Full text of "Craigmillar and its environs; with notices of the topography, natural history, and antiquities of the district"

See other formats

Gc M, L

941.445011

C886S

1335512

GENEALOGY COLLECTION

833 00674 8658

/^ ^--^ ^^1'

CRAIGMILLAR AND ITS ENVIRONS

CRAIGMILLAR

AND ITS ENVIRONS

WITH NOTICES OF THE

TOPOGRAPHY, NATURAL HISTORY, AND
ANTIQUITIES OF THE DISTRICT

TOM SPEEDY

AUTHOR OF 'SPORT IN THE HIGHLANDS AND LOWLANDS OF
SCOTLAND WITH ROD AND GUN '

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS

SELKIRK: GEORGE LEWIS AND SON
MDCCCXCII

1355512

SIR JAMES GARDINER BAIRD, Baronet,

WHO,

DURING A LONG RESIDENCE AT THE INCH,

BY HIS COURTESY AND KINDLINESS

ENDEARED HIMSELF TO ALL INTERESTED IN THE

WELLBEING OF THE DISTRICT

"^ 6 1 s ^ o r fi

IS RESPECTFULIvY DEDICATED

PREFACE

.^^.

The historical interest which for several centuries has
attached to Craigmillar Castle and the surrounding
landscape is my apology for the publication of the
present work. Such a work, I felt persuaded, would
be acceptable to many long familiar with the traditions
of the district, as well as to a large number of those
who from distant lands have made pilgrimages to the
time-honoured castle. The work makes no pretensions
to high literary culture, but it does claim to be a
faithful and reliable record of the times, places, and
circumstances to which it refers. The materials
have been collected with much care, after a resi-
dence of many years on the Craigmillar estate.
The advantages thus derived have been greatly
increased, and my labour lightened, by the valuable
aid which I have received from several competent

viii Preface.

authorities in their respective spheres. Among these
I would specially mention Mr Thomas Ross, who
has supplied me with valuable information regarding
the architectural features of the ancient ruin. To
several of my fellow-members of the Edinburgh Field
Naturalists' Society I am also indebted — especially to
Mr A. Moffat, Mr M. King, and Mr John Lindsay,
for information regarding the botanical aspects of the
district; and to Mr John A. Johnston for the geologi-
cal features. To the librarians of the University and
Signet Libraries and their courteous assistants I also
owe my best thanks for the facilities afforded me in
consulting old and rare books.

T. S.

The Inch, Edinburgh,
August 1892.

CONTENTS.

I.— THE CASTLE: ITS ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES.

View from the battlements — Impregnable position of the castle — Suc-
cessive alterations on original plan — A curious staircase — The
Great Hall — "Queen Mary's Room" — The curtain walls of the
castle — Skeleton found in dungeon — The towers of the castle —
The living rooms — Ruins of the chapel — Arms carved on the
walls . . . . . . . .

II. -THE CASTLE: ITS HISTORICAL ASSOCIATIONS.

Derivation of name— Notices in old records — Successive possessors —
State tragedy enacted in castle — Its capture by the English — Its
intimate connection with Queen Mary — A royal conference —
Both well at Craigmillar — ^James VI. here plans his matrimonial
tour to Denmark — Battle between the royalist and rebel forces •
Sir John Gilmour, proprietor of Craigmillar— Structural altera-
tions made by him — His successors — The last tenants

HI.— FAUNA OF THE DISTRICT.

Badgers — An otter hunt — A "run" with the Duke of Buccleuch's
hounds — Story of a stoat — A bat's nest — A "meet" of the Mid-
Lothian harriers — Trait of natural affection in a rat — Depredations
of voles — Popular dread of "reptiles" — Hatching of newts and
frogs — Fishing with a frog for bait — Fish of the district

Contents.

IV.— AVIFAUNA OF THE DISTRICT.

Rich variety of bird-life in Craigmillar district — The aquatic birds —
The owl family — Adventure with a tawny owl — Crows and rooks —
Story of a cuckoo — "Jacky," the Liberton magpie — Alarm raised
from proceedings of a woodpecker — The thrushes and other song-
birds— Diving feats of the little grebe — Incident regarding a
sparrow-hawk — Food of the kestrel — Wholesale capture of the
lark — Superstitious ideas regarding the lapwing — Gulls attacking
sickly lambs — Velocity of flight in a pheasant — Do starlings
devour larks' eggs? — The tits — The sedge-warbler's song — The
sjnaller song-birds ....... 80

v.— BOTANY OF THE DISTRICT.

Flora of Craigmillar district rich and varied — Flora of Arthur's Seat
long engaged attention — Lists of plants at various dates — Many
wild plants now disappearing from old stations — Plants at the
castle, &c. — "A natural rock-garden" — Aquatic plants of Dud-
dingston Loch — The "Craigmillar Sycamore" — Seedlings from
the old tree — Seedling planted by Lord Rosebery at Linlithgow
Palace — Inscription at foot of tree — List of some of the native
plants . . . . . . ■ .

VI.— GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF THE DISTRICT.

Few districts so interesting to the geologist — Various "systems" re-
presented— The Carboniferous rocks — The Igneous rocks — Fossils
of the district — Examples of glacial action — Craigmillar building-
stone — Public and private buildings and other structures for
which stone was used — "Hard labour" for female offenders — The
Picts said to have built Edinburgh Castle from Craigmillar
quarry . . . . . . . . .152

VII.— THE ENVIRONS OF CRAIGMILLAR.

Panorama from battlements of Craigmillar Castle — History of The
Inch — Its successive proprietors — Cromwell's sword at The Inch
House— Nether Liberton— The Boroughmoor and Blackford Hill

Contents.

— The Barony of Over Liberton — Liberton Village — John Pounds
and Dr Guthrie — Proprietors of Upper Liberton — Liberton House
and its architectural features — Structural design of Liberton
Tower— The Braid Hills— Mortoiihall— The Balm Well— Burdie-
house and Straiton — The Pentlands — RuUion Green — The
Martyrs' Monument — Hugh M'Kail — Old Woodhouselee —
Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh and the Regent Murray — The
modern Woodhouselee — The Tytler family — Relics of Queen
Mary at Woodhouselee ...... i68

VIIL— PROXIMATE LANDSCAPE.

Duddingston village and loch — Duddingston parish church — The
Rev. Robert Monteith — The Rev. John Thomson — Easter Dud-
dingston Lodge — PefFer Mill — " Half-hangit Maggie Dickson" —
Craigmillar Irrigated Meadows — The ancient forest of Druni-
selch — Large antlers of red deer found — Bridgend — Priestfield or
Prestonfield — Niddrie— The Wauchopes of Niddrie — Colonel
Wauchope of the Black Watch — Edmonstone — Little France —
Kingston Grange — Moredun — Story of Baron MoncriefF and
James Boswell — Stenhouse — The Stenhouse witches — Lady
Gilton — Hyvot's Mill — Gilmerton — The "subterranean cave" —
The tragedy of Burntdool — The Drum — Successive proprietors
of the Drum— Conclusion ...... 206

Index ......... 243

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Craigmillar Castle,

Captain Gordon Gilmour,

A Group of Newts,

Arthur's Seat and Queen's Park

The Inch House, ...

Liberton Industrial School Pipers,

William Charles Little of Liberton,

Tombstone in Memory of the Covenanters at

RuLLioN Green,
Duddingston Loch,
Peffer Mill House,
Kingston Grange,
Gilmerton Subterranean Cave,

Ground-plan of Craigmillar Castle,
Original Entrance to Keep,
Fireplace in Great Hall, .
Doorway to Main Staircase,
South-east Tower,
Corbelled Chamber on South Side,
The Chapel, ....

PAGE

Frontispiece

To face

126

170

182

188

198

208

212

226

238

List of Illustrations.

Sculptured Stones,

Edinburgh from Craigmillar,

Preston Arms, with Supporters,

View from Craigmillar, looking East,

WOOLMET, .....

Sir John Gilmour, President of Court of Session,

The Gilmour Crest,

The Badger, ....

Long-eared and Daubenton's Bats, .

Voles, .....

Long-tailed Duck,

The Quail, ....

The Pet Kingfisher, .

The Barn Owl, ....

Cuckoo fed by a Wagtail,

"Jacky," the Liberton Magpie,

The Great Spotted Woodpecker, .

The Goatsucker or Night-jar.

The Swift, ....

Chaffinch, Bullfinch, and Crossbill,

Queen Mary's Tree,

Scale of Fish (Rhizodus Hibbertii), .

Portion of Jaw of Fish (Rhizodus Hibberiii),

Ice-worn Surface of Rock, Queen's Drive,

Carboniferous Fern (Sphenoptcris affittis), .

The Inch House as it was,

Cromwell's Sword, at The Inch House, .

Old Cottages at The Inch, .

List of Illustrations.

Dovecot and Mill-dam, Nether Liberton,

" Good's Corner," Nether Liberton,

Liberton, from the Boroughmoor,

Liberton Industrial School,

Peep of Liberton House,

Liberton Tower,

View from the Braids,

Mortonhall,

Solitaire, worn by Queen Mary,

Queen Mary's Watch, at Woodhouselee,

Entrance Door, Peffer Mill,

Dormer Window and Sun-dial, Peffer Mill,

Bridgend, from the Suburban Railway, .

Prestonfield, from Arthur's Seat,

NiDDRiE House, .....

Edmonstone House, from Craigmillar Woods,

MoREDUN House, .

View in Moredun Park,

Stenhouse,

Hyvot's Mill,

GiLMERTON House,

Gilmerton, looking East,

Drum House,

Drum House, from the South-East,

175
176
179
180
187
190
192
194
204
205
211
212
214
216
218
223
227
229
232
233
235
236
240
241

Sraigmiffor end its SmuiroFis.

$l4s ^Qstfe — its QreSltGet^ral f^eotiares.

HE massive ruin of Craigmillar Castle is a
well known landmark to the citizens of
Edinburgh and the surrounding district.
It is also an object of attraction to strangers visiting
Edinburgh from all parts of the world, by reason of
the associations and traditions with which its history
is invested. From its battlements a magnificent
panoramic scene meets the gaze of the observer. To
the north towers venerable Arthur's Seat, beneath
whose shadow Duddingston Church and Loch lie calm
and peaceful. A little to the west, the metropolis, with
its castle and numerous spires, stands out in bold relief.
In the distance is the Firth of Forth, ever widening
towards the ocean, with the Bass Rock and North

Craigniillay and its Environs.

Berwick Law conspicuously prominent. Behind are
Liberton Kirk and parish, Gilmerton, Straiton, and
various other villao^es ; the whole being bounded by
the Pentland, Moorfoot, and Lammermoor ranges.

The Castle of Craigmillar comprises an old Scottish
keep, in style similar to many others throughout
Scotland. It was of old a famous fortress, and
belonged in time of war to the king, no subject
being allowed to build castles or strongholds on any
other condition. Extensive additions have been made
to the castle from time to time. The keep, occupying
the centre of the south front, stands on the edge of
a cliff about twenty feet high, and is so near the
edge that there is scanty room left for access to the
door ; while at some parts a foothold at the top of the
rocks is all that can be obtained. Immediately in
front of the door a deep indentation in the rock almost
intersects the path, and before the additions to the
castle changed the aspect of affairs, this cutting
must have made it almost impregnable, as, apart
from the door, there was no other opening on the
ground floor except one small window a few inches

The Castle — Its Architectural Features.

Crai^millar and its Environs.

wide, the other entrance on the west side being of later
construction. The cutting in the rock is now bridged
over by a modern arch, which carries the footpath lead-
ing to the doorway, but the difficulty of access which
originally existed will still be understood by examining

the fortress from the south
^^"'' ^-*^ side. Up to 1884 this cut-

ting was spanned by trunks
of trees, and a clear path,
protected by the present
high parapet, laid across
the dangerous point. While
repairing the ruin in the
year referred to, the late
Mr Little Gilmour had
the trees removed, as they
were showing signs of
decay.

The doorway, which
looks to the west, is round-
Originai, Entkanck to kkep. headed, and surmounted
by the Preston Arms. Here, as in all the external

The Castle — Its Architectural Features. 5

entrances to the Castle, are to be seen long holes cut
in the walls, to receive sliding beams, by which the
doors were barricaded across. About nine feet from
the door the passage divides, the branch on the left
hand leading to the ground floor, and the one
in front to the staircase. By the former the visitor
enters a small chamber, limited in its dimensions
by the thickness of the wall, and from which he
passes into the large chamber on the ground floor.
This is vaulted by a loft}^ arch, beneath which there
was an intermediate floor of wood. The under floor
was divided by a partition wall into two apartments.
The upper chamber, evidently reached by a ladder,
was lighted by a window at each end, and had a door
of communication with the small chamber above
referred to.

The staircase leading to the Great Hall has a peculiar
arrangement. It is a corkscrew stair, and after ascend-
ing about ten feet by a couple of revolutions, it suddenly
comes to a stop, when, turning abruptly to the left,
another staircase begins, by which the ascent is com-
pleted. If the first stair had been continued upwards.

Craiginillar and its Environs.

it would have landed in the room known as " Queen
Mary's Room." At the beginning of the second
staircase a doorway overlooks the entrance hall, and
the shifting of the staircase here to the side has evi-
dently been for the purpose of securing more space

'^c^'^Iv^^t

FiREPivACE IN Great Hall.

for the action of men defending the castle. In the
event of the outer door being forced, an enemy could
from this point be most severely handled by the in-
mates, with comparative immunity from danger.

The Great Hall is a noble apartment, 35 feet

The Castle — 7/5 Architectural Features. 7

long, 20 feet g inches wide, and 20 feet 6 inches
high, to the apex of its arched roof. The walls,
which are of an average thickness of 9 feet, are
pierced by windows on the north, south, and east,
all provided with stone seats. These are each large
enough to accommodate six or seven persons, and
would be useful as retiring places. The fireplace is a
fine specimen of its kind, and is well preserved. There
was a crack in the lintel, but the late proprietor, Mr
Little Gilmour, had it secured by an iron band.
Beside it a doorway leads down by steps to the more
modern part of the castle on the west. The hall has
been divided into two storeys. The stone corbels for
supporting the central beams are painted, the orna-
ments on them being still distinct, but of the painting
on the vault above very little remains. Off the hall
there is, as already indicated, a small arched room,
known as " Queen Mary's Room." It is partly
furnished, having a table and a few chairs which are
used nowadays by picnic parties. There is also an
old flint gun and a coat of mail, which tradition
asserts to have belonged to Darnley. On the wall

Crais'iniUar and its Environs.

is a print of Queen Mary, with the following beautiful
verses by Mr Scott Riddell subjoined: —

"Yes, thou art Mary, Scotland's Queen,

Embodied forth by magic art,
An image that long, long hath been

Enshrined within a nation's heart :
And who can gaze upon thee now.

And know no sorrow for the tears
Wrung from thy heart in passing through

The pilgrimage of hapless years?

We feel there is a mournful charm,

That hides thy frailties in decay,
While thinking how a heart so warm

Could e'er grow cold as other clay.
The white rose shall no sweets impart,

The thistle wave no longer green.
Ere time shall melt from Scotland's heart

The memory of her lovely Queen."

As is usual in castles of this type, the stair leading
to the top is not a continuation of the lower one. On
the opposite side of the passage leading into the Great
Hall another spiral staircase ascends. At the first
landing a door leads into the floor already referred
to as having existed over the hall, and another to
an entresol room over " Queen Mary's Room." This

The Castle — Its Architectural Features. g

latter is a very beautiful apartment, of plain and
simple architecture. Adjoining it is a most complete
garde-robe. Continuing up the staircase, the top is
reached, where steps branch off on either side, leading,
the one to the roof and the other to the upper and
now roofless room over Queen Mary's. The intro-
duction of this room seems to be a change on the
original design. On the south front and at the floor
level are two corbels, probably the remains of machi-
colations continued round the three faces of this
projecting part of the castle, while the main flat
roof was in all likelihood continued over this part.
It is not easy otherwise to account for the corbels
referred to. There is further a decided change in
the masonry at this level, the stones being smaller
and the windows larger in proportion to the size of
the room. The rybats, too, are wrought with rounded
edges instead of splays, as elsewhere throughout the
keep. Doing away with the machicolations, leaving
two of the corbels, heightening the wall plumb with
the face below, putting on a high pitched roof, and
thus gaining a room, are other results of the change.

A 2

lo Craigmillar and its Environs.

The main roof is very flat, and was originally
covered with overlapping stones, the under stone
being wrought with a groove along the sides of its
upper surface. Two rows thus wrought were laid
in their sloping position, with a space between for
the overlapping stones, which extended over the
grooves, the object of this being that rain blown in
beneath the edges of the overlapping row^ would be
caught in the groove, and thus run down to the
carefully formed gutter. Prior to 1884 the roof was
in a very dilapidated condition, in consequence of rain
and snow getting in, the stones of some of the line
arches were being dislodged by frost, and it was very
apparent that unless steps were taken to preserve the
ruin, it would soon become a shadowy relic of the past.

In the spring of the year referred to, the Edinburgh
Architectural Association paid a visit to Craigmillar,
and reported the matter to Mr Little Gilmour. With
great public spirit, and at very considerable expense,
that gentleman had extensive repairs carried out
on the building, care being taken that no damp
should get down through the masonry. As only a

The Castle — Its Architectural Features. ii

part of the overlapping stones of the roof could be
found, these were put in on the south-west corner,
and the remainder of the roof was carefully made
watertight with cement.

The parapet round the roof is brought up flush
with the face of the walls, and most of the embrasures
can still be traced. The roof was doubtless con-
structed flat for the convenience of working military
engines. The total height of the keep from the
top of the rock is about seventy feet, and to the base
about ninety feet. The additions which have been
made at various times have considerably altered the
aspect and internal arrangements of the castle, especi-
ally with regard to the entrance. In the first instance,
a great curtain wall was erected, the keep itself form-
ing a part on the south, with angle towers, and
enclosing a courtyard. The space within the outer
walls averages 122 feet from east to west by 80 feet
from north to south. Later, and at various times,
within this courtyard, buildings have been added
against the curtain walls on the east, west, and south
sides. The entrance gateway was in the north curtain.

12 Craigiiiillar and its Environs.

Beyond this to the east, west, and north are outer
walls, strong and high, enclosing a space of about
i\ acre within the castle bounds, which formed the
outer bailey or courtyard. The south wall is
merely a continuation of the castle front along
the top of the precipice. Within these walls, again,
various offices were built at different times. The
outer wall on the north side runs nearly parallel
with the north curtain, and a little beyond the line
of the curtain door it turns off at right angles out-
wards for about 17 feet, and in this space is contained
the first or outer entrance, being a round arched
gateway, 7 feet 4 inches wide by 10 feet 6 inches
high, in a wall 4 feet 6 inches thick. The position
of this gateway is so chosen that, in the event of
its being forced, the assailants would not be able
to make a straight rush to the door in the curtain
wall. It is also commanded by a round tower at the
north-east corner, which guards the east wall likewise.
This tower was also fitted up as a pigeon-house.

The curtain walls are about 28 feet high to the
top of the parapet, and 5 feet thick. In the north

The Castle — Its Architectural Features. 13

wall, but not in the centre, is situated the door-
way, and inside on either hand is an arched recess
about 9 feet above the ground, having a spy window
and stone seat for a sentinel. These were reached
by ladders from enclosed recesses beneath.

The east range of buildings is three storeys high,
the first two storeys being vaulted. A gloomy sunk
floor at the south end is reached by a separate stair,
off which runs a lobby leading to the bakery, which
has a very complete well-constructed oven. Adjoining
the bakery is the well room, and on the opposite side
of the passage is a low, dark dungeon, with a private
trap-stair to the room above, and a narrow drain
through the wall, having a kind of sink at both ends.
A human skeleton was discovered here in 181 3 by
John Pinkerton, Advocate, and Mr Irvine, W.S., but
on being exposed to the air it shortly crumbled into
dust. From the fact of its being found in an upright
position, Sir Walter Scott and others who visited the
place were of opinion that the victim had been im-
mured alive.

It has been asserted that from the dungeon a

Craiginillar and its Environs.

subterranean passage at one time communicated with
the mansion-house of Peffer Mill. This tradition,
however, is not borne out by facts. A layer of
Craigmillar rock runs through the entire intervening
ground, and from its adamantine nature the cutting of
a subterranean passage was highly improbable. The

matter was, how-
ever, set at rest
when the Subur-
ban Railway was
constructed, ex-
cavations being
made through the
line of the sup-
posed tunnel at a
very considerable
depth, when no
trace whatever of
a subterranean
passage was dis-
covered.
The beautiful doorway in the east range of build-

I)i)()K wan-

Ma IX Staircase.

The Castle — Its Architectural Features. 15

ings erected about the time of Queen Mary, became
the principal entrance to the keep, in place of the old
doorway in the south-west side. From the doorway
a wide spiral staircase led up to the Great Hall and
upper floors of the new wing.

On the ground floor of the east wing are offices and a
large room, to the south. A private stair in the south-
east corner led down to a postern in the west side of
this tower, which was doubtless found to be a danger-
ous convenience, and it was ultimately built up, the
steps being removed, the tower made into a closet,
and the large room divided by a thick partition. At
the side of the east doorway above referred to, and in
the thickness of the wall, a separate stair leads up to
the kitchen, which has a large arched fireplace, a stone
sink with drain, and a service window into the
corridor leading to the Great Hall. The room
adjoining the kitchen to the north was a private
apartment, having a separate staircase from the court-
yard. From the floor above the kitchen the east and
north battlements are reached through the south-east
tower. These are supported on bold corbels with

Craigmillar and its Environs.

machicolations, through which stones could be thrown
on an enemy approaching the base of the walls. The
corbels of the corner towers are slightly higher than
those of the walls, and somewhat different in con-

owm<?

to their smaller projection. The
upright parts of the battlements
are splayed away over the openings,
so as to increase the range of the
defenders' missiles.

Prior to 1884 there was a large
mass of earth on the roof of the
north-east tower. This was doubt-
less placed there for the purpose of
minimising the destructive effect of
stones thrown from mangonels or

^ catapults. Below six feet of this
earth a large stone, with the Preston

South-east Tower. Arms and supporters, carefully laid
face downwards, was discovered, and was built into the
wall above the doorway to the main staircase. In the
centre of the south-east tower is a raised platform, reach-
ed by steps, from which shots could be fired over the

The Castle — Its Architectural Features.

heads of those defending the battlements. A narrow
stair in this tower leads to the battlement of the south
front. Projected on comparatively small corbels,
it stretches towards the keep for about thirty-three
feet, and although at a lower level than the battle-
ments just described, it is, on account of the precipice,
higher above the ground. The parapet has dis-
appeared, but it was of more than
ordinary height between the embras-
ures. At the keep end of the balcony
is a small apartment formed by a
bold, massive, projecting structure
leading from the room inside.

When the west wing came to be
added, the west curtain was nearly all
taken down, and rebuilt as it now
stands, with windows and chimneys,
and without the machicolations. This
was the latest addition made to the
castle. The west wing is two storeys
high, with vaults at the south end.
Although built in a lighter style than any other part,

Corbelled Chambkk
ON South Side.

Cvaigmillar and its Environs.

it still gives evidence of a desire on the part of its
owners for security, and their determination that
there should be no entrance to the garden, which is
on this side, except by the roundabout way through
the north curtain. The rooms in this wing are
large and handsome, entering through each other
in the style of the seventeenth century. This
was evidently the residential part, with its separate
entrance from the courtyard, kitchen, dining-room,
and private bedrooms. The dining-room had a
beautiful fireplace, lined with Dutch tiles, and a
window with a mullion and transom. Off a short
court at the south end, and also communicating with
the rooms, is a small retiring room with a garde-robe
projecting outside, and window with seats. It is pro-
bably owing to the quatrefoil light in this room, giving
it an ecclesiastical look, that it has been called the
"Confessional" in some local guide-books. Communi-
cation with other parts of the castle was by a stair
between the west wing and the keep, and through the
Great Hall on to the rooms beyond. The bowling-green
was on the west side, immediately outside of this range

The Castle — Its Architectural Features. 19

of buildings, and from it a flight of steps led down to
the gardens at the lower level. Here the bed of the fish-
pond can still be seen in the shape of the letter " P,"
no doubt intended for " Preston." The steps are now
quite ruinous, and the dies serve for gate pillars at the
entrance to the neighbouring farm-house. The present
proprietor, Captain Gordon Gilmour, who takes a great
interest in the ruin, intends having these restored to
their original position. . When the additions referred to
were made to the castle, the old south curtain wall was
not taken down, and as it now stands is most interest-
ing, exhibiting a complete arrangement for the erection
of a breteche or hoarding for defence. A row of corbels
runs along the curtain, and above them the holes for
the projecting putlogs for supporting the hoarding, and
a wooden gallery which enabled the defenders to see
the foot of the wall, and to throw stones or other
missiles upon assailants. A row of upper corbels, care-
fully checked on top for the beam supporting the roof
of the hoarding, is still in position, while the door
leading out to it from the level of the upper floor also
exists, now built up and forming a press inside. An

Craigmillar and its Environs.

iron ring, still existing at the side of this door, was
probably meant for the rope or chain used to fix up the
trap-door in the floor of the hoarding.

Between the east curtain and the outside wall is a
small chapel, roofless, but otherwise entire, measuring

inside about 30 feet by 14 feet g inches. The door
is at the west end of the south front. The chapel
has been lighted by two square-headed windows on
the south side, the eastern one having a mullion, and
a small circular window high up in the west gable.
Inside there is a carved piscina. Except that the

The Castle — Its Arcliitectiiral Features.

gables have crow-steps, the chapel is very similar in
style to the work of the Perpendicular period in
England. The large, ivy-covered building at the west
end was, as stated by the Rev. Thomas White, minister
of Liberton, who wrote about 1752, "a Protestant
Presbyterian meeting-house," erected upon an indul-
gence granted by James VII. of Scotland.^ It was
probably at first one of the barns or offices connected
with the castle, and turned to this purpose. Above
the doorway are the Preston Arms, with the date 1549.
All writers on Craigmillar, including the Rev.
Thomas White, Sir Walter Scott, and Dr John Hill
Burton, refer to the arms of the Cockburns, Con-
galtons, Mowbrays, and Otterburns, as adorning the
walls of the castle. None of these, how-
ever, are here now, nor any other except
the Preston Arms, which occur four times,
and the Royal Arms, which surmount the
Preston Arms over the entrance above the
north gateway into inner courtyard, and Rebus.
again over the door leading to the south battlements
^ Transactions of the Antiquarian Society.

Crai^niillar and its Environs.

\3A

Shot Holes
IN Parapet.

at the east end. Besides these there is a rebus on
the name " Pres-tun," and on the parapets of the
^ — ^ east and north curtain are holes
which form the centre of letters —
those to the north being the letters
" P " for Preston and " G " prob-
ably for Gorton, the family being
sometimes styled " of Craigmillar,"

SHOT HOLES

sometimes " of Gourton." ^ The '"^ parapet.
letter on the east parapet may be either a '< P "
or an " R." In a large stone built into this curtain
the letter " S " is pierced. It evidently stands for
Symon Preston, the well known Provost of Edin-
burgh, and friend of Queen Mary. On the outside
of the north curtain is a large projecting stone basin
about five feet above the ground, and having a stone
pipe led through the wall into the north-east corner
of the courtyard for passing in a supplementary
water supply to the castle.

We gather from these records of bygone da3's
a lesson not merely instructive to the antiquarian,
' Gorton stands on the South Esk, Mid-Lothian.

The Castle — Its Architectural Features.

but to all thoughtful students of history and of human
nature. We here learn that even the greatest nobles
of the land are amenable to those elements of change
which decree that no family, however noble and for-
midable in social and political influence, can retain
a permanent monopoly in the possessions of a fickle
and fleeting world.

Preston Arms over Entrance.

(Srai^ffiilleir (Pastfs — itrS ^IstoriGsf

The name of Craigmillar is said to
be derived from the Gaelic craig-
moil-ard, signifying a high and bare
rock, which no doubt accurately de-
scribed the site prior to the erection
of the castle. Variations in the name

Edinburgh from Craigmillar.

Craiginillar Castle — Its Historical Associations. 25

have occurred, as usual in such matters, from time
to time. Thus we find it referred to in ancient
documents as Cragmillar, Craigmillare, Cragmeloure,
Cragmelor, and Cragmulor. As to when or by whom
the castle was built history is, however, silent/ The
earliest record of Craigmillar is in 11 37- when David I.
gave to the Holy Trinity Church of Dunfermline, in
perpetual gift, some houses in Craigmillar, with several
acres of arable land. The next authentic notice of
Craigmillar is in 121 2, and is found in a charter of
mortification granted in the reign of Alexander II. by
William, son of Henricus de Craigmillar. In this
charter William gives " in pure and perpetual alms,
to the church and monastery of Dunfermline, a certain
toft of land in Craigmillar, in the southern part
thereof, which leads from the town of Nedrieff
[Niddry] to the church of Libberton, which Henricus
de Edmonstone holds of him." ^ Craigmillar after-

^ In ' Castellated Architecture of Scotland ' Messrs M'Gibbon
and Ross give their opinion that Craigmillar must have been built
in the fourteenth century.

■^ See ' Historical and Statistical Account of the Town and Parish
of Dunfermline,' by the Rev. Dr Chalmers, vol. ii. pp. 228, 229.

B 2

26 Craigmillar and its Environs.

wards became the property of John de Capella, of
whom Httle is known ; and from his family it passed in
1374 to that of the Prestons of Gorton, who were an
important family in Scotland at that time— Sir Symon
Preston having obtained from King Robert II. a charter
of the lands of " Cragmelor," in the county of Edin-
burgh, on the resignation of William de Capella. The
Prestons were possessors of Craigmillar for a period
of 300 years. Their name is derived from the barony
of Prestoun or Priest's town, now Gorton, on the
South Esk, Mid-Lothian. It may be of interest to
mention that Sir William de Preston, Knight, was
one of the barons of Scotland summoned to Norham
Castle by King Edward I., in the competition for the
crown betwixt Baliol and Bruce in 1291. On this
occasion a large number of the nobility and clergy
assembled to decide the question, on the Scottish
side of the Tweed, upon a large open plain called
Upsettlington, now included in the beautiful wooded
policies of Ladykirk. Mr David Beveridge, in
his ' Culross and Tulliallan,' states that Sir John de
Preston, Knight, was taken prisoner with David II.

