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DE Paes
ALBERT R. MANN
LIBRARY
NEw YorK STATE COLLEGES
OF
AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS
AT
CORNELL UNIVERSITY
EVERETT FRANKLIN PHILLIPS
BEEKEEPING LIBRARY
Cornell University
Library
The original of this book is in
the Cornell University Library.
There are no known copyright restrictions in
the United States on the use of the text.
http://www.archive.org/details/cu381924003513706
NEWLY WRITTEN TITROUGHOUT,
MYSTERIES
OF
BHEH-KEHEPING
EXPLAINED.
CONTAINING THE RESULT
oF
THIRTY-FIVE YEARs’ EXPERIENOE, AND DIREOTIONS FOR USING THE MOV=-
ABLE COMB AND BOX-HIVE, TOGETHER WITH THE MOST APPROVED
METHODS OF PROPAGATING THE ITALIAN BEE,
BY
M. QUINBY,
PRACTICAL BEE-KEEPER.
NEW STEREOTYPED AND ILLUSTRATED EDITION.
NEW-YORK :
ORANGE JUDD & COMPANY.
1866.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1865, by
M. QUINBY,
in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of the United States for the
Southern District of New-York.
CONTENTS.
——~+ e+.
CHAPTER LIL.
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS it
Description of yucen. 7
Age of queen. ..... 18
19
19
CHAPTER II
PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.—22
Innperfectly understood..............+. R
When they begin te rear brood........ 22
How small colonies begin aoe BO
Different i in large families 2 23
24
‘When the eggs hatch
Rough treatment
Time before the young bee commences
labor..
Time from the egg to mature queen...
When drones are reared....
TIMOR speceripats toe ee Sistine saytucdardenuntss * 83
When queens and drones are destroy-
ed before swarming... od
Queen leaves with the first Swarm.. .. 35
What becomes of the bees when no
SWATM issueS...... oo cee eee eee ee 35
When a young queen takes the place
Of ThE O1d ONG) csncseriemenraawecnaes
When large numb
Short cells usually taken for rearing MOAN cs ssshvsiatescauienardatshacsona 35
queens.... . Theory relative to drones. . 36
When the queen leaves to meet the Mr, Wagner's Theory..... . 39
ATONE. :c2cccisisis sg ais larcla wiNonaiepMeaghted dehna ge 29 Mr. Harbison’s Theory........ 40
Number of eggs that a queen will lay. 30
CHAPTER III
HIVES.—46
Satisfaction in having no patent ..... 4G Suspended hive.. ks
No difficulty in obtaining certificates Inclined bottom “poara.
and premiums ...,....... Dividing hive..........
Hives furnished for trial. Changeable hive......
Necessities of the bees..
Great discovery for patentvenders,
Principles of different hives......
Chamber hive ..............
Ventilating hive....... r5
Moth proof hive.
Non-Swarmer.
Common box htve..
Iv CONTENTS,
Pr per size of bive........0...ccseeeeuee 58 Movable comb l-ive.......
Directions for making box hive...,.,.. 61 | Some of its advantages...
Top of hive not fastened....... sue Be Movable comb hive as use:
Best surplus boxes, ........
Directions for making boxes. Directions for making..
Straw hive for wintering bees. . B
Observatory hive......... sereseeenscece UO
CHAPTER LY.
BEE PASTURAGE.—%6
Substitute for pollen 216) Buckwheat. oicsccsovencascagewesmnvesive 89
Substitute for honey.... . 77 Do bees injure the grain ?..... wien BD.
Manner of packing pollen.. . 7 Bees necessary to insure a crop. - 90
Flowers that yield first pollen 218 Two kinds of pollen stored in one cell 92
First honey...............+ . 79 No test of the presence of a queen..... 93
Fruit flowers important . 7 Bee-breadseldom packed in drone cells 94
ted raspberry a favorit -.. 80 Manner of discharging pollen, wee OF
Honey from red Clover...........0..00ee 80 Discharging honey....... ais draorerationware’s 94
Catnip one of the best honey yiclding Some cells contain honey for daily use 95
Combs constructed as needed.......... 96
Best season for honey..... ......2s.00e 96
How many stocks may be kept. 7
ones Principal sources of honey...... 9
Honey-dew....... .... oe Distance a bee will go for honey.......100
Unusual secretion ..
CHAPTER V.
THE APIARY.—100
Location Best cover - -107
Location marked.... . . 102 Bee-house unprofitable és 107
Should not be moved. -102. Some will have them .... ...... 107
Space between stands. -103 Hives should be of different colors. ...107
Small mattersiss wisevscased sessaasavde 103 Replacing queens,.
Cheap stand ..ccsnasumseriartieare oociesce. 10! Several bee-houses.......
Disadvantage of standing too high... .105
CHAPTER VL
ROBBING.—113
eeerer 113“ First indications...............
1145 Remedies.....
115 Equalization,
-16 Battles
Not understood .....
Difficulty in deciding..
Weak colonies in danger, ....
When to look out for robbers...
CHAPTER VIL
FEEDING, —122
Manner of feeding
Object in feeding...
. 126
+00 127
Destitute colonies sometimes desert...121 Promiscuous feeding unprofttable..... 129
When they must be fed...............0. 124
CONTENTS, Vv
CHAPTER VIII
DESTRUCTION OF THE MOTH WORM.—120
Bome in best stocks.
Fear of the bee......
How destroyed...........
CHAPTER IX.
PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES.—135
Must not be put on too early.......... 135
Making holes after the hive is full .. .187
Boxes may be too casy of access ....133
A better way.
Advantage of glags- boxes.
When to take off...... ....
Moth proof hive not made........ ..... 184
Box for Wren.......6:,:0ceeeeee eer +185
How to get rid of the bees 141
Bees not disposed to ating. .
To secure honey from worms,
The way the worms get in..
Remedy
CHAPTER X
SWARMING.—146
Knowledge necessary...
When swarming commences.
Indications ..........0.5
Care in examining hives.
Preparations for swarming
When swarms issue
Which bees issue.......
The old queen leaves
Hives should be ready.......
Immediate indications of a swarm
Swarm clusters
How to do it ee
All should be made to ente
Carry to the stand.........
Pat in movable comb hiye.
Shade important...
Clustering bushes
Loss by flight....
Nothing but bees necessary in a hive. .163
Do they select a home before swarm-
MDG? wicieade caincmsasien Pentraiestams awe wares 164
How far will they go > cbicmanuaptenen aes 164
One first swarm has bees enough....... 165
How to keep separate
Cannot be stopped when parts are on
+o 166
First swarms choose good weather....17
Exceptions........ .. sorgbansunrne gets
After-swarms.
Their size
When expected
Piping of the Queen .
Variation in time of issuing
How after-swarms issue..
Number of queens..............
Do not always choose good weather. 179
Go farther before alighting,............ 179
Propriety of returning........... -. 180
Moth worm troubles small colonies. 181
CHAPTER XI
ARTIFICIAL SWARMS,—185
Perplexities........
Work well...
Do it in season
First experience
How to make artificial swarms.
Manner of placing the stands ‘
Queen-cell, to introduce.... .......
Operations with movable combs easy.191
One division will make drone comb. ..191
Too many drone combs for profit.
Honey made in boxes in the hive......
Boxes transferred and finished on an-
VI CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XII
LOSS OF QUEENS.—195
When lost by swarms..
Drone-comb......
Speculations ....
Disputed question........
A multitude of drones needed
When the loss occurs..... Bei
Time of leaving varies.. ....
Indication of los3
Mark date of swarm.
Other remedics.... .......06 ri
Indications of loss in early spring.....203
CHAPTER XIIL
PRUNING.—205
+205
+6205
Difficulty in driving in cool weather. ..207
Seldom necessary.
Best time.
Little risk of stings
Frequent pruning not recommended. .209
CHAPTER XIV.
DISEASED BROOD.—210
What is it?....... ciapeinecneays 210
Italians less affected 210
Where found.
When first discovered....
Description....... age
Remedies attempted . ...
Supposed cause...
How it spreads.
Examination...
Assumed knowledge ...
CHAPTER XV.
ANGER OF BEES.—221
Causes of irritability
How they make an attack.....
Never irritable when after Honey.
Smoker described.. 2
Italians less docile. . aa
Protection....... assay.
Does its los: prove fatal 2 ?
Nemedies for stings..... ae
CHAPTER XVL
ENEMIES OF BEES.—228
Rats and mice............ Giddielassie) .
A word for King-bird,....
Chickens will eat drones.
Cat-bird acqaltted..
Black wasp.. ....
Ants—a word in their favor
ae
Both:
Worms sometimes work in centre of
COMD ovsanedaemeaiiora sacri ier 5 237
Bees mutilated by webs. 30
Bees fastened in the cells 20 B38
Different appearance in old stocks. ..239
Worms grow larger when undisturbed,.240
Freezing destroys them......
Extermination of the moth
Seldom exempt in ordinary manage-
ment
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XVIL
WAX.—25
What is it?.... seeseseeee
How it is obtained..... ae » 216
Commencement of a comb. AT
Jrooked combs..........
jtraight combs a
yaantity of honey taken by aswarm. .250
Making drone-cells. ........06
Some wax wasted...
Water necegssary., .....
Cells uniform in size...
Melting of combs...........+6
CHAPTER XVIIL
PROPOLIS.—256
How obtained.............0086
How discharged..............
+ 256
+256
New swarms sometimes use wax in-
stead... 7 5
More abundant: in August...
CHAPTFR XIX.
TRANSFERRING.—250
Preparation...
Time when...
How to doit...
20209
Keep brood together.......sssceeseee «260
Caution....... atin a Miawetihejeltis eee eee ROR
CHAPTER XX
SAGACITY OF BEES.—268
Too marvellous.................seeeeeee 263
No part of the hive inaccessible...... 265
+ We should be content with facts.......266
CHAPTER XXI.
SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER.—266
First care., is 3
Strong colonies inclined to rob.
Requisites of good stocks.....
Disadvantage to kill bees.....
Cause of poor colonies varies in differ-
ent sections..... aicnaiaibate eivinedncarninna
Poor stocks may be united
When it is not best.............. a
Two swarms united, eat less then when
separate ........cceneee sata etbinietasbalvatesn 270
Season to operate
Paralyzing bees..
Description of fumigatior «271
How to operate........ccccecceweereeeee 272
How bees were wintered in a sear city
of honey..... $/ Aneeu es simeirebeaN lan 274
Advantage of transferring.... ed
Uniting comb, honey, and bees..
When it is best to feed.......... waenaw ea QV
CHAPTER XXII
STRAINING HONEY AND WAX—279
Removing combs
Hlow to strain ..
Metheglln and vinegar
Making wax..........+5..
Quantity wasted
Large quantities...
CHAPTER XXIIIL
WINTERING BEES. —284
Feeding refuse honey.. ........... 0.5
Different methods.......... ...seeeee 284
Warmth requisite . ....... 0. sees O84
Blze of cOlONY.... cece eee cece eee 235
Setting out.............00
A building for the purpose..
Room in dwelling house
Vu
Promotion of warmth..
Moisture............
Causes of starving
Dysentery..
Water ene
Natives of a warm climate.
Warm room.
Cellar preferred.
CONTENTS.
Burying bees.....
Straw hives .
Philosophy
Straw top.
, CHAPTER XXIV.
THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE—308
Reputation
Importers
Superiority
When first obtained.
Peculiarities...
Longer lived ...
Robbing.....
Disposition
Swarming.
Hive crowded
weather.
Remedy ..
Purity to be secured..
Variation in color of queens.... ...... 319
_ Finding queen...........
Susceptible of improvement...........
Neighbors join in purchasing queens
Mix three miles distant......
Colony to furnish drones,...
Method of Italianizing a whole apiar:
Artificial queens.......
How to rear them
How to obtain bees for rearing queens.325
Black bees as nurses + 826
Best time to obtain broo:
Introduction of queen. .
Italianizing the box-hive .
Test of the presence of the queen.
Transporting queen.......... ......
CHAPTER XXV.
PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES,—333
333
. 336
Qualification for an apiarian......
Luck
Purchase the best........... ..-.
Avoid diseased stocks,
Old ones not objectionable.
Transporting bees.
CHAPTER XXVL
CONCLUSION.—240
PREFACE.
One who for thirty-five consecutive years has succeed-
ed in keeping bees, and has been able, most of that
time, to count his stocks by hundreds, can hardly fail to
furnish something from his experience, that will be bene-
ficial and interesting to others; and he will doubtless be
pardoned for attempting to teach those who may desire to
avail themselves of his knowledge, and thus avoid the
tedious process of acquiring it for themselves.
Twelve years ago the author explained some of the
“Mysteries of Bee-keeping,” to the public. The simple,
practical and comprehensible instructions given, have met
with abundant favor among old practical bee-keepers, and
interested thousands who are now keeping bees with de-
cided success.
The greater number of bees kept, the increased quantity
and improved appearance of the honey in our markets,
encourage the belief that many who have at present no
adequate conception of the immense annual waste of this
delicious production, may yet be induced to make an ef-
fort to save a still greater proportion of it. It will
not be pretended that such immense numbers of bees may
be kept in any particular section of the United States,
as are reported to prosper in some parts of Europe, (2000
hives to the square mile,) but no one will deny that hun-
dreds of. thousands of stock might be profitably added to
the present amount. It has been estimated that on an
average, every acre will produce its pound of honey.
New York alone contains 30,000,000 acres. Shall we
suffer this enormous loss of the gifts of a beneficient Crea
x ; PREFACE.
tor, without an effort to secure to ourselves and the com-
munity, so valuable and vast a treasure? All that is
necessary, is sufficient encouragement and knowledge of
the subject.
Enough has already been done to show that the estimate
is sufficiently near the truth to be taken as a base for fu-
ture calculations. An area of a few square miles in the
writer’s vicinity, has, in some favorable seasons, furnished
for market over 20,000 Ibs, surplus honey. Had a propor-
tional quantity been collected in all other places in the
United States, we could count the proceeds by millions
of dollars instead of a few hundreds or thousands.
The author does not offer this improved edition because
he supposes that people would be unable to keep bees
without it, but with the hope that those who are already
doing well, may do better. A person who wishes to make
the most possible from his bees can hardly afford to dis-
pense with the benefit of any experience that will aid him.
The instructions found in the periodicals of the day are
often not to be depended upon. A score of bee-keepers,
each of limited experience, will give as many different
methods, and an editor equally inexperienced, is usually
unable to discriminate between them. The simplest di-
rections of a reliable practical bee-keeper who studies the
science with an honest enthusiasm, are invaluable to the
tyro in apiarian knowledge.
To benefit the largest possible class, the author has en-
deavored to be practical rather than scientific, and has
aimed at no elegance of style or diction, preferring that
the merit of the book should lie in its simplicity and
reliability. M. QUINBY,
St. Johnsville, N. ¥., April, 1865.
ILLUSTRATIONS.
Queen Bees) ccssceasca’ pee nhaanceetamange ct i cebseaee cu toaiiheitannmeeans
Regard of the Worker for the use
Worker Bee.........+eeeeeee meee vette Swe Sais SaGmee Ries
Brood from a Drone Queen in Worker Cells...
Comb showing the different shape of Cells, when an atlempt is made i raise
Queens from Drone Brood. .... iiss Bahu gia babichnkgioro stays bsatonngehene aieisterss: eed eaimeiioaat BO.
OvariesiOf thé QueEDs.vcesscsesins caas cociedisiiew ni sameemamedanes a8 Pal ieldd ee . 41
Roof........- sesoagee serene aiagitare Aspens anetesetarsts Oui ealejeartoee Scatae ares pina eGleelense 65
Simp!e movable Comb Hive « q arr
Movable Frame......eesceceeeccerenceccees s8Gaie Sata 9-5 base
Wire braces to support Frames ............eeseeeeee EES sao ieiarvionee ois ar leteniiees 70
Honey Board......- &) BBWwARE Sse elese ean aieter .
Straw Hive for Winter.... .....sseeee ae iGiy Basile
Bee House ssiisinccsatscescnan ssves anesiauaaaed aves wacces
Bee Hose vinsies wie siais bie cis Se ole eed Bivejssine nd ao alee west
Bee House.......
Hives arranged in a hedge............ Meier ase wre sig SEOs sine RGA wees
F6GU EP itcssedariinarictne garages aa gineseay a
Worm Gallery in the Comb...........
Moth-Worm........--sseeeenescesecee vee
Tool for killing Worms
Cluster of Queen Cells..... 0.06 .... 00 reeeeee
Bag for Hiving Bees..............-sccereeertawecee
Frames to hold Boxes inside the Hive. .........--.-s+eee sae: distew ein asedndeee 192
Tools for Pruning ;
Bee Hat ...... wneeie eis
Bee Moth... cc cccccc seve ccccnc rene csp sence sean sesesase pnesasaranes seer sreeeeaad
Worm Gallery removed from the Comb........... shsleigie plaiinrariseeis aaeernnaeeeead
Cocoons of the Moth Worm......... Cai giaiesiaraile waders eee one oar
Abdomen of the Bee, enlarged, showing the scales of Wax........0.+
Transferred Combs...........++08 a Sansaie set a sige eshiceedee iia; Laisle aigalaeta eeihassee 261
Fumigator..... ietalofatd o'e 6jsiais sia ecg oleyat atWie, shh raiecaieibis tata ia isipte orn ale Moloin eidinie aisle aio eN
Comb ¢ontaining Brood from which to raise Queens........- sss. eeveeceee 06323
No. 34 Inserted in a Comb ready for the rearing box..,.......+ gassinajeairive tele Oee
Queen Cells made on such COMD.....-seseeeseeeeeseeeeens seabaiae mene dase B20)
CHAPTERILI
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
Every prosperous swarm or family of bees must con-
tain one queen, several thousand workers, and part of the
year, a few hundred drones.
DESCRIPTION OF QUEEN.
The Queen is the mother of the entire colony. Her
only duty seems to be to lay eggs, of which she sometimes
deposits two thousand in twenty-four hours. In shape,
she resembles the worker more than the drone, but is
longer than either, and like the worker possesses a sting,
but will not use it upon anything below royalty. Her
color upon the upper side is darker than that of the others;
the two posterior legs and under side are
of a bright copper color. In some of them
a yellow stripe nearly encircles the ab-
domen at the joints. All the colors are
bright and glossy, and she has but little of
the down or hair that is seen on the drones
and workers. Different queens vary much
Fig. 1.—QUEEN. in’ color, some being much darker than
others. A still greater variation is presented in the Italian
queens, most of which are of a rich golden color, while a
few are even darker than the usual shade of the natives.
For the first few days after leaving the cell her size is
much less than after she has assumed her maternal duties.
She seldom, perhaps never, leaves the hive, except when
leading out a swarm, and when but a few days old to mect
the drone for the purpose of fecundation.
18 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
AGE OF QUEENS—THEIR OFFICE.
The average age attained by the queen is about three
years. The idea that the queen governs the colony, and
directs all their operations, is probably totally erroneous.
They manifest a certain regard and affection for her, how-
Fig. 2.—REGARD OF THE WORKERS FOR THE QUEEN.
ever, and a half dozen or so may often be seen gathered
around her, as shown in the accompanying cut. They
will, when destitute of a queen, continue their labors with as
much system and regularity, as when one is present, although
she is necessary to insure their permanent prosperity.
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 19
WORKERS,
All labor devolves on the Workers. These are provided
with a sac or bag for gathering honey, and basket-like
cavities on their posterior legs in which to pack the pollen
of the flowers in little pellets for carrying
it home to the hive. They range the fields
for honey and pollen, secrete wax, construct
combs, prepare food to nurse the young,
bring water, obtain propolis to seal up all
Fig 3. worker. crevices and flaws about the hive, stand guard
to keep out intruders, ete.
Huber and some others divide the workers into classes,
such as wax-workers, pollen-gatherers, nurses, etc., but it
is very difficult to believe that any such distinctions exist.
For the defence of their treasures and themselves, they
are provided with a sting and a virulent poison, but will not
use it when abroad, if unmolested; they volunteer an at-
tack only when near the hive. They are all females with
undeveloped organs of generation, yet they possess enough
of the maternal instinct to make them good nurses for the
brood of the real mother. For nearly two weeks after the
young worker emerges from its cell, it is almost exclusive-
ly engaged within the hive; thereafter, it assists in collect-
ing stores.
AGE OF THE WORKER.
Its age varies from one to eight months, according to
the season in which it is hatched. In the busiest season it
lives but a few weeks, but when hatched at the beginning
of cool weather, its life is extended several months,
DRONES.
The Drones are the males; their bodies are large and
clumsy, and without the symmetry of the queen and worker.
Their buzzing when on-the wing is loud, and different from
20 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
that of the workers. They have no sting, and may be
taken in the fingers with impunity. They
seem to be of the least valuable class in the
bee community; they assist sometimes, in
keeping up the necessary animal heat in the
hive; but one only, out of thousands, is ac:
tually serviceable in fecundating the queen
The number reared depends upon the
Fig. 4—pRoNE. strength of the colony, and the stores on
hand or being collected.
AGE OF DRONES.
Whenever a scarcity of honey occurs, they are all des-
troyed. Thus their lite is very precarious, being sometimes
limited to a few hours, or extended to a few days, weeks or
months; but averaging much less than that of the workers.
PREPARATIONS FOR SWARMING.
In the spring and early part of summer, when nearly all
the combs are empty, and food is abundant, the becs rear
brood more extensively than at any other period. The
hive soon becomes crowded with bees, and royal cells are
constructed, in which to raise queens. When some of
these young queens are sufficiently advanced to be sealed
over, the old one, and the greater part of the workers,
leave for a new location, (termed swarming,) leaving those
remaining to maintain the prosperity of the hive. They
soon collect in a cluster, and if put into an empty hive,
commence anew their labors, constructing combs, rearing
brood, and storing honey, to be abandoned the following
year, as before.
THE NATURE OF BEES SHOULD BE UNDERSTOOD.
We should fully understand that the nature of the bee,
found under any circumstances, climate, or condition, is
the same. Instincts first implanted by the Creator, have
INTRODUOTORY REMARKS. 21
come unimpaired through millions of generations to the
present day, and will continue unchanged.
To gratify our acquisitiveness, we have forced them to
labor under every disadvantage ; yes, we have compelled
them to sacrifice their industry, their prosperity, and even
their lives, but they have never yielded their instincts. We
may destroy life, but cannot improve or change their na-
ture; the laws that govern them are fixed and immutable,
Spring returns to its annual task, dissolves the frost and
warms into life nature’s dormant powers. Flowers, with
a smile of joy expand their delicate petals in grateful
thanks, while the stamens sustain upon their tapering
points the anthers covered with the fertilizing pollen, and
the pistil springs from a cup of liquid nectar, and the
delicious fragrance imparted to every breeze, invites the
bee as with a thousand tongues to the sumptuous ban-
quet. She does not need any stimulus from man as an
inducement to partake of the feast;- without his aid she
visits each cup of wasting swectness, and secures the tiny
drop, while the superabundant farina, dislodged from the
nodding anthers, covers her body to be brushed together
and kneaded into bread. All she requires at the hand of
man, is a suitable storehouse for her treasures.
Industry isa part of bee nature. If, when their tenement
is supplied with all things necessary to take them safely
through the winter, and there is no necessity for continued
labor, we furnish them additional room, they assiduously
toil to fill it up. Rather than to pass their time in idleness,
during a bounteous yield of honey, they will sometimes
deposit their surplus in combs outside of the hive, or under
the stand. This inherent industry lies at the foundation
of all the advantages in bee-keeping, consequently our
hives must be constructed with this end in view; but at
the same time we must not interfere with other require-
ments of their nature. Their peculiar traits mentioned in
22 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.
this chapter, will be more fully discussed in different parts
of this work, as appears to be called for, where proof
will be offered to sustain the positions here assumed,
which are as yet mere assertions.
CHAPTER II.
PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.
IMPERFECTLY UNDERSTOOD.
Comparatively few people have a very definite idea
of the time and manner of rearing brood. Many persons
who have kept bees for years have bestowed so little
attention upon this point that they are unable to tell
at what time they commence, how they progress, or
when they cease. They have an idea that one swarm,
and occasionally two or three, is reared sometime in
June, or the early part of summer, and this comprises their
whole knowledge of the subject. Whether the drones
deposit the eggs, or some of the workers are females, and
each raises one or two, or the “king bee” is a common
parent of the eggs, is quite beyond their ability to decide.
It is hardly necessary to inform observing apiarians that
the queen is the mother of the whole family.
WHEN THEY BEGIN TO REAR BROOD.
The period at which she commences depositing eggs
probably depends on the strength of the colony, amount
of honey on hand, etc., and not upon the time when gath-
ering food begins. Strong colonies frequently begin to
rear brood by Christmas. When sweeping out the
litter under the hives as early as the first of March, young
bees may often be found under the best stocks. Observa-
PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING, 23
tion shows that there is but little time when our best
colonies have no brood—seldom more than two months.
Yet stocks when very weak do not commence until warm
weather. It seems that a certain degree of warmth is
necessary to perfect the brood, and this a small family
ran not generate.
HOW BREEDING IS DONE IN SMALL COLONIES,
Ina small family, the first eggs are deposited in the centre
of the cluster of bees; it may not be in the centre of the
hive in all cases, but the middle of the cluster wherever it
chances to be located, is the warmest place. Here the
queen will commence; a space not larger than a dollar is
first used, and the cells exactly opposite on the same comb
are next occupied. If there is sufficient warmth in the
hive, produced either by warm weather or generated by
the bees, she will then fill a spot on the adjoining combs
corresponding with the first, but not quite as large. The
circle of eggs in the first comb is then enlarged, and more
added to the next, and so on, continuing to spread, and
keeping the distance from the center to the outside of the
space occupied by eggs about equal on all sides, until they
oceupy the entire surface of the comb. Long before the
outer edge is occupied, the first eggs deposited are ma-
tured, and the queen returns to the centre and uses these
cells again, but she is not as particular this time to fill so
many in exact order as at first, though with the Italian
queen the brood is always very compact. This is the gen-
eral process with small families. I have removed the bees
from such in all stages of breeding, and have always found
their proceedings as described.
THE PROCESS DIFFERENT IN LARGE FAMILIES.
In very large families their proceedings are different.
As any part of the cluster of bees is warm enough for
24° PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING,
breeding, there is less necessity for economizing heat, and
confining all the eggs to one small spot, and some unoccu-
pied cells will be found among tho brood, and a few will
contain honey and bee-bread. But in the breeding season,
a circle of cells, an inch or two wide, containing bee-
bread, borders the sheets of comb containing brood. As
bee-bread is probably the principal food of the young bee,
it is thus very convenient.
LAYING.
When pollen is abundant, and the swarm is in prosper-
ous condition, they soon reach the outside sheets of comb
with the brood. At this period, when the hive is about
full, and the queen is forced to the outside combs to find a
place for her eggs, it is interesting to witness her opera-
tions in a glass hive. I have seen her several times in one
day on a piece of comb next the glass. The light has no
immediate effect upon her, as she will quictly continue
about her duty, not the least embarrassed by curious eyes
at the window. I have frequently lifted out a comb on
which an Italian queen was engaged in laying, without
interrupting her in the least. Before depositing an egg
she enters the cell head first, probably to ascertain if it is
in proper condition, as a cell part filled with bee-bread or
honey is never used. When a cell is ready to receive the
egg, on withdrawing her head, she immediately curves her
abdomen, and inserts it. After a few seconds she leaves
the cell, when an egg may be seen attached by one end to
‘the bottom. It is about one-sixteenth of an inch in length,
slightly curved, very small, nearly uniform the whole length,
abruptly rounded at the ends, semi-transparent, and cov-
ered with a very thin and delicate coat, which will often
break at the slightest touch.
to
or
PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.
WHEN THE EGGS IATCH.
After the egg has been in“the cell about three days, a
small white worm may be seen coiled in the bottom, sur-
rounded by a milk-like substance, which, without doubt,
isits food. How this food is prepared is mere conjecture.
The supposition is that is chiefly composed of pollen; this
is strongly indicated by the quantity which accumulates
in hives that lose their queen and rear no brood—that is,
when a requisite number of workers is left. The workers
may be seen entering the cell every few minutes, probably
to supply this food. When the comb in the glass hive is
new and white, these operations can be seen more distinct-
ly than when it is old and dark.
In about sfx days after the worm hatches, it is sealed
. over with a convex waxen lid. It is now hidden from our-
sight for about twelve days, when it bites off the cover,
and comes forth a perfect bee. The period from the egg
to the perfect bee varies from twenty to twenty-four days,
averaging about twenty-one for workers, and twenty-four
for drones. The temperature of the hive will vary some-
what with the atmosphere; it is also governed by the
number of bees. A low temperature probably retards
the development, while a high one facilitates it.
ROUGH TREATMENT OF THE YOUNG BEES.
There have been some amusing accounts of the assiduous
attentions given to the young bee when it first emerges
from the cell. It is said that ‘they lick it all over, feed
it with honey,” etc., as if wonderfully pleased with their
acquisition. If any one expects to see any thing of this
kind, he must watch a little closer than IT have. I have
seen hundreds when biting their way out, and instead of
vare or attention, they often receive rather rough treat-
ment. The workers intent on other matters, will some-
- times come in contact with one part way out of the cell,
2
26 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.
with force sufficient to almost dislocate its neck, yet they
do not stop to see if any harm is done, or to beg pardon.
The little sufferer, after this rude lesson, scrambles back as
soon as possible out of the way, enlarges the prison door
a little, and again attempts to emerge, with perhaps the
same result; a dozen trials are often made before it suc-
ceeds. When it does leave, it seems like a stranger in a
multitude, with no friend to counsel, or mother to direct.
