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-V

NOTIONS

OF THE

AMERICANS

PICKED UP BY A

TRAVELLING BACHELOR.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. I.

LONDON:
HENRY COLBURN, NEW BURLINGTON STREET.

1828.

.? 9 0

-i

DEDICATION.

JOHN CADWALLADER,

OF CADWALLADER,

IN THB

STATIi OF NEW YORK, UNITED STATES OF AMEEICA.

Without your aid and kindness these pages
could never have been written. Whatever others
may think of their merit, it is certain that
you and I believe they contain some truths.
We must therefore endeavour to keep each
other in good humour, provided they shall hap-
pen to be neglected rather more than our joint
opinions may lead us to think they deserve.

Shortly after my return to the queen of cities,
there was a happy reunion of all the remaining
members of the club. I know you will be glad to
hear, that, with a solitary exception, this embraced

DEDICATION.

almost every man whose name has stood on the
roll since its formation. But, alas ! there is one ex-
ception. The poor Dane has fallen. The worthy
professor was too long engaged in sedentary
employments in a warm climate. I write it with
grief, but he was married at Verona, about eleven
o'clock on the morning of the 16th August last, to
the daughter of an Italian physician. Jules B6-
thizy and Waller were both at Florence when he
was first taken, and they flew to his assistance
with the earnestness of a long-tried friendship.
But remedies wer«^ ^ late. From the first mo-
ment the symptoms . cemed threatening ; and as
the best advice was fortunately so close at hand.,
there is reason to think the malady was perfectly
incurable. Bethizy has some suspicions of foul
play, and makes dark allusions to philtres and
amulets ; but the father of the fair infection so-
lemnly protests that the whole is the effect of sun
and solitude. We have done all that remained to
sorrowing friends. An epithalamium has been
written by the Russian, and it was set to solemn
music by the Abate. A brass plate has been let
into the back of the fauteuil of the derelict, con-
taining an appropriate inscription, and two me-

DEDICATION.

Vll

jnento mori are cut in its sides. A wedding
ring has also been attached to the nose of the
portrait, which, as I have often told you, is al-
ways suspended over the chair of a member.

The question of a successor has been deeply
agitated among us. Nothing but the exceeding li-
berality which pervades and colours our meetings
could have ensured the result which has grown
out of the election. Yes, my friend, the empty
fauteuil is yours ; and, as I know you have des-
troyed the coat of arms of your European ances-
tors, 1 have caused a design of my own to be em-
blazoned in the proper place. It is a constellation
of twenty-four stars, surrounded by a cloud of
nebula, with a liberty cap for a crest, and two
young negroes as supporters. I was obliged to
adopt this equivocal blazonry, in order to quiet
all parties, for the election was not without a
struggle. A great deal, was said about liberality,
but 1 believe you know that liberality always sup-
poses certain reservations. The Abate objected
a good deal to the preponderance of the Protestant
interest, and I thought Waller was a little jealous
of having a member who might introduce a dialect
of his mother tongue. But Jules B6thizy stood

vin

DEDICATION'.

by you like a man, and the Russian swore you
were his neighbour, and that in you should come.
In short, the question was carried ; and now the
agony is over, both the Baronet and the Priest put
the best possible face on it.

Come to us, then, dear John, as soon as you can
tear yourself from the delights of home. We con-
template a great and general movement during the
next three years' recess, and an honourable station
shall be assigned you in the task of peregrination.
There is a good deal of distrust manifested by some
unbelievers in our body concerning the matter
detailed in my letters ; but n*importe, thirty years
ago most of the worthy members did not know the
colour of the skin of the people concerning whom
I have written. They who live thirty years hence
may live long enough to discover, that what now
seems so marvellous will then be deemed quite a
matter of course. — Adieu.

PREFACE.

The writer of these Letters is not without
some of the yea nings of paternity in committing
the offspring of his brain to the world. His chief
concern is that the book may pass as near as
possible for what it was intended in the design,
however the execution may fall short of the plan.

A close and detailed statistical work on the
United States of America, could not keep its
place as an authority for five years. What is true
this year would the next become liable to so
many explanations, that the curious would soon
cease to consult its pages. The principles of
the government, and the state of society, are
certainly more permanent; but the latter varies
rapidly in the different stages of a life tljat is so
progressive. Nothing more has, therefore, been
attempted here, than to give a hasty and general
sketch of most things of interest, and to commu-
nicate what is told in as unpretending and familiar

X PKtIACK.

a way as the subjects themselves would con-
veniently allow.

The facts of these volumes are believed to be,
in general, correct. The Author does not claim
to be exempt from error ; but as he has given some
thought and a great deal of time to the subjects
of which he has treated, he hopes that refutation
will not easily attack him in the shape of evi-
dence. His reasoning— if rapid, discursive, and
ill-arranged arguments can aspire to so high a
name — must, of course, depend on its own value.
A great number will certainly condemn it, for it
as certainly opposes the opinions of a vast num-
ber of very honest people in Europe. Still, as he
has no one object but the good of all his fellow-
creatures in view, he hopes no unworthy motive
will be ascribed to his publication.

A great number of readers will be indisposed to
believe that the United States of America are of
the importance which the writer does not disguise
he has attempted to shew that they are of to the
rest of the world. On this subject there will, pro-
bably, remain a diversity of opinion, that time
only can decide. As it is probable that in this
unfortunate dispute there will be many against
him, the Author will endeavour to content himself
with the consideration that time is working much
faster than common on the points that are most
involved in the matter. He is quite satisfied with
the umpire.

PUEKACK.

There is a much graver offence against the
rights of readers than any contained in the
opinions of this work. A vast deal has been
printed that should not have been, and much has
been omitted that might have been properly said.
Li.'* circumstances allowed of no choice between
great and acknowledged imperfections, or total
silence. Something of the extent of this demerit,
therefore, must depend on the fact of whether
enough has been told to justify the publication at
all. The writer has not treated the public with
so little ceremony as to usher a work into their
notice without, at least, believing that a fair pro-
portion of this apology is contained in its pages.
If he deceives himself, it will be his misfortune ;
and if he does not deceive his readers, he will
rejoice.

The circumstances to which allusion has just
been made, involve haste in printing no less than
haste in selection. There are errors of style, and
some faults of grammar, that are perhaps the re-
sult of combined neglect on the part of the au-
thor, the copyists, and the printers. The word
** assured" is, for instance, used for ** insured,''
and adverbs have, in several cases, been con-
verted into adjectives. In one or two instances,
negatives have been introduced where it was
not intended to use them. But they who detect
most of these blunders will know how to make
allowances for their existence ; and to those

XII

PREl- ACK.

who do not, it will be a matter of but little
interest. The author has far less ambition to be
thought a fine writer, than to be thought an accu-
rate observer and a faithful narrator of what he
has witnessed.

It will be seen that much use has been made of
the opinions and information of a native American.
Without some such counsellor, the facts of this
book could never have been collected. There is,
perhaps, no Christian country on earth in which a
foreigner is so liable to fall into errors as in the
United States of America. The institutions, the
state of society, and even the impulses of the
people, are in some measure new and peculiar.
The European, under such circumstances, has a
great deal to unlearn before he can begin to learn
correctly.

America has commonly been viewed in the ex-
ceptions rather than in the rules. This is a com-
mon fault with all travellers, since it at once
gratifies their spleen and indulges their laziness.
It is a bad compliment to human nature, but
not the less true, to say that no young traveller
enters a foreign country without early commenc-
ing the task of invidious comparison. This is
natural enough, certainly, for we instantly miss
the things to which we have been accustomed,
and which may owe half their value to use ; and
it requires time and habit to create new attach-
ments. This trait of character is by no means

'•I

PRKFACE.

XUl

confined to Europe. The writer can assure his con-
temporaries, that few men travel among foreign
nations with a more laudable disdain than the
native of the States of which these volumes treat.
He has his joke and his sneer, and not unfre-
quently his reason, as well as the veriest petit-
maitre of the Tuileries, or any exquisite of a
London club-house. Ere long he will begin to
make books, too ; and as he has an unaccommo-
dating manner of separating the owner from the
soil, it is not improbable that he may find a pro-
cess by which he will give all due interest to the
recollections of former ages, while he pays a
passing tribute to this.

The writer has not the smallest doubt that
many orthodox unbelievers will listen to what he
has said of America in this work, with incredu-
lous ears. He invites all such stout adherents to
their own preconceived opinions, to submit to a
certain examination of facts that are perfectly
within their reach. He would propose that they
inquire into the state of America as it existed
fifty years ago, and that they then compare it
with its present condition. After they have struck
a balance between the two results, they can safely
be left to their own ruminations as to the proba-
bility of a people, as barbarous, as ignorant, and
as disorganized, as they have been accustomed to
consider the Americans, being very likely to work
such miracles. When they have honestly come to

XIV

PREFACE.

il;

1 1

;))•

a conclusion, it is possible they may be disposed
to give some credit to the contents of the follow-
ing pages.

It is not pretended that the actual names of the
individuals to whom these letters are addressed
are given in the text. It is hoped that eight or
ten single gentlemen can meet once in three years
in a club, and that they can pass the intermediate
time in journeying about the world, occasionally
publishing a few ideas on what they have seen,,
without being reduced to the necessity of doing
so much violence to their modesty as to call each
other unequivocally by their proper appellations.
Had they been disposed to lives of free comment
and criticism, it is more than probable that they

would have all been married men these

years.

One more word on the subject-matter of these
pages, and the writer will then commit them to the
judgment of his readers without further comment.
In producing a work on the United States, the
truth was to be dealt with fearlessly, or the task
had better have been let alone. In such a coun-
try, existing facts are, however, of consequence
only as they are likely to affect the future. It is
of little moment to know that so many houses are
in a town, or so many straw beds in such a house,
when premises are at hand to demonstrate clearly,
that in a year or two the roofs of the city will be
doubled, and the inmates of the dwelling will

PREFACE.

repose on down. The highest compliment that
is, or that can be, paid to the people of the United
States, is paid by writers, who are evidently
guilty of their politeness under any other state of
feeling than that of complacency. The English-
man, for instance (he is quoted, because the most
industrious in the pursuit), lands in America, and
he immediately commences the work of compari-
son between the republics and his own country.
He is careful enough to avoid all those topics
which might produce an unfavourable result (and
they are sufficiently numerous), but he instantly
seizes on some unfortunate tavern, or highway, or
church, or theatre, or something else of the kind,
which he puts in glaring contrast with, not the
worst, nor the middling, but the best similar
object in his own country. Really there must be
something extraordinary in a people, who, having
had so much to do, and so very short a time to
do it in, have already become the subjects, not
only of envy, but of a seemingly formidable
rivalry, to one of the oldest and wealthiest nations
of Europe! It strikes the writer, that, while
these gentlemen are so industriously struggling
to prove the existence of some petty object of
spleen, they prove a great moral truth in favour
of America. What should we think of the boy
whose intellect, and labours, and intelligence,
were drawn into bold and invidious comparison
with those of aged and experienced men !

XVI

PKEFACr.

iV.

The writer has said very little on the subject of
the ordinary vices of mankind ; for he has hopnd
that no one will read his book, who has yet to
learn that they exist everywhere. If any one
supposes that he wishes to paint the people of
America as existing in a state superior to human
passion, free from all uncharitableness and guile,
he takes the liberty to assure him he will fall into
an egregious blunder. He has not yet met with
such an elysium in his travels.

If the bile of any one shall be stirred by the
anticipations in which the writer has indulged in
favour of the United States of America, he will
be sorry ; but as he cannot see how the truth is
to be affected, or the fortunes of a great people
materially varied, by the dissatisfaction of this or
that individual, he has thought it safest for his
own reputation to say what he thinks, without
taking the pains to ascertain to how many it may
be agreeable, or to how many disagreeable. He
has avoided personalities, and that, as a traveller,
is all he feels bound to do, and hopes he shall
always do ; for he is not of that impertinent class
of persons, who think the world cannot be suffi-
ciently enlightened without invading the sacred
precincts of private life.

ill

CONTENTS

THE FIRST VOLUME.

LETTER L

To Sir Frederic Waller.

Apology — Meeting with a Travelling Companion — A
Travelling Arrangement — English Works on Ame-
rica— An Honest Traveller — Opinions of nn Ameri-
can • • • • •

LETTER IL

To the Baron Von Kemperfelt.

American Packets — Ships' Cookery — American Com-
merce — American Navigation — Effects of the
Navigation Laws — Disposition to the Sea — First
View of Land . • . .

LETTER III.

To the Same.

Blunders of Europeans — Extravagant Expectations —
First Appearance of the Coast— Asking for News —
Haihng for News — Conjectures — The Pilot — La
Fayette — Interest of the Americans — Speculations —
Young American Girl — Suspicion — American Cus-
toms— Reasons for Familiarity of Intercourse — The
little Isabel — Great Confidence — Leaving the Ship —
Deference to Females — Fortifications — Raritan Bay
—Trait of Character — New York Harbour — Climate
and Scenery — The subdued Manner of the Ameri-
cans — The Tie between La Fayette and the
VOL. I. b

Page

1 to 8

9—22

I i

li'l i

XVlll

CONTENTS.

United States — America and La Fayette — Interest
in La Fayette — Feelings of the Children in his
Favour — His Fame ....

LETTER IV.

To the Same.

Prejudices against La Fayette — A better Feeling gaining
ground — Procession of Steam-boats — Entrance into
the American World — Exculpation of the French —
Vice President — Approach of La Fayette — His recep-
tion— Movement towards the Town — Manner of
Approach — Arrival at New York — Castle Garden —
Battery— The little Isabel— The City Hotel— Ex-
penses, Accommodations, &c. — La Fayette .

LETTER V.

To Sir Edward Waller, Bart.

Route through part of New England — Character of the
Country visited — Explanation of the term "Yankee"
— Pride in the Appellation — Great Harmony between
the People— Rate of Population to the Square Mile —
Deceptive Appearance of Population — Reasons for
this Appearance — A^^pearance of the Country —
Wood, Fertility of Spots, &c. — Maize — New England
Villages — Nature of the Scenery — A New England
Landscape — Intercourse with the People — English
Travellers — How situated in America — New England
Innkeepers — Character, Situation in Life, &c. — Dif-
ference between them — Feelings which govern
Intercourse — Advice to Travellers — Anecdote

LETTER VI.

To the Same.

Mode of Trave'ling — Island of Manhattan — The Manner
in which the High Ways are maintained — Reasons
why they are not always direct— Ent ranee of Connec-

Pagc

22—54

54—69

69—91

•'li

•■■"?

CONTENTS.

XIX

Page

-54

-69

Page

ticut Borders— Exemptions from Visits of the Police
— Connection of the different States — Passage of a
State Frontier^ — American Statesmen of the Revolution
— John Jay — His Services and present Retirement —
Anecdote of the Treaty of 1783 — Franklin — Decision
of the American Commissioner— Offices held by Mr.
Jay, &c. — Official Rank no certain Evidence — Reasons
why it should not — Mistake in judging American
Manners— Government and Society unconnected —
American Colonels and City Warriors — Opinions of
a Veteran who kept an Inn — On the utility of Stand-
ing Armies — The Dwelling of Mr. Jay — ^Armorial
Bearings, Liveries, &c. — Huguenots — French Names
— Remains of French Taste in a Farmer — Simple and
Dignified Habits of Mr. Jay — Notions of the Employ-
ment of Mr. Jay— Odd Faculty in Zerah Colburne 92—120

LETT^.R VII.

To the Same.

Htv. England — Geographical Limits, &c. — People of
New England — Schools — Quality of Instruction —
Compared with France — Activity of Thought in
America — Reluctance of Europe to believe in Ameri-
can Order — Object of Government — Habits and Man-
ners of New England — Diffusive Intelligence — Omis-
sions of mos ; Travellers — Proportion of New England
Population- -Omission of Mr, Hodgson — Equality of
Condition and its Effects — Gross Caricature of their
Manners — ^Proverbial Curiosity of the People — Pecu-
liar Courtesy of the Inhabitants — Situation of the
Women — Devotion to their Families — Retirement
from the World — Influence of Women in Society —
More Women than Men in New England — Influence
ofGeneral Intelligence — Effectsof General Intelligence
— Peculiar Merit of New England — La Fayette —
The Manner of his Journey . . . 120—117

CONTENTS.

f •-

LETTER VIII.

To the Baron Von Kemperfelt.

New York — What it should have been — The Bays
around New York — Harbour, Anchor^e, &c. —
Hudson at New York— Wharfs — Yellow Fever but
little Dreaded— Fever of 1819 and 1821— Infected
Districts — Means of Prevention — Instance of Con-
tracting the Disease — Theories concerning the
Fever — Facts concerning it — Theories — Animal-
culaj said to be the Cause — Character of New
York for Health — New York a clean Town — Sur-
rounding Communication by Water — Rivalry to con-
tend with — Increase and Consequences of Success
^Character of Population — Growth — Increase —
Reasons for a Variation — Estimates of Future Size —
American Anticipations — Immense Interior Trade —
Mr. Clinton — Great Canals — A Case — Justification of
Future Expectations — Houses, their Modern Construc-
tion— Peculiarity of Appearance — Public Buildings —
City Hall — Materials for Building — Churches — Liber-
ality of Religious Sects— Churches, Taste, Religion —
Apparent Attention to Religion

LETTER IX.

To the Count Jules de Bethixy.

Population of New York — Influence of the Yankees —
Markets — Fish, Fowl, Game, &c. — Fruits, Sweetness
of the Herbage — Influence of the Sun on the Plants —
Delicacy of Melons and Peaches — ^Argument of Cad-
wallader — Peculiarity of Climate, Apples, &c. — Style
of Living — English Comfort — Condition of the People
— Poor Foreigners, Anecdote, Neatness — Brilliancy
of the Climate — Furnishing of Houses — Description
of a Private Residence — Neatness, Inconveniences, &e.
Manner of finishing Furniture— Defects— Bad Taste

pHgc

147—179

CONTENTS.

XXI

PilgC

-179

—Effects of a Clear Atmosphere— Mode of Ruild-
ing — Comparison with other Dw 'llin^js — Shops,
compared with French Houses — Reasons for the
Intermediate Taste — Equipages, compared with
European — Effects of Habit on the Taste .

LETTER X.

To the Same.

Manners of Amei an Society — Less artificial than in
Europe — Itifluonce of Fashion — Less despotic here —
Influence of Talents, Money and Birth — How far Birth
is respected — Reasons for the same — Morals necessary
to Influence — Luxuries quite common — Anecdote of a
Farmer — Armorial Bearings — Aristocratic Usages dis-
appearing— Instances of Succession to Office — Society
of New York — Influence of Merchants — Remains of
Colonial Aristocracy — Coldness of Manner — Anec-
dote to exemplify it — Reasons for the same — Effect
of Religious Dogmas — Coldness of Manners accounted
for .

LETTER XL

To the Same.

Attachment of the Americans to La Fayette — Anecdotes
— La Fayette's Return from Boston — Arrangements
for the Fete — Order in Society without Precedency—
The Castle Garden Fete — Description of the Salle —
Immense Assembly, Appearance, &c. — Entrance and
Reception of La Fayette — Nature of the Company —
All Classes met together — Area of the Castle, Bay and
Scene — Reflections — A Bachelor's Confessions — De-
portment of American Females — Disinterestedness of
Marriages — Costume of the Labouring Classes — The
Attire of Females — Manners of the Women — Beauty
of the Girls — Early fading of the Women — Not so ge-
neral as believed — Communication between the un-

Page

180—205

204—237

XXII

COxNTJiNTS.

h '!

1 !

married — Rarely abused, and Reasons wliy — Ha-
bits of an American Ciirl — Reserve and Simplicity of
the Women — Peculiar Reserve in Conversation — Cus-
toms of different Countries — Prr is used in the
Upper Classes — Confidinc: Fractic<j of the Country —
Rarely abused — Finingsof a Bachelor

LETTER XII.

To the Same.

Departure from New York for the Interior — Spontaneous
Tiibutes to La Fayette — Departure for Albany — Hud-
son River — Morning — River compared to others —
Description of the Hudson — Second Division of the
Scenery — Highlands — West Point — Third Division of
the River — Importance of the Highland Port — A Fa-
vourite Scheme of the War of 1776 — Reasons against
its Success — Attempt to Betray the American Cause —
Andre— Manner of his Capture — Want of Presence of
Mind — Opportune Arrival of Washington — Extraor-
dinary Coolness of Arnold — His successful and
narrow Escape — Want of Suspicion in Washington
— Manner of learning the Truth — Terror of Mrs.
Arnold — Confidence — Treason confined to Arnold^
Impudent Letter of Arnold — Mrs. Arnold — Situation
of Andre — Opinion of Andre's Enterprise — Reasons
against it — Motives for his Punishment — Firmness of
the Americans — Admirable Candour of Andre — His
Noble Conduct and Disappointment — His Death —
Conduct of Washington — Military Academy . ,

LETTER XIII.

To the Same.

Wars of the United States — Physical Force of the Men —
Militia — Its Character — A Comparison — Execution
at Bunker's-hill — Losses of Waterloo and Bunker's-
hill — Reasons for Aptitude of the People — Quality

Page

237—267

267—299

CONTENTS.

XXIll

Page

-2f)7

299

of Troops when disciplined— A Reference to former
Battles — Present Disposition of the Country — Esti-
mate of the Forces in 1777 — An Outline of the War
of 1 776 — Force to subdue the Colonies — Bad Policy
pursued in 1812— Outline of the War of 1812—
Military Power of the Country — The Regular Army,
&c. — Influence of general Intelligence — The Balance
of I'ower — Free People most difficult to conquer —
Present Military Condition of the United States — Re-
sources— Sensitiveness of the Population — '»ueir pre-
sent Attitude — America a peaceful Country

LETTER XIV.
To Sir Edward Waller, Bart.

Description of a Tour Westward— Note of the Popula-
tion in Three States — General Air of this Portion of
Country — Habits of Settlers — European Blunders-
Savages unknown in the Older Parts- The Progress
of a Settlement — Mixture of Civilization with Nature
— Disappearance of the Wild Beasts — An American
Inland View — Minute Objects contained in it — Ex-
tent and Character of it — Associations of an
American Scene — Progress of the Settlements — A
Prospect for the Future — Cherry Valley — when a
Frontier Tovm — Cooperstovvn — Rate of Population —
Descriptions in the *' Pioneers" — Peculiarities of the
Scenery — Mode of clearing Land— Fresh Appearance
of the Country ...

LETTER XV.

To the Same.

Manner of Elections — Form of Town Meetings — their
Power — Proceedings at a Town Meeting — Board of
Supervisors, with its Power — Electoral Districts —
Members of Congress, how chcjn — Manner of Bal-
loting— Mr. Clinton avenged by the People— Univer-

Pige

299—323

323—343

:,;''

t' !

XXIV

COXTEN'TS.

sal Suflfrage— Representation of Property— Natural
Principles of Government — Effects of an Extended
Suffrage — Causes of American Economy — General
Order of the Elections — Extended Corruption impos-
sible— The Americans and Reformers — The Ame-
ricans invite Change — Perfect Freedom of Discussion
— Obstinacy of the Americans

LKTTKR XVI.

To the Same.
Population of the Northern States — Population favour-
able to Liberty — An Argument in the Club — Differ-
ence in Opinions — Shades in reasoning — Unanimity
— A Reply — The Opinion of a Statesman — Reasons
for his Opinion — A false Idea — Prejudice — Perpetuity
of the Institutions — Common Schools — Statistics of
New York — The Blacks — Decrease of the Free
Blacks — American Exaggeration — European Igno-
rance -Truth of Public Documents — Excessive
Credulity and Incredulity . . •

LETTER XVII.

To the Same.

Leaves New York for the South — Abundance on the
Table — Quality of the Inns — Manner of Travelling —
Classification of the Travellers — A Sailor Coachman
—Admixture of Employments — A good American
Inn — Its Comforts and Cheapness — Good Inns not
unfrequent — Second only to English Inns — Joseph
Bonaparte — Habits of the Ex-King— Napoleon in
America — Philadelphia — Public Buildings — Bank of
the United States — A manufacturing City — Route by
the Interior — Immense Bridges — Character of the
Population — Proportion of the English — Entrance of
a Slave State — Baltimore — Attempt of the English-
Ends in a Skirmish — Residence at Baltimore

Notes .....

Pig.*

344—363

364—390

390—415
417

! 1

r;3

P«r

LETTERS,

TO SIR FRKDKIUC WALLER, RART

OK SOMKIIKKTSIIIRK, KNGLANI).

« • ,7a

.415
417

Liverpool, England, July 22d, 1R24.

Dear Waller,
You are to express no astonishment at the
place where this letter is dated. I confess the
engagement to meet you under the walls of the
Seraglio ; but hear me, before the sin of forgetful-
ness shall be too hastily imputed to my charge.
You know the inveterate peregrinating habits of
the club, and can judge, from your own besetting
propensity to change your residence monthly,
how difficult it might prove to resist the tempta-
tion of traversing a soil that is sti'«' virgin, so far
as the perambulating feet of the members of our

VOL. J.

I II

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2 APOLOGY.

fraternity are concerned. In a word, I am here,
awaiting the packet for America. Before you
get this letter, the waters of one half of the
Atlantic will roll between us. This resolution,
seemingly so sudden, has not, however, been
taken without much and mature thought.

Cosmopolites, and searchers of the truth, as we
boast ourselves, who, of all our number, has ever
turned his steps towards a quarter (I had almost
written half) of the globe, where new scenes, a state
of society without a parallel, even in history, and so
much that is fresh, both in the physical and moral
world, invite our attention. This reproach shall
exist no longer. If resentment against so much
apparent fickleness can refrain the while, read,
and you shall know the reasons why you are left
to wander, alone, through the streets of Pera, and
to endure sullen looks, from haughty Turks, with-
out the promised support of your infidel com-
panion.

On the road between Moscow and Warsaw, I
encountered a traveller from the States of North
America. He was about to end a long pilgrimage
in Europe, Asia, and Africa, and to return, eager
as a discharged Swiss, to the haunts of his youth,
in the other hemisphere. He appeared like one
who was wearied with the selfishness, struggles,
and tactitious distinctions of our eastern regions.
Truly, there was something so naif, and yet so in-
structed— so much that was intellectual, and

.MEETING AVITH A TRAVELLING COMPANION. 3

es,

Dns.

in-

withal so simple — a little that was proud, blended
with something philosophical, in the temperament
and manner of this western voyager, that he came
over my fancy with the freshness of those even-
ing breezes, for which you will be shortly pant-
ing, on the shores of the Dardanelles. To be
serious, he is an educated and a gifted man, with a
simplicity of thought, as well as of deportment,
that acted like a charm on my exhausted feelings.
You are not to suppose that, at fifty, J have fallen
into the errors of five-and-twenty, and, that I am
about to become, again, a convert to thrice-worn-
out opinions, new vamped, under the imposing
name of philosophy. The word has never escaped
the lips of Cadwallader (for so is my new acquaint-
ance called), even in the gravest of his moods.

An evening, passed in the company of this
American, at a miserable post-house on the fron-
tiers of Poland, only furnished a zest for the week
in which it was agreed we should travel together.
At the end of that week, my resolution was taken.
I had heard so much to excite curiosity — so much
to awaken thought, in channels entirely new, that
nothing short of a voyage across the Atlantic, can
appease my longings.

Neither are you to be too hasty in believing,
that my companion has been soothing my ears with
Arabian imagery. Nothing can be farther from
the truth. He is saturnine by nature, and, a
Frenchman might add, taciturn to a fault. From

B 2

; I-

4 A TRAVELLING ARRANGEMENT.

a certain expression of melancholy, that often
overshadows his countenance, I should think he
had long been familiar with regrets, which, from
their nature, must be unceasing. Still, I find
great equanimity of temper, and the same calm,
deliberative manner of considering things, as if he
deemed himself already removed from most of the
great and moving interests of the world. Perhaps
these peculiar and individual qualities, in some
measure, quickened the desire I felt to examine
his country. I would give much, to know his
private history; but I never before associated with
one who was, at the same time, so communicative
and, yet, so reserved.

In short, I found this calm, reasoning Ameri-
can so fresh, so original in his way of . treating
things, which long use had rendered, to my ima-
gination, fixed and unalterable as the laws of
nature themselves, and so direct in the applica-
tion of all his opinions to the practices of the world,
that I early became alive to the desire of examin-
ing a slate of society, which, I am fond of believing,
must have had some influence in giving birth to so
much independence and manliness of thought.

Before we had reached the Rhine, it was
arranged between us, that we should cross the
ocean together ; and Cadwallader promised me his
assistance and advice, in making the preparations
that might be necessary, to render the journey
both convenient and profitable.

ENGLISH M'OUKS ON AMKKICA.

was
the
his
ons

You will readily imagine, that, with the inten-
tion of passing a year or two in the republics of
North America, my curiosity to investigate their
history and institutions has not been suffered to
slumber. While in London, no opportunity of
inquiring into the character of the people, or of
supplying myself with matter of proper prelimi-
nary study, was neglected. As I believed the
English must, of necessity, possess a better know-
ledge of their transatlantic kinsmen than any
other people in Europe, I was diligent in storing
my memory with such facts, gleaned from the
most approved authorities, as might aid and direct
my inquiries. By dint of extraordinary exertions,
I soon succeeded in collecting a little library of
travels, pamphlets, and political dissertations.
This collection was scrupulously kept a secret
until complete, when, anxious to impress my com-
panion with a favourable opinion of my earnest-
ness in the research, an early opportunity was
taken to lay the result before him, in the shape of
a handsome display on the shelves of a book-
case. Cadwallader run his eye coolly over the
titles, and, after saying a few words in commen-
dation of my zeal, he appeared disposed to leave
me to the quiet enjoyment of my acquisitions.
I was struck with the singular air of indifference,
to give it no harsher term, with which he regarded
the fruits of my hard labour, and was not slow to
ascribe it to the fact, that I had omitted those

ENGLISH WORKS ON AMERICA.

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works of native origin, which treated on the same
subject. In order to remove any unfavourable
impressions on this point, something was muttered
concerning regrets at not being able to procure
American books at such a distance from the place
where they were printed, with an intimation, that
on our arrival at New York, my travelling library
would of course be completed. Still no sign of
interest was elicited from the cold eye of my
companion. He left me with another compliment
to my industry, which, I am obliged to confess,
was pointed with so much supererogatory cour-
tesy, as to savour a little of sarcasm. Nothing
daunted, however, by this silent but intelligible
criticism, no time was lost in turning the new
acquisitions to a profitable account. Our stay in
London was unavoidably prolonged to three
weeks, and by the expiration of that time I had
travelled over no small portion of the American
territory, again and again, on pap^r, and at rates,
too, that would not have done discredit t^ the
time-saving authors of the books themselves. In
short, the opinions of some six or seven English
commentators on American society and morals,
were devoured so very greedily, as to leave little
or no leisure for a proper digestion of the know-
ledge they imparted. But, once possessed of
sufficient matter for reflection, a voyage of three
thousand miles will aflbrd abundant leisure for
rumination and digestion.

■ill

AX HONEST TRAVELLEH.

Our arrival at this place had been so timed, as
to precede the departure of the packet by a few
days. The intervening period has given us an
opportunity to complete the most minute of our
arrangements, among which I have ever kept in
view the important object of acquiring that infor-
mation which may be useful in my contemplated
journey by land. A Liverpool banker, to whom
I had early spoken on the subject, placed in my
hands tv/o volumes of travels in America, written
by a merchant of this city, of the nama of Hodg-
son, in which he gave me reason to believe I
should find, mingled with a large portion of good
sense, far more liberality than it was usual to
meet in the works of his countrymen when writ-
ing on the subject of their republican relatives.
You are not to frown, dear Waller, when I add,
that even my own dulness had already been able
to detect, in the contents of most of my newly
acquired treasures, a certain distorted manner of
viewing and of pourtraying things, which struck
me as manifesting a remarkable attachment to
caricature. This amiable peculiarity may per-
haps furnish a sufficiently intelligible clue to the
small favour that the books seemed to enjoy in
the eyes of Cadwallader. Under the expectation
that the work of Mr. Hodgson would afford him
pleasure, I laid it on the table of my companion,

and begged that he would bestow on its perusal a
few of those hours for which I knew he had no

very urgent employment.

OPINIONS OK AN AM£RICAN.

':!':t

It was morning when he was put in possession
of the book, and the day was purposely permitted
to pass without any interruption from me. Late
at night, I entered his apartment, and found him
occupied in sealing a note directed to myself.
As this letter may be supposed to contain the
sentiments of an intelligent American on a subject
which may not be without its interest, I shall
freely copy it. It may possibly contain expres-
sions that are not quite in unison with the temper
of an Englishman ; but you, as a man of the
world, will know how to tolerate independence of
feeling, and are far too wise to neglect any
favourable opportunity of acquiring information
that may, in the couise of events, very speedily
become useful.

I may have misconceived your interest in this
note ; still it is curious, as containing the opinions
of a perfectly disinterested, and certainly an in-
structed American. It may also serve for a sort
of preface to my own disjointed correspondence,
the scattered fragments of which shall be collected
at our regular triennial meeting, when they may
possibly serve to enliven the gloom of a December
day in Paris.*

Forgive me, that I prefer the rising stars of the
Western Constellation to the waning moon of
your Turk. — Adieu.

* See nolo A, at end of the volume.

I i! lfl[

( 9 )

TO THE BARON VON KEMPERFELT,

CAPTAIN IN THE NAVY OF HIS NETHERLANDS MAJESTY.

At Sea, August, 1824.

As I know that Sir Edward has given you a
neetins: at Rome, I shall presume you acquainted
with the change in my plans, no less than with
the new travelling companion with whom accident
has made me acquainted. Of all our associates
I could gladly have chosen you, my dear baron,
for a co-adventurer in this distant excursion.
There is so much of the true maritime spirit in
the people I am about to visit, that your experi-
ence and observation would have proved both
useful and pleasant assistants to my own com-
parative ignorance. Still, I flatter myself that
a life of adventure, and fifty voyages by sea,
furnish some few of the qualifications necessary
for the task I have assumed.

Cadwallader took the direction of all our
arrangements into his own hands ; and well has
he discharged the trust. But the individual en-
terprise of the Americans has left very little of
this nature to be performed by the traveller.
Capacious, beautiful, and excellent ships, sail,
on stated days, between many of the European

AMKHICAN PACKETS.

f: (I

ports and their own country. This system of
arrangement, so important to commercial interests,
and so creditable to the efforts of a young state,
is said to be extended still further. Lines of
packets, as they are termed, also exist between
New York and the West Indies, South America,
and between most of the larger havens of their
own sea-board. They are not straightened, filthy,
inconvenient vessels, such as too often aspire to
convey passengers in Europe ; but ships that are
not only commodious to a degree I could not have
anticipated, but even gorgeous in many of their
ornaments and equipments. The sea, at the best,
to those who, like myself, fail of its true inspira-
tion, is but a desolate and weary abiding place ;
but, as much as possible, seems effected in this
ship towards lulling one into a forgetfulness of its
disagreeables. Should I venture to hazard a cri--
ticism on so delicate a subject, it would be to
say, that I do not think the utmost judgment is
manifested in the manner and nature of our food.
It is vain to expect the dainties of the land, in
any perfection, when a thousand miles from its
numberless facilities ; meats and poultries become
meagre and tasteless at sea, for want of room and
exercise ; and the cookery of a camboose, can
never equal that of a well-ordered and scientific
cuisine. There is a sort of coquetry about most
of your profession, which renders them ambitious
of demonstrating their perfect equality with the

SHIPS* COOKERY.

occupants of terra jirma. Like a beauty on the
decline, they would fain continue the charms of
other days and other scenes, when common sense,
which in these matters is taste, would teach them
that the fitness of things embraces time and
place. In the midst of sea sickness and nausea,
the stomach is not very craving for old acquaint-
ances, though it might be tempted by the instiga-
tion of novelties. On this principle, I think,
always with deep and reverential deference, that
you sailors, especially in passages that do not
exceed a month, should endeavour to purchase
your culinary renown by sea-pies and chowders,
and other dishes that are in good nautical keep-
ing, instead of emulating the savoury properties
of roast beef and poulets, in lame and tasteless
imitations. Enough, however, on a subject that a
landsman can never approach ; but he is sus-
pected of an intention of literally taking the
" bread out of your mouths."

At Liverpool I was struck with the number
of vessels that bore the American ensign. By
far the greater part of the immense trade which
exists between England and the United States,
is carried on from the t port ; and it was evident
to the senses, (a fact which inquiry has served
to corroborate), that an undue proportion, or
rather disproportion, of that trade, is conducted
under the flag of the latter country. No political
restrictions, to prevent a perfect reciprocity of

ARIEHICAN COMMLllCK.

commercial rights, being in existence, this simple
circumstance is almost enough, in itself, to esta-
blish the ability of the American, to compete
successfully with the Englishman, in navigation.
As the subject is replete with interest, and most
probably pregnant with facts that may much
sooner than is now dreamed of, effect a division (if
not a transfer) of the commerce, and conse-
quently of the wealth of the civilized world, most
of my time, during the passage, has been devoted
to its investigation. Cadwallader is not only well
supplied with documents, but he his rich in know-
ledge and experience on matters that relate
to his own country ; and, by his aid, there is some
reason to believe my industry on this occasion, at
least, has not been entirely thrown away. Worth-
less, or not, such as it is I shall offer its results,
with proper humility, to the inspection of your
professional criticism. To you, who are known to
indulge in such flattering views of the future, when
allusion is made to the ^ olden days of De Ruyter
and Van Tromp, the subject may have a charm
of its own.

The tendency to the sea, which the American
has manifested since the earliest of the colonial
establishments, is, no doubt, to be ascribed origi-
nally to the temper of his ancestors. Nothing can
be more absurd, however, than to argue, that
although peculiar circumstances drew him on the
ocean, during the continuance of the late and

AMF.RICAN NAVIOATIOX.

general hostilities, he will return to his fertile val-
lies, and vast prairies, now that competitors for the
profits of commerce and navigation are arising
among the former belligerents. The argument im-
plies an utter ignorance of history, no less than of
the character and sagacity of a people who are never
tardy to discover their individual interests. It is,
notwithstanding, often urged with so much per-
tinacity, as to savour much more of the conclusions
of what we hope for, than of what our reason
would teach us to believe. The fact is, there
never has been a period, since society was first
firmly organized in their country.when the Anglo-
Americans have not possessed a tonnage greater,
in proportion to their population and means, than
that of any other people, some of the small com-
mercial cities, perhaps, alone excepted. This was
true, even previously to their revolution, when the
mother country monopolized all of trade and in-
dustry that the temper of the colonies would bear,
and it is true now, to an extent of which you have
probably no suspicion. The present population of
the United States may be computed at 12,000,000,
while the amount of shipping materially exceeds
1,400,000 tons.* Assuming that amount, how-
ever, it gives one ton to every eight and a half of
the inhabitants. The tonnage of the British
empire is in round numbers, 2,500,000. This,

* On the 30th Dec. 1826, it had swelled to 1,534,000.

AMEHICAN NAVIGATION'.

divided among the 23,000,000 of the British
islands alone, would give but one ton to every
nine of the inhabitants. In this calculation the vast
difference in wealth is forgotten. But by the
British Empire, we are to understand Canada,
the West Indies, and all the vast possessions
which are tributary to the wealth and power of
that great nation. I know not whether the ship-
ping employed in the East Indies ought to be
enumerated in the amount named. If it is, you
will see the disproportion in favour of America is
enormous. But assuming that it is not, it becomes
necessary to add several millions for their other
dependencies. There is, however, still another
point of view in which this comparison should, with
strict justice, be made. A large proportion of the
people of the United States are so situated, that in
the nature of things they cannot turn much, if any,
of their attention to navigation. If the slaves
and the inhabitants of the new states, where the
establishments are still too infant, to admit of such
a development of their resources, be deducted
from the whole amount of the population, it will
not leave more than 7,000,000 of souls in posses-
sion of those districts in which navigation can be
supposed at all to exist. The latter, too, will in-
clude all those states that are called interior, where
time has not been given to effect any thing like
a natural division of the employments of men.
The result will shew, that the Americans, relatively

KFFF.rTS OK TIIF. NAVKiATION LAWS.

ir>

considered, are addicted to navigation, as com-
pared with Great Britain, in the proportion of more
than seven to five; nor has this commercial, or
rather maritime spirit arisen under auspices so en-
couraging as is generally imagined.

The navigation laws, adopted by the United
States, so soon as their present constitution went
into operation, are generally known. Their cft'ect
was to bring the shipping of the country into
instant competition with that of foreign nations,
from the state of temporary depression into which
it had been thrown by the struggle of the Revolu-
tion. From that hour, the superiority enjoyed by the
American, in cheapn*^^ ss of construction, provisions
and naval stores, aided by the unrivalled activity,
and practical knowledge of the population, put all
foreign competition at defiance. Of 60G,000 tons
of shipping employed in 1790, in the foreign trade
of the country, not less than 251,000 tons were
the property of strangers. In 1794, while the trade
employed 611,000 tons, but 84,000 tons were
owned by foreigners. In 1820 (a year of great
depression), the trade gave occupation to 880,000
tons, of which no more than 79,000 tons were
foreign property. This estimate, however, includes
the intercourse with the least, no less than that
with the most m?.ritime nation. The trade between
the United States and England, which is the most
important of all, in respect of the tonnage it em-
ploys, was about three to one, in favour of the

Ill

DISPOSITION TO THE SEA.

former ; with other countries it varies according to
the maritime character of the people, but with all
and each it is altogether in favour of the United
States.

Now, one would think these simple facts, which
have withstood the tests of colonial policy, and of
political independence ; of peace and of war ; of a
fair and of a specious neutrality ; of open violence
and of self-imposed restrictions, for more than a
century, might be deemed conclusive of the
ability no less than of the disposition of the Ame-
ricans to continue what they now are — a people
more maritime in their habits and pursuits, com-
pared with their numbers, than any that exist, or
who have ever gone before them. Still there are
real or pretended sceptics. It is contended that
a continental nation, possessed of territories so
vast, and which are peopled by so spare a popula-
tion, cannot continue in pursuits to which nature
and interest present so many obstacles. The
proposition is something, as if one should say,
Russia is a country of extensive territory, that is
but thinly peopled, and so is America. Now, as
Russia is not, neither therefore can America be
maritime. Nor are the arguments by which this
singular proposition is supported, less absurd than
the position itself. Notwithstanding the obsti-
nate, glaring, and long continued fact, that the
American has and does neglect the tillage of his
virgin forests, in order to seek more congenial

DfSPOSlTION TO THE SKA.

be
I this
than
►sti-
the
his
Inial

sources of wealth on the ocean, one hears it
hotly contended every day, that this state of
things has been created by adventitious circum-
stances, and must cease as the influence of those
circumstances ceases, and that of others shall come
into action. You are told that America has such
an interior of fertile plains as belongs to few
nations ; but you are not reminded by these
partizans, that she also possesses such an extent
of coast, such rivers, such bays, and such a
number of spacious and commodious havens as are
the property of no other people. If, in reply, you
venture to say that as England, for so long a time
the most commercial and maritime nation of the
world, is indebted to her civil and religious
liberty for the character of industry and enterprise
that she has so well earned, so must America,
possessing these inestimable blessings in a still
greater degree, arrive at a still greater degree of
commercial and maritime prosperity, the answer is
ready. England is an island, and she has an over-
flowing population. Java and Japan, Ceylon and
Madagascar, Sicily and Zealand, and hundreds of
others, are just as much islands as Great Britain.
It is therefore clear, something more than a mere
insular situation is necessary to induce a people
to become maritime, since there is a superabun-
dance of population in all the islands just named.
England herself was not eminently maritime until
the reign of Elizabeth, when the influence of

VOL. I. c

'^\

DISPOSITION TO TlIF, SEA.

that civil and religious liberty which has made her
what she is, began to be felt fairly and generally in
the realm. So late as the reign of Henry VII., the
" world-seeking Genoese," was compelled to
find a patroness to his mighty enterprise in the
queen of an interior province of the Spanish Pe-
ninsula ! Though Turkey in Europe is not actually
washed by the water on every side, still there are
few countries (including Greece,) that possess so
many natural advantages for commerce and navi-
gation. That her flag is not now seen in every
sea, is to be ascribed more to the mental darkness
which envelopes her empire, than to the imma-
terial fact that nature has forgotten to run a
streight between the Euxine and the Adriatic.
France lies on two seas, and has long enjoyed the
advantages of science and great intelligence ; and
yet France, considered with reference to her civi-
lization and resources, is but a secondary power in
respect to commerce and navigation. If she has
had fleets, they have not been the healthful and
vigorous offspring of her trade, but were main-
tained, as they were created, by the more sickly
efforts of political care. Does any man believe,
were the Pyrenees and Alps another channel,
that the condition of France, in this particular,
would be materially altered ? The talents, and
science, and enterprise of France, have hitherto
been mainly pressed into the employment of the
government. In whatever they have arrived at

■-■•??■

DISPOSITION TO THK SEA.

eher
lly in
., the
Bd to
in the
hPe-
tually
ire are
ess so
1 navi-
every
rkness
imma-
run a
driatic.
^ed the
e; and
er civi-
Dwer in
he has
■ul and
main-
sicklv
)elieve,
annel,
icular,
s, and
itherto
of the
ved at

perfection, they have been concentrated in order
to consolidate the power of the state, instead of
being dispersed to effect that vast accumulation of
individual prosperity which constitutes the real
wealth of nations. Precisely as the situation of
England offers an excepticvi to this general rule,
just in that degree has there been a misapplication
also of her advantages. In the one instance, a
mighty aristocracy has been created ; in the other,
as mighty a despotism. The latter country has
now become constitutional; and though she has
to contend against long and inveterate habits, a
national temperament created by those habits,
and many of the obstacles of what may almost be
termed, in this respect, an infant condition, I
think it will be found that she will become more
commercial, and consequently more maritime,
precisely as her institutions become more free.
The secret of all enterprise and energy exists in
the principle of individuality. Wealth does not
more infallibly beget wealth, than the right to the
exercise of our faculties begets the desire to use
them. The slave is every where indolent, vicious,
and abject; the freeman active, moral, and bold.
It would seem that is the best and safest, and,
consequently, the wisest government, which is
content rather to protect than direct the national
prosperity, since the latter system never fails to
impede the efforts of that individuality which
makes men industrious and enterprising. As all

c 2

~"!*X

DISPOSITION TO THE SF.A.

questions of politics are, however, so perfectly
practical, I well know that in deciding on particu-
lar governments, they should ever be considered
with direct reference to the varied conditions into
which abuse, accident, or wisdom has cast the
different communities of the world. But, if one
can be fcand so favoured by its physical advan-
tages, so fortified by its moral and intellectual
superiority, as to enable it to leave man to the
freest and noblest exercise of his energies and
will, is it wise, or is it even safe, to deny, merely
because they are vast, the very results which are
admitted to be produced, in a lesser degree, by a
state of things in which the same operating
causes are found to exist under more limited modi-
fications ? Herein, as it appears to me, is to be
traced the real motive of that glaring unwillingness
to allow the natural effects of the unprecedented
liberty of America, which one must be blind not
to see, has taken so deep root in the feelings of
most of our eastern politicians. The American
himself, familiar with the changes and improve-
ments of his own time, big with the spirit that
has wrought them, and filled with the noblest
and most manly anticipations for the future, is
derided because he cannot bring his wishes to tho
level of the snail-paced and unnatural progress
of European society. I say unnatural, because
power, or necessity, if you will, has so heavily
cumbered it with artificial restrictions. I have

L'S POSITION TO THE SEA.

fectlv
rticu-
dered
s into
3t the
if one
idvan-
ectual
to the
2s and
Tierely
ich are
3, by a
grating
I modi-
s to be
ngness
dented
nd not
ngs of
lerican
prove-
it that
Qoblest
ure, is
to the;
ogress
)ecause
heavily
I have

had leisure for some thought, dear Baron, on this
subject. I fear it is a theme that is disposed of
with too little ceremony by most of us who dwell
in the ancient hemisphere. Europe, with all her
boasted intelligence, has not even the merit of
foreseeing results that only become apparent as
they force themselves on her unwilling notice.
For one, I am determined, in "ly own poor person,
to profit a. much as may be by the situation into
which I have been accidentally thrown. Not-
withstanding I am already deeply impressed with
the opinion that America is to be the first mari-
time nation of the earth, it would be unpardonable
ignorance to deny that the great causes which are
likely to induce this division, if not transfer, of
commercial ascendancy, are liable to many quali-
fying and counteracting obstacles. Most of these
minor circumstances were either beyond the in-
vestigations of a stranger, or it exceeded my
knowledge of American history, to estimate the
extent of their influence. With a view to throw
as much light as possible on the inquiry, I have
addressed a few questions to my travelling com-
panion, and have received his answers, which are
transcribed for your benefit. If they are coloured
by national partialities, a mun of your age and
experience ought to be able to detect them;
and if, on the other hand, they are just and rea-
sonable, it is due to ourselves and the truth, to
admit their force. You will at once perceive, that,

LAND.

in putting my queries, I have been governed by
those points which one hears pressed the most
when the European is willing to turn his eyes
from the contemplation of more interesting, be-
cause more familiar, objects, in order to inquire
into the new order c^ things, that is almost in-
sensibly, though so rapidly, working a change
in the comparative conditions of the different
states of Christendom. You will find my queries,
with their answers, inclosed.* Neither our situa-
tion nor inclinations admitted that the one or the
other should be very elaborate.

There is a cry of land, and I must hasten on
deck to revel in the cheerful sight. Adieu.

IV 1 I ;
11 ■ '

II ¥:

I : ;i'i|

TO THE BARON VON KEMPERFELT,

New York, -

I THREW aside my pen abruptly, dear Baron,
in order to catch a first view of America. There
is something so imposing in the sound of the
word^ — continent, that I believe it had served to
lead me into a delusion, at which a little reflection
has induced me to be the first to smile. My ideas
of this remote and little known moiety of the

* See note B, at end of the volume.

BLUXUKHS OK KL'ROJ'EANS.

ed by
most

eyes
be-

nquire
Dst in-
hange
flferent
Lieries,
situa-
or the

ten on

3aron,
There
of the
ved to
lection
\f ideas
of the

world, have ever been so vague and general,
that I confess the folly of having expected to see
the land make its appearance en masse, and with
a dignity worthy of its imposing name. The
mind has been so long accustomed to divide the
rest of the globe into parts, and to think of them
in their several divisions of countries and pro-
vinces, that one expects to see no more of each,
at a coup (fa'tl, than what the sight can embrace.*
Now, ridiculous as it may seem, I had, unac-
countably, imbibed the impression that America
was to appear, at the first glance, larger to the

* The Americans say, it is a common and absurd blunder of the
European to blend all his images of America in one confused
whole. Thus one talks of the climate of America! of the soil of
America ! and even of the people and manners of America !
(meaning always the continent too, and not the United States.) No
doubt there are thousands who know better; but still there is a
good deal of truth in the charge. The writer was frequently
amused, during his voyage, by hearing the passengers (mostly
Americans) relate the ridiculous mistakes that have been made by
Europeans, otherwise well informed, when conversing on tha sub-
ject of the trans-atlantic continent. Countries which lie on different
sides of the equator, are strangely brought in contact, and people,
between whom there is little affinity of manners, religion, govern-
ment, language, or, indeed, of any thing else, are strangely blended
in one and the same image. It would seem to be an every day
occurrence, for Americans to have inquiries made concerning indi-
viduals, estates, or events which exist, or have had an existence,
at some two or three thousand miles from their own places of resi-
dence, just as if the Dane should be expected to answer interroga-
.tories concerning the condition of a farm situate on the Po !

EXTRAVAGANT EXPECTATIONS.

Ill

senses than the little island I had left behind me.
You are at perfect liberty to make yourself just as
merry as you please at this acknowledgment ; but,
if the truth could be fairly sifted, I have no
doubt it would be found that most European
adventurers, who seek these western regions, have
formed expectations of its physical or moral
attributes, quite as extravagant as was my own
unfortunate image of its presence. I have taken
the disappointment as a salutary admonition, that
a traveller has no right to draw these visionary
scenes, and then quarrel with the people he has
come to visit, because he tinds that he has seen fit
to throw into a strong light, those parts which
nature has every where been pleased to keep in
shadow; or to colour highest the moral properties,
which the same wise dame has sagaciously kept
down, in order that those qualities, which it has
been her greatest delight to lavish on man, may
for ever stand the boldest and most prominent in
her own universal picture.

Instead of beholding, on reaching the deck,
some immense mountain, clad in a verdant dress
of luxurious and unknown vegetation, lifting its tall
head out of the sea, and imperiously frowning on
the sister element, my first view was of that same
monotonous waste with which my eyes had been
sat?d to weariness, during the last three weeks.
The eager question of " Where is America ?" was
answered by Cadwallader, who silently pointed to a

5 -..V

I'lUST APPEAUANCl!: OF THE COAST.

little, blue, cloud-like mound, tb'at rose above the
western horizon in three or four undulating swells,
and then fell away to the north and to the south,
losing itself in the water. I believe I should have
expressed my disappointment aloud, but for the
presence, and, more particularly, for the air of my
companion. His eye was riveted on the spot
with all the fondness of a child who is greeting
the countenance of a well-beloved parent. It
appeared to me that it penetrated far beyond those
little hills of blue, and that it was gifted with
power to roam over the broad vallies, vast lakes,
and thousand rivers of his native land. I fancied
that his philanthropic spirit was deeply enjoying
those scenes of domestic happiness, of a aiet, of
abundance, and of peace, which he has so often as-
sured me exist, beyond a parallel, within her bor-
ders. Perhaps a secret consciousness of my own
absurdity, came in season, also, to prevent so un-
fortunate an exposure of my high-wrought expec-
tations.

The season of the year, a soft, balmy, southerly
breeze, and the air from the land, however, were
all present to restore good humour. The little
hillocks soon swelled into modest mountains ; and
then a range of low, sandy, and certainly not in-
viting, coast, was gradually rising along the western
margin of the view. The sea was dotted with a
hundred sails, all of which were either receding
from, or approaching, a low point that was as yet

A.SKl\(i FOK NKWS.

scarcely visible, and which extended a few miles
to the northward of the high land already men-
tioned. Beyond, in that direction, nothing more
was as yet apparent, than the tame view of the
sea. Three or four small schooners were lying off
and on, under jib and mainsail, gliding about,
like so many marine birds soaring over their native
waters. From time to time, they threw pilots on
board of, or received them from, the different ships
that were quitting or entering the haven within
the Cape. On the whole, the scene was lively,
cheering, and, compared to the past, filled with
the most animating expectations.

It was not long before a beautiful little sloop, of
a formation and rig quite different from any I had
ever before seen, came skimming the waves
directly in our track. Her motion was swift and
graceful, and likely to bring us soon within speak-
ing distance. It was a fishing smack, out of which
the captain was disposed to obtain some of the
delicious bass that are said to abound on certain
banks that lie along this coast. We were disap-
pointed of our treat, for the fisherman answered
the signal by intimating that he had sold the last
of his stock, but the manoeuvres of the two vessels
brought us near enough to hail. ** Is there any
news ?" roared the captain, through his trumpet,
while we were gliding past each other, The
answer came against the breeze, and was nearly
indistinct. The words " Cadmus in," were, how-

!'■

llAlI.INCi FOK Nt.VV'S.

ever, affirmed by more than one eager listener, to
form part of the reply. Every body r.ow pressed
about our commander, to inquire who or what
was this Cadmus, and what he or she might be in ?
But the captain was not able to gratify our curi-
osity. Cadmus was the name of a ship in the
French trade, it seemed, and formed one in a line
of packets between Havre and New York, just as
our own vessel did between the latter port and Liver-
pool. ** It is not surprising that she should be
in,*' continued our honest commander, "for she
sailed on the 13th, whereas, we only got clear of
the land, as you well know,genUemen, on the 18th
of the same month ; a passage of one and twenty
days, at this season of the year, cannot be called a
bad one." As it was quite evident the ideas of
the worthy seaman M'ere in a channel very dif-
ferent from our own, we were fain to wait for some
more satisfactory means of arriving at the truth.
Another opportunity was not long wanting. A
large coasting schooner passed within two hun-
dred feet of us. A tar was standing on her
quarter-deck, both hands thrust into the bosom of
his sea-jacket, eyeing our ship with a certain un-
derstanding air that need not be explained to one
who claims himself to be so promising a child of
Neptune. This individual proved to be the mas-
ter of the coaster, and to him our captain again
roared ** Any news ?" " Ay, ay ; all alive up in
the bay," was the answer. The vessels were

COyjECTUIlES.

sweeping by each other with tantalizing rapidity,
and without paying the customary deference to
nautical etiquette, some six or seven of the pas-
sengers united in bawling out, as with one voice,
'* What news, what news?" The envious winds
again bore away the answer, of which no more
reached our ears than the same perplexing words
of ** Cadmus is in."

In the absence of all certainty, I ventured to
ask Cadwallader, whether an important election
had not just passed, in which some favourite name-
sake of the founder of Thebes had proved success-
ful. This surmise, however, was not treated with
any particular deference, and then we were left to
devise our own manner of explaining the little we
had heard by the aid of sheer invention.

In the mean time the ship was pressing steadily
towards her haven. The high land which, in
contra-distinction to the low, sandy beach, that
extends for hundreds of leagues along the coast
of this country, has obtained the name of ** Never-
sink," ceased to rise, and objects had become
distinct on its brown acclivity. A light-house on
the Cape was soon plainly visible, and a large buoy
was seen, heaving and setting with the unquiet
waters, to mark the proper entrance to a wide
bay, that stretched, farther than the eye could
reach, to the westward. Just without this rolling
beacon, lay a low, graceful, rakish, little schooner,
in waiting to give us a pilot. The wind was

THt I' I LOT.

'■ti

■~^

getting light, and there was no necessity to arrest
the progress of the ship to receive this welcome
harbinger of the comforts of the land. It may be
unnecessary to add, that we all pressed around
him, in a body, to attain the solution of our recent
doubts, and to hear the tidings of another hemi-
sphere.

I was struck with the singular air of exultation
with which this sturdy marine guide delivered
himself of the intelligence with which he was
evidently teeming. To the usual question, he
gave a quick answer, and in nearly the same
language as the seaman of the fishing-smack,
** Cadmus in," again rung in our ears, without
leaving us any wiser than before we had heard
the inexplicable words. " She has been long
enough from Havre, to be out again," retorted our
captain, with a dryness that savoured a little of
discontent. ** If you think so much of the arrival
of the Cadmus in thirty days, from France, what
will you say to that of my ship, in twenty-one,
from Liverpool?" "Your owners may be glad to see
you, but then, you've not got the old man aboard."
" We have them here of all ages : and, what is far
better, some of both sexes!" returned one of the
passengers, throwing a glance at the interested
features of a beautiful young creature, who was
eagerly listening to catch the syllables that should
first impart intelligence from her native country.
*' Ay, ay ; but you have no La Fayette in the

LA FAYFTTE.

ii i: t

ship.'' "La Fayette!" echoed, certainly every
American within hearing. " Is La Fayette ar-
rived ?" demanded Cadwallader, with the quick-
ness of lightning, and with an animation far
greater than I had ever given him credit for pos-
sessing. " That is he, safe and well. He has been
on the island with the vice-president since yester-
day. This morning he is to go up to town, where
he will find himself a welcome guest. The bay
abovp is alive," our guide concluded, jerking his
thumb over one shoulder, and looking as if he were
master of a secret of some importance. Here, then,
was a simple and brief explanation of the event
on which we had been exercising our faculties for
the last two hours. For myself, I confess, I was
disappointed, expecting little short of some revo-
lution in the politics of the state. But the effect
on most of my companions was as remarkable as
it was sudden. Cadwallader did not speak again
for many minutes. He walked apart; and I
saw, by his elevated head and proud step, that
the man was full of lofty and patriotic recollec-
tions. The eyes of the fair girl just mentioned,
were glistening, and her pretty lip was actually
quivering with emotion. A similar interest in
the event was manifested, in a greater or less
degree, by every individual in the ship, who
claimed the land we were approaching as the
country of his birth. The captain lost every
shade of discontent on the instant, and even the

::m

INTEREST OF THE AMERICANS.

native portion of the crew, suspended their labour
to listen to what was said, with a general air of
gratification and pride.

I will acknowledge, Baron, that I was touched
myself, at the common feeling thus betrayed by
so many differently constituted individuals ; and,
at so simple an occurrence. There was none of
that noisy acclamation with which the English
seamen are apt to welcome any grateful intelli-
gence, nor a single exaggerated exclamation, like
those which characterize the manners of most of
the continental nations of Europe, in their mani-
festations of pleasure.

It was not long ere Cadwallader had taken the
pilot apart, and was earnestly engaged in extract-
ing all the information he deemed necessary, on
a subject he found so interesting. I was soon
made acquainted with the result. It seems, that
after an absence of forty years. La Fayette had
returned to visit the land in which he had laid
the foundation of his fame. That he had reached
a country where hearts and arms would alike be
open to receive him, was sufficiently manifest
in the manner of all around me ; and I could not
but felicitate myself, in being so fortunate as
to have arrived at a moment likely to elicit some
of the stronger emotions of a people, who are
often accused of insensibility to all lively impres-
sions, and most of whose thoughts, like their time,
are said to be occupied in heedful considerations

T E

'(■■
f

?11

■

SPECULATIONS.

\h\

f iif
■

of the future. Here was, at least, an occasion
to awaken recollections of the past, and to elicit
something like a popular display of those gene-
rous qualities which constitute, what may not
improperly be called, the chivalry of nations.
It would be curious, also, to observe, how far
political management was mingled, in a perfect
democracy; with any demonstrations of pleasure
it might be thought expedient to exhibit, or in
what degree the true popular sentiment sympa-
thized with feelings that, in one section of the
earth, are, as you well know, not unfrequently
played off by the engines of governmental power.
I was not sorry, therefore, to listen to the plans
of my companion. A boat, in the employment of
the journals of the city, was by this time along-
side the ship, and having obtained the little news
we had to impart, it was about to return into the
haven, in order to anticipate the arrival of the
vessel, which was likely to be delayed for many
hours by a flat calm and an adverse tide. In this
boat it was proposed that we should take passage,
as far, at least, as the place where La Fayette had
made his temporary abode. The earnestness with
which Cadwallader pressed this plan, was not
likely to meet with any objections from me. Tired
of the ship, and eager to place my foot on the soil
of the western world, the proposal was no sooner
made than it was accepted. The boat was in-
stantly engaged for our exclusive benefit, and

YOUNG AMERICAN GIUL.

the
the

age,
had
with

not
ired

soil
oner
i in-

and

the necessary preparations made for our depar-
ture.

And now a little incident occurred, which, as
it manifests a marked difference in the manners,
and perhaps in the characters of those who inhabit
this republic, and the possessors of our own Eu-
rope, I shall take the liberty to introduce.

I have already mentioned a fair creature as being
among our passengers. She is of that age when,
in our eyes, the sex is most alluring, because we
know it to be the most innocent. I do not think her
years can much exceed seventeen. Happily, your
Belgic temperament is too mercurial to require a
tincture of romance to give interest to a simple
picture, in which delicacy, feminine beauty, and
the most commendable ingenuousness, were ad-
mirably mingled. Neither am I, albeit, past the
time of day-dreams, and wakeful nights, so utterly
insensible to the attractions of such a being, as to
have passed three weeks in her society, without
experiencing some portion of that manly interest
in her welfare, which, I fear, it has been my evil
fortune to have felt for too many of the syrens in
general, to permit a sufficient concentration of the
sentiment, in favour of any one in particular. £
had certainly not forgotten, during the passage, to
manifest a proper spirit of homage to the loveliness
of the sex, in the person of this young Americai*;
nor do I think that my manner failed to express
a prudent and saving degree of the admiration

VOL. I. D

"rtJi

FREEDOM FROM SUSPICION.

that was excited by her gentle, natural, and
nymph-like deportment, no less than by her
spirited and intelligent discourse. In short — but
you* were not born in Rotterdam, nor reared upon
the Zuy der Zee, to need a madrigal on such a
topic. The whole affair passed on the ocean,
and, as a nautical man, you will not fail to com-
prehend it. Notwithstanding I had made every
effort to appear, what you know I really am,
sufficiently amiable, during the voyage, and, not-
withstanding Cadwallader had not given himself
any particular trouble on the subject at all, it
was not to be denied that there was a marked dis-
tinction in the reception of our respective civilities,
and that, always in his favour. I confess that, for
a long time, I was disposed (in the entire absence
of all better reasons) to ascribe this preference to
an illiberal national prejudice. Still, it was only
by comparison that I had the smallest rational
grounds of complaint. But a peculiarly odious
quality attaches itself to comparisons of this na-
ture. There is a good deal of the Caesar in my
composition, as respects the sex ; unless I could
be first with the Houries, I believe I should be
willing to abandon Paradise itself, in order to seek
pre-eminence in some humbler sphere. I fear
this ambitious temperament has been our bane,
and has condemned us to the heartless and un-
social life we lead ! Our fair fellow passenger was
under the care of an aged and invalid grandfather,

'*'mt_

SUSPICION.

1, and
y her
t — but
I upon
such a
ocean,
0 com-
every
ly am,
d, not-
himself
all, it
:ed dis-
vilities,
hat, for
absence
-ence to
ras only
rational
odious
this na-
• in my
1 could
luld be
to seek
I fear
T bane,
ind un-

Iger was

Idfather,

who had been passing a few years in Italy, in pur-
suit of health. Now, it is not easy to imagine a
'more cuttingly polite communication, than that
which this vigilant old guardian permitted between
me and his youthful charge. If I approached,
her joyous, natural, and enticing (I will not, be-
cause a little piqued, deny the truth, Baron,)
merriment was instantly changed into the cold
and regulated ^^miles of artificial breeding. Nature
seemed banished at my footstep : and yet it was the
artlessness and irresistible attractions of those fas-
cinations, which so peculiarly denote the influence
of the "lighty dame, that were constantly tempt-
ing me to obtrude my withering presence on her
enjoyments. With Cadwallader, every thing was
reversed. In his society, she laughed without
ceasing ; chatted, disputed, was natural and happy.
To all this intercourse, the lynx-eyed grandfather
paid not the smallest attention. He merely
seemed pleased that his child had found an agree-
able, and an instructive companion ; while, on
the contrary, there existed so much of attractive-
ness in our respective systems, that it was im-
possible for me to approach the person of the
daughter, without producing a corresponding
proximity on the part of the parent.

Something nettled by a circumstance that, to
one who is sensible he is not as interesting as for-
merly, really began to grow a little personal, I
took occasion to joke Cadwallader on his superior

D 2

AMERICAN CUSTOMS.

happiness, and to felicitate myself on the probabi-
lity, that I might yet enjoy the honour of officiating",
in my character of a confirmed celibite, at his
nupti&'5. He heard me without surprise, and an-
swered me without emotion. " I thought the
circumstance could not long escape one so quick
sighted," he said. " You think I am better re-
ceived than yourself? The fact is indisputable ;
and, as the motive exists in customs that distin-
guish us, in a greater or 'ess degree, from every
other people, I will endeavour to account for it.
In no other country, is the same freedom of inter-
course between the unmarried of the two sexes,
permitted, as in America. In no other christian
country, is there more restraint imposed on the
communications between the married : in this par-
ticular, we reverse the usages of all other civilized
nations. The why, and the wherefore, shall be
pointed out to you, in proper time ; but the present
case requires its own explanation. Surprising,
and possibly suspicious, as may seem to you the
easy intercourse I hold with my young country-
woman, there is nothing in it beyond what yc i
will see every day in our society. The father
permits it, because / am his countryman^ and he is
watchful of you, because you are not! Men of
my time of life, are not considered particularly
dangerous to the affections of young ladies of
seventeen, for unequal matches are of exceedingly
rare occurrence among us. And, if I were what I

"■■■'>*■.■(>

obabi-
iating,
at his
.nd an-
ht the
) quick
tter re-
atable ;
distin-
1 every
t for it.
ifinter-
I sexes,
hristian
on the
[his par-
uvilized
shall be
present
prising,
you the
jountry-
lat yci
father
nd he is
Men of
icularly
adies of
iedingly
} what I

REASONS FOR 1 AMlLlARllY OF INTERCOURSE. 37

have been,*' he added, smiling, " I do not know
that the case w uld be materially altered. In
every thing but years, the grandfather of the fair
Isabel, knows that I am the equal of his charge.
It would be quite in the ordinary course of thnigs,
that a marriage should grow out of this communi-
cation. Ninety-nine, in one hundred, of our family
connexions, are formed very much in this manner.
Taste and inclination, rather guided, than con-
trolled, by the prudence of older heads, form most
of our matches ; and just as much freedom as com-
ports with that prudence, and a vast deal more
than you probably deem safe, is allowed between
the young of the two sexes. We, who ought to,
and who do know best, think otherwise. Women
are, literally, our better halves. Their frailty is to
be ascribed to the seductions of man. In a com-
munity like ours, where almobt every man has
some healthful and absorbing occupation, there is
neither leisure, nor inclination, to devote much
time to unworthy pursuits. I need not tell you
that vice must be familiar, before it ceases to be
odious. In Europe, a successful intrigue often
gives tdat, even to an otherwise contemptible in-
dividual; in America, he must be it peculiarly
fortunate man, who can withstand its odium. But
the abuse of youth and innocence with us, is com-
paratively rare indeed. In consequence, suspi-
cion slumbers ; voila toutJ''

"But why this difference, then, between you

THE LITVLK ISAliEK.

and me?" I demanded. ** Why does this Cerberus
sleep only while you are nigh ? I confess I looked
for higher courtesy in a man who has travelled."

" It is precisely because he has travelled," my
friend interrupted, a little dryly. " But you can
console yourself with the expectation, that those
of his countrymen, who have never quitted home,
will be less vigilant, because less practised in
foreign manners."

This introduction brings me to my incident. It
was no sooner known that we were about to quit
the ship, than a dozen longing faces gathered
about us. Our example was followed by others,
and one or two more boats from the land were
engaged to transport the passengers into the bay,
in order that they might witness the reception of
La Fayette. I had observed a cloud of disap-
pointment on the fair brow of the little Isabel,
from the moment our intentions were known. The
circumstance was mentioned to Cadwallader, who
was not slow to detect its reason. After a little
thought, he approached the grandfather, r^d made
an offer of as many seats, in our own boat, as might
be necessary for the accommodation of his party.
It seems the health of the old man would not per-
mit the risk. The offer was, therefore, politely
declined. The cloud thickened on the brow of
Isabel; but it vanished entirely when her aged
grandfather proposed that she should accompany
us, attended by a maid, and u?ider the especial pro-

:'tl

GUEAT CONFIDENCE.

rberus
looked
lied."
/," my
ou can
: those
home,
sed in

;nt. It

to quit

ithered

others,

d were

le bay,

)tion of

disap-

Isabel,

The

r, who

a little

made

might

party.

ot per-

olitcly

row of

' aged

npany

d pro-

tect io}i of my companion. In all this arrangement,
singular as it appeared to my eastern vision, there
was the utmost simplicity and confidence. It
was evident, by the tremulous and hesitating assent
of the young lady, that even the customs of the
country were slightly invaded ; but, then, the
occasion was deemed sufficiently extraordinary
to justify the innovation. ** So much for the
privileges of two score and five," whispered Cad-
wallader, after he had handed his charge into the
boat. For myself, I admit I rejoiced in an omen
that was so flattering to those personal preten-
sions which, in my own case, are getting to be a
little weakened by time. Before closing this rela-
tion, of what I consider a distinctive custom, it
is proper to add, that had not the parties been of
the very highest class of society, even far less
hesitation would have been manifested ; and that
the little reluctance exhibited by Isabel, was
rather a tribute paid to that retiring delicacy
which is thought to be so proper to her sex, than
to the most remote suspicion of any positive im-
propriety. Had she been a young married
woman, there would, probably, have been the
same little struggle with timidity, and the same
triumph of the curiosity of the sex. But the
interest which our fair companion took in the
approaching ceremony, deserves a better name.
It was plain, by her sparkling eyes and flushed
features, that a more worthy sentiment was at

I r

LKAVIXCJ TMK SI1I1».

the bottom of her impulses — it was almost pa-
triotism.

Behold us then in the boat ; Cadwallader, the
gentle Isabel, and our three attendants, and im-
pelled by the vigorous arms of four lusty water-
men. We were still upon the open sea, and our dis-
tance from the city not less than seven leagues. The
weather, however, was propitious, and our little
bark, no less than its crew, was admirably adapted
to inspire confidence. The former was long and
narrow, but buoyant, and of beautiful construction,
being both light and strong. The latter, it ap-
pears, are of a class of watermen, that are
renowned in this country, under the name of
Whitehallers. I have every reason to believe
their reputation is fairly earned ; for they urged
the boat onward with great speed, and with the
most extraordinary ease to themselves. I re-
marked, that their stroke was rather short, and
somewhat quick, and that it was made entirely
with the arm, the body remaining as nearly up-
right as possible when the limbs are exerted. At
first, I thought these men were less civil than com-
ported v;ith their condition. They touched their
hats to us, it is true, on entering the boat, but it
was rather too much in the manner of a salutation
of equality; at least, there was no very visible
manifestation of a sense of inferiority. Closer
observation, however, furnished no additional
grounds of complaint. Their whole deportment

DEFER ENCK TO Fl MAI.KS.

st pa-

er, the
id im-
water-
urdis-
s. The
r little
3apted
ig and
action,
it ap-
it are
ime of
believe
I urged
th the
I re-
t, and
itirely
•ly up-
At
com-
their
but it
tation
isible
loser
tional
Itment

was civil, nor, though far from humble, could it
be termed in any degree obtrusive ; still it was
not precisely European. There seemed no sin of
commission, but something of omission, that was
offensive to the established superiority of a man
of a certain number of quarterings. Perhaps I was
more alive to this jealous feeling, from knowing
that I was in a republican country, and from the
fact, that I had so recently quitted one where the
lower classes bow more, and the higher less, than
among any other christian people. The strokes-
man of the boat took some interest in seeing us
all properly bestowed. With the utmost coolness
he appropriated the best place to Isabel, and
then with the same sang Jroid intimated that her
attendant should occupy the next. Neither was
he • J .orant that the object of his care was a do-
mestic, for he called her " the young woman,*'
while he distinguished her mistress as '* the young
lady." I was a little surprised to see that Cad-
wiillader quietly conceded the place to this
Abigail ; for, during the passage, the distinctions
of master and servant always had been sufficiently
observed between all our passengers. I even
ventured to speak to him on the subject, in Ger-
man, of which he has a tolerable knowledge.
''Notwithstanding all that the old world has said
of itself on this subject," he coolly answered, " you
are now in the true Paradise of women. They
receive, perhaps, less idolatry, but more manly

FORTIFICATIONS.

care here, than in any country I have visited."
Truly, Baron, I begin to deem the omens pro-
pitious !