Craigmillar Castle — Its Historical Associations. 27

at the Battle of Durham in 1346, and was confined
for a long time in the Tower of London. Sir John
obtained from David II. charters of the lands of
Gorton, and also of lands in Fife and Perthshire.
His son was the Symon de Preston already referred
to. Though there is some doubt as to who really
were Sir Symon's children, there is every reason to
believe that he was the father of George de Preston,
who, again, was the father of John Preston of Craig-
millar and Gorton, from whom the Prestons of
Craigmillar were descended. The Prestons of Valley-
field sprang from the same family, though the precise
period at which they branched off is a matter of
some dispute. As already mentioned, the Preston
Arms — a shield bearing the heads of three unicorns —
are found four times on the walls of Craigmillar.
The same emblem appears in St Giles' Cathedral,
William Preston being recognised as a benefactor of
that church. In the reign of James II. this William
Preston seems to have gone to France, and, with the
aid of King Charles VII. and other magnates, to have
obtained a precious relic — the arm-bone of St Giles.

Craigniillar and its Environs.

Returning to Scotland, he soon afterwards died,
bequeathing the celebrated relic to the Church of
Edinburgh ; and he was buried in the Lady Chapel
of St Giles'. The gift of Preston was received by the

'^v

% \

Pr?:ston Arms, with Supporters.

city with all due honour, and the Town Council came
under an obligation to his son to build the aisle to
his memory which still bears his name, and on
which his arms are engraved.

On August lo, 151 1, James IV. conceded to Simon

Craigmillar Castle — Its Historical Associations. 29

Preston of Preston, Knight, and to his heirs, " the
lands of Cragmelor, with their castle, fortalice, and
mill, and the patronage and donation of the chapel
founded in the lands of Cameron " ; and the King
incorporated all the same in the free barony of
Craigmillar. Again, on June 5, 1543, the Queen con-
ceded to Simon Preston, son and heir-apparent of
George Preston, and Janet, his spouse, the lands and
barony of Cragmelor, with castle, fortalice, and mill.
Sir Simon Preston was, on August 15, 1565, on the
representation of Queen Mary, made Lord Provost of
Edinburgh, but he afterwards broke awa)^ from his
allegiance, and it was in his house that the Queen
was lodged the night before she was carried to Loch-
leven. In Fountainhall's ' Historical Notices' (p. 189)
it is stated that on May 2, 1678, John Preston was
excluded by the Duke of Lauderdale from commission,
as one inchned to burn too many as witches. We
learn on the same authority (p. 200) that John Preston,
along with other three, were on commission to judge
seven who were defamed as witches in Loanhead.
Reverting to Craigmillar, it is perhaps worthy of

Craigmillar and its Environs.

note that the barony is held of the Crown in free
blench for payment of two pennies Scots — i.e., 2-i2ths
of a penny sterling — at Whitsunday yearly, at the
tower, fortalice, and manor place of Craigmillar, in
name of blench duty — if asked only. There is no

View from Craigmili^ar — Looking East.

reservation as to the giving up of the castle for a
royal residence, as has been asserted by some writers.
That it possesses all the natural features associated
with a royal residence is indisputable. Few sites in

Craigmillar Castle— Its Historical Associations. 31

any part of Scotland have such a commanding range
of country, ahke diversified and picturesque. Looking
in a southern and western direction, there is a view of
strath, gently sloping valley, and woodland, which roll
on until backed by high mountain ranges far beyond.
Towards the north, the fertile fields of Fifeshire meet
the eye, the " East Neuk " stretching away into the
German Ocean in the distance. Looking eastward,
there opens up such a charming prospect of land and
water, that the eye of the beholder never wearies in
gazing upon it. There is the blue gleaming ocean,
which washes the shore only a few miles from the
ancient castle, and stretches far away in the distance,
leaving North Berwick Law and the Bass Rock as
impressive landmarks ; while Aberlady Bay, fringed
with the green woodlands of Gosford, fill up the
picture. Such a landscape, viewed from Craigmillar
Castle on a beautiful spring morning, or a still
summer's eve, by the lover of nature, is one upon
which memory delights to dwell.

In 1477 Craigmillar was the scene of a curious state
tragedy. The Duke of Albany and the Earl of Mar

32 Craigiuillar and its Environs.

having been charged with conspiracy against their
brother, James IIL, the Duke was apprehended and
lodged in the Castle of Edinburgh, but he managed to
escape to a sloop which waited for him in the Forth to
take him to France. The Earl of Mar, however, was
less fortunate, and was imprisoned in Craigmillar.
Unlike King James, Albany and Mar were active and
warlike, displaying much of the chivalrous spirit of
their ancestors, and thus they became endeared to the
people. Pitscottie, in his description of their different
characters, says of James that he was "a man that
loved solitariness, and desired never to hear of warre."
On the other hand. Mar, he says, was " ain faire lustie
man of ain great and weill proportioned stature, weill
faced, and comillie in his behaviour, who was nothing
but nobilitie." Whether it was really a fact that the
conspiracy against the King was contemplated, or
whether it was only an idle report got up to frighten
James, and make him suspicious and jealous of his
brother, is uncertain. Some writers affirm that Mar
was privately beheaded, while others assert that he
was asked to choose his own mode of death, which

Craigmillar Castle — Its Historical Associations. 33

he did by preferring to be bled in a warm bath. On
the other hand, Drummond of Hawthornden states —
and he is supported by Tytler — that Mar, who was
very excitable, took fever and delirium, and was
removed by command of the King to a house in the
Canongate. There he was put under the care of the
King's physician, who relieved him in his fever by
opening a vein in the arm and neck. Whether from
weakness consequent on the loss of blood, or from
tearing his bandages off while in a fit of delirium, does
not seem clear, but Mar did not survive this attack.
The actual circumstances are to a great extent shrouded
in mystery. Dr John Hill Burton, in his excellent
' History of Scotland,' says : " We know only the fact
that the King dealt with both his brothers as a man
deals with his enemies. The younger. Mar, died sud-
denly— murdered, it was said — in Craigmillar Castle.
Those who desired to vindicate the King's name said
Mar had been bled to relieve him from fever, and that
the bleeding, being insufficiently stanched, had broken
out while he was in a bath, and so killed him."

That Craigmillar ever became a royal residence,

34 CraigJiiillar and its Environs.

there is not sufficient authority to affirm positively.
James V., however, being kept a prisoner in Edinburgh
Castle during his minority, was removed to Craigmillar
in 1 5 14, when the plague broke out in the city, to be
out of the way of infection. While there, he was
privileged to see his mother under certain restrictions?
through the kindness of his guardian, Lord Erskine.

Craigmillar was taken by the English invaders
under Hertford, and was partly demolished, a great
part of it being burned. John Knox, in his ' History
of the Reformation,' describing the entry of the
English army under the Earl of Hertford into Leith
in 1544, says: "Upon the Mononday the fyft of May,
came to thame from Berwick and the Bordour two
thousand horsemen, who, being somewhat reposed, the
army, upoun the Wedinesday, marched towards the
Toune of Edinburgh, spoyled and brynt the same,
and so did thei the Palace of Halirud-house. The
horsmen took the House of Craigmyllare, and gat
great spoyle therein; for it being judged the strongest
house near the Toune, other than the Castell of Edin-
burgh, all men sought to saif thare movables tharein.

Craigmillar Castle — Its Historical Associations. 35

But the stoutness of the Lorde gave it over without
schote of hacque-boote, and for his reward was caused
to march upoun his foote to Londoun. He is now
Capitane of Dunbar, and Provost of Edinburgh.
In the 'Diurnal of Occurrents ' we read: "The
Enghsh forces passed to Craigmillar, quhilk was
haistilie given to thame; promesed to keip the samyne
without skaith, quhilk promes thai brak, and brunt and
destroyit the said Hous." 1355512

It is, however, in the time of the young and beauti-
ful though unfortunate Mary Stuart that much of the
interest in Craigmillar centres. The presumption is
that it was chosen by her as a residence on account of
its delightful surroundings ; and being but a short dis-
tance from the Palace, she could easily travel between
the two places. The ground, too, was admirably
adapted for hunting, in which pastime Darnley and the
members of the royal household could indulge.

Shortly after the murder of Rizzio in 1566, on
account of which Darnley and Mary became much
estranged, the whole kingdom was curious to ascertain
what would be the next turn of events. We find the

36 Craigmillar and its Environs.

French Ambassador at the court of .Holyrood, Le
Croc, writing to the Archbishop of Glasgow in Decem-
ber of that year in the following terms: " The Queen
is for the present at Craigmillar, about a league distant
from the city. She is in the hands of the physicians,
and I do assure you is not at all well ; and I do
believe the principal part of her disease to consist
of a deep grief and sorrow — ^nor does it seem possible
to make her forget the same. Still she repeats these
words, ' I could wish to be dead.' We know very well
that the injury she received is exceeding great, and her
Majesty will never forget it. . . . To speak my mind
freely to you — but I beg you not to disclose what I say
in any place that may turn to my prejudice — I do
not expect upon several accounts any good understand-
ing between them, unless God effectually put to His
hand." In the same year Craigmillar was the scene
of a conference between Queen Mary and her nobles
regarding a proposed divorce from Darnley, but this
proposal for the time was overruled by her. The
conference was attended by Lethington, Argyll, and
Bothwell. The hrst-named was the spokesman on

Craigmillar Castle — Its Historical Associations. 37

that occasion, and the result is thus given in the words
of those who initiated the business : " Her grace
answerit, that under twa conditions she might under-
stand the same — the ane, that the divorcement were
made lawfully; the other, that it war not prejudice to
her son — otherwise her hyness would rather endure all
torments, and abyde the perils that might chance her
in her grace's lifetime." In Pitcairn's ' Criminal
Trials ' it is stated that four of those then present —
viz., Argyll, Huntly, Maitland, and Bothwell — along
with a cousin of the last, Sir James Balfour, signed
a bond to the following effect: "That forsaemickle it
was thought expedient and maist profitable for the
commonwealth, by the haill nobility and lords under
subscryvit, that sic ane young fool and proud tyrant
suld not reign or bear rule over them ; and that for
divers causes, therefore, they had all concluded that he
suld be put off by ane way or another — and whosoever
suld take the deed in hand, or do it, they suld defend
and fortify it as themselves.'" It was by the merest

' This passage from the bond was cited from memory by the
Laird of Ormiston, in his confession. See post, p. 39.

38 Craigmillav and its Environs.

chance that the walls of Craigmillar escaped being
stained with the blood of Darnley. In 1567, when
he returned from Glasgow ill with smallpox, before
determining to send him to the Kirk-of-Field, as
was afterwards done in order to keep infection
from the infant prince at Holyrood, a proposal was
mooted to lodge him in Craigmillar, that he might
have there the benefit of the pure air and the
warm bath, and so have a speedy recovery. In the
eyes of Darnley and his friends, as well as of others,
this seemed an ominous proposal, considering what
had befallen Mar in former days. The Queen seems
to have made the suggestion ; and as soon as it had
been proposed to Darnley, he sent for Craufurd, and,
relating the circumstances, requested that the whole
should be communicated to his father, the Earl of
Lennox. Craufurd, being asked his own opinion on
the proposal, said : " She treats your Majestic too
like a prisoner. Why should you not be taken to one
of your own houses in Edinburgh?" " It struck me
much the same," said Darnley. " Between us, I have
her promise only to trust to ; but I put myself in her

Craigmillar Castle — Its Historical Associations. 39

hands, and I will go with her though she murder me."
Whether Mary was cognisant of any plot to get rid of her
husband, or whether she simply advised him for his good,
is still a matter on which much diversity of opinion exists.
Bothwell, generally regarded as chief actor m the
plot, followed the Queen to Craigmillar after the
murder, and a few months later Mary accepted him as
her husband. From this fact many have concluded
that the Queen could not have been altogether ignorant
of the dark deed consummated at Kirk-of-Field. On
the other hand, it is recorded that the Laird of
Ormiston, who was convicted upwards of six years
after the murder of Darnley, made a confession to the
Rev. John Brand, during his last moments, while the
latter was trying to cheer him with the consolations
of religion. In this confession, already referred to, he
stated that Bothwell spoke to him on the subject of the
murder only two days before it was committed, and
that " he utterly refused to join the plot." Bothwell
also informed him that the bond had been drawn up
by Sir James Balfour, and signed a quarter of a year
before the deed was done. x\fter the murder, Ormiston

40 Craiginillar and its Environs,

said, Bothwell showed him a bond signed by four or
five names, which he assured him were those of Huntly,
Argyll, Maitland, and Sir James Balfour. In Birrel's
' Diary' (p. 14) we learn that "on 3d Jan. 1568, John
Hay of Talla, zounger, and John Hepburne of Bollone,
and ane Powrie, and ane Dalgleish, seruitors to ye
Earl of Bothwell, ver hangit and quartred, and their
bodies brunt for murther of ye King." The Regent
Morton was in June 1581 also tried and executed for
the murder of Darnley, fourteen years after the event.
Little is known of his trial, but he was found guilty of
being "art and part, foreknowledge and concealing of
the treasonable and unnatural murder" of the King.
The principal evidence produced was the testament of
Bothwell, who had died in Denmark in 1578. It is
therefore assumed that this deed contained matter im-
plicating Morton. We learn further from Pitcairn's
' Criminal Trials ' that John Binning, a servant of
Archibald Douglas, was also tried and convicted.
Before his death Binning not only confessed that
his master was concerned in the plot, but he also
accused John Maitland, Abbot of Coldingham,

Craigmillar Castle — Its Historical Associations. 41

brother of the Secretary, and Robert Balfour,
brother of Sir James, and owner of the house at
the Kirk -of- Field. For several . years after the
murder of Darnley no one was publicly charged
with the murder, except Bothwell and the Queen. In
course of time, however, when the nobles began to
quarrel among themselves. Regent Morton, Archibald
Douglas, Sir James Balfour — who was afterwards
President of the Court of Session — Maitland the
Secretary, Huntly the Chancellor, Argyll the Lord
Justice, and a number of others, were all charged as
being prominent actors in the tragedy; but nothing
was ever discovered which could incriminate Queen
Mary. Who the real culprits were it will perhaps be
impossible ever to say with certainty.

Returning once more to Craigmillar Castle, James
VL was the last royal personage who lived in or was
connected with it. From there he planned his matri-
monial tour to Denmark. In the declaration, written
by himself, of his reasons for his resolution to go to
Norway, and of his own sole and entire responsibility

for that resolution, with his narrative of what passed

c 2

42 Craigmillar and its Environs.

thereupon between him and his Councillors, he says :
" The place that I resolved this in was CraigmiUaire,
no ain of the haill counsale being present there." ^

After repeated insurrections of that turbulent
nobleman Francis Stewart, second Earl of Bothwell, in'
the reign of James VI., a battle was fought near
Craigmillar. On the 3d of April 1594, Bothwell and
Lord Ochiltree marched to Leith, accompanied by
four hundred valiant horsemen. The few noblemen
and gentlemen that were in Edinburgh, along with the
inhabitants of the town, armed themselves to assist the
King, and marched in order of battle towards Leith.
Bothwell, however, retreated by Restalrig to Dudding-
ston, so that it appeared' as if his intention was to flee.
He continued retreating by Niddrie Marischall up the
hill towards Woolmet. Thinking he had fled alto-
gether, the King commanded Lord Home, the Master
of Glammis, with their forces, and the guard of horse-
men and footmen, to follow Bothwell. In accordance
with these instructions, Bothwell was pursued to
Niddrie Green, where a consultation was held before

^ Register of the Privy Council of Scotland, vol. iv. p. 427.

Craigmillar Castle — Its Historical Associations. 43

the ascent to Woolmet. Here the forces were divided
into two companies, the first of which, the King's
Guard of Horsemen, was led by Lord Wemyss —
" a gentilman of gude experience in werefayre." In
the other company was Lord Home, the Master of

Woolmet.
Glammis, and a number of gentlemen. Three horse-
men were sent forward to reconnoitre before they
thought it expedient to pass up. On the three getting
near the top, Bothwell's ambuscade set upon them,
and they were compelled to return as fast as their

44 Craigmillar and its Environs.

horses could carry them. Then Bothwell followed
fiercely "with clamour and courage," so that within a
short time he compelled his pursuers to leave their
position and turn back. Bothwell continued the
pursuit for over a mile, and chased them near to
the place where the King and his company stood.
The footmen fled for fear to the castle of Craig-
millar. Bothwell's trumpet sounded a retreat "upon
a fayre ley feild " under Craigmillar in sight of the
King, and his host then retreated slowly back to
Woolmet. Few were slain at the conflict, but a
number were taken prisoners, and many hurt. The
prisoners were set free by Bothwell the same night. ^
Sir John Gilmour, son of John Gilmour, W.S., who
was admitted a member of the Faculty of Advocates in
1628, acquired the property of the Barony of Craig-
millar from the Prestons in 1660. He was four times
married; and from his third wife, Margaret, eldest
daughter of Sir Alexander Murray, Baronet of Black-
barony, in Peeblesshire, the present Captain Gilmour
is descended. Sir John received knighthood in 1650,
^ Cf. History of James the Sixth, p. 306.

Sir John Gilmour,

President of the Court of Session.

From an Original Picture painted by old Scoiigal, at

The Inch, near Edinburgh.

46 Craigmillar and its Environs.

and was elected M.P. for Mid-Lothian to the Padia-'
ment that met ist Jan. 1661, and to all the subsequent
Parliaments until his death. In the year 1661 he was
made President of the College of Justice, which office
he resigned in 1670. Sir John was a thorough con-
stitutionalist, and distinguished himself by opposing
many of the arbitrary measures of his sovereign.
Through his instrumentality a clause was obtained in
the Militia Act, that the kingdom should not be
obliged to maintain any force levied by the king with-
out the consent of Parliament. Other memories
reflect imperishable lustre on his name. When the
Marquis of Argyll was brought to trial, Sir John
argued with his brother judges that he could find
no proof against him but what the greater part of
the house were as deeply involved in as he was.
The Earl of Middleton replied that what Sir John
said was true, but that " the king may pitch upon
whom he pleased to make an example of." As a
privy councillor. Sir John refused to vote for the
capital punishment of the Covenanters who had
surrendered themselves on the promise of quarter

Craigmillar Castle — Its Historical Associations. 47

after the battle of Rullion Green. He counselled
mercy, but in vain, as Sharp, who presided at the
council, was so much inflamed with rage that he
overruled all the opposition and remonstrances of
Sir John. Eleven prisoners constituted the first
batch of victims. Little time was lost : they were
quickly found guilty, and ordered to be hanged at the
cross, and their heads and right arms to be cut off.

Sir John was said to be " most learned, though
unassisted with the aid of the civil law ; his own
natural endowments made him equally conversant in
the practice of the Scottish judicature as in that of the
Romans; he might be said rather to lay down the law
than to resolve questions in it; his clients consulted
him rather as a judge than an advocate; he prostrated
at his feet, as a second Hercules, the adverse parties
with his knotted club, unsmoothed by any art ; he was
eloquent without rhetoric, learned without literature." ^

Sir John altered and enlarged Craigmillar Castle
considerably, and in Chambers's ' History of Peebles-
shire ' it is stated that "in 1661 the Council of

^ Iconographia Scotica.

48 Craigmillar and its Environs.

Peebles ordains that all able horses in the town shall
carry in sklaitts from Stobo to the House of Craig-
millar belono^ing to Sir John Gilmour, President of the
Session; ilk person contravening under the pain of
5 pounds Scots." When it is taken into consideration
that in those days there were no roads, and that the
" sklaitts" had to be carried on the backs of horses a
distance of thirty miles, this civic ordinance must ap-
pear a hard one, more especially when it was to serve
one with whom the burgh had no concern. After a
life of unvaried integrity and great usefulness, Sir
John died in 1671, and his portrait is still carefully
treasured in The Inch House. He was succeeded by
his only surviving son. Sir Alexander Gilmour. Sir
Alexander was created a Baronet on ist February
1678 ; married the Hon. Grizel Ross, eldest daughter
of George, eleventh Lord Ross, — his name is found
in the Parliamentar}- records as one of the association
to protect King William against the plot for his
assassination by the papists, — and was elected M.P-
for Mid-Lothian in 1698. Dying in October 1731,
two children survived him — viz., Sir Charles Gilmour,

Craiginillar Castle — Its Historical Associations. 49

his heir, and a daughter, Helen, who married
WilHam Little of Liberton. Sir Charles Gilmour,
Baronet, married Jean Sinclair, daughter of Sir Robert
Sinclair of Longformacus, was elected M.P. for Mid-
Lothian in 1737, and continued to represent the
county till his death. He was also one of the
Lords of Trade and Plantations. He died at Mont-
pellier in 1750, and left one child. Sir Alexander
Gilmour, Baronet of Craigmillar, who was an officer in
the I St Foot Guards. Sir Alexander accompanied his
regiment to France, and was taken prisoner at St
Cas in September 1758. He was chosen M.P. for
Mid-Lothian in 1751, and continued to represent that
county till 1774. During that period he held various
official appointments under Government. He died in
France in 1792, and the Baronetcy and main line of
the family thus became extinct. The succession then
devolved on William Charles Little of Liberton, great-
grandson of the first Sir Alexander Gilmour, and
grandson of Sir Alexander's daughter, Helen Gilmour,
who, as before mentioned, had been married to
William Little of Liberton. Mr Little assumed in

50 Craiginillar and its Environs.

consequence the surname of Gilmour, and became also
of Craitj^millar. He married Jean Clerk, of the family
of Pennvcuick, and at his death in 1797 was succeeded
by his eldest son, Walter Little Gilmour of Liberton
and Crai^millar, who was an officer in the Army.
\\'alter married in 1805 James Anne Macdowall, heiress
of Canonmills, and died two years after, leaving a
dauo^hter, Jane, and a posthumous son, Walter James
Little Gilmour. Mr Little Gilmour's education was
begun at the Edinburoh High School and completed
at Oxford. He was blest with a good mother, whose
memory throughout life he never failed to cherish
with feelings of almost sacred admiration. At an
early age he manifested a great predilection for
athletic exercises and field-sports, and at hunting,
shooting, fishing, and golfing he was well known and
honoured as a model sportsman. He was in his
later years the oldest member of the Melton and
Caledonian hunts, and was the last survivor of the
grouj:) in the celebrated picture by the late Sir Francis
Grant, President of the Royal Academy, the " Melton
Breakfast." During his long career he was highly

Craiginillay Castle — Its Historical Associations. 51

respected as a man of undoubted honour and integrity.
His pleasing manners and amiable character earned for
him the sobriquet of " (jentle," by which he was always
addressed and spoken of by his friends. Though Mr
Gilmour never resided on his property after the death
of his mother, he always took a great interest in estate
affairs, and especially in places of historic and public
interest. In 1884, as already indicated, he, with great
public spirit, spent a large sum for the purpose of
preserving the ruins of Craigmillar Castle, which were
rapidly going to decay. Repairs were in addition,
though to a lesser extent, executed on the old Tower
at Upper Liberton. Mr Gilmour was of a retiring
disposition, and undemonstrative in his numerous acts
of kindness and generosity, but few were ever more
willing and ready to extend a helping hand to those
who were really deserving, or to advance any enterprise
which he was satisfied was for the public good. It
may be here mentioned that Mr Gilmour was one
of the "knights" present at the Eglinton tournament
in 1839.

Mr Gilmour was never married, and when he died

52 Craigmillar and its Environs.

in September 1887, the estates devolved upon Robert
Wolrige Gordon, grandson of his sister Jane, already
referred to.

Mr Wolrige Gordon is a son of Henry Wolrige
Gordon of Railhead and Esslemont, in Aberdeenshire,
and assumed the name of Gilmour on succeeding to
the Craigmillar property. He entered the army in
January 1878, was made Lieutenant on ist July
1881, and received a Captaincy on 23d July i8go.
He served in the Zulu War in 1879, and took part in
the engagements at Ulundi, for which he received the
medal and clasp. He also served in the Nile expedi-
tions in 1884-85 with the Guards Camel Regiment,
and was present in the actions at Abu Klea and Abu
Kru, for which he was honoured with a medal with
two clasps and the Khedive's star. On 19th October
1889 Captain Gilmour married Lady Susan Lygon,
second daughter of the late Earl Beauchamp of
Madresfield Court, Worcestershire. Like his prede-
cessor, he takes a great interest in the preservation of
edifices of historic importance.

At what period Craigmillar was last tenanted does

Captain Gordon Gii,mour.

Craiginillar Castle — Its Historical Associations. 53

not seem to be recorded, but Miss Warrender, in
her admirable little book, ' Walks Near Edinburgh,'
states that " till well into the eighteenth century
two old ladies, daughters of Sir John Gilmour, lived
there." It is stated elsewhere that at the close of
the eighteenth century a part of the Castle was habit-
able, and occupied by a farmer/

^ See Grose's Antiquities of Scotland, vol. i. p. 51.

The Gii.mour Ckks'j

54 Craif^uiiUay and its Environs.

III.

The representatives of our British fauna present in
the environs of Crai,<^millar differ httle from those
ft)und in most parts of the Lowlands of Scotland.
It is f^ratifying to learn, however, that the Badger,
one of the scarcest of British wild creatures, is still
to be seen within a mile of the castle ruins. We
are inclined to think that this animal was for many
years extinct in Mid-Lothian, and that through the
accidental circumstance of a gravid female escaping
from the kennels at The Inch, in the spring of 1883,
they were again introduced to the district. So
soon as it was discovered that badgers had been
seen at Edmonstone, the proprietor, Sir John Don
Wauchope, gave orders for their strict preservation.

Tlic Fauna.

Twice have they been known to breed there in recent
years, and the thanks of all true naturalists are due
to Sir John for his protective measures, despite the
destruction caused by them to rabbits and other
oame. It is to be retrretted, however, that these

The Badger.

animals still suffer persecution ; and, though contrary
to the proprietor's wishes, two were w^antonly killed
on the Edmonstone property in the spring of i8gi.

Otters, though rare, are also to be found in the
district. Twenty years ago they regularly frequented

56 Cvaif^iniUav and its Environs.

the policies of Duddin«jston ; but in consequence of
the rapid extension of Edinbur«;h to the south, the
Braid Burn became polluted by the sewage, when
trout disappeared, and along with them the otters.
Some years since the town was interdicted from
permitting sewage to pass into the brook, and a sewer
was then built to convey it to the sea. From that
time the brook has become practically pure, so that
a few fish are now to be seen, and it is hoped that the
otter may return to its former haunts. On the brook
to the south of the castle which separates the Craig-
millar property from that of Edmonstone, and which
flows through the policies of Niddrie, otters have also
been seen. A female otter and Ave cubs were observed
from the drawing-room window of Niddrie House one
summer evening, travelling up the side of the brook
which flows close by. Securing pokers, some of the
servants started on an otter hunt, and the water being
shallow at the place, they succeeded in killing three
of the cubs, which are to be seen, stuffed, in Niddrie
House.

The Fox is frequently found in the district, and

The Fauna. 57

so long as fox-hunting is regarded as a popular pas-
time, there is little fear of this animal becoming
extinct. Fifty years ago Craigmillar was a favourite
"meet" of the Duke of Buccleuch's hounds. The
following account of a " run " was described to us by
Sir John Don Wauchope, who was present. The
hounds were advertised to meet at Craigmillar, and
a fine morning brought out a large "field." Riding
southwards, the hounds were thrown into the meadow
between the Little France brooks, which at that time
was an osier-bed, and a sure find for a fox. Reynard
broke to the north, followed by a large number of the
pack, and ran up the field in full view of every one
present. Entering the wood east of the castle, which
at that time contained a strong growth of whin and
broom, constituting excellent cover, the fox lodged
for a considerable time. The remainder of the pack
getting up, the wood was made too hot for Reynard,
and again he broke, running north by Duddingston,
the hounds following in full cry. After skirting the
shore of the loch, the fox ascended the eastern slope

of Arthur's Seat, and ran to ground in a hole near the

D 2

58 Craigmillar and its Environs.

summit, which had not been previously known to any
member of the hunt. It must have been an interest-
in(j; sight to see the "field" toiling up the steep face
of the hill.

The Hedgehog is found in considerable numbers
in the district. This animal possesses a greater
amount of shrewdness than most people give him
credit for. It is not generally known that he climbs
trees — ^at least, so far as we are aware, this has never
yet been well authenticated. From observations made
while keeping one in a walled garden, it has been
discovered that hedgehogs undoubtedl}' climb trees ;
and from the circumstance of findin^j eggshells at the
bottom, they evidently rob nests in bushes as well
as on the ground. If one is confined in a garden
where fruit-trees are against the wall, he is almost
certain to effect his escape. We have known them
to get out of one garden in this manner and find
their way into another adjoining, where they were de-
tained prisoners owing to there being no fruit-trees in
it to facilitate their climbing. Hedgehogs are easily
tamed, and make interesting pets, being exceedingly

The Fauna. 59

active in running about a house. When cold weather
sets in they hide themselves, and hibernate, according
to hereditary habit, in any secluded corner where they
are not likely to be disturbed. We have known one
thus lost in a garret for a couple of months ; and it
was only when the weather became mild that he was
heard running about, and so discovered.

The Mole is found here, as he is found generally
throughout Scotland. With the exception of proving
himself a troublesome neighbour to farmers, by throw-
ing up earth and thereby destroying grass and grain
crops, he is a most inoffensive creature. He is, more-
over, not without some actual redeeming points, as
nature has given him a commission to kill and keep
down worms and beetles that might be otherwise pre-
judicial. He does not hibernate like the hedgehog,
but his excursions are less frequent during winter.
There are few if any animals more sensitive to vibra-
tion than the mole.