It wanders about uncared for and unheeded, and rarely
finds one sufficiently benevolent to bestow even the neces-
saries of life. It is generally forced to learn the important
lesson of looking out for itself, the day it leaves the cradle.
A cell containing honey is sought for, where its immediate
wants are all supplied.
TIME BEFORE THE YOUNG BEE COMMENCES LABOR.
Some have said that it would leave the hive for honey
on the day it left the cell. Since the introduction of
the Italian, we can determine this point very accurately
by noting the day when the first one hatches, and also
when the first one comes home loaded. It is seldom less
than seven, and quite often fourteen days before they are
thus seen. Some tell us, too, that after the bees seal over the
cells containing the larvie, ‘‘ they immediately commence
spinning their cocoons, which takes just about thirty-six
hours.” I think it very likely, but cannot imagine how it
was determined. I do not possess optical acuteness to
look into one of these cells after it is sealed over. Sup-
pose we drive away the bees and open the cell to examine
the interior: the little insect stops its labor in a moment,
probably disturbed by the air and light. I never could
detect one at work. Suppose we open these cells every
hour after sealing, can we tell any thing about their pro-
gress by the appearance of these cocoons, or even tell
when they are finished? The thickness of a dozen would
PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 27
not exceed that of common writing paper. It would be
interesting to know how these particulars were ascertained,
or whether they are simply surmises. When the bee
leaves the cell, a cocoon remains, and that is about all we
know concerning it.
TERMS APPLIED TO YOUNG BEES.
The young bee when it first leaves the egg, is termed a
grub, maggot, worm, or larva ; from this state it changes
to the shape of the perfect bee, which is said to be three
days after finishing the cocoon. From the time of this
change, till it is ready to leave the cell, the terms nymph,
pupa, and chrysalis, are applied. The lid of the drone cell
is rather more convex than that of the worker, and when
removed by the young bee in working its way out, is left
nearly perfect, being cut off around the edges; a coat or
lining of silk keeps it whole. The covering of the worker
cell is mostly wax, and is pretty well cut to pieces by the
time the bee gets out. The covering to the queen cell is
like that of the drone cell, but of greater diameter, and
thicker, being lined with a little more silk.
TIME FROM THE EGG TO THE MATURE QUEEN.
The time in which an egg originally destined for a
queen will mature, will not vary much from sixteen days ;
but when larve that are started as workers, are taken,
there will often be a variation. All of the three kinds
of bees remain in the egg form three or four days;
then in the grub form for five or six, partaking of food,
after which they are sealed up. When bees are deprived
of a queen, and have mear:s to rear another, they select
such brood as will produce one in the shortest time.
Give them a piece of comb containing eggs just laid, some
two or three days old, larvee just hatched, and some vary-
ing in age from one to five days, and the first cells made
28 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.
will probably be over the larvee about four days old, and
in ten days a queen will have matured. To insure the
possession of a queen, they may afterwards begin several
others, perhaps use some of the eggs, or some that were
egos when the comb was given them ; but if the first queen
hatches, she makes it her business to destroy all immature
ones.
SIMILARITY OF QUEEN AND WORKER EGGS.
The fact that queens raised in this way seem to possess
all the requisites of those raised in swarming hives, indi-
cates that the eggs laid in worker and queen cells are all
alike. It also gives rise to the idea with many modern
writers, that all eggs for both queens and workers are laid
in worker cells, and transferred to queen cells when wanted
there. The antipathy of one queen towards another, al-
though an immature one, and her own offspring, is thought
sufficient to prevent her depositing eggs in these cells.
Now, without sufficient evidence to be able to deny this
positively, I must content myself with merely expressing
a disbelief. I would like to say that I do not believe that
the bees ever remove an egg or larva from a worker to a
queen cell. For several years I have raised queens artifi-
cially by the hundred, in small queen boxes. In nearly
all the boxes, there would be some queen cells in that stage
of progress when it would be supposed that such transfer
would be desirable. I have watched diligently and never
yet discovered it. Whenever a queen has been raiscd,
the egg or larva was in the cell when given to the bees,
and the workers always changed or enlarged a common
cell to a queen cell. The shape of the cell depends on the
position of the comb from which it is made; if from a
comb with cells of ordinary length, they are enlarged,
lengthened, and turned downward. If the cells are not
very deep, or are near the lower edge of the comb
where there is abundant room to turn them down,
. PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 29
the enlargement and change of direction will be made
very soon after they decide upon making a queen of it.
SHORT CELLS USUALLY TAKEN FOR REARING QUEENS,
In swarming hives, whenever the bees decide on rearing
queens, cells that are short like those on the lower edge of
comb not completed, or on the side, seem to be preferred,
and quite a number are often built close together.
Mr. Harbison has, I understand, patented the manner
of introducing the piece of comb containing brood from
which queens are to be reared. It is simply to place the
comb with brood in a horizontal position, thus bringing
the cell vertical, and save the bees the trouble of making
a crooked cell. The young bee thus stands on its head
like a young queen, during this period of its existence.
He does not claim that this makés it a queen, but that
from the same number of eggs, more queens will be raised.
I have watched such combs with considerable interest,
when side by side with a piece of comb placed the other
way, with abundant room directly underside, without dis-
covering that a larger number of queens was produced,
or that théwere any larger or better.
WHEN THE QUEEN LEAVES THE HIVE TO MEET THE DRONE.
In about six days after the queen has left her cell, if no
competitors are in the way, she leaves the hive to meet
the drone. I presume that it does not make much differ-
ence whether she has been reared in a large swarming
hive, or in a small box particularly designed for rearing
queens. The meeting takes place high in the air. Very
few have ever pretended that they have witnessed the
connection. A few years ago, I saw a statement naming
two individuals who had witnessed it. As one of them
was a perfect stranger to me, perhaps I ought to qualify
my opinion, and say that it zs possible ; but the other one
30 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.
I happen to know is not perfectly reliable in all things,
and if the truth in this case, is to be established upon Azs
testimony, I fear it will lack support.
The queen upon her return, frequently bears evident
marks of her connection with the drone, and usually be-
gins to lay in two days afterwards, and continues through-
out the season, unless some special interruption occurs.
NUMBER OF EGGS THAT A QUEEN WILL LAY.
The number of eggs that she will lay in twenty-four
hours, is a subject on which all writers do not yet agree,
probably owing to the fact that the number varies from
one or two hundred to three thousand. Take a queen
that has been reared in a small box, and she will soon fill
all the combs after she begins, and when there is no occasion
for laying many, there ‘are less deposited. She remains
small in size, and seems to adapt herself, partially at least,
to the necessities of the colony ; but this same queen, | in-
troduced to a strong colony with suitable combs, in a
honey season, will, in less than a week, greatly increase in
size, so as hardly to be recognized, and will deposit two
or three thousand eggs daily. This statement#when first
heard, is received with a very large margin by almost
every one: “the thing seems impossible ;” and yet a little
patient observation convinces the most skeptical. I have
had a colony in an observatory hive, where every egg de-
posited could be seen. Visitors have frequently counted
the eggs as deposited, for ten or fifteen minutes, and all
have estimated the number laid in twenty-four hours to be
over three thousand. Mr. Harbison says: “ During the
past season I worked a number of queens to their full ca-
pacity for producing eggs, in strong colonies, by frequently
changing combs from which brood had just emerged in
artificial swarms where the queen had not yet become fer-
tile, for combs stocked with eggs and larve, stimulating
PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. ol
them constantly by keeping them well supplied with food,
when honey abroad became scarce. I put two of these
combs, being about twelve inches wide, by fifteen or six-
teen deep, into a strong colony, where the queen was very
prolific. Over two-thirds of the cells were empty. when
put in, and within four or five days they were all stocked
with eggs, except a few that were stored with pollen.
This was by no means a single occurrence. It was
repeated again, and again, making at least 10,000 eggs
laid in four or five days.”
A person desirous of approximating to the number or
eggs deposited, without being able to actually count them,
can make an estimate as follows. It will satisfy him that
a queen is the mother: If we examine a thrifty stock in
the height of the breeding season we shall find the combs
filled with brood, amounting frequently to three-quarters
of all in the hive, By observing the number of cells to
the square inch, it is easy to get the number to the square
foot, then multiply this by the’number of the combs in a
hive, and we shall have the whole number of cells. For
example, apiece of worker comb one inch square contains
about fifty cells, including those on both sides. At this
rate, a piece twelve inches square contains over 7000. Sup-
pose a hive contains eight such combs, and that 120 square
inches of éach comb are used for brood, we have eight
times 120 square inches of brood—960—fifty to the square
inch would multiply into 48,000 cells. One or two of these
combs would contain cells for drones, which are a little
larger, and the number would be thus somewhat reduced.
Also some might be empty, the young bee having just left
them, and a few here and there might be occupied with bee-
bread or honey. Admitting the necessary deduction to be
one quarter, we would have left 36,000 cells actually occu-
pied at one time with brood in various stages of develop.
ment ! We must remember that the time from the egg to
32 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.
the mature bee, is not over twenty-five days at most; hence
all that are in the cells now, must have been put there by
the queen within the last twenty-five days! This gives an
average of nearly 1500 per day! .
It is common to find estimates that a single female will
lay from 70,000 to 100,000 in a season. One says 90,000 in
three months ; most writers are apt to confound the number
matured with the number laid. Let the number laid be
what it may, thousands are never perfected. During the
spring months, in medium and small stocks where the bees
can protect but few combs with animal heat, I have often
found cells containing a plurality of eggs, two, three, and
occasionally four in one cell. These supernumeraries must
be removed, and may frequently be found in the dust on
the bottom board.*
Another portion of eggs is wasted whenever a supply of
their food fails. If we remove the bees from a stock dur-
ing a scarcity, when the hive is light, we will be very likely
to find hundreds of eggs in the cells and only very few ad-
vancing from that stage toward maturity. I have thus
found it in autumn, in July, sometimes the first of June,
and in fact, at any time when the maturing of the brood
would be likely to exhaust their stores, and endanger the
supply of the family. Now instead of the fertility of the
queen being greater in the spring and first of summer
than at other times, as we are often told, I would suggest
that a greater abundance of food at this season, and a
greater number of empty cells, may be the reason that
more bees are matured.
* This is a good test of the presence of a queen. Sweep off the board clean, and
look a day or two after, for these eggs. Take care that antsor mice have no
chance to get them; they are as fond of eggs for breakfist as any one, and might
deceive you by removing the eggs. When any eggs or immature bees are found,
no further proof of the presence of a queen is needed.
PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 33
WHEN DRONES ARE REARED.
Whenever the hive is well supplied with honey and bees,
eggs are deposited in the drone cells.
WHEN QUEENS ARE REARED IN SWARMING IIVES,
Also, at the proper season, when the hive becomes
crowded with bees, and honey is plenty, the preparations
for young queens commence. As the first step towards
swarming, from one to twenty royal cells are begun, and
when about half completed, the queen (if the conditions
continue favorable,) will deposit eggs in them.* These
are glued fast by one end like those for the workers.
When hatched, the little worm is supplied with a superabun-
dance of food; this appears from the fact that I have
frequently found a quantity remaining in the cell after the
queen had left. The consistence of this substance is about
like cream, the color some lighter, or just tinged with yel-
low. If it were thin like water, or-even honey, I cannot
imagine how it could be made to stay in the upper end of
an inverted cell of that size, in such quantities as are put
in. Sometimes a cell of this kind will contain this food,
and no worm to feed upon it. I surmise that the bees
have compounded more than their present necessities re-
quire, and stored it there to have it ready ; also, that being
there, all might know for whom it was designed.
The taste is said to be “more pungent,” than that of
the food given to the worker, and the difference in food
is assumed to change the bee from a worker to a queen.
It can not be the shape of the cell, because I have known
queens to be raised in cells that could not be distinguished
from worker cells, by ordinary observers.
*I do not assert this positively. All my observations indicate it, yet I have
never seen her in the act.
Q*
34 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.
WHEN QUEENS AND DRONES ARE DESTROYED BEFORE SWARMING.
If from any cause, honey fails so far as to make the ex-
istence of a swarm in any way hazardous, the preparations
are abandoned, and these young queens destroyed, in all
stages from the egg to maturity. When an occurrence
like this takes place, the drones next fall victims to the
failure of honey. A brief existence only is theirs; such
as are perfect, are destroyed without mercy, and those in
the chrysalis state are often dragged out and sacrificed to
the necessities of the colony. Such as are allowed to
hatch, instead of being fed and protected as they would
be if honey were abundant, are permitted while yet
weak from the effects of hunger, to wander from the hive,
and fall to the earth by hundreds.*
These results attend only a scarcity in the early part
of the season. The massacre of July and September is
quite different. The drones then have age and strength ;
an effort is apparently first made by the workers to drive
them out without proceeding to extremes; they are ha-
rassed sometimes for several days, the workers feigning
only to sting, but very few are dispatched in that way ;
yet there is evidence proving beyond doubt that the sting
is sometimes used. Hundreds will often be collected to-
gether in a compact body at the bottom of the hive; this
mutual protection affording a few hours’ respite from their
tormenters, who do not cease to worry them. In a few
days they are gone, and it is difficult to tell what has be-
come of them. If the hive is well supplied with honey
in September, some of the drones have a longer lease of
life given them. I have seen them as late as December.
When the best hives are poorly supplied with stores, the
bees will rear no drones the ensuing spring, until the
*The destruction of drones at this time does not prove that there will not be
any swarms, as some have asserted; but it shows that there isa scarcity of
honey, and that swarming is put off indefinitely. if not altogether.
PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 35
flowers yield a good supply. I have known one or two
years in which no drones appeared before the last of June ;
at other times, thousands are matured by the first of May.
THE OLD QUEEN LEAVES WITIE THE FIRST SWARM.
The old queen leaves with the first swarm, and as soon
as cells are ready in the new hive, she deposits her eggs:
in them, at first for workers, the number corresponding
with the supply of honey and size of the swarm. When
the supply of honey fails before the time for leaving the old
stock, she will remain there, and continue laying through-
out the season.
WHAT BECOMES OF THE BEES WHEN NO SWARM ISSUES.
As many bees die or are lost during their excursions,
as are replaced by the young ones. In tact they often di-
minish in number rather than increase; so that by the
next spring a hive that has cast no swarm is no better for
a stock, than one from which a swarm has issued. We
are apt to be deceived by bees clustering outside, towards
the latter end of the season, and suppose it hardly possi-
ble for them to get in, when in fact it may be caused by
hot weather, full stores, ete.
WHEN A YOUNG QUEEN TAKES THE PLACE OF THE OLD ONE.
In ordinary circumstances when a swarm has left a
stock, the oldest of the young queens is ready to emerge
from her cell in about seven or eight days; if no second
swarm is sent out she will take her mother’s place, and
begin to lay eggs in about eight days. Two or three
weeks is all the time in the whole summer in which eggs
can not be found in all prosperous hives.
NUMBER OF DRONES.
The relative. number of drones and workers, when the
latter are most numerous, doubtless depends on the size
36 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.
of the hive. When a swarm is just hived, the first cells
constructed are of the size for workers. If the hive be
very small, and bees numerous, it may be filled before
they are fully aware of it, and but few drone cells be
built ; consequently but few drones can be raised. If the
hive be large, considerable honey will be stored, and cells
for storing honey are usually of the size intended for
drones, and these will be made as soon as the requisite
number for workers is provided. It is said that more
drone cells are made when the queen is quite old. An
abundant yield of honey during the process of filling a
large hive, would also cause a greater proportion of these
cells to be built. The amount of drone brood being gov-
erned by the same cause, is also a strong argument against
large hives, as affording room for too many of these cells,
where an unnecessary number of drones might be reared,
thus causing a useless expenditure of honey, etc.
THEORIES RELATIVE TO DRONES.
It is now determined that an egg deposited by an ordina-
ry queen, in a drone cell, becomes a drone, and ina worker
cell, a worker, I know that theories differing very ma-
terially from the foregoing, are advanced by nearly all
writers. One says: “In spring the queen lays about two
thousand eggs of males, resumes it again in August, but
during the rest of the intervals she exclusively lays worker
eggs. The queen must be at least eleven months old be-
fore she begins to lay the eggs of males.” Dr. Bevan
says, ‘‘ the great laying of drone eggs usually commences
about the end of April.” All these theories are at fault.
It is proved beyond dispute that drone eggs are laid at all
seasons whenever the condition of the hive will warrant
it. But there are those who have investigated farther,
and who give us another theory : that the eggs for the two
kinds of bees are produced separately, and that the queen
PHYSIOLOGY AND BRIEEDING. 37
knows when each kind is ready, and the workers know
it also.
The fact that all eggs laid in drone cells will produce
drones and nothing else, is to be accounted for. There is
no possibility of setting this aside. The attempt to rear
aN NUN a queens from such has so
utterly failed with my-
self and others, that we
have no longer any hope
y of success. The reason
’ undoubtedly is, that eggs
laid in drone cells are
not impregnated, Queens
with faulty wings, or
otherwise unable to fly
Ki = out to meet the drones,
ig. 5.\—BROOD FROM A DRONE QUEEN ie
IN WORKER CELLS. or such as are raised late
in the season, when no drones exist, are certain to
prove drone layers; every egg they deposit, whether in
worker or drone cells, produces a drone. I have frequently,
since obtaining the Italian, reared queens intentionally late
in the season, that I may have drone-laying queens for the
purpose of raising early drones. Such failed to meet the
drones, and were drone layers in cgnsequence.* When-
ever the brood of the fertile workers has matured, it has
proved to be drones.t No one will pretend that these
*A drone queen, when laying in worker cells, does it more irregularly, or the
bees do not nurse all that are laid. About half the cells are sealed over after
being lengthened at least one-third. It has been recommended to “destroy such
a queen and substitute another; and as the combs are worthless, destroy them,
and let: the bees build new.” Ihave found these combs as good as new ones,
and would advise retaining them.
+I never witnessed the phenomenon of a fertile worker until after I had been
raising Italian queens in the small rearing boxes for sometime. I had used
clean drone comb in several of them, and in some that had been without a queen
a long time, I discovered eggs in the cells. Some contained as many as six, put
in rather uningeniously, as if it were the work ofa novice. Some were sticking
38 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.
have become impregnated. All this indicates, if it does
not prove conclusively, that all drone eggs are unimpreg-
nated. There is still another indication that they are not
impregnated. The Italian queen that has met the native
drone, and brings forth a mixed progeny of workers—
half Italian and half native—will produce just as pure
drones as her mother, or one that has never met the drone.
Does not this militate against any theory that the vivify-
ing influence is incorporated with the egg in its formation?
on the side, half way to the bottom, and others were on different parts of the
bottom. Some of the cells contained larve pretty well advanced, and that
eventually matured into apparently perfect drones. A day or two after, on tak-
ing out a comb, I found a worker in the very act of laying. Her abdomen was
inserted its whole length, her head, thorax, and wings being all that was visible
ofherbody. She was not disturbed at all by the removal of the comb, but con-
tinued the important operation of deposiling an egg, the gravity of her counte-
nance indicating that she considered herself the important personage of the colony
PY ae
SS
ous fy cee
Y} ] Diet f
" ' x © A
eer
)
Fig. 6.—COMB SHOWING THE DIFFERENT SHAPE OF CELLS WHEN AN AT-
TEMPT IS MADE TO RAISE A QUEEN FROM DRONE BROOD.
by being elevated to the dignity of becoming the mother of a drone. I found
that the length of time required by her to deposit an egg was three or four times
greater than that usually occupied by a queen. A day or two after, I caught
three dignified matrons at one time engaged in this all important and not-to-be
deferred business, and afterwards observed several others thus occupied. [
noticed that the phenomenon was usually produced by keeping the little colony
PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 39
This principle is of immense value to all who would Itali-
anize their apiaries.
To account for their not being impregnated, especially
those laid by a perfect queen, Mr. Langstroth says:
MR. WAGNER'S THEORY.
“My friend, Mr. Samuel Wagner, of York, Pa., has ad-
vanced a highly ingenious theory, which accounts for all
the facts, without admitting that the queen has any special
knowledge or will on the subject. He supposes that
when she deposits her eggs in the worker cells, her body
is slightly compressed by their sides, thus causing the eggs
as they pass the spermatheca to receive its vivifying influ-
ence. On the contrary, when she is laying in drone cells,
as this compression can not take place, the mouth of the
spermatheca is kept closed, and the eggs are necessarily
unfecundated.” Mr. Harbison replies that he has no faith
in this “very plausible theory,” and thinks that “facts,
further experience and observation, will. demonstrate its
fallacy.” It appears that it is easier for him.to pull down
than to build up, because, after showing the weakness of
some days longer without a queen, and that they must be provided with plenty
of drone cells. I never knew them to lay in worker cells. The instinct that
prompts the desire to preserve the colony from destruction, inspires efforts to
which nature will not grant success. They even endeavor to rear queens from
these eggs, on some occasions. The great wonder is, why a worker should lay
atall. The only solution that I can offer at present is, that the knowledge of, or
grief at the loss of their mother, changes the internal structure of a mature bee,
and develops eggs sufficiently vitalized to hatch drones.: The theory that worker
layers were raised near a queen cell, and by accident were fed a little royal pap,
will not explain it at all. These workers were taken from a colony that had
never raised a queen, and they probably never thought of depositing an egg so
long as the queen was present. If this great anxiety for the mother was any
less, they might sometimes neglect to avail themselves of the means of provid-
ing one, when they had the power.
The phenomenon of other insects than the bee, producing young without direct
impregnation may be witnessed in the aphis, (Plant louse.) Not only one, but
several generations of females, are brought forth in succession, Towards the
end of the season a few males are produced, which continue the species for a
few months longer. ©
40 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.
this theory, he offers one, that, to me, appears still more
fallacious, and still more beset with difficulties. He states
as objections to Mr. Wagner’s theory, first : “‘ that the ab-
domen of the queen, where the sac is situated, is so small,
that when thrust even to the bottom of the worker’s cell,
it cannot be sufficiently compr essed to impregnate the egg
as represented, in passing its mouth.’ Again: “ When
the old queen is hived with a swarm, she commences lay-
ing eggs as cells are ready, and often lays in worker cells
when only one-eighth of an inch high. Is it possible that
the abdomen of the queen receives any pressure from the
sides of the cells whilst in the act of thrusting her ovipos-
itor into the cell to deposit the egg?” He goes back to
the theory of periodical drone-egg laying, not to the ex-
tent of limiting it to two periods in the season, but to
certain periods. He says, in substance (I condense his
remarks on this point), that he thinks it highly probable
that the queen knows that an egg in a drone cell will bring
forth a drone; knows when it is proper to raise drones,
ete. Who ever saw eggs laid in drone cells in mid-winter
or early in spring, until nearly time for swarming? Yet
all strong stocks raise brood from January until summer.
He has “ cut holes in a worker comb and inserted corres-
ponding pieces of drone comb which remained empty
while all around would be filled with worker brood, etc.,
proving that no drone eggs are laid until the general
simultaneous laying of all strong colonies. He gives us
his concluding theory which I quote at length.
MR. ITARBISON’S THEORY.
“ At present, 1 shall content myself with believing that
a sufficient portion of the seminal fluid to cause the egg
to germinate, is incorporated with it in its formation. The
eggs to produce drones or males are generated in, or pro-
duced from one side or branch of the ovaries, and those
PILTYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 41
producing females from the other side. We find that the
ovaries are separated into two equal parts, (according to
Swammerdam, after whom Langstroth copies,) having no
connection whatever, except that the contents of each
branch is discharged through the common oviduct or pas-
sage. Over the outlets of the passages or oviducts open-
ing from each of these divisions into the main channel. or
common oviduct, the queen has full control, and fully
understands that eggs from the one division will produce
drones, and from the other, workers; and the anomaly of
drone-laying queens arises from the imperfect development
of that Das of a ovaries which produces eggs for
workers.”
Let us see what there is in support of the two theories.
He believes that there is
enough seminal fluid to
cause the egg to generate,
incorporated with it in its
formation. Yet in another
place he admits that the
queen is provided with a
receptacle for the male ele-
ment, and doubts that any
eggs are ever hatched that
are not impregnated di-
rect, in the following lan-
guage, “ That this is true,
permit me at present to
doubt ; its assumptions are
too extravagant, and so far
from harmonizing with
Fig. 1—ov Anizs or Tue queen. ll animated nature, with
which I am in any way conversant, etc.”
He should remember that we start with some facts not
in harmony with any thing “with which we are conver-
42 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.
sant.” Where in the whole round of animated nature is
there a female producing hundreds of thousands of eges
in a life time? We have heard of a kind of ant that ex-
ceeds even this, but we are not familiar with it. In ani-
mated nature, as far as our observation extends, eggs are
usually produced in series of dozens or hundreds, and the
male is met for each brood. A female may produce one
brood or more, but the queen will, under some circum-
stances, continue an uninterrupted series from January to
October. One impregnation is operative for a life time.
Is there not wisdom in thus economizing the vital fluid,
and using it only when necessary ?
But eggs of some animals are impregnated after their
formation, even after they are discharged, as is the case
with those of most kinds of fish, frogs, ete. The providing
of the sac or receptacle of the queen, is an admirable dis-
play of the wisdom of the Creator, in adapting means to
ends. Mr. Harbison’s supposition that because the ovaries
of the queen are separated into two equal parts, that
when the queen produces only drones, one side is imper-
fectly developed, does not enlighten us much, even if we
admit it. I see no reason why the side in which the drone
eggs are formed, should not sometimes be imperfectly do-
veloped as well as the other, and we occasionally have a
queen that lays no drone eggs; such a case has never been
reported, to my knowledge. That she “fully understands
that eggs from one division will produce drones, and the
other, workers,” I can not comprehend any better than
that she would understand equally well when a drone egg
was about to be laid, if they were all formed in one mass.
If drone and worker eggs were separated in two divisions,
it would seem that the mass of each would be proportion-
ate in size to the quantity laid of each; but they are
represented as alike in size. Perhaps no one would dis-
pute it if I snould say that hundreds of one kind are laid
PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 43
to one of the other, on an average. Mr. H. says that a
queen will lay none but worker eggs from January until
about the swarming time, when simultaneously all queens
in strong colonies lay drone eggs. Is one division idle all
this time? A queen in a weak colony, with but little
honey, may be kept all summer without raising a drone;
they are frequently so kept. What becomes of the divi-
sion of drone eggs all this time? If it were natural
for her to deposit them at a particular season, like the
putting forth of buds and leaves, then the queens of small
families should produce drones accerding to the season,
and not according to the condition of the family.
That the queen knows any thing about the kind of eggs
she is depositing, is, to me, very doubtful. One circum-
stance witnessed by myself, has a strong bearing on this
subject. A colony in a glass hive had remained quite
small up to the middle of June. One outside sheet of
comb was three-fourths worker cells. For several days I
had observed the bees cutting off the cells in which they
had stored honey the previous season, for the purpose of
rearing brood. I soon discovered eggs in both worker and
drone cells. Shortly after, on opening the door, I found
the queen engaged in laying eggs in the drone cells.
Nearly every one already contained an egg. Most of these
she examined, but did not use them. Six or eight, only,
appeared to be unoccupied, and in each of them she imme-
diately deposited an egg. After depositing the last one
in the drone cells, she continued to search for more empty
cells, and in doing so, she passed, apparently by accident,
upon the worker cells, where she found a dozen or more
empty, in each of which, without hesitation, she laid an
egg. The whole time occupied was not more than thirty
minutes. Each produced according to the cell used, drones
in drone cells, and workers in worker cells. It is hardly
worth while to tell me that she knew her series of drone
44 PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING.
eggs was exhausted just when she laid the last one in the
drone cell, because I should at once inquire why she ex-
amined so many of those cells, if she did not intend to use
them, had they been empty. It will require very positive
evidence to convince me that those worker cells did not
receive the identical eggs that would have been placed in
drone cells had they not been pre-occupied.
But can we account for the impregnation of some, and
the non-impregnation of other eggs laid by the same
queen in the space of half an hour, aside from the theory
of Mr. Wagner? Among the objections raised to this by
Mr. H., the strongest appears to be that the eggs laid in
cells one-cighth of an inch deep, are just as sure to pro-
duce workers as those laid in deeper ones. It is consid-
ered by some persons as entirely fatal to the whole theory.
For myself, I feel very reluctant to admit that it affects it
in the least, yet I must acknowledge that it is somewhat
obscured by the circumstances.
I very much hope that something explanatory will yet
be discovered, because if it is rejected, there are so many
things favoring this theory that will have to be otherwise
explained, that the task will be very heavy. It is possible
that when we have an arrangement by which we can wit-
ness the depositing of theseeggs in such shallow cells, we
shall discover something that will shed more light upon
the subject. It may be, that, just at the moment of the
passage of the egg, or the act of laying, the contents of
the abdomen are crowded downward, and it enlarges suffi-
ciently to touch the sides of a cell only one-eighth of an
inch deep.
When I first saw the smallest queen that I ever raised,
whose body was even smaller than a worker’s, it occurred
to me at once that if she ever laid, it would be a test of this
principle. Her body being small it could not of course be
compresssed like others, and a large portion of her progeny
PHYSIOLOGY AND BREEDING. 45
would prove to be drones in worker cells. The result was
just what was .expected—one half were drones. (This
queen was lost on introducing her into a full colony.) I
have noticed, and no doubt others who have raised queens
in the small boxes also have, that from the first eggs
that the queen deposits, before her body is enlarged by
the accumulation of eggs, there are many drones, even in
the worker cells.
