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1 2 3

AMERICA

AND

THE BRITISH COLONIES.

^n Memtt

ALL THE MOST USEFUL INFORMATION

BKLATIVK TO '

AMO

THE BRITISH COLONIES

CANADA, THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, NEW SOUTH
WALES, AND VAN DIEMENS ISLAND.

EXHJ ;liINO AT ONE VUW
THE COMPARATIVE ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES

EACH COUNTRY OFFERS FOR EMIGRATION.

COLLXCTES FBOM

THE MOST VALUABLE AND RECENT PUBLICATIONS.

. TO WHICH ABX ADDED,

CiirR^^^crr ' '""' ""^ *""•* '»"'' ''^ ^" ^"^ " ^"'» p"-

BY WILLIAM KINGDOM, JUN.

SECOND EDITION.

LONDON :

PRINTED FOR G. AND W. B. WHITTAKER, AVE-MARIA-LANE.

1820.

r'l

LONDON:

PKINTEI) BT THOMAS HAVtSON, V IIITKtRIAHS.

THE RIGHT HONORABLE

THE EARL OF EGREMONT,
&c. &c. &c.

THE FOLLOWING COMPILATION

IS DEDICATED^
WITH THE PROFOUNDEST RESPECT,

BY HIS lordship's MOST OBEDIENT

AND VKBY HUBIBLE SERVANT,

WILLIAM KINGDOM, Jun.

, J

PREFACE.

THE information contained in the follow-
ing pages was principally collected by the
author last autumn, for the guidance of a
friend and himself, both of whom, at that
period, entertained some intention of emi-
grating.

The choice of the country wherein we may
probably pass the remainder of our days
ought not to be made hastily, nor yet with-
out a thorough conviction that the spot we
do fix upon is, at least, as eligible as any
other that offers an asylum : to make this
decision with justice to himself and family,
a man should first be acquainted with the'
general habits and peculiar localities of each
particular country ; the acquirement of this

knowledge has hitherto been in the power of
but few, most of the accounts of our Colo-
nies having been published in large and ex-
pensive volumea, and unfortunately but little
adapted to the finances of the generality of
emigrants: to obviate these difficulties has
been the author's chief aim, and he has en-
deavoured to collect, into as small a compass
as possible, every particular respecting the
British Colonies, and the United States of
America, that might be of service to the
emigrant ; to which he has presumed to add
a few observations of his own.

The publications he has consulted are
those which have obtained the greatest share
of public approbation, and the extracts which
he has taken from them such as appeared to
contain the information most sought for by
persons who would probably feel more in-
terest in the domestic manners of the people,
and the means of life, than in the public re-
sources and political situation of the countries
of which they treat.

The utility, and indeed the immediate
necessity of such a work, at a moment when
thousands of British subjects are on the point
of quitting the country, will no doubt be
acknowledged, and may plead some excuse
for the author's undertaking a task, to which
he fears neither his talents, nor his expe-
rience, render him wholly adequate.

London^
November^ 1819.

ERRATA,

Pag« 90, line 14, for " 12 to 15 dollori," rtad 12 to 20.
127, 6, after the word " oak," put a comma.

UNITED STATE8

AMERICA;

THE port in the United States to which the
emigrant should sail must depend upon the place
where he intends to settle ; to a very g..at propor-
tion of them the countries west of the Alleghany
mountains, that is Ohio, Indiana, Kentucky,
and the Illinois, appear to hold out the fairest
prospect of success, and to these points Baltimore
IS the best port, the route by way of New Orleans
being subject to many disadvantages*.

As economy, of both time and money, will pro-
bably be an object of consideration with the ge-
nerality of emigrants, they will find but little ad-
vantage in wasting either at Baltimore; their
better way being to proceed to Pittsburgt, or
Wheeling, on the Ohio, to which places waggons
* Mellish's American Traveller contains an accurate descrip-

z:!^:""'' '" ''' "-'' '' '-''-'' ^" -'^ p- o^ ^'^

t I^ttsburg is 250 miles from Baltimore, 310 from Philadelphia,
and 400 rom Ne^v York, Wheeling is 96 miles down the Ohio
from Pittsburg.

go every day; the charge, both for passengers
and luggage, to the latter place, is from five to
seven dollars per cwt.* Persons who wish to go
cheaply merely send their luggage by this con-
veyance, and walk alongside.

The waggoners travel with great economy ;
many carry a camp kettle in which they cook
their food, and some sleep in the waggon, but
there are numerous inns on th toad where a bed
may be procured, though not at so moderate a rate
as might be expected, considering the general
indifference of the accommodation afforded. When
the emigrant arrives at Pittsburg, or Wheeling,
he findsi great numbers arriving there daily, and
therefore but Httie chance of procuring employ-
ment } if he intends, to descend the Ohio, he had
best inquire for one or more families going to
the same neighbourhood, whom he may join in
the purchase of an arkt a kind of vessel in which
families descend that river j these ai'ks are built
for saie, for the conveyance of famLLes 5 they are
flat^bottora;ed, square at the ends, and all of the
same size, being fifty feet long and fourteen
bioad; they are covered, and will serve three or
four families, as they carry from twenty-five to
thirty tons each j their usual price is seventy-five
doUars, and they sell for nearly as much six or
seven hundred miles lower down the river ; there
are pilots who conduct the boats over the falls,
for which they charge two dollars.

* The Dollar is equal to 45. 6rf. siorling, and a Cent is the
lumdredth part of a dollar, or little more than a halfpenny.

On arrival at the Ohio, the next step is an im-
portant one, and as emigrants are of many descrip-
tions ,t will be best to apply our remarks to each
Glass separately. We will suppose the>./ class
to be labourers, who have more bodily strength
than ingenuity or education; if a man of this
class will work he has nothing to fear in America,
as there are plenty of farmers who will employ
him; he cannot expect full wages at first, but if
attentive, he may, after the first year, obtain from
twelve to fifteen dollars per month, and board,
which includes a liberal supply of cyder and
brandy; the latter must not be indulged in too
treely, or the emigrant will acquire a bad habit,
and rum his prospects ; if his conduct be correct,
he may associate with the sons of the neighbour-
mg farmers, many of whom know that their an-
cestors became proprietors of land from a similar
beginning.

The second class of emigrants are tradesmen
who are too poor to commence business for
themselves ; their object, therefore, is to procure
work ; this can seldom be obtained in the sea-
ports, but easily in the country; or, should they
turn agriculturists, they have all the advantages of
the first class ; the countries west of the AUeghany
mountains are the most advantageous to persons
ot this, and the former description ; when they
arnve on the Ohio, the facility of descending that
nver opens to them a vast field, in which labour
must find a good market for ages yet to come. *

B S

The emigrant possessed of property, say from
200/. to 1000/. is advised to deposit his money in
a bank, or purchase government stock imme-
diately on his landing. He should not be too
hasty in determining what line of business to
engage in j should he decide on mercantile busi-
ness, or keeping a store, he should by all means
get a situation in a merchant's counting-house,
or in a store, for a year at least. If he adopts
agriculture, he ought to procure an assistant who.
understands the management of crops, and the
mode of working land.

For most trades, Ohio, Indiana, and the Illinois
are the best countries ; the profits being greater,
and the expense of living much less; the cHmate
is also more suitable to Europeans. Those who
keep journeymen are advised not to exact that
servility of behaviour which is expected in other
countries. Those who go to America with the
intention of farming should take with them some
seed wheat of the best kinds ; perhaps the Syrian
wheat would be most advantageous ; also a small
quantity of lucerne, saintfoin, and vetches, as
well as a small bag of hay seeds irom a good
meado',y ; farming implements may be had in any
part of the United States.

There is a choice of climate from 29° to 44° of

north latitude, being suitable to the growth of

sugar, cotton, and grain; those who mean to

grow sugar must go south of 29i*^, cotton south

* of 36°, and for corn the best is from 36° to 41°.

The rye harvest commences in June, that of
wheat soon after, oats next, and afterwards the
hay crop ; then come potatoes, and lastly Indian
com. The first work after a settlement is to
plant a peach and apple orchard, and place them
alternately, say one peach between two apple trees,
the latter thirty feet asunder: the peach tree
soon comes to maturity and is short-lived ; they
will be of little value when the apple tree requires
room. In the woody regions the ax is the chief
implement in the settler's hands, but in the Illinois,
the North-west territories, &c. the prairies, or
natural meadows, will allow him to settle without
much trouble.

Agues are very prevalent on the new settle-
ments near the rivers; some of the valleys are as
healthy as the uplands, but this is where the river
does not overflow its banks, nor where there is
any stagnant water in the neighbourhood. Dew
and rain should be avoided, and the settler is
recommended to change his linen after a profuse
perspiration. The purer the water is the better ;
if there be sulphur in it, a piece of bright silver
will turn black ; a little of the inner bark of oak
infused in a glassful turns the water black if it
contain iron ; paper stained blue, by the petals
of any flower of that colour being rubbed upon
It, turns green by being dipped in water im-
pregnated with alkali, and red if an acid.

The settler may with little trouble brew \^

rtie,

barley

being cultivated west of the

6 .

Alleghanies, and hops grow wild in great abund.
ance; this beverage is supposed to be a pre-
ventive of the ague. Bark and laudanum are also
efficacious ; these latter articles the emigrant should
have by him.

In the commencement of the settlement of any
particular district, the progress of improvement is
slow until a grist and a saw mill are erected, after
which it is much more rapid ; by the help of a
saw mill every planter in the vicinity is soon able
to erect a frame-house, and the grist mUl enables
them to grind their wheat into flour fit for a market.
Doctor Franklin says, « America is the best
place in the world for those who will labour ;
they can earn more here than any where elsej
our governments are frugal, they demand few taxes ;
the husbandman and the mechanic are in honour
here, because their employments are useful ; the
only encouragements we hold out to strangers are,
a good climate, fertile soil, wholesome air and
water, plenty of provisions, good pay for labour,
kind neighbours, a free government, and a hearty
welcome; the rest depends upon their own in-
dustry and economy.**

Almost every description of labourers are sure
of employment in America. At New York, in
July 1816, common workmen received rather more
than a dollar per day, and carpenters, bricklayers,
^&c. near two dollars. Artisans"also receive better
^pfty than in Europe. The laborious classes are,
however, strongly recommended not to loiter away

'"their time in great towns, but to proceed direct
to the interior, where they are more certain of
procuring work ; a residence in a large town, and
the cheapness of liquors, are apt to generate a
habit of drinking, which would blast their progress
for ever; for the drunkard is here shunned, de-
spised, and abhorred, and shut out from all decent
intercourse*.

Men of mechanical science, who can apply
their knowledge to useful and practical purposes,
may be very advantageously settled herej but
mere literary scholars meet with little encourage-
ment, unless they will devote themselves to th6
education of youth.

From the 35th to the 43d degree of north la*
titude will be found most congenial to Europeans.
New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Virginia, Ken-
tucky, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Missouri terri*
tories lie between these parallels.

We think young men cannot go too speedily to
the fine regions beyond the Alleghany mountains.
There is some difference in the kind of labour ; he
who used the spade must now use the ax, and
he who used to dig ditches must learn to maul
rails and make fences.

Bradbury recommends the Missouri for a set-
tlement, because the transit to New Orleans may
be made at any time, whereas the Ohio river is
not navigable during the months of August, Sep'-

* Bristed says the lower class of Americans are terribly
dieted to drinkinif.

tember, and October. Settlements and planta-
tions already formed are often to be purchased
on very moderate terms. This country will be
much benefited by the steam-boats on the Missis-
»ppi, great numbers of which are now building in
the ports of the Ohio. Coal is universally spread
throughout these regions.

The sugar region reaches from the coast to
the latitude of 31^, and its growth only com-
menced in 1800. There is an extensive tract
suitable for that purpose, which is now settling
very fast. In the year 1811, some plantations on
the Mississippi produced 500 hogsheads j the cul-
tivation is rapidly increasing, many planters having
made their fortunes thereby.

The region proper for cotton extends from
3ir to 36\ The culture of cotton requires
but little labour ; the seeds are planted three or
three and a half feet asunder, and after the plants
have acquired some strength, they are weeded and
earthed up, and require no further care until the
pods are ripe ; they are then collected, and the
cotton is separated from its seeds by a machine
called a saw-gin. As there are public gins in
almost every part, where planters may have their
cotton cleared and packed on moderate terms,
poor men may become cotton planters, and a nu-
merous family is then an advantage, as females
and children can collect the pods and take in the
Ifctton ; the ground also requires but little pre-
paration.

The shepherd, and the husbandman, collect
together their vast flocks by the aid of salt alone,
the efficacy of which, Bradbury says, he saw in
his own horse, which he could attract by a show
of salt when that of corn had no effect.

In Michaux's Travels it appears that the manner
of collecting the cattle every evening is by send-
ing with them into the plains, or woodsi for the
first few weeks, two or three old milch cows
accustomed to the place, round whose necks
are fastened small bells. The cows come back
every evening to be milked; the rest of the cattle
herd with these, following the noise of the bells,
and when they return to the farm, a handful
of salt, or something of which they are equally
fond, is given to each, as an inducement for
them to return again. In a short time the
cattle become familiar with the place, and
having been accustomed from the first day to
return, they regularly walk to the farm every
evening.

The Ohio river (signifying beautiful) from
Pittsburg to its mouth, where it flows into the
Mississippi, is supposed to be 1188 miles, and re-
ceives in its course 13 rivers.

The mineral resources of this part of the country
are at present but little explored; coal, salt, iron,
lead, nitre, and saltpetre, have already been dis-
covered.

Tlie wild animals have nearlv disapnearpd fmtn

|-!ii

the inhabited parts ; the wolves sometimes take a
she^ or a pig, but they are becoming scarcer :
the squirrels are the greatest enemies to the
farmers, but their increase is prevented by the
riflemen, who sometimes kill 2000 a day.

The unsettled lands belonging to the United
State? uniformly sell for two dollars per acre, wifh
four years to pay it in, or one dollar 64 cents cash.

Few Europeans who have been accustomed to
sedentary employments can submit to the fatigue
of clearing a forest ; but the back-woodsmen, dis-
liking population, are ever ready to sell their im-
provements and retire farther into the woods;
these improvements consist of a log-house, a peach,
and perhaps an apple orchard, together with 10,
20, 30, or 40 acres of land, inclosed and partly
cleared, for which seldom more than from 50 to
60 dollars are demanded in addition to the origi-
nal cost*.

The land-tax takes place in five years after the
purchase, and is 120 cents on 100 acres of first
rate land, 100 cents on 100 acres of second rate
land, and 60 cents per 100 acres of third rate
landf . Some districts of land may be purchased
of the speculators for half a dollar per acre, which
would answer for sheep.

There are two modes of clearing land: one by
cutting the trees round so as to kill them, and
then clear away the underwood, which is very
little J the other is cutting down the trees, col-

•Vide page 54. fVide page 64.

lecting them together and burning them: this is
frequently done in the following manner, aB4 is
termed a " frolic." The neighbours (even unso-
licited) appoint a day, when, as a frolic, they shall
for instance, build the new settler a house; on
the morning appointed they assemble, and divide
themselves into parties; one party cuts down the
trees, another lops them and cuts them into proper
lengths, a third with horses or oxen drags them to
the intended spot, another party makes shingles for
the roof, and at night all the materials are on the
spot; the night of the next day the family sleep
in their new habitation ; no payment is expected,
nor would it be received; it is considered a duty,
and lays him under an obligation to assist the
next settler.

The winters here are so mild and short as to
render very little labour necessary to provide
food for cattle during that season. Most farmers
scatter the seeds of pumpkins in the field when
planting the corn, and nothing more is necessary
than throwing the pumpkins into the waggon when
ripe; they are so little trouble that they sell for a
dollar per waggon load, and generally weigh from
30 to 40 pounds each; cattle and hogs are fond
of them.

The vine flourishes in this region, and the wheat
can scarcely be surpassed either for quantity or
quality. Vegetables grow in the same perfection
as in England, except the cauliflower, and some
species of beans. Water melons, mnsk melons,

Squashes, sweet potatoes, cucumbers, &c. arrive at
great perfection. The fruits are excellent and
abundant, particularly peaches and apples.

Very little agricultural labour is performed by
the women, who are chiefly employed in domestic
manufactures: almost all grow some flax, and
south of latitude 39°, they have what they call a
cotton patch, although cotton is not usually grown
north of latitude 36° : few are without sheep : thus
they are furnished with three staple articles, out
of which they spin almost sufficient for the cloth-
ing, &c. of the family: some have looms and weave
it themselves, others employ weavers who follow it
as an occupation. The manufacture of woollen is
much facilitated by carding machines, these being
generally established throughout the United States.
A small sum, the saving of two or three years
of a prudent working man, will enable him to
purchase one or two hundred acres of land : from
this cause labourers continually become farmers.
All are aware that turning wild land into cultiva-
tion will occasion some hardships and privations ;
but the ease, security, and independence which
are certain to follow make ample amends.

Provisions in the western territories will long
remain low in price, because of the great distance
from a foreign market *.

The population of these territories is only one

* It may be necessary to impress upon the attention of some
readers that the low price of provisions is advantageous to the
labourer or workman only, and not to the farmer.

to one and a lialf square mile, or 060 acres ; the
average population of England and Wales is 19^
to a square mile, and in Lancashire 400.

Wages in this territory are, to a labourer or hus-
bandman 15 dollars per month, with board, &c.
Carpenters, masons, &c. about one and a quarter
dollar per day, or a dollar and board. Slioe-
makers about four shillings for making a pair of
shoes, and for a pair of boots eleven shillings.
The following is about the average price o£ pro-
visions :

Flour, per barrel of 196 lbs.

Indian com meal, per lOOlbs.

Potatoes, per bushel

Beef, mutton, and veal, per lb.

Pork, per lb.

Bacon, per lb.

Venison, per lb.

Fowls, each

Ducks each

Geese each

Turkeys, each

Cheese, per lb.

Butter, per lb.

Cyder, per barrel

Whiskey, per gallon

Peach brandy, per gallon

Maple sugar, per gallon

By comparing this table with the price of la-
bour, it will appear, that an industrious man may.
easily support his family ; as one day's pay will
purchase 50 pounds of flour, or 20 pounds of beef,
or 3 bushels of potatoes, or 27 pounds of pork,
or 8 fowls, or 4 ducks, or 2 geese.

Doll.
4

Cents.
0

The constitution of the State of Ohio declares,
that—

1. All men are bora equally free and inde-
pendent.

^ All men have a natural right to worship
God according to the dictates of their own con-
science.

3. Trial by Jury shall be inviolate.

4. Printing-presses shall be free.

5. Unwarrantable searches shall not be iwadi;.

6. Unnecessary rigour shall not be exercised*

7. Excessive bail shall not be reqiiii;;d.

8. Penalties shall be proportioned to the nature
of the offence.

9. The liberty of the people to assemble toge-
ther for the public good, and to be armed in their
own defence, is guaranteed.

IC Hereditary emol iments, honours, and pri-
vileges are for ever prohibited.

11. Slavery is for ever prohibited.

12. Religion, morality, and knowledge, schools,
and the means of instruction, shall be encouraged
by legislative provision.

The government of the United States is legisla-
tive and executive, and regulates the judicial and
military authority.

The legislature concur '^ of a senate uid a house
of representatives.

The senators are elected biennially, the repre-
sentatives annually, by the people ♦.

* Bristed says, the senators are elected for six years ; but one
third of them vacate their seats in rotation every second year.

Every free white man who is a citizen of the
United States, and has resided in that state one
year, has a vote for a representative ; if two years,
he can vote for a senate^.

Every citizen qualified to vote for a senator,
and above 25 years of age, is eligible to be hin
self elected for a representative j if above 30 he
is eligible to become a senator.

The elections are carried on throughout the
states on the same day, and between the hours of
ten and four.

The governor of each state is chosen by the
people, and serves two years j he cannot be elected
more than three times in succession.

The justices are appointed by the people of
their respective townships, and retain that office
only three years unless re-elected.

In the military state, the captains and subaltern
officers are chosen by the people of the respective
district. Majors are elected by captains and subal-
terns; colonels by majors, captains, and subal-
terns; brigadier-generals by the commissioned
officers of their respective brigades ; major-gene-
rals, and quarter-master-generals, are appointed by
joint ballot of both houses of legislature.

The governor is commander-in-chief, and ap-
points the adjutants.

The time for electing representatives varies in the diflTerent states:
those of South Carolina and Tennessee elect them biennially j in
Connecticut and Rhode I^nd the elections are semi-aimiial, and
in all other states yearly.

The salary of tlie president of the United States
IS 25,000 dollars, or 5,625/. Vice-president 5000
dollars, or 1125/.

Each senator and representative receives eight
dollars per day while attending in session, and
eight dollars for every 20 miles travelling to and
from the seat of government.

The chief.justice's salary is 4000 dollars, or
900/.

Six associate judges, 3500 dollars, or 787/. 10^.
each.

Attorney-general, 3000 dollars, or 675/.

With respect to the manners of the people west
of the AUeghany mountains, it is impossible there
should be any uniformity ; they are composed of
emigrants from every state of the union, mixed with
Enghsh, Irish, Dutch, Swiss, German, French, and
almost every other country in Europe. That spe-
cies of hauteur which one class of society in some
countries shows to another is here entirely un-
known : the justice on the bench, or the officer
m the fiold, are obeyed while exercising the func-
tions of their office ; but should they treat the
least wealthy of their fellow-citizens with con-
tumely, they would soon find they could not do it
with impunity. Travellers from Europe should
be informed of this part of the American charac
ter : let no one here indulge himself too freely in
abusing the waiter or ostler at an inn ; he may
probably be a citizen, and does not conceive that
in discharging his duty he should submit to in-

suits ; but this feeling

us teeling is purely defensive. Brad-
bury says, « I have travelled ten thousand miles
in the United States, and never met with the least
affront or incivility, and near two thousand miles
in parts where there were no taverns, and where
travellers are obliged tc appeal to the hospitality
of the inhabitants : in no instance have I appealed
m vain, although the furnishing a bed in some
cases has been evidently inconvenient ; and, in
many instances, no remuneration would be taken.
In the western territories few houses have either
locks or bolts to their doors ; no people behave
better to their neighbours; and, I believe, no
country of equal population exhibits fewer crimes
against the laws."

Nothing more strongly proves the superiority
of the western territory than the vast emigration
to It from the eastern and southern states ; during
the 18 months previous to April 1816, 15,000
waggons passed over the bridge at Cayuga, con-
taming emigrants to the western country.

In the states of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, the
chmates of which are most congenial to English-
men, there remained near 40,000,000 of acres un-
sold on the 30th September, 1811 j these lands
are disposed of at the land offices in the great
towns ; the price is two dollars per acre, one-
fourth of the purchase money to be paid down,
and the remainder in four years ; and not less than
160 acres can be bought at these offices.

The state of the Ohio is situated between 38 i"
and 42° of north latitude, and between 80i° and
84r of west longitude ; it is bounded on the north
by the divisional line between the United States
and Upper Canada, passing through the middle
of Lake Erie and Michigan territory j on the west
by Indiana, and south and south-east by the river
Ohio, which separates it from Kentucky and Vir-
ginia ; and east by Pennsylvania : its length from
north to south is 228 miles, its mean breadth
about 200; and contains, according to Mr. Drake,
40,000 square miles, or 25,000,000 acres. The
rivers of this state run north into Lake Erie, or
south into tne Ohio. The Ohio washes the south-
eastern frontier of the state 509 miles. Some
parts of the state are hilly j but the hills are mostly
capable of cultivation to their very summits. The
bottoms, or plains, of the Ohio are of very unequal
widths ; some of the hills approach nearly to the
river, while others are two or three miles distant.
There are usually three bottoms, rising one above
another ; the lowest bears a heavy load of beech,
sugar-maple, buck-eye, elm, honey-locust, black
walnut, spice-wood, dog-wood, plum, crab-apple,
and grape vines. The hills are covered with oak,
chestnut, sassafras, &c. The north-western corner
contains a district of rich land, but too swampy
for healthy settlements.

Cincinnati, the largest town in the state, stands

on the north bank of tlurOhio, its dUtance by
land from Pittsburg is 300 miles j by water 524
mJesi from Baltimore by land 420 miles j and
from New Orleans by water 1,736 miles ; most of
Ae streets are 66 feet wide. The number of
buddmgs m July, 1815, was 1,100. and the popu.
lation 6,000; it may now be calculated at 1,«K)
houses, and 8,000 inhabitants: about 30 houses
are of stone, 300 of brirk ar,A *i,„ • , „

w„„j -PL • ' *"* remamder of

wood, rhere is a steam saw-miU of twenty horse
power, drives four saws which cut 800 feet in an
hour : also a cotton and woollen manufactory,
whrch ™„s 3,300 spindles for cotton, and 400 il

which together contain 1,500 spindles, and a
woollen factory capable of producing 60 yards of
broadcloth per day; it began to work in 1815:
Cables and cordage are made for exportation , and
«^ tons of white and red lead are made weekly
There are two glass factories, andaniron-foundery •
and two weekly newspapers. '^ '

The exports of Cincinnati consist of flour, corn,
beef; pork, butter, lard, bacon; whiskey, peach
brandy, beer, pot and pearl-ashes-, chei; soap,
candles, hats, hemp, spun-yarn. saddles, rifles
staves and scantlings, cabinet furniture and chairs!
East Indian and European goods are imported
from Baltimore and Philadelphia; lead from St.
iouis ; rum, sugar, molasses, and diy goods from
New Orleans; salt from Kenaway salt-works; coal

• For method of making pot and peari-aA. vid. Ganad,.

c S

from Pittsburg down the Ohio j and boards and
shingles from Alleghany.

No country can promise more to the indus-
trious, if we look to the soil, the climate, the low
price of land and taxes, and the certain prospect
of a market for surplus produce. Improved lands
are worth from 4 to 25 dollars per acre.

All the useful handicrafts are wanted. Farmers
chiefly make their own clothing. Sheep answer
well: many horned cattle and hogs are reared
and sent to market.

The following was the market price of produce
at Cincinnati, in January, 1818.

DoU. Centsr
Apples, per barrel
Bacon, per lb.
Beef, per cwt.
Barley, per bushel
Black salt, per cwt.
Butter, in kegs, per lb.
Ditto, fresh, per do.
Candles, dipped, per do.
Ditto, moulds, per do.
Cheese (Ohio), per do.
Cyder, racked, with barrel
Corn meal, per bushel
Eggs, per dozen
Flax seed, per bushel
Flour, best, per barrel
Ditto, fine, per do.
Gin, country, per gallon
Hay, per J;on

Loaf sugar, refined, per \h
Lard, per 100 lbs.
Oats, per bushel .

18i

\2i

374

Porter, old, and cask

Ditto, neve, do. .

Ditto, bottled, per dozen, without bottles

Ditto, ditto, ditto, with British bottles

Strong beer, with barrel

Ditto, without ditto

Pork, per cwt. corn fed

Ditto, ditto, mast fed

Salt, best, per bushel

Sugar, country, per lb.

Ditto, Orleans, per 100 lbs

Shingles, per 1000

Soap, per lb.

Tobacco, manufactured, per 100 lbs.

Tallow, per lb.

Tar, per barrel

Wheat, per bushel

Buck wheat, per ditto

Indian corn, per ditto

Whiskey, per gallon

Shoes, from 3 to 4 dollars per pair ; Wellington
boots, from 8 to 9 doUars ; Hessian boots, from
11 to 12 dollars; superfine blue cloth, from 13 to
15 dollars per yard; making a coat, six dollars;
American hats, from 7 to 10 dollars; mechanics'
board and lodging, per week, 3 dollars.

A good milch cow, 15 dollars ; a good working
horse, 40 dollars ; and a sheep, three dollars and a
half

The average produce of land, per acre, was,
Wheat . . 25 bushels

Oats . . . 30 . :

Indian corn . . 50 . .

Hemp grows well, crops of hay are heavy, and
so is grass of all kinds.

DoU. Cents
9 0

8 0

1 50

s 4 0

7 0

. 6 50

. 5 0

3 50

. 2 0

0 15

. 21 0

3 50

0 10

. 15 0

0 14

. 10 0

0 75

0 37

0 33

0 624

2SJ

The timber of the Ohio State, besides what has
already been described as growing on the banks
of the river, consists of the cucumber tree, white
pine, spruce, hemlock, larch, sycamore, wild cherry,
aspin, red mulberry, service tree, hornbeam, and
cotton tree. The soil is loam ; in some places deep
black vegetable mould, clay, and gravel. There is
a stripe of country bordering on Lake Erie, three
miles wide, covered with two or three inches of
black mould, growing hickory, chestnut, and oak ;
this soil is congenial to the growth of corn and
fruit, but not so well adapted for grass as the land
on the southern side of the state, which has a
moister and deeper soil, and clothed with beech,
black walnut, &c. The order of the earth's strata
is, first, vegetable mould, loam, or clay ; second,
gravel or sand of various depths j third, ash co-
loured free-stone, compact slate, or blue clay ;
fourth, quicksand, where water is obtained. The
fossils are, coal, salt leeks at the depth of two
hundred feet, sulphur, chalybeate and aluminous
springs : there are also alum, copperas, iron ore,
gypsum, limestone, millstone, grindstone, and whet-
Stone.

The population of Ohio, in 1816, was 450,000;
and there were 27 newspapers printed in the
state ; many of them, however, were only pub-
lished weekly.

The Indiana Territory lies between 37t and
414 of north latitude ; length, from north to south,
is S04, and breadth, from east to west, loo miles.

It contains 39,000 square miles, or 24,960,000
acres. The population, in 1815, was 67,793, not
two to a square mile.

The Ohio washes the southern boundary; its
winding course being 472 miles, and is navigable
all the way. The Wabash is also navigable about
400 miles for keel boats, and is about 300 yards
wide at the mouth ; there are, besides, many other
rivers and creeks. In the northern part of the
state there are 38 lakes, from two to ten miles in
length ; and probably a great many of smaller
dimensions. Mr. Buck, an American surveyor,
says, « The prairies on the Wabash, near Fort
Harrison, are the most rich and beautiful I ever
saw ; they are from one to 15 miles in length, and
from one to five in breadth : the streams are bor-
dered with excellent timber, from half a mile to a
mile wide."

In choosing a farm, it is best to have part prairie,
and part woodland. Although the country is in
general well watered, good mill seats are scarce.
Steam mills will, doubtless, be erected as soon as
the country is sufficiently settled to export flour.
Corn is easily raised here ; and cattle, as little or
no fodder is requisite. The timber round these
prairies consists chiefly of oak ; many of them are
destitute of water, but it may be had by digging
20 or 30 feet. Horse mills are common; the
miller takes one-eighth for toil, the customers
finding their own horses.

Wheat weighs 68 lbs. per bushel, which sells for

«4

15 cents; flour, three doUars per 100 lbs; butter
and cheese, from l^ to 35 cents per pound ;
honey, 50 cents per gallon ; maple sugar, 25 cents.
European goods are exorbitantly high. Salt, at
the works, one dollar per bushel; at other places,
two dollars.

The banks of the Wabash are, in many places,
subject to overflows, but the floods do not last
long, nor are they dangerous. The winters are
mdd, the severest not having more than four
weeks frost, during which time the snow is from
six to nine inches deep : the winter begins about
Christmas, and continues till the middle or end of
February. The p(.pulation of Indiana has nearly
doubled since 1815, and is now upwards of 120,000.
Farms, containing a log-house, and 15 or 20
acres, seU as high as eight or 10 dollars, per acre,
above the original cost, but in some instances less.
Considerable quantities of cotton grow in this
state. The vine, the species of mulberry adapted
for the silk-worm, and the sweet potatoe, will flou-
rish wherever the reed cane grows, which is found
as high as north latitude 37° 50'. Rice and indigo,
it is supposed, would do well in some parts of this
state.

The forests of Indiana contain an abundance of
game ; great numbers of deer are yearly destroyed
by the inhabitants ; bears are numerous, and wild
turkeys particularly so. Deer are mortal enemies
to the rattle-snake, and often designedly kUl them
by jumping upon them. Farmers are much an-

noyed by squirrels, moles, and mice ; the mole is
particularly troublesome in meadows and corn-
fields.

Iron ore and chalybeate springs are plentiful ;
it is said a silver mine has been discovered. The
water in some places is so deeply impregnated with
copperas, that linen washed therein turns black ;
some of the inhabitants have, in consequence, de-
serted these places.

The Illinois Territory lies between 36° 57'
and 41° 50' north latitude ; from north to south
its length is 347, and its mean breadth 206 miles.
It contains 52,000 square miles, or 33,280,000
acres. Its population, in 1810, was only 20,000,
chiefly resident on the banks of the Wabash, Mis-
sissippi, Ohio, and Kaskaskia rivers. No state has
such internal navigation ; and nearly 1000 miles,
or two-thirds of its boundaries, are washed by the
Wabash, Ohio, and Mississippi.

The Illinois river runs in a southern direction
for nearly 400 miles, is upwards of 400 yards
wide at its mouth, and has twelve tributary
■streams.

The Kaskaskia is the next river in size, and na-
vigable 130 miles. An inhabitant on the banks of
this river writes (20th January, 1817), " It waters
the finest country I ever sawj neither flat nor
mountainous, but suited to Indian corn, wheat,
rye, oats, barley, hemp, tobacco, &c. Several
mills are building. The inhabitants of it's banks

may not be so polished as some others, but none
are more hospitable, moral, or religious."

This territory has six kinds of land: First, hot-
toms, bearing honey-locust, peach, black walnut,
beech, sugar-maple, buck-eye, pawpaw, &c. ; this
land is inexhaustibly fertile, having been annually
cultivated without manure for more than a cen-
tury*. The second sort is found at the mouth and
confluence of rivers; being below high-water mark,
it is frequently inundated, and, though fertile, is
unhealthy. Third, dry prairies, lie from SO to 100
feet higher, a dry rich soil, well adapted for culti-
vation, and destitute of trees. The prairies of
the Illinois river are estimated at 1,200,000 acres,
and, in point of productiveness, inferior to none.
Fourth, wet prairies, are cold and barren, abound-
ing in ponds and swamps, and covered with, a tall
coarse grass. Fifth, timbered land, moderately
hiUy, watered, and of rich soil. Sixth, hills of a
steril soil, destitute of timber, or only covered with
small oaks, or pines.

The space between the rivers Wabash and Illi-
nois is extremely fertile and beautiful, being one
continued prairie, or natural meadow.

Copper, lead, and coal are found in this state.
Between 2 and 300,000 bushels of salt are made
annually, 26 miles below the mouth of the Wa-

• It appears that a party of settlers located in this state, on
the banks of the Wabash, more than 100 years since, and were
so completely secluded from the civUized world, that the males
mairied with the Indians.

bash, and sold, at the works, at from 50 to 75 cents
per bushel.

Kaskaskia is the principal town of this state,
and situated 11 miles from the mouth of the river
of that name, and six miles from the Mississippi j
it contains 160 houses, some of which are stone.

The buffalo has nearly disappeared ; deer, elk,
bears, wolves, foxes, opossum, and racoon remain.
Wild turkeys, geese, ducks, and quail, are plenti-
ful ; as well as pigeons, blackbirds, and paroquets.
Most kinds offish are found in the rivers and lakes.
Cotton is raised for domestic use ; tobacco grows
to great perfection, as well as corn, hemp, &c. &c.

The state of Kentucky lies farther south, and
is extremely fertile ; but slavery being allowed,
such white people as work are looked upon with
contempt; any description, therefore, would be
useless ; being totally unfit for the English emi-
grant.

Mr. Birkbeck gives the following particulars of
the United States :

— The urbanity and civility which prevail at a
distance from the large towns are very great ; re-
finement is more rare indeed j and so is extreme
vulgarity. At the taverns in the towns east of the
Alleghany mountains, all is done on the gregarious
plan ; every thing is public by day and by night ;
whatever be the number or quality of the guests,

they have their entertainment eii masse, and they
innst sleep en masse. Three times a day tfie great
bell rings and 1(X) persons collect from all quar-
ters to eat a hurried meal, composed of almost as
njany dishes. At breakfast there is fish, flesh,
and fowl ; bread of every shape and kind ; butter,'
eggs, coffee, tea, and more than can be thought
of. Dinner is much like breakfast, except tea and
coffee; and supper is breakfast repeated; soonafler
which, you assemble again in rooms crowded with
beds, where, afler undressing in public, you are
lucky if you have not a partner, besides myriads
of bugs.

PiTTSBuiiG is an important place ; steam-engines
of great power aie made here, and applied to va-
rious purposes ; and it contains sundry works, iron
founderies, glass-houses, &c. &c. which are likely
to increase, being an efitrepot for the merchandize
and manufactures supplied by the eastern to the
western states.

Shoemakers, tailors, &c. earn two dollars per
day, yet many of them are so imprudent that
they remain journeymen through life ; their sur-
plus earnings are spent in excursions, entertain-
ments, and balls : those who are steady and pru-
dent rapidly advance to wealth. A shoemaker,
who left Ireland four years ago, as poor as Irish
emigrants usually are, staid one year at Philadel-
phia, then removed hither, and was employed by
a master at 1'2 dollars per week; he saved his

riTT

money, married, paid his master 300 dollars for
his business, and is now in a fair way to be rich.
The Americans (continues Hirkbeck) are great
traveUers, and generally better acquainted with
this vast expanse of country than the English arc
with their little island. A farmer and his wife,
well mounted, have just alighted at the inn hero
(Washington) from the neighbourhood of Cincin-
nati, going to visit their friends at New York and
Philadelphia, a distance of 70O miles: he tells me
of a newly instituted society at Cincinnati, called
the Emigrant Society, designed to obtain correct
information, and communicate it to the poorer
class of emigrants, also to protect them from im-
position.

It is supposed that artizans in general will suc-
ceed in any part, and that labourers of all sorts
will greatly improve their condition : they will, if
saving and industrious, soon acquire wealth enough
to enable them to migrate farther in quest of land,
of which they may become proprietors. There is
little doubt of it*s being greatly advantageous to
an industrious family to exchange a rented farm
in England for a freehold west of the Ohio, and
the lattev would not require more capital than the
former. An old Irishman emigrated 14 years ago
with his wife and two children, and now owns
118 acres of land, and pays eight dollars a year in
taxes. A German, of the name of Somerset, felt
the toils of an earliest settler, and first used the
axe in the neighbourhood, and went 54 miles for

flour four times in the first summer. He could get
plenty of venison with his rifle, but nothing else,
even for money.

Trees form an excellent criterion of the quality
of the soil by their species and bulk.

Land is rapidly rising in price in all well settled
places ; 50 dollars per acre is frequently talked of
and 30 IS asked for a large tract of land, without
improvement, 50 miles from Cincinnati.

There is no instance of insanity in this State,
though It contains 100,000 inhabitants.

A good cow and calf are worth here (near Mr.
Birkbeck's settlement on the river Wabash) from
12 to 15 dollars ; a two year old heifer, six dollars j
a stout horse for drawing, 60 dollars or more.

The land carriage from Philadelphia to Pittsburg
IS from 7 to 10 doUars per 100 pounds. Razors!
pocket knives, &c. should be taken; good gun-
locks are difiicult to be procured j no heavy articles
will pay carriage.

Wolves and bears are very numerous, and the
latter verymjurious to the newly settled districts-
hogs are their constant prey; neither wolves nor
bears will attack man unless wounded, they then
turn on the hunter with great fury.

PuiNcETowi,, though at the farthest limits of
Indjana, but two years old, and containing about
ZT^'l'f'"^ respectable company, and not
one deculedly vicious character, nor one who is
not able, and willing, to maintain himself.

The steam boats on the Mississippi, Ohio, &c.
travel at the rate of about 60 miles a day, heavily
laden and against the stream ; they are from 50
to 400 tons burthen.

Shawnee Town is 1200 miles from New Orleans,
which distance may be performed by the steam
boats in 20 days : this is the nearest point on
the Ohio to our intended residence 45 miles
distant, from which we have a navigable com-
munication by the Wabash. Not a settlement in
this neighbourhood is of a year's standing; no
hai-vest has yet been reaped, and our approach
may probably remove many of them, unless our
dollars can prevail upon them to try agricultural
labour, instead of trusting to the precarious supply
of their beloved rifle : half a dozen of these people
have already offered to sell us their all, fat cattle,
hogs, and their first crop of corn just now matur-
ing ; if we purchase, they will go farther, and
build other cabins. That our friends in England
may have an idea of our real position, let them
consider that our two families (that of Mr. George
Flower and my own) are about to be fixed upon
two adjoining estates of 1440 acres each, which
we have chosen from a beautiful prairie and its
adjoining woods. Here we are preparing to
build ; builders have offered themselves, and ma-
terials are at hand; we are also preparing for
gardens and orchards, that we may really sit
down under our own vines and our own fig trees.
Cattle and hogs thrive well on the food they find,

and require little care, except to protect them
from the wolves and bears, keeping them tame
by frequently giving them salt. On these estates
we may hope to live much as we do in England •
but this is not the country for fine ladies and
gentlemen.

The report of our intended settlement spreads
far and wide ; and such is the attraction of popula-
tion to capital, that many entries are already made
and applications daily occur. Our design is to build
cabms, with enclosures of two acres and a half each
along the sides of a section, which is reserved as J
cow pasture. These cottages and enclosures, with a
well between two, may be rented by persons who
resort to us for the sake of good earnings. Here
then is a town about to rise before us, and it is
the mtention of Mr. Flower and myself to purchase
one or two townships in the Illinoi.« territory, where
the country is partly prairie and partly woodland,
A township contains 36 square miles, or sections,
each containing 640 acres; the whole, 20 040
acres ; these lands we shall probably offer in sec-
tions, haif-sections, quarters, and eighths, that is
in portions of 640, 320, 160, and 80 acres. To
prevent the sufferings to which poor emigrants
are exposed, it is a material part of our plan to
have m readiness for every poor family a cabin
an enclosed garden, and a cow and a hog, with
land for summer, and winter food for cows pro-
portioned to their number. We wish it to be
understood, that we would not bind others, nor be

. as

bound ourselves, by any ties but those of natural
interest and good neighbourhood, nor be subject
to any law but the law of the land ; yet we hope
that no persons will attempt to possess themselves
of these lands on account of the low price at which
we shall offer them, unless they intend to reside
thereon ; and our opinion is, that it would be
more advantageous to the resident proprietor to
possess a capital of from 4 to 51. per acre, rather
than burthen himself with more land than he has
the means to manage.

We shall have a good market for our produce,
either from the growing population, or by export-
ing down the Ohio.

We have no wish to form a society entirely
English, nor indeed any society distinct from
the people at large j we would extend our pro-
posals to emigrants of any nation having the re-
quisite capital; a combination of capital and
people is the only thing which can prevent many
privations, and even sufferings, in these remote
regions. Such persons as wish for, and cannot
otherwise obtain information, will please to direct
their inquiries to Morris Birkbeck, Princetown,
Gibson County, Indiana, America.

In Mr. Birkbeck's letters from his residence, in
1817 and 1818, he further states, that the land is
fertile and easy of tillage, no rent, no tithe, nopoor's
rate, and taxes scarcely one fartliing per acre*.

* The tax upon first and second rate land is more tl.an this
according to other accounts. Vide pages 10 and 5 4.

" Our main object" (he says) " will be live stock,
cattle, and hogs; four cents, or two-pence per
pound, you will consider too low to include a pro-
fit, but you must recollect we have no rent, tithes,
&c. to pay, and the rearing of live stock is so little
expense that the receipts are nearly all clear.

" We have no very good mill seats on our
streams, but an excellent site for a wind-mill.

" It is sometimes very cold here for a short
period, when the wind is north-west, the ther-
mometer falling rapidly to 7° or 8° below zero*.

" I calculate your expense of travelling here
from Baltimore at about five pounds per headt;

* The compiler of these pages has been careful in extracting the
state of the thermometer (Fahrenheit), from the different works he
has consulted, and to which he recommends the reader's particular
attention, as being of great assistance in forming a correct idea
of the climate of the several countries, which cannot be done by
a mere comparison of their latitudes. It will be seen that the
winters at Hobart town in Y-dU Dieman's Island, latitude 43°
south (notwithstanding this hemisphere is known to be colder than
the northern) are not so severe as at Mr. Birkbeck's settlement in
north latitude about 38' ; and Quebec in Canada, where the snow
remains on the ground for six months, is nearly in the same lati-
tude as Lyons, Milan, and Venice. The whole of the American
continent, indeed, is several degrees colder than other parts of the
world under similar latitudes.

t This calculation must be erroneous, unless it be meant for
the emigrant to walk the whole way, with his luggage upon his
back. It appears, that the e iense of conveyance by the waggon
from Baltimore to Pittsburg, L jth for passengers and luggage (ac-
cording to Mr. Birkbeck's own account), is sixpence per lb. and
reckoning only 200 pounds upon an average for a man and his
luggage, which is surely moderate enough, the 5/. will be expended
in the journey to Pittsburg exclusive of subsistence. Without

your luggage should be composed of light articles
the carriage from Baltimore to Pittsburg bcinJ
sixpence per lb. ®

" We have the New York daUy papers at nine
dollars per annum, and the weekly papers of the
western country, at two dollars*."

Bristed, in his account of America, gives the
toUowing particulars.

In the state of Louisiana, the sugar planta-
tions are rapidly increasing ; twenty million pounds
ot sugar are supposed to have been made in 1817-
the culture of the cane is not more laborious thail
that of cotton, and less liable to accidents ; a mode-
rate crop produces 1000 pounds of sugar per acre.
The manufacture of wool is becoming consider.

meamng ,„ depreciate rte information afforded by Mr. Birkbeck

that ■„ wh,ch he .aeao. to settle, and with a pre-detern,i„ation to
pas, there the remainder of his days, .t is .ell known how.! ^
men are to snpport by ar^men. a„y resolution they „a 'he
adopted; and „„h„„t aeenslng this gentleman of misLrclntl
t.on, ,t may be fair ,„ presume, that he has ■■ p„, tblbest 1:
.pen every thing :" add to whieh, that Mr.B, is sl.ppos d 'ht"
taken „,th h,m eonsideraWe wealth, in whieh ease! difficul ies
Jh,ch to another might be insnrmonntable, wonld Z^Z

zzTX"':" ""' "^ """"^ "'^'' «'»"'"« "''" '^

sunsninc ot his own prosperity,
* Mr. Birkbeck omits to state that this price is «rf„«W of
e pes ^e from which the American newspa ers are nTt Z;'
It « 111 be also seen, ,n page 59, that Mr. Fcaron's inforraatil
«,peet,ng the price of these pa,«rs diflcrs from that oTMr B

D 2

able. The nk rino breed of sheep thrives well, anJ
their number '* j fast increasing ; the whole number
of sheep at present in the United States is already
twenty millions, and the British Isles contain no
more than thirty millions.

The Alleghany mountains, which divide the
Atlantic rivers from the western waters, preserve
thrc J ^'it a nearly equal distance of 250 miles
from iitlantic Ocean, and a nearly uniform

elevation of 3000 feet above the level of the sea.

In the United States there are 400 water and
horse mills*, 2000 fulling mills, 300 gunpowder
mills, 600 furnaces, forges, &c., and 200 paper mills.
. Numbers of vessels are now building on the
Ohio ; shipwrights would consequently be sure of
employment there.

The population of the United States is about
four to a square mile.

From the travels of Mr. Henry Fearon over the
United States, in 1817 and 1818, are extracted the
following additional particulars.

Baltimore.
Baltimore is a commercial city of great im-
portance j and though not at present of the first
rank, is rising with a rapidity almost unparalleled.
Its population is now upwards of 60,000.

Steam-boats proceed from this place to Norfolk
in Virginia, and to New London in Connecticut,
by way of New York. In the winter months this
* Supposed for grinding corn.

delightful mode of travelling is interrupted j miser-
able stages and bad ro^ds are theii its substitute.

The most accurate information which I can
obtain, causes me to believe, that capital could
be profitably employed here, in importing dry
goods from Great Britain ; that mechanics in the
usual businesses can get ready employment, will
receive i4}s. 6d, per week, and pay for their board
and lodging 15*. 9d. to 18*.

There are theatres in this as well as in almost
every town that contains a population of 2000.

Rents, occupations, price of labour, &c. &c. are
pi-ccisely similar to those of the other Atlantic cities.

New York.

Rents are extremely high : a house and sliop
equal to one in the best part of Holborn, or Grace-
church-street, from 4 to 600/. per annum ; taxes
about 20/.

Carpenters, masons, shoemakers, and cabinet-
makers, receive good wages, and are generally
sure of employment. * Lawyers, doctors, school-
masters, clerks and shopmen, can scarcely subsist.
The capital requisite for commencing business
with a prospect of success is as follows.

Distiller

Carver and gilder

Bookseller

Dyer

Oil and colourman

Boot and shoemaker

Tailor

£.
From 1000

£.
to 20y000

800

2000

1000

10,000

200

5000

800

1200

100

200

-50n

onnn

The profits of a tailor with this capital would
be very large. A good cabinet-maker, with 100/.
after paying the expenses of his voyage, would
obtain a comfortable livelihood ; as also would an
active speculating carpenter, or mason, under the
same circumstances. The wages of a journeyman
carpenter is 75. lOid. per day ; of a mason Ss. 5d. ;
this difference arises, I believe, from the latter
being an out-door business, which, in the winter
months, from the extreme severity of the weather,
is of necessity suspended. Cabinet-makers are
paid by the piece. When in full employment
their earnings may amount to 50s. per week ; a
safe average is 36*. A man in either of the above
trades need not be apprehensive of not obtain-
ing a livelihood. A journeyman gilder would not
succeed ; a carver perhaps might.

A master shoemaker would not benefit by coming
here ; a journeyman may.

A tallow-chandler in London who can save 50/.
per annum, would not be benefited in his finances
by removing to this country.

Tailors are numerous. The price of a super-
fine coat is from 7/. 4*. to 8/. 2*. They are paid
for making a common coat, 18*. a best ditto, 27*.
If a journeyman finds the trimmings, he receives
for a best coat 45*. to 51*. For making trowser?,
9*. A man may earn when employed from Sijs.
to 54*. per week. Apprentices can be had for
three, seven, or ten years; seven is the usual
period. A journeyman can have the work of an
apprentice under him. If a man has not f-erved

his time, it is of no consequence in any business ;
competency, not legal servitude, being the standard
for employment. A man that can cut out well
will be occasionally well paid. An additional
tailor does not seem now wanted in New York,
yet I should not be apprehensive of the success
of a man of business who possessed the capital
before-mentioned. Moderate credit is received,
Jong credit is given.

Printers are paid 2/. 5s. per week, but employ-
ment cannot be depended upon; a great portion
B^ of the work is done by boys.

Boarding. Persons who are not housekeepers
generally live at boarding-houses, or hotels. A
mechanic pays for his board and lodging about 16*.
per week ; for which he has three good substantial
meals a day. Other persons pay from 8 to 14 dol-
lars per week, according to the situation, accom-
modation, and respectability. At a moderately
respectable house the charge is 8 dollars per
week for what is called a "transient man;" or 5
to 6 dollars for a three months* resident*.

Clothing and domestic utensils are chiefly of
British manufacture ; they are from 25 to 150 per
cent dearer than in England : Indian goods are
much cheaper; silk pocket handkerchiefs not more
than half the price.

There is no estabhshed religion, and conse-
quently no tithes.

Horses, about New York, are small but good ;
• For market price of provisions, &c. vide memoranda.

J! : l!'

one for a waggon costs about 22/. -, saddle ditto
S5L i gig ditto from 34>L to 56L A carriage or fine
riding horse from 90/. to 120/. Cows from <)/. to
13/. 10^. Sheep very small, and sell from 9s. to 13s.
A good farm cart, 9/. A waggon, 23/. 7'he wages
of a farmer»s man servant from 24/. to 30/. j of a
woman from 12/. to 16/. per annum, and board.

The thermometer is from 66° to 70°, from the
1st of April to the middle of May; in July and
August it is yS*' to 1)0%. in March and April the
weather is subject to sudden changes ; the cold
sometimes intense, with much raw rain and easterly
winds J June is a delightful month, as are also
parts of September, and the whole of October.
The summer heats and winter colds are usually
extreme. New York is in north latitude 40° 40'.
The capitalist may manage to obtain 7 per cent
with good security. The lawyer and doctor will
not succeed. An orthodoa^ minister would do so.
The proficient in the fine arts will find little
encouragement. The literary man must starve.
The tutors' posts are pre-occupied. The shop-
keeper may do as well, but not better than in
London, unless he be a man of superior talent and
large capital ; for such requisites I think there is a
fine opening. The farmer (says Mr. Cobbett)
must labour hard, and be but scantilyremunerated.
The clerk and shopman w'ill get but little more
than their board and lodging. Mechanics, whose
trades are of the>*/ necesslft/, will do well ; those
not such, or who understand only the cotton,

woollen, glass, earthenware, silk, and stocking
manufactures, cannot obtain employment. The
labouring man will do well ; particularly if he
have a wife and children who are capable of con-
tributing, not merely to the consuming, but to
the earning also, of the common stock.

In order to give an idea of the agriculture and
population of the country, it occurred to me to
take an account, as far as I could, of the live
stock, &c. which I saw upon the road ; that by •
comparing it with what you would yourself see
under similar circumstances on an English road,
you may gain some useful ideas on the subject.
During the route of 180 miles, then, which I have
just traversed in the state of New York, I counted
25 cows, 10 horses, 6 small farmers* waggons, 3
men travelling on foot, 4 on horseback, 2 families
in waggons, and 1 on foot, removing to the western
country. There were no beggars ; none who ap-
peared much distressed. The cows and horses
are smaller than ours; but they are compact in
shape, and well fed.

