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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

Microsoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/colesscarboroughOOcoleiala 


COLE's 


£carf>orougt)  <@uitre* 


"  How  great  the  joy  to  view  the  scene, 
The  yellow  strand — the  ocean  green — 
The  sparkling  wave— the  swelling  sail, 
That  spreads  to  catch  the  favouring  gale  !" 

Poetical  Sketcfws  of  Scarborough. 


SCARBOROUGH: 


PUBLISHED  BY  JOHN  COLE,  LIBRARY,  NEW- 
BOROUGH-STREET; 

And  by  Longman,  Hurst,  Rees,  Orme,  Brown,  &  Green,  London. 

1825. 


lireface. 


It  is  the  laudable  custom  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Scarborough  to  clean  up  their  houses  just  before 
the  commencement  of  each  season,  which  opera- 
tion is  denominated  "  thorough  cleaning:"  and  in 
order  to  be  on  a  par  with  them  in  the  "  thorough 
clean"  of  literature,  we  have  given  our  Guide  a 
revise  and  reprint,  and  most  respectfully  submit 
it  to  the  inspection  of  the  visitants  of  this  romantic 
watering-place,  hoping  the  contents  will  prove 
useful  and  attractive — as  they  describe  scenes 

"  which,  daily  viewed, 
Please  daily,  and  whose  novelty  survives 
Long  knowledge,  and  the  scrutiny  of  years." 


i 

A 

SKETCH 


OF   THE 

HISTORY  OF  SCARBOROUGH. 


.  "  Here  earth  and  sea, 


Mingling  their  charms  majestically  rude, 
With  pleasing  wonder  strike  the  pensive  eye 
Of  contemplation,  and  exalt  the  mind." 

Fostbr. 


Scarborough  is  situated  in  the  recess  of  a  beautiful  bay, 
on  the  borders  of  the  German  Ocean,  in  a  position  nearly 
central  between  Flamborough-Head  and  Whitby.  This 
part  of  the  coast,  almost  forty  miles  in  extent,  is  bold, 
varied,  and  rocky,  with  many  points  of  considerable  ele- 
vation. The  line  is  undulating,  indented  with  sandy  bays 
formed  by  the  action  of  the  sea,  where  the  land  is  of  loose 
texture. 


2  SCARBOROUGH. 

The  town  rises  from  the  shore  in  the  form  of  an  am- 
phitheatre, and  has  a  romantic  appearance  on  the  con- 
cave slope  of  it's  semicircular  bay.  It  is  laved  at  the  foot 
by  the  waves,  and  much  admired  for  it's  varied  beauties. 

There  is  no  authentic  account  in  history  of  the  founda- 
tion of  Scarborough,  though  it  may  reasonably  be  pre- 
sumed that  it  had  as  early  an  origin  as  most  of  the  places 
bordering  on  the  German  ocean ;  and,  notwithstanding  the 
omission  of  it's  name  in  Doomsday-book,  we  have  histo- 
rical proof  of  it's  existence  previously  to  the  Norman  Con- 
quest. The  building  of  the  castle  by  William,  Earl  of 
Albermarle,  in  the  year  1136,  is  the  first  evidence  of  it's 
emerging  from  its  previous  state  of  obscurity.  The  grant 
of  a  Charter  of  Incorporation  of  Henry  II.,  in  the  year 
1181,  is  a  convincing  proof  that  it  must  then  have  been  a 
place  of  some  importance. 

The  following  account  of  it,  is  extracted  from  the  Iti- 
nerary of  Leland  : — 

"  Scardeburg  Toune  though  it  be  privilegid,  yet  it 
semith  to  be  yn  Pickering  Lithe,  for  the  Castelle  of  Scar- 
deburgh  is  countid  of  the  jurisdiction  of  Pickering,  and  the 
shore  from  Scardeburgh  to  the  very  point  of  Philaw-Bridge* 
by  the  Se  about  vj  miles  from  Scardeburgh  toward  Brid- 
lington is  of  Pickering  Lith  jurisdiction.  Scardeburgh 
where  it  is  not  defendid  by  the  Warth  and  the  Se  is 
waulled  a  little  with  ston,  but  most  with  ditches  and  walls 
of  yerth.     In  the  toune  to  entre  by  land  be  but  2  gates  : 

•  Fi  ley-Bridge. 
.  a 


SCARBOBpilGH.  3 

Newburgh  Gate,  meately  good,  and  Aldeburgh  Gate,  very 
base.  The  Toune,  stondith  hole*  on  a  slaty  clife;  and' 
shoith  very  fair  to  the  Se  side.  Ther  is  but  one  Parothe 
Chircht  in  the  Town,  of  our  Lady,  joyning  almost  to  the 
Castelle :  it  is  very  faire  and  isled  on  the  sides  and 
cross  isled,  and  hath  3  auncient  Towres  for  belles  with 
Pyramides  on  them :  whereof  t  Toures  be  at  the  west  end 
of  the  Chirch,  and  one  in  the  middle  of  the  cross  isle. 
There  is  a  great  chapelle  by  side  by  the  Newborow  Gate." 
The  town  of  Scarborough  was  anciently  confined  within 
narrow  limits.  Some  of  the  foundations  of  it's  ancient 
walls  are  yet  remaining,  and  may  be  traced  with  sufficient 
accuracy ;  from  which  it  is  evident,  that  the  Old  Town  did 
not  extend  westward  beyond  the  situation  of  the  present 
Market-cross. 

*  Wholly.  t  St.  Mary's. 


THE  CASTLE. 


-"  Thou  hast  seen  Mount  Atlas : 


Whilst  storms  and  tempests  thunder  on  Its  brow, 
And  oceans  break  their  billows  at  its  feet, 
It  stands  unmov'd,  and  glories  in  its  height." 


This  Castle  was  built  in  the  reign  of  King  Stephen,  about 
the  year  1136,  by  William  le  Gros,  Earl  of  Albermarle 
and  Holderness,  a  nobleman  of  Norman  extraction,  who, 
having  extensive  demesnes  in  this  part  of  Yorkshire  and 
in  Holderness,  obtained  permission  of  the  King  to  erect  a 
fortress  upon  the  sea-coast. 

Ancient  historians  have  been  liberal  in  their  praises  of 
this  Castle.  William  of  Newburg,  a  Monkish  historian, 
who  wrote  about  A.  D.  1190,  has  given  the  following  de- 
scription of  it : — 

"  A  rock  of  wonderful  height  and  bignesse,  and  inac- 
cessible by  reason  of  steepe  cragges  almost  on  every  side, 
stands  into  the  sea,  which  quite  surrounds  it,  but  in  one 
place,  where  a  narrow  slip  of  land  gives  access  to  it  on  the 
west.    It  has  on  the  top,  a  pleasant  plain,  grassy  and  spa- 


SCARBOROUGH.  5 

cious,  of  about  sixty  acre9  or  upward*,  and  a  little  well  of 
frtesh  water  springing  from  a  rock  in  it.  In  the  very  entry, 
which  puts  one  to  some  pains  to  get  up,  stands  a  stately 
tower ;  and  beneath  the  entry,  the  city  begins,  spreading 
it's  two  sides  south  and  north,  and  carrying  it's  front 
westward,  where  it  is  fortified  with  a  wall :  but  on  the 
east  is  fenced  by  that  rock,  where  the  Castle  stands ;  and, 
lastly,  on  both  sides  by  the  sea.  William,  sumamed  le 
Gros,  Earl  of  Albemarle  and  Holderness,  observing  this 
place  to  be  fitly  situated  for  building  a  Castle  on,  increased 
the  natural  strength  of  it  by  a  very  costly  work,  having 
inclosed  all  the  plain  upon  the  rock  with  a  wall,  and  built 
a  Tower  in  the  entrance.  But  this  being  decayed  and 
fallen  by  the  weight  of  too  much  age,  King  Henry  II. 
commanded  a  great  and  brave  Castle  to  be  built  upon  the 
same  spot.  For  he  had  now  reduced  the  Nobility  of 
England,  who  during  the  loose  reign  of  King  Stephen  had 
impaired  the  revenues  of  the  crown ;  but  especially  this 
William  of  Albemarle,  who  lorded  it  over  all  these  parts, 
and  kept  this  place  as  his  own." 

The  promontory  on  which  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  Castle 
are  situated,  is  bounded  on  three  sides  by  the  German 

*  The  present  area  of  the  Castle-yard  does  not  exceed  19  acres 
5  perches.  There  is,  therefore,  probably  some  mistake  in  New- 
burgh's  description.  The  ancient  accounts  of  acres  are  generally 
very  imperfect. 

Young  and  Bird,  in  their  "  Geological  Survey  of  the  Yorkshire 
Coast,"  are  also  of  opinion  that  there  is  a  mistake  in  Newburgh's 
account,  and  that  this  lofty  promontory  "  has  not  undergone  any 
material  change  during  the  last  six  centuries." 


6  SCARBOROUGH. 

ocean,  and  elevated  more  than  three  hundred  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  presenting  to  the  north,  the  east,  and 
the  south,  a  vast  sweep  of  craggy  perpendicular  rocks, 
totally  inaccessible*. 

Within  the  castle-walls  rises  a  stately  tower,  majestic 
even  in  ruin.  This  tower,  which  has  been  the  Keep,  is  a 
square  Norman  building,  ninety  feet  high,  and  has  former- 
ly had  an  embattled  parapet.  The  walls  are  about  twelve 
feet  thick,  cased  with  squared  stones  ;  and  the  mortar  hav- 
ing been  mixed,  according  to  the  custom  of  the  ancients,  in  a 
fluid  state,  has  become  more  durable  than  even  the  stone  of 
the  building.  There  appears  to  have  been  three  Btories  or 
very  lofty  rooms,  one  over  another,  each  room  between 
twenty  and  thirty  feet  high,  and  ten  yards  square  within 
the  walls,  with  recesses.  The  remains  of  a  very  large 
fire-place  are  visible  in  the  lower  apartment.  The  subter- 
raneous room,  or  dungeon,  is  nearly  filled  up  with  stones 
and  earth.  The  different  stories  have  been  vaulted,  and 
divided  by  strong  arches ;  and  private  passages  are  visible 

*  The  following  extract  of  a  letter  to  the  compiler,  will  show 
in  what  estimation  this  modern  Bain  is  held  by  strangers:  "Scar- 
borough is  exactly  suited  to  one  who  loves  to  look  back  into  the 
splendour  of  former  times,  and  who  enjoys  the  sports  of  nature  , 
there  is  a  fine  field  in  the  romantic  cliffs  of  that  much-frequented 
bathing-place.  I  never  enjoyed  myself  so  much  as  when  ram- 
bling amongst  the  dangerous  paths  on  the  hill  next  to  the  sea, 
whereon  is  situated  the  Castle  (by-the-by  this  reminds  me,  that 
if  you  could  procure  forme  a  half-crown  of  Charles  I.,  struck 
»t  Scarborough,  I  should  be  glad  to  have  it)." 


SCARBOROUGH.  7 

in  some  of  the  intervals  of  the  casing  of  the  walls.  Th» 
windows  have  semicircular  arches,  supported  by  round 
pillars,  and  are  larger  than  usual  in  such  buildings,  being 
six  feet  deep  and  three  feet  broad. 

In  turning  from  the  mouldering  remains  of  antiquity,  the 
eye  is  relieved,  and  the  mind  exhilarated  by  the  charms  of 
the  surrounding  prospect.  The  diversified  scenes  of  the 
adjacent  country  ;  the  romantic  appearance  of  the  town ; 
the  sands  enlivened  by  various  objects,  and  the  unbounded 
view  of  the  ocean,  form  collectively  an  assemblage  beau- 
tiful beyond  conception. 

"  What  does  not  fade  i    The  tower,  that  long  hath  stood 
The  crush  of  thunder  and  the  warring  winds, 
Shook  by  the  slow  but  sure  destroyer  Time, 
Now  hangs  in  doubtful  ruins  o'er  it's  base  : 
And  flinty  pyramids,  and  walls  of  brass 

Descend the  Babylonian  spires  are  sunk  ; 

Achaia,  Rome,  and  Egypt  moulder  down.— 

Time  shakes  the  stable  tyranny  of  thrones, 

And  tottering  empires  crush  by  their  own  weight : 

This  huge  rotundity  we  tread,  grows  old  j 

And  all  those  worlds  that  roll  around  the  sun  :--- 

The  snn  itself  shall  die ;  and  ancient  night 

Again  involve  the  desolate  abyss." 

The  following  are  the  observations  of  a  Geologist : 
Few  situations  on  the  eastern  shores  of  England  enjoy  so 
fine  a  prospect  of  grand  and  beautiful  nature  as  Scar- 
borough.    From   the  Castle  hill,  which  stands  lofty  and 
alone,  a  variety  of  noble  objects  present  themselves  on 


8  SCARBOROUGH. 

every  side ;  high  and  shadowy  moorlands  on  the  north, 
bold  hills  with  abrupt  faces  to  the  west,  and  rocky  cliffs 
stretching  southward  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  all 
combine  in  one  grand  panorama.  Perhaps  the  most  strik- 
ing feature  is  the  range  of  chalk  hills  which  sweep  round 
from  Wilton  Beacon,  skirt  the  south  side  of  the  vale  of 
Pickering  to  the  sea  near  Speeton,  and  running  thence  to 
Flamborough,  majestically  breast  the  tempestuous  ocean. 

Scarborough  presents  to  those  fond  of  sketching,  an 
imposing  object  in  its  Castle,  which  is  worthy  of  the  exer- 
cise of  the  pencil  of  the  disciple  of  a  Wouvermanns  or  a 
Murant. 

There  were  formerly  here  four  Convents,  four  Churches, 
and  two  Hospitals  ;  viz.  Convent  of  the  Cistercians,  of  the 
Franciscan  or  Grey  Friars,  of  the  Dominican  or  Black 
Friars,  and  of  the  Carmelite  or  White  Friars.  The  Church 
of  St  Nicholas,  St.  Thomas  the  Martyr,  (with  the  two 
Hospitals,  their  appendages,  of  the  same  name)  and  the 
Churches  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  St.  Mary*. 

The  Corporation  of  Scarborough  consists  of  two  Bailiffs, 
two  Coroners,  four  Chamberlains,  and  thirty-six  Common 
Council. — It's  charter  is  dated  22d  November,  1356,  30th 
Edward  III. 

The  election  of  Representatives  to  serve  in  Parliament 
for  the  Borough,  is  vested  exclusively  in  the  Corporation, 

*  The  ancient  view  of  the  town  of  Scarborough,  in  the  reign  of 
Richard  III.,  from  a  drawing  in  the  British  Museum,  lately  pub- 
lished by  the  Proprietor  of  this  work,  shows  the  situation  of  these 
Convents. 


SCARBOROUGH.  9 

by  a  decision  of  the  House  of  Commons ;  an  account  of  the 
grounds  of  which  determination  may  be  seen  in  Hinder- 
well's  History  of  Scarborough. 

The  Arms  of  the  Borough  bear  the  marks  of  great  anti- 
quity. A  Ship  of  the  rudest  form,  a  Watch-tower,  and  a 
Star  appear  on  the  Common  Seal.  It's  registry  in  the 
Herald's  Office  is  without  date,  and  it  is  there  classed 
among  the  most  ancient.  The  Bailiffs'  Seal  of  Office  is  a 
Ship  only,  of  a  very  antique  form,  with  two  Towers  on  the 
deck,  and  a  smaller  one  at  the  top  of  the  mast. 

The  maritime  situation  of  Scarborough,  and  the  diversity 
of  soil  and  aspect  in  the  vicinity,  afford  an  ample  field  for 
the  investigations  of  the  naturalist.  The  neighbouring 
heights  produce  several  of  the  rare  alpine  plants  ;  and  the 
woods  near  Hackness,  a  variety  of  species  peculiar  to  the 
north :  beside  these,  the  shores  and  the  extensive  rocks 
on  the  coast  furnish  a  long  list  of  marine  plants  and  other 
natural  productions,  a  catalogue  of  which  (drawn  up  by 
W.  Travis,  Esq.  of  Scarborough)  is  appended  to  Hinder- 
well's  History.  For  a  Treatise  on  the  Minerals  and  Fossils 
of  the  Coast,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  Rev.  F.  Kendall's 
Descriptive  Catalogue*,  in  an  8vo.  volume,  embellished 
with  coloured  plates,  now  out  of  print,  and  consequently 
scarce.  Mr.  J.  Phillips,  Lecturer  on  Geology,  who  has 
been  for  some  time  resident  in  Scarborough,  has  expressed 

*  Published  by  subscription,  in  1816,  8vo.  21s.    There  were  a 
few  copies  with  extra  plates  from  Sowerby's  Mineralogy,  at  42s, 


10  SCARBOROUGH. 

his  intention  of  compiling  a  new  Catalogue  ;  which,  from 
his  peculiar  study  in  this  branch  of  natural  history,  would 
no  doubt  prove  highly  valuable. 

TRADE. 

Scarborough,  though  in  possession  of  a  convenient 
port,  has  a  restricted  commerce.  The  vicinity  of  sterile 
moors,  and  a  neighbouring  district  far  from  populous, 
without  any  water  communication  with  the  interior  coun- 
try, present  formidable  impediments  to  the  spirit  of  enter- 
prize.  Shipping,  and  it's  dependencies,  are  the  principal 
branches  in  which  the  inhabitants  are  most  generally  in- 
terested. Ship-building  forms  an  important  object  of  em- 
ployment, and  is  a  great  source  of  emolument ;  but  it  is 
precarious,  and  subject  to  sudden  fluctuations. 

The  only  manufactures  in  the  place  are  those  imme- 
diately connected  with  shipping.  There  are  two  of  cordage, 
and  one  of  sail-cloth.  The  markets  are  twice  in  the  week, 
viz.  on  Thursday  and  Saturday.  They  are  abundantly  sup- 
plied with  excellent  provisions  of  every  kind. 

The  commerce  of  the  port  is  principally  confined  to  ex- 
ports of  Corn,  Butter  in  firkins,  Hams,  Bacon,  and  Salt- 
Fish  ;  and  imports  of  Coals  from  Newcastle  and  Sunder- 
land ;  Timber,  Deal,  Flax,  and  Iron  from  the  Baltic ; 
Brandy  and  Geneva  from  Holland  ;  Wine  from  Portugal, 
via  Hull ;  and  Groceries  from  London. 


SCAHBOftOUGH.  1] 

CHARITABLE  INSTITUTIONS. 

There  is  no  deficiency  of  sympathetic  attention  to  the 
miseries  of  the  lower  orders  of  the  community  in  Scar- 
borough. Frequent  collections  are  made  for  the  poor,  par- 
ticularly in  the  winters ;  and,  though  a  few  instances  of  a 
penurious  disposition  may  occur,  yet  there  is  in  general  a 
distinguished  liberality  of  spirit. 

The  establishments  of  Charitable  Institutions  have,  also, 
been  laudably  encouraged  ;  and  it  is  hoped,  that  such  as 
are  calculated  for  the  improvement  of  the  morals  of  the 
rising  generation  will  ever  flourish. 

THE  AMICABLE  SOCIETY, 

consisting  of  more  than  200  Members,  for  clothing  and 
educating  the  Children  of  the  Poor  of  Scarborough,  is  a 
very  useful  institution.  It  was  founded  in  the  year  1729, 
by  the  late  Robert  North,  Esq.,  a  gentleman  of  exemplary 
piety  and  benevolence,  and  is  under  the  government  of  a 
President,  four  Trustees,  and  four  Wardens,  annually 
elected.  The  Fund  for  its  annual  support  arises  from 
weekly  subscriptions  of  the  Members,  collections  made  in 
Church*,  and  other  voluntary  donations. 

The  children  thus  clothed,  and  now  in  the  schools,  are 
seventy-eight. 

.  *  Two  Charity  Sermons  are  preached  in  the  summer  for  the 
benefit  of  the  Children. 


12  SCARBOROUGH. 

Experience  has  proved  the  utility  of  this  establishment, 
in  preserving  the  children  from  the  contagion  of  vicious  ex- 
amples, and  leading  them  into  the  paths  of  holiness  and  so- 
cial duty.  Instead  of  becoming  victims  of  profligacy,  and 
pests  to  the  community,  many  of  them  have  filled  useful 
occupations  in  life  with  credit  and  advantage.  Several,  by 
means  of  the  rudiments  of  their  education  at  this  semi- 
nary, have  attained  a  competent  knowledge  of  Navigation, 
which  has  qualified  them  for  mates  and  commanders  of 
vessels.  These  have,  eventually,  become  the  patrons  of 
the  institution,  and  benefactors  to  succeeding  generations. 
Others  have  fought  the  naval  battles  of  their  country,  and, 
by  their  bravery,  contributed  to  it's  security  and  independ- 
ence. Whether,  therefore,  it  be  considered  in  a  moral  or 
in  a  political  light,  it  deserves  a  generous  patronage. 

THE  SEAMEN'S  HOSPITAL. 

was  erected  in  the  year  1752,  by  the  Ship-Owners  of  Scar- 
borough, for  the  use  of  aged  and  decayed  seamen,  their  wi- 
dows, and  children.  It  is  a  neat  commodious  building,  in 
an  airy  situation,  to  the  north  of  the  town.  The  fund  for 
it's  maintenance  arises  from  the  contribution  of  sixpence 
per  month,  paid  by  the  owner  of  every  ship  belonging  to  the 
port  of  Scarborough,  for  each  person  on  board,  during  the 
time  the  ship  is  at  sea,  or  in  actual  service.  It  is  under 
the  direction  of  a  President  and  Trustees,  annually  elected, 
and  is  subordinate  to  the  Trinity-House,  Deptford-Strond. 


SCARBOROUGH.  13 

SEA-BATHING  INFIRMARY.  ->j 

To  the  establishment  of  a  general  Sea-Bathing  Infir- 
mary at  Margate  in  1796,  for  the  use  of  the  diseased  poor, 
we  may  refer  the  institution  of  a  similarly  praise-worthy 
institution  at  Scarborough  in  the  year  1811,  of  which  the 
Archbishop  of  York,  and  the  Duke  of  Leeds,  are  Patrons  ; 
and  the  Duchess  of  Leeds,  and  Lady  Grantham,  Patronesses ; 
Earl  Fitzwilliam,  President ;  and  I^ord  Middleton  ;  G.  A.  H. 
Cavendish,  M.  P.  ;  tlie  Members  for  the  County  of  York, 
for  the  time  being ;  the  Bailiffs  for  the  Borough  of  Scar- 
borough, for  the  time  being ;  the  Lord  Mayor  of  York,  for 
the  time  being  ;  Sir  George  Cayley,  Bart. ;  Sir  Francis  Lindley 
Wood,  Bart. ;  G.  G.  V.  Vernon,  Esq.  M.  P.  ;  Robert  Chalonei; 
Esq.  M.  P. ;  Walter  Fawkes,  Esq. ;  William  Joseph  Denison, 
Esq.  M.  P. ;  George  Johnstone,  Esq ;  and  The  Rev.  Arch- 
deacon Wrangham,  M.  A.  F.  R,  S.  Vice-Presidents. — Trea- 
surers, Messrs.  Woodall  c\  Co. ;  Physician,  Dr.  Thompson  ;  }, 
Secretary,  Mr.  Thornton. 

