Beekeeping in Tasmania

ALBERT R. MANN
LIBRARY

New York STATE COLLEGES
OF
AGRICULTURE AND HoME ECONOMICS

AT

CORNELL UNIVERSITY

EVERETT FRANKLIN PHILLIPS

BEEKEEPING LIBRARY

aearnell University Library

ing in Tasmani:

wn i

mann

. Bulletin No. 101.

DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, TASMANIA, 1921.

Beekeeping in Tasmania

By G. BINGHAM.
——

THERE is probably no other branch of rural industry which, if given a fair location
and proper attention, that will give as good a return for the time and capital
employed as beekeeping.

- In Tasmania one seldom hears of any very heavy returns, but there are few
seasons when a moderate return may not be looked upon as certain. In some of the
other States, notably in Victoria, one hears of very he&vy crops of honey being obtained
now and then, but along with such heavy returns comes years of a dearth of honey
and pollen, so that, given a series of years, the average is not a great deal better than
may be obtained in Tasmania. There is no room to doubt that beekeeping is still
in its infancy. There are, however, a limited» number of specialist beekeepers
working with the most modern appliances, and their return for a number of years
will show the possibilities of development of the industry. In Tasmania generally
the beekeeper depends chiefly on- ground flora as the source of the nectar secretion,
and probably 80 per cent. of the honey produced comes from this source, as against
90 per cent. from the eucalypts in Victoria.

In some districts there is a fair amount of honey obtained. from the eucalypts
along with the ground flora, and: where this is the case an observant and active
man, who is not afraid to put in long hours during the active working months,
wil! be amply rewarded. }

One of the first questions usually asked by persons becoming interested in bee
culture is: How much honey) will each hive produce in a season? ‘This is a very
difficult one to answer, as ‘there are several factors in determining this. Three
main ones might be mentioned. First, the flora and climatic conditions of the
locality where the bees are kept. The second (and some think this should be put
first) is the ability and experience of the beekeeper; and third, the kind of bees
kept. Under fair conditions, and given good management, a return of 20s. to
25s. per hive for a number of years should be considered a fairly good average.
Taking the above as,a fair general average, it must not be assumed that a man may
increase his income indefinitely by simply increasing the number of his hives. The
best returns will be obtained by limiting the number kept to what a given district
will carry without over-stocking, and the owner can personally look after. ‘

In countries like Tasmania, where there is a large amount of swarming, it might
be safe to say that from 100 to 150 colonies would be as much as the average man

1995

2 BEEKEEPING IN TASMANIA.

could manage profitably without assistance. In giving figures of returns from bee-
keeping, care should be taken that the sources of information are reliable, or 4
false estimate may easily be made. Two examples of what has been done are here
given, as an indication of what is possible. Mr. keeps a number of hives
as a side-line to farming, and during the last five years has averaged rather more
than the amount stated above. He would probably have done much better than
this if he could have had a little assistance at the right time, but is well satisfied
so far. Mr. , during the last six to eight years, has obtained from £90 to
£220, an average of about £150 per annum, working the bees along with another
business, and values his apiary, with plant to work same, now at close to £500;
running from a little under 100 colonies eight years ago to 180 colonies the present
season. Referring to the almost certainty of reasonable returns, the writer has
kept bees in the modern style and with modern methods for 35 years, and during
that time has only once experienced a failure to obtain a payable return, and!
against that could be placed’ five or six seasons of really good returns.

Beekeeping, if adopted as a calling by one having an aptitude and real love
of it,’ combined with good business methods, is a reasonably profitable one, and
becomes a very fascinating occupation. If carried on in connection with some
other form of rural industry, such as fruitgrowing, poultry farming, &c., it is a
valuable side issue, and even if carried on as a hobby it is highly interesting.

Bee culture is, above all else, a healthy outdoor occupation, and not of an
especially laborious kind, to which many might turn with whom an indoor occu-
pation does not agree, or who do not possess the physical strength to engage in a
more laborious occupation.