Albany, the capital of the state of New York,
is distant from that city about 160 miles, and lies
at the head of the sloop navigation of the Hudson
river. Should the canal to Lake Erie be com-
pleted, this must become a first-rate town ; it is
even at present a place of considerable business.

The population is about 12,000. Wages are
about the same as at New York ; a mechanic's

board about 3 dollars per week ; I pay at my inn
H dollar per day. Rent of u house and shop, in
a good situation, is from .5 to 700 tlollars per
annum, taxes about '^0. There are many small
wood houses, which are from 50 to 150 dollars
per annum,

PlIILADELPHIA.

This city contains 1'20,(K)0 inhabitants; the
prices of provisions, Sec. are about equal to those
at New York.

A few evenings since 1 saw a carpenter and
his wife who have been here one month, from
Hull in Yorkshire. The husband stated, that in
England he could earn 21*. per week ; that he
now obtains 31*. Gd.; that he finds great difficulty
in getting his money from his employer; that
« taking one thing with another," the expense of
living is as nearly like that in England as possi-
ble; that had he been acquainted with every thing
he at present knows, he would not ' ave left home;
but that having done so, he is well satisfied ; and
has now saved some money— a thing which he
had hardly ever done before. I state this man's
information, because I consider it deserving of
your confidence. It is equally free from the wild
rhapsodies of some persons, and the deplorable
pictures which several Englishmen in this city,
and in other parts of the union, have given me of
their disappointments, and of America in general.
The carpenter's success is just what would attend

any otlicr industrious man of the same business,
or of several others previously enumerated. Hij^
idea of the difficulties which he had encountered
are natural, as he has not been en/raged sufficiently
long in other pursuits to obliterate these impres-
sions. Could I see him in twelve months from*
the present time, I think his condition would be,
if I may judge from others, something like the
following :— saved 14 guineas; living in two small
rooms; independent of his master, and his master
of him ; thinks the Americans a very dirty and
disagreeable people, and hates them from his soul;
would be delighted to see old England again, and
smoke his pipe and drink his pint, and talk poli-
tics with the cobbler, and abuse the taxes ; but
recollects that when he got to Hull, his most la-
borious application would not more than provide
him with a bare subsistence. He then determines
to remain in America, keep the money which he
has ^avedy add as much more to it as he can, and
make himself as contented and happy as lies in
his power.

The man of small property, who intends living
upon the interest, and wants to remove to a
cheaper country than England, should pause be-
fore the object of ?iis choice be America. From
what I have seen of large towns, living is not,
upon tJw >whole, lower than in English cities. In
the interior, it may be lesp than in the country
parts of England. But such a man must of ne-
cessity have his ideas of happiness associated with

Tnany sources of gratification, which he would
seek for in vain within the United States.

A practice which has been often referred to
in connexion with this country, naturally excited
my attention. It is that of individuals emigrating
•from Europe without money, and paying for their
passage by binding themselves to the captain, who
receives the produce of their labour for a certain
number of years. Such is the mercenary barba-
rity of the Americans who are engaged in this
trade, that they crammed into one of those ves-
sels 500 passengers, 80 of whom died on the
passage. The price for men is 80 dollars, women
70, and boys 60.

October, I8I7. Left Philadelphia for Pittsburg.
Passed through an extensive, fertile, well-culti-
vated, and beautiful tract of land called the
" Great Valley." Farms in this district are chiefly
owned by Dutch and Germans, and their de-
scendants. They consist of from 50 to 200 acres,
each acre worth 200 dollars (45/.) ; and are
cheaper at that price than the 50 cent, and dollar
and half lands, which encumber other parts of the
eastern states. The substantial barns, fine private
dwellings, excellent breed and condition of live
stock, and superior cultivation of the ** Great
Valley," place it decidedly in advance of the
neighbouring lands, and put it fairly in competi-
tion with Old England.

There are good farms in other districts within
20 miles of Philadelphia, which can be purchased

at from 80 to 100 dollars per acre, buildings in-
cluded. Lime-stone land will sell for 200 dollars.
In a farm of 200 acres, the proportion may be
estimated at 90 acres of ploughing land, 50 of
meadov/, 10 of orchard, and 50 of wood. The
latteTf near the city, is worth from 3 to 400 dollars
per acre. A farm of the above description, if
within five miles of the capital, is worth 20,000
dollars ; at from 20 to 40 miles distance, 10,000
dollars. Uncleared lands in remote parts of the
state, vary in price from half a dollar to 20 dol-
lars per acre.

The Pennsylvanian horse is a medium between
our saddle and heavy cart-horse, and is well suited
for most purposes. They are worth from 50 to
150 dollars. A farm waggon will cost 100 to 120
dollars. A family ditto 70 to 90 dollars; ditto
with springs, 150 dollars ; neat gig, 300 j best
ditto, 450 ; a farm cart, 50 dollars. The annual
expense of keeping a family waggon and horse is
about 50 dollars.

Well improved land will produce on an average
25 bushels of wheat per acre (a farmer within
eight miles of the city has raised 40), ditto of In-
dian corn 25 to 50. Wheat is sold at from 160
to 220 cents (7*. M. to 9*. lid.) per bushel; In-
dian corn, 80 to 100 cents ; oats, 40 to 55 cents ;
they are lighter than the English. Meadows are
usually ploughed in rotation, and planted with
Indian corn. Orchards are also put under the
plough, grain not being considered as injurious to

the fruit. A good milch cow, four years old, is
worth 5L I3s. 6d, Sheep are much smaller than
ours: half blood Merino are lU. 3d.; three
quarters blood, 13.. 6d.; full ditto, m. 6d.; rams
are 41. lOs, to 11/. Qs. 6d.; pigs four weeks olc'
are 2s. 3d.; a sow and ditto, 1/. 11.. 6rf. to 2/. 14. •
a hog of 100 pounds, 1/. 1 1.. Qd. to 21 5s. ; a yoke
of oxen, 151. I5s. to 28/. 10..

A copper and zinc mine is worked about 20
miles from Philadelphia. Iion ore abounds through-
out the state. Bar-iron sells for 120 dollars per
ton. '

The character of the inhabitants of the Alle
ghany mountains appears cold, friendless, unfeel-
ing, callous, and selfish. AH the emigrants with
vrhom I conversed complained of the enormous
charges at taverns. Log-houses are the only ha-
bitations for many miles. They are formed of the
trunks of trees, about twenty feet in length, and
SIX mches in diameter, cut at the ends and placed
upon each other. The roof is framed in a similar
manner. In some houses there are windows: in
others the door performs a double office. The
chimney is erected outside, and in a similar man-
ner to the body of the house. Some have clay in
their chimneys, which is a precaution very neces-
sary m these western palaces. In some, the space
between the logs remains open j in others it is
filled with clay. The hinges are generally wood.
Locks are not used. In some there are two apart-
mentsj m others but one, for all the various

operations of cooking, eating, sleeping, and upon
great occasions washing. The pigs also come in
for their due share of the log residence.

From Greensburg to Pittsburg the improve-
ment in size and quality of the houses is evident.
Recurring to my old plan of estimation, I passed
on my road from Chambersburg to Pittsburg,
being 153 miles, 103 stage-waggons drawn by 4.
and 6 horses, proceeding from Philadelphia and
Baltimore to Pittsburg; 79 from Pittsburg to Bal-
timore and Philadelphia; 63 waggons with fami-
lies, from the several places following : 20 from
Massachusetts, 10 from the district of Maine, 14.
from Jersey, 13 from Connecticut, 2 from Mary-
land, 1 from Pennsylvania, 1 from England, 1
from Holland, and 1 from Ireland; about 200
persons on horseback, 20 on foot, 1 beggar, 1 fa-
mily, with their waggon, from Cincinnati, entirely
disappointed ; a circumstance which, though rare,
IS by no means, as some might suppose, mira-
culous: and another from Somersetshire, sorely
regretting that they had ever been persuaded to
leave their own country.

Pittsburg.
Pittsburg is in several points of view a most
interesting town ; from its natural situation being
at the termination of two, and the commencement
of a third river, which has a direct communica-
tion with the ocean, though at the almost incredi-
ble distance of 2500 miles : its scenery, which is

truly picturesque; its exhaustless possession of
that first-rate material for manufactures, coal ;
and lastly, its importance as being the connecting
link between new and old America : and though
it is not at present a " Birmingham," as the na-
tives bombastically call it, yet it certainly con-
tains the seeds of numerous important manufac-
tories. The published accounts of this city are
so exaggerated and out of all reason, that strangers
are usually disappointed on visiting it. This,
however, was not my case. I have been in some
measure tutored in American gasconade. When I
am told that at a particular hotel there is liandsome
accommodation, I expect that they are one re-
move from very bad ; if *' elegant entertainment,"
I anticipate tolerable ; if a person is " a clever
man," that he is not absolutely a fool ; and if a
manufactory is the ''Jirst in the world,'* I expect,
and have generally found, that about six men and
three boys are employed.

Prices.

Beef and Mutton

i.
1 are 0

s.
to 0

4~ per pound.

Pork

. 0

Cheese

. 0

Butter

. . 0

Tea

. 6

Moist sugar

. 0

Loaf sugar

Coffee

. 0

Potatoes

. 2

4i per bushel.

Porter

. 0

6x per quart.

Fowls are

Ducks .

Geese .

Turkeys

Flour

Coal . '.

Mechanics' board

•

. 2

1 li each

1 8
3 to 3 4
H b 8

0 31 6 per barrel of 196 lbs.

0 4 per bushel.
9 to 18 0 per week.

Farming,
Agricultural produce finds here a ready and
an advantageous market. Farming in this neigh-
bourhood is not the most profitable mode of em-
ploymg capital j but it is here, as in all other
parts of the union, an independent mode of life.
The farmer must labour hard with his own hands ;
the help which he pays for will be dear, and not
of that kind to be relied on in the mode of its
execution, as in England. This may not proceed
from a worse state of character, but a difference in
condttton, as compared with our working class.
They are paid about 14 dollars per month, and
board ; in many instances they expect to sit down
with the master, to live as well, and to be upon
terms of equality with every branch of the family;
and if this should be departed from, the scythe
and the sickle will be laid down« in the midst of
harvest. There is a class of men throughout the
western country called « merchants," who in the
summer and autumn months collect flour, butter,
cheese, pork, beef, whiskey, and every species of
farming produce, which they send in flats and
keel-boats to the New Oilcans market. The de-

mand created by this trade, added to a large
domestic consui%tion, insures the most t&tnote
farmer a certain market. Some of these specu-
lators have made large fortunes.

Land in the neighbourhood of Pittsburg is worth
100 dollars per acre ; at a distance of from 5 to
20 miles, tracts have been recently sold at from
20 to 50 dollars per acre. Wheat brings a dollar
a bushel ; Indian corn 75 cents a bushel. A four
year bid cart-horse is worth from 20 to 80 dol-
lar; a gig ditto, 50 to 100; a saddle ditto, SO
'to 150 ; a farmer's waggon, 100 dollars ; a family
:diitto, from 50 to 70 ; cart, 50. A cow and calf,
dbout 25 dollars. "Sheep are from 1 to 8 dollars ;
live hogs from 2jrf. to 4^fi?. per pound; a good
roasting pig, 4*. 6d, Wool is biit little in demand

'siiice the termination of the war: Mr. of

Lexington informs me, he intends making a ship-
itient of it for Liverpool : should this succeed, it
will open a heW source of profit to the western
fartner. Clean Merino is worth here 5s. "Sd. to
6s. 9d. per pound ; fleece, 3*. 5d. ; half bred, 2*. 3d. ;
quarter. Is. dd. A brick house, two stories high,
containing ten rooms, may be built, with good
management, in the country, for 4000 dollars
(900/.), as the bricks can be made upon the land,
and the *' help*' boarded in the house. In towns,
a similar building will cost 6000 dollars, exclusive
of the ground, which, in particular situations, as
of all towns that promise well, is dearer than the
ifiost choice spot in the city of London !

^am/fictories in and near the «Vy of Pittsburg, in the Stt^eof
Pennatflvanifi, in the jfear 1817.

Manuracturera.

J Auger-jnaker
1 BelTows-maker .
18 Blacksmiths
3 Brejvers .

3 Brush-makers ". '.
I Button-maHer
2, Cotton-spinners and carder-

^i ^<*pP«''-8™iths and tin-plate workers
7 Cabinet-makers .

1 Cqrrier

2 Cutlers

4 Iron^founders ....

3 Gun-smiths, and bridle-bit-makers

2 Flint-glass manufacturers

3 Gr^en (window) ditto

2 Hardware .
7. Hatters
1 ,Lock.smith
1 Linen .

7 Nail . . .
1 Paper
1 Pattern

3 Plane
1 Patten

1 Rope manufacturer
1 Spinning-machine

1 Spanish brown .
.1 Silyer-pUter

2 Steam-engine makers

6 Saddlers . ,

5 Silversmiths and watch-menders
14 Shoe and boot makers

7 Tanners and curriers
4 Tallowchandlers
4 Tobacconists

6 WaggQUrwakers

2 Weavers

3 Windsor chair
2 Woollen .
1 Wire-drawer
1 White-lead

No. of men
eniployed.

146

6
3

7fl

17
7
6

36
100

6
87
14

49
7,

40
*2I

.6
5
8
6
2

109

7
28
21

9
23
30
12

Veariy Amount.
:Dollwri.

3,500

io,6d6

75,ipo

72,000
8,6b0
6,250

25,518
200,000

40,000

12,000

2,4Qp

,180,0p0

13,800
119,000
130,000

18,000
44,640

li2,0tJ0

22>,000

1,74,716

23,000

1,500
57,600

8,000
15,000

6,000

6,720

20,000

125,000

86,000

12,000

120,00'0

68,800

32,600

21,000

28„500

14,562

42,600

17,000

6,000

40,000

5 2801 1,896,396

♦ By comparing the returns with the numlMr of men
there must be some mistake in this article.

employed, it is supposed

Some of the preceding manufactories may be
denominated first-rate: this remark applies par-
ticularly to the nail, steam-engine (high pressure)
and glass establishments: I was astonished to
witness such perfection.

The state of trade is at present dull ; but that
there is a great deal of busines". done must be
evident, from the quantity of " dry goods" and
"grocery stores," many of the proprietors of which
have stocks as heavy as the majority of London
retail dealers. Rents, of course, vary according
to situation : houses in the best stands for busi-
ness are from 400 to 800 dollars per annum;
others are from 150 to 350 ; two rooms, or a very
small house, a little way out of town, would be 80
dollars per annum. It is difficult to form a judg-
ment whether there is an opening in any of the
present established businesses. One fact strongly
V in favour of the stability of this town is, that there
has not been a hcailcruptcy in it for three years! ! !
a singular contrast this with New York, in which
the last published list of insolvents contained up-
wards of 400 names. '

I should have sanguine hopes of the success of
an extensive coarse pottery here.

A brewery' upon a large scale with adequate
skill and capital would succeed extremely well:
there are at present three in the business at Pitts-
burg, but the beer is very bad : the capital re-
quired would be from 7 to 15,000/. Porter is 8
dollars per barrel, and 6|e/. per quart.

</.

il.

Tailors earn
Carpenters

from

31
31

6 to
6

0 per weck^
6

1^ arc now'w«ll
/ employed.

dull

Baker

•

dull

Mason

brisk

Shoemaker

brisk

Blacksmith

dull

Tinman

dull

Printer

dull

Weaver

no employment.

Glass-blower

duU

Glass-cutter

dull

Hatter

brisk

Brewer

dull

Nail-cutter

UUII

brisk.

Upon the whole, I consider Pittsburg to be a
very important town, and have no doubt that it
will gradually advance in prosperity ; and that
the time must come when it will be an extensive
and populous city. The present population is
10,000, made up from all nations; and, of course,
not free from the vices of each : this indeed is
but too apparent upon a very short residence.

State of the Ohio.
The face of the country is an uninterrupted
level. Many of those tracts of land which would
be desirable for our settlement, should we turn
agriculturaUsts, are pre-occupied, and cannot be
bought without an advance which I think dispro-
portionate to their actual value. The agent at

ifli

thte hmd-office informs me, there are still one mil-
lion ot acres of United States land for sale, at 2
dollars per acre, or 1 dollar G4 cents prompt pay-
ment. Ih all states there are government re-
servatfori lands j th^se are genei-ally in the most
choice situations. Some such tracts hate been
Bold in the wild state in Tennessee, at the last
auction, for the large sum of 38 dollars per acre.

Taxeis on wild land are, on first-rate, Q dollars
per hundred acres, Ij dollar on second rate, 1
dollar on third rate. There is also a county tax
of half tne above amounts, as tlie case may be.
These taxes of 6s. 9d. to 13*. C)d. on an hundred
acres are certainly very small ; yet you would be
surprised to witness the numerous lots of lands
which are sold at auction in all the states on ac-
count of non-payment of taxes, and transferred to
the highest bidder.

The section of coiintry bounding on the Ohio
river, from 25 miles on either side of Cincinnati,
and extending back about 100 miles directly north,
to the late Indian boundary line, is generally an
excellent body of land, and is well settled, though
but small improvements are yet made, except in
k few particitlar pldces hear tdVns. The land is
fclb^fely tinfibierfed, eicfept hear the head waters of
ihe two MiaradS, where there l& a beautiful chariii
J)digii cbtintty. The pi^irife^j or natural itiejidows;
ai-e here bf considerable extent. Graiirig is the
chief occupation of the itihabitants. Farms Whith

a?e called improved can be bought at froixi 8 to
30 dollars per acre ; the improvements often qonsist
of the erection of rough log buildings, and from
12 to 20 acres under middling cultivation : build-
ings are included in the price per acrt. The next
class of farms have from 20 to 50 acres unde^
cultivation j the proportion of arable and wood
is about two thirds, of meadow and pasturage
nearly equal proportions. Any of the land is
here capable, by culture, of being turned into
meadow. The Miamas are navigable in the spring
and autumn. Limestone abounds ; coal and iron
have not yet been discovered except in the eastern
part of the state. Wheat sells now in the Chilli-
cothe and Cincinnati markets for 3s. 4jd per
bushel ; rye, 2s, S^d. j Indian corn, 2s, 3d.

There are large prairies in Ross county, on th?
north branch of Paint creek, near Chillicoth^i
they are fdled with herds of cattle fattening for
the Baltimore and Philadelphia markets, which
are sold in this State, on the hoof, for about 3
dollars per cwt. The chief expense of pasturage
consists in a man's wages to look after the herds,
twice a week giving them salt, &c.

The yearly wages, I am informed, of a labouring

man, is from 58/. 10*. to 65/. ; of awoman, 31/. 10*.

Wood for firing is sold in the towns at from IJ

to 3 dollars per cord (equal in consumption to

half a chaldron of coals.)

With regard to the seasons, they are said to

.50

hs^ severe winters of from three to four months;
with a keen dry air, and cloudless sky ; during
summer, excessive heat (thermometer in the
shade, 80° to 96°) with heavy dews at hight;
springs, cold and heavy rains ; autumns, fine ;
followed by " Indian summer^ which is truly
delightful. In regard to healthiness of situation,
there is considerable variety, as the appearance
of the inhabitants will in some measure indicate j
though as a general characteristic, I would say[
there is a want of sound regular health, at least if
our EngUsh ideas of ruddy cheeks are to be taken
as a criterion. The people are of a tall, multi/.
aspect, and seem, even during their most active
occupations, to be the victims of fever and ague.

The wild animals are neither numerous not
troublesome ; though the wolf and the squirrel
are stiU depredators ; but the sport afforded in
capturing them, and the addition which the flesh
of the latter makes to the family stock of pro-
visions, compensate for their lawless invasions of
the rights of property.

'^ The interior population may perhaps be di-
vided into three classes : First, the squatter, or
man who « sit^ himself down," upon land which
is not his own, and for which he pays nothing;
cultivates a sufficient extent to supply himself
and family with the necessaries of life ; remains
until he is dissatisfied with his choice j has realized
a sufficiency to become a land-owner j or is ex-

pelled by the real proprietor. Second, the smaller
farmer, who has recently emigrated, had barely
sufficient to pay the first instalment for his 80 or
160 acres of 2 dollar land; cultivates, or what he
calls improves, 10 to 30 acres ; raises a sufficient
" feed'* for his family j is in a condition which, if
compelled by legislative acts, or by external Jbrce to
endure, would be considered truly wretched ; but
from being his own master, having made his own
choice, from the having " no one to make him
afraid," joined with the consciousness that, though
slowly, he is regularly advancing towards wealth j
the breath of complaint is seldom heard to escape
from his lips. Third, the wealthy or *• strong
handed** farmer, who owns from 500 to 1200
acres, has one fourth to one third under cultiva-
tion, of a kind much superior to the former;
raises live stock for the home and Atlantic city
markets; sends beef, pork, cheese, lard, and
butter to New Orleans j is perhaps a legislator,
at any rate a squire (magistrate) ; is always a man
0^ plain business-like sense, though not in posses-
sion, nor desirous of a very- cultivated intellect;
understands his own interest, and that of his
country ; lives in sufficient affluence, and is pos-
sessed of comfort, according to the American ac-
ceptation of the term, but to which we " old
country" folks must feel inclined to take an ex-
ception; but, in conclusion, and a most im-
portant conclusion it is, the majority of this class
of men were, 10 or 15 years ago, inhabitants of

the eastern States, and not worth, upon their
arrival in Ohio, twenty dollars.

Well prepared land in this State produces,
per acre,

bushela.

Wheat .

Indiaa corn

•

from 50 to 75

Rye

•

50 . 75

Horses are worth from 40 to 100 dollars. Cows
(four years old) 12 to 20 dollars.

The management of farms is full a century be-
hind that of England, there being here a want of
improved machinery for the promotion of economy
in time and labour, and no regular attention to
the condition of live stock, while the mode of cul-
ture in general appears slovenly and unsystematic.
Cows are milked sometimes twice, and sometimes
once a day, at others four times a week. Barns
are erections which you would not know by that
name, and which must materially deteriorate the
annual receipts.

Many persons in this State have coloured peo-
ple, whom they call their property. The mode in
which they effect this perpetuation of slavery, in
violation of the spirit of the Ohio constitution, is
to purchase blacks, and have them apprenticed to
them. Some arc so base as to take these negroes
down the river, at the approach of the expiration
of their apprenticeship, and sell them at Natchez
for life !

Yet the first article of the Ohio constitution

isy " All mjSn are bom eqita% free and inde^
pendent"

ClNClNNAtl.

You are aware of the sudderi rise and improve-
ment of this town j the present population is said
to be between 8 and 10,000, including blacks,
who are rather numerous.

The school-house^ when the trhole plan is com-
pleted, will be a fine and extensive structure. In
the first apartment on the ground floor, the Lan-
casterian plan is already in successful operation j
I counted 150 schoLjs, among whom were chil-
dren of the most respectable persons in the town.
This school-house isi like most establishments in
this country, a joint stock concern. The terms
fcif education, in the Lancasterian department,
are, to share-holders, ll*. dd» per quarter j others
IS*. 6rf.: historical, &c* department are, to share-
holders, 11. 2s. 6d. per quarter j others, 1/. 7^. In
the department of languages, the charge is, to
share-holders, 1/. 16*. per quarter ; others, 21. 5s.

There are two newspapers in the town ; the im-
pression of each is said to be 1200 per week :
terms o£ subscription 3 dollars and 50 cents, per
annum, or, if paid in advance, 2 dollars and 50
cents.

The woollen manufactory, the steam grist mill,
and a glass-house, are on a tolerably large scale :
the two former are said not to pay the proprietors.
In the main street, English goods abound in as

srreat nrnfusinn as in Chennsiff/'.

t_' X - \J — — 1 "~"

A first-rate sliop

i]\',

sells every thing; keeps a stock of from ^0 to"
30,000 dollars; annual returns may be 50,000
dollars, upon half of which they give from 6 to 18
months credit, and receive from 6 to 7 months,
but they can seldom pay at the specified time,
and then are charged 7 per cent, interest.

Before I leave Cincinnati, let. me say that I
think it a very handsome town ; a town, in fact,
that mi;st astonish every traveller, when he re-
collects how recently it has been established. A
Mr. Piatt, banker, is building a house here that
would not disgruce the very first London squares.
The number of moderate-sized, well-built brick
buildings is considerable ; the three markets are
excellent establishments; the churches are neat
and elegant ; some of the streets are paved, and
others are now paving ; ground for building in
the town is enormously dear; one particular spot,
which cost 18 years ago 30 dollars, is now worth
00,000.

The next consideration is, does this town offer
substantial inducement to settlers ? I think not :
it has advanced rapidly, but it cannot continue
to do so; the future progress is certain, but it
must be gradual. Property is as high here as in
Philadelphia, and all occupations are filled. On
the road every emigrant tells you he is going to
Ohio; when you arrive in Ohio, its inhabitants
are " moving'* to Missouri and Alabama : thus
it is that the point for final settlement is for ever
receding as you advance, and thus it will here-

after proceed, and only be terminated by that
effectual barrier the Pacific Ocean.

Illinois.

The towns of this territory are, Kaskaskia,
which contains about 150 houses, built on a plain;
some of them are of stone; it is 150 miles from
Vincennes, and 1000 from Washington ; the in-
habitants are chiefly French; the principal oc-
cupation is raising stock. This town has been
settled more than a century.

Shawnee Town, containing about 30 log-houses.
The chief occupation of the inhabitants is the salt
trade. There is here an "United States Land
Office," and a log bank is just established. The
chief cashier of this establishment was engaged in
cutting logs at the moment of my arrival. The
other towns are Wilkinson Ville, a miserable
settlement. Cahokia, containing 150 small houses,
chiefly inhabited by French. St. Philip, 50
miles from Cahokia, is smaller, but more pleasant.
Prairie du Rochers, containing 60 French fami-
lies ; this is a fine prairie. There are also three
other small places, called Belle Fontaine, L*Aigle,
and Edward's Ville, Land, in the old French
settlements, is worth from 1 to 50 dollars per acre.
The lands belonging to the Indians lie chiefly
between the Wabash and Illinois rivers. They
have considerable reservations north of the Illinois
river. The United States have lately obtained a
cession of six miles square, at the end of Peoria

1a!ke. The aborigines now remaimng are the
Soukies, who have three villages ; their number is
3000. The other tribes are much decreased in
number, in consequence of their wars with the
Soukies and Foxes.

Indian corn is the leading article of produce :
there are some fields oiP 500 acres, cultivated in
common by the people of a whole settlement.
Wheat is abundant, except where the soil is too
rich. Flax, hemp, oats, potatoes, and cotton, are
also productive, giving very considerable crops.
The French have made excellent wine from a wild
.grape which grows here luxuriantly. Indian
corn, I am informed, produces, with moderate
care and in a favourable soil, 50 to 70 bushels per
acre.

Whe»t
Barley •
fOats
.Tobacco

fipm 20
20
30
10

to 30 bushels.

. 30

. 50

. 1 13 hundred poynds.

Indian corn sells from 13c?. to l6id.
wheat, 35. 4i; oats, I5. 7lcf. ; tobacco,
•hundred. The price of horses is from
18/. Cows, 4/. to 51. J a good sow, 2/.
is sold at 225. 6d. per hundred; pork,
ISs.

Labourers are paid 2s. 3d. per day
Clothing and groceries are extremely
dian corn is gathered in November.

per bushel,
20s. 3d.]peT
131. 10s. to
Us. Beef
15*. 9d. to

and board.

dear. In-

WheatJs

«8

■cut in Jime, and housed in July. Park, for ex-
port, is killed in Oeoeraber. Freight from here
(Shawnee Town) to Louisville (307 mfles) is 5^.
per cwt. from Louisville Is. M, ; to New Orleans,
(1130 miles) 4>s,6d,^Jrom New Orleans, 20s. 3d.:^
to Pittsburg, (jlOlS miles) 15s. 9^. ;^o?w Pittsburg,
4>s. 6d, This va^ disproportion, in ifreight, is pro-
duced by the difference in time in navigating
up and down the streams of the Ohio and
Mississipi.

A log cabin, I am informed, can be raised for
11/. 5s. to 16/.; a frame-house, 10 to 14 feet squaie,
for 130/. to 150/. ; a log kitchen, 7/. to 8/.; a log
stable, 7/. to 91. ; a barn, 18/. to 22/. j fencing,
I'S.Sd. per rood:; ditching in prairie land. Is. 4id,
to 2s. per rood.

The inhabitants of Illinois may be ranked as
follows: lat, the Indian hunters, who are neither
different in character nor pursuits from their an-
cestors in the days of Columbus. 2d, the Squat-
fters. ^d, A medley of land jobbers, lawyers, doc-
tors, and farmers, who traverse this immense con-
tinent, founding settlements, and engaging in all
kinds of speculation. 4th, Some old French set-
tlers, possessed of considerable property, and living
in ease and comfort.

In the winter (which is not long) the thermo-
meter ranges from 10° below to 20" above zero.
In July and August from 85° to 105\

Concerning the state of society, my experience
does not allow me to say much, or to speak with

confidence. Small provocations insure the mo»t
relenUess and violent resentments. Duels are fre-
quent. The dirk is an inseparable companion of
all classes ; and the laws are robbed of their ter-
ror by not being firmly and equally administered.
A general character of independence, both as to
the means of living and habits of society, appears
universal. Here, no man is either thought or
called "master," neither, on the other hand, is
there found any coarse vulgarity. A cold, selfish
indifference is the common characteristic of the
labourer and the judge.

Mr. Birkbeck says, "the journeymen of Pitts-
burg, in various branches, shoemakers, tailors, &c.
earn two dollars a day (2/. 14.5. per week.) I have
only to remark on this, that in October I8I7,
when I was at the place in question, the earnings
per week were, according to the statements given
me by the mechf^nics themselves—tailors 1/. II 5.
6d. to 21, 5s ', shoemakers, 1/. lis. 6d. to 1/. I6s, ;
and all the mechanics with whom I conversed
complained of the difficulty which they expe-
rienced in getting paid for their labour, much of
what they did receive being given them in orders
upon shops for necessaries and clothing: the
extra price charged bythe shopkeeper, under these
circumstances, causing, in their judgment, a clear
loss to them of three quarters of a dollar per week.
On the grand subject, that of emigration, not-
withstanding all the captivating circumstances
stated as attendant upon it, a few facts are ad-

mMhyMv. Birkbeck himself, which require your
most dehberate and serious considerution.-Fk
then, that gentleman informs us, that "ev r^
semce performed by one man for another mu^

England; therefore, as long as the English emi
grant :s obliged to purchase more than he ellsof

second, "After you have used yourself to repose
on your own pallets, either on the floor of a cabr
or .mder the canopy of the Woods, with an u n
brella over your head, and a noble fire at your
feet, you wdl then escape the only serious nui-
sance of American travelling, viz. hot rooms and
swarming beds." Third, " A traveller should
always carry flint, steel, and a large knife or toma-
hawk, &c. &c."

The instances of great success, of which Mr.
Birkbeck states several, are no doubt correct , bu
he certain y might have enlarged the view I. has
token, and, perhaps, rendered it more correct by
the enumeration of many failures. At least, I

ules of this question ; but thinking the criterion
to be altogether an uncertain one, I waive their
enumeration. Such individual instances exist i"
every nation, and in every stage of society ; and
are ve^' frequently caused, not by pecuUarity of
country, but of individual character. A subject
however, of this magnitude must be viewed in the
general and not in the detail. A man that can

*♦ turn his hand to any thing," be active, indus-
trious, sober, economical, and set privations at
defiance, will, I believe, be more successful
in America than in any other country on the
globe.

In going to America, then, I would say ge-
nerally, the emigrant must expect to find — not an
economical or cleanly people j not a social or ge-
nerous people J not a people of enlarged ideas ;
not a people of liberal opinions, or towards whom
you can express your thoughts " free as air j" not
a people friendly to the advocates of liberty in
Europe; not a people who understand liberty
from investigation and from principle j not a peo-
ple who comprehend the meaning of the words
** honour and generosity." On the other hand,
he will find a country possessed of the most en-
lightened civil and political advantages ; a people
reaping the full reward of their own labours ; a
people with a small national debt, not paying
tithes, and not subjected to heavy taxation.

The classes of British society who would be
benefited by an exchange of country are, I con-
ceive, first, the extreme poor. They would not be
in .America a week, without experiencing a rapid
advance in the scale of being.

The second class would be the mechanics in
branches of first necessity, with the general exclu-
sion, however, of those acquainted with th^ Bri-
tish staple manufactures of cotton and woollen
only; but for others, whose earnings here are

under SO*, a week, or whose employment is of
that precarious nature, that they cannot reason,
ably calculate, by the exercise of prudence and
economy, on laying by any thing for what is called
a rainy day," or on making a provision for old
age— lor such persons as these, particularly if they
hm,e or anticipate the Imving a family, emigration
to America will certainly advance their pecuniary
interests, though it may not enlarge their mental
sphere of enjoyments. To these two classes, I
would further add that of the small farmer who
has a family, for whom he can barely provide the
necessaries of life, and concerning a provision for
whoni, when he is approaching the grave, he can
look forward with but little confidence or satisfac
tion ; to such a man, if he should have one hun-
dred pounds clear, that is, after paying all his ex-
penses of removal, &c. America decidedly offers
inducements very superior to those afi'orded by
this country. ^

The man of small fortune, who cares little about
politics, to whom the comforts of England are
perhaps, in some degree essential, but who wishes'
to curtaa his expenditure, would not act wisely by
emigrating to America.

The artist may succeed, but the probability is
that he will not do so. I know instances on both
sides, where, perhaps, equal talent has been pos-
sessed. The lawyer and doctor, the clerk and the
shopman, will find no opening in America.

F 2

The London linen and woollen draper, who has
a large capital, good connexions in this country,
and who would adopt the most improved English
modes of transacting retail business, would, I
think, be very successful.

A literary man will not meet with any en-
couragement, the American library being imp< rt-
ed, nnu ' lewspapers filled with extracts from
English papers, advertisements, &c.

The very superior mechanic, in a business of
which the articles have heretofore been imported,
might succeed ; and if he did so at all, it would
probably be in an eminent degree.

The merchant I do not conceive would be very
successful, his being a profession so adapted to
the native American habits, and entirely pre-
occupied.

To the capitalist, as such, I hardly know what
to say : America is the country of speculation,
and, therefore, capital might be employed with
singular advantage.

My mind continues undecided concerning our
removal. When in England I had hoped, in com-
mon with yourselves, that the old settled States
of America, which must be so much better suited
to our habits and pursuits than an uncultivated
wilderness, would have afforded sufRcient induce-
ment to emigration, particularly as our objects are
the continuance in well-established habits of in-
dustry, and not rapid fortune-making. With the

means of forming a jiulgment on this subject, I
have endeavoured, as far as lies in my power, to
sui)j)ly you in the course of my preceding re-
ports.

Should your minds be favourable to a western

country settlement, I should wish to press upon

your deliberate re-consideration the following

.ideas,: First, Is it essential to your | rosperity and

happiness that you should leave Er^irlant' ?

Second, Do the habits and character of the
American people afford you rational grounds for
desiring to become their fellow citizens?

Third, Have all of you the dispositions requisite,
in order to become cultivators of a wilderness?

Fourth, Assuming that you have those disposi-
tions, are you fitted for such an entire change of
pursuits, and can you endure the difficulties and
dangers necessarily attendant on such a situa-
tion?

If after cool, deliberate, and rational considera-
tion, with your minds free from enthusiastic ex-
pectations connected with this continent, you
answer in the affirmative, then I have little doubt
of the propriety of recommending to your atten-
tion the Illinois territory.

The following letter, in answer to one which I
addressed to Mr. Birkbeck, may assist in forming
your determination.

Princetcfwn, 29th November, 1817.
To Mr. H. FEAHON, BalUmore.

Sir,

" It would give me much pleasure to afford you
satisfactory information on the several particulars
you mention, but I am, like yourself, a stranger
in this country, and can therefore only communi-
cate to you my opinions in answer to your in-
quiries.

" To the first, as to the most eligible part of
the United States for obtaining improxcd Jarms,
or uncultivated lands for Englishmen, &c. I re-
ply, that with a view to the settlement of the
number of families you mention, it will be in vain
to look for improved farms in any part that I have
seen or heard of. Probably a single family might
be suited in almost any large district ; but you
can have no choice of cultivated lands, as those
you would prefer are the least likely to be dis-
posed of; and it is altogether unlikely you should
meet with a body of such lands for the accom-
modation of thirty or forty families : considering
too, that, by travelling a few days journey farther
west, you may have a choice of land of equal value
at one-tenth of the price, where they may settle
contiguous, or at least near to each other, I have
no hesitation in recommending you to do as I
have done, that is, to head the tide of emigration,
and provide for your friends where the lands are
yet unappropriated.

" After traversing the States of Ohio and In-

diana, looking out for a tract suited to my own
views, and those of a number of our countrymen
who have signified their intentions of following
our example, I have fixed on this spot in Illinois,
and am the better pleased with it the more I see
of it.

" As to obtaining labourers. A single settler
may get his labour done by the piece on moderate
terms, not higher than in some parts of England;
but if many families settle together, all requiring
this article, and none supplying it, they must ob-
tain it from elsewhere : let them import English
labourers, or make advantageous proposals to such
as are continually arriving at the eastern ports.

" Provisions are cheap of course. Wheat, Ss. 4id.
sterling per bushel. Beef and^ pork, 2d. per
pound. Clothing dear. Tea, per lb. 2 dollars 50
cents; coffee, 40 cents; sugar, from 22 to 50 cents.
Building moderate, either by wood or brick.
Bricks are laid by the thousand, at eight dollars
or under, including lime.

" Privations I cannot enumerate. Their amount
depends on the previous habits, and present dis-
positions, of individuals ; for myself and family,
the privations already experienced, or anticipated,
are of small account compared with the advantages.
" Horses, 60 to 100 dollars, or upwards ; cows,
10 to 20 dollars ; sows, 3 to 5 dollars.

" Society is made up of new-comers chiefly,
and, of course, must partake of the leading cha-

\h,

meters of these. With us, English farmers, I
presume, will form a large proportion.

" Roads as yet are in a state of nature.

" Purchases of land are best made at the land-
offices. Mechanics' wages 1 dollar to 1^, Car-
penters, smiths, shoemakers, brickmakers, and
bricklayers, are among the first in requisition for
anew settlement; others follow in course j tanners,
saddlers, tailors, hatters, tin-workers, &c. &c.

** We rely on good markets for produce, through
the grand navigable communication we enjoy with
the Ocean.

" Medical aid is not of difficult attainment. The
English of both sexes, and strangers in general,
are liable to some bilious attacks on their first
arrival j these complaints seem, however, simple,
and not difficult to manage if taken in time.

" The manufactures you mention may hereafter
be eligible; cotton, woollen, linen, stockings, &c.;
certainly not at present. Beer, spirits, pottery]
tanning, are objects of immediate attention.

" The minerals of our district are not much
known. We have excellent limestone ; I believe
we have coal ; wood will, however, be the cheapest
fuel for some years.

"Implements are cheap till you commence
with iron. A waggon, S5 or 40 dollars, exclusive
of tire to wheels. A strong waggon for the road,
complete, will amount to 160 dollars, or upwards.

** The best fnode of coming from England to this

part of the western country is by an eastern port,
thence to Pittsburg, and down the Ohio to Shawnee
town. Clothing, bedding, household linen, simple
medicines of the best quality, and sundry small
articles of cutlery, and light tools, are the best
things for an emigrant to bring out.

" I can hardly reply to your inquiry about the
manner of travelling; it must be suited to the
party. Horseback is the most pleasant and ex-
peditious ; on foot the cheapest ; a light waggon
is eligible in some cases 5 in others, the stage is
a necessary evil.

" Yours, &c. &e.

•• Morris Birkbeck."

MEMORANDA.

i'j'

Uti .

ll'l

Prices of Provisions, 8sc. at New York, in August, 1817,
{extracted from Mr. Fearon's Account.)

£.

/. d.

£.

t. a.

Beef, per lb.

. •

from 0

0 Si.

to 0

0 6

Mutton, per do.

. 0

0 3i

0 54-

Veal, per do.

. 0

0 5

0 6§

Ham and bacon.

per do.

. 0

0 74

0 lOi

Dried ,eef, per (

io.

. 0

0 8§

Pork, per do.

•

. 0

0 6i

0 8§

Fresli butter, per

do.

. 0

1 3

I 8

Cheese, (old) per

do.

. 0

0 9J

Do. (new) per

do.

. 0

0 6^

Do. English, per do.

. 0

0 10

1 4

Fowls, per pair

. 0

1 9§

2 9

Ducks, per do.

•

. 0

2 3

2 9

Geese, each

. 0

2 3

3 11

Turkeys, do.

. .

• 0

3 4f

5 7f

Potatoes, per bushel

. 0

3 4^

Turnips, per do.

, 0

2 2i

Eggs, per dozen

. 0

0 9

Cabbages, each

. 0

0 2t

Peas, per peck

. 0

0 OJ

0 10

Salt, per bushel

. 0

3 3

Wheat, per do.

. 0

7 10

9 0

Rye, per do.

. 0

6 4.

Barley, per do.

. 0

6 4

Oats, per do.

. 0

1 10

Best tlour, per barrel of 196

lbs. . 2

6 0

10 0

Milk, per quart

. 0

0 5i

£.

*. d.

£.

Hops, per lb.

from

1 7

to 0

Brown sugar, per lb.

0 7

I0|

Lump do. per lb.

1 1

Candles, per lb. .

0 8f

Do. mould, per do.

1 0

Loaf, best, weighing 2 lb. 2 oz.

0 7

Mustard, per lb. .

3 0

Common ale, per quart

0 54

Best do. per do.

0 7

Apples, per peck

0 10

Coffee, per lb.

1 0

Souchong tea, per do.

4 6

Hyson do. per do.

5 7

State of the thermometer at Charlestown (Carolina) in 1807,
north latitude 33° 22'.

Highest.
92" 30'

Lowest.
24°

Mean.
58" 15'

An account of the heat and rain at Frankfort, in Kentucky, in
1815. North latitude 38", west longitude 84^'.

Mean Heat.

Rain.

January .

. 250

. 2 6i

February

. 27 6

. 1 64

March

. 46 9

. 9 58

April

. 55 9

. 4 47

May

. 58 5

. 7 83

June

. 66 1

. 5 30

July

. 74 2 .

. .5 67

August .

. 70 6 .

. 7 71

September

. 60 4 .

. 2 8^

October

. 47 9 .

. 1 67

Mean Heat. Rah,

November , . 38" 9' , . 3 60

December . . 29 3 . . 1 45

Average heat throughout the year 50 11' Total rain 54 35
The same year in London . 47 6 . . 28 53

At Manchester in England, north latitude 53" 25', its mean
temperature in August, 1817, was 59° j its greatest variation in
24 hours, was 28 degrees. Rain during the month 528 inches.

The town of Baltimore, though in latitude 39", is in sever*
winters choked up with ice.

The following will exhibit the rapid increase of population ia
America.

The city of Philadelphia contained in the
Years. Houses.

1683 . . 80 .

1783
1806
1810
1818

6,000

13,000

22,000

at least

Inhabitants.

600

42,000

90,000

100,000

120,000

The city of Baltimore contained in the

Years. Inhabitants.

J 791 . . . 13,000

1810 , . . 46,000

1817 . . . 60,000

The city of Neir York contained in the

Years. Inhabitant?.

1805 . . . 60,000

1818

120,000

The state of New York, which contained, at the accession of his
present Majesty, ^rtiiy 97,000 iuhal)itants, has now upwards of
one million.

The State of Kentucky «vas first settled in 1773. In 1792', il
contained 100,000 inhabitants; and in 1810, 406,000,

The whole western country contained in 1790, 6000 inha-
bitants; and in 18 lO, 500,000.

Tlie distance from Pittsburg to the mouth of the Oliio is
1074- miies^ and as follows :

Miles.

Total Miles

From Pittsburg* to Wheeling

Creek .

96 .

To Muskingham river

. 64 .

160

Sciota river

lis .

. 278

Great Miami

. 161 . .

439

Kentucky river

■v6 . .

515

Rapids ....

77 . .

592

Wabash river

318 .

910

Cumberland river

. 95 .

. 1005

Mouth of the Ohio

09 . .

1074

The route to the Western States, by land, is from Baltimore to
Frederick's town, Hagar's town, Gessops, Greensburg, Union,
Brownsville, Washington, Wheeling, St. Clairsville, Zanesvillc,,
Lancaster, Chillicothe, Charlestown, Cincinnati, &c. &c.

Animals for breed, models of machinery f , tools in use, per-
sonal baggage, and most articles taken out by emigrants for theiF
own immediate use, arc free of duty.

The commerce of the United States has experienced a grea*
revival since 1815. During the calamitous verlod of war, the
snerchant ships were rotting, and their owners became bankrupt.
The following official statement exhibits the Exports for thr year

• According to Michaux, tlie Ohio at Pittsburg is 1200 teet wide, and 6000
«t its mouth.

f Models of machinery are not allowed to be taken out of Great Britain.

ending 30th September, 1817. (Extracted from
Account,)

Domestic products or manufactures exported, 7
amounted to ... ->i \

Foreign ditto

Mr. Fearou's

Dollari.
68,313,500

19,358,069

The Exports were

To tbe northern countries of Europe
Dominions of the Netherlands
Ditto . . Great Britain
Ditto . . France . .
Ditto . . Spain . .
Ditto . . Portugal . .
All other dominions . . .

From New Hampshire
Vermont
Massachusetts
Rhode Island
Connecticut
New York .
New Jersey .
Pennsylvania
Delaware
Maryland
Dist.ofCoIumb
Virginia . .
North Carolina
South ditto
Georgia . .
Ohio . . .
Louisiana
Michigan territory
Mississippi ditto

Domestic.
170,599
913,201
5,908,416
577,911
574.,290
13,660,733
5,84-9
5,538,003
38,771
5,887,884.
1,689,103
5,5 fj 1,23 8
955,211
9,914.,1.43
8,530,831
7,749
8,241,254
64,228
43,887

Total 87,671,569

Domestic.
3,828,563
3,397,775
41,431,168
9,717,423
4,530,156
1,501,237
3,907,178

Foreign.
2,790,408
2,387,5 53
2,037,074
2,717,395
3,893,780
333,586
5,198,283

68,313,500 19,358,069

Foreign.
26,825

6,019,581

372,556

29,849

5,046,700

3,197,589

6,083

3,01-6,046

79,556

60,204

1,369

428,270

259,883

783,558

Total.
197,424
913,201
11,927,997
950,467
604,139
18,707,433
5,849
8,735,592
44,85 1.
8,933,930
1,768,658
5,621,442
956,580
10,372,613
8,790,714
7,749
9,024,812
64,228
43,887

08,313,500 19,358,069 87,671,956

Of these Exports tijerc were
Derived from the Sea

the Forest
. . Agriculture
Manufactures
Uncertain

1,67 1, ono

6,48l.,000

57,222,000

2,202,000

73-l.,000

The/our exported from ist October, 1816, to 30th

September, 1817, amounted to
Sea Island cotton ,

Other cotton . .
Tobacco . . ,
Mice

Fish ...

Titnber and lumber of all descriptions
Pot and Pearl Ashes

Dollars.

17,751,376
3,240,752

19,386,862
9,230,020
2,378,880
1,323,050
3,38l,34y
1,907,243

These form the principal exports of domestic product : the
iron, in all shapes, exported, amounted to 138,579 dollars.
Amongst the most curious exports may be VAXxVedL. maple sugar,
which amounted to 4,374 dollars. The gunpowder exported
amounted to 356,522 dollars.

General Instructions for such Emigrants as embark for America,
{chiefly selected from a small Pamphlet, published by the
Emigrant Society, at New York.)

By the laws of England, no British subject who has been em-
ployed in the manufacturing of wool, cotton, iron, steel, brass,
or any other metal; of clocks, watches, &c. j or who may come
under the general denomination of an artificer or manufacturer,
can leave his own, for the purpose of residing in a foreign country
out of the dominion of his Britannic Majesty j it is therefore
necessary for those who may intend to embark for America to
procure a certificate * signed by the minister of the church and

• For fa.'ra of certiricate, vide page 82.

,1 f

i m

churchwarden, and conntcrsigned by a resident magistrate, stating
that the person about to emigrate is not, nor has been, employed
in any of the prohibited trades or manufactures; or the oath of
the party to this effect, certified by a respectable housekeeper at
the port the vessel sails from, will suffice. This certificate should
be taken to the custom-house of the port the emigrant intends to
embark from, and he is advised not to pay any money for his
passage until every thing has been settled at the custom-house.

Vessels are constantly sailing for America from London,
Bristol, and Glasgow ,' but the greatest number go from Liver-
pool, where ships are always taking freight for every port in the
United States ; except that, during the spring months, on ac-
count of the heat of the approaching season, few sail for Charles-
town, or the more southern ports.

The cabin passenger will have to pay from thirty-five to forty-
five guineas for his passage; and those in the steerage, from
seven to ten pounds ; less sums are occasionally taken. The
cabin passengers at these prices are supplied by the captain with
provisions for the voyage, including porter, spirits, and even
wine. The steerage passenger is only entitled to fresh water,
and the use of the fire for cooking : both sorts of passengers must
provide a bed and bedding,, which can be had in all sea-ports.
The middle of the vessel is the best place to choose a birth in,
the ship's motion being less felt there. Flannel waistcoats and
drawers should be provided, also a quantity of medicines, such
as rhubarb, salts, cream of tartar, and magnesia, to be used upon
entering a warmer climate. Delicate persons are recommended
to provide themselves with a little preserved fruit, eggs, &c. ; the
eggs must be kept in bran, and frequently turned. A few days'
supply of cold meat, such as veal, fowls, &c. is very necessary in
case of sickness. Oatmeal and treacle are much better for chil-
dren than salt meat.

The steerage passengers will likewise have to lay in a stock of
provisions for the voyage, which may be calculated at two months.
The better way for men emigrants is to contract to be supplied
with ship's provisions in the same manner as the seamen. For
women and children a few extras may be carried, of which tea

and sugar are the principal article. Trunks are preferable to
heavy boxes for packing clothes, &c.

S J'"" ' V rr"' ^" '""^' '" America, and fixed „pon the
State m wh.ch he intends to settle, he should report hirif al
he office of one of the Courts of Record, and there e'nter h in l'
but -place, age, and prior allegiance , a certificate of thi e„" v
must be kept and produced at the time of applying for a I
to citi/pnahin ..,i.:„i J • . "FF'ying lor admissiou

to o,t Mnship, »l„cl, .d,„„s,on c»„„„t be obtained until five year,
after the date „f this certificate. Three year, before an ZIZ
be n„,„ral.e., he nns, appear before one of the Court" "r"
cord, and declare on oath, that it i, in good faith hi, i„,e„l ^
hecone a c,,.en of the United States, and ,„ renounce a, ™i
g.ance and n elity to any sovereign, prince, or potent tlht
ver, par„c„larly ,o that, whereof he nay a. 'ha. tilet .
c ,. n orsa^ec. Thus .„ migrant „„s, reside six years in
the Unued States before he can vote for a representative and
seven years for a senator. ' "

Emigrants from Europe usually arrive here during summer,
and everything considered, it Is best they should; for, i„ ^
middle and eastern states, the „i„,er is |„„g, f„e, very de. and
employment comparatively scarce a. that sion. In lint ','
W.1I expend more, and earn less. Bn. if arriving a, this i J
hear more upon their pocket, the heats of the summer are un
doubtedly more trying to their health. In the middle st.,,^
uamely, ^w York, NeWersey, Pennsylvania, and M ,a 'd a
uorthern European usually finds the climate intensely lot frL
about the middle of June till towards the Is. of October The

96 ,„ the m,ddle of the day; .his, to a stranger „1,„ works in
the open a,r, exposed to .he burning sun, is cerlainlv dangerou !
and requires some precau.ions on his par..

Firs, of all, he should regulate his die., and be .emperate in
tl.c ,uan.,.y of his food. The American labourer, J SZ
mechanic, who has a better and more plentifnl table than uy
o. ler man ■„ the world of his class, is, for the most, a small
eater; and we recommend to you his example. The European
of the same condmon, who receives meat, or fish and coffee, a.

K ik^

S'2

breakfast ; meat at dinner i und meat or fish, and tea, at lupper }
an abundance of animal food to which he was unaccustomed— in-
sensibly falls into a state of too great repletion, which exposes
him to the worst kind of fever during the heats of summer and
autumn. He should, therefore, be quite as abstemious in ihe
quantity of food as of strong drink; and, in addition to this me-
thod of preventing sickness, he should take a dose of active
physic, every now and then, especially in the hotter months of
July and August. By this prudent course an ardent cliumte will
have no terrors ; and, after some residence here, he may preserve
his health by regimen and exercise alone.

The labourer, or mechanic, should put off his ordinary clothes,
and wear next his skin a loose flannel shirt, while he works : it
should be taken off again when he has done.

The stranger, as well as native, must be particularly careful
not to drink cold water after being heated by exposure to the sun,
or exercise. Sudden and severe pain at the stomach, and oven
death, are frequently the consequence of such imprudeuce.

' ?

Form of the Certificate necessary to be obtained by the Emigrant^
before he can leave Great Britain for America.

We whose names are hereunto subscribed, inhabitants of

in the county of ^o hereby certify,

that the bearer A. 13. who has hereunto first subscribed his
name, is years of age feet inches high, has eyes,
hair, complexion, and is by trade iu

which business he has been employed all his life. As wit-
ness our hands this day of in the year one
thousand eight hundred and

C. D. Minister.

E. F. Churchwarden.

A. B.

Witness Y. Z.

