Cocker's manual, devoted to the game fowl, their origin and breeding, rules for feeding, heeling, handling, etc., description of the different breeds, diseases and their treatment

gore ane

From the Personal
Reference Library of

PAUL IVES

ALBERT R. MANN
LIBRARY

New YorK STATE COLLEGES
OF
AGRICULTURE AND HomME ECONOMICS

AT

CORNELL UNIVERSITY

THE GIFT OF
PAUL POMEROY IVES 2D
IN MEMORY OF
PAUL POMEROY IVES

Date Due

Library Bureau Cat. No. 1137

Cornell University

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Cocker’s Manual,

DEVOTED TO THE

GAME FOwWwWt:L,,
THEIR ORIGIN AND BREEDING

RULES FOR

FEEDING, HEELING, HANDLING, Etc,

Description of the Different Breeds,

DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT.

SECOND EDITION (Revised),

rE". EL. GRAY.

PUBLISHED AND SOLD BY THE AUTHOR,
1878.

BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN;
FROM THE J spacer a PRINTING HOUSE,

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by

F.H. GRAY,
in the office of the Librarian, at Washington.

CONTENTS.

Origin of the Game,....
The Game Fow).,....
Breeding Ganies,...
Selection of Breeders,.
‘ire of Breeders,....
Breeding to Feather,... ae
Breeding In-and-In,....... feavsieicd
Crossing of the Game,.
Breeding for the Pit,..
Influence of the Sire,..
Setting Hens.,.....
Young Chicks... .
Rules for Feeding,.
Stamper’s Rules,.
General Remarks,.
Trimming Fowls for the Pit,
Rules for Heeling.,.......
Description of Gafts,..
Regulation Spur,..
Singleton Spur,...
Cincinnati Heel,.... see seseeeeee
Thimble Heel,
Full Drop Socket

Philadelphia Rules,.
Western Rules.......
Southern Rules,....
English Rules,
English Notes on Cocks an
A Plea for the Pit,
Description of Games,.
Karl Derbys,..........
Seftons,.............
Ivish Dare-Devels,.
Heathwoods,.
Red Horse,.
Counterfeits, .
Red Quills,..
Claibornes,....
The Tartar Fowl,...
Jack McCleHans,
Dusty Millers,
The EKslin Fowl,.
Irish Slashers,...
Stonefence Fowl.
Newbold Reds.....
Irish Muffs,...
Baltimore Tassels,....
Rattlers,...... ror
Red Rippers,....
Dominic Games,.
Irish Piles,.........
Brass Back Games,
Henny Games,.......
Breeding Coops and Pens.
Di is

Roup,
Pip, or Gapes,...
Indigestion,
Moulting.
Chicken Pox,
Running at the Nose, or Catarrh, eesere 106

CONTENTS,

Diarrhoea, or Dysentery,
Costiveness,
Limed Leg,
Rheumatism, ...........
Rattles, or Asthma...
Fever,....... eesalassee
Loss of Feathers,
Eating their Feathers,....sccccccee
Inflammation, or Swelling of the Eyes,
Melancholy and Moping, sitaesumeaeeniaas esebessies
Apoplexy,
TTB, ocvee vecsentescesere-soe
Care of Wounded Fowl.,..
The Standard of Excellence, ‘
Black-Breasted Red GaMes.........ccereeees
Brown-Red Games, “
Ginger-Red GAIN 8 ses. ccctazsvansucconcvesessentteacvercs
Yellow Duckwing Games,
Silver Duckwing Games.
Red Pile Games,........
White Pile Games,
White Games,...scccscccssssscesccesereres
Black Games,
Blue Games.......
Gray Games...
Spangled,..........

Duckwing Games,..
Dominic Games,.....
Brown- Red Games,
Yellow Duckwing ‘Games,
Black-Red Tartar Games.,...
Regulation Spur, Bazese
Singleton Spur,.
Cincinnati Heel, .
Thimble Heel...... evervess ese
Full Drop Socket Heel...

Half Drop Socket Heel,
Red Pile Games, cane 61
BOW -REd, GAMES) ns cessccscrsssese aiseocnieaevessasicarscdocssisveccsceratyctstadaneusnensases viaesasanrarsaanssnecved 67

Black-Breasted Red Games. 77
White Georgian Games, 83
Earl Derby Game 92
Breeding Coop, 102
Tartar Game Cock. lll
Pit Fowl..... 120
ADVERTISEMENTS.
H, H. Stoddard, Hartford, Conn.,....sssescsssoees tds teatetyts chee: 147
Wm. J. Healey, Mineral Point, Wis., e » 148
Harry K. Welsh, Y WOVE, “POMMN. ,.secsevssssnssecsecccawsdessensseasctyswoseennssssrene . 148
Louis Sendker, Parker’ City, Penn. 148
L. E. Sinsabaugh, Syracuse, Nebraska... . 149
©. J. Ward, Chica; 0; Lligeswegecesenaciexe 150
H. H. Sto dard, artford, Conn... 1651
F. H. Gray, Battle Creek. Mich. 9 152
Daniel Allen, Galt, Ontario, Canada, 153

Joseph M. Wade, Springfield, sepia
H. H, Stoddard, Hartford, Conn,....

PREF ACH.

With respect to the present work, it has many advantages over that
of the first addition, Everything has been treated in so plain a man-
ner that all may understand it. The rules laid down by the best
sportsmen have been carefully attended to. With the author’s prac-
tical knowledge of the different subjects he has advanced, nothing but
what he knows to be consistent, and the fancier will meet with more
accurate ideas of the subject, while his practice will give him daily
proofs of its utility. As such it is presented to the public, without a
doubt but that it will meet with a candid and favorable reception.
We feel obliged to acknowledge an indebtedness to those who have
favored us in many particulars, and by their contributions have mate-
rially lightened our labors, and those manifesting an interest in our
welfare have our best wishes. In closing, it is but just to say, in our
work we have been aided by many standard and reliable works on
poultry, to all of which we have given due credit.

d ar )
“j|___ ORIGIN OF THE GAME. _f

7

The origin of the Game Fowl is a point that would involve am im-
mense amount of labor and considerable time without leading us to
any practical conclusion. It has proved a most perplexing question
notwithstanding naturalists, historians, and game fanciers have written
much concerning it, and still no one theory has been accepted by all
as correct in every particular. We find almost every known part of
the globe has been honored with their origin. Many refer to India
as the original country, and possibly aver from thence they were car-
ried over the world. Others to the contrary, forcibly assert that
England, or the Isle of Rhodes, or some other place were their orig-
nal countries. In this way, perhaps, we could go on and give article
upon article yet be no nearer their origin than we were at ‘first, and
we do not intend to furnish many new ideas upon this subject as it
would only be filling our work up with what many care so little about.

In closing we simply say, by permission we have been allowed to
publish extracts from a short letter written us some time since upon
this subject, and we have no hesitation in saying the writer has written
more concerning Game Fowls than any other person living, having
traveled in all parts of the globe and seen every variety he speaks of
in their natural state. We cannot do otherwise than take his ideas for
granted, knowing full well that he is conversant with what he is writ-
ing about: ‘‘As for all Game fowls coming from India, it is nonsense ;
but one yellow and willow-legged sort come from that country. The
white, brown, black carp and blue-legged are the old British sorts,
but as the whole of their ancestors of both Britons and Saxons came
from Persia in Asia originally, it is probable that all our white-skinned

game fowls are of Persian origin, and that all the yellow-skinned sorts
a 5

Io COCKER’S MANUAL.

are of Indian origin, and also the gypsy-combed and dark-faced will
be from there too. There are five colors in India still: First, Black-
breasted Reds, legs willow, eyes red and comb red. Second, Ginger
Reds, legs yellow, eyes red and combs red. Third, Gingers, legs yel-
low, eyes yellow and combs yellow. Fourth, Brown-reds, legs dark
willow, dark eyes and dark faces. Fifth, Ginger-brown Reds, legs
dark willow, dark eyes and dark faces. All of these colors are to be
found, small and quite wild, and are all originals. All the others are
made-up colors, except perhaps the Red Duns or Ginger Blues, which
some say are original. Duck Wings and all grays are made-up colors,
though many will say the contrary. White Piles and Blacks are the
most artificial colors of all and took much trouble to make up.’’

THE GAME FOWL.

For the present type of the Game Fowl we are without doubt in-
debted to the contests that for centuries incited that strife among the
breeders of it, which has in this way given so good results. The Eng-
lish Game Fowl as now seen is unequaled in form and carriage and is
everywhere regarded as the highest possible type of gallinaceous beau-
ty. Just before the abolishing of cock-fighting in England by law,
we find Newcastle, Cheltenham, Chester, Gloucester, Norwich, Lan-
caster, Stamford and other smaller places were noted for their fighting
strains of Games, and at one time the cockers of Newcastle challenged
the world. This was just subsequent to one of their last meetings, at
which over two hundred cocks were fought. Cock-fighting in Eng-
land is greatly on the decline owing to stringent laws. We also have
the same in this country, but from reading the reports of several
mains the past few seasons we should judge it was more on the increase,
as seldom before has such large sums been placed on each side or
mains been more frequent. In consequence a demand has been ex-
cited for a game fowl greater than ever before known, and not only is
attention being paid them by fanciers and cockers alone, but other
breeders of fancy poultry whose yards are now considered incomplete
without one or more varieties.

In this country, fanciers believe more in crossing, and for this reason
many of our best games cannot be claimed as any particular strain, but

COCKER’S MANUAL. II

generally take the name of the breeder or some fancy name, given
them by him for some known fighting quality, and among such per-
sons are they to be found in the highest degree of perfection, and can
be shown of various colors. Every country has its games, as we have
stated, and just so long as they are grown so long will more or less of
them be obliged to endure the severe tests well known to cockers in
one or more hattles.

We do not intend to treat at any length upon the subject of cock-
fighting, as perhaps the views we might express would be unpopular
with some and at the same time do us no real good. Every cocker will as
readily bet on his own fowl as a lover of a good horse will upon his
animal, All kinds of sport has its admirers, and each one will stand
up for his just as strong as the other will cry it down, consequently we
shall not point out the cruelty of it nor speak of any of the charges
brought against it.

Games compared with other fowl look small, but on handling it
will be found they are larger than they look, and are more than the
average size, but owing to their quarrelsome dispositions are a hard
fowl to manage; still, they will often run peaceably together as soon
as one becomes master. Game fowls often reach as high as eight
pounds in weight, and yet the cock will appear as light and active as
an ordinary fowl will of smaller size. A true game fowl should be of
bold carriage, the eye large and bright, the beak well shaped and
strongly made, the body should be broad between the shoulders, grad-
ually tapering to the tail, the breast should be broad, full and straight,
the thighs short and well turned, the legs stout, the foot flat and
strong with a long claw and the spur rather low on the leg. For the
game cock to show fight well he must be in the best of health, for
though possessing superior qualities physical weakness and general de-
bility will sometimes cause him to seek flight. Activity, determina-
tion, willingness to encounter, force in fighting, etc., are the distin-
guishing characteristics of the game. No other fowl possesses to so
great an extent these peculiar qualities. Not only are they noted for
their bold carriage but for their disposition to receive severe punish-
ment in a most courageous manner.

We find in the Journal of Horticulture the following article upon
this subject, written by one of the oldest and most reliable breeders in
England, which we consider worthy of notice:

12 COCKER’S MANUAL.

“Game fowls have not gained their popularity as other breeds, by
one class of ‘admirers only. Many breed them for table purposes,
justly preferring their delicate white skin and flesh, round, plump ap-
pearance, and rich nutritious game-like flavor, both of flesh and eggs,.
to all other poultry. Others breed them for the beauty of their ele-
gant muscular symmetry and brilliancy of feather ; whilst a few of the
old school still breed them for those points so ominous of sudden
death, and every Englishman admires their unrivaled courage. Now,.
how far do exhibition birds supply either of these requirements? Cer-
tainly not as a table fowl, as fully ninety per cent. of show birds have
dark legs and skins, although the purestand best Game fowls ever seen
in England, consequently in the world, have had white legs; and in
shape a roasted or boiled exhibition Game fowl more nearly resembles
a Heron in its narrow shape and length than a true Game fowl, whilst
for tenderness and flavor of the two breeds, well, you can dine on one
and try to on the other.

“‘As for symmetry the true Game fowl was bred so as to have the
greatest possible strength and activity, combined with the lightest
weight possible to go to scale with. The show bird is bred with a
beak and head as long and weak as a snipe, yet we are asked to be-
lieve with all this want of leverage he can hold and tear like a hawk ;
he is thin, long-necked, has long legs, and is stilty upright, conse-
quently has not the least spring or force to fight if he wished—has no
.forehand ; in fact, a cup-winner is out ef all proportion, for if a 5-lb.
cock has one quarter inch too much length of body, leg or head, he
must necessarily be so. As to color, the original Black-breasted Dark
Red has not been seen in a show pen since the first few shows at Bir-
mingham, and is as different in color to our present Black-breasted
Reds of the show pen as they are to Brown-breasted Reds, which are
also a new-made color, being totally unknown to the old frequenters
of the Royal cock pit.

‘As to their fighting it scarcely requires a word. They were never
intended for it, and it would be a cruelty to put them to what they
either will not or cannot do. Mr. Wright has seen both breeds, and
‘Duckwing’ has bred both, I have bred both, and used them suc-
cessfully for each purpose, and I quite endorse ‘Black Red’s’ opinion.

“*{ do not write with the spleen of a disappointed exhibitor, as Iam
sure I can compare results favorably with any exhibitor in England

(te

DUCKWING GAMES.

COCKER’S MANUAL. 15

with the same number of entries, and I am not quite ignorant of the
fighting bird, having fought my first main in public, with the parish
constables keeping order in the pit, about the same time as ‘Duck-
wing’ began breediug, and have seen a score or two of cocks judged
by merits in private since he wrote his article in the Journal asking
for the points of the Malay in our exhibition birds. I would ask where
the whip-tail came from, carried as only a Malay and a craven does
carry? What is the first thing a bad-bred one and a craven does, when
intending to fly the pit? (I am sure ‘Duckwing’ knows, as I think we
have had some conversation on this subject), and is it not to fold his
flag and put it in true exhibition posture? whilst the up and spread
tail belongs only to the true Game cock. ‘Duckwing’ must surely in
varied experience have seen half-bred Malays awarded cups, and on
the second and third days of the show seem so ashamed of their’ de-
ception that they would neither crow nor fight. I knew a sporting
American colonel to take thirteen cocks to America from our best
shows, 2nd after journeying 3000 miles with them found all were dung-
hills, except two low-priced despised yellow-legged ones. I have just
received a letter from a breeder and shipper of Game fowls in America,
asking me to try to get him something better than the trash exhibited
in this and his own country. Our Journal stated that many of the
birds at the last Birmingham show were as much Malays as game, and
an old and able correspondent of this Journal, ‘Newmarket,’ wrote me
to the same effect, and no one knows a Game cock in or out of con-
dition better than he does. I recently wrote for a brood cock to a
‘gentleman who has long bred and shown as good Game fowls as any
man in England, and he requested me to see a bird he was sending to
a show in my district. It was awarded the cup, but I thought it the
coarsest bird of the Malay type I had ever seen him exhibit, wrote him
to that effect, and his reply informed me that he fully anticipated my
verdict, saying that he had purchased this one not to please himself
but the judges; and as this bird has taken as many, if not more cups
than any other bird shown this season, it would seem he has been very
successful in doing it.

“As to length of head, I know an exhibitor who has a stag only
three removes from a prize Malay hen, whose head for mere length
would beat most prize-winning show birds; and of the many
birds I have known so manufactured for the show pen, a judicious se-.

16 COCKER’S MANUAL.

lection has obviated all trouble in molding the head into the required
shape. Not only does every poultry show contain these mongrels in
abundance, our judges encourage them, and even the illustrations of
our modern poultry books would pass muster for improved Malays, and
are mere caricatures of real Game fowls, such as are seen in ‘Rural
Sports,’ from a good painting by Marshall, of one of the most perfect
cocks ever seen: It took centuries of careful breeding to gain that
perfection, and the trial was often for a fortune, thousands depending
on the prowess of a single bird. Now, we are told a few years’ breed-
ing them to be shown a score together for a few shillings or a cup has
improved them, and readers are asked to believe it. I shall give them
Punch’s advice to those contemplating marriage and say, ‘Don’t.’ ’’—
[CornrisH DucKWING.

BREEDING GAMES.

The breeding of Games is just as much a science as the breeding of
other fancy poultry, and it is a mistaken idea of fanciers to think as
they have purchased perhaps at a large expense a pair or trio of Games
from some noted breeder’s yards that it is all that is required to pro-
duce a number of fine fowl; but care, time, and a large amount of
patience will also be needed. They can be just as easily raised as
other breeds of fowls and at no more expense to the breeder, and as
he grows in experience so much less will be the work, as each season
will teach him something new. They being hardy can be confined in
very small runs, and for this reason can be bred in small places as they
have a strong constitution. We find them in their prime when two
years old, but as a general thing the cock wears out faster than the
hen, although the hens at an old age only lay about one clutch. We
now have a cock in our possession which is over twelve years of age,
and as far as we can notice appears as young as a two-year-old, and
his stag’s comb as strong and vigorous as any we raise. But very few
Game fowl ever live to this age, as owing to their quarrelsome dispo-
sitions sooner or later they die by accident or some disease caused by
fighting.

COCKER’S MANUAL. 17

Stags bred to pullets will produce good chickens, but as a.general
thing full grown or two-year-old birds bring the best.

A writer in the Journal of Horticulture says, ‘‘In crossing colors in
breeding the following cases—first, when there are more than six hens
to each cock ; second, when the hens are dark with dark legs and the
cock light ; third, when the hens are full grown and the cock not full
grown ; also in breeding games from hens with a barn-door cock the
the progeny will be gamer than if breeding from a game cock and
barn-door hen. The fighting qualities are, however, inherited mare
directly from the cock than from the hen. In breeding Game fowls
together, which made the best breeders for the pit in general, more
careful of their brood cocks than of their brood hens. In all animals
of both sexes those taking the most after their sires are considered to
be the strongest and most spirited. Asa rule, breeding from fowls
not full grown is a great mistake, as even if they produce quicker
birds (which some say, though contrary to my own experience), they
at any rate produce weaker, smaller and softer birds both in bone and
flesh.”’

It is a well known fact that every breeder has his own ideas and
no amount of talking could induce him to change it. One of these is
not dubbing his breeding cocks, as they select their finest stags and
keep them undubbed, putting them on a walk alone with a few hens
only. When our stock has been bred in-and-in too long they begin
to be slower in their motions, the hens do not lay as well and also
moult later each season and feather more slowly. In this case they
should be crossed with a strong, healthy brood cock, as all birds from
a first cross are more vigorous if the cross is good; and also best for
the pit. Each succeeding cross grows less vigorous and spirited. By
keeping two distinct breeds a first cross can always be had when wanted.
It is said the first laying hens never breed the best birds, i. e., hens
that lay in winter are not the best to breed from, having exhausted
themselves before the proper season.

‘Breeders for the pit generally allow three hens to the stag, and five
to the cock, but we are convinced from our own experience that the
best stock can be bred from a single cock and two good hens; still it
is often the case that two hens will not prove sufficient and others will
have to be put in. But as a general thing we like to breed from two
hens if possible. Successful breeders avoid breeding in-and-in, and it

18 COCKER’S MANUAL.

is shown many good breeds have been ruined by so doing, although
they were once very successful. To avoid this American breeders
breed twice in and once out, while it is said the English breeder’s rule
is once in and once out. Our advice is, if you have a good winning
strain take good care of them and breed from them the best shape and
most active and healthiest, and do not destroy their good properties
by constantly crossing and changing them.

SELECTION OF BREEDERS.

As the selection and mating of our breeding stock is not attended
without some difficulty much care and patience will be required to be
successful. Fanciers who select their cocks from one yard and hens
from another must not expect to raise fowls that are reliable, although
their chicks will not be related. As the hens give us size and shape
too much care cannot be taken in selecting them. Each fancier has
his own ideas as to what his breeding stock should be, yet we often
see some very poor fowls on such breeders’ yards. Some fanciers pre-
fer small birds, others medium size, and again others extra large ones,
and each one will show his own individual preference for one over the
other. Perhaps there are some grounds on this point for question,
but for us we have no hesitation in giving our judgment for the larger
bird, as we can then get all the smaller ones we want without breeding
especially for them, as we contend that a good large one is better than
a good small one, and one of extra size with all the other good quali-
ties should not be disposed of but be highly prized as one of our
breeders. Another wrong is also done by some fanciers in letting
their old and well tried stock run out and breeding some new breeds
they know nothing of when, perhaps, they find they do not equal
their old favorites and then lament for not breeding from them. They
are too apt to be taken up with some new breed and each season try-
ing something new, and for this reason the breeder should understand
his stock thoroughly. It is a well known fact that good qualities in
parents will become fixed in the offspring if care is shown in the se-
lection of the breeders. The age of the breeding stock is an import-
ant consideration. Some fanciers claim no hen should be selected as

COCKER’S MANUAL. 1g

a breeder until she is two years old, as pullets’ eggs have a tendency
to produce weakly chickens, and also claim the same in breeding from
too young a cock. We always have our breeding stock full grown if
possible ; if not we prefer to breed cocks to pullets and hens to stags.
If the fancier’s object is breeding to feather, great care should be
taken in selecting his breeders or otherwise the object sought will not
be obtained. If it is desired to preserve a particular color, the hen
selected for the purpose should be the same in color as the cock but of
different blood, that is to say, not closely or nearly related. Some
claim the principle in breeding to be observed is, ‘‘like produces
like,’’ but still this is not an unerring guide as we can breed from any
stock of fowls, and not unfrequently an extra fine specimen will ap-
pear, and by breeding such specimens or pairs we cannot obtain their
like in all cases, at least a portion of their progeny will possess the quali-
ties distinguishing the originals. If, however, we select the best pro-
duced by such fowls as breeders and continue from season to season
selecting the best samples we shall in time arrive at our desire and ob-
tain a permanent improvement on the original stock. If size and
strength are desired the selections should include large hens or pul-
lets with good build, legs and general make. If intended for the pit
special attention should be given to abtaining a breed of good size
with large bone and muscle—the cock well set upon his legs, broad at
the shoulders, wing strong and of good length and a tough wiry
feather, one that continually urges the battle and gives his adversary
no rest, and a stock whose gameness you have often seen tested. With
such a cock placed with hens selected for the many fine points which
they possess, being good layers and setters, the chickens will be noted
for their courage and gameness. Some like a cock to be full of mo-
tion while in hand and continually talking and chatting, with his legs
drawn close up to his body.

CARE OF BREEDERS.

All fanciers must bear in mind that great care and attention must
be paid to our breeding fowl during the breeding season. Particular
attention should be given to our breeding cocks, as they must be in

20 COCKER'S MANUAL.

the best of feather and health, as it is well known that breeding from
diseased fowls result in chickens with weak and sickly constitutions,
small in leg, bo1.e and muscle. We do not believe in too expensive
coops for our breeding pens, but light and roomy, as we use ours only
uring this season; but if intended for winter as well as summer use
more expense will be added in making them. Care must be taken in
feeding them and not supply too much food, as the birds may become
fat and thus defeat our object. It is not well to keep them confined
to one kind of food but a change should be given them often; fresh
water must be supplied them daily, and if extremely warm weather
at least twice each day. If a cock takes a dislike to a hen she
should be removed at once as it would be useless to endeavor to breed
from her and would result in her death, or at least herinjury. The eggs
should be collected regularly each day, marking the name of breed
and day on each. If this plan be adopted great disappointment will
be prevented in the hatching of the eggs.

BREEDING TO FEATHER.

Since our Poultry Standard has come into existence and our poultry
shows more numerous we find much attention being paid to breeding
games to feather, caring more for exhibition birds than our old pit
fowl which, owing to the stringent laws now in force has done much
to put them out of use. Yet, notwithstanding this fact, we find that
many old cockers discard breeding to feather, caring more for the ac-
tion and fighting qualities of the cock than for his appearance.
Among the cockers this class are greatly in the majority. A fancier,
however, whose object is to breed exhibition or prize birds gives close
attention to breeding to feather, to do which successfully several
things are necessary to be observed. Just as much science will be
needed in breeding fowls to feather as for any other purpose, and in
breeding for this point it is generally expected that we will produce
fowls of the same feather, but experience shows all will not be the same,
- and so it is with standard birds. Many chapters have been written in
which are given various rules and instructions for breeding to feather
if this or that advice is followed. But there are many important points

COCKER’S MANUAL. 23

besides these which must be considered as well as plumage, although
it is one of the main objects in judiciously mating for breeding to
feather, yet we have other well known points that we must not over-
look but have an eye on form, size, vigor and action, as while we are
breeding to feather none of these other qualities should be lost sight
of. Select only your best birds, mate them carefully for color, avoid-
ing as much as possible breecling brothers and sisters together, keeping
our selected stock closely by themselves. By carefully following the
course suggested you will succeed in getting a larger number of chick-
ens of the right color and the more valuable for breeders.

BREEDING IN-AND-IN.

It has long been a disputed point whether the system of breeding
in-and-in or the opposite one of crossing had the greatest tendency te
maintain or impvove the quality of the breed. Both systems we find
here have able and earnest advocates, each confident of being in the
right. Asa genera] thing in-and-ia breeding is not looked upon in
this country with as much favor as in England, still we now and then
find some old cocker who perhaps brought with him a trio or pair of
some favorite breed of games, and has kept breeding them together
ever since in order to keep his breed pure, and to his sorrow he gives
them up as worthless for fighting. There has been much written upon
this subject the past season. We find one English breeder of some repu-
tation holding to it as if it were his only hope, showing how it worked in
animals, why not the same in game fowls? No doubt they can be in-
bred for a number of years, but in doing so intelligence on the part of
the breeder is required, also great care and study in the selection of
his breeding stock. It is almost impossible nowadays to obtain a breed
of games pure. You will find when you breed them that they have
one or more crosses, and sooner or later this will show itself, and yet
this in-and-in breeding will produce bad results when practiced by an
inexperienced breeder, and to do it successfully must understand his
fowl. It is a well known fact that some of our finest horses, cattle
and sheep have been produced by this in-and-in breeding. To pre-
serve certain characteristics an amount of close breeding is necessary,

Aw

24 COCKER’S MANUAL,

but for strength of constitution the less the better. When our fowls
have been bred in-and-in too long they begin to be slower in their
motions, the hens do not lay as well as before, and they moult later
and slower each season.

“The question of in-breeding has never been settled by the uniform
custom of any considerable number of breeders. The practice in
England appears to be once in and once out, avoiding incest, while
the American practice leans to the practice of twice in and once out.
Some of the best English authorities have recommended the custom
that prevails in this country, though it is not reduced to anything like
uniformity among American breeders. By in-and-in breeding is un-
derstood to imply the union of near relatives, avoiding kindred of the
first degree. Long continued in-breeding would tend to diminish the
bone and reduce the dimensions of the muscular form and propor-
tions. It therefore becomes necessary to breed out to strangers, to
keep up size and bone. As soon as this end is accomplished, we can
breed back to kindred, and refine bone and muscle. By this simple
process of enlarging and refining, we get the most substance in the
least comrass.

“The wild horse, in promiscuous intercourse, avoids consanguinity,
or continued in-breeding in the highest degree, by the simple law of
nature. It is a wise provision, designed to perpetuate the race. The
strongest of the male species govern the flock and perpetuate their
kind. The king of the harem soon gets displaced by some young,
courageous rival, who usurps the throne, and holds dominion through
his day and generation. He is succeeded by’ some other rival, who
holds dominion over the flock till his successor becomes qualified, by
brute force, to displace him. We have here the system of in-breeding
and out crossing agreeable to the laws of nature. The deductions
from the wild horse, roving at large, are decidedly in favor of in-
breeding. It would be a natural conclusion from the common course
of things, that when we have the best possible form and action ma-
tured in the breed, not to lose half the benefit of superior excellence
by crossing out to strangers except to enlarge the reservoir to hold
more substance. We must keep all the improvement we have got, and
get all we can.’:

.

COCKER’S MANUAL. 25
CROSSING OF THE GAME.

