A shade tree guide

Cornell University Library

SB 482.N5A5

0A

mann

Cornell University

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Air Supplies carbon,
tKe principaltfoog of
the tree.Taken-ijon
under surface of
leaves

Tree increases each year in
hewght and Spread of branches
by adding on new growth of
twigs

Leaves prepare
thefood obtained

from arrand soy! Light ang hear
rk and give off 2-32, access "for
CROWN ae” 2 moisture by BENG = chemical honwes

transpiration sf
io 3 i

Heartwood (inactive)
gives strength

Sapwood carries sap \
TRUNK from.reotto ieeves Fl The breathing pores ot
the entire tree-on leaves
twigs. preepes eon and
" Pi roots take in oxygen
Cambium imenscenic) Flooding, poisonous gases
ee : orsmoke may killa tree

inner bark carries
prepared food from
leaves To cambium tayec#

Outer bark protects
tree fram injuries.

Root tips or root haira take
up water containing small
quantity of minerals ta’
solution.

U.S.DEPT OF AGRICULTURE
FOREST SERVICE _

HOW THE TREE GROWS

The buds root tips ano cambium layer are the growing parts of the tree’
Water containing a smal! quantity of mingralsin solution is absorbed by the
roots carmeo up through the sapwood to the leaves and'there combined with
Sarbon from the airto make food This food is carmed by the inner bark to al)

Growing parts of the tree even down To the root-tips

REPORTS OF THE
DEPARTMENT OF CONSERVATION anp DEVELOPMENT
STATE OF NEW JERSEY

A Shade Tree Guide

by

ALFRED GASKILL

State Forester

Published May, 1918

Union Hill, N. J.
HUDSON PRINTING COMPANY.

1918

379550

The Board of Conservation and Development

ae
SIMON P. NORTHRUP, President, ..........0ccceeee ce cncees Newark
PERCIVAL CHRYSTIE, ....... oC ee ee High Bridge
NELSON B. GASKILL, .........., 0. bec ce cence nee ene eens Trenton
CHARLES LATHROP PACK,....... ees eee Lakewood
STEPHEN PPEVGy sc2cvceasan vem render ed eediaw teense Camden
EDWARD S. SAVAGE) occ cc cee ne cee en ee bn deine ee ee Rahway
GEORGE A. STEELE, ............... amigo pecge vaekever Eatontown
HENRY CROFUT WHITE, ..... ie cadet tulad aaa Rae a acd North Plainfield
ALFRED GASKILL, Princeton, .. 2oatae ys State Forester and Director
HENRY B. KUMMEL, Trenton, . nee nate nisl aaanenarqunsiwed State Geologist
CHARLES P. WILBER, New Brunswick, .......... State Firewarden

OFFICE, STATE House, ANNEX, TRENTON.

(2)

Contents.

DUPCCL PPECS sound aint qikch Goda as Gelding ee eds senna Ha aM tame DS 5
Shade Tree Commission, ...........- 0s seeseee cece eee ee eens 5

' Old tKeOS 5:6 -caeied an icaees siete og Meee et Bacon aes 5
What: to. plants. o..cc2cssesccniG ate Gite eds N eae ee eee 5
Trees to avoid, .........0eeeeeee “eSbiiin lghica ecavatey papas dasa dates Byes 7

TO CATION: © ses eveisedo-<ices saaha wie Rain's ae. ale eons a Ruedas Wiig e HoT SR 7
Intervals; s.c2. ecw. seus seas jecaethehs Shins eae namarn nea Hees 7
When to plant, .......... Be ech haga hoe Dia eis eave ca cata i
HOW? tO DIAM bang, ccpage cetese- eae ease sladea! preoddacad Sean eae ea oes 7
How to keep trees healthy, .........-...eeeeeeeeees Lcaubaastiohe 9
Lawn. Trees,.. sscccse cadet taesem aed des + eee eens ae eee 10
PAN GIN OF econ ais diane sates Sab ddoacrdn ed aed LAE ee aa 8d LSS 10
SEWeells? And: ‘MMOUNAS). oso. l5 4 sass d sue neds sid anal ae Aves sie eranaceerecaeraceaaierases 11
Seashore: “Wreesy: is cei septs tea oases teasers otnn eaeh sete rd enesteresatgoar mia co 11
Pertilizer). sis cats steaa anrse dea daed sae tapes tage wae ee Reema 12
SUPPONE; swag sowed g Gate eee ves eid dae Re es ie eee Oe 12
What:-to plant): s.acccctetses ners nadie swciens ee ae Guy ae cade 12
INGUPISHIIEM ES, 55 ssccc aveyiaws: 5 aiiosd m:lniels acess a2 leacobea sh ccusal etnies Scaahud,avaueu asailanssailnce 12
Water, casi ncd eee neces Sot Dane ants alse eeeincakard ets 13
Mood: scsi aerate ve aiea cutee nace Hata erro eae ea eNR eG RE eae oe 13
Pruning °s decison ecg is hats aa AMOTS Ao eae eee DeSean aes eT Oh OS 13
; When transplanted, ..........cccceeeeceeceeeeeseeseateaees 13
TRG ZEON II js asses ears Gaba oa ceo ates vcvig ce nna, SG Shera cavadeale, dsbaeuciaus amet SreveusSevade 13
HOP VAG OF ics. cionitets av etna ace pi deserts Wigiviedaietenese “iaums each 14
Covering: Cuts): dia vcs tsae cies cake elke eee se cadie sad ta eek AS 14
PINE CO PUM) «se scis es coie.3 wed tie peeve Bitseee BR ER oeRie eR es OWE aware ane 15

