii  in  an  icy  sea,  es- 
pecially where  it  is  accompanied  ])y  strong  breezes; 
but  particularly  so  for  boats  where  the  shore  is  uri- 
approachahle.    If  caugiit  by  a  gale,  a  heavy  swell,  or 
drifting  ice,  the  result  must  be  their  wreck,  or  tin 
throwing  th<'ir  provisions  overboard,  to  lighten  them 
so  as  to  |)roceed  in  shoal-water.     iMany  large  pieeo 
of  ice  were  seen  on  the  border  of  the  shallow  water 
and  from  the  lowiiessof  the  temperature  sve  conclud- 
ed that  the  main  hody  was  at  no  great  distance."" 
The  nights  were  now  lengthening;  the  grasses  and 
tlic  whole  aspect  of  the  vegetation  was  autumnal 
their  stores  of  drift-wood  had  been  so  much  drawn | 
upon,  thai  though  the  tents  were  wet  through,  aiK 
they  were  for  warmth  obliged  to  wrap  their  feet  iiii 
blankets,  no  lire  was   allowed  except   to  cook  tin 
victuals.     The  i)rovisions  were  barely  sufficient  fdrl 
the  support  of  the   party  on   tlieir  return,   wlii!-![ 
the  frequency  of  the  fogs,  tiie  shallowness  wliid 
prevented  the  boats  from  floating,  the  lu'avy  swtll 
that,  as  the  wind  freshened,  rose   U}U)n  the   tlalv 


'    i-.Miil  lin  i  Sot  und  Jmirney?  p-  l^t>. 


AlMMfOACn  OK  w  iNTi;r». 


'2:i 


jirit  oi"  the 
rtain  round 
oars,  tht'v 
d  quarters, 
gun  to  dry 
r  tlu'  flats, 
•{'  launc'licd 
Lit  their  tor- 
ocean  in  ii 
'  all  others,' 
sirdous  stalt 
icy  sea,  (,s- 
jng  breezes ; 
shore  is  uii- 
avy  swell,  or 
vreck,  or  tin 
lijlhten  them 
'  lariie  pieces 
allow  water. 
we  conelud- 
distance."^ 
e  grasses  aiul 
^  autumnal 
much  drawn 
hrough,  ami 
their  feet  in 
to  cook  till 
ufficient  for] 
turn,  Nvlii!^ 
^viiess  wliid 
iieavv  swl: 
1)11  the   llatN 

6. 


coiiipelled  them  1.)  iiaul  farther  from  land,  and  llir 
danger  which  in  <loing  so  they  necessarily  incurred 
from  th<'  drift-ic, — formed  an  accumulation  of 
dilliculties  which  rendered  their  progress  from  Point 
Anxiety  across  Prudhoc  JJav  to  Return  Keef  the 
most  discouraging  and  painful  part  of  the  uholr 
voyage.  It  was  now  the  lOth  of  August,  and  the 
l)oats,  though  the  exertions  of  the  crews  had  heen 
unwearied,  w<»re  onlv  half-way  l)etw<'<'n  the  mouth 
of  Mackenzie  Hiyer  and  Icy  Cape.  The  youu'^  ice 
had  already  begun  to  form  at  niijht  on  the  pools  of 
fresh  water,  and  the  mind  of  the  commander  re- 
oiirn^d  naturally  and  wisely  to  his  former  experience. 
He  recollected  that  only  one  day  lat"r,  and  in  a  la- 
titude  two  degrees  mon»  southerly,  he  had  in  his 
first  yoyage  encountered  severe  storms  of  wind  and 
snow,  and  that  in  another  fortnight  the  wint<'r  would 
set  in  with  all  its  horrors.  Already  the  sun  begaii 
to  sink  l)elow  the  horizon,  and  with  this  change  the 
mean  tem[)erature  of  tlu'  atmosphere  rapidly  de- 
creased ;  the  deer  were  hastening  from  the  coast ;  the 
Ksquimaux  had  ceased  to  a(>j)ear  ;  no  winter  houses 
jiave  indications  that  this  remote  coast  was  inhabit- 
ed; and  the  autumnal  parties  of  geese  hourly  wii:g- 
ing  their  flight  to  the  westward,  indicated  that  win- 
ter had  already  surj)rised  them  in  tlieir  polar  .soli- 
tudes. It  had  been  Franklin's  great  object  to  doubh' 
Icy  Cape,  and  meet  tin*  expedifion  under  Ca[)tain 
Heechey  in  Kotzebue's  Inlet;  but  from  the  distance 
and  the  advanced  season  this  was  now  impracticabh'. 
On  the  other  hand,  his  instructions  directed  him, 
"if,  in  consequence  of  slow  progress,  or  other  un- 
foreseen accident,  it  should  remain  doubtful  whether 
the  expedition  should  be  able  to  reach  Kotzebue's 


'2'Jil      THE   EXPEDITION  COMPELLED  TO  IlETUUN. 


Inlet  the  same  season,  to  coinmence  their  return  on 
the  15th  or  20th  of  Aii<,aist."     To  relinquish   th. 
great  ol)je('t  of  his  ainhition,  and  to  disappoint  tin 
eonfidenee  reposed  in  Iiis  exertions,  was  a  saerifict 
wliieh  eost  liini  no  ordinary  pain  ;  and  had  he  heeii 
then  aware  of  tlie  fact  (with  which  the  reader  will 
l)e  immediately  acrjuainted)   that  the   harjje  o^  tin 
Blossom  was  at  that  moment  only  14(5  mih-s  dis. 
tant,  we  have  his  own  autiiority  for  stating  tliat  iin 
difficulties  or  dang<Ts  would  iiave  prevailed  on  him 
to  return  ;  but,  under  the  circumstances  in  which  In 
was  placed,  to  make  any  farther  effort  in  advance  was 
incompatible  with  the  higher  duties  which  lie  owtd 
to  his  ofllcers  and  crew.     After  a  mature  considera- 
tion  of  every  thing,  he  formed  the  reluctant  conclu- 
sion that  they  had  reached  the  point  where  perse- 
\  erance  would  have  been  rashness,  and  their  best 
efforts  must  have  only  led  to  a  more  calamitous  fail- 
ure.*     It  was  resolved  therefore  to  return  ;  and  on 
the  morning  of  the  18th  August  they  began  tlitii 
retreat  to  the  Mackenzie  River,  which,   withuui 
any  material  danger,  with  the  exception  of  a  seven 
gale  encountered  off  Point  Kay,  they  regained  (ni 
tiie  4th  of  September.     Thence  they  proceeded  tc 
Fort  Franklin,  where  they  met  Dr  Richardson,  31r 
Kendall,  and  their  friends  of  the  eastern  expedition, 
who,  after  a  prosperous  and  interesting  voyage  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Coppermine,  had  returned  to  tin 
Fort  on  the  1st  September. 

Of  this  interesting  journey  our  limits  will  only 
permit  a  very  cursory  glance.  Fortunately  for  tin 
eastern  expedition,  the  coast  between  the  moutli> 


*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  pp.  1(»1,  102,  HI5. 


RKTl'UN 

'ir  rcturii  on 
inquish  tli< 
)ai)p<)int  till 
,s  a  sacrifnv 
had  he  been 
•  reader  will 
l)ar<je  o^  thi 
U)  miU's  dis. 
Lting  tluit  iiii 
ailed  on  liiiii 
J  iiiwiiich  lit 
advance  was 
licii  lie  owt'd 
re  eonsidera. 
•tant  conc'lu- 
where  perse- 
id  their  lust 
amitous  fail- 
urn  ;  and  on 
lu'gan  tlit'ir 
eh,  withoui 
n  of  a  seven 
regained  on 
proceeded  ti' 
hardson,  3Ir 
1  expedition, 
jg  voyaije  to 
Lirned  to  tin 

ts  will  only 
itely  for  tlu 
the  mouths 

2,  n;5. 


EASTERN  EXPEDITION. 


270 


i»f  the  JMaekenzie  and  the  Coppermine  Rivers  pre- 
•,eiited  none  of  those  serious  obstacles  which  at  every 
step  were  starting'  up  in  the  dreary  and  protracted 
route  of  the  western  party  ;  and  they  consequently 
accomplished  a  voyage  of  about  ')()()  miles,  between 
(he  4th  of  Julv  and  8th  of  Au«just.  It  was  (mi- 
iicntly  successful  in  the  accurate  survey  of  this 
hitherto  unexplored  coast,  but  unvaried  by  any  re- 
markable incidents.  The  Escjuimaux  on  various 
parts  of  the  coast  were  more  numerous,  pacific,  com- 
tortable,  and  wealthy,  than  the  western  tribes;  but 
their  civilisation  had  not  eradicated  the  propensities 
for  thieving.  On  one  occasion  the  boats  were  sur- 
rounded by  a  lleet  of  about  fifty  kayaks,  and  an 
attack  was  made  exactly  similar  to  that  upon  Frank- 
lin ;  but  though  the  object  was  the  same  it  was 
pursued  with  less  vigour,  and  the  moment  the  sailors 
levelled  their  muskets  the  whole  party  dispersed 
with  precipitation. 

On  arriving  at  Atkinson  Island  they  discovered, 
under  shelter  of  a  chain  of  sand-hills  drifted  by  the 
wind  to  the  height  of  thirty  feet,  a  small  Esquiinaux 
town,  consisting  of  seventeen  winter  houses,  besides  a 
larger  building,  which  Dr  Richardson  at  first  conjec- 
tured to  be  a  house  of  assembly  for  the  tribe.  Oolig- 
huck  the  interpreter,  however,  whose  ideas  were  more 
S.TOSS  and  commonplace,  pronounced  it  to  be  a  gene- 
ral eating-room.  "  This  large  building,"  says  Dr 
Richardson,  "  was  in  the  interior  a  square  cf  twenty- 
seven  feet,  having  the  log  roof  supported  on  two  strong 
ridge-poles  two  feet  apart,  and  resting  on  four  up- 
right posts.  The  floor  in  the  centre  formed  of  split 
logs,  drest  and  laid  with  great  care,  was  surrounded 
hy  a  raised  border  about  three  feet  wide,  which  was 


2i\0 


KSQUIMAIIX  TOWN. 


110  (louht  nicMiit  for  s<'}its.  The  walls  tlirci'  feet  liifjii 
wore  inclined  outwards,  for  tlir  coin^'iiicncc  of  lean- 
ing tlio  hack  a<,'aiiist  tlicin,  and  the  ascent  to  the 
door,  w!)icli  was  on  tlie  soutli  side,  was  fornied  nf 
logs.  TIk'  outside,  which  was  cov<'re(l  with  earth, 
had  nearly  a  hemispherical  I'orni,  and  round  its  hasc 
were  ranwd  the  skulls  of  tweiitv-one  whales.  Then 
was  a  s(juare  hole  in  the  roof,  and  the  central  loijof 
th<'  floor  had  a  l)asin-sha|>ed  cavity  one  foot  in 
diameter,  which  was  perhaps  intended  for  a  lamp. 
The  <j[eneral  attention  to  comfort  in  the  construction 
of  the  village,  and  the  erection  of  a  huilding  of  such 
magnitude,  requiring  a  union  of  purpose  in  a  con- 
siderable nuniher  of  people,  were  evidences  of  a  nion 
advanced  progress  towards  civilisation  than  had  ytt 
beeii  found  amongst  the  Esquimaux.  Whale-skulls 
Wfc/e  confmed  to  the  large  building,  and  to  one  of 
the  dwelling-houses,  which  had  three  or  four  placed 
round  it.  i\Jany  wooden  trays  and  hand-barrows 
for  carrying  whale-blubber  were  lyingon  the  ground, 
most  of  them  in  a  state  of  decay."" 

On  making  the  traverse  of  Ilarrowby  Bay,  land 
was  seen  round  the  bottom  ;  and  on  nearing  shon 
twelve  tents  were  distinguished  on  an  adjoining 
eminence.  When  the  boats  appeared,  a  woman 
who  was  walking  along  the  beach,  gave  the  alarm 
and  tlv»  men  rushed  out,  brandishing  their  knives, 
and  employing  the  most  furi'Uis  expressions.  In  vain 
Ooligbuck  endeavoured  to  calm  their  apprehensions, 
explaining  that  the  strangers  were  friends ;  they 
only  replied  by  shouts,  leaps,  or  hideous  grimaces, 
n tended  to  inspire  terror,  and  displayed  great  agi- 


*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  \\  217. 


lity 
the 
son. 
thoi 

COUi 

*  1 

a  sp 

of  t 

and 

alon 

and 

and 

like 

feat  I 

the 

Eun 

fecti 

their 

haza 

k'adi 

by  a] 

hrea.s 

wliih 

her  { 

spair, 

prese 

("able 

tude, 

lime 

invitf 

they 

herali 

their 

carry 


DKSCRIPTION  OF  TIIK  NATIVMS. 


2VA 


M'  f<M't  liicli 
ICC  of  Icau- 
•ciit  to  tile 
formed  of 
vith  cartli, 
md  its  hasc 
lies.    TlicPf 
iitnil  l()<,n)f 
me  foot  in 
for  a  lamp, 
onstruction  ' 
lin<f  of  such 
se  in  a  con- 
es  of  a  inort 
liaii  had  vet ; 
niale-skulls 
d  to  one  of 
four  placed 
iid-barrows 
the  ground, 

]^ay,  land 
rin<f  short 
adjoining 
a  woman 
the  alarm 
eir  knives, 
ns.  In  vain 
ireliensions, 
ends;  they 
grimaces, 
I  great  agi- 


hty,  frequently  standing  on  one  foot  and  throwing 
the  other  nearly  as  hiiih  as  their  head.  I)r  Richard- 
son,  nothintf  iiktimidated  hy  these  gesticulations,  be- 
thought himself  of  cnounciniT,  at  the  highest  key  he 
rould  reach,  the  word  "  Xoowo'rlawgo,"  meaning, 
•'  I  wish  to  barter,"  and  the  sound  operated  likj' 
a  sju'll.  The  savages  instantly  i)ecame  (|uiet  ;  one 
of  them  ran  to  iiis  kayak,  paddled  olf  to  the  boats, 
and  was  followed  by  crowds,  who  fearlessly  came 
alongside,  readily  exchaniiing  bows,  arrows,  spc^ars, 
and  dressed  seal-skins,  for  bits  of  old  iron-hoop,  files, 
fUid  beads.  '^  The  females,"  says  Hichardson,  "  un- 
like those  of  the  Indian  tribes,  had  much  handsomer 
features  than  the  men  ;  and  one  young  woman  of 
the  ])arty  would  have  been  deemed  j)retty  even  in 
Europe.  Our  |)resents  seemed  to  render  them  per- 
fectly iiappy,  and  they  danced  with  such  ecstasy  in 
their  slender  boats  as  to  incur  more  than  once  great 
hazard  of  being  overset.  A  bundle  of  strings  of 
beads  being  thrown  into  an  oomiak,  it  was  caught 
by  an  old  woman,  who  liugged  the  treasure  to  her 
!tr(!ast  with  the  strongest  expression  of  rapture ; 
while  anotlu'r  elderly  dame,  who  iiad  stretehed  out 
her  arms  in  vain,  became  the  very  picture  of  de- 
spair. On  its  being  explained,  liowever,  that  the 
present  was  intended  for  the  whole  party,  an  ami- 
cable division  took  place;  and  to  show  their  grati- 
tude, they  sang  a  song  ij  a  pleasing  air,  keeping 
time  with  their  oars.  They  gave  us  many  pressing 
invitations  to  pass  the  night  at  their  tents,  in  whidi 
they  were  joined  by  the  men ;  and  to  excite  our  li- 
berality the  mothers  drew  their  children  out  of 
their  wide  boots,  where  they  are  accustomed  to 
carry  them  naked,  and  holding  them  up,  begged 


282 


THE  COPPKRMINK  HIVKR. 


beads  for  tlicm.  For  a  time  their  entreaties  \ver» 
sueeessfiil  ;  hut  hein^ch'siroiis  of  ^ettiiii;  elear  of  our 
visiters  before  l)reakfaHt-tiine,  we  at  Ien<j[th  tohl  them 
the  stock  was  exiiausted,  and  they  took  leave."* 

The  voyage,  owiiij^  to  the  eh'ar  atmosphere,  th( 
uneiieunibered  state  of  the  eoast,  and  the  abunihuit 
supply  of  j)rovisions,  was  pursued  with  ease  and  eoni- 
fort ;  and  on  8th  August  having  made  a  bold  cape, 
rising  precii)itous'y  from  the  s<'a  to  the  height  of  .'i."){l 
feet,  J3r  Hiehardson  and  JMr  Kendall  elimbed  tlit 
promontory,  and  descried  in  the  distance  the  gap  in 
the  liills  at  Bloody  Fall,  througli  which  the  Copper. 
mine  holds  its  course.  Delighted  with  the  prospcd 
of  so  near  a  termination  of  their  labours,  they  com- 
municated  the  intelligence  to  the  crew,  who  received 
it  with  expressions  of  profound  gratitude  to  the  Di- 
vine  Being  for  his  protection  during  the  voyage.  On 
reaching  the  river  the  men  were  in  excellent  con- 
dition, fresh  and  vigorous  for  the  march  across  the 
barren  grounds  on  their  return  to  Fort  Franklin, 
wliich,  as  already  mentioned,  they  reached  in 
safety  on  the  1st  of  September.  On  approach- 
ing within  a  few  days'  journey  of  the  fort,  a  plea- 
sant  adventure  occurred,  characteristic  of  Indian 
gratitude  and  friendship.  The  party  had  supped, 
and  most  of  the  men  were  retired  to  rest,  when  Mr 
Kendall,  in  sweeping  the  horizon  with  his  telescope, 
descried  three  Indians  coming  down  a  hill  towards 
the  encampment.  I\fore  moss  was  thrown  on  the 
fire,  and  the  St  George's  ensign  hoisted  on  the  end 
of  a  musket,  to  show  the  comers  that  they  were  ap- 
proaching friends;  but  they  hid  the  youngest  of 


*  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  226. 


RETURN  TO  FORT  FRANKLIN. 


'M^ 


»atit's  wen 
li-ar  of  our 
I  told  them 
'av(?.  * 
pluTc,  tlic 
al)iiii(liinl 
f  and  coiii- 
\,o\(\  ('apt', 
ight  of  ',\i'ii) 
iinbt'd  tlif 
tlu'  ga])  ill 
lie  Copper- 
he  prospect 
they  coin. 
ho  received 
to  the  \)l 
oyage.  On 
el  lent  con- 
across  tlif 
Franklin, 
reached   in 
approach - 
rt,  a  plea- 
of  Indian 
ad  supped, 
when  iMr 
s  telescope, 
ill  towards 
wn  on  the 
on  the  end 
y  were  ap- 
^oungest  of 


their  nuniher  in  a  ravine,  and  approached  slowly 
and  with  suspicion.  Mr  Kendall  and  l)r  Uichanl- 
son  iinniediatelv  went  unarmed  to  meet  them,  and 
as  they  came  up  one  held  his  how  and  arrows  n-ady 
in  his  hand,  and  the  other  cocked  his  gun  ;  hut 
as  soon  as  they  recognised  the  l)o<*tor's  dress, — the 
same  he  had  worn  the  preceding  autumn  in  his 
voyage  round  IJear  Lake,  and  which  was  familiar 
to  most  of  the  Hare  Indians, — they  shouted  in  an 
ecstasy  of  joy,  shook  hands  most  cordially,  and  called 
loudlv  for  the  voung  lad  whom  they  had  hid  to 
come  up.  "  The  meeting,"  says  Dr  Richardson, 
'  was  highly  gratifying  to  ourselves  as  well  as  to 
the  kind  natives:  for  thev  seemed  to  he  friends 
come  to  rejoice  with  us  on  the  happy  termination 
of  our  voyage."* 

It  had  naturally  occurred  to  government,  that 
if  the  expeditions  under  Captains  Parry  and  Frank- 
lin should  be  successful,  their  stores  would  be  ex- 
hausted by  the  time  they  reached  liehring's  iStrait. 
It  was  certain  also  that  Franklin  would  be  destitute 
of  any  means  of  conveyance  to  Europe;  and  to 
supply  these  wants  government  resolved  that  a  ves- 
sel should  be  sent  out  to  await  tlieir  arrival  in  Beh- 
ring's  Strait.  For  this  purpose,  accordingly,  Cap- 
tain F.  W.  Beechey  sailed  in   the   Blossom  from 

ft' 

Spithead  on  the  19th  IMay  1825.  The  vessel  was 
a  twenty-six-gun  ship  ;  but  on  this  occasion  mount- 
ed only  sixteen.  She  was  partially  strengthened, 
and  adapted  to  this  peculiar  service  by  increasing 
her  stowage.  A  boat  was  also  supplied  to  be  used 
as  a  tender,  built  as  large  as  the  space  on  deck  would 


Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  274. 


liHl 


ih:i;<'im:\  ^  V(»va(;i:. 


allow,  s('li(M)n('r-rii.'L'<'<l,  <l«'«l\('(l,  and  littrd  up  in  tlic 
mo;,t  lurnplclr  maiiiH'r.  ("I<>tli,  Itcads,  cutlery,  and 
various  othrr  articles  oltrairKswcrr  put  on  lioar(l,aii(l 
a  variety  of  antiscorlmtics  wi-re  added  to  the  usual 
allowance  of  provision.  Aware  that  he  must  tra. 
vrrse  a  larye  portion  of  the  ulohe  hitherto  litth'  e.\. 
plored,  and  that  a  considerahle  period  would  <  laps; 
hefore  his  presenc<'  was  recjuired  on  the  coast  ol 
America,  ('ai)tain  IJeechey  was  instructed  to  surv<'v 
the  [)arts  of  the  Pacific  within  his  reach,  of  which  it 
was  im|)ortant  t,)  navi<,'ators  that  a  more  correct  dc. 
IJFieation  should  he  laid  down.  These  ohservatioii^ 
wero  not,  however,  to  retard  his  ju'rival  at  the  aj). 
point<'d  rendezvous  later  than  the  lOth  of  July  IH'Jii; 
and  he  was  din-cted  to  remain  at  JJehrini,''.;  Strait 
to  the  end  of  October,  or  to  as  late  a  p<'riod  as  the 
season  would  admit,  without  incurring  the  risk  of 
spendinu  the  winter  there.  l)urin;j[  this  int<'rval  lii 
was  to  navi<j;at«'  from  Kotzehue's  Sound  northward, 
and  afterwards  to  continue  in  an  easterly  cour.S( 
aloHij  the  main  shore  as  far  as  the  ice  would  allou. 
Captain  lU'<'ch(»y's  survey  of  various  portions  of  the 
Pacific  does  not  fall  within  the  plan  of  this  work. 

On  the  t2d  of  June,  havin«r  left  the  Sandwich 
Isles,  he  shaped  his  course  for  Kamtschatka,  and  on 
the  27th  was  becalmed  within  six  miles  of  Petro- 
palauski.  The  best  guides  to  this  harbour  are  a 
rauf^e  of  hii,di  mountains,  on  one  of  which,  upwards 
of  11,000  feet  in  height,  a  volcano  is  in  constant 
action.  It  was  a  serene  and  beautiful  evening  when 
they  approached  this  remote  quarter  of  the  world, 
and  all  were  struck  with  the  magnificence  of  tlio 
mountains  capped  with  perennial  snow,  and  rising' 
in  solemn  grandeur  one  above  the  other.    xVt  inter- 


STII.r,   NKMIT   IN  TIIK   AUCTFC    HKrJIONS. 


i2a"j 


I  up  ill  (III 
itlrry,  and 
l)(i:inl,aiiil 
)  the  usual 
must  triu 
()  littlt'  cx- 
DuUl  riaps! 
he  coast  ol" 
(I  to  survry 
of  Nvliicli  it 
'  correct  ()<•- 
)l>s('rvatioii> 
I  at  tlic  aj). 
JulylH-Jti; 
'ini;'.;  Strait 
I'riod  as  the 
r  tlic  risk  (il 
i  interval  li« 
north  ward, 
crlv  coiu'Sf 
ould  allow, 
tions  of  tlif 
lis  work. 

Saiuhvicli 
itka,  and  on 
of  Petro- 
rbour  are  a 
li,  upwards 
in  constant 
ening  when 
f  tin;  world, 
ence  of  tli<' 
,  and  risin*: 
At  inter- 


v'ds  the  voIcaiKt  emitted  <lark  e(dumns  of  smok<'  ; 
and  from  a  spriiikliiii^'  of  Idaek  spots  upon  the  snow 
to  the  leeward  it  was  corijeetun-d  there  had  hern 
il  recent  eruplion.  From  l*etropalauski  C'apliiin 
Heechev  sailed  on  ihc  1st  of  Julv  for  Kot/(d»ue's 
Sound.  "  ^^'e  approaclied,"  says  he,  "  the  strait 
which  separates  the  two  i:reat  continents  of  Asia 
and  iVmeri<*a,  on  one  of  those  heautifui  still  ni^ditM 
well  known  to  all  who  have  visit<'d  the  arctic  re- 
gions, when  the  sky  is  without  a  (doud,  and  when 
the  midni^dit  sun,  scarcely  his  own  diameter  b(d(»u 
the  hori/oii,  tinijes  with  a  hriyht  hue  all  the  north- 
ern circle.  Our  ship,  propelled  hy  an  increasing' 
hreeze,  glided  raj)idly  aloii(f  a  smooth  sea,  startlin*,' 
from  her  path  llo(dvS  (d'  a(|uatic  hirds,  whose  lli^dit, 
ill  the  deep  silence  of  the  scene,  could  he  traced  by 
the  ear  to  a  ^reat  distance."  ila\  iiijf  (dosed  in  with 
the  American  shore  some  miles  northward  of  (.'ape 
Prince  of  Wales,  they  were  visited  hy  a  little  Kscjui- 
inaux  squadron  belonuinii  to  a  villat|e  situ  ted  on  a 
low  sandy  island.     The  natives  readily  sold  every 

•  •  • 

ihiiii;  they  possessed,  and  were  cheerful  and  <f()od- 
humoured,  thoui,di  exceed in^dy  noisy  and  energetic. 
Their  hows  were  more  slender  than  those  of  the 
islanders  to  the  southward,  hut  made  on  the  same 
principle,  with  drift-pine,  assisted  with  thon;js  of 
iiide  or  [)ieces  of  whahdione  j)lace{l  at  the  hai  k,  and 
neatly  hound  with  small  cord.  The  points  of  thcdr 
iirrows  were  of  bone,  Hint,  or  iron,  and  tlnir  spears 
headed  with  the  same  materials.  Their  dress  was 
similar  to  that  of  the  other  tribes  on  the  coast.  It 
consisted  of  a  shirt  wiiich  reach*  d  half-way  down 
the  thigh,  with  long  sleeves  and  a  hood  of  rein-deer 
4in,  and  edged  vv'itli  gray  or  wliite  fox  fur,     lie- 


286      LUDICROUS  APPEARANCE  OF  THE  NATIVES. 


sides  this  they  had  a  jacket  of  eider-drake  skins 
sewed  together,  wliicii,  when  engaged  i^^  war,  they 
wore  below  tlieir  uther  dress,  reckoning  it  a  toler- 
ably eificient  protection  against  an  arrow  or  a  spear 
thrust.  In  wet  weather  they  threw  over  the  fur 
dress  a  shirt  made  of  the  entrails  of  the  whale, 
which,  being  well  saturated  with  oil  and  grease,  was 
water  tight ;  and  they  also  used  breeches  of  deer's 
hide  P.nd  seal-skin  boots,  to  the  upp<'r  end  of  which 
were  fixed  strings  of  sea-horse  hide.  It  wes  their 
fashion  to  tie  one  of  these  strings  round  the  waist, 
and  attach  to  it  a  long  tuft  of  hair,  the  wing  of  a 
bird,  or  sometimes  a  fox's  tail,  which,  dangling  be- 
hind as  they  walked,  gave  them  a  ridiculous  ap- 
pearance, and  may  probably  have  occasioned  the 
report  of  the  Tschuktschi  recorded  in  JMuller  that 
the  people  of  this  country  have  tails  like  dogs.* 

On  the  22d  July,  the  ship  anchored  in  Kotzebue's 
Sound,  and  after  exploring  a  deep  inlet  on  its  nor. 
thern  shore,  whi'*h  they  named  Hotham  Inlet,  pro- 
ceeded  to  Chamisso  Island,  where  the  Blossom  was 
to  await  Captain  Franklin.     A  discretionary  power 
had,  however,  been  permitted  to  Captain  Beechey 
of  employing  the  period  of  his  stay  in  surveying  tli(^ 
coast,  provided  this  could  be  done  without  the  risk 
of  missing  Captahi  Franklin.     Having  accordingly 
directed  the  barge  to  keep  in-shore  on  the  look-out 
for  the  land-party,  he  sailed  to  the  northward,  and 
doubling  Cape  Krusenstern,  completed  an  examina- 
tion  of  the  coast  by  Cape  Thomson,  Point  Hope, 
Cape  Lisburn,  Cape  Beaufort,  and  Icy  Cape,  the 
farthest  point  reached  by  Captain  Cook.     As  there 


Beechey's  Voyage,  vol.  i.  p.  341. 


W 

a] 
w 

1)1 
M 

110 

i7 

K( 

be] 
a  h 

m 

ten 
larc 

I  mt 

'  iiev 
I  foot 
froii 
[coIo 
red 
secrr 

I'iK 

uhi 
verv 
wen 
the 
as  ii 
ree 
lific 
lad 
eiit 
lamt 
from 


NATIVES. 

Arake  skins 
'»  war,  they 
g  it  a  toler- 
'  or  a  spear- 
»ver  the  fur 
tlie  whale, 
I  grease,  was 
les  of  deer's 
!iid  of  which 
It  W8S  their 
id  the  waist, 
le  wing  of  a 
dangling  be- 
[diculous  ap- 
;casioned  the 
INIuUer  that 
ke  dogs.* 
in  Kotzebue's 
et  on  its  nor- 
m  Inlet,  pro- 
Blossom  was 
ionary  power 
;ain  Beechey, 
surveying  tln^ 
lout  the  risk 
g  accordingly 
the  look-out 
►rthward,  and 
an  examina- 
Point  Hope, 
ley  Cape,  the 
)k.     As  there 


AURORA  BOREALIS. 


287 


1. 


were  here  strong  indications  of  the  ice  closing  in, 
and  his  instructions  were  positive  to  keep  in  open 
water  if  possible,  he  determined  to  return  to  Kotze- 
bue's Sound,  whilst  he  despatched  the  barge  under 
Mr  EJson  and  IMr  Smytli  to  trace  the  coast  to  the 
north-eastward,  as  far  as  they  could  navigate. 

On  this  interesting  service  the  barge  set  out  on 
17th   August,    whilst   Beechey   returned   towards 
Kotzebue's  Sound.     On  the  night  of  the  25th  they 
beheld,  for  the  first  time  in  these  northern  latitudes, 
a  brilliant  display  of  the  Aurora  Borealis.     '^  It  first 
appeared,"  says  Captain  Beechey,  "  in  an  arch  ex- 
tending from  west  by  north  to  north-east ;  but  the 
arch  shortly  after  its  first  appearance  broke  up  and 
entirely  disaj)peared.     Soon  after  this,  however,  a 
new  display  began  in  the  direction  of  the  western 
foot  of  the  first  arch,  preceded  by  a  bright  flame 
from  which  emanated  coruscations  of  a  pale  straw 
colour.     An  almost  simultaneous  movement  occur- 
.ed  at  both  extremities  of  the  arch,  until  a  complete 
segment   was    formed  of  wavering  perpendicular 
radii.     As  soon  as  the  arch  w^as  complete,  the  light 
Itecame  greatly  increased,  and  the  prismatic  colours, 
\vhi(!li  had  before  been  faint,  now  shone  forth  in  a 
very  brilliant  manner.    The  strongest  colours,  which 
were  also  the  outside  ones,  were  pink  and  green,  on 
the  green  side  purple  and  pink,  all  of  which  were 
as  imperceptibly  blended  as  in  the  rainbow.     The 
:reen  was  the  colour  nearest  the  zenith.     This  mag- 
lificent  display  lasted  a  few  minutes  ;  and  the  light 
lad  nearly  vanished,  when  the  north-east  quarter 
eiit  forth  a  vigorous  display,  and  nearly  at  the 
aiiie  time  a  corresponding  coruscation  emanated 
rom  the  opposite  extremity.     The  western  foot  of 


5 


28H       ESQUI^IAUX  CHARACTER  AND  CUSTOMS. 

the  arcli  then  discTijra/Ted  itself  from  tlie  horizon, 
erooked  to  the  northward,  and  tlie  whole  retired  to 
tlie  north-east  quarter,  wlien^  a  bright  spot  hlazed 
for  a  moment,  and  all  was  darkness.  There  was 
no  noise  audible  during  any  part  of  our  observa- 
tions, nor  were  the  compasses  perceptibly  alfeeted.'" 
During  the  voyage  back  to  Chamisso  Island,  when 
they  arrived  on  27tli  iVugust,  they  had  repeated  in. 
terviews  with  the  Esquimaux,  whose  habits  and 
disposition  were  in  no  res])ect  different  from  those 
of  the  natives  already  described.  They  found  them 
uniformly  friendly,  scc'fi'ole,  devotedly  fj)nd  of  to- 
bacco, eager  to  engage  in  traflic,  and  upon  the  whole 
honest,  though  disposed  to  drive  a  hard  bargain. 
On  some  occasions  they  attempted  to  impose  upon 
their  customers,  by  skins  artfully  put  together  so 
as  to  represent  an  entire  fish;  but  it  was  difficult 
to  determine  whether  they  intended  a  serious  fraud 
or  only  a  piece  of  humour,  for  they  laughed  heartily 
when  detected,  and  appeared  to  consider  it  a  good 
joke.  Their  persons,  houses,  and  cookery,  were  all 
exceedingly  dirty,  and  their  mode  of  salutation  wa.*' 
by  a  mutual  contact  of  noses ;  sometimes  lickiiii: 
their  hands  and  stroking  first  their  own  faces,  and 
afterwards  those  of  the  strangers. t  The  rapiditv 
with  which  these  people  migrated  from  place  to 
place  was  remarkable.  On  one  occasion  the  motion>  | 
of  two  baidars  under  sail  were  watched  by  the  crev 
of  the  Blossom.  The  people  landed  at  a  spot  nc'ar| 
Choris  Peninsula,  drew  up  the  boats  on  the  beach, 
turning  them  bottom  upwards,  pitched  tents,  aiiiil 
in  an  incredibly  short  time  transferred  to  them  tlid 


Bi'ochey's  Voyage,  vol.  i.  p.  H'dJ.  -f  Ibid.  pj).  345,  'M\ 


OMS. 


elson's  kxpkdition. 


21)}) 


le  liorizoii. 
e  retired  to 
spot  Mazed 
There  was 
ir  observa- 
^  affeeted."^ 
land,  when 
repeated  in- 
habits and 
t  from  thos( 
'  found  them 
'  fond  of  to 
on  the  whoU 
ard  bargain, 
impose  upon 
t  together  so 
was  difficult 
I  serious  fraud 
ghed  heartily 
der  it  a  good 
tery,  were  all 
alutation  wa^ 
inies  lickiiii: 
ni  faces,  and 
The  rapidity 
rom  place  tu 
>n  the  motioii> 
l1  by  the  crev 
.t  a  spot  near 
on  the  beacli 
d  tents,  ant 
\  to  them  lilt 


whole  contents  of  their  little  vessels.  On  visiting 
the  encampment  an  hour  after,  every  thing  wax 
found  in  as  complete  order  as  if  they  had  been  do- 
miciliated on  the  spot  for  months  ;  and  the  surprise 
of  the  sailors  was  raised  to  the  highest  by  the  va- 
riety of  articles  which,  in  almost  endless  succession, 
they  produced  from  their  little  boats.  "  PVom  the 
two  baidars  they  landed  fourteen  persons,  eight  tent- 
poles,  forty  deer-skins,  two  kayaks,  many  hundred- 
weight of  fish,  numerous  skins  of  oil,  earthen  jars 
for  cooking,  two  living  foxes,  ten  large  dogs,  bundles 
of  lane:>s,  harpoons,  bows  and  arrows,  a  quantity  of 
whalebone,  skins  full  of  clothing,  some  immense  nets 
made  of  hide  for  taking  small  whales  and  porpoises, 
eight  broad  planks^  masts,  sails,  paddles,  &c.,  he- 
sides  sea-horse  hides  and  teeth,  and  a  varietv  of 
nameless  articles  always  to  be  found  among  the 
Esquimaux."'' 

In  the  mean  time,  ]Mr  Elson  in  the  barge  proceed- 
ed along  the  shore  for  seventy  miles,  as  far  as  a  pro- 
inontory,  denominated  by  Beechey  Cape  Barrow, 
which  was  afterwards  discovered  to  be  only  distant 
146  miles  from  the  extreme  point  of  Franklin's  dis- 
coveries. Upon  this  new  line  of  coast  posts  werr 
erected  at  various  distances,  with  directions  for 
Captain  Franklin,  should  he  succeed  in  pushing  so 
far  to  the  westward.  A  frequent  communication 
was  opened  with  the  inhabitants,  who  were  found  to 
resemble  the  other  Esquimaux,  with  the  unpleasant 
ifference  that  their  manners  were  more  rude  and 
isterous,  and  their  conduct  in  some  instances  decid- 
ly  hostile.     Point  Barrow,  the  most  northerly 


ill.  p]).  'i-1''?  '''"^ 


•  Beechey's  Voya<^e,  vol.  i.  p.  405. 


BB 


21)0 


ELSON  S  DISCOVERIES. 


part  of  America  yet  discovered,  formed  tlie  termi. 
nation  to  a  spit  of  land  jutting  out  several  miles 
from  the  more  regular  coast-line.  The  width  of  thf 
neck  did  not  exceed  a  mile  and  a  half;  on  the  ex- 
tremity were  several  small  lakes,  and  on  its  eastern 
side  a  village.  The  danger  of  being  shut  in  by  the 
ice  was  now  great,  and  I\Ir  Elson  determined  to 
land,  obtain  the  necessary  observations,  erect  a  post, 
and  deposite  instructions  for  Franklin.  This  plan, 
however,  was  frustrated  by  the  violent  conduct  of 
the  natives,  who  assembled  in  formidable  numbers, 
and  threatened  to  attack  the  crew  of  the  barge, 
which  consisted  only  of  eight  men.  It  was  there- 
fore judged  prudent  to  proceed  as  speedily  as  possi- 
ble to  the  rendezvous  at  Chamisso  Island,  which 
they  reached  on  the  Oth  of  September,  not  without 
considerable  difficulty,  having  been  obliged  to  trade 
the  barge  round  Cape  Smyth,  through  a  sea  thick- 
ly  beset  with  ice,  that  threatened  every  moment  to 
close  with  its  impenetrable  walls  and  cut  off  their 
return.  The  result  of  Captain  Beechey's  voyagf 
and  of  the  expedition  undertaken  under  his  orders 
by  Mr  Elson  and  Mr  Smyth,  was  the  addition  ot 
a  new  and  extensive  line  of  coast  to  the  geograpliv 
of  the  polar  regions.  The  actual  distance  between 
the  extreme  points  reached  by  Captain  Franklin 
and  Mr  Elson  being  so  small,  there  is  every  rea- 
son to  believe  that  the  navigation  of  this  remain- 
ing  portion  will  not  be  attended  with  any  very  for- 
midable  or  insurmountable  obstacles. 

In  the  following  year  Beechey,  in  obedience  to 
his  instructions,  returned  to  Kotzebue's  Sound,  and 
recommenced  his  examination  of  the  coast  in  tlu 
hope  of  extending  his  survey  beyond  Cape  Barrow 


'iif  ■'i: 


RETURN  OP  BEKCHEY. 


291 


the  tormi- 
,'eral  miles 
/idth  of  the 
on  tlie  ex- 
its eastern 
It  in  by  the 
erminecl  to 
Teet  a  post, 
This  plan, 
eonduet  ot 
le  numbers, 
the  barge. 
;  was  there- 
[ily  as  possi- 
land,  which 
not  without 
iged  to  track 
I  a  sea  thick- 
iT  moment  to 
ut  off  their 
ey's  voyage, 
er  his  orders 
addition  ot 
e  geography 
[lee  between 
in  Franklin 
s  every  rea- 
his  remain. 
11  y  very  for- 

obedience  to 
Sound,  and 
I  coast  in  the 
ape  BarroNv 


■d 


aiid  either  joining  Franklin  or  collecting  some  cer- 
tain intelligence  regarding  his  enterj)rise.  In  both 
objects  he  had  the  mortification  to  fail:  lie  found 
the  posts  erected  the  preceding  year  and  the  buried 
bottles  remaining  untouched,  and  the  state  of  the 
\v<'ather  rendered  it  necessary  to  put  about  be- 
fore reaching  Icy  Cape.  It  had  been  previously 
arranged,  that  the  signal  to  be  used  by  Franklin,  if 
he  arrived  on  an  unknown  coast  during  the  night, 
should  be  a  beacon  kindled  on  the  cliffs;  and,  on 
passing  Cape  Krusenstern  after  dark,  their  attention 
was  arrested  by  a  large  fire  blazing  on  an  eminence. 
Every  eye  on  board  was  fixed  on  the  welcome  light, 
and  every  bosom  beat  with  the  delightful  expec- 
tation of  soon  seeing  their  friends.  The  ship  was 
brought  to,  and  hope  almost  passed  im  >  certainty, 
as  a  boat  was  seen  pulling  from  the  shore.  On  ex- 
amining her  through  the  telescope  by  the  light  of 
tile  Aurora  Borealis,  some  sanguine  spirits  declared 
they  could  discern  that  she  was  propelled  by  oars 
instead  of  paddles,  and  it  needed  only  a  slight  ad- 
ditional exertion  of  the  fancy  to  be  assured  that  the 
dress  of  the  crew  was  European.  In  the  midst 
of  these  excited  and  enthusiastic  feelings,  the  harsh 
and  boisterous  voices  of  the  natives  suddenly  broke 
on  their  ear,  and  the  pleasing  picture  which  their 
imagination  had  been  so  busy  in  constructing  faded 
away  in  a  moment,  leaving  nothing  before  them 
but  two  sorry  Esquimaux  baidars  and  their  unlovely 
occupants. 

From  this  point  Captain  Beechey's  voyage  pre- 
><'i;led  few  features  of  new  or  striking  interest.  In 
Hehring's  Strait  they  were  visited  by  a  splendid 
exhibition  of  the  Aurora  Borealis,  and  under  its 


292 


ARRIVAL  IN  ENGLAND. 


coruscations  of  pink,  purple,  and  green  rays,  which 
shot  up  to  the  zenitli  in  the  shape  of  a  gigantic 
cone,  they  ancliored  off  Chamisso  Island.  After 
tile  discovery  of  two  capacious  iiarbours,  which  they 
named  Port  Clarence  and  Grantley  Harbour,  thev 
took  their  final  departure  from  the  Polar  Sea  on 
the  (Hh  October  1827.  On  the  2J)th,  a  flight  ol 
large  white  pelicans  apprized  them  of  their  approach 
to  the  coast  of  California ;  and  after  touching  at 
Monterey  and  San  Bias,  they  arrived  at  Valparaiso 
on  tlie  29th  April  1828.  On  the  30th  June,  tlu  y 
passed  the  meridian  of  Cape  Horn  in  a  gloomy 
snow-storm,  and  made  Rio  on  the  21st  July.  Their 
voyage  from  Rio  to  England  was  completed  in  forty- 
nine  daj'^s,  and  they  arrived  at  Spithead  on  the  12th 
October  1828.  He  found  tliat  the  expedition  ot 
Franklin  had  preceded  him  in  his  return  by  mor( 
than  a  year,  liaving  reached  Liverpool  on  the  2(Jth 
September  1827;  its  transactions  occupied  two  ye?.r> 
and  nearly  eight  months,  whilst  Beechey  had  been 
absent  on  his  voyage  three  years  and  a  half. 


THE 


NATURAL   HISTORY 


OF  THE 


NORTHERN   REGIONS  OF   AMERICA. 


CHAPTER  V. 


Introductory  Observatmus. 

Amelioration  in  tiio  Character  of  European  Intorcourse  with  uncivil- 
ized Nations — The  Ahsence  of  Sand}-  Deserts,  a  j^rand  Feature 
in  the  Physical  Attributes  of  America — Genera!  boundaries  of 
the  Districts  afterwards  treated  of  in  Detail — Early  Sources  of 
Information  regtirding'  the  Natural  History  of  North  America — 
General  View  of  the  Fur-countries— Passatjes  across  the  Rocky 
Mountains — Plains  and  Valleys  along  the  Pacific  Shore. 

The  preceding  historical  narrative  will  have  rendered 
our  readers  famiUar  with  the  progress  of  navigation  and 
discovery  along  the  shores  of  North  America  ;  while  the 
sketches  which  have  been  presented  of  the  journeys  of 
Ilearne  and  JMackenzie,  as  well  as  of  the  more  recent 
expeditions  of  Franklin  and  Richardson,  will  have  exhi- 
bited an  accurate  antl  interesting  picture  of  whatever  is 
most  worthy  of  record  in  the  history  and  habits  of  the 
more  central  tribes.  The  unextinguishable  boldness  and 
persevering  bravery  of  the  human  race  are  strikingly 
manifested  by  these  achievements  in  maritime  and  inland 
adventure;  and  while  we  are  too  often  shocked  by  the 
recital  of  deeds  of  violence  and  bloodshed, — by  unprovoked 
and  unpardonable  aggression  on  the  part  of  the  invaders, 
and  by  unsparing  revenge,  in  retaliation,  by  the  darker 
savage, — we  cannot  but  admire  the  energy  and  reckless 
daring  exhibited  on  either  side,  though  we  may  too  often 


'20  \- 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


regret  the  want  of  a  gentler  and  more  Innnanizlng  spirit 
In  regard,  however,  to  tlie  later  expeditions,  especially 
those  from  the  Hritish  shores,  the  |)hilanthropist  and  phi. 
los()i)her  must  have  heen  alike  delighted  hy  the  ameliora- 
tion which  has  taken  place  in  our  mode  of  intercourse 
with  the  "  ])ainte(l  inen,"  who  are  no  longer  massacred  as 
tile  he.'ists  that  |)erish,  hut,  even  when  souglit  after  origi- 
nally from  motives  not  entirely  disinterested,  are  yet  re 
garded  as  heings  in  whom  the  great  Creator  lias  implanted 
the  germ  of  an  immortal  life.  Jiut  i)y  what  a  catalogue 
of  crimes  was  the  name  of  Christian  first  made  known  t(i 
many  nations  of  the  Western  AN'orld  ;  and  hy  what  crut! 
tyranny  and  the  sword  of  an  exterminating  war^  were  not 
the  insidious  j)retences  of  peace  so  often  followed  up  hy 
the  civilized  nations  of  Europe !  The  cross  was  indeed 
hut  a  vain  and  hollow  symhol  in  the  hands  of  those  ])loo(l- 
st<iined  and  avaricious  men,  who  sought  to  plant  upon  a 
false  foundation  that  glorious  haniier  to  which  Ciod  alom 
giveth  the  increase.  The  last  entry  in  the  following 
sumptuous  enumeration  was  jjrohably  omitted  in  tlu 
hooks  of  those  j)rGud  traders : — "  The  merchandise  of 
gold,  and  silver,  and  precious  stones,  and  of  pearls,  and 
tine  linen,  and  purple,  and  silk,  and  scarlet,  and  all  thy- 
ine  wood,  and  all  manner  vessels  of  ivory,  antl  all  manner 
vessels  of  most  precious  wood,  and  of  brass,  and  iron,  ami 
marhle,  and  cinnamon,  and  odours,  and  ointments,  ami 
frankincense,  and  wine,  and  oil,  and  fine  flour,  and  wheat 
and  beasts,  and  sheep,  and  horses_,  and  chariots^  and  slaves 
and — sod/ii  of  men."* 

^,Ve  have  now  to  describe  the  characteristic  features  c1 
tlie  Natural  History  of  the  Northern  Parts  of  America,  a 
task  rendered  comparatively  easy,  in  many  important  i)ar. 
ticulars,  by  the  labours  of  those  intrepid  men,  the  recital 
of  whose  adventurous  expeditions  by  land  and  sea  hh 
already  engaged  the  attention  of  the  reader.  Indeed  we 
know  of  no  better  or  more  conclusive  argument  against 
those  who  venture  to  doubt  the  propriety  of  scientific  ex- 
ploration, on  account  of  the  uncertain  fulfilment  of  sonu 
of  our  most  sanguine  expectations,  than  the  great  advance- 
ment  which  has  recently  been  effected  in  our  natural  know- 
ledge of  far  countries.  It  is  true  that  the  north-west  i)as. 
sage  has  not  yet  been  achieved,  and  it  may  be  true  that  i; 

•  *  Uovelations,  xviii.  12,  Vi. 


INTHODICTOIIY  OBSKRVATIONS. 


'29.5 


lizing  spirit 
s,  especially 
)ist  and  phi- 
he  aineliora- 
intercourse 
massacred  as 
t  after  origi- 
,  are  yet  re- 
las  implanted 
it  a  catalojiiu- 
ide  known  U< 
)y  wliat  eriU'l 
war,  were  not 
lowed  up  hy 
;s  was  indeul 
*  those  hlood- 
plant  upon  a 
ich  Ciod  alom 
the  following: 
litted   in   tlu 
erchandise  of 
of  pearls,  and 
;,  and  all  thy. 
nd  all  manner 
and  iron,  and 
ntments,  ami 
r,  and  wheat, 
ts,  and  slaves 


iievtv  will  he  achieved,  consistently  with  the  strictly  utih- 
tarian  views  of  merely  commercial  enteri)rise ;  hut  even 
;iltliou<i;h  we  should  never  have  it  in  our  power  to  suhsti- 
tute  had  muskets  for  the  arrows  and  harpoons  of  the  skin- 
clad  Ksijuimaux,  and  should  he  forever  doomed  to  a  con- 
tinuance of  our  present  lengthened  navigation  to  the  east- 
ern shores  of  Asia, — still  it  is  someth.ing  to  say  that  we 
have  almost  completed  our  geojjjraphic  '  knowledjjje  of  the 
circumference  of  the  northern  parallels  of  the  earth  ;  and 
that  if  the  merchant  cannot  exchange  his  commodities  hy 
a  more  rapid  route,  a-  stock  of  intellectual  food,  and  a 
rich  lihrary  hoth  of  useful  and  entertaining  knowledge, 
has  heen  already  provided,  and  will  <louhtless  increase  tor 
the  henetit  of  future  generations.  It  is  to  the  two  expe- 
ditions under  Sir  ,Tohn  Franklin  that  we  owe  the  hetter 
part  of  our  information  regarding  the  natural  history  of 
the  interior  districts  of  the  fur-countries  of  North  Ame- 
rica ;  and  although  the  collecting  of  specimens  did  cer- 
tainly form  hut  a  secondary  ohject  in  comparison  with 
those  great  geographical  jjrohlems,  the  solution  of  which 
was  looked  forward  to  as  the  {)rincipal  and  more  important 
result,  yet  it  is  gratifying  to  know  that  in  the  performance 
of  higher  duties  of  difiicult  and  dangerous  achievement, 
these  resolute  men  neglected  nothing  which  could  in  any 
way  conduce  to  the  completion  of  our  knowledge  of  the 
countries  they  explored. 

liefore  entering  into  any  zoological  details,  we  shall  de- 
vote a  hrief  space  to  the  consideration  of  one  of  the  most 
peculiar  and  influential  features  in  the  physical  character 
of  the  New  Workl,  viz.  the  ahsence  of  aandij  deserts.  It 
has  been  well  observed  that  the  physical  conformation  of 
North  America  precludes  the  possibility  of  those  arid 
wastes.  They  result  from  a  want  of  moisture,  and  attach 
to  such  extended  plains,  in  the  more  immediate  vicinity  of 
the  tropics,  as  are  too  vast  and  (hsproportioned  in  relation 
to  the  quantity  of  rain  which  nature  has  assignetl  them  ; 
tor  tliere — ■ 

"  No  doiul  of  morning  dew 

Doth  travel  tliroupli  the  wiiste  air's  pathless  blue, 

To  nourish  those  far  deserts." 

They  drink  and  are  for  ever  dry  ;  for  the  castellated  glo- 
ries of  cloud-land  tloat  over  them  in  vain  ;  and  even  when 
rent  by  thunderbolts,  or  illuminated  by  the  blinding  glare 
of  the  red  lightning,  they  never  hear  the  refreshing  music 


'29(i 


NATIIIAL  mSTOUV. 


of  the  voice  "  of  many  waters."  (ieopjraphical  observa- 
tion points  out  that  wlieiiever  a  continent  or  country  is 
expande  1  for  more  than  a  few  hundred  miles  beneatli  an 
equatorial  sky,  with  a  surface  comparatively  low  and  Hat, 
it  will  become  a  desert.  This  is  nothing  more  than  tin 
natural  result  of  its  inability  to  be  supplied  with  moisture. 
A  j^reat  j)roi)ortion  of  Africa,  the  central  regions  of  Asia, 
Arabia,  and  even  those  parts  of  Indostan  where  moun. 
tains  do  not  prevail,  have  become  steril  and  deserted.  V'ast 
chasms  are  thus  created  in  which  neither  animal  nor  vege- 
table life  can  flourish. 

New  Holland  probably  owes  its  moisture  to  its  insular 
situation  ;  and  the  peninsular  form  is  no  doubt  highly 
advantageous  in  that  respect  to  the  regions  of  Spain,  Italy, 
(ireece,  and  Asia  Minor,  while  the  mountain-ridges  of  In. 
•lostan  render  it  essential  service.  It  is  chiefly  owing  either 
to  the  vicinage  of  the  sea,  or  of  some  Alpine  tract  of  terri- 
tory,  that  those  ])arts  of  Asia  and  Africa  which  the  great 
•leserts  do  not  reach,  have  become  the  flt  abodes  of  the 
human  race.  Over  a  great  extent  of  Central  Africa,  and 
some  parts  of  Asia,  along  the  coasts  of  the  Red  Sea  and 
of  the  Intlian  Ocean,  there  does  not  seem  to  exist  a  suffi- 
ciency of  mountain-ranges  to  collect  from  the  atmosphere 
such  stores  of  moisture  as  are  necessary  to  fertilize  those 
thirsty  plains,  and  clothe  their  arid  wastes  with  verdure. 
No  commanding  Cordilleras  overlook  those  burning  de- 
serts,— no  u])land  vales,  nor  cool  and  cloud-capped  sum- 
mits, each  with  its  huge  recess, 

"  That  k^eps  till  .Iiine  Doccnibor's  snow," 

serve  as  the  perennial  fountains  of  refreshing  water. 

Let  us  briefly  consider  a  few  of  the  leading  physical 
characters  of  America,  with  a  view  to  ascertain  the  cause 
of  its  exemption  from  desert  regions.*  Within  and  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  tro})ic.  North  America  is  composetl  of  what 
may,  comparatively,  be  regarded  as  a  narrow  slip.  It 
enjoys  all  the  advantages  of  an  insular  position,  and  is  re- 
freshed on  either  side  by  the  vapours  of  the  translucent 
sea.  Besides,  the  Cordilleras  traverse  the  whole  space, 
rising  upon  the  INIexican  table-land  to  an  elevation  of 

*  See  a  .short  paper  entitled  "  The  United  States  are  exempt 
fmni  Desert.s,  and  all  the  Kvil.s  eon.sequent  thereon,"  pnhli.slied  iii 
Mr  Featherstonliaiiyirs  Monthly  American  Journal  of  Geolog-y  and 
Natural  Science.     Philadelphiaj  August  USUI. 


INTIIODK  T(»HV  OUSl.llVA TKlNS. 


2f)7 


cal  obscrva- 
r  country  is 
i  bent'sith  an 
ow  and  Hal, 
)re  tlian  thu 
th  moisture, 
ons  of  Asia, 
here  nioun- 
isertcd.  V'ast 
[lal  nor  vege- 

to  its  insular 
loubt  hiu;hl\ 
Spain,  Italy, 
.ridges  of  In- 

owing  either 
tract  of  terri- 
lich  the  great 
bodes  of  the 
d  Africa,  and 
Red  Sea  and 

exist  a  sutfi- 
e  atmosphere 
"ertilize  those 
with  verdure. 

burning  de- 

capped  sum- 


^  water. 

ing  physical 
ain  the  cause 
lin  and  in  the 
)osed  of  what 
row  shp.  h 
on,  and  is  re- 
translucent 

whole  space, 
elevation  ot 


n 


tes  are  oxenipt 
1,"  pul)lislie(l  Hi 
of  Geolo^^y  ami 


1 1,000  feet.     All  the  winds  of  heaven,  and  espi'cially  the 
deeply-saturated   trades,  pour  fortli    their   never-ceasing 
va])()urs   on    this   well-<Hsposi'(i    region,   and    clothe   its 
lengthened  sh)pes  and  undulating  i)lains  with  all  the  rich 
luxuriance  of  a  life-sustaining  vegetation.    "  'I'hese  friend- 
ly mountains,  after  uplieaving  the  tropical  parts  of  our 
continent  to  the  regions  of  eternal   verdure,  bear  aloft 
their  wide-spread  arms  (the  C'hipewyan  and  Alleghany 
ranges)  as  far  as  it  is  necessary  to  counteract  tlie  heats 
of  a  southern  sun,  and  imj)art  fertility  to  the  great  valley 
of  theMis.sissippi,  which  seems  especially  confined  to  their 
fostering  care.      Ihit  when  elevations  become  no  longer 
essential  to  the  certainty  of  moisture  and  vegetation,  tiiey 
sink  into  the  great  plains  of  Canada,  and  disappear.     How 
wise  is  this  arrangement !    For,  if  these  mountains  had 
carried  their  characteristic  elevation  far  north,  they  would 
have  chilled,  with  their  eternal  snows,  all  the  northern 
portion  of  our  country,  and  rendered  it  barren, — not  from 
drought  and  deserts,  but,  what  is  equally  to  be  deprecated, 
the  blights  of  intolerable  cold.     These  friendly  ranges  of 
mountains  are  thus  the  everlasting  guarantee  of  our  coun- 
try's fertility.     The  Alleghany  range  derives  its  moisture 
from  the  Atlantic,  and  waters  not  onlv  all  the  states  that 
intervene  between  it  and  that  ocean,  but  the  states  and 
districts  that  rest  upon  its  western  base,  and  contributes 
its  full  part  to  the  great  plains  of  Mississippi  and  Missouri. 
The  llocky,  or  Chepewyan  range,  draws  heavily  from 
the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  abundantly  waters,  not  only  that 
slope,  but  the  extended  j)lains  which  meet  its  eastern  base. 
The  narrow  slopes  of  the  two  ranges  of  mountains  which 
border  the  two  oceans,  are  easily  and  very  naturally  ir- 
rigated from  those  oceans ;  and  their  slopes,  pointing  in- 
wards from  the  oceans  and  the  plains  immediately   in 
contact  with  them,  draw  moisture  from  the  numerous 
founts  and  reservoirs  of  the  mountains  themselves.     The 
^eat  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  however,  is  too  extensive, 
and  too  important  to  the  rising  generation  of  this  coun- 
try, to  be  left  to  any  uncertain  supply  of  moisture.     The 
.sources  of  the  mountains  with  which  it  is  enfiladed  might 
prove  to  be  inadecjuate,  and  certainly  would,  if  all  de- 
pended on  them.     Other  guarantees  are  found,  and  pow- 
erful aids  provided  in  the  case.     That  great  valley  opens 
itself  without  barrier,  on  the  southern  end,  to  the  trade- 
winds,  which  become  deflected  by  the  ^Mexican  coast, 


'49H 


NATl  IIAL  HISTOIIY. 


ciitcr  it  fr.iiiglu  with  all  the  moisture  of  the  pilf,  and 
<le|U)site  on  this  rejzioii  a  supply  literally  inexhaustible. 
Ik-'cause  those  winds  themselves  are  perpetual."* 

Hut  even  should  the  vast  masses  of  vapour  which  gather 
over  these  majestic  mountains,  and  are  carried  thither  l)\ 
tile  trade-wincis,  he  insufficient  to  supply  with  moisture  tli, 
almost  boundless  plains  of  the  Western  World,  I'rovideiut. 
has  there  collected  the  mij^htiest  reservoirs  of  fresh  water 
which  exist  on  the  surface  of  the  known  earth.  The  vast 
lakes  of  Canada,  over  which  the  winds  are  peri)etually 
.sweej)in!j:,  and  from  which  arise  innumerable  clouds  o' 
vapour,  insure  a  P'jver-failinjj;  sup[)lyof  water  to  the  con- 
tiguous portions  of  the  ])lain.  Thus^  table-lands  and 
rocky  mountains,  a  circumand)ient  ocean,  and  the  most 
mapiificent  internal  reservoirs,  all  co-operate  to  insure 
esj)e(ially  to  the  territory  of  the  United  States,  aperi)etu;il 
supply  of  moisture.  The  natural  fertility  of  the  soil  i^ 
therefore  great,  and  yields  abundantly  and  with  certaint\ 
to  the  wants  of  man.  This  humidity  is  moreover  well- 
tempered,  and  is  rarely  ])()ured  forth  in  superabundant 
In  some  northern  European  countries,  and  even  in  (irciit 
Britain  and  Ireland,  our  own  familiar  homes,  the  crojb 
more  frequently  fail  from  excess  than  deficiency  of  mois- 
ture.  In  the  former  case,  the  grain  is  either  hlightci' 
in  the  field,  or  it  moulds  and  rots  in  the  granary,  or  ae. 
(}uires  a  musty  smell  and  flavour  which  render  it  unti: 
for  the  })roduction  of  the  finer  breads. 

Wherever  deserts  prevail  to  a  great  extent,  they  not  onl\ 
prevent  vegetation,  and,  consetjuently,  preclude  the  \)0h. 
sibility  of  a  numerous  population,  but  they  also  exercis; 
a  prejudicial  influence  over  all  the  habitable  neiglibuiir- 
ing  regions.  They  draw  from  them  their  moisture,  and 
tlius  render  their  vegetation  precarious.  The  heats  tha. 
steam  from  deserts  enfeeble  the  vegetable  life  of  the  ad- 
joining districts,  and  the  sirocco-winds,  collecting  delete- 
rious matters  from  their  fevered  surtctce,  carry  languor 
disease,  and  death,  in  their  course,  and  convert  the  ver- 
dant freshness  of  nature  into  an  arid  wilderness.  ^^1uI 
tlie  seasons  and  the  climate  of  a  country  are  uncertaii: 
when  no  human  effort  can  control  them,  and  no  ar: 
or  foresight  render  the  results  of  labour  available,  tht 
human  creatiu*e  himself  partakes  of  the  wildness  and  ir- 


Ibid. 


INTFlOnrCTORY  OnsKRVATlONS. 


^^99 


\c  pulf,  lUwl 
R'xhaustil)lt', 

which  }i;iithn 
L>(1  thitlu-r  l)\ 
moisture  tin 
I,  ProvidciKi 
if  fresh  watti 
h.     The  vaM 
e  j)erpetually 
h\c  clouds  u' 
;r  to  the  coti- 
)le-hin(ls  aii'l 
ind  the  most 
ate  to  insure 
?s,  aperjjetuii! 
of  the  soil  i- 
with  certaint} 
loreover  wtll- 
[lerahundaiu'c. 
even  in  (irwit 
nes,  the  crop!- 
lency  of  niuis- 
ither  hlighto! 
;ranary,  or  ac 
L'uder  it  unti' 

,  tliey  not  onl\ 
■kule  the  \)0h. 
'  also  exercisv 
le  neighbour- 
moisture,  am! 
'he  heats  tha 
ife  of  the  ail- 
ecting  tlelete- 
carry  languor 
nvert  the  ver- 
rness.     AVbt-'i. 
are  uncertain  . 
,  and  no  art 
available,  tlv. 
Idness  and  ir- 


rctodarity  of  outward  nature,  and  is  eitiier  a  victim  of  tlie 
wrathfid  elements,  or  a  Herce  and  relentless  devastator  in 
his  turn.  Kveii  the  very  form  of  man,  in  connexion  witli 
ilcserts,  is  deprived  of  nmch  of  its  natural  syn)metry  ;  it 
is  thin,  dry,  emaciated,  and  of  a  black  or  swarthy  hut. 
lie  seems  there  farmed,  as  it  were,  to  drift  with  the  sands, 
to  move  his  lind)er  ..'id  elastic  frame  with  all  the  (juick- 
iifss  that  uncertainty  may  retjuire  ;  but  he  jjossessis  not 
the  nmscular  powers  re(juisite  to  contiinu)us  and  elective 
labour.  "  In  such  countries  population  is  sparse,  and  the 
few  who  draw  a  scanty  support  from  the  stinte<l  and  un- 
certain vegetation  are  unfixed  in  their  habits,  and  wan- 
derers. They  realize  nothing — improve  not  tlitir  condi- 
tion— are  .actuated  by  the  sudden  impulses  of  waiit,  or  tlu- 
emergency  occasioned  by  the  irregularities  of  tlieelement.< 
around  them.  If  industry  exists  not,  and  human  labour 
Ik'  unavailable,  none  of  those  improvements  which  change 
tile  condition  of  our  race,  and  give  to  us  character  aiul 
comfort,  have  any  existence.  Without  surplus  produc- 
tion there  can  be  no  connnercial  exchanges ;  a  limit  is 
thus  placed  to  social  improvement,  and  a  barrier  erected 
against  civilisation.  Man,  under  such  a  state  of  things, 
cannot  nmlti})ly  his  race,  because  his  supply  of  food  is 
limited, — nor  create  wealth,  because  his  labour  is  unj)ro- 
iluctive  and  without  stinudus, — nor  make  valuable  im- 
provements in  the  arts,  comforts, and  intercourse  of  society, 
kcause  he  has  neither  the  means  nor  the  necessary  num- 
bers,— nor  can  he  polish  and  refine  himself,  because  his  state 
of  society  is  essentially  wild  and  violent."*  In  America  the 
natural  condition  and  consequent  tendency  of  all  things  Ls 
uidely  different,  for  the  human  race  is  there  exempted  from 
deserts  and  their  concomitant  evils.  I  ience  a  mighty  power 
of  fertility  is  sluml/ering  even  among  the  most  un[)eopled 
wastes  ;  and  nothing  is  wanting  but  the  skill  and  persever- 
;)nce  of  man  to  make  the  "  desert  blossom  as  the  rose." 

"  Pure  elcnuMit  of  waters  !  wheresoo'er 

Thou  (lost  forsake  thv  subterranean  haunts, 

(ireen  herbs,  brii!;]!!  flowers,  and  berry-bearing  plants, 

Rise  into  life,  and  m  thy  train  appear; 

And,  throug-h  the  sunny  portion  of  the  year, 
Swift  insects  shine,  tliy  hovering  pursuivants. 
But,  if  tliy  bounty  fail,  the  forest  pant*^-. 

And  hart,  and  hind,  and  liunter  vvitli  his  spear, 
Langiush  and  droop  togetlier." 

Up  .  I      I  M 

*  Featherstouhaugh's  Monthly  Americun  Jourual,  vol.  i.  p.  liU. 


300 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


The  portion  of  North  America  witli  the  natural  his- 
tory of  which  we  are  now  ahout  to  he  engaged,  is  exclusive 
of  the  southern  parts  of  the  Canadas,  and  of  the  whole 
of  the  United  States.  But  it  comprehends  the  entire  of 
those  vast  territories  which  lie  to  the  northward  of  the 
tHth  parallel,  from  the  northern  shore  of  Lake  Superior 
to  Melville  Island,  in  relation  to  latitude ;  and  from  New- 
foundland and  the  eastern  cape  of  I^ahrador  to  the  Pe- 
ninsula of  Alaska,  the  western  termination  of  the  I{us- 
sian  dominions  in  America,  in  regard  to  longitude.*  These 
districts  are  very  generally  known  under  the  name  of  the 
American  fnr-couti tries,  and  it  is  intleed  to  the  <'mploj/i's 
of  the  Hudson's  Eay  Company  and  other  commercial 
travellers  that  we  are  largely  indehted  for  information  re- 
garding the  zoological  i)roductions  of  several  extensive 
tracts.  For  example ;  the  earliest  collections  of  the  birds 
of  Hudson's  Bay  were  formed  about  90  years  ago  by  Mr 
A.lexander  Light,  who  was  sent  out  by  the  Company  in 
consequence  of  his  knowledge  of  natural  history.  It  has 
been  also  recorded  that  IVIr  Isham,  for  a  long  time  a  resi- 
dent  governor  of  various  forts  in  the  fur-countries,  oc- 
cupied his  leisure  in  preparing  the  skins  of  beasts,  birds, 
and  fishes.  These  two  gentlemen,  we  are  informed  by 
Dr  Richardson,  returned  to  England  about  the  year  ITi.i 
and,  fortunately  for  the  advancement  of  science,  intruste(* 
their  specimens  to  i\Ir  George  Edwards,  the  ingenious 
author  of  the  "  Natural  History  of  Birds,  and  other  ran 
undescribed  Animals," — a  publication  which   has  been 

*  In  speak'ng  of  the  boundaries  of  tlie  almost  boundless  territd- 
lies  of  the  Russian  dominion,  we  feel  inclined  to  qualifN'the  expres- 
sion b}'  the  words  used  in  the  spirited  inscription  eng'raved  on  tho 
piece  of  plate  presented  to  Colonel  Behm.  That  gentleman  wa^ 
commandant  of  the  province  of  Kamtschatka  in  the  time  o'.'  Captain 
C(X)k,  and  had  entertained  the  great  navigator  and  his  crews  in  a 
humane  and  generous  spirit.  The  inscription,  of  which  the  c()ni|K^- 
sition  is  graceful,  runs  as  follows  : — 

Vilio  KGUEGio  MAGXO  DE  Beiim;  qui  Imperatricis  Aii^ni"- 
tissinia?  Catherinai  auspiciis,  summrujue  animi  benignitate,  sa'va,  ijiii- 
bus  prjeerat,  KamtschatkjE  li  tora,  navibus  nautis([ue  BritaiinicL' 
hospita  nraebuit ;  eoscjuein  terminis,  .v/'  (/ui  essciil  Imperio  Hiissio. 
frustra  explorandis,  mala  multa  perpessos  iterata  vice  excepit.  n- 
fecit,  recreavit,  et  commeatu  omni  cumulate  auctos  dimisit ;  Ht;i 
XAVAi.is  BniTANNlc.i:  SEVTEMVMUi  in  aliquam  benevolontiit 
tiuu  insignis  memoriam,  amicissimo  gratissinicK^ue  animo,  suo.  jKitri- 
aniue  nomine,  D.  D.  D. 