"  The  Baths  have  been  established  in  the  lower  town 
in  order  both  to  remove  unpleasing  objects  from  the  public 
eye,  and  to  consult  economy  as  well  in  the  purchase  of  the 
site,  as  in  the  procuring  of  water  from  the  sea.  The  advan- 
tages, which  have  already  accrued  to  the  institution,  fully 
justify  the  anticipations  of  it's  most  sanguine  supporters, 
and  place  it  on  a  level  with  the  most  useful  of  public 
charities. 


14  SCARBOROUGH. 

"  Subscriptions  are  received  at  the  Bank  of  Messrs. 
Woodall  &  Co.  in>  Scarborough,  or  by  their  Correspondents 
(Sir  Peter  Pole,  Bart.,  and  Co.,  &c.)  in  London,  and  in  the 
principal  towns  in  the  county. 

"  N.  B. — Subscription-Books  are  left  at  the  Public- 
Rooms  ;  and  it  is  hoped,  that  the  Nobility  and  Gentry 
visiting  Scarborough  will  not  think  it  too  much  to  give 
half-a-crown  each  to  this  useful  institution." 

"  In  old  Bethesda's  holy  wave, 
Jndea's  halt  were  borne  to  lave  : 
With  eye  up-turning,  weak  and  wan, 
Lay  on  it's  brink  th*  expectant  man  j 
And  ever,  as  th'  Eternal  King 
Sent  healing  on  an  angel's  wing, 
Raptured  he  caught  the  rustling  sound, 
And  health  and  gladness  gush'd  around. 

But  till  the  angel  stirr'd  the  tide, 
The  wondrous  virtue  was  denied ; 
Like  vulgar  stream  it's  flow,  unbless'd, 
No  salutary  power  possess'd. 

O  ye.!  whi ,  on  the  ocean  strand, 
In  youthful  grace  and  joyance  stand  ; 
Ye,  "  compass'd  in  an  angel's  frame," 
Whom  love's  fond  votaries  '  angels'  name ; 
Be  your's  to  prove  your  heavenly  birth ; 
O  bless,  while  ye  adorn  the  earth  ! 
Your  bounty  still  can  bid  the  wave 
Resume  it's  potency  to  save. 

F.  W. 


SCARBOROUGH.  15 

The  fish  Market  is  upon  the  sands  near  the  harbour ; 
and,  in  a  plentiful  season,  there  is  a  great  variety ;  viz. 
turbot,  holibut,  cod,  ling,  skate,  codlings,  haddocks,  whit- 
ings, herrings,  dabs,  plaise,  soles,  gurnards,  coal-fish,  lob- 
sters, and  crabs. 

The  population  of  Scarborough,  according  to  the  last 
census,  is  8188.  i;.,',   ■  niil  ,t  minhfw.+w*  r— "*   ^A 

The  following  account  of  the  customs  and  amusements     \^/  ^ 
of  this  long-established  watering-place  in  the  year  1733,  is 
extracted  from  a  Tour  published  in  that  year ;  and  may, 
perhaps,  prove  amusing  to  the  readers  of  this  Sketch  : — 

"  The  town  is  populous  (containing,  by  computation, 
about  2000  families),  and  well  built ;  the  houses,  for  the 
most  part,  uniform,  neat,  and  commodious.  The  streets 
also  are  most  of  them  very  spacious  ;  so  that  coaches  pass 
and  repass  without  any  difficulty  or  inconvenience.  The 
lodgings  are  very  reasonable,  and  well  furnished,  there 
being  here  an  upholsterer  from  London.  A  shower  of 
rain  puts  no  stop  to  the  diversions  of  the  place ;  for  you 
have  chairs  from  London,  which  ply  in  the  principal  parts 
of  the  town :  the  High-street  is  called  Newborough,  out  of 
which  runs  another  up  to  the  Long  Room,  which  stands 
toward  the  end  of  the  town,  on  the  top  of  a  cliff,  whence 
by  a  gradual  descent  you  go  down  to  the  Spaw.  This  is  a 
noble  spacious  building,  sixty-two  feet  long,  thirty  wide, 
and  sixteen  high.  The  situation,  being  so  lofty,  commands  a 
prospect  over  the  sea,  and  you  may  sit  in  the  windows  and 
see  the  ships  sailing  at  several  leagues  distance.     Here  are 


16  SCARBOROUGH. 

balls  every  evening,  -when  the  room  is  illuminated  like  ■■ 
Court  Assembly  (and  indeed,  for  the  great  number  of  noble 
personages  present,  may  very  justly  be  called  so.)  Gen- 
tlemen (only)  pay  for  dancing  one  shilling  each.  On  one 
side  of  the  room  is  a  Music  Gallery,  and  at  the  lower  end 
are  kept  a  Pharo-Bank,  a  Hazard-Table,  and  Fair-Chance  ; 
and,  in  the  side-rooms,  tables  for  such  of  the  company  as 
are  inclined  to  play  at  cards :  below,  you  have  Billiard 
Tables .  It  is  kept  by  Mr.  Vipont,  Master  of  the  Long-Room 
at  Hampstead.  There  is  no  Ordinary  here  ;  but  Gentlemen 
may  have  any  thing  dressed  in  the  most  elegant  manner , 
the  house  being  provided  with  cooks  from  London.  Every 
thing  is  conducted  in  the  politest  manner  by  Vipont,  who 
is  a  perfect  master  of  his  business.  Gentlemen  and  Ladies 
subscribe  here,  likewise,  five  shillings. 

"  There  are  several  Ordinaries  in  the  town,  the  principal 
of  which  are,  the  New  Inn,  the  New  Globe,  the  Black- 
smiths' Arms,  the  Crown  and  Sceptre,  and  the  Old  Globe. 

"  The  company  dine  commonly  about  two,  and  have  ten 
or  a  dozen  dishes,  one  of  which  is  generally  rabbits,  which 
you  have  here  in  the  utmost  perfection.  Their  mutton  is, 
I  think,  at  least  equal  to  Banstead-Downs ;  and  the  near- 
ness of  this  town  to  the  sea,  supplies  them  with  plenty  of 
the  finest  fish  at  very  reasonable  rates  ;  and  for  poultry, 
they  have  a  poulterer  who  finds  it  worth  his  while  coming 
from  London  every  summer.  It  is  usual  to  drink  a  glass  of 
Spaw-water  mixed  with  your  wine  at  dinner.  Persons  of 
all  ranks,  Gentlemen  and  Ladies  together,  sit  down  without 


SCARBOROUGH.  17 

distinction,  each  pjaying  their  club,  which  is  one.  shillings 
after  which  they  collect  round  the  company  for  wine,  &c. 
(called  the  extraordinary)  which  is  generally  about  one 
shilling  more.  This  last  used  formerly  to  be  paid  by  the 
gentlemen  only ;  but  that  complaisant  custom  is  now  laid 
aside,  and  the  ladies  are  brought  in  to  pay  an  equal  share 
of  the  whole  reckoning.  This  method  of  ordinaries  is  vastly 
commodious  for  strangers,  and  affords  an  opportunity  of 
being  acquainted  with  the  company. 

"  In  the  afternoon  are  plays  acted*,  to  which  most  of  the 
gentry  in  town  resort :  Kerregan  is  now  here  with  his  com- 
pany, and  (allowing  for  scenes  and  decorations)  they  per- 
form several  plays  very  well.  After  the  play  is  over,  it  is 
customary  to  go  to  the  Long-Room  again,  where  they 
dance  or  play  till  about  nine,  and  then  sup  in  company 
again. 

"  Gentlemen  appear  in  all  places  without  their  swords ; 
not  through  an  apprehension  of  danger  from  the  intoxicat- 
ing nature  of  the  Spaw-water,  but  from  a  polite  declaration, 
that  in  places  of  public  resort,  all  distinctions  ought  to  be 
lost  in  a  general  complaisance." 

The  following  account,  from  the  York  Chronicle,  describes 
the  effects  of  the  strong  gale  of  October  12,  1824: — 

"  Scarborough,  Oct.  12. — Scarborough  has  been  visited 
with  tremendously  stormy  weather,  of  high  wind  and  con- 
tinued rain,  from  Sunday   evening  last,  till  this  period 

*  The  present  Theatre  is  situated  in  Tanner-street. 


18  SCARBOROUGH. 

(Tuesday,)  and  yet  prevails.  The  shipwrecks  on  our  coast 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Scarborough,  we  lament  to  ob- 
serve, have  been  very  numerous.  A  vessel  was  dashed  to 
pieces,  during  the  violence  of  the  storm,  about  midnight, 
and  every  soul  on  board  perished  :  the  body  of  a  female 
was  this  morning  washed  on  shore.  Another  ship  was 
seen  to  approach  our  cliffs,  against  which  she  in  a  few  mo- 
ments dashed,  and  the  crew  were  obliged  to  take  to  their 
boats,  which,  owing  to  the  fury  of  the  element,  were  imme- 
diately upset ;  but  through  the  praise-worthy  exertions  of 
the  life-boatmen,  they  were  all  fortunately  saved.  A  sloop 
was  seen  to  sink  yesterday  near  the  castle  promontory." 


,  THE  CHURCH  OF  SAINT  MARY. 

"  The  gazing  seaman  here  entranced  stands, 
Whilst  fair  unfolding  from  her  concave  slope, 
He  Scarborough  views.    The  sandy  pediment, 
First  gently  raised  above  the  watery  plain, 
Embraces  wide  the  waves  ;  the  lower  domes 
Next  lift  their  heads ;   then  swiftly  roof  o'er  roof, 
With  many  a  weary  step,  the  streets  arise 
Testudinous,  till  half  o'ercome  the  cliff, 
A  swelling  fabric  dear  to  heaven  aspires, 
Majestic  even  in  rnin." 


Foster. 


The  ancient  church  of  St.   Mary  is  most    picturesquely 
situated  upon  a  considerable  eminence,  near  to  the  Castle, 


SCARBOROUGH.  19 

but  does  not  display  any  marks  of  fine  or  elaborate  archi- 
tecture ;  it's  grey  and  irregular  appearance,  however, 
it's  supposed  former  use  as  the  church  of  the  monastery,  the 
tower-like  ruins  at  it's  eastern-end,  in  conjunction  with 
it's  elevated  situation,  the  church-yard  crowded  with 
tombs,  and  the  view  of  the  sea  and  the  sands  obtained 
thence,  all  conspire  to  render  it  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing of  situations. 

The  following  description  of  this  ancient  edifice  is 
extracted  from  Hinderwell's  History  : — 

"  This  sacred  building,  venerable  for  it's  antiquity,  has 
much  the  appearance  of  a  conventual  Church,  and  was 
formerly  a  very  spacious  and  magnificient  edifice,  con- 
siderably surpassing  its  present  extent.  The  ruins,  yet 
standing,  at  the  eastern  part  of  the  church-yard,  the  dis- 
membered appearance  of  the  western  end  of  the  church' 
the  subterraneous  arches  extending  to  the  west,  and  the 
great  quantity  of  foundation  stones  discovered  in  the  new 
burial  ground  contiguous  to  it,  are  sufficient  proofs  that  it 
is,  in  the  present  state,  only  a  small  part  of  a  va9t  edifice 
which  may  have  formed  the  Cistercian  Abbey  and  the 
Church,  founded  by  King  Edward  II.  and  suppressed 
in  the  reign  of  Henry  V. 

"  It  appears  by  Leland's  '  Itinerary,'  that  previously  to 
the  Reformation,  it  was  a  very  noble  building,  adorned 
with  three  handsome  towers ;  two  of  which  were  at  the 
western  end,  and  one  was  over  the  centre  of  the  transept. 
There  was  also  a  grand  arch  of  gothic  architecture  in  the 


20  SCARBOROUGH. 

Choir,  the  ruins  of  which  were  visible  a  few  years  ago, 
but  have  since  been  taken  down.  The  centre  (or  transept, 
tower  having  been  greatly  shaken  during  the  siege  of  the 
Castle  in  1644,  fell  in  October,  1659,  and  considerably 
injured  a  great  part  of  the  nave  of  the  Church.  The  pre- 
sent steeple,  which  now  singularly  stands  at  the  eastern 
end,  was  erected  upon  the  ruins,  and  occupies  the  place 
of  the  ancient  transept  tower.  The  southern  part  of  the 
building  attached  to  the  nave  seems  to  have,  in  some 
degree,  escaped  the  injury  sustained  by  the  other  parts ; 
as  some  of  the  remains  of  the  chantries  are  still  visible 
under  the  arches  adjoining  the  south  aisle.  These  arches 
are  three  in  number,  and  have  formed  the  separate  chan- 
tries*, which  in  the  days  of  superstition  were  founded  by 
our  ancestors,  as  places  of  prayer  for  the  souls  of  the  de- 
ceased. 

"  One  of  these  chantries  was  founded  in  the  reign  of 
Richard  II.  and  endowed  with  five  houses  and  five  acres 
of  land. 

'.'  The  Bailiffs  of  Scarborough  also  erected  one,  which 
they  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  and  endowed  it  with 
five  pounds  per  annum. 

"  Robert  Golan d  erected  one  to  the  honour  of  St.  James, 
which  he  endowed  with  five  pounds  per  annum. 

"  Robert  Rillington  founded  another,  endowed  with 
three  pounds  per  annum. 

•  In  these  chantries,  are  basous  for  holy-water,  surmounted  by 
crocketed  canopies. 


SCARBOROUGH.  21 

"  Many  ancient  benefactions  were  made  to  this  Church 
by  the  pious  inhabitants  of  the  town. 

*'  Aylmar  de  Cliff-land  gave  liberally  to  St.  Mary's 
altar,  with  money  for  oblations,  and  three  priests  to 
officiate. — A  toft  was  bestowed  by  Osbert  de  Hansard. — A 
great  house  on  the  rock  was  given  by  Walter,  son  of  Gun- 
ner, and  money  by  his  brother  Richard. — Some  land,  on 
the  Cliff,  was  granted  by  William  de  Harton  ;  and  another 
parcel,  in  the  town,  by  Thomas  Hardin. 

"  Galfrid  de  Lutton,  and  Galfrid  de  Groom,  gave  lands 
to  this  Church,  and  also  to  Kirkstall  Abbey*,  and  Keld- 
holme  Nunnery, 

"  Emera,  a  beautiful  and  religious  virgin,  the  daugh- 
ter of  Robert  de  Filey,  in  the  year  1219,  was  a  liberal  be- 
nefactress.— And  there  appears  a  long  list  of  inhabitants,  too 
tedious  to  recite,  who  were  very  bountiful  to  the  Church. 

"  During  the  siege  of  Scarborough  Castle,  by  Sir  John 
Meldrum,  a  lodgment  was  made  by  his  troops  in  this 
then  extensive  church.  It's  lofty  towers,  within  a  very 
small  distance  from  the  castle-gate,  enabled  them  greatly 
to  annoy  the  defenders  :  they  drew  several  pieces  of 
artillery  into  the  church  by  night,  formed  a  masqued  bat- 
tery, and  at  length  opened  their  fire  upon  the  castle, 
through  the  church  windows ;  those  especially,  which  were 
on  the  east  side  and  choir ;  the  besieged  returned  their 
fire  in  so  hot  and  well-directed  a  manner,  as  soon  obliged 
the  enemy  to  abandon  their  post,  but  the  building  suffered 
much. 

«  Near  Leeds,  now  a  ruin. 


22  SCARBOROUGH. 

"  The  desolation  which  this  venerable  edifice  sustained, 
during  this  siege  of  the  Castle,  and  by  the  subsequent  fall 
of  the  transept  tower,  reduced  it  to  a  state  of  ruin  ;  and  the 
inhabitants  had  suffered  such  a  variety  of  misfortunes  by 
a  succession  of  calamitous  events,  that  they  were  under 
the  necessity  of  having  recourse  to  a  Brief,  in  the  12th 
Charles  II.  (1660)  to  enable  them  to  rebuild  it. 

"  By  the  assistance  of  this  Brief,  and  other  contribu- 
tions, part  of  the  body  of  St.  Mary's  Church,  and  the 
tower  (as  it  now  stands)  were  rebuilt  in  1669,  on  the 
foundation  and  ruins  of  the  old  fabric. 

"  The  ancient  burial-ground,  surrounding  the  Church, 
being  much  crowded,  the  Corporation  purchased  a  piece 
of  ground  contiguous  to  the  west,  which  was  consecrated 
in  1779. 

"  St.  Mary's  Church  is  the  sole  place  of  religious  wor- 
ship in  Scarborough,  where  Divine  Service  is  performed 
according  to  the  ceremonies  of  the  church  of  England  *: 
but  there  are  other  places  of  worship,  belonging  to  Dissen- 
ters of  different  denominations,  viz.  Independents,  in  St.  Se- 
pulchre-street ;  Baptists,  in  West-Gate ;  Quakers,  near 
Cook's  Row;  and  Roman  Catholics,  in  West«Gate.  The 
Methodists  have  also  a  Meeting-house  in  Church-street. 

"  There  are,  in  the  Church,  several  marble  monuments 
of  elegant  workmanship,  but  of  modern  date.     It  is  also 

»  A  grant  from  government  has  been  lately  obtained  for  the 
erection  of  a  new  church. 


SCARBOROUGH.  23 

ornamented  with  a  handsome  organ,  erected  in  1762,  and 
the  fronts  of  the  galleries  are  inscribed  with  the  benefac- 
tions which  have  been  made  to  the  poor.  Among  the  most 
memorable  of  these,  is  the  following  by  Sir  John  Lawson, 
a  celebrated  naval  commander  of  the  last  century : — Sir 
John  Lawson,  by  his  will,  gave  one  hundred  pounds  ;  the 
interest  thereof,  six  pounds  per  annum,  to  be  paid  by  the 
Corporation  yearly,  on  St.  Thomas's  day,  to  the  poor  of 
Scarborough. 

"  Public  worship  is  performed  here  twice  on  the  Sun- 
day, and  once  on  Wednesday  and  Friday,  during  the  wit- 
ter ;  and  in  the  summer  daily.     Two  sermons  are  delivered 
on  the  Sunday,  and  one  on  Wednesday.    The  communion 
is  administered  monthly,  and  the  occasional  duty  is  very 
considerable.     By  an  early  attendance,   seats  may  easily 
be- obtained  on  application  to  the  pew-door  openers.     Ser- 
vice  in  the  morning   begins   at  a   quarter  before   eleven, 
o'clock,  and  in  the  afternoon  at  a  quarter  after  three. 
Vicar. 
The  Rev.  John  Kirk,  M.  A. 
Curate* 
The  Rev.  J.  Skelton. 

•'  Dissenters'  Chapel,  commonly  called  Presbyterian  or 
Independent,  was  first  erected  in  the  year  1703,  whereof 
the  Rev.  William  Hannay  became  minister,  and  con- 
tinued until  the  year  1725.  He  was  succeeded  by  the 
Rev.  William  Whitaker,  who  regularly  officiated  until 
the  year  1773,  when  through  age  and  infirmities  he  was 


24  SCARBOROUGH. 

under  the  necessity  of  declining  the  ministry.  At  that 
period,  the  Rev.  Samuel  Bottomley  was  invited  to  suc- 
ceed him,  the  congregation  then  consisting  of  about 
thirty  stated  hearers,  and  the  communicants  of  about 
half  that  number.  The  novelty,  zeal,  or  ability  of  the 
preacher,  greatly  increased  the  congregation  ;  so  that,  in 
the  year  1774,  it  was  found  necessary  to  rebuild  and  en- 
large the  place  of  worship,  since  which  period  a  farther 
extension  has  taken  place  in  the  chapel.  Public  worship 
is  performed  five  times  in  the  week,  viz.  three  times  on 
the  Lord's  Day  ;  and  on  Tuesday  and  Thursday  evenings  : 
and  the  communion  is  administered  once  in  two  months. 

"  The  Baptist  Chapel  was  built  in  the  year  1776.  The 
Rev.  William  Hague  was  the  first  minister,  and  may  in- 
deed be  called  the  founder  of  the  Baptists  in  Scarborough, 
as  there  were  none  of  that  denomination  in  this  place  pre- 
vious to  his  first  ministry,  which  was  in  the  year  1766, 
in  a  room  near  the  sands.  The  Rev.  Sir.  Foster  is  the 
present  minister.  The  times  of  public  worship  are  thrice 
on  the  Sabbath-day ;  and  once  on  the  Monday,  Wed- 
nesday, and  Friday  evenings.  The  communion  is  ad- 
ministered monthly. 

"  The  Methodists  first  assembled  at  Scarborough  in 
the  year  1757,  when  they  suffered  great  opposition  and 
persecution ;  but  they  are  now  permitted  to  attend  their 
place  of  divine  worship  without  interruption.  Their 
times  of  public  meeting  are,  twice  on  Sunday ;  and  on 
the  evenings  of  Monday  and  Thursday.    A  Missionary 


SCARBOROUOH.  25 

Prayer-Meeting  is  held  at  each  of  the  above-mentioned 
Chapels  in  the  evenings  of  the   first   Monday  of   each 

month. 

"  The  Quakers  date  their  establishment  here  from 
the  time  of  the  imprisonment  of  George  Fox,  their 
founder,  in  Scarborough  Castle.  Their  times  of  meet- 
ing are  twice  on  the  Sunday,  and  once  on  the  Wed- 
nesday." 

On  the  25th  of  November,  1821,  the  sect,  called  the 
Primitive  Methodists,  opened  a  Chapel  in  St.  Sepulchre- 
street. 


Tire  Spaw    Scakbro 


"  Scarborough  boasts 


A  double  portion  of  the  healing  strength 
In  her  fam'd  Spaw,  that  treasures  all  it's  stores, 
Where  yonder  roof,  erected  on  the  waves, 
Grotesquely  lurks  beneath  the  pendent  cliff."' 

Foster. 


V 


"  The  Spaw-house  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  sea-shore, 
at  the  foot  of  the  cliffs,  a  little  to  the  south  of  the  town. 
This  building  was  raised  to  it's  present  form  in  the  year 
1739.  The  first  cistern  for  collecting  the  waters  was  built 
in  1698. 


SCARBOROUGH.  27 

"  These  mineral  waters  have  supported  their  fame  nearly 
two  centuries.  Dr.  Wittie  writes  that  the  discovery  of  their 
virtues  was  owing  to  the  following  accidental  circum- 
stance : — 

"  Mrs.  Farrow,  an  intelligent  lady,  who  lived  at  Scarbo- 
rough about  the  year  1620,  sometimes  walked  along  the 
shore  ;  and  observing  the  stones  over  which  the  water 
passed  to  have  received  a  russet  colour,  and  finding  it  to 
have  an  acid  taste,  different  from  the  common  springs,  and 
to  receive  a  purple  tincture  from  galls,  thought  it  probably 
might  have  a  medical  property  ;  and  having  therefore  made 
an  experiment  herself,  and  persuaded  others  to  do  the  same, 
it  was  found  to  be  efficacious  in  some  complaints,  and  be- 
came the  usual  physic  of  the  inhabitants.  It  was  after- 
wards in  great  reputation  with  the  citizens  of  York,  and  the 
gentry  of  the  county  ;  and  at  length  was  so  generally  re- 
commended, that  several  persons  of  quality  came  from  a 
great  distance  to  drink  it ;  preferring  it  before  all  the  others 
they  had  formerly  frequented,  even  the  Italian,  French,  and 
German  Spaws  *." 