After passing at a short distance from the low
sandy point already named, we were fairly within
the estuary. Thi^ bay is of considerable extent,
and is bounded on the north and on the south by
land of some elevation. It receives a river or two,
from the west, and is partially protected from the
ocean, on the east, by a low beach, which ter-
minates in the point named, and by an island on
the opposite side of the entrance. The mouth is
a few miles in width, possessing several shallow
channels, but only one of a depth sufficient to
admit vessels of a heavy draught. The latter are
obliged to pass within musket shot of the point.
Cape, or Hooky as it is here called. Thence to
the city, a distance of some six leagues, the
navigation is so intricate as to render a pilot
indispensable.

The ruins of an imperfect and insignificant
military work were visible on the cape ; but I
was told the government is seriously occupied in
erecting more formidable fortifications, some of
which were shortly visible. A shoal was pointed
out, on which it is contemplated to construct
an immense castle, at a vast expense, and which,
with the other forts built and building, will
make the place impregnable against all marine
attacks. 1 have been thus diffuse in my details.

UAUITAN BAY.

dear Baron, because I believe every traveller has
a prescriptive right to prove that he enters all
strange hinds with his eyes open ; and, because it
is cjuitc out of my power to say at what moment
youk royal master, the good King William, may
see tit to send you at the head of a fleet to regain
those possessions, of which his ancestors, of the
olden time, were ruthlessly robbed by the cu-
pidity of the piratical English!

1 presume, that renovmed navigator, the inde-
fatigable Hudson, laboured under some such delu-
sion as myself, when his adventurous bark first
steered within the capes of this estuary. My
eyes were constantly bent towards the west, in
expectation of seeing the spires of a town, rear-
ing themselves from the water, which still bounded
the view in that direction* The boat, however,
held its course towards the north, though nothing
was visible there, but an unbroken outline of un-
dulating hills. It seems we were only in an
outer harbour, on a magnificent scale, which
takes its name (Raritau Bay) from that of the
principal river it receives from the west. A pas-
sage through the northern range of hills, became
visible as we approached them, and then glimpses
of the cheerful and smiling scene within, were
first caught. This passage, though near a mile in
width, is a strait, compared with the bays within
and without, and it is not improperly termed " the
Narrows." Directly in the mouth of this passage,

TRAIT OF CIIARACTEK.

and a little on its eastern side, arises a large, mas-
sive fortress, in stone, washed by the water on all
its sides, and mounting some sixty or seventy
pieces of heavy ordnance. The heights on the
adjoining shores, are also crowned with works,
though of a less imposing aspect. The latter are
the remains of the temporary defences of the late
war, while the former, constitutes part of the great
plan of permanent defence. Labourers are, how-
ever, unceasingly employed on the new forts.

The shores, on both hands, were now dotted
with marine villas and farm-houses, and the view
was alive with all the pleasing objects of civilized
life. On our left, a little distance above the pas-
sage, a group of houses came into view, and some
fifty sail were seen anchored in the offing. *• That,
then, is New York!" I said, with a feeling a Jlittle
allied to disappointment. My companion was
silent, for his thoughts kept him dumb, if not
deaf. *' Gentlemen are apt to think they get into
the heart of America at the first step,*' very coolly
returned our strokesman ; " we are eight good
miles from Whitehall slip, and that village is the
quarantine ground." This was said without any
visible disrespect, but with an air of self-posses-
sion that proved our Whitehaller thought it a sub-
ject on which long experience had given him a
perfect right to bestow an opinion. As I felt in
no haste to take the second step into a country
where the first had proved so unreasonably long, I

NEW VORK HARBOUR.

was fain to await the development of things, with
patience. My companions did not manifest any
disposition to converse. Even the petite Isabel,
though her strong native attachments had been
sufficiently apparent, by her previous discourse,
was no longer heard. Like our male companion,
a sentiment of deep interest in the ensuing scene,
kept her silent. At length the exclamation of
" there they come !" burst from the lips of Cad-
wallader; and there they did come, of a cer-
tainty, in all the majesty of a fine aquatic pro-
cession, and that too on a scale of magnificence
that was admirably suited to the surrounding
waters, and as an American would also probably
say, *' to the occasion." In order that you may
form a better idea of the particular scene, it is
necessary that I should attempt a description of
some of its parts.

The harbour of New York is formed by a junc-
tion of the Hudson with an arm of the sea. The
latter connects the waters of Raritan Bay with
those of a large sound, which commences a few
leagues further eastward, and which separates,
for more than a hundred miles, the state of Connec-
ticut from the long narrow island of Nassau. The
Americans call this district Long Island, in common
parlance ; but I love to continue those names
which perpetuate the recollection of your former
dominion. Some six or seven rivers unite here to
pour their waters into a vast basin, of perhaps

CLIMATE AND SCENERY.

sixty or seventy miles in circuit. This basin is sub-
divided into two unequal parts by a second island,
which is known by the name of Staten, another
memento of your ancient power. The Narrows
is the connecting passage. The inner bay cannot
be less than twenty miles in circumference. It
contains three or four small islands, and possesses
water enough for all the purposes of navigation,
with good anchorage in almost every part. The
land around it is low, with the exception of the
hills near its entrance, and certain rocky preci-
pices of a very striking elevation that on one side
line the Hudson, for some miles, commencing a
short distance from its mouth.

On the present occasion every thing combined
to lend to a scenery, that is sufficiently pleasing
of itself, its best and fullest effect. The heavens
were without a cloud ; the expanse beneath, sup-
porting such an arch as would do no discredit to
the climate of sunny Italy herself. The bay,
stretched as far as eye could reach, like a mirror,
unruffled and shining. The heat was rather
genial than excessive, and, in fine, as our imagi-
native young companion poetically expressed it,
** the very airs were loyal, nor had the olimate
forgotten to be true to the feelings of the hour !"

It is necessary to have seen something of the
ordinarily subdued and quiet manner of these
people, in order to enter fully into a just apprecia-
tion of the common feeling, which certainly influ-

THE SUBDUED MANNER OF THE AMERICANS. 47

the

ther

enced all who were with me in the boat. You
probably know that we in Europe are apt to
charge the Americans with being cold of tem-
perament, and little sensible of lively impressions
of any sort. 1 have learnt enough to know, that
in return, they charge us, in gross, with living in
a constant state of exaggeration, and with affect-
ing sentiments we do not feel. I fear the truth
will be found as much with them as against them.
It is always hazardous to judge of the heart by
what the mouth utters : nor is he any more likely
to arrive at the truth, who believes that every
time an European shows^ his teeth in a smile,
he will do you no harm, than he is right who
thinks the dog that growls will as infallibly
bite. I believe, after all, it must be conceded,
that sophistication is not the most favourable
science possible for the cultivation of the pas-
sions. No man is, in common, more impertur-
bable than the American savage ; and who is
there more terrible in his anger, or more firm in
his attachments ! Let this be as it may, these re-
publicans certainly exhibit their ordinary emotions
in no very dramatic manner. I had never before
seen Cadwallader so much excited, and yet his
countenance manifested thought, rather than Joy.
Determined to probe him a little closer, I ventured
to inquire into the nature of those ties which
united La Fayette, a foreigner, and a native of a
country that possesses so little in manners and

i i- . IIS -■ I'l

I. A FAYETTE.

opinions in common with his own, to a people so
very differently constituted from those among
whom he was born and educated.

" It is then fortunate for mankind," returned
Cadwallader, " that there exist, in nature, prin-
ciples which can remove these obstacles of our
own creation. Though habit and education do
place wide and frequently lamentable barriers
between the sympathies of nations, he who has
had the address to break through them, without
a sacrifice of any natural duty, possesses a
merit, which, as it places him above the level
of his fellow-creatures, should, and will protect
him from their prejudices. It is no small part
of the glory of La Fayette, that while he has
taken such a hold of our affections as no man
probably ever before possessed in those of a
foreign nation, he has never, for an instant, for-
gotten that he was a Frenchman. In order, how-
ever, to appreciate the strength and the reasons of
this attachment, as well as the glory it should re-
flect on its subject, it is necessary to remember
the causes which first brought our present guest
among us.

" If any man may claim a character for manful
and undeviating adherence to what he has deemed
the right, under circumstances of nearly irresis-
tible temptation to go wrong, it is La Fayette.
His love of liberal principles was even conceived
under the most unfavourable circumstances. The

inful
;med
fesis-
lette.
lived
The

THE TIE liETWKEN LA FAYETTE AND THE U. S. 49

blandishments of a sensual, but alluring court'
the prejudices of a highly privileged caste, with
youth, wealth, and constitution, were not auspi-
cious to the discovery of truth. None but a man
who was impel! :^d by high and generous inten-
tions, could have thrown away a load which
weighs so many gifted minds to the earth. He
has the high merit of being the fir?t French noble-
man who was willing to devote his life and fortune
to the benefit of the inferior classes. Some vapid
and self-sufficient commentators have choaen to
term this impulse an inordinate and vain ambition.
If their appellation be just, it has been an ambi-
tion which has ever proved itself singularly re-
gardful of others, and as singularly regardless of
self. In the same spirit of detraction have these
declaimers attempted to assail the virtue they
could not imitate, and to depreciate services,
whose very object their contracted minds have
not the power to comprehend. I shall not speak
of events connected with the revolution in his
own country, for they form no other part of our
admiration of La Fayette, than as they serve to
show us how true and how fearless he has ever
been in adhering to what we, in common, believe
to be the right. Had he been fitted to control
that revolution, as it existed in its worst and most
revolting aspects, he would have failed in some
of those qualities which are necessary to our
esteem.

VOL. I.

AMERICA AND LA FAYETTE.

" In the remembrance of the connection between
La Fayette and his own country, the American
finds the purest gratification. It is not enough
to say that other men have devoted themselves to
the cause of human nature, since we seek, in vain,
for one who has done it with so little prospect of
future gain, or at so great hazard of present loss.
His detractors pretend that he was led into our
quarrel by that longing for notoriety, which is so
common to youth. It is worthy of remark, that
this longing should have been as peculiarly his
own by its commencement as by its duration. It
is exhibited in the man of seventy, under precisely
the same forms that it was first seen in the youth
of nineteen. In this particular, at least, it partakes
of the immutable quality of truth.

" Separate from all those common principles,
which, in themselves, would unite us to any man,
there are ties of a peculiarly endearing nature
between us and La Fayette. His devotion to our
cause was not only first in point of time, but it
has ever been first in all its moral features. He
came to bestow, and not to receive. While others,
who brought little beside their names, were seek-
ing rank and emoluments, he sought the field of
battle. His first commission had scarcely re-
ceived the stamp of official forms, before it had
received the still more honourable seal of his own
blood. A boy in years, a native of a country
towards which we had a hereditary dislike, he

INTEREST IN LA FAYETTE.

jtween
lerican
enough
lives to
n vain,
;pect of
nt loss,
nto our
ch is so
rk, that
larly his
ion. It
►recisely
le youth
partakes

jinciples,
iiy man,
nature
in to our
, but it
es. He
others,
re seek-
field of
ely re-
le it had
his own
country
;like, he

caused his prudence to be respected among the
most prudent and wary people of the earth. He
taught us to forget our prejudices : we not only
loved him, but we began to love his nation for his
sake. Throughout the half century of our inter-
course, a period more fraught with eventful
changes than any that has preceded it, nothing
has occurred to diminish, or to disturb, this affec-
tion. As his devotion to our cause never wavered,
not even in the darkest days of our adversity, so
has our attachment continued steady to the
everlasting obligations of gratitude. Whatever
occurred in the revolutions of the old world, the
eye of America was turned on La Fayette. She
watched his movements with all the solicitude of
a tender parent ; triumphed in his successes ;
sympathised in his reverses ; mourned in his suf-
ferings, but always exulted in his constancy. The
knowledge of passing events is extended in our
country, to a degree that is elsewhere unknown.
We heard of the downfal of thrones ; of changes in
dynasties ; of victories, defeats, rapine, and war^
until curiosity itself was sated with repetitions of
the same ruthless events. Secure in our position,
and firm in our principles, the political tornadoes,
that overturned the most ancient establishments
:• of the old world, sounded in our ears, with no
greater effect than the sighings of our own, au-
tumnal gales. But no event, coupled with the
interests of our friend, was suffered to escape our

E 2

52 FEELINGS OF THE CHILDREN IN HIS FAVOUR,

-T .

notice. The statesman, the yeoman, or the
school-boy ; the matron among her offspring ; the
housewife amid her avocations ; and the beauty in
the blaze of her triumph, forgot alike the passions
or interests of the moment, forgot their apathy in
the distresses of a portion of the world that they
^^die' i w'as wanting in some of its duty to itself,
t<v ' .'>f; ^»' at all, and drew near to listen at the name
01 : r t. v^tte. I remember the deep, reverential,
I might almost say awful, attention, with which a
school of some sixty children, on a remote fron-
tier, listened to the tale of his sufferings in the
castle of Olmutz, as it was recounted to us by the
instructor, who had been a soldier in his youth,
and fought the battles of his country, under the
orders jf the * young and gallant Frenchman.'
We plotted among ourselves, the means of his
deliverance ; wondered that the nation was not
in arms to redress his wrongs, and were animated
by a sort of reflection of his own youthful and
generous chivalry. Washington was then with
us, and, as he was said to be exerting the influ-
ence of his powerful name, vv^hich, even at that
early day, was beginning to obtain the high ascen-
dancy of acknowledged virtue, we consoled our-
selves with the reflection, that he, at least, could
never fail. Few Americans, at this hour, enjoy a
happier celebrity than Huger, who, in conjunction
with a brave German, risked life and liberty to
efl'ect the release of our benefactor.

1
4

AVOUR.

HIS FAME.

or the
ng ; the
jauty in
passions
pathy in
hat they
to itself,
Lhe name
^erential,
which a
Lote fron-
ts in the
as by the
Lis youth,
under the
pnchman.'
ns of his
was not
animated
[thful and
;hen with
the influ-
n at that
gh ascen-"
oled our-
ast, could
r, enjoy a
injunction
liberty to

^f;.

" Though subsequent events have tranquillized
this interest in the fortunes of La Fayette, we
must become recreant to our principles, before it
can become extinct. It is now forty years since
he was last among us ; but scarcely an Ameri-
can can enter France without paying the homage
of a visit to La Grange. Our admiration of his
disinterestedness, of liis sacrifices, and of his con
sistency, is just as strong as ever; and. I confess,
I anticipate that the country will ret ivc 'lim in
such a manner as shall prove this at* chi nt to
the world. But, you are not to e.^.e:t, in our
people, manifestations of joy similar to those you
have witnessed in Europe. We arc .v ither clam-
orous nor exaggerated, in the exhibitions of our
feelings. The prevailing character of the nation
is that of moderation. Still am I persuaded
that, in the case of La Fayette, some of our self-
restraint will give way before the force of affection.
We consider ourselves as the guardians of his
fame. They who live a century hence, may live
to know how high a superstructure of renown can
be reared, when it is based on the broad founda-
tions of the gratitude of a people like our own. The
decision of common sense to-day, will become
the decision of posterity."

Cadwallader spoke with an earnestness that, at
least, attested the sincerity of his own feelings.
I may have given to his language the stiffness of
a written essay, but I am certain of having pre-

iiC'-

"■'*1

i If

r>4

PREJUDICES AGAINST HIM IN EUROPE.

served all the ideas, and even most of the words.
The humid eyes of the fair Isabel responded to all
he uttered, and even our Whitehallers bent to their
oars, and listened with charmed ears. — Adieu.

TO THE BARON VON KEMPERFELT.

New York,

I CLOSED my last with the sentiments of my
American friend, on the subject of La Fayette.
I confess that the time was, when my feelings had
not entirely escaped the prejudice which is so
common among certain people in Europe, on the
subject of the character of this distinguished indi-
vidual. The French Revolution led to so many
excesses, that, under a disgust of its abuses, the
world has been a little too apt to confound per-
sons, in judging of its characters and events. It
is now time, however, to begin to consider,
whether its sacrifices have been made without a
sufficient object. If the consciousness of civil
rights, and the general intelligence which are be-
ginning to diffuse themselves throughout Christen-
dom, are remembered, it will be generally ad-
mitted, I believe, that France has not suffered in
vain. If any man can be said to have foreseen, and
to have hoped for these very results, on which the

PE.

•■•I

A BETTEIl lEELiyO GAIXING GHOUND.

words.

d to all

\o their

ieu.

of my
^ayette.
ngs had
;h is so

on the
ed indi-

0 many
ses, the
|nd per-
Ints. It

nsider,
jithout a

1 of civil
are be-

ihristen-
illy ad-
Fered in
|jen, and
lich the

kingdom, no less than the enlightened of all
Europe, is beginning to felicitate itself, it really
seems to me, it must be La Fayette. That he
failed to stem the torrent of disorder, was the
fault of the times, or, perhaps, the fault of those
whose previous abuses had produced so terrible
a re-action. It was fortunate for Napoleon him-
self, that his destinies did not call him into the
arena an hour sooner than they did. His life, or
his proscripton would, otherwise, have probably
been the consequence. The man who was so easily
spoiled by prosperity, might readily have sunk
under the extraordinary pressure of the first days
of the Revolution. But, as it is my present object
to write of America, we will waive all other
matter.

Had any of those ancient prejudices still ex-
isted, I should have been churlish, indeed, not to
have participated, in some degree, in the generous
feelings of my companions. There was so much
genuine, undisguised, and disinterested gratifica-
tion expressed in the manners of them all, that it
was impossible to distrust its sincerity. The
welcome of every eye was more like the look with
which friend meets friend, than the ordinary con-
ventional and artificial greetings of communities.
Not a soul of them all, with the exception of Cad-
wallader, had ever seen their visiter, and yet the
meanest individual of the party took a manifest
pleasure in his visit. But it is time that I should

PROCESSION OF STEAM-BOATS.

i'N

show you that this feeling was not confined
to the half dozen who were in my own boat.

At the exclamation of ** there they come," from
Cadwallader, my look had been directed to the
inner bay, and in the direction of the still distant
city. The aquatic procession I saw, was composed
principally of steam-boats. They were steering
towards the village of the Lazaretto, and their
decks exhibited solid masses of human heads. In
order to conceive the beauty of the sight, you are
to recal the accessories described in my last letter,
the loveliness of the day, and it is also necessary
to understand something of the magnitude, appear-
ance, and beauty of an American steam-boat.
The latter are often nearly as large as frigates,
are not painted, as commonly in Europe, a gloomy
blac^i, but are of lively and pleasing colours, with-
out being gaudy, and have frequently species of
wooden canopies, that serve as additional decks,
on which their passengers may walk. The largest
of these boats, when crowded, will contain a
thousand people. There was one, among the
present collection, of great size, tha^ had been
constructed to navigate the ocean, and which was
provided with the usual masts and rigging of a
ship. This vessel was manned by seamen of the
public service, and was gaily decorated with a
profusion of flags. Our boat reached the wharf of
the Lazaretto, a few minutes after the procession.
One of the largest of the vessels had stopped at

nfined

" from
to the
iistant
iposed
teering
I their
Is. In
'ou are
: letter,
lessary
.ppear-
n-boat.
•igates,
doomy
, with-
cies of
decks,
argest
itain a
ng the
1 been
ch was
of a
of the
with a
harf of
essioii.
iped at

ENTRANCE INTO THE AMERICAN WOULD. 57

this place, lying with her side to the shore, while
the others were whirling and sailing around the
spot, giving an air of peculiar life and animation to
the scene. Here I found myself, as it wercby acvw/?
(k ma'Wy transferred at once from the monotony of
a passage ship, into the bustle and activity of the
American world. Probably not less than five
thousand people were collected at this one spot,
including all ages and every condition known to
the society of the country. Though the whole
seemed animated by a common sentiment of
pleasure, I did not fail to observe an air of great
and subdued sobriety in the countenances of
almost all around me. As Cadwallader had the
address to obtain our admission into the steam-
boat that had come to land, and which was in-
tended to receive La Fayette in person, 1 was
brought into immediate contact with its occupants.
Closer observation confirmed my more distant im-
pressions. I found myself in the midst of an
orderly, grave, well-dressed^ but certainly exulting
crowd. It was plain to see that all orders of men
(with a few females) were here assembled, unless
I might except that very inferior class which I
a ready begin to think is not as usually to be found
in this country as in most others. I heard French
spoken, and by the quick, restless eyes, and
elevated heads of some half dozen, I could see that
France had her representatives in the throng, and
that they deemed the occasion one in which they

■I;

IffiiU

EXULTATION OF THE FRENCH.

had no reason to blush for their country. Indeed
I can scarcely imagine a spectacle more gratifying
to a Frenchman, than the sight that was here ex-
hibited. The multitude was assembled to do
honour to an individual of their own country, for
services that he had rendered to a whole people.
The homage he received was not of a nature to be
distrusted. It was as spontaneous as had been
the benefits it was intended in some manner to
requite ; it was of a nature, both in its cause and
its effects, to do credit to the best feelings of man ;
but it was also of a nature to contribute to the just
and personal pride of the countrymen of him who
was its object.

We had no sooner secured a proper situation
for the little Isabel, than I disposed myself to
make remarks still more minute on the assem-
blage. Cadwallader kept near me, and, though
big with the feelings of home and country, his ear
was not deaf to my inquiries and demands for ex-
planation. The first question was to ascertain the
present residence of the " General," as I found he
was universally called, as it were par excellence.
They pointed out a modest dwelling, embov/ered
in trees, which might claim to be something be-
tween an unpretending villa and a large farm-
house. It was the residence of the Vice President
of the United States. This individual was born in
a condition of mediocrity, — had received the ordi-
nary, imperfect, classical education of the country.

■"'If

VICE PRESIDENT.

A
^

and had risen, by popular favour, to the station of
Governor of this, his native, state. Quite as much
by the importance of that state, as by the weight
of his own character, (which is very di^erently
estimated by different people,) he has been chosen
to fill his present situation ; an office which, while
it certainly makes him the legal successor of the
President, in case of death, resignation, or dis-
ability, is not considered, in itself, one of very
high importance, since its sole duties are limited
to the chair of the senate, without a seat in the
cabinet. There has been no recent instance of a
Vice President succeeding to the Presidency ; and
I can easily see, the office is deemed, among poli-
ticians, what the English seamen call a '* yellow
flag." The pv: sent incumbent is said to be re-
duced in his private resources, (the fate of most
public men, here as elsewhere, where corruption
is not exceedingly bare-faced,) and is compelled
to make the dwelling named his principal, if not his
only, residence. Here La Fayette had passed the
day after his arrival, the sabbath, which it would
seem is never devoted by the Americans to any
public ceremonies except those of religion.

Cadwallader pointed out to ma, among the
crowd, several individuals who had filled respect-
able military rank in the war of the Revolution.
Three or four of them were men of fine presence,
and of great gravity and dignity of mien : others
had less pretension ; but all appeared to possess, at

\>"

♦if

Cj i •

ft;!,

I '

IF *;-ay

APPROACH OF LA FAYETTE.

that moment, a common feeling. There was one
in particular, who appeared an object of so much
attention and respect, that I was induced to in-
quire his history. He had been an officer of a
rank no higher than colonel — (few of the gene-
rals of that period are now living ;) — but it seems
he had obtained a name among his countrymen
for political firmness and great personal daring.
He, however, appeared a good deal indebted for
his present distinction to his great age, which could
not be much less than ninety. Cadwallader then
pointed to a still firm, upright veteran of near
eighty, who had left the army of the Revolu-
tion a general, and who had already travelled
forty miles that morning to welcome La Fayette.
Others in the crowd were more or less worthy of
attention ; but the principal object of interest
soon mad^ his appearance, and drew all eyes
to himself.

The General approached the boat escorted by
a Committee of the City Authorities, and attended
by the Vice President. The latter, a man of
rather pleasing exterior, took leave of him on the
wharf. La Fayette entered the vessel amid a
deep and respectful silence. A similar reception
of a public man, in Europe, would have been
ominous of a waning popularity. Not an excla-
mation, not even a greeting of any sort, was
audible. A lane was opened through a mass of
bodies that was nearly solid, and the visiter ad-

HIS RECEPTION.

vanced slowly along the deck towards the stern.
The expression of his countenance, though gra-
tified and affectionate, seemed bewildered. His
eye, remarkable for its fire, even in the decline of
life, appeared to seek in vain the features of his
ancient friends. To most of those whom he
passed, his form must have worn the air of some
image drawn from the pages of history. Half a
century had carried nearly all of his contemporary
actors of the Revolution into the great abyss of
time, and he now stood like an imposing column
that had been reared to commemorate deeds and
principles that a whole people had been taught to
reverence.

La Fayette moved slowly through the multi-
tude, walking with a little difficulty from a personal
infirmity. On every side of him his anxious gaze
still sought some remembered face ; but, though all
bowed, and, with a deep sentiment of respect and
affection, each seemed to watch his laboured
footstep, no one advanced to greet him. The
crowd opened in his front by a sort of secret im-
pulse, until he had gained the extremity of the
boat, where, last in the throng, stood the grey-
headed and tottering veteran 1 have mentioned.
By common consent his countrymen had paid this
tribute to his services and his age. The honour of
receiving the first embrace was his. I should fail
in power were I to attempt a description equal to
the effect produced by this scene. The old man

-'(>■.,

■ "^

■m

i ' ^

i ■

'<:.»■

MOVEMENT TOWARDS THE TOWN.

extcadcd his arms, and, as La Fayette heard >iis
name, he flew into them like one who was glid to
seek any relief from the feelings by which he
was oppressed. They were long silently folded in
each others arms. I know not, nor do I care,
whether there were any present more stoical than
myself: to me, this sight, simple and devoid of
pageantry, was touching and grand. Its very
nakedness heightened the effect. There was no
laboured address, no ready answer, no drilling of
the feelings in looks or speeches, nor any mer-
cenary cries to drown the senses in noise. Nature
was trusted to, and well did she perform her
part. I saw all around me paying a silent trjbate
to her power. T do not envy the man who could
have witnessed such a scene unmoved.

Greetings now succeeded greetings, until not
only all the aged warriors, but most of the indivi-
duals in the boat, had been permitted to welcome
their guest. In the meii?tw> ile the vessel had left
the land, unheeded, and, by the time recollection
had returned, I found myself in an entirely new
situation. The whole of the aquatic procession
was in motion towards the town, and a gayer or
a more animated cortege can scarcely be imagined.
The deep, quiet sentiment which attended the first
reception, had found relief, and joy was exhibiting
itself under some of its more ordinary aspects.
The Castle of La Fayette (for so is the for-
h-ess in the miist of the water called,) was

MANNER OF APPROACH.

sending the thunder of its heavy artillery in
our wake ; while several light vessels of war
(the steam-ship included,) were answering it
in feeble, but not less hearty, echoes. The
yards of the latter were strung with seamen,
and occasionally she swept grandly along our
side, rending the air with the welcome peculiar to
your element. There was literally a maze of
steam-boats. Our own, as containing the object
of the common interest, was permitted to keep
steadily on her way, quickening or relaxing her
speed, to accommodate her motion to that of those
in company, but scarce a minute passed that some
one of this brilliant corthge was not sweeping
along one or the other of our sides, bearing a living
burthen, which, as it was animated by one spirit,
seemed to possess but one eye, and one subject
to gaze at. It was some little time before I could
sufficiently extricate my thoughts from the pleas
ing confusion of such a spectacle, to examine the
appearance of the bay, and of the town, which soon
became distinctly visible. Though ae distance
exceeded two leagues, our passage seemingly
occupied but a very few minutes. Before us the
boats began to thicken on the water, though the
calmness of the day-, and the speec. with which we
moved, probably prevented our being followed by
animmense train of lighter craft. Two of the steam-
vessels, however, had taken the Cadmus in tow,
and were bearing her in triumph tov. irds the city.

'■ X.

r:;a

ARllIVAL AT NEW VORK.

I had almost forgotten to say, that in passing this
ship, which had been anchored off the Lazaretto,
the son and secretary of La Fayette joined us, and
received the sort of reception you can readily
imagine. We then passed a few fortified islands,
which spoke to us in their artillery, and soon found
ourselves within musket shot of the town.

At the confluence of the Hudson (which is here
a mile in width), and the arm of the sea already
mentioned, the city is narrowed nearly to a point.
The natural formation of the land, however, has
been changed to a fine sweep, which is walled against
the breaches of the water, while trees have been
planted, and walks have been laid out, on the open
space which lies between the houses and the bay.
This promenade was once occupied by the prin-
cipal fortification of the colonial town, from which
circumstance it has obtained the name of the
** Battery." On a small, artificial island, at the
more immediate junction of the two tides, stands
a large circular work, of one tier of guns, which
was once known as '' Castle Clinton." It has
been abandoned, however, as a military post, and
having become the property of the city, it is now
oocupied as a place of refreshment and amusement
for the inliabitants, under the mongrel appellation
of " Castle Garden." There is no garden, unless
the area of the work can be called one ; but it
seems ihat as the city abounds with small public
gardens, which are appropriated to the same uses

■^!Si#'

CASTLE GARDEN — n ATT F.UV.

as this rejected castle, it has been thought proper,
in this instance, to supply the space which is else-
where found so agreeable, by a name at least. This
place had been chosen for the spot at which La
Fayette was to land. The ramparts of the castle,
which have been altered to a noble belvedere, a
terrace at the base of the work, and the whole
of the fine sweep of the battery, a distance of more
than a quarter of a mile, were teeming with human
countenances. A long glittering line of the military
was visible in the midst of the multitude, and every
thing denoted an intention to give the visiter a
noble welcome. The reception I had already wit-
nessed was evidently only a prelude to a still more
imposing spectacle ; the whole population of the
place having poured out to this spot, and standing
in readiness to greet their guest. To my eye, there
seemed, at least, a hundred thousand souls. Our
approach to the shore was now positively im-
peded by the boats, and La Fayette left us in a
barge, which was sent to receive him from the
land. What passed about his person, in the fol-
lowing scene, I am unable to say ; but I saw the
rocking of the multitude as he moved among them,
and heard the shouts which, fvom time to time,
escaped a people whose manners are habitually
so self-restrained. It was easy to note his move-
ments in the distance, for, wherever he appeared,
thither the tide of human beings set; but op-
pressed with the novelty of my situation, and

li.?:'fi

V(H.. I.

THE LH rr.E Isabel.

anxious to liberate my thoughts from the whirl of
so constant an excitement, I was glad to hear
Cadwallader proj)o.se our seeking an hotel. We
left the little Isabel at the door of her father ; and
after being present at a meeting between a nation
and its guest, I had the pleasure to see the fair
girl throw herself, weeping, but happy, into the
arms of those who formed her domestic w^orld.
Still, ingenuous and affectionate as this young-
creature is, she scarcely appeared to think of
hame, until her foot was on the threshold of her
father's house. Then, indeed, La Fayette was
for a time forgotten, and nature was awakened in
all its best and sweetest sympathies. Our pecu-
liar propensities, my worthy Baron, may have
left us with lighter loads to journey through the
vale of life ; but 1 hope it is no treason to the
principles of the club, sometimes to entertain a
moderate degree of doubt on the score of their
wisdom.

Our lodgings are at a house that is called the City
Hotel. It is a tavern on a grand scale, possessing
the double character of an European and an Ame-
rican house. We have taken up our abode in the
former side, the latter, in the true meaning of the
word, being a little too gregarious, for the humour
of even my companion. In order that you may
understand this distinction, it is necessary that
I should explain. I shall do it on the authority
of Cadwallader.

^;S

Iftt

TIIK CITV HOTEL.

liirl of
hear
We
' ; and
nation
iie fair
tto the
world,
young-
ink, of
of her
e was
ined in
pecu-
f have
s^h the
to the
rtain a
f their

leCity
essing
1 Ame-
in the
of the
uraour
lu may
y that
tliority

■.K

Most of the travelling in America is done cither
in steam-boats, which abound, or in the public
coaches. This custom has induced the habit of
living in common, which prevails, in a greater
or less degree, from one extremity of the Re-
public, or, as it is called here, ** the Union," to
the other. Those, however, who choose to live
separately, can do so, by incurring a small additional
charge. In this house, the number of inmates
must, at this moment, greatly exceed a hundred.
By far the greater part occupy nothing more than
bed-rooms, assembling at stated hours at a table
d' lidtc for their meals, of which there are four in
the day. In some few instances more than one
bed is in a room, but it is not the usual arrange-
ment of the house ; the whole of which I have
visited, from its garrets to its kitchens. I find
the building extensive ; quite equal to a first rate
European hotel in size, excelling the latter in some
conveniences, and inferior to it in others. It is
clean from top to bottom ; carpeted in almost
every room ; a custom the Americans have bor-
rowed from the English, and which, in this
latitude, in the month of August, might be
changed for something more comfortable. Our
own accommodations are excellent. Thev com-
prise our bed-rooms, which are lofty, airy, and
convenient, and a salon, that would be esteemed
handsome even in Paris. We also might have
our four meals, and at our own hours : dining,

F 2

■\ -'i

■\.

:rs6

EXPENCF.S, ACCOMMODATIONS, ETC.

however, at six o'clock, we dispense with the
supper. The master of the house is a respectable,
and an exceedingly well-behaved and obliging
man, who, of course, allows each of his guests,
except those who voluntarily choose to live at
his tabic if hhtc^ to adopt his own hours, without a
murmur, or even a discontented look. I believe
we might dine at midnight, if we would, without
exciting his surprise. Cadwallader tells me the
customs, in this respect, vary exceedingly in
America ; that dinner is eaten between the hours
of two and six, by people in genteel life, though
rarely later than the latter hour, and not often so
late. The talk d' hotc in this house is served at
three.

The charges are far from dear, where we are
established, though it is one of the most expensive
taverns in the country. The price for the rooms
sounded a little high at first ; but when we took
into view the style of the accommodation, the
excessive abundance, as well as the quality of our
food, and the liberality with which lights, &c. &c.,
were furnished, we found them much lower than
what the same articles could be got for in Paris,
and vastly lower than in London, or even in
Liverpool. But of all these things 1 intend to
give someone of you (I think it must be the colonel,
who unites, to so remarkable a degree, the love of
his art with the love of good cheer) a more de-
tailed account at some future day.

f
i

'I -U

1 the

table,
liging
uests,
ive at
lOut a
»elieve
ithout
le the
Tly in
hours
;hough
ften so
•ved at

we are
)ensive
rooms
e took
n, the
of our
c. &c.,
r than
Paris,
ven in
end to
olonel,
love of
re de-

>t^

■I

I.A FAYKTTK.

f had almost forgotten to say, that La Fayette
is lodged in the same house with ourselves. He
is literally overwhelmed with kindness and ho-
nours. Pleasing as we find the circumstance in
itself, I fear it will oblige us to seek a dift< rent
abode, since there is a throng incessantly at the
door ; well dressed and orderly, it is true, but
still a throng. The very boys are eager to shake
his hand, and thousands of bright eyes are turned
towards the windows of our hotel to catch fleeting
glimpses of his person. His stay here is, however,
limited to a short period, an old engagement
calling him to Boston, which, during the war of
the Revolution, was a place of more importance
than even this great commercial town. Adieu.

TO SIR EDWARD WALLER, BART.

New York'

* In consequence of this temporary separation
from Cadwallader, I was left for a few days, the
master of my own movements. I determined to
employ them in a rapid excursion through a part
of the eastern states of this great confederation, in

* The coinmencemeiit of this, and of many of the succeeding
letters, are omitted, since they contain matter already known to the
reader.

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WiBSTIR.N.Y. 14SM

(716) S72-4S03

70 ROUTE THROUGH PART OF NEW ENCJLAND.

ii; r

order to obtain a coup deceit of a portion of the
interior. It would have been the most obvious,
and perhaps the most pleasing route, to have
followed the coast as far as Boston ; but this would
have brought me in the train of La Fayette,
where the natural aspect of society was disturbed
by the universal joy and excitement produced by
his reception. I chose, therefore, a direction farther
from the water, through the centre of Connecticut,
entering Massachusetts by its southern border,
and traversing that state to Vermont. After look-
ing a little at the latter, and New Hampshire, I
returned through the heart of Massachusetts to
Rhode Island, re-entering and quitting Connec-
ticut at new points, and regaining this city through
the adjacent county of Westchester. The whole
excursion has exceeded a thousand miles, though
the distance from New York has at no time been
equal to three hundred. By naming some of the
principal towns through which I passed, you will
be able to trace the route on a map, and may
better understand the little I have to commu-
nicate. I entered Connecticut near Danbury, and
left it at Suffield, having passed a night in Hart-
ford, one of its two capital towns. The river was
followed in crossing Massachusetts, and my
journey in Vermont terminated at Windsor. I
then crossed the Connecticut (river) into New
Hampshire, to Concord, and turning south, re-
entered Massachusetts, proceeding to Worcester.

■u t

CHAUACTKH OI- THE COl'NTKY VISITtD. 71

The journey from this point back to New York,
was a little circuitous, embracing Providence and
Newport, (in Rhode Island), and New London,
New Haven and Fairfield, in Connecticut.

As experience had long since shown me that
the people on all great, and much frequented,
roads, acquire a species of conventional and arti-
ficial character, I determined, if possible, to pene-
trate at once into that part of the country within
my reach, which might be supposed to be the least
sophisticated, and which, of course, would afford
the truest specimen of the national character. Cad-
wallader has examined my track, and he tells me
I have visited the very portion of New England,
which is the best adapted to such an object. I
saw no great town during my absence, and if I
travelled much of the time amid secluded and
peaceful husbandmen, I occasionally touched at
points where all was alive with the bustle and
activity of commerce and manufactures.

A review of the impressions left by this short
excursion has convinced me of the diflftculty of con-
veying to an European, by the pen, any accurate,
general impression,of even the external appearance
of this country. What is so true of one part, is so
false of the others, and descriptions of sensible
things which were exact a short time since,
become so very soon erroneous through changes,
that one should hesitate to assume the responsi-
bility of making them. Still, such as they are,

■t;

1 ■ T

EXPLANATION OF THE TERM YANKEE.

mine are at your service. In order, however, to
estimate their value, some little preliminary ex-
planation may be necessary.

The SIX eastern states of this union comprise
what is called New England. Their inhabitants
are known here by the familiar appellation of
* Yankees.' This word is most commonly sup-
posed to be a corruption of ' Yengeese,' the
manner in which the native tribes, first known to
the colonists, pronounced * English.* Some,
however, deny this derivation, at the same time
that they confess their inability to produce a
plausible substitute. It is a little singular that
the origin of a soubriquet, which is in such general
use, and which cannot be of any very long ex-
istence, should already be a matter of doubt. It
is said to have been used by the English as a term
of contempt, when the American was a colonist,
and it is also said, that the latter often adopts it
as an indirect and playful means of retaliation. It
is necessary to remember one material distinction
in its use, which is infallibly made by every
American. At home, the native of even New
York, though of English origin, will tell you he is
not a Yankee. The term here, is supposed to be
perfectly provincial in its application ; being, as I
have said, confined to the inhabitants, or rather the
natives of New England. But, out of the United
States, even the Georgian does not hesitate to call
himself a * Yankee.' The Americans are particu-

i: 'I

PRIDE IN THE APPELLATION'.

lady fond of distinguishing any thing connected
with their general enterprise, skill, or reputation,
by this term. Thus, the southern planter, who is
probably more averse than any other to admit a
community of those personal qualities, which are
thought to mark the differences in provincial or
rather state character, will talk of what a * Yankee
merchant,' a * Yankee negociator,' or a * Yankee
soldier,' can and has done ; meaning always the
people of the United States. I have heard a naval
officer of rank, who was born south of the Potomac,
and whose vessel has just been constructed in this
port, speak of the latter with a sort of suppressed
pride, as a * Yankee man-of-war.' Now, I had
overheard the same individual allude to another in
a manner that appeared reproachful, and in which
he used the word * Yankee,' with peculiar em-
phasis. Thus it is apparent, that the term has two
significations among the Americans themselves,
one of which may be called its national, and the
other its local meaning. The New-Englandman
evidently exults in the appellation at all times.
Those of the other states with whom I have come
in contact, are manifestly quite as well pleased to
lay no claim to the title, though all use it freely,
in its foreign, or national sense. I think it would
result from these facts, that the people of New
England are thought, by the rest of their country-
men, to possess some minor points of character, in
which the latter do not care to partici[)ate, and of

\'^

1 1

74 GRKAT HARMONY BETWEKNTHK PEOPLE.

which the New Englandman is unconscious, or in
which, perhaps, he deems himself fortunate, while,
on the other hand, the^ possess certain other and
more important qualities, which are admitted to be
creditable to the whole nation. Cadwallader,
who is a native of New York, smiled when I pro-
posed this theory, but desired me to have a little
patience until I had bsen able to judge for myself.
After all, there is little or no feeling excited on
the subject, The inhabitants of states, living a
thousand miles asunder, speak of each other with
more kindness, in common, than the inhabitants
of adjoining counties in England, or provinces
in France. Indeed, the candour and manliness
with which the northern man generally admits the
acknowledged superiority of his southern country-
man, on certain points, and vice versa, is matter
of surprise to me, who, as you know, have wit-
nessed so much illiberality on similar subjects,
among the natives of half the countries of Europe.
New England embraces an area of between
sixty and seventy thousand square miles. Thus,
you see, it is larger in extent than England and
Wales united. It has about seven hundred miles of
sea coast, and contains a population of something
less than 1,800,000. This would give about
twenty-seven to the square mile. But in order to
arrive at an accurate idea of the populousness of the
inhabited parts of the country, it is necessary to
exclude from the calculation, that part of it which

llAit OF POPULATION TO TMK SQUAUK M I IJO.

is not peopled. We should then reject a very large
portion of Maine, and a good deal of land in the
northern parts of Vermont and New Hampshire,
including, perhaps, twenty thousand square miles.
This estimate would leave forty inhabitants
to the square mile. But we will confine
ourselves to Massachusetts, Connecticut, and
Rhode Island ; neither of which, for America, has
an unusual quantity of vacant land. Their sur-
face embraces about 14,000 square miles. The
population is not quite a million. This will give
an average of a little less than seventy to the square
mile. Here, then, we have what may be con-
sidered the maximum of the density of American
population on any very extended surface. There
is a fair proportion of town and country, and a
more equal distribution of the labour of society,
between commerce, manufactures, and agricul-
ture, than perhaps in any other section of the
Union. You are not, however, to suppose that
this amount of population is confined to these
three states. A great deal of New York, Ohio, and
Pennsylvania, and certain districts in many other
states, have attained, or even exceed, this ratio.
Thus the highest comparative rate of population
in this country, estimating it in districts of any
considerable extent, is a little less than that of
the whole kingdom of Denmark, and very mate-
rially exceeding that of Spain.

Still you will scarcely be able to obtain a just

.ji

t ]

^ '; j ■

i '■■ I

ii'i

1 1* { i

Mi ■ '

70 DECEPTIVE APPEARANCE, OF POPULATION.

idea of the outward appearance of New England
from a knowledge of these facts. You must have
often observed, in travelling through the most
populous countries of Europe, how few of their
people are seen. France, for instance, only shows
the millions with which she is teeming, in her
cities and villages. Nor are you struck with the
populousness of even the latter, unless you hap-
pen to enter them on f&tes, or have an opportunity
of examining them in the evening, after the la-
bourers have returned from the fields. This is,
more, or less, true with every other country in
Europe. Even in England, one does not see
much of the population out of the towns, unless
at fairs, or merry-makings. Now I do not remem-
ber to have ever travelled so far thr ; ' any
c ^^ntry which appeared more populous ..an the
J rts of New England describtd.* This peculi-
arity may be ascribed to several causes.

The whole country is subdivided into small
freeholds, which are commonly tilled by their
owners. The average size of these estates is
probably less than a hundred acres. Each, as a
general rule, has its house and out-houses. These
buildings are usually very near the public roads,
and consequently in plain view of the traveller.
The field labour is also commonly done at no great
distance from the highway. In addition to these
reasons, the Americans are thought to perforn

* Part of the North of Italy may, perhaps, be excepted.

IlEASONS FOU Tins ArPF-AUANCK.

more journeys, and, consequently, to be more
before the eye of their visiters than common. Cad-
wallader accounts for the latter circumstance in
various w^ays. The greatness of the intermediate
distances is the chief of his reasons. But the
mental activity of the people, together with the
absence of want, are thought to have a propor-
tionate effect. I hear wonders of the throngs
that are seen, at certain seasons, on the avenues
which lead from the interior to any of the
great markets. My companion assures me he
once counted eight hundred waggons in the dis-
tance of forty miles, most of which were convey-
ing wheat to the city of Albany. On the same
road there were sixty taverns in a distance of as
many miles ; a sufficient proof in itself of the
amount of travelling.

Now, all this does not at all comport with our
vague European notions of America. We are
apt to imagine it a thinly populated, wooded, and
fertile, though little cultivated region. Thinly po-
pulated it assuredly is, when the whole number of
its square miles is compared to the whole amount
of its population. But from what I have seen
and heard, I feel persuaded, that an American,
who understood his ground, might conduct a
stranger, who knew nothing of the true numbers
of the country, over a territory which shall greatly
exceed France in extent, and leave the impression
on the mind of his guest, that it was more popu-

■^Tl\ii

! ■>.

|) -r!

APPF, AHA \CF. OF COrX'TllV.

lous than the latter kingdom. In hazarding this
opinion, however, I except the effect of the great
towns, and of the villages on fi^te days and at even-
ings. In continental Europe the traveller often
feels a sense of loneliness, though surrounded by
millions of human beings. He sees no houses out
of the villages ; he meets few on the highways ;
even the field labourers are half the time removed
from sight, and when he enters a wood, it is usu-
ally a tenantless forest. In the parts of America
I have as yet visited, the very reverse is the case.
Unless in particular instances, houses occurred at
very short intervals ; the highways were not
thronged as described by Cadwallader, it is true,
but I saw more travellers than is usual in the
season of harvest ; and I scarcely recollect the
moment when my eye could not discover groups
of field labourers. Of wood there was certainly
plenty ; but of forests, with the exception of now
and then a mountain, scarcely any. At the latter
fact, no less than at the air of populousness
which distinguishes this portion of the country, I
have been greatly surprised. I passed several
comparatively barren tracts which were suffered
to sustain what wood they might, and 1 saw ridges
of uneven, broken land, that probably still lay in
their native shades ; but the character of the whole
district was that of a succession of fields, sprinkled
with houses, and embellished with little groves,
that were reserved for the domestic supply of

MOOD — FEUTIMTY OF SPOTS, F.TC.

71)

their respective owners, hideed, in some quar-
ters, there actually appeared less wood than was
necessary, when it is remembered the inhabitants
use little other fuel, and how expensive the trans-
portation of an article so heavy soon becomes.

I should not describe New England as a par-
ticularly fertile region. A large proportion of
its surface, at least of the part I saw, was rugged
and difficult of tillage, though but little of it was
positively sterile. It is rather a grazing, than a
grain country. For the former, it is well adapted ;
the land apparently producing rich and sweet
grasses in almost every quarter. There were,
however, large districts of deep alK vial soil,
where any plant that will thrive in this climate
might be successfully grown. I scarcely remem-
ber so beautiful a country, or a more fertile look-
ing one, than some of that I passed along the bor-
ders of the Connecticut. The river bottoms
were loaded with their products, and the adjacent
swells were every where crowned with evidences
of the abundance they had lavished on their pos-
sessors, in the shape of well- stored barns and
spacious and comfortable dwellings. In this ex-
cursion I first saw extensive and luxuriant fields
of that favourite American plant — the maize. It
is deemed an infallible test of the quality of the
soil, no less than of the climate, throughout most
of the Union. Where maize will not grow, the
husbandman is reluctant to dwell. It furnishes a

.^^1

AfAlZK — \F.W ].:\Gr,AND VILLAGE.^.

I ■

healthful nourishment for man and beast, nor is
there any useful animal that will not thrive upon
its food. I do not think I passed a solitary farm
that had not more or less maize in cultivation. It
is universally called *' corn* par cicetlence. As
it is indigenous to the country, sometimes the
word Indian is prefixed. But when an American
says ** corn," he invariably means ** maize." It
is a splendid plant as it grows in this country, sur-
passing in appearance any other that appertains to
husbandry. It is said to be still finer and more
luxuriant to the south, but to me^ there was great
pleasure, as I saw it here, in gazing at its broad,
gracefully curving, dark green blades, as they
waved in the wind. It was in the tassel, and its
ordinary height could not be much less than eight
feet. Many fields must have exceeded this
growth.

New England may justly glory in its villages !
Notwithstanding the number of detached houses
that are every where seen, villages are far from
unfrequent, and often contain a population of
some two or three thousand. In space, fresh-
ness, an air of neatness and of comfort, they far
exceed any thing I have ever seen, even in the
mother country. With now and then an excep-
tion of some one among them that possesses a
more crowded, commercial, or manufacturing
population, than common, they all partake of the
same character. I have passed, in one day, six

N Alt' lit; 01 TIIK SI i:\tuv.

or seven of these beautiful, tranquil and enviable
looking hamletSj lor not one of which have I been
able to recollect an equal in the course of all my
European travelling. They tell me, here, that
villages, or small towns, abound in the newer
portions of the northern and western states, that
even eclipse those of Nev England, since they
unite, to all the neatness and space of the latter,
the improvements of a still more modern jorigin.

In order to bring to your mind's eye a sketch
of New England scenery, you are to draw upon
your imagination for the following objects. Fancy
yourself on some elevation that will command the
view of a horizon that embraces a dozen miles.
The country within this boundary must be undu-
lating, rising in bold swells, or occasionally exhi-
biting a broken, if not a ragged surface. But
these inequalities must be counterbalanced by
broad and rich swales of land, that frequently
spread out into lovely little vallies. If there be a
continued range of precipitous heights in view, let
it be clad in the verdure of the forest. If not, wood
must be scattered in profusion over the landscape,
in leafy shadows that cover surfaces of twenty
and thirty acres. Buildings, many white, relieved
by "Venetian blinds in green, some of the dun
colour of time, and others of a dusky red, must
be seen standing amid orchards, and marking, by
their positions, the courses of the numberless
highways. Here and there, a spire, or often two,

VOL. I.

fft^lll

E ii^

Hil

n *f*

li'

1i ■

'-■

i|fMf

A NEW ENGLAND LANDSCAPE.

may be seen pointing towards the skies from the
centre of a cluster of roofs. Perhaps a line of
blue mountains is to be traced in the distance, or
the course of a river to be followed by a long
succession of fertile meadows. The whole country
is to be subdivided by low stone walls, or wooden
fences, made in various fashions, the quality of
each improving, or deteriorating, as you approach,
or recede from the dwelling of the owner of the
soil. Cattle are to be seen grazing in the fields,
or ruminating beneath the branches of single trees,
that are left for shade in every pasture, and flocks
are to be seen clipping the closer herbage of the
hill sides. In the midst of this picture must man
be placed, quiet, orderly, and industrious. By
limiting this rural picture to greater, or less ex-
tensive, scenes of similar quiet and abundance,
or occasionally swelling it out, until a succession
of villages, a wider range of hills, and some
broad valley, through which a third rate Ame-
rican river winds its way to the ocean, are in-
cluded, jour imagination can embrace almost
every variety of landscape I beheld in the course
of my journey.

Concerning the character of the people, you
cannot expect me to write very profoundly on so
short an acquaintance. In order, however, that
you may know how to estimate the value of the
opinions I shall venture to give, it is necessary
that you should learn the circumstances under

1
r

INTERCOUUSE WITH THE PEOPLE.

which they have been formed. Before parting
from Cadwallader, I requested he would give me
some brief written directions, not only of the route
I was to pursue, but of the manner in which I
was to regulate my intercourse with the people.
I extract the substance of his reply, omitting the
line of route he advised, which is already known
to you.

" As respects intercourse with the inhabitants,
your path is perfectly plain. You speak the lan-
guage with what we call the intonation of an
Englishman. In America, while there are pro-
vincial, or state peculiarities, in tone, and even in
the pronunciation and use of certain words, there
is no patois. An American may distinguish be-
tween the Georgian and the New Englandman, but
you cannot. In this particular our ears are very
accurate, and while we can, and do pass for
natives every day in England, it is next to im-
possible for an Englishman to escape detection
in America. Five out of six of the whole English
nation, let them be educated ever so much, re-
tain something of the peculiarity of their native
county. The exceptions are much fewer than they
suppose themselves, and are chiefly in the very
highest circles. But there is also a slang of
society in England, which forms no part of the
true language. Most of those who escape the
patois, adopt something of the slang of the day.
There is also a fashion of intonation in the mother

G 2

ENCiLISH TUAVELLERS.

country which it is often thought vulgar to omit.
All these differences, with many others, which it
may be curious to notice hereafter, mark the
Englishman at once. I think, therefore, you
will be mistaken for a native of some of the less
accurate counties of England. It will, in conse-
quence, be necessary for you to be more on your
guard against offence than if you were thought a
German, or a Frenchman. The reasons for this
caution are perfectly obvious. It is not because
the American is more disposed to seek grounds of
complaint against his English visiter, but because
he has been more accustomed to find them."

" All young travellers are, as a matter of course,
grumblers ; but an Englishman is proverbially
the grumbler.. It is generally enough for him,
that he meets an usage different from that to
which he has been accustomed, to condemn it.
It is positively true, that an intelligent and highly
talented individual of that country, once com-
plained to me, that in the month of January the
days were so much shorter in New York than in
London!* His native propensity had blinded
him to the material fact, that the former city was
in 41°, while the latter lay 10° higher. Now,

* This mistake is not, in truth, as absurd as if first seems. The
twilight, in high latitudes, serves to eke out the day, so as greatly
to subtract from the amount of total darkness. Had the gentleman
in question chosen any other part of England than London, he might
have found some pretext for his opinion.

HOW SITUATED IN AMERICA .

the Englishman may grumble any where else
with more impunity than in America. In France,
in Germany, or in Italy, he is not often understood,
and half the time, a Frenchman, in particular, is
disposed to think his country is receiving com-
pliments, instead of anathemas. But with an
American, there can of course be no such mis-
take. He not only understands the sneer, but he
knows whence it comes. Though far from ob-
trusive on such occasions, it is not rare for the
offended party to retort, whenever the case will
admit of his interference. The consequence has
been, that, as a class, the English travellers now
behave themselves better in America than in any
other country. But a character has been gained,
and it will require a good deal of time to eradicate
it. The servant of the respectable Mr. Hodgson
tells his master that the people of the inns " are
surprised to find Englishmen behave so well." But
after all, with a great deal that is not only absurd,
but offensive, there is something that may be ex-
cused in the discontent of an Englishman, when
travelling in a foreign country. The wealth of an
immense empire has centered at home, in a com-
paratively diminutive kingdom, and he who can
command a tolerable proportion of that wealth
may purchase a degree of comfort that is certainly
not to be obtained out of it. But comfort is not
the only consequence of those broad distinctions
between the very rich, and the very poor. It is

tl;

it?!

NEW ENGLAND INN-KEEPERS.

saying nothing new, to say that the lower orders
of the English, more particularly those who are
brought in immediate contact with the rich, ex-
ceed all other Christians in abject servility to
their superiors. It may be new, but in reflecting
on the causes, you will perceive it is not sur-
prising, that on the contrary, the common Ame-
rican should be more natural, and less reserved
in his communications with men above him in the
scale of society, than the peasant of Europe. While
the English traveller, therefore, is more exacting,
the American labourer is less disposed to be sub-
missive than usual. But every attention within
the bounds of reason will be shewn you, though
it is not thought in reason, in New England espe-
cially, that one man should assume a tone of con-
firmed superiority over the rest of mankind,
merely because he wears abetter coat, or has more
money in his purse. Notwithstanding this stub-
born temper of independence, no man better
understands the obligations between him who
pays, and him who receives, than the nativ*^ of
New England. The inn-keeper of Old England,
and the inn-keeper of New England, form the very
extremes of their class. The one is obsequious
to the rich, the other unmoved, and often appa-
rently cold. The first seems to calculate, at a
glance, the amount of profit you are likely to leave
behind you ; while his opposite appears only to
calculate in what manner he can most contribute

HIS CHARACTER, SITUATION IN LIFE, ETC.

to your comfort, without materially impairing
his own. It is a mistake, however, that the
latter is filled with a sense of his own imagi-
nary importance. It troubles him as little
as the subject does any other possessor of a certain
established rank, since there is no one to dispute
it. He is often a magistrate, the chief of a
battalion of militia, or even a member of a state
legislature. He is almost always a man of cha-
racter ; for it is difficult for any other to obtain a
license to exercise the calling. If he has the pride
of conscious superiority, he is not wanting in its
principles. He has often even more : he has
frequently a peculiar pride in his profession. I
have known a publican, who filled a high and
responsible situation in the government of the
first state of this confederation, officiously convey
my baggage to a place of security, because he
thought it was his duty to protect my property
when under his roof. An English inn-keeper
would not have impaired his domestic importance
by such an act. He would have called upon
John, the head-waiter, and John would have
probably have bid Thomas Ostler, or Boots, to
come to his assistance. In both cases, the work
would be done, I grant you ; but under very dif-
ferent feelings. I profess to no more knowledge
of the boasted English inn-keeper, than what any
one may gain, who has travelled among them, in
every manner, from a seat on the top of a stage

t .Si-

■His
.Ml

^i:'

.\'

1 t

88 DIFIEIIENCE BETWEEN THE INN-KEEPERS.

coach, to one in a post-chaise and four. But,
with the publican of New England, I have a long
and intimate acquaintance, and I fearlessly affirm,
that he has been the subject of much and ground-
less calumny.''

" If servility, an air of einpressement, and a
mercenary interest in your comforts, form essen-
tials to your happiness and self-complacency,
England, with a full pocket, against the world.
But, if you can be content to receive consistent
civility, great kindness, and a tempered respect,
in which he who serves you consults his own
character no less than yours, and all at a cheap
rate, you will travel not only in New England,
but throughout most of the United States, with
perfect satisfaction. God protect the wretch,
whom poverty and disease shall attack in an Eng-
lish inn ! Depend on it, their eulogies have been
written by men who were unaccustomed to want.
It is even a calamity to be obliged to have a sav-
ing regard to the contents of your purse, under
the observation of their mercenary legions ! There
seems an intuitive ability in all that belongs to them,
to graduate your wealth, your importance, and
the extent of their own servility. Now, on the
other hand, a certain reasoning distinction usu-
ally controls the manner in which the American
inn-keeper receives his guests. He pays greater
attention to the gentleman than to the tin-pedlar,
because he knows it is necessary to the habits of

«ii

FEELINGS WHICH COVEKN INTERCOURSE. 89

the former, and because he thinks it is no more
than a just return for the greater price he pays.
But he is civil, and even kind, to both alike. He
sometimes makes blunders, it is true, for he meets
with characters that are new to him, or is required
to decide on distinctions of which he has no idea.
A hale, well-looking, active, and intelligent Ameri-
can, will scarcely ever submit his personal com-
forts, or the hourly control of his movements, to
the caprices of another, by becoming a domestic
servant. Neither would the European, if he could
do any thing better. It is not astonishing, there-
fore, that a publican, in a retired quarter of the
country, should sometimes be willing to think that
the European servants he sees, are entitled to eat
with their masters, or that he calls both ** gen le-
men." A striking and national trait in the Ameri-
can, is a constant and giVive regard to the feelings
of others. It is even more peculiar to New Eng-
gland, than to any other section of our country.
It is the best and surest fruit of high civilization.
Not that civilization which chisels marble and
gilds salonSy but that which marks the progress
of reason, and which, under certain circumstances,
makes men polished, and, under all, renders them
humane. In this particular, America is, beyond
a doubt, the most civilized nation in the world,
inasmuch as the aggregate of her humanity, intel-
ligence and comfort, compared with her numbers,
has nothing like an equal.

,'ifj

-. ! '< .

f ■

ADVICE TO TRAVELLERS.

" From these facts, you may easily glean a know-
ledge of the personal treatment you are likely to re-
ceive in your approaching excursion. There will be
an absence of many of those forms to which you
have been accustomed, but their place will be sup-
plied by a disinterested kindness, that it may re-
quire time to understand, but which, once properly
understood, can never be supplied by any meretri-
cious substitute. T never knew an American of
healthful feelings, who did not find more disgust
than satisfaction, in the obsequiousness of the
English domestics. For myself, I will avow that
the servility, which I can readily understand may
become so necessary by indulgence, gave me a
pain that you will, perhaps, find it diflScult to
comprehend. I do not say it may not be necessary
in Europe, particularly in England, but I do say,
thank God, it is not necessary here.

" It will be prudent, at all times, to treat those
who serve you with great attention to their feel-
ings. An instance may serve as an example. A
few years since, I was in a boat, on one of our in-
terior waters, accompanied by a fine, gentleman-
like, manly, aristocratic young Englishman. One
of the boatmen incommoded us with his feet.
• Go forward. Sir,' said my English companion,
in a tone that would have answered better on the
Thames, than on the Cayuga. The boatman
looked a little surprised, and a good deal deter-
mined. There was an evident struggle, between

ANECDOTE.

1)1

his pride and his desirt, not to give offence to a
stranger. * We have scarcely room here for our
feet,' I observed ; ' if you will go forward, we
shall be more comfortable.' ' Oh ! with all my
heart, Sir,' returned the man, who complied with-
out any further hesitation. The same individual,
if left to his own suggestions, or not assailed in
his pride, would probably have plunged into the
lake for our pleasure, and that, to, without
stopping to consider whether he was to get six-
pence for his ducking. With this single caution,
you may go from Maine to Georgia with perfect
safety, and, most of the distance, with sufficient
comfort; often with more even than in England,
and, generally, at a price which, compared with
what you receive, is infinitely below the cheapest
rate of travelling in any part of Europe. It is a
ludicrous mistake, that you must treat every
American as your companion in society, but it is
very necessary that he should be treated as your
equal in the eye of God."

I must leave you, for the moment, with this
morceau from the pen of Cadwallader, who writes
as he speaks, like a man who thinks better of his
countrymen than we have been accustomed to
believe they deserve. I must postpone, to my
next, the commentaries that my own trifling ex-
perience has suggested on his theory. — Adieu.

■i' *!j

■ i '

■ ■;

( 0'2 )

TO SIR EDWARD WALLER, BART.
Sfc. Sfc.

New York,

Although stages, as the public coaches are,
by corruption, called in this country, run on most
of the roads travelled in my recent journey, I de-
cided to make the excursion, at a little cost, in a
private conveyance. A neat, light, and rather
elegant pleasure-waggon on horizontal springs,
with a driver and a pair of fleet, well-formed
horses, were procured for five dollars a day. A
coach might have been had for the same sum.
This price, however, was the highest, and included
every charge. There was ample room for Fritz
and myself, with what baggage we needed, and
a vacant seat by the side of the coachman. Ca-
pacious leather tops protected us from the weather,
and good aprons could, if necessary, cover our
feet. In short, the vehicle, which is exceedingly
common here, is not unlike what is called a
double, or travelling, phaeton, in England. You
are to remember, there is no travelling post in
America. Relays of horses can certainly be had,
between the principal towns, at a reasonably short
notice ; but the great facility, rapidity, ease, and
cheapness of communication by steam-boats, will

ISLAND OF MANHATTAN'.

probably for a long time prevent posting from
coming into fashion.

We left Manhattan island, on which New York
stands, by a long wooden bridge that connects it
with the adjacent county of West-Chester. There
is a singular air of desertion about that portion of
this island which is not covered by the town, and
which I was inclined to ascribe to a sort of com-
mon expectation in its owners that the ground
would be soon wanted for other purposes than
plantations of trees, or pleasure grounds. It is
said, however, that a delay in the regulation of the
great avenues and future streets of the city, has
produced the apparent neglect. Let the cause be
what it may, I do not remember ever to have seen
the immediate environs of so large a town in such
a state of general abandonment. The island is
studded with villas, certainly ; but even most of
these seemed but little cared for. I did not, how-
ever, get a view of those which lie on the two
rivers.*

I found West-Chester a constant succession of
hills and dales, with numberless irregular little
vallies, though with nothing that, in English, is
called a mountain. The description I have given
you, in my last letter, of the general appearance of
New England, will answer perfectly well also for
this portion of New York. The villages were nei-

* Vast improvements have been made, in this part of the island,
within the last three years.

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1)4 THEMAVXEU TIIF, HKJIIWAVS A HE MAINTAFNED.

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thcr so beautiful, nor so numerous, as those I after-
wards passed ; but in the character of the land,
the situation and number of the farm-houses, the
multitude of highways, the absence of forests, and
the abundance of little groves, the two districts
are precisely the same. As respects the great
frequency of the public roads, the peculiarity is
subject to a very simple explanation. You will
remember the whole country is subdivided into
the small freeholds mentioned, and that each
citizen has a claim to have access to his farm.
Each township, as parishes, or cantons, are here
called, has the entire control of all the routes
within its own limits, unless the road be the pro-
perty of a chartered company. These highways
are periodically worked by the inhabitants, agree-
ably to a rate of assessment, '•iiich is regulated
according to the personal means of each individual.
Every thing of a public nature, that will readily
admit of such an intervention, is, in this republi-
can government, controlled by the people in their
original character. Thus, all the officers of each
town are annually elected, by its inhabitants, in
what are called " the town-meetings." These
officers comprise the assessors of taxes, their col-
lectors, the overseers of the highways, &c. &c.,
and, in short, the whole of its police, with, perhaps,
the exception of the magistrates, who receive their
appointments from different sources. Now, it is
evident, that when the power to construct and to

iiif

IlKASONS WHY TUF.Y AUE NOT ALWAYS DIUF.CT. 05

repair roads and bridges is removed, by so short
an interval, from those who are most affected by
their position and condition, that the public ser-
vants, as the officers arc here emphatically called,
must pay the utmost deference to the public will.
The ordinary routes of the country are, therefore,
arranged in such a manner as will most accom-
modate those who work tliCm. But, as this arrange-
ment must often produce conveniences that are
more likely to satisfy individuals than the public,
great routes that unite important points of the
country, are often substituted for the local high-
ways. These great routes are constructed on two
plans. In cases where the convenience of the
public requires it, laws are enacted for the pur-
pose by the legislatures, and the route is made
what is called a state-7'oad. In others, where it is
believed capitalists may be induced to invest
their money, charters are given, a rate of toll
established, and the road becomes the property of
a company. The latter are numerous in New
England, nor are the charges at all high.

It is evident that the labour of constructing the
vast number of roads and bridges which are
necessary to satisfy the public and private wants
of a community that does not exceed the popula-
tion of Prussia, throughout a country as large as
half Europe, must be exceedingly burthensome.
What I have already seen, however, has given me
the most respectful opinion of the native energy of

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ENTRANCE OF CONNECTICUT BORDKRS.

this people ; but I shall not anticipate impres-
sions, which may be increased, or, possibly,
changed, as I " prick deeper into the bowels of
the land." Thus far I can say, that no where, in-
cluding great routes and cross-roads, have I found
better highways than in New England, the mother
country alone excepted. If the former are not so
good as in England, the latter are, however, often
better. Perhaps I travelled at a favourable time
of the year ; but the bridges, the causeways, the
diggings, and the levellings, must be there at all
seasons.

On the morning of the second day, my coach-
man, while trotting leisurely along an excellent
path, through a retired part of the country, pointed
a-head with his whip, and told me we were about
to enter the State of Connecticut. One hand was
mechanically thrust into my pocket, in search of a
passport, and a glance of the eye was thrown at
the trunks, in order to recal the nature of the
contraband articles they might happen to contain.
A moment of thought recalled me to a sense of ray
actual position, and of the extraordinary extent of
the personal freedom in which I was indulged.
One of my first questions, on landing, had been to
inquire for the Bureau of the Police, in order to
obtain the necessary permission to remain in the
country, and to visit the interior. The individual
in the hotel, to whom I addressed myself, did not
understand me! Further inquiry told me that

EXEMPTIONS FllOivI VISITS OF THE POLICE. 97

such things were utterly unknown in America*
My baggage was passed at the Custom-house
without charge of any sort, except a trifling official
fee for a permit to land it ; nor did any one present
himself to ask or claim compensation for what I
could have done better without him. I paid a
cartman half a dollar for transporting the trunks
to my lodgings, where, assisted by the servants of
the house, they were placed in the proper room,
and then every body silently disappeared, as if no
more had been done than what was naturally
required by the circumstances. These were the
whole of the ceremonials observed at my landing
in America. My entrance into Connecticut was not
distinguished by any more remarkable incidents.
" When shall we reach the frontier ?" 1 asked of
the coachman, after a little delay. " I believe the
line is along the wall of that field," he said, point-
ing carelessly ^e//iW him. "What! is there
nothing else to distinguish the boundary between
two independent sovereignties ? No officers of
the customs, no agents of the police, nor any one to
ask us where we go, or whence we come ?'' The
driver looked at me, as if he distrusted my reason a
little ; but he continued mute. This silent passage
from one state to another, gave me the first true
impression I have obtained of the intimate nature
of the connection which unites this vast confedera-
tion. One may study its theory on paper for a
twelvemoiith, without arriving at >so just a con-

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VOL. I.

II ■

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98 CONNECTION OF THE DIFFERENT STATES.

ception of the identity of the national character
and interests of this people, as I have acquired in
visiting, in the same quiet manner, six of their
sovereignties, and in finding every where so great
a similarity of manners, customs, and opinions,
unmolested by a single official form. There is
something like it, certainly, in your own country ;
but you are governed by one prince, one minister,
and one parliament. Here, each state enacts its
own laws, levies its own taxes, and exercises all
the more minute and delicate functions of so-
vereign power. The United States of America is
the only civilized country, I believe, into which
a stranger can enter without being liable to
intrusions on his privacy by the agents of the
police.* Assuredly this power is now used,
throughout all Europe, with great discretion and
moderation ; but that country may deem itself
happy, that never feels any necessity for its exer-
cise. To what is this peculiar freedom owing?
To their position, their spare population, — to the
absence or to the height of civilization ? Columbia,
and Mexico, and Brazil, and a dozen others, are
just as remote from Europe, and far less populous.
Absence of civilization is not denoted by absence
of restraint, in countries where life, character, and
property are more than usually respected. I fear.
Waller, that we have been too apt to confound

* Possibly some of the British colonies can claim nearly the
same exemptions from the interference of the police.

11 i

PASSAOF OK A STATE FUONTIF.K.

y the

these Americans with their soil, and to believe
that, because the one is fresh, the other must also
exist in the first stages of society. At all events,
if not far beyond the rest of the world in the great
desiderata of order and reason, they have some
most ingenious methods of imposing on the senses
of a traveller, who, I can affirm, is often at an
utter loss to discover the machinery by which the
wheels of the social engine are made to roll on so
smoothly, so swiftly, and so cheap. T have not
seen a bayonet, (except among the militia who re-
ceived La Fayette,) a gendarme, a horse-patrole,
a constable, (to know him,) nor a single liveried
agent of this secret power. In short, if one should
draw somewhat literally on the ten command-
ments for rules to govern his intercourse with
those around him, so far as I can see, he might
pass his whole life here without necessarily arriv-
ing at the practical knowledge that there is any
government at all.

** Now we are in New York again," said my
driver, some ten or fifteen minutes after he had
assured me we had entered Connecticut. The
apparent contradiction was explained by a wind-
ing in the road, which had led us through the
extreme point of an angle of the latter state. 1
looked around me in every direction, in order to
discover if the least trace of any differences in
origin, or customs, could be seen. I remembered
to have heard Cadwallader say, that the effects of

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100 AMERICAN STATESMAN OF THE REVOLUTION.

the policy pursued by the different states, were
sometimes visible, to an observant traveller, at a
glance, and that he could often tell when he had
passed a state line, by such testimony as his eye
alone could gather. As I could not then, nor
Jiave not since, been able to detect any of these
evidences of a different policy, I am inclined to
think that the Americans themselves make some
such distinctions in the case, as those by which
the connoisseurs can tell the colouring of one
painter from that of another, or those by which
they know the second manner of the divine master
of the art from his third.*

Before leaving the state of New York the
second time, I had an opportunity of paying a
short visit to one of those distinguished men,
who, by acting with so much wisdom, moderation,
dignity, and firmness, during the dark days of
this republic, imparted to its revolution a repu-
tation that is peculiarly their own. I have ever
been an enthusiastic admirer of the conduct of
the Americans throughout those trying scenes.
They need not hesitate to place it with confidence
in comparison with any thing that history may
boast. The deeds of the eighteenth century are
less equivocal than the patriotism of Brutus, or
the clemency of Scipio. Men are far more likely
now to be judged by their acts than their words,

* A more intelligible distinction certainly became apparent be-
tween the slave-holding, and non-slave- holding states.

1:^

JOHN JAY.

101

int be-

though even this direct and literal people have
uttered sentiments, which, by their simplicity
and truth, are entitled to be placed on the same
page vv^ith the finest sayings of antiquity. The
agents of the British government, who wished to
tamper with the loyalty of a distinguished patriot,
received an answer that would have done honour
to any Roman. "Tell your employer," said the
stern republican, "that I am not worth buying;
but such as I am, the king of England is not rich
enough to make the purchase !"