Lancashire to wit. ]•

count .aketh oath an'd saitl that he was p^L^t, Id
aw he several persons whoso „aa,es are subscrib;d at
the foot of the Certificate hereunto annexed, severally
B-gn and subscribe the san,e in their own proper hand
-.ng and that the na.e Y. Z. subscribeS to'this sa^
Certificate, as a witness to the said si^^natures. is of the
proper hand-writing of this deponent.

Y. Z.

Sworn before me, one of His Majesty's ?

Justices of the Peace for the said county. 3 ^* "" Magistrate.

I. the said justice, do hereby certify C. D. is a minister and
E. F. a churcliwarden of "msier, and

Given under my hand this day of i„ the year

G. H, Magistrate,

«2

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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Photographic

Sciences

CoiporBtion

<'*

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, NY. 14580

(716)872-4503

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CANADA

CANADA .8 separated on tbe soythfrom the
United States of America by the boundary line
passing through the centre of Lakes Ontario and
fine; New Brunswick and the ocean are on thp
east, and en the western and northern sides vast
torests, inhabited by various tribes of Indians
whose chief employment is that ofprocuring skjn^
tor the trading Companies.

Canada is divided into two parts, called the
Upper and Lower Provinces : the principal towns
ot the latter are Quebec, Montreal, and Trois Ri-
vieres; and of the former Kingston. York, Queens-
town, and Niagara.

The only river of any consequence is the St
Laurence, which runs chiefly through the Lower
Province : the lakes are numerous, but the most
extensive are in Upper Canada; Lake Superior
beii^ four hundred miles in length, and fifteen
hundred miles in circumference.

"Hie climate of Lower Canada is considered very
salubrious, though subject to violent extremes
ot heat and cold, the thermometer is sometimes
up to 103» Fahrenheit in the summer.'and in

•

winter 36" below zero : the average of summer
heat is 7.5° to 80°, and the mean cold in winter 0°.
In October, November, and December, it is very
cold, with continual falls of rain, sleet, and snow;
in January, :^ebruary, and March, a clear hard
frost : during this weather, the major part of the
St. Laurence is frozen over, so as to be crossed
by the inhabitants; the river is seldom clear of
ice till the end of April : from December till the
end of March, people travel over the snow i*i
sleighs. The progress of vegetation, as soon as
the winter is over, is extremely rapid. May and
June are often wet, sortietimes extremely so ; in
May the thermometer changes from 75° to 20° in
-twenty.four hours. In 1807, the thermometer
was as follows :

Lowest. Highest
May 20» 7B»
June 50 90
July 55 9G
August 68 90
September 46 78

Continual rain.

Rain at first, then dry and warm.

Dry and sultry.

Ditto.

Fine mild treather.

The spring, summer, and autumn of Canada are
all comprised in these five months; the rest of the
year is winter. October is sometimes agreeable,
though cold : November and April are two most
disagreeable months; in the one, the snow is fall-
ing; in the other, it is going away; both of them
confine the people to their houses, and rehder
travelling not only uncomfortable but ddng^rous-

even the summer months can hardly be enjoyed
owzng to the immense swarms of musquito^s^nd
other fl,es, which are ve:y troublesome, when
bitten, the part should be rubbed with vinegar or
emon. I„ the summer ofl808. the thermometer
twice rose m the shade to 103- winter. i„.

hTL ul^ ""'^ '''"''• " ^'"'^'^y P'^ferred

tT\7 I ."" "^"'' commences than all
thoughts about business are laid aside, and every

one d-otes himself to pleasure. The inhabitants
meet m convivial parties at each other's houses.

z T V'l ""' •""'•=' '^^'■"''^' -d-p j;:

•ng. &e. The CanaHians always take advantage
of this season to visit their friends who live at a
distance : by means of their carioles or sledges
they transport themselves over the snow fL'
P^ace to place, in the most agreeable manner, and
with a degree of swiftness that appears almo t in-

«ghty miles a day-^o light is the draught of the!e
vehicles, and so favourable is the snow to the fe t
of the horse : these carioles are made to carry two
persons, and a driver who sits in front

In the lower province, nine-tenths of the in-
habitants are descendants of the French, and the
remainder British and Americans. The inhabit-
ants of Upper Canada are entirely British and
American emigrants; the former are almost ex-
clusively Scotch and Irish. The population of this
province, m 1808, was considered, according to

Mr. Lambert, to be about sixty thousand, that of
the lower province as follows :

Buihels of
Whhe in- Acres in grain kowu

Date, habitaiiti* cultivation, yearly. Horaef.

ITeA 7G,'27S 764,604 19»,757 13,757

1785 113,()|'i 1,569,818 383,349 30,096

1(108 200,000 3,760,000 920,000 79,000

Cattle. Sheep. Swino.

50,3^9 27,064 28,976

98,591 84,666 70,466

236,000 286,000 « 1 2,000

The number of domiciliated Indians in Canada,
who were collected into villages, amounted in
1758 to sixteen thousand ; in 1765, they had de-
creased to seven thousand four hundred ; and in
1808, scarcely exceeded two thousand.

Horses, cows, oxen, sheep, &c. are all small ;
the sheep have but little fleece, and that coarse ;
swine are very numerous, but the breed bad j the
poultry is good.

Bears, wolves, buffaloes, elks, &c. abound,
but seldom come near the old settlements. Birds
and fish are in great abundance. Snakes are ex-
tremely numerous in the upper province, particu-
larly rattle-snakes.

There are no game laws.

Quebec is the principal city in Canada : it is
situated upon a very high point of land on the
north west side of the river St. Laurence, near
four hundred miles from its mouth, and in north
latitude 46° 55': the wide part of the river, imme-
diately below the town, is called the basin, and is
sufficiently deep and spacious to admit upwards
of one hundred sail of the line. In 1783 there

were about eight thousand, and in I797 about
twelve thousand inhabitants: the society is agree-
able, and very extensive for a place of its size,
owing to its being the capital of the lower province,
and therefore the residence of the governor, civil
and military officers, &c. : four newspapers are
published here. *

The town of Trois Rivieres is about ninety miles
above Quebec, and contained, in 1809, two hun-
dred and fifty houses, and fifteen hundred inha-
bitants.

The town of Montreal is likewise on the St.
Laurence, and near one hundred and eighty miles
above Quebec ; it is situated in an island, twenty-
eight miles in length and ten in breadth ; the soil
is very luxuriant, and in some parts much culti-
vated and thickly inhabited.

The streets of the town are extremely narrow:
there are six churches, two protestant and four
Roman catholic. The river here is upwards of
two miles broad, with depth of water sufficient for
vessels of three hundred tons burthen; but the
current is so extremely rapid as to render naviga-
tion extraordinarily tedious, and large vessels are
sometimes as long in going from Quebec to Mont-
real as they are across the Atlantic.

In 1808, the inhabitants in the town amounted
to about twelve thousand: there are two news-
papers published. Land in the neighbourhood is
worth from twenty to thirty dollars per acre.

The northern parts of Lower Canada are too

' barren to be cultivated with any success, and even
in the neighbourhood of Quebec the crops of
grain seldom exceed twelve bushels to the acre.
The settlements of this province are principally
upon the banks of the St. Lauvence, the soil of
which gradually improves as you ascend the river,
and in the vicinity of Montreal, latitude 45" 30,
the crops of wheat are tolerably productive : there
are also some good orchards in this part, the pro-
prietors of which generally send their produce
to Quebec, where fruit trees are extremely rare.
The wheat is sown early in May, and is generally
ripe by the end of August. Small quantities of
maize are also sown. Tobacco is grown in some
parts, but to no great extent. The grass land is
generally good, even as low as Quebec. Good
arable land, in the best situations, sells for five
pounds per acre, indifferent land for four or five
dollars, wood land for two dollars, but in the back
townships it may be purchased at the sheriff's
sales for less than sixpence an acre.

From Montreal the soil gradually improves all
through Upper Canada, where it as much sur-
passes that of the lower province in fertility as
Montreal does Quebec.

Timber is abundant throughout Canada, and
the species nearly similar to those of the United
States of America: the sugar maple tree, if any
thing, is more numerous than in the States, and is
found in almost every part of the country; some-
times large tracts of land are entirely covered

with tliis valuable tree. There are two specie, , the
best will yield about a pound of sugar from three
gallon, ol sap : the most approved method of eet-
tmg the sap is by piercing a hole with an auger in
the side of the tree of about an inch diameter, and
two or three in depth, obliquely upwards; the
common mode is by cutting a large gash in the
tree with an axe; in each case a small spout is
fixed at the bottom of the wound, and a vessel
placed underneath to receive the liquor as it Mis.
A maple tree, of the diameter of twenty inches,
wdl commonly yield sufficient sap for making five
pounds of sugar each year, and instances have
been known of trees yielding nearly this quantity
for thirty years; such as are carefully pierced by
the auger last longer than those which have been
gashed and mangled by the axe. The season for
tapping IS at the commencement of spring, when
the sap begins to rise. The sap is boiled until it
comes to a consistency.

Pot and pearl ash have now become of ..reat
importance in Europe, and are used for a varietv
of purposes, particularly in bleaching, soap manu-
facture, dyeing. &c. and the clearing of land thus
becomes a profitable concern. The process of
making potash is as follows: the trees are cut
down and burnt, the ashes are mixed with lime,
and put into several large vats which stand in
rows on a platform; water is then poured into
them, and after filtering through the lime and
ashes It dribbles out of a spicket into a long

trough placed in front of the vat for that purpose.
The water thus drained becomes a strong lye of a
dark brcvn colour, though it gives the ;buckets
which are continually dipped into it a yellowish
tinge ; the lye is then put into large iron boilers,
or as they are generally called, potash kettles,
fires are made underneath, and the lye is kept
boiling for many hours, till it approach a fine
claret colour, after which it is taken out, lefl to
cool, and becomes a solid body like grey stone,
and is called potash. The manufacture of pearl-
ashes differs but little from the other, except
that they are done with more care, and after-
wards calcined in an oven. The harder and
better woods afford the most alkali.

1000 lbs. of Maple ashes will make 110 lbs. of potash.
1000 Oak . . Ill

1000 Elm . . 166

1000 Hickory . J80

1000 Beech . .219

Sun-flowers are numerous, but the Canadians
make no use of them. At the Moravian settle-
ments in the United States a considerable quantity
of oil is extracted from these plants : the seed
must be sown in a good soil, in a small hole three
feet apart ; when the plant is a yard high, it must
be hilled round with mould : an acre will produce
about 40 or 50 bushels of seed, which yield as
many gallons of oil, when properly pressed.

The imports of Canada consist of all the various

articles which a young country that t?oes not ma-
nufacture much for its own use can be supposed
to stand in need of, such as earthenware, hard-
ware, household furniture, woollen and linen cloths,
haberdashery, hosiery, paper, stationery, leather,
groceries, wine, spirits. West Indian produce,
cordage of every description, cutlery, &C. and
m the year 1808 amounted to 610,000/.

The exports consist chiefly of furs, pot and
pearl ash, wheat, flour, timber, &c. and in 1808
amounted to 1.156,000/., seven-eighths of which
were by the way of Quebec. There is a con-
siderable trade also carried on between Upper
Canada and the United States across Lake Cham-
plain *. Great quantities of wheat have at various
times been exported to Great Britain.

In 1796 ,802 ,308

3106 bushels. 1,010,033 bushels. 186,708 bushel*.

The town of Quebec contains two or three
breweries ; mild ale sells for 60.. and table beer
for 20.. per hogshead: there is a hop plantation
m the neighbourhood, but great quantities are im-
ported from England and America, and generally
fetch 1*. 6d. per lb. ^

Wine and spirits are very dear.

Loaf sugar, per lb.
Moist do.
Tea . .

Best Hvson

from 0

d.
9
4
0
0

». d\f
to 0 10
0 5
10 0
14 0

* This trade is principally contraband. Such articles as pav
a heavy .mport duty in the United States are procured by the

■ nlCoffce and chocolate are chiefly drank by the
French inhabitants, and sell for about 2.v. per lb.,
but not very good.

Engliflh cbeeie, per lb.
American do.

«. d. t. (f.

front 2 0 to 2 0
0 0 0 9

Salt is imported from England, and is sold
retail at about 3*. 6d. per bushel, but is some-
times very scarce : the price of other articles at
Quebec was as follows in January 1807, in sterling.

•

Beef, per lb, .

. from 0

to 0

Matton . .

Veal .

Pork

Lard . . ,

Butter . . .

Tallow

Cabbages, each

Apples, per barrel .

Flour, per cwt.

Turkies, per couple

TSwh, ditto

i i *

Geese, ditto

d,!. 2

Partridges, ditto

Pigeons, per dozen

•M 1

Hares, each

Potatoes, per bushel

Oatslper minot (rather more th

anabush.)2

Hay, per bundle of 17 lbs.

Straw, do.

merdhants of Upper Canada via Quebec, where there is either
none or very little duty : they are then easily smuggled across the
Lakes into the American territory.

Tobacco is cultivated, in u Minal! way, by al-
most every farmer, but large quantities' are im-
ported from Great Britain and America (in I8O7,
.'MO.GlOlb.s.), and it generally nelh at the follow-
ing prices : leaf tobacco, from 9d, to KW. per lb. j
jiianufactured ditto, from Is, Od. to 2s.

House rent, European goods, and servants'
wages, are extremely high. Settlers should not
take out servants with them, as they are generally
enticed away.

The houses of the French Canadians, even to
this day, are merely composed of logs and clay,
seldom exceeding one story, and containing from
two to four rooms, with the chimney in the centre;
the building, both inside and out, is washed with
lime distilled in water, which they say preserves
the wood better than paint.

The manners of the country people are easy and
polite, and they are extremely hospitable.

The number of inhabitants of the lower pro-
vince who speak English does not amount to one-'
fifth, including British ; although each principal
town is obliged, by act of parliament, to have
one English school. . .;* ., r „ ' ' »

The civil government of Lower Canada consists
of a governor, lieutenant-governor, an executive
and legislative council, and house of assembly.
The executive council is appointed by the kingj
the legislative council and house of assembly form
the provincial parliament. The governor repre-
sents the king, and has the ^ame power of re-

'Hi

nmng or assenting to the clifTerent bills. The legis-
lative council consists of 15 members, appointed by
the governor for life j they must be twenty-one
years of age, and either natives or naturalized.

The house of assembly consists of fifty mem-
bers, who are chosen by those possessing a free-
hold of the yearly value of forty shillings ; of
houses in a town of the annual value of five
pounds ; or any .one who has resided in a town
one twelvemonth, and paid ten poundp per annum
for his house.

The assembly must be dissolved every four years,
and the governor is compelled to call a meeting
once at least in each vear.

The legislative council of Upper Canada con-
sists of seven members, and the House of Assem-
bly of sixteen.

AH religions are tolerated, in the fullest extent
of the word; but the majority of the Lower Cana-
dians are Roman Catholics.

The inhabitants of Lower Canada pay no direct
taxes, except for the repairs of the roads, &c. In '
Upper Canada, lands, houses, cattle, &c. are va-
lued and taxed at the rati of one penny in the
pound ; wood lands are valued at one shilling,
and cultivated land at fifty shillings per acre : ^a
house with only one chimney pays no tax ; but
with two, it is charged at the rate of forty pounds
per annum.

Iron, copper, and lead, are found in Lower Ca-
nada. The fruit is neither remarkable for srood-

Oranges and IcZns 1 ^""" ^ '" ^»«'»d.

-" for one or two suZ^ZXZf: ""T"^
sixpence upwards r!„„ u ' "^ '^■"''"« ^om
'on. are plSi b!t Tr irV'""^ ^'"' -"
and filberts, scarce. ' ''"""'' *'^'"'t».

Vegetables thrive well Br„»^ • j
bad; the white loaf of 4 Ih ."*""■"""* ^^''^
6'bs. sell at the sal pi'- T *'^''™^ °^
Janua^y. ,80S. was abou^te.p t" xl""'"' '"
price of wheat at the same nl ""^"^^

1807, was seven shmfnllZ ' '" ^^P^^^''^'-
Cattle, poultrv &'^ """^ ™P^"=« P«r bushel.
con>.ne„;eLnZf t^;,:; .f r^'^ ^^^^ at the

toiastti„.pHng;::i:rsr'"^'

buried in the snow anH A, . * *"®^ »^e

food or sale: the ^i^f^Pj;- -ted for

Pbed during this season than' " ^er ' Td"^"
of course cheaper. ^ ' ^"^ ^^e

The river St. Lawrence is near ninof -i
wide at its moiifh .r.A • "^"®*>' "^i^es

fasfararsirabrs^i'tr"

Montrea,, ,80 miles, it i. ,.4"™ ttet

.fl

of 3 or 400 tons burthen ; from Montreal you are
obliged to ascend the river in batteaux (flat-bot-
tomed boats) ; the numerous rapids in this part
render navigation both tedious and dangerous : at
the distance of about 200 miles from Montreal
you enter that vast chain of lakes from which the
St. Lawrence issues *.

The scenery (says Weld) along various parts
of the river is very fine; what particularly attracts
the attention, however, in going down this river,
is the beautiful disposition of the towns and vil-
lages on its banks. Nearly all the settlements in
Lower Canada are situated close upon the borders
of the rivers, and from this circumstance the
scenery along the St. Lawrence differs materially
from that along the rivers in the United States.

The banks of the Hudson river, which are more
cultivated than those of any of the other large
rivers there, are wild and desolate in comparison
with those of the St. Lawrence. For several leagues
below the town of Montreal, the houses stand so
dose together, that it appears as if it were but
one village which extended the whole way. All
the houses have a remarkably neat appearance at
a distance ; and in each village, though it be ever
so small, there is a church : it is pleasing beyond
description to behold one of these villages open-

• There are now steam-boats between Quebec and Montreal,
and the passage money, including board, is 1 0 dollars. There is
no doubt these boats will also be shortly employed on the Lakes.

the river, and Sp tl fT/c'h" ''r^'^"^'^
through the grovesCuh wh Lh t ' 'P"*'"^
before the ravs „f 'r ^^ "* *'"='''«=k'i.

scarcely aL p^^t of h ' ""^ ™"- ^here i

to two miles and in t"" '' '""^^^ "^ » ""e

iakeupwSoffi . ""''*"' '■°™'' » '''"'• o^a

iniei:rer;!svL:r^--^*

^ew^rre:[,?^L7a;r '''^r '-^-

Of the .menace! :Sl?.ri°:^^^-
plain .nto the St. Lawrence: it cZj^t ?
one and two hundred houses and T^ , ''^^"
between Montreal and nK.*""^^ town

■'^ the predomi^ltnJC^ tthtr"
-sist prineipall, of , JalL f^J htuS
otates who innir ^«^ . ^ iJnited

these different biiJkv ^ninU. /u^„- 7^ ^ ^ '^

100

river Sorelle is deep at the mouth, and affords
excellent shelter for ships from the ice, at the
breaking up of winter: it is not navigable far
beyond the town, even in boats, on account of the

rapids.

The climate of Upper Canada is more mild
than that of the lower province, though much
colder than in England, and is generally preferred
by the emigrant ; it is by some called the garden
of America, subjected neither to the long winters
of Lower Canada nor the scorching summers of
the more southern part of the United States : the
climate, however, upon the whole, is not near so
healthy as that of the lower province ; intermit-
tent fevers and agues being extremely prevalent.

The English laws entirely prevail here, and the
manners, customs, and amusements, are entirely
English.

The distance by water from Quebec

to Montreal, is about

Kingston, at the entrance of Lake Ontario
Niagara, entrance of Lake Erie
Fort Erie . . . -

Detroit . • • • '

184 miles.

383

525

560

790

The length of time required to ascend the river
from Montreal to Kingston is commonly found
to be about seven days : if the wind should be
strong, and very favourable, the passage may be
performed in a less time ; but should it, on the
contrary, be adverse, and blow very strong, the

101

passage will be protracted somewhat longer; an
adverse or favourable wind, however, seldom
makes a difference of more than three days in the
length of the passage upwards, as in each case it
IS necessary to work the balteaux along by means
of poles for the greater part of the way. The
passage downwards is performed in two or three
days, according to the wind. The current is so
strong, that a contrary wind seldom lengthens the
passage in that direction more than a day. These
rapids are of course a great drawback upon the
commerce of the upper province, notwithstanding
which It IS considerable; for besides the trade car!
ried on across the lake with the United States,
the following articles were exported by way of
Montreal, between the 27th April and the 28th
November I8O7, the only period in which the
nver ^t. Lawrence was navigable during that
year: °

Flour, barrels

Wheat, bushels

Pot Ash, barrels

Pork, do.

Purs, packs

19,893

1,460

127

besides 6300 cords of fire-wood, and more than
one million feet of timber.

Kingston is situated at the mouth of a deep
bay, at thf irorth-eastern extremity of Lake On-
tario : it contains (says Weld) a fort and bar-
racks, an English episcopalian ohurch, and about

102

I'i

100 houses ; the most of which last were built,
and are now inhabited, by persons who emigrated
from the United States after the American war.
Some few of the houses are built of stone, but by
far the greater part of wood.

Kingston is a place of considerable trade, and
it is consequently increasing most rapidly in size.
All the goods brought up the St. Lawrence for
the support of the upper country are here de-
posited in stores, preparatory to their being
shipped on board vessels suitable to the naviga-
tion of the Lakes ; and the furs from the various
posts on the nearer Lakes are here likewise col-
lected together, in order to be laden on Ijoard
batteaux, and sent down the St, Lawrence. Some
furs are brought in immediately to the towii by
the Indians, who hunt in the neighbouring country,
and along the upper part of the St. Lawrence, but
the quantity is not great. The principal mer-
chants resident at Kingston are partners of old
established houses at Montreal and Quebec. A
stranger, especially if a British subject, is sure to
meet with a most hospitable and friendly recep-
tion from them, as he passes through the place.

During the autumn, the inhabitants of Kingston
suffer very much from intermittent fevers, owing
to the town being situated on a low spot of
ground contiguous to an extensive morass.

Lake Ontario, and all the rivers which fall into
it, abound with excellent salmon, and many dif-
ferent kinds of sea-fish, which come up the river

)Q3

St. Lawrence ; it also abounds with a great variety
of fresh water fisli. '•■-vdnety

The town of Nugaba (now called Newark) was

removed to York; it contained, in 1796, about 70
houses, but IS rapidly increasing in size, owing to
the trade wzth the United States: it is situated
on the banks of a river of the same name, about
Wly yards from the water's edge : it commands a
fine view of the lake and distant shores, and its
situation IS in every respect pleasing to the eye.
From Its standing on a spot of ground so much
elevated above the level of the water, one would
imagine that it must also be remarkably healthy,
but It IS in fact lamentably the reverse, and the
people are dreadfully afflicted with the ague.

Not only the town of Niagara and its vicinity
(says Weld) are unhealthy places, but almost
every part of Upper Canada, and the territory of
the States bordering upon the lakes, are likewise
unhealthy. The sickly season commences about
the middle of July, and terminates about the end
ot September, as soon as the nights become cold-
intermittent fevers are the most common disor-
ders ; but m some parts of the country the inha-
bitants suffer from continual fevers, of which there
are different kinds peculiar to certain districts, of
which many die annually.

The quantity of furs collected at Niagara is
considerable, and the neighbourhood bein- no.

o IT -

104

111

pulous, it is a place of no small trade. The falls of
Niagara are about 18 miles from the town. On
the road to these falls, about midway, is situated
Queenstown, which is little more than a village,
and extremely unhealthy.

The banks of the Niagara river *, between Fort
Chippeway and Fort Erie, a distance of about 15
miles, are very low ; for the first few miles from
Chippeway, there are scarcely (says Weld) any
houses to be seen, but about half way between
that place and Fort Erie, they are thickly scat-
tered along the banks of the river. The houses
in this neighbourhood were remarkably well built,
and appeared to be kept in a state of great neat-
ness. The lands adjoining them are rich, and
were well cultivated. The crops of Indian corn
were still standing here, which had a most luxu-
riant aspect ; in many of the fields, there did not
appear to be a stem less than eight feet in height.
Between the rows they sow gourds, squashes, and
m^elons, of which last, every sort attain to a state
of great perfection in the open air, throughout
the inhabited part of the two provinces. Peaches
in this part of the country likewise come to per-
fection in the open airj but in Lower Canada
the summers are too short to permit them to ripen
sufficiently. The winters here are very severe
while they last, but the snow seldom lies longer

* This river connects the two lakes of Erie and Ontario, and
is 36 miles iu lengthy but only navigable for batteaux either
above or below the falls.

105

than three months on the ground. The summers
are intensely hot, Fahrenheit's thermometer often
rising to 96°, and sometimes above 100**.

A plant called ginseng was formerly plentiful
all over Canada, and exported in great quantities ;
but the high price given by the Chinese tempted
the Canadians to gather the root before the pro-
per time, and it is now nearly extinct.

Copper, in the more remote parts of Upper Ca-
nada, is found in much greater abundance than
iron, and as it may be extracted from the earth
with considerably less trouble than any of the iron
ore that has yet been discovered, there is reason
to imagine it will at some future period become
much in use. f

From Captain HalPs Travels, during the years
1816 and I8I7, are extracted the following parti-
culars :

From Quebec to Montreal may be called one
long village ; on either shore a stripe of land, sel-
dom exceeding a mile in breadth, bounded by
aboriginal forests, and thickly studded with low-
browed farm-houses, white-washed from top to
bottom, to which a long barn and stables are at-
tached, and commonly a neat plot of garden
ground, represents all that is inhabited of Lower
Canada.

The Canadian summer is hot in proportion to
the severity of the winter, which enables the cul-
tivator to raise Indian corn, water melons, gourds,

106

capsicums, and such vegetables as require a short
and intense heat : 80° and 82° of Fahrenheit in
the shade are the average temperatures at Quebec
during July and August.

The winter at Montreal is accounted two montlis
shorter than at Quebec *.

After quitting the neighbourhood of Montreal,
we see little of the French Canadian; he is suc-
ceeded by settlers of a different character, and far
more industrious. The face of the country is
flat ; and, as in Lower Canada, the settlements
have not spread far from the river and main road,
which follows its banks; there is, however, an
evident difference between the two provinces as
to the mode of settling : the system of farming is
here altogether English, or American ; the low,
deep-roofed Canadian dwelling gives place to the
English farm-house ; instead of churches, we have
taverns, and a half sulky nod for a French bow :
two Canadian postillions never meet without
touching their hats ; when the American or En-
glishman nods, it is like the growling of a mastiff,
who has not leisure enough to turn and quarrel
with you.

The country in the neighbourhood of Kingston
is generally barren.

Adolphus town is about 32 miles from Kings-
ton, and pleasantly situated on the neck of a bay ;

* Weld says, there is hardly one month's difference.

107

its farms are thriving, and cultivation is pushing
rapidly through the forests, round the numerous
streams and bays, which water every part of the
adjacent country.

Two men can make a ton of pot-ash in a month,
and its average value may be reckoned at 150
dollars.

* •

QuEENSTowN is built on the river's edge (the
Niagara), at the foot of the heights. On the right,
there is an unbroken succession of luxuriant or-
chards, corn-fields and farm-houses — a rare and
interesting sight in Canada. In the lower pro-
vince the returns of corn seldom exceed six or
seven for one.

York is situated on the northern side of Lake
Ontario, about 100 miles from Kingston, and be-
ing the seat of government for the upper pro-
vince, is a place of considerable importance in the
eyes of the inhabitants ; to a stranger, however,
it presents little more than about 100 wooden
houses, most of them well built, and one, or
perhaps two, of brick : the thread of settlements
along the road to this town is slender, and fre-
quently interrupted by long tracts of hemlock-
swamp, and pine-barren.

along i\
from tl
River,
and lie;
tude.
countrj
colony ;
the oce

Its 1(
CapeP
is 580
Koussie
giving i

Its b
the mo
315 mi
to Pletl
breadth
128,15C

A ve
is unfit
ployed
plains,

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

THE colony of the Cape of Good Hope stretches
along the whole of the southern extremity of Africa,
from the Cape of that name to the Great Fish
River, or from 17" 36' to 28° 17' east longitude,
and lies between 29° 55' and 34° I7' south lati-
tude. The Koussie River, and the Bosjesmans*
country, form the northern boundary of the
colony ; on the west and south it is bounded by
the ocean, and on the east by Caffreland.

Its length from west to east, that is, from the
Cape Peninsula to the mouth of the Fish River,
is 580 miles ; and from the mouth of the River
Koussie to the Snowy Mountains, 520 miles;
giving a mean length of about 550 miles.

Its breadth from south to north, that is, from
the mouth of the Koussie to the Cape point, is
315 miles ; and from the Nieuwveld mountains
to Plettenberg*s Bay, 160 miles ; giving a mean
breadth of 223 miles, and including an area of
128,150 square miles.

A very great portion, however, of this territory
is unfit for any sort of culture, or even to be em-
ployed as pasture for the support of cattle. Level
plains, consisting of a hard impenetrable surface

, 110 >

of clay, thinly sprinkled over with crystalized
sand, condemned to perpetual drought, and pro-
ducing only a few straggling tufts of acrid, saline,
and succulent plants ; and chains of vast moun-
tains, that are either totally naked, or clothed in
part with grasses, or such plants as are noxious
to animal life, compose at least one half of the
colony of the Cape.

If we were to judge by appearance only (says
Barrow) we should pronounce the soil extremely
poor. Seven-tenths of it, for the greatest part,
and some of it all the year round, are completely
destitute of verdure ; and the patches of cultivated
ground contiguous to the springs of water, like
oases in the sandj^ deserts, may be considered as
so many verdant islands in the midst of a bound-
less waste : the scarcity of water is in fact the grand
obstacle to an extended cultivation ; wherever a
streamlet occurs, a house is sure to be erected.

In some parts of the interior, the situation of
many of the farms is extremely dreary and forlorn ;
in the mid^t of sandy plains, 7 or 10 miles from'
any other habitation j with only, here and there,
a little muddy spring, or a stagnated pool, in the
otherwise dried up bed of a river, with scarcely a
drop of rain for three months together ; besides
living in continual dread^ of the Caffi-es and Bos-
jesmans.

The whole colony is intersected by chains of
mountains crossing it from east to west, and ge-
nerally barren ; some few ranges on the western

Ill

coast run from south to north, and one in parti-
cular, which begins at False Bay opposite the
Cape point, stretches northward to Olifant Rjver^
an extent of about 210 miles.

The most southern of the principal chains, run-
ning from east to west, leaves i belt of coast of
irregular breadth, varying from 20 to 60 miles*,
which is well covered with soil, indented with
bays, and watered by numerous streams.

The second great chain formed by the Zwarte
Bergen, or Black mountains, is of much greater
elevation, and more rugged in appearance, than
the former. It frequently breaks, like the Andes
of the New Continent, into double and treble
ranges, and encloses with the first a series of
elevated plains, various in their character, occa-
sionally presenting nothing but a succession of
clay flats, known by the name of harroo. In
other places, small plantations and farms meet
the eye, on the borders of feeble streams, and
are as extremely productive as the surrounding
flats are barren. The temperature of these moun-
tains is as various as the aspect of the country.

The third principal chain, ofa still greater average
height, is that denominated the Nieuwveldt's Ge-
bergte, which forms the northern boundary of a
vast uninhabited karroo, or desert, commencing
at the foot of the second. This plain, consi-
derably more elevated than those already de-

* Lichtenstein and others describe these mountains as being in
some parts within two or three miles of the coast.

^ 1

112

scribed, is 300 miles in length from east to west,
and 80 in breadth, and is one wide surface of
barren clay sprinkled over with sand. Some of
the summits of the range are upwards of 10,000
feet above the level of the sea, and in winter are
covered with snow. The northern parts of the
colony are indeed, upon the whole, almost entirely
desert j severe frosts in the winter, and the vehe-
ment heats of the summer months, seem alike the
enemies of all vegetation in such a soil, and human
habitations rarely relieve the waste.

Of the various bays that indent the long range
of coast possessed by this colony, False Bay and
Table Bay, the former on the southern and the
latter on the western shore of the Cape Peninsula,
are the principal resort of shipping. Saldanha Bay,'
in latitude 33'' south, is commodious and well
sheltered ; but wood and water are very scarce
in the neighbourhood.

All the bays on the south-east coast afford but
little shelter, and are generally dangerous : the
difficulties attending the coasting trade will always
operate against any extensive cultivation of this
country, although the land in the neighbourhood
of these bays is in general fertile.

In the whole compass of the colony there is
scarcely a navigable river: the two principal
rivers on the western coast are the Berg and the
Olifant, or Elephant river ; these have permanent
streams of water, sufficiently deep to be navigable
for small craft 20 miles up the country ^ but the

lis

mouth of the former is choked up with sand, and
across the latter is a reef of rocks.

fJI'^Tl'-'l "'"'' *"" "'Sht permanent rivers,
the last of which ,s the Great Pish river, and serves

ZZ f *''l'"'""'>"-» "f the colony; all these,
, except the Knysna, have bars of sand, or reef
of rocks, at their mouths, so as to prevent th«
entrance of even the smallest vessels ; the Knysna
tself has not more than two or three feet water at

a ill l' r f K " ''^ ^''' '^ '>'«'"' •'"* fl°-« into
frSh K " r' """"'• "'"<='' '» ^^P-^ted
fleroi 'r "" ''^" °^''^''' "'""g the strand,

200 feet wide, and deep enough to admit large
vessel- The lake is between 8 and 10 miles fn
circumference, and situated 18 miles westward
of Plettenburg bay*. Several small streams run
into the Knysna, and the neighbourhood is highly
praised for its fertility; the other rivers, on this

thTr ": *'^t°''""tz, the Camtoo, the Sunday,
the Great Fish river, &c.

The Gauritz is the principal stream of the
colony, and which, descending from the Black
Mountains, becomes, during the rains, a very
rapid torrent. ^

The Camtoo flows into a bay of the same name,
of the it!'' '"''"^''' ""'*'"" ""' """■' *" ""^^ '' ^'"P

ollt'"' "' 'T"' ''"'"'"• ^'^'' "" "■" ™«^'. tat valuable
>vhole of them beiug blocked „p ™,1. bars of sand.

114

The Sunday river rises in the Snow mountains,
and after watering a considerable portion of the
Graaff Reynet district, discharges itself in Zwart
Kops, or Algoa bay.

The Great Fish river also rises in the Snow
mountains, at a distance of 200 miles from the sea.

During the four winter months, the rivers of the
colony are, in general, impassable, and, with the
exception of those called permanent streams, en-
tirely dry the remainder of the year.

CLIMATE.

The climate of this colony is universally spoken
of as highly salubrious, upon the whole, although
it is subject to very sudden changes of temperature.
There seem to be no diseases peculiar to this spot ;
in Cape Town, however, instances of longevity are
very rare, and bilious fevers are frequent every
where among the slaves. The annual deaths in the
town, taken on the average of eight years, were
about two and a half per cent, among the whites,
and three per cent, among the slave population.

The spring is reckoned from the beginning of
September to that of December, the season by
far the most agreeable to Europeans ; the summer
from December to March, including the hottest
months of the year ; the autumn from March to
June, which, though variable, is in general fine ;
and the winter from June to September, which
is a rainy and stormy season ; though mild to the
feelings of Englishmen.

115

The periodical returns of north-west winds about
May, and of south-east winds in September, have
given them the name of monsoons : the latter are
dry, and often blasting to the fruit; the former
bring the rams, which are almost wholly confined
to the colder months. This circumstance appeai-s
to be that peculiarity in the climate which is most
unfavourable to agriculture: scarcely a drop of
ram visits the earth during the prevalence of the
baneful blasts and heats of six months of the year •
Irmt trees that are not protected suffer extremely
at this period; the human constitution becomes
relaxed and enfeebled, and the doors and windows
are obliged to be carefully closed to shield the
mhabitants from the scorching clouds of dust-
while during the remaining six months of the
year, such sheets of water occasionally pour down
from the sky as to beat off the buds of trees, and
literally open rivers in the deserts, to wash them
tor the moment, and then pass away. Some of
the vmeyards, and fruit groves, in the neighbour-
hood of Cape Town, are protected from the south-
east wmds by a screen of oak, but the arable lands
are left open.

Different portions of the colony are varioudy
affected by the heats of summer; at this season
there is a difference of from 8° to 10° of Fahren'
heit's scale, between the temperature of Cape'
Town and Wynberg, a distance of only eight
miles, arising from the circumstance of the latter

> I' "*i

116

lying to the windward of the Table Mountain,
and the former to the leeward of it.

The summer is not oppressive to Englishmen
in its general temperature at the Cape ; and during
the winter months of July, August, and September,
all the European settlers are glad, as at home,
of a constant fire. The general standard of the
height of the thermometer is, at this season,
taken for three months, from 50° at sun-rise, to
60° at noon, and in the middle of summer from
70° to 90s but the temperature of the whole
colony is subject to the most surprising and rapid
changes ; sometimes the thermometer has reached
105° in the shade*, and will rise 25° or 30° in a
few hours.

In the clear winter days, the barometer stands
higher than in the settled summer weather, the co-
lumn of mercury varying, in the former season, from
S9. 46. to 30. 35. inches, of which the first indi-
cates stormy weather, with thunder and lightning,
and the last fair and settled weather. The change-
able point is 29. 95. or 30 inches, and the slightest
alteration in the barometer is sure to indicate a
change. In the summer months, the range of the
mercury is hardly ever above 30. 10. or below 29.
74 inches ; even the south-east gales not producing
a variation of more than fifteen hundredth-parts of
an inch. The characteristic indications of the ap-
proach of winter at the Cape are, the withdraw-
* Lichtenstein says it once reached 113".

117

ing of the silvery cloud from the head of the Table
Mountain, and the change of the winds from
south-east to north-west ; a raw and cold feel first
accompanies the latter, which gradually heighten
into perfect hurricanes, and storms of thunder and
lightning of several days continuance ; when the
weather clears, the mountains east and north are
seen to be covered with snow, and the venerable
Table to have changed its fleecy garb for a thin
covering of snow, or ice.

Children are subject, at Cape Town, to the
eruptive disorders which attack them in other
parts of the world, and to sore throats very fre-
quently; but neither the small-pox nor the measles
are endemic here. Gravelly diseases are frequent,
owing to the earthy state of the water ; and con-
sumptive complaints prevail among young persons,
which the sudden changes of the climate may
partly induce or increase ; but dropsy is the dis-
ease of the middle age, which carries off its thou-
sands to the grave. An idle life, sustained, or
rather sapped, by three full meals of animal food
every day, taken with raw ardent spirits, and high-
seasoned sauces, and diversified only by smoking
and sleeping, is, perhaps, enough to account for
many more diseases than are found here ; and
such are the constant habits of the Dutch colonists
of almost every rank.

The territory of the Cape was divided by the
Dutch into four districts, or drosdys, each of which
was governed by a landrost, and a council of six.

]^w?S^

118

These districts were, first, the Cape; second,
Stellenbosch and Drakenstein; third, Zwellen-
dam ; and, fourth, Graaff Reynet.

The Dutch system of government has been fol-
lowed by the British; but subdivisions of the
country districts have taken place. The northern
part of what was once the united districts of Stel-
lenbosch and Drakenstein has been called the
district of Tulbach, and a new drosdy has been
erected. District George has been formed out of
the southern parts of Zwellendam, east of the
river Gauritz ; and the southern part of Graaff
Rejmet has been called the district of Uiten-
hagen.

That of the Cape is by far the most important
of these governments, and reaches from St. Helena
Bay to the breadth of about twenty-five miles
from the ocean, is eighty miles in length, and con-
tains two thousand square miles.

Cape Town, the capital, is situated in the bo-
som of hills, branching out from the Table^Moun-
tain, and is a neat well-built place. The streets
throughout are at right angles with each other,
and composed of houses two stories high, mostly
built of stone. Many streets have canals running
through them, shaded with avenues of oaks, and
a fine stream from Table Mountain fertilizes the
neighbourhood.

There are several handsome squares devoted to
military purposes, and the public markets ; a Cal-
vinist and Lutheran church, guard-house, justice-

119

court, prison, and a theatre. The government-
house is on the side of Table Mountain, sur-
rounded by a fine public garden, and several hand-
some villas. Eastward of the town is a pentagon
fort or castle, surrounded with a ditch and out-
works, which enclose the Bank, the Orphan Cham-
ber, and several other public offices: here also are
a magazine for military stores, and barracks for
four thousand men. The town is further defended
by several forts on the shores of Table Bay.

The number of houses, according to Mr. Bar-
row (1799), was one thousand one hundred and
forty.five, and the inhabitants were estimated at
fifteen thousand five hundred, ten thousand of
whom were blacks.

The Table Mountain is too conspicuous a fea-
ture of this part of the colony to escape the atten-
tion of any stranger : at a distance it assumes the
appearance of an immense battlement in ruins,
crowned, during the summer months, with an ele-
gant fleecy cloud, which, in allusion to the po-
pular name of the central part of the mountain,
has been, not unaptly, called the Tablecloth. The
north front, facing Cape Town, forms a horizontal
line at top, of about two miles in length, the face
of which is supported by a number of projecting
rocks that stand out upon the plain below like
buttresses, and terminate in the mountain about
midway towards the summit. The highest part of .
the mountain is three thousand five hundred and
eighty-two feeti the Table, properly so caUed, is

120

only two thousand one hundred and sixty feet
above the bay. Southward, the mountain breaks
away in steps or terraces, into the chain that
extends along the whole Cape Peninsula.

A deep chasm that divides the curtain from the
left bastion of the Mountain leads the way from
the town to the summit of this romantic elevation :
the immediate scenery is dreary and insipid. The
air on the summit is, in most parts of the year,
mild and pleasi.nt; in winter it is about 15° of
Fahrenheit lower than at Cape Town, and in sum-
mer still more, through the density of the Table-
cloud. , /

Stellenbosch and Tulbagh, now under the go-
vernment of two landrosts, extend, together,
from Cape PAguillas on the south, to the river
Koussie northward, and from the ocean and the
limits of the Cape district on the west, to the
Breede River and the Gamka, or Lion's River,
eastward; having a mean length of three hundred
and eighty miles, and a breadth of about one hun-
dred and fifty, enclosing an area of fifty-five thou-
sand square miles. Twelve hundred families, only,
occupy this vast space, so that each family has,
upon an average, forty-six square miles of land j
but the greater part is of little value : deep sandy
plains, covered with brushwood, stretch along its
whole western shore, and mountains, totally barren,
occupy the heart of the country.

The valley of Drakenstein, however, on the east
of the Cape, is well inhabited, and the sections of

1«1

these districts, between False Bay and the long
range of mountains that run northward to the
Elephant River, are among the most fruitful parts
of the colony.

Besides the village of Stellenbosch, which con-
tains about one hundred houses, there is another
called the Paarl, or Pearl, and Tulbagh, the capital
of the Drosdy of that name.

East Zwartland, and the neighbourhood of the
twenty-four rivers, are vallies in this direction ;
they are called the granaries of the Cape j and the
Roggeveldt mountains and vallies yield a large
and strong breed of horses, first introduced from
South America.

The original district of Zwellendam compre-
hended the most southern belt of land in the
colony, lying between the Black mountains and
the ocean, north and south ; it was about three
hundred and eighty miles in length, and sixty in
breadth, containing an area of nineteen thousand
square miles.

District George now cuts off about one-half of
the fruitful portion of this district towards the
south : the mountains of the coast are clothed with
forest trees, and the plains with shrubs. This
part of the colony, as a whole, is more fruitful
than any other, and contains one subdivision out
of which the Dutch government reserved twenty
thousand acres of land in its own hands for the
growth of corn. The village of Zwellendam is
situated in a delightful valley, and the new rising

^w-

l9m

town of the name of George is in the immediate
neighbourhood of the land just mentioned.

Graaff Reynet district is bounded on the north
by the Bosjesmans country, or the limits of the
colony in that direction ; on the south by the dis-
tricts George and Uitenhagen, and the sea ; west
by part of ZweUendam ; and east by Caffreland.
The eastern subdivisions (by far the most produc-
tive) are molested by the Caffres and Bosjesmans.
Very little grain is grown in this district, from the
difficulty of finding a market, and on account of
the frequent descent of locusts from the moun-
tains J but cattle and sheep thrive well. There are
several salt water lakes in the colony ; the largest
is in this district, and affords an abundant supply
of tliat valuable article.

The village at which the landrost resides
scarcely boasts a dozen houses besides his own.
In the two districts of ZweUendam and GraafF
Reynet, each family possessed, in 1800, from
forty to sixty square miles of land, but the major
part completely barren.

OD
Cl

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8 ra

too

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c ^

'ft "O

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7
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^•»*4

124

SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS.

The predominant soils of this colony are a stiff
clay, into which no plough will enter until it be
thoroughly soaked with rain ; and a light red sand,
capable of extreme fertility wherever it is suf-
ficiently irrigated.

The operations of nature are here conducted in
singular extremes : where iron,, or its oxyds, are
liberally mixed with the clay, and the feeblest rill
can be brought to bear upon the soil, astonishing
fertility will occasionally ensue ; some of the best
grapes and fruits of the colony are yielded on
these spots : the influence of a few showers of rain
in other places is equally remarkable j parched as
they will appear with the hot season, and utterly
deserted by every thing living, the rains of a few
days will clothe whole acres with verdure; the
botanist is suddenly presented with the richest
harvest of plants that is to be found in any coun-
try, and flocks of antelopes are quietly grazing.

Of the capabilities of such a country, therefore,
under the hands of British industry, it is quite
impossible to form a fair estimate at present. A
deep and fertile soil appears to reward the long
culture of some of the most unpromising spots ;
such, at any rate, is the character of the land
stretching from Cape Town to the east, or between
the most southern mountains and the shore.

The scarcity of water is the scourge of the
country, whether it be considered on the score of

1)25

health or vegetation ; still, it has been calculated
that the entire quantity of rain which falls an-
nually at the Cape exceeds that of most parts of
Europe : a strong argument for increased atten-
tion to the agricultural economy of the soil. In
almost every part of the isthmus that connects the
Cape Peninsula with the continent, and in many
places near the sea on the southern coast, fresh water
may be obtained at the depth of eight or ten feet.

Fuel is extremely scarce in the Cape district.
Most families in the town, in decent circum-
stances, are obliged to keep a slave employed en-
tirely in the collection of this article : he ascends
the mountains in the morning with a bamboo, on
which he suspends his faggots in bundles, and if,
after six or eight hours hard labour, he procures
the fuel of one fire for the following day, he is
thought to have done his duty : it is reckoned
that in the Cape Town alone, near one thousand
slaves are constantly occupied in the procuring
this article ; the annual expense of which, in a
moderate family, whether purchased or gathered,
seldom amounts to lef:^ than from forty to fifty
pounds. Many searches have been made for coal,
but no quantity of any consequence has yet been
discovered.

On the mountains of the southern coast, and
particularly in the neighbourhood of Plettenberg's
Bay, some lofty forests are found ; the trees are
of quick growth and considerable size, but ge-
nerally hollow in the heart, and much twisted in
grain : profitr<ble timber is very scarce.

" ii

1^6

The following is a Catalogue of the most useful /Voods growing in the Colon!

Colonial NaflMi.

Bosche bouibouje*

Buifel hoom
Buckan hont
Camdeboo stink-hout
Castanie hout
Coyatte hout

Cjrperus or CedM bout
Dorn hout'

Essen hout
Geel hout autiniequas
Geel hout (proper)
Goniassie hout
Hard peer

Otneral sis«.
Height

withoDta
branch

Hassagai hout

Feet.

12 to 14
15 25
12 15
20
12 20

12
8

12
14

Hottentot's bourboujes 12

fioenderspoor 13

Karru hout 6

Kersen bout 12

Keur hout 20

Klip Esien 20

Kocha 10

Massaaic hout 20

Melk hout 6

Niest hout IS

Olyven hout 6

Rood peer 20

Roode Eels 15

Rood hout 12

Salyhout 15

Saifran hout 10

Seybast 10

Stink hout
Wilgan hout
Wilde granete
Wilde Vier
Witte hout
Wit Essen hout
Wit Yzer hout
Witte boseh hout
Witte Els
Wit peer
Zwart but
Zwart yz«r hout

Zwarte hout

SO
6
12
10
15
12
25
20
10
15
IS
25

20
10

Diamttar.

Ft. Inch

9
0
0
6
6

0
S

20 50 10 O

20 40

10
30

25
15

15
12

9
6

85
10

12
20

1 0
0 9

0 10
1

lto2Jft
StoIOin.

8to 5it

1 0
1 0

1 O
3

2
2

9
I 6

4
I
O
0

30| 1

4dl 3
t

6
8
7
6
O
6

6
6

Hard and close.

Tough.

Soft and porous.

Soil.

Tough.

Of fir

Hard and tough.

Not unlike deal

Very hard.

Like plain maho-
gany.
Very hard.
Hard and close.
Tough.

Light and soft.
Hard and short.
Hard and tough.

Very hard.

Do. stands water

well.
Very hard.
Hard and tough.

Stands water well,

Hard and heavy.

Close and hard.

Tough, bark like

silk.
Like wabfiut
Of willow.
Short.
Hard.

Li^t and soft.
Close and soft.
Veiy hard.
Light and soft.
Soft and tough.
Htird and tough.

Do.
Very hard.

Not used.
Waggon wheels.
Very little used.

Staves for butter-
firkins.

Chests, drawers. &c.

Waggon wheels and
poles.

Beams, pknk, &e.

Veneering.

Sometimes in wag-
gons.

Fellies and spokes,
chairs.

Not used.

Not much used.

For bows.

Not used.

Spars, rafters^ &c.

Little used.

Carriage poles.

Known only eastward

Ploughs.

Scholia or GiiailL
(new speciei,)]

Calloclendri

•uni.

General.

Axes, waggon poles,

&c.
Mill work.
Not much used.
Waggon yokos.

Carriage poles.

FumituFe.
Little used.

Do.
Chairs, &c.
Spars, rafters.
Plank.

Ploughs and axks,
Light fellies.
Plank for boxes.
Waggons.
Poles of all ssrts.
Ploughs and axles.

Hard and tough.

Thuia(newjpecii
Mimosa Karml

Taxus elongatuJ
Taxus.

Curtesia fagina,
Schotia speciott |
Euclea.

Sophora Capeni

Ficus.

Oliva Capensii

Cunonia Cap
Budlda Salvi foii

Salix Babylouj

Lyceum,
Bophora Capeisi

Sidraoxylon.

Waggon fellies. )

Royena.
Sideroxylen Mij
I nophleot.

127

The elm, lime, beech, and ash, scarcely suc-
ceed at all ; the oak, horse-chestnut, and fir, are
sometimes large, but the growth so rapid, that
the wood is not valuable : an oak of two feet
diameter will not have a kernel of more than two
inches of good hard wood, like English oak all
the rest is mere sap ; and fir-wood is so weak and
porous as to be hardly useable. This premature*
ness is the character of all products about the
Cape not natives of the country ; it is the same
(says Lichtenstein) with animals as with planti^
and is particularly striking in horses.

The only indigenous fruit-trees are the chestnut,
the wild almond, and the wild plum. Those that
have been introduced into the colony are the
vine, apple, cherry, plum, peach, nectarine, apri-
cot, fig, orange, lemon, citron, almond, &c.

In fruit, flowers, and elegant shrubbery, no
country exceeds the Cape. The apricots, oranges,
peaches, prunes, and grapes, of Europe, flourish
in the greatest perfection j pomegranates, melons,
apples, pears, almonds, chestnuts, walnuts, and
mulberries, are also plentiful 5 the apples and
pears are rather inferior; but strawberries are
found ripe all the year, and a few raspberries of
a superior quality. No grapes in Europe are con-
sidered preferable to those of this colony, but
they are frequently gathered before they are fully
ripe, and the fermentation of the wine is not well
conducted. The brandy also is distilled with too
much rapidity.

'^•M

128

There are some good pasture farms on the
eastern side of the mountains that run northward
from the Cape, and at the southern part of the
Zwartebergen, or Black Mountains. In the same
direction are found whole plains of the common
aloe. Horses are the favourite speculation of the
grazing farmers in this direction, and the rye-
grass of the district appears to suit them well.

The sheep of the Cape have long been known
to naturalists as a very curious breed, having tails
of from six to twelve pounds weight, composed
entirely of fat. Their intestine, or net-fat, is very
little, compared with other sheep. They are
small in the body, particularly in the fore-quarters j
long legged, and of all colours, but generally
spotted; their necks are long and small, their
ears pendulous, and the wool, if such it may be
called, very hairy and unprofitable.

The fat of the tail, when melted, retains the
consistence of vegetable oils, and is frequently
used both for butter, and with the lie of salsola
as-ies, for soap. These sheep abound most in the
eastern parts of the colony.

Cattle and sheep are usually larger on the
elevated districts than in the plains, although the
latter produce a greater abundance of grass.

The wild animals of the Cape are, the lion,
rhinoceros, elephant, hippopotamus, buffalo, wolf,
panther, leopard, hyaena, jajkal, zebra, tiger-cat,
quacha, and various tribes cf antelopes, as well as
hares, rabbits, &c. &c.

12!)

The major part of these animals are now only

found .„ the outer districts. The elephant is

aken by the Hottentots by digging pit' Jde'

hjs^haunts. but the European settLs'oJenly St

Wms "*''"^'''"''-'--' -d <<"' them^ith

Ostriches, eagles, vultures,kites,pelicans,cranei'
bises, flamingos, and spoonbills, with duck, geese,
eal, snipe and partridge, abound in the colony^,
together with a vast variety of the smaller birds
of most beautiful plumage. The eggs of the
ostrich are a very palatable food,, an! are fre!
quen% found deposited in common stocks of
from SO to 40 in number.

The Cape district, which is the most pro-
ductive and populous, in proportion to its size,
has not above one-fifteenth part of its surface in
a state of cultivation.