MDCCLXXXI. 


INTRODUCTORY  OBSKRVATIOXS. 


301 


natural  his- 

is  exclusive 

f  the  whole 

he  entire  of 

ward  of  the 

,ke  Superior 

[  from  New- 

)r  to  the  Pe- 

of  the  Hus- 

ucle.*  These 

name  of  the 

the  employ*!^ 

'  commercial 

brmation  re- 

ral  extensive 

IS  of  the  hirds 

rs  ago  hy  Mr 

Company  in 

itory.     It  ha? 

g  time  a  resi- 

countries,  oc- 

beasts,  birds, 

informed  by 

;he  year  17i.^ 

nee,  intrusted 

the  ingeniouf' 

nd  other  ran 

eh  has  been 

l)undless  territd- 

Itdifythe  expres- 

!nt^rave(J  on  the 

gentleman  wa.'' 

time  o*.'  Captain 

id  his  crews  in  a 

[hich  the  comix*- 

?ratrlcis  Aiiyniv 
kitate,  saeva,  >(iii- 
Uue  BritannicL' 
LprrH)  Rnssio. 
k'ice  excepit.  rt- 
lis  dimisit;  Ri-' 
Tim  benevolentiiv 

luimo,  sue,  iKitri- 


characterized  as  the  most  original  and  valuable  work  of 
tlie  kind  in  the  English  language.  In  the  course  of  the 
year  1 7 i9,  Ellis*  and  I)rage,t  the  latter  of  whom  was  clerk 
to  the  CaUfornia,  published  the  resi)ective  narratives  of 
tlieir  voyage,  both  of  which  tend  to  the  illustration  of 
natural  history. 

Little  information  appears  to  have  been  received  regard- 
ing these  northern  regions  for  about  twenty  years  suc- 
ceeding the  last-mentioned  period.     Mr  William  Wailes 
went  to  Hudson's  Bay  in  17()H  for  the  purpose  of  making 
observations  on  the  transit  of  Venus,  and  was  intrusted 
on  his  return  by  Mr  Graham,  governor  of  the  Company's 
fort  at  Severn  River,  with  a  collection  of  quadrupeds, 
birds,  and  fishes,  for  presentation  to  the  Royal  Society. 
These  specimens  were  described  by  John  Reinhold  For- 
sier,;}:  and  appear  to  have  excited  so  much  attention  that 
the  Royal  Society  requested  that  directions  should    be 
<:;iven  by  the  governor  and  committee  of  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company,  with  a  view  to  the  more  frequent  and  ex- 
tensive collection  and  transmission  jf  objects  of  natural 
history.     Accordingly  several  hundred  specimens  of  ani- 
mals and  plants,  collected  at  Fort  Albany,  were  trans- 
mitted by  Mr   Humphrey  Martin.     His  successor,  Mr 
Hutchins,  was  still  more  industrious ;  for  he  not  only 
prepared  numerous  specimens,  but  drew  up  minute  de- 
scriptions of  whatever  quadrupeds  and  birds  he  could 
procure.     It  was  in  fact  from  his  observations  (preserved 
iu  a  folio  volume  in  the  Library  of  the  Hudson's  Bay 
Company II)  that   Pennant  and  Latham  chiefly  derived 
whatever  was  valuable   in  their  works§    regarding   the 
feathered  tribes  of  Hudson's  Bay.     Cook's  third  voyage 
tlirew  some  light,  from  circumstances  not  now  very  effi- 
L'i'Mit,  on  the  species  of  the  north-west  of  America  and 
Behring's   Straits.H     Pennant's  ^'  Arctic  Zoology"  was 
pubHshed  in  1785,  and  contains  the  most  ample  descrip- 
tive  catalogue  of  Arctic  American  quadrupeds  and  birds 

*  Voyage  to  Hudson's  Ba\'  in  the  Dobhs  and  California. 

t  Voyage  by  Hudson's  Straights.  ij:  Phil.  Trans.  177-. 

II  For  tliis  information  we  are  indebted  to  l)r  Richardson. 
Ka\Hm  Boreali-Americana,  vol.  ii.,  Introduction,  p.  xi. 

>i  Arctic  Zoology,  and  General  Synopsis  of  Birds. 

•y  From  the  want  of  engraved  re[)resentations,  and  tiie  subsequent 
destruction  or  dispersion  of  the  specimens  collected,  it  is  now  diffi- 
cult to  identify  the  species  with  precision. 


302 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


wliich  had  appeared  prior  to  I)r  Richardson's  recent 
voliiines. 

These  may  he  rep;ar(led  as  ainonjj;  the  more  accu- 
rate sources  of  information  up  to  tlie  commencement 
of  our  own  scientific  exj)editions  hy  land  and  sea, — for 
althouf^h  Umfraville  and  Ilearne  no  douht  illustrate  the 
hahitsof  som(;of  the  more  connnon  species,  and  the  well- 
known  voyages  of  \'ancouver,  Portlock,  Meares,  and 
r.an<»;sdorff',  to  the  nortli-west, — and  the  journeys  of 
Lewis  and  Clarke  to  the  banks  of  the  Columbia,  contri- 
bute to  our  stock  of  knowledge,  yet  no  very  important 
results  were  thereby  obtained.  The  naturalists  attached 
to  Kotzebue's  ex})edition  also  acquired  some  information 
*-egarding  the  zoology  of  the  north-west  coasts  ;  and  the 
Appendix  to  Ca])tain  Beechey's  \'^oyage,  now  in  prepara- 
tion, will  probably  throw  considerable  light  on  those  for- 
lorn regions  of  the  world.* 

The  most  exact  and  systematic  information  which  we 
possess  regarding  the  zoology  of  the  extreme  nortiicrn 
r.hores  an(l  insular  groups  of  America  is  contained  in  the 
Appendices  to  the  voyages  of  Captains  Ross  and  Parry,  in 
Mr  Joseph  Sabine's  Appendix  to  the  Narrative  of  Sir  John 


*  We  slioiild  i^ladly  have  availed  ourselves  of  ;he  inforniatidii 
<M>nlained  in  the  Zoological  Appendix  to  Captain  Beecliey's  pub- 
lislied  voyau:e,  which  we  \uider.stand  has  heen  tor  some  time  printed. 
It  has  not  yet,  howevcT,  made  its  appearance.  Few  specimens  (it 
q\iadrupeds  were  hroiiy'lit  hy  that  expedition  f'nmi  North  Ameri(a: 
and  we  are  informed  tliat  the  only  new  one  was  a  scpiirrel  i'wnu  Ca- 
lifornia. Dr  IJichardson  has  supplied  a  list  of  all  the  mammalia 
known  to  inhahit  the  Pacific  Coast  to  the  north  of  California.  Il 
includes  TO  species,  of  which  the  followiujj;-  are  not  in  the  Fauna 
Boreali- Americana  :  viz.  C'<ni>s  ovliropus^  lischscholtz,  Zoologiscli. 
Atl.pl.  2;  Ftiis  ainco/nr  ;  F.  ottva  ;  six  species  of  seal ;  Tr<- 
chcc/nis  rosfvnrus ;  l)i(lcl})h)s  V'lru'niuuia ;  Arrinj/a  rulirk'i.- 
fust  (Rich.),  descrihed  from  Mr  Collie's  notes — (this  animal  was 
ohtained  in  Behring-'s  Straits,  hut  no  specimen  was  hrouj^ht  honic: 
it  is  allied  to  Arvicola  acoiKwiii.s  of  Pallas) ;  Arctoviy.s  cal'iiidtu. 
P^schsch.  pi.  <>,  a  species  resemhliuL!;'  .trctouif/s  prninosus  of  Pen- 
nant; and  Sciriru.s  I'oliui'i  (Rich.),  from  San  Bias,  California. 

We  are  further  informed  that  in  this  forthcoming' Appendix,  Mi 
V'iji^ors  enumerates  nearly  100  species  of  birds;  hut  as  the  localitit'» 
at  which  they  were  procured  were  not  oriainally  noted  witli  preri- 
sion,  it  will  he  the  more  difiicult  to  define  the  ranges  of  those  wliiili 
characterize  the  northern  reg;ions. 

I'ew  northern  fishes  were  ohtained  ;  hut  Mr  Bennet  liasfurnishH 
an  account  of  such  as  were  procured  at  Kumtschatka. 


INTRODUCTORY  OBSERVATIONS. 


303 


on's   recent 

more   accu- 
imenceiTient 
ul  sea,— tor 
Uustrate  the 
nd  the  well- 
^eares,   and 
iourneys  of 
nl)ia,  coiitri- 
ry  im])ortaiit 
ists  attached 
;  information 
sts ;   and  the 
V  in  prepara- 
on  those  ibr- 

on  which  wo 
ime  northern 
itfiined  in  the 
and  Parry,  in 
ve  of  Sir  John 


;ho  infonnatinn 
B(MH-li(>y's  pub- 
me  tlTiie  printed, 
cvv  spcc'imtMis  lit 
S'orth  Aim'rica: 
(piirrel  tVoin  Ca- 
tho  maniuuilia 
:'  California.     1' 
lot  in  the  Fauna 
.)ltz,Z()ol()gi^c!i. 
[s  of  seal ;   Ty- 
Irirotu  rithrkr.- 
his  animal  was 
L  hrou^"ht  hoiiif: 
\l(ymys  cd/ifi'il"- 
[jnosJis  of  Ft'"- 
I,  Califoniia. 
;  Appendix,  M' 
as  the  localitie; 
ited  with  preii- 
s  of  those  wliicli 

liethasfurniblu'! 


FrankHn's//;*.s7  Journey,  and  in  I)r  Richardson's  "  Fauna 
Boreali-Americana," — a  work  lately  characterized  as  an 
"  admirable  volume,  which,  while  it  conveys  more  sub- 
stantial information  on  the  sid)ject  of  Arctic  zoolo^^y  than 
any  pubhcation  that  has  appeared  since  the  time  of  Pen- 
nant, is  also  highly  valuable  as  correctinji;  the  occasional  er- 
rors of  that  excellent  work,  and  addin<i;  all  the  most  useful 
and  interesting  information  which  has  been  more  recently 
ac(juired."*  The  best  account  which  we  yet  {)ossl'ss  of 
the  zoology  of  (rreenland  is  that  of  Otho  Fabricius.t 
The  ornithology  of  that  country  has  likewise  been  ably 
illustrated  by  Captain  Sal)ine.;{: 

We  shall  now  ])roceed  to  give  a  concise  general  view  of 
the  nature  of  the  different  tracts  of  country  of  which  we 
are  afterwards  to  describe  the  zoological  productions. 
This  we  shall  do  in  conformity  with  the  views  so  lucidly 
presented  by  l)r  Richardson. || 

The  I{ocky  ^lountains  form  the  most  interesting  and 
pronnnent  feature  in  the  physical  geogra])hy  of  North 
America.  Though  much  nearer  the  western  than  the 
eastern  shore  of  that  great  continent,  they  appear  to  form, 
m  relation  to  the  distribution  both  of  plants  and  animals, 
a  strongly-marked  line  of  demarcation,  which  presents  a 
barrier  to  the  progress  or  migration  of  many  species.  Xo 
doubt,  the  direction  of  this  vast  chain  being  from  south 
to  north,  it  lies  in  the  line  of,  rather  than  at  right  angles 
to,  the  usual  course  of  migration,  and  therefore  opposes 
a  less  formidable  barricade  than  if  it  were  stretched  across 
the  continent.  As  it  is,  however,  the  natural  produc- 
tions which  occur  on  the  plains  on  different  sides  of  this 
lengthened  range  exhibit  a  considerable  dissimilarity. 
Nature,  under  the  regulation  of  the  laws  of  Providence, 
has  no  doubt  made  many  exceptions  to  this  rule  in  favour 
of  species  which  occur  on  both  sides  of  the  chain  ;  but 
the  distribution  both  of  plants  and  animals,  if  not  regu- 
lated, is  at  least  modified  by  the  intervention  of  these 
mountains. 

This  continuous  chain,  of  which  the  loftiest  j)eak  at- 
tains to  an  elevation  of  15,000  feet,  stretches  from  Mexico 
in  a  north-west  direction,  and,  pursuing  a  course  nearly 


*  Kdinburti^h  Review,  Xo.  lOfi,  p.  S4f>.       -f-  Fauna  Gropnlandica. 

*  Memoir  on  the  Hirds  of  (ireenland.      Finn.  Trans,  vol.  xii. 

''\  Fauna  iioreali-Americuna,  vol.  i.,  Introduction,  pp.  xix.  xxiv. 


rjot 


NATURAL  lilSTOIlY 


parallel  with  the  shores  of  the  PaciHc  Ocean,  terminates 
about  the  7()th  (leji:ree  of  north  latitude,  to  the  westward 
of  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  River,  and  withii;  sight  of 
tlie  Arctic  Sea.     Though  much  inferior  in  lieight  to  the 
Andes  of  the  southern  continent,  of  which,  however,  in 
a  general  sense,  they  may  he  regarded  as  the  nortlierii 
continuation,  they  greatly  exceed  in  elevation  the  otlur 
mountain-chains  of  North  America.     This,  indeed,  hf. 
comes  apparent  from  a  consideration  of  the  courses  of  thf 
great  rivers  of  the  country,  all  of  which,  with  the  exccj). 
tion  of  the  lake-horn  St  Lawrence,  derive  their  sources 
and  primary  streams  from  the  Rocky  ^Mountains,  how- 
ever different  may  he  the  direction  in  which  their  waters 
flow.     The  Columbia,  for  example,  which  falls  into  the 
Northern  Pacific  Ocean  in  the  Kith  })arallel,  derives  its 
primary  streams  from  the  western  slopes  of  the  same  rockv 
chain,  the  eastern  sides  of  which  give  rise  to  the  waters  of  the 
Missouri,  which,  following  a  south-easterly  and  southern 
direction,  terminate  their  long-continued  course  of  looo 
miles  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.    The  Saskatchawan,  in  i)otli 
its  great  branches,  likewise  flows  from  the  eastern  slopes  ot 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  and,  uniting  its  streams  a  short  wav 
below^  Carlton  Mouse,  it  flows  through  Lake  Winipeg,  and 
then,  assuming  the  name  of  Nelson  River,  it  empties  itself. 
in   the  vicinity   of  Cape  Tatnam,   into  Hudson's  Bay. 
In  like  manner,  the  Mackenzie,  which,  in  respect  of  size. 
may  be  regarded  as  the  third  river  in  North  America 
(being  inferior  to  the  Missouri  and  St  Lawrence  alone). 
derives  its  two  main  branches,  the  Elk  and  Peace  Rivers. 
from  these  mountains  ;  and  ere  long,  flowing  northwards 
and  in  a  north-westerly  direction,  it  opens  its  numcroiii; 
mouths  into  the  Polar  Sea,  after  a  course  of  nearly  20(Hi 
miles.     It  may  be  mentioned  as  a  singular  fact,  that  thi- 
Peace  River  actually  rises  on  the  western  side  of  the 
Rocky  Mountain  riclge,  within  300  yards  of  the  source 
of  the  Tacootchesse,  or  Phraser's  liiver,  which  flows  into 
tlie  Strait  of  (leorgia,  on  the  western  shore.* 

At  a  considerable  distance  below  its  issue  from  Great 
Slave  Lake,  and  where  the  jMackenzie  makes  its  first 
near  approach  to  the  Rocky  IVIountains,  it  is  joined  by 
a  large  stream  which  runs  a  little  to  the  northward  of 
tlie  Peace  River,  and  flows  along  the  eastern  base  of  the 

*  Edinburj^h  Review,  No.  100,  p.  1352. 
7 


INTRODUCTORY  OBSERVATIONS. 


'M): 


,  terminates 
le  westward 
thin  sight  of 
1  eight  to  thr 
liowever,  in 
he  nortlicrn 
)n  the  otiur 
,  indeed,  bc- 
ourses  of  thr 
h  the  exce]). 
their  sources 
ntains,  how- 
,  their  waters 
falls  into  the 
el,  derives  its 
he  same  rocky 
e  waters  of  the 
and  southern 
ourse  of  4>()(> 
awan,  in  both 
Lstern  slopes  of 
ms  a  short  way 
I  Winipeg,  ami 
.  empties  itseh'. 
ludson's  Bay. 
•espect  of  size- 
;orth  America 
vrence  alone). 

Peace  Rivers, 
ng  northwards 

its  numerous 

f  nearly  'ioim 
fact,  that  thi 

•n  side  of  the 
of  the  source 

lich  flows  into 

te  from  (ireat 
nakes  its  tirst 
,  is  joined  by 
northward  of 
rn  base  of  the 


mountains.     It  was  called  the  Kiver  of  the  Mountains  by 
Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie;  but  it  lias  since,  on  account  of 
its  great  magnitude,  become  more  generally  recognised 
by  the  traders  under  the  name  of  the  South  Branch  of 
the  Mackenzie.      The  Mackenzie  also  receives  several 
Dther  large  streams  in  the  course  of  its  seaward  journey, 
and  among  others  (ireat  Hear  Lake  liiver,  whose  head- 
uaters  draw  their  source  from  the  banks  of  the  Copper- 
mine I'.ver,  and  Peel's   ]{iver,  which   issues   from    thu 
llocky  iMountains  in  latitude  (iT^.     "  Immediately  after 
the  junction  of  Peel's  Uiver,"  l)r  Uichardson  observes, 
•  the  Mackenzie  separates  into  numerous  branches,  which 
tiow  to  the  sea  through  a  great  delta  comjK»sed  of  alluvial 
iiiiul.     Here,  from  the  richness  of  the  soil,  and  from  the 
river  bursting  its  icy  chains  comj)aratively  very  early  in 
the  season,  and  irrigating  the  low  delta  with  the  warmer 
waters    brought   from    countries   ten    or  twelve  degrees 
farther  to  the  southward,  trees  flourish,  and  a  more  lux- 
uriant vegetation  exists  than  in  any  place  in  the  same 
[larallel  on  the  North  American  continent."*     In  latitude 
•i^  ,  there  are  many  groves  of  handsome  white  s})ruce- 
firs.  and  in  latitude  ()9',  on  the  desolate  shores  of  the 
Polar  Sea,   ('ense  and  well-grown  willow-thickets  cover 
tlie  flat  islands  ;  while  currants  antl  gooseberries  grow  on 
the  drier  hummocks,  accompanied  by  showy  epilobiums 
uul  j)erennial  lu])ins.     The  moose-deer,  the  beaver,  and 
the  American  hare,  follow  this  extension  of  a  life-sus- 
taining vegetation,  and  the  existence  of  these  herbivorous 
.mimals  induces  a  corresponding  increase  in  the  localities 
*)\'  wolves,  foxes,  and  other  predaceous  kinds. 

The  above  mentioned  are  the  principal  rivers  which 
traverse  the  fur-countries  of  America.  There  are,  how- 
ever, a  few  others  of  smaller  size,  the  banks  of  which 
yielded  their  share  of  the  natural  history  collections,  and 
"lay  therefore  be  briefly  noticed.  Hayes  Kiver  takes 
its  origin  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Lake  Winipeg,  and, 
ifter  running  a  course  almost  parallel  to  that  of  Nelson's 
Kiver,  it  falls  into  the  same  quarter  of  Hudson's  Bay. 
Vork  Factory,  so  frecjuently  mentioned  in  the  narratives 
>)f  our  northern  expeditions,  stands  on  the  low  alluvial 
point  that  separates  the  mouths  of  these  two  rivers.  The 
Missinnippi,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the  English 

*  Fa\ina  Boreali-Americanu,  vol.  i.,  Introduction,  p.  xxii. 

T 


30  () 


NATURAL  IIISTORV. 


Hiver,  falls  into  Iliidsor's  liay  at  Churchill.     Its  upper 
stream  is  deno/ninatcd  the  lieaver  Itiver,  and   takes  it^ 
rise  from  a  small  ridj2;e  of  hills,  intermediate  hetwecn  a 
hend  of  the  Klk  Kiver  and  the  northern  hranch  of  the 
Saskatchawan.      Lastly,  the  Coppermine   Uiver  derives 
its  ori<;in  not  far  from  the  east  end  oi  (ireat  Slave  Lake, 
and  pursuing  a  northerly  course,  already  made  familiar 
to  our  readers,  it  flows  throuf^h  the  Barren  (irounds  into 
the  Arctic  Sea.     It  is  inferior  in  size  to  several  hranciuh 
of  the  ^Mackenzie ;  and  as  there  are  few  alluvial  deposites 
alonsi  its  hanks,  it  is  deficient  in  that  comparative  luxu- 
riance of  vefj^etation  which,  along  the  banks  of  the  Mac. 
kenzie,  induces  several  species  of  herbivorous  (juadrupeiN 
to  seek  a  higher  latitude  than  they  elsewhere  attain.     Did 
our  limits  permit  we  could  dwell  with  pleasure  on  this 
example  of  the  interconnexion  or  mutual  dej)endence  of 
the  links  of  a  lengthened  chain  of  facts  in  natural  historv. 
There  are  various  practicable  passages  across  the  Kockv 
Mountains.     Sir  Alexander  ^Mackenzie  crossed  them  in  thi 
year  1 7  93,  at  the  head  of  the  Peace  Uiver,  between  latitudes 
55°  and  .5()°.     The  same  route  was  followed  in  IHOd  by  a 
party  of  the  North-west  Company,  who  went  to  form  a  set. 
tlement  in  New  Caledonia.     It  is  still  occasionally  used  hv 
the  servants  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Company.     In  the  year 
I  S().5,  Lewis  and  Clarke  effected  a  passage  at  the  head  of 
the  Missouri,  in  latitude  47°,  on  their  way  to  the  moiitli 
of  the  Columbia.     I)r  llicbardson  informs  us,  that  for 
several  years  subsequent  to  that  period,  the  North-wesi 
Company  were  in  the  habit  of  crossing  in  latitude  52;'°, at 
the  head  of  the  north  branch  of  the  Saskatchawan,  between 
which  and  one  of  the  feeding  streams  of  the  Columlia 
there  is  a  short  portage ;  but  of  late  years,  owing  to  tiie 
hostility  of  the  Indians,  that  route  has  been  deserted,  and 
the  Hudson's  Bay  Company,  who  now  engross  the  whole 
of  the  fur-trade  of  that  country,  make  use  of  a  more  lenctli. 
ened  portage  between  the  northern  branch  of  the  Coluiii- 
bia  and  the  Red  Deer  River,  one  of  the  branches  of  the 
Elk  or  Mackenzie.     We  are  likewise  informed  that  at- 
tempts have  been  recently  made  to  effect  a  passage  in  the 
(j'2d  parallel  of  latitude  ;  but  although  several  ridges  of  the 
mountains  were   crossed,  it   does  not  appear   that  any 
stream  flowing  towards  the  Pacific  was  attained. 

The  latest  journeys  across  the  Rocky  Mountains  witli 
which  we  happen  to  be  acquainted,  are  those  of  ^Messrs 


inou 

indi 

Klk 

iecti 

"  w 

natu 

ing 

cinit 

jour 

whic 

(iaun 

obta 

Colui 

ami  ] 

lie  ha 

taken 

that 

u-as 

liiso 

jitimi 

•  Th 

to  pel 

tripo 


IMTHOIH'CTORY  (HISKRVATKLVS. 


307 


Druinmond  and  I)ouu;las,  two  skilful  and  enterprising 
botanists,  hotli  l)el()nji;in<j;  professionally  to  that  hifzli  class 
of  practical  horticulturists  for  which  Scotland  has  heen 
lonj^  famous,  and  of  which  she  is  so  justly  proud. 

i\Ir  Drunnnond  acted  in  the  capacity  of  assistant-natu- 
ralist to  Sir  .John  Franklin's  sacoitd  overland  expedition, 
,111(1  it  was  to  his  unrivalled  skill  in  collectin<i;,  and  inde- 
fiiti};al)le  zeal,  that  I)r  Kichardson  was  indehtedfor  a  lari^e 
proportion  hoth  of  the  hotanical  and  zoolo!i;ical  collections. 
He  continued  at  C'uniherland  Mouse  in  is'^.j,  and  occupied 
himself  collecting  plants  during  the  month  of  July,  after 
the  main  hody  of  the  expedition  had  departed  northwards. 
He  then  ascended  the  Saskatcliawan  for  6(H)  miles,   to 
Kdmonton  House,  performing  much  of  the  journey  on 
foot,  and  amassing  ohjects  of  natural  history  by  the  way. 
lie  left  Edmonton  House  on  the  '22d  of  September,  and 
Vrossing  a  thickly-wooded  swampy  country  to  Ued  Deer 
Kiver,  a  branch  of  the  Elk  or  Athabasca,  he  travelled 
along  its  banks  until  lie  reached  the  Rocky  Mountains, 
the  ground  being  by  this  time  covered  with  snow.     Hav- 
ing explored  the  portage-road  for  fifty  miles  across  the 
mountains    towards   the  Columbia   Uiver,    he  hired   an 
Indian  hunter,  with  whom  he  returned  to  the  head  of  the 
Elk  River,  on  which  he  passed  the  winter  making  col- 
lections, under  privations  which,  Dr  Richardson  observes, 
"  would  have  ett'ectually  quenched  the  zeal  of  a  less  hardy 
naturalist."     He  revisited  the  Columbia  portage-road  dur- 
ing the  month  of  April  iS'iG,  and  continuetl  in  that  vi- 
cinity until  the  10th  of  August,  after  which  he  made  a 
journey  to  the  head- waters  of  the  Peace  River,  during 
which  he  suffered  .severely  from  fami)ie.     But  nothing 
I  daunted,  our   enduring  countryman,  as  soon  as  he  had 
obtained  a  supply  of   provisions,  hastened  back  to  the 
1  Columbia  portage,  with  the  view  of  crossing  to  that  river, 
i<iiul  botanising  for  a  season  on  its  banks.     However,  when 
I  he  had  reached  the  west  end  of  the  portage,  he  was  over- 
taken by  letters  from  Sir  John  FrankUn,  informing  him 
that  it  was  necessary  to  be  at  York  Factory  in  1827.    He 
was  therefore  obliged  to  commence  his  return,  greatly  to 
lliis  own  regret :  for  a  transient  view  of  the  Columbia  had 
stimulated  his  desire  to  investigate  its  natural  treasures. 
i  '■  The  snow,"  he  observes,  "  covered  the  ground  too  deeply 
to  permit  me  to  add  much  to  my  collections  in  this  hasty 
'  tnp  over  the  mountains ;  but  it  was  impossible  to  avoid 


30  S 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


noticing;  the  rp*eat  superiority  of  the  cHmate  on  the  west. 
erii  side  of  that  lofty  range.     From  the  instant  the  descent 
towards  tiie  Pacific  commences,  tliere  is  a  visil)le  improve, 
nient  in  tlie  pjrowth  of  tind)er,  and  the  variety  of  forest. 
trees  j^reatly  increases.     The  few  mosses  that  I  gler.itd 
in  tlie  excursion  were  so  fine  that  I  could  not  })ut  deei)h 
rep;ret  that  I  was  unable  to  pass  a  season  or  two  in  that 
interesting  region."     He  now  reluctantly  turned  his  batk 
upon  the  mountains, and,  returning  by  Edmonton  House, 
where  he  spent  some  time,  he  joined  Dr  Uichardsoii  at 
Carlton  House,  on  his  homeward  journey.     Mr  Druiti. 
iTiond's  collections  on  the  mountains  and  plains  of  tlu 
Saskatchawan  amounted  to  about  1500  species  of  ))lants, 
1.50  birds,  .50  quadrupeds,  and  a  considerable  number  o' 
insects.     He  remained  at  Carlton  House  for  six  weeks 
after  Dr  Richardson  had  left  that  place,  and,  descendiiij: 
to  Cumberland  House,  he  there  met  Captain  Back,  whoin 
he  accompanied  to  York  Factory.     He  had  previously. 
however,  had  the  pleasure  of  being  joined  by  a  country, 
man  and   kindred  spirit,  Mr  David  Douglas,  the  other 
indefatigable  collector  to  whom  we  have  already  alluded. 
Mr  Douglas  had  been  engaged  in  gathering  plants  for 
three  years  for  the  Horticultural  Society,  in  North  Cali.  f 
fornia  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Columbia  River.     He  had 
crossed  the  Rocky  JMountains  from  the  westward,  at  tbt 
head  o+'  tlie  Elk  River,  by  the  same  portage-road  jire. 
viously  traversed  by  Mr  Drummond,  and  liaving  spent 
a  short  time  in  visiting  the  Red  River  of  Lake  Winipeji, 
be  returned  to  England  along  with  jNIr  Drummond  by  tin 
way  of  Hudson's  Ray.*     "  Thus,  a  zone  of  at  least  two 
degrees  of  latitude  in  width,  and  reaching  entirely  acro>:> 
the  continent,  from  the  mouth  of  the  Cohimbia  to  that 
of  the  Nelson  River  of  Hudson's  Bay,  has  been  explored 
by   two  of  the  ablest  and  most  zealous  collectors  that 
England  has  ever  sent  forth ;  while  a  zone  of  similar 
width,  extending  at  right  angles  with  the  other  froiri 
Canada  to  the  Polar  Sea,  has  been  more  cursorily  ex. 
amined  by  the  expe(litions."-f- 

*  Tliese  enterprising'  men  have  been  for  a  oonsideraI)k'  \)em\ 
respectively  engaged  in  a  second  jonrney  of  great  extent,  tliroiiL'ii 
various  regions  of  North  America'.     The  ditlferent  departments  i' 
natural  liistory  are  expected  to  gain  a  rich  harvest  by  their  zealou-  j 
and  discriminating  labours. 

•f  Fauna  Boreaii-Americana,  vol.  i.,  Introduction,  p.  xviii. 


th( 

,)f 

to 

oi' 

by 

\Vi 

Ch 

^vai 

we 

kiu 

its 

oft 

tioi 

cep 

this 

vati 

rati 

and 

row 

feet 

stui 

inoi 


vail. 

ston 

lock 

chai 

by  a 

the 

mos 

The 

vaili 

the? 

tlem 

the( 

fami 

Fi 

tive 
rior. 
mile 
it  re( 


INTRODUCTORY  OBSERVATIONS. 


:j()f) 


e  on  the  west. 

ant  the  (lesccnt 

sihlc  im])rovf. 

riety  of  t'orest- 

;hat  I  gk';v.ic(l 

»ot  hut  deeply 

or  two  in  that 

Limed  his  back 

nonton  Housi, 

Richardson  at 

■.     Mr  Drum. 

plains  of  tlu 

ecies  of  ])lants, 

ihle  niiniber  o' 

for  six  \vi'(.'k> 

nd,  descending 

in  Back,  whom 

lad  previously, 

I  hy  a  country- 

trlas,  the  other 

Iready  alhulod. 

ring  plants  for 

in  North  Cali- 

liver.     lie  had 

3stward,  at  tht 

•tage-road  prt- 

l  having  spent 

Lake  Winipe?, 

immond  by  tlie 

of  at  least  two 

entirely  acro?^ 

umbia  to  that 

been  explored 

collectors  that 

one  of  similar 

le  other  from 

cursorily  ex- 


nsideralde  \)i'n*^' 
t  extent,  thnm.'! 
t  departments  'V 
t  hy  their  zealuu- 

on,  p.  xviii. 


That  widely-extended  tract  of  territory  which  lies  to 
the  eastward  of  the  Uocky  .Mountains,  and  to  the  north 
of  the  Missouri  and  the  Cireat  Lakes,  is  now  well  known 
to  the  Hudson's  Bay  traders,  with  exception  of  the  shores 
of  the  I*olar  Sea,  and  a  corner,  hounded  to  the  westward 
by  the  Coppermine  Biver,  (ireat  Slave,  Athabasca, 
\Vollaston,  and  Deer  Lakes,  to  the  southward  by  the 
Churchill  or  Missinnippi,  and  to  the  northward  and  east- 
ward by  the  sea.  When  viewed  under  a  zoological  aspect, 
we  tiud  that  this  north-eastern  corner,  more  particu'.rly 
known  under  the  name  of  the  "  Barren  Grounds,"  carries 
its  purely  Arctic  character  farther  to  the  south  than  any 
of  the  other  meridians.  This  very  bare  and  desolate  por- 
tion of  America  is  almost  entirely  destitute  of  wood,  ex- 
cept along  the  banks  of  its  larger  rivers.  The  rocks  of 
this  district  are  primitive,  and  rarely  rise  to  such  an  ele- 
vation as  to  deserve  the  name  of  mountain-ridges,  being 
rather  an  assemblage  of  low  hills  Avith  rounded  sunnnits, 
and  more  or  less  precipitous  sides.  The  soil  of  the  nar- 
row valleys  which  separate  these  hills  is  either  an  imper- 
fect peat-earth,  affording  nourishment  to  dwarf  birches, 
stunted  willows,  larches,  and  black  spruce  trees, — or, 
more  generally,  it  is  composed  of  a  rocky  debris,  consist- 
ing of  dry,  coarse,  quartzose  sand,  unadapted  to  other  ve- 
getation than  that  of  lichens.  The  centres  of  the  larger 
valleys  are  filled  with  lakes  of  limpid  water,  which  are 
stored  with  fish,  even  though  frequently  completely  land- 
locked. More  generally,  however,  one  of  these  lakes  (hs- 
charges  its  waters  into  another,  through  a  narrow  gorge, 
by  a  turbulent  and  rapid  stream  ;  and,  indeed,  most  of 
the  rivers  which  irrigate  these  bar /en  grounds  may  al- 
most be  viewed  as  a  chain  of  narrow  and  connected  lakes. 
The  rein-deer  or  caribou,  and  the  musk-ox,  are  the  })re- 
vailing  quadrupeds  of  these  unproductive  wastes,  where 
the  absence  of  fur-bearing  species  has  prevented  any  set- 
tlement by  the  traders.  The  only  human  inhabitants  are 
the  caribou-eaters, — a  people  composed  of  a  few  forlorn 
families  of  the  Chipewyans. 

From  the  district  above  described,  a  belt  of  low  primi- 
tive rocks  extends  to  the  northern  shores  of  Lake  Su{)e- 
rior.  Dr  Richardson  calculates  its  width  at  about  200 
miles ;  and  he  states  that,  as  it  becomes  more  southerly, 
it  recedes  from  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  differs  from 


;jio 


NAT!  UAI-  HIS  roll  Y 


the  Harren  (irounds  in  hcin^  well  wooded.  It  is  l)oun(!o(l 
to  tlie  eastward  hy  a  narrow  strip  of  limestone,  beyond 
wliicli  there  is  a  Hat,  swampy,  and  partly  alhivial  district, 
tbrmiii};  tlie  westerti  slioresof  Hudson's  Hay.  'I'his  tract, 
from  tlie  western  border  of  the  low  j)rimitive  tract  just 
mentioned  to  the  coast  of  Hudson's  Hay,  has  l)een  named 
the  Kdstrru  Di.strirt,  and  |)resents  us  with  several  ani- 
mals unknown  to  the  hit^her  latitudes. 

The  Eastern  District  is  bounded  to  the  westward  l)y  a 
flat  limestone  deposite  ;  and  a  remarkable  chain  of  lakes 
and  rivers,  such  as  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  Lake  Wini. 
pefj;,  Heaver  Lake,  and  the  central  j)ortio!i  of  Churchill  or 
Alissinnippi,  all  of  kvhicli  lie  to  the  southward  of  the 
Methye  i'orta<;e,  nuirks  the  line  of  jui'ction  of  the  two 
formations.  This  district,  wliich  l)r  Hichardson  has 
named  the  Unicstimv  Tract,  is  well  wooded,  and  pro- 
(luces  the  fur-bearin*;  animals  in  great  abundance.  The 
white  or  Polar  bear,  the  Arctic  fox,  the  Hudson's  Hay 
lemminp;,  and  several  other  species  disappear,  while 
their  ])Iaces  are  filled  u])  by  bisons,  bats,  and  s(|uirrcls. 
unknown  to  the  other  regions. 

Intermediate  1)etwcen  tlie  limestone  tract  and  the  foot 
of  the  Rocky  ^Mountains,  there  occurs  a  wide  expanse  of 
what  is  called  in  America  prairie  land.  So  slight  are  the 
ine(jualities  of  its  surface,  that  the  traveller,  while  cross, 
ing  it,  is  obliged  to  regulate  his  course  either  by  the  com. 
pass  or  the  observation  of  the  heavenly  bodies.  The  soil 
is  tolerably  fertile,  though  for  the  greater  proportion  dn 
and  rather  sandy.  It  supports,  however,  a  thick  grassy 
sward,  which  yields  an  abundant  pasture  to  innumerable 
h.erds  of  bison,  ?nd  many  species  of  deer ;  and  the  grizzly 
bear,  the  fiercest  and  most  powerful  of  all  the  North 
American  land-animals,  properly  so  called,  inhabits  vari- 
ous portions  of  this  wide-spread  plain.  Prairies  of  a  si- 
milar  aspect,  and  still  greater  extent,  are  known  to  bor- 
der  the  Arkansa  and  jNIissouri  rivers.  They  are  said  to 
become  gradually  narrower  to  the  northward,  and  in 
the  southern  portion  of  the  fur-countries  they  extend  for 
about  fifteen  degrees  of  longitude,  from  Maneetobaw,  or 
iManeetowoopoo,  and  Winipegoos  Lakes,  to  the  base  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains.  These  magnificent  plains  are  par- 
tially intersected  by  ridges  of  low  hills,  and  also  by  seve- 


It  is  bounded 
stone,  beyond 
lluviiil  district. 
y.  Tbis  tract. 
tive  tract  just 
is  been  named 
;b  several  aiii. 


westward  by  a 
fluiin  of  lakes 
i,  Lake  Wini- 
if  Cliurcbiilor 
bward  of  tlit 
on  of  tbe  two 
icbardson  lias 
(led,  and  ])ro. 
mdance.  The 
Hudson's  Hay 
ia})pear,  whik 
and  sciuirrdi. 


it  and  the  foot 

(le  expanse  of 

)  slight  are  the 

r,  while  cross- 

ir  by  tbe  com- 

lies.     The  soil 

proportion  dry 

a  thick  grassy 

o  innumerable 

uul  tbe  grizzly 

all  tbe  North 

inhabits  vari- 

•airies  of  a  si- 

nown  to  bor- 

ey  are  said  to 

ward,  and  in 

ley  extend  for 

aneetobaw,  or 

0  the  base  of 
plains  are  par- 

1  also  by  seve- 


INTHODK  TOriV  onSEIlV  ATIONS. 


SI  I 


ral  streams,  of  which  the  banks  are  wooded  ;  and  towards 
the  skirts  of  tbe  plains  many  detached  nuisses  of  tinely- 
tbrnied  timber,  and  pieces  of  still  water,  are  disposed  in 
y)  pleasing  and  pictures(jue  a  manner,  as  to  convey  the 
idea  rather  of  a  cultivated  Knglisb  j)ark  than  of  an  Ame- 
rican wilderness.  There  is,  however,  so  great  a  deficiency 
o:  wood  in  the  central  parts  of  these  |)lains,  that  "  tbe 
iiiinters,"  says  l)r  Uichardson,  "  are  under  the  necessity 
(f  taking  fuel  with  them  on  their  journeys,  or  in  dry 
weather  of  making  their  Hres  of  the  dung  of  the  bison. 
To  the  northward  of  the  Saskatchawan,  the  country  is 
more  broken,  and  intersected  by  woody  bills  ;  and  on  the 
banks  of  the  Peace  River  the  plains  are  of  comparatively 
small  extent,  and  are  detached  from  each  other  by  woody 
tracts:  they  terminate  altogether  in  the  angle  between  the 
Hiver  of  the  Mountains  and  (ireat  Slave  Lake.  Tbe 
abundance  of  pasture  renders  these  plains  the  favourite 
resort  of  various  ruminating  animals."* 

The  })receding  summary  brings  us  to  tbe  base  of  that 
vast  and  continuous  chain  already  so  often  mentioned 
under  the  name  of  the  Rocky  ^lountains.  It  is  inhabited 
by  many  singular  animals,  some  of  which  do  not  occur 
among  the  lower  grounds  on  either  side  of  the  range^  W'e 
have  already  stated  our  opinion  regarding  the  character 
and  physical  influence  of  this  extended  group,  and  as  we 
sl;all  ere  long  describe  tbe  most  remarkable  of  its  zoolo- 
dcal  })roductions,  we  shall  in  the  mean  time  request  the 
reader  to  descend  with  us  towards  the  western  or  Pacific 
shores.  There  we  find  several  interesting  tracts  of  coun- 
try, with  the  natural  history  of  which  we  are,  however, 
more  imperfectly  acquainted  than  we  should  desire. 

The  countries  between  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  tbe 
Pacific  are  in  general  of  a  more  hilly  nature  than  those 
already  described  to  the  eastward  ;  but  the  upper  branches 
of  the  Columbia  are  skirted  by  extensive  plains,  which 
present  the  same  general  character  as  those  of  the  Mis- 
souri and  Saskatchawan.  New  Caledonia  extends  from 
north  to  south  about  500  miles,  and  from  east  to  west 
iibout  3oO  or  400.  Its  central  post  at  Stewart's  Lake  is 
placed  in  north  latitude  o  Icj,  and  west  longitude  125  de- 
^'rees.     According  to  Mr  Harmon,  it  contains  so  many 

*  Fauna  Boreali-Americana,  vol.  i.,  Intrfxluction,  p.  2*J. 


:il2 


NATURAL  IIISTOHV. 


lakes  that  about  one-sixth  of  its  entire  surface  is  undor 
water.  The  weather  here  is  inueh  milder  tl)an  on  tin 
eastern  side  of  tiie  mountains, — an  amelioration  which  is 
no  (lou})t  owinjj;  to  the  comparatively  narrow  extent  of 
land  which  intervenes  between  the  mountains  and  the 
sea.*  However,  for  a  few  days  during  the  depth  of  win. 
ter  it  must  be  "  pretty  considerably"  cold,  as  the  thernio. 
meter  is  said  to  descend  for  a  time  to  about  thirty-two 
degrees  below  zero  of  Fahrenheit.  Snow  generally  falls 
about  the  1.5th  of  November,  and  disappears  by  the  iJtIi 
of  Mayjt  from  which  the  winter  may  be  fairly  inferred 
to  be  of  shorter  duration  by  about  one-third  than  it  is  in 
some  places  situated  under  the  same  latitude  on  the  other 
side. 

The  only  remaining  district  of  North  America  to  which 
we  need  here  allude,  as  falling  within  the  scope  of  the 
present  volume,  is  that  forlorn  region  in  the  north-west 
corner  of  the  continent,  which  forms  the  terminating  j)or. 
tion  of  the  vast  Russian  dominions.  Its  shores  have  l)eeii 
coasted  by  Cook,  Kotzebue,  and  Beechey ;  but  of  its  in- 
terior  nature  and  productions  we  are  more  si)aringly  in- 
formed.  l)r  Kichardson,  indeed,  reports,  from  infoniuu 
tion  given  by  the  few  Indians  of  Mackenzie's  River  wIki 
have  ever  crossed  the  range  of  the  Rocky  ^Mountains  in 
that  northern  quarter,  that  on  their  western  side  there  is 
a  tract  of  barren  ground  frequented  by  rein-deer  and 
musk-oxen ;  and  it  may  also  be  inferred,  from  the  quan- 
tity of  furs  procured  by  the  Russian  Company,  that  woody 
regions,  similar  to  such  as  exist  to  the  eastward  of  thi' 
mountairs,  also  occur  in  this  north-west  corner  of  Ame- 
rica. 

"  Kdinhur^li  Review,  No,  lOtJ,  p.  355. 

•j-  .lournal  of  Voyat^cs  and  Travels  in  the  Interior  of  Noitli 
Anieriea,  between  t ho  forty-seventh  and  fifty-eighth  deijree.s  ot'lali- 
tude,  by  Daniel  William  Harmon,  a  partner  in  the  North-VVi'«t 
Company.     An(h)ver,  liJ2(). 


QUADUirPFDS. 


313 


rirtce  is  under 
■  than  on  tin 
ition  which  is 
row  extent  ot 
tains  and  thi- 
(le[)th  of  win. 
LS  the  tliernio. 
jut  thirty.two 
<z;enerally  tails 
rs  hy  the  Kith 
fairly  infernd 
(I  tiian  it  is  in 
ie  on  the  other 

lerica  to  which 

J  scope  of  tile 

the  north-west 

rniinating  por- 

lores  have  heeii 

hut  of  its  iii- 

e  sparingly  in- 

from  infornuu 

ie's  River  who 

Mountains  in 

rn  side  there  is 

rein-deer  and 

rom  the  quan- 

y,  that  woody 

istward  of  thi' 

orner  of  Ame- 


iterior  of  North 

1  dei'Tees  ot'  lati- 

tlie  >orth-VVi-i 


CIIAPTKR   VI. 

The,  Quadrupeds  of  the.  Northern  Rfyions  of  Amerien. 

Iiiaeeuracies  of  some  Ilistoricul  Writers — No  Monkeys  in  North 
America  —  Bats  —  Shrewmiee  —  (iomis  Sealops,  <»r  Shrcwnioh' 
—Other  Moh's  of  Ameriea — Tlie  Star-nose — Various  Hears — 
different  Diijitated  Qiuwhiipeds— The  Canada  Otter — The  Sea- 
otter — The  Do^'s  and  Wolves  of  Ameriea — The  Foxes — The 
Beaver — The  >Iusk-rat  —  Meadow  Miee  and  Lemmings — Th(? 
Roeky  Mountain  Neotoma — The  American  Fieldmouse — The 
Marmots — Tlie  Smiirrel  Trihe — The  (,'anada  Porennine — The 
American  Hare — The  Pitlar  liar.' — The  Prairie  llare— The 
Little  Chief  Hare — Genus  Cervus — The  Elk,  or  Moose-deer — 
The  Rein-deer -The  Woodland  Carihou— The  Uoeky  Moun- 
tain Slieei) — The  Rocky  Mountain  (ioat — The  Bison,  or  Ameri- 
«;an  Buftalo — The  Muslc-ox. 

Having  in  the  preceding  chapter  exhibited  a  general 
sketch  of  some  of  the  prevaihng  features  in  the  physical 
geography  of  the  northern  countries  of  America,  we  shall 
now  proceed  to  a  more  detailed  and  systematic  account  of 
tlieir  natural  history.  Rut,  in  the  first  place,  we  may 
notice  a  slight  inaccuracy  which  prevails  in  regard  to  the 
comparative  size  of  the  ferine  inhabitants  of  the  Old  and 
New  World.  "  Nature,"  says  Dr  Robertson,*  "  was  not 
only  less  prolific  in  the  New  World,  but  she  appears 
likewise  to  have  been  less  vigorous  in  her  productions. 
The  animals  originally  belonging  to  this  quarter  of  the 
globe  appear  to  be  of  an  inferior  race,  neither  so  robust 
nor  so  fierce  as  those  of  the  other  continent.  America 
gives  birth  to  no  creature  of  such  biUk  as  to  be  compared 
with  the  elephant  or  rhinoceros,  or  that  equals  the  lion 
and  tiger  in  strength  and  ferocity.  The  tapir  of  Rrazil, 
the  largest  quadruped  of  the  ravenous  tribe  in  the  New 
U'orld,  is  not  larger  than  a  ^alf  of  six  months  old.  The 
puma  and  jaguar,  the  fiercest  beasts  of  prey,  which  Eu- 


*  In  his  History  of  America. 


""^msmmmmn 


■^i 


311- 


NATURAL  HlJ^TOIlV. 


ropeans  have  inaccurately  denominated  lions  and  tigers, 
possess  neither  the  undaunted  courage  of  tlie  former,  nor 
tlie  ravenous  cruelty  of  the  latter.*  They  are  inactive 
and  timid,  hardly  formidahle  to  man,  and  often  turn  their 
backs  upon  the  least  apiiearance  o  "  resistance.t  The 
same  qualities  in  the  climate  of  America  which  stinted 
tlie  growth  and  enfeebled  the  spirit  of  its  native  animals, 
have  proved  pernicious  to  such,  as  liave  migrated  into  it 
voluntarily  from  the  other  ccntinent,  or  have  been  trans- 
ported thither  by  the  Europeans.;}:  I'he  bears,  the  wolves, 
tlie  deer  of  America,  are  not  e(jual  in  size  to  those  of  the 
Old  World."  1 1  Now  this  idea,  t'aat  the  quadrupeds  of  the 
New  World  are  smaller  than  those  of  the  Old,  is  correct, 
only  in  relation  to  the  southern  regions  of  each.  The 
elephant  and  rhinoceros  of  India  are  of  much  more  vast 
dimensions  than  the  tapir  and  lama  of  South  America ; 
but  "  the  bears,  wolves,  and  deer"  of  North  America  are 
much  larger  than  those  of  Europe,  and  the  reptiles  of 
tliat  same  quarter  of  the  globe  are  infinitely  larger  than 
any  which  occur  in  corresponding  latitudes  o^'  the  ancient 
continent.  Even  in  regard  to  the  fehne  tribes  which  the 
great  Scotch  historian  considered  as  so  inferior  in  the 
New  World,  perhaps  there  is  less  dis})arity  tlian  is  usually 
supposed.  Buftbn's  observations  on  the  "  cowardly  tigers " 
of  the  new  continent  are  known  to  be  applicable  to  the 
f '.nail  species  called  the  ocelot ;  and  it  i?  ascertained  that 
the  real  jaguar  of  the  Orinoco  sometimes  leaps  into  the 
water  and  seizes  the  Indians  in  their  canoes, — a  practice 
not  entirely  consistent  with  the  idea  of  its  fearing  the 
face  of  man.  Let  us  peruse  the  following  passages  from 
the  writings  of  Humboldt: — "The  night  was  gloomy; 
the  Devil's  Wall  and  its  denticulated  rocks  appearal 
from  time  to  time  at  a  distance,  illumined  by  the  burn- 
ing of  the  savannahs,  or  wrapped  in  ruddy  smoke.  At 
the  spot  where  the  bushes  were  the  thickest,  our  horses 

*  Buft'on,  Hist.  Nat.  torn,  ix.  p.  HJ.  MaiLnavii  Hist.  Nat.  Bra- 
zil, p.  22U. 

■f  Ibid.  ix.  13,  203.  Acosta,  Hi.st.  lib.  iv.  c.  34.  Pi.sonis  Hist. 
p.  0.     Herroia,  doc.  4,  lib.  iv.  c.  1,  lib.  x.  c.  13. 

+  Cburcbill,  y.  p.  ♦)!ll.  Ovalle,  Kolat.  of  Cbiii.  Chuicbill,  iii. 
p.  10.  Soinmario  de  Oviodo,  c.  14 — 22.  Vovag'e  du  Dcs  Mar. 
chais,  ili.  25)». 

II  Buftbn,  Hist.  Nat.  ix.  103.  Kalm's  Travels,  i.  102.  Biet. 
Voy.  ''e  France  Equinox,  j).  339. 


QUADRUPEDS. 


31.5 


and  tigers, 
former,  nor 
are  inactive 
n  turn  their 
nce.t     The 
liich  stinted 
ive  animals, 
rated  into  it 
been  trans- 
,  the  wolves, 
those  of  the 
upeds  of  the 
d,  is  correct, 
each.     The 
■h  more  vast 
th  America; 
America  are 
le  reptiles  of 
f  larger  than 
)*:'  the  ancient 
es  which  the 
ferior  in  the 
lan  is  usually 
;artlly  tigers'' 
icable  to  the 
ertained  that 
eaps  into  the 
—a  practice 
fearing  the 
lassages  from 
^vas  gloomy; 
•ks   appeareil 
3y  the  l>urn- 
smoke.     At 
our  horses 

list.  Nat.  Bra- 

Pisonis  Hist. 

Churdiill,  iii. 
du  Dos  Mar. 

i.   102.     Biet. 


were  frightened  by  the  yell  of  an  animal  that  seemed  to 
follow  us  closely.  It  was  a  large  jaguar  that  had  roamed 
for  three  years  among  these  mountains.  He  had  con- 
stantly escaped  the  })ursuit  of  the  boldest  hunters,  and 
had  carried  off'  horses  and  mules  from  the  midst  of  en- 
closures ;  but,  having  no  want  of  food,  had  not  i/ct  attacked 
men.  The  negro  who  conducted  us  uttered  wild  cries. 
He  thought  he  should  frighten  the  jaguar ;  but  these 
means  were  of  course  without  effect.  The  jaguar,  like 
the  wolf  of  Europe,  follows  travellers  even  when  he  will 
not  attack  them :  the  wolf  in  the  open  tieids  and  in  un- 
sheltered places,  the  jaguar  skirting  the  road,  and  aj)- 
pearing  only  at  intervals  between  the  bushes."*  The 
same  illustrious  observer  also  remarks, — "  Near  the  .loval 
nature  assumes  an  awful  and  savage  aspect.  We  there 
saw  the  largest  jaguar  we  had  ever  met  with.  The  na- 
tives themselves  were  astonished  at  its  prodigious  length, 
which  surpassed  that  of  all  the  tigers  of  India  I  had  seen 
in  the  collections  of  Europe."t 

The  first  fact  to  which  we  shall  here  allude  is  one  of  a 
negative  character,  viz.  the  entire  absence  of  the  monkey 
tribe,  commonly  called  the  Qnadrnnianous  order,  from 
the  countries  of  our  present  disquisition.  The  climate  is 
too  rigorous  and  variable  for  that  "  pigmy  people." 

Of  the  next  order,  the  Cheiroptera  or  bats,  there  are 
several  North  American  species,  of  which  we  shall  here 
name  only  the  Vespertilio  subuUitus  of  Say,  a  small- 
hodied  species,  common  near  the  eastern  base  of  the  Uocky 
Mountains,  on  the  upper  branches  of  the  Peace  River  ami 
Saskatchawan. 

The  slender  and  delicutely-formed  tribe  of  shrewmiee 
are  well  known  in  Ameri:a.  Forster's  shrew  {Sore.v  For^ 
Hcri,  Rich.)  is  widely  spread  over  the  whole  of  the  fur- 
''ountries  as  far  as  the  sixty-seventh  degree  of  north  lati- 
tude ;  and  wherever  the  snow  is  sufficiently  firm  to  retain 
the  impression,  its  little  footmarks  are  seen  throughout 
the  dreary  winter.  Dr  Richardson  often  traced  its  patlis 
to  the  top  of  a  stalk  of  grass,  by  which  it  appeared  to 
descend  from  the  surface  of  the  deep  snow ;  but  he  always 
sought  in  vain  for  its  habitation  beneath.  This  is  the 
smallest  quadruped  with  which  the  Indians  are  acquaint- 


*  Personal  Narrative,  vol.  iv.  p.  17^>- 


t  Ibid.  J).  427. 


Md 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


ed,  and  they  carefully  preserve  its  skin  in  their  conjuring. 
bags.  It  has  been  a  source  of  wonder  and  athniration 
how  the  vital  power  should  preserve  its  delicate  limbs 
from  freezing  in  a  country  where  the  winter  temperature 
sinks  to  fifty  degrees  below  zero.  Of  this  species  the  tail 
is  of  a  square  form,  and  of  the  same  length  with  the  head 
and  body,  which  together  measure  rather  more  than  a 
couple  of  inches.  The  ears  are  short  and  furry,  the  back 
is  of  a  clove-brown  colour,  and  the  under  parts  are  pale 
yellowish-brown. 

A  singular  animal  (classed  under  the  genus  Scalops  of 
Cuvier)  is  known  to  the  American  naturaUsts  by  the  name 
of  shrewmole.  It  has  a  thick  cylindrical  body,  resem- 
bling  that  of  the  common  mole,  without  any  distinct 
neck.  Its  limbs  a^e  very  short,  and  appear  /emarkably 
so  in  consequence  of  their  being  enveloped  in  the  skin  of 
the  body  as  far  as  the  wrists  and  ankle-joints.  The  snout 
is  linear  and  moveable,  ami  projects  above  the  t)  ird  of  an 
inch  beyond  the  incisive  teeth.  The  eyes  are  concealed 
by  the  fur,  and  are  so  exceedingly  small,  according  to  I)r 
Godman,  that  the  aperture  of  the  skin  is  just  large  enough 
to  admit  the  entrance  of  an  ordinary-sized  human  hair. 
The  paws  closely  resemble  those  of  the  European  mole, 
and  the  fur  has  the  same  rich  velvety  appearance.  It  is 
of  a  brow^nish-black  colour,  with  a  slight  chestnut  tinge 
upon  the  forehead,  and  somewhat  paler  on  the  throat. 

Considerable  confusion  exists  in  the  history  of  the  Ame- 
ricau  moles,  and  it  is  still  a  matter  of  doubt  wdiether  nr.'i 
true  mole  (of  the  genus  Talpa)  inhabits  the  New  Wcri  ; 
"  Before  the  sun  rose,"  says  Sir  Alexander  Mackenz  c 
"  our  guides  summoned  us  to  proceed,  when  we  de- 
scended into  a  beautiful  valley,  watered  by  a  small  river. 
At  eight  we  came  to  the  termination  of  it,  when  we  saw  a 
great  number  of  moles."*  Now,  in  this  country,  though 
mo\e-hills  are  abundant,  it  seldom  happens  that  we  see  of 
the  creatures  themselves  more  than  one  at  a  time,  and 
even  that  but  rarely.  From  this  it  may  perhaps  be  in- 
ferred that  the  species  are  distinct.  However,  the  one 
which  we  have  described  above  is  frequent  on  the  banks 
of  the  Columbia  and  the  neighbouring  coasts  of  the  Pa- 


*  Voyaj^es  from  Montreal,  on  the  river  St  Lawrence,  tliroughthe 
Continent  of  North  America,  to  the  Frozen  and  Pacific  Occan>i. 
p.  314. 


QIADRIPEDS. 


:i\ 


Y  conjuring- 
.  admiration 
elicate  limbs 
temperature 
lecies  the  tail 
vith  the  head 
more  than  a 
rry,  the  hack 
arts  are  pale 

js  Scalops  of 
3  by  the  name 
body,  resem- 
any  distinct 
Lr  remarkably 
in  ihe  skin  of 
s.    The  snout 
he  t)  ird  of  an 
are  concealed 
cording  to  l)r 
t  large  enough 
I  human  hair, 
iropean  mole, 
arance.     It  is 
;hestnut  tinge 
the  throat. 
ly  of  the  Ame- 
whether  p' 
NewWc 
|er  iVIacken/  . 
when  we  de- 
a  small  river, 
hen  we  saw  a 
|untry,  though 
that  we  see  of 
|t  a  time,  and 
lerhaps  be  in- 
ever,  the  one 
on  the  banks 
Ists  of  the  Pa- 


[nce,  througlitlie 
Pacific  Oceans. 


I* 
ii 


cific.  According  to  Lewis  and  Clarke,  "  it  differs  in  no 
respect  from  the  species  so  common  in  the  United  States."* 
The  northern  range  of  the  shrewmole  is  still  unknown. 
It  is  supposed  not  to  advance  beyond  the  fiftieth  degree 
of  latitude,  because  its  favourite  food  consists  of  earth- 
worms, which  are  unknown  in  the  countries  of  Hudson's 
Bay,  although  it  may  prol)ably  reach  a  somewhat  higher 
latitude  along  the  milder  Pacific  shores.  Its  general  ha- 
bits resemi)Ie  those  of  our  own  kind.  It  is  a  subterranean 
dweller,  excavates  galleries,  throws  up  mounds,  and  feeds 
on  insects.  Tliis  species  is  said  to  have  the  singular  cus- 
tom of  coming  to  the  surface  c.rarf/i/  at  noon.  A  domes- 
ticated individual  kept  by  ]\Ir  Titian  Peale  was  lively, 
playful,  and  familiar ; — it  would  follow  the  hand  of  its 
feeder  by  the  scent,  and  then,  after  burrowing  for  a  short 
distance  in  the  loose  earth,  and  making  a  small  circuit, 
would  retur.i  again  for  a  supply  of  food.  It  fed  on 
fresh  meat,  either  cooked  or  raw,  and  was  observed  to 
drink  freely.t 

Another  singular  subterranean  species  is  the  long-tailed 
mole  of  Pennant  {Condi/lnrn  ionqimudafa,  Harlan).  The 
length  of  this  animal,  exclusive  of  the  tail,  is  nearly  five 
inches.  It  is  covered  with  a  brownish-black  velvety  coat 
of  fur,  and  the  extremity  of  its  snout  is  furnished  with  a 
cartilaginous  fringe  of  eighteen  rays,  with  two  short  bifid 
ones  beneath  the  nostrils.  It  is  from  these  appendages 
that  it  has  obtained  the  name  of  star-nn.sp.  Specimens 
were  transmitted  to  the  Zoological  Society  from  Moose 
Factory,  Hudson's  Bay.  It  is  called  naspas.s-kasic  by  the 
Salteur  Indians. 

\Ve  come  now  to  the  group  of  bears  (genus  rv.v?/*), 
which  includes  the  largest  and  most  powerful  of  the  Ame- 
rican beasts  of  prey.  It  is  natural  to  suppose  that  ani- 
mals of  almost  gigantic  size,  of  great  strength,  and  fero- 
cious habits,  would  be  too  formidable  and  dangerous  to 
the  human  race  to  remain  unknown  in  any  of  their  distin- 
tiuishing  characteristics.  Yet  the  specific  differences  of 
the  black  and  Ijrown  bears  of  Europe  and  America  are 
still  insufficiently  illustrated.  Both  continents  produce  a 
hlack  bear  and  a  brown  one, — the  white  or  Polar  bear  is 


p.  !54 


*  Travels  to  the  Source  of  tlie  Missouri  River,  vol.  iii.  p.  42. 
+  American  Natural  History,  by  John  D.  Godnian,  M.D.,  vol. 


318 


NATl  UAL  lIISTOnV. 


common  to  the  northern  latitudes  of  each,  while  America 
alone  is  inhahited  hy  the  j^rizzly  hear,  U):sns fcrov. 

The  hlack  hear  of  the  New  World  {Unas  Anivrim. 
mis)  has  a  more  arched  forehead  than  the  analogous  spc- 
cies  of  Europe.  Its  nose  is  continued  on  the  same  line 
with  the  forehead^  and  is  also  somewhat  arched,  which 
produces  one  of  its  myst  striking  physiognomical  charac- 
ters. Its  ears  are  high,  oval,  rounded  at  the  tips,  and 
are  placed  wide  apart  from  each  other.  Its  fur  is  long, 
straight,  hlack,  and  shining,  with  the  exception  of  a  large 
pale  yellowish-hrown  s[)ot  on  each  side  of  the  muzzle. 
The  hare  extremity  of  the  nose  is  more  ohliquely  truncat- 
ed than  that  of  the  hrown  hear,  and  the  palms  and  soles 
of  the  feet  are  comparatively  shorter  than  in  that  species. 
This  is  the  least  of  the  American  hearS;,  and  seldom  ex- 
ceeds  five  feet  in  length.  Its  disposition  is  also  milder, 
and  its  diet  consists  of  a  greater  proportion  of  vegetable 
substances.  It  feeds  on  various  kinds  of  roots  and  wild 
berries,  as  well  as  on  insects,  eggs,  birds,  quadrupeds,  and 
fish.  In  short,  it  may  he  said  to  be  omnivorous,  like  the 
rest  of  its  congeners,  with  this  difference,  that  when  it 
happens  to  be  amjily  supplied  with  a  favourite  vegetable 
food,  it  will  pass  the  carcass  of  a  deer  or  other  quadruped 
untouched.  It  may  be  characterized  as  rather  a  timid 
animal,  and  seldom  ventures  to  face  a  human  foe,  unless 
when  hemmed  into  a  corner,  or  emboldened  hy  the  strength 
of  parental  affection.  Its  speed  is  generally  said  not  to 
be  very  great ;  but  I)r  Richardson  states  that  he  has  seen 
a  black  bear  make  off  with  a  rapidity  that  would  have 
baffled  the  fleetest  runner,  and  ascend  a  nearly  perpendi- 
cular cliff  with  a  facility  "  that  a  cat  might  envy." 

This  species,  when  resident  in  the  fur-countries,  sleeps 
throughout  the  winter,  generally  under  a  fallen  tree,  after 
having  scraped  away  a  portion  of  the  soil.  The  first 
heavy  fall  of  snow  covers  it  up,  and  secures  it  from  an 
undue  intensity  of  cold.  In  regard  to  distribution,  it  is 
widely  spread  over  all  the  wooded  districts  of  America. 
from  Carolina  to  the  Arctic  Sea,  and  across  the  whole  of 
the  continent  from  east  to  west.  It  is,  however,  less 
abundant  near  the  seacoasts  than  in  the  interior  coun- 
tries.  "  The  skin  of  a  black  bear,  with  the  fur  in  })riine 
order,  and  the  claws  appended,  was  at  one  period  worth 
from  twenty  to  forty  guineas,  and  even  more;  but  at 
present  the  demand  for  them  is  so  small,  from  their  be- 


QUADRUPEDS. 


31  f) 


lile  America 
;fero.r. 
Hs  Anicricn. 
lalogous  s})c- 
lie  same  lino 
rched,  which 
iiical  charac- 
[he  tips,  and 
fur  is  long, 
ion  of  a  larjic 
the  muzzle, 
uely  truncat- 
ms  and  soles 
that  species. 
'  seldom  ex- 
also  milder, 
of  vegetable 
lots  and  wild 
idrupeds,  and 
rous,  like  the 
that  when  it 
rite  vegetable 
ler  quadruped 
,ther  a  timid 
n  foe,  unless 
y  the  strength 
y  said  not  to 
it  he  has  seen 
Avould  have 
rly  perpendi- 
envy." 
intries,  sleep!- 
en  tree,  after 
1.     The  tirst 
es  it  from  an 
ihution,  it  is 
of  America, 
the  whole  of 
lowever,  less 
nterior  eoun- 
fur  in  })riinL' 
period  worth 
lore;  but  at 
om  their  be- 


ing little  used  either  for  muffs  or  hammereloths,  that  the 
best,  I  believe,  sell  for  less  than  forty  shillings."* 

As  both  the  blaek  and  griz/ly  bears  vary  greatly  in  the 
colour  of  their  coats,  according  to  age  and  season,  the 
supi)osed  brown  bear  of  America  is  alleged  by  some  to 
have  arisen  from  one  or  other  of  these  variations.  From 
iiujuiries  made  by  l)r  Uiehardson  throughout  an  extent 
of  ten  degrees  of  latitude,  from  Lake  Superior  to  (ireat 
Slave  Lake,  he  could  not  ascertain  that  the  natives  of 
these  districts  were  accpiainted  with  more  than  two  s{)e- 
cies  of  land  bear,  viz.  the  one  above  described,  and  tiie 
grizzly  species.  He  found,  however,  that  the  banen 
lands  which  lie  to  the  north  and  east  of  (ireat  Slave 
Lake,  and  stretch  thence  to  the  Polar  Sea,  are  frequent- 
ed by  a  bear  which  differs  from  those  species,  and  pre- 
sents a  nearer  affinity  to  the  brown  bear  of  the  Scan- 
dinavian peninsula.  Its  general  colour  is  dusky  (some- 
times yellowish)  brown,  and  the  shoulders  and  Hanks  are 
frecjuently  covered  during  the  summer  season  with  long 
()ale-tipped  hairs.  This  is  no  doubt  the  grizzly  bear  of 
Hearnc,  though  quite  distinct  from  the  kind  now  more 
familiarly  known  under  that  appellation.  The  Indians 
greatly  dread  the  Barren  (iround  bear,  and  avoid  burning 
bones,  lest  the  smell  should  attract  so  unwelcome  a  visiter. 
It  is  narrated,  that  as  Keskarrah,  an  old  Indian,  was  one 
day  seated  at  the  door  of  his  tent  near  Fort  Enterprise,  a 
large  bear  suddenly  made  its  appearance  on  the  op})osite 
bank  of  a  small  stream,  and  remained  stationary  for  some 
time,  curiously  eyeing  the  old  gentleman,  and  apparently 
deliberating  whether  to  eat  him  up  at  that  moment  or 
wait  till  supper-time.  Keskarrah,  thinking  himself  in 
great  jeopardy,  and  having  no  one  to  assist  him  but  a 
wife  as  old  as  himself,  immediately  gave  utterance  to  the 
following  oration: — "Oh,  bear!  I  never  did  you  any 
harm  ;  I  have  always  had  the  highest  respect  for  you  and 
your  relations,  and  never  killed  any  of  them  except 
through  necessity :  go  away,  good  bear,  and  let  me  alone, 
and  I  promise  not  to  molest  you."  Bruin  instantly  took 
his  departure ;  and  the  orator,  never  doubting  that  he 
owed  his  safety  to  his  eloquence,  on  his  arrival  at  the  fort 
frequently  favoured  the  company  with  his  speech  at  full 
length.     In  the  stomach  of  one  of  these  animals  which 

*  Fauna  Boreali-Araericana,  vol.  i.  p.  20. 
G 


320 


NATIRAL  HISTOKV 


Dr  Richardson  dissected,  he  found  tlie  remains  of  a  i^eal, 
a  mannot,  a  large  quantity  of  the  long  sweet  roots  ol 
some  A.struguli  and  Hedymra,  with  some  wild  herries 
and  a  little  grass. 