TN FUPIES 25 Susie dws oe gaewcgiete chia HAG pees Scietus sande Seva onsen ea aa eed 15
Broken. limbs). apse dee eu Gh lant twee 49d ee ee ae ea Ee ee 15
Frost cracks, sun cracks, and winter kill,...............0000- 16
AbPASIONS; ~ viscauacet We os news Mele ees GSS ee Ree EN oe 16

CB WICIES 3, 5 Sais vaaesa oeasde din lege cae racecs teaana O Sdaseiaha sener ect aanean attests aunts esas 16
Gas POISON. 2:55 cad eters-cata ed watiomnied S288 GIN ONS ean eee da ies 18
Pires i csiccadeaaes cea etd dls eae wenwea aioe sideiesis ies eas et 18
Salt, Lime, 2.0.00. cece see e cece eee n eter e eran ten enencnees 18
HIGCtHICItYy a scxea csc se eies Seales eae Seda oie atte eo Ssaahe bok etaees 18
DISCASESS «osc: aaGe, secs lace autrerars divers ooze aheuest Sree ae eeacereGuaiete@aelaarmne a ae ‘... 20
Walter dato we tenet ber aienmaaeGeies 5 soe teas Rooien 21
Bleeding’. .se-c3 2s eames tae iein is eee Ads Gee eames cet caw 21
TNSECtS;. -e caida ces = Cleat A A ae eR ev Bae ean eee eae 21
BRIG STS se «uit 6: ihsce 4: avavonatctieng saan oi att azayappaeicnepedagasa.ceneen alee one latera wanton ereneae 22
Suckers, seca dwideecte fon vo ante aeinerewawsqeeiy sister estan a eee eine 22
Borers. cars s 209 s 45 te evetesin sa ae Soames eas sea DE ea oe ee 22

Illustrations.

FIGURE PAGE
1. How the Tree Grows ...... Bo Seacassh sey Suna Seas eee ee Frontispiece
2. Young Trees Planted in Anticipation of Removal of Old Trees.. 6
8. How to Plant a Street Tree ........... cece eee cee cee eeee 8
4. A Young Street Tree Failing thru Lack of Care............ 9
5. A Young Street Tree Properly Planted and Well Cared For... 9
6. Use of Trees as Anchors for Guy Wires .............. eee eee 10
7. Four Types of Tree Guards ........ 5: PES De RES Ree Re 11
8. Norway Maple Showing Very Dense Crown ................ 14
9. Norway Maple with Superfiuous Branches Removed by

Pruning ..... s/o 3.lglep By elseh a Rah x de alls ee cd evel & Sruahse lena ee raeu es Reh as aor! 14

10. Right and Wrong Ways of Treating Wounds .............. 15
11. The Right and Wrong of Tree Doctoring .................... 17

12. Trees Butchered to Make Room for High Wires.............. 19

13. Trees with Crowns Saved and Wires Carried on Low Poles..... 20

,

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A Shade Tree Guide

This bulletin will be helpful to municipal authorities and to those
who wish to maintain vigorous, attractive trees on their properties.
Few people realize that any tree standing beside a sidewalk, or even
on a lawn, is out of its element (the forest), and that the strains
and dangers to which it is subject must be counteracted in every
way possible. The advice given refers particularly to New Jersey;
it is applicable to most of the eastern United States.

The value of shade trees. Tho it is now well established that a
shade tree has a value beyond that of its wood, or the cost of plant-
ing a new one, and that neither individuals nor public. service agencies
can injure one without becoming liable for damages, it is advisable
always to avoid such troubles.

Street trees and lawn trees. It is needful to distinguish between
street trees and lawn trees because only a few deciduous species,
and no evergreens, can be maintained on narrow paved ways,
whereas a lawn admits a variety of trees and shrubs, deciduous and
evergreen, that is limited only by space and climatic conditions. On
streets and lawns close to the sea the available kinds of trees are
few, and extreme care in their selection and nurture is required.

Street Trees

Shade Tree Commission. It is always advisable to have street
trees under the control of a Shade Tree Commission, such as is main-
tained in many communities in New Jersey and in several other
states. These organizations can secure better results than indi-
viduals.

Old trees. An established tree, even of poor kind, is better than
a newly planted one. Unless an old tree is decrepit or a nuisance it
should be saved until a new one can be started to take its place. If
young trees are planted between old ones before the latter have to
be removed there will be less objection to taking away the unde-
sirable ones than there may be if gaps are created. (Fig. 2.)

What to plant. In the choice of trees for street planting there is
no room for experiments; one must select a kind that will live, and
give satisfaction, for many years under fixed, and usually unfavor-
able, conditions. It is generally agreed that an acceptable street tree
must be of form suited to the space, hardy and not subject to insects
or disease, fairly rapid in growth, a good shade producer, and neat in
that it drops no objectionable litter. The list of available trees is
practically limited to the following. In most cases choice should be
restricted to the kinds indicated by italic type.

(5)

6 SHADE TREE GUIDE.

JT

Fig. 2. Young Trees Planted on an Inside Line in Anticipation of
the Removal of Decadent Old Trees on the Curbing.

The Best Trees for City Streets

Narrow Streets.
(less than 60 _ feet
wide between building
lines.)

Average Streets.
(60 to go feet wide
between building
lines.)

Wide Streets.