The individual at whose residence I paid a
passing visit, as a species of homage due to
public virtue, was John Jay. This distinguished
statesman had discharged many of the public
trusts of his country, at a time when life and death
hung on the issue. He was President of Con-
gress during the war of the Revolution, before
the present system was adopted, and when the
country possessed no officer of higher dignity, or
greater power.* He was, however, early sent

* A mistake is often made in Europe, by blending this ancient
officer with the President of the United States. Before the present
constitution was adopted, (1789,) there was a President of Congress.
At present, Congress is divided into two branches, a Senate and a
House of Representatives, each of which has its presiding officer.
The Vice President of the United States is, ex officio, the head of the
Senate, though a substitute, to act on occasion, is always appointed,
who is called the President of the Senate. The style by which the
Vice-president is addressed in the Senate, is " Mr. President." The
House of Representatives has a Speaker, like the English parlia-
ment— he is addressed as •' Mr. Speaker." An individual who

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102 HIS SEKVICKS, AM) PKEStNT KKTI U F.AIENT.

on I'oreign missions of great delicacy, and of the
last importance. He resided a long time in Spain,
unacknowledged, it is true, but eminently ser-
viceable by the weight of his character, and the
steadiness of his deportment. He signed the
treaty of peace, (in conjunction with Franklin
and the elder Adams,) having a singularly im-
portant agency in bringing about that event which
secured an acknowledgment of his country's in-
dependence, and he negociated the first treaty of
commerce and amity with Great Britain. An
anecdote concerning the second of these treaties
had been related to me, which is worthy of repe-
tition, though I dare not give you any better
authority for its correctness, than to say that it is
of such a nature that 1 believe the circumstances,
as I am about to relate them, are essentially true.
Indeed, it was one of the chief inducements I felt
for intruding on the privacy of a man, whose past
life and present character impart a dignity that
should render his retirement almost sacred.
You undoubtedly know that, during the Ame-

belongs to the lower house is, in common parlance, called a mem-
ber of Congress, and one of the upper, a senator, or a member of
the Senate. These distinctions, with some trifling exceptions, are
observed in all the state legislatures, where the lieutenant governors
commonly perform the duties in the upper houses, that the vice-
president discharges in the Senate of the United States. Thus,
though there is a President of the United States, a President
of the Senate (the Vice President of the United States), and a
Speaker of the House of Representatives, there is no such officer
now known to the coiiniry as a "President of Congress,"

'i'

ANECDOTE OF THE TREATY OF 1783. 103

rican war, an alliance was formed between France
and the new power. One v-f the customary con-
ditions of this treaty was a stipulation that peace
should not be made by either party without the
consent of both. When England had become
sufficiently prepared by her reverses to listen to
amicable propositions, the American government
ordered their minister in Spain (Mr. Jay), and
their minister in Holland (Mr. Adams), to pro-
ceed to Paris, and by uniting themselves to the
minister in France (Dr. Franklin), to form a com-
mission authorized to manage the expected nego-
ciation on the part of the new republic. The
latter of these gentlemen had been long accredited
near the court of Versailles, where, by a happy
union of great simplicity of manners, wisdom, and
wit, he had become an object of singular admi-
ration and affection. But the Americans say,
that Franklin was a much better philosopher than
politician. Be this as it might, the story adds,
that France, now the drama was about to close,
began to cast about her for the profits of the re-
presentation. The Count de Vergennes had early
succeeded in persuading Dr. Franklin, that as
England could not, nor would not, formally ac-
knowledge the independence of America, his better
course would be to accept a trucey for twenty
years, at the end of which period his country
would be sufficiently strong to take what she
needed for herself. The philosopher is said to

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104

ANECDOTE. FRANKLIN, ITC.

have acquiesced in this opinion, and began to stir
his mighty reason in maturing the terms of this
remarkable truce. In this state of mind he was
found by Mr. Jay, on liis arrival from Madrid.
The latter was not slow to perceive the effects of
such a course, nor to detect the secret source
whence the insidious council flowed. His eyes
had not been dazzled by the splendour of a luxu-
rious court, nor his ears soothed by the flattery of
a polished nation. For a long time he had been
content to dwell m obscurity in Spain, sacrificing
every thing but his country's interests to his
manliness and directness of character. He had
steadily declined an interview with the king of
the latter country, because he could not be re-
ceived openly as an accredited minister. In
short, he had too long patiently submitted to mor-
tifications and retirement, rather than compromise
the character of his nation, to see the substance
at which he aimed so easily converted to a shadow.
Mr. Jay denounced the policy of the Count de
Vergennes, and declared that the unqualified
independence of his country must be a sine qua
nan in any treaty which bore his name. Mr.
Adams soon joined the negociation, and took the
side of independence. Franklin, who was at
heart a true patriot, suffered the film to be drawn
from his eyes, and perfect union soon presided in
their councils. But England had not been unap-
prised of the disposition of America to receive a

DtClSION OF THE A M KlUC A \ COMM ISSIONLU. 105

truce. Her commissioner, Mr. Oswald, appeared
with instructions to go no further. In this dilemma
a step is ascribed to Mr. Jay that I believe is as
remarkable for its boldness as for its good sense.
He is said to have written, with his own hand, to
the English Secretary of State, pointing out the
bad consequences to England herself, if she ad-
hered to her present policy. By keeping the
truce suspended over America, she forced that
country to lean on France for support ; whereas,
by admitting her, at once, into the rank of nations,
England would obtain a valuable customer, and
might also secure a natural friend. Thus in-
structed in a better policy, the English minister
saw his error, and the same courier who conveyed
the letter of Mr. Jay, returned with instructions
to Mr. Oswald to acknowledge the independence
of the United States. Finding themselves em-
barrassed by the evasions of Count de Vergennes,
believing they were betrayed, in the spirit of their
alliance at least, and knowing that France could
not find the smallest difficulty in settling her own
affairs without their agency, the American com-
missioners proceeded to sign a treaty of peace, in
the very teeth of their instructions, without the
knowledge of the French minister. When the
latter found that his policy had not succeeded, he
wrote a sharp note of remonstrance, which Dr.
Franklin laid before his brother commissioners.
It was much easier to perform a great act, like
the one in which they had been engaged, than

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106

OFFICES HELD BY JIU. JAY, ETC.

to word a proper reply to this communication.
There was but one ground on which their appa-
rent want of faith could be justified, and to give
that to the Count de Vergennes, might probably
be much more true than polite. After a good
deal of hesitation, they discovered that the letter
bore the simple superscription of Dr. Franklin,
and the colleagues of the latter imposed on
him the duty of answering a note, which they
gravely insisted was not officially addressed
to the commissioners. How well the philoso-
pher acquitted himself of this delicate affair,
my information does not say ; but though a vote
of censure on the commissioners was proposed in
Congress, their conduct was thought, under the
circumstances, so very justifiable, that it was
never passed. Now, I repeat, for all this I cannot
name my authority, since living men are parties
to the transaction, but 1 will again say, that it is
so respectable, that I believe the anecdote to be
substantially correct.

On his return from Europe, Mr. Jay for some
time filled the office of Minister for Foreign
Affairs. He took a distinguished part in forming
the present constitution of the United States. In
conjunction with Hamilton and Madison, he wrote
the celebrated essays under the signature of the
Federalist, which have since come to be a text-
book for the principles of the American govern-
ment. He was then made Chief Justice of the
United States, having been educated for the bar.

1 1

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OKHCIAI. HANK NUCKUTAIN tVIUENti:. 107

which office he resigned, in order to proceed to
England to negociate the treaty of commerce. He
was afterwards six years governor of his native
state (New York), after which he retired from
l)olitical life altogether, refusing the office of
Chief Justice again, which was offered to him by
his old coadjutor, Adams, then about also to
retire from the chair of the presidency of the
United States.

Since the latter period, near five and twenty
years, Mr. Jay has lived on the hereditary estate
where 1 saw him, enjoying the profound, and I
might almost say, idolatrous respect of all who
enter his private circle. As his manner of liv-
ing may serve to give you a better idea of the
usages of this country, I will endeavour to give a
short description of so much of it, as may be done
without violating that respect which is due to the
hospitality and frankness of my reception. I shall
merely premise, I have already discovered that
official rank, in this country, furnishes no certain
clue to the rank of an individual in ordinary society,
nor consequently to the style in which he may
choose to regulate his establishment. In order
that you ma^ understand me, however, it is
necessary that I should go a little into detail.

One hears a great deal in Europe of the equality
of the United States. Now, if you will make a
moderate allowance for the effects which are pro-
duced by the division of property on the death of

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108

HEASONS WHY IT SHOULD NOT.

its possessor, or the facility witli which estates are
acquired, and to the fact that no legal orders
exist in the community, you may, with a certain
qualification, take' the general rules which govern
the associations and habits of all other countries,
as applicable to this. In order, however, to
measure accurately the degree of influence the
circumstances just named produce, probably re-
quires a greater knowledge of America than I
possess. Though it is quite apparent that those
conventional castes which divide the whole civi-
lized world into classes, are to be found here, just
as they are in Europe, they appear to be separated
by less impassable barriers. The features of
society are substantially the same, though less
strongly marked. You, as an Englishman, can
find no difficulty in understanding, that the
opinions and habits of all the different divisions in
life may prevail without patents of nobility. They
are the unavoidable consequences of differences in
fortune, education and manners. In no particular,
that I can discover, does the situation of an Ame-
rican gentleman differ from that of an English
gentleman, except that the former must be con-
tent to. enjoy his advantages as a concession of the
public opinion, and not as a right. 1 can readily
believe that the American, whatever might be his
name, fortune, or even personal endowments,
who should arrogate that manner of superiority
over his less fortunate countrymen that the aris-

MISTAKE ly JUDGING AMERICAN' MANVKRS. 109

tocracy of your country so often assume to their
inferiors, would be in great danger of humiliation ;
but I cannot see that he is in any sense the less of
a gentleman for the restraint. I think I have
already discovered the source of a very general
error on the subject of American society. Short
as has been my residence in the country, I have
met with many individuals of manners and cha-
racters so very equivocal, as scarcely to know in
what conventional order they ought to be placed.
There has been so singular a compound of in-
telligence, kindness, natural politeness, coarse-
ness, and even vulgarity, in many of these per-
sons, that I am often utterly baffled in the attempt
to give them a place in the social scale. One is
ashamed to admit that men who at every instant
are asserting their superiority in intellect and infor-
mation, can belong to an inferior condition ; and
yet one is equally reluctant to allow a claim to
perfect equality, on the part of those who are
constantly violating the rules of conventional
courtesy. That the forms of even polite inter-
course, in this country, are different in very many
particulars from our own, is quite evident, but it
is far less apparent that Europe enjoys any very
decided advantage on this account. If I should
venture to give an opinion, thus early, on a ques-
tion that in its nature, is so very delicate, I should
say, that we give to hundreds of Americans a place
in their own society, which, in fact, they cannot

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110 GOVEUNMENT AND SOCfP-TY UNCON VKCTKD.

claim, merely because we discover in them certain
qualifications that few or none possess in Europe,
who are not actually members of her social elite.
But this is anticipating a subject on which I may
be much better prepared to write a twelvemonth
hence.

I have told you that official rank in America
has very little connection with rank in ordinary
society. This assertion, however, is liable to
some little exception. There are certain political
stations of so much dignity, as in a great measure
to entail on their possessors, and even on their
families, the indefinable privileges of caste, here as
'elsewhere, though from what I can learn this is far
fiom being invariably the case. Thus, while the
office of President of the United States, or of
governor of a State, will, in their very nature,
open the doors of most houses to their incumbents,
a man may be a member of Congress, or even a
Senator, and continue to fill his original station
in ordinary life. This, also, you, as an En-
glishman, ought to understand, nor will it be
much longer unintelligible in all those other coun-
trierj of Europe, where representative governments
are opening ihe avenues of political power to all
men. Indeed, in France, even under the old
regime, government and society were perfectly
distinct. No v, just as America is more democra-
tic in her institutions, just so much the more is
f his blending of conditions discernible in her dis-

rir.'i

AMERICAN COLONELS AND CITY WARRIORS. Ill

tribution of political favours. Your countrymen
are very apt to make themselves merry with the
colonel'} and majors that are innkeepers in Ame-
rica ; but really it appears to me that these people
have much the best right to laugh in the matter^
since they can find individuals fit to fill such sta-
tions, in a condition of life, that, in common, is
occupied by men qualified to do little or nothing
else than discharge the duties of their ordinary call-
ing. But you have had your train-bands, with
their pastry-cook, and fishmonger colonels, as well
as the Americans. I know of but two points, then,
in which you differ in this particular from the very
people whom you affect to ridicule. I have not
heard of any of your city warriors, who can shew
their scars, or who have ever encountered a danger
more formidable than effecting a defile in face of a
pump, without throwing their phalanxes into con-
fusion ; whereas, I have seen more than one Ame-
rican veteran perform the offices of a host, who
had faced with credit the best of your battalions,
and who makes a matter of honest boasting that
he has as often seen the back as the face of his
enemies, they too, having been both English and
French grenadiers. This is one, and no trifling
point of distinction between the two classes. The
other is, that your train-bands are rarely found
beyond the influence of the household troops, or
such other mercenaries as may serve to set them
a proper example of loyalty, while the Ameri-

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112 OPINION OF A VETKUAN, WHO KEPT AN INN'.

cans, unhesitatingly put arms into the hands of
all their people who are of an age to carry them.
I believe the latter, after all, is the true reason
why colonels and majors so much abound in this
country.

While crossing the state of Massachusetts the
last time, I passed a night in the house of one of
these military Bonifaces. He was precisely the
sort of man Cadwallader had described ; kind, in-'
dependent, unassuming in fact, but unyielding in
appearance ; a colonel in the militia, a member
of the state legislature, and, in short, one who at
need would give you his own blanket and think
no more of it, but who would refuse your money
unless it were offered with civility, and as a just
return for what he had bestowed. I passed a half
hour conversing with the old man, who had seen
a good deal of service during the wars of *56 and
'76. We spoke of the different military systems
pursued by England and America, and he not
only seemed willing to do justice to the troops of
the former, but he readily admitted that men
who did nothing but * train,* as he termed it,
ought to be better soldiers than militia who
entered the ranks but once or twice a year.
Encouraged by this concession, I ventured to
suggest it was possible that his nation is wrong
in her policy, and that she might do better to
imitate the example of other countries in her mili-
tary policy at least. His answer was certainly

ON J HE UTILITY OK STANDING AUMIF.S. 113

characteristic, and I thought it not without
some practical point. ** Each people to their
wants," he said. *' In Europe you keep large
standing armies because you can't hold together
without them, and I conclude you pay for it.
America has managed so far co do her own fight-
ing, nor do I see that she has much need of
doing that of any other people. As to the quality
of the troops, we often handled the French
roughly ; we drove the English out of the Bay
State in 76, and we have contrived to keep them
out ever since : so far as I can see, that is all we
want of a soldier, whether he be dressed in scarlet,
or a coat of brown homespun. As to keeping
order at home, we can still do that without using
our muskets, thank God." Now, whether a
nation that has managed to keep foreign invaders
from her shores, and to preserve the most perfect
order within her borders, without the agency of
any better colonels, than such as sometimes act as
innkeepers, is entitled to the respect, or to the
derision of the rest of the world, is a question I
leave to your philosophy. At all events, com-
munities which husband their resources, enjoy the
comfortable assurance of having them at com-
mand, when their possession may become a mat-
ter of the last importance.

But all this is leading me from the subject.
Although a description of the establishment of
Mr. Jay should not mislead you into an impression

VOL. I. I

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THE DWELLING OF MR. JAY.

that all those who have enjoyed public favour, in
this country, live in a similar manner, it is cer-
tainly more true as to those who have arrived to
the high dignities he once possessed. In point of
size and convenience, the dwelling of this distin-
guished American is about on a level with a third-
rate English country house, or a second-rate
French chateau. It has most of the comforts of
the former, with some luxuries that are not easy
to obtain in your island, and it is consequently
both inferior and superior to the latter, in very
many particulars. There is a mixture of use and
appearance in the disposition of the grounds, that
I am inclined to think very common about the
residences of gentlemen of this country. The
farm buildings, &c., though a Httle removed,
were in plain view, as if their proprietor, while he
was willing to escape from the inconveniences of
a closer proximity, found a pleasure in keeping
them at all times under his immediate eye. The
house itself was partly of stone, and partly of
wood, it having been built at different periods ;
but, as is usual here, with most of the better sort
of dwellings, it was painted, and having a comfort-
able and spacious piazza along its fagadCy another
common practice in this climate, it is not with-
out some pretension externally ; still its exterior,
as well as its internal character, is that of respec-
table comfort, rather than of elegance, or show.
The interior arrangements of this, no less than of

AKMORIAL BKARIXGS, LIVEIUKS, ETC.

115

most of the houses I have entered here, are de-
cidedly of an English character. The furniture
is commonly of mahogany, and carpets almost
universally prevail, summer and winter. There
is a great air of abundance in the houses of the
Americans generally, and in those of the wealthy,
it is mingled with something that we are apt to
consider luxurious. I might have counted ten or
twelve domestics about the establishment of Mr.
Jay, all quiet, orderly, and respectful. They were
both white and black. You probably know that
the latter are all free here, slavery having been
virtually abolished in New York.* The servants
wore no liveries, nor did I see many that did out
of the city of New York. Though sometimes given,
even there, they are far from frequent. They
are always exceedingly plain, rarely amounting to
more than a round hat with a gold or a silver band,
and a coat, with cuffs and collars faced with a
different cloth. Armorial bearings on carriages
are much more frequent, though Cadwallader tells
me it is getting to be more genteel to do without
even them. He says the most ancient and ho-
nourable families, those whose descent is univer-
sally known, are the first to neglect their use. I
saw the carriages of Mr. Jay, but their pannels
were witaout any blazonry. I remarked, how-
ever, ancient plate in the house that bore those
European marks of an honourable name, and

* It finally expired by law, July 4th, 1827.
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116

HUGUENOTS. FUENCH NAMtS.

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which I did not hesitate to refer to the period of
the Colonial government. Mr. Jay himself is of
French descent, his ancestor having been a re-
fugee from the religious persecution that suc-
ceeded the revocation of the edict of Nantes.
There are many families of similar descent in the
United States, and among them are some of tht,
first names of the country. I passed a little town
in the county of Westchester, that was said to
have been originally settled by emigrants from the
persecuted city of Rochelle. It bears the name
of New Rochelle , and to this hour, though much
blended by intermarriages with those of English
origin, the people retain something of the peculiar
look of their French ancestry. I saw on the signs,
the names of Guion, Renaud, Bonnet, Florence,
Flanderau, Coutant, &c. kc, all of which are
clearly French, though the sound is commonly so
perverted, that it may be said properly to belong
to no language. There are also one or two others
of these settlements in this state, and many more
in different parts of the Union, but their peculiar
national customs have long since been swallowed
in the overwhelmin-- influence of the English.
The language is entirely lost among these children
of France. I had, however, a trifling evidence of
the length of time ancient usages will linger in
our habits, even under the most unfavourable cir-
cumstances. My driver encountered, near New
Rochelle, aa old acquaintance, standing before

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HKMAINS OF A FRENCH TASTE IN A FARMER. 117

the door of his own habitation. The horses either
needed breath to mount a hill, or the worthy dis-
ciple of Phaeton chose to assume it. " Why do
you leave the stumps of those dead apple-trees in
your orchard?" demanded the coachman, who very
soon began to throw a critical eye over the hus-
bandry of his acquaintance. '* Oh ! I gather all
my morelles around their roots. Without the
mushrooms in the fall,* and the morelles in the
springs I should be as badly found as one of my
oxen without salt.'* '* Now, that is for his French
blood," said my driver to Fritz, while mounting
the hill ; " for my part, I count a man a fool who
will run the risk of being poisoned in order to
tickle his palate with a mushroom." I have been
told that these little peculiarities of their ancient
French habits were all that was national which
remained to the descendants of the Huguenots*
Their religion had even undergone a change ; the
original French Protestants being Calvinists,
whereas their descendants have almost all be-
come united to what is here called the Episco-
palian, or the Church of England.

I scarcely remember to have mingled with any
family, where there v/is a more happy union of
quiet decorum, and high courtesy, than I met
beneath the roof of Mr. Jay. The venerable
statesman himself is distinguished, as much now,
for his dignified simplicity, as he was, formerly,

* The Ameiicans commonly call the autumn the 'fall;' from,
the, ftiUing of the leaf. •

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118 SIMPLE AND DKJMFIED HABITS OF MR. JAY.

for his political sagacity, integrity, and firmness.
By one class of his countrymen he is never spoken
of without the profoundest respect. It is evident
that there are some who have been accustomed
to oppose him, though it is not difficult to see
that they begin to wonder why. During my
short stay beneath this hospitable roof several of
the yeomanry came to make visits of respect, or
of business, to their distinguished neighbour.
Their reception was frank and cordial, each man
receiving the hand of the ** Governor," as he is
called, though it was quite evident that all ap-
proached him with the reverence a great man
only can inspire. For my own part, I confess, I
thought it a beautiful sight to see one who had
mingled in the councils of nations, who had in-
structed a foreign minister in his own policy, and
who had borne himself with high honour and
lasting credit in the courts of mighty sovereigns,
soothing the evening of his days by these little
acts of bland courtesy, which, while they elevated
others, in no respect subtracted from his own
glory. His age and infirmities prevented as much
intercourse as I could have wished with such a
man, but the little he did communicate on the
scenes in which he had been an actor, was uttered
with so much clearness, simplicity, modesty, and
discretion, that one was left to regret that he could
not hear more.

There is a very general opinion in America,
that Mr. Jay has been much occupied, in later

NOTIONS OF THE EMPLOYMENT OF MK. JAY. 1 19

life, in writing on the prophecies. Of course this
is a subject on which I know nothing, but some-
thing occurred in the course of conversation which
strongly inclines me to hazard a conjecture that
they are not true. We were speaking of some
recent English works on the Apocalypse, when
he expressed, in general terms, his sense of the
fruitlessness of any inquiry, at the present hour,
into their hidden meaning. I am rather inclined
to think, that as this eminent man has endea-
voured so to model his life, that he may be
prepared for any, and every, development of the
mighty mystery, some curious, but incompetent
observers of his habits have mistaken his motive,
attributing that to a love of theory, which might,
with more justice, be ascribed to the humbler and
safer cause of practice. And here I must bid
adieu to this estimable statesman ; but before I
take leave of you, I will mention a queer enough
instance of the vagaries of the human mind, which
has recently come under my observation, and
which is oddly enough recalled by the connection
between Mr. Jay and his fancied avocations in
retirement. It furnishes another proof of the
precarious quality of all conjecture.

Every body has heard of Zerah Colburne, one
of those inexplicable prodigies, whose faculties
enable them to assume a command over the
powers of numbers that is, probably, quite as
much of a mystery to themselves, as to the rest

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120

ODD FACULTY IN ZF.llAll COLDUIIN'E.

of mankind. High expectations were raised of
the effects which education might produce on the
capacity of this boy. He went to England ; ex-
hibited ; calculated ; astonished every body ; was
patronized ; sent to school ; became a man ; re-
turned to his native country lately, and brought
back with him the literary offering of a tragedy !
I have seen the manuscript, and must say that
I think, for once at least, " he has missed a
figure." — Adieu.

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TO SIR EDWARD WALLER, BART.

New York,

The six North Eastern States of this great
union compose what is called New England.*
The appellation is one of convention, and is un-
known to the laws. It is a name given by a
King of England, who appeared willing to con-
ciliate that portion of his subjects, who had de-
serted their homes in quest of liberty of conscience,
by a high-sounding title. It will be remembered
that colonies of the Dutch and Swedes, at that
time, separated the northern possessions of the
English from those they held in Virginia. It is

* Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Vermont, Rhode Island,
and Connecticut.

NEW ENGLAND. GEOORA PIIIC AL LIMITS, ETC. 121

most probably owing to the latter circumstance that
the inhabitants of the New England provinces so
long retained their distinctive character, which was
scarcely less at variance with that of the slave-hold-
ing planters of the south, than with that of their
more immediate neighbours, the Dutch. The pacific
colonists of Penn brought with them but little to
soften the lines of distinction, and after New York
became subject to the Crown of Britain, it was
a mtlange of Dutch quietude and English aristo-
cracy. It was not until the Revolution had
broken down the barriers of provincial prejudices,
and cleared the way for the unrestrained exercise
of the true national enterprise, that these territorial
obstacles were entirely removed, and a thorough
amalgamation of the people commenced. A few
observations on the effect of this amalgamation,
and the influence it has had on the character of
the nation, may not be thrown away here. The
little I shall say is written under the inspection
of Cadwallader, confirmed, if not improved, by
my own observation.

The people of New England are, even to this
hour, distinguished among their own active and
quick-witted countrymen, for their enterprise,
frugality, order, and intelligence. The three latter
qualities, taken in conjunction, I believe they have
a right to claim to a degree that is elsewhere un-
equalled. The Scot and the Swiss, the Dane
and the Swede, the German, the Belgian, or even

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THE PEOPLE OF NEM' ENGLAND.

the Frenchman, may be often as frugal, but there
is always something of compulsion in European
frugality. The inhabitant of New England seems
thrifty on principle ; since he neglects no duty,
forgets no decency, nor overlooks any of the
higher obligations in order to save his money.
He is eminently economical and provident in the
midst of abundance. A sentiment of deep mo-
rality seems to influence his savings, which he
hoards, in order that the superfluity of his wealth
may be serviceable, as wealth should be, in se-
curing his own private respectability, and in
advancing the interests of the whole. No doubt,
in a great community, where economy is rigidly
practised as a virtue, some mistake its object,
and pervert a quality, which is so eminently
adapted to advance the general good, to the pur-
poses of individual rapacity. But it is impos-
sible to journey through New England and witness
its air of abundance, its decency, the absence of
want, the elevation of character, which is imparted
to the meanest of its people, without respecting
the sources whence they flow. A prudent and
discreet economy is, in itself, an evidence of a
reflecting and instructed being, as order is the
necessary attendant of abundance and thought.
You may form some estimate of the degree of
intelligence which is diff\ised throughout the com-
munity in New England, by the facts contained
in a report I lately read concerning the progress

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schools: quamty of instruction 123

of general instruction in Massachusetts. That
State contains nearly 600,000 souls, all of whom
(of proper age), with the exception of about 400,
could read and write. It is probable that the latter
number was composed chiefly of foreigners, blacks
from other States, and those who laboured under
natural disabilities. But reading, writing, and
arithmetic, are far from being the limits of the
ordinary instruction of the lower American schools.
A vast deal of useful and creditable knowledge,
moral and useful, is also obtained in learning
to read. I have known Cadwallader to say re-
peatedly, that in referring to familiar history and
geography, he invariably passes by all his later
acquisitions in the academies and university, to
draw upon the stores he obtained during his in-
fancy in one of the common schools of the country.
Perhaps, in this particular, he differs but little
from most educated men everywhere ; but it is
an important fact to remember that the children
of his father's tradesmen, and indeed of every
other man in the place, enjoyed precisely the
same means of obtaining this species of informa-
tion, as the son of the affluent landlord. He also
pointed out another important fact, as distinguish-
ing the quality of the knowledge acquired in the
schools of America from that which is obtained in
a similar manner, in most, if not all, of Europe.
There is no lethargy of ideas in this country.
What is known to one (under the usual limits of

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124

COMPARED WITH FRANCE.

learning) soon becomes the property of all. This
is strictly true, as respects all the minor acqui-
sitions of the school. It is also true as respects
every sudden and important political event, in any
quarter of the world. The former species of in-
formation is obtained through new and improved
editions of their geographies, hisUries, and gram-
ralars, and the latter through the powerful agency
of the public press. A new division of the German
empire, for instance, would be change enough to
circulate a new geography through all the schools
of America. Improved system ■> of arithmetic are
as numerous as the leaves on the trees, nor is
there any scarcity of annals to record the events
of the day. My companion pointed out the dif-
ference, between his own country and France for
instance, in this particular. He has three or
four young female relatives at school in the latter
country. Curiosity had induced him to bring
away several of the class-books that had been
put into their hands, in conformity to the system
which governs these matters there. In the history of
France itself, the Revolution is scarcely mentioned!
The reign of Napoleon is passed over in silence,
and the events of 1814 and 1815 consigned to an
oblivion, which does not conceal the siege of Troy.
One can understand the motives of this doubtful
policy ; but Cadwallader pointed out defects in
the geographies, which can only be accounted for
on the grounds of utter indifference. One example

ACTIVITY OF THOUGHT IN AMERICA.

125

shall suffice for numberless similar instances of
gross and culpable neglect, since it could not be
ignorance, in a country where the science of geo-
graphy is certainly as well understood as in any
other part of the earth. With an excusable sen-
sitiveness, he shewed me, in a recent edition of
an authorized geography, the account of his own
confederation. It is said to be composed of
eighteen states, though twenty-one are actually
named, and twenty -four y in truth, existed ! Even
the palpable contradiction seems to have escaped
the proof-readers of the work. Now this book, ex-
cessively meagre in itself, is put into the hands of
the future mothers of France. Their own kingdom
is certainly dealt with a little more liberally ; but,
though it is perhaps the highest effort of human
knowledge, to know one's self, in order to a right
undeVstanding of our own character, it is abso-
lutely necessary to have a pretty intimate ac-
quaintance with those of other people. I speak
understandingly, when I tell you, that the geo-
graphies and modern histories which are read by
the commonest American children, are vastly-
more minute and accurate than those read in most
of the fashionable pensions of Paris.

The effects of this diffusion of common instruc-
tion is pre-eminently apparent throughout New
England, in the self-respect, decency, order, and
individuality of its inhabitants. I say indivi-
duality, because, by giving ideas to a man, you

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126

RELUCTANCE OF EUROPE

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impart the principles of a new existence, which
supply additional motives of concern to his respec-
tability and well-being. You are not to suppose
that men become selfish by arriving nearer to a
right understanding of their own natures and true
interests, since all experience proves that we
become humane and charitable precisely as we
become conscious of our own defects, and obtain
a know?edge of the means necessary to repair
then*. A remarkable example of this truth is to
be found in New England itself. Beyond a doubt,
no where is to be found a population so well
instructed, in elementary knowledge, as the
people of these six states. It is equally true, that
I have no where witnessed such an universality
of that self-respect which preserve? men from
moral degradation. I very well know that in
Europe, while we lend a faint attention to these
statements concerning American order and pros-
perity, we are fond of seeking causes which shall
refer their origin to circumstances peculiar to her
geographical situation, and which soothe our self-
love, by enabling us to predict their downfall,
when the existence of European pressure shall
reduce the American to the level of our own
necessities. I confess, I entered the country with
very similar impressions myself ; but nearer ob-
servation has disturbed a theory which is generally
adopted, because it is both consolatory and simple.
We are apt to say that the ability of the Ameri-

TO BELIEVE IN AMERICAN ORDER.

127

cans to maintain order at so little cost of money
and personal freedom, is derived from the thin-
ness of population and the absence of want : but
the American will tell you it proceeds from the
high civilization of his country, which gives to
every member of the community a certain interest
in its quiet and character. I confess, I was
a little startled to hear a people who scarcely
possess a work of art that attains to mediocrity, —
among whom most of the sciences are compara-
tively in their infancy, — who rarely push learn-
ing beyond its practical and most useful points,
and who deal far less in the graces than in the
more simple forms of manners, speak of their
pre-eminent civilization with so evident a com-
placency. But there is a simple dignity in moral
truths, that dims the lustre of all the meretricious
gloss which art and elegance can confer on life.
I fear that it is very possible to live in a gilded
palace — to feast the eyes on the beau ideal of form
and proportions, — to be an adept in the polished
deceptions of conventional intercourse, — to smile
when others smile, and weep when others weep, —
to patronize and to court, — to cringe and to do-
mineer, in short, to reach the ne plus ultra of
eastern refinement, and still to have a strong flavour
of barbarity about one after all. There can be no
true humanity, which is the essence of all civiliza-
tion, until man comes to treat and consider man
as his fellow. That society can never exist, or.

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OBJECT OF GOVERNMENT,

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at least, that it could never advance, under a too
fastidiously strict interpretation of thi j duty, needs
no proof, since all incentive to exertion would be
deadened in a condition where each member of
the community had an equal right to participate
in the general abundance. The great desideratum
of the social compact would then seem to be, to
produce such a state of things as shall call the
most individual enterprise into action, while it
should secure a proper consideration for the in-
terests of the whole ; — to avail of the talents of
the gifted few, while the long train of humbler
beings shuU have scope and leisure also for the
privileges of their xiiortality : in short, to profit
by the suggestions of policy, without forgetting
the eternal obligations of humanity. 1 f a union of
the utmost scope to individual enterprise with the
most sacred regard to the rights and feelings of
the less fortunate of our species, be any evidence
of an approximation to this desired condition of
society, I think the inhabitant of New England
has a better right to claim an elevated -^tate of
being than any other people I have ever visited.
The activity of personal efforts is every where
visible on the face of the land, in their comforts,
abundance, improvements, and progressive wealth,
while the effect of a humanity that approaches
almost to refinement, was felt at every house I
entered. Let me not be misunderstood : I can
readily conceive that an European gentleman,

HABITS AND MANNERS OF NEW ENGLAND. 129

who had not been, like myself, put on his guard,
would have found numberless grounds of com-
plaint, because he was not treated as belonging
to a superior class of beings by those with whom
he was compelled to hold communication. Ser-
vility forms no part of the civilization of New
England, though civility be its essence. T can
say with truth, that after traversing the country
for near a thousand miles, in no instance did I
hear or witness a rude act : not *^he slightest im-
position was practised, or r/ttempted, on my
purse ; all my inquiries were heard with patience,
and answered with extraordinary intelligence :
not a farthing was asked for divers extra services
that were performed in my behalf; but, on the con-
trary, money offered in the way of douceurs was
repeatedly declined, and that too with perfect
modesty, as if it were unusual to receive rewards
for trifles. My comforts and tastes, too, were
uniformly consulted ; and, although I often tra-
velled in a portion of the country that was but
little frequented, at every inn I met with neat-
ness, abundance, and a manner in which a desire
to oblige me was blended with a singular respect
for themselves. Nor was this rare combina-
tion of advantages at all the effect of that sim-
plicity which is the attendant of a half-civilized
condition; on the contrary, I found an intel-
ligence that surprised me at every turn, and
which, in itself, gave the true character to the

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DIFFUSIVE INTEI.LIGEXCE.

humanity of which I was the subject. 1 re-
peatedly found copies of your standard English
authors, in retired dwellings where one would
not expect to meet any production of a cast
higher than an almanack, or a horn-book ; nor
were they read with that acquiescent criticism
which gives a fashion to taste, and which makes a
joke of Moliere better than a joke of any other
man. Young women (with whom my situation,
no less than my tastes, oftenest brought me into
literary discussions) frequently surprised me with
the extent of their acquaintance with, and the
soundness of their opinions concerning the merits
and morality of Pope and Addison, of Young and
Tillotson, and even of Milton and Shakspeare.
This may sound to you ridiculous, and certainly, if
taken without a saving clause for the other ac-
quirements of my female critics, it is liable to some
exception ; but I repeat I have often known pro-
fessed blues acquit themselves with less credit than
did several of my passing acquaintances at the
tea-tables of different New England inns. I can,
however, readily conceive that a traveller might
pass weeks in this very portion of the country, and
remain profoundly ignorant of all these things. In
order to acquire information one must possess the
disposition to learn. I sought out these traits of
national character, and I flatter myself that by
the aid of good dispositions, and a certain some-
thing that distinguishes all of our fraternity in the

OMISSIONS OF MOST TRA VKLLKIIS.

311

presence of the softer sex, a commendable pro-
gress, in reference to the time and opportunity,
was always made in their kind estimation. The
great roads, as I have said, and as you well know,
are rarely favourable in any country to an ac-
curate acquaintance with the character of its inha-
bitants. One may arrive at a general know-
ledge of the standard of honesty, disinterestedness,
and civilization of a people, it is true, by mingling
with them in much frequented places, for these
qualities are always comparative ; but he who
would form an opinion of the whole by such
specimens, must do it under the correction of
great allowances. I believe the New Englandman,
however, has less reason than common to deprecate
a general decision of this nature. A good deal of
my journey was unavoidably on a great route, and
though I found some inconveniences, and rather
more difficulty in penetrating their domestic re-
serve there, than in the retired vallies of the
interior, still the great distinctive features of the
population were every where decidedly the same.
It s worthy of remark that nearly all of the En-
glish travellers who have written of America, pass
lightly over this important section of the Union.
Neither do they seem to dwell with much com-
placency on those adjoining states, where the ha-
bits and characteristics of New England prevail to
a great extent, through the emigrants or their im-
mediate descendants. I am taught to believe that,

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132 PIIOPOHTION OF NLW ENGLAND POPULATION.

including the inhabitants of the six original states,
not less than four millions of the American people
are descended from the settlers of Plymouth, and
their successors. This number is about four-
tenths of the white population. If one recalls the
peculiar energy and activity which distinguish
these people, he may be able to form some idea of
their probable influence on the character of the
whole country. The distinctive habits of the Dutch,
which lingered among the possessors of the ad-
joining province of New York even until the com-
mencement of the present century, have nearly
disappeared before the tide of eastern emigration ;
and there is said to be scarcely a state in the whole
confederation which has not imbibed more or less
of the impetus of its inexhaustable activity.

Suspicion might easily ascribe an unworthy
motive to a silence that is so very uniform on the
part of interested observers. Volumes have been
written concerning the half-tenanted districts of
the west, while the manners and condition of the
original states, where the true effects of the Ame-
rican system can alone be traced, are usually dis-
posed of in a few hurried pages. It is true there
are some few of the authors in my collection, who
have been more impartial in their notices, but
most of them appear to have sought so eagerly for
subjects of derision, as to have overlooked the
more dignified materials of observation. Even the
respectable Mr. Hodgson, who seems at all times

OMISSION OF MR. HODGSON.

133

ready to do justice to the Americans, has con-
tented himself with giving some thirty or forty
pages to the state of New York, and disposes of all
New England (if the extraneous matter be de-
ducted), Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Ohio, in
about the same space that he has devoted to a
passage through the wild regions on the Gulf of
Mexico. Though the states just mentioned make
but a comparatively indifferent figure on the map,
they contain nearly, if not quite, half of the entire
population of the country. If to this be added
the fact, that in extent they cover a surface about
equal to that of the kingdom of France, one may
be permitted to express some surprise that they
are usually treated with so little deference. An
American would be very much inclined to ascribe
thisj uniform neglect to an illiberality which
found no pleasure in any description but cari-
cature, though I think few of them would judge
80 harshly of the author whose name I have just
mentioned. As Cadwallader expressed it, even the
mistakes of such a man are entitled to be treated
wit\ respect. A much more charitable, and in
the instance of Mr. Hodgson, I am fully persuaded
a more just explanation would be to ascribe this
apparent partiality to the woods, rather to a love
of novelty, than to any bare thirst of detraction.
There is little to appease the longings of curiosity,
even in the most striking characteristics of com-
mon sense : nor does a picture of the best endowed

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134

INFLUENCE OF NEW ENGLAND CHARACTER.

a.nc^ most rational state of being, present half the
attractions to our imaginations, as one in which
scenes of civilization are a little coloured by the
fresher and more vivid tints of a border life.

Still he who would seek the great moving prin-
ciples which give no small part of its peculiar tone
to the American character, must study the people
of New England deeply. It is there that he will
find the germ of that tree of intelligence which has
shot forth so luxuriantly, and is already shading
the land with its branches, bringing forth most
excellent fruits. It is there that religion, and
order, and frugali 'y, and even liberty, have taken
deepest root: and n^ liberal American, however he
may cherish some of the peculiarities of his own
particular state, will deny them the meed of these
high and honourable distinctions. It may be pre-
mature in one who has kept aloof from their large
towns, to pronounce on the polish of a people
whom he has only seen in the retirement and sim-
plicity of the provinces. Their more southern
neighbours say they are wanting in some of the
nicer tact of polite intercourse, and that however
they may shine in the more homely and domestic
virtues, they are somewhat deficient in those of
manner. I think nothing, taken with a certain
limitation, to be more probable.

I saw every where the strongest evidences of a
greater equality of condition than I remember
ever before to have witnessed. Where this

l|§;.y

EQUALITY OF CONDITION AND ITS EFFKCTS. J 35

equality exists, it has an obvious tendency to bring
the extremes of the community together. What
the peasant gains, the gentleman must in some
measure lose. The colours get intermingled,
where the shades in society are so much softened.
Great leisure, nay, even idleness, is perhaps
necessary to exclusive attention to manner. How-
few, dear Waller, excel in it, even in your own
aristocratic island, where it is found that a man
needs no small servitude in the more graceful
schools of the continent, to figure to advan-
tage in a saloon. Perhaps there is something in
the common habits of the parent and the child
that is not favourable to a cultivation of the graces.
Institutions which serve to give man pride in him-
self, sometimes lessen his respect for others : and
yet I see nothing in a republican government
that is at all incompatible with the highest possi-
ble refinement. It is difficult to conceive that a
state of things which has a tendency to elevate
the less fortunate classes of our species, should
necessarily debase those whose lots have been cast
in the highest. The peculiar exterior of the New
Englandman may be ascribed with more justice
to the restrained and little enticing manners of
his puritan ancestors. Climate, habits of thrift,
and unexampled equality of rights and fortune,
may have aided to perpetuate a rigid aspect.
But after all, this defect in manner must, as I
have already said, be taken under great limita-

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13G GROSS CAUICATURE OF THEIR MANNERS.

tion. Considered in reference to every class
below those in which, from their pursuits and
education, more refinement and tact might cer-
tainly be expected, it does not exist. On the
contrary, as they are more universally intelligent
than their counterparts in the most favoured Euro-
pean countries, so do they exhibit, in their de-
portment, a happier union of self-respect with
consideration for others. The deficiency is oftener
manifested in certain probing inquiries into the
individual concerns of other people, and in a
neglect of forms entirely conventional, but which
by their generality have become established rules
of breeding, than by any coarse or brutal trans-
gressions of natural politeness. The former
liberty may indeed easily degenerate into every
thing that is both repulsive and disagreeable ; but
there is that in the manner of a New England-
man, when he most startles you by his familiarity,
which proves he means no harm. The common,
vulgar account of such questions, as " How far
are you travelling, stranger? 'dnd where do you
come from ? and what may your name be ?" if
ever true, is now a gross caricature. The New
Ensflanaman is too kind in all his habits to call
2Liiy msin stratiger.* His usual address is "friend,"
or sometimes he compliments a stranger of a

* Cadwallader told me that this appellation is, indeed, used in
the new states to the south-west, where it is more apposite, and
subsequent observation has confirmed the fact.

W ■'

PROVERDIAL CUllIOSITY OF THE PEOPLE.

137

gentlemanly appearance, with the title of ''squire."
1 sought the least reserved intercourse that was
possible with them, and in no instance was I the
subject of the smallest intentional rudeness.* I say
intentional, for the coun^^ry physician, or lawyer, or
divine (and I mingled with them all), was igno-
rant that he trespassed on the rules of rigid
breeding, when he made allusions, however
guarded, to my individual movements or situation.
Indeed I am inclined to suspect that the Ameri-
cans, in all parts of the Union, are less reserved
on personal subjects than we of Europe, and pre-
cisely for the reason that in general they bive
less to conceal. I cannot attribute a coarser
motive than innocent curiosity, to the familiar
habits of a people who in every other particular
are so singularly tender of each other's feelings.
The usage is not denied even by themselves ; and
a professor of one of their universities accounted
for it in the following manner. The people of
New England were, and are still, intimately allied
in feeling no less than in blood. Their enterprise
early separated them from each other by wide
tracts of country; and before the introduction of
journals and public mails, the inhabitants must
have been dependent on travellers for most of their
passing intelligence. It is not difficult to conceive

* It is singular that every English traveller the writer has read,
in the midsi of all his exaggerations, either directly or indirectly
admits this fact.

(■■ii

138 I'ECULIAR COURTESY OF THE INHABITANTS.

1., i

I 1.:

that, in a country where thought is so active, in-
quiry was not suffered to slumber. You may pro-
bably remember to have seen, when we were last
at Pompeii, the little place where the townsmen
were said to collect in order to glean intelligence
from upper Italy. A similar state of things must,
in a greater or less degree, have existed in all
civilized countries before the art of printing was
known ; and, in this particular, the only difference
betv/een New and Old England probably was,
that as the people of the former had more ideas
to appease, they were compelled to use greater
exertions to attain their object. But apart from
this, I will confess startling familiarity, there was
a delicacy of demeanour that is surprising in a
population so remote from the polish of the large
towns. I have often seen the wishes of the
meanest individual consulted before any trifling
change was made that might be supposed to affect
the comfort of all. In this species of courtesy,
I think them a people unequalled. Scarcely any
one, howevoi elevated his rank, would presume to
make a change in any of the dispositions of a
public coach, (for I left my waggon for a time,)
in a window of a hotel, or indeed in any thing in
which others might have an equal concern, with-
out a suitable deference to their wishes. And yet
I have seen the glance of one woman's eye, and
she of humble condition too, instantly change the
unanimous decision of a dozen men. By the

THE SITUATION OF WOMEN.

139

hand of the fair Isabel, Waller, there is something
noble and touching, in the universal and yet
simple and unpretending homage with which
these people treat the weaker sex. I am sure a
woman here has only to respect herself in order
to meet with universal deference. I now under-
stand what Cadwallader meant when he said that
America was the real Paradise of woman. The
attention and manliness which he exhibited for
the Abigail of the little Isabel, is common to the
meanest man, at least in New England. I
traversed the country in harvest time, and scarcely
recollect to have seen six females in the fields, and
even they appeared there only on the emergency
of some passing shower. When one considei's
the price which labour bears, this solitary fact is
in itself pregnant with meaning. A little boy
whom I conveyed with his father in my waggon
a dozen miles, (for I neglected no opportunity to
mix with thejpeople,) laughed aloud as he pointed
with his finger and cried, ** There is a woman at
work among the men !" Had he seen her riding
a war horse * en militaire,' he could scarcely have
been more amused. After all, what nobler or
more convincing proof of high civilization can be
given than this habitual respect of the strong for
the weak. The condition of women in this coun-
try is solely owing to the elevation of its moral
feeling, ^ As she is never misplaced in society, her
influence is only felt in the channels of ordinary

140

DEVOTION TO THEIR FAMILIES.

and domestic life. I have heard young and silly
Europeans, whose vanity has probably been
wounded in finding themselves objects of secon-
dary interest, affect to ridicule the absorbed
attention which the youthful American matron
bestows on her family ; and some have gone so
far in my presence, as to assert that a lady of this
country was no more than an upper servant in
the house of her husband. They pay us of the
eastern hemisphere but an indifferent compli-
ment, when they assume that this beautiful devo-
tion to the first, the highest, and most lovely office
of the sex, is peculiar to the women of station in
America only. I have ever repelled the insinua-
tion as becomes a man ; but, alas ! what is the tes-
timony of one who can point to no fireside, or
household of his own, but the dreaming reverie of
a heated brain. Imaginary or not, I think one
might repose his affections on hundreds of the
fair, artless creatures he meets with here, with an
entire confidence that the world has not the first
place in her thoughts. To me, woman appears
to fill in America the very station for which she
was designed by nature. In the lowest conditions
of life she is treated with the tenderness and
respect that is due to beings whom we believe to
be the repositories of the better principles of our
nature. Retired within the sacred precincts of
her own abode, she is preserved from the destroy-
ing taint of excessive intercourse with the world.

RETIREMENT FROM THE WORLD.

141

She makes no bargains beyond those which supply
her own little personal wants, and her heart is
not early corrupted by the baneful and unfeminine
vice of selfishness; she is often the friend and
adviser of her husband, but never his chapman.
She must be sought in the haunts of her domestic
privacy, and not amid the wranglings, deceptions,
and heart-burnings of keen and sordid traffic. So
true and general is this fact, that I have remarked
a vast proportion of that class who frequent the
markets, or vend trifles in the streets of this city,
occupations that are not unsuited to the feebleness
of the sex, are either foreigners, or females de-
scended from certain insulated colonies of the
Dutch, which still *-etain many of the habits of
their ancestors amidst the improvements that are
throwing them among the forgotten usages of
another century. The effect of this natural and
inestimable division of employment, is in itself
enough to produce an impression on the charac-
ters of a whole people. It leaves the heart and
principles of woman untainted by the dire tempta-
tions of strife with her fellows. The husband can
retire from his own sordid struggles with the world
to seek consolation and correction from one who
is placed beyond their influence. The first im-
pressions of the child are drawn from the purest
sources known to our nature ; and the son, even
long after he has been compelled to enter on the
thorny track of the father, preserves the memorial

ill

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142

INFLUENCE OF M'OMEN IN SOCIETY.

of the pure and unalloyed lessons that he has re-
ceived from the lips, and, what is far better, from
the example of the mother. Though every pic-
ture of life in which these bright colours are made,
the strongest must be deadened by deep and pain-
ful shadows, I do firmly believe that the undeni-
Me truth I have just written may be applied with
as much, if not with more justice, to the condition
and influence of the sex in New England as in
any portion of the globe. I saw every where the
utmost possible care to preserve the females from
undue or unwomanly employments. If there was a
burthen, it was in the arms or on the shoulders of
the man. Even labours that seem properly to be-
long to the household, were often performed by
the latter ; and I never heard the voice of the wife
calling on the husband for assistance, that it was
not answered by a ready, manly, and cheerful
compliance. The neatness of the cottage, the
farm-house, and the inn ; the clean, tidy, health-
ful, and vigorous look of the children, united to
attest the usefulness of this system. What ren-
ders all this more striking and more touching, is
the circumstance that not only is labour in so
great demand, but, contrary to the fact in all the
rest of Christendom, the women materially exceed
the men in numbers. This seeming departure
from what is almost an established law of nature,
is owing to the emigration westward. By the
census of 1820, it appears, that in the six states

MOIIE WOMF.N THAN MEN IN NEW ENGLAND. 143

of New England there were rather more than
thirteen females to every twelve males over the
age of sixteen. It is vain to say that absence of
selfishness, and all the kinder and best feelings
of man, are no more than the concomitants of
abundance and simplicity, whicli in themselves
are the fruits of a spare population and of pro-
vincial retirement. If this be so strictly true,
why do not the same qualities prevail in the more
favoured regions of this very continent ? why do
not order, and industry, and enterpris ^, and all
the active and healthful virtues abound in South
as in North America ? why is not the fertile pro-
vince of Upper Canada, for instance, as much
distinguished for its advancement in all the useful
artF of life as the states of the neighbouring re-
public ? and why, under so many physical disad-
vantages, are the comparatively sterile and rocky
states of New England remarkable for these very
qualities amid their own flourishing and healthful
sisters ? It cannot be the religious principles
they derived from their ancestors, since the Penn-
sylvanian and the New J' rseyman, and even
the peaceful and honest Hollander of New York,
can claim just as virtuous a descent. It cannot
be any exclusive succession to the principles and
habits of their English ancestors, since, with ex-
ceptions too slight to affect the great body of the
nation, this has been an inheritance common to
all. It cannot be that time has matured their

!:-i

144 INFLUENCE OF GENERAL INTELLIGENCE.

institutions, and given play and energy to their
mental advantages, since Brazil, and Chili, and
Mexico, and many other nations of this continent,
date a century older, and Virginia and New York,
Canada and Louisiana, are of coeval existence.
In short, it cannot even be their elastic and inciting
liberty, for that too is a principle which has never
been suffered to slumber in any of the vast and
varied regions of this great confederation. We
must seek the solution in a cause which is the
parent of all that is excellent and great in com-
munities, no less than in individuals. I mean in-
telligence. That pitiful and narrow theory which,
thank God, is now getting into disuse in Europe,
and which taught the doctrine that instruction
became dangerous to those who could not push
learning to its limits, was never in fashion here.
The limits of learning ! As if any one could yet
pronounce on the boundaries which the Almighty
has been pleased to set between the efforts of our
reason and his own omniscience. It is true that
the wisest men are always the most truly modest 5
for, having outstripped their competitors in the
attainment of human knowledge, they alone can
know how much there is necessarily beyond their
reach, and how impossible it is for mortals to
attain it. But who could ever yet say he had
taxed his facuUies to the utmost. The world has
been amusing itself with assumed axioms on this
subject, when it might have been better employed

I fit

THK EFFKClSOf GENERAL INTELLIGENCE. 145

in investigating the truth in its more useful and
practical forms. The self-sufficiency of pretenders
has been tortured into an evidence of the danger
of empiricism in knowledge. As well might the
pedantry and foibles of the student himself be
perverted to an argument against learning, as
to say that thought must be kept in subjection
because it sometimes leads to error. The fruits
of knowledge are not to be weighed by the credit
they reflect on this or that searcher after truth,
but by the influence they produce on the mass of
society. The man who, from defect of powers,
or from any other adverse circumstance, cannot
assist in the advancement of intelligence, may,
notwithstanding, become the wholesome recipient
of truth ; and the community which encourages a
dissemination of the sacred quality, enjoys an
incalculable advantage over all others, inasmuch
as each of its members starts so much nearer to
the goal for which every people must strive,
(and that too through its individual members,)
in order to secure a distinguished place in the
great competition of nations. It is a remarkable
fact, that the retired, distant, and little regarded
states of which I am writing, had matured and
were reaping the rare fruits of a system of ex-
tended general instruction, for quite a century,
when, a distinguished advocate for reform (Mr.
Brougham), in the Parliament of your own coun*-
try, that country which was then, and is still

VOL. I. L

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146

PECULIAR MERIT OF XEW ENGLAND.

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giving lessons to Europe in liberty and govern-
ment, charmed the ears of the liberal by visions
of a similar plan for yourselves, which then ex-
isted, as it now exists, only in the wishes of the
truly wise and benevolent. And yet one hears
of the great moral debt that the people of New
owe to the people of Old England ! The com-
mon ancestors may h? '^. le^' i goodly inheritance
to their children; but s' '!> subject, at least, it
appears to me that the iiig< 9nt to the western
hemisphere has made of his tale at ten talents,
while his kinsman, who remained at home, has
done little more than imitate the example of him
who met with any thing but unqualified appro-
baaon. • . .

In reviewing my letter, I see that I have written
warmly, and with a portion of that interest which
the two subjects that have been its themes
rarely fail to inspire. As I know you enter fully
into all my feelings, both for the fair and for
general instruction, (for however lame and defec-
tive may have been the policy of your nation, com-
pared with that of your kinsmen here, there still
exists in England, as in Denmark, and a few other
nations, a high and noble spirit of emulation,) I
shall not repress a single sentence of that which
has escaped my pen. But the subject must be left,
until further opportunity shall be given to look
■into the society of New England in its large towns.
• During the whole of my recent excursion.

LAFAYETTE. illE M ANN ER OF HIS JOUKX EY . 147

though I purposely avoided encountering La
Fayette, his visit has been a constant and inex-
haustible topic of conversation. His journey along
the coast has been like the passage of a brilliant
meteor. In every village he has been received
with modest, but heartfelt rejoicings, wrhile his
entrances into the cities have been literally tri-
umphant. That there have been some exhibitions
ofjoy which a fastidious taste might reject, cannot
be denied ; but you will remember that the people
of this country are left to express their own senti-
ments in their own fashion. The surprise
should be, not that the addresses and receptions
of which you will doubtless see some account in
Europe, are characterised by so little, but that
they are distinguished by so much soundness of
discrimination, truth of principle, and propriety
of manner. — Adieu.

TO THE BARON VON KEMPERFELT,

New York, 1824.
I FEEL that a description of this ancient city of
the United Provinces is due to you. In dwelling on
its admirable position, its growing prosperity, and
its probable grandeur, I wish to excite neither
your hopes, nor your regrets. I have seen enough
of this country already, to know, that in losing the

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lii§| s

148

VEW YORK.

New Netherlands in their infancy, you only
escaped the increased misfortune of having them
wrested from your power by their own efforts at
a more advanced period, when the struggle might
have cost you, like that which England has borne,
and Spain still suffers — an incalculable expendi-
ture of men and money. You are thrice happy
that your dominion in this quarter of America did
not endure long enough to leave, in its train, any
mortifying and exasperating recollections. The
Dutch are still remembered here with a feeling
strongly allied to affinity, by thousands of their
descendants, who if, among their more restless
and bustling compatriots of the east, they are
not distinguished for the great enterprise which is
peculiar to that energetic population, have ever
maintained the highest character for thrift, unde-
niable courage, and inflexible probity. These are
qualities which never fail to create respect, and
which, by some unfortunate construction of the
human mind, as rarely excite envy as emulation.

The name of the town, itself, is far from being
happy. The place stands on a long narrow island,
called Manhattan, a native appellation which
should have been perpetuated through that of the
city. There wes a precedent for innovation which
might have been followed to advantage. It is a little
surprising that these republicans, who are not guilt-
less of sundry absurd changes in their nomenclature
ofstreets, squares, counties, and towns, should have

WHAT IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN.

149

neglected the opportunity of the Revolution, not
only to deprive the royal family of England of the
honour of giving a name to both their principal
state and principal town, but to restore a word so
sonorous, and which admits of so many happy va-
riations as the appellation of this island. A " Man-
hattanese" has certainly a more poetical sound
than a ** New Yorker ;" and there is an euphony in
the phrase of " Men of Manhattan" that the lovers
of alliteration may long sigh in vain to hear
equalled by any transposition of the present un-
musical and complex term. Nor would the
adoption of a new name be attended with half of
the evils in the case of a city or a county, as in
that of a street or a market, since the very noto-
riety and importance of the alteration would serve
to apprise all men of the circumstance. But a cen-
tury and a half have confirmed the present title ;
and while the city of the white rose has been moul-
dering in provincial quiet, her western god-child
has been growing into an importance that is likely
to carry the name to that distant period when the
struggles of the adverse factions shall be lost in
the obscurity of time, or be matter of vague and
remote history.

A nation as commercial and active as this, has
only fairly to elect the position of its favourite
mart to put it on a level with the chief places of
the earth. London and Paris, Vienna, Rome.
Carthage, and, for any thing we know, Pekin and

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150

THE UAVS AROUND N>.W VORK.

Nankin, can refer the causes of their greatness to
little beside accident or caprice. The same might
be said of hundreds more of the principal places
of antiquity, or of our own times. But it is only
necessary to sit down with a minute map of the
country before you, to perceive, at a glance, that
Nature herself has intended the island of Man-
hattan for the site of one of the greatest commer-
cial towns in the world. The spirit of its possessors
is not likely to balk this intention ; and it may be
truly said, that the agents, both physical and
moral, are in the happiest possible unison to ac-
complish the mighty plan. Although all descrip-
tion must fail to give a clear idea of the advantages
of such a position, yet, as your imagination may
be somewhat aided by one as imperfect as that
must necessarily be which comes from my pen,
it shall be attempted after my own desultory and
irregular mariner. '

You must haVe obtained, through my letters, some
general impression concerning the two great bays
which lie between New York and the ocean. The
former, you will recollect, is known by the name
of '* Raritan," and the latter forms what is properly
called the ** Harbour." Raritan Bay is an extensive
roadstead, abounding with situations where vessels
may be partialis protected from every wind that
blows. It is, in fact, only open to the sea on the
east ; but, by the aid of the low sandy cape I have
mentioned, shelter can be had in it against the

HAIUiOUH, ANCHORAGE, ETC.

151

heaviest gales from that quarter, as it may also
be found in some one of its many anchoring
grounds, against the wind from every other point
of the compass. The harbour is still more secure ;
a vessel being entirely land-locked, when anchored
a mile or two within the Narrows. Here thea
are space and security united to an extraordinary
degree ; for, with the exception of a few well
defined reefs, there is scarcely a rock in the whole
port to endanger a ship, or even to injure a cable.i.
But the true basins for the loading and unloading"
of freights, and for the repairs and construction of
vessels, are in the Hudson river, and in that narrow
arm of the sea which connects the waters of the
bay with those of the sound. The latter is most
occupied at present by the ships engaged in'
foreign commerce. This strait is near half a mile
in width, has abundance of water for any thing
that floats, and possesses a moderately swift,
and a sufficiently accurate current. From the
point of its junction with the bay, to an islands
which, by narrowing its boundaries, increases the
velocity of its tides too much for the convenience
of handling ships at wharfs, the distance cannot
be a great deal less than five miles. The wharfs on
Manhattan Island already extend more than three
of these miles. On the opposite shore (Long
Island) there is also a long range of quays. In
the Hudson, it is impossible to fix limits to the
facilities for commerce. As the river is a mile in

152

HUDSON AT NEW YORK I WHARFS.

■fV

width, and possesses great depth, it is plain that
docks or wharfs may be extended as far as the
necessities of the place shall ever require. The
river is navigable for a heavy draught of water
about a hundred miles, and for sloops and lighter
craft some fifty or sixty more.

The time has not yet come for the formation of
massive, permanent quays in the harbour of New
York. Wood is still too cheap, and labour too
dear, for so heavy an investment of capital. All the
wharfs of New York are of very simple construction,
— A frame-work of hewn logs is filled with loose
stone, and covered with a surface of trodden
earth. This species of quay, if durability be
put out of the question, is perhaps the best in the
world. The theory that wood subject to the
action of tides in salt water may become the
origin of disease, is, like a thousand other
theories, much easier advanced than supported.
It is very true that the yellow fever has often
existed in the immediate vicinity of some of these
wharfs; but it is quite as true that there are
miles of similarly constructed quays, in precisely
the Sw.ne climate, where it has never existed at all.
The Americans appear to trouble themselves very
little on this point, for they are daily constructing
great ranges of these wooden piers, in order to
meet the increasing demands of their trade, while
the whole of the seven miles of water which
fronts the city, is lined with similar constructions,

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YELLOW fever: BUT LITTLE DREADED. 153

if we except the public mall, called ** the
Battery," which is protected from the waves
of the bay by a wall of stone.

The yellow fever is certainly the only draw-back
on the otherwise unrivalled commercial position of
New York; but the hazard of this disease is
greatly magnified in Europe. The inhabitants of
the place appear to have but little dread on the
subject, and past experience would seem, in a
great measure, to justify their indifference. So
far as I can learn, there never have bc?n but three
or four summers when that fatal malady has com-
mitted any very serious ravages in this latitude.
These seasons occurred at the close of the last,
and at the commencement of the present century.
Since the year 1804, there have been but two
autumns when the yellow fever has existed to any
dangerous degree in New York, and neither of
them proved very fatal, though it is certain that
the arrangements of the city were exressively
inconvenienced by its appearance. I believe it is
admitted by scientific men, that this dangerous
malady, though it is always characterised by
certain infallible symptoms, often exhibits itself
under forms so very much modified as to render
different treatments necessary in different seasons.
The fevers of 1819 and of 1821, in New York,
were accompanied by circumstances so singular
as to deserve a particular place in this letter.

The wharfs of New York form a succession of

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154

FEVER OF 1819 AND 1821.

little basins, which are sometimes large enough to
admit thirty or forty sail, though often much smaller.
These irregular docks have obtained the name
of ** slips." One of the former was shown me
that was particularly foul and offensive. Around
this slip, at the close of the hot weather in 1819,
the yellow fever made its appearance. A few
individuals became its victims before the existence
of the danger was fully established. The city
authorities took prompt and happy measures for
its suppression. The question of contagion or
of non-contagi'jn had long been hotly contested
among the medical men, and a sort of middle
course, between the precautions inculcated by the
two theories, had begun to be practised. So soon as
it was found how far the disease extended, (and its
limits were inconceivably small,) the inhabitants
were all removed, and the streets were fenced, in
order to prevent access to whet was proclaimed
by authority to be " the infected district.*' The
sick were conveyed into other quarters of the
town, or to the country, some dying and others
recovering. When the removal was made in time,
or when the disease did not make its appearance
until after the patient had experienced the benefit
pf pure air, the malady was generally more mild,
though still often fatal. No one took the disease
by contagion, it being affirmed that every case
that occurred could be distinctly traced to " the
mfected district." The taint, corruption, or ani-

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IXFIiCTEDDlSTKICTS: MEANS OF PREVENTION. 155

malculae in the air, whichever the cause of the
malady might be, gradually spread, until it was
found necessary to extend the limits of " the in-
fected district" in every direction. I am told
that thousands remained in their dwellings, within
musket shot of this spot dedicated to death, per-
fectly satisfied that the enemy could make no
inroads on their security without giving notice of
his approach through some of those who dwelt
nearest to the proscribed region. As the latter,
however, acted as a sort of forlorn hope, a very
respectable space was left around the fences, and,
in one or two instances, especially in 1821, the
disease, for want of nearer subjects, surprised a
few who believed themselves sufficiently removed
from its ravages. In neither year, however, did
a case occur that could not be distinctly traced to
the "infected district,*' or to a space that does not
exceed one thirtieth part of the surface of the
whole city. The progress of the disease was
exceedingly slow, extending in a circle around the
point whence it appeared to emanate. I heard
several curious and well authenticated circum-
stances that serve to confirm these facts, one of
which I will relate.

A lady of fortune had retired to the country on
the first appearance of the fever. The house she
left, stood a few hundred feet beyond the limits
of the "infected district." Her son had occasion
to visit this dwelling, which he did without

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156 INSTANCE OF CONTRACTING THE DISEASE.

l!i

scruple, since the gu irdians. of the city were
thought lo be on tne aiert, and hundreds were
still rf'sidag between the house and the known
limits ox" the disease. On the return of the young
gentleman to the country he was seized with the
fever, but happily recovered. The fortune and
connections of the youth gave notoriety to his
cas2, and the fences were removed under the im-
pression that the danger was spreading. After

his recovery, however, Mr. acknowledged

that, led by his curiosity, he had gone to the fence
the day he was in town, where he stood for some
time contemplating the solitude of the deserted
streets. My informant, who could be a little
waggish even on this grave subject, added, that
some pretended that the curiosity of the young
gentleman was so strong as to induce him to
thrust his head through an opening in the fence*
He, however, gave credit to the story in its sub-
stance.

The malady rarely appears before the last of
August, and has invariably disappeared with the
first frosts, which are commonly felt here in Octo-
ber. The fever of 1821 caused much less alarm than
that of 1819, though the infected district was far
more extensive, and occupied a part of the city
that was supposed to be more healthy. But ex-
perience -iad shown that the disorder has its
limits, and tiiat its inarch is slow and easily
avoided. T'le mu chants estimate the danger of

■ i si

THfORIES CONCERNING THE FEVER.

157

the fever in this climate at a very iow rate ; and,
perhaps, like the plague, or those fatal diseases
which have ravaged London, and other towns in
the centre of Europe, it will soon cease to create
uneasiness at all.

I have endeavoured to glean all the interesting
facts in mv power concerning this disease, from
men of intelligence, who have not, like the phy-
sicians, enlisted themselves in favour of one or
the other of the conflicting theories of contagion
or non-contagion, importation or non-importation.
It appears to be admitted all round, that the
disorder cannot be contracted in a pure atmo-
sphere. If the circumstances I have heard be
true, and from the authority I cannot doubt their
being so, it seems also to be a nearly inevitable
conclusion, that the disease is never generated in
this climate. This, however, is a knotty point, and
one that covers much of the grounds of disagree-
ment. That a certain degree and concentration of
heat is necessary for the appearance of the yellow
fever, is a fact very generally admitted. There is
a common opinion that it has never been known
in New York, except in summers when the ther-
mometer has stood something above 80 for a given
number of days in succession. And yet the tem -
perature is often as high, and for similar periods,
without the appearance of the fever. The
seeds of the disease are undoubtedly imported,
whether it is ever generated here or not ; for it

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158 FACTS CONCERNING THE DISF. A S K. THEORIES.

has often happened that labourers who have been
employed in vessels from the West Indies, after
the crews had left them, have sickened and died.
These cases must have arisen from a contaminated
air, and not from strict contagion. Indeed there
is scarce a summer in which some case of the
fever does not occur at the Lazaretto, through
vessels from the West Indies, or the more southern
points of the United States. That the disorder does
not extend itself is imputed to the pureness of
the atmosphere at the time being. In a question
in which important facts are liable to so much
qualification, it is necessary, however, to admit
their inferences with great caution. So much
must depend, for instance, on the particular state
of the system of the individual, that each case
seems to require a cl. se examination beforf, any
very conclusive reasoning can be grounded on its
circumstances. One of the theories of the dis-
order, as you probably know, assumes that it is
no more than a high bilious fever exhibited under
a peculiarly malignant form. All this may be
very true, and yet the agent to produce that
malifjaity, may exist in the atmosphere in such a
condition as to render it rui^able of transporta-
tion, and if I may "^o expre;?^ it, of expansion.
There is a vulgar opinion that av^rtain vicious ani-
malculge are generated in the warmer climates,
and when conveyed to this latitude, if they meet
with a genial tempp.rature, they thrive and propa-

ANlMALCUL/i; THE CAUSE.

151)

gate their species like other people, until growing
bold with their numbers they wander abroad, are '
inhaled, and continue to poison the springs of
human existence, until a day of retribution arrives
in the destroying influence of a sharp frost. It is
certain that the inhabitants of New York, who
would have considered their lives in jeopardy by
entering their dwellings one day, take peaceable
possession of them the morning after a wholesome
frost, with entire impunity. I have no doubt that
much of the embarrassment under which this
subject labours, is produced by the near resem-
blance between the fever which is certainly im-
ported, and that which sometimes originates in
the climate; though the latter, perhaps, is limited
to those cases in which the patient has a strong
predisposition to the malady. After all, the most
exaggerated notions prevail in Europe concerning
the danger of the disease in this latitude. Nine^
tenths of the space covered by this city never
had an original case of yellow fever in it, and its
appearance at all is of rare occurrence. Indeed,
I am led to belies e that New York, owing to its
fine situation, is on the whole more healthy than
most large towns. It has also been told to me,
that the deaths by consumption, as reported, are
probably greatly magnified beyond the truth,
since the family physician or friend of one who
has died, for instance, by excessive use of ardent
liquors, would not be apt to tell the disreputably

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lOO CHARACTER OF X£W YOHK FOR Hi:ALTH.

truth, especially as it is not exacted under the
obligations of an oath. Though I have as yet
seen no reason to believe that intemperance,
particularly among the native Americans, abounds
here more than in other countries, yet I can
readily believe it is very fatal in its conse-
quences in a latitude where the temperature is so
high in summer. There are certainly disorders
that arem^^^e or less incidental to the climate, but
there are many others of a pernicious character,
that are either relatively innocent, or utterly un-
known. When it is remembered that, compared
with the amount of the whole population, a far
greater number than usual of the inhabitants of
i .Is city are of that reckless and adventurous
class that regard indulgence more than life, and
how easy it is to procure indulgence here, I think
it will be found by the official reports, that the
city of New York raay claim a high place among
the most salubrious ports of the world. This
impression will be increased, when one recals
how little has as yet been done towards obtaining
wholesome water, or to carry off the impurities
of the place by means of drains. Still, as it is,
New York is far from being a dirty town. It has
certainly degenerated from that wholesome and
untiring cleanliness which it may be supposed to
have inherited from its first possessors. The
houses are no longer scrubbed externally, nor is
it required to leave one's slippers at its gates, lest

NKM VOKK A CM! AX lOWX.

101

the dust of the roads should sully the brijjhtness
of glazed tiles and glaring bricks. But Paris is
foul indeed, and London, in its more crowded
parts, far from being cleanly, compared to New
York. And yet the commercial emporium of
this nation bears no goodly reputation in this par-
ticular, among the Americans themselves. Her
sister cities are said to be far more lovely, and the
filth of the town is a subject of daily meanings
in its own journals.

But admitting the evil in its fullest extent, it is
but a trifling blot on the otherwise high preten-
sions of the place. Time, and a better regulated
police will serve to remedy much greater evils
than this. In order to view the city in its proper
light, it must be considered in connection with
those circumstances which are fast giving to it
the character of the great mart of the western
hemisphere.

By referring to the description already given,
you will find that New York possesses the advan-
tages of a capacious and excellent roadstead, a
vast harbour, an unusually extensive natural
basin, with two outlets to the sea, and a river
that, in itself, might contain all the shipping of
the earth. By means of the Sound, and its tri-
butary waters, it has the closest connection with
the adjoining state of Connecticut ; and, through
the adjacent bays, small vessels penetrate in almost
every direction into that of New Jersey. These

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162 SLUKOINDING COMMUNICATION BY WATER.

are the channels by which the town receives its
ordinary daily supplies. Cadwallader pointed out
on the map seven considerable navij^able rivers,
exclusive of the noble Hudson, and avast number
of inlets, creeks, and bays, all of which were
within a hundred miles of this place, and with
which daily and hourly intercourse is held by
means of sloops, or steam-boats. Still these
are no more than the minor and more familiar
advantages of New York, which, however they
may contribute to her convenience, become in-
significant when compared to the more important
sources of her prosperity. It is true that in these
little conveniences. Nature has done the work
that man would probably have to perform a cen-
tury hence, and thereby is the growth of the town
greatly facilitated, but the true springs of its future
grandeur must be described on a far more mag-
nificent scale.

New York stands central between the commerce
of the north and that of the south. It is the first
practicable port, at all seasons of the year, after
you quit the mouth of the Chesapeake, going
northward. It lies in the angle formed by the coast,
and where the courses to Europe, to the West
Indies, or to the Southern Atlantic, can be made
direct. The ship from Virginia, or Louisiana,
commonly passes within a day's sail of New York,
on its way to Europe, and the coaster from Boston
frequently stops at the wharfs of this city to

HJVALIIV TO CONTEND AGAINST.

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it,

deposit part of its freight before proceeding fur-
tlier south.