The  third  American  species  of  this  genus  which  we  re- 
quire to  notice  is  the  true  grizzly  hear,  or  Vrsus  feroa. 
He  does  not  ])resent  a  very  amiable  aspect. 

This  is  the  most  formidable  animal  of  the  North  Ame- 
rican continent.  "When  full  grown  it  equals  the  size  of 
the  larger  Polar  bears,  and  is  not  only  more  active,  but  ol 
a  fiercer  and  more  vindictive  disposition.  Its  strength 
is  so  great  that  it  will  drag  the  carcass  of  a  buffalo  weigh- 
ing a  thousand  pounds.  The  following  story  of  its  prowess 
is  well  authenticated: — A  party  of  voyagers  had  been  oc- 
cupied all  day  in  tracking  a  canoe  up  the  Saskatchawan, 
and  had  seated  themselves  around  a  iire  during  the  even- 
ing twilight.  They  were  engaged  in  the  agreeable  task 
of  preparing  their  supper,  when  a  huge  grizzly  hear 
sprung  over  the  canoe  which  they  had  tilted  behind 
them,  and  seizing  one  of  the  par+y  by  the  shoulder,  car- 
ried him  off".  The  remainder  lied  in  terror,  with  the  sole 
exception  of  a  metif,  named  Bourasso,  who,  grasping  his 
gun,  followed  the  bear  as  it  was  deliberately  retreating 
with  the  man  in  its  mouth.  He  called  out  to  his  unfor- 
tunate  comrade  that  he  was  afraid  of  hitting  him  if  he  fired 
at  the  bear ;  but  the  latter  entreated  him  to  fire  instantly, 
because  the  animal  wa.s'  fsqueeziny  him  to  death.  On  tliis 
he  took  a  steady  aim,  and  lodged  his  ball  in  the  body  ot 
the  brute,  which  immediately  dropped  its  original  prey, 
that  it  might  revenge  itself  upon  Bourasso.  He,  how- 
ever, escaped,  though  with  difficulty,  and  the  monster 
soon  after  retreated  into  a  thicket,  where  it  was  supposed 
to  have  died.  But  fear  prevailed  over  every  other  feelinL\ 
and  no  one  thought  it  necessary  too  curiously  to  inquire. 
The  rescued  man  was  found  to  have  had  his  arm  fractur- 
ed,  and  to  have  been  otherwise  severely  bitten  ;  however. 
he  afterwards  recovered.  We  are  informed  by  Dr  Rich- 
ardson, that  a  man  is  now  living  in  the  vicinity  of  Ed- 
monton House  w'ho  was  attacked  by  a  grizzly  bear,  which 
suddenly  sprung  out  of  a  thicket  and  scalped  him  by  n 
single  scratch  of  its  tremendous  claws,  laying  bare  tlit 
skull,  and  pulUng  down  the  skin  of  the  forehead  quite 
over  the  eyes.  Assistance  being  at  hand,  the  bear  was 
driven  off  without  effecting  farther  injury  ;  but  the  incli- 


tins  of  a  t^eal. 

vveet  roots  of 

wild  l)errit'> 

wliich  we  rt- 
Ursus  fi'rojL. 

(  North  Arae- 

ils  tlie  size  of 

active,  but  ol 

Its  strength 

mffalo  weigh. 

of  its  prowess 

had  been  oc- 

>askatchavvaii, 

•ing  the  even- 

igreeable  task 

grizzly  bear 

tilted  behind 

shoulder,  car- 

,  with  the  sole 

,  grasping  his 

tely  retreatinj: 

;  to  his  unfor- 

him  if  he  fired 

fire  instantly, 

mill.    On  this 

n  the  body  of 

original  prey, 

0.     He,  how- 

the   monster 

was  supposed 

'  other  feelinL^ 

sly  to  inquire. 

3  arm  fractur- 

:en ;  however. 

I  by  Dr  Rich- 

icinity  of  Ed- 

ly  bear,  which 

ped  him  by  a 

ying  bare  the 

brehead  quite 

the  bear  was 

but  the  incli. 


■t. 


M 


,;j 


u 


-■"TSSSBi 


was 
and 
sion 
the 
cide 
ther 
feiiu 
tally 
sonii 
riou; 
tliet 
wish 
two 
oftl 
ever, 
won' 
tiavii 
proc( 
too. 
prud 
Tl 


QUADRrPKOS. 


3*2.'i 


vidual  attacked  was  left  in  a  most  unfortunate  and  pain- 
ful predicament,  for  the  scalj)  not  hv\\\^  properly  replaced 
ill  time,  he  lost  his  si<;ht  (although  his  eyes  remain^'d  un- 
injured), owing  to  the  fixing  and  hardening  of  that 
skinny  veil. 

INIr  Drummond,  whose  botanical  trip  to  the  Kocky 
Mountains  we  have  already  narrated,  fre<piently  met  with 
tliese  disagreeable  companions.  When  he  happened  un- 
intentionally to  come  suddenly  upon  them,  they  would 
rear  themselves  upright  on  their  hind  legs,  and  utter  a 
loud,  harsh,  and  rapid  breathing.  From  what  is  known 
of  the  hal)its  of  these  animals,  it  is  certain  that,  had  he 
lost  his  presence  of  mind  and  attempted  to  flee,  he  would 
have  been  pursued,  overtaken,  and  torn  to  pieces,  Ihit 
the  bold  Forfar-man  stood  his  ground  to  an  inch,  and 
beating  a  huge  botanical  box,  made  of  tin,  his  discordant 
iiuisic  so  astounded  the  grizzly  monsters,  that,  after  eyeing 
the  Scottish  Orpheus  for  a  few  miimtes,  they  generally 
wheeled  to  the  right  about  and  galloped  away.  He  was, 
however,  once  attacketl  by  a  female  who  was  attended  by 
her  cubs.  On  this  occasion  his  gun  unfortunately  missed 
tire  ;  but  he  kept  her  at  bay  with  the  butt-end  till  some 
gentlemen  of  the  Hudson's  Bay  Comi)any,  with  whom  he 
was  at  that  time  travelling,  came  uj)  to  his  assistance, 
and  they  succeeded  in  driving  her  off.  On  another  occa- 
sion he  observed  a  male  caressing  a  female,  and  soon  after 
the  loving  couple  came  towards  him,  but  whether  by  ac- 
cident or  design  he  was  uncertain.  However,  he  thought 
there  was  no  great  harm  in  climbing  a  tree,  and  as  the 
female  drew  near,  he  very  ungallantly  fired  at  and  mor- 
tally wounded  her.  As  usual  in  such  cases,  she  uttereil 
some  loud  screams,  which  threw  the  male  into  a  most  fu- 
rious rage,  and  he  reared  himself  up  against  the  .runk  of 
tlie  tree  on  which  I\Ir  Drummond  was  perched,  no  doubt 
wishing  himself,  if  not,  like  the  Scotch  baronet's  bird,  in 
two  places  at  one  time,  at  any  rate  in  some  other  quarter 
of  the  world  than  that  which  he  then  occupied.  How- 
ever, it  is  fortunately  so  ordained  that  grizzly  bears  either 
won't  or  can't  climb,  and  the  female  in  the  mean  while 
tiaving  retired  to  a  short  distance,  lay  down,  and  the  male 
proceeding  to  condole  with  her,  I\Ir  Drummond  shot  him 
too.  All  things  considered,  this  was  probably  his  most 
prudent  course. 

The  geographical  distribution  of  this  species  is  exten- 


:i'2i 


NATI  HAL  lirsTOUV 


sive.  AccordinLr  to  LiLMitouiiiit  Piki',  it  extends  south- 
vvanl  as  far  as  Mexico,*  and  it  is  known  to  inhabit  the 
Kooky  Mountains  and  tlu-ir  eastern  plains,  at  Ii'ast  as  I'ar 
as  the  sixty-first  de;;ree  of  north  latitude,  and  in  the  last, 
named  districts  it  occurs  most  frccjuently  in  such  woody 
re,i2;ions  as  are  interspersed  with  o\kw  prairies  and  grassv 
liills.t 

Althotiiih  unwillinti  to  detain  our  readers  nnu'h  jojv^cr 
in  such  uncouth  company,  we  cannot  clo^;e  our  account  or 
American  l)ears  without  a  short  record  of  the  white  or 
Polar  si)ecies, — the  Ursus  lUftrifiDiu-s  of  naturalists.  Tliis 
great  prowler  of  t!ie  Arctic  snows  attains  to  a  higher 
latitude  than  any  other  known  (luadrui)ed,  and  dwells 
indeed  l)y  i)reference 

"  In  tlirilliiig  rogions  «»rtlii(!\-iil)lM'tl  itc." 

Its  soutliern  linut  aj)pears  to  be  somewhere  ahout  the  fifty- 
fifth  parallel.  It  is  well  known  at  York  Factory,  on  tfif 
southern  shore  of  Hudson's  IJay,  more  '  >ecially  duriiiii; 
the  autumn  season,  to  which  it  is  liable  '  drifted  dur- 
ing sunnner  from  the  northward  on  the  i..c.  It  is  a  truly 
ice-haunting  and  maritime  sjjecies,  and  occurs  along  a  vast 
extent  of  sliore  over  the  Arctic  regions,  never  enteriiif: 
into  wooded  countries  except  by  accident  during  the  pro- 
valence  of  great  mists,  nor  showing  itself  at  more  than 
a  hundred  miles'  distance  from  the  sea.  Indeed  it  rarely 
travels  inland  more  than  a  few  miles,  because  it  is  a  stroiii: 
and  persevering  swinnner,  and  probably  feels  conscious 
that  when  removed  from  its  accustomed  element  it  loses 
the  advantage  of  its  own  peculiar  and  most  })owert'ul 
locomotive  energies.  The  Polar  bear  is  -well  known  in 
(ireenland,  Spitzbergen,  and  Xova  Zembla,  and  was  met 
with  by  Captain  Parry  among  the  North  (Georgian  Islands. 
It  seems,  liowever,  to  decrease  in  numbers  to  the  west- 
ward  of  Melville  Island.  In  proof  of  this  it  may  be  men- 
tioned that  Dr  Richardson  met  with  none  between  the 
mouths  of  the  Mackenzie  and  Coppermine  Rivers ;  anil 

•  Travels  on  the  JMis.-iOuri  and  Arkansaw,  edited  by  Mr  Rpi's- 
London,  1811. 

•f  Tlio  sporimen  in  the  Edinburgli  Mnseum  (of  which  I  lui\o 
imhlishcd  a  coloiired  representation  on  the  twenty-first  phUe  ot  tin' 
first  volume  of  my  "Illustrations  of  Zoolog-y")  was   killed  on  tlie 

1)lains  at  Carlton  Mouse  in  its  second  year.  Its  claws  are  iihuk. 
[n  a  mature  condition  these  weapons  are  white,  and  necklaces  made 
of  them  are  much  prized  by  tlie  Indian  warriors  as  proofs  of  prowess 


tend*;  soiitli. 
)  iiiliiibit  the 

t  least  as  I'ar 

1  in  tlu'  last- 

siicli  woody 

s  and  grassy 

much  loniicr 
ur  account  oi 
the  white  or 
iralists.  'I'his 
to  a  hiii;hcr 
1,  and  dwells 


)out  tlie  fifty, 
[ictorv,  on  tin- 
L'cially  during; 
■  drifted  dur- 
It  is  a  truly 
rs  along  a  vast 
ever  enterinp^ 
I  ring  the  prc- 
at  ni'ire  than 
ideed  it  rurdy 
LMt  is  a  stronu' 
eels  conscious 
anient  it  loses 
nost  powerful 
veil  known  in 
,  and  was  met 
Drgian  Islands. 
i  to  the  west- 
;  may  be  men- 
e  between  the 
;  Rivers;  ami 

•d  by   ISIr  Uoes. 

)t'  which  I  luv\e 
iiist  plate  (if  til"' 
IS  killed  on  the 
claws  arc  lilack. 
i  necklaces  made 
jroofs  of  prowess 


giADitt  i>i:i>s. 


:V2'i 


the  Ks(|uiinau\  informed  Ciptain  Franklin  tliat  wlute 
Ix'ars  very  rari'ly  visited  the  coast  to  the  westward  of  the 
Macken/ie.  Along  the  Asiatic  shores,  on  tile  other  hand, 
they  are  not  recorded  as  occurring  to  the  eastward  of  tlie 
Tgchukot/koi  Noss."  Neither  were  tliey  seen  by  Cap- 
tain Ileechey  during  liis  recent  voyage  to  the  ley  Cape, 
although  their  skins  a])pear  to  have  been  jjrocured  amongst 
other  peltry  from  the  natives  on  the  coast  of  Ilotham's 
Iidet.  Kot/ebue's  Sound. t  It  thus  appears  that  this  great 
maritime  species  occurs  very  generally  along  all  the  fro/en 
shores  within  the  Arctic  Circle,  with  the  exception  of  about 
thirty-five  degrees  of  longitude  on  either  side  of  Point 
Heechey,  in  which  it  is  comparatively  rare;  and  that  in 
Hudson's  Hay,  and  along  the  nortiiern  coast  of  Labrador, 
and  the  nearer  portions  of  Kast  and  West  (ireeidand,  it 
occurs  not  unfre()ueiuly  six  or  eight  degrees  to  the  south 
of  the  Arctic  Circle.:;: 

We  deem  it  unnecessary   to  desci  he  the  external  cha- 
racters or  appearance  of  this  familiarly-known  animal. || 

Passing  over  tlie  racoon  {Prorj/on  lotur),  the  American 
badger  {Mr/cs  Lahr^idoriii),  the  wolverene  i^iinht  lii.scna), 
the  common  weasel  {Mn.sfr/ti  vn/</iiris),  the  ermine  or 
^toiit{M.<'rniineit),  the  vison-weasel  (J/,  ri.son),  the  pine- 
martin  (.1/.  ))ifn't(:\),  the  pekan  or  fisher  (J/.  Cdnailoi.si.s), 
and  tile  Hudson's  liay  skunk  [Mcpliiti.s  Amcrirnttn),  we 
shall  devote  a  page  to  the  history  of  the  American  otters. 

The  Canada  otter  {Liitra  CiinadvjDiis  of  Sal)inev;J)  fre- 
quents tlie  neiglibourhood  of  falls  and  rapids  during  the 
winter  season;  and,  when  its  accustomed  liaunts  are  frozen 
up,  it  will  travel  a  great  way  over  the  snow  in  searcii  of 
open  water.     In  its  food  and  lial)its  it  bears  a  close  re- 

*  Arctic  Zc)()l()j:;y,  vol.  i.  p.  •!2. 

•\  Narrative  of  a  Voyage  to  the  Pacific  and  Belirin^'s  Straits,  to 
c(M)|)erate  with  the  Polar  Ivvneditions.      London,  llilH. 

:{:  Edinburgh  Review,  No.  I(M),  p.  ;J44. 

II  One  of  the  finest  specimens  in  Knro[)e  is  preserved  in  the 
Edinhiirjrh  Collej<;e  Mnseuni.  It  was  shot  during  one  of  Sir  Ed- 
ward Parry's  expeditions,  and  was  transmitted  to  Professor  Janie- 
stm  by  order  of  the  Lords  of  the  Admiralty.  —  For  anecd(»tes  illns- 
tratin"^  tlu  history  and  habits  of  the  Polar  bear,  we  beg-  to  refer 
llie  reader  to  the  First  Volume  of  the  Edinburgh  Cabinet  Library, 
entitled  "•  Discovery  and  Adventure  in  the  Polar  Seas  and  Re- 
^Mons." 

§  Appendix  to  Franklin's  First  Journey,  p.  Hbo. 


326 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


semblance  to  the  European  species,  but  it  may  be  (lis. 
tinguished  by  the  fur  on  the  belly  being  of  the  same  shin- 
ing brown  colour  as  that  on  the  back.  It  is  also  a  much 
larger  animal,  and  has  a  proportionately  shorter  tail. 

The  sea-otter  {Lutra  marina)  belongs  to  the  subgenus 
Erihj/dra  of  Dr  Fleming.*  It  exhibits  the  manners  rather 
of  a  seal  than  of  a  land  animal.  It  resides  chiefly  in  the 
water ;  and,  according  to  Pennant,  has  been  sometimes 
met  with  more  than  a  hunilred  leagues  from  shore.  It  is 
distinguished  from  the  fresh-water  species,  ammg  other 
characters,  by  the  larger  size  and  greater  strength  of  its 
fore  })aws.  The  fur  varies  in  beauty  accoiillng  to  the  age 
and  condition  of  the  animal.  Those  in  highest  estimation 
have  the  belly  and  throat  interspersed  with  brilliant  silver 
hairs,  while  the  other  parts  consist  of  a  thick  black  coat 
with  a  silky  gloss  of  extreme  fineness. 

We  have  now  to  notice  the  wolves  and  dogs  of  America, 
I'he  former  may  be  called  wild-dogs,  and  some  of  the 
latter  are  little  better  than  semi-domesticated  wolves,  AV'e 
shall  not  here  enter  into  the  question  of  the  specific  iden- 
tity or  distinction  of  the  European  and  American  species. 
The  large  brown  wolf,  described  by  Lewis  and  Clarke 
as  inhabiting  not  only  the  Atlantic  countries  but  the 
borders  of  the  Pacific  and  the  mountains  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Columbia  Kiver,  appears  to  form  the  closest  ap- 
proximation to  the  wolf  of  the  Scandinavian  Alps  and 
the  Pyrenees.  It  is  not  found  on  the  Missouri  to  the 
westward  of  the  Platte.  Wolves  were  extremely  nume- 
rous in  some  of  the  countries  traversed  by  our  overland 
expeditions.  They  varied  greatly  in  colour ;  some  being 
pure  white,  othtrs  totally  black,  but  the  greater  propor- 
tion were  characterized  by  a  mixture  of  gray,  white,  and 
brown.  Dr  Richardson  is  of  opinion  that,  however  colour- 
ed, they  possess  certain  characters  in  common  in  which 
they  differ  from  the  European  race.  "  On  the  Barren 
Grounds,  through  which  the  Coppermine  River  flows,  1 
had  more  than  once  an  opportunity  of  seeing  a  single  wolf 
in  close  pursuit  of  a  rein-deer ;  and  I  witnessed  a  chase 
on  Point  Lake  when  covered  with  ice,  which  terminated 
in  a"  fine  buck  rein-deer  being  overtaken  by  a  large  white 
wolf,  and  disabled  by  a  bite  in  the  flank.     An  Indian, 

•  Philosophy  of  Zooloj^y,  vol.  ii.  p.  187. 


t  may  be  dis. 
le  same  shin- 
s  also  a  much 
trter  tail, 
the  subgenus 
lanners  rather 
chiefly  in  the 
en  sometimes 
shore.  It  is 
am  jng  other 
:rer.gth  of  its 
liig  to  the  age 
est  estimation 
)rilliant  silver 
k  black  coat 


;s  of  America, 
some  of  the 
wolves.  Vic 
specific  iden- 
jrican  species. 
s  and  Clarke 
:ries  but  the 
a  the  vicinity 
e  closest  ap. 
ian  Alps  and 
ssouri  to  the 
emely  nume- 
our  overland 
;  some  being 
eater  propor- 
y,  white,  and 
wever  colour- 
ion  in  which 
ti  the  Barren 
liver  flows,  1 
;  a  single  wolf 
essed  a  chase 
h  terminated 
a  large  white 
An  Indian, 


'WW 
mil, 


wmmm 


r^gm 


^^ 


i:^. ,  i- 


9' 


''..:"' 


.f  f    I 


^JSt' 


QUADUUPKDS. 


329 


%, 


-fv.^ 


who  was  concealed  on  the  horders  of  the  lake,  ran  in  and 
cut  the  deer's  throat  with  his  knife,  the  wolf  at  once  re- 
linquishing; his  prey  and  sneaking  off.  In  the  chase  the 
poor  deer  urp;ed  its  flight  hy  great  hounds,  which  for  a 
time  exceeded  the  s])eed  of  the  wolf  hut  it  sto])j)ed  so 
frequently  to  gaze  on  its  relentless  enemy,  that  the  latter, 
toiling  on  at  a  '  long  gallop,'  with  its  tongue  lolling  out 
of  its  mouth,  gradually  came  up.  After  each  hasty  look, 
the  poor  deer  redouhled  its  efforts  to  escape;  l)ut,  either 
exhausted  hy  fatigue,  or  enervated  hy  fear,  it  hecame, 
just  hefore  it  was  overtaken,  scarcely  ahie  to  keep  its  feet."* 
A  wolf  seldom  fails  to  attack,  and  can  easily  run  down  a 
fox,  if  it  perceives  it  at  any  consider<d)le  distance  from 
its  cover,  and  it  hears  it  off  in  its  mouth  without  any  ap- 
parent diminution  of  its  speed,  if  it  he  at  that  time  ])er- 
ceived  and  pursued  hy  the  hunters.  Though  cruel  and 
bloodthirsty,  and  even  at  times  hold  in  search  of  food 
when  severely  pressed  hy  famine,  the  wolf  is  on  the  whole 
a  timid  and  fearful  animal.  A  handkerchief  tied  to  a 
tree,  or  a  distended  hladder  dangling  in  the  air,  is  sufficient 
to  keep  a  whole  herd  at  a  resj)ectful  distance.  However, 
(luring  I)r  iiichtti'dson's  residence  at  Cumherland  House 
in  IH'20,  a  wolf  which  had  heen  for  some  time  ])rowIing 
about  the  fort,  and  was  sup})Osed  to  have  heen  drivn  off 
by  a  wound  of  a  musket-hall,  returned  after  nigiitfall 
and  carried  off  a  dog  from  among  ahout  fifty  of  his 
companions,  all  of  whom  howled  most  lamentahly,  but 
wanted  courage  to  rescue  their  unfortunate  comrade.  In 
the  northern  countries  of  America  many  wolves  suffer 
dreadfully  from  famine,  and  not  unfrequently  perish  of 
hunger  during  severe  seasons. 

The  individual  here  figured  from  the  fine  specimen 
in  the  Edinburgh  Museum,  was  found  lying  dead  on  the 
snow  near  Fort  Franklin.  It  had  been  observed  prowding 
ai)out  the  Indian  huts  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fort  a  few 
(lays  preceding ;  and  its  extreme  emaciation  and  the 
emptiness  of  its  interior  showed  clearly  that  it  had  (Ued 
from  hunger.  Captain  I^yon  describes  the  wolves  of 
.Melville  Peninsula  as  comparatively  fearless.  One  after- 
noon a  fine  dog  strayed  a  short  way  ahead  of  its  master^ 
when  five  wolves  made  a  sudden  and  unexpected  rush, 
and  devoured  it  in  so  incredibly  short  a  time,  that  before 

*  Fauna  Boreali-Aniericana,  vol.  i.  p.  <>3. 


330 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


Mr  Elder,  who  witnessed  the  attack,  could  reach  the 
scene  of  action,  the  dog  had  disap})eared,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  lower  part  of  a  leg.  They  frequently  came 
alongside  the  frost-hound  ship,  and  one  night  hroke  into 
a  snow-hut,  and  carried  away  a  hrace  of  Esquimaux  dogs, 
which  ajipeared  to  have  made  a  considerable  resistance, 
as  the  ceiling  was  sprinkled  with  blood  and  hair.  The 
alarm  was  not  given  till  the  mortal  strife  had  terminated, 
and  when  they  were  fired  at,  one  of  the  wolves  was  ob- 
served to  take  up  a  dead  dog  in  his  mouth,  and  to  set  off 
with  it  at  an  easy  canter,  although  its  weight  was  sup- 
posed to  be  equal  to  his  own.* 

The  dusky  wolf  described  in  Godman's  Natural  His- 
tory is  regarded  as  a  distinct  species  by  INIr  Say  ;t  and 
the  black  variety  is  also  considered  by  some  authors  as 
entitled  to  specific  separation.  The  not  unfrequent  oc- 
currence of  black  individuals  in  the  litter  of  the  gray  and 
brown  wolves,  seems,  however,  rather  to  point  out  the 
probability  of  this  tlifference  of  colour  being  merely  an 
accidental  variation. 

But  the  prairie  wolf  {Canis  latrans)  is  undoubtedly  a 
distinct  and  well-defined  species.  It  hunts  in  packs,  and 
is  an  animal  of  great  swiftness.  It  occurs  on  both  sides 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains ;  but  is  less  numerous  on  the 
banks  of  the  Columbia  than  in  the  plains  of  the  iVIissouri 
and  Saskatchawan.  When  the  hunters  on  the  banks  of 
the  latter  river  discharge  their  muskets  at  any  kind  of 
game,  great  numbers  of  the  prairie  wolf  are  sometimes 
seen  to  start  from  holes  in  the  earth,  and  keep  a  look-out 
with  a  view  to  secure  the  offals  of  the  slaughtered  animal. 
With  the  exception  of  the  prong-hornetl  antelope  then 
is  probably  no  swifter  quadruped  in  America  than  the 
prairie  wolf. 

These  fierce  and  unreclaimed  animals  conduct  us  na- 
turally  to  the  domesticated  tribes  of  the  canine  race,  of 
which  there  are  several  remarkable  varieties  in  the  north- 
ern  regions  of  America.  We  can  here  afford  space  only 
for  a  few  hues  regarding  the  Hare  Indian,  or  Mackenzie 
Biver  dog  {Canis  familiaris,  xar.  layopus).  The  front 
figure  of  the  annexed  cut  represents  his  external  aspect. 

This  domestic  variety,  as  far  as  Dr  Richardson  could 

*  Lyon's  Private  Journal. 

-f-  Long's  Expedition  to  the  Rocky  Mountains. 


iiltl  reach  the 
ith  the  excep- 
iquently  came 
^ht  broke  into 
juimaux  clogs, 
ble  resistance, 
ul  hair.  The 
1(1  terminated, 
olves  was  ob- 
ancl  to  set  off' 
ght  was  sup- 

I  Natural  His- 
,Ir  Say  ;t  and 
me  authors  as 
mfrequent  oc- 
f  the  gray  and 
point  out  the 
ing  merely  an 

undoubtedly  a 
5  in  packs,  and 
s  on  both  sides 
imerous  on  the 
»f  the  iVIissouri 
n  the  banks  of 
t  any  kind  of 
are  sometimes 
<eep  a  look-out 
i;htered  animal 
antelope  there 
erica  than  the 

conduct  us  na- 
canine  race,  of 
;s  in  the  north- 
Ford  space  onlv 
,  or  Mackenzie 
fs).  The  front 
eternal  aspect, 
chardson  could 


mtams. 


1 


,  •<;  '■  ■ 


iff'      V 


»  '  o" 


'  \^ 


,«tv^J 


\  r^a::: 


«?.>*. 


•^ 


:.-  '#' 


*v. 


-* 


,  i 


M 


'i^-' 


I    . 


I  ■'■'.•*, 


i  \M 


QUAimrPEOs. 


3^:i 


learn,  appeared  to  he  cultivated  only  by  the  Hare  Indians, 
unci  other  tribes  f're<juenting  the  borders  of  the  (ireat 
Slave  Lake,  and  the  banks  of  the  Mackenzie.  It  is  too 
small  and  sii<:;ht  to  serve  as  a  beast  of  draught  or  other 
burden,  and  is  conse(juently  used  solely  in  the  chase.  It 
is  an  animal  of  a  playful  ami  att'ectionate  disposition, 
easily  conciliated  by  kind  less.  It  has  a  mild  counte- 
iianic,  a  denuire  exj)ression,  a  small  head,  slender  niuz/le, 
erect  t  ars,  and  eyes  somewhat  ol)ii(jue.  Its  lep;s  are  rather 
slender,  the  feet  broad  and  hairy,  the  tail  bushy,  and  for 
the  most  part  curled  over  the  riij;ht  hip.  it  may  be  cha- 
racterized as  bearinj:;  the  same  near  relation  to  the  prairie 
wolf  as  the  Ks(juimaux  do;i;  does  to  the  i^reat  p;ray  wolf 
of  America.  Indeed  ihe  whole  of  the  canine  republic  in 
these  parts  of  America  are  of  very  wolfish  habits.  For 
example,  the  larj^er  dotjs  which  our  exj)edition  purchased 
at  I'Ort  Franklin  for  the  purjjoses  of  draujj!;ht,  were  in  the 
iiahit  of  pursuin<i;  the  Hare  Indian  dogs  in  order  to  de- 
vour them  ;  but  the  latter  fortunately  far  outstripped  the 
others  in  speed.  A  young  puppy,  which  l)r  Ilichardson 
purchased  from  the  Hare  Indians,  became  greatly  at- 
tached to  him,  and  when  about  seven  months  old,  ran  on 
tile  snow,  by  the  side  of  his  sledge,  for  f)()0  miles,  without 
sutlering  from  fatigue.  "  During  this  march  it  frecjuent- 
ly,  of  its  own  accord,  carried  a  small  twig  or  one  of  my 
tnittens  for  a  mile  or  two ;  but  although  very  gentle  in 
manners,  it  showed  little  aptitude  in  learning  any  of  the 
arts  which  the  Newfoundland  dogs  so  speedily  ac(juire  of 
fetching  and  carrying  when  ordered.  This  dog  was  kill- 
ed and  eaten  by  an  Iiulian  on  the  Saskatchawan,  who 
pretended  that  he  mistook  it  for  a  fox." 

The  flesh  of  dogs  is  much  esteemed  by  the  Canadian 
voyagers,  and  by  several  of  the  Indian  tribes.  The  Chi- 
pewyans,  however,  who  ieem  themselves  descended  from 
a  (log,  hold  the  practice  of  using  it  as  an  article  of  food  in 
i,Teat  abhorrence. 


There  are  many  species  of  fox  in  North  America.  The 
American  red  fox  {Canis  fuli'us)  inhabits  the  woody 
districts  of  the  fur-countries,  and  from  thence  about  8()()() 
of  the  skins  are  annually  im])orted  into  England.  Pennant, 
and  many  other  authors  of  last  century,  regarded  the  spe- 
cies as  identical  with  the  common  European  kind ;  from 
uhich,  however,  it  was  shown  by  M.  Palisot  de  Beauvois 


:i:u 


NATrnAL  HISTORY. 


to  he  quite  distinct.  The  American  species  is  distiii- 
j^'uished  by  its  longer  and  tiner  fur,  and  more  hrilliaru 
colouring.  Its  cheeks  are  rounder — its  nose  thicker, 
shorter,  and  more  truncated — its  eyes  are  nearer  to  each 
other,  and  its  feet  are  in  general  mucli  more  woolly  be. 
neath.  The  red  fox  has  a  finer  brush,  and  is  altogether 
a  larger  animal  than  the  Kuroj)ean  ;  yet  it  does  not  pos- 
sess the  continuous  speed  of  the  latter ;  it  seems  to  ix- 
haust  its  strength  almost  at  the  Hrst  burst,  and  is  then 
overtaken  without  nmch  difficulty,  either  by  a  mountid 
huntsman  or  a  wolf.  The  cross  fox  (C  decussfitu-s), 
and  the  black  or  silver  fox  {C.  (ir(ft'nt(itu.s),Rrv  considered 
by  some  as  distinct  s])ecies,  while  others,  probably  with 
greater  correctness,  view  them  in  the  light  of  local  or  ac- 
cidental varieties,  liesides  these  we  may  name  as  Ameri. 
can  species,  the  kit-fox  {C.cineren.dryciifdtit.s),  and  the 
Arctic  fox,  commonly  so  called  (C.  lagopuii).  The  latter 
occurs  also  in  the  Old  World. 

Several  kinds  of  lynx  inhabit  North  America ;  but  wc 
shall  not  here  enter  on  their  historv. 


We  cannot,  liovever,  so  sliglitly  pass  the  beaver  of  these 
northern  regions  {Castor  fiber,  Anu  ricanus),  one  of  the 
n.ost  valuable  a"d  noted  oi  quadrupeds.  Itsdescri])tion  i> 
contained  )\  aimost  every  book  of  natural  history;  and 
we  shall  therefore  conliue  ourselves  in  this  place  to  such 
particulars  .;  illustr?  "c'  its  general  habits.  As  the  history 
of  this  animal  given  by  Hearne  has  been  characterized  hy 
competent  authority  as  the  most  accurate  which  has  yet 
been  presented  to  the  public,  we  shall  here  abridge  it  for 
the  benefit  of  our  readers. 

As  the  beaver  not  only  furnishes  an  excellent  food,  bu; 
is  highly  valuable  for  the  sake  of  its  skin,  it  naturally  at- 
tracted  the  particular  attention  of  the  Jast-named  traveller. 
The  situation  of  beaver-houses  was  found  to  be  various. 
When  the  animals  are  numerous,  they  inhabH  lakes,  ponds, 
and  rivers,  as  well  as  those  nar^'ow  i  reeks  which  connect  tlu 
lakes  together.  Generally,  however,  they  prefer  flowin;: 
water-,  probably  on  account  of  the  advantages  presented 
by  the  current  in  transportir.g  the  niaterials  of  their  dwell- 
ings. They  also  prefer  deepish  water,  no  doubt  because 
it  affords  a  better  protection  from  the  frost.  It  is  when 
they  build  in  small  creeks  or  rivers,  the  waters  of  which 
are  liable  to  dry  or  be  drained  of^,  that  they  manifest  that 

5 


OS  is  (listiii- 
lore  brilliant 
lose  thicker, 
carer  to  cacli 
re  woolly  be 

is  alto<;etlu'r 
loes  not  ])()s. 
seems  to  ex- 

aiul  is  tlun 
)y  a  inountLMl 

(iccHs-sntti's), 
re  considered 
)robably  with 
t"  local  or  ac- 
me as  Ameii- 
fM.v),  and  tile 
|.     The  latter 

3rica ;  but  we 


eaver  of  these 

),  one  of  tile 

description  i^ 

history  ;  and 

place  to  such 

As  the  history 

aracteri'/ed  by 

which  has  yet 

abridge  it  for 

lent  food,  but 
naturally  at- 
me<l  traveller, 
to  be  various. 
t  lakes,  ponds, 
ch  connect  t\\>^ 
^  refer  flowing 
iges  presented 
of  tbeir  dwell- 
loubt  because 
t.  It  is  when 
,ters  of  wbicii 
manifest  that 


QUADRUPKHS. 


33.i 


beautiful  instinct  with  which  Providence  has  gifted  them, 
— the  formation  of  dams.  These  differ  in  shape  according 
to  their  j)articular  localities.  When  the  water  has  little  mo- 
tion the  dam  is  almost  straight ;  when  the  curreiU  is  con- 
siderable it  is  curved,  with  its  convexity  towards  the  stream. 
The  materials  made  use  of  are  drif -wood,  green  willows, 
birch,  and  poplars ;  also  nnul  and  stones  intermixed  in  such 
a  maimer  as  must  evidently  contribute  to  the  strength  of 
the  dam  ;  but  there  is  no  particular  method  observed,  ex- 
cept that  the  work  is  carried  on  with  a  regular  sweep,  and 
all  the  parts  are  made  of  ecpial  strength.  "  In  places  which 
have  been  long  frcMjuented  by  beavers  undisturbed,  their 
(lams,  by  frecjueiit  repairing,  become  a  solid  bank,  capable 
of  resisting  a  great  force  both  of  ice  and  water  ;  and  as  the 
willow,  poj)lar,  and  birch,  generally  take  root  and  shoot  up, 
they  by  degrees  form  a  kind  of  regular  planted  hedge, 
which  I  have  seen  in  some  places  so  tall,  that  birds  have 
huilt  their  nests  among  the  branches."* 

Tile  beaver-houses  are  built  o^'  the  same  materials  as 
the  dams  ;  and  seldom  contain  more  than  four  old,  and 
six  or  eight  young  ones.  There  is  little  order  or  regula- 
rity in  their  structure.  It  frcfjuently  hap|)ens  that  some 
of  the  larger  houses  are  found  to  have  one  or  more  parti- 
tions, but  these  are  only  i)arts  of  the  main  building  left 
by  the  sagacity  of  the  beavers  to  support  the  roof;  and 
the  apartments,  as  some  are  pleased  to  consider  them, 
have  usually  no  communication  with  eacli  other,  except 
t)y  water.  Those  travellers  wbo 'assert  that  the  beavers 
have  two  doors  to  their  dwellings,  one  on  the  land  side, 
and  the  other  next  the  water,  manifest,  according  to 
Ilearne,  even  a  greater  ignorance  of  the  habits  of  these 
animals,  than  those  who  assign  to  them  an  elegant  suite 
of  apartments, — for  such  a  construction  would  reiuler 
their  houses  of  little  use,  either  as  a  protection  from  their 
enemies,  or  as  a  covering  from  the  winter's  cold. 

It  is  not  true  that  beavers  drive  stakes  into  the  ground 
when  building  their  houses;  they  lay  the  pieces  cross- 
wise and  horizontal;  neither  is  it  true  that  the  wood- 
work is  first  finished  and  then  plastered  ;  for  both  houses 
and  dams  consist  from  the  foundation  of  a  mingled  mass 
of  mud  and  wood,  mixed  with  stones  when  these  can  be 
procured.     They  carry  the  mud  and  stones  between  their 

*  Hearne's  Journey  to  the  Northern  Ocean. 


336 


NAXrRAIi  HISTORY. 


fore  paws,  antl  the  wood  in  their  mouths.  They  always 
work  in  the  night  and  with  gre.t  ex])(;diti()n.  Tliey  eover 
their  houses  late  every  autum  '  with  fresh  mud,  which 
freezes  when  tiie  frosts  set  in,  and  hecomes  ahnost  as  hard 
and  sohd  as  stone  ;  and  thus  neither  wolves  nor  wolverenes 
can  (hsturl)  their  re})ose.  When  walking  over  their  work, 
and  especially  when  ahout  to  ijlunge  into  the  water,  they 
sometimes  give  a  peculiar  flap  witli  their  tiils,  which  has 
no  douht  occasioned  the  erroneous  heHef  tha^  they  use 
these  organs  exactly  as  a  mason  uses  his  t;owel.  Now  a 
tame  })eaverwill  flap  hy  the  fireside  whe>'e  there  is  notiiing 
hut  dust  and  ashes  ;  and  it  therefore  only  uses  the  trowel 
in  eoniinon  with  the  water-wagtail,- -in  other  words,  the 
quadruped  as  well  as  the  hird  is  characterized  hy  a  pecu- 
liar  motion  of  its  caudal  extremity. 

The  food  of  this  animal  consists  chiefly  of  the  root  of 
the  plant  called  Niiphdr  luti-mu,  which  hears  a  reseni. 
hiance  to  a  cabhage-stalk,  av.d  grows  at  the  hottom  of 
lakes  and  rivers.     It  also  gnaws  the  hark  of  hirch,  pop. 
lar,  and  willow  trees.     In  sunnner,  however,  a  more  va- 
ried herhage,  witli  the  addition  of  berries,  is  consumed. 
When  the  ice  breaks  up  in  the  s])ring,  the  heavers  always 
leave  their  house-,  and  rove  about  until  a  little  before  the 
fall  of  the  leaf,  when  they  return  again  to  their  old  habita- 
tions, and  lay  in   their  winter  stock  of  wood.     Ilearne 
gives  the  following  account  of  some  tame  beavers  which  be- 
longed to  him: — "  In  cold  weather  they  were  kept  in  my 
own  sitting-room,  where  they  were  the  constant  com. 
panions  of  the  Indian  womoi  and  children,  and  were  so 
fond  of  their  company,  that  when  the  Indians  were  ah- 
sent  for  nny  considerable  time,  the  beavers  discovered  grca* 
signs  of  uneasiness,   and  on  their  return  showed  e(iii:il 
marks  of  pleasure,  by  fondling  on  them,   cr-'wling  into 
their  laj)s,  lying  on  their  backs,  sitting  erect  like  a  scpiirrel, 
and  behaving  Hke  children  who  see  their  parents  but  sel- 
dom.     In  general,  during  the  winter,  they  lived  on  t!u 
same  food  as  the  women  did,  and  were  remarkably  fond 
of  rice  and  plum  pudding  ;  they  would  eat  partridges  and 
fresh  venison  very  freely,  hut  I  never  tried  them  with 
fish,  though  I  have  heard  they  will  a^^  times  prey  on  them 
In  fact  there  are  few  graminivorous  animals  that  may  not 


be  brought  to  be  cam.  vorous. 


*     According  to  Kaliu 


Ibid. 


QUADKIPEDS. 


33' 


L'hcy  always 

Tlicy  cover 
mud,  which 
most  as  hard 
r  wolverenes     | 
r  their  work,    | 

water,  they  ' 
s,  which  has  '• 
liai;  they  use 
wel.  Now  a 
ere  is  nothing 
ses  the  trowel 
jr  words,  tlie 
jd  hy  a  pecu- 

of  the  root  of 
lears  a  reseiii- 
;he  hottom  of 
)t'  hirch,  pop. 
er,  a  more  va- 
is  consumed, 
heavers  always 
ittle  hetore  the 
leir  old  hahita- 
/ood.     Hcarnt 
vers  which,  he- 
ere  kept  in  my 
constant  com- 
^,  and  were  so 
dians  were  ab- 
jscovered  grca' 
showed  e(iu'.a 
er"wlvnjj:  into 
.  like  a  s(iuirrel. 
)arents  hut  sel- 
^y  lived  on  tlu 
"niarkahly  fond 
partridges  ami 
ied  them  witb 
's  prey  on  theui. 
.Is  that  may  w)\ 
ding  to  Kalui 


u 


Major  Iloderfert  of  New  York  liad  a  tame  heaver  ahove 
halt' a  year  in  liis  house,  wIutc  it  .vent  ahout  (juite  loose 
Hkeadog.  'J'he  major  gave  him  hread,  and  sometimes 
/?Wi,  of  which  he  was  said  to  have  l)een  givedy.  lie  got 
as  much  water  in  a  howl  as  he  wanted,  and  all  the  rags 
and  soft  things  he  could  meet  with  he  dragged  into  a  cor- 
ner, where  he  was  accustomed  to  sleej),  and  made  a  hed 
of  them.  The  house  cat  on  one  occasion,  happening  to 
produce  kittens,  took  ])Osstssion  of  the  heaver's  hed  with- 
out his  offering  her  any  oj)position.  When  the  cat  went 
out  the  heaver  often  took  a  kitten  hetween  his  ])aws,  and 
held  it  to  his  hreast,  as  if  for  the  pur})ose  of  kee[)ing  it 
warm  ;  hut  as  soon  as  the  proper  parent  returned  he  de- 
livered up  the  offspring.* 

Anoth.er  well-known  amphihious  quadruped  of  America 
s  the  musk-rat,  or  mus([uash  (Fihcr  Zi/x'f/iiru.s).  Its  fur 
lesemhles  that  of  the  heaver,  hut  is  shorter ;  the  down  is 
I'oarser  and  less  valuahle,  and  the  more  lengthened  part  of 
•he  coat  is  weaker  and  not  so  shilling.  It  is  easily  wetted 
ifter  death,  although  it  resists  the  water  well  when  the 
niimal  is  alive.  The  musk-rat  measures  al)out  fourteen 
inches^  exclusive  of  the  tail,  which  is  eight  or  ten  inches 
long.  It  has  a  strong  smell  of  nuisk,  especially  in  the 
'spring.  Its  flesh,  however,  is  eaten  hy  the  Indians;  it 
ri'semhles  fiahhy  pork.  This  species  extends  from  the 
■birtieth  to  ahout  the  seventieth  degree  of  north  lati- 
tude. ^'  Their  favourite  ahodes  are  small  grassy  lakes  or 
^wamps,  or  the  grassy  horders  of  slow-flowing  streams, 
vhere  there  is  a  muddy  hottom.  They  i'ccd  chiefly  on 
vegetable  matters,  and  in  northern  districts  principally 
'11  the  roots  and  tender  shoots  of  the  hulrush  and  reed 
mace,  and  on  the  leaves  of  various  carices  and  acpiatic 
-'ra.sses.  The  sweet  flag  {Aroru.s  ca/dnia.s),  of  whose 
■oot.s,  according  to  Pennant,  they  are  very  fond,  does  not 
-row  to  the  northward  of  Lake  Winipeg.  In  the  sum- 
mer they  frequent  rivers,  for  the  purpose,  it  is  said,  of 
'mling  upon  the  fresh-water  nmscles.  \Ve  often  saw 
mail  collections  of  nmscle-shells  on  the  hanks  of  the  larger 
nvejs,  which  we  were  told  had  heen  left  hy  them."t 

Before  the  frosts  set  in,  the  nmsquash  builds  a  house 


*  Kiihn'><  Tnivols  in  North  America. 

j-  Fauna  Uoreaii-Americaua,  vol.  i.  p.  117. 


X 


;i38 


NATtJnAL  HISTORY. 


of  mud,  of  a  conical  form,  with  a  sufficient  base  to  elevate 
the  chamber  above  the  level  of  the  water.  It  generally 
chooses  a  spot  covered  with  long  grass,  which  it  incorpo- 
rates with  the  mud.  It  uses  no  kind  of  composition  with 
which  to  agglutinate  these  materials ;  but  there  is  usually 
a  dry  bed  of  grass  deposited  within  the  chamber.  The 
entrance  is  under  water.  Dr  Richardson  informs  us  that 
when  ice  forms  over  the  surface  of  the  swamp,  the  mus- 
quash makes  breathing-holes  through  it,  and  protects 
them  from  the  frost  by  a  covering  of  mud.  During  se- 
vere winters,  however,  these  holes  are  fre{iuently  frozen 
up,  and  many  die.  Hats  are  manufactured  from  the 
skins  of  these  animals ;  and  for  that  purpose  between  four 
and  live  hundred  thousand  are  imported  into  Great  Bri- 
tain every  year. 

Several  species  of  meadow  mice  and  lemmings  (Cien. 
Arvicola  and  Georj/chuf,-)  inhabit  the  northern  regions. 
Our  restricted  hmits,  however,  do  not  admit  of  our  par- 
ticularizing  these  tribes. 

An  animal  equalling  the  Norway  rat  in  size,  and  men- 
tioned by  Lewis  antl  Clarke  under  the  name  of  rat  of  tlk 
Rocky  Mountains,  was  described  in  the  Zoological  Jour- 
nal,* and  is  now  known  as  the  Rocky  Mountain  neotoina 
(A^.  Driniiniondii,  Rich.).  It  is  of  a  yellowish-brown 
colour  above,  white  beneath,  with  a  tail  exceeding  the 
length  of  the  body,  and  bushy  at  the  extremity.  Accord- 
ing to  Mr  Drummond,  it  makes  its  nest  in  the  crevices  of 
rocks,  seldom  appearing  in  the  daytime.  It  is  a  very 
destructive  animal  in  stores  and  encampments.  It  gnaws 
furs  and  blankets  to  pieces,  and  Mr  Drummond  having' 
placed  a  pair  of  stout  EngUsh  shoes  on  a  shelving  rock, 
found  on  his  return  that  they  had  been  minced  into  frai- 
ments  as  fine  as  sawdust. 

Though  neither  the  black  nor  brown  rat,  nor  the  coin- 
mon  mouse  of  Europe,  are  native  to  America,  they  no"v 
occur  by  importation  in  many  parts  of  the  New  World 
The  American  fieldmouse  {Mas  leucopus)  becomes  ai! 
inmate  of  the  dwelling-houses  as  soon  as  they  are  erecteii 
at  any  trading  port.  In  the  northern  districts  it  extend: 
across  the  whole  country  from  the  shores  of  Hu<lson  < 
Bay  to  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia.     "  The  gait  and  pry- 


t 
in  Li 

npy ; 

tiinil 


•  No,  12,  March  1«28,  p.  517. 


QUADnUPKDS. 


339 


ise  to  elevate 
It  generally 
1  it  incorpo- 
losition  with 
ire  is  usually 
imber.     The 
bnns  us  that 
ip,  the  mu8- 
and  protects 
During  se- 
uently  frozen 
red  from  the 
between  four 
to  Great  Bri- 


nmings  ((ien. 
them  regions, 
it  of  our  par- 

5ize,  and  men- 
le  of  rat  of  tk 
lological  Jour- 
intain  neotoiiia 
sllowish-browii 
exceeding  tk 
lity.     AcconU 
the  crevices  of 
It  is  a  very 
nts.     It  gnaw^ 
.imond  having 
shelving  rook. 
,uced  into  frat;- 

|;,  nor  the  com- 
rica,  they  non 
New  World 
L)  becomes  as 
Ihey  are  erecteil 
Iricts  it  extends 
I'S  of  Hudson? 
!  gait  and  pry- 


ing actions  of  this  little  creature,"  says  Dr  Richardson, 
"  when  it  ventures  from  its  hole  in  the  dusk  of  the  even- 
ing, are  so  much  like  those  of  the  English  domestic 
mouse,  that  most  of  the  European  residents  at  Hudson's 
Bay  have  considered  it  to  be  the  same  animal,  altogether 
overlooking  the  obvious  differences  of  their  tails  and  other 
peculiarities.  The  American  fieldmouse,  however,  has  a 
hahit  of  making  hoards  of  grain  or  little  pieces  of  fat, 
which  I  beheve  is  unknown  of  the  European  domestic 
mouse ;  and  what  is  most  singidar,  these  hoards  are  not 
tbrnied  in  the  animal's  retreats,  but  generally  in  a  shoe 
left  at  the  bedside,  the  pocket  of  a  coat,  a  nightcap,  a  bag 
hung  against  a  wall,  or  some  similar  place."*  This  spe- 
lies  may  be  regarded  as  the  representative  of  the  Mu^ 
f^i/lvaticus  of  Europe.  Its  most  inveterate  foe  is  the 
ermine  or  stoat,  which  pursues  it  even  into  the  sleeping- 
apartments. 

Many  marmots  inhabit  North  Amcrica.t     Of  these, 
however,  we  shall  here  make  mention  of  only  a  single 
«;pecies,  the  wistonwish  Oi  })rairie  marmot  {Arctomi/f;  Lu~ 
(iovicUiniis).     This  animal  is  called  prairie  dog  by  Ser- 
jzeant  Ciass;};  and  Lieutenant  Pike,||  and  it  is  also  the 
barking-squirrel  of  Lewis  and  Clarke.§     The  entrance 
to  the  burrows  of  this  species  descends  at  first  vertically, 
and  then  continues  downwards  in  an  oblitpie  direction. 
They  occur  at  intervals  of  twenty  feet,  and  when  nume- 
rous they  are  called  prairie  dnij  rilldye-s.     The  animals 
delight  to  sport  alwut  their  own  doors  in  pleasant  wea- 
ther.    On  the  ap})roach  of  danger,  they  either  retreat  to 
their  holes  or  sit  for  a  tim*  Marking  and  flourishing  their 
tails,  or  sitting  in  an  erect  position,  as  if  to  reconnoitre. 
When  shot  by  the  hunter,  they  generally  tumble  into  their 
burrows,  and  are  thus  not  easily  laid  hold  of,  either  dead 
or  aUve.     They  pass  the  winter  in  a  state  of  torpidity,  and 
lay  up  no  provisions.     The  sleeping-apartments  consist  of 

*  Fauna  Boreali-Americana,  vol.  1.  p.  142. 

t  For  a  (letailod  account  of  tlicse  animals  sec  Mr  Sabinc'.s  paper 
in  Linn.  Trans,  vol.  xiii. ;  the  Ajjpcndix  to  Franklin's  Fir.^^t  Jour- 
ney; Dr  Harlan's  Fauna  Americana;  Dr  Godnian's  American  Na- 
tural History;  Griffith's  Animal  Kingdom;  Pallas's  Xovaj  Species 
Quadrupedium  e  Gliriuni  Ordine  ;  Pennant's  Arctic  Zoolojjy ;  aud 
Dr  Richardson's  work  so  <Ve(uu>ntly  above  referred  to. 

X  Jo\irnal  of  the  Travels  of  a  Corps  of  Discovery,  &c. 

ll  Travels  on  the  Missouri  and  Arkansavv. 

■^  Travels  to  the  Pacific  Oceau. 


:j  10 


XATl'RAL  HISTORY 


neat  globular  cells  of  fine  dry  grass,  with  a  small  aper- 
ture at  the  to]), — the  whole  so  compactly  formed  that  it 
may  almost  be  rolled  over  the  fioor  without  being  da- 
maged. The  warning  cry  of  this  animal  bears  some  re- 
semblance  to  the  hurried  barking  of  a  small  dog.* 

The  s(juirrel-tribe  are  also  very  numerous  in  the  coun- 
tries now  under  consideration.  The  chickaree  or  Hud- 
son's JJay  squirrel  {S<'iurii.s  Ilinisonius,  Pennant)  inha- 
bits the  forests  ot  white  spruce-trees  which  cover  so  vast 
.1  {)ortion  of  the  fur-countries.  It  extends  as  far  to  the 
south  as  the  middle  states  of  America,  and  spreads  north- 
wards to  the  utmost  regions  of  the  spruce-forests  which 
cast  their  sombre  shade  as  high  as  the  sixty-ninth  paral- 
,'cl.  It  burrows  at  the  root  of  the  largest  trees,  and  sel- 
dom stirs  abroad  during  cold  or  stormy  weather ;  hut 
even  in  the  dei)th  of  winter  it  may  be  seen  sporting  anioiiti 
ihe  branches  whenever  the  snow  is  brightened  by  a  gleam 
of  sunshine.  When  pursued  it  makes  great  lea[)s  for  a 
time  from  tree  to  tree,  but  ere  long  seeks  a  favourable  op- 
[)ortunity  of  descending  into  a  burrow.  However,  it  sel- 
dom voluntarily  quits  its  own  particular  tree.  Duririi: 
the  winter  season  it  collects  the  spruce-cones,  and  carry- 
ing them  to  the  outskirts  of  its  burrow,  it  picks  out  tin 
seeds  beneath  the  snow. 

Of  the  flying-scjuirrels  of  America  we  may  mention  the 
species  (or  variety?)  discovered  by  i\Ir  Drummond  on 
the  ]{ocky  Mountains  {rteroniys  Sahrinus,  var.  li.  ulp't- 
II Ks).  It  inhabits  dense  pine-forests,  and  rarely  venture 
i'rom  its  retreats  except  during  the  night. 

Passing  over  the  sand-rats  (genus  Geoviys,  Hafines(juet)  \ 
and  the  genus  Aplodont'm  of  Richardson,;};  we  shall 
give  a  short  account  of  the  Canada  porcupine  {^Hijxtm 
jiUo.su.s  of  Catesby,  H.  dorsata,  I.inn.).  This  singular | 
animal  is  distributed  over  a  considerable  extent  of  Anu- 
rica,  from  the  thirty-seventh  to  the  sixty-seventh  dc}j;ra 
of  north  latitude.  I)r  Harlan  informs  us  that  it  makes  i:> 
dwelling-place  beneath  the  roots  of  hollow  trees.  It  (ii-- 
likes  water,  is  cleanly  in  its  habits,  sleeps  much,  ami 


*  Say's  Notes  to  Long's  Expedition  to  the  Rocky  Mountain 
"Y  AuR-iitan  Monthly  Ma^.  lor  U5I7)  p.  45. 
Ijl  Zoolofjical  Journal,  January  ItU'J. 


thi 
iour 
the  ( 
their 


cl 


\ 


QIADIUPKnP. 


•SH 


small  aper- 
•med  that  it 
It  bein<5  da- 
'ars  some  re- 
log.* 

in  the  coun- 
ree  or  Ilud- 
tmant)  inha- 
covcr  so  vast 
as  tar  to  the 
preads  nortli- 
forests  whicli 
-ninth  paral- 
trees,  and  sel- 
weather;  hut 
lorting  anioim 
led  by  a  gleam 
at  leaps  for  a 
favourable  op- 
owever,  it  sel- 
tree.     Durini: 
es,  and  carry- 
picks  out  till 

ay  mention  tlu' 
3rummond  on 
var.  Ji-  ulpi- 
rarelv  ventun- 


Uaiines(iueti 
ni,X  we  shall 
pine  {Hjjfiti'u 

'lliis  singular  I 
xtent  of  Aiiit- 
seventh  degrr.l 
;hat  it  makes  it' 

trees.     It  <ii^-| 
eps  much,  aiiJI 


)cky  Moimtiiin-^' 


I'ceds  principally  on  the  bark  and  leaves  of  Piniis  Cana- 
densis and  lAlia  (jiabra.  It  has  been  known  to  strip  a 
irce  entirely  of  its  leaves,  and  is  also  fond  of  sweet  apples 
and  Indian  eorn.  When  discovered  on  the  i2;r()imd  this 
animal  does  not  sirive  to  get  out  of  the  way  ;  hut,  on  Ik-- 
ing  approached,  it  immediately  s{)rea(ls  the  s))ines  near 
the  tail  over  the  whole  of  the  back.  The  female  brings 
forth  aimually  three  or  four  young  at  a  birth,  after  a  ges- 
tation ol"  forty  days. 

In  the  fur-countries  the  porcupine  is  most  numerous 
in  sandy  districts  covered  with  Pinns  lianksiana,  on  tht' 
hark  of  which  it  delights  to  feed,  as  well  as  on  that  of  the 
larch  and  spruce-fir,  and  the  buds  of  the  various  kinds  of 
willows.  The  Indian  dogs  do  not  decline  to  attack  this 
"fretful"  creature,  and  they  soon  kill  it,  though  not  with- 
out injury  to  themselves  ;  for  its  (juills,  which  it  never 
tails  to  erect  when  attacked,  are  dangerous  from  the  mi- 
nute teeth,  directed  backwards,  with  which  they  are  fur- 
nished. The  points  are  extremely  sharp,  and  are  no  sooner 
lodged  beneath  the  skin  of  an  assailant  than  they  begin  to 
bury  themselves,  and  finally  produce  death  by  transfixing 
some  vital  organ.  These  spines  are  detachable  by  the 
slightest  touch,  or,  as  some  say,  by  the  will  of  the  ani- 
mal, and  soon  till  the  mouths  of  the  dogs  by  which  it  is 
attacked,  and  seldom  fail  to  kill  them,  unless  carefully 
picked  out  by  the  Indian  women.  \\'olves  also  some- 
times die  from  the  same  cause.*  Its  flesh  tastes  like  flabby 
pork,  and  though  by  no  means  agreeable  io  European  pa- 
lates, is  much  relished  by  the  Indians.  The  quills  are 
variously  dyed,  and  are  used  in  the  working  of  different 
ornaments  and  articles  of  hunting-apparel. 

There  are  four  species  of  hare  in  North  America.  \\\ 
^hall  give  a  short  history  and  description  of  each. 

1st,  The  American  hare,  commonly  so  called  {Lcjnia 
American  us,  Erxleben).  This  species  bears  a  great  re- 
semblance to  the  European  rabbit.  It  seldom  weigh«< 
more  than  four  pounds.  In  winter  it  is  covered  with  a 
thick  coat  of  fine  long  fur,  externally  of  a  pure  white  co- 
lour, except  a  narrow  border  on  the  posterior  margins  of 
the  ears,  and  round  their  tips,  and  about  one-third  down 
their  anterior  margins,  which  are  blackish-hrown,  on  ae- 


•  Fauna  Boreali-Ameriiana,  vol.  i.  p.  'Jl'). 


3VZ 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


count  of  tlic  (lark  roots  of  tlie  hair  ])einj:;  visible.  In 
summer  the  fur  of  the  upper  parts  is  sliininji;  blackish- 
«2^ray  at  the  roots,  but  tinged  towards  the  tips  with  yel- 
lowish-brown and  black.  There  is  a  large  proportion  oi 
Ixlack  on  the  back,  and  the  resulting  colour  of  tlie  surface 
is  a  dark  umber-brown,  mixed  with  yellowish-brown.  A 
white  circle  surrounds  the  eye.  The  white  colour  com- 
mences between  the  fore-legs,  and  extending  over  the  un- 
der parts,  predominates  on  the  extremities.  The  sidtv 
are  of  a  dull,  pale,  yellowish-brown.  The  cars  are  nearly 
naked  during  this  season.  The  tail  is  white  below,  mixed 
above  with  gray  and  brown.  This  species  is  common  in 
woody  districts  all  over  the  continent  of  North  America.  It 
a})Ounds  on  Mackenzie  River  as  high  as  the  sixty-eightli 
jnirallel ;  but  it  a})pears  to  be  replaced  by  the  larger  spe- 
cies  both  on  the  "  Barren  (Grounds"  to  the  eastward,  and 
on  the  extensive  plains  through  which  the  ^Missouri  and 
Saskatchawan  take  their  far-flowing  courses.  In  summer 
it  eats  grass  and  other  vegetables,  and  in  winter  willow. 
l)ark  forms  a  principal  pprt  of  its  sustenance.  It  never  bur- 
rows,  and  is  much  preyed  on  both  by  man  and  beast.  The 
furs  of  this  species  are  imported  into  Britain  under  the 
name  of  rab})it-skins.  Twenty-five  thousand  have  been 
token  at  a  trading-post  in  Hudson's  Bay  in  a  single  season 

2d,  The  Polar  hare  { Lepusglacialis,  Leach).  Dr  Leach 
appears  to  have  first  discriminated  this  species  from  tlk 
varying  hare.  It  inhabits  both  sides  of  BafiSn's  Bay,  and 
is  common  over  the  north-eastern  districts  of  America. 
It  is  not  known  to  advance  southwards  beyond  the  fifty- 
eighth  parallel,  and  does  not  occur  in  wooded  countries 
However,  it  is  often  seen  in  the  vicinity  of  thin  clunip.- 
of  spruce-fir.  It  digs  no  burrow,  but  seeks  the  natural 
slielter  of  large  stones.  The  winter-fur  of  this  species  i^ 
of  a  snow-white  hue,  even  to  the  roots.  It  is  denser  and 
of  a  finer  quality  than  that  of  the  preceding.  Summer 
sjjecimens  killed  in  MelviDe  Island  (lat.  75°)  had  the 
hair  of  the  back  and  sides  of  a  grayish-brown  colour 
towards  the  points.  The  weight  of  this  species  varit> 
from  seven  to  fourteen  pounds.  The  flesh  is  whitish  ami 
excellent,  being  much  superior  in  flavour  to  that  of  tlii 
American  hare,  and  more  juicy  tlian  the  Alpine  hart 
of  Scotland. 

3d,  The  prairie  hare  {^Lcpus   Virginianuft,  Harlan) 
The  fur  of  this  species  is  intermediate  in  fineness  ano 


QUADRUPEDS. 


3't.'} 


y  visible.     In 
linjj;  blackish- 
tips  with  yel- 
proj)ortion  ol 
of  tile  surlaco 
sh-brown.    A 
e  colour  coin- 
5  over  the  un. 
s.     The  si(k'.< 
cars  are  nearly 
I  below,  mixed 
is  common  in 
:h  America.  It 
e  sixty-eightli 
he  larj^er  s})e- 
eastward,  and 
Missouri  and 
3.    In  summer 
vinter  willow. 
It  never  bur- 
nd  beast.   The 
tain  under  tlk 
md  have  been 
I  single  season 
;h).    Dr  Leach 
jcies  from  the 
ffin's  Bay,  and 
ts  of  America, 
^ond  the  tifty- 
)ile(l  countries 
)f  thin  cluni])s 
iks  i:;h.e  natural 
this  species  b 
t  is  denser  and 
ng.     Summer 
75°)  had  the 
-broAvn  colour 
species  varieh 
is  whitish  and 
to  that  of  tliu 
i  Alpine  hari 

mu.t,  Harlan). 
n  fineness  anu 


flcnsity  between  that  of  the  two  species  just  noticed.  It 
is  common  on  the  north  and  soutii  branches  of  the  Siis- 
katchawan,  and  on  the  plains  of  the  Missouri,  as  well  as 
on  those  of  the  Columbia  Uiver.  It  fre(iuents  open  (hs- 
tricts  and  clum))s  of  wood,  and  its  general  habits  resemble 
those  of  the  European  hare.  This  hare  is  pure  wiiite  in 
winter,  with  the  exception  of  the  borders  of  the  ears, 
which  are  of  a  wood-brown  or  fawn-colour.  In  summer. 
Uie  head,  neck,  back,  shoulders,  and  outer  parts  of  tlie 
legs  and  thighs,  are  ot  a  iead-colour.  The  lower  ])arLs 
are  white,  with  a  tinge  of  lead-colour.  In  the  month  of 
March  the  summer-fur  ap})ears  in  comi)inati()n  with  the 
spotless  garb  of  winter,  and  is  characteristic  from  tlie 
middle  of  April  to  the  middle  of  November,  after  which 
die  snowy  dress  again  prevails.  This  species  can  leap 
twenty-one  feet  at  a  single  spring.  It  weighs  from  seven 
to  eleven  pounds. 

kh,  The  little  chief  hare  {Lepus  {Lagomi/fi)  princep.'i. 
Rich.).  This  is  a  smaU  animal  of  a  blackish-brown  colour 
above,  and  gray  beneath.  Its  head  is  short  and  thick, 
and  its  ears  are  rounded.  It  inhabits  the  Rocky  ^loun- 
tiiins  between  the  fiftieth  and  sixtieth  degrees,  and  was 
killed  by  Mr  Drummond  near  the  sources  of  the  p]lk 
River.  The  favourite  localities  of  this  species  are  heaps 
of  loose  stones,  through  the  interstices  of  which  it  makcvS 
its  way  with  great  facihty.  It  is  often  observed,  towards 
sunset,  mounted  on  a  stone,  and  calling  to  its  mates  in  a 
slirill  whistle.  It  does  not  appear  to  excavate  burrows, 
but  when  approached  by  the  hunter  it  utters  a  feeble  cry, 
resembhng  that  of  a  rabbit  in  distress,  and  instantly  dis- 
appears among  the  stones.  This  cry  of  fear  is  re})eated 
by  its  neighbours,  if  it  has  any,  and  is  so  deceptive  as  to 
a{3pear  at  a  great  distance,  while  in  fact  the  creatures  are 
dose  at  hand.  The  little  chief  hare  (so  called,  we  under- 
stand, from  its  expressive  Indian  appellation,  huckathra' 
kak-yawzce)  bears  a  resemblai.ee  to  the  Alpine  pika  de- 
scribed by  Pallas  and  Pennant  ar  inhabiting  Kamtschatka 
aiul  the  Aleoutian  Islands.  It  is  a  diminutive  animal,  not 
measuring  more  than  six  or  seven  inches  in  length,  and 
differs  from  the  true  hares  in  tlie  number  of  its  teeth.  It 
also  wants  a  taiL 

The  next  group  to  which  we  have  to  call  the  attention 
of  tlie  reader  is  one  of  great  interest,  from  tlie  size,  value, 


.144. 


NATURAL  IIISTOHY. 


and  general  importance  in  the  economy  of  nature,  of  the 
s])ecies  by  which  it  is  constituted, — we  mean  the  deer, 
tribe  of  America.  Of  these  about  lialf-a-dozen  (hffereni 
kinds  inhal)it  the  fur-countries.  As  in  the  otlier  nume- 
rous groups,  we  must  here  restrict  ourselves  to  the  his. 
tory  of  a  very  few  species. 

Tile  genus  Cerrii.s  includes  all  those  ruminating  ani- 
mals wiiich  are  furnished  with  antlers.  Two  species  arc 
conunon  to  the  northern  parts  of  both  continents;  five  or 
six  belong  to  North  America ;  four  to  America  south  of 
the  e(iuator;  and  above  a  dozen  to  India,  China,  and  the 
ardiipelagoes  of  the  south-east  of  Asia.*  Of  these  some 
inhabit  marshy  forests,  others  the  wooded  shores  of  rivers 
or  the  sea,  while  others  again  })refer  the  bleak  sides  and 
i)arren  valleys  of  mountain-districts.  The  species  vary 
occasionally  in  colour,  and  are  subject  to  those  changes  of 
constitution  to  which  all  animals  are  more  or  less  liable, 
and  which  physiologists  have  distinguished  by  the  names 
of  albinism  and  mvluni.sm, — the  first  applied  to  the  white, 
the  second  to  tlie  black  varieties  of  colour.  It  has  alst) 
])een  remarked  as  rather  a  singular  circumstance,  that  the 
white  varieties  occur  more  fre(|uently  in  the  equatorial  re- 
gions than  in  the  colder  countries  of  the  north, — a  proof, 
perhaps,  that  the  intensity  of  light  and  heat  are  but  se- 
condary causes  in  the  production  of  animal  colours.t 

The  elk  or  moose-deer  {Cervi(,s  alces)  is  a  gigantic  ani. 
mal,  of  a  heavy  and  rather  disagreeable  aspect.  It  is 
easily  recognised  by  the  great  height  of  its  limbs,  the 
shortness  of  its  neck,  its  lengthened  head,  projecting  muz- 
zle,  and  short  upriglit  mane.  When  full  grown  it  mea- 
sures above  six  feet  in  height.  The  fur  is  long,  thick, 
and  very  coarse,  of  a  hoary-brown  colour,  varying  ac- 
cording to  age  and  the  season  of  the  year.  The  antlers 
are  very  broad  and  solid,  plain  on  the  inner  edge,  but 
armeil  externally  with  numerous  sharp  points  or  shoots, 
which  sometimes  amount  to  twenty-eight.  A  single  ant- 
ler has  been  known  to  weigh  fifty-six  pounds. 

The  neck  of  the  elk  is  much  shorter  than  its  head. 