There can be no doubt that crossing as practiced by the more ex-
perienced and cautious breeders is of real benefit as it hardens up the
feather, increases the size and gives us more bone and muscle, and
also helps lessen the amount of superfluous flesh, the last being one
great point for an old cocker as a less amount of work is required to
prepare him for pit fighting. The game fowl is unlike many others,
consequently the benefits of crossing can be realized ina single season,
the results of which can well be shown, perhaps in some of our fowls
in days gone by, but well remembered by many old fanciers and who
still speak with as much pride of their Claibornes, Heathwoods, Bal-
timores, etc., as our great horsemen do of their Longfellow, Bassett,
etc. Here the benefit of crossing was shown in its full force, as no
fowl was ever produced that excelled them in an old cocker’s eye, as
determination and force in fighting could here be found. Many
think as they have two strains of games that is all that is needed to
make a cross, consequently their fowls in time show much worse than
their old ones. Nothing can be gained in crossing without regard to
form, size and general characteristics of your breeding stock. Expe-
rience of old and reliable fanciers everywhere have shown this, and all ;
breeders should seek to be as near perfect as possible. We believe it
eannot be disputed that old cockers have made the game what they
are, giving him his ferocious disposition, hardness of feather and per-
fect build, and it never could have been done without care and study
in breeding them.

By crossing is meant the mixing of breeds, and if two towls of dif-
ferent breeds cross a third is invariably produced different from either
and partaking to a large extent of the qualities of both is frequently
and it may be invariably said better than either. The follewing arti-
ele upon this subject was written by Newmarket in the Journal of
Horticulture :

“Some breeders assert that in crossing, color and form or shape are
derived chiefly from the cock, and that size, vigor and constitution.
come from the hen. I would not, however, ‘give ‘much for any brood
cock that did not impart all qualities to his progeny in excess of the
hen. * * * * * * * As to crossing and mixing the different
colors I think that Piles and Red Duns cross best of all, both being of

3

26 COCKER’S MANUAL.

alight red. Reds will always spoil the color of grays, giving them a
tinge of red and brown, but grays do not spoil the reds. The best
colored Duckwings are bred from the dark gray cross though this
spoils dark grays. It is well known to all good breeders that crossing
colors is very injudicious, as a rule all the best breeders liking each
sort to be exactly alike both in shape, in feather and in blood, and
disliking all mongrel mixed colors and crosses. * * * * * *
In crossing colors when the hens are of a stronger and harder color
than the cock, most of the cock chickens will be the color of the hen
and the pullets the color of the cock. For instance, in crossing brown-
red hens with a willow-legged black-breasted red cock most of the
cocks will be brown-reds and most of the pullets ot the partridge color.
This. however, is not a good cross.”’

Darwin says: ‘There can be no doubt that crossing, with the aid
of rigorous selection during several generations, has been a potent
means in modifying old races, and in forming new ones. Lord Or-
ford crossed his famous stud of greyhounds once with the bull- -dog,
which breed was chosen from being deficient in scenting powers, and
from having what was wanted, courage and perseverance. In the
course of six or seven generations all traces of the external form of the
bulldog were eliminated, but courage and perseverance remained.
Certain pointers have been crossed, as I hear from the Rev. W. D.
Fox, with the fox-hound, to give them dash and speed. Certain
strains of Dorking fowls have a slight infusion of Game blood; and I
have known a great fancier who on a single occasion crossed his tur-
bit-pigeons with barbs, for the sake of gaining greater width of beak.

‘In the foregoing cases breeds have been crossed once, for the sake
of modifying some particular character; but with most of the im-
proved races of the pig, which now breed true, there have been re-
peated crosses—for instance, the improved Essex owes its excellence
to repeated crosses with the Neapolitan, together probably with some
infusion of Chinese blood. So with our British sheep; almost all the
races, except the Southdown, have been largely crossed ; ‘this, in fact,
has been the history of our principal breeds.’ To give an example,
the ‘Oxfordshire Downs’ now rank as an established breed. They
were produced about the year 1830 by crossing ‘Hampshire and some
instances Southdown ewes with Cotswold rams ;’ now the Hampshire
ram was itself produced by repeated crosses between the native Hamp-

COCKER’S MANUAL. 27

shire sheep and Southdowns; and the long-wooled Cotswold were
improved by crosses with the Leicester, which latter is again believed
to have been a cross between several long-wooled sheep. Mr. Spoon-
er, after considering the various cases which have been carefully re-
corded, concludes, ‘that from a judicious pairing of cross-bred ani-
mals it is practicable to establish a new breed.’ On the Continent
the history of several crossed races of cattle and other animals, has
been well ascertained. To give one instance: The King of Wurtem-
berg, after twenty-five years’ careful breeding, that is after six or sev-
en generations, made a new breed of cattle from a cross between a
Dutch and Swiss breed, combined with other breeds. The Sebright
bantam, which breeds as true as any other kind of fowl, was formed
about sixty years ago by a complicated cross. Dark Brahmas, which
are believed by some fanciers to constitute species, were undoubtedly
formed in the United States, within a recent period, by a cross be-
tween Chittagongs and Cochins. With plants I believe there is little
doubt that some kinds of turnips, now extensively cultivated, are
crossed races ; and the history of a variety of wheat which was raised
from two very distinct varieties, and which after six years’ culture
presented an even sample, has been recorded on good authority.
“Until quite lately, cautious and experienced breeders, though not
averse to a single infusion of foreign blood, were almost universally
convinced that the attempt to establish a new race, intermediate be-
tween two widely distinct races, was hopeless. ‘They clung with su-
perstitious tenacity to the doctrine of purity of blood, believing it to
be the ark in which alone true safety could be found.’ Nor was this
conviction unreasonable: when two distinct races are crossed, the
offspring of the first generation are generally nearly uniform in char-
acter; but even this sometimes fails to be the case, especially with
crossed dogs and fowls, the young of which from the first are some-.
times much diversified. As cross-bred animals are generally of large
size and vigorous, they have been raised in great numbers for imme-
consumption. But for breeding they are found to be utterly useless;
for though they may be themselves uniform in character, when paired
together they yield during many generations offspring astonishingly
diversified. The breeder is driven to despair, and concludes that he
will never form an intermediate race. But from the cases already
given, and from others which have been recorded, it appears that pa-
a

28 COCKER’S MANUAL.

tience alone is necessary; as Mr. Spooner remarks, ‘nature opposes:
no barrier to successful admixture; in the course of time, by the aid
of selection and careful weeding, it is practicable to establish a new
breed. After six or seven generations the hoped-for-result will in
most cases be obtained ;_ but even thén an occasional reversion, or
failure to keep true, may be expected. The attempt, however, will
assuredly fail if the conditions of life be decidedly unfavorable to the
characters of either parent-breed.

“Tt is scarcely possible to overrate the effects of selection occasion-
ally carried on in various ways and places during thousands of gene-
rations. All that we know, and, in a still stronger degree, all that we
do not know, of the history of the great majority of our breeds, even:
of our more modern breeds, agrees with the view that their production,
through the action of unconscious and methodical selection, has been
almost insensibly slow. When a man attends rather more closely than
is usual to the breeding of his animals, he is almost sure to improve:
them toa slight extent. They are in consequence valued in his im-
mediate neighborhood, and are bred by others; and their character-
istic features, whatever these may be, will then slowly but steadily be
increased, sometimes by methodical and almost always by unconscious
selection. At last astrain, deserving to be called a sub-variety, be-
comes a little more widely known, receives a local name, and spreads.
The spreading will have been extremely slow during ancient and less
civilized times, but now is rapid. By the time that the new breed had
assumed’ a somewhat distinct character, its history, hardly noticed at
the time, will have been completely forgotten; for, as Low remarks,
‘we know how quickly the memory of such events is effaced.’ ”’

BREEDING FOR THE PIT.

We do not find at the present day as much attention paid to breed-
ing Games for the pit as in times gone by, still many old cockers take
as much pains as ever and show just as much care and attention in
breeding as in an earlier day. The best breeders for the pit consider
the cock as ahead of all the qualities, consequently show great care in
selecting thein, as in breeding for this special purpose we must not

anid!

2

Hi

i

BROWN-RED GAMES,

COCKER’S MANUAL. 32

seek color but strength and endurance with all the good fighting qual-
ities. Color, as will be observed, is of secondary importance and
should not be preferred to the essential requisites for the pit. It is
generally considered that a cross fowl is best for this purpose and for
this reason the breed selected to cross with must be equally as good:
and better if possible in their fighting qualities than those possessed
by the breed intended to be crossed. In the selections made it is.
hardly needful to be remarked that great caution should be observed,
for it is frequently the case that some games are good billers but very
poor strikers, and such it is hardly desirable to breed from. A selec-
tion should be made of a well tested cock of a reliable breed, a good
biller and striker, a savage and inveterate fighter, quick in movement
and who shows no quarter to his antagonist. Breeders for the pit
generally allow three hens to a stag and five hens to a cock. Some,
however, prefer only two hens to a cock.

INFLUENCE OF THE SIRE.

It is still an unsettled question as to the length of time it is neces-
sary to keep a hen after a cock has been changed before the eggs can
be set with a certainty of getting chicks sired by the new cock We
have seen statements to the effect that a permanent influence resulted
from copulation in the case of fowls—that absolute purity of blood
could not be depended upon if the hen at any time had run with a
cock of different breed. On the other hand, we find with many a
cominon impression that impregnation takes place but a short time
before the egg is laid. If we wish to be doubly sure we should not
breed from a hen until she had finished laying her litter and wishes
to set, then we would place her with a cock we desired to breed from.
In this way we think we could be more assured that we had the breed
we most desired.

The following was written by a well known western breeder, who
has given the subject much careful attention, and which we consider
worthy of mention : :

‘“A correct answer to this question is important to the breeder of
high-class poultry, to enable him to know when a breeding hen should

32 COCKER’S MANUAL.

be confined or removed from the cock to maintain purity in her pro-
geny; also, what number of eggs, being laid by one hen, are fertile
after the cock has been removed from the yard. I shall not attempt
to answer this question fully, but give such observations as have come
to my notice.

“In examining some of the leading works on poultry, such as
Wright, Tegetmeir, aud others, I find the chapters on eggs, their
formation, etc., do not touch upon the subject, but slip out of it easily,
and fail to give a hint tending to a solution, All the answers I have
ever seen have appeared in periodicals, and were written by breeders
who gave their individual opinions, just as the subscriber is now doing.
Their answers are that the period at which a cock can be removed
from the hen and still have the eggs she may produce fertile at four,
six, eight, ten or more days, and I believe one man had such wonder-
ful hens that the characteristics of a certain cock were seen in their
progeny, although they had been removed from him the year pre-
vious. For fear of contamination, or for effect, some persons adver-
tise that they Leep their various breeds separated the entire year. This
carefulness is well enough, but fully shows the ignorance of the breed-
er, who seeks to make reputation by such proclamations.

‘After the yolk has fully matured, the sac which contains it is de-
tached from the ovary, and passes into the oviduct or egg-passage. It
is in the egg passage, in my opinion, that the eggs becomes fertilized ;
That at different seasons more or less eggs are so maturing in this pas-
sage ; and that all the eggs so maturing, which have not become en-
veloped with the skin which we find next to the shell, are impregnated
if the hen comes in contact with the cock. Hence, as production goes
on faster at one period than at another, it is impossible to fix any given
number of days that one impregnation by the cock may last.

“It is well established that a pure-bred hen may remain with cocks
of other breeds with safety to the purity of her progeny at another
time than during the producing seasons. It is also well established
that her eggs may be fertilized by a cock of any other breed and only
produce cross-bred chicks from a limited number of eggs. Physiolo-
gists maintain that in most breeding females, the first male by which
they are impregnated influences their subsequent progeny, no matter
by what male it may be produced; and that such a female absorbs in-
to her own blood, through the offspring, some of the characteristics of .

COCKER’S MANUAL, 33

the male. In fowls this rule or trait does not seem to obtain, and
may be, perhaps, an indirect evidence that the yolk is vitalized or
impregnated after it has become detached from the ovary.

“Tf this opinion is well founded, then, the exact number of days
which must elapse before preserving eggs for hatching, after the hen
has been placed with her cock, no definite answer can be given, as it
is impossible to know the number of eggs in process of formation in
‘the egg-passage of a living hen, and in all cases, it will be safe to wait
long enough, say two or three weeks, especially so if the eggs are de-
signed for sale.”

Again we notice in the Fancier’s Gazette, London, the following
article upon the subject, which we consider of interest to all breeders:

‘‘Hlow long after the cock’s removal does his productive influences
‘continue to affect the hen is a question more easily asked than satis-
factorily answered. Our forefathers who bred their old fighting
strains with a hundred times more care for the pit than we are wont
to do, for the show pen, contended that a hen was never clean, i. e.,
free from the influence of the cock she first laid to after
moulting until she moulted again. There are others who as positively
affirm that every hen is clean on becoming broody, whilst not a few
assure us that the influence of the cock only extend over the limited
space of three or four days. Are they all right or all wrong? I am
not so egotistical as to say, but would rather, with your permission,
state a few facts which may assist your readers in drawing their own
conclusions.

“Every experienced breeder will have often observed chickens of
one clutch showing the distinctive points of two cocks when it has
happened that two cock birds have been running on the brood walk at
one and the same time, or when a cock of one breed has been substi:
tuted for another during the laying of the hens. For instance, I have
often required a brood cock from the walk for some purpose, say a
full-feather plain head, and have placed with the hens a Tassel or hen
cock, the result is that the laying hens then produce chickens closely
resembling both the plain heads and Tassel, or full-feathered and hen-
feathered cock; but the question is, ‘How Jong is it after the intro-
duction of a fresh cock before this change of parentage takes place ?’
Last autumn a poultry-killing sheep-dog so bit and mutilated a brood
cock—one of the handsomest I ever saw, presented to me by one of the

34 COCKER’S MANUAL,

oldest and best breeders in Cheshire—that I had great difficulty in
keeping him alive. I determined to breed from him this spring not-
withstanding his injury, so I placed six brood hens with him in No-
vember, and not until March, after sitting several nests of eggs by
him without producing a single chick did I become satisfied that he had
totally lost all procreative power, as all the eggs were marked with the
date they were laid and all set. JI found the eggs became prolific on
and after the fifth day from the introduction of another stag and not
before. Again, I had occasion to take a cock from a brood walk
early in the spring. A black hen was then running with a brood of
young chickens, and after leaving them she laid away privately in the
woods, and nine weeks and two days after the cock was taken away she
appeared with a brood of eleven strong chickens. There was no pos-
sibility of her getting with another cock, no other fowl being kept
within a mile of the place. Requiring a few game fowls of a particu-
lar color for'some friends in Australia, I last year placed a gray pullet
with a brown-red cock, both having been carefully bred in-and-in and
to their respective feathers, for many years previous, the produce be-
ing exactly what I required, viz: blotch breasted dark grays with
marigold-shouldered cocks, and a more uniform brood in color, shape
and style it would be difficult to find. Being so successful I this year
placed with the cock three other sisters to the pullet which had never
perviously heard a cock crow. The produce of these bear the closest
resemblance to those hatched last year, but their sister (mother of last
year’s trial brood) has hatched nine chickens, all quite undistinguisha-
ble from true brown red and good brown reds, too. Is this caused
by any latent influence of the brown-red cock from last year? And
will her sisters if left with the same cock until next year produce
brown-reds instead of grays? I have noticed variations of colors caused
by change of constitution, water, soil, and especially by food.
I had a weakness in my boyish days for breeding from any
strange cock I saw distinguish himself in a main, and the
motley colors I often got were a sight to see, even when the hens
happened to match the cock through the hot meals and stimulating
food which the cock had been fed on during his preparation for bat-
tle, but none of these things can have affected the birds in question
in the least, and although I have my own opinion as to the cause, I
shall be glad to have that of some more competent person.’’

COCKER’S MANUAL. 3T

SETTING HENS.

In setting hens only the largest eggs should be selected, and in no
instance should a misformed egg be used for this purpose. The hen
should be set in a clean dry place, so situated that other fowls cannot
disturb her. She should come off regularly for food and water, both
of which there should be a plentiful supply within reach. Thirteen
eggs is the average setting ; frequently more than this number are set,
but the study of the fancier should be rather as to the number of
chicks the hen can cover than the number of eggs. During the time
of setting the eggs should not be molested but nature should be al-
lowed to take its course, The time required for hatching, as a gene-
ral rule, is twenty-one days, but with good and continual setting the
chicks will come out in twenty days. If the eggs used are fresh they
will hatch within a few hours of each other; if not fresh they require
at least twenty-three days and should not be destroyed before the ex-
Piration of that time. Marking the eggs is conducive to convenience
and certainty as it forms the means for knowing whether any have
been laid since the day of setting. It is also well, though not of
course necessary, to mark the day of the month. The state of the
weather should be taken into consideration, as we find that a hen ca-
pable of setting and hatching a certain number of eggs in the warmer
months, cannot give an equal share of heat to more than two-thirds
the number in the early part of the season.

Another consideration worthy of notice is sprinkling the eggs with
water. This process undoubtedly assists the hatching, from the fact
that the chicks receive an increased supply of fresh air, and in the
summer season prevents, to a great extent, the inner membrane of the
egg from becoming hardened and contracted. So in moderately cold
weather, as in the spring of the year, by a careful sprinkling the egg
is in a great measure prevented from chilling. Setting hens occa-
sionally desert their nests. The causes of such desertion are quite
numerous, principal among which could be mentioned the irritating
effect produced by lice. When these are found the eggs should be
carefully removed, the nest’ thoroughly cleaned, and fresh straw
sprinkled with sulphur and ashes placed therein, after which carefully
replace the eggs sprinkled with sulphur. The hen also should be
sprinkled with sulphur, though sparingly. We know of many cases

38 COCKER’S MANUAL.

where this method has been used, and can recommend it as likely to
produce beneficial results.

‘‘When several hens sit nearly at the same time, if any accident
should happen to one of them her eggs may be distributed among
others, provided they had not too many eggs in the first instance.
‘The best time to make such a transfer will be when the hen is off the
nest, lest she be dissatisfied at receiving them.’’

Some cockers raise many objections against setting eggs under
‘dunghill hens; but these objections are really entitled to no weight,
and in fact are only false notions, for such hens are much less inclined
to be quarrelsome and less apt to be disturbed by other hens. It has
been the experience of many breeders that chickens so brought up do
not partake of the qualities of the dunghill, and now it is not unusual
to find cockers wanting two clutches from the same hen, setting the
first under a dunghill and the second under a game hen.

An early writer on this subject has the following: ‘‘The desire to
sit ismade known by a particular sort of clucking, which is continued
until the chickens are full grown; and a feverish state ensues, in which
the natural heat of the hen’s body is very much increased. The in-
clination, or, as physiologists term it, the ‘starge,’ soon becomes a
strong and ungovernable passion. The hen flutters about, hangs her
wings, bristles up her feathers, searches everywhere for eggs to sit up-
en, and if she finds any, whether laid by herself or others, she imme-
diately seats herself upon them. These signs of an inclination to set
ought generally to be indulged in all hens; but those are best adapted
for setting which have rather short legs, a broad body, large wings,
well ‘furnished with feathers, and their nails and spurs not too long
nor sharp. ‘The setting hen will sometimes exhibit impatience at her
close confinement, and want to get fréquently off the nest. When
this is observed, one-half of the food that usually forms her meal
should be withheld, and, when she has had only half her due allow-
ance, replace her on the nest, and hold out to her in the hand some
hemp or millet seed. This second meal has the effect of reconciling
her to sit constantly without deserting her eggs. With the same view
some put food and water so near the nest that the setting hen may
feed without leaving her eggs for any great length of time ; while
others hold that this is not so conducive to health as the more natural
method of letting her come off to enjoy good water and food at some

COCKER’S MANUAL. 39

little distance. Undoubtedly it is important that setting hens should
have a little exercise, as well as that the eggs should be exposed to the
circulation of air, to carry off any stagnant vapor which has been
proved by experiments to be deleterious and destructive to the chicks
still in the egg. We have ourselves remarked that setting hens are as
fond of rubbing themselves in the dust as they are of food and water ;
and we have always indulged them, evidently with benefit, in this habit.
Other hens will sit so closely and long that they are in danger of
starving themselves for want of food. Ofsuch it has been said they
have been known to faint outright, as if dead, and which, when the
chickens were hatched, were so exhausted as scarcely to be able to at-
tend them. It is recommended that such should be fed on the nest.’’

We find in the April number of the Fanciers’ Journal a well written
article upon this subject and of interest to all breeders:

“Burn out every nest-box, new or old, before and after using. The
charred surface will not favor the lodgment of vermin. Fill each
nest-bottom with freshly cut sod slightly hollowed towards the center,
covering with fine straw. Sprinkle nest and hen with carbolic pow-
der. Don’t use too much sulphur; in fact if carbolic powder is ob-
tainable don’t use it at all. Let your hen get accustomed to the nest
before trusting her with the eggs; then give the eggs, fo her, quietly
inserting them under her rather than giving her to the eggs. ‘Make
haste slowly." Don’t give her more than she can cover and care for
well. Mark the eggs with ink, giving kind, if necessary, and date of
sitting, preserving a duplicate record in a book kept for the purpose.
Examine the nest daily. If an eggis broken, or even cracked, re-
move it. Ifthe remaining eggs have any trace of the disaster, clean
them from it by washing thena carefully in tepid water. The contents
of an egg are alive or dead. If alive they must have air. If the pores
or air-ducts of the shell are closed, the contents die of suffocation.
The grave is made and hermetically sealed. It is our plan to moisten
the eggs and nests three times during the last ten days of incubation
when the nest is in a dry, warm situation, and the hen not permitted
the freedom of out-of-doors. We have found it done most easily and
effectually by a fine rose sprinkler, using tepid water. If a chick must
be helped from the shell, give it aid in the form of warmth, and‘
warmth only. Insert the pipped or unpipped egg if you are assured
that it contains life, in warm water, being careful to keep the opening

40 COCKER’S MANUAL.

of the pipped shell above the surface. It is wonderful how quickly
new life will be infused, and the little bird gain strength to help itself.
If in the course of hatching it is necessary to examine the nest and its.
contents, remove the hen, then the contents. Allow the hen to re-
turn to the nest, then give chicks and eggs /o her; she will carefully
tuck them away where they shall not be injured. Mark the chicks
when taken from the nest in a web of the foot either with one of
Scribner’s steel punches, or with a darning needle filled with coarse
twisted silk, leaving the silk in the hole until it is healed. Make
record of the mark and its purpose. Do not teed the chicks for the
first twenty-four hours after hatching, then give hard boiled eggs or
bread and milk.” The best brood of chickens we ever saw were never
fed mixed or ‘artificial’ feed of any kind, but simply broken grains,
coarse corn-meal, oat-meal, and bird seeds. It was an experiment,
and astccess. Exainine each chick’s head for the long lice that are
so often found there. Kerosene oil is an excellent remedy, simply
applying it with the finger, the lice are exposed to view, and they
generally yield to the first application. Give young chicks every care
and attention. Do not let them be stunted by exposure to cold,
dampness, or lack of food. Feed often, but not more at a time than
will be eaten up clean. Rernember that chickens are early asleep and
and early awake, and prepare food for them to find as soon as they
are out in the morning, at daylight, instead of allowing them to chirp
around half-starved for two or three hours. If you can manage to
give them alate evening feed, they will thrive under it. Any one
caring to make the experiment will be astonished at the difference in
the growth of chicks fed early, often, and late, and that regularly, and
those fed, as they too frequently are, without any system—‘when I
happen to think of it’’”’

YOUNG CHICKS.

If possible the feed for the first week should consist of hard boiled
eggs, oat meal, bread crumbs, etc. Where a large number ate raised
this system of feeding would perhaps be attended with too much
trouble and expense ; but even where such is the case efforts should
be made to give them at least two or three feeds as above. Chicks

COCKER’S MANUAL. 4t

under two weeks old should be fed as often as every two hours during
the day, and no more should be given at each feed than they can eat
up clean. They should be kept at a distance from the house to pre-
vent them from drinking muddy or filthy water. Oftimes it will not
do to allow several hens with their chickens to run upon the yard at
the same time on account of their quarrelsome disposition and liabil-
ity to kill each other’s chickens, etc.; and when from any cause they
are confined in coops they should be plentifully supplied with fresh
water and green feed. Green grass chopped fine, lettuce, cabbage,
etc., should be mixed with their food. A little meat two or three
times a week is also good. Wheat screenings are very good for chicks
five or six weeks old. In no case should bread soaked in water be fed
as it soon sours in the stomach, and is productive of disease. A little
camphor put into the drinking water will be found to assist greatly im
keeping the chicks in good health. It is bad policy to allow spring

* chicks to roost before they are three or four months old, as before that
time the tendency is to produce crooked breast bones, so frequently
seen in young fowls.

Respecting the care of chickens Mr. Bement says: ‘‘We are certain
more chickens are destroyed by over feeding than are lost by the want’
of it. We have remarked also that hens which stole their nests gen-
erally hatched all their eggs; and if suffered to seek the food for her
chickens, if the season was somewhat advanced, she would, unless
some casualty occurred, raise the whole brood, while with too much
kindness or officiousness not half would be raised. All watery food,
such as soaked bread or potatoes, should be avoided. If Indian meal
is well boiled and fed not too moist, it will answer a very good pur-
pose, particularly after they are eight or ten days old. Pure water
must be placed near them, either in shallow dishes or bottle fountains,
so that the chickens may drink without getting into the water, which
by wetting their feathers benumbs and injures them. After having
confined them for five or six days in the box, they may be allowed:
the range of the yard if the weather is fair. They should not be let
out of their coops too early in the morning, or while the dew is on
the ground ; far less be suffered to range over the wet grass, which is.
a common and fatal cause of death. Another cause of the utmost
consequence to guard them against is sudden unfavorable changes of
the weather, more particularly if attended with rain. Really all the

4

42 COCKER’S MANUAL.

diseases of gallinaceous fowls arise from cold moisture. At the end
of four weeks, the hen may be allowed to lead her little ones into the
poultry yard, where she will soon wean them and commence laying.
again. The feathering of chickens demands attention inasmuch as
with them it is a most trying time. If chickens feather rapidly when
very young they are always weakly, however healthy in other respects,
from the fact that their food goes to sustain their feathers instead of
their Jodies, and they frequently languish and die from this circum-
stance alone; but if, on the other hand, they feather slowly the food
in early life goes to nourish and sustain their bodies until they become
more vigorous and old enough to sustain the shock of feathering with-
out detriment. Chickens which feather rapidly must be kept perfectly
dry and warm, however strange it may appear, or they will die; while
naked chickens, as they are called, or those which feather at a more
advanced age and very slowly, seldom suffer from the cold from the
fact that their down is very warm and their blood is hotter and cir-
culates more rapidly, as their food principally goes to blood, flesh and
bone, and not to feathers.’’

In closing we will only say, don’t try to raise too many, fora place
that will accommodate a large number when chicks will be found
much too small when grown. Close quarters cause vermin and dis-
ease. We think these instructions and the aid of a little common
sense will insure you success.

RULES FOR FEEDING.

Nearly every old cocker has rules for feeding of his own which he
follows, often producing goed results ; but our object is to give rules
which have been extensively used and which on that account can be
regarded as standard authority, and the following if carefully observed
will result in marked success :

The first thing to be provided is a coop of sufficient size, and suita-
ble for a cock to exercise in. Probably one two and one-half feet
wide, three feet high and three feet deep, with a roost running through
the middle, would be sufficient. Another requisite is a. place with
sufficient light and air. Put up your cocks in the evening two weeks

COCKER’S MANUAL. 43

before they are to fight ; if stags ten days will do. For the first three
or four days let the feed be mush and molasses. If your cocks be very
fat mix a little vinegar with the evening food. After the third day
physic them with one ounce of Epsom salts to three ounces of butter,
mix well together, and at night be sure that they have no food in their
coop. Give each cock a pill the size of a marble. The next day let
them have as much water as they will drink. The first feed after giv-
ing the physic should be mush and milk, one tablespoonful to each
eock, and one feed of the white of hard boiled eggs chopped fine and
mixed with barley. During the last week do not feed any barley but
feed bread and eggs in the morning, and cracked corn and eggs in the
evening. Wash their feet once a day and sponge their heads with
ram reduced with vinegar; equal parts:should be used. Before feed-
‘ing in the morning exercise for a short time, increasing the length of
time each feed. To give them their exercise, toss them on a bag
stuffed with straws or a soft cushion until they become tired. If you
have a very fat cock give him extra exercise and immediately after
sponge and wipe dry; then place him in the coop and do not give
him drink until he has become sufficiently cool. Be careful to exam-
ane each cock before cooping, to see if there are any signs of disease
about him; and if so remove at once. If possible let the drink be
spring water, and that only to be given once a day, at noon; two or
three swallows are sufficient. Jf the cock is very thin in flesh, beat
sp the white of an egg with a little boiled milk, and give two swallows
twice aday. The utmost care must be taken to keep the coops clean.
It is best to remove the straw every morning and put in fresh. Fre-
quent use of the weights is necessary to show the order and condition
of the cocks. Extra fat cocks will require longer exercise and others
proportionately. Ifa fowl is extremely eager to drink, it shows too
much fever; in this case give a little nitre with the water, and the
fever will be reduced in a short time. This should be repeated until
the desire for drink subsides. In no case feed a cock unless his crop
is empty. Large fat cocks can be reduced from eight to fourteen
ounces ; smaller ones from three to eight ounces.