At Cape Town is the seat of Government, and
a Court of Justice, to which the provincial Courts
appeal ; the landrosts, or resident magistrates of

On the east of the Peninsula are some of the
most productive farms of the colony. They are
divided by oak, or quince hedges, into small
squares (except the arable land which is left open)
and are from 40 to 50 in number. In the fruiteries
gardens, and vineyards, thus protected, aregrowil
a large portion of the fine fruit, vegetables. &c.
that supply the Cape market.

130

About midway between Table Bay and False
Bay are the two farms producing the genuine
Constantia wine, of which they yield from 50 to
100 leagers annually j they lie directly under the
mountains, a circumstance to which the richness
of the soil is no doubt in part to be attributed ; the
grapes are the muscatri ; and particular care is taken
in the ^ ^ocess of the vineyard, to sustain the

reputation .^the spct, by rejecting from the press
all stalks and unripe fruit. The whole of the
farms on this part of the Peninsula yield together
about 700 leagers oi wine ; and green and ripe
grapes, and prepared raisins, are sent in abund-
ance to Cape Town.

-The hexangular barley, known in England by
the name of beer or bigg, is almost the only grain
cultivated in the Peninsula, and is preferred to
oats for the feeding of horses. Higher up the
district are grown wheat, pulse, and barley ; and
the remote parts furnish horses, sheep, and horned

cattle.

Two kinds of oranges flourish in the Cape
district, the mandarin and common china j the
figs, guavas, grapes, and mulberries, are of a
superior quality ; peaches, apricots, &c. abundant,
but not so well flavoured as some of the European ;
the pears, apples, pomegranates, quinces, and
medlars plentiful, but rather inferior, being seldom
grafted ; raspberries scarce ; strawberries in season
all the year j almonds, walnuts, and chestnuts good,
but neither the filbert nor the hazel have been yet

131

cnernes, do not succeed at all

The horse is said to have hppn flrc* • . :.
from Java; but the S.^'Xl^n^t'^''^
breed from South America i, Z *''''

-d in this di,tric, aXaid '^IZS:^'
great deal of work. capable of a

The majestic eagle, and the vulture sween
•round the summit of the Table Mm ?• 5
tnin %»i4.u xi, 1 . idDie Mouiitain, and

'::iro?Ltr*''^^'°^'-^'--'"««'«

Of the fish that serve to supply the Cape markets

iTV "'«■>-'''-<»?-''. is LZ^t
«teem. and is peculiar to False Bay and the coast

K 2

'Mil

13€

eastward; next to which are the stone breams,
which weigh from 1 to 80 lbs. ; there are four
other sorts of perch ; the mackerel, rock-fish, and
a species of clupea, like our common herring ; the
sole, skate, and oyster, are good, but the latter is
not found in any quantity. No shells, or marine
productions of particular rarity, appear ; such as
are found near the Cape are burnt for lime.

The inlets of South Africa abound with whales,
which run from 50 to 60 feet in length, and yield
from 6 to 10 tons of oil. They appear to make
these bays a shelter for their young, and it is
remarkable that none but females have been
caught for years together. They are more easily
taken than in the northern seas, but from their
inferior size their bone is not valuable. The
penguin now supplies the place of the seal on
the islands of False Bay.

Scolopendras, scorpions, and immense black
spiders, infest the Cape ; but the musquitoes are
not so annoying as in most warm climates. A
particular species of the garden locust is, perhaps,
the most formidable insect of the colony ; and
the bite of the small sand fly is very troublesome.
Small land turtles are found in all the open parts
of the Peninsula ; the camelion is also freqi-antly
seen, and various species of lizards. Snakes abound
every where, and most of them are venomous.

. The districts.of Stellenbosch and Drakenstein
(now Tulbagh) unite as great extremes of barren-

133

ness and fruitfulness as the mind can readily
imagme; the far greater part being an unpro.
stable waste of sand hills and karroo plains,
whale, other portions are distinguished by a fertile
801 , overspread with vineyards, and bearing the
ncliiest fruits in the world. . j;,-
.It contains about 50,000 English acres in a state
of cultivation ; these are chiefly freehold estates
lying on the borders of the Cape district. All
the farms in this part find a ready market for
their produce at Cape Town, or in direct supplies
to the shipping. Tlie quantity of corn grown
here is but small ; wine, brandy, fruit, butter, &c
fijrnishmg a much better occupation of the land.
.uiThe drosdy of Stellenbosch lies in a line almost
directly north from the east corner of False Bay,
and is situated on the banks of the Eerste, or
First river, near 30 miles from Catie Town. The
village stands at the foot of lofty hills, and con-
tains, a handsome residence for the landrost, and
upwards of 100 houses. It is built in several
detached lines, and the houses are mostly sur-
rounded with gardens and offices, and protected
by avenues of oaks of a noble size. The emolu-
ments of the landrost are near 1500/. a year. The
clergyman enjoys a comfortable residence,* vine-
yard, and garden, free of taxes, with a salary of
120/. per annum.

To the north-east are the vallies of Great and
Little Drakenstein, sheltered by lofty mountains,
and well watered throughout by the river Berg,

■Ml

134.

and its minor streams, which unite in about the
centre of them. These two vallies together supply
full two-thirds of the wine of the Cape market.

The mountains to the eastward of these vallies
are the barrier wall between the Cape, or western
coast, and the interior; and there are but three
passes, or kloofs, that are ever crossed by wheels.

Fransche Hoeck, or French Corner, occupies
the south-east angle of the valley of Little Draken-
stein, and it is not the less interesting from the
recollection of the causes that brought its first
settlers there — the persecutions that ensued on
the revocation of the edict of Nantz : to these
people the whole colony is indebted for the cul#
tivation of the vine, here first introduced by them.

The oaks in this valley commonly reach from
QO to 30 feet high in the stem, and measure from
10 to 18 feet in circumference ; many are larger;
they appear to grow more freely and naturally
in the degree of shelter they here find from the
violent winds ; the tops are not so bent as in the
neighbourhood of Cape Town, nor is the grain of
the wood, when cut, so irregular and twisted. The
whole valley is well inhabited, so that few wild
animals appear in the daytime j but hyaenas, wolves,
and jackals, descend from the mountains at night.
Hares, partridges, widgeons, and other species of
wild ducks, &c. abound in the thick shrubbery.
In the mountains are found the roebuck and the
rock-springer, the fleetest animal, perhaps, in the
world J no dog has any chance of keeping up with

155

him, but lie is easily shot as he leaps from rock to
rock. Wheat, barley, and pulse, yield here from
U to 20 fold, after fallowing, or a couple of years
rest, or with the least manure.

The divisions of East Zwartland and the Twenty-
four Rivers, " the Granaries of the Cape," lie
to the north-west of the valley of Drakenstein,
or between the Berg river west, and the great
northern chain of mountains east. The wheat
crops are very fine and full, and the land rich to
perfect luxuriance. Rice also flourishes in the
marshy grounds, and abundance of fruit; but
wine is only made for domestic use. The Berg
river is an invaluable acquisition to the valley of
the Twenty-four rivers (whose numerous streamy
give name to it), and being capable, at a compara-
tively small expense, of a communication with
Saldanha Bay, bids fair in some future time to
open an important avenue of supplies to shipping.
North of the plain of Twenty-four Rivers is the
Picquet Berg, which grows tobacco in large quan*
tities, and of the best description in the colony.
Here also more horses, cattle, and sheep are
reared than to the south, while the grdn and fruit
are not much inferior.

The division of Olifant's river terminates the
fruitful series of plains. This stream is navigable
for small craft full 20 miles up the country, but
its banks are uninhabited until it reaches this val-
ley, which is situated between a double ridge of
the mountains that run northward from the Cape j

, , V,< 11

13()

the land, every where extremely fertile, is princi-
pally devoted to pasture, though a considerable
quantity of dried fruit is sertt annually to market.
The streams from the mountains keep it con-
stantly well watered. There is a chalybeate spring
in the neighbourhood, of the temperature of 108°
Fahrenheit.

Crossing the great chain of mountains to the
east, there is a succession of grazing farms, scat-
tered over vast karroo plains, and producing some
of the finest horses and horned cattle of the co-
lony. The watered parts of the vallies in this
ii6ighbourhood abounding with mixtures of iron
btQf and masses of iron stone, will return an in-
crease of from forty to sixty for one, for twenty
years together, without fallowing, and without
manure. On the summit of some of these moun-
tains, horses and cattle languishing with disease
will surprisingly recover ; but the whole country
is much exposed to the depredations of the Bos-
j'esmans.

• If we now follow the line of the hmits of the
colony, the Roggeveld mountains stretch east-
Ivard from the Bokkeveld until they join the
Nieuwveld, and the Sneeuwberg ranges. Their
elevation, and consequent cold, all the way, is so
considerable, that the inhabitants are obliged to
descend from their sides with their cattle in the
'^nter ; but here are reared the hardiest and the
best horses : very few other animals seek these
bleak and inhospitable regions. The Bosjesmans

1^7

rushing over them in search of unguarded cattle,
or the grating squalls of birds of prey, are the
oniy interruptions to tlie liorrid silence of winter.
Among these mountains, and a little to the
south, is the division of Roode Sand, or Wave-
ren ; here is a small rising village, with a church
and comfortable parsonage. The valley is abund-
antly watered, and is fruitful both in grain and
wine. The Chinese bamboo also flourishes here
in great beauty; rice, the Cape olive, and the
palma christi. Game is found in large quantities.
Further south, on the borders of the Hex and
Breede rivers, are some excellent meadows, well
watered, and adapted for the growth of corn:
south again of this is Zoete Milk, or Sweet Milk
valley, containing the meritorious establishment
of the Moravians. They have devoted themselves
to the civilization of the Hottentots ; and it is
their habit to teach every one of their converts
some useful trade : the place is now called Gna-
denthal, and contains about 1300 inhabitants.
Their church, at the upper end of the valley, is a
plain but neat edifice ; their corn-mill the best in
the colony, and the gardens of their village in the
highest state of cultivation. There is a similar
establishment at Groenekloof, about thirty miles
north of Cape Town.

The original district of Zwellendam stretches
from west to east along the southern shore, and
comprising the first two belts of land rising in-
wards from the ocean, contains the greatest ex.

138

tent of fruitful lands, lying together, of any of
the divisions of the colony. These lands were
divided between 600 families, and are mostly loan
farms *. A large portion of them' is now erected
into the district George.

Between the Breede river and the Gauritz, west
and east, and the first range of mountains and the
shore, is contained the drosdy of Zwellendam,
standing at the foot of the mountains, on a branch
of the Breede, and surrounded by a tract of
country rich in corn, wine, and horned cattle.
The village is about 140 miles east of Cape Town,
and has a large modern church, and a handsome
residence for the landrost, environed with planta-
tions of oak, a noble vineyard and garden.

On the other side of the Gauritz is the Drooge-
veld, or Dry Country, which reaches to Mossel
Bay, on the south coast, after which it is some-
times called. This division yields a large quan-
tity of corn, and feeds more sheep than any other
part of the district. The soil is light and sandy,
scarcely requiring a plough, and along the coast
is abundance of herbage. The large plains to the
east are overspread with the aloe, the juice of
which once yielded a considerable article of trade j
this is now falling off, the value being reduced
to three-pence per pound, and three pounds per
day are as much as can be gathered and prepared
by one person.

Hares and partridges are numerous, and on the
shore all sorts of fish, particularly some of the
* Vide page 11^, respecting the tenure of loan farms.

best oysters of the colony, and a strong sort of
muscle, that gives name to the bay.

East of Mossel Bay is Auteniequas Land, and
the drosdy of George. This is said to be the
finest land, without exception, in the colony.
Some noble forest trees crown the heights, and
contribute in no small degree to the general
fruitfulness of the district, by attracting vapours,
which descend in occasional showers of rain here,
even during the summer months. A creeping
plant grows in these woods, the innei^ bark of
which has been suggested as a good substitute for
hemp, and may be taken off in lengths of forty or
fifty feet. The natives make an useful cordage of
it. Another plant, a species of hibiscus, is ca-
pable of the same use. Corn, fine horses, and
cattle, abound throughout these shores.

Plettenberg Bay division is of similar general
character. An inland stream of this district, run-
ning westward into Gauritz river, is called Oli-
fenfs river, and gives name to a division of the
karroo plains, between the Zwart Berg and the
southern range of mountains. The soil in this
division is in somt; parts deeply impregnated with
iron, and proportionably fruitful.

The vine is cultivated in several places ; and
considerable quantities of soap and butter reach
the Cape market. Here also are the Mimosa
Karroo, growing to an unusual size, and yielding
large quantities of gum-arabic, and bark for tan-
ning; the Salsola in great luxuriance ; and abund-
ance of small antelopes and game : leopards,

140

Otters, and tiger-cats, frequent the woody banks
of the river.

juTheKamnasie Mountain, on the east, is sur-
rounded with a few grazing lands, and woody
bills,! that lead down to the Lange kloof, or Long
Pass, at delightful valley between the mountains,
along which runs one of the best roads in the
polQ^y% A series of rich pastures here suddenly
burst upon the traveller, bordered by a profusion
of heath plants, and studded with farm-houses to
the lengtj>)tpf 150 miles, each farm being, by a
regulation. 'of the Dutch government, three miles
distant from the other*. At every house is a vine-
yard and fruitery, yielding the Persian or Musca-
tel grape, which is generally dried in a summary
way for the Cape market ; and remarkably fine
oranges. The inferior and bruised grapes are
thrown with the undergrowings, and with the
lees or dregs of new wine, into large vessels to
ferment, and from this is procured the brandewyn,
an execrable cheap spirit of the Cape. Here are
also extensive plantations of tobacco.

There are but two roads leading to the south of
the valley, the one called the DuyviPs Kop, or
Devil's Head, which is considered one of the
most formidable passes of the country ; the other
the Parde Kop, or Horse's Head, which is at least
equally difficult: sixteen oxen are often. necessary
for each waggon.

The most eastern division of this portion of

• Vide Latrobe, who gives a different account of the Lange
Kloof, page 190.

141

the colony comprehends all the country between
Plettenberg's and Camtoo*s Bay, and is pene-
trated by a range of forests running parallel with
the sea coast for 150 miles, where the elephant,
rhinoceros, buffalo, and antelope are found in
herds. There is no regular road through these
thickets, but many large and well watered plains
have been cleared in the midst of them.

There are several minor rivers, and bkes,
abounding in fish. Cattle and sheep are the prin-
cipal productions, but there is no part of the
colony more evidently capable of improvement,
or indeed of any kind of agriculture.

The settlement of the town of George is near
Mossel Bay, and already contains 100 houses,
surrounded with gardens, a church, parsonage,
and school.

Graaff Reynet district, as originally laid
down, was the termination of the colony east-
ward, and divided between about 700 families. It
is at once the most promising in its agricultural
character to new settlers, and the most unsettled.
The whole of the south of this division, up to
Albany, has been recently called the district of
Uitenhagen. It is, generally speaking, a grazing
district ; but grows upwards of 10,000 muids of
good corn annually, and about half that quantity
of barley.

RemQt,€; f^xjm *i*e seat of government, large
tracts of this division had been abandoned to the

142

I <

i »

Bosjesmans and CafFres, at the period of the se-
cond British conquest of the Cape in 1806, and
is still subject to their incursions.

This district is wholly divided into loan farms.
The inhabitants are a very indifferent race of be-
ings, and extremely indolent, all the labour being
performed by the Hottentots.

In the Snowy Mountains, reaching to the
northern extremity of the colony, the finest sheep
are reared in flocks of from 4 to 5000, and im-
mense herds of cattle.

The drosdy stands in the centre of the district,
at the foot of the Snowy Mountains, 500 miles
in a direct line from Cape Town. It is a wretched
looking collection of mud cottages, and the re-
sidence of the landrost is hardly distinguishable
from the rest, except by the vineyard and offices
attached to it. Some fruitful arable land is found
within the neighbourhood, south of which are the
sources of the Sunday River. The soil is a red
clay, exceedingly rich, when it is soaked either
by the floods or rains : corn will yield fifty, sixty,
or seventy fold in such situations.

Southward is Zwart Kops, or Algoa Bay divi-
sion, but little cultivated, though possessing some
excellent farms both of arable and grazing land ;
and Zuur Veld (pronounced Surefelt), an exten-
sive series of fruitful vallies reaching to the sea
shore*.

» This is the district in which government proposes to grant
Unds to settlers.

143

Uitenhagen stands near the Zwart Kops River^
pleasantly situated at the foot of a low range of
hUls.

Graham's Town is also a new settlement of this
district, near the Great Fish River, and the re-
sidence of the deputy landrost of Albany.

About fifteen miles west of Zwart Kops, or
Algoa Bay, is a lead mine: from some experi-
ments made at the Cape, two hundred pounds of
ore were found to contain one hundred pounds of
lead, and eight ounces of silver. Lichtenstein
says, that " several experiments on one hundred
pounds of ore produced fifty-three pounds of lead,
and thirteen pounds of sulphur, but that the quan-
tity of silver was not worth mentioning." The
mine is within five miles of Camtoo's Bay, in the
bottom of a woody glen, watered by two constant
streams; it is not, however, worked, as the
expense of transport to the Cape Town, and
the high price of labour, would render the lead
dearer than that brought from Europe. Iron
ore is plentiful every where, and so rich as to
yield from seventy to eighty per cent, pure metal;
but the scarcity of fuel is a drawback to its
utility.

Large masses of native nitre have been found
adhering to the mountains, in plates of from half
an inch to an inch thick.

Some small quantities of gold are said to have
been occasionally found on the shores, washed
from the mountains; and precious stones, such as

144

cornelians, agates, &c. are often picked up in tlie
interior.

The SOUTH-EAST COAST being that fixed upon for
a settlement by government, the following extracts
from Lichtenstein's journey to those parts may
not be unacceptable to the reader, and will serve
as an additional proof, if necessary, of their
superiority in point of fertility over most other
districts of the colony.

" The great Braak River divides the district of
Mossel Bay from Auteniequaland : the mouth of
the river, like all other streams of southern Africa,
is closed by a sand bank, which, in a strong east
wind, chokes it so entirely, that at the ebb the
water does not run out. On the eastern l»ank of
the river there is a considerable height to ascend,
at the summit of which is a wide spread plain, in-
tersected with a number of small streams ; this is
one of the most fertile spots in the colony: the
river is now seen winding a considerable way, till
it is lost among rocks, overgrown with bushes and
heath plants.

" The whole tract of land between the southern
chain of hills and the coast may be considered as
a foreland, which from its low situation, from the
neighbourhood of the sea, and the peculiar cha-
racter of the hills by which it is bounded, may
be rendered extremely fertile and profitable.—
Many circumstances concur to give the southern
chains of mountains advantages not enjoyed by

145

the others, and which distinguish them entirely
from the rest of the mountains in southern Africa.
J^irst, Its course from east to west, so that, present-
ing an entire front to the south, the heat of the
sun has less effect in drying the springs above,
consequently more water flows down from them,
which nourishes the vegetation exceedingly: Se-
cond^, the great height of these mountains,
which are upon an average from four to five thou-
sand feet above the sea, and therefore attract the
clouds, which help to supply the country below
with moisture : Thirdly, their vicinity to the sea,
and the prevalence of the south winds, which give
a more humid atmosphere to the hills : Fourthly
as consequences of these circumstances, more pro!
tuse vegetation, and the nourishing abundance of
wood in the clefts, which again produces a vapour
that prevents the moisture ever being totally ex-
haled from the ground, or the flow of the water
from ever ceasing entirely. The places where
this foreland is the most contracted, where there
IS the smallest space between the mountains and
the sea, are always those whence there is the
greatest supply of water, and which abound most
m wooded clefts ; and again, where the creeks of
the sea, projecting inland, come within a mile of
the foot of the mountains, even the plains abound
with wood.

" In this way, the particular nature of the
country in Auteniequaland is sufliciently exolain-
ed, since in no part of this district are the moun-

146

tains more than three miles and a half from the
coast; numberless rivulets cross it in all direc^
tions J even in summer there is always abundance
of rain, and the whole year throughout the ground
is covered with fresh plants ; but the soil is poor,
and of that description which belongs to sour
fields. ; the different sorts of rushes and liliaceous
plants exhaust all the nourishment, and prevent
the growth of wholesome grass ; the corn-fields
require a great quantity of manure, and an evil
equal to any other is the murrain, which all these
causes combine to produce ; this renders the feed-
ing of cattle, which would otherwise be very
profitable, extremely difficult; yet there must be
some peculiarity of climate which promotes this
evil, and to which it ought, perhaps, rather to be
ascribed than to the nature of the feed, since
there are in other parts sour fields where the cattle
thrive and prosper exceedingly.

" In this, as well as in some other districts that
partake of the same soil, it is common to burn the
lands every year, by which means they are manured,
aad the foundation laid for a wholesome vegeta-
tion; but this must be done with great caution,
lest the fire should spread too far, and catch the
bushes, by which means it might be commu-
nicated to the forests, and cause incalculable
mischief.

** The Camtoo River was formerly the boundary
between the colony and the Caffre country, and,
indeed, it seems to separate two very diffeicut

147

swthern Africa, and shewed in the clear^ot
manne, the difference between the climL if th
A'tnct and that which prevails about the clpe
Town. w,th the influence produced by the abund
ant rtorm, and the heavy rains that accompany

ror^h:it-r""-^'^^-°^-pp-

AllaT f "'" "! ^"" ^^""^ *« Camtoo to
Tth,' n "^ surrounded with woods, and

whoily free from sahne particles.

" We continued our course for some fim«

m Aem, in which were large flocks of moor-birds-

ties, that we could almost have conceived ni.r
^^esin a lovely English garden. '" """•

rhe country about Algoa Bay is very dif
ferent from many other parts of the coW and
^ mature so fertile, that it produces wood"game!

2, ! '''• ""^ '""' ^'"«' th« breeding of

«fle prospers «> much, that meat, milk, buler.

of husbandry, are to be had at low prices. The
bay Itself, from the plenty of fish U produces
ofe an abundant supply of food to the J^Z

148

ants of its shores ; but, like all other bays on this
coast, has no secure anchorage for shipping : the
landing place is a little sandy spot near the mouth
of the Baaker River ; excepting this, the whole
strand is dangerous, on account of the reefs : the
surf, from the nature of the coast, is every where
so strong, that it costs immense labour to bring
the goods on shore from the vessels.

*' Zuur Veld, or Sour Grass Plains, is an ex-
tensive plain country, stretching from Algoa Bay
to the Great Fish River, the boundary of the
colony, and is the same kind of good arable or
pasture land as the plains of the Auteniequas di-
vision in Zwellendam : in its appearance it is the
most beautiful division in the whole district, being
well wooded and watered, having a great depth
of soil, and a thick covering of grass. The cattle
are also here exempt from the murrain, which is
so destructive in many other parts of the colony."
" Till the shameful rupture (says Barrow) be-
tween the peasantry and the Caffres, occasioned
entirely by the tyranny and injustice of the for-
mer, Ziiur Veld was one of the best peopled di-
visions in the district, but since that time it has
been nearly abandoned."

The following is an abridgement of the pre-
ceding account, and will bring into one view the
relative character of each district of the whole
cok)ny.

iCOlifant's River.

TahU of the District, and Division, of the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope,

DUtricti.

Cafe Dibthict.
Containi the divisions of
1. The Cape Peninsula.
S. Land between Table and )
St. Helena Bay. \

Dlitrict of Steilinboscii and
Dhakicnstiin*.

O«otr>l Chkractcr.

FroduetioD*.

{

1. Drosdy of Stellenbosch
3. Jonker'a Iloeck.

3. Bange Hocck.

4. Klapmutz.

5. Bottlebery'i Gehergte.

6. Saxenburg's do.

7. Eerste River.

8. Hottentot's Holland.
B. Moddergat. i

10. Drakenstcin& itsenvironi.*
Little Drakenstein.
Fransche Hoeck.

Paarl Village.

Dall Josephat.

Waagen Maaker's Valley.

Groeneberg.

11. Paardeberg.

12. Riebeck's Cesteel.
IS. East Zwartland.

14. Twenty-four Rivers.

15. Piquetberg.

iCOlifant's River.

17. The Biedouw.

18. Onker Bokkeveld.

19. Hantum.

20. Khamiesberg.

21. Roggeveld.

22. Nieuwveld and the Ghowf.
S3. Bokkeveld.

Mountains throughout.
Larger plains and most of the \
hills covered. f

A fruitful valley at the foot of (
lofty mountains. ]

Well watored vallies round the \
north end of False Bay. j

Wine, barley, fruits.
Wheat, barley, pulse, wine, horsei^
and cattle.

Wine, fruits, and small quantity
of grain.

Wine, brandy, fruits, butter, mnd
poultry.

fertile valley sheltered ,_
'he great chain of moun
tains running northward

Rather mountainous.
Do.

by)

in- I
d.)

Principally wine and frm'tii and
a small quantity of corn.

24. Hex River.

25. Breede River.

26. Ghoudinee and

{

Fertile and well watered plains.

Vale between tv/o lofty moun* \
tain ridges. i

Bleak, rugged mountains.
A Table mountain.

Do.
Cluster of hills.
Lofty mountains.

Do.
Vallies well sheltered, good I

Brand

meadows.
Do.
Do.

\ (Fertile vallies.

Valley. > Fertile vallies.

27. Roode Saiid or Waveren. I Large open vallies

Corn and cattle.
Do.

Wheat, barley, pulse, and fruits.
Corn, fruit, cattle, and sheep.
Dried fruit, horses, cattle, and

sheep.
Cattle and sheep.
Horses, cattle, sheep, &c
Horses and cattle.
Sheep and cattle.
Horses, sheep, and cattle.
Almost deserted.

Do.

Do.
Com, sheep, cattle.

Grain and fruits.

Wine, corn, and fruita.

* This district is now divided between Stellenbosch and Tulbagh.

150

Dlitrlcti.

58. Bot Iliver.

59. Zwart Berg.
SO. Droogo Iluggpai.
31. llivur Zender End.
37. Uyl KraaL
S3. SutitendaU Valley.

ZwttLIMDAM *.

l.TheDroidy.

3. Land between the Droidy

and Gauritz Rivur.

5. Cango.

4. Zwart Berg,

5. Trada.

6. Mostel Bay.

7. Aut«iiiequa« Land.

6. Plettenberg's Bay.

9. Olifant'i Rirer.

10. Kamnaoie.

11. Lange Kloof.

12. Sitsikamma.

GaxArr RsTNXxf .
1. The Drosdy.

t. fiMeuwbwgf.
S. Swager's Hoeck.

4. Bruyntjes Hougti.

5. Camdeboo.

6. Zwane Ruggens.

It. {Zwartkops River.

8. Zuur Veld.

9. Bosjesmans River.

10. Tarka.

11. Sea-coir River, and Rhl

noceros Berg.

12. Zwart Berg.

13. Nieuwveld, and the Ghowf.

Ototrat Cbaraettr,

A plain well watered.

HiUa.

Fine volley.

Large plaini, hilli, &c.

A fertile volley.

Fruitful plains and mountaini.

Karroo plains, and only culti-
vated in patches.

Hilly and dry.

A fine level meadow.
Forest land and plains.

A Karroo plain.

Mountainous and barren.

A long fertile valley.

Forest land.

At the foot of the Snow moun- i

tains.
Mountains iNterspersed with

line grazing land.
Do.

Hills anr plains. ■!

Karroo plains.

Dry hills.

Mountainous, with large fertile 1

plains. J

Fruitful open plains and hills.
Dry hills almost entirely bar- )

ren. j

Detached hills.

Mountains and karroo plains.
Do.

rroductioo*.

Corn, cattle, and an inferior
wins.

Com, horses, &c.

Fruits, wine.
Com, wine, cattlt.

A little corn, cattle, aad shecji,

Cora, aloes, sheep. Fine oyiten

on tlie coast.
Corn and cattle, small timber.
Small timber and fuel.
Corn, fruits, and small quaslity

of wine.
Corn, and a few shetp.
Wine, an inferior spirit, frail,

tobacco.
Grain, cattle, &t.

Com, and Inferior grapes.

iSheep, cattle, and immense litrdi

of antelopes.
|Cori> and cattle.
Grain, fruit, and the fineit liorsei

and cattle of the coiuny.
Large oxen and sheep.
Inferior caltk and sheep.

Timber, salt, grain.

Corn, c.^ttIe, sheep.
Deserted on account of the Bos-
JtsmoDS.

Cattle, sheep, &o.

Do.
Do.

* Now Zwcllendam and George.

f Now GraafTReynet and Uiteohagcn.

1.51

CLASSES AND CHARACTER OF THE INHABITANTS.

The inliabitants of tliis colony may be con-
sidered as divided into six classes, viz. The town's
people of the Cape, the vine growers, the grain
farmers, the graziers, the slaves, and the Hot>-
tentots.

The inhabitants of Cape Town are a very dis-
tinct race from the other classes, and yet are in-
timately connected with all their pursuits. In
addition to its importance as a capital, and as the
chief market for redundant produce. Cape Town
stands at present between the only two channels
of exportation and importation. Table Bay and
False Bay, and is the military key of the colony.
Here, therefore, numerous agents of the boors re-
side, who lodge them at their annual visits to the
town, and cheat them on all occasions.

The Cape is admirably situated lor commerce,
being about a month's voyage from Brazil, six
weeks from the West Indies and the Red Sea, and
two months from the coasts of Malabar and Coro-
mandel.

The present articles of export are grain, wine,
brandy, wool, hides and skins, whalebone and oil,
dried fruits, salt provisions, soap and candles,
aloes, tobacco, ivory, &c.

Wine and brandy may be considered the staple
commodities of the Cape. Hides and skins are not
exported to any great extent, and consist prin-
cipally of ox hides. The wool is very bad.

152

The export and consumption of dried fruits are
considerable ; the most important articles are
almonds and raisins, of which a quantity might
be raised sufficient for the supply of all Europe.

The almonds are small but good ; the trees
thrive well in the driest and worst soils, and in no
situation better than among the rocks on the sides
of the mountains, where nothing else would grow,
and they bear fruit from the fifth year. Ihe
mode of drying raisins is extremely simple ; the
bunch of grapes is first immersed in a strong solu-
tion of wood ashes, and afterwards laid upon a
stage, covered with rush matting, until it be
thoroughly dried.

The quantity of ivory exported is but trifling,
the elephants having in general retired beyond the
limits of the colony.

The koopman, or merchant, is a man of im-
portance at the Cape, generally in easy circum-
stances, and often of great personal respectability.
While the phlegm and apathy of the Dutch cha-
racter seldom appear more conspicuously than at
this place, and nowhere so devoid of common in-
dustry, men of undoubted talent, intelligence, and
integrity, are found at the head of this class, suc-
cessfully availing themselves of their advantages
for trade, and cultivating intercourse with all the
nations of the globe. The mercantile advantages
of Cape Town have been latterly, however, in
some degree diverted to Simon's Town, a rising
place, containing the naval arsenal of the colony,

158

and about one hundred and fifty neat houses.
The road between the two towns is twenty-three
miles in length, and kept in excellent repair.

Many of the merchants of the Cape are engaged
in the local administration of the government, and
in the civil service of the English, as they were of
the Dutch East India Company; while others are
large proprietors of inland estates. It is remark-
ed, however, that in no part of the world is pro-
perty less stationary than at the Cape, and that
few families become what may be distinctively
termed rich, from the fondness of the inhabitants
for transferring property from hand to hand, and
from the law entitling all children to share equally,
both in the personal and real estates of theirparents!

Their rage for public sales is very remarkable ;
a day does not pass without several being held in
this comparatively small town, both in the morn-
ing and afternoon, and the amount of property
sold this way in 1801, amounted to one million
five hundred thousand rix dollars. Five per cent.
is charged on these vendues, of which three and a
half per cent, go to the government, and the rest
to the auctioneer.

The imported luxuries of the other parts of the
world, together with fuel, house rent, and cloth-
ing, are very dear; but provisions of all kinds, and
every sort of ordinary comfort, are cheap. But-
chers' meat, says Barrow, was twopence per
pound, bread one penny, and a pint of tolerable

154,

wine threepence, wlien a labouring slave could
earn two shillings and sixpence per day, and a de-
cent mechanic five or six shillings : the finest
fruits and vegetables are equally reasonable and
abundant.

The smaller tradesmen and artizans are those
who have been clerks to the merchants, some few
adventurers from Europe and America, and
emancipated slaves.

Lion and tiger money is levied upon all the
burgher inhabitants of the Cape, according to the
amount of their property, though no longer devoted
to any such purpose as its name would imply :
it yields about five thousand rix dollars a year,
applicable to any public works.

Chimney and hearth money is another town, or
rather house-tax, of four and a half rix dollars per
annum, for every house or fire-place; but no
church or poor rates are known here.

Six burghers constitute a senate for the govern-
ment of the town, whose functions are something
similar to those of our city aldermen.

The established religion of the colony is Cal-
vinism, or the reformed church, the ministers of
which are a highly respectable body of men, both
in the town and country. All other sects are to-
lerated, but not directly countenanced, or paid,
by government.

Education is at a very low ebb, and was still
more so j but latterly, schools on Doctor Bell's

plan have been established both at Cape Town
and in the drosdys of each district.

The idleness of the inhabitants is extreme ; eat-
ing, drinking, smoking, and sleeping, constitute
the chief employment of the majority.

Husbands and wives, of every rank, separate
pretty early in the morning, each to their distinct
cup of coffee and attendant slaves. The former
adds his sopie (his indispensable dram), and his
pipe, to the repast; he then saunters about the
house in his night-cap and gown, or parades the
stoop, a platform before the door, until nine
o'clock, when a hearty breakfast of meat, fruits,
and wine is placed before him. From this he
rises to lounge away his time in a similar manner
until 12, when another meal of animal food, wine,
and spirits, is punctually prepared. From dinner
he retires to bed until five or six o'clock in the
evening, when he rises to make or receive visits j
smokes and drinks wine until nine, at which hour
every householder returns home to his favourite
and enormous supper : this will consist of from
ten to twelve various dishes of hot meat, fish, and
vegetables, eaten with a prodigious quantity of
fat sauces, and further libations of wine and
ardent spirits.

The wife is a regulai' attendant at the public
sales of the morning ; she comes home to dine
and sleep with her husband at 12; rises and
pays, perhaps, a few visits with him; they then
part for the evening; the men drinkins and

156

smoking in one room, and the women being,
according to a too prevalent British custom, in
another.

The young ladies of the Cape are spoken of as
being to an unusual degree the life and ornament
of society ; elegant though rather small in their
forms, and easy in their manners, they enter readily
into conversation with the numerous strangers
whom they meet in all companies, and play the
harp and piano with good grace : many of them
speak two or three European languages.

The young men of the Cape are both lumpish
and awkward : an emigration of English young
women of any respectability with a view of mar-
riage is by no means recommended *.

Consumption of Provisions, 8,c. at Cape Town, in 1798.

Heads of

Cattle.

Sheep.

Leaders of

Muldi of
Wheat.

Muids of
Barlej.

Army
Navy
Inhabitants

Total consumption

4,562
1,810
5,000

22,812

9,04+

130,000

2,000
1,000
3,000

10,000

6,000

16,900

19,460
10,000

11,372

161,856

6,000

32,900

29,460

The Vine Growers, or wine boors as they are
called at the Cape, are the most opulent cul-
tivators of the soil of this colony. Their lands
are chiefly freehold, exempt from almost all taxes,
and capable of any sort of cultivation. The usual

* This observation can apply to the Cape Town onlyj in all
infant settlements men predominate, and the females must con-
sequently be in request.

157

size of their farms is about 120 English acres, and
the culture of the grape, with an elegant garden,
generally occupies the whole.

Descended from the old French families who
first introduced the vine into the colony, they
retain much of the suavity and communicative-
ness of their ancestors, and in this respect, as
well as in the general comfort of their establish-
ments, impress the stranger with a feeling of their
respectability, and decided superiority to their
neighbours; but the French language is never
heard amongst them, and a French book of any
kind is very rarely seen.

The produce of their vineyards is brought to
market from September to the period of the new
vintage in February or March, but principally in
the four last months of the year. Here it is
subject to a rate of three rix dollars per leager
of wine or brandy, on passing the barrier; but
no duty is laid upon it at the vineyard, or when
it is sold in the country. The only taxes to which
the grower is subject are a small capitation tax,
towards repairing the highways leading into Cape
Town, and what is called the lion and tiger money.
Fourteen or sixteen oxen are required to convey
two leagers of wine, of the weight of two tons
and a half, over the deep sands of the isthmus ;
these are sometimes kept, during the greater part
of the year, at loan farms belonging to the pro-
prietors, on the east of the mountains, or they are
sent out to graze, or hired for the occasion. At

mm^:

158

these farms he wil! rear his sheep, and his com,
perhaps, or obtain them readily in exchange for
wine. Milch cows for his family, and occa-
sionally poultry, are also among the comforts of
his establishment.

A light tent waggon, drawn by six or eight
horses, constitutes the carriage of the wine boor;
and it is considered no small distinction, as his
neighbours only use oxen in their waggons. In
this he makes his excursions to the Cape, and
amongst his opulent brother boors.

The following is a sketch of the expenses and
returns of a respectable wine boor, at the period
of our former possession of the Cape in 17^9,
(according to Mr. Barrow.)

Purchase.

The first coit of the estate was
Fifteen slaves, at SOO rix dollars eaeh
Eighty wine leagers, at 1 2 do. do.
Implements for pressing, distilling, &c.
Three team of oxen
TWo waggons
Horse wa^on and team
Faroitare, utensils, &c.

Rix doUan.

15,000

4500

960

500

800

900

2000

25,160

Annual Outgoings.

Interest at 6 per cent, on 25,160 rix dollars, the

cost of the estate, &c. &c.
Three sheep per week for family use, 156 per year,

at two and a half rix dollars each

Rix dollars, s.
1509 5

390 0

159

Clothing 1 5 slaves, at 1 5 r. d. each per year

Corn for bread, 30 muids, at three r. d. each . .
Tea, cofiee, and sugar

Clothing for the family and contingencies

Duty at the barrier on 120 leagers of wine and

brandy

Wear and tear

• • •

Parochial assessments

Rixdellari. t.
225 0
108
150
350

0
0
0

.360

100

0
0
0

Annual amount of outgoings 3212 5

Annual Returns.
One hundred leagers of wine, at 30 r. d. each
Twenty leagers of brandy, at 5a . . .
The wine and brandy sold to the country boors,
with the fruit and poultry brought to the Cape
market, are more than sufficient to balance every
other contingeat and extraordinary expense.

3000 0
1000 0

Amonnt of returns
Outgoings

4000
3212

Balance in favour *

£
£

787

Equal to currency

157 8

Or about sterling

88 U

• On account of the extreme partiality of the Dutch inha-
bitants of this colony to a continual change of property, there
are- always some of these estates for sale, and aay person wish-
ing to commence vine-grower, and to have the advantages and
comforts, attendant upon a contiguity to the Cape Town, can,
with sufficient capital, easily attain his object) but by the above
calculation it appears that, including the interest, the profit on the
capital so employed, after deducting the expenses of living, is not
10 per cent. This calculation, though made 20 years back, is the
only one hitherto published upon the subject.

't, p ^Ifll-^:

IWi??

■'f.

160 .

The Grain Farmers, or corn boors, are also ge-
nerally opulent, and assume the next rank in so-
ciety to the wine boors. The most respectable of
them live in the Cape district, or the neighbour-
ing parts of Stellenbosch and Drakenstein. They
occupy loan farms, or such as are held by lease
under government, and their parochial taxes are
not more than those of the wine boors.
. These farms yield from a hundred to a thou-
sand muids of corn annually, according to their
capacity and mode of cultivation. They pay no
tithe, but a duty, about equal to one-tenth of the
value, is levied on passing the barrier into Cape
Town.

The cblonists of the Cape are miserable agricul-
turists, and may be said to owe their crops more
to the goodness of the soil than to skill and in-
dustry. The time of seeding is in the months of
May and June, and of harvest from November to
January.

Maize, wheat, and rye, do well ; barley is pro-
ductive, if the rains happen to fall early; but oats
run to straw.

The climate appears well adapted to the growth
of cotton, indigo, tobacco, silk, cochineal, tea,
coffee, sr ;ar, &c. Flax will give two crops a year,
and a species of hemp is in great abundance. The
dwarf mulberry grows here, but the silkworm
had not been introduced in 1806. The cultiva-
tion of rice and indigo is generally injurious to
the labourers* health.

161

The average return of corn, even under their
wretched system of management, is from fifteen to
twenty fold , the latter uniformly, or even more
where the land is irrigated. Tl.e sanjy soi^re
so light, as to be occasionally sown without plongh-
ing, and hardly any part of the land is ever ina-
nured In other parts a huge plough is dragged
over It by fourteen or sixteen oxen, in a very clumsy
manner, and the harrowing is not better performed :
f the scratchmg operation of the plough turns up
the greater part of the soil, the farmer is content"
large portions even of fruitful soil are frequently
seen bare of a stem, and their best mode of ploush-
ing and harrowing (for they have no idea of using
the roller) leaves the ground rougher than tl,e
roughest lea ploughing in this country. Towards
the end of spring, they will turn up the ground,
and leave it fallow until the. next seed time.

The eastern mode of treading out the corn bv
oxen. IS the substitute for thrashing here. A great
P^art of the straw is wasted; the chaifonly. and
short straw of barley, being preserved as fodder
lor horsesi

The wheat in the Cape district is fine, and fnU
m the ear weighing from sixty to sixty-five pounds
per bushel : a cargo sent to London, on the cap.
tare of the Cape in 1795. fetched the highest
pnce of the day. *"

The following is a statement of the outgoings
and returns of a loan farm of the above description
in 1799 :

^ m

jhii

i6ii

PURCHASE.

1'hc [nhc of the opstal, or buildings

Fit^y "^n, at 15 r. d. each

Fifty cows, at 8 r. d.

Twelve horses, at 40 r. d.

Six slaves, at 300 r. d.

Two waggons . • •

Furniture

Implements of husbandry

RU dolUn.
7000
750
400
480
1800
800
1000
500

12,730

Rix doDart. *.

Interest on 12,730 rix dollars, the cost of the build-
ings, &c. . • • "

ANNUAL OUTGOINGS.

Clothing fbr slaves
Ditto for the family
Tea and sugar . •

Duty on com brought to market
Parish taxes .

Contingencies, wear and tear, &c.
Corn sold to the wine boors more than sufficient to
defray all other expenses.

Annual amount of outgoings 1423 6

763 6

90 0

150 0

100 0

150 0

20 0

150 0

ANNUAL RETURNS.

Three hundred muids of com, at 4 r. d. each
One handled of barley, at S r. d.
Six loads of chaff, at 32 r. d.

1200 0
300 0
192 0

* The profit u]
the same as on tli
»n the family exp(

163

1000 pounds of butter, at one and a half sk.
Five horses sold annually

Annual amount of returns
Outgoings

Balance in favour *
Equal to curreocy
Sterling about

Rlx lotlari, A.
2J0 0

200 0

71 I«5 6

The whole manners of the.se boors are .volun.
to Englrshmen, they are generally corpulen if

Sv la" V """ P'"^«-«'= - ten,'per. aL^ o^
ngibly lazy m the.r personal habits. Gor«i„^
themselves with animal food from mornirf tf
mght. some of them grow prodigiously Z?*"
proportionably weak in mind and, b^y T^

lessness. the mistress of the house is as much a
fixture as the windows ; she places herself i", the
mornmg before her favorite coffeepot, whi h rt
mams bo.hngo„ her table most of the day. wh "j
a native black, or hottentot boy, attendftrfen
her face, or flap away the flies with twi^or

ostneh feathers. The women marry earlvTand in

general have large families, but longe^ is "

rare amongst them as at Cape Town
The Geaziees are the lowest class of the colo-

>'-ts, and consist in many parts of the refuse of

164

European society; of sailors who abandon their
vessels, or deserters from the troops who may have
been stationed here, or have put in at tlie Cape.
If these men arc fortunate enough to recommend
themselves to a settled boor's family, and marry
one of his daughters, which is frequently the case,
a few sheep and cattle are given them to begin
the world with, and those who arc steady some-
times attain considerable comforts.

The wool, as already observed, is of little va-
lue ; some attention has, however, been lately paid
to it, and the breed of sheep is somewhat im-
proved; but this kind of property is rendered
extremely precarious in many parts of the colony,
owing to a sort of murrain which sometimes at-
tacks the cattle after a dry season, and destroys
great numbers ; as well as being subject to the oc
casional inroads of the Caffres and Bosjesmans,
who swarm in the neighbourhood of the back
settlements. In the war with the Caffres in 1799,
by the accounts delivered in on oath, (althougli
two-thirds only had made any return) the loss of
the colonists was as follows :

Horses

858

Oxen

4,475

Cows and calves

. 35,474

Sheep

34,023

Goats

2,480

The bulk of the graziers are found eastward of
the Cape district, and in the extremities of the

105

settlement. Their sun)Iu8 stock is principaJIy dis-
posed of to the travelling butchers, who supply the
Cape market.

Many of the graziers are in no want of pro-
perty, and if the absence of restraint were always
liberty and happiness, no class of men could boast
of more pretensions to those blessings than the
graziers of GraafF Reynet and its vicinity. None
truly possess more means of being respectable in
any country, and few are less so : numbers of them
prefer a wholly wandering life, and sleep in their
waggons, or throw up rude huts in imitation of
those of the natives : here the master and his
Hottentots, parents and children, huddle together
until the temporary stream by which they have
encamped dries up, or the pastures are too much
eaten down.

Their settled habitations in Graaff Reynet have
but little better accommodations. They often do
not contain above one apartment, and the best of
them are built of reeds, smeared over with clay,
^nd thatched with rushes, supported by crooked
poles. A large chest for moveables of all descrip-
tions, a few chairs, and the master's bed, comprise
all the furniture. Fitleen or twenty Hottentots,
and from 1 to 5000 sheep, will often belong to
the owner of such an establishment as this.

A true Dutch peasant, or boor, has not the
smallest idea of what an English farmer means
by the word comfort. Placed in a country where
not only the necessaries, but almost every luxury
of life, might by industry be procured, he has the

;. '1

'Mm

I6i)

enjoyment of none of them. Though he has cattle
in abundance, he makes very little use of milk or
butter. In the midst of a soil and climate most
favourable for the cultivation of the vine, he
drinks no wine. He makes use of few or no ve-
getables. Three times a day his table is loaded
with masses of mutton, swimming in the grease of
the sheep's tail. The windows are without glass ;
or if there should happen to be any remains of
this article, it is so patched and daubed as
nearly to exclude the light it was intended to
admit.

The boor, notwithstanding, has his enjoyments ;
he IS absolute master of a domain several miles in
extent j and he lords it ovet' a few miserable slaves
and Hottentots without control. His pipe scarcely
ever quits his mouth, from the moment he rises till
he retires to rest, except to give him time to
swallow his sopie, (a glass of strong ardent spirit,)
to eat his meals, and to take his nap after dinner.
Unwilling to work, and unable to think, with a
mind disengaged from every sort of care or reflec-
tion, indulging to excess in the gratification of
every sensual appetite, the African boor grows
to an unwieldy size, and is carried off the stage
by the first inflammatory disease that attacks him.

This cjlass has been hitherto almost constantly
above the law ; and relying on his gun as the ma-
gistrate alike of his house and district, the boor
has often resisted, with impunity, the payment
of any rent for his farm, although subject only to
a sniall parochial impotst of a floiin, or Is. id. iOr

167

every 100 sheep, and another equally trifling on
their oxen.

They manufacture soap, and sometimes candles
to exchange for tea, sugar, &c. at the Cape market,'
which they generally visit once a year.

Their education is of course extremely low
but their hospitality very great j which indeed is
the case aU over the colony : when a traveller
arrives at a habitation, he alights from his horse,
shakes hands with the men, kisses the women, and
sits down without further ceremony ; if there be
but one bed in the house it is generally given to
the stranger*.

Leather is almost universally used in this
country instead of cordage, and is made in the
following manner. The fresh flayed ox-hide is
first cut with a knife into thongs, the breadth
being regulated according to the strength and
thickness required. The thongs are then soaked
in ley for 24 hours, after which as many are joined
together as are requisite to make the length wanted.
The whole is then thrown over a sort of gallows,
and a heavy weight of from 80 to lOOlbs. fastened
to it to stretch it down. Two slaves keep draw-
mg it backwards and fonvards with a stick between
the thongs, turning it constantly round and round,
so that the weight may bear alternately alike upon
every part ; it is thus soon dried, and is then used
without any further preparation. The harness for
the oxen that draw the waggons is made of this
leather.

* Mf. LuUobc gives a somewhat diffcieut account of this.

t : «8

168

The little trouble necessary to prepare these
thongs, and their durability, have acquired them
such a decided preference over cordage, that no
one has ever thought of turning their attention to
several sorts of native plants which appear tc
partake of the nature of hemp, with a view to
rendering them useful.

At some distance from Cape Town, the slaves,
and upon the borders, even the children of the
colonists, are clothed in leather prepared by them-
selves ; and there is an abundance of plants which
afford excellent materials for tanning. Even the
savages of southern Africa are very adroit in pre-
paring leather, ard have the art of giving it an
extraordinary pliability: in the houses of the
colonists the seats of the chairs, and the frames of
the bedsteads, are generally made of it.

The Hottentot tribes within the colony, and
in the service of the boors, are supposed to amount
to about fifteen thousand, of whom ten thousand,
at least, are in the district of Graaff Reynet. No
distinct villages are now seen in any part of the
colony, nor even twenty independent individuals
in whole districts where they most abound : they
have been wholly subdued by the Dutch into a
sort of service worse than slavery, although they
cannot, like slaves, be bought and sold. They
are the menials of every soit of establishment at
the Cape, Their field occupations are to guard
the numerous herds and flocks, to scour the coun-
try with them, oftentimes in search of food or

169

water, and endute the extremes of the climate,
on scorching plains and snowy heights, covered
by a single sheep-skin.

In general they exhibit an inveterate habit of
sloth, but where any sort of effort has be^Jn made
to cultivate their powers, and give them a feeling
of hope, and liberty in their occupations, they
have been found active, intelligent, and useful.
Their honesty and veracity, particularly the latter,
are acknowledged by all writers.
' Many of the women, when quite young, might
serve as perfect models of the human figure, so
exquisite is their form: their charms, however, are
quickly dissipated by age and child-bearing.

The children of such Hottentot women as
marry Europeans are numerous, active, and ro-
bust; these are called Baastards by the Dutch
colonists, and are becoming an important part of
the population.

^ w

: i H

*j|

The BosjESMANs are a species of Hottentots,
who, although they do not live within the colony,
have been, and appear but too likely to be, long
connected with its history and interests. Their
name is derived from their usual mode of attack,
that is, from behind the thickets or bushes of the
country, and a great part of their lives is occupied
in predatory excursions.

They neither rear cattle, nor cultivate the
ground, but subsist, when at home, on the larva;
of ants and locusts, and a few roots. They speak

170

^ dialect of the same language as the common
* Hottentot, but are singularly opposed to him in
the general vigour of their character. No human
being can be more active and cheerful than the
Bosjesmans ; they emulate the antelope in agility,
and a horse is not able to keep pace with them
over hilly, or even rough ground. In the day
time they confine themselves to their huts, lest
the boors should surprise them, and from 180 to
200 will thus herd together in the remote dis-
tricts j but they will often dance the night en-
tirely away, especially at the approach of summer.
Their weapons are uniformly dipped in poison,
and consist of a small hassagai, or spear, and bows
and arrows.

In stature the Bosjesmans are exceedingly di-
minutive i the men measuring only from four feet
six inches to four feet nine, and the women rel-
dom more than four feet four inches.

^ The Slave Population consists principally of
Malays, and natives of Mozambique and Mada-
gascar ; the proportion of slaves to whites in the
districts of Stellenbosch and the Cape, is nearly
two to one; and in Cape Town, that of male
slaves to white males, nearly five to one. They
are generally well treated, and in the capital,
(says Mr. Barrow,) are better clothed, better fed,
and infinitely more comfortable than any of the
peasantry of Europe, Every child amongst the
jricher inhabitants has its attendant slave.

171

The Caffres are a native race on the east of
the Cape, whose history and habits will be so far
interesting to the en-igrant, as a war with them is
occasionally a serious affair to the whole colony.
Their territory is divided from that of the Cape
by the Great Fish River.

The dwellings of these people resemble bee-
hives, constructed on a wooden frame, and plas-
tered both within and without with a composition
of clay, &c. They are then neatly covered with
a kind of matting.

Every Caffre bears arms; not as a profession,
but as the exigence of his affairs seems to demand
it. They are all both shepherds and warriors:
they evidently prefer the former mode of life,
and there seems no just foundation for attributing
to them a cruel or sanguinary disposition ; their
moderation towards the colonists in a variety of
instances directly indicates the contrary ; and of
treachery they have not a shade in their character.
Their principal weapons are a spear, and a sort
of club for close combat; unlike their neighbours,
the Bosjesmans and Hottentots, they never poison
their weapons, and rarely attack by surprise.

The Caffres are more attached to a pastoral
than an agricultural life, though their soil, as far
as it is known, offers great facilities for cultiva-
tion, m^ is so fertile that, with a very little la-
bour, it might be made to produce the finest
grain and fruits of the colony. So extremely
negligent are they of these advantages, that a

I' ^

172

krge species of water melon, and millet, are their
principal culinary plants. They likewise cultivate
some tobacco and hemp, both of which they use
for smoking. They rarely kill any of their cattle
for food, unless to show hospitality to a stranger.
Milk is their ordinary diet, which they always use
in a curdled state : berries of various descriptions,
and the seeds of plants, which the natives call
plantains, are also eaten, and a few of the grami-
neous roots with which the woods and the banks
of the rivers abound. Their total ignorance of
the use of ardent spirits, and fermented liquors,
and their general temperance and activity, pre-
serve them from the ravages of many disorders
which are prevalent among the other native tribes;
to say nothing of the value of their independence.