(over 90 feet wide be-
tween building lines.)

Ginkgo
Norway Maple
Hackberry
Green Ash
Red Gum

Red Maple
Honey Locust

Scarlet Oak
Ginkgo
Norway Maple
Red Oak
Sycamore
Hackberry
Red Maple
Pin Oak
Basswood
White Ash /
Red Gum
Sugar Maple
Honey Locust
Horse Chestnut

White Elm
Red Oak
Sycamore
Tulip Poplar
Sugar Maple
White Oak
Basswood
Red Gum
Scarlet Oak
Ailanthus

STREET TREES. 7

The tree to be planted will be more likely to thrive if it comes
from a reputable nursery than if it grew wild, because nursery cul-
ture induces the development of compact root systems and lessens
the risk of moving. The larger the mass of small feeding roots
that is taken up, and the more earth that is moved with them, the
quicker and better will the tree establish itself. Red Gum has
very tender roots and is rarely planted successfully unless it is
moved with a “ball” the same as an evergreen (p. 10). A tree
of any kind should be healthy, symmetrical, and, as a rule, have a
breast-high diameter of between 2 and 3 inches and a height of
about 12 feet. :

To insure the necessary headroom for street traffic no tree that
forks at less than Io feet above the ground should be used, and
no branch whose base is less than 7 feet above the pavernent should
be retained. Contrary to a common belief, the branches of a tree
remain fixed forever at one height above the ground; their bases
are not carried upward by growth. (Frontispiece.)

Trees to avoid. Silver Maples, Poplars and Willows are rapid
growers but short lived, easily broken and given to producing sur-
face roots and suckers. Locust is thin foliaged and subject to a
boring insect. Nut trees invite injury by their fruit.

. Location. If conditions permit. it, trees usually should be
planted inside the sidewalk rather than close to the curb. There they
are less subject to injury, their roots have more room, their crowns
are less in contact with overhead wires, and they shade the houses
better. Wherever space permits it is well to depart from straight
lines.

Intervals. Street trees usually are planted too closely together.
The proper distance will be determined to some extent by the
species, the width of the sidewalk and the front width of the build-
ing lots. A safe rule is so to space the trees that their crowns
will never interfere, but have considerable air and light between.
Thirty feet is a minimum interval; fifty feet or more is better.

When to plant. Trees can be planted at any time when they are
not in leaf. They are most apt to succeed if planted in spring, as
soon as the frost is out of the ground. A cloudy, quiet day is bet-
ter than a bright or windy one. (See p. fo.)

How to plant. Dig the hole before the tree arrives and follow
instructions given in figure 3. If the local soil is poor make the hole
at least two feet larger and one foot deeper than is required. Re-
move the poor soil and bring good, rich loam: Cut off all broken
roots but save as many as possible of the small fibrous ones. Be
careful that the roots do not dry out. Put enriched earth in the
hole until the tree when standing upon it will be two inches lower,
not more, than it stood in the nursery. Hold the tree upright, fill
in the mixed soil and fertilizer and compact it firmly about the roots.

8 SHADE TREE GUIDE.

Use plenty, of water to settle the earth and be sure that every root
is firmly embedded. Many newly planted trees die because their
roots are left in air pockets. When all is done rake the surface
to check evaporation. Successful tree planting depends upon care
at every point—a vigorous tree with plenty of good roots, an ample
bed of good soil for root growth and careful planting are of prime
importance. Then frequent watering, occasional cultivating, and
fertilizer once a year. If these things are ignored a tree may live
but will never thrive.

WELL DEVELOPED HEAD, } BEFORE SETTING, TREE
STRONG LEADER, BRANCH SHOULD BE PRUNED AT
ES SET AT WIDE, NOT POINTS INDICATED BY
CLOSE, ANGLES. BLACK LINES; NOY BYCLIP-
DING ENDS OF BRANCHES}
BASE OF
; PERMANENT]
CROWN
OFT. ABOVE!
PAVEMENT,
I
(STAKE 22 IN.x 10 aa =
2 IN S
DRIVEN 2FT. IN GROUND BASE OF TEMPORARY
AND SECURED WITH CROWN 7 FEET
RUBBER COVERED WIRE, ABOVE PAVEMENT, |
OR WITH CANVASS ik
be |
OPENING IN SIDEWALK IN (PRESERVE FIBROUS |
AT LEAST © SQ.FT.; j paatile oo ay
TOP SOIL ' V
eee Oe Ep 4 BROKEN ROOT.
SET TREE $0 THA
IT STANDS 2 r=
IN. DEEPER Ws:
THAN (7 01D
IN THE NUR-{’-{! !
seRy_/~'\
Or orrAth iN ia RICH
3 tL. EARTH PACKED
LOWER. ROOT LEVEL WITH
MIXTURE OF 3/4 GOOD SOIL FIRMLY ABOUT ROOTS
AND Y4 ROTTED MANURE. ,

Fig. 3. How to Plant a Street Tree. It is Im ort
: an
to Observe Every Point Indicated in the Deiseam: j

STREET TREES. 9

How to keep trees healthy. Any tree will resist insects and dis-
ease, and will recover from injury much more readily if it is vig-
orous and healthy than if it is weak. Observe the following rules:
Never let a sidewalk be laid closely about a tree; a surface of bare
earth (footing) at least 2 by 3 feet, preferably 4 by 8 feet, should
be kept (figs. 2, 3, 5); when a tree is fully established this may be
grassed over, tho it is advisable to keep it open. Once a year work
a little fertilizer into this open space and water it at intervals as di-
rected at page 13.