Beekeeping has an advantage over most other rural occupations, in that there
are several months of the year in which practically there is nothing: to be done,
and the beekeeper can turn his attention to other branches of industry entirely.
For the purposes of becoming conversant with the. habits of bees, to.get some
practice in handling, and confidence, beekeeping may be commenced almost any-
where, but when taken: up as a business a suitable site should, if possible, be secured.
_In selecting a site consideration should be given to at least two main factors; namely,
the amount and variety of honey-producing flora within a radius of from 2 to 3
miles of the site chosen for the apiary.

The permanence of the flora is, however, the most important consideration,
and, with most other industries, water is an important item, as bees, like all forms
of animal life, require a constant supply of water; and it would probably surprise
many people the quantity 50 to 100 colonies of bees can dispose of.

Sire or APiaRy.

Though hives can be placed almost anywhere (even on the roofs of buildings in
cities), it is best to have them on the ground—an even, gently-sloping surface of
gravelly or sandy soil for preference—sheltered if possible from the cold windy
side by artificial or natural means, and sloping to the east or north. Details of
this nature must be left somewhat to circumstances.

If a honey house is built on purpose for the apiary, it is best put at the kh
end of the apiary, as a better view of the yard can be obtained, el the ettering
of heavy supers of combs would be down-hill. It is not advisable to place tthe Hives
right under evergreen trees, such as pines or eucalypts. Colonies in permanent]
shaded: hives do not thrive well, but if convenient they could with advantage ra
placed under deciduous trees. They would then have shade i
the benefits of sunshine in winter. Hy Senanehs aad. baw
When laying out the apiary, if the lay of the ground permits, th,
would be better than single rows, as in groups of three 2 four jhiay group arn

BEEKEEPING IN TASMANIA. 3

with the entrances in different directions, and more hives can be placed on the same
amount of ground than in single rows, also the groups can be placed some distance
from each other. It is advisable not to place the hives facing the south.

Hanpuine Bess.

The sting of the bee is an important factor in preventing the over-production
of honey, as there are so many persons who have an unreasonable fear of getting
stung. Still there are few people to whom the sting of the bee gives more dis-
comfort than just the sharp pain at the moment. The pain and any swelling
usually becomes less and less after a little while, and the seasoned beekeeper usually
takes little notice of the sting, except to remove same. To reduce the effect of @
sting to a minimum it should be removed as quickly as possible by scraping it off
the skin with the finger-nail, or, if both hands are engaged, rubbing it off against
the clothing.

A number of remedies can be suggested to neutralise the effects of a sting.
The blue-bag is quite a popular one. I am not quite sure that yellow or green
would not do as well. Ammonia is certainly more effective, but is more likely to
irritate the bees and cause more stings. Applying a saturated solution of washing
soda is the writer’s usual remedy. For the average person the best thing is to
remove the sting as quickly as possible, and think no more about it.

How to Mage a Starr.

In beekeeping this depends a good deal upon whether the beginner is taking
up bee culture as a business or as a side issue to some other occupation. Uf it 1s
intended to adopt it as a chief calling, a good plan would be, if at all possible, for
the prospective beekeeper to go as a working pupil to an established. and: up-to-date
apiarist for at least one season, even if a premium had to be paid for that season,
as the experience gained would be less costly in all probability than the experience
gained by failure. When the above is not practicable, then a start could be made
with two or three hives, and as experience was gained by practice, also taking
advantage of the knowledge gained by reading, and, where possible, visits to the
apiaries of practical men, the number of hives can be quickly increased to what
the circumstances or the ability of the beekeeper warrant. Right here I would
say every: opportunity should be seized to personally consult an apiarist of some
standing. Much may be learned in this way, there being a kind of freemasonry
among beekeepers, and if asked’ for, most of them will willingly give a novice the
benefit of any knowledge he possesses. en ; :