A  superintendant  (called  the  Governor)  of  the  Spaw,  ap- 
pointed by  the  Corporation,  attends  to  receive  the  subscrip- 
tions and  to  preserve  order.  The  following  is  a  copy  of 
the  last  Regulations,  relative  to  the  Subscriptions,  &c. 
dated  June  10,  1822  :— 

"  The  Nobility  and  Gentry  are   respectfully  informed, 


*  Dr  Wittie  on  Scarborough  waters. 


28  SCARBOROUGH. 

that  the  Subscriptions  to  the  Waters,  Use  of  the  Rooms,  and 
Walks  of  the  Spaw,  is  either  by  the  Week,  or  for  the  Sea- 
son ;  viz.  each  Subscriber,  2s.  6d.  per  Week,  or  7s.  6d.  for 
the  Season  ;  or  a  Family  Subscription,  7s.  6d.  per  Week, 
or  1/.  Is.  for  the  Season.  The  Water-servers  are  entitled 
to  one-half  of  the  weekly  Subscriptions,  and  one-third  part 
of  the  Subscriptions  for  the  Season.  As  the  whole  of  the 
Subscriptions  are  now  rented  by  the  Governor  under  the 
sanction  of  the  Bailiffs  and  Corporation,  it  is  requested  that 
\  /  no  Lady  or  Gentleman  will  send  for,  or  drink,  the  waters, 
without  subscribing_as  above.  The  Subscription  to  the 
Newspapers,  2s.  per  Week,  or  5s.  for  the  Season,  is  entirely 
optional,  and  a  separate  Concern. 

"  In  the  month  of  December,  1737,  the  staith  of  the  Spaw, 
composed  of  a  large  body  of  stone  bound  by  timber,  as  a 
fence  against  the  sea  for  the  security  of  the  Spaw-house,  in  a 
most  extraordinary  manner  gave  way.  A  great  mass  of  the 
cliff,  containing  near  an  acre  of  pasture- land,  with  the 
cattle  grazing  upon  it,  sunk  perpendicularly  several  yards. 
As  the  ground  sunk,  the  earth  or  sand  under  the  cliff  rose 
on  the  north  and  south  sides  of  the  staith,  out  of  its  natural 
position,  above  100  yards  in  length ;  and  was  in  some 
places  six,  and  in  others  seven,  yards  above  it's  former  le- 
vel. The  Spaw-wells  ascended  with  the  earth  or  sand ;  but 
so  soon  as  the  latter  began  to  rise,  the  water  ceased  running 
into  the  wells,  and  for  a  time  seemed  to  be  lost. 

"  The  ground  thus  risen  was  26  yards  broad ;   and  the 
staith,  notwithstanding  it's  immense  weight,  (computed  at 


SCARBOROUGH.  29 

<463  tons,)  rose  entire  12  feet  higher  than  its  former  po- 
sition, and  was  forced  forward  to  the  sea  about  20  yards. 

"  The  springs  of  mineral-waters  were,  by  diligent  search, 
afterwards  recovered ;  and  the  staith  being  repaired,  the 
Spaw  continued  in  gTeat  reputation. 

"  The  celebrated  Dicky  Dickinson,  an  original  charac- 
ter, was  at  the  above  period  the  Governor  of  the  Spaw.  His 
person  was,  in  the  highest  degree,  deformed  ;  but  he  pos- 
sessed an  uncommon  brilliancy  of  wit,  and  considerable  in- 
genuity*. 

"  The  annexed  lines  were  composed  in  honour  of  the  vi- 
vacity of  his  talents  : 

"  Samos  unenvled  boasts  her  JEsop  gone, 
And  France  may  glory  in  her  late  Scarron, 
While  England  has  a  living  Dickinson." 

The  following  is  the  account  of  the  Wells,  compiled  by 
Dr.  Belcombe,  formerly  resident  in  Scarborough : — 

"  The  first  well  on  descending  the  steps  is  the  chalybeate 
water,  sometimes  called  the  North-well ;  and  near  it  the 
salt  or  South- well.  From  both  wells  the  water  is  perfectly 
clear,  of  a  bluish  cast,  sometimes  sparkling;  has  not  a  very 
disagreeable  taste,  or  the  least  unpleasant  smell.  Although 
the  North-well  has  been  called  the  chalybeate,  it  is  found 

•  As  Dickv  was  once  sitting  on  his  bench  at  the  Spaw,  a  lady 
placed  herself  near  him,  and  said,  jokingly,  I  think  I  should  like 
you  for  a  husband :  indeed,  replied  this  original  character,  I 
should  not  like  you  for  a  wife.  Why  ?  said  she.  Because  you 
are  too  much  like  our  clock.    How  is  that  f    Too  forward. 


30  SCARBOROUGH. 

not  to  hold  much  more  iron  in  solution  than  the  other ;  but 
containing  much  less  vitriolated  magnesia,  it's  taste  is 
stronger,  or  more  inky.  The  taste  of  the  North-well  water 
rs  brisk,  and  not  disagreeably  saline.  When  suffered  to 
stand  in  an  open  vessel  exposed  to  the  sun,  or  in  a  warm 
room,  the  sides  of  the  vessel  are  soon  covered  with  air- 
bubbles,  and  the  water  becomes  somewhat  turbid  :  in  a 
day  or  two,  it  deposits  a  little  yellow  or  orange-coloured 
sediment.  The  water  then  grows  clear  again  ;  and  if  suf- 
fered to  stand  lightly  covered  for  some  weeks,  a  thin  skim 
or  pellicle  forms  upon  the  surface,  and  under  it  a  number  of 
beautiful  crystals,  which  on  the  least  motion  fall  to  the  bot- 
tom. Phenomena  nearly  similar  may  be  observed  in  the 
North-well  water,  except  that  few  or  no  crystals  form  by 
this  spontaneous  evaporation.  These  crystals  are  vitrio- 
jated  magnesia.  It  is  said  that  the  waters  from  both  wells, 
on  being  kept  for  some  time  corked,  will  become  foetid ; 
and,  on  being  again  exposed  to  the  air,  will  recover  it's 
former  purity. 

"  Much  of  the  orange-colour  sediment  is  observed  in  all 
the  channels  near  the  Spaw  ;  and  it  sometimes  comes  down 
the  pipes,  which  conduct  the  water,  in  considerable  quanti- 
ties :  this  the  water-servers  call  the  coming  down  of  the 
mineral.  It  is  chiefly  carbonate  of  iron  and  carbonate  of  lime. 
The  temperature  of  these  springs  varies  very  little ;  which 
is  considered  as  a  proof  that  they  rise  at  a  considerable 
depth  in  the  earth.  The  thermometer  generally  stands  at 
45  deg.  in  the  North-well  water,  when  it  is  at  32  deg.  (or 


SCARBOROUGH.  .11 

freezing)  in  the  open  air.  In  the  South-well  water,  it  is 
commonly  half  a  degree  higher.  I  have  seldom  seen  it 
more  than  46  deg.  or  46  deg.  5  min.  even  in  summer.  The 
specific  gravity  of  the  South- well  water  is  10038,06  ;  of  the 
North-well  water,  10033,23  ;  of  the  sea-water,  10270,54  ; 
distilled  water  being  considered  as  10000. 

"  From  remote  ages  mineral  waters  have  been  considered 
as  very  efficacious  medicines  in  almost  all  those  diseases 
which  have  not  yielded  to  the  use  of  other  remedies,  and 
not  unfrequently  as  instances  of  God's  peculiar  goodness 
to  his  creatures ;  consequently,  their  effects  have  been 
esteemed  miraculous.  So  prone  is  human  nature  to  super- 
stition, and  so  apt  to  attribute  to  the  partial  interposition  of 
the  Deity  the  effect  of  general  laws  which  it's  finite  reason 
does  not  comprehend  !  Scepticism  commonly  succeeds  su- 
perstition ;  and,  accordingly,  it  is  now  the  mode  with  some 
physicians  to  regard  mineral  waters  as  remedies  of  little 
value. 

"  The  surprising  advances  which  Chemistry  has  made 
within  a  very  few  years,  by  enabling  men  to  ascertain  with 
accuracy  the  contents  of  mineral  waters,  has  (it  is  true)  also 
enabled  them  to  judge  more  correctly  of  their  probable 
effects,  and  consequently  rendered  them  less  liable  than 
formerly  to  imposition  from  supposed  cures,  which  may  have 
been  the  effects  of  other  unnoticed  circumstances ;  but  until 
they  can  explain  more  satisfactorily  than  at  present  the  way 
in  which  medicines  act,  they  ought  not  to  descry  the  valu- 
able  effects   which   experience  informs  us  are  frequently 


32  SCARBOROUGH. 

produced  by  small  quantities  of  mineral  substances  diffused 
through  large  portions  of  pure  water.  Chemistry  has,  also 
enabled  them  to  imitate  the  mineral  waters  with  consider- 
able success  ;  but  it  has  been  found  extremely  difficult  to 
make  the  waters  as  agreeable  and  pure  as  at   the  fountain. 

"  The  general  effect  of  the  South -well  water,  when  drank 
in  a  sufficient  quantity,  is  to  act  gently  upon  the  bowels  and 
kidneys,  and  sometimes  on  both,  but  without  harassing 
or  fatiguing;  on  the  contrary,  it  strengthens  and  exhila- 
rates. It  is  serviceable  in  debility  and  relaxations  of  the  sto- 
mach, in  nervous  disorders,  scurvy,  struma  or  swelled  glands, 
chlorosis,  and  particular  weaknesses.  I  have  found  it  very 
useful  in  a  variety  of  chronic  complaints,  attended  by  habi- 
tual costiveness.  These  complaints  are  often  accompanied  by 
some  degree  of  jaundice,  or  are  frequently  subsequent  to  it,  to 
a  sedentary  life,  to  long-continued  and  ■painful  affections  of  the 
mind,  to  long  and  tedious  illness,  to  agues,  to  residence  in  hot  cli- 
mates, and  sometimes  to  intemperance.  In  such  cases, 
I  have  known  a  small  glass  of  this  water,  repeated 
every  day  for  some  time,  produce  the  most  desired  and 
permanent  effect ;  even  when  very  powerful  medicines 
have  not  been  found  to  answer,  or  only  to  afford  temporary 
relief.  Most  commonly,  however,  two,  three,  or  even 
four  half  pints,  taken  at  proper  intervals,  and  repeated 
daily,  are  required;  although  no  very  great  constipation 
may  have  preceded. 

"  Some  diseases  of  the  stomach,  as  I  have  already  ob- 
served, are  much  relieved  by  this  water,  others  are  in- 


SCARBOROUGH.  33 

creased  by  it's  use  ;  especially  all  those  proceeding  from 
long  continued  intemperance  :  but  the  sickness  arising 
from  occasional  excess  is  often  wonderfully  relieved  by  a 
glass  or  two  of  this  water.  It  sometimes  affords  relief  in 
the  gravel,  as  well  as  in  several  pains  of  the  loins,  -whose 
seat  seems  to  be  in  the  kidneys,  although  they  are  gene- 
rally called  rheumatic.  Disorders  commonly  comprehended 
under  the  appellation  of  scurvy,  as  pimples,  red  face,  eruption* 
in  various  parts  of  the  body ;  roughness  of  the  skin,  or  scurf, 
&c.  are  often  cured  by  a  long  continued  use  of  the  South-well 
water.  Some  remarkable  instances  of  this  kind  have  come 
to  my  knowledge,  both  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  town,  and 
of  strangers.  In  these  disorders  as  much  water  should  be 
drank  daily,  at  proper  intervals,  as  will  produce  some  sen- 
sible effect  upon  the  bowels  :  sometimes  a  single  glass,  even 
of  the  smallest  size,  will  be  sufficient;  but  when  three  or 
four  half  pints  are  not  found  to  answer,  it  is  better  to  add  a 
little  Scarborough  salt,  or  drink  a  glass  of  sea-water,  than 
to  increase  the  quantity. 

"  The  Chalybeate,  or  North-well,  water  has  little  or  no 
opening  property.  It  braces,  and  generally  passes  off  by 
urine.  Hence  it  is  preferable,  in  most  of  those  complaints 
in  which  the  bowels  will  not  bear  the  South-well  water.  In 
all  cases  of  general  weakness  and  relaxation,  it's  virtues  are 
acknowledged  ;  and  I  observe  that  the  water-servers  gene- 
rally recommend  it  to  the  delicate  of  their  own  sex,  and  I 
believe  with  good  success.  This  water  is  however  apt  to 
heat,  and  sometimes  sits  heavy.     This  may  be   prevented 


34  SCARBOROUGH. 

by  the  means  hereafter  mentioned,  or  by  taking  a  glass  of 
the  South-well  water  at  the  same  time. 

"  The  North-well  water  is  peculiarly  useful  in  a  variety 
of  nervous  cases,  particularly  those  consequent  to  confine- 
ment, dissipation,  and  a  town-life,  where  the  bowels  require 
no  assistance.  It  is,  likewise,  serviceable  in  those  very  nu- 
merous cases  which  occur  to  females  at  that  time  of  life, 
when  the  growth  seems  disproportionate  to  the  strength. 
This  complaint  is  mostly  distinguished  by  a  ■pale  complexion, 
depraved  appetite,  weariness  and  pains  in  the  limbs,  palpita- 
tions, &c. 

"  To  reap  any  material  advantage,  these  waters  must 
be  drank  at  the  fountain :  for  as  their  virtues  in  some 
measure  depend  upon  an  elastic  fluid  or  gas,  which  quickly 
escapes  from  the  water,  they  must  necessarily  lose  some  of 
their  properties  by  being  transported  to  any  distance.  This 
circumstance,  although  of  importance,  is  not  much  at- 
tended to,  except  by  a  few  who  have  already  experienced 
the  advantage  of  it.  The  custom,  therefore,  of  sending  for 
the  water  to  the  Lodging-houses  ought  as  much  as  possible 
to  be  avoided ;  more  particularly  as  some  exercise  should 
be  taken  between  each  glass,  to  assist  it's  effect. 

"  Jn  all  cases,  where  the  patient  is  able,  walking  is  pre- 
ferable to  every  other  exercise  ;  next,  riding  on  horseback ; 
and,  last  of  all,  in  the  carriage.  The  best  time  for  drinking 
the  waters  is  before  breakfast ;  but  some  persons  cannot 
bear  the  coolness  of  these  waters  fasting ;  in  which  case 
they  may  conveniently   be  drank   about  two  hours  after 


SCARBOROUGH.  35 

breakfast.  When  they  sit  heavy,  or  when  the  stomach  is 
delicate,  they  are  sometimes  drank  a  little  warm.  By  this 
practice  their  virtues  are  diminished.  The  addition  of  a 
tea-spoonful  of  brandy,  tincture  of  cardamoms,  or  ether,  &c. 
is  preferable.  The  dose  cannot  be  ascertained  but  by 
trial. 

"  Those  who  bathe  and  drink  the  water  the  same  day,  'i 
generally  bathe  first.  And  this  seems  a  proper  precaution, 
in  particular  for  such  as  are  delicate,  who  ought  indeed 
rather  to  bathe  and  drink  the  waters  on  alternate  days. 
Those  who  are  robust  will  sometimes  drink  the  waters  on  the 
same  day,  both  before  and  after  bathing.  Every  year,  how- 
ever, gives  some  instance,  that  both  bathing  and  drinking 
the  waters  are  practised  incautiously ;  often  in  diseases  in 
which  they  are  improper." 

The  late  William  Hutton,  F.S.  A.,  in  his  "  Tour  to  Scar- 
borough," notices  the  great  benefits  which  the  drinking  of 
these  waters  and  bathing  effected  upon  his  daughter,  in  the 
following  words : — 

"  My  daughter's  complaint  was  a  nervous  asthma  of 
some  standing,  from  taking  cold.  We  visited  Scarborough 
as  the  last  resort.  She  stayed  eleven  weeks,  rode  on  horse- 
back every  day,  bathed  every  second,  and  drank  the  water 
three  times  each  day. 

"  About  four  weeks  elapsed  before  any  change  was  ap- 
parent, when  her  breathing,  activity;  and  strength,  began 
gradually  to  return,  and'  nature  seemed  approaching  to- 
ward hei1  former  tone  ;   and,  though  not  perfect,  I  have 


56  SCARBOROUGH. 

hopes  that  it  will  tend  to  preserve  that  life  which  I  value 
more  than  my  own." 

The  following,  from  the  York  Chronicle,  may  here  be 
appropriately  introduced : 

"  Scarborough,  Feb.  8,  1825. — Some  of  the  highest  and 
strongest  tides  that  have  been  experienced  at  Scarborough 
for  these  fifty  years,  occurred  there  on  Thursday  and  Friday 
evenings  hast,  marking  their  progress  with  desolation  to 
vessels  on  the  stocks,  and  to  the  projecting  erection  which 
guarded  the  Spaw  ;  which  it  has  dilapidated  in  a  deplorable 
manner,  washing  away  the  stones  of  immense  weight  which 
hounded  that  receptacle  of  health,  and  carrying  them  and 
the  platform,  "  shivering  in  their  playful  spray,"  to  a  con- 
siderable distance.  The  shore  on  Friday  morning  pre- 
sented an  aweful  spectacle  of  the  spoils  of  vessels,  bathing- 
machines,  and  the  wreck  (but  not  total)  of  the  Spaw.  Like 
some  other  calamities,  we  hope  it  will  ultimately  prove 
beneficial  to  the  elegance  of  this  fashionable  place,  in  the 
ornamental  improvements  which  may  take  place  in  the  new 
erection  of  the  despoiled  portion  of  this  nobly  situated  plat- 
form." 

THE  TOWN  HALL 

is  a  commodious  building  in  Long-Room  Street,  where  the 
sessions  are  held,  and  all  business  connected  with  the  town 
transacted.  In  the  Council-room  is  a  fine  portrait,  by  J. 
Jackson,  R.  A.  of  Mr.  Bartholomew  Johnson,  of  Scar- 
borough, a  highly-respected  musical  character,  who  com- 


SCARBOROUGH.  37 

plcted  his  100th  year,  on  the  3d  October,  1810.  This 
event,  so  highly  interesting  to  all  who  knew  him,  was  cele- 
brated by  a  Jubilee  dinner,  and  musical  performances,  at 
the  Freemasons'  Hall  in  Scarborough.  The  selections  of 
vocal  music  were  well  adapted  to  the  occasion ;  and  his 
musical  friends  here,  assisted  by  the  principal  choristers 
from  York  Cathedral,  afforded  the  company  much  gratifi- 
cation. About  ten  o'clock  at  night  the  good  old  man  bore 
a  part  in  a  quartet,  by  performing  on  the  violoncello  the 
bass  to  a  minuet,  which  he  himself  composed  upwards  of 
sixty  years  ago.  Several  poetical  compositions,  from  the 
classical  pens  of  the  Rev.  Archdeacon  Wrangham,  Thomas 
Hinderwell,  Esq.  &c.  were  sung  and  recited  with  great 
applause  *. 

THE  THEATRE, 

situated  in  Tanner-Street,  has  been  lately  newly  painted 
and  tastefully  embellished,  and  presents  a  coupd'ceil  at  once 
chaste  and  effective.  The  boxes,  unlike  those  in  the  gene- 
rality of  Theatres,  are  not  separated  by  partitions,  but 
freely  displayed  in  one  elevated  open  space.  It's  boards 
have  been  graced  by  the  acting  of  some  of  the  most  popular 
of  the  London  performers.  The  late  Mr.  Stephen  Kemble 
possessed  the  Theatre  for  a  series  of  years,  and  occasion- 
ally enacted  some  of  his  most  celebrated  characters  t.     It 

«  For  a  full  account  of  this  Jubilee,  see  The  Gentlemari's  Mag. 
vol.  80,  p.  2. 
t  In  Cunningham's  (the  pastoral  poet)  Poems,  appears  a  Pro- 


38  SCARBOROUGH. 

usually  opens  about  the  middle  of  July,  and  closes  in 
October.  The  prices  of  admission  are — Boxes,  3s. ;  Pit,  2*. ; 
and  Gallery,  Is.  There  are  two  fashionable  nights  in  the 
course  of  each  week; 


CUSTOMS. 

Ttlfc  usual  for  visitants  shortly  after  their  arrival  to  sub- 
ribe  to  the  Rooms,  the  Spaw,  and  Libraries,  and  take  a 
course  of  the  exhilarations  which  they  respectively  afford. 
Early  morning  is  appropriated  for  bathing  and  drinking 
the  waters,  mid-day  for  walking  the  sands,  shopping, 
lounging  at  the  libraries,  or  taking  one  of  the  drives  in  the 
romantic  environs.  After  dinner  a  general  muster  is  ap- 
parent on  the  Cliff  and  Spaw  terraces,  Beach,  and  different 
parts  of  the  town  and  Castle-hill ;  or  the  Theatre  is  visited, 
the  lecture  attended,  the  assembly  graced. 


" 


BATHING. 


. 


The  Sea  and  the  Spaw  generally  afford  engagements 
which  engross  the  first  attention,  and  fill  up  the  earlier  part 
of  each  morning  ;  for  to  bathe,  and  drink  the  waters,  are 
mostly  recommended  before  breakfast.  The  beautiful  form 
of  Scarborough  Beach,  is  at  an  early  hour  enlivened  by  the 
confused  but  entertaining  dispersion  of  bathing  machines, 
Scattered  on  it's  verge,  while  the   sun  slopes  it's  early 

logue,  spoken  at  Scarborough  :  as  the  author  was  an  actor,  we 
may  presume  he,  at  that  period,  figured  on  the  Scarborough  stage. 


SCARBOROUGH.  89 

beams  upon  them,  as  they  are  drawn  to  and  from  the 
sea.  There  are  about  forty  commodious  bathing-machines, 
which  belong  to  different  proprietors.  Two  women  attend 
each  lady  who  bathes,  as  guides  ;  and  one  man,  every  gen- 
tleman who  requires  it.  A  boy  attends  with  a  horse,  to 
draw  the  machine  to  and  from  the  water  ;  which  is  drawn 
to  any  depth  the  bather  pleases.  The  regular  price  for 
bathing  is  oae  shilling  each  time. 

TRAVIS'S  BATHS  ON  THE  CLIFF. 

This  establishment  was  originally  opened  in  1798  ;  since 
which  time,  it  has  undergone  several  improvements  :  in 
1822  it  was  rebuilt,  and  the  interior  fitted  up  with  every 
attention  to  comfort  and  elegance.  The  Baths  aro  in 
Wood  or  Marble,  and  are  varied  as  to  form,  being  adapt- 
ed either  for  plunging,  or  for  the  erect  or  horizontal  posi- 
tion. They  admit  of  every  variety  of  temperature,  and  are 
supplied  every  tide  with  the  the  purest  sea-water.  Here 
likewise  are  Shower-baths  and  warm  pumping  on  an  improved 
principle,  affording  every  degree  of  force  and  temperature. 
A  room  is  also  fitted  up  for  Steam  and  Vapour  Baths ;  and 
no  expense  has  been  spared  to  render  the  establishment 
equal  to  any  in  the  kingdom. 