Fig. 4. A Young Street Tree. Fail- Fig. 5. A Young Street Tree of
ing Thru Lack of Care.—Of Poor Good Form, Properly Planted and

Form, with Branches too Low, It Well Cared For.—Guard, Stake,
is Crowded in a Brick Pavement, Footing as They Should Be.
Has no Stake and Only a Short,

Frail Guard.

If a young tree is exposed to winds or other strain, keep it firm
and upright by means of a stout stake to which the stem is secured
in such fashion that it will not be rubbed (fig. 5). Unless the tree
is so placed that it cannot be gnawed by horses maintain a stout

10 SHADE TREE GUIDE.

guard about it (figs. 5,7). Apart from the pruning required when
a tree is planted most trees should be allowed to develop naturally.
Pruning as frequently practiced in butchery. (See p. 19 and fig. 12.)
Allow no tree to support a guy wire except under necessity. In that
case, and only if the tree is strong and healthy, let an eye bolt be
driven into the heart, or all the way thru, and the guy wire at-
tached to that; no form of band should be tolerated except tempo-
rarily in an emergency.

Fig. 6. Trees Should Not Be Used to Anchor Guy Wires Except in an
. Emergency.
A—Never Attach a Guy in This Way. ;
B—A Temporary Guy Should Have Wood Blocks Under the Wire.
C—If a Tree is Sound, a Lag Screw Driven Into the Heart Will Hold
a Guy Wire and Do Least Harm.

Lawn Trees

Planting. Any tree with ample space about it requires only -
to be secured against injury and to be supplied with food and water.
Deciduous trees should be planted exactly as recommended for
street trees except that stakes and guards are rarely required. Ever-
green trees, and a few deciduous species with succulent roots, as
Red Gum, must invariably be moved from the nursery with the
roots embedded in a ball of earth. When the hole has been pre-
pared and good earth supplied, loosen the bagging that encloses the
ball and set the tree with the earth still about its roots.

As a rule lawn trees, like street trees, do best when planted in
early spring, tho evergreens allow greater latitude and often thrive
when moved in August. When that is done it is important to guard
them against strong winds in winter.

Lawn trees ordinarily require less care than street trees, but a
circle at least 3 feet.in diameter should be kept without sod about
the base of a newly planted tree of whatever kind, and the soil with-
in it worked frequently, until the tree is firmly established. Grass’

LAWN TREES. II

may then be allowed to grow, altho it is advisable to maintain the
opening continually as a guard against injuring the base of the tree
by the lawn mower.

“Wells” and mounds. If the level of the ground about an old
tree is changed a “well” must be built in a fill to keep the soil away
from the trunk and to avoid smothering the roots, or a mound left
on a cut to prevent exposure.

A B Cc D

NOT LOSS THAN @ FeeT wien

Fig. 7. Four Types of Tree Guards.

A—Standard in Washington, D. C. Made of Wood and Very Strong. It
Also Serves as a Support, but is Unsightly and Not Cleanly. Cost
About $1.50.

B—Made of Ornamental Fence Wire. Too Frail to be of Much Value
as a Guard and of None as a Support. Cost About $1.00. ;

C—Made of Heavy Wrought Iron. Is Attractive, Strong and -Durable.
Cost With Grill About $10. ;

D—Made of 1-2 inch Galvanized Iron Screen, with Rubber Hose Buffer at
Top. Harbors Insects and Must be Supplemented by a Supporting
Stake, but Very Popular. Cost About 80 Cents.

Seashore Trees

Whether along the streets or upon lawns, trees near the ocean
have to contend with poverty of soil, deficient soil moisture and
strong winds, those of winter in particular. It is useless to try to
maintain trees where they can be reached by ocean spray—say with-
in 200 feet of high water. Beyond that point it is simply a question
of choosing hardy species and strengthening sterile soil.

12 SHADE TREE GUIDE.

Fertilizer. It is not necessary to transport inland soil, the poor-
est sand may be treated thus:

Add to the native soil:

Oyster shell lime 9 pounds
Wood ashes 2l4 ‘
Composted (not fresh) manure 50 ie

Or as a substitute for the manure, not
in addition,
A mixed fertilizer composed of:
2 parts tankage
2 “ ground fish
3 acid Lame 27a pounds
3 “ muriate potash

The quantities named are enough for 100 square feet of ground.
As root spread is assumed to be equal to crown spread, a tree with
a crown 6 feet in diameter will have roots covering about 30 square
feet and will require three-tenths of the above. Do not use more or
the trees will be injured. Apply the fertilizer every spring; the
lime and wood ashes every three or four years. As a sandy soil is
always porous frequent and abundant watering is necessary.

Support. Until it is firmly established every tree exposed to
strong winds must be firmly supported by a stout stake or by three
or four wires secured to pegs firmly driven into the ground. This
is even more important in winter than in summer.

ce

What to plant. For street planting the choice of species should
be limited to sycamore, ailanthus, pin oak, scarlet oak, red oak, hack-
berry, honey locust, red maple, and in most situations preference
given in the order named, altho it is not advisable that too many of
the same kind be used. Upon lawns oaks and pines, with various
hardy shrubs, are to be preferred to the firs, spruces and cypresses,
and the many deciduous trees, that are available inland.