Everybody handling bees requires two things to start with, viz.: A smoker and
a bee-veil. A good black-net veil will cost about 3s. 6d. to 49. A smoker, accord-
ing to whether made of brass or tin, varies from about 6s. 6d. to 15s. Prices for
all kinds of apiarist’s requirements have increased very much in the last three or
four years. A rather cheaper veil than the above can be obtained of a white net
with a black face piece; the all-black is the best. Ther- are two kinds of smokers—
the straight and the bent nozzle. The bent nozzle is to be strongly recommended, .
as the burning fuel is not likely to fall out when the smoker is directed on to the
frames in a downward direction. Dry decayed wood or bark makes the best fuel,
as it causes a good volume of cool smoke and does not foul the smoker with tar
or soot to such a degree as old sacking or rags do; though, excepting this, old chaff
or other bags make good fuel, but they must be decayed enough to tear up’ readily,
and be quite dry. ;

There are two or three ways of making a.start—(1) full colonies, (2) swarms,
(3) nuclei.

4 BEEKEEPING IN TASMANIA.

(1) Full Colonies, that is, hives with finished combs and brood and bees to cover
them, is the best way to start, if such can be obtained, and mostly they can if a little
trouble is taken and inquiries made. A full hive, containing, say, eight frames, with
bees and laying queen and a good supply of honey, ought to be purchasable at about
25s. to 30s. per hive for black or hybrid bees, to about 40s. or a little more for
Italians with a tested queen. A beginner should be careful as to buying any very
cheap lots, as they often are in a diseased or neglected condition ; these kinds of
colonies are for sale cheap, and it is mostly the neglected hives that are likely to be
infected with disease or have very poor combs.

(2) Natural Swarms.—Where starting with natural swarms and new, clean
hives, the risk of introducing disease is avoided. Swarms can sometimes be obtained
from about the middle of October to the middle of January, the price varying from
5s. to 10s. per swarm, according to weight of bees; 2s. 6d. per pound is not too much
to pay for swarms. If the swarms are procured from a distance, the boxes in which
they are sent should be nearly the size of a kerosene case, with about one-third of
each side cut out and covered with wire cloth, and securely fastened so that the bees
cannot get out. Bees will travel a fair distance in boxes of this character. Hives
and frame should be ready beforehand. When the swarms arrive they should be
placed in a cool spot until the evening. About sundown a bag or cloth can be
spread in front of the hive, and the bees dumped in front, where they will usually
at once commence running into the hive. If, however, they cluster outside without
entering, some should be brushed off as near to the hive entrance as possible with
a small wing or large feather, and a little smoke used on them will generally start

them running in. If the swarms are emptied out of the boxes in which they arrive . .

early in the day, they may cluster in some very awkward place, or even rise up, or
abscond altogether. For this reason the evening is best, and they will usually be
quite settled down to housekeeping by morning. If comb-foundation be used for the
newly-hived swarm, full combs not being available, the frames should have full-sized
sheets of foundation in them, as much drone comb will likely be built if half-sheets
or strips of foundations are used. Full sheets are much the cheapest in the end.
To ensure combs being built fairly in the frames the hives must be placed quite
level from side to side, but may have a little dip to the entrance, so that any water
that may drift in would readily find its way out again. When the combs are almost
built out and are being filled with eggs, brood, and honey, a second super or storey
must be put on, fitted out with combs (if on hand), or full sheets of foundation, and
to induce the bees to enter the top storey one comb from the bottom storey should
be lifted up into the top one, the empty space below being filled with the extra one
from the top. The super may be of the same depth as the lower storey, or it may be
a shallow one. In case of a shallow one being used, there is not as a rule much trouble
in getting the bees, if the colory is fairly strong, to ascend to the new addition. If
further room is needed, a second super can be, and should be, placed on when the
first one. is being fairly well occupied by the bees, a good plan being to put the
seccnd one in between the hive body and the first super put on, leaving the first one
still in the top position. If it is not the intention of the beekeeper to allow the queen
to take possession of the supers, a queen-excluding honey board should be placed on
the top of the brood chamber when the supers are put on.