There are two sides to this question. The queen’ either
knows when she is about to lay drone eggs, or she does
not. Ifit is admitted that she does, another question im-
mediately arises, do the workers know it also? When-
ever the condition of the colony is such that drones may
be wanted, we find them preparing for them. If they
have no cells made, and there is room in the hive, they
construct them ; if they are made, they cut them down, if
they had been used for honey, and otherwise prepare them
for the eggs. Do they do this because the queen has im-
parted to them the knowledge of her wants just then, or
is it the result of common instinct? The hive, at such
times, is sufficiently populous for the bees to cover the comb
and maintain the requisite heat. They are getting a sup-
ply of honey from the flowers, and simultaneously all good
stocks rear drones. The stimulus of obtaining the honey
seems adequate to produce the result. It isnot necessary
that the honey should be obtained from the flowers at the
time. Sometimes it may have been stored the previous
year, or a large quantity may have been fed, and then
strong colonies will rear drones a month in advance of the
season. We can stimulate a strong colony to rear drones
throughout the season, even as late as October, by keeping
up sufficient warmth, and a liberal supply of food. Ihave
frequently raised Italian drones out of the honey yielding
season, when the natives were mostly destroyed, for the
purpose of serving queens reared out of season. There
46 TIVES.
is then much less risk of their meeting the black drone.
There is still another theory of this matter of sex, offered
by Mr. E. Kirby, but as I am unable to comprehend
it fully, I will not undertake to explain it to others.
Twelve years ago I dismissed this knotty subject with
this remark, “JI shall leave this matter for the present,
hoping that something conclusive may occur in my exper-
iments, or those of others. At present I am inclined to
think that the eggs are all alike, but am not fully satisfied.”
Since then we have advanced somewhat, in theories at
least. We have facts pointing very clearly to the con-
clusion that eggs producing drones are not impregnated.
By patient perseverance, I trust that there will yet be
more light thrown upon this interesting subject.
I am aware that this matter is of but little interest to
many readers, and J am advised to adhere to the plain
and practical, and avoid speculative topics. I shall endeavor
to do so generally, but this is, to me, of such special in-
terest, that I could not well avoid devoting a little more
attention to it than will be agreeable to all.
CHAPTER III.
HIVES.
SATISFACTION IN HAVING NO PATENT.
There is a satisfaction, in being able to express my
views on a subject involving so many conflicting interests,
and feel that no one can accuse me of selfish motives. I
have kept clear of all interest in the patent swindles of
the day, and have refused tempting bribes for a simple
endorsement of some particular “pattern bee-hive.” I
have refrained on principle from inflicting another patent
IVES. 47
on the community, whereby I doubtless could have made
some hundreds of dollars; for all the different methods of
constructing a bee hive are by no means exhausted,
neither is the race of credulous bee-keepers extinct. I
have put myself in antagonism with the patent-vender,
have endured his abuse, his sneering ridicule, and un-
founded accusations. For what? Certainly not in the
hope of any pecuniary reward. It is said that he who
causes two blades of grass to grow where but one grew
before, is a public benefactor. So it may be said of the
man, who even indirectly, aids in saving a portion of the
inestimable sweetness now wasted on the air, for want of
proper means to secure it. J have ever been anxious to
advance apiarian science, and promote the interest of the
apiarian, and if I succeed in ever so small a degree I shall
feel amply rewarded.
How can a man judge of the requisites of a bee-hive,
unless he is thoroughly versed in the natural history of
bees? Not one in a hundred of those spreading patent
hives broadcast over the land, is capable of giving an in-
telligent opinion concerning the habits and requirements
of bees. A patent is based upon some peculiarity of con-
struction, by which some real or fancied convenience is
obtained, and thenceforth that convenience is proclaimed
to be the one thing needful for a bee-hive, although it may
supplant other and more desirable qualities, if it does not
induce some positive evils.
NO DIFFICULTY IN OBTAINING CERTIFICATES AND PREMIUMS.
There is no difficulty in getting certificates of the enor-
mous quantities of honey produced by each particular hive.
With few exceptions, all patent-venders are provided with
them, as well as with “premiums” for “ best bee-hive,”
received at allthe Town, County, and State Fairs, through-
out the country. A premium from our Fair Committees
48 HIVES.
is no longer a recommendation,—every thing is recommend-
ed as well as patented; and when a man comes along who
has nothing to offer in favor of his hive, further than the
unprecedented amount of honey secured by it, and a fa-
vorable notice from a stupid committee, I feel very much
like dismissing him without ceremony ; it is evident he
has chosen a sorry vocation.
HIVES FURNISHED FOR TRIAL.
I have, during my bee-keeping experience, received a
score or two of patent hives, with the right to use, anda
request that I would give them a trial. Some patentees
were no doubt sincere in the belief that I would find their
hive the “ne plus ultra” of all contrivances, while others, less
honest, were evidently only seeking a word of commenda-
tion, which would go far towards establishing their hum-
bug in the confidence of the easily deluded public. It is
often unpleasant to refuse so simple a favor as a trial of a
hive, but although furnished gratis, there are seldom good
points enough about them to make it worth the trouble;
and further, it is not desirable to have many different pat-
terns in one yard. None but the experienced can realize
the importance of this last consideration, especially where
movable combs are used. Besides, many of these hives are
a positive damage to the bee-keeper. I think it will be
an easy matter to show that when one desirable point has
been gained by a departure from simplicity, it is usually
attended by a corresponding evil.
NECESSITIES OF THE BEES.
All variations from the simple box are for the benefit of
man, not of the bees. The wants of the bee are few and
simple. <A suitable cavity for the combs is all that is re
quired. In good seasons, instinct will prompt the collec-
tion of a greater supply than is needed for winter. I will
HIVES. 49
guarantee that more honey will be stored in a barrel, box,
or hollow log, just large enough to hold all that is gathered,
than in any patent fixture ever presented for this special
purpose. It is just as rational to contend, that, with the
same facilities, bees will store more in your barrel than in
mine, as that they will store more in one patent hive than
another.
GREAT DISCOVERY FOR PATENT-VENDERS.
When honey is stored in the apartment where brood is
raised, it is liable to be mixed with occasional cells of pol-
len, and cocoons left by the young bees. The discovery
that by making a division in the hive, that part separate
from the brood would be free from all impurities, opened
an ample field for speculation, and different methods of
making the necessary division were at once invented. The
chamber hive was probably the first of the kind.
PRINCIPLES OF DIFFERENT HIVES.
Then, to prevent the depredations of mice, the suspend-
ed hive was contrived. Soon after, the inclined bottom
board was added to throw out the worms. When it was
discovered that bees destitute of a queen would rear one
from eggs destined for workers, dividing hives of various
forms were at once presented. Comb used a great many
years becomes thickened and black, and needs changing ;
hence the changeable hive. ‘“ Non-swarmers” have been
introduced to save risk and trouble. ‘“ Moth-proofs ” are
offered to prevent depredations of the moth, etc. etc. I
will examine some of the principles upon which these are
founded, and then give my views of a good hive.
CHAMBER HIVE.
The chamber hive is made with two apartments, the
lower and larger for the permanent residence of the bees,
3
50 HIVES.
the upper or chamber for the boxes. Its merit is, that
the chamber affords all. necessary protection for glass
boxes, and is a permanent cover. Its demerits are: it is
inconvenient to handle, it occupies too much room when
put in the house for winter, and only one end of the boxes
can be seen when on the hive. They can not be properly
examined without taking them off, and thus disturbing the
bees.
SUSPENDED HIVE.
The suspended hive may effectually exclude the mice,
and answer all the purposes for which it was designed,
but there are evils originating in this very advantage that
may counterbalance it. The inconvenience of inspecting
the hive at any time may induce a habit of neglect that is
often fatal to success. When all the cares of an apiary
are as light as possible, there is too great neglect of duty ;
hence necessary attention should be as little burdensome
as possible.
INCLINED BOTTOM BOARD.
The inclined bottom board for rolling out the worms—
the basis of several patents—may be said to be an utter
failure. Worms are not disposed of so easily, for when
one drops from the comb, if it ever does, it has a thread
attached above, by which it may climb to its former posi-
tion. Should it be dead when it falls, or so cold that it
can not spin a thread, a strong wind might shake it off—
and what then? The objections to this are the same as
to the suspended hive. They are a damage to whoever
uses them, aside from the expense of right and construction.
DIVIDING HIVE.
The dividing hive was constructed to multiply stocks at
pleasure. The fact that bees would rear a queen to replace
HIVES. 51
one lost, gave rise to some very wild speculations. To
make a hive in two parts, and when full, separate them,
making two, and then put an empty half with each full one,
on the presumption that the portion without a queen
would rear one, was a theory that seemed very well until
put in practice. I made a hive of this kind, and a Mr.
Jones, a little later, did the same, and obtained a patent,
but when they came to be put to the test of practice, we
were taught a lesson. A medium-sized swarm put into such
a hive will first fill one side down with nearly all brood
combs, and this apartment will, most of the tiie, afford
all the room needed for breeding. When they commence
in the other, they will build store-combs, the cells being
too large for rearing workers. A swarm large enough to
fill both sides at once will do better, but it will construct
more store-combs than are profitable. In many cases
when the colony is divided, the result will be no brood in
one apartment from which to raise a queen, and a strong
probability that the old queen is with the brood, and the
part without her must therefore run down. If by chance
there is sufficient brood from which to raise a queen, so
small a part of the comb is fit for breeding that they can
raise but few bees, and the colony will remain weak and
thriftless for a short time, and then die. I also found that
a colony would often starve with abundant stores. Bees
take up their winter quarters among the brood combs, in
the apartment where there is but little honey ; if it is all
exhausted during protracted cold weather, they must
starve. Only frequent intervals of warm weather, or
warm winter quarters, can avert such a fate.
CHANGEABLE HIVE.
The very kind effort to prevent the bees from becoming
dwarfs, has given rise to many forms of the changeable
hive. We all know that when the young bee first hatches
52 HIVES.
from the egg it is nothing but a worm, that it is fed a
few days, and the cell containing it sealed over with a
waxen covering. It then spins a cocoon, or lines its cell
with a coating of silk, inconceivably thinner than the thin-
nest paper, which remains after the bee leaves the cell. It
is evident, therefore, that after a few hundreds have been
reared in a cell, each one leaving its cocoon, such cell
must be somewhat diminished in size, and after a time be-
come so small that the young bee cannot attain to its
proper size. It therefore needs to be removed that the
bees may replace it with one of full size. This is all very
consistent, and were it not that the patent-vender takes
advantage of the bee-keeper, through ignorant or design-
ing misrepresentation, I might have but little to say on
this point.
The most simple form of this class of hives consists of
several stories one above another, with holes or cross-bars
for communication, each section or story forming a hive
five or six inches deep. Every year a full one is taken
from the top, and an empty one added at the bottom. As
there are usually about three, they are changed every
three years, consequently none of the combs are over
three years old. The one taken off usually contains the
most honey. But of what quality is it? It is even in-
ferior to some pieces that may be selected from the box
hive. Every comb and nearly every cell must, at some
time, have been used for breeding, consequently they con-
tain either cocoons or pollen, and are not desirable or fit
for the table until strained. A hive of this class is one of
the worst in which to winter bees. It is objectionable on
the same score as the dividing hive—bees in one part and
honey in another. Every hive on this principle is open to
the same objection, whether the sections are placed one
above another, or upright, side by side. Hives of this
kind may be considered the most pernicious of any, They
HIVES. 53
rob us of a goodly quantity of surplus honey, compel us to
hazard greater risk in wintering, and cause the consump-
tion of several pounds of honey for the renewal of a por-
tion of the comb every year. And what are our returns?
In their most prosperous condition, some thirty pounds of
inferior hive honey. When properly managed, this same
colony would probably store a much larger amount of
pure surplus, the market value of which would be ten
times greater than that of the other. It will not do to
reckon the value of new comés as an equivalent for all this
sacrifice. I can assure the reader that there is no profit
in such frequent renewal of the combs. All experienced
and disinterested bee-keepers will bear testimony to this.
Bees hatched from combs used for breeding a dozen years,
are not dwarfed enough for the difference to be’perceived.
The bees seem to make a provision for this emergency by
making the sheets of comb a little farther apart than ne-
cessary at first, and the diameter of the cell a little greater
than the young bee requires. The angles of the cells fill
up in time, and as the bottom fills up faster than the sides,
the bees add a little to the length, until the ends of the
cells upon two parallel combs approximate so closely that
the bees can not pass freely; before this time it is unneces-
sary to remove combs on account of age.
I find it estimated by writers that twenty-five pounds of
honey are consumed in elaborating about one pound of
wax. This may be an over-estimate, but no one will deny
that some isused. I am satisfied from actual experience,
that every time the bees are obliged to renew their brood-
combs, they would make from ten to twenty-five pounds
of honey in boxes; hence I infer that their time may be
much more profitably employed than in constructing brood
combs every year. _
Now, to have the bee-keeper deluded into the belief
that by paying fer the privilege of injuring his bees, he is
54 HIVES.
benefiting himself, is too much for ordinary patience. I
have said nothing about the expense of construction,
which is, at least, three times that of common box hives,
and it is nothing but a box hive after all. This item alone
is worthy our attention.
VENTILATING HIVE.
In cold weather, bees throw off moisture that lodges on
the combs and sides of the hive, and causes mold. The
patent-vender is at hand with several specifics for getting
rid of it. The most effectual that I have seen—Mr. Fur-
long’s—is a hive with cross-bars at the top to support the
combs, and panes of glass set up like the roof of a house,
on which the moisture condenses, and runs down into a
little trowgh of tin, which conducts it outside of the hive.
This hive is much more tolerable than the dividing hive
just mentioned, as this method of disposing of the moist-
ure is preferable to the open holes. Were it not for the
fact that the same result can be secured quite as effec-
tually at far less expense, this hive might be desirable.
(See description of box hive with straw mat for top in
chap. XxIII.)
MOTH-PROOF HIVES.
To keep the worms from the hive, has exercised the
ingenuity of our accommodating gentlemen of the patent
fraternity, for a long time, and they “ have succeeded be-
yond all expectations.” The noticeable feature in men of
this stamp is, that the less they know about bees the more
they presume to teach others. In fact, one who is at home
on the subject, does not believe a word of their profes-
sions. He sees well enough that a moth can go wherever
a bee can go, and that when the bees are gone, or too
weak to drive them away, the worms are present. The
worms can not destroy a strony colony of bees, especially
HIVES. 55
if Italian, although the hive may be the most rickety old
box imaginable, with hiding places for worms on every
square inch. Put this by the side of the best finished
“‘ Moth-proof,” and the chances are that the moths, or
rather worms, will dispose of the latter first.
NON-SWARMERS,
A perfect non-swarmer has not yet been constructed,
although we often hear it talked about. I heartily wish
that one could be devised which would answer the re-
quirements, and furnish the surplus in good shape for
market. I have offered $100 for one that would not fail
in more than one instance in ten. It is not forthcoming,
however, showing that those who talk most of their abili-
ty to invent, have no confidence in their own profession.
The only place in which one can put bees and not expect
them to swarm, is a small dark room, and a few have been
known to swarm even then. But here, the surplus is
made on the outside of the hive, and is of unequal thick-
ness, and in all shapes, thus being unsuitable for market.
Uhave tried the experiment of putting on boxes, as on
other hives, but they seem to ignore them entirely, making
combs at random on all parts of the hive.
‘When a person wishes to keep a few bees for the sake
of the honey for home use, and wants the least possible
trouble with them, he will probably be satisfied with this
hive. But if he expects to sell a few thousand pounds, he
does not want it in such an unsalable shape. I contrasted
the profit of such a hive, with that of a swarming hive, in
the first edition of this work, but I made one mistake, of
which an interested party has taken the advantage, giving
an unfair representation to show the non-swarmer the most
profitable. Instead of comparing a swarming hive with a
true non-swarmer, placed as I have represented, he as-
sumes a hive to be such, when it occasionally fails to
56 HIVES.
swarm, and estimating the surplus in boxes that a good
hive would yield, he contrasts this profit with what I
gave as about one-third of the average yicld of a swarm-
ing hive in good seasons. He simply changed the question
to one not under consideration at all. I mention this to
show that the statements of interested parties should be
received with caution. I shall now make a similar esti-
mate, but to prevent similar misrepresentations, I will give
a little nearer the true yield of a swarming hive. Recol-
lect, I speak of the real non-swarmer, in a small dark
room. We start with one hive worth $5; at the end of
ten years it is worth no more. The chances of its failing
before that time we will not take into the account. We
get annually, say, $5 worth of surplus—it will not be likely
to be worth more, considering the shape itis in. This,
with the value of the hive, will amount to $55, We will
suppose that the swarming hive throws off one swarm an-
nually, and stores $5 worth of surplus. To be moderate,
we will call the average $2. The swarms will sometimes
store $20 worth, but we will call their surplus worth $2
each. Commencing with an old hive that gives an increase
the first year, at the end of ten years we have 1024 hives.
These at $5 each, are worth $5,120. At $2 each, the sur-
plus brings $4,092, which, added to the value of the hives,
gives a total of $9,212, as a result to compare with $55.
To prevent any misapprehension on this point, I will state
that in this illustration, I do not intend to be understood
that any one will realize such a profit, but it serves to
show the relative advantages of swarming and non-swarm-
ing hives.
It is said that many of the pretended “ non-swarmers ”
can be converted into swarmers, in two days, at the option
of the apiarian. Colton could place on his hive six large
boxes at one time, containing nearly 3,000 cubic inches.
By removing these at any time when there were bees
HIVES. 57
enough to fill them all, the room was so much contracted
that the swarm was forced out at once. This was found
to be more theory than fact, when put in practice. Bees
do not generally swarm without previous preparation of
at least a week. This hive, in one respect, is better than
most patents. The large amount of room in the boxes,
which might sometimes tend to prevent swarming, gives
all the bees an opportunity to labor when they do not
swarm, and consequently more surplus honey is stored on
such occasions. I understand that the “‘ Farmer’s Hive,”
patented by Mr. Hazen, is on the same principle. Any
amount of room in a hive will not prevent swarming. If
they fill from 1600 to 2000 cubic inches with combs the
first season, they will swarm the next, nine times in ten,
if the season is favorable, without adding any new combs,
although there may be ample room for them. To test
this, I placed under five full hives of 2000 cubic inches, as
many empty ones of the same size, without the top. I
had a swarm from each. Only two had added any new
comb, and these but little, showing that ample room will
not prevent swarming. These hives swarmed when there
was room to make comb—some before any was commenc-
ed, others just afterwards. Therefore, it is idle for any
one to flatter himself with a prospect of success in such
experiments, without an entire change in the conditions.
When a very large hive has been provided for a double,
or extra large swarm, and they fill it the first season, they
seldom swarm. They seem to have sufficient room in the
large number of combs ready made, for all they can do,
and there is no necessity for their emigration. The tyro
asks what becomes of the bees raised in the course of sev-
eral years. The answer in full will be found in another
chapter, and I will only notice here, that after a certain
maximum number is attained, there is no farther increase.
They gain nothing in number from one May until the next.
3%
58 HIVES.
I believe that with the exception of the Movable Comb
Hive, I have now noticed all the principles worthy of at-
tention, involved in patent hives. I will now speak of a
class of hives that will pay better when put in use.
COMMON BOX HIVE.
I will first notice a hive in the simplest form. It has
been called the “Quinby Hive,” because it was the only
one recommended in the first edition of this work, but the
title has not always been given in a complimentary spirit.
T have no claims whatever to this hive, as it was made and
used long before my day. J recommend its use with some
little alteration, but it is no more a “ Quinby” hive than
two or three others that I intend now to recommend. I
have studied for years to secure the greatest amount of
profit with the least possible expense, so that when I ob-
tained five or ten dollars worth of honey, I need not pay
it all for the hive and its appendages. I would keep a
few colonies for amusement and instruction alone, but
when I increase the number to hundreds, it is with the sole
intention of making money out of them. I presume that
very many of my readers are actuated by similar motives.
I shall again recommend the box hive as the best and most
economical for a large proportion of bee-keepers—those
who have no interest, time, or patience to study the science
of bee-keeping—till they can give a philosophical reason
why they should use a different hive. One desirable fea-
ture about this hive, is, that no one has to pay for the
right of using it.
PROPER SIZE OF HIVE.
After deciding upon the kind of hive, the next impor-
tant point is the size. Dr. Bevan, an English author,
recommends “eleven and three-eighths inches square, by
nine deep, in the clear,” making only about 1200 inches,
HIVES. 59
and requiring so little honey for wintering bees, that’when
Tread it, I found myself wondering if the English inch
and pound were the same as ours. Whatever his expe-
rience, I think this size too small for bees in any place.
We must remember that the queen needs room for all her
eggs, and the bees need space to store their winter pro-
visions ; for reasons before given, these should be in one
apartment. When this is too small, their supply of food
is liable to be exhausted. The swarms from such hives
will be smaller, and the stock much more liable to acci-
dents. Yet Ican imagine how one can be deceived by
such a small hive, and recommend it strongly, especially if
patented. Suppose you locate alarge swarm in a hive
near the size of Dr. Bevan’s; the bees will occupy nearly
all the room with brood combs. If you put on boxes, and
as often as full, replace them with empty ones, the amount
of surplus honey will be great; a very satisfactory result
for the first summer, but in a year or two yout little hive
is gone. As we enlarge our hives, this result is modified,
until we reach the opposite extreme, which is equally un-
desirable. If too large, more honey will be stored than is
required for their winter use, of which it is evident that a
portion might have been secured, had it been stored in
boxes. Swarms issuing from such hives will not be propor-
tionably large, and issue but seldom. They are of but
little profit, in surplus honey or swarms, but have the ad-
vantage of being long lived. ;
Between the two extremes, as in most other cases, is
found the correct medium, A hive 12 inches square inside,
containing 1728 cubic inches, has been recommended as of
the best size. This, I think is large enough in many sec-
tions, as the queen probably has all the room necessary for
depositing her eggs, and the swarms are more numerous,
and nearly as large as from much larger hives; there also is
room for honey sufficient to carry the bees through the
60 HIVES.
winter, at least in many sections south of 41° where the
winter is somewhat short. This size will also do in this
latitude, (42°) in some seasons, but not at all in others.
Not one swarm in fifty will consume 25 pounds of honey
through the winter, that is, from the last of September to
the first of April. The average consumption in that time
is about 18 pounds, but the critical time is later, about the
last of May, or first of June, in many places. In latitude
42° and 43° they commence collecting pollen and rearing
their young about the first of April; by the middle of May
all good stocks will occupy nearly if not quite all their
brood-combs for this purpose. But little honey is obtained
before fruit blossoms appear, and when these are gone, no
more of any amount is collected until the appearance of
white clover, some ten days later. If during this season of
flowers of fruit trees there should be high winds, or cold
rainy weather, but little honey is gathered, and our bees
have a numerous brood on hand that must be fed. In this
emergency, if no honey remains from the stores of the pre-
vious year, a famine ensues; they destroy their drones,
perhaps some of their brood, and for aught I know put
the old bees on short allowance. This I do know, that
sometimes whole families have actually starved at this sea-
son. This, of course, depends on the season; when
favorable, nothing of the kind occurs. Prudence, there-
fore, dictates a provision for this emergency, by making
the hive a little larger for northern latitude, permitting the
storage of more honey, to take them through this critical
period. From a series of experiments I am satisfied that
2000 cubic inches inside is the best size for this section.
On an average, swarms from hives of this size are as large
as any. The dimensions should be uniform in all cases,
whatever size is decided upon. It is folly to accommodate
each swarm with a hive corresponding in size; a very
small family this year may be very large next, and the
HIVES. 61
contrary the year following. A queen belonging to a
small swarm is capable of depositing as many eggs as one
belonging to a very large colony. A small colony which
is able to get through the winter and spring, may be ex-
pected to be as large as any, another season,
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING BOX HIVES.
Select one-inch boards of the proper width to make the
hive about square, of the desired size, say 12 inches square
inside, by 144 deep. I prefer this shape for the box hive,
but it is not all-important. I have had some 10 inches
square, by 20 in length; they were awkward looking, but
I could not discover any difference in the prosperity of their
occupants. I have also had them 12 inches deep by 13
square, with the same result. A neighbor has used them
12x18, and 10 inches deep, with much satisfaction. One-
third more room could be obtained for boxes, with this
shape. Jn seasons when no swarm issues, the great
number of bees present would thus find employment. If
we avoid extremes, and give the required room, the form
can make but little difference. It has been advised to
plane the boards for hives, “inside and out,” but bees
when first put in such a hive, experience much difficulty
in holding fast until they get their combs started, hence
this trouble is worse than useless. When hives are not
painted, the grain of the wood should never run crosswise,
having the width of the boards form the height ; not that
the bees would have a dislike to this, but nails will not hold
firmly, and will draw out in a few years. The size, form,
materials, and manner of putting together, are now, I
think, sufficiently understood. Sticks half an inch in diam-
eter should cross each way through the centre, to help
support the combs. A hole about an inch in diameter in
the front side, half way to the top, is a great convenience
to the bees coming home heavy laden. It is also essential
62 HIVES.
when the hive is sct close to the board, on account of rob-
bing. It is likewise necessary to lower the hives to confine
the animal heat as much as possible, when the bees are
engaged in rearing young brood in cool weather, as
warmth is necessary to hatch the eggs and develop the
larve. Those who desire it, can make an additional en-
trance to the hive, by boring a few holes in the side close
to the bottom.
TOP OF HIVE NOT FASTENED.
Instead of nailing a top to the hive, as I have heretofore
recommended, with holes through which the bees may as-
cend to the boxes, I would suggest that there be slats across
the top to support the combs, about three-fourths of an
inch wide, by half an inch thick, and half an inch apart,
one quarter inch below the top of the hive. Four or five
strips, one quarter inch square, laid at equal distances
crosswise the slats, will be just even with the top of the
hive. The surplus boxes can be set on these, and the bees
will find their way into them sooner than through holes in
atop board. The queen is more liable to go up and de-
posit eggs, but not quite as much so, as if the boxes were
directly on the slats, and there is not much risk after the
hive is about full of comb, before the boxes are added,
which it should be. If such hive is to stand in the open
air for the winter, it will admit of a straw mat on the top,
after the boxes are off, or the cap may be packed full of
hay, straw, or corn-cobs, to receive the moisture.
A box for a cover or cap, 14 inches inside, will fit any
hive. The height of this cap should be 7 inches. Of
course other sizes will answer, but if we commence with
one that we can adhere to uniformly, no vexations will
arise by covers not fitting exactly. Where a double tier
of boxes is used, covers must be made to fit. This cover,
when on the hive, may rest on a strip of wood three-
HIVES. 63
fourths of an inch square, nailed around on the outside,
one inch below the top of the hive.
BEST SURPLUS HONEY BOXES.
Having told how to make the hive, I will give some
reasons for preferring a particular kind of boxes. I have
taken great quantities of honey to market, put up in every
style, such as tumblers, glass jars, glass boxes, wooden
boxes with glass ends, and boxes all wood, “and have
found the square glass boxes to be the most profitable.
The honey in these appears to very good advantage, so
much so that the majority of purchasers prefer to pay for
the box at the same rate as the honey, to taking the wood
and haying the tare allowed. This rate of selling boxes
always pays the cost, while we get nothing for the wood-
en ones. Another advantage in this kind of boxes is that
the progress can be watched, and the boxes removed as
soon as filled, thus preserving the purity of the combs.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE HONEY BOXES.
Select thin boards of pine or other soft light wood,
dress down to one-fourth of an inch thick, cut the pieces
for the top and bottom of the box, twelve and three quar-
ter inches long, and six and three-eighths wide. Bore a
row of holes in the center of the bottom. If the top of
the hive is a board with holes through, make those in the
box to match. Next get out the corner posts, five-eighths
of an inch square, and five inchesin length. For receiving
the glass, cut with a thick saw a channel lengthwise on two
sides, one-fourth of an inch deep, and one-eighth inch
from the corner. A small lath nail through each corner
of the bottom into the posts will hold them. It is now
ready for the glass. Get 10x12, cut them through the
centre, the longest way for the sides, and again the other
way, five and five-eighths long, for the ends. These can
64 HIVES.
now be slipped into the channels of the posts, the top
nailed on like the bottom, and the box is complete. Boxes
one-half or one-third this size are preferred by many cus-
tomers, but the bees will, store more honey in large than
small ones. I have a method of holding the glass in place
by means of pieces of tin, but it has so little advantage
over those just noticed, that it is hardly worth while to
describe it minutely.
GUIDE COMB.
It will be found of great advantage, previous to nailing
on the top, to stick fast to it guide-comb, in the direction
you wish the bees to work. This will also induce them to
commence work several days sooner than if they had to
start the combs themselves. Put in as many as you wish
combs in the boxes. Pieces an inch square will do, and
two inches is about the right distance apart. To fasten
them, melt one edge by the fire, or melt some bees wax
and dip one edge in that, and apply before it cools. For
a supply of such combs, save all empty, clean, white pieces
when removing combs from a hive.
For home consumption the wooden box answers equally
well for obtaining the honey, but gives no chance to watch
the progress of the bees, unless a glass is inserted for the
purpose, which will need a door to keep it dark, or a cov-
er over the whole like the one for glass boxes. Wooden
boxes are generally made with open bottom, and set on
the top of the hive. A passage for the bees directly from
the box to the open air is unnecessary, and worse than
useless. They like to store their honey as far from the en-
trance as possible. Unless crowded for room, .they will
not store much in the boxes when such entrances are
made, Whether we intend to consume or sell our surplus
honey, it is as well to have the hives and covers inade so
that we can use glass boxes when we choose.