Nourishment

More trees suffer from starvation than from anything else. On
lawns as on sidewalks a tree’s natural food (fallen leaves, etc.), is
taken away, water is denied and both rain and air are excluded by
close pavements, or by sod. The consequent weakened condition
induces disease and insect attack. Don’t plant a tree unless it can
have at least 6 square feet of open soil at its base. For several years
after a tree is planted this is imperative, afterwards sod, not pav-
ing, may be tolerated. Frequent working of the surface ‘soil as in
any garden, will tend to keep a tree in good condition. 3

NOURISHMENT. 13

Water. Street trees require more water than lawn trees because
their roots are apt to be restricted and because sun-heated pave-
ments and buildings increase transpiration. A good rule is to see
that the ground about a tree is soaked once a week. If rain fails
use the hose or a pail. Sprinkling, tho done frequently, is only a
little better than nothing. Too frequent soaking will exclude the
air and cause the roots to rot. When the ground has dried after
a wetting, rake the surface to check evaporation. If the ground
does not dry within an hour too much water has been applied.

Food. In the forest, and in neglected places, nature provides
trees with food. Along the streets and on well-kept lawns it must
be furnished. If a tree shows thin foliage, slender branches or a
dead top starvation may be suspected. The best fertilizer is com-
posted (not fresh) manure. In the spring spread it 2 inches deep
over as much of the root extension as can be reached and fork it
into the soil; or, tho not so good, put it on December first and let
it lie over winter, when what remains can be raked off. On a paved
street the fertilizer must be placed in the opening at the tree base,
but whenever possible it should be spread away from the trunk and
beneath the foliage, where most of the feeding roots are found. If
manure is objectionable, apply each spring 1% pounds per 100
square feet of a commercial fertilizer composed as follows:

For light soils. For heavy soils.
Nitrate soda I part 2 parts
Acid phosphate 1 “ Bi
Muriate potash? ae te
Ground bone bit B.S

Distribute the fertilizer evenly and mix it with the soil; be care-
ful not to use an excess else the tree roots may be burned.

If it is desired simply to sustain an old tree without inducing
growth, use a small quantity of manure, or from 1 to 114 pounds per
100 square feet of a mixture containing I part nitrate soda, 1 part
bone meal, 5 parts acid phosphate.

Pruning

Trees need to be pruned only (1) when they are transplanted ;
(2) when they interfere with other trees or structures; (3) when
they are weakened by decay or by overgrowth. Much of the prun-
ing done by so-called experts is useless or even harmful. Most trees
should be allowed to develop according to their natural habit. When
pruning is permissible the following rules apply.

When transplanted, a tree must have its crown cut back to bal-
ance the inevitable loss of roots. See figure 3, and observe that
useless interior branches are removed entirely.

Form. If a tree grows one sided, if its branches interfere with
a building, or with another tree, curtail or cut out entirely the aggres-

4Wood ashes may be substituted at the rate of 10 pounds to 1 pound
of muriate potash.

‘

14 SHADE TREE GUIDE.

sive member. With few exceptions trimming the ends of branches
is wrong and cutting off the whole top is butchery.

Branches which hang too low should not be trimmed, but cut
back to the trunk or main branch. If branches grow so that they
interfere with electric wires, either have the wires lowered, or re-
move entirely all but the three or four most vigorous shoots and
stimulate the tree to carry a crown above the wires. (See p. 19.)
For treatment of heavy limbs see Injuries, page 15.

Vigor. If a tree is so weakened that dry branches appear, cut
out all the dead wood, and such of the living members as is neces-
sary to make the tree shapely. If lack of vigor is shown by droop-
ing foliage and the crown is very dense (as is common in Norway
maples and sugar maples), relief will be given by removing a quarter
or a third of the foliage. This should be done, not by cutting off the
extremities, but by taking out interior branches entire (figs. 8, 9).
When done skilfully the appearance of a tree as well as its strength
is improved. After pruning for vigor a tree should always be well
fertilized and watered.

Sy E, Bey rs
wn ES VEE
: og ye ke
~ Sy San a
We : Yen
“>> Da 3
: pre
Soe NY :

Fig. 9. The Same Norway Maple
as that Shown in Fig. 8 with
Superfluous Branches Removed
by an Interior Pruning. This

Fig. 8. Diagram, from a_ Photo-
graph, of a Norway Maple Show-
ing the very Dense Crown
Common with this Species. The

Foliage Produced Makes a Heavy
Draft upon the Soil Fertility and
Water and Frequently Leads to
Wilting.

Preserves the Natural Form of
the Crown and a Frame that will
Produce as much Foliage as is
Desirable.

Covering cuts. Unless it is properly treated every break in the
bark of a tree affords entrance to disease germs. In practice clean
cuts less than an inch in diameter are ignored; every larger wound
should be coated with an antiseptic. The most practical is creosote
followed by coal tar. Tar alone is often used, but does not pene-
trate deep enough to give best results. Creosote is a dark oil and
can be applied with a brush. Tar should be made liquid by heat and

aw iss in the same way. It is advisable to avoid covering the cam-
ium.

INJURIES. 15

Time to prune. Pruning may be done when it is most convenient
unless “bleeding” (p. 21) is induced. That is most apt to occur
in early spring or early fall. Late winter is usually best because
there is then little sap movement and the absence of foliage makes
the work easier. (See p. 8.)