(3) Nuclei.—The beginner would not perhaps get on well in building up colonies
from nuclei, though it is often done, but requires some little knowledge of what is
required to ensure success in this way, and either of the firstnamed plans would be
preferable until a little practice has been had in handling. Beekeeping may be
started with nuclei as stated above, and for the beginners’ information Sethe
little might here be said of that method. A nucleus is a small colony of nee : eA a
queen, and two or three frames of comb with brood and some honey as food : Wh ;
the purchaser of these small nuclei receive them, the combs, bees, brood “ane at.

BEEKEEPING IN TASMANIA. 5

should be transferred to a full-sized hive, and the hive filled up with full combs if on
hand, full sheets of foundation, or even starters of comb-foundation. Full sheets
are best if full combs are not available. These nuclei may! often be purchased at a
much smaller price than full colonies, and if obtained early in the season and under
favourable conditions, they may be built up to full colony strength’ and have the
advantage that usually no swarming will trouble the owner that season. The first
cost of hives, comb-foundation, &c., will often seem high to a beginner, but it should
be remembered that if properly looked after both hives and combs will last many
years, and it would be wisdom for any beginner to start with a standard make of hive
and good combs. Some may think they can save money by making their own hives,
but when the cost of timber and time taken in the making, and the fact that not
many can make up such materials as exact as is necessary, is realised, it will be
found that machine-made hives are much the best. Whatever style of hive is used,
whether home-made or of standard make, it is strongly recommended to have the
frames for combs of one ‘size. Hoffman or any full-depth frame. should always
be wired, as without wires new combs are apt to break out in handling, or melt down
in very hot weather, especially so if thin material is used in making up the hive.
Shallow frames in supers need not be wired. Bees may be transferred from box
hives to frame hives. A full description of the method, though rather lengthy for
an’ article of this nature, can be given, as also how to induce bees to transfer them-
selves.

Spring ManaGemMentT or Bess.

During the early part of September, in most districts, all hives should be
examined for the purpose of ascertaining if each one has sufficient food, a laying ©
queen, and bees enough to work up to a full colony later on. ‘ This examination
should take place only on, fine mild days, otherwise harm may be done to weak stocks
by letting the warmth of the hive escape, and causing the bees to fly and become
chilled. The smoker should be in good working order, and a whiff or two of smoke
blown in at the entrance. Remove the cover of the hive at one end and blow a few
puffs of smoke over the tops of the frames. If a mat is. used between the top of
frames and the cover the hives may be opened. with less disturbance, less smoke is
needed, and. in consequence the queen may be, and mostly is, much easier to find.
The first consideration at this time is the amount of stores on hand. No hard and
fast. rule as to the amount or weight of honey required to maintain and develop the
colony can be given. The quantity depends on the number of bees in the hive, the
length of time which will usually elapse before a new supply of honey may reason-
ably be expected, and the weather conditions prevailing normally during the five
or six weeks following. There should, however, not be less than 6 or 8 lb. of honey
at this time (say, about two fairly well filled combs of full size) as the consump-
tion of stores greatly increases as the spring advances and brood-rearing develops.
Any shortage of food should be made good by feeding, either with combs of honey,
free from disease, held over for that purpose, or with sugar syrup. If feeding is
found necessary, and sugar syrup is to be fed and no suitable feeders are on hand, a
good idea is to use empty combs.

These may be filled by placing the comb flat in a milk-dish or other suitable vessel,
and pouring the syrup into the cells from a height of about 15 inches. To get a
fine stream of liquid a large teapot or a jug with a pointed spout is a good thin
to use. When the comb has been filled on one side, turn it over and fill the other
side in the same way. The combs should be suspended: over the dish for a little while
to allow the surplus syrup to drain off. If this is not done the syrup dropping about
or on the floor of the hive may attract robbers.