Stoats and Weasels — the latter in considerable
numbers — are still to be found in the district. In
the spring and summer of 1888 we collected five

6o Cvaiginillar and its Enviiyus.

hundred of these animaLs to transport to New Zealand,
in order to form a natural check to the rabbits which
are there increasing in inordinate numbers. While
they were forwarded from all parts of Scotland, a few
were taken from the environs of Craigmillar. Thoug;h,
as indicated, stoats are rarer than weasels, still they
are by no means extinct. Stoats are easily known
from weasels by being larger, and from their black-
tipped tails. In winter they change their coat from
its normal brown colour to one of snowy whiteness,
with the exception of the black tip on the tail.
Weasels, on the other hand, never change their
colour. Stoat skins form the valuable ermine fur of
commerce, worn by royalty and the judges of our
law-courts, and the animal is therefore also known as
the ermine weasel. It is a notable fact, however, that
stoats in this country have fur much inferior to those
of Siberia or other northern regions, the fur of the
British stoat having neither their thickness nor the
same beautiful snowy whiteness. So recently as last
year, when shooting in a field near Craigmillar, we
noticed a stoat running in and out of an old stone

The Fauna. 6i

wall, where he appeared to be amusing himself. To
our surprise he was shortly thereafter seen about a
hundred yards in advance, posting up the side of the
wall with great speed. Knowing that the stoat had
observed nothing to make him apprehensive of danger,
we were curious to discover the motive by which he
was impelled. Following in pursuit, it was inter-
esting to observe that he occasionally raised his head
in the air, as if attracted by the scent of prey. Having
apparently measured his distance, he again pressed
forward with increasing speed, as if forced on by some
overpowering instinct. Although hitherto familiar
with the movements of the stoat, we were not pre-
pared for the alacrity with which he kept in advance.
Latterly he seemed to become desperate with excite-
ment, when a brood of partridges ran screaming from
the side of the old stone fence right across the
field. This movement on the part of the partridges
appeared to surprise and disconcert the stoat, who
halted as if in a difficulty as to his future action.
Being by this time fairly within shot — as, in his
anxiety to get among his prey, he was oblivious of

62 Cvaigmillar and its Environs,

our having been in pursuit — we fired, but immediately
regretted doing so, as it would have been interesting
to see how he would have met the unexpected con-
tingency.

Squirrels are also to be found in the district,
though, in the absence of pine woods, they are by no
means plentiful.

Bats are numerous, but only three varieties — the
common, the long-eared, and Daubenton's bat — are
to be found in this locality. Some years ago, on
looking into a hole in a very large ash-tree at The
Inch, we discovered a cavity in the trunk of consider-
able size, the result of decay. A great number — if
not hundreds, certainly many dozens — of bats, from
a day old to adult size, were hanging by the hooked
claws on their wings to the soft rotten wood which
constituted the roof and sides of the cavity. Pocket-
ing a few of the largest of them, we proceeded to hand
them over to Mr Hope, naturalist, Edinburgh, but
found, ere his premises were reached, that one of them
had produced a family of five young. On the follow-
ing day another one produced seven young. It was

The Fauna.

amusing to watch the Httle ones being suckled, and
to mark the eagerness which they displayed in hanging

LONG-EARKD AND DaUBENTON'S BaTS.

on to the nipples of the breasts. They turned out to
be Daubenton's bat, which had not been previously

64 CraigiuiUar and its Environs.

recorded in Mid-Lothian. Some of them may now be
seen in the Edinburgh Museum of Science and Art.

Of Rodents there are the usual kinds, including
hares, rabbits, voles, mice, shrews, &c. As a conse-
quence of the extension of the town, the two first-
mentioned are becoming scarce.

Hares. — Up till very recently Craigmillar was a
favourite " meet" of the Mid-Lothian Harriers. From
its elevated position, the top of the castle was a chosen
resort of those interested in seeing the chase, and from
it we once had an admirable opportunity of observing
the marvellous instinct of the hare in doubling back
on her track to throw the dogs off the scent. The
chase had lasted some time when we descried the hare,
a long distance in advance of the hounds, come into
the field north of the castle. " Puss " galloped up the
centre of the field, then suddenly stopped, sat up, and
for a second listened with pricked ears to the distant
"full cry" of the hounds. Instantly she wheeled
round, and galloped back for a couple of hundred
yards, exactly where she had come up ; then, with a
great bound to the side, she struck off at a right angle

Tlic Fauna. 6s

down wind, and speedily disappeared from view.
Turning to observe the hounds and riders, we
wondered if they would discover the manoeuvre, or
follow up to where the hare had doubled. We were
not kept long in suspense, for, on the hounds getting
through the hedge, they took up the double scent,
giving tongue as if vying with each other which should
be loudest. A number of ladies and gentlemen came
galloping up, evidently enjoying the sport. In an
instant the music of the hounds had ceased, horses were
suddenly pulled up, and disorder and disappointment
ensued. Must it be confessed that we ran down
from the top of the castle and betrayed the secret of
poor " Puss," which conscience whispered should
have been kept sacred ! Again the hounds were " full
cry" on the trail, and we returned to the top of the
castle to watch the remainder of the hunt. Several
checks were made, and the hounds seemed baffled ;
but, unfortunately for the hare, some of the "held"
or an onlooker would )'ell out a "tally-ho," and the
chase continued. The instinct and cunning dis-
played by "Puss" were therefore of no avail; and

65 Craiginillar and its Environs.

strugglint^ up the furrow of a ploughed field, the
hounds "from scent to view" speedily terminated
the chase.

Rats are exceptionally numerous in the environs
of Craigmillar, and, from the revolution which has
taken place in their haunts and habits by burrowing
out in the fields, and the consequent loss to the
farmer, they are now regarded as a modern plague.
On the Craigmillar irrigation-farm, which lies between
the castle and the city, rats are found in great
numbers, living on the garbage which comes down the
sewers, thus acting the part of the " scavengers of
nature." The sewage is turned on to overflow a part
of the meadow every day, three weeks being required
to irrigate the entire area. With all their shrewdness
and foresight, rats do not seem to anticipate the
periodical inundation of the meadow, as they burrow,
and sometimes breed, on the banks of the runnels.
Last summer, while the sewage was being turned
on from one part to another, we watched it first
coming down the main carrier, then branching into,
and commencing to trickle slowly down, the smaller

The Fauna. 67

ones. In the runnel near where we stood, a rat, dis-
covering the water getting into her burrow, came out
with something in her mouth, ran five or six yards, and
then deposited her burden on a high part of the bank.
She immediately returned to the burrow, and six times
repeated the manoeuvre. How many more times she
intended returning must remain a mystery, as our two
terriers, who regard the meadows as their " happy
hunting-ground," and who had been rat-catching at
some distance, came running up, as soon as they espied
the rat. Her only refuge was in the burrow, but the
ever-increasing volume of water caused her to bolt,
when she was immediately seized and destroyed. It
was then discovered that the rat had been engaged
in carrying out her young, with the evident intention
of conveying them to a place of safety, — a wonderful
exhibition of the instinct and natural affection im-
planted within the breast of the much despised and
persecuted rat.

The Vole. — Both the field vole and the water vole
are to be found in the Craigmillar district, the latter
frequenting the neighbouring brooks in large numbers.

Crai^i^iiiiUar and its Environs.

The field vole is one of the most productive of this
tribe of animals, and not unfrequently becomes a most
destructive pest to the farmer. Unlike most animals
of this species, they appear, strangely enough, to thrive

Voles.

best in wet seasons, and on damp soil. About fifteen
years ago the farmers in the pastoral districts of Sel-
kirkshire had a visitation of this plague. Like the
locusts of Egypt, whole mountain-sides and pastoral
glens were literally covered with countless numbers of

The Fauna. 6g

these creatures. So destructive were they to the
vef^etation, that the grass was completely eaten up
and destroyed, and tiocks of sheep had to be re-
moved from certain districts l^ecause of the absence
of food. In i8gi a similar visitation was experienced
in Selkirkshire and adjacent counties, notably Dum-
friesshire, Roxburghshire, and East Lothian. The
extent to which this modern plague was experienced,
because of their incalculable numbers and destructive
habits, may be imagined on perusing the following
well-authenticated testimon}' of shepherds and other
reliable persons upon the spot. " The vermin have,"
says one informant, " multiplied greatly during the
summer, and they now swarm in numbers which
defy computation. To speak of them as in
thousands, gives no idea of them." Another says :
"It is impossible to speak too strongly about
the plague, and unless one was to go over the
ground, he could form no adequate conception
of it." On certain farms which he specifies,
this correspondent says, " they are simply legion."
Another writes: "Nobody ever saw anything the

70 Cvaigiuillar and its Environs.

least like it." It was remarked that the vermin did
not live on the lea grasses, or dry hillsides ; the grassy
bogs and white bent w^ere the places where they
abounded most. Wherever the ground was what
the shepherds speak of as " not bare," there
they swarmed in greatest numbers. "They nibble
and gnaw the long grass close to the ground, and the
land is rendered altogether valueless for winter and
spring feeding." Speaking of Eskdalemuir, another
correspondent says: "The bog land on some of the
farms is nearly ruined. Only a few sprat stalks stand
here and there, but all the grass in the bottom, on
which the sheep depend for winter food, is destroyed.
Hundreds of acres of the best pasture land on
many farms have thus for the present been totally
destroyed, and whole hill-sides wear a blasted and
desolate aspect, the ground being perfectly riddled
by their holes and runs."

It is an interesting fact, but one which all Well-
informed naturalists will readily anticipate, that owls
and kestrels increased greatly all over the infested
region. One informant mentions that in his locality

The Fauna. 71

the latter "are as plentiful as crows, and in such an
emero^ency all are gladly welcomed." To such an
intolerable extent had this plague grown, that, among
other expedients resorted to, cats were collected and
let loose in large numbers, with the view of its abate-
ment. In one district no fewer than upwards of fifty
were turned adrift where there was shelter of whin
and broom for them, but without any perceptible
result,

The Shrew, the Lesser Shrew, the Long-tailed
Field Mouse, and the Common Mouse, Mus miiscii-
lits, are to be found in the Craigmillar district, as
elsewhere.

Reptiles are represented in this locality by the
blind-worm or slow-worm. In Leslie's ' Historic of
Scotland,' the following passage occurs regarding the
finding of two " scorpiouns " at Craigmillar Castle in
the beginning of the sixteenth century. The historian
says : " In the zaird of Craigmiller besyd Ed*" war fund
tua scorpiouns, ane lyueng, the vther deid : quhilk
scotismen held for sum foirtakneng nocht gude, feiret
mony and ferliet, because in Brittannie was neuir a

Craic^inillay and its Environs.

Scorpioun seine afore." ^ This passage throws a lurid
hght on the creduhty and superstition of the age —
characteristics which, we fear, are not altogether
extinct even in this more enlightened nineteenth
century, now rounding to its close. In all probability
the " scorpiouns " which caused such widespread
terror at that time were harmless creatures — possibl}'
the innocent blind-worm. Yet this incident seems
to have been thought of sufficient importance to be
noticed by another historian of that period in almost
identical terms, namely, by Holinshed, in his well-
known ' Chronicle.' This leads us to say that the
blind-worm [Angiiis fragilis) is found on the Braid
Hills, as well as in many other parts of the countr}- ;
and a specimen from the Braids was exhibited lately
at a meeting of the Edinburgh Field Naturalists'
Society. It is a perfectly harmless creature, its diet
consisting of snails, worms, insects, cS:c., and it cannot
even pierce the skin of a human being. From the
fact of the muscles of its tail becoming stiffened to

^ Leslie's ' Historie of Scotland ' (Scottish Text Society ed.), Part
111., p. 132-

The Fauna. 73

such a degree, when the animal is alarmed, that the
tail actually breaks off when seized by any one, it has
received the specific name oi fragilis.

Lizards. — While these creatures cannot be re-
garded as plentiful in this locality, they are by no
means uncommon. We have frequently discovered
them, on dissection of predatory birds, and notably
magpies, doubled up in the gizzards.

Referring to the Amphibia, we may mention at the

outset that the Newt and Frog may both be included

in the bill of fare of birds, wild ducks and herons

especially. Frogs and newts are plentiful in the

ponds on the Braid Hills, as well as at Dunsappie,

Duddingston, &c. To our mind, there are few pets

more interesting than newts. The male is easily

known, at least in the breeding season, from the crest

down the entire length of his back, as well as from

his more brilliant colours. Transfer a worm into

a glass globe beside a pair of newts, and as a rule

each will seize an end and devour it till they come

to close quarters, when a "tug of war" is almost

certain to ensue. How they twist and wriggle round

E 2

74 Craigmillar and its Environs.

each other, both determined not to give way, till the
difficulty is settled by the worm breaking asunder ! If
facilities are afforded them, newts will lay their eggs
in captivity, which they do generally in April. The
eggs do not adhere together, like the spawn of frogs,
but each is deposited separately on a leaf and folded
up by the mother. In due course the young newt
issues from the egg, and, after passing through its
various stages, reaches at length adult size. In
keeping newts in confinement, care should be taken
that an island formed by a stone or something similar
be placed in the water, in order that they may have
facilities afforded them for crawling to " land," which
they readily take advantage of The " island " must be
in the centre, for if near the side they will speedily take
their departure. Such was our experience when a
dozen splendid specimens bade us good-bye in the
summer of i8gi. Awakened early by the screaming
of a servant-maid, we hurried to the kitchen, thinking
burglars had effected an entrance, and were not a little
amused to discover that the alarm was caused by a
couple of newts crawling about the kitchen-floor. So

A Group ok Newts.

The Fauna. 75

terrified was the girl that, some hours after, her eye
imperfectly caught sight of a clipping of black cloth
in a corner, when she immediately screamed at the
pitch of her voice and made for the door, declaring
she would not stay in the house beside these " horrid
brutes."

What has just been recommended regarding newts
is equally applicable to frogs, namely, the rearing of
them from the spawn until they reach some degree
of maturity. No more interesting lesson in natural
history could be found than in watching the various
stages through which these animals pass — from the
fish-like tadpole, with external gills, to the perfect
lung-breathing animal. Of the longevity of frogs it
is difficult to speak with any degree of certainty, it
being always unsafe to rest any theory upon experi-
ments which dissociate animals from their natural
environment and place them under surveillance in
captivity. A case is known of one living for eight
years in confinement, when it came to an untimely
end. In their native habitat frogs have many enemies,
— foxes, otters, and snakes devouring them with great

76 Craigmillar and its Environs.

gusto ; and, as already indicated, wild ducks and
herons have a predilection for such dainties. Even
when beyond the reach of these enemies, the life of
a frog is a hazardous one, as fish, especially pike and
trout, devour them greedily. We have seen a large
Salmo ferox landed with a net in Loch Garry, in the
stomach of which there were discovered five adult
frogs. These big fish are most shy to tempt with
a line ; but taking the hint from the one just men-
tioned, we secured a frog, tied a double hook along his
back by a thread round the armpits, and fixed it to
eight or ten yards of line, on the end of which was
a distended bladder. Putting out the frog in the
centre of the loch, he was set ofi" to "paddle his own
canoe." The bladder drifted slowly before the wind,
while we watched with interest for a considerable
time, but saw nothing to indicate that the frog had
been interfered with. Commencing to fish with the
rod, we succeeded in securing some fine trout, but
occasionally turned to watch the white bladder, now
a long distance off, floating on the level surface of the
lake. When quite a mile and a half distant, we

The Fauna. jj

discovered, on looking up, that the bladder had dis-
appeared. Calling Angus the boatman's attention to
the circumstance, we by-and-by saw it appear on the
surface. Winding up the line, and seizing an oar
each, we rowed rapidly down the lake. By the time
the place was reached, the difficulty in dragging the
bladder below the surface had so tired out the fish
that it was a simple matter to cut the line from the
bladder and secure it to the one on our rod. x\fter
rowing to the shore, a splendid specimen of the Salmo
ferox, fourteen pounds in weight, was landed.

The Common Toad is also found in the district.
It is often kept by gardeners, being extremely useful
in killing insects in greenhouses and garden frames.
Like the frog, it passes the winter in a dormant state ;
and several cases are known of its living for a number
of years. Pennant, in his 'British Zoology,' mentions
a tame toad that lived for more than forty years, when
it was killed by a raven. The stories current of toads
living for centuries embedded in blocks of stone may
safely be consigned to the region of myth.

The amount of ignorance which in this " en-

78 CraiginiUar and its Environs.

lightened age " prevails in many parts of the country
regarding newts, frogs, and other amphibious animals,
which are amongst the most innocent and inoffensive
of God's creatures, is most remarkable. In rural
districts it is quite common to find boys, and even
grown-up people, destroying them wherever and when-
ever an opportunity presents itself, having been
brought up in the belief that they are "poisonous."
It might be well if School Boards would introduce
small aquariums into our schools, in order that children
could have opportunities afforded them of studying the
life-history of such interesting creatures as the frog, the
toad, and the newt.

A few words regarding the Fish to be found in the
locality may fittingly close this chapter. Fish are
naturally scarce in the environs of Craigmillar, in
consequence of the absence of any appreciable extent
of unpolluted water. Trout are found in the Braid
Burn, and the brook south of the castle used to be
the habitat of a considerable number ; but the pollu-
tion from oil and shale works has practically destroyed
them. Duddingston Loch contains pike, perch, and

The Fauna. 79

eels, but we have never known any of a large
size. Nine pounds is the heaviest pike we have ever
killed in it. Minnows and sticklebacks are found in
the Braid Burn, and the latter are also present in the
ponds on the Braid Hills. Sticklebacks make interest-
ing pets, and we have had them in confinement for
over four years at a time. They are very pugnacious,
frequently attacking each other when first put together
in the same vessel. They also make savage onsets
upon any new comer to their private domain ; and
we have hit on the plan of separating the stranger
from them, at first, by the introduction of a sheet of
glass, until they become familiar with the presence
of the intruder.

8o Crais'inillay and its Environs.

lU.

Having already given a description of the mammal-
ian fauna, this work would be incomplete without a
reference to the aquatic fowl and game birds of the
district, and to those beautiful and inimitable songsters
that enliven our woods and afford interest to our walks,
shutting out solitude by the sweetness of their song.
Notwithstanding its proximity to a large city, few.
districts have a richer variety of bird life than the
environs of Craigmillar ; and as a list of these birds
may not be uninteresting, we here submit the follow-
ing to our readers, commenting on each in turn.

The Mallard Duck is very plentiful. Being
nocturnal in its habits, it is seldom seen in so thickly
populated a district during the day, but at night large

The Avifauna. 8i

numbers frequent the brooks, the irrifyated meadows,
and Duddingston Loch. Notwithstanding their shy-
ness, mallard soon become accustomed to any noise
that does not threaten danger to them. We have
frequently flushed them in the Braid burn at night
close to a railway bridge where trains were thundering
past every few minutes. Mallard are easily tamed
when reared from the egg; and we have known them,
when eight months old, walk fearlessly into a hen-house
and drop their eggs.

The Widgeon is a rare visitor to this district.
Three years ago at Duddingston Loch we discovered
a brace of widgeon feeding within shot of the shore,
but at a place where there was little cover. The
stalking of them was no easy matter. Anxious to
acquire them for our collection, we wriggled like a
serpent among the mud till within range, when we
fired and brought them both down at a shot. The
female was only winged, and, in spite of our best
efforts to capture her, could not be secured, but the
male was a splendid specimen.

The Teal, though one of the commonest of ducks,

Craii^millar and its Envivons.

is hv no means plentiful here. We have occasionally
shot them in Duddinc^ston Loch, in the Braid burn,
and in Little h>ance brook.

The Loncx-Tailed Duck rarely comes inland, but

once we succeeded
in shootinjj^ an im-
mature female on
Duddingston Loch.
The Pochard is
very common, and
ever}' year a good

Long-Tailed Dick. ^^^^^ ^^^ bagged at

Duddingston Loch. This bird is supposed by some
to be delicious — the iiesh, it is asserted, resembling
that of the celebrated "Canvas-back"; but, in our
opinion, it is not to be compared to the mallard,
teal, or widgeon.

The Tufted Duck is plentiful, and, except at
breeding-time, a Hock of them may be almost con-
stantly seen on Duddingston Loch. An Edinburgh
naturalist lately kept a pair of them as pets, which
were ver}' tame, and ate from his hand. They were

The Avifauna. 83

hatched and reared by a small decoy duck. Tufted
ducks occasionally breed in confinement.

Golden-Eye Duck are occasionally found, but not
nearly in such numbers as they were some years a^o.
Old drakes are wide awake, and generally contrive to
take care of themselves. Only once have we suc-
ceeded in securin<( one, thouj^h females and young
birds are easily and frequently bagged.

The Scaup Duck is a common visitor in the
spring months, large numbers frequenting Dudding-
ston. They resemble the pochard, with this excep-
tion, that their heads and necks are black instead
of brown.

The Moor-hen, or Water-hen as it is commonly
called, is very numerous at the loch referred to. The
same remark applies to the Coot. Both are ex-
tremely interesting birds.

The Quail, though no doubt rare, is occasionally
found in the district. When partridge-shooting a few
years ago in a turnip-field, the dog made a dead
point, and a covey of seven (juail rose on our
approach.

Cvai^inillar and its Environs.

The Water-Ousel is a most interesting bird, and
is well known on all the streams in the neighbourhood.
We are of opinion that it should be included in the
singing class, as its low sweet note is frequently

heard, even
when the
brooks are
almost co-
vered with
ice.

The King-
fisher, the
most beau-
tiful of all
our British
birds, is b}^
no means

uncommon near Craigmillar. They regularly frequent
the Braid burn, and are strictly preserved by the
proprietor. Last year we kept one in a cage, which
was the most tame and interesting pet we ever had.
It appeared to have no fear, and would sit on our

The Avifauna.

finger in the presence of strangers with an air of the

greatest unconcern. Nothing pleased us more than to

see it fishing. Putting _

some hve minnows

or sticklebacks in a

plate among water,

it would dart down,

quickly secure its

prey, and before

swallowing would kill

it by beating it

against the side of

the plate, according The pet kingfisher.

to hereditary habit. Like most pets, this bird came

to an untimely end.

The Curlew is seldom seen in the district, but
while sitting on the wall of Craigmillar Castle some
years ago, seven curlews flew over our head, when a
gentleman fired and brought one down — an old cock,
and a splendid specimen. Once or twice they have
been seen on the irrigated meadows here.

The Barn Owl is frequently seen at Craigmillar.

Craiginillar and its Environs.

Two years ago a farm-servant caught one sleeping in
a field near the castle. Getting possession of it, we
kept it in a kennel, where we made some experiments
by shutting a live rat in beside it. It usually sat on
a high shelf, and as the rat remained on the floor,

the two did
not inter-
fere with
each other.
We were for
a long time
of the opin-
ion that the
owl never
flew to the
Thk barn owi. ground, but

in this we had been mistaken, for shutting a badger
in beside them, both rat and owl found their way
into his capacious maw, much to our regret.

The Tawny Owl is plentiful in the locality, and
at certain seasons their eerie cries may be heard
in all the woods surrounding Craigmillar. Though

TJic Avifauna. 87

generally regarded as nocturnal in their habits, owls,
when pressed by the cares of providing for a hungry
brood, frequently commence to hunt for prey early
in the afternoon. In the summer of 1891 we took
three young tawny owls from the nest, and confined
them in a box, with the view of discovering what
kind of food the parent birds would bring to them.
We found that young rabbits, mice, blackbirds,
thrushes, chaffinches, yellowhammers, sparrows, and
other small birds, were included in their bill of fare.
It is dangerous for children to go near a nest con-
taining young owls, numerous instances being recorded
of the parent birds attacking and lacerating the body of
the intruder. While out one evening in the gloaming
with the object of shooting a few rats for some pet
kestrels, we passed the box where the young owls
were confined. After a few defiant threatenings from
different trees, the male bird flew to attack us, making
straight for the face. When within eight or ten feet,
he seemed so resolute in his purpose that we threw
the gun hurriedly upwards and backwards with the
view of scaring or striking him, and protecting our face

88 Craigmillar and its Environs.

should he persist in his attack. Unfortunately, at that
moment the female was approaching from behind,
and as the gun was thrown quickly backwards, prior
to bringing it down to strike the male, it met the
female with such violence that it knocked her to the
ground. She was only stunned, however, and quickly
getting up, flew on to an adjoining tree. From the
number of feathers on the ground and adhering to
the muzzle of the gun, she must have been badly in-
jured. For two days she was not once seen, but on the
third day we were pleased to see her return to watch
over her imprisoned progeny. The male bird did
not actually touch our face, but being beaten off, he
flew up into a tree overhead, and carefully scrutinised
our proceedings.

The Short-eared Owl, though rare, we have more
than once flushed in turnip - fields when partridge-
shooting. Though a few remain in this country
the entire year, by far the greater number are
migratory.

The Long-eared Owl, though the commonest of
the species, is rare around Craigmillar. In the spring

Tlic Avifauna. 89

of i8gi we brought a young brood from Abington, in
Lanarkshire, and after keeping them till fully matured,
gave them their liberty.

The Carrion Crow, though no doubt rare, is
found in the district. A pair make their nest every
year in the policies of Prestonfield. The Grey Crow
is seldom seen, but we have twice shot one in the
Craigmillar woods. The Rook, as in most parts of
the country, is plentiful at Craigmillar. A number
of rookeries exist within a mile of the castle. We
have known a pair of rooks build their nest on a
chimney of the Inch House.

Jackdaws are numerous, as, with the exception of
boys at nesting-time, few people care to molest them
in this district. A number breed in the castle ruins.
Though not often seen, albinos are yet occasionally
met with. A naturalist of our acquaintance has a
pair, the one pure white and the other buff-coloured,
taken from the same nest last year.

The Heron is by no means rare, and may fre-
quently be seen in the brooks south of the castle. At
dusk it may also be observed winging its way towards

Craiginillar and its Environs.

Duddingston to fish for perch, with which the loch
abounds.

The Cuckoo visits Craigmillar, as it does most
parts of Scotland, its arrival being welcomed as the

harbinger of
spring. In
1888 we
were inter-
ested to ob-
serve that
these birds
were e x-
I ceptionally
n umerous
that season,

as many as twenty being seen flying about at one time.
Prompted by a desire to discover the cause of their
increase, we shot one, and on dissection found the
gizzard full of green caterpillars. As a large number
of gooseberry bushes in an adjoining market-garden
seemed blighted, we noticed on examining them
that the leaves were being eaten by the grubs re-

CUCKOO FED BY A WaGXAIL.

The Avifauna. 91

ferred to. Watching with interest for eight or ten days,
we observed the caterpillars gradually became scarcer,
and the cuckoos shortly afterwards disappeared.

A friend, while botanising around Cobbinshaw
Loch, discovered a young cuckoo, not quite fledged,
in a wagtail's nest. Thinking to make a pet of it, he
put it in his pocket \yith the intention of taking it
home. Having some time to wait for a train, he
turned up stones in search of insects, which he
transferred into the gaping mouth of the cuckoo. It
seemed insatiable, and before the arrival of the train
he felt he had made a mistake in removing it from the
nest, as to provide a sufficient number of insects to
satisfy the bird seemed an impossibility. Anxious
now to get rid of it, he, on reaching Edinburgh,
handed it over to Mr Dewar, naturalist, St Patrick
Square. That gentleman fed it exclusively with
pease-brose, made with boiling water, and formed with
the finger and thumb into oblong pellets, putting them
into the bird's mouth when it gaped, which it did with
great eagerness. After keeping it for a fortnight in
this manner, an enthusiastic lady naturalist, the late

92 Craigiuillar and its Environs.

Mrs Hoyes of Skelmorlie, asked for the bird — a
request which was readily acceded to. Putting the
cuckoo into a large aviary, where, among many other
birds, weire American blue robins, she was surprised,
when feeding it with meal-worms, and accidentally
dropping one, to see a little blue robin pick it up,
and at once pop it into the cuckoo's mouth. She
subsequently observed that the same bird fed it
regularly, and showed fight to any other bird that
dared to come near it. Instances have occasionally
been recorded of foster-mothers of cuckoos, in their
wild state, starving themselves to death in their de-
votion to supply their gluttonous charge with food,
when immediately a bird, sometimes of another species,
would commence to provide for the young brood.
These statements have naturally been accepted with re-
serve, but the case in point affords some corroboration
of their accuracy. Mrs Hoyes wrote: "I don't know
when I felt the loss of a pet more than I do the dear
devoted blue nurse which we found dead this morning.
I do most thoroughly believe that the poor wee bird
starved itself to death in trying to keep the cuckoo

The Avifauna. 93

satisfied with food. I have seen it pick up three meal-
worms at once when I threw in about a dozen, in the
hope it might take one for itself; but no — every one he
scrambled for went down the cuckoo's throat, never
apparently swallowing one itself. Strange to say,
one of the cardinals (Pope, South American) has
taken charge of the cuckoo, and is feeding it well."
Eventually it picked its food for itself, and up till the
end of October seemed to thrive; but on the night of
the 30th of that month several degrees of frost were
encountered, and "the following morning," the lady
wrote, "I saw at once he was doomed, but his end was
so gentle that he really seemed to sleep away."

This incident affords another illustration of the
futility of practising experiments where the natural
instincts of the creatures involved and the law of
adaptation are not fully considered. In few cases
have we found experiments in natural history of
the character here referred to succeed. So long as
external circumstances constrain wild birds or animals
to adapt themselves to their somewhat anomalous
position, they will submit to it, but in the long-run

94 Craigmillar and its Environs.

nature generally asserts itself, and declines to be
governed by artificial expedients.

Magpies are plentiful in the neighbourhood, and
are most interesting though mischievous birds. They
are very destructive to the eggs and young of game,
as well as to birds of the singing class. They are
long-lived, though reliable statistics of their longevity
are difficult to acquire. A very amusing pet, locally
known as the "Liberton Magpie," has been kept for
a number of years now in semi-captivity, and as its
history is interesting, a short account of this bird is
here given.

In the spring of 1881 Mr Kerr, the postmaster
at Liberton, found a young magpie which had
dropped from a nest in the Kingston Grange wood,
and was unable to fly. Taking it home, he attempted
to feed it, but for two days it could not be induced
to open its mouth. On the third day it was compelled
by hunger to accept the proffered food, and after
partaking of it, seemed at once to become reconciled
to its new circumstances. In a short time it became
very tame, and much attached to the postmaster's

The Avifauna. 95

son. It followed him about wherever he went, and
was his constant companion in the work-
shop. By-and-by " Jacky," as he is
called, became very mischievous, and
stole everything he was able to lift. All
the small tools disappeared, but by
watching his movements the hiding-
place was found, and the stolen articles
recovered. For some time the
playing of marbles by boys on
the road in the , .

centre of the vil-
lage had come to
be a source of annoy-
ance. " Jacky," how-
ever, soon put a stop
to this. Quick as light-
ning he would dart
down among the boys,
pick up a marble, and
fly off with it to his "Jacky," the liberton magpie.
hiding-place. But the loss of their marbles was more

g6 Craigmillar and its Environs.

than the boys would stand, and " Jacky " was sub-
jected to revengeful treatment ; stones were thrown at
him whenever an opportunity offered, with the result
that he has had many narrow escapes, and one of his
legs has been broken in two places. In spite of
this, however, he has been the means of entirely
putting a stop to boys playing marbles on the road.
"Jacky" robs all the birds' nests in proximity to
his premises, and is often besieged by blackbirds,
thrushes, and other small birds, while he is amusing
himself in tearing their nests to pieces or regaling
himself on their eggs. Sometimes several of his own
species appear within sight, when he instantly attacks
them, and frequently returns ruffled both in feathers
and temper. The only member of the feathered
tribe with which "Jacky" seems to fraternise is a
rook. For hours the two may be seen together
sitting on the high trees that overhang the wood-
yard, or flymg about, apparently without other aim
than the enjoyment of each other's company.
"Jacky's" mischievous tricks became so serious
that he was at one time condemned to death. He

The Avifauna. gy

had long been in the habit of flying at boys and
grown-up people, but had never interfered with helpless
children. One day, however, he flew at a child, and
on the little fellow falling forward, he pecked the back
of his head till the piteous screams brought the
mother to the rescue. Such conduct could not be
tolerated, and "Jacky," as already said, was con-
demned to suffer capital punishment. Hearing of the
circumstance, we interceded on his behalf, with the
result that his sentence was commuted to a couple of
months' imprisonment in a cage. Whether his con-
finement had a beneficial effect, or whether, as he
grows older, he is becoming endowed with more sense,
we are unable to state, but he has now given up
attacking children unless to defend himself when
molested by them.