HIVES. 65
When jars, tumblers, or other glass vessels are used, it
is absolutely necessary to provide as many guides as you
wish combs made, or secure a piece of wood inside, as
they seldom commence building on glass, without some
such inducement. The reader may have seen paraded at
our fairs, or in the public places in some of our cities, hives
sontaining tumblers, some of them neatly filled, others
ampty, with the magic sentence written upon them “ ot
to be filled,” as if they were pretending to govern the bees
by mysterious incantations, as a juggler sometimes per-
forms his tricks.
I have termed the cap or box, a cover, but this
should also. be covered, with a board, if nothing else.
A good roof for each hive can be made by fastening
—_ two boards together
= like the roof of a
E 7 building; let it be
8 about 18x24 inches;
: being loose, its posi-
Fig. 8.—R0oF. tion can be varied in
accordance with the season. In spring, let the sun
strike the hive, but in hot weather let the roof project
over the south side, etc. The boxes described, can be used
on any of the hives yet to be mentioned.
SOME DESIRABLE THINGS NOT FOUND IN BOX HIVES.
Every bee-keeper has found that there are several
things desirable in a bee-hive that the makers of many im.
proved hives never think of. He has seen stocks most
promising in spring, containing the brightest combs, just
the right amount of stores, and a strong colony of bees,
begin to dwindle without any apparent cause, and has
wished for some means by which he could inspect the in-
terior, and ascertain whether the queen was lost or barren,
or the brood diseased. He has often, in autumn, had col-
66 HIVES.
onies with too little honey for winter, and at the same
time other hives with an over supply, and would like to
be able to transfer some of this surplus to the light stock.
He has wished for an increase by swarming, and his
bees have remained clustered outside the hive, refusing to
swarm, the whole summer. He would welcome any inven-
tion by which he could divide them safely and profitably.
His bees would over-swarm, sending out many small
ones not worth hiving, and ruining the old stock. How
could he remedy this evil? He has found some swarms
constructing entirely too much drone-comb, making the
hive unprofitable ever afterwards, from the multitude of
drones reared. How desirable sometimes to substitute
worker for drone comb, and make it a profitable stock.
When the moth-worm has gained a lodgment in the
combs, could he have access to the interior, he could at-
tack them in their stronghold.
There are times when it is desirable to know exactly
how much honey is on hand. If he could examine the
surface of each comb he could determine without difficulty.
In some seasons he has known colonies to so fill their
brood-combs with honey, as to allow too little space for
breeding, consequently the colony would be small, and all
the open cells would not furnish room enough for them to
pack themselves away for winter. He sees no remedy for
these evils in the common hive.
MOVABLE COMB HIVE
To the Rev. L. L. Langstroth, belongs the credit of in-
troducing to us the hive that will accomplish all these desi-
rable results. Several others have given us hives on the
same principle, which effect the same purpose. So
many really advantageous points are combined, without
interfering with any of the natural wants of the bee, that
those of us who appreciate the requisites of a bee hive,
HIVES. 67
and can take advantage of all the facilities offered, can
hardly afford to do without some one of these forms, not-
withstanding they are covered by a patent.
SOME OF ITS ADVANTAGES,
Each comb, instead of being attached to the top of the
hive, is suspended in a frame, and the top is simply laid on
loosely. When the bees are dwindling away, and we
wish to ascertain the cause, whether queenless, etc., we
can take off the top, smoke the bees a little, raise out a
comb, and make the necessary examination. Thus, we can
also detect the presence of diseased brood. We have
only to take a frame from a full hive, and transfer it to
the light one and the reverse, to benefit both. To make
an artificial swarm, it is only necessary to divide the combs,
(See chapter x1.)
When one swarm has issued, we can, seven days after,
take out the combs and cut off all queen cells but one, and
swarming is stopped for the season. When too much
drone comb is constructed, cut it out, and substitute
worker comb in its place, fastening it in the same manner
as in transferring from the box to the movable comb hives.
All suitable comb should be saved for this and similar
purposes. The path of the moth-worm in the comb can
be traced to his lurking place, and he can be dragged forth
to the slaughter without difficulty. The smallest amount
of sealed honey can be seen at a glance. The amount of
brood that the colony shall raise may be controlled; instead
of limiting the area of comb used for that purpose, to a
very small space, it may be enlarged to any extent by re-
moving full, and giving empty combs. Notwithstanding
the danger of receiving more stings, and the greater ex-
pense of construction, there is a class of bee-keepers un-
derstanding the value of these conveniences, who will
make it pay to use them.
68 HIVES.
MOVABLE COMB HIVE AS USED BY THE AUTHOR.
I will give a full description and manner of making one,
modified by myself from Langstroth’s, being much more
simple. But he claims that it is not changed sufficiently
to be released from his patent.*
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING.
I make the hive as follows. Get boards twelve and a
half inches wide, and one inch in thickness; cut two
lengths twenty-one and a half inches, and two, twelve inches.
If to be -painted, they are planed on both sides, other-
wise only inside—these hives having frames on the inside
to assist the bees in holding fast, the smooth surface does
no harm, and has the advantage of saving the bees the
trouble of waxing over the rovgh places. The two shorter
pieces are rabbeted out on the inside upper edge a halt
inch, to receive the ends of the frames. The whole is now
thoroughly nailed together, making a box without top or
bottom. The inside is just 12x19} inches and 123 deep.
At the bottom, in one end, is an entrance three or four
inches long, by one-fourth inch deep, also an inch hole half
way to the top. The stand and roof are made like those
described for the box hive, only longer. The frames for
the inside—the point constituting the superiority of the
*Iam not lawyer enovgh to decide the point, nor whether the other patents
for movable combs are infringements upon his. Therefore I do not wish any
one to take the trouble to write to me for an opinion. Iaminstructed, however,
by the owners of several patents, to advise any one disposed to use their hive with
no opportunity to purchase right, 1o use it without hesitation, and when the owner
calls on them, if they are ready to pay for an individual right, no harm can
be done. It is generally quite agreeable to have their value thus appreciated.
That the reader may have an opportunity of choosing among a variety of hives
of this class, I will give the address of several patentees of hives, to whom he
may apply for a description :
L. L. Langstroth, Oxford, Butler Co., Ohio.
S. Ide, East Shelby, Orleans Co., N. Y.
T. 8, Underhill, Williamsport, Lycoming Co., Pa.
W. C. Harbison, Chenango, Lawrence Co., Pa.
Mr. M. Stillwell, Manlius, Onondago Co., N. ¥.
HIVES. 69
hive,—are made as follows: First, get out a triangular
piece of wood, each side an inch, and eighteen inches
long; nail this to one one-fourth inch thick, one inch wide,
and twenty and one-fourth long. Each end then projects
Fig. 9.—SIMPLE MOVABLE COMB HIVE.
beyond the triangular piece one and one-eighth inch.
Next, gét two strips seven-eighths inch wide, by one-fourth
inch thick, and eleven inches in length, for the ends, then
one for the bottom seven-eighths wide, three-eighths
thick, and eighteen inches long, to correspond with the
triangular piece at the top. Use small finishing nails, and
drive through the ends of the short pieces into the ends
of the triangular piece and of the straight piece forming
the bottom of the frame. When finished, we have a frame
70 HIVES.
eighteen inches long by ten deep, inside. This will go
down into the. hiya; and Jeave a uae inch space between.
the end of.. the
frame and the hive.
The strip that is
nailed to the tri-
angular one, with
projecting ends,
rests onthe rab-
beting and sup-
ports it. This is
Fig. 10.—MOVABLE FRAME. the only part that
touches the hive. Eight of these frames will go in a hive
that is twelve inches wide, one and one-half inch being
the right distance from centre to centre. To keep them
from swinging together at the bottom, a stick one-fourth
by three-eighths of an inch is put across the middle of the
hive three-eighths of an inch from the bottom, with wire
braces in this form. Two small mortises, \AAAAA AAS
one-fourth inch deep, hold it in place. pig. 11.—wire BRact:
It may be put in after the hive is to- 10 SUPPORT FRAME.
wether, by bending it a little. ‘ Very small annealed wire
will do, cut into pieces long enough to reach through, and
turn over to the upper side, to hold it firmly The
points or angles should be just one and one-half inch
apart, and the bottom of the frame should come down be-
tween them, within three-eighths of an inch of the piece
of wood. If it is desired to have the hive smaller than the
above, the places of one or two frames may be filled by
a board of the right size; this is better than to vary the
size of the hive. It is best to have covers to the boxes all
alike, so as to fit all hives.*
* There may be occasions where it is desirable to have very large hives, such
as will hold from 12 to 15 frames. I would suggest that it would be economy
for some colonies to have full employment in the hive, in constructing comb and
HIVES. val
The top or honey-board easiest made, is a board 214
inches long, by 14 wide, and three-fourths inch thick,
clamped at the ends, with inch holes for passages to the
boxes. Such boards are not reliable; notwithstanding
the clamps, they will sometimes warp sufficiently to let a
bee slip out. Another one that will keep its shape better,
is made of several pieces. Two of them are twenty-one
and a half inches long, by one and one-half wide; the
others eleven inches long, two six inches wide, and two
four inches. They are nailed to-
gether in this form. The open
spaces are for the passages into
the boxes which set over them,
and are covered with a box that
fits the outside of the hive, rest-
ing on a piece one-half or three-
fourths inch square that is nailed
around the hive one inch from the top.
This is the hive that I use principally, and like it rather
better than I do Mr. Langstroth’s. He has fixtures about
his, that must be considered more ornamental than useful,
and for which the bees will not perform any extra labor.
I am not sure but there are other hives conforming to this
principle that would suit me on the whole as well as this.
There are some that seem to offer greater conveniences,
but cost more. Had I begun with such, I should probably
have continved, instead of changing for the more simple
one that I have adopted. The convenience of having all
Fig. 12. —HONEY BOARD.
storing winter supplies for those that are deficient. In sections where there is
considerable clover and buckwheat, it would he well to have them employed in
the hive during the yield of buckwheat, which is of inferior quality, and brings
Jess in market; and get as many combs made and filled as possible, that we
may give hives nearly filled, to swarms the next season. We may then put on
boxes at once, and there being but little room in the hive, the bees must of ne-
cessity store their honey there. This will be the purest quality of clover honey,
which would otherwise have been used for the elaboration of wax to fill the
hive with combs,
72 HIVES.
the hives alike is great, and to change all would involve
an undesirable expense. I will notice some of the dif-
ferent forms, and the reader may decide for himself, which,
under the circumstances, suits him best, and let this be an
answer to all who would write me to inquire which I con-
sider the best hive.
With the shape of the hive, and arrangement of the
frames, I am satisfied. The depth is all that the comb
will sustain when filled with honey, and the greater length
of each requires a less number to fill the hive. The bees
will store the back end with honey, and rear their brood
in the front end, and use nearly every comb for both pur-
poses. This is the rule in properly managed stocks,
When winter approaches, there are empty cells in the
front end, and honey cnough in the other, to last through
the cold weather, without obliging the bees to change
from one comb to another to obtain it. They have only
to move backward as the honey is consumed, on the same
principle that they would move upward, in a hive deeper
from top to bottom than from front to back. I would not
have these frames the longest way up and down for two
reasons. Firstly, you could not raise a frame 20 inches in
length out of the hive and return it, without hitting the
sides occasionally, and arousing the bees. Secondly, there
would be too little room on the top for the boxes. When
horizontal, there is one-third more room on the top for
this purpose. Most of these movable comb hives are
nearly square, which shape does not suit me. Some of
them have ten or twelve frames, seven or eight inches in
depth, by fourteen or fifteen in length. Towards fall,
only a part of these, in the middle of the hive, will contain
brood; the outside combs are filled throughout with
honey. The middle combs contain but little, and the bees
begin the winter here. If they are in the cold, and con-
sume the little honey there is in these centre combs, they
HIVES. 13
are quite sure to starve before getting « supply from the
outside ones. A winter passage from one comb to the
other, is very essential when they are housed, but does
not insure their safety in the open air.
Of course any bee-hive can be ornamented accord-
ing to the fancy of the maker. The plain strip
around the top to support the cap, may be a heavy ogee
molding, or that cut into dentils would present a tasteful
appearance. The cap to cover the boxes may be orna-
mented in the same way, giving the whole a finished ap-
pearance, with but little trouble or expense. When
painted let the color be light, and put it on long enough
before using, to allow the rank smell of the oil to be lost.
To all who use any of the movable comb hives of
suitable shape, I would recommend, as a matter of econo-
my, that they make the straw hive also for wintering in
the open air, transferring in the beginning of winter. The
inside should measure the same every way as the wooden
hive, or a very little larger. None of these hives are very
good for wintering bees out of doors, without at least a
straw mat for the top, similar to the one recommended by
Mr. Harbison.
STRAW HIVE FOR WINTERING BEES,
The straw hive that I use is made as follows: First, get
out four posts, two inches square, and ten and a half inches
long. Then, from an inch board make four strips, two
inches wide and twenty-four and a half long, and four of
the same width, sixteen and a half inches long. With
these, make two flat frames, 16} < 203 inside, by mortising
or halving at the corners. Now, set a post at each corner,
and nail through into the end, and the same with the
other frame at the other end of the posts, and you have a
frame ready to receive the straw. Nail a lath around the
middle, inside, another close to the bottom, and one at the
4
74. HIVES.
top, letting the ends lap on the posts just enough to be
held with a nail. Select straight smooth straw,—rye is
best—cut it just 10} inches long, moisten it a little, lay the
hive on its side, and put the straw on the lath, till a little
more than full, requiring some pressure to make it even
with the posts. Some screw or lever is necessary to press
it firmly. Laths corresponding with those inside are to be
nailed outside, to hold it. Thicker pieces would, per-
haps, do better. Pieces 1} inches square sawed in halves,
diagonally, would do very well, or pieces turned in a lathe,
a UT
as = >
wre <== oa fi
{ as |
TA
eh
iN
ih i d |
Fig. 13.—straw HIVE FOR WINTER.
with beads and moldings, cut in two, and the flat side laid
next the straw, would improve the appearance.
A strong box to just fit the inside is quite necessary to
keep the lath in place while pressing the straw. It is also
necessary that the two middle laths are fastened together
by a small annealed wire, to keep them from bending from
the resistance of the straw when out of the press. The
wire should be put on the inner one, and the ends remain
projecting through the straw as it is laid on. When the
HIVES, 15
outside piece is nailed on, and before the pressure is re-
laxed, the wire should be passed around it and twisted to
hold it firmly. The ends need nothing of the kind. Make
a mat for the top, by framing together vertically, four
pieces similar to those used for the hive, rabbet out the
end pieces on the lower edge one-fourth inch square, to
hold the ends of the three laths to be nailed on at equal
distances apart. The straw is filled in and pressed, and
pieces nailed over, like the sides just described. Mr. Stil-
well has a hive similar to this in principle, (the shape of
which I do not like, however,) in which the straw is beld
by sewing with heavy twine, the manner of holding the
straw forming the base of a patent. Whether it is better
on the whole, I am unable to say.
For the Leaf or Underhill hive, or any, where the body
of combs is separate. from the hive itself, a straw box with
the top fast to it can be made just large enough to cover
the frames. The wooden box for summer ‘is simply to be
lifted off, and the other set over.
Glass inserted on one or all sides of a hive, makes it
very interesting, but as we now have the movable comb,
whereby the interior of the hive may all be brought to
light, it 18 of less consequence than when we were obliged
to depend on external observations for all our knowl-
edge of the internal arrangements of the hive.
OBSERVATORY HIVE.
The perfect observatory hive, however, can not fail to
be highly interesting to all who feel a curiosity to behold
the interior of a bee hive. It can be arranged so readily
with one or more frames from a full hive, that all who wish
can have one. One comb the size that I use, and a part
of a swarm, will exhibit all the phenomena of a full hive.
If several frames are used, they may be arranged accord-
ing to fancy or convenience, one above another, or some
%6 BEE PASTURAGE.
above, and others at the ends. A mechanic will construct
a special frame to hold them, and a glazed sash to cover
each side, giving two inches space between, for the comb.
The sash on one side should be movable, that the comb
can be changed occasionally, and if more than one is used,
that they may all be removed to a regular hive for winter,
as such observatory hives are not suitable for cold weather.
CHAPTER IV.
BEE PASTURAGE.
During the warm days of spring, while the winter’s
snow is melting away, and before the flowers have appear-
ed, the bees seem anxious to be at work. It is then inter-
esting to watch them, and ascertain what they will use as
substitutes for pollen and honey.
SUBSTITUTE FOR POLLEN.
At such periods I have seen hundreds engaged upon a
heap of saw-dust, gathering the minute particles into pel-
lets on their legs, and seeming quite pleased with the
acquisition. Rotten wood, when crumbled into dry pow-
der, is also collected. Flour scattered near the hive is
taken up in large quantities. Concerning the utility of
flour as a substitute for pollen, I have now had considera-
ble experience. Yet much depends on the locality, num-
ber of the bees, and quantity of snow. Where there ar
but few bees, and little snow, the early flowers appear so
soon after the bees begin to fly, that flour is of but little
advantage. But when the number of bees greatly exceeds
the supply, the flour should be given during pleasant
days, to promote early breeding, and establish habits of
BEE PASTURAGE, vie
industry, as well as to prevent marauding, which is very
important.
To feed it advantageously, make a floor a few feet
square, with a curb around, three or four inches high,
to prevent waste. When practicable, feed rye, ground
very fine, and unbolted. The bees seem to like to work
out the flour and fine particles from among the bran, bet-
ter than to work in clear flour. Yet the latter will do
when the former is not to be obtained, but should be
mixed with.cut straw or saw-dust. The bran left by the
bees may be fed to other stock. When the flowers yield
pollen in sufficient quantities, they will no longer take the
flour. It should be remembered that flour feed is only
advantageous in the earliest part of the season. Unless
it can be given then, it is useless to take the trouble.
SUBSTITUTE FOR HONEY.
A substitute for a small quantity of honey is found in
the sap of a few kinds of trees. A syrup made from su-
gar is a very good substitute for honey.
MANNER OF PACKING POLLEN.
The particular manner of packing pollen has been sat-
isfactorily witnessed by but very few persons, as the oper-
ation is mostly performed on the wing, thereby preventing
a fair chance for minutely inspecting it. When collecting
pollen only, they light upon the flowers, and pass rapidly
over the stamens, detaching a portion of the dust, which
lodges on most parts of them, and is brushed together,
and packed into pellets when they are again on the wing.
While the bees are gathering flour, the process is more
readily seen.
The Italians may often be seen appropriating old
pits of comb-that have been squeezed together, and
propolis from old boards of broken hives. They merely
78 BEE PASTURAGE.
bite off little particles, and pack them on their thighs, be.
fore they rise on the wing. As soon as a load is obtained,
they immediately return to the hive, each bee bringing
several loads in a day. Honey, as it is collected, is depo-
sited in the abdomen, and kept out of sight until stored in
the hive.
The time that bees commence their labors in the spring
does not by any means govern the time of swarmirg ; this
depends upon the weather through April and May.
FLOWERS THAT YIELD THE FIRST POLLEN.
The first material gathered from flowers is pollen.
Common or Candle Alder, (Alnus serrulata) and Skunk
Cabbage, (Symplocarpus feetidus,) yield the first supply.
In this latitude (42°) their time of flowering varies from
March 10th to April 20th. The amount of pollen they
afford is also variable. Cold freezing weather frequently
destroys a great portion of the flowers after they are out.
The staminate flowers of the alder are nearly perfected
the previous season, and a few warm days in spring will
develop them before any leaves appear. When the weather
continues fine, great quantities of pollen are secured. Our
swamps produce several kinds of willows (Salix) that put
out their blossoms very irregularly. Some of these bushes
are a month earlier than others, and some of the buds on
the same bush are a week or two later than the rest.
These also afford only pollen, but are a much more sure de-
pendence than the alder; a turn of cold weather can not
at any time destroy more than a small proportion of the
flowers. The Aspen, (Populus tremuloides) which comes
next, is not a particular favorite with the bees, as but few,
comparatively, visit it. It is followed very soon by an
abundance of the Red Maple, (Acer rubrum,) that suits
them better, but this, like some others, is often lost by
freezing.
BEE PASTURAGE. 79
FIRST HONEY.
The first honey of any account is obtained from the
Golden Willow, (Salix vitellina); which is seldom injured
by frost. Gooseberries, currants, cherries, pear and peach
trees contribute a share of both honey and pollen. Sugar
Maple, (.lcer saccharinum) throws out its ten thousand
beautiful silken tassels with a bounteous yield of tempting
nectar. Strawberries modestly open their petals in invi-
tation, but like “ obscure virtues,” are often neglected for
the more conspicuous Dandelion, and the showy and fra-
grant blossoms of the Apple, which now open their stores,
and offer to the bees a real harvest.
FRUIT FLOWERS IMPORTANT.
In good weather, a gain of 20 pounds is sometimes ad-
ded to the hives during the period of apple blossoms.
But we are seldom fortunate enough to have continuous
good weather, as it is often rainy, cloudy, cool or windy,
all of which conditions are very detrimental. A frost will
sometimes destroy all, and the gain of our bees is reversed,
that is, their stores are lighter at the end than at the be-
ginning of this season of flowers. Yet this season often
decides the prosperity of the bees for the summer. If
there is good weather now, we expect our first swarms
about June Ist; if not, no subsequent yield of honey will
make up the deficiency.
We now have a time of several days, from 10 to 14, in
which there are but few flowers. If our hives are poorly
supplied when this scarcity occurs, it will so disarrange
their plans for swarming, that no preparations are again
made much before July, and sometimes not at all. In
sections where the wild cherry, (Prunus serotina) abounds,
these flowers will appear, and fill the period of scarcity
which this section annually presents. The Locust, (Robinia
Pseudacacia), blossoms at this time, and where it is suffi-
80 BEE PASTURAGE.
ciently abundant, is valuable as bee food, while it is also
well worthy of cultivation for timber.
RED RASPBERRY A FAVORITE.
The Red Raspberry, (Rubus strigosus) now presents
the stamens as the most conspicuous part of the flower,
soliciting the attention of the bee, by pouring out the
bounteous libations so highly prized by our industrous in-
sect. For several weeks they are allowed to partake of
this exquisite beverage ; it is secreted at all hours, and in
all kinds of weather. When the morning is warm, we
often hear their cheerful humming among the leaves
and flowers of this shrub, before the sun appears above
the horizon. The gentle shower, sufficient to induce man
to seek shelter, is often unheeded by the bee when luxuri-
ating among these flowers; even white clover, important
as it is in furnishing the greatest part of the stores, would
be neglected at this season, if the raspberry only yielded
a full supply. Clover begins to blossom with the rasp
berry, and continues longer.
HONEY FROM RED CLOVER.
Red clover probably secretes as much honey as the
white, but the tube of the corolla being longer, common
bees appear to be unable to reach it. Ihave seen a few
at work upon it, but it appeared to be slow business. The
Italians work on it sometimes, apparently out of choice.
Sorrel, (Rumex acetosella), the pest of many farmers, is
brought under contribution by the bees, and furnishes
pollen in any quantity. Morning is the only part of the
day appropriated to its collection. "5
CATNIP ONE OF THE BEST HONEY YIELDING PLANTS.
Catnip (Nepeta Cataria), Mother wort, (Leonurus Cardi-
aca), and Hoarhound (Marrubium vulgare,) put forth
BEE PASTURAGE. 81
their flowers about the middle of June, rich in sweetness,
and like the raspberry, the bees visit them at all hours,
and in nearly all kinds of weather. They remain in bloom
from four to six weeks ; in a few instances I have known the
catnip to last twelve, yielding honey during the whole time.
If there is any plant that I would cultivate especially for
honey, it would be catnip. I find nothing to surpass it.
Borage has been recommended as yielding abundantly,
and worthy of cultivation, but the profusion of flowers
produced by the catnip, seems to excel it. The Alsike or
Swedish white clover has also much to recommend it.
The plant being valuable for soiling cattle, or for hay,
would be a desirable acquisition to the bee-keeping farmer,
as well as to others on whose land it will thrive. It does
not do well on sandy soil, with me.
Ox-eye Daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare), a beautiful
flower in pasture and meadow, and worth but little in
either, also contains some honey. The flower is compound,
and each little floret secretes so minute a quantity that the
task of obtaining a load is very tedious. It is only visited
when the more copiously honey-yielding flowers are scarce.
The Toad-flax or Snap-dragon, (Linaria vulgaris), with
its disagreeable odor, troubling the farmer with its vile
presence, is made to bestow the only good thing about it,
except its beauty, upon our insect. The flower is large and
tubular, and to reach the honey the bee must enter it. To
see the bee almost disappear within the folds of the corolla,
one would think it was about being swallowed, but it soon
emerges, covered with dust, unharmed, from the yellow
prison. This is not brushed into pellets on its legs, like
the pollen from some other flowers, and some adheres to
its back, between the wings, which it is apparently unable
to remove, as it often remains there for months. Bush
Honey-suckle, (Diervilla trifida), is another particular fa-
vorite. .
4k
82 BEE PASTURAGE.
SINGULAR FATALITY ATTENDANT ON SILKWEED.
Silkweed, (Asclepias Cornuti), is another honey-yielding
perennial, buta singular fatality befallsmany bees while gath-
ering honey from it, that I never have seen noticed. Ihave
observed during the period this plant was in bloom, that a
number of the bees belonging to hives not full, were unable
to ascend the sides to the comb ; there would be some times
thirty or more at the bottom in the morning. On searching
for the cause, I found from one to ten thin yellow scales, of
a long pear-shape, and about the twentieth part of an inch
long, attached to their feet. At the small end was a black
thread-like substance, from a sixteenth to an eighth of an
inch in length; on this stem was a glutinous matter, that
firmly adhered to each foot or claw of the bee, preventing
it from climbing the sides of the hive. I also found this
appendage attached to bees clustered outside of full hives,
but it appeared to be no inconvenience to them. Among
the scales of wax, and waste matter that accumulates
about the swarms to some extent, I found a great many
of these scales which the bees had worked from their feet.
The question then arose, were these scales a foreign sub-
stance, accidentally entangled in their claws, or was it a
natural formation? It was soon decided. From the
number of bees carrying it, I was satisfied that if it were
the product of any flower, it belonged to a species some-
what abundant. I made a close examination of all such as
were then in bloom. I found the flowers of the Silk-weed
or Milk-weed, sometimes holding a dead bee by the foot,
secured by this appendage. Both sepals and petals of this
flower are turned backward towards the stem, forming
five acute angles or notches, just the trap for a bee with
this attachment. When at work, they are very liable to
slip a foot into one of these notches; the flower being thick
and firm, holds it fast, and pulling only draws it deeper in the
wedge-like cavity. The appendage which causes so much
BEE PASTURAGE. 83
trouble to the bees, is the pollen of the Silk-weed, which
in all the species has a singular form. Instead of being, as
is the case in most flowers, a fine dust, the pollen grains
are stuck together in little waxy masses or scales, and these
are joined together in pairs by the thread-like appendage
above noticed. These masses are, in the flower, each
lodged in a little pouch with only the attachment exposed,
and were it not for the agency of bees and other insects,
the pollen would not be dislodged from these pouches and
brought in contact with the pistil of the flower. When I
point out a loss among bees, I would like to give a reme-
dy, but here I am unable to do so. I am not sure but
honey enough is obtained by such bees as escape, to coun-
terbalance the loss.
Whitewood, (Liriodendron Tulipifera), yields some-
thing eagerly sought for by the bees, but whether honey
or pollen, or both, I have never ascertained. Mr. Harbi-
son asserts it to be honey. Ihave never examined the
flowers. It is very scarce in Montgomery and Greene
Counties. Mr. Langstroth speaks of it as “one of the
greatest honey-producing trees in the world. As its blos-
soms expand in succession, new swarms will sometimes fill
their hives from this source alone.”
BASSWOOD VERY IMPORTANT.
Basswood, (Zilia Americana), is abundant in some pla-
ces, and yields honey clear and transparent as water, of a
delicious flavor, with a perceptible, yet not unpleasant
taste of mint. During the time this tree is in bloom, a
period of two or three weeks, in many sections, astonishing
quantities are obtained when the weather is favorable. It
is less likely to be cut off by bad weather, than other blos-
soms. A person once assured me that he had known ten
pounds of honey collected in a day, while this was in
flower, by one swarm. I have seen a statement by a wri-
84. BEE PASTURAGE.
ter in Wisconsin, that “hives have increased in weight
one hundred pounds while this tree was in bloom.” I
think these statements are quite as large as can be credited.
J have no comparable experience. I have weighed hives
during the seasons of apple blossoms, buckwheat and clo-
ver, the best source of honey wherever I have kept bees,
and three and one-half pounds is the greatest yield I ever
found in one day. Asa shade tree, Basswood, or as some-
times called, Linden, ranks with the finest. It is hardy,
and bears transplanting better than most kinds, This
stately tree with its graceful clusters of fragrant flowers,
adorns village or country grounds, while the soft music of
the industrious bee, among the branches, is attractive to
the dullest ear. The honey resources of the country might
be greatly increased by planting such trees.
Sumach, (Aus glabra), is rich in its quality and yield
of honey. The shrubs coming into bloom in succession,
the supply is protracted beyond the duration of one set of
blossoms. Mustard, (Sinapis nigra), is also a great fa-
vorite. Its cultivation is remunerative for its seed alone,
and when we add the advantage that it isto the bees, there
seems to be a sufficient inducement to cultivate it.
Thave now mentioned most of the honey-producing trees
and plants, which bloom before the middle of July. The:
course of these flowers is termed the first yield. In sec-
tions where there are no crops of buckwheat, it con-
stitutes the only full one. Other flowers continue to bloom
until cold weather. Where white clover is abundant, and
the fields are used for pasture, it will continue to throw
out fresh flowers, sometimes, throughout the entire sum-
mer, yet the bees consume about all they collect, in rearing
their brood, etc. Thus, it appears, that in some sections
the bees have only about six or eight weeks in which to
provide for winter.