Now, one so conversant with the world as your-
self, need not be reminded that in every great
commercial community there is a tendency to
create a common mart, where exchanges can be
regulated, loans effected, cargoe.-^ vended in gross,
and all other things connected with trade, trans-
acted on a scale commensurate to the magnitude
of the interests involved in its pursuits. The
natural advantages of New Fork had indicated
this port to the Americans for that spot, imme-
diately after the restoration of the peace in 1783.
Previously to that period, the whole proceedings
of the colonies were more or less influenced by
the policy of the mother country. But for a long
time after the independence of the states was
acknowledged, the possessors of the island of
Manhattan had to contend for supremacy against
a powerful rivalry. Philadelphia, distant less
than a hundred miles, was not only more wealthy
and more populous, but for many years it en-
joyed the eclat and advantage of being the capital
of the union. Boston and Baltimore are both sea-
ports of extensive connections, and of great and
enlightened enterprise. Against this serious com-
petition, however. New York struggled with
success ; gradually obtaining the superiority in
tonnage and inhabitants, until within a few years,
when opposition silently yielded to the force of

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164 INCREASK, AND CONSEQUENCES OF SUCCESS.

circumstances, and those towns which had so
long been rivals became auxiliaries to her aggran-
dizement. All this is perfectly in the natural
course of things, though I find that a lingering of
the ancient jealousy still tempts many of the mer-
chants of the other towns to ascribe the ascen-
dancy of New York to any cause but the right
one. Among other things, the establishment of
those numerous lines of packets, to which I have
alluded in a previous letter, is thought to have
had an influence on her progress. It appears to
me that this is mistaking the effect for the cause.
If I am rightly informed, the merchant of Boston
already sends his ship here for freight; frequently
sells his cargo under the hammer of the New
York auctioneer to his own neighbour, and buys
a new one to send to some distant part of the
world, without seeing, from the commencement of
the year to its close, the vessel which is the in-
strument of transporting his wealth to the various
quarters of the world. Philadelphians have been
pointed out to me who are said to be employed
in pursuits of the same nature. The whole mystery
of these transactions rests on a principle that is
within the compass of any man's understanding.
Though articles can and are sometimes vended
by itinerants in its streets, the material wants of
every great town are supplied in the common
market-place. It is easier to find a purchaser
where much than where little is sold, and it is

CIIAHACTER OF POPULATION. — GROWTH. 165

precisely for the reason that prices take a wider
range in an extensive than in a limited market,
that men congregate there to feed their wants
or to glut their avarice. That New York must, in
the absence of any counteracting moral causes,
at some day have become this chosen mart of
American commerce, is sufficiently evident by its
natural advantages, and that the hour of this su-
premacy has arrived is, I think, apparent by the
facts which I have mentioned, supported as they
are by the strong corroborating circumstance, that
hundreds are now daily quitting the other towns
to resort to this.

The consequences of its rapid growth, and the
extraordinary medley of which its population is
composed, serve to give something of a peculiar
character to New York. Cadwallader tells me
that, with perhaps the exception of New Orleans,
it is the only city in the Union that has not the
air of a provincial town. For my own part, I
have found in it such a melange of customs, na-
tions, society, and manners, all tempered, without
being destroyed, by the institutions and opinions
of the country, that I despair of conveying a
correct idea of either by description. We shall
have more definite data in speaking of its unpre-
cedented growth.

In 1756, the city of New York contained 13,000
souls; in 1790, 33,000; in 1800, 60,000; in
1810, 96,000 J in 1820, 123,000; and, in 1825,

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166 INCREASE. REASONS FOR A VARIATION.

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166,000.* The latter enumeration is exclusive
of Brooklyn, a flourishing village which has arisen
within the last half dozen years from next to
nothing ; which, from its position and connection
with the city, is in truth no more than a suburb
differently governed ; and which in itself contains
about 10,000 souls.

By the foregoing statement, you will see that,
while the growth of New York has been rather
regular than otherwise, its population has doubled
withi:^ the last thirty-five years nearly at the rate
of once in fifteen years. Between 1790 and 1800,
the comparative increase was the greatest. This
was probably owing to the fact that it was the
moment when the peculiar situation of the world
gave an extraordinary impulse to the American
commerce. Between 1800 and 1820, were felt
the effects of a highly thriving trade, the reaction
of embargos, non-intercourse and war, and the
relative stagnation attendant on the return of
business to its more natural channels. The ex-
traordinary increase in the last five years, during
a period of ordinary commerce, is, I think, to be
imputed to the accessions obtained by the silent
acquiescence of her rivals in the future supremacy
of this town as the great mart of the nation. To
what height, or how long this latter cause may
serve to push the accumulation of New York be-
yond what would be its natural growth, exceeds

* It is supposed to contain about 200,000 at the present moment.

£S'11MA'H:S OF FUTUIIE SIZE.

107

my ability to estimate. Though it may receive
checks from the variety of causes w^hich affect all
prosperity, it w^ill probably be some years before
the influence of this revolution in opinion shall
entirely cease j after which period, the growth
of the city must be more regular, though always
in proportion to the infant vigour of the whole
country.

It is a curious calculation, and one in which the
Americans very naturally love to indulge, to esti-
mate the importance of this place at no very dis-
tant day. If the rate of increase for the last thirty-
five years (or the whole period when the present
institutions of the country have had an influence
on its advancement) is to be taken as a guide for
the future, the city of New York will contain
about 900,000 souls in the year 1860. Prodigious
as this estimate may at first seem, it can be sup-
ported by arguments of a weight and truth of
which you are most probably ignorant. Notwith-
standing the buoyant character of this nation's
prosperity, and the well-known fact that the
growth of towns is by no means subject to the
same general laws as that of countries, were it
not for one circumstance, I should scarcely pre-
sume to hazard a calculation which wears the air
of extravagance by its very amount, since, by
merely adding another fifteen years, you have the
largest town in Christendom as the reward of your
addition. But, in point of fact, in order to keep

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AMF.RICAN ANTICIPATIONS.

pace with the progress of things in this extraor-
dinary vjountry, something like that which else-
where might be termed extravagance of anticipa-
tion becomes absolutely necessary. Although the
ideas of my companion are reasonably regulated by
an extensive acquaintance with the eastern hemis-
phere, T confess I have been startled with the
entire gravity with which he sometimes speaks of
the power of the United States ; not as an event
to affect the fortunes of future ages, but as a thing
that would be operative in the time of our own
children, dear Baron, had notour egotistical habits
left us without the hope of living in those who
come after us. But when he paused this morning
in our promenade through the Broadway, a noble
street that runs for two miles through the heart of
the place, and pointed out the limits of the city*
as he himself had known them in his boyhood,
and then desired me to look along the fine vista
in front, which I knew was supported by vast
masses of buildings on each of its sides, I felt
the force of the reasons he had for entertaining
opinions, that to me had just before seemed
visionary.

The circumstance to which this town is to be
indebted for most of its future greatness, is the
immense and unprecedented range of interior
which, by a bold and noble effort of policy, has
recently been made tributary to its interests. By
examining the map of the United States, you can

IMMENSE INTERIOU iUADE.

169

easily make yourself master of all the facts neces-
sary to a perfect understanding of what I mean.
The river Hudson runs northward from New York
for the distance of about two hundred miles. It is
navigable for large sloops to Waterford, a place
that is situated near the junction of the Mohawk
with the former river, and at a distance a little ex-
ceeding one hundred and fifty miles from this city.
Sixty miles further north brings one to the he?,d
of Lake Champlain, which separates Vermont from
New York, and communicates with the St. Law-
rence by means of a navigable outlet. By fol-
lowing the route of the Mohawk westward, you
pass directly through the he^rt of this flourishing
state, until you reach a place called Rome, whence
the country to Lake Erie was found to be perfectly
practicable for water communication. Once in
Lake Erie, it is possible to extend a domestic
trade, by means of those little inland, fresh-water
seas, through a fertile and rapidly growing coun-
try, for a distance of near or quite fifteen hundred
miles further. As if this were not enough. Nature
has placed the head waters of the Mississippi so
near the navigable tributaries of the lakes Mi-
chigan, Superior, and Erie, that there is nothing
visionary in predicting that artificial communica-
tion will soon bring them into absolute contact.

It is a matter of dispute with whom the bold
idea of connecting the waters of the lakes with
those of the Hudson originated. The fact will proba-

iftiii

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170

MR. CLINTON.

bly never be known, since the thoughts of one may
have been quickened by those of another, the spe-
culations of each successor enlarging on those of
him who wentbefore^ until the plaint of some Indian
that nature had denied a passage to his canoe from
the Mohawk into a stream of the lesser lakes,
has probably given birth to them all. But there
can be no question as to the individual, who, in a
government so particularly cautious of its expen-
ditures, has dared to stake his political fortunes
on the success of the hazardous undertaking.
Mr. Clinton, the present governor of this state, is
the only highly responsible political man who can
justly lay claim to be the parent of the project.
For many years, I am told w^as persecuted as
a visionary projector, ant was clear that his
downfal was to be the penalty of failure ; though
now that success is certain, or rather realized,
there are hundreds ready to depreciate his merits,
and not a few willing to share in all his honours.
But these are no more than the detractions which
are known every where to sully the brightness of a
new reputation. Time will remove them all, since
posterity never fails to restore with interest that
portion of fame which is temporarily abstracted
by the envy or the hostility of contemporaries.

The plan has been to reject the use of all the
rivers, except as feeders, and to make two canals,
one from the Lake Champlain, and the other from
the Lake Erie, which were to meet at the junction

y*
U

GUTAT CANALS. A CASE.

171

of the Mohawk and the Hudson, whence they
are to proceed to Albany, and issue into the
latter river. The former of these canals is about
sixty miles in length, and the other three hundred
and fifty. The work was commenced in the year
1817, and is already nearly completed.*

Really reflection on this subject is likely to de-
range the ideas of the gravest man. Imagine, for
instance, that Africa were a populous and civilized
region ; that Spain were peopled by an active and
enlightened population; that their habits were
highly commercial ; and then assume that Gib-
ralter was not only one of the most noble, con-
venient and safe havens of the world, but that,
from its central position, it had secured an ascen-
dancy in European trade. Remove all serious
rivals which chance or industry had raised in
the other parts of Europe, to the prosperity of
this unrivalled mart, placing it already foremost
among the cities of our hemisphere. Then, sup-
pose the Mediterranean, with all its tributaries,
a narrow, convenient river, having direct com-

* 1828. It is now not only finished, but is so eminently success-
ful, that it has given rise to a multitude of similar works, one of
which, to connect the waters of the Ohio with Lake Erie, is already
far advanced, and will open an inland water communication between
New York and New Orleans, a distance of more than 2000 miles.
The tolls oU the Erie canal amounted the last year (1827) to
850,000 dollars, leaving a large surplus, after paying the interest on
the money borrowed for its construction, and all charges of repairs, '
&c. &c.

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172 IIJSTIUCATION OF FUTURE fcXPKCTATlONS.

munication with vast lakes, whose banks were
peopled by men of similar educations and opinions,
wants and wishes, governed by the same policy,
and subject to the same general laws, and I commit
you to your own imaginative [jowers to fancy what
the place would become in the space of a century.

With these views unavoidedly before the eye, it
is difficult to descend to the sober reality of ex-
isting things. I can now easily understand the
perspective of American character. It is abso-
lutely necessary to destroy thought, to repress it.
1 fear we owe a good deal of our exemption from
the quality we laugh at, from the same penetrat-
ing faculty of the mind. A state of things may
easily exist, in which it is quite as pleasant to
look back as forward ; but here, though the brief
retrospect be so creditable, it absolutely sinks
into insignificance compared with the mighty
futuie. These people have clearly only to con-
tinue discreet, to be foremost among the nations
of the earth, and that too, most probably, before
the discussion as to their future fate shall be for-
gotten.

While a subject so great is intensely pressing
itself on the mind, as it unavoidably must on that
of every intelligent stranger who has sufficient
philanthropy to regard with steadiness the pros-
perity of a people who may so soon be a formidable
rival, it is difficult to descend to those more imma-
terial and evanescent customs and appearances

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HOUSFS: THErU MODERN COVSTRUCTfOV. 173

that mark lue condition of the present hour. Still
they are of importance as they may influence the
future, and are not without interest by their pecu-
liarities and national characteristics.

In construction, New York embraces every
variety of house, between that of the second-rate
English town residence, and those temporary
wooden tenements that are seen in the skirts of
most large cities. I do not think, however, that
those absolutely miserable, filthy abodes which
are often seen in Europe, abound here. The
houses of the poor are not indeed large, like those
in which families on the continent are piled on
one another for six c seven stories, but they are
rarely old and tottering; for the growth of the
place, which, by its insular situation, is confined
to one direction, forces them out of existence before
they have had time to decay. I have been told, and
I think it probable, that there are not five hundred
buildings in New York, that can date further back
than the peace of '83. A few old Dutch dwellings
yet remain, and can easily be distinguished by
their little bricks, their gables to the street, and
those steps on their battlement walls, which your
countrymen are said to have invented, in order to
ascend to regulate the iron weathercocks at every
variation of the fickle winds.

Although poverty has no permanent abode, yet
New York has its distinct quarters. I think they
are sufficiently known and understood. Com-

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PKtUMAIUTV OF A PPEARA NC K.

merce is gradually taking possession of the whole
of the lower extremity of the island, though the
bay, the battery, and the charming Broadway,
still cause many of the affluent to depart with
reluctance. The fashion of the place is gradually
collecting on the highest and healthiest point of
land, "where its votaries may be equally removed
from the bustle of the two rivers (for the strait is
strangely enough called a river), while other
portions are devoted to the labouring classes,
manufacturers, and the thousand pursuits of a
sea-port.

In outward appearance, New York, but for two
things, would resemble a part of London that
should include fair proportions of Westminster
(without the great houses and recent improve-
ments), the city, and Wapping. The points of
difference are owing to the fact that, probably
without an exception, the exterior of all the
houses are painted, and that there is scarce a
street in the place which is not more or less lined
with trees. The former fashion, unquestionably
derived from your countrymen, gives the town a
lively and cheerful air, for which I was a long
time puzzled to account. At first I imputed it to
the brightness of the atmosphere, whic.i differs
but little from that of Italy ; and then I thought
it might be owing to the general animation and
. life that pervaded all the principal streets. Cad-
wallader explained the causes, and added, that

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PUBMC BUILDINGS. — CITY HALF,.

175

H :

the custom was nearly peculiar (with the excep-
tion of wooden buildings) to the towns in the
ancient colony of the United Provinces. The
common practice is to deepen the colour of the
bricks by a red paint, and then to interlire them
with white ; a fashion that scarcely alters their
original .appearance, except by imparting a neat-
ness and freshness that are exceedingly pleasant.
But, in many instances, I saw dwellings of a
lively cream colour ; and there are also several
varieties of stone that seem to be getting much
in use latterly.

The principal edifice is the City Hall, a building
in which the courts are held, the city authorities
assemble, and the public offices are kept. This
building is oddly enough composed of two sorts
of stone, which impairs its simplicity, and gives
it a patched and party-coloured appearance.
Neither is its facade in good taste, being too
much in detail, a fault the ancients were not fond
of committing. Notwithstanding these glaring de-
fects, by aid of its material, a clear white marble,
and the admirable atmosphere, it at first strikes
one more agreeably than many a better edifice. Its
rear is of a deep red, dullish free-stone, and in a
far better taste. It is not unlike the facade of
the Hotel des Monnaies at Paris; though not quite
so large, more wrought, and 1 think something
handsomer. . v . :

The moment the rear of the City Hall was seen.

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176 MATERIAL FOR BUILDIlVfGS. CHURCHES.

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I was struck with an impression of the magnifi-
cent effect which might be produced by the use
of its material in gothic architecture. It seems
to me to be the precise colour that good taste
would select for the style, and the stone possesses
the advantage of being easily worked, and is far
less fragile than the common building materials
of the vicinity of Paris. While the modern gothic
is much condemned, every body appears willing
to admit that it is the most imposing style for
churches. I can see no reason why that which
every body likes should not be done; and nothing
is easier than to omit those horrible images and
excrescences which we should not tolerate in the
finest cathedrals of Europe, if they did not furnish
unequivocal evidences of the humours of the age
in which they were carved.

New York is rich in churches, if number
alone be considered. I saw more than a dozen
in the process of construction, and there is
scarce a street of any magnitude that does not
possess one. There must be at least a hundred,
and there may be many more. But in a country
where the state does not meddle with religion,
une is not to look for much splendour in its
religious edifices. Private munificence cannot
equal the expenditures of a community. Besides,
I am told it is a laudable practice of the rich in
this country, instead of concentrating their efforts
to rear up one magnificent monument of their

LIIJKKAJ.ITV OF RKlJCilOl S SKvTS.

17:

liberality, to bestow sufficient to meet the wants of
a particular parish in a style suited to its charjicter,
and then to give, freely, aid to some other congrega-
tion of their faith that may be struggling into exist-
ence, perhaps, in a distant part of the country. In-
deed, instances are said to be frequent, in which af-
fluent men contribute cheerfully and liberally to as-
sist in the erection of churches of a persuasion diffe-
rent from their own. You are to recollect that a terri-
tory large as a third of Europe, has to be furnished
with places of worship by a population which does
not exceed that of Prussia, and that too by volun-
tary contributions. In estimating what has been
done in America in all things, it is absolutely ne-
cessary to do justice, and for a right understand-
ing of the case, to remember the time, the means,
and the amount that was to be executed. An honest
consideration of these material points can alone
show the true character of the country. For my
own part, when I reflect on the extended division
of the inhabitants, and on the absolute necessity of
so much of their eflbrts being expended in meeting
the first wants of civilized life, I am astonished to
find how much they have done to embellish and
improve it. Under this view of the subject,
though certainly under no other, even their works
of art become highly respectable. There is
not much pretension to good taste in a great
majority of their public edifices, nor is there much
more ground to claim it in any other country, so

VOL. I. N

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178

CHURCHES. TASTE. RELIGION'.

i I

far as modern architecture is concerned. Most of
the churches in New York are of brick, and con-
structed internally, with direct reference to the
comfort of the congregations, who, as you know,
in most Protestant countries, remain when they
once enter the temple. There are, however,
some churches in this city that would make a
creditable appearance any where among similar
modern constructions ; but it is in the number,
rather than in the elegance of these buildings,
that the Americans have reason to pride them-
selves.

Whatever you may have heard concerning
neglect of religion on this side of the water, so
far as the portion of the country I have seen is
concerned, disbelieve. It is the language of
malice and not of truth. So far as the human eye
can judge, there is at least as much respect paid
to religion in the northern and middle states, as
in any part of the world I have ever visited. Were
the religion ofEurope to be stripped of its externals,
and to lose that deference which the influence of
the state and of the clergy produces, among a
poor who are so dependant ; in short, were man
left to himself, or subject only to the impulses
of public opinion, and the influence of voluntary
instruction, as here, I am persuaded it v/ould be
found that there is vastly more. There is much
cant, and much abuse of cant, in America, just as
elsewhere ; but I have been in numberless

APPARENT ATTEXTIOX TO llELIGIOX.

179

churches here ; watched the people in their in-
gress and egress ; have examined the crowd of
men no less than of women, that followed the
summons of the parish bell ; and, in fine, have
studied all their habits on those points which the
conscience may be supposed to influence, and,
taking town and country together, I should not
know where to turn to find a population more uni-
form in their devotions, more guarded in their dis-
course, or more consistent in all their practices.
No stronger proof can be given of the tone of the
country in respect to religion than the fact, that
men who wish to stand well in popular favour are
compelled to fain it at least ; public opinion pro-
ducing in this way, a far more manifest effect here
than does state policy in our hemisphere. These
remarks are of course only made in reference to
what I have yet seen, but they may serve as a
standard to compare by, when we shall come to
speak of the other portions of the republic.

My paper is exhausted, and I shall refer you to
the colonel, whom I know you are to meet at
Palermo, for a continuation of the subject on some
of those branches in which his nicer tact may
find peculiar sources of interest. — Adieu.

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( 180 )

TO THE COUNT JULES DE BETHIZY,

COLONEL EN RETRAITE OF THE IMPERIAL GUARD.

New York,

A MAN who has revelled so often on the delicacies
of Very and Robert ; who has so long flourished
with eclat in the saloons of the modern queen of
cities ; who has sickened his taste under the arches
of the Colliseum, or on the heights of the Acropolis,
and who must have often cast a glance at that
jewel of architectui 0, the Bourse of Paris, as he has
hurried into its din to learn the fate of his last in-
vestment in the three per cents of M. de Villele,
may possibl)^ turn with disdain from a descrip-
tion of the inartificial beauties of nature, a re-
publican drawing-room, or a mall in a commercial
town of North America. But you will remem-
ber how often I have passed the bridge of Lodi
in your company, (n^ethinks I hear the whizzing
of the bullets now !) how patiently I have listened
to your sonnets on the mien and mind of Sophie,
and how meekly I have seen you discussing the
fragments of a pate de foie gras, without so much
as begrudging you a mouthful of the unctious
morsel, though it were even the last. Presuming
on this often tried, and seemingly inexhaustible
patienoe, I shall proceed to trespass on your
more elevated pursuits in the shape of one of my

POPULATION OF \K\V VORK.

181

desultory accounts of the manners and mode of
life of the grave burghers of New York. .^
.. I may say openly to you, what consideration
for the national pride of Kemperfelt may have
suppressed in my letters to him, that very little
of its former usages can now be traced in the
ancient capital of the New Netherlands. One
hears certain sonorous names in the streets
to remind him of the original colony, it is true,
but with these rare memorials of the fact, and
a few angular, sidelong edifices, that resemble
broken fragments of prismatic ice, there
is no other passing evidence of its former exist-
ence. I have elsewhere said that the city of New
York is composed of inhabitants from all the
countries of Christendom, Beyond a doubt a
very large majority, perhaps nine-tenths, are
natives of the United States ; but it is not pro-
bable that one- third who live here first saw the
light on the island of Manhattan. It is computed
that one in three are either natives of New
England, or are descendants of those who have
emigrated from that portion of the country. To
these must be added the successors of the Dutch,
the English, the French, the Scotch and the Irish,
and not a few who came in their proper persons
from the countries occupied by these several
nations. In the midst of such a melange of
customs and people, it is exceedingly difficult to
extract any thing like a definite general character.

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182 INFLUENCE OF THE YANKEES. MARKETS.

Perhaps there is none that can be given, without
great allowance, to this community. Though
somewhat softened, a good deal of that which is
distinctive between the puritans and their brethren
of the other states, is said to continue to exist for a
long period after their emigration. As the former
generally go to those points where they are
tempted by interest, in great numbers, it is proba-
ble that they communicate quite as much, or, con-
sidering their active habits, perhaps more, of cha-
racter, than they receive. With these warnings,
to take all I say with due allowance, I shall pro-
ceed to mv task.

To commence ab originey I shall speak of the
products of nature, which, if endowed with suit-
able capabilities, rarely fail of favour in your eyes.
I know no spot of the habitable world to which
the culinary sceptre is so likely to be transferred,
when the art shall begin to decline in your own
renowned capital, as this city. It is difficult to
name fish, fowl, or beast that is not, either in
its proper person, or in some species nearly allied
to it, to be obtained in the markets of New York.
The exceptions that do certainly occur, are more
than balanced by the animals that are peculiar to
the country. Of fish alone, a gentleman here, of
a spirit not uncongenial to your own, has named
between seventy and eighty varieties, all of which
are edible; most of which are excellent; and
some of whici:i it would be the pride of my heart

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FISH, FOWL, (J A ME, ETC.

183

to see placed within the control of your scientific
skill. Of fowls there are a rare and admirable
collection ! I have had a list nearly, or quite as
long as the catalogue of fishes placed before me,
and it would do your digestive powers good to
hear some of the semi-barbarous epicures of this
provincial town expatiate on the merits of grouse,
canvas-backs, brants, plover, wild turkies, and
all the et ccBttras of the collection. In respect to
the more vulgar products of regular agriculture I
shall say nothing. They are to be found here, as
elsewhere, with the exception, that, as a great
deal is still left to nature, perfection and variety
in vegetables is not as much attended to as in the
vicinity of older and larger places. But of the
game I may speak with confidence ; for, little as
I have yet seen of it, <?.t this particular season, one
moutkril is sufficient to prove that there is a dif-
ference between a partridge and a hen, greater
than what is demonstrated by the simple fact that
one sleeps on a roost, and the other in a tree.
That delicious, wild, and peculiar flavour, that we
learned to prize on the frontiers of Poland, and in
the woods of Norway, exists in every thing that
ranges the American forest. They tell me that
so very dependant is the animal on the food it
eats for its flavour, that the canvas-back of the
Hudson, which, in the eyes of M. de BufFon, would
be precisely the same bird as that of the Chesa-
peake, is in truth endowed with another nature ;

. f .

J84 Fia US. s\s kktnkss of tuk iiKuuACiK.

that is to say, in all those useful purposes for
which a canvas-back wis beyond a doubt created.
But these are still matters of faith with me, though
the delicacy of the plover, the black-iish, the
sheep's head, the woodcock, and numberless other
delightful inhabitants of these regions, dispose me
to believe all I hear.

Of the fruits I can speak of my own knowledge.
The situation of New York is singularly felicitous
in this respect. In consequence of the great
range of the thermometer, there is scarce a fruit
which will endure the frost that is not found in a
state nearly approaching to perfection. Indeed,
either owing to the freshness of the soil, or the
genial influence of the sun, or to both, there is an
extraordinary flavour imparted to most of the ani-
mal and vegetable food which I have tasted. Cad-
wallader reasons on the subject in this manner,
assuming, what I believe to be true, that most of
the meats, no less than the fruits, possess this pe-
culiar richness and delicacy of taste. He says,
that in Europe the value of land is commonly so
great, that the cattle are obliged to crop all the
herbage, whereas, in America, the animal is usu-
ally allowed to make its choice, and that, too,
often amid such a delicious odour of the white or
natural clover of the country, as might cause even
a miserable victim of the anger of Djezzar Pacha
momentarily to forget his nasal delapidation. I
wish now to be understood as speaking literally, and

IN'FLIJKXCK OF THE SUN OX TIIK PLANTS. 185

not In those terms of exaggeration which are
perhaps appropriate to the glories of a well-or-
dered banquet. I scarce remember any fragrance
equal to that I have scented in the midst of a
field of this clover. My companion tells me he
was first made sensible of this peculiarity in the
herbage of his native country, by remarking how
comparatively devoid of scent was a field of buck-
wheat, by the sid-' of which he was once walking
in the centre of France. Now, buck-wheat in this
climate is a plant that exhales a delicious odour
that is often to be scented at the distance of a
quarter of a mile. In short, so far as my own
observation has extended, the sun imparts a fla-
vour to every grass, plant, or fruit here, that must
be tasted, and tasted with discrimination, in order
to be appreciated. Yet man has done but little
to improve these inestimable advantages. There-
is no extraordinary show of fruits in the public
market-places. Peaches, cherries, melons, and a
fewothers of the common sorts, it is true, abound ;
but the Americans appear not to be disposed to
make much sacrifice of time, or money, to the cul-
tivation of the rarer sorts. I cannot close this sub-
ject, however, without making one remark on the
nature of a peculiar difference that I have noticed
between the fruits of this country, and those of your
own capital in particular. A French peach is juicy,
and, when you first bring it in contact with
your palate, sweet, but it leaves behind it a cold.

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18G

DELICACY OK MKLONS AND PEACHES.

watery, and almost sour taste. It is for this reason
so often eaten with sugar. An American is ex-
ceedingly apt to laugh if he sees ripe fruit of any
sort eaten with any thing sweet. T' peaches here
leave behind a warm, rich, anc delicious taste,
that I can only liken in its effects to that which
you call the bouquet of a glass of Romance. You
who, as a Parisian, say so much for, and think so
much of, your gdut, may be disposed to be incre-
dulous when I tell you these people would posi-
tively reject the best melon that ever appears on
your table. There is a little one to be picked up
in the markets here for a few sous, say twelve at
the utmost, thai exceeds any thing, of its kind,
that I have ever admitted into the sanctuary of
my mouth. I want terms to describe it. It is
firm, and yet tender; juicy, without a particle of
the cold, watery taste we know, and of an incom-
parable flavour and sweetness. Its equal can
only be found in the Crimea, or the adjacent
parts of Turkey, and perhaps of Persia. The
Americans admit that it is the only melon that
can appear on the table of one who understands
the difference between eating and tasting, and to
me it seems to have been especially created for an
epicure. In the gardens of the gentlemen you
find not only a greater variety, but, a few common
fruits excepted, a far better quality than in the
markets. I have tasted a great many old ac-?
quaintances, transplanted from the eastern to the

AUGUMENT OF CADWALLADEU.

187

western hemisphere, and 1 declare I do not re-
member one that has not been benefited by the
change, in flavour, though not always in appear-
ance. It is a standing joke of Cadwallader to
say his countrymen consult the substance much
more than the shadow, when I venture to qualify
my praises by some remark on externals. I
remember, however, one day he effectually si-
lenced my criticism, by leading me to a peach
tree that grew in the shade of an adjacent
building. The fruit was beautiful, exceedingly
large, and without a blemish. Culling one of the
finest, I bit it, and involuntarily rejected what
I had so incautiously admitted to my mouth.
Then placing a peach which had grown in the
open air, into my hands, my con oanion pointed
significantly to the sun, and walked on, leaving
me to reflect on an argument that was more
potent than a thousand words.

And yet I have met, during my short residence
in America, Europeans who have affected to rail
at, or even to deny the existence of her fruits !
I have always wished, on such occasions, that I
could transport the products of one of the la-
boured gardens of our hemisphere into this, and
set them to culling without a knowledge of the
transfer. My life on it, their own palates would
contradict their assertions in the first five minutes.

Indeed, one has only to remember that the
United States extend from forty-five to twenty-

h !

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five degrees of latitude, to see that Nature has
placed their dominions in the very centre of her
most favoured regions. There is, too, a peculiarity
of climate here, which is unknown to similar paral-
lels of latitude in Europe. The apple and the
peach are found in perfection, side by side ; and in
such a perfection, too, as, believe me, dear colonel,
you must seek for the equal of the one in Italy, and
that of the other, I scarcely know where.

Owing to the facility and const? ncy of inter-
course with the Southern States, the fruits of the
tropics are found here, not quite as fresh, cer-
tainly, as when first culled from the plant itself,
but well flavoured, and in absolute contact with
the products of the temperate zones. Pine apples,
large, rich, golden, and good, are sold from
twelve to twenty-five sous ; delicious oranges are
hawked in the streets much cheaper than a toler-
able apple can be bought in the shops of Paris,
and bannanas, yams, water-melons, &c., are as
common as need be in the markets. It is this
extraordinary combination of the effects of dif-
ferent climates, the union of heat and cold, and
of commercial facilities, added to the rare bounties
of Nature, that incline me to think the empire of
gastronomy will, sooner or later, be transferred to
this spot. At present it must be confessed that
the science is lamentably defective, and, after all,
perhaps, it is in those places where Nature has
been most liberal that man is apt to content him-

STYLK OK LIVING. KMil.lSlI lOMrOHT. 189

self, without exerting those efforts of his own, with-
out which no perfect enjoyment in any branch of
human indulgence can exist. '

Passing from the means of gratification possessed
by these people, we will turn our attention, for a
moment, to the manner in which they are im-
prov«;d. The style of living of all the Americans,
in the Northern States, is essentially English. As
might be expected in a country where labour is
comparatively high, and the fortunes, though
great, still not often so princely as in the mother
country, the upper classes live in a more simple
form, wanting some of the most reftned improve-
ments of high English life, and yet indulging,
under favour of their climate, situation and great
commercial freedom, in perhaps a greater combi-
nation of luxury and comfort than any other peo-
ple of the world. In respect of comfort itself,
there is scarce any known in England, that is not
to be found here ; the point of difference is in its
frequency. You are, therefore, to deduct rather
in the amount of English comfort, than in its
quality; and you are not to descend far below
the refinements at all, since all the substantials of
that comfort which makes England so remarkable
in Europe, are to be found equally in America.
There are points, perhaps, even in the latter, in
which the Englishman (rarely very much dis-
posed to complacency) would complain in Ame-
rica ; and there are, certainly, others, on which

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190

CONDITION OF PEOPLE.

U'^-t

I) ' * '

the American (who has a cast of the family hke-
ness) would boldly vent his spleen in England.
I am of opinion the two nations might benefit a
good deal by a critical examination of each other.
Indeed, I think the American has, and does, daily
profit by his observation, though I scarce know
whether his kinsman is yet disposed to admit
that he can learn by the study of a people so new,
so remote, and so little known, as those of the
United States.

After you descend below the middle classes in
society, there is no comparison to be drawn
between the condition of the American and that
of the native of England, or of any other place.
I have seen misijry here, it is true, and filth, and
squalid, abject poverty, always in the cities,
however ; but it is rare ; that is, rare indeed to
what I have been accustomed to see in Europe.
At first, I confess there was a feeling of disap-
pointment came over me at seeing it at all ; but
reflection convinced me of the impossibility of
literally bringing all men to a state in which they
might profit by the advantages of their condition.
Cadwallader, also, who has a silent, significant
manner of conveying truths, has undeceived me
more than orice when I have been on the very
threshold of an error. I remember that one day,
while I stood contemplating, in the suburbs of
this city, a scene of misery that one might not
have expected to witness out of Europe, he ad-

]i :i

MANY OF THE POOR FOREIGXERS. ANECDOTE. 191

vanced to the door of the dreary hovel I gazed at,
and asked the inhabitants how long they had
resided in America. The answer proved that he
had not deceived himself as to the birth-place of
its luckless tenants. In this manner, in more than a
dozen instances, he has proved that his own coun-
try has not given birth to the vice and idleness
which here could alone entail such want. In perhaps
as many more instances he has passed on, shaking
his head at my request that he would examine
the causes, admitting frankly that he saw the
subjects were natives. It is astonishing how ac-
curate his eye is in making this distinction. I do
not know that he has been deceived in a solitary
instance. Where misery is so rare, it is a vast
deal to admit, that perhaps half of its objects are
the victims of a different system than that under
which it is exhibited.*

* Cadwallader related a little anecdote which goes to prove the
danger of hasty conclusions. Shortly after the war, an English
naval captain visited an estate of which he was the proprietor in the
state of New York. He had occasion to get his carriage repaired in
a village of the interior. My friend found him railing at the addic-
tion of the Americans to the vice of intoxication. He had been to
three mechanics that morning, to hasten the work, and two of them
were too drunk to execute his orders. Cadwallader demanded the
names of the two delinquents ; both of whom proved to be coun-
trymen of the captain, while the only native American was the sober
individual. The fact is, the poor of Europe, when they find them-
selves transplanted into the abundance of America, are exceedingly
apt to abuse the advantage. The Scotch, the Swiss, the French,

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192 NEATNESS. liUIELIAXCV OF THE CMMATE.

There is something exceedingly attractive in the
exhibition of neatness and domestic comfort which
one sees throughout this country. I think the bril-
liancy of the climate, the freshness of the paint,
and the exterior ornaments of the houses, contri-
bute to the charm. There is a species of second
rate, genteel houses, that abound in New York,
into which I have looked when passing, with the
utmost pleasure. They have, as usual, a story that
is half sunk in the earth, receiving light from an
area, and two floors above. The tenants of these
buildings are chiefly merchants, or professional
men, in moderate circumstances, who pay rents of
from 300 to 500 dollars a year. You know that no
American, who is at all comfortable in life, will
share his dwelling with another. Each has his own
roof, and his own little yard. These buildings are
finished, and exceedingly well finished too, to the
attics : containing, on the average, six rooms,
besides , offices, and servants' apartments. The
furniture of these houses is often elegant, and
always neat. Mahogany abounds here, and is
commonly used for all the principal articles, and
very frequently for doors, railings of stairs, &c. &c.
Indeed, the whole world contributes to their
luxury. French clocks, English and Brussels car-
pets, curtains from Lyons, and the Indies, ala-

and the Germans, are said to be the most prudent, and the Irish
and the English the most indiscreet. With the latter it often hap-
pens that the vice we speak of is the actual cause of their emigration.

> I

FrRNlSUUK OF HOUSES.

103

baster from France and Italy, marble of their own,
and from Italy, and, in short, every ornament
below the rarest that is known in every other
country in Christendom, and frequently out of it, is
put within the reach of the American of moderate
means, by the facilities of their trade. In that
classical taste which has been so happily commu-
nicated to your French artizans, their own are,
without doubt, miserably deficient ; but they are
good imitators, and there is no scarcity of models.
While, in consequence of want of taste or want
of wealth, the Americans possess, in very few
instances, anyone of the articles that contribute to
the grace of life in the same perfection as they are
known in some one other country, they enjoy, by
means of their unfettered trade, a combination
of the same species of luxuries, in a less advanced
state, that is found no where else. They often,
nay, almost always, fail in the particular excel-
lence, but they possess an aggregate of approxi-
mate perfection that is unrivalled, perhaps, even
in England ; certainly if we descend below the
very highest classes in the latter country. ,

But there are hundreds, I believe I might almost
say a thousand, houses in New York of preten-
sions altogether superior to those just named. A
particular description of one belonging to a friend
of Cadwallader, by whose favour I was permitted
to examine it, may serve to give you an idea of
the whole of its class. The proprietor is a gentle-

VOL. 1. u

194 DESCRIPTION OF A PRIVATE RESIDENCE.

man of the first society of the country, and of
what is here called an easy fortune, though hun-
dreds of his neighbours enjoy the goods of this
world in a far greater degree than himself.

The dwelling of Mr. is on the Broadway,

one of the principal streets that runs on the
height of land along the centre of the island, for the
distance of about two miles. It is the fashionable
mall of the city, and certainly, for gaiety, the
beauty and grace of the beings who throng
it, and, above all, the glorious sun that seems
to reign here three days out of four, it may
safely challenge competition with most if not any
of the promenades of the old world. The house in
question occupies, I should think, a front of about
thirty-four feet on the Broadway, and extends into
the rear between sixty and seventy more. There
are no additions, the building ascending from the
ground to its attics in the same proportions. The
exterior necessarily presents a narrow, ill an anged
facade, that puts architectural beauty a good deal
at defiance. The most that can be done with such
a front is to abstain from inappropriate ornament,
and to aim at such an effect as shall convey a pro-
per idea of the more substantial comforts, and of
the neatness that predominate within. The build-
ing is of bricks, painted and lined, as already
described, and modestly ornamented, in a very
good taste, with caps, sills, cornices, &c. &c. in
the dark red freestone of the country. The house

NEATNESS, l NCONVENfENCES, ETC.

195

is of four stories ; the lower, or rez de chaussee,
being half sunk, as is very usual, below the surface
of the ground, and the three upper possessing
elevations well proportioned to the height of the
edifice. The door is at one of the corners of the
front, and is nearly on a ^evel with the windows of
the first floor, which may commence at the dis-
tance of about a dozen feet above the pavement of
the street. To reach this door, it is necessary to
mount a flight of steep, inconvenient steps, also in
freestone, which compensate, in a slight degree,
for the pain of the ascent, (neither of us, colonel,
is as young now as the day you crossed the bridge
of Lodi,) by their admirable neatness, and the
perfect order of their iron rails and glittering brass
ornaments. The entrance is into a little vestibule,
which may be some twelve feet long, by eight in
width. This apartment is entirely unfurnished,
and appears only constructed to shelter visiters
while the servant is approaching to admit them
through the inner door. The general excellence
of the climate, and, perhaps, the customs of the
country, have, as yet, prevented the Americans
from providing a proper place for the reception
of the servants of their guests : they rarely wait,
. unless during the short calls, and then it is always
in the street. As visiters are never announced,
and as but one family occupies the same building,
there is little occasion, unless to assist in unrobing,
for a servant to attend his master, or mistress,

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196

MANNER OF FrNrsiIING FURNITURE.

within the outer door. From the vestibule the
entrance is into a long, narrow, high, and hand-
some corridor, at the farther extremity of which
are the principal stairs. This corridor, or passage,
as it is called here, is carpeted, lighted with a hand-
some lamp, has a table, and a few chairs ; and,
in short, is just as unlike a French corridor as any
thing of the sort can very well be. From this
passage you enter the rooms on the first floor ;
you ascend to the upper, and descend to the lower
story, and you have egress from and ingress to the
house by its front and rear. The first floor is
occupied by two rooms that communicate by
double doors. These apartments are of nearly
equal size, and, subtracting the space occupied
by the passage, and two little china closets,
that partially separate them, they cover the whole
area of the house. Each room is lighted by two
windows ; is sufficiently high ; has stuccoed ceil-
ing, and cornices in white ; hangings of light,
airy, French paper ; curtains in silk and in mus-
lin ; mantle-pieces of carved figures in white
marble (Italian in manufacture, I should think) ;
Brussels carpets ; large mirrors ; chairs, sofas,
and tables, in mahogany ; chandeliers ; beautiful,
neat, and highly wrought grates in the fire-places
of home work; candelabras, lustres, &c. &c., much
as one sees them all over Europe. In one of the
rooms, however, is a spacious, heavy, ill-looking
side-board, in mahogany, groaning with plate.

DEFECTS ; BAD TASTE.

197

knife and spoon cases, all handsome enough, I
allow, but s?dly out of place where they are seen.
Here is the first great defect that I find in the
ordering of American domestic economy. The
eating, or dining-room, is almost invariably one
of the best in the house. The custom is certainly
of English origin, and takes its rise in the habit
of sitting an hour or two after the cloth is re-
moved, picking nuts, drinking wine, chatting,
yawning, and gazing about the apartment. The
first great improvement to be made in the house-
hold of these people is to substitute taste for
prodigality in their tables; and the second, I
think, will be to choose an apartment for their
meals, that shall be convenient to the offices,
suited to the habits of the family, plain in its
ornaments, and removed from the ordinary occu-
pations of those who are to enjoy it. In some
houses this is already partially effected ; but, as
a rule, I am persuaded that the American guest,
who should find himself introduced into a salle a
manger as plain as that in which a French duke
usually takes his repast, would not think his host
a man who sufficiently understood the fitness of
things. I have heard it said, that the occupant
of the White House* gives his dinners in one of
these plain rooms, and that the meanness of Con-
gress is much laughed at because they do not
order one better furnished for him. Certes if

* The President of the United Stales.

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198

KKFKCTS OF CLEAR ATMOSFJl KUK.

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Congress never showed a worse taste than this,
they might safely challenge criticism. As the
president, or his wife, directs these matters, I
suppose, however, the great national council is
altogether innocent of the innovation.

You ascend, by means of the stairs at the end
of the passage, into what is here called the second
story, but which, from the equivocal character of
the basement, it is difficult to name correctly. This
ascent is necessarily narrow, crowded, and incon-
venient. The beautiful railings in mahogany and
brass, and the admirable neatness of every part
of an American house of any pretension, would
serve to reconcile one to a thousand defects. As
respects this cardinal point, I think there is little
difference between the English and the Ameri-
cans, at least, so far as I have yet seen the latter ;
but the glorious sun of this climate illumines every
thing to sach a degree, as to lend a quality of
brightness that is rarely known in Britain. You
know that a diamond will hardly glitter in London.
It must also be remembered that an American
house is kept in this order by the aid of perhaps
one third of the domestics that would be employed
in the mother country.

On the second floor (or perhaps you will get a
better idea if I call it the first) of the house of
Mr. , there is a spacious saloon, which oc-
cupies the whole width of the building, and
possesses a corresponding breadth. This apart-

■I, ..

MANNER OF WORKMANSHIP, ETC.

199

'■ I

ment, being exclusively that of the mistress of
the mansion, is furnished with rather more deli-
cacy than those below. The curtains are in blue
India damask, the chairs and sofa of the same
coloured silk, and other things are made to cor-
respond. The library of the husband is on the
same floor, and between the two is a room which
is used as a bed-chamber. The third story is
appropriated to the sleeping-rooms of the family ;
the attic to the same purpose for the servants, and
the basement contains a nursery and the usual
offices. The whole building is finished with great
neatness, and with a solidity and accuracy of
workmanship that it is rare to meet in Europe,
out of England. The doors of the better rooms
are of massive mahogany, and wherever wood is
employed, it is used with great taste and skill.
All the mantel-pieces are marble, all the floors
are carpeted, and all the walls are finished in a
firm, srcooth cement.

I have been thus minute in my account, be-
cause, in describing the house of Mr. , I

am persuaded that I convey a general idea of those
of all of the upper classes in the northern section
of this country. There are, certainly, much larger
and more pretending buildi^'.gs than his in New
York, and many far richer and more highly
wrought ; but this is the habitation of an Ameri-
can in the very best society, who is in easy
circumstances, of extensive and high connexions.

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200 COMPAUI.SOX M'lTII OTHER DWELLIXtJS.

and who receives a fair proportion of his ac-
quaintances. By extending the building a little,
adding something to the richness of the furniture,
and now and then going as far as two or three
cabinet pictures, you will embrace thj establish-
ments of the most affluent ; and by curtailing the
whole, perhaps, to the same degree, you will in-
clude an immense majority of all that part of the
community who can lay claim to belong to the
class of ics gens comme il faiit. It is here, as
elsewhere, a fact that the parvenus are com-
monly the most lavish in their expenditures, either
because money is a novelty, or, what is more
probably the case, because they find it necessary
to purchase consideration by its liberal use. We
will now quit this dwelling, in which I am fond of
acknowledging that I have been received with the
most kind and polished hospitality, by its exe-
crable flight of steps, and descend into the street.
The New Yorkers (how much better is the word
Manhattanese !) cherish the olumsy inconvenient
entrances, I believe, as heir-looms of their Dutch
progenitors. They are called " stoops," a word
of whose derivation I am ignorant, though that
may be of Holland too, and they are found dis-
figuring the architecture, cumbering the side
walks, and endangering the human neck, at-
tached to the front doors of more than two thirds
of the .dwellings of this city. A better taste is,
however, gradually making its way, and houses

shops; compauki) with i-ukncii housks. 201

with regular basements are seen, in which the
occupants can ascend to their apartments without
encountering: the dangers that in winter must fre-
quently equal those of an ascent to the summit of
Mont Blanc.

You will see, by the foregoing description, that
the family of an American gentleman in town,
though not always so conveniently, is on the whole
about as well lodged as the great majority of the
similar class in your own country. The house of

Mr. contains, including three capacious

saloons, ten considerable rooms, besides offices,
and servants' chambers. The deficiency is in the
dining-room, in the inconvenience of the narrow
stairs, and in the bad division of the principal
apartments on the different floors; a fault that
arises from the original construction of the building.
Though the ornaments are in general more simple,
the Americans have in very many things a great
advantage. Profiting by their nearly unshackled
commerce, they import any thing they choose,
and adopt, or reject its use, as fancy dictates.
Almost every article of foreign industry can be
purchased here at a very small advance on the
original cost, and in many instances even cheaper.
Competition is so active, and information so uni-
versal, and so rapidly imparted, that a monopoly
can hardly exist for a week, and a glut is far
more common than a scarcity.

!•

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202 KF.ASONS FOR THE I NTKUM KDI ATK TASTE.

S I "■ ■'

You will also see by what I have written, that
the Americans have not yet adopted a style of
architecture of their own. Their houses are still
essentially English, though neither the winters
nor the summers of their climate would seem to
recommend them. There is, however, something
in the opposite characters of the two seasons, to
render a choice difficult. A people in whose country
the heats of Florence and the colds of St. Peters-
burg periodically prevail, may well hesitate be-
tween a marble fountain and a Russian stove. I
am not certain that, considering |^ their pursuits,
and the peculiarity of climate, they are very wrong
in their present habits. But I shall for ever
protest against the use of carpets, while the ther-
mometer is at 90°, nor shall I soon cease to de-
claim against those hideous excrescences called
** stoops." Beautiful, fragrant, and cool India
mats, are) notwithstanding, much in use in mid-
summer, in the better houses. Still, with all my
efforts, I have not been able to iind a room to
sleep in, that is not fortified with a Brussels, or a
double English ingrain. The perspiration stands
on my forehead while I write of them ! Another
defect in the American establishments is the want
of cabinets de toilette. They are certainly to be
found in a few houses, but I have occupied a bed-
room five and-twenty-feet square, in a house, other-
wise convenient, that had not under its roof a

KQUIPAtiKS (O.MPAKKI) Willi KIKOPFAN. 203

single apartment of the sort. This is truly a sad
prodigality of room, though space be unques-
tionably so very desirable in a warm climate.

I should think about the same proportion of the
inhabitants keep carriages here as in France. But
the ordinary coaches of the stands in New York
are quite as good, and often far better than those
voitures dc remise that one usually gets by the day
in Paris. There is even a still better class of
coaches to be ordered by the day, or hour, from
the stables, which are much used by the inhabi-
tants. The equipages of this city, with the
exception of liveries, and heraldic blazonries,
are very much like those of your own mighty
capital. When I first landed, coming as I did
from England, 1 thought the coaches so exceed-
ingly light as to be mean ; but, too experienced
a traveller to be precipitate, I waited for the old
impressions to lose a little of their influence be-
fore an opinion was formed, and in a short time I
came to see their beauties. Cadwallader told me
that when he first arrived in England, he v/as
amazed at the clumsiness of the English vehicles,
but that time, by rendering them familiar, soon
changed his opinion. We went together lately to
examine a coach from London, which its owner
had abandoned, either in distaste, or because he
found it unsuited to the country, and really it was
calculated to renew all the original opinions of
my friend. I have heard of an American who

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204

KFFECTS OF HABIT ON THE TASTE.

carried to England one of the light vehicles of
his country, and after it had arrived, he was
positively ashamed to exhibit it among its pon-
derous rivals. In this manner do we all become
the subjects of a capricious and varying taste
that is miserably dependent on habit; a fact,
simple as it is, which might teach moderation
and modesty to all young travellers, and rather
less dogmatism than is commonly found among
some that are older — .Adieu.

'I*

TO THE COMTE JULES DE BETHIZY,

New York

It may be premature to pretend to speak with
any certainty concerning the true state of or-
dinary American society. My opinions have
already undergone two or three revolutions on the
subject, for it is so easy, where no acknowledged
distinctions prevail, for a stranger to glide imper-
ceptibly from one circle to another, that the im-
pressions they leave are very apt to be con-
founded. I have never yet conversed with any
declaimer on the bad tone of republican manners
(and they are not wanting), who has not been
ready enough to confess this, or that, individual

MANNERS OF AMERICAN SOCIETY.

205

an eminent exception. Now, it never appears to
enter into the heads of these Chesterfieldian
critics, that the very individuals in question are so
many members of a great class, that very well
know how to marshal themselves in their ordinary
intercourse with each other, although, to a stran-
ger, they may seem no more than insulated excep-
tions, floating, as it were by accident, on the bosom
of a motley, and frequently far from inviting state
of society. I think, however, that it is not diffi-
cult to see, at a glance, that even the best bred
people here maintain their intercourse among
each other, under far fewer artificial forms than
are to be found in almost any other country. Sim-
plicity of deportment is usually the concomitant
of good sense every where ; but, in America, it
is particularly in good taste. It would be a
gratuitous weakness in a people who have boldly
denounced the dominion of courts, to descend to
imitate the cumberous forms which are perhaps
necessary to their existence, and which so insen-
sibly get disseminated, in mawkish imitations,
among those who live in their purlieus. Direct
in their thoughts, above the necessity of any
systematic counterfeiting, and in almost every
instance, secure of the ordinary means of exist-
ence, it is quite in nature that the American, in
his daily communications, should consult the truth
more, and conventional deception less, than those
who are fettered and restrained by the thousand

206

LESS ARTIFICIAL THAN IX EUROPE.

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pressures of a highly artificial state of being. The
boasted refinement of the most polished court in
Europe is, after all, no more than expertness in a
practice, which the Persian, with his semi-barba-
rous education, understands better than the veriest
courtier of them all. That rare and lofty courtesy,
in which the party knows how to respect himself,
by sacrificing no principle while he reconciles his
companion to the stern character of his morals by
grace of mien and charity to his weaknesses, is, I
think, quite as common here as we are wont to
find it in Europe. In respect to those purely con-
ventional forms, that receive value only from their
use, and which are so highly prized by weak
minds, because so completely within their reach,
and which even become familiar to strong ones
from an indisposition to dispute their sway, are
in no great favour here. Perhaps the circum-
stance that people of education, fortune, connec-
tions, and, of course, of similar turn of mind, are
so much separated by the peculiarity of the state
governments, into the coteries of twenty capital
towns instead of those of one, is the chief reason
that they are neglected ; for all experience proves
that fashion is a folly which merely needs soil to
take deep root. Indeed I am not sure that this
species of exotic will not, at some future day,
luxuriate in America to a greater degree, than it
even thrives in the fertile regions of the east. It
is certain, that in England, the country most re-

"if.

INFLUENCE OF FASHION.

207

sembling this, fashionable society is more tramelled
by fictitious forms, both of speech and deportment,
than in any other European nation. Every where
else, after certain sacrifices are made to decep-
tion and the self-love of second persons, the actor
is left to play his part at the instigations of nature;
but in England there is a fashion for drinking a
glass of wine, for pronouncing, and wzi^pronounc-
ing a word, for even perverting its meaning, for
being polite, and what is still more strange, some-
times for being rude and vulgar. Any one who
has lived twenty years may recal a multitude of
changes that have occurred in the most che-
rished usages of what is called good-breeding.
Now, there must be a reason for all this whimsical
absurdity. Is it not owing to the peculiarly va-
cillating nature of her aristocracy ? In a country
where wealth is constantly bringing new claim-
ants for consideration into the arena of fashion,
(for it is, after all, no more than a struggle for noto-
riety that may be more bloodless, but is not less
bitter than that of the gladiators,) those who are
in its possession contrive all possible means of dis-
tinction between themselves and those who are
about to dispute their ascendancy. Beyond a
doubt what is called high English society, is
more repulsive, artificial and cumbered, and, in
short, more absurd and frequently less graceful
than-that of any other European nation. Still the
EngUsh are a rational, sound, highly reasoning,
manly and enlightened people. It is difficult to

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208

LESS DESPOTIC IIEIIE.

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account for the inconsistency, but by believing
that the struggle for supremacy gives birth to
every species of high-bred folly, among which is
to be numbered no small portion of customs that
vt^ould be more honoured in the breach than in the
observance.

If like causes are always to produce like effects,
the day may come when the same reasons shall
induce the American fashionables of two genera-
tions to lead the fashionables of one, a similar
wild goose chase in quest of the ne plus ultra of
elegance. As the fact now stands, the accessions
to the coteries are so very numerous, and are com-
monly made with strides so rapid, that it is as yet,
fortunately, more likely to give distinction to be
rationally polite, than genteely vulgar.

Of one truth, however, I am firmly persuaded,
that nineteen out of twenty of the strangers who
visit this country, can give no correct analysis of
the manners which prevail in the different circles
that divide this, like all other great communities.
The pursuits and the inclinations of the men bring
them much oftener together than those of the
women. It is therefore among the females that
the nicer and more delicate shades of distinction
are to be sought. The very prevalent notion of
Europe, that society must, of necessity, exist, in
a pure democracy, on terms of promiscuous ?s-
sociation, is too manifestly absurd to need any
contradiction with one who knov/s life as well as
yourself.

INFLtKNCE OF TALENTS, MOXEV, AND BIRTH. 209

It would require the magical power which
that renowned philanthropist, Mr. Owen, ascribes
to his system, to destroy the influence of educa-
tion, talents, money, or even of birth. They all,
in fact, exist in America, just as they do with us,
only modified, and in some degree curtailed.

You may perhaps be startled to hear of
distinction conferred by birth among a people
whose laws deny it a single privilege or im-
munity. Even thousands of Americans them-
selves, who have scarcely descended into their
own system farther than is absolutely requisite to
acquire its general maxims, will stoutly maintain
that it has no reality. I remember to have
heard one of these generalizers characterise the
folly of a young acquaintance by saying, with
peculiar bitterness of tone, " he presumes on his

being the son of ." Now, if some portion

of the consideration of the father were not trans-
missible to the descendant, the latter clearly
could in no degree presume on his birth. It is
fortunate here, as elsewhere, to be the child of a
worthy, or even of an affluent parent. The goods
of the latter descend, by process of law, to the
offspring, and, by aid of public opinion, the son
receives some portion of the renown that has
been earned by the merit of the father. It is use-
less to dwell on those secret and deep rooted
feelings by which man, in all ages, and under
every circumstance, has been willing to permit

VOL. I. p

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210

now FAR BIRTH IS RESPECTED.

M '

this hereditary reflection of character, in order to
prove that human nature must have sway in the
republics of North America, as in the monarchies
of the east. A thousand examples might be
quoted to show that the influence of this senti-
ment of birth, (just so far as it is a sentiment and
not a prejudice,) in not only felt by the people, but
is openly acknowledged by the government of the
country in its practices. Unless I am grossly
misinformed, the relative of one who had served
the state, for instance, would, cceteris paribus^
prevail in an application for the public favour,
over a competitor who could urge no such
additional claim ; and the reason of the decision
would be deemed satisfactory by the nation. No
one would be hardy enough to deny, that, had
Washington left a child, he would have passed
through society, or even before the public, on a
perfect equality with men similarly endowed,
though not similarly born. Just as this here-
ditary advantage would be true in the case of a son
of Washington, it is true, with a lessened effect, in
those of other men. It would be a weak and a
vain, becausa an impracticable and an unwise
attempt, in any people, to reject so sweet an
incentive to virtue on the part of the parent, or so
noble a motive of emulation on that of the child.
It is enough for the most democratic opinions, that
the feeling should be kept within the limits of
reason. The community, in a government tram-

REASONS FOR THE SAME.

211

melled by so few factitious forms, always holds in
its own power a sufficient check on the abuse of
the privilege ; and here, in fact, is to be found the
true point of distinction, not only between the
governments of this and other countries, but be-
tween the conditions of their ordinary society
also. In America, while the claims of individuals
are admitted, it is easy to satisfy, to weaken, or to
lose them. It is not enough simply to be the son
of a great man ; in order to render it of essential
advantage, some portion of his merit must become
hereditary, or the claim had better be suppressed.
Even an honourable name may become matter of
reproach, since, when the public esteem is once
forfeited, the recollection of the ancestor only
serves to heighten the demerit of his delinquent
child. There is no privileged rank under which
he can stalk abroad and flout at the morals, or
offend the honesty of men better than himself,
and the councils of the nation are for ever her-
metically sealed against his entrance.

In society, the punishment of this unworthi-
ness, though necessarily less imposing, is scarcely
less direct and salutary. Nothing is easier than
for a men.ber of any circle to forfeit the pri-
vileges of caste. It is a fact highly credit-
able to the morals of this people, unless close ob-
servation and the opinions of Cadwallader greatly
mislead me, that a circle confessedly inferior will
not receive an outcast from one above it. The

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MORALS XECKSSARY TO IXFLUEXCF..

great qualifications for all are, in moral essentials,
the same. It is not pretended that all men, or even
all women, in the United States, are exemplary in
their habits, or that they live in a state of entire
innocence, compared with that of their fellow mor-
tals elsewhere ; but there is not a doubt that the
tone of manners here requires the utmost seemliness
of deportment •, that suspicion even may become
dangerous to a man, and is almost always fatal to a
woman ; and that as access to the circles is effected
with less difficulty than with us, so is the path of
egress much more readily to be found.

There is a very summary way of accounting for
these things, by saying that all this is no more
than the result of a simple state of society,
and that in the absence of luxury, and espe-
cially in a country where the population is scat-
tered^ the result is precisely that which was to be
expected. Why then is not the tone of manners
as high in South as in North America, or why are
the moralists in the cities quite asfastidious,or even
more so, than those on the most remote borders ?
The truth is, that neither the polity nor the man-
ners of the Americans bear that recent origin we
are wont to give them. Both have substantially
endured the test of two centuries; and though
they are becoming meliorated and more accom-
modating by time, it is idle to say that they are
merely the experiments of the hour. Nor is it
very safe to ascribe any quality, good or bad, to

LUXUKIKS QLITE COMMON.

213

the Americans on account of their being removed
from the temptations of luxury. Th at they have
abstained from excessive indulgence, is more the
effect of taste or principle, than of necessity. I
have never yet visited any country where luxuries
were so completely within the reach of the
majority. It is true that their manners are not
exposed to the temptations of courts ; but it is
equally true that they have deliberately rejected
the use of such a form of government as renders
them necessary.

Before leaving this subject I must explain a
little, or what I have already written may possibly
lead you into error. The influence of birth,
though undoubted, is not to be understood ts
existing here in any thing like the extent, or c en
under the same forms, as in Europe.* The very
nation, which, in tenderness to .-he father, might be

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* We have the authority of a great contemporary (the biographer
of Napoleon) for believing that the science of heraldry reverses the
inferences of reason, by shedding more lustre on the remote descen-
dant than on the founder of an illustrious name. This is, at the
best, but an equivocal acknowledgment, and it is tmdeniably far too
sublimated for the straight going common sense of the Americans.
The writer is incliii'^d to believe that the very opposite ground is
maintained by the proficieiits in American heraldry, or, in other
words, that the great man himself is thought to be the greatest man
of his family, and that the reflection of his talents, probity, couragCj
or for whatever quality he may have been most remarkable, is
thought to shed most lustre on those of his offspring who have lived
nearest to its influence*

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214

AXtXUOTE OK A I AU.MKIl.

disposed to accord a certain deference to the child
who had received his early impressions under such
a man as Washington, would be very apt to turn
a cold and displeased eye on the follies or vices
of a more distant descendant. You may be pre-
pared to answer, *all this reads well, but we will
wait the effects of time on a system that pretends
to elevate itself above the established prejudices of
the rest of the world.' But in what is reason weaker
than prejudice, after its conclusions have been
confirmed by practice? I repeat, these people
are not experimenting, but living in conformity
to usages, and under institutions that have already
been subject to the trials of two hundred years.
So far as I can learn, instead of imperceptibly
falling into the train of European ideas, they
have rather been silently receding ; and if there
has been the least approximation between the
opinions of the two hemispheres on these sub-
jects, the change has been wrought among our-
selves. While travelling in the interior of New
England, an honest looking farmer endeavoured to
read the blazonry that, by the negligf^nce of a
servant, had been suffered to remain on the plate
of one of my travelling cases. I endeavoured to
solve the difficulties of the good man by explain-
ing the use and meaning of the arms. No sooner
did the American find that I was disposed to
humour his curiosity, than he asked several home
questions, that, it must be confessed, were not

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ANECDOTE CONTlNUtl).

215

without their embarrassment. It was necessary
finally to tell him that these were distinctions that
had been conferred by different sovereigns on the
ancestors of the owner of the case. " If there is
no harm in't, may I ask for what?" " For their
courage in battle, and devotion to their princes.**
The worthy republican regarded the plate for
some time intently ; and then bluntly inquired " if
this was all the reward they had received ?" As it
was useless to contend against the prejudices of
an ignorant man, a retreat ' was effected as soon
as convenient.* Notwithstanding these instances
of ignorance, the mass of the people are surpris-
ingly familiar with the divisions of a society that
is so difTerent from their own. While alluding
to armorial bearings, it may be well to add,
that I saw a great number, emblazoned in difFe-

* The simplicity which one finds on these subjects in America,
is often not without amusement. The general use of books, and
the multitude of journals in the United States, certainly prevent
the inhabitants of the country from being as ignorant of the usages
of Europe, as the people of Europe, even oi the better classes, are
commonly of them ; still there are thousands who form droll opi-
nions on the subject of our distinctive habits. A German prince
of the family of Saxe Weimar, was travelling in the United States
during the visit of the writer. He made himself acceptable every
where, by his simplicity and good sense. A little crowd had col«
lected round an inn where he had stopped, and a new comer in-
quired of one of his acquaintance, ** why he stared at the big
man in the piazza ?" " Oh, for nothing at all, only they say he
is a Duke !'* " A Duke ! I wonder what he does for a living ?"

216

AKMOKIAL iJEAUlNGS.

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rent materials, suspended from the walls of the
dwellings, especially in New England. They are
frequently seen on carriages, and perhaps oftener
still on watch seals. My travelling companion
was asked to explain why these evidences of an
aristocratical feeling were seen among a people so
thoroughly democratic. The substance of his
answer shall be given : •* Though the Americans
do not always venerate their ancestors, for pre-
cisely the same reasons as are acknowledged in
Europe, they are nevertheless descended from the
same sort of progenitors. Those who emigrated
to this hemisphere, brought with them most of
the opinions of the old world. Such of them as
bore coats of arms did not forget the distinction,
and those that you see are the relics of times long
since past. They have not ocen disposed of, for
no other reason that I can discover, than because
it is difficult to find a use for them. Most of the
trinkets are heir-looms ; though many individuals
find a personal convenience in the use of seals
which are appropriate to themselves. There are
others who openly adopt arms for the sake of this
convenience, sometimes rejecting those which
have long been used by their families, simply be-
cause they are not sufficiently exclusive; and
there are certainly some who are willing to creep
under the mantle of gentility at so cheap a rate.
Foreigners, when they see these exhibitions,
and find self-established heralds in the shane of

AKISTOCHATIC tSAGKS DISA PPt A KI N(i. 2l7

seal cutters, kc. in the country, sometimes believe
that wealth is gradually producing a change in
the manners of the people to the prejudice of de-
mocracy. But they fall into an egregious error.
The fact is, that even this innocent, though
perhaps absurd vanity, is getting rapidly into
disuse, together with most of the other distinc-
tive usages of orders in society, that are not
purely connected with character and deportment.
No one, for instance, thinks now of exhibit-
ing the arms on any portion of the dwelling, in
hatchments, or on tomb-stones, though all were
practised openly within thirty years. Liveries
are scarcely so frequent now as formerly, while
coaches, coac\men, and footmen are multiplied
fifty-fold. In short, the whole country, not
only in its government, but in all its habits, is
daily getting to be more purely democratic, in-
stead of making the smallest approaches to the
opposite extreme. I state this merely as a fact
that any well-informed American will corrobo-
rate, leaving you to your own reasoning and in-
ferences."

It is a peculiar feature of American democracy,
and it is one which marks its ancient date and its
entire security, that it is unaccompanied by any
jealousy of aristocracy beyond that which dis-
tinguishes the usual rancour of personal envy.
One may sometimes hear remarks that denote the

\'V ' I I

218 INSTANCES OF SUCCESSION TO OFFICE.

sourness of an unsuccessful rivalry, but the feel-
ing can no where be traced in the conduct of the
nation. The little states of Connecticut and
Rhode Island contain, beyond a doubt, the two
most purely democratic communities in the civi-
lized world. Ir both, the public will is obeyed with
the submission that a despot would exact ; and,
in the latter, it is consulted to a minuteness of
detail that would be inconvenient, if not imprac-
ticable, in a community of more extended interests.
Now, mark one effect of this excessive democracy
which you n^ay not be prepared to expect. No
less than three governors of Connecticut have been
named to me, who, in due progress of time, and at
suitable ages, have been selected to sit in the chair
which their fathers had filled with credit. Many
inferior offices also exist, which, were it not for the
annual decision of the people, might be thought
to have become hereditary in certain families.
Here is proof that the sovereign people can be as
stable in their will, as the will of any other sove-
reign. Of the five presidents who have filled the
chair, since the adoption of the present constitution
in 1789, but one has left a son. That son is now a
candidate for the same high office ; and though
the circumstance, amid a thousand other absur-

* The writer was assured that the office of Secretary of State,
ill Rhode Island, had been in one family for near seventy years. ^

■X- . ■'

SOCIETY OF NEW YORK.

219

dities, is sometimes urged against his election, it is
plain there is not a man in the whole nation who
deems it of the least importance.*

As might be expected, the general society of
New York bears a strong impression of its com-
mercial character. In consequence of the rapid
growth of the city, the number of families that
may be properly classed among those which have
long been distinguished in its history for their
wealth and importance, bears a much smaller
proportion to its entire population than that of
most other places. A great many of the principal
personages were swept away by the Revolution.
Under these constant and progressive changes, as
might be expected, the influence of their manners
is, I think, less perceptible than, for instance, in
Philadelphia. Still, a much larger class of what
in Europe forms the ^lite of society exists here,
than strangers commonly suppose. My letters
first threw me, as a matter of course, among the
mercantile men; and I found that mixture of
manners, information, and character, that distin-
guish the class every where. It was my lot
frequently to occupy a seat at a banquet between
some fine, spirited, intelligent individual, whose
mind and manners had been improved by travel
and education, and, perhaps, another votary of
Plutus, (one hardly dare say of Mercury, in this

* Mr. John Quincy Adams : he was chosen the following winter,
and is now president. ■ . *«

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220

INFLUENCE 01« MEKCllANTS.

stage of the world,) whose ideas were never above
the level of a sordid calculation, and all of whose
calculations were as egotistical as his discourse.
It strikes me that both a higher and a lower order
of men mingle in commerce here, than is seen
elsewhere, if, perhaps, the better sort of English
merchants be excepted. Their intimate relations
on " 'Change" bring them all, more or less, toge-
ther in the saloons ; nor can the associations well
be avoided, until the place shall attain a size, which
must leave every one the perfect master of his own
manner of living. That hour is fast approaching
for New York, and with it, I think, must come a
corresponding change in the marshalling of its
coteries.

When Cadwallader returned from the country,
I fell into a very different circle. His connections
were strictly of New York, and they were alto-
gether among the principal and longest established
families. Here I met with many men of great
leisure and large fortunes, who had imparted to
their children what they had received from their
fathers ; and it would not have been easy, after
making some slight allowances for a trifling tinge
of Dutch customs, to have distinguished between
their society and that portion of the English who
live in great abundance, without falling into the
current of what is called high or fashionable life.
Although many, not only of the best informed,
but of the best bred of the Americans, are mer-

REMAINS OF COLONIAL ARISTOCRACY. 22 L

chants, the tone of manners in this circle was decid-
edly more even and graceful than in that which
strictly belongs to the former. But it is not dif-
ficult to see that society in New York, in conse-
quence of its extraordinary increase, is rather in
a state of effervescence than settled, and, where
that is the case, I presume you will not be sur-
prised to know, that the lees sometimes get nearer
to the surface than is desirable. Nothing is easier
than for a well-behaved man, who is tolerably
recommended, to get admission into the houses
of the larger proportion of those who seek noto-
riety by courting a general intercourse ; but I am
inclined to think that the doors of those who are
secure of their stations are guarded with the cus-
tomary watchfulness. Stili you will always re-
member, that suspicion is less alert than in Europe ;
for where temptations to abuse confidence are so
rare, one is not much disposed to clog the en-
joyments of life by admitting so sullen a guest.
The effect of this general confidence is a less re-
strained and more natural communication.

There is a common accusation against the Ame-
ricans, men and women, of being cold in their
manners. Some carry their distaste of the alleged
defect so far, as to impute it to a want of feeling.
I have even listened to speculations so ingenious,
as to refer it to a peculiarity in the climate — a
reasoning that was thought to be supported by
the well-known imperturbability of the Abori*

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222

COLDNESS OF MANNER.

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gines. Whether the theory be true or false, the
argument that is brought to maintain it is of most
unfortunate application. The tornado itself is
not more furious than the anger of the Indian,
nor is it easy to imagine a conformation of the
human mind that embraces a wider range of emo-
tions, from the fiercest to the most gentle, than
what the original owners of this country possess.
Civilization might multiply the changes of their
humour, but it would scarcely exhibit it in more
decided forms. I confess, however, that even in
Cadwallader I thought, during the first weeks of
our intercourse, something of this restraint of
manner was perceptible. In his countrymen, and
more particularly his countrywomen, the defect
seemed no less apparent. In New England, not-
withstanding their extraordinary kindness in deeds,
there was often an apparent coldness of demeanour
that certainly lessened, though it could not destroy
its effect.*

*'' An instance of this suppressc.' manner occurred while the
author was at New York in the summer of 1825. An English fri-
gate (the Hussar) entered the port, and anchored a short distance
below the town. Her oaptain was the owner of a London-built
wherry, which he kept for his private sport, as his countrymen on
shore are known to keep racers. It seems that some conversation
concerning the model of this boat, and of those of New York, and
perhaps, too, respecting the comparative skill of four London water-
men whom he was said to retain as a sort of grooms, and the re-
nowned Whitehallers, induced him to insert a challenge in the journals,
wherein he threw down the glove, for a trial of speed, to all the raari-

ANECDOTE TO EXEMPLIFY IT.

223

This national trait can neither be likened to,
nor accounted for, ^5y any of those causes which
are supposed to produce the approximating quali-
ties in some of the people of our hemisphere. It

ners or sportsmen of the city. The Whitehallers took up the gage, and
a day was publicly named for the trial. It was quite evident that the
citizens, who are keenly alive to any thing that affects their reputation
on the water, let it be ever so trifling, took great interest in the re-
sult. Thousands of spectators assembled on the battery ; and, to
keep alive the excitiMCni; there were not five Englishmen or Eng-
lish women in the city who did not appcur to back the enterprise
of their countrymen. The distance run (about two miles) was
from the frigate to a boat anchored in the Hudson, and thence ta
another which lay at a short distance from the Castle Garden,
already described. On board of the latter, the judges (who, it is
presumed, were of both nations,) had adopted those delicate symbols
of victory which had so recently been pitted against each other iu
far less friendly encounters, i. e. the national flags. The writer
and his friend, who, notwithstanding his philosophy, felt great
interest in the result, took their stand on the belvidere of the castle,
which commanded a fine view of the whole bay. On their right hand
stood a young American naval officer, and on their left a pretty and
highlyexcited young Englishwoman. The frigate fired a gun, and the
two boats were seen dashing ahead at the signal. One soon took
the lead, and maintained it to the end of the race, beating by near
a quarter of a mile, though the oarsmen came in pulling only with
one hand each. For some time the distance prevented a clear view
of which was likely to be the victor. A report spread on the left
that it was the boat of the frigate. The eyes of the fair English-
woman danced with pleasure, and she murmured her satisfaction
so audibly as to reach the ears of all near her. The writer turned
to see the effect on his right-hand neighbour. He was smiling at
the feeling of the lady, but soon gravely turned his eyes in the di-
rection of the boats. He was asked which was ahead. He answered, .