*  I'or  tlie  natural  liistoi y  and  description  of  many  of  the  mo'-t 
rt'*iuukal)lo  of  the  A.siatie  speiies,  see  "Historical  and  Descrii)tui' 
Atooiint  of  Briti.sh  India,"  (bJn--  Nos.  VI.,  VII.,  and  VIll.,  nt 
F''dinburt;h  Cabinet  Library)  vol.  iii. 

-|-  De.snioulinb. 


iturc,  of  tile 
n  the  (Icer- 
ien  (lifferent 
jtlicr  nuint'- 
to  the  his. 

linating  ani- 
0  species  arc 
ents ;  five  or 
rica  south  of 
ina,  and  the 
f  these  soiTif 
ores  of  rivers 
ak  sides  and 
species  vary 
se  changes  of 
)r  less  liahlf. 
iiy  the  names 
to  the  white. 

It  has  also 
ance,  that  the 
^ciuatorial  re- 
th, — a  proof, 
t  are  but  se- 
colours.t 
gigantic  ani- 
Lspect.     It  is 
ts  Umbs,  the 
)jecting  muz- 
own  it  mea- 
s  long,  thick, 

varying  ac- 

The  antlers 

ler  edge,  but 

Its  or  shootvS, 

A  single  ant- 

s. 
uin  its  head. 


ny  of  the  mo^l 
md  Descriptu 


QIADIM  PKDS. 


:U5 


and 


Vlll.,   I 


which  gives  it  almost  a  deformed  appearance,  though 
such  a  formation  is  m  fact  renilered  necessary  by  the 
;,Teat  weight  of  its  antlers,  which  could  not  be  so  easily 
supported  upon  a  neck  of  greater  length.  Xotwithstand- 
m^  the  length  of  its  nmzzle,  it  collects  its  food  with  diffi- 
culty from  the  ground,  being  obliged  either  greatly  to 
spread  out  or  to  bend  its  limbs.  From  this  results  its 
propensity  to  browse  upon  the  tender  twigs  and  leaves  of 
trees, — a  mode  of  feeding  which  the  keei)ers  of  the  French 
menagerie  found  it  very  difficult  to  alter  in  the  individual 
under  their  charge.  The  upper  part  of  the  mouth  is  pro- 
longed almost  in  the  form  of  a  small  trunk,  and  furnished 
u'ith  muscles,  which  give  it  great  flexibility  of  move- 
ment, and  enable  it  rai)idly  to  collect  its  food.  In  sum- 
mer, during  the  prevalence  of  the  gadflies  in  the  Scan- 
flinavian  peninsula,  it  plunges  into  marshes,  where  it 
often  lies  day  and  night,  with  nothing  above  water  but  its 
liead.     It  is  even  said  to  browse  upon  the  aquatic  plants 


3  Ui 


NATUnAL  IIISTOIIV. 


beneath  tho  surface,   makiiiji;  at  t!ic  Fiaiiie  time  a  louil 
blovviiif^  sound  tlirou}j;h  its  nostrils. 

The  American  elks  Hve  in  small  troops  in  swamj)) 
places.  Their  gait,  according  to  I)r  Harlan,  is  generally 
a  trot,  and  they  are  less  active  than  most  other  deer. 
The  old  individuals  iose  their  horns  in  .January  and  Fe- 
bruary, and  the  young  in  April  and  May.  In  regard  to 
their  geograjjhical  distribution,  they  appear  to  have  been 
formerly  found  as  far  south  as  the  Ohio.  At  present  they 
occur  only  in  the  more  northern  j)arts  of  the  linited 
States,  and  beyond  the  (ireat  Lakes.  Captain  Franklin 
met  v»ith  several  during  his  last  expedition  feeding  on 
willows  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie,  in  lat.  u'.i  . 
Although  they  are  said  to  form  small  herds  in  Canada, 
yet  iti  the  more  northern  parts  they  are  very  solitary, 
more  than  one  being  seldom  seen,  except  during  the  rut. 
ting-season,  or  when  the  female  is  accom})anied  by  her 
fawns.  The  scse  of  hearing  is  remarkably  acute  in 
this  species,  an.  it  is  described  as  the  sliyest  and  most 
wary  of  tiie  deer-tribe.  It  is  an  inoffensive  animal,  un- 
less when  irritated  by  a  wound,  when  its  great  strengtli 
renders  it  formidable,  or  during  ruttini^time,  when  it 
will  kill  a  dog  or  a  wolf  by  a  single  blow  ol  its  fore-foot. 
It  is  much  sought  after  by  the  American  Indians,  both 
on  account  of  the  flesh,  which  is  palatable,  and  th( 
hides,  with  which  they  in  part  manufacture  their  canoes, 
and  several  articles  of  dress.  The  gr.nii  of  the  flesh  i.s 
coarse,  and  it  is  tougher  than  that  of  any  other  kind  of 
venison.  In  its  flavour  it  rather  resembles  beef.  The 
nose  is  excellent,  and  so  is  the  tongue,  aUhough  the  latttr 
is  by  no  means  so  fat  ai'd  delicate  as  that  of  the  rein- 
deer. The  male  elk  sometimes  weighs  from  a  thousand 
to  twelve  hundred  pounds. 

The  rein-deer  {Cerims  tarandus)  is  widely  distributed 
over  the  northern  parts  of  both  the  Old  and  New  World. 
It  has  long  been  domesticated  in  Scandinavia,  and  is  an 
animal  of  incalculable  importance  to  the  i  aplander.  \Vt 
are  less  acquainted  with  the  nature  and  a e tributes  of  tlie 
iVmerican  species ;  but  we  shall  here  follow  the  prevail- 
ing opinion,  and  consider  it  identical  wuth  that  of  tlu' 
north  of  Europe  and  of  Asia.  There  appear  to  be  two 
varieties  of  rein-deer  in  the  fur-countries.  One  of  these 
is  confined  to  the  woody  and  more  southern  districts,  the 
other  retires  to  the  woods  only  during  the  winter  season 


QUAHUUPriKS. 


:u: 


time  a 


louii  iiiid  passes  tlie  summer  either  in  the  Barren  (irounds  or 

ilon^'  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea.  Hcarne's  description 
,Hpj)Ues  to  the  Utter  kind,  while  the  accounts  given  by  liie 
earlier  French  writers  on  Canada  relate  to  the  tbrmer. 

The  reiu-deer  of  the  Barnn  Grounds  is  of  small  sta- 
ture, and  so  light  o\  weight  that  a  man  may  carry  a  full- 
;rown  doc  across  his  shoulder.  The  bucks  aie  of  larger 
dimensions,  and  weigh,  exclusive  of  the  ort'al,  from  [)() 
to  l.'JO  pounds.  The  skin  of  the  rein-deer  is  light,  and 
heiii.;  closely  covered  with  hair,  it  forms  a  suitable  and 
highly-prized  article  of  winter-apparel.  '*■  The  skins  of 
the  young  deer  make  the  best  dresses,  and  they  should  l)e 
killed  for  that  i)urpose  in  the  months  of  August  or  Sep- 
tember, as  after  the  latter  date  the  hair  becomes  too  long 
iUid  brittle.  The  prime  parts  of  eight  or  ten  deer-skins 
make  a  comt)lc  :e  suit  of  clodiin-^  for  a  grown  person, 
which  is  so  impervious  to  the  coM,  tliat  with  tlie  addition 
of  a  blanket  of  the  same  mat<'rial.  any  one  so  clothed  may 
bivouac  on  the  snow  with  safety,  and  even  with  com- 
fort, in  tlie  most  intense  cohl  of  an  Arctic  winter's  night."* 
l)r  Richardson  is  of  opinion  that  the  flavour  of  the  rein- 
deer flesh  is  suj)erior  to  that  of  the  finest  English  nmtton. 
However,  the  animal  nmst  be  in  prime  condition,  as  its 
lean  state  is  comparatively  worse  than  that  of  other  crea- 
tures. l*('mniic(in  is  formed  by  pouring  one-third  par' 
of  melted  fat  over  the  flesh  of  the  rein-deer  after  it  is  dried 
;uid  pounded.  Of  all  the  deer-tribe  of  America  this  spe- 
cies is  the  most  easily  ajjproached,  and  immense  numbers 
;ire  slaughtered  for  the  use  of  tiie  Indian  famihes. 

The  other  variety  of  rein-deer  to  which  we  have  alluded 
above  is  called  the  woodland  caribou.  It  is  much  larger 
than  that  of  the  Barren  (Jrouniis,  has  smaller  horns^  and 
is  greatly  inferior  as  an  article  of  diet.  The  most  re- 
markable peculiarity  in  the  habits  of  tliis  animal  is,  that 
it  travels  to  the  southward  in  the  spring.  It  crosses  the 
Nelson  and  the  Se  em  Rivers  in  vast  herds  during  the 
month  of  May,  and  spends  the  summer  on  the  low  marshy 
ihores  of  James'  Bay,  returning  inland,  aiid  in  a  north- 
erly direction,  in  September.t 


in  swampy 
is  gener  illy 
other  deer, 
ary  and  Fe- 
in regard  to 
:o  have  been 
present  they 
the  United 
ain  Franklin 
1  feeding  on 
in  lat.    (.!)  . 
Is  in  Canada, 
I'ery  solitary, 
iring  the  rut- 
anied  by  her 
,bly  acute  in 
est  and  most 
3  animal,  uu- 
:;reat  strength 
ime,  when  it 
its  fore-foot. 
Indians,  both 
ible,  and   the 
,'  their  canoes, 
f  the  flesh  is 
ither  kind  of 
es  beef.     Th'^ 
)ugh  the  latttT 
t  of  the  rein- 
m  a  thousand 

'ly  distributed 
New  World. 
ia,  and  is  an 
)lander.  Wi 
■ibutes  of  tk 
V  the  prevail- 
h  that  of  the 
ear  to  he  two 
One  of  tlie?e 
1  districts,  the 
A-inter  season. 


*  Fauna  Boreali-Amoricaiia,  vol.  i.  p.  242. 

-|-  For  the  history  of  the  wapiti  (T.  siro/i(/>/loct'ros),  the  hlack- 
tdiled  deer  (C.  inucrotis,  Say),  and  tlie  lonj^-taiied  deer  (('.  Icuch- 
rus,  Douglas),  we  mu.st  refer  to  the  writings  of  the  various  travel- 
lers and  systematic  authors  named  in  the  course  of  tiiese  chapters. 


;ns 


VATIHAI,  IIISTdHV 


Passing  over  tliv  ])r()iig-h(»rnc(l  anUlope  {A.  funijir. 
Siiiitli),un  inhal)itaiit  of  tlie  plains  of  tlie  Missouri  and  Sas- 
katcliawan,  rcnuirkahK'  for  its  ixtremc  swiftness,  we  sha.l 
ilevotc  u  few  pages  to  the  natural  history  of  the  wild  .  //ff/* 
and  ijout  of  the  Uocky  JNIountains,  two  of  the  most  rc- 
niarkahle  and  important  of  the  native  (piadrupeds  of  North 
Ameriea.     ISee  tile  annexed  IMate. 

The  Koeky  Mountain  sheep  (Or?.v  nioitffntd,  Desm.  and 
Rich.)  inhahits  the  range  from  which  it  derives  its  nanu . 
from  its  tjorthern  termination,  or  at  least  irom  latitudt 
OH',  to  the  fortieth  degree  of  north   latitude.     It  also 
dwells  among  many  of  t'^e  elevated  and  eraggy  ridgt- 
which  intersect  the  country  lying  to  the  westward,  Ix- 
tween  the  j)rincipal  range  an(l   the  shores  of  the  l*aciti( 
Ocean  ;  but  it  tloes  not  appear  to  have  advanced  beyond 
the  eastern  declivities  of  the  Uocky  Mountains,  and  it 
conse(juently  does  not  occur  in  any  of  the  hilly  tracts 
nearer  to  Hudson's  Bay.     The  favourite  i'eeding-placcs 
of  this  species  are  "  grassy  knolls,  skirted  by  craggy  rocks, 
to  which  they  can  retreat  when  pursued  by  dogs  or  wolves. 
Its  flesh,  when  in  season,  is  stated  by  ^Ir  Drummond  to 
be  quite  delicious, — as  being  far  superior  to  that  of  an\ 
of  the  deer-species,  and  even  as  exceeding  in  flavour  tlu 
finest  Enghsh  mutton.     This  showy  animal  exceeds  tlit 
Asiatic  argali  in  size,  and  is  nmch  larger  than  the  largest 
varieties  of  the  domestic  breeds.     The  horns  of  the  male 
are  very  large.     The  ears  are  of  moderate  size.     'J'h( 
facial  Hne  is  straight,  and  the  general  form  of  the  animal. 
l)eing,  as  it  were,  intermediate  betwixt  that  of  the  sheep 
and  stag,  is  not  devoid  of  elegance.     The  hair  is  like  tliat 
of  the  rein-deer,  short,  fine,  and  flexible,  in  its  autunii: 
growth;  but  as  the  winter  ad\ anises,  it  becomes  coarst 
dry,  and  brittle,  though  still  soft  w  the  toucli :  it  is  n*^- 
cessarily  erect  at  this  season,  from  its  extreme  closeness. 
The  lind)s  are  covered  with  shorter  hairs.     In  regard  to 
colours,  the  head,  buttock,  and  posterior  part  of  the  ab- 
domen, are  white ;  the  rest  of  the  body,  and  the  neck, 
are  of  a  pale  or  dusky  wood- brown.     A  deeper  and  nion 
lustrous  brown  prevails  on  the  fore-part  of  the  legs.    Tlu 
tail  is  dark-brown,  and  a  narrow  brown  line,  extendin* 
from  its  base,  divides  the  buttock,  and  unites  with  tlu 
brown  colour  of  the  back.     The  colours  reside  in  the  ends 
of  the  hair,  and  as  these  are  rubbed  off  during  the  ])r(i- 
gress  of  winter,  the  tints  become  paler. 


{A.  ftirrijir. 
souri  and  Sas- 
iicss,  wv  slia,l 
tlio  wild .  Iiicii 
the  most  i<  - 
pt'ds  of  North 

ui,  Desni.  anrl 
•ivt's  its  naiiR. 
from  latitude 
udc.  It  also 
t'ratigy  rid^t- 
vestward,  hi- 
of  the  Pac'itir 
anced  beyond 
ntaiiis,  and  i; 
le  hilly  tracts 
('eedin<j;-plaot> 

cra<i;|zy  rocks. 
)<>;s  or  wolves, 
)rummond  to 
o  that  of  ai)\ 
in  flavour  tlii 
al  exceeds  tlu 
lan  the  largest 
IS  of  the  mak 
te  size.  The 
of  the  animal. 
;  of  the  sheep 
air  is  like  that 
in  its  autunii: 
!Coines  coar9( 
ich :  it  is  nf- 
3me  closenes?. 

In  regard  tc 
art  of  the  ab- 
ind  the  neck, 
3per  and  mon 
the  legs.  The 
ne,  extendi  Ha- 
lites with  tlu 
ide  in  the  ends 
iring  the  ])r(i- 


■\^' 


y^J^-y 


QUADHIPKDS. 


351 


-oeu 

Ini'lici. 

♦) 

{) 

;i 

A 

0 

•> 

2 

lU 

1 

I 

2 

:i 

The  horns  of  the  female  are  much  smaller,  and  nearly 
erect,  having;  but  a  slight  curvature,  and  an  inclination 
backwards  and  outwards.* 

The  following;  are  the  dimensions  of  an  old  Rocky 
Mountain  ram,  killed  on  the  south  branch  of  tiie  Mac- 
kenzie, and  now  in  the  Museum  of  the  Zoological  Society 
of  London. 

Len^'-th  of  the  lioad  aii(l  body,  «... 
Ht'ij^ht  at  tin-  fore  slioiiklcr,     .... 

Leiiti;tli  of  tail,  ...... 

Length  of  horn,  measured  aloiig^  tlie  eurvature, 
Cireiiinference  of  horn  at  its  base,     . 
Distance  from  lip  to  lip  of  llie  horns, 

These  animals  collect  in  flocks  consisting  of  from  three  to 
thirty,  the  young  rams  and  the  females  herding  together 
(luring  the  winter  and  spring,  while  the  old  rams  form  se- 
parate flocks,  except  during  the  month  of  December,  which 
is  their  rutting-season.  "  The  ewes  bring  forth  in  .June 
or  .July,  and  then  retire  with  their  lambs  to  the  most  in- 
accessible heights.  Mr  Drummond  informs  me,  that  in 
the  retired  parts  of  the  mountains,  where  the  hunters  had 
seldom  penetrated,  he  found  no  difficulty  in  approaching 
the  llocky  Mountain  sheep,  which  there  exhibited  the 
simplicity  of  character  so  remarkable  in  the  domestic 
species ;  but  that  where  they  had  been  often  fired  at  they 
were  exceedingly  wild,  alarmed  their  companions  on  the 
ii{)proach  of  danger  by  a  hissing  noise,  and  scaled  the 
rocks  vith  a  speed  and  agility  that  baffled  pursuit.  He 
lost  several  that  he  had  mortally  wounded,  by  their  retir- 
ing to  die  amongst  the  secluded  precipices."t 

When  the  first  mission  was  established  in  California, 
nearly  two  centuries  after  the  discovery  of  that  country, 
Fathers  Piccolo  and  de  Salvatierra  found  '^  two  sorts  of 
dee)'  that  we  know  nothing  of ;  we  call  them  sheep  be- 
cause they  somewhat  resemble  ours  in  make.  The  first 
sort  is  as  large  as  a  calf  of  one  or  two  years  old  ;  its  head 
is  much  like  that  of  a  stag,  and  its  horns,  which  are  very 
large,  are  like  those  of  a  ram ;  its  tail  and  hair  are  speckled, 
ami  shorter  than  a  stag's,  but  its  hoof  is  large,  round,  and 
cleft,  as  an  ox's.  I  have  eaten  of  these  beasts  ;  their  flesh 
is  very  tender  and  delicious.     The  other  sort  of  sheep, 

*  The  Kdinhurgh  College  Museum  contauis  a  fine  specimen  of 
tlie  female  Uocky  Mountain  shec|). 
t  Fauna  Bureali-Aniericana,  vol.  L  p.  273. 

7 


:i:>2 


N.\  rr!<Ai,  iii'«;n>K\ 


some  of  which  arc  white,  and  others  hiack,  differ  less  from 
ours.  They  arc  larj^cr,  and  have  a  great  deal  more  wool, 
which  is  very  j^ood,  and  easy  to  he  spun  and  wroup;ht."* 
The  animal  first  nientione<l  in  the  ahove  (juotation  is  the 
Uocky  Mountain  sheep  ;  the  other  is  the  wild-goat  of 
these  same  districts,  of  which  we  shall  now  exhihit  a  hrief 
history. t 

The  Ilocky  Mountain  goat  inhahits  the  highest  and  least 
aceessihle  sunnnits.  Tiie  precise  limits  of  its  territorial 
range  have  prohahly  not  yet  heen  ascertained  ;  hut  it  ap- 
|)cars  toextendfrom  the  fortieth  to  thcsixty-fourthorsixtv- 
tifth  degree  of  north  latitude.  It  is  seldom  or  never  ohserv- 
ed  at  any  distance  from  the  mountains^  and  is  said  to  be  less 
luirnerous  on  the  eastern  than  the  western  sides.  It  was 
not  met  with  by  MrDrummond  on  the  eastern  declivitits 
of  the  range,  near  tiie  sources  of  the  Klk  liiver,  where  tin- 
sheep  are  numerous;  but  he  learned  from  the  Indians, 
that  it  frequents  the  steepest  precipices,  and  is  much  mon- 
difficult  to  procure  than  the  sheep.  On  the  other  hand. 
.Major  Long  states,  from  the  information  of  a  factor  of 
the  Hudson's  Hay  Tompany,  that  they  are  of  easy  access 
io  the  hunter.  The  flesh  of  this  species  is  hard  and  dry. 
and  somewhat  unsavoury  from  its  musky  flavour.  Ik- 
neath  its  long  hairy  covering  there  is  a  '"oating  of  wool  ( ! 
tJie  finest  (juality.  '"  If  the  Highland  Society  and  the  Hud- 
son's Bay  (^ompany  were  to  combine  their  resources  ol 
"  wayt?  and  means,'  the  importation  of  this  fine  aniniiil 
into  the  Alpine  and  insular  districts  of  Scotland  might  k 
(Effected  without  much  difficulty  or  any  great  expense.' ;;: 
I'he  fine  wool  of  this  species  grows  principally  on  tlu 
i)ack  and  buttock,  and  is  intermixed  with  long  coarse 
hair.  1 1 

-f-  I  liavc  t'lscwluMi'  (il)st'r\('(l,  that  in  tin*  account  of  Lewis  am! 
Clarke's  travels,  in  the  Quarterly  llevievv  (vol.  xii.  pp.  li.'U,  !{(•-/. 
lhen>  are  two  passa^^es,  which,  if  not  corrected,  would  lead  to  ;in 
inaccurate  ccuichision  re}j;'ardiii^  the  origin  <  f  domestic  sheep.  Sci 
Quarterly  .Fournal  t)f  Agriculture,  \(».  i.\.  p.  !{74,  Note. 

.t  JMlinburgh  Review,  No.  10(i,  i).  IJ.Vi. 

II  The  svnonvniv  (tf  this  animal  is  somewhat  confused.  It  is  tlit 
uool-hearing  antelope,  .hitihtjtr  /./;;/r//r';  of  Major  Hamilton  SinitJi" 
— tlie  mountain  sheei) (though  distinct  I'r  "'  t';-^  V-.p  Orisfuaiio-iml 
of  Jameson  and  Ord; — the  Mazir  .■>  mi,  .,/'.■  '  srricca  of  I{;di- 
ues(|ue;-~tlie  Hxpirapia  Aimru\  ":  .)'  fV;  Ufairil'  t — the  .//.'  - 
I >)»'  Aiiuiirana  of  13esmarest; — and  liie  (_',t]-rfr  juicricuitu  it 
J{icluirdson. 


er  less  from 
more  wool, 
wrought."' 
tation  's  tlu 
vild-goat  of 
hibit  a  brief 

lest  and  least 
ts  territorial 
. ;  but  it  aj»- 
irtborsixty- 
lever  observ. 
;ai(l  to  be  less 
(les.  It  was 
rn  declivities 
er,  where  the 
the  Indians, 
s  much  mort- 

other  hand, 
f  a  factor  of 
f  easy  access 
lard  and  dry. 
iavour.  Be 
np;  of  wool » ; 
andthellutU 

resources  ol 
Kne  aninin! 
and  might  k 

t  expense.'  ^; 

pally  on  thf 
long  coarse 


of  Lewis  ami 
I.  pp.  'XU,  Ii(>-/ 
ould  lead  to  an 
itic  sheep.  Sec 
ote. 

used.     It  is  the 

lamillon  Smitli: 

Orisiittiiiii'i'^i} 

u-rircd  of  Uiiii- 

: — the  J/.''- 


Ql  ADIUPf'.DS. 


3,5;? 


The  bison,  or  American  buffalo  i^Bos  Ame'icanii.s),  i.<< 
.spread  over  a  great  portion  of  tlie  temperate  regions  of 
America,  and  api)ears  to  extend  southwards  prol)ably  a.s 
far  as  the  tbirty-tifth  degree  of  north  latit  ide.     Its  charac- 
teristic ])ositions,  however,  are  the  great  prairies  to  tbe 
v.estward  of  the  Mississippi,    where,   according   to    l)r 
Harlan,  they  .sometimes  congregate  in  such  vast  trooj)s, 
that  1(),()0()  individuals  are  supposed  to  have  been  seen 
at  one  time.     Although  tliey  inbabited  tbe  Carolinas  at 
the  period  of  the  earliest  colonization,   they  have  long 
since  retired  towards  the  plains  of  the  Missouri.     None 
have  been  seen  in  Pennsylvania  for  a  long  time,  nor  in 
Kentucky  .since  about  the  year  Mud.     The  influence  ex- 
erted over  the  nattiral  boundaries  of  the  brute  creation 
is  indeed  strikingly  illustrated  by  tlie  geographical  his- 
tory of  this  species.     It  appears  to  hav^'  formcily  existed 
throughout  ^he  whole  extent  of  the  Ignited  States,  with 
the  possible  exception  of  the  territory  to  the  east  of  Mud- 
son's  River  and  Lake  Champlain,  and  of  some  narrow 
lines  of  coast  along  the  Atlantic  shores  and  the  (iulf  of 
Mexico.     During  the  early  part  of  the  sixteenth  century 
it  was  seen  by  Alvar  Nunez  near  tlie  IJay  of  St  Bernard, 
which  may  be  regarded  as  its  southern  boundary  on  tiie 
eastern  si-.le  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  chain.     It  extends 
iriuch  farther  north  among  the  central  than  the  eastern 
territories ;  for  we  find  that  a  bisoit  was  killed  by  Captain 
FrankHn's  expedition  on  the  Salt  River,  in  the  sixtieth  pa- 
rallel ;  wdiile  it  has  not  been  traced  to  any  of  those  tracts 
which  lie  to  the  northward  of  Lakes  Ontario,  Erie,  tSiic., 
and  to  the  eastward  of  Lake  Superior.     Mr  Keating  states 
that  to  the  westward  of  Lake  Winijteg  the  bison  is  found 
as  far  north  as  the  sixty...second  degree  ;*  and  I)r  Richard- 
son adduces  the  testimony  of  the  natives  to  show  that  they 
have  taken  possession  of  the  flatUmestone-district  of  Slave 
Point,  on  the  north  side  of  Great  Slave  Lake,  and  have 
even  wandered  as  far  as  the  vicinity  of  Great  Marten 
Lake,  in  latitude  (i3°  or   (H'.       The  Rocky  Mountain 
range  appears  to  h?  ve  formerly  opi)osed  a  barrier  to  the 
westerly  progression  of  the  species ;  but   they  are   said 
to  have  discovered  of  late  years  a  passage  across  these 
mountains,  near  the  sources  of  tlie  Saskatchawan.     They 


*  Acfomit  «)f  Major  Loiij^'s  Expedition  to  the  Source  of  St  Peter's 
Ihver, ■ 


U.  ClUl[).   1. 


Y 


3.51. 


NATURAL  IIISI.  I»V. 


are  now  known  to  occur  ])oth  in  California  and  New 
Mexico,  and  tlieir  existence  on  the  Columbia  is  also  as- 
certained. 

The  male  bisons  contend  tofiether  with  great  fury  dur. 
ing  the  rutting-season,  and  it  is  dangerous  to  venture  near 
them  at  that  ])eriod.  In  general,  liowever,  they  are  shy 
and  wary,  and  there  is  more  difficulty  than  danger  in  aj). 
])roaching  them  ;  but  when  wounded  they  will  sometiniis 
turn  upon  and  pursue  the  hunter.  "  While  I  resided  at 
Carlton  House,"  ])r  liichardson  informs  us,  "  an  accident 
of  this  kind  occurred.  Mr  Finnan  M'Donald,  one  of  tlu' 
Hudson's  Bay  Com})any's  clerks,  was  descending  the  Sas- 
katdiawan  in  a  boat ;  and  one  evening,  having  })itche(l 
liis  tent  for  the  night,  he  went  out  in  the  dusk  to  look  for 
game.  It  had  become  nearly  dark  when  he  fired  at  a 
bison-bull,  which  was  gallo])ing  over  a  small  eminence ; 
and  as  he  was  hastening  forward  to  see  if  his  shot  had 
taken  effect^  the  wounded  beast  made  a  rush  at  him.  IK 
had  the  presence  of  mind  to  seize  the  animal  by  the  loiij: 
hair  on  its  forehead,  as  it  struck  him  on  the  side  with  \b 
horn  ;  and  being  a  remarkably  tall  and  powerful  man,  a 
struggle  ensued,  which  continued  until  his  wrist  was  se- 
verely  sprained,  and  his  arm  was  rendered  powerless  ;  In 
then  fell,  and  after  receiving  two  or  three  blows  becaiiu 
senseless.  Shortly  afterwards  he  was  found  by  his  com- 
panions lying  bathed  in  blood,  being  gored  in  several 
places  ;  and  the  bison  was  couched  beside  him,  apparently 
Avaiting  to  renew  the  attack  had  he  showed  any  signs  of 
life.  ^Ir  ]\ri)onald  recovered  from  the  immediate  effcct« 
of  the  injuries  he  received,  but  died  a  few  months  afttr- 
wards."* 

The  flesh  of  a  well-conditioned  bison  is  juicy,  and  oi 
excellent  flavour.  The  tongue  is  a  great  delicacy,  ami 
may  be  so  cured  as  to  surpass  the  gusto  of  that  part  of  an 
English  cow.  The  hump,  or  ivig  as  it  is  sometimes  call- 
ed, has  a  fine  grain,  and  is  almost  as  rich  and  tender  i' 
tlie  tongue.  In  regaril  to  the  external  characters  of  tlk 
bison,  the  male  is  remarkable  for  the  enormous  size  of  it> 
head,  the  conical  elevation  between  the  shoulders,  its  small 
piercing  eyes,  short  black  horns,  and  on  the  fore  quarter? 
the  great  profusion  of  shaggy  hair.  Its  liind  quarters  ap- 
pear comparatively  weak,  from  the  shortness  of  the  wooOy 


*  Fauna  Boreuli-Aiuei  icuna,  vol.  i.  p.  281. 


Qr.M)RLPKUS. 


3.  J  J 


lia  and  New 
bia  is  also  as- 

•eat  fury  dur- 
)  venture  near 

they  are  shy 
danger  in  ap- 
A- ill  sometimes 
lo  I  resided  at 
,  "  an  accident 
aid,  one  of  the 
ndinu;  the  Sas- 
laving  pitched 
usk  to  look  i'oi 

he  lired  at  a 
iiall  eminence : 
f  his  shot  had 
i\\  at  him.    Ih 
nal  hy  the  lone 
he  side  with  it> 
owerful  man,  a 
is  wrist  was  se- 
1  powerless  ;  Ik 
e  hlows  hecaiiu 
nd  by  his  coni- 
fored  in  several 
him,  apparently 
td  any  signs  ol 
[nmediate  ettW't^ 
Iv  months  after- 

is  juicy,  and  o! 
lit  deUcacy,  am! 
[f  that  part  of  a:; 
sometimes  call- 
•h  and  tender  a.- 
liaracters  of  tlit  | 
-mous  size  of  it? 
julders,  its  small 
[heforequarter^l 
lind  quarters  ap- 
less  of  the  woolly  I 

1. 281. 


hair  hy  which  they  are  covered.  The  male  sometimes 
weighs  above  '^OOO  jjounds;  l)ut  V2  or  1  I  cwt.  is  regarded 
as  a  good  weight  in  tiie  fur-countries.  It  measures  eigijt 
feet  and  a  half  in  length,  and  above  six  feet  liigii  at  the 
fore  (|uarter.  The  cow  is  smaller  in  the  head  and  shoul- 
ders than  the  hull. 

According  to  Uatines(iue,  the  hison  has  been  domesti- 
cated in  Kentucky  and  the  Ohio.*  It  is  even  reported 
by  some  authors  to  have  bred  with  the  tame  cow  of 
Kurojjean  origin  ;  and  the  cross  breed  is  said  to  continue 
prolitic.  This  statement,  however,  re(]uires  confirmation. 
"  Our  in(|uiries  on  the  sp,ot,"  says  .Major  II.  Smith, 
"  never  })r()duce(l  a  proof,  or  even  an  assertion  from  the 
well-informed,  that  they  had  seen  the  hybrid  offspring." 
This  animal  is  unknown  to  the  Esquimaux  on  the  shores 
of  the  Polar  Sea. 

W'e  shall  conclude  our  account  of  the  (juadruj)e(ls  of 
North  America  with  the(lescri[)ti()n  of  the  nuisk-ox  {OrU 
bo.s  nio.schdtu.s  of  I)e  lilainville).  A\'e  stand  indebted  for 
our  systematic  knowledge  of  this  curious  animal  to  Pen- 
nant, who  received  a  specimen  of  the  skin  from  the  tra- 
veller II  earne  ;t  but  it  had  been  previously  mentioned, 
after  a  vague  fashion,  by  several  of  the  early  English 
voyagers,  and  ^I.  Jeremie  had  imported  a  portion  of  tlie 
wool  to  Erance,  from  which  stockings  more  beautiful  than 
tliose  of  silk  were  manufactured.:!:  When  full  grown, 
this  animal  is  about  the  size  of  the  small  Highland  cattle. 
The  horns  are  remarkably  broad  at  their  bases,  and  cover 
tlie  brow  and  crown  of  the  head,  touching  each  other  for 
tlieir  entire  breadth  from  before  backwards.  The  nose  is 
blunt,  and  the  head  large  and  broad.  The  genend  colour 
of  the  coat  is  brown,  anil  on  the  back  there  is  a  saddle- 
like mark  of  a  brownish-white  colour.  The  hair  is  very 
long.  The  horns  of  the  cow  are  smaller  than  those  of  the 
male,  and  do  not  touch  each  other  at  their  bases,  and  the 
hair  on  the  throat  and  chest  is  shorter. 

The  flesh  of  the  musk-ox,  in  good  condition,  is  well 
flavoured.  It  resembles  that  of  the  rein-deer,  but  is 
coarser  grained,  and  smells  strongly  of  musk.     The  car- 


•  I  state  this  on  tho  intbrniation  of  M.  Antoine  Desinouliiis,  not 
having  had  it  in  my  power  to  peruse  the  work  of  the  writer  ahove 
iianied. 

+  Arctic  Zool<)gy,  vol.  i.  p.  11. 

■^  Voyage  au  Nord.  Charlevoix,  Histoire  de  la  Nouvelle  France. 


3.56 


NATlRAIi  FIISTOHY 


cass  of  this  animal  weighs,  cxdusivc  of  the  offal,  ahout 
;i()()  pounds.  The  wool  is  remarkably  fine.  This  species 
inhabits  a  pjrcat  extent  of  barren  land  to  the  northward  ot 
the  sixtieth  ]>arallel.  'J'hey  visit  Melville  Island  (north  lat. 
7.V')  in  the  month  of  INIay,  but  they  do  not,  hke  the  rein- 
deer, extend  to  (ireenland  and  Spitzbergen. 

These  are  the  princi))al  (juadrupeds  of  the  northern 
regions  of  the  New  Worltl.* 


*  Witli  a  view  to  avoid  repetition,  wo  here  omit  the  history  <ii 
the  seals  and  cetaceous  tribes,  as  those  de])artnients  have  heci 
pretty  Tiillv  ilhistrated  in  a  former  volume  ot'our  series.  See  No.  I. 
otthe  E(linl)urj;li  Cabinet  I. ibrarj,  entitled  "  Narrative  of  niscover\ 
and  Adventure  in  the  l\)lar  Seas  and  Het;ions,"  by  Sir  John  Leslie 
Professor  Jameson,  and  Ilii^h  Murray,  Es(|. 


e  ofFal,  about 
Tliis  species 
northward  of 
nd  (nortli  lat. 
like  the  rein- 


the  nortlieni 


it  the  liistory  oi 
onts  liavo  lu'ci' 
it's.  See  No.  I. 
iveot"  Discovi'M 
Sir  John  Leslie. 


DIKDS. 


;{.ir 


ClIAPTKll  VII. 

The.  Birds  of  the  Northern  Re(ji())is  of  America. 

Tiiikey  Buzzard  —  (Jt)l(loii-ea<,de  —  liald-ea^lo — Hawks  —  0\\  is — 
Butcher-birds — Kiiij;'-I)ird — Northern  Tyrant — American  Water- 
ouzel —  Red-l)reasted  'J'liriish  —  Bhie-hlrd — Arctic  Bhie-I)ird — 
Cedar-bird,  or  American  ('liatterer  —  Snow-bunting — Painted 
Bunting' — Pine-grosi)eak — Mveniiig-.^rosbeak — Scarlet  Tanager 
— Cuckoo-bunting — Crows — Woodpeckers — Iluinining-birds  — 
Swallows  —  Belted  KingHsher  —  (irouse  —  Passenger-pigeon  — 
Grallatores — Natatores — Gulls — Uocky  Mountain  (ioiden-eye 
— Bewick's  Swan  — Trum[)eter-s\\an  — Wiiite  I'elicau  —  Great 
Northern  Diver — Black-throated  Diver — Guillemots. 

The  difficulties  attending  the  completion  of  an  ornitho- 
logical history  were  complained  of  by  Button,  and  the 
chief  of  these  was  stated  by  that  illustrious  observer  as 
consisting  in  the  fact  that  naturalists  were  already  ac- 
quainted with  800  species  of  the  class;  and  he  farther 
expressed  his  opinion  that  there  might  actually  exist  loOO 
or  even  2000  ditterent  kinds  of  birds.  Now,  as  nearly 
liOOO  species  of  the  feathered  race  have  been  ascertained 
up  to  the  present  period,  and  many  new  species  are  in  the 
course  of  being  discovered  and  describeil  during  every 
successive  year,  our  readers  may  form  some  oi)inion  of 
the  laborious  toil  attending  ♦he  researches  of  the-e  *'  d.e- 
generate  days,"  in  which  people  of  such  inferior  capacity 
to  the  French  Phny  have  to  grapple  with  a  subject  so  in- 
tiiiitely  more  encumbered.  No  doubt  the  division  of  la- 
bour has  been  more  attended  to  since  the  greater  exten- 
sion of  the  field  of  exercise,  and  liuttbn's  brilliant  genius 
was  too  often  satisfied  with  vague  generahties,  unsup- 
portable  in  proportion  to  the  increase  of  that  more  defi- 
nite knowledge  which  has  been  recently  acquired.  With 
an  intellect  so  excitable  and  full  of  thought,  and  a  flow 
of  language  so  powerful  and  persuasive,  it  was  no  marvel 
that  such  a  naturahst  should  have  outstripped  for  a  season 


3.iS 


NATURAL  IFISTOUY. 


Jill  his  competitors  in  tlie  career  of  fame  ;  hut  tlie  fal)l('  ot 
the  hi'/i.r  and  tiie  hare  is  not  ahogether  inai)phcahle  to  the 
two  classes  of  observers,  of  one  of  whidi  lUitton  was  the 
head  and  front, — for  there  was  not  only  an  occasional 
pause  in  his  onward  pro;:;ress,  hut  those  who  now  follow 
his  ibotstei)s  in  the  search  of  truth  are  too  ofte  .  oblijzed 
either  to  retro.ti;rade  or  trace  out  a  labyrinth  with  many 
win(Ungs.  It  is  well,  however,  that  such  a  master-spirit 
should  in  any  way  have  end)raced  the  subject  of  natural 
history  ;  for  it  has  too  fre(piently  hai)pened  that  men  ol 
very  steril  genius,  of  whose  mental  constitution  enthusiasm 
formed  no  j)ortion,  l>ave  imagined  themselves  devoted  to 
the  study.  Now,  eve;i  the  obscurity  and  mistiness  of 
Huffon,  though  j)erha])s  not  always  ecjual  to  other  people's 
sunshine,  are  yet  composed  of  "  clouds  of  glory,"  and 
hence  the  hold  possessed  by  his  writings,  and  by  those  oi 
all  belonging  to  the  intellectual  class  of  observers,  to  whom 
truth  is  as  dear  as  it  was  to  Aristotle,  but  to  whom  never- 
theless the  common  sights  of  earth 

"  (1(»  soiiu'liiiu's  seem 
Apimrt'llM  in  ccU^stiiil  li^'lit, 
The  ylory  and  the  freshness  of  a  (h'eam." 

The  extension  which  we  have  given  to  the  history  oi 
North  American  (juadrupeds  in  the  preceding  chapter, 
and  which  we  bestowed  in  consequence  of  the  greater  im. 
portance  usually  attached  to  the  mammiferous  class^  ren- 
ders necessary  a  more  restricted  selection  in  the  other 
branches.  We  regret  this  the  less  in  relation  to  the  fea- 
thered tribes,  as  an  admirable  history  of  American  birds 
has  been  lately  brought  w^ithin  reach  of  every  class  of 
readers.*  We  shall,  however,  endeavour  to  exhibit  a 
view  of  some  of  the  more  remarkable  features  of  that  dt- 
jiartment. 

Among  birds  of  prey,  the  eagle  tribe  naturally  claim 
our  first  attention ;  but  as  it  seems  to  be  the  practice  of 
naturalists  to  give  the  vultures  the  precedence,  we  sliall 
a<lhere  to  the  usual  course. 

*  American  Ornitliolo^Vj  or  the  Natural  History  of  tlie  Birds  ot 
file  U.'.Ued  States.  Ry  Alexander  Wilson  and  Charles  Lncian  l\<>- 
naparte ;  edited  by  Robert  .Jameson,  Es([.,  F.R.S.E.  &  L.,  i«;c., 
four  volumes.  ]{dinl)urij;h,  \H',i].  In  this  edition  (which  form- 
volumes  7^5 — Jil  of  Constable's  Miscellany)  the  subjects  are  syste- 
matically arrang'ed  for  the  first  time,  and  many  interestia^  addilioi^ 
liave  been  inserted  by  the  distinguished  editor. 


t  tlie  fable  ot 
liciible  to  thi 
ttbn  was  the 
111  occasional 
)  now  folio u 
)ftt'  ,  oblifzcd 
1  witb  many 
inastor-spirit 
■ct  of  nat\iral 

tbat  men  ot 
n  entbusiasiri 
es  devoted  to 

mistiness  of 
:)tber  people's 

glory,"  au(! 
il  by  tbose  ol 
,'ers,  to  wboiM 
wbom  never- 


im. 

tbe  history  of 
(ling  chapter, 
le  greater  im- 
)us  class^  ren- 

in  the  other 
)n  to  the  fea- 
nerican  birds 
:!very  class  of 

to  exhibit  a 
es  of  that  dt- 

aturaiiy  claim 
le  practice  of 
ince,  we  sliall 


of  tlie  Birds  ot 
rl(s  I.miaii  B"- 
S.E.  &  L.,  .v.. 
n  (which  fcrni- 
)ii'cts  luv  systo- 
estia^  addiiioib 


HIUOS. 


3.59 


The  Turkey  vulture,  or  Turkey  buzzard,  as  it  is  calksl 
ill  America  {^Cnthnrtcs  aio'a),  so  comiuuii  in  the  rnited 
States,  occurs  in  tbe  central  districts  of  the  fur-countries 
as  far  nortii  as  tbe  tifty-fourtb  degree.  It  is  partially 
migratory  even  in  tbe  middle  states,  and  retires  south- 
wards on  the  apjiroacb  of  winter.  During  tbeir  summer 
migration,  a  certain  mimber  of  individuals  reach  tbe  banks 
of  the  Saskatcliawan,  wbere  tbcy  usually  make  tbeir  ap- 
pearance wlien  tbe  montli  of  .lune  is  far  advanced,  and 
after  all  tbe  otber  sunnner-birds  have  arrived  and  settle<l 
in  tbeir  leafy  arliours.  Tbougli  gregarious  in  tbe  more 
southern  parts  of  North  America,  wbere  tbey  roost  to- 
getber,  and  also  botb  Hy  and  feed  in  Hocks,  seldom  more 
than  a  pair  are  seen  in  comjiany  towards  tbeir  nortbern 
limits.  They  feed  on  carrion,  which  they  discover  at  a 
great  distance  by  the  sense  of  sigbt  alone;  for  it  aj)pears 
by  recent  observation  tbat  tbeir  sense  of  smell  is  extremely 
defective.  Tbey  usually  breed  on  tbe  stump  of  a  decayed 
tree,  and  have  been  observed  to  return  to  tbe  same  spot 
for  a  series  of  successive  years.  Tbey  are  not  only  foul 
feeders,  but  sometimes  gorge  themselves  so  immoderately 
as  to  be  incapable  lor  some  time  afterwards  ot"  taking 
wing.  Mr  Ord  has  recorded  tbat  a  man  of  Delaware, 
observing  a  group  of  Turkey  buzzards  regaling  them- 
selves upon  tbe  putrid  carcass  of  a  borse,  and  baving  a 
mind  to  capture  one  of  them,  he  cauticmsly  apj)roaclied 
the  flock,  and  suddenly  seized  one  of  tbe  fattest  in  bis 
arms.  The  indignant  vulture,  however,  immediately 
disgorged  such  a  torrent  of  tilth  in  bis  face,  as  to  i)roduce 
tlie  effect  of  a  powerful  emetic,  and  cured  him  for  ever 
after  of  all  desire  to  catch  any  more  Turkey  buzzards. 

The  golden-eagle  {^Aqiiila  chry.sa'to.s),  of  which  the 
ring-tail  {F.  fiilinis)  is  regarded  as  the  young,  breeds 
among  tbe  sub-alpine  recesses  of  tbe  Rocky  ^Mountains. 
Tbe  tail-feathers  are  highly  valued  by  many  tribes  of 
American  Indians  for  adorning  their  calumets  or  pipes  of 
peace.  The  solitary  habits  of  these  birds,  and  tbe  usually 
inaccessible  nature  of  the  vast  precipices  where  they  liang 
their  "  procreant  cradles,"  prevent  our  acquiring  much 
knowledge  of  the  distinctive  habits  of  the  species,  and 
hence  our  difficulty  in  discriminating  between  the  Ame- 
rican and  European  kinds.  Wilson  observed  the  ring- 
tail sailing  along  the  Alpine  declivities  of  tbe  Wiiit^ 
Mountains  of  New  Hampshire,  and  over  tbe  Highlands 


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NATI'UAL  HlsTdUV. 


of  Hudson's  lliver,  and  tlie  adult  bird,  in  the  plumacv 
of  tile  j;olden-ea;j:le,  lias  also  been  observed  in  the  Tnited 
States.  The  vision  of  this  bird  is  said  to  lie  so  acute  and 
long-sif^hted,  that  it  can  discover  its  {)rey  from  a  heijjjht 
at  which  it  is  itself  scarcely  visible,  notwithstandinjj;  the 
lireadth  of  its  wide-exjWuidcd  wings.  "  A  story  is  cur- 
rent," says  I)r  liichardson,  "on  the  plains  of  the  Sas- 
katchawan,  of  a  half-breed  Indian  who  was  vaunting;  his 
prowess  before  a  band  of  his  countrymen,  and  wishing  to 
imj)ress  them  with  a  belief  of  his  su[)ernatural  powers. 
In  the  midst  of  his  harangue  an  eagle  was  observed  sus. 
l)ended,  as  it  were,  in  the  air  directly  over  his  head,  upon 
which,  ])ointing  aloft  with  his  dagger,  which  glistened 
brightly  in  the  sun,  he  called  uj)oii  the  royal  liird  to  come 
down.  To  his  own  amazemetit,  no  less  than  to  the  con- 
sternation of  the  surrounding  Indians,  the  eagle  seemed 
to  obey  the  charm,  for  instantly  shooting  down  with  tlie 
velocity  of  an  arrow,  it  impalecl  itself  on  the  point  of  liis 
weapon  !"* 

A  large  and  powerful  species,  more  generally  known  in 
America,  though  not  peculiar  to  the  New  World,  is  the 
liald-eagle  {Aqnild  /ciicocc/i/ifi/d).  It  resides  all  the  year 
in  the  Unittul  States,  but  is  a  bird  of  [)assage  in  those  more 
northern  countries  which  lie  lietween  (ireat  Slave  Lake 
and  Lake  Su|)erior.  Fish  form  the  favourite  food  of  the 
bald-eagle,  and  there  seems  something  more  tyrannical  in 
his  mode  of  obtaining  it  than  aitogetlier  accords  with  the 
e<juality  of  republican  legislation.  "  Elevated,"  says  Wil- 
son, "  on  the  high  dead  limb  of  some  gigantic  tree,  that 
commands  a  wide  view  of  the  neighbouring  shore  and 
ocean,  he  seems  calmly  to  contemplate  the  motions  of  the 
various  featlu^red  tribes  that  pursue  tlieir  busy  avocations 
lielow.  The  snow-white  gulls,  slowly  winnowing  the  air  ; 
the  busy  tr'niya-,  coursing  along  the  sands  ;  trains  of  ducks, 
streaming  over  the  surface ;  silent  and  watchful  cranes, 


*  Faiinn  Horciili-Amcricjina,  \u\.  ii.,  tli.-  Rinls.  By  William 
Sv.aiiisoii,  Ks(|.,  F.H.S.,  F.I  ..S.,  ic*-.,  and  .lulm  Hitliardsoii,  M.I)., 
F.U.S.,  F.L.S.,  Si(rjj^o<»ii  and  Naturalist  to  tlio  KxiK'ditions.  I.oii- 
don,  115IM.  Tiiis  skilful  and  lu'antil'idly-illustratod  work  is  one  tit 
till'  nidst  valnabh'  voliuin's  wliiili  lias  recently  appeared  ontliesuli- 
jeet  <tf  ornitluiloixyi  and,  viewed  in  connexion  with  the  preeedint^ 
IHihlications  of  Wilson,  C.  L.  Honanarte,  and  Audubon,  it  jjoes  far 
to  complete  on«'  knowledm'  of  tiie  leallieied  tribes  ot  the  northern 
regions  of  the  New  World. 


the  pluiTi,ic;o 
11  tlic  United 
so  acute  and 
rom  a  height 
staiKhnjj;  the 
story  is  our- 
of  the  Sas- 
vauntin^;  his 
(I  wisliin^;  to 
ural  powers. 
)hserve(l  siis- 
is  head,  upon 
k'h  ghstened 
hird  to  come 
u  lO  the  con- 
eagle  seemed 
)wn  witli  the 
'  point  of  his 

Uly  known  in 

Vorld,  is  the 

s  all  the  year 

in  those  more 

Slave  Lake 

'  food  of  the 

tyramiical  in 

)rds  with  the 

1,"  says  VViU 

tic  tree,  that 

ig  shore  and 

lotions  of  the 

sy  avocations 

ving  the  air ; 

lins  of  ducks, 

•hfui  cranes, 

By  William 
lardscHi,  M.Dv 
1(1  it  ions.  Ldii- 
Ivoik  is  one  oi 
Irt'd  on  tlio  siit)- 
tlie  prcicdiiii,' 
Ion,  it  ^ot's  tar 
It  the  m>rtliern 


BIHDS. 


ihn 


intent  and  wading;  clamorous  crows,  and  all  the  winged 
nmltitudes  that  sul»sist  hy  tiie  hounty  of  this  vast  lifjuid 
niaga/ine  of  nature  ; — high  over  all  these  hovers  one  whose 
action  instantly  arrests  all  his  attention,  liy  his  wide 
curvature  of  wing,  and  sudden  suspension  in  the  air,  he 
knows  him  to  he  the  fish-hawk,  settli)ig  over  some  de- 
voted victim  of  the  deei>.  Hi^^eye  kindles  at  the  sight, 
and  halancing  himself,  with  half-opened  wings,  on  the 
branch,  he  watches  the  result.  Down,  rapid  as  an  arrow, 
from  heaven  descends  the  ohject  of  his  attention  ;  the 
roar  of  its  wings,  reaching  the  ear  as  it  (lisa})pears  in  the 
deep,  making  the  surges  foam  around!  At  this  moment 
I'le  eager  looks  of  the  eagle  are  all  ardour,  anct  levelling 
ills  neck  for  flight,  he  sees  tlie  tish-hawk  once  more 
emerge,  struggling  with  his  prey,  and  mounting  in  the 
air  with  scvams  of  exultation.  These  are  the  signal  for 
our  luro,  who,  launching  into  the  air,  instantly  gives 
chase,  and  soon  gains  on  the  fish-hawk  ;  each  exerts  his 
utmost  to  mount  al)ove  the  other,  <Usi)laying  in  these  ren- 
kontres  the  most  sublime  aerial  evolutions.  The  unei;- 
I'lnnhered  e.igle  rapidly  advances,  and  is  just  on  the  ])oint 
of  reaching  his  o|)ponent,  when,  with  a  sudden  scream, 
jirobably  of  despair  and  honest  execration,  the  latter  drops 
Ills  fish  ;  the  eagle,  poising  himself  for  a  moment,  as  if 
to  take  a  mc/re  certain  aim,  descends  like  a  whirlwind, 
MMtches  it  in  his  grasp  ere  it  reaches  the  water,  and  bears 
his  ill-gotten  l)()oty  silently  away  to  the  woods."'"^ 

Of  the  smaller  tribes  of  the  Falconida'  which  inhabit 
the  fur-countries,  we  shall  satisfy  ourselves  by  a  sim})le 
enumeration  of  the  names, t  and  proceed  to  the  n;,cturnal 
ijirds  of  prey. 


'  Aiucrii-an  ()rnitlioloi;y,  vol.  i.  p.  'IW.  We  (juote  Professor 
.liinii'soirs  edition  tliroiii^liont  this  volume. 

•j- Tlie  jM'remine-falcon  (/'.//*  ;v///^//f/v),  the  jerfaK-on  (/•'.  /*- 
Itiii'licn.s),  liie  Ar.ieiieaii  sparrou-hawk  (/•'.  sjHim'riii.s).,  tlie  pi- 
j:('i)!i  hawk  (/•'.  ciihiiitliniit.s),  the  merlin  (/'.  trsn/aii},  the  gos- 
'liiwk  (/•'.  j)(tht}iili(ti')ii.\),  the  slate-i'oloured  hawk  (!'.  Pi'iinsiilva- 
ii'hu.^),  the  eonimon  hnzzanl  (/•'.  /mho),  the  red-tailed  or  American 
luizzard  (/'.  A(i/r////.v),  the  ron^h-leg-red  falcon  (/•'.  A///fj/*//.v),  the 
Ameriian  ring-tail  (/•'.  cjimiiits  /).  The  |)recedin^',  with  three 
>|M'(ies  of  ea^ii',  raise  the  amount  of  northern  aii  ipilrine  diurnal 
liinls  to  fourt.-en.  ('.  I..  iJonaparte  eiunnerates  seventeen  species 
ill  his  ••' Svnojisis,"  and  has  descrihed  an  eighteenth  in  his  Sn[)ple- 
iiu'iit  to  Wilson  under  the  name  of  l-'tton  ( 'nD/irri.  Mr  Aiidimoii 
has  likewise  (h'dicated  a  new  species  under  the  name  of  J'uLu 


3f)2 


NATIHAL  IIISTOnV. 


Of  the  StrujUlfP  or  owls,  ]\Ir  Swainson  has  o})servc(l. 
''  They  present  va\  asseinhlajze  of  hirds  as  united  among 
themselves  as  tl)ey  are  distinct  from  ail  otiiers.  Tliere 
isj  we  helieve,  no  one  species  yet  discovered  wliicli  even 
a  common  ohserver  would  not  immediately  ])ronounce  to 
tx>  an  owl,  or  would  he  in  danger  of  confounding  with  a 
liawk  or  goatsucker,  the  oidy  two  groups  to  whicii  the 
Strigidic  are  related  in  inunediate  affinity.  Vet,  although 
tliis  relationship  is  too  ohvious  to  he  (loul)ted,  it  uuist  be 
confessed  that  a  considerahle  hiatus  intervenes  hetweeri 
lK)th.  AN'hether  these  will  he  lessened  l;y  future  discove- 
ries, or  whether  owls,  like  the  jjarrots,  are  in  some'degrec 
an  isolated  group,  whose  aberrant  forms  no  longer  exist, 
are  j)oints  which  may  always  remain  in  obscurity." 

'i'he  largest  of  the  Xorth  American  species  is  the  great 
cinereous  owl  [Strir  cincrni).  It  iidiabits  a  vast  extent 
of  woody  territory  from  Hudson's  Hay  to  the  Pacific.  It 
is  couunon  along  the  shores  of  (ireat  Bear  Lake,  and 
of  course  in  these  and  other  higher  latitutles  nuist  of  ne- 
cessity ])ursue  its  prey  by  ('.aylight,  the  mantle  of  night 
iK'ing  there  a  thing  unknown  during  the  sunnner-seasoii. 
However,  it  hunts  chiefly  when  the  sun  is  low,  and  wheii 
tJie  sliadows  of  the  great  woods  are  deep  and  length  ned  : 
for  it  is  then  that  the  American  hares  and  many  uuirim 
animals  which  form  its  favourite  food  are  themselvc- 
abroad.  On  the  '2'M\  of  May,  I)r  Richardson  discovereil 
a  nest  of  the  cinereous  owl,  made  of  sticks  and  lined  witli 
feathers,  on  the  toi)  of  a  lofty  balsam  ])oplar-tree.  It  coti- 
tained  three  young,  covered  over  with  a  whitish  down 
He  could  only  get  the  nest  by  felling  the  tree,  which  wa- 
a  remarkably  thick  one  ;  and  whilst  the  operation  was  gt). 
ing  on,  the  about  to  be  bereaved  parents  flew  in  anxiou< 
and  re})eated  circles  above  and  around  the  objects  of  thci: 
long  solicitude,  keeping,  however,  so  higli  in  the  air  asn 
Ixi  l)eyond  gunshot.  The  young  were  kept  alive  for  a  pt- 
riod  of  two  months,  after  which  they  effected  tlieir  escajn 

Sftinlrii,  to  the  iiohlr  president  of  the  Liiina>an  Soeietv.  Four  ' 
IV)naparte's  hst,  viz.  /•'.  p/iim/ti'iis,  J',  iufhmojih'rits,  ]■'.  fiiraiti' 
and  /■'.  I'nihsjiliHiiiiciis,  I*.,  seem  to  ociiir  onlv  in  tlie  sontlir: 
irarts  of  the  United  States,  and  tlierefore  do  not  fall  witliin  m, 
liniits;  hut  three  others,  the  Stanlev-hawk  ahove  named,  jilci. 
witli  liiitfo  Sdnrli-liiliinniis  and  J{.  lii/niKi/is,  are  supposed  \>i'' 
northern  hirds.  The  Arctic  rung'e  of  Mr  Anduhon's  specie> 
piohalily  still  unkiiowu. 


HIIIDK. 


'Mill 


has  observed, 
initt'd  ainoiiL' 
Iters.     There 
I  wliich  even 
proiioimee  to 
nclinfi  with  a 
to  whivli  the 
Vet,  although 
(I,  it  must  be 
renes  betwtrii 
uture  (liscove- 
n  souieMeij;re( 
)  longer  exist. 
scurity." 
ies  is  the  great 
K  a  vast  extent 
tbe  Paeitic.    It 
,ear  Lake,  and 
es  must  of  nt- 
lantle  of  night 
unnmer-seasoti. 
;lo\v,  and  wbei. 
nd  length  ned : 
d  many  murim 
are  themselves 
Ison  discovereil 
and  lined  witli 
iir-tree.    It  coti- 
whitish  down 
tree,  wbicb  wib 
)eration  was  gt>. 
tic'W  in  anxioii' 
o\)jects  of  tbti: 
in  the  air  as  n 
)t  alive  for  a  \)^- 
ted  tbeir  escajx 

Soi'iotv.  Four  '■ 
'i-iis,  f'.fiircnli'- 
ily  in  till'  soutlir:: 
u".t  fall  within  "i 
)ovo  named,  alti. 
an*  supposed  tii> 
idubon  s  spt'cii"" 


This  spceics  measures  about  two  feet  in  length  from  bill 
to  tail. 

Tbe  Virginian  horned-oul  {Strir  V'ir(j\nian(i)  is  ano- 
ther large  s])eeies  |)i'euliar  to  Ameriea,  but  very  widely 
ditfused over  the  New  World.  It  was  killed  by  Mr  Druin- 
niond  among  the  Uocky  .Mountains.  It  is  known  to  in- 
habit the  table-lands  of  ,Mi\ieo,  and  even  the  s[)eeies  from 
the  Straits  of  3Iagellan  {I*liunlii'.<  Euhotiinrcs,  .>s.>)  ap- 
pears to  be  identieal.  In  the  Tnited  .States  it  is  ex- 
tremely connnon,  and  inhabits  the  fiir-eountries  wherever 
tJie  tind)er  is  of  large  size.  Its  loud  nocturnal  cries,  is- 
suing from  tbe  gloomiest  recesses  of  the  forest,  are  said 
to  l)ear  a  resend)lance  to  a  hollow  and  sepulchral  luanari 
voice,  and  have  thus  been  the  fre(pient  source  of  alarm  to 
llie  benighted  traveller.  A  l>arty  of  Scottish  Highland- 
ers, in  the  service  of  the  Hudson's  liay  C'omj)any,  bap- 
[)ened  in  a  winter  journey  to  encamp  after  nightfall  in  a 
dense  clump  of  trees,  the  dark  t(<[)s  of  which,  and  their 
loity  stems,  gave  a  solemnity  to  the  scene,  strongly  excit- 
able of  superstitious  feelings.  Tbe  solemn  etlect  was 
heightened  by  tiie  discovery  of  a  tomb,  which,  with  a  na- 
tural taste  not  unfrecpjently  exhibited  by  the  Indians,  was 
placed  in  tbe  centre  of  this  secluded  spot.  'I'he  travellers 
liad  finished  their  evening  repast,  and  were  trimminj< 
their  tire  for  tbe  night,  when  for  the  iirst  time  the  slow 
and  dismal  tones  of  the  horned-owl  fell  on  their  ear.  Tbey 
at  once  concluded  that  a  voice  so  mysterious  and  unearthly 
must  be  the  :tioaning  spirit  of  the  departed,  wbose  liaL- 
Icnved  fane  they  bad  disturbed  by  inadvertently  making  a 
tin.'  of  tbe  timber  of  his  tond).  They  consequently  passed 
a  long  night  of  sleepless  fear,  and  gladly  quitted  the  iii- 
omened  s})ot  with  the  earliest  dawn.* 

In  our  notices  of  these  and  other  well-known  sjiecies, 
we  consider  it  unnecessary  to  enter  into  any  minute  de- 
scriptive details  of  j)lumage,  preferring  rather  to  illus- 
trate their  history,  distribution,  and  general  modes  of 
life,  as  more  likely  to  interest  the  majority  of  readers.  In 
the  case,  however,  of  any  new  or  remark;il)le  discovery, 
we  may  occasionally  deviate  from  this  rule,  and,  as  an  ex- 
ception to  our  usual  practice,  we  m\y  bere  tak.>  an  elegant 
species  recently  described  for  the  tirst  time  under  tlie 
name  of  tlie  Arctic  or  wbite  iiorned-owl  iStrix  Arctica). 


Fauna  Boreali- Americana,  vol.  ii.  p.  H!i. 


:i6i 


NATl  UAL  IllsroUY. 


This  fine  owl  is  excee(linj;ly  rare,  only  a  sinj:;le  specimen 
iiaviiij^  been  seen  by  the  overland  expeditions.  It  mea- 
sures about  two  feet  in  len;^th.  Its  jj;eneral  colour  is 
white,  tipj^ed  here  and  there  with  brown  upon  the  dorsal 
asj)ect,  and  marked  with  crowded  transverse  blackish- 
hrown  bars  and  lines.  The  }j;r()un(l-colour  of  the  under 
portion  of  the  j)luma<;e  is  of  a  brilliant  white,  l)an(le<l  on 
the  throat  and  Hanks.  The  facial  disk  is  imperfect,  tlK' 
i-ar-feathers  are  ample,  the  tail  rounded,  the  bill  short  and 
stronj;.  This  bird  was  kiJled  at  Carlton  House  in  the 
month  of  May. 

We  now  enter  upon  a  sliort  consideration  of  the  In,ses. 
sttr'ud  or  ])erching-birds,  as  they  are  called  by  the  modern 
jsysteuKitists.  The  order  includes  the  Pica'  and  I'd-ssercs 
of  the  Linniean  arran}j;ement.  We  conunence  with  the 
butcher-birds,  genus  Lunius. 

The  American  gray-shrike  {Ijutius  ejccuhitorides  ot 
Swainson),  a  newly-ascertained  sj)ecies,  l)ears  a  great  re- 
seud)lance  to  the  ash-coloured  shrike  of  Kurope.  It  does 
not  advance  farther  to  the  northward  than  the  fifty-fourth 
degree,  and  seems  to  attain  to  that  latitude  only  in  the 
meridian  of  the  warm  and  sandy  plains  of  the  Saskatcha- 
wan,  which  are  said  to  enjoy  an  earlier  spring  and  longer 
suimner  than  the  densely-wooded  countries  between  them 
and  Hudson's  IJay.  It  buihls  among  willow-bushes,  feeds 
on  grashoppers,  and  lays  six  eggs  of  a  pale  yellowish-gray, 
irregularly  spotted  witli  green  and  gray. 

Allied  to  the  shrikes  in  many  i)articulars  are  the  tyrant 
fly-catchers.  The  king-bird  {^'I'yrannns  intrepid uts)  is 
one  of  the  most  remarkable  for  the  boldness  and  reckless 
daring  which  he  dis})lays  in  his  attacks  on  the  largest  ol' 
the  feathered  1  ace.  During  the  earher  months  of  sum- 
mer, his  life  is  one  continued  scene  of  broil  and  battle. 
Aecorthng  to  Wilson,  hawks  and  crows,  the  bald-eagle, 
and  the  great  black-eagle,  all  equally  dread  an  encounter 
with  this  dauntless  creature,  who,  as  soon  as  he  perceives 
a  bird  of  prey,  iiowever  powerful,  in  his  neighbourhood, 
darts  into  the  air,  aiul,  quickly  ascending  above  his  sup- 
posed enemy,  pounces  with  violence  upon  his  back,  and 
coiuinues  his  attack  till  his  own  domains  have  been  de- 
parted from.  He  is  likewise  obnoxious  to  the  human 
race,  on  account  of  his  love  of  bees  ;  for  he  will  take  post 
on  a  fence  or  garden-tree  in  the  vicinity  of  the  hives,  and 


}j;le  specimen 
lis.  It  inea- 
ral  colour  i^ 
on  the  (lorsal 
rsc  hlackisli- 
;)t'  tlie  under 
e,  handed  o!i 
n perfect,  tlu' 
hill  short  and 
House  in   the 


of  the  Inses. 

ly  the  niodern 

and  i*r/.v6't'r<;v 

!nce  witli  the 

mhitorides  ot 
irs  a  great  re- 
•ope.  It  does 
le  tifty-fourth 
le  only  in  the 
lie  Saskatcha- 
iig  and  longer 
hetween  them 
hushes,  feeds 
jllovvish-gray. 

are  the  tyrant 

titrc.jnduti)  is 

and  reckless 

he  largest  o'.' 

iths  of  sum- 

il  and  battle. 

le  hald-eaglc. 

an  encounter 

i  he  perceives 

ighhourhood. 

jovo  his  sup- 

lis  back,  anil 

ave  been  de- 

the  human 

will  take  post 

he  hives,  ami 


niiiDs. 


:jfi.> 


r.iakc  continual  sallies  on  the  industrious  insects  as  they 
pass  to  or  from  their  never-ending  labours.  'I'he  Ameri- 
can ornithologist  has  given  a  poetical  version  of  the  life 
of  this  lively  species,  of  which  the  following  is  the  com- 
mencement : — 

"  Kur  ill  the  south  ulicrc  vast  Maia^nioii  Huws, 

And  hoimdlt'ss  forests  imkiio\Mi  wilds  (MuIosl' ; 

\  iiuMaiij^lod  sliorcs  and  sulVocatiii^^  woods, 

Parfii'd  11])  with  heat,  or  drowiiM  with  iMHiiiii^  iloiMln; 

Where  each  extreme  alteriiati'ly  prevails, 

And  nature  sad  tlieir  ravages  lu-vNails; 

I<o  !  hij^h  in  air  ahovi;  those  trackh'ss  wastes, 

Witli  spring's  return  the  kin<i-l>inl  hither  liastes; 

Toasts  the  famed  gulf,*  and,  from  his  heii^'-ht,  e\|)lores 

Its  thousand  streams,  its  long  indented  shores, 

Its  plains  immense,  wide  opening  on  the  day, 

Its  lakes  and  isles,  where  leatherM  mini(ins  play; 

All  tempt  not  him  :  till,  ga/ing  from  on  high, 

("or.r Mima's  regions  wide  helow  him  lie; 

Tlu're  end  liis  wand'rings  and  his  \iish  t(»  roam, 

There  li«'  his  native;  woods,  his  lields,  his  /uniir  • 

Dow  n,  cireling,  lie  deseeiids,  from  azure  heiglits, 

And  on  a  fidl-hlowii  sassafras  ali^lits. 

Fatigued  and  silent,  for  a  wiiile  he  views 
His  old  fre(|uented  haunts,  ae.d  shades  reelnse; 
Sees  hrothers,  comrades,  every  hour  arrive, — 
Hears,  humming  round,  the  tenants  of  the  hive. 
Love  fires  his  hreast;  he  woos,  and  soon  is  hiest, 
And  in  tiie  hlooming  orchard  huilds  his  nest." — 

And  SO  on.  The  king-bird  migrates  in  sum.!;ier  at  least 
as  far  north  as  the  fifty-seventh  parallel.  It  reaches  Carl- 
ton House  in  the  month  of  May,  and  retires  southwards 
in  September.     It  feeds  on  insects  and  wild  berries. 

A  new  species  of  this  genus  has  been  lately  descril^'d 
under  the  title  of  northern  tyrant  {l'i/ran)ius  borval'i.^, 
Swainson).  It  was  shot  on  the  banks  of  the  Saskatcha- 
wan,  but  nothing  is  known  of  its  habits.  It  is  consider- 
ably smaller  tb.an  the  preceding,  and  may  at  once  be  dis- 
tinguished from  it  by  its  forked  tail,  not  tipped  with  white. 

Among  the  McruJida'  or  thrushes  we  may  here  mention 
the  rejiresentative  of  our  water-ouzel,  the  American  dip- 
per {Cincfns  Amej'kavu.s).  Although  ascertained  by  Mr 
W.  Bullock  to  be  an  inhabitant  of  ^lexico,  and  obtained 
by  Mr  Drummond  on  the  eastern  declivity  of  the  Rocky 

»  Of  Mexico. 