BEE PASTURAGE. 85
HONEY DEW. .
Honey dew is said to be a source whence large collections
are made in some places. When or where it appears or disap-
pears, is more than I can tell, from my own experience.
Twelve years ago, I expressed what was taken for doubt ot
the existence ofany such substance. To enlighten'me on the
subject, and give ocular demonstration, some of my friends,
living where it was found, have kindly sent me specimens
—leaves covered with it—for my inspection. It appeared
and tasted as if some saccharine substance somewhat dilu-
ted, had been spread evenly over the upper side of the leaf,
and the watery particles had evaporated. I have seen de-
scriptions of it as found somewhere, well towards the
Golden State, that exceeded any thing I ever heard of in
the Eastern States? It was described as covering leaves
and branches in such quantities as to bend them down
with the excessive weight. The quantity was so great as
to induce an effort to collect it by hand. The question as
to its origin has been pretty thoroughly discussed without
arriving at any particularly clear conclusion. It is generally
attributed to the Aphis or Plant Louse. It will be seen
that this theory of its origin will account for only a part
of the phenomena. Some years ago, in the month of Au-
gust, I noticed on passing under some willow trees, (Salix
Vitellina), that the grass and stones were covered with a
wet or shining substance. I found that nearly all the
smallest branches were covered with a species of large
aphis, apparently engaged in sucking the juices, and oc-
casionally discharging a minute drop of a transparent
liquid. I guessed this might be honey dew. I visited the
place again after sunrise, to see if there were any bees
collecting it. I found them in hundreds, together -with
ants, hornets, and wasps. Some were on the branches with
the aphis, others on the leaves, and some on the grass and
stones. This liquid, ejected by the aphis when sucking
86 BEE PASTURAGE.
the juices of tender leaves or branches, and received by
ants that are usually in attendance, is probably the
honey dew of many writers. Ants, instead of bees, gen-
erally collect it. These insects have been very appropri-
ately termed “ ants’ cows,” as they are regarded by them
with the most tender care and solicitude. In July or Au-
gust, when the majority of the leaves of the apple trees
are matured, there are often a few sprouts or suckers about
the lower part of the trunk, that continue growing and
putting out fresh leaves. On the under side of these, you
will find this insect by hundreds, of all sizes, from those
just hatched to the perfect aphis. All appear to be en-
gaged in sucking the bitter juice from the tender leaf and
stalk, ‘The ants are among them by scores. The careless
observer often accuses them of doing the injury instead of
the aphis. Occasionally there will issue from the abdo-
men of the aphis a small transparent globule, which the
ant is ready to receive. When a load is obtained, it de-
scends to the nest. Many other kinds of trees and plants
are used by the ants as “‘ cow pasture,” and most kinds of
ants are engaged in this dairy business. Wonld the bees
attend the aphis for this secretion if the ants left any to be
gathered? Or, if there were no ants or bees, would this
secretion be discharged and falling on the leaves below
them, be honey dew? If they were situated on some lof:
ty trees, and it lodged on the leaves of small bushes nearer
the earth, it would be considered such by some.
UNUSUAL SECRETION.
I once discovered bees collecting a secretion unconnect-
ed with flowers, but which was not honey dew, as it has
been described. I was passing a bush of Witch-hazel,
(Hamamelis Virginiana), and my atiention was arrested
by an unusual humming of bees. At first I supposed that
a swarm was about me, yet it was late in the season, July
BEE PASTURAGE. 87
25th. On close inspection, I found numerous warty ex-
crescences upon the bush, of the size and shape of a hick-
ory nut. These proved to be only shells, the inside being
lined with thousands of minute insects, a species of aphis.
These appeared to be sucking the juices, and discharging
a clear transparent fluid. Near the stem was an orifice
about an eighth of an inch in diameter, out of which this
liquid exuded gradually. So eager were the bees for this
secretion, that several of them crowded around one orifice
at a time, each endeavoring to thrust the other away.
This occurred several years ago, and I have never been
able to find any thing like it since, neither have I learned
whether it is common in other sections.
Within a few years past, a species of aphis has appeared
on the grain in many sections, covering the straw in
myriads, sucking the juices and secreting at the time a
saccharine substance, which is collected by the bees. Cor-
respondents from some of the Western States, particularly
Wisconsin, write that the bees gather large quantities of
this, and that as winter food it proves unhealthy, causing
dysentery, etc. I have received numerous applications for
aremedy, but as I have not had the least experience, I
cannot advise. This secretion being more animal than
vegetable, is an unnatural aliment for the bee, and as
might be expected, is unhealthy. According to the pre-
diction of Dr. Fitch, this race of insects will soon disappear,
and our bee-keeping friends may expect better times. I
remember hearing it predicted when I was a boy, that a
certain winter would “be a bad one for bees,” because
they were seen obtaining honey dew from hickory leaves.
The question arises, Was the effect of an unnatural sub-
stance taken by the bees forty years ago, similar to that
produced by the secretions from the aphis in later years?
All this does not explain the origin of honey dew, unless
we admit two or more sources. Honey dew is found in
88 BEE PASTURAGE.
the open field where no tree is standing above to shower
it upon leaves below. It is found on leaves, having no
traces of the aphis near them. How did it get there?
Did the leaves secrete it? Iam not yet ready to admit
this. Ifleaves produce it, why is it not found in this section ?
In passing I have not mentioned garden flowers, because
the amount obtained from them, especially ornamental
flowers, is inconsiderable, compared to that from forest
and field. It is true that the Hollyhock, (Althea rosea),
Mallows, (Malva rotundifolia), Mignonette, (Reseda
odorata), and many others yield honey, but of small ac-
count. A person who expects to have his hives filled from
such a source, will be very likely to be disappointed, un-
less his number of stocks is very limited.
We will now notice the flowers that appear after the
middle of July. The Button-ball, (Cephalanthus ociden-
talis) is much frequented for honey. Also our vines—
melons, cucumbers, squashes and pumpkins. The latter
are visited only in the morning, and honey is the only
thing obtained. Nothwithstanding the bee is covered with
farina, it is not kneaded into pellets on its legs. I have
seen it stated that bees get pollen early in the morning,
instead of honey. It is not best to always take our word,
about such matters, but examine for yourselves. Take a
look some warm morning, when the pumpkins are in
bloom, and see whether it is honey or pollen of which
they are in quest.
Under some circumstances, clover will continue to
bloom through this part of the season, and a few other
flowers also, but J find by weighing, a loss from one to six
pounds between July 20th and August 10th, at which time
Buckwheat usually begins to yield honey, which generally
proves a second harvest.
BEE PASTURAGE, 89
BUCKWHEAT HONEY.
In several counties in this State, so little of this grain is
raised, that the honey can not be found in the hive or
boxes. Butin many places it is the main dependence, the
bees seldom getting more than a winter supply from the
early flowers. This honey is considered by many to be of
inferior quality. Its color, when separated from the comb,
resembles molasses of medium shade. The taste is more
pungent than that of clover honey ; it is particularly prized
on that account by some, and disliked by others for the
same reason. When swarms issuing as late as July 15th,
commence on buckwheat, they will sometimes contain not
more than five pounds of stores, and yet make good stocks
for winter, whereas without this yield, they might not live
through October. This crop fails about once in ten years,
I have known a swarm to gain sixteen pounds in one week,
and construct comb to store it in at the same time. I
once had a swarm issue August 18th, that obtained 30
pounds in about eighteen day s. But such buckwheat
swarms, in ordinary seasons, seldom get over 15 pounds.
The buckwheat flowers last from three to five weeks. The
time of sowing varies in different sections, from June 10th
to July 20th. Farmers wish to give it just time to ripen
before frost, as the yield of grain is considered better,
but as the time of frost is a matter of uncertainty, some
sow several days earlier than others. Whenever an abun-
dant crop of this grain is realized, a proportionable quanti-
ty of honey is obtained.*
DO BEES INJURE THE GRAIN?
Many people contend that bees are an injury to this
crop, by taking away the substance that would be formed
* A friend informs me that, in 1863, the bees in some parts of Albany Co., N.
¥., refused to swarm before buckwheat blossomed, and that between the Ist
and 10th of August he had one hundred swarms. Many of them stored abun
dance for winter, and gained considerable surplus ; in some instances, 28 lbs.
90 BEE PASTURAGE,
into grain. The best reasons that I have obtained for such
an opinion, are these: ‘I believe it, and have thought so
for along time.” “It is reasonable, that if a portion of
the plant is taken away by the bees, there must be less
material left for the formation of seed, etc.” Most of us
have learned that a person’s opinion is not the strongest
kind of proof. Are the above reasons satisfactory ? How
are the facts? The flowers open, and honey is secreted,
If the bee does not lick it up, it dries up and is wasted.
Now, what is the difference to the plant, whether the
honey is lost in this way, or is collected by the bees?
If there is any difference, the advantage appears to be in
favor of collection by the bees, for the reason that it thus
answers an important end in the economy of nature, con-
sistent with her provisions in ten thousand different ways
of adapting means to ends. Most breeders of domestic
animals are aware of the degeneration induced by in-and-in
breeding, and that a change of breed is necessary for im-
provement, etc. Vegetable physiology seems to indicate a
similar necessity among plants. The stamens and pistils
of flowers answer for the two sexes in animals. The pistil
is connected with the ovaries, and the stamens furnish
the pollen that must come in contact with the pistil; in
other words, it must be impregnated by this dust from the
stamens, or no fruit will be produced. Now, if it be ne-
cessary to change the breed, or essential that the pollen
produced by the stamens of one flower shall fertilize the
pistils of another, to prevent barrenness, what could we
contrive better than the arrangement already made by
Him who knew the necessity, and planned it accordingly !
And it works so admirably that we can hardly avoid the
conclusion that this was an important part of the design
in creating bees. Their food consists of honey and pollen;
each flower secretes but a little, just enough to attract the
bee, for nothing like a full load is obtained from one;
BEE PASTURAGE. 91
were it otherwise, the end in view would not be answered.
A hundred or more flowers are often visited in one excur-
sion, and the pollen obtained from the first may fertilize
many others previous to the return of the bee to the hive.
By such a cross-fertilizing, a field of buckwheat may be
kept in health and vigor in its future productions, A
field of wheat produces long slender stalks that bend to
the breeze, and one ear is made to bestow its pollen on an
ear several feet distant, thereby effecting just what bees
do for buckwheat. Corn, from its manner of growth, the
upright stalks bearing the stamens some feet above the
pistils on the ears below, seems to need no agency of bees ;
the superabundant pollen from the tassel is wafted by the
wind several rods from the stalk that produces it, and
there does its work of fertilizing the distant ear, as is
proved by the mixing of different varieties at some dis-
tance.
BEES NECESSARY TO INSURE A CROP.
But how is it with the vines trailing on the ground, a
part of the flowers producing stamens, the others pistils ?
It is absolutely essential to produce fruit, that pollen from
the staminate flowers shall be introduced into the pistillate
ones; if this fails to occur, the germ will wither anddie. In
the bee we have an agent ready for the purpose ; both stami-
nate and pistillate flowers are visited promiscuously by it, the
pollen, not being kneaded into pellets, (particularly that from
pumpkins,) adheres to every part of the body, rendering
it next to impossible for the bee to enter a pistillate flower
without leaving a portion of the fertilizing dust in its pro-
per place. Hence it is reasonably inferred by many, that
if it were not for this agent among our vines, the uncer-
tainty of a crop from non-fertilization, would render their
cultivation a useless task. When the aphis is located on
the stalk or leaf of a plant, it is furnished with means to
92 BEE PASTURAGE.
pierce the surface, and extract the juices essential to its
formation, thereby preventing a vigorous growth and full
development. This idea is too apt to be associated with
the bee when it visits the flower, as if it were armed with
a spear, to pierce bark or stem, and rob it of its nourish-
ment. An examination of the structure of the bee will
show us that this cannot be the case. Its slender, brush-
like tongue, folded closely under its neck, and seldom seen
except when in use, is not fitted to pierce the most delicate
substance; all that it can be used for is to sweep or lick
up the nectar as it exudes from the flower ; this is secreted
for no other purpose, it would seem, than to attract the bee,
The most delicate petal receives no injury while the bee is
using the instrument nature has provided for obtaining
the sweets. During one excursion the bee seldom visits
more than a single species of flower; were it otherwise,
and all kinds were visited promiscuously, the fertilizing of
one species with the pollen from another, would be quite
likely to produce some hybrids among plants. Writers,
when noticing this peculiarity of instinct, cannot be con-
tent, but must add other marvels. They follow this trait
still farther, and make the bee store every kind by itself in
the hire.
TWO KINDS OF POLLEN STORED IN ONE CELL,
With regard to honey it is not easy to ascertain; but
pollen is of different colors, generally yellow, but some-
times pale-green, and reddish or dark-brown. I think a
little patient inspection will satisfy any one that two
kinds are sometimes packed in one cell. I will admit that
two colors are seldom found thus, but it is sometimes the
case. I have found it thus, and proved this assertion
worthless.
BEE PASTURAGE, 93
NO TEST OF TIIE PRESENCE OF THE QUEEN.
It is asserted that “if a hive loses its queen, no pollen
is collected.” Also, “that such quantities are sometimes
collected, and so many cells are filled, that too little room
is left for brood, and the stock rapidly dwindles in conse-
quence.” ‘The first of these assertions has been offered as
a test to determine the presence of a queen. My bees
have such a habit of doing wrong, that it is no test what-
ever. I think I can explain the mystery of a stock
containing an unusual quantity of bee-bread with the
honey, and show that instead of this being the cause of a
scarcity of bees, it is the effect. Stocks and sometimes
swarms lose their queen in the swarming season—(see par-
ticulars in chap. x,) when, instead of remaining idle, they
collect the usual quantity of pollen and honey. There
being no larvae to consume the pollen, the consequence is,
more than half the breeding cells will contain it; they
will be packed about two-thirds full, and finished out with
honey. I have known large families to be left under such
circumstances, and about all the cells in the hive were thus
occupied. Whereas, in a stock contaiing a queen, and
rearing brood, a portion of the combs will be used for this
purpose until the flowers fail, when such comb will be
found empty. In order to ascertain whether this extra
quantity of the bee-bread was so very detrimental, I have
introduced into such hive in the fall, a family with a queen,
wintered them in it, and watched their prosperity another
year, and never found them unprofitable on that account.
I am so well satisfied of this that whenever I now have a
hive in such a situation, I make it a rule to introduce a
colony with queen.
It is generally calculated that when medium sized hives
are full, about seven-eighths of the cells are of the proper
size for raising workers; the remainder, except a few de-
signed for queens, are of the size for drones.
94 BEE PASTURAGE.
BEE BREAD SELDOM PACKED LIN DRONE CELLS.
Bee bread is generally exclusively packed in the worker
cells. I might as well remark here, that when taking combs
from a hive filled with honey, if such pieces were selected
as contained drone cells, there would be but little risk of
finding bee-bread ; the outside sheets, and the upper cor-
ners of the others are next best. The sheets of comb used
principally for raising workers, and the cells adjoining
those used for breeding, for an inch or two in width, are
nearly all packed with pollen, and much of it will remain
when the breeding season is past. Smaller portions are
found in the worker cells in nearly all parts of the hive;
even the boxes will sometimes contain a little.
MANNER OF DISCHARGING POLLEN.
In a glass hive the bees may be seen depositing their
loads of pollen. The legs holding the pellets are thrust
into the cell, and a motion like rubbing them together is
made for half a minute, when they are withdrawn, and the
two little loaves of bread may be seen at the bottom.
This bee appears to take no farther care about them, but
another will soon come along, enter the cell head first, and
pack it close. The cell is filled about two-thirds of its
‘length in this way, and when sealed over, a little honey is
used to fill it out. To witness the operation of depositing
honey, a glass hive or box is requisite, as the edges of the
combs will be attached to the glass.
DISCHARGING HONEY.
When honey is abundant, most of these half cells next
the glass will contain some. The bee goes to the bottom
of the cell, deposits a particle of honey, and brushes it in-
to the corners or angles with its tongue, carefully exclud-
ing all the air. As it is filled, that next the sides of the
cells is kept in advance of the centre. This is just as a
BEE PASTURAGE. 95
philosopher would say it should be done. If it were filled
at once, and no eare taken to attach it to the sides, the
external air would not keep it in place, as it now does,
effectually, when the cell is of ordinary length. When
the cell is about one-fourth of an inch deep, they often
commence filling it, and as it is lengthened, they continue
to add honey, keeping it within an cighth of an inch of
the ends, it is never quite full, till nearly sealed over, and
often not then. In worker cells the sealing seldom touches
the honey. But in drone cells the case is different. The
honey on the end touches the sealing about half way up.
It is kept in the same concave shape while being filled,
but being in a larger cell, the atmospheric pressure is less
effectual in keeping it in its place; consequently, when
they commence sealing these cells, they begin on the low-
er side, and finish at the top. When storing honey in
boxes, cells of this size are usually much longer, in which
case they are crooked, the ends turning upward, some-
times half an inch or more. This, of course, will prevent
the honey from running, but if the box is taken off, and
turned over before such cells are sealed, they are very sure to
lose much of their contents. The drone cells of ordinary
length, in the breeding department, will hold the honey
well enough as long as they remain horizontal, but turn
the hive on its side, and bring the open end downward,
in hot weather, or break out a piece and hold it in that
position, the air will not keep the honey in place, but will
do so in the worker cells.
SOME CELLS CONTAINING HONEY FOR DAILY USE.
I never examined a hive, fully supplied with bees and
honey, in winter or summer, but it had a number of un-
sealed cells containing honey, as well as pollen, unless it
was destitute of a queen. They will always have some
cells open for daily use, even if they have stored a large
96 BEE PASTURAGE.
quantity in boxes, and are so crowded for room as to
store honey outside, or under the bottom boards.
COMBS CONSTRUCTED AS NEEDED.
Young swarms seem unwilling to construct combs faster
than needed for use. This would appear, at first thought,
to be a lack of economy. When no honey is obtained,
and there is nothing to do, it would seem to be well to
get ready for a yield, but this is not their way of doing
business. Whether they can not spare the honey already
collected to elaborate the wax, or whether they find it
more difficult to keep the worms from a large quantity of
comb, I shall not presume to decide. If honey is abun-
dant, large swarms, when first located, will extend their
combs from top to bottom in a little more than two weeks,
but such hive is not yet full. Some sheets of comb may
contain honey throughout their entire length, and not a
cell be sealed over, but the bees generally find time to
finish up to within a few inches of the lower end as they
proceed. Whenever unfinished cells contain honey, it will
generally be removed soon after the flowers fail, and used
before that which is sealed, and the cells will remain empty
till another year.
BEST SEASON FOR HONEY.
The inquiry is often made, ‘‘ Which is best for bees, a
wet or dry season?” I have studied this point very
closely, and have found that a medium between the two
extremes produces the most honey. When farmers begin
to express fears of a drought, then is the time, if in the
season of flowers, that most honey is usually obtained, but
if dry weather is much protracted, the quantity is greatly
diminished. Of the two extremes, a very wet season is
perhaps the worst.
BEE PASTURAGE. 97
HOW MANY STOCKS MAY BE KEPT.
“What number of stocks can be kept in one place?” is
a question so often asked that it indicates an unusual in-
terest in the subject. I shall differ more in opinion here,
with some of our best authors, than on most other points.
Mr. Langstroth expresses himself very confidently that
over-stocking has never happened in this country, and
that there is no prospect of it. He gives us, on the au-
thority of Mr. Wagner, the number of stocks to the
square mile in many sections of Europe. I will give one
or two items. “In the Kingdom of Hanover, 141 stocks,
are estimated to the square mile.” ‘In the Province of
Atica, in Greece, containing 45 square miles, 20,000 hives
are kept.” ‘* A Province in Holland contains 2000 colon-
ies per square mile.” 2
The honey yielded from the flowers in this section,
(Montgomery Co., N. Y.,) in 1863 would have supported
but a small part of that number, through the season. As
it was, we had too few and too many. Let me explain.
From about the 15th to the 30th of June, clover yielded
honey, and the bees seemed to improve the time, indus-
triously storing the usual quantity. I presume that during
this period, thrice the number would have done equally
well. Those who have recommended keeping such large
numbers must have had such a yield as this in view. In
Eurepe, where so many are reported to be kept, it must
be thus throughout the season. But with us, after the
latter date, but few plants produced honey; even Bass-
wood seemed to yield but little. A few plants, such as
catnip, motherwort, and silkweed, furnished enough to
have kept a half dozen colonies in thriving condition, but
when this amount was divided among hundreds, there was
not enough to keep all alive. When buckwheat blossom-
ed, there was perhaps enough for half a dozen hives to the
square mile, and this number might have shown results
98 BEE PASTURAGE.
equal to those in Albany Co.,—50 pounds to a colony—as
the flowers appeared to yield abundantly, each hive ob-
taining five or six pounds. Is it not evident that we were
overstocked after July 1st? The summer of ’64 gave a
bounteous yield of honey until July 10th, when the supply
was diminished, probably by drought. I say probably,
because we can not always tell to what cause to attribute
the greater or less abundance of the supply. Before said
date, any number of colonies, apparently, would have done
well, but since that time, one-tenth of the actual number
kept would have collected the whole. yield. Yet it was
profitable to keep about fifteen to the square mile. It will
always be impossible to know exactly how many can be
kept; some seasons produce bounteously, others, a partial
supply, and some almost none at all. As it is difficult to
tell beforehand what to expect, it is well to exercise some
caution. Whoever begins with excessive numbers, must
expect sometime to be overtaken with serious disaster.
The sight of a hundred or two colonies, actually starving
in December, is rather unpleasant to a sensitive ain,
One must lay up a store of fortitude, in prosperous times,
to last him through such seasons of discouragement.
It is an advantage to keep as large a number as will
possibly do well in one yard. They may be taken care ot
with much less proportional expense. It would not do to
hire a man to take charge of every eight or ten hives, al-
though the average profit of the few would be much
greater than with a large number. ‘One man can take
care of 200 stocks, especially if he uses the movable comb
hive, and the reduction in the expense would more than
balance the larger profits from the smaller apiaries. I
would not advise keeping very large apiaries, until war-
ranted by experience in their care. Also the resources of
a country should be gradually tested. A honey-producing
country may be like a grazing region. One field may
BEE PASTURAGE. 99
pasture ten times as many cattle as another, and the same
difference may be true of pasturage for bees.
PRINCIPAL SOURCES OF HONEY.
There are three principal sources of honey, viz: clover,
buckwheat and basswood. Clover is the only universal
dependence, as that is found almost everywhere, in greater
or less profusion. Buckwheat is the main source in some
places. Basswood is of brief duration, but comes in very
opportunely where it abounds, just as clover begins to fail,
and before buckwheat appears. Where all these are
abundant, there is the true Eldorado of the apiarian. Yet
to find a place where there is a great plenty of both clover
and buckwheat is very difficult. I have failed after along
and patient search. JI find clover, without buckwheat, in
satisfactory abundance. But when I begin to find buck-
wheat, clover correspondingly diminishes. Where buck-
wheat is a universal crop, but little of the surplus honey is
clover, as in the counties of Greene and most of Albany.
The question is asked: ‘‘ What section of country is best
for keeping bees?” It is difficult to answer. In clover
regions the superior quality and enormous crops of honey
in some seasons will give very desirable results, but when
an occasional failure occurs, it is disastrous in the extreme.
In buckwheat sections, there is never a great yield of clo-
ver, but seldom a failure in buckwheat honey.
If the first yield fails, the last usually supplies the defi-
ciency, and all strong colonies will generally have sufficient
winter stores. I have now been speaking of large apiaries.
A section can hardly be found where man can live, where
a few stocks would not thrive, even if no dependence
could be placed on the prominent sources just mentioned.
There will be some honey-yielding flowers in nearly all
places.
100 THE APIARY.
DISTANCE TIIAT A BEE WILL GO FOR HONEY.
Another question of interest is concerning the distance
a bee will travel in search of honey. It is evident that it
will be farther than for purposes of plunder. I have heard
of their being found seven miles from home. It was said
to be ascertained by sprinkling flour on them as they left
the hive in the morning, and discovering the bees thus
marked at that distance from home. When we consider the
chances of finding a bee, even one mile from the hive, this ap-
pears rather dubious ; and likewise, pollen, the color of flour,
might deceive a casual observer, or one who had a case to
sustain. It is difficult to prove that they go three miles.
I think from present evidence that they do not go farther.
The queens and drones, situated that distance apart do
sometimes meet, as is proved by black queens producing
hybrids, but whether one travels the whole, distance, or
they meet each other half way, is not certain. I have my
yards from two and a half to five miles apart. The largest
apiaries should be separated, at least, four miles.
CHAPTER V.
THE APIARY
LOCATION.
One émportant consideration, in the location of an apiar Yo
is in regard to convenience for watching in the swarming
season. If much trouble has to be taken, it is too eter
neglected. Unless the apiary is large, watching need not
occupy one’s whole time, but it may be done in connection
with some other employment, and it is desirable to have
the hives located with reference to this, Although the
THE APIARY. 101
movable combs may be used, and each stock divided as it
is filled, and no swarms expected, yet one will occasionally
issue, making some attention necessary. If possible, the
hives should stand where the wind will have but little ef-
fect, especially from the north west. If no hills or build-
ings offer a protection, a close high board fence should be
put up for the purpose. The saving of bees will pay the
expense. During the first spring months, the stocks con-
tain fewer bees than at any other season. It is then that
a large family is important, to keep the brood warm. One
bee is of more consequence then than a dozen in mid-
summer. When the hive stands in a bleak place, the bees
returning with heavy loads, in a high wind, are frequently
unable to strike the hive, are blown to the ground, and
become chilled and die. <A chilly south wind is equally
fatal, but not sofrequent. When protected from winds, the
hives may front as you choose; east or south is generally
preferred. A location near ponds, lakes, large streams,
etc., involves some loss. Hard winds fatigue the bees:
when on the wing, often causing them to alight in the wa-
ter, whence it is impossible to rise again until wafted
ashore, and then, unless in very warm weather, they are
so chilled as to be past recovery. I do not mention this
to discourage any one from keeping them, when so situat-
ed, because some must keep them thus, or not at all.
Although we can not miss a few lost from each stock, it is
nevertheless a loss as far as it goes.
Whatever location is chosen, it should be decided upon
as early in the spring as possible, because when the chil-
ling winds of winter have ceased for a day, and the sun,
unobstructed, is sending his first warm rays upon the
frozen earth, the bees that have been inactive for months,
feel the cheering influence, and come forth to enjoy the
balmy air.
102 THE APIARY.
LOCATION MARKED.
As they come from their door, they pause a moment, as
if to rub their eyes, which have been so long obscured in
darkness. They rise on the wing, but instead of leaving
in a direct line, immediately turn their heads towards the
entrance of their tenement, describing a circle of a few
inches at first, but larger as they recede, until an area of
several rods has been viewed and marked.
SHOULD NOT BE MOVED.
After a few excursions, and surrounding objects have
became familiar, this precaution is not taken, and they
leave in a direct line for their destination, and return by
their way-marks without difficulty. Man, with his reason,
is guided in the same manner. There are a great many
people who suppose the bee knows its hive by a kind of
instinct, or is attracted towards it, like the steel to the
magnet. At least they act as if they thought so, as they
-often move their bees a few feet or rods, after the location
is thus marked, and what is the consequence? The stocks
are materially injured, and sometimes entirely ruined by
loss of bees. Let us notice the cause. As I have stated,
the bees have marked the location. They leave the hive
without any precaution, as surrounding objects are famil-
iar. They return to their old stand and find no home.
If there is more than one stock, and their own has been
removed from four to twenty feet, some of the bees may
find a hive, but are just as liable to enter the wrong one
as the right. Probably they would not go over twenty
feet, and very likely not that, unless the new situation was
very conspicuous. Ifa person had but one stock, the loss
would probably be less, as every bee finding a hive,
would be sure to be right, and none would be killed, as is
generally the case, when a few enter a strange hive.
Sometimes a stock will allow strange bees to unite with
THE APIARY, 103
them, but it is seldom, unless a large number enters.
When bees are taken beyond their knowledge of coun-
try, some two miles or more, the result is somewhat
different, but not always without loss, especially if many
hives are set too closely together, They leave the hive,
of course, without knowing that the situation has been
changed ; and perhaps get a few feet from it, before strange
objects inform them of the fact. When they return, the
immediate vicinity is strange, and they often enter their
neighbor’s domiciles. Experience has satisfied me that
stocks should occupy their situation for the summer, as
early as possible in the spring, at least before they mark
the location; or, if they must be moved after that, let it
be not less sheen a mile and a half, with plenty of room
between the stands.
SPACE BETWEEN STANDS,
Regarding the distance between hives generally, I
would say, let it be as great as convenience will allow.
Want of room sometimes makes it necessary to set them
closer. Where such necessity exists, if the hives were
dissimilar in color, some dark, others light, alternately, it
would greatly assist the bees in recognizing their own
hive. But it should be borne in mind, that whenever
economy of space dictates less than two feet, there are of-
ten bees enough lost by entering the wrong hives, to pay
the rent of a small addition to a bee-yard. T have several
other reasons for recommending plenty of room between
hives, which will be mentioned hereafter.
SMALL MATTERS.