The Great Spotted Woodpecker we have seen
at Niddrie, in the policies of Duddingston, and at The
Inch. At the latter place one remained for a long
time in the summer of i8go. It is most interesting
to watch the habits of this bird. After choosing a
suitable cleft between two branches, it pecks a hole

Craigmillar and its Environs,

with its powerful beak, in which it tightly wedges fir
cones, thus securing facilities for pulling them to
pieces, one segment at a time, in order to get at the
seed. An illustration of this came under our notice
as we saw the bird feeding, and on climbing the tree
the cone was found tightly wedged, while the fragments
of others lay in profusion at the foot.

In 1890 a great spotted woodpecker for several
weeks frequented the gardens in the village of
Liberton, and eventually became entangled in a
net for protecting strawberries from the depredations
of blackbirds. Being secured by Mr Forbes of
Craigievar, it was taken by that gentleman to Mr
Dewar, naturalist, Edinburgh, with the view of
having it stuffed. As it was still alive, Mr Dewar
pled that . the bird should be spared, a request
which was readily granted. It was thereupon put
into Mr Dewar's large aviary at the back of his
premises in St Patrick Square, and was fed on
American pea-nuts and insect food, which it seemed
greatly to relish. Notwithstanding that it appeared
to thrive, it did not become reconciled to being

The Avifauna.

confined, and during the many months it was in
the aviary it wrought almost incessantly to effect
its escape. It made holes in the woodwork, and the
harder the wood the better it seemed to like to peck
at it. But for being closely
watched, and the holes re- _ c x^

As far ^Wl

^-.-

paired, it doubtless would soon :^'
have made its exit,
as its bill could reach in be-
tween the stones, it loosened
the plaster from the wall, and,
with the greatest amount of "^^^
perseverance, pecked away at V •
the iron bars incessantly. On \i^'
the first Sunday of the bird's f'
imprisonment a zealous police-
man on the beat heard a noise
in an ironmonger's shop adjoin-
ing Mr Dewar's premises. Listening at the keyhole,
he concluded that burglars had effected an entrance,
and were engaged in picking the lock of the safe.
Raising the alarm, the premises were speedily sur-

The Great Spotted
woodpeckek.

Cya'w-inillay and its Environs.

rounded by policemen, and a detective proceeded
first to the proprietor's house and then to church,
where Mr Dewar was, to bring him to the shop. On
the door being opened no burglar was found, and
it was ultimately discovered that the noise was caused
b}' " ane o' Dewar's parrots," as some one dubbed the
woodpecker, hammering away with his powerful bill
against the bars of his prison. The destruction to
the woodwork of the aviary became intolerable, and
the bird was eventually confined in an iron cage.
This mode of treatment, however, did not seem to
agree with him, and he soon afterwards died, having
been over twelve months in confinement.

The Thrush, as might be expected, is very
common around Craigmillar. The severe winter of
1880-81 almost annihilated them, and for several
years afterwards they were exceedingly scarce. Now,
however, they are again plentiful, and the ear is
delighted by their soft and charming melody. The
song of the thrush is among the first to be heard
after the dull dark days of winter, and it is welcomed
as one of the sweetest harbingers of spring.

TJic Avifauna. loi

The Missel-Thrush, though not nearly so com-
mon as the preceding species, is nevertheless abun-
dant. It is fond of fruit, and does no little mischief
to strawberries in the Craigmillar market-gardens.

The Fieldfare is generally regarded as the fore-
runner of hard weather, and is one of our most familiar
winter visitors. Fieldfares are frequently seen in the
district in large flocks.

The Redwing is also a winter visitor, and one
which soon suffers from severe weather. During frost
redwings flock in large numbers to the irrigated
meadows, a part of which we always keep flooded in
a storm, for the express purpose of feeding the birds
which congregate there in thousands.

The Blackbird is very common ; and albinos
and pied specimens are occasionally seen around
Craigmillar.

A few Woodcock are shot here every season. We
have never known them to nest in the environs of
Craigmillar, though they do in many parts of England
and Scotland.

Snipe are plentiful, and at nights feed in large

I02 Craigmillar and its Environs.

numbers on the Craigmillar irrigation-farm. The
shores of Duddingston Loch constitute perennial
feeding-ground for these birds, and numbers are shot
there every season.

The Jacksnipe is only a winter visitor, arriving
in September and taking its departure in April. A
considerable number of them are annually shot about
Duddingston Loch.

The Landrail or Corn-crake is common here.
But for its discordant croaking note, few persons
would ever be aware of its presence. While spending
a holiday on the Island of Hitteren, in Norway, in
the spring of i88g, we felt rather lonely in our walks
in consequence of being unable to speak or under-
stand the language. The crake of the landrail, how-
ever monotonous it may be considered, had a wondrous
effect in cheering our spirits : we felt as if we had
heard the voice of an old friend. After such a
confession, it is rather hard to say that we have
shot numbers of these birds in second-crop grass
in September.

The Water- RAIL is not nearly so common as

The Avifauna. 103

the landrail, but is frequently seen at Duddingston
Loch.

The Spotted Crake is a rare visitor to this
locality. In 1890 one was found on the road near
Liberton, its death having evidently been caused by
its flying against the telegraph wires.

The Dabchick or Little Grebe breeds every
season at Duddingston Loch. For years we have
tried to get a specimen of an adult male, but have
not yet succeeded, though we have followed them
for hours with a boat. So expert are they at diving,
that before the boat could be got within shot of one,
down he would go ; and while rowing near the spot,
and watching for his reappearance, he would be
discovered far out of shot in the rear. A dabchick
was found near The Inch recently, having also met
its death by flying against the telegraph wires.

The Goatsucker or Night-Jar, though unknown
to many on account of its nocturnal habits, is found
in this district. We have often seen one at dusk on
a clothes-pole in the laundry green at The Inch.

The Peregrine Falcon we have twice seen at

I04

Craigniillar and its Environs.

Craigmillar. The Buzzard we have only once ob-
served, in the Hermitage wood. The Osprey we
noticed one Sunday evening in the spring of 1890
circhng round Duddingston Loch, with the evident

The Goatsucker or Night-Jar.

intention of ahghting. Unfortunately a large number
of people were about, and after flying round for five or
six minutes, it winged its way towards the south-east.

The Sparrow-hawk is frequently seen, and occa-
sionally breeds about Craigmillar. It is more destruc-

The Avifauna. 105

tive to birds of the singing class and young game than
any other of the hawk tribe. The number of bird
remains found near sparrow-hawks' nests when they
are rearing their young is almost incredible. In
March 1887 a female sparrow-hawk dashed with great
violence against the plate-glass window of Almora
Villa, Liberton, then occupied by Mr Patrick Guthrie,
and was picked up dead by that gentleman. It was
not unnaturally assumed that the hawk had been in
pursuit of its prey, though it was significant that there
was no indication of any other bird having struck
the window. Some days after, while Mr Guthrie
was conversing with his gardener, he was startled by
a sharp thud, as if something of a soft or flexible
nature had been thrown against the window over-
head. On looking up he was surprised to see a
bird of considerable size falling to the ground. On
picking it up he was interested to find that it was
another sparrow-hawk, but on this occasion a male
bird. Again it was conjectured that this hawk had
met its untimely fate in pursuit of its prey. Our

attention having been called to the fact, we felt con-

G 2

io6 Craigmillar and its Environs.

vinced, after having carefully examined the place,
that the hawks were not in pursuit of prey at all.
This conclusion was confirmed by the circumstance
that neither in this case, nor, as indicated, in that of
the former, was there the slightest trace of any small
bird having struck the window. How this strange
incident is to be accounted for is a matter which will
interest most naturalists. We naturally felt puzzled,
but in lookmg straight towards the window from a dis-
tance, we discovered what to our mind was the true
solution of the mystery. We observed that the trees
in Mount Vernon wood were clearly and distinctly
reflected in the plate-glass — so much so, that it
appeared to those looking m to be like an avenue
of trees, along which it is known hawks are often
seen to skim. There can be no doubt that had the
blinds of the window been down, no such remarkable
incident would have occurred. This theory is cor-
roborated by additional observations subsequently
referred to.

The Merlin we have frequently seen here, but
have never known it to breed.

The Avifauna. 107

The Kestrel is by far the most common hawk
we have in Scotland, and is often seen at Craigmillar.
It is regarded as a friend by the agriculturist, as the
number of mice it destroys is scarcely credible. At
present we have three kestrels as pets, and unless
.compelled by hunger, they will not eat any birds. If
a number of dead mice and sparrows are put down to
them, the former are all devoured, and a day intervenes
before they will touch the latter. On dissecting a
kestrel, we discovered four mice and a number of
beetles in its crop and gizzard. It is right to mention,
however, that when they have to provide for their
hungry nestlings, young grouse, partridges, pheasants,
and other birds are frequently killed by them.

The Lark is plentiful in this district, though large
numbers are captured annually by bird-catchers from
Edinburgh. An amount of gross Sabbath desecration
is continually perpetrated by bands of profligate
"roughs" from the city thus plying their merciless
work. During a recent winter, when the ground for
weeks was covered with snow, most birds, but especi-
ally larks, were on the point of starvation, and were

io8 Craigmillav and its Environs.

attracted in large numbers to any speck of black
f^round that was visible. The bird-catching fraternity,
taking a mean advantage, cleared the snow off manure
heaps, where they spread their nets and captured the
birds wholesale, so that for several years thereafter
the public ear in this district was rarely gratified by
the unrivalled music of these aerial songsters. We
have here a species of rascality which unfortunately
neither farmers, the officers of the Society for the
Prevention of Cruelt}- to Animals, nor the county
police have power to interfere with. There is no law
of trespass to protect the farmer, however much his
crops may be trampled and destroyed, apart from
the costly process of interdict ; and bird-catching,
as already indicated, does not come within the pale
of the law. By the Wild Birds Protection Act, any
one, however well intentioned, who takes a thrush
or lark from its nest for a pet during the breeding
season is liable to be punished ; and yet in the
winter months the despicable class referred to is
allowed to capture our songsters wholesale without
fear of legal consequences. That such a state of

The Avifauna. 109

matters is allowed to exist is a blot on our legisla-
ture, and it is to be hoped that some humane mem-
ber of Parliament may take the matter up, otherwise
the extirpation of the lark, not to speak of other
feathered favourites, may have at no distant date to
be deplored.

Grouse we have shot on a stubble field at Craig-
millar. It was, however, after a high gale from the
south-west, when they had doubtless been blown from
the Pentlands. Several gentlemen of our acquaintance
have seen them on Arthur's Seat.

The Greylag Goose is common in Mid-Lothian,
and they sometimes alight on the reservoir of the
Liberton Water Company.

Golden Plover, after returning from their breed-
ing haunts, frequent the fields around Craigmillar
during the autumn and winter, feeding on the insect
life found on grass fields, turnip fields, and ploughed
land.

The Peewit or Lapwing is much more plentiful
than the Golden Plover, and is to be seen here at
all seasons, though large numbers migrate from the

no Craigmillar and its Environs.

hills after having reared their young. This is one
of the most harmless of our British birds. It is
most interesting to watch them feeding, picking up
worms and slugs off the ground. The bird is very-
common in all parts of the country, and, except
for its eggs being gathered for the market, is rarely
molested. It was otherwise a century ago, when
country people expressed great dislike to it, and
destroyed it wherever and whenever they had an
opportunity. The reason alleged was that this bird,
being by instinct led to flit about and scream near
any one who obtruded on the solitude of its native
wilds, helped to guide the king's troops in their pur-
suit of the Covenanters holding conventicles, ^by its
being observed to hover over a particular spot. In
the revised edition of the Bible, at Leviticus xi. 19,
the " lapwing " has given place to the " hoopoe," the
latter being now generally considered to be the correct
rendering. It is somewhat gratifying to know that
the lapwing need no longer be characterised as
"unclean," though that stigma is now transferred to
"the bird of beauty."

The Avifauna. iii

The Black-headed Gull is common here, as in
all parts of the country. This bird is partly nocturnal
in its habits, and we have frequently seen it flying
about all night feeding on moths. Though adhering
to the coast during winter, it retires inland to breed,
generally on an island in some marshy lake. At
Pallinsburn, near Coldstream, large numbers breed on
the islands in the lake there, and form an attraction
for naturalists from all parts of the country. Thanks
to the proprietor, Mr Askew Robertson, they are
preserved with scrupulous care.

The Common Gull is to be seen in large numbers
following the plough at Craigmillar, eagerly snatching
up worms and grubs as they are exposed to view.

The Great Black-backed Gull is also to be
seen around Craigmillar. In summer this bird is
most destructive to eggs and young game on hillsides
which they frequent. During the lambing season
they also do serious mischief. We are assured
by shepherds that they attack and kill sickly lambs ;
and we have frequently seen them gorging themselves
on the carcase of a dead sheep. It seems somewhat

112 Craigmillar and its Environs.

of an anomaly that this bird should have the benefit
of the Sea Birds Protection Act.

With the Herring Gull every one is familiar.
It may not, however, be generally known that it is
an enemy to the farmer : we have frequently seen
it disgorge quantities of grain, along with large
numbers of worms.

Pheasants are to be seen in the woods around
Craigmillar. In the spring of 1892 a beautiful pheasant
cock, in full flight, dashed against the drawing-room
window of a gentleman's mansion near Craigmillar,
and such was the force of the impact that, although
the plate-glass of the window was a quarter of an
inch thick, the bird penetrated it, and fell dead in the
centre of the room. Five years previously, we are
informed, another pheasant killed itself by dashing
through the same window.

Partridges are also found in considerable num-
bers, as many as twenty brace having been killed in
one day in the fields around the castle in recent years.
It is a curious fact that this familiar bird gets com-
pletely bewildered if placed in other circumstances

The Avifauna. 113

than those to which it is accustomed. During the
severe storm of 188 1 numbers flew into Edinburgh,
no doubt in search of food and attracted by the black
ground, when, on being chased by boys, they never
attempted to use their wings, but fluttered helplessly
about till they were captured.

Wood-Pigeons, though not in great numbers, are
found in the environs of Craigmillar. A few pairs nest
in the dense foliage of the lime-trees at The Inch,
where they are allowed to harbour and breed without
restraint. Their nests, however, are very frequently
robbed by magpies. In one of these limes we have
several times removed the eggs of the wood-pigeon,
and deposited those of a tame one. Though the
young birds were successfully reared, no sooner were
they able to provide for themselves than they bade
good-bye to the woods, and took up their abode in a
dovecot close by.

The Starling is numerous in the Craigmillar dis-
trict, and may be seen feeding in large flocks in the
irrigated meadows and grass fields. There are few
birds more interesting than the starling, and it is

114 Craigmillm' mid its Environs.

equally at home in town or country. Though gener-
ally regarded as insectivorous, we have found their
gizzard to contain both fruit and grain. Starlings may
be seen feeding on the currant-bushes in the market-
gardens around Craigmillar. They also seem to be
passionately fond of "rowans," which they devour
with great gusto. An animated discussion recently
took place in one of our leading journals as to
whether starlings were responsible for the partial
disappearance of larks, by devouring their eggs.
The arguments advanced in support of the conten-
tion that they were thus responsible appeared so con-
vincing, that we resolved to try an experiment. In
an old grass meadow numbers of broods of starlings
fed daily, turning up the half dried cow-manure and
devouring the insects exposed to view. With the aid
of some boys, we collected several dozens of small
birds' eggs of different kinds. Making a number of
artificial nests among the grass where the cow-
droppings appeared most plentiful, we deposited
therein three, four, and in some cases five eggs, and
from a distance watched the result. Mother starlings

The Avifauna.

115

with their young broods came and stalked about with
characteristic activity over the spots where the eggs
were deposited, but in no case were these interfered
with. While not regarding

this as an infallible test, we

• -, • • • f

consider it presumptive evi- ^

dence that starlings are in no

way responsible for the scarcity

of the lark.

The Swift is plentiful at

Craigmillar, and breeds in

holes in the south front of the

castle ruins. Most people

wonder at the small hole they

go in at, considering the size

of the bird.

The Swallow also frequents
the district.

The Sand-Martin abounds,
and bores in nearly every sandbank in the district, where
it deposits its eggs. This must be a hardy bird, as some-
times severe weather is experienced after its arrival.

rHK Swift.

ii6 Craigmillar and its Environs.

The House - Martin may be regarded as the
greatest favourite among the tribe of swallows. Its
arrival is, in general, welcomed, and protection ac-
corded to it when nesting under the eaves. When^
however, it insists on building its nest in the comer of a
window, the swallow's notion of the fitness of things does
not always commend itself to the cleanly housewife.

The Gold Crest is much more common than is
generally believed. This bird has been noticed in cold
weather in some of the gardens at Newington.

The Cole Tit, though common in all parts of the
country, is not seen in great numbers around Craig-
millar, being partial to fir plantations.

The Blue Tit is very common. The female is
most ferocious in her attacks upon any intruder
approaching her nest.

The Great Tit is plentiful in this district, as in
most parts of the country.

The Long-tailed Tit, though not in great num-
bers, is seen around Craigmillar, and sometimes in
gardens in Edinburgh. The nest of this bird is well
known to the juvenile egg-collector.

The Avifauna. 117

The Tree-Creeper is often seen running up and
round the trunks of the old elm and ash trees in the
policies at The Inch.

Jenny Wren and Cock Robin are known every-
where, Craigmillar being no exception.

The Sedge-Warbler frequents, and occasionally
breeds among, the reeds at Duddingston Loch. The
nest is generally near the water, among the roots of
the sedges, or against stumps of old trees beside the
reeds. It is, however, almost impossible for this or
any other bird, including the swans, to hatch their
eggs or rear their young at Duddingston, so closely
and carefully are their nests daily sought for by
juveniles, as well as by " roughs " from the city.
In point of fact, the provisions of the Wild Birds'
Protection Act, so far as the neighbourhood of Edin-
burgh is concerned, may be regarded as a dead letter.
Though not remarkably melodious, the sedge-warbler
sings vigorously, commencing when the sun gets
low, and, when the days are at their longest, some-
times continuing the entire night. As a consequence,
paragraphs appear from time to time in the newspapers

ii8 Cyaigniillar and its Environs.

announcing that the nightingale has been heard in
Scotland, — a statement which has always been found
to be imaginary when the place was visited by any
practical ornithologist.

The Blackcap is a summer migrant arriving in the
spring, and leaves as soon as its young are sufficiently
strong to provide for themselves. Though we have
never seen it in close proximity to Craigmillar, it is
frequently observed within a few miles' distance.
The same remarks apply to the Garden-Warbler.

The Chiffchaff, though rare, we have seen in the
district. It is usually the first of the warblers to visit
us in the spring.

The Whitethroat is often seen on Arthur's Seat
and on the hedges all round. This little migrant soon
makes its arrival known by singing on the top of the
first hedge it alights upon after reaching our shores.
It is in beautiful plumage when it arrives, but soon
assumes a very shabby appearance.

The Wood-Warbler is fairly plentiful, and gener-
ally found in tall woods. Numbers frequent the high
beeches in Kingston Grange park.

The Avifauna. iig

The Willow- Warbler is common in this locaUty.

The Pied Wagtail is plentiful around Craigmillar.
Though a few of these birds remain with us over the
winter, by far the greater number only visit us in
summer. Like swallows, they congregate in par-
ticular places prior to their departure. Under the
eaves of the General Post-Office in Edinburgh appears
to be a favourite roosting-place after they assemble in
flocks.

The White Wagtail, though not common, is
occasionally seen in the locality. It is not easily
distinguished from the pied species, and considerable
doubts exist among naturalists as to whether it is
a true species or only a Continental form of the
Pied Wagtail.

The Grey Wagtail is common. A pair nested
recently in a hole in the wall of the old mill at Nether
Liberton, behind the water-wheel. How they got out
and in, when the wheel was in motion, is a mystery,
as no one was ever able to see them make the attempt.

The Tree-Pipit is only a summer visitor. It is
fairly numerous in the woods around Craigmillar.

I20 Craigmillar and its Environs.

The Meadow-Pipit is one of the commonest of
our birds. Though a few remain with us over
winter, large numbers arrive from other countries in
the spring.

The RocK-PiPiT is also common near the coast, but
has, as its name implies, a predilection for rocks on
the sea-shore.

The Snow-Bunting is a winter migrant, and in
severe winters is observed on Arthur's Seat.

The Reed-Bunting is not numerous, but occasional
specimens are seen on marshy spots in this locality.

The Corn-Bunting frequents the fields in the
environs of Craigmillar.

The Yellowhammer is found here at all seasons.

The House- and Hedge-Sparrow are both very
common.

The Greenfinch is very plentiful. In September
flocks of several thousands may be seen feeding on the
oat stubbles around Craigmillar.

The Siskin is a winter visitor, and large flocks are
occasionally to be seen in the district.

The Redpole is by no means uncommon in this

The Avifauna.

121

locality, and is not unfrequently met with on the
Braid Hills.

The Linnet
does not appear
to be so plentiful
as it was in our
bird-nesting days.
Some are, how-
ever, still to be
seen on Arthur's
Seat and the Braid
Hills.

The Chaffinch,
though partially
migratory, as is
evidenced by num-
bers of them being
killed by flying
against the light-
house lamps both
in spring and Chaffinch, Bui,i.finch, and Crossbill.
autumn, is plentiful at all seasons around Craigmillar.

H 2

122 Craigmillar and its Environs.

The Bullfinch used to be plentiful in the locality.
Thanks, however, to the bird-catching fraternity, they
are now seldom seen.

The Crossbill may be considered a very rare bird,
though a specimen turns up now and then. One was
recently killed on Corstorphine Hill.

The Goldfinch we have seen occasionally about
Craigmillar. A pair frequented the avenue at The
Inch for some time a few years ago.

The Common Sandpiper visits us in summer, fre-
quenting the Braid burn and other brooks.

The Spotted Flycatcher is by no means plentiful,
but specimens are to be observed. They seldom arrive
till the middle of May, and leave early in autumn.

The Ring-Ousel is a summer migrant. We have
often seen it on the Pentlands.

The Redstart is a handsome little bird, and up
till very recently bred on Blackford Hill. Now,
however, that the hill has become the property of
the citizens of Edinburgh, a bird's nest is as difficult
to find there as the proverbial " needle in a hay-
stack."

The Avifauna. 123

The Whinchat is found widely distributed over the
country during the summer months, an occasional
specimen being seen in this locality.

The Stonechat, though partially migratory, is
found in Scotland during the entire year. A few are
seen occasionally on Arthur's Seat.

The Wheatear, also a summer migrant, breeds on
Arthur's Seat and the Braid Hills.

Most of our readers who have examined the fore-
going list will now admit that we have made good
the statement at the beginning of this chapter, that
the Craigmillar district is peculiarly rich in bird-life.
To city dwellers especially, it is very pleasant and
refreshing to escape for a brief season into the country,
and to have the wearied mind soothed by the varied
music of our feathered songsters. The citizens of
Edinburgh may be said to possess exceptional advan-
tages in this respect ; and not the least charming of
their rural walks may be found in the environs of
Craigmillar, where such " concert of sweet sounds "
can be so fully enjoyed.

124 Craigmillar and its Enviro7is.

lEoton^ of tSe (BrQigmirior ©istrist.

Owing to the natural diversities of the landscape in
the surroundings of Craigmillar, the flora of the district
is at once rich and varied. Here are found height and
valley, wood and meadow, marsh and lake, each with
its characteristic vegetation. The peaks and precipices
of Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags, the waters of
Duddingston Loch and its fenny margin, the cultivated
fields and plantations around Craigmillar, and the
rums of the ancient pile itself, — all these combine to
furnish, in a comparatively small extent of surface, a
remarkable number of our native plants. Many of
these are, of course, the familiar friends that greet the
lover of our British wild-flowers in many parts of the
country; yet several of them are rare enough to make

Botany of the Craiginillar District. 125

us hope they may long continue to thrive in the places
where they have for so long found a congenial home.

The flora of Arthur's Seat and the country imme-
diately surrounding has long engaged the attention of
local botanists. The first list of plants found in these
localities was drawn up by Sir Robert Sibbald, one of
the founders of the Edinburgh Royal Botanic Garden,
so early as 1684, and contained 881 species and
varieties of flowering - plants ; while about a century
later Mr Yalden, assisted by a few other enthusiastic
field-botanists, compiled a list of 313 species of plants,
mostly growing on Arthur's Seat or Salisbury Crags,
for Dr Lightfoot, who was then amassing material for
his ' Flora Scotica,' the first edition of which appeared
in 1777. With the exception of an additional list of
Edinburgh plants, which was drawn up by a well-
known authority, Mr R. Maughan, and published
in the first volume of the Wernerian Society's Trans-
actions for 1808-10,^ no other catalogue of local plants

^ The title of this interesting paper is, "A List of the Rarer
Plants observed in the Neighbourhood of Edinburgh." By Robert
Maughan, Esq., F.L.S. (Read 9th Dec. 1809.)

126 Craigmillar and its Environs,

appeared till 1824, when Dr Greville produced his
' Flora Edinensis,' This now classic work is a bulky
volume of nearly 500 pages, and embraces both
flowering and flowerless plants, arranged under 1794
species. The need of a smaller and more portable
book called forth, a few months after the appear-
ance of Dr Greville's work, a pocket volume entitled
' A Catalogue of the Indigenous Phenogamic Plants
growing in the Neighbourhood of Edinburgh, and
of certain Species of the Class Cryptogamia, with.
Reference to their Localities,' by James Woodforde,
a prizeman at that date in the botanical class of
Professor Graham. This concise list of 806 species,
arranged according to the Linnaean system, as was
the fashion of the time, is still valuable, furnishing
a ver}' interesting record of the plants then growing on
Arthur's Seat and within the precincts of the Park,
although the author goes occasionally much farther
afield. As a pocket companion for the field-botanist
in this district, it had no rival, for nearly forty
years, until, in 1863, it was superseded by the
' Flora of Edinburgh,' compiled by Professor J. H.

Botany of the Craigmillar District. 127

Balfour and Mr John Sadler. Since the publication
of this work, now more than a quarter of a century
ago, no other book of the kind, dealing with our local
plants, has appeared, though, from the extension of
the city, and various other causes, numerous changes
in the localities of plants have occurred during the
interval. Many wild-flowers, also, which at a com-
paratively recent period were abundant within the
precincts of the Park or in the surrounding district
are now either almost eradicated or have entirely
disappeared. As examples, the following amongst
others are noted in Woodforde's Catalogue as grow-
ing at that time in the Hunter's Bog — viz., the
Grass of Parnassus [Parnassia palustris)^ the nearest
station for which is now the Pentlands ; the lovely
little Bog Pimpernel {Anagallis tenella)^ mentioned
under the same locality in Professor Balfour's
^ Flora,' but which is not now found nearer than
Gullane and a few other distant stations; the Butter-
wort {Pinguicula vulgaris), which must also be now
sought for on the Pentlands ; and the Buckbean and
Ragged Robin or Cuckoo-flower, which are both,

128 Craigmillar and its Environs.

happily, still growing near Duddingston Loch, but
have long since vanished from the Hunter's Bog.
Many other fine plants have left their old homes,
such as the Wood Hyacinth and the Maiden Pink,
and we can only heave a sigh over their loss. It is
related of at least one enthusiastic botanist, who
lamented this sad state of matters, that he was in
the habit of filling his pockets with seeds of his
vanished favourites, and sallying forth to the Park
to scatter them broadcast over the heights and valleys.
Numbers of our commoner native plants, however, are
yet growing here; and the diligent searcher among the
nooks and crannies may be rewarded by finding even
some of what must now be termed the rarer kinds.

In attempting to enumerate the plants of the
Craigmillar district, it will not only be necessary to
circumscribe somewhat the area, but those plants also
more commonly met with must, in a work of this kind,
be almost entirely left out of account. Appended to
this chapter will be found a list of plants which have
been selected as less or more characteristic of the
varied natural features of the district. As in many

Botany of the Craigmillar District. 129

other "select lists" which have been drawn up, some
may be surprised at finding certain names included,
and others — it may be their own special favourites —
left out. In all such cases one can only crave indul-
gence, and plead in extenuation the difficulty of the
task. A general idea may now be given of the floral
wealth of the included area, by special reference to
some of what may be termed the outstanding plants.
Beginning with Craigmillar Castle, one or two
plants which have possibly been connected with its
occupation by Queen Mary, or by others at a some-
what later date, may be noted. Thus on the walls
of the old building there is still found a pot-herb
known as "French Sorrel" {Riimex scutatus), which
may have been used by the cooks of the royal house-
hold, and thus got a footing here. This plant, however,
though now found in several parts of Scotland and the
North of England, and often connected with monkish
culture, is not native. Another plant formerly used
for culinary purposes is growing near the walls of the
castle, namely, the Sweet Cicely [Myrrhis odorata).
Both the popular and the scientific names of this

130 Craigmillar and its Environs.

"herb" have a certain poetic ring about them; and
the whole plant is remarkable for its aromatic flavour.
Though the Sweet Cicely is found in a few other
localities in the neighbourhood of the city, generally
near old dwellings or ruinous places, another Craig-
millar plant is somewhat rare in our native flora, and
is found nowhere else in the Edinburgh district. This
is the plant known, curiously enough, as Alexanders
(Smyrniuin olusatrum), the young shoots of which were
at one time, and perhaps are still in some places, used
for the table. Though found here so far inland, this
plant usually frequents waste ground near the sea-
coast. Of these three Craigmillar plants, only one —
the Sweet Cicely — is noted by Dr Greville as growing
in this locality in his time, though Woodforde gives
Craigmillar Castle as a station for Alexanders. One
is almost forced to believe that these authorities left
the French sorrel out of their lists intentionally,
from the fact of its being a straggler from cultivation,
as common tradition now connects it with the name
of Queen Mary. To this list of "pot-herbs" perhaps
another should be added, namely, the plant known

Botany of the Craigmillar District. 131

popularly as Good King Henry [Chenopodium Boniis-
Henricus), also found at Craigmillar. The large
succulent leaves of this plant are used in the same
way as the common or garden spinach, belonging to
the family of the Chenopodiacese, or Goosefoots, as
does also Good King Henry, Orach, Beet, &c. All
these plants are usually found naturalised near
places that have at one time been used for human
habitations.