The following is to be found in the Edinburg Encyclopeedia :

“The fowl is supposed to come from his walk in good condition, in
which case he will be too fat for fighting and will have no wind until
he is reduced. To effect this medicine and abstinence from food are

44 COCKER’S MANUAL.

required for seven or eight days before he can be brought to the hit,
at least such. is the regime pursued hy our first feeders and is pretty
generally as follows: His tail and spurs being cut short he is put into.
his pen, and the first day received no food; second, he has his physic,
consisting of cream of tartar or jalap, or both united, in the dose of
about five grains of each; or ifit be a very fat and large fowl, the
dose may be increased to ten grains of cream of tartar. These are
given him mixed in fresh butter; this generally purges briskly and
scours out the intestines. Immediately after the physic is given and
before it affects him he is placed on loose straw or a grass plat with
another cock and allowed to spar with him, the boots or muffles being
previously tied on their short spurs. In this way he is exercised till
he is a little weary; he is then returned to his pen. Before putting
him up it is necessary to examine his mouth to see if he has been
picked or wounded in the inside, as’such wound is apt to canker. To.
prevent this it is washed with a little vinegar and brandy. He is now
allowed his warm nest to work off his physic. This is a diet made of
warm ale or sweet wort, and bread in it, with a little sugar candy, or
bread and milk and sugar candy, a large tea cup full. He is then
shut up close till the next morning, or about twenty-four hours. If
the weather is cold the room should be made warm, or a blanket
placed over the pen; if in warm weather he may be clipped out for
fighting ; but if the weather is cold this should be left till the time of
fighting. The room should be kept dark except at feeding. Early on
the following morning, that is about the third day, his pen must be
cleaned out from the effects of the physic, etc., and clean dry straw
put in; this should be done every day. His feet should be washed
and wiped clean before he is returned to his pen. If his feet feel cold
his pen should be made warmer. He is next to be allowed some
bread; that is, a sort of bread made of, ingredients in the following
proportions: about three pounds of fine flour, two eggs, four whites.
of eggs and a little yeast ; this is kneaded with a sufficiency of water
for a proper consistency, and well baked. Some add, as a great secret,
a small number of annis seeds or a little cinnamon. Of this bread as
much as would fill a tea cup, cut into pieces, is given him twice that
day ; no water is allowed him then, as it is considered highly injuri-
ous at the early part of the feeding. On the fourth day early in the
morning he should receive half a tea cup of good barley and a little

COCKER'S MANUAL. 45

water, in which a toast has been steeped some time. Having eaten
this clean his pen, etc., and let it be uncovered for about an hour
while he scratches and picks the straw Some think it is highly ad-
vantageous to prepare the barley for them by bruising it, and thus take
away the sharp points of the barley and the husky shell or covering
which is blown away. In the afternoon the same quantity of barley
may be repeated, but no water. On the fifth or next day he may have
‘tthe bread as before, but three portions of it and no water. On the
sixth or weighing day very early in the morning give him the bread
as before. He is then to be weighed, and afterwards a good feed of
barley and water should be given. Some hold it a valuable secret to
give them flesh, as sheep’s heart, for this and the succeeding day,
-chopped small and mixed with the other food. On the seventh day
or day before fighting, early in the morning let him have the same
‘feed of barley; in the afternoon bread and the white of an egg boiled
hard and a little water. On the eighth or day of fighting he may have
a little barley, as about forty grains.”’

We give below Stamper’s rpyle (a well-known Southern sportsman,
who, many years ago met with great success through the Southern
States), which was presented to us by F. E. Grist, of Blakely, Georgia,
‘who had a personal acquaintance with him:

+ STAMPER’S RULE.

Ten days before the cock is taken up from his walk to be prepared
‘for battle he should be carefully examined to see that he is a sound
fowl, his feathers should be glossy, hard, and lie close; if you are
fully satisfied from this examination of his soundness you can then
spar him with a cock of his own weight until he becomes wearied ;
should he turn black in the face turn him out, as it will be impossible
to get him right in time for the contest. If he does not show any sign
-of disease, give him a dose of the following physic: Six grains cream
tartar and six grains rhubarb made into pills with unsalted butter or
lard. After giving the physic, flirt him a few times, then give him a
~warm mash of bread steeped in sweetened water or boiled rice and
milk ; leave him for twenty-four hours and this will have acted suffi-
ciently ; he can now be turned out. Give one feed of boiled rice and
milk. For the balance of the ten days feed on such grain as he may

46 COCKER’S MANUAL.

have been accustomed to, giving an occasional feed of raw meat
chopped fine, which will be of great advantage should it agree with
him,

11th. Having been prepared as above suggested, the cock will now
be taken up preparatory to being fed and drilled for the pit. Cut off
his spurs, which should be done with a small saw made for that pur-
pose, leaving about half an inch. Flirt him until he seems tired, then
give him warm sulphur water. Late that evening physic as before
directed, spar him, then give him a mash of barley or oat bread and
milk to work off the physic.

t2th. At twelve o’clock to-day feed boiled rice and milk, late in
the evening flirt him then give warm sulphur water.

#3th. Clean out your coop well, then wash your cock’s mouth, legs
and feet, wipe dry and put him back into the coop. Mis first feed
should be barley or oat meal bread moistened with skimmed milk or
water. Give him three feeds of this, and his drink should be barley
water three times that day. Flirt him.

z4th, Feed oat bread and scalded barley mixed; at twelve o’clock
oat bread and the white of a hard boilea egg; late in the evening ex-
ercise by flirting, feed with scalded barley and corn bread. Give hirm
free-stone water three times for drink.

15th. Feed corn bread and raw beef chopped fine and mixed in the
morning, oat bread and the white of a hard boiled egg at twelve
o’clock, flirt him in the evening for exercise, feed oat bread and
scalded barley ; give barley water cool three times and let him roost
at night.

16th. Feed oat bread and raw beef chopped fine and mixed in the
morning; at twelve o’clock feed with corn bread and the white
of a hard boiled egg. Exercise him in the evening by flirting, and.
feed him oat bread and scalded barley. His drink should be spring
water and milk. Let him roost at night.

17th. Feed corn bread and scalded barley mixed, in the morning ;:
at twelve o’clock feed on oat bread and the white of a hard boiled egg.
In the evening flirt him for exercise, and feed corn bread and scalded.
barley mixed. His drink should be barley water three times. Let
him roost at night.

a

COCKER’S MANUAL. 49

18th. Feed barley bread and the white of a hard boiled egg in the
morning. At twelve o’clock feed corn bread and the white of a hard
boiled egg. Flirt him in the evening and feed on oat tread and
scalded barley. Let him roost at night. ‘

roth. Feed corn bread and scalded barley. At twelve o'clock feed
oat bread and the white of a hard boiled egg. Flirt in the evening,
and turn loose for a few minutes in a room, but not one in which he
cannot get FRESH AIR. Feed corn bread and scalded barley.

zoth. This being the day of battle, give him a light feed of oat
bread early in the morning, and in about one hour a drink of spring
water and milk.

GENERAL REMARKS.

Some cocks will need physic twice when taken up, others only once;
this can only be determined by the feeder. The feeder should be
provided with a good pair of scales that weigh down as low as half aa
ounce, and he can only feed intelligently by their frequent use. Fat
cocks require long sperring or flirting, and when much wearied let
them rest. As long as their appetites are good you need have no fears
of over exercise or over feeding. Let them have what they will eat
at night, keeping their flesh down by exercise ; but should you not be
able to keep them down in flesh feed sparingly with barley bread and
scalded barley. If they should become too much reduced and wanting
in appetite, let them have such food as they are most fond of; a raw
egg or two will probably restore it. When they incline to drink too
muct it is a sign of heat, and sometimes happens at the latter part of
the keep ; then they should have a little sorrel or plantain leaf cut
and mixed with their food. Give them also milk and cool spring
water with a little fine rectified spirits of nitre in.it to drink, which
will cool and moderate their héat. This ought to be repeated until
their thirst or desire for drink subsides. In no instance give a cock
water after being heated by sparring or otherwise. When cocks begin
to purge give them new milk well boiled with barley bread, warm,
and their drink ought to be warm toast and spring water. In giving
cocks drink do not let them have more than four dips at one time,
which ought to be eight and eleven o’clock in the morning and three
o’clock in the evening, and never feed a cock unless his crop is empty.

50 COCKER’S MANUAL.

Give him drink and exercise and it will soon go off. Reducing the
weight of the cock depends entirely on the size and order when they
are put up. Large, fat cocks should lose from ten to sixteen ounces,
a cock in medium order should lose from six to ten ounces, smaller ones.
in proportion. Lean cocks will lose one or two ounces but will nearly
gain it in feeding, and every cock when fought should be rather in
the rise in weight.. If the weather is warm they should be trimmed
the day before the fight, but must be kept warm that night. Be care-
ful and not cut their wings and tail too short.

Care should be taken to keep the cocks clean; shift the straw at:
least once in two days in their coops. Every evening, three days be-
fore the fight, wash the head, legs and feet in chamber lye, -and in
the morning in water not too cold, and wipe dry ; this will heal the
bruises about their heads and the cracks in their toes.

Stags ought to be put the ninth day before they are to fight, and
ought to have but one sparring a@d one purge. They are to be treat-
ed in other respects as an old cock.

Sulphur water is made by a pint of boiling water on half an ounce
of sulphur and pouring off as it cools.

The scalded barley is prepared by pouring on scalding water and
not letting it stand more than ten minutes, then pour it off and spread
the barley on atable to dry. The water that is poured off serves for
their drink, which ought to be made fresh every morning. It is best
weak, a slight taste of the barley being sufficient ; otherwise it is rath-
er heating. In mixing milk and water for their drink, observe not to
put more than one-fourth skimmed milk to three-fourths spring water;
a greater proportion of milk is not so cooling. The different sorts of
bread for feed, such as oat, barley or corn-meal, must be heated and
ought to be baked the day before they are used. They are made ir
the following manner: take equal measure of the white of eggs and
milk, beat well together, then add as much meal as will make up for
bread, which must be well worked up and baked, care being used to
prevent the crust from burning. In no instance must sour milk be
used, for it will cause them to purge, which is very hurtful. When
raw beef is recommended, if it should be found to purge discontinue
its use.

COCKER’S MANUAL. 55
TRIMMING FOWLS FOR THE PIT.

Known among cockers as ‘“‘cutting out,’’ is done by the handler
immediately after weighing and tends to give the cock greater force
and activity in the pit. This practice has been in vogue for years
among handlers, and consists in cutting or trimming the neck and
hackle feathers close from his head to his shoulders and clipping off
ali the feathers from his tail close to his rump. The more scarlet ap-
pears the better state of health he isin. Then take his wings and
extend them ; from the first feather clip the rest sloping, leaving sharp
points, that in rising he may endanger the eyes of his adversary. This
practice, we are glad to say, is not followed as much at present as in
former years, as most fowls are required to be shown in full feather.

RULES FOR LEELING.

Holding the fowl on either side fit the heel tightly to the stub, hav-
ing the point just pass the outside or back of the leg and fasten it
while in that position. Holding onto the leg just heeled, turn the
fow] and proceed to heal the other in the same manner, with the point
occupying a similar position. Fowls heeled in this manner will be
found to do good cutting in the body and neck and frequently will
bring down their opponents with either a broken wing or Jeg. A towl
fighting for the head and neck exclusively require a much closer heel-
ing, to accomplish which, if the heel is to be placed on the right leg,
set it so that the point will be on a line with the center of the slight
hollow perceptible in the upper joint of the right leg. The point of
the heel on the left leg should be placed on a line with the outside of
the upper joint of the left leg.

On this subject Dr. Cooper advises as follows: ‘‘Let your fowl be
held so that the inside of the leg will be perfectly level, then take
your thumb and fore finger and work the back toe of the fowl. While
doing this you will see the leader of the leg rise and fall at the upper
jeint. You will set the right gaft on a line with the outside of the.
leader at the upper joint of the leg, and the left gaft you will set on a
line with the inside of the leader at the upper joint. Be careful not

é

52 COCKER’S MANUAL.

to set the gaft too far in, as it would cause the cock to cut himself.”

The spurs should be sawed off when the cocks are put up for feed-
ing, and should be left with a length sufficient to reach nearly through
the socket of the gaft. Thin paper folded and dampened, or soft
buckskin can be used to fit the spur to the socket of the gaft. The
two methods given above are extensively practiced, and when fol-
lowed cannot lead astray. Yet, perhaps nothing connected with the
handling of birds depends so much upon undivided preference as
heeling ; and nearly all fanciers have original methods for heeling,
and by no means quietly affirm their methods superior to all others
known.

DESCRIPTION OF GAFTS.

For the benefit of those unacquainted with the different styles of
‘Gafts we give illustrations of all the leading kinds now in use. To
the old cocker they would be of little use, but there are many fanciers
who are not acquainted with them who have asked for a more careful
illustration, which we trust we have given.

REGULATION SPUR.

The fairest and best heel in use for all purposes, being nearly
straight and perfectly round from socket to point, with a short round
socket, varying but little from the Singleton, which is also very much
in use and a favorite with many.

- , e
COCKER’S MANUAL. 53

SINGLETON SPUR.

The Singleton Spur is now extensively used by heelers. The sock-
et is light, short and round, with the spur nearly straight, running
from the lower part. This is considered one of the fairest heels in
use, is highly finished, finely tempered, not easily broken, and can be

obtained of any desired length.

CINCINNATI HEEL,

The Cincinnati Heel differs from the Singleton heel in many par-
ticulars. The socket is heavy, long and deep, with the spur curved
upward from the bottom of the socket. This spur is deservedly a
favorite among all heelers, and cannot be barred from any pit, being.
perfectly round, like the Singleton spur, from socket to point.

54 COCKER’S MANUAL.

THIMBLE HEEL.

The Thimble Heel is extensively used, and many of the advanta-
ges claimed for it are possessed by no other spur. The socket is
thimble-shaped, with no opening at the end, constituting the only
essential difference from other heels. It is claimed that by filling up
the socket the heel is removed farther from the leg, giving the fowl
greater purchase.

FULL DROP SOCKET. °

Full Drop Socket Heel was a favorite among heelers of an early
day. As will be noticed the blade comes directly from the back and
lower part of the socket, and dropping almost throws the spur even
with the foot. Leather is frequently placed on the under part of the
socket to make the drop greater.

COCKER'S MANUAL, 55

HALF DROP SOCKET.

The Half Drop Socket differs from the Full Drop in having the
blade come directly from the front part of the socket with a less long
and deep drop. Drop sockets can be obtained of any desired length.
The revised rules of the pit however declare drop socket heels unfair,
and consequently if used a special agreement will be necessary.

REMARKS ON THE FOWL.

HEELING, HANDLING, ETC.

No general rule can be laid down for handling, yet a few special
semarks concerning the qualifications of handlers and what they ob-
serve may be made. The handler never should allow himself to be-
come excited by the remarks or actions of the opposite pitter, who
will undoubtedly seek to get him confused, but remaining perfectly
cool should give an undivided attention to his bird during the count.
In handling do not allow your opponent to over-bill for the purpose
of fatigueing your bird. If it becomes necessary to give either cock
the wing it should be done in a gentle manner and not with force
sufficient to throw him upon his feet. If one cock becomes fast in the
other, the pitter should at once advance and see to the drawing of the
heels. Immediately after the fight see to the weighing of the birds.
Handlers should be men capable of maintaining the utmost composure,
endowed with quick perception and thoroughly conversant with the

gules of the pit. They should strive for every advantage possible

56 COCKER’S MANUAL.

within the rules. A good handler is a man of many resources, Nu-
merous fights have been won more by the handling than by the heel-
ing or the fighting qualities of the birds.

As regards heeling we remark that many fowls are clos hitters,
while others are wide. The latter should be heeled more closely, in
this respect differing greatly from the manner of heeling close hitting’
birds, with whom the greater caution is to be observed to prevent
them from cutting themselves. Every heeler should be thoroughly
acquainted with his fowls before he attempts to hee! them. The ama-
teur after heeling should try the cock, and following this practice will
Jearn the proper way of setting the heels.

Never pit a fowl that is sick or out of condition, for no matter how
good a heeler you have you can hardly be successful; in fact, condi-
tion is everything, as otherwise the fowl will lack wind, muscle, will
be weak, and his style of fighting will not be determined but extreme-
ly feeble. The fowl that is in the best condition invariably wins the
battle, although through chance his opponent will get in a blow that
will disable him. It has been our experience that condition and style
of handling is of greater importance than the heeling, for if in poor
condition the fowl can hardly use the heels to advantage.

The pit should be either sixteen or eighteen feet in diameter, and
can be made with either six or eight corners, or if preferred can be
of circular form. It should be from sixteen to twenty-four inches in
height in order to prevent the cock from breaking his heels should he
while fighting force his opponent too near the side of the pit. It
should be lined with some cheap material, dark color preferable, with
a stuffing of either cut hay or straw, making a soft cushion the entire:
distance around it. In all regular pits the bottom is covered with
carpet or other suitable material, a mark being made as near the cen-
ter as possible ; two other marks are drawn one foot each way from
the center,

COCKER’S MANUAL. SP

RULES OF THE PIT.

NEW YORK RULES,

ARTICLE 1.—The pit shall be a circular pit, at least twelve feet 1%
djameter and not less than sixteen inches in height, the floor of which»
shall be covered with carpet or some other suitable material. There:
shall be a chalk or other mark made as near as can be to the center of”
the pit. There shall also be two outer marks which shall be one foot
each way from the center mark.

Arr. 2.—The pitters shall each choose one judge who shall choose:
areferee. Said judge shall decide all matters in dispute during the
pendency of the fight; but in case of their inability to agree then it:
shall be the duty of the referee to decide, and his decision shall be
final.

ART. 3.—Chickens shall take their age from the first day of March,.
and shall be chickens during the following fighting season, to-wit =
From the first day of March to the first day of June the following year.

Arr, 4.—It shall be deemed foul for either of the respective pitterss
to pit a bird with what is termed a foul hackle; that is, any of the-
feathers left whole on the mane or neck.

ART. 5.—No person shall be permitted to handle his fowl after he-
is fairly delivered in the pit unless he counts ten, clear and distinct,,
without either fowl making fight, or shall be fast in his adversary, ox-
fast in the carpet, or hung in the web of the pit or in himself.

Art. 6.—Any fowl that may get on his back the pitter thereof shal
turn him off it, but not take him off the ground he is lying on.

Art. 7.—-Whenever a fowl is ‘fast in his adversary, the pitter of the:
fowl the spurs are fast in shall draw them out, but the pitter of a fow %
has no right to draw oct his own spur, except when fast in himself, or
in the carpet, or in the web of the pit.

Art, 8.—When either pitter shall have counted ten tens successivel y>
without the fowl refusing fight, making fight, again breasting thems
fair on their feet, breast to breast and beak to beak on the center scoré:
or mark, on the fifth ten being told, and also on the ninth ten beings

5

58 . COCKER’S MANUAL.

told, shall have won the fight. _ The pitters are bound to tell each ten
as they count them, as follows: once, twice, etc.

Art. 9.—No pitter, after the fowls have been delivered in the pit,
shall be permitted to clean their beaks or eyes by blowing or other-
wise, or of squeezing his fowl, or pressing him against the floor during
the pendency of a fight.

Art. 10.—When a fowl is pounded and no person takes it until the
pitter counts twenty twice and calls three times “‘Who takes it?’’ and
no person does take it, it is a battle to the fowl the odds are on; but
the pitter of the pounded fowl kas the right to have the pound put up,
that is, twenty dollars against one , should not this be complied with,
then the pitter shall go on as though there was no poundage.

Art. 11.—If a fowl is pounded and the poundage taken, and if the
bird the odds are laid against should get up and knock down his ad-
versary, then if the other bird is pounded and the poundage not taken
before the pitter counts twenty twice and calls out ‘‘Who takes it?’’
three times, he wins, although there was a poundage before.

Arr, 12.—It shall be the duty of the respective pitters to deliver
their fowls fair on their feet on the outer mark or score, facing each
other, and in a standing position, except on the fifth ten being told,
and alse on the ninth ten being told, when they shall be placed on
the center score, breast to breast and beak to beak, in like
manner. Any pitter being guilty of shoving his bird across the score,
or of pinching him, or using any other unfair means for the purpose
ef making his bird fight, shall lose the fight.

Arr. 13.—If both birds fight together, and then if both should
refuse until they are counted out. in such case a fresh one is to be
hoveled and brought into the pit and the pitters are to toss for which
bird is to set to first; he that wins has the choice; then the one which
is to set to last is to be taken up but not carried out of the pit. The
hoveled bird is then to be put down to the other and let fight, while
the judges, or one of them, shall count twenty, and the other in like
manner; and if one fights and the other refuses it is a battle to the
fighting bird; but if both fight or both refuse it is a drawn battle.

N. B.—This rule is rarely carried into effect, but any pitter can ex-
act it if he thinks proper to do so.

é ‘i ’
COCKER’S MANUAL. 59

Arr. 14.—If both birds refuse fighting until four, five or more or
less tens are counted, the pitters shall continue their count until one
has refused ten times ; for when a pitter begins to count he counts for
both.

Arr. 15.—If a bird should die before they are counted out, if he
fights last he wins the battle; This, however is not to apply when his
adversary is running away.

Arr. 16.—The crowing, or raising of the hackle of a bird is not

fight, nor is fighting at the pitter’s hands.

ArT. 17.—A breaking fowl is a fighting one, but breaking from his
adversary is not fight.

Art. 18.—If any dispute arises between the pitters on the result of
the fight, the birds are not to be taken out of the pit, nor the gafts
taken off, until it is decitled by the judges or referee.

ART. 19.—Each fowl within two ounces of each other shall be a
match; except blinkers when fighting against two-eyed birds, an
allowance of from three to five ounces shall be made; when blinkers
are matched against each other the same rule to apply as te two-eyed
contestants.

ArT 20.—Any person fighting a bird heavier than he is represented
on the match list shall lose the fight, although he may have won.

Arr. 21.—In all cases of appeal fighting ceases until the judges or
the referee give their decision, which shall be final and strictly to the
question before them.

Arr. 22,—When a bet is made it cannot be declared off unless by
‘consent of both parties, all outside bets to go according to the main
bet.

Arr. 23.—Each pitter when delivering his fowl on the score shall
take his hands off him as quickly as possible.

ART. 24.—Any person violating any of the above rules shall i
deemed to have lost the match.

PHILADELPHIA RULES.

ARTICLE 1.—The pit must be a%ground floor, unless otherwise
agreed to.

Art, 2.—The cock or stag must be weighed enclosed in a small bag,
and then two ounces deducted for the weight of the bag and feathers.

60 COCKER’S MANUAL.

A stag fighting a cock has an allowance of four ounces in weight, 2
blinker cock fighting a two-eyed one has four ounces ; a blinker cock
and a stag of one weight are a match. fi

Arr. 3 —The cocks being weighed and matched, you will cut shen
t; you must cut the hackle with all the shiners off; you can use
your own pleasure about cutting out other parts of your cock.

ArT. 4.—Your cock now being cut out you will heel him; you can
heel him with paper and water and nothing but that; if you do yow
will lose the battle if the opposite party finds it out.

ArT. 5.—Your cock being heeled, you will bring him in the pit for
battle ; you will bill the cocks one minute, and then. ‘put them down
behind your scores for their battle.

Art. 6.—In fighting a battle, according to Philadelphia Rules, when
you deliver your cock on his score, you must stand back of him and
not lean over him to hide him from the other cock.

ART. 7.—A cock breaking with another cock is fight, and a cock

picking at any time when on the ground is fight; but picking while
in your hands is-not fight; he maust make fight after you deliver him
out of your hands,
* Apt, 8.—When the cocks are fast, you must handle by my drawing.
your spur out of my cock and you drawing my spus out of your cock,
you then have thirty seconds to nurse your cock; the judge will call
‘down cocks ;’’ then you must strictly obey and put your cock down
to renew the battle. In case one of the cocks gets disabled, you can
count him out; you can lay yout cock down on his wing on his score,
and count ten without the other cock making fight; you can handle
him again, andso on until you count five tens; then you can get
ready to breast your cocks; you must put them down on their feet
and breast to breast, and if the crippled cock refuses to fight while the
opposite handler counts twenty more, he has lost the battle.

ART. 9.— You are not bound to lay your cock on his wing, you can
use your pleasure whether to lay him on his wing or on his feet; if it
is to your advantage for your cock to fight, put him down on his feet
and let him fight.

Art. 10.—In counting a cock out, after you breast the cocks and
you are counting twenty, if the cock should get in the disabled cock,
you dare not put your hand on them unless the disabled cock makes

SUINVD GTd Cau

,

COCKER’S MANUAL. 63

fight; and if he does make fight, you can handle, and by his making
fight it will renew all the counting from the first, and if the disabled
cock should make fight last it is his count.

Art. 11.—The judges cut the heels off, and if all is right you must
get teady for the next battle; you,are allowed twenty minutes to be
in the pit with the next cock. The judges-are to keep the time.

Art. 12.—All outside bets go as the main stakes.

Arr. 13.—Any man not paying bets that he lost will not be allowed
in any pit in Philadelphia hereafter.

WESTERN RULES.

Rute 1.—All birds shall be weighed, give or take two ounees, shall
be a match or otherwise if parties see fit to make it so.

RULE 2.—All heels to be fought with shall round from socket to
point, or as near so as can be made.

RULE 3.—When a stag is matched against a cock, the stag will be
entitled to four ounces advance in weight.

RuLeE 4.—It shall be fair for handlers to pull feathers and sling blood,
er any other thing to help the bird between handlings.

RuLeE 5.—It shall be foul for A or B to touch their birds while fight-
ing unless one is fast to the other, but if a bird should unfortunately
fasten himself with his own heel it shall be fair to handle, but on no
other consideration, and either handler violating or deviating from
the above rules shall lose his fight.

Rute 6.—Thirty seconds shall be allowed between each and every
round.

Rute 7.—In counting, the bird showing fight last shall be entitled
to the count, but if his handler refuse to take the count the opposite
handler shall be entitled to it.

Rue 8.—The handler having the count shall pit his bird in his
respective place when time is called, and count ten, then handle three
more successive times; when time is called again, the birds shall be
placed in the center of the pit, breast to breast, and forty more count-
ed, and if the bird not having the count refuse to fight, the one hav-
ing it shall be the winner.

64 COCKER’S MANUAL.

RuLe 9.—A peck or blow at the opponent’s bird, and not at hi
thandler, will be considered fighting.

RULE 10,—When time is called the handlers must let go their birds
from their respective places fair and square, for it shall be foul for
‘either handler to pitch or toss his bird upon his opponent’s, and
veither one violating the above rule shall lose his fight.

Rute 11.—Each party shall choose a judge, and the judges chcose
-a disinterested party as referee. No referee will be competent vho
hhas bet on either side, or is otherwise interested.

Rue 15.—-It shall be the duty of the judges and referee to witch
all movements of the fights and judge according to the above rules.
The referee will be confined to the opinions of the judges only, and
‘his decision final. '

RULE 13.—It shall be the duty of the referee to keep time between
sthe rounds and notify the handlers to get ready at twenty-five seconds,
-then call time at thirty seconds, when the handlers must be prompt in

spitting their birds; and if either handler refuse to do so, he shall lose
whe fight.

SOUTHERN RULES.

ARTICLE 1.—When the cocks are in the pit the judges are to ex-
amine whether they are fairly trimmed and have fair heels. If all be
cight and fair the pitters are to deliver their cocks six feet apart (or
thereabouts) and retire a step or two back; but if a wrong cock should
Tse produced the party so offending forfeits that battle.

Arr. 2,—All heels that are round from the socket to the point are
:allowed to be fair; any pitter bringing a cock into the pit with any
<other kind of heels, except by particular agreement, forfeits the battle.

ARY. 3.—If either cock should be trimmed with aclose, unfair back,
whe judge shall direct the cther to be cut in the same manner, and at
wthe time shall observe to the pitter that if he brings another cock in

the like situation unless he shall have been previously trimmed, he
shall forfeit the battle.

ART. 4.—A pitter when he delivers his cock shall retire two paces
‘back, and not advance or walk around his cock until a blow has~
massed.