3nn 


NATIHAL  IIISTOllV. 


Mountains,  near  the  sources  of  the  Athahasca  Hiver,  it 
does  not  yet  ajjpear  to  have  heeii  (leteeted  in  tlie  in- 
ti'nne(Uate  re}2;i()ns  of  the  I'nited  States.  Aeeonhng  t^) 
Jionaparte,  this  s])eeies  measures  ei;^h^  inches  and  a  lialf. 
It  is  consc(juently  ion^'er  than  tlie  Kur()j)ean  (hi)|)er  or 
water-crow.  'I'he  general  j)hiniage  is  dark-grayish  slate- 
colour.  Tiie  legs  and  feet  are  Hesh-colour.  We  as  yet 
know  nothing  of  the  hahits  of  the  American  species,  hut 
its  I'uropean  congener  dwells  single  or  in  pairs  hy  the 
side  of  clear  and  swift-running  streams.  It  walks  under 
water  in  search  of  prey,  wading  in  from  the  shore,  and 
remaining  for  some  time  suhmerged." 

The  hird  called  rohiti  in  America  is  the  red-hreasted 
thrush  of  Pennant  (  7'/<;v/^/.v  711  i(/r(i tori n.s).  It  is  one  of 
tlieir  hest  known  and  earliest  songsters.  While  the 
fields  are  yet  dappled  with  snow,  they  are  seen  in  flocks, 
and  some  few  lively  aspirants  will  even  then  mount  to 
tlie  top  of  a  post,  and  make  attemj)ts  at  song.  As  the 
w?ason  advances  their  notes  are  universally  heard,  and  as 
universally  heloved,  and  are  regarded  as  the  "  })relusive 
symphony"  to  the  great  concert  whicli  is  ahout  to  hurst 
ere  long  from  numerous  hills,  from  every  thicket,  wood, 
and  fieiil.  Although  regarded  with  nuich  of  the  same 
feeling  as  that  which  we  ourselves  entertain  towards  our 
own  household  hird,  the  red-hreast,  they  are,  nevertheless, 
])rought  to  market  in  great  numl)ers,  and  Wilson  mentions 
tliat  in  the  month  of  .January  1S07,  two  young  men  shot 
.30  dozen  in  a  single  excursion.  This  s[)ecies  inhahits  the 
whole  of  North  America  from  Hudson's  IJay  to  Xootka 
Sound,  and  as  far  south  as  Georgia,  though  they  are  said 
rarely  to  hreed  on  this  side  the  mountains  farther  south 
tlh,!  Virginia.  "  Within  the  Arctic  Circle,"  Dr  Uichanj. 
son  has  heautifully  ohserved,  "  the  woods  are  silent  in  the 
bright  hght  of  noonday  ;  hut  towards  midnight,  wlicii 
tlie  sun  travels  near  the  horizon,  and  the  shades  of  the 
forest  are  lengthened,  the  concert  commences,  and  con- 

*  While  engag'ed  in  the  rorreition  of  these  sheets  for  tlie 
j)ress  we  have  been  favoiired  hy  Sir  WilHam  .lardiiie  with  a  i'ti|iy 
of  his  yet  unpuhlished  edition  of  Wilson's  Ameriian  Ornitlioloir.v- 
Many  vahiahle  notes  have  been  appended  hv  the  editor  to  ilhistrati' 
tlie  {j^eneral  distribntion  of  tlios'-  yroiips,  of  whidi  tliere  are  Ameri- 
can r  'i)resontatives.  The  se.pplen»entary  vohnnes  by  C.  L.  Hoim- 
pai"*''  are  iiii'luded ;  and  most  of  the  new  sjieeies  discovered  or  de- 
scrii)ed  by  Messrs  Swainson,  Richardson,  and  Audubon,  are  like- 
wise inserted  or  referred  to. 


nsca  lliver,  it 
'(I  in  tlie  ill- 
Accord  i  up;  to 
2s  and  a  half, 
■an  dipper  or 
grayish  slatc- 
.  We  as  yet 
;ii  species,  but 
pairs  by  the 
t  walks  under 
he  shore,  and 

red-breasted 
It  is  one  of 
While   the 
seen  in  Hocks, 
len  mount  to 
mv^.     As  the 
heard,  and  as 
he  "  prelusive 
bout  to  burst 
thicket,  wood, 
I  of  the  same 
1  towards  our 
,  nevertheless, 
son  mentions 
unj:;  men  shot 
s  inhabits  the 
lay  to  Nootka 
tliey  are  said 
farther  south 
I)r  Richanl- 
•e  silent  in  the 
(blight,  when 
hades  of  tho 
.•es,  and  con- 
sheets   for  the 
lie  with  a  copy 
III  Oniithnlo^'-y. 
itur  to  illiistrati' 
lere  are  Aiiii'ri- 
hy  C.  L.  IJoiKi- 
seovered  or  de- 
luboiij  are  liko- 


iMuns. 


3(i7 


tinucs  till  six  or  seven  in  the  morninj;.  Kven  in  those 
remote  re;^ions  tlu'  mistake  of  those  naturalists  who  have 
asserted  that  the  feathered  tribes  of  America  arc  void  of 
liarniony  might  l)e  fully  disproved.  Indeed  the  transition 
is  so  sudden  from  the  |»erfect  repose,  the  (leathlike  silence 
of  an  Arctic  winter,  to  the  animated  bustle  of  summer ; 
the  trees  spread  their  foliage  with  such  magical  rapidity, 
and  every  succeeding  morning  opens  with  such  agreeable 
accessions  of  feathered  songsters  to  swell  the  chorus — their 
plumage  as  gay  and  imimpaired  as  when  tliey  eidiveiietl 
the  <leep  green  forests  of  tropical  clinu's— that  the  return 
of  a  northern  sjjring  excites  in  the  mind  a  deep  feeling 
of  the  beauties  of  the  season,  a  sense  of  the  bounty  and 
[)rovidence  of  the  Supreme  Ileing,  which  is  cheaply  pur- 
chased by  the  tedium  of  nine  uionths  of  winter.  The 
most  verdant  lawns  and  cultivated  glades  of  Kurope,  tlie 
most  beautiful  [)r()ductions  of  art,  fail  in  producing  that 
exhilaration  and  joyous  buoyancy  of  mind  which  we  have 
experienced  in  treading  the  wilds  of  Arctic  America,  when 
their  snowy  covering  has  bee!i  just  rej)laced  by  an  infant 
hut  vigorous  vegetation.  It  is  im[)ossible  for  the  traveller 
to  refrain,  at  such  moments,  from  joiinng  his  aspirations 
to  the  song  which  every  creature  around  is  pouring  forth 
to  the  (ireat  Creator."  This  is  tinely  said,  and  loses  noiie 
of  its  force  as  [jroceeding  from  the  pen  of  one  not  given 
to  affect  a  sickly  sentimentalism,  but  who  has  ever  had  to 
do  more  with  the  practice  than  the  poetry  of  Ufe  and  nature. 
In  a  similar  strain  so  also  \vrote  the  divine  Milton, — but 
to  whom  the  freshness  of  spring,  the  assured  mantle  of 
the  glorious  sununer,  and  the  varied  sir-Iendour  of  the  far- 
sj)reading  autumnal  forests,  were  then  only  as  visions  of 
the  past — 

"  So  thick  a  drop  serene 
Had  (juenchM  his  orbs,  or  dim  surtusion  veil'd." 

Of  many  beautiful  and  interesting  species  of  the  family  of 
die  Sijli'iadu-  which  enliven  the  countries  of  our  i)resent 
iiKjuiry,  we  shall  confine  our  observations  to  the  blue-birds. 

The  common  blue-liird  {Sduicola  ^iali.'i,  Bon.,  Erytluiva 
Wiliionil,  Swain.)  has  the  whole  of  the  upper  plumage  of 
a  line  blue,  while  the  throat,  neck,  breast,  and  Hanks,  are 
liright  orange-brown.  The  general  character  and  movements 
of  this  bird  resemble  those  of  the  European  redbreast,  and 
he  is  himself  as  familiarly  known  in  summer  to  the  chil- 


:U5H 


NATl  HAL  IlISTOHY. 


dicn  (»t'  Aincricii,  as  the  rohiii  is  to  ourselves  in  tlie  wiutei 
>ieas()ii.  Wilson  informs  us  tliat  the  society  of  tlie  hhie- 
hird  is  iiiueli  courted  1)V  the  inliahitants  oi'  the  country, 
and  tluit  few  farmers  neglect  to  ])ro\  ide  for  him  a  snu^^ 
httle  summer-liouse,  ready  Htted  and  rent-i'ree.  He  is 
mi;j;ratory  ovi-r  tlie  northern  districts,  hut  a  few  remain 
throughout  the  winter  in  some  parts  of  the  United  States. 
A  iiewly-discovered  species,  nearly  allied  to  the  jire- 
eediiifz,  is  named  hy  Mr  Swainson  the  Arctic  hlue-hin! 
{I'!ri/f/i(ifn  Arrticd).  Its  colour  is  a  fine  ultramarine 
hlue  ahove,  heneath  greenish-hlue,  and  whitish  on  tlu 
lower  part  of  the  ahdonieii  and  undir  tail-coverts.  'I'lu 
only  sj)ecimen  procur-'d  hy  the  overland  expedition  was 
shot  at  Fort  l-'ranklin  in  .luly  1H'^.>.  It  is  merely  a  sum- 
mer visiter  of  the  fur-coimtiii;-,,  and  no  knowledge  of  its 
haunts  or  hahits  has  been  yet  obtained. 

To  ilhistrate  theylm/W/VAr  we  shall  merely  mention  tlu 
American  cedar-bird,  or  chatterer  of  ("aiolina,  as  it  was 
called  by  Kdwards  {Jiovihi/ci/h  Ainvricaiia).  This  bin! 
was  regarded  by  the  naturalists  of  last  century  as  a  mere 
variety  of  the  luiropean  or  Bohemian  chatterer.  It  is 
however  a  distinct  species,  of  smaller  size,  and  lias  no 
white  upon  the  wings ;  the  chin  has  less  black,  and  the 
bill  is  shorter  and  somewhat  broader.  The  Kurojjean 
bird  has  also  been  detected  in  North  America  by  Mr 
Drummond  and  l)r  Richardson. 

The  well-known  snow-bunting  {Embcriza  nivalis) 
is  common  to  the  New  and  Old  World.  '^  Near  the  large 
grave,"  says  Captain  Lyon,  ''  was  a  third  pile  of  stoms 
covering  the  body  of  a  child  which  was  coiled  up  in  tlu 
same  manner.  A  snow-bunting  had  found  its  way  througl 
the  loose  stones  which  composed  this  little  tomb,  and  its 
now  forsaken,  neatly  built  nest,  was  found  placed  on  tlu 
neck  of  the  child.  As  the  snow-bunting  has  all  the  do- 
mestic virtues  of  our  English  redbreast,  it  has  always 
been  considered  by  us  as  tlie  robin  of  these  dreary  wilds, 
and  its  lively  chirp  and  fearless  confidence  have  rendered 
it  resj)ected  by  the  most  hungry  sportsman.  I  could  not 
on  this  occasion  view  its  little  nest  placed  on  the  breast  of 
infancy,  rvithout  wishing  that  1  possessed  the  power  of 
poetically  expressing  the  feelings  it  excited."*     The  bold 


*  Narrative  of  an  Attempt  to  reach  Repulse  Bay. 


in  till*  wiiiter 
of  the  hlik'- 
tlie  country. 
r  iiiin  n  snup 
tVcr.  lie  IS 
a  few  remain 
^nited  States. 
1  to  tlie  pre- 
•tic  hliie-l)ir(l 
,'  ultrainariiH 
hitisli  on  tlu 
■overts.  Tilt 
xpedition  wa'; 
nerely  a  siiin- 
jwledge  of  its 


y  mention  tlu 
ina,  as  it  was 
).  This  bini 
ury  as  a  mere 
atterer.  It  is 
;,  and  lias  no 
lack,  and  tlu 
he  European 
nerica  by  Mr 

?'j.ra   nira/is) 

Near  the  large 

pile  of  stonii' 

iled  up  in  tlu 

way  througi 

tomb,  and  its 

)laced  on  tlu 

las  all  the  do- 

t  has  always 

dreary  wild^-. 

lave  rendered 

I  could  not 

the  breast  ot 

tbe  power  of 

■      The  bold 

!e  Bav. 


iilliDs. 


HtiU 


navigator  may  rest  assured  that  his  sinij)le  recital  of  this 
circumstance  is  much  more  eflective  and  />/r7o;'m/than  if  iu 
had  had  recourse  to  a  rhyming  (hctionary.  The  Lapland 
huntinp;  {E.  Ldpixniica)  is  also  found  in  the  northern 
regions  of  both  continents  ;  and  a  beautiful  specii's,  iuarl> 
allied  to  it,  the  painti'd  bunting  (  I'/rrtroji/inncs  i>irtn  o\ 
Swainson),  was  lately  discovered  on  the  banks  of  the 
Saskatchawan.  For  the  history  and  description  of  these. 
,us  well  as  of  many  beautiful  larks  and  finches,  we  must 
refer  the  reader  to  the  works  already  mentioned. 

The  pine-grosbeak  { ]\i/n'lii(/(i  rnnc/rntor)  is  tlu 
largest  of  the  bullfinch  tribe.  It  measures  above  eleve'i 
inches  in  length.  Of  tiie  grosbeaks,  [)roperly  so  called 
(genus  Otccothranstcn),  the  gayest  and  most  remarkabK 
is  cidled  the  evening-grosbeak  (('.  vt'.sjirrt'nui,  Hon.).  It 
is  a  common  inhabitant  of  the  maple-groves  which  adorn 
the  plains  of  the  Saskatchawan,  and  is  known  to  the 
natjves  by  the  name  of  siri^mhustiK it-/K'f/iai/fii.sli ,  which, 
iK'iiig  interjireted,  signiries  sugar-bird.  According  to  Mr 
Swainson's  views,  this  is  the  only  genuine  species  of  tlu 
genus  hitherto  discovered  in  America.  We  owe  it  to  tlu 
observance  of  Mr  Coo{)er.* 

The  scarlet  tanager  ( Tduatjra  riihm)  is  one  of  the  most 
brilliant  of  those  southern  species  which  during  the  summer 
migration  shed  their  lustre  over  more  northern  lands.  Tlu 
whole  plumage,  with  the  exception  of  the  wings  and  tail, 
is  of  the  most  vivid  carmine-red.  'I'he  wing-coverts, 
jiosterior  secondaries,  and  middle  tail-feathers  are  black, 
and  form  a  rich  contrast  to  the  other  jiortions  of  tlu 
plumage.  After  the  autumnal  moult,  the  male  becomes 
dappled  witli  greenish-yellow.  The  iilumage  of  the  fe- 
iiKile  is  green  above  and  yellow  below  ;  her  wings  and 
tail  are  brownish-black,  edged  with  green.  Though  this 
^)ecies  sometimes  builds  in  orchan's,  and  visits  tht 
cherry-trees  for  the  sake  of  their  fruit,  it  does  not  fre- 
quently approach  the  habitations  of  man,  but  prefers  tlu 
solitutle  of  tbe  umbrageous  woods.  In  addition  to  fruits 
its  food  consists  of  large  winged  insects,  such  as  wasps, 
hornets,  and  humble  bees.  The  scarlet  tanager  is  as  yet  un- 
known beyond  the  forty-ninth  parallel,  and  so  comes  jus: 
within  the  southern  limits  of  the  fur-countries.     The  foi- 

*  Ann.  Lyci  New  Yuik,  \ol.  i.  p.  '2'20, 


no 


\ATrn.\f,  iii«5nmv 


lowing  intorcstinp  narrative  is  given  by  Ali'Xiin<lcr  Wil- 
son : — "Passing  tlirougli  an  onhard  one  morning,  I 
eanght  one  of  these  young  l)inls,  that  had  hut  hitely  left 
the  nest.  I  carricvl  it  with  niealM)ut  iuilt'  a  mile,  to  show 
it  to  my  friend  .Mr  William  JJartram  ;  and  having  |)ro- 
eured  a  eage,  hung  it  up  on  one  of  the  large  pine-trees  in 
the  hotanic  garden,  within  a  few  feet  of  the  nest  of  an 
orehard-oriole,  whieh  also  eontained  young,  hojieful  that 
tile  eharity  or  tenderness  of  the  orioles  would  indueetheiii 
to  supply  the  eravings  of  the  stranger,  liut  eharity  with 
them,  as  with  too  many  of  the  lunnan  race,  began  and 
ended  at  home.  'I'he  poor  orjihan  was  altogether  ne- 
glected, notwithstanding  its  plaintive  cries ;  and  as  it  re- 
fused  to  he  i'cd  hy  me,  I  was  about  to  return  it  hack  U 
the  place  where  I  fvumd  it,  when,  towards  the  afternoon, 
a  scarlet  tanager,  no  doubt  its  own  |)arent,  was  seen  Hut- 
lering  round  the  cage  endeavouring  to  get  in.  Findint; 
this  impracticable,  he  Hew  off  and  soon  returned  with 
food  in  Ins  bill,  and  contiiuied  to  i'vc(\  it  till  after  sunsit 
taking  up  his  lodgings  in  the  higher  l)ranches  of  t*'L' saint 
tree.  In  the  morning,  almost  as  soon  as  day  broke,  lu 
was  again  seen  most  actively  engaged  in  the  same  affec- 
tionate manner  ;  and,  notwithstainling  the  insolence  of  tik 
orioles,  continued  his  benevolent  offices  the  whole  dav. 
roosting  at  night  as  before.  On  the  third  or  fourth  da} 
lie  appeared  extremely  solicitous  for  the  liberation  of  hi- 
charge,  using  every  exi)ression  of  distressful  anxiety,  and 
every  call  and  invitation  that  nature  had  put  in  his  j)owcr 
for  him  to  come  out.  This  was  too  much  for  the  fcrl- 
ings  of  my  venerable  friend  ;  he  procured  a  ladder,  and, 
mounting  to  the  sj)ot  where  the  bird  was  suspended, 
opened  the  cage,  took  out  the  prisoner,  and  restored  liiii! 
to  liberty  and  to  his  jiareiit,  who,  with  notes  of  great  ex- 
ultation,  accompanied  his  flight  to  the  woods.  The  haji- 
piness  of  my  good  friend  was  scarcely  less  comjilete,  ami 
showed  itself  in  his  benevolent  countenance  ;  and  I  coulil 
not  refrain  saying  to  myself — if  such  sweet  sensatioib 
can  be  derived  from  a  simple  circumstance  of  this  kind 
bow  excjuisite,  how  unsjieakably  rapturous,  must  the  di- 
light  of  those  individuals  have  been,  who  bave  rescue*! 
their  fellow-beings  from  death,  chairis,  antl  imprisonment, 
and  restored  them  to  the  arms  of  their  friends  and  rela- 
tions !  Surely  in  such  godlike  actions  virtue  is  its  own 


lilHDS. 


M\ 


'xandcr  Wil- 

inornin^,    1 

lut  lately  li't't 

iiilo,  to  show 

having  pro- 

j)iiie-trct's  ii: 

11-  lU'St  of  an 

,  hopeful  that 

I  induce  thfiii 
t  eharity  with 
e,  hegaii  and 
iltogetlier  lu- 
;  and  as  it  re- 
urn  it  haek  U 
the  afternoon, 
was  seen  Hut- 
;  in.  Finding' 
returned  with 

II  after  sunsit 
lesof  t'^esann 
day  hroke,  lu 
le  same  atfec- 
nsolenee  of  tin 
he  whole  day, 
or  fourth  (la\ 
l)eration  of  liN 
d  anxiety,  and 
It  in  his  powir 
1  for  the  feel- 

a  ladder,  and, 
as  suspended, 
restored  hiii! 
es  of  great  t\- 
(Is.  The  halt, 
i  coin])lete,  ain' 
and  I  coiilil 
,veet  sensation;^ 
of  this  kind. 
must  the  iW- 
have  rescuei! 
imprisonment, 
lends  and  rela- 
tue  is  its  owr. 


e 


) 


most  ahimdant  reward  !"*  Nevertlieless,  as  practical  orni- 
tholctgy  can  hy  no  means  fiourish  without  powder  and 
shot,  Wilson  contimii'd  to  knock  down  as  many  hirds  as 
he  re(|uired,  —  and  they  were  many, — for  the  space  of  se- 
veral succeetling  years.  Alas  !  that  the  latter  were  so  few. 

More  allied  to  tile  starling  trihe  is  a  hird  remarkahle 
for  the  singularity  of  its  hahits,  calKd  the  cowpen  or 
cuckoo-hunting  {lunhcrizd  furori.s  of  Wilson),  classe<l 
hy  Mr  Swainson  in  the  gemis  Mo/of/ini.t.  It  visits  tht; 
fur-coimtries  in  May,  and,  aftir  ranging  as  far  north  as 
the  sixtieth  parallel,  it  departs  in  Septend)er,  and  collecting 
in  large  Hocks  during  the  ensuing  month  in  I'eiuisylvania. 
it  finally  retires  to  winter-ipiarters  in  Mexico  and  the 
most  southern  parts  of  the  Tiiited  .States.  It  fee«ls  on 
grain,  grass,  and  worms,  and  is  fret|Ui'ntly  seen  perched 
t'amiliarly  on  the  hacks  of  cattle.  Hut  the  most  remark- 
I'.hle  trait  in  the  character  of  this  sj)ecies  is  its  practice 
(like  that  of  our  own  cuckoo)  of  laying  its  eggs  in  tlu- 
nests  of  other  hirds,  and  ahandoning  its  future  offspring 
to  the  care  of  strangers.  The  yellow-throat  and  red-eyed 
fly-catcher  are  most  fre(|Uently  selected  to  perform  the 
office  of  foster-parents. 

Passing  over  the  rice-hird,  the  lialtimore  oriole,  the 
|)urple  grakle,  and  others  of  the  Stiirnidr,  we  :  all  here 
l)riefly  notice  the  family  of  Crows.  The  raven  {Corrii^ 
roni.r),  which  occurs  in  all  the  four  (juarters  of  the  glohe, 
isahundant  in  the  fur-countries,  and  the  ca  rion-crow  (('. 
Connie)  also  occurs  there,  hut  ajipears  to  he  oi'  a  less 
hardy  nature,  as  it  is  seen  in  the  interior  in  sununer  only, 
and  does  not  seem  to  a[)i)roach  within  .>()()  or  »i()()  miles 
of  Hudson's  Bay.  The  magpie  {C.  pint)  is  as  common 
in  the  prairie  lands  of  America  as  it  is  in  Europe.  Seve- 
ral heautiful  jays  likewise  occur  in  North  America. 

We  come  next  to  the  wood])eckers,  which  are  luimerous 
and  witlely  sj)rea(l  over  the  American  continent,  as  might 
beexpectedin  connexion  with  the  vast  forests  *vith  which 
so  nuich  of  the  country  is  still  encund)ered.  The  ivory- 
billed  woodpecker  {Pints priiirijKi/is)  is  undouhtedly  the 
most  magnificent  of  the  genus.      While  many    of  the 

"  American  OrnitliDlogy,  vol.  ii.  p.  230, 


?.12 


NATUJIAL  mSTOUV 


smaller  kinds  seek  tlieir  prey  in  the  orcliard  or  shrubbery, 
anionj;  rails,  Tenees,  or  ])rostrate  lo}z;s,  the  present  sj)ecies 
inhabit  the  most  towernip;  trees  of  the  forest,  "  seeming 
particularly  attached  to  those  prodifjjious  cypress  swamps, 
whose  crowded  {jjiant  sons  stretch  their  bare  and  blasted, 
or  inoss-hunp;  arms,  midway  to  the  skies.  In  these  al- 
THOst  inaccessible  recesses,  amid  ruinous  piles  of  impend- 
iiiii,  timber,  his  trumpet-like  notes  and  loud  strokes  re- 
sound throuLdi  the  solitary  savage  wilds,  of  which  lif 
seems  the  sole  lord  and  master."  'J'he  food  of  this  species, 
."Mr  Audubon  informs  us,  consists  chiefly  of  l)eetles,  larvie, 
and  large  grubs.  No  sooner,  however,  are  the  grapes  of 
the  forest  rii)ened,  than  they  are  eaten  by  the  ivory-billed 
woodj)ecker  with  great  avidity.  "  I  have  seen  this  ])ird," 
says  the  last-named  excellent  observer,  "  hang  by  its  claws 
to  the  vines,  in  the  position  so  often  assumed  by  a  tit- 
mouse, and,  reaching  downwards,  lielp  itself  to  a  bunch 
of  gra})es  with  nuich  apparent  pleasure."*  Although  wi- 
have  introduced  a  notice  of  this  tine  species,  we  are  not 
aware  that  it  extends  so  far  to  the  north  as  the  countries 
with,  wiiich  we  are  at  j)resent  engaged.  It  is,  however. 
well  known  in  many  of  thj  Fnited  States.  A  nuich  mori 
northern  species  is  the  three-toed  woodpecker  ( /-*.  tridar- 
tjiln.s  of  Swainson),  wliich  exists  in  all  the  forests  ot 
s|)ruce-iir  that  lie  })etween  Lake  Superior  and  the  Arctie 
Sea.  It  is  the  most  r-onnnon  of  the  sj)ecies  that  occur  to 
the  north  of  CJreat  Slave  Lake. 


The  varieties  of  the  eathered  race  are  inexhaustible. 
Kach  tril)e  and  family  contains  many  familiar  and  well- 
remembered  si)ecies,  on  the  history  of  which  we  could 
dilate  with  pleasure ;  Imt  we  nmst  of  necessity  leavt 
even  the  names  of  many  unrecorded.  Two  frail  and 
fairy  beings,  however,  seemingly  of  too  dehcate  a  fabric 
to  withstand  the  rudeness  of  the  northern  blasts,  now 
solicit  our  regard,  and  as  they  have  flown  far  to  obtain  it, 
we  nmst  here  insert  a  compendious  history  of  the  North 
American  humming-birds.  3Ieanwhile  let  us  borrow  thi 
words  of  the  enthusiastic  Audubon.  They  apply  to  tlit. 
ruby-ihroated  sjjecies  (^T'rochilus  coluhrh',  Linn.).  "  No 
sooner  has  the  returning  sun  again  introduced  the  vernal 
.season,  and  caused  millions  of  plants  to  expand  their  leavt"- 

*  Ornitholojrical  Bio^raijhy,  vol.  i.  p.  314. 


ar  shrubbery, 
resent  s})ec'ies 
St,  "  seeinin<^ 
iress  swamps, 
i  and  blasted, 

In  these  al- 
3s  of  impend- 
nd  strokes  re- 
of  which  Ik' 
)fthis  species, 
beetles,  larvie, 
:  the  grapes  of 
le  ivory-billed 
}en  this  bn-d," 
iig  by  its  claws 
ime(l  by  a  tit- 
elf  to  a  bunch 

Although  wc 
ies,  we  are  not 
s  tlie  countries 
t  is,  however, 

A  nuich  niort 
cer  (i-*-  tridiu:- 
the  forests  o) 
and  the  Arctie 
s  that  occur  to 


inexhaustible, 
iliar  and  well- 
lich  we  coul(i 
necessity  leavt 
rwo  frail  and 
elicate  a  fabric 
rn  blasts,  now 
'iir  to  obtain  it. 
of  the  North 
t  us  borrow  the 
cy  apply  to  tlu 
Linn.).  "  No 
jced  the  vernal 
and  their  leave- 

314. 


nmn.-s. 


.S7:J 


and  blossoms  to  his  giMiial  beams,  than  the  little  huiii- 
ining-bird  is  seen  advancing  on  fairy  wings,  carefully 
visiting  every  opening  iiower-cuj),  and,  like  a  curious 
Horist,  removing  from  each  the  injurious  insects  that 
otherwise  would  ere  long  cause  their  l)e.iuteous  j)etals  to 
droop  and  decay.  Poised  in  the  air,  it  is  observed  peep- 
ing cautiously  and  with  sparkling  eye  into  their  inner- 
most recesses,  whilst  the  ethereal  motions  of  its  pinions, 
so  rapid  and  so  light,  a})pear  to  fan  and  cool  the  Howtr 
without  injuring  its  fragile  texture,  and  j)ro(luce  a  <1(- 
lightful  nnu-nmring  sound,  well  adapted  for  lulling  tlu' 
insects  to  repose.  Then  is  the  moment  for  the  humming- 
bird to  secure  them.  Its  long  delicate  bill  enters  the  cup 
of  the  flower,  and  the  j)rotruded  doulile-tuhed  tongue, 
delicately  sensible,  and  imbued  with  a  glutinous  saliva, 
touches  each  insect  in  succession,  and  draws  it  from  its 
lurking-])lace  to  be  instantly  swallowed.  Ail  this  is  doui- 
in  a  moment,  and  the  bird,  as  it  leaves  the  Hower,  sips  so 
small  a  portion  of  its  liquid  honey,  that  die  theft,  we  may 
suppose,  is  looked  upon  with  a  grateful  feeling  by  the 
flower,  which  is  thus  kindly  relieved  from  the  attacks  of 
her  destroyers. 

"  The  prairies,  the  orchards,  and  gardens,  nay,  the 
deepest  shades  of  the  forest,  are  all  visited  in  their  turn, 
and  every  where  the  little  bird  meets  with  pleasure  and 
with  food.  Its  gorgeous  throat  in  ])eauty  and  brilliancy 
baffles  all  competition.  Now  it  glows  with  a  fiery  hue. 
and  again  it  is  changed  to  the  deepest  velvety  black.  TIk' 
upper  parts  of  its  delicate  body  are  of  resplendent  chang- 
ing green,  and  it  throws  itself  through  the  air  with  a 
swiftness  and  vivacity  hardly  conceivable.  It  moves  from 
one  flower  to  another  like  a  gleam  of  light,  upwards,  down- 
wards, to  the  right,  and  to  the  left.  In  this  manner  it 
searches  the  extreme  northern  i)ortions  of  our  country, 
following  with  greaL  precaution  the  advances  of  the  sea- 
son, and  retreats  with  equal  care  at  the  approach  of  au- 
tumn."* 

The  nest  of  this  species  is  formed  with  a  delicacy  pro- 
portioned to  its  tiny  inmates.  The  external  parts  consist 
of  a  light-gray  lichen  found  on  the  branches  of  trees  or  on 
decayed  fence-rails,  and  so  trimly  arranged  around  tlu' 
nest,  as  well  as  at  some  distance  from  the  spot  to  whidi 

*  Ornithological  Biography,  vol.  i.  p.  24l\. 


A7i- 


NATl  UAL  IIISTOHV. 


it  is  attached,  as  to  ap])CHr  like  a  portion  of  tlie  stem. 
These  little  i)ieces  of  lichen  are  j^iued  tO}!;ether,  as  some 
say,  with  the  saliva  of  the  hird.     The  next  layer  consists 
of  a  cottony  suhstance,  and  the  innermost  of  silky  fihres 
obtained  from  varions  plants,  hut  all  extremely  soft  and 
delicate.     In  this  sweet  receptacle  the  female  deposites  a 
sinj:;le  j)air  of  ep;}i:s,  pure  white,  and  of  an  almost  oval  form. 
A  \'irpnian  p;entleman  kept  two  of  these  creatures  in  a 
caji;e  for  several  months.    lie  !,upj)lied  them  with  a  mixture 
of  lioney  and  water.   On  this  they  appeared  to  feed  ;  but  as 
the  sweet  and  viscous  licjuid  hrouglit  many  small  flies  about 
the  civ^c,  the  humminj^-birds  were  seen  to  snap  at  and 
swallow  theinsects  with  j;reateajj;erness.    jNIr  V.  VV.  Peale 
also  succeeded  in  rearing  two  young  ones  from  the  nest. 
They  u.sed  to  fly  about  the  room,  and  would  frecpiently 
jXTch  on  JMrs  Peale's  shoulder.     Wilson  himself  took  a 
nest  in  the  summer  of  lS();i,  the  inhabitants  of  which 
were  just  about  to  fly;  indeed  one  of  them  flew  out  by 
the  window  that  same  evening,  and,  striking  against  n 
wall,  was  killed.     The  other  refused  food,  and  was  scarce- 
ly alive  next  morning,     A  lady,  however,  undertook  to 
nurse  it,  and  dissolving  a  little  sugar  in  her  mouth,  she 
thrust  in  the  bird's  bill,  which  immediately  sucked  with 
great  avidity.     It  was  kept  for  three  months,  and  daily 
supplied  with  loaf-sugar  dissolved  in  water.    Fresh  flowers 
were  also  scattered  every  moiuing  around  its  food  ;  and  in 
this  way  it  appeared  gay,  active,  and  full  of  spirits,  and 
hovered  from  flower  to  flower  as  if  in  its  natural  state.     It 
never  failed  to  express,  both  by  a  peculiar  motion  and  a 
chirping  voice,  the  greatest  pleasure  when  its  supply  of 
flowers  was  introduced  into  the  cage.     It  became  the  ad- 
miration of  all  beholders,  and  sanguine  hopes  were  enter- 
tained that  it  might  have  been  preserved  throughout  the 
winter ;  but  unfortunately  it  one  day  got  at  large,  and  fly- 
ing about  the  room  in  a  more  excited  manner  than  usual, 
it  injured  itself  in  such  a  way  as  to  die  soon  after.*     The 
species  to  which  these  observations  apply  ranges  during 
the  summer  season  as  far  to  the  north  as  the  57th  parallel. 
Dr  Richardson  found  it  on  the  plains  of  the  Saskatcha- 
wan,  and  Mr  Drummond  discovered  its  nest  near  the 

•  In  addition  t<»  the  writings  of  Wilson  .ind  Andubon,  consult. 
for  a  knowlodL;;e  of  llu>  history  and  habits  of  humming-birds,  Mi 
Bullock's  "  Six  Months  inMexico,"  and  M.  Lesson's  "  Histoire 
des  Oiacaux  Mouches." 


niRD'S. 


375 


of  the  stem, 
"ther,  as  souk- 
layer  consists 
)!'  silky  fibres 
iiely  soft  and 
lie  (leposites  a 
ost  oval  form, 
creatures  in  a 
vith  a  mixture 
ofeed  ;  but  as 
nail  flies  about 
I  snap  at  anil 
r  t\  \V.  Peak 
from  the  nest, 
ild  fre(iuently 
limself  took  u 
mts  of  which 
n  flew  out  by 
ciMg  against  a 
nd  was  scarce- 
undertook  to 
ir  mouth,  she 
y  sucked  with 
ths,  and  daily 
Fresh  flowers 
s  food  ;  and  in 
)f  spirits,  and 
ural  state.     It 
motion  and  a 
1  its  supply  of 
lecame  the  ad- 
»es  were  enter- 
h  rough  out  the 
large,  and  fly- 
ler  than  usual, 
1  after.*     The 
ranges  during 
e  57th  parallel, 
the  Saskatcha- 
nest  near  the 

ui'.Uihon,  consult, 
umin^-birds,  Mi 
son's  "  Histoirt' 


sources  of  the  Elk  River.  This  was  composed  chiefly  of 
tile  down  of  an  anemone,  hound  together  i)y  a  lew  stalks 
of  moss  and  hits  of  lichen,  and  had  an  internd  (Uameter 
of  one  inch. 

The  other  species  to  which  we  alluded  above  was  first 
observed  by  our  illustrious  navigator  Cook,  on  the  barren 
.shores  of  Nootka  Sound.  It  is  the  rufflnecked  hunnning- 
liird  {Trochilu;-!  eolltwifi  of  Latliam,  and  the  Trorhilus 
rufun  of  Gmelin).  It  is  a  superb  species,  and  ranges  to 
the  southwards  at  least  as  far  as  the  table-land  of  ^lexico, 
near  Real  del  iVIonte  ;  from  which  locality  s|)ecimens  are 
preserved  in  the  unrlvaUed  collection  of  Mr  Loddiges.  It 
was  traced  by  Kotzebue  along  the  Pacific  shores  as  far  as  the 
sixty-first  parallel.  The  migration  of  birds  has  in  every  age 
afforded  a  subject  of  pleasing  speculation  to  the  admirers 
of  the  never-ending  wonders  of  the  natural  world  ;  but 
in  no  instance  does  it  more  freely  excite  our  admiration 
than  when  manifested  by  creatures  so  frail,  and  fantasti- 
cally attired  in  hues 

"  Wliich  make  the  rose'.s  blu.sh  of  heanly  [)<ilo, 
And  dim  the  ricli  j^enuiium\s  scark't  blaze." 

Of  the  long- winged  and  most  aerial  of  the  feathered 
race,  the  swallow  tribe,  many  beautiful  species  inhabit 
America.     We  shall  here  notice  only  the  white-fronted  or 
cHff-swallow  {HiriDido  lunifron.soi'Sny),  (Uscovered  near 
the  Rocky  ]\Iountains  by  .Major  Long.     It  was  seen  in 
great  numbers  by  Sir  John  Franklin's  party  in  1S2(>, 
while  travelling  from  Cumberland  House  to  Fort  Enter- 
prise.    Its  clustered  nests  are  fretjuent  on  the  faces  of 
the  rocky  cliffs  of  the  Barren  Grounds,  and  a  mnnber  of 
them  made  their  first  appearance  at  Fort  Chipewyan  on 
the  ^oth  of  June  IH'25,  and  immediately  built  their  nestt: 
under  the  eaves  of  the  dwelling-house,  which  are  not  more 
tlian  six  feet  above  a  balcony  that  extended  the  whole 
length  of  the  building,  and  was  a  constant  promenade. 
"  They  had  thus  to  graze  the  heads  of  the  passengers  on 
entering  their  nests,  and  were  moreover  exposed  to  the 
curiosity  and  depredations  of  the  children,  to  whom  they 
were  novelties ;  yet  they  preferred  the  dwelling-house  to 
the  more  lofty  eaves  of  the  storehouses,  and  in  the  fol- 
lowing season  returned  with  augmented  numbers  to  the 
same  spot.     Fort  Chipewyan  has  existed  for  many  years, 
and  trading-posts,  though  far  distant  from  each  other. 


.3?<) 


NATl  UATi  lirSTOUV. 


have  l)ccn  cstablislied  in  the  fur-countries  for  a  century 
and  a  half;  yet  this,  as  far  as  I  could  learn,  is  the  first 
instance  of  this  species  of  swallow  placinij;  itself  under  the 
protection  of  man  within  the  widely-extended  lands  north 
of  the  Cireat  Lakes.*  What  cause  couhl  have  thus  sud- 
<icnly  called  into  action  that  contidenccin  the  human  race 
with  which  the  Framer  of  the  Universe  has  endowed  this 
species,  in  connnon  with  others  of  the  swallow  tribe  ?"t 
This  s}iecies  is  very  widely  distributed,  it  was  transmit- 
ted to  Professor  Jameson  from  India  some  years  ajxo  by 
ciie  Marchioness  of  IIastin<;s. 

Passing;  over  the  goat-suckers  (genus  Caprimufgus), 
uhich  are  fre(juent  and  numerous  in  the  northern  regions  of 
America,  we  may  here  record  the  name  of  the  belted  king- 
fisher {A/cedo  Alr}i<)u,  Linn.)  as  the  sole  representative  in 
the  fur-countries  of  a  trii)e  very  widely  diffused  over  all  tltr 
icnown  regions  of  the  earth.  It  is  a  bird  of  passage,  and 
winters  as  far  south  as  the  \\''est  Indies,  although  it  also 
occurs  in  (Jeorgia  and  the  Floridas  during  that  season. 

A  more  numerous  and  much  more  important  family  of 
birds  (in  America)  are  the  Tctraoiiida'  or  grouse.  Nearly 
a  dozen  s})ecies  inhabit  the  fur-countries,  and  of  thest 
the  largest  and  most  remarkable  is  the  pheasant-tailed 
grouse  or  cock  of  the  plains  ( Tetrao  urojtluisianus,  lion.). 
The  flight  of  this  bird,  ]\Ir  Douglas  informs  us,  is  slow 
and  unsteady,  and  affords  but  little  amusement  to  the 
sportsman.  Its  wings  are  small,  and  but  feebly  feathered 
in  projjortion  to  the  size  of  the  bird,  which  measures  from 
rhirty-two  to  thirty-four  inches  in  length,  and  weighs  from 
six  to  eight  pounds.  Though  it  may  be  said  to  represent 
the  capercailzie  or  wood-grouse  (7\  iiro(jallus)  in  the 
New  World,  it  differs  in  this  respect,  that  it  never  perclies. 
Its  flesb  is  dark-coloured,  and  not  particularly  gootl  in 
point  of  flavour.;}: 


*  Tlip  late  j^'-'tveinor,  do  Witt  Clinton,  lias  u;ivon  a  very  interest- 
ing' liistiiry  of  tlie  closely-resenihlinjj;' species,  Ji./ii/rtr,  which  ahoiil 
sixteen  years  am)  l)egan  to  hiiild  its  nests  on  the  walls  of  houses  in 
file  Western  States,  and  has  every  succeeding'  sunnner  been  ad- 
\ancinj;- farther  to  the  eastwards.  Vide  Ann.  Lye,  New  York, 
vol.  i.  1).  l.^H. 

•j-  fauna  Boreali-Aniericana,  vol.  ii.  [).  'S'<i\. 

J  For  the  history  mid  description  of  the  oilier  American  grouse, 


for  a  century 
•n,  is  the  first 
:self  under  the 
,'(l  lands  north 
lave  tlius  sud" 
lie  lunnan  race 
;  endowed  this 
illow  trihe?"t 
was  transmit- 
!  years  ago  by 


Capriinn/gns), 
hern  regions  of 
le  belted  king- 
presentative  in 
sed  over  all  tin? 
)f  passage,  and 
though  it  also 
that  season. 

rtant  family  of 
ouse.     Nearly 

and  of  these 
)heasant-taile<l 
siaruis,  Bon.), 
ns  us,  is  slow 
sement  to  the 

■bly  feathered 
measures  from 
id  weighs  from 

1  to  represent 
mil  us)  in  the 
never  perclies. 
Lilarly  gootl  m 


II  very  interest- 
irir,  wiiicli  about 
alls  of  houses  in 
luniner  been  ad- 
,yc.,  New  York, 


Linencan  grouse, 


niitDS. 


3; 


I  I 


We  shall  clcse  our  account  of  American  land-bird?, 
connnoidy  so  called,  by  a  reference  to  the  passenger-pi- 
geon {C'o/tonhd  )ni;/rati»'i'i).  It  may  be  [)resinned  to  be 
sufficiently  conunon  in  America,  from  a  fact,  or  rather  a 
calculation,  given  by  Alexander  Wilson.  lie  estimated  a 
ilock  which  continued  to  pass  above  him  for  the  greater 
part  of  a  day  to  have  been  a  mile  in  breadth  and  '21()  mile<^ 
in  length,  and  to  have  contained  (three  birds  being  as- 
signetl  to  every  s(piare  yard)  at  least  two  thousand  two 
iiundred  and  thirty  millions,  two  hundred  and  seventy- 
two  thousand  pigeons  !*  Mr  Audubon  confirms  his  pre- 
decessor's account  by  a  narrative  still  more  extraonh- 
uary,t  and  adds,  that  as  every  pigeon  consumes  fully 
half  a  pint  of  food  (chiefly  mast),  tiie  (piantity  necessary 
for  supplying  Ins  flock  nnist  liave  amounted  to  eight  mil- 
lions seven  hundred  and  twelve  thousand  bushels  per  day  ! 
— an  expensive  duorot. 

Of  the  order  of  waders  {(i ntUntorcfi)  none  winter  in  the 
fur-countries.  They  generally  arrive  about  the  end  of 
April  and  beginning  of  May,  and  arc  driven  ")uthwards 
in  autumn  by  the  advance  of  winter,  and  its  MU'deiiing 
influence  upon  the  moist  grounds  and  swampy  shores, 
from  which  these  long-legged  gentry  draw  their  princi- 
pal support.  Wii  shall  rest  satisfied  by  furnishing  a  Ust 
(if  their  names  in  the  note  below.;}; 

lonsult  Mr  David  Dout^las'  paper  in  the  HItli  volume  of  the  Linn. 
Trans. ;  Professor  .Jameson's  edition  of  the  American  Ornithology, 
viil.  ii.  p.  ;{14,  and  vol.  iv.  pp.  1H!>,  U'2.") ;  the  second  volume  of  tlie 
Fauna  Boreaii-AnuMicana,  p.  Ii42 ;  and  my  own  "Illustrations  ot 
Z(»ologv,"  vol.  i.  plates  2(>,  'J7)  '^^^^  'ilj  and  corresponding^  letter- 
[Tess. 

•  See  vol.  ii.  p.  2!»;>. 

+  See  his  interestiujj^  historv  of  the  passenger-pigeon  in  the  first 
volume  of  the  "  Ornithological  Biograpny,"  p.  \^V^ — IJ'2(». 

XlUhc  sviwAcvVin^  {Calii Iris  are lutri It.,  IlliLfer);  American  ring- 
plover  (Clianiflriiis  seniipalmatus,  Bonap.);  kildeer-plover  ((/<. 
riiciferns,  Linn.);  golden-plover  (r//./j///r?^///.>.,  liinn.  ?);  gray  lap- 
v.Mnj,^(  Vuhfllu.s  nic/f/nof/dnter,  Bechst.) ;  turnstone  (Slrrpsi/us  in- 
t<  rjtrc^,  III');  whoo\)\n^-criine  (drns  .1  iiirrira na,  Temm.);  brown 
crane  ({,'.  ('unddrnsis,  Temm.);  great  heron  (Ardea  llerinlKus, 
Linn.);  American  bittern  {Ardea  leutif/iito.sa,  Alont.);  American 
nvosei  {Recareirostra  .Imrrirana,  Linn.);  long-billed  curlew 
[Xuiii' tlius  lonf/irosfris,  Wils.);  Hudsonian  curlew  (A'^.  liailsd' 
nicus.,  Lath.);  Esquimaux  curlew  (A^  Oureaiis,  Lath.);  Douglas' 
•^andpi()er  [Trinya  Duuglaaii.,  Swains.),  a  new  species  not  uuconi- 


378 


NATURAL  IIISTOUV. 


Of  the  still  more  extensive  order  of  Xntatorps,  or  web- 
footed  swimming-birds  {r<ihni/)C(l('s),  we  sliall  present 
only  a  few  brief  notices.  Birds  of  this  order  are  fully 
more  remarkable  for  the  texture  than  the  tints  of  tlieir 
plumage,  although  several  species  of  the  duck  tribe  are 
Hkewise  distinguished  by  considerable  briUiancy  of  colour. 
Destined  to  inhabit  the  seasliore,  and  the  banks  of  lakes 
and  rivers,  they  are  much  exposed  to  the  inclemencies  of 
the  weather,  and  their  feathers  are  providentially  ren- 
<lered  very  close  and  comi)act,  and  abundantly  imbued 
with  an  oily  secretion,  througli  which  they  become  im- 
jHjrmeable  by  moisture.  This  beautiful  provision,  as  I 
have  elsewhere  observed,*  is  more  indispensable  to  the 
economy  of  the  Palmipedes  than  to  any  other  order,  as 
many  of  them  are  strictly  oceanic,  being  sometimes  found 
.>()()  leagues  from  'and,  and  consequently  having  no  other 
place  of  repose,  either  by  night  or  by  day,  than  the  sur- 
face of  the  "  injurious  sea."  In  addition  to  an  abundant 
plumage,  the  truly  aquatic  kinds,  such  as  ducks  and 
divers,  are  furnished  with  a  close,  and,  in  some  instances, 
very  valuable  down,  which  preserves  them  from  the  ef- 
fects  of  cold  and  moisture,  and  is  afterwards  used  in  the 
formation  of  their  nests  on  the  arrival  of  the  genial  season. 
With  the  exception  of  ducks  and  mergansers,  no  very 
marked  lUstinction  prevails  between  the  plumage  of  the 


mon  in  the  fiir-countries  as  liij^h  as  the  sixtietli  parallel ;  slender- 
»haiiks  sandpiper  (T'.  /ihnanfopn.s,  Bonap.  ?);  semipalmated  .sand- 
piper (  7'.  ^einipdhiiata,  Wils.);  purple  sandpiper  ( 7'.  niaritinui, 
Brunn.);  dunlin  ( T.  al]n)i(i,  Penn.) ;  Schintz's  saudpi>)er  (  7'.  Scfi'ni- 
xii,  BrehiTi.);  pij^my  sandpiper  (7".  minuta,  Leisler);  diminutiw 
.sandpiper  (/'.  pusiUit^  Wils.);  knot  (7'.  ciiwrra,  Linn.^;  semipal- 
mated  tatler  (Tolanus  .setniptihiid/us,  Teuun.);  tell-tale  ( 7'.  vor- 
J'eriis,  Sabine);  yellow-.shanks  tatler  (7".  Jiacipes,  Vieillot);  rod- 
i^hank  or  tjanibet  (  T.  caHdris,  Beclist.) ;  Bartram's  tatler  (  7'.  B(i>- 
tramius^  Temm.) ;  white-tailed  tatler  (  T.  ochropiis,  Temm.);  ^recn- 
rump  tatler  (  7'.  rh/oropi/fjiu.s,  Vieill.)  ;  ^reat-marbled  j^odwit  (Le 
tnona  fedodf  Vieill.);  Hudsonian  ^i,v\vi\i[L.  Ifiu/sonini,  Swains.); 
New  York  godwit  (Scdlopav  iSfiniohordcoists^Wils.);  DrununondV 
snipe  (Sc.  Druwmonf/ii,  Swains.);  Wilson's  snipe  (A'c  IViisoni'- 
Temm.);  yellow-breasted  rail  {lid II us  A^ovo/juraccnsLs,  Bona]).); 
Carolina  rail  (H.  Cara/inus,  Bonap.);  American  coot  (Fu/m 
Americana.,  Gmel.) ;  Wilson's  phalarope  [Fh.  IVi/sonii,  Sab.): 
h yperlK)rean  phalarope  (J^h.  hvjjerboreus,  Lath.) ;  flat-billed  phala- 
rope (Fh.  fu/mninsy  Bonap.). 

•  Illustrations  of  Zoology,  voL  i.,  introductory  letter-press  t 
plate  3. 


fitnrpa,  or  web- 
i  shall  present 
)r(ler  are  fully 
e  tints  of  their 

(luck  tribe  are 
ancy  of  colour, 
banks  of  lakes 
nclemencies  of 
identially  ren- 
iilantly  imbued 
L'y  become  im- 
provision,  as  I 
)ensable  to  the 
3ther  order,  as 
imetimes  found 
laving  no  other 
,  than  the  sur- 
to  an  abundant 

as  ducks  and 
some  instances, 
1  from  tlie  ef. 
rds  used  in  the 
e  genial  season, 
msers,  no  very 
)lumage  of  the 


parallel;  slender- 
nupalmated  sand- 
pr  ( 7'.  niarUhria, 
dpi[)er(7'.  Sc/iiii- 
si.sler) ;  diininutiw 


Linn 


(i.j;  seniipa!' 
ale  (  T.  roc?' 


tell-tale  ( 
p.v,  Vieillot);  ml- 
r.statler(7'. /y^/'- 
^v,  Teinni.);^recii- 
irbled  j^odwit  (/-■ 
f/sonicii,  Swains.); 
ils.);  Drummon(f> 
ipe  (Sc.  IVilsonn. 
racensis,  Bonaj).); 
can   coot  (Fit/m 

IVi/sonii,  Sab.): 
) ;  flat-billed  pliala- 


ory  letter-press 


K'). 


w^'  ■ 


*.■. 


m: 


niRDs. 


Us  I 


sfXL's.  The  youiip;  ditfor  coiisidcrahly  tVoin  the  luUihs. 
and  seldom  attain  the  perfect  pkmiaj^e  till  the  lapse  of  one 
or  two  seasons. 

North  America  produces  several  )j:rehes  (i^enus  /*'///- 
(7'//.v)  and  sea-swallows  {Sft'nin).  Aljout  a  ilo/en  ditter- 
cnt  kinds  of  ^u\\  (Lurus)  iniiahit  l)()ih  the  harren  sho»"es 
and  inland  swamjjs  of  the  fur-countries.  A  heautiful 
species  called  the  fork-tailed  <^n\\  {Ltwus  Sdhinii)  is  liere 
represented. 

This  hird  was  discovered  hy  Captain  Kdward  Sahine  on 
a  t!;rou|)  of  three  low  rocky  islands,  ahout  twenty  mile?* 
from  the  maiidand,  off'  the  west  coast  of  (ireenland. 
"  'I'hey  Hew  with  impeluosity  towards  persons  approach- 
ing their  nests  and  youni:; ;  and  when  one  bird  of  a  pair 
was  killed,  its  mate,  though  separately  fired  at,  contiiuied 
on  wing  close  to  the  sjjot  where  it  lay."*  The  fork-tailed 
or  Sal)ine  gull  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  of  the  gemis. 
Its  colours,  though  sufficiently  contrasted  for  variety  and 
liveliness  of  effect,  are  finely  harmonized.  The  colour  of 
the  head  assumes  a  considerable  variety  of  appearances, 
according  to  the  (Urection  and  degree  of  light  in  which  it 
is  examined ; — a  tinge  of  black,  brown,  blue,  or  purple, 
seeming  alternately  suffused  over  the  deep  lead-co'our 
which  forms  the  })revailing  tone  by  which  the  parts  are 
usually  characterized.  There  appears  to  be  no  difference 
in  the  plumage  of  the  sexes,  but  the  female  is  rather  less 
in  size.  A  solitary  examj)le  of  this  sj)ecies  was  met  in 
Prince  Regent's  Iidet  during  Sir  Kdward  Parry's  first 
voyage,  and  in  the  course  of  the  second  voyage  many 
were  of)tained  on  Melville  Peninsula.  Tliey  arrive  in 
high  northern  latitudes  in  June,  and  take  their  departure 
southwartls  as  early  as  the  month  of  August. 

As  an  example  of  the  northern  ducks,  we  shall  confine 
ourselves  to  the  Uocky  Mountain  golden-eye  {Chintjula 
Uarrovi,  Rich,  and  Swains.),  a  sj)ecies  distinguished  from 
our  common  golden-eye  by  the  head  and  upj)er  [jortion  of 
the  neck  being  of  a  ])ansy-pur{)le  colour,  with  a  large 
orescent-shaped  spot  of  white  l)efore  each  eye.  The  white 
speculum  of  the  wing  is  separated  from  a  band  of  the 
same  colour  on  the  coverts  by  a  black  strijjc.  It  is  dedi- 
cated to  ]\Ir  Barrow  of  the  Admiri'.lty,  our  chief  promo- 
ter of  those  important  geographical  discoveries,  fron.  the 


*  Liiin.  Trans.,  vol.  \ii. 


.Vi-2. 


:iH<2 


NAM  llAf,   IllSIOItV. 


successful  conduct  of  wliicli  such  essential  hciicfits  ha\i 
resulted  to  /oolopcal  science. 

It  appears  that  the  swan  lately  discovered,  or  at  least 
identitiedasnew  to  the  records  of  Hritish  ornithoiojiv,  and 
descrihed  hy  .Mr  Yarreil*  under  the  nanieof  JJewick'sswai, 
iCf/tpiiis  lifirickii),  is  an  inhahitant  of  the  seacoast  within 
theArctic  circle  of  America.  Itisnujch  later  in  its  northern 
iniirratory  movements  than  its  congener  the  trumpeter- 
swan  {C.  buvi'iniitnr).  According'  to  Lewis  and  ("iarkt 
it  winters  near  the  mouth  of  the  {!()lund)ia.  Its  nest  ix 
descrihed  hy  Captain  Lyon  (than  whom  few  descril)e  in 
:i  more  ap:reeahle  maimer)  as  built  in  a  j)eat-moss,  and 
iH'ing  nearly  six  feet  lonj^,  four  and  three  (]uarters  widr 
two  feet  high  exteriorly,  and  with  u  cavity  in  the  insidi 
f)f  a  foot  and  a  half  in  diameter.  The  eggs  were  hrown- 
ish-white,  clouded  with  a  darker  tint.  A  more  common 
sj)ecies  of  swan  in  the  interior  of  the  fur- countries  is  tin 
trumj)eter  ahove  named.  The  great  hulk  of  the  ski!i> 
imported  by  the  Hudson's  IJay  Comi)any  pertain  to  tin- 
sj)ecies. 

The  white  pelican  (^Pel.onocrofalus)  is  frequent  in  tlii 
fur-countries  as  high  as  the  sixty-tirst  parallel.  It  haunt> 
I'ddies  ])eneath  cascades,  and  destroys  a  great  (quantity  ot 
1  arp  and  other  fish. 

The  great  northern  diver  {Co/i/wbu.s  <jlaci(i/i^)  is  nu: 
with  in  consideral)le  numbers  in  all  the  lakes  of  the  inte- 
rior, though  seldom  observed  either  in  Hudson's  Bay  oi 
along  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea.  It  flies  heavily,  bn; 
swims  with  great  swiftness.  The  black-throated  specii- 
(('.  Arcticu.s),  on  the  other  band,  though  common  on  tin 
coasts  of  Hudson's  IJay,  more  rarely  makes  its  way  inti 
the  interior.  ]Most  of  the  guillemot  tribe  {Uria  troiii 
lirutm'u'hn,  grylle,  and  al/e)  frequent  the  Arctic  i^eas  v. 
America. 

\Vc  shall  bere  close  our  account  of  the  feathered  race- 
of  these  northern  regions. 


*  l^inn.  Trans.,  vol.  xvi.  p.  1 15. 


I)cncfits  ha\i 

(I,  or  lit  li'ust 
iiitliolo^y,  ami 
Ik'wiok'sswaii 
fiicoiist  within 
in  itsnortlKTii 
he  truinpt'tLT- 
is  and  Clarki 
i.     Its  mst  i> 
L>w  di'ScrilK'  ill 
(cat-moss,  ainl 
(juartcrs  wicU . 
yr  in  tlie  insidr 
s  were  hrown- 
more  common 
Duntries  is  thi 
k  of  the  skill' 
pertain  to  thi^ 

frequent  in  thi 
Uel.  It  haunts 
•eat  quantity  o\ 

acialis)  is  nu; 
ces  of  tlie  intc 
udson's  Hay  o\ 
les  heavily,  hu; 
iroated  specii- 
common  on  tin 
L>s  its  way  intt 
le  {Urin  troil' 
Arctic  tSeas  v. 

feathered  ract* 


I'lSMKS. 


HH.i 


CilArTKH  VIII. 

Some  Arrtiiinf  of  the  Fishes  tnnl  (tf/icr  ZitohujirnI  ProilitV' 
tioiifi  of  the  A'orthmi  lirffioiifi  of  Amertrn. 

Miir^iMin  —  Salmon  —  Trout  -Char — Capclari — White  Fish — Blin' 
Fish  — Hi'rriii^ — Pikf-  Hiirhut  —  r«'r>  li  — Miill-hcad  Norlh«Tii 
InstHtk — Thi'ir  Natural  !*n'v('r\atioii  from  Culd — More  Northern 
Fxteiisioii  ofTropieal  Forms  in  Amerira  than  in  l'',nr<»|)«'  — Hees 
—  F.vttMisinn  Westwards  of  the  Honey-hee — Dipteru — Mehilh- 
Island  Spider — Hiittertlie.s. 

'I'liK  fishes  of  tlie  nortliern  regions  are  of  }?reat  importanei- 
;is  articles  of  food  in  countries  where  a  luitritious  diet  is 
by  no  means  easy  to  ohtain  ;  and  where,  as  we  have  seen 
in  tlie  course  of  our  historical  discpiisition,  tri|)e  de  roche, 
burnt  hones,  and  fur-jackets,  are  too  frecpiently  the  sorry 
substitutes  for  better  fare.  \Ve  shall  mention  a  few  of  the 
characteristic  kinds. 

A  species  of  sturgeon  called  sterlet  (/lcc?7^f'n.v^>*  HutlH-- 
utis)  abounds  in  the  Saskatchawan.  The  fishery  at 
Cumberland  House  is  most  productive  during  the  spring 
and  summer.  This  is  a  nmch  smaller  s|)ecies  than  the 
A.  hiisff.  An  inchvidual  weighing  (>()  j)Ounds  is  consi- 
dered large. 

TheCoppermine  River  salmon  (>V//wo  ITcrnii)  is  shaped 
like  a  comnu)n  salmon,  with  a  somewhat  larger  liead.  Its 
size  is  inferior  to  that  of  the  British  salmon.  It  is  cap- 
tured in  great  ([uantities  in  the  leaj)  at  IJloody  Fall,  on 
the  Co[)permine,  in  the  months  of  July  and  August. 
Many  varieties  of  trout  also  occur  in  the  lakes  and  rivers 
of  the  northern  parts  of  America  ;  but  as  the  kinds  which 
frequent  our  own  otherwise  w^ell-known  streams  are  still 
vaguely  indicated  by  naturalists,  the  reader  need  not  won- 
der that  we  have  little  definite  information  to  comnmni- 
cate  reganUng  those  of  such  far  distant  lands.  The  In- 
dians do  not  appear  to  designate  their  trouts  by  specific 
appellations,  but  use  a  general  term  ; — the  Crees  call  them 


3Hi 


NATL  HAL  lilSTdUV 


nnmm(rcons!,  tlie  Chipcwyans  thloot'cfiinnch,  and  tlie  Es- 
quimaux icrlmllook.  Tlie  vividness  of  their  spots  an  1 
nia»-kings  seems  to  vary  witii  the  season  ;  and  the  colour 
and  consequent  conthtion  of  tlie  flesh  are  likewise  liabW 
to  chanij;e.  They  attain  at  times  to  an  enormous  size ; 
I)r  Kiehardson  frecjuently  observed  trouts  weighing  K> 
jKiunds.  In  Maiiito  or  God's  Lake,  ih;:y  are  re[)orted  to 
attain  the  size  of  90  pounds.  A  species  nearly  allied  to 
tlie  char  (iS'.  ulj/inus),  but  with  the  tail  more  forked,  and 
a  blunter  snout,  was  taken  in  a  lake  in  Melville  Island. 

The  capelan  or  lodde  {S.  GrdulandicK.s)  was  ob- 
served in  large  shoals  along  tiie  shallow  shores  of  IJa- 
tliurst's  Inlet.  The  white  fish  (  Coreyon  u.s  (ilbu.s)  is  named 
tlilooak  by  the  Cop})er  Indians,  and  tittdnicij  by  the 
traders.  It  varies  in  weight  from  three  to  eight  ])ounds, 
and  sometimes  attains  even  a  much  greater  size.  It 
abounds  in  every  lake  and  river  of  the  American  Arctic 
Regions,  and  forms  a  most  delicious  food,  being  eaten 
without  satiety  as  almost  the  sole  article  of  diet  at  some 
of  the  trading-posts  for  a  series  of  years.  Back's  grayling 
(C  fiiguifi'v)  is  the  poisson  bleu  of  the  fur-dealers.  This 
beautiful  fish  prefers  the  strong  rapids,  and  rises  eagerly 
at  the  artificial  fly.  It  was  found  during  the  first  expe- 
dition only  in  the  clear  rivers  to  the  northward  of  Great 
Slave  Lake,  and  measures  about  IG  inches  exclusive  ot 
tlie  caudal  fin.  The  common  herring  {Cliipea  Hareu- 
(jns)  was  caught  in  Bathurst  Inlet  early  in  the  month  ot 
August;  and  pike  {Eti(),v  tucins?)  are  common  in  ali 
tlie  lakes.  The  liurbot  {Gadu.'i  hta)  is  likewise  a  fre- 
quent  fish  in  every  lake  and  river.  It  preys  indiscriini- 
nately  on  vvli.ttever  other  species  it  is  able  to  swallow. 
and  in  the  spring  its  stomach  is  generally  crammed  Avitli 
cray-tish  to  such  a  degree  as  to  distort  the  shape  of  its 
own  body.*  It  is  little  prized  as  food.  There  h  a  kind 
of  perch,  sufficiently  common  about  Cumberland  House, 
which  resembles  our  common  perch  in  shape,  but  at  tin 
same  time  differs  in  several  respects  from  the  European 
species.  Its  length  to  the  cautlal  fin  is  about  19  inches. 
A  pecidiar  cottus  (C  ^'o/aris,  Sabine),  similar  in  it? 
habits  to  C.  gohio,  was  found  to  occur  abundantly  on  tlu 
shores  of  North  Georgia,  in  pools  of  water  left  by  thi 
ebbing  of  the  tide.     The  largest  were  not  more  than  two 

*  Appendix  to  Franklin  s  l-'irst  Journev.  p.  7-4. 

7 


tnin 


INSKCT.S. 


:is,-> 


,  anil  the  Es- 

eir  s})Ots  an  I 
11(1  the  colour 
likewise  liabW 
lornioLis  size ; 
;  weighing   W 
ire  reported  to 
learly  allied  to 
)re  forked,  and 
iville  Island. 
6w^y)    was  ob- 
shores  of  Ba- 
z/6/i.y)  is  named 
ft(tnir(j   by   tlie 
>  eight  pounds, 
eater   size.     It 
nierican  Arctic 
,d,  being  eaten 
of  diet  at  some 
Back's  grayling 
•-dealers.    This 
nd  rises  eagerly 
r  the  first  expe- 
hward  of  Cireat 
les  exclusive  ot 
CI n pea  Harcu- 
in  the  month  ot 
common  in  all 
likewise  a  fre- 
reys  indiscrimi- 
ble  to  swallow, 
crammed  Avith 
le  shape  of  it;^ 
There  i.^^  a  kind 
i\)erland  House, 
lape,  but  at  tlu 
1  the  European 
ibout  19  inches, 
similar   in  it? 
undantly  on  the 
ater  left  by  the 
t  more  than  two 


inches  long.*     The  six-horned  bull-head  (C.  hc.racornls), 
s  also  frefjuent  in  the  Arctic  Seas.t 

We  have  little  to  say  of  the  insects  of  the  northern  regions. 
Cold  is  in  general  adverse  to  the  production  anil  increase 
of  insect  life,  and  even  temjierate  climates  are  nmch  less 
|)ro  luctive  than  tropical  and  eipiatorial  regions,  in  relation 
to  those  tiny  tribes.  It  is  ])rol)able,  however,  that  the 
distribution  of  many  northern  s])ecies  is  still  unknown.  It 
was  formerly  su})})osed  that  in  Iceland  there  were  none, 
xwA  that  even  in  Norway  there  were  very  few,  and  their 
absence  from  those  countries  was  attributed  to  excess  of 
cold.  Ilorrebow  contradicted  this  o{)inion  in  regard  to 
Iceland,  and  although  I)r  Hooker  in  his  interesting  "  Ue- 
collections"  of  a  tour  in  that  island  states  that  he  met  with 
tow,;};  yet  Olafsen  and  Povalsen,  during  their  residence 
there,  collected  200  ditferent  species  in  one  small  valley. || 
Otho  Eabricius  resided  six  years  in  (ireenland,  and 
collected  only  (53  species  of  the  insect  class,  properly  so 
called.§  In  the  still  higher  latitude  of  Winter  Harbour, 
where  Sir  Edward  Parry  sojourned,  only  six  sj)ecies  of 
insects  were  collected  from  the  beginning  of  the  month  of 
September  till  tlie  August  following.  In  Greenland,  ac- 
cording to  iMr  Kirby,  every  order  of  insect  has  its  re])re- 
RMitatives,  except  Orthoptera  and  Hemiptera;  but  in  Mel- 
ville Island,  besides  these  deficiencies,  neither  coleopterous 
nor  neuropterous  species  were  observed ;  and  even  the 
inos([uito,  that  shrill  tyrant  of  the  Lapland  ])lains,  appears 
to  have  ceased  from  troubling  along  those  hyperborean 
shores.  It  must,  however,  be  borne  in  mind,  that  in.sects; 
can  escape  the  extremes  of  cold  not  only,  as  Mr  Macleay 
ohserves,  by  passing  certain  periods  in  the  })U})a  or  torpid 
Itate,  but  also  by  behig  while  in  that  state  usually  buried 
in  die  earth,  where  they  are  but  slightly  sensible  even  of 
the  most  extreme  rigour  of  winter.  "  Wliat  they  chicflv 
rt(juire  is  the  presence  of  lieat  during  some  period  of 
tlieir  existence ;  and  the  greater,  within  certain  limits,  is 


*  Supplement  to  tlie  A[)peii(li\  to  Parry's  First  \'ov:~";'e,  p.  2115. 
+  For  some  notices  ot"  shells  and  other  invertebrate  animals  of 
If  Arctic  Regions,  consult  the  Supplement  above  named.     See 
l-^o  a  List  of  Zoophytes  by  Dr  Flennn^-,  in  the  Appendix  to  Cap- 
ttiiii  i'arry's  Second  Vovage  to  the  Arctic  Ite^ions. 
X  First  edition,  p.  272.  ||  Voya^  ea  Islande,  t.  i. 