A plant not very widely distributed in the Edin-
burgh district, though common in other places, is
growing abundantly in the joints of the old masonry
at the castle, namely, the Common Wall Pellitory
{Parietaria officinalis). The Creeping Cinquefoil (Potcn-
tilla reptans), somewhat local in its character, is also
still found here, but more sparingly than it once was.
That lovely member of the Borage family, the Ever-
green Alkanet (Anchusa sevipervirens) , is noted by Mr
Neill as growing at Craigmillar Castle in 1799, and
this is just the place where one would expect to find
it. Though it has now become rather rare, and in
some seasons scarcely a single plant of it can be

132 Craigmillar and its Environs.

found, yet it still maintains its ground to the south
of the castle. Many of our common wildlings have,
however, long since established themselves on the
walls and amongst the ruins, and may always be found
at their proper periods, as the Thyme-leaved Sand-
wort, the Vernal Whitlow Grass, the Dove's-foot
Crane's-bill, the Wall Speedwell, the Black Knap-
weed, the Wall Hawkweed, &c. The pretty Mountain
Crane's-bill (Geranium pyrenaicinn), not very often met
with, is still growing near the castle. So also is the
Common Mallow, with its bright purple flowers, and
the common Comfrey, a handsome plant, from two
to three feet high, with clusters of drooping flowers.

In the Queen's Park, on Arthur's Seat, and on
Salisbury Crags are yet growing a few plants which
are well worth a passing notice. One beautiful wild-
flower, which, fortunately, from its position on the
cliffs, it will be difficult to root out, is the German
Catchfly (Lychnis Viscaria), A writer in the 'Scots-
man,' over the signature of " Botanist," drew attention
a short time ago to this plant, and to other floral
features of the district, in the following terms: " One

Botany of the Craigmillar District. 133

of the most charming sights in the vicinity of Edin-
burgh, in the way of a natural rock-garden on a large
scale, is to be seen at present [in the month of June]
in the Queen's Park, at Samson's Ribs. The
basaltic rock itself — a geological phenomenon of great
interest — is always an impressive object, but as one
passes along, the eye is arrested by masses of the
beautiful German Catchfly {Lychnis Viscaria) growing
in luxuriance on the face of the rock, and lighting
it up with its pink flowers. In contrast with it there
is also the bright yellow Bird's-foot Trefoil {Lotus
corniculatus), which tends to heighten the effect. . . .
On the road farther east, towards the Windy Goul,
overlooking Duddingston Loch, the green turf is
jewelled with the handsome yellow petals of the
Rock-rose [Helianthemum vulgare), a most attractive
plant ; while on the upper road — the Queen's Drive —
the rocks during summer are always gay with the
most beautiful of our wild plants, including Fox-
gloves, wild Geraniums, Spiraea, Teucrium, Milk-vetch
{Astragalus), and others, reminding one of a good
district in the Highlands." It is not only on a

134 Craigmillar and its Environs.

midsummer's day, however, that Flora's treasures
are thus spread out here to view, for each season
reveals its own special beauties — whether it be the
budding time of the year, —

" When Daisies pied and Violets blue,
And Lady-smocks all silver-white,
And Cuckoo-buds of yellow hue

Do paint the meadows with delight ; " —

or more sober autumn, with its knapweeds and thistles
and wild grasses. One little gem of spring, said to
be only found in a few places in Scotland and at the
Lizard Point in Cornwall, is here so abundant as to
merit particular notice. This is the Vernal Sandwort
(the Arenaria verna of Linnaeus) — a tiny plant, seldom
more than three or four inches high, with com-
paratively large, white, star-shaped flowers, which
bespangle the turf in spring-time and early summer.
It is mentioned by Lightfoot as growing abundantly
on Arthur's Seat in his time, and no doubt flourished
in the same locality long before that period.

Any general notice such as this of the flora of
Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags would be incom-

Botany of the Craigmillar District. 135

plete without reference to what is now widely known
in botanical circles as " the Arthur's Seat fern."
This fern, the Forked Spleenwort {Asplenium scpten-
trionale), is thus noticed by Woodforde in 1824:
" Basaltic columns in the King's Park, and frequent
in many other places in the King's Park ; rocks on
the south side of Blackford Hill, abundant." It
goes without saying that this delightful state of
matters no longer subsists. In these days of fern
mania it is only in a few inaccessible places on
Samson's Ribs that the Forked Spleenwort continues
to live ; and though still found on the Braids, it is
destined, no doubt, soon to share the same fate
there.

Mention may now be made of some of the more
noteworthy plants growing at or near Duddingston
Loch. The first to claim attention is the Buckbean
or Bogbean {Menyanthes trifoliata), already mentioned
as found in this locality. This is undoubtedly one
of the handsomest of our native plants, with its buds
of a deep rose hue, and its corolla, when expanded,
thickly fimbriated or fringed on the inner surface. It

136 Craigmillar and its Environs.

is to be devoutly hoped that it may long continue to
thrive here, and not be trampled out of existence by
cattle, as it now bids fair to be in the near future.
Another somewhat rare plant, which may also suffer
from the same cause, is the Glaucous Stitchwort
{Stellaria glaitca), which affects marshy ground, and
has long found a home in this locality. It is men-
tioned by Mr Maughan, in his list of rare plants in
the neighbourhood of Edinburgh already referred to,
as growing here and at Lochend in the beginning of
the century. The visitor to Duddingston Loch in
the month of July, or thereabouts, might pass by this
humble Stitchwort unnoticed, but could hardly fail
to observe the handsome, tall, sword-shaped leaves
and bright yellow flowers of the Water Iris (Iris
Pseud-acorns), which forms quite a feature in the land-
scape at that time of the year. Another elegant plant,
which at one time was conspicuous about the same
season, but is now becoming very scarce here, is the
so-called Flowering Rush (Butomus umbellatus), a
rather rare plant, with its umbels of large rose-
coloured flowers, introduced at some former period,

Botany of the Craigmillar District. 137

though noted in this locahty by Dr Greville and other
early botanists. The Common Reed (the Anindo
Phragmites of Linnaeus), which adorns the sides of
the loch with its tall stems and beautiful inflorescence,
is also well worth notice. With the exception,
perhaps, of Lochend, the Common Mare's-tail (Hip-
piiris vulgaris) is found nowhere else in the Edinburgh
flora except in Duddingston Loch, where it is abun-
dant. Some good plants have disappeared from the
loch through the cleaning out of the too luxuriant
vegetation, or other causes. Thus the Water-Soldier
{Stratiotes abides)^ noted both by Mr Maughan and
the late Professor Balfour as growing here, has now
been lost,^ Several species of Water-Crowfoot are,
however, still present ; and the Marsh Marigold,
belonging to the same family as the Crowfoots, is
very conspicuous in the early summer months, with
its dark-green leaves and golden-yellow flowers. Last
— and least — the ubiquitous tiny Duckweed, or Water

^ It may be mentioned that this introduced plant has thor-
oughly established itself in an old marl-pit near Davidson's
Mains, now filled with water, where it promises soon to choke
out all other vegetation.

I 2

138 Craigmillar and its Environs.

Ivy [Lemna), is at some seasons very plentiful, form-
ing almost a green scum on the surface of the water.
There are said to be no fewer than four different
species of this diminutive plant found here, but only
experts can determine them.

As somewhat connected with the botany of Craig-
millar, a short notice of what is known as the
"Craigmillar Sycamore" may not inappropriately
close this chapter. This venerable Sycamore {Acer
pseudo-platanus) stands at the foot of the hill near
the castle, beside the hamlet of Little France. It
is often called " Queen Mary's Tree," from the belief
that it was planted by the queen during her residence
at Craigmillar. There is no record, indeed, of her
having done so, but the statement has been handed
down by oral tradition, and as such the tree has been
visited for generations by tourists from all parts of
the world. A lady long resident in the district informs
us that, when a girl, she frequently visited the tree
under the care of a grand-aunt, who, if she were still
alive, would now be about a hundred and fifty years
of age. The belief at that time was, that Queen
Mary planted the tree in the presence of Rizzio.

Botany of the Craigmillar District. 139

Some one, still inclined to be sceptical on the subject,

Queen Mary's Tree.
might fairly reply to this, in the words of Sir Walter

140 Craigmillav and its Environs.

Scott's "Antiquary," that "it may be only a lie with
a circumstance." Still, assuming that the old lady
referred to had the tradition, in all likelihood, handed
down to her, the fact is at least established that
Queen Mary's reputed connection with the tree is
by no means a modern invention.

About a dozen years ago this Sycamore tree
showed certain indications of decay, and fears were
entertained that it might succumb to a high westerly
gale. After consulting the best authorities, the late
Mr Little Gilmour, with great reluctance, in Sep-
tember 1 88 1 had the upper branches sawn off, in
order that the tree might thus offer less resistance to
the wind, and so ensure a likelihood of preserving it.
As the branches fell to the ground, a large crop of
seed was shaken off, which was carefully gathered,
and sown in a neighbouring nursery. The tree
received a great addition to its popular fame in
1886, when her Majesty, driving past it on her way
to Dalkeith Palace, expressed a wish that it should
be protected with an unscalable iron fence, which
desire was readily acceded to by the proprietor.

Botany of the Craigmillar District. 141

This little incident finding its way at the time
into the newspapers, requests came from all parts
of the world for seedlings from " Queen Mary's
tree." It was gratifying to all concerned that every
application could be granted, as an abundant supply
of young plants had grown from the seeds referred
to above. At the request of her Majesty, a num-
ber of seedlings were also forwarded to Windsor
and Balmoral, and not a few have since been
planted to adorn portions of the Craigmillar estate.
Among places of interest to which specimens were
sent may be mentioned one which was planted
beside the historic church of Ladykirk by the late
Lady Marjoribanks ; and another was placed within
the shadow of the ruined walls of Linlithgow Palace,
the birthplace of the unfortunate queen herself.
On the occasion of the freedom of the burgh of
Linlithgow being conferred upon the Right Hon.
the Earl of Rosebery, that distinguished noble-
man, in planting the seedling, spoke thus to a
large assemblage : " We do not plant this tree in
anything but a kindly spirit to that queen. If she

142 Craigmillar and its Environs.

was greatly sinning, she was yet, I think, more greatly
sinned against ; and her memory will always be in-
teresting to the whole of humanity, and always an
affectionate one to the people of this ancient burgh."
A metal tablet fixed in the ground at the foot of
the tree bears the following inscription: "This seed-
ling from Queen Mary's Tree, growing at Little
France, Craigmillar, was presented to the burgh of
Linlithgow by Walter James Little Gilmour of Craig-
millar, and, by permission of H.M. Board of Works,
was planted by the Right Hon. the Earl of Rosebery,
on 24th Sept. 1886, near the place in which Queen
Mary, who planted the parent tree, was born."
Perhaps this seedling, standing in this historic spot
amid associations so intimately connected with the
history of the Stuart race, when grown to stately
proportions may prove an interesting memento to
future generations of Scotland's beautiful but unfor-
tunate queen, with her " Iliad of woes," when the
parent tree from which it sprang has, by time or
fate, been levelled with the ground.

Botany of the Craigmillar District, 143

LIST OF A FEW OF THE NATIVE PLANTS

FOUND IN THE CRAIGMILLAR DISTRICT—

Including Craigmillar, Duddingston, Arthur's Seat,

Salisbury Crags, and Queen's Park.

Natural Order Ranunculaceae — Buttercup Family.

1. Ranunculus aquatilis L., Common Water Crowfoot. Duddingston

Loch ; also several varieties of this plant,

2. Ranunculus hederaceus L., Ivy-leaved Crowfoot. On margin of

loch ; very dwarf.

3. Ranunculus scelevatus L., Celery-leaved Crowfoot. On margin of

loch, abundant.

4. Ranunculus Flammula L., Lesser Spearwort. Common all round

the loch.

5. Ranunculus Lingua L., Great Spearwort. Mostly on south side

of loch, not very abundant.

6. Caltka palustris L., Common Marsh Marigold. Abundant on

south side of loch.

Natural Order Papaveraceae — Poppy Family.

7. Papavey Rhceas L., Common Red Poppy. Abundant in corn-

fields and waste places in the district.

144 Craigmillar and its Environs.

Natural Order Fumariaceae — Fumitory Family.

8. Fwnavia officinalis L., Common Fumitory. Common all round

the Park.

9. Ftimaria capreolata L., Rampant Fumitory. Common in fields

and waste places in the district.

Natural Order Cruciferse — Cresswort Family,

10. Cardamine pratensis L., Meadow Bitter- Cress or Lady's Smock.

Plentiful round margin of loch in spring.

11. Sisymhviimi Alliaria Scop., Jack-by-the-Hedge. Dry places in

the Park in spring.

12. Sisymbrium officinale Scop., Common Hedge- Mustard. In Park,

abundant.

13. Sisymbrium thalianum Gaud., Common Thale-Cress. In Park,

abundant.

14. Cheiranthus Cheiri L., Common Wallflower. Craigmillar

Castle.

15. Sinapis arvensis L., Charlock or Wild Mustard. Unhappily

only too common in corn-fields in the district.

16. Barbar^a vulgaris R. Br., Yellow Rocket. Abundant in the

district.

17. Draba verna L., Common Whitlow-grass. Craigmillar Castle.

Natural Order Cistineae — Rock-rose Family.

18. Helianthemum vulgare Gaert., Common Rock-rose. Generally

distributed in dry rocky places on Arthur's Seat and
Salisbury Crags.

Botanv of the Craigmillar District. 145

Natural Order Caryophylleae — Chickweed Family.

19. Silene infiata Sm., Bladder Campion. In the Park, not common.

20. Lychnis Viscavia L., German Catchfly. Samson's Ribs.

21. Lychnis Flos-cucnli L., Ragged Robin. Margin of loch, common.

22. Sagina prociimhens L,, Procumbent Pearlwort. In the Park,

common.

23. Avenaria vevna L., Vernal Sandwort. In perfection on southern

slopes of Arthur's Seat ; rare and local.

24. Armaria serpyUifolia L., Thyme-leaved Sandwort. Craigmillar

Castle and Park.

25. Stellaria glauca With., Marsh Stitchwort. East side of loch.

26. Stellaria uliginosa Murr., Bog Stitchwort. Margin of loch in

some places.

27. Cerastimn arvense L., Field Chickweed. Arthur's Seat, very

sparingly.

Natural Order Malvaceae — Mallow Family.

28. Malva sylvestris L., Common Mallow. Craigmillar.
Natural Order Hypericineae — St John's Wort Family.

29. Hypericum qtiadranguluiii L., Square-stalked St John's Wort.

West side of loch, on wet ground.

30. Hypericum ptdchriim L., Small upright St John's Wort. Arthur's

Seat.

Natural Order Geraniaceae — Crane's-bill Family.

31. Geranium pratense L., Blue Meadow Crane's-bill. Queen's Park.

32. Geranium sanguinenm L., Bloody Crane's-bill. South side of

Park ; one of the prettiest of our native geraniums.

146 Craigmillar and its Enviro7is.

33. Geranium molle L., Dove's-foot Crane's-bill. Common at

Duddingston.

34. Geranium pyrenaicum L., Mountain Crane's-bill. Craigmillar

and Salisbury Crags. Not plentiful.

35. Geranium Robertianum L., Herb Robert. Near old walls and

stony places, very common in district.

36. Erodium cicutarium Sm,, Hemlock-leaved Stork's-bill. South

side of Park.

Natural Order Leguminosse-^Pea and Bean Family.

37. Ulex europcBus L., Common Furze or Whin. East side of Park.

38. Ononis arvensis L., Rest- Harrow, Duddingston and Queen's

Park, in dry places.

39. Trifolium arvense L., Hare's-foot Trefoil. South side of Park.

40. Trifolium procunihens L., Hop Trefoil. Duddingston, in dry

places.

41. LoUis corniculatus L., Bird's-foot Trefoil. Arthur's Seat and

Park.

42. Astragalus Hypoglottis L., Purple Milk-vetch. Queen's Park;

very pretty in early summer.

43. Lathyrtis pratensis L., Yellow Meadow Vetchling. Hedges

about Duddingston.

Natural Order Rosaceae — Rose Family.

44. Spiraa Filipendula L., Common Dropwort. Queen's Park, not

now common.

45. Alchemilla vulgaris L., Common Lady's Mantle. Queen's Park,

common.

Botany of the Craigmillar District. 147

46. Potentilla verna L., Spring Cinquefoil. South side of Park,

dry places ; one of our rarer spring flowers.

47. Potentilla reptans L., Creeping Cinquefoil. Craigmillar, not

plentiful.

48. Ruhiis I diensh.., Common KdiS^herxy. East side of Arthur's Seat.

49. Rosa spinosissima L., Burnet-leaved Rose. Still to be found in

Queen's Park.

Natural Order Onagrarieae — Evening Primrose Family.

50. Epilohinm palustre L., Narrow-leaved Marsh Willow-herb.

Side of loch.

51. EpiloUum parviflonim Schreb., Small-flowered Hairy Willow-

herb. Side of loch.

52. Epilohinm hirsutum L., Great Hairy Willow-herb. Side of loch.

Natural Order Haloragese — Mare's-tail Family.

53. Hippuris vulgaris L., Common Mare's-tail. Duddingston Loch.

Natural Order Crassulacese — Stonecrop Family.

54. Sedum acre L., Biting Stonecrop. South side of Park, in rocky

places.

55. Saxifraga granulata L., White Meadow Saxifrage, North side

of loch, on dry ground.

Natural Order Umbelliferse — Umbelliferous Family.

56. Hydrocotyle vulgaris L., Marsh Penny-wort] West side of loch,

on boggy ground.

57. Helosciadium nodiflorum Koch., Procumbent Marshwort. East

side of loch, not very abundant.

148 Craigmillar and its Environs.

58. Helosciadium nodiflovum var. vepens, Creeping Marshwort. East

side of loch ; not a common plant in the British flora.

59. yEgopodimii Podagvaria L., Common Gout-weed. Craigmillar,

plentiful.

60. Bunium flexuosum With., Common Earth-nut. Queen's Park,

plentiful.

61. Slum angustifolium L., Narrow-leaved Water-parsnip. Margin

of loch, plentiful ; not often found in Scotland.

62. Tovilis nodosa Gaert., Hedgehog Parsley. Queen's Park, in dry

places.

63. Myvvhis odorata Scop., Sweet Cicely. Craigmillar.

64. Smyvnium Olusatrum L., Common Alexanders. Craigmillar.

Natural Order Rubiacese — Madder Family.

65. Galium palnstve L., White Water Bed-straw. Margin of loch.

66. Shevavdia arvensis L., Blue Sherardia or Field- Madder. South

side of Park, not plentiful ; apt to be overlooked from its
diminutive size.

Natural Order Compositse — Composite Family.

67. Filago gevmanica L., Cudweed. South side of Park, on dry

sandy places.

68. Senecio aquaticus Huds., Marsh Ragwort. Margin of loch,

common.
6g. Senecio viscosus L., Stinking Groundsel. Not a common plant
generally, but very plentiful on Arthur's Seat.

70. Lapsana communis L., Common Nipplewort. Queen's Park and

Craigmillar.

71. Sonchus asper Hofim., Shavp-hinged Annual Sow-thistle. South

side of Park, not plentiful.

Botany of the Craigmillar District. 149

72. Cvepis virens L., Smooth Hawk's Beard. South side of Park,

common.

73. Hieracium Pilosella L., Mouse-ear Hawk-weed. Queen's Park

and Duddingston, common.

Natural Order Gentianeae — Gentian Family.

74. Menyanthes trifoliata L., Buckbean or Bogbean. South side

of loch.
Natural Order Boragineae — Borage Family.

75. Anchisa sempervirens L., Evergreen Alkanet. South side of

Craigmillar Castle, not plentiful.

76. Symphytum officinale L., Common Comfrey. Craigmillar.

77. Echium vidgare L., Common Viper's Bugloss.' North slope of

Arthur's Seat, abundant ; sparingly on south side.

78. Myosotis palnstvis With., Water Scorpion-Grass. Margin of

loch, common in spring.

79. Myosotis arvensis Hoffm., Field Scorpion-Grass. South side of

Park.
Natural Order Scrophularineae — Figwort Family.

80. Veronica scutellata L., Marsh Speedwell. Margin of loch.

81. Vevonica Anagallis L., Water Speedwell. Margin of loch.

82. Veronica Beccabunga L., Brooklime. Margin of loch.

Natural Order Labiatae — Deadnettle Family.

83. Mentha aquatica L., Water Capitate Mint. Margin of loch.

84. Lamiiim amplexicaule L., Henbit Deadnettle. Hedge-bank at

Duddingston.

85. Lamium incisiim Willd., Cut-leaved Deadnettle. Hedge-bank

at Duddingston.

150 Craigmillar and its Environs.

Natural Order Chenopodiacese — Goosefoot Family.

86. Chenopodinm Bouus-Henricus L., Good King Henry or Mercury

Goosefoot. Craigmillar.

Natural Order Polygoneae — Buckwheat Family.

87. Rumex conglomeratus Murr., Sharp Dock. Margin of loch,

common.

88. Polygonum amphibium L., Amphibious Buckwheat. Abundant

in loch, both in shallow and deep water.

Natural Order Iridese — Iris Family.

89. Iris Pseud-acorns L., Yellow Water Iris. Margin of loch.

Natural Order Junceae — Rush Family,
go. Juncus effusus L., Common Soft Rush. Queen's Park and
Duddingston.

91. Juncus bufonuis L., Toad Rush. Margin of loch.

Natural Order Alismacese — Water-Plantain Family.

92. Alisma Plantago L., Greater Water-Plantain. Shallow and

deep water in loch, plentiful.

93. Butomus unihellatus L., Flowering Rush, Duddingston Loch,

not plentiful.

Natural Order Typhacese — Bulrush Family.

94. Sparganium ramosum Huds., Branched Bur-reed. East end of

loch, plentiful.

Natural Order Cyperacese — Sedge Family.

95. Eleocharis pahistris Br., Creeping Spike-rush. Duddingston

Loch, and wet places in Queen's Park.

Botany of the Craigmillar District. 151

96. Carex ovalis Good., Oval-spiked Carex. Margin of loch.

97. Cavex ripayia Curt., Great Common Carex. Margin of loch.

Natural Order Filices — Fern Family.

98. Asplenium septentvionale Hull, Forked Spleenwort. Arthur's

Seat and Samson's Ribs, not now plentiful.

99. Asplenium Ruta-muraria L., Wall-Rue. Abundant on old walls

about Queen's Park and Duddingston.

Natural Order Equisetaceae — Horse-tail Family.

100. Equisetum palustre L., Marsh Horse-tail. Margin of loch,
common.

[Grasses and Mosses, not included in the above list, are rather
plentiful in the district. About forty species of Grasses and over
twenty species of Mosses are given for this comparatively small
area in Balfour's ' Flora of Edinburgh,' though some of these are
no longer to be found there.]

152 Craigmillar and its Environs.

UI.

$fie; (peofoglear l^eat^rss.

The Craigmillar district has long been held to be
one of the most favoured spots in Scotland, from a
geologist's point of view. Few places, indeed, offer
to the geologist so many advantages, and afford such
a varied field for his investigations. Within a radius
of a few miles from Craigmillar Castle a section of
the earth's crust can be had embracing a series of
rock groups from the Lower Silurian to the upper
members of the Carboniferous System. It will thus
be evident that before we could have such a rich field
of observation laid out before us, within so limited
an area, the various agencies that have contributed
to bring about such remarkable results must neces-
sarily have been of a gigantic kind. The neighbour-

The Geological Features. 153

hood furnishes numerous examples of the violent
nature of these agencies, and the part they played in
the configuration of the surrounding country as we
now see it.

The greater part of the South of Scotland belongs
to the Lower Silurian system, the earlier beds of this
series of rocks forming the range of the Moorfoot Hills,
which border the southern extremity of the region we
propose including in our sketch of the geology of the
Craigmillar district. This system may be fairly taken
as representing the backbone on which the upper
groups of later deposits rest ; and from these beds of
the Lower Silurian we will ask the reader to accom-
pany us while we endeavour to explain the different
and successive measures as they occur — taking them
up, as far as possible, in their geological sequence.

Following this range in a westerly direction, the
Lower Silurian of the Moorfoots abuts against the
Pentlands, giving place to the upper members of the
same system, these again being surmounted by the
sandstones and grits of the Old Red Sandstone form-
ing this part of the Pentlands. The Pentlands them-

154 Craigmillar and its Environs.

selves, stretching in a north-easterly direction towards
the south of Edinburgh, are joined at their northern
end by the Braid and Blackford hills. The Pentlands
attain a considerable elevation, some parts being fully
igoo feet above sea-level. This range of hills plays
a very important part in the stratification of the
district, forming a great anticline, with its axis ex-
tending along the line of the ridge, and continuing
northwards till it reaches the sea, — its effect on the
strata being to alter the bedding, and cause it to dip
in an easterly and westerly direction from its sides.
On the east side of the anticline this alteration of the
strata is much augmented by a great fault or dislo-
cation which runs along the base and parallel with the
Pentlands, throwing up the lower beds of the Calcifer-
ous Sandstone series — i.e., the red-coloured sandstones
that rest on the top of the Old Red Sandstone.

The Carboniferous or coal-bearing rocks of Scotland
have been divided into four groups — namely : (i) The
Calciferous Sandstone series, which occupy the lowest
position ; (2) The Carboniferous Limestone series ;
(3) The Millstone Grit series ; and (4) The Upper
or Flat Coal-measures.

The Geological Features. 155

Each of these groups is well represented in the
neighbourhood of Craigmillar. Beginning with the
lowest of them, we have already seen how the strata
of the first or Calciferous Sandstone series have been
folded over the Pentland anticline, and the lower beds
of the same formation tilted up by the great fault on
the east side, so that instead of having the same strata
appearing on both sides of the anticline, those on the
east side are of a much earlier date. This formation
extends in a narrow belt or strip along the foot of the
Pentlands on its eastern side as far as Carlops,
running along the base of the Moorfoots, and turning
northwards by Borthwick and Roman Camp, eventu-
ally reaching the sea at Aberlady, and forming the
outer edge of the Mid-Lothian coal-basin. To the west
of Edinburgh, and west of the Pentland anticline, the
strata of this formation are more fully represented
than on the east side, the Pentland fault having
thrown out a considerable depth of strata in the latter,
so that we have the Burdiehouse Limestone, with a
comparatively thin section of strata intervening be-
tween it and the Gilmerton Limestone (the lower
limestone of the next series above), where, on the

156 Craigmillar and its Environs.

other hand, upwards of 2500 feet of strata occur
between the two hmestones on the west side. The
oil -shales, so extensively worked in Mid -Lothian
and Linlithgowshire, belong principally to this division
of the Calciferous Sandstone group, namely, between
the two limestones of Burdiehouse and Gilmerton.
The Carboniferous Limestone series — the next divi-
sion following the Calciferous Sandstone — begins in
the district with the Gilmerton Limestone — the
bottom limestone of the group. Above this other
two limestones occur ; following these, a series of
sandstones, with several workable seams of coal ;
then an ironstone ; and above these again, other
bands of limestone, forming the top of the group.
The coals and ironstones are extensively worked in
the neighbourhood of Loanhead, Gilmerton, and
Niddrie. Owing to the Pentland fault, the strata
adjoining it are highly inclined, and are known
locally as the " edge coals " ; above these comes
the third group of strata, known as the Millstone
Grit ; and finally, on the top of the Millstone Grit,
the last division of the Carboniferous System — the
Flat or true Coal-measures of the Dalkeith coal-field.

The Geological Features. 157

These four groups, as we have them east of Craig-
millar, form an immense basin, the northern side of
which is cut off by the sea. On the opposite or
Fife shore the strata again appear, and much in the
same order. Above the Carboniferous system no
rocks of a later date occur in the district — nothing,
in fact, till the deposits of the Glacial Period,
namely, boulder-clay and drift accumulations.

The Igneous Rocks of the district present a very
striking appearance in the landscape — Arthur's Seat,
a volcanic neck, with the basalt plug forming its
apex, probably of early Carboniferous age ; and the
high mural escarpment of Salisbury Crags, consisting
of dolerite ejected between strata of the Calciferous
Sandstone. This bed, as well as that known as the
St Leonard's Crag, were both ejected late in the
geological scale, and belong to Tertiary times. These
bold escarpments afford most important evidence of
the denudation of the district, with the characteristic
" crag-and-tail " of the different prominences, such
as the Castle Rock of Edinburgh, the Calton Hill,
and Salisbury Crags. The igneous rocks of the
Pentlands very probably had their origin during Old

158 Craigmillar and its Environs.

Red Sandstone times ; while there can be no doubt
that the porphyrites and felstones of the northern
end of the range were erupted during the close of the
deposition of the upper beds of the Old Red Sand-
stone and the beginning of the Carboniferous system.
The Mid-Lothian basin is comparatively free from
eruptive rocks, with the exception of a dyke that
cuts through the most northerly part of the basin,
and which, probably, is a continuation to the east
of one of the parallel dykes which traverse the mid-
land counties of Scotland west of Edinburgh.

The environs of Craigmillar and the adjacent
district afford ample scope to the collector of fossils,
nearly all the rocks we have mentioned being fossili-
ferous. The beds of the Lower Silurian system are
but sparingly fossiliferous, although they offer a good
field for the geologist, and will repay the labour of
those disposed to devote their time to this series of
strata. The Upper Silurian of the Pentlands has
yielded a goodly number of fossils. Some fossiliferous
beds of this formation occur at Nine-Mile-Burn, on
the Pentlands, south-west of Glencorse. The Old
Red Sandstone of the Pentlands, so far as known.

Tlic Geological Features.