Injuries

Broken limbs. Every broken limb should be cleared away
promptly by a cut, or succession of cuts, that leave a wound which
will heal quickly. Small limbs can be taken off by a single cut,
larger ones require three, as indicated at B, figure rr. It is im-
portant to use a sharp saw, make the final cut close to the larger
member and be careful that the bark at the bottom is not torn. A
“ wound shaped as indicated at ricHT, figure 10, will heal most
quickly ; one shaped as indicated at wRonc will heal more slowly at
the top because the arch is flatter, and very slowly at the bottom be-
cause the bark is torn away. A stub as at C, figure 11, should never
be left. The face of the wound should be treated as directed on page
14. Cement will do harm rather than good.

hn
tis i

ta

ia ae

Fig. 10. Cut Marked RIGHT is Healing Properly and
Quickly. Cut Marked WRONG is Healing Slowly, and
Not at All at the Bottom, Where the Bark is Torn.
Every Wound on a Tree that Can be so Treated,
Whether a Mere Bark Bruise or the Stub of a Severed
Limb, Should be Trimmed to a Long, Regular Oval.

aN |

16 SHADE TREE GUIDE.

Frost cracks, sun cracks, and winter Rall. Extremely cold
weather, especially when it follows a late growing season, some-
times freezes the water in the outer cells of a tree stem and causes
a long crack. Thin-barked species, like sycamore and horse chest-
nut, are most susceptible and any tree on a street, exposed as it
must be, is apt to suffer. Sun cracks have the same appearance but
are caused by excessive heat, often reflected from a white pave-
ment or wall. In large trees such cracks usually close again with
warmer weather and no serious harm is done, but the wood does
not unite and a scar is left. On small trees the crack is apt to per-
sist until new growth covers it. There is no practical preventive,
and no remedy other than helping nature by every care to heal the
wound. This can be hastened by treating the crack with antiseptic,
and keeping it from reopening by strong staples, driven in warm
weather when the gap is narrowest. “Winter kill” occurs when the .
vital parts of a tree trunk are frozen and ruptured in a horizontal
plane by the formation of ice about its base. There is no remedy,
but the trouble can usually be avoided by having the ground slope
away from the foot of a tree on all sides so that no water can col-
lect there. “Winter kill” is common on the terminal shoots of many
trees and shrubs and rarely does permanent harm.

Abrasions. Surface wounds, made by horses, lawn mowers,
blows, etc., are the starting places of most of the decay that de-
stroys shade trees. It is little realized that many serious tree wounds
originate between the nursery and the planting site. If the trunk
of a young tree is thrown on the side-board of a wagon the tender
bark and cambium are apt to be crushed, and tho the injury may
not show at the time the growth of the surrounding parts reveals
it. Every care should be taken to avoid these injuries. When one
occurs let the injured part be cut out carefully with a sharp knife
or chisel until sound wood is exposed and the edges left smooth.
Then sterilize and tar the wood—not the cambium or bark, and leave

= ta to nature. Cement should not be used. (See F and H, fig.
II.

Cavities. Cavities in trees are invariably the result of decay.
They are treated with one or all of three objects in view: (1) to
stop the decay and induce healing; (2) to hide an unsightly part;
(3) to support a weakened body. The belief that every cavity
should be filled is wrong, because, even with the best workmanship,
a filling merely retards decay, it does not stop it. The best rule is
to clean a cavity thoroly—cutting out all decayed tissue with*a
gouge and mallet until sound heart wood is exposed. If the cavity
will not hold rain water, or the wound is not unsightly, trim the
edges neatly, treat the wood surface and stop.

INJURIES. 17

PREVENT A SPLIT OR '
MEND A SPLIT BY CHAIN
8 BOLTS, NOT BY ABAND,

STUB
TOO LONG
ron HEAL

HY
HEALING
AND DECAY
WORKS
INWARD.

A PRUNING
WOUND MADE

AS BOR E
HEALING PER-
FECTLY.

A WOUND FILLEO
UNNECESSARILY,

E
BE BETTER.

NEVER MENDA
SPLIT WITH _A
BAND, pale RREe
WILL S

CHOKED. O SEE ASD

A HORSE BITE
OR BRUISE TO BE
TREATEDAS F.

Rw

A

&. FILLE

A DECAYED BRANCH,
AS C, CuT OFF &
THE cary CLEANEO

r |

HM

REMOVE A HEAVY
LIMB BY MAKING
SCUTSAS -

NUMBERED.

A LONG STUG LEFT,
DECAY HAS SET IN
& IF ahh TREATED

AS ATM WILL
aye ee THE MAIN

A SOLID BAR WITH
NUTS WILL HOLD A
WEAKENED CROTCH,
THOUGH, INA BIG TREE|

pid 50 WELL ASA
CHAIN. EA.
WHEN ALIMB IS

REMOVED AND THERE .

ou Plt DECAY, CLEAN

THE WOUND “ TAR
bur DO NOT FILL IT.

TREAT A BRUISE AS
Hi BY CUTTING OUT
INJURED TISSUE,
LEAVING ‘SURFACE &
EDGES SMOOTH, TAR
BUT DO NOT FILL.

A LARGE CAVITY
PROPERLY FILLED
WITH ‘CONCRETE.

Fig. 11.—The Right and Wrong of Tree Doctoring.

If the cavity cannot be drained, if it is unsightly, or if the tree
needs support, a concrete filling may be placed. Before doing this
any but a pocket cavity should be shaped so that moisture will drain
from it, and set with nails or wires to hold the concrete in place.