5  Fauna  Grirnlandica. 

2  A 


;JSG 


NATURAL  HISTOUV. 


the  heat,  the  more  active  will  he  their  vital  principle.     ( )i 
the  American  continent  the  extremes  of"  heat  and  cold  ii 
the  course  of  the  year  are,  as  is  well  known,  incomiJarabi, 
jrreater  than  in  places  of  the  same  latitude  in    Kuropi 
W^e  may  therefore  readily  conceive  how  particular  fami. 
lies  of  insects  will  inhabit  a  wider  range  of  latitude  in  th 
former  country  than  in  the  latter,     ^\'e  see  also  how  ii:. 
sects  may  swarm  in  the  very  coldest  climates,  such   ;■.■ 
Lapland  and  Si)itzher<;en,  where  the  short  summer  ca 
hoast  of  extraordinary  rises  in  the  thermometer  ;  becaii- 
the  cnerp-y  of  the  vital  principle  in  such  animals  is,  witL 
in  certain  limits,  proportionate  to  the  degree  of  warmth  t 
which  they  may  he  subjected,  an<l  escapes  in  a  maniu 
the  severe  action  of  cold."*     It  is  on  the  above  princi|>l(- 
also  that  Mr  Macleay  accounts  for  what  certainly  at  tir- 
seems  an  extraordinary  circumstance  in  the  geographv  c 
insects ;    namely,   that   their   tropical   structure   txtenc 
nmch  farther  north  in  America  than  in  Europe, — that  i> 
in  a  maimer  directly  the  reverse  of  that  which  has  bei: 
noted  by  botanists  to  occur  in  the  vegetable  kingdoii; 
When  we  examine  Copris  cjiritifcx,  Cctouifi  itii'ida,  lift. 
tchi  6-piuictata,  and  other  insects  from  the  neighbour- 
hood  of  New  York,  and  compare  them  with  species  o: 
the  same  families  from  Jirazil,  we  shall  find  their  difftr- 
ence  of  structure  infinitely  less  than  that  which  would  r 
suit  from  a  comj)arison  of  the  entomological  productions  o 
the  environs  of  Madrid  with  those  of  the  banks  of  thi 
(  ongo. 

Air  Afacleay  admits,  that  although  in  his  opinion  tin 
insect  tribes  suffer  less  in  cold  climates  than  plants,  it  dot> 
not  therefore  follow  that  the  ])revalence  of  cold  has  no  ef- 
fect in  relation  to  the  destruction  or  prevention  of  insa; 
life.     In  truth  the  diminution  of  the  number  of  specie 
becomes   very   conspicuous  as  we   advance  towards  tli. 
j)oles.     IJut  this  the  learned  author  of  the  Honr  EntdiH". 
loij'itue  supposes  to  be  owing  rather  to  the  short  contiiu:. 
ance  of  the  summer  warmth,  than  to  the  lowness  of  it- 
existing  degree.     In  accordance  witli  this  view  we  cer- 
tainly find  that  many  insects,  such  as  gnats,  mosquitoes 
<S:c.  which  pass  their  larva  state  in  water, — thus  avoidin. 
the  extreinest  cold,  and  whose  existence  in  the  jnTfec; 
state   being  naturally  ephemeral,    must  therefore   suHl 


*   H()ra>  KutDniolicirr,  jjurt  i.  p.  4."). 


iNsiorxs. 


3S7 


principle.     < ': 
eat  and  cold  ii 
I,  incoir.i)arabl\ 
ide  in    Kiiro|n 
(articular  t'aiiii. 
f  latitude  in  th 
ee  also  how  in- 
mates,   such   ; 
)rt  sununer  c;: 
unetcr ;  becau- 
miinals  is,  Avitl 
ree  of  warmth  t 
K's  in  a  nianiu 
above  principle- 
certainly  at  tir- 
he  <>;eoj^raphy  c 
Tucture   txteni; 
^lurope,— that  i^ 
which  has  ha; 
retable  kingdoii, 
onid  tiltiilti,  i^'- 
n  the  neighbour- 
\  with  species  ( 
Hnd  their  difitr- 
which  would  ri- 
al productions  o 
he  banks  of  i\v 

.  his  opinion  tin 
an  plants,  it  dot- 
)f  cold  has  no  et- 
Ivention  of  insec 
Limber  of  specii 
nee  towards  tli 
\i  Horcf  Ent(mi< 
short  contim: 
|ie  lowness  of  i;- 
lis  view  we  cir- 
jats,  mosquitoe> 
-thus  avoidiii- 
in  the  jierfec: 
I  therefore   sutll. 


liule  from  the  shortness  of  summer, — are  nowhere  mi>re 
troublesome  than  amoiiij;  the  moors  and  marshes  of  tlu' 
North,  ( )n  the  other  hand  tlie  number  of  coleopterous 
species,  which,  being  naturally  longer  lived,  reiiuire  a 
greater  continuance  of  warmth,  is  sensibly  diminished 
amid  those  dreary  wastes.* 

Several  specimens  of  a  species  of  caterjiiUar  were  found 
in  Melville  Island.     They  occurred  in  the  vicinity  of  Stil'i  i 
Arcticd  and   Sn.r[fr(i(ja  ofipo.sitij'o/ia,  and  a  new  niotii 
(]i(»nhi/x  Sdhiiii,  K.)  was  I'ound  in  a  swamj)y  part  of 
the  island.     The  honey-bee  {A)>h-  mdHjica)  is  siij)pose(l 
to  be   not   an  indigenous,  i)iit   an  imported   species   in 
Vmerica,    Our  land  expeditions  did  n()toi)serve  its  occur- 
rence to  the  north  of  Canada,     The  Americans  have  now 
xi'ttlcd  the  Missouri,  as  far  as  the  f).5th  meridian,  and  it  is 
[■.robable  that  the  New  England  men,  in  their  journeys 
westward,  carried  hives  along  with  them.     According  to 
Mr  Warden,  the  honey-bee  was  not  found  to  the  west- 
ward of  the  Mississippi  prior  to  the  year   17!)7  ;  but  it 
is  now  well  known,   and   has  been  so  for  a  considerable 
time,  as  high  up  the  Missouri  as  the  Maha  nation  ;  having 
jjroceeded  westward  ()()()  miles  in  fourteen  years,t    iSuch  a 
distance  seems  great  for  these  tiny  creatures  to  advance  by 
the  ordinary  process  of  swarming,  even  supposing  that  the 
dight  of  the  new  colonies  was  invariably  in  a  western  di- 
rection.    It  is  at  the  rate  of  i;j  miles  a-year ;  but  the\ 
havv'  perhaps  been  smitten  by  the  Yankee  passion  of  settling 
beyond  the  clearings.'];  A  wild  bee  (^Apiii  (iljiiiui,  Fab.  liont- 
hii.s  Arctinis,  K.)  of  a  black  colour,  with  the  base  and 
iijiex  of  the  thorax  and  the  anterior  half  of  the  alxlonien 
pale  yellow,  is  very  common  within  the  Arctic  Circle. || 
"  Scarcely  any  genus  of  the  insect  creation  has  so  large  a 
raiiij-e  as  this  of  Bimihiis.     It  is  found  in  the  Old  World 


4."». 


•  11)1(1.  p.  4»). 

+  Statistii'al,  I'oliticiil,  and  Historical  Account  t)t'  tlie  United 
Mates  of  AnuM-ica,  vol.  ill.  p.  lliU. 

ij:  Dr  Hicliardson  lately  iatonned  iiio  tl:at  in  the  course  of  his 
lorthern  joiirnev  he  saw  some  bees  in  verv  hi^Hi  latitudes  resein- 
^^\\\v^  our  common  iiumhie  bee,  but  that  he  did  not  at  tlie  time  as- 
crtaiii  the  exact  s|)ecies,aud  the  circumstances  under  wliiih  he  was 
;lii'n  placed  unfortunately  prevented  liis  preserviuii;  specimen^  ot 
'he  softer  insects. 

||  The  insect  above  alluded  to  is  a  distinct  species  from  t!ie  Ajns 
'ilpnui  of  Linn.,  which  is  black,  with  the  upper  side  of  the  abd'.- 
iiien,  all  but  the  base,  covered  with  ferrut^inous  hair. 


.{HH 


NATIRAL  HISTORY. 


and  in  the  New, — and  from  the  limits  of  phjenogamous 
vegetation  to  tlie  equator ;  but  its  metropolis  appears  to 
he  within  the  temperate  zone.  The  range  of  the  species 
m  (juestion  seems  Umited  by  the  Arctic  Circle,  and  to  go 
from  (Greenland  only  westward,  for  it  does  not  appear  to 
have  been  seen  in  Lapland  or  Iceland,*  or  other  eastt^n, 
parts  of  that  circle."t 

Of  the  dipterous  tribes  we  shall  here  mention  only  tlu 
Chironomus  polarls'  of  Kirby.  The  body  is  of  a  deej) 
black,  somewhat  hury.  The  antennic  are  plumose.  Tht 
wings  are  rather  shorter  than  the  body,  of  a  milky  hue, 
with  prismatic  reflections,  and  the  marginal  nervure? 
black.  The  abdomen  is  slender  and  hairy.  This  species 
seems  allied  to  the  Tijnda  ,stercoraria  of  De  Geer,  but 
exceeds  it  by  twice  the  size.  Along  with  Ctenophnra 
Parrii  it  may  be  said  to  replace  the  Culices  or  gnats  whicli 
prove  so  troublesome  to  navigators  and  travellers  up  to  a 
certain  high  latitude.  The  species  of  the  genus  Chirono- 
nius,  more  especially,  are  often  seen  in  our  own  country 
dancing  in  the  sunbeams  even  during  the  depth  of  winter 
when  Culex  is  benumbed ;  and  it  was  therefore  to  be  ex- 
pected, a  priori,  that  the  former  would  occupy  a  higher 
range,  and  approach  nearer  the  pole  than  the  latter.  Oi: 
the  last  day  of  Captain  Parry's  attempt  to  reach  the  Nortli 
Pole  over  the  ice,  a  species  of  Aphis  was  found  in  lat.  89 
'•IQ'  44",  about  100  miles  from  the  nearest  known  land.:' 
This  m.ay  be  considered  as  the  extreme  northern  boun- 
dary of  insect  life. 

A  small  spider  was  seen  in  great  abundance  in  ]\Iel- 
ville  Island,  running  on  the  ground,  as  w^ell  as  on  various 
plants,  and  leaping  when  alarmed.  JMr  Kirby  had  an  op- 
j)ortunity  of  examining  only  a  single  specimen,  which 
was  so  defeccive  from  injury  that  he  could  not  name  witli 
certainty  the  genus  to  which  it  belonged ;  but  from  it.< 
leaping  propensities  it  was  inferred  to  belong  to  Salticn-^ 
of  Latreille.  To  whatever  genus  it  pertains,  the  specific 
name  of  Melmllensis  is  now  bestowed  upon  it. 

Mr  Scoresby  brought  a  few  insects  from  the  east  coa^; 
of  West  Greenland.     Among  these  were  two  butterflit> 

*  Hooker's  Recollections  of  Iceland,  1st  edition,  p.  34. 
-f-  Supplement  to  the  Appendix  to  Captain  Parry  s  First  Vovap- 
)).  217. 

1;  Narrative  of  an  Attempt  to  reach  tlie  North  Pole  in  Boats. 


f  phscnogamous 
ipolis  appears  to 
j;e  of  the  species 
'ircle,  and  to  go 
es  not  appear  to 
or  other  east«:rr 

nention  only  tiu 
ly  is  of  a  deep 

})lumose.  Tht 
3f  a  milky  hue. 
rginal  nervure? 
y.  This  species 
if  De  Geer,  but 
vith  Ctenophoru 
IS  or  gnats  whicli 
ravellers  up  to  a 

genus  Chirono- 
)ur  own  country 
depth  of  winter 
srefore  to  be  ex. 
occupy  a  higher 
I  the  latter.  Or 
i  reach  the  North 
found  in  lat.  82 
3t  known  land.t 

northern  boun- 


IXSECTS. 


389 


Fnpilh  palreno,  IJnn.  {Fnun.  suec.  lOil),  and  PapUio 
(iia,h\\m.{F2ih.Mai  i.ins.n.^.i^X,  n.  .5Sl).  Both  of  these 
were  enumerated  for  the  first  time  as  productions  of  (Green- 
land in  the  account  of  his  voyage  ;  for  the  only  butterfly 
met  with  on  either  coast  by  Fabricius  was  the  Fapil'w 
TuUia  of  .Muller.* 

The  entomology  of  the  northern  portions  of  the  main- 
land of  America  is  as  yet  known  only  through  a  few  vague 
and  su^.jrficial  notices  from  which  we  can  deduce  no  po- 
sitive results,  and  with  which  we  therefore  deem  it  un- 
necessary to  trouble  the  reader.  We  expect  ere  long  a 
valuable  contribution  on  the  subject  from  the  skilful  pen 
of  ^Ir  Kirby.t 


*  Scoresby's  Journal  of  a  Voya^re  to  tlie  Nortliern  VVliale-fisli- 
ery,  f).  424. 

t  The  third  vohime  of  Dr  Richardson's  Farina  BorpaU-Amf- 
rica/ia,  novv  in  preparation,  will  contain  a  few  notices  of  Serpents, 
—a  d' .scription  of  tjio  Fishes,_an  account  of  the  Insects  (by  Mr 
Kirby),— and  a  list  of  Testacea. 


mdance  in  I\Iel- 
ell  as  on  varioii- 
Cirby  had  an  oj)- 
pecimen,  whici 
d  not  name  witli 
id ;  but  from  it,^ 
ilong  to  Salticu< 
ains,  the  specitir 
ion  it. 

>m  the  east  coa.>-; 
two  butterflies 


:)n,  p.  34. 

rry  s  First  Voyatr' 

;h  Pole  in  Boats. 


:m) 


S.\TlU\l,  IlIsTOUN  . 


cHArTP:u  IX. 

Characteristic  Features-  in  the  Jiotani/  of  the  Xorthcvh 
liey  iu ns  of  A ineriea . 

Mr  Brown's  Ohsorvaticms  on  tlic  rolativo  Proportions  of  tlic  Twn 
f.Teat  Divisions  ot'Phajno^anious  I'lants — Hcautif'iil  small  Willow 
from  I'>ast  (irconland — Jsoticcs  of  tlie  uiorc  rtMnarkahlc  Spctic^ 
collccU'd  l)V  l)r  Uicliardson — (Jaliuni  Tinctoriuin — Cornus  Alha 
— Phlox  Hoodii — Viburnum  ImIuIc — Azalea  Nudicaulis — Liliuiii 
Pliiladclpliifuni — Epilohium  August ifoliuni — Ledum  latifolium— 
I,.  Palustre — I'runus  Virj^iniana — Pvrus  Ovalis — Crcpis  Nana — 
Cineraria  Cony-esta — Pinus  Nigra — V.  Alba — P.  IJanksiana — F. 
IMieroearpa — P.  Lanibertiana — Kmpet rum  Nigrum— MyricaCialc 
— Populns  Trepida — Populus  Balsamifera — Juniperus  Prosti-at;i 
— Sphu'hnum  Mnioides— Dicranum  Elonpitum — Gyronliora  |)n.- 
boseidea—  II yperborea  Penns\  Ivanica,  Nlecklen])ergii,  vellea- 
(-etraria  Ilicliardsonii — Fuous  Ceranoides — Difficulties  in  the  De- 
tennination  of  Arctic  S[)ecies — Plants  recently  introduced  to  tlic 
iiritisli  (iardens— [,atliyrns  Decapliyllus — Kutoca  Franklinii- 
l.upinus  Littoralis— Clarkia  Pulchella — (ierardiaCapitata — New 
Dodecatlieon — Andromeda  Tetragona — Meuziesia  Empetrifolin 
— Azalea  Laj)pouica — Dryas  Drununondia. 

Ai/riioiGii,  as  a  subject  of  scientific  and  philosophical  in- 
vestigation, botany  yields  in  interest  to  none  of  the  other 
branches  of  natural  history,  and  although  a  great  poet 
and  })rofound  observer  of  nature  has  asserted  that 

"  To  him  the  meanest  flower  that  blows  can  give 
Thoughts  that  do  often  lie  too  deep  for  tears," 

yet,  owing  to  the  extension  which  we  have  assigned  to  tin 
zoological  department,  our  space  we  fear  will  scarcely 
suffice  for  more  than  a  cursory  sketch,  even  with  the  to- 
tal exclusion  of  all  lachrymose  affection.  Several  of  our 
best  botanists  have,  of  late  years,  devoted  a  ])ortion  of 
their  attention  to  the  flora  of  the  Northern  Rcaiions  of 
America  ;  but  the  subject  has  as  yet  made  little  progress 
l)eyond  the  indispensa})le  preliminary  of  correct,  though 
probably  not  yet  completed,  catalogues  of  certain  districts. 


'  the  Xorthcrh 


ions  of  tilt"  T\v(. 
if'iil  small  Willow 
markalilc  S[U'<i(''> 
111 — Coriiiis  Alba 
idicaiilis — Lilium 
(liiin  latit'oliiiiii— 
— ("rcpis  Nana — 
'.  IJaiiksiana — F. 
ini — Myriia(ialc 
:ii])onis  Prostrata 
— Gyropliora  pn- 
iibor^ii,  vclica— 
cultios  in  tlu>  \)v- 
iiitroduccd  to  tlic 
oca  Fianklinii- 
iCajjitata — New 
sia   Kuipctrifoliii 


lilosophical  in- 
e  of  the  other 
1  a  cjreat  {xx?! 
n\  that 


an  trive 

■ars, 

ssigned  to  the 
will  scarcely 
with  the  to- 
several  of  our 
a  i)ortion  of 
n  Regions  of 
little  progress 
)rrect,  though 
rtain  districts, 


PLANTS. 


.i:)l 


From  these  it  is  scarcely  possihle  at  jireseiit  to  select  any 
such  general  features  as  would  interest  the  majority  of 
our  readers  ;  hut  we  shall  in  the  inean  while  indicate  the 
sources  from  which  those  who  IncHne  to  investigate  this 
hranch  of  science  may  derive  the  most  ample  and  accu- 
rate information. 

A  list  of  plants,  collected  in  Melville  Island  hy  the  of- 
ficers of  the  first  Polar  voyage,  has  lieen  puhlished  liy 
Mr  Brown,  with  characters  and  descriiitions  of  the  new 
sjiecies.*  This  account  was  made  up  from  the  herharia 
of  Captain  Sahine,  Mr  Mdwards,  Mr.lames  Ross,  Captain 
I'arry,  Mr  Fisher,  and  Mr  lieverley,  whose  names  are 
here  given  in  the  order  of  the  extent  of  their  collections, 
(ireat  difHculty  was  experienced  hy  Mr  lirown  in  deter- 
mining many  of  the  species,  either  from  their  extremely 
variahle  character  or  the  incomplete  condition  of  the 
specimens,  and  occasionally  also  from  the  want  of  au- 
thentic individuals  of  an  identical  or  analogous  nature 
from  other  eountrieSj  with  which  the  recent  accpusitions 
might  ])e  compared.  The  plan  originally  followed  hy  the 
great  Scotch  hotanist  in  the  pre[)arati()n  of  his  list  wixs 
more  extensive  than  that  finally  executed.  It  included 
remarks  on  the  state  and  relative  jiroportions  of  the  pri- 
mary divisions  and  natural  orders  to  which  these  north- 
ern plants  pertained, — a  comjiarison  of  that  hyperhorean 
vegetation  with  the  productions  of  nearly  similar  climates, 
— and  ohservations  on  the  range  of  such  species  as  were 
ascertained  to  he  common  to  Melville  Island  and  other 
parts  of  the  world.  Towards  the  comjiletion  of  that  plan 
he  had  made  considerahle  progress  ;  hut  he  found  eventu- 
ally that  to  have  satisfactorily  developed  some  of  the  suh- 
jects  just  named,  would  not  only  have  recpiired  more  time 
than  he  had  then  in  his  power  to  hestow, — hut  also  a  more 
ample  stock  of  materials  than  was  at  that  period  within 
his  reach.  If  then  so  skilful  an  ohserver  was  unahle  to 
exhihit  any  general  views  on  the  suhject,  we  hold  our- 
selves to  stand  excused  for  their  absence  from  this  depart- 
ment of  our  present  publication.  In  the  list  referred  to 
the  reader  will  find  descriptions  of  several  new  or  imper- 
fectly-known genera  and  species,  with  adnural)le  illustra- 
tive engravings  from  the  unrivalled  pencil  of  Mr  IJauer. 

*  Sniiplonient  to  the  Appendix  to  Captain  Parry's  First  Voyage, 
Fondon,  ll!24. 


3fly 


NATl  HAL  IlISJOUV. 


In  Mr  lirown's  earliest  observations  on  the  interestin^ 
subject  of  the  relative  jjroportions  of  tlie  two  primary  di- 
visioiis  of  i)luenou;anious  plants,  he  had  arrived  at  tlit 
conclusion,  that  i'rvm  i.j^  as  far  as  (iO^,  or  perhaps  ().V'  ot 
north  latitude,  the  proportion  of  dicotyledonous  to  mono, 
eotyledonous  jdants  gradually  diminished.*  From  a  subse- 
(juent consideration,  however,  of  the  lis^  of  ( I reenland  plant.- 
}2^ven  by  Professor  (Jeisecke,t  as  well  as  from  what  In 
had  been  able  elsewhere  to  collect,  re<:;ar(lin<j;  the  vegeta- 
tion of  Alpine  reijions,  he  had  supposed  it  not  impro- 
bable that  in  still  ln<rher  latitudes,  and  at  eorrespondiiij: 
heights  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  the  relative  numbers  ot 
these  two  divisions  were  again  inverted;;}; — in  the  list  ol 
(ireenland  })lants  just  referred  to,  dicotyledones  beii  i: 
to  monocotyledones  as  four  to  one,  or  in  nearly  the  equi- 
noctial ratio  ;  and  in  the  vegetation  of  Spitzbergen,  a^ 
far  as  it  could  be  judged  of  from  the  materials  hitherto 
collected,  the  proportion  of  dicotyledones  appearing  to  k 
stilJ  further  increased.  This  inversion  in  the  cases  now 
mentioned  was  founc'  to  depend  at  least  as  much  on  the 
rt^iuction  of  the  })roportion  of  graminete,  as  on  the  increasi 
of  certain  dicotyledonous  families,  especially  saxifragen 
and  cruciferiu.  "  The  flora  of  Melville  Island,  however, 
which,  as  far  as  relates  to  the  two  primary  divisions  ol 
pluenogamous  plants,  is  probably  as  much  to  be  depend- 
e<l  on  as  any  local  catalogue  hitherto  published,  leads  to 
very  (.itferent  conclusions, — dicotyledones  being  in  thi 
present  list  to  monocotyledones  as  live  to  two,  or  in  a^- 
low  a  ratio  as  lias  been  any  where  yet  observed ;  whiii 
the  proportion  of  grasses,  instead  of  being  reduced,  is 
nearly  dGub'e  what  has  been  found  in  any  other  part 
of  tlie  world  (see  Humboldt  in  Diet,  des  Sciences  Nat. 
toni.  IS,  table  at  p.  i\(i), — this  family  forming  one-tiftli 
of  the  whole  pluenogamous  vegetation." || 

Prior  to  the  publication  of  the  list,  from  the  prefatory 
remarks  to  which  the  preceding  is  an  extract,  a  short  ca- 
talogue of  })lants,  collected  on  the  east  coast  of  Greenland, 
was  published  by  Mr  Scoresby,   with  some    "marks  b) 


*  Flinders'  Voya<:;e,  ii.  p.  iuiU. 
•\-  Article  Greenland,  in  Brewster's  EncycIopEedia. 
:}:  Tut'key's  Contro,  p.  423. 

Ii  S\in[)lemont  oi  tl'.e  Appendix  to  Captain  Parrv's  First  Vovaire. 
p.  2f)2. 


the  interesting 

wo  primary  <li. 

arrived  at  tin 

■  })erliaj)s  ().V"  of 

onous  to  mono. 

From  a  siibse- 
Jreenlandplant.- 

from  wiiat  In 
lin<^  the  vegeta- 

I  it  not  impro- 
:  correspondiiiiT 
tive  nund)ers  ot 
[; — in  tlie  Hst  ol 
tyledones  beii  j: 
learly  the  equi- 
Spitzberi!;en,  as 
Lterials  hitherto 
appearing  to  k 

II  the  cases  now 
IS  much  on  the 
s  on  the  increase 
lally  saxifrageu 
sland,  however, 
ary  divisions  ol 

I  to  be  depend- 
ished,  leads  to 

s  being  in  tht. 
J  two,  or  in  as 
jserved ;  whiii 
ng  rechiced,  is- 
any  otlier  part 
Sciences  Nat. 
■ming  one-fiftli 

II  the  prefatory 
act,  a  short  ca- 
t  of  Greenlanit 
Tie  -  "marks  b\ 


liu. 


■'s  First  Vovagi- 


PLANTS. 


:vxi 


F)r  Hooker.*  The  female  catkins  of  a  willow,  allie<l  to 
Salix  (innnrid  of  Smith,  are  described  as  extremely 
iR'autiful,  owing  to  the  tine  contrast  between  their  almost 
black  scales  and  the  pure  silky  whiteness  of  their  ger- 
inens.  This  was  the  only  arborous  jjlant  met  with  by 
Mr  Scoresby.  Its  mode  of  growth  was  singular;  for 
although  it  ex[)an(le(l  to  the  extent  of  several  fi-ct,  it  si) 
acconnnodated  itself  to  the  nature  of  that  chilly  climate,  or 
was  so  acted  upon  by  its  ungenial  influence,  tliat  it  otdy 
sj)read  laterally,  and  was  never  observed  to  rise  higher 
than  two  or  three  inches  from  the  ground. t 

In  the  same  year  with  the  i)receding,  the  narrative  of 
Sir  John  Franklin's  first  journey,  already  so  often  re- 
ferred to,  made  its  appearance.  The  Appendix  to  that 
volume  (\o.  vii.  p.  72!))  contams  a  list  of  North  Ameri- 
can plants  by  l)r  Richardson,  which,  however,  is  not 
given  as  containing  any  thing  like  a  full  catalogue  of  tiir 
flora  of  the  (Ustrict  through  which  the  exj)edition  travel- 
led. During  their  sununer  journeys  only  a  small  portion 
of  time  could  be  allotted  to  l)otanical  researches,  and  the 
constant  and  more  important  duties  of  the  officers  j)re- 
vented  their  aiding  the  doctor  at  all  times  in  the  coUec- 
tion  of  specimens,  as  sedulously  as  they  inclined  to  do. 
Under  unavoidable  circumstances,  of  a  very  harassing 
nature,  a  large  proportion  of  plants  may  well  be  supposed 
to  have  escaped  their  notice;  and  the  disastrous  incidenti- 
attending  their  homeward  journey  ac»-oss  the  Barren 
(Jrounds,  from  the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea,  forced  them 
to  leave  behind  the  entire  collections  formed  during  the 
summer  of  1S21,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  specimens 
collected  on  the  banks  of  the  Coppermine  lliver,  ami 
which  had  previously  been  intrusted  to  Mr  Wentzel'*: 
care.  Professor  Schwicgrichen,  when  in  London,  named 
tlie  musci,  and  l)r  Hooker  undertook  the  examination 
of  the  lichenes  and  fungi.  Nothing  more  need  be  said 
to  stamp  a  high  value  on  those  portions  of  the  catalogue. 

Tills  list  contains  (besides  a  few  specimens  described  in 


•  Journal  of  a  Voyage  to  tlie  Northern  Wliale-fislier}',  Ap- 
[XMulix,  No.  II.  p.  410. 

-|-  In  connexion  witli  the  last-named  work  the  reader  may  also 
consult  a  Catalogue  of  Plants  collected  I)y  William  Jameson,  Ks(j., 
suri^eon,  on  the  west  coast  of  Greenland,  drawn  up  hy  Dr  Gre- 
ville,  and  puhlished  in  the  Memoirs  of  tlie  Wernerian  Society, 
vol.  iii.  p.  420. 


;i9i 


NAT!  HAIi  IIISTOKV. 


the  addfiida  by  Mr  Hrowii)  above  (i(i()  species.  Tliese 
are  referable  to  various  classes  in  the  t'oilowiiig  numerical 
proportions: — 


Moii;iri(lriaj 

I  )i;iM(iriav 

'I'l  iandriii,    

'rctiaiidria,. ... 
Pt'iitaiulria,.... 
Ilcxaiidriav  ... 
Ilcptandria, ... 

( )('taMdri:i, 

Di'caiidria, , 

DtKlfcaiidriii,.. 

Icuvandi'ia, , 

l'i)l\aiidria, 

Dydvnaniia, ... 
'retradviiaiMia, 


,\nH)unt  of  S\)cv 


IN. 


1 
II 

1 

2f; 

24 
lA 
23 


Amount  of  Specie* 

iMniiodclMliia,. I 

I)iad('l|tliia, 2I> 

Sviii;(MU'sia, tVJ 

(iviiandria, }> 

.\i..iiavia, 'Ml 

Dia'cia, 2-1 

("rv|)t(»L^aniia, 

Filircs, 1(1 

iNliisci, 73 

II»'i)atiia', Ki 

l<i(ll(MlC.S, 121 

l''iiii^i, lit 

Al^.r, .') 


We  shall  briefly  notice  a  few  species,  remarkable  for 
their  economic  or  other  uses.  The  juice  of  the  Giilinni 
t'nii'torhim  is  used  indiscriminately  with  that  of  ^i^.  horc- 
ti/i',  by  the  women  of  the  Cree  nation,  ibr  tlie  purpose  of 
dying  tlieir  porcujjine  (juills.  The  lead-coloured  fruit  of 
CornHS  ulba  are  called  bear-berries  (mus(|ua-meena)  by 
the  Crees,  because  the  bear  is  known  to  feed  and  fatten  on 
them.  A  new  species  of  i)hlox  was  discovered  by  the 
expedition,  and  named  Phlojc  Hoodit,  "as  a  small  tribute," 
l)r  Jlichardson  informs  us,  "  to  the  memory  of  my  la- 
mented friend  and  companion,  whose  <2;enius,  had  his  hfe 
been  spared,  would  have  raised  him  to  a  conspicuoUvS 
station  in  his  profession,  and  rendered  him  an  ornament 
to  any  science  to  which  he  mif^ht  have  chosen  to  direct 
his  attention."  This  beautiful  plant  is  a  striking  or- 
nament to  the  plains  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Carlton 
Mouse,  where  it  terms  large  ])atches,  conspicuous  from  a 
distance.  The  red  berries  of  the  Vihurttum  edide,  named 
winter-})erries  by  the  Crees,  were  observed  to  l)e  high- 
ly ornamental  to  the  woods.  The  bruised  bark  of  the 
root  of  Azalea  midiraalis  is  ai)plie(l  by  the  Indians  to 
recent  wounds.  The  Li/inin  1  /li/adc/jt/iicNni  is  calle<! 
mouse-root  by  the  Crees,  because  the  common  mouse  of 
tJieir  country  (a  species  of  campagnol)  is  known  to  feed 
upon  its  scaly  bulbs.  The  Canadian  voyagers  use  the 
young  shoots  of  Epilohiain  angu.stijolitnn  as  a  j)Ot-herb. 
under  the  name  of  L'herbefret.   The  Ledum  latifuliuni. 


PLAN  IS. 


:i«). 


cit's.     TliLSc 
ig  nuiiiericiil 

Kumt  of  Specie* 

'.  i>:t 

.v: 

...  }i 

..  :v.« 

Ill 

";;;;;;; r^ 

..   Ml 
1-21 

;;;;; ut 

T) 

emarkablc  for 
t)t'  the  Giilinvi 
mt  of  (f.  />'»•''- 
the  purpose  of 
)loure(l  fruit  of 
[ua-iueeua)  by 
I  and  fatten  on 
•overed  hy  the 
small  tribute:'," 
lory  of  my  la- 
us,  had  his  life 
a  conspicuouvs 
n  an  ornament 
losen  to  direet 
a  striking;  or- 
)()d  of  Carlton 
picuous  from  a 
n  ednle,  named 
■d  to  be  high- 
.^d  bark  of  the 
the  Indians  to 
ieum  is  calle<! 
iimon  mouse  ol" 
known  to  feed 
yagers  use  the 
as  a  pot-herb. 
lum  latifuinm. 


sometimes  used  as  tea,  is  named  ka\vkee-kee-pu('(jua\v 
(Lvergreeii,  or  always  leaves),  and  also  maska-g  or  me- 
dioiui.',  hecause  tlie  natives  think  that  the  white  residrnt^ 
(h'ink  its  iid'usion  as  a  medii-ine.  The  Lci/idh  jm/nsfrc, 
iiceording  to  Dr  Kiehardson,  forms  a  better  suhstitut*- 
tur  tea  than  tile  jjlant  just  named. 

Thi'  Pnnnis  Jlri/ininmi  grows  to  he  a  handsome  small 
n-ee,  rising  on  the  sandy  plains  of  the  Saskatchawan  to 
ihe  height  of '^o  feet,  and  extending  as  far  north  as  (Jreat 
Slave  Lake,  where,  however,  it  attains  the  height  of  only 
live  feet.  Its  fruit,  known  under  the  name  of  ehoke- 
I'herrv,  is  not  very  edible  in  the  reeent  state,  but  forms  a 
ilesirahle  addition  to  peimnican  when  dried  and  bruisfd. 
The  l'i/ru.<i  ordli.s  oi'  I'ursh  is  a  common  plant  as  far  north 
IS  lat.  (J2' ,  aiid  abounds  in  the  plains  of  the  Saskatchawan. 
Its  wood  is  greatly  esteemed  by  the  Crees,  for  the  forma- 
;ion  of  arrows  and  pii)e-stems  ;  it  is  hence  called  hoi.s  </r 
i'u'clic  by  the  Canadian  voyagers.  Its  l)erries,  about  the 
size  of  a  [)ea,  are  the  finest  fruit  in  the  country,  and  are 
used  by  the  Crees  under  the  name  of  Messasscootoom- 
iiieena,  both  fresh  and  dried.  They  make  excellent  pud- 
dings. 

Among  the  Syngenesious  plants  we  shall  signalize  only 
rwo  examples.  The  Crcpi.s  nana,  a  singular  species,  ap- 
pears to  have  been  noticed  by  the  land-ex|)edition  only  on 
the  banks  of  the  Copi)ermine  River.  The  polar  voy- 
agers collected  it  in  Repulse  liay,  Five  Hawser  Hay,  an<l 
Lyon  Inlet. 

The  Cineraria  congcsta,  described  by  Mr  Brown,* 
varies  from  three  to  seven  inches  in  height.  The  leaves  are 
.sometimes  merely  undulated^,  at  other  times  furnishe<l 
with  long,  spreading,  sharp,  unecjual,  tooth-like  j)rocess- 
es.  Generally  the  Howers  are  collected  into  a  remark- 
ai)ly  compact  head ;  but  in  two  specimens  examined  by 
Dr  IIooker,t  several  of  the  iiower-stalks  spring  singly 
from  the  axils  of  the  leaves  up  the  whole  length  of  the 
stem  ;  in  which  case  they  are  mostly  single-flowered, 
truncated,  and  leafy  ;  but  always  clothed,  in  common 
with  the  involucre,  by  a  beautiful  long  and  dense  silky 
wool,  by  which  character  this  species  appears  to  be  prin- 
cipally distinguished  from  C.  palu-sfri^:  Specimens  of 
this  plant  were  gathered  by  Dr  Richardson  in  Bathurst 

•  Apj).  to  Parry's  First  Voyat,^e,  p.  27U.  f  Ibid.  p.  'M^7' 


AUG 


NA'n  UAL  lIlSTOItY. 


Inlet,  on  the  shore  of  the  Arctic  Sea,  on  tlie  '2.ith  of  July. 
According  to  Mr  Kdwanls,  the  individuals  in  Captain 
Parry's  collection,  which  have  elonirated  flower-stalks, 
were  drawn  out  l)y  having  heen  made  to  prrow  on  hoard 
sliij) ;  at  least  he  has  seen  such  treatment  produce  i)re- 
cisely  that  effect ;  and  he  adds  that  in  its  native  i)lace  of 
j!;rowth  he  never  ohserved  the  |)lant  otherwise  than  rt- 
markahly  dense  and  crowded  in  its  inflorescence. 

'I'hehlack  American  spruce  (  7'//;// .V  ;?/7W,Iiaml).)  is  found 
in  swampy  situations  as  far  north  as  lat.  (>.>  ,  where  it  ter- 
minates alonjj;  with  thv lictiiln  /lupi/rdrrn.  The  white  Ame- 
rican spruce  (7*.  ^///>//,  Lain!).)  is  mentioned  hy  Drllichard- 
son  as  the  most  northern  tree  which  came  under  his  ohser- 
vation.  "  On  the  ('oi)permine  llivcr,  within  '20  miles  of 
the  Arctic  Sea,  it  attains  the  height  of  '20  feet  or  more. 
Its  tind)er  is  in  connnon  usethrouijjhout  the  country,  am! 
its  slender  roots,  denominated  Jr<//a/u7/,  are  indispensable 
tocanoe-makersfor  sewinij;  the  slips  of  hirch-hark  toi2;ether. 
The  resin  which  it  exudes  is  used  for  i)aying  over  tlu 
seams  of  the  canoes  ;  and  canoes  for  temporary  purposes 
are  fretjueiuly  formed  of  its  own  hark.  It  is  the  onl\ 
tree  that  the  Es(|uimaux  of  the  Arctic  Sea  have  ficcess  to 
while  growing,  and  they  contrive  to  make  pretty  stronj: 
1k)ws  by  joining  pieces  of  its  wood  together."*  The  Scnili 
or  gray  pine  {Pinus-  Jian/ainna,  Lamb.)^  in  dry  sandy 
soils,  prevails  to  the  exclusion  of  all  others.  It  is  a  hand- 
some tree  with  long,  spreading,  flexible  branches,  gene- 
rally furnished  with  whorled  curved  cones  of  many  years' 
growth.  I  i  attains  the  height  of  lO  feet  and  upwards  in 
favourable  situations ;  but  the  diameter  of  its  trunk  is 
greater  in  proportion  to  its  height  than  that  of  the  other 
pines  of  the  country.  It  exudes  less  resin  than  F.  alba. 
The  Canada  porcupine  feeds  upon  its  bark  ;  and  its  wood, 
from  its  lightness  and  the  straightness  and  toughness  of 
its  fibres,  is  highly  prized  as  canoe  tindjers.  It  was  ob- 
served on  the  route  of  the  overland  expedition  as  far 
north  as  lat.  6 1° ;  but  on  the  sandy  banks  of  the  Macken- 
zie it  is  said  to  attain  to  a  still  higher  latitude.t     Tli 

*  Appendix  to  Krankliirs  First  Journey,  p.  752. 

•\-  Ibid. — This  is  the  only  American  .species  that  makes  any 
approach  in  liabit  and  appearance  to  the  P'luus  sijlvestris^  coii- 
nioiily  calk'd  the  Scotch  tir.     A  di.slintjuishod  writer  in  the  Qua'- 


PLANTS. 


.'{«»; 


?  '>,^jtli()f'«nily. 
lis  ill  CaptJiin 

HowiT-stalks, 
rrow  on  board 

proiliKV  prc- 
lative  i)lace  ot 
rwise  than  rt- 
iceiice. 

'\  wlicre  it  ter- 
ho  wliite  Amt'. 
hy  Drllichard- 
ndcr  liis  ohscr- 
lin  '10  milts  of 
)  feet  or  more, 
le  country,  and 
e  indispensable 
ubark  together, 
flying  over  the 
)orary  purposes 
It  is  the  only 
I  have  access  to 
e  pretty  strong 
."*     The  Send. 
),  in  dry  sandy 
It  is  a  hand- 
iranches,  gene- 
of  many  years' 
[ind  upwards  in 
of  its  trunk  i^^ 
at  of  the  other 
n  than  F.  alba. 
;  and  its  wood, 
d  toughness  ol 
■rs.     It  was  ob- 
pedition  as  far 
of  the  Mackeii- 
.atitude.t     Th 


that  mtikes  any 
,s-  aylvestris,  c»iiv.- 
riler  in  the  Qua'  • 


Amcrici!!  larch  {P.  unrrortirpd.  Lamb.)  was  observed  in 
swamp)  .situations  from  ^'ork  I'actory  to  Woiiit  Lake,  in 
hit.  (>.J  .  It  was  however  of  dwartish  growth  in  the  last- 
named  locality,  sehlom  exeeechng  the  height  of  six  or 
eight  feet. 

One  of  the  most  maurniftcent  of  tlie  new!v-discoveri'<! 
ibrest-trees  of  North  America  is  Landjcrt's  pine  {I'iiiiis 
LdDifiertiniKt,  Douglas).  Its  principal  localities  are  pro- 
luibly  to  the  south  of  tiie  districts  with  u'hich  we  are  here 
more  especially  interested  ;  but  a^  its  northern  i)oun(laries 
are  not  yet  known,  and  as  it  forms  in  itself  so  fine  a  fea- 
ture ill  tills  department  of  l)otany,  we  cannot  leave  it  alto- 
gether unnoticed.  It  covers  large  districts  in  Northern 
California,  ariout  a  hundred  miles  from  the  ocean,  in  lat. 
i;}  north,  and  extends  as  far  south  as  1  '.  It  grows  sj)ar- 
ingly  upon  low  hills,  and  the  undulating  country  east  of 
a  range  of  mountains,  rumiing  in  a  south-western  direc- 
tion from  the  Rocky  Mountains  towards  tiie  sea,  where 
the  soil  consists  entirely  of  j)ure  sand.  It  forms  no  dense 
forests  like  most  of  the  other  pines  of  North  America, 
but  is  seen  scattered  singly  over  the  plains,  more  after  the 
manner  of  Pinn,s  rcsinosa.  The  trunk  of  this  gigantic 
tree  attains  a  iieight  of  from  1.50  to  upwards  of  'i.io  feet, 
varying  from  20  to  nearly  (iO  feet  in  circumference ; — thus 
far  exceeding 

"  The  tallest  pine 
Hewn  on  Norwc^^iaii  hills  to  bo  the  mast 
Of  some  ^reat  ammiral." 

The  stem  is  remarkably  straight,  and  is  destitute  of 
branches  for  about  two-thirds  of  its  height.  The  bark  is 
uncommonly  smooth  for  such  large  timber ;  of  a  light- 
brown  colour  on  the  south,  and  bleached  on  the  north  side. 
The  branches  are  rather  pendulous,  and  form  an  oj)en 
pyramidal  head,  with  that  ap])earance  which  is  j)eculiar 
to  the  abies  tribe.  The  leaves  are  rigid,  from  four  to  five 
inches  long,  of  a  bright  green  colour,  and  grow  in  fives. 
The  cones  are  pendulous  from  the  extremities  of  the 
branches,  and  when  ripe  measure  about  1 1  inches  in  cir- 


terly  Review  ascribed  tlie  deterioration  of  our  plantations  of  the 
last-named  tree,  to  the  circumstance  of  our  nurserymen  findinj;  it 
cheaper  to  import  cones  from  Canada,  than  to  [)ay  tor  gathering; 
them  in  Braemar, — a  charg'e,  hov.ever,  from  wliich  the  trade  must 
be  fully  and  freely  acquitted,  as  tlie  Finns  sylvestris  does  not  in 
fact  exist  iii  America. 


:i9H 


NATl  llAfi  IIISTOUV. 


cumfercnce  at  tlie  thickest  part,  and  from  12  to  UJ  inches 
in  leii;^tli.  'J'he  scales  are  hix,  rounded,  and  destitute  of 
spines.  The  seeds  are  lar<:;e,  ei^ht  Hues  lon<2;  and  four 
broad,  of  an  oval  form.  Their  kernel  is  sweet  and  of  a 
pleasant  taste.  The  tim})er  is  white,  soft,  and  lii^ht.  It 
abounds  in  turpentine  reservoirs  ;  its  specific  <;ravity  is 
<)'1()3;  and  the  whole  tree  produces  an  abundance  of  am- 
ber-coloured resin.  'J'hat  which  exudes  from  the  tree 
when  it  is  partly  burned  loses  its  usual  flavour,  and 
accjuires  a  sweet  taste,  in  Aviiieh  slate  it  is  used  by  the 
natives  as  sugar,  being  mixed  with  their  food.*  The 
seeds  also  are  eaten  when  roasted,  and  they  are  likewise 
pounded  into  coarse  cakes  and  stored  for  winter  use.t 

Numerous  species  of  willow  occur  in  the  Northern  lli'- 
gions  of  America, — they  are  not  yet  well  defined.  Tiu 
plant  wdiich  yields  the  whorthhcrry  [E))ij)f'frnm  nignoii.) 
is  valuable  in  these  inhospitable  regions.  Its  fruit,  after 
the  first  frosts,  is  juicy  and  very  pleasant  ;  it  is  much 
sought  after  and  carefully  hoarded  by  the  difierent  kinds 
of  marmot,  and  forms  the  autunmal  food  of  that  speciej^ 
of  duck  called  A)iaii  hijperborea.  The  Indian  women  use 
tlie  buds  of  Mijriea  gale  to  dye  their  porcupine  quills. 
The  American  trembUng  po})lar  {Popu/n.s-  trrpida)  occurs 
from  Hudson's  Bay  as  far  to  the  northward  of  Great  Slave 
Lake  as  lat.  G\^.  It  is  found  to  burn  better  in  a  green 
state  than  any  other  tree  of  the  country.     The  form  o\ 


*  Mr  David  Douglas,  in  Linn.  Trans.,  vol.  xv.,  and  Edin.  New 
Pliil.  .I()\n-.,  vol,  V.  p.  401. 

-|-  Wt"  trust  that  our  ucoomplislied  correspondent,  Dr  Traill  of 
Liverpool,  will  excuse  our  niakini^  the  following;'  extract  from  on< 
(if  his  |)riv;ite  letters.  "  Have  you  seen  Di/U^his  ?  I  was  greatK 
please(l  with  Ins  intelligence  and  modesty.  lie  ^ave  me  a  njost 
interesting  sketch  of  his  travels  beyond  the  Hocky  Moimtains. 
and  a  simple  hut  appalling  account  of  t'le  privations  of  a  travellei 
in  that  part  of  the  New  World.  The  contrast  between  th.'  .e^e- 
tation  oi  the  western  and  eastern  sides  of  the  chain  is  striking-.  I'lic 
variety  of  oaks,  ju^landes,  and  eims,  interspersed  with  maj.^lolia^ 
and  rhododendrons,  form  tlu'  strikin^r  peculiarities  of  the  eastern, — 
but  beyond  the  mountains  only  one  species  of  oak  is  found,  while 
neither  elms,  jui>;landes,  nor  magnolias  occur,  and  only  a  single 
rhododendron,  it  is,  however,  the  favourite  haunt  of  the  u;iant 
pine.  He  had  measured  several  more  than  2')0  feet  hi^h, — he  saw 
some  still  taller,  and  took  the  circinnference  of  a  stem  denuded  ot 
its  bark,  which  was  4}{  feet  in  circumfereiu'e,  and  at  l!H)  feet  from 
ils  base  still  bore  a  circuniterence  of  4.';  feet.  The  annuui  rin;/^ 
on  one  stem  were  ascertained  to  be  nine  hundred.'^ 

7 


I'LANTS. 


39!' 


2  to  l(')  inchts 
1(1  destitute  of 
long  and  tour 
weet  and  of  a 
and  li,i2;lit.  It 
•itie  f2;ravity  is 
ndance  of  ani- 
froui  the  tret 
flavour,  and 
is  used  by  the 
'  food.*  The 
jy  are  hkewise 
inter  use.t 
Northern  IV- 
detineih  The 
frnrn  nigrun/) 
Its  fruit,  after 
it  ;  it  is  much 
ditt'erent  kinds 
of  that  speciet^ 
lian  women  use 
rcupine  quills. 
frcpifhi)  occurs 
of  Great  Slave 
■tter  in  a  p;reen 
The  form  of 

and  Ivlin.  Nou 

'lit,  Dr  Traill  (.1 

\tract  from  oiU' 

?    I  was  ^reatlv 

::;ave  mo  a  iDost 

M'kv   iVIoulltaiIl^. 

)ns  of  a  travclloi 

'tween  til'.'  .<>»:v- 

1  is  striking;-.    The 

(1  with  nu^j.l;nolia^ 

of  tlio  eastern,— 

k  is   found,  while 

md  only  a  siii|^lc 

unt  of  the  i>;iaiit 

ot  hij^rli, — he  saw 

stem  denuded  (ii 

at  l!)0  feet  from 

le  annual  rinij^ 


the  leaf-stalk  in  this  species  is  hic^ldy  curious,  and  beau- 
tifully accords  with,  and  accounts  for,  its  coiitinual  men- 
tion,— the  upper  i)art  beini^  rounded,  and  suddenly,  at 
its  junction  with  the  leaf,  becomiui^  so  thin  and  flat  as  to 
have  scarcely  sufficient  strenj:;th  to  support  it.  The  bal- 
sam po})lar  {P.  ha/.sdtnifcrd)  may  be  said  to  grow  to  ;< 
great(?r  circumference  than  any  other  species  in  these 
northern  regions.  Although  it  burns  badly  when  green. 
and  gives  little  heat,  its  ashes  yield  a  great  ([uantitN 
of  potash.  It  was  traced  as  far  north  as  (ireat  Slave 
Lake,  and  the  south  branch  of  the  Mackenzie  has  been 
namjtl  Riviere  au\  Liards  from  its  fre(}uent  prevalence  in 
that  (juarter.  (ireat  j)art  of  the  drift-timber  observed  on 
the  shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea  belongs  to  this  species  of  tree. 
It  is  called  ugly  poplar  (matheh-meetoos)  by  the  (,'rees. 

The  fruit  of  the  common  juniper  is  known  under  the 
api)ellation  of  cro wherry  to  the  last-named  nation  ;  and 
iUiother  species  of  that  i)lant,  of  almost  equal  frefpiency 
{Jiinipern.s  p)'(hstrata),  grows  close  to  the  ground,  and 
sends  out  Hagelliform  branches  two  yards  long. 

Of  the  Musci  we  shall  here  mention  the  Sphichnum 
innioiik-s  which  is  very  common  on  the  Barren  (iroimds. 
where  it  forms  little  tufts,  the  roots  of  which  are  found 
always  to  include  the  hones  of  some  small  animal.  Di- 
rraaiDu  vlonyfitnm  likewise  occurs  on  those  desolate  dis- 
tricts, where,  with  other  species  of  the  genus,  it  forms 
dense  tufts  very  troublesome  to  pedestrians.  These  are 
called  "women's  heads"  by  the  Indians,  "because,"  say 
the  latter,  "  when  you  kick  them,  they  do  not  get  out  ol' 
the  way;" — a  fine  commentary  on  a  life  of  unsophisticated 
nature,  and  a  beautiful  illustration  of  the  refined  ideas 
which  prevail  in  countries 

"  Where  wild  in  woods  the  noblc:  savage  runs." 

Of  the  Lichenes,  of  which  there  are  many  species  in 
these  northern  countries,  we  shall  name  a  few  exam])les. 
Gyrophoru  proho-scidea  is  found  on  rocks  on  the  Barren 
(irounds,  and  is  more  abundant  tow^ards  the  Arctic  Sea 
tlian  G.  ftf/pcrborm.  These  two  species,  in  common  with  G. 
Pennsiilvanicd  and  JMerktenfn'rijn,  were  found  in  greater 
or  less  abundance  in  almost  all  rocky  places  throughout  the 
northern  portions  of  the  overland  journey.  They  were 
all  four  used  as  food ;  but  as  our  travellers  had  not  tin 
means  of  extracting  the  bitter  principle  from  them,  they 


100 


NAT!  KAL  HIST(tm'. 


proved  injurious  to  several  of  the  party  by  inducing  se- 
vere })o\vel-coniplaints.  'i'lie  Indians  reject  tliem  all  ex- 
(•e])t  G.  M(>c/i/enh(>r(/ii,  which,  when  boiled  along  with 
tish-roe  or  other  animal  matter,  is  agreeable  and  nutri- 
tious. The  last-named  lichen  is,  however,  rather  scarce  on 
tlie  Barren  Grounds;  and  l)r  Richardson  and  his  com- 
panions were  obliged  to  resort  to  the  other  three,  which, 
though  they  served  the  purpose  of  allaying  the  aj)petite, 
were  found  to  be  very  ineHicientin  restoring  or  recruiting 
strength.  The  G.  vellea  is  characteristic  of  moist  and 
shady  rocks,  and  is  consequently  most  luxuriant  in  woods. 
!t  forms  a  pleasanter  food  than  any  of  the  species  we 
have  named  ;  l)ut  it  unfortunately  occurs  Init  sparingly  on 
the  Barren  (irounds,  where  its  presence  would  be  most 
desirable.  A  new  plant  named  Cetruria  liic/uird.sonii  by 
l)r  Hooker,  was  found  on  these  grounds  generally  in  the 
tracks  of  the  rein-deer.  It  did  not  appear  to  occur  to  the 
southward  of  the  (xreat  Slave  Lake.  About  a  score  of 
fungi  were  picked  up  by  our  scientific  travellers.  Ex- 
elusive  of  a  conferva,  and  the  fragment  of  a  floridea,  the 
Fucufi  eeranoides  was  the  only  alga  observed  in  the  Arctic 
Seas.* 

The  Appendix  to  Captain  Parry's  second  voyage  was 
j)ublished  in  lH2o,  and  contains,  among  other  highly- 
prized  contributions,  a  botanical  Appendix  by  I)r  Hooker. 
When  the  extent  of  the  collections  examined  by  that  ac- 
complished botanist  is  consitlered,  a  greater  accession  of 
new  s})ecies  might  have  been  expected  than  actually  oc- 
currecl ;  but  this  is  perhaps  to  be  explained  by  the  cir- 
cumstance of  the  countries  explored  during  the  secoc. 
voyage  being  as  it  were  intermediate  between  those  prr 
viously  examined, — Melville  Island  being  to  the  north, 
anil  the  continental  portion  of  America,  bordering  the 
Arctic  Sea,  lying  to  the  south  of  the  districts  to  which 
we  at  present  more  immediately  refer.  This,  in  tlie  opi- 
nion of  l)r  Hooker,  diminisbed  tlie  probability  of  the  oc- 
currence of  many  new  species.  In  point  of  mere  num- 
ber, however,  the  second  collections  very  considerably 
exceeded  those  of  the  preceding  voyage, — and  this  may 
be  explained  partly  by  the  more  southern  latitude  in 
which  the  plants  were  gathered,  and  partly  by  the  length 
of  time  spent  in  those  districts.     Dr  Hooker  conceives 


4 

I'il 


Appendix  to  Frauklin'.s  First  Journey,  p.  7'>3. 


PLANTS. 


401 


inducing  se- 
:  them  all  ex- 
(l  along  with 
ie  and  nutri- 
ther  scarce  on 
and  his  corn- 
three,  which, 

the  appetite, 
r  or  recruiting 

of  moist  and 
iant  in  woods, 
he  s])ecies  we 
It  sparingly  on 
vould  he  most 
ichard.sonii  by 
enerally  in  the 
to  occur  to  the 
)out  a  score  of 
avellen-.  Kx- 
a  floridea,  the 
;d  in  the  Arctic 

kl  voyage  was 
other  highly- 
by  l)r  Hooker, 
led  hy  that  ac- 
accession  of 
m  actually  oc- 
led  by  the  cir-. 
ng  the  secoc. 
een  those  pr« 
to  the  north, 
bordering  the 
ricts  to  which 
his,  in  t)ie  opi- 
)iUty  of  the  oc- 
of  mere  num- 
considerably 
-and  this  may 
rn  latitude  in 
by  the  length 
oker  conceives 


,  p.  7<>Ii. 


that,  as  an  illustration  of  the  botanical  productions  of  a 
region  extending  from  between  lat.  62°  to  7()^  north,  his 
catalogue  may  be  regarded  as  tolerably  complete.  The 
variety  of  cryptogamia  is  particularly  great,  and  the  her- 
baria were  in  such  admirable  order  as  to  reflect  the  high- 
est credit  on  the  skill  and  assiduity  of  the  gentlemen  by 
whom  *hey  were  collected  and  preserved. 

"  It  may  not  be  amiss,"  I)r  Hooker  observes,  "  to  no- 
tice here  the  extreme  diflicuity  which  attends  the  deter- 
mination of  what  ought  and  what  ought  not  to  be  consi- 
dered as  good  species  among  Arctic  plants.  Vegetables 
of  our  own  more  southern  latitudes  often  assume,  in  those 
frigid  regions,  an  aspect  quite  different  from  what  we  are 
accustomed  to  see  them  wear ;  and  which,  without  refer- 
ring to  a  very  extensive  series  of  specimens,  might  well 
be  supposed  to  afford  decided  marks  of  specific  distinc- 
tion. Mr  Jkown  seems  to  be  fully  aware  of  this,  and  he 
speaks  with  caution  of  the  identity  of  several  of  his  new 
species.  In  more  than  one  instance,  after  having  tlrawn 
out  a  description  of  a  supposed  new  individual,  1  have 
found  cause  to  alter  my  opinion  concerning  it,  and  finally 
to  consider  it  only  as  a  variety  of  a  well-known  kind ; 
nor  shall  I  be  surprised  if  future  observations  should  show- 
that  my  Saxifraya  plantayhiifolia  nmst  be  united  to  S. 
nivalis,  and  my  ChrysuHikermim  grandijiorum  io  C.  ino- 
doriun,  though  at  first  sight  nothing  can  ap;)ear  more  dis- 
tinct."* 

We  shall  conclude  this  branch  of  the  subject  by  a  few 
miscellaneous  notices  of  recently-discovered  species. 

The  ten-leaved  everlasting  pea  {Lathyrus  decaphyllus) 
v/as  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Saskatchawan  by  l)r 
Richardson  and  Mr  Drummond.  It  is  adorned  by  fine 
heads  of  flowers,  of  a  bright  rwl  colour  before  expan. 
sion,  but  which  become  purple  as  they  open.  This  is  an 
exceedingly  ornamental  plant,  measuring  about  three  feet 
in  height.  It  was  first  raised  in  this  country  by  Mr  Pa- 
trick Neill  of  Canonmills,  a  gentleman  w'U  known  for 
his  encouragement  of  horticulture,  and  for  his  general 
attainments  in  many  branches  of  natural  science. 

Franklin's  eutoca  {Eutoca  Fra7iklinii).f     This  inte- 

*  Appendix  to  Parry's  Second  Vovaj^e  to  the  Arctic  Uej^Mons, 
p.  3«2. 
•f*  Botanical  Magazine,  t.  2*J85 . 

2  B 


i 


409 


NATUKAL  HISTORY. 


resting  annual  was  discovered  by  Dr  Richardson  during,' 
the  first  overland  expedition.  It  was  found  growing  in 
abundance  amongst  trees  that  had  been  destroyed  by  tire, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Missinnippi,  and  was  named  by  -Mr 
Brown  in  honour  of  the  leader  of  the  gallant  band.*  It 
has  now  become  well  known  in  our  gardens,  the  seeds 
collected  during  the  second  expedition  having  been  pretty 
generally  distributed.  It  is  a  hardy  plant,  which  recom- 
mends itself  to  notice  by  the  profusion  of  its  bright  blue- 
coloured  blossoms.t 

The  seashore  lupin  {Lupimts  Uttoralis).X  This  or- 
namental and  hardy  perennial  was  discovered  by  Mr 
Douglas,  who  found  it  "  growing  abundantly  on  the  sea- 
shore of  North-west  America,  from  Cape  Mendocino  to 
Puget's  Sound.  Its  tough  branching  roots  are  service- 
able in  binding  together  the  loose  sand,  and  'hey  are  also 
used  by  the  natives  of  the  river  Columbia  as  winter  food, 
being  prepared  by  the  simple  process  of  drawing  them 
through  the  fire  until  all  their  moisture  is  dissipated. 
The  roots  are  then  tied  up  in  small  buntUes,  and  will  keep 
for  several  months  ;  when  eaten,  they  are  roasted  on  the 
embers,  and  become  farinaceous.  The  vernacular  name 
of  this  plant  is  Somnuchtan ;  and  it  is  the  liquorice 
s})oken  of  by  Lewis  and  Clarke,  and  by  the  navigators 
who  have  visited  the  north-west  coast  of  America." 

We  may  add  that  Mr  Douglas  has  enriched  our  gar- 
dens by  upwards  of  ten  new  species  of  this  fine  genus. 

Beautiful  Clarkia  {ClarJda  pulchella).\\  This  hardy 
annual  deserves  its  specific  name,  as  it  is  really  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  which  has  been  recently  introduced  to  our 
gardens.  It  was  first  discovered  by  Mr  Lewis  on  the'Koos- 
koosky  and  Clarke  Rivers,  but  was  afterwards  found  by 
Mr  Douglas  extending  from  the  great  falls  of  the  Colum- 
bia to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and  seeds  were  forwarded 
by  him  to  the  London  Horticultural  Society.  The 
fiowers  are  generally  of  a  fine  lilac  colour,  but  a  pure 
white  variety  is  also  known. 

Mr  Douglas  discovered  in  the  northern  parts  of  Ame- 
rica, and  introduced  into  the  British  gardens,  about  fif- 
teen new  species  of  Pentstemon,  all  of  which  are  orna- 


*  Addenda  to  Ap[)endi.x  to  Franklin's  First  Journey,  p.  7C4,  ami 
tab.  27. 
t  Ur  Hooker,  in  Bot.  Mag.      +  Ibid.  t.  2952.     H  Ibid.  t.  2911]. 


-ii-  r^^^Pg'^^-'*'^^^*^''''^'^''"'*"**'*'''^ 


PLAXI'S. 


W.i 


nlson  duriiij^ 
cl  growing  in 
■oyed  by  tire, 
lamed  by  Mr 
It  band  *  It 
ns,  the  seeds 
cr  been  pretty 
which  recom- 
s  bright  blue- 

).%     This  or- 
ivered  by  Mr 
:ly  on  the  sea- 
Mendocino  to 
ts  are  service- 
1  'hey  are  also 
IS  winter  food, 
drawing  them 
is  dissipated. 
i,  and  will  keep 
roasted  on  the 
n*nacular  name 
;  the  hquorice 
the  navigators 
America." 
fiched  our  gar- 
i  fine  genus. 
II     This  hardy 
eally  one  of  the 
Toduc'ed  to  our 
isonthe'Koos. 
ards  found  by 
of  the  C'olum- 
ere  forwarded 
[Society.      The 
but  a  pure 

parts  of  Ame- 
[lens,  about  tit- 
vhich  are  orna- 


mental,  and  many  exceedingly  beautiful  herbaceous  plants. 
To  the  same  intelligent  and  indefatigable  collector  we  are 
also  indebted  for  several  fine  species  of  Oenothera  or  tree- 
primrose.  We  owe  to  Dr  Ilicliardson  and  Mr  Drum- 
monrl  the  introduction  to  our  gardens  of  the  following 
species : — viz.  Gvrardia  capitata,  a  handsome  perennial  ; 
an  apparently  new  species  of  Dodpcdtfteon,  which  has 
flowered  this  summer  in  the  Edinburgh  Botanic  (iarden  ; 
Andromeda  tetragona,  Mcnziesia  empetrifolia,  Azalea 
Lapponica  (three  very  beautiful  small  shrubby  plants), 
and  Dryas  Drummondii,  Tlie  last-named  plant  bears 
yellow  flowers.  Of  the  other  two  known  species  of  the 
iienus,  .one  of  which  is  a  native  of  the  mountains  of 
Scotland,  the  flowers  are  white. 


lurney,  p.  7C4,  and 
I.     11  Ibid.  1.29113. 


VOi 


NATUHAL  IIISTOIIV. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Sketch  of  the  Geological  Features  of  .some  of  the  Northern 
Districts  of  America. 

Krozpn  Subsoil  of  Hudson's  Bay — Primitive  Rocks  of  Hayes  Ri- 
ver—  Hill  River— Borders  of  Knee  Lake — Remarkable  Rttck- 
island  of  Maijnetic  Iron  Ore — Lake  Winipejj;' — Limestone  Dis- 
trict—  Port  Cliipewyan — Carp  j.ake— Gneiss  Pormation  of  the 
Barren  Grounds — Transj)arent  Waters  of  (ireat  Bear  Lake — 
Kort  Franklin — Bear  Lake  River — Lignite  Pormation  of  Mac- 
kenzie River — S))ontaneons  Fire — Pipe-day — Alluvial  Islands 
at  tlie  Moutli  of  the  Mackenzie — Copper  ^lountains — Copper- 
mine River — Lslands  of  the  Arctic  Sea — Arctic  Shore — (.ajx! 
Barrow — Galena  Point — Moore's  Bay — Bankes'  Peninsula — Bar- 
ry's Island — Cape  Croker — Point  Turnafj^ain — General  Occur- 
rence ol"  the  New  Red  Sandstone — Hood's  River — Wilberforcc 
Falls — Gneiss  Formation — General  Sununary. 

Thk  great  extent  of  country  traversed  by  our  overland 
adventurers,  the  dreary  continuance  of  that  universal  snow, 
which  so  long  rendered  the  surface  of  the  earth  in  many 
places  almost  inaccessible,  the  frequent  journeys  in  canoes. 
ij.nd  the  difficulties  which  almost  perpetually  prevailed  in 
the  way  of  transporting  weighty  articles,  prevented  a 
complete  or  very  satisfactory  knowledge  being  obtained 
of  the  geological  structure  of  the  Northern  Regions  of 
America.*     For  the  reasons  stated  beloAv,  we  shall  hen 

*  In  the  first  volume  of  the  Edinburg'h  Cabinet  Librarj',  en- 
titled,  "  Narrative  of  Discovery  and  Adventure  in  the  Polar  Sea.'- 
and  Reg'ions,"  the  reader  will  find  a  chapter  on  Arctic  Geolog-y  In 
Professor  Jameson,  in  which  the  characteristic  formations  of  Clic- 
rie  Island,  Jan  Mayen's  Island,  Spitzberjjen,  Old  Greenland,  and 
the  various  insular  and  continental  shores  explored  by  the  expedi- 
tions under  Captains  Ross  and  Parr}',  are  described  and  commented 
on.  So  far,  therefore,  as  regards  many  of  the  great  North-eastern 
Regions  of  America,  we  beg  to  refer  the  reader  to  Professor  Jame- 
son's skilful  summary.  See  also  Observations  on  the  Rock  Speci- 
mens collected  during  the  First  Polar  Voyage,  by  Cliarles  Koni^^ 
Ks(|.     Supplement  to  the  Appendix,  p.  24y. 


ippp- 


'mm^imimimii 


GEOLOGY. 


405 


fthe  Northern 


cks  of  Hayes  Ri- 
ernarkable  Hock- 
_Liniest(»ne  Dis- 
Formation  of  the 
eat  Bear  Lake— 
'ormatiou  of  Mac- 
-Alliivial  Islan(l> 
)untain.s— Copper- 
ctic  Shore — (.a|K! 
4'  Peninsula— Bar- 
—General  Occiir- 
iver — Wilberforw 


ly  our  overland 
universal  snow, 
earth  in  many 
rneys  in  canoes, 
ly  prevailed  in 
s,  prevented  a 
being  obtained 
ern  Regions  of 
we  shall  hert 


;s 


)inet  Library,  en- 
in  the  Polar  Sen- 
Arctic  Geology  h) 
)rniations  of  Clie- 
d  Greenland,  and 
red  by  the  expedi 
;d  and  commented 
eat  North-eastern 
o  Professor  Jame- 
n  the  Rock  Speii- 
jy  Charles  Koni^^ 


confine  our  observations  to  certain  restricted  districts  of 
those  regions. 

Between  the  fifty-sixtli  and  fifty-cightli  parallol;^  the 
western  sliores  of  Hudson's  IJay  are  extremely  fiat,  and 
the  depth  of  water  decreases  very  gradually  on  aj)proach- 
ing  them.  Dr  Richardson  states  that  in  seven  fathoms 
of  water  the  tops  of  the  trees  are  just  visible  from  a  ship's 
deck.  Large  ))Oulder-stonos  are  scattered  over  tiie  beach, 
and  sometimes  form  shoals  as  far  as  five  miles  from  shore. 
Tiiese  are,  of  course,  troublesome  and  dangerous  to  boats. 
Hayes  and  XelsoJi  Rivers  enter  Hudson's  IJay  about  the 
central  portion  of  this  quarter.  They  are  separated  on 
reaching  the  coast  merely  by  a  low  alluvial  point  of  land, 
on  which  York  Factory  is  stationed.  A  low  and  uni- 
formly swampy  aspect  characterizes  the  surrounding 
country,  and  the  banks  of  Hayes  River  at  least  for  fifty 
miles  inland.  The  upper  soil  presents  a  thin  stratum  of 
half-decayed  mosses,  immediately  under  which  we  find 
a  thick  bed  of  tenacious  and  somewhat  slaty  bluish  clay 
containing  boulder-stones.  Forests,  consisting  chiefly  of 
spruces,  larches,  and  poplars,  occur,  but  the  individual 
trees,  except  under  local  circumstances  of  a  favourable 
nature,  are  of  small  size. 

The  subsoil  is  generally  frozen,  and  as  it  consequently 
retains  a  great  deal  of  the  surface-water,  swamps  of 
sphagna  and  other  mosses  are  always  being  formed  ;  but 
the  bright  summer  days,  though  long,  are  few,  and  as 
vegetation  thus  decays  but  slowly,  little  peat  occurs. 
During  a  favourable  season  the  ground  thaws  to  the  depth 
of  about  four  feet ;  but  there  still  remains,  it  is  said,  a 
frozen  bed  of  ten  or  eleven  feet,  beneath  which  we  find 
loose  sand.  As  the  earth  is  not  thus  permanently  frozen 
in  the  interior  countries  of  North  America,  the  ungenial 
condition  of  the  soil  about  York  Factory  ought  probably 
to  be  attributed  .0  the  neighbourhood  of  the  sea,  which  is 
too  much  encumbered  with  ice  during  winter  to  mitigate 
the  severity  of  those  naturally  frost-bound  regions,  and 
being  laden  along  shore  with  numerous  icebergs  and  other 
insulated  masses^  even  to  the  middle  of  iVugust,  must  of 
course  diminish  the  intensity  of  the  summer  heat.* 

The  boulder-stones  just  mentioned  show  that  there 

*  Appendix  to  F'raiiklin's  First  Journey  to  the  Shores  of  tlie 
Polar  Sea,  p.  4yi». 