COCKER’S MANUAL. 65

Art. 5.—An interval of -- minutes shall be allowed between the
termination of one battle and the commencement of another.

Art. 6.—No pitter shall pull a feather out of a cock’s mouth or
from over his eyes or head, or pluck him by the breast to make him
fight, wr punch him for the like purpose, under penalty of forfeiting
the battle.

Arr. 7.—The pitters are to give the cocks room to fight, and are
not to hover and press on them so as to retard their striking.

Art. 8.—The greasing, peppering, muffing, and sooping a cock, or
any other external application, are unfair practices, and by no means.
admissible in this amusument.

ART. 9.—The jndges, when required, may suffer a pitter to call in
some of his friends to assist in catching the cock, who are to retire
immediately when the cock is caught, and in no other instance is the
judge to suffer the pit to be broken.

ART. 10.—All cocks on their backs are to be immediately turned
over on their bellies by their respective pitters at all times.

Art, 11.—A cock when down is to have a wing given him if he
needs it, unless his adversary is on it, but his pitter is to place the
wing gently in its proper position, and not to lift the cock; and no
wing is to be given unless absolutely necessary.

Art. 12.—If either cock should be hanged in bimself, in the pit, or
canvas, he is to be loosed by his pitter; but if in his adversary, both
both pitters are to immediately lay hold of their respective cocks, and
the pitter whose cock is hung shall hold him steady while the adverse
draws out the heel, and then they shall take their cocks asunder a
sufficient distance for them fairly to renew the combat.

ArT. 13.—Should the cocks separate and the judges be unable to
decide which fought last, he shall at his discretion direct the pitters
to carry their cocks to the middle of the pit and deliver them back to
back, unless either of them is blind; in that ease they are to be
shouldered, that is, delivered with their breasts touching, each pitter
taking care to deliver his cock at this, as well as at all times with one
hand.

ART. 14.—When both cocks cease fighting it is then in the power
of the pitter of the last fighting cock, unless they touch each other, to
demand a count of the judges, who shall count forty deliberately,

66 COCKER’S MANUAL. —

which, when counted out, is not to be counted again during the battle.
Then the pitters shall catch their cocks and carry them to the middle
of the pit and deliver them beak to beak; but to be shouldered if
either are blind as before. Then if either cock refuses or neglects to
fight the judge shall count ten, and shall direct the pitters to bring
their cocks again to the middle of the pit and pit as before; and if
the same cock in like manner refuses, he shall count ten again and call
out “twice refused,,’’ and so proceed until one cock thus refuses six
times successively. The judge shall then determine the battle against
such cock.

ART. 15.—If either cock dies before the judge can finish the count-
ing of the law, the battle is to be given to the living cock, and if both
die the longest liver wins the battle.

Art, 16.--The pitters are not to touch their cocks whilst the judge
is in the act of counting.

Art. 17.-—No pitter is ever to lay hold of his adversary’s cock, un-
less to draw out the heel, and then he must take him below the knee.
Then there shall be no second delivery, that is, after he is once de-
livered he shall not be touched until a blow is struck, unless ordered

Art. 18.—No pitter shall touch his cock unless at the time men-
tioned in the foregoing rules.

Arr. 19.—If any pitter acts contrary to these rules the judge, if
ealled upon at the time, shall give the battle against him.

ENGLISH RULES.

1. That every person show and put his cock into the pit with a
fair hackle, not t»0 near shorn, or out, nor with any other fraud.

2. That every cock fight as he is first shown in the pit, without
shearing or cutting any feathers afterwards, except with the consent
ef both the masters of the match.

F When both cocks are set down to fight, and one of them runs
away before they have struck three mouthing blows, it is adjudged no
battle to the persons who bet. :

4. No persons to set-to but those who are appointed by the masters
ef the match.

ee eS et Ly Ee,

ae eae settee = 3/2

eee

COCKER’S MANUAL. 69

5. When acock shall come setting-to, and both cocks refuse to
fight ten times successively according to the law, then a fresh cock
shall be hoveled, and the masters of the match must agree which of
them shall turn the cock down ; after that, if both fight, or both re-
fuse, to be deemed a drawn battle ; but if one should fight, and the
other refuse, the battle to be allowed won by the fighting cock.

6. After the person appointed by the masters to tell the law shall
have told twice twenty, the cocks to be set-to, beak to beak if they
both see, but if either be blind, then the blind cock to touch; and on
their refusing to fight, the person appointed as before is to tell ten
between each setting-to, till one of the cocks has refused to fight ten
times successively.

7. When ten pounds toa crown are laid on the battle, and not
taken, after twice twenty is told, the battle is determined as won by
that cock the odds are on.

8. That no person shall make any cavil or speech about matching
of cocks, either to matchers or owners, after the cocks are once put
together.

9. A master of a match has a right to remove any person out of the
lower ring.

ro. No person can make a confirmed bet void without mutual
consent.

11. Bets to be paid on clear proof by creditable witnesses, even
though they have not been demanded immediately after the battle is
over.

12. It is recommended that all disputes be finally determined by
the masters of the match, and two other gentlemen whom they shall
appoint ; and in case the four cannot agree, then they shall fix on a
fifth, whose determination shall be final.

vic) COCKER’S MANUAL.

ENGLISH NOTES ON COCKS AND COCKERS.

The following brief notes on the past and present cocks, cockers
and cocking in England were furnished at the request of the author
by J. Harris, who has been enthusiastically devoted to the sod from a
child, and who has not merely had a local experience of a few birds
and men, but has assisted and also fought many of the best cockers all
over the kingdom :

The origin of the game cock is enveloped in considerable obscurity,
for whilst many naturalists affirm that it is the reclaimed wild jungle
fowl, as still found in India, many others who have given the subject
much careful consideration and research are of an opinion that our
game fowls were originally from Persia, where they deem it probable
that a race of white-legged birds were very early reclaimed, but whose
originals, like many wild animals, have long since become extinct,
and their sporting history dawns in this country of Persia and the
early records of China, although most books, etc., point us to Themis-
tacles as the first cocker known to fame, who, some authorities state,
received an omen of the success of the army he was leading from the
crowing of the cocks, but Aolieu, the author cited, says he saw the
cocks fighting: Yet Idomeusus long before that time bore on his
shield the effigies of a cock as a martial bird. History informs us
that they were bred for fighting in the reign of Crcesus, king of Lydia
(A. M. 3426). The ancient Dordanii had representations of cock-
fighting on their coins. The fighting cock was one of the principal
gods of the Lyrians, and the learned Hebrew, Dr. Rahbi David, in-
terpreting the 17th chapter of 2nd Kings, verses 30 and 31, says
“‘Nergel’’ was a cock for war or fighting, or champion cock, and by
the Samaritans worshipped for a god.

A volume might be written on this subject of interest to the anti-
quarian, but enough has been said to satisfy the sportsman that this
sport will bear favorable comparison with any other in point of an-
tiquity. Its introduction into England has been attributed to the
Romans who, history informs us, were called on to witness cocking in

* their own country in order to incite them to deeds of bravery and
courage, previous to their departure to conquer our tight little isle,

COCKER’S MANUAL. 71

but from a fair translation of Julius Ceesar’s words, the natives reared
fowls for pleasure and diversion, although it was unlawful to eat them.
It requires no great stretch of imagination to suppose that the spert
was practiced here previous to the Romish invasion, It is true early
English history is very reticent on cocking, as well as many more im-
portant matters, and but little information can be gleaned from that
source, until the 12th century, when it was so common as to be prac-
ticed in schools, as we find it has continued to be up to almost the
present time. As recently as 1868 Mr. L. G. Fitch, one of the assist-
ant school inquiring commissioners, called attention to the fact that
the almost cbsolete custom of cock fighting is at this moment a pre-
text for charging a guinea to the head master and a half guinea to the
usher from each scholar at the Ledburgh school in order to provide
cocks at Shrovetide for the entertainment of the boys and their
parents, adding that the boys have ceased to require any sport from
their masters as an equivalent, and that at other free schools a similar
rule prevails. ‘This gratuity has from time immemorial been knowa
as the cock-penny, but in many schools and countries the penny has
been transformed into a more valuable coin, as at Ledburgh, or in the
statistical account of Scotland (Vol. 3 Edinburgh, 1792), the school-
master at Appleross, in county Ross, is mentioned as having, amongst
other perquisites, the cock-fght dues, equal to one-quarter pay-
ment to each schclar. Welsh princes sometimes made presents of
game cocks to the English princes and nobility and which were much
valued, aud within the present century a single county in Wales has
publicly challenged all England to fight an annual main for five suc-
cessive years for a large sum. I have seen a great many mains fought
in Wales and very few plain cocks, a bad one never.

Early in the r4th century cocking became a royal amusement, and
was carried on to that extent that it had to be introduced in the royal
household. In the accounts of Henry the VII. is found the following
entry: ‘‘March znd, 7th Henry; item to Master Bray for rewards toe
them that brought cocks to Westminster at Shrovetide, twenty-five
shillings. In the early part of the 16th century a royal pit was added
to the palace at Whitehall for the more magnificent exhibition of the
sport. Although prohibited by Henry the VIII., as well as by that
prince of hypocrites, Oliver Cromwell, a fac simile of whose seal and
-prohibition I now have before me. Cocking as well as all other sports

72 COCKER’S MANUAL.

was much patronized in the days of glorious Queen Bess, who ruled
too wisely and generously to interfere with the sports of her loyal
subjects. James I. was so fond of the sport that he publicly attended
it twice a week, and Charles II. was a great patron of the sod, and
introduced the Pyles (so-called) from the very distinctive colors of
white and red, and derived from ancient English game of Cross &
Pyle. At this time so enamored of the sport were the people that
cocks were very frequently fought in the public streets of London,
notwithstanding there were in London several cock-pits beside the
royal pit. In after times when the latter was taken down, another
bearing the same designation was immediately erected by subscription
in Tufton street. Derby Lane theatre was originally a cock-pit, and
many provincials were under the patronage of their respective corpo-
rations. The Canterbury corporation pit was an apartment of a splen-.
did gateway that formed part of St. Augustine Monastery, and some
of the old rules and regulations that we have seen for the government
of those pits prove that amateurs of those days had to conduct them-
selves with all the gravity of deportment and language becoming a
church congregation of our own time as no loud talking, swearing or
unseemly behavior was ever allowed in those places. This would form
a striking contrast to the excitement, roars, shrieks, offers to take or
lay the odds consequent on the springing from the setter’s hand; of a
pair of rasping Cornish hen cocks amidst a perfect Babel of tongues
indescribable ; or yet to the motley sroups Hogarth so cleverly de-
picted on canvas in the royal pit at Newmarket, and on whom that
rare cock-feeder, Nan Rawlings a/#as Duchess of Deptford is looking
down so complaisantly and whose characters I would like to portray
if space permitted.

Old Frampton was generally acknowledged to be the father of the
sod. He was more fond of racing than hunting, and infinitely pre-
ferred cocking to either. He was hatched and a very promising chick
in the reign of Charles I.; was doubtless a fine crowing stag when
Charles II. Pyles were fighting, and was placed in a fine walk by
William III as keeper of the running horses to his majesty, a part he
retained under Queen Ann, George I. and George II. He died
in March, 1727, aged 86. From some original letters of his still ex-
tant, he not only appeared to have been conversant with many of the
modern tricks of cocking, but also to some extent with the method of

COCKER’S MANUAL. 73

feeding. Cocks were then matched by the length and girth, by the
eye and gaip, and not by weight as at present. But he was chiefly
noted for breeding a strain of cocks that eclipsed the royal Pyles, and
his old Sourface strains were unquestionably the best birds at that
time. In color they were known to old cockers as Smittenwing Reds,
being either streaky or spotted-breasted reds with dull yellow wings
and sometimes saddle also, and white legs. These in turn succumbed
to the old Vannihall yellow or orange-breasted grays, on which the
popular ditty was written, with the refrain of

My bonny uray’ cock”

Conv Mrcuet fof the Bone mnished gold,

And your wings a silvery gray. 7

These got whipped by the renowned in-and-in-bred Mealy Grays of
Hugo Maynell’s and Sir Charles Sedley’s, which beat everything that
could be pitted against them until crossed after the decease cf their
masters ; even the killing Smocks and light Pyles of the Warburtons,
Raylences, Molyneaxs and Egertons, whose heels were wont to bring
down death as suddenly as an electric shock, could not live a battle
through with them; and only when those black-legged warriors of
Maynell & Sedley were opposed to each other did either find their
equal, and amateurs witnessed the hardest, cleverest fighting to be
seen in England, and by this same system of in-and-in breeding May-
nall produced the most perfect pack of fox hounds the world had ever
seen, and a keener sportsman all around, never existed. When Sed-
ley’s cocks were opposed to his, vast sums of money were invariably
staked on the result, as both their cocks and feeders were on a par.
The Earl of Mexborough’s beautiful and true feathered grays, with

pearl eyes, yellow legs and beaks, looked as handsome and ornamental
on their walks when leading forth the half dozen spotless clear white
hackle, gray-bodied hens that formed their harem, as they proved
dangerous in the pit. There is an old painting of a favorite cock and
two hens lying before me as I write this, and look so like life as fairly
to threaten to fly out of the canvas—a straw-colored hackle, rich, deep
red saddle, up and spread game-like black tail, bright yellow lees and
beak, and elegant carriage form a grand contrast to the heavy, dull, ©
inactive, droop-tail, spiritless, so-called game Duckwings we now see
in the show-pen at poultry seus In chickenhood, full feath-

74 COCKER’S MANUAL.

ered, and when cut out for the pit those birds so closely resemble each
other in shape and feather as do wild ducks. The last of the breed
was a few years since in possession of a noted feeder who was always
wont to swear by them. He left three hens with a gentleman he was
in the habit of feeding an annual county main for, and at the decease
of the feeder the writer was requested to take the office, and after win-
ning a closely contested main was asked to state his charges, which
were expenses and one of those same hens, and since then she has
never hatched anything but gray chickens, although she has been
mated with a black, brass-back, and a black-red as well as a gray cock.
It is said the celebrated Mr. Nunis (or butcher) grays were of this
strain, one of which after winning in eleven mains had thirty-six sons
fought in a main at the royal pit and only four of them were whipped ;
so much for blood. A portrait of this bird with particulars was pub-
lished at the time. Halford’s yellow-legged light reds and Elwess’ red
duns, one of which fought twenty-seven battles, were equally famous,
and one of Sir Francis Boynton’s won the same number of battles and,
was known as the Yorkshire herd. Col. Millish, who the late Duke
of Wellington declared was the best aids-de-camp that ever crossed a
horse, also bred a wonderful strain of cocks which he backed for fabu-
lous sums. The Dean of York strain and Sir Henry Goodrich’s were
general favorites with the dark reds of Mr. Green; but all these could
scarcely equal the Tassels of John Weightman, known as the Park
House Reds. Weightman fought and beat the Lancashire men at
Burton with these cocks for the largest amount ever fought for, not-
withstanding it is stated in Rural Sports that the main for £1,000 a
battle and £5,000 the odd, which was won by Gilner at Lincoln, were
the largest stakes. I have just seen one (if not the very last) of the
pure-bred Parkhouses on a brood walk where he has got fine chickens
this season although he is from twelve to twenty years old, and is a
real good type of the breed, having a long narrow tassel, short taper
head, very strong boxing beak, prominent, quick, fearless red eye,
long, strong, thick neck, short, broad, flat body, white, clean, blood-
like feet and legs, dark, shady breast, light red, with the brightest and
glossiest plumage.

The Strokshire Reds and Duns have proved more than a match gen-
erally for the very best cocks that could be pitted against them, and
the fighting qualities of the Cheshire Piles are proverbial and unsur-

COCKER’S MANUAL. 15

passed. They have been kept pure and clean from any cross for a
number of years by the proudest families of the country, and Mr.
Rilands who bred them for a great number of years was so careful on
this point that he scrupulously kept the light and dark varieties apart.
Mr. Walker also bred and fought against many of them, and all have
found when crossed even with Beverly and other noted Piles, leaving
out other colors that have invariably been a falling off of their first
and grand requisite, the ‘‘bloody heel,’’ which has rendered them so
notorious. The celebrated Mr. Hetchley, who bred some of the best
birds in England upwards of half a century after, tried to cross them
but could never reproduce their equals.

The black cocks of Stafford, Lord Veres, were much sought after
and were very successful for many years, and so enamored was the
noted Nathaniel Monk of them that after seeing a week’s main at
Boston he fell asleep during service at church on-the following Sunday
and startled the minister and congregation alike by peering over the
pew with half awakened eyes and shouting at the top of his voice,
“T’ll have the black cock for a crown!’’ The Derbyshire striped
hackle, dark reds of Mr. Saut, and the Norfolk spangles of Mr. Gurney
could always find backers in any company which the Smocks or white
cocks of Zealhampton, in Devon, were for a long time annually pitted -
against the Cornish light reds of Couth. The latter were only an off-
shoot of the Earl of Derbys, and Mr. Taylor’s strains which were one
and the same family. Couth kept those birds carefully bred and were
very successful for upwards of forty years, when he crossed them to
gain bone. With larger bone they were just as umsuccesstul as they
had been successful, when he put an old hen of a pure strain, although
thirteen years old, with her brother, and the produce brought him
back his former successors.

The Earl of Derby strain had been bred at Knowsley a long time
previous to the Earl’s appearing on the sod. Many cockers objected
to their dun eyes. Busley was his lordship’s first feeder. On his de-
cease Potter took the office, and was followed by Potter, Jr. But their
opponent in feeding, Joseph Gillien, was always too much for either
had they not been better cocks. But for a great number of years his
lordship’s breeder, Roscoe, senior and junior, placed out to walk up-
wards of 3,000 cock chickens annually, and from this number it was
easy to pick mains of cocks faultless in shape and perfect in constitu-

76 COCKER’S MANUAL.

tion. They were chiefly black-breasted reds, with white legs and a
white streamer in tail and flight feathers, although he latterly fought
some of a slashing gray strain, and he never bred a finer cock than the
Pile of the old Cheshire strain which Pollard printed for him and en-
graved in 1826, and the Earl’s last mains were fought some six or
eight years afterwards. Potter always considered his own red duns as
superior to his lordship’s birds.

Dr. Bellyse, the best judge of a horse, greyhound and cock Eng-
land ever produced, first bred the Piles of his own country, but soon
got an idea that even with their matchless heels their constitutions.
were not equal to the punishing preparation of modern feeding, so
took to breeding the old dark-red strain, so successfully fought by
Gillier, of Warwickshire, as well. He also bred largely from the
noted Westgorth cock, and his crow alleys became so much sought
after that he was offered fifty guineas for a sitting hen by a visiting
nobleman. On handing him the hen there and then and crushing the
eggs with his foot, his lordship remarked that he had purchased the
eggs as well in the price. “‘‘No, or I should have refused a thousand,”’
was the reply. He seldom walked out more than a thousand chickens.
a year, but the quality was so superior that at two years old he could
always select enough from them to defy all England. Six pullets to
their own father, or mother and two or three sisters to her own son
was his favorite plan, and he always persisted that he could never
breed them too closely. Philips fed a great many mains for him, but
whoever fed had to supply them with fresh sod and gravel every third
- day. Ralph Benson of Stropshire, and Walker of his own county,
usually fought him the closest, but beating him was fairly out of the
question. There was a suggestion made to one of the sporting peri-
odicals that as no one else had a chance in fighting him that the Earl
of Derby should fight him a grand main to prove whether the Doctor
was really invincible, as his friends supposed him. But the Earl’s.
party had too much judgment to avail themselves of the beating that
would have been in store for them. His birds were never better than
at the time of his decease, and although he lived the allotted space of
three score years and ten, age never quenched his love of the sod. If
any man ever bred a superior strain of cocks to his it could only have
been the late Mr. Clark, of Taunhall, better known as Vaunhall Clark
and his phenomenon, that won the Westminster gold cup, besides

COCKER’S MANUAL, 19

several other mains, was allowed by good judges to be the most clever
and terrific fighter ever seen in a pit, often taking his cock and flying
screaming across the pit with him, dropping him as dead as a knocker
with kicking enough to kill a dozen. But in whatever company his
cocks fell it was a foregone conclusion that considerable more than
half their opponents would never fight again. Indeed whole mains
have been fought against them without scoring a single battle. Sam
Chifney, the famous racing jockey, had some of the breed, but he
crossed them and so spoiled them. It would be very easy to mention
scores of other noted strains that have fought their way into notoriety,
as Dr. Waiys, of Leicester, thc Cumberland Muffs, Isle of Wight Yel-
lows, the Devonshire Tassels, and Cornish Hennies, but we have
already far exceeded our space, and will just state the colors most
valued in the pit in its palmy days of half a century since. Not that ,
we are color fanciers. A good cock cannot be a bad color, yet no
one will deny but that a set of full brothers of similar shape, feather,
constitution and fighting qualities are much more desirable in a main
than birds bred without any rule or uniformity whatever. Some will
be good, some bad, and some indifferent. The principal colors of
birds used for the pit were as follows: 1, black-breasted dark reds; 2
brown-breasted light reds; 3, black-breasted birchen Duckwings ; 4
brown-breasted berry birchens; 5, Piles; 6, black-breasted silver
grays; 7, smock or shaded-breasted mealy grays; 8, black- breasted
dark gray; 9, ginger-breasted reds; ro, blacks; 11, brass-backs; 12,
spangles; 13, smocks or whites; 14, duns, and although some were
esteemed more than others in different localities, their merits were
pretty generally accepted in the order named. The first named is the
old true BlackRed of the cock pit, for a description of which we ac-
cept the best known and acknowledged authority in England, who has
bred and fought more cocks for upwards of fifty years than any other
man, is that the bird in question should be a clear, vivid red extend-
ing from the hackle to the extremities ; the red upon the hackle above
and black beneath; the upper converse side of the wing equally red
and black, even though surrounding the posterior; the whole of the
tail feathers, the tips of the wings, the breast, beak and legs, black.
The hen, dark partridge color, with bright red hackle above and black
beneath, clean brick-breasted and such to the posterior, with black
beak and legs. Ifa Black Red has any other color than black and red

80 COCKER’S MANUAL.

he is not a’true Black Red. The brown at tip of wings of any black-
breasted Red is not at all admissible. In a true Black Red, or prop-
erly dark-breasted Black Red, who has a crow wing, point black and
brown, and a Black Red could have no other colored breast or he
would not be Black Red, the breast being always named in match
bills.

We have not space to enter on breeding more than this. If you
have a real good sort be careful not to spoil them by crossing, and a
very old cocker has said a failure needs no cross but total eradication,
and I would add, the best way to perpetuate any grand qualities is to
breed those that have those qualities in the greatest perfection, and if
those should be of the same family, which is not likely to be the case,
provided they are in perfect health and vigor and are the best you
- know, then by all means breed from the best, although they should
be brother and sister. I am aware many will object to this as ridicu-
lous, but here is a fact, that all the crack breeds in England have been
so bred that scarcely a breeder in England has become celebrated for
a strain of cocks that has not adopted this in-and-in system. How
often have we known two of the very best strains that could be put
together get very indifferent produce, and it holds good with animals
as well. Mr. Balkwell bred his cattle on the same principle, as well
as other celebrated breeders of sheep, pigs and dogs, and the best
horses we have ever had on the turf are proved by pedigrees to have
been bred in the same manner. One thing never lose sight of, and
that is, that the brood cock has that first and greatest requisite, heel,
for it is that which wins and without which all other fine qualities are
useless.

Of feeding I shall say still less). Every feeder thinks his own system
best, and has some infallible secret which is jealously kept, and I have
some half dazen recipes by me now which have been obtained at fab-
ulous prices from some of our most celebrated feeders by gentlemen
of fortune, and there is scarcely one I entirely agree with. Infallible
recipes are mostly infallible nonsense, and some that are published in
recent works on game fowls in America would insure death in
England if followed. ‘There is a vast difference in the constitution of
cocks, climate, seasons of the year, fighting in steel and silver, which
the best recipes never allow for. I have seen strange things given
fowls, and I have never yet seen condition forced into a pen of cocks,

COCKER’S MANUAL. 81

but I have seen it forced out considerably. When a cock is properly
wound up for a battle he should neither be overloaded with flesh, dis-
tressed with physic, or wearied with sparring; should be full of fire
and vigor, yet fight cool and collected, for a cock rendered hot and
mad with unnatural treatment has little chance with the cool, hard-
hitting cock in condition. Centuries of careful observation has result-
ed in giving that condition to the game cock surpassing all animals.
Even our severest contested races fail to put condition to the test so
much as the game cock in the long battle.

Spurs have been made of very different shapes and material, but
Clay’s silver spurs are more valued than any other. They are now
become very scarce, and there is but one maker in London, although
Cockspur street was so named from the trade being carried on there.
Men are still living who recollect Mr. Vincent keeping several men
' constantly at work making. Smith was the next best maker and suc-
ceeded Clay. Gatesfield was a reliable maker, as was also Toulman of
the Dial and Crown stand. We found a beautiful box of the latter
make at a gentleman’s house the day after Doncaster won the last
derby. A few cocks were on the walks, and after dinner it was pro-
posed to have a battle or two, but we had no spurs. One of the do-
mestics said there was a box in the library, and produeed a splendid
box that appeared not to have been once used since fresh from the
maker’s hand, say fifty years before, and on the inside of the lid was
coupled with the maker’s address the following lines:

“As curious artists different skill disclose,

The various weapons different temper shows:
Now curving point too soft a temper bear,
And now too nard, their brittleness declare;
Now on the plain the treacherous weapons lie,
Now winged in air the shivered fragments fly;
Surprise, chagrin, the incautious feeders gaze,
And Smith alone in genius artists praise.”’

Toulman refers to his method of making, being the same as the
noted Smith. Green made some very strong spurs and good turns,
but were often heavy and always yellow, very different from the silver-
like spurs of Clay and Smith. A well turned out pair of silver spurs
were worth three guineas, and no mains of any importance were ever
fought except in silver. An old friend of the writer, Mr. Faultless, of
London, gave ten guineas for a recipe supposed to be two hundred
years old for mixing the alloys, making, etc., and his assistant the
late W. Chalden, of Sussex, made some nice turned spurs but they

82 COCKER’S MANUAL.

would never stand, and as he never knew how to mix the alloys prop-
erly, and as Faultless obtained his recipe under secrecy he would not
divulge it to him. Their sort of spurs was made of steel and washed
over with silver to pass for silver spurs. They often broke, and Mr.
Bald Houghton once lost a main to Lord Derby by the spar breaking
in the last battle. The very best maker of this class of spurs was Sin-
gleton, of Ireland. These can be made very good at present in
England, although no cocker would trust the best silversmith in Lon-
don to make a pair of silver spurs and fight a battle for money in
them. Steel spurs were made very good in Ireland by Singleton and
others, but the largest quantities were made in Sheffield, and generally
were very reliable; although the best maker of steel spurs was a
resident of Exeter in Devonshire, who has been dead some thirty
years ; his name was John Wattling, and at present his spurs are much
sought after, and half a dozen pairs of any other make can be gotten
for a pair of his, for in addition to their being a very killing spur,
no cock can either break or bend them, although they are so light and
‘elegantly made.

Main bags were made of different colored silk velvet embroidered
in gold and silver lace, were used to carry the birds into the pit, and
this alone was often worth the entrance fee.

There was a difference in mains, but a long main and those gene-
rally fought was that each county and party should show and weigh
sixty-one or more or less cocks between three pounds six ounces and
four pounds eight ounces three days before fighting, and as many as
fell within wne ounce of each other had to fight in the main which
began with the lightest pair of cocks on the third day after, and the
battles were as equally divided as could be into five or six single or
double day’s play—a double day being when five or seven battles
were fought in the first ingo, or before dinner, and the second ingo
of the same number who were fought in the afternoon. But at race
naains single day’s play or ingo in the morning only were fought, the
afternoon being devoted to racing. When the cocks were weighed
the colors and marks were most carefully and accurately taken by both
parties in order that the birds might not be changed. All birds not
falling in one ounce but falling within two ounces of each other were
fought by battles for ten, twenty or forty pounds a side. Three
pounds six ounces and four pounds eight ounces were the regular fixed

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COCKER’S MANUAL.

weights of the royal pit, Westminster; all above that weight went for
byes, and none less were allowed. The lightest birds commenced
fighting and proceeded up. When the birds were brought into the
pit they were carefully examined to see that they answered the de-
scription on the match bill, and if correct the birds were handed the
setters to fight, except in the first battle of the main, when it is usual
for the masters of the match, i. e., the backers or principal owners of
the cocks, to toss the first pair upon the mat or rod. In this case no
cocks are weighed after the weighing day, it being left to the feeders
to weigh the birds as light as they can, and to raise them as high on
the fighting day three days after. Eight days is the usual time for
feeding, but the heavy or last cocks fighting in the long main of six
days are in fourteen days, and there have been mains fought for a
longer time, for a fortnight, in the north, many years since, and
which after all ended in a drawn main, and some twenty years since
a week’s fighting took place at Easter, in the Gallogate pit, where six
feeders sat upwards of two hundred and seventy cocks on the mat
ranging in weight from three pounds four ounces to five pounds two
ounces, and a notice was at the time hung up in the pit that the cocks
for the 6th of May main were to come in on the 26th of April and
weigh on the 3d of May, and of another main to weigh off scales on
the 13th. So it will be seen there was not much lack of sport at that
time. Printed lists of the numbers, colors, weights, feeders’ names,
and winners were at that time published, to be sent to those parties
who had cocks there but could not themselves attend on account of
business or distance. Many of those lists are now before meas I write,
especially one of the mains I have just referred to, Prailey commenc-
ing with a winning three pound four ounce furness cock named
Mungo, and losing the last battle of the main with a five pound two
ounce cock named Waterloo.