The reader who is accustomed to do things on a large
scale, will consider so much attention to such a small matter,
rather unnecessary, but attention to little things insures
success. A grain of wheat is insignificant in itself—it is
104 THE APIARY.
only in the aggregate that its importance is manifest. The
bee is small, the load of honey brought home by it, is still
less, and the quantity secreted in the nectary of each flower,
still more minute. The patient bee obtains but a tiny drop
from each, but by perseverance, procures a load and de-
posits it in the hive. It is only in the accumulation of such
that we find an object worthy of our notice. Weare thus
taught to look to little things, and the manner in which
they are multiplied and preserved. It is much better to
save our bees, than to waste them, and wait for others to
be raised. “A penny saved is two pence earned.” Ifa
stock is lost by a little neglect, a corresponding effort is
only necessary to save it. This trifling attention is some-
times neglected through indolence. But I hope for better
things generally. I am willing to believe that it is through
ignorance of the kind of care necessary, and how, when,
and where to bestow it. It seems to be my duty to state
the cause of such losses; therefore make it a rule to have
stands, bee-houses, etc., ready in spring before the bees
leave the hives, and let them remain stationary during the
summer.
If we keep bees for ornament, it would be well to build
bee-houses, paint the hives, etc.; but as I suspect that the
majority of readers will be chiefly interested in the profits,
IT assure them that the bees will not pay a cent towards
extra expenses ; they will not do any more labor in a paint-
ed house, than if it were thatched with straw. When
profit is the only object, economy would dictate that labor
be bestowed only where there is a reasonable prospect of
remuneration.
CHEAP STAND.
So many kinds of bee-houses and stands have been re-
commended, all so different from what I prefer, that I
perhaps ought to feel some hesitaney in offering one so
THE APIARY. 105
cheap and simple; but as profit is my object, I shall offer
no apology. I have thirty years experience to prove its
efficacy, and have no fears in recommending it. I make
stands in this way. For a box hive, a board about fifteen
inches wide is cut off two feet long; a piece of durable
wood two by three inches, is nailed on each end. This
raises the board just three inches from the earth, and will
project in front of the hive some ten inches, making it ad-
mirably convenient for the bees to alight before entering
the hive, when the grass and weeds are kept down, which
is but little trouble. A separate stand for. each hive is
better than to have several on a bench together, as there
can then be no communication by the bees running to and
fro. Also, we are apt to give more room between them ;
and a board or plank will make more stands when cut in
pieces, than if left whole.
I used what is termed a canal bottom board, until I
found that it did not pay expenses, hence I rejected. it,
and succeed just as well. It is generally recommended to
prevent robbing, and keep out the moth. It may. prevent
one hive in fifty from being robbed, but as for keeping out
the moth, it is about as good a contrivance in its favor, as
need be. Jam aware that I differ from most apiarians, in
placing the stand so near the earth ; less than two or three
feet between the bees and the earth, it is said, will not an-
swer any way. I shall not urge the adoption of any rule
that Ihave not tested by my own practice. The objec-
tion raised, is the dampness arising from the earth, but I
am unable to discover the least bad effect from this cause.
DISADVANTAGE OF STANDING. TOO HIGH.
Let us compare advantages and disadvantages a little
farther. When the bees approach a hive suspended, or
standing on a high bench, two or three feet from the earth,
towards evening or on a chilly afternoon—and we have
Be
”»
106 THE APIARY.
many such in spring—even if there is not much wind, they
are very apt to miss the hive and fall to the ground, so
benumbed with cold, as to be unable to rise again, and by
the next morning are lifeless. On the other hand, if the
hive is near the earth, with a board as described, there is
no possibility of their alighting under it, and if they should
fail to reach it, and fall to the ground, they can always
creep long after they are too cold to fly, and are thus
often able to enter the hive, when they can not use their
wings. In this way, enough may be saved in one spring,
from a few hives, to make a good swarm. Belonging to
different hives, the loss is not perceived, yet as much profit
might be realized from them, as if they formed an indi-
vidual swarm. To such as will have them away from the
earth, I would say, do adopt some plan to save this por-
tion of your best and most willing servants. Have an
alighting board project at least one foot in front of the
hive, or a board long enough to reach from the bottom of
the hive to the ground, upon which they may crawl up to
the hive. Do you want an inducement ? Examine care-
fully the earth about your hives, towards sunset, some
fair but windy day in April, when it is chilly towards
night, and you will be astonished at the number that. per-
ish. Most of them will be loaded with pollen, proving
them martyrs to their own industry and your negligence,
When I see a bench three feet high, and no wider than
the bottom of the hive, and no entrance for the bees,
except at the bottom, and as many hives crowded on it as
it will hold, I no longer wonder that “ bee-keeping is all
in luck ;” the wonder is how they keep them at all. Yet
it proves that, with proper management, bee-keeping is
not so precarious, after all.
THE APIARY. ‘ 107
BEST COVER.
T have taken some pains to ascertain the best protection
for hives, from the weather, and have concluded that the
cheapest covering is as good as any ; any thing that will
keep the sun and rain from the top, is sufficient. Covers
for each hive, like the bottom board, should be separate,
and some larger than the top.
BEE-HOUSE UNPROFITABLE.
I have used bee-houses, but they will not pay, and I
have discarded them. They are objectionable on account
of preventing a free circulation of air; also, it is difficult
to construct them so that the sun may strike the hives
both in the morning and afternoon, which is quite essen-
tial. Ifthey front the south, the middle of the day is the
only time when the sun can reach all the hives at once;
this is just when they need it least, and in hot weather
the combs are sometimes injured by melting. But when
the hives stand far enough apart, on separate stands, it is
very easy to arrange them to stand in the sun, morning
and afternoon, and be shaded four or five hours in the
middle of the day.
We are often quite prodigal in building a splendid bee-
house, but we think of economy when we come to put our
hives in, and are quite sure to pack them too closely.
SOME WILL HAVE THEM.
Notwithstanding the objections here urged against bee-
houses, there will be a few, who, if they keep bees at all,
must have them in a house. We will see how far they
can be accommodated without seriously diminishing their
profits. A bee-house, without any pretension to ornament,
generally combines the desired consideration with econo-
my. It is usually straight, and contains but one row of
hives. A second and even a third is sometimes added,
108 THE APIARY.
but when the inconvenience of access to the upper row is
considered, together with the disadvantage to the bees, it
will confine most economists to the single row. The
cheapest form is made by setting posts firmly into the
ground, six or eight feet apart, three or four feet from
front to rear, and five or six feet high. Cut those on the
back enough shorter to give a good pitch to the roof,
which may be of boards or shingles. Ten or twelve inches
from the ground—not more than that—nail or cut in a
shoulder, to support a framework of joists, upon which
Fie, 14.—BEE HOUSE.
the stands are to be placed. Lay boards the width of the
hive or a little more, cross-wise the frame work, and set
the hive on the back end.
I consider separate stands, with spaces between, a better
arrangement than the plank running lengthwise, as the
THE APIARY. 109
bees can not run from one hive to the other to gossip.
The distance between the hives can be easily regulated ; it
should be from one to four feet, according to circumstances.
HIVES SHOULD BE OF DIFFERENT COLORS.
The hives should be of different, but not glaring colors.
As a bee is guideduto the entrance of its home by outside
appearances, it is well to alternate the colors when arrang-
ing the hives. After the first few days in spring, the
workers have but little difficulty. The first day they issue,
they seem to settle indiscriminately on the hives to rest,
and are often worried and killed. The young bees as they
hatch and come out, during the season, either know their
own home better, or if they make any such mistakes, are
noticed less in the hurry of,labor. But the young queen
often enters the wrong hive on her return from her excur-
sion, and this uniformly involves the loss of her colony.
This is the chief objection to the bee-house.
REPLACING QUEENS.
By using the movable comb hive, and rearing queens ar-
tificially, (as the Italian queens are usually raised,) and
furnishing laying queens,—thus obviating the necessity of
the young queens leaving the hive—this difficulty is avoid-
ed. If you think proper, you may allow the bees to swarm,
and at the end of a week, look over the combs of the old
hive, cut out a2 queen cells, and introduce a laying queen.
Theafter swarms are thus prevented, and the colony is matur-
ing brood nearly two weeks sooner than if they had reared
a queen, which is equivalent to a small swarm. Likewise,
they will probably be in condition to store surplus, or to
part with another good swarm, when they might not have
‘done either, if let alone. This will do much towards bal-
ancing the disadvantage of a bee-house. Should you
choose to divide—making artificial swarms—the hives
110 THE APIARY.
should be set far enough apart, at first, to allow room for
other hives between them. Whenever a colony is suf-
ficiently strong to divide, one half the combs may be put
into the new hive, as in making artificial swarms. In a
week, cut out cells, and introduce the laying queen. It
will be important to keep a few queens on hand, in case
any should unexpectedly swarm; or,rather you should
expect some to do so, a little before you are ready to di-
vide. The advantages of having laying queens always
ready, amply repays all trouble in rearing. I would sug-
gest that the movable com) hives only, are used for this
kind of bee-house, as it is evident that the box hive can
PAO MASSE
Fig. 15,—nrr novsz.
not be so easily managed. When such a hive swarms, we
often can not remove all the queen cells; the bees would
be obliged to raise their own queens, and would be likely
to swarm several times. Also, the queen left in the old
‘an and those with the after swarms, would be likely to
e lost.
THE APIARY 111
SEVERAL BEE-HOUSES,
If one uses nothing but the box hive, and must have bee-
houses, it would be better to make several small ones,
Fig. 16,—BEE HOUSE.
holding but three hives, fronting in three different direc-
tions, as in fig. 15. Tet it be closely boarded on the north
112 THE APIARY.
side, or so as to break off the prevailing wind, with a roof
over the whole.
It will be seen that the three hives set very compactly,
yet the entrances are some distance apart, and so dissimi-
lar that the young queens would seldom make a mistake
in entering. In a place where there is little or no wind, a
hive may be added on the fourth side. Such bee-houses,
tastefully built, would be quite ornamental. A hexagonal
shape might be a little more graceful, yet it would increase
the liability of losing the queens. For a more elaborate
style, an octagon would be suitable, to which a second
story might be added, giving room for sixteen hives, as
seen in fig. 16, on the preceding page.
In grounds where the bees would annoy the family, or
visitors, they may be surrounded by a hedge of shrubbery
or vines. Enclose a plot of the desired area, of any shape
the fancy may dictate. Should a circle be chosen, I can
easily imagine that a> small, slender tree in the centre,
would greatly assist the bees in finding the hives. The
hedge may be evergreens, vines, or any small shrub of
suitable growth. Grape vines are very appropriate, being
of quick growth, and combining ornament with profit.
Openings should be left at proper distances for the hives,
which should be set in such a mauner that the front is on
the inside, and the body of the hive on the outside of the
hedge. The hedge should be dense, but as narrow as
possible. One arrangement is shown in fig. 17.
Operations with the hives can be performed on the out-
side, thus avoiding the attacks of the bees at work, which
are more liable to be troublesome than those whieh leave
the hive when it is opened. This hedge can be trained in
an arch over the top of the hives, but should not be
allowed to attain any great height, compelling the bees to ‘
rise over it. The fronts of the hives should be of different
colors, as before mentioned, but the color of the other
ROBBING. 1138
parts may be uniform, if desired. Proper openings should
be left for the operator to pass within, when necessary.
Fig. 17.—HIVES ARRANGED IN A HEDGE.
Those who consider the appearance of the hive unsightly,
may set an outer hedge, a few feet from the first, which
will effectually screen them from observation.
CHAPTER VI.
ROBBING.
NOT UNDERSTOOD.
Robbing is often a source of loss to the careless apiarian.
It is frequent in spring, and at any time in warm weather,
when there is a scarcity of honey. It is very annoying,
and is sometimes a source of contention among neighbors,
L14 ROBBING.
when perhaps neither is to blame, farther than for igno-
rance. The person keeping the most bees, must expect to
be held accountable for all the losses in the neighborhood,
whether they occur from mismanagement, or want of
management, and if he escapes without being charged
with those lost by hundreds of other causes, he ought to
be thankful. It is often thought if a person has but one
stock, and another has ten, that the ten will combine to
plunder the one. This conclusion is not warranted by
facts. I can discover no collusion between different
families of the same apiary. It is true that when one col-
ony finds another weak and defenceless, possessing treasures,
they have no conscientious scruples about carrying off the
last particle, notwithstanding they revel in abundance at
home; and it is most frequently the case that the strong-
est colonies are most given to this despicable habit. The
hurry and bustle attending the plunder, seldom escapes
the notice of other hives, and when one hive in the yard
has been robbed, perhaps two-thirds or all of the others
have participated in the offense.
It is common to hear remarks like this, “I had a first
vate hive of bees,” (when, in fact, he had not looked at
them, particularly, for a month, and knew nothing or
their real condition)—“ and Mr. A’s bees began to rob
them.” I tried every thing to stop it; moved them sev-
eral times to prevent their finding the hive, but it did no
good; the first I knew they were all gone—bees, honey
and all! The bees all joined the robbers.” Now, the fact
is, that not one good colony in fifty will ever be robbed,
if let alone ; that is, if the entrance is properly protected.
Moving the hive was enough to ruin it; bees were lost at
every change, until nothing was left but honey to tempt
the robbers; whereas, if left on its stand, it might have
escaped.
The injury done by robbers is sometimes like that done
ROBBING. 115
by worms, and usually following some preceding weakness
of the colony. Not one strong colony in a hundred will
be attacked and plundered at the first onset.
DIFFICULTY IN DECIDING.
Probably but few bee-keepers are able to decide at once
when bees are robbing. It requires the closest scrutiny to
decide. There is nothing about the apiary more difficult
to determine ; nothing in which one is more likely to be
deceived. It is generally supposed, when a number are
fighting outside, that it is conclusive that they are also
robbing, which is seldom the case. On the contrary, a
show of resistance indicates a strong colony, and that they
are disposed to defend their treasures. A very weak
colony of Italians will often make a spirited resistance. I
have no fears for a stock that has courage to repel an
attack. The greatest danger is with those weak colonies
incapable of opposition. In seasons of scarcity, all good
stocks maintain sentinels about the entrance, whose duty
it appears to be to examine every bee that attempts to
enter. If it isa member of the community, it is allowed
to pass; if not, it is arrested on the spot. It would seem
that a password was requisite for admittance, for no soon-
er does a stranger endeavor to enter, than it is known.
The absence of proper credentials is evidence enough to
convict it. Each bee is a qualified jurist, judge, and exe-
cutioner. There is no delay, no waiting for witnesses for
the defence. The more a bee attempts to escape, unless it
is by chance successful, the more certain is the execution
of the sentence. How strange bees are known to be such,
is yet undetermined, probably by the scent.
WEAK COLONIES IN DANGER.
It is the duty of every bee-keeper who expects to suc-
ceed, to know which his weak stocks are. An examina-
116 ROBBING.
tion can be made on some cool morning, by turning the
hive bottom up, and allowing the sun to shine among the
combs. The number of inhabitants is thus easily seen.
“When weak, close the entrance till there is just room for
one bee to pass at once.
WHEN TO LOOK OUT FOR ROBBERS.
A little after noon, on the first pleasant day, at any time
before honey is obtained plentifully, look out for robbers.
To get to robbing, bees must be first tempted, and render-
ed furious. A dish of refuse honey left near them is some-
times sufficient to set them at work; also an insufficient
supply, when fed. After they have once commenced, it
takes an astonishing quantity to satiate their appetite.
They seem to be perfectly intoxicated, and reckless of
danger, venturing into certain destruction. I have known
a few instances where good colonies were so reduced by
fighting while. robbing, that they in turn fell a prey to
similar marauders.
Thave for several years kept hundreds of stocks away
from home, where I could seldom see them. YetI seldom
lose a stock by robbing. Isimply keep the entrance closed,
leaving, during spring, a passage for the bees at work. It
is true, I have lost a few, when the other bees took the
honey, but they would have been lost in any case. A
great many apiarians raise their hives an inch from the
board, early in spring.” They seem to disregard the op-
portunity it gives robbers to enter on every side. It is
like setting the door of your dwelling open, to tempt the
thief, and then complaining of the consequences.
Let it be understood, then, that all good stocks, under
ordinary circumstances, will take care of themselves;
Nature has provided means of defence, with instinct to
direct its use. Non-resistance may do for highly cultivat-
ed intellect in man, but not here. There is a prevalent
ROBBING. 117
opinion that robbers often go to a neighboring hive, kill
off the bees first, and then take possession of the spoils. I
have never yet discovered one fact to corroborate this,
although I have watched very closely. Whenever bees-
have lost all their stores, at a period when nothing was to
be obtained from flowers, it is evident that they must
soon starve, and disappear in a few days. This would
naturally give rise to the supposition that they had been
killed by the robbers.
FIRST INDICATION.
I will now describe the appearance of a weak hive that
is being robbed, and show, that without timely interfer-
ence, the result will be a total loss to the colony. Each
robber, when leaving the hive, instead of flying in a direct
line to its home, will turn its head towards the hive to
mark the spot, that it may return for another load, in the
same manner that they do when leaving their own hive for
the first time in the spring. The first time the young
bees leave home, they mark their location by the same
process. <A few of these begin to hatch very early, in all
good stocks, often before the weather is warm enough for
any to leave the hive. These young bees will fly out very
thickly about the middle of each fair day, or a little later,
called “ playing,” by some writers. This unusual activity
strongly resembles the bustle of robbers, and it is difficult
to detect the difference. Their motions are alike, but
there is a little difference in color, the young bees being a
shade lighter; and the abdomen of the robbers, when
filled with honey, is a little larger. But while you are
learning these nice distinctions, your bees may be ruined.
I will therefore give additional means of ascertaining.
Bees, when they have been stealing a sack of honey from
a neighboring hive, will generally run several inches from
the entrance before flying; kill some of these; if filled
118 ROBBING.
with honey, they are robbers; for it 1s very suspicious to
be filled with honey when leaving the hive; or sprinkle
some flour on them as they come out, and let some one
“watch by the other hives to see if they enter. The follow-
ing is less trouble, but it will be longer before they are
checked, if robbing. Visit them again in the course of half
an hour or more, after the young bees have returned, and if
the bustle continues or increases, it is time to interfere.
When the entrance has been contracted, as directed, close
it entirely, till near sunset. If it has been left open, it
should now be closed, giving room for only one bee at a
time. This will allow all that belong to the hive to get in,
and others to get out, and will materially retard the pro-
gress of the robbers. Unless it should be cool, they will
continue their operations till evening. Very often some
are unable to get home in the dark, and are lost. This,
by the way, is another good test of robbing. Visit the
hives every warm evening. They commence depredations
on the warmest days, seldom at any other time. If any
are at work when honest laborers should be at home, they
should be regarded with suspicion.
REMEDIES,
A great many remedies for this evil have been recom-
mended, which are as bad as the evil itself, and often the
cause of it. The most fatal is to move the hive a few rods;
another, to entirely close it, which may smother the bees;
or to break out some comb in the hives of the robbers,
and set the honey to running, thereby giving them work
at home. I would recommend removing the weak hive,
on the morning after the attack, to the cellar, or some dark,
cool place, until two or three warm days have passed, and
the search has been abandoned. The robbers will proba-
bly attack the stock on the next stand. Contract the en-
trance of this according to the number of bees that are to
ROBBING. 119
pass. If strong, no danger need be apprehended; they
may fight and even kill some; perhaps a little chastise-
ment is necessary to bring them to a sense of their duty.
When a hive has been removed, if the one on the next
stand is weak, it is better to take that in also, to be
returned as soon as the robbers will allow it. If a second
attack is made, put them in again, or if practicable, remove
them a mile or two, out of their knowledge of country ;
they would then lose no time from labor. Where but few
hives are kept, and not more than one or two are engaged,
sprinkle a little flour on the bees as they leave, to ascer-
tain which hive they are from; then reverse their position,
putting the robbed in the place of the robbing, and the
reverse. The weak hive will generally become the strong-
est, and put a stop to their operations. But this method
is impracticable in a large apiary, because several stocks:
are usually engaged very soon after one begins, and a
dozen may be robbing one. Another method is, when
you are sure a stock is being robbed, to close the hive at
a time when there as many plunderers inside as possible,
(wire-cloth, or something that will admit air, and confine
the bees, is necessary,) and carry in as before directed, for
two or three days, when they may be set out again. The
strange bees thus enclosed will join the weak family, and
will be as eager to defend what is now their treasure, as
they were before to carry it off. This principle of forget-
ting home, and uniting with others, after a lapse of a few
days, can be wisely acted upon in this case. It succeeds
about four times in five, when a proper number is enclos-
ed. Weak families are very easily strengthened in this
way, and the bees, being taken from a number of hives,
are scarcely missed elsewhere. The difficulty is, to secure
about as many as belong to the weak hive; if too few are
enclosed, they are apt to be destroyed. As I remarked
in the beginning of the chapter, bees will plunder and fight
120 ROBBING.
at any time through the summer when honey can not be
collected; but spring is the only time in which such des-
perate and persevering efforts are made to obtain it. At
no other time can the apiarian be excused for having his
hives plundered, or allowing them to be liable to such
invasions. Families reduced in winter and spring, will, if
protected through this season, generally make good stocks.
Prevention is better than cure; evil propensities should be
checked in the bud. It would probably be the least
trouble, when practicable, to remove the weak hive to some
neighbor, a mile or two away, where there are no strong
ones to molest it; and return it after the honey season
arrives.
The apiarian who allows his hives to be plundered in the
fall, is not fit to have charge of them; the efforts of the
robbers are seldom as vigorous as in spring, (unless there
is a general scarcity,) the weak hives are usually better
supplied with bees, and consequently a less number is
exposed. When there are some very weak families, they
should be disposed of as soon as the flowers fail. Partic-
ulars given in Fall Management.
EQUALIZATION.
I have sometimes equalized the strength of my hives,
early in spring, by the following method. Bees, when
wintered together in a room, will seldom quarrel when
first put out. When one hive has an over supply of bees,
and another a very few, the next day after being set out,
I change the weak one to the stand of the strong one, (as
before mentioned), and all bees that have marked the loca-
tion, will return to that place. This often fails for the
reason that too many bees leave the strong hive, making
that the weak one, and nothing is gained. If it could be
done when they had been out of winter quarters just long
enough for the proper number to have marked the loca-
ROBBING. 121
tion, success would be quite certain. But betore an
exchange of this kind is made, it would be well, if possible,
to ascertain the cause of a stock being weak ; if it arises
from the loss of a queen, we only make the matter worse
by this operation.
BATTLES,
I will describe some of their battles, or what are called
battles, as it is seldom that a regular battle occurs, in
which both parties make a deadly effort to destroy the
other. Two queens will meet thus, and occasionally two
workers. Bees fight to repel invaders, but I have little faith
that they make war on a neighboring colony for the mere
sake of fighting. When bees first fly out in spring, some
will settle on a neighboring hive, if they are close together,
but as soon as one alights, it is surrounded, the whole
front of the hive being sometimes covered in this way. A
half dozen will attack one stranger, two or three biting its
legs, one pulling it by the wing, another perched on its
back making a feint of stinging, while another is ready to
take what honey it has, when it has been worried suffi-
ciently to give it up. It is sometimes let go, after it has
yielded all its honey, but is often dispatched by a sting,
which is almost instantly fatal. A bee is killed by a sting
sooner than by any other means, except crushing. When
strange bees enter a hive, which sometimes part of a re-
turning swarm will do, I have known a few thousands to
be killed in five minutes. The joints are the only vulnera-
ble parts of a bee. During the fight, if the object be to
repel pillagers, a few bees may be seen buzzing around
in search of an unguarded place to enter the hive. If such
is found, it alights and enters in a moment. At other
times, it meets a sentinel on duty, and is on the wing
again, in an instant. It is occasionally more unfortunate,
and is seized by the guard, when it must either break
6
122 FEEDING.
away, or suffer the penalty of insect justice, which is gen-
erally “to the utmost extent of the law.”
CHAPTER VII.
FEEDING.
FEEDING A LAST RESORT.
Feeding bees is sometimes quite necessary. But in
ordinary seasons and circumstances it is very doubtful
policy for the apiarian to attempt to winter many stocks
so poorly supplied with honey, that they will need feeding
before spring. Nothing is more common than for inex-
perienced persons to undertake to winter every hive con-
taining bees, and the more ignorant they are of the
business, the more poor hives they will endeavor to keep.
There are circumstances under which it may be proper to
feed colonies in the fall. In the chapter on Fall Manage-
ment, I will give directions for disposing of such as should
not be fed. It pays better to feed in spring than at any
other season, and there are more that need it then. Some
families having had light stores at the beginning of winter
have consumed about all. Some stocks, when brought
from their winter quarters, mix badly with others, and
occasionally most of the bees leave their own hive, and
join other stocks. Those left may not be able to defend
their stores, and will be robbed.
I have known a few instances where there was every
requisite for a good stock, and yet they were so imbecile
that they would not defend themselves, and allowed every
particle to be taken from them. Although there is a
strong temptation to let such starve, as a punishment for
want of energy, it usually pays to feed them. Bees may
FEEDING. 123
also be fed at this season to promote early swarming and
storing of surplus honey.
CARE.
In feeding, the utmost care is requisite, and but few
know how to manage it properly. Honey fed to bees, is
almost certain to excite quarreling. Strong colonies
sometimes scent the honey given to weak ones, and carry
it off as fast as supplied. It is possible that feeding a
stock of bees in spring, may cause them to starve; where-
as, if let alone, they would survive. Notwithstanding this
seems contradictory, it may be made to appear reasonable.
Whenever the supply of honey is deficient, probably not
more than one egg in twenty will be matured, their means
not allowing the brood to be fed. In very small colonies
the queen usually confines herself to a small area of comb,
often depositing several eggs in one cell, but. if the supply
of honey is increased, she will extend her labors over a
greater space. Suppose we give such a stock two or three
pounds of honey, encouraging them to feed a large brood,
and the supply fails before they are half grown. What
are they to do? Destroy the brood and lose all they
have fed, or draw on their old stores, and trust to chance
for themselves? The latter alternative will probably be
adopted, and then without timely intervention of favorable
weather, the bees will starve. The same effect is some-
times produced by the changes of the weather. A week
or two may be very fine and bring out the flowers-in
abundance, and a sudden change, perhaps frost, may cut
them all off. This makes it necessary to exercise consid-
erable vigilance, as these spells of cold weather make it
unsafe to neglect them, till white clover appears, (10th or
15th. of June in this section) but if the spring is favorable,
there is but little danger, unless they are robbed as fed.
If the necessary care be taken about moth-worms, the
124 FEEDING.
light hives can be distinguished. This is another advan-
tage of the simple hive; by merely raising one edge to
destroy worms, we learn something about the quantity of
honey on hand. To be very exact, the hive should be
weighed when ready for the bees, and the weight marked
on it; by weighing at any time after, we can ascertain
pretty nearly the amount of honey. Some allowance must
be made for the age of the combs, quantity of brood, ete.
It is wrong to begin to feed without being prepared to
continue, as the supply must be kept up until honey is
abundant.
DESTITUTE COLONIES SOMETIMES DESERT.
When one has the means to continue feeding, and time
requisite to make it secure, perhaps it would not be ad-
visable to wait till the last extremity before feeding, as a
small family will sometimes entirely desert the hive, when
destitute, especially if they have but little brood. In these
cases, they issue precisely as a swarm; after flying a long
time, they either return or unite with some other stock,
but seldom cluster. If they return, they need attention
immediately, and we may be certain there is something
wrong, let the desertion take place when it may. In
spring, the cause may be destitution, or mouldy combs;
at other times, the presence of worms, diseased brood, etc.
But whatever the cause, ascertain it, and apply the remedy.
WHEN THEY MUST BE FED.
If it is wished to wait as long as possible before feeding,
a test will be necessary to decide how long it will do to
delay it. “Strict attention must be given ; they will need
examination every morning. Ifa light tap on the hive is
answered by a lively buzzing, they are not suffering yet;
but if no answer is made to this inquiry, it indicates weak-
ness. Extreme destitution takes away all disposition to
FEEDING, 125
repel an attack. Sometimes a part of the bees will be too
weak to remain among the combs, and will be seen lying
on the bottom, while a few will be outside. If the weather
is cool, they ‘vill be apparently lifeless; yet they can be
revived, and now must be fed. Those among the combs
may be able to move, though feebly. When this is the
condition of things, invert the hive, gather up all the scat-
tered bees, and put them in. Get some honey, if candied,
heat it till it dissolves ; comb honey is not so good unless
broken up ; pour a quantity among the combs, directly on
the bees; cover the bottom of the hive with a cloth, se-
curing it firmly, and bring to the fire to warm. If no
honey is at hand, sugar may be used instead ; add a little
water, boil until near the consistency of honey, and skim
it; when cool enough, use the same as honey. In two or
three hours they will be revived, and may be returned to
the stand, providing the honey given is all taken up; on
no account let any run out around the bottom. The
necessity of a daily visit to the hives is apparent from the
fact that, if left for only a day or two in the situation just
described, it will be too late to revive them.
At night, if you have a box cover, such as recommended,
you may open the holes in the top of the hive, fill a dish
with honey or syrup, and set, it on the top; put in some
shavings, cut straw, or a float made of very light wood,
very thin, and full of holes, or narrow channels made with
a saw, to keep the bees from drowning. When you begin
to feed, scatter a few drops on the top of the hive, down
into it, and on the side of the dish to teach them the way.
When the weather is warm enough for them to take it
during the night, it is best to feed at evening—from four
to eight ounces daily is sufficient. If the family is very
small, what honey is left in the mor ning, may be taken by
robbers. It is then best to take it out, or carry the hive
into a dark room, sufficiently warm, and feed them enough
126 FEEDING.
to last several days, and then return them to the stand—
keeping a good look out that they are not plundered, and
again starving, until the flowers produce sufficient honey.
MANNER OF FEEDING. *
The following is a more systematic mode of feeding.