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224

REASONS FOR THE SAME.

is not the effect of climate, since it exists equally
in 45" and 30^ It is not the phlegm of the Ger-
man, for no one can be more vivacious, frank,
cordial, and communicative than the American,
when you have effected the easy task of breaking
through the barrier of his reserve. It cannot be
the insulated pride of the Spaniard, brooding
under his cloak on the miserable condition of
to-day, or dreaming of the glories of the past ; nor
is it the repulsive hauteur of the Englishman, for

«* The Whitehallers !" and directed the attention to a simple fact to
confirm his opinion. The victors were pulling with so swift Lnd
equal a stroke, as to render their oars (at that distance) impercepti-'
ble, whereas there were moments when the blades of those in the
beaten boat could be distinctly seen. This the young lieutenant
described as a " man-of-war stroke," which, he said, "could never
beat a dead Whitehall-pull, let the rowers come from where they
would." The fact proved that he was right. The English flag was
lowered amid three manful cheers from the goal-boat, which was no
other than the launch of the Hussar. With the exception of a few
boys, the Americans, though secretly much elated, made no answer,
and it was difficult to trace the least change in the coui^tenances of
the spectators. On quitting the battery, the writer and his friend
met a French gentleman of tht:r acquaintance descending the
Broadway to witness the race. He held up both hands, and
shook his head, by the way of condolence. His error was explained.
«* Victors!" he exclaimed, looking around him in ludicrous sur-
prise, " I could have sworn by the gravity of every face I see, that
the Englishmen had beaten you half the distance!" It is no more
than fair to add, that something was said of an accident to the Hus-
sar's boat, of which the writer pretends to know nothing, but of
which he is sure the grave crowd by which he was surrounded was
quite as ignorant as himself. . .. .. :

EFFECT OF RELIGIOUS DOGMAS.

225

no one is more disposed to admit of the perfect
equality of his fellow crectures than the native of
this country. By scne it has been supposed to
be the fruits of the metaphysical, religious dog-
mas and stern discipline that were long taught
and practised in so many of the original colonies.
That the religion of the Puritans and of the
Friends left their impressions, is, I think, beyond
a doubt ; for the very peculiarity of manner to
which we have reference, is to be found, in dif-
ferent sections of the Union, modified by the ab-
sence or prevalence of their self-mortifying doc-
trines. Still, one finds degrees of this same exterior
among the Episcopalians of New York, the Ca-
tholics of Maryland, the merchants of the east,
the great landed proprietors of the middle states,
and the planters of the south. It is rather tem-
pered than destroyed by the division of states, of
religion, or of habits. It is said even to begin to
exhibit itself among the French of Louisiana, who
are already to be distinguished from their kinsmen
in Europe b;' greater gravity of eye and mien. It
is even so contagious, that no foreigner can long
dwell within its influence without contracting
more or less of its exterior. It does not arise
from unavoidable care, since no people have less
reason to brood over the calamities of life. There
is no Cassius-like discontent to lead the minds of
men into plots and treasons ; for, from the time I
entered the country to the present momeni.

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VOL. i.

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226 COLDNESS OF MANNEFIS ACCOUNTED FOR.

amidst the utmost latitude of political discussion,
I have not heard even a whisper against the great
leading principles of the government.*

In despair of ever arriving at the solution of
doubts which so completely baffled all conjecture
and experience, I threw myself on the greater
observation of Cadwallader for the explanation of
a habit which, the more I reflected, only assumed
more of the character of an enigma. His answer
was sufficiently sententious, though, when pressed
upon the subject, he was not unwilling to support
it by reasons that certainly are rather plausible,
if not just. To the question — " To what do you
ascribe the characteristic grave demeanour of your
countrymen ?" the reply was, " To the simplicity
of common sense !" This was startling, and at
first, perhaps, a little offensive ; but you shall have
his reasons in his own words.

" You admit yourself that the peculiarity which
you mention is solely confined to manner. The
host, the friend, the man of business, or the lady
in her drawing-room, who receives you with less
empressement than you have been accustomed to
meet elsewhere, omits no duty or material act of
kindness. While each seems to enter less into
the interests of your existence, not one of them is

* The author will add, nor to the hour of his departure. The
United States of America are, perhaps, the only country in Christen-
dom where political disaffection does not in a greater or less degree
prevail.

COLDNESS OF MANNERS ACCOUNTED FOU. 227

selfishly engaged in the exclusive pursuits of his
own.

" While the Americans have lived in the centre
of the moral world, their distance from Europe,
and their scattered population, have kept them,
as respects association, in comparative retirement.
They have had great leisure for reflection. Even
England, which has so long and so richly supplied us
with food for the mind, labours under a mental dis-
advantage which is not known here. Her artificial
and aged institutions require the prop of concerted
opinions, which, if it be not fatal to change, have
at least acquired an influence that it is thought
dangerous to disturb. In America, no such re-
straint has ever been laid on the human mind,
unless it might be through the ordinary operation
of passing prejudices. But those prejudices have
always been limited in their duration, and have
never possessed the important prerogative of exclu-
sive reverence. Men combated them at will, and
•generally with impunity. Even the peculiar maxims
of the monarchy came to us, across the Atlantic,
weakened by distance and obnoxious to criticism.
They were assailed, shaken, and destroyed.

" Thought is the inevitable fruit of a state
of being where the individual is thus permit-
ted to enjoy the best effects of the highest
civilization, with as little as possible of its disad-
vantages. I should have said thought itself was
the reason of that gravity you observe, did I not

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228 COLDNF.SS OF MANNERS ACCOUNTED FOR.

believe it is more true to ascribe it to the nearest
approximate quality in which that thought is
exhibited. When there is much leisure, and all
the other means to reflect on life, apart from
those temptations which hurry us into its vortex,
the mind is not slow to strip it of its gloss, and to
arrive at truths that lie so near the surface. The
result has been, in America, to establish common
sense as the sovereign guide of the public will.
In the possession of this quality, the nation is
unrivalled. It tempers its religion, its morals, its
politics, and finally, as in the case in question, its
manners. The first is equally without bigotry
or licentiousness ; the second are generally con-
sistent and sound ; the third are purely de-
mocratic without the slightest approach to dis-
order; and the last are. as you see them, less
attractive to you, perhaps, because unusual ; but
more in consonance with common sense than your
own, inasmuch as they fail of an exaggeration
which our reason would condemn. Many nations
excel us in the arts, but none in the truths of hu-
man existence. The former constitute the poetry
of life, and they are desirable so far as they
temper society ; but when they possess it to the
exclusion of still nobler objects, their dominion is
dangerous, and may easily become fatal. Like
all other pursuits in which the imagination predo-
minates, they have a tendency to diminish the
directness with which reason regards every thing
that appertains to our nature.

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COLDNESS OF MANNERS ACCOUNTED FOK. 221}

•* Although there is nothing incompatible between
perfect political freedom and high rational refine-
ment, there is certainly a greater addiction to
factitious complaisance in a despotism than in a
republic. The artificial deference which, in the
former, is exacted by him who rules, descends
through all the gradations of society, until its tone
becomes imparted to an entire nation. I think it
will be found, by referring to Europe, that manners,
though certainly modified by national temperament
and other causes, have become artificial in propor-
tion as the sovereign power has exercised its influ-
ence. Though France, under the old regime, was
not in theory more monarchical than many of the
adjoining countries, the monarch, in fact, filled a
greater space in the public mind. It would be
difficult to find any other nation in which sacri-
fices so heavy, indeed, it may be said, so fatal,
were daily and hourly made to appearances, as
under the reign of Louis XIV. They were only
the more dangerous, inasmuch as the great ad-
vancement of the nation made the most gifted men
auxiliary to the propagation of deception. The
part which Racine with his piety, Boileau with
wit, and even Fontaine with his boasted simplicity,
did not disdain to play, humbler men might well
desire to imitate. The consequences of this fac-
titious tone in manners prevail to the present day
in France, which, notwithstanding her vast im-
provements, has yet a great deal to concede to
the immutable and sacred emnire of truth, before

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230 COLDNESS OF MANNERS ACCOUNTED FOR,

either religion, g^ovemment, or morals, shall reacli
that degree of perfection which each and all may
hope to attain. However agreeable habitual
deference to forms may become, the pleasure is
bought too dearly, when a just knowledge of our-
selves, deceptive views of life, or even of sacred li-
berty itself, may be the price. I should cite America
as furnishing the very reverse of this proposition.
Here, without pretending to any infallibility of
judgment, all matters are mooted with the most
fearless indifference of the consequences. In the
tossings and agitations of the public opinion, the
fine and precious grains of truth gradually get win-
nowed from the chaff of empiricism and interest-
edness, and, to pursue the figure, literally become
the mental aliment of the nation. After the mind
is thoroughly imbued with healthful moral truths,
it admits the blandishments and exaggerations of
conventional politeness with great distrust, and
not unfrequently with distaste. When the prin-
ciple is pushed into extremes, men become Trap-
pists, and Puritans, and Quakers. Now, in this
respect, every American, taken of course with the
necessary allowances, is, more or less, a Puritan.
He will not tell you he is enchanted to see you,
when, in truth, he is perfectly indifferent to the
matter ; his thoughts are too direct for so gross a
deception. Although he may not literally mean
what he says, he means something much nearer
to it than one meets with in what is called good
society any where else.

COLDNESS OF MANNERS ACCOLNTEU FOR. 231

** The native of New England has certainly more
of this peculiar exterior than the native of any other
part of our country. This difference is unques-
tionably a result of the manners of the Puritans.
But you are right in believing that it is, more or
less, to be seen in the air of most Americans ;
perhaps of all, with the exception of those who
have lived from infancy in what is called the most
polished, which of itself implies the most artifi-
cial circles.

" A great deal of this exterior is also hereditary.
The Englishman is the man of the coldest aspect
in Europe, when you compare his ordinary tem-
perament with his deportment. Has not the Eng-
glishman a sounder view of life than any other
man in your hemisphere ? If not, he has been
singularly fortunate in preceding all his com-
petitors in the enjoyment of its most material ad-
vantages.

" France has been proverbial for grace of manner.
But the manners of France are undergoing a sensi-
ble change, under the influence of the new order
of things. Her gentlemen are becoming grave as
they become thoughtful. Any one may observe,
in passing through French society, the difference
between the two schools. I confess that my taste
is for the modern. I have been so much accus-
tomed to the simplicity of American manners, as
to find something that is congenial in the well-bred
English, that is wanting in the well-bred French
deportment, and precisely for the reason that it is

.'>!'

232 COLDNESS OF MANNERS ACCOUNTED FOR.

still a little more natural. So far as this distinc-
tion goes, I honestly believe the Englishman has
the advantage. But, with honourable exceptions,
it will not do to push English complaisance too far.
Perhaps, if we attempt a comparison, I shall be
better understood.

■ "The Englishman and the American have, in a
grjat degree, a common mnnner. I do not now
speak of the gentlemen of the two countries, for
muclx intercourse is rapidly assimilating the class
every where, but of the deportment of the two en-
tire nations. You will find both cold. There is
certainly no great difference in the men, though
more may be observed in the women. The Eng-
lish say that our women are much too cold, and we
say that theirs are artificial without always being
graceful. Of course, I speak of the mass, and not
of exceptions, in either case. Our women are, as
you see, eminently feminine, in air, conversation,
and feeling, and they are also eminently natural.
You may find them cold, for, to be honest, they
find you a little artificial ; but, with their country-
men, they are frank, sincere, unreserved and
natural, while I challenge the world to produce
finer instances of genuine, shrinking delicacy, or
of greater feminine propriety.

" The French gentleman has certainly one ad-
vantage over his island neighbour. He is uni-
formly polite ; his conventional habits having
apparently gotten the better of all his native
humours. You are sure, so far as manner is con-

W l:i\

COLDNESS OF MANNERS ACCOUNTED FOR. 233

cerned, of finding him to-morrow as you left him
to-day. There may be some question on this
point with the Enghshman, but none with the
American. Common-sense is quite as equal
as good breeding. The American gentleman is
less graceful than the Frenchman, and may be
even less conventional in his air than the English-
man, but he is commonly gravely considerate of
the feelings. Were he disposed to abuse his situ-
ation, his countrymen would not tolerate his airs.
I have already told you that humanity is a distinc-
tive feature of American intercourse. The men
of secondary manners may be more subdued in
air than those of Europe, but it is altogether con-
fined to appearance. No man is kinder in all his
feelings or habits.*

*' But this digression is leading me from what
you call the peculiar coldness of the American
manner. The word is not well chosen, since cold-
ness implies a want of feeling, and want of feehng

* The writer landed in England, on his return to Europe,
Curiosity led him to the gallery of the House of Commons. The
member on the floor was a stranger to him. A well dressed man
stood at his elbow, and he ventured to ask him if he knew who was
speaking. " No," was the answer, and it was given with an eleva-
tion and a peculiar senteatiousness of voice which cannot be com-
mitted to paper. The writer was induced to repeat the experiment,
simply as an experiment, four times, and always with the same suc-
cess, except that in the last instance he obtained the name, but in
a note pitched in the same key. He is bold co say, that the coldest
looking man in America would have answered in a tone of more
** civilization.^'

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234 COLDNESS OF MANNERS ACCOUNTED FOR.

cannot exist where every concession is made to
humanity, except in words and looks. Mr. Hodgf
son says, he does not think the habit of which he
complains is to be seen in the better classes of
the men, though he appears, unwillingly enougii
too, to admit that the females are not quite so
free from the charge. Mr. Hodgson, it will be
remembered, was a bachelor, and he ought to
have known that this is a class of men far less in
demand in America than in England. Without
appearing to make the smallest allowance for the
momentary warmth that is always excited by
countrymen meeting in a foreign land, he puts
the seeming cordiality of the wives of certain
English soldiers whom he met at Niagara, in
strong contrast with the cold demeanour of the
wives of the thousands of Americans whom he had
just left. This gentleman does not pretend that
there was actually more of feeling in the one case
than in the other ; he seems perfectly willing to
ascribe the difference to its true cause, viz., a
simple difference in manner. Just to this extent
I admit the justice of his remark, and I have
endeavoured to give you some reasons for its
existence. One would not gather from the book
of Mr. Hodgson, rational and candid as it is, that
the author had ever seen many countries besides
his own ; if he has, he must be aware that the air
and manner of a French paysanne would still be
more likely to flatter his self-complacency than
the cordiality of the soldiers' wives. It would not

COLDNESS OF MANNERS ACCOUNTED FOR. 235

be difficult for you and me to quote still stronger
instances of the extent to which this manner is
carried among different people, and people, too,
who have no very extraordinary reputation either
for morals or civilization.

" I think it will be found, too, on reflection,
that the subdued manner (the word is more just
than cold) of the Americans, is more owing to the
simple and common sense habit they have of
viewing things, than even to rusticity, or indeed to
any other cause. It cannot be the former, since
it is to be traced among those who have passed
their lives in the most polished intercourse in the
cities no less than in the country, and amid ele-
gance as well as rural simplicity. While we have
very few certainly who devote their leisure to the
exclusive cultivation of the mere refinements of
life, there is perhaps a smaller degree of rustic
awkwardness in the country than can be found
among an equal number of the inhabitants of any
other nation. The very quality which keeps
down the superfluous courtesy of the upper, has
an agency in elevating the manners of the lower
classes, who, considering their situations, are at
all times surprisingly self-possessed and at their
ease. A far more just objection to the social
usages of the Americans, might be discovered in
the rough and hardy manner in which they sup-
port their opinions, than in this absence of assumed
cordiality. The latter, though it may become

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236 COLDNESS OF MANNERS ACCOUNTED FOR.

necessary by indulgence, can, after all, only im-
pose upon a novice, whereas the former may easily
become offensive, without in the slightest degree
advancing what they urge. But it is so difficult,
and even so dangerous, to say how far courtesy
shall infringe on truth, that one can tolerate a
little inconvenience to favour the latter ; and de-
pend on it, though the practice is often exces-
sively unpleasant in the individual (and much
oftener here than in Europe), it is a sound,
healthful, national failing, that purchases great
good at a small price."

I shall make no comments on the opinions of
my friend. There is, however, one thing that may
be said on the subject which will go to prove the
justice of his theory. There is, at least, nothing
conventional in this coldness of manner of his
countrymen. Men do not admit it as a part of
their gentility ; but it has altogether the air of
being either the effect of their national tempera-
ment, or, as Cadwallader would prove, of habits
that proceed from a reflection so general and uni-
form, as to have perfectly acquired the simplicity
and force of nature. I think also that he has not
laid sufficient stress on the effect of republican
institutions and the want of a court ; but one cannot
expect so thorough a democrat to speak with much
reverence of the latter. He has explained that,
by the prevalence of " common sense," he does
not mean that every man in America is wise enough

FEELING FOR LA FAYETTE.

237

to discriminate between the substance and the
shadow of things, but that so many are as to have
given a tone to the general deportment of the
whole : a case that may very well exist in a read-
ing and instructed nation.

TO THE COUNT JULES DE BETHIZY.

8fc. Sfc.

New York, >

From the hour that we landed in America, to
the present moment, the voices of men, the jour-
nals, and the public bodies, have been occupied in
celebrating the work of national gratitude. The
visit of La Fayette, his ancient services, his ap-
pearance, his sayings, his tact, his recollection of,
and meeting with veterans whom he had known
under other and more adverse circumstances, are
the constant themes of press and tongue. The
universal sentiment, and the various scenes to
which it has given birth, have not failed to elicit
many sparks of that sort of feeling which is credit-
able to human nature, since it proves that man,
with all his selfishness and depravity, is the repo-
sitory of a vast deal that is generous and noble.
Two or three little anecdotes have wome to my
ears that may serve to amuse, if not to edify you.

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238

ANECDOTE.

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One of the familiar, and certainly not the least
touching manners, chosen by the Americans, to
evince their attachment to La Fayette, who has
been well termed the " nation's guest,'* is by
making offerings of the labours of their own hands,
in the shape of a thousand trifling articles that
may affect his personal comfort, or at least ma-
nifest their zeal in its behalf. Among others,
it seems that a hatter had even gone so far as to
send a hat, or hats, to France, as his portion
of these little contributions. This kindness was
remembered, and a short time after their arrival,
M. George La Fayette went to the shop of the
individual, and ordered a supply for himself. The
hat was furnished as a matter of course, with the
directness and simplicity that characterise these
people. The next thing was to demand the bill ;
for you will readily understand that the motive of
M. La Fayette, was to patronize a tradesman who
had been so attentive to his father. " I was paid
forty years ago for all the hats I can make for
any of the family of La Fayette," was the an-
swer.

A gentleman, who, from former acquaintance
and his situation in life, is much around the person
of the General, has related another instance of
the deep and nearly filial interest that is taken in
Ins comfort, by all classes of the citizens. It is
well known that in common with so many others,
the fortune of La Fayetts suffered by the changes

ANECDOTE.

239

in France, no less than by his own sacrifices. This
circumstance had, as usual, been exaggerated, until
an impression has obtained among many of the
less informed, that he is actually subjected to
personal privations. Their * guest' appeared among
the Americans simply clad, in a coat of black,
which was not of a particulary fine fabric, and
with other habiliments equally plain. Now, it so
happens, that the American who is the least above
the labouring classes, habitually wears a finer cloth
than the corresponding classes even in England,
with perhaps an exception in favour of the very
highest in the latter country. This peculiarity in
the attire of La Fayette, struck the eye of a
mechanic, who did not fail to ascribe it to a want
of means. He sought an opportunity to confer

with Colonel , from whose mouth I have

the anecdote, and after a little embarrassment and
circumlocution, explained his object. " I see

Colonel , that our friend has not as good a

coat as he ought to wear, and I think he should be
the best dressed man in America. You know
very well that I am nothing but a plain mechanic,
and that I should not know what to say to a man
like La Fayette in such a case as this ; but you
are a gentleman, and can smooth the thing over as
it should be, and 1*11 thank you just to get him a
suit of the best, in any way you please, and then
the bill can be given to me, and nothing further
shall ever be said of the matter."

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240 LA FAYETTE RETURNS FROM BOSTON.

7]Vf.

I might fill a volume with similar instances of
attachment and affection, with addresses, proces-
sions and ceremonies, which have occurred since
the reception of the veteran Frenchman, amongst
these usually quiet and rarely excited people. A
brief description of a fete at which I was present,
and which is, in some measure, connected with my
own mov^ ment* must, however, suffice for the
present. \ ;^;'>r describe it both for its peculiar
nature, and . u ;e it may serve to give a general
idea of the taste, mdiiiers, and appearance of the
Americans, in similar scenes.

At the return of La Fayette from his excursion
to Boston, the citizens of New York determined to
entertain him in their collective capacity. He had
been feasted by corporate bodies innumerable ; but
this ball was to oe given by subscription, and
to include as many of all the different classes of
society, as could well assemble in the place chosen
for its celebration. That spot was the abandoned
fortress already mentioned by the name of the
Castle Garden, as the place where he landed.
The castle, you will remember, stands on an artifi-
cial island, a few hundred feet from the promenade,
that is called the Battery. The work itself is a
building of dark red freestone, almost circular, and
I should think near two hundred feet in diameter.
Most of this space is occupied by the area in the
centre, the work itself being little more than a
covered battery, which by subsequent changes has

A R It .\\(J VM F.STS roU Til K F F.TK.

241

beon transformed into alcoves, and has a fine ter-
race, or rather belvidere, around the whole of its
summit. A tall spar was raised in the centre of the
area, and a vast awning was constructed of the
sails of a ship of the line, to cover the whole. The
interior side of this awning was concealed by flags,
arranged in such a manner as to give a soft, airy
finish to the wide vault, and a roof that inclined
inwards from the ramparts for a little distance was
covered with gradins, like the seats of an amphi-
theatre. Thus the interior fiiight be id to be
divided into several parts. There wa* ih ^reat
salle, or the area of the garden; th > iimense,
low, vaulted, circular corridor, withMi \ e work ;
the gradins, a little below the b idsre, sup-
ported by pillars, and the belvidere itself, all
beneath the awning. In addition to these, on the
side of the castle next the city, is a range of
apartments, some of which have been added since
the new destination of the building, and are on a
scale suited to its present uses.

Cadwallader procured tickets for us both, and
at ten o'clock we proceeded to the centre of attrac-
tion. Two of the principal streets of the city
terminate near each other directly in face of the
castle garden. The carriages entered the battery
(the promenade) by one, and left it by the other.
Temporary fences were erected to keep the coach-
men in the line after they had arrived on the mall.
I can say with truth, that I never knew a company

VOL. I. B

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242 ORDKR IN SOCIKTY WITHOUT PKKCEDF.NC Y.

set down and taken up with more facility and
order. You will recollect there were six thousand
guests, a number that is rarely exceeded at any
European entertainment. The quiet which pr^.
vailed, is a suflBcient proof that established orders
in society are not at all necessary, at least, for the
tranquillity of its ordinary intercourse. There
were no gensd'armes, though I was told some
police officers were present, and yet I saw no
attempts to break the line, or any other instances
of those impertinences, with which coachmen with
us are apt to emulate what they conceive to be
the importance of their masters. Indeed, all my
experience goes to show, that the simplest way
of destroying the bickerings and heart-burnings of
precedency and rank, is to destroy their usages
altogether. No doubt human nature is just as
active among these republicans, as it is in England
or in Germany, and that A. secretly envies or
derides the claims of B. ; but it would be perfectly
absurd in either of the parties to permit a public
exposure of their pretensions, since the world
would be very apt to tell them both, the distinc-
tion you enjoy is only by sufferance, and dignified
and quiet behaviour is one requisite for its posses-
sion at all. Thus, you see, however rancorous
may be the rivalry, third parties are at all events
spared the exhibition of its folly. But this truth
is abundantly proved in the saloons of your own
fascinating metropolis, where one is daily elbowed

TIIF. CASTLK (lARUEN FKTK.

243

by peers, without being the least conscious of the
honours he is receiving, and where society is kept
so perfectly and so admirably distinct from Go-
vernment.

We alighted at the bridge which connects the
island to the battery. By the aid of awnings,
carpets, and other accessories, this passage, over
which armed heels had so often trod, and lumber-
ing wheels rumbled with their groaning loads of
artillery, was converted into a long, and prettily
decorated gallery. The light was judiciously kept
down, so as to give the entrance a subdued and
pleasing, and a strikingly romantic effect. You
caught, id passing, glimpses of the water, and
heard its quiet washing in dull contrast to the
strains of distant music. Steam boats were land-
ing the guests by hundreds, on the narrow terrace
which surrounds the base of the castle, and a
never ceasing current of gaily dressed and grace-
ful beings were gliding from out the darkness on
either hand, or along the gallery, towards a flood
of light which was shed through the massive
frowning portal of the fortress, as a sort of beacon
to direct our footsteps. Such a sight was not
likely to fail of its effect on one as weakly consti-
tuted as myself, dear Jules, and abandoning the
pensive and deliberative step with which I had
loitered to contemplate the peculiar and pleasing
approach to the scene, I hastened on to plunge at
once into its gayest vortex. I know not whether

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244

l)KsrUll»TI()\ OF THE SALLF.

it was owing to the contrast between the judicious,,
gloom of the romantic gallery and the brilliant salle,
to the magnitude of that salle, or to the fact that with
European complaisance I had expected no very
imposing exhibition of taste and splendour among
these people, but, certain is it, that, though far from
unaccustomed, as you well know, to ft^tes and spec-
tacles, I never entered one whose coup (Cml pro-
duced an effect like this. As we hurried towards
the gate in hundreds, (for two or three steam boats
had just discharged their living cargoes), I had
been seized with a very natural apprehension, that
the whole was to terminate in one of those well
dressed throngs in which it would be impossible
to see, hear, converse, dance, or, in short, to be
alive to any other sensations than those of exces-
sive heat, ctmuiy and, perhaps, a head-ache. But
though so many poured along the approaches, like
water gushing through some narrow passage, the
rush, the crowd, and the inconvenience ceased as
you entered the principal space, like the tumult of
that element subsiding as it emerges into a broad
basin. There were, probably, five thousand per-
sons in the salle when we entered, and yet there
was abundant room for all the usual pursuits of
such an assembly. Some thirty, or forty, or fifty,
sets of quadrilles were in graceful motion, hun-
dreds were promenading around the dancers, and,
literally, thousands were hanging over them on
the belvidere and among the gradins, looking

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1MMKNSK ASSKMinV. AIM'KA H A NHl., K IC. 245

down with the complacency of those benignant
beings to whom poets give an habitation in the
clouds.

It is, perhaps, not saying much for the self-
possession of two travellers who had passed
through so many similar scenes, but it is, never-
theless, strictly true, that both Cadvvallader and
myself, instead of passing on with suitable defer-
ence to the rest of the guests, came to a dead halt
on the threshold of this scene, and stood, near a
minute, gazing around us and upwards, with won-
der. We had, however, the consolation to dis-
cover that we were not alone in our underbred
surprise, for a hundred pretty exclamations that
escaped prettier lips, and the immense pressure
of the crowd at the spot where our steps had been
arrested, apprised us that the sensation was com-
mon to all. Escaping from this throng, we had
leisure to study the details which had produced
so imposing a tout-ensemble.

An immense cloud of flags, composed of all the
colours of the rainbow intermingled, was waving
gently in the upper air, shadowing the area at an
elevation of not less than seventy feet. The
enoi Tious spar which supported this canopy of
ensigns had been converted into the shaft of an
immense lustre, whose several parts were com-
posed of entire chandeliers. From ^ these were
streaming the floods of noon-day light whi'^H gave
to the centre of the salle its extraordina; y bril-

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246 LA FAYETTK. HIS ENTRANCE AND RECEPTION,

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Iff .;!.('*,:•

liancy, while countless shaded and coloured lamps
shed a fainter and softer glow on those parts
of the scene which taste and contrast required
to be kept down. Directly in front of the en-
trance was a double flight of steps (one of half a
dozen which led to the gradins and the belvidere).
Beneath this double flight, a marquee of the dimen-
sions of a small chamber had been arranged for the
particular reception of the guest. It was gaily
decorated ; containing a supper table, sofas, a
chandelier, and, in short, all the garniture of a
separate room. The curtains were withdrawn in
such a manner, that any who chose might examine
its interior. Opposite to this again, and directly
over the portal, was the orchestra, appended to
the side of the building which contained the eating
apartments, and the ordinary dwelling of the place.
Shortly after we had entered, La Fayette ar-
rived. The music changed to a national air, the
gay sets dissolved as by a charm, and the dancers
wiio had been dispersed over the floor of the salle
formed a lane, whose sides were composed of
masses that might have contained two thousand
eager faces each. Through this gay multitude
the old man slowly passed, giving and receiving
the most cordial and affectionate salutations at
every step. I had not seen him sincp his depar-
ture for the east. But though the freshness of his
reception was past, his presence bad lost none of
tis influence. To me he appeared some venerable

NATURE OF THE COMPANY.

247

and much respected head of a vast family, who
had come to pass an hour amid their innocent and
gay revels. He was literally like a father among
his children.

The assemblage was composed of every class
in the country, with the exception of those per-
haps who are compelled to seek their livelihood
by positive bodily labour. Still there was no
awkwardness apparent, no presumption on the
part of the one, nor any arrogance on that of
others. All passed off simply, harmoniously, and
with the utmost seeming enjoyment.

My friend, who is very universally known, was
saluted at every step by some fair one, or some
man, who, to the eye at least, had the port and
bearing of a gentleman. " Who is that V* I asked
him, after he had paused an instant to speak to a
young couple who were promenading the room

together. ** That is young and his bride.

He has recently returned from his travels, to take
possession of a fine estate which has descended to
him from the old Dutch patricians of our state,
and to marry that sweet creature on his arm, who
has had power enough to retain her influence after
his tour through Europe, and who, by-the-bye, is a
distant cousin of my own/' " And that?" I conti-
nued. " A city politician," returned Cadwallader,
smiling. "He is ambitious of ruling his ward,
though a man of family, fortune, and education ;
and he to whom he has just spoken is a brazier,

•i,

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248

ALL CLASSES MET TOGETilElL

and is his rival, and often too with success. This
grave looking man in black is a state politician ;
and he who is lounging with those ladies yonder,
is one of the meridian of Washington. They are
all connected, and act in concert, and yet each
keeps his proper sphere as accurately as the
planets. Those half dozen fashionable looking
young men are the sons of gentlemen, and he who
speaks to them in passing is the son of a me-
chanic who is in their employ. They are probably
brother officers in some militia regiment.'' " And
he to whom you have just spoken ?" " That is
my hatter, and a very good one he is too. Now
that man, in common, no more expects to associate
with me, or to mingle in ray ordinary recreations,
than I should to sit at the table of the king of
France ; and yet he is sensible, discreet, and in
many things well informed. Such a man would
neither overlook an unnecessary slight, nor would
he be apt to presume beyond the mark between
us which his own good sense will be sure to pre-
scribe. He knows our habits are different, and he
feels that 1 have the same right to enjoy mine, that
he has to possess his own. You see we are very
good friends, and yet this is probably the first
time we ever met in the same company."

In this manner we passed through the crowd,
until we had gained the terrace. Here we paused,
to take a more deliberate view of what I will not
term an assemblage, for its adjuncts and peculiar
features strictly entitle it to be called a prospect.

ill:

ARKA OF THE CASTLP:, BAY, AND SCENE. 249

The vast extent of the salle lent an air of magic
to the whole scene. Slight, delicate beings* seemed
to be floating beneath us at a distance that re-
duced their forms to the imaginary size of fairies ;
while the low, softened music aided in the decep-
tion. I never witnessed a similar effect at any
other fete. Even the glimpses that were here
and there caught of the gloomy recesses, in which
artillery had formerly frowned, assisted in lending
the spectacle a character of its own. The side cur-
tains of the canopy were raised for the admission
of air, and one had only to turn his eyes from the
dazzling, fairy scene within, to look out upon the
broad, placid, star-lit bay, which washed the foot
of the fortress. I lingered on this spot near an
hour, experiencing an unsocial delight that may
seem to savour of the humour of our fraternity,
especially when one remembers the numberless
temptations to descend which were flitting like
beings of the air before my eyes. But a crowd
of sensations and reflections oppressed me.

Again and again I asked myself the question, if
what I saw were true, and if I really were stand-
ing on the continent of Columbus. Could those
fair, graceful creatures be the daughters and wives
of the mechanics and tradesmen of a provincial
town in North America ! Perhaps, dear B^thizy, it
was assailing me in my weakest part ; but I do

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* The delicacy of the American women is rather peculiar. It
struck the writer that the females in common were under the sire
of middle Europe, and the men rather over.

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Kl;i;!;'!

250 REFLECTIONS. A BACHELOR*S CONFF.IiolONS.

not re^Aember, before or since, ever to hav o been
so alive to the injustice of our supeiticial hau
vague notions of this country, as v^rhiie I stood
gazing down on some two or three thousand of its
daughters, who were not only attending, but
actually adorning such a scene as this. Most of
them certainly would have been abashed, perhaps
gauche, if transported into one of our highly artifi-
cial coteries ; but ' Ueve me, the most laboured re-
finement of Eur' fv might have learned, in this
identical, motley, xepublican assemblage, that
there is a secret charm in nature, which it may be
sometimes dangerous to attempt to supersede.
It has always appeared to me, that manner in a
woman bears a strict analogy to dress. A degree
of simple, appropriate embellishment serves alike
to adorn the graces of person and of demeanour ;
but the moment a certain line is passed in either^
the individual becomes auxiliary to the addition,
instead of the addition lerniing, as it should, a
grace to the individuai, 1. is very possible,
that, if one woman wears diamonds, another must
do the same thing, until a saloon shall be filled
with the contents of a jeweller's shop; but, after
all, this is rather a contest between bright stones
than bright eyes. What man has not looked a
thousand times, even at beauty, with indifference,
wh*3n it has been smothered by such an unnatural
alliance ; but what man has ever met beauty in its
i,\atiye gittractio is, without feeling her power in-

DEP0RTM£NT OF AMERICAN FEMALES

251

fluencing his inmost soul. I rpcuk wi:h no di^-r
sembled CTperience when I answer — None !

I think the females of the secondary classes in
this country dress more, and those of the upper,
less, than the corresponding castes in Europe.
The Americans are not an economical people, in
one sense, though instances of dissolute prodi-
gality are exceedingly rare among them. A
young woman of the middling classes, for in-
stance, seldom gives much of her thoughts
towards the accumulation of a little dowry ; for
the question of what a wife will bri? ig to the com-
mon stock is agitated much less frequently here
than in countries more sophisticated. My com-
panion assures me it is almost unprecedented for
a lover to venture on any inquiries concerning
the fortune of his fair one, even in any class.
Those equivocal admirers, who find Cupid none
the less attractive fur having his dart gilded, are
obliged to make their demonstrations with
singular art and caution, for an American lady
would be very apt to distrust the affection that
saw her charms through the medium -f an estate,
Indeed he mentioned one or two mstances in
which the gentlemen had endeavoured to stipulate
in advance for the dowries of their brides, and
which had not only created a great deal of scandal
in the coteries, but which had invariably been the
means of defeating the matches ; the father, or the
daughter, finding, in each case, something par^-

^'^vi

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252

DlSINTEIihSTEDNESS OF MARRIAGES.

ticularly offensive in the proposition. A lady of
reputed fortune is a little more certain, of matri-
mony than her less lucky rival, though popu-
lar opinion must be the gage of her possessions
until the lover can claim a husband's rights ;
unless indeed the amorous swain should possess,
as sometimes happens, secret and more authentic
sources of information. From all that I can learn,
nothing is more common, however, than for young
men of great expectations to connect themselves
with females, commonly of their own condition
in life, who are pennyless ; or, on the other
hand, for ladies to give their persons with one or
two hundred thousand dollars, to men, who have
nothing better to recommend them than educa-
tion and morals. But this is digressing from my
immediate subject.

The facility with which the fabrics of every
country in the world are obtained, the absence of
care on the subject of the future, and the in-
herent elevation of character which is a natural
consequence of education, and a consciousness of
equal rijjhts, cause all the secondary classes of
this country to assume more of the exterior of the
higher, *' i)3n it is common to see with us. The
excf ptiofts iMUst be sought among the very poorest
and most depressed members of the community.
The men, who are no where so apt at imitation as
the othei sex, are commonly content with gar-
ments that snail denote the comfort and ease

COSTUMK OK Tllf. LAUOl'RING CLASSES. 253

of their several conditions in life, but the females are
remarkable for a more aspiring ambition. Even in
the country, though rusticity and a more awkwarii
exterior were as usual to be seen, I looked in vain
for those marked and peculiar characteristics of
dress and air, that we meet in every part of Europe.
In but one instance do I remember to have seen
any number either of men or women, whose
habiliments conveyed an ideaof provincial costume.
The exception was among the inhabitants of
a little Dutch village, in plain view of this
city, who are said to retain no small portion of
the prejudices and ignorance of the seventeenth
century, and whom the merry author of the bur-
lesque history of New York* accuses of believing
they are still subject to the power of the United
Provinces. As respects the whole of New Eng-
land, I saw some attempt at imitating the fashion
of the day, in even the humblest individual,
though the essay was frequently made on a
material no more promising than the homely pro-
duct of a household manufacture. In the towns,
the efforts were, of course, far more successful,
and I should cite the union of individuality of air
with conformance to custom as a distinguishing-
feature of the women of the lower classes here.
You will understand me better if I venture on
that dangerous experiment, a comparison. A
grisette of Paris, for instance, has a particularly

* Washington Irving.

254

THE ATTIRE OF FEMALES.

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sfnart and conventional air, though her attire is as
different as possible from that of an eleffante,
But the carriage, the demeanour, and the expres-
sions of one Parisian grisette is as much like those
of another as well can be. Now the fashion of the
attire, and not unfrequently the material of the
dfess of an American girl of a similar class, differs
from that of the lady only in quality, and perhaps
a little in the air in which it is worn. As you
ascend in the scale of society, the distinctions,
always excepting those delicate shades which can
only be acquired by constant association in the
best company, become less obvious, until it
requires the tact of breeding to trace them at all.
As I stood regarding the mixed assembly before
ttie, I had the best possible illustration of the
truth of what I will not call the levelling, for
elevating is a far better word, effects of the
s*«te of society, which has been engendered by
tho institutions and the great abundance of this
counti'y* Of some three thousand females
present, not a si;tth of the whole number, per-
haps, belonged to those classes that, in Europe,
afe thought to have any claims to compose the
Mite of society. And yet so far as air, attire,
grdCe, or even deportment, were concerned,
it ittust have been a sickly and narrow taste
indeed that could have taken exceptions.
Although so far removed from what we are ac-
customed to consider the world, the Americans,

MANNERS OF THE WOMEN.

255

in general, have far less of what is called, in
English, the manner of the 'shop* about them,
than their kinsmen of England. These peculiar
features are getting every day less striking every
where ; but Cadwallader tells me they never ex-
isted in America at all. Few men are so com-
pletely limited to one profession, or trade, as not to
possess a great many just and accurate ideas on
other subjects ; and though it may be a conse-
quence that excellence is more rare in particular
pursuits, it is certain that, in manner and in
general intelligence, the nation is greatly a gainer.
The effect of this elevation of character (I persist
in the term) was abundantly conspicuous at the
castle garden fete. Both men and women de-
ported themselves, and to all appearances looked
quite as well as a far more select reunion in
Europe. The distinguishing feature of American
female manners is nature. The fair creatures are
extremely graceful if left to exhibit their blandigh-
ments in their own way ; but it is very evident,
that a highly artificial manner in those with
whom they associate* produces a blighting influ-
ence on the ease of even the most polished among
them. They appear to me to shrink sensitively
from professions and an exaggeration that form
no part of their own politeness; and betweefi
ourselves, if they are wise, they will retain the
unequalled advantage they now possess in carry-
ing refinement no further than it can be supported

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by simplicity and truth. Tlicy arc decidedly
handsome : a union of beauty in feature and form,
being, I think, more common than in any part of
Europe north of the Adriatic. In general they arc
delicate ; a certain feminine air, tone of voice,
size and grace being remarkably frequent. In
the northern, eastern and middle states, which
contain much more than half the whole popula-
tion of the country, the women are fair ; though
brunettes are not unfrequent, and just as blondes
are admired in France, they are much esteemed
here, especially, as is often the case, if the hair and
eyes happen to correspond. Indeed it is difficult
to imagine any creature more attractive than an
American beauty between the ages of fifteen and
eighteen. There is something in the bloom,
delicacy and innocence of one of these young
things, that reminds you of the conceptions which
poets and painters have taken of the angels. I
think delicacy of air and appearance at that
age, though perhaps scarcely more enchanting than
what one sees in England, is even more common
here than in the mother country, especially when
it is recollected how many more faces necessarily
pass before the eye in a given time in the latter
nation than in this. It is often said that the
women of this climate fade earlier than in the
northern countries of Europe, and I confess I was,
at first, inclined to believe the opinion true. That
it is not true to the extent that is commonly sup-

r, A K L V F A 1 ) I \ CJ ( ) F T 1 1 1-, WO M K \ .

257

posed, I am, however, convinced by the reasoning
of Cadwallader, if indeed it be true at all. Per-
haps a great majority of the females marry before
the age of twenty, and it is not an uncommon
thing to see them mothers at sixteen, seventeen,
or eijT^hteen. Almost everv American^ int her
nurses her own infant. It is far more common to
find them mothers of eight, or of ten children, at
fifty, than mothers of two or three. Now the
human form is not completely developed in the
northern moiety of this union, earlier than in
France, or in England. These early marriages,
which are the fruits of abundance, have an
obvious tendency to impair the powers of the
female, and to produce a premature decay. Tn
addition to this cause, which is far more general
than you may be disposed to believe, there is
something in the customs of the country which
may have a tendency, not only to assist the
ravages of time, but to prevent the desire to con-
ceal them. There is no doubt that the animal, as
well as the moral man, is far less artificial here
than in Europe. There is thought to be some-
thing deceptive in the use of the ordinary means
of aiding nature, which ofi'ends the simple manners
of the nation. Even so common an ornament as
rouge is denied, and no woman dares confess that
she uses it. There is something so particularly
soft and delicate in the colour of the young females
one sees in the streets here, that at first I was

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258

NOT SO GEN'KHAL AS BELIKVKI).

inclined to give them credit for the art with which
they applied the tints ; but Cadwallader gravely
assured me I was wrong. He had no doubt that
certain individuals did, in secret, adopt the use of
rouge; but within the whole circuit of his
acquaintance he could not name one whom he
even suspected of the practice. Indeed, several
gentlemen have gone so far as to assure me that
when a woman rouged, it is considered in this
country, as prima facie testimony that her charac-
ter is frail. It should also be remembered, that
when an American girl marries, she no longer
entertains the desire to interest any but her hus-
band. There is perhaps something in the security
of matrimony that is not very propitious to female
blandishments, and one ought to express no sur-
prise that the wife who is content with the affec-
tions of her husband, should grow a little indif-
ferent to the admiration of the rest of the world.
One rarely sees married women foremost in the
gay scenes. They attend, as observant and influ-
encing members of society, but not as the princi-
pal actors. It is thought that the amusements of
the world are more appropriate to the young, who
are neither burthened nor sobered with matrimonial
duties, and who possess an inherent right to look
about them in the morning of life in quest of the
partner who is to be their companion to its close.
And yet I could name, among my acquaintances
here, a dozen of the youngest-looking mothers of

COMMUNICATION BETWEKN TIIK U NM AIlllI ED. 259

large and grown-up families that I remember ever
to have seen.

The freedom of intercourse which is admitted
between the young of the two sexes in America,
and which undeniably is admitted with impunity,
is to hie, who have so long been kept sighing in
the distance, perfectly amazing. I have met with
self-sufficient critics from our side of the Atlantic,
who believe, or affect to believe, that this in-
tercourse cannot always be so innocent as is pre-
tended. When questioned as to the grounds of
their doubts, they have uniformly been founded
on the impression that what could not exist with
impunity with us, cannot exist with impunity
here. They might just as well pretend, in oppo-
sition to the known fact, that a republican form of
government cannot exist in America, because it
could not well exist in Turkey as the Ottoman
empire is now constituted. That the confidence
of parents is sometimes abused in America, is
probably just as true as it is that their watchful-
ness is sometimes deceived in Europe ; but the
intelligence, the high spirit, and the sensitiveness
of the American (who must necessarily be a party
to any transgressions of the sort) on the subject of
female reputation, is in itself sufficient proof that
the custom is attended with no general incon-
venience. The readiness of the American gentle-
man to appeal to arms in defence of his wounded
pride is too -well known to be disputed. The

s 2

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la^.-'^s;

260 RARELY ABUSED, AND REASONS WHY NOT.

It i

duels of this country are not only more frequent,
but they are infinitely more fatal than those of
any other nation. We will hereafter consider the
cause, and discuss their manner. But no reason-
able man can suppose that a sagacious nation,
which is so sensitive on the point of honour, would
stupidly allow their sisters and daughters to be
debauched, when their own personal experience
must apprise them of the danger to which they
are exposed. The evil would necessarily correct
itself. The chief reason why the present customs
can exist without abuse, is no doubt owing to the
fact that there is no army, nor any class of idlers, to
waste their time in dissolute amusements. Some-
thing is also due to the deep moral feeling which
pervades the community, and which influences the
exhibition of vice in a thousand different ways. But
having said so much on the subject, }ou may ex-
pect me to name the extent to which this freedom
of intercourse extends. Under the direction of
my friend Cadwallader, I shall endeavour to
acquit myself of the obligation.

You will readily understand that the usages of
society must always be more or less tempered by
the circles in which they are exhibited. Among
those families which can claim to belong to the
Slite, the liberty allowed to unmarried females, I
am inclined to think, is much the same as is prac-
tised jimong the upper classes in England, with this
difference, that, as there is less danger of innova-

HABITS OF AN AMERICAN tilKL.

2G1

tion on rank through fortune-hunters and fashion-
able aspirants, so is there less jealousy of their
approaches. A young American dances, chats,
laughs, and is just as happy in the saloon, as
she was a few years before in the nursery. It is
expected that the young men would seek her
out, sit next her, endeavour to amuse her, and,
in short, to make themselves as agreeable as pos-
sible. By the memory of the repentant Benedict,
Compte Jules, but this is a constant and sore temp-
tation to one who has never before been placed in
the jeopardy of such a contagious atmosphere !
But it is necessary to understand the tone of con-
versation that is allowed, in order to estimate the
dangers of this propinquity.

The language of gallantry is never tolerated. A
married woman would conceive it an insult, and a
girl would be exceedingly apt to laugh in her
adorer's face. In order that it should be fa-
vourably received, it is necessary that the former
should be prepared to forget her virtue, and to
the latter, whether sincere or not, it is an absolute
requisite that all adulation should at least wear
the semblance of sincerity. But he who addresses
an unmarried female in this language, whether it
be of passion or only feigned, must expect to be
exposed, and probably disgraced, unless he
should be prepared to support his sincerity by an
offer of his hand. I think I see you tremble at
the magnitude of the penalty ! I do not mean to

} I . ■ ,! . :;*■.

, I ; J

2G2 UKSFUVK AND .SIMPJ.ICITY OK TliK WOMEN.

say that idle pleasantries, such as are mutually
unde, stood to be no more than pleasantries, are
not sometimes tolerated ; but an American female
is exceedingly apt to assume a chilling gravity at
the slightest trespass on what she believes, and,
between ourselves, rightly believes, to be the
dignity of her sex. Here, you will perceive, is a
saving custom, and one, too, that it is exceedingly
hazardous to infringe, which diminishes one half
of the ordinary dangers of the free communication
between the young of the two sexes. Without
doubt, when the youth has once made his choice, he
endeavours to secure an interest in the affections of
the chosen fair, by all those nameless assiduities
and secret sympathies, which, though they ap-
pear to have produced no visible fruits, cannot be
unknown to one of your established susceptibility.
These attractions lead to love ; and love, in this
country, nineteen times in twenty, leads to matri-
mony. But pure, heart-felt affection, rarely ex-
hibits itself in the language of gallantry. The
latter is no more than a mask, which pretenders
assume and lay aside at pleasure ; but when the
heart is really touched, the tongue is at best but
a miserable interpreter of its emotions. 1 have
always ascribed our own forlorn condition to the
inability of that mediating member to do justice
to the strength of emotions that are seemingly as
deep as they are frequent.
There is another peculiarity in American man-

J'KCUMAR RKSKRVE IN CONVKRSATION.

203

nersthat should be mentioned. You probably know
that in England far more reserve is used, in conver-
sation with a female, than in most, if not all of the
nations of the continent. As, in all peculiar customs,
each nation prefers its own usage ; and while the
English lady is shocked with the freedom with
which the French lady converses of her personal
feelings, ailings, &c., the latter turns the nicety of
the former into ridicule. It would be an invidious
office to pretend to decide between the tastes of
such delicate disputants; but one manner of con-
sidering the subject is manifestly wrong. The
great reserve of the English ladies has been
termed a manvaise honte, which is ascribed to
their insular situation, and to their circumscribed
intercourse with the rest of the world. And yet
it may be well questioned if the paysanne cannot
successfully compete with the clcgantey in this
species of refinement, or whether a dame des halles
cannot rather more freely discuss her animal func-
tions than a dame de la cour. This is a manner of dis-
posing of the question that will not abide the test of
investigation, since it is clear that refinement makes
us reserved, and not communicative, on all such
topics. Fashion, it is true, may cause even coarse-
ness to be sometimes tolerated, and, after all, it
is no easy matter to decide where true refinement
ends, or sickliness of taste commences. Let all
this be as it may, it is certain that the women of
America, of all classes, are much more reserved

P Jiil

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264

CUSTOMS OF DIFFERf:NT COUNTRIES.

and guarded in their discourse, at least in presence
of our sex, than even the women of the country
whence they derive their origin. Various opinions
are entertained on the subject amongst themselves.
The vast majority of the men like it, because they
are used to no other custom. Many, who have
got a taste of European usages, condemn it as
over fastidious ; but my friend Cadwallader, who
is not ignorant of life in both hemispheres, wor-
ships it, as constituting one of the distinctive and
appropriate charms of the sex. He stoutly main-
tains, that the influence of woman is more felt
and revered in American society than in any
other ; and he argues, with no little plausibility,
that it is so because, w*^ile she rarely or never
exceeds the natural du of her station, she for-
gets none of those distinctive features of her sex
and character, which, by constantly appealing to
the generosity of man by admitting her physical
weakness, give strength and durability to her
moral ascendancy. I think, at all events, no in-
telligent traveller can journey through this country
without being struck by the singular air of de-
cency and self-respect which belongs to all its
women, and no honest foreigner can deny the
kindness and respect they receive from the men.*

* A conversation once occurred between a French and an Ameri-
can gentleman on this subject, in presence of the writer. The
former insisted that the Americans did not treat their women as
poUtely as the French, though he did not deny thinking their treat-

PUKCAUTIONS USKD I\ UPPKK CLASS. 265

With these restrictions, which cannot be in-
fringed without violating the rules of received
decorum, you will readily perceive that the free
intercourse between the unmarried is at once
deprived of half its danger. But the upper classes
in this country are far from neglecting many ne-
cessary forms. As they have more to lose by
matrimonial connections than others, common
prudence teaches them the value of a proper
caution. Thus a young lady never goes in public
without the eye of some experienced matron to
watch her movements. She cannot appear at a
play, ball, &c. &c. without a father, or a brother,
at least, and it is thought far more delicate and
proper that she should have a female guardian.
She never rides nor walks — unless in the most
public places, and then commonly with great

ment substantially kind. " For instance," he said, " you will not,
half the time, give a lady the wall in passing in the street." " Very
true," returned the American, " we carry our politeness much
further ; we are humane. There is not a street in all America with-
out trottoirs, and most of them, as you well know, are broad and
comfortable. It is true, we inherit the custom from England ; but
had we not, the necessities of woman alone would have caused us
to adopt some such plan for her relief. We commonly take the
right in passing, because it is most convenient to have a general
rule. If any thing, the wall is neither so safe nor so agreeable as
the outer side of the walk." Now it appears to the writer, that this
reply contains the very essence of the kindness of man to woman
in America. There is little show in it ; but every thing that is con-
siderate and useful. .

•ill

< 'ft'; ■

260 ( ONHDINCi PUACTICK OF TIIK COITNTUV.

reserve— attended by a sinj^le man, unless indeed
under circumstances of a peculiar nature. In short,
she pursues that course which rigid delicacy would
prescribe, without however betraying: any marked
distrust of the intentions of the other sex. These
customs are relaxed a little as you descend in the
scale of society ; but it is evidently more because
the friends of a girl with ten or twenty thousand
dollars, or of a family in middle life, have less
jealousy of motives than those of one who is rich,
or otherwise of a particularly desirable con-
nection.

I shall close this long and discursive epistle with
one more distinctive custom, that may serve to give
you an idea of the tone and simplicity of this so-
ciety. There is something repugnant to the delicacy
of American ideas in permitting a lady to come, in
any manner, in contact with the world. A woman
of almost any rank above the labouring classes,
is averse to expose herself to the usual collisions,
bargainings, &c. &c., of ordinary travelling. Thus,
the first thing aa American woman requires to
commence a journey, is a suitable male escort ;
the very thing that with us would be exception-
able. Nothing is more common, for instance,
when a husband or a brother hears that a re-
spectable acquaintance is about to go in the same
steam-boat, stage, or on the same route, as that
in which his wife or sister intends to journey,
than to request the former to become her pro-

KAUKLY AT.! SKI). IMNIXGS OF A B ACM KI.OH. 207

lector. The request is rarely refused, and the
trust i*« always considered flattering, and com-
monly sacred. Here you see that the very cus-
tom which in Europe would create scandal, is
here resorted to, under favour of good morals and
directness of thought, to avert it. Cadwallader
assures me that he was pained, and even shocked,
at meeting well-bred women running about Europe
attended only by a footman and a maid, and that
for a long time he could not divest himself of the
idea, that they were unfortunate in having lost
all those male friends, whose natural duty it was
to stand between their helplessness and the cold
calculating selfishn ss of the world. There would
be some relief to the etimd of our desolation, gal-
lant Jules, could our own single-blessedness take
refuge in the innocent delights of such a servi-
tude ! — Adieu.

TO THE COMTE JULES DE BlfcTHIZY.

New York,

There is a secret pleasure in discoursing of the
habits, affections, and influence of the sex, which
invariably leads me astray from all other objects.
I find, on perusing my letter-book, that the temp-

ts'u fe f'

t:
11

•51

2G8

l-EAVKS NEM^ YORK FOR THE IVTKKIOR.

tation of treating on the usages of the American
women, completely lured me from a recollection
of the fHc in ^hich I was happy enough to see
so many of the fair creatures congregated. It is
now too late to return to a description of a scene
that would require hours to do it justice, and we
must, in consequence, take our departure ab-
ruptly for the interior of the state of New York.
It had been previously arranged that Cadwallader
and his ^— — acquaintance should take passage
in a steam-boat that was destined to receive La
Fayette, and which was to depart, at a stated
hour, from the terrace of the casile garden itself.

It must be confessed that these republicans
have given a princely reception to their venerable
guest. It forms one portion of their plan of hos-
pitality, that he is to receive every accommoda-
tion to which he is entitled by his rank and
services, and every facility of movement possible,
without the least pecuniary cost. At every city,
and indeed at every hamlet he enters, lodgings,
table, carriage, and, in short, all the arrangements
of a well-ordered establishment are made at the ex-
pense of the citizens. The government has nothing
further to do with it, than that it offered him a
vessel of war to conduct him to the cc untry, and
that it has issued orders that their ancient general
should be received with the customary military
honours at the different military and naval esta-
blishments, &c. that he may choose to visit. Every

SPONTANEOUS TRIIU'TES TO I, A FAVtrTI.. 2G9

R n

thing else is left to the good will and grateful
affection of the people, and nobly do they press
forward to lay their little offerings on the altar of
gratitude. The passage of La Fayette by land
is invariably conducted under an escort of local
cavalry, from town to town, while he never enters
a sta^e that he is not received either by its go-
vernor in person, or some suitable representative,
who charges himself with all that is necessary to
the comfort of the guest during the time that he
is to remain in those particular territories. The
receptions, entertainments, and contributions of
the several towns are made subject to this general
controul, and by this means confusion is avoided,
and dispatch, an important part where so much
is to be done, is commonly secured.

On the present occasion, La Fayette was to
present himself in the towns on the banks of the
Hudson ; to examine the great military school at
West Point, and to revisit many of those scenes
of peculiar interest in which he had been an im-
portant actor five and forty years before. A
capacious, comfortable, and even elegant steam-
boat, was appropriated to his use.* It might

* The luxury of the American steam-boats is peculiar to the na-
tion. Those of England are certainly next to them in size, shew,
and elegance ; but the writer thinks they cannot be said to be equal
in either. Their number, considering the population of the country,
is amazing. There cannot be less than fifty, that ply on the waters
which communicate with the city of New York alone. On the

270 DKPARTURE FOIl ALBANY. lll'DSON' RIVFH.

readily have transported several hundred souls,
and one or two hundred could sleep beneath the
decks with as much comfort as is usually found
in the limited space of any vessel.

A little after midnight we were told it was ne-
cessary to depart. Our baggage and servants
were already on board, and following the motions
of La Fayette, who tore himself from a crowd of
the fair and affectionate daughters of America,
that seemed in truth to regard him with eyes of
filial affection, we left the brilliant scene together.
The boat was in readiness, and stepping on her
decks from the lower terrace beneath the walls of
the castle, in five minutes we were making swift
progress along the noble river of the north, as it
is often called in this country. For a few minutes
we saw the halo of light which hung about the
scene we had quitted, and heard the soft sounds
of the distant music diffusing themselves on the

Mississippi and its tributaries, there are near a hundred, many
of which are as large as small frigates. Of their elegance it may
be said that one is now running on the Hudson, which, besides a
profus-j expenditure of marble, mahogany, the beautiful bird's-eye
maple of the country, and all the other customary ornaments, has
its cabins actually surrounded by compartments painted in land-
scapes, &c. &c. by artists who would occupy highly creditable situa-
tions among their brethrei. in Europe. This boat has run from
New York to Albany, a distance of about one hundred and forty-
seven miles, in eleven hours and a-half. Every day, too, is exhibit-
ing improvements in machinery and form, as also in luxury and
comfort. . ,

MORNING. RIVKR COMPARED TO OTHERS, 271

water, and then came the gloomier objects of the
sleeping town, with its tall, straight spires, its
forests of masts, and its countless rows of battle-
ment walls, and of chimneys, in brick. The
whole company, which consisted of some fifty or
sixty, immediately retired to their berths, and in
a few minutes the dashing of the wheels against
the water, and the dead, dull movement of the
engine, lulled me to sleep.

I was up long before most of the company.
La Fayette was on deck, attended by one or two
foreigners, who, like myself, were anxious to lose
as little as possible of the glorious scenery of this
renov/ned river, and two or three Americans, who
had reached that time of life when sleep is getting
less necessary than it was in youth. The night
had been foggy and unusually dark, and we had
lost some time by touching on an oyster bank
that lies in one of the broadest parts of the river.
This delay, however, though it served to discon-
cert some of the arrangements of the towns above,
was certainly propitious to our wishes, since it
enabled us, who had never before been on this
water, to see more of its delightful landscapes.
As I do not intend often to molest you with de-
scriptions that cannot be considered distinctive,
you will bear with me for a moment while I make
a little digression in favour of the Hudson, which,
after having seen the Rhine, the Rhone, the
Loire, the Seine, the Danube, the Wolga, the

.•■Mm

ill

!S.-

) S

272

DESCHIPTION OF THE HUDSON.

Dnieper, and a hundred others, I fearlessly pro-
nounce to embrace a greater variety of more noble
and more pleasing natural objects, than any one
of them all.

For the first fifty miles from its mouth, the
Hudson is never much less than a mile in width,
and, in two instances, it expands into small lakes
of twice that breadth, running always in a direc-
tion a little west of north. The eye, at first, looks
along an endless vista, that narrows by distance,
but which opposes nothing but distance to the
view. The western shore is a perpendicular rock,
weather-worn and venerable, bearing a little of
the appearance of artificial parapets, from which
word it takes its name. This rock has a very
equal altitude of about five hundred feet. At the
foot of this wall of stone, there is, occasionally,
room for the hut of some labourer in the quarries,
which are wrought in its side, and now and then
a house is seen seated on a narrow bottom, that
may furnish subsistence for a few cattle, or, per-
haps, a garden for the occupant. The opposite
bank is cultivated to the water, though it is also
high, unequal, and broken. A few villages are
seen, white, neat, and thriving, and of a you'thful,
vigorous air, as is generally the case with an
American village, while there is scarcely an eligi^
ble site for a dwelling that is not occupied by a
villa, or one of the convenient and respectable
looking farm-houses of the country. Orchards,

SKCOND DIVISION OF THE SCEXKRV.

273

cattle, fields of grain, and all the other signs of a
high domestic condition, serve to heighten the
contrast of the opposing banks. This description,
short and imperfect as it is, may serve to give you
some idea of what I should call the first distinc-
tive division of this extraordinary river. The
second commences at the entrance of the High-
lands. These are a succession of confused and
beautifully romantic mountains, with broken and
irregular summits, which nature had apparently
once opposed to the passage of the water. The
elements, most probably assisted by some violent
convulsion of the crust of the earth, triumphed,
and the river has wrought for itself a sinuous
channel through the maze of hills, for a distance
of not less than twenty miles. Below the High-
lands, though the parapets and their rival banks
form a peculiar scenery, the proportions of objects
are not sufficiently preserved to give to the land,
or to the water, the effect which they are capable
of producing in conjunction. The river is too
broad, or the hills are too low. But within the
Highlands, the objection is lost. The river is re-
duced to less than half its former width, (at least it
appears so to the eye,) while the mountains rise
to three and four times the altitude of the parapets.
Rocks, broken, ragged, and fantastic ; forests,
through which disjointed precipices are seen form-
ing dusky backgrounds ; promontories ; dark,
deep bays ; low sylvan points ; elevated plains ;

VOL. I. T

^:'^ -+i.;

. t
1 i

274

highlands: wkst point.

gloomy, retiring vallies ; pinnacles ; cones ; ram-
parts, that overhang and frown upon the water ;
and, in short, almost every variety of form in which
the imagination can conjure pictures of romantic
beauty, are assembled here. To these natural
qualities of the scenery, must be associated more
artificial accessories than are common to Ame-
rica. The ruins of military works are scattered
profusely among these wild and ragged hills, and
more than one tale of blood and of daring is re-
counted to the traveller, as he glides among their
sombre shadows. To these relics of a former
age, mu?t be added the actual aud flourishing
establishment at the " Point," which comprises a
village of academic buildings, barracks, and other
adjunct'. I remember nothing more striking in
its way than a view up one of the placid reaches
of this passage. The even surface of the water,
darkened here and there with broad shadows
from a pyramid of rock ; the glorious hue of a
setting sun gilding the green sides of a distant
mountain, over which the vark passage of a cloud
was occasionally to be traced, resembling the
flight of some mighty bird ; with twenty or thirty
lagging sails, whitening the channel from whose
smooth surface they were reflected as from that
of a mirror, formed the picture.

Above the Highlands, the river again assumes
a different charactei'. From the bay of Newburg
to that of Hudson, a distance at least of sixty

les
|urg

rillUI) DIVISION OF TIIK UIVIK.

275

or seventy miles, it appears like a succession of
beautiful lakes, each reach preserving the pro-
portions and appearance of a separate sheet of
water, rather than of part of a river. There are a
few of these detached views that may compete
with any of Italy, and to one in particular there is
a noble background of mountains, removed a few
miles from the water, which are thrown together
in splendid confusion.

From Hudson to Albany, some thirty miles, the
Hudson acquires more of the character of a river,
according to our European notions. It is dotted
with islands, much like the Seine abo^^e Caudebec,
and its scenery is picturesque aud exceedingly
agreeable. This character, indeed, is preserved
even to Waterford, a few miles further, and above
the point where its waters are increased by the
contributions of the Mohawk.

At Waterford, one hundred and eighty miles
from the sea, it becomes a reduced and rural
stream, about as large as the Seine at Paris,
and can be traced for leagues, sometimes still,
lovely, and green with islands, and sometimes
noisy, rapid, and tumbling, until you reach its
sources in the rugged, broken mountains of the
northern counties of the state. There are far
mightier streams in this country than the Hudson,
but there is not one of scenery so diversified and
so pleasing. The Rhine, with its cities, its hun-
dred castles, and itn inexhaustible recollections,

T 2

l\ ■■\l^

nil

!A -^^

\ - ' ■ ■

•'I'U.'

mil

276 IMPORTANCE OF THE IIKillLANU PORT.

has charms of its own ; but when time shall lend
to the Hudson the interest of a deeper association,
its passage will, I think, be pronounced un-
equalled. At present, even, it is not without
a character of peculiar moral beauty. The view
of all the improvements of high civilization in
rapid, healthful, and unequalled progress, is
cheering to philanthropy; while the countless
villas, country houses, and even seats of reason-
able pretension, are calculated to assure one, that,
amid the general abundance of life, its numberless
refinements are not neglected.

The Highlands had been the great military
position of the Americans during the struggle for
their independence. The scattered population of
the country, at that time, lay along the shores of
the Atlantic, between the forty-third and the
thirty-third degrees of latitude. Perhaps one
half of the entire physical strength of the country
then existed in the states of New England. It is
well known, that after the insurrection had as-
sumed the character of a war, Great Britain,
instead of maintaining, was obliged to resort to
the more established principles of a regular
contest to recover her former dominion. She
obtained the possession of Montreal and New
York. Nature, by means of the Hudson and
the northern lakes, offered extraordinary facili-
ties of communication between the two places ;
and politic'.*ns, at the distance of three thou-

A FAVOURITE SCHEME OF THE WAR OF 177(J. 277

sand miles, as they studied the map, vainly
imagined that the cord of moral connection
could be severed as easily as one of a more
perishable nature. It was believed, that by
marching armies from the opposite extremities,
and leaving sufficient garrisons at the most
important points along their routes, the inter-
course between the eastern and the other states
could be so far interrupted as to render con-
quest certain. There can be no doubt that
the success of such a plan would for a time
have thrown great embarrassment in the way of
the Americans, though it is morally certain it
would have assured the final failure of the royal
cause. The idea of covering a country, peopled
like that in dispute, with niilitary posts, ought to
have been deemed too absurd for serious consi-
derixi'on. A power stronger than even that of the
bayonet had already taught the intended victims
of this plan confidence in themselves and in their
cause. It is clear that the scheme could only suc-
ceed in a nation,whose people had been accustomed
to consider themselves as appendages to, instead
of the controllers of, a political system. It would
have been giving to the Americans a vast ad-
vantage already possessed by their enemies, by
dividing the power of the latter, and in inviting
attack, as it must have indicated the points against
which a superior force might have been easily
directed. The experiment was afterwards made

U
I It a

11 p1

hi
m

278

II K A SONS AGAINST IIS StCCKSS.

in the less populous states of the south, and com-
pletely failed, most of the garrisons being captured
in succession. One might almost fancy he saw the
stubborn yeomanry of New England leaving their
ploughs for a week, in order to mingle in the pas-
time of reducing a hostile garrison. In short, the
plan was German, and however successful it might
have been between the Rhine and the Danube, it
would have infallibly ended in disgrace, on the
banks of the Hudson. It did end in disgrace,
though time was not given for its complete deve-
lopment. The yeomanry of New England, instead
of waiting for that portion of the royal force which
debouched from the St. Lawrence to commu-
nicate with their brethren on the Hudson, saw fit
to divert their course, and marched the whole of
what was, in that day, a powerful army, prisoners
of war to Boston. This was merely effecting in
gross, that which, under other circumstances,
would have infallibly been done in detail.

In America man had early discovered that the
social machine was invented for his use, and it
would have required something far more powerful
than the display of a line of ensigns to direct him
from the great object on which he had gravely,
deliberately, and resolutely determined. Still as
every foot of land acquired was so far a conquest
as its sovereignty formed a portion of the disputed
territory, it cannot be supposed that the Ameri-
cans were indifferent to the possession of the

ATTEiMPT TO nKTKAY THE AMERICAN CATSK. 279

strungesi fortress of their country. By holding
the Highlands they rendered the communications
between the states more easy, and they kept a con-
stant check on the movements of the royal forces
in the vastly important city of New York. West
Point, the heart of their positions in these moun-
tains, had been strongly fortified, and its defence
was justly enough considered as of the greatest
moment to the cause. After the arrival of
the French army at Rhode Island, a conquest
which had baffled all the previous exertions of the
British, should have been abandoned as impossi-
ble. It would seem a hope was indulged that what
could not be achieved by force of arms, might be
effected by means less martial. The officer in
command of West Point, a man of talents and
of great personal courage, but one of depraved
morals, was unfortunately disposed to make
advances which Sir Henry Clinton, the English
commander-in-chief, was glad to meet. It is well
known that the British Adjutant- General Andr6
was employed as a negociator on this occasion.
La Fayette had been an actor in some of the
scenes connected with this interesting event, and
as we walked the deck together, and gazed upon
the mountains which environed us, he revived
his own recollections, and delighted some half
dozen greedy auditors, by dwelling on the more
familiar incidents of that day.

It appears that a British sloop of war had

■ (

li'^.

>:>■

280

andrk: man'nkk of his captlue.

ascended the river, and anchored in a wide bay a
few miles below the entrance of the Highlands.
This sloop (the Vulture) had brought Major Andr6
and, having landed him, was » ;ing his return.
The adjutant general was indi.oed to enter within
the lines of the American sentinels for the purpose
of acquiring a knowledge of the force, condition,
and defences of his enemy ; an act that clearly
committed him as a spy. His retreat was ren-
dered difficult, and instead of returning to the
Vulture, he assumed a disguise, and attempted to
regain New York by traversing the intervening
county of West-Chester. On his road he was
intercepted by three young American farmers,
who, according to the usage of the country, were
in ambush to await the passage of any small party
of the British, or of their friends, who might
chance to come that way. By these young men
was Andr6 arrested. The Americans were in
common parlance termed the party abovCt (in
reference to the course of the river,) and their
foes, the party below. As there was nothing im-
mediately in view about the person of Major
Andr^ to betray his real character, it is quite pos-
sible that, had he retained his presence of mind,
he might, after a short detention, have been per-
mitted to pass. But his captors manifested much
more sagacity than the British officer himself.
Some allowance, however, ought in justice to be
made for the critical situation of the latter. He

WANT OK IMIKSKXCK OF MINI).

281

eagerly demanded ** To which party do you
belong?'* The Americans adroitly answered
*' below." To this simple artifice he became a
victim, immediately confessing himself a British
officer. Now, it is quite plain to us, who specu-
late on the death of this young officer, that had
he possessed a quickness of intellect equal to the
questionable office he had assumed, his miserable
fate might have been averted. By assuming the
character of an American he would clearly have
been safest, let his captors prove to be what they
would ; since, if enemies, it might have lulled their
suspicions, or if friends, they would at most have
conducted him to the British camp, the very spot
he was risking his life to gain. Providence had
ordained it differently. He wa searched, and
plans of the works at the Point, with other im-
portant communications, were found about his
person. It then became necessary to intreat and
to promise. Though the English were known to
pay well, and to possess the means of bribing
high, these young yeomen were true to the sacred
cause of their country. Neither gold, nor
honours, nor dread of the future, could divert
them from their duty. The helpless adjutant-
general was conveyed to the nearest post, de-
livered into the hands of its commandant, was
sent to head quarters, tried, and finally hanged. ^
During the time Arnold was maturing his work
of treason, Washinofton >as absent from the

J' *i

*'U-'t

U..4;*

K )■

iili

282 Ol'I'OHTlfVK AI{UIVAI. nh' WASillN'OTOV.

army, in the adjoining state of Connecticut,
whither he liad gone to arrange a plan for the
ensuing and final campaign of tlie contest, with
the commandant of the French forces. La
Fayette was of the party. It happened that
these military chiefs arrived in the mountains on
the very morning when the arrest of Andre (under
a fictitious name; was made known at 'the Point.'
The residence of Arnold was on the east side of
the river. The principal fortresi, or the * Point,'
was nearly opposite. Washington and his suite
were engaged to breakfast at the former place,
but a desire to inspect certain posts in the passes,
interfered with the arrangement. Two aides*
were despatched with an apology, and a promise
to repair tb*^. failure at dinner. The other guests
were at table (at breakfast), when a letter was
put into the hands of Arnold, which he read
without betraying any emotion. It was the
report of the officer in advance, that he had
arrested a " John Anderson," of the British army,
under circumstances of great suspicion. As this
was the name Andr6 had assumed by agreement,
the traitor instantly knew his danger. After
a moment's pause, he left the table, at which a
dozen officers of rank had assembled to greet

* Hamilton, an aid of Washington, afterwards so distinguished in
the history of his country ; and M'Henry, an aide of La Fayette,
subsequently Secretary of War. It is pleasant to trace these young
men in the events of their early lives, through these famihar scenes.

EXTUAOUDINAIIY tOOLNKSb OK AUNOI.I). 'i^ii

Washington, and ascended to his chamber. His
wife had been able to penetrate an uneasiness
■which less anxious eyes had failed to detect.
Apologizing to her guests, she followed her hus-
band to his room. It is suspected that she had
been privy to his intentions to betray the Ameri-
can c?use. He communicated the failure of the
plan, and his own imminent danger, in as few
words a3 possible. He then left her in a swoon,
stepping over her insensible body, and telling a maid
to give assistance, he passed through the room,
informing his guests, with the utmost coolness,
that his wife was seized with a sudden indisposi-
tion, and that there was a necessity for his own
immediate departure for the Point, in order to
prepare for the military reception of the comman-
der-in-chief. Although the known cupidity of
the man had excited very general disgust, his
devotion to his country, which had been tried in
so many battles, was not in the slightest degree
distrusted. As yet, you will remember, he had
all the evidences of his guilt in his own pos-
session.