Short mains are when parties each find twenty-one cocks, more or
less, between a stipulated weight. Each supplies a list of the weights
of their cocks to a referee, who compares them and matches all that
fall within one ounce under four pounds eight ounces and within two
ounces of those above four pounds eight ounces but under five pounds
four or eight ounces to fight for the stakes previously agreed upon.
The cocks are weighed in the pit, oue ounce being allowed for spurs,

86 COCKER’S MANUAL.

and any cock excluding one-fourth ounce of the weight he was
matched for loses the battle.

A set weight main is one where each party names the weight of
eleven cocks, more or less between certain specified weights, and his
opponent must find cocks to match them. They then toss for choice
of weight for odd battle which the loser must match, and they usually
meet and fight fourteen or twenty days after choosing weights.

A Welch main is sixteen cocks under a certain weight are weighed,
and the lightest pair matched to fight, and so upwards until eight bat-
tles are fought. The eight winners are matched and make four
battles, and the four winners make two battles, and the two winners
fight for the purse cup or stakes.

A main Royal is when any number of cocks under a certain weight
are thrown on the sod together, and the last cock fighting takes the
stakes. This, according to the Rev. Dr. Robert Wild, the historian,
poet, wit, divine and cocker, is of Dutch origin. The Doctor, al-
though a minister, was an enthusiastic cocker, and wrote the best poem
on the subject in the English language. At one time he and another
preached probationary sermons for the rectorship of Aynho, in North-
amptonshire, and a friend some time after asked him which had re-
ceived the living, he replied, ‘‘We divided it ; I took the ayes and my
rival the nays.”’

There is sometimes fought what is termed a shake-bag or turn-out
main. Each party get a specified number of the largest cocks they
can and proceed to fight them without weighing’ Indeed, weighing
cocks at all is of comarpative modern date, as cocks were formerly
matched by length, girth, strength, etc.

Setting is the most difficult art in the whole routine of cocking.
Hundreds think they can set a cock when they know no more of the
art than a cock knows of his father. An old author has said, ‘‘A set-
ter should have a ladie’s hand, a hawk’s eye, a fox’s head and a lion’s
heart.’? A cock should be handled as tenderly as if he were foam, or
some equally as perishable matter. Yet how often do we see men
roughly handle cocks in distress. He should not only be quick to
see any hurt to his own bird but to his opponent’s, and thus reckon
where to force the fighting or slacken it. A cool, calculating head is
indispensable. From thirty to sixty guineas were formerly paid to
some of our cock-setters for a good main, and Stradling, Gladdish,

COCKER’S MANUAL. 87

Fisher, Eaton, Overton and Lun were thought highly of in this ca-
pacity by those great patrons of the sod, Lord Lonsdale, Wexborough,
Hamilton, Northumberland, Warburton, Halton, Wharton, Bullock,
Halford, etc., as were the feeders Brombey, Lister, Watling, Lauley,
etc. I thought to have given something more than the mere names
of those past celebrities, but space will not permit, and I would just
remark that Owen Prolyn was generally supposed to equal any man
that ever entered a pit. Porter, too, was very clever, whilst at the
Royal pit Dick Fleming was always supposed to be several battles
ahead in the long main of any setter ever entering there, and. the old
chant, ‘I’ve seen Dick Fleming handle cocks,’’ is still remembered
by many a sexagenarian. His father was a great feeder and a rival of
the celebrated Nash, and both young Nash and Fleming were no mere
adepts at that art. But in this line none could be found to equal
Joseph Gilliner, publicly pronounced to be the greatest feeder that
ever lived. But all these, along with their opponents, Potter Weight-
man, Philips, Woodcock, and a host of others have many years since
passed away, and were succeeded by Bailey, Brough, Parker, Morton,
Bootal, Jones, Gillham, Davis, Faultless, Calicott and others.

For some time past the police have been constantly on the alert to
stop all fighting in England, so that it has to be carried on in private.
The Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals hound them on, and
many good men amongst them think cocking a most cruel sport,
whilst they are practicing much worse cruelties every day. All of
Nature’s laws are cruel, from the spider that ensnares the fly to the
hawk that pounces on the bird, but vain man would be wiser than his
maker, and it is one of the wise laws of the Creator that this battle of
life should be carried on, we will suppose a cock in his native wilds is
armed with spurs more fatal than even with steel, for with them two
strong combatants die, whilst with the steel one would probably come
off scathless. I would ask, what are those spurs provided by nature
for? When the old cock becomes infirm he is engaged by a younger
and more lusty rival and soon falls a victim; and well it is so, as he
is thus saves from decrepitude, hunger and a lingering death, while
his younger rival’s progeny keeps up nature’s standard of excellence,
and it is no more cruel to, look at two fowls that are only following
their own natural instincts and inclinations and in which they cannot
be forced than it would be were they to fight in their natural wild

88 COCKER’S MANUAL.

habitation. There is a vast deal of difference between this natural in-
clination and gratification and the cruel back-door work of staking,
baiting and ill-using creatures, entirely under our own control, and
tried in the balance of reason. I am sure cocking is the least cruel of
all sports, but I am passionately fond of fishing, lauded as one of the
most innocent amusements without considering the pain inflicted on
live baits—worms, frogs, etc.—on barbed hooks, and the play-
ing and torturing the fish into weakness to enable me to land
it. I have never got over the pang given the beautiful trout when
drawing the hook from its throat and gills. The same with shooting.
How many maimed, injured birds escape the gunner to die a lingering
death from hunger, mortification and dreadful wounds. The
glorious chase and the exciting race-course are not without their
drawbacks.

All countries have merged from a state of barbarism to a state of
civilization, thence to a state of luxury, and then certain and mere
effeminacy, and there is at present an amount of mock humanitarian-
ism, dandyism and effeminacy disgraceful to the name of Englishman.
Even the sports of our fathers are denounced as horrible, coarse, vulgar,
whilst the amusements of those condemning them are profligate and
effeminate to the last degree. I accompanied a Cheshire county
squire to the opera the night succeeding the last Derby, and a more
philanthropic, kinder-hearted man does not exist, notwithstanding he
had attended the Derby, seen a few cocks fight, and is never so happy
as when following his hounds. After looking at the half nude crea-
tures that came on the stage for a short time, he turned, thoughtfully,
and leaving, said: ‘‘This, John, is a most miserable sight with all its
glare and glitter ;’’ and this is one of England’s fashionable amuse-
ments, and from the pale, sickly youth that frequent those places we
are to draw those who will uphold England’s glory to a certain extent.
In country places magistrates, police, etc., keep down the rustic
amusements of young John Bull. The wrestleing ring, cudgeling,
stage, boxing, etc., must give place to tea fights, croquet, etc., till
England gets in danger, then put a red coat on his back, clap him on
the shoulder and say, ‘‘you’re a fine soldier,’’ but not of that dare-
devil ilk that Wellington had in the peninsular wars.

A great change has and is still taking place in Englishmen. Some
men feelingly but proudly recollect a vessel named the Birkenhead,

COCKER’S MANUAL. 89

full of Englishmen, and amongst them many enthusiasts of sports.
The vessel was found to be in a sinking state. The men were drawn
upon deck by the officers, and calmly met their fate as only English-
men and the bravest of the brave could do. A few months since a
vessel was run into full of Englishmen, and the fright and disorder
was a strange contrast between the panic-stricken passengers of the
Northfleet and the cool bravery of the Birkenhead. That the sports
of a country has much influence on a people is abundantly proved in
the history of Rome, Greece, etc. However some may contend to
the contrary, and if the following lines contain any truth, cocking
should take a much higher stand:

And some more martial are,

But cocking fits a man for peace or war;

It makes men bold and forward for the held,
And learns them there rather to die than yield.
Cocking does also constancy create,

And arms a man to wrestle with his fate.

Be it more happy or severe, his mind

Is still the same to a brave end inclined,

A PLEA FOR THE PIT.

AN ENGLISHMAN’S ARGUMENT IN FAVOR OF COCK-FIGHTING.

The Hon. Admiral Rous sends a letter to the London Times, from
which the following extract is made: A motion in the House of
Commons to increase the punishment to Her Majesty’s subjects who
indulge in the most ancient and royal amusement of cock-fighting in-
duces me to trespass on your columns. It has been argued that it isa
wise policy to forbid this sport, owing to its cruelty: On this princi-
ple, why not make pigeon-shooting illegal when fat Herods, standing
over the traps, slay the innocents? Why not legislate against hunting,
coursing, fishing? In the latter amusement, what can be more brutal
than impaling worms on hooks or trolling with live bait to catch pike?
Playing with a fine salmon on your hook is a pleasant pastime,
although the victim differs in opinion. Neither is there much to be
said in favor of grand éattwes, where hundreds of birds and ground
game escape mutilated to live a miserable life or to be eaten by rats.

|

go COCKER’S MANUAL.

All these amusements must of necessity’be cruel, but they are sanc-
tioned by the upper classes, and the cruelty is ignored. With respect
to the champions of the cock-pit, is it a greater boon for a cock to be
well fed and reared to fight a battle, if victorious to be petted for the
remainder of his life, with half a dozen little hens for his comfort, or
to cut his throat early in life to satisfy the appetite of a carnivorous
man.

It must be clear to every man that in this country there is one law
for the rich and another for the poor. The snob sticks to the former,
but the thoroughbred gentleman stands by the poor man. In ancient
times the gamecock was considered an emblem of divinity by the
Synans and Greeks. When Themistocles besieged Dalmatia, he com-

-manded that two cocks should be fought in the open view of his army,
and exorted them to behave as these stout-hearted creatures fought.
Pomponius Mela, the historian, asserted that the Roman empire did
not begin to decline until cocking had fallen into disrepute among its
governors. He proves that Serverus was not able to conquer Britain
until he had rendered his principal officers passionately emulous of
glory by exhibiting a main of cocks every day before them. The
soothsayers warned Mark Anthony to take heed of Cesar, because his
cocks were always beaten by him. The great Gustavus told the King
of Denmark he had no cause to fear the Imperialists, since they had
given up cocking and were devoted to drinking and dancing. Chris-
tian, king of Denmark, said: ‘‘Were Ito lead an army against the
great infidel of Constantinople I would choose none but cockers for
my commanders, and none but lovers of the sport for my soldiers.’’
Our Henry VIII. built a stately pit in Whitehall, where he often dis-
ported himself among his most noble and loving subjects. The dying
speech of Sir T. Urquhart, who was wounded at the battle of Naseby,
was: ‘‘My king and a good cock I have ever loved, and like a good
cock in my sovereign’s service I gladly now expire.’’ A Mr. Wilson,
in the last century, advised all men who take delight in this pleasant
and delicious pastime never to forsake or alienate themselves from it,
so long as it shall please the Almighty to bless and prosper them ; and
he adds that we are bound to encourage cock-fighting among ourselves
and discourage it among all foreign nations. If cocking, which for-
merly was a great sport with the great nobles of this kingdom, be now
asin, Iam an old and hardened sinner. In 1827, in command of

COCKER’S MANUAL. gt

the Rainbow, I brought ten English-bred cocks from Sydney to Ma~
lacca, and fought ten battles with a Chinese merchant who had
defeated all the Malays. We won every battle, and I would go two
hundred miles to see a main between the Cheshire Piles and the Lan-
cashire black-breasted Reds, if there was no legal prohibition. Any
amusement which creates alliances and augments friendly acquaintance
adds to the strength of the empire, for united we stand; and the
monotony of human life is relieved by every salutary diversion.

DESCRIPTION OF GAMES.

Owing to the numerous breeds, strains and crosses of the Game
Fowl it would be quite impossible to notice all of them, therefore if we
fail to mention any well known variety we would not be understood
as Considering them unworthy of notice.

EARL DERBYS.

This breed of games, for many years noted in England for their
courage and almost universal success in battle, is esteemed by all
cockers and fanciers throughout the land. It is generally understood
that by skillful breeding and crossing this breed was kept in all its
purity for over a hundred years. Many stories are written concerning
their history, and many disputes concerning their importation to this
country. Upon this subject we have the following, written by one. of
the oldest and most reliable cockers in England, who has fought many
battles against the Derby fowl, and he says: ‘‘Many believe that
Derby’s fowls were the most successful fighters in England. Although
he was the most extensive breeder, walking annually from three to
five thousand cocks, he could from this number select many good ones,
but many breeders who never bred so largely but bred more good
ones were equally successful in their mains. But from so many it is
an easy matter to pick mains of cocks faultless in shape and perfect in
condition. His chief success was mostly to be found in numbers
rather than in excellence, as for years Potter had a pick of three thou-
sand two-year-old cocks, and even in that great choice of the Earl’s

92 COCKER’S MANUAL.

cocks he many a time found that old Joe, with Mr. Leigh’s birds, car-
ried off the cash and had won the majority of the battles at the end of
the week’s fighting. It was once proposed to match a great main of
those cocks, ten years before the Earl gave it up, against Bllyse, at
Chester, but the Earl and his friends would never risk the beating
that was pretty sure to be given them, as it had for a number of years.

EARL DERBY GAME.

to all comers, both from England and Ireland, including the noted
birds of Benson, Walker, etc. In fact, when or wherever Bllyse
fought he proved invincible. Philips cheerfully fed for him, and he
seldom put out more than one thousand chickens a year, or only one-
third the number of the Earl. Clark’s birds generally made short
work of all that came against them, and when pitted against the
Derbys it was always two to one on Clark. Again, many who ought

COCKER’S MANUAL. 93

to know assert that a pure Derby cock was never sent to America. You
might as well have asked the Earl for a church living as one of his
brood stock ; it would have been the least favor of the two. Some
twenty years since we applied to Old Roscoe (who had charge of the
cocks as his father had before him) for some of the breed, being some
eighteen years after the Earl had fought his last main, and all that
Roscoe could then find of the pure breed was some half dozen, and
he was most anxious to get them for us as we were an intimate friend
of his. I am aware this assertion will not be credited with you, but I
would take long odds that one-half dozen real Derby’s were never
sent to America, if it could be proved, but those that know best in
this country will quite endorse my opinion. Scores of half-breeds
that answer to feather, marking, size, etc., have been sent there as
Derbys, as well as hundreds that have been sold and are kept here as
such. It has been proven that the white-legged black-reds were bred
in this country hundreds of years before the Earl was born; therefore
their origin cannot be claimed to have originated with him as he only
kept a variety of them. His fowls were chiefly black-breasted reds,
white legs and a white streamer in the tail and flight feathers, although
at a late day he fought a strain of gray cocks, which were extra good
ones.

SEFTONS.

This is also another breed of English fowls, but have long been
known in this country. They were never so noted as the Derbys and
never, as claimed by some, the principal contestants of the Earl’s
fowls. The originals generally bred ginger-reds with green and yel-
low legs, and are of good size, well shaped and strongly built, with
large bone and muscle, and are still a much coveted fowl in certain
‘quarters, and are sought after by many cockers who have been for-
tunate with them.

IRISH DARE-DEVILS.

.This is one of the largest and best of the Irish varieties. They are,
in our opinion, the best class of fowls ever imported for general use.
In color a black-breasted red with yellow legs and red eyes. The
hens are buff, with yellow legs. This breed has made its mark, are
good fighters and dead game. ‘They are greatly in demand, owing to

94 COCKER’S MANUAL.

their beautiful plumage and hard, rapid style of fighting. The cocks
run in weight from five to seven pounds, and very frequently have
proved winners against strong odds. The hens are good size, good
layers, and take great interest in their young.

HEATHWOODS.

A noted strain of games named in honor of Thomas Heathwood, a
celebrated cocker and breeder. They breed various colors, weigh
from four and a half to six pounds, and are bred for the pit
only. For many years they were the principal winners in many of
the large mains fought in our eastern cities, and were so highly prized
that extravagant prices were asked and paid, but they now have be-
come more numerous and can be found on many a fancier’s and cock-
er’s yard. They are remarkably quick fighters, fighting with force
and vigor, stand up well, and are liberally possessed of bone and
muscle.

RED HORSE.

A fowl long known to old Southern cockers, breed black-brown
and ginger-reds, with dark legs, and are considered one of the best of
the Southern varieties. They have long been fought in the principal
mains in Maryland and Virginia, and no pains have been spared te.
make them reliable. They are strong, fast fighters, and invariably
force the fighting, are quick in their movements, and are an excellent
fowl for yard or pit purposes. In certain sections they have many
admirers who breed them largely for pit purposes. The hens are of a
dark brown color with dark hackle and dark legs, are compactly made
and of good size.

COUNTERFEITS.

A fowl much thought of at the present time, with a handsome plu-
mage and courageous disposition, are a desperate fighting bird, quick
in motion, good size, rather low on legs, long wings, good bones, fine
eye, in color either brown or ginger-red, with dark legs, are a very
hardy fowl and keep as free from disease as any on our yard. The
Counterfeit strain of fowls took its origin from a black-red rose-comb-
cock weighing five pounds and six ounces. This cock was a very

COCKER’S MANUAL. 95

beautiful and well-made bird, and a most extraordinary, desperate and
rapid fighter. It was these latter qualities which produced the coin-
cidence and drew forth the remark which gave to this cock the name
Counterfeit. Some twenty years or more ago, a main of cocks was
fought at Gavanstown, Baltimore county, Maryland. One of the
battles of the main was between a very celebrated black-white speckled
cock, called the Class-Leader, and the then obscure black-red cock
whose progeny afterwards became so celebrated. ‘The two cocks
came together, and at first, it was said, the Class-Leader had the ad-
vantage and struck his antagonist so hard he was crazed. He quickly
recovered, however, and attacked the Class-Leader with such fierceness
that he soon killed him. The extraordinary fighting qualities dis-
played by the winning cock led one of the old cockers present to
believe him to be his own, and he exclaimed, aloud, in the pit:
“Ah! Skipper, that’s my cock; that’s the one you ought to have sent
me, for mine was a d—d counterfeit !’’ This occasioned great laughter,
and the little black-red rose-comb cock was forthwith named Coun-
terfeit. After the battle he was taken to a gentleman named Goss,
who used him for a breeder, and this originated the Counterfeit strain.
He was, also, the winner of several subsequent battles, and was finally
conquered by a War Eagle cock. The original Counterfeit cock was
bred by Billy Hoffman, of Carroll county, Maryland, and was from a
strain known as the old Charley Martin cocks.

RED QUILLS.

This strain has an extensive reputation in Virginia and in a few
other Southern States, while in others they are comparatively unknown.
We have bred them for a few seasons, and consider them one of the
best for pit purposes. They have a handsome plumage andi lofty car-
riage. The cock has a small round head, neck full and well hackled,
breast full and strong, tail long and well sickled, wings long and low
on the shank, legs either yellow or green, and vary in size from four
and one-half to five and one-half pounds. They have unflinching
gameness, and will soon earn an extensive reputation throughout the

West.
CLAIBORNES.

This is a noted breed of fowl, taking their name from the gentleman
who bred and fought them for a number of years in the Southern

96 COCKER’S MANUAL.

States. They are supposed to be a cross between a good English and
Spanish breed, resembling both breeds in many particulars. The cock
has a small round head, with neck full and well hackled, black breast,
full and strong, tail full and well sickled, wings long and low on the
shank, legs either clear white or yellow. The cocks vary in size from
four to five and one-half pounds. They are sometimes described as
having a small tassel, but we have bred and seen them bred for a num-
ber of years, and as yet have failed to perceive the slightest tassel.
Perhaps in crossing them formerly with other approved breeds, to
increase and keep up their size and strength, they may have lost some
of their original peculiarities. They have long been known in the
the Northern and Southern States, and will stand all the changes of
our northern climate,

THE TARTAR FOWL.

This strain had an extensive reputation, at one time being consid-
ered the best for breeding and pit purposes. Dr. Cooper prizes this
breed highly and still continues to breed them in such a manner as to
preserve all the general fighting qualities. We obtained the breed
some years since from him, and have bred them as large as eight
pounds ; their average weight is from five to seven pounds. They can
be used successfully for producing any desired cross. They breed
black and brown reds with black and green legs. We also find them
sometimes breeding a blue-red. The cock stands up well, has a large,
full breast, large, heavy limb, long claws, and large red eyes. The
many battles recorded show plainly that too much praise cannot be
given for their unflinching gameness and quick, savage manner of
fighting. They have an extensive reputation and can now be found
in the hands of nearly every fancier and cocker.

JACK McCLELLANS.

This breed of fowls perhaps is little known in the Western States,
but stand high in Virginia and Pennsylvania. They originated with
John McClellan, of Gettysburg, Pa., one of the most successful cock-
ers in the country. The cock is strongly built, with fine, well set
neck, head rather large, bones strong, thoroughly game, and will

COCKER’S MANUAL. 97

show fight under all circumstances. We have bred them for many
seasons, our original stock consisting of an eight-pound dark-gray
cock and two dark-brown hens, nearly black, with copper hackles and
green legs. Our stock now shows reds, both black and brown, grays,
and occasionally a spangle. Their weight varies from four and a half
‘to six and a half pounds. They are hard strikers, tolerable fast fight-
ers, and for shake- bags or cross breeding cannot be excelled.

DUSTY MILLERS.

This breed of fowls are well remembered by old cockers, and have
long maintained a high reputation in Kentucky. The stock is highly
valued, but difficult to procure, and of late has met with great favor in
Ohio and Virginia. The cocks are terrific fighters and sure to win if
equally matched. They breed reds, blue-reds, and occasionally grays,
from which they take their name. The legs of the reds are white; of
the blue-reds, yellow; of the grays, green. The cocks are well sta-
tioned, strong and long winded, varying in weight from four and a
half to six and a half pounds, are full breasted, full hackled, with
extremely long wings nearly meeting at the points. We have bred
them for some time and deem them most valuable for the pit.

THE ESLIN FOWL.

This breed, it is said, originated with the Eslin family, of Wash-
ington, D. C. Having bred them extensively, we find them showing
black-red, brown-red and blue-red, with green legs. Many consider
them the same as the Tartar fowl. They are of fine plumage, remark-
ably deep, broad chests, short backs, and strong in the legs and bills,
are strong, fast fighters, and ia our opinion cannot be excelled. The
cocks are of good size, weighing from five and a half to seven pounds.
The hens are good layers and setters and very motherly in the care of
their young. Asa general rule they can be depended upon, and their
product under favorable circumstances is generally abundant. They
are favorites in localities where large fowls are in demand.

IRISH SLASHER.

Is a favorite breed, and having seen their gameness freqnently
tested in the pit and elsewhere, we consider them eminently trust-

98 COCKER’S MANUAL.

worthy. In breeding they show reds, blue-reds and Piles, with either
green or bright yellow legs. The cocks are desperate fighters, fight-
ing as well on their opponent’s hold as their own ; are well built, of
good action, and are inveterate talkers while in the hands. The blue-
reds have pure blue breasts, light red hackles, with turkey-red saddles,
and dark blue tails, legs yellow, etc., making them ornaments to any
fancier’s yards. The reds have a deep, broad, black-red breast, with
yellow legs and a fiery red eye. The Piles have either green or yel-
low legs with light robin breasts, red saddles, light hackles and tail,
and vary in weight from four to six pounds. They are excellent in
the pit, mature early, fight rapidly, and have good wind and endurance.

STONEFENCE FOWL.

This breed is said to have been kept in their purity for more than
fifty years by the Arlington family in North Carolina, by whom
they were extensively fought, invariably coming off victorious. At
the present time this breed is well known throughout the Northern
States. They are of various colors, as black with brass backs and
gray. The blacks are of good size, well shaped, strongly built, and
are good billers and flyers. They are said to carry no superfluous
flesh, and are soon put in condition for the pit.

NEWBOLD REDS

Were imported by Ed. Newbold, a cocker well known in the East-
ern States, and from whom we obtained our stock, giving them the
name of Newbold Reds. The cocks are of good size and station,
stand well up, with heads erect, full breasted, broad across the shoul-
ders, and tapering gradually to the tail. The wings are long almost
meeting at the point, the tail full, with long sickles, breast of a brown-
red colur, the head small, with a large dark eye; most of the cocks
have a loud and savage crow. Their weight runs from four to six
pounds. They legs are of good size and either a dark green or black
color, They are fast becoming favorites,

IRISH MUFFS.

Frequently called New York Muffs, are a breed of fowls fast gaining
a valuable reputation for gameness, and when obtained pure have few

COCKER’S MANUAL. 99

superiors. Formerly they were very numerous, but on account of
being bred by fanciers and irresponsible dealers became unreliable.
Lately, however, new blood has been imported, and once more in the
hands of experienced cockers are fast proving worthy of every fancier
and cocker. They show different colors, and run from five to seven
pounds. By reference to the sporting papers it will be seen that they
have won many a hard fought battle during the past few seasons. They
have a rough-and-tumble style of fighting, are good billers and hard
hitters, have large bones and are well set upon their pins.

BALTIMORE TASSELS.

Have large bodies and breed various colors, as blue-reds, reds and
Piles, with tassels to match. We have often seen their gameness
tested with steels, and find they invariably stand until death. Their
weights run from five to seven pounds; are skillful fighters, stand up
well, and are frequently taller than other fowls ot equal weight, there-
by giving them the advantage in the pit. We have bred them for a
number of years, and have found them healthy and easy to raise.

RATTLERS

Are said to take their name from their style of fighting. They
breed a variety of colors, with blue or green legs, and for fancy or
fighting qualities have few superiors. They are especially desired
when light weights are wanted. The cocks are strong fighters, thor-
oughly game, strongly made, long winded, and as quick as fowls can
conveniently be, mature early, and at an early age can be trusted in
the pit. The cocks vary in size from four to five and a half pounds.
The hens are fair layers, good setters, and show great interest in their
progeny. Of the many crosses we have made none show better than
the Rattlers and Tartars.

RED RIPPERS.

This breed we obtained some years since from a well known cocker
in southern Georgia, who, if our information be correct, originated
them. The name evidently comes from their color, and style of
fighting. Our first stock consisted of a fine five pound cock, in color

100 COCKER’S MANUAL.

nearly white, and two hens of light buff color with yellow legs. We
were informed that the cock was formerly a ginger red, but gradually
changing his color each moulting became nearly pure white. Since
we obtained him he has changed to a darker color, and at present is
as fine a spangle as can be found. He has large, pure white legs. He
was said to have been the winner of many battles, and when we re-
ceived him was cut out for the pit. Although nine years old he moves
as quickly as a yearling stag, is very savage and hard to handle. We
have been offered large sums for him several times. Breeding him
with the hens sent at the same time gave spangles, brass-backs, and
pure reds, with white and yellow legs. They make a close fight, are
always near or mixed up with their opponents, and force the fighting ;
are continually on the move, long winded, very quick in their move-
ments, Inveterate talkers, and are fast becoming great favorites.

DOMINIC GAMES.

This breed of fowl has long been successfully cultivated in the
Southern States and have many admirers. They are quick, skillful
fighters, are of good size, well made, and stand up well on their legs;
which are either white or yellow. In the Northern States their ad-
mirers are less numerous, having a number of times shown a lack of
gameness ; yet many breed and fight them and consider them equal
to their best varieties. They have been successfully fought in a num-
ber of large mains in the South, and have always shown great courage
and gameness. We see no reason why they cannot be bred as pure at
the North.

IRISH PILES

Are a well known breed of Piles, and generally speaking result from
crossing. They are strong, of good bone, and well made throughout,
quick in movement, hard fighters, etc. The cocks run in weight from
four to five and a half pounds, and have greater endurance than most
Pile fowls. They show reds with white grounds and red and white
stripes in the hackle, legs yellow, saddle and buts of wings dark red ;
the feathers of the breast are red and white.