Get a tinman to make a dish, ten or twelve inches square,
with vertical sides two inches high. For a box hive cut a
beard two feet long, and fifteen inches wide ; two or three
inches from one end, cut out a place exactly the size of
the dish, so that it will set in just even with the upper
side of the board. Make a good fit, that no bees may get
in around it. Nail cleats on the under side one or two
inches thick. To keep the bees from drowning when the
dish is filled with honey, and to prevent them from making
Fig. 18,— FEEDER.
combs down into it, set in some thin strips edgewise, half
an inch apart, and reaching nearly to the bottom. To
hold these strips in place, put a piece of half inch board,
two inches wide, across each end. With a thick or coarse
saw, cut channels half an inch apart in one side of these
pieces, one-fourth inch deep, and crowd the thin strips in-
to them even with the top of the dish.
The strips may be split out of shingles, or sawed for the
purpose. Set the hive over this, leaving one end of the
dish two inches outside the back of the hive, for conve-
FEEDING. 127
nience in filling. Lay over this a strip of board to keep
out the bees. If the weather is warm when feeding, the
bees will soon get cross, unless smoke is instantly blown
among them on raising the cover. Bess will take honey
more readily when directly under them, than when over-
head, or on the side. Yet for most purposes the latter
places will answer. To feed at the back side, make a
shelf for the dish described, and a frame an inch deep, just
the size of the dish. Make two or three holes in one side,
and corresponding ones in the side of the hive. Lay this
frame on the dish, with the holes next the hive, and put
over it a pane of glass. The bees can enter from the hive,
and no outsiders can interfere.
Whatever plan of feeding is adopted, all openings large
enough to admit a bee, except the regular entrance, should
be closed. The board and feeder can be taken away,
when feeding is over, and put aside until needed again. If
left under the hive through the summer, it affords rather
too convenient a place for the worms to spin their cocoons.
OBJECT IN FEEDING.
If the object in feeding is to induce early swarming, of
course the best stocks are to be chosen for this purpose ;
but care is necessary not to give them too much, and thus
have the combs filled with honey, that should be occupied
with brood, thereby defeating your object. One pound
per day is enough, perhaps too much. The quanti-
ty obtained from flowers is a partial guide; when plenty,
feed less, when scarce, more. Begin as soon as they will
take it up in spring, and continue in accordance with the
weather, until white clover blossoms, or swarms issue.
Another object in feeding bees at this period, is to have
the store combs all filled with inferior honey, so that when
clover appears, there is no room for it, except in the boxes,
which being now put on, are rapidly filled. Inferior
128 FEEDING.
honey may be used for this purpose; Southern or West
India is good, and of moderate cost. Inferior sugar, mixed
with hones, will do, but they do not relish it so well when
fed alone. Ihave usually taken about equal quantities of
each, adding a pint of water to ten pounds of the mixture,
boiling and skimming it. The idea has been advanced
that candied honey is injurious to bees—even fatal. I
never could discover any unfavorable result, further than
that it was a perfect waste, when fed in this state. When
boiled, and a little water added, it appears to be as good
as anything. Nearly every stock will have more or less
of it on hand at this season, but as warm weather ap-
proaches, and the bees increase, it seems to become liqui-
fied from heat alone. The bees, when compelled to use
honey thus candied, waste a large portion; a part is liquid
and the rest is grained like sugar, which may be seen on
the bottom board as the bees throw it out.
Another and less commendable object in feeding bees, is
to give inferior honey, mixed with sugar, and flavored to
the taste, to the bees, and let them store it in boxes for
market. I have no faith that honey undergoes any chem-
ical change in the stomach of the bees, while they are
going from the feeding dish to deposit it in the cell, and
can not recommend this as an honest course. Neither do
I think it would be very profitable to feed for this purpose,
under any circumstances. I have sometimes had boxes
nearly full, and almost ready for market, at the end of the
honey season; when it would seem that feeding a little
would complete them, provided the hive were full. Thave
fed them a few pounds of good honey at such times, but
I always found that of several pounds fed, but very little
would be stored in the boxes,
DESTRUCTION OF THE MOTH-WORM. 129
PROMISCUOUS FEEDING UNPROFITABLE.
I have seen it recommended and practiced by some
apiarians, to feed bees all at once, in the open air, ina
large trough ; but whoever realizes much profit from this
method, will be peculiarly fortunate, as every stock in the
neighborhood will soon scent it, and carry off a good share.
Also, nearly every stock at home will be in contention, and
great numbers be destroyed. The moment the supply is
exhausted, their attention is directed to other stocks.
Another objection to this wholesale feeding is, that some
stocks do not need it at all, while others do, and the
former, being stronger, are quite likely to get the most.
CHAPTER VIII.
DESTRUCTION OF THE MOTH-WORM.
I shall not give a full history of the moth in this place,
as spring is not the time in which it is most destructive.
But as this is a duty belonging to spring, a partial history
seems necessary.
As soon as the bees begin their labors the worms are
generally ready to commence theirs.
FOUND IN THE BEST STOCKS,
You will probably find some in your best stocks, but it
need not alarm you. Even weak colonies are seldom des-
troyed at this season, although all may be more or less
injured. They work mostly among the sealed brood.
The heads of the young bees, after assuming the chrysalis
form, are about one-twelfth of an inch from the sealing of
the cells, leaving a suitable space between their heads and
the sealing, for the perambulations of the worms,
6*
130 DESTRUCTION OF THE MOTH-WORM.
FEAR OF THE BEES.
As a protection against the bees, they spin silken galler-
ies, completely surrounding them, and never exposing
any part but the head, which is coated with mail, They
are thus safe until they have attained their growth, when
all
aie He:
" i ily * Hr l CTD
Candy, Va
Ge NT
ee
__
_.
Fig. 19.—worM GALLERY IN THE COMB.
it is necessary to leave their feeding grounds to find a
place for their cocoons. Without this silken covering, they
are easily annoyed by the legal occupants of the hive, and
will creep into every available corner to avoid their at-
tacks. During the cool nights of spring, they become
chilled, get on the bottom board, and being unable to
move further, are easily found and killed. “If you have
the movable comb hive, you can
= take out the frames, and trace
this silken gallery from begin-
ning to end. Touch it in differ-
ent places with a sharp pointed
knife, till you see by a stir inside where the worm is, then
with the point of the knife, and thumb, it can be picked
out at once. To destroy such as have left the combs, get
a piece of narrow hoop-iron, (steel would be better) three-
Fig. 20.—MOTH-WoORM.
DESTRUCLION OF ‘LHE MUTH-WORM. 131
fourths of an inch wide, and five inches long; taper one
side three inches from the end, to a point, then grind each
edge sharp, make three or four holes through the wide
(openers Po lee
Fig. 21.—rooL FoR KILLING WORMS,
end, to admit small nails through it in the handle, which
should be about two feet long, and half an inch square.
Armed with this you can proceed.
HOW DESTROYED.
Raise the hive on one edge, and with the point of your
sword you may pick a worm out of the closest corner, and
easily scrape all from under the hive. Be sure and dis-
patch every one; not that the “little victim” will per-
sonally do much more mischief, but it is to be apprehended
through its descendants. Very likely half of all you find
will have finished their course of destruction among the
combs, and voluntarily left them for a place to spin their
cocoons. They are worried, if bees are numerous, until
satisfied that there is no safe place among them to make a
shroud and remain helpless for two or three weeks.. Ac-
cordingly, when they get their growth, they leave and
get on the bottom board. They will be chilled and help-
less in the morning, but active in the middle of the day. If
they are merely thrown on the earth, a place will be
selected there for transformation, if no better is found, and
a moth perfected ten feet from the hive, is just as capable
of depositing five hundred eggs there, as if she had never
left it.
Several generations are matured in the course of one
summer; consequently, one destroyed at this season, may
prevent the existence of thousands before the summer is
over.
The moth-worm is one of the many subjects connected
132 DESTRUCTION OF THE MOTH-WORM.
with bees, concerning which, there is a great deal of the-
oretical reasoning and imposition. I wish the reader to
judge for himself, lay aside whims and prejudices, and look
at the subject candidly ; and if no testimony comes up to
confirm any position I assume, I shall not complain if my
assertions fare no better than some others. Only defer
judgment until you know for yourself.
Bees have always received my special regard and atten-
tion, and my enthusiasm may blind my judgment. I may
be prejudiced, but not wilfully wrong. I have found so
many theories utterly false, when carried into practice,
that I depend on none, however plausible, without facts
to support them.
To return to our subject. It is supposed by many,
when these worms are found on the board, that they get
there by accident, having dropped from the combs above.
They do not seem to understand that the worm generally
travels on safe principles, that he attaches a thread to
whatever he passes over. To be satisfied on this point, I
have many times carefully detached his foot-hold, when on
the side of the hive, or other place, where he would fall
a few inches, and always found him with a thread fast at
the place he left, to enable him to regain his former posi-
tion if he chose. Is it not probable, then, that whenever
he leaves the combs for the bottom board, he can readily
ascend again? No doubt he often does, to be driven
down again by the bees. Now, what I wish to show by
all this preamble, is simply this; that all our trouble and
anxiety to prevent the worms from again ascending to the
combs, by wire hooks, wire pins, screws, nails, turned
pins, clam shells, blocks of wood, etc., is perfect nonsense,
when half of them would do the bees no harm if they did
return, and might as well go there as any where else.
And, these useless contrivances are very often positively
injurious to the bees,
DESLRUCTION OF TILE MOTH-\WORM. 133
Suppose, if you please, that the worm has no thread
attached above, and the hive is far enough above to pre-
vent his reaching it. Of course he can’t get up; but how
are the bees to do any better? The worm can reach as
high as they can. You think the bee can fly up; so it
will, sometimes, but will try a dozen times to get up some
other way, and when it does fly, a smooth board is a very
bad place from which to start. Did you ever watch by a
hive thus raised, towards night, in April or May, when it
was a little cool, and see the industrious little insects ar-
riving with a load as heavy as they could possibly carry,
chilly, and nearly out of breath, scarcely able to reach
home, and there witness their vain attempts to get among
their fellows above them? If you never observed this, I
wish you would do so, and when you find them giving up
in despair, and perishing after many fruitless attempts, I
think if you possess sympathy, benevolence, or even sel-
fishness, you will be induced to do as I did—discard at
once wire hooks, and all other contrivances under the hive,
in the spring, and give the bees, when they do get home
with a load, what they richly deserve,—protection.
But if you set the hives close to the bottom board, you’
will say “the worms will get between the bottom of the
hive and the board.” Well, what then? I expect if you
intend to succeed, that you will get them out, and destroy
them. Iam as willing to find a worm under the edge of
the hive, and dispatch it, as to have it creep into some
place out of sight, and change to a moth. I once trimmed
off the bottom of my hives to a thin edge, so they could
not have this place for their cocoons, but I now prefer to
have them square. No investment brings profitable re-
turns without proper attention. If you plant a field with
corn, you do not expect that the whole work is finished
with the planting. Neither should you expect when you
set up a stock of bees, that a full yield will be realized
134 DESTRUCTION OF THE MOTH-WORM.
without further care. If you are remunerated for keeping
the weeds from your corn, be assured that it is equally
profitable to weed out your bees.
Now, do not be deceived, and through indolence be in-
duced to get hives with descending bottom boards, to
throw out the worms as they fall, and hope by that means
to have no further trouble. We will suppose such inclined
bottom board capable of throwing every worm that
touches it “heels over head” to the ground; what have
we gained? His neck is not broken, nor any other bone
of his body! As if nothing extraordinary had happened,
he quietly gathers himself up and looks about for snug
quarters ; he cares not a fig for the hive now; he gorman-
dized on the combs until satisfied before he left them, and
is glad to get away from the bees at any price. A place
large enough for a cocoon is easily found, and when he
again becomes desirons of visiting the hives, it is not to
satisfy his own wants, but to accommodate his progeny.
MOTH PROOF HIVES NOT MADE.
A hive that is proof against the moth is yet to be con-
structed. We frequently hear of it, from patent-vend-
ers, but when tested by practical bee-keepers, the worms
are generally found in the vicinity of the bees. When
your hives become so full of bees that they cover the board
in a cool morning, you will seldom find the worms, except
under the edge of the hive. You may now raise it, and
catch the worms by laying under the bees a narrow shingle,
a stick of elder split in two, lengthwise, with the pith
scraped out, or any thing else that will afford them pro-
tection from the bees, and’ where they may spin their
cocoons. These should be removed every few days, the
worms destroyed, and the traps put back. Do not neglect
it till they change to the moth, and there is nothing to
remove but empty cocoons,
PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 135
BOX FOR WREN.
If you would take the trouble to put up a cage or two
for the wren to nest in, he would be a valuable assistant
in this department of your labor. He would be on the
lookout when you were away, and many worms, while
looking up quiet lodgings, would be relieved from all fur
ther trouble by being deposited in his crop. The cage
need not be more than four inches square, and should be
fastened as near as possible to the bees, to a post, tree,
or side of a building, a few feet from the ground. The
skull of some animal, (horse or ox) is very convenient for
them, the cavity for the brains being used for the nest. A
person once told me the wren would not build in one that
he had put up. On examination, the stake to support it
was found driven into the only entrance« I mention this
to show how little some people understand what they are
doing. It is sometimes as well to know why a thing is to
be done, as to know it must be done. If this prolixity is
unnecessary for one, it may benefit another. You must
remember that some bee-keepers are not over supplied
with ingenuity, and must receive very explicit directions,
CHAPTER IX.
PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES.
MUST NOT BE PUT ON TOO EARLY.
Putting on boxes may be considered a duty intermedi.
ate between spring and summer management. I can not
recommend putting them on, in ordinary circumstances, as
early as the last of April or first of May. Before the hive
is full of bees, it is generally useless, quite likely a disad-
vantage, by allowing a portion of animal heat to escape,
186 PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES.
which is needed in the hive te mature the brood. Also,
moisture may accumulate in them, causing mold to form
on the inside. Experience and judgment are necessary to
know about what time boxes are needed. That they are
necessary, need not be argued at the present day. Bee-
keepers have generally abandoned the barbarous practice
of killing the bees to obtain the honey. Most of them
have learned that a good swarm will store sufficient honey
for winter, besides several dollars’ worth of surplus. Here
is where the patent-vender has taken advantage of our ig-
norance, by pretending that no hive but his, ever obtained
such quantities of honey, and of such pure quality. It is
probable that a great many bee-keepers are unable to tell
precisely when the hive is full of honey ; it may be full of
bees, and not of honey, and they are thus uncertain when
to put on boxes. The best rule that I can give, is to put
them on when the bees begin to be crowded out. When
they are obtaining honey, a day or two before this, would
be just the right time. It should be remembered that
they do not always get honey when they begin to cluster
outside. This guide will do in place of a better one,
which only close observation and experience can give.
You may discover whether they are obtaining honey by
attentively watching the cells next the glass in a glass hive.
If honey is being deposited there in abundance, it is quite
evident that the flowers are yielding it, and other stocks
are obtaining it also. Now is the time, if the hives
are full, to put on the boxes. Too much room might re-
tard the swarming a few days, but if the bees are crowded
outside, it indicates want of room, and the boxes can
make no difference. It is better to have one box well
filled, than two part full, as might be the case if the bees
were not numerous. The object of putting on boxes be-
fore swarming, is to employ a portion of the bees, that
otherwise would remain idly clustering outside for two or
PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 187
three weeks, as they often do while preparing the young
queens for swarming. But when all the bees can be pro-
fitably engaged in the body of the hive, more room is un-
necessary.
MAKING HOLES AFTER TIUE HIVE I8 FULL
If a hive has no holes in the top, it need not prevent
your getting a few pounds of pure surplus honey.
Tf the holes are about two inches apart, and the row is
at right angles with the combs, each one will be so made
that a bee arriving at the top of a hive, between any two
combs, will be able to find a passage into the box without
long search, which I can imagine he would have when only
one hole is made, or when they are parallel with the combs.
If a hive contained eight or ten sheets of comb, and but
one passage to the box, a bee might go up between any
two, many times, before it found the opening.
It has been urged that every bee soon learns all the
passages about the hive, and consequently will know the
direct road to the box. This may be true, but when we
recollect that all within the hive is perfect darkness—that
the sense of feeling must guide the bee in all its travels, and
that perhaps a thousand or two young workers are added
every day, and these have to learn by the same means, we
would, if we studied our own interest, give them all possi-
ble facilities for entering the boxes. What way so easy
for them as to find a passage, when they get to the top,
between each two combs? That bees do not know all
roads about a hive, can be partially proved by opening
the door of a glass hive. Most of the bees about leaving,
instead of going to the bottom to make their exit, seem to
know nothing of the way, and will vainly try to get out
through the glass. I am so well convinced of this, that
I take some pains to accommodate them with frequent pas-
sages,
138 PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES.
To assist them as much as possible, when swarms are
put in new hives, make the holes and use guide-combs, as
directed for boxes, which should cross the row of holes at
right angles.
To make holes in the top of full hives, mark out the top
as directed for making hives and boxes. A centre bit, or
an auger bit, with a lip or barb, is best, as that cuts down
a little faster than the chip is taken out, leaving it smooth
When nearly through, you can cut the remainder of the
chip loose, with a pointed knife, and take it out. If it is
between the combs it is well; if directly over one, better:
with the knife take out a piece of comb as large as a wal.
nut. The bees will then have a passage through from
either side of the comb.
After you have opened one hole, the bees will very
likely want to know what is going on over head, and send
out a force “to make areconnoissance.” To prevent their
interference, use smoke, and send them down out of your
way, till the hole is finished; then lay over it a small
stone or block of wood, and make the others in the same
way. When all are done, blow in some smoke as you un-
cover them, and put on the boxes. This process is not
half so formidable as it appears from the description.
BOXES MAY BE TOO EASY OF ACCESS.
Dr. Bevan and some others have made a cross-bar hive,
by laying strips of half-inch board, a little over an inch
wide, and half an inch apart, across the top, instead of
nailing on in the usual way. It is plain that in such a
hive, a bee can pass into the box without difficulty, when-
ever it arrives at the top. I will repeat my objection to
allowing too much room to passages into the boxes, that
the disadvantages of the extremes of too little and too
much room may be perceived. In these cross-bar hives
the animal heat rises into the box from the hive, making
PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 139
it as warm as below. The queen often goes up with the bees,
and finding it warm and convenient, deposits her eggs,
hence young brood as well as honey is found there. We
should then be obliged to leave the box on the hive un-
til they hatched, which would make the combs dark, ete.
Boxes set directly on the frames of movable comb hives,
will be more speedily filled than when the bees go through
the holes, and were it not for the brood, it would always
be preferable to put them on in this way, and thus secure
the greatest amount of honey.
A BETTER WAY.
Very much may be done to prevent the queen from go-
ing into the boxes, by laying on the cross-bars or frames,
strips of wood one-fourth inch square, upon which the
boxes may be set. They will then be very close to the
hive, and the bees will readily find their way into them.
If a piece of comb is stuck fast to the bottom of the box,
as well as at the top, the bees will commence work a little
sooner. Every inducement should be offered to get them
into the boxes as soon as possible after the hive is full.
Whenever, for want of room, they are compelled to go into
another apartment, they will hesitate and lose a little time.
If the honey stored in the frames of the movable comb
hive were only in a marketable form, we could get much
more in quantity by making our hives large enough to
contain a few more frames than would be required to hold
winter stores.
ADVANTAGE OF GLASS BOXES.
This advantage attends glass boxes: while being filled,
the progress can be watched till they are finished. They
should then be taken off to preserve the purity of the combs.
Every day that the bees are allowed to pass over them
needlessly, renders them darker. Consequently, when
140 PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES.
our bees are a long time filling a box, the comb is not as
purely white as when filled expeditiously. Occasionally,
a colony will contain too many bees to work to advantage
in one set of boxes. In such a case, after the first are
well advanced, raise them up and put another set under
them, with holes for communication through both top and
bottom.
Two weeks is about the shortest time in which boxes
are filled and finished. The time, of course, depends on
the yield of honey and size of the swarm. It usually takes
three or four weeks.
WHEN TO TAKE THEM OFF.
When no more honey is gathered, all boxes that are
worth saving should be taken off. If left longer, the
comb not only becomes dark, but unsealed cells containing
honey, are often emptied by the bees. The condition of
the boxes can be readily ascertained by raising the cover.
If aslide of tin or zinc is used to close the holes when boxes
are taken off, some of the bees are apt to be crushed, or
find themselves minus a head, leg or wing, and all of them
will be irritable for several days. A little smoke will an-
swer every purpose. Raise the box sufficiently to puff
under it some smoke, and the bees will leave the vicinity
of the holes in an instant. The box can then be removed,
and another put on if necessary, without exciting their
anger in the least.
Arouse the bees by striking the box lightly four or five
times. If all the cells are finished, and honey is still ob-
tained, turn the box bottom up, near the hive from which
it was taken, so that the bees can enter it without flying.
By this means you can save several young bees that have
never left the hive and marked the location; also a few
others too weak to fly, which will follow the rest into
the hive. Such are lost when we are obliged to take them
PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 141
to a distance. Boxes can be taken off either at morning
or evening; if in the morning, they may stand several
hours when the sun is not too hot, but on no account let
them stand in the sun in the middle of the day, as the
combs will melt. The bees will all leave, sometimes in an .
hour; at others it will take longer. They may be taken
off at evening, and let stand until morning, in fair weather ;
if not too cool, they are generally all out, but when they
stand so long, there is some risk of the moth finding them.
HOW TO GET RID OF THE BEES,
When boxes are taken off at the end of the honey sea-
son, a different method of getting rid of the bees must be
adopted, or we shall lose the honey. Unless the combs
are all finished, we shall inevitably lose some, as most of
the bees fill themselves before leaving, They carry it
home, and return immediately for more, and will take it
all if not prevented. It is recommended to take the boxes
to some dark room, with a small opening to let the bees
out. In the course of the day they will generally all leave,
but I have found this method unsafe, as they sometimes
find their way back. When a large number of boxes are
to be managed, a more expeditious mode is, to have a
large box with close joints, or an empty hogshead, or a
few barrels with one head out, set in a convenient place.
Put the boxes in, one above another, so as not to stop
the holes, and throw over the top a thin cloth, to admit
the light. The bees will leave the boxes, creep to the top,
and get on the cloth. Turn this over a few times, and
you will thus get rid of all the bees with but little loss of
honey. All the old bees will return to the hive, but a few
young ones will be lost.
BEES NOT DIS?OSED TO STING.
Bees seldom offer to sting during this operation, even
when the box is taken off without smoke, and carried
142 PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES.
away from the hive. After a little time, the bees finding
themselves away from home, will lose all animosity.
As honey becomes scarce, less brood is reared, and a great
many cells become empty, also several cells that contained
honey have been drained to mature the portion of brood
just started at the time of the failure. We can now under-
stand why our best stocks, that are very heavy, and but a few
days before were crowded for room, and storing in boxes,
are now eager for honey to store in the hive; as there is
room for several pounds. They will quickly remove to the
hive the contents of any box left exposed, or even risk their
lives by entering a neighboring hive in search of honey.
During a yield of honey, take off boxes as fast as
they are filled, and put on empty ones. At theend of the
season, take all off. Not one stock in a hundred will starve,
that has worked in boxes, that is, when the hive is of the
proper size, and was full before adding boxes, unless it has
been robbed, or met with some other misfortune.
I prefer taking off all boxes at the end of the first yield
of honey, even when I expect to put them on again for
buckwheat honey. The bees at this season collect a great
abundance of propolis, which they spread over the inside
of the boxes as well as the hive; in some instances it is
spread on the glass so thickly as to prevent the quality of
the honey from being seen. There is no necessity for
boxes on a hive, at any time, when there is no yield of
honey to fill them. Sometimes, even in a supply of buck-
wheat honey, a stock may contain too few bees to fill
boxes, but just enough to smear them with propolis, which
should not be allowed, as it makes them look badly when
used another year. At this season, (August) some old
stocks may be full of combs, and have but few bees; but
when swarms have the hive full in time, they are very
sure to have bees enough to work in boxes. I have known
them to do so in two weeks after being hived. Some put
PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 1438
on boxes at the time the swarms are hived. In such cases
the box is often filled first, and will quite often contain
brood. 1 consider it no advantage, but often a damage to
do so, unless the swarm is very large and early. I want
the hive full in any case, and if they have time to do more,
they may then enter the boxes, although they may gather
buckwheat instead of clover honey.
When the boxes are free from the bees, two things are
to be attended to, if we wish to preserve our honey till
cold weather. One is to keep out the worms, the other to
prevent souring. The last may be new to many, but it
sometimes occurs in warm weather from dampness. The
combs become covered with moisture, a portion of the
honey becomes thin like water, and turns sour. Remedy:
keep perfectly dry and cool, especially dry.
TO SECURE HONEY FROM WORMS.
But the worms, you can surely keep them out, you
think, since you can seal up the boxes perfectly close, pre-
venting the moth, or even the smallest ant from entering.
Yes, you may do this effectually, but the Worms will often
be there, unless kept in a very low temperature, as in a
very cool cellar, or house, and then you have dampness to
guard against. J store my surplus honey in a cool, dry
cellar, and have no trouble whatever with the moth worm.
I have taken off glass jars, and watclied them till the
bees were all out, and was certain the moth did not come
near them ; then immediately sealed them up, absolutely
preventing any access, and felt quite sure that I should
have no trouble with the worms. But I was sadly mis-
taken. In a few days, I could see a little white dust, like
flour, on the side of the combs, and bottom of the jar.
As the worms grew larger, this dust was coarser. By
looking closely at the combs, a small, white thread-like
line could be perceived, enlarging as the worm progressed.
144 PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES.
When combs are filled with honey, the worms work
only on the surface, eating nothing but the sealing of the
cells, seldom penetrating to the centre, unless there is an
empty cell. Disgusting as they seem to be, they dislike
being daubed with honey. Wax, not honey, is their food.
THE WAY THE WORMS GET IN.
The reader would like to know how these worms came
in the jars, when to all appearance, it was a physical im-
possibility. I would like to give a positive answer, but
can not. I will offer a theory, however, which is original,
and therefore open to criticism. If there is any better so-
lution of the problem, I would be glad to hear it.
From the Ist of June till late in the fall, the moth may
be found around our hives, active at night, but quiet by
day. Her only object, probably, is to find a suitable place
to deposit her eggs, where her young may have food. If
no proper and convenient place is found, she will be con-
tent with such as she can find. The eggs must be depos-
ited somewhere, and she leaves them in the cracks of the
hive, in the dust at the bottom, or outside as near the
entrance as she dare approach. The bees running over
them may accidentally attach one or more to their feet or
bodies, and carry them among the combs where they will
be left to hatch. It is not at all probable that the moth
ever passed through the hive, among the bees, to deposit
her eggs in the jars before mentioned. Had these jars
been left on the hive, not a worm would have ever defaced
a comb, because, when the bees are numerous, each worm
is removed as soon as it commences its work of destruc-
tion—that is, when it works on the surface, as it does in the
boxes. By taking off these jars, and removing the bees,
all the eggs that happened to be there had a fair chance.
Many writers finding the combs to be undisturbed when
left on the hive till cold weather, recommend that, as the
PUTTING ON AND TAKING OFF BOXES. 145
only safe way, preferring to have the combs a little darker
to the risk of their destruction by the worms. But I ob-
ject to dark combs; and leaving the boxes on will effectu-
ally prevent empty ones from taking their places, thereby
involving a loss of surplus honey. I will offer a few more
remarks in favor of my view, and then give my remedy
for the worms. I have found in all hives from which the
bees have been removed in warm weather, say between
the middle of June and September, moth eggs enough
among the combs to destroy them in a very short time,
unless kept in a very cool place. This result has been
uniform. Any person doubting this, may remove the bees
from a hive full of combs, in July or August. Close it to
prevent the entrance of a moth, and set it away in a tem.
perature ranging from 60° to 90°, and if there are not
worms enough to satisfy him, he will have better success
than I ever did.*
REMEDY.
Whether the foregoing theory is satisfactory or other-
wise, we will proceed to the remedy. Perhaps you will
find some boxes that will have no worms about them;
others may contain from ten to twenty when they have
been off a week or more. All the eggs should have time
to. hatch, which in cool weather may take three weeks.
They should be watched, that no worms get large enough
to materially injure the combs. Get a close barrel or box
that will confine the air as much as possible; in this put
the boxes with the holes open. Leave a place for a dish
in which to burn some sulphur matches, made by dipping
paper or rags in melted sulphur. When allis ready, ignite
* Dr. Kirtland, of Cleveland, 0.,, in a Jecture before the students of the Medical
College, in Cleveland, gave substantially this theory, in accounting for the
presence of the worms in the hive. Whether it originated with him or net, he
does not sav. ;
va
146 SWARMING.
the matches, and cover close for several hours. A little
care is necessary to use the right quantity ; if there is too
little, the worms are not killed ; if too much, it gives the
combs a green color. A little experience will soon enable
you to judge. Jf the worms are not killed on the first
trial, another dose must be administered. Whether this
gas from burning sulphur will destroy the egos of the
moth, I have not tested sufficiently to decide; but Ido
know that it is an effectual quietus for the larvae.
Much less sulphur will adhere to paper or rags, when it
is very hot, than when just above the temperature neces-
sary to melt it. This should be considered, also the num-
ber of boxes to be treated, size of the barrel used, ete.
Boxes taken off at the end of warm weather, and ex-
posed to cold through the winter, will have all the worms
as well as eggs destroyed, consequently boxes so exposed
may be kept any length of time, if the moth is carefully
excluded.
CHAPTER X.
SWARMING.