Quittmg the house, Arnold mounted a horse
belonging to one of his aides, and gallopped a
half mile to a place where his barge was in wait-
ing. He entered the boat with a favourable tide,
and commanded the crew to pull down the river.
His object was to get as soon as possible beyond
the reach of the cannon of the forts. Of course

1 1^

Iff'

)■ ' , i

284 HIS SUCCESSFUL AND NARROW ESCAPE.

he was obeyed, and, as no suspicions had been
excited, he was believed to be at the Point, when,
in truth, he was making the best of his way along
the lovely mountain-river I have endeavoured to
describe. The distance to go before he was
safe, was seventeen or eighteen miles, for all the
commanding points were in the keeping of his
injured countrymen. By the aid of great encou-
ragement, his crew (who were deceived by a tale
that he was going on board the Vulture with a
flag on urgent business) made such exertions as
enabled him to get through the lower pass, before
the courier with the intelligence of his treason had
arrived. Throughout the whole affair this wretched
man, who has acquired a notoriety that promises
to be Jis lasting as that of Erostratus, manifested
the utmost coolness and decision.*

Arnold had scarcely got beyond the reach of
the cannon on the Point, when Washington, La
Fayette, and Knox, another distinguished general,
with their several suites, arrived. The commander-
in-chief was naturally enough surprised that his
host was not at home to receive him. An aide of
Arnold (Major Franks) apologized so warmly
for the absence of his general, as to create doubts

* The writer has had the double advantage of listening to the
deeply interesting details of La Fayette, and of hearing Arnold's ovrn
statement ficm a British officer, who was present when the latter re-
lated his escape at a dinner given in New York, with an impudence
that was scarcely less remarkable than his surprising self-possession.

WANT OF SUSPICION IN WASHINGTON. 285

of his own faith when the facts came to be
known. After a short delay, Washington, with
most of the company, crossed the river to the
fortress. Some surprise was expressed, as they
approached the shore, that no movement was
seen among the troops ; and they landed with-
out the slightest evidence of their being ex-
pected visiters. The officer in command soon
appeared, and made his excuses for not paying
his superior the customary honours, on the
ground of ignorance that he was expected. " Is
not General Arnold here?" demanded Washing-
ton. " No, Sir ; we have not seen him on this
side of the river to-day." Some amazement was
expressed among the generals ; but treason was
so little in consonance with the feeling of
the times, that not the smallest suspicion was
even yet excited. Washington continued on
the west side of the river, until the hour for dinner
was near, when he returned to the abandoned
residence of the fugitive, to comply with his en-
gagement of the morning. As the party ap-
proached the house, Colonel Hamilton, who had
not crossed the river, was seen pacing its court-
yard in a high state of excitement. He held in
his hands a bundle of papers. He gave the latter
to the commander-in-chief, and they retired to-
gether. These papers were the plans, &c. found
on the person of Andr6, and they fully explained
his object, and betrayed the guilt of Arnold.

■*;

If?

'"rf

28G

M AiWKR OF IKAUNING I'lIF. TRUTH.

Had not Washington been so near, it is probable
that Arnold Mould have used his authority to
liberate the British officer, and then governed his
own conduct by circumstances ; but the presence
of that illustrious man was fated to be of service
to his country in more ways than one. As has
been seen, the traitor had only time to consult his
own selfish apprehensions. He fled like a thief.

La Fayette, still ignorant of what had occurred,
was dressing for dinner, when his aide, M*Henry,
entered for his pistols. Without explanation, he
and Hamilton mounted their horses, and gallopped
through the passes of the mountains, in order to
interrupt the flight of Arnold. It has since ap-
peared, that the officer in advance (a Colonel
Jamieson) had despatched his first messenger with
the report that had reached the hands of Arnold
before examining the papers, but that he lost no
time in repairing the mistake the instant he had
perused them. This short interval saved the
life of Arnold, and forfeited that of his asso-
ciate. When Washington and La Fayette met,
the former put the report of Jamieson into the
hands of the latter, and said, with tears in his
eyes, " Arnold is a traitor, and has fled to the
British !" General Knox was present at this
scene.

Washington now sought an interview with the
wife of the traitor. He found her raving, though
sensible of his presence and character. She im-

J ,"1

TERROR OF MRS. ARNOr.n : COXFIDENCK. 287

Ithe

igh

lim-

plored him not to injure her, and was so com-
pletely under the influence of terror as to heg
" he would not murder her child." Commending
her to the care of the attendants, he left the room.
Notwithstanding the immense stake that was in-
volved in the treason, and his entire ignorance of its
extent, the self-possession of thiis extraordinary
man was undisturbed. For a single moment he had
appeared to mourn over the moral depravity that
could expose so fair a cause to so base an action,
but it would have baffled the keenest eye to have
traced in his countenance the existence of the
slightest alarm. He entered the dining-room
calm and dignified as usual, and apologizing for
the absence of both host and hostess, he invited
the company to be seated. It was only in the
course of the entertainment,^ so extended and com-
plete was the influence of his collected and im-
posing manner, that the news of the event was
circulated from ear to ear in whispers.

The commandant of the advanced post of the
highlands, at Stoney Point, was at hand. This
officer (a Colonel Cole) was a warm friend and a
protegS of Arnold. He had even carried his at-
tachment so far, as to have fought a duel in
defence of the traitor's character but a short time
before the exposure of the treason. Washington
now sent for him. " Colonel," he said, ** we have
been deceived in the character of General Arnold;
he has betrayed us. Your post may be attacked

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288

TREASON CONFIXED TO AHNOLD.

this very night : go to it without delay, and de-
fend it, as I know you will." This noble con-
fidence was not misplaced. Cole could with
difficulty speak. Pressing his hand on his heart,
he found words merely to utter — ** Your excel-
lency has more than rewarded all I have done, or
ever can do for my country," and departed. Is
there not something noble, and worthy of the best
days of classic recollection, in the single-minded
and direct character which marked the events of
this glorious contest ? One loves to dwell on that
integrity, which having been compelled to give
credit to one act oi baseness, refuses to believe
that another can be meditated. I know no fact
more honourable to the American character than
the one which proves that, notwithstanding the
great trust and high character the traitor had
once enjoyed, his influence ended the instant he
was known to be unworthy of confidence. While
on board the Vulture, he essayed in vain to tempt
the Serjeant and six men, who composed the crew
of his own boat, to follow his fortunes, tho igh
every offer which might tempt men of their class
was resorted to, in order to induce them to change
their service. " If General Arnold likes the King
of England, let him serve him," said the stubborn
Serjeant ; " we love our country, and intend to live
or die in support of her cause." The traitor must
have felt the bitter degradation of his fall, even
in this simple evidence of his waning power. Ex-

class

IMPLDENT LKTTKR OF ARNOLD.

289

asperated at their refusal, Arnold would have
kept them as prisoners, but the English captain
was far too honourable to lend himself to so dis-
graceful a transaction. They returned as they
came, under the protection of a flag.

The day passed away in the reflections and
precautions such a discovery would be likely to
produce. In the evening the barge returned from
the Vulture, bearing an insolent letter from the
traitor to the commander-in-chief, in which,
among other undignified and vain threats, he
denounced the vengeance of his new masters,
unless certain conditions which he wished to im-
pose, were implicitly 'egarded. The impetuous
character of Washington's native temper is as
well known as the unrivalled self-command he
had acquired. While his eye glanced over this
impudent and characteristic communication from
Arnold, it appeared, by his countenance, as if
a burst of mighty indignation was about to
escape him« Recovering himself as it were by
magic, he turned to one of his aides with surpris-
ing moderation and dignity, and said, " Go to
Mrs. Arnold, and inform her, that, though my
duty required no means should be neglected to
arrest General Arnold, I have great pleasure in
acquainting her that he is now safe on board a
British vessel of war."

It ought to be added that, while the American
government proceeded steadily to their object

VOL. T.

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290 MKS. AltNOlJ). SITUATION Ol A\I)H<^:.

throughout the rest of this interesting transaction,
guided only by their reason, and utterly disre-
garding the menaces of the English general, the
wife of the traitor continued to receive every
attention which delicacy could prescribe. She
was permitted to go first to her friends in Phila-
delphia, and soon after was sent, under the pro-
tection of a flag, to her husband in New York.
There is something consoling to humanity to find,
even at a moment when war is assuming its most
revolting and horrid forms, that principles can be
grafted so deeply in our natures, as to leave no
fear that the more sacred ties of so^jety shall be
in danger of violation, and that the feeble and
dependent may be confident of receiving the ten-
derness and protection which is their due.

The fate of Andre became an object of the
keenest solicitude to both armies. From the
commencement of the struggle, to the last hour of
its continuance, the American authorities had
acted with a moderation and dignity that gave it
a character far more noble than that of a rebellion.
In no one instance had the war been permitted,
on their part, to assume the appearance of a strug-
gle for personal aggrandizement. It was men
battling for the known rights of human nature.
But a crisis had arrived when it was to be seen
whether they would dare to expose the defence-
less of their land, to the threatened retaliation of a
powerful foe. Such is the wayward feeling o^

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l)l>INiOX Ol" ANDRKS KN'TI.HIMM SE.

'201

man, that it is far less offensive to his power to
kill a general in open conflict, than to lead a
subordinate deliberately to an execution, which
is sanctioned only by a disputed authority. In
the present instance, however, the offender was
not only an officer of a high and responsible situa-
tion, but he was one who had made himself dear
to the army by his amiable qualities, and emi-
nently useful to its commander by his attainments.
I think, among men of high and honourable minds,
there can be but one opinion concerning the merit
of his enterprise. There is something so repug-
nant to every loyal sentiment in treason, that he
who is content to connect himself, ever so re-
motely, with its baseness, cannot expect to escape
altogether from its odium. It is true that public
opinion has, of necessity, fixed bounds which
military men may approach, without commit-
ting their characters for manliness and honour.
Without this privilege, it is plain that a general
could not arrive at the knowledge which is re-
quisite to enable him to protect his command
against attempts, that admit of no other control,
than the law of the strongest. But it is also true,
that the same sentiment has said it is dangerous
to reputation to pass these very limits. Thus,
while an officer may communicate with, and em-
ploy a spy, he can scarcely, with impunity,
become a spy himself. There is no doubt that
the motive and the circumstances may so far

01!

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292

UKASONS A(iAINSr I'l".

qualify, even more equivocal acts, as to change
their moral nature. Thus, Alfred, seeking to vin-
dicate the unquestionable rights of his country,,
was no less invested with the moral majesty of a
king, while wandering through the Danish camp,
than when seated on his throne ; but it may be
permitted to doubt whether the young military
aspirant, who sees only his personal preferment
in the distance, has a claim to be judged with the
same lenity.

Major Andr^ was the servant of a powerful and
liberal government, that was known never to re-
ward niggardly, and the war in which he served,
was waged to aggrandize its power, and not to
assert any of the natural rights of man. With
doubtful incentives, and for the attainment of such
an object, did this accomplished young soldier
condescend to prostitute his high acquirements,
and to tamper with treason. He did more. He
overstepped the coy and reserved distance which
conscious dignity preserves, even while it stoops
to necessity, and entered familiarly and personally
into the details of the disgusting bargain. The
mere technicalities of posts and sentinels, though
they may be important for the establishment of
rules which are to soften the horrors of war, can
have but little influence on the moral views of his
conduct. The higher the attainments of the in-
dividual, the greater must have been the flexibi-
lity which could see only the reward in an

^it

MOTIVES FOR HIS PUNISHMENT.

293

undertaking like this. As to the common-place
sentiment of serving king and country, every n»an
of an honest nature must feel that he would have
done more honour to his sovereign and to himself
by proving to the world, that the high trust he
enjoyed was discharged by a man who disdained
lending his talents to the miserable work of
deception, than by degrading his office, his cha-
racter, and his name, by blending them all, in
such familiar union, with treachery. In short,
while it cannot be denied that the office of a spy
may be made doubly honourable by its motives,
since he who discharges the dangerous duty may
have to conquer a deep moral reluctance to its
service, no less than the fear of death, I think it
must be allowed that the case of Major Andre was
one that can plead no such extraordinary exemp-
tion from the common and creditable feeling of
mankind.

The Americans were determined to assert the
dignity of their government. The question was
not one of vengeance, or even one of mere pro-
tection from similar dangers in future. It involved
the more lofty considerations of sovereignty. It
was necessary to show the world that he who
dared to assail the right i of the infant and strug-
gling republics, incurred a penalty as fearful as he
who worked his treason against the majesty of a
king. The calmness, the humanity, the modera-
tion, and the inflexible firmness, with which this
serious duty was performed, are worthy of all

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294

IIH.MNKSS OK THE A .M KKIC A \ S.

•;it

praise. While the Enj^lish general was vainly re-
sorting to menaces, the American authorities were
proceeding with deliberation to their object. A
feeling of universal compassion was excited in
favour of him who had been captured, which pro-
bably received some portion of its intenseness
from the general indignation against him who had
escaped. While the necessity of an example, in
an offence as grave as this, was felt by all, it re-
quired no peculiar moral vision to see that the
real criminal was free. Some time is said to have
been lost, during which Washington had reason-
able hopes of capturing Arnold,* in which case he
intended that justice should be appeased by one
victim. But this plan was frustrated by an unfore-
seen occurrence, and then it became necessary to
let the law take its course.

It has often been erroneously stated, that,
anxious to vindicate himself in the eyes of foreign
nations, Washington employed the European
generals in the service, on the court which was to
decide the fate of Andre. Every general officer
in his army was a member, and the foreigners
were nec.essarily included.

Whatever might have been the original error
of Andr^, in accepting a duty of so doubtful a
nature, there is but one opinion of his subsequent
conduct. It was highly noble and manly. The
delicacy of the court, and his own frankness, were

* See History of Serjeant Cliarape, in Lee's Memoirs.

ADMIUAIU-K CANDOrU Ol" AM)H6.

295

alike admirable. Though admonished to say
nothing that might commit himself, he disdained
subterfuge, or even concealment. A pretence had
been set up by the British general, that he had
entered the American ranks, under the protection
of a flag. He was asked if he himself had enter-
tained such an opinion. " Had I come with a flag,
I might have returned with a flag ;'' was his noble
answer. He had landed at the entrance of the
Highlands, and at a point where a sentinel had not
been posted for a long time. It was thought, in
the army, that Arnold had caused a sentinel to be
posted there anew as a precaution of safety, in the
case of detection. He might have pretended that
his only object was to entrap his enemy. Andr6
himself confessed, that when hailed by this sen-
tinel, he thought himself lost. This confession,
alone, had other proofs been wanting, was enough
to show his own opinion of the legal character of
his enterprise. He proceeded, however, and was
conducted by Arnold farther into the works, (how
far is not known,) and then, he concluded, after
having confessed these circumstances himself, "I
was induced to put on this wretched coat !" laying
his hand on the sleeve of the disguise he had as-
sumed. The opinion of the court was unanimous :
he was judged to come perfectly within the tech-
nical denomination of a spy, and was sentenced to
meet the fate of one.

After his condemnation. Major Andre received

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290 ins NOIU.K ( ONDLCT, AND DISA 1>I»0 IN'TM KNT.

every possible indulgence. A fruitless negocia-
tion took place between the adverse generals,
M^ith ahope, on the part of Clinton, to intimidate,
and on the part of Washington in order to manifest
a spirit of moderation, no less than to give the time
necessary to complete the plan to arrest the arch-
traitor. It was once suggested to Andr6 that he
might still be exchanged for Arnold. " If Arnold
could — " said Hamilton, who made the proffer.
" Stop," returned the condemned man, " such a
proposition can never come from inc.''

There is reason to think that Andr6 had soothed
himself in the earlier part of his captivity, with
hopes that were fated to be deceived. It had been
the misfortune of the English to undervalue the
Americans, and it was quite in nature for a young
man, who, it is well known, had often indulged in
bitter sarcasms against enemies he despised, to
believe that a nation he held so cheap, must have
some of his own awe of a government and a
power he thought invincibb It is certain he
always spoke of Sir Henry Clinton (the English
commander-in-chief) ^itli the affection and con-
fidence of a child, until he received his last letter,
which he read in much agitation, thrust into
his pocket, and never afterwards mentioned his
general's name. He confessed his ancient pre-
judices, but admitted they were all removed by
the tender treatment he had received. He neither
acknowledged nor denied the justice of his sen-

Ills DKATII. CONDUCT OF WASllIXtiTON. 297

tence. It is known, that though he experienced a
momentary shock at finding he was to suffer on a
gallows, he met his deatii lieroically, and died
amid the tears of all present.

There were in England (naturally enough per-
haps) many who affected to believe this execu-
tion had sullied the fair character of Washington.
But these miserable moralists and their opinions
have passed away ; and while they are consigned
to oblivion together, the fame they thought
to have impeached is brightening, as each day
proves how difficult it is to imitate virtues so rare.
Among impartial and intelligent men, this very
act of dignity and firmness; tempered as it was by
so much humanity, adds to the weight of his
imposing character.

We came-to at West Point, where La Fayette
landed amid a magnificent uproar of echoes,
which repeated, from the surrounding mountains,
the quick discharges of a small park of artillery.
The great military school of the republic is estab-
lished here. The buildings stand on an elevated
plain, which is washed by the river on two of its
sides, and is closely environed with rocky moun-
tains on the others. It is altogether a wild and
picturesque scene, eq ualling in beauty almost any
that I remember to have visited. Perhaps a
better site could not possibly have been selected
for the purpose to which it is at present devoted,
than West Point. The elcveSy who are to all

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298

MILITARY ACADEMY.

intents young soldiers, enjoy, by means of the
river, and the great number of steam-boat« that
pass and repass each hour of the day, the advan-
tage of speedy communication with the largest
town in the country, while they are as completely
secluded by their nearly inaccessible mountains,
as can be desired. It is quite common for travel-
lers to pass a few hours at this spot ; a circum-
stance which affords to the cadets the incentive of
a constant interest in their establishment, on the
part of the better portion of the community,
while they are completely protected from the
danger of intercourse with the worst. The dis-
cipline, order, neatness, respectibility, and scien-
tific progress of the young men are all admirable.
It is scarcely saying too much to add, that per-
haps no similar institution in the world is superior.
In Europe the military student may enjoy some
means of instruction that cannot be obtained here,
(though scarcely in the schools,) but, on the other
hand, there are high moral advantages that are
peculiar to this country. As detailed reports,
however, are annually made concerning the
state of this school, it is unnecessary for me to
enter into a more minute account of the situa-
tion in which I found it. I shall therefore
content myself with adding, that there are
between two and three hundred students who
devote four years to the school, that they undergo
numberless severe examinations, and that those

M'ARS OF THE UNITED STATES.

299

who are found wanting, are invariably dismissed,
without fear or favour, while those who pass are
as regularly commissioned to serve in the army of
the confederation.

J'M

TO THE COMTE JULES DE BETHIZY.

Sfc. Sfc.

New York,

Neither the geographical situation of the
United States, nor the habits of their citizens,
are very favourable to the formation of a military
character. Though the republic has actually
been engaged in six wars, since the year 1776,
only two have been of a nature to require the
services of land troops in the field. The two
struggles with England were close, and always,
for the number engaged in the combats, obstinate
and bloody, but the episode of a war with France
in 1799, the two with Algiers, and that with
Tripoli, only gave occasion for the courage and
skill of the marine.

By studying the character of the people, and by
looking closely into their history, it will be found
that they contain the elements to form the best of
troops. In point oi physique they are certainly not
surpassed. So far as the eye can judge, I should

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300

PHYSICAL FORCE OF THE MEN.

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say that men of great stature and strength are
about as common in America as elsewhere ; while
small men are more rare. I am much inclined to
think that the aggregate of mere animal force
would be found to be somewhat above the level
of Europe in its best parts. This is not at all
surprising, when one remembers the excellence
and abundance of nutriment which is within the
reach of the very poorest. Though little men are,
without doubt, seen here, they are by no means as
frequent as in England, in the southern provinces
of France, in Italy, Austria, and indeed almost
every where else.*

As might be expected, the military qualities
which the Americans have hitherto exhibited, are
more resembling those which distinguish the in-
dividual character of the soldier, than those
higher attainments which mark an advanced
knowledge of the art of war. As courage in its
best aspect is a moral attribute, a nation of free-
men must always be comparatively brave. In
that collective energy which is the fruit of dis-
cipline, the Americans, exjept in a few instances,
have been sadly deficient ; but in that personal
spirit, for which discipline is merely a substitute,
they have as often been remarkable. They are
certainly the only people who have been known to
resist, with repeated success, in their character of

* The writer afterwards found what he is almost tempted to call
a race of big men in the south-western states.

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MILITIA : ITS CHARACTER. A COMPARISON. 301

armed citizens, the efforts of the disciplined troops
of modern times. The militia and national guards
of Europe should not be compared to the militia
of America, for the former have always been
commanded and drilled by experienced soldiers ;
while the latter, though regularly officered, have
been led to the field by men in all respects as ig-
norant as themselves. And yet, when placed in
situations to rely on their personal efforts, and on
their manual dexterity in the use of arms, they
have often been found respectable, and sometimes
stubborn and unconquerableenemies.

The investigation of this subject has led me,
perhaps, into a singular comparison. At the great
battle of Waterloo, the actual English force in the
field is said to have been 36,000 men. These
troops undauntedly bore the assault of perhaps
rather more than an equal number. This assault
was supported by a tremendous train of artillery,
and directed by the talents of the greatest captain
of the age. It endured, including the cannonading
of the artillery, for at least five hours. The official
account of the British loss is 9,999 men, killed
and wounded. At the affair of Bunker' s-hill, the
Americans might have had between 2,000 and
2,500 yeomen actually engaged. Though these
men were marshalled in companies, their captains
knew little more of military service than the men
themselves. There was positively no commander
in the usual sense of the word. The aptitude of

302

EXECUTION AT BUXKER*S-HILL.

these people soon enables them to assume the
form of an army ; but it is plain that nothing
except practice can impart the habits necessary
to create good troops. At Bunker's-hill they
enjoyed, in their preliminary proceedings, the
advantage of a certain degree of order and
method, that elevated them something, it is true,
above an armed mob ; but it is probable that
they could not have made, with any tolerable
accuracy, a single complicated movement at their
greatest leisure, much less in the confusion of a
combat. Just so far, then, as the ability to pl?,ce
themselves behind their imperfect defences with
a certain military front was an advantage, they
might be deemed soldiers ; but in all other re-
spects they were literally the ordinary inhabi-
tants of the country, with very indifferent fire-
arms in their hands. A great deal has been said
of the defences and of the position of Bunker's-
hill. It is not possible to conceive a redoubt better
situated for an assault than the little mound of
earth in question. It could be approached within
a short distance with perfect impunity, and might
easily be turned. It was approached in this
manner, and it was turned. As to the rail fences
on the level land beneath, where much of the
combat was fought, and where the British were
twice repulsed with terrible loss, the defences
were rather ideal than positive. Now, against
this force, and thus posted, the English general

LOSSES OF WATERLOO AND BUNKEr's HILL. 303

directed 3,00C of his best troops. His attack was
supported by field artillery, by the fire of a heavy
battery on an adjacent height, and by that of
several vessels of w^ar. The Americans were
incapable of making any movements to profit by
the trifling advantages their position did aftbrd,
and they had no artillery. They merely remained
stationary to await the assault, relying solely on
that quality of moral firmness, and on that aptitude
which it i^ the object of this statement to eluci-
date by a comparison of the results of this combat
with the results of Waterloo. The English made
three different attacks. Their average continuance
under the fire of the Americans was less than
fifteen minutes. Their loss was certainly 1,056
men, and possibly more, for it is not probable
that their general would be fond, under the pe-
culiar circumstances, of proclaiming its full
extent. Here, then, assuming our data to be
true, (and that they are substantially so I fully
believe,) we have a greater comparative loss pro-
duced by 2,500 husbandmen, armed solely with
muskets, in forty -five minutes, than was produced
by all the reiterated and bloody attacks at Water-
loo. After making the necessary deductions for
the diiFerence in effect between great and small
numbers, it will be found thrt there is something
peculiar in the destruction occasioned by the
peaceful citizens of this country. I should not
have drawn this comparison, if it were not to de-

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REASONS FOR APTITUDE OF THE PEOPLE.

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inonstrate what I believe to be one of the ine-
vitable consequences of the general dissemination
of thought in a people. The same directness of
application is observable in the manner that the
American handles his arms, as in handling his
plough. The battles of this country, both by
sea and land, when there has been sufficient in-
ducement to make their undisciplined bodies fight
at all, have always been distinguished for their
destruction. Many of their officers have been so
conscious of the fatal effects of their own fire as
to have implored their men (militia) to give but
two or three discharges, and they would answer
for the victory with their heads. No doubt they
often failed in their entreaties, for the history of
their wars are full of frank and manly acknow-
ledgments of cases in which the militia yielded to
the "force of nature ; but it is also full of instances
in which their eloquence or influence had more
effect, and these have always proved fatally de-
structive to their enemies. The battle of New
Orleans will furnish a subject for a similar com-
parison.

There is another point of view, in which it is
consolatory to study the short military history of
this country. The states of New England, in
which information has been so generally diffused,
have always been the most dangerous to assail.
A powerful force (for the times and the duty) was,
in the war of 1775, early driven disgracefully from

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QUALITY OF TROOPS M'HEX DISCIPLINED. 305

their soil by the people of New England. It is
true, rapid, predatory excursions were afterwards
made in the country, but always under the pro-
tection of a superior naval force, and with the
most jealous watchfulness of detention. The only
time that an army of any magnitude was trusted
to mancEUvre near their borders for a campaign,
it was assailed, surrounded, and captured. Such
are the fruits of intelligence, disseminated among
a people, that, while it adds to all their sources of
enjoyment, it gives a double security to their pos-
session.

It would be vain to deny the excellence of the
American troops when properly equipped and
disciplined. If the English soldiers are admitted
to be as good as common, the Americans are
equal to the best. I have examined with deep
interest the annals of both their wars, and I can
find but a solitary instance in which (other things
being equal) their disciplined troops have been
defeated in open combat. • Their generals have
often been out-manoeuvred and deservedly dis-
graced ; but their disciplined soldiers, when fairly
engaged, have, except in the case named (Hob-
kirk's- hill), invariably done well. The instances in
which drilled soldiers have been left to their own
efforts, are certainly rare, compared to those in
which they have been blended with nominal regu-
lars and militia ; but they are sufficiently numerous
to show the qualities of the troops. I refer you to the

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306

A UEKEREN'CK TO KORMEU iiATTLES.

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affairs of Cowpens, Eutaw, and to the whole war of
the south, under Greene, which was almost all the
service that was exclusively done with drilled
men in the revolution, and to the battles on the Nia-
gara, during the late war. There are also many
instances in which the regular troops (drilled men)
did excellent service, in battles where they were
defeated in consequence of being too few to turn
the fate of the day.

It is another evidence of the effects of general
intelligence that, disciplined or not, the Americans
are always formidable when entrenched. They
have been surprised (not as often, perhaps, as they
have surprised), taken by siege, though rarely,
and frequently disgraced by the want of ability in
their chiefs, but seldom carried by open assault.
Indeed, I can find but one instance of the latter
(if Bunker's-hill be excepted, where they re-
treated for want of ammunition, after repelling
the British as long as they had it), in a case of
any importance, and in that the assault partook
of the nature of a surprise (Fort Montgomery).
There are fifty instances, on the contrary, in which
they have given their foes a rough reception, both
against attacks by land and by sea. Bunker's-hill
was certainly a victory, while the means of re-
sistance lasted. To these may be added, the
affairs of New Orleans, Fort Mifflin, Fort Moul-
tries, Candusky, Red Bank, Tiger River, Fort Erie,
and numberless others.

PRESENT DISPOSITION OF THE COUNTUV. 307

With this brief review of their mil'tary charac-
ter, which does not stand as high as it deserves,
merely because there has been a sad dearth of
efficient leaders, capable of conducting operations
on a concerted and extensive scale, I think you
will agree with me that the Americans are not in
much danger of being the victims of a conquest.
They turn the idea themselves into high ridi-
cule. Some of them go so far as to assert, that
Europe, united, could not subdue a people so
remote, so free, and protected by so many na-
tural advantages. It is very certain, that what-
ever Europe might do now, she could not over-
turn this republic, if it shall remain united, fifty
years hence. ' -^

The Americans seem quite determined thit a
future war shall not find them so entirely without
preparation as the last. In the great concerns of
the day, few of us, in Europe, had time or incli-
nation to lend our attention to the details of that
war ; and with the exception of the actors, and
perhaps a few of the leading events, little is known
of it, even by the English who were parties to the
struggle. As I intend to close this chapter with
a brief account of the present military system of
the United Slates, it may be well to revert to the
means they employed in their two former con-
tests.

The insurrection of 1 775, was commenced under
every military disadvantage. It is a well known

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fact that Washington kept the British army
beleaguered in Boston, with an undisciplined force
not always numerically superior, and which was
for a long period so destitute of ammunition, that
it could not have maintained a sharp conflict of
half an hour. Yet the high resolution of this
people supported them in the field, not as an
enthusiastic and momentarily excited mob, but as
grave and thoughtful men, intently bent on their
object, and who knew how to assume such an
aspect of order and method, in the midst of all
their wants, as should and did impose on their
skilful and brave enemies. Some minute calcu-
lations may be useful in furnishing a correct
opinion of that contest, and, of course, in enabling
us to judge of the effects which intelligence (the
distinctive property of the American community)
has on the military character of a nation.

In the year 1790, there were in the United
States 814,000 white males over the age of sixteen
(fractions are excluded). It is known that the
population of the country has doubled in about
twenty-three years. This calculation should give
407,000 of the same description of males, in the
year 1767 ; or about 600,000 in the year 1779,
which was the epoch when the final issue of the
revolution might be said to have been decided
by the capture of Burgoyne. If we deduct for
age, physical disabilities, religious scruples, (as
among the Quakers,) and disaffection to the cause.

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100,000, a number probably greatly within the
truth, we shall have half a million of men capable
of bearing arms, to resist the power of Britain. I
am sensible that this enumeration rather exceeds
than falls short of the truth. England employed,
at one time, not less than fifty thousand soldiers
to reduce the revolted colonies, and she was in
possession of all the strong holds of the country,
at the commencement of the contest. The half
million, badly armed, without supplies, discipline,
money, or scarcely any other requisite but reso-
lution, were scattered over a wide surface, a fact
which, though, with their intelligence, and deter-
mination, it was favourable to their success, without
it would have assured their defeat in detail. The
formidable army of their enemies was sustained by
the presence of powerful fleets ; was led by experi-
enced generals, and alvays fought bravely, and
with perfect good will. Yet what was it able to
perform ? From New England, the only portion
of the whole country where a tolerable dense
population existed, a great force was early ex-
pelled in disgrace. A few cities on the sea coast
were held by strong garrisons, which rarely ven-
tured out with success. The only great expedition
attempted in the north, was signally defeated.
In the middle districts, marches of one or two
hundred miles were made, it is true, and several
battles were fought, commonly to the advantage
of discipline and numbers -, but in the only instance

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luiicfc: TO sruDUE the colomls.

where an extended chain of communication was
attempted, it was destroyed by the vigour of
Washington. In the south, a scattered population,
and the presence of slaves, allowed a temporary,
but a treacherous success. Reverses soon fol-
lowed ; the conquered territory was regained, and
triumph ensued. This is a summary of the out-
line of that war. If to the soldiers, be added the
seamen of the fleet, a species of force nearly, or
quite, as useful in such a war as the troops, there
could scarcely be less than 80,000 men employed
in endeavouring to reduce the malcontents. When
the magnitude of the stake, and the power of
Britain be considered, this number will scarcely
appear sufficient. Here, then, admitting these
estimates to be just, you have a regular, combined
and disciplined force of 80,000 men, aided by
large bodies of the disaffected to th6 American
cause, contending against an unpro^^ided, scat-
tered, population of half a million of males, who
had to resist to till their land, and to discharge all
the customary obligations of society. The aid of the
French was certainly of great use to shorten the
conflict ; but the men who had gone through the
dark period of 1776, '77, and '78, and who had
cleared the southern and eastern states, by their
own exertions, were not likely to submit to a power
they had so often baflled.

In the war of 1812, the country was much
better provided^ though still miserably defective

liAD I'OLICY PUUSUtD IN 1812.

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in military preparation, and in scientific know-
ledge. The whole population was about 8,000,000,
and, though joined as one man on the subject of
independence, and the maintenance of territory,
nearly equally divided on the question of the
policy of the war. A capital blunder was com-
mitted at the very commencement of the struggle.
Instead of placing young and talented men at the
head of the armies, officers of the revolution were
sought for to fill those situations. The Greenes the
Waynes, the Lincolns, Knoxes, &c. of that war had
followed, or preceded, their great chief to the tomb,
and few or none were left, of sufficient distinction,
to yield a pledge for their future usefulness. The
very fact tli; . a man had served in a revolution
without tclaty should have been prima facie evi-
dence of his incapacity. Still, ancient officers,
who had commanded regiments, or battalions, in
the war of 1 770, were thought preferable to those
who had acquired their information in studying
the more modern tactics. The result proved as
might be expected. Not a single officer of the old
school (one excepted) did any thing to justify his
appointment, while several of them infiicted heavy
disgraces on the arms of the country. The ex-
ception was general Jackson, who was far too
young to have arrived at eminence in the revolu-
tion, and who gained his renown by departing
from the Fabian policy of that struggle, instead
of pursuing it.

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OUTLINE OF THE WAR OF 1812.

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The last war commenced in the middle of 1812,
and terminated at the commencement of 1815.
With the usual exceptions of personal enterprise
and courage, the two first campaigns were dis-
graceful, expensive, and unmilitary. But time was
already be<rinning to correct the blunders of a fatal
prejudice, or rather fatal partiality. Men of cha-
racter and talents forced themselves into notice ;
and although there existed, in the conceptions of
the manner in which the war was to be conducted,
a most lamentable impotency in the cabinet, the
campaign of 1814 was brilliant in achievement.
With the solitary exception of a rapid expe-
dition to Washington, through a barren and nearly
uninhabited country, the English were not suc-
cessful in a single attempt of any importance.
Four bloody affairs were fought on the Niagara, to
the advantage of the Americans ; formidable in-
vasions on the north and on the south were success-
fully, and, in one instance, brilliantly repelled ;
and, in fine, the troops of the confederation, better
drilled, and better led, began to exhibit some of
the finest qualities of first rate soldiers. There is
no doubt that England nobly maintained her co-
lonies, which, of necessity, became the disputed
point in such a war; but it is just as true, that so
soon as, encouraged by finding herself unexpect-
edly released from her great European struggle,
she attempted conquest in her turn, that she was
quite as signally foiled. ^ ."

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MILITARY POWER 01- THE COUNTRY

313

Another quarter of a century may be necessary
to raise the United States to the importance of a
first rate power, in the European sense. At the
end of that time, their population will be about
25,000,000, which, though not compact, according
to our ideas, will be sufficiently available for all
military purposes, by means of the extraordinary
facilities of intercommunication that already
exist, and are hourly increasing in the country. I
think, before that period arrives, the republic
will be felt as a military (or, more properly, a
naval) power, in the affairs of Christendom. What
she will become before the end of the century
must depend more on herself, than on any thing
the rest of the world can do to forward, or to
retard, the result.

The present military condition of the United
States, though far from imposing, is altogether
more respectable than it has ever before been.
One who is accustomed to see kings manoeuvre
large bodies of household troops as their ordinary
play things, might smile to be told that the whole
army of this great republic contains but 6,000
men. The Bourbons seldom lie down, dear
Count, without as strong a force to watch their
slumbers. But he who estimates the power of
this people to injure, or to resist, by the number
of its regular troops, makes a miserable blunder.
The habit of discipline and the knowledge of mili-
tary details are kept alive by the practice of this

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THE REGULAR ARMY, ETC.

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small force. They are chiefly employed on the wes-
tern frontier, or they garrison, by companies, the
posts on the sea board. They answer all the objects
of preserving order on the one, and of guarding the
public property in the other. But the vast im-
provement of the country is in the progress, and
in the gradual diffusion of professional knowledge.
All the subordinate ranks in this little army are
filled by young men, who have received rigid mi-
litary educations, tempered by a morality, and a
deference to the institutions of the land, that are
elsewhere little cultivated, and which tend to
elevate the profession, by readering a soldier
strictly the support, and not the master of the

community.

It is not probable that the jealousy of the Ame-
ricans will ever admit of the employment of a very
large regular force in time of peace. They prefer
trusting to the care of armed citizens. Though the
militia never can be, compared with its numbers,
as formidable as disciplined troops, it is certainly
sufficient to maintain order, and to resist invasion.
With respect to the two latter objects, you may pos-
sibly believe that America is peculiarly favoured
by her geographical situation. It is scarcely
fair for governments to refuse to give a population
the necessary degree of intelligence, and then to
say it will be dangerous to entrust them with
arms. We know that a child may do mischief
with a weapon, but we also know that Nature has

INFLUENCE OF GENERAL INTELi.KiENCE. 315

decreed that the time shall come when they may
be made highly useful to him. For my part, I
firmly believe, that if Europe would put the
school-book into one hand, the other might be
safely trusted with the musket. It is commonly
the interest of the vast majority in every nation
to preserve order ; and they will certainly do it
best, if the means are freely furnished. When
the interests of the majority are in favour of a
change, there is something very like true wisdom
and justice in permitting it. Fancy, for a moment,
twelve or fifteen millions, resembling the popula-
tion of New England, in possession of a sufficient
territory in the heart of Europe, every man with a
musket, a reasonable supply of military munitions
in readiness, and a moderate, disciplined force
to furnish the nucleus of a regular army. What
nation could hope to invade them with success ?
It is very true that the king of Prussia, now, is
probably more dangerous to his neighbours than
he would be at the head of such a nation ; but a
good deal of the truth of all these questions lies
in the fact, whether a nation is anv the better
for being externally so very formidable. Three
or four communities, intelligent, content with
their condition, and entrusted with arms, lik6 the
Americans, properly dispersed over the surface of
Europe, would be sufficient to insure the tranquil-
lity of one quarter of the globe of themseives.
It is odd enough, that the world should have been

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316

THE BALANCE OF POWEIl.

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contending so long about the balance of power,
without hitting on the cheapest mode of effecting
it. Ink costs far less than gunpowder ; and no
reasonable man can doubt that, if properly ex-
pended, it would go farther, in one generation, to
establish the natural and useful boundaries of
nations, than rivers of blood. It is not a century
since the fate of the British empire was decided
by less than twenty thousand soldiers. It became
Protestant, when it might have been Catholic.
Here was a balance of power, so far as England
and her dependencies were concerned, settled by a
handful of men. It would require Europe united
:"» do the same thing over again, and all because
new generations have acquired more liberal ideas
of their natural rights. And yet England is far, in
this particular, very far, from what she might be.
Even this country has still a great deal to do in
advancing the mighty work of education.

We have an obstinate habit of insisting that,
though America is prospering with all her freedom
and economy, that her system would be fatal to
any European nation. I once ventured to assert
this position to my travelling friend, who met my
opinion by bluntly asking — '* How do you know
it ? In what age, or in what country did you
ever try the experiment? I grant that certain
desperate political adventures have been at-
tempted, in which a few good men have joined a
great many bad ones, in overturning governments.

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FREE PKOPr.E MOST OF IF ICUr.T TO COXQUEH. 317

and that the mockery of liberty has been assumed
by the latter, until it suited their convenience to
throw aside the mask, and then tyranny has suc-
ceeded to the temporary deception, as a perfect
matter of course. But so far as the experience
of Europe goes, and considering' the question
altogether in a mihlary point of view, I think it
will be found that the freest nations have, cccteris
paribus, always been found the most difficult to
conquer. I ri.ight quote Scotland, Holland, and
Switzerland, m favour of this theory. You will
say, perhaps, that the first and the last were more
indebted for their independence to their peculiar
condition and poverty than to any actual politi-
cal institutions, more particularly the former.
Granted. And yet you find that it is only neces-
sary to make a man feel a direct interest in
preserving his actual condition to make him reso-
lute in defending it. One would think there was
far less to fight for in the hills of Scotland, than in
the plains of Italy ; and yet Italy has been overrun
a hundred times by invaders, and Scotland never.
But you think the hills and the fastnesses com-
posed the strength of Scotland and Wales. No
doubt they added ; but will any man accuse the
Netherlands, particularly Holland, of being a
mountainous country? Do you think Napoleon
would have ventured to march his vast army into
a country so remote from France as Russia, had
the latter been peopled with 20,000,000 of Ameri-

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318 fri:k people most difucult to conquek.

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cans, and had even the climate been as temperate
as that of Paris. What were the facts in similar in-
vasions, though certainly on a greatly lessened
scale ? Ten or twelve thousand yeomen, inter-
mingled wiia a few regular troops, who were
animated by the same spirit, intercepted and
destroyed Burgoyne, at the head of ten thousand
regulars, who were quite as good troops as any in
the imperial guard. Prevost, at the head of an
admirable force of many thousand men, who had
been fighting the best battles of Europe, was
checked by a handful of countrymen, and would
have shared the fate of Burgoyne near the same
spot, had he not been timely admonished to make
a disgraceful retreat, by the fortune of his prede-
cessor. Jackson, with some five or six thousand
Tenesseans, Kentuckians, and Louisianians, did
not even permit his enemy to involve himself in
the difficulties of a distant retreat. The situation
of a wealthy city required that the spirit of these
freemen should be shown in its front ; and well did
they make it known. A similar fate would have
attended the excursion to Washington, had time
been given for arrangement, and the collection of
a force sufficient for the object. But the expe-
rience of even the most despotic governments
goes to show how much more formidable they
become, when each man is made to believe it is
his interest to resist aggression."

But the Americans appear sensible, that while

PRESENT MILITARY CONDITIOX OF THE l. S. 319

the irresistible force of every nation exists in
giving all of its citizens the deepest possible
interest in its w^elfare, they do not neglect such
rational means of rendering their numbers as ef-
fective as may be, without rendering the system of
defence unnecessarily burthensome. There c^n be
no doubt, that in this respect at least the republic
is greatly favoured by its geographical position.
Removed from all the ordinary dangers of exter-
nal aggression, the country is able to advance in
its career of improvement, with the freedom of a
child, whose limbs are permitted to grow, and
whose chest expands, unshackled by the vicious
effects of swaddlings, or any other artificial
correctives.

Compared with its state in 1812, the present
military condition of the United States presents
the following points of difference. Instead of
possessing a few indifferently educated graduates
of an infant military school, it has now hundreds,
who have long enjoyed the advantages of far
higher instruction. The corps of engineers, in
particular, is rapidly iinproving, and is already
exceedingly respectable, A system of order and
exactitude has been introduced into the police
and commissariat of the army, which will serve to
render any future force doubly effective, and
which may be readily extended to meet the exi-
gencies of the largest armies. Formidable for-
tresses have been erected, or are in progress of

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320

PllESKNT MIMTAllV HESOURCKS.

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erection, which will give security to most of the
coast, and protection to the commerce of the
country. By the aid of canals and great roads,
armies on the frontiers can now be supplied at one-
sixth of the former cost, and in half the time. Arms,
artillery, and all the munitions of war, woollen and
cotton clothing, in short, the whole materiel of an
army, could now be furnished in the country at a
reasonable cost; whereas, as late as 1812, the
Americans were so entirely dependent on their
enemy for a supply, that regiments were absolutely
unable to march for want of so simple an article
as blankets. The population has advanced from 8'
to 12,000,000, and the revenue in even a greater
proportion. The debt is in about the same ratio to
the inhabitants as before the war ; but as the ex-
penditures are not increased in the proportion of
the revenue, it is in the course of rapid extin-
guishment. A very few years more of peace will
effect this desirable object.*

It is a mistaken idea that the Americans are a
people so much engaged in commerce as to be
indifferent to the nicer points of national honour
and military renown. It is far more true to de-
scribe them as a people who have hitherto been
removed from the temptation of aggression, and
in whom the native principles of justice have, in
consequence, never been weakened. One hears

* The average amount of customs for ten years before the war, a
little exceeded 12,000,000 of dollars a year; it may now be stated
at about 20,000,000.

SENSITIVENESS OF THE POPULATION.

321

a great deal in France, among the upper classes,
of the French honour, and in England of British
character, &c. &c. ; but neither of these nations
has ever manifested one half the jealous watch-
fulness of their rights as these simple republicans.
They dared the war of their independence in the
maintenance of a perfectly abstract principle, for
no one pretends that the taxation of England was
oppressive in fact, and at this hour it becomes
very necessary for the graver heads of the nation
to temper the public mind at the smallest rumour
of any assault on their dignity or national charac-
ter. The politicians are moderate, because they
see that aggression bears an aspect with them dif-
ferent from that which it assumes towards other
people. An aggression by England, for instance,
on America, is much like an insult offered by a man
to a boy. The latter may bear it, because he can say
to himself, the other will not dare to repeat it next
year. Thus the American politician reasons, or
rather has reasoned, that time is all-important to
them. Nations do not often go to war for indem-
nity, but to maintain established rights by showing
spirit and force, or for conquest. Conquest the
Americans do not ncjd, and there is no fear of in-
juries growing into precedent against a people who
are rich, out of debt, free, intelligent, intrinsically
brave, however prudent they may be, and who in
fifty years will number 50,000,000! I think,
however, that the spirit of the people rather runs

VOL. I.

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1' 1 1 K I II V II !•: S E N T A TT rr U I) F, .

ahead of their actual force, than otherwise. Per-
haps their revolution was twenty years too soon ;
and now, though lovers of peace, and frequently
leligiously indisposed to war, it is quite easy to
see that they chafe, to a man, at the idea of
any invasion on what they deem their natural
rights.

It may serve to give you an idea of the different
attitude which this country takes in 1825, from
what it maintained in 1812, by stating two facts.
It is well known that thousands of their citizens
were impressed, with impunity, into the British
navy before the latter period. There was a false
rumour the other day, that a similar act had oc-
curred on the coast of Africa. I heard but one
opinion on the subject. " We must have expla-
nation and justice without delay." Cadwallader
says, that he can hardly imagine a case in which
two or three impressments (unless subject to clear
explanations) would not now produce a war. The
rumour, that England was to become mistress of
Cuba, has also been circulated during my visit.
I have sought opportunities to demand the con-
sequences. The answer has been, at least five
times in six, " war."

It is not difficult to see, that the day is at hand
when this republic will be felt in the great general
political questions of Christendom. It may then
be fortunate for humanity, that the mighty power
she will shortly wield, is not to be exercised to

AMERICA A PFACEFUL COUNTRY.

323

satisfy the ambition of individuals, but that they
who will have to bear the burthen of the contests,
will also have a direct influence on their exist-
ence. Neither the institutions, nor the necessi-
ties of America, are ominous of a thirst for con-
quest ; but, with her widely-spread commerce, it
will be impossible to avoid frequent and keen
collisions with other nations. I think, for a long
time to come, that her armies will be chiefly con-
fined to the defensive, but another and a very
different question presents itself when we turn
our attention towards her fleets.

■ 1?

TO SIR EDWARD WALLER, BART.

New York,

After having ascended the Hudson as far as
Albany, in company with La Fayette, and taken
our leave of the veteran, our faces were turned
west. At that place we saw a few remaining evi-
dences of the Dutch, in the names and in the
construction of a good many houses, but the city
(containing about 16,000 inhabitants) is chiefly
modern. Our route, for sixty or seventy miles,
was along one of the great thoroughfares of the
interior, when we inclined to the south, and having

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324 l)F.SCUII»TION 01 A TOUlt WESTWARP.

traversed a considerable tract of country to the
southward of the beaten track of travellers, we
entered the state of Pennsylvania, west of the
Susquehannah, and proceeded to Pittsburgh.
Thence we descended the Alleghany river to the
Ohio, made a wide circuit in the state of the same
name, and returned, by the way of Lake Erie, to
Buffalo (in New York), which is a thriving fresh-
water lake-port. We spent, of course, a few days
examining the mighty cataract of Niagara, and
in visiting the shores of Lake Ontario. On our
return east, we followed the line of the great
canal as far as Utica, where we made a diversion
towards the north, for a couple of hundred miles,
in order to permit Cadwallader to visit an estate
of which he is proprietor. This duty performed,
we made our way along the skirts of a wild and
nearly uninhabited region, to the famous watering
places at Saratoga and Ballstown ; passed the
Hudson at Troy, and crossing a spur of the green
mountains, penetrated Massachusetts by its west-
ern border ; traversed a small portion of Connec-
ticut in a new direction ; re-entered New York
above the Highlands, through which we journeyed
by land, and regained this city, after an absence
of about six weeks. We must have travelled, by
land and water, between twelve and fifteen hun-
dred miles.

The three states named, are computed to cover
a surface of about 131,000 square miles ; being a

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NOTK OF THK POPIJI.ATION IN TIIRKK STATtS. 325

little larger than the two islands of Great Britain
and Ireland united. Their population, at the
present time, must be something short of four
millions.* If we fix it at 3,800,000, which is
probably near the truth, it will leave rather more
than twenty souls to the square mile. This is
perhaps a little short of the rate of the population
of Russia in Europe, and more than one half
greater than that of the kingdom of S^-oden,
exclusive of Norway. But the same remark is
applicable to those states, as that which has already
been made of New England. There is a vast
district in the northern portion of New York,
which is not, nor probably will not, for ages, be
inhabited, except by a few hunters and lumber-
men.! I^ must, however, be remembered, that
these states possess two second-rate towns — New
York and Philadelphia : the former of which con-

* In 1820, the population of these three states, by the general
census, was 3,003,614. But state censuses have since been taken
in several of the states. The Government of the United States
causes a census to be taken once in ten years, commencing with
the year 1790. By this estimate the Representatives for Congress
are apportioned. When the states cause the intermediate census to
be taken, it is to answer the objects of their internal policy. The
representatives for the state legislative bodies are frequently altered
to meet the results. The census of 1820gave New York 1,372,812
inhabitants that of 1825, 1,616,000 ;the increase has been greatest,
however, in the newer state of Ohio, which has nearly doubled its
population in the few intervening years.

t Men who fell the trees, and convert them into the various ob-
jects of use, such as staves, shingles, &c.

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326' GENERAL AIR OF THIS PORTION OF COUNTRY.

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tains 200,000, and the latter 150,000 inhabitants.*
That portion of Nevv York and Pennsylvania
which lie in their eastern sections, have an air of
populousness about equal to that already described
as belonging to New England. The same ap-
pearances are preserved by travelling on many of
the great routes to the ir^erior, and there are
numberless counties, especially in New York, ex-
tendmg from its centre very nearly to its western
border, which not only appear, but which in truth
are more populous than many of the older dis-
tricts. After having left the Hudson some fifty or
sixty miles, the most material points of difference
between the external aspect of New England and of
these states, are in the newness and freshness of the
buildings, orchards, &c. &c., and in the greater
recurrence of forest, or of comparatively half-
formed establishments, in the latter than in the
former. You will always remember that the Ame-
rican, in seeking a spot for his establishment, has
great scope for his election ; and that, in conse-
quence, he invariably seeks the more fertile lands,
or such spots as afford desirable facilities for com-
merce or manufactures. Thus, vallies are occu-
pied in succession frequently for a hundred miles,
while the crests of the mountains are left in the
fortst; the fields of the husbandman gradually
climbing their sides, as his growing riches or
greater necessities shall tempt him to apply the

* 182S.

HABITS OF SETTLERS. EUROPEAN BLUNDERS. 327

axe. Some of the best of the land, and many of the
best agriculturists, however, are often found on
the summits of hills of a few hundred feet in eleva-
tion. I think it is rather a peculiarity in American
scenery that the mountains are, in common, less
abrupt, and more easily to be tilled than with us.
This is a circumstance which adds to their use-
fulness what it subtracts from their beauty. But
where such a variety of natural formation, no less
than of artificial improvement, exists in a country,
it is not easy to convey very accurate ideas of its
appearance in a few words. The exceptions are
so numerous as to confound the images. You
will know how to make the proper allowances for
my imperfect descriptions, and I shall therefore
pursue them, in the confidence that I am addresr-
ing a man who will not believe that a bear is to
be seen in a dwelling, because he was told one
was met in a forest at no great distance from the
place where it stands. This confusion of ideas is
the blunder of Europeans in picturing their images
of American scenery as well as of republican
manners. They hear of churches, academies,
wild beasts, savages, beautiful women, steam-
boats, and ships ; and, by means of a very super-
ficial process, I am satisfied that nine in ten con-
tract opinions which bring wolf, beauty, churches,
and sLvti/-gun frigates in strange and fantastic
collision. Now, when one is in a thriving settle-
ment, or succession of settlements, in what is

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tri

328 SAVAGES UNKNOWN IN THE OLDER PARTS.

1 1

called the new country (and they are seen by
thousands every where), the only difference be-
tween the aspect of things here and in Europe,
is in the freshness of objects, the absence of
ancient monuments, the ordinary national differ-
ences in usages and arrangement, an air of life
and business, always in favour of America, and a
few peculiarities which blend the conveniencies
of civilized life with the remains of the wilder-
ness, in a manner that I shall shortly attempt to
describe.

Once for all, dear Waller, I wish you to under-
stand that — a few peaceable and half-civilized
remains of tribes, that have been permitted to
reclaim small portions of land excepted — an inha-
bitant of New York is actually as far removed from
a savage as an inhabitant of London. The former
has to traverse many hundred leagues of territory
to enjoy even the sight of an Indian, in a tolerably
wild condition ; and the latter may obtain a
similar gratification at about the same expense of
time and distance, by crossing the ocean to La-
brador. A few degraded descendants of the
ancient warlike possessors of this country are in-
deed seen wandering among the settlements, but
the Indian must now be chiefly sought west of
the Mississippi, to be found in any of his savage
grandeur.

Cases do occur, beyond a doubt, in which
luckless individuals are induced to make their .

^.1

THE PROGRESS OF A SETTLEMENT.

329

settlement in some unpropitious spot where the
current of emigration obstinately refuses to run.
These subjects of an unfortunate speculation are
left to struggle for years in a condition between
rude civilization, and one approaching to that of
the hunter, or to abandon their possessions, and
to seek a happier section of the country. Nine
times in ten the latter course is adopted. But
when this tide of emigration has set steadily
towards any favoured point for a reasonable time,
it is absurd to seek for any vestige of a barbarous
life among the people. The emigrants carry with
them (I now speak of those parts of the country
I have seen) the wants, the habits and the insti-
tutions of an advanced state of society. The
shop of the artizan is reared simultaneously with
the rude dwelling of the farmer. The trunks of
trees, piled on each other, serve for both for a few
years, and then succeed dwellings of wood, in a
taste, magnitude, and comfort, that are utterly
unknown to men of similar means in any other
quarter of the world, which it has yet been my
lot to visit. The little school-house is shortly
erected at some convenient point, and a tavern, a
store, (the American term for a shop of all sales,)
with a few tenements occupied by mechanics,
soon indicate the spot for a church, and the site of
the future village. From fifty or a hundred of
these centres of exertion, spread swarms that in a
few years shall convert mazes of dark forests into

" r!

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330 MIXTURE OF CIVILIZATION WITH NATURE.

r i

|| i

populous, wealthy and industrious counties. The
manufactures of Europe, of the Indies, and of
China, are seen exposed for sale, by the side of
the coarse products of the country ; and the same
individual who vends the axe to fell the adjoining
forest, can lay before your eyes a very tolerable
specimen of Lyons' silk, of English broad cloth,
of Nankins, of teas, of coifees, or indeed of most
of the more common luxuries of life. The num-
ber and quality of the latter increase with the
growth of the establishment ; and it is not too
much to say, that an American village store, in a
thriving part of the country, where the settle-
ments are of twenty years' standing, can com-
monly supply as good an assortment of the
mr.nufactures of Europe, as a collection of shops
in any European country town; and, if the
general nature of their stock be considered,
embracing, as it does, some of the products of all
countries, one much j^reater.

As to wild beasts, savages, &c. &c. &c., they
have no existence in these regions. A solitary
bear, or panther, or even a wolf, wandering near
the flocks of a country twenty years old, has an
effect like that produced by an invasion. In the
earlier days of the settlement, it is a task to chase
the ravenous beasts from the neighbourhood. A
price is offered for their heads, and for a time a
mutual destruction against the flocks on one side,
and the beasts on the other, is the consequence.

DISAPPEARANCE OF THE WILD BEASTS. 331

[ tS'l

In a year or two this task is reduc d to an occa-
sional duty. In a few more, it is sought as an
amusement : and ere the twenty years expire, the
appearance of a wolf among the American farms
is far less common than on the most ancient
plains of certain parts of France. Every man has
his rifle or his musket ; and every man not only
knows how, but he is fond of using them against
such foes. Thus, you see, though wild beasts may
be permitted, like Raphael's Seraphim, to encircle
your pictures of American manners in faint relief,
they must rarely indeed be permitted to enter
into the action of the piece ; more especially if the
scene be laid in any of the settled portions of the
three states that form the subject of this lett')r.

We made part of this excursion in the public
stages, part with hired horses, and part in steam-
boats. It is impossible to enter on a description
of the surface of the country we saw, for it in-
cluded mountains, vallies, and vast plains, inter-
mingled in such a manner as to render the task
wearisome. We had got about fifty miles west
of Albany, when my companion desired the ve-
hicle to stop, and invited me to mount a gentle
ascent on foot. On reaching the summit he turned
and pointed to a view which resembled none I
had ever before witnessed.

We were travelling along the termination of a
range of mountains, which, running north and
south, fell gracefully away, in the former direc-

*''i. ;^ .i

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332

AN AMERICAN INLAND VIEW.

■4

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^- •I

tion, into what is called the valley of the Mohawk,
before they gradually rose again on the other
side of that river. The descent and the ascent
were very similar, the intervening country lying
in broken and irregular terraces, which often had
the appearance of fertile vallies, before the rich
bottoms of the river are gained. Our precise posi-
tion was on the very brow of one of the most pro-
jecting spurs of this broken range, and it admitted
of an uninterrupted prospect to the north-east,
and to the north-west, of the falling country in
our front, and of the rising hills opposite, that
could not have been contained in a circumference
of much less than two hundred miles. The view
was limited to what lav in advance of a line drawn
nearly east and west, the adjacent mountains pre-
senting obstacles to our vision, further south. It
was completely an American scene, embracing
all that admixture of civilization, and of the forest,
of the works of man, and of the reign of nature,
that one can so easily imagine to belong to this
country.

There was perhaps an equal distribution of
field and forest. The latter term is not, however,
the best, since it was a constant succession of
open land and of wood, in proportions which,
without being exactly, were surprisingly equal.
You have stood upon a height and looked down
upon a fertile French plain, over which agricul-
ture has been conducted on a scale a little larger

MINUTE OBJECTS IT CONTAINED.

333

than common. You may remember the divisions
formed by the hues of the grains of the vineyards,
and of the grasses, which give to the whole an air
so chequered and remarkable. Now, by extend-
ing the view to the size I have named, and en-
larging these chequered spots to a corresponding
scale, you get a tolerably accurate idea of what
I would describe. The dark green shadows are
produced by the foliage of a wood, reserved, per-
haps, for the use of half a dozen farms, and lying
in a body, (some common objection to culture
influencing that number of proprietors to select
adjacent ground for their reservations,) and the
fields of golden yellow, or of various shades and
hues, are produced by the open fields. The
distance diminishes the objects to the eye, and
brings the several parts so much in union, as to
lend to the whole the variegated aspect of the
sort of plain just mentioned. The natural river
which divides this glorious panorama in nearly
two equal parts, with its artificial rival,* and the
sweet meadows that border its banks, were con-
cealed beneath the brow of the last precipitous
descent. But countless farm-houses, with their
capacious out-buildings, dotted the fields, like indi-
cated spots on a crowded map. From those in the
near view rose the light vapoury summer smoke.
The fields were alive with herds, and with number-
less and nearly imperceptible white atoms, which,

* The great canal, 360 miles in length.

\w.

334

EXTENT AND CHARACTER OF THE VIEW.

i i:

but for their motion, it would not have been easy
to imagine flocks. In the distance, though these
more minute objects were lost, habitations, barns,
and pyramids of hay and of grain, could be distin-
guished, until the power of vision failed. Imme-
diately at our feet, at the distance of a few miles,
lay a wide, rich terrace, intersected with roads that
were borderp*' , a^ usual, by scattered farm build-
ings, s? nc^uiied by their granaries and barns.
Near its ^ i .. a cluster of buildings assumed the
air of a hamlet, ii^m among these roofs rose the
spire of a country church. I was told that a multi-
tude of villages lay within the limits of the view ;
but as they were generally placed near some
stream, for the advantage of its water power, the
uneven formation of the land hid them from our
sight. The eye r verlooked even the cities of Albany
and Troy, and rested, in that direction, on some of
the lesser spurs of the mountains of Vermont.

As I looked upon this scene, I felt it only
wanted the recollections and monuments of anti-
quity to give it the deepest interest. The opinion
might have escaped my lips, amid the expressions
of a sincere delight. My companion gently touched
an arm, and directed my attention from the view
to himself. He was standing at my elbow with an
open map of the country in his hand. As he met
my eye he gravely said, ** You complain of the
absence of association to give its secret, and per-
haps greatest charm which such a sight is capable

fffl

ASSOCIATIONS OF AN AMERICAN SCENE.

335

of inspiring. You complain unjustly. The moral
feeling with which a man of sentiment and know-
ledge looks upon the plains of your hemisphere,
is connected with his recollections ; here it should
be mingled with his hopes. The same effort of
the mind is as equal to the one as to the other.
Examine this map. You see our position, and you
know the space that lies between us and the sea.
Now look westward, and observe how many de-
grees of longitude, what broad reaches of territory
must be passed before you gain the limits of our
establishments, and the consequent r^ig- )f abun-
dance and civilization." Here he drCj.;,7ed t^e map ;
and I fancied he even spoke wita •'oiemnity, as

he continued — " Count de " he said, "you

see that T am a man of middle a^e : listen to
what even my short memory extends. Along
the river, which lies hid in the deep valley before
us, the labours of man have existed for more than
a century. There are one or two shallow streams
near us, along which the enterprise of the settlers
early directed itself. A few miles to the west we
shall enter a little valley, where a handful of refu-
gees from Ireland took up their abodes some eighty
years ago, and there are other insulated spots,
where solitary individuals trusted to the savage,
and raised their simple dwellings before the war
of the revolution. But that little plain, at our
feet, could have fed, and clothed, and harboured
all who were then scattered, not only over the

' • jt-8

71"

W i.

336

PROGRESS OF THE SETTLEMENTS.

parts of the country I have shown you here, but,"
sweeping his hand along the map, across states
and territories larger than those governed by most
of the European monarchs, "all of white colour,
who then inhabited these wide regions too. I
remember this country, Sir, as it existed in
my childhood ; and it is vain to say it is a land
without recollections. Draw a line from this
spot, north and south, and all of civilization that
you shall see for a thousand miles west, is what
man has done since my infancy. You exclude,
by this boundary, far more than you gain in the
meagre exceptions. That view before you is but a
fac-simile of a thousand others. I know not what
honest pleasure is to be found in recollection, that
cannot be excited by a knowledge of these facts.
These are retrospects of the past which, brief and
familiar as they are, lead the mind insensibly to
cheerful anticipations, which may penetrate into
a futurity as dim and as fanciful as any fictions the
warmest imagination can conceive of the past.
But the speculator on moral things can enjoy a
satisfaction here, that he who wanders over the
plains of Greece will seek in vain. The pleasure
of the latter, if he be wise and good, is un-
avoidably tinged with melancholy regrets ; while
here all that reason allows may be hoped for in
behalf of man. Every one in mediocrity of
circumstances has enjoyed some of that interest
which is attendant on the advancement of those

:TT

A PROSPRCT FOR THK l-l I'URE.

337

objects on which he has fastened a portion of his
affections. It may be the mpral or physical im-
provement of his child,— the embellishment of a
garden, a paddock, a park, or of the conveniences
of some town ; but, depend on it, there is no
pleasure connected with any interest of this
character that is commensurate with that we
enjoy, who have seen the birth, infancy, and
youth, and who are now about to become specta-
tors of the maturity of a whole country. We live
in the excitement of a rapid and constantly pro-
gressive condition. The impetus of society is
imparted to all its members, and we advance
because we are not accustomed to stand still.
Even the sagacious and enterprising New Eng-
landman, gets an additional impulse in such a
living current ; the descendant of the Hollander
is fast losing his phlegm ; and men of all nations,
hereditary habits and opinions, receive an onward
impulse by the constant influence of such a com-
munion. I have stood upon this identical hill,
and seen nine tenths of its smiling prospect
darkened by the shadows of the forest. You
observe what it is to-day. He who comes a
century hence, may hear the din of a city rising
from that very plain, or find his faculties con-
fused by the number and complexity of its works
of art."

Cadwallader ceased, and we re-entered the
carriage in silence. He had spoken with his

VOL. r. z

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i- !,

♦;■ M

t • ■

'i '"'

(;

338 ( HKKRY V Af.I.KY : WIIKN A KRONTI F.ll TOWN.

customary warmth and decision, but I felt that
he had spoken the truth. I began to look
around me with new eyes, and instead of seeking
subjects of exulting comparison between what I
saw here and what I had left behind me, I found
new subjects of admiration and of wonder at
every turn. You may be assured I was not so
ignorant as to forget that the first step in all
improvements is more imposing than the subse-
quent ; that to clear a country of its wood is in
itself a greater visible change than to supply the
place of the latter with the more finished accom-
paniments of civilization ; but the progress of
which I was a witness bounded itself by no such
vulgar deception.

Shortly after this detention, we entered the
village of Cherry Valley, which was the spot
named by my friend as the place originally occu-
pied by the Irish emigrants. It is a village of
perhaps a hundred dwellings, seated on a little
plain, and is remarkable for nothing, amid its
numberless, neat, spacious, and convenient sisters.
This place, now rather east of the centre of the
state, was, during the war of the rev Dlution, the
frontier settlement in this part of the United
States. At present, two thirds of the state of
New York, and the whole of the large states of
Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, lie nearly in a line due
west. It was ravaged and burnt by an incursion of
the British and Indians from Canada during the

COOPERSTOWN. KATK OK POIM I.ATION. 339

war ; and many a dreary talc is told of the bloody
incidents of that day. I was shown a dwelling
(a modern one) on whose site a whole family had
been cut off, with the exception of a lad, then
a boy at some distant school. This boy, nearly
if not the sole survivor of his race, afterwards be-
came one the most distinguished advocates of
America. He is recently dead, and is spoken of
universally in terms of admiration and esteem,*

Our route now lay, for many miles, amid moun-
tains. The scenery was always striking — some-
times wild and peculiar, at others as soft and
lovely as valleys, streams, and quiet could make
it. We passed the night at Cooperstown, the
shire or county town of Otsego. As we were
now completely off all the great routes west, and
in a part of the country that had been settled
about forty years, I profited by the opportunity to
make a few statistical inquiries that may serve
to give a tolerably accurate general idea of this
portion of the country.

The county of Otsego covers, as near as I could
ascertain, less than a thousand square miles. Its
population in 1826 was 47,000 souls. By allowing
for the increase of numbers since, the proportion
Will give rather more than fifty inhabitants to the
square mile. Cooperstown is the largest place in
the county, containing less than fifteen hundred
inhabitants, and consequently this is the rate of

* The late John Wells, of New York,
z 2

■ivijfl

-III

340

DKSCUn'TIONS IN " THE PIONEERS.

the agricultural and manufacturing population of
an entirely inland, and rather secluded portion
of the state. The village is neat, better built
even than is common in America, which is vastly
better (for villages) than any thing of the sort in
Europe. It lies on one of the smallest of those
lakes with which New York abounds.

There resided formerly near this village a gentle-
man who is the reputed author* of a series of tales,
which were,intended to elucidate the history, man-
ners, usages, and scenery of his native country.
As curiosity on American subjects has led to their
republication in Europe, you may possibly have seen
the books. One of them (the *'Pioneers") is said
to contain some pretty faithful sketches of certain
habits, and even of some individuals who were
known among the earlier settlers of this very spot.
I cannot pledge myself for the accuracy of this
opinion, nor could any one be found here who
appeared to possess sufficient information on the
subject to confirm it. But, so far as natural objects
are concerned, the descriptions are sufficiently
exact, and will fortunately save me the trouble
of repetition. My present object, however, in re-
ferring to the book, is to lead you to a peculiarity
that, I think, distinguishes not only this precise
spot, but most others, within the limits of what is

* The Americans, like the English, rarely put theirnamesto any
light works.

PECULIARITIES OF THE SCENERY.

341

called the ** new countries.''* You will find the
stumps, wild-looking and dead trees, with other
evidences of a recent origin, frequently alluded
to in the descriptions of the Pioneers. There is
certainly some difference in the duration of these
relicks of the forest, according to the durable
qualities of the original growth of timber. Still,
more or less of these rude and ungainly accom-
paniments are still to be found in two thirds of the
landscapes of these regions. The stumps of the
deciduous trees disappear in a few seasons ; but
where there have been many of a perennial growth,
a century will scarcely serve to destroy them.

You will recollect, that those descriptions of
girdled trees, of which we read in Europe, as form-
ing part of American scenery, are rather excep-
tions, than characteristic. It is a manner of im-
proving certainly much practised at the south, and
sometimes in the more northern states ; but it is far
from being either the best, or the ordinary mode
of clearing land, in any great section of the
country. The tree is commonly felled by cutting
it at such a distance from the earth, as may be
most convenient to the stature of the chopper.
The trunk is then divided into suitable lengths.

■: i\

use
it is

any

* The Americans call all that portion of their territory which has
been settled since the revolution '* new." If the state has been
created since that period, it is a *' new state ;" but Oisego, and in-
deed all of New York, is already getting, by comparison, to be
" old."

V 'ail

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. 1? IIB

342

MODE OF CLEARING LAND.

and the branches are severed, and collected. With
the exceptions of such trees as are selected for
lumber, the whole are piled in heaps of sufficient
size to ensure their consumption by fire. The
latter process is called logging. The brand is next
applied, and the whole field is subjected to a tem-
porary, but fierce action of the element. Nothing
can be more dreary and savage in aspect, than an
extensive plain, or a valley, which has thus been
completely blackened by fire. They are fre-
quent in the newer districts, but comparatively
rare in those often or fifteen years establishment.
The admixture of civilization with these wild-
looking memorials of a state of nature, is, indeed,
the chief distinctive feature between a landscape
in the newer districts of America, and one in our
own Europe. There are certainly other points
of difference, but I should describe this as the
principal a- J most striking. One can soon
become accustomed to the universal use of fences ;
to even what appears to be a prodigal waste of
wood in their construction ;* and to that air of

'xrt I

?^ '

* The American fences vary according to the quarter of the coun-
try in which they are situated. They are often well built, and even
handsome, low walls of stone. The writer saw not only farms, but
large districts, subdivided into fields of from five to fifty acres in this
manner. Next to these, are fences, of which the basements are
made! of stone, and the summits of rails. Posts and rails come
next, and are found every where in the second stage of improve-
ment. A fence that is called a " worm fence," from its being com-
posed of rails with the ends alternately laid on each other, in the

.' M i^l'Sfi

FRESH APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 343

newness and freshness which is so very striking,
in the villages, farm-houses, out-buildings, and,
indeed, everything artificial one sees. But time
and reflection are necessary to understand the
situation of a country, in which academies,
churches, towns, and, in short, most things which
an advanced state of civilization can produce, are
blended with objects that commonly mark an
infant state of society. There is no difficulty in
comprehending the growth of Petersburgh, or of
Odessa, for one sees the hand of the autocrat in
their works j but in America, all beyond that
which nature has done, is the soontaneous work
of the population. There are certainly vast tracts
of country where these coarser evidences of infancy
have already disappeared ; but they are still to be
found in many others, even in the comparatively
old establishments of the western parts of New
York, and Pennsylvania.

form of a screen, is much in use, especially where the abundance of
timber renders labour a greater object than wood. The first, and
certainly the most natural, if not the most durable, division of the
land, is by what is called the ♦• log-fence." This is formed by
laying the trunks of trees in a line, witli their ends doubling for a
couple of feet. Notches are cut in the ends of these logs, and
billets of wood are laid in them to connect the ends. The upper
sides of the billets are also notched, and they serve for the foundations
of new tiers. Three logs piled in this manner make an efficientfence.
The duration is, of course, according to the quality of the tree. Per-
haps ten years may be fixed for the average. Hedges are very
tare. Fences are sometimes made of stumps, extracted by the roots
from the carlh.

'1^.;

I'.. %

I- i

( '^44 )

TO SIR EDWARD WALLER, BART.

New York,

The day after we had quitted Cooperstown,
we saw a collection of people assembled in front of
an inn, which was the principal edifice in a ham-
let of perhaps a dozen houses. Cadwallader
told me this was the first day of the state elec-
tion, and that this spot was one of the polls, a
name which answers in some degree to the
English term, *' hustings." Fortunately, the stage
changed horses at the inn, and I had an oppor-
tunity of examining the incipient step in ihat
process which literally dictates all the national
policy of this great republic.

Although each state controls its own forms, not
only in the elections, but in every thing else, a
description of the usages ofone poll will be suffici-
ently near the truth to give a correct general idea
of them all. I now speak literally only of the
state of New York, though, generally, of the
whole Union. The elections occur once a year.*

* There is one state where they occur twice — the little state of
Rhode Island, which is still governed by the form of its ancient
Charter, as granted by Charles 11. in 1663. As this is prac-
tically the naost democratic state in the Union, it affords pretty good
evixicnce that the experiment of a democratic government is not so
new in America as some pretend.

MANNKR OF KL£C TIONS.

345

They last three days. In the lari^e towns, they
are stationary, there being no inconveDienc^ in
such an arrangement where the population is
dense, and the distances short. But in the
country they are held on each successive day at
a different place, in order to accommodate the
voters. The state is divided into counties which
cover, on an average, 900 square miles each.
Some are, however, larger, and some smaller.
These counties are again subdivided into town-
ships, covering, perhaps, eighty or ninety square
miles. There is, also, great inequality in the
size of these minor districts. These are the two
great divisions of territory for all the ordinary
purposes of government and police. The counties
have courts of their own, and a certain sort of
legislative body, which regulates many of their
financial affairs. In order that the whole subject,
however, may be rendered as clear as possible,
we will begin at the base, and ascend to the
superstructure of their government.