HARLAND'S  BATHS. 

These  Baths  are  delightfully  situated  in  the  New  Road, 
at  the  bottom  of  Huntriss'-Row,  combining  in  that  situa- 
tion as  much  as  possible,  privacy  with  convenience,  to- 


40  SCARBOROUGH. 

gether  with  the  advantage  of  receiving  with  facility,  a  con- 
stant supply  of  the  purest  Sea  Wateb,  from  the  southern 
shore.  The  interior  of  the  Baths  is  constructed  on  a  plan 
entirely  new,  the  rooms  are  elegantly  fitted  up,  and  the 
apparatus  on  the  most  philosophical  principles.  One  of 
the  Baths  has  been  constructed  for  bathing  in  the  erect  or 
sitting  position,  for  those  who  are  not  able  to  bear  the 
horizontal. 

There  has  also  lately  been  erected  an  elegant  little  build- 
ing contiguous  to  the  original  edifice,  containing  a  plunge 
Bath,  of  size  sufficient  to  admit  of  all  the  advantages  of  Sea- 
bathing ;  intended  chiefly  for  those  who,  from  delicacy  of 
constitution  or  other  causes,  are  prevented  from  bathing  in 
the  open  sea.  Also,  an  additional  Shower-bath  upon  an 
improved  principle,  by  which  the  height,  force,  rapid  suc- 
cession, or  number  of  showers,  may  be  readily  adapted  to 
each  particular  case.  In  the  fitting-up  of  these  Baths 
no  expense  has  been  spared  either  with  regard  to  orna- 
ment or  utility. 

WARM  AND  SHOWER  BATHS,  NEAR  THE  PIERS, 
SCARBOROUGH. 

These  Baths  possess  exclusive  advantages  ;  they  are  sup- 
plied with  water  of  the  purest  quality,  pumped  immediately 
from  the  Sea,  at  a  situation  remote  from  the  drains  and  other 
impurities  of  the  town  ;  and  advantage  is  constantly  taken  of 
flowing  tides  to  obtain  it  of  the  greatest  possible  strength 
and  efficacy. 


SCARBOROUGH.  41 

Terms. 
A   Warm  Bath,    2*.   6d.  and   6rf.    the   attendant. — A 
Shower  Bath,  Is.  6d.  and  6d.  the  attendant. 

CHAMPLEY'S  NEW  BATHS, 

situated  in  Mr.  Cockerill's  Garden,  central  between  the 
Cliff  and  Brunswick  Terrace,  constructed  on  a  plan  entirely 
new,  in  which  privacy  and  elegance  are  combined,  and  on 
a  scale  of  magnitude  hitherto  unattempted  in  Scarborough. 
One  suite  of  rooms  appropriated  for  the  use  of  Ladies, 
and  another  for  that  of  Gentlemen.  Orders  received  at 
the  Baths,  and  by  J.  Champley,  Chemist,  &c.  at  his  shop, 
opposite  the  New  Inn,  Newborough- Street. 


Medical  Men. — Dr.  Thompson,  without  the  Gates  ;  Dr. 
Harland,  Messrs.  Travis  and  Dunn,  Newborough-Street ; 
Mr.  Weddell,  Queen-Street ;  Mr.  Willis,  Merchantsr-Row. 

AMUSEMENTS. 

After  breakfast,  the  usual  avocations  of  all  public  places 
here  also  succeed  in  their  turn  as  fancy  may  lead,  or  conve- 
nience direct.  Morning  parties  for  country  rides,  sally  forth 
with  their  gay  and  lively  trains,  in  pursuit  of  health  or  amuse- 
ment j  returning  for  the  most  part,  gratified  by  a  compe- 
tent share  of  both.  When  the  tide  permits,  about  noon,  as 
many  as  wish  to  enjoy,  to  the  utmost,  every  breeze  of  sea 
air,  parade  the  sandy  beach,  and  compose  one  of  the  most 


M  SCARBOROUGH. 

cheerful  medleys.  The  warmest  conception  would  perhaps 
be  inadequate  to  the  beauty  and  the  liveliness  which  the 
sands  then  display.  Splendid  chariots,  towering  phaetons, 
and  parties  on  horseback,  vary  the  scene :  thus,  each 
pursues  the  most  eligible  or  convenient  method  of  enjoying 
the  salutary  exhalation,  and  takes  sea  water  in  at  every 
breath.  Added  to  this,  is  a  rich  assemblage  of  freed  objects  ; 
the  semi-circle  of  a  sloping  town,  and  all  its  motley-coloured 
houses,  church,  and  castle,  which  spread  out  an  uncom- 
monly fine  back-ground  ;  while  the  sea  opens  to  the  S.  E.  a 
boundless  expanse,  sometimes  adorned  by  passing  fleets, 
or  many  a  sail  of  straggling  ships,  coasting  along :  the  eye 
seems  never  tired  with  such  a  view ;  which  it  is  as  difficult  to 
describe  justly,  as  to  quit  without  reluctance.  The  usual 
dinner-hour  at  Scarborough  is  four :  about  seven,  the  cliff- 
promenade,  the  beach,  and  plantation-walk,  are  thronged 
with  groups  of  pedestrians. 

There  scarcely  can  be  two  sea  rides  so  near  each  other, 
as  the  north  sands,  and  those  below  Scarborough  cliff, 
more  agreeably  contrasted.  We  would  much  recommend 
the  north  sands,  to  those  unable,  or  disinclined  to  mix  in  the 
gay  morning  throng,  when  they  take  the  sea  air. 

The  Assembly  Rooms,  at  Bonner's  Hotel,  in  Long-Room 
Street,  are  commodious  and  well  adapted  for  the  purpose  ; 
but  the  company  who  resort  here  appear  to  prefer  other 
amusements  to  dancing,  consequently  our  assemblies  are 
but  thinly  attended.  The  company  at  Mrs.  Hodgens's  Board- 
ing House  frequently  "  trip  it  on  the  light  fantastic  toe,"  in 


SCARBOROUGH.  43 

an  evening,  when  other  modes  of  entertainment  fail  of  suc- 
cess. While  on  this  subject,  we  cannot  resist  the  opportunity 
of  recommending  to  notice  a  custom,  which  we  regret  is  al- 
most peculiar  to  the  city  of  Lincoln,  which  is,  the  frequent 
holding  of  subscription  meetings,  under  the  name  of  chari- 
table assemblies.  When  any  inhabitant,  of  good  character, 
is  overtaken  by  sudden  misfortune,  any  respectable  widow 
burdened  with  a  number  of  children,  or  aged  man  incapable 
of  providing  for  his  own  support ;  some  leading  lady  or 
gentleman  steps  forward,  and  solicits,  by  public  invitation, 
the  company  of  the  charitable  at  an  assembly  for  the 
benefit  of  the  sufferer.  Every  repectable  individual  thinks 
himself  bound  in  honour  to  attend,  and,  on  entering  the 
room,  gives  what  he  pleases  to  the  patroness  or  patron  of  the 
meeting,  who  collects  the  subscriptions.  The  generous  soli- 
citors are  considered  as  treasurers,  paying  out  of  the  fund 
the  expenses  of  the  assembly,  and  presenting  the  overplus 
in  such  periodical  sums  as  they  think  proper,  to  the  object 
of  that  evening's  charity.  The  subscription  is  always  suffi- 
ciently large  to  relieve  the  distressed  persons.  Eight  or 
nine  of  these  assemblies  are  sometimes  made  in  a  year,  and 
produce  a  sum,  (thus  voluntarily  given  to  objects  who, 
otherwise,  must  either  have  been  starved,  or  at  least  solely 
supported  by  their  respective  parishes)  at  the  average  of 
almost  four  hundred  per  annum  * ." 

*  Those  who  wish  for  farther  information  on  the  subject,  are 
referred  to  the  History  of  Lincoln,  published  by  the  proprietor  of 
tliis  work. 


44  SCARBOROUGH. 

The  following  valuable  Observations  are  Extracts  from  a  very 
useful  little  book,  entitled  "  The  Perambulator's  Guide 
to  the  Scarborough  Sands,"  for  which  we  are  indebted 
to  Mr.  John  Bleckly,  of  York. 

It  should  be  observed,  that  as  the  time  of  high  water  as 
well  as  the  height  of  the  tide  is  varying  every  day,  your 
arrangements  both  for  walking  and  riding  upon  the  sand, 
as  well  as  for  bathing  or  igoing  upon  the  sea,  should  all  of 
them  in  some  sort  be  regulated  by  it.  Thus,  if  you  propose 
to  walk  to  the  Nab  *  before  dinner,  you  should  take  a  day 
when  it  is  high  water  between  seven  and  eight  o'clock, 
and  commence  your  walk  about  ten,  after  which  there  will 
be  three  hours  of  falling  tide,  and  three  hours  after  that  of 
rising  water,  in  which  you  may  return  upon  the  same  walk- 
ing ground. 

This  rule  will  apply  to  the  North  as  well  as  to  the  South 
Sands,  and  indeed  ought  to  be  uniformly  observed  when- 
ever you  propose  to  take  a  long  walk  by  the  sea-side ;  more 
especially  on  the  approach  of  evening.  On  every  occa- 
sion of  this  sort,  you  should  take  care  that  the  time  of  high 
water  be  not  earlier  than  one,  nor  later  than  three  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon ;  for  under  either  of  these  circumstances 
it  will  not  be  low  water  sooner  than  from  six  to  eight, 
which  will  always  leave  you  in  possession  of  good  walking 
ground,  and  a  broad  field  view  under  the  shadows  of  the 

*  The  Nab  is  a  point  projecting  into  the  Sea,  about  a  mile  from 
the  Spaw,  in  the  direct  road  to  Carneliau  Bay. 


SCARBOROUGH. 


2 


evening,  ere  the  curtain  of  night  closes  upon  all  the  surT 
rounding  objects.  It  may  be  proper  in  this  plaoe  to  state, 
that  two  days  after  the  new  and  the  full  moon,  when  the 
tides  are  at  the  highest,  they  fall  as  much  below,  as  they 
rise  above  their  ordinary  places,  and  that  consequently  the 
run  of  water  is  accelerated  and  increased  as  much  as  the 
difference  between  high  and  low-water  mark  at  the  neap 
and  at  the  spring  tides.  This  circumstance  is  mentioned 
that  strangers  may  not  only  be  upon  their  guard,  but  avail 
themselves  of  every  opportunity  to  inspect  the  coast,  and 
behold,  under  all  the  advantages  of  light  and  shade,  the 
splendid  scenery. 

The  next  subject  which  presses  upon  your  notice,  is  the 
alternately  tranquil  and  agitated  state  of  the  sea,  arising 
solely  from  the  influence  of  the  tide  ;  for  it  will  be  found, 
when  there  is  but  little  wind,  that  the  waters  are  in  a  state 
of  equilibrium  for  about  an  hour,  at  the  period  of  both  high 
and  low  water;  and  that  as  the  tide  begins  gradually  to 
recede  or  advance,  the  pouting  Upper  soon  becomes  a 
restless  wave.  This  circumstance  will  naturally  suggest 
to  those  who  intend  to  bathe,  and  are  not  very  partial  to  a 
boisterous  sea,  that  their  convenience  and  their  comfort 
may  be  easily  consulted,  and  that  the  fears  and  the  tears 
of  children  in  particular,  may  be  greatly  abated.  It  is  also 
deserving  the  attention  of  all  who  intend  to  bathe,  that  a 
rising  water  is  always  to  be  preferred,  and  if  within  an 
hour  or  two  of  high  water,  the  better.  The  first  part  of 
these  observations  are  equally  applicable  to  those  who  in- 


46  SCARBOROUGH. 

tend  to  go  upon  the  sea  ;  and  if  attended  to,  may  be  made 
productive  of  high  gratification  and  benefit  to  many,  who 
would  otherwise  never  dare  to  venture  upon  the  unstable 
element ;  but,  for  the  convenience  of  such,  it  should  be 
remembered,  that  with  a  serene  sky,  as  soon  as  the  tide  is 
half  flood,  or  within  three  hours  of  high  water,  the  waves 
will  gradually  subside  into  a  perfect  calm.  The  parties 
may  then  take  an  excursion  for  an  hour  or  two  upon  smooth 
water,  and  return  with  the  natural  impulse  of  a  flowing 
tide.  To  those  who  are  indifferent  to  this  consideration, 
to  say  no  more  of  it,  it  would  always  be  a  matter  of  conve- 
nience and  sound  policy  to  go  to  sea  within  an  hour  or  two 
before  or  after  low  water,  according  to  the  length  of  time 
they  purpose  to  stay  out,  ever  bearing  in  mind,  that  it  is 
easier  to  return  with  than  against  the  tide.  These  remarks 
will  also  be  serviceable  to  those  who  are  fond  of  Fishing, 
where  they  are  provided  with  good  tackle,  plenty  of  fresh 
bait,  and  a  full  supply  of  patience :  clear  water  is  not 
always  .the  most  favourable  for  the  diversion,  although 
smooth  water  is  more  agreeable  to  inland  fishermen. 

You  should  observe  that  proper  bait  of  some  kinds  is 
only  to  be  obtained  at  low  water,  and  that  it  is  always 
safest  to  be  your  own  maTketman,  to  prevent  disappoint- 
ment at  the  time  of  embarkation.  The  best  chance  of  suc- 
cess in  fishing  from  the  Pier-head  is  to  commence  about 
two  hours  after  low  water,  and  if  the  wind  be  favourable, 
the  fish  in  the  season,  on  their  way  into  the  harbour,  will 
bite  vefy  freely. 


8CARBOROUr.il.  47 


THE  TOWN  NEWS-ROOM  AND  LIBRARY 

are  situated  on  the  verge  of  the  cliff,  at  the  bottom  of  King- 
Street.  Strangers,  as  well  as  residents,  have  access  to  the 
news-room  ;  the  subscription  for  the  season  being  10s.  6d. 
The  library  is  a  permanent  one,  and  being  established  as 
well  by  gentlemen  in  the  country,  as  those  in  the  town,  has 
received  the  appellation  of  The  Agricultural  Library.  A 
room  for  billiards  is  also  attached  to  this  building. 

The  governor  of  the  Spaw  takes  in  newspapers  at  his 
rooms  on  the  Spaw  terrace ;  one  of  which  rooms  is  devoted 
to  the  use  of  the  ladies,  and  the  other  to  the  gentlemen. 
The  subscription  is  5s.  per  month.  There  is  too  a  Sub- 
scription News-Room  at  Cole's  Library. 

Those  visitants  who  wish  to  receive  papers  at  their  lodg- 
ings, may  have  them  ordered  on  application  at  the  Libraries. 

Besides  this  general  library,  a  society  for  periodical 
Literature  has  been  formed  at  Cole's,  bookseller,  in  which 
almost  every  Magazine  and  Review  which  issues  from  the 
press,  is  taken. 

n 

Amongst  the  curiosities  of  the  town,  independently  of 
it's  own  bold  and  varied  charms,  may  be  mentioned  the 
Museums  of  Thomas  Hinderwell,  Esq.,  and  Mr.  Bean  ;  the 


48  SCARBOROUGH. 

latter  of  which  is  particularly  rich  in  British  shells,  form- 
ing one  of  the  most  complete  collections  in  the  kingdom. 
The  Proprietors  will  readily  show  their  respective  Museums 
to  Visitants,  on  being  properly  introduced. 

Minerals  and  Fossils  are  pretty  plentifully  strewed  over 
this  coast,  and  the  search  for  them  forms  many  a  morning's 
amusement*.  There  is  an  interesting  page  or  two  on  this 
subject  in  "  Prose  by  a  Poet." 

The  following  observations  on  a  vrustaceous  animal,  found 
by  Mr.  Dunn  in  the  Castle-hill,  in  grey  earth,  contempo- 
raneous with  Oxford  clay,  beneath  calcareous  grit,  were 
•made  by  Mr.  J.  Phillips,  Geologist  : 

"  The  first  specimen  with  entire  arms  which  has  fallen 
under  my  notice  ;  and  the  first  hitherto  discovered  in  the 
Oxford  clay  formation. 

"  As  far  as  I  know,  the  lowest  stratum  in  which  crusta- 
ceous  animals  have  been  found,  is  the  inferior  oolite  ;  they 
are  not  scarce  in  the  superior  strata,  particularly  in  the 
London  clay.  A  few  more  of  these  discoveries  will  shew 
that  such  animals  have  existed  during  the  formation  of  all 
the  intermediate  rocks." 

*  Parties  who  wish  to  devote  much  time  to  these  excursions, 
may  be  supplied  with  a  Guide  to  direct  them  to  the  best  situations, 
an  application  at  Cole's  Library. 


COLE'S  LIBRA. 


"  If  you  for  reading  feel  inclin'd, 
A  store  of  books  to  suit  your  mind 
At  Cole's  deposit'ry  you  will  find." 


Bisset. 


This  prominent  and  conspicuous  building  is  situated  at  the 
upper  end  of  Newborough*,  at  the  corner  of  Tanner-Street, 

»  An  interior  view  is  given  in  the  "  Poetical  Sketches  of  Scar- 
borough," accompanied  by  the  following  lines  :--- 


50  SCARBOROUGH. 

fronting  Long-Room  Street,  and  projecting  considerably 
beyond  the  opposite  side  of  Tanner-Street,  commands  a 
pleasing  view  down  Newborough,  which  is  handsome,  wide, 
and  well  built,  "  striking  the  traveller  with  an  agreeable 
idea  of  comfort  and  improvement.  It's  ground  plat,  on  a 
gradual  descent,  is  nearly  a  thousand  feet  in  length,  and 
mostly  about  fifty  wide.  The  houses  have  a  modern  and 
cheerful  air,  and  are  chiefly  built  of  brick.  A  very  excel- 
lent pavement,  about  nine  feet  wide,  on  each  side,  most 
usefully  adorns  the  whole."  »The  second  opening  on  the 
left,  exhibits  Queen  Street,  which  is  wide  and  handsome, 
chiefly  occupied  by  genteel  families. 

From  the  Library,  which  is  considerably  elevated,  an 
extensive  view  not  only  of  the  town,  but  also  of  the  Castle, 

"  Now  Literature  no  more  appals, 
Immur'd  'midst  gloom  of  cloistered  walls, 
But  with  a  winning  grace  unbends 
To  treat  us  all  like  common  friends  5 
And  readily  her  store  supplies, 
To  make  men  good,  and  great,  and  wise. 
Fair  History  unfolds  her  page, 
To  spread  the  truths  of  every  age ; 
Records  the  deeds  by  heroes  done, 
How  well  they  end,  how  well  begun  ; 
Remove  the  mark  of  vice  and  fraud, 
And  what  is  truly  great  applaud. 
And  in  life's  tide,  by  careful  fate, 
The  mind  la  made  to  circulate. 
Just  so  each  watering-place  supplies 
It'i  Circulating  Libraries." 


SCARBOROUGH. 


51 


may  be  enjoyed,  which  here  forms  an  interesting  back- 
ground to  the  scene.  This  building  was  formerly  used  as 
a  Coffee-House,  by  which  name  it  is  now  well  known  by 
many  of  it's  visitors,  as  well  as  by  the  inhabitants. 

One  of  it's  Masters,  who  was  a  person  of  great  humour 
and  ingenuity,  having  been  often  solicited  by  the  company 
who  frequented  his  house,  to  introduce  Bristol  Water  to 
his  table,  substituted  the  Castle  Water  in  it's  place.  The 
deception  was  carried  on  with  great  dexterity.  The  wax 
upon  the  corks  bore  the  impression  of  the  Bristol  seal.  A 
fresh  importation  was  pretended  to  be  made  every  season, 
warranted  from  the  Fountain-head  ;  and  the  Connoisseurs 
pronounced  it  genuine.  But  the  ingenuity  of  the  contriver 
failed  him  in  an  unguarded  hour.  He  had,  in  a  convivial 
partv,  taken  too  much  wine,  and  in  the  confusion  of  an 
intoxicated  moment,  the  Bristol  seal  was  applied  to  a  bottle 
of  Sherry,  which  was  hastily  sent  up  to  the  table,  even 
before  the  wax  had  time  to  cool.  This  unlucky  circum- 
stance occasioned  a  discovery ;  and  the  master  of  the 
Coffee-house  not  only  received  a  severe  reprimand  for  the 
imposition,  but  was  obliged  ever  after,  as  it's  reputation 
was  established,  to  suppjyjthe  water grath,     .... 

In  "  A  Journey  from  London  to  Scarborough,"  performed 
in  1733,  the  following  occurs  respecting  this  house : — 

"In  the  High-Street,  over  against  the  Long- Room  Street, 
is  the  Coffee-house,  to  which  gentlemen  subscribe  half-a- 
crown,  and  have  the  use  of  pen,  ink,  and  paper,  for  tu« 
season." 


■52  SCARBOROUGH. 

It  was  first  opened  as  a  Library  and  Bookseller's  Shop, 
in  the  year  1811,  in  which  business  it  has  continued  to  the 
present  period,  but  with  a  change  of  occupants. 

The  collection  of  Books  here  appropriated  for  circulation 
is  numerous,  and  consists  of  several  valuable  works  in 
History,  Voyages,  Travels,  and  Biography,  as  well  as  an 
extensive  assemblage  of  light  summer-reading  in  Novels, 
Romances,  and  Tales*.  The  Printing  business  is  also 
carried  on  upon  these  premises. 

Although  Printing  was  not  introduced  so  early  here  as  at 
some  of  the  neighbouring  towns  t,  it  may  not  prove  uninter- 
esting to  mention  the  time  when  the  first  press  was  erected 
at  Scarborough,  in  the  words  of  the  celebrated  Tliomas  Gent, 
who  was  the  person  that  fixed  the  apparatus. 

C"  I  beg  leave  to  mention  here,  as  a  memorial,  that  a 
Printing-Office  was  first  set  up  by  me  in  Scarborough,  about 
June  16,  1734,  in  a  house  in  Mr.  Bland's  Lane,  formerly 
called  his  Cliff ;  a  most  pleasant  situation,  leading  to  the 
beautiful  sands." 
/-—— *      Prom  the  "  Journey"  before  mentioned,  we  extract  the 

A/ 
v  •  A  Catalogue  of  the  Books  which  compose  this  collection,  has 

lately  been  published,  and  an   Addenda,  confining  the  newest 

works,  has  just  made  it's  appearance. 

t  The  first  production  of  the  Yoik  Press  was  the  Pica  of  the 
Cathedral  Church,  by  Hugh  Goes ;  (1509,)  who  is  said  by  Herbert 
to  have  printed,  at  Beverley,  a  broadside, — being  a  wood-cut  of  a 
man  on  horseback,  with  a  spear  in  his  right  hand,  and  tbe  arms 
of  France  in  his  left. — Home's  Bibliog. 