I 


lOli 


NATURAL  IIISTORV. 


occur  in  the  district  of  Hayes  Hiver  several  primitiv/' 
rocks,  such  as  red  j^rauite,  liornblende  rock,  gneiss,  and 
syenite ;  of  the  trtni.sit'ion  class,  gray wacke ;  and  of  the 
•secondurii  class,  red  sandstone, — belonging  pro])ahly  to  the 
new  red  sandstone  formation,  in  which  is  included  tht- 
rothegende  and  variegated  sandstone.  Two  kinds  of  Ume- 
stone  likewise  occur  in  this  district. 

The  hanks  of  Steel  Uiver,  the  principal  branch  of  the 
Hayes,  present  the  same  general  characters  as  those  of  the 
stream  into  which  it  flows.  The  same  may  be  said  of 
Fox  and  Hill  Rivers,  the  union  of  which  forms  the  Steel 
River.  However,  on  the  lower  parts  of  Hill  River  the 
banks  are  more  varied  in  their  outlines,  and  rising  more 
precii)itately  and  from  a  narrow  channel,  they  attain  to  an 
elevation  of  nearly  200  feet.  About  a  mile  below  the 
Rock  Portage,  that  is,  about  100  miles  from  the  sea, 
rocks  first  occur  in  ,situ.  They  consist  of  gneiss,  and 
rise  in  the  channel  of  the  river  from  beneath  lofty  banks 
of  clay.  This  gneiss  formation  seems  to  extend  to  Lake 
Winipeg,  and  contains  subordinate  beds  and  veins  of 
granite,  and  beds  of  hornblende  rock,  and  mica-slate. 
At  the  Swampy  Portage  a  bed  of  red  felspar  occurs.  It 
contains  small  grains  of  epidote,  and  at  the  Upper  Portage 
hornblende-slate  was  observed,  alternating  with  gray  gneiss, 
slightly  intermingled  with  hornblende,  together  with  betls 
of  ([uartz  rock  containing  precious  garnets.  At  the  Lower 
Portage  on  Jack  River  (the  name  of  Hill  River  after 
crossing  Swampy  Lake)  a  red  granite  occurs.  The  rocks 
on  Jack  l{i\  ^r  are  low,  with  a  very  spare  covering  of  soil ; 
the  woods  are  thin,  and  the  surrounding  country  flat. 
The  borders  of  Knee  Lake  present  similar  characters  ;  but 
in  one  spot  which  was  examined  on  account  of  its  ex- 
liibiting  a  m.ore  luxuriant  growth  of  trees,  the  soil  was 
still  thin,  but  the  subjacent  rock  consisted  of  primitive 
greenstone,  with  disseminated  iron  pyrites.  "  About  half 
a  mile  from  the  bend  or  knee  of  the  lake,"  says  Sir  John 
Franklin,  "  there  is  a  small  rocky  island,  composed  of 
magnetic  iron  ore,  which  affects  the  magnetic  needle  at 
a  considerable  distance.  Having  received  previous  infor- 
mation respecting  this  circumstance,  we  watched  our  com- 
passes carefuUy,  and  perceived  that  they  were  affected  at 
the  distance  of  three  hundred  yards,  both  on  the  ap- 
proach to  and  departure  from  the  rock:  on  decreasing 
tlie  distance  they  became  gradually  more  and  more  un- 


I 


Gi:<>LO(;Y 


40; 


cral  primitivr 
k,  gneisK,  ami 
:e ;  ami  of  the 
probably  to  the 
i  included  the 
I  kinds  of  lime- 
branch  of  the 
as  those  of  the 
lay  be  said  of 
brnis  the  Steel 
Hill  lliver  the 
id  rising  more 
ley  attain  to  an 
nile  below  the 
from  the  sea, 
of  gneiss,  and 
ath  lofty  banks 
L'xtend  to  Lake 
5  and  veins  of 
ind  mica-slate, 
lar  occurs.     It 
Upper  Portage 
rith  gray  gneiss, 
ther  with  betls 
At  the  Lower 
ill  River  after 
rs.     The  rocks 
vering  of  soil ; 
;;  country  flat. 
;haracters ;  but 
unt  of  its  ex- 
s,  the  soil  was 
id  of  primitive 
"  About  half 
says  Sir  John 
,  composed  of 
luetic  needle  at 
previous  infor- 
ched  our  com- 
ere  affected  at 
h  on  the  ap- 
on  decreasing 
and  more  un- 


steady, and  on  landing  they  were  rendered  useless  ;  and 
it  was  evident  that  the  general  magnetic  influence  wa> 
totally  overpowered  by  the  local  attraction  of  the  ore. 
When  Kater's  compass  was  held  near  to  the  ground,  on 
the  north-west  side  of  the  island,  the  needle  (lipj)ed  so 
nuich  that  the  card  could  not  be  made  to  traverse  by  any 
adjustment  of  the  hand ;  but  on  moving  the  same  com- 
pass about  thirty  yards  to  the  west  part  of  the  islet,  the 
needle  became  horizontal,  traversed  freely,  and  pointed  to 
the  magnetic  north."* 

We  are  indebted  to  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie  for  the 
valuable  observation,  that  the  principal  lakes  in  thest- 
northern  quarters  are  interposed  between  the  primitive 
rocks  and  the  secondary  strata  which  lie  to  the  westward 
of  them.  Of  tliis  Lake  \V^ini})eg  aflbrds  a  good  example. 
It  is  a  long  narrow  sheet  of  water,  bounded  on  its  eastern 
side  by  primitive  rocks,  which  are  mostly  granitic,  whilst 
horizontal  limestone  strata  form  its  more  indented  western 
shore. 

The  north  shore  of  Lake  Winipeg  is  formed  into  a 
peninsula  by  Play-Cireen  Lake  and  Limestone  Bay. 
Steep  clifl's  of  clay  are  here  prevalent,  similar  to  those 
which  preceded  the  gneiss  in  Hill  River,  but  containing 
rather  more  calcareous  matter.  The  beach  is  composed 
of  calcareous  sand,  and  fragments  of  water-worn  lime- 
stone, of  which  there  are  two  kinds, — the  one  yellowish- 
white,  dull,  with  conchoiilal  fracture  and  translucent 
edges ;  the  other  bluish  and  yellowish-gray,  dull,  with  an 
earthy  fracture  and  opacjue.  l)r  Richardson  did  not  ob- 
serve any  rocks  of  the  former  kind  in  situ  in  this  neigh- 
lx)urhood,  although  cUtfs  of  the  latter  were  apparent  on  the 
west  side  of  Limestone  Bay,  and  continued  to  bountl  the 
lake  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  the  Saskatchawan,  and  were 
reported  to  spread  down  the  whole  of  its  western  shore. 

The  extension  of  the  limestone  deposite  of  Lake  Wini- 
peg, in  a  w-esterly  direction,  has  not  been  ascertained,  but 
it  has  been  traced  as  far  up  the  Saskatchawan  as  Carlton 
House,  where  it  is  at  least  '2S()  miles  in  breadth. 

This  limestone  extends  over  a  vast  tract  of  country, 
and  may  in  general  be  characterized  as  compact,  splinty, 
and  yellowish-gray.  It  is  very  testaceous,  anil  large  por- 
tions of  it  are  entirely  composed  of  bivalve  shells.     In 

*  Journey  to  the  Shores  of  the  Polar  Sea,  p.  M. 


r 


408 


NATLKAL  IIISTOIIY. 


the  journey  up  tlie  Saskatcliawan  it  was  traced  to  the 
Neepewan, — a  distance  of  ;iO(>  miles, — where  it  is  either 
succeeiled  or  covered  hy  cHtt's  of  calcareous  clay.  It  is 
prohahle  that  the  lini(>stone  formation  not  only  extends 
over  a  vast  portion  of  the  ])lains,  hut  also  runs  parallel  to 
the  Ilocky  Mountains  as  far  as  ^Mackenzie  liiver.  Be- 
tween it  and  tlie  Rocky  .Mountains,  rocks  of  the  coal  for- 
mation occur  ;  and  heds  of  hurniu};  coal  have  heen  known 
for  many  years  on  the  upper  parts  of  the  Saskatchawan, 
as  well  as  on  the  last-named  river.  One  of  the  most 
marked  characteristics  of  the  limestone  formation  is  the 
entire  exclusion  of  foreign  heds.  It  was  never  oljserved 
in  association  with  any  other  rock,  except,  perha])s,  on 
Klk  Iliver,  where  it  appeared  in  contact  with  com|)act 
earthy  marl  and  slag<:;y  mineral-pitch,  or  hituminous 
sandstone ;  and  on  Cojjpermine  Kiver,  where  rolled  fraj^- 
ments  of  a  similar  stone  were  found  connected  with  layers 
of  dark  flinty  slate.  Salt  springs  and  lakes  exist  from 
twelve  to  twenty  miles  to  the  northward  of  Carlton  House. 

In  Athabasca  Lake  Sir  .lohn  Franklin's  party  came 
again  u])on  the  edge  of  the  primitive  formation.  Fort 
C'hipewyan  seemed  to  stand  uj)on  a  granite  rock,  and 
a  little  to  the  eastward  a  reddish  granite  is  associated  with 
gray  gneiss.  Granite  is  the  most  abundant  rock  on  Slave 
Kiver ;  but  it  tlisappcars  about  a  mile  and  a  half  below 
the  Portage  des  Noyes,  and  the  banks  from  thence  to 
Slave  Lake  are  alluvial.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Yellow 
Knife  River,  and  in  Lake  Prosperous,  mica-slate  pre- 
vailed ;  and  between  Rocky  and  Carp  Lakes  the  granite 
contains  many  beds  of  mica-slate,  often  passing  into  clay- 
slate.  Here  the  country  is  tolerably  wootled,  and  white 
spruce  occupy  the  rocky  situations,  Pinus  Banksiana  the 
sandy  spots,  and  aspen  the  low  moist  places.* 

At  Carp  Lake  the  hills  are  of  lower  altitude,  the  valleys 
are  less  fertile  and  ha"e  fewer  trees,  and  these  features 
seem  to  characterize  the  commencement  of  the  gneiss 
formation,  which  extends  over  the  great  district  to  the 
eastwartl  of  the  Coppermine  River,  termed  by  the  Indians 
the  Barren  Grounds.  The  soil  is  inimical  to  almost 
every  s])ecies  of  vegetation.  The  summits  of  the  bills 
about  Fort  Enterprise  are  composed  of  a  durable  red 


*  Appendix  to  Franklin's  First  Journey  to  the  Shores  of  the 
Polar  Sea,  p.  520. 


m^ 


mm^mmm 


traced  to  the 
re  it  is  eitlier 
iS  clay.     It  is 
;  only  extends 
ms  parallel  to 
I  Uiver.     Be- 
f  the  coal  Ibr- 
*e  been  known 
•saskatchawan, 
>  of  the  most 
mation  is  the 
iever  observed 
;,  perhaps,  on 
with  compact 
)r   bituminous 
!re  rolled  t'rag- 
ted  with  layers 
ces  exist  from 
Carlton  House, 
's  party  came 
mation.     Fort 
nite  rock,  and 
[issociated  with 
rock  on  Slave 
I  a  half  below 
rom  thence  to 
f  the  Yellow 
lica- slate  pre- 
es  the  granite 
ising  into  clay- 
ed, and  white 
Jjanksiana  the 
s.* 

(le,  the  valleys 
these  features 
of  the  gneiss 
istrict  to  the 
by  the  ImUans 
cal  to  almost 
ts  of  the  hills 
a  durable  red 


OEOLOGY. 


to?) 


Shores  of  tin- 


granite,  and  large  masses  of  kav  same  substance  are  scat- 
tered over  their  surface.  On  an  arm  of  Point  Lake, 
forty-five  miles  due  north  of  Fort  Knterprisi",  iht'  rocks 
belong  to  the  transition  class.  The  ligiit  blue  coloured 
waters  of  (ireat  Hear  F^ake  are  very  transparent,  more 
especially  in  the  vicinity  of  the  primitive  mountains  of 
M'Tavish  Jiay.  A  piece  of  white  rag,  wiien  sunk,  did 
not  disa|)pear  till  it  had  descended  to  the  depth  of  tiftcvn 
fathoms.  'I'iie  surface  of  Hear  Lake  is  not  supposed 
to  be  200  feet  above  the  Arctic  Sea,  and  as  its  (lei»th  is 
much  greater  than  that  amount  of  feet,  its  bottom  nmst 
consecjuently  be  below  the  level  of  the  sea.*  At  tiie 
mouth  of  Dease's  River,  the  hills  are  five  or  six  hundred 
feet  high,  and  are  composed  princij)ally,  if  not  entirely, 
of  dolomite,  in  horizontal  strata.  The  northern  shores 
of  Bear  Lake  are  low,  and  skirted  by  tmmerous  shoals  of 
limestone  boulders.  At  the  foot  of  the  Scented  Crrass 
Hill,  a  rivulet  has  made  a  section  to  the  «lepth  of  100  feet, 
and  there  shaly  beds  are  seen  interstratilied  with  thin 
layers  of  blackish-brown  earthy-looking  limestone,  con- 
taining selenite  and  pyrites.  CJlobular  concretions  of  that 
stone,  and  of  a  poor  clay  ironstone,  also  occur  in  beds  in  the 
shale.  The  surfaces  of  the  slate-clay  were  covered  by  an 
efflorescence  of  alum  and  sulphur,  and  many  crystals  of 
sulphate  of  iron  lie  at  the  bottom  of  the  cliff,  and  several 
layers  of  plumose  alum,  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  occur 
in  the  strata.  At  the  base  of  Cireat  Bear  Mountain,  the 
bituminous  shale  is  interstratiHed  with  slate-clay,  and  Dr 
Richardson  found  embcilded  in  the  former  a  single  piece 
of  brown  coal,  in  which  the  fibrous  structure  of  wood  is 
ap})arent.t 

On  the  northern  shore  of  Keith  Bay,  about  four  miles 
from  Jiear  Lake  River,  stands  Fort  Franklin,  upon  a  small 
terrace,  which  is  elevated  about  thirty  feet  above  .ne  lake. 
The  bottom  of  the  bay;  wherever  distinguishable,  was  ob- 
served to  be  sandy,  and  thickly  strewed  with  rounded  j)ri- 
mitive  boulders  of  great  size,  which  were  particularly  abun- 
dant near  the  river, — and  the  waters  of  the  cape  formed 
by  Scented  Grass  Hill  were  also  strewed  with  large  s(juare 

*  In  M'Tavish  Bay,  near  the  sliore  of  Great  Slave  Lake,  forty- 
live  fathoms  of  line  did  not  reacli  the  hottom.  Some  of  the  great 
lakes  of  Canada  are  sn[)posed  to  descend  300  feet  below  the 
"  (K-ean's  brim." 

•f"  Apjxjodix  to  Franklin's  Second  Journey,  p.  fJ. 


'!E*r~"~- 


ilO 


NATI  HAL  IIISTOIIV. 


blocks  of  limestone.  All  these  boulders  must  have  been 
carried  from  the  parent  roeks  by  a  current  flowing  from 
Uie  east.  'I'wo  varieties  of  granite  which  occur  amonfr 
them,  were  recognised  as  forming  abundant  rocks  at  l"'ort 
Knterj)rise,  which  lies  about  17(»  miles  south-east  from 
M'Tavish  Bay.  The  soil  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Franklin 
is  sandy  or  gravelly,  and  covers  to  the  (lepth  of  one  or 
two  feet  a  bed  of  clay  of  unknown  thickness.  This  clav 
continues  tirndy  fro/en  during  the  greater  portion  of  the 
year,  and  the  thaw  seldom  penetrates  more  than  a  couple 
of  feet  into  the  surface  of  the  earth. 

Hear  Lake  River  is  about  seventy  miles  long,  from  its 
origin  in  the  lake  till  it  falls  into  the  Mackenzie,  and  its 
breadth  is  never  less  than  l.>()  yards,  except  at  the  rajiid. 
Sections  made  by  the  river  generally  present  sand  or  clay, 
— the  former  probably  proceeding  from  the  disintegration  of 
.1  friable  gray  sandstone,  which  occasionally  shows  itself 
in  the  more  solid  form,     'i'he  walls  of  the  rapid  are  about 


tliree  miles  long,  and  I'iO  feet  high.     Thev 


're  composed 
isist  of  an 


of  horizontal   beds,  the  lower   of  whid 

earthy-looking  stone,  intermediate  betwee tC-clay  and 

sandstone,  having  interiorly  a  dull  yellowish-gray  colour. 
These  beds  are  se})arated  by  thin  slaty  layers,  of  a  sub- 
stance similar  in  appearance,  but  harder,  which  contain 
impressions  of  ferns,  and  from  the  debris  at  the  bottom  of 
the  clilt'  J)r  Richardson  gathered  impressions  of  the 
!)ark  of  a  tree  (Icpidodendron)  and  some  annnonites  in  a 
brown  iron-shot  sr.ndstone.  These  are  regarded  by  M; 
Sowerby  as  of  a  ni:w  species.  They  contain  sulphati 
of  barytes,  and  are  supposed  to  be  referable  to  some  of 
tlie  oolites  near  the  Oxford  clay. 

We  may  here  notice  the  remarkable  lignite  formation 
of  Mackenzie  River.  Flie  formation  wbicli  constitutes 
its  banks  consists  of  wood-coal  in  various  states,  alternat- 
ing with  beds  of  pipe-clay,  potter's  clay  (occasionally  bi- 
tuminous), slate-clay,  gravel,  sand,  and  friable  sandstones, 
and  occasionally  with  porcelain-earth.  These  strata  arc 
usually  horizontal,  and  as  many  as  four  beds  of  hgnite 
ai-e  exposed  in  some  places,  of  which  the  upper  are  above 
the  highest  river  floods  of  present  times.  The  lignite 
itself  is  pretty  compact  when  recently  detached;  but  it 
soon  sj)hts  into  rhomboidal  pieces,  separable  into  more  or 
less  dehcate  slaty  portions.  When  burnt,  it  produces 
little  smoke  or  flame,  and  leaves  a  brownish-red  residuum, 


oF:oLnr,Y. 


411 


st  have  bccti 
Howing  from 
occur  umon;: 
rocks  at  Fort 
ith-east  from 
Fort  Franklin 
)th  of  one  or 
s.  This  c'lay 
portion  of  the 
than  a  coui)le 

lonp;,  from  its 
;cnzie,  and  its 
t  at  the  rdpid- 
it  sand  or  ehiy, 
isintegrationof 
ly  shows  itself 
■apid  are  ahout 
,  M-e  composed 
Asist  of  an 

.tC'-elay  and 

sh-}j;ray  colour. 
/ers,  of  a  sub- 
whieli  contain 
t  the  bottom  of 
lessions  of  the 
immonites  in  a 
.'{yarded  by  Mi" 
mtain  sulphate 
,ble  to  some  of 

Irnite  formation 
nch  constitutes 
states,  alternat- 
(ccasionally  bi- 
Lble  sandstones. 
Ihese  strata  are 
Ibeds  of  lignite 
ipper  arc  above 
The  lignite 
jtached;  but  it 
lie  into  more  or 
L   it  produces 
1-red  residuum. 


not  one-tenth  of  the  original  bulk.  IJut  the  smell  is  very 
fetid,  resembhng  that  of  phosphorus.  It  was  found  unfit 
for  welding  iron  when  used  alone,  but  it  sutiited  when 
mixe<i  with  ehareojil.  However,  the  smell  was  still  most 
annoying.  A  fre(pient  form  of  this  lignite  is  that  of  slate, 
of  a  dull  brownish-black  colour,  with  a  shining  st.    ik. 

Tiiese  remarkable  beds  seem  to  take  fire  spontaneously 
when  exposed  to  the  action  ot  the  air.  They  were  found 
burning  by  Sir  Alexander  .Mackenzie,  when  he  passed 
downwards  in  17S<),  and  are  supposed  to  have  been  on 
fire  ever  since.  Large  slips  of  the  banks  take  place  in 
eonsecpienee  of  the  destruction  of  the  coal,  and  it  is  only 
when  the  debris  has  been  washed  away  by  the  river  that 
good  sections  become  visible.  "  'I'he  beds  were  on  fire 
when  we  visited  them  ;  and  the  burnt  clay,  vitrified  sand, 
agglutinated  gravel,  »S:c.  gave  many  spots  the  api)earanc<? 
of  an  old  brick-field."* 

The  pipe-clay  is  also  sufficiently  ingiUar  to  deserve  a 
special  notice.  It  occurs  in  beds  from  six  inches  to  a 
foot  in  thickness,  and  chiefiy  in  contact  with  the  lignite. 
Its  colour  is  yellowish-white  ;  in  some  places,  however, 
it  is  light  lake-red.  It  is  used  by  the  natives  as  an  article 
of  food  in  times  of  scarcity,  and  is  said  to  be  ea])able  of 
sustaining  life  for  a  considerable  time.  It  is  known  to 
the  traders  under  the  name  of  white  mud.  They  wash 
their  houses  with  it. 

The  alluvial  islands  at  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie 
separate  the  various  branches  of  that  great  river.  These 
islands  are  either  ])artially  or  entirely  Hooded  in  the  sprii>g; 
tlieir  centres  are  depressed,  and  are  either  marshy  or  oc- 
cupied by  a  lake.  Their  borders,  however,  are  more  ele- 
vated, and  are  well  clothed  by  white  spruce-trees.  These, 
and  whatever  other  trees  are  produced  in  the  islands, 
suddenly  cease  to  grow  about  latitude  (iS"^  K)'. 

The  famous  Copper  Mountains,  so  called,  consist  prin- 
cipally of  trap  rocks,  which  seemed  to  I)r  Richardson 
to  be  imposed  upon  the  new  red  sandstone,  or  the  ficptz 
limestone  which  covers  it.  They  rise  to  a  height  of  eight 
or  nine  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  and  pre- 
sent a  softish  outline  at  a  dist^mce  ;  but  on  a  nearer  view 
they  seem  composed  of  ridges,  many  of  which  have  pre- 
cipitous  sides.      The  summits   are   stony  and   uneven. 

•  Ibid.  p.  lU. 


412 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


The  largest  pieces  of  copper  are  found  associated  with 
prehnite,  and  the  Indians  are  careful  to  search  for  ore 
wherever  they  observe  ]neccs  of  the  last-named  mineral 
lying  on  the  surface.  The  original  repository  or  vein  of 
copper  ore  does  not  appear  to  have  been  hitherto  observed  ; 
but  judging  from  specimens  picked  up  by  our  overland 
expeditions,  it  most  probably  traverses  felspathose  trap. 
Ice-chisels  have  been  observed  in  the  possession  of  the 
Esquimaux  measuring  twelve  or  fourteen  inches  long, 
and  half  an  inch  in  diameter,  formed  of  pure  co^)per. 

Another  range  of  trap  hills  occurs  at  the  distance  of 
ten  miles  to  the  northward  of  the  Copper*  I\Iountains. 
This  range  is  about  twenty  miles  from  the  Arctic  Sea, 
and  beyond  it  the  country  is  very  level,  with  a  subsoil 
of  light  brownish-red  sandstone.  These  desolate  plain^ 
nourish  only  a  coarse  short  grass,  and  the  trees  whicl 
had  previously  dwindled  to  scraggy  clumps  entirely  dis- 
appear. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Co])permine  River  there  occurs  a 
low  ridge  of  greenstone ;  and  from  thence  to  Bloody  Fall, 
which  is  a  distance  of  about  ten  miles,  the  country  is  very 
level,  with  the  exception  of  some  ridges  of  trap,  by  wliich 
it  is  traversed.  The  channel  of  the  river  is  sunk  nearly 
150  feet  below  the  level  of  the  surrounding  country,  and 
is  bounded  by  cliffs  of  yellowish-white  sand,  and  some- 
times of  clay,  beneath  which  beils  of  greenstone  occasion- 
ally crop  out. 

The  islands  in  this  quarter  of  the  Arctic  Sea  are  in- 
variably rocky.  They  present  a  remarkable  uniformity 
of  j.^.'pearance,  and  are  very  generally  bounded  by  mural 
precipices  of  trap-rock  clinkstone  or  claystone.  liut  the 
main  shore  prc^^ents  a  greater  diversity.  For  sixty  miles 
eastward  of  Coppermine  River,  the  beach  is  low  and 
gravelly,  but  towards  Tree  River  the  trap  rocks  reappear 
and  form  a  steril  and  rocky  coast.  At  Port  Epworth 
the  valleys  were  stony,  and  almost  entirely  destitute  of 
herbage.  The  rocks  observed  were  liver-brown  clinkstone 
porphyry,  with  a  few  beds  of  earthy  greenstone,  and  the 
same  formation  extends  to  the  mouth  of  Wentzel's  River, 
to  the  eastward  of  wdiich  a  projection  of  the  coast  fonns 
Cape  liarrow.  When  Dr  Richardson  rounded  this  cape 
the  weather  was  extremely  foggy,  but  the  rocks  examined 
consisted  of  a  beautiful  admixture  of  red  and  gray  granite, 
forming  steep  and  craggy  peaks  which  rose  abruptly  from 


GEOLOGY. 


413 


jociated  with 
earch  for  ore 
imed  mineral 
)ry  or  vein  of 
;rto  observed ; 
our  overland 
s})athose  trap, 
session  of  the 
inches  long, 
re  co^iper. 
he  distance  of 
?r  Ivlountains. 
16  Arctic  Sea, 
vith  a  subsoil 
desolate  plain- 
le  trees  whicl 
is  entirely  dis- 

there  occurs  a 
to  Bloody  Fall, 
country  is  very 
trap,  by  which 
is  sunk  nearly 
g  country,  and 
"d,  and  some- 
Istone  occasion- 

>tic  Sea  are  in- 
ible  uniformity 
inded  by  mural 
[tone.     But  the 
^r  sixty  miles 
Ich  is  low   and 
rocks  reappear 
l^ort  F.p worth 
i\y  destitute  of 
•own  clinkstone 
istone,  and  the 
entzel's  Biver. 
the  coast  forms 
Inded  this  cape 
■ocks  examined 
id  gray  granite, 
abruptly  from 


the  water  to  the  height  of  I.j(K)  feet.  At  Detention  Har- 
bour the  granite  hills  terminate  abruptly,  or  recede  from 
the  coast,  giving  place  to  less  elevated  strata  of  gneiss,  in 
which  beds  of  red  granite  are  enclosed.  A  vein  of  galena 
was  observed  running  through  the  gneiss  for  two  hun- 
dred yards  at  the  spot  named  in  consequence  Cralena 
Point.*  A  mass  of  indurated  iron-shot  slaty  clay  occurs 
on  the  western  point  of  Moore's  Bay,  and  the  promontory 
which  forms  the  eastern  side  of  that  bay  is  com})Osed  of 
trap  rocks  and  claystone  porphyry,  whose  mural  precipi- 
ces constitute  the  sides  of  narrow  valleys,  opening  at  either 
end  towanis  the  sea.  An  iron-shot  cHnkstone  {)orphyry, 
with  a  columnar  aspect,  prevails  from  Moore's  Bay  to  the 
entrance  of  Arctic  Sound.  The  eastern  shore  of  that 
sound  is  covered  with  grass,  and  scarcely  exhibits  any 
naked  rock  ;  but  the  clinkstone  porphyry  reappears  on 
Bankes'  Peninsula,  along  with  an  earthy-looking  green- 
stone, and  forms  as  usual  parallel  ranges  of  mural  precipice. 
On  Barry's  Island  the  trap  rocks  form  cliffs  from  60  to  lliO 
feet  high,  superimposed  on  thick  beds  of  indurated  clay 
or  marl.  A  red  amygdaloidal  rock,  containing  beautiful 
pebbles  of  carnelian,  chalcedony,  and  embedded  jaspers, 
was  observed  on  the  north  side  of  the  island. 

Trap  rocks,  for  the  most  part  greenstone,  and  sand- 
stone of  the  new  red  formation,  characterize  Sir  James 
Gordon's  Bay ;  but  to  the  north  of  Fowler's  Bay  the 
gneiss  rea])pears,  with  beds  of  granite  and  hornblende 
gneiss.  Hexagonal  crystals  of  hornblende,  above  a  foot 
long,  were  observed  embedded  in  the  gneiss  near  Point 
Evritt,  and  the  islands  in  the  offing  consisted  as  usual  of 
tlcetz  traj)  or  porphyry.  Cape  Croker  is  composed  of  red 
sandstone,  of  which  the  debris  forms  a  shelving  and  ut- 
terly barren  shore.  Grayish-whit  sandstone,  associated 
with  or  passing  into  slaty  clay,  was  visible  on  the  north- 
ern shore  of  ]Melville  Sound,  wherever  the  barren  clayey 
soil  was  washetl  away.  Cliffs  of  greenstone,  or  of  clay- 
stone  porphyry,  superimposeil  on  the  flat  strata,  present- 
ed the  appearance  of  islands,  when  seen  from  the  opposite 
coast,  as  our  exploring  party  entered  the  sound,  and  had 
the  low  connecting  land  been  then  visible,  a  tedious  and 
unnecessary  circumnavigation  of  the  sound  itself  would 
have  been  saved.     The  coast  exhibited  the  same  appear- 

*  Appendix  to  Franklin's  First  Journey,  p.  531. 


414 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


ance  as  far  as  Point  Turnajrain,  the  most  eastern  point 
attained  by  the  overland  exjiechtions. 

On  a  general  view  it  ap])ears  that  the  new  red  sand, 
stone  formation  prevails  along  tliose  portions  of  the  North 
American  Arctic  shores.  "  All  the  islands  visited,"  says 
Dr  Kichardson,  "  were  formed  of  trap  or  porphyry  be- 
longing to  that  formation  ;  and,  judging  from  similarity 
of  form,  the  rocks  of  the  other  islands  belong  to  the  same 
class.  The  gneiss  formation  is  next  in  extent ;  and,  in- 
deed, it  appears  to  run  nearly  parallel  to  the  coast  within 
the  red  sandstone  from  Cape  Barrow,  across  Hood's  liiver 
above  Wilberforce  Falls  to  the  bottom  of  Bathurst's  In- 
let, and  from  thence  to  Hope's  Bay,  on  the  western  side 
of  Melville  Sound.  The  only  foreign  beds  we  observed 
in  the  gneiss  were  granite,  perhaps  (juartz-rock  and 
hornblendic  gneiss  or  syenite.  We  saw  no  clay  or  mica- 
slate,  nor  (hd  we  observe  any  formations  intermediate 
between  the  gneiss  and  new  red  sandstone ;  nor,  except 
at  Cape  Barrow,  where  granite  predominates^,  any  other 
formati'^n  than  the  two  just  mentioned.  Our  opportu- 
nities for  observation,  however,  Avcre  not  extensive ;  the 
necessity  of  proceeding  without  delay  limiting  our  botanical 
and  geognostical  excursions  to  the  short  period  that  was 
required  to  prepare  breakfast  or  supper."* 

From  Point  Turnagain  the  party  proceeded  to  Hood's 
River,  which  they  traced  to  some  distance.  Near  its 
mouth  that  river  is  from  100  to  300  yards  in  width,  and 
is  bounded  by  steep  high  banks  of  clay,  reposing  on  floetz 
rocks.  At  Wilberforce  Falls,  which  are  six  or  seven  miles 
above  the  second  rapid,  the  river  makes  a  striking  descent 
of  about  2.50  feet  into  a  chasm,  the  walls  of  which  consist 
of  light-red  felspathosesandotone,  belonging,  as  Dr  Rich- 
ardson supposes,  to  the  old  red  sandstone  formation,  or 
that  which  lies  under  coal,  and  occasionally  alternates 
with  transition  rocks.t  A  short  distance  above  these  falls 
the  gneiss  '"  rmation  appears,  and  produces  hills  precisely 
similar  to  .hose  about  Fort  Enterprise.  On  quitting 
Hood's  River  our  explorin;^  '^-^rty  ascended  from  the 
valley  through  which  it  flo^  ,  .w  d  entered  upon  an  even, 
clayey,  and  very  barren  c  i«^ri  c,  partially  covAed  by 
shallow  lakes.  This  plain  country  continued  nearly  as 
far   as   C^racroft's  River,  where  the  gneiss  reappeared. 


Apjiondix  to  Franklin's  First  Jonrney,  p.  533.       -j-  Ibid.  p.  634. 


r.KOLOGV. 


415 


astern  point 

w  red  sand- 
af  the  North 
isited,"  says 
(orphyry  be- 
im  similarity 
r  to  the  same 
nt ;  and,  in- 
coast  witliin 
Mood's  River 
athurst's  In- 
western  side 
we  observed 
rtz-rock  and 
clay  or  mica- 
intermediate 
;  nor,  except 
;es,  any  other 
Our  opportu- 
xtensive;  the 
y  our  botanical 
jriod  that  was 

led  to  Hood's 
e.      Near  its 
in  width,  and 
jsing  on  floetz 
or  seven  miles 
riking  descent 
which  consist 
;,  as  Dr  Rich- 
formation,  or 
illy  alternates 
»ove  these  falls 
hills  precisely 
On  quitting 
led  from   the 
ipon  an  even, 
V  covA'ed  by 
lied  nearly  as 
[s  reappeared, 

t  Ibid.  p.  534. 


and  presented  those  bleak  hills  and  precipices  so  charac- 
teristic of  the  Barren  (rrounds.  The  gneiss  formation 
was  observed  to  continue  without  essential  ciiange  to  Ob- 
struction Rapid,  between  Providence  and  Point  Lakes, 
where  it  united  with  the  Fort  Enterprise  tlistrict  formerly 
alluded  to. 

The  preceding  geognostical  details,  and  others  into  the 
consideration  of  which  we  cannot  here  enter,  render  it 
ap})arent  that  the  general  distribution  and  connexion  of 
the  hills  and  mountain-masses  of  these  northern  regions 
are  nearly  the  same  as  geologists  have  observed  to  chiu 
racterize  similar  materials  in  other  portions  of  the  earth. 
The  primitive  rocks  occur  in  their  usual  relations ;  and 
gneiss,  attended  by  an  extremely  scanty  vegetation,  ap- 
pears to  be  the  most  extensively  distributed,  (iranite  was 
the  next  in  frequency  ;  after  which  may  be  placed  mica- 
slate.  Clay-slate  and  protogine  were  the  least  abundant. 
The  granite  of  Cape  Barrow  was  intersected  by  veins  of 
augite  greenstone  of  the  same  descri})tion  as  those  which 
occur  in  the  granite  districts  of  (treat  Britain,  and  the  pri- 
mitive rocks  in  general  were  found  to  be  traversed  by 
veins  of  felspar,  quartz,  and  granite. 

The  transition  rocks,  consisting  principally  of  clay-slate 
and  gray wa eke,  bore  a  strong  resemblance  to  those  in 
Dumfries-shire, — a  fact  whicii  did  nut  fail  to  attract  the 
attention  of  Dr  Richardson,  himself  a  native  of  that  dis- 
trict. 

In  regard  to  the  secondary  formations,  the  facts  ob- 
served by  Dr  Richardson  show  the  existence — First,  Of 
the  old  red  sandstone,  or  that  which  lies  under  coal, 
and  occasionally  alternates  with  transition  rocks  :  Second, 
Of  the  coal  formation,  whicli  was  ascertained  to  occur  in 
certain  districts  of  Mackenzie  River,  and  towards  the 
Rocky  Mountains :  Third,  Of  the  new  red  or  variegated 
sandstone,  an  important  formation  of  considerable  extent, 
which  contained,  as  it  is  known  to  O.o  in  the  Old  World, 
p^ypsum  and  beds  of  salt,  or  of  muriatiferous  clay,  afford- 
ing saline  materials  for  the  impregnations  of  the  salt 
springs  which  issue  from  it:  Fourth,  Of  the  secondary 
limestone  belonging  to  that  vast  deposite  which  lies  above 
the  new  red  sandstone,  and  beneath  chalk,  and  which  oc- 
cupies extensive  tracts  in  Britain  and  other  parts  of  Eu- 
rope :  Fifth,  Of  the  secondary  trap  and  porphyry  rocks, 


416 


NATURAL  HISTORY. 


in  the  composition  and  character  of  which  one  of  the 
most  interesting  features  is  undouhtedly  the  frequent  oc- 
currence of  native  copper,  both  among  the  Copper  Moun- 
tains themselves,  anil  along  the  Arctic  shore. 

The  alluvial  deposites  consist,  as  usual,  of  sand,  gravel, 
rolled  blocks,  boulder-stones,  and  the  debris  of  various 
rocks.  We  may  conclude  by  observing  in  the  words  of 
Dr  Richardson,  to  whom  we  are  deeply  indebted  for  the 
information  presented  in  this  volume,  that  the  foregoing 
details  make  it  manifest  "  that  in  the  regions  we  traversed 
the  rocks  of  the  primitive,  transition,  secondary,  and  allu- 
vial classes,  have  the  same  generpl  composition,  structure, 
position,  and  distribution,  as  in  .,ther  parts  of  America 
which  have  been  examined  ;  and  as  these  agree  in  all  re- 
spects with  the  rock  formations  in  Europe  and  Asia,  they 
may  with  propriety  be  considered  as  universal  formations — 
parts  of  a  grand  and  harmonious  whole — the  production 
of  infinite  wisdom." 


"  Stand  still  and  behold  the  wondrous  works  ov 
God, — the  wondrous  works  of  him  which  is  perfect 
in  knowledge." 

"  Remember  that  thou  magnify  his  work  which  jiex 
BEHOLD.    Every  3ian  may  see  it  ;  men  may  behold  it 

AFAR  OFF." 

"  O  Lord,  how  manifold  are  thy  works  !  in  wisdo^i 

HAST  THOU  MADE  THEM  ALL  :  THE  EARTH  IS  FULL  oF  THY 
RICHES." 

"Before  the  mountains  were  brought  forth,  or 
ever  thou  hadst  formed  the  earth  and  the  world. 

even   FROM   EVERLASTING   TO   EVERLASTING,    THOU   ART 

God." 


1  one  of  the 
J  frequent  oc- 
opper  JVIoun- 

'  sand,  gravel, 
fis  of  various 
the  words  of 
lebted  for  the 
the  foregoinji 
IS  we  traversed 
lavy,  and  allu- 
ion,  Structure, 
ts  of  America 
igree  in  all  re- 
md  Asia,  they 
,1  formations — 
;he  production 


R,OUS  WORKS  OF 
JII    IS   PEUFECT 

)11K  WHICH  MEN 
lAY  BEHOLD  IT 

KS  !    IN  WISDOM 
IS  FULLOE  THY 

RHT  FORTH,  OB 

D  THE  WORLIJ. 

NG,    THOU   AK'J 


APPENDIX 


REMARKS 


ov 


A   LATE  MEMOIR  OF  SEHASTIAX  CAHOT 

WIT  It  A 

VINDICATION  OF  lUCIIAUD  HAKLl'YT. 


"  Florcat  Ilistoria  nritannic.i,  rrconlis  authcnt'icisqur  oxpromatur. 
Scribatur  leiitc,  mature,  oi(t;iiatt',  siiu-frf,  dilucidc,  siiU'  |iartiuni  studio, 
sine  piavo  consilio,  sine  oniiii  \  ill  afti't'tu  viris  liti  ratis  uuligiiu."  M  >')ip\, 
D/sccptatij  Kj)istularis  Dc  Ma^nt)  Ratido  ■Scucairii. 


Tin:  reader  is  already  aware  that  in  the  present  volume,  the 
Discovery  of  North  America,  in  the  reign  of  Henry  \T  I., 
has  been  exclusively  ascribed  to  Joim  Cabot,  a  Venetian, 
who  had  settled  as  a  mercliant  at  Bristol.  The  raithor  of 
a  late  work*  has  attributed  this  noted  extension  of  geogra- 
phical knowledge  solely  to  the  subjcci  of  his  bi()gra]:)hy,  Se- 
bastian Cabot,  the  son  of  John.  According  to  him,  it  was 
Sebastian  who  projected  the  expedition  in  which  the  disco- 
very was  made, — it  was  Sebastian  vrho  conducted  the  expe- 
dition,— it  is  doubtful  whether  John  Cabot  accompanied 
the  voyage  at  all, — and  it  is  certain,  if  he  did,  it  was  simi)ly 
as  a  merchant  who  traded  on  his  capital.  The  biogra- 
pher has  brought  forward  his  arguments  in  support  of 
this  theory,   in  the  tiftii  chapter  of  his  work,  entitled 


*  Memoir  ot"  Sebastian  Cal)(>t. 


^2c 


418 


APPKNDIX. 


Comparative  Agency  of  John  and  Sebastian  Cabot ;  and 
it  is  in  the  course  of  these  arguments  that  he  has  made 
an  attack  upon  the  integrity  and  honesty  of  Richard 
Hakluyt,  a  writer  to  whom  the  history  of  maritime  dis- 
covery is  under  the  deepest  obligations.  These  two  points, 
therefore, — the  discovery  of  North  America  and  the  credit 
due  to  tlie  evidence  of  Hakluyt, — must  necessarily  be  con- 
sidered in  conjunction  ;  and  we  trust  we  shall  convince 
every  impartial  reader  of  the  accuracy  of  our  assertion,  that 
.John  (Jabot  was  the  discoverer,  and  that  the  attack  upon 
Hakluyt  is  perfectly  unfounded. 

Before,  however,  proceeding  to  the  more  immediate  sub- 
ject of  inquiry,  we  may  be  permitted  to  say,  that,  although 
it  becomes  our  duty  to  point  out  repeated  and  material 
errors,  and  in  some  instances  considerable  injustice  com- 
mitted by  the  biographer  of  Cabot,  we  are  anxious  to  avoid 
that  peculiar  asperity  which  he  has  unnecessarily  ming- 
led with  a  subject  so  remote  that  it  may  surely  be  ap- 
proached in  a  spirit  of  great  calmness  and  impartiality. 
We  wish  to  employ  no  expression  which  may  give  a  mo- 
ment's unnecessary  pain  to  the  biographer.  His  Memoir 
of  Cabot,  as  may  be  seen  from  the  references  to  it  in  the 
course  of  this  volume,  has  been  frequently  of  use  to  us. 
Although  rather  a  piece  of  biographical  and  historical 
criticism  than  a  pure  biography,  it  is  a  meritorious  work ; 
it  points  out  to  the  reader  some  recondite  sources  of  in- 
formation,— its  deductions  and  arguments  are  often  acute 
and  ingenious, — and,  confused  and  deficient  as  it  is  in  its 
arrangement,  it  contains  occasional  passages  which  are  elo- 
(juently  written.  But  it  is  impossible  not  to  regret  that  there 
is  infused  into  the  whole  book  a  more  than  ordinary  proper, 
tion  of  that  bitter  and  querulous  spirit  which,  in  a  greater 
or  less  degree,  seems  inseparable  from  the  lucubrations  of 
theantiquary, — that  the  author  has  poured  abuse,  contempt, 
and  ridicule  upon  those  who  have  fallen  into  errors,  which 
be  sometimes  has,  and  at  other  times  imagines  he  has  detect- 
ed,— and  that  he  is  unscrupulous  in  imputing  unfair  and 
ungenerous  motives  to  those  who  little  deserve  such  an  ac 
cusation.  Robertson,  Forster,  Henry,  Campbell,  Southey, 
Barrow,  and  other  able  writers,  are  attacked  in  unmea- 
sured terms,  as  the  arch  propagators  of  all  that  is  errone- 
ous  and  superficial  on  the  subject  of  maritime  discovery ; 
and  our  excellent  friend  Richard  Hakluyt,  who  has  slept  in 


VINJ)ICATI(>V  OF  IIAKLVY  r. 


119 


,  Cabot ;  and 
he  has  made 
of  Richard 
maritime  dis- 
;se  two  points, 
and  the  credit 
ssarily  be  con- 
5hall  convince 
assertion,  that 
le  attaclc  upon 

nmediate  sub- 
that,  although 
I  and  material 
injustice  com- 
nxious  to  avoid 
;essarily  ming- 
surely  be  ap- 
d  impartiaUty. 
nay  give  a  mo- 
.    His  Memoir 
ces  to  it  in  the 
y  of  use  to  us. 
and  historical 
ritorious  work ; 
!  sources  of  in- 
are  often  acute 
nt  as  it  is  in  its 
;s  which  are  elo- 
■egret  that  there 
irdinarypropor- 
Ich,  in  a  greater 
lucubrations  of 
[buse,  contempt, 
;o  errors,  which 
jeshehasdetect- 
jting  unfair  and 
Tve  such  an  ac- 
pbell,  Southey, 
:ed  in  unmea- 
that  is  errone- 
ime  discovery ; 
who  has  slept  in 


an  honoured  grave  for  upwards  of  two  centuries,  is  resusci- 
tated to  be  treated  only  with  more  unsparing  severity.  We 
proceed  now  to  the  discussion  of  the  ])oint  in  (juestion, — 
Who  Discovered  North  America  ? — The  tact,  then,  tiiat 
it  was  John  (^abot  who  projected,  fitted  out,  and  con- 
ducted the  expedition  by  which  this  discovery  was  made 
rests  on  evidence  so  conclusive,  that  it  is  difficult  to  ima- 
gine how  any  impartial  inquirer  can  resist  its  force. 

lurst,  There  is  the  original  commission  or  letters-pa- 
tent in  Rymer,  vol.  xii.  p.  oOS,  in  which  John  Cabot  is 
evidently  the  principal  person  intrusted  with  the  under- 
taking. His  three  sons,  Lewis,  Sebastian,  and  Sanchez,  are 
indeed  included  with  him  in  the  patent ;  but  it  is  allowed 
on  all  hands,  that  neither  Lewis  nor  Sanchez  accompa- 
nied the  voyage,  and  Sebastian,  although  he  undoubtedly 
went  along  with  his  father,  could  not  then  have  been 
more  than  twenty, — an  age  excluding  the  idea  of  his  either 
originating  or  conducting  the  enterprise. 

Secondly,  We  have  the  language  of  the  second  patent, 
dated  the  8d  February  14-98,  in  which  the  letters  are  di- 
rected to  John  Cabot  alone,  and  he  is  empowered  to  sail 
with  his  ships  to  the  land  and  isles  of  late  found  bij  the 
mid  John,  in  the  king's  name  and  commandment, — a 
piece  of  evidence  which,  even  if  it  stood  single  and  un- 
supported, appears  to  be  decisive  of  the  question. 

Thirdli/,  We  have  the  inscription  under  the  contem- 
porary portrait  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  painted  by  Holbein, 
in  which  he  is  described  as  the  son  of  the  Venetian,  Sir 
John  Cabot,  who  was  the  first  discoverer  of  the  New 
Land,  "  Primi  Inventoris  Terra?  Novae  sub  Henrico  VI L 
Vngliffi  Rege  ;"  and  in  the 

Fourth  place,  A  proof  of  the  same  fact  is  to  be  found 
in  the  inscription  by  Clement  Adams  upon  the  Map  of 
America,  which  he  engraved  after  a  drawing  of  Sebastian 
Cabot's,  and  in  the  lifetime  of  this  navigator.  In  this 
inscription,  as  already  more  minutely  pointed  out,*  the 
principal  place  is  given  to  the  father,  John  Cabot,  and 
the  son  is  mentioned,  as  it  appears  to  us,  not  as  command- 
ing the  ships  or  having  originated  the  voyage,  but  simply 
as  accompanying  the  expethtion. 
Having  gone  thus  far,  we  are  now  ready  to  enter  upon 


*  Supra,  pp.  21,  22. 


Vli) 


APPT:\ni\'. 


tlieinvcslipation  of  tlie.iifriiinonts urged  ))y  tlicbiogrnplur 
in  f'aNour  of  tlie  claim  wiiicli  lie  has  set  uj)  i'or  Sebastian  as 
tliesolc discoverer  ;  and  here  we  nuiy  remark,  that  in  the 
classification  of  his  e\i(!ence  he  has  followed  a  method 
which  is  certainly  n(!t  th.e  hest  calculated  for  the  manifesta. 
tion  of  truth.  lie  first  arranges  what  he  denominates  tin- 
proofs  in  su|)})ort  of  the  father;  hut  those  which  he  enu- 
merates fu'.sf,  arid  which  alone  lie  discusses  with  minute 
attention,  are  the  weakest  that  could  he  selected,  and  sue!) 
as  no  one  who  carefully  weighs  them  would  place  much 
reliance  on  ;  whilst  the  unanswerable  evidence  is  brought 
in  last  Avilh  extreme  }>revity^  and  dismissed  with  scarce 
any  observation. 

"  The  various  items  of  evidence,"  says  he,  "  Avhich  arc 
suj.posed  to  establish  the  ])re\ ailing  personal  agency  of 
John  ("abot,  may  be  ranked  thus: — 

"  1.  'J'he  alleged  statement  of  Robert  Fabyan. 

"  y.  'IMie  language  of  more  recent  writers  as  to  the 
character  of  the  father. 

"  3.  The  appearance  of  his  name  in  the  map  cut  bv 
Clement  Adams,  and  also  in  the  patents. 

"  As  to  the  first,"  he  continues,  "  the  authority  usually 
referred  to  is  found  in  llakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  9, — 'A  note 
of  Seliastian  Cabot's  first  discoverie  of  ])art  of  the  Indies, 
taken  out  of  the  latter  part  of  Roliert  Fal>yan's  Chronicle. 
v.ot  hitherto  ]n-inted,  which  is  in  the  cust(;(lie  of  M.  John 
Stow,  a  diligent  })reserver  of  anti(iuities.  In  tlie  1.'^ 
yeere  of  K.  Henry  the  7  (by  mcanes  of  one  John  Ca- 
bot, a  \'enetian,  which  made  himselfe  very  expert  and 
ciinning  in  the  knowledge  of  the  circuit  of  the  world,  and 
islands  of  the  same,  as  by  a  sea-card  and  other  demoii- 
stratioi;s  reasonable  he  shewed),  tlie  kinu;  caused  to  man 
and  victual!  a  ship  at  ]5ristovv,  to  search  for  an  island 
which  he  said  he  knew  well  was  rich,  and  rejdenished 
with  great  commodities  ;  which  shippc,  tlius  manned  and 
victiialletl,  at  the  king's  costs,  divers  merchants  of  London 
vcnti;red  in  her  small  stocks,  being  in  her,  as  chief  patron, 
the  said  Venetian.  And  in  the  company  of  the  said  ship, 
sailed  also  out  of  liristow,  three  or  foure  small  shijs,  fraught 
with  sleight  and  grosse  marchandises,  as  course  cloth,  ca))s. 
laces,  })oints,  and  other  trifles,  and  so  de])arted  from  Hrb- 
tow  in  the  beginning  of  May,  of  whom,  in  this  maior's 
time,  returned  no  titlings.'  " 


iirf*^*^-  i^<^%-»A*V-#f)!«««f^-' 


y  tlichiograpluM- 
ir,r  Sel)astian  as 
lark,  that  in  the 
l(,wc(l  a  inethcd 
)r  the  iTianif'esta. 
(Iciuniiinates  tlie 
L'  which  lie  enu- 
ses  with  miimtt' 
'k'ctcd,  and  sncli 
)iiM  place  iTUicli 
(lence  is  hrouj^lit 
ssed  witli  scarce 

,  he,  "  wliich  arc 
rsonal  a}i;ency  oi 

Fahyan. 
,'iiters  as  to  the 

the  map  cut  hy 

authority  usually 
p.  }), — '  A  note 

irt  of  the  Indies, 
yan's  Chronicle, 
die  of  ]M.  John 
In  the  U 
one  Jolm  Ca- 
,ery  expert  ar.d 
'  the  world,  and 
1  otlier  demon- 
caui-ed  to  man 
1  for  an  island 
ar.d  re})lenished 
uis  manned  and 
lants  of  London 
as  chief  ]nitrcn, 
of  the  said  ship, 
all  shij'S,  fraught 
ourse  cloth,  caps, 
arted  from  Hri?- 
,  in  this  niaior'> 


VI.NDICATIO.N  OF  IIAKLl  vr. 


4'il 


This  is  the  passa;j;e  wliich  the  author  of  the  Memoir  has 
accusL'd  Ilakluyt  of  pervertiii}.:; ;  and,  instead  of  givinpj  it 
simj)ly  as  it  was  furnished  hy  Stow, — of  interpolatinjj;  the 
name  of  iJohn  (  ahot.  Nor  is  it  difiicult  to  see  how  he  was 
led  to  make  tliis  accusation.  It  was  necessary,  in  snp[)ort 
of  ids  views,  to  sliow  that  this  allej^ed  .statement  of  l''abyan 
contained  no  allusion  to  John,  hut  actually  sui)p()rted  the 
claim  of  Sjhastian  Cahot:  hut  this  could  not  he  done  if 
Ilakluyt  has  given  it  fairly;  and  in  this  way  the  biogra- 
pher, animated  with  zeal  for  his  theory,  was  imperceptibly 
drawn  on  to  attack  the  integrity  of  this  writer.  Now,  he- 
fore  considering  so  grave  an  accusation  against  Ilakluyt, 
we  have  one  introductory  remark  t;)  make  upon  this  (pio- 
tation  from  Fabyaii.  It  is  certain  that  it  alludes  to  the 
second  voy;\ge  made  to  North  America  hy  Si-bastian 
(■abot,  in  the  year  1  WH,  and  not  to  the  first,  in  which 
that  coii.itry  was  discovered.  Of  this  the  passage  con- 
tains int.'rnal  evidence  which  is  perfectly  conclusive. 
The  first  ^'>yage  took  place  in  the  twelfth  year  of  Henry 
\II.  Tliis  in  the  thirteenth.  The  first  voyage  was  at 
the  sole  exiiense  of  the  adventurers.  Of  this  the  king 
bore  the  expense.  The  first  voyage  could  allude  to  no 
former  discovery.  This  alludes  to  an  island  wliich  had 
l)een  already  discovered.  To  (piote  the  passage,  there- 
fore, as  evidence  in  favour  of  John  ('al)ot's  ihscovery, 
which  has  certainly  been  done  hy  some  modern  writers, 
argues  a  rajiid  and  superficial  examination  of  its  contents, 
('ertainly  Ilakluyt  tloes  not  cite  it  with  this  view;  hut 
includes  it,  on  the  contrary,  amongst  diose  portions  of 
evidence,  those  testimonies,  as  he  calls  them,  in  which 
the  sole  glory  of  the  earliest  voyage  to  North  America  is 
given  to  Sebastian  Cahot.*  Ad  this  may  be  true,  says 
the  memorialist,  but  it  does  not  exculpate  Ilakluyt.  I  do 
not  accuse  him  of  citing  the  passage  as  a  i)roof  in  favour 
of  John  Cabot — hut  of  altering  it  so  as  to  mislead  other 
authors:  He  has  "  perverted"  the  passage,  and  has  suf- 
fered the  evidence  of  his  "  guilty  ileetl"  to  lie  about,  so 
tis  to  furnisii  the  means  of  his  own  conviction.  Such 
is  the  charge  advanced  against  Ilakluyt ;  and  never, 
we  will  venture  to  say,  was  there  a  more  unfounded  ac- 
cusation^ as  will  appear  when  it  comes  to  be  examined,  and 


Hakluyt's  Vi)ya^esj  edition  KJUO,  vol.  iii.  j).  4 — \),  inclusive. 


i2y 


APPK.NDIX. 


yet  the  ara:iiiTicnt  of  the  })io}j:rapher  is  ingenious,  and  it 
requires  some  attention  to  detect  its  fallacy. 

The  object  in  the  whole  matter,  it  will  he  ohservcd, 
was  twofold ;  first,  to  show  that  Robert  Fabyan,  a  conteni. 
porary  autlior,  ascribes  the  <liscovery  of  North  Amerira 
to  Sebastian,  and  not  to  John  ('abot ;  and,  secondly,  Ui 
prove  that  Ilakluyt  has  been  guilty  of  dishonestly  per. 
verting  tiie  passage  from  Fabyan  communicated  to  hiii; 
])y  Stow  the  anti(juary.  IIow  then  does  lie  accom])lisli 
this?  In  the  first  place,  he  goes  to  the  earliest  work  ot 
Ilakluyt,  published  in  1.jK2,  where  this  writer  give.*  for 
the  first  time  the  following  note  as  to  the  discovery, 
which  we  quote  verbatim  from  the  work  itself,  now  lyinj; 
on  our  table : — 

"  A  Note  of  Skuastian  Gabotk's  Voyage  of  Disco verit, 
taken  out  of  an  okl  C  hronicle  written  by  llotJi'.ui 
Fauian,  some  time  Alderman  of  London,  which  is  in 
the  custodie  of  John  Srovv,  citizen,  a  diligent  searcher 
and  preserver  of  antiquities. 

Tins  yeere  the  king  (by  means  of  a  Venetian 
which  made  himselfe  very  expert  and  cunning 
in  knowledge  of  the  circuite  of  the  worlde,  and 
islands  of  the  same,  as  by  a  carde  and  other 
demonstrations  reasonable  bee  shewed)  caused  to  man 
and  victuall  a  shippe  at  Bristowe,  to  searche  for  an  ilande, 
whiche  hee  saide  bee  knewe  well  was  riclie,  and  replenish- 
ed with  riche  commodities.  Which  ship,  thus  manned 
and  victualled  at  the  kinges  costs,  divers  merchants  of  Lon. 
don  ventured  in  her  small  stockes,  being  in  her,  as  cheife 
patrone,  the  said  Venetian,  and  in  the  companie  of  the 
said  shippe,  sayled  also  out  of  Bristowe  three 
or  foure  small  ships  fraught  with  sleight  and 
grosse  merchandizes,  as  course  cloth,  caps,  laces,  points, 
vvm.  Pur.  ai^tl  other  trifles,  and  so  departed  from  Bristowe 
ciias,  Maior  in  the  beginning  of  May,  of  whom,  in  tliis 
Maior's  time,  returned  no  tidings." 


Ill  the  1.3 
yeare   of 
King  Ilenric 
the  VII. 
1498. 


f)f  London . 


Having  given  this  quotation  from  Ilakluyt's  publication 
of  1582,  the  writer  of  the  life  next  turns  to  the  larger 
work  of  the  same  author,  published  in  1589,  and  he 
discovers  that  he  has  added  to  the  sentence,  as  it  stood 
in  1582,  the  words  "  one  John  Cabot."     The  passage 


-j^mtimkmmmm  HillitiiiliDii: 


ngenious,  and 

cy. 

v'ill  he  observed. 

ibyan,  a  conteni. 
North  Ainerie,! 

nd,  secondly,  t(i 

(Ushonestly  per. 

lunicated  to  him 

s  lie  accoinplisli 

earliest  work  of 

writer  give.5  for 

the   discovery. 

itself,  now  lyinji 

^e  of  Discoverie, 
ten  hy  U(ti;i;iii 
don,  wiiich  is  in 
diligent  searcher 

IS  of  a  Venetian 
)ert  and  cunninji 
the  worlde,  and 
carde  and  other 
caused  to  man 
le  for  an  ilande, 
e,  and  replenish- 
thus  manned 
^rchants  of  Lon- 
in  her,  as  cheife 
onipanie  of  the 
liristowe  three 
ith  sleight  and 
s,  laces,  points, 
1  from  Bristowe 
whom,  in  this 

ly  t's  publication 
s  to  the  larger 
1589,  and  lie 
nee,  as  it  stood 
The  passage 


Vl.VniCATIOV  OF  IIAKLrVT. 


423 


in  the  narrative  of  l.>H9  standing  thus  : — "  In  the  1.3  yeerr 
of  King  Ilenrie  the  \  11.  hy  means  of  one  John  Cubot. 
A  Venetian,  which  made  himself  very  expert,"  c'^'c,  the 
rest  of  the  sentence  being  the    same  as  in    I.jS'J.     Here 
then,  says  he,  is  manifest  inter])olation  and  dishonesty  ; 
the  original    passage    from    Fabyan   has   been   altered  ; 
Ilakluyt,  in  1.>H9,  does  not  give  it  in  the  same  terms 
as  in   l.)H2.     Before,  however  arriving  at  so  strong  and 
uncharitable  a  conclusion,  it  nmst   strike   every  reader 
that  the  original  passage,  either  as  it  stands  in  Fabyan, 
or  as  it  stood  in  the  extract  furnished  by  Stow  from  Fa- 
byan, ought  to  be  carefully  examined.     Till  the  passage, 
as  it  is  given  by  Hakluyt,  is  conij)ared  with  one  or  other 
of  these,  it  is  [jcrfectly  evident  that  no  charge  of  alteration 
or  interpolation  can  be  made  good  against  him.     Now, 
the  original  chronicle  of  Fabyan,  from  which  Stow  took 
the  passage,  is  lost — and  the  biographer  does  not  pretend 
that  he  has  discovt  red  in  the  manuscripts  of  Ilakinyt 
the  original  passage,  as  extracted  by  Stow,  and  sent  to 
this  writer — but  he  endeavours  to  supply  it  in  a  very 
singular  manner.     In  speaking  of  Ilakluyt's  alleged  per- 
version of  the  passage,  as  sent  by  Stow,  he  observes : — 
"  Fortunately,  we  are  not  left  to  mere  conjecture.      In 
1()0.5  appeared  Stow's  own  '  Annals.'      The  simplicity 
and  good  faith  of  this  writer  are  so  well  known,  as  well 
as  his  intense  reverence  for  whatever  bore  the  stamp  of 
antiquity,  that  we  have  no  fear  of  his  having  committed 
what  in  his  eyes  would  have  been  sacrilege,  by  changing 
one  syllable  of  the  original.     Let  it  be  remembered  then, 
that  Hakluyt  rehes  exclusively  on  what  he  obtained  from 
Stow ;  and  in  reading  the  following  passage  from  the  An- 
nals, we  tind  what  doubtless  passed  into  Hakluyt's  hands 
before  it  was  submitted  to  his  perilous  correction.     It 
occurs  at  p.  HOt  of  the  edition  of  ICOo,  and  at  p.  481i 
of  that  of  1631.     *  This  year  one  Sebastian  (Jahoto,  a 
Genoa's  sonne  borne  in  Bristol,  professing  himself  to  be 
expert  in  the  knowledge  of  the  circuit  of  the  world,  and 
islands  of  the  same,  as  by  his  charts  and  other  reasonable 
demonstrations  he  shewed,  caused  the  king  to  man  and 
victual  a  ship,'  ike.     The  rest  corresponds  with  the  pas- 
sage in  Hakluyt.    *     «     *    Thus,"  continues  the  biogra- 
pher, "  we  have  the  best  evidence  that  the  contemporary 
writer,  whoever  he  may  have  been,  made  not  the  slightest 


Ui 


APPKiNDIX. 


allusion  to  tlie  father.  Hacoii,  Speed,  'riumuus,  t*\:c'.,  id! 
furnish  the  same  stateineiit."* 

Sueh  is  the  passage  from  the  Memoir  of  Cahot ;  and  thus 
it  apj)ears  that  the  whole  of  this  attaek  u[)()ii  llakluyt 
rests  upon  a  faet  which  the  l)io};rapher  iina}i;ines  he  has 
j)rove(l,  hut  which  in  truth  is  nothing  else  tiian  a  piece  of 
the  merest  and  the  most  vague  ])resumption — namely,  that 
Stow  furnished  ilaklnyt,  in  l.iH'i,  with  an  extract  from 
Fahyan,  which,  when  he  himself  proceeded,  alxnit  eighteen 
years  after,  to  compile  his  Annals  from  a  long  list  of  writers, 
wiiose  names  he  has  given  us  in  his  ])refatory  pages,  he 
so  scru|)idously  cojjied,  that  we  are  entitled  to  take  it  as  it 
stands  in  the  said  Annals,  and  argue  upon  it  as  the  identi- 
cal passage  contained  in  the  lost  chronicle  of  Fahyan. 

liut  this  is  not  merely  gratuitous  assumption.  There  is, 
we  think,  strong  evidence  to  show  that  Stow,  in  compo- 
sing his  various  works,  did  not,  u|)on  the  point  in  (juestion, 
— the  (hscovery  of  America, — consult  the  jnanuscri[)t  of 
Fahyan,  altliough  lie  affirms  it  to  he  in  Jiis  ])ossession,  hut 
in  the  multiplicity  vi'  his  authorities  Jiad  overlooked  it 
altogether.  'I'he  first  Sunnnary  of  Chronicles  was  puh- 
lished  hy  tl\is  industrious  antiquary  in  l.Sdj.  A  new 
edition  was  give:  iv  l.iT.'i,  and  again  another  edition  in 
1.598.  His  excellent  work  entitled  ,i  Survey  of  liondon 
a,i\C  AW'stminster  was  also  puhlished  ii)  loJJS  ;  and  it  is  a 
remarkable  -i  -cunistance,  and  one  which  militates  strongly 
against  the  hv^othesis  of  the  biographer,  that  although 
in  the  I'^t  of  i) is  auLhe;\ties  prefixed  to  the  edition  of  his 
Chronicles  in  l.iT.'J,  and  to  the  Survey  of  London,  there 
is  express  mention  of  the  manuscript  hy  Fahyan,  still,  in 
neither  of  these  works  is  there  any  allusion  made,  which 
we  can  discover,  to  the  voyages  of  the  ( 'abots,  or  the  dis- 
covery of  America.  His  work  entitled  Flores  Historiarum, 
or  Annals  of  England,  was  published  in  IGOO,  and  here, 
for  the  tirst  time,  is  the  passage  rej:,ar(l.'ng  the  voyage  to 
America  introduced  ;  in  Avhich,  as  we  have  already  seen, 
Sebastian  Cahot  is  called  "  a  Gc'oa's  .y  u."  But  it 
is  to  be  recollected  that  Robert  Fahyan  was  a  contem- 
porary of  Sebastian  Cabol;  that  he  was  a  rich  merchant 
and  alderman  of  London;  and  the  probability  is,  that 
he  was  either  j)erscnally  acquainted  with  so  Illustrious 


.^lenioir  of  (libotj  p.  14. 


•^-in 


.1li.r««»*. 


lUiUlUS,  ^-c,  illl 

'ahot ;  and  thus 
ui)()ii  llakluyt 
iia<i;inc's  he  has 
tliaii  a  piece  of 
— namely,  that 
II  extract  from 
,  al)()uteit;iiteen 
fji;  list  of  writers, 
itory  pa<2;es,  he 
I  to  take  it  as  it 
t  as  the  ideiiti- 
of  Fai)yan. 
;ion.  Tijere  is, 
o\v,  ill  compo- 
lint  in  (piestion, 
manusc'ri[)t  of 
})ossession,  hut 
I  overlooked  it 
licles  was  pub- 
lo()ii.  A  new 
ther  edition  in 
vey  of  liondon 
{)S  ;  and  it  is  a 
litates  strongly 
that  although 
edition  of  his 
^ondon,  there 
)yan,  still,  in 
made,  which 
ts,  or  the  (Us- 
llistoriarum, 
00,  and  here, 
the  voyage  to 
already  seen, 
u."  But  it 
as  d  contem- 
•ich  merchant 
)ility  is,  that 
so  illustrious 


^■I^I»I(•.\ HON  or  iiakf,!  \r. 


V2:» 


I) 


:i  navigator,  or  at  least  enjoyed  the  best  opportunities  of 
rendering  himself  master  of  his  iiistory.  1 1  appears  to  us, 
therefore,  exceedingly  improhahle  that  Fahyan  should 
have  lallen  into  the  error  of  describing  Sebastian  ( 'abot  as 
a  iienoese's  son,  instead  of  the  son  of  a  Venetian.  Now, 
it  is  a  singular  circumstance,  that  in  the  Chronicle  of 
Thomas  LaiKjuette,  a  work  which  Stow  also  meutions  Jis 
in  his  possession,  Sebastian  is  describeil  as  the  son  of  a 
(ienoese,  and  the  discoverer  of  a  part  of  the  N\'est  Indies," 
a:id  this  induces  us  to  conjecture  that  tile  passage  in  (pies- 
lion  was  taken  by  Stow,  not  Irom  Fabyan'sChroincle,  but 
from  that  work.  Down  to  l.i<>s,  he  does  not  api)ear  to 
havee.xamined  Fabyan's  treatise  u[)()n  the  subject  of  Ame- 
rica, or  Cabot;  and  becoming  old  (^he  was  now  in  Ins 
seventy-sixth  year),  and  failing  in  his  memory,  it  appears 
extremely  j)rol)able  tliat  he  had  contented  himself  with  a 
reference  to  the  volume  of  l^aiupiette. 

So  far,  therefore,  from  admitting  the  fact  which  has 
been  hastily,  and  without  any  su^Hcieiit  ground,  assumed 
by  the  biogra[)lier,  that  the  passage  in  Stow's  AnnaLs 
regarding  Sebastian  Caliot  may  be  co.isidered  the  very 
extract  from  Fahyan  communicated  to  ilakluyt,  we  con- 
tend that  a  minute  examination  of  Stow's  historical  labours 
proves  that,  in  composing  his  Annals,  he  had  omitted  to 
considt  the  Chronicle  of  Fahyan,  and  had  copied  some 
less  authentic  writer — probably  the  Ciironicle  of  Lan- 
ijuette.  \\'hat  follows  from  this? — First,  the  whole 
elaborate  accusation  of  guilty  pervers" on  of  the  extract 
from  Fahyan,  so  unceremoniously  advaiiced  against  llak- 
luyt, falls  completely  to  the  ground.  Sjconclly,  the  bio- 
grapher's .su])j)06Cfl  passage  from  Fahyan,  a  contemi)orary, 
turns  out  to  be  nothing  more  than  aciui'tation  from  Stow, 
and  consequently,  the  assertion  that  tlie  former  has  de- 
scribed Sebastian  Cabot  as  the  sole  projector  and  executor 
of  the  voyage  in  which  North  America  was  discovered,  is 
perfectly  unwarrantable.  The  original  inanuscript  of  Fah- 
yan, as  we  have  already  stated,  is  lost ;  t'le  origiiial  extract 
from  it  furnished  by  Stow  to  llakluyt  is  also  lost;  and 
without  a  minute  examination  of  these  two  documents, 


*  Barrett's  Bristol,  pp.  li{."»,  IJIi.  I  take  it  for  ^nantcd  that  this 
uulhor  imist  have  seen  the  passage  whitli  lie  (piotes  ;  hut  la  tiie  only 
e;iition  of  LaiKjiiette's  Chroiiieh'  which  I  have  luul  an  opportunity  of 
examining  tiiere  is  no  such  jjassai^^e. 