The most democratic assemblage known to the
laws, in which legal and binding resolutions can
be enacted, are the town meetings, ^.ny number
of the people may assemble when and where they
please, to remonstrate, to petition, or even to plot,
if they see fit ; but their acts can jnJy be recom-
mendatory. The town meetings are held annually,
and every citizen who has attained his majority
can vote. A moderator (no bad name for a

''■;I:M

';;* ■

1-;.

:l\4^

ki^l

jijk

^ill

346 FORM OK TOWN iMEETINGS .* THEIR POWDER.

9k;';

# :v i'l

11 ■ ijtj ':

perfectly popular assembly) is chosen by accla-
mation to preside. The meeting is commonly
held in some school-house, but very often in the
open air. In some places, though rarely, there
are town-houses. At these meetings, all the town
officers are chosen. They consist of a supervisor ;
three assessors, who apportion all the taxes on
the individuals, whether imposed by town,
county, state, or United States ; collectors, who
collect all the taxes, except those laid by the
United States government, which, in time of
peace, are just nothing at all ; a town-clerk, who
keeps certain registers ; constable, poor-officers,
overseers of highways, path-masters, and a few
others. The names of most of these officers indi-
cate their duties. The overseers of the highway
are the men who lay out the ordinary roads of
the town, and who say how much tax each indi-
vidual shall contribute in work or in money j and
the path-masters inspect the labour. Men of
property and education frequently seek the latter
employment. The voting in this popular assembly
may be by ballot, but it is generally done by ac-
clam'tttion. There is a penalty if an individual re-
fuse to serve, though they are sometimes excused
by the citizens, if a good reason can be rendered.
The cpui'is have also a discretionary power in im-
posing aud in laying fines. I was present during
the course of this excursion at one of these town-
meetiiigii. I'here might have been two hundred

PROCEEDINGS AT A lOWN MfcETIl^G.

347

citizens assembled before the door of a large
school-house. Much good humour was blended
with a sufficient dispatch of business. The Ameri-
cans mingle with a perfect consciousness of their
influence on the government, an admirable re-
spect for the laws and institutions of their country.
I heard jokes, and one or two open nomina-
tions of men of property and character, to fill the
humble offices of constable and pound-keeper ;
but the most perfect good sense and practical
usefulness appeared to distinguish all their deci-
sions. There was a contest for the office of super-
visor, and it was decided by a close vote. The
two candidates were present, and on seemingly
very good terms. They were respectable looking
yeomen, and he who lost told his rival that he
thought the people had shewn their judgment.
There was no noise, no drinking, nor any excite-
ment beyond that which one would feel in seeing an
ordinary foot-race. One farmer observed, that the
crows had got the taste of his corn, and unless
something was done, there could be little hope for
the year's crop. He therefore would propose that
a reward of six cents should be paid for every
dozen that should be killed, within their town, for
the next six months. The resolution was opposed
by a hatter, who insisted that he could take care
of his hats, and that the farmers ought to take
care of their corn. This logic was unsuccessful ;
the price was reduced a trifle, and the resolution

iPpilll

348 BOAllD OF SUPERVISORS, WITH ITS POWKR.

was passed. It was then just as much a law as
that which hangs a man for murder. The sum
voted to meet the expense was to be apportioned
with the other taxes, among the citizens by the
assessors, collected by the collector, received
and paid by another officer, &c. &c. After this
important act of legislation, the meeting ad-
journed.

The next body in the scale of the government
is the board of supervisors. It is composed of
the supervisors of each town in a county, who
htive a very similar legislative authority over the
more familiar interests of the county, as is pos-
sessed by their constituents in the towns them-
selves. They impose taxes for all objects con-
nected with the expenses of the county. Their
authority is, however, a good deal circumscribed ;
enactments by the state legislature being often ne-
cessary to enforce their recommendations. When
the question involves an expense heavier than
common, and its effects are entirely local, the
question is often referred to a final decision of the
people in their town meetings. This board audits
the accounts, and I believe it appoints a treasurer
for the county. So far you see the process of
government is exceedingly simple. The whole
legislative duty is discharged in three or four
days, and yet the decisions have great influence
on the comfort and property of the people. The
duties of the officers named, continue for one year,.

1.9*1

KLKCTORAI. DISTUICTS.

349

but the same incumbents are frequently continued
for a whole life, especially the collectors, trea-
surers, constables, and clerks.

Each town is also subdivided into school districts,
and road districts. There are overseers of the
schools, who regulate all that belongs to the fami-
liar duties of the common schools of the country,
to which any body may go.

Each township is also a petty electoral district
of itself, for all the ordinary purposes of the state
and the United States' elections, which are held at
the same time and place. The three stations
taken for the convenience of the elections, as
already mentioned, are selected by the inspectors
of the poll, who are five or six of the town officers,
named by law, and of course chosen annually by
the people in their original capacity. Each county
chooses its own representatives to the lower
branch of the state legislature, the number being
according to the amount of the population. The
state is again divided into what are called sena-
torial districts, composed of several contiguous
counties, each of which chooses a certain number
of representatives, who sit in the upper body of
the state legislature. Each state has a right to
send to the lower House of Congress a number
of representatives, in proportion to its entire po-
pulation. These representatives must be chosen by
the people, but the states themselves may regulate
the form. Some choose them by a general ticket ;

I ■

i yi

^ ^

1 I ll

350 MKMIJKUS OF C()\(ilU;ss, now CIIOSKN,

that is to say, each citizen votes for the whole
number ; and some choose them by districts, in
which case each citizen votes for the member, or
members, who represent his particular district.
The latter is the course adopted by New York,
and in most of the other large states, in which it
is difficult for the characters of so many indivi-
duals to be intimately known to every body.

Now, complicated as this system may seem in
words, it is perfectly simple in practice. It is
astonishing how clearly it is understood by those
who exercise it, and how difficult it is to make a
foreigner get a correct idea of its details. All
the elections, except those which are made at the
town meetings, where other duties necessarily
assemble the citizens, are held at the same time,
and at the same place. Thus an American in one
of the more populous states, can exercise all his
constitiitional rights at an expense commonly of
a ride of four or five miles at the outside, and of
three hours of time.

The election on the present occasion embraced
senators, (always for the state,) representatives
in the assembly,* governor, lieutenant-gover-
nor, &c. The inspectors were assembled in a
quiet room of the inn, with the ballot boxes placed

'J ■ i

^1' :

* The more popular branch of the State Legislature, as it is
sometimes called, though both are popular alike. The difference is
principally in the term of service, and in some little exercise of
power.

■'fi I:

V-^^T

MANNP:R or HALLOTING.

351

before them, on a table. The voters entered at
their leisure, and delivered their different ballots
to the officers, who, holding them up as lottery
numbers are usually exhibited, called the name of
the voter aloud, and then deposited the ballot in its
proper box. ** 1 challenge that vote," cr 3d an
individual, as the name of one man was thus pro-
claimed. It appeared there were doubts of its lega-
lity. An inquiry was instituted, an oath proffered
explanations were made, and the challenge was
withdrawn. The vote was then received. Any one
who votes may challenge. Nothing could be
more quiet and orderly than this meeting. A few
hand-bills were posted around the house, pro-
claiming the names, and extolling the qualities of
the different candidates, and I heard one or two
men disputing the wisdom of certain public mea-
sures, rather in irony than in heat. The election
was not, however, esteemed a warm one. and per-
haps quite one third of the people did not attend the
polls at all. Mr. Clinton, the governor, under whose
administration the canal policy, as it is called, has
been fostered, had declined a re-election, at the
expiration of the official term preceding the one
now in existence. His place had been filled by
another. In the mean time his political adversaries
profiting by a momentary possession of a legisla-
tive majority, had ventured to assail him in a man-
ner the people were not disposed to relish. He was
removed from a seat at the ' ' canal board, " a measure

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352 MR. CLINTON AVEXGKD BY THE PEOPLE.

which was undoubtedly intended to separate him,
as far as possible, from a policy that was already
conferring incalculable advantage on the state.
The instant Cadwallader was told of this ill-
advised and illiberal measure, he exclaimed, that
the political adversaries of this gentleman had
reseated him in the chair of the government.
When asked for an explanation, my friend an-
swered, that the people, though they sometimes
visited political blunders with great severity,
rarely tolerated persecution. The event has jus-
tified his predictions. Although a popular can-
didate was selected to oppose him, Mr. Clinton
has triumphed in this election by an immense ma-
jority, and, in a few days, he will become governor
of the state for another term of two years.*

After quitting the poll, we familiarly discussed
the merits and demerits of this system of popular
elections. In order to extract the opinions of my
friend, several of the more obvious and ordinary
objections were started, with a freedom that in-
duced him to speak with some seriousness.

" You see a thousand dangers in universal
suffrage," he said, ** merely because you have
been taught to think so, without ever having seen
the experiment tried. The Austrian would be
very apt to say, under the influence of mere spe-

• No voter can put in two ballots, since all are compelled to place
them in the hands of an inspector. In case two ballots are found
rolled together, both are rejected. Thus fraud is impossible.

UNJVKUSAL SUFFRA(iE.

353

culation too, that it would be fatal to government
to have any representation at all ; and a vizier of
the Grand Turk might find the mild exercise of
the laws, which is certainly practised in Austria
Proper, altogether fatal to good order. Now we
know, not from the practice of fifty years only, but
from the practice of two centuries, that it is very
possible to have both order and prosperity under
a form of government which admits of the utmost
extension of the suffrage. It is a never failing
argument on these subjects,' that American order
is owing to the morality of a simple condition of
life, and that our prosperity is incidental to our
particular geographical situation . There are many
good men, and, in other respects, wise men, even
among ourselves, who retain so much of the politi-
cal theory which pervades the literature of our
language, as to believe the same thing. For myself,
I cannot see the truth of either of these positions.
Our prosperity is owing to our intelligence, and
our intelligence to our institutions. Every discreet
man in America is deeply impressed with the im-
portance of diffusing instruction among our people,
just as many very well-meaning persons in your
hemisphere honestly enough entertain a singular
horror of the danger of school-books. Thus it is
our natural means of safety to do the very thing
which must, of necessity, have the greatest pos-
sible influence on the happiness, civilization, and
power of a nation.

VOL. r. A A

354

HKPRESENTATION OF PUOI'F.IITV.

"Tliere can be no doubt that, under a bald
theory, a representation would be all the better
if the most ignorant, profligate, and vagabond
part of the community were excluded from the
right of voting. It is just as true, that if all the
rogues and corrupt politicians, even including
those who read Latin, and have well-lined pockets,
could be refused the right of voting, honest men
would fare all the better. But as it is very well
known that the latter are not, nor cannot well be
excluded from the right of suffrage any where,
except in a despotism, we have come to the con-
clusion, that it is scarcely worth while to do so
much violence to natural justice, without sufficient
reason, as to disfranchise a man merely because he
is poor. Though a trifling qualification of property
may sometimes be useful, in particular conditions
of society, there can be no greater fallacy than its
representation. The most vehement declaimers in
favour of the justice of the representation of pro-
perty, overlook two or three very important points
of the argument. A man may be a voluntary
associate in a joint stock company, and justly have
a right to a participation in its management, in
proportion to his pecuniary interest ; but life is not
a chartered institution. Men are born with all their
wants and passions, their means of enjoyment,
and their sources of misery, without any agency of
their own, and frequently to their great discom-
fort. Now, though government is, beyond a

NATURAL PRINCIPLES OF GOVERNMENT. 365

doubt, a sort of compact, it would seem that
those who prescribe its conditions are under a
natural obligation to consult the rights of the
whole. If men, when a little better than common,
were any thing like perfect, we might hope to se«
power lodged with safety in the hands of a rea-
sonable portion of the enlightened, without any
danger of its abuse. But the experience of the
world goes to prove, that there is a tendency to
monopoly, wherever power is reposed in the hands
of a minority. Nothing is more likely to be true,
than that twenty wise men will unite in opinion in
opposition to a hundred fools; but nothing is more
certain than that, if placed in situations to control
all the interests of their less-gifted neighbours,
the chance is, that fifteen or sixteen of them
would pervert their philosophy to selfishness.
This was at least our political creed, and we
therefore admitted a vast majority of the commu-
nity to a right of voting. iSince the hour of the
revolution, the habits, opinions, laws, and I may
say principles of the Americans, are getting daily to
be more democratic. We are perfectly aware,
that while the votes of a few thousand scattered
individuals can make no great or lasting impres-
sion on the prosperity or policy of the country,
their disaffection at being excluded might give a
great deal of trouble. I do not mean to say that
the suffrage may not, in most countries, be ex-

A A 2

.!f :

i t

■■>:Fi.

I ill

ff: ■

1356 EFFKCTS OF AN EXTENDED SUFFllAGE.

tended too far. I only wish to show you that it
is nv. ♦: here.

" The theory of representation of property says,
that the man who has 'little shall not dispose of
the money of him who has more.* Now, what
say experience and common sense? It is the
man who has much that is prodigal of the public
purse. A sum that is trifling in his account, may
constitute the substance of one who is poorer.
Beyond all doubt, the government of the world,
which is most reckless of the public money, is
that in which power is the exclusive property of
the very rich ; and, beyond all doubt, the govern-
ment of the world which, compared with its
means, is infinitely the most sparing of its re-
sources, is that in which they who enact the laws
are compelled to consult the wishes of those who
have the least to bestow. It is idle to say that an
enlarged and liberal policy governs the measures
of the one, and that the other is renowned for a
narrowness which has lessened its influence and
circumscribed its prosperity. I know not, nor
care not, what men, who are dazzled with the
glitter of things, may choose to say, but I am
thoroughly convinced, from observation, that if
the advice of those who were influenced by what
is called a liberal policy, had been followed in

* When the numbers of those who have nothing, get to be so
great as to make their voices of importance, it is time to think of
some serious change.

CAUSES OF AMKUICAX IXONOMV.

357

be so
link of

our country, we should have been a poorer and,
consequently, a less important and less happy
people than at present. The relations between
political liberality, and what is called political
prodigality, are wonderfully intimate.

** We find that our government is cheaper, and
even stronger, for being popular. There is no
doubt that the jealousy of those who have little,
often induces a false economy, and that money
might frequently be saved by bidding higher for
talent. We lay no claims to perfection, but we do
say, that more good is attained in this manner
than in any other which is practised elsewhere.
We look at the aggregate of ?d vantage, and neither
our calculations nor our hopes have, as yet, been
greatly deceived.

" As to the forms of our elections, you see that
they are beyond example simple and orderly. After
an experience of near forty years, I can say that
I have never seen a blow struck, nor any
other violent proceeding, at a poll. These things
certainly do happen, but, in comparison with the
opportunities, at remarkably long intervals. So
far from the frequency of elections tending to
disturb society, they produce an exactly dif-
ferent effect. A contest which is so soon to
be repeated loses half its interest by familiarity.
Vast numbers of electors are content to be lookers-
on, rarely approaching a poll, except to vote on
some question of peculiar concern. The struggle

•i , J

''^11!

■m

,.,1i

358 GENERAL OHDER OF THE ELECTIONS.

.iir

4? M

= ;

is generally whether A or B shall enjoy the
temporary honour or the trifling emolument in
dispute, the community seldom being much the
better or the worse for the choice. People talk of
the fluctuations which are necessarily the conse-
quences of a popular government. They do not
understand what they say. Every other en-
lightened nation of the earth is at this moment
divided between great opposing principles,
whereas here, if we except the trifling col-
lisions of pecuniary interests, every body is of
the same mind, except as to the ordinarily imma-
terial question of a choice between men. We have
settled all the formidable points of policy, by
conceding every thir *hat any reasonable man
can ask. The only ger which exists to the
duration oi our confederacy (and that is not a
question of a form of government, but one of
mere policy), proceeds from the little that is
aristocratical in our Union. The concentrated
power of a state may become, hke the over-
grown power of an individual, dangerous to
our harmony, though we think, and with very
good reason, that, on the whole, even this pecu-
liarity adds to the durability of the Union.
. It is unnecessary to say, that so far as mere
convenience goes, this method of election can be
practised by a nundred millions ot people, as
easily as by twelve. As to corruption, compara-
tively speaking, it cannot exist. No man can

LXTKNDKl) CORUUPTFON I MPOSSI BLL. 359

buy a state, a county, or even a town. In a
hotly contested election it is certainly sometimes
practicable to influence votes enough to turn the
scale; but, unless the question involve the pe-
culiar interests of the less fortunate class of
society, it is clear both parties can bribe alike,
and then the evil corrects itself. If the question
be one likely to unite the interests and the pre-
judices of the humbler classe?, nine times in
ten it is both more humane and wiser that they
should prevail. That sort of splendid and
treacherous policy which gives a fallacious lustre
to a nation by oppressing those who have the
most need of support, is manifestly as unwise as
it is unjust. It violates the very principles of the
compact, since governments are not formed to
achieve, but to protect. After a sufficient force
has been obtained to effect the first great objects
of the association, the governed, and not the
governors, are the true agents in every act of
national prosperity. Look at America. What
people, or what monarch, if you will, has done
half so much as we have done, (compared to our
means,) in the last half century, and precisely for
the reason that the government is obliged to con-
tent itself with, protection, or, at the most, with
that assistance which, in the nature of things,
strictly requires a concentrated action.

" It is of far less importance, according to
our notions, what the executive of a nation

;u>()

I H r: A M i: u i c a n s a u k k f. h o u m k it s .

is called, than that all classes should have a
direct influence on its policy. We have no king,
it is true, for the word carries with it, to our ears,
an idea of expenditure ; but we have a head, who,
for the time being, has a very reasonable portion
of power. We are not jealous of him, for we have
taken good care he shall do no harm.

" Though we are glad to find that principles
which we have practised, and under which we
have prospered so long, are coming more in
fashion in Europe, 1 think you must do us the
justice to say, that we are not a nation much
addicted to the desire of proselyting. For our-
selves we have no fears, and as for other people,
if they make some faint imitations of our system,
and then felicitate themselves on their progress,
we are well content they should have all the merit
of inventors. That is a miserable rivalry which
would make a monopoly of happiness. I think,
as a people, we rather admire you most when we
see you advancing with moderation to your ob-
ject, than when we hear of the adoption of sudden
and violent means. We have ever been reformers
rather than revolutionists. Our cwii struggle for
independence was not in its aspect a revolution.
We contrived to give it all the dignity of a war
from the first blow. Although our generals and
soldiers might not have been so well trained as
those they fought against, they were far more
humane, considerate, and, in the end, success-

TIIK AMKUUANS 1 N VITK III A V(i t,.

30 I

fill thaii their adversaries. Our own progress
has been gradual. It is not long since a trifling
restriction existed on the suffrage of this very
state. Experience proved that it excluded quite
as many discreet men as its removal would admit
of vagabonds. Now it is the distinguishing fea-
ture of our policy that we consider man a reason-
able being, and that we rather court, than avoid,
the struggle between ignorance and intelligence.
We find that this policy rarely fails to assure the
victory of the latter, while it keeps down its
baneful monopolies. We extended the suffrage
to include every body, and while complaint is re-
moved, we find no lifference in the representation.
As yet, it is rather an improvement. Should it
become an evil, however, we shall find easy and
moderate means to change it, since we are certain
that a majority will be sufficiently sagacious to
know their own interests. You have only to con-
vince us that it is the best government, and we will
become an absolute monarchy to-morrow. It is
wonderful how prone we are to adopt that which
expectation induces us to think will be expedient,
and to reject that which experience teaches us is
bad. It must be confessed that, so far, all our
experiments have been in favour of democracy.
I very well know that you in Europe prophesy
that our career will end in monarchy. To be
candid, your prophecies excite but little feeling
here, since we have taken uj) the opinion you

If r

llllr

362

PEHFECT KREKDOM OF DISCUSSION.

don't very well understand the subject. But
should it prove true, h la bonne hcure ; when we
find that form o^ government best, depend on it,
we shall not hesitate to adopt it. You are at
perfect liberty, if you will, to establish a journal
in favour of despotism under the windows of the
capitol. I will not promise you much patronage
, at first, neither do I think you will be troubled
with much serious opposition. At all events there
is nothing in the law to molest the speculation.
Now look behind you at the ** poll" we have just
left ; reflect on this fact, and then draw your con-
clusion, of our own opinion, of the stability of our
institutions. We may deceive ourselves, but you
of Europe must exhibit a far more accurate know-
ledge of the state of our country, before we shall
rely on your crude prognostics rather than on our
own experience."

I could scarcely assure myself that Cad wallader
was not laughing at me during a good deal of the
time he was speaking, but after all, it must be con-
fessed there is some common sense in what he
said. There were three or four other passengers in
the stage, men of decent and sober exterior, among
whom I detected certain interchanges of queer
glances, though none of them appeare 1 to think
the subject of any very engrossing interest. Pro-
voked at their unreasonable indifference to a
theme so delightful as liberty, I asked one of them
" If he did not apprehend there woull be an end

''l I

OBSTINACY OF TIIK AMKUICANS.

363

to the republic, should General Jackson become
the next President ?" " 1 rather think not," was
his deliberate, and somewhat laconic answer.
" Why not ? he is a soldier, and a man of ambi-
tion." My unmoved yeoman did not care to dis-
pute either of these qualities, but !ie still per-
sevt/f^d in thinking there was not much danger,
since ** he did not know any one in his neighbour-
hood who was much disposed to help a man in
such an undertaking."

It is provoking to find a whole nation dwelling
in this species of alarming security, for no other
reason than that their vulgar and every-day prac-
tices teach them to rely on themselves, instead of
trusting to the rational inferences of philanthropic
theorists, who have so long been racking their in-
genuity to demonstrate that a condition of society
which has delusively endured for nearly two
hundred years, has been in existence all that time
in direct opposition to the legitimate deductions
of the science of government.

. 4

«.

."' '

■i'

( 364

TO SIR EDWARD WALLER, BART.

Philadelphia,

Since my last letter, I have visited New Jersey,
the eastern parts of Pennsylvania, and Delaware.
V/ith the exception of Maine, Illinois, and Indiana,
(quite new states,) I have now seen something of
all those communities, which, in common parlance,
are called the '* free states," in contradistinction to
those which still encourage the existence of
domestic slavery. As respects this material point
of policy, the confederation is nearly equally
divided in the number of states, thirteen having
virtually gotten rid of slavery, and eleven still ad-
hering to the system. The difference between the
white population, however, is vastly more in favour
of the " free states." We shall not be far out of
the way in stating the whole of the white popula-
tion of the United States at a little more than t'^n
millions. Of this number near, if not quite, seven
millions are contained in the thirteen northern,
middle, and north western states.

This portion of the Union is governed by the
same policy, and its inhabitants seek their pros-
perity in the same sources of wealth and in the
same spirit of improvement. More than half of

* ■•

POPULATION OF THE NORTK KU\ STATF.S. 3G5

them are either natives of New England, or are
descended from those who were born in that dis-
trict of the country. Together, the states I have
named cover a surface of little less than 300,000
square miles. If the territory of Michigan be
included, (which is not yet suflficiently populous
to be a state,) the amount will be swelled to near
330,000. The former will give rather more than
twenty-three to the square mile, as the rate of the
whole population on the whole surface. But in
making the estimate, what I have already said of
the vast regions that are not peopled at all, must be
kept in view. Perhaps one-third of the territory
should be excluded from the calculation alto-
gether. This would leave something more than
thirty to the square mile, for the average. But
even this estimate is necessarily delusive, as it is
known that in the old states there are sixty and
seventy souls to the square mile, and in some
parts of them many more.

In the course of reflection on this subject, I
have been led to inquire when these republics are
to reach that ratio of population which, of neces-
sity, is to compel them to adapt their institutions
to the usages of European policy. The result is
not quite so conclusive as one might at first be dis-
posed to believe. I find that despotism flourishes
with little or no opposition in Russia, a country of
about twenty-five to the square mile ; in Turkey,

■ Ut

366 POPULATIOX FAVOURABLE TO LIBERTY.

one of about fifty ;* in Spain, one of, say sixty ; in
Denmark, one of about eighty, &c., &c. ; and that
liberty is beginning to thrive, or hCiS long thriven,
in England, one of more than two hundred ; in
the Netherlands, one of an equal rate ; and, in
short, in France, in several of the most populous
states of Germany, some of which mount as high
as six and nine hundred to the square mile, more
particularly the free towns !

Here is pretty clear evidence, by that unan-
swerable argument — fact, that the populousness
of a country is not necessarily to control the free-
dom or despotism of its institutions. But the
United States have carried the freedom of their
institutions too far, since they go much farther
than we have ever found it wise or safe to go in
Europe. England herself has stopped short of such
excessive freedom. The latter position is certainly
much nearer to the truth than the other, and yet if
we should assemble even the travelled brethren of
our own club, and put the question to them — " How
far do you think that liberty and equality of politi-
cal rights can be carried in a government without
danger to its foundations ?" — it would be seen
that the replies would smack a little of the early
impressions of the different worthies who com-
pose the fraternity. Let us fancy ourselves for
a moment in solemn conclave on this knotty

• — < * Both in Europe.

AN ARCiUMKNT IN THE CLUB.

3G7

'1:1 'J

point, and we will endeavour to anticipate the
different answers. We will begin with the Prince
Andr6 KutmynoseandeyesofF.

** I am of opinion," says our accomplished,
intelligent, and loyal prince, " that without a
vast standing army, a nation can neither secure
its frontiers, nor on occasion bring them properly
within a ring fence. In what manner is a serf
to be made to respect his lord, unless he see that
the latter can enforce his rights by having recourse
to the bayonet, or in what manner is even rank
among ourselves to be regulated, without a com-
mon centre whence it must flow? It would be
utterly impossible to keep an empire composed of
subjects born in the arctic circle and subjects
born on the Caspian, men speaking different
languages, and worshipping Jesus and Mahomet,
together, without such a concentration of power
as shall place each in salutary fear of the ruler.
It is quite clear that a nation without a vast
standing army "

" I beg pardon for the interruption, mon
Prince," cries Professor Jansen : ** I agree with
you in toto, except as to the army. Certainly no
spectacle is more beautiful than that of a kind
and benevolent monarch, dwelling in the midst of
his people like a father in the bosom of a vast
family, and at once the source of order and the
fountain of honour. Still I can see no great use
in an overgrown army, which infallibly leads to

'5 .

:■ '' ■ .t'S

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^'M

368

DIFFERENCE IN OPINIONS.

'; m

a waste of money and a mis-spending of time.
Soldiers are unquestionably necessary to prevent in-
vasion or aggression, and to be in readiness to look
down any sudden attempts at revolution ; but they
are dangerous and extravagant play-things. When
a sovereign begins to stir his battalions as he does
his chess-men, one can never calculate what
move he means to make next; and as to rank,
what can be more venerable or more noble than
the class of Counts, for instance — [" Hear, hear,"
from Sir Edward Waller] — a set of nobles
who hold so happy and so respected an in-
termediate station between the prince and his
people. That is clearly the happiest government
in the whole world, where the labour of ruling is
devolved on one man : but I shall always protest
against the wisdom of a large standing army."

" Quant ct moiy' observes the colonel, making
an apologetic bow, " I cannot agree with either
the one or the other. An army before all things,
but no despot ; and, least of all, a despot who
does nothing but stay at home and vegetate on
his throne. If I m:ist have an absolute monarch.
King Stork any day to King Log. In my youth,
I will confess, certain visions of glory floated
before my eyes, and conquest appeared the best
good of life ; but time and hard service have
weakened these impressions, and I can now
plainly perceive all the advantages of La Charte.
In a constitutional monarchy one can enjoy the

-t ,

SHADES IN UEASONIN'G.

309

advantages of a despotism without any of its dis-
advantages. You have an army to vindicate the
national honour, as ready, as brave, and as effi
cient, as though the power of its head were un-
limited ; and yet you have not the constant danger
of lettres as cachet, bastilles, and monks. By a
judicious division of estates, those odious mono-
polies, which have so fatal a tendency to aris-
tocracy "

" If you stop there, dear Jules," interrupts a
certain Sir Edward Waller, ** we shall be in the
majority, and the question is our own. Nothing
can be more dangerous than a despotism, every
one must allow" (though two worthy members
had just held the contrary doctrine). " But you
are touching on the very thing now, that must
unavoidably prove fatal to your monarchy, la
chartCy'diadL all, since it is clear, that a monarch
needs the support of an aristocracy, and an aris-
tocracy is nothing without money. — An en-
lightened, unpaid, disinterested gentry, who
possess all the property. — "

* Money !' echoes the colonel, in heat ; " it is
that money which is the curse of you English.
You have it all, and yet you see you are hourly
in terror of bankruptcy. Thank God, if the revo-
lution has done nothing else, it has cut up root
and branch all our odious seignories, with their
feudal follies, and man now begins to think him-
self the owner of the soil^ and not a plant."

VOL. I. B B

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370

LNANfMITV

" Nay, my dear B^thizy, keep your temper ;
you are not now storming the bridge of Lodi.
Reflect one moment ; what will become of France
when her whole territory shall be subdivided in
freeholds not bigger than a pocket-handkerchief?"

** And your island ! what will the poor devils

of paupers do when Lord shall own the

whole island ?"

" I think," observes the abbate, perceiving that
the argument is likely to wax hot, ** that it is a
question that will admit of much to be said on
both sides, whether a people will leave more last-
ing and brilliant recollections, if their career has
been run under a republican or a monarchical
form of government. In Italy we find arguments
to maintain both positions ; though at present we
are somewhat divided between a hierarchy and
such minute geographical divisions as shall ensure
a close inspection into the interests of all who
have any right at all to be consulted in these
matters. I can neither agree with the prince,
nor with the professor, nor with the count, nor yet
with Sir Edward, though I think all of us must be
of opinion that a popular government is a thing
quite impracticable."

" Oh ! all, all, all, all."

** It is quite certain that your Lazzaroni would
scarcely know what to do with political power if
they had it," continues the abbate.

" Nor a serf," says the prince.

A UKPJ.V.

;j7i

** I can see no use in giving it even to a count,"
mutters the Dane.

" Nor to a Manchester reformer," puts in Sir
Edward.

"It is quite certain the canaille do not know
how to use it," adds Jules B^thizy, with a melan-
choly sigh ; and so the question is disposed of.

Now, if my friend Cadwallader were a mem-
ber of the club (and I hope to live long enough
to see the day when he shall become one), he
might give a very different opinion from them all.
Let us imagine, for an instant, what would be the
nature of his argument. He would probably say,
that, ** my countrymen have taken care there
shall be neither Lazzaroni, nor serf, (he might
gag a little at the tho ^ght of the blacks,) *
nor counts, nor Manchester reformers, and any
opinions which may be formed on premises of
this nature are, in consequence, utterly inappli-
cable to us. I dare say the abbate will very wil-
lingly admit, that if there were nothing but cardi-
nals in Italy, a popular government would do very
well ; and perhaps Sir Edward will allow if the
English population were all baronets of seven-
thousand a year, the elective franchise might be
extended even in his kingdom without any very

* It is manifestly unsafe to found any arguments concerning the
political institutions of this country on the existence of slavery,
since the slaves have no more to do with government than inani-
mate objects. •

B B 2

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372

A RKPLV.

imminent danger. It is wonderful how very diffi-
cult it is to make men comprehend that a thing
can be done by any one else which they have
long been used to consider as exceeding their own
ability to perform. This feeling of selfishness, or
of vanity, whichever you please, insinuates itself
into all our actions, and finally warps our opi-
nions, and obscures our judgments.

" 1 do not believe it is in the power of man
to make a Turk comprehend the nature of
English liberty; simply because, when he looks
around him, and sees the state of society in
which he himself vegetates, he can neither
understand the energy of character which re-
quires such latitude for its exertion, nor the state
of things which can possibly render it sefe. It
appears to me, that it is very nearly as difficult to
make an Englishman comprehend that it is very
possible for a people to prosper under a degree of
liberty still greater than that he enjoys. His self-
love, his prejudices, and his habits are all opposed
to the admission. Experience and fact go for
nothing. He is determined there shall be some
drawback to all the seeming prosperity of a state
of things which exceeds his own notions of the
sources whence prosperity ought to flow; and
though he may not be sufficiently conversant
with the details to lay his finger on the sore spot,
he is quite confident there must be one. He
swears it is festering, and that by-and-bye we

THE OPINION OF A STATESiMAN.

373

shall hear something of it worth knowing. I
remember once to have conversed with a renowned
English statesman on this very subject. He was
sufficiently complimentary on the institutions of
my country, and on the character of my country-
men, but we were neither of us the dupes of such
simple courtesy. I believe he did me the justice
to see that I understood him, for he very soon took
occasion to rcij^'irk that he should like the govern-
ment of the United States better if it were a
* Frank Republic.' Perceiving that I looked sur-
prised, and possibly understanding the expression
of my countenance to say how much I wondered
that a man of his experience should expect great
frankness in any government, he went on to ex-
plain ; * I mean,' he continued, * that I should
like your government better, if there were no
pageant of a head, and if Congress would act for
itself directly, without the intervention of a
President.' • <

< " This conversation occurred shortly after the
senate of the United States had rejected a treaty
with Great Britain, which the President had made
(through the public minister), and which the King
of Great Britain had previously ratified. * Hific
ill(B lachrymce,' I confined my answer to a sim-
ple observation, that the actual power of the Pre-
sident was very little, but that we should unneces-
sarily impede the execution of the laws, and
embarrass our intercourse with foreign nations, by

it!

f^tfijli

! *
t.

"«^'^

374

UlASONS Foil HIS OI'IMON.

abolishing the office, which added greatly to the
convenience of the country, without in the slightest
degree invading or endangering the liberties of the
people.

" Now, what was the amo i. of the argument
which this gifted man agitated in his own mind,
on a subject so important to the policy of a great
nation. He could understand that a right might
exist somewhere to annul the bargain of a minister,
for in his proper person he had just before refused
to ratify a treaty made by one of his own agents,*
but he could not understand that this power
should, or could, with propriety, be lodged in
hands where he was not accustomed to see it.
Napoleon would have told him that he himself
submitted to a thousand vain and restrictive regula-
tions which only tended to embarrass his opera-
tions and to lessen his influence abroad.

" Again, it is quite common for the American to
gather in discourse with Englishmen, either by
inuendos, or direct assertions, that there is little
or no religion in his country ! Nine times in ten the
former is content to laugh in his sleeve at what he
terms the egregious ignorance of his relative, or
perhaps he makes a circle of friends merry by
enumerating this instance, among fifty others, of
the jaundiced views that the folks on the home-
stead take of the condition of those who have
wandered beyond the paternal estate. But should

* With Mexico.

A KALSK IDEA

375

he be tempted to probe the feeling (1 will not call
it reason) which induces so many warm-hearted,
and kindly intentioned individuals in the mother
country, to entertain a notion so unjust, not to
say so uncharitable, of their fellow Christians,
under another r/'gime, he will find that it is in truth
bottomed on no other foundation than the circum-
stance that we have no established church. And
yet it is a known fact that the peculiar faith of
England is, in America, on the comparative in-
crease, and that in England itself, it is on a com-
parative decrease, one half of the whole population
being, at this moment, if I am rightly informed,
dissenters from the very church they think so
necessary to religion, morals and order. In Ame-
rica, we think the change in the 'atter country is
owing to the establishment itself, and the change in
our own, to the fact that men are always willing to
acknowledge the merits of any thing which is not
too violently obtruded on their notice. We may
be wrong, and so may they ; but if the fact were
only half as well authenticated as is the one that
we are competent to maintain our present political
institutions, I should consider it a question not
worth the trouble of discussion."

That Cadwallader would use some such man-
ner of reply I know, for the anecdote of his con-
versation with the English statesman (now un-
happily no more) I have actually heard him men-
tion. I confess the justice r«f many of his remarks,

'. >

, Pi

376

1'HK.a'DICK.

for 1 am perfectly conscious of having been the
subject of a great many of these vague and general
conjectures on American policy ; but a closer ob-
servation of the actual state of the country is gra-
dually forcing me to different conclusions. The
morecandid Europeanwill admit thata vast number
of our usages and institutions owe their existence,
at the present hour, to prejudice. Now, is it not
possible that prejudice may have quite as active
an agency in keeping down a^'istocracy, as in
keeping it up ? It is perfectly absurd to say that
it is an ordering of nature ; for nature, so far from
decreeing that the inequality of her gifts is to be
perpetuated in a direct male line, and in conformity
to the rights of primogeniture, is commonly content
with visiting a single family with her smiles, at
long intervals, and with a very unequal bounty.
So far as nature is concerned, then, she is diame-
trically opposed to the perpetuation of power or
consideration in the regular descent. Neither
talents, nor physical force, nor courage, nor beauty,
are often continued long in any one race. But men
do get, and do keep too, the control of things in
their own families, in most of the countries of the
earth. This is a practical argument, which it will
be found difficult to controvert. It is precisely for
this reason that I begin to think the people of the
United States will not soon part with the power
of which they are at present in such absolute pos-
session. But knowledge you will say is power, and

PHF.junrcK.

377

knowledge is confined to the few. I am inclined
to think, after all, that the degree of knowledge
which is necessary to make a man obstinate in the
defence of rights which he has been educated to
believe inherent, is far from being very profound.
It is well known that despots have often failed in
att' mpts on the personal privileges of their subjects.
Paul could send a prince to Siberia, but he could
not make a Boyer shave. Now, the rights of suf-
frage, of perfect political equality, of freedom in
religion, and ofall other political privileges, are the
beards of these people. It will be excessively
hazardous to attempt to shorten them by a hair.
The ornaments of the chin are not more effectually
a gift of nature, than are the political privileges of
the American his birth- right. Groat as is the
power of the English aristocracy, there are limits
to its exercise, as yoa very well know, and any
man can predict a revolution should they attempt
to exceed them. I fancy the only difference
between the mother and child in this particular is,
that the latter, so far as political rights go, has
rather a richer inheritance than the former. Time
has clearly little to do with the matter beyond the
date of our individual existence, since a human life
is quite long enough to get thoroughly obstinate
opinions on any subject, even though prejudice
should be their basis.

From this familiar and obvious manner of
reasoning (and I think it will be found to contain

■li

J i Til

378 PERPETUITY OF THE INSTITUTIONS.

a fair proportion of the truth) it would seem to
result that there is quite as little likelihood the
American will lose any of his extreme liberty, as
that the Dutchman, the Frenchman, or the En-
glishman, will lose any great portion of that which
he now enjoys. The question is then narrowed to
the use the former will make of his power.

The past speaks for itself, and in language suffi-
ciently plain for any man to comprehend, who is
not obstinately bent on refusing credit to institu-
tions to which he is unaccustomed. The future is
necessarily, in some degree, matter of conjecture;
but, in order to anticipate it with an approach to
accuracy, we will continue our investigation of facts.

You are already master of my opinions on the
genera^ character of the inhabitants of New
England. If I add the results of the observations
made in the recent tour, you will possess the re-
marks I have made on more than half of the whole
population of the country, and this too without
excluding the slaves from the calculation.

The great national characteristics throughout
this whole people are, with few and limited ex-
ceptions, every where essentially the same. But
shades of difference do assuredly exist, which may
serve rather to modify the several states of society,
than to effect any material change « I think the
principal distinctions emanate from slavery, and
from the greater or less support that is given to
the common schools. The Americans themselves

COMMON SCHOOLS.

379

rightly esteem knowledge as the palladium of
their liberty, no less than the mighty agent of their
comparative importance ; and wherever a sound
and wholesome policy prevails, the utmost atten-
tion is paid to the means of its diffusion. You
should constantly remember, however, that each
state has the entire control of all these subjects in
its own hands. Consequently, although the mighty
truth is universally admitted, very different means
have been resorted to, in order to promote its
advancement.

The policy of New York and Ohio differs but
little from that of New England in this particular.
Unhappily that of Pennsylvania is less enlight-
ened. In the former state, during the current
year (1814), when the population is rather under
1,600,000, there are 7,642 common schools;
402,940 scholars have been taught in these
schools for an average of nine months. These are
in addition to all the private schools, which are
numerous, especially in the towns ; and which
include all who push education beyond reading,
writing, arithmetic, and a little grammar and geo-
graphy.*

From these numbers, which are taken from
official reports, you gain two important facts ; the
extent of the common education, and the number of

* In 1825, there were 7773 common schools, and 425,530
scholars, exclusive of those who attended 656 schools, from which
no returns were made in time to be included.

i::.

380

STATISTICS OF NEW YORK.

si '.''^

the children compared to that of the adults. During
the same year (1824) there were 1 1,553 marriages,
61,383 births, and 22,544 deaths, or nearly three
births to one death. It must be remembered that
this state contains more populous towns than any
other, and that the deaths in the city of New
York alone, from the wandering character of so
great a portion of its population, must necessarily
exceed the regular proportion of nature.
• While on this subject, it may be well to advert
to a few other facts, of which I propose to make
some use, when further observation shall entitle
me to comment on the present condition and
future fortunes of the slaves. In 1790, the whole
population of the state of New York was 340, 120.
Of this number 25,975 were blacks, chiefly slaves.
In 1800 there were 586,050 persons, of whom
30,988 were blacks, chiefly slaves. In 1810,
959,049 persons, and 40,350 blacks, of whom,
perhaps, nearly half were free. In 1820 the
population was 1,372,812, of whom only 39,367
were blacks; viz., 10,088 slaves, and 29,279 free
people of colour. In 1825 the population was
1,616,458, of whom 39,999 were blacks, all free,
or, what was the same thing, all to be free on the
4th of July, 1827 ; and by far the most of them
were free at the time the census was actually
taken.

It will be well to recollect that the state of
New York, so far from being a place avoided by

THE BLACKS.

381

the blacks, is rather one they seek. The scarcity
of domestics, and the large proportion of families
who keep servants, induce thousands of free peo-
ple of colour to resort there for employment. A
great many are also hired as labourers on board
of vessels. Still they do not increase amid the vast
increase of the whites. A trifling migration to
Hayti may have affected the returns a little, but
there is no doubt that the migration into the
state exceeds that from it. One must remember
how few marriages take place among these people ;
their moral condition, their vagrant habits, their
exposure, their dirt, and all the accumulated mis-
fortunes of their race.* /r i . «. i
I think it is quite fair to infer, from these state-
ments, that freedom is not favourable to the conti-
nuation of the blacks, while society exists under the
influence of its present prejudices. The general
returns of the number of the free blacks in the
whole of the United States, certainly show that

* At the census of 1825, there were in the state of New York
1,513,421 neat cattle; 349,628 horses; 3,496,539 sheep;
1,467,573 hogs; 2,269 grist mills, chiefly by water ; 5,195 saw
mills, almost all by water; 1,222 fulling mills; 1,584 carding
mills; 76 cotton, and 189 woollen manufactories of cloth for sale.
There were 645 deaf and dumb, 1,421 idiots, and 819 lunatics.
It should, however, be remembered, that unfortunate subjects of
these maladies are frequently sent from other states to the benevo-
lent institutions of this. -,.'.. .; .

382

decreasp: of the free blacks.

■H.

■( '^

»■

they are on the increase ; but this fact is to be
ascribed to the constant manumissions, and not
to any natural cause. In Massachusetts there
have been no slaves since the declaration of inde-
pendence. It has, of course, been a favourite
residence of the blacks, some of whom have risen
to respectable situations in life. Among them,
there have been traders, ship-masters, and even
ship owners ; and yet they have scarcely increased
in number, during the last thirty years. In 1790
there were 5,463 blacks in that state ; and in
1820 there were 6,740. During the same time
the whole population has advanced from 378,787
to 523,287.* A vast emigration to the New
States has kept down the population of Massa-
chusetts. Thus, you see, that while the whites
have increased in thirty years more than thirty-
eight per cent., the blacks have not reached the
rate of twenty-four per cent., and this, too, under
as favourable circumstances, as they are probably
fated to enjoy, for a long time to cn^ie, in these
republics. But Massachusetts was alone tor
many years in the protection and favour she ex-
tended to this unfortunate race. The rate of their
increase was vastly greater, before the manumis-
sion laws went into force in the adjoining states,
than now. Thus, between 1790 and 1800, they
increased one hundred and eighty per cent., a rate
much greater than that of the whites during the

♦Census of 1820.

DECREASE OF THE FREE BLACKS.

383

same period (a consequence of the influx of the
former, and of the emigration of the latter). Be-
tween 1800 and 1810 their increase was forty-
four per cent., and between 1810 and 1820 only
five per cent. There being only three more blacks
in 1820 than in 181G, while the whites, notwith-
standing emigration, had augmented 51,116.

Now^ it is quite certain that, in a country sub-
ject to so many changes as this, and where man
is so very active, all statistical calculations are
liable to the influences of minute and familiar
causes, which are very likely to escape the detec-
tion of a stranger. When Cadwallader first di-
rected my attention to the foregoing reports, I was
about to jump to the instant conclusion that the
free blacks did not propagate their species at all,
and that, as the gross increase of their numbers
in the country was owing to manumissions,
nothing remained bui to give them all their free-
dom, in order to render the race extinct. But
my companion, like most of his countrymen, is a
calculator too wary and too ingenious to fall into
so gross an error.

There is no doubt that the free blacks, like the
Aborigines, gradually disappear before the supe-
rior moral and physical influence of the whites,
but the rate of their decrease is not to be calcu-
lated by that in the state of Massachusetts, nor
even by that of the native possessors of the soil.
A black man, unlike an Indian, can be easily

;:«;

384

HABITS OF THE FREE BLACKS.

civilized ; and perhaps there are no peasants in
the world who require a greater indulgence of
their personal comforts than the people of colour
in the northern and middle states of this Union.
In this respect they are like the menials of most
other nations, having acquired from their mas-
ters a reflected taste for luxury. But it is well
known that cold is not congenial to the physical
temperament of a black.* The free blacks are

* All experience proves, that ages and generations must elapse
before the descendants of the African can acquire habits of endu-
rance which shall enable him effectually to resist frost, if, indeed,
it can ever be done. Indeed, while the negro is often powerful of
frame, and generally supple and active, it may be questioned whether
he can endure extreme fatigue of any sort, as well as a white man ; at
least as well as the hardy and vigorous whites of this country. A
thousand instances might be adduced to prove this position, but
two must suffice. A few years since, an American whaler was
struck by a whale in the Pacific Ocean, and the vessel instantly
bilged. The crew was compelled to traverse half of that vast ocean
in their boats, subject to the utmost privation, and sustaining the
most horrible sufferings. But few survived to reach the land. The
blacks, of whom there were a fair proportion, died, being the
first to sink under their abstinence and labour. — ^A few years since,
a small vessel ran into a bay on Long Island, during a severe snow
storm, at a time that Cadwallader was near the spot. She was soon
surrounded by a thin ice, and as her crew had no fire, nor boat,
they were reduced to the utmost distress. A signal was made to
that effect. A young gentleman proceeded to the rescue of the un-
fortunate mariners, seconded by two servants, one of whom was
white, and the other black. The latter was a farm labourer of ejreat
strength and activity. The ice was to be broken near a mile, in the
face of a cutting wind, and while the thermoWter (Fahrenheit) stood

DECREASK OF FREE BLACKS.

385

found hovering as near as possible to the slave
states, bf cause the climate of the south is what
they crave. Thus, in Pennsylvania they increase,
while in New York they decrease. Some portion
of this effect is no doubt produced by the more
extensive commerce of the latter (which works
up a great number of blacks as sailors), and by
the peculiar policy of the Quakers, as well as of
the descendants of the Germans, in the former
state, both of whom display singular care of their
black dependants. But, on the whole, I think it
must be assumed as a fact for our future reason-
ing, that the free blacks rather decrease than
otherwise (always excepting the eifects of manu-
mission) ; and it is well known, that the whole
white population grows rather faster than the
whole black.

Before closing these remarks I will add, that
the whites, with the exception of certain districts
in the southern states, attain a greater degree of
longevity than the blacks, and that it is known
that the slaves have more children than the free
people of colour.

It is not improbable that there are some imma-
terial errors in the reports, from which the number
of children in the common schools of New York
have been taken, since the state bestows its

several degrees below Zero. The crew were rescued, but the black
was near dying, and had to be landed before half the toil was com-
pleted, and a white man was taken in his place.
VOL, 1. C C

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386

AMERICAN EXAGGERATION'.

;

I '.

bounty in proportion to the wants of the district ;
but, on the other hand, it must be remembered, that
the amounts are gathered by public and qualified
officers, and that each school district is obliged to
tax itself for just as much money as it receives,
in order to raise the sum necessary to defray the
current expenses of common education, so that,
on the whole, it is probable there is no great
exaggeration ; nor is a traveller, who has wit-
nessed the immense number of white-headed and
chubby little urchins he sees all over the country,
at all disposed to suspect it.

We of Europe, when we listen to the wonders
of these regions, in the way of increase and pros-
perity, are a little addicted to suspect the native
narrators of the prodigies of a love of the marvel-
lous. I once ventured to ask Cadwallader his
opinion on this delicate point. His answer was
sufficiently to the point, and you shall have it,
without the smallest qualification : —

" That the Europeans," he said, " will not be-
lieve facts, which have a daily existence before
our eyes, proves nothing but their ignorance. In
my own opinion, and this is but a matter of opi-
nion, there is less falsehood uttered in the United
States (if you exclude the slaves) than in any
other Christian country, though Heaven knows
there is quite enough. In saying falsehood, I
mean untruths, whether intentional or not. A
certain degree of gross credulity is absolutely ne-

EUROPEAN IGNORANCE.

387

cessary, that one very numerous class of vulgar
falsehoods should flourish anywhere. Our Euro-
pean kinsmen, who are quite as enlightened as
any other people of your hemisphere, are far from
being exempt from the foible of excessive credu-
lity. The tales one hears on the top of a stage-
coach would scarcely do in an American vehicle ;
for the shrewd, practical, quick-witted, and rest-
less people of this country, would be ashamed to
believe, and consequently ashamed to tell, half the
extraordinary feats of such or such a subject of no-
toriety, merely because they have been accustomed
to think understandingly of what a man can do
in almost every situation in which he is ordinarily
placed. Nowhere is a lie so soon and so tho-
roughly sifted as here. Even the institutions of
the country are favourable to the discovery of
truth, as no man is e.v-qfficio considered immacu-
late. Love of country, a stronger passion in
Atrierica than even in England, or rather a more ge-
neral one, has never protected an officer in a false
colouring of a victory or a defeat, when the truth
was within the reach of the multitude. The at-
tempts are comparatively rare, for the hazard is
notorious. During the war of the revolution, the
public documents of th^^ nation, which were is-
sued in something like the form of bulletins, were
found to be so true, that the signature of the Secre-
tary of Congress was universally deemed conclu-
sive as to all interesting facts.

c c 2

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388

TillTTIl OK PUBLIC DOCUMF-NTS.

" In no one instance were the people ever in-
tentionally deceived, and it is rare indeed that they
were ever deceived at all. History, in 1824,
gives in substance the same accounts of our battles,
fortunes, and reverses, as did Charles Thompson
in 1776. Indeed, it would be just as impracti-
cable for the government to mislead, for any length
of time, as it would for an individual to make
people think a man could work a miracle, or get
into a quart bottle. Thus we are spared a pro-
digious amount of falsehood, which prevails else-
where, merely because no one will believe it ;
or, at least, there will not be enough of the cre-
dulous to permit an improbable lie to flourish.
Then the servile deception, which is a necessary
attendant of great inequality of condition, cannot
be, and is not, as frequent here as in Europe. A
mechanic will be very apt to tell any man his mind
who offends him, whether he be a governor or
merely a brother in the trade.

" Moral influence is also juite as strong in the
United States as in the most moral countries of
the east. Indeed I know but one cause why de-
ception should be more active here than in Europe,
while I can see and do know a multitude why it
should not. The frequency of elections certainly
gives rise to a greater frequency of those amiable
misrepresentations that are so peculiar to all politi-
cal struggles. But, in point of effect, these election
lies, as they are called, defeat themselves ; they

Ipe,
it

Inly
Ible

iti-
iion

ley

EXCESSIVK CREDULITY AND INCREDULITY. 389

indeed do even more ; they often defeat the trutli,
as most people are predisposed to incredulity.
And yet, four-fifths of our elections pass away
like this you have just witnessed, without ex-
citing sufficient interest to raise a lie about them
at all. ' '

** Facts, undeniable, manifest, and, to an Ameri-
can, familiar facts, do certainly often assume to the
unpractised ears of an European, an air of startling
exaggeration. There appears in mankind a dispo-
sition always to believe too much, or to believe too
little. The exact and true medium is hit by very
few, who, by uniting a sufficiency of experience to
a necessary amount of native penetration, are
enabled to estimate testimony with accuracy. I
have repeatedly felt, while in Europe, the embar-
rassment of encountering those who were disposed
to believe miracles on the subject of my country,
and those who were not disposed to believe that
things, under any circumstances, could vary mate-
rially from the state in which they existed, before
their own eyes. Even educated men cease to
resemble each other in this respect, for all the
books in the world cannot qualify a man to esti-
mate the power of his species, half so well as
personal observation. Our very obstinacy in in-
credulity on practical things, goes to prove the
general sense of mankind concerning the value
of experience, by showing how apt we are to re-
fuse credit to acts which exceed any thing we

; ' ; }l

1''

' Ml

■tjt!

390

LLAVKS NKW VOKK FOR TUK SOUTH.

have ourselves witnessed. Perhaps, in a country
where so much is actually done, there is some dis-
position, on the part of vulgar minds, to exceed
possibility in their anticipations, and even in their
narrations, but this would prove the quality rather
than the amount of our misrepresentation. On
the whole, I incline to the opinion, that there are
more untruths told in denying the unparalleled
advances of this country, than in affirming it."

TO SIR EDWARD WALLER, BART.

Washington, —

Our passage from New York to Philadelphia,
though the distance is less v ..n ninety miles, was
made, as is so usual here, by land and by water.
In consequence of the unequalled facilities offered
by their rivers, bays, and sounds, the Americans
enjoy, in a very large portion of their country, the
means of travelling that are cheap and commo-
dious to a degree that is unknown in any other
country. Of the steam-boats I have already
spoken ; but I do not remember to have said any
thing concerning their extraordinary cheapness^
The passage money is sometimes little more

ABUNDANCE ON THK TAHI.KS.

391

than nominal. 1 have been conveyed in a spacious,
convenient, and even elegant boat, the distance of
forty miles, for somelhinT less than a shilling
sterling. This was ceitiiinly cheaper than com-
mon, but the price of a passage, (food included,)
from New Y'ork to Albany, varies from two to
four dollars, according to the style and nature
of your accommodations. For the lowest sum,
you travel better than in any European boat I
have ever yet seen ; and for the highest, if the ex-
cessive crowds be excepted, with a degree of
comfort and abundance that is really next to in-
credible.

I think the first thing that strikes you at an
American table, is the liberality with which it is
supplied. The excessive abundance is a fault.
The innkeepers seem to understand that a tra-
veller can eat but a certain quantity, and they
appear nearly indifferent as to the quality of the
articles in which he may choose to indulge.
Thus game, fish, and flesh, are placed before him
in very liberal quantities, and he is allowed to
choose between them. What he leaves is silently
removed, pay being expected only for that which
is consumed. Of course the prices and the qua-
lity of the viands, no less than the style in which
they are served, differ very materially in a coun-
try of such vast extent. In the older states, par-
ticularly in the vicinity of the large towns, the
expenses of the inns are greater than in the inte-

*'"j!

392

QUALITY OF THE INNS.

rior, though, compared with their comfort and
abundance, never equal to that which we pay in
most of Europe. Foreign travellers are, however,
often deceived on this subject, from ignorance of
knowing how to choose. The stage-houses, though
frequently the best inns, very often deserve to
be classed 'among the worst. The traveller in a
stage is commonly obliged to take such fare as
the stage-house affords. There is no posting, and
consequently those connected lines of excellent
inns, which are to be found over most of England,
and which are prepared for the accommodation
of travellers who are willing to pay a little more
than common, for personal indulgence, are un-
known here. But still a native of the country,
and especially one of higher pretensions, travels
in all the older States of America, with vastly
more comfort than a stranger would be apt to
suppose. He is familiar with his privileges, and
he knows how to assert them without offence,
while the foreigner either submits unnecessarily
to privations, from an exaggerated opinion of the
danger of offending a people, of whose equality he
has an absurd and confused opinion, or he gives
rational cause of disgust, by assuming airs that
should be practised no where, and which can never
with perfect impunity be practised here.

We left New York in a steam-boat for Bruns-
wick, a small city in the state of New Jersey. At
this place we found no less than thirteen stages,

MANNER OF TRAVELLING.

393

ready to convey those who proceeded to the river
Delaware. The number of the coaches varies
according to the amount of travelling, and on
some occasions I was told it exceeded twenty.

In these vehicles, the passengers are disposed
by a very simple and quiet process, and with an
expedition that marks all the movements of these
active people. You are only to imagine a hun-
dred passengers, arriving with their baggage at a
point of debarkation, whence, in less than ten
minutes of time, they were to proceed in coaches,
to fancy the uproar and confusion that would
occur in most countries. The steam-boat lines, as
they are called, manage the matter differently.

Some little time before the boat arrives, the
passengers give in their names, and receive in
return, tickets, which bear the numbers of the
coaches in which they are to proceed. As the
masters of the boats have a method of making
these arrangements, which is analogous to the
common sense customs of the country on all
matters which relate to the interior regulations of
society, I will explain it.

You will readily suppose that all classes of people
are to be found travelling in these public and
cheap conveyances ; some little address is there-
fore necessary to dispose of an assemblage which
is so motley, and whose members are of neces-
sity to be brought in such familiar contact. The
master of the boat knew Cadwallader, and to him

!'%]

394 CLASSIFICATION OF THE TRAVELLERS,

he immediately gave ticket No. 1 ; not that the
stage was better than the rest, but because it
was necessary to keep some division of the sub-
ject in his own mind, and this was probably the
most natural. My companion pointed to me, and
I received No. 1, also. There were two or three
pretty, genteel looking women, with their male
friends, who received the same sort of tickets,
until the stage was filled. Then came Nos. 2, 3,
4, 5 and 6, with nearly the same quality of tra-
vellers. In one or two instances I heard requests
urged, that families, or parties, might be placed
together, and several changes were made in order
to accommodate the applicants. There were two
or three vehicles filled with jolly sons of the ocean,
who appeared to relish each other's society better
than they would have relished ours ; and the car-
riage in the rear brought on a dark bevy of the
descendants of Ham. When we reached the
shore, each one sought his number ; the baggage,
which had been previously marked with chalk,
was transferred to its proper vehicle, and the
whole line was in swift motion, in less than the
prescribed time.

In order to get a view of the country, I had
begged a seat on the dicky, by the side of the
coachman. As the driver of No. 1. gave the move-
ment to all who came after him, he was, of
course, the most distinguished whip of the whole
procession. My companion certainly deserved

A SAILOR COACHMAN

395

li>i>i^l';

his honours, for he not only managed his team
with great dexterity, but he showed the qualities
of judgment and temper in that degree which I
think distinguishes most of the native coachmen
of this country. They are commonly a reasoning
and discreet race, compared to so many of their
prototypes in Europe, and consequently they are
humane. A little discourse soon brought us ac-
quainted, and to my amazement I found the
coachman was also a sailor, and that a year or
two before, he had actually been the coxswain
of a commodore ! He had driven a public coach
in England, a private coach in South America,
and now he was driving No. 1 . of the steam-boat
line at home ! ** Where were you born ?" I
asked. " Over there, in that house you see
against the side of the hill," he answered, point-
ing with his whip. " I took to the seas about
the same time I took to horses, and so I have
been driving and getting a wet jacket, turn about,
two or three seasons at a time, these five-and-
twenty years. But my pipe is out now for the
seas, since I broke my arm, in which there is
scarce strength enough left to hold a bucket of
water to the heads of my horses." Here was a
striking case of the diversity of employment
which is so common in America. The very pur-
suits which, in Europe, are perhaps the most op-
posed to each other, were here successfully exer-
cised by the same man. When I mentioned the

iii^

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'■M

"II

ill

396

ADMIXTURE OF EMPLOYMENTS.

fact to Cadwallader, he told me that such profes-
sional incongruities were far from rare, and that
one of the best drivers of a public coach he had
ever known, was a man who had diversified his
life by sometimes going to sea. Indeed, I am
persuaded there is no one thing which will
more astonish an observant and good-humoured
traveller through this country, than the extraordi-
nary aptitude that the common Americans dis-
play in the exercise of callings which are thought
to be as much opposed to each other in qualifica-
tion as that of a coachman and that of a coxswain
of a man-of-war.

We found the roads very tolerably good, the
horses excellent, the coaches, though not exceed-
ingly easy, well enough. When we entered
Trenton, the coach was stopped by Cadwallader,
and we descended at an inn, which, as it after-
wards appeared, had no connection with the
stages. Our example was followed by one or
two more, the rest of the travellers proceeding to
the regular stage house. I mention this little
circumstance, as it may serve to give an idea of a
description of inns in this country, of which even
observant travellers in it do not often get any
notion, but which, nevertheless, abound in all the
northern and eastern states. Under favour of my
friend's experience, I have entered fifty such,
some not quite as good, and some even better
than the one I am about to describe : —

A GOOD AMERICAN INN.

397

H 1'

At Bispham's, Trenton, we were received by
the landlord with perfect civility, but without the
slightest shade of obsequiousness. The deport-
ment of the innkeeper was manly, courteous, and
even kind ; but there was that in his air which
sufficiently proved that both parties were ex-
pected to manifest the same qualities. We were
asked if we all formed one party, or whether the
gentlemer who alighted from number one, wished
to be by themselves. The reply was, that we
wished to be alone. We were shewn into a neat
well-furnished little parlour, where our supper
made its appearance in the course of twenty
minutes. The table contained many little delica-
cies, such as game, oysters, and choice fish, and
several things were named to us as at hand, if
needed. Cadwallader had tea, while I took coffee.
The former was excellent, the latter, as usual,
indifferent enough. The papers of New York and
Philadelphia were brought in at our request, and
we sat, with our two candles, before a cheerful fire
reading them as long as we pleased. Our bed-
chambers were spacious, well furnished, and as '
neat as possible, and the beds as good as one
usually finds them out of France. In the morn-
ing we left the house before breakfast, in order to
rejoin our steam-boat line, which took the river a
short mile from the place where we slept. Now,
for these accommodations, which were just as
good, with one solitary exception, (water-closets,)

:^98

ITS COMFORT AND CHEAPNESS.

as you would meet in the better order of English
provincial inns, and much better in the quality
and abundance of the food, we paid the sum of
4s, 6d. sterling each. I confess I did not think it
was enough, and proposed to my companion to
make an addition. *' Put up your purse," he
said, smiling ; * all we ask is, that when you get
back, you will merely tell what you have seen.
This man has his price, and will take neither more
nor less." You must also remember, that in
America when you pay the regular price for any-
thing, you commonly have paid all. I have never
known a servant ask for a douceur ; and though
people of a certain class generally give a trifle
to the man who cleans boots, or to him who does
any little extra services, neither waiter, chamber-
maid, nor any one else demands it. It is just
the same in the steam-boats, stages, hackney
coaches, &c., when you get the regular price,
you know all the necessary expense, and I use
the word necessary, in reference to custom no less
than right.*

I have been in a vast number of these inns. So
far from putting people three in a bed, they
apologise for the necessity of putting friends in
the same room when it is necessary ; and on the

* A trifle is commonly expected for transferring the baggage from
the steam-boats to the coaches, and vice versa. Sometimes an
European, or an experienced American servant in the large towns,
will look as if he expected a present.

GOOD INNS NOT UNFREQUENT.

399

slightest hesitation at such an arrangement being
manifested, they do all they can to obviate the
necessity.

I do not suppose that it is possible to arrive at

any very exact estimate of the taverns in this

country. They are certainly more numerous

than I remember to have ever seen them before,

especially on all the great routes. A vast number

are very bad, and it might be difficult for even a

native to travel in his own carriage any great

distance w^ithout occasionally encountering : >me

of the sort ; but, always confining my remarks

to the older and more northern states, and

making the exceptions which are peculiar to the

two countries, I am of opinion that there are quite

as many good taverns in America as in England,

while there are infinitely more bad ones. The

former, certainly, do not occur at every five

miles ; but in order to institute a fair comparison,

it is necessary to remember the vast difference in

the sizes of the two countries. In this simple fact

exists the secret of the apparent difference in

the quality of the taverns. But an American inn,

and, indeed, the inn of every other country except

England, is almost always deficient in the one

great nameless convenience already mentioned in

this letter. The servants here are not so good as

in Europe generally, and much inferior to those in

England. I make my comparisons with your inns,

because they are, as a class, more uniformly

"■JLjII

400

SECOND ONLY TO ENGLISH INNS.

good than those of any other country, and be-
cause the best of yours are unquestionably among
the best of the world. I know no other country
indeed in which the inns will compare, on the
whole, with those of the older parts of America.
The inns of France, in the large towns, cleanli-
ness excepted, are about equal to the inns in the
large towns here ; but the best inns of the villages
are vastly inferior.*

The passage down the Delaware, though pic-
turesque, and far from unpleasing, will bear no
comparison with that on the Hudson. Still,
one may get an idea of the great beauty of all
these splendid views by recailing the fact that
numberless European travellers who have made
the excursion to Philadelphia before going north,
extol the former river to the skies.

A few miles below Trenton, Joseph Bonaparte
has sought a retreat from the cares and mortifi-
cations of the old world. He lives in a sort of
retirement which embraces a large circle of
friends and dependants. The family of Bonaparte
is already getting to be numerous in America,
and it is probable that in a few years the name
will be found in the rolls of congress : a century
hence it may possibly be seen on the signs of the

* If we take cooking into the account, there are inns now, in the
northern and western parts of France, that are quite equal to the
best English provincial inns. Those who are very luxurious in
their beds may even think thera better.

HABITS OF THE EX-KING,

401

Cities. Besides the ex-king, (who !ias assumed
the title of Compte de Survilliers, the name of
a little village which lies adjacent to the splendid
chateau of Morfontaine,) there are a son of
Lucien, (married to the oldest daughter of Jo-
seph,) a son of Jerome by his first, or the Ameri-
can wife, and two sons of the hapless Murat.
Charles, the son of Lucien, has children born in the
country, and who consequently are possessed of
the rights of natives. This young man is already
favourably known for his devotion to, and for his
attainments in science. He is said to be simple
in his habits, and to have found favour among the
republicans of these regions.

The Compte de Survilliers, I believe, d«^yes
not mingle much with the society of the courtry.
He does not speak the language ; and, as French
is not so generally understood here as ill Europe,
that circumstance alone would oppose obstacles
to his wishes, did he even feel a desire to live
more in the world. He is said to be unassuming
when he does appear in public; and, in conse-
quence, is rather in favour than otherwise.*

* A few years si»?ce, the house of the Compte dn Survilliers was
burnt by accident. iS few days after the conflagration, a card
appeared in a journal of the vicinity, in which the sufferer, after
returning thanks to the inhabitants of the neighbouring village of Bor-
dentown, for their promptitude in coming to his assistance, alluded
to the circumstance, that none of his effects had been purloined in the
midst of the confusion in terms of commendation. The writer under-

VOL. I.

D D

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'.rW'm

402

XAPOM'.OX IN AMFlUrA.

Many absurd conjectures were hazarded at the
time on the probable consequences, had Napoleon
succeeded in his project of reaching the United
States. These conjectures, like a thousand others
connected with the events of the hour, are already
forgotten among the evanescent interests of the
past ; but it was recalled to my mind as I gazed
at the secluded and irregular chilteau of his
brother. " What would Napoleon have done
with your institutions, had he reached your
shores ?" was the question I put to Cadwallader.
*' He would have found some agreeable site, like
this of Joseph, and told his tales of Italy and of
France to travellers in the west, instead of tell-
ing them to travellers in the east. As no one man
had any exceeding influence in creating our institu-
tions, rely on it they will not speedily fall before
the talents, or even virtues, of any single individual.
That which we owe to ourselves as the work of
our own hands, our own hands will preserve ; and
while kings can find on earth no mqre peaceful
asylum than that we offer them, imagination can-
not conceive a less profitable theaUe for the
enactment of a royal drama. We are ready to
extend hospitality to both parties — subjects who

stood that the thanks were well enough received, for they were
usual, but that a momentary offence was given to the mhabitants,
by any man presuming to thank them for common honesty!
The people of the vicinity have, however, already forgotten their
j~ique, for they speak of their neighbour with great kindness.

IMIII ADKI.IMIIA.

403

are tired of their kings, and kings who are tired of
their subjects : but the great political nVie of this
country must be played in our own simple fashion,
and with scenery and decorations that shall suit
the national taste."

I found Philadelphia remarkable for its regu-
larity of construction, its neatness and its quietude.
It has much more the air of a better sort of
English town, or, in fact, of a quarter of London,
than even New York, though there are points of
marked difference, as well as of resemblance, be-
tween the City of Brotherly-love and the capital
of the mother country. The bricks are not
painted; and the eye immediately misses the gay,
cheerful look which distinguishes New York.
Herein it resembles a well built and clean town of
England ; but its exceeding neatness is almost
peculiar to this country, aided as it is by objects
of ornament that are not found in the streets of
any English city. A vast number of the door-
steps are of white marble ; many of the caps and
sills of the windows, and even parts of the side-
walks, are chiselled in the same material. In-
deed, the profusion of this stone in the best streets
serves to enliveii the appearance of the place,
though I acknowledge that 1 have some doubts of
the taste which creates so violent a contrast as
that between white and red.

In architecture, Philadelphia, beyond all doubt,
excels its great commercial neighbour. The pri-

I) D 2

404

punijc nrii.i)iN(j.s.

vate buildings do not materially vary from those I
have described, thougl I think it may be said
there is less taste for luxury, generally, in this
place than in New York. If any thing, the furniture
is more simple, though always neat, and often ex-
ceedingly rich. A gentleman of Philadelphia is
about as well lodged as that portion of the English
nobility and gentry who are not the proprietors of
capital town-houses. This brings him on a level
with most of the Frenchmen below those who
singly occupy large hotels.

Of public edifices there is a larger and better
display than in New York, churches alone ex-
cepted. A good and an improving taste is cer-
tainly prevalent in this city on the subject of
architecture. I believe it is generally admitted,
that the finest modern edifice we know is the
Bourse of Paris. You will be surprised, perhaps,
when I say, that, next to this exquisite work of
art, I rank the Bank of the United States in this
city. There are certainly a hundred buildings in
Europe of a very similar style, and of far more
laboured ornaments ; but I cannot remember one,
in which simplicity, exquisite proportion, and ma-
terial, unite to produce so fine a whole. It is doric,
without side colonnades, not particularly large,
though of sufficient size for effect, and of white
marble. The church of the Madeleine at Paris,
for instance, when completed, should be an edifice
of a vast deal more of pretension ; but, notwith-

IJANK OK Tin; UNITKl) STATtS.

405

standing its admirable position, its great size, and
its immense colonnades. I do not believe it will
ever produce so pleasing an effect as this chaste
and severe little temple of Plutus. It is certain
that the Madeleine stands in a position to try its
powers of pleasing to the utmost ; for, flanked by
the Garde Meuble, and fronting the fa9ade of the
Chambre des D^put^s, no imperfection is permit-
ted to escape, without quick comparative criti-
cism. I am not sure that the Bank of the United
States does not owe some of its charms to the
fact that it has no rival near ; but even that cir-
cumstance is a merit in the architect, since he
could have had no other eye than that of the mind
to regulate his proportions.

Philadelphia has other clever edifices. There is
another banking-house in classic taste, and several
more buildings erected for ihe monied institutions
(a tribute to gold, perhaps, to be expected here)
are in a very good style. An immense building
is in the course of construction for a Penitentiary,
and wears a promising air. The Fair Mount
water-works are well worthy the examination of
every stranger.

But you, who know, by melancholy experience
how little there is actually worth viewing in the
oldest countries of the earth, after the first interest
of curiosity har^ been appeased, should not be
surprised to learn, that an American city can
ccntain very little to reward the eye, unless that

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406

A MANUFACTUlllXG CITY.

which is seen should be taken in connexion with
the moral agents that have assisted to bring it
into existence. In the latter respect, one has
cause of astonishment at each step taken in this
rapidly advancing country, and in no place more
than in Philadelphia.

New York is a great commercial town ; but this
city is more devoted to manufacturing. It is
much cheaper than the former place, and in many
particulars admirably adapted to maintain its
present pursuits. There is no want of capital ;
and it is highly probable that the day is not
distant when it shall become a modified, or im-
proved, Manchester or Birmingham. Its present
population is about 140,000.*

I will not say we found in Philadelphia a better
bred, or a more enlightened society, than we found
in N ew York, for this would not be strictly true ;
but we found it less interrupted by the intrusions
of that portion of the world which is purely com-
mercial. The constant and vast accessions to the
population of the latter city keep society in a
constant state of fermentation, as I have already
mentioned ; and it is not alv/ays easy to tell into
which of its currents or bubblings one has fallen.

* The writer has more than once said, that Philadelphia city con-
tains, at the present day, about 150,000, and New York near
200,000, exclusive of the village of Brooklyn, a suburb on the Long
Island side of the strait or arm of the sea, which must have of itself
quite 12,(/00.

ROUTE BY THE INTERIOR.

407

!;::i

It is more easy to keep pace with the movements
of this tranquil town. With the exception of those
who are literally men of the world, and they are
not numerous, I should say also, that the inherit-
ance of Penn is in a slight degree more provincial
in its habits and manners than the sister city.

Instead of following the river in our route to
Baltimore, we went by a road of the interior.
The first day's journey was through one of the
most highly cultivated and richest agricultural dis-
tricts of this, or of any other, quarter of the world.
The appearance of the country, with the excep-
tions already named, was essentially English,
though I have seen no part of England where
such farm-houses and barns are to be seen as we
met with here. The villages are few, and but
small, though there are two or three market-
towns of some size on the route. The natural
scenery was rather like that of Normandy than
that of England, though the artificial parts were
much in the English taste, always excepting
hedges.