Feeding in this way ig always best carried out in the evening, as any feed that
may drop into the hive ig usually taken care of before morning. To make the syTup

6 BEEKEEPING IN TASMANIA.

for bee food in spring, take one and a half parts of water to one of sugar. Pouring
the sugar slowly into the water and stirring it till all is dissolved. Hot water is
best, but it must be allowed to cool before feeding to the bees. For winter use,
equal parts of water and sugar. Every hive should have a fertile queen and enough
bees to fairly well cover at least two or three combs. If more than this all the better.
If any hives are found queenless at this time, they! should be marked for a further |
examination when all the colonies have been overhauled. Where a number of
stocks are kept there are generally at this period of the year some which may be
weak in bees, though they may have a fertile queen. These queens may often be
used to replace unfertile ones in hives that contain more bees. To transfer. the
queen it is first of all necessary to find and remove the one which is to be replaced.
The following day, towards evening for preference, the small stock with the fertile
queen is placed alongside.’ Both lots are smoked moderately, and the combs with
brood and bees from both put into one hive alternately, so that each comb from
one ‘is between two from the other hive. ,

The outside combs of both are put into the other hive body and then placed
on top of the first, the bees brushed off the combs, and the latter and the hive
body removed. If uniting is done later in the season the second body and: combs
‘may be left on as a super. Another method of uniting which the writer has prac-
tised for a long time, and with much success, is as follows:—Remove the cover or
one hive and cover the frames with a sheet of paper; then place the other body,
bees, frames and all, on top. This should be done at night, when the bees have
ceased flying for the day. The top colony will then be confined in their brood
chamber, and will commence to gnaw the paper away; and in 90 or more cases in
a hundred, by the time this has been done the bees will agree without fighting.
If there is any preference as to the queens, kill the one not desired before uniting,
otherwise leave them alone, and the bees will settle the matter of queens them-
selves.

; SwaRMING.

This is a natural impulse with bees and the means of multiplying the species.
In Tasmania swarming occurs from October to about the middle of January, the
middle of November to end of December being the principal swarming period in
most districts. Swarms will occur in some years even earlier and later than the
times given above. The principal inducements for bees to swarm are generally—
(1) crowded conditions of the bees, (2) the presence of large numbers of drones,
(3) an old or failing queen. Swarming time is usually an exciting time both for
the beekeeper and the bees. Swarms will vary in size, according to the time of
the year, from say 3 lb. to as much as 8 or 10 lb. If the beekeeper is at all anxious
as to the time when he expects swarms, he will need to examine his hives now
and then after the spring has fairly opened, and as the population of the hive
increases and honey: and pollen commence to come in freely, the bees will prepare
for swarming by commencing to build queen cells. These are easily seen, as the
are very much larger than either drone or worker cells. The building of these
cells is an indication that the bees are thinking of. swarming, and this they do
usually as soon as the first royal cells are completed, but not always so, as weather
ccnditions may induce them to hold off for a day or two. If too much increase
is not desired, swarming may be controlled somewhat by eutting out the queen
cells every six or eight days, and giving plenty of room. The bees should never
feel that they are overcrowded if honey production is the chief object. If increase
of swarms is desired, too much extra room should not be given, thus crowding the
bees, and, as it were, compelling them to swarm. When swarming the new loa:
will in most cases circle around for a short time and then settle on any small wee A
or limb of a tree and in a compact mass. As soon as they cluster they should be

BEEKEEPING IN TASMANIA. 7

shaken into a handy box, and as soon as most of the bees have settled down nicely,
carry the box away and place it on the stand it is intended they shall occupy. In
the evening they should be shaken into the hive they are to occupy, and mostly by
morning they have fairly started housekeeping. If there shouldbe a dearth of
honey at this time the new swarm should be fed until same comes in, and if the
weather is very hot it is well to shade the new colony for a day or two, especially if
it is put on all wax foundation.

Honey aND THE Proper Time TO Start EXTRACTING.