COCKER’S MANUAL. 101
BRASS-BACK GAMES

Have a jet black hackle, bright yellow back, long, flowing dark tail,
yellow or white legs, are broad breasted, short back, wings nearly
meeting at the points, and are a breed much admired. They are good
pit fowls, resulting from a cross ; are fine billers and strong hitters,
stand up well and are thoroughly game. ‘They are of the average

weights.
HENNY GAMES.

This variety was imported from England and Spain at various times,
and it is said to be very difficult to find them in their purity. They
derive their name from the peculiar feathering of the cock, as he
closely resembles a hen in feather but not in size, and when pure never
show any sickle feathers, and the hackle feathers of the neck are quite”
short, like those of the hen, They are of all colors, some white, some
Pile, some spangle, and are said to be dead game.

BREEDING COOPS AND PENS.

Many admirers of fine poultry are deferred from keeping them,
thinking they must have large and expensive coops with plenty of
room, but this is a mistaken idea, as almost any one can at a small
expense build suitable coops and raise as fme fowls as those bred in
large and more costly ones. The following illustration shows one of
our coops, suitable for breeding four varieties, or can be divided inté
two apartments and two runs and so breed two varieties. It has been
our experience that cheap and convenient coops are best, which, after
a few years, can be torn down and replaced by new ones, and in this
way be kept clean and fresh. Frequent whitewashing on the inside
is needed, which prevents in a great measure the most troublesome
pest fanciers have to contend with, lice. Keep the nests clean; and
to be perfect should be so constructed as to be removed quite often,
which allows of their being cleaned and whitewashed more easily.
Any fancier can build a small house and pen suitable for half a dozen
hens in a very short time and at a small expense, giving plenty of
light and air. We prefer giving it height enough to enter, as you

102 COCKER’S MANUAL.

can more’ readily clean it out, the real cost being but a trifle more.
Fowls will bear confinement if a change of food is given them often.
Fresh cut sod does much to help them along. During the winter
season we use plenty of straw. Selecting a place close to our coops

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we spread it on the ground quite thick, and whenever it snows take a
fork and shake the straw up. In this way our fowls have a place to
walk and stand on out of the snow, with no danger of frozen toes and
a good place to scratch, which they enjoy.

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COCKER'S MANUAL. 103
DISEASES.

As it is our purpose to make this manual strictly practical, such
complaints will only be mentioned as are most common and with
which fowls are most liable to be troubled. The methods of treat-
ment have been more or less practiced, and consequently we feel not
the slightest hesitation in recommending them as in every respect
reliable and adapted for the different diseases. Without doubt there
are many instances when it would be more profitable to kill than to
cure the fowl; and an attempt to cure should only be made when the
disease with which the fowl is afflicted is well known. Over treat-
ment should be guarded against. It is better to use precaution than
medicine ; and if fowls are kept clean, are supplied with fresh water
and a change of food, they are less liable to disease.

ROUP.

Perhaps no one disease to which fowls are liable is more trouble-
some than the roup. It attacks the old and the young. Strong and
healthy fowls are less subject, and when attacked are more easily
cured. During the continuance of the disease great care should be
shown the bird. Dr. Cooper gives the symptoms as follows ; ‘‘Rising
and falling of the wattles at each breath, a whooping sound in the
throat, fetid discharge from the nose. In some the head and eyes will
swell, then the swollen parts are feverish, and if not soon attended to
a yellow matter will form in the eyes, which, if not regularly dressed,
will destroy that member. The fowl’s appetite fails, his desire for
drink increases, his crop feels hard, and his feathers lose their glossy
appearance.”’

TREATMENT.—As soon as the disease is discerned the fowl should
be placed by itself in a clean, dry box, with plenty of straw. The
head, neck and throat should be washed, and the eyes thoroughly
rinsed with warm water in which common salt has been dissolved ;
give a half teaspoonful of dry black pepper; supply with soft food—a
little bread soaked in ale is beneficial. When a fowl begins to im-
prove place him in the sun for a short time each day. If the bird
continues to rattle give a teaspoonful of cod-liver oil, or fish oil.
Keep his box clean and supply with fresh straw each day. With good

104 COCKER’S MANUAL.

treatment and proper care the disease in its worst form can be cured.
Nearly every breeder has a method of treatment, but as the difference
is not particularly great, one method will answer every purpose. The
method given above we have applied in many cases, and invariably
with results most favorable. Some authors advise a dose sufficient for
a horse, entirely beyond the capacity of a fowl. The method of treat-
ment as given by Bement is: ‘‘For roup and all putrid affections take
finely pulverized fresh-burned charcoal and new yeast each three parts,
pulverized sulphur two parts, flour one part, and water sufficient to
mix well; make into boluses the size of a hazlenut and give one three
times a day.’’ He also believes in bathing the head, eyes and nos-
trils with warm milk and water.

PIP, OR GAPES

Is a very common disease among young fowls, and is particularly
troublesome during the warmest months. It is caused by drinking
filthy or muddy water, and eating dirty food. Some claim that
drinking rain-water also brings them on; and perhaps it were as well
to keep them trom it. This disease will be detected by the fowl
holding up its head and gasping for breath. We have tried many
advised cures and find none so effectual as turpentine administered
with a feather. Take a tail or wing feather, strip it within one or
two inches of the feathered end, and dipping it into turpentine gently
put it down the fowl’s windpipe, not his gullet. After turning the
feather once or twice draw it out, when it will be found to be covered
with small red worms. These as well as those that remain will be
destroyed by the turpentine. We would advise as likely to prove
beneficial, that camphor be put into the drinking water. A few
drops of turpentine mixed with the corn meal with which the fowls
are fed will, in general, prevent the appearance of the disease.

INDIGESTION.

The remarks on this subject we take from the works of Dr. Bennett :
«‘Cases of indigestion among fowls are common, and deserve atten-
tion according to the causes from which they proceed. A change of
food will often produce crop-sickness, as it is called, when the fowl

COCKER’S MANUAL. 105

takes but little food and suddenly loses flesh. Such disease is of little
consequence and shortly disappears. When it requires attention at all,
all symptoms will be removed by giving their diet in a warm state.
Sometimes, however, a fit of indigestion threatens severe consequen-
ces, especially if long continued. Every effort should be made to
ascertain the cause, and the remedy must be governed by the circum-
stances of the case. * * * * General affections of this kind, as
in the human species, proceed from over feeding or want of exercise.
The symptoms are heaviness, moping, keeping away from the nest and
want of appetite.

RemeEpy.—Lessen the quantity of food, and oblige the fowl to exer-
cise in the open walk. Give some powdered Cayenne and gentian
mixed with the usual food. Iron rust mixed with soft food or diffused
in water is an excellent tonic, as indicated when there is atrophy or
diminution of flesh. It may be combined with oats or other grain.
In England it is said that milk and warm ale have a good effect when
joined to the diet of diseased fowls.”’

MOULTING.

With young birds the process is easy and the time occupied is not
long; but with fowls that have passed beyond the second season the
process of renewing the plumage is protracted and exhausting. Much
assistance can be rendered by the fancier in varying the diet, and
giving tonics, etc. Pieces of meat and fish should be thrown to them
frequently, and lime and pepper mixed with their food. An abund-
ance of grass and vegetables should be allowed them. Their drink
should be composed of a half teaspoonful of sulphate of iron to one
gallon of fresh water; an extra amount of feed should be given them
also. After the third year fowls moult later each succeeding season,
and frequently it is as late as January before they are in full feather.
The fowl should be kept warm and occasionally given a dose of Cay-
enne pepper.

CHICKEN POX.

This is the worst disease to which game fowls are subject, and our
fanciers may well fear, as it will give them greater trouble than any

other disease known. It affects a number of fowls at the same time,
3

106 COCKER’S MANUAL.

and generally goes through the entire flock. We find it results prin-
cipally from fighting, as when the fowl’s head has been badly pecked
and proper attention has not been given toward healing the wounds.
Still we have had it on our yards when no cause was apparent and none
could be ascribed. Some years since, being unable to check it, it run
through and nearly destroyed our whole stock. Since then we have
been more successful, and have found that if taken in time—before
canker gets into the throat—it can be cured with but little trouble.
Symptoms—small yellowish specks scattered over the head and neck,
gradually enlarging until the head and neck become completely cov-
ered ; the mouth and throat become badly cankered ; the eyes swell
shut, and in this condition the fowl remains until death ensues. As
soon as a fowl becomes affected he should be placed in a coop by
himself.

TREATMENT.—Make a strong brine of warm water and salt, and
with a soft, fine sponge wash the head and neck; thoroughly rinse
the eyes; carefully scrape the mouth with a small, sharp stick, to re-
move the canker; with the fore finger rub salt well pulverized in the
mouth and throat; mix equal parts of sweet oil and turpentine and
apply with a feather to the head and neck. No injury will result if
the eyes are treated similarly. The fowl should receive the same
treatment twice each day, and if carefully attended will grow better
in two or three days; the scabs will come off, the appetite will be in-
creased, and soon he will be well. During the sicknes a slight physic
should be given, also a light feed of bread and milk. If the fowl re-
fuses to eat force the food down. If the above be followed as recom-
mended the worst cases can generally be cured.

RUNNING AT THE NOSE, OR, CATARRH.

It is almost impossible at the present day to go on any breeder’s
yard and not find this disease existing to a greater or less extent. We
have noticed it at poultry shows as well as onthe yards. Its existence
can readily ascertained by pressing gently with the thumb and fore
finger on either side of the nostril, when an offensive whitish matter
will make its appearance.

4

TREATMENT.—Wash the head in warm water in which salt has been
dissolved. Pure cider vinegar diluted with water will also answer the

COCKER’S MANUAL. 107

purpose. Place the fowl in warm quarters and give him a warm feed
with a slight physic. This resembles the roup somewhat, and in fact
is the first stage of that disease.

DIARRHGA, OR DYSENTERY

Requires immediate and careful treatment. It is frequently brought
on by giving green or soft food, in which case change the feed, as this
will do much towards curing the disease in the first stages. Chalk
mixed with boiled rice and milk, with a little alum dissolved in the
drinking water, will prove beneficial. The disease is accelerated by
dampness, cold and wet weather, without proper shelter and care.

COSTIVENESS

Will be noticed by the fowl’s frequent attempts to relieve itself.
The cause is continued dry, hard feed, and a limited supply of clean
water.

TREATMENT.—Give a feed of bread and milk, warmed ; a small
quantity of fresh meat may be safely given, with a change of green
food, as cabbage chopped fine; mashed boiled potatoes are also good.
If this method be strictly followed a cure will be perfected in nearly
every case.

LIMED LEG

Is first perceived by the whitish appearance of the legs, subsequently
becoming sore; the scales enlarge and the toes crack open. Several
methods of treatment are recommended, which we have tried with
varying success ; but advise the following as likely to work a cure as
any method used: Wash the fowl with warm water and soap, after
which wipe dry and grease with salt butter or lard, or fish oil. An-
other advised method is, wash the leg with kerosene oil and annoint
with salt grease, or rub the parts affected with red precipitate oint-
ment. ‘The white legged varieties are more subject to this disease
than others.

108 COCKER’S MANUAL.
RHEUMATISM

Arises frequently from confinement in a cold and damp place, with-
out sufficient light or air. It is noticed by the stiffness of the limbs,
unsteady gait, and evident pain caused by the slightest movement.
The disease can be partially if not entirely removed by placing the
fowl in a warm, dry place, and externally applying stimulants, rub-
bing the legs and thighs. A soft or opening feed will be of service.
The large varieties appear to be more subject to this disease than others.

RATTLES, OR ASTHMA.

A complaint particularly prevalent among young fowls, and is oc-
casioned by colds, or cold, damp weather’ The premonitory symp-
toms are a rattling sound in the throat, with a perceptible laboring
for breath, occasioned by phlegm obstructing the air cells.

TREATMENT.—Bathe the head in warm salted water ; give a tea-
spoonful of vinegar each morning, also a dose of dry black pepper.
The food should consist of bread and milk; a light physic may be
given. A cure is sometimes effected by giving a teaspoonful of cod-
liver oil during the first stages of the disease. Care should be taken
to keep the fowl in warm quarters.

FEVER

Is of frequent occurrence among fowls that have been long confined,
over fed, and not given a sufficient supply of water. Fighting also
occasions it. Fever is easily cured, but when attending other diseases
frequently proves fatal. Symptoms: The head is hot, eyes very
red, etc.

TREATMENT.—Give a light physic, with a little nitre in the drinking
water. With light food and change of air the fowl will soon recover.

LOSS OF FEATHERS.

The following remarks on this subject we take from Dr. Bennett’s
Poultry Book: ‘‘This disease, which is common to confined fowls, is
by no means to be confounded with the natural process of moulting.

COCKER’S MANUAL, 109

In the annual healthy moult, the fall of the feathers is occasioned by
the protrusion of new feathers from the skin. In the diseased state,
which we now consider, where the feathers fall no new ones come to
replace them, but the fowl is left bald and naked. A sort of rough-
ness appears alo on the skin.

“‘Symptoms.—A falling off in appetite, moping and inactivity, the
feathers starting and falling off until the naked skin appears.

‘““REMEDY.—This affection is supposed by some to be constitutional
rather than local. External remedies, therefore, may not always be
efficient. Stimulants applied externally may serve to assist the opera-
tion of what medicine may be given. Sulphur may be thus applied,
mixed with lard. Cayenne and sulphur, in the proportion of one
quarter each mixed with fresh butter, is good to be given internally,
and will act as a powerful alterative. The diet should be changed,
and cleanliness and fresh air are indispensable.

EATING THEIR FEATHERS.

On this subject the National Live Stock Journal for Decemher, 1871,
has the following: ‘‘Eating each other’s feathers is a habit fowls often
contract when confined in yards, but is not, perhaps, fully understood.
‘It is a morbid appetite,’ says a writer in the Cultivator, ‘apparently
induced in the outset by the impatience of the fowls under confine-
ment.’ It is well known that fowls are very fond of blood, and when
moulting the new feathers are generally called bloodshot ; that is, the
ends of the quills, when quite young, have a drop or so of blood,
which induces the fowl to pluck for the blood contained in them ; and
we have known it to be kept up till some individuals of the flock, who
were made special victims, were almost entirely denuded of their
feathers, and sometimes have even had their entrails torn out.”’

INFLAMMATION, OR SWELLING OF THE EYES,

Is said to be a specific inflammation of the lining of the membrane
of the air passages of the nose. The disease arises from exposure to
cold and damp weather or constitutional delicacy. There is no reg-
ular treatment prescribed for this disease that we are aware of, but dry
shelter, stimulating, peppered food and corn may be given with ad-

IIo COCKER’S MANUAL.

vantage. Twice each day give one grain of sulphate of iron, three of
Cayenne pepper and a desert spoonful of cod-liver oil mixed in their
meal or feed. If the head of the bird feels feverish, bathe with warm
salted water or warm milk and water two or three times a day.

MELANCHOLY AND MOPING.

When a fowl hangs its wings and looks droopingly immediate atten-
tion should be given. If he appears purged, give a teaspoonful of
brandy with a few drops of camphor in a tablespoonfnl of warm water.
keeping the fowl in a clean, warm place, giving him only soft food,
If this treatment is followed the bird will soon recover, unless it has
been too long neglected.

APOPLEXY

Occurs from over feeding and can seldom be treated in time. It is
more troublesome among hens, which are found dead on their nests.
or under their roosts. If perceived in time lessen the quantity of
food. Stimulating food should not be given to fowls subject to this
disease. It is recommended that bleeding the fowl under the wing
will possibly effect a cure.

CORNS.

The larger varieties of games are particularly subject to corns,
which are occasioned by roosting high or by long confinement in
coops. These will be found in the fleshy part of the foot, often caus-
ing lameness. To remove, cut around the hard substance forming the
corn, and apply equal parts of sweet oil and turpentine. Frequently
they can be removed with a knife. Keep the foot soft and all trouble
on this account will cease.

CARE OF WOUNDED FOWLS.

v

When fowls are injured immediate attention should be given to
prevent the fever which generally follows the injury. When the fowl
has been badly pecked and torn, the head should be washed in blood-
warm water, using a soft sponge, carefully removing the blood ; grease

COCKER’S MANUAL. 111

the parts affected with salt butter. Give butter rolled into a pill the
size of a marble; this tends to remove the bleod and feathers in the
throat, and serves as a slight physic. Fora few days only food of a
soft nature should be given; also a small quantity of nitre should be
placed in the drinking water. Where fowls, either old or young, have
been badly injured in the pit the closest attention is necessary. If the
injury occurs in the winter season, warm quarters must be provided to
avoid taking cold. Asa general thing fowls injured with the steels
more readily recuperate than those torn with the naked spur. The
day after fighting give the fowl a feed of bread and milk, warmed.
The blood and feathers in the throat and mouth should be removed,
and a few drops of wine given as stimulant. If fever is prevented

from making its appearance the fowl can cafely be placed on the walk
in a few days. It is not advisable, however, to place the cock on his
walk after battle, during cold weather, as he is liable to take more
cold, which usually results in his death.

TARTAR GAME COCK.

II2 COCKER’S MANUAL.

THE STANDARD OF EXCELLENCE.

Up to this point we have given a brief exposition of many subjects
intimately connected with the breeding and management of Game
Fowls, studiously avoiding everything uninteresting to the cocker
and fancier, yet evidently the Manual will hardly be complete if a
briefspace were not devoted to those breeding standard or exhibition
birds, and for their benefit we give the latest revised Standard of
Excellence.

BLACK-BREASTED RED GAMES.

DISQUALINVICA TIONS.

Color of legs or plumage not matching, when shown in pairs or trios; crooked
backs; wry tails; malformed breasts; duck-feet; adult cocks not dubbed, any arti-
ficial coloring; trimming or plucking foul feathers.

THE COCK.

Heap: Very rich, dark red, long, thin and tapering, and very
strong at its junction with the neck. Beak, willow or dark horn-color,
slightly curved, and strong at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND Ear-Loses: Comb, in chickens that have not
been dubbed, single, small and thin, low in front, serrated, erect and
straight ; mature birds to be neatly dubbed, and free from warty ex-
crescences, small feathers, or ridges on the edges. Wattles, in chick-
ens, brilliant red, very thin, and smooth in texture. Ear-lobes, rich
red, small, and smooth in texture.

Eyes: Large and prominent, bright, clear, deep bay, with a quick
and fearless expression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Rather long and nicely arched, the hackle being rich red,
short and close, and free from black stripes.

COCKER’S MANUAL. _ 113

Back: Rich, dark red, rather short, flat, broad across the shoulders,
and narrowing to the tail; the stern slender and neat, and the saddle-
feathers very short and close, and, in color, rich red.

Breast AND Bopy: Breast, broad and full, and a rich black, free
from any admixture of red, or any other color. Body, very firm and
muscular, not soft or hollow on the sides, broadest at the shoulders
and tapering towards the tail; the under part rich, deep black.

Wines: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
slightly raised, as if for a sudden spring ; the remainder not drooping
but carried compactly against the sides, the points resting under the
saddle feathers; the primaries bay on the outside web, and black on
the inside web; the secondaries a rich, clear, bright bay on the out-
side web, and black on the inside web, with arich metallic or green-
ish-black spot on the ends of the feathers; wing-butts, black; wing-
bows, rich, dark red, perfectly free from black feathers ; wing-coverts,
metallic or greenish-black, forming a wide bar across the wings,
perfectly even and well defined, and not irregular on the edges.

Tart: Rich black, of medium length, carried well together, and at
a moderate elevation ; sickle-feathers and tail-coverts a very rich me-
tallic or greenish. black.

Lecs anD FEET: Thighs, black, rather long, round, stout, hard and
firm, and placed well torward on the body. Shanks, in color, willow,
olive, yellow, white or blue, rather long, bony, clean and strong, and
standing well and evenly apart, the scales smooth and close, and the
spurs set on low. Feet, broad, thin and flat; the toes long, straight
and spreading, and well furnished with strong nails; the hind-toes set
low on the feet, standing well backwards, and flat on the ground, and
not merely touching with the points, or duck-footed.

Harpness oF FEATHER: Body-feathers, short, glossy, close, hard
and firm; quills, very hard and strong.

THE HEN.

Heap: Long, slender, tapering, very neat in appearance, and
brown in color. Beak, horn-color, slightly curved, sharp at the point,
and stout at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND EarR-LoBes: Comb, single, small and thin, low
in front, evenly serrated, and perfectly erect and straight; in color,

114 COCKER’S MANUAL.

very bright red. Wattles, bright red, small, thin, and neatly rounded
on the edges. Ear-lobes, bright red, very small and close to the face.

Eves: Brilliant red or bay, large and prominent, with a quick and
fearless expression, and exactly alike in color.

Neck: Long, the hackle a bright brownish-yellow, striped black,
the feathers very short, giving the neck a slender and graceful ap-
pearance.

Back: Brown, penciled with black, of moderate length, broad
across the shoulders, flat, and narrowing to the tail.

Breast AND Bopy: Breast, broad, round and prominent, deep sal-
mon-color, shading off to ashy-brown towards the thighs. Body, very
firm and muscular, broadest at the shoulders, and tapering towards the
tail, the general plumage a rich brown.

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
carried somewhat high, making a flat back, the points not drooping,
but carried compactly against the sides; primaries and secondaries
brown ; wing-bows, shoulders and coverts brown, penciled with black,
and perfectly free from red.

Tait: Dark brown, approaching black, moderate in length, not
carried over the back, but extending backwards at a slight elevation,
the feathers not spread out, but held neatly together.

Lrecs: Thighs, ashy-brown, stout and round, and the feathers short
and close. Shanks, long, bony, clear and tapering, the scales narrow,
smooth and close, and, in color, to match those of the cock when
placed on exhibition. Feet, broad, flat and thin; toes, long, straight
and spreading, and well furnished with strong nails, the hind-toes set
low on the feet, standing well backwards, not duck- footed.

HARDNESS OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, close, short hard and firm ;
quills, very hard and strong.

CarriaGE: Neat, upright, quick and active.

POINTS IN BLACK-BREASTED RED GAMES.

Symmetry, ---- See a ere Sone 6223, 10
Condition, oss uses xSee2 pepsi ee 6
Station, Sue ene esis Esse ass See5.) ae
Color, ---- ees ores pene ae cane 12
Head, eee eee Soe Sees eee Saat AS
Comb, Wattles and Ear-lobes, asee. eta ae 4

Eyes, —— wae sues pee —= eo 45

COCKER’S MANUAL. 115

Neck, --.- ae eee Sete sos ape 4
Back, Rare Bose — a aoe S825: “5
Breast and Body, ---- o2ne ees S225 pees 6
Wings, eee eee ae Pee 2225 San, “@
Tail, sass os S525 SE25 eose So25 7
Legs, Beare Senne S555 aot, ems ssou. 6
Feet, ees eee S225 S225 a ase 6
Hardness of Feather, ~--- S225 g2Ss eae ee ee
100

BROWN-RED GAMES.

DISQUALIFICA TIONS.

Color of legs or plumage not matching, when shown in pairs or trios; crooked
packs; wry tails; malformed breasts; duck-feet; adult cocks not dubbed; any arti-
ficial coloring; trimming or plucking foul feathers.

THE COCK.

Heap: Very dark red, long, thin and tapering, and very strong at
its junction with the neck. Beak, nearly or quite black, slightly
curved, and strong at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND EaR-LOBES: Comb, in chickens that have not
been dubbed, single, small and thin, low in front, serrated, erect and
straight ; mature birds to be neatly dubbed, and free from warty ex-
crescences, small feathers, or ridges, on the edges. Wattles, in chick-
ens, deep red or dark purple, very thin and smooth in texture. Ear-
lobes, deep red or dark purple, small, thin, and smooth in texture.

Eyes: Dark brown or black, large, prominent and bright, with a
quick and fearless expression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Rather long and nicely arched, the hackle being short and
close, and rich red in color, finely striped with black.

BREAST AND Bopy: Breast, broad, full, round, and black in color,
the shafts and margins of the feathers being reddish-brown, the color
becoming darker as it approaches the thighs. Body, very firm and

116 COCKER’S MANUAL.

muscular, not soft or hollow on the sides, broadest at the shoulders
and tapering towards the tail.

Wines: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
slightly raised, as if for a sudden spring ; the remainder not drooping,
but carried compactly against the sides, the points resting under the
saddle-feathers ; the primaries dusky-black ; secondaries, black, with
metallic lustre towards the ends of the feathers; wing-bows, dark
crimson-red ; wing-butts, black, or very dusky-brown ; wing-coverts,
rich, glossy black.

Tait: Black, of medium length, carried well together, and at a
moderate elevation ; tail-coverts, rich, glossy black, and nicely curved.

Lees: Thighs, dusky-black, rather long, round, stout, hard and
firm, and pleced well forward on the body. Shanks, olive, dark wil-
low or bronzy-black, rather long, bony, clean and strong, and stand-
ing well and evenly apart, the scales smooth and close, and the spurs
set on low. Feet, broad, thin and flat; the toes long, straight and
spreading, and well furnished with strong nails ; the hind-toes set low
on the feet, standing well backwards and flat on the ground, and not
merely touching with the points, or duck-footed.

HarDNESS OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, short, hard and firm ; quills,
very hard and strong.

THE HEN.

Heap: Dark, dusky-brown, approaching a dusky-black, long,
slender, tapering, and very neat in appearance. Beak, black, or
nearly so, slightly curved, sharp at the point and stout at the base.

Coms, WATTLES AND Ear-LoBES: Comb, red or dark purple, single,
small and thin, low in front, evenly serrated and perfectly erect and
straight. Wattles, red or dark purple, small, thin and neatly rounded
on the edges. Ear-lobes, red or dark purple, very small, and close to
the face.

Eyes. Dark brown or black, large, prominent and bright, with a
quick, fiery expression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Rich gold or bright lemon-color, striped with black, long
feathers very short, giving the neck a slender and graceful appearance.

Back: Very dark brown, approaching black, of moderate length,
flat, broad across the shoulders, and narrowing to the tail.

COCKER’S MANUAL.' 117

Breast AND Bopy: Breast, brilliant black, broad, round and
prominent. Body, very firm and muscular, broadest at the shoulders,
and tapering towards the tail.

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
carried somewhat high, so as to cause a flat back, the points mot
drooping, but carried compactly against the sides; primaries and
secondaries, as well as wing-bows and coverts, brilliant black, dusky-
black, or very dark brown.

TaiL: Black, moderate in length, not carried over the back, but
extending backwards, the feathers not spread out, but held neatly to-
gether.

Lecs ; Thighs, black, stout and round, and the feathers short and
close. Shanks, long, bony, clean and tapering, the scales narrow,
smooth and close, to match those of the cock when placed on exhibi-
tion. Feet, broad, flat and thin; toes, long, straight and spreading,
well furnished with strong nails, the hind-toes set low on the feet,
standing well backwards, and not duck-footed.

Harpness OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, close, short, hard and firm;
quills, very hard and strong.

CarriaGE: Neat, upright, quick and active.

POINTS IN BROWN-RED GAMES,
Symmetry, ---- eel

aes ees pene stax 40
Condition, Bate Leela wets Sows eae 6
Station, enEe baes S258 aoe sees seee 2
Color, ---- ees pees wee Meee wee 12
Head, Eee Se25 pie ne Sees) aes wueen YS
Comb, Wattles and Ear-lobes, ae ee bes 4
Eyes, mee —— pees —— Zee seae: -5
Neck, ---- See e2e= ee ess eee 4
Back, amas aSss iat oie eae sews OF
Breast and Body, Sew fase ee nee 6
Wings, woos gabe Bucs secs aaa eee.
Tail, eds ae wack soe pss seks 7
Legs, ewes Soee = sans woe e=acu, 16
Feet, uae S55 eoem eke Sos sees 6
Hardness of Feather, ---- ee Sees sek wees: 5

Ioo

118 COCKER’S MANUAL.

GINGER-RED GAMES.

DISQUALIFICA TIONS.

Color of legs or plumage not matching, when shown in pairs or trios; crooked
backs; wry tails; malformed breasts; duck-feet; adult cocks not dubbed; any arti-
ficial coloring; trimming or plucking foul feathers.

THE COCK.

Heap: Red, long, thin and tapering, and very strong at its junction
with the neck. Beak, olive or bronzy-black, slightly curved and
strong at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND Ear-LoBEs: Comb, in chickens that have not
been dubbed, single, small and thin, low in front, serrated, etect and
straight; mature birds to be neatly dubbed, and free from warty ex-
crescences, small feathers, or ridges on the edges. Wattles, red, very
thin, and smooth in texture. Ear-lobes, red, small, thin, and smooth
in texture.