159

is not fossiliferous. The Carboniferous rocks of the
neighbourhood are everywhere rich in fossil remains,

ScALK OF Fish {Rhizodus Hibbertii), Burdiehouse.
{Nat. size — Carbotiiferous.)

which are easily got at. The Burdiehouse Limestone,
a calciferous limestone, has long been a favourite
hunting-ground for Edinburgh geologists. The lime-
stone, being of an estuarine nature, contains many

i6o

Craigmillar and its Environs.

beautiful specimens of fish teeth, scales, &c., besides

Portion of Jaw of Fish {Rhizodus Hibbertii), Gilmerton.
[Half nat. size — Carboniferous.)

furnishing numerous fine forms of plant life, as ferns.

The Geological Features. i6i

lepidodendra, stigmaria, &c. The Gilmerton Lime-
stone, being higher in the scale, and a marine deposit,
furnishes many good specimens of corals, encrinites,
and shells. The coal workings in this group of strata
at Loanhead, Gilmerton, and Niddrie are all favour-
able places for the collector. The belt of strata
known as the Millstone Grit is, comparatively speak-
ing, unfossiliferous, few specimens being found in any
of the beds, and those which are present being
probably stragglers from the formation below. The
Upper Coal-measures of the Dalkeith coal-field are,
however, rich in fossil remains, and from the number
of pits, and the refuse-heaps of disused workings in
this group, many opportunities of securing specimens
are offered to the collector.

Those interested in the action of ice during the
Glacial Period will find numerous examples of glaci-
ation in the neighbourhood. Scarcely a projecting
rock, indeed, but shows unmistakable evidence of the
polishing it has undergone, the striae, in many cases,
being very fine. Good examples of this glacial action
are to be seen at Arthur's Seat, the top of Salisbury
Crags, and the Queen's Drive above Samson's Ribs,

1 62 Craigmillar and its Environs.

as well as along the ridge of the Pentlands. At the
south-west side of Arthur's Seat, where the Queen's
Drive passes between the main body of the hill and
the knoll above Samson's Ribs, some beautiful
examples of ice-worn rocks were exposed to view

Ice-worn Surface op Rock, Queen's Drive
(South-west side of Arthur's Seat).

during the construction of the roadway, part of
which can now be seen, on the left side of the road
going east, as shown in the above illustration.

The physical conditions of the district we have
been viewing, as, indeed, of the whole of the northern

The Geological Features. 163

hemisphere, during what is known as the Ice Age or
Glacial Period, must have been simply marvellous,
taxing the powers of the human imagination to con-
ceive of them. According to Sir Archibald Geikie,
"the high grounds of Britain were important enough
to have their own independent ice, which, as the striae
show, radiated outward, some of it passing westwards
into the Atlantic, and some of it eastward into the
North Sea." The mass of ice which thus moved over
Scotland, and south as far as Middlesex, at that period
was so great that the broad plains of Perthshire are
believed to have been filled up by it to a depth of
fully 2000 feet. The subject is too wide and technical
for any extended notice in a work such as the present ;
but there is now an extensive literature upon it,
notably Professor J. Geikie's classical work, 'The
Great Ice Age.' Several local geologists, also, have
described the glacial features of the Edinburgh dis-
trict, where, as we have already remarked, examples
of ice-action are numerous. The "deposits" of the
Glacial Period — the boulder-clay and drift — already
mentioned, are also numerous and well marked in
this district. Indeed, the greater part of the New

164 Craigmillar and its Eftvirons.

Town of Edinburgh is built on the boulder-clay.
Several examples of the huge blocks of stone, or
" travelled rocks," characteristic of the boulder-clay
deposit, are found in this neighbourhood, more par-
ticularly at the sea-shore, where they have often
proved a source of wonder to observers not acquainted
with their history. The boulder-clays, as well as the
whole subject of the natural features of this district
during successive geological periods, were described
by the late Hugh Miller, in his well-known picturesque
style, in two lectures delivered to the members of the
Edinburgh Philosophical Institution. These lectures
are now included in a posthumous volume entitled
' Edinburgh and its Neighbourhood.'

Before concluding this short sketch of the geo-
logical features of the Craigmillar district, a few words
may be said regarding the Craigmillar building-stone.
Craigmillar sandstone has been quarried for centuries
— the castle and other buildings in the district, in-
cluding the older portion of The Inch House, having
been built from it. In the erection of George Square,
the Regent Bridge, the barracks at Piershill, the
Edinburgh Water Company's reservoirs, and many

The Geological Features. 165

edifices in the New Town, Craigmillar stone was
used. In this age of haste and competition the
stone is regarded as being too hard for architectural
purposes ; indeed, few smiths can now temper
tools to withstand its adamantine nature. It is,
however, unequalled for the building of dwelling-
houses, being almost impervious to damp, a block of
stone weighing practically no heavier after being
steeped for days in water than it did when dry. It is
also very useful for dock purposes, in consequence of
its power of resistance to the action of salt water,
and large contracts for its use have from time to time
been entered into when harbours were about to be
constructed. In the ' History of George Heriot's
Hospital,' by William Steven, we are informed that,
in the erection of that edifice, part of the material
was brought from Craigmillar quarry. What is more
remarkable is, that the stones were drawn in " cairts "
by "wemen." "It must not be supposed," says the
above-named writer, " that females were generally
put to such servile and shocking work in the seven-
teenth century. . . . These women were hardened
offenders, upon whom every kind of Church censure

i66 Craigmillar and its Environs.

had been fruitlessly expended." In those days there
were no houses of correction, and the magistrates
apparently tried the effect of public exposure. To
prevent the prisoners' escape locks and shackles were
used, and men to watch over them.

There are several disused quarries around Craig-
millar, some of which have been filled up with refuse
from the city. To the north-west, but in close
proximity to the castle, are two large excavations
from which stones for the building of the docks at
Leith were taken, — a line of railway running into both,
and the rails being lifted at the termination of the
contract. One of the quarries is still worked ; while
in the case of the other, buildings have been erected
in it for the manufacture of rockets. That well-known
writer, Dr Robert Chambers, in his ' Picture of Scot-
land,' says : " There is a popular tradition that the
stone used in the earliest construction of Edinburgh
Castle was taken from Craigmillar. It is still further
affirmed that it was built by the Picts, and that, in
the want of wheeled carriages, these indefatigable
artificers — who, by the way, get the credit in Scotland
of building all old or stupendous public works — trans-

The Geological Features.

167

ported the stone in their hands, a Hne of carriers
being planted all the way between the quarry and
the castle, and each individual handing the huge lump
forward to his next neighbour, who in his turn sent
it still farther on towards its destination." If the
Picts, unlike the builders of the Pyramids, possessed
no mechanical contrivances, the labour of transporting
blocks of stone by hand from Craigmillar quarry to
the top of the Castle rock at Edmburgh, must have
been efreat indeed!

Carboniferous Fern
{Sphenopteris affifiis), Burdiehouse (Nat. size.\

1 68 Crai^millar and its Environs.

UII.

$fie: inuIroKS of (^raigmiffQr.

As indicated in a previous chapter, a magnificent
panorama meets the gaze of the observer from the
battlements of Craigmihar Castle. Dr Begg, in his
Statistical Account of the parish in 1839, says of
the castle: "It is the heart of Mid-Lothian, and
there is not in Britain a more commanding view of
rich and varied scenery, including wood, water, a
fine city, and a richly cultivated country, than ma}-
be got from it." We propose in what follows to take
up in order some of the salient features which thus
come under our notice from this coign of vantage.

The Inch. — Looking westward from the battle-
ments of Craigmillar, a view of The Inch House can
be obtained, peeping out from amongst the trees.

The Environs of Craigniillar

169

" Inch," as is well known, signifies an island, and at
one time the house was surrounded by water, the

The Inch House as it was.

access to it being by means of a drawbridge. Even
within recent years, after exceptionally heavy rains

170 Craigmillar and its Environs.

the surrounding parks have been so extensively inun-
dated as to resemble a lake. From a charter granted
in the fourteenth century, The Inch appears to have
belonged to the Abbey of Holyrood. The oldest
date on the house is 161 7, above a doorway, which
was the original and only entrance at that period.
The date 1634 also appears above a window on
the lower part of the house, indicating that it must
have been an addition. The initials of Winram,
descended from the Winrams of Clydesdale, show
that it belonged to that family. Besides The Inch,
they were possessors of Nether Liberton and part
of Over Liberton. The right of the north aisle in
the kirk was ratified to Winrame of Liberton in
1621.^ George Winram of Liberton, son of James
Winram of Liberton, was admitted advocate on 20th
December 1626. He undertook in 1639 the some-
what dangerous task of presenting to the king, at
London, the Act of the General Assembly which
abolished Episcopacy, to which the king replied,
" When they have broken my head they will put
^ ' Index to Scottish Acts of Parliament,' p. 779.

^^ ^, \f

rilnf

, ■ '^ . i

The Ejtvirons of Craigmillar, 171

on my cowl." Mr Winram did considerable service
to the cause of the Covenant during his residence
in England. He was one of the Commissioners
for the county of Edinburgh in the Parliaments of
1643 and 1649, and a member of the various com-
mittees of estate and war which were formed from
time to time. He was appointed colonel of one of
the regiments in the army ordered to be raised for
the defence of the country in February 1649, and
in the following month was sent by the General
Assembly to accompany the Commissioners from
the Estates appointed to treat with Charles H.,
then in Holland, as to the terms on which he could
be allowed to assume the government of Scotland.
Mr Winram was a second time sent, in November
1649, as the bearer of a letter from the Estates
urging Charles to comply with their requests. He
was admitted as an Ordinary Lord, under the title
of Lord Liberton, on 22d June 1649, immediately
after his first return from the Continent.

Lord Liberton took part in the Battle of Dunbar
on September 3, 1650, and was so severely wounded

172

Craigmillar and its E7wirons.

Seat, and
cessively oc-
the Braids, and

that he died eight days afterwards. August 1650
must have been an exciting time for the^^^^M
inhabitants of Craicrmillar and its en- MMwIm^m
virons. Cromwell is beleaguering the ^^^^^fff
city. General Leslie has it strongly /"^^L.
defended — his troops and cannon sit- / ./
uated on the Calton Hill, Arthur's m(?
Salisbury Crags. Cromwell sue- A,^/
cupies Musselburgh, Niddrie, Jf^"
the Pentlands. Skirmishes A"^ / occur every day.
Parleys, too, are frequently ///^ held on Bruntsfield
Links and the Borough- /// moor, with no satis-
factory result. To //^ Cromwell's disgust, cau-
tious David Leslie //^ is not to be drawn from
his strong posi- ///^ tion. The castle defends
the west side /y^ of the city. Eventually Crom-
well has to ///^ fall back on Dunbar for supplies.
Before he /// has passed Niddrie, General Leslie's
cannon /// is hurrying his march by thundering
away // from the heights of Craigmillar. After
the / / battle, Cromwell, in his brief despatches to
the /-/ Speaker of the English Parliament, dated

The Environs of Craiginillar. 173

4th September 1650, says : " What officers of theirs
of quahty are killed we cannot yet learn, but surely
divers are ; and many men of quality are mortally
wounded, as Colonel Lumsden, the Lord Liberton,
and others." In The Inch House is carefully treasured
a sword which is said to have belonged to Oliver Crom-
well. An inscription on the blade records the follow-
ing : " Belonged to Oliver Cromwell, Lord Protector,
Naseby Battle, June 14, 1646 ; Dunbar Battle,
September 3, 1650. Praise to the Lord of Hosts."

The Inch was acquired by the Gilmours about
the same time that they bought Craigmillar, but when
they came to reside there does not appear to be
recorded. Various additions were made to the house
at the beginning of this century, but the present pro-
prietor demolished the greater part of these, and recon-
structed it in the old baronial style, in 1891-92.

Up till very recently there stood at the side of
the western avenue of The Inch a group of pictu-
resque old thatched cottages, which formed the sub-
ject of many an artist's canvas. These cottages were
a remnant of the village of Nether Liberton. This

174

Craicrmillar and its Environs.

village stood on both sides of the Braid Burn, and,
like many other villages, contained a cross, all traces
of which have long since disappeared. Formerly the
village was of considerable size, as in 1786 it con-

^-:-i<.<y'^t"''^'''-

mmms^

i^.

Old Cottages at The Inch.
tained nearly three hundred inhabitants. The mill
at Nether Liberton is of great antiquity, it being
on record that the " soir sanct," David I., bestowed
it upon the monks of Holyrood, as a tithe thereof,
with thirty cart-loads from the bush of Liberton ;

The Environs of Craigmillar.

175

and that Robert the Bruce, in 1326, granted to the
monastery of the Blackfriars in Edinburgh six merks,
and enjoined them to be paid out of his mill at
Nether Liberton.

Close to the western entrance to The Inch stands
a large dovecot, indicative of proximity to the resi-

Dovecot and Mii,l-Dam, Nether IvIberton.

dence of the Lord of the Barony. About three hundred
years ago no one was allowed to erect a dovecot except
owners of land. Thus, on the 28th of June 1617 an
Act of Parliament was passed ordaining that no person

176 Craigmillar and its Environs.

should have power, Hberty, or privilege to build a
dovecot upon any lands except those who have lands
and teinds pertaining to him, extending in yearly rent
to ten chalders victual adjacent to the said dovecot,
and one dovecot only to be built within said bounds.

"Good's Corner," Nether Liberton.

Stringent Acts were also passed against breakers,
destroyers, and robbers of dovecots. The dovecot
above referred to stands by the side of a dam for
storing water to supply the ancient mill of Nether
Liberton with water-power.

To the west of Nether Liberton is the Borough-
moor of old, where the forces of Edward III., led

The Environs of Craigniillav. 177

by Guy, Count of Namure, were routed by the Scotch
under the Earl of Murray and WiUiam de Douglas
in 1336 ; and also where James IV. reviewed his troops
prior to his departure for the fatal field of Flodden ;
but which bids fair at no distant date to be covered
by houses, a large portion of it being already built
upon. West from Nether Liberton may be seen the
red sandstone gateway which commemorates the
achievement of the Lord Provost of that date. Sir
George Harrison, of acquiring in 1884, as a public
park for the citizens of Edinburgh, the Blackford
Hill, so indissolubly associated with Sir Walter
Scott's " Marmion," as in the following lines: —

" Suffice it that the route was laid
Across the furzy hills of Braid.
They passed the glen and scanty rill,
And climbed the opposing bank, until
They gained the top of Blackford Hill."

A site has been chosen on Blackford Hill for the
erection of a National Scottish Observatory. This
building, with its magnificent telescope from Dunecht
and other astronomical and electrical instruments,

178 Craigmillar and its Environs.

bequeathed to Government for this purpose by the
late Earl of Crawford and Balcarres, has been de-
signed by Mr W. W. Robertson, of H.M.'s Board of
Works, and will be one of the finest and most com-
plete erections of the kind in the country.

LiBERTON. — To the south lie Liberton village.
Upper Liberton, Liberton House, and Liberton
Tower, which were all included in the barony of
Over Liberton, and are interesting in their historical
associations. We shall take up these parts of the
ancient barony in their order ; and first, of the village
itself. Seen from afar, on the crown of the hill, is
the handsome parish church of Liberton, re-erected
in 1815. There are records of Liberton still extant
which date back to the days of David I., some of
these being witnessed by a Baron of Liberton named
Macbeth. In the village stands the old school-
master's house, the supposed residence of Reuben
Butler in Sir Walter Scott's 'Heart of Mid-Lothian.'
Well into the present century, and within the memory
of persons still living, on Fastern's-e'en the school at
Liberton was for the nonce converted into a cock-

The Environs of Craigmillar. 179

pit. Every boy in the advanced classes was expected
to furnish a bird to take part in this cruel pastime.
The first prize was a Bible, and the second a Testa-
ment ! The birds killed in the fight became the

^^^'

IvIBERTON FROM THE BOROUGHMOOR.

perquisite of the schoolmaster. It seems scarcely
credible that such a comparatively short time only
should have elapsed since these barbarous practices
prevailed. It may be remembered that Hugh Miller,

Craiz^nillar and its Environs.

in his charming autobiographical work, ' My Schools
and Schoolmasters,' gives a graphic account of similar
scenes in his boyhood. It is certainly matter for
thankfulness that nowadays such "sport" is confined
to the lowest stratum of society, and that amongst
our youth the cock-fights, which were annual events

LiBERTON InDUSTRIAI^ SCHOOL.

in most of the parochial schools in Scotland, have
given place to healthy athletic sports.

On the south side of the village stands the
Industrial School. Nearly a century has elapsed
since John Pounds, the poor cobbler of Ports-

The Environs of Craigniillnr.

mouth, put into execution the novel idea of col-
lecting the street arabs into his little workroom,
sometimes holding out the bait of a roasted potato
to induce them to enter, with the view of teaching
them to read. It was a print hanging in a village
inn, representing this cobbler's room, and John
Pounds sitting with an old shoe between his knees,
looking over his spectacles on a number of ragged
boys and girls who stood round him with lesson-
book in hand, that first aroused the interest of Dr
Guthrie, and stirred him up to take such a promi-
nent part in the work of ragged-schools. That far-
seeing Scottish clergyman realised the truth of the
adage that " prevention is better than cure," and that
a small expenditure on schools was a wiser invest-
ment than spending large sums on jails. An associa-
tion was therefore formed to reclaim the children of
the lapsed masses, and endeavour to check crime at
the fountain-head by giving such children the benefits
of education, and training them to habits of industry.
It is now nearly half-a-century since the Industrial
School was instituted at the Castlehill, in Edinburgh ;

1 82 Craigmillar and its Environs.

and in 1887 the building at Liberton was opened by
the present Earl of Hopetoun, when Lord High
Commissioner to the General Assembly of the Church
of Scotland. Not only do the children here receive
moral and religious teaching, but when aptitude for
any special trade or profession is displayed, it receives
the fullest encouragement. An efficient music-teacher
and band-master are kept ; and a brass band, and
also a band of pipers, are trained in the establishment
— their services at public entertainments being in
frequent demand, both in England and Scotland.

Proceeding now to speak shortly of Upper Liber-
ton, it would be superfluous to trace all the pro-
prietors of the barony, which appears frequently to
have changed hands, and goes back to an early
date. In the ' Register of the Great Seal ' it is
stated that on 8th March 1475 the king concedes
to Alexander Dalmahoy the lands of the Barony
of Uvir Libertoune. The Dalmahoys of that ilk
possessed Upper Liberton as early as the year
1453, and continued in possession of it, or at least
a part of it, for almost two hundred years. We

The Environs of Craigmillar. 183

also learn from writings in the custody of the present
laird that Robert Dalmahoy, with consent of his
wife, Janet Robertson, granted a charter of certain
lands in Upper Liberton to Thomas Levyntoune,
burgess in Edinburgh, dated August 13, 1455. Again
quoting from the ' Register of the Great Seal,' it is
stated that on 4th May 1536 the king confirms the
charter of Henry Cant of Over Liberton to Henry
Creighton of Riccarton of the superiority of the man-
sion, tower, and fortalice of Over Liberton, with
houses and gardens, vulgarly called " the Serjandis
land." These lands lie to the south of the road
leading to Blackford quarry. A charter of them
was granted by King David H. to David Libbertoun,
along with the office of " Sergandrie of the overward
of the constabularie of Edinburgh."

The Dalmahoys, it appears, retained a portion
of the barony, as we find by a charter dated 15th
July 1528 that Alexander Dalmahoy of that ilk
granted to Clement Little, burgess of Edinburgh,
and Elizabeth Fisher, his spouse, a merk land of
the two-merk lands called Rinzeanis, on the resigna-

184 Craigmillar and its Environs.

tion of Henry Cant of Over Liberton. This Clement
was father of Mr Clement Little, advocate, and
William Little, merchant in, and Provost of, Edin-
burgh. The Littles were men of great influence,
were much esteemed in Edinburgh, and at length
became proprietors of the whole barony of Upper
Liberton, which is still held intact by their direct
descendant, Captain Gordon Gilmour. Clement
Little in 1563 was appointed a Commissioner for
trial of ecclesiastical complaints in Edinburgh, and in
1567 was one of three appointed procurators to defend,
and pursue, all actions pertaining to the Kirk/ In the
' History of the University of Edinburgh ' it is stated
that Clement Little, advocate, and one of the Com-
missioners of Edinburgh, bequeathed his books on
Theology and Law to that university. The Town
Council accepted this gift, and on 14th October
1580 the books were presented by William Little,
each volume being stamped with the arms of his
brother, and with the words, " I am gevin to Edin-
burgh and kirk of God be Maister Clement Litil,
^ Calderwood's ' History.'

Tlie Environs of Craigniillar. 185

thar to remain, 1580." These books are still in
good preservation. In Pitcairn's ' Criminal Trials '
(p. 261) it is stated that William Little, Provost
of Edinburgh, was on commission for examining
witches in 1587.

On 2d June 1592 Mr Walter Balcanquall, in his
sermon, charged the king and nobility with great
negligence of their duties. The king requested the
Lords of the Articles to agree to an Act against
such liberty of speech, and to a commission to some
special magistrates to pull the ministers out of the
pulpit when they spoke after that manner. He
directed his speech specially to William Little, who
was then Provost. Mr Little, however, replied,
" Sir, you may discharge me of my office if you
please, but that I cannot do." " What ! " said the
king; "will you prefer them to me?" "I will
prefer God before man," said the Provost. On the
17th December 1596 William Little, along with
Walter Balcanquall and other nine persons, were
apprehended for " the treasonable and seditious
stirring up and moving of the treasonable tumult

M 2

1 86 Craigmillar and its Environs.

and uproar that was in the Burgh of Edinburgh,"
and were lodged in the Castle.

William, the Provost, had two sons, Clement and
William. Clement died without issue, and William
became proprietor. He was succeeded by his son,
also William, who acquired the entire barony by a
purchase from Mr George Winram in 1641. The
barony of Liberton appears to have previously been
equally divided between them, as at the valuation
of the teinds in 1630, exactly the same number of
bolls of victual were assigned to each proprietor.
He died in 1662, and was succeeded by his son,
William, whose wife strongly favoured the Cove-
nanters. In Fountainhall's ' Historical Notices ' (p.
664) it is stated that on 25th May 1685 Little of
Liberton's lady was one of the martyrs during the
persecution. She was imprisoned for harbouring
conventiclers, but on his entering prison for her, she
was liberated.

It was in the time of this proprietor, W^illiam
Little, that the present Liberton House was built,
in 1675. This edifice has from time to time been

The Environs of Craigniillar.

187

modernised, by which "improvements" its steeply
pitched roof was destroyed, and its crow-stepped
gables were hidden beneath a mass of superincumbent
masonry. It still
presents, with but
slight change, the
usual characteristics
of the " single "
house of the 17th
century — a type of
building of which
the author of ' The
Heart of Mid-
Lothian' speaks
somewhat disparag-
ingly. Owing to its
sequestered situation
and apparently un-
eventful history, Liberton House is still comparatively
unknown. Until quite recently, even those who lived
under its roof had no suspicion of the many features
of interest that lay concealed under modern plaster

Peep of Liberton House.

Crai^millar and its Environs.

and woodwork. These features, with the hearty ap-
proval and co-operation of the proprietor, have been
gradually brought to light by the present tenant, Mr
Godfrey G. Cunninghame, and the house now appears
much as it may have done in its palmy days, while
still the country residence of the family who owned
it. Very interesting to the antiquarian are the great
fireplaces, as well as the " squints," " shutter-board"
windows, and other curious arrangements for defence
or for guarding against sudden surprise — the latter
especially being a very necessary provision in those
troublous times. The doorways, framed in hammer-
nigged stone of the hardest grain, and the quaint
specimens of iron-work, are all preserved in their
ancient form, visibly connecting the present with the
past. The illustration presents one of the salient
features of the western elevation, a rectangular turret
boldly corbelled out from the circular staircase which
it surmounts, and terminating in a crow-stepped gable
of acute pitch.

William Little, who built Liberton House, had
no family, and when he died in 1686 the estate was

Wm. Charles Little of Liberton.

The Environs of Crai^niillar

entailed upon his nephew, Wilham Rankine, who
assumed the name of Little, and married Helen,
daughter of Sir Alexander Gilmour of Craigmillar,
by whom he had only one child, Grizel. Dying in
1714, he was succeeded by his eldest brother, Gabriel,
as heir male; and he dying in 1737, was in turn
succeeded by his son, Walter Little of Liberton, who
married his cousin, Grizel Little, and died in 1758.
His son, William Charles Little of Liberton, suc-
ceeded to the Craigmillar property on the death of
Sir Alexander Gilmour in 1792, and took the name
of Little Gilmour of Liberton and Craigmillar.
William Charles Little was an advocate in Edin-
burgh, and a member of the Society of the Antiquaries
of Scotland. He displayed considerable literary
ability, and interesting contributions from his pen, in-
cluding " A Historical Account of the Hammermen
of Edinburgh from their Records," and " An Inquiry
into the Expedients used by the Scots before the
Discovery of Metals," are recorded in the ' Proceed-
ings ' of the Society referred to.

We have little or no record as to when Liberton

I go

Craigmillar and its Environs.

Tower was built, or by whom. Messrs M 'Gibbon
and Ross, in their valuable work on the ' Castellated
and Domestic Architecture of Scotland,' state that it
is a simple keep of the fifteenth century, though, from

LiBERTON Tower.
the extreme plainness of its form, and its generally
frail and dilapidated condition, it is frequently assigned
to a much earlier period. The simple quadrilateral
outline is quite usual, and the internal arrangements

The Environs of Craigmillar. igi

are somewhat similar to those of Lochleven Castle,
associated with memories of Queen Mary. Liberton
Tower is divided into two by a semicircular vault in
the centre, above which is the hall. The ground-floor
is very low in the roof, and has probably been used for
sheltering cattle. It has now a separate outer door,
but formerly had no communication except through
the upper rooms by a hatch in the floor above. The
upper portion is also vaulted with a pointed barrel
vault, which carries the stone roof and battlements.
Those who have visited the Tower will have noticed
that there have been intermediate floors, the oak
beams resting on corbels. The principal entrance to
the Tower is on the level of the hall, on the east side
of the building, fifteen feet from the ground, and must
have been reached by a ladder. There is no properly
formed stair to the parapet, which would no doubt
be reached by a wooden stair inside, leading to the
top door in the east gable. The inmates seem to have
depended entirely on its strength for security, the
parapet being carried up flush with the walls, and
having no corbelling or machicolations through which

192 Craiginillar and its Environs.

stones or other missiles could be dropped upon assail-
ants. The only thing in the shape of ornament in the
Tower is the sideboard of the hall in the south wall,
which has an ogee-headed opening, and is clearly in-
dicative of the fifteenth century. As already noted.

View from the Braids.

the Dalmahoys of that ilk possessed Over Liberton
as early as 1453, and antiquarians are of opinion
that the Tower was in all probability built by that
family.

The Braids. — To the west of the Barony of Over

The Environs of Craigmillar. 193

Liberton are the Braid Hills, covered on some parts

by thick patches of whins. A portion of them was

purchased by the city of Edinburgh in i8go for a

course on which the inhabitants might indulge in the

game of golf. The southern part of the hill has also

been leased from Colonel Trotter of Mortonhall for the

same purpose by an Edinburgh club. The hill is even

yet wild and romantic, and from the higher parts a

magnificent and most extensive view can be obtained,

of which no more graphic description could be given

than that by Sir Walter Scott : —

" But northward far, with purer blaze,
On Ochil mountains fell the rays,
And as each heathy top they kissed,
It gleamed a purple amethyst.
Yonder the shores of Fife you saw ;
Here Preston Bay and Berwick Law :

And, broad between them rolled.
The gallant Frith the eye might note.
Whose islands on its bosom float.

Like emeralds chased in gold."

In a hollow on the hill, at the march between the town
property and that of Colonel Trotter, is a very pretty
natural pond, much frequented at night by wild-fowl.

194

Craigmillar and its Environs.

Another on the south side is called Elf's Kirk, denot-
ing the place where the fairies assembled.

, MoRTONHALL. — To the south of the Braid Hills lies
Mortonhall, already referred to. Situated in a hollow,
it cannot be seen from a distance, but a little to the

MORTONHAI.L.

west is the elevated ground, now covered with wood,
called Galach-law, famous for the encampment of
Oliver Cromwell's army, which consisted of no less
than 16,000 men. In the reign of James III. Morton-

The Environs of Craigmillar. 195

hall belonged to the St Clairs of Roslin, and came into
possession of the ancestors of the present laird about
1 64 1. The Trotters are an old family, dating back to
the reigns of Robert II. and Robert III. of Scotland.
The present branch is descended from Thomas Trotter,
proprietor of the estates of Foulshaw, Catchelraw, and
Kilnhill, in Berwickshire. The first Baron of Morton-
hall was John Trotter, who was a stanch loyalist
in the time of Charles II. He died in 1641, and was
succeeded by his eldest son, John, who was also a
steady loyalist, and was fined ^500 sterling for assist-
ing the Marquis of Montrose. After ten successive
barons, the second son of the last one was Richard
Trotter, who died in 1793, and was succeeded by his
grandson, Richard Trotter, father of the present
proprietor, Henry Trotter, Colonel of the Grenadier
Guards.

The Balm Well. — At St Catherine's is still to
be seen the famous " Balm well," which in bygone
days of superstition was believed to possess a healing-
virtue for skin diseases. At the request of James VI.
the well was in 161 7 greatly adorned, a door and

ig6 Craigmillar and its Environs.

staircase made to it, and fenced with masonry from
top to bottom. It Avas, however, completely wrecked
by Cromwell's soldiers in 1650, and though after-
wards restored, it never appeared again to the same
advantage. A black oily substance floats on the
surface of the well still, as it did of old, and is trace-
able to the exudation of the shale, which, as is well
known, is abundant in the district.

BuRDiEHOusE and Straiton. — Burdiehouse, it is
asserted, is a corruption of " Bourdeaux " house, so
called from some of the French retainers who came
to Scotland with Queen Mary taking up their resi-
dence there. An abundance of limestone is found
in the district, which is extensively worked by Sir
David Baird, and with considerable success. As
indicated in a previous chapter, there are found
embedded in the limestone numerous specimens of
plant and animal remains, which are extremely in-
teresting to geologists. Straiton is one of those quiet
uninteresting places through which the old coach-road
to Penicuik, Peebles, and the South of Scotland
passed. As the result of operations carried on by

The Environs of Cvaiguiillar. 197

the Clippens and Straiton oil-companies, the amenity
of the district has been hterally destroyed and the
social conditions of the locality entirely changed within
the last quarter of a century, it being now the centre
of a large mining population.