Their wealth consisting solely of cattle, they
devote the principal part of their time to the
management of Ihem, which is conducted with
great regularity. Some of their oxen are used for
riding, as they have no horses among them, and
the horns of these are twisted into a variety of
fantastic shapes.

The commerce of this people is divided be-
tween the Dutch farmers, and their eastern
neighbours the Tambookies. To the former they
bring their cattle in exchange for small pieces of
copper and iron, glass beads, and other trifles:
from the Tambookie nation they sometimes ob-
tain their wives: previous courtship is unneces-
sary, they have only to make a bargain with the

173

parent of the desired object. Polygamy is al-
lowed, but as wives are expensive, the common
people seldom avail themselves of this privilege.

The men are in general tall, muscular, and ro-
bust, of an open countenance, and manly grace-
ful figure; good nature and intelligence are de-
picted in their features, which never betray any
signs of fear or suspicion.

The women possess cheerful and animated
countenances, are modest in their carriage, lively,
and curious, but not intruding ; and though of a
colour nearly approaching to black, their well
constructed features, their beautifully white teeth,
and their eyes dark and sparkling, combine to
render them comparatively handsome.

The capital of this country is not very far to
the eastward of the Great Fish River.

Government, Revenue, and Laws.

The administration of all the public affairs of
this colony is vested in a governor, who is also
commander-in-chief of the forces, naval and mili-
tary, and a judge in the courts of appeal.

The landrost is at- the head of the police of
each division, and holds a provincial court for the
determining of petty causes, but an appeal lies
from these country courts to those at Cape Town,
and ultimately, in some cases, to the king in
council.

Capital crimes do not abound here to the de-

174

gree which the state of the population would lead
U8 to expect. In the first six years of the posses-
sion of the colony by Great Britain, only sixty.
three persons were sentenced to death, of whom
but thirty were executed.

A considerable amelioration in the condition of
the slaves and Hottentots is said to have taken
place of late years. There is an express depart-
ment for the registry of slaves ; the master is re-
stricted by law from inflicting any severer disci-
pline than that which may be given with a small
cane; and an officer is appointed by government
to settle any serious disputes between them.

The currency of the country is chiefly paper,
and the rate of exchange is highly advantageous
to persons from England, being at this time up-
wards of 100 per cent, in their favour.

The post-office has been established with consi-
derable regularity in all the drosdys : with Stel-
lenbosch it communicates from Cape Town twice
a week (Wednesdays and Saturdays,) and with all
the other country districts once a week.

The tenure of the land in this colony is one
of the most important features of its administra-
tion, and one of the best sources of its revenue.
The most ancient tenure is that of what are called
loan lands, or certain farms granted to the early
settlers, at an annual rent of 24 rix dollars ; it is
a kind of lease in perpetuity, the payment of the
rent being held to be a constant renewal. These
farm« are calculated to contain exactly nine square

* This is at the

175

miles*: the number of them in the whole colonj:
is about 2000.

Gratuity lands are a customary copyhold, and
pay about the same rent as the loan farms. They
are supposed to have been granted as marks of
favour, and are chiefly in the neighbourhood of
the Cape district, and in a better state of cultiva-
tion than the loan farms. They are from 100 to
150 in number.

The freehold estates are grants of about 120
English acres each, which were made to the origi-
nal settlers; they lie chiefly round the Cape Town,
and contain the best land in the colony.

No just complaint can be made of the amount
of taxes in this settlement. The colonists pay no
land tax, window tax, excise, nor any impost on
the luxuries of life: they are not required to main-
tain their clergy, and are exempt from poor rates:
the vendue duty, the stamp duty, the transfer
duty on the sale of immoveable estates, and the
duty on the sale of buildings on loan lands, are,
in fact, heavy ; but from their nature little felt.

The principal sources of revenue may be thus
detailed :

Cmtoms.

This branch of revenue is of course subject to
frequent alterations. The present export duties
average from six to seven and a half per cent, ad

* This is at the rate of about 8-lOths of a farthing per acre.

176

vahrentf and the import duties upon British goods,
three per cent. •

The Public Vendue Duty.

This is sometimes the most considerable source
of revenue in amount. It is five per cent, on
moveable, and two per cent, on immoveable pro-
perty : of the former of which, government takes
three and a half per cent, and one and thret
quarters of the latter, the rest being given to the
agents.

Transfer of Immoveable Estates.

This is four per cent, which must be paid to
the receiver of the land revenues before convey-
ance of the estate can be made.

Licenses for retailing Beer, Wine, and Spirituous

Liquors.

These are the most profitable of all the dif-
ferent branches of revenue, and in the year 1801,
amounted to 18,640/.

Land Revenue.

This has been already explained in the account
of the tenures of land. The government also
farms out the salt-water pits, and a small quantity
of grazing land.

* Vide memoranda, infra.

177

Dutu!, levied on ffme. Brandy, ar.d Grain, at the

barrier.
These are levied on brandy and wine per leader
irrespective of the quality, and are about equal to
hve per cent, on common wine, and two and a
Half on Constantia ; upon grain, &c. the duty is
nearly equal to one tenth of the value.

Duties on the Sale of Buildings on the Loan Farms.
These are two and a half per cent, on the pur-
chase money, and must be paid, like the transfer
duty, before the property can be conveyed.

Port Fees,

All ships dropping anchor at the Cape pay a
duty of sixpence per ton.

Seizures, Fines, and Penalties,
Form no inconsiderable amount of revenue.
Conspiring to smuggle is punishable, and when
smuggled goods are seized, they are not only for-
felted, but three times the amount of their value
is levied as a fine.

Stamp Duties
Are levied on most of the instruments that are
liable to them at home, and are, as in England,
very productive*.

* A printed tariff can be obtained at the Cape; and is also
inserted in an useful little work lately published, called " Ross's
Cape Calendar."

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

1.1

Bii|28 12.5
1^ Kii 12.2

Kttau.

L25 lllliu ill 1.6

Sciences
Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STfiEET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

'<h

K^^

178

The Journal of the Rev. Mr, Latrobe having
only been published in 1818, may be supposed to
contain more interesting information, particularly
respecting the actual state of the country, than
those of the travellers who preceded him, and
from whose works extracts have been already
given. This gentleman is at the head of the
Moravian mission ; the object which led him to
the Cape was similar to that which actuates most
Emigrants — ^that of seeking for an unoccupied
portion of land in which to form a new settlement;
and as he travelled, with that view, through most of
the districts which remain unsettled, and his work
is supposed to contain a very accurate description
of the face of the country, as well as some amusing
accounts of the state of society and manners, the
compiler has extracted those parts which appeared
the most interesting and the most novel.

" The waggons at the Cape have a strong frame-
work body, with wheels and axletrees made of
iron-wood, or other wood equally hard and tough j
a travelling-waggon is furnished vnth seats, sus-
pended by leather straps to give them play, which
in some respects answer the purpose of springs,
and with a tilt of matting, covered with sailcloth,
supported by hoops of bamboo. Curtains of sail-
cloth, or leather, hang before and behind, to secure
the company against wind and rain ; the bullocks
draw by a wooden yoke, consisting of a strong
bar laid across their necks, to which are fixed, in
right angles downwards, four short pieces so as to

179

*dmit the neck of each ani„,al betw^ t^o of
them ; these are kept in their places by bei^Ld
together below the neck with a smaluS^f

T£:IT. ''''''" ^°'^ -^ fro- t^f 4

nngs of each yoke; the bullocks by pushing w,"^
ti.e.r shoulders seem to draw wifh eLe Tht
Hottentot driver has a whip, the sticl^f whT^

;rme„7fr^"-"---^^^^^

instrument, he not only cracks very loud, but hits

ZZ 1 ? '""•"'' "'* *•-« « "-t

tbl =^'t "g'ne of his government is his

their names, directing them to the right or left
by the addition of the exclamations ofl" ^J
W occasionally enforcing obedience to hr;om
".ands by a lash, or by whisking or crack ngWs
whip over their head,. A boy leads the forem^
oxen by a thong fastened about their homs a^
they seem to foUow him willingly.

"The English have made good roads i„ the

mme-'.ate neighbourhood of Cape Town, andt

S-mon's Bay ; but we soon left them, and lagged

ftrough deep sand, almost the whole way to

Groenekloof .. No trees, and but few shrubs, adorn

N 2

180

the waste ; but we noticed many pretty species of
heath, and some elegant flowers unknown to us.
The most common plant is the so-called Hottentot
fig. From beneath the sand is protruded, most of
the way to the drift or fordin^-place of the salt
river, a porous iron-stonef of singular character,
appearing here and there perforated like a honey-
comb. This iron-stone is found almost in every
part of the colony in a variety of forms. About
sunset, we reached the large salt-pans near the
Riet valley, so called from the quantity of reed
rushes growing in it. The people in the adjoining
farm very civilly sent to invite us to the house ;
but we excused ourselves, wishing yet to proceed
farther before we took up our night's lodging in
the wilderness. In about an hour's time we un-
yoked the bullocks, and left them to seek their
supper among the bushes. This is always done,
if possible, at a place where there is a stream or
pool of fresh water. The Hottentots having lighted
a fire, a mat was spread on the ground to leeward
of a large bush, which screened us from a sharp
south-east wind. Coffee was boiled ; of which,
with some eggs, cold meat, cakes and milk, we
made an excellent supper, sitting round the fire.
After our repast, we retired into the waggon to
rest, and on the following day proceeded on our
journey.

io a direction nearly east. At the time of Mr. Latrobe's visit, in
1816, the Tillage contained 1300 Hottentot inhabitant.^.

181

Oil another occasion we visitetl the town on
village of Caledon, about twenty-fiye miles south
from Gnadenthal J it is but as a sapling rising out
of the ground ; the houses are neat, and the church
in form of a cross, without a steeple* The ciF4
cumjacent country is naked, and a barren waste,
except a few green spots of cultivation in the
vale. There are warm baths about a mile be-
yond the towrfj the temperature of the water is
118*» Fahrenheit at the spring, and 1 12° in the bath.
Between two hot springs a cold^ring. rises.

"After dinner we set out to visit Mr. Lindens
farm ; it lies not far from the river Sonderend/
which is, in most places, hid by bushes. I had
expected to find a man formerly in th. employ of
government, as a commander of the Hottentots in
the Caffre war, a veld cornet, and justly esteemed
as a truly respectable character throughout the
country, inhabiting a well-built mansion, and I
was preparing a handsome apology for not appear-
ing in full dress, till I saw his miserable cottage
and its homely furniture. But African and English
ideas of the necessity of suiting your appearance
to your rank widely differ, and a man of conse-
quence is here not less respected for the shabbi-
ness of his attire, or the wretched and ruinous state
of his house and premises. Mr. Linde not having
returned from the fields, our reception was rather
dry ; as soon, however, as he entered, though clad
in an old jacket and trowsers, and barefoot, the
ease and urbanity of his manners, and the kind-

182

ttestf'With which he pressed us, to spend the night
At his house* showed him in his true character as
a Weil-bred intelligent gentleman. He had already
dne guest, and a farmer from the south arriving,
he gave him also a friendly invitation, though the
si^e of the cottage did not seem to furnish accom-
modations for so many. Some black coffee, with-
out milk, as is here the fashion, was handed round,
and We soon entered into conversa'tion respecting
the aim of our visit. — At supper no beverage of
any kind was onl^e table, and our host informed
us that he never drank either beer, wine, or spi-
rits, but only water. I therefore called for Water,
when the slave-girl in waiting brought me a slop-
basin full, no glass being used in this house. The
supper was abundant, and well dressed. The
conversation turned upon some of the beasts of
prey haunting this country, when the Southland
farmer gave an account of the depredations lately
committed by wolves and wild dogs in his neigh-
bourhood, the latter being numerous between the
mountains and the coast. Tigers are not often
seen; they skulk about the cattle-kraals and in
the woods; but wolves roam singly all over the
downy or heathy country. The wild dogs go in
packs, are very bold and mischievous,' and will
attack oxen, horses, and sheep, in spite of watch-
men and dogs. Both they and the wolves attack
always either from behind or in flank; never in
front, as a tiger does. Serpents are more danger-
ous to man.

18S

"^ One bed-room, with a hole in the wall in lieu
of a window, served all our party. This was the
hrst time I had spent a night in the enjoyment
ot African hospitality, and my fellow-travellers
assured me, of what I was in the sequel sufficiently
convinced, that it was much better than I had to
expect, when travelling into the interior.

" We were provided in the morning with an ex-
ceUent breakfast, consisting of broiled pork, ome-
lets, eggs, tea and coffee, with milk and grapes in
abundance; and though custom has excluded at-
tention to what Englishmen call the comforts, yet
there seems to be no want of the necessaries of
lite, and no feeling of inconvenience attending the
absence of neatness and elegance.
^ " We forded the Sonderend, close to Gaense-
Kraal, which at some distance appeared very in-
viting, with groves of lofty oaks and pines. They
are an additional proof, that had the fost settlers
been attentive to the growth of timber both for
their own and their children's sake, they would
now have had timber and fuel sufficient, and not
be uhder the necessity of fetching the former
from Plettenberg Bay and the Zitzikamma, and of
stripping the country of its bushes to procure the
latter. I am convinced, from the experiments
made at Gnadenthal and many other places, that
whole forests of oak, and other useful timber
might be reared in a short space of time, where!
ever the soil retains any moisture."
At a subsequent period Mr. Latrobe set out '

'ii'i

184

from Gnadenthal on a journey through the eastern
settlements, from which part of his journal we have
taken the following extracts : —

" It may not be improper, in this place, to give
a more detailed account of the mode of travelling
in South Africa:— Here are no inns, and in those
farm-houses in which a traveller may sometimes,
but not always, find quarters for the night, pro-
visions are often scarce, and stores not to be pur-
chased. In some, not even a room can be had
for the party to sleep in, much less beds and other
conveniences. Every thing necessary for the ex-
pedition must, therefore, be provided, calculating
upon the time required for it ; if the journey be
long, a baggage waggon is essentially necessary.
There are no post-houses where horses may be
hired; travellers must therefore have their own
horses or oxen. The latter are by far the most
useful animals for travelling in this country, for
no expense attends the feeding of them, as they
pick their own provender in the wilderness, where
they either find grass, or eat the tender sprout of the
rhinoceros, and other bushes, generally refusing
hay or com if even set before them; whereas
if horses or mules are employed, a sufficient stock
of the latter must be provided. Many travellers
sleep in their waggons, but we found it more com-
fortable to put up a tent. Cooking utensils are
likewise necessary, as all victuals must be dressed
in the fields, unless it happens that a dinner or
supper may be had at a farm-house, where the

185

people are able and wiUing to entertain and lodge
strangers. The roads being in many places ex-
cessively bad, stony, and steep, more cattle are
wanted than on roads regularly made and kept in
repair. There are even places where more than
twenty oxen must be employed to drag the wag-
gons up the precipitous ascent, and where horses
would scarcely be of use. From this account it
is plain that arrangements, very different from
what are required in Europe, are necessary for a
journey in Africa.

" A teani or set of oxen, or horses put to a wag-
gon, is called a spann, and those places in the
wilderness where halt is made, and the oxen un-
yoked, an outspann-place. The oxen are lefl from
two to four hours to seek their food and get
rest, while the travelling party cook their victuals
and take their meals.

Since farms have multiplied, the situation and
boundaries of out-spann places have been ap-
pointed by government, generally near some river
or spring, as the want of water injures the oxen
more than the want of provender. A loaded wag-
gon requires from 12 to 16 oxen, and a light
travelling waggon from 8 to 12. Besides the Hot-
tentot driver, who, sitting on the box, directs the
whole spanui without reins, merely by means of
his long whip, there is always a man or boy em-
ployed as a leader. The heathen Hottentots have
no mercy upon their draught oxen, and the skin
of most of them is cut in all directions by their

186

whips, 80 as to present to the eye the resemblance
of net-work. They drive and ride their horses
and mules with equal want of feeling, and it is
well for them that the Cape horses are a very
hardy race.

" Atler a hot ride, we pitched our tent upon a
waste called Storm's Valley, near the banks of
the Sonderend, without a tree to screen us by its
shade from the burning rays of tlie sun. Before
us appeared some of the lower class of hills,
through which a gap admits the river Sonderend
to unite with the Breede Revier. The heat was
insupportable (7th March j 1816), and the inside
of the tent like an oven. All the butter melted,
and on attempting to finish some sketches, the
colour dried instantly on the paper without per-
mitting any washing.

" After a ride of about four hours we crossed the
Leu we Revier near a pleasant farm. Having
forded another small stream of brackish water,
we proceeded towards Zwellendam, where we
arrived after being enveloped in a dense fog,
followed by a heavy rain.

" The town or village of Zwellendam lies scattered,
and consists of several single houses, or rows
of buildings, connected with each other, without
much regularity. The number of inliabitants is
said to be about 300.

" As we left Zwellendam, the views to the south
became more extensive, and the mountains to the
north assumed a milder character, till the view

187

of the high range was intercepted by lower hUls.
Farms are not numerous in this part of the country.
We crossed several brooks, and regretted to see a
good deal of water, that precious fructifying agent
in this dry land, running to waste, though the
vallies appeared capable of culture. But the land
allotted to each farm occupies so large a tract of
country, and labourers are so scarce, that some
apology may be made for tlie inhabitants. Since
the slave trade has been abolished, and the slaves
remaining in the colony are sold at m enormous
price, particularly if they are skilled in- any art,
the services of the Hottentots are more wanted in
the cultivation of the land. Thus they have been
taught to know their own value, and will no longer
submit to the treatment they formerly received.
Being both by the Dutch and English laws a free
nation, they cannot be compelled to serve an
unjust or tyrannical master, and it is solely owing
to their natural indolence that many of them
remain in poverty and misery.

" Our road lay through a valley, and as long as
it was light, we feasted our eyes on the delightful
scenery, till we reached the farm of Mr. Van
Ass, in Groot Vader's Bosch. This was the first
boor's house, to which we had recourse for a night's
lodging. When we produced the landrost's order
foi Forspann*, Mr. Van Ass made many difficulties,
complaining, that it put him to great incon-

• f^orspann means a relay of oxen.

188

venience to harbour and forward us ou our
journey j that he had no beds, and could render
us no assistance in providing supper, though there
were ten, or more, slaves and Hottentot maids in
his kitchen, unemployed. At length he showed us
into a room, where we might put down our mat-
trasses, and even agreed that we might have the
use of the kitchen fire. Finding us satisfied with
his arrangements, he brightened up a little, and
entered into conversation with civility. As it
turned out a wet night, our Hottentots slept in

the tent.'

" A thick fog covered the mountains, but while
we were at breakfast it cleare^i av/ay, and pre-
sented to our view a charming landscape.

" The Groot Vader's Bosch is a forest retained
by government, the trees growing chiefly in the
kloofs and vallies, which intersect the high range
of mountains. As we proceeded, the appearance
of the coui :y grew less interesting. Very few
farms are s^en in the wide waste towards the
south. Some plovers were the only birds, and
an antelope the only quadruped we saw during
several hours ride. The low hills are covered
with aloes, and the vales rich in bushes, chiefly of
the mimosa kind.

"At two o'clock we reached Mr. Lombard's farm
on Duyvenhoek's Revier; it is well built, and
situated upon a rising ground, commanding a
fine prospect across the river towards the moun-
tains. The walls of the hall, which is the common

189

room of the family, were decorated with French
prints, more highly finished in their execution
than decent in their subjects.

" Both in approaching to and leaving this farm,
we had to cross the Duyvenhoek's Revier, which,
by some partial rain on the hills, had acquired
both depth and rapidity. The road to our next
station was interesting only by a full view of the
grand ridge of mountains, which here assumed a
different character, appearing in detached parties,
with a high peak towards the west, and a pre-
cipitous descent to the east.

" About six in the evening, we arrived at Mr.
Piet Du Preez's farm, where we met with a cordial
reception. We found two English dragoons here,
who informed us that in consequence of the cap-
ture and punishment of five of the boors, engaged
as principals in the late rebellion, the people
in the Langekloof were ill-disposed towards the
English, and very sulky.

" We lefl this hospitable mansion early in the
morning ; the house is well built, and the farm
extensive. We passed through several pretty
vales, full of shrubs and low wood. About noon
we arrived at Zeckoegat, on Vat Revier, a large
farm belonging to Mr. Cobus Du Preez. An
avenue of noble oaks leads up to the house. The
buildings are substantial, and surrounded by rich
plantations, unlike most of the farmers* dwellings
in this country. After dinner, Mr. Du Preez
walked with u§ into the grounds, where orangesv

190

lemons, figs, peaches, and other fruits, grow in
rich abundance. This is owing to the quantity
of water, by which he is able to irrigate all his
orchards, gardens, and vineyards.

" After a ride of nearly four hours we forded the
Gowritz Revier, which here has a sandy bed, en-
closed between low, heathy hills. The descent
to the river is very steep. We passed between
two farms, both of which had received orders to
furnish oxen. But we were again disappointed,
and obliged to encamp ; meanwhile Mr. Melville
found an old friend, Mr. Peterson, the Govern-
ment-Surveyor of the district of George, who
gave us no hopes of finding any unoccupied land,
suitable for a missionary settlement, either near
George, or in Mossel Bay.

** We now proceeded towards Mossel Bay, and
got on with speed. The country through vjrhich
we travelled was uninteresting. We passed by a
farm belonging to Mr. Alexander (Secretary to
the Governor), and turning to the left, towards
the coast, soon came in sight of the buildings
erected by government in* the bay. On our arrival,
we were very civilly received and hospitably en-
tertained by Mr. Abue, the store-keeper. While
preparing dinner, I took a walk to the sea-shore.
The rocks consist chiefly of sand-stone, coloured
in some places by iron or manganese, with veins
of quartz. Mr. Abue showed us the premises,
and went with us into the king's store-house,
built as a deposit for corn, to be purchased at a

fixed price from the fermers, and shipped off to
Cape f own for government use. Though the
benevol^t intention of government to furnish a

ritd " t""" ^'' ""' ''•*'««*er been

fdfiUed, since the latter think the price given
not a sufficient reward for their trouble in raising
and dehvenng the Com. yet by some arrangement
It « hoped that the settlement in Moslel Bay

„7 h T •" ""« the means of disposing
01 the produce of the country. The coasts of the
bay_are bushy and iloes grow in great abundance
on the surrounding hills.

"WeleftMosselBay.andwentontoHartenbosch.
rhe road was bad, and led through a forest of
arge bushes of various kinds, among which we
^rted some wild peacocks, and an antelope.

settled by Sir J. Craddock. when governor of
toe Cape. The town has about 100 inhabitants.

t!.K ^T^ "\*'"' '*""'=■' ^'Sk> f'^y ''*»"'• de-
t^hed from each other by intermediate gardens.

and form a broad street facing the drosdy. or
landrost s mansion, from which, turning in a right
angle towards the south, another street has been
begun containing the church, parsonage, and
chool-house. The town is watered, rather scantily,
by the Zwart Revier, a small stream from the
".ountams. but which, unlike others, flows both
in the dry and rainy season.

19S

We were favoured with fine, dry weather,
without which few travellers will ventute to cross
the defiles of Kayman's Gat and Trekata Kow.

" We rose before sunrise, vainly hoping to reach
Melkhout Kraal, Mr. Rex's house on the Knysna,
before dark. In an hour and a half we arrived
at the Veld-cornet's house. Our breakfast con-
sisted of excellent white bread and butter, sweet
milk, wild honey of delicious flavour, peaches, and
pears, served up in the old patriarchal style.

" From hence our road lay along the dedivity of
a hill : the mountains, with their numerous woody
glens, following each other in succession, appeared
to great advantage, till we arrived at a farm on the
Zwart Revier. The ford over the river has a deep
muddy bed, through which we plunged rather
unpleasantly; the waggons were emptied, and
their contents, as well as ourselves, brought across
the stream in a species of canoe, made of one im-
mense tree. We forded the Gow-comma river at
a place darkened by the shade of large trees, and
arrived safe at a farm where we were treated with
bread and thick milk. Leaving this place, we
passed along a low hill, and, by a turn of the road,
were unexpectedly treated with a view of the In-
dian ocean, the estuary of the Knysna, and Mr.
Re^'s farm at some distance beyond it. The out-
spann place was in a romantic situation near the
ford, on all sides enclosed by woody hills, the
river (Knysna) flowing at the foot of those to the
east. While we were at supper, and for some

193

time during the early part ofthe night, we were
treated with a horrid serenade by wolm onT
oppos.te h.U. These creatures, as also tigers, are
said to be numerous in this woody part of tf.e
countty We were not without fears about the
safety of our oxen, which were feeding loose near
our encampment.

" At one o'clock in the morning we were roused
by our drivers, who were anxious to proceed, as
we had the Knysna and another river to cross be-
fore we could reach Mr. Rex's house, both being
fordable only at low.water. Fording the Knysna
required skill in our drivers, for the river was
both deep and rapid. Having crossed both rivers
m safety, we encamped, and got a dish of coftee.
Ih*. views towards the estuary of the Knysna de-
iighted us, whenever an opening in the woods and
iiigh bushes permitted us to see them. At nine
o'clock we arrived at Melkhout Kraal, and were
cordially welcomed by Mr. Rex.

" The next morning we left Melkhout Kraal ; the
road was uneven, but presented charming views
ot the surrounding country. For some miles the
forest extends from the range of high mountains,
iorming the northern boundary ofthe bay to the
sea coast. This region is called the Port.

" The immense forests of Plettenberg Bay are
not without inhabitants. Elephants, buffaloes,
tigers, wolves, and wild boars, having little to
dread from man, find here shelter. They seem
to have chosen their ground, some preferring the

194

coast and others the mountains. Thus, if not fol-
lowed into their haunts, they are not often seen
by the traveller, especially during the day, and
we were never amused by the gambols of tigers
or leopards near the road. A few partridges
were put up, and some of them shot; but passing
through these woods, nothing is heard of that
cheerful chirping and singing of birds, that busy
hum of flying insects, with other symptoms of ani-
mated nature, which delight and inspirit the tra-
veller through the forests of England and the
European continent.

" We proceeded to a spot called JackaPs Kraal,
which had been recommended to us as suitable for
a settlement. To us it appeared, in various re-
spects, an eligible situation ; there is abundance of
water, and land enough for about 500 persons. It
is probable the soU might be so much improved,
as to produce every necessary article of subsist-
ence, though some place of change, at certain
seasons of the year, would be required for the
cattle. Conveyance from the Cape is rendered
easy, by ships sailing to Plettenberg Bay.

«* Having forded the Wittedrift, a brook running
into the Kierbooms Revier, we began to ascend
the heights, from which we had a full view of its
course and of Plettenberg Bay. The vessel re-
gularly employed to convey timber to the Cape
lay at anchor not far from the shore. The bay,
however, being exposed to the south-east, from
whence the wind generally blows with violence,

193

makes it unsafe for any vessel to lie in it longer
tnan necessity requires, otherwise it affords great
convenience to the inhabitants to have commu-
nication with the Cape by water.

" It was quite dark before we arrived at a farm,
the possessor of which, after some hesitation, per-

in the field before his house.

" After breakfast we set out, and soon entered
upon roads not easily described, so as to give
to Englishmen an adequate idea of them. How
tliese Afncan waggons can bear such thumpinfr
bouncing, twisting, and screwing between rocks
and large masses of broken stones, irregularly
piled upon each other, is almost beyond belief
iJut the Creator has mercifully provided for the
wants of men in all countries. Here grow several
species of wood, so hard and likewise so tough
that an axle-tree made of it will bear more than
an iron one of twice its thickness.

" In about two hours we reached the Pardekop
(Horses Head) mountain, over the very summit
of which we had to pass. We had now arrived
among kloofs and low hills, each of which, how-
ever would have obtained the name of mountain
in the midland counties of England. They are
uniform y vejy steep, and the ravines dividing
them fuU of huge stones, rocks, and bushes. One
must see such a- wild and trdy horrid region as
we passed through, to have u^ ; conception of it.
it IS in vam to attempt to describe it. We were

o 2

196

highly favoured in our passage of the Pardekop
into the Lange Kloof. Had it rained, we might
have been detained among the mountains several
days, as is the fate of many a traveller. The
people belonging to a waggon we met on the
road informed us that they had been three days
on the journey, and had the misfortune twice to

overset.

->* Barren as these mountains in general appear,
they yet afford a rich harvest for thj botanist,
and we found several curious plants, i nknown to
our best botanist, Mr. Melville. Elephants, wild
boars, wolves, and tigers, as likewise baboons,
haunt these desolate regions : but we saw only a
few roebucks, and antelopes.

"About five o'clock we arrived at Klip Revier,
and were welcomed by a friendly farmer : some
friends of our host were here, and dined with us.
Their conversation turned upon that never-failing
subject of complaint against the English govern-
ment, the new taxes, and the measuring and
valuing of the lands.

" We set out after breakfast, passing over rough
roads, into the narrower part of the Lange Kloof,
properly so called, being a vale of perhaps 100
miles in length, enclosed by mountains of different
heights. On entering upon it we ielt not a little
disappointed. We were no longer amused with a
magnificent show of peaks, tajkle-mountains, or
round tops in succession, but saw a long ridge of
comparatively low hills, divided, as above de-

197

scribed, by narrow, parallel kloofs, without wood
or water, skirting a dull, uncultivated vale. On
one of the hills we descried a company of ba-
boons: they at first seemed to wait our approach,
but soon retreated in haste towards the summit. In
vain we looked for the rich country and pleasant
farms described by some travellers; and after pass-
ing several mean looking houses, halted on the
waste.

" After breakfast we walked up to a farm-house,
and took a view of the premises. The poor farmer
was so much alarmed at the expense of measure-
ment and taxation, that he offered to dispose of
his place at 1200 rix-dollars. It has many ad-
vantages, and water in abundance brought by a
shte^ or canal, from a considerable distance, and
lying so high, that all the grounds may be irri-
gated with ease, and a mill supplied by it. The
house was in ruins, and one miserable room con-
tained the whole family. In the grounds stood a
remarkably large wide spreading oak, bamboos of
very stately growth, and a great number of orange,
lemon, peach, and other fruit-trees, but all ne-
glected, and going to decay. In former days
the place was kept in good order, avenues of trees
and hedges still remaining. The lands belonging
to the farm extend for a considerable way, both
up and down the river, and appeared to us well
adapted for the growth of corn and grass. But
there is an objection to this place for a missionary
station, which, in our view, was an insuperable

198

one. It licB on the high-road ; the inhabitant is
continually annoyed by calls, and put to great
expense, by entertaining all travellers without ex-
ception J and though African hospitality is by no
means what some have described it to be, but the
traveller is often turned out, and sometimes pre-
fers to encamp upon the waste, or in the field,
yet every one thinks himself at liberty to enter
any house on the road, and sit down to talk.

" We set off about ten o'clock, keeping for many
miles along the banks of the Kromm Revier, in a
narrow vale, in which, now and then, we met
with some picturesque scenery. We passed two
farms, deserted, as we were informed, by the pos-
sessors, on account of their inability to pay for
measurement and taxation.

" The Chamtoos is a considerable river. Its
stream is clear and sweet, and we regaled with a
good draught of these waters. All accounts agree
that every habitable spot on this river is occupied,
and the poor Hottentots have even been deprived
of their right to a place on Klein Revier, which a
former governor had reserved for them.

" No traveller need be afraid of the tiger of this
country entering a tent. Unless attacked, or
conceiving himself to be in danger, he cautiously
avoids meddling with man : whenever met with in
an open field, if he has opportunity to escape, he
makes off slowly and crouching like a cat ; but if
prevented from escaping, is most furious and de-
termined in self-defence. The woods about the

199

Chamtoos and Louri Reviers are said to abound
with them, and the very appearance of the country
suggests the idea of its being a haunt of wild beasts.
Cattle are not considered safe, feeding in the
woods or fields, and hardly in their kraals or
pens. We were delighted with this valley, and
visited the farmer's wife, Mrs. Van Roy : she was
full of the usual complaints against the govern-
ment, and seemed a woman of spirit.

" As we travelled along, we were greatly de-
lighted with the variety and the beauty of the
prospects that opened to our view. A dragoon had
told us that we should soon come into a country
looking Hke England, and we found his prediction
verified. The so-called Galgenbosch has very
much the appearance of an extensive range of
parks. We seemed to be passing from one park
to another. The elegant mimosa is distributed
upon the hiUs, in copses, or stands singly. Here
and there a thicket fills a dell, or a wood of large
trees a wider glen. Clumps of high trees oma^
ment the sides of the hills. But the habitations
of man are very thinly scattered over an immense
tract of country,

" After crossing Van Staade's Revier, a clear and
rapid stream, we kept for some time along the
glen, with a high woody bank on the left side of
the river. Several secretary-birds made their ap-
pearance. Tliey almost seem to know that they
are protected by man, on account of their services

Tljis*

.• m

20()

in destroying serpents and other noxious animals ;
they therefore take no pains to escape.

" For several miles the road passes over a dreary
waste, after which we entered into a dense thicket,
consisting of a vast variety of bushes, intermixed
with aloes, Indian figs of different species, and
many shrubs and flowers unknown to us. This
thicket covers a great extent of country, and the
whole of the hills descending into the vale of the
Zwartkops Revier.

" Uitenhagen presents itself pleasantly, with its
few white houses, and the mansion of the land-
rost, at the foot of a range of low hills. A plain
extends to the southward. Having crossed the
Zwartkops Revier, we reached the village about
six o'clock, and pitched our tent on the common,
near the beast-kraal and market. Mr. Melville,
. who went immediately to the post-office and in
search of friends, was every where unsuccessful.

" We drank tea with Mr. Von Buchenrode, a
German gentleman, residing here as a merchant.
He willingly rendered us every service in his
power J and indeed it was well that we found
such a generous friend at Uitenhagen, where, as
yet, little is to be had, either for love or money.

" We directed our course towards a range of
woody hills, and into a valley through which the
Witte Revier runs into the Sunday's river. The
river (Sunday) which we crossed several times,
at fording-places, runs with a rapid stream over a

201

stony bed, here and there dipping under heaps of
stones. As this was not the rainy season, there
appears to be, at all times, a sufficiency of water
for every purpose, with fall enough, either to work
a mill, or to be led into any part of the more level
ground. Both in and out of the woods we dis-
covered abundant traces of elephants.
7!«** After again several times crossing the bed of
the river, we entered upon the premises belonging
to Mr. Scheper, junior. The farm Hes in a most
romantic situation, at the bottom of an amphi-
theatre of lofty hills. It would be tedious to
attempt to particularize all the various beautiful
objects surrounding this place, but we all agreed
that it was one of the most singular spots we had
seen during the whole journey. The old farm-
house was demolished by the Caffres, about 15
year?; agoj the present dwelling is a hovel, not
much better than a Hottentot's bondhoek. We
met with a friendly reception from Mr. S. Some
dragoons were stationed here, who also seemed
pleased with a visit from their countrymen. If
this delightful spot were situated in a country
where protection might be had from wild beasts,
and still wilder men, it would be coveted by
every lover of fine scenery, and fetch a high price ;
but here it is of little value, as long as the un-
happy disturbances between the boors and the
Caffres continue to exist, even when no actual
war is carried on. Mrs. Scheper, who was a
person of better appearance and manners than

202

many of her class, grew eloquent in describing
their situation : " What signifies," said she, " our
building a good house to live in, and substantial and
expensive premises, in a place like this, when,
before we are aware, the Caffrcs push through the
wood, set all on fire, and murder those who cannot
save themselves by flight ? Again, what pleasure
can we have in a fine garden, when, afler all our
trouble, the elephants descend from the kloofs,
break through fences and railings, as if nothing
was in their way, pull up or tear to pieces our
trees, trample down or devour all our crops, and
lay the whole garden waste ? No ! we must make
shifl as well as we can ; and the less we have to
lose, the less we have to regret." She seemed to
speak from a feeling of much unhappiness in being
obliged to dwell in such a country. This beautiful
valley is indeed at present the habitation of several
wild animals, but would cease to be so, if inhabited
by any number of human beings. The elephant
and rhinoceros consider large bushes no more as
impediments to their progress than a man does
tufts of grass in a field. They are not to be
stopped by common fences or palings, a id walk
unconcerned through the thickest unde^ wood, in
a straight line, tearing up or pressing du^p n' :n
stout thorn bushes as thick as a man s leg. Of
this we saw frequent proofs in the Witte Revier
valley. If, therefore, a settlement were made
hert , ihe first settlers might certainly be in danger
ui f'j nctimes having their gardens and fields in-

^03

vaded, and even trodden down or grubbed up
by these animals, and perhaps suffer other losses
by ravenous beasts, who have hitherto considered
the valley as their patrimony. But in a few years
the mischief would gradually cease, and these
creatures retire from the habitations of man j
which they are always known to do.

" We left this beautiful spot, and proceeded to
Kou! :.ey, where we were hospitably entertained
by the fuiiner, and a company of infantry stationed
Jicre.

" We set out about nine o'clock, and arrived, by
an uninteresting road, at Sand Vlachte, a farm
in a dreary flat, with mean looking cottages,
out-houses, and Hottentots* huts. Soldiers were
quartered here as security against the Caffres,
whose depredations were conducted at this time
with great boldness. The military live :n huts,
constructed of reeds and bushes.

" We now proceeded towards the Zuurberg, and
after some time entered a woody country. After
quitting the wood, we found ourselves on a barren
heath, from which the prospect was very extensive,
and we could trace our route nearly all the way
from Uitenhagen. About two in the afternoon
v'O reached Commadocha, a military post, lately
forsaken. The place was surrounded by a mud
wall and ditch. The wall had loop-holes, and
small bastions at the angles, sufficient to resist
any attack of undisciplined Caffres. The whole
situation, with the surrounding country, looked

204

dreary and comfortless in the extreme ; and having
rested half an hour, we proceeded to another
military post. Being in want of several articles,
we procured them from the contractor, whose
shop was situated on the other side of the vale.
"We took our leave, and the road being good,
arrived in about two hours at the post near the
banks of the Great Fish river, the boundary
between the colony and Caffraria. Having pitched
our tent not far from the kraal, we spent the night
quietly, though we afterwards heard, that, on that
very day, the Caffres had stolen 50 head of cattle
from the neighbouring farm, and that several
boors and soldiers were in pursuit of the thieves.
This part of Caffraria presents itself with hills
of moderate height, and a smooth outline. The
plain next the river, and ascent towards the hills,
are studded with the mimosa, and seem to be good
grazing ground.

" At sunset we arrived at a farm, where we
were civilly received, and procured a lad to show
us the way to Somerset, the residence of Dr.
Mackrdl, in Bruntjes Hocgte, which place we
reached late at night, and received a cordial
welcome.

" There is a store here, under the superintend-
ency of Dr. Mackrill, containing iron and tin-
ware, cloth, pots and pans, &c. Government, in
promoting this speculation, had a benevolent de-
sign; wishing to promote confidence among the
neighbouring Caffres, and other tribes, who, being

205

in want of such articles, might purchase them by-
barter or otherwise. Dr. Mackrill formerly cul-
tivated tobacco here, which during the American
war had risen to an enormous price ; but the war
ceasing it was discontinued, and corn is the
principal product at present.

" Our company returned from the Witte Revier.
Their report was very satisfactory : the Hottentots
were much pleased with the situation, and de-
clared that a settlement might be made there
with every convenience required by a Hottentot
congregation, there being much sweet grass, which,
in their opinion, is a point of the first consideration*.

" During our journey homeward we again visited
our old friends, Mr. and Mrs. Van Roy. In the
course of our stay, the conversation turned upon
the English. Mr. Van Roy spoke as a friend to
them, but regretted they were losing their po-
pularity in the colony, by taxation, and the mode
of settling the quit-rents. He thought it hard
that when a man had done every thing in his
power to improve his farm, by making water-
courses for irrigation, clearing land, &c. that
those very improvements should tell against him,
and he be charged a higher rent than his neigh-
bour, who was an indolent man, suffering his
estate to go to decay, when, in fact, it was better
land, and more productive, and therefore more
able to bear the burden. " But,** added he, " we

* It appears that the land on the Witte Revier was sub-
sequeatiy granted to the Moravians.

Jsii

^Wi

206

would bear taxation, if the English would only
keep a large military force in the country, as by
that means we should obtain a ready sale for our
corn and produce, and have wherewith to pay,
but now they are withdrawing their troops." As
staunch friends to our country and its govern-
ment, we heard this man*s very sensible remarks
with concern, an(^ wished that means might be
devised, consistent with the just and benevolent
disposition of our present administration, to grant
relief, and make the occupation of this land by
the British considered a blessing, and not a curse,
as we have sometimes heard it called."

The following additional particulars are extract-
ed from the several works upon this colony that
have been published within the last few months*.

* The compiler of this work has to regret that the writers
upon the Cape of Good Hope afford so little of that particular
species of information most useful to the settler, such as the
prices of provisions, &c. Even among the late numerous publica-
tions, though written purposely for the emigrant, this subject is
scarcely adverted to any further than stating, in general terms,
that " provisions are cheap ;" but what is cheap to one may not
be so to another, and the reader is as little able to form any
correct idea as ever. The majority of these books, indeed, are
chiefly composed of extracts from the work of Mr. Barrow, which
though, undoubtedly, by far the best hitherto published, yet, it
must be recollected, was written twenty years since ; and although
this period can [create but little or no change in the general
features of the country, it is otherwise with the prices of provi-
sions.

207

" Cape Town now contains about 2000 houses.
You can land from the shipping in the bay at
any part of the beach, which is bordered by a
long street nearly a mile in length. Several of
the streets have small canals of water running
through them, quayed and walled in, which, with
the regular rows of trees, and the uniformity of
the streets, have a very fine effect : they are kept
in tolerably good order ; a few of the principal
ones are paved, and the rest are firm and hard,
from the nature of the soil, which is a solid bed
of sandy clay, covered lightly with a reddish
gravel. The dust is at times very disagreeable,
and flies about in large quantities. Within these
few years many of the houses have been built in
the English style.

" The spring months are by far the most agree-
able and temperate, being equally free from the
damp fogs of winter and the parching and op-
pressive heats of summer. During this agreeable
period, which continues nearly four months, the
colonists undertake their journies to their settle-
ments in the interior.

" The vines are not suffered to grow up or

With respect to the probable prices of these articles in the in-
tended settlement between the Sunday and the Great Fish rivers
it is impossible to form any precise idea : clothing, groceries, and
such articles as must be procured from Cape Town, will, of
course, be proportionably dearer than at that place, until the
new settlements become of sufficient magnitude to hold a direct
mercantile communication with the countries from which these
articles are derived.

~, .Ji0KiVI0i

208

spread out their branches, except one or two par-
ticular species, which produce the grapes used at
table, or dried for raisins ; the other plants are re-
gularly pruned, and never suffered to grow more
than three feet high : they have the appearance of
low currant bushes.

" The wines made at the Cape are of various
qualities, but generally inferior to those of Eu-
rope, owing rather to want of attention to the cul-
ture and nature of the plant than to any natural
defect in the quality of the grape.

** The cultivation of tobacco now promises to
be very successful : a Mr. Moody, an English-
man, lately sent a large sample of this article from
the district of Zwellendam to Cape Town, which
brought a very high price." — Ross.

" The healthiness of the air, in every district
of the colony, is known to all who have breathed
it, and has never been called in question ; nor are
there any prevailing fevers, nor what may be called
seasoning disorders that attack strangers settling
in this part of the world.

" Provisions are very cheap: even in Cape
Town the price of a sheep is from three to four
rix dollars, and in the country districts, from which
Cape Town is supplied, they are sold at half that
price. ,

" The price of wheat is uncertain, varying

209

from five to ten, and in seasons of great scarcity
to twenty rix dollars, or more, the muid ; but the
ordinary average price is seven. The unsettled
price of corn at the Cape is not to be wondered
at, when the present farmers seldom trouble them-
selves about growing more than may be necessary
for their domestic consumption, although possess-
mg immense tracts of land capable of producing
more than a hundred times the present quantity.
'" The facility with which the necessaries of life
are procured has, perhaps, been the first cause
of that indolence and want of energy which has
always been considered as a principal feature in
the character of the present inhabitants, overwhom
a British emigrant, by carrying with him the in-
dustry and knowledge of his own country, would
have a thousand advantages ; and would be the
means of bringing to light the real resources of
. the country, and of turning to profit many valua-
ble productions which are now passed by unob-
served, or ignorantly supposed to be of no value.

" Zuurveld isthesputhernpart of the new district
of Albany, near one hundred miles long and eighty
broad. The centre of this district is at the dis-
tance, eastward of Cape Town, of seven hundred
miles by the road; of eighty from the village of
Uitenhage ; and a hundred and eighty from the
village of GraafFReynet. The frontier towards -
the CafFres is protected by a military force sta-
tioned at various fortified posts along, or in the
vicinity of the Great Fish River. This river, at

liriT

'•'m

• ''ill

210

its mouth, is as broad as the Thames below Lon-
don ; but it is Aot navigable many miles upwards,
and its entrance is choked up by a bar of sand.

" The head quarters of the troops stationed on
the frontier was fixed in the northern part of this
district, and has by degrees become a permanent
village, the residence of the landrost or deputy
landrost of Albany ; and has received the name
of Graham's Town.

♦« For the purpose of giving an idea of the rate
of travelling at the Cape of Good Hope, it may
here be mentioned, that the journey from Cape
Town to the Great Fish River cannot be per-
formed in much less time than a month, in wag-
gons drawn by oxen, the usual mode of tra-
velling ; even with the assistance of a double or
treble team, and with the least possible loss of
time. But by the aid of relays obtained along
the road from stage to stage, under the authority
of a government requisition, it may, of course, be
done in a shorter time. A waggon, with its ap-
purtenances, costs, when new, 700 rix dollars;
and a team of ten oxen, 300, or 350. The cus-
tomary wages of a Hottentot, in the country, is
from two to five rix dollars per month, besides
food and lodging.

" It is remarkable, that in the whole Cape co-
lony, excepting the Peninsula, there is not one
village immediately upon the coast; although
ships may land and take in cargoes of colonial
produce at several places. To the want of a

211

market and outlet, for the produce of those dis-
tncts which are too distant from Cape Town to
end the.r articles by land, may be partly ascribed
the ismchnatjon of the boors to grow more than
sufficient for the,r own consumption , although it
must be confessed that the government corn ma-
gazme, erected at Mossel Bay. for the puroose of
recemng any quantity of corn at a fixed price,
has hitherto been no inducement for the boors to
cultivate more land ; nor have they manifested the
east inclination to take advantage of the oppor-
tunity It presents for increased industry.

" Algoa Bay, where there is a fort and a party
of military, is now indeed much more frequented
by transport vessels from Cape Town ; the voyage
being from five to eight days. It is the sea-port
of the vdlage of Uitenhage; which place lie, at
the distance of twenty miles inland.

" Piettenberg's Bay is visited constantly by a
colonial vessel for timber, which is cut in the sur-
rounding forests. Although, with abundance of
materials close at hand, it would cost but a triflinc
sum to build a safe wharf or landing-place, the
attempt has never been made, notwithstanding the
graves of some English persons, drowned in land-
ing, and buried on the beach, stand a melancholy
proof of the necessity of constructing something
of this kind. At Algoa Bay there are several
graves of our countrymen who have lost their lives
in the same way.

" The fine harbour of the Kiiysna, notwithstand-

p 2

212

ing its dangerous entrance, has several times lately
been entered by ships, which have sailed out with
cargoes of timber ; and could it be possible to re-
move the sunken rocks at its mouth, it would be
the most eligible and delightful spot in the whole
colony for a town, which in time would probably
rival Cape Town in size and commerce ; having,
besides its central situation, many advantageous
circumstances to contribute to its prosperity.

" The Hottentots are excellent shepherds, and
found to be admirably expert in the management

of oxen.

« To introduce the practice of well-digging ge-
nerally into the Cape colony would be to double
the value of this part of Africa, as a habitable
land : and it is not to be accounted for on any
reasonable grounds, that the boors have made no
more attempts to supply themselves with water
by such means, than if they were totally ignorant
of there being such a practice in any part of the

world." BURCHELL.

213

MEMORANDA.

Hints for the Information of the AgriculturiBt at the Cape,
{extracted from Rosa's Calendar.)

January.

Second Summer Month.

• Ist. Cabbage must be planted in a moist soilj also French
beans, turnips, radishes, celery, leeks, and black radishes sown :
the brown lettuce to be transplanted, late cucumbers laid; if
these do not set well, they should be topped. Cauliflower to be
transplanted in a dry soil : cauliflower seed sown for an after
crop. •

The abovementioned vegetables must be well watered until
they grow.

This is the hottest month of the year, and the south-east winds
most powerful j occasionally there may be some rain : Turkey
beans are to be planted 1| inch deep.

7th. The grafted trees, which begin to shoot, must be pruned,
and cut off one inch above the graft. The vineyard should be
diligently watched, to prevent the birds from injuring it.

This, and the succeeding month, is the best season for cutting
rushes for thatching, because they are then in their full growth :
they should be tied in bundles, and carried off the land. This is
also the month for burning the fields.

14th. The rams should be put to the ewes, for the lambs to
drop in the months of May, June, and July, when there will be
grass for them, and the ewes be able to keep up their milk ; for

iti

'214,

it has been observed, timf if lliey come in later, iii a dry season,
both ewcH and lambs have died by hundreds for want of grass.

Fetl'mg of Timber for Jiuiltling. — Keurboom and beecli in Ja-
nuary. Oak in March or April j the other Cape timber all the
year round.

Febkuaby.

Third and last Summer Month,

Ist. Turnips, radishes, Dutch cabbage, salad, in moist land :
carrots and parsnips to be sown in dry land ; must be watered in
the evening. Cabl)agc and cauliflower in u dry soil ; celery, leeks,
French beans, brown lettuce, and endive, must be sown and
transplanted into moist land.

7lh. The south-cast wind blows hard this month ; but now
and then a gentle rain refreshes the soil. Turkey beans planted
in October, November, and December, are now ripe.

14th. Melons and water melons begin to ripen. Care should
be taken that the birds do not destroy the grapes that are ripe.

23d. Carrot seed now sown does well : it is best to sow it with
a declining moon, as also most of the small herbs. Peas and
Turkey beans can be planted with a growing moon, so as to make
them run well in November.

During the whole of this month, the corn must be weeded.
Turnips sown this month remain during the whole of the rainy
season, and even until October, without running to seed. The
Acid may still be burnt, but it is late.

March.

First Autumn Month.

1 St. To have early green barley for forage, it should be sown
during this month, on well manured land.

If the plough cannot work, then the seed sown upon the ma-
nure should be covered in with the spade or mattock. During
this month, Dutch cabbage seed should be sown in a moist soil,
to bo transplanted in the month of May ; about the full moon,
early chervil, parsley, spinach, white beet, red and white salad^

<21.5

oairots, all in moist land ; beans, peas, sulud, celery, leeks, and
sugar-peas, planted to liavc an early crop.

7tli. European cabbage seed sown and transplanted now, roincs
to good head in October. Sow turnips in a good dry soil. Trans-
|)lant lettuces. March and April are the best months to destroy
the couch grass in the vineyards. Melons are now ripe. This
is the season for gathering the graiies and making wine.

14th. Experience shows that the scab in orange trees is occa-
sioned by a want of water and manure ; it is, therefore, ad-
visable to open the ground about tiic stem of all sorts of orange
trees, to clean away the thin fibre roots, and to lay on a coat of
cow-dung. It must not be omitted to prune the trees, and to
cut out the dead wood. The farmer now is busy in keeping his
corn clean j if there is any land still to be broken up, choose a
tine hot day.

21st. Lemon, citron, and orange trees ought to be planted at
least twenty-five feet apart, and from all other trees or plants,
in a very good soil, which shouhl be annually manured, and the
ground well dugj otherwise, the trees growing from the seed
die, while their roots spread themselves in the ground: when
they stand too close together, they rob each other of nourishment,
and jMjrish, or gfet what is called the scab.

ApRit,.
Second Autumn Month.

1 St. To have large onions, they ought to be sown in this month
on new and well manured landj in dry weather they must be
watered.

AVhitc salad, early carrots, turnips, spinach, radishes, mus-
tard, chervil, European savoy, catbage, lentils, beans, peas, and
potatoes sown.

7th. To have cauliflowers out of season, the seed should be
sown from the middle of April till the beginning of May in rich
land ; when transplanted in June and July, they come to head iu
August and September.

14th. The violence of the tsouth-cast wind begins to moderate.

' ' f 1
jiil'i

.^t

216

If there is any rain, small herbs may be sown ; likewise salad,
parsley, bcet,';spmacli, and chervil.

21 St. Melons, lemons, apples, and pears, are now ripe.

Ditches and ponds must now be opened : during this month all
the corn should be thrashed out, or it must be kept over.

28th. The land must now be dunged at the rate of forty loads
per morgen, ;nd, if possible, ploughed.

May.
Third and last Autumn Month.

l8t. Cauliflower, Dutch cabbage, red and white salad, sown
in March, can now be transplanted, about the full moon.

Sugar and other peas to be planted in a dry soil j when broad
beans and red beans begin to blow, they must be topped. Car-
rots, turnips, onions, salad, parsley, aniseed, coriander, spinach,
peas, and beans, should be sown about the full moon ; with a de-
dining moon, onions, radishes, endive, carrots, and parsnips,
should be transplanted for seed.

7th. Before the carrots are transplanted for seed, they should,
after being pulled up, be spread on a loft, and kept there a fort-
night or three weeks. The best seed of the cabbage is that which
shoots out from the sides and the centre.