SCARBOROUGH.  53 

following,  as  being  descriptive  of  the  Customs  practised  at 
the  Library  at  that  period : — 

"  In  the  Long- Room  Street  is  the  Bookseller's  Shop  ; 
where  Ladies  and  Gentlemen  subscribe  five  shillings,  for 
which  they  have  the  use  of  any  Books  during  the  season, 
and  take  them  home  to  their  lodgings.  Here  are  also 
raffles  for  books  ;  if  the  persons  who  win  do  not  like  their 
books,  they  have  the  choice  of  any  others  of  the  same 
value*. 


The  notice  of  Private  Libraries  will  here  appropriately 
appear  :  the  most  celebrated  one  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Scarborough,  is  that  of  Mr.  Archdeacon  Wrangham,  at 
Hunmanby ;  but  Scarborough  itself  possesses  a  few  desirable 
Collections,  in  which  are  several  emblazoned  first  editions 
of  works  on  Heraldry,  an  unique  Tussbr,  and  many  other 
bibliographical  treasures. 

POST-OFFICE. 

The  Office  is  situated  on  Palace-Hill,  at  the  bottom  of 
Newborough-Street.  The  Post  arrives  at  half-past  six 
every  morning,  and  goes  out  at  half-past  one ;  no  letters 
out  on  Friday  for  London,  and  none  received  thence  on 
Tuesdays. 

*  It  appears  that  the  proprietors  of  this  establishment  were 
Ccesar  Ward  and  Richard  Chandler,  who  were  London  Booksellers 
and  Publishers,  at  the  Ship,  between  the  Temple  Gates,  Fleet- 
Street. 


54  SCARBOROUGH. 

Steam-Packets.  The  City  of  Edinburgh  and  the  James 
Watt  call  off  the  port  regularly  to  London  on  Thursday 
morning,  to  Edinburgh  on  Thursday  afternoon. 

Information  respecting  the  Packets  from  Scarborough  to 
London,  may  be  had  on  application  to  Mr.  Marflitt,  or  Mr. 
Edmond. 

The  Carriers  to  York  are  Thomas  Burniston,  who  lives 
near  the  gates,  and  Sarah  Craggs,  at  the  bottom  of  New- 
borough  ;  they  both  start  at  twelve  o'clock  on  Mondays  and 
Thursdays. 

The  Carrier  to  Hull  is  John  Bell,  Cross-Street,  who  starts 
on  Mondays  and  Thursdays,  at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
and  returns  on  Wednesday,  at  five  in  the  afternoon,  and 
on  Saturday  at  nine  in  the  morning. 

Carriers  to  Whitby ;  John  Bell,  and  John  Annan, 
Long-Room  Street,  on  Sundays  and  Thursdays. 

Carrier  to  Bridlington  ;  Porter  Owston,  starts  at  nine 
o'clock  in  the  morning  from  the  Star  Inn,  on  Tuesdays  and 
Fridays. 

Horses  are  let  out  by  Mark  Dove,  and  by  William 
Peacock,  in  Queen-Street ;  by  Thomas  Wilson,  and  by 
Jonathan  Major,  Newborough-Street ;  Thomas  Glaves, 
and  Mr.  Marshall,  Tanner-Street ;  Joseph  Holmes,  Mer- 
chants'-Row ;  and  Matthew  Beecroft,  without  the  gates. 
Mark  Dove  has  also  two  Landaus,  one  drawn  by  two  black 
Ponies  with  long  tails,  the  other  by  two  beautiful  bays. 
The  latter  Landau  has  a  false  head  for  the  fore  part,  to 


SCARBOROUGH-  55 

join  to  the  hind  part,  which  keeps  it  entirely  free  from  rain. 
William  Peacock  also  lets  Landaus  and  Pony  Carriages  ; 
and  William  Donkin,  a  poor  blind  man  in  Hall's-Square, 
has  an  elegant  Pony  Carriage  for  hire. 

Donkies  conveniently  caparisoned,  and  Pony- Carriages, 
will  be  found  in  waiting  at  the  foot  of  the  Terrace  every 
day,  and  may  be  engaged  by  the  hour. 

In  1821  was  built  a  Life-Boat  upon  Mr.  Greathead's 
plan  at  Scarborough.  Donations  for  keeping  it  in  repair, 
&c.  are  received  at  the  Libraries. 

A  Humane  Society  for  the  recovery  of  persons  in  a  state 
of  suspended  animation  from  drowning,  &c.  has  been  lately 
formed  at  Scarborough ;  subscriptions  for  the  support  of 
which,  are,  also,  received  at  the  Libraries. 

A  Lancasterian  School  has  lately  been  opened,  and  to  it 
subscriptions  will  be  thankfully  received. 

Drawing  Masters. — Mr.  Baynes,  jun.  portrait  and 
animal  painter,  has  a  small  exhibition  of  pictures,  &c.  at 
his  rooms  in  Newborough-Street,  and  teaches  Drawing ;  as 
does  Mr.  Hartley  in  Huntriss'  Row,  and  Mr.  Stubbs  in 

Long- Room  Street. Drawings  are  let  out  from  Cole's 

Library. 

Music  Master. — Mr.  Hartley. 

French  Masters. — Mons.  de  Laube  and  Mr.  Hornsey. 

Dancing  Masters  usually  attend  during  the  season. 

Bankers. — Messrs.  Woodall  and  Co.,  Queen-Street. 

Piano-Fortes  are  let  out  by  Mr.  Wilson,  Music-seller, 
Long- Room  Street ;    Mr.  Cracknell,   Cliff;   Mr.  Hartley, 


56  SCARBOROUGH1. 

I  Junt rigs'  Row  ;  Mrs.  Ainswortk,  Newborough-Slreet ;  an* 
Mr.  Linwood,  Merchants'-Row. 

The  following  Coaches  set  off  from  the  Bell  bin : — 

The  Royal  York  Mail  Coach,  every  Monday,  Wednes- 
day, Friday,  and  Saturday  afternoon,  at  half  past  one 
o'clock. 

The  Leeds  True  Blue  Coach,  every  morning  at  eight 
o'clock,  from  the  Bell  and  Bull  Inns,  alternate  weeks. 

The  Wellington  Hull  Coach,  every  day  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted) by  way  of  Bridlington  and  Driffield,  at  half-past 
six  o'clock. 

The  Whitby  Diligence,  every  Sunday  and  Wednesday, 
at  eight  o'clock. 

The  Royal  Union  to  York  and  Leeds,  starts  at  seven  in 
the  morning ;  on  Monday  and  Tuesday  from  the  Nag's 
Head,  Wednesday  and  Thursday  from  the  London  Inn, 
and  Friday  and  Saturday  from  the  George  Inn. 

The  Highflyer  for  York  and  Leeds  starts  at  a  quarter 
before  ten  every  morning ;  on  Saturday  and  Monday  from 
the  Talbot,  Tuesday  and  Wednesday  from  the  New  Inn, 
Thursday  and  Friday  from  the  Plough  Inn. 

The  following  from  the  Plough  Inn : — 

The  British  Queen  Hull  Coach  every  morning  at  seven 
o'clock. 

The  Prince  Blucher  Post  Coach,  for  York  and  Leeds, 
every  morning  at  seven  o'clock. 


SCARBOROUGH.  57 

The  Express  to  Hull,  at  seven  in  the  morning,  from  the 
New  Inn. 

The  last  season  was  a  brilliant  one  ;  and  when  that  is 
the  case,  we  must  pronounce  Scarborough  a  most  delightful 
residence  :  it's  situation  is  noble,  gTand,  and  romantic ; 
it's  beauties  innumerable ;  it's  vicinity  picturesque  and 
varied  ;  it's  advantages,  in  short,  are  very  great.  Several 
improvements  have  taken  place  since  last  year,  and,  in 
addition  to  the  Edinburgh  Packets,  one  now  plies  be- 
tween Hull  and  Scarborough  * ;  besides  which,  is  a  new 
Coach  to  that  place,  and  many  alterations  are  yet  in  con- 
templation. But,  in  spite  of  these  successes,  we  must 
confess  that  there  is  now  much  more  crying  in  Scarborough 
than  there  was  last  year  :  some,  perhaps,  will  know  how 
to  account  for  this  strange  inconsistency. 

Lodgings. — The  Cliff  lodgings  hold  the  first  place  in 
point  of  situation  and  other  advantages  :  the  new  houses  of 
Mr.  Edmond,  Mr.  Hopper,  and  Mr.  Cowling,  on  Bland's 
Cliff;  of  Mr.  Cooper,  near  the  News-Room  Steps ;  Ma- 
rine House,  at  the  foot  of  the  steps ;  and  those  on  Bruns- 
wick-Terrace and  Albion- Place,  also  boast  their  sea  pros- 
pects ;  nor  must  the  two  commodious  houses  lately  erected 
by  Mr.  Bean,  near  Dr.  Harland's  Baths,  be  omitted,  or 
Mulgrave  Place,  near  the  Church.  They  are  in  genera1 
clean,  airy,  and  furnished  in  good  style.  The  Cliff-houses, 
&c.  are  usually   engaged  by  the  month ;    but  there  is  a 

»  In  10  hours.     Fore-Cabin,  8s. ;   BeBt  Cabin,  12*. 


58  SCARBOROUGH. 

customary  charge  of  12s.  per  week  for  each,  room,  in 
different  parts  of  the  town ;  linen  is  furnished,  but  the 
washing  is  an  extra  charge. 

Mrs.  Hodgens,  and  Miss  Robinson,  in  Huntriss'-Row  ; 
Mr.  Peter  Brown,  in  Newborough- Street ;  Miss  Banks,  in 
Merchants'-Row ;  Mr.  Cooper,  on  the  Sands ;  and  Mr. 
Thompson,  in  Tanner-Street,  are  Directors  of  Boarding- 
houses,  and  furnish  a  daily  table  for  the  accommodation 
of  their  respective  lodgers.  Besides  these,  there  are  Ordi- 
naries at  the  different  Inns,  from  which,  or  from  the  Board- 
ing-houses, dinners  are  sent  to  all  parts  of  the  town,  at 
varied  rates,  according  to  the  articles  ordered  ;  the  lowest 
charge  being  2s. 

HOTELS. 

Mr.  Dormer's  Hotel  is  delightfully  situated  in  Long- 
Room  Street,  commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  ocean ;  and 
Mr.  Houson's  (formerly  the  Bull  Inn)  is  at  the  top  of 
Newborough-Street ;  both  which  afford  first-rate  accom- 
modations. 

INNS. 

The  Bell  Inn,  Bland's  Cliff;  the  Blacksmith's  Arms, 
Queen-Street:  both  of  these  are  posting-houses,  besides 
Mr.  Coates's,  Huntriss'-Row.  Other  respectable  Inns  are 
as  follow  :  Talbot  Inn,  Queen-Street ;  New  Inn,  London 
Inn,  Nag's-head,  Newborough-Street;  Plough  Inn,  Tanner- 
Street,  and  many  others  of  respectability. 


SCARBOROUGH.  59 

The  following  Observations  from  "  A  Tour  to  Scar- 
borough, in  1803,"  by  W.  Hutton,  F.A.S.S.,  will  afford 
farther  information : — 

"  The  accommodations  we  found  were  of  three  sorts; 
to  take  a  furnished  house,  if  a  family  arrived,  which  may 
be  done  from  six  to  ten  guineas  a  week ;  or,  take  apart- 
ments in  a  family,  and  find  food  and  servants  yourself; 
or  board  and  lodge  in  a  family  at  a  stated  price.  We 
chose  the  last.  The  terms  were  twenty-five  shillings  a 
week  each,  for  my  daughter  and  me,  exclusive  of  tea  and 
liquor,  and  ten  shillings  each  for  a  bed.  The  servant  half, 
or  seventeen  shillings  and  sixpence,  and  the  same  sum  for 
the  horse,  including  corn." 

The  markets  for  butchers'  meat  and  poultry  are  on  Thurs- 
days and  Saturdays  :  the  first  by  far  the  most  considerable. 
Yet  during  the  summer,  meat  is  slaughtered  six  days  in 
the  week.  Compared  with  neighbouring  markets,  that  of 
Scarborough  is  not  a  dear  one.  It  has  been  long  famous 
for  it's  excellent  moor-mutton.  Poultry  and  vegetables, 
especially  potatoes,  are  here  abundant. 

There  is  a  traditionary  report  that  the  old  Market-place 
was  situated  to  the  north,  behind  the  covered  ropery,  near 
St.  Mary's  Church ;  and  the  great  Blue  Stone,  which  is 
to  be  seen  there,  is  said  to  have  been  the  place  where  pub- 
lic bargains  were  ratified  and  discharged.  The  stone  is 
Basalt,  of  nearly  the  same  quality  as  the  remarkable  Whin- 
dyke  on  the  high  moors.  It  was  probably  found  in  the  di- 
luvial matter  which  abounds  on  this  coast. 


60  SCARBOROUGH. 

The  market  was  kept  upon  the  sands  in  the  reign  of  Ed- 
ward VI.  It  has  also  been  held  in  other  parts  of  the 
town  ;  the  remains  of  a  very  ancient  Market-cross  are  still 
standing:  "it  clearly  appears,"  writes  Hutton,  "  that  it 
was  once  a  grand  piece  of  architecture,  of  Saxon  make,  a 
thousand  years  old,  and  that  Scarborough  is  a  very  ancient 
market  town." 

The  following  observations  on  this  Cross  are  by  the  His- 
torian of  Wakefield : — 

"  Scarborough,  4th  July,  1825." 
"  Mr.  Cole, 

"  Dear  Sir, 
"  I  am  sorry  to  differ  from  the  late  venerable  historian 
of  Birmingham,  respecting  the  ancient  Pillar  or  Obelisk  in 
Church-Street ;  but,  after  a  minute  examination,  I  think  T 
may  confidently  affirm,  that  it  never  '  was  a  grand  piece  of 
architecture,'  as  he  states.  Some  old  inhabitants  informed 
me,  that  it  formerly  stood  in  the  centre  of  the  Street,  but 
was  removed  to  it's  present  situation  at  the  angle  to  make 
room  for  carriages  to  pass.  To  me  it  is  evident,  that  the 
round  stone  forming  the  base,  was  originally  the  uppermost 
step  of  the  Market  Cross,  and  that  this  Cross  becoming 
dilapidated,  the  lower  steps  were  removed,  whilst  a 
crocketed  pinnacle,  probably  from  the  ruins  of  the  Church, 
was  inserted  in  this  uppermost  step,  to  supply  the  place  of 
the  former  shaft,  which  time  or  injury  had  taken  away.  It 
is  well  known  that  a  stone  of  any  kind,  so  long  as  it  is  a 


SCARBOROUGH.  61 

■sufficiently  visible  object,  served  to  distinguish  the-  place 
where  Markets  were  or  had  been  held, — for  instance,  the 
block  of  Basalt  near  St.  Mary's :  and  I  am  myself  ac- 
quainted with  several  Market-places,  where  the  original 
Cross  has  been  supplied  by  blocks  or  pillars,  totally  differ- 
ing from  it,  as  in  the  present  case.  My  opinion  therefore 
is,  that  the  Pillar  you  wished  me  to  examine,  never  formed 
part  of  the  original  Cross,  but  was  substituted  for  it  at  it's 
decay,  either  from  ruins  in  the  present  Church-yard,  or 
from  the  one  formerly  on  the  Cliff." 

"  I  am,  dear  Sir, 

"  Your's  very  truly, 

"  J.  L.  Sisson." 

It  may  prove  interesting  to  give  the  origin  of  the  phrase  : 
"  Scarborough  warning ;  a  word  and  a  blow,  but  the  blow 
first." 

"  In  the  reign  of  Queen  Mary,  Mr.  Thomas  Stafford, 
son  of  Lord  Stafford,  obtained  possession  of  Scarborough 
Castle  by  the  following  stratagem  : 

"  Having  previously  arranged  his  plan  of  taking  the 
"Castle  by  surprise,  he  disguised  his  troop  in  the  habit  of 
peasants  and  countrymen,  and  came  to  Scarborough  on  a 
market-day,  under  the  most  unsuspicious  appearances.  He 
gained  an  easy  admittance  into  the  Castle,  and  strolled 
about  with  a  careless  air,  apparently  to  gratify  his  curio- 


62 


SCATtBOROUCH. 


sity.  About  thirty  of  his  men  also  entered  without  the 
least  suspicion,  and  embracing  a  favourable  opportunity, 
instantly  secured  the  different  centinels ,  took  possession  of 
the  gate,  and  admitted  their  remaining  companions,  who, 
under  the  exterior  garb  of  countrymen,  had  concealed 
arms.  But  the  triumph  of  Mr.  Stafford  was  of  transient 
duration,  and  the  success  of  his  enterprise  was  eventually 
the  cause  of  his  death.  He  had  retained  the  possession 
only  three  days,  when  the  Earl  of  Westmoreland,  with  a 
considerable  force,  recovered  it  without  loss. — Mr.  Staf- 
ford, Capt.  Saunders,  and  three  other  of  the  leaders,  were 
taken  prisoners,  conducted  to  London,  and  confined  in  the 
Tower.  They  were  afterwards  arraigned,  condemned,  and 
executed." 


WALKS  IN  THE  IMMEDIATE  VICINITY  OF 
SCARBOROUGH. 

The  field  for  exercise  at  Scarborough  will  be  found  suffi- 
<aently  ample,  and  the  walks  or  rides  of  a  pleasingly  varied 
description.  After  the  most  heavy  rains,  the  Beach  is  in 
a  few  minutes  dry  and  fit  for  a  place  of  promenade.  The 
plantation,  which  consists  of  the  several  varieties  of  trees 
and  shrubs,  which  form  a  shade  to  the  tastefully  laid  walks, 
is  situated  near  the  sands,  and  is  liberally  thrown  open  to 
the  public  by  the  corporation.  Varied  and  interesting  views 
may  be  obtained  from  several  openings,  and  particularly 
from  the  eminence  called  the  Grove-head,  which  is  at  the 


SCARBOROUGH.  63 

extremity  of  the  Plantation-Walk,  in  the  immediate  en- 
virons of  Scarborough,  at  the  back  of  a  fine  piece  of  water, 
which  from  hence  appears  an  effective  object.  Imme- 
diately before  us,  on  the  descent  of  the  hill,  called  Grove- 
head,  (on  the  smooth  surface  of  which  are  benches,  capa- 
ble of  accommodating  a  numerous  party)  a  plantation  of 
thriving  young  oaks  presents  itself.  Through  this  is 
cut  a  winding  path,  leading  to  the  before-mentioned  piece 
of  water,  which  is  encompassed  with  a  bank,  admirably 
adapted  for  promenading  ;  being  adorned  by  a  plantation, 
which  in  a  few  years  will  render  this  a  charming  shade  in 
the  meridian  heat  of  the  Scarborough  season.  At  the  foot 
of  this  lake  appears  a  retreat,  called  Mill-Cottage,  re- 
cently erected,  the  very  picture  of  rural  neatness  and 
elegance ;  in  front  is  seen  a  pleasing  plot  of  garden 
ground,  and  when  a  few  more  years  shall  have  fled,  we 
may  hope  to  find  it  embosomed  in  verdant  foliage.  To  the 
right  of  the  buildings  connected  with  the  Mill,  appears  a 
delightful  opening  through  the  path  of  the  valley,  affording 
a  view  of  old  ocean's  bed,  where 


•  "  Ride  the  ships 


In  that  enchanting  bay,  with  streamers  curl'd, 
And  panting  sails,  that,  whiten'd  by  the  sun, 
Glisten  afar." 

Between  the  hills,  the  eye  is  conducted  along  the  dark 
blue  waves,  until  they  seem  to  unite  with  the  similarly 
coloured  clouds.  The  Light-house,  raising  it's  whitened 
tower,  is  a  conspicuous  object.    To  the  left  arise  those 


64  SCARBOROUGH. 


"  Lofty  tow'rs  that,  lusty  still  In  age, 

Display  their  scarry  fronts  to  distant  leagues," 

"  the  Citadel,  and  it's  hoary  walls,"  which  present  an  ef- 
fective back-ground  to  the  landscape. 

At  the  foot  of  Grove-head  falls  a  small  cascade,  and  be- 
hind, a  lofty  eminence,  called  Mount- Oliver,  overlooks  the 
town.  It  is  thus  called  from  a  mistaken  notion,  that 
Cromwell  erected  batteries  here  against  the  Castle,  during 
the  siege,  in  1644-5.  It  is  au  indisputable  historical  fact, 
that  Cromwell  was  never  present  at  this  siege. 

"  Those  who  have  ascended  this  mount,  since  the  in- 
closure  in  1797,  will  not  th/nk  that  in  grandeur  of 
prospect  it  can  easily  be  exceeded.  The  roads  are  judi- 
ciously laid  out,  and  intersect  each  other  in  the  most  con- 
venient manner.  The  ascents  are  gradual,  seldom  exceed- 
ing a  rise  of  seven  feet  in  a  hundred,  so  that  in  a  few 
minutes  .the  traveller  is  conveyed  by  a  good  road,  thirty 
feet  wide,  to  a  delightful  terrace  elevated  six  hundred  feet 
above  the  sea.  Hence  there  is  a  view  of  the  Ocean  (bound- 
ed by  the  horizon)  the  Coast,  the  Castle-hill,  the  Town, 
the  Harbour,  and  extensive  Piers.  To  the  westward,  the 
vale  of  Pickering,  and  a  vast  extent  of  country  in  all  it's 
charming  diversity  of  landscape,  exhibit  scenes  of  a  very 
picturesque  nature.  As  a  ride,  it  possesses  every  thing 
desirable  ;  and  the  coolness  and  freshness  of  the  air,  at 
Buch  an  elevation,  give  a  sense  of  lightness  and  comfort 
not  easily  described.  From  this  eminence,  Falsgrave,  one 
mile  west  from  Scarborough,  is  prominently  conspicuous." 


SCARBOROUGH.  65 

Passing  the  water-fall,  the  stranger  is  conducted,  by  a. 
path  leading  along  "  rural  hedge-rows,"  to  the  "  well- 
protected  lanes"  which  terminate  at  the  last-named  village, 
whence  a  gravelled  walk  is  continued  on  the  side  of  the 
York  road  to  Scarborough.  Or,  a  return  over  the  fields  will 
present  several  romantic  views  of  the  town,  from  the  hills 
enclosing  the  valley  on  which  the  foot-path  is  formed ;  and 
to  this  succeeds  another,  called  Barrow-cliff- Plantation,  the 
property  of  John  Woodall,  Esq.  the  walk  to  which  may  be 
pleasantly  taken  over  the  fields  from  Tanner-Street.  The 
situation  is  most  inviting,  and  finely  adapted  for  the  purpose. 
One  side  of  the  Cliff  is  planted  with  various  ornamental  trees 
and  shrubs  suited  to  it's  soil,  amongst  which  happily  occur 
several  of  ancient  growth,  which  afford  an  agreeable  and 
tasteful  contrast,  and  through  the  valley  runs  a  brook,  which 
forms  a  fine  natural  embellishment  to  the  scene.  The  walks 
are  numerous  and  pleasingly  varied  by  many  ornamental  de- 
vices ;  and  fully  worthy  of  a  visit  is 

"  this  hill 
And  all  it's  walks  of  tributary  trees. — 
When  gathered  in  one  scene,  they  ask  the  skill 
Of  Poussin's  beauty-breathing  hand  to  fill 
The  fancy  of  a  stranger." 