426 


APPENDIX. 


the  biographer  was  not  entitled  to  wound  the  fair  reputa- 
tion of  this  excellent  writer,  1  •  whom  the  history  of  naval 
discovery  is  under  so  many  chl'^jations,  by  charges  without 
proof,  and  innuendoes  arising  mainly  out  of  the  errors 
which  he  himself  has  committed. 

But  the  biographer  will  perhaps  contend  that  he  has 
at  least  made  out  one  fact  against  Hakluyt — namely^ 
that  in  15H<)  he  alteied  the  passage  from  the  form  in 
which  he  gave  it  in  1582;  an(l  is  not  this,  says  he^  a  dis- 
honest and  guilty  deed  ?  To  this  we  answer, — and  we 
think  it  impossible  for  him  to  controvert  the  assertion, — 
that,  admitting  the  fact,  there  is  no  gu'.lt  or  dishonesty  in 
the  case.  The  vitiation  of  the  text  imputed  here  to  Ilak- 
luyt  may  be  considered  either  as  a  perversio)i  of  the  real 
truth,  historically  considered,  or  of  the  individual  passage, 
or  of  both. 

First  then,  it  is  to  be  remarked,  that  Ilakluyt  cannot 
be  accused  of  dishonesty  historically  speaking,  because, 
in  the  passages  in  question,  he  has  stated  nothing  but  the 
truth.  It  has  been  already  provetl  that  the  extract  com- 
municated by  Stow  relates  solely  to  the  second  voyage 
of  1 198,  planned  and  fitted  out  by  John  (  abot  the  Vene- 
tian,  and  conducted  afterwards  by  his  son  Sebastian  ;  and 
the  alteration  of  the  note,  from  the  words  "  a  Vene- 
tian," used  in  1.582,  to  the  words,  "  one  John  Cabot,  a 
Venetian,"  used  in  1.58!),  only  makes  it  speak  with  more 
clearness  and  accuracy.  But,  in  the  second  place,  Hak- 
luyt, says  the  biographer,  has  perverted  and  altered  a 
quotation.  There  might  be  some  appearance  of  plausi- 
bility in  this  accusation,  if  Hakluyt  had  given  the  pas- 
sage in  dispute  as  a  quotation,  and  had  thus  bound  him- 
self down  to  the  common  usage  which  compels  an  authoi 
in  such  a  case  to  insert  it  word  for  word.  But  he  does 
hot  do  so.  He  warns  the  reader  that  he  is  perusing  not  a 
quotation,  but  a  "  note  made  up  by  him  from  an  extract 
communicated  by  Stow,  and  taken  out  of  the  latter  part  of 
Robert  Fabyan's  Chronicle,  not  hitherto  printed ;"  and  hav- 
ing done  so,  he  considered  himself  at  liberty  to  correct  that 
note,  by  inserting  in  it  any  additional  information  which 
he  had  accpiired.  In  1.58'2,  he  thought  that  the  words,  "  a 
Genoa's  son,  born  in  Bristol,"  could  not  apply  to  Sebastian 
Cabot,  with  whom  they  v'ere  coupled,  and  he  inserts  the 
words,  "  a  \'enetian,"  dvopping  the  name  altogether,     in 


pip 


»ip"ipw"!ipiii«np 


the  fair  reputa- 
liistory  of  naval 
charges  without 
it  of  the  errors 

'11(1  that  he  has 
kluyt— namely, 
ini  the  form  in 
,  says  he,  a  (Hs- 
nswer, — and  we 
the  assertion, — 
or  dishonesty  in 
:ed  here  to  Ilak- 
^sion  of  the  real 
lividual  passage, 

Ilakluyt  cannot 
eaking,  hecause. 
nothing  but  the 
he  extract  com- 
i  second  voyage 
Cabot  the  Vene- 
1  Sebastian  ;  and 
vords  "  a  Vene- 
3  John  Cabot,  a 
speak  with  more 
ond  place,  Hak- 
1  and  altered  a 
ranee  of  plausi- 
|l  given  the  pas- 
luis  bound  him- 
nipels  an  author 
I.     But  he  does 
s  perusing  not  a 
from  an  extract 
the  latter  part  of 
ted;"andhav- 
;y  to  correct  that 
brmation  which 
|at  the  words,  "  a 
ply  to  Sebastian 
lid  he  inserts  the 
altogetiier.     In 


VINDICATION  OF  HAKLl'VT. 


427 


l.jftf),  he  had  probably  become  acquainted  with  the  second 
patent,  which  ascribed  the  plai;  ot  ti.e  expedition  solely  to 
John  Cabot ;  and  he,  therefore,  added  to  his  note  the  words, 
"  .Fohn  Cabot,  a  Venetian,"  where  he  sj^c'aks  of  the  person 
who  had  caused  the  king  to  man  and  victual  a  ship.  Even, 
therefore,  if  we  were  to  admit,  which  we  do  not,  that 
a  discre])ancy  had  y)een  made  out  between  the  passages 
in  Hakluyt  and  the  real  extract  from  the  Ciironiele  of 
Robert  Fabyan,  we  sh(,uld  be  entitled  to  repel  any  accu- 
sations against  his  honesty,  founded  upon  a  basis  so  ex- 
tremely erroneous. 

'I'he  memorialist  now  comes  to  the  consideration  of  the 
proof  as  to  the  "^  personal  agency  of  the  father  in  the  dis- 
covery of  North  America,  derived  from  the  inscription  on 
the  map  cut  by  Clement  Adams,  which  Ilak'uyt  states  is 
to  be  seen  in  her  Majesty's  Privy  (iallery  at  \Vestminster, 
and  in  many  other  ancient  merchants'  houses."*  And  here 
he  commences  his  examination  by  another  unfair  innuendo 
against  this  writer.  "  We  approach  the  statement  of 
Hakluyt,"  says  he,  "  with  a  conviction  that  he  would  not 
Iiesitate  for  a  moment  to  interpolate  the  name  of  John 
Cabot,  if  he  thought  that  thereby  was  secured  a  better 
correspondence  with  the  original  patent."  I  have  con- 
victed him  (it  is  thus  he  argues)  of  interpolating  the 
quotation  furnished  by  Stow  from  Fabyan,  and  there  is  a 
strong  presum))tion  he  would  not  hesitate  to  alter  the  in- 
scription also.  "  It  would,  certainly,"  he  remarks.  "  require 
less  audacity  to  associate  here  the  name  of  the  father,  as 
it  is  found  in  the  patent,  than  to  do  that  of  which  Hak- 
luyt has  already  been  convicted."t  To  this  indirect  insi- 
nuation it  may  be  calmly  replied,  that,  as  the  iirst  at- 
tempt to  affix  guilt  upon  Hakluyt  has  been  shown  to  be  a 
total  failure,  the  inscription  ought  to  be  received  from  his 
hands  with  perfect  confidence  that  we  read  it  in  his  work 
exactly  as  it  was  copied  by  him  from  the  original  map  of 
Sebastian  Cabot,  cut  by  ( 'lement  Adams.  From  the  man- 
ner in  which  it  is  given,  first  in  the  original  Latin,  and 
then  translated,  it  professes  to  be  an  exact  quotation ;  and 
even  were  Hakluyt  as  guilty  a  person  as  the  biographer 
represents  him,  it  might  be  contended  that  he  would  have 
paused  before  he  committed  an  act  of  interpolation,  of 

*  See  the  proof  stated.     Supra,  p.  21. 
■j-  Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  48. 


1,^S 


APPENDIX. 


which  tlie  orij;inal  in  the  Queen's  (iallery,  and  in  many 
ancient  merchants'  houses^  must  have  instantly  convicted 
liim. 

liut  to  ])roceed.  Ilavinp;  thus  prepared  us  to  expect  an 
audacious  akeration,  the  hio^rapiier  endeavours  to  show 
that  those  persons  wlio  had  seen  Sei)astian  (■al)()t's  charts 
and  maps,  introcUice  no  allusion  to  tlie  father,  and  he 
leaves  the  reader  to  make  the  inevitahle  inference  ap;ainst 
Ilakiuyt'slionesty.  This  writer  has  (juoted  an  inscription 
on  Sel)astian  Cahot's  map,  which  attrihutes  the  discovery 
to  ,l()hn  ('al)()t.  liLt  Sir  Humphrey  (Jilhert,  who  had 
seen  Sel)astian's  charts,  makes  no  allusion  to  the  father ; 
and  Richard  W'illes,  who  speaks  familiarly  of  the  map 
of  this  naviuator,  does  not  mention  .John ;  therefore, 
it  is  left  to  the  reader  silently  to  infer  that  Ilakluyt 
may  have  interpolated  the  name  of  the  father.  A  plain 
statement  of  tlie  fact  will  put  all  this  down  in  an  instant: 
— Ilakluyt  has  narrated  in  the  clearest  terms  that  tlie  map 
to  which  he  alludes,  and  from  which  he  copies  tlie  inscrip- 
tion, was  enii;ra\ed  hy  Clement  Adams;  and  the  lerniS  of 
the  inscription  show  that  it  (the  inscri[)tion)  v.r.s  added 
by  the  artist.  Sir  Humphrey  (iili)ert,  on  the  contrary, 
just  as  clearly  states,  that  the  documents  to  whidi  he  alludes, 
are  "charts  of  Sebastian  Cabot,  wliich  are  to  be  seen  in 
tlie  Queen  Majesty's  Privy  (iallery  at  A\'hitehall," — evi- 
dently meanint^  the  original  charts  drawn  by  this  sea- 
man, and  presented  to  the  queen;*  and  ^\'ilies  does  not 
mention  the  engraveil  ma[)  at  all,  but  s})eaks  of  a  table 
of  Sebastian  Cabot,  which  the  father  of  Lady  Warwick 
liad  at  Cheynies.t  The  argument,  therefore,  or  rather 
the  unfavourable  inference  created  in  the  mind  of  the 
reader  by  the  biogra[)her,  which  derives  its  force  from 
t'.ie  supposition,  that  Sir  Humphrey  Cilbert  and  llichard 
W'illes  refer  to  the  same  document  as  Hakluyt,  namely, 
the  engraved  map  by  ('lenient  Adams,  falls  completely  to 
the  ground.  Jf  there  had  been  any  account  of  the  lirst 
discovery  on  the  charts  alluded  to  by  (iilliert,  and  the 
''  table"  menti')ned  by  W'iiies,  and  in  this  account  the 
father's  name  had  not  appeared,  there  might  be  some 
presumption  against  the  elder  Cabot ;  but  the  writer  of 

*   Hakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  1(>. 

-|-    llistoiv  (if  Tia\c'l  in  the   West  and  luist    Indirs,  \u  2\VL 
Ilakluyt,  vi)l.  iii.  pp.  ^-J,  2t». 


VINDICATION  OF  HAKMYT, 


■V29 


ami  in  many 
itly  convicted 

s  to  expect  an 
ours  to  show 
Liibot's  ch;\rts 
ithcr,  and  lie 
erence  ap;ainst 
an  inscription 
the  discovery 
ert,  who  hatl 
to  the  father ; 
y  of  the  map 
n  ;    therefore, 
that  llakluyt 
her.      A  plain 
in  an  instant : 
s  that  the  map 
es  the  inscri})- 
il  the  ternis  of 
n)  v/as  added 
the  contrary, 
lich/u' alludes, 
to  be  seen  in 
tehall,"' — evi- 
lly this  sea- 
lies  does  not 
-:s  of  a  table 
ady  Warwick 
ore,  or  rather 
mind  of  the 
ts  force  from 
and  Itichard 
uyt,  namely, 
ct)!npletely  to 
t  of  the  lirst 
)ert,  and   the 
account  the 
lit  be  some 
tlie  writer  of 


^p;i 


Indies,  i>.  2^-. 


the  Memoir  does  not  pretend  there  was  any  sucli  account 
or  inscription  on  the  charts  and  the  table  ;  and  to  infer, 
from  the  silence  of  (iilbert  and  W'illes,  either  that  llakluyt 
had  altered  the  inscription,  or  that  .fohn  Cabot  could  not 
have  been  t!ie  oriL:;inal  discoverer,  is  a  reniarkaijle  instance 
of  va<i;ue  and  inconclusive  reason! nj;. 

This  ir  the  j)roper  place  to  notice  an  extraoi-dinary 
error,  or  rather  series  of  errors,  fallen  into  by  the  bic- 
p;rapher,  repu'din^j^  this  same  "  extract."  It  is  described 
by  llakluyt  as  an  "  extract  taken  out  of  the  map  of 
Sebastian  Cabot,  cut  by  Clement  Adams,  concerning 
his  discovery  of  the  ^\'est  Indies,  which  is  to  be  seen 
in  her  Majestie's  Privy  (lallery  at  A\'estminster,  and  in 
many  other  ancient  merchants'  houses."  Clearer  words, 
one  would  think,  could  scarcely  be  emjtloyed  to  ex- 
press the  fact  tiKit  a  map  engraved  by  Adams  hung  in 
the  Privy  (iallery  at  Westminster,  from  which  llakluyt, 
who  was  much  about  court,  copied  the  extract  or  iuscrip- 
tion  which  he  has  given  at  j).  <>.  \'et  the  biogra})her  has 
committed  the  singuhu-  blunder  of  sun])osiug  that  it  was 
the  cxtrdct  from  the  map,  and  not  the  ina[)  itself,  which 
was  hungup  in  the  Privy  (rallery  at  ^\'estminster,  and 
that  it  may  be  inferred  that  llakluyt  had  never  seen  the 
eriginal  ina[).  "  From  the  stress,"  says  he,  "  laid  by  llak- 
luyt and  Purchas  on  tha  rxtnict  Iiidh/  up  in  the  Privy 
(iallery  at  A\'hitehall,  we  may  infer  that  they  had  never 
seen  the  original  maj)."*  In  this  sentence  there  occurs  ;i 
second  error,  in  imagining  that  both  llakluyt  and  Pur- 
chas refer  to  the  same  document.  The  allusion  by  Pur- 
chas,t  however,  is  to  e  ■  totally  diilerent.  This  author 
refers  not  to  any  extract  taken  from  the  maj)  cut  by  Cle- 
ment Adams,  but  to  "  the  words  of  a  great  rnaj)  in  his 
Majesty's  Privy  (lallery,  of  which  S^-bastian  Cabot  isoften 
therein  called  the  author,  and  his  ])ictin-e  is  therein  drawn," 
wOiich  iiiap,  Purchas  adds  in  the  margin,  "  some  say 
was  taken  out  of  Sir  Sebastian  Cabot's  map  by  Clement 
Adams;"  a  rentence  pro\ing,  beyond  a  doubt,  tliat  these 
writers  allude  to  different  works, — llakluyt  to  the  map 
of  Clement  Adams,  Purchas  to  a  later  one,  suj)posed  by 
some  auiliors  to  be  coj)ied  from  it.  Lastly,  in  a  succeed- 
ing sentence,;};  the  author  of  the  Memoir,  when  he  ha- 


MtM'.ioir  of  C'ahut,  j).  .'•'_!.  i-   I'ur('liti.s,  vol.  ill. 

i:  Moinoir  (if  Cabot,  [i.  .»2. 


i).  n(i7. 


430 


APPKNniX. 


zards  the  conjecture  that  the  map  hy  Adams  was  exe- 
cuted after  ('abot's  death,  and  thfrefore  without  any  com- 
munication from  liim,  again  widely  errs  from  the  trutli; 
for  had  lie  consulted  Purchas  he  would  have  found  that 
tlie  map  hy  Adams  was  puhlished  in  1.5i9.*  Thus,  in  a 
sentence  which  occupies  the  short  space  of  seven  lines, 
tliree  errors,  and  these  of  no  trivial  importance,  are  com- 
mitted. The  first  error  is  material ;  because  it  inevitably 
leads  the  reader  to  believe  that  Ilakluyt  is  only  giving  an 
extract  from  an  extract,  whereas  he  is  giving  an  extract 
from  an  original  which  he  had  seen.  The  second  error 
is  also  important ;  because  it  would  induce  us  to  infer  that 
l*urchas  and  Ilakluyt  resolve  into  one  and  the  same  wit- 
ness, whereas  Purchas  quotes  a  separate  and  additional 
testimony  ;  for,  it  is  to  be  observed,  that,  on  a  map  en- 
graved probably  some  time  in  the  reign  of  James  VI., 
there  was  copied  the  same  inscription  as  in  the  early  map 
in  1.549  ;  from  which  we  are  entitled  to  conclude  that,  in 
the  interval,  nothing  had  transpired  to  invalidate  the  truth 
of  the  inscription.  Lastly,  the  third  error  is  most  mate- 
rial of  all,  because  its  effect  is  to  lead  us  to  consider  the 
Laiin  inscription  copied  by  Ilakluyt  from  the  map  by  Cle- 
ment Adams  as  of  little  or  no  weight  in  evidence,  instead 
of  which  it  is,  as  has  already  been  shown  in  the  text,t  as 
nearly  as  possible  efjuivalent  to  a  declaration  of  Sebastian 
Cabot  himself. 

'i'he  laboured  endeavour  to  get  rid  of  the  overpower- 
ing evidence  of  the  inscription,  by  impeaching  the  accu- 
racy and  integrity  of  the  copy  furnished  by  Hakluyt,  is  thus 
singularly  unsuccessful ;  and  having  failed  in  this  point, 
the  author  of  the  Life  of  ( "abot  passes  over  altogether  the 
proof  which  it  contains.  This,  we  think,  may  be  taken 
for  a  silent  admission  that,  if  correctly  given,  it  proves 
that  John  Cabot  was  the  discoverer  ;  and  we  shall  not  fa- 
tigue the  reader  by  a  re})etition  of  the  arguments  given  in 
the  text,  only  reminding  him  that  it  is  there  shown  that 
the  inscription  was  written,  probably  from  the  informa- 
tion communicated,  either  by  Sebastian,  or  by  some  per- 
sons who  accompanied  the  voyage,  and  that  the  map  wliere 
it  occurs  must  have  been  often  seen  by  this  navigator. 

In  his  examination  of  the  proofs  of  the  personal  agency 


Purchas,  vol.  iii.  p.  b*U7. 


-|-  Supra,  p.  23. 


•WffSprTTWP' 


ms  was  exe- 
out  any  com- 
m  the  truth ; 
e  found  that 
Thus,  in  a 
seven  Hues, 
ice,  are  com- 
;  it  inevitably 
Illy  giving  an 
iig  an  extract 
second  error 
s  to  infer  that 
he  same  wit- 
id  additional 
:)n  a  map  en- 
James  VI., 
the  early  map 
:lude  that,  in 
late  the  truth 
s  most  mate- 
)  consider  the 
L'  map  by  Cle- 
lence,  instead 
the  text,t  as 
of  Sebastian 

overpower- 
ig  the  accu- 

luyt,  is  thus 

in  this  point, 

together  the 

nay  be  taken 

n,  it  proves 

shall  not  fa- 

'Hts  given  in 

3  shown  that 

le  informa- 

)y  some  per- 

e  map  where 

avigator. 

onal  agency 


VINDICATION  OF  IIAKLUYT, 


Ul 


\,  p. 


23. 


of  iTohn  (y'abot,  the  biographer  now  arrives  at  the  appear- 
ance of  his  name  in  the  letters-patent  granted  by  the  king. 
These  interesting  documents,  from  their  priority  of  dato 
and  the  importance  of  their  evidence,  every  impartial 
inquirer  would,  we  think,  have  ranked  first ;  but  he  at  once 
tissigns  them  the  last  place,  and  passes  them  very  liglitly 
over.  With  the  substance  of  these  royal  letters  the  reader 
is  already  acquainted  ;*  and  it  is  here  sufficient  to  re- 
peat that  the  commission,  in  virtue  of  which  the  first  voy- 
age of  11-97  was  undertaken,  during  which  North  Ame- 
rica was  discovered,  is  granted  to  John  Cabot  and  his  three 
sons,  whilst  the  second  commission  of  Ii9S  is  not  only 
grantetl  to  .fohn  Cabot  alone,  but,  alluding  to  the  voyage 
already  made,  describes  him  as  the  sole  discoverer, 
"  giving  him  permission  to  lead  his  ships  to  the  land  and 
> files  of  late,  foiuid  hi/  the  -said  John  in  the  king's  name, 
and  by  his  command."  To  esca})e  from  this  clear  and 
unanswerable  assertion  in  a  document  whose  authenti- 
city is  higher  than  that  of  any  other  which  can  be  pro- 
duced, the  memorialist,  trembling  for  his  favourite  Sebas- 
tian, is  driven  to  some  very  desperate  and  amusing  expe- 
dients. He  first  asserts,  that  the  appearance  of  the  father's 
name  in  the  first  commission  or  patent  does  not  prove 
tliat  he  embarked  in  either  of  the  expeditions.  Xow, 
undoubtedly,  if  the  first  patent  stood  alone,  the  father's 
name  in  that  deed  would  not  conclusively  prove  that 
he  conducted  the  first  voyage,  although  a  strong  pre- 
sumption that  he  did  so  might  fairly  be  founded  upon  it ; 
but  it  is  evident  the  two  patents,  in  estimating  the  evi- 
dence, must  be  taken  together,  and  how  does  the  biogra- 
pher get  rid  of  the  second,  which,  in  language  neither  to 
be  evaded  nor  misunderstood,  distinctly  asserts  the  fact 
of  the  discovery  by  the  said  John,  and  by  John  only  ;  for 
no  other  name  but  that  of  the  father  appears  in  the  deed  .'* 
The  extraordinary  theory  by  which  he  attempts  to  elude 
its  evidence  will  best  be  given  in  his  own  words.  "  The 
second  patent,"  says  he,  "  is  to  the  father  alone.  If  we 
seek  a  reason  for  this  departure  from  the  original  arrange- 
ment, it  may  be  conjectured  that  some  of  the  sons  chose 
to  give  a  different  direction  to  a  parental  atlvance  and  their 
personal  exertions ;  and  that  the  head  of  the  family 
tliought  fit  to  retain  subject  to  his  own  discretionary  dis- 

*  Supra,  pp.  20,  24. 
2 


132 


APPENDIX. 


pcsal  the  proposed  investment  of  liis  remaining  capital. 
It  is  said  tiiat  one  of"  the  sons  settled  at  \'eniee  and  the 
otlier  at  (Jenoa.  The  recital  of  tlie  discovery  hy  the  fa- 
ther woidd,  of  course,  ])e  stated, under  the  circnn^stances,  as 
the  consideration  of  the  second  patent  in  his  favour.  An- 
other reason  for  the  intnxhiction  of  the  father's  name  con- 
currently at  first  with  his  sons',  and  afterwards  exclusive- 
ly,  may  perlia])s  he  found  in  the  wary  character  of  the  king, 
wliose  own  ])ecuniary  interests  were  involved  in  the  result. 
lie  might  he  anxious  thus  to  secure  the  responsihility  of 
the  wealthy  \'enetian  for  the  faithful  execution  of  the 
terms  of  the  patent,  and  finally  think  it  hotter  to  liave  him 
solely  nanu'd  rather  than  commit  powers,  on  their  face  as> 
signahle,  to  young  men  Avho  had  no  stake  in  the  country, 
and  who  were  not  likely  to  make  it  even  a  fixed  })!ace  of 
residence.  ( )n  the  whole,  there  may  at  least  he  a  douht 
whether  the  father  really  accom])anied  the  expedition."* 
It  is  surely  fjuite  inuiecessary  to  attemj)t  a  serious  reply 
to  this  singular  passage,  which,  advancing  IVc  ni  one  step 
of  an  imi)ro[)ahle  and  unsu])ported  hypothesis  to  another, 
lands  tlie  reader  at  last  ir  that  conclusion  of  outrageous 
scepticism  which  lias  just  been  quoted.  The  words  of  the 
second  conunission  state  a  simjde  fact,  '"  tluit  the  Itiml 
and  i.sh's  ircre  discovered  hi/Jo/ni  C  '(thot."  'Vhc  hiogra})her, 
in  rei)ly,  first  talks  discursively  and  at  some  length  on 
the  motives  which  induced  the  sons,  Lewis,  Sanchez, 
and  Sebastian,  to  withdraw  a  capital,  which  tliere  is  no 
proof  they  ever  advanced, — subjects  of  little  m(;ment, — and 
he  then  at  once  irets  rid  of  the  stubl)orn  fact,  that  .folni 
(  abot  is  named  as  the  "  sole  discoverer,"  l)y  the  inciden- 
tal remark,  that  this  would,  of  course,  be  stated  as  the 
ground  of  the  second  patent, — a  species  of  reply  which  ir- 
resistibly reminds  us  of  the  celebrated  mode  (;f  getMng  rid 
of  any  difHculty  "  by  a  concatenation."  M'c  leave  the 
reader  to  form  Ids  own  conclusion  from  tlie  words  of  the 
commission,  witii  no  anxiety  as  to  the  result. 

It  is  asserted  that  Ilakluytis  gvilty  of  perversion  when 
he  describes  John  Cabot  as  '"  very  expert  and  cunning  in 
tkie  knowledge  of  the  circuit  of  the  world,  and  islands  of 
the  same,  as  by  a  sea-card,  and  other  demonstrations  rea- 
sonable, he  sliewed;"'!'  and  in.  the  same  breath  the  bio- 
graj)her  proceeds  to  arraign  Campbell,  Macpherson,  and 


Memoir  dI' Cabot,  \).  00. 


•f  Ilukliivt,  vol.  iii.  J).  J>. 


jj,^ga#i»: 


fm-mrAKi  ■'.# 


aiiiing  capital, 
'c'liice  and  the 
ei  y  by  the  fa- 
rciiiiistances,  as 
s  favour.    An- 
ler's  name  coii- 
ards  exc'hisive- 
■ter  of  tlie  kiiifr, 
'd  in  the  result, 
sponsihility  of 
c  cut  ion  of  the 
ter  to  have  him 
m  their  face  as. 
in  tlie  country, 
L  fixed  place  of 
,'ast  he  a  doubt 
i  expedition."* 
a  serious  reply 
i;  from  one  step 
esis  to  another, 
1  of  outrageous 
he  words  of  the 
\' fliitf  the  laud 
he  biograj)her, 
me  leni'th  on 
lewis,   Sanchez, 
ich  tliere  is  no 
m{;ment, — and 
fact,  that  .fohn 
)y  the  inciden- 
stated  as  the 
reply  which  ir- 
(;f  getting  rid 
^\'e  leave  the 
words  of  the 
It. 

>rversion  when 
md  cunning  in 
and  islands  of 
nstrations  rea- 
reath  the  bio- 
cidierson,  and 

t,  vol.  iii.  {).  9. 


VINDKATION  OF  HAKLlYT. 


433 


Barrow  of  folly,  because  they  speak  of  him  as  a  scientific 
and  able  seaman,  there  being  no  j)roof  that  he  was  any 
thing  else  than  a  merchant  wiio  dwelt  in  England.* 
Now  when  JIakluyt,  in  a  writing  of  unquestionable 
authenticity, — the  first  royal  commission  just  (juoted, — 
found  John  Cabot  intrusted  with  theconnnand  of  a  s(jua- 
droii  of  five  shi|)s,  v.hich  was  em])owered  to  sail  on  a 
voyage  of  discovery  to  all  countries  and  seas  of  the  Kast, 
AVest,  and  Xortl^  lie  certainly  cannot  be  accused  of  hav- 
ing connnitted  any  grievous  infringement  upon  truth 
or  probability  when  he  described  him  as  a  seaman  ;  and 
when,  in  anotherdocument  of  almost  ecjual  authority, — the 
inscription  on  thema})by  Clement  Adams, — he  observed  it 
stilted  that  he,  along  with  bis  son  Sebastian,  were  the  first 
who  discovered  North  America,  are  we  to  be  cold  that 
he  was  guilty  of  excessive  exaggeration,  when  he  drew 
the  inference  which  every  (Hscerning  and  impartial  mind 
would  he  inclined  to  derive  from  the  same  facts,  that  the 
author  of  such  a  discovery  must  have  been  an  excellent 
navigator  and  cosmographer  ?  Nor  is  it  a  fair  mode  of 
reasoning  to  accuse  Campbell  and  Harrow  as  guilty  of  a 
thousaiul  absurdities,  when  they  describe  John  Cabot  as 
an  "accomplished  seaman,  a  skilful  {)ilot,  or  an  intrepid 
navigator."t  These  writers,  it  is  to  be  recollected,  had 
before  them  the  letters-iiatent  in  Kymer,  and  the  inscrip- 
tion by  Adams, — instruments  which  had  in  no  way  been 
perverted, — and  from  an  examination  of  these  they  arrived 
at  the  conclusion,  to  which  every  reader  is  inevitably  led, 
that  he  who  ])0ssesse(l  the  inventive  mind  to  plan  this 
new  course  to  India  by  the  north-west, — who  had  in  per- 
son commanded  the  expedition,  and  successfully  achieved 
the  discovery, — must  have  been,  both  as  a  jiractical  and  a 
scientific  navigator,  a  man  of  no  ordinary  character  and 
acquirements. 

It  is  tlifficult,  witliin  the  limits  to  which  we  must  con- 
fine these  remarks,  to  reply  to  the  various  accusations 
against  llakluyt,  which  are  scattered  throughout  the  pages 
of  this  Memoir  ;  besides  we  do  not  profess  to  write  a  full 
vindication  of  that  excellent  author,  lie  is  arraigned  of  ig- 

*  Mcinoir  of  Cabot,  pp.  4(!.  47,  AO,  51. 
•\  Memoir  of  (."abot,  pp.  4(i,  50,  51. 

2  I) 


43i 


APFENDIX. 


norance  and  carelessness  as  a  translator, — of  a  want  of  in- 
tcjj::rity  in  refjjard  to  the  sense  of  his  orifxinal, — and  of  ap- 
propriating to  iiiniself  passatjes  from  otlicr  authors  without 
acknowledgment.  The  gravest  accusation,  that  of  wil- 
fully altering  the  sense  of  his  original,  has  heen  satis- 
factorily answered  already  ;  hut  we  venture  to  say  that 
few  who  are  acipiainted  with  his  amusing  and  instructive 
volumes  will  not  he  astonished  at  the  charge  of  ])lagiar- 
ism.  A  conscientious  and  even  tedious  scrupulosity  in  giv- 
ing the  names  of  every  individual  i'rom  whom  he  has  de- 
rived  his  ir.fi.rmation  is  one  of  the  most  striking  features 
of  his  work.  'I'he  third  volume  of  tiie  second  edition  of 
his  voyages  ha})pens  to  l)e  now  on  the  tahle  hefore  us : 
It  consists  of  ahout  loS  separate  documents,  and  we 
will  venture  to  say,  that  of  these  there  is  not  one  upon 
which  the  hiogra'pher  can  sup])()rt  a  charge  of  any  thing 
apj)roaching  to  serious  and  ))remeditated  plagiarism, — not 
one  in  which,  if  the  author's  name  is  known,  it  is  not  an- 
xiously mentioned,  cr,  if  it  is  unknown,  where  the  anony- 
mous paper  is  not  given  in  such  a  way  that  it  cannot 
possihly  lie  attrihuted  to  the  CGm{)ilcr  h.imself.  Even  the 
two  instances  in  this  volume,  quoted  against  him  by 
the  biogra})her,  do  not  in  fair  reas;oning  form  an  excep- 
tion. 

No  one  who  has  read  Uakluyt's  preface  will  he  disposed 
to  think  with  severity  of  the  sliglit  alterations  which, 
with  the  honest  intention  of  presenting  the  whole  truth 
before  his  reader,  he  has  occasionally  introduced  into 
the  abstracts,  notes,  and  translations,  which  form  the  great 
body  of  his  v/ork.  His  earnest  desire,  as  he  himself  de- 
clares, "  was  to  adjust  the  displaced  and  scattered  limbs, 
as  well  of  ancient  and  late  voyages  by  sea  as  of  travels 
by  land,  and  traffic  of  merchandise  by  both,  into  one 
regidar  body  ;  restoring  each  divided  and  dislocated  mem- 
ber to  its  natural  order  and  symmetry,  and  by  the  help 
of  geography  and  chronology^  the  sun  and  moon,  or  right 
and  left  eye  of  all  history,  referring  each  particular  nar- 
ration to  its  due  time  and  place."  That  in  accomplish- 
ing this  laudable  object  he  has  sometimes  used  rather 
undue  liberties  with  his  documents,  may  be  admitted ; 
but  even  in  the  most  remarkable  of  these  instances  of  al- 
leged mistranslation  and  interpolation  which  the  biogra- 
pher has  brought  against  liim^  the  passages  are  first  ac- 


fS-AitoWiJ-i**^^. 


VINDICATION  OK  HAKLCVT 


VM.-i 


f  a  want  of  in. 
1, — and  of  ap. 
utliors  without 

I,  that  of  wil- 
las  been  satis- 
ire  to  say  that 
md  instructive 
rsjje  of  ])la}]i;iar- 
)uh)sity  ingiv- 
oin  he  has  de- 
liking  features 
ond  edition  of 
)le  before  us  : 
lents,  and  we 

not  one  upon 
e  of  any  thing 
ajiiarism, — not 

II,  it  is  not  an- 
lere  the  anony- 
ihat  it  cannot 
elf.  I^^ven  the 
:ainst  him  by 
)rm  an  excep- 

'ill  he  disposed 
rations  which, 
le  wliole  truth 
troduced  into 
brm  tlie  great 
le  himself  de- 
attered  limbs, 
as  of  travels 
)oth^  into  one 
slocated  mem- 
id  by  the  help 
noon,  or  right 
articular  nar- 
n  accomplish- 
used  rather 
be  admitted ; 
istances  of  al- 
ii the  biogra- 
are  first  ac- 


curately given  in  the  original  language, — a  mode  of  pro- 
ceeding which  completely  establishes  the  honesty  of  his 
intentions.  It  is  vain  to  accuse  oi'  franihi/cnf  inter- 
polation a  writer  who  tirst  warns  the  reader  that  he  must 
be  prepared  to  find  some  of  the  translations  of  tlie  docu- 
ments, which  he  lias  presented,  partially  transposed,  and 
corrected  by  the  help  of  geograj)hy  and  chronology,  and 
who  carefully  (juotes,  in  the  same  i)age,  the  passages  in 
the  original,  l)efore  he  presents  them  in  the  shape  which 
he  believes  consistent  with  truth.  If  this  be  fraud,  it  pos- 
sesses a  very  singular  character — it  is  fraud  wliich  courts 
detection — it  is  forgery,  studiously  placing  in  tlie  hands 
of  all  readers  the  documents  by  which  its  inicjuity  may  l)e 
traced  and  established. 

With  regard  to  the  attack  made  u])()n  this  writer  for 
his  ignorance  and  mistranslation,  the  author  of  the  Life 
of  Cabot,  we  think,  in  considering  Hakluyt's  voluminous 
labours,  consisting  of  three  folio  voluincs,  migiit  have 
been  disposed  to  jiardon  a  few  inaccuracies  of  this  na- 
ture. They  will  insinuate  themselves,  however  anxi- 
ous we  may  be  to  avoid  them,  into  all  human  produc- 
tions ;  and  he  who  has  spent  most  time  in  works  re- 
quiring multifarious  research,  and  the  painful  examina- 
tion of  ancient  authorities,  will  be  the  most  disposed  to 
view  with  lenient  eyes  the  errors  of  such  as  are  siinilar- 
ly  occupied.  If  the  biographer  will  turn  to  his  own  Me- 
moir (p.  '2 to),  he  will  find  in  I'as(piiligi's  description  of 
the  captives  the  following  sentence:  "  Ilanno  signata  la 
faza  in  modo  de  Indiani:  chi  da  vi.,  chi  da  viii.,  chi  da 
manco  segni."  Their  faces  they  have  punctured  like  In- 
dians', some  with  six,  some  with  eiglit,  some  ir,  h  fciver 
marks.  In  the  Memoir,  it  is  thus  translated,  "  They  punc- 
ture the  face,  like  the  Indians,  exhibiting,  six,  eight,  «>• 
even  more  nuirhs."  Do  not  let  the  biographer  imagine  that 
we  have  quoted  this  erroneous  version  of  a  very  simple 
passage  with  the  view  of  accusing  him  of  ignorance,  or 
that  there  is  the  slightest  intention  of  insinuating,  that  he 
did  not  know  that  the  four  words  "  chi  da  manco  segni" 
meant  "some  with  fewer  marks."  The  oversight  is  pointed 
out  as  an  example  of  the  occasional  mistranslations  or 
mistakes  into  which,  with  every  desire  to  be  accurate, 
even  a  well-informed  writer  will  occasionally  fall,  that  he 
may  be  inclined  to  extend  to  the  labours  of  others  that 


i3() 


APPKNDIX. 


charity  of  criticism  with  which  ho  would  wish  that  every 
Hheral  mind  should  rej^ard  his  own.* 

The  author  of  the  Life  of  Cahot  was  })erfectly  entitled 
to  maintain  the  theory  that  Sehustian,  the  son,  and  not 
John  ('a})ot,  the  father,  was  the  (Uscoverer  of  North 
America  ;  hnt  he  was  not  entitled  to  adopt,  what  we 
must  denominate  the  disin^eiuious  method  of  making 
an  impression  upon  the  reader's  mind  hy  silently  drop- 
ping the  name  of  the  latter  out  of  passages  where,  if 
he  had  stated  the  whole  truth,  he  ought  to  have  men- 
tioned hoth.  Thus,  at  page  1 71-  we  find  this  remark : 
"  At  his  return  [Sehastian]  (.'ahot  settled  in  Bristol, 
*****  fifty-three  years  after  the  date  of  hh 
first  commission  from  Henry  V^Il."  Again,  page  222, 
we  find  this  notice:  "  Sixty-one  years  had  now  elapsed 
since  the  date  of  the  first  commission  fronj  Henry 
VII.  to  Sehastian  Cahot,  and  the  powers  of  nature  nmst 
have  heen  ahsolutely  wearied  out."  Again,  page  285, 
we  have  another  moreglaringexampleofthisdetermination 
to  keep  thefathei  iitirely  out  of  view  :  "  The  hare  men- 
tion of  theFj  dates  will  estahlish  the  impossilnlity  that  he 
could  liav'e  been  ignorant  of  the  great  discoveries  of  Ca- 
bot [it  is  Sebastian  he  is  speaking  of],  w'lich,  commen- 
cing at  the  point  seen  on  the2  Itli  June  1197,  had  extended 
over  the  '  londe  and  isle'  recited  in  the  second  patent."  In 
the  first  and  stnond  of  these  sentences  John  Cabot's 
name  is  entirely  suppressed,  although  the  commission 
spoken  of  was  directed  to  him,  along  with  his  three  sons; 
anil  in  the  last,  the  entire  merit  of  the  discovery  is  ascrib- 
ed to  Sebastian,  at  the  moment  the  biot  apher  is  quoting 
the  words  of  the  second  commission,  which  positively  at- 
tributes it  to  John. 

Allusion  has  already  been  shortly  made  to  the  "  evi- 
dence" contained  in  the  inscription  upon  an  ancient  por- 
trait of  Sebastian  Cabot;  but  we  must  be  allowed,  for  a 
moment,  to  add  a  few  words  upon  this  proof,  wliich  is 
very  important  and  conclusive.  There  isno'v  in  existence 
a  portrait  of  this  navigator  by  Holbeii  ,  for     minute  his- 

*  In  the  same  passage  from  Pasquilig'i,  another  oversifj^ht  occnrs : 
"  Nela  terra lorononhannoferro:  ma  fannocortelli  dealcunepietre." 
Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  240,  "In  their  country  they  do  not  possess 
iron — hut  they  make  knives  of  particular  kinds  of  stones.  The 
hiojjrapher  translates  cortelli  tiU'orda. 


m^*' 


I'ish  that  every 

rfectly  entitled 
3  son,  and  not 
'rer  of  North 
[opt,  what  we 
)(1    of  making; 

silently  drop- 
iges  where,  if 
to  have  inen- 

this  remark : 
ed  in  Bristol, 
le  date  of  his 
ain,  i)age  222, 
1 1  now  elapsed 

from  Henry 
»f  natnre  nmst 
lin,  paj^e  23.5, 
^determination 
Phe  hare  men- 
nihility  that  he 
overies  of  Ca- 
ich,  commen- 
,  had  extended 
id  patent."  In 
John  (  ahot's 
commission 

is  three  sons ; 

very  is  ascrib- 

ler  is  quoting 

positively  at- 

to  tlie  "  avi- 
an cient  por- 
illowed,  for  a 
oof,  which  is 
in  existence 
minute  his- 

.'er.siji;ht  occurs : 

ealcune  pietre." 

do  not  j)o,sse.ss 

stones.  '     The 


VINDHATIOX  or  riAKM'VT. 


437 


tory  of  which  we  refer  the  reader  to  the  Appendix  to  the 
Memoir  of  Cabot.*  It  is  sufficic-nt  for  our  purpose,  to 
remark  that  it  isaiknowled_i2;ed  to  be  an  original,  for  nhich 
Sebastian  sat  to  the  artist,  and  wbich,  in  the  time  of 
I'urchas,  hung  in  the  Privy  CJallery  at  VVliitehall.  dpon 
this  picture  is  the  foUowiiiL,'  inscription: — "  Kftigies  8el). 
('aboti  Angli,  filii  JoJiannis  (.'aboti  Veneti  Militis  Aurati, 
l*rind  Inventoris  Terriu  Nov;i'  sub  Henrico  \'ll.  Angliie 
Ilege."  It  IS  evident  by  the  common  rules  of  grununati- 
cal  construction,  that  the  words  Militis  Aurati,  I'rimi 
J:iventoris  Terr;c  Nova*  sub  Henrico  V'll.  Angliic  Wo^c, 
apply  exclusively  to  .John  Cabot :  and  if  so,  they  contain 
a  positive  assertion  that  John  was  the  first  discoverer  of 
North  iVmerica.  Now,  the  authenticity  of  the  picture 
l)eing  undoubted,  the  inscription  furm'shes  as  convincing 
a  piece  of  evidence  as  could  well  be  conceived.  And  again, 
it  may  he  f  irly  argued,  tha^  the  circumstance  of  the 
words  Militis  Aurati  being  foimd  united  with  the  name 
of  John  Cabot,  by  wiiich  it  is  ])roved  that  the  king  had 
conferred  on  him,  and  not  on  Sebastian,  the  honour  of 
knighthood,  affords  the  strongest  presumption  that  it  was 
John  who  was  the  original  discoverer. 

This  remark  leads  us,  in  the  last  place,  to  expose  an 
extraordinary  series  of  errors  connnitted  by  the  biogra- 
pher, in  relation  to  this  Latin  inscri[)tion  on  the  picture. 
lie  has  accused  Dr  Henry,  I)r  Campbell,  and  theautliors 
of  the  Biographia  liritannica  of  an  absurd  misconce[)tion, 
in  imagining  that  the  words  Militis  Aurati  indicate 
that  John  Cabot  had  been  knighted.  But  it  is  justice  to 
let  him  speak  for  himself.  He  first  demonstrates  that 
tlie  w^ords  Miles  Auratus  cannot  possibly  apply  to  li,>.- 
son  Sebastian,  after  which  he  proceeds  thus  : — "  The 
point  being  thus  clear  with  regard  to  the  son,  other 
writers  have  assumed,  as  a  matter  of  course,  that  the  dis- 
tinction (of  knighthood) must  have  been  conferred  on  John 
(.'abot."  "  Accordingly,  Cam})bell,  in  his  Lives  of  the  Ad- 
mirals, has  an  ar  icle  entitled  Sir  iJohn  Cabot.  Dr  Henry 
informs  us,  in  his  History  of  Britain,  vol.  vi.  p.  (ilS,  that 
John  Cabot  was  graciously  received  and  knightetl  on  his 
return,  and  the  same  statement  is  reptitcd  in  the  Biogra- 
phia  Britannica."   "  To  the  utter  confusion,"  he  continues, 

*  Alcmoir  of  Cabot,  Appendix,  Letter  F.  p.  Ii23. 


438 


ai'im;m)ix. 


"  of  all  ihcso  grave  autlioritics,  a  inoniont's  consideration 
will  show  Unit  t/ir  ironLs  rclinl  on  do  in  tlivniKi'h'v.s  jn'orr 
that  kit'uihthood  luiil  not  hri'U  roHj'errrtt.  It  is  scaricly  in'- 
cessary  to  follow  op  this  sug;;t'stion  hy  stating,  that  in  ro- 
fcriMice  to  ono  who  had  received  ihat  honour,  they  would 
haveheoi, not Militi.s Anvtiti  hut Kqnitis Anroti.  'I'hough 
the  term  Miles  is  soinetinics  applied  in  old  documents 
even  to  Peers,  yet,  as  a  popular  designation,  the  lan- 
guage of  the  inscription  negatives  the  idea  of  knighthood. 
In  the  very  works  inmiediately  coimected  with  the  suh- 
ject  of  the  present  voUime,  the  appropriate  [)hrase  per- 
petually occurs.  'I'hus,  I'^t/iirs  Auratus  is  used  to  de- 
signate Sir  Ilunjpl.rey  (Jiihert  (Ilakluyt,  vol.  iii.  p.  I'M)  ; 
Sir  Hugh  \Vil]ouglil)y,  ih.  p.  11'^  ;  Sir  Martin  Frohisher, 
lb.  p.  I  I'J  ;  Sir  Francis  Drake,  ih.  |).  1  l;{.  In  the  dedi- 
cation of  Lok's  translation  of  Fete  r  .Martyr,  it  is  in  like 
manner  used,  and  we  see  it  at  this  moment  on  the  *  Ef- 
figies' of  Sir  Walter  Kaleigh,  prefixed  to  the  first  edition 
of  his  History  of  the  \\\)rld.  It  will  probably  be  deemed 
very  superfluous  to  refer  to  Selden's  Titles  of  Honour 
(p.  H.'io)  for  a  confirmation  of  what  has  been  stated. 
The  weight  of  censure  nuist  fall  on  Furchas,  who  was 
originally  guilty  oi'  f/ic  hlnnder."* 

()ne  would  have  thought  that  the  writer  must  have 
been  very  sure  of  the  gn  uud  on  wliich  lie  stood  before 
he  ventured  to  assume  so  lofty  and  decisive  a  tone, — and 
yet  we  are  altogether  at  a  loss  for  expressions  which  may 
mark  courteously,  and  yet  strongly,  the  combination  of 
error,  ignorance,  and  absurdity  presented  by  this  extraor- 
dinary sentence.  He  first  argues,  that  the  words  Miles  iVu- 
ratus  are  never  used  to  denote  a  knight ;  and,  secondly,  that 
where  they  are  used,  they  '"  do  in  themselves  prove  that 
knighthood  had  not  been  conferred,"  Now,  fortunately, 
the  biographer  allows  that  Sir  Iluuiphrey  (iilbert  was  a 
knight,  indeed  he  is  one  of  his  own  examples  of  Equites 
Aurati.  Keeping  this  in  mind,  we  request  him  to  turn  to 
Holland's  celebratetl  and  well-known  work,  the  Heroolo- 
gia  Angliie,  containing  the  engraved  i)ortraits  of  the 
most  eminent  English  warriors,  navigators,  statesmen, 
and  ecclesiastical  reformers,  who  flourished  in  England 
from  1.500  to  1G20.     He  will  there  find,  at  p.  (J.5,  vol.  i.,  a 


»  Memoir  of  Cabot,  p.  Ua 


;||jJW»»*«»*-«*« 


VINIUCATION  OF  IIAKLUVT. 


\'A9 


consideration 
insr/iuw  prorr 
is  scarcc'ly  lu-, 
tig,  that  ill  re- 
r,  tiicy  would 
'•(ifi.  'riiou<i;li 
Id  documents 
ion,  the  hm- 
f  kiiiijjhlhood. 
vith  tile  sub- 
e  phrase  per- 
used to  de- 
.  iii.  p.  I;J7)  ; 
in  Frohisiier, 
In  tile  dedi- 
",  it  is  in  like 
on  tile  •  Ei'- 
i  first  edition 
ly  be  deemed 
■<  of  Honour 
been  stated, 
as,  who  was 

•  must  have 
stood  before 
I  tone, — and 

wiiieli  may 
nbination  of 
ills  extraor- 
is  .Miles  A u- 
jcondly,  that 
i  prove  that 
fortunately, 
ilbert  was  a 
;  of  Equites 
m  to  turn  to 
le  Ileroolo- 
aits  of  the 

statesmen, 
in  England 
io,  vol.  i.,  a 


beautiful  head  of  Sir  Humphrey  (iilbert.ajid  around  it  the 
follcnvinu;  inscription, — "  llrMridiMs  (iiutiiu  1 1  <,  Milks 
AiMAiis."  Do  tliese  words  prove  here  that  knightliood 
had  not  been  conlerred  ?  Again,  we  beg  him  to  turn  to  an- 
oiher  engraving  in  the  same  work,  the  portrait  of  the  ce- 
lebrated Sir  Richard  (irenville,  of  whose  knightiiood  there 
is  not  the  smallest  doubt.  It  will  be  found  at  page  H.i  of 
the  tirst  vohnne  of  ilolkin.d's  work,  and  it  is  thus  inscribed 
around  the  margin,—"  H.<  mauim  s  (iiti:\vii,rs.  Mil. 
Ai  H  :"  (Miles  Aiiratus.)  Ihit  the  biographer  has  (pioted 
thefamnisSir  Francis  Drake,  as  illustrating  his  argument. 
lie  points  triumphantly  to  him  as  an  undoubted  knight, 
being  styled  Ivpus  Auratus,  and  to  whom,  therefore,  the 
words  Miles  Aurutus  could  not  jxissibly  be  ajjplied.  Oiu'e 
more,  we  beg  bini  to  turn  to  the  lleroologia,  vol.  i.  page 
10.>.  He  will  there  see  a  striking  portrait  of  Drake, 
with  his  hand  resting  on  the  globe,  and  these  words 
round  the  margin  of  the  print, — "  Kuan*  i^(  is  Dhaki-, 
Miij:s  AruAiis,"  One  other  exam[)le  may  be  given 
of  the  common  use  (»f  those  words  to  denote  knight- 
iiood, which,  according  to  the  positive  assertion  of  our 
author,  are  never  fou'ul  together,  and  which,  if  used, 
prove  that  this  honour  had  not  been  conferred.  It  is  the 
first  sentence  in  Holland's  Life  of  Sir  .John  Iliirrington, 
Heroologia,  i)age  l.'J.'i.  "  .loannes  Harington  filius  natu 
maximus  Clarissimi  3////7/.V  .lacobi  Ilaringtoni  de  Fxton, 
in  Comitatu  Kutlandie,  Ivpiestri  sen  Milifi.s  Anrnti  digni- 
tate  multis  abhinc  annis  a  l)eatissinue  memoria"  Ilegina 
EHzabetha  insignilus  fuit."  It  need  hardly  be  i>ointcd 
out  to  the  intelligent  reader,  that  this  brief  sentence  of 
four  lines,  in  its  use  of  the  word  Miles  by  itself  to  denote 
knighthood,  and  Miles  Auratus,  as  synonymous  with  the 
terms  dignitas  iMjuestris,  overturns  the  whole  argument 
of  the  biographer,  who  not  only  contends  that  the  ex- 
pression Miles  Auratus  is  never  used  as  descriptive  of 
knighthood,  but  that,  excejit  in  ancient  deeds,  the  sin- 
gle word  Miles  never  occurs.  Had  he  taken  the  trouble 
to  consult  any  friend  who  possessed  even  a  superficial 
acquaintance  with  the  language  in  which  the  inscrip- 
tion was  written,  he  must  have  discovered  that  the  words 
Eques  Auratus,  Miles  Auratus,  E(iues  by  itself,  and  Miles 
by  itself,  are  used  indiscriminately  in  modern  Latin  to 
ilenote  knighthood;   and  that  the  "absurd  misconcep- 

5 


iiO 


appi;m)I> 


tion"  imputed  to  others,  existed  nowhere  hut  in  his  own 
ideas. 

Hut  even  had  we  nothecn  ahk  to  (juotesueh  unanswer- 
ahleinstancesasHuniplirey.tJreiiville,  J  )rake, and  Harring- 
ton, it  is  singular  tliat  it  sliould  not  have  occurred  to  this 
writer  that  tlie  words  Miles  Auratiis  upon  John  Cahot's 
portrait  must  necessaii'y  liav'e  had  some  meaning, — that 
they  must  either  he  hteraliy  translated,  or  he  understood  to 
express  kn.ighthood.  Now  this  last  he  will  not  allow 
them  to  denote  ;  and  the  orily  meaning  he  affixes  to 
them  is,  that  they  "  negative  the  idea  of  knighthood,  and 
prove  that  such  an  honour  had  not  heen  conferred."  \Ve 
are  driven  then  to  a  literal  interpretation  ;  and  itis  impos- 
sihle  lor  him,  according  to  the  j)rincii)le  he  has  laid  down, 
to  give  any  other  translation  than  this:  "  The  portrait 
of  Sehastian  Cahot,  Englishman,  son  of  John  Cahot  the 
Venetian,  a  golden  sokiier,  but  by  no  means  a  knight." 
Such  is  the  singular  and  anuising  interpretation  which, 
had  he  weighed  his  own  assertion  for  a  moment,  or  had 
he  exerted  that  s])irit  of  diligent,  accurate,  and  extensive 
research  (we  are  u  .ing  his  own  words)  to  which  he  lays 
claim,*  the  biogra})her  must  havefound  it  necessary  toadopt. 
These  various  errors  have  heen  pointed  out  with  no  other 
feeling  than  a  desire  of  showing  the  recklessness  of  the  at- 
tack upon  ('am})hell,  Henry,  and  the  authors  of  the  J3io- 
gra])hia  Britanni^a.  It  is  dilficult,  indeed,  to  repress  a 
smile  when  wt  com])are  the  ])itterness  and  severity  of  the 
criticism  with  the  extreme  ignorance  of  the  critic  ;  and  in 
taking  leave  of  this  subject,  we  may  be  pernntted  to  hope 
that  the  recollection  of  his  chapter  on  the  words  Miles 
Auratus  will  induce  the  cham))ion  of  Sehastian  ('abot  to  re- 
vise Ids  Latin,  and  to  be  more  lenient  to  the  real  or  supposed 
mistakes  of  his  predecessors  and  contemporaries. 

It  lias  been  shown,  we  trust,  to  the  satisfaction  of  every 
one  who  will  impartially  weigh  the  evidence,  that  John 
Cabot  was  the  discoverer  of  North  America ;  and  it  is 
satisfactory  to  find  that  all  that  may  he  called  the  con- 
tem})orary  proofs, — the  first  commission  in  llymer,  tlie 
brief  narrative  on  the  map  hy  Clement,  the  words  of  the 
second  commission,  and  the  inscription  on  the  picture, — 

*  Introduction  to  Momoir  of  Cabot,  p.  1.     Komarks  on  the  lle- 
vined  Edition  of  Edinburgh  Cabinet  Library,  p.  1. 


i  Mjj)p,.iii«i   .wiiiwiniHun 


«i*^^-rt<^ 


but  in  his  own 

such  unnnswer- 
\e,aii(IIIurring. 
occurred  to  this 
1  John  Cabot's 
uieaning, — that 
>e  understood  to 
will  not  allow 
?  he  affixes  to 
nio;htlioo(l,  and 
nferred."     We 
anditisimpos- 
iias  laid  down, 
"  The  portrait 
'olin  Cabot  the 
■ans  a  knight." 
etation  wiiich, 
lonientj  or  had 
,  and  extensive 
wliich  lie  lays 
•essarytoado})t. 
;  with  no  other 
sness  of  the  at- 
3rs  of  the  Bio- 
I,  to  repress  a 
severity  of  the 
critic ;  and  in 
niitted  to  hope 
e  words  Miles 
an  C'abot  to  re- 
eal  or  supposed 
aries. 

iction  of  every 
ce,  that  John 
ca ;  and  it  is 
died  the  con- 
1  Ryrner,  tlie 
■  w^ords  of  the 
the  picture, — 

arks  on  the  lle- 


VIXniOATIOiV  OF  HAKLUVT. 


4tl 


confirm  the  conclusion  that  thi.>  \'enetian  was  entitled  to 
the  honour.  Before,  however,  concluding  these  remarks,  we 
may  add  a  single  word,  on  tlie  testimony  of  later  authors. 
Fabyan,  or  the  contemporary  writer,  for  he  is  spoken  of 
under  both  ilenominations,  IJacon,  I)e  Thou,  and  Speed, 
are  all  cited  by  the  biographer  as  exclusively  in  favour 
of  the  title  of  Sebastian.  "  We  have  the  best  evidence," 
says  be  (p.  11),  "  that  the  contemporary  writer,  who- 
e/er  be  may  have  been,  made  not  the  slightest  allusion 
to  the  father.  Bacon,  Speed,  'I'buanus,  ike.  all  furnish 
the  same  statement."  Now,  with  regard  to  Fabyan, 
in  his  printed  Chronicle  there  is  no  allusion,  either  to 
the  original  discovery  cm  the  '2'th  June  1 197,  or  to  the 
subsequent  voyage  of  Sebastian  Cabot  in  IVJH  ;  and  as  to 
the  supposed  manuscript  Chronicle  which  is  stated  by 
Stow  to  have  been  in  his  possession,  it  a])pears  to  have 
l)erished,  and  we  have  no  nuxle  of  ascertaining  its  import, 
except  through  the  note  of  Ilakluyt,  which,  as  far  as  it  goes, 
is  nowise  against  theclaim  of  John  Ciiljot.  Nay,  even  grant- 
ing that  (to  the  contrary  of  which  we  have  strong  proof)  in 
Stow's  Chronicle,  published  in  KiO.'i,  occurs  the  very  pas- 
sage of  the  lost  manuscript  of  Fabyan,  and  that  in  this  pas- 
sage Sebastian  Cabot,  a  (ienoa's  son,  born  in  Bristol,  is 
alone  mentioned  ;  still  the  reader  is  already  aware  of  the 
conclusive  answer,  namely,  that  the  passage  relates  not  to 
the  first  voyage  of  1 197,  but  to  the  second  voyage  of  1  t9H, 
of  which  all  are  agreed  that  Sebastian  Cabot  had  the  com- 
mand. But  another  evidence  in  favour  of  Sebastian  as 
the  original  discoverer  is  said  to  be  found  in  Lord  Ba- 
con's Life  of  Henry  \TL  ^^'e  can  scarcely  i)e:  suade  our- 
selves that  any  one  who  makes  this  assertion  can  have  atten- 
tively studied  tlie  remark  in  question,  so  evidently  does  it 
allude,  we  think,  where  it  mentions  Sebastian,  to  the  second 
voyage  of  1498,  and  not  to  the  original  voyage  of  1497. 
That  Bacon  was  aware  this  was  not  the  first  discovery, 
and  that  he  had  a  vague  knowledge  of  a  prior  voyage,  in 
which  the  continent  of  America  was  originally  found  out,  is 
evident  from  this  sentence  :  "  And  there  bad  been  before 
that  time  a  discovery  of  some  lands,  which  they  took  to 
be  idands,  and  were,  indeed,  the  continent  of  America 
towards  the  north-w..st."  Again,  as  if  anxious  to  warn 
the  reader  as  to  there  having  been  a  prior  discovery,  be 
saysj  "  But  this  Gabato  bearing  the  king  in  hand  that  he 

2e 


'  ''S'ftCA'"* 


U2 


APPENDIX. 


would  find  out  an  island  endued  witli  rich  commodities, 
procured  him  toman  and  victual  a  ship  at  Bristol,  for  the 
discovery  of  that  island,  with  whom  ventured  also  three 
small  ships  of  London  merchants,  fraught  with  some  gross 
and  slight  wares,  fit  for  commerce  with  barbarous  people."* 
It  is  evident  that  Lord  Bacon  is  here  making  use  of  the 
[)assage  in  Stow,  employing,  with  some  slight  alterations, 
its  very  words.  So  far,  however,  from  containing  a 
proof  that  the  merit  of  the  original  discovery  belongs  to 
Sebastian,  it  warns  the  reader  that  the  continent  had 
already  been  found  in  some  prior  voyage,  although  no 
name  is  given,  and  the  date  is  left  uncertain.  The  obser- 
vation of  the  biographer,  therefore,  that  Bacon  makes  no 
allusion  to  the  father,  is  literally  correct ;  but  the  inference 
drawn  from  it,  th;it  therefore  Baccn's  testimony  goes  to 
support  the  claim  of  Sebastian  as  the  original  discoverer, 
is  completely  excluded  when  the  passage  comes  to  be  nar- 
rowly examined. 

As  to  DeTliou,  this  great  writer,  so  far  as  we  have  looked 
through  his  voluminous  historicalwork,  contains  no  passage 
upon  the  sul)iect  of  either  voyage ;  and  thesame  observation 
aj)phes  to  such  editions  of  (irafton,  Ilolinshed,  Ilall,  and 
riarding,  as  we  have  had  an  opportunity  of  consulting.  It 
has  been  already  remarked  that  the  sentence  quoted  from 
Stow,  which  the  biographer  erroneously  conceives  to  offer  a 
proof  that  Sebastian  had  the  sole  charge  of  the  voyage  of 
1497,  in  which  the  discovery  was  made,  relates  solely  to 
the  seccnd  voyage  of  11 98. t  ^\'ith  regard  to  Speed,  whom 
he  also  (juotes  as,  along  with  Bacon  and  De  Thou^  mak- 
ing no  allusion  to  the  father,  the  same  answer  strictly 
aj)plies, — the  only  voyage  of  which  he  takes  notice  being 
the  second,  in  1 198,  as  is  distinctly  fixed  by  his  observa- 
tion that  it  took  place  after  the  a})prehension  of  Berkin 
A\^arbeck.;};  It  is  very  evident,  however,  that  the  biogra- 
})her  was  bound  to  show  that  Bacon,  Stow,  and  Sjjeed 
had  given  an  account  of  the  first  voyage  of  1497,  in  wliich 
the  <liscovery  was  made,  a  .d  in  that  account  had  introduced 
no  allusion  to  the  father,  before  hj  was  entitled,  from  their 


th 


*  Bacon's  Honrv  V'll.  in  Kfunot,  vof  i.  u.  (124. 

•f-  Stow's  Clironii  li's  by  IIowo,  edition  KmI,  p.  4iil. 

:{:  Spt'od's  Ilisldiy  (if  Great  Britain,  j).  744,  edition    ITdl.      in 

e  edition  of  Speed's  work  |)nl)lisliod  in  1032,  there  is  no  mention  ot 


tiie  voyage  of  either  of  the  Cahots. 


t,;,v<  •»■■ 


ich  commodities, 
at  Bristol,  for  the 
ntured  also  tliree 
t  with  some  ^oss 
rbarous  i)eopIe."* 
lakinp^  use  of  the 
slight  alterations, 
Jm    containin<j;  a 
overy  belongs  to 
e  continent  had 
i^e,  although  no 
"11.     'ilieobser- 
iiacon  makes  no 

)ut  the  inference 
istimony  goes  to 
ginal  discoverer, 
comes  to  be  nar- 

is  we  have  looked 
nUiins  no  passage 
sauie  observation 
nshed,  Hall,  and 
^f  con  suiting.     Jt 
'Hce  quoted'from 
)nceives  to  otter  a 
of  tiie  voyage  of 
relates  solely  to 
to  Speed,  whom 
l^e  Thou,  mak- 
answer  strictly 
kes  notice  beiu"- 
by  his  observa- 
ision  of  I'erkin 
that  the  biogra- 
ow,  and  Speed 
11.97,  in  which 
had  introduced 
tied,  from  their 

I. 

4!il. 

lition   I'd  I,     j„ 

L'  is  no  uioiitiou  ot 


VINDICATIOX  OF   MAKM'VT. 


4.i;{ 


omission,  to  draw  any  argument  against  him.     In  tliis, 
however,  he  has  totally  failed. 

The  fact  is  certainly  remarkable  tliat,  whilst  in  con- 
temporary documents  of  uncjuestionable  authority  we 
find  convincing  proof  of  the  discovery  having  been  made 
by  John  Cabot,  in  none  of  the  English  annalists  or 
historians  who  treat  of  the  reign  of  Henry  \TI.  do  we 
see  any  account  of  the  hrst  voyage,  whilst  many  of  them 
have  distinctly  recorded  the  circumstances  of  the  second. 
But  of  this  it  is  not  difficult  to  (Uscover  the  reason.  The 
first  voyage  was  a  j)rivate  adventure  or  experiment  by 
John  Cabot,  and  prol)ably  little  known  or  talked  of  be- 
yond the  city  of  Bristol.  It  was  undertaken  at  the  ex- 
pense, not  of  the  crown,  but  of  the  individual  ;  and  after 
having  made  the  discovery,  Cabot  appears  to  have  re- 
turned at  once  without  exploring  the  coast,  to  make  pre- 
j)arations  for  a  voyage  on  a  more  extended  scale.  \\'hen 
he  reached  England,  in  the  month  of  August  I  i97 ,  being 
shortly  after  the  commencement  of  the  thirteenth  year  of 
Henry's  reign,  he  found  the  sovereign  and  his  kingdom  in  a 
state  of  extreme  anxiety  and  confusion.  The  king  was  en- 
grossed with  an  invasion  of  tiie  Scots,  with  a  formidable  re- 
bellion inCornwall,  and  a  new  rising  in  favour  of  W'arbeck, 
the  leader  of  which  threatened  to  pluck  the  crown  from  his 
head  and  give  it  to  that  adventurer,  who,  early  in  Septem- 
ber, had  landed  from  Ireland  and  assumed  the  title  of 
Richard  IV.  It  was  ui)()n  these  great  events, — the  attacks 
of  his  enemies,  and  the  measures  adoj)ted  to  defeat  them, — 
that  the  mind  of  the  contemporary  writers,  and  of  the 
succeeding  chroniclers  and  annalists,  was  naturally  con- 
centrated; and,  engrossed  with  them,  they  paid  little  atten- 
tion to  the  discovery  of  a  private  niereliantof  Bristol.  It 
is  for  this  reason,  we  apprehend,  that  we  in  vain  look  in 
Fabyan  and  in  Stow  for  any  detailed  account,  or  even 
incidental  mention,  of  the  discovery  of  \\97. 

The  circumstances,  howcNer.  under  which  the  second 
voyage,  in  1 19K,  took  j)lace,  which  all  are  agreed  was  con- 
ducted solely  by  Sebastian  Cabot,  were  completely  dif- 
ferent. It  was  undertaken  at  the  expense  of  the  king,  who 
furnished  the  ships ;  it  contem])lated  a  scheme  of  setdement 
and  colonization,  in  which  all  the  ardent  and  enterj)rising 
spirits  in  the  nation  were  invited  to  co-oi)erate.  Many, 
there  is  reason  to  believe,  did  embark  in  tlie  undertaking; 


it* 


API»KM)IX. 


and,  instead  of  merely  landing  on  the  island  and  returnin^^ 
home,  the  voyage  emhraced  the  discovery  of  a  large  tract 
of  coast,  till  that  period  unknown.  If  to  this  we  add  the 
consideration  that,  ahout  the  time  when  the  second  expe- 
dition must  have  returned  to  Jiristol,  the  kingdom  was  in 
profound  peace,  hoth  at  home  and  aliroad,  it  will  not  he  dif- 
ficult to  understand  why  this  voyage  should  constitute  the 
event  uj)on  whicli  the  attenticm  of  our  national  amialists 
has  l)een  exclusively  fixed,  whilst  the  former,  in  which 
the  discovery  was  undouhtedly  made,  has  heen  passed 
over  by  them  altogether,  lint  althoug  i  chroniclers  and 
liistorians  may  fall  into  many  errors  of  omission,  the  ori- 
ginal muniments  of  the  country  and  the  })eriod  remain  ; 
and  these,  cond)ine(l  with  the  narrative  u})on  the  map  and 
theinscri})tionon  the  ancient  portrait,  completely  establish 
the  fact  that  John  ('ai)()t,  the  \'enetian,  was,  in  1197,  the 
discoverer  of  North  America,  under  a  commission  from 
Henry  \'II.  'i'his  portion  of  historical  truth,  which  has 
hitherto  certainly  heen  surrounded  with  much  obscurity 
and  aj)parent  contradiction,  and  of  late  absolutely  denied 
by  the  biograiiher  of  Cabot,  has  now,  we  trust,  been  esta- 
blished u\Km  grounds  which  can)iot  easily  be  shaken. 


I  jii:  KM». 


Olivtr  ii  iiujd,  rniiicis. 


and  returning 
i'  a  large  tract 
lis  we  add  the 
second  expe- 
ngdom  was  in 
villnotbedif- 
eonstitute  tlie 
onal  annalists 
ler,  in  which 
heen  ])assed 
roniders  and 
sion,  the  ori- 
nod  remain  ; 
the  maj)and 
tely  establish 
in  1497,  the 
iiission  from 
1,  which  has 
ch  obscurity 
utely  denied 
t,  heen  esta- 
shaken. 


-•'?{B.l*alSttiWi.'-ii.:S'*BiK»m»«ia  . 


mM&