The Susquehannah was crossed by a noble
wooden bridge, which was said to be a mile long.
This was the twentieth of these immense con-
structions in wood, that I have seen since my
landing ; nor are they the snrdllest subjects of
my surprise. The great enterprise and exceeding
ingenuitj^ of the people are here displayed to
great advantage. It is only necessary to discover

408

IMMENSE BRIDGES.

the want of a bridge, or a canal, to ensure an
effort, and commonly a successful one, to bring it
into existence. A bridge a quarter, a half, or even
a whole mile, in length, as is the case with that of
Columbia (across the Susquehannah), is no extra-
ordinary undertaking for the inhabitants of a
country which, forty years before, and often less,
was an entire wilderness. I scarcely know how
to give you a correct idea of one of these avenues
of timber. As they are commonly thrown across
some vast river, or perhaps a lake, on whose
banks the native forest is to be found, the mate-
rial is cheap, and easy to be transported. The
cost, therefore, is in no proportion to the magni-
tude of the work. They are built on different
plans ; some being as rude and simple as possible,
and others forming beautiful models of scientific
skill, and even of taste. T should think a majority
of them are suspended by chains. Some are, how-
ever, suspended by wood, from arches of timber,
that rest either on piers of stone, or on well-secured
foundations of framework. The better sort are
covered, having roofs and even windows ; so that
it often happens that the traveller, perhaps whilst
ruminating on the recent origin of this country,
finds himself journeying through an edifice
which is from a quarter of a mile to a mile in
length.

The state of Pennsylvania possesses a popula-
tion, less identified with the great national cha-

ill

CHARACTER OF THE POPULATION.

409

racter, than any other member of this confedera-
tion. It is computed that about one-third of all
its inhabitants are the descendants of German emi-
grants. They are remarkably tenacious of their
own customs and opinions, and even of their lan-
guage, though the whole are gradually giving way
before the superior influence of the English cha-
racter. I conversed with several of the yeomen
of this description of inhabitants. They spoke
English with an accent as if it were a language
acquired after infancy, and it was easy to trace
a difference in the activity of their thoughts, as
compared with those of most of their countrymen.
I found them, however, possessed of the same
notions of political liberty, which have been so
long established in this country, as to have become
essential ingredients in the characters of all its
inhabitants. I met with others, whose descent
could only be traced in their names ; their man-
ners, language, and opinions, having already un-
dergone the final change.

The existence of so large a body of people, pos-
sessing a language and prejudices of their own, and
living so near to each other, as to render it easy to
perpetuate them all (for a time at least), has not been
without its inconvenience to the state. It is said, that
their hostility to innovation has induced these
people to oppose the introduction of common
schools, a policy which, if much longer persevered
in, is in itself sufficient to throw their community a

! .

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1 1

410

PROPORTION OF THE ENGLISH.

century in the rear of their neighbours. There are
other establishments of the Germans in different
parts of the Union, but none near so wealthy nor
important as the people just named. There are
also the French of Louisiana, the Spaniards of
Florida, and a few Hollanders in New Jersey,
New York, &c. &c. But the whole of these slight
differences in identity of character, are fast dis-
appearing, and it is probable that another gene-
ration will effect their extinction. As near as I
can learn, quite nine millions of the ten who com-
pose the white population of this country are
descendants of the English (Irish and Scotch
included) ; the rest may spring from half the other
nations of Europe, chiefly, however, the Germans,
the Dutch, and the French, and in proportions
agreeably to the order in which they are named.
But of this million, assuming the estimate to be
exact, which in itself is not quite certain, more
than half have probably lost all the distinctive
marks of their origin, if we except those who are
actually Europeans by bixth.*

I do not think one meets as many foreigners
established in this country as the circumstances

* The writer is told that an immense emigration to the United
States has occurred since he left it. One statement says that
22,000 Irish alone, arrived at the City of New York during the last
year. The citizens complain of their riotous and disorderly conduct,
and it is thought some severe remedy will he adopted to cure an
evil that is getting to be serious.

ENTRANCE OF A SLAVE STATE.

411

might give reason to believe. There are par-
ticular places where they assemble, and where
they are rather striking by their numbers, but, \n
the interior, I have frequently travelled days
without meeting with an individual of the sort to
know him.*

Before we quitted the state of Pennsylvania,
there w?s a sensible change for the worse, in the
appearance of the country, and we entered Mary-
land at a poirit but little adapted to give us the

* By the last census of the St?.te of New York there were 40,430
aliensy in a population of 1,616,458. But this enumeration is
liable t-:^ explanation. A native of Europe who has become a
citizen is not an alien, while a native of the United States who is
not a citizen, is. The latter class, though not very important, is
more numerous than one would suppose. There were many natives
who took sides with the crown in the war of 1776, and who still re-
tain their characters of British subjects, being pensioners, &c, &c.
although they prefer to reside, and even to leave their descendants in
the place of their birth. Such persons are aliens of course, in the
eyes of the law. There are others who have come to the country with
an intention to reside, and to establish their children, who are averse
to throw aside their native allegiance. These continue aliens.
There are others, again, who intend to become citizens, but who
have not yet completed the term of probation. In addition to these
explanations, the city of New York receives more emigrants, perhaps,
than all the rest of the United States together, and it is the chosen
residence of foreign merchants established in the country. It may
be well to add, that there were 5,61 0 paupers included in this census
of the state of New York, or about one pauper to every 288 of the
inhabitants. Of this number, 1 ,742 were in the city of New York
alone. A vast number of paupers from Europe are dishonestly
thrown upon the shores of this country.

,1, fc.";

'mm

412

BALTIMORE.

most favourable impressions of the effects of a
slave population. The aspect of things, however,
changed materially for the better as we approached
Baltimore, w.^ose environs, seen as I saw them in
a mild day late in the autumn, when a second
spring so often seems about to open on the vege-
tation of this climate, were as pleasing as those of
any town I remember.

Baltimore is a neat, well-built city, of near
70,000 inhabitants. It contains many excellent
private houses, and some public edifices, in better
taste than common ; but, like Philadelphia, it
wants the gay, animated look which renders New
York so very remarkable. The difference is to
be ascribed to the want of paint, and to the greater
activity of business in the latter place. We found
here, as indeed on most of our recent route, excel-
lent inns, and took up our abode for several days.*

I saw in this city, for the first time since my
arrival, a monument erected to Washington. It is a
noble column, in stone, and is admirably placed

♦ An idea may be formed of the g eat amount of travelling in the
United States, by the size of the inns. One was building in Balti-
more before the writer left America, which promised to exceed in
size any he remembers. The City Hotel, in New York, is a vast
edifice ; and, in a great number of the western villages, the writer
saw taverns that were as large as many of the Paris hotels. In a
country where domestics are never abundant, and are often bad, this
disproportion between the number of the guests and the attendance
is a striking fault.

^^'X*.

ATTEMPT OF THE ENGLISH.

413

on elevated ground, in what is now a suburb,
but which I %elieve it is intended shall one day be-
come a public square. The want of these squares
is a great defect in all the cities I have seen,
though it is one which will soon be repaired. The
plans of most of them embrace more or less areas
of the sort, and some of them are already beginning
to be enjoyed. There is also another monument,
in very good taste, to perpetuate the memory of
those citizens who fell in a skirmish with the Bri-
tish, during the last war, in defence of this city.
The whole number was not great, (some thirty or
forty militia, I believe,) but it was thought their
quality gave them a particular claim on the
gratitude of their townsmen.

You may remember that General Ross, after
his successful attack on Washington, made a
movement threatening Baltimore. Your country-
men possessed an incalculable advantage in the
command of the sea, by means of which they not
only directed their attacks against the most de-
fenceless points, but they were always enabled
to keep their adversaries in an embarrassing ig-
norance of their force. Thus, about the period
of the expedition to Washington, I see, by the
journals of that day, an opinion prevailed in Ame-
rica that England, released from her European
war, had sent Lord Hill against them, at the
head of a large army. It is quite possible that
agents of your commanders were industrious in

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414

ENDS IN A SKIRMISH.

circulating a rumour that seemed so very pro-
bable. The Americans say, that their ignorance
of the force of General Ross alone saved him from
destruction. . '

But Baltimore was a far more important place
than Washington, and time had been given to col-
lect an army of citizens. The whole affair termi-
nated in a hot skirmish between an advanced party
of some two or three thousand Americans, and a
portion of the British army. The former retreated,
as had been expected, but the English commander
lost his life in the rencontre. His successor wisely
abandoned an attempt thai, must have terminated
in the annihilation of his force, which was neither
strong enough to carry the defences of the place,
nor to protect itself against an attack when suf-
fering under reverses, and from an enemy who
would soon have been apprised of its weakness.
A bombardment of a fort, which was defended by
regular troops, proved also totally useless.* >

* It is worthy of remark, and deserving of explanation, that no
attack, of any importance, against an American fort by ships, has
ever been successful, while a great number have been signally de-
feated. The reader of American history is familiar with the affairs
of Fort Moultrie, Fort Mifflin, Fort Bowyer, &c. &c. ; but where is
he to find the reverse of the picture ? The writer has heard more
than one professional man say, it is just as impossible for ships to
reduce forts (under tolerably equal circumstances) as it is for forts
to stop the passage of ships when favoured by wind and tide. This
theory, if true, is consoling to humanity, since one should always
w,ish success to the assailed, especially when they defend a town

RKSIDENCF, AT BALTIMORF.

415

We have been pleased with our residence at
Baltimore. Jt contains a great many polished
and enlightened men ; and, perhaps, there is no
part of this Union where society is more elegant,
or the women hanc'somer. The latter circum-
stance soothed my feelings during the delay of a
fortnight. — Adieu.

against the assaults of hirelings. The exceptions of Algiers and
Navarino prove nothing, since the defenders were semi-barba-
rous ; and at Copenhagen, the victory was over a flotilla rather than
over the batteries. The destruction of the little work on the
Potomac, when the British ascended that river, was clearly an
evacuation and not a defeat, and was decided on from an exagge-
rated notion of the power of the troops in its rear, and not at all in
consequence of the marine attack. It was abandoned at the first
shot.

■I* w r

NOTES.

NOTE A.^PageS.

,1 !

" I OWE you an explanation,^' my friend continued,
after the usual language of civility, " for the little interest
that I have manifested in your persevering attempts to
obtain such English works as may form a preparation for
your intended travels in America. I will make no further
secret of the cause, and when you hear my sentiments on
this matter, I think you will learn those which are com-
mon to a very great majority of my countrymen.

" At the period when I grew into manhood, that bitter-
ness of feeling which had been created in the United States
towards Great Britain, by the struggle of the revolution,
had greatly subsided, in a return of the kindness which
was natural to affinity of blood, and to a community of lan-
guage, usages, and opinions. Our object in the war had
been obtained. When we reverted to its events, it was
rather with exultation than hostility. Scenes of personal
suffering, and perhaps of personal wrongs, were forgotten
in the general prosperity. It is not necessary to ascribe
any peculiar qualities of magnanimity, or of christian
charity, to the American people, in order to maintain that
fewer instances of a generous and miEinly forgetfulness can

VOL. T. E E

J; il

418

NOTES.

be furnished in the history of nations, than what they
.generally manifested towards their former rulers. The
'past presented recollections on which they were not
• ashamed to dwell, while the future was replete with the
most animating hopes. In such an enviable position, a
community, like an individual, must have been odiously
constituted to find pleasure in the contemplation of any
but the brighter parts of human character. We gave the
English credit for the possession of all those virtues, which,
in the weakness of natural vanity, we are fond of ascribing
to ourselves. There were few excellencies on which we
grounded our own national pride, that we were disposed to
deny them. It woukl have been difficult to ascribe
different results to causes whose influence was thought to
be felt by the two nations in common. They were brave,
for they were free ; they were virtuous, for they were re-
ligious ; and they were religious, because we worshipped
before the same altars. In our eyes, there was perfection
in their literature and arts, for if it did not exist there, it
was a stranger to us, since we knew no other. In short,
as our triumph was indisputable, we could afford to forget
the recent feud, and we were fond of cherishing the pre-
sent amity, since, with all the feelings of a reading and
highly civilized people, we delighted in the glory of our
fathers. Had we churlishly denied our connection with
that of England, we should have left ourselves without an
ancestry. So very deeply was this sentiment engrafted in
our opinions, it might almost be said in our natures, that,
with some exceptions that grew out of the opposition of
internal politics, most of our sympathies were with the
English, in the fierce struggle that soon agitated Christen-
dom. We exulted in her successes over the arms of a
people ^ho had lent us their treasure, and shed the blood
of their brave in the quarrel which gave us a rank among

NOTES.

419

tlie nations of the world. A momentary and heedless
enthusiasm, which manifested itself in favour of the
French at the commencement of their revolution, had been
checked in the government by the stcuulness of Washing-
ton, and had early been suppressed in the people, by the
excesses into which the leaders of that revolution suffered
themselves to be hurried. Without reflecting how much
of the merit of evidence must depend on the character of
individuals, we gave credit to the official documents of
England, to the prejudice of all others ; and removed our-
sehes from the necessity of political deception, or of
matured misrepresentation, we refused to believe it could
exist in a people who affirmed what they had to proraulge,
not only in our language, but wUh all those forms with
which we had ourselves so long been accustomed to add
solemnity and weight to the truth. Destitute of a litera-
ture of our own, but rich in the possession of that which
we derived from our ancestors, we were content to submit
our minds to the continued domination of writers, on
whom it was believed that the mantle of Elijah had rested
in virtue of their birth-right. So fai as Europe was con-
cerned, for many years after the peace of 1783, the great
mass of the American people saw with English eyes, and
judged with English prejudices. This was a fearful posi-
tion to be occupied by a nation whose policy is so greatly
controlled by the influence of public opinion. It was one
which could not peacefully continue in the actual condition
of the world.

" To me the gloomy period of 1792 is almost a matter
of history. A mild and reflecting people, who, in their
own case, had known so well how to temper resistance to
oppression, could not long sympathise in the movements of
men who affected to think that liberty could only be propi-
tiated by oblations of innocent blood. Particular services

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420

NOTES.

to ourselves were forgotten in the general offences against
justice and humanity. I have heard that the brief ardour
which had been excited in favour of the French was suc-
ceeded by the coldness of disappointment. It is more than
probable that the reaction hastened the renewal of those
ancient attachments to which I have alluded, and which
certainly existed, in the greatest force, at the time to
which my personal recollections distinctly extend.

"Although the struggles of doinestic politics had, in some
measure, created a sort of oppo'-ition to English supremacy,
it was altogether too feeble to shake the deep-rooted and
confiding faith of the nation. There was so much that was
true blended with a great deal that was ideal in our admira-
tion of English character, and, more than all, there was
so much which, admirable or not, resembled ourselves,
that it was not easy to depreciate its merits. Detractors
were heard, it is true ; but they either declaimed with vulgar
coarseness, or uttered their opinions so feebly, as to leave
reasonable doubts of their own sincerity. This extraor-
dinary mental bondage continued, with no very important
interruption, during the first ten years of the present
century. The amicable feelings of the nation had, indeed,
suffered some violent shocks by the operation of the foreign
policy of Great Britain, the effects of which were as un-
ceasingly proclaimed by one political party of our country,
as were those of the decrees of Napoleon by the other.
But the hostility they created was directed rather to the
English ministry than to the nation. It is no small
evidence of the extent of our prejudice, that, while the
maritime condemnations of the English, though conducted
with all the pomp of gown and wig, were mainly imputed
to the cupidity of individuals, those of Napoleon, which
were effected by a nod of his head and the agency of a few
genscTarmes, were, with as little hesitation, ascribed to

Hi'

NOTES.

421

the established perfidy of the French character ! Had not
England herself disturbed this mental ascendancy, I do
not see any plausible reason why it might not have conti-
nued to the present hour. The jealousy of a sensitive
rivalry, however, began to manifest itself prematurely ;
and as an unreasonable desire of exercising, unduly, her
political dominion over the colonies precipitated a separa-
tion of the two countries, so did her extreme sensitiveness
on the subject of profit hasten a mental emancipation that
might easily have been deferred, until at least the numbers
and importance of the American people had borne them
beyond the possibility of foreign influence. I think that
this jealousy may be divided into two classes — that of cal-
culation, and that of feeling. The quick-sighted and
practised merchants of England were not slow to discover
that there was reason to apprehend a rival in a nation who
possessed, in addition to all their hereditary aptitude and
knowledge, such rare, natural, commercial advantages.
Though not fond of admitting the fact, they could not
deny, even to themselves, that the very absence of personal
restraint, which, by giving energy and interest to the
efforts of individuals, had accumulated the commercial
grandeur of their own empire, was possessed by the infant
republics to a degree that was hitherto unknown in the
annals of the civilized world. The politicians cf England
found leisure, even amid the cares of their great European
struggle, to turn their attention to a subject that is ever
considered by her statesmen with the watchfulness with
which we regard the most remote assaults on the materials
of our existence. Had it not been their present interests
to retain us as customers, it is probable that the efforts of
the English ministry to curtail our growing prosperity,
would have been far more decisive and manifest. It is
thought, too, that for a long time they were deluded with

422

NOTES.

the futile hope of seeing our growing power weakened by
a dissolution of the confederacy ; a movement that would
have left us with all our wants, and with a lessened ability
to furnish them with a domestic supply. There was, also,
a period of political alarm when the aristocracy of En^. land
trembled for its ascendancy. The spectacle of a democratic
government, existing on an extended scale, could not, in
such a crisis, find favour in their eyes. The greater its
success, the greater was its offence against those pro-
phetic opinions which had early predicted its fall. Though
a large proportion, even of the hereditary counsellors of
England, were exclusively occupied with the more mo-
mentous concerns of the hour, or wilfully shut their eyes
on a perspective which presented so few objects of gratifi-
cation, some there were too sagacious and too reasoning
not to see that the dijOPusion of intelligence, to which they
owed their own national supremacy, was in danger of
being exceeded, and that too from a quarter of the world
which they had been accustomed to regard with the com-
placency of acknowledged superiors. Still, circum-
stances beyond their control admitted of no measures
likely to retard the event they deprecated. The states of
America were therefore kept as much as possible out of
view, or were regarded with an indifference in which there
was much more of affectation than of reality. In this
state of things, a deep, settled aversion to America grew
in the minds of that portion of the English community
who possessed sufficient knowledge to be aware of her
existence at all, or who did not believe us a peopk too
insignificant for attention. If there were any exceptions
to this rule, they were no more than the members of a
class of philanthropists which, unhappily, bears, in all
countries, too limited a proportion to the mass of mankind.
In a nation where pens are so active, there is but a brie/

NOTES,

423

interval between the conception of an idea and its publica-
tion. By referring to the daily and periodical journals
of the country, you will find that whenever it was thought
necessary to mention America, it was invariably done in
terms of disparagement and reproach. It is even said that
the government of an empire that boasts itself to be the
most enlightened and magnanimous in the world, not only
employed mercenary pens to vituperate, in periodical
journals of the most pretending character, a people they
aflRected to despise, bul that it sought itinerant circulators
of calumny, who journeyed, or pretended to journey
through our states, in order to discover and to expose the
nakedness of the land. The latter circumstance I am
inclined to discredit, for I cannot think that any Eng-
lish ministry would have had the weakness to bestow
their money where there was so little talent to invite re-
warrl. Of the former I shall say no more than that it is
implicitly believed by many enlightened men in America,
and that if it be not true, it is unfortunate that more ca^e
had not been taken to avoid the grounds of a suspicion that
seems so plausible. Here, then, you have the remarkable
spectacle of two people of a common origin, and possessing,
in common, so many of the governing principles which
decide character and control policy, acted on by directly
contrary influences. While the American was fondly,
and, one might say, blindly clinging to his ancient attach-
ments, his advances were met by jealousy, or repelled by
contempt. Whatever may be the future consequences of
this unnatural repulse, America has no reason to lament its
occurrence. It has already relieved her from the thraldoni
of mental bondage. So generally and so forcibly is this
truth felt, that while the war of '7^ is called the war of
the revolution, that of '12 is emphatically termed the war
of independence. It is beyond a doubt that, as there were

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424

NOTES.

in America men of spirits too lofty, and of an intelligence
too enlightened not to have rebelled against the besotted
dependence of their countrymen on foreign opinion, so
there were in England philanthropists too pure and too
generous not to rejoice in any human prosperity. But
these were no more than exceptions lo those general rale»
which marked the feelings and opinions of the two nations,,
so far as those of England were at all active in the matter.
I say active, for it is certain that, even to this hour, the
great majority of that nation neither think nor care in the
least about a people so remote, and who have never acted
a conspicuous part in the struggles of their own hemisphere.
Indeed, the American, conscious of the possession of physi-
cal advantages which are beyond most of the chances of
worldly vicissitudes, and firm in the belief that he enjoys a
higher state of moral existence than any other people what-
ever, little suspects, even now, how completely his country
h without the pale of European thought. A vigorous and
intellectual population of twelve millions must ever force
itself on the notice of statesmen ; but, could the fact be
ascertained, I do believe it would be found that three out
of four of the inhabitants of Europe not only believe we
are a people of barbarous manners, but that we have, to
say the least, but doubtful claims to be computed among
the descendants of Japhet at all. The proofs of this
opinion have often occurred to me during my travels; nor

are you, my dear , the only European of education,

by a dozen, who has asked me if my flaxen hair and blue
eyes were not deemed a sort of physical anomaly on the
other side of the Atlantic!

" Mr. Hodgson says, he was assured by an intelligent
American, that had a man, like Wiiberforce, travelled
among us, and given to the world a fair and honest ac-
count of the state of society he saw, the war of 1812 would

NOTES.

425

uld

have been averted. There can be but little doubt that
the periodical writers of England dipt their pens too deep
in gall. They overacted their parts, and the consequence
must fall where it may. I can only say, as a citizen of
the United States, who not only loves, but, strange as you
may think it, who glories in his country, that if such were
the power of that excellent friend of humanity, I rejoice
he did not exert it. Though no admirer of the wisdom in
which that war was conceived, nor of the skill with which
it was conducted, I should be blind to palpable truths,
did I not see that it has left my country in the occupancy
of a station more w<^rthy of her real power and true
character, than the equivocal condition from which she
emerged.

" With my opinions, then, of the character of most of
the works which form your travelling library, you cannot
be surprised that I had so little desire to read them. The
contents of most of them, however, are already knotvn
to me. It would be vain to deny that they contaii^
many disagreeable truths, for it would be arrogating to
ourselves a perfection which exists no where, to say that a
traveller of ordinary capacity, who journeys with a view
to find fault, should be baffled of his object in the states of
America, alone. Still, in most of the cases where I am
willing to believe there did exist, on the part of the writers,
a fair pi > (portion of honest intention, there was so much
utter incapacity to judge of a state of society to which they
were worse than strangers, that their opinions can rarely
be considered little better than worthless. It is often said
that we are the subjects of a peculiarly exacting national
vanity, and that nothing short of eulogies will ever meet
with a favourable reception among us. The good opinion
which nations entertain of themselves, is far from being
limited to America, though it is not difficult to understand

,= P

!■'

\if

426

NOTES.

i
I

that our pretensions should be particularly offensive to a
people, who have so long claimed an exclusive right to those
very properties on which we ground our pride. This vanity
is imputed to us, however, chiefly because it is thought
that, in contemplating the future, expectation outruns
probability too far. If it be meant that the people of the
United States anticipate more for their country than what
reason and experience will justify, I do not believe it. On
the contrary, I think that nine out of ten of mankind,
there, as elsewhere, fail in the ability to estimate the pro-
bable, and speedy importance too, of our country in the
scale of nations. Your author, Mr. Hodgson, after a
tolerably close inspection of our means, frankly admits,
that, were he an American, his hopes would greatly out-
strip those of the natives with whom he conversed. But,
if it be meant that the American often fails in manner,
when he is disposed to draw a comparison between the pros-
pects of his own country, and those of other people, I think
nothing is more probable. It is quite evident, that the
greater the truth of these predictions, the heavier is the
offence against the comity of intercourse. A large majority
of those whose voices are loudest on this theme, are men
of a class that, in other nations, would either be too igno-
rant to indulge in any rational speculations on the future
at all, or too much engaged in providing for the wants of
the hour, to waste their breath on a subject that did not
teem with instant profit. But, in what degree is this offence
peculiar to Americans, except as hope is more grateful
than recollection. I have fifty times listened to the most
self-complacent und sweeping claims to national superio-
rity, that were uttered by Englishmen, and by English-
men of rank, too, who should at least have had
the taste to conceal their exultation in the presence of a
foreigner. I apprehend that we are sinned against quite

NOTES.

427

.1 i

as much as we sin in this particular. No gentleman can
deny, that the coarse demands of general superiority are
alike offensive to taste and breeding. They have created
a disgust in the minds of the more intelligent classes, who
often, in the spirit of distaste, oppose the very anticipa-
tions in which they fondly confide, for no other reason
than that they find them oppressive by the freedom with
which they are urged. But vanity is the foible of age in
communities, as it is of youth in individuals. We have
not yet reached that period of national dotage. There is
little in the past, however, of which England can fairly
boast, in which America may not claim to participate. The
arms of our ancestors were wielded in her most vaunted
fields; the geniuses of Shakspeare and Milton were
awakened in the bosom of a society from which we re-
ceived our impressions, and if liberty and the law have been
transmitted to us from the days of Hampden and Bacon,
we have not received them as boons, but taken them as the
portions of a birth-right. Glorious and ample as has been
our heritage, we challenge the keen-eyed and ready criti-
cism of the rest of the world, to decide whether we have
imitated the example of the prodigal son. And yet, if it
be permitted to a people, to value themselves on any thing,
it is surely more reasonable to exult in the cheering pros-
pects of a probable future, than to turn their eyes through
the perspective of recollections, in quest of a sickly re-
nown from the past. The greatness of the ancestor may,
and does often, prove a reproach to him who would claim
a vain distinction from circumstances that he could not
have controlled, while he who looks a-head, may justly
point with pride to the foundations of glory which his own
hand has laid.

" I have said that feeling, no less than calculation, formed
one of the causes of the calumny England has undeniably

!l!

'i'

428

NOTES.

heaped upon America. The operation of this dislike is as
various and characteristic, as were the pursuits and hu-
mours of its subjects. It was an offence against the
geographical sovereignty, which marks England for the
seat of empire, to the prejudice of Scotland, Ireland, and
Wales, to presume to renounce her dominion at all. It
was and is, a constant offence to aristocracy every where,
to exhibit an instance of a prosperous and happy demo-
cracy- we bitter offence against the hierarchical
establishiiiv. t i-f demonstrate that religion and order,
and morah. uiJ exist without its aid; and it was an
offence to the pride ql .hat numerous class, who exulted in
being the bravest, because the freest people of the earth,
to argue at the bayonet''s point, that there was another
quite as brave, who was determined to be a little more
free. To the American, the different expedients which
have been adopted to disprove, or to undervalue these
advantages, are not without amusement. Our government
has been termed imbecile, for no better reason than that it
did not possess the power to suppress evils which have no
existence among us, though it does possess the inestimo/-
ble power of adapting itself to circumstances, without en-
dangering its foundations by the change. Our manners
have been derided, for the simple cause that they differed,
and that too, perhaps, less than might be wished, from
their own, while their own are far from being a model to
the rest of Europe. Our order has been denied, though
it is rarely disturbed, except by the eleves of her own dis-
ciplined system, and our religion scoffed at, though, I
think, a reference to the use of figures would demonstrate
that while (since the separation) their peculiar faith has
been on a comparative decrease among themselves, in con-
sequence of the opposition created by the establishment,
:t has, with iis, been on a comparative increase, because

NOTES.

429

men seldom fail to confess the merits of that which is not
too violently obtruded on their notice.

" But, a more general and far safer method of dispos-
ing of the question of our unworthiness, is by keeping
America entirely out of view. To this hour, and with all
the facts known to the world, one reads every day, in works
and journals of talent and reputation, that England is the
freest among the nations ! You may see her claims to
philanthropy supported by the fact, that she was the first
to destroy the traffic in human flesh ; and her distinguished
statesmen have not hesitated to affirm, in the face of
Europe, that to her is the southern moi y c " our hemi-
sphere indebted, for the original ackno -led- ent of its
national existence ! It is easy to pre 'cv that this is a
manner of disposing of things, which ni / he practised
with more facility in the year 1825 than in the year
1850.

" As respects the work of Mr. Hodgson, I have read it,
with both pain and pleasure. There is satisfaction at all
times, in dwelling on the opinions, though they may prove
erroneous, of a discreet and honest man. As he evidently
seeks the truth, with a desire of proclaiming it, his very
errors are entitled to be treated with respect. Nothing,
for instance, however, is more untrue, than to say that ser-
vice in the revolution forms the chief, or even a very ma-
terial claim to distinction, in our ordinary intercourse.
Society, in America, is constituted precisely as in every
other christian country, breeding, education, family alli-
ances, and wealth, exerting most of their customary in-
fluences. It is more true, certainly, as to political dis-
tinction, though cases abound of individuals who even
opposed the war of '76, but who have not been thought
unworthy of popular favour by their placable countrymen.
He has been thrown, by accident, into a highly respectable

I
ill

430

NOTES.

circle of ancient soldiers, whom he has found in tlie enjoy-
ment of all their native and merited consideration, and he
has mistaken the particular instance for a general rule.
He has not, at least, like most of those who went before
him, passed wilfully over the abundance of order, morals,
religion, and intelligence which eminently distinguishes the
bosom of our community, to seek exceptions in the skirts
of society, which might serve to amuse at home by their
freshness, or to gratify the spleen of our haters by their
deformities.

' " But there are deep sources of pain in finding, by the
confessions of this very writer, how much more inveterate
have been the prejudices of his nation, than even one as
familiar with the subject, as a traveller could have believed.
To nine millions of the population of America, it will appear
incredible, that England has doubted, nay, still doubts,
whether religion or religious instruction exists among them !
1 write under the observation of four visits to England, and
an extensive acquaintance with the habits of my own country,
when I afiii m, that religion, to say the least, is as much incul-
cated, and its prescriptions as rigidly observed, in all thenorth-
ern and middle, and some of the southern states of America,
as in the most favoured quarters of England. It is lament-
able that an error so injurious in its consequences, so false
and so uncharitable in its nature, should have an existence
among men who evidently wish to believe the best. Still,
while as a man, I lament this miserable error, as an Ameri-
can, I do not fear the consequences. Wilful ignorance is
sure to entail its punishment. It has been the misfortune
of England to remain in ignorance of America, and of
American character, from the day when the pilgrims first
touched the rock of Plymouth to the present hour. She
banished our ancestors from her bosom, because they would
not submit to an oppression against which she herself has

NOTES.

431

since revolted. She cumbered our infant efforts with her
vicious legislation, and drove us to a premature majority.
It remains to be seen whether she will have us, in our
strength, as a friend or an enemy. The time for her election
is getting short, and more may hang on the issue than mil-
lions, who exult in their present power, are willing to believe.
The steady, deluded and confiding friend we once were, it
is too late to expect. But a nation which feels no pressure,
and which is conscious of no unworthiness, is neither vin-
dictive nor obdurate. We may be disp)sed to forgive,
though it will be hard indeed to forget. Even the mode-
rated and cautious tone, which is certainly beginning to
prevail among her politicians and writers, is not extended
to the youthful Hercules with the grace that it might have
been offered to the infant in his cradle. We know as well
as herself, that the next duplication of our numbers will
raise us to her own level. Her dominion over our minds
could not have continued, it is true, after we had obtained a
literature of our own ; still the hold might have been
relinquished in amity, and not cast from her in disdain.
But a generation has grown to maturity during the preva-
lence of a miserable infatuation. What a noble promise
for the future has England not jeoparded ! The decline of
empires, though more tardy, is not less certain than that of
man. The w&neof the British dominion might have been dis-
tinguished by features that the world has never yet witnessed.
Her language, her institutions, and her distinctive opinions
are spread wherever enterprise has penetrated. Colonization,
under her reign, has been fruitful and prosperous beyond
a parallel. Mighty nations are rising around her, as gene-
rations succeed generations in the more familiar descent of
families. Wisdom might prescribe a course which would
have secured a devoted friend in every dependant as it was
released from the dominion of the parent. How far that

. 'i

.•*?■■

432

NOTES.

course has been pursued in respect to us, the past and the
present time sufficiently show. Why is Russia already
occupying that place in American politics which England
should have nobly filled ? Why did America choose
England for her foe, when equal cause of war was given
by France, and when the former was certainly most able
to do her harm ? These are questions easily answered by
any man conversant with the state of the public mind in
our nation ; but I shall leave you to make your own ob-
servations.

" I have treated this matter gravely ; for to me it always
seems a subject fraught with the gravest consequences.
The day is not far distant when the conflicting interests of
the two nations shall receive support from equal power.
Whether the struggle is to be maintained by the ordinary
rivalry of enterprise and industry, or by the fiercer con-
flict of arms, depends greatly on the temper of America.
To us the question is purely one of time. The result may
be retarded ; but he is deplorably ignorant of our character,
of our resources, and of our high intentions, who believes
it can ever be averted. That Almighty Being, who holds
the destinies of nations in his hands, must change the
ordinary direction of his own great laws, or the American
population will stand at the head of civilized nations, long
ere the close of this century. It is natural that they who
falsely identify individual happiness with national power,
should rack their ingenuity in quest of arguments that
may refute omens that seem so unpropitious. The most
common, because, in truth, the only plausible antici-
pation is, that our confederation will dissolve. It is re-
markable that England, with her party-coloured empire,
Austria, Prussia, Belgium, Sweden, and even our constant
friend the Russ, should shut their eyes to the fragments of
nations that compose their several powers, and complo-

;;•

NOTKS.

433

fently predict, that wc, ti jjcopleof coninum origin, of com-
mon opinions, of identified interests, and of perfectly equal
rights, should alone be subject to the influence of an un-
natural desire to separate. The people of France itself
are not so thoroughly amalgamated as the {)eople of tiic
United States. The divisions of Catholics and Piotestants
alone, kept alive as they are throughout most of Euroj)e,are
a greater source of hostile feeling than all our causes of dif-
ference united. The fact is, that you are accustomed to
consider the strong arm as the only bond of political
union ; and Europe has not yet had an opportunity of
learning that the most durable government is that which
makes it the interest of every citizen to yield it cheerful
support. I defy the experience of the world to bring a
parallel case of submission to established government,
equal to that manifested by the people of the United
States, to their own restrictive laws — measures of doubtful
policy, and of nearly fatal effects, not to individuals alone,
but to whole communities — and to communities too, that
possessed all the organized means of separate govern-
ments completely within the reach of their hands. That
which constitutes our weakness in European eyes, wc know
to constitute our unconquerable strength. The bayonets
of England could not subdue us, an infant, impoverished,
scattered, and peaceful people ; but could she have yielded
a moiety of the rights we now enjoy, we might have been
persuaded, for a time longer, that our interests tied us to
a nation in the other hemisphere. And, after all, admit-
ting that we shall separate, the case, with respect to Eng-
land, will not be greatly altered. Instead of having 6ne
mighty rival in industry and enterprize, she will have
two. The issue will be protracted, but not averted. The
main question is, whether that rivalry shall consis'^ in man-
ful, honourable, and amicable efforts, or in bitt -, vindic-

VOL. I. F F , '

434

NOTES.

live, heartless warfare. Every good man will wish the
former, but every wise man must see how great is the dan-
ger of the latter. More than ordinary prudence is neces-
sary to temper a struggle between nations, which, by
speaking a common language, so thoroughly understand
each other''s taunts and revilings. I do not pretend to say
that the American, under a consciousness of similar inno-
vations on his pride and his privileges, would be either
more wise or more generous, than the Englishman has
proved : but I do say, that it behoves the discreet and
moderate of both nations to take heed, lest the growing
dislike should degenerate into a feeling that may prove
discreditable to human nature. There is, however, much
mawkish philanthropy uttered on this subject. For my
own pait, I believe the fault of America has been that of a
too cautious forbearance. Had we earlier spoken in the open
and manly tone that becomes us, much of the miserable re-
crimination that I fear is in store would have been avoided.
Still, we begin to feel, that while England has nearly ex-
hausted her darts, our own quiver is full. Sne forgets
that, when we achieved our independence, we conquered an
equal right to the language ; and she ought not to be sur-
prised if we should sometimes descend to adopt her own
mode of using it. No doubt vulgar and impotrait minds
have already commenced the pitiful task of recrimina-
tion : nor can it be denied that men of even higher stamp
have been provoked to a forgetfulness of their self-respect,
by the unceasing taunts and revilings of our unwearied
abusers ; but if the latter think that they have yet felt
the force of our retorts, they have only to continue in
their career to be soon convinced of their error. If
England believes she is not obnoxious to the attacks of
sarcasm, it is not the least of her mistakes ; and nothing but
occasion is needed to convince her that no one can apply

NOTES.

435

it, in her case, with hdif the malignant power of those
very people she aifects to despise.

** At present, the feeling in America, in respect to
England, is rather that of indifference, than of dislike.
We certainly do not worship her government ; if we
had, we should probably have adopted it; but we are
far from being so unreasonable as to require that she
should like our own. I know no people that trouble
themselves less about the political concerns of other
nations than my countrymen. It may be vanity, but
they think they have little to learn, in this particular, ex-
cept of themselves. There is, notwithstanding, one great
and saving quality, which, if we are wrong, should plead
something in extenuation of our self-delusion ; we are
neither ashamed nor afraid to change.

" When an Englishman tells us of our common descent,
of the ideal homage we should both pay to the land and
institutions of our ancestors, he is heard with cold and
incredulous ears; we are no worshippers of stocks and
stones. A little extension of his principle would carry
us into the ages of monkish misrule, or leave us in
the plains of Saxony. But when an Englishman speaks
to us of those moderated and chastened principles which
charr.cterize our religion, and refers to that mighty
Spirit which inculcates the obligations of universal charity,
he approaches by an avenue that is open to all, and
which I pray God may never be closed against him, or
any other of the children of men.

" As to the generation that must pass away before our
strength shall entirely equal that of our great relative, there
is little cause for apprehension. England has already
done and said her worst. We dread her power as a
veteran dreads the whizzing of bullets ; he knows the
deadly messengers may do him harm, but the sound is far

F F 2

'Bi

',:!■

430

NOTES.

too familiar to excite alarm. Let those who believe Eng-
land more powerful now than she was fifty years since,
ask themselves whether she can repeat her efforts ? — let
those who wish to think of America in 1824, as they did
in 1^^6, approach like yourself, and make their own ob-
servations.

"I should describe the difference between the treatment
which the American receives in England, and that which
the Englishman receives in America, as being very marked.
Notwithstanding all that has passed, we admit the English-
fran freely and cordially into our houses, and I think we
treat him, even now, rather as a distant relative than as an
alien. There is so much natural interest in the feeling
which induces us to listen curiously to accounts of the
country of our fathers, that it may still require time to
lose it altogether. Almost every English traveller in
America (who has published) admits the cordiality and
kindness of his reception. Though this acknowledgment is
commonly made with some such flourish as — ' we found the
name of Englishman a general passport,' it is not the less
an acknowled ^ment of the fact. What is the other side
of the picture ? Remember that I do not speak of excep-
tions, but of rules ; not of men whom good fo? tune, or
merit, or caprice, or fashion, or curiosity, or any other
cause, has made the objects of attention ; nor of those whose
goodness of heart, ana laudable desire to study character as
it is exhibited in nations as well as in individuals, excite to
kindness ; but of those of my countrymen who travel as a
body, and of those Englishmen who ordinarily receive
them as guests in their own island.

" In the first place, an American has evidently to over-
come a dislike to be received at all. This circumstance is
betrayed to us in a thousand ways. The first and most
common is an evident desire to avoid us. It is betrayed to

NOTES.

437

le is
lost
to

us by foreigners, who tell us distinctly of the fact ; and
it is betrayed to us by the very manner in which their
civilities are offered when circumstances induce them to
depart a little from their customary reserve.
. " The reception of an American in England is not without
amusement. I shall say nothing of the honest, blustering-
hospitality of that class in whom prejudice cannot always
repress kindness, (especially if profit be in view) ; but my
remarks are now made on a class who have no direct
gain before their eyes. These good folk are prodigious
patronizers. Nothing makes them so happy as to get an
American, and to show him that they are not above treating
him as an equal; and in order that the poor foreigner
should have no excuse for denying the condescension, they
neglect no opportunity of exhibiting it. These people are
every moment giving you solemn assurances that they are
above the vulgar prejudices of the rest of the world, and
perhaps you are gravely told that the party despises
the theory which says physical nature is not so perfect in
America as in Europe, by an individual who is gravely look-
ing up in your face at an angle of forty-five degrees. One of
the best bred, natural, and easy women that I met in Lon-
don was a countrywoman of my own. A very cosmopolite
took occasion to compliment me on the subject ; but, pro-
bably fearing he had said too much, he concluded by
telling me that ' she had been caught young !' On
another occasion I wcs assured, in the presence of twenty
people, that a countryman of my own * could not have
been a finer gentleman than he was had he been educated
in London or Paris !' An American lady was dancing in
the midst of fifty Englishwomen, and her performance
was so creditable, that I was led to believe by a bye-
stander, that he saw no difference in her grace and that of
the belles of his own island ! I should be ungrateful

■:>}

'?;

438

NOTES.

indeed not to acknowledge the polished liberalitjr of sm:h
concessions, which, I candidly assuij you, exceeds* dRy
thing in the same way I ever heard in my own country-
But these are cases to be laughed at : I am sorry to say
that others occur, in whicli indignation destroys the spirit
of merriment.

" Now, all this is exceedingly absurd and very pitiful.
Heaven knows that every rational American is willing
enough to admit what time, and money, and learning have
done for Europe ; nor do I think, unless provoked by su-
perciliousness, that we are too apt to remind her possessors
of what they have not done. But it is lamentable that
the truly high breeding and excellent sense of those who
do possess these qualities in an eminent degree, in Eng-
land, cannot look down the overweening character of so
manyof the nation. That they do not, my own experience,
and the observations of every intelligent man, will show.
I do not say, that if we were the old, and proud, and suc-
cessful people, that we should discover better taste, deeper
humility, or more candour ; but this I do know, that being
the people we are, we are not likely to submit quietly to
the exhibition of an unnamed superiority in others. These
things must be changed, ov iDe growth of the feeling to
which I have already alluded, appears to me to be
inevitable. Hundreds of American travellers are in
Europe at this hour. Each year increases the number, as
it increases their influence on the tone of the public mind
at home. Perhaps nine out of ten, place their feet on the
land of their ancestors with a feeling in its favour ; and I
am firmly persuaded, that, from the causes I have named,
nine out of ten leave it with satisfaction, and return to it
vidi reluctance. The same individuals quit France, Italy,
Russia, Switzerland and Germany, with kind and friendly
recollections. En'^land and the United States are placed

NOTES.

439

in situations t^^ make them respectful cciypetJtcs, or
downright haters. Ijov^c does not more infallibly beget
love, than dislike creates dislike. I honestly think we
are, as yet, substantially the defendants in this war
of inuendos. We have certainly returned abuse for
abuse, and as coarsely and as vulgarly, and frequently
as ignorantly, as it has been bestowed ; but there is
nothing in our resentment which wears the aspect of
settled and calculating hostility. I think our people have
been wrong : they have often met calumny with depreca-
tion, when they would have better shut its mouth by
exhibiting spirit. We never got any thing from England
in the way of petition or remonstrance ; but we have
obtained a glorious empire by resolution- I am no advo-
cate for vindictive and vulgar recrimination ; but I think
the nation or the individual who would maintain his
proper position, must take justice and self-respect for his
guides, and care as little as possible for others.

" It would be as disgusting as it is unprofitable, to
descend into the paltry details of the manner in which preju-
dices and contempt are fostered in England against America
Some itinerant hears a gross expression from the lips of a
vulgar man in New York, or a horrid oath in the mouth of
some blasphemous boatman on the Mississippi, and they
are instantly transferred to the pages of orks like the
Quarterly, and half a dozen others similai to it, as speci-
mens of American manners ! Do those who preside over
the publications in question, believe that the art of objur-
gation is unknown in their own country I can tell them
from close observation, that sentences are daily and hourly
uttered in London itself, which, though they may want,
and commonly do want, the miserable ingenuity of those
they quote, fail in none of the blasphemy. * Pretty con-
siderable,'' is always dignified with italics ; > . id the President

:hi

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irj

If' i

^t.

440

NOTES.

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■»*S*

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of the United States is lucky if it be not interpolated into
his annual message ; but it may appear, as it does appear,
in page 64, lines 6 and 7) <>f the famous Reflections on the
French Revolution, by the Right Hon. Edmund Burke,
in Roman insignificance !

" It behoves the wise, and the principled, and the good of
the two nations, to put a stop to feelings which can so easily
give rise to all that is disagreeable. But truckling is not
wisdom in us, nor is condescension politeness in them. We
must meet at all times, and in all places, as equals : not in
concessions, that are wrung by policy, oi perhaps by a still
less worthy motive; but as mortals, who have but one nature
and one God. Uutil this shall be done, and not till
then, it is vain to expect the least revival of the feeling
that might arise from a common parentage and common,
principles. I have reason to think I do not stand alone, in
this opinion, by millions. The time is near, I had almost
written frightfully near, when two nations, who thoroughly
unvlerstand each other''s viti^jjerations, shall support a
delicate rivalry by equc*l power. That crisis is to be passed
ere the danger of the malady shall abate. For one, I can
say, in all sinceritv , that i hope it may be done in peace ;
but I shoiOd be blind to the effect of natural causes, did I
not see that it is a period attended with alarm. It is a
thousand pities that the goodness of heart, and the secret
S3anpathles which bind the lovers of humanity together,
should be smothered by the grosser and more active pas-
sions of '■ Uti world ; but nature and self-preservation point
to only one ,. iurse when the appeal is seriously made to
thepatricl. it is by this unfortunate supremacy of the
coarser passions of life, that the best men eventually get
enthralled in the mental tyranny of prejudice and hostility.
" You wiP- perceive by what is here written, that words
and empty profession pass but for little in my poor estimate

■.''S

NOTES.

44 ^

.'.k

of liberality. If I know myself, an Englishman is regarded
as any other man. When I find him, as I am happy to say
I have found hundreds, benevolent, kind of heart, and liber-
ally enlightened, he even draws nearer to my sympathies
than any other foreigner ; but the instant any of the quali-
ties mentioned above, are discovered, distrust, coldness,
and, not unfrequently, unconquerable disgust, succeed.
There is no other object in mentioning i.ry own instance,
except as it goes to prove what is the feeling of an indi-
vidual who has never been the subject of any peculiar
causes to make his case different from that of the mass of
his nation. I believe it is the state of mind of a vast
majority of that portion of my countrymen who are
brought much in collision with the natives of Great Britain.
But these sympathies may be blighted too often. It is
vain to say, that the mass of mankind are ignorant, and
prejudiced, and obstinate, while you cannot add that they
are impotent. Men act and feel, they war and they destroy,
in masses ; and it is as bodies, and not in their insulated
exceptions, that they must be viewed.

" But I dery that the prejudice of England against
America is limited to the ignorant, though I am willing to
admit, and admit it I do with unaffected pleasure, that
there are many and manly exceptions. Still, a deep, settled,
ignorant, and, I think, an increasing hostility, to the people,
the institutions, and, I fear, to the hopes of the United
States, exists in the minds of a vast majority of the mid-
dling classes. I use the term middling in an intellectual, no
less than in its ordinary, acceptation. It is not a month since a
friend of mine accidentally met a clergyman's daughter, of
good manners, of a naturally kind heart, and of great general
good sense, who manifested this temper in an extraordinary
degree. Chance introduced the subject of America, and
it is scarcely possible to describe the quality of her abuse,
which knew no other bounds than what propriety of sex.

'i • i

"11 1
n 1

i I

442

NOTES.

and some little respect for condition, would impose. On
inquiry, it appeared that this lady (for she was not at all
unworthy of the appellation) had never known an Ameri-
can in her life ! She had listened too eagerly to misrepre-
sentation and caricature ; and, perhaps, her very intelli-
gence added to her spleen, by giving the alarm to her
patriotism. But the progress of a great nation is not to
be stopped by angry words.

" Y ou may be inclined to ask if the American is not often
guilty of the same weakness ? No doubt he is — though
always with this marked difference : he disputes, and often
denies the claims of England, in this or that particular ;
he is disgusted with certain usages, and does not scruple
to say so ; he laughs at the self-delusion of her poets and
dramatists ; but he does not deny her general right to be
considered among the greatest nations of the earth. While
he sees and acknowledges, and has often felt the equality of
her courage, and morals, and enterprise, he confesses no
superiority, because, in simple truth, it has no existence.
I do not ever remember to have heard one of my country-
men, however ignorant or vulgar, refuse to admit an
EngVshman to most of the merit of being a sufficiently
oivildzed man ; but it would be quite easy to produce
printed evidence, in works of character, to show that there
is no reciprocity in even this doubtful degree of liber-
ality.

" I shall close this long, and, I fear, tiresome note, by
writing still more frankly. I have heard a great deal of
professions of amity and kindness towards America, during
my recent visit to England. I feel that no man has a right,
to distrust declarations that come from fearless and honest
natures. For my own part, I give credit to the sincerity
of the individuals who have made them. But when these
declarations come, as they so often do come, openly and in
l)rint, accompanied by sneers, and misrepresentations, and

NOTES.

443

caricatures, it would exceed the ordinary bounds of human
vanity to yield them faith. In order that no misconcep-
tion may exist on this head, I beg leave to direct your
attention to the Quarterly Review, a publication which,
erroneously or not, is said to enjoy a particular degree of
the favour of those who control the policy of England.
Will any honest or candid man say, that the spirit and
language of this journal is conciliatory ? If the English
nation wish to cherish an amicable temper with America,
this is not the way to effect their object. One is often at
a loss to arrive at the spirit which dictates these mongrel
essays. Are their writers so ign(irant of human nature, as
not to know, that while one taunt will be remembered, a
thousand qualifying commendations will be forgotten ? If
they are written for the English nation, do they not prove
the existence of the temper I have described ; and if they
are written for the American, is it believed that we shall
take our political creed from known rivals ? If peace
between England and America be an object — and God
knows, I consider it an object of deep and momentous
concern — ^it is not to be preserved by means like these.
There is one question alone, which must always endanger
the harmony of the two nations. I mean the q^uestion of
impressment. So long as this delicate and important point
remains at issue, England cannot war with any other
power without creating a fearful risk of drawing America
into the controversy. There exists no longer in the United
States, a blind and infatuated party to uphold a foreign
people in the support of a doctrine that is as untenable by
common sense, as it is insulting to the sovereignty of an
independent nation, and this is a question, therefore, that
can only be disposed of by great conciliation and mutual
forbearance. But, admitting that the administration of
the United States should be disposed to cede a little, for a

'li

444

NOTKS.

time, to |M)licy, until our sinews shall be still better
strung, Heaven be praised, the American administration
can do nothing against the feeling and declared will of the
American nation. Kind words cost but little. He who
does not choose to use them, cannot expect to have hi»
joke and keep his friend. It may be very pleasant to laugh
at the honest and sincere anticipations of a people whose
hopes have never yet been deceived ; but it would be far
wiser to consider what are called the boastful exaggerations
of the Americans, as so many indications of the spirit with
which the vast power they are so shortly and so inevitably
to possess, will be wielded. People may not, and do not
like to hear of these things ; but I appeal to the candour
of any honest man, if we tell them as often, as plainly,
and as forcibly as provocation and superciliousness would
justify ; nay more, I do not think we tell them ourselves
as often as they are betrayed by the jealousy of others.
We live in the quiet of a reasonable, and, I hope, of a
grateful security. There is one feature in the intercourse
between all Europeans and Americans that should never be
forgotten. The former proceed on the assumption of pre-
mises which were once true, are now false, and will shortly
be absurd ; and they talk on quietly, with an air of
superiority, of which, half the time, they are unconscious
themselves — while the American is thought an arrogant
innovator if he pretend even to equality.

" Turning from this picture of irritating and jealous con-
tention, one scarcely knows where to seek the antidote to
the poison which is thus insidiously infused into the two
nations. It can only be found in the high principles and
good sense of the religiously disposed, and of the en-
lightened. The former class may endure and deprecate,
for their office is meek and holy charity ; but it may be well
questioned, if the knowledge of man and worldly wisdom

XOTKS.

445

do not tell the intelligent American, that his nation has
already forborne too long. When are we to expect the ter-
mination of these constant appeals to our forbearance, or
when are we to look with confidence to the hour in which
misrepresentation and calumny shall cease ? I refer you to
the Vllth Number of the Quarterly Theolog al Review
and Ecclesiastical Record, a work devoted to the pro-
mulgation of christian dot^trines, as a striking evidence
of the temper which pervades so much of England on the
subject of America. It is vain to say, that the sermon it
affects to review is any justificatitm of the language it
contains. There is nothing in that sermon but what a
minister of God had a perfect right to teU his people. But
it seems our Bishop is accused of having left an erroneous
opinion of his sentiments behind him in England. I hope
his successors will profit by the hint, and dei'l a little
more frankly, though it should be done at some expense of
politeness. If any thing can serve to make the sweeping and
ridiculous charges of this review more absurd, it is the well
known fact, that millions in Great Britain pine to enjoy the
distant advantages of the very regions the writer affects to
undervalue. It is no small refutation of a large portion of
the calumny heaped upon us, that no work, pretending to
a religious character, could publish such gross exaggera-
tions of any other people, in America, without meeting
its punishment in the powerful rebuke of a community
that knows well how to distinguish between the profes-
sions and the duties of Christianity. '
" But I have no wish to pursue the ungrateful subject
further. If we do not recriminate and assail, it is not for
want of means, but for want of inclination. All of our
travellers in England have as yet been Hodgsons (at
least in temper) ; and it is worthy of remark, that while so
many English have been journeying in America, to ridi-

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446

NOTES,

cule, to caricature, and to misrepresent, not a single
American of the thou^jtnds who daily visit and have
visited England, has, to my knowledge, ever undertaken
the office of retaliation. I shall not offend your good
sense, by pretending you do not know how easy the task
would become, to an American who had the disposition
and the talents for its — I had almost written duty.

*' I have treated this matter more gravely than the secu-
rity and indifference of most Americans would induce
them to believe necessary. But to me there seems a dan-
ger in the subject that my countrymen, who now openly
laugh at these ' paper bullets,** do not always see. It is
plain to me, that immense numbers in England have a
secret presentiment that there is great danger of a war
between the two countries. I take the often repeated dis-
claimers of a wish for hostilities to be a bad omen. No man
in America, thinks at all on the subject. I do affirm that
I have heard more said about war in the last four weeks in
England, than in the last four years that I passed at home.
I think one can trace easily the cause of this difference
of feeling. We are passive, for we have neither distrust
nor jealousy. We know we are moving steadily to our
object, and we think or care little about what other people
wish or contemplate. I do not believe that two grave and
thinking nations will ever enter into hostilities on account
of pasquinades ; but pasquinades can produce a state of
feeling that may render it difficult to overcome serious
obstacles to peace. That these obstacles have arisen, and
that they will constantly continue to arise, good men may
lament, but prudent men must foresee.

" Having very probably wearied you, my dear ,

with a subject in which you may not feel as interested as
myself, you have a right to some advice concerning those
preliminary investigations on which you are so merito-

NOTES.

447

riously inclined. I scarcely know a book to which I can
refer you. Most of the travels are next to worthless.
Even statistical works are liable to so much explanation, in
a country where changes are so rapid, that they are apt t^
mislead. For this simple reason, no book, for a long time
to come, can be deemed a standard work. It is found dif-
ficult, with the utmost industry, for even the geographies
to maintain their places in the schools. What is true
to-day, may, where so much activity prevails, become
erroneous to-morrow. It is a common saying, that an
American who remains five years abroad, gets behind his
country. There are many and lamentable proofs of its
justice. It would have been just as safe for the Austrians
to beUeve Napoleon at Turin this week, because he was at
Milan the last, as it would be exact to calculate that
America is the same the present as she was found the pre-
ceding year. A population that, in our infancy, amounted
to three millions, has already swelled to twelve, and thou-
sands are now in being who will live to see it fifty ! All
other changes have kept equal pace with the unprecedented
and nearly incredible growth of our numbers.

<< You will find, in the British Annual Register, a suffi-
ciently correct history of the war of the revolution. It is
often coloured in matters that may touch the national
pride; but is written with far too much. talent to be vul-
garly illiberal. Many of the private memoirs of that
period, English, French, and American, have merit as well
as interest for those who are disposed to seek it on so trite
a subject : but Marshall, with all his faults of arrangement,
for candour, manliness, and judicious weighing of testi-
mony, is a model for all histories. His opportunities, too,
for obtaining the truth have probably never been equalled
by any other historian. For books of a later date, I
scarcely know where to refer you. The little episode of

448 '" ]' ■

. V -; NOTES.

. t

Anquetil on the American war, is wonderfully erroneous
He confounds names, dates, and events, in a manner that is
inexplicable. He is not alone in saying that the mistress
of Washington had betrayed his secrets ! Nothing can be
more absurd than to suppose any woman had the power of
betraying the secrets of one so wise, unless it be to suppose
that womun was his mistress. A more profound ignorance
of the man, or of the people by whom he was entrusted,
cannot easily be imagined. After all, you have chosen the
only course by which a tolerably correct idea of America
can be obtained. You will labour under one disadvantage,
however, of which it is impossible to get rid in years. An
, European can scarcely spare sufHcient time to acquire the
simplicity of habits, may I also say, simplicity of thought,
necessary to estimate our country. There is no people of
whom a superficial knowledge is so soon gained, for they
are communicative and without suspicion ; but long fami-
liarity is required to judge of a nation so eminently practi-
cal, and so universally influenced by common sense. Of
one thing you may be assured, that nothing I can bestow
shall be wanting to make your visit both pleasant and pro-

fitable. And now, my dear

&c. &c.

.♦ ■•

:*^

NOTES.

449

>»,• : :.

• i

,^ • T

NOTE B.—Page 22.

** What effect did the general hostilities of Europe, from
1792 to 1814, produce on the maritime spirit or on the na-
vigation of your country ; and what was the counteracting
influence of the retaliating measures of the belligerents,
of your own restrictive laws, and of the war of 1812 P'""

" As to maritime spirit, I should answer, none. The
American has ever shewn an inclination to the sea, and
perhaps there is no branch of his industry and profit that
he would abandon with greater reluctance. You will find
the proofs of this disposition in history, in his professional
skill, in the restless enterprise of the national character,
and in the sagacity of the people, which is not likely to
admit of their being cajoled into an impression that they
do not comprehend their own interests. The long neutra-
lity of the Americans certainly added to the wealth of the
nation, and enableO its merchants to increase their tonnage
to a comparatively enormous amount. In 1810, when
the population of the country but a little exceeded
7,000,000, there were more than 1,400,000 tons of ship-
ping under the American flag. After allowing for errors
and frauds, both of which existed at that period to some
extent, this was making one ton to every five souls. To
equal this ratio. Great Britain should possess a tonnage of
near five millions, and France one of six, and that without
computing the inhabitants of their dependencies. But,
great as was the effect of this neutral character on America,
it was by no means equal to that which would have been
produced by her natural advantages to profit by such a

VOL. I.

(i G

4;ji)

XOTF.S.

position, had not tlie contest been marked by a singular
disregard of the estab.'shed usages of the world. Tlie
" orders in council" of the English, and the " decrees" of
the French, are not unknown to you. Under the opera-
tions of those novel principles of belligerent rights, more
than sixteen hundred sail of American vessels were cap-
tured or sequestered by the English, French, Spaniards,
Danes, and Neapolitans. Of this number, near a thou-
sand were condemned, and, with their cargoes, entirely lost
to the nation. These captures occurred during the enjoy-
ment of oui- neutral character ! The restrictive laws, a
measure of our own forbearing policy, followed these
heavy losses, and, for near two years, the foreign trade of
the country was entirely abandoned. To these again suc-
ceeded a war of near three years, with a nation which com-
manded the sea, which had little else to do on that element
but to annoy our trade, and which, for much of the time,
had no other enemy. To all these checks, which, in 1814,
had reduced the navigation of the country to about one-
twentieth of what it had been seven years before, succeeded
the general peace, a period when each community returned
to the enjoyment of its own peculiar advantages. If we
put the short and nominal interruption to the peace, that
was occasioned by the return of Napoleon, as a set-off to
the additional year that the American war continued, we
^an suppose all the nations to have re-entered the lists of
commercial enterprise together. The result is known to
you. Though America has not regained her former ratio
of tonnage, (a thing not to be expected during a general
peace,) she has become again, compared with her popula-
tion, the most maritime nation of the earth. When one
coolly reflects on the shocks she sustained in her wealth,
the long continuance of the restrictions she endured, and
her infancy, the impression must be irresistible that there

N'OTK.s.

451

eral
ula-
one
,1th,
and
here

exists, cither in the spirit of her people, or in the resources
of America, or in both, an operating cause to produce
these effects, which is to be found no where else. Does
any man believe that there is a single nation in Europe
that could have recovered »o s(X)n from similar shocks ?
The restoration of the convalescent child to its pristine
powers, is not more strongly contrasted to the lal)oured and
feeble efforts of age, than is the elasticity with which
America recovers from political pressure to be compered to
the cumbered efforts of the older and more artificial com-
munities of Europe.'"''

" What effect is the continuance of peace likely to pro-
duce on the navigation of your country ?''''

" Peace will of course change, indeed it has already, in
8ome measure, changed the direction of our commerce.
We are now placed, as regards mere privilege, on a level
with other nations. That we are more than equal to main-
tain the competition, wherever trade is conducted on prin-
ciples of reciprocity, is manifest by the fact that we
conduct so large a proportion of the intercourse between
ourselves and the rest of the world. The main result
is already to be seen in existing facts ; though it is unde-
niably in the power of other countries to throw embarrass-
ments in our way, just as it is in our power to adopt mea^
sures of retaliation. It is useless to carry this investigation
into details, since the minute policy of nations to-day may
differ so much from that of to-morrow. It appears to me
that the question of the increase of our navigation is alto-
gether one of degree. That it must continue to increase
is just as capable of demonstration as the facts that it has
increased, and does increase, are notorious. Let us look,
for instance, at a branch of the trade that is almost without
exception within our own control. On examination it will
be seen, that while the foreign commerce of the United

452

NOTES.

States has vacillated with the changes of external causes,
the trade coast-wise has been regularly, and, I might add,
naturally, on the increase. In America, the vessels which
are employed in the intercourse between one state and
another, or, in fact, between one port and another, are
enumerated in a different class from those which sail for
ports without the country. The former are known as
registered, and the latter as licensed vessels. The dif-
ference in name is owing to the difference in the document
which gives to each its respective character. In all other
respects the employments are the same. When the desti-
nation of the vessel is changed, it becomes necessary to
change the evidence of character. Now, in 1790, the
licensed tonnage of the country amounted to 103,775 tons.
It exceeds, at the present hour, this amount by seven fold.
The increase has been remarkably regular, and is always
in a ratio rather exceeding that of the popi/' m of the
country.*

" The most rational way of anticipating the future state
of our commerce by the past, is to consider the ratio of the
increasing wants of the country in connection with the
effects which repletion, if I may so term it, never fails to
produce on the moral no less than on the physical system.
So long as the animal is in a state of growth, ample suste-
nance tends to aid that growth, by keeping the frame
equal to its utmost powers of development ; but as matu-
rity approaches, excessive nourishment gradually begins
to defeat its own object. There are also points in the
development of the resources of all communities, where
calculation must become subject to the re-actions of a state
of rest, and of a retrogradation, just as in the animal

* The reports of 1826, raise the tonnage of the United States to
1,534,000 tons, of which more than 800,000 are in the coasting
trade and fisheries. . ,

NOTKS.

453

system allowances were to be made for a condition of
infant vigour. Should we assume, for a rule, the past
ratio of the increase of our coasting trade, and with
the exception of the last few years, it has iiitherto been
exceedingly regular, we shall have, nudtiplying the
present amount by seven, a total of near five millions for the
licensed tonnage of the country in the year 1H60. Under
a general impression of its improbability, the mind rejects
this enormous amount as exaggerated, and, no doubt,
with some reason. If we take the positive growih of the
past without any reference to its comparative rate of
increase, it will require another thirty years to add another
600,000 tons to this branch of our trade. But as the
United States are still in the course of a vigorous and
healthful development of their resources, there are those
who would reject the principle of this manner of estima-
tion, however they might be satisfied with its result. If
we take the known rate of the increase of our population as
a guide, we shall have a licensed tonnage of about 1,500,000
in the year 1850. With these facts in view, you are
nearly or quite as well qualified to judge of this matter as
myself, though all conjecture on the subject must neces-
sarily be made under a sense of the mutability of human
affairs. In order to form an opinion of this branch of
trade, however, and of its effects on the maritime character
of the nation, you will remember that the voyages are made
in vessels of from ten tons, to those of five hundred, and
that they are from twenty miles in extent to two thousand.
Now, this trade is all our own, and can never be materially
invaded, during peace, by the policy of any other people.
It is in itself such a germ of nautical power as exists no
where else, unless it may be in England, where it exists at
all times subject to the dangers of colonial discussions and
conflicting interests. In short, it is such a healthful, safe,

4r,i

N'OTKS.

and increasing source of commerce, a8, I think, can never
be long e({iialled by the intercourse between principal and
dependant."

'* What effect will maniifactureH be likely to produce on
the maritime character of your people ? how far will the
cheapness of land have a tendency to divert your {M)pula-
tion from the ocean, and what will be the ]}robable influ-
ence of the inland states in ()])posing the commercial, or
navigating interests of the maritime ?"

" These are questions often asked ; but the two first of
them, at least, might be answered by the results of all
experience. Men navigate ships for precisely the same
object that they manufacture goods. They do both to
enrich themselves, or to prevent want. It is a go<Kl reason
why the islander should go to sea, that he can do nothing
better ; but it is just as good a one, that the inhabitant of
a continent should do the same thing, because he can do
nothing else half so profitable. Men can be led as well as
driven. Now, the American long ago made the discovery
that, notwithstanding the high price of labour in his
country, as he can sail a ship cheaper than others, he is
likely to reap most emolument in turning his attention to
the sea. In consequence of this discovery, the nation has
become maritime ; and it will undeniably continue mari-
time so long as there is profit to be derived from navigar-
tion. Land was cheaper thirty years ago than to day, and
yet our citizens left it to earn their money on the water.
The ship-master who gains three or four hundred dollars a
year on his farni, rents it, and goes to sea to earn a thou-
sand, and the labourer prefers twelve dollars a month to
eight. The very cheapness of land, by lessening the value
of its products, assists to create this state of things. As
the population increases, the relative prices of labour will
necessarily diminish, until the time shall come when men

NOTES.

455

will go to sea in America, as elsewhere, because they can
do nothing else. There is, however, another cause which
must never be lost sight of, when one reasons on the
inducements which tempt men to quit the land for the water.
I mean the restlessness of moral excitement. This cause
is more active in America, where the labouring classes read
more, and hear more of adventure than any where else. It
is true, that possibly one third of the common seamen
employed in the foreign trade of America are foreigners ;
this fact is not, however, owing to any indisposition to the
sea on the part of the natives, but to the superabundance
of the supply in Europe, and the higher inducements
which the American ship-owner is able to offer for labour.
Nearly, or perhaps quite, in the pro|H)rtion, however, as
strangers come to us, do our own pe pie go abroad. The
American sailor is to be found all over the world, and
wherever he is known, he is liked for his cleverness, and
generally for his comparatively quiet habits. There is no
political truth more certain in America, than that all
demands will meet with its supply. To those who are
familiar with the subject, it is often a matter of surprise
to witness how infallibly, and how soon an extraordinary
demand for labour produces a glut in a country where
every thing is more abundant than man. It is not unusual
for artisans or day-labourers to be informed of these
demands, by means of the public prints, and for ad-
venturers to be seen undertaking journeys of hundreds of
Indies, not to provide against want, but in order to reap the
utmost possible emolument from their personal efforts. In
this particular, no parallel can be drawn between America
and any other country, since no other country possesses
such varied and cheap means of intelligence and communi-
cation, nor a population sufficiently active and intelligent
to profit by them. As respects enterprise and intelligence,

450

NOTF.S.

tlu' mass of our lalM)uring pi'ople may hv placed cm a level
with the better instructed Knglish mechanic : without his
particular excellence, it is trui-, but with infinitely more
general and useful inforniaticm. Men would come from
the forest to the sea to meet a demand, just as men will
go from the sea to the interior, when that demand has more
than met with its supply. So long as the merchant can
afford to pay for labour, he will never want seamen in
America, since it is commerce that makes mariners, and not
mariners commerce. There are certain familiar facts that
have a more particular connection with the present state of
our seamen, which we may find it useful to refer to, when
we shall come to consider America as a naval power. But
this subject must be postponed, until you have seen some-
thing of the country itself.

" As respects the supposed difference between the
interests of what you call the maritime, and of the interior
states, it has no real existence, and can, therefore, never
produce any important results. It is difficult to imagine
a state of society where there is so little competition, (the
source of all discord,) between its members, as is to be
found in the United States. The unfortunate and lament-
able grievance of slavery ceases to be an evil in this respect.
That momentry collisions of opinion do arise between
northern and southern, between eastern and western policy,
is undeniable ; but they are far more the results of the
right to complain, than of any natural disability to main-
tain the connection. Fancy for a moment, that Ireland,
Scotland, Canada, and the West Indies, could make them-
selves, not heard, but felt in the councils of their empire,
and then figure to yourself the discord that would follow !
Nay, look at that which does at this moment exist, when
their voices are so feeble, and their efforts so impotent.
Now, in America, the southern planter has need of the

NOTKS.

•I'l7

the

licy,
the

^hen

ent.

the

shipping and nmiiiifuituros of Hoine one. He has only to
ask hiniself whether he will use those of a people in whom?
couneils he shares, or those of strangers. 'J'he eonverse of
the projmsition exhibits the principle which binds the
northern to the southern man. On all the great and lead-
ing questions of jKilicy, their interests are identified, and
the harmony which has suffered so little interruption for
half a century, shows liow sensible they are of its truth.
Any depiU'tures from this accordance of opinion, are merely
trifling exceptions, which are only the more prominent
from their infrequency. If the states of Ohio, Tcnesse,
and Kentucky, had the exclusive power to legislate on the
commerce of the Unicm, they might encumber it from
ignorance of its practices, though they would not be slow
to perceive how useful it is, even to themselves. But com-
merce is regulated in the grand council of the nation,
where men are assembled who know how to compare their
respective wants, and, where small sectional interests are
completely silenced by the voices of the majority. But after
all, in considering this question, a great deal t(X> much
stress is laid on the inland states of America. The terri-
torial limits of the states are ideal, so far as commerce is
concerned. As bodies politic, the states are totally mute
in the matter. Neither is extent of coast any evidence of
the maritime habits of a state. New York, with more
shipping, has less coast (if an island without ports be
excepted,) than the two smallest states of the Union. Out
of twenty-four states, seventeen touch the sea, five lie on
the great lakes, and the remaining three have direct navi-
gable water communication with the port of New Orleans,
and will shortly have an internal water communication with
that of New York.

" As to manufactures, they are clearly a means of aid-
ing commerce, when they exist in communities that can

VOL. I. H H

458

NOTES.

profit by both. It will be adding one more to the other
numerous nautical resources of the country, let them thrive
with us to-day, or fifty years hence, since, putting expor-
tation out of the question, they will clearly increase the
objects of intercommunication.

" I know of but one other manner of considering the
matter that is embraced by your query. It does not, in
truth, properly belong to the subject, though, as it is
always forced into view in Europe, I presume you may
expect me to say something concerning it, here. I mean
the extent to which emigration will affect navigation,
by depriving the maritime states of their seamen. I
have alread}-^ said, that should there be a demand for sea-
men, it would produce, when necessary, a counter-current.
But it never can be necessary. Of this truth you will be
convinced by a simple statement of facts. Though, per-
haps, one-third, and sometimes one half of the seamen em-
ployed in our foreign trade may be foreigners, the country
has always possessed enough of its own to conduct its com-
merce. Thousands live on shore for years at a time, and
thousands are induced to go abroad in quest of adventure.
In the trade, coastwise, fisheries; 8ec. &c., nine-tenths, or,
perhaps, more are natives. Now these men have been
chiefly supplied by five of the New England, and the five
middle states. In 1790, the population of these ten states
amounted to 2,264,536. In 1820, it had reached
4,603,974 ; that is to say, it had doubled in thirty
years, notwit'jstanding the vast emigration they had sent to
the west. This increase is certainly liable to some expla-
nation. During this time. New York, Pennsylvania,
Maine, and New Hampshire, have been, comparatively
speaking, new states. But the two latter have never been
favourites, and all have, for the last fifteen years, sent forth
more emigrants than they have received, and they have

NOTES.

459

received few settlers that did not come from some one of the
other six. The increase of these ten states between the years
1810 and 1820, a period during which they must have been
losers by the emigration, was little short of 900,000 souls.
Thus, you see, the question has become exceedingly nar-
row. If the fact, that we have now a sufficient number of
native seamen, to conduct our trade, be admitted, the
tonnage of the country must double in thirty years, or the
increase of the population of these ten states alone can
.furnish the necessary supply for the future. In making
these remarks, I have excluded foreign emigration from
the estimates, since it is well known that it produces no
visible effect on the population of the country. It has
been judiciously calculated that, all births allowed, the
population of the United States was scarcely augmented
200,000 souls, by foreign emigration, in five-and-thirty
years. It is said to be increasing a little just now, a fact
that will, of course, only facilitate our ability to meet any
extraordinary demand for men."

END OF VOL. I.

LONDON :
SIIACKKLL AND BAYLIS, JOHNSON'S-COURT, FLRF.T-STREf;T.

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