The Pentlands. — The Pentland range, seen so
conspicuously from Craigmillar, runs in a south-
westerly direction into Peeblesshire. Its geological
features have already been noticed in the chapter
on that subject. The farthest point of the range
within sight caps the undulating plain called Rullion
Green, where the defeat of the Covenanters took
place on 28th November 1666. The insurgents, led
by Colonel James Wallace, were resting themselves
as they best could, when suddenly they beheld
General Dalziel's army approaching. The Royal
troops were at once led to the assault. The Cove-
nanters behaved with courage, and twice repulsed
the attacks of the Royalists, but, as might be ex-
pected, nine hundred half-disciplined and ill-armed
men could not cope with three thousand well-equipped
soldiers led by an officer of Dalziel's experience. Fifty

igS Craiginillar and its Environs.

of the Covenanters were killed, and over a hundred

made prisoners. The slain were buried at Rullion

Green, an old monument still marking the spot. In

1858 the late Lord-President Inglis took steps to

preserve this memorial, erected to the memory of the

martyrs who fell in the Pentland Rising. On one

side of it an inscription in rugged verse records —

" A cloud of witnesses lie here,
Who for Christ's interests did appear,
For to restore true Liberty,
O'erturned them by tyranny :
These heroes fought with great renown ;
By falling got the martyr's crown!"

The reverse side of the monument appears as in the
accompanying illustration. For a number of years
an open-air religious service has been held annually
at Rullion Green, large numbers from the surrounding
district being often present. The scene on a summer
Sabbath afternoon, in this retired historic spot, is
peculiarly solemn and impressive, as the wail of some
old Scottish psalm-tune rises into the still air, or the
cadences of the preacher's voice die away among the
surrounding hills. The mingled features of the land-

To:viBSTONR IN MEMORY OK Tn;c Covenantp:rs.

The Environs of Craigmillav. igg

scape and the reverent congregation combine to make
up just such a picture as the late Sir George Harvey
would have loved to paint.

Among the most prominent of those who took
part in the Pentland Rising was a young clergyman
named Hugh M'Kail, son of Matthew M'Kail, the
ousted minister of Bothwell. This young man was
remarkable for his learning and impressive eloquence.
In the last sermon he preached prior to the 8th
September 1662, the day fixed by Parliament for
the removal of the nonconforming ministers of the
city, he referred to the persecution to which the
Church was being subjected, remarking that the
Church and people of God had been harassed by
a Pharaoh upon the throne, a Haman in the State,
and a Judas in the Church. For these remarks he
was adjudged a traitor, and a party of dragoons was
sent out to Moredun, near Liberton, a seat of Sir
James Stewart's, to apprehend him ; but he made his
escape, and remained for a time in concealment in his
father's house at Bothwell. In November 1666, as
already said, he took a prominent part in the Pentland

200 Craigmillar and its Environs.

Rising, but the day before the battle of RulUon Green
he was in such a state of weakness and prostration
that he was obhged to leave his comrades at Colinton.
On his way to Liberton he was apprehended in
passing over the Braid Hills, and committed prisoner
to the Tolbooth of Edinburgh. After being subjected
to that terrible instrument of torture, the "boot,"
in which his leg was shattered with eleven strokes of
the mallet without extorting the sort of confession that
was wanted, he was condemned for high treason, and
hanged at the cross of Edinburgh. On the scaffold
he spoke with such impressive eloquence to the vast
assemblage, and with so rapturous a confidence of
his future happiness, that there was scarcely a dry
eye among the numerous spectators. At subsequent
executions of the ringleaders amongst the Cove-
nanters, the authorities caused drums to be beaten
and trumpets to be sounded in order to drown the
last words of these resolute men.

WooDHousELEE. — Near to Rullion Green is the
site of Old Woodhouselee, which in 1570 belonged
to Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh, in right of his wife.

The Environs of Craigmillar. 201

The estate, however, had been confiscated, and part
of it bestowed on Sir James Bellenden, Lord Justice-
Clerk, who was a favourite of Regent Murray, then
in power. Sir James seized upon the house, and
turned out Hamilton's wife, with her infant child,
in a cold November night, into the open fields, where
before morning she became insane. Wounded to
the quick by this inhuman act, Bothwellhaugh vowed
to be revenged, resolving at last to wait till his enemy
should pass through Linlithgow, on his way from
Stirling to Edinburgh. Having secretly introduced
himself, with his carbine, into an empty house favour-
able for his purpose, he barred the doors and windows
looking to the street, and placed a fleet horse ready
saddled at the back. Murray got a hint that danger
lurked in this street, but considered it cowardly to
turn, and kept on his way. Amid the vast assemblage
he rode slowly past the fatal house, which gave Both-
wellhaugh an opportunity for taking aim. He fired,
and the Regent fell, mortally wounded. The soldiers
rushed furiously at the door, but ere they could
force an entrance Bothwellhaugh had escaped.

N 2

202 Craigmillar and its Environs.

" 'Mid pennoned spears, a steely grove,
Proud Murray's plumage floated high ;
Scarce could his trampling charger move,
So close the minions crowded nigh.

From the raised vizor's shade his eye.
Dark-rolling, glanced the ranks along ;
And his steel truncheon, waved on high,
Seemed marshalling the iron throng.

But yet his saddened brow confessed
A passing shade of doubt and awe ;
Some fiend was whispering in his breast,
' Beware of injured Bothwellhaugh ! '

The death-shot parts — the charger springs —
Wild rises tumult's startling roar,
And Murray's plumy helmet rings —
Rings on the ground, to rise no more."

The Sheriff-court offices now stand on the site of the
house from which the Regent was shot, and a memorial
tablet in bronze, designed by Sir Noel Paton, R.S.A.,
has been inserted into the building to mark the spot.
This tablet contains a portrait of the Regent. The car-
bine— the barrel of which is of brass, and a small bore —
is now in the possession of Lord Hamilton of Dalziel.
Several centuries have passed since old Wood-

The Environs of Craigmillar. 203

houselee ceased to be inhabited, although there are
traditions of historic interest associated with it which
still survive among the readers of Scottish story.
Some of the stones from the ancient edifice were
utilised in making additions to the present mansion-
house of Woodhouselee, which was formerly known
as the Tower of Fulford, and is about three miles
distant from the ruins of old Woodhouselee. It is
now the residence of James William Fraser-Tytler,
Esq. Tradition asserts that both houses have been
haunted by the ghost of Lady Bothwellhaugh, who
appears customarily in white, and invariably carrying
a child in her arms.

The Tytler family has produced several eminent
men in their generation. Of these may be mentioned
Lord Woodhouselee, one of the Senators of the
College of Justice, who is still remembered as the
author of the ' Life of Lord Kames ' and other
literary works ; while his father, William Tytler,
wrote a book of some importance in vindication of
Queen Mary. The son of Lord Woodhouselee,
again, Patrick Fraser - Tytler, advocate, was the

204

Craigmillar and its Environs.

author of the well-known and valuable ' History of
Scotland ' connected with his name. The late pro-
prietor, James Stuart Fraser-Tytler, was for a number
of 3'ears Professor of Conveyancing
in the University of Edinburgh.

At Woodhouselee is to be seen
a gold watch and jewelled soli-
taire which belonged to Queen
Mary of Scots, and were given by
her to Massi, a French attendant
who followed her to Scotland.
They were treasured by his de-
scendants, and were for long the
property of the family of Scott,
chemists in Edinburgh, by the last of whom, Mrs
Robert Scott, they were left to her brother, the Rev.
William Torrance, minister of the parish of Glencorse.
His son, the Rev. Alexander Torrance, bequeathed
them to the late James Stuart Fraser-Tytler. In the
year 1767, Lord Cardross, afterwards Earl of Buchan,
borrowed them from Dr J. Scott, to take with him
to the Conference in Spain. In a letter dated 1804,

Solitaire.
(Worn by Queen Mar3\)

The Environs of Craigniillar.

205

Lord Buchan mentions that in an original portrait
of Queen Mary in his possession, she is represented
as wearing the sohtaire.

The estate of Woodhouselee, it may be added,
is very picturesque and interesting, and memories of
Allan Ramsay and other celebrities of a bygone age
still linger about its shady walks and retired nooks.

Queen Mary's Watch, at Woodhouselee.
{Same size as original.)

2o6 Craigmillar and its Environs.

UIII.

In our concluding chapter we invite the reader once
more to take a survey of the picturesque landscape
from the battlements of the famous ruin. Immedi-
ately north of Craigmillar, and under the shadow of
Arthur's Seat, lies the village of Duddingston, with
its loch. It is recorded that large forests formerly
existed near Duddingston, which afforded shelter to
Sir William Wallace and his bold companions when
on their way to attack Berwick. In the village may
still be seen the house in which Prince Charlie slept
the night before the battle of Prestonpans, in 1745.
This house at that period belonged to Mr Home, a
farmer. For more than a month the Chevalier's
forces were encamped by the brook side, in what

Proximate Landscape. 207

is now known as the policies, both before and after
he defeated General Cope. Duddingston at one
time was owned by a family named Thomson, one
of whom was made a baronet by Charles I. in
1637. It was acquired by the Duke of Lauderdale
in 1674, and passed with his daughter to the first
Duke of Argyle, to whom she was married. In
1745 it was sold to the Earl of Abercorn ; and in
1768, the house, which is a beautiful specimen of
Grecian architecture, was built, after a design by Sir
William Chambers. The pleasure-grounds which
surround it were also planned with great taste, and
with the house cost ;^30,ooo. The late Mr Robert
Forsyth described it as " an example of all that
money or art can do to adorn a merely flat surface
through which a small stream of water naturally runs ;
clumps, groves, canals, lakes, isles, cascades, shrub-
bery, serpentine walks, and spreading lawns. In every
corner art and expense have been ostentatiously dis-
played, and nature is evidently employed merely as
her handmaid." ^

^ ' Beauties of Scotland.'

2o8 Craigmillar and its Environs.

At the base of Arthur's Seat is Duddingston
Loch, which, when frozen over, is largely taken
advantage of by skaters. The dimensions of this
lake have been curtailed through silting-up and the
deepening of the outlet. It is supplied with water
by springs from Arthur's Seat, and by a small stream
from the west, which takes its rise in the "Wells o'
Wearie," celebrated in song. It is certainly to be
regretted that in these days of modern civilisation
this beautiful sheet of water should be a receptacle
for filthy sewage, so that fish life, with the exception
of pike, perch, and eels, is thereby rendered impossible.
Nowadays, when the memories of successive Lord
Provosts are perpetuated by the acquisition of public
parks, golf courses, and resorts for equestrian exercise
for the citizens of Edinburgh, it is surprising that no
one has suggested to clean out the loch, to divert
the Pow or Braid burn into it, and to stock it with
Loch Leven trout. From the number of disciples
of Izaak Walton that may be seen on a summer
evening, some of them standing to the knees in
the mud, fishing for perch, it is safe to say that the

Proximate Landscape. 2og

course indicated would to many be a great boon.
Towards the close of the last century, in dredging
the loch, the antlers of deer were discovered. There
were also found some coins, the inscriptions on which
were effaced, the blade of a sword, and the heads of
some spears and javelins, all, from their structure and
material, believed to be Roman. Some of these are
now in the Antiquarian Museum in Edinburgh.

As mentioned in previous chapters, a large number
of aquatic birds and marsh plants are present at Dud-
dingston Loch ; and the attention of entomologists is
also periodically attracted by the variety of moths in
its vicinity.

The parish church of Duddingston is of great
antiquity, and is exceedingly interesting. At the gate
is still to be seen the " jougs " hanging on the wall.
In 1592 an Act of Parliament was passed that irons
and stocks were to be provided at the parish kirks
for punishing idle beggars and vagabonds.^ Though
long since fallen into disuse, the "jougs" are allowed
to hang for the inspection of the curious, as a speci-
' Index to Scottish Acts of Parliament, p. 326.

2IO Craigmillar and its Environs.

men of the kind of punishment imposed in ruder times
for petty offences.

On at least two occasions has the charge of Dud-
dingston been held by remarkable ministers — the one
in the domain of literature, and the other in that of
art. The former, the Rev. Robert Monteith, an Epis-
copalian clergyman, had contracted an illicit amour
with Lady Hamilton of Priestfield during her husband's
absence. On the husband's return the rev. gentleman
fled abroad, where he turned his attention to literature,
and left behind him some interesting works written in
the French language. The latter, the Rev. J. Thomson,
was at the beginning of the present century regarded
as one of the best landscape painters of his day.
His paintings are of considerable value, some adorn-
ing the walls of the National Gallery in Edinburgh.

At some little distance from the village of Dud-
dingston lies Easter Duddingston, the most note-
worthy feature of which is Easter Duddingston Lodge,
with its beautiful grounds, the property of Charles
Jenner, Esq. This house, before being remodelled
by the present proprietor, was a very ancient struc-

Proximate Landscape.

211

ture, and evidences of its original strength are still
visible in the back walls, which are of abnormal thick-
ness. The grounds are a model of taste and skill, and
contain specimens of rare trees, shrubs, and flowering-
plants seldom met with in a private collection.

Peffer Mill. — In close proximity to the south
of Duddingston is Peffer
Mill, the supposed resi-
dence of the Laird of Dum-
biedykes, immortalised by
Sir Walter Scott in ' The
Heart of Mid - Lothian.'
The house was built by
one Edgar in 1636, and
his arms, impaled with
those of his wife, are still
to be seen above the beau-
tiful entrance-door. Below
the arms are the mottoes,
" Cui vult dat Deus " :

" Dum spiro spero." "God Entrance Door, peffer Mill.

gives to whom He will": "While I live I hope."

212

Crai^millar and its Environs.

Dormer Window.

The date 1636 appears above a dormer window, and
sun-dials are to be seen <€•?,
on both the front and back *-^^.ti-
of the house. The thick-
ness of the walls shows the
general desire for security
at that time, and clearly
indicates the characteristics of the 17th century. In
recent years the aspect of affairs has greatly changed
at Peffer Mill. The mill lade, and along with it the
dam, with the swans proudly swimming on its surface,
have disappeared, and the iron wheel, now rusty and
uncared for, has long since ceased to revolve. A
century ago a bleachfield for gauze and thread existed
at Peffer Mill, which employed a great many hands.
A public-house was also near there in 1728, as we know
from the following strange circumstance. In that year
a woman named Maggie Dickson was hanged in Edin-
burgh. Her friends, in conveying her body in a cart
back to Musselburgh, to which place she belonged,
called at the public-house in question to get a " dram,"
doubtless considering that the eerie character of their

Proximate Landscape. 213

mission rendered it necessary. How long they re-
mained in the tavern is not recorded, but on their
return to the cart they were horrified to discover
Maggie sitting up in her coffin, the hd of which had
not been fastened. She quite recovered, and for the
remainder of her life was known by the sobriquet of
'* Half-hangit Maggie Dickson." Though the public-
house, with the gauze and thread works, have been
long since swept away, the Suburban Railway with
the "iron horse" has wrought wonders, and the
grounds around Peffer Mill bid fair at no distant date
to be covered with houses and public works.

Between Peffer Mill and Bridgend are the " Craig-
millar Irrigated Meadows," intersected by the Suburban
Railway. Formerly they were called " the King's
Meadows," and there is still extant a charter by King
James V., dated at Kirkcaldy, September 2, 1536,
whereby he " dimits " to his friend and barber, John
Murray, the lands called King's Meadows. This was
a favourite hunting-ground of the king, being in the
centre of the forest of Drumselch. At that period
large areas were covered with immense forests of trees,

214

Craigmillav and its Environs.

while others were moor and waste lands. Drumselch
forest was then the habitat of large herds of red deer,
many of them growing to an immense size. The Rev.
Mr White, in his ' History of the Parish of Liberton,'
states that Easter Duddingston, which originally
belonged to the monastery of Kelso, had a servitude

Bridgend from the Suburban Railway.

on the lands of Cameron for peats. It may be men-
tioned that when excavations were being made in
1887 for the Powburn sewer, on the road running
eastwards from Cameron Toll, a thick layer of moss
was cut through. On its being dug out, cartloads

Proximate Landscape. 215

were taken away by nurserymen, it being deemed in-
valuable for planting rhododendrons. Embedded in
the moss was discovered a number of the antlers of
red deer in a wonderful state of preservation. From
their large size they contrasted strangely with the
antlered heads which are nowadays found in the
Highlands of Scotland.

At Bridgend a hunting-lodge was built by James
v., — the initials of his name, the arms of Scot-
land, and between them the sketch of a huge edifice,
all cut in stone, being placed above the gateway. All
traces of the hunting-lodge have disappeared, except
the stone referred to, which is built into the garden
wall at The Inch, and carefully preserved by the
present proprietor. A handsome chapel was also
built at Bridgend by this pious king, but no vestiges
of it remain. In the valuation proceedings before
the Commissioner of Teinds in 1630, the lands of
Bridgend are called "the Lady Bridgend," which
indicates that the chapel there was dedicated to the
Virgin, " Our Lady."

Prestonfield. — North from the irrigated meadows

2l6

Craigmillar and its Environs.

referred to are the house and pohcies of Prestonfield,
the property of Sir Robert Dick Cunninghame, whose
family is of very ancient origin. Formerly it was
called Priestfield, and in 1681 belonged to Sir James
Dick, who was Lord Provost of Edinburgh. While

PrestonfieivD, from Arthur's Seat.

presiding at a meeting of the Magistrates on nth Jan.
of that year, at eight o'clock in the evening, his house
was set on fire by the students of Edinburgh. The
Provost, it appeared, had displeased them for not

Proximate Landscape. 217

giving them encouragement in burning the Pope's
effigy, and in revenge they burnt his house. For
this act the College gates were shut, and the students
banished fifteen miles from Edinburgh. The Corpora-
tion and the Government wished to rebuild the house,
but in consequence of the state of the treasury, ^800
was all Sir James ever received ; and his salary of
^200 a-year, as Provost, during the two years he was
in office, was never paid. The present mansion was
built in 1687. Priestfield was purchased by Sir James
Dick from Sir Thomas Hamilton. Sir James subse-
quently bought land from Preston of Craigmillar, and
afterwards called his estate Prestonfield. At one time
Prestonfield was covered with oaks, but Sir Thomas
Dick Lauder informs us that every possible encourage-
ment to cut them down was held out by the authorities,
seeing that it served as a place of shelter " for all
manner of thieves and lymmers." When Sir James
Dick was Lord Provost of Edinburgh he cleaned
the streets at his own expense, and had the refuse
carried on the backs of horses to Prestonfield. He

at the same time divided and fenced the parks,

o 2

2l!

Cramnillar and its Environs.

and as the consequence they grew the richest grass
in the country.

NiDDRiE. — Within a distance of two miles from the
sea at Portobello is to be seen nesthng among the
trees the mansion-house of Niddrie. This is the

NiDDRiE House.

residence of Colonel Wauchope of the Black Watch,
his family being the oldest in the county. Robert
Wauchope of Niddrie Marischall built a tomb in 1387,
on which his name is inscribed; and it is generally

Proximate Landscape. 2ig

supposed that this laird built the chapel also, dedi-
cated to the Virgin Mary in 1389, the revenues
of which were attached to Liberton Church at
the Reformation. Gilbert Wauchope had a charter
of Niddrie from King Robert III., and in 1479 the
name of Patrick Wauchope is recorded. Gilbert
Wauchope was a member of Parliament in 1560.
Robert Wauchope, and Archibald his son, aided and
abetted the turbulent Earl of Bothwell in his treason-
able and lawless proceedings. On the night of the
1 2th May 1589, while Archibald Wauchope was lying
in Robert Peacock's house at Bridgend, waiting for
the Laird of Edmonstone, he was beset by the latter,
and an alarm being raised, all Edinburgh was roused.
The king came to the Boroughmoor, and directed a
herald to charge Wauchope to surrender, under pain
of treason. He obeyed the summons, and was com-
mitted prisoner to the Tolbooth in Edinburgh. Next
day he was brought to trial for the slaughter of the
Laird of Sheriffhall and his brother, John Gifford.
The trial was continued till late at night, and
Wauchope escaped out of the window of the Tolbooth

220 Craigiuillar and its Environs.

while the judge was still sitting on the bench. Archi-
bald Wauchope must have been a turbulent and
determined character, as in Calderwood's History it
is stated that during the king's absence in Denmark
in 1590, the young laird of Niddrie killed a gentleman
dependent of the Abbot of Holyroodhouse, because he
reproved him for striking an officer of arms. His
death was in keeping with the checkered character of
his life. On June 18, 1597, while in concealment in
Scletter's Close, Edinburgh, his servant gave the
alarm that the Laird of Edmonstone, with a large
number of followers, had surrounded the house.
Rather than be taken prisoner, Wauchope tried to
escape by leaping from a window, but in falling broke
his neck.

Colonel Wauchope is the seventeenth laird in
direct succession. At an early age he entered on
a military career, and served in the Ashantee war
of 1873-74 as a special service officer. He was
twice wounded, once slightly and once severely, and
was honoured with a medal and clasp, besides being
mentioned in despatches. From 1878 to 1880 he

Proximate Landscape 221

was appointed Civil Commissioner in Cyprus, and
during that time was delegate on the Sultan's Lands
Commission, for which he received the title of C.M.G.
In the Egyptian expedition in 1882 he took a part,
and was present at the battle of Tel-el-Kebir, for
which he received a medal with clasp and the
Khedive's star. He served in the Soudan expedition
under Sir Gerald Graham in 1884 as Deputy Assistant
Adjutant and Quartermaster-General, and was in
the engagement at El Teb, where he was severely
wounded. Again he was honoured with two clasps
and being mentioned in despatches. With the first
battalion of the Black Watch he served in the Nile
expedition in 1884-85, and with the River Column
under Major- General Earle took part in the engage-
ment at Kirbekan, where he was very severely
wounded, for a time his life being despaired of. He
however recovered, and was again presented with
a medal and two clasps.

In 1892 Colonel Wauchope contested Mid-Lothian
against Mr Gladstone ; and though his success was
regarded as almost impossible, he succeeded in re-

222 Cvaigmillar and its Environs.

ducing the majority gained at the previous election
by nearly four thousand votes.

The grounds of Niddrie are beautifully and taste-
fully laid out. At the last addition to the house,
Hugh Miller wrought as a stone-mason. " In the
walk south of the house," he writes in ' My Schools
and Schoolmasters,' " I have enjoyed many an agree-
able saunter ; and through its long vista I could see
the sun sink over the picturesque ruins of Craigmillar
Castle." Near to the house, on the road to Mussel-
burgh, is the small village of Niddrie Mill. At one
time it was situated on both sides of the rivulet, and
contained a great many inhabitants. In it there were
three breweries and fourteen public-houses, which are
all long since swept away. New breweries, however,
on an extensive scale, have recently been erected at
Cairntows, about half a mile farther west, in close
proximity to Craigmillar railway station.

Edmonstone. — Stretching away inland about a
mile to the south is to be seen Edmonstone House,
which looks down from an eminence, where it is
surrounded by some of the finest trees in the country.

Proximate Landscape.

223

Edmonstone House is the residence of Sir John Don
Wauchope, the descendant of one of the most promi-

Edmonstone House, from Craigmii.i.ar Woods.
nent famihes in Mid-Lothian. The building has a
modern appearance, but portions of it are known to be

224 Craigiiiillar and its Environs.

at least four hundred years old. At the close of the
last century it was partially burnt, and on being
restored, considerable alterations were made. On the
workmen breaking out a window in the room now
occupied as the library, a skeleton of a man was
discovered, who doubtless had been entombed
centuries before. It was surmised he might be one
of the Wauchopes of Niddrie, captured in one
of the numerous fights between the two families of
Wauchope of Niddrie and the Edmonstones at
that period. It appeared that a feud had broken
out between them in the reign of James V. which
became hereditary, and was kept up for a century.
On the skeleton being taken out, the shoes appeared
to be perfect, but, on being exposed to the air, they
crumbled into dust. A sword was found beside the
skeleton, which, unfortunately, has not been pre-
served.

The Edmonstones of that ilk sold the property to
James Rait in 1626, whose grand-daughter and heiress
married John Wauchope, a younger son of the Laird
of Niddrie. When this John Wauchope was

Proximate Landscape. 225

christened, in 1633, King Charles I. happened to be
present, and took from his neck a gold, pearls, and
blue enamel chain, which he put round the neck of
the child, and which is now highly treasured as an
heirloom in the Wauchope of Edmonstone family.

Little France. — Within a short distance of
Edmonstone lies Little France, consisting of a few
small houses which can scarcely with propriety be
designated a village. This spot is specially rich
in historical interest, and gets its name from the
French retainers of Queen Mary residing there
when she held her court at Craigmillar Castle.
Within recent years there stood at the west side
of the road a small thatched cottage which tra-
dition asserted to be a remnant of the original
village of Little France. In corroboration of this
tradition, it may be mentioned that an oak lintel
above the door had some words inscribed upon it in
the French language. On the cottage becoming
tenantless it was maliciously set on fire, so that this
interesting relic of bygone days was completely
destroyed. It is here, as observed in a previous

226 Craigmillar and its Environs.

chapter, that the venerable sycamore known as
" Queen Mary's Tree " has braved the storms of so
many generations.

Kingston Grange. — Adjoining Little France is
the estate and mansion of Kingston Grange. This
property has been added to the estate of Craigmillar
by its having been purchased by the present proprietor,
Captain Gordon Gilmour. Formerly it was called
Sunnyside, but the name was changed when it was
purchased by the late Mr Hay, of Duns Castle, to
perpetuate the memory of his ancestor. Viscount
Kingston. At the east side of the park are some
cottages which still bear the name of Sunnyside.
The park, which is eighty acres in extent, and beauti-
fully furnished, is a feu off the barony of Moredun.

MoREDUN. — The house and estate of Moredun,
formerly called Goodtrees, is of considerable antiquity,
and in olden times belonged to the Herries family —
a family of much local influence m the fourteenth
and fifteenth centuries. It afterwards became the
property of Lord Somerville, along with the estate of
Drum and half of the estate of Gilmerton. There-

Kingston Grange.

Proximate Landscape

227

after it was possessed by the Macullochs ; and through
the marriage of Marion, only daughter and heiress
of David Maculloch, with Sir James Stewart of Colt-
ness and Kirkfield, it eventually became the property
of the Stewarts, in whose hands it remained till 1775.

MoREDUN House.

Sir James Stewart was an Edinburgh merchant, and
at one time Lord Provost of the city. He took the
side of the Covenanters in i65i, and, as indicated in
a previous chapter, his house of Goodtrees was on

228 Craigmillar and its Environs.

one occasion searched by a party of dragoons sent
out from Edinburgh to apprehend Hugh M'Kail, who
had been at first tutor and then chaplain in Sir James's
family. His son, also Sir James, was still more dis-
tinguished. His faithful adherence to the Stuart
family forced him, like his royal masters, to live for
many years in exile. After the Revolution he returned
home, obtained a complete pardon, and became
afterwards Lord Advocate for Scotland.

In 1775 Goodtrees was purchased by Mr Mackenzie
of Delvine, who sold it in 1769 to Baron Stewart
Moncrieff, and while in the occupancy of this gentle-
man the name of Goodtrees was changed, under a
royal charter, to that of Moredun. At the beginning
of the present century Moredun was bought by Mr
Samuel Anderson, by whom, and afterwards by his
son, Mr David Anderson, banker in Edinburgh, it was
possessed until 1888, when it was purchased by the
present proprietor, Mr John Welsh, who has restored
and improved the house, in harmony with its original
character and surroundings. Mr David Anderson
was long a Director of Fettes College, and took an

Proximate Landscape.

229

active interest in that well-known educational institu-
tion.

The mansion-house of Moredun is situated in a
beautifully wooded park, and fronts the north-west —
Liberton Church, Craigmillar Castle, and the distant

View in Moredun Park.

spires of the city being seen over its surrounding
trees. The policy at the west side is intersected by
a winding rivulet, over which are some picturesque
rustic bridges, and on both sides are many charming

230 Craigniillar and its Environs.

walks through the pleasure-grounds. This wooded
dell reminds one forcibly of Hawthornden, and its
sylvan beauties form the subject of many an artist's
canvas. From 1760 to 1785 the garden at Moredun
claimed pre-eminence as being the richest in the
county ; and it was believed to be the first in which
forcing was carried out to any degree of perfection.
Baron Moncrieff, the proprietor, used to boast that
from his own ground, within a few miles of Edinburgh,
he could, by the aid of glass, coals, and a good gar-
dener, match any country in Europe in peaches, grapes,
pines, and every other fine fruit excepting apples and
pears. These, he acknowledged, were grown better
m the open air in England and the north of France.
James Boswell, the biographer of Dr Johnson, was
on intimate terms with Baron Moncrieff, and was
a frequent visitor at Moredun. On one occasion,
when Boswell was narrating his frolics over his
success in the great Douglas cause, Moncrieff said
to him, "By my soul, Boswell, you're mad!" to
which he replied, glibly and cuttingly, " Swear by
your peach-houses, your pineries, and your vineries

Proximate Landscape. 231

at Moredun, but by nothing so worthless as your
soul ! "

It is not generally known that Moredun was called
after the hill of that name on the Moncrieff estate at
Perth, Baron Moncrieff being a scion of that family.
In the charter-chest and library there are some rare
MSS. of great antiquarian and historical interest.

Stenhouse. — Contiguous to the grounds of More-
dun is the hamlet of Stenhouse, which is picturesquely
situated in the wooded glen through which flows the
Burdiehouse burn. This hamlet appears at one time
to have been larger than it is now, though a century
ago the inhabitants numbered only 175. There is
little history of an interesting character associated
with it, except that it is the birthplace of John
Simpson, the celebrated architect, whose remains lie
interred in the new church of St Chad, at Shrewsbury.
He was architect for the bridges of Bewdley, Dunkeld,
and Bonar, the aqueducts of Pontoysclite and Chirk,
the locks and basins of the Caledonian Canal, and
the church of St Chad, in which he is now interred.
It may be also mentioned that Bessie Lecost and

232

Craizmillar and its Environs.

other four women belonging to this place were con-

Stenhouse.
victed of witchcraft, by their own confession, and were
strangled and burnt. They were called "the Sten-

Proximate Landscape.

233

house witches."^ Stenhouse is also memorable for
its connection with the famous, or rather infamous,
Grizzel Sempill, generally known as Lady Gilton or
Jelton. She was the wife of Sir James Hamilton of

Hyvot's Mir,!,.
Stenhouse, Provost of Edinburgh. According to
Buchanan, this woman was taken away from her

^ Lord Roystoun's MSS. ; Abstract of Justiciary Records in
Moredun Library.