The  proprietor  of  this  last-mentioned  Plantation  has 
lateiy  designed  a  walk,  which  is  proposed  to  be  made  up 
the  Cliff,  near  the  Waterfall  at  the  foot  of  the  Terrace,  and 
proceed  over  the  fields  to  the  Spaw,  which  has  been  want- 
ed ever  since  the  discovery  of  these  celebrated  mineral  wa- 

F 


66  SCARBOROUGH. 

ters,  as,  when  the  tide  is  up,  the  progress  of  the  drinkers 
of  these  salubrious  springs  is  intercepted. 

WALK  ON  THE  CLIFF-TERRACE. 

This  is  one  of  the  finest  natural  places  of  promenade  in 
the  kingdom,  if  we  take  into  consideration  it's  extent,  it's 
elevation,  and  the  grand  and  varied  prospects  it  affords. 

"  Throned  on  thy  cliffs,  how  proudly  thou 

Survey^st  the  varied  scene  below  ! 

In  curve  exact  thy  mansions  bending, 

And  to  the  watery  marge  descending  i 

Upon  that  marge,  in  modest  state, 

Hygeia  throwing  wide  her  gate 

(A  better  Cytherea  she, 

Risen  newly  from  the  ambient  sea) 

To  indigent  infirmity ; 

Thy  temple,  castle,  double  mote, 

Port,  Spaw ;  and  circling  round  the  whole, 

Of  beauty  and  of  strength  the  zone. 

The  ocean's  azure  girdle  thrown !" 

Or,  to  use  the  words  of  an  ancient  Poet, 

**  For  to  behold,  it  was  ane  glore  to  se 
The  stablit  windig,  and  the  calmyt  see, 
The  soft  seasoun,  the  firmament  serreue, 
The  loune  illumined  air,  and  firth  amene; 
K  iritis,  castelis,  and  ilke  fair  cityes, 
Stude  paynit,  every  fane,  tower  and  stage, 
Upon  the  plain  ground,  by  thare  own  umbrage  !" 

OAWIN  DOUGLAS. 


SCARBOROUGH.  G7 

This  terrace  is  a  most  fascinating  place  during  the  height 
of  our  season,  when  filled  with  company  :  "  it  is  not  possi- 
ble to  draw  for  the  eye  a  more  agreeable  picture.*'  It  has 
been  expressed  that  this  spot  would  prove  a  suitable  situa- 
tion for  a  Saloon,  but  it  forms  of  itself  the  most  delightful 
natural  Saloon  that  could  be  conceived,  whose  canopy  is 
the  blue  expanse,  and  it's  confines  the  waters  of  the  vast 
deep.  Still  a  Saloon,  Pump-room,  or  some  building  of 
that  description,  is  yet  a  desideratum  at  Scarborough  ;  and 
an  appropriate  spot  has  been  pointed  out  at  the  head  of  the 
water-fall,  at  the  foot  of  the  Cliff,  which  would  command 
a  view  of  the  Ocean,  Castle-Promontory,  and  it's  venera- 
ble ruins  :  we  wish  it  carried  into  effect. 

On  pacing  over  this  Cliff  one  is  naturally  led  to  reflect 
on  objects  which  formerly  occupied  the  situation.  Here 
stood  the  Church  of  St.  Nicholas,  which  was,  according  to 
the  historian  of  Scarborough,  erected  so  early  as  the  reign 
of  Henry  II.  "  There  are  not  any  vestiges  of  it  to  be  dis- 
covered, as  the  land  has,  in  the  course  of  ages,  considerably 
wasted  away  *.  In  the  year  1786,  the  entire  skeleton  of  a 
human  body  of  large  stature  was  found  in  the  Cliff ;  the 
teeth  were  regular,  and  in  great  preservation,  which  is 
something  remarkable,  as  it  might  probably  have  lain  there 
ever  since  the  dissolution  of  religious  houses  in  the  year  1539. 

•  It  is  remarkable  that  an  elevation  of  it  should  not  have  been 
given  in  the  ancient  view  of  Scarborough,  made  in  the  reign  of 
Richard  III.  as  there  appears  to  have  been  some  remains  of  it, 
when  Gent  published  his  View  of  the  town,  about  1734. 


08  SCARBOROUGH. 

A  tombstone  was  also  found  here,  without  any  inscription, 
though  there  was  a  cross,  &c.  cut  upon  it,  in  the  rudest 
sculpture.  Several  human  bones  in  a  regular  position  were 
also  discovered  in  1791 ;  and,  in  1810,  a  copper-plate  ap- 
pertaining to  a  tomb-stone.  The  Hospital,  dedicated  to 
St.  Nicholas,  was  contiguous  to  this  Church." 

Much  praise  is  certainly  due  to  the  corporation  for  their 
late  spirited  improvements  here :  each  succeeding  year 
adds  something  to  the  gracefulness  of  the  Cliff;  during  the 
last  spring  the  plantation  of  another  portion  of  it  has  been 
effected,  and  it's  base  protected  by  raised  stone-work, 
which,  in  conjunction  with  Mr.  Henderson's  similar  spirit 
of  improvement,  will  form  an  agreeable  promenade  when 
the  tide  is  up. 
• 
At  a  short  distance  from  the  Cliff-benches, 

THE  SHOP  OF  MR.  CRACKNELL 

presents  itself,  filled  with  marine  productions,  viz.  shells  of 
every  degree  of  brilliance  and  beauty  of  pencilling,  the 
pebbles  of  the  coast,  besides  others  of  foreign  production  ; 
and  among  the  works  of  art  must  be  mentioned  his  valua- 
ble assemblage  of  coins  and  medals,  carvings,  Oriental 
china,  as  well  as  the  ingeniously  devised  articles,  in  the 
same  line,  of  our  own  manufacture,  with  a  great  variety  of 
other  curiosities :  the  interior  affords  a  view  of  the  ocean, 
and  is  delightfully  situated  for  the  display  of  these  works  of 
virtu. 


SCARBOROUGH.  69 

A  WALK  TO  MR.  CRAWFORD'S  SHOP  ON 

THE  CLIFF. 

- 
The  contents  of  Mr.  Crawford's  shop-window  form  a 

Museum.  The  great  variety  and  exquisite  beauty  of  the 
shells  here  exhibited  is  "passing  wonderful!"  and  if  a 
jeu-de-mots  may  be  allowed,  to  stand  and  minutely  inspect 
them  will  raise  your  feelings  to  the  highest  pitch  of  admira- 
tion, and  prompt  you  to  exclaim  with  the  poet, 

Who  can  paint  like  nature? 

Can  Imagination  boast,  amid  her  gay  creation, 

Hues  like  these  ? 

Here  in  a  single  shell  appear,  at  least  in  colours,  "  beryl 
and  emerald,  amethyst  and  peai!,and  while  the  image  of 
the  sun  is  diffused  upon  them,  present  a  flood  of  indescriba- 
ble lustre." 

The  situation  of  the  shop  too  is  as  rural  as  can  be  con- 
ceived, which  certainly  harmonizes  with  the  articles  ex- 
hibited. It  is  rather  a  novel  situation  for  a  shop  to  be 
rurally  placed,  but  so  this  certainly  is ;  it  stands  at  the 
corner  of  a  pleasant  garden,  whence  a  view  of  the  majestic 
main  is  obtained,  and  is  shaded  by  aged  trees,  that  add  a 
verdure  and  life  to  the  scene,  which  no  words  can  describe. 
Near  too,  are  Mr.  Travis's  Baths,  which  characterise  the 
place,  and  assimilate  with  the  marine  productions' offered 
for  sale.  -  

A  shop  for  the  sale  of  Derbyshire  Spar  ornaments,  fossils, 


76  SCARBOROUGH. 

foreign  birds  of  beautiful  plumage,  &c.  has  just  been  opened 
in  Huntriss'-Row. 

Mr.  Browne,  in  Long-Room  Street,  polishes  agates  and 
fossils  with  his  powerful  machine  at  Scalby-Mill ;  he  also 
deals  largely  in  jet  ornaments.  Mr.  Carter's  shop  in  the 
same  street,  is  known  by  his  show-board,  with  the  word 
"  Curiosities"  in  large  characters  exhibited  thereon. 

The  shops  in  Newborough  have  also  a  display  of  rich 
goods  in  their  several  branches. 

Mr.  Smith,  the  celebrated  geologist,  has  often  pointed 
out  the  practicability  of  a  carriage-road  being  formed  at  the 
Castle-dykes,  by  which  means  a  communication  would  be 
effected  with  both  the  North  and  South  Sands,  and  a 
beautiful  drive  secured  from  the  Spaw  up  the  New  Road 
by  the  New  Church,  crossing  the  York  Road  and  running 
through  the  Bull-Lane,  past  the  Seaman's  Hospital  to  St. 
Mary's  Church,  which  would  embrace  one  of  the  most 
picturesque  views  in  the  county ;  then  descending  by  an 
easy  slope,  under  the  bridge  at  the  Castle  foot  to  the  North 
Sands,  and  return  by  Peasholme.  Although  a  carriage- 
road  might  be  formed  at  a  moderate  expence,  yet  a  bridle 
road  or  footpath  might  be  first  attempted,  for  the  North 
Sands  are  now  only  accessible  by  Peasholme.  The  majes- 
tic features  of  the  Castle-rocks  form  so  grand  an  object 
on  the  North  Beach,  that  it  is  really  surprising,  among 
the  many  beautiful  walks  in  this  neighbourhood,  one  has 
never  been  formed  here,  since  the  sliding-ground  alone 
would  make  an  excellent  terrace. 


SCARBOROUGH.  71 

A  WALK  FROM  SCARBOROUGH  TO  MR. 
PEARSON'S  SUBSCRIPTION  GARDENS, 
FALSGRAVE. 

The  first  object  from  Scarborough  which  strikes  the  eye 
after  passing  the  delightful  Terrace  of  Brunswick  and  Al- 
bion-Place, is  "  Belle- Vue  House,  the  residence  of  John 
Bell,  Esq. ;  aptly  so  named,  as  occupying  one  of  the  finest 
of  situations  for  mixed  and  beautiful  prospect."  Continu- 
ing our  walk  along  a  well-gravelled  and  safely-defended 
path  by  the  side  of  the  York  road,  we  shortly  reach  the 
village  of  Falsgrave,  which  is  about  one  mile  distant  from 
Scarborough.  "  It  is  certainly  of  great  antiquity,"  writes 
the  Historian  of  Scarborough,  "  and  previously  to  the  con- 
quest (1066)  was  part  of  the  demesne  of  Tosti,  Count 
of  Northumberland."  Proceeding  along  the  village  street, 
we  arrive  at  the  shop  of  the  Statuary,  described  in  an  ani- 
mated style  in  the  work,  entitled,  "  Prose  by  a  Poet,"  and 
shortly  after  reach  the  Subscription  Gardens  of  Mr.  Pear- 
son, which  are  at  the  extremity  of  the  village,  in  a  retired 
situation  :  the  house  retreats  from  the  village-street,  form- 
ing before  it  a  pleasing  green :  the  road  leading  to  it  is 
designated  by  the  School-House,  known  by  presenting  at 
jt's  top,  a  bell,  with  the  word  Falsgrave  underneath ;  and 
having  altogether  the  appearance  of  a  chapel.  At  the  end 
of  Mr.  Pearson's  house  is  a  genteel  stone-canopied  gate- 
way, conducting  into  these  gardens,  which  are  open  to  the 
public  at  a  subscription  of  two  shillings  and  sixpence  for 


72  SCARBOROUGH. 

the  summer  season,  which  entitles  one  person  to  walk  in 
them  any  hour  in  the  day  ;  and  fire  shillings  presents  the 
same  privilege  to  a  family.  Non -subscribers  pay  one 
shilling  each  time,  and  are  allowed  to  gather  and  eat  fruit. 
The  grounds  abound  with  strawberries,  choice  gooseberries, 
&c.  and  several  rustic  summer-houses  afford  pleasant 
situations  for  resting  to  eat  the  fruit,  or  in  which  to  drink 
tea,  presenting  at  the  same  time  an  attractive  view  of  Scar- 
borough Castle  and  the  North  Sands,  with  Belle-Vue 
House  in  the  nearer  prospect.  The  view  from  these  gardens 
of  that  bold  object  Oliver's  Mount,  is  very  interesting  :  and 
on  quitting  them,  just  before  entering  the  embowered  al- 
cove, a  most  delightful  view,  composed  of  hill,  valley,  and 
woodland  scenery,  presents  itself,  which  has  been  pro- 
nounced too  beautiful  and  complicated  for  the  artist  to  at- 
tempt faithfully  to  delineate. 

The  walk  beyond  the  village  of  Falsgrave  as  far  as  to 
Stepney-House,  is  delightful ;  the  footpath  is  considerably 
elevated  above  the  carriage-road,  and  is  very  firm.  Its 
boundary  consists  of  "  a  bank  of  earth,  (on  the  ridge  of 
which  grows  a  quickset-hedge,)  with  hundreds,  perhaps 
thousands,  of  the  sloughs  or  cores  of  the  horns  of  oxen 
thrust  into  the  face  of  it,  the  root-ends,  with  fragments  of 
the  scull-bones,  being  turned  outwards." 


. 


SCARBOROUGH.  17r 

THE  MERE  TEA-GARDENS,  HARWOOD  DALE, 
AND  FISHING  THERE. 

The  Mere  Tea  Gardens,  about  two  miles  from  Scar- 
borough, are  now  much  frequented  by  those  fond  of  rural 
excursions.  The  house  is  picturesquely  situated  on  a  con- 
siderable elevation,  at  the  side  of  the  Mere,  a  fine  piece 
of  water,  abounding  with  fish,  belonging  to  the  corporation, 
who,  on  application,  will  grant  leave  to  those  who  wish 
to  fish  there.  The  best  place  for  angling  is  said  to  be  down 
the  Derwent  from  Hurwood  Dale,  a  delightful  valley,  at  a 
short  distance  from  Hackness.  Harwood  Dale  itself  is 
highly  deserving  of  a  visit. 

THE  QUAKER'S  RETREAT. 

A  picturesque  situation,  called,  '  The  Quaker's  Retreat,' 
consisting  of  his  rural  cottage  and  a  rustic  summer-house  on 
the  edge  of  the  cliff,  overlooking  the  sea,  a  short  distance 
from  the  Spaw,  round  which  are  beds  of  fragrant  flowers, 
is  much  visited.  "  I  have  seen  him  in  a  morning  at 
labour  in  his  garden,"  remarks  an  observer,  who  has  kindly 
permitted  us  to  extract  from  his  MSS.  "  and  in  an  after- 
noon at  the  town  with  a  small  basket  of  flowers,  crying, 
'  Buy  my  Beauties  ;'  and  thus  on  a  bit  of  ground  that  one 
might  suppose  would  be  scarcely  sufficient  to  keep  a  mouse, 
he  contrives  to  make  a  living.  A  proof  of  what  care  and 
industry  can  effect." 

\ 


74 


SCARBOROUGH. 


A   WALK  TO   CARN ELIAN  BAY. 


"  At  last  Carnelian  Bay  they  tread, 
With  all  it's  myriad  treasures  spread; 
Gems  of  all  kinds— red,  white,  square,  round, 
A  new  Golconda  above  ground." 

Poet.  Sketches  of  Seurboro''. 


A  walk  to  Carnelian  Bay*  usually  gives  rise  to  much 
mirth  among  parties  clambering  over  rocky  cliffs  on  their 
progress  to  this  small  but  picturesque  spot :  nor  does  this 
portion  of  the  excursion  constitute  it's  chief  delight ;  as  the 
search  for  Carnelians  or  other  pebbles  occupies  and  amuses 
some  hours,  and  the  return  may  be  varied  by  proceeding 
along  the  Bridlington  road,  which  will  be  less  fatiguing 
than  over  the  sands.  Visitants,  indeed,  may  order  their 
carriages  to  be  in  waiting  there,  as  we  conceive  the  tour  of 
the  rocks  will  afford  sufficient  exercise  for  the  day.  Pai- 
ticular  enquiries  should  be  made  respecting  the  suitable 
time,  as  visitants  are  sometimes  intercepted  in  returning 
by  the  influx  of  the  tide, 

Cayton-Cliff  Mill  is  situated  on  the  margin  of  Car- 
nelian Bay.  Another  mode  of  proceeding  to  this  place  is 
by  engaging  a  pleasure-boat  for  the  voyage.  There  is  a 
regular  charge  by  the  hour,  or  for  the  voyage. 

»  The  following,  connected  with  this  place,  was  published  in 
1812,  "  The  Minstrel,  an  Elegy;  written  after  visiting  Carne- 
lian Bay." 


SCARBOROUGH. 


75 


Cloughton-VVyke,  about  five  miles  north  from  Scar- 
borough, presents  some  strikingly  grand  scenery  to  inland 
visitants ;  and  when  the  tide  suits,  there  is  good  fishing, 
either  from  the  boat  or  shore.  The  same  may  be  said  of 
llarbum-Wyke,  which  has  exercised  the  able  pencil  of  Mr. 
Francis  Nicholson. 

ENVIRONS  OF  SCARBOROUGH. 

Scarborough  is  the  centre  and  source  of  attraction  to  a 
great  variety  of  picturesque  and  majestic  scenes  both  of 
nature  and  art.  The  man  of  taste,  fixing  his  residence 
there  a  whole  season,  may  find  abundance  of  matter  to 
gratify  his  curiosity  throughout  that  period  by  visiting 
objects  contained  within  a  circle  of  25  miles  round  that  ro- 
mantic watering-place ;  and,  as  being  in  its  immediate 
vicinity,  we  will  commence  our  descriptions  with 

HACKNESS, 

which  "  is  a  romantic  village,  celebrated  for  the  beauty  of 
it's  scenery ;  and  is  therefore  visited  by  all  persons  of  taste 
and  fashion  who  resort  to  Scarborough,  from  which  it  is 
about  six  miles  distant.  The  road  conducting  to  it  may  be 
taken  through  the  villages  of  East  and  West  Ayton,  which 
are  pleasantly  situated  on  the  opposite  banks  of  the  river 
Derwent.  The  Derwent,  after  winding  in  a  confined  cur- 
rent through  the  valley  from  Hackness,  here  displays  a 
broader  stream.     On  the  slope  of  a  pleasant  field  to  the 


26  SCARBOROUGH. 

north  of  West  Aylon,  stands  the  ruin  of  an  ancient  build- 
ing, once  the  fortified  residence  of  the  family  of  the  Eures 
or  Evers,  who  possessed  large  demesnes  in  these  parts,  and 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Malton. 

"  The  village  of  East-Ayton  *  is  celebrated  for  its  charm- 
ing valley,  through  which,  is  a  delightful  ride  to  Hackness. 
The  lofty  hills  which  embosom  this  valley,  rise  almost  per- 
pendicularly, clothed  with  pendant  woods  of  various  foliage  ; 
and  the  river  Derwent,  overhung  with  branching  shrubs 
and  spiry  alders,  meanders  in  its  silvery  course  through  the 
vale.  About  a  mile  up  the  valley  the  road  winds  into 
Raincliff,  where  there  is  another  change  of  sylvan  scenery, 
which  covers  the  north-west  declivity  of  Seamer-moor.  A 
lane,  to  the  left,  leads  to  Hackness,  through  the  village  of 
Evertey  on  the  verdant  slope  of  the  opposite  hill.  This  is 
one  of  the  most  pleasant  rides  from  Scarborough  to  Hack- 
ness ;  and  the  scene  may  be  diversified  by  returning  along 
the  carriage-road  which  descends  the  hill  at  Hay-Brow. 
From  the  summit  of  this  hill  there  is  a  delightful  view  of 
the  Sea  and  Scarborough  Castle.  The  subjacent  country, 
with  the  picturesque  village  of  Scalby,  form  a  beautiful 
landscape." 

.  »  Five  miles  from  Scarborough,  and  four  thence  down  the  valley 
to  Hackness.  Those  who  would  like  to  walk  down  the  vale  might 
proceed  by  the  mail  from  Scarborough,  at  half-past  one,  P.M.  as 
far  as  Ayton,  and  reach  Hackness  to  dinner  :  they  will  find  a  good 
Inn  and  accomodations  at  the  Johnstone  Arms.  A  return  by 
Scalby  and  Newby  (the  distance  in  which  line  being  only  six 
miles)  will  give  a  pleasing  variation  to  the  excursion. 


SCARBOROUGH.  77 

"  Hackness  is  situated  in  a  pleasant  valley,  embosomed 
by  surrounding  hills,  adorned  with  trees  of  the  richest 
foliage.  The  hills  are  lofty,  and  finely  variegated,  differ- 
ing from  each  other  as  well  in  shape  as  in  ornament.  The 
prospects  at  Hackness  have  a  charming  variety  ;  the  hand 
of  nature  having  not  only  enriched  them  with  a  profusion 
of  sylvan  embellishments,  but  also  moulded  them  into  such 
different  forms  and  projections,  as  are  at  once  picturesque 
and  beautiful.  The  road  winds  irregularly  through  the 
valley,  presenting  at  every  turn  a  change  of  scenery,  and 
the  view  is  sometimes  improved  by  springs  of  water  burst- 
ing from  the  sides  of  the  hills  in  natural  cascades,  or  falling 
in  gentle  murmurs." 

"  To  this  delightful  solitude,  Lady  Hilda,  the  pious  and 
illustrious  foundress  of  Whitby  Abbey,  retreated  in  the 
evening  of  life,  to  pass  her  days,  in  sacred  retirement  and 
meditation.  The  site  of  the  monastic  cell,  built  by  Lady 
Hilda,  is  supposed  to  have  been  where  the  old  mansion- 
house  at  present  stands." 

The  Church  is  a  pleasing  rural  edifice,  embosomed  in 
verdant  foliage,  having,  on  a  low  tower,  aspire,  than  which 
no  other  kind  of  erection  could  be  more  happily  chosen  for 
it's  peculiar  situation,  as  it  forms,  when  viewed  through  the 
openings  of  the  woods,  a  most  interesting  object ;  particu- 
larly in  conjunction  with  the  mansion-house.  The  interior 
of  the  church  bears  evident  marks  of  antiquity,  and  has  been 
attached  to  the  monastery  of  Lady  Hilda.  "  The  ancient 
oak-stalls  of  the  monks,  in  the  choir,  still  remain,  nearly  in 


78  SCARBOROUGH. 

their  original  state."  It  is  the  receptacle  of  a  fine  piece  of 
statuary  by  Chantrey,  thus  inscribed :  "  With  the  purest  sen- 
timents of  conjugal  affection,  this  monument  is  erected  by 
an  afflicted  husband,  to  the  memory  of  Margaret  Anne 
Johnstone,  his  beloved  wife,  who  died  on  the  20th  day  of 
June  1819,  in  the  24th  year  of  her  age.  The  charms  of  her 
person  and  the  sweetness  of  her  manners  were  graced  by 
the  observance  of  every  christian  virtue.  She  was  the 
eldest  daughter  of  Sir  R.  V.  B.  Johnstone,  of  Hackness,  in 
the  county  of  York,  Bart,  by  Dame  Margaret,  his  wife  : 
and  was  married  on  the  28th  day  of  October,  1815,  to 
George  Johnstone,  Esq.  To  them  were  born  two  daugh- 
ters ;  the  eldest  providence  was  pleased  to  recal,  the 
youngest  remains  to  solace  her  father  in  his  afflictions." 
There  are  a  few  other  inscriptions  to  the  memory  of  the 
Hobbys,  who  formerly  possessed  the  manor.  The  canopy 
over  the  font,  and  a  pair  of  curiously  embellished  candle- 
sticks at  the  altar,  are  worthy  of  inspection.  In  the  church 
library  are  several  valuable  ecclesiastical  works,  and  we 
think  a  "  Bibliotheca  Parochialis  de  Hackness  "  would  not 
prove  uninteresting. 