14th. Apples, pears, quinces, &c. are now ripe.

21 St. The seed of the Keurboom sown at this season thrives

well.

The land must be ploughed, and sown this month, although

there may be no rain.

28th. This is the calving and yeaning season.

June.

First Winter Month.

1st. In this month it is customary to prune the vines and clear

away the hairy roots : they should be manured every two years :

experience, however, has taught, that to lay the manure round

the stalk is by no means advisable, as it produces insects that

217

are extremely injurious to the vine, it is best to spread the ma-
nure over the land.

European cabbage, savoy, and red cabbage, must be trans-
planted into good dry ground. Sow carrots.

7th. This mouth the weather is generally fine, and conse-
quently proper for sowing both in the fields and in the gardens.
Almond trees transplanted at this time grow well.
14th. This is the best season for transplanting trees, particu-
larly the natural trees of the country; it should be rainy weather:
the south-east wind is seldom felt now ; the north and north-west-
winds prevail. This is the time for taking up potatoes. Sow
Chinese figs, transplant strawberries, plant almond nuts, the
point downwards, also chesnuts, walnuts, and hazel nuts.

Acorns should be gathered when ripe, and immediately planted}
those that drop oflf are dry, and therefore not good for planting.
If land, on which it is intended to plant trees, is not fit for it,
holes should be dug, into which two or three green boughs must
be put, covered up with rich mould, and the trees planted
therein.
2 1 St. The calving and yeaning season continues.
Orange trees, of which the stem is attacked with the scab,
must be cut down to the ground ; if the branches only are at-
tacked, they must be cut out.
Lemon trees require a moist soil, free from saltpetre.

' ■ ■«■) v'l

,' 'hi

July.
Second fV'mter Month.

1st. About the full moon sow Cape cabbage, to be transplanted
in September. All sorts of vegetables must be planted this month
for seed. In this and in the next month dig the vineyards.

It is now the proper season to transplant and to graft fruit
trees. About the end of the month sow European celery, and,
when, the moon declines, sow cauliflower, savoy, red, and other
cabbages. *

Plant potatoes in well manured land. If the eyes have shot,
each eye should be taken separately and so planted.

.--Wl

218

7th. When a vineyard is intended to be planted^ it is best to
dig the ground to the depth of three feet, and clear it of stones
and weeds, and immediately after the shoots are cut, tie tlieui
into bundles of a hundred each, and so bury them, until the end
of September or the beginning of October, when they are to be
taken up, and planted in moist weather ; though they may have
shot whilst under ground, those leaves fall off, and new ones bud
out.

This is still a proper season for transplanting foreign and
native forest trees.

Apples, pears, almonds, peaches, apricots, figs, &c. grow well
in low land.

To have late barley the land must now be prepared.

14th. Prune old vine stalks early this month: new vine stalks
may be planted in the place of those that have been removed.
The vine stalks or sets intended to be planted must be fourteen
or fifteen inches in length, and have at least two or three buds j
those that have been slipped or torn off from the stalk are the
best : they should be planted regularly in a south-east or north-
west direction. It has happened, that a vine has borne fruit the
same year of its being planted, and that eight hundred old stalks
have yielded three leagers of good red wine. It has also hap-
pened, that a small bough of an apple tree, being put into the
ground, has borne fruit the following year.

21st. When a vine stalk has died, it should not be replaced by
a new setj for the old stalks having full possession of the
ground, would draw all the nourishment from the new one, and
prevent its growing j but a hole, of about a foot deep, should be
dug close to the nearest stalk, a branch of the same laid down,
and thus covered, that only a couple of inches of it appear. When
it is found to grow, then, the year following, it should be cut half
through, close to the mother stalk : the second year it should be
cut otf quite. If any one wishes to have vines to run up by the
side of trees, they should be planted at the same time and close
together.

list. About 11

August.
T/ihd and last Winter Month.

1st. Dig up the vineyards. In this month Dutch cabbage^
cauhflowers, and red cabbage come on.

With a declining moon, sow Cape cabbage, celery, leeks, pars-
ley, turnips, chervil, carrots, parsnips, red beet, and early cu-
cumber seed. To prepare the land for early cucumber seed, after
Its having been dug, and dressed wHh horse dung, and being di-
i^ided into rows, the seed should be sown in them. When the
cucumbers do not set well, the runners should be topped.

7th. To have cauliflowers out of season, the ground should be
well dug and dunged ; sow the seed singly at proper distances,
and let the plants gj-ow without transplanting. When the heads
are forming, the outer leaves should be tied over them, so as to
p>-event the sun from drying them up.

Celery is best sown in this month, so as to be planted out in
trenches, well supplied with water, in November and December.
14th. Fruit trees should be grafted a day after the full moon j
they will bear the year following. Towards the end of this month
plant vine sets. The land intended for a new vineyard should be
prepared, and the old vineyards cleaned.

About the middle of this month, orange, lemon, and other Eu-
ropean trees should be grafted} about the same time the almond
trees begin to get into blossom, being the first trees that blow :
about the beginning of the month the vines begin to biii.

Speck trees grow well in fresh ground : transplant guava trees,
catsmint, parsley, pempernel, leeks, sorrel, and African anise
roots; also cabbages for seed, artichokes, tr>rnips, carrots, pars-
nips, and beet root.

Dams and ditches must now be attended to. This is the sea-
son to set brooding hens, ducks, and geese.

September.
First Spring Month
Ist. About the full moon nlaut onions

plant onions, bcuus, water mcloui

220

melons, pumpkins, calabas, cucumbers, celery, early cabbage^
leeks, potatoes, sugar peas, beans. Sow celery, cabbage, carrots,
salad, parsley, spinach and beet root. This is the best time for
putting small herbs into the ground 3 also French beans : be par-
ticular to use tolerably moist land. White beans to be sown in
the field.

Moist good land should be well ploughed and dragged in June
and July, and then let lie till the middle of September, when it
must be properly dunged and ploughed, in order to be sown to-
wards the end of the month.

When the beans are seen to turn somewhat blue, they must be
well watered } but when they begin to grow, let them be left to
ripen without water : the same method must be pursued to get
late peas.

The land may be used for two years ; but the third year it is
absolutely necessary to sow barley or other corn upon it, other-
wise it gets too much overrun with couch.

14th. Asparagus beds. Dig a trench, well supplied with
water, raise heaps similar to mole heaps, a foot apart, and put
the plants, two or three years old, into them ; when they are dry,
let them be well watered.

Indian seeds must be sown towards the end of this month.

21st. African almonds sown in July begin to come up. Plant
vines and asparagus. Dig up wild African asparagus to be put
into new land.

October.
Second Spring Month,

1st. Sow Cape cabbage seed, tarragon, carrots, cauliflower,
white salad seed, brown ditto, beet-root, parsley, radishes and
turnips. Plant cabbage, beans, celery, onions, potatoes, all in
moist land.

Plant pumpkins, melons, and water melons, in ground that has
been dug two spades deep.

Now and then there fulls some rain : the garden should be
sovni ; the vineyard kept clean ; and if it grows too rank, let the
shoots be topped, and the ground be hoed.

S21

15th, No;iris the busy time for the farmer; barley and oats
must be harvested.

Potatoes intended to be kept must be put into heaps, covered
with earth about three feet high, and left there until the planting
season : the potatoes require a black piouid, well manured.

November.

Third and last Spring Month.

1 St. Sow endive, lettuces, cabbage, turnips, and carrots. Plant
French beans and pease j celery, beans, cabbage, cucumbers, and
potatoes, with full moon. If the cucumbers do not bear, they
should be topped : transplant celery shortly after the full moon.

To gather small cucumbers, the seed should be planted about
the full moon, in the months of October, November, and Decem-
ber j water them when wanted ; never go between the rows by
day J when they begin to bear, top them, and gather every three
days.

1 4th. Now the south-east wind begins to prevail, and there

falls but little rain : locusts and grasshoppers do much damage.

Prepare the land for cabbages : sow cauliflower seed -, it requires
a rich soil.

The vineyard must now be attended to, and the long shoots
tied up.

27th. Plant melons and water melons ; sow beet root seed ;
also broad beans. Burn the fields.

December,

First Summer Month.

The weather is nearly the same this month as in the pre-
ceding i but tbe heat is greater.

fith. Sow turnips, carrots, celery, parsley, cabbage, spinach.
Plant cauliflower for an early crop, beans, peas, celery, and
potatoes,

12th. Orange, lemon, apple, pear, peach, plum, pomegranate,
and other trees, are now grafted.

Of sulphured wine no strong vinegar can be made.

An oven should be built with clay, not with lime; clay resist-
ing the fire longer than lime.

222

Wheat is harvested during this month,
beginning of it.
The field must be burnt this month.

Rye ripens about the

By a proclamation of the 1st of October, 1813, a duty of three
per cent, ad valorem was fixed upon the importation of every
description of British goods. In the following list, those articles
only have been selected which are likely to be carried out by the
emigrant, and upon which a certain value has been fixed by go-
vernraent, so that the amount of the duty may be easily known
at once.

Ale and beer per hogshead

Ditto in bottles, per dozen

Anvils, per cwt.

Beads, per pound

Boots, per pair

Gigs, each

Curricles

Phaetons

Chariots - - .

Clocks, each

Carpeting, English, per yard

Scotch - - .

Turkish, imitation
Coals, per chaldron
Corks, per cwt, - - .

Fishing nets, per fathom
Fowliog pieces, each
Flints, per thousand
Glue, per cwt.

Window glass, per hundred square feet
Gunpowder, per cwt.
Garden seeds free
Hops, per cwt.
Hats, fine beaver, each

Plated

Coarse - - .

Rix dollars,
50

400
800
1000
1000
75
2
1
6
45
20
i.

100
10
12

,"5

75
10

223

Hats, Felt or negro

Straw
Handspikes, per dozen
Iron in bars, per ton
Hoops

Pig - - -

Spades, per dozen
Shovels
Sickles

Smiths' vices per cwt.
Lead, sheet, per ton
Pig

Shot, per cwt.
Nails, per cwt.
Oil cloth, per piece
Paints and colours, dry, per cwt.

Ground in oils
Paper hanging, per roll
Plate, of silver, per ounce
Shoes, common, per dozen
Fine, or dress
Ladies
Children

Rix dollars.

120

160

200

150

The money in circulation at the Cape is chiefly colonial paper
currency, and is as follows.

English. English.

*• ^- s. d.

Stiver

Half Rix Dollar 2 0

*Doublejee -

Rix Dollar - 4 0

Schelling

Four Rix Dollars to a

t Guilder -

Pound currency.

* This coin is an old English penny-piece.

+ Tliis is a Dutch silver coin, nearly extinct, but which is quoted in the pur-
chase or sale of estates.

224>

The following are the Official Documents that have
been published upon the Subject of Emigration to
the Cape.

Government Circular.

Dowu,

t, London, 1819.

I have to acquaint you, in reply to your letter of the

that the following are the conditions under which it is proposed
to give encouragement to emigration to the Cape of Good Hope.
The suflFerings to which many individuals have been exposed,
who have emigrated to his Majesty's foreign possessions, un-
connected and unprovided with any capital, or even the means of
support, having been very afflicting to themselves, and equally
burdensome to the colonies to which they have proceeded, the
government have determined to confine the application of the
money recently voted by address in the House of Commons to
those persons, who, possessing the means, will engage to carry
out, at the least, ten able-bodied individuals above eighteen years
of age, with or without families, the government always reserving
to itself the right of selecting from the several oflFers made to
them those which may prove, upon examination, to be most
eligible.

In order to give some security to the government that the
persons undertaking to make these establishments have the means
of doing so, every person engaging to take out the abovementioned
number of persons or families shall deposit at the rate of ten
pounds (to be repaid as hereinafter mentioned) for every family so
taken out, provided that the family does not consist of more than
one man, one woman, and two children under fourteenjyears of age.
All children above the number of two will be to be paid for in
addition to the deposit abovementioned, in the proportion of five

225

pounds for every two children under fourteen years of age. and

eighteen ""' '""" ''*""" ^'^ "^^^ ^^ ^-^*-" -d

In consideration of this deposit, a passage shall be provided at

the expense of government for the settlers, who shall also be

v.ct«alle fro. the time of their embarkation until the time

their landing m the colony.

A grant of land, under the conditions hereafter specified, shall
be made to him at the rate of one hundred acres for ever; such
person or family whom he so takes out, one third of thT sum
advanced to government on the outset shall be repaid on landing, •
when the victualling at the expense of government shall cease
A urther proportion of one third shall be repaid, as soon as it
shaU be certified to the governor of the colony that the settlers,
under the direction of the person taking them out, are actuali;
located upon the land assigned them, and the remainder at the
expiration of three months from the date of their location

If any parishes in which there may be a redundancy of popu-
ation shall umte in selecting an intelligent individual to proceed
to the Cape with settlers under his direction, not less in number
and of the description abovementioned, and shall advance money
m the proportion abovementioned, the government will grant
land to such an individual at the rate of one hundred acres for
every head of a family, leaving the parish at liberty to make such
conditions with the individual or the settlers, as may be calculated
to prevent the parish becoming again chargeable with the main-
tenance of such settlers in the event of their return to this
country.

But no offers of this kind will be accepted, unless it shall be
clear that the persons proposing to become settlers sV U have
distinctly given their consent, and the head of each family is not
infirm or incapable of work.

It is further proposed, that in any case in which one hundred
famihes proceed together, and apply for leave to carry out with
them a minister of their own persuasion, government will upon
their being actually located, assign a salary to the minister whom

:' il

...^^f^i

226

they may have selected to accompany them, if he shall be ap-
proved by the secretary of state.

The lands will be granted at a quit rent to be paid, which rent,
however, will be remitted for the first ten years j and at the
expiration of three years (daring which the party and a number
of families in the proportion of one for every hundred acres must
have resided on the estate) the land shall be measured at the
expense of government, and the holder shall obtain, without fee,
his title thereto, on a perpetual quit rent, not exceeding in any
case two pounds sterling for every hundred acres j subject, how-
ever, to this clause beyond the usual reservations*, that the land
shall become forfeited to government, in case the party shall
abandon the estate, or not bring it into cultivation within a given

number of years.

I am your most obedient humble servant,

Henby Goulboubn,

P. S. In order to insure the arrival of the settlers at the Cape,
at the beginning of the planting season, the transports will not
leave this country till the month of November.

No. II.

Memorandum,

Paries wishing for grants in the district appointed by govern-
ment f will not be necessitated to make a direct application to his
excellency-the governor as in other cases, but it will be sufficient
for them to address the landrost, pointing out where they propose
to settle, and the authority of the landrost shall be sufficient
warrant to the party of the intention of bis Majesty's government
in his regard.

• The usual reservations are the right of the crown to mines of precious
stones, of gold and silver, and to make such roads as may be necessary for the
colony. >

t This is in the Zuur Veid between the Sunday and the Great Fish Rivers.
For a description of this part, vide pages 148 and 209.

227

The landrost is, however, to be particularly cautious in the
distribution of the ground, so as to preserve waters, that the most
extensive accommodation possible may be afforded in that regard
to future settlers : the necessity of which must be obvious from
the supposed scarcity of springs in the districts in quesUon.

In order likewise to obtain the most accurate information
possible with respect to springs in the whole of this district, the
landrost is called upon to give the greatest publicity to the pro-
clamation issued, offering rewards for the discovery of springs
proportioned to their strength.

The landrostwill communicate to thecolonialsecretary,quarterly
a list of persons taking lands under this invitation, and describing
as accurately as possible the situation of the occupancies

.' ",i<l

No. III.

Dotening-street, London, 1819.
Sir,

In reply to your letter of the , I am directed by the

Eari Bathurst to acquaint you, that as the circular letter dis-
tinctly specifies the nature and extent of the assistance which will
be granted to individuals who may be allowed to proceed as
settlers to the Cape of Good Hope ; together with the conditions
under which alone that assistance can be given to them- it is
only necessary to refer you to that document, and to add, that no
proposal can be accepted which is not framed in conformity with
the offer of his Majesty's government.

With reference to your particular inquiries respecting the
mode in which the views of the settler may be attained, I have to
acquaint you that it is not in the Earl Bathurst's power to com-
municate to you that species of information which can most pro-
perly be afforded by the practical agriculturalist, or obtained upon
the spot. -

The settlers will be located in the interior of the colony not far
from the coast; and in allotting to them the lands which govern-
ment have agreed to grant them, their interests and their wishes

'•fi

228

will be consulted and attended to, as far as may be consistent
with the public interests of the colony.

The settlers will be enabled to purchase a limited quantity of
agricultural implements in the colony at prime cost, although
they are not debarred from taking with them a moderate supply
of these articles as well as necessaries : and they will find no
difl&culty in purchasing seed corn, in the colony.

The settlers will not find habitations ready for their reception.
The person under whose direction a party of settlers proceeds
is at liberty to secure their services by any legal agreement into
which they may think proper to enter.

The new settlement will of course be governed according to
the laws in force in the colony.

In conclusion I beg to observe, that it must be left to the per-
sons taking out settlers to form their own opinions as to the
amount of the pecuniary means with which they should be pro-
vided, in order to support the persons placed under their direc-
tions and ensure the success of their undertaking.

I am, sir, your most obedient servant,

Henry Goulboubn.

No. IV.

Downing-street, 2Qth August, 1819.

Sib,

In reply to your letter of the 17th instant, I am directed by
the Earl Bathurst to acquaint you that he cannot take into con-
sideration the wish which you have expressed to be allowed to
settle at the Cape of Good Hope, unless you transmit to this
department a detailed statement of the number, names, and age
of all the persons, men, women, and children, whom you propose
to take under your direction to that colony, according to the
terms specified in the circular letter j nor unless such statement
be accompanied by an assurance that you are ready to conform
yourself to all conditions upon which his Majesty's government
have offered to grant lands in the colony.

I am, sir, your most obedient servant,
Henry GouLBour.N.

NEW SOUTH WALES.

THE colony of New South Wales is situated
on the eastern coast of New Holland. This island,
which was first discovered by the Dutch in I6l6,
lies between 9° and 39° of south latitude, and
108° and 153° of east longitude j and from its
immense size seems rather to merit the appella-
tion of continent, which many geographers have
bestowed upon it. The first colonists, consisting
of a division of convicts, marines, &c. under the
authority of Captain Arthur Phillip, the governor,
disembarked at a place called Sydney Cove in
the month of January I788*

If (says Mr. Wentworth) a judgment were
formed of this island from the general aspect of
the country bordering the sea, it would be pro-
nounced one of the most barren spots on the face
of the globe. Experience, however, has proved,
that such an opinion would be exactly the reverse

* The particular object of this work being that of exhibiting
the present state of this colony, the compiler does not consider it
necessary to enter into minute details of its progressive improve-
ment, from its first establishment. The following description of
this island, and of Van Diemen's, is principally extracted from a
work lately published by a gentleman of the name of Wentworth,
and which indeed is by far the best account we have of these
valuable colonies, and should be perused by every person intend-
ing to emigrate thitlicr.

-M

, :j^'!£K i

^230

of truth ; since, as tar as the interior has been
explored, its general fertility amply compensates
for the extreme sterility of the coast.

The grtater part of this country is covered with
timber of a gigantic growth, but of an entirely
different description from that of Europe. It is
however very durable, and well adapted to all the
purposes of human industry.

The only metal yet discovered is iron, which
abounds in every part of the country. Coals are
found in many places of the best quality. There
is also abundance of slate, limestone, and granite,
though not in the immediate vicinity of Port
Jackson; sandstone, quartz, and freestone, are
found every where.

The rivers and seas teem with excellent fish ;
but the eel, smelt, mullet, whiting, mackerel, sole,
skate, and john-dory, are believed to be the only
sorts known in this country.

The animals are, the kangaroo, native dog,
(which is a smaller species of wolf) the wombat,
bandicoot, kangaroo rat, opossum, flying squirrel,
flying fox, &c. &c. There are none of those
animals or birds which go by the name of" game"
in this country, except the heron. The hare,
pheasant, and partridge, are quite unknown j but
there are plenty of wild ducks, widgeon, teal,
quail, pigeons, plovers, snipe, &c. &c., with emiis *,

* Some of these birds arc so large that governor Hunter in his
account of the colony says, " myself and four others dined sump-
tuously off the side bone of one of them !" they are of the ostrich,
or cassowary, speciefs.

231

black swans, cockatoos, parrots, parroqucts, and
an infinite variety of smaller birds which are not
found in any other country. In fact, both its
animal and vegetable kingdoms are in h great
measure peculiar to itself.

There are many poisonous reptiles in this coun-
try, but few accidents happen either to the abori-
gines or the colonists from their bite ; there are at
least 30 species of snake, of which all but one
are venemous.

The aborigines of this country have neither
houses nor clothing; they are entirely unac-
quainted with the arts of agriculture, and even
their weapons of defence, and their hunting and
fishing implements, are of the rudest contrivance
and workmanship. Thirty years intercourse with
Europeans has not effected the slightest change
in their habits. The colour of these people is a
dark chocolate, and their features bear a strong
resemblance to the African negro.

;(■ ' '•}'!

SYDNEY.

Sydney, the capital of New South Wales, is
situated in 33" 55' of south latitude, and 151° 25'
of east longitude. It is about seven miles distant
from the entrance of Port Jackson harbour, and
stands principally on two hilly necks of land, and
the intervening valley, which together form Sydney
Cove. The western side of the town extends to
the water's edge, and occupies, with the exception

^M^l

g32

pf the small space reserved around Dawes' Bat-
tery, the whole of the neck of land which separates
-Sydney Cove from Lane Cove, besides extending
a considerable distance back into the country.
This part of the town, it may therefore be per-
ceived, forms a little peninsula; and what is of
still greater importance, the water is in general
of sufScient depth in both these coves to allow
the approach of vessels of the largest burden to
the very sides of the rock.

The appearance of the town, until the ad-
ministration of governor Macquarie, was rude
and irregular, little or no attention had been paid
to the laying out of the streets, and each pro-
prietor was left to build on his lease where and
how his caprice inclined him. He, however, has
at length succeeded in establishing a perfect
uniformity in most of the streets, and the town
upon the whole may be now pronounced tolerably
regular. The population is about 7OOO, the houses
are for the most part small, and of mean appear-
ance, yet there are many public buildings, as well
as houses of individuals, which would not disgrace
the best p^rts of this great metropolis. Of the
former class, the public stores, the general hospital,
and the barracks, are the most conspicuous; of
the latter, the houses of Messrs. Lord, Riley, Howe,
UnJerwood, and Nichols.

The value of land in this town is in many
places half as great as in the best situations in
London, and is daily increasing. Rents are in

238.

consequence exorbitantly high; it is very far
from a commodious house that can be had for
100/. per annum unfurnished.

Here is a very good market, although of recent
date. It was established by governor Macquarie
in the year 1813, and is very well supplied with
grain, vegetables, poultry, butter, eggs, and fruit ;
it is held on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays ;
there are stores erected in it by the governor for
the reception of all such provisions as remain
unsold at the close of the market, for which the
vender pays a small duty.

Here is also a bank, which was established in
the year 1817, and promises to be of great and
permanent benefit to the colony in general. Its
capital is 20,000/. divided into 200 shares ; it has
a president and six directors, who are annually
chosen by the proprietors. The paper of this
bank is now the principal circulating medium of
the colony. They discount bills of a short date,
and also advance money on mortgage securities •
they are allowed to receive in return an interest
of 10 per cent, per annum. This town also con-
tains two very good public schools for the educa-
tion of children of both sexes. One is a day
school for boys, and only intended to impart
gratuitous instruction; the other is designed both
for the support and education of poor and help-
less female orphans; when their education is
complete, they are either married to free persons
-of good character, or are assigned as servants to

234

such respectable families as may apply for them.
From 50 to 100 acres of land, with a proportionate
number of cattle, &c. are given in dower with
each female who marries with the consent of the
committee intrusted with the management of this
institution.

Besides these two public schools in the town
of Sydney, which together contained by the last
accounts 224 children, there are similar establish*
ments for the gratuitous difiusion of education in
every populous district throughout the colony.

There are in this town, and other parts of the
colony, several good private seminaries for the
board and education of the children of opulent
parents. The best is in the district of Castlereagh,
about 40 miles from Sydney, and is kept by the
clergyman of that district. The boys in this
seminary receive a regular classical education,
and the terms are as reasonable as those of similar
establishments in England.

The Harbour of Port Jackson is perhaps ex-
ceeded bv none in the world except the Derwent
(Van Diemen's) in point of size and safety, and
in this latter particular it is thought to have the
advantage. It is navigable for vessels of any
burden for about seven miles above the town,
i. e. about 15 from the entrance. It possesses the
best anchorage the whole way, and is perfectly
^sheltered from every wind that can blow. It is
said to have 100 coves, and to be capable of con-

235

taining all the shipping in the world. There can
be no doubt, therefore, that in the course of a
few years, the town of Sydney, from the ex-
cellence of its situation alone, must become a
place of considerable importance.

The views from the heights of the town are
bold, varied, and beautiful, and the neighbouring
scenery is still more diversified and romantic, par-
ticularly the different prospects which open upon
you from the hills on the south head road im-
mediately contiguous to the town, from which
you have a view of Botany Bay at the distance of
seven or eight miles.

*:r' :aj

PARRAMATTA.

The town of Parramatta is situated at the
head of Port Jackson harbour, at the distance of
about 18 miles by water, and 15 by land, from
Sydney. The river for the last seven or eight
miles is only navigable for boats of 12 or 15 tons
burden.

This town is built along a small fresh water
stream, which falls into the river. It consists
principally of one street, about a mile in length.
It is surrounded on the south side by a chain of
moderately high hills ; and as you approach it by
the Sydney road it breaks suddenly on the view
when you have reached the summit of them, and
produces a very pleasing effect. The adjacent
country has been a good deal cleared, and the

236

gay mimosas, which have sprung up in the open-
ings, form a very agreeable contrast to the dismal
gloom of the surrounding forest.

The town itself is far behind Sydney in respect
of its buildings ; but it nevertheless contains many
of a good and substantial construction; these,
with the church, the government-house, the new
orphan-house, and some gentlemen's seats which
are situated on the surrounding eminences, give it
upon the whole a very respectable appearance.
There are two very good inns, where a traveller
may meet with all the comfort and accommoda-
tion that are to be found in similar establishments
in the country towns of this kingdom ; the charges
are by no means unreasonable.

The population is principally composed of in-
ferior tradesmen, publicans, artificers, and la-
bourers, and may be estimated, inclusive of a
-company of soldiers which is always stationed
there, at about 1200 souls.

There are two fairs held half yearly, one in
March, and the other in September: they were
instituted about five years since by the present
governor, and already begin to be very numerously
and respectably attended. There is a school in
this town for the education and civilization of the
aborigines of the c6untry ; it was founded by the
present governor three years since, and by the
last accounts from the colony it contained 18
native children, who had been voluntarily placed
there by their parents, and were making equal

237

progress in their studies with European children
of the same age.

WINDSOR.

The town of Windsor is 35 miles from Sydney,
and is situated near the confluence of the South
creek with the river Hawkesbury. It stands on a
hill whose elevation is about 100 feet above the
level of the river at low-water. The public build-
ings are a church, government house, hospital, bar-
racks, court-house, store-house, and gaol, nore of
which are worthy notice : the inn lately established
by Mr. Fitzgerald is by far the best building in the
town, and may be pronounced, upon the whole,
the most splendid establishment of the kind in
the colony.

The bulk of the population is composed of
settlers who have farms in the neighbourhood,
and of their servants. There are besides, a few iri-
ferior traders, publicans, and artificers. The town
contains in the whole about 600 inhabitants.

The Hawkesbury here is of considerable size,
and navigable for vessels of 100 tons burthen, for
about four miles above the town ; a little higher
up, it is joined by, or rather is called the Nepean
river, and has several shallows, but with the help
of two or three ferries, it might be rendered
navigable for boats of 12 or 15 tons burthen,
20 miles further. Following the sinuosities of
the river, the distance of Windsor from the sea is

*iji

about 140 miles, whereas in a straight line it is
not more than 35 ; the rise of the tide is about
four feet, and the water is fresh for 40 mOes
below the town.

Land is about 10 per cent, higher than at Parra-
matta, and is advancing rapidly in price. This
circumstance is chiefly attributable to the small
quantity of land that is to be had perfectly free
from the reach of the inundations to which the
Hawkesbury is so frequently subject. These in-
undations often rise 70 or 80 feet above low- water
mark, and in the instance of what is still called
" the great flood" attained an elevation of . 93
feet. The chaos of confusion and distress that
presents itself on these occasions cannot be easily
conceived by any one who has not been a witness
of its horrors. An immense expanse of water, of
which the eye cannot in many directions discover
the limits, every where interspersed with growing
timber, and crowded with poultry, pigs, horses,
cattle, stacks, and houses, having frequently
men, women, and children, clinging to them for
protection, and shrieking out in an agony of despair
for assistance : such are the principal objects by
which these scenes of death and devastation are
characterized. These inundations are not periodical,
but they most generally happen in the month of
March. Within the last two years there have
been no fewer than four of them, one of which
was nearly as high as the great flood. In the six

upon an a\

239

years preceding, there had not been one. Since
the establishment of the colony they have happened^
upon an average, about once in three years.

LIVERPOOL.

The town of Liverpool is situated on the banks
of George's river, at the distance of 18 miles
from Sydney. It was founded by governor Mac-
quarie, and is now of about six years standing.
Its population may amount to about 200, and is
composed of a small detachment of military, of
cultivators, and a few artificers, traders, publicans,^
and labourers. The public buildings are a church,
a school-house, and stores for the reception and
issue of provisions to such of the settlers in the
adjacent distncts as are victualled at the expense
of the government; these buildings, however, as
might naturally be expected from the very recent
establishment of this town, are but little superior
in their appearance to the rude dwellings of its
inhabitants.

The river is about half the size of the Hawkes-
bury, and is navigable for boats of J80 tons
burden, as high up as the town. It empties itself
into Botany Bay, which is about 14 miles broad,
to the southward of the head of Port Jackson. It
is subject to the same sort of inundations as the
Hawkesbury ; but they are not in general of so
violent and destructive a nature. The tide rises
about the same height as in that river, and the

240

current is nearly of the same velocity. Land
near the town is as yet of very trifling value, and
a lease may be obtained by any free person from
the government on the simple condition of erecting
a house on it.

Society is upon a much better footing through-
out the colony in general than might naturally be
imagined, considering the ingredients of which it
is composed. In Sydney, the civil and military
officers, with their families, form a circle at once
select and extended, without including the nu-
merous highly respectable families of merchants
and settlers who reside there : generally speaking,
the state of society in these settlements is much
the same as among an equal population in the
country parts of this kingdom. Of the number
of respectable persons that they contain some
estimate may be formed, if we refer to the parties
which are given on particular days at the govern-
ment house. It appears from the Sydney Gazette
of the 24th January, 1818, that l60 ladies and
gentlemen were present at a ball and supper,
which was given there on the 18th of that month,
in celebration of her late Majesty's birthday.

There are at present no public amusements in
this colony ; many years since there was a theatre,
and more latterly annual races : but it was found
that the society was not sufficiently mature for
ruch establishments. Dinner and supper parties
are very frequent in Sydney j and it generally

241

happens that a few subscription balls take place
in the course of the year. Upon the whole, it
may be safely asserted, that the natural disposition
of the people to sociability has not only been in no
wise impaired by their change of scene, but that
all classes of the colonists are more hospitable
than persons of similar means in this country.

There are Jive Courts in this colony,, viz. the
Court of Admiralty, the Court of Criminal Judica-
ture, the Governor's Court, the Supreme Court, and
the High Court of Appeals. The Court of Vice Ad-
miralty consists of the Judge Advocate, and takes
cognizance of all such matters of dispute, &c. as
arise upon the high seas. The Court of Criminal
Judicature consists of the Judge Advocate, and
six of his Majesty's officers, naval or military.

The governor's court consists of the Judge Ad-
vocate, and two inhabitants, and takes cognizance
of all pleas where the amount sued for does not
exceed 50/. sterling J and from its decision there h
no appeal.

The Supreme Court is composed of the Judge
of this court, and two magistrates, and its jurisdic-
tion extends to all pleas exceeding 50/. sterling.
Appeals lie to the High Court of Appeals.

This latter court is presided by the governor
himself, assisted by the Judge Advocate, and its
decisions are final where the amount does not
exceed 8000/. j but where the sum exceeds that
amount, an appeal lies to the king in council.

S4S

These courts regulate their decisions by ihe
law of England, and take no notice whatever of
the laws and regulations which have been made
at various times by the local government: the •
enforcement of these is left entirely to the ma-
gistracy, who assemble weekly in the different
towns throughout the colony.

The roads and bridges which have been made in
several parts of the colony are truly surprising ; all
these are either the work of, or have been improved
by the present governor ; who has even caused a
road to be constructed over the western moun-
tains as far as the depot at Bathurst Plains, which
is upwards of 180 milgs from Sydney. The
colonists, therefore, are now provided with every
facility for the conveyance of their produce to
market, a circumstance which cannot fail to have
the most beneficial influence on the progress of
agriculture. To keep these roads in repair, toll-
gates are established on the principal ones, and
were let, in 1817, for 25?/.

The military force stationed in the colony con-
sists of seven companies of the 48th regiment, and
the Royal Veteran company; which form, together,
an effective body of about 700 firelocks. These
have to garrison the two principal settlements at
Van Diemen's, to provide a company at the Coal
River, and to furnish parties for the various towns
and out-posts J so that very few remain at head-
quarters. The colony is consequently in need of
a further woesiion of military strength.

S4d

The climate of the colony, particularly in the
inland districts, is highly salubrious, although the
heats in summer are sometimes excessive, the
thermometer frequently rising in the shade to
90 and even to 100 degrees and upwards of
Fahrenheit. This, however, happens only during
the hot winds ; and those do not prevail, upon an
average, more than eight or ten days in the year.
The mean heat during the three summer months,
December, January, and February, is about 80°
at noon : this, it must be admitted, is a degree of
heat that would be highly oppressive to Europeans,
were it not that the sea breeze sets in regularly
about nine o'clock in the morning, and blows
with considerable force from the N. E. till about
six or seven o'clock in the evening: it is suc-
ceeded, during the night, by the land breeze, from
the mountains, which varies from W. S. W. to W.
In very hot days, the sea breeze often veers round
to the north, and blows a gale. In this case it
continues with great violence frequently for a day
or two, and is then succeeded, not by the regular
land breeze, but by a cold, southerly squall. The
hot winds blow from the N. W. and doubtless
imbibe their heat from the immense tract of
country which they traverse. While they prevail,
the sea and land breezes entirely cease. They
seldom, however, continue for more than two days
at a time, and are always superseded by a cold,
southerly gale, generally accompanied with rain i
the thermometer then sinks sometimes as low as

11 2

(50», and a variation of temperature of from 80° to
40° takes place in half an hour. During these three
months violent storms of thunder and lightning are
very frequent ; and the heavy falls of rain which
take place on these occasions tend considerably
to refresh the country, of which the verdure, in
all but low, moist situations, entirely disappears.
At this season the most unpleasant part of the
day is the interval which elapses between the
cessation of the land and the commencement of
the sea breeze. This happens generally between
six and eight o'clock in the morning, when the
thermometer is, upon an average, at about 72°.
During this interval, the sea is as smooth as glass,
and not a zephyr is found to disport even among
the topmost boughs of the loftiest trees.

The three autumn months are March, April,
and May. The weather in March is generally
very unsettled : this month, in fact, may be con-
sidered the rainy season, and has been more fertile
in floods than any other of the year. The thermo-
meter varies during the day about 15°, being at
day-light as low as 55° to 60°, and at noon as
high as from 70° to 75°. The sea and land breezes
at this time become very feeble, although they
occasionally prevail during the whole year. The
usual winds, from the end of March to the be-
ginning of September, are from S. to S. W.

The weather in the commencement of April is
frequently showery, but towards the middle, it
gradually becomes more settled, and towards the

conclusion, perfectly clear and serene. The ther-
mometer, at the beginning of the month, varies
from 72" to 74" at noon, and from the middle to
the end, gradually declines to 66% and sometimes
to 60°, In the mornings it is as low as 52°, and
fires become in consequence general throughout
the colony.

The weather in the month of May is truly de-
lightful. The atmosphere is perfectly cloudless,
and the mornings and evenings become with the
advance of the month more chilly, and render a
good fire a highly comfortable and cheering guest.
Even during the middle of the day the most
violent exercise may be taken without incon-
venience. The thermometer at sun-rise is under
50', and seldom above 60° at noon.

The three winter months are June, July, and
August: during this interval, the mornings .and
evenings are very chilly, and the nights ex.
cessively cold. Hoar frosts are frequent, and
become more severe the farther you advance into
the interior. Ice, half an inch thick, is found at
the distance of 20 miles from the coast. Very
little rain falls at this season ; but the dews are
very i>.eavy, when it does not freeze, and tend
considerably to preserve the young crops from
the effects of drought. Fogs, too, are frequent and
dense, in low damp situations^ and on the banks
of the rivers. The mean temperature at day-light
is from 40° to 50°, and at noon from 55° to 60°.
The spring months are September, October,

'i4({

and November. In the beginning of September
the fbg.H still continue, the nights are cold, but
the days are clear and pleasant. Towards the
close of this month, the cold begins very sensibly
to moderate j light showers occasionally prevail,
accompanied with thunder ami lightning. The
thermometer, at the beginning of the month, is
seldom above 60° at noon, but towards the end
frequently rises to 70".

In October tliere are also occasional sliowers,
but the weather, upon the whole, is clear and
pleasant. The duys gradually become warmer,
and the blighting north-west winds are to be
apprehended. The sea and lajid breezes again
resume their full sway ; the thermometer at sun-
rise varies from ^O'' to (iCf, and at noon is fre-
quently u]) to 80". In November the weather
may be again called hot; dry parching winds
prevail as the motith advances, and scpaalls of
thunder and lightning, with rain, or hail. The
tliermometer at duy-light is seldom under 05% and
frequently at noon rises to 80", 84'",. and even 90".

Such is the temperature throughout the year at
Port Jackson. In the inland districts, to the east-
ward of the mountains, the thermometer is, upon an
average,.'?" lower in the morning, and the same num-
ber ofdegrees higiierat noon, throughout the winter
season j but during the summer months it is 5"
higher at all hours of the day. On the moun-
tains themselves, and in the country to the west-
ward of them, the climate, iu consequence of tilieir

^47

superior elevation, is much more temperate j heavy
fails of* snow take place during the winter, and
remain sometimes for many days on the summits
of the most lofly hills j but in the vallies the snow
immediately dissolves.

From the foregoing account it will be seen
that the climate of the colony is, upon the whole,
highly salubrious and delightful. If the summers
are occasionally too hot for the European consti-
tution, it will be remembered that the extreme
heats are but of short duration, and that the sea
and land breezes, which prevail at this season in
an almost uninterrupted succession, moderate the
temperature so effectually, that even new comers
are but little incommoded by it, and the old re-
sidents experience no inconvenience from it what-
ever.

Abdominal and pulmonic complaints are the
two most prevalent diseases. The abdominal com-
plaints are confined principally to dysentery: this
disorder is most common among the poorer classes
and new comevs. In these, it is generally con-
nected with thf; scurvy J and in both cases it is, for
the most part, greatly aggravated by the exces-
sive use of spirituous liquors, to which the mas*
of the colonists are unfortunately addicted.

The pulmonic affections are generally contracted
at an e? rly period by the youth of both sexes, and
are o<:casioned by the great and sudden variations
of temperature ; they are nut, however, accom*
panied with that inflammatory action which dis-

'Am

248

tinguishes them in this country; but proceed
slowly and gradually, till, from neglect, they ter-
minate in phthisis. They are said to bear a strong
affinity to the complaint of the same nature which
prevails at the island of Madeira ; and it is re-
markable, that in both these colonies a change of
air affords the only chance of restoration to the
natives, whereas foreigners, labouring under phthi-
sis, upon their arrival in either of these places,
find almost instantaneous relief.

There are no infantile diseases whatever ; the
measles, hooping-cough, and small-pox, are en-
tirely unknown. The latter disease was intro-
duced among the natives before the foundation of
the colony, and committed dreadful havoc, but
its recurrence has been guarded against by vac-
cination.

The colony of New South Wales possesses every
variety of soil, from the sandy heath, and the cold
hungry clay, to the fertile loam, and the deep
vegetable mould. For the distance of five or six
miles from the coast, the land is in general ex-
tremely barren, being a poor hungry sand, thickly
studded with rocks, and principally covered with
a variety of beautiful heaths.

Beyond this barren waste, which thus forms a
girdle to the coast, the country suddenly begins
to improve. The soil changes to a thin layer of
vegetable mould, resting on a stratum of yellow
clay, which is again supported by a deep bed of
schistus. The trees of the forest are here of the

249

most stately dimensions, and consist of gums,
iron barks, and the beef wood, or as it is generally
termed, the forest oak. The loftiest trees in this
country, if placed alongside the two former spe-
cies, would appear as pigmies. The forest is ex-
tremely thick, but there is little or no under-
wood ; a poor, sour grass, which is too effectually
shaded from the rays of the sun to possess any
nutritive and fattening properties, shoots up in
the intervals. This description of country, with
a few exceptions, which deserve not to be parti-
cularly noticed, forms another girdle of about 10
miles in breadth, so that, generally speaking, the
colony for about 16 miles into the interior may be
said to possess a soil which has naturally no claim
to fertility, and will require all the skill and in-
dustry of its owners to render it even tolerably
productive.

At this distance, however, the aspect of the
country begins rapidly to improve; the forest is
less thick, and the trees in general are of another
description, such as the stringy barks, blue gums,
and box trees. When you have advanced about
four miles farther into the interior, you ai'e at
length gratified with the appearance of a country
truly beautiful; an endless variety of hill and
dale, clothed in the most luxuriant herbage, and
covered witli bleating flocks and lowing herds, at
length indicate that you are in regions fit to be
inhabited by civilized man. The soil has no
longer the stamp of barrenness ; a rich loam, rest-

•-*«»«M#^'

250

iiig* on: a^substnvtnm of fat red< cky, severdit feet m
depth, 18 fbund even on the tops of the highest
hilJb. The timber, strange as it may appear, is
of inferior size, though still of the same nature^
i; e. blue gum, box, and stringy bark. There is
no underwood, and the number of trees upon an
acre seldom exceed SO ; they are, in fact, so thin,
that a person may gallop without difficulty in every
direction. Coursing the kangaroo is the favourite
amusement c^ the colonists, who generally pursue
this animal at full speed on horseback, and fre-
quently manage, notwithstaniding its extraordinary
swiftness, to be in at the death, so trifling are the
impediments occasioned by the fbrest.^

The above description may be applied with to-
lerab!s accuracy to the whole tract of country
which lies between this space and tlie Nepeari
River. The plains, however, on the banks of this
river, which are in many places of considerable
extent, are of far greater fertility, being a rich
vegetable mould, many feet in depth, and have
without doubt been gradually formed by deposi-
tions from it during the periods of its inundations.
These plains gradually enlarge themselves until
you arrive at the junction of the Nepean with the
Hawkesbury, on each side of which they are com-
monly from a mile to a mile and a half in breadth :
the banks of this latter river are of still greater
fertility than those of the former, and may vie in
this respect with the far-famed banks of the Nile.
The same acre of land here has been known to

produce, in the course of one year, 50^ Isabels of
wheat, and 100 of maize. The settlers hav^ never
any occasion for manure, since the slimy deposi-
tions from the river eflfectuajly counteract the ex-
haustion that would otherwise be produced by in-
cessant crops. The timber on the banks «f these
rivers is for the most part apple-tree, which i* very
beautiful, and bears, in its foliage and shape, a
striking resemblance to the oak of this country :
its wood, however, is of no value except for firing,
and for the immense quantity of pot-ash which
might be made from it. The blue gum, and
stringy bark, are also very common on these
flooded lands, and of the very best description.
The banks of the Hawkesbury formerly produced
cedar, but it has long since entirely disappeared.

The banks of these rivers, and indeed the whole
tract of country (generally speaking) which have
been described, with the exception of the barren
waste in the vicinity of the coast, are, to use the
colonial term, located, i. e. either granted to in-
dividuals, or attached as commons to the culti-
vated districts.

The tmapproprtated tracts of land in the vicinity
of Port Jackson, best adapted for colonization, ar^
first, that designated the "Cow Pastures :*' this
tract of land has hitherto been reserved fop the
use of the government wild cattle, but as these
animals have now totally disappeared, it is pro-
bable the land will be located; it is about 30 miles
fi:om Sydney, bounded on the east by thft river

.^^1

2.52

Nepean, and on the west by the Blue Mountains j
it contains about 100,000 acres of good land, a
considerable portion of which is flooded, and equal
to any on the banks of the Hawkesbury.

The next considerable tract of unappropriated
land is the district called the "Five Islands:" it
commences at the distance of about 40 miles to
the southward of Sydney, and extends to Shoal
Haven River, which forms its southern boundary :
the ocean is its eastern boundary, and a branch
of the Blue Mountains forms the northern and
western boundaries : the only road to it, at pre-
sent known, is down a pass so remarkably steep,
that, unless a better be discovered, the communi-
cation betwtf 1^ it and the capital by land will always
be difficult and dangerous for waggons. This
circumstance is a material counterpoise to its ex-
traordinary fertility, and is the reason why it is at
present unoccupied by any but large stockholders.
Those parts, however, which are situated near
Shoal Haven River, are highly eligible for agri-
cultural purposes, since this river is navigable, for
about 20 mil"'? into the country, for vessels of 70
or 80 tons burden j a circumstance which holds
out to future colonists the greatest facilities for
the cheap and expeditious conveyance of their
produce to market. There are several streams in
different parts of this district, which issue from
the mountain behind, and afford an abundant
supply of pure water. In many places there are
large prairies of unparalleled richness, entirely

S53

free from timber, and consequently prepared by
the hand of nature for the immediate reception of
the plough-share. These advantages, combined
with its proximity to Sydney, have already began
to attract the tide of colonization to it, and will
no doubt render it in a few years one of the most
populous, productive, and valuable, of all the dis-
tricts. The soil is in general a deep, fat, vegetable
mould ; and the land on the banks of the Shoal
Haven River possesses equal fertility with the
banks of the Hawkesbury.

The surface of the country is thinly timbered,
with the exception of the mountain which bounds
it to the northward and westward; this is covered
with a thick brush, but it is nevertheless extremely
fertile up to the very summit, and peculiarly
adapted, both from its eastern aspect and mild
climate, fL r the cultivation of the vine. This large
tract of country was only discovered about four
years since, and has not yet been surveyed, its
extent, therefore, is not precisely known, but,
without doubt, contains several hundred thousand
acres, including the banks of the Shoal Haven
River ; these produce a great abundance of fine
cedar and other valuable timber, for which there
is an extensive and increasing demand at Port
Jackson.

The Coal River is the next tract of unappro-
priated land. The town of Newcastle is situated
at the mouth of this river, and is about 60 miles

«54

to the northward of Port Jackson. Its population,
by the last census, was 550 souls ; these, with the
exception of a few free settlers on the upper
banks of this river, amounting with their families
to about 30 souls, and about 50 troops, are all in-
corrigible offenders, who have been convicted in
the colony, and re-transported to this place, where
they are worked in chains from sunrise to sunset,
and profitably employed in burning lime, and pro-
curing coals and timber, as well for carrying on
the public works at Port Jackson, as for the pri-
vate use of individuals, who pay the government
stipulated prices for these different articles. This
settlement was, in fact, established with the two-
fold view of supplying the public works with these
necessary articles, and providing a separate place
of punishment for all who might be convicted of
crimes in the colonial courts.

The coal mines here are considerably elevated
above the level of tlie sea, and are of the richest
description. The veins are visible on the abrupt
face of the clifl^ which borders the harbour, and
are worked by adits or openings, which serve both
to carry off the water, and to wheel away the
coals. The quantity procured in this easy way is
very great, and might be i?Kreased to any extent;
so much more coals, indeed, are thus obtained than
are required for the purposes of the government,
that they are glad to dispose of them to all per-
sons who are willing to purchase, requiring in re-
turn a duty of 2s, 6d, per ton, for such as are in-

955

leaded for home consumption, and 6s, for such as
are for exportation.

The lime procured at this settlement is made
from oyster shells, which are found in prodigious
abundance; these shells lie close to the banks of
the river, in beds of amazing size and depth $
how they came there has long been a matter of
surprise and speculation to the colonists : the
beds are generally fiv^ or six feet above high
water mark. The process of making the lime is
extremely simple and expeditious ; the shells are
first dug up and sifted, and then piled over large
heaps of diy wood, which are set fire to, and
speedily convert the superincumbent mass into
excellent lime: when thus made, it is shipped
for Sydney, and sold there at one shilling per
bushel.

The timber procured on the banks of this river
is chiefly cedar and rose-wood; the cedar, however,
is becoming scarce, in consequence of the im-
mense quantities that have been already cut down,
and cannot be any longer obtained without going
at least 150 miles up the river; at this distance,
however, it is still to be had in considerable
abundance, and is easily floated down to the town
in rafts. The government dispose of this wood
in the same manner as the coals, at the price of
3/. for each thousand square feet, intended for
home consumption, and 61. for the same quantity
if exported.

The harbour at the mouth of this river is tole-

256

rably secure and spacious, and contains sufficient
depth of water for vessels of 300 tons burden ;
the river itself, however, is only navigable for
small craft of 30 or 40 tons, and this only for
about 50 mile.» above the town. This river has
three brandies, two of which are navigable for
boats for about 120 miles, and the other for 200
miles. The banks of all these branches are liable
to inundations equrlly terri^/* ^^ '^^h those at the
Hawkesbury, and from the same cause, viz. the
vicinity of the Blue Mountains. The low lands
within the reach of these inundations are, if possi-
ble, of still greater exuberancy than the banks of
the Hawkesbury and Nepean, and of four times
the extent. The high land is very thinly studded
with timber, and equal, for all the purposes of agri-
culture and grazing, to the best districts of Port
Jackson. The climate, too, is equally salubrious,
and it is generally believed that the summer heats
are sufficient for the production of cotton*: in
fact, under every point of view, this district con-
tains the strongest inducements to colonization.
It possesses a navigable river, by which its pro-
duce may be conveyed to market at a moderate
expense : it surpasses Port Jackson in the general
fertility of its soil, and at least rivals it in the sa-
lubrity of its climate : it contains in the greatest

• There can be little doubt of this. In America, cotton is par-
tially grown as high a.s 39" north latitude, and generally south
of latitude 36° north, where the climate is much colder than at
Port Jackson.

«fl7

abundance, coal, lime, and many varieties of va-
luable timber which are not found elsewhere, and
promise to becor le articles of considerable export.
The country westward qf the Blue Mountains
ranks next in contiguity to Sydney, and claims
pre-eminence, not so much from any superiority
of soil in those parts of it which have been ex-
plored, as from its amazing extent, and great di-
versity of climate. These mountains, where the
road has been made over them, are 58 miles in
breadth ; and as ae distance from Sydney to Emu
Ford, at which place this road may be said to
commence, is 40 miles, the beginning of the vast
tract of country to the westward of them is about
98 miles distant from the capital.

The road which thus traverses these mountains
is by no means difficult for waggons, until you
arrive at the pass which forms the descent into
the low country; here it is both steep and danger-
ous ; carts and waggons, however, continually go
up and down.

The elevation of these mountains above the
level of the sea is reckoned to be between 3 and
4000 feet; for the first 10 or 12 miles they are
tolerably well clothed with timber, and produce
occasionally some middling pasture ; but beyond
this they are exr ssively barren. To the west-
ward of these mountains the country abounds with
the richest herbage, and is upon the whole tole-
rably well supplied with running water. In the

-«w«1

258

immediate vicinity of them there is a profusioii of

rivulets.

This large and fertile tract of country is
in general perfectly free from underwood, and
in many places is without any timber at all.
Bathurst Plains, for instance, where there is a
commandant, a military dep6t, and some few set-
tiers established, have been found, by actual ad-
measurement, to contain upwards of 60,000 acresi
upon which there is scarcely a tree. The great
distance of this tract of country, as well as the
difficulty of communicating with the capital, will
prevent it from assuming an agricultural charac*
ter: by way, however, of set-off against the mani-
fest superiority which the districts to the east-
ward of the mountains possess, in this respect,
over the country to the westward of them, this
latter is much better adapted for all the purposes
of grazing and rearing cattle ; the herbage is
sweeter, and more nutritive, and there is an un-
limited range for stock, without any fear of tres-
passing. There is, besides, for the first 200 miles,
a constant succession of hill and dale, admirably
suited for the pasture of sheep, the wool of which
will without doubt eventually become the princi-
pal export of this colony, and may be conveyed
across these mountains at an inconsiderable ex-
pense. A river of some magnitude has lately
been discovered in this western territory by Mr.
Oxley, the surveyor-general of the colony. A de^

250

ficiency of me&m prevented this gentleman from
following up his discovery to any distance ; but
when he quitted the river its course was northerly,
and in latitude sr 48' south, and 148« 58' east Ion-
gitude, running through a beautiful country; its
breadth about 250 yards, and of sufficient depth
to float a line of battle ship. Should this river
empty itself on the western coast of New Holland,
as imagined, a distance of at least 2000 miles,'
some idea may be formed of its probable mJ-
nitude. ^

System of Agriculture.
The system of agriculture pursued in this co-
lony does not materially differ from that which
prevails in this country. During the earlier stages
of these settlements, the hoe husbandry was a ne-
cessary evil J but the great increase in the stock of
horses and cattle has at last almost completely
superseded it; and the plough husbandly is now.
and has been for many years past, in general prac!
tice. In new lands, indeed, the hoe is stiU un-
avoidably used during the first year of their cul-
tivation, on account of the numerous roots and
other impediments to the plough, with which lands
m a state of nature invariably abound. Until the
year 1803, plough husbandi'y was confined to a
few of the richest cultivators, from the exorbitant
price of cattle. At that period, however, the go-
vernment herds had so considerably multiplied,
that governor King recommended the adoption of

s 3

260

the plough in general orders, and tendered oxen
at 28/. per head, to be paid either in produce or
in money, at the end of three years, to all such
settlers as were inclined to purchase them* This
custom has been followed by all his successors;
but as no abatement has been made in the price,
and they can be obtained elsewhere at one-third
of the amount, such only of the colonists now
avail themselves of this indulgence as have no
ready means of purchase, and are allured by the
length of credit.