In many cases it is advisable simply to clean the cavity, and,

18 SHADE TREE GUIDE.

without attempting to fill it, cover the opening with cement, sheet-
metal, or wood blocks (creosoted), to guide the growing callus,
For small cavities a mixture of half cement and half sand is best;
for larger ones one part cement, one part sand and two parts
gravel, broken stone or cinder will answer. The surface of a fill-
ing may be smoothed with a coat of clear cement. The sand, stone
or cinder should always be free from dirt of any kind, the cement
thoroly mixed and as soft as it can be handled. .

Gas poison. If illuminating gas escapes from a faulty pipe into
the soil in which a tree grows the roots may be poisoned, cease to
function and the tree be weakened or killed. The extent of the
damage, and the rapidity of action, depend upon the quantity of gas,
the porosity and moisture of the soil, and the character of the pave-
ment or other ground cover. A little gas may find its way to the
air and do no great harm; a large quantity can kill in a day every
tree whose root system it penetrates. If a tree is killed while it is
leafless, it may give no sign until the following spring when its foli-
age fails to come out, or, coming out, is weak and soon falls. The
only sure test for gas is the odor. If a leak is suspected make a
hole with a crowbar or auger about two feet from the tree and two
or three feet deep and apply one’s nostrils to the opening. If gas
is indicated the leak must be found and stopped at once. Some-
times a tree subjected to gas can be saved by trenching about it and
watering the soil freely, but most cases are hopeless unless only a
little gas has escaped.

Fire must not touch a valued tree. Even the slight heat given off
by a burning leaf pile may cause serious injury.

Salt, lime. Many trees are killed by having brine from ice-
cream tubs, or from salt used to melt pavement ice, penetrate to
their roots, and some are lost by an excess of lime water washed
from nearby mortar beds. Preventive measures only are effective.

Electricity. Ordinary electric currents never injure the vitality
of a tree, and wires carrying a high potential current which might
do damage, especially in wet weather, are bound to be properly in-
sulated to save loss of power. The injury that trees suffer from
electric wires is invariably a cutting or local burning caused by
friction between a loose wire and a branch, or, more often, the
mutilations performed by careless or ignorant linemen. The rules
of the electric companies forbid their employees to use any tree
without the consent of the owner and provide for expert super-
vision of any tree trimming that is authorized. Linemen fre-
quently ignore these rules, but no tree need suffer if its owner will
take the trouble to report the case to headquarters before the dam-
age is done. In many cases the company will completely trim and
fix up a tree for the privilege of carrying their wires thru it. In

this State an owner should always be represented by a Shade Tree
Commission.

STREET TREES.” 19

Fig. 12, A Row of Old Trees Butchered to Make Room for High
Wires. Compare With Fig. 13.

TAR WV VEY

it LWW S

7 AN

RY WLC AZ
WAST

al \
i

Whoa
NC
W\

Fig. 13. The Same Trees as in Fig. 12, With Crowns Saved and
Wires Carried Thru Them in Cables on Low Poles.

,, The construction of electric lines is a necessity of our civilization;
the cost of carrying the wires underground is prohibitive except in

20 SHADE TREE GUIDE.

cities where the service is concentrated; they must therefore be
carried on poles along the streets and must be accommodated to ex-
isting structures and trees. In making these accommodations five
ill govern: : :
en Set the poles as far out of the tree line as possible, to avoid
interference.

2. Use low rather than high poles. Where the trees are small,
and in line with the poles, it is necessary to carry the wires above
them, but as they grow, lower the poles so that the wires may be
carried, on offsets, brackets and insulators, away from or thru the
firm bodies of the trees. A wire fastened so that it does not rub
can do no harm; a bolt carefully driven into the heart of a branch
to support an insulator or a cross arm is always justified ; but any
vigorous tree will’soon outgrow the practical height of electric poles.

3. Let cross arms and insulators be fastened to strong trees,
rather than set poles, where the wires can be properly carried.

4. Provide guard strips on the trees and abrasion moulding on the
wires wherever there is movement and a chance that the tree and
the wire will rub. The removal of small interior branches to make
a clear way for a wire is more apt to be a benefit than an injury to
a tree.

5. Have all cuts larger than 1 inch diameter made smooth and
carefully treated (see p. 14), to prevent the entrance of disease
germs. Prohibit absolutely the use of climbing spurs in any tree.

Diseases

The diseases of trees are chiefly due to abnormal soil or climatic
conditions, to injuries, or to parasitic fungi. The latter sometimes
are very destructive, as in the case of the chestnut blight; more
commonly, as the sycamore anthracnose, they affect the foliage
more or less seriously, but do little permanent harm. Fortunately,
most diseases. attack only one tree species, or one genus,—a law
that makes diagnosis and control less difficult than they would be
otherwise. If a tree begins to fail without apparent cause, it should
be questioned (1) whether it lacks. water; (2) whether it stands
in sterile soil and lacks fertilizer. If either deficiency is discovered
the remedy is obvious (see p. 13). If it is not, a specialist may
be helpful; often he can do nothing. If the fleshy fruiting bodies
of a fungus appear, the tree, or its affected member, is seriously
diseased, and surgery, or the tree’s removal, is indicated. It fre-
quently is better to ignore the signs of internal decay than to start
a cutting which may have no practical limits. Many trees live for
years with their heartwood completely gone. (See Cavities, p. 16).
It is important to distinguish the fungus fruits which appear only
on dead wood, from those which are parasitic. A special publica-
tion, “Common Diseases of Shade Trees,” can be obtained upon re-

at of the State Agricultural Experiment Station, New Bruns-
wick.