A fair indication of the right time to start extracting will be when the combs
to be operated on are at least half to two-thirds sealed over, as it is not wire to
extract too much unsealed honey. This might afterwards ferment and thus be
spoilt. To get the very best quality it should be well ripened in the hive, and if
sealed all over all the better. Wax is a valuable article, and should be taken care
of. The best wax'is obtained from the cappings taken off when extracting, and
this should be attended to as quickly as possible. Where a good cappings melter
or reducer is used there is never a great amount of cappings lying about, as they
are treated as the extracting goes on from day to day. Any broken or old combs
should be melted up and put through some mode of treatment by: pressure to obtain
the maximum of wax. This and any refuse from the hives should be attended to
as often as it accumulates, and not left lying about for any length of time, as
the wax moth will soon find it and in time destroy same. It should be men-
tioned here that any refuse (usually called slum gum) from. a hive should be either
burned or buried, the former for preference, and nothing left lying about for bees
to get at, as this often induces robbing, and is also lable to spread disease if there
is any present. Bees, like all other forms of animal and: insect life, are subject
to certain diseases, and the beginner should make a study of these to be able to
diagnose them at the commencement, and apply suitable treatment as promptly
as possible. Foul brood is one of the worst enemies the beekeeper has to contend
with, as it attacks the larve in the cells, and any treatment that would cure the
disease would kill the bees. For the comfort of the prospective beekeeper, how-
ever, it may be said that foul brood may be eliminated, even if not cured, and
it should always be taken in hand as soon as possible, if conditions are favourable
for treatment when discovered, but it must not be played with. It, of course,
means some work and great care in dealing with it, owing to its infectious nature.
Dysentery: this is often caused by unsuitable food or long confinement to the hives
through bad weather. A spell of fine weather will usually put this right. Para-
lysis: this is a disease more especially of hot climates, and is not very much to be
feared in Tasmania.

ImpLemMents NEEDED.

As most persons thinking of engaging in bee culture will require to know as
nearly as possible what special implements are required, it will be well to enumerate
the principal ones, with probable cost of same. As mentioned before, a smoker
and veil are needed, costing from 6s. 6d. to 15s., according to make 3 3s. to 4s. 6d.
for a good veil; a hive tool, costing about 2s. 6d.; an uncapping knife, or, better,
two at 7s. 6d. each. An extractor: this machine is made in various sizes, from
the 2-frame ‘‘ Novice ’’ to a 6 or 8 frame machine. A suitable sized one for
an apiary of up to 100 colonies, or even a little more, would be a
9-framed one with 12-inch baskets. This would be suitable for the ordinary full-
depth comb, one in each basket, or two combs in each basket of the ‘‘ Ideal ae size.
A 2-frame 12-inch basket machine should be purchased for £7 to £8, with a little
less for the 10-inch basket size; an uncapping box to hold the cappings as they
are sliced off the combs. This need not be an expensive affair. The writer recom-

8 BEEKEEPING IN TASMANIA.

mends either a capping melter, or, if the beekeeper is intending to have any-
thing over 40 to 50 colonies, a cappings reducer. This machine would cost at the
present time about £10 10s. A cappings melter would only be about 30s. to
35s. <A press for obtaining the wax out of old combs can be very cheaply made,
but is an essential article. A description of same can be given. A machine for
making foundation is a very useful article, and almost a necessity if more than
50 colonies are kept. Under that amount it would be better for the beekeeper to
buy the foundation necessary. Incidentally it might be mentioned that foundation
mills at the present time are at a. prohibitive price, but sometimes a second-hand
one may be obtained at a reasonable figure. A bee-proof room for an extracting
room and for storage of surplus combs, honey, &., is absolutely necessary, as,
although while a good honey flow is on, extracting may be carried on with. open
doors and window; still, some work has often to be done when a dearth of honey
occurs. Then it is imperative that the bees be entirely Ss from where opera-
tions are being carried on.

JOHN VAIL, ;
GOVERNMENT PRINTER, TASMANIA,

Cornell University

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