Eyes: Brown or black, large, prominent and bright, with a quick
and fearless expression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Rather long and nicely arched, the hackle short and close,
and a rich, clear red in color.

Back: Rich red, rather short, flat, broad across the shoulders, and
narrowing to the tail; the stern slender and neat, and the saddle-
feathers very short and close, and a rich, clear red.

' Breast anD Bopy: Breast, in color, ginger-red, becoming darker
towards the thighs, broad, round and full. Body, general plumage
rich red, very firm and muscular, not soft or hollow on the sides,
broadest at the shoulders and tapering to the tail.

Wincs: Brownish-red, of medium length, and powerful, the butts
and shoulders slightly raised, as if for a sudden spring ; the remainder
not drooping, but carried compactly against the sides, the points rest-
ing under the saddle feathers; primaries and secondaries, brownish-
red; wing-bows and shoulder-coverts, rich red.

Tait: Black, of medium length, carried well together and at a
moderate elevation; tail-coverts, rich black, the lesser covects edged
with red.

COCKER’S MANUAL. 119

Lecs: Thighs, dusky-red, rather long, round, stout, hard and firm,
and placed well forward on the body. Shanks, olive, dark willow, or
bronzy-black, rather long, bony, clean and strong, and standing well
and evenly apart, the scales smooth and close, and the spurs set on
low. Feet, broad, thin and flat; the toes long, straight and spread-
ing, and well furnished with strong nails; the hind-toes set low on the
feet, standing well backwards, and flat on the ground, and not merely
touching with the points, or duck-footed.

HARDNESS OF FEATHERS: Body-feathers, short, hard and firm; quills,
very hard and strong.

THE HEN.

HeapD: Yellowish-brown, long, slendering. tapering, and very neat
in appearance. Beak, olive, or bronzy-black, slightly curved, sharp
at the point and stout at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND Ear-Loges: Comb, purplish-red, single, small
and thin, low in front, evenly serrated, and perfectly erect and straight.
Wattles, dark-red,. small, thin, and neatly rounded on the edges.
Ear-lobes, dark-red, very small, and close to the face.

Eves: Brown or black, large, prominent and bright, with a quick,
fiery expression, 2nd perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Golden-yellow, striped with black, long, the feathers very
short, giving the neck a slender and graceful appearance.

Back: Yellowish-brown, of moderate length, flat, broad across the
shoulders, and narrowing to the tail.

Breast AND Bopy: Breast, broad, round and prominent, the higher
part, near the throat, a yellowish-brown; the shafts, and a narrow
margin of feathers, of a much lighter shade; the lower part and sides
a dusky-brown, with a narrow margin of a golden-ginger shade. Body,
very firm and muscular, broadest at the shoulders, and tapering to the
tail; the general color of the plumage a yellowish-brown.

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
carried somewhat high, so as to cause a flat back, the points not
drooping, but carried compactly against the sides; the primaries and
secondaries, dark brown or black; wing-coverts, yellowish-brown.

TaiL: Black, moderate in length, not carried over the back, but
extending backwards, the feathers not spread out, held neatly to-
gether.

120 COCKER’S MANUAL.

Lecs: Thighs, dusky-brown, stout and round, and the feathers short
and close. Shanks, olive, dark willow or bronzy-black, long, clean,
bony and tapering, the scales narrow, smooth and close, to match
those of the cock when shown in pairs or trios. Feet, broad, flat and

PIT FOWL.

thin; toes, long straight and spreading, well furnished with strong
nails ; the hind-toes set low on the feet, standing well backwards, and
not duck-footed.

HARDNESS OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, close short, hard and firm Fs
quills, very hard and strong.

CaRRIAGE; Neat, upright, quick and active.

COCKER’S MANUAL. 121

POINTS IN GINGER-RED GAMES,
Symmetry, ----

fines nee LG Sass ee io)
Condition, ao Aes aes oreit & ASA ere 6
Station, aoe Sarre PLIES arene pane Sie £He
Color, _--- ata wae aeons ae wee 12
Head, poe eos fea oes Bere Petts wees,
Comb, Wattles and Ear-lobes, wee eae one 4
Eyes, teas ae pals eee aon toee 5
Neck, ___- ene perm hie es POSES 4
Back, see es ater wes us sex S
Breast and Body, ---- ae amie sued anes 6
Wings, dates eras Sen oa Sates Seb
Tail, Say, hao ee ae eae ee "]
Legs, aaa eae aes aes see 5S Ueen 6
Feet, See Bed tos ee eee Sek pee 6
Hardness of Feather, ---- ees a eae ee,

100

YELLOW DUCKWING GAMES.

DISQUALIFICA TIONS.

Adult cocks not dubbed; color of legs or plumage not matching, when shown in
pairs or trios; crooked backs; wry tails; malfoimed breasts; duck-feet; any artifi-
cial coloring; trimming or plucking foul feathers.

THE COCK.

HEAD: Straw-color or yellow, long thin and tapering, and very
strong at its junction with the neck. Beak, willow, olive or blue,
slightly curved, and strong at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND Ear-Lopes: Comb, bright red in chickens
that have not been dubbed, single. small, and thin, low in front, ser-
rated, erect and straight; mature birds to be neatly dubbed, and free
from warty excrescences, small feathers or ridges on the edges. Wat-

9

122 COCKER’S MANUAL.

tles, brilliant red, very thin, and smooth in texture. Ear-lobes, bril-
liant, red, small, thin, and smooth in texture.

Eves; Red, or deep bay, large, prominent and bright, with a quick
and fearless expression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Rather long and nicely arched, the hackle a clear straw-
color, free from black stripes.

Back: Rather short, flat, broad across the shoulders, and narrowing
to the tail, the plumage a rich, uniform, bright copper or maroon, the
more even, clear and unmixed in color the better; the stern slender
and neat, and the saddle-feathers very short and close, and of straw
color.

BREAST AND Bopy: Breast, rich black, broad, fulland round. Body,
very firm and muscular, not soft or hollow on the sides, broadest at
the shoulders, and tapering to the tail; the under part of the body a
rich black.

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
slightly taised, as if for a sudden spring ; the remainder not drooping,
but carried compactly against the sides, the points resting under the
saddle feathers ; primaries straw-white on the outside web, dark on the
inside web; the secondaries white on the outside web, dark on the
inside, and also at the ends of the feathers; wing-butts, black; wing-
covests, steel blue or metallic black, forming a wide bar across the
wings.

TatL- Black, of medium length, carried well together, and at a
moderate elevation; sickle feathers and tail-coverts a rich metallic or
greenish-black.

Lecs. Thighs, rich black, rather long, round, stout, hard and firm,
and placed well forward on the body. Shanks, willow, olive, yellow
or blue, rather long, clean, bony and strong, and standing well and
evenly apart ; the scales smooth and close, and the spurs set on low.
Feet, broad, thin and flat; the toes long, straight and spreading, and
well furnished with strong nails; the hind-toes set low on the feet,
standing well backwards, and flat on the gsound, and not merely
touching with the points, or duck-footed,

HarpDNEss OF FEaTHER: Body-feathers, short, hard and firm ; quills,
very hard and strong.

COCKER’S MANUAL. 123

THE HEN,

Heap: Gray, long, slender, tapering and very neat in appearance.
Beak, willow, olive or blue, slightly curved, sharp at the point and
stout at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND Ear-LOBES: Comb, bright red, single, small
and thin, low in front, evenly serrated, and perfectly erect and
straight. Wattles, bright red, small, thin, and neatly rounded on the
edges. Ear-lobes, bright red, very small and close to the face.

Eyes: Red or deep bay, large, prominent and bright, with a quick
and fiery expression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: White, striped with black, long, the feathers very short,
giving the neck a slender and graceful appearance.

Back: Bluish or slaty-gray, the shafts of feathers white, of moderate
length, flat, broad across the shoulders, aud narrowing to the tail.

BREAST AND Bopy: Breast, salmon-red, shading off to ashy-gray
toward the thighs, broad, round and prominent. Body, very firm and
muscular, broadest at the shoulders and tapering to the tail.

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
carried somewhat high, so as to cause a flat back, the points not
drooping but carried compactly against the sides; primaries and sec-
ondaries a slaty or bluish-gray ; wing-bows and wing-coverts a slaty or
bluish-gray, the shafts of the feathers being white; red or brown on
the wings very objectionable.

Tait: Dark gray, the inside approaching black, moderate in length,
not carried over the back, but extending backwards, the feathers not
spread out, but held neatly together.

Lecs: Thighs, ashy-gray, stout and round, and the feathers short
and close. Shanks, long, bony, clean and tapering, the scales narrow,
smooth and close, and to match the cock in color when placed on
exhibition. Feet, broad, flat and thin; toes, long, straight and
spreading, well furnished with strong nails; the hind-toes set low on
the feet, standing well backwards, and not duck-footed.

HarvpneEss OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, close, short, hard and firm ;
quills, very hard and strong.

CarRRIAGE: Neat, upright, quick and active.

POINTS IN YELLOW DUCK WING GAMES.
Symmetry, ---- ---- ---- ---- ---- dese 26

Condition, sees eeeies oes moe esas 6

124 COCKER’S MANUAL.

iS)

Station, Zuee rete oorae ae aera
Colores. 222s rae seme ede Bees patos
Head, eee ee Pers ae Beerats a
Comb, Wattles and Ear-lobes, Je pete pase
Eyes, eee oe ees cies sae mee
Neck, —---- aes ---- ees ons late

Se an!

WANAN RP DAU RN LE OW

Back, cere ee sees ees Ss aeerees
Breast and Body, Seas Sees Jone ae
Wings, arora’ suse Eee Sees eee eee
Tail, ss wore aes pees em ee
Legs, Esa ones ees Sx52 eee Bees
Feet, fetes base hee Peres Sane mnees
Hardness of Feather, -_--- eee eee ae Ss,

4
°
°

SILVER DUCKWING GAMES.

DISQUALIFICATIONS.

Adult cocks not dubbed, color of legs or plumage not matching, when shown in
pairs or trios; crooked backs; wry tails; malformeu breasts; duck-feet; any arti-
ficial coloring; trimming or plucking foul feathers.

THE COCK.

Heap: Silvery-white, long, thin and tapering, and very strong
at its junction with the neck. Beak, olive or yellow, slightly curved,
and strong at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND EAR-LOBES: Comb, bright red in chickens that
have not been dubbed, single, small and thin, low in front, serrated,
erect and straight ; mature birds to be neatly dubbed, and free from
warty excrescences, small feathers, or ridges on the edges. Wattles,
bright red, very thin, and smooth in texture. Ear-lobes, bright red,
small, thin and smooth in texture.

Eyes: Red or deep bay, large, prominent and bright, with a quick
and fearless expression, and perfectly alike in color.

COCKER’S MANUAL, 125

Neck; Rather long and nicely arched, hackle short and close, clear
white, without any mixture of black or any other color.

Back: Silvery-white, rather short, flat, broad across the shoulders,
and narrowing to the tail; the stern slender and neat, and the saddle-
feathers a clear white, and very short and close.

BREAST AND Bopy: Breast, black, broad, full and round. Body,
very firm and muscular, not soft or hollow on the sides, broadest at
the shoulders and tapering towards the tail; the under part of the
body black.

Wines: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
slightly raised, as if for a sudden spring; the remainder not drooping
but carried compactly against the sides, the points resting under the
saddle feathers; the primaries white on the outside web, and dark on
the inside web; the secondaries a clear white on the outside web,
black on the inside web and on the ends of the feathers; wing-bows,
silvery-white.wing-butts, black, and wing-coverts, a steel-blue, forming
wide bars across the wings.

TaiL: Black, of medium length, carried well together, and at a
moderate elevation ; tail-coverts, a metallic or greenish-black, and
nicely curved.

Lecs anD FEET: Thighs, black, rather long, round, stout, hard and
firm, and placed well forward on the body. Shanks, willow, olive,
bronze or blue, rather long, bony, clean and strong, and standing well
and evenly apart, the scales smooth and close, and the spurs set on
low. Feet, broad, thin and flat; the toes long, straight and spread-
ing, and well furnished with strong nails; the hind-toes set low on the
feet, standing well backwards, and flat on the ground, and not merely
touching with the points, or duck-footed.

Harpness OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, short, hard and firm; quills,
very hard and strong.

THE HEN.

Heap: Silvery-gray, long, slender, tapering, very neat in appear-
ance: Beak, willow or bronze, slightly curved, sharp at the point, and
stout at the base. :

Come, WaTtLes AND Ear-Loges: Comb, single, small and thin, low
in front, evenly serrated, and perfectly erect and straight. Wattles,

126 COCKER’S MANUAL.

bright red, small, thin, and neatly rounded on the edges. Ear-lobes,
bright red, very small and close to the face.

Eves: Red or deep bay, large, prominent and bright, with a quick,
flery expression, and perfectly alike in color.

NEck: Silvery-white, striped black, long, the feathers very short,
giving the neck a slender and graceful appearance.

Back: Silvery or ashy-gray, the shafts of feathers white, flat, of
moderate length, broad across the shoulders, and narrowing to the tail,

BREAST AND Bopy: Breast, salmon, broad, round and prominent,
Body, very firm and muscular, broadest at the shoulders, and tapering
to the tail.

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
carried somewhat high, so as to cause a flat back, the points not
drooping, but carried compactly against the sides; the primaries,
secondaries and wing-coverts gray ; wing-bows, ashy-gray, the shafts
of feathers white ; red or brown on the wings very objectionable.

Tait: Dark gray, approaching black, moderate in length, not
carried over the back, but extending backwards, the feathers not
spread out, but held neatly together.

Lecs: Thighs, ashy-brown, stout and round, and the feathers short
and close. Shanks, long, bony, clear and tapering, the scales narrow,
smooth and close, and, in color, to match those of the cock when
placed on exhibition. Feet, broad, flat and thin; toes, long, straight
and spreading, and well furnished with strong nails, the hind-toes set
low on the feet, standing well backwards, and not duck- footed.

Harpness oF FEATHER: Body-feathers, close, short hard and firm ;
quills, very hard and strong.

CarriacE: Neat, upright, quick and active.

POINTS IN SILVER DUOKWING GAMES.

Symmetry, ---- pare EeaerS dis2 Suse saee> “TS
Condition, ene! eens ae =e wsey 6
Station, ere ane sae aes ease seek: 2
Color, ___- cee pment ee ropes Rea 12
Head, newer cas arkers ae woes sees, 19
Comb, Wattles and Ear-lobes, Shes aoa aes

Eyes, aoe nee ks wits, =225 Soe5

4.
Neck, ____ Rie nee Bors Siok Susie
Back, ane eae ees oe ae, Sses,: &

COCKER’S MANUAL. 127

Breast and Body, ~~. eee eae eee soa 6
Wings, woes ee eye ae =e Sook A
Tail, gies aoe etek aan eee sous 7
Legs, mee ages ee Bees soos ee)
Feet, we aa nee Se ESP 2: aes 6
Hardness of Feather, --.. ees aera sere gesey.

100

RED PILE GAMES.

DISQUALIFICA TIONS.

Adult cocKs not dubbed; color of legs or plumage not matching, when shown in
pairs or trios; crooked backs; wry tails; malformed breasts; duck- feet; artificial
coloring; trimming or plucking foul feathers,

THE COCK.

Heap: Deep chestnut red, long, thin and tapering, and very strong
at its junction with the neck. Beak, slightly curved, and strong at
the base.

Comp, WATTLES aND Ear-Lopes: Comb, rich, bright red, in chick-
ens that have not been dubbed, small, single and thin, low in front,
serrated, erect and straight ; mature birds to be neatly dubbed, and
free from warty excrescences, small feathers, or ridges, on the edges.
Wattles, red, very thin and smooth in texture. Ear-lobes, red small,
thin, and smooth in texture.

Eyes: Red or brown, large, prominent and bright, with a quick
and fearless expression, and perfectly alike in color.

NeEcK: Rather long and nicely arched, the hackle light chestnut-
red.

Back: Uniform rich red, rather short, flat, broad across the shoul-
ders and narrowing to the tail; the stern slender and neat, and the
saddle-feathers light chestnut-red, and very short and close.

BREAST AND Bopy: Breast, white, slightly penciled with chestnut-
red, broad, full, and round. Body, very firm and muscular, not soft

128 COCKER’S MANUAL.

or hollow on the sides, broadest at the shoulders and tapering to the
tail.

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
slightly raised, as if for a sudden spring ; the remainder not drooping,
but carried compactly against the sides, the points resting under the
saddle-feathers ; primaries white ; secondaries, red on the outside web,
and white on the inside web, with a white spot on the end of each
feather; wing-bows, uniform rich red; wing-coverts, white, edged
with red.

TaiL: White, of medium length, carried well together, and at a
moderate elevation ; sickle-feathers white and handsomely curved.

Lees: Thighs, white, rather long, round, stout, hard and firm,
and placed well forward on the body. Shanks, willow, yellow or
white, rather long, bony, clean and strong, and standing well and
evenly apart, the scales smooth and close, and the spurs set on low.
Feet, broad, thin and flat; the toes long, straight and spreading, and
well furnished with strong nails; the hind-toes set low on the feet,
standing well backwards and flat on the ground, and not merely
touching with the points, or duck-footed.

HarpDNEss OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, short, hard and firm; quills,
very hard and strong.

THE HEN.

Heap: Long, slender, tapering, and very neat in appearance.
Beak, willow or yellow, slightly curved, sharp at the point and stout
at the base.

Comps, WATTLES AND Ear-Lopes: Comb, bright red, single, small
and thin, low in front, evenly serrated and perfectly erect and straight.
Wattles, bright red, small, thin and neatly rounded on the edges. Ear-
lobes, bright red, very small, and close to the face.

Eyes. Red or brown, large, prominent and bright, with a quick
and fiery expression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Long, the feathers very short, giving the neck a slender and
graceful appearance; the hackle a light chestnut, with white in the
center of the feathers.

Back: Of moderate length, flat, broad across the shoulders, and
narrowing to the tail.

COCKER’S MANUAL. 129

Breast aND Bopy: Breast, broad, round, prominent and chest-
nut-red on the front part, and mottled, shading to white on the lower
part. Body, very muscular and firm, broadest at the shoulders, and
tapering to the tail.

Wines: White, slightly penciled with light chestnut-red, of medi-
um length and powerful, the butts and shoulders carried somewhat
high, so as to cause a flat back, the points not drooping, but carried
compactly against the sides; primaries and secondaries, white.

Tait: White, moderate in length, not carried over the back, but
extending backwards, the feathers not spread out, but held neatly to-
gether.

Lecs ; Thighs, white, stout and round, and the feathers short and
close. Shanks, long, bony, clean and tapering, the scales narrow,
smooth and close, to match those of the cock when placed on exhibi-
tion. Feet, broad, flat and thin; toes, long, straight and spreading,
well furnished with strong nails, the hind-toes set low on the feet,
standing well backwards, and not duck-footed.

Harpness or FEATHER: Body-feathers, close, short, hard and firm;
quills, very hard and strong.

CaRRIAGE: Neat, upright, quick and active.

POINTS IN RED PILE GAMES.

Symmetry, ---- sees ae vee eee Pees 0)
Condition, sae ees ee ee Loss 6
Station, eee wie ape nes eee Peete eles, 12
‘Color, -<2s2 Poe) nee: ae ete Seek. 42
Head, ene mes L224 pears 2o= sneer. SB
‘Comb, Wattles and Ear-lobes, meer Bears oe 4
Eyes, Shee oS es S2a5 Seee ae
Neck; =: ooh Pao eee eae pare 4
Back, See Bets eee eset sees sesap. 5
Breast and Body, ie RS, eae pases oes 6
Wings, eke sees seee aaas seas gskey. oq!
Tail, Bes ees Bene bes os Reve 7
Legs, eee pene gene eee ire seee. “0
Feet, i es wees eee eth eae ees 6
Hardness of Feather, ---- seus seas weed eS. 5

4
e}
oO

130 COCKER’S MANUAL,

WHITE PILE GAMES.

DISQUALIFICATIONS.

Adult cocks not dubbed; color of legs or plumage not matching, when shown in
pairs or trios; crooked backs; wry tails; malformed breasts; duck-feet; artificial
coloring; trimming or plucking foul feathers.

THE COCK.

Heap: Long, thin and tapering, and very strong at its junction with
the neck. Beak, yellow, willow or white, slightly curved and strong
at the base.

Coms, WATTLES AND Ear-LoBes: Comb, rich, bright red, in chick-
ens that have not been dubbed, single, small and thin, low in front,
serrated, erect and straight; mature birds to‘ be neatly dubbed, and
free from warty excrescences, small feathers, or ridges on the edges.
Wattles, red, very thin, and smooth in texture. Ear-lobes, red, small,
thin, and smooth in texture.

Eves: Red, large, prominent and bright, with a quick and fearless
expression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Rather long and nicely arched, the hackle mainly white, and
with but faint penciling.

Back: Rather short, flat, broad across the shoulders, and narrowing
to the tail, in color light red; the stern slender and neat, and the
saddle-feathers short and close, mainly white, and with but slight
penciling.

Breast AND Bopy: Breast, white, broad, full and round. Body,
very firm and muscular, not soft or hollow on the sides, broadest at
the shoulders and tapering to the tail.

Wincs: Of medium length, and powerful, the butts and shoulders
slightly raised, as if for a sudden spring ; the remainder not drooping,
but carried compactly against the sides, the points resting under the
saddle feathers; primaries and secondaries, white; wing-coverts, a
rich, bright red, or orange and port-wine color combined.

TaiL: Pure white, of medium length, carried well together and
at a moderate elevation ; sickle-feathers and tail-coverts white and
handsomely curved.

COCKER’S MANUAL, 130

Lecs: Thighs, white, rather long, round, stout, hard and firm, and
placed well forward on the body. Shanks, willow, yellow or white,
and the colors preferred in the ordor in which they are named, rather
long, bony, clean and strong, and standing well and evenly apart, the
scales smooth and close, and the spurs set on low. Feet, broad, thin
and flat; the toes long, straight and spreading, and well furnished
with strong nails; the hind-toes set low on the feet, standing well back-
wards, and flat on the ground, and not merely touching with the points,
or duck-footed.

HarDNESss oF FEATHERS: Body-feathers, short, hard and firm; quills,
very hard and strong.

THE HEN. :

Heap: Long, slendering, tapering, and very neat in appearance.
Beak, yellow, willow or white, in color, slightly curved, sharp at the
point and stout at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND Ear-LoBes: Comb, bright red, single, small
and thin, low in front, evenly serrated, and perfectly erect and straight.
Wattles, bright red, small, thin, and neatly rounded cn the edges.
Ear-lobes, bright red, very small, and close to the face.

Eves: red, large, prominent and bright, with a quick, fiery ex-
pression, end perfectly alike in color.

Neck: White, long, the feathers very short, giving the neck a slen-
der and graceful appearance.

Back: Of moderate length, flat, broad across the shoulders, and
narrowing to the tail; in color white.

BREAST AND Bopy: Breast, distinct chestnut-color, broad, round
and prominent. Body, very firm and muscular, broadest at the shoul-
ders, and tapering to the tail.

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
carried somewhat high, so as to cause a flat back, the points not
drooping, but carried compactly against the sides; the primaries and
secondaries white.

TaiL: Pure white, moderate in length, not carried over the back,
but extending backwards, the feathers not spread out, held neatly
together.

Lecs: Thighs, white, stout and round, and the feathers short and
close. Shanks, long, bony, clean and tapering, the scales narrow,

132 COCKER’S MANUAL.

smooth and close, and to match the cock’s in color when placed on
exhibition, Feet, broad, flat and thin; toes, long straight and
spreading, well furnished with strong nails; the hind-toes set low on
the feet, standing well backwards, and not duck-footed.

HarDNEss OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, close short, hard and firm ;
quills, very hard and strong.

CarRRIAGE; Neat, upright, quick and active.

POINTS IN WHITE PILE GAMES.

Symmetry, ---- a —— 2555 225 Sskey KO
Condition, wee S22 See5 225 e225 6
Station, eee ome == = — S222.; V2
Colof; 2, Sone Sco = aes a 12
Head, a= 26c5 2Eee Sao Seis Seca. “8
Comb, Wattles and Ear-lobes, a 2525 face 4
Eyes, oe SeGey ee S226 seca sabe 5
Neck. (222 = et Sear aoe aoe 4
Back, ene eae Sse ae 2525 e228. §
Breast and Body, ---- Pee BOs eae Poe 6
Wings, pare ehee, sees wane aa eee, (hh
Tail, gras ees phere aes ane ae 7
Legs, wees wees ae eee eae eee! 116
Feet, aes sete Pree i nS Bee Eisele 6
Hardness of Feather, ---- ae ase fais Bee! 35

es : 100

WHITE GAMES.

DISQUALIFICA TIONS.

Adult cocks not dubbed; color of legs or plumage not matching, when shown in
pairs or trios; crooked backs; wry tails; malformed breasts; duck-feet; trimming
or plucking foul feathers.

THE COCK,

Heap: A pure white, long, thin and tapering, and very strong at
its junction with the neck. Beak, yellow or white, slightly curved,
and strong at the base.

COCKER’S MANUAL, 133

Comp, WATTLES AND Ear-Lopes: Comb, bright red, in chickens
that have not been dubbed, single, small and thin, low in front, ser-
rated, erect and straight ; mature birds to be neatly dubbed, and free
from warty excrescences, small feathers, or ridges on the edges. Wat-
tles, bright red, very thin, and smooth in texture, Ear-lobes, brigh}
red, small, thin, and smooth in texture.

Eves: Red, large, prominent and bright, with a quick and fearless
expression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Rather long and nicely arched ; the hackle short and close,
pure white, and free from any tinge of yellow.

Back: Rather short, flat, broad across the shoulders, and narrowing
to the tail; the stern slender and neat, and the saddle-feathers very
short and close, pure white, and free from yellow tinge.

Breast aND Bopy: Breast, pure white, broad, full and round.
Body, very firm and muscular, not soft or hollow on the sides, broad-
est at the shoulders and tapering to the tail, and, in plumage, clear,
pure white.

Wixcs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
slightly raised, as if for a sudden spring ; the remainder not drooping,
but carried compactly against the sides, the points resting under the
saddle-feathers ;. primaries, secondaries and wing-coverts pure white, |
free from yellowish tinge.

Tait: Of medium length, carried well together, and at a moderate
elevation ; sickle-feathers and tail coverts pure, clear white, and hand-
somely curved.

Lecs: Thighs, rather long, round, stout, hard and firm, and placed
well forward on the body. Shanks, yellow or white, rather long,
bony, clean and strong, and standing well and evenly apart; the
scales smooth and close, and the spurs set on low. Feet, broad, thin
and flat; the toes long, straight and spreading, and well furnished
with strong nails; the hind-toes set low on the feet, standing well
backwards and flat on the ground, and not merely touching with the
points, or duck-footed.

Harpness oF FeaTuer:: Body-feathers, short, hard and firm ; quills,
very hard and strong.

134 COCKER’S MANUAL.
THE HEN.

Heap: Long, slender, tapering, and very neat in appearance. .
Beak, yellow or white, slightly curved, sharp at the point, and stout at
the base. :

Coms, WATTLES AND EaR-LOBESS; Comb, single, small and thin,
low in front, evenly serrated, and perfectly erect and straight. Wat-
tles, bright red, small, thin, and neatly rounded on the edges. Ear-
lobes, bright red, very small and close to the face.

Eves: Large, prominent and bright, with a quick, fiery expression,
and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Long, the feathers very short, giving the neck a slender and
graceful appearance, the hackle clear white.

Back: Of moderate length, flat, broad across the shoulders, and
narrowing to the tail.

BREAST AND Bopy: Breast, broad, round and prominent. Body,
very muscular and firm, broadest at the shoulders, and tapering to the
tail, and in plumage a clear, pure white throughout.

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
carried somewhat high, so as to cause a flat back, the points not
drooping, but carried compactly against the sides ; primaries second-
aries and coverts all pure white. :

TaiL: Clear white, moderate in length, not carried over the back,
but extending backwards, the feathers not spread out, but held neatly
together.

Lecs: Thighs, stout and round, and the feathers short and close.
Shanks: yellow or white, long, bony, clean and tapering, the scales
narrow, smooth and close, and to match the cock’s in color when
placed on exhibition. Feet, broad, flat and thin; toes, long, straight
and spreading, and well furnished with strong nails; the hind-toes set
low on the feet, standing well backwards, and not duck-footed.

HarbNEss OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, close, short, hard and firm;
quills, very hard and strong.

CarRIAGE; Neat, upright, quick and active.