DISEASES. 21

Wilting. The leaves of shade trees frequently wilt out of season.
Sycamores are apt to lose their first leaves in the spring from a
prevalent disease. but soon get a second set 4d usually suffer lit-
tle permanently. No specific treatment is advised. Other species,
especially maples, are beset with lice or scale insects which by suck-
ing their juices cause the leaves to die. If the attack is slight let
nature take care of it; if it is serious spray as directed on page 22.
But most trouble of this kind is found in Norway and sugar maples;
the cause is obscure, yet there is reason to believe that too little food,
sometimes too little water, is available to nourish the heavy leafage
that these trees produce. Feeding and watering (p. 13) will usually
prevent this trouble ; if it develops, let the foliage of the affected tree
be curtailed by an interior pruning (ip. 14), then fertilize. (Figs.
8, 9.)

Bleeding. This frequently occurs when branches are cut while
the sap is moving freely. Under such conditions stop all pruning as
loss of sap lowers the vitality of a tree.

Another sort.of bleeding, sometimes called “slime-flux,” and hav-
ing an offensive odor, usually begins in a wound, or behind a filling,
and is often hard to manage. Like a sore in the flesh the worst
possible course is to stop it from the outside; it must be cleansed,
sterilized and made to heal from the inside. Let all affected tissue
—bark and wood, be cut out with a sharp chisel, the wound pointed
at top and bottom (fig. 10) and all edges left smooth: sterilize the
exposed surfaces with weak formalin and cover with tar; never
use cement. Ilf the trouble is due to a split crotch, clean the crack
as well as possible, bolt the parts together, as at D, figure 11, and
treat as above.

Insects

Not all insects are harmful to trees: some, tho harmful, are so
controlled by natural enemies that they rarely are found in num-
bers great enough to do serious damage; others attack only trees
that have been weakened by neglect or injury.

As with diseases, harmful insects usually confine their attacks
to trees of one species, or one genus. Thus the elm beetle attacks
elms only, the hickory borer only hickories. It is entirely safe to
say that a few insects of any kind on a vigorous tree will do little
harm; a few insects on a weak tree should be looked after, and many
insects on any tree demand prompt attention. But to be always on
the safe side every suspected case should be referred to some au-
thority—an entomologist or a forester. Ants are rarely harmful ;
their presence about a tree usually means that honey dew, decayed
wood or fungus growths are available for their food.

Injurious insects are grouped in three classes: biters, suckers,
and borers.

22 SHADE TREE GUIDE.

Biters. These commonly attack the foliage and may work as
adults (beetles) or as larve (caterpillars or worms). Control is
determined by a knowledge of the life history of each species, but a

general remedy is to poison their food. The best means is to’

spray thoroly with arsenate of lead according to directions given on
the commercial packages. Banding a tree trunk with cotton or
some sticky stuff is useful only when the insects are crawling up.
Bag worms, tent caterpillars, etc., which form conspicuous shelters
or colonies in tree crowns, and forms like tussock moths which set
egg masses on nearby structures, as well as on the trees, can often
be destroyed by hand or by fire even more successfully than by

spraying... -

Suckers. These appear as minute, crawling insects, frequently
protected by woolly, waxy or scaly coverings. They locate on the
younger branches, or on the leaves, often in enormous numbers, and
live by sucking the sap. Some forms can be washed away with a
strong jet of water from a hose, but in most severe cases thoro and
repeated spraying with a caustic, or with a penetrating oil, is neces-
sary. Fish-oil soap suds is good for the tenderer forms, especially
when reinforced with tobacco extract; lime-sulfur or soluble oil is
best for those with scaly armor.

Borers. Boring insects work, as beetles or worms, in the twigs
or buds, in heartwood, or, most frequently, in the cambium layer
between sapwood and bark. Their presence is indicated by broken
branches and by small holes in the bark beneath which wood dust
is often found. In our territory a few species attack healthy trees, but

most seek out those whose vitality has been lowered. Control is dif-’

ficult because the pest is mostly out of sight, and, tho help can some-
times be given, it usually is necessary to depend chiefly upon keep-
ing the trees in good health. Against the locust borer anything else
is useless. Any hickory tree that is seriously infested with the hick-
ory borer is doomed and should be cut down and burned without de-
lay for the sake of nearby trees, and the latter should be stimulated
by feeding to ward off attack. Leopard-moth larve are especially
fond of young, newly-planted street trees which are struggling to
establish themselves. A measure of control is possible by cutting
out the boring worms, by crushing them with a wire run into the
burrows, by injecting carbon bisulfid, and especially by encouraging.
insect eating birds. More specific advice is given in a publication
of the State Agricultural Experiment Station, New Brunswick, “In-
sect Enemies of Ornamental Trees and Shrubs,” by Harry B Weiss
which will be sent upon request. ; .

Every Community
in the State should have, and should support, an energetic
SHADE TREE COMMISSION es

The Law Gives It Broad Powers

1. To care for standing trees.

2. To get more trees planted.
3..To guard against injury.

4. To combat insects and diseases.
5. To control electric wiring.

_ASK THE STATE FORESTER FOR ADVICE

The following collateral publications will be sent free upon re-
quest by the State Agricultural Experiment Station, New Bruns-
wick: a

Circular No. 98. Common Diseases of Shade Trees, by M. T.
Cook, State Plant Pathologist.

Circular No. —. Insect Enemies of Ornamental Trees and.
Shrubs, by HarryB. Weiss.