Wheat, maize, barley, oats, and rye, are all
grown in this colony; but the two former are most
cultivated. The climate appears to be too warm
for the common species of barley and oats ; but
the poorer soils produce them of a tolerably
good quality. The skinless barley, or as it is
termed by some the Siberian wboat, arrives at
very great perfection, and is in every respect much
superior to the common species of barley; but the
culture of this grain is limited to the demand
which is created for it by the colonial breweries;
the Indian corn, or maize, being much better
adapted for the food of horses, oxen, pigs, and
poultry; the produce too is much more abundant
than that of barley and oats, and the season for
planting it being two months later than for any
other sort of grain, the settler has every motive
for giving it the preference. Wheat may be sown
any time from February to July, and even 60 late
as August, if that month happen to be moist ; but

261

the best months are April, May, and June ; the
creeping wheat, however, may be sown in the
commencement of February, and should it become
too rank, it can easily be kept down by sheep,
which are found to do this sort of wheat no manner
of injury. To the farmer, therefore, who keeps
large flocks of sheep, the cultivation of the creep-
ing wheat is highly advantageous, since, in addi-
tion to its yielding as great a crop as any other
species of wheat, it supersedes the necessity of
growing turnips, or other artificial food for the
support of his stock during the severity of the
winter, when the natural grasses become scanty and
parched up with frost. The red and white lam-
mas, and the Cape or bearded wheat, are the spe-
cies generally cultivated. June is the best month
for sowing barley and oats j but they may be sown
till the middle of August, with a fair prospect of a
good crop. Indian corn, or maize, may be planted
from the end of September to the middle of De-
cember; but October is the best month : it is,
however, a very common practice among the
settlers on the fertile banks of the Hawkesbury
and Nepean to plant what is called stubble corn,
that is, to plant it among the wheat, barley, and
oat stubbles, as soon as the harvest is over, v/ith-
out ploughing or breaking up the ground : maize
is frequently planted in this way until the middle
of January, and if the season proves sufficiently
moist, yields a very abundant crop. The usual
manner of planting it is in holes about six feet

: : M

262

apart; five grains are generally put in each of these
holes J the average produce of this grain, on rich
flooded lands, is from 80 to 100 bushels per acre.
Wheat in the same situations yields from 30 to 40
bushels, and barley and oats about 50 bushels an
acre. On forest lands, however, the crops are not
so productive, unless the ground be well manured;
but the wheat, barley, and oats, grown on this
land, are much heavier and superior in quality.
The difference of the weight of wheat grown in
forest and flooded lands is, upon an average, not
less than eight pounds per bushel. The former
sort weighing 64 pounds, and the latter only 56
pounds.

The wheat harvest commences partially about
the middle of November, and is generally over by
Ouistmas. The maize, however, is not ripe until
the end of March, and the gathering is not com-
plete throughout the colony before the end of

May.

Potatoes, cabbages, carrots, parsnips, turnips,
peascj beans, cauliflowers, broccoli, asparagus, let-
tuces, onions, and, in fact, every species of vege-
tables known in this country, are produced in the
colony; many of them attain a much superior de-
gree of perfection, but a few also degenerate. To
the former class belong the cauliflower andbroccoli,
and the different varieties of the pea ; to the latter
the bean and potatoe. For the bean in particular
the climate appears too hot, and it is only to be
obtained in the stiffest clays and the dampest si-

263

tuations. The potatoe is produced on all soils in
the greatest abundance, but the quality is not
nearly as good as it is in this country : in this re-
spect, however, much depends upon the nature of
the soil. In stiff clays the potatoes are invariably
watery and waxy, but in light sands and loams
they are tolerably dry and mealy. Manure also
deteriorates their quahty, and in general they are
best when grown on new lands. Potatoes are in
consequence very commonly planted in the fields
as a first crop, and are found to pulverize land,
just brought from a state of nature into cultiva-
tion, more than any other root. An abundant
crop of wheat, barley, or oats, may be safely cal-
culated to succeed them, more particularly if a
light covering of manure be applied at the time
of their planting.

The colony is justly famed for the goodness and
variety of its fruits : peaches, apricots, nectarines,
oranges, grapes, pears, plums, figs, pomegranates,
raspberries, strawberries, and melons of all sorts,
attain the highest degree of maturity in the open
air; and even the pine-apple may be produced
merely by the aid of the common forcing glass.
The climate, however, of Port Jackson is not al-
together congenial to the growth of the apple,
currant, and gooseberry, although the whole of
these fruits are produced there, and the apple, in
particular, in very great abundance ; but it is de-
cidedly inferior to the apple of thi!< country: these
fruits, however, arrive at tiie greatest perfection

TM^fit,

S64>

in every part of Van Diemen's Island; and as the
climate of the country to ths westward of the
Blue Mountains is equally cold, they will, without
doubt, attain there an equal degree of perfection.
Of all the fruits which are thus enumerated as
being produced in this colony, the peach is the
most abundant and the most useful. The dif-
ferent varieties which have been already intro-
duced succeed one another in uninterrupted suc-
cession from the middle of November to the latter
end of March, thus filling up an interval of more
than four months, and affording a wholesome and
nutritious article of food during one-third of the
year. This fruit ^rows spontaneously in every
situation, on the richest soils as on the most bar-
ren; and its growth is so rapid, that if you plant
a stone, it wiU in three years afterwards bear an
abundant crop. Peaches are in consequence so
pl^itiful throughout the colony, that they are
every where given as food to hogs ; and when
thrown into heaps, and allowed to undergo a pro-
per degree of fermentation, are found to fatten
them very rapidly. Cyder also is made in great
quantities from this fruit, and when of sufficient
age, affords a very pleasant and wholesome bever-
age ; the lees, too, after extraction of the juice,
possess the same fattening properties, and are
equally calculated as food for hogs.

Rearing of Cattle, &c.
The system of rearing and fattening stock in

265

this colony is simple and economical. Horses, in
consequence of their rambling nature, arc almost
invariably kept in enclosures. In the districts
immediately contiguous to Port Jackson, horned
cattle are followed by a herdsman during the day,
in order to prevent them from trespassing on the
numerous uninclosed tracts of land that are in a
state of tillage, and they are confined during the
night in yards or paddocks.

In the remoter districts, however, which are
altogether devoid of cultivation, horned cattle are
subject to no such restraints, but are permitted to
range about the country at all times : the herds
too are generally larger, and although a herdsman
is still required, as well to prevent them from
separating into straggling parties, as to protect
them from committing depredations, the expense
of keeping them in this manner is comparatively
trifling, and the advantages of allowing them this
uncontrolled liberty to range very great, since
they are found during the heat of summer to feed
more in the night than in the day : this, therefore,
is the system which the great stockholders in-
variably pursue. Few of them possess sufficient
land for the support of their cattle ; and as their
estates too, however remote the situation in wLich
they may have been selected, have for the most
part become surrounded by small cultivators, who
seldom or never inclose tlieir crops, they generally
recede with their her d.} from the approach of co-
lonization, and form new establishments, where

the liability to trespass does not exist; they thus
become the gradual explorers of the country, and
it is to their efforts to avoid the contact of agri-
culture that the discovery of the best districts
yet known in tlie colony is ascribable.
- "The management of sheep is in some respects
different ; they are never permitted to roam during
the night, on account of the native dog, which is
a great enemy to tliem, and sometimes during the
4ay makes great ravages among them, even under
tlie eye of the shepherd. In every part of the
country, therefore, they are kept by night either
in folds or yards : in the former case, the shepherd
gleeps in a small moveable box, which is shifted
with tlie tbldn, and with his faithful dog affords
a sufficient protection for his flock against the
attempts of these midnight depredators. In the
latter, the paling of the yard is made so high that
the native dog cannot surmount it.

The natural grasses of the colony are sufficiently
good and nutritious at all seasons of the year fur
the support of every description of stock, where
there is an adequate tract of country for them to
range over. But, in consequence of the complete
occupation of the districts which are in the more
immediate vicinity of Port Jackson, and from the
settlers in general possessing more stock than their
lands are capable of maintaining, the raising of
artificial food for the winter months has of late
years become very general among such of them
as are unwilling to send their flocks and herds

267

into the uninhabited parts of the interior : it is,
indeed, surprising that so salutary a precaution
has been so long in disuse; since, such is the
luxuriance of the natural grass during the summer,
that it is the general practice, after the seeds
wither away, to set fire to it, and thus impro-
vidently consume what, if mown and made into
hay, would afford the farmer a sufficiency of
nutritious food for his stock during the winter.

The custom of setting fire to the grass is most
prevalent during the months of August and
January, that is, just before the commencement
of spring and autumn, when vegetation is on the
eve of starting from the slumber which it has
experienced alike during the ejftremes of the
winter's cold as of the summer's heat. If a fall
of rain happily succeed these fires, the country
soon presents the appearance of a field of young
wheat, and, however repugnant this practice may
appear to an English farmer, it is absolutely un-
avoidable in those districts which are not suf-
ficiently stocked ; since cattle of every descrip-
tion refuse to taste the grass the moment it
becomes withered.

The artificial food principally cultivated in the
colony are turnips, tares, and Cape barley, and
for those settlers in particular who have flocks of
breeding sheep, the cultivation of them is highly
necessary, and contributes materially to the growth
and strength of the lambs. On those also who

268

keep dairies, this practice of raising artificial food
is equally incumbent, the natural grasses being
insufficient to keep milch cows in good heart during
the winter, when there is the greatest demand for
butter. Good meat, too, is then to be had with
difficulty ; there cannot, therefore, be any doubt
that it would answer the purposes even of the
grazier to have recourse to artificial means of
fattening his stock at that season, since it is then
that he would be enabled to obtain the readiest
and highest price for his fat cattle.

Price of Cattle, &c.

The price of all manner of stock is extremely
low, considering the short period which has elapsed
since the foundation of the colony. A very good
horse for the cart or plough may be had at from
10/. to 15/., and a better saddle or gig horse, from
20/. to 30/., than could be obtained in this country
for double the money. Very good milch cows
may be bought at from 51. to 10/. ; working oxen
for about the same price j and fine young breeding
ewes at from 1/. to 3/., according to the quality
of their fleece. It frequently happens, particularly
at sales by public auction, that stock may be
purchased at one-half, or even one-third, of the
above prices, and there is every probability that
their value will be still less before the expiration
of 10 years, as the following account will show
their rapid increase :

269
Number of stock in New South Wales in

Yeari. Horse*. Honed cattle. Sheep. Hoga.

1800 163 1024 6124

18IS 1891 31,5IS 65J2I

1«17 3072 44,753 170,420 17,840

Price of Labour.

The price of agricultural labour is at present
very low ; but the wages of artificers, particularly
of such as are most useful in infant societies, are
considerably higher ; a circumstance which is prin-
cipally to be attributed to the practice of select-
ing from among the convicts all the best mechanics
for the government works. Carpenters, stone-
masons, bricklayers, wheel and plough-wrights,
blacksmiths, coopers, harness-makers, sawyers,
shoe-makers, cabinet-makers, and in fact all the
most useful descriptions of handicrafts, are con-
sequently in great demand, and can easily earn
from eight to ten shillings per day.

The price of land is entirely regulated by its
situation and quality. So long as four years
back, 150 acres of very indifferent land, about
3-4ths of a mile from Sydney, were sold in lots of
12 acres each, and averaged 14/. per acre. This,
however, is the highest price that has yet been
given for land not situated in a town. The
general value of unimproved forest land, when it
is not heightened by some advantageous locality,
as proximity to a town or navigable river, cannot
be estimated at more than 5s. per acre. Flooded

ll ,"i!i4tlt

270

land will fetch double that sum. But on the
banks of the Hawkesbury, as far as that river is
navigable, the value of land is considerably greater;
that which is in a state of nature being worth
from 31. to 51. per acre, and that which is in a
state of cultivation, from 8/. to 10/. : the latter
description rents for 20s. or SO*, per acre*.

The price of provisions, particularly of agricul-
tural produce, is subject to great fluctuations, and
will unavoidably continue so, until proper measures
are taken to counteract the calamitous scarcities
at present consequent on the inundations of the
Hawkesbury and Nepeant. In the year 1806,
the epoch of the great flood, the old and new
stacks on the banks of those rivers were all swept
away, and before the commencement of the follow-
ing harvest, wheat and maize attained an equal
value, and were sold at 51. and 61. per bushel.
Even after the last overflow of these rivers, in the
month of March, I8I7, wheat rose, towards the
close of the year, to 81*. per bushel, and maize to
20*., and potatoes to 32*. 6d. per cwt. although a
very considerable supply (about 20,000 bushels)
was immediately furnished from Van Diemen*s

* It appears that upon the arrival of any emigrant of respecta-
bility, he may, by proper application to the governor, procure a
grant of 800 acres : and any man, with the means of commencing
agriculturist, and of good character, may obtain 50 or 100 acres.

t These scarcities will, of course, be partially avoided, when
the lands become cultivated that are beyond the reach of the
inundations.

271

Island. But for t^is speedy and salutary succour
the price of grain would have been very little
short of what it was in the year 1806. The
general price of provisions, wlien the crops have
not suffered from flood or drought, is, wheat, 9*.,
maize, 3.$. 6</., barley, 5s., oats, 45. Qd. per bushel,
and potatoes Qs. per cwt.

The price of meat is not influenced by the
same causes, but , on the contrary, experiencing
a gradual and certain diminution. By the last
accounts, good mutton and beef were to be had
for 6d/., veal for Sc?., and pork for ^d. per lb.
"WTieat was selling in the market at 85. M., oats
at 4^., barley at 5*., maize at 5s, 6d. per bushel ;
potatoes at 8*. per cwt., fowls at 4^. 6d., ducks
at 6s. per couple, geese at 5s., turkies at 7*' 6d.
each, eggs at 2.v, 6d. per dozen, and butter at
2s. 6d. per lb. The price of the best wheaten bread
was fixed by the assize at 5i for the loaf, weigh-
ing Slbs.

This colony already contains extensive manu-
factories of coarse woollen cloths, hats, earthen^
ware, pipes, salt, candles, and soap ; there are
also breweries and tanneries, wheel and plough-
wrights, gig-makers, harness-makers, cabinet-
makers, and indeed all sorts of mechanics and
artificers that could be required in an infant so-
ciety, where objects of utility are naturally in
greater demand than articles of luxury.

The colonists carry on a considerable commerce
with this country, the East Indies, and China;

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WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 873-4503

272

but they have scarcely any article of export to
offer in return for the various commodities sup-
plied by those countries. The money expended
by government for the support of the convicts,
and the pay and subsistence of the civil and mi-
litary establishments, are the main sources from
which they derive the means of procuring those
articles of foreign growth and manufacture which
are indispensable to civUi^ed life. They have,
however, at last a staple export, which is rapidly
increasing, and promises in a few years to suf-
fice for all their wants, and to render them quite
independent of the expenditare of the govern-
ment; this is the fleeces of their flocks, the best
of which are found to combine all the qualities
that constitute the excellence of the Saxon and
Spanish wools. The sheepholders in general have
at length become sensible of the advantage of di-
recting their attention to the improvement of their
flocks. The exportation of this highly valuable
raw material is as yet but very limited ; last year
(1818) it only amounted to 8000/.; but when it is
considered that in 1817 there were 170,420 sheep
in the colony, and that the majority of the sheep-
holders are actively employed in crossing their
flocks with tups of the pure Merino breed, it
may easily be conceived what an extensive ex-
portation of fine wool may be effected in a few
years.

The whole annual income of the colonists in
New Holland cannot be estimated at more than

273

1^,0001 and the following sub-division of it may
be considered as nearly correct : ^

Money expended by the government for the
support of convicts, and the pay and sub-
sistence of officers, &c.

Money expended by shipping '^ot belonging

to the colony *

Various articles of export, such as sed skins,'

on, and sandal wood
Wool grown in the colony
Sundries

«. d.

80,000 0
12,000 0

13,000 0

8000 0

20,000 0

0
0
0

125,000 0 0

about 21.000/. per annum, and are chiefly derived

liquois Tins amount is large for such an infant
CO on,, but ,, i3 ,i,,„^^^, ^^^ ^^^ 1^^ nfant

colonists: one-eighth of it is solely devoted to
the education of youth, and the remaining seve^
eighths are appropriated to various purposes of
.nternal economy, such as the constrLtirand
, repair of roads and bridges, &c. &c.

Tie vine and the olive, tobacco, hemp. flax,
and Unseed are productions to which the c imate
and he sod of this colony are remarkably c^!
ri ""r" ^Z*^'- -"" of tobacco and
iir^d '''"'""^ "'""'^^ "'* »""»*"y

A licence for retailing spirits costs 25/. per an-

.-«^!

^74 '

iium ; one for brewing, 80/. ; one for retailing beer,
51. per annum. Distillation is strictly prohibited.

The number of inhabitants of New South Wales,
on the 27th of November, 1817, was as follows,
(exclusive of the settlement on the Coal river,
containing 550 souls, about 70 of whom were
free) :

Fre« persons.
9757

Soldiers.
610

Convicts.
6297

Total.
16,664

Total number of inhabitants in New South
Wales and Van Diemen*s Island, in November,
18 17, 20,328.

yi Statement of Land in Cultivation, 8(C, on the 27th of No-

vembeft 1817.

Whett.

ACRES.

Maize. Barley. Oatt. I>e)ie8i Pota- Garden 8c Cleared Toinl
Beam. toei. Orchard. Ground! grantet).

18,462 11,714 856 156 204 559 863 47,564 235,000

Emigration.

The manufacturing interests of this colony are

not in a very prosperous condition ; it does not,

therefore, hold out any inducements to persons

of this class ; nor would the situation of the mere

labourer be much improved, unless he had the

means of forming an agricultural establishment :

there is no doubt, however, but that he would be

able to procure work, as he would always have

a preference to those who have been under the

operation of the law. Artizans and mechanics,

275

who are skilled in all works of utility, would, as it
has already been observed, soon acquire an in-
dependence. Any person having the means of
taking out a steam engine of six or eight horse
power, with the requisite machinery for sawing'
boards, would find it answer extremely well. A
timber merchant also might employ his funds very
advantageously by establishing a timber-yard.

A skilful brewer would succeed either at Syd-
ney, or at Hobart Town (Van Diemen's). There
are already several breweries in New South Wales-
but the beer which is made in them is so bad, that
many thousand pounds worth of porter and ale is
annually imported from England. This is in some
measure occasioned by the inferiorifv of the barley
grown at Port Jackson, but more, it is believed by
the want of skill in the brewers : this impediment
to success would be removed by emigrating to Van
Diemen's, since the barley raised there is equal to
the best produced in this country.

An expert dairyman, who could take out with
him a moderate capital, would do well in any of
these settlements, but more particularly in New
South Wales. Butter, as it has been already re-
marked, is still as high as 2s, 6d. per pound. The
extreme dearness of this article arises principally
from the natural grasses not being sufficiently nu-
nt^ve to keep milch cattle in good heart, and from
the colonists not having yet got into the proper
method of providing artificial food. Any one,

T 2

^<«ntfSii^

276

therefore, who would introduce the dairy system
practised in this country could hardly fail of find-
ing his account in it.

Mercantile operations, on a moderate scale,
offer every prospect of success to an experienced
man of business and some capital; and the extra-
ordinary fluctuations which are incessantly taking
place in this colony in the prices of all sorts of
merchandize are evidently capable of being turned
to great account by a skilful and cool calculator.

The advantages which the colony offers to other
classes of emigrants, however great, are absolutely
of no weight when placed in the balance of com-
parison against those which it offers to the ca-
pitalist, who has the means to embark largely in
the breeding of fine-wooUed sheep. It may be
safely asserted, that of all the various openings
which the world at this moment affords for the
profitable investment of money, there is not one
equally inviting as this single channel of enter-
prize offered by the colony. The proof of this
assertion (says Wentworth) I shall rest on a cal-
culation so plain and intelligible, as, I hope, to be
within the scope of the comprehension 9f all. Be-
fore we proceed, however, it is necessary to settle
a few points as the data on which the calculation
is to be founded; viz. the value of the wool, the
weight of the fleece, and the number of sheep to
be kept in a flock. With regard to the value of
the wool grown in this colony, the last importa-

277

tions of the best quality averaged 55. (Sd. per pound
in the fleece. This was sold in March, 1819 j and
as the market was at that time overcharged, and
as, moreover, the best description of wool yet pro-
duced in this colony is far from having obtained
the perfection of which it is capable, and which a
few more crosses with the pure breed will un-
doubtedly effect in it, it may be safely concluded
that this is the lowest price at which this sort of
wool will be ever sold. This will be more evident
if we contemplate the gradual rise in value which
the wool from the same gentleman's flocks (Mr.
M*Arthur) has experienced during the last four
years. In 1816, it was sold (in London) for ^s. Gd.
per pound in the fleece ; in March, 1818, £6r3s. 6d.
per pound; in July, 1818, for 4<s. 4<d. per pound ;
and in March, 1819, for 5s. 6d. per pound. For
some of this last quantity of wool, properly sorted
and washed, Mr. Hurst of Leeds was offered 9s,
per pound, and refused it. To take the future
average price of wool at 5s. 6d. per pound is,
therefore, forming an estimate which, in all pro-
bability, will fall far short of the truth. However,
let this be one of our data; and let us allow three
pounds, which is also an estimate equally mo-
derate, as the average weight of each fleece. The
weight of a yearling's fleece may be taken at three-
fourths of a pound, and the value of the wool at
^s. 9d. per pound. The number of ewes generally
kept in a flock by the best breeders are about 330,

i,h (.

,..,.^,.^J

278

and we will suppose that the emigtant has the
means of purchasing a flock of this size, of the most
improved breed, This, with a sufficient number of
tups, may be purchased considerably under 1000/.
These points being determined, let us proceed to
our calculation.

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382

It will be seen by the foregoing calculation that
(with the most liberal allowance for all kind of
expenses, casualties, and deteriorations, money
sunk in the rearing of sheep in this colony will,
in the course of three years, double itself, besides
paying an interest of 7*5 per cent. ; any person,
therefore, who has the means of embarking in
this speculation, could not fail, with common at-
tention, of realizing a large fortune in a few years.
His chance of doing so would be still greater, if
he should happen to be acquainted with the ma-
nagement of sheep ; but this is by no means an
indispensable qualification, for such is the fineness
of climate both in the settlemerts in New South
Wales and Van Diemen's Island, that all those
precautions which are necessary to be observed in
England, in order to shelter the animal from the
inclemency of the seasons, are there quite super-
fluous. Sheds, indeed, are not only useless but in-
jurious J th» locks never do so well as when they
are continua./y exposed to the weather; it is only
necessary that the folds should be shifted every
other day, or, if the sheep are kept by night in
yards, to take care that these are daily swept out.
The freight of wool from this colony has already
been reduced to 3rf. per lb. which is little more
than is paid for its transport from Saxony ; and
all the other expenses (with the exception of in-
surancej are precisely the same. Upon these
grounds, therefore, it may be safely asserted that

283

the world does not at present contain so advan-
tageous, and, it might be added, so extensive an
opening for the investment of capital as the one
in question.

^»m^

284

MEMORANDA.

{Extracted from Mr. Mann's IFork.)

The following is the general course of cultivation adopted and
justified by experience.

January.

The ground intended for wheat and barley ought to be now
broken up; carrots should also be sown, and potatoes planted
in this month are most productive for the winter consumption.

February.

A general crop of turnips for sheep, &c. should be sown this
month, the land having been previously manured, cleared, ploughed,
&c. This is also the proper month for putting Cape barley in the
ground^ for green food for horses, cattle, &c.

March.

Strawberries should be planted this month, and onions for im-
mediate use should be sown. All forest land should be now
sown with wheat j and turnips, for a general crop, in the propor-
tion of one pound of seed to an acre of land.

April.

From the middle of this month, until the end of May, is the
bsst season for sowing wheat in the districts of Richmond Hill,
Phillip, Nelson, and Evan, as it is not so subject to the caterpil-
lar, smut, rust, and blight. Oacd may also be sown now for a
general crop. Asparagus haulm should also be cut and carried
off the ground, and the beds dunged.

285

May.

Pease and beans for a field crop should be sown in this month ;
but, in gardens, at pleasure, as you may be supplied with them,
as wall as most other vegetable productions, salads, &c. nearly
at all Jimes of the year,

June.

This is the best season for transplanting all kinds of fruit-
trees, except evergreens ; layers may also be now made, and cut-
tings planted from hardy trees. Spring barley should be sown
this month upon all rich land, three bushels to an acre.

July.

Potatoes which were planted in January are now fit for dig-
ging. Stocks to bud and plant upon should now be transplanted;
cal>bage and carrots may be sown ; and strawberries should be
cleaned, and have their spring dressing.

r* ; I

>• *,

August.

Potatoes must now be planted for general summer use ; the
ground prepared for clover at this season is best. Cucumbers and
melons of all kinds should now be sown, and evergreens trans-
planted. Vines ought to be cut and trimmed early in this month.
Ground may this month also be ploughed for the reception of
maize, and turnip land prepared for grass.

September.

This is the best season for grafting fruit-trees, and the ground
should be entirely prepared for planting with maize. Grass-seed
or clover should be sown in the beginning of this month, if the
weather is favourable, and there is a piospect of rains,

OCTOBKK.

Ail fruit-trfA's now in bearing should be examined, and where
the fniit is set too thick, it must be reduced to a moderate quan-

286

tity. The farmer should plant as much of his maize this mouth
as possible, and clean ground for potatoes.

November.

In this month the harvest becomes general throughout the
colony, and no wheat ought to be stacked upon the ground, as
the moisture which arises from the earth ascends through the
stack, and tends much, in this warm climate, to increase the
weevil, which prove very destructive to the wheat. Evergreens
may now be propagated by layers, and cabbage, lettuce, and
turnips sown/

December.

The stubble-ground is frequently planted with maize in this
month, so that it produces a crop of wheat and another of maize
in the same year ; but the jfolicy of thus forcing the ground is
much questioned by many experienced agriculturists, and is sup-
posed to have led to the ruin of some of those avaricious farmers.
Cauliflower and broccoli seeds may now be sown.

VAN DIEMEN'S ISLAND.

THIS Island is situated between 40°, 42', and
43°, 43' of south latitude, and between 145°, 31',
and 148°, 22' of east longitude, and separated from
New Holland by Bass's Straits or Channel.

The aborigines of this country are, if possible,
still more uncivilised than those of New Holland.
They subsist entirely by hunting, and have no
knowledge whatever of the art of fishing. They
bear great animosity to the colonists, having been
fired upon by them soon after their first settle-
ment, by which numbers were killed. Fortunately,
however, for the settlers, the natives have seldom or
never been known to act on the offensive, except
when they have met their persecutors singly.
Two persons with muskets may traverse the island
from one end to the other in the most perfect
safety.

Van Diemen*s Island has not so discouraging
and repulsive an appearance from the coast as
New Holland. Many fine tracts of land are found
on the very borders of the sea, and the interior is
almost invariably possessed of a soil admirably
adapted to all the purposes of civilized man.
The island is upon the whole mountainous, and

'it

; U

288

consequently abounds in fine streams. On the
summits of many of the mountains there are large
lakes, some of which are the sources of con-
siderable rivers. Of these the Derwent, Huon,
and Tamar rank in the first class.

There is perhaps no island in the world of the
same size which can boast of so many fine
harbours: the best are the Derwent, Port
Davy, Macquarrie Harbour, Port Dalrymple,
and Oyster Bay. The first is on its southern side ;
the second and third on its western ; the fourth
on its northern j and the fifth on its eastern : so
that it has excellent harbours in every direction.
This circumstance cannot fail to be productive of
the most beneficial effects, and will most materially
assist the future march of colonization.

There is almost a perfect resemblance between
the animal and vegetable kingdoms of this island
and of New Holland. The native dog, indeed, is
unknown here; but there is an animal of the
panther tribe in its stead, which, though not found
in such numbers as the native dog is in New
Holland, commits great havoc among the flocks.
It is true that its ravages are not so frequent, but
when they happen they are more extensive. This
animal is very cowardly, and by no means formi-
dable to man : unless, indeed, when taken by sur-
prise, it invariably flies his approach.

In the feathered tribe of the two islands there
is scarcely any diversity. It has many varieties

289

of poisonous reptiles, but they are neither so nu-
merous nor so venemous as in New Holland.

In the trees of the forest there is little dif-
ference : Van Diemen*s wants the cedar, mahogany,
and rose-wood ; but it has very good substitutes
for them in the black wood, and Huon pine,
which is a species of the yew-tree, and remarkable
for its strong odoriferous scent, and extreme
durability.

The principal mineralogical productions of this
island are iron, copper, alum, coals, slate, lime-
stone, asbestos, and basalts : all of which, with
the exception of copper, are to be had in the
greatest abundance.

HOBART TOWN.
HoBART Town, which is the seat of the lieutenant
governor, stands nine miles up the river Derwent.
It was founded only 15 years since ; and indeed
the rudeness of its appearance sufficiently indicates
the recency of its origin. The houses are in
general of a mean description, seldom exceeding
one story in height : even the government-house is
of very bad construction ; the residences, indeed, of
many individuals far surpass it The population
may be estimated at about 1000 souls.

This town is built principally on two hills,
between which there is a fine stream of excellent
water, that issues from the Table Mountain, and
falls into Sullivan's Cove. On this stream a
flour-mill has been erectea . nd there is sufficient

290

fall in it for two or three hiore. There are also
within a short distance of the town several other
streams, which originate in the same mountain,
and are equally well adapted to similar purposes.
This is an advantage not possessed by the in-
habitants of Port Jackson, since there is not, in
any of the cultivated districts to the eastward of
the Blue mountains, a single run of water which
can be pronounced in every respect eligible for
th(6 erection of mills^ Wind-mills are in cbn-
sequence almost exclusively used for gririding
com in Sydney; but in the inland towns and
districts^ the colonists are in a grea measure
obliged to have recourse to hand-mills, as the
winds, during the greatest part of the year, are
not of sufficient force to penetrate the forest and
set mills in motion.

The elevation of the Table Mountain, which
is so called from the great resemblance it bears to
the mountain of the same name at the Cape of
Good Hope, is generally estimated at about 6000
feet above the level of the sea. During 3-4ths of
the year its summit is covered with snow, and the
same violent gusts of wind blow from it as from
that at the Cape. These blasts are happily con-
fined to the precincts of the mountain, and seldom
last above three hours ; but nothing can exceed
their violence at the time.

The harbour at and conducting to the river
Derwent yields to none in the world; f^erha^
surpasses (tvtry other. There are two etitranceB

1^1

to this river, which are separated by Pitt's Island;
one ik termed D»Entreca3teaux*s Chanhel» thfe
other Storm Baj. D'Entrecafeteaux's Channel
from Point Collins up to Hobart Town, a distance,
following the course of the water, of 37 miles, is
one continued harbour, varying in breadth from
eight to two miles, and in depth from 30 to
4 fathoms. The river Derwent itself has three
fathoms water for eleven miles above the town,
and is consequently navigable thus far for vessels
of the largest burden. Reckoning therefore
from Point Collins, there is a line of harbour
m D*Entrecasteaux*s Channel and the Derwent,
together, of forty-eight miles, completely land-
locked, and affording the best anchorage the whole
way.

The entrance by Storm Bay does not offer the
same advantages, for it is 22 miles broad, and ex-
posed tb the winds from the south and south-
west. Vessels with good anchors and cables have,
however, nothing to fear.

Storm Bay, besides thus forming one of the
entrances to the river Derwent, leads to another
very good harbour, called North Bay, 16 miles
long, and in some places six and a half wide j the
greater pa*t is perfectly land-locked, and affords
excellent anchorage in from 2 to Id fathoms water.
All the bays and harbours which have been
just described abound with right whale at a par-
tiGular season of the year. During this period
th^ie aw generally ex^ery year a ^w ^ the colonial

u 2

292

craft employed in the whale fishery; but the
duties which are levied in this country on all oils
procured in vessels not having a British register
apiount to a prohibition, and completely prevent
the colonists from prosecuting this fishery farther
than is necessary for their own consumption, and
for the supply of the East India market. Between
2 and 300 tons annually suffice for both these
purposes.

The whales frequently go up the river Derwent
as far as the town ; and it is no uncommon sight for
its inhabitants to behold the whole method of
taking them, from the moment they are har-
pooned until they are finally killed by the frequent
application of the lance.

PORT DALRYMPLE.

This port is on the northern side of the island,
and was discovered by Flinders in 1798. The town
of Launceston stands about 30 miles from its
entrance, at the junction of the North Esk and
the South, with the river Tamar. It is little
more than an inconsiderable village, the houses in
general being of the humblest description. Its
population is between 3 and 400 souls. The tide
reaches 9 or 10 miles up the river Esk, and the
produce of the farms within that distance may be
sent down to the town in boats ; but the North
Esk is unnavigable.

The Tamar has sufficient depth of water, as far
as Launceston, for vessels of 150 tons, but the

29S

navigation of this river is very intricate, and it is
intended to remove the seat of government nearer
to Port Dalrymple.

Within a few miles of Launceston there is the
most amazing abundance of iron j literally speak-
ing, there are whole mountains of this ore, which
is so remarkably rich as to yield 70 per cent, of
pure metal.

These mines have not yet been worked, but
there can be no doubt that they will at no very
remote period become a source of considerable
wealth to its inhabitants.

There is a communication by land between
Launceston and Hobart Town, which are about
130 miles distant from each other in a straight
line, and about 160, following the windings of the
route at present frequented. No regular road
has been constructed between these towns ; but
the numerous carts and droves of cattle and sheep
which are constantly passing from one to the
other, have rendered the tract sufficiently distinct
and plain. In fact, the making a road is a matter
of very great ease, both here and at Port Jackson.
The person, whoever he may be, that wants to
establish a cart-road to any place, marks the trees
in the direction he wishes to take, and these
marks serve as a guide to all such as require to
travel on it. In a very short time the tracks of
the horses and carts that have passed along it
become visible, the grass is gradually trod down,
and finally disappears, and thus a road is formed.

«94

Wherever there happens to be a stream, or rfver
that i^ not fordable, it is customary to cut down
two or three trees in some spot on its banks,
where it is seen they will reach to the other side
of it ; across these, boughs or small trees are laid
close together, and over all a suflUcient covering
of earth.

Of this description are all the roads and bridges
in Van Diemen's, and many of them even in
Port Jackson, The reason why the settlements
on this island are so much behind the parent
colony is not to be traced so much to the greatey
recency of their origin, as to the circumstance of
their inhabitants being for the most part esta»
Wished along the banks of navigable waters. At
Port Dalrymple, the majority of the settlers have
fixed themiielves on the banks of the North Esk.
The Derw(mt, too, it has been seen, is navigable
for vessels of the largest burden for 20 mile^
from its entrance. A little higher up, indeed,
there are falls in it which interrupt its navigation,
but it is hardly yet colonized beyond these falls,,
and whenever that shall be the case it may easily
be rendered navigable for boats, by the help of
ferries, for a considerable distance further. Such
of the agriculturists as have not settled on the banks
of this river have selected their farms in the district
of Pilt Water, which extends along-side of that
spacious harbour called North Bay. These have
consequently the same facilities as those on the
banks of the Derweat for ^JOi^og their pradvu^

•

to market by water, and they naturally prefer
this, the cheapest mode of conveyance. It may,
therefore, be perceived, that the superior ad-
vantages which are thus presented by an inland
navigation are the main causes why the construc-
tion of regular roads has been so much neglected
in these settlements. So far, indeed, is this want
of roads from being an inconvenience to the in-
habitants of them, that the facilities afforded by
this inland navigation for the transport of all sorts
of agricultural produce to market is the principal
point of superiority which they can claim over
their brethren at Port Jackson.

Ther^ is but one court of justice in this island,
the jurisdiction of which is purely civil, and only
extends to pleas where the sum at issue does not
exceed 50/. ; but no appeal lies from its decisions.
All causes for a higher amount, and all criminal
offences beyond the cognizance of the bench of
magistrates, are removed to the courts at Port
Jackson.

Climate,, &c.

The climate of this island is equally healthy,
and much more congenial to the European con-
stitution than that of Port Jackson. The north-
west winds, which are there productive of such
violent variations of temperature, are here un-
known J and neither the summers nor winters
are subject to any great extremes of heat or cold.
The frosts, indeed, are much more severe, and of

S96

much longer duration, and the mountains, with
which this island abounds, are covered with snow
during the greatest part of the year ; but in the
vallies it never lingers on the ground more than
a few hours. Upon an average, the mean dif-
ference of temperature between these settlements
and those on New Holland (such as are to the
eastward of the Blue Mountains, for the country
to the westward of them is equally cold with any
part of Van Diemen's) may be estimated at 10° of
Fahrenheit at all seasons of the year.

The prevailing diseases are the same as at Port
Jackson, that is, phthisis and dysentery, but the
former is not so common. Rheumatic com-
plaints, however, which are scarcely known there,
exist here to a considerable extent.

Soil, &c.

In this island, as in New Holland, there is
every diversity of soil j but certainly, in proportion
to the surface of the two countries, this contains
comparatively much less of an indifferent quality.
Large tracts of land perfectly free from timber or
underwood, and covered with the most luxuriant
herbage, are to be found in all directions but
more particularly in the environs of Port i
rymple. This sort of land is invariably i' tlie
very best description, and millions of acres still
remain unappropriated, which are capable of being
instantly converted to all the purposes qf husbandry,
Therf! isV colonht has no ea^pense to incur in clear-

«97

ing his farm: he is not compelkd to a great prg'
Ummary outlay qf capital before he can expect a
considerable return : he has only to set fre to the
grass, to prepare his land for the immediate recep-
tion qf the plough-share ; so that, if he but possess
a good team qf horses, or oxen, with a set qf harness,
and a couple qf substantial ploughs, he has the main
requisite'' for commencing an agricultural establish-
ment, ana for ensuring a comfortable subsistence for
hiinse <f and family.

To this great superiority which this settlement
may claim over the parent colony may be super-
added two other items of distinction, which are
perhaps of equal magnitude and importance. First,
the rivers here have sufficient fall in them to pre-
vent any excessive accumulation of water from
violent or continued rains ; and are consequently
free from those awful and destructive inundations
to which all its rivers are perpetually subject.
Here, therefore, the industrious colonist may
settle on the banks of a navigable river, and
enjoy all the advantages of sending his produce
to market by water, without running the constant
hazard of having the fruit of his labour, the golden
promise of the year, swept away in an hour by a
capricious and domineering element. Secondly,
the seasons are more regular and defined, and
those great droughts, which have been so frequent
at Port Jackson, are here altogether unknown.
In the years 1813, 1814, and 1815, when the
whole face of the country there was literally

2$^

burnt up, and vegetation completely at a stand-
still for want of rain, an abundant supply of it
fell here, and the harvests in consequence were
never more productive. Indeed, since this settle-
ment was first established, a period of 16 years,
the crops have never sustained any serious detri-
ment from an inbufticiency of rain ; whereas, in
the parent colony, there have been, in the 31
years that have elapsed since its foundation, half
a dozen dearths occasioned by drought, and at
least as many arising from Hoods.

The circumstance, therefore, of Vc;n Diemen's
Island being thus exempt from those calamitous
consequences, which are so frequent in New
Holland, from a superabundance of rain in the
one instance, and a deficiency of it in the other,
is a most important point of consideration for all
such as hesitate in their choice betwixt the two
countries, and is well worthy the most serious
attention of those who are desirous of emigrating
to one or the other of them, with a view to become
mere agriculturists.

In the system of agriculture pursued in the two
colonies thei 3 is no difference, save that the Indian
corn, or maize, is not cultivated here, because the
pjlimate is too cold to bring this grain to maturity.
Barley and oats, however, arrive at much greater
perfection, and afford the inhabitants a substitute,
although by no means an equivalent, for this highly
valuable product. The wheat, too, which is raised
here, is of a much superior description to the wheat

grown in any pf the aistirict;? of Ppn J^?;k8on,
ftnd will always commwd, in the Sydney market,
a difference of price sufficiently great to pay for
the additional cost of transport. The average
produce, also, of land here is greater, although it
does not exceed, perhaps not equal, the produce cf
the rich flooded lands on the banks of the Hawkesr
bury and Nepean. A gentleman who reside^
many years at Port Dalrymple estimates the
average produce of the crops at that settlement
as follows: wheat, 30 bushels per acre; barley,
45 ; oats, 60. This estimate is not at all calculated
to impress the English farmer with as favourable
an opinion of the fertility of this settlement as it
merits; but if he only witnessed the slovenly
mode of tillage which is practised there he would
be surprised, not that the average produce of the
crops is so small, but that it is so great. If the
same land had the benefit of the system of agri^
culture that prevails throughout the county of
Norfolk, it may be safely asserted that its produce
would be doubled. The land on the upper banks
of the river Derwent, and at Pitt water, is equally
fertile ; but the average produce of the crops on
the whole of the cultivated districts belonging to
this settlement is at least one-fifth less than a.%
Port Dalrymple.

This settlement does not contaiu either such a
variety or abundance of fruit as the parent colony.
The superior coldness of the climate sufficiently
accounts for the former deficiency, and tlie ereater

;i ;

300

recency of its establishment for the latter. The
orange, citron, guava, loquet, pomegranate, and
many other fruits which attain the greatest per-
fection at Port Jackson, cannot be produced here
without having recourse to artificial means ; while
many more, as the peach, nectarine, grape, &c.
only arrive at a very inferior degree of maturity.
On the other hand, the apple, currant, and goose-
berry, and, indeed, all those fruits for which the
climate of the parent colony is too warm, are
raised here without difficulty.

The system of rearing and fattening cattle is
perfectly analogous to that which is pursued at
Port Jackson. The natural grasses afford an
abundance of pasturage at all seasons of the year,
and no provision of winter provender, in the shape
either of hay or artificial food, is made by the
settler for his cattle ; yet, notwithstanding this
palpable omission, and the greater length and
severity of the winters, all manner of stock attain
there a much larger size than at Port Jackson.
Oxen, from three to four years old, here average
about 700lbs. ; and wethers, from two to three years
old, from 80 to 90lbs. ; while at Port Jackson oxen
of the same age do not average more than 500lbs.,
and wethers not more than 40lbs. At Port Dal-
rymple it is no uncommon occurrence for yearly
lambs to weigh from 100 to ISOlbs., and for three
year old wethers to weigh 150lbs. and upwards ;
but this great disproportion of weight arises in
some measure from the greater part of the sheep

301

at this settlement having become, from constant
crossing, nearly of the pure Teeswater breed.
Still th'e superior richness of the natural pastures
of these southern settlements is, without doubt,
the main cause of the increased weight at which
both sheep and cattle arrive, since there is both a
kindlier and larger breed of cattle at Port Jackson,
which, nevertheless, neither weighs as heavy, nor
affords as much suet, as the cattle there. This is
an incontrovertible proof that the natural grasses
possess much more nutritive and fattening qualities
in this colony than in the other j and the superior
clearness of the country is quite sufficient to
account for this circumstance, without taking
into the estimate the additional fact, that up to a
certain parallel of latitude, to which neither the
one nor the other of the countries extend, the su-
perior adaptation of the colder climate for the rear-
ing and fattening of stock is quite unquestionable.

The price of provisions is about on a par in the
two colonies, or, if there be any difference, it is
somewhat lower here. Horses, three or four years
back, were considerably dearer than at Port Jack-
son; but large importations of them have been
made in consequence, and it is probable that
their value is before this time completely equalized.

The wages of ordinary labourers are at least
30 per cent higher, and of mechanics 50 per cent
higher, than in the parent colony ; a disproportion
solely attributable to the very unequal and in-
judicious distribution that has been made of the
convicts.

302

the progress ttiade by this settlement in manu-
factures is too inconsiderable to deserve notice.

The eommefce carried on by the colonists is of
the same nature as that which is maintained by
their brethren at Port Jackson. Like these, they
have as yet no staple export to exchange for the
various commodities they import from foreign
countries, and are obliged to rely principally on
the expenditure of the government for the means
of procuring them. Their annual income may
be taken as follows :

Money expended by the government for the "»
support of officers and convicts . J
Money expended by foreign shipping
Wheat, &c. exported to Port Jackson
Exports collected by the merchants at the ">
settlement • • . J

Sa&dries ....

£' i. d.

30,000 0 0

5,000 0 0

4-,000 0 6

5,000 0 0

2,000 0 0

.£44,000 0 0

The duties are on the same scale as at Port
Jackson, and amount to about 5000/. per annum.

The number of inhabitants in Van Diemen's
is 3114* of which S554 are in the district of the
Derwent, and 560 at Port Dalrymple, and may
be divided into the following clas&es :

Tree persons.
2186

Soldiers.
200

Convicts.

728

Since
further ;
South \^
ment, fi
ticulars :

The a
Foxhoun
very im|
territory
passage i
tains, an
discover!
and we
stating, 1
it of eas^
descripti
acquisiti(
C. Thtos
many ye
after tw
last, wit
Codckoo
and Dua
for Bath
fieulties i
of the f<
wiis, on '
peditjofi,

303

Since this publication has been in the press,
further accounts have been received from New
South Wales relative to the state of that settle-
ment, from which we extract the following par-
ticulars :

The advices received from Port Jacksoh, by the
Foxhound, to the 13th June, contain information
very important to the interests of this advancing
territory. We some time since announced that a
passage had been effected across the Blue Moun-
tains, and that a most desirable country had been
discovered to the west of those towering heights;
and we have now the additional gratification of
stating, that a communication has been opened to
it of easy access, running through lands of the first
description. The colonists are indebted for this
acquisition to their resources to the exertions of
G. Thtosby, Esq. a large land and stock-holder,
many years resident in New South Wales* whoj
after two preceding attempts, succeeed in May
last, with the assistance of two native guides,
Coockoogottn, chief of the Burrah-burrah tribe,
and Dual, in passing from the Cow-pastures dir^ect
for Bathurst, having encountered only those dif-
ficulties inseparably attendant on the first explorets
of the forests of a new country. Mt. Throsby
wis, on the whole, occupied 15 days on the ex-
pedition, hi^ pt^ogresfe beittg protviwited fccm. ^ome

304

of his party falling ill, and bad weather j but by
the delay he had greater opportunity of examining
the country on each side of his rouLe; and in his
letter to the gentleman from whom we have the
information he says, " I have no hesitation in

' stating, we have a country fit for every and any
purpose, where fine-woolled sheep may be in-
creased to any amount, in a climate peculiarly
congenial to them : ere long, you will hear of a

' route being continued to the southward, as far as
Twofold Bay, and so on farther in succession
through a country as much more beautiful and
superior to the Cow-pastures as that now enviable
district is to the land contiguous to Sydney, and
where our herds, our flocks, and our cultivation
may unlimitedly increase, at an inconsiderable
distance from the great and grand essential in a
young colony — ^water carriage."

The following extract of a general order from
the governor on the occasion will evince his ex-
cellency's estimation of the importance of Mr.
Throsby's exertions :

" G. and G. O.

" Government-house, Sydney, May 31.

" His excellency the governor having received
and perused the journal of a tour lately made by
Charles Throsby, Esq., by the way of the Cow-
pastures to Bathurst, in the new discovered country
westward of the Blue Mountains, takes this early
opportunity publicly to announce the happy result

an {

very ei

prospe]

n « Tl

having

range i

cattle,

became

anothe]

able ba

ticable,

effected

Bathurs

"Hi!

Throsbi

qualitiei

betweer

he repr

fertile,

of wate:

and vail

view, bi

pasturag

" The

hanced

range oi

Cow-pasi

now fulh

with pres

"His

ciating J

305

of an enterprise which promises to conduce, m a
very eminent degree, to the future interest and
prosperity of the colony.

"The communication with the Western Country
having been heretofore over a long and difficult
range of mountains, alike ungenial to man and
cattle, from their parched and barren state, it
became aii object of great importance to discover
another route, whereby those almost insurmount-
able barriers would be avoided, and a moi« prac-
ticable, and consequently less hazardous access
effected to the rich and extensive plains of
Bathurst.

" His excellency adverts with pleasure to Mr.
Throsby's general report of the capabilities,
qualities, and features of the country intervening
between the Cow-pastures and Bathurst ; which
he represents to be, with few exceptions, rich,
fertile, and luxuriant; abounding with fine runs
of water, and all the happy varieties of soil, hill,
and valley, to render it not only delightful to the
view, but highly suitable to all the purposes of '
pasturage and agriculture.

" The importance of these discoveries is en-
hanced by the consideration, that a continuous
range of valuable country, extending from the
Cow-pastures to the remote plains of Bathurst, is
now fully ascertained, connecting these countries
with present settlements on this side the Nepean.
" His excellency the governor, highly appre-
ciating Mr. Throsby's services on this occasion,

S06

offers him this public tribute of acknowledgment,
for the zeftl and perseverance by which hie was ac-
tuated throughout that arduous undertaking ; and
desires his acceptance of 1,000 acres of land in
any part of the country discovered by himself
that he may choose to select.

'' " By command of his excellency,

^, (Signed) " J. T., qi!,MPBEj,^Jecjretary."^

'^^ By the Shipley, that had sailed on the 1st of
April, but has not yet arrived, between 200 and
SOO troops were sent home, which has left the
colony with a force of only 500 men for its pro^
tection. The number was deemed inadequate
for the purpose, and the settlers (in other respects
going on prosperously) were in anxiety and alarm
on that account. An increase of military force
has been long expected by the colony, as well as
a brig of war at Sydney. All the benevolent
institutions, especially the Orphan School, founded
by the excellent lady of their former governor.
Captain King, are producing the best effects on
the rising generation.

The progress of the settlements in New South
Wales and Van Diemen's Land has been so rapid,
that they now possess, of their own growth, all
the necessaries of life, and are even enabled to
make exportation of a surplus produce. They
have lately sent horses to Batavia, cattle and
salted meat to the Isle of France, and fiour to the
Cape of Good Hope, to assist in meeting the

307

distresses the inhabitanU of that territory have
lately experienced for the want of grain. Nor
do these colonks less contribute to the wants
of the mother country, which they supply with
spenn, black oil, seal-skins of a superior descrip-
tion, and wools of a quality vying with the best
Saxon and Spanish. The ship Surrey is on her
way to England, freighted with these valuable
articles. The exertions of the colonists have
hitherto been much retarded by the duties im-
posed on their exports, but there is reason to
hope these impediments will be removed, as a
petition for that purpose, signed by the principal
colonists, has been transmitted to the legislature,
by the governor. We are now enabled to annex
an abstract of the last public muster, concluded in
the different settlements in November last (1818),
when the following results were ascertained : —

Total of the popnlation of the territory, 25,050 souls, being an
increase, in one year, of nearly 5,000 inhabitants.
Acres of wheat io cultivation
Ditto of ground ready for maize
Ditto of barley, oats, peas, and beans in cultivation
Ditto of potatoes
Ditto of gardens and orchards
Ditto of cleared ground
Total quantity of acres held by individuals .

20,100

8,400

1,990

730

990

49,600

290,600

LIVE STOCK.
Total number of horned cattle in the territory
Ditto of sheep ....

Ditto of swine
Ditto of horses

55,450

301,240

22,630

3,600

X 2

vHJo

^The settlers are supplying the government
stores with fresh beef, and mutton, and pork, at
6d, per pound. The average market price of
wheat in May and June last was Ss. 6d, per bushel ^
and other necessaries of life equally reasonable.

As a criterion of the luxuries enjoyed by the
inhabitants in fruit, one garden, belonging to a
gentleman a few miles from Sydney, contains the
following extensive variety, and which are generally
dispersed over the whole of New South Wales : —
viz. oranges, citrons, lemons, pomegranates, lo-
quatts, guavas, the olive, grapes of every species,
pineapples, peaches, nectarines, apricots, apples,
pears, plums, figs; English, Cape, and China
mulberries ; walnuts, Spanish chesnuts, almonds,
medlars, raspberries, strawberries, melons, quinces,
and the caper, with others of minor value ; and
such is the abundance of peaches, that the swine
of the settlers are fed with them. In Van
Diemen's Land the currant and gooseberry are
particularly fine.

It has at last been ascertained the colonists can
furnish their mills with stones from their own
soil, for which they have hitherto been compelled
to resort to French burrs ; but J. Blaxland, Esq.
gives notice in the last Gazette, that his mill
grinds wheat with stones of colonial produce, at
one shilling per bushel. The steam-engine erected
at Sydney by Mr. Dixon has proved of much
service.
The governor has again permitted the inha-

«CD

bitants to indulge themselves with annual races,
for which purpose there is a most capital race-
course adjoining Sydney; and on the 4th June a
silver cup, a silver bowl, cover, and ladle, were
spiritedly contested for.

"As a singular proof of the intercourse already
existing with Otaheite and New Zealand, we see
the following inhabitants of these fine islands
giving notice, in a Gazette of May last, of their
departure from Port Jackson, as sailors in colonial
vessels, viz. Roni^ Pautu, Popoti^ Tiapoa, Moai,
Topdt Fiew, Aiycng, Howhoe ; and similar notices
frequently occur.