POINTS IN WHITE GAMES.
Symmetry, ---- oes, ae ae

eeu S252. -i00
Condition, S25 sae S503 Secs, e2ee 6
Station, =522 wees eer Sees euse See: SiS

COCKER’S MANUAL.

al
WwW
on

Color, -.-- ede ne oe ZoEe
Head, Sess ees, oe: a2 Zao Sues
Comb, Wattles and Ear-lobes, eres pare Seek
Eyes, mee ace Pee See oes Baran
Neck, ---- mae es Loss Seis eae) Boek
Back, ioce ——— 225 uss Some Sei
Breast and Body, ---- sede S2e5 Ses err
Wings, caa2 Boe ens ore as esee
Tail, eens Seer 22S fee ace S522
Legs, ooh eens sisi aaieg Bete sate
Feet, aoe meee ae Se0k Brine 2o28
Hardness of Feather, ---- ree waiad ens sess

aAnAnNT A AN AN BP COON

el
°
°

BLACK GAMES.

DISQUALIFIOA TIONS.

Adult cocks not dubbed; color of legs or plumage not matching, when shown in
pairs or trios; crooked backs; wry tails; malformed breasts; ducx-feet; any artifi-
cial coloring; trimming or plucking foul feathers.

THE COCK,

Heap: Rich, deep black, long, thin and tapering, and very strong
at its junction with the neck. Beak, olive or bronzy-black, slightly
curved, and strong at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND Ear-LoBes: Comb, in chickens that have not
been dubbed, bright red, single, small and thin, low in front, serrated,
erect and straight ; mature birds to be neatly dubbed, and free from
warty excrescences, small feathers, or ridges on the edges. Wattles,
bright red, very thin, and smooth in texture. Ear-lobes, bright red,
small, thin, and smooth in texture.

Eves: Black or brown, large, prominent and bright, with a quick
and fearless expression, and perfectly alike in color.

136 COCKER’S MANUAL.

Neck: Rather long and nicely arched ; the hackle short and close.
and rich metallic black in color.

Back: Rather short, flat, broad across the shoulders, and narrow-
ing to the tail; the stern slender and neat, the saddle-feathers very
short and close, and a rich, lustrous black,

BREAST AND Bopy: Breast, deep black, broad and full. Body, very
firm and muscular, not soft or hollow on the sides, broadest at the
shoulders, and tapering to the tail; plumage throughout a rich, deep
black.

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
slightly raised, as if for a sudden spring ; the remainder not drooping,
but carried compactly against the sides, the points resting under the
saddle-feathers.

Tait: Of medium length, carried well together and at a moderate
elevation ; sickle-feathers and tail-coverts a rich, glossy, or metallic
black.

LeEcs : Thighs, deep black, rather long, round, stout, hard and
firm, and placed well forward on the body. Shanks, dark olive,
leaden-black, or bronzy-black, rather long, bony, clean and strong,
and standing well and evenly apart, the scales smooth and close, and
the spurs set on low. Feet, broad, thin and flat; the toes long,
straight and spreading, and well furnished with strong nails; the hind-
toes set low on the feet, standing well backwards, and flat on the
ground, and not merely touching with the points, or duck-footed.

HARDNESS OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, short, hard and firm; quills,
very hard and strong.

THE HEN.

Heap: Long, slender, tapering, and very neat in appearance,
Beak, dark olive or bronzy-black, slightly curved, sharp at the point
and stout at the base.

Comp, WatTLes AND Ear-Lopes: Comb, single, small and thin,
low in front, evenly serrated, and perfectly erect and straight. Wat-
tles, bright red, small, thin, and neatly rounded on the edges. Ear-
lobes, bright red, very small and close-to the face.

Eyes: Black or brown, large, prominent and bright, with a quick,
flery expression, and perfectly alike in color.

COCKER’S MANUAL. 137

Neck: Long, the feathers very short, giving the neck a slender
and graceful appearance.

Back: Of moderate length, flat, broad across the shoulders, aud
narrowing to the tail, and, in color, a rich, lustrous black.

Breast AND Bopy: Breast, broad, round and prominent. Body,
very firm and muscular, broadest at the shoulders and tapering to the
tail, and the plumage throughout a rich, glossy black,

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders.
carried somewhat high, so as to cause a flat back, the points not
drooping but carried compactly against the sides; primaries and sec-
ondaries, deep black ; wing-coverts a rich, glossy black.

TaiL: Moderate in length, not carried over the back, but extending
backwards, the feathers not spread out, but held neatly together, and
a pure, deep black in color.

Lecs: Thighs, stout and round, and the feathers short and close.
Shanks, dark olive or leaden black, long, bony, clean and tapering,
the scales narrow, smooth and close, and to match the cock in color
when placed on exhibition. Feet, broad, flat and thin; toes, long,
straight and spreading, well furnished with strong nails; the hind-
toes set low on the feet, standing well backwards, and not duck-footed.

HARDNESS OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, close, short, hard and firm ;
quills, very hard and strong.

CarriaGE: Neat, upright, quick and active.

POINTS IN BLACK GAMES,

Symmetry, —--- 2222 te pa Bese seen TO
Condition, eae eS e225 eee Sees &
Station, 25 aoe, oy 2ees ae sheet De
Color, ---- ere eae Bees aes ets 12
Head, ee sles Gas eee Bees eat, Ss
Comb, Wattles and Ear-lobes, ae eer’ ae 4
Eyes, wane —— ane a See eck Ep
Neck, ---- oboe, eek. eee ews wees 4
Back, wees ee —— eve ase eee ih
Breast and Body, — aise ——— a 6
Wings, sone —_ bone -~-- Sees eke aie
Tail, eens wes = eece Se Sus 7
Legs, mice ite ee sacs pees “sea, ~&

To

138 COCKER’S MANUAL.

Feet, es hee ees 255 ensats sues 6
Hardness of Feather, ---- Boey att ae sens 5
Bele)

BLUE GAMES.

DISQUALIFICA TIONS.

Adult cocks not dubbed, color oflegs or plumage not matching, when shown in
pairs or trios; crooked backs; wry tails; malformed breasts; duck-feet; any arti-
ficial coloring; trimming or plucking foul feathers.

THE COCK.

Heap: Very dark blue, shaded with black, long, thin and tapering,
and very strong at its junction with the neck. Beak, black or brown-
ish-black, slightly curved, and strong at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND Ear-LoBES: Comb, in chickens that have not
been dubbed, dark red or purple, single, small and thin, low in front,
serrated, erect and straight ; mature birds to be neatly dubbed, and
free from warty excrescences, small feathers, or ridges on the edges,
Wattles, dark red, very thin, and smooth in texture. Ear-lobes, dark
red or purple, thin, and smooth in texture.

Eves: Black, large, prominent and bright, with a quick and fear-
less expression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Blue, shaded with black, rather long and nicely arched ; the
hackle short and close. ’

Back: Dark blue, rather short, flat, broad across the shoulders, and
narrowing to the tail; the stern slender and neat, the saddle-feath-
ers blue, tinged with golden-red or yellow, and very short and close.

Breast AND Bopy: Breast, broad, full and round. Body, very firm
and muscular, not soft or hollow on the sides, broadest at the shoul-
ders, and tapering to the tail, and in color of plumage deep blue
throughout.

Wines: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
slightly raised, as if for a sudden spring ; the remainder not drooping,

COCKER’S MANUAL. 139

but carried compactly against the sides, the points resting under the
saddle-feathers ; primaries and secondaries, dark blue; wing-coverts,
blue, tinged with golden-red or yellow.

Tait: Dark blue, of medium length, carried well together and at a
moderate elevation ; tail-coverts nicely curved, and deep blue in color.

Lecs: Thighs, rather long, round, stout, hard and firm, and placed
well forward on the body. Shanks, blue-black or olive, rather long,
bony, clean and strong, and standing well and evenly apart, the scales
smooth and close, and the spurs set on low. Feet, broad, thin and
flat; the toes long, straight and spreading, and well furnished with
strong nails; the hind-toes set low on the feet, standing well back-
wards, and flat on the ground, and not merely touching with the
points, or duck-footed. :

HarDNEss OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, short, hard and firm ; quills,
very hard and strong.

THE HEN.

Heap: Very dark blue, shaded with black, long, slender, tapering,
and very neat in appearance. Beak, black or brownish-black, slightly
curved, sharp at the point and stout at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND Ear-Lopes: Comb, dark red or purple, single,
small and thin, low in front, evenly serrated, and perfectly erect and
straight. Wattles, dark red, small, thin, and neatly rounded on the
edges. Ear-lobes, dark red, very small and close to the face.

Eyes: Black, large, prominent and bright, with a quick, fiery ex-
pression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Blue, shaded with black, long, the feathers very short, giving
the neck a slender and graceful appearance.

Back: Dark blue, of moderate length, flat, broad across the shoul-
ders, and narrowing to the tail.

BREAST AND Bopy: Breast, broad, round, prominent. Body, very
firm and muscular, broadest at the shoulders, and tapering to the tail;
the plumage throughout a rich, dark blue.

-Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
carried somewhat high, so as to cause a flat back, the points not
drooping, but carried compactly against the sides; primaries and
secondaries, dark blue; wing-coverts, dark blue, bordering on black,

140 COCKER’S MANUAL.

Tait: Moderate in length, dark blue, not carried over the back, but
extending backwards, the feathers not spread out, but held neatly to-
gether; the tail-coverts dark blue, bordering on black.

Lecs ; Thighs, dark blue, stout and round, and the feathers short
and close. Shanks, blue-black or olive, long, bony, clean and taper-
ing, the scales narrow, smooth and close, and to match the cock’s in
color when placed on exhibition. Feet, broad, flat and thin; toes,
long, straight and spreading, well furnished with strong nails, the
hind-toes set low on the feet, standing well backwards, and not duck-
footed.

Harpness OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, close, short, hard and firm;
quills, very hard and strong.

CarriaGE: Neat, upright, quick and active.

POINTS IN BLUE GAMES.

Symmetry, ---- seek wees —— ss Sees. 6
Condition, ia, Soe 2225 eres Stes 6
Station, Ses SoS =a ere 2e52 = sows G2
Colom cess eas Sa 2o26 25s5 Sees 12
Head, bes eee memes SH85 eae Base, «8
Comb, Wattles and Ear-lobes, pean ee Eos 4
Eyes, sens eget see aa 2e08 wees. 35
Neck: 22s ee ae Snes Sek vag 4
Back, meee gece cers gate sees eas, 65
Breast and Body, prints eee hig ees 6
Wings, = ber ete Peis ees casa, 4
Tail, sues wes sents wince eae eee 7
Legs, wane ae Joes peeve eae esse. 16
Feet, aoe eset eens ae eee wiles 6
Hardness of Feather, ---- ders ae peeies See Se

aT 100

GRAY GAMES.

DISQUALIFICA TIONS.

Adult cocks not dubbed; color of legs or plumage not matching, when shown in
pairs or trios; crooked backs; wry tails; malformed breasts; duck-feet; any artifi-
cial coloring; trimming or plucking foul feathers.

COCKER’S MANUAL. 141

THE COCK.

Heap: Silvery-gray, long, thin and tapering, and very strong at its
junction with the neck. Beak, dark willow or horn-color, slightly
curved, and strong at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND Ear-LOBES: Comb, in chickens that have not
been dubbed, single small, and thin, low in front, serrated, erect and
straight ; mature birds to be neatly dubbed, and free from warty ex-
crescences, small feathers, or ridges, on the edges. Wattles, red or
purple, very thin and smooth in texture. Ear-lobes, dark red or pur-
ple, small, thin, and smooth in texture.

Eyes: Deep bay or brown, large, prominent and bright, with a
quick and fearless expression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Rather long and nicely arched, the hackle short and close,
and, in color, silvery-gray.

Back: Silvery-gray, rather short, flat, broad across the shoulders,
and narrowing to the tail; the stern slender and neat, and the sad-
dle-feathers very short and close, and gray in color.

BREAST AND Bopy: Breast, broad, full, and round ; in color, black;
the shafts of feathers silvery-gray, the color growing darker as it ap-
proaches the lower part of the thighs. Body, very firm and muscular,
not soft or hollow on the sides, broadest at the shoulders and tapering
to the tail. i

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
slightly raised, as if for a sudden spring ; the remainder not drooping,
but carried compactly against the sides, the points resting under the
saddle-feathers; primaries, dusky-black; secondaries, black, with
metallic lustre towards the ends of the feathers; wing-butts, black or
dark gray ; wing-bows, silvery-gray ; wing-coverts, rich, glossy black.

TarL: Black, of medium length, carried well together, and at a
moderate elevation.

Lecs: Thighs, dusky-black, rather long, round, stout, hard and -
firm, and placed well forward on the body. Shanks, dusky-willow
or bronzy-black, rather long, bony, clean and strong, and standing
well and evenly apart, the scales smooth and close, and the spurs set
on low. Feet, broad, thin and flat; the toes long, straight and
spreading, and well furnished with strong nails; the hind-toes set
low on the feet, standing well backwards and flat on the ground,
and not merely touching with the points, or duck-footed.

142 COCKER’S MANUAL.

Harness OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, short, hard and firm ; quills,
very hard and strong.

THE HEN.

Heap: Dusky-gray, long, slender, tapering, and very neat in ap-
pearance. Beak, dark willow or bronzy-black, slightly curved, sharp
at the point and stout at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND Ear-LoBES: Comb, single, small and thin,
low in front, evenly serrated and perfectly erect and straight ; color,
dark red or purple. Wattles, red, purple, small, thin and neatly rounded
on the edges. Ear-lobes, dark red or purple, very small, and close to
the face.

Eyes: Deep bay or brown, large, prominent and bright, with a
quick, fiery expression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Silvery-gray, striped with black, long, the feathers very
short, giving the neck a slender and graceful appearance.

Back: Very dark gray, of moderate length, flat, broad across the
shoulders, and narrowing to the tail.

Breast AND Bopy: Breast, broad, round and prominent. Body,
very firm and muscular, broadest at the shoulders, and tapering to the
tail.

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
carried somewhat high, so as to cause a flat back, the points not
drooping, but carried compactly against the sides.

Tait: Black, moderate in length, not carried over the back, but
extending backwards, the feathers not spread out, held neatly to-
gether.

Lecs: Thighs, very dark, stout and round, and the feathers short
and close. Shanks, dark willow, approaching black, long, bony, clean
and tapering, the scales narrow, smooth and close, and to match the
cock’s in color when placed on exhibition. Feet, broad, flat and
thin; toes, long straight and spreading, well furnished with strong
nails ; the hind-toes set low on the feet, standing well backwards, and
not duck-footed.

HarDNESS OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, close short, hard and firm 3,
quills, very hard and strong.

CaRRIAGE; Neat, upright, quick and active.

COCKER’S MAN}: AL 143

POINTS IN GRAY GAMES.

Symmetry, ---- ee aan ects Boe seie 0
Condition, ites EES mares ee sige 6
Station, eee eee ene ee aoe oaiaer; TE
Color, ---- nes Ces. ae foe poly ae ee 12
Head, eee eee AEN eR ee isa wes SSoa, <5
Comb, Wattles and Ear-lobes, els eres ee 4
Eyes, sans aoe aoe cee See Bitten, C5
Neck; cscs modes seen peae epee Ei 4
Back, ee ete eee aoe oe bites OF
Breast and Body, ---- eae See pee eer 6
Wings, ae eae Sues eee eee sees Sh
Fail, Rees noes pares oie Meet a 7
Legs, Soe. Jace 22a eee wee sem 6
Feet, fek, ace rae ee Bates Semis 6
Hardness of Feather, ---- Boey See pores sage: 5

100

SPANGLED GAMES.

DISQUALIFICATIONS.

Adult cocks not dubbed; color of legs or plumage not matching, when shown in
pairs or trios; crooked backs; wry tails; malformed breasts; duck-feet; trimming
or plucking foul feathers.

THE COCK.

Heap: Long, thin and tapering, and very strong at its junction
with the neck. Beak, yellow, willow or bronzy-black, slightly curved,
and strong at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND EAR-LOBES: Comb, in chickens that have not
been dubbed, single, small and thin, low in front, serrated, erect and
straight ; mature birds to be neatly dubbed, and tree from warty ex-
crescences, small feathers, or ridges on the edges. Wattles, red, very
thin, and smooth in texture. Ear-lobes, red, small, thin, and smooth
in texture.

44 COCKER’S MANUAL.

Eves: Red, bay or dark, large, prominent and bright, with a quick
and fearless expression, and perfectly alike in color.

Neck: Rather long and nicely arched ; the hackle short and close,
and, in colors, either black and white, red and white, blue and white,
buff and white, or any clearly defined combination.

Back: Rather short, flat, broad across the shoulders, and narrowing
to the tail; the stern slender and neat, and the saddle-feathers very
short and close, and of any well-defined combination of spangles.

Breast AND Bopy: Breast, broad, full, round, and well spangled.
Body, very firm and muscular, not soft or hollow on the sides, broad-
est at the shoulders and tapering to the tail; the general plumage be-
ing black and white, red and white, blue and white, buff and white, or
any other clearly defined and duly fixed combination of colors.

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
slightly raised, as if for a sudden spring ; the remainder not drooping,
but carried compactly against the sides, the points resting under the
saddle-feathers.

TaiL: Of medium length, carried well together, and at a moderate
elevation ; tail-coverts nicely curved.

Lecs: Thighs, rather long, round, stout, hard and firm, and placed
well forward on the body. Shanks, yellow, willow, olive or bronzy-
black, rather long, bony, clean’ and strong, and standing well and
evenly apart; the scales smooth and close, and the spurs set on low.
Feet, broad, thin and flat; the toes long, straight and spreading, and
well furnished with strong nails; the hind-toes set low on the feet,
standing well backwards and flat on the ground, and not merely touch-
ing with the points, or duck-footed.

HARDNESS OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, short, hard and firm ; quills,
very hard and strong.

THE HEN.

Heap: Long, slender, tapering, and very neat in appearance.
Beak, yellow, willow, olive or bronzy-black, slightly curved, sharp at
the point, and stout at the base.

Comp, WATTLES AND Ear-LoBges; Comb, single, small and thin,
low in front, evenly serrated, and perfectly erect and straight. Wat-
tles, red, small, thin, and neatly rounded on the edges. LEar-lobes,
red, very small and close to the face.

COCKER’S MANUAL. 145

Eyes: Red, bay or dark, large, prominent and bright, with a quick, :
fiery expression, and perfectly alike in color.

NeEcK: Long, the feathers very short, giving the neck a slender and
graceful appearance ; the plumage spangled, black and white, red and

white, blue and white, buff and white, or any other well-defined com-
bination.

Back: Of moderate length, flat, broad across the shoulders, and
narrowing to the tail.

Breast AND Bopy: Breast, spangled, broad, round and prominent.
Body, very muscular and firm, broadest at the shoulders, and tapering
to the tail, the plumage throughout handsomely spangled.

Wincs: Of medium length and powerful, the butts and shoulders
carried somewhat high, so as to cause a flat back, the points not
drooping, but carried compactly against the sides.

Tait: Moderate in length, not carried over the back, but extend-
ing backwards, the feathers not spread out, but held neatly together.

Lrecs: Thighs, stout and round, and the feathers short and close.
Shanks: yellow, willow, olive or bronzy-black, long, bony, clean and
tapering, the scales narrow, smooth and close, and to match the
cock’s in color when placed on exhibition. Feet, broad, flat and thin ;
toes, long, straight and spreading, and well furnished with strong
nails; the hind-toes set low on the feet, standing well backwards, and
not duck-footed.

HarDNESS OF FEATHER: Body-feathers, close, short, hard and firm;
quills, very hard and strong.

CarriaGE; Neat, upright, quick and active.

POINTS IN SPANGLED GAMES.

Symmetry, ---- = sete Snee =e Sach 6
Condition, pears Soee Sere Bus Soe 6
Station, Se0s eee ae Soe ecee Boos. 2
Color, ---- Ssce gals Sees Sone pone 12
Head, Seo8 ogee esse oes ae sess. 38
Comb, Wattles and Ear-lobes, eee Sess esse 4
Eyes, Sees a2c2 secs ates aha See) 5
Necks: sie sete Js53 nese re == 4
Back, esis S225 es ae Secs Sea) 8
Breast and Body, ---- elke S225 esss secu 6
Wings, enen sos eas eeee ee saee! «@

146

Tail, ehas aes
Legs, ids
Feet, eee ee
Hardness of Feather,

COCKER’S MANUAL.

annns

147

THE POULTRY WORLD,

HARTFORD, CONN.

H.EH. STODDARD, - - - BHDITOR.

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148

GAME FOWLS

FOR SALE,

Of the following well-known varieties :

Black Reds, Virginia Grays. Brown Reds,
Tartars, Rattlers, Cencers,
Duckwings.

Parties ordering fowls of me will receive nothing but choice, healthy
birds. I can also furnish other strains of Games not above mentioned.
Fowls carefully boxed and shipped on receipt of price.

NO FOWLS SHNT C.O.D.

Send stamp for circular and prices. Address,

WM. JAS. HEALEY, Mineral Point, Wis.

HARRY Ik... W IEILS 1H,
YORK, PENNSYLVANIA,

Breeder and Shipper of

SAME Fo wis,

Yellow Duckwing, Black-Breasted Reds, Stonefence, etc., etc.
Send for Prices.

LOUIS SENDKER,

Lock Box 643, PARKER CITY, PA.

Importer and Breeder of

Pili GAME FOV Ls.

Warranted Dead Game or money refunded.

Eggs and Chicks in season. Cocks and Hens at any time. Send
stamp for Circulars and Prices.

149

IL. JE. SINSAIB AU Grill,

SYRACUSE, NEBRASEA,

Breeder and Shipper of Superior

VIEW OF THE YOUNG MOHAWK POULTRY YARDS.

Light Brahmas, Dark Brahmas, Partridge Cochins,
Plymouth Rock, Gold-Laced Sebright Bantams,
Imperial Pekin Ducks.

I have about 400 Chicks of the above varieties, and J will sell Choice Specimens for
preeding or exhibitions after September Ist, at reasonable prices, rite for just
what you want. All letters and postal cards cheerfully anwered,

150

American Poultry Journal

And Record.

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Oona
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151

THE AMERICAN

PONTE ICY Yar),

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Having greatly increased my stock of Games, I can now offer to Fan-
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Nearly all the Leading Varieties.

Also, a number of Crossed Fowl, bred especially for the Pit.

Persons can have fowls combining beauty with strength, courage
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P. O. Box, No. 974. Battle Creek, Mich.

153

GAMES FOR SALE,
From Allen’s Celebrated

Black-Red, Brown-Red & Duckhwing Games.

23 PAIRS of my Games were pronounced the best lot ever seen on
exhibition, as exhibited by one exhibitor, at the Centennial. They
were awarded the

CENTENNIAL GRAND MEDAL,

Also were recommended the GOLD MEDAL, by the International
Judge, TWO SILVER, and FIVE BRONZE, for being very superior
specimens of the varieties to which they belong. They were exhibit-
ed six times last season and received

81 First Premiums, 22 Third Premiums,
48 Second Premiums, 1 Fourth Premium.

At the Provincial Exhibition this season, they received 7 First and 2
Second Premiums.

By this, judge of their merit, as they are only exhibited at first-class
shows.

Game Fowl Chicks, at from $10 to $25 each.
Eggs in Season, Setting, eleven eggs, $6.
Game Bantam’s, Setting, eleven eggs, $4.

Terms—Cash. Parties ordering will please note this, as no order
will be filled until terms are complied with.

Address,
IDANIIJEIL ATLILIEN,
Enclose stamp for answer. js Galt, Ontario, Canada.

(See page 35 for illustration of Duckwing Games.)

1S4

1878..——"' NOT FOR ITSELF, BUT FOR ALL.’’——1878,

NEW SERIES.

PROSPrPH optus

Familiar Science
and Fanciers’ Journal.

(Established 1373.)
An Illustrated Magazine covering departments as follows:

EDITORIAL, wherein our views upon questions and issues concerning, or of inter-
eet 2. our readers will be given candidly and freely, uninfluenced by clique or

CORRESPONDENCE, —the department of our subscribers—wherein their experien-
ces may be exchanged, different theories advanced and discussed, and the re-
sults of their research and experiments be recorded. The life of a faney isin its
members being acquainted and familiarized with each other, so this department

must recommend itself to all.

THE NATURALIST will be devoted more especially to Ornithology, Botany and
Oology, studies now receiving almost universal attention. While & certain re-
- gard must be had for scientific names and technical phrases to insure accuracy,
still our aim in this department will be to treat these auuects in a familiar man-
ner that shall be acceptable to the general readers as well as the advanced stu-

dent.

HOME AND ITS PETS will treat of the Window Garden, the Aquarium, the Avia-
ry, and the many Pets children fancy. It willaim to cover all that combine to
make “‘home’’ a center of interest, something more than a sheltering roof. A
feature in this department will also be the Domestic column, a collection of old,
varied, and tested recipes.

POULTRY AND PIGEONS. In this department, we intend “Seasonable Hints” to
be the concentration of a volume of timely information. Besides this we shall
furnish the latest news from all quarters, with a careful treatment of all thedries
and experiments that are engaging popular attention.

THE EXCHANGE AND MART, our Advertising Supplement, will be all it has
been in the past, We shall endeavor to keep it free from dishonest parties. The
Exchange and Want columns, that have proved so acceptable during the hard
Leys and haye done much to fainiliarize fanciers with each other, will be con-

tin
OUR ast OF on ee ee will include the names of William Wood, M. D.,

Prof. A. N. Raub, Wm. E. Flower, “Huon,” Thos. G. Gentry, Harry A. Slocum)
E. A. Samuels, a M. Firor, Prof. G. O, Brown, Dr. A. M. Dickie, “Barb,” Jas. M.
McCann, “ P. B., ” Rev. W. G. Todd, H. Woodward, Edw. Harris, Andrew Su den,
A. E. ‘Abbott, Prof, Horsford, “W., vOL. Maynard, “Peter Peppercorn,” P. Welch,
“Pacifie’” “Wash hening,”” Charles Wylls, Fred T. "Jencks, John Van Opstal, Geo.
M. Twitebell, Wm. T. Rogers, Henry Erdman, artist.

Receiving regularly, besides the leading Americen periodicals, the best of the Ger-
man, French and English devoted to our specialties, we are enabled to have our se-
lections applicable and of the higest order.

With the Fifth Volume, the Journal will be enlarged and improved. Its field is
the broad one of fancies, hobbies. Devoted to no one in particular, it will give pre-
cedence to that which for the time being most engages the popular mind. Thanking

‘pur patrons for the generous support of the past, we ask its continuance. We direct
the attention ofall fanciers, whatever may be their hobby, to the Journal as a paper
giving the latest and best information, one out-spoken and independent, a paper
untrammeled by individual interest, conducted ‘Not for itself, but for all.”

JOSEPH M. WADE, Springfield, Mass.

Terms of Subscription, pre-paid by mail, $1.50 per annum. Single copies, 15 cents.
General Advertising Rates, 25 cents per line, xchanges and Wants, four lines, or
forty words, 23 cents each insertion.

155

GIR WLAN ROUP PILES.

fe)
THE STANDARD SPECIFIC REMEDY FOR

TOUTE,

OR COMMON FOWL AILS.

°

THE GERMAN ROUP PILLS (Kunkel’s Original Recipe), have
deservedly acquired a world-wide reputation, through their extra-
ordinary

Efficacy, Adaptedness, Operative and Restorative
Qualities,

where they are judiciously administered to ordinary sick fowls. The
combination of Health-giving Ingredients embodied in the peculiar
prescription from which the universally approved and promptly effect-
ive German Roup Pills are manufactured, has proved indeed a won-
drously successful and reliable discovery, that in thousands of instan-
ces has been voluntarily proclaimed by prominent and experienced
Fowl Fanciers, Breeders, Amateurs, Dealers and Poulterers, in every
section of the United States and the Canadas, to be for a general fowl
medicine

UNRIVALED, AS WELL AS ALTOGETHER UNEXCELABLE,

After five years of steady success, the subscriber has become pro-
prietor of the now celebrated German Roup Pills, and they will be
manufactured under his supervision hereafter, at Hartford, Conn.

AGENTS ARE NOW WANTLTLD

in good locations, for the sale of these reliable Roup Pills. Liberal
discount, at wholesale.

Sample Boxes mailed, post-paid, to any address, for 50 cents.

Larger sized boxes (containing more than double the quantity), for
g1.oo. For explanatory circulars, testimonials, etc., address

H. H. STODDARD,
¢¢ Pouttry W oRLD,”’ HARTFORD, CONN.

faces eg ee