On  entering  Hackness  from  Scalby,  an  elegant  arched 
entrance  bespeaks  the  approach  to  the  village,  the  view 
through  which,  as  it  gradually  unfolds  itself,  backed  by 
that  uncommonly  bold,  fine  hill  near  the  Church,  crowned 
with  wood  of  varied  foliage,  when  tinged  with  the  soft  glow 
of  an  evening's  sun,  produces  an  effect  beyond  description 
luxurious. 


SCARBOROUGH.  79 

The  gateway  itself  is  an  appropriate  and  pleasing  de- 
sign, and  is  covered  with  a  great  variety  of  ornamental 
shrubs,  which  are  pendent  over  it's  sides,  and  would  form 
a  most  interesting  subject  for  the  artist. 

On  the  right  of  this  gateway  appears  the  elegant  Man- 
sion-house *  of  the  proprietor  of  the  lordship,  Sir  John 
Vanden  Bempde  Johnstone,  Bart,  which  was  erected  by 
Sir  Richard  Johnstone,  the  father  of  the  present  owner. 

Some  very  striking  improvements  have  been  made  in  the 
grounds  contiguous  to  the  mansion  since  last  summer,  in 
the  enlargement  of  the  sheet  of  water  in  front  of  the  house, 
the  conducting  of  a  rivulet  round  the  woods  which  environ 
the  park,  the  embellishment  of  the  sides  of  the  carriage-road, 
by  plantations,  the  erection  of  a  New  Lodge,  and  other  ef- 
fective alterations.  A  few  more  such  changes  will  contri- 
bute toward  rendering  Hackness,  Fairy  Land,  and  this 
sweet  vale,  a  place  of  enchantment.  Mason  has  celebrated 
it  in  his  drama,  Argentile  and  Curan : 

Sewold. — And  where  shall  I  await  thee  ? 
Curan.— My  best  Sewold, 

Thou  knowest  when  we  did  quit  our  anchor'd  barks, 

We  crossed  a  pleasant  valley,  rather  say 

A  nest  of  sister  rales,  o'erhung  with  hills 

Of  varied  form  and  foliage ;  ev'ry  vale 

Had  it's  own  proper  brook,  the  which  it  hugg'd 

In  it's  green  breast,  as  if  it  fear'd  to  lose 

»  Mr.  Wilson,  of  Scarborough,  has  published  a  view  of  the 
House  and  Church. 


80  SCARBOROUGH. 

The  treasur'd  crystal.     You  might  mark  the  course 
Of  this  cool  rill  more  by  the  ear  than  eye, 
For  tho'  they  oft  would  to  the  gun  unfold 
Their  silver  as  they  passed,  'twas  quickly  lost ; 
And  ever  did  they  murmur.    On  the  verge 
Of  one  of  these  clear  streams  there  stood  a  cell 
.  G'ergrown  with  moss  and  ivy ;  near  to  which, 
On  a  fall'n  trunk  that  bridg'd  the  little  brook, 
A  hermit  sat.     Of  him  we  ask'd  the  name 
Of  that  sweet  valley,  and  he  call'd  it  Hakenrss. 

"  The  high  ground  between  Scarborough  and  Ayton, 
called  Seamer-moor,  and  the  moora  which  extend  westward 
to  Lockton  and  Saltergate,  present  many  interesting  ob- 
jects to  the  eye  of  the  antiquarian ;  particularly  camps, 
trenches,  houses,  upright  stones,  and  foundations  of  ancient 
British  dwellings.  These  hills  are  also  interesting  to  the 
naturalist,  from  their  peculiar  form  ;  being  all  flat  on  the 
top,  with  steep  but  smooth  declivities  on  their  northern 
fronts,  descending  at  the  same  angle.  Some  of  these  hills 
are  stretched  out  in  oblong  ridges,  which  when  their  ends 
are  presented  to  the  spectator,  have  the  appearance  of 
haystacks.  This  is  particularly  the  case  with  Langdale 
End,  and  Blakey  Topping  ;  to  which  we  may  add  Oliver's 
Mount,  near  Scarborough*." 

HUNMANBY, 

About  the  midway  between  Scarborough  and  Bridlington, 
is  well  built  and  pleasantly  situated,  being  surrounded  by 

*  Young's  Picture  of  Whitby. 


SCARBOROUGH.  81 

6,00G  acres  of  fertile  land,  and  adorned  by  a  considerable 
quantity  of  ornamental  wood,  chiefly  growing  on  an  ele- 
vated site,  called  the  Castle-hill,  where  are  still  to  be 
traced  the  foundations  of  an  ancient  fortress.  From  this 
place  the  ground  slopes,  with  a  regular  and  almost  imper- 
ceptible descent,  toward  the  beautiful  and  picturesque  Bay 
of  Filey. 

In  the  Parish-church  is  a  sumptuous  monument,  com- 
memorating those  of  the  Osbaldeston  family,  who  died  in 
the  eighteenth  century.  Over  the  central  arches  of  the 
church  are  emblazoned,  in  eleven  distinct  shields,  the  armo- 
rial bearings  subscribed  with  the  names  of  the  ancient  lords 
of  the  place.  The  vicarage -house,  which  stands  near 
the  church,  of  both  which  we  give  a  representation,  has 
been  greatly  improved  and  embellished  by  the  present  in- 
cumbent, the  Rev.  Archdeacon  Wrangham,  M.A.  F.R.S. 
The  interior  contains  a  valuable  collection  of  books  in  dif- 
ferent languages ;  the  Proprietor  being  a  member  of  the 
RoxbuTghe  Club.  A  Private  Catalogue  of  the  Library  is 
now  printing  under  his  own  inspection,  rich  in  notes,  ob- 
servations, and  extracts,  from  which  the  publisher  of  this 
work  has  been  permitted  to  draw  up  a  brochure  of  the 
most  curious  books  in  the  folio  and  quarto  English  classes. 
The  most  valuable  work  is  an  unique  copy  of  an  edition  of 
the  Romance  of  Arthur,  printed  by  Wynkyn  de  Worde, 
"  in  Flete-Strete,  at  ye  sygne  of  sonne.  In  the  yere  of  our 
lord  god,  M.CCCCCxxir.  the  xviii  daye  of  November." 
The  following  have  been  acquired  since  the  "  Bibliogra- 


82  SCARBOROUGH. 

phical    and  Descriptive    Tour  from    Scarborough   to    the 
Library  of  a  Philobiblist,"  was  published  :■ — 

Folio. — Brydges'  (Sir  Egerton)  Atavia  Regue.    Consisting  of 
sixty  copies  only,  printed  for  private  use. 
Florence,  1820. 
Quarto. — Schooten's  Account  of  his  Discovery  of  the  Straits 
ofLeMaire.  A  Latin  Tract.  Cuts.   Very  rare. 
The  Hon.  Miss  Grimston's  History  of  Goiham- 
bury,  with  Engravings.     Unpublished.     The 
whole,  both  text  and  illustrations,  in  litho- 
graph. 
Sisson's  Parish  Church,  Wakefield,  L  p.    Proof 

plates  on  India  paper  ... Wakefield,  1 824. 

Octavo. — Barbier's    Famous    Game    of   Chesse-play,     by 

Saul.     Cuts.   1640 

Brydges'      Polyanthea      Librorum       Vetustiorum. 

Genev,  1822. 

■  Cimelia ......<         Ibid. 

— — Valerianus  De  Literatorum  Infelicitate. 

Genev.  1822. 

N.B.  Of  each  of  these  three  volumes  only  75  copieswere 
thrown  off. 

Catalogue  (with  names  and  prices)  of  Sir  M.  M. 

Sykes'  Library,  in  three  parts. 
Cole's  Bibliographical,  &c.  Tour.     Coloured  paper, 

illustrated    Searbro',  1824. 

Only  two  copies  so  coloured. 


SCARBOROUGH.  83 

Conybeare's  Octavian,  Emperor  of  Rome,  abridged 
from    a    MS.     in    the    Bodleian    Library. 
Oxford,  1809 
"  Printed  only  for  private  distribution." 

Cruden  (Alex.)  on  the  Superlapsarian  Scheme 

1736 

Grace,  .Memoirs  of  the  family  of,  &c.  &c.  Unpub- 
lished, pt 1823 

Hey,  (the  late  Dr.  John)  on  the  Writings  of  St. 
Paul.     Unpublished Buckingham,  1811 

Home's  (T.  H.)  Memoir  of  Bp.  Beveridge.  Only 
S'ucopies  so  printed 1824 

Irby's  and  Mangles'  Travels  in  Egypt,  &c.    Map, 

pi 1823 

"  Printed  only  for  private  distribution." 

Madden  on  the  Encouragement  of  Learning  in 
Dublin  College,  &c. Dublin,  1732, 1733 

Pope's  Temple  of  Fame,  and  Messiah,  in  Latin 
Verse,  by  Gahagan 1748 

"  Done  sfoice  his  confinement  in  one  of  the  cells  in 
Nettgfcte." 

N.  B.  This  unfortunate  Scholar,  who  had  previously 
translated  the  Essay  on  Criticism,  anil  edited 
Brindley's  Classics,  was  hanged  for  filing  gold 
money  !  Vide  MS.  note. 

Lord  Grenville'sNugas  Metrics,  4to.  Oxford,  1824. 
"  Printed  for  private  distribution." 


84 


SCARBOROUGH. 


Les  neuf  Preux,  nouvellement  imprime  a  Paris, 
6. 1,  folio,  with  a  singular  initial  L  and  Colo- 
phon •  Mich,  le  i\oir'    1507 


SCARBOROUGH.  85 

FILEY, 

a  small  fishing  town,  eight  miles  south  from  Scarborough, 
is  much  visited  by  the  frequenters  of  that  ancient  watering- 
place,  and  is  upon  the  banks  of  a  spacious  bay,  which, 
with  the  assistance  of  art,  would  make  an  excellent  har- 
bour. The  shore  is  circular,  and  the  sands  are  beautifully 
smooth,  firm,  and  extensive.  The  Cliffs,  to  the  eastward, 
are  lofty,  and  curiously  indented,  resembling  the  spires  of  a 
Cathedral ;  but,  to  the  westward,  they  decline  considerably 
from  their  elevation,  until  they  join  those  at  Speeton.  Filey 
is  singularly  situated  in  the  North  and  East-Ridings  of 
Yorkshire ;  the  church  being  in  the  former,  and  the  town 
in  the  latter.  The  beach  is  convenient  for  sea-bathing,  and 
there  is  a  spring  of  mineral  water,  a  mile  to  the  north  of 
the  church,  which  contains  a  little  iron,  sea  salt  in  con- 
siderable quantity,  Epsom  salt,  and  calcareous  earth. 

"  At  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  sands,  an  extraordinary 
ridge  or  natural  mole  of  rocks,  called  Filey-Bridge,  projects 
nearly  half  a  mile  into  the  sea,  and  is  a  great  protection  to 
the  bay  in  tempestuous  weather.  At  high-water,  the  rocks 
are  overflowed  ;  but  when  the  tide  is  low,  there  is  a 
passage  along  them  to  the  outer  extremity,  whence  is  a 
fine  view  of  Flamborough-Head  and  Scarborough  Castle. 
In  stormy  weather,  the  sea  breaks  with  great  violence 
against  these  rocks,  and  the  breach  of  the  foaming  waves  is 
frequently  seen  from  Scarborough.  The  fishery  at  Filey  is 
prosecuted  with  great  spirit  and  success." 


S(  ARBOHOUC.ir. 


FLAMBOROUGH  CLIFFS. 


The  Cliffs  of  Flamborough,  about  twenty  mile6  distant 
from  Scarborough,  are  well  worth  inspecting :  "  they  are 
of  amazing  grandeur  and  a  tremendous  height,  from  one 
hundred  to  a  hundred  and  fifty  yards  perpendicular.  They 
are  composed  of  a  mouldering  limestone  rock,  of  a  snowy 
whiteness,  covered  and  adorned  with  an  astonishing  num- 
ber of  birds,  remarkable  for  the  variety  and  brilliancy 
of  their  plumage.  From  the  latter  end  of  April  to  the 
beginning  of  August,  myriads  resort  thither,  to  build  their 
pensile  nests,  and  trust  their  eggs  and  tender  offspring  to 
the  exposed  and  dangerous  security  of  broken  rocks,  and 
projecting  ledges. 

"  At  the  foot  of  the  Cliffs,  are  some  extensive  Caverns, 
formed  either  by  the  restless  turbulence  of  the  ocean,  gra- 
dually and  imperceptibly  excavating  the  solid  rock,  or  by 
some  unknown  cause  of  distant  origin.  There  are  three, 
which  exceed  the  others  in  extent  and  curiosity.  The 
principal  is  Robin  Lyth's  Hole,  which  surpasses  the  rest 
in  extent  of  dimensions.  It  has  two  openings,  one  commu- 
nicating with  the  land,  the  other  with  the  sea.  The  for- 
mer is  low  and  narrow,  giving  solemn  admission  into  the 
cavern,  which,  at  the  first  entrance,  is  surrounded  with  a 
tenebriose  gloom  ;  but  the  darkness  gradually  dispersing, 
the  magnificence  becomes  unfolded,  and  excites  the  admi- 
ration of  the  exploring  stranger.    The  floor  is  a  solid  rock, 


SCARBOROUGH.  87 

formed  into  broad  steps  of  an  easy  descent,  and  the  stones, 
at  the  sides,  are  curiously  variegated.  The  roof  is  finely 
arched,  and  nearly  fifty  feet  high  at  the  centre.  The  many 
projecting  ledges  and  fragments  of  suspended  rocks,  joined 
to  the  great  elevation,  give  it  an  awful,  and,  at  the 
same  time,  a  majestic  appearance ;  and  when  looking  up- 
wards to  survey  the  lofty  arch,  and  reflect  upon  the 
superincumbent  mass  sustained  by  it,  there  is  a  difficulty  in 
suppressing  those  ideas  of  danger  which  intrude  upon  such 
an  occasion." 

Near  Flamborough  is  situated  the  celebrated  Light- 
House,  which,  from  it's  elevated  situation,  may  be  seen  at 
a  great  distance.  The  interior  may  be  viewed  on  appli- 
cation. 

From  Flamborough,  an  excursion  to  the  church  of  Brid- 
lington should  be  made,  which  presents  interesting  speci- 
mens of  the  architecture  of  various  periods ;  for  a  minute 
description  of  which,  and  several  antiquities  connected 
with  this  edifice,  we  refer  our  readers  to  Mr.  Thompson's 
valuable  Historical  Sketches  of  Bridlington. 

In  the  church-yard  at  Rudston,  a  village  five  miles  west 
from  Bridlington,  "  is  an  obelisk*  highly  worthy  the  atten- 
tion of  the  antiquary."  It  consists  of  one  entire  and  im-, 
mensely  large  stone,  of  itself  a  curiosity ;  the  erection  of 
which  has  been  ascribed  to  the  Druids,  the  Romans,  &c. ; 

*  A  lithographic  view  of  this  obelisk  has  been  lately  published 
by  J.  Cole. 


88  SCARBOROUGH. 

and  as  no  description  can  present  an  adequate  idea  of  its 
magnitude  and  effects,  combined  with  the  adjacent  scenery, 
we  earnestly  recommend  a  visit  to  the  original,  which  is  a 
venerable  object  of  antiquity. 

«»  ROBIN  HOOD'S  BAY 

is  a  small  fishing  town,  thirteen  miles  north  from  Scar- 
borough*, and  is  frequently  visited  by  strangers,  on  account 
of  the  alum-works  in  its  vicinity.  The  road  to  it  is  stony 
and  uneven,  over  a  dreary  barren  moor,  and  the  hill  at 
Stoupe-brow  t  is  impracticable  for  a  carriage.  On  descend- 
ing this  hill,  from  the  moor  to  the  sands  at  Robin  Hood's 
Bay,  the  road  passes  the  alum-works,  where  the  curiosity 
of  the  traveller  is  gratified  with  a  view  of  those  immense 
mountains  of  alum-stone  from  which  the  salt  is  extracted  ; 
and  the  interior  works  are  worthy  of  observation. 

' '  The  road  from  the  alum- works  to  the  village  of  Robin 
Hood's  Bay,  is  along  the  sandy  beach,  close  under  a  high, 
steep  cliff,  to  which  the  sea  flows  as  the  tide  advances, 
and  the  passage  is  unsafe,  except  there  be  a  spacious  area 
of  the  sand  uncovered  by  the  water,  or  the  tide  be  reced- 
ing. 

*  Between  Scarborough  and  Robin  Hood's  Bay  are  only  two 
villages;  Burniston  four  miles,  and  Cloughton  five  miles  from 
Scarborough.  There  is  nothing  worthy  of  note  at  these  places, 
except  a  quarry  of  freestone  at  the  latter,  from  whence  the  Ca»tle 
of  Scarborough  is  said  to  have  been  built, 

t  About  two  miles  from  Eobin  Hood's  Bay. 


SCARBOROUGH.  89 

"  The  Sea-coast  northward  from  Scarborough  is  craggy, 
wild,  and  terrific,  bending  inward  as  far  as  the  River  Tees, 
and  by  its  winding,  forming  this  bay,  nearly  a  mile  in 
breadth.  The  sands  here,  are  firm  and  level ;  but  the 
shore,  at  a  little  distance  from  the  Cliff,  is  rocky  ;  and  there 
is  only  a  narrow  passage  from  the  sea,  where  the  fishing 
boats  can  land  in  safety. 

"  The  village  consists  of  the  habitations  of  fishermen, 
and  once  made  a  grotesque  appearance,  the  houses  being 
strangely  scattered  over  the  face  of  a  steep  cliff,  and  some 
of  them  hanging  in  an  awful  manner  on  the  projecting 
ledges  of  the  precipice  ;  but  this  place  has  lately  sustained 
a  great  alteration  by  the  falling  of  the  cliff ;  in  consequence 
of  which,  the  projecting  houses  and  the  pavement  of  the 
principal  street  as  far  as  the  fronts  of  the  houses  on  the 
opposite  side,  are  ruined,  and  a  new  road  has  been  made 
from  the  landing-place  through  the  interior  part  of  the  town. 
The  village  derives  its  name  from  that  famous  outlaw, 
Robin  Hood." 

At  about  the  distance  of  seven  miles  from  this  fishing- 
place  is  situated  the  town  of 


WHITBY ; 

the  most  interesting  objects  in  which  place  are  the 
venerable  ruins  of  its  Abbey,  and  the  Museum  of  "  the 
Literary  and  Philosophical  Society,"  which  is  open  from 
eleven  to  one  o'clock  on  Tuesday  and  Thursday  in  every 


DO  SCARBOROUGH. 

week.  "  The  moat  interesting  article  lately  purchased 
is  the  Fossil  Crocodile,  discovered  in  the  Cliff,  near  Salt- 
wick.  The  existence  of  the  crocodile  among  the  large 
animals  imbedded  in  the  alum-shale,  had  not  hitherto  been 
satisfactorily  ascertained :  but  this  specimen  establishes 
the  fact  beyond  all  doubt." 

The  Rev.  G.  Young,  of  Whitby,  has  published  a  valua- 
ble "  Picture  of  Whitby  and  its  Environs." 

The  pier  at  this  place  is  worthy  of  examination,  being  a 
massive  one  of  wrought  stone. 

A  delightful  ride  by  the  sea-side,  of  three  miles  in  extent, 
may  be  taken  from  Whitby  to  Lyth,  by  Sandsend  ;  but  it 
should  never  be  undertaken  by  strangers  without  full  infor- 
mation from  persons  residing  upon  the  spot,  of  the  practi- 
cability of  completing  it  in  easy  time.  The  author  of 
"  the  Perambulator's  Guide  to  the  Scarborough  Sands" 
was  once  crossing  this  place  in  the  company  of  a  gentleman 
of  London,  who,  unconscious  of  the  difference  between 
driving  on  wet  or  loose  sand  and  on  hard  road,  very  soon 
knocked  up  a  fine  horse  and  brought  him  to  a  stand  still, 
before  he  had  got  half  way  over  it. 


PICKERING, 

which  is  eighteen  miles  westward  from  Scarborough,  lies 
in  the  road  to  Kirkby  Moor-side  and  Duncombe  Park,  and 
was  formerly  the  chief  town  of  the  district,  and  once  sent 


.SCARBOROUGH.  91 

two  members  to  parliament.  The  situation  is  upon  a 
pleasant  eminence.  The  castle  at  present  is  in  a  very 
ruinous  state  ;  but  not  many  years  since,  some  of  the  towers 
had  wooden  floors  entire,  and  doors  to  the  dungeons.  The 
castle-hill  commands  a  charming  view  of  the  vale  of  Pick- 
ering, which  is  celebrated  for  its  fertility.  The  following 
ancient  description  of  the  country  from  Scarborough  to 
Pickering,  from  Leland's  Itinerary,  may  prove  useful. 

"  From  Scardeburgh  to  Aiton  three  miles,  where  coming 
over  Derwent,  I  saw  a  Manor-place  *  sometime  belonging 
to  a  knight  called  Aiton  ;  but  now  to  the  best  of  the  Yevers 
(Evers).  At  this  manor-place  is  a  tower  or  pile.  Thence 
to  Brunston  (Brompton)  three  or  four  miles,  and  three 
miles  more  to  Wileton,  where  is  a  manor-place  with  a 
tower  belonging  to  Cholmeley.  Cholmeley  hath  a  house 
at  Rollesby.  Thence  to  Pykering  ;  and  most  of  the  ground 
from  Scardeburgh  to  Pykering  was  by  bill  and  dale  plenti- 
ful of  corn  and  grass." 


K1RKBY  MOORSIDE, 

is  a  market  town  situated  near  the  River  Rye.  It  was 
originally  called  Kirkby,  and  received  the  additional  epithet 
Moorside,  from  its  situation  on  the  side  of  Blackmoor.  It  is 
distant  from  Scarborough  about  twenty-six  miles.     Kirkby 

*  A  View  is  given  in  «• the  Portfolio"  published  by  Sherwood 
and  Co. 


!)2  SCARBOROUGH. 

Moorside  and  Helmsley  (including  Duncombe  Park)  were 
part  of  the  extensive  possessions  of  Villiers,  Duke  of  Buck- 
ingham, who  was  killed  by  Felton. 