' A new schooner, of 40 tons, built in the Crown
dock-yard at Sydney, by command of the Prince
Regent, as a present to the king of the Sandwich
Islands, was launched in April, and was to be
despatched immediately, properly equipped.

At an annual examination of the public schools
at Paramatta, a black native girl belonging to the
Orphan Schoolj founded by Mrs. King bore away
the second prize ; thus proving the aborigines are
susceptible of sufficient mental improvement to
adapt them to the purposes of civilized associa-
tion.

The inhabitants of New South Wales were ac-
commodated with a newspaper within a few years
of its establishment; and we see announced in one
of its last numbers, that a literary periodical pub-
lication was to make its first appearance the 1st of
last month, under the title of Tke Australasian

■»'

■

Vm l^B

I^H '^^H

'^^^1

■li'S

■

' ^^^B

\'\ '<{' V IHH

'gHMBHH|

-■:■

^^1

SlO

Magazine and Quarterly Register nf Agriculhtral
and Commercial Ifi/brmation, the Fine Arts, ^'c.

From the best information that has been con-
veyed concerning the progress of the settlementf
in New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land, it
certainly seems preferable that government, in-
stead of liding emigrations to the unsettled parts
of the Cape of Good Hope, should divert them
to these colonies already established at so con-
siderable an expense j that they should rather en-
courage our overflowing population to adventure
in an established community, where their fellow-
countrymen are already experienced in the climate
and soil, and in the peculiar cultivation adapted
to them \ and where the natives, too, are harm-
less ; than subject them to the difficulties of first
operations in a new country, exposed on either
side to inroads from the Cafires and Bosjesmans;
where they will be viewed with jealousy by all
their neighbours, and be governed by laws (the
Anglo-Dutch) uncongenial to their habits.

It is certainly most desirable that those who,
from whatever causes, are anxious to expatriate,
should, under all probabilities, adventure to the
most eligible situations ; and looking to what has
already been accomplished in the territory we are
speaking of, and to the results which may ra-
tionally b'* expected from the capabilities known
to exist ' :, and in despite of the distaste that
may in s minds attach to a society which has
originated from the outcasts of the mother-coun-

311

try, we are inclined to view then us among tlie
most eligible asylums that can be offered.

The report of the Committee of the House of
Commons, which sat last session, in review of the
state of our settlements in this part of the world,
is daily expected to appear, and we look for some
further information that may cause us again to re-
turn to the subject. We understand it was repre-
sented to the members of that committee, by a
gentleman of many years experience in these co-
lonies, that a vessel of 460 tons could be chartered
to take out 50 families, consisting on an average
of a man, his wife, and two children, at the small
expense of 100/. each family, including their pro-
visions on the passage, and allowing them sufiScient
tonnage for their baggage and stores. Settlers,
on arrival in New South Wales and Van Diemen's
Land, have a grant of land allotted to them pro-
portionate to their powers of making proper use
of* it, with a certain number of laborers, whd with
their families are victualled from the public stores
for six months. o^jtMiXiO

MEMORANDA.

*^ Dui'tea at New South PFales and Fan Diemett» Island.

SHIPS from any part of the world importing cargoes (the ma-
nufactures of Great Britain excepted) to pay a duty of five per
cent, ad valorem on the amount of their respective invoices.

^ £. *. <l.

On every gallon of spirits landed - - • 0 lO 0

Ditto wine ditto - . . > 0 0 9

On every pound of tobacco - - - 0 0 6

Wharfage on each bale, cask, or package - - Q 0 6

The Naval Office to receive 5 per cent, on ail duties

collected at this port.

Wharfinger's Fees.

On each bale, cask, or package, landed or shipped - 0 0 3

Metage per ton on coals - - - 0 2 6

Measure of timber, pel- 1000 feet - - - 0 2 0

The following duties to be levied and collected by the Naval

Officer on the articles hereunder named, upon their arrival and

landing, whether for colonial consumption or re-shipment.

On each ton of sandal wood ...

On each ton of pearl shells - - .

On each ton of beechOe-mer - -

On each ton of sperm oil (252 gallons)

On each ton of black whale or other oil * -

On each fur seal skin - - . .

On each hair ditto ...

On each kangaroo ditto' - . .

On cedar, or other timber, from Shoal Haven, or any
other part of the coast or harbours of New South
Wales (Newcastle excepted, as the duties are
already prescribed there), when not supplied by
government labourers for each solid foot - - O 1 o

• These are merely colonial duties; it is the duty in thii country that nearly
amount! to a orohibition.

- 2

'■- 5

(i..ti/2

- 2

- 0

313

For every 20 spars from New 2^aland or elsewhere
On timber, in log or plank, from New Zealand or else-
where, for each solid foot - - -

£. t, i,
10 0

.010

Fees and Dues in the various Offices.
secretary's office. — governor's fees.

For the great seal to every grant, not exceeding 1000

acres - - - - - 0 5 0

For all grants exceeding 1000 acres, for every 1000

each grant contains - - -.-026

For a licence of occupation - - - - 0 5 0

Secretary's Fees.

For every grant, and passing the seal of the province,

if under 100 acres - - - 0 5 0

Between 100 and 500 acres - - - - 0 10 O

All above - -- - - -0 15 0

In grants of land, where the number of proprietors

shall exceed 20, each right - - - 0 2 6

In ditto, where the number of proprietors shall not ex-
ceed 20 — ^the same as for grants in proportion to
the quantity of land.
For license of occupation of land - - - 0 2 6

For every grant of land from 1000 to 20,000 acres,
take for the first 1000 acres 1 5s. and for every 1000
acres more, 2s. 6d.

Fees to be taken by the Surveyor General of Land.

For each grant, not exceeding

Ditto - . - .

Ditto

Ditto - . -

Ditto - - - -

Ditto . . . -

Ditto - - . - -

Ditto - - -' -

40 acres

90 ditto

190 ditto

250 ditto

350 ditto

400 ditto

750 ditto

000 ditto

914

Ditto, on town leMes^ per foot <« street frtmt » - 0 0 I
And on all grants exceedbg 1000 acres for each 100

acres so exceeding - • -040

j4wdit9r'»F00$.
Tot the auditing of every grant

-034

Regkirar'* Fee*.

For recording a grant of land, for or nnder 500 acres 0 13

For ditto from 500 to 1000 acres - - - O 2 d

For every 1000 acres to the amonnt of 20,000 - - 0 10 6

For recording a grant of a township - - - 1 0 0

%>'i

OBSERVATIONS.

OF the beneficial results of emigration, in a
pecuniary point of view, to those who leave this
country with the intention of employing themselves
in agriculture, there can be little doubt; for
whether we look to the United States of America,
or to our own colonies, it will be found that the
mere increase in the value of the land alone, afler
15 or 20 years' occupation, independent of the
produce from it during that period, offers large
returns for their labors, and may justly be con-
sidered amply sufficient to compensate for the
deprivation of a few luxuries at the commence-
ment of a settlement. Previous, however, to any
general observations, the author may perhaps
materially assist some of his readers by recapitu-
lating such advantages, and disadvantages, of each
particular colony, as appear of sufficient mag-
nitude to merit distinction, or influence the emi-
grant in his choice.

CANADA.

The chief disadvantage of Canada is its climate;
the severity of which, in the Lower Province,
during six months of the year, is so great, as to

316

cause a complete obstruction to navigation, as
well as to impede agricultural and most other
kinds of employment : it is, therefore, particularly
requisite for such emigrants as have no other
means of support than what may be derived from
their daily labour, to endeavour to reach this
colony as early in the spring as possible. The
climate of the Upper Province, though not at
present considered salubrious, probably in con-
sequence of its not being yet sufficiently cleared,
is considerably milder than in the vicinity of
Quebec and Montreal.

The advantages of Canada to those who possess
capital are, it must be confessed, of some mag-
nitude, and probably more than equal to any ob-
stacles that may result from the coldness of the
climate ; which, after all, is perhaps only an imagi-
nary evil, as the rapidity of vegetation during the
summer is in proportion ; and it appears that the
inhabitants of this, and of other cold countries,
invariably look forward with pleasure to the winter
season as a period of visiting, feasting, and re-
creation; and the unanimous accounts of aH tra-
vellers in regard to the salubrity of Lower Canada
are sufficient proofs that though the severe cold
of the country may be sometimes unpleasant to
the feelings, it is not in the least injurious t the
constitutions of the inhabitants.
; It must be recollected also, that this colony
possesses an old established government, and that
the state of society, and the manners of the people,

317

are proportionably ameliorated. The means of
education are of easy attainment. And the
steam-boats in the summer, and the sleighs in
the winter months, afford a facility of communica-
tion throughout th^ year, far superior to what is
enjoyed by any o..ier colony: to which may be
added, that it is a country of considerable trade jl
possessing not only the advantages of a direct
commercial intercourse with the mother country,
and, by means of the Lakes, with the United States
of America ; but also, that of supplying our West
India settlements with grain and lumber, in which
a very active trade is carried on, and West
India produce received in return, thereby causing
an almost certain demand for superabundant pro-
duce, as well as various openings for the employ-
ment of capital.

(

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

The disadvantages of this colony are, the bar-
renness of some parts of the soil ; the number of
ferocious animals ; the Caffres ; the badness of the
harbours ; the dangerous nature of the coasts ; and
the want of navigable rivers. The ferocious
animals and the Caffres are only temporary evils ;
and although some parts of the soil be barren,
there are others of a contrary description, parti-
cularly in that situation selected for colonization
by his Majesty's government : even the harbours
may in time be improved j but the nature of the

318

coasts, and the almost total want of navigable
rivers, are impediments not easily surmounted.

The advantages of the Cape are, its climate,
which, although warm, is extremely healthy; and
its situation, which indeed can scarcely be sur-
passed, and must ever afford to this colony a
facility of commerce with all parts of the world
superior to that possessed b '^^ther.

NEW SOUTH WALES.

The disadvantages of New South Wa es are,
the droughts from want of rain, the overflowing
of the rivers, and the circumstance of the major
part of tlie inhabitants either being, or having
been, convicts. The droughts and inundations
may be considered permanent evils ; that respect-
ing the convicts can only exist a few years longer,
as the numerous births, and the probable increase
of emigration, will shortly render the number
trifling in comparison to that of the other de-
scriptions of inhabitants, notwithstanding any
additional supply from England. The natives
can scarcely be considered as an evil: those
contiguous to the settlements are partially ci-
vilized, and those of the interior seldom or never
attack a man who is armed.

The advantages this colony possesses are, several
good harbours and navigable rivers; in having no
destructive animal except the wild dog, which only
occasionally attacks the sheep } and in its situation,

which renaers it extremely eligible *«* v^uTying
on a commerce with the Cape of Good Hope, the
East Indies, China, and, above all, wiUi the whole
of the western coast of South America, to which
country the trade may in a few years become very
considerable.

VAN DIEMEN'S ISLAND.

This island, with the single exception of one-
third of the inhabitants being convicts, has no dis-
advantage worthy of notice. Here are neither
droughts nor inundations, and the natives are even
more timid than those at Port Jackson, as well
as fewer in number. It possesses the same ad-
vantages, in a commercial point of view, as New
South Wales. The harbours are not only nu-
merous but good ; that of Hobart Town, in par*
ticular, is supposed to be equal to any in the
world; and, above all, the climate is excellent, being
nearly upon a par with that of the south of France,
the snow seldom remaining in the vallies more
than a few hours : it is indeed probable that it
will be found even superior to that of New South
Wales for the production of fine-woolled sheep^
which, if Mr. Wentworth's calculation be correct,
afford the most promising object for speculation.

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

In forming a comparison between the British
Colonies and the United States, it will be un-

8«0

necessary to allude to any but the western terri-
tory, all accounts being unanimous in describing
that part ds the most eligible.

The principal disadvantage in America is that
of the emigrant being obliged to purchase the land
he intends for a settlement, which in our own co-
lonies he obtains j^^e*/ nor is the climate at pre-
sent so favourable as it has been represented j the
fact being, that, in consequence of the vast extent
of uncleared land, the country is extremely sub-
ject to agues and fevers : these may probably dis-
appear as the woods decrease, but in the interim
the colonist is exposed to their effects.

The advocates for emigration to America ar^
very strenuous in their endeavours to impress upon
the public the circumstance of that country pos-
sessing neither game laws, tithes, nor taxes of any
consequence; but it must be recollected, that
the British Colonies are equally free from these
evils.

The author, therefore, is induced to think that
the British Colonies are, upon the whole, more
eligible for emigration than America, notwith^
standing the great distance of some of them from
England. The following calculation of the ex-
pense of going to the Illinois, and to one of th^
most distant British Colonies, may, perhaps, in-
cline some of his readers to coincide in this idea.
A family, consisting of a gentleman, his wife, five

• With respect to the Cape of Good Hope, vide page 329,

321

children, and a female servant, sailed from the
river Thai lea in May last for Van Dieraen's Island :
the passage money was 300/. which was to include
spirits, wine, &c. j and the table was to be kept up,
notwithstanding any delay at Madeira, or Rio Ja-
neiro. If an emigrant, with the same number in
family, intend to settle in the United States, say
near Mr. Birkbeck's residence, he must first go
to Baltimore, the passage money to which place
would be about 150/.; viz. 40/. each, for himself
and wife, 201. for the servant, and 10/. each, for the
children: upon his arrival at Baltimore, it will
probably be necessary to remain a week, and then
proceed over the Alleghany mountains to Pitts-
burg, about 250 miles ; here he will, perhaps, be
obliged to stop another week, and then go down the
Ohio river to the mouth of the Wabash, 910 miles,
and thence near 100 miles farther; to take which
journey, with even a very small degree of comfort^
including the expense of a week's stay at Balti-
more and Pittsburg, could not cost less than 150/.
more, making in the whole 300/.

We will suppose each settler left England with
a capital of 1000/. : this, deducting the expense of
conveyance to the different points of their destina-
tioli, would be reduced to 700/. The settler, upon
his arrival at Van Diemen*s* with such a capital,
would, upon making the usual application to the
governor, receive a grant of 800 acres, free of ex-

* These remarks and calculations are equally applicable to
NeW South Wales.

f: iilll

!i Wl:

m 3

ill

322

pense, except a small fee, and consequently have
his capital of 700/. to commence farming with.
The settler in America, on the contrary, must
purchase his 800 acres, which, at the money price
of one dollar 64 cents, per acre, is within a trifle
of 300/., leaving 400/. only to begin with.

Independently of this great advantage, there are
several others of less consequence in favour of
the emigrant to Van Diemen's :

First, in going the whole distance by water, in-
stead of the route just described to the Illinois
territory, which is not only unpleasant, but even
hazardous with a family.

Secondly, the settler, his family, and servants,
at Van Diemen's, are victualled at the expense of
government for six months after their arrival.

Thirdly, the price of labor is scarcely one-half
of what it is in America. The laborers, it is true,
are convicts; but it is doubtful whether they are
much worse than the back-woodsmen of America.
The attachment of servants to their master must,
in general, depend upon his treatment of them : if
he make it their interest to behave well, by a little
kindness when necessary, and by holding out the
prospect of being rewarded after a certain period
of service, it is more than probable he will be
served that period faithfully.

Fourthly, in forming a comparison of the pro-
fits likely to be derived by each settler, the
balance is still more in favour of Van Diemen's.
The high prices of agricultural produce there, in

.133

proportion to tliosc in America, must ensure
to t!ie farmer a very considerable profit, as the
outgoings, owing to the low price of labor, are
even less than in the United States. The cause of
the high price of provisions, is the consumption
made of those articles by the officers and convicts
who are employed by government : these prices,
therefore, are likely to continue' until the number
of settlers shall be considerably increased. In the
newly settled districts of America there are no
inhabitants of this description: every one grows
enough for himself and family, and, consequently,
can have little occasion to purchase.

There is yet another circumstance to be taken
into consideration, and to some persons very ma-
terial : after you have located in America, several
years must elapse before a town of any magnitude
can arise in the neighbourhood, at which you may
meet any respectable society, or procure education
for your children ; whereas land at Van Diemen's
Island may be procured within a very few miles
of the capital town, containing already a popula-
tion of 1000 inhabitants, and which, being the seat
of government, affords a well regulated society,
with its attendant comforts.

The reader will perceive that the foregoing cal-
culation is chiefly intended for the capitalist;
and it appears that to any one possessed of 1000/.
or upwards, both New South Wales and Van
Diemen's Island, but particularly the latter, offer

Y 2

-trs£^a^gvr-."r¥r7»Ti|

3i>4

far greater imlucements than the United States of
America.

With respect to the Cape of Good Hope, the
present advantages to a capitahst are not quite so
apparent ; but it must be confessed the data ne-
cessary to form an opinion are few, the informa-
tion afforded by the writers on this colony being
of too general a description to enable the compiler
to offer any decisive advice : but that it afford*
the means of present subsistence is certain, and
there can be no doubt that a soil and climate
which admit of the productions of many parts of
Europe, and of the greater part of the United
States, must eventually afford large returns to the
employment of capital.

It may now be proper to offer a few remark*
relative to those emigrants who are without ca-
pital, or possess sufficient only to pay for their
conveyance. To such as are laborers, and who are
contented to remain so, America certainly holds
out inducements far superior to any other coun-
try. In no part of the world is there so great a
difference between the price of labor and that of
provisions; and a workman of the lowest order
can, with comparative ease, earn sufficient to sup-
port himself and family. The number, however, of
this class of emigrants is very small: out of the
thousands that embark for America, there are
few who do not look forward to the time when
they shall become proprietors of land ; with the

3:25

exception, therefore, of that small number who
are contented to remain laborers, the chief ob-
ject and expectation of an emigrant is that of
becoming a landholder. That this object is more
easy of attainment in the British Colonies than
in America will be shown in the following par-
ticulars :

We will suppose a laborer on his way to the
United States : he would have to pay for his pas-
sage, in the steerage, from London to Baltimore,
about 10/. ; his stock of provisions, bedding. Sec.
would, at the very lowest calculation, come to 10/.
more : his journey from Baltimore to the western
territory, the only part where work is certain,
might, perhaps, cost another 10/., making upon the
whole 30/. At the end of this journey he will
have to seek for employment-, and though there
is little doubt of his obtaining it, yet he must
labor for several years before he can acquire suf-
ficient, even with great economy, to become a pro-
prietor of land.

On the other hand, a laboring man, for SO/, or
35/.* at the most, can convey himself to New South
Wales or Van Diemen*s. Upon his arrival at either
of these places, in lieu of having to work for four
or five years, he obtains at once a grant of from
50 to 100 acres, is fed for six months, and may

I if

* These calculations, it must be borne in mind, only ap^ly to
an individual : if the settler have a wife and children, the sum will
probably a^nount to near 1 00/., or more, in proportion to the fa-

ilv.

326

stock his farm from the government store, ^e-^
paying the amount at the expiration of three years,
which an industrious man can easily do, as, be-
sides the profits from the produce of his land, for
which there is an excellent market, if he be a
wheelwright, smith, or any other trade of use in
the colony, he may occasionally turn his leisure
hours to a good account.

By comparing these statements, it will be evi-
dent that the inducements for emigration to New
South Wales and Van Diemen's, even to the la-
borer are superior to any that can be offered by
the United States.

For this class of emigrants, however, the Cape
of Good Hope is far more advantageous than
either of the above-mentioned places j more par-
ticularly to such as have families.

The mode adopted by government, as will be
seen by referring to the circular letter, is that of
conveying the settlers, and families q£ not more
than two children, free of expense, to Algoa Bay,
near the intended place of settlement j and of
granting a portion of land equal to one hundred
acres for every settler. The application for a
passage, &c. must be made to the colonial depart-
ment, in Downing-street; but as government will
not attend to any application unless made on the
behalf of at least ten persons, it will be first ne-
cessary to procure this number, each of whom
must deposit 10/. at the office in London, which
sum will be returned to them at the Cape, and
enable them to purchase a few agricultutal im-

3^7

plements, as well as to exist while the land is
being cultivated. From these particulars it ap-
pears, that any number of persons above ten, and
who can command 10/. each, may be actually
conveyed with their families to the place of settle-
ment, and obtain a grant of land of one hundred
acres free of expense*. These inducements for
emigration, to the poorer class, are certainly far
beyond those offered by any other part of the
world. With the exception, however, of the settler
and family being victualled during the voyage,
the same inducements have existed for some time
past, and yet, notwithstanding the comparative
superior advantages for emigration which are, and
have been possessed, by the British colonies, still,
it cannot be denied, that more than nine tenths
of the British emigrants who have left their
country within these last two years have gone to
the United States. That there is some cause for
this unequal division must be certain : it cannot
be in the fancied superiority of the government,
for that can make but little difference to the
generality of emigrants, thousands of whom never
entertain a thought about it. If, however, we
take into consideration the state of the major
part of the emigrants, as well as the chief cause of
their emigrating, we shall not be surprised to learn

* It appears that government have already received so many
appUci^tions that they have, for the present, declined the accept-
ance of any further offers ; but the colony is still open to those
who may choose to eo out at their own expense.

328

that nearly the whole of them leave this country-
in debt; indeed, this is known to be the case in
almost every instance. In America, a man thus
situated is safe ; but not so in our own colonies :
he may be proceeded against the moment he seta
his foot on shore, or his creditor, with an apparent
lenity, may wisely allow him a year or two to
bring his land into cultivation, and then seize
it, together with his house and stock, turning
the unhappy settler and his family into the desert,
to seek a subsistence how and where they can. For
a man to think of settling in the British colonies,
with this prospect in view, would be madness ; and
thus, by all accounts, at least nine tenths of the
British emigrants are absolutely prohibited from
choosing any other place but the United States,
whatever may be their inclination to the colonies,
or attachment to the venerable institutions of their
native country. This, it is imagined, sufficiently
explains why America, notwithstanding the endea-
vors of this country to turn the tide of emigration,
still attracts such a vast proportion of British
settlers ? and that she will continue to do so, as
long as the laws remain in this state, there can be
little doubt. Perhaps, however, government may
deem this subject worthy of consideration. To
exonerate the settlers entirely from the debts
they had previously contracted would be unjust
to their creditors 5 but it would be advantageous
to both parties, and to the settlers absolutely ne-
cessaiy, to be exempt from any legal proceedings.

329

arising from their debts, for eight or ten years, so
that they might have time to save enough to ex-
tricate themselves from their embarrassments, and
not be subject to have their land and their cattle
seized i.t the very moment they may begin to
reap the fruits of their labor.
.There can be but one chief method of inducing
emigrants to settle in the British colonies, and
that is, by rendering colonization there more ad-
vantageous than it is in the United States. His
Majesty's government, however, appears to have
overlooked this circumstance, or it would not
compel the settler to the payment of a rent, for
his land, more particularly such an one as two
pounds for every hundred acres, as will be seen
in the circular letter relative to the Cape of Good
Hope. It is true that it is never to exceed this
sum, but it is probable it will in most cases equal it.
The purchase of an acre of land in America
is, at the money price, one dollar sixty-four cents,
or seven shillings and four pence halfpenny : the
interest of this, at five per cent., is not quite four
pence halQ)enny, being the rent of an acre of land
in America. Now, at the rate of two pounds for
every hundred acres, each acre will be four pence
three farthings ; consequently the rent of a farm
at the Cape of Good Hope will be higher than
one in the United States ; and the circumstance of
procuring land for nothing, which has ever been
held up ^s the grand inducement for emigrating
to the British colonies, is entirely ^et aside.

•m

• t;i

330

Allowing the spot fixed upon at the Cape for
British settlers to be the most fertile in the
colony, and that the perseverance, skill, and in-
dustry of these settlers, render them far superior
to the Dutch inhabitants ; still it may be necessary
to ask, will the English settler pay willingly a
rent of four pence three farthings per acre,
when his Dutch neighbour pays less than one
farthing*? and would it be possible to collect at
this moment from the Dutch settlers a rent of
even one penny per acre ? It is apprehended that
any one at all conversant with this colony would
give a negative to both these questions.

Upon a further reference to the circular letter,
the reader will perceive, the only mode by which
an emigrant can procure a large grant of land, at
the Cape of Good Hope, is that of taking with
him ten able-bodied men, and upon his arrival
with these men at the place of settlement, he
procures one thousand acres free of expense.
It appears also, that the party taking out these
laborers has the power of making any agree-
ment with them he may consider requisite ; and
it is only natural to suppose he will make the
best he can for himself: it is, therefore, more
than probable, many of these laborers may be
induced, either through ignorance or distress, to
bind themselves to the servitude of ten, twenty,
or even a greater number of years, with no other

• Vide i»age 1 75.

331

recompense than subsistence, thus creating a
species of slavery.

It must be obvious that any one who may be
persuaded to agree to such a disproportionate
length of service will, after a short residence in
the colony, become conscious of the imprudent
step he has committed, and by forming a com-
parison with those who have entered into more
favourable compacts, naturally grow dissatisfied
with his situation. The probable result will be,
that he deserts his service ; and should it be un-
lawful for any other settler to employ him, he will
have no alternative but that of joining the Caffres
or Bosjesmen, or, by uniting with others in a
similar predicament to himself, subsist by com-
mitting depredations upon the colonists. Even
on the supposition that the majority of those who
go out as laborers have sufficient sense not to
bind themselves to more than five years' service
(and it is not imagined any one would be at the
trouble and expense of conveying a man out for a
less period of service), still, at the expiration of
that time, he will be no better off, with the ex-
ception, perhaps, of a greater certainty of pro-
curing work, than he was in England, and may
probably for the remainder of his life be unable
to rise above the rank of a common labourer.

The chief inducement a man has for emigrating,
as before observed, is the prospect ofpossessing, after
a few years' labor, a portion of land sufficient for the
mainfp.nanrp of himsplf nnrl fnmilv nnri nf Uaxrltyrm

332

the satisfaction of feeling, that his children are
in some degree provided for, in the event of his
death. According to the present plan, however,
of colonizing the Cape of Good Hope, this pro-
spect, which the emigrant might otherwise justly
anticipate, is not very likely to be realized without
the intervention of government ; but which, from
the well known intelligence of the heads of His
Majesty's colonial department, will no doubt
shortly take place, unless any particular reason
should exist to the contrary.

Tlie best method that has occurred to the
author for ameliorating the probable condition of
the laborious class of emigrants at the Cape is
that of limiting the period of service to five years,
and at the expiration of this period to grant every
man from fifty to one hundred acres, according to
his character and number of children.

Until some regulation of this kind be made,
the laborer should be careful not to bind himself
to many years* servitude, as well as to stipulate
with his conductor for twenty or thirty acres
of land, when his time of service shall have ex-
pired.

INDEX

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

Page

Agnes, prevalent near rivers

• t

Preventives of

• '

Albany, description of

• *

Population of

• ' i

Wages at

Rent and taxes at

Ale, easily brewed in the Western States

•

A preventive to the agne

Alleghany Mountains, described

Inhabitants of

Habitations df

America, described by Doctor Franklin

Salary of the president, judges, &c.

Taverns of, described

•

Number of sheep in

•

mills, &c. in

• 4

Population of

No established religion iii

•

Expense of living in large cities in, equal tc

England

Aborigines of . . .

•

Amount of exports and imports in

1817

Americans, lower class of, addicted to drinking

Great travellers

Their gasconade

Their general character

Animals {fVild), of Illinois territory

Indiana ditto

•

Ohio ditto . .

9. 56

,111'

334

Pagt

dirk, descriptba and price of an

Artlclett imported free of duty

Baltimore, best port to arrive at . . .

Population . ...

. S(J

. 78

Steam boats

Wages and board of mechanics

Severity of winters at . .

Route to Cincinnati

Birkbeck, Mr. his letter to Mr. Fearon

Price of cattle near the residence of .

. SO

. 34

His residence described

His plan of offering portions of land to emi

grants . . .

State of thermometer at . .

Number of newspapers, and expense of ,

Cattle, mode of collecting by salt

Price of, &c. in Pennsylvania

Ditto, near Mr. Birkbeck 's settlement .

. 31-

Ditto, in Illinois . . . .

Ditto, at New York . . . .

, Ditto, in Ohio State . . .

.58

Ditto, at Pittsburg . . ,

Cent, value of a . . . .

Charlestotvn, state of thermometer at . . .

Cincinnati, description of . . .

18.

Its distance from several places ,

Population, &c. .

19.

Exports and imports .

Value of improved land, near to

20.

Price of provisions at ( 1 8 1 8)

Produce of land near to . . .

Emigrant society at . . .

Expense of education at

Number and price of newspapers

335

QHcinnati, mode of ahopkeeping . ?i'//Jte u

Mr. Fearon's ideas as to the eligibility of, for
emigrants •

Coal, universal . • • •

Cotton, mode of cultivation . .

Climate suitable for .

Grown by most farmers in the Western
States . • • •

Page
60

00
8
8
8

Dollar, value of .

Emigrants, of small property, remarks upon

Intending to farm should carry out seeds

Climate best adapted to

Should not remain long at large towns

Should avoid inebriation .

What likely to succeed . . 7. 29. 37.

Number of, in one vessel

General instructions to . > .

Certificate to be obtained by

Number of, to Western Territory

Success of an Irish, at Pittsburg

Account of one at Philadelphia

farms, directions for choosing • • •

Price of . • • •

Fearon, Mr. his remarks upon Mr. Birkbeck's account .
Flaof, cultivated by many farmers
Frankfort, heat and rain at . . ' .

Harvest, the periods of .

Hops, grow wild in the M^estcrn States

4. 43

24. 44

64, 63

5
6

flllia j'

SSG

Ili'mo'u territory, extent and population

Rivera . . , '

"^ * Soil, timber, &c. . ,

Minerals

Price of salt

Wild animals

Produce

Towns of .

Average produce . , .

Value of stock, and produce , .

Price of labor . .

Time of harvest

Expense of freight by the steam boats

Expense of building, &c.

Classes of inhabitants .

State of the thermometer

State of society ,

Recommended by Mr. Fearon
Indiana territory, extent and population
Prairies of, described
Timber

Price of provisions, &c. .
Climate , . .

Produce . .

Wild animals
Game, abundance of
, Mineral springs

Katkaskia (Town), description of
Kentucky (State), not adapted for English emigrants
Population

Pag*
25
25
20
20
27
27
27. 62
61
62
62
62
62
Oi
63
63
63
63
69
22. 24
23
23
21.
24
2*
24
24
25

6f
27
77

Laborert, remarks upon

Become farmers, if prudent

3
12

f /

337

Png«
25
25
20
2d
27
27
, 62
61
62
62
62
62
63
03
63
63
63
69
24
23
23
21.
24
•2*
24
24
25

Laiorers, wngen of. compared with prices of prorWon. .
Ijand*, unsettled, price of

Partly cleared, price of

Mode of clearing , ,
Land to*, amount of

Manchester (^^nglandj, heat and rain at
Manufactoriea, at Pittsburg
MineraU, of tlje lUinois territory .

Ohio State

Pennsylvania
MisaoHri, recommended for a settlement

New»papen, at Mr. Birkbcck's setUement
Cincinnati
Ohio State
iVw York (State), population of '
New York (City), wages at
Rents and taxes at
What classes of emigrants likely to succeed at
Capital requisite to commence business, and

remarks
Expense of living
Price of goods
Cattle, &c.
State of thermometer, &c.
Prices of provisions
Population

13
10
10
10
10. 33. 54

70
51
26
22
46
7

59
22
76

38. 40

37
37. 40

3P
39

40
74
76

Ohio (State), wild animals

Fruit aid vegetables
Constitution of
Description of

9. 56
II
14
18

338

Ohio (Siate), Umber

Timber and soil . • •

Minerals . • • *

Population • . .

Newspapers • • *

Price of land

Improved land and nature of improvement*

Corn, &c. . . • •

Expense of rearing cattle •

Price of labor . • • •

Price of wood • • •

/ Climate and state of thermometer .
Classes of inhabitants
Average produce of land
Price of cattle
Management of farms
Mode of continuing slavery
Ohio (river), description of . , •

Orchards, peach and apple, method of planting
Put under the plough .

Page
18. 5S
22. 54
22

22
22
54 •
. 55
35
55
55
55
56
50
58
58
58
58
9. 77
5
45

Philadelphia, population, and price of provisionr

Account of an English emigrant at
Pittsburg; distance of, from several places

Wages at • , •

Success of an Irish emigrant at

Description of, &c.

Prices of provisions, &c.

Farming, &c.

Price of land, stock, &c.

Expense of building

Manufactories at . • •

Trade, rents of houses, &c.

Prosperity of, compared to that of New York

A brewery and pottery likely to succeed

42.

28.

43
1

50-

339

PUtabitrg, price of })eer

Wages of journeymen, and the state of tirefr
* trade*

■ • •

Population of . .

Kemarks upon , . *-;»>•.* M,^i^ ^nn^'V
Wages at, compared with Mr. Birkbeck's ac-
count .

Dir'ance and route from, to the mouth of the
Ohio
Population ej/" Albany

America

• • •

Baltimore . ,

Illinois territory
Indiana, ditto . ,

Kentucky, ditto
1 New York (City)

Ditto, (State)
Ohio territory
Philadelphia
Pittsburg
Western territory
Pfincetown, description of . j

Provisions, low price of, disadvantageous to farmers
Price of at Cincinnati

Illinois territory
Indiana ditto
New York
Ohio territory .
Philadelphia
Pittsburg
Western territory
Pumpkins, mode of planting, price of

Pag«

53
5S

77
41
30

36, 7fl
J?5

22. 24
77
76
76
22
42. 76
53

71.

Rent, 8fc. of houses at Albany
New York
Pittsburg

Z <-Z

42
37

340

Settlements^ progress of . • • •

To be purchased on moderate terms
Requisite capital per acre for forming

Settlers, to avoid dew and rain

Shawnee Town, description of .

Sheep, number of, in America and Great Britain

Steam boats, rate of travelling by .

Expense of freight . •

Sugar, cultivation of, rapidly increasing

Recommended . ,
Climate adapted for

Thermometer, state of, at Mr. Birkbeck's settlement

Charlestown

Frankfort . ..

Illinois territory

Manchester

New York

Ohio territory . . .

Tradesmen emigrating without capital, remarks upon
Travelling, expense of . . # ^

Wages of mechanics, 8(C. at Albany

Baltimore . •- *'

Illinois territory . .

New York . •

Ohio territory
Philadelphia

Pittsburg . . .

Waggons, mode of travelling in
Water, method of ascertaining the purity of
Western territory,

Preference given to
Population of
Price of provisions
Manners of inhabitants

. 6.

28. 49,

Page
d
8

r.i

31. 61
36
31
63
8
35
4. 8

34
75
75
63
76
40
56
S
30. 34

41
37
62
38. 40
55
42
53. 64
2
5

4. 7

13.77

Western territory, number of emigrants to

Number of acres unsold in 181 1» and price
Directions for choosing a farm

Wooi, manufacture of, increasing

Pigt
17
17
2$
95

CANADA,

AnimaU, CWild) account of

Cattle, description of
Climate of Lower Canada

Upper ditto

Kingston

Montreal

Newark

Quebec

Queenstown

•86

85, 86. 105

. 100. 103

. ' 102

106

103, 104

106

104<

French Canadians, description of . . .

Their habitations
Manners

■ * • •

Ditto, compared with English and American
French (Language) generally spoken in Lower Canada
Fruit and Fegetables

Game Laws, none .

Ginseng, account of .

Government and Constitution of Lower Canada

Upper ditto

Indians, number of

Imports and Exports, description of

Amount of . . ,

DittoofUppei Canada (ISO?) • .

05
95
95
106
05
96, 97

88
105

101

34>2

Kingston, description of . . . .

Number of houses . .

'' Hospitality at

Unhealthy

Barren neighbourhood

Lake Superior, extent of . .

Ontario, quantity of lish in .

Land, quantity under cultivation in Lower Canada
Price of . .

Meat, preserved in snow
Minerals of Lower Canada

Upper ditto
Montreal, description of . . .

, Navigation to, tedious

Population

Price of land near to . i.

Orchards . . » .

Produce

Climate

Newark, description of . .

Number of houses . .

Unhealthy

Trade
A7a^ora (/ZiWr), description of

Falls of . .

Banks of, their produce

Climate .

State of thermometer

Population, of Upper Canada

Lower ditto . :

Quebec > . . .

Pot and Pearl Ash, method of making

Comparative quantity produced from each

Page
101
102
102
102
106

85
102

88
89, 90

97
96

105
89
89
89
89
90
90

106

103
103
103
104
104
104
104
104
105

88
88
89
91

species o

e\\ wTCkCtc

343

Quebec, description of . . .

Population

State of society

Newspapers

Average produce of com

Price of beer, hops, 8ic.

Provisions, &c.

Rent of houses

Price of bread

Route from, to Upper Canada .

Road from, to Montreal described

State of thermometer
Queenstown, description of . . .

Unhealthy

Religion, every, toLi'ated

Of Lower Canada, Catholic

Saint Laurence (River)

Frozen over

Description of

Compared with the rivers of the United
States

Steam boats . .

Navigation of

Rapids of
Settlements confined to the banks of rivers, &c.
Sleighs or Sledges, description of
Soil of Lower Canada

Upper ditto
Sorelle, description of ,

Number of houses

Ship building at
Sugar, (Maple) method of procuring

Quantity from each tree
Stock, (LivfJ return f>f. in Lovv'.t (,'anuda

Page

9.'*

93, 94-

100

105

106

104-. 107

104.

96
96

97, 98

100

101

106

87
89
90
99
99
09, ICO
91
01
88

344

Page

Sun/iowera, oil extracted from . .

Mode of planting

Ta.tes ....

ITiermometer, state of, in Lower Canada . 85, 86, 87

Newark . .

106

Quebec . ...

106

Timber, description of . ' , .

Tobavco, generally cultivated, price of, &c.

Trade, nature of, to United States

Trots Revieres, description of

Population . ,

•

fTheat, kmount of, exported

Price of at Quebec

York, description of

107

beat of government for Upper Canada

107

Number of houses

107

CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

Agriculturist, directions for the
Aloes, their abundance

The juice of, formerly an article of export
Animals, (^fVild), description of

Mode of catching the elephant, &c. .

Their depredations

Abound near Plettenberg Bay .

Not often seen by travellers in the daytime

Tigers seldom attack men

Fences and railings no impediment to the ele
phant and rhinoceros
Auteniequaland, description of ;

Soil, &c. . .

213
128
138
128
129
182
193
194
198

202

14-4, 145

146

345

Baya on the southern coast, afford but little shelter
False, description of
' Penguins on the islands of •

Table, description of ♦

Saldanha, description of
P/e«<7«icr;^, timber in the neighbourhood of 125. 19 'i
Soil in ditto . . 139

Wild animals, &c. . . 193

Vessels employed to convey

Pige
112
112. 151
132
112. 151
112. 135

timber from

. 194.

211

Unsafe

. 194.

211

Mossel, description of neighbouring cou

ntry 1 38.

190

Dep6t for corn at

190

Algoa, description of

. 142.

147

Lead mine near to, account of

143

Birds, description of

. 129.

131

Bvajeamens, Svvarm in the back settlements

•

104

Description of . ,

169

Derivation of their name

169

Mode of existence . ♦

169

Language .

170

Activity

170

Weapons of, dipped in poison

170

Their diminutive stature

170

Cattle on the Karroo plains exposed

to the

depredations of

136

Caffraria, description of ,

204

Capital of, near the Great Fish River

173

Caffres, territory of

171

Dwellings . ,

171

Character

171

Weapons

171

Habits of life . *

171

Diet, &c. . ,

172

Cattle

172

Commerce . ,

172

Stature and appearance .

173

346

Page
Caffrcs, stature aud appearance of the females . 173

Faroishouse destroyed by the . . 201

Danger of the . . . 20*2

Cattle> stolen by . . . 204

Plan of government, to promote confidence in

the . . , 204.

,Ca^^/&, description of . . 128. 131

Larger in the elevated dfstricts than on plains 128

Loss of, in the Cafire war, 17 99 . 154

Taxes upon . . .166

C/i»JO/e, account of . , . 114.207.208

Deaths, average, at Cape Town
Diseases, account of at Cape Town
Districts, Cape, (description of

Stellenbosch and Tulbagh

Zwellendam

George

Graaff Reynet

Uitenhagen

General table of the

114
117

118. 129

120. 132

121, 122. 137

121

122. 141

122

149

Education at Cape Town, &c. . .

In Graaff Reynet
Exchange, in favor of England
Exports and Imports, account of the

Farms, situation of some of the, extremely lonely
Account of, in the Cape district

Producing llic Constantia wine
f^ne, description of

Expense of purchase, and returns of
Grain, description of

Produce of . .

A.fode of husbandry of

Expense of purchase, and retisriis af

154
167
174
151

129
130
157
158
160
160
161
162

347

Page

Farmf, description. of the^ in the Lange Kloof . • HO. 196

OfMr. Linde . . 181

Mr. Van Ass . 187

, Mr. Lombard . 188

Mr. P. duPrecz . 189

Mr. C. duPreez . 189

i Mr. Alexander . 190, 191

Mr. Rex . . 192, 193
Of one in the Lange Kloof

for sale . . 197

Of the, of Mr. Van Roy . 199

Of Mr, Scheperjun. 201,202

Dr. Mackrill . 204

FUhf what species of, brought to market . . 131

Whale, abound in the bays . . . 1 32

FrKj7«, 8fc. description of . • 127. 130

Fuel, scarcity of, in the Cape district . . 1 2.5

Mode of procuring, and expense of . . 125

Galgenbosch, description of . . .199

Grain, what species of, generally cultivated . . 1 30

Government depot for, at Mossel Bay . 191.211

Grain farmers, description of . . , . 160

Generally occupy loan farms . . 1 60

Taxes . . . . 160

Produce of farms ' . . . 1 60

Miserable agriculturists . . 1 60

Average return of corn . . . 161

Manners of the . . .163

Graziers, description of . . .163

Precarious nature of their property . . 164

Loss of the, by the CafFres, &c. . . 164

Habitations of . . . . 165

Manners of . . . .166

Taxes of . . . . 166

Groot fader's Bosch, description of . .188

348

Horse, description of, .

Hospital'Uy .

Hottentots, number of
Description of
Their occupations
Idleness, honesty, &c
Women of the ,

Children

Their condition ameliorated
* Are good shepherds, &c.

131
167. 198
168
168
168
169
169
169
17*. 187
212

Import duties, upon sundry articles
Insects . . 1^

Iron ore .

222
132
143

Jackalls Kraal, description of

194

Karroo plains, description of . • .

136

Lakes, Knysna, &c. description of

Salt water, description of
Landdrostf emoluments of the

Nature of the office of the
Lands, burning of the . .

Tenure of the
Lange Kloof, description of
Leather, used in lieu of cordage

Mode of making
Letters (circular) from goverament, r

Mountains, the colony intersected by
Southern chain of, described

•

113. 211

122

•

133

•

173

•

146

•

. 174, 175

•

140. 196

167

•

167

. I.

•

224

■

226

•

227

•

228

•

ISO

Hi.

125. 144, 145

349

Mountama, Zwarte Bergen, description of .
Nieutcveld Gebergte, description of

their great beiglit •

Table, description of . • <

Roggeveld, description of • ■

Bohkeveldt description of
Sneeuwberg, description of
Kamnaaie, description of
Parde Kop, description of
Merchants, of Cape Town
Mimosa Karroo, gum arabic and bark for tanning, pro

cured from
Minerals . • • •

Money, description of the, in circulation

Oaf, description of • , .

111.
111.

136

Pige

12S

iS6

112

119

ISO

130

142

140

195

152

139
143
223

131

Population, return of.

Of Cape Town
Post-office, regulations of
Provisions, prices of, at Cape Town
In the interior

Consumption of, at Cape Town

123
151. 154, 155, 156
174
. 153. 208
208
156

Religion • • • • .154

/?cr<?»MC, nature of the • • ^7** l''^, 176

Rivers, scarcely any navigable • • • ^ ^2

Generally dry in summer, and impassable

during winter
Great Fishy situation of . .

Description of
Koussie, situation of
Olifant, situation of

Description of
Berg, situation and description of

114

lOy. 201

113, 114. 210, 211

lOU

111

; 112, 135

360

Rhera, Knyana, description of .

(Jauritz, descriptiuii of
Camtoo, description of

All parts of, occupied
6'u»(/a^^ description of

, Sources af
Kous:'^, iituaticu i«i
-| Breede, situation of

Gamka, situation of
Eerste, situation of . .

Braak, description of
Sonderend, description of , ,
Leuive, situation of
Duyvenhoek, situation of
f^at, situation of .

Ztoart, description of
Gotvcomma, situation of
Klip, situation of
^ Kromm, description of

Louri, abounds with wild beasts
Van Staade, description of .
frittct description of . . .

Land near to, granted to the Mora
vians
Roads, description of, near Cape Town

In the interior

Page
113- 192, 193
113. 138. 190

113. 146
198

114. 200
142
120

120. 138. 186
120
133
144
181
186
188, 189
.189
92. 200
192
196
198
199
19P
205

205
179
195

191,

Sales, public, account of
Sheep, description of
Slaves, description of

Their condition ameliorated
Soil, description of the
Springs, chalybeate

Hot . . *

Stock, return of, in the colony

174,
110. 124. 138. 142.

158
128
170

186

146

136

181

123

dfii

115,

Taaes, at Cape Town . •

On wiiie, and wine farms . .

On gniin, and grain farms .

Simdi_ . • • •

Conversation respecting the
Thermometer, state of, at Cape Town
Timber, nature of the • •

At Groot Vader's Bosch
Tobacco, plantations of . • •

Cultivuiod by Mr. Moody at Zwellendam

Towm . • • •

Cape Town, diseases at
Climate at

State of thermometer at
Description of •

Population of
Seat of government
Wild animals at
Fish, &c. at

Classes and manners of inha-
' bitants, . 151, 152, 153. 155,

Page
154.
157
160
175
205
110
125
188
UO
208

. 114..
114..

"lis. 151.
119.

Prices of provisions at
Consumption of ditto
Taxes, &c.
Religion
Education
Sfe//ewioscA, number of houses at •

Description of

Emoluments of the landrost at
Clergyman

Paarl, description of . •

Tulbagh, description of . •

Z> //ew(/aw, description of . .

Population
George, description of

Number of houses

153.

128.
122.

117
207
115
207
207

I2y

131

156

208

156

154.

154

121

133

121

138

186

139

141

...a^

S5«

Townst Oeor/fe, population

Graajf Reyntit, description of

Distance of
Gnadenthal, description of
Population of
Oroenekloof, description of
UUeahagen, description of

Distance of
Graham'g Town, description of
Simon's Town, description of
Ca/edon, description of

Warm baths
Somerset, description of
TraveH'mg, mode of

101

122.

142

209

137.

179

137

137.

179

143.

200

209.

211

143.

210

152

181

204

184.

2J0

/1f»M, mode of cultivating

208

fVages, of laborers

Of Hottentots

fVaggona, description of
Mode of driving
Price of v.

JVater, scarcity of

JVell digging recommended

fflnds, periodical

ff^oods, catalogue of useful
Hardness of some

/(Too/, description of the

Zuurberg, description of
Zuurve/d, description of

154

210

178

179

210

no.

124

212

115

126

195

151.

164

•

199

42. 148,

209

$5S

NEW SOUTH WALES.

Pig*

Aborigines, account of the «

231

School for the education of the

436. 309

Agriculture, system of

^ 239

Agriculturist, directions for the

* 284

Animals (fFUdJ, description of

230

Bnthurst plains, description of .

26B

New route to , »

90$

Beer, expense of license for brewing

274

For retailing ,

274

Blue Mountains, description of

2i7

Elevation of , ■ ,

23t

Produce of . . ,

257

* .
Cattle, sold by government to settlers

260

Management of

Q65

Artificial food for . ,

267

Price of

268

Climate, nature of . . . ,

i243

Suitable for what . . . .

273

Coal, price of, at Newcastle i ,

254

Mines of, described ,

254

Commerce . , .

* 271. -joa

Com, what species of, usually grown

260

Average returns of, on flooded grounc

Is . 262

Cjfder, made from peachei

264

Diseases

247

Duties, nature and amount of

273. 312

Emigrants, what likely to succeed

274

A A

S54

n«e

Fish, species of . ...

•

230

Fruitt ....

263

308

Government (civil). Court of Admiralty

241

Criminal Judicature

241

Governor's Court . .

241

High Court of Appeals

241

Supreme Court

241

^ All the Courts regulated by the laws of

Eng.

land

242

Grasses, account of the natural

266

Custom of burning

267

Harvest, periods of

262

Income, of the colonists

272

Kangaroo, coursing the

250

Labor, price of . • •

Land, price of, at Sydney . • •

Windsor .

Liverpool
General price of

Unappropriated, at the Cow Pastures

Five Islands
Coal River
To the westward of the Blue

Mountains . . 257, 258

Grants of, easily procured . . 270. 3 1 1

Return of, in cultivation, &c. (1817) . 274

(1818) . ;i07

Fees upon grants of . . . 313

269
232. 269
238
240
269
251
252
253

355

lame, method of making
Price of

Page
255

Manufactories, account of
Military force, and distribution of
Minerals, account of .

242.

271
306
230

New Holland, extent of . , . . <229

When first discovered . . 229

Expense of voyage to . .311

Population of Sydney . . , 332

Parramatta . . .236

Windsor , . . 237

Liverpool . . . 239

Newcastle . . . 254

New South Wales (1817) . . 274

New South Wales and Van Diemen's (1817). 27 4

Ditto> ditto (1818) . . 307

Port Jackson harbour, description of . . 234

Provisions, 8fc. price of , . . 270. 308

Rivers, one discovered in the western territory
Hawkesbury, description of
^ Inundations of
Timber of
George, description of
Inundatitins of
Nepean, description, &c. of

Timber of
Shoal Haven, description of

Soil of
Coa/, 'description of
Coal mines of the
Lime procured at

258
237
238
251
239
239
250
251
252
253
253. 256
254
255

S5d

Page

Eherst Coal ; timber procured at

•

Q5S

Soil, &c. of .

•

256

Climate of the .

•

256

fioads, 8fc. description of the

Over the Blue Mountwns

•

997

Jlew, discovere4 to the western cottotry ,

303

5^0(?j9, management of . . . 266,. 267

Calculation of the return of capital employed

in the breeding of the fine-wooUed,

•

276

Snakes, species of

•

231

Society, nature of, in the colony . .

240

, 309

Soil, general nature of the

229

. 248

Spirits, amount of, imported

273

Expenseof license for retailing

273

Distillation prohibited .

274

Duties upon

311

Stock, return of

209

Ditto (1818)

307

Tofetvf, Sydney, first colonists arrived at

Situation of

231

Description of

338

Population of

2S2

Vsdne of land at

232

Rents of houses

232

Markets

233

Bank

233

Schools

233,

234

Likely to become a place of import-

ance

235

Views from

235

Parratnatta, situatior^ of . *

235

Description of . .

235

Buildings of

238

Inns

236

357

Page

ToteiUf Parramatt^t ]jio|mUUoo • . 236

Fairs . . . 236

School for the aborigiaeg . 2S6

fVindsor, situation of . . 237

Description of . . 237

Inn at . , 237

Population of . . 237

Rivers at , , 237

Distance of from tho scabby water « 237

Ditto by land . .238

Price of land . . . 238

Inundations of the river at . 238

Liverpool, situation of . . 239

Description of , , 239

Population of . .239

Inundations of the river at . 239

Price of land, &c. . , 240

Newcastle, situation of . .253

Population of . . 254

Inhabitants of, how employed . 254

Coals at , , 254

Lime at . . 255

Timber at . . 255

TKcrmometer, state of, at Sydney, &c. . . 243

Timber, description of . . 230. 249, 250, 25 1

Ditto, and price of, procured at Newcastle . 255

T»baccOf amount of, imported . . 273

Vegetables . . , 262

Winds, periodical , « , 243

fVool, amount exported . , .272

Price of . , . 377

Freight, &C' to England . . 282

958

VAN DIEMEN'S ISLAND.

Aborigine8, account of

Cause of their animosity to the colonists
Agriculture^ system of , ,

Animals (^fVild), description of

Bays, abound mth whale ^

Storm, description of ,

North, ditto , *

Cattle, system of rearing

Larger than at Port Jackson
Climate,
Commerce,
Court of justice, ,

Duties, nature and amount of ■
Fruit, . .

Harbours, , , .

Income of the colonists . ,

Iron Mines near Launceston

Labourers, \rages of . ,

Land, unappropriated

Average produce of

Fees upon grants of

Superior to that of New South Wales
Latitude, 8(c. of Van Diemen's

ManufacturerSf , ^^

Minerals,

287

2P8

288

291

294

300

295.

298

302

295

302.

312

299.

308

288.

290

3G2

293

301

296

299

313

298

287

302

289.

293

Pitt fVater, settlements at

294

359

Population of Van Diemen's

The Dervvent district
^ Port Dalrymple

Vim Diemen's and New South Wales (1817)

D .. (^818)

i'rovmons, &;c. prices of

Roads, mode of making
Rivers, account of the

* •

Not subject to inundations

Derwent

North Esk

South Esk

Tamar

Page

302

303

274

307

301

293
288
297
291
292
292
292

Soil, Sfc. nature of

287. 296

Ta6le Mountain, description of

Elevation
Thermometer, st&te of
Timber,

Towns, Hobart, description of
Population

Situation of

• • — — «

Distance of, and road from, to Launceston 293

Za««m^o», description of . , 292

Population of , , ggg

Iron mines near to . . 293

fVhales, caught within sight of Hobart Town . 292

290
290

296
298
289
289
289

Observations

THE END.

LONDON:

TRINTEDBV THOMAS nAVISON^ WHmrRIARS,

■*rjn:

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