P 2

234 Craiginillar and its Environs.

husband by Archbishop Hamihon, who "kept her
as if she had been his lawful wife, though she was
remarkable neither for beauty nor reputation, nor
indeed for anything but wantonness." She bore
three children to the Archbishop/ Calderwood,
Knox, and other historians of the time, also make
mention of Lady Gilton.

The walk between Stenhouse and Gilmerton is
very picturesque. The neighbourhood is frequently
visited by artists, and sketches of parts of it are often
reproduced on canvas. Hyvot's Mill stands about
half way between the two places.

Gilmerton. — Almost south of Craigmillar Castle
may be seen the village of Gilmerton. Prior to the
introduction of railways, the population of Gilmerton,
in common with other suburban villages, consisted
chiefly of carters, who daily conveyed coal and other
commodities into Edinburgh. Within the memory
of many persons still living, it was no uncommon
thing to find the family and the horse under the same
roof. This state of matters, however, has disappeared
' Buchanan, ' Rer. Scot. Hist.,' Book xv., chap. 65.

Proximate Landscape.

235

before the advance of sanitary science. The in-
habitants of Gilmerton have long had the reputation
of being lawless and disorderly. This, however,
does not comport with our experience. Having had
occasion to pass through the village at all hours of

GiivMEBTON House.

the day and night, we never met with anything but
the greatest courtesy and civility.

Among places of interest at Gilmerton is Gilmerton
House, which was the dower-house of the ladies of

236

Craigmillar and its Environs.

Newbyth, the property of Gilmerton belonging to Sir
David Baird of Newbyth. Gilmerton House is now
tenanted by miners, and is rapidly losing its ancient
character. "The mansion-house," says the Rev.
Mr White, who wrote over a century ago, "has a

Gilmerton, looking East.

most excellent site, and is favoured with a most
charming and delightful prospect on all hands. The
like is hardly to be seen anywhere. What is called
the long walk on the south side of the house is
peculiarly pleasant. At the east end of it there is a

Proximate Landscape. 237

large arch, and above it a balcony in order to enlarge
and improve the view."

On entering the village, going towards Dalkeith,
the first thing that meets the eye is the announcement
regarding the " Gilmerton subterranean cave." This
cave was long considered a great curiosity, and was
visited by people from all parts of the country. It is
still shown to the public, and well repays inspection.
It is said to have been hewn out of the solid rock by
a blacksmith named George Paterson, who, after five
years' hard work, finished it in 1724. There he lived
with his family, and conducted his business as a
blacksmith till his death m 1735. Pennycuick, the
poet, left an inscription on it to the following effect : —

" Upon the earth thrives villainy and woe,
But happiness and I do dwell below :
My hands hew'd out this rock into a cell,
Wherein from din of Hfe I safely dwell :
On Jacob's pillow nightly lies my head, —
My house when living, and my grave when dead.
Inscribe upon it, when I'm dead and gone,
' I Hv'd and died within my mother's womb. ' "

In the reign of David II. the barony of Gilmerton

238 Craigmillar and its Environs.

belonged to Sir John Hemes, who had a beautiful
daughter. This young lady was inclined to be
melancholy, and appeared to be very strict in observ-
ing all the religious rites and ceremonies then in use.
A young Cistercian monk from the richly endowed
Abbey of Newbattle insinuated himself into her favour
under the pretext of holiness, — "but this rascal, by
his divellish rhetoric and allurements, soe far prevailed
upon the simplicitie of this gentlewoman that at length
he betrayed her."^ Sir John discovered his daughter's
guilt, and learned that intercourse was carried on
at Gilmerton Grange through the connivance of the
lady's nurse, who at this time was a widow, and re-
sided there. Being a passionate man. Sir John
threatened his daughter with death if ever it came to
his knowledge that she again frequented the Grange.
On a dark windy night he discovered that the objects
of his vengeance were engaged in a stolen interview,
and, accompanied by two of his servants, he repaired
to the Grange and demanded admittance. Notwith-
standing his threatenings, they made no answer to
^ ' Memory of the Somer villas.'

G11.MERTON Cave.

Proximate Landscape. 239

his demands, and in a fit of rage he seized a torch
from one of his servants and set fire to the thatch.
As a high wind was blowing, the house was speedily
reduced to ashes, all the occupants, including the
young lady Margaret Herries, perishing in the flames.
The place was thereafter called Burntdool or Burn-
dale. The exact spot where the tragedy took place is
not known, but the gamekeeper's house at Melville is
called Burndale Cottage to this day.

Drum. — A little to the east of Gilmerton stands
the historical house of Drum. Situated on rising
ground, the surrounding trees are distinctly seen from
Craigmillar. Built originally by Hugh seventh Lord
Somerville in 1585, it was long regarded as a vener-
able building. Shortly after completion it was burnt
down, was anew rebuilt, and in 1629 was again
burnt, being this time left for more than a century
in ruins. Between 1730 and 1740 James thirteenth
Lord Somerville pulled down what remained, and
built the house as it at present stands, the stones
from the ancient edifice being utilised in the con-
struction of the new one. Formerly the barony

240 Craigmillar and its Environs.

of Drum belonged to the Hemes family, but it
eventually came into the possession of the Somervilles,
through Sir Walter de Somerville marrying, in 1375,
Giles, only surviving daughter and heiress of Sir John

Drum House.

Herries, and sister of Margaret, who, as already
mentioned, so unhappily perished in the Burndale
tragedy.

"Drum" signifies the ridge of a hill, and from

Proximate Landscape.

241

here the celebrated forest of Drumselch — Gaehc,
druim sealche, i.e. the hill of the hunting — extended
almost to Holyrood. '

In Lord Somerville's time it was regarded as

Drum House, from the South-East.

the most beautiful place in Mid-Lothian, what is
still called the deer-park being tastefully laid out
in shrubberies. Lord Somerville sold the Drum
to Mr Hay, who worked the coal, and in a great
measure destroyed it as a residence. It then passed

242 Craigmillar and its Environs.

into the possession of Robert Cathcart, W.S. Mr
Cathcart's trustees subsequently sold the house and
policy to Mr Gilbert Innes of Stow. Mr Innes was
unmarried, and was succeeded by his sister, at whose
death the Drum passed to Mr Alexander Mitchell,
from whom it was purchased by the present proprietor,
Mr More Nisbet.

Craigmillar and its environs, it will thus be seen,
are rich and varied in historical associations, as well as
in agricultural and mineral wealth. And to these must
be added those general features of the far-reaching
landscape which have been the admiration of so many
successive generations. Here Sir Walter Scott re-
ceived some of his finest inspirations ; and here
many of the cultured and refined of a past age,
in the palmy days of Scotland's capital, were wont
to linger oft, and dwell fondly on the scene spread
out before their eyes. They have all passed away,
but the landscape remains, lovely as of yore. And
here we too would now fain pause, while memory recalls
the " storied lore " which the scene evokes.

I NDEX.

Amphibia of Craigmillar district,

the, 73 et seq.
Andersons of Moredun, the, 22S.
Aquatic fowl, the, of Duddingston

Loch, 81 et seq. passim.
Architectural features, the, of

Craigmillar Castle, i et seq.
Armorial bearings, ancient, at

Craigmillar Castle, i\ et seq.
" Arthur's Seat fern," the, 135.
Arthurs Seat, flora of, 125, 132,

143 et seq. — examples of glacial

action at, 161.
Avifauna of Craigmillar district,

the, 80 et seq.

Badger, the, in Craigmillar district,
54-

Balcanquall, Walter, 185.

Balm Well, the, 195.

Barn owl, the, 85.

Bat, the, 62 — Daubenton's, nest of,
at The Inch, ib.

Binning, John, executed for murder
of Darnley, 40.

Bird-life, the, of Craigmillar dis-
trict, 80 et seq.

Black-backed gull, the great, iii.

Blackbird, the, loi.

Blackcap, the, iiS.

Blackford Hill, 177— National Scot-
tish Observatory at, ib.

Black-headed gull, the, iii.

Blind- worm, the, at Craigmillar, 71
— on the Braids, 72.

Blue tit, the, 116.

Boroughmoor, the, 176.

Botany of the Craigmillar district,
124 et seq.

Bothwell, ist Earl of, conference

at Craigmillar attended by, 36 —

marriage of, to Queen Mary, 39

— testament of, 40.
Bothwell, 2d Earl of, battle fought

near Craigmillar by troops of,

42 et seq.
Braids, the, 192 — view from, 193.
Bridgend, hunting-lodge of James

V. at, 2i5~chapel at, ib.
Bullfinch, the, 122.
Bunting, the snow-, 120 — the reed-,

ib. — the corn-, ib.
Burdiehouse limestone, the, 155 —

fossil remains of, 159.
Burdiehouse, the village of, 196.
Butler, Reuben, supposed residence

of, 178.
Buzzard, the, 104.

Carboniferous rocks, the, of Craig-
millar district, 156 i?^ 5£'^.— fossil
remains of, 159.

Carrion crow, the, 89.

Chaffinch, the, 121.

Chapel at Craigmillar Castle, ruins
of, 20.

Chiffchaff, the, 118.

Clydesdale, the Winrams of, 170.

Cock-fights, annual, at Liberton
parish-school, 178 et seq.

Cole tit, the, 116.

Corn-bunting, the, 120.

" Confessional," the, at Craigmillar
Castle, 18.

Corn-crake or landrail, the, 102.

Covenanters, defeat of the, at
Rullion Green, 197.

Craigmillar, barony of, tenure of
the, 30— purchase of, by Sir John
Gilmour, 44.

244

Index.

Craigmillar Castle, architectural
features of, i et seq. — view from,
I, 31, 16S — keep at, 2, 11 —
ground-plan of, 3 — doorway of, 4
— Great Hall of, 6 — Queen Marys
room in, 7 — roof of, 10 — repairs
on, ib. — human skeleton found
in dungeon of, 13 — towers of, 16
— latest addition to, 17 — fish-
pond at, 19 — ruined chapel at, 20
— ^armorial bearings on walls of,
21 — historical associations of, 24
et seq. — earliest records of, 25 —
early possessors of, ib. et seq. —
seizure of, by the English, 34 —
connection of, with Queen Mary,
35 et seq. — conference at, 36—
James VI. at, 41 — battle at, 42 —
purchase of, by Sir John Gil-
mour, 44 — last tenants of, 52 —
"scorpions " at, 71 — plants found
at, 129 et seq., 143 et seq.

"Craigmillar conference," the, 36.

Craigmillar, derivation of name of,
24 — variations in spelling of, 25
— environs of, 168 et seq.

Craigmillar district, fauna of, 54
^t seq. — avifauna of, 80 et seq. —
botany of, 124 et seq. — geology of,
1^2 et seq.

Craigmillar Irrigated Meadows,
the, 213.

Craigmillar sandstone, buildings
constructed of, 164 et seq. —
superiority of, 165.

"Craigmillar Sycamore," the, 138
et seq. — seedlings from, 140 et
seq.

Craigmillar, the Prestons of, 26.

Crake, the spotted, 103.

Cromwell, army of, encamped at
Craigmillar, 172— at Galach-law,
194 — sword of, at The Inch, 173.

Crossbill, the, 122.

Cuckoo, the, 90 — story of a, 91.

Curlew, the, 85.

Dabchick or little grebe, the, 103.
Dalkeith coal-field, the, fossil re-
mains of, 161.
Dalmahoys, the, 182 et seq.
Darnley, proposed divorce of Queen

Mary from, 36 — plot regarding
murder of, 37 — perpetrators of
the murder of, 39 et seq.

Daubenton's bat, nest of, at The
Inch, 62.

Dick, Sir James, of Prestonfield, 217,

Dovecot, the, at Nether Liberton,
175.

Drum, the house of, 239 — successive
proprietors of the barony of, ib.

Drumselch, the ancient forest of,
213, 241 — antlers of red deer
found at, 215.

Duck, the long-tailed, 82 — the
tufted, ib. — the golden-eye, 83 —
the scaup, ib.

Duddingston Loch, aquatic fowl of,
81 et seq. passim — plants at, 135
et seq., 143 et seq. — filthy state
of, 208 — proposed plan for puri-
fying of ib. — antiquarian ' ' finds "
at, 209.

Duddingston, village of, 206 —
Prince Charlie at, ib. — house of,
207 — parish church of, 209.

Dunibiedykes, the Laird of, sup-
posed residence of, 211.

Easter Duddingston Lodge, house
and grounds of, 210.

Edinburgh University, books be-
queathed to, by Clement Little,
184— Prestonfield House burnt
by students of, 216.

Edmonstone House, 222 — human
skeleton found at, 224.

Edmonstones of that ilk, the, 224.

Environs of Craigmillar, the, 168
et seq.

Ermine fur of commerce, the, 60.

Falcon, the peregrine, 103.
Fauna of Craigmillar district, the,

54 et seq.
Female offenders, novel mode of

punishment of, 165.
Fieldfare, the, loi.
Field mouse, the long-tailed, 71.
Fish of Craigmillar district, the, 78.
Fish-pond at Craigmillar Castle,

remains of, 19.
Flora of Craigmillar district, vari-

Index.

245

ety of, 124 — lists of, already pub-
lished, 125 et seq. — examples of,
T'l'S, et seq.

Fossils, the, of Craigmillar district,
15S et seq.

Fox, the, 56— a hunt of, 57.

French retainers, the, of Queen
Mary, at Burdiehouse, 196 — at
Little France, 225.

Frog, the, 75— fishing with a, 76.

Galach-law, Cromwell's army en-
camped at, 194.

Garden warbler, the, 118.

Geological features, the, of Craig-
millar district, 152 et seq.

Gilmerton Grange, the tragedy of,
238.

Gilmerton House, 235.

Gilmerton Limestone, fossil re-
mains of, i6r.

Gilmerton, village of, 234 — sub-
terranean cave at, 237.

Gilmour, Captain Wolrige Gordon,
biographical notice of, 52 — mili-
tary career of, ib. — alterations on
Inch House by, 173.

Gilmour, first Sir Alexander, 48 —
second Sir Alexander, 49.

Gilmour, Sir Charles, 49.

Gilmour, Sir John, biographical
notice of, 44 et ^d^-— alterations
on Craigmillar Castle by, 47.

Gilmour, Walter James Little, 50 —
career and character of, ib. et
seq. — repairs on Craigmillar Castle
by, 7, 10, 51.

Gilmour, Walter Little, 50.

Gilmour, Wm. Charles Little. See
Little, Wm. Charles.

Gilmour, Wm. Little, of Liberton
and Craigmillar, 49 — descendants
of, 50.

Gilton, Lady, 233.

Glacial action, examples of, in
Craigmillar district, 161 et seq.

Goatsucker or night-jar, the, 103.

Gold crest, the, 116.

Golden plover, the, 109.

Goldfinch, the, 122.

Goodtrees. See Moredun.

Gordon, Robert Wolrige. See Gil-
mour, Capt. Wolrige Gordon.

Great tit, the, 116.

Grebe, the little, 103.

Greenfinch, the, 120.

Greylag goose, the, 109.

Grey wagtail, the, 119.

Grouse, 109.

Gull, the black-headed, i it— the
common, ib. — the great black-
backed, ib. — the herring, 112.

Guthrie, Dr, and industrial schools,
181.

"Half-hangit Maggie Dickson,"
story of, 212.

Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh, Old
Woodhouselee owned by, 200 —
wrong done to^ by the Regent
Miirray, 201 — assassination of the
Regent by, ib.

Hare, the, 64 — a hunt of, at Craig-
millar, ib. et seq.

Hedgehog, the, 58 — habits of, ib.

Hedge-sparrow, the, 120.

Heron, the, 89.

Herries, Sir John, of Gilmerton,
238.

Herring gull, the, 112.

Hertford, Earl of, attack on Craig-
millar Castle by troops of, 34.

Historical associations of Craig-
millar Castle, the, 24 et seq.

House-martin, the, 116.

House-sparrow, the, 120.

Hyvot's Mill, 234.

Igneous rocks, the, of Craigmillar

district, 157.
Inch House, the, description of,

168 — early proprietors of, 170 —

Cromwell's sword at, 173.
Inch, The, old cottages at, 173.
Industrial School at Liberton, the,

180.
Irrigation-farm at Craigmillar, the,

66 — number of rats at, ib.

Jackdaw, the, 89.

Jacksnipe, the, 102.

"Jacky," the Liberton Magpie, 94.

James V., residence of, at Craig-

246

Index.

miliar, 34 — hunting-lodge of, at

Bridgend, 215.
James VI., residence of, at Craig-

millar, 41.
Jelton, Lady. See Lady Gilton.
Jongs, the, at Duddingston parish

church, 209.

Keep of Craigmillar Castle, the,

2, II.
Kingfisher, the, 84.
King's Meadows. See Craigmillar

Irrigated Meadows.
Kingston Grange, 226— old cottages

at, ib.
Kirk-of-Field, murder of Darnley

at, 38.

Landrail or corn-crake, the, 102.

Lapwing, the, 109 — popular preju-
dice regarding, no.

Lark, the, 107 — snaring of, ib.

Liberton House, 186 — antiquarian
interest of, 187 — restoration of,
188.

Liberton, Lord, 171.

" Liberton magpie," the, 94.

Liberton, Over, barony of, 178 et
seq.

Liberton, the Winrams of, 170.

Liberton Tower, 190 — architectural
features of, ib.

Liberton, village of, 178 — annual
cock-fights at parish school of,
ib. —Industrial School at, 180.

Linlithgow Palace, seedling from
Queen Mary's tree planted at,
141.

Linnet, the, 121.

Little, Clement, books bequeathed
to Edinburgh Universit}' by, 184.

Little, William, of Liberton, 49.

Little, William, Lord Provost of
Edinburgh, 185.

Little, William Charles, of Liber-
ton, 49 — surname of Gilmour
assumed by, 50.

Little, William Rankine. See
Rankine, William.

Littles, family of the, i^/^ei seq.

Little France, hamlet of, 225 —

Queen Mary's tree at, 138 et seq.,

226.
Lizards, 73.

Long-eared owl, the, 88.
Long-tailed tit, the, 116.

Magpie, the, 94 — "The Liberton
magpie," ib.

Mallard duck, the, 80.

Mar, Earl of, imprisoned at Craig-
millar Castle, 32.

Martin, the sand-, 115 — the house-,
116.

Mar}-, Queen, room of, at Craig-
millar Castle, 7 — residence of,
at, 35 — conference between, and
nobles at, 36 — marriage of, to
Bothwell, 39 — alleged connection
of, with Darnley's murder, 41 —
sycamore tree named after, 138
et seq. — solitaire and watch of,
at Woodhouselee, 204.

Meadow-pipit, the, 120.

Merlin, the, 106.

Mid-Lothian Harriers, "meet" of
the, at Craigmillar, 64 et seq.

Miller, Hugh, a workman at
Niddrie House, 222.

M'Kail, Hugh, at the Pentland
rising, 199 — execution of, 200.

Missel-thrush, the, loi.

MoncriefF, Baron, of Moredun, 230.

Monteith, Rev. Robert, Episcopal
minister of Duddingston, 210.

Moor-hen or water-hen, the, 83.

Moredun, policy of, 226 — successive
proprietors of, ib. et seq. — deriva-
tion of name of, 231.

Mortonhall, house and policy of,
194 — early proprietors of, 195 —
the Trotters of, ib.

Morton, Regent, executed for
murder of Darnle}-, 40.

Mouse, the long-tailed field, 71 —
the common, ib.

Murray, Regent, treatment of
Hamilton of Bothwellhaugh by,
201 — assassination of, ib. et seq.

National vScottish Observatorv, the,
at Blackford Hill, 177.

Index.

247

Native plants of Craigmillar dis-
trict, list of, 143 et seq.

Nether Liberton, village of, 174 —
mill at, ib. — dovecot at, 175.

Newts, 73 — hatching of, 74.

Niddrie House, 218— grounds of,
222 — Hugh Miller a workman at,
ib.

Niddrie Mill, 222.

Night-jar, the, 103.

Ormiston, Laird of, the confession
of, regarding Darnley's murder,
37, 39 et seq.

Otter, the, 55— hunt of, at Niddrie,
56.

Over Liberton, barony of, 17S et seq.

Owl, the barn, 85 — the tawny, 86 —
the short-eared, 88 — the long-
eared, ib.

Partridge, the, 112.

Paterson, George, excavator of the
Gilmerton cave, 237.

Peewit or lapwing, the, 109— pop-
ular prejudice regarding, no.

Peffer Mill, 211 — traditionary sub-
terranean passage from Craig-
millar to, 14.

Pennj-cuick, the poet, lines on the
Gilmerton cave by, 237.

Pentland Rising, the, 197 et seq.

Pentlands, the, 153 et seq. passim,
197.

Peregrine falcon, the, 103.

Pheasant, the, 112.

Pied wagtail, the, 119.
• Pipit, the tree-, 119 — the meadow-,
120 — the rock-, ib.

Plover, the golden, 109.

Preston, derivation of name of, 26
— notices of the family of, ib. et
seq. — armorial bearings of fam-
ily of, 16, 21, 27. See also St
Giles's Cathedral.

Preston, John, and witch-burning,
29.

Preston, Simon or Synion, initials
of name of, on Craigmillar Castle,
22 — charters of Craigmillar Castle
obtained by, 26 — children of, 27
— royal grants to, 29.

Preston, Sir William de, 26 et seq.

Prestonfield, house and grounds of,
216 — burning of house of, by stu-
dents of Edinburgh University,
ib. — name of, changed from
Priestfield, 217.

Proximate landscape of Craigmillar,
the, 206 et seq.

Quail, the, 83.

Quarries at Craigmillar, notices of

the, 164 et seq.
Queen Mar}'. See Mary, Queen.

Rankine, William, name of Little
assumed by, 189 — descendants of,
ib.

Rats, numbers of, at Craigmillar
irrigation-farm, 66.

Redpole, the, 120.

Redstart, the, 122.

Redwing, the, loi.

Reed-bunting, the, 120.

Reptiles at Craigmillar, 71.

Ring-ousel, the, 122.

Robin, the, 117.

Rock-garden, a natural, 133.

Rock-pipit, the, 120.

Rosebery, Earl of, seedling from
Queen Mary's tree planted at
Linlithgow Palace by, 141.

RuUion Green, battle at, 197—
Covenanters' monument at, 198 —
annual religious service at, ib.

Sand-martin, the, 115.
Sandpiper, the common, 122.
Scott Riddell, verses by, in Queen

Mary's room at Craigmillar

Castle, 8.
Sedge-warbler, the, 117— nest of

ib. — song of, ib.
Short-eared owl, the, 88.
Shrew, the, 71 — the lesser, ib.
Silurian System, Upper and Lower,

of the Pentlands, fossils of, 158.
Simpson, John, architect, notice of,

231.
Siskin, the, 120.
Slow -worm, the, at Craigmillar, 71

— at the Braids, 72.

248

Index.

Snipe, loi.

Snow-bunting, the, 120.

Solitaire, Queen Mary's, at Wood-

houselee, 204.
Somerville family, connection of

the, with the barony of Drum,

239 et seq.
Sparrow-hawk, the, 104 — incident

of, 105.
Sparrow, the house, 120 — the

hedge, ib.
Spotted crake, the, 102.
Spotted flycatcher, the, 122.
Squirrel, the, 62.
St Giles's Cathedral, Preston arms

in, 27 — Preston aisle in, 28.
Starling, the, 113 — food of the, 114.
State tragedy, the, at Craigmillar

Castle, 31.
Stenhouse, hamlet of, 231.
"Stenhouse witches," the, 231.
Stewart, Sir James, 199, 227.
Sticklebacks as pets, 89.
Stoat, the, 59 — skin of the, 60.
Stonechat, the, 123.
Straiton, the village of, 196.'
Swallow, the, 115.
Swift, the, 115.

Tawny owl, the, 86 — adventure

with a, 87.
Teal, the, 81.
Thomson, Rev. John, parish

minister of Duddingston, 210.
Thrush, the, 100.
Tit, the cole, 116— the blue, ib. —

the great, ib. — the long-tailed, ib.
Toad, the common, 77.
Tree-creeper, the, 117.
Tree-pipit, the, 119.
Trotters of Mortonhall, the, 195.
Tytler family, eminent men of the,

203.

Upper Liberton, 1S2 — Tower of, 51,
190.

Valleyfield, the Prestons of, 27.
Voles, 67 — plague of, 68 et seq.

Wagtail, the pied, 119 — the white,
ib. — the grey, ib.

Warbler, the sedge-, 117 — the
garden-, 118 — the wood-, ib. — the
willow-, 119.

Water-hen, the, 83.

Water-ousel, the, 84.

Water-rail, the, 102.

Wauchope, Col., notice of, 220 —
Mid-IyOthian contested by, 221.

Wauchope, Sir John Don, descrip-
tion of a "run" at Craigmillar
by, 57 — proprietor of Edmon-
stone, 222.

Wauchopes of Niddrie, the, 218.

Weasel, the, 59.

Wheatear, the, 123.

Whinchat, the, 123.

Whitethroat, the, 118.

White wagtail, the, 119.

Widgeon, the, 81.

Willow-warbler, the, 119.

Winrams of Clydesdale, the, 170 —
of lyiberton, ib.

Witches, trial and burning of, 29 —
the Stenhouse, 231.

Woodcock, loi.

Woodhouselee, Lord, 203.

Woodhouselee, old mansion-house
of, 201 — seizure of, by Sir James
Bellenden, and its results, ib. et
seq. — ruins of, 203 — present man-
sion-house of, ib. — the Tytlers of,
ib. — relics of Queen Mary at, 204.

Woodpecker, the great spotted, 97
—story of a, 98 et seq.

Wood-pigeon, the, 113.

Wood-warbler, the, 118.

Woolmet, retreat of 2d Earl of
Bothwell to, 42, 44.

Wren, the, 117.

Yellowhammer, the, 120.

PRINTED BY GEORGE LEWIS AND SON, SELKIKK.

SECOND EDITION— PRICE FIFTEEN SHILLINGS.

SPORT

HIGHLANDS AND LOWLANDS OF SCOTLAND

IV/TH ROD AND GUN.

liV

TOM S P E E DY.

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS.

OPINIONS OF THE PRESS

"The book is sure to have an appreciative multitude of readers among
all classes of sportsmen and lovers of natural history ." -~ AgHailiiira/
Journal.

"His observations are evidently based upon observation v^-hich is by
no means superficial." -/«z/(?r«i?55 Courier.

" Interesting and comprehensive With sportsmen of all

kinds its contents will be read with the utmost avidity." — Perthshire
Constitutional.

"A thoroughly useful and practical book for sportsmen." — Midland
Counties Herald.

" It gives in excellent style, fresh, vigorous, and limpid as a mountain
stream, the experiences of a veteran sportsman, digested, arranged, and
made subservient to the purpose of conveying instruction."— TVor/Zz^/'w
Chronicle.

' ' There are few men who coiild write a work of this kind and add any-
thing fresh to our knowledge of field sports ; but Mr Speedy is one of the
few."'- Yorkshire Post,

"Very interesting as well as useful. ... Mr Speedy possesses
considerable descriptive power as well as practical knowledge."— 6? /aw^^'^
Gazette.

" A good practical contribution to sporting li\.era.iure. "— Athena-uin.

"The volume will be found invaluable. . . . Mr Speedy has a
keen eye to nature, and his book gives many interesting lessons in natural
history. "—v?(^^;Y/d?^w Journal.

" An unalloyed pleasure."— /^a/Vjl' Free Press.

" The writing is lively and fresh. . . The style is almost conversational,
and forcibly suggests to the reader the bracken and the heather." — Southern
Reporter.

"Altogether, Mr Speedy 's book is an excellent on.^"— North British
Daily Mail.

opinions of tlic Press — continued.

"Mr Speedy has a great advantage over many writers of books in that,
instead of having to read up his subject, he understands it verj- well to begin
with ; his knowledge of it is acquired at first hand. "' — Manchester
Examiner.

"An important contribution to the literature of natural history and
field sports. . . The author evidently knows the fauna of Scotland well ;
while on such subjects as the taking of a moor, dogs, guns, deer, partridge,
hare, and ptarmigan, as well as grouse, he has quite a mine of informa-
tion. ' ' —Liverpool Mercury.

" A glance at the contents will be sufficient to whet the appetite and

to induce perusal His chapters on grouse shooting and grouse

disease are full of information." — Glasgow Herald.

" Mr Speedy's remarks on the breeding ground chosen by groiise show a
practical acquaintance with natural history, to acquire a knowledge of which
study is among the chief advantages of the sportsman's existence." —
Harper's Monthly Magazine.

"One of the best books on sporting subjects extant There

is no part of the natural history connected with sport with which Mr Speedy
is not acquainted. . . . It is a delightful book, and one of genuine useful-
ness."— Scotsman.

" Mr Speedy writes pleasantly, and he is eminently practical; and he has
had wide experience of the whole range of Scottish sports. . . We can

recommend this volume, with its varied contents, as an admirable handbook
to Scottish wild sports." — Times.

"The variety of the contents, the thorough knowledge shown of all
branches of sport, the fulness of detail, the acquaintance with the. habits of
the feathered and finny tribes, and the plain common sense shown in every
precept and instruction, are evidence of a lifelong stud)' of the subject, and
a mastery of each branch of sport in Scotle.ixd.'" ~ Standard.

" Incomparably the best book of the kind. . . Extremel}- interesting."
— Truth.

"This book contains many valuable hints." — 77/^ Shooting Times.

"Mr Speedy writes with a thorough knowledge of his subjedl, and
the book throughout is eminentl)- practical. . We recommend it to

all our readers." — Land and Water.

"'Sport in the Highlands and Lowlands of Scotland' is a delightful

volume The writer is eminently practical, and has had wide

experience in stalking, fishing, and shooting. Mr Speed}-, like every true
enthusiastic sportsman, is also a naturalist. He has closely studied the
habits of beasts and birds, and gives us much entertaining reading on
grouse-disease, the habits of the osprey, the cunning of the fox, and many
birds of prey. His volume is varied by many personal episodes and
exploits, which are always interesting and often exciting. — Ross-shire
Journal.

LLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS,
EDINBURGH AND LONDON.

Internet Archive Audio

Featured

Top

Images

Featured

Top

Software

Featured

Top

Books

Featured

Top

Video

Featured

Top

Mobile Apps

Browser Extensions

Archive-It Subscription

Save Page Now

Full text of "Craigmillar and its environs; with notices of the topography, natural history, and antiquities of the district"

See other formats