The  manner  of  the  death  of  the  succeeding  Duke,  who, 
"  by  an  unbounded  extravagance  and  dissipation  wasted 
the  immense  inheritance  of  his  family,  and  died  in  extreme 
want  and  misery  April  15th,  1687,"  is  well  known  from  the 
muse  of  Pope ;  which  has  given  celebrity  to  his  dying 
scenes,  and  depicted  his  condition  and  that  of  his  dwelling, 
in  the  following  energetic  lines : 

«'  In  the  worst  inn's  worst  room,  with  mat  balf-bung, 
The  floors  of  plaster,  and  the  walls  of  dung, 
On  once  a  flock-bed,  but  repalr'd  with  straw, 
With  tape-ty'd  curtains  never  meant  to  draw, 
The  George  and  Garter  dangling  from  that  bed, 
Where  tawdry  yellow  strove  with  dirty  red, 
Great  Villiers  lies, —  alas  !  how  changed  from  him, 
That  life  of  pleasure,  and  that  soul  of  whim  ! 
Gallant  and  gay  in  Clifdeu's  proud  alcove, 
The  bower  of  wanton  Shrewsbury  and  love  ; 
Or  just  as  gay  at  council,  in  a  ring 
Of  mimic  statesmen,  and  their  merry  King. 
No  wit  to  flatter  left  of  all  his  store. 
No  fool  to  laugh  at,  which  he  valued  more. 
There,  victor  of  his  health,  of  fortune,  friends, 
And  fame,  this  lord  of  useless  thousands  ends." 
.      .. 

The  following  is  a  copy  of  the  register  : 

"  Burials. 
1687.  April  17th.  Gorges  vilaus  Lord  dooke  of  bookingham." 


SCARBOROUGH.  93 

The  copy  of  a  letter  from  the  Earl  of  Arran,  afterward 
Duke  of  Hamilton,  to  a  friend,  appeared  in  the  Whitehall 
paper  in  1784,  saying  "  that  the  Earl  passing  through 
Kirkby  Moorside,  attended  (accidentally)  the  Duke's  last 
moments  ; — that  he  died  April  1.5th,  1687,  (aged  60)  and 
having  no  person  to  direct  his  funeral,  and  the  Earl  being 

obliged  to  pursue  his  journey,  he  engaged Gibson 

Esq.,  (a  gentleman  of  fortune  at  Welburne,  near  Kirkby 
Moorside)  to  see  him  decently  interred." 

The  house  *  in  which  this  unfortunate  nobleman  expired 
is  situated  in  the  Market-place  ;  being  at  present  occupied 
by  Mr.  Cole.  During  the  summer-season  it  is  much  visited 
by  the  curious. 

"  There  is  no  tradition  here  of  the  house  in  which  the  Duke 
of  Buckingham  died  ever  having  been  an  Inn,  and  from  it's 
present  appearance  it  must  at  that  time  have  been,  except- 
ing one,  the  best  house  in  the  town.  It  is  built  in  the 
ancient  style,  with  projecting  wings.  The  length  of  the 
front  is  16  yards :  and  whatever  improvements  may  have 
been  made  in  the  house  since  that  time,  the  shell  of  it 
remains  as  it  was.  The  room  in  which  the  Duke  died  is 
on  the  second  floor  in  front  of  the  house,  and  is  the  best 
lodging  room  in  it.  The  boards  are  fir,  which  were  there 
at  the  time  of  his  decease.  Many  years  after  his  death  a 
seal  was  found  in  a  crevice,  in  the  room  in  which  he  ex- 
pired, having  the  Buckingham  arms  on  it,  which  is  supposed 

•  A  view  of  this  building  has  lately  made  it's  appearance  in 
Svo.    Published  by  J.  Cole,  Scarborough. 


94  SCARBOROUGH. 

to  have  been  his ;  and  is  now  in  the  posssssion  of  Mr. 
William  Cole." 

The  following  pathetic  letter,  written  by  the  Duke  in  his 
last  illness,  shows  that  he  sincerely  repented  of  the  actions 
of  his  past  life. 

"  From  the  Younger  Villiers,  Duke  of  Buckingham, 
on  his  death-bed,  to  Dr.  W . 

"  Dear  Doctor, 

ft  I  always  looked  upon  you  to  be  a  person  of  true 
virtue,  and  know  you  to  have  a  sound  understanding  ;  for, 
however  I  may  have  acted  in  opposition  to  the  principles  of 
religion,  or  the  dictates  of  reason,  I  can  honestly  assure 
you,  I  have  always  had  the  highest  veneration  for  both. 
The  world  and  I  shake  hands  ;  for  I  dare  affirm,  we  are 
heartily  weary  of  each  other.  O,  what  a  prodigal  have  I 
been  of  that  most  valuable  of  all  possessions,  Time !  I  have 
squandered  it  away  with  a  profusion  unparalleled ;  and 
now,  when  the  enjoyment  of  a  few  days  would  be  worth  the 
world,  I  cannot  flatter  myself  with  the  prospect  of  half  a 
dozen  hours.  How  despicable,  my  dear  friend,  is  that 
man  who  never  prays  to  his  God  but  in  the  time  of  dis- 
tress !  In  what  manner  can  he  supplicate  that  Omnipotent 
Being,  in. his  afflictions,  whom  in  the  time  of  his  prosperity, 
-he  never  remembered  with  reverence  1 

"  Do  not  brand  me  with  infidelity,  when  I  tell  you,  that 
I  am  almost  ashamed  to  ofl'er  up  my  petitions  at  the  throne 


SCARBOROUGH.  95 

of  Grace,  or  to  implore  that  divine  mercy  in  the   next 
•world,  which  I  have  so  scandalously  abused  in  this. 

"  Shall  ingratitude  to  man  be  looked  upon  as  the  blackest 
of  crimes,  and  not  ingratitude  to  God  1 

"  Shall  an  insult  offered  to  the  king  be  looked  upon  in 
the  most  offensive  light,  and  yet  no  notice  taken  when 
the  King  of  kings  is  treated  with  indignity  and  disre- 
spect I 

"  The  companions  of  my  former  libertinism  would  scarcely 
believe  their  eyes,  were  you  to  show  this  epistle.  They 
would  laugh  at  me  as  a  dreaming  enthusiast,  or  pity  me 
as  a  timorous  wretch,  who  was  shocked  at  the  appearance 
of  futurity ;  but  whoever  laughs  at  me  for  being  right,  or 
pities  me  for  being  sensible  of  my  errors,  is  more  entitled 
to  my  compassion  than  resentment.  A  future  state  may 
well  enough  strike  terror  into  any  man  who  has  not  acted 
well  in  this  life  ;  and  he  must  have  an  uncommon  share  of 
courage  indeed,  who  does  not  shrink  at  the  presence  of 
God.  The  apprehensions  of  death  will  soon  bring  the 
most  profligate  to  a  proper  use  of  his  understanding.  To 
what  a  situation  am  I  now  reduced !  Is  this  odious  little  hut 
a  suitable  lodging  for  a  Prince  1  Is  this  anxiety  of  mind  be- 
coming the  character  of  a  Christian?  From  my  rank,  I 
might  have  expected  affluence  to  wait  upon  my  life ;  from 
religion  and  understanding,  peace  to  smile  upon  my  end : 
instead  of  which,  I  am  afflicted  with  poverty,  and  haunted 
with  remorse,  despised  by  my  country,  and,  I  fear,  for- 
saken by  my  God. 


96  SCARBOROUGH. 

"  There  is  nothing  so  dangerous  as  extraordinary  abilities. 
I  cannot  be  accused  of  vanity  now,  by  being  sensible  that  I 
was  once  possessed  of  uncommon  qualifications,  especially 
as  I  sincerely  regret  that  I  ever  had  them.  My  rank  in 
life  made  these  accomplishments  still  more  conspicuous, 
and,  fascinated  by  the  general  applause  which  they  pro- 
cured, I  never  considered  the  proper  means  by  which  they 
should  be  displayed.  Hence,  to  procure  a  smile  from  a 
blockhead  whom  I  despised,  I  have  frequently  treated  the 
virtues  with  disrespect ;  and  sported  with  the  holy  name 
of  Heaven,  to  obtain  a  laugh  from  a  parcel  of  fools,  who 
were  entitled  to  nothing  but  contempt. 

"  Your  men  of  wit  generally  look  upon  themselves  as 
discharged  from  the  duties  of  religion,  and  confine  the  doc- 
trines of  the  gospel  to  meaner  understandings.  It  is  a 
sort  of  derogation,  in  their  opinion,  to  comply  with  the 
rules  of  Christianity  ;  and  they  reckon  that  man  possessed 
of  a  narrow  genius,  who  studies  to  be  good. 

"  What  a  pity  that  the  holy  writings  are  not  made  the 
criterion  of  true  judgment ;  or  that  any  person  should  pass 
for  a  fine  gentleman  in  this  world,  but  he  that  appears  soli- 
citous about  his  happiness  in  the  next ! 

"  I  am  forsaken  by  all  my  acquaintance,  utterly  neglected 
by  the  friend  of  my  bosom,  and  the  dependants  on  my 
bounty ;  but  no  matter !  I  am  not  fit  to  converse  with  the 
former,  and  have  no  ability  to  serve  the  latter.  Let  me 
not,  however,  be  wholly  cast  off  by  the  good.  Favour  me 
with  a  visit  as  soon  as  possible.    Writing  to  you  gives  ma 


SCARBOROUGH.  97 

some  ease,  especially  on  a  subject   I   could   talk   of  for 
ever. 

'*  I  am  of  opinion  this  is  the  last  visit  I  shall  ever  solicit 
from  you  ;  my  distemper  is  powerful :  come  and  pray  for 
the  departing  spirit  of  the  poor  unhappy — 

"  Buckingham." 

On  the  road  from  Kirkby  Moorside  to  Helmsley,  and 
Duncombe  Park,  is  tbe  celebrated 

KIRKDALE  CAVERN, 

of  the  discovery  of  which,  we  extract  the  following  from 

Young  and  Bird's  "  Geological  Survey  of  the  Yorkshire 

Coast." 
"  The  labourers  at  the  quarry  of  stone  for  repairing  roads 

at  Kirkdale,  having  removed  the  alluvium  from  above  a 
fresh  piece  of  the  rock,  in  the  north  part  of  the  quarry,  and 
wrought  this  rock  downwards  for  a  few  feet,  discovered,  in 
July  1821,  a  cavern  running  horizontally  from  the  slope  of 
the  bank  eastward,  and  then  making  a  turn  to  the  north 
east. 

"  The  operation  of  the  workmen  laid  open  that  part  of 
the  cave  which  extended  from  the  bank  to  the  remarkable 
turn  now  mentioned,  a  distance  of  forty-six  feet.  The 
aperture  towards  the  slope  was  nearly  square,  being  about 
two  feet  each  way ;  but  it  became  considerably  wider  to- 
wards the  turn,  and  a  little  higher.  The  stratum  forming 
the  floor  was  flat  and  unbroken,  and  was  thickly  covered 


"98  SCARBOROUGH. 

with  bones  and  teeth,  not  lying  in  distinct  skeletons,  but 
strewed  about  in  the  greatest  confusion,  and  mixed  with  a 
soft  marly  earth,  apparently  resulting  from  the  decompo- 
sition of  bones.  The  bones  had  scarcely  any  appearance 
of  being  water-worn  ;  a  few  of  them  were  tolerably  entire, 
but  the  greater  part  consisted  of  broken  fragments  of  leg 
bones,  thigh  bones,  jaw  bones,  &c. ;  and  many  of  them 
were  greatly  decomposed,  being  nearly  in  the  state  of 
phosphate  of  lime,  and  ready  to  crumble  into  powder. 
The  teeth  were  found,  partly  in  the  fragments  of  jaws,  and 
partly  detached.  The  quantity  of  bones,  in  this  part  of 
the  cavern,  was  reckoned  to  exceed  a  cart  load.  The  roof 
and  sides  of  the  cavern  were,  in  many  places,  incrusted 
with  stalactites,  masses  of  which  were  also  mixed  with 
the  bones  *." 

At  a  short  distance  from  this  cave,  is  Kirkdalb  Church, 
situated  in  a  fine  romantic  valley,  and  celebrated  for  a 
dial,  bearing  a  very  ancient  inscription f. 

HELMSLEY, 

the  property  of  C.  S.  Duncombe,  Esq.  is  an  ancient  market- 
town,  in  a  pleasant  situation,  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
Rye,  six  miles  from  Kirkby  Moorside.  The  cultivated  part 
of,  the  country  contiguous  to  it  is  fertile,  and  abounds  with 

*  Professor  Buckland,  P.  G.  S.  has  published  a  very  interesting 
volume  on  the  subject  of  this  cavern,  and  the  remains  found  in  it. 
t    S*.e  a  description  of  Duncombe  Park,  Rievaux  Abbey,  &c. 
price  2s.  6d.  and  Eastmead's  Hixtoria  Ricvallensis,  8vo. 


SCARUOROUGU.  99 

venerable  woods  ;  but,  at  a  distance,  the-  barren  moors  ap- 
pear in  view. 

The  remains  of  the  castle  are  grand  and  imposing,  con- 
sisting of  a  lofty  tower  ;  and  some  other  detached  broken 
parts,  with  a  noble  gateway,  situated  upon  an  eminence 
surrounded  with  a  double  moat.  This  tower,  in  conjunction 
with  the  rich  woodland  scenery  around,  forms  a  prominent 
and  most  interesting  object  from  the  exquisite  terrace  be- 
longing to  Duncombe  Park. 

Visitants  will  find  excellent  accommodations  at  the  New 
Inn,  at  Helmsley,  from  which  place  the  road  *  is  usually 
taken  to 

RIEVAUX  ABBEY, 

a  stately  vestige  of  antiquity,  situated  in  a  pleasant  vale, 
about  three  miles  from  Duncombe  Park.  The  ruins  yet  stand- 
ing, are  noble,  and  prove  the  abbey  to  have  been  of  great 
extent.  The  situation  is  not  to  be  surpassed  in  picturesque 
beauty.     At  a  little  distance  from  the  abbey,  are  the  gar- 

*  Parties  generally  take  their  vehicle  to  the  Abbey,  whence  they 
walk  to  Duncombe  Park  along  the  fine  terrace,  called  the  Bank 
Top,  which  is  near  the  Abbey  ruins,  and  return  through  the  Park 
to  Helmsley,  in  which  course  the  ruins  of  the  Castle  will  meet 
the  eye,  and  call  for  minute  examination.  Those  who  can  spare 
time,  should  contrive  to  devote  two  days  to  the  excursion  ,  sleep, 
ing  the  first  night  at  Kirkby  Moorside,  or  at  Helmsley,  and  pro- 
ceeding the  next  morning  to  inspect  those  majestic  and  enchant- 
ing scenes. 


100  .SCARBOROUGH. 

dener's  apartments,  whence  there  is  a  steep  and  winding 
path  ascending  to  a  charming  terrace,  which  overlooks  the 
ruins,  and  commands  the  most  beautiful  and  diversified 
prospects.  At  one  end  is  an  elegant  pavilion  ornamented 
with  paintings ;  at  the  other  a  handsome  circular  temple, 
whence  appears  an  extensive  valley  richly  adorneu  witn 
wood  and  water.  The  north  side  of  the  terrace  is  defend- 
ed by  a  thick  plantation  of  firs,  and  the  slopes  are  covered 
with  a  variety  of  trees  and  shrubs.  Indeed  the  scenery  is 
altogether  beyond  description  fascinating. 

DUNCOMBE  PARK, 

the  seat  of  C.  S.  Duncombe,  Esq.  is  about  two  miles  from 
Helmsley.  The  house  is  a  fine  building  designed  by  Sir 
John  Vanbrugh.  In  the  JtiaJl,  a  noble  room,  sixty  feet  long 
and  forty  wide,  surrounded  with  fourteen  large  Corinthian 
pillars  of  stone,  is  that  invaluable  piece  of  sculpture,  the 
Dog  of  Alcibiades,  the  performance  of  the  celebrated  Myron, 
and  the  celebrated  statue  of  the  Discobolus,  which  is  es- 
teemed the  first  statue  in  England.  The  saloon  has,  in 
spirit  with  the  laudable  fashion  of  the  times,  lately  been 
converted  into  a  library.  The  collection  of  paintings,  though 
not  very  numerous,  is  extremely  capital  and  choice. 

We  must  not  fail  to  notice  to  the  traveller,  that  By  land 
Abbey,  an  interesting  ruin,  is  only  about  four  miles  from 
Rievaux  Abbey. 


.SCAKBOKOIIGH.  101 


CASTLE  HOWARD, 

the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Carlisle,  six  miles  to  the  west  of 
Malton  *,  (which  place  is  distant  twenty-two  miles  from 
Scarborough,)  stands  upon  a  beautiful  eminence  in  view  of 
the  York  road,  and  is  esteemed  one  of  the  noblest  mansions 
in  this  county.  It  was  built  from  a  design  of  Sir  John 
Vanbrugh.  The  large  and  princely  collection  of  antique 
busts,  statues,  marbles,  urns,  and  paintings,  with  which 
this  mansion  is  enriched,  affords  a  high  gratification  to  the 
admirers  of  the  fine  arts,  while  the  liberality  of  the  noble 
proprietor  entitles  him  to  the  praise  and  gratitude  of  the 
public,  for  allowing  them  to  participate  of  the  pleasures 
arising  from  such  a  repository  of  taste. 

An  enumeration  of  the  whole  of  the  paintings  here  would 
be  too  extensive  for  insertion  :  a  selection  only  will,  there- 
fore, be  introduced.  The  three  of  greatest  reputation, 
formed  a  part  of  the  Orleans  collection.  The  most  cele- 
brated picture  is  that  of  the  Three  Maries,  by  Annibal  Ca- 
racci. 

In  this  astonishing  effort  of  art  all  the  excellencies  of 
painting  are  united.     With  respect  to  the  reputed  value  of 

*  The  York  Coach  might  be  taken  in  the  morning  at  seven  for 
Malton,  where  at  the  Talbot  Inn  are  good  accommodations,  and 
there  would  be  sufficient  time  to  inspect  the  house,  and  return  to 
Malton  to  meet  the  coach  about  three  p.  m.  for  Scarborough. 


102  SCARBOROUGH. 

this  extraordinary  performance,  it  has  been  alledged  that 
the  court  of  Spain  proposed  to  cover  it  with  louis-d'ors,  and 
that  this  would  have  amounted  to  eight  thousand.  The 
following  lines  were  composed  on  seeing  a  lady  burst  into 
tears,  upon  contemplating  this  exquisite  performance. 

"  The  veil  *  withdrawn,  in  plenitude  of  art, 
The  tragic  subject  storm'd  the  Christian  heart  j 
Still,  as  she  bow'd  with  reverential  awe 
O'er  the  dead  author  of  the  living  law, 
And  view'd  the  anguish  of  contrasted  woes, 
Congenial  sorrows  in  her  breast  arose : 
Rooted  she  stood,  i  ntranc'd  in  speechless  grief, 
Pure  as  her  love,  |  nd  strong  as  her  belief; 
Her  bosom  glow'd,  her  heart  refus'd  to  beat, 
'Till  gushing  tears  allay'd  the  fervent  heat : 
Such  hallow'd  tears  as  saints  and  angels  shed. 
When  from  the  cross,  redemption  rear'd  her  head  ; 
Tears  sooth'd  by  hope,  which  now  maturely  beam'd, 
A  Saviour  martyr'd— -but  a  world  redeem'd." 

The  following  must  be  particularly  noticed  : 
The  Entombing  if  Christ — Ludovico  Caracci;  The  Finding 
of  Moses — Dim  Diego  Velasquez;  Adoration  of  our  Saviour  by 
the  Wise  Men — M abuse ;  The  Portrait  of  Snyders — Vandyck  ; 
Herodias  with  the  Head  of  John  the  Baptist  in  a  Charger — 
Rubens;  The  Circumcision — Giovanni  Bellani ;  Isaac  going  to 
be  sacrificed — Rembrandt;  Saint  John  the  Evangelist — Do- 
menichino  ;  Portrait  of  Omni — Sir  Joshua  Reynolds. 

*  The  picture  is  shaded  by  a  curtain. 


SCARBOROUGH.  103 

The  Park  is  enriched  with  several  ornamental  buildings, 
viz.  a  Mausoleum,  an  Ionic  Temple,  a  stately  Obelisk,  &c. 

A  view  of  this  mansion  from  a  drawing  by  J.  Jackson, 
R.  A.  has  lately  been  published. 


Take  Scarborough  and  its  environs  in  conjunction,  and 
there  will  be  found  "  Scenes  worthy  of  the  pen  of  Virgil,  or 
the  pencil  of  Loiraine." 


J.  COLE,  PRINTER,  SCARBOROUGH. 


Infcrjr* 


Page 

Bathing 38,45 

Infirmary    ....  13 

Lines  on,  14 

Baths,  Travis's 39 

Harland's      .....ib. 

near  the  Piers    ...40 

Champley's    ....41 

Blue  stone  59 

Boarding-houses     58 

Bridlington     87" 

Carriers 54 

Castle    4 

Howard     101 

Cayton-cliffMill    74 

Chapels 23 

Charitable  Institutions..    11 

Church,  St.  Mary's     18 

Cloughton  Wyke    75 

Coaches 56 

Customs  of  Scarborough,  38 

in  1733  ...15 

Drawing,   Music,   Dancing, 

French,  &c.  Masters  . .  55 

Duncombe  Park  100 


,      P"se 
Excursions    upon   the    Sea, 

observations  on 46 

Flamborough  Cliffs    ....  86 

Filey    85 

Fishing     46,73 

Hackness    75 

Harwood-dale    73 

Helmsley       .   98 

Hotels 58 

Horses  to  be  let    54 

Hunmanby 80 

Inns    58 

Kirkby  Moorside    91 

Kirkdale  Cavern    97 

Libraries    ..... .47,  50,  53 

Lodgings 57,  59 

Market-Cross 60 

Minerals  and  Fossils     . .  48 
Mount  Oliver  • 64,  80 


106 


Page 
Museums     47,  89 

News-Rooms      47 

Packets     54,57 

Pianofortes  for  hire   •  •  •  •  55 

Pickering    90 

Plantations     62 

Post-Office      53 

Rievaux  Abbey 99 

Robin  Hood's  Bay     88 

Rudston 87 

Spaw  26 

Tea-houses     73 

Theatre  37 


Page 
Tide,    high   and    strong,    of 

Feb.  3  and  4,  1825    ..36 

Observations  on    . .  44 

Town-Hall      36 

— News-Room  and 

Library    47 

Trade 10 

Walks  in  the  immediate  Vi- 
cinity of  Scarborough,    62 

on  the  Cliff-terrace,  66 

to    Mr.    Cracknell's 

Shop    69 

to  Mr.  Crawford's,  ib. 

Mr.  Pearson's  Gar- 
dens      71 

Carnelian  Bay,  74 

Whitby    89 


ftf**' 


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University  of  California 

SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRARY  FACILITY 

405  Hilgard  Avenue,  Los  Angeles,  CA  90024-1388 

Return  this  material  to  the  library 

from  which  it  was  borrowed. 


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