The subject now before us is one of exciting interest.
The prospect of an increase of stocks is sufficient to engage
the attention of the apiarian, even when the phenomenon
of swarming would fail to awaken it. But to the natural-
ist this season has charms that the indifferent beholder can
never realize.
KNOWLEDGE NECESSARY.
It is important that the practical apiarian, as well as the
naturalist, should have a thorough knowledge of this
branch of apiculture, and not accept any assertions without
SWARMING. 147
evidence. Twelve years ago, I found it necessary to es-
tablish many positions with facts, and also to give the
manner of obtaining them. But I now have the movable
comb hive, which gives ocular demonstration-of what then
appeared to be mere conjecture, and it will be unnecessary
to specify in every case the process by which I have
arrived at certain conclusions. I trust that the objector
will see the necessity of depending upon facts, instead of
any notion, imbibed from nursery tales. Neither will it
always do to reason analogically, because nature nowhere
gives us an exact parallel.
A noted politician who has reached an eminent position
as a legislator, declared a short time since, that the queen’
bee was a myth—that she existed only in the imagination
of ignorant bee-keepers. Every man who has taken the
first step in the investigation of apiarian science, knows
that he made a fool of himself quite unnecessarily.
WHEN SWARMING COMMENCES.
The swarming season in this latitude sometimes com-
mences May 15th, and at other times, July Ist. It usually
ends about the 15th cf the latter month. I have known
two seasons in Montgomery Co., N. Y., when swarms
continued to issue throughout the entire summer, begin-
ning in May and ending August 25th, with no interval of
more than a week without swarms. One of these, 1863,
was wet, and the flowers yielded but little honey. The
native bees sent out about one-third the usual number of
swarms, while the Italians continued to swarm for three
months. They did not store much more honey than
others, but they must have collected more to feed the
greater quantities of brood which they reared. Rather
than be idle when the yield was scanty, they collected
material, made combs, reared brood, and sent out swarms ;
and at the end of the season the colonies were as strong,
148 SWARMING.
and had as much honey as the natives, which had not
swarmed.
The bee-keeper who thinks much of his bees, will, of
course, wish to see and hive his swarms as they issue. If
neglected, for even a short time after they cluster, they
will often relieve themselves from such protection, and
seek the shelter of some old tree in the woods, humming
indignant reproaches as they leave. Without some
knowledge of the indications of swarms, we often watch
vainly for weeks, remaining at home, and perhaps neglect-
ing important business in the fruitless expectation that the
“bees will swarm.” External appearances are not to be
depended on. Very early swarms often issue before clus-
tering out; also, they very often cluster out without
swarming. It is necessary to look inside the hive for
reliable indications.
I have several apiaries away from home that need atten-
tion in the swarming season, and a person must be on
hand each fair day, to take charge of the swarms as they
issue. To avoid watching unnecessarily before they begin,
and after they cease, some one examines the hives in the
middle of the day.
INDICATIONS.
If they are box hives, a little smoke is blown under, the
hives turned over, the bees driven away with a little more
smoke, and the queen cells examined. If there are none
containing eggs or larve, or none with thin smooth walls,
evidently just begun, there is not much prospect of a swarm
for several days. There is always a possibility, however,
that some cells will be out of sight. But if any cells con-
tain eggs, or larve nearly ready to seal over, or actually
sealed over, we know at once what to expect. When
sealed over, the swarm will probably issue the next day.
This is at the beginning of the season. If at, or near the
SWARMING. 149
close, we examine again, and find the sealed queens
destroyed, we at once conclude that they are done
swarming.
CARE IN EXAMINING BEES,
Full hives require a little more care in turning over,
than others. You need not be in fear of the bees, running
up the sides of the hive; they will not sting. Lift the hive
carefully, and avoid breathing among them, except to blow
the smoke. It can be done at morning or evening, but
more bees are in the way, and they are more inclined to
be cross. In operating with the native bees, protection
for the face or hands is hardly necessary, but with the
Italians it would sometimes be well to put something over
the face.
To a person who has never inverted a hive full to over-
flowing of bees, or has never seen it done, it appears like a
great undertaking, as well as the probable ruin of the
stocks. But after the first trial, the magnitude of the per-
formance is greatly diminished, and will grow less with
every repetition of the feat, until there is not the least
dread attending it. Without smoke, I hardly deem it
practicable, but with it there is not the least difficulty. It
would be very unsatisfactory to turn over a hive, and have
nothing with which to drive the bees away from the very
places which you wish particularly to inspect. The smoke
is just the thing to do it.
I never discovered any bad effects of such overturning
and smoking.
“With the movable comb hive we have only to lift out
the frames, to be able to predict when a swarm may be
expected.
I have found the requisites for all regular swarms to be
something like this. The combs must be crowded with
bees; they must contain a numerous brood advancing from
150 SWARMING.
the egg to maturity, and the bees must be obtaining honey
either from flowers, or artificial sources.* A surplus of
bees in a scarcity of honey is insufficient to bring out the
swarm, neither will plenty of honey suffice, without the
bees and brood. The period of proper duration in which
all these conditions exist, will vary in different stocks, and
many times does not occur at all during the season.
These causes appear to result in the construction of
queen cells, generally begun before the hive is filled ;
sometimes when only half full.
PREPARATIONS FOR SWARMING.
They are about one third done when they receive the
eggs; as these eggs hatch into larve, others are begun,
wid Tall and receive eggs ,
cb ae
Soe ue,
well ava
at different periods
for several days
later. The num-
ber of such cells
seems to be gov-
erned by the pros-
perity of the bees;
when the family is
large, and the yield
of honey abun-
dant, they may
construct twenty,
at other times not
more than two or
Fig. 22.—cLUSTER OF QUEEN CELLS. three, although
tinea cette. Cell/rom rhich a Wnir queen has emerg. Several such cells
ed; , Cell in which the queen hag been destroyed by a .
rival, and removed by the workers. may remainempty.
T have already said that a failure, or even a partial one,
* The Ilalians will swarm sooner than the native bee when obtaining but iittle
honey.
SWARMING. 151
in the yield of honey at any time after the royal eggs are
deposited, before the sealing of the cells—which is about
ten days—will be likely to ensure their destruction, Even
after being sealed, I have sometimes known them to be
destroyed.
WIEN SWARMS ISSUE,
But when there is nothing precarious about the supply
of honey, the sealing of these cells indicates the first
swarm, which will generally issue on the first fair day after
one or more are finished. Ihave never missed a prediction
of a swarm, when I have judged from these signs, in a
prosperous season.
When there is a partial failure of honey, the swarm
will sometimes wait several days after finishing these cells.
If the family is strong, and there is a sudden increase in
the yield of honey, the swarm may not wait for the sealing
of any cells, but will issue about the time, or very soon
after, eggs are laid in them. This occurs sufficiently often
to be mentioned as an exception to the rule. But never-
theless, the rule is, to expect the first swarm upon the
sealing of any of the royal cells.
Again, if there is a failure of honey when these cells are
finished, there may be no swarm. A failure often occurs
between fruit blossoms and white clover, and also at the
end of the honey season, whether it be the first, middle, or
last of July. The first deficiency occurs about June Ist.
If fruit blossoms have yielded only a moderate amount of
honey, the strong stocks that have a good supply, feeling their
importance, like some specimens of the human family, who
consider a moderate competence inexhaustible, will indulge
in extravagance by rearing a useless number of drones.
When the income ceases, and famine is close at hand,
something must be done to save the colony. The drones
are sacrificed for the good of the community ; even the
152 SWARMING.
brood is destroyed, queen cells demolished, and all idea of
swarming given up. The destruction of drones at any
time may be accepted as evidence that, for the time being,
swarming is over. Colonies possessing but a moderate
supply of bees and honey, usually work on safe principles ;
they can not afford to rear any drones, and when the
scarcity between fruit blossoms and clover occurs, they
pass the crisis without any sacrifice, and are ready to take
-advantage of the first yield, and will throw out swarms
long before those who were apparently far more prosper-
ous in the beginning of spring. This explains how a
second-rate stock may sometimes_surpass a “No.1” in
swarming, which has been quite a mystery to many bee-
keepers.
WHY DRONES ARE SOMETIMES KILLED IN SPRING.
I have seen statements going the rounds of the agricul.
tural press like this: ‘There will be no swarms this year,
as the bees have killed off their drones.” This fact does
not settle the matter for the season, by any means, but it
will assuredly be some weeks before they can possibly get
another brood of drones under way. After a reverse of
this kind, they will not begin again until honey is obtained
in abundance, and it is quite often that all the conditions
are not present again, until the season is so far advanced
that it is too late. Occasionally they make preparations
the second time, and again abandon them. It is quite un-
usual for none of them to send out swarms late in the
season.
Who will say that bees do not manifest wisdom? What
prudent man would emigrate with a family if famine were
plainly indicated, when by remaining at home, he would
have a present abundance? Who can fail to admire this
wise and beautiful arrangement ? The combs must con-
tain brood ; the bees must find honey during the rearing
SWARMING. 1538
of the queens. Ifa swarm were to issue as soon as honey
were obtained, the consequences might be fatal, as there
would not be a numerous brood to hatch out, and replen-
ish the old stock with bees enough to keep out the worms.
Were they to issue at any time, as soon as the bees had
increased enough to spare a swarm, without regard to the
yield of honey, they might starve.
WHICH BEES ISSUE.
I find many theories conflicting with these views which
need attention. It is generally supposed that a young
queen must be matured to issue with the swarms, and that
the old queen and old bees are permanent residents of the
old hive. It is probable that no rule governs the issue of
the workers. Old and young come out promiscuously.
That old bees issue with a swarm is evident from the fact
that sometimes not a quarter as many will be left as com-
menced work in the spring. Also a great many may be
seen in late swarms, with wings so worn as to be unable to
fly with the load of honey which they attempt to carry. I
have seen enough get down in this way, from one swarm,
to fill a pint measure.
That young bees leave, any one may be satisfied on see-
ing a swarm issue. A great many too young and weak to
fly, will drop down in front of the hive, having come out
now for the first time, perhaps not an hour out of the cell;
these very young bees may be known by their color. That
these may creep back to the hive, is another inducement
to set it near the ground.
The old queen often gets down in the same way, but her
burden of eggs is probably the cause of her inability to fly.
THE OLD QUEEN LEAVES.
That the old queen leaves with the first swarm is so
easily proved with the movable comb hive, that it is un-
pe
154 SWARMING.
necessary to occupy several pages in maintaining it. After
the swarm has left, you have only to examine the combs,
to be assured that she is nowhere in the hive. The absence
of eggs in the cells is other proof. ;
HIVES SHOULD BE READY.
We will now suppose that some of your colonies are
ready to send out swarms, and will also presume that the
empty hives for the reception of swarms are in readiness.
To prepare a hive after the swarm has issued, indicates
bad management; negligence here, argues negligence
elsewhere ; it is one of the premonitions of “ bad luck.”
You will also want a number of bottom boards expressly
for hiving. Get a board a little larger than the bottom of
the hive, nail strips across the ends on the under side, to
prevent warping ; in the middle cut out a space five or six
inches square, and cover with wire-cloth. These are for
your large swarms in very hot weather, to be used for
four or five days. It is much safer to use them than to
raise the hive an inch or two for ventilation. They are
also essential on many other occasions.
IMMEDIATE INDICATIONS OF A SWARM.
When the day is fair, and there is not too much wind,
first swarms generally issue from 10 A. M., till 3 P. M.
The first outside indication of a swarm will be an unusual
number of bees about the entrance, from one to sixty
minutes before they start. The utmost confusion seems
to prevail, bees run about in every direction, and the en-
trance is apparently closed by the mass of bees; present-
ly a column from the interior, forces a passage to the open
air; they rush out by hundreds, vibrating their wings, and
when a few inches from the entrance, rise in the air; some
rush up the side of the hive, others to the edge of the
bottom-board. If you have seen the old queen come out
SWARMING. 155
the first one, and the rest following her, as we are often
told she does, you have seen what I never did in a first
swarm. I have occasionally seen the old queen issue, but
not before the swarm was half out. Second and third
swarms conduct themselves quite differently.
The bees, when first rising from the hive, describe cir-
cles of but few feet, but as they recede, they spread over
an area of several rods. Their movements are much
slower than usual. In a few moments thousands may be
seen revolving in every possible direction. A swarm may
be seen and heard at a distance where fifty hivés at ordi-
nary work would not be noticed.
SWARM CLUSTERS,
When all are out of the hive, or soon after, some branch
of a tree or bush is usually selected upon which to cluster.
In less than half a minute after the spot is indicated, even
when the bees are spread over an acre, they are gathered
in the immediate vicinity, and all cluster in a body, in
from five to ten minutes after leaving the hive. They
should be hived immediately, as they show impatience if
left long, especially in the sun; also if another colony
should send out a swarm while they were hanging there,
they would be quite sure to unite.
HOW TO DO IT.
It makes but little difference in what way they are put
into the hive, provided they are all made to go in. Pro-
ceed as is most convenient ; an old table or bench is very
good to keep them out of he grass, should there happen to
be any. If there is nothing in the way, lay your bottom-
board on the ground, make it level, set your hive on it
and raise one edge an inch or more with small sticks or
stones, to give the bees a chance to enter.
Cut off the branch on which the bees are hanging, if it
156 SWARMING,
can be doneas well as not, and shake them off in front ofthe
hive ; a portion will discover it and will at once commence
a vibration of their wings, which seems to be a call for the
others. A knowledge that a new home is found, seems to
be communicated in this way, as it is continued until all
have entered. A great many are apt to stop about the
entrance, thereby nearly or quite closing it, and preventing
others from going in. You can expedite their progress
by gently disturbing them with a stick or quill. When
gentle means will not induce them to enter in a reasonable
time, and they appear obstinate, a little water sprinkled on
them will greatly facilitate operations. Be careful and not
overdo the matter by using too much water; they can be
made so wet that they will not move at all.
When they cluster on a branch that you do not wish to
cut off, arrange the bottom-board as before directed, then
turn the hive bottom up directly under the main part of
the cluster, and if you have an assistant, let him jar the
branch sufficiently to dislodge the bees; most of them will
fall directly into thehive. If no assistant is at hand, strike
the under side of the branch with the bottom of the hive,
and when the bees have fallen in it, set it on the board;
the sticks will prevent the bottom from crushing the bees.
T have gone up a ladder twenty fect high, got the bees
in the hive in this way, and backed down without difficul-
ty. After putting the hive in its place, sometimes a part
of the bees will go back to the alighting place; in that
case a small leafy branch should be held directly under
and close to them, and as many jarred on it as possible.
Hold this still, and shake the other to prevent their clus-
tering there ; you will soon have them all collected, ready
to bring down and put by the hive.
A basket or large tin pan may be taken up the ladder
instead of the hive, from which the bees can be readily
emptied before it. But very few will fly out in com.
SIVARMING. 157
ing down. If you succeed in getting nearly all the bees at
the first effort, merely shaking the branch will be sufficient
to prevent the remainder from alighting, and will turn
their attention below, where those which have already
found a hive will be doing their best to call them. When
the hive is first turned over, most of the bees will fall on
the board and rush out, but as.soon as they realize that a
home is found, they will commence buzzing. This quickly
communicates the fact to those outside, who immediately
turn about and hum in concert while marching in.
Another plan may be adopted if they light very high,
when the branch is not too large, and there. is not too
much in the way below it. Have ready two or three light
poles of suitable length, with a branch at-the upper end,
large enough to support a bushel basket. Raise the basket
directly under the swarm, and with another pole dislodge
all the bees. They will fall into it and may be quickly let
down. Now, if you have secured nearly all, throw a sheet
over them for a few moments to prevent their escape.
They soon become quiet, when they may be hived, and
but few will return to the branch, as many will do when
they are put in the hive immediately. When many
swarms are to be brought down in this way, a bag may be
prepared which can be put up among the branches where
it would be difficult to use a basket. Sew a hoop around
the top of a bag, and fasten one side of it to a piece of
wood two inches square, and three feet long, four inches
from one end. Brace the hoop with a strong wire fastened
six inches below. Around the lower end of the stick, fas-
ten a band of hoop iron twelve inches long, in such a
manner that it will form a loop two inches in diameter, on
one side, and make another loop one inch in diameter, in
the same way, one foot above. Light poles of different
lengths should be fitted into these bands.
When ready to operate, put in a pole long enough to
158 SWARMING.
reach the bees, and raise the mouth of the bag directly
under them. With the-end that projects above the hoop,
strike the limb upon which the bees have clustered, with
force sufficient to jar them into the bag. By dexterously
i a 7 |
Fig. 23.—BaG FOR HIVING BEES.
tipping it sideways, the mouth of the bag can be effectually
closed, and the bees brought to the ground without diffi-
culty. In a few minutes they become quiet, and can be
hived as before mentioned.
This method is generally to be preferred to ascending
the ladder.
Bees often begin to cluster near the ground, in a con-
venient situation for hiving. In such a case I do not wait
_SWARMING. 159
tor all to alight, but as soon as such place is indicated, I
get the board and hive ready. When a quart or so are
gathered, I shake them in the hive, and set it up; the
swarm will now go to that, instead of the branch, espe-
cially if the latter is shaken a little. Where many bees
are kept, it is advisable to be as expeditious as possible.
A swarm will thus be hived much sooner than when al-
lowed to cluster.
Swarms will sometimes alight in places where it is im-
possible to jar them off, such as a large limb, or trunk of
atree. In which case place the hive near, as first direct-
ed; take a large tin dipper—the most convenient vessel
for the purpose—and dip it full of bees; with one hand
turn back the hive, and with the other put the bees into it.*
Some of them will discover that a home is provided, and
set up the buzzing. The remainder can be emptied in
front of the hive as you dip them off. I have known a few
instances when the first dipper fall all ran out and joined
the others without making the discovery that they were in
a hive, but this is seldom the case. When you get the
queen in, there will, be no trouble with the remainder,
even if there are many left.
As soon as they ascertain that the queen is not among
them, they will manifest it by their uneasy movements,
ALL SHOULD BE MADE TO ENTER.
They will soon leave and join those in the hive, or if the
queen is yet on the tree, even if there be but a dozen with
her, those in the hive will leave and cluster again. In all
cases they must all be made to enter; a cluster outside
may contain the queen, unconscious of a home, and the
consequence might be, her departure for a miserable one
in the woods.
* Dipping is preferable to brushing with a wing or broom, as the latter irritates
them exceedingly...
160 SWARMING.
CARRY TO THE STAND.
When all are in, except a few that will be flying, let the
hive close down to the board, take hold of this and carry
it at once to the stand which they are to occupy, and raise
the front edge half an inch, unless you use the bottom
board recommended. Let the back rest on the board,
that they may have means to re-ascend, if they chance to
fall, which large swarms often do in hot weather. If the
bottom is an inch or more from the board when they thus
fall, there is nothing to prevent their rushing out on every
side; they can not easily get up again, and if the queen
comes out with the rush, there are some chances of their
leaving.
TO PUT THEM IN A MOVABLE COMB HIVE.
There are but few movable comb hives which the bees
will as readily enter as the box. It is usually the least
trouble to put the swarm in a box hive, and transfer to
the other, near evening, or at your first leisure. A plain
box made of thin boards, is lighter and easier handled than
a common box hive. Carry the swarm to the stand, and
if the hive is like the one I use, remove the honey board,
spread the frames each way from the middle, and shake
the bees directly in the hive between the frames, as you
would a quantity of grain. Before many can creep out,
lay on the honey board. As the hive is close to the bot-
tom, no bees can get out except at the entrance, and these
will immediately turn about. Ifa few are yet adhering to
the box, give it a jar in front of the hive. After all are
quiet, the frames may be properly adjusted.
SHADE IMPORTANT.
Tt is very important that swarms should be protected
from the sun for several daysin hot weather, from nine o’clock
till three or four ; and then if the heat is very oppressive,
SWARMING. 161
and the bees cluster outside, sprinkle them with water and
drive them in. Wetting the hive occasionally will carry
off a large portion of the heat, and make it much more
comfortable.
CLUSTERING BUSHES.
Tf there are no large trees in the vicinity of your apiary,
all the better; there will then be no trouble with the
swarms lighting out of reach, but all bee-keepers are not
so fortunate. In a place where there are no natural con-
yeniences, it is necessary to provide something for them
to cluster on. Get some bushes six or eight feet high—
evergreens are preferuble—cut off the ends of the branches
except a few near the top, secure the whole with strings,
to prevent swaying in ordinary winds, make a hole in the
earth deep enough to hold them, and so large that they
may be easily lifted ont. The bees will be likely to clus-
ter on some of these; they can then be raised out and the
swarm hived without difficulty. A bunch of dry mullen-
tops tied together on the end of a pole, makes avery good
place for clustering ; it so nearly resembles a swarm that
bees themselves appear to be sometimes deceived. Ihave
frequently known them to leave a branch where they had
begun to cluster, and settle on this when held near.
The reasons for immediately removing the swarm to the
stand, are, that they are generally more convenient to
watch in case they are disposed to leave, and many bees
can be saved. All that leave the hive, mark the location
the same as in spring. Several hundreds will probably
leave the first day, a few, several times. When removed
at night to the permanent stand, such will return to the
stand of the previous day, and are generally lost, whereas,
if they are removed at once, this loss is avoided.
Those that are left flying at the time, return to the old
stock, which those that return from the swarm the next
162 SWARMING.
day will not always do. It will take no longer to move
them at one time than at another. It is useless to object,
and say that “it will take too long to wait for the bees to
get in.” I shall insist on your making all the bees enter
before you leave them. I consider this an essential feature
in the management. I will not say that my directions will
always prevent their going to the woods, but in my expe-
rience, not one in a thousand has ever thus left. It is
possible that judicious management has had no influence
upon my success, yet I have indulged something like an
opinion of this kind for a long time.
LOSS BY FLIGHT.
Some of my neighboring bee-keepers lose a quarter or
half their swarms by flight, and how do they manage ?
When the word is given out, “Bees swarming,” a tin
horn, tin pan, or any thing to make a horrible din, is seized
upon, and as much noise made as possible, to make them
cluster, which they naturally would do, without the music.
The fact that they would cluster in any case, probably
gave rise to the opinion of the old lady who knew “ drum-
ming on a tin pan did good, for she had tried it.” Very
often a hive is to be constructed, or an old one, unfit to
use in any shape, must have some new cross sticks; or
something else must be done to take time. When the
hive is obtained, it must be washed with something nice
to make the bees like it ; a little honey, or sugar and wa-
ter, molasses and water, salt and water, must be daubed on
the inside; or salt and water rubbed on with hickory
leaves is “the best thing in the world;” several other
things are just as good, and some are better. Even
whiskey, that bane of man, has been offered them as a
bribe to stay, and sometimes they endure these nuisances,
and go to work.
SWARMING. ‘ 163
NOTHING BUT BEES NECESSARY IN A IVE.
I will not say positively that all these things do harm,
yet I am quite sure that they do no good, as nothing is
needed but bees in a hive. Is it reasonable to suppose that
they are fond of all the “knick-knacks” given them? J
have never used any, and could not possibly have done
much better. I am careful to have the hive sweet and
clean, and not too smooth inside; an old hive that has
been used before, is scalded and scraped.
But to the manner in which people get the bees in,
after the hive is ready. A table with a cloth spread over
it, is set out, and the hive prepared as above, is set upon
it. If they succeed in getting the swarm even on the
outside of the hive, it is left ; if it goes in, it is well; if it
goes off, “ better luck next time.’ The hive is left unshel-
tered in the hot sun, and when there is no wind the heat
is seon insupportable, or at least very oppressive. The
bees hang in loose strings instead of a compact body, as
when kept cool. They are very apt to fall, and when they
do, will rush out on every side; if the queen chance to
drop with them, they may “ step out.” Two-thirds of all
the bees that go to the woods, are managed in this, or a
similar manner, and may it not be said they are fairly
driven off?
Hives painted some dark color will become intolerably
warm in the sun, and are often deserted. The rank smell
of newly painted hives of any color, often causes the bees
to leave for more pleasant quarters in the woods.
Perhaps one swarm in three hundred will depart for the
woods without clustering. But I have never had one
leave methus. Yet I have indisputable evidence that some
will do it.
164 SWARMING.
DO THEY SELECT A HOME BEFORE SWARMING.
The inquiry is often made, do all swarms have a place
selected before leaving the parent stock? The answer
to this must ever be conjectural. I could relate some cir-
cumstances favoring the affirmative, and as many for the
negative, but will let it pass. Yet I think if bees are pro-
perly cared for, that ninety-nine swarms in a hundred will
prefer a good clean hive to a rotten tree in the woods.
HOW FAR WILL THEY GO.
How far they will go in search of a home is also uncer-
tain. I have heard of their going seven miles, but could
not learn how the fact was proved. I have no experience
of my own upon this point, but will relate a circumstance
that happened near me. While a neighbor was plowing, a
swarm passed over him; being near the earth, he “ pelted
them heartily ” with loose dirt, which brought them down,
and they clustered on a low bush; they were hived and
gave no further trouble. A man living some three miles
from this one, on that day hived a swarm about eleven
o’clock, and left them to warm up in the sun, as just de-
scribed. About three o’clock, their stock of patience being
probably exhausted, they resolved to seek a better shelter.
They departed in a great hurry, not even waiting to thank
their owner for the spread on his table, and the choice
perfumery with which he had scented their hive. They
gave him no notice whatever of their intention “to quit,”
until they were moving! With all their goods ready
packed, they were soon under way, accompanied by their
owner with music, but whether they marched with milita-
ry precision, is uncertain. In this case, the bees took the
lead ; the man with his tin-pan music, kept the rear, and
was soon at a respectful distance. They were either not
in a mood, just then, to be charmed by melodious sounds,
or their business was too urgent to allow them to stop and
SWARMING, 165
listen. Their means of locomotion being superior to his,
he gave up in despair and out of breath, at the end of a
mile. :
Another person, about the same time in the day, saw a
swarm moving in the same direction; he also followed
them till compelled to yield to their greater locomotive
powers. A third discovered their flight, and likewise at-
tempted a race, but like the others, was soon left behind.
The before-mentioned neighbor saw them, and stopped
them as described.
How much farther they would have gone, it is of course
impossible to say. That it was the same swarm that
started three miles away, appears almost conclusive.
We will now return to the issuing of the swarms. There
will be some emergencies to provide for, and some excep-
tions to notice.
If we keep many colonies, the chances are that two or
more may issue at one time ; and when they do, they will
nearly always cluster together. It is plain that the greater
the number of colonies, the more such chances are multi-
plied.
ONE FIRST SWARM HAS BEES ENOUGH.
One first swarm, if of the usual size, will contain bees
enough for profit, yet two such will work together with-
out quarreling, and will store about one-third more than
either would alone; that is, if each single swarm would
gather fifty pounds, the two together would not get over
seventy pounds, perhaps less. Here then is a loss of thirty
pounds, besides the virtual loss of one of the swarms for
another year; because such double stocks are not gener-
ally any better the next spring, and not often as good as
single ones. Hence the advantage of keeping the first
swarms separate, is apparent.
166 SWARMING.
HOW TO KEEP SWARMS SEPARATE.
“Prevention is better than cure.” We can, if we are
watchful, often prevent the issue of more than one at a
time. This depends in a great measure, on our knowledge
of indications. I have said that before beginning to fly
off, they were about the entrance in great numbers; there
may be one exception in twenty, when the first indica-
tions will be a column of bees rushing from the hive. To
pursue our investigations a little further, we will look
within, that is, if glass boxes are used, such as have been
recommended. It is an advantage to know which are
about to cast swarms, as long beforehand as possible.
These glass boxes are usually filled with bees; previous
to leaving they may often be seen in commotion long be-
fore any unusual stir is visible outside, sometimes for nearly
an hour. The same may be noticed in a glass hive. In
good weather, when we have reason to expect many
swarms, it is our duty to watch closely, especially when
the weather has been unfavorable for several days previous.
A number of colonies may have finished their queen cells
during the bad weather, and be ready to send out swarms
within the first hour of sunshine that occurs in the middle
of the day. We must expect this to take place sometimes,
and in large apiaries there is apt to be trouble, unless pro-
per precautions are taken. It is well to know by previous
examination, which hives have made preparations for
swarming, and as soon as one has begun to issue, look at
all the rest that are in condition to swarm; or, what is
much better, look before any have started. Even if noth-
ing unusual is perceived about the entrance, raise the cover
to the boxes. If the bees there are all quiet as usual, no
swarm need be immediately apprehended, and you will
probably have time to hive one or two without interruption.
But should you discover the bees running to and fro in
great commotion, although quiet at the entrance, you
SWARMING. 167
should lose no time in sprinkling those outside with water.
They will instantly enter the hive to avoid the apprehend-
ed shower. In half an hour they will be ready to start
again, during which time the others may be secured. I
have had, in one apiary, sixteen hives all ready in one day,
all of which actually swarmed, and several would have
started at once had they not been kept back, allowing only
one to issue at a time, as described. They had been hin-
dered by the clouds, which broke away about noon.
When any of the subsequent swarms were disposed to
unite with those already hived, a sheet was thrown over
to keep them out. I had four so covered at once. An
assistant is very useful at such times; one can watch symp-
toms, and detain the swarms, while another hives them.
Occasionally when waiting for a swarm to start, two may
do so simultaneously.
CAN NOT BE STOPPED WHEN PART ARE ON THE WING.
Whenever a part was already on the wing, I never suc-
ceeded in retarding the issue ; it is then useless to try to
drive or coax them back. To succeed, the means must be
applied before any part of the swarm leaves.
Two or more swarms will cluster together and not
quarrel, if put into one hive. I have already mentioned
the disadvantages. Unless business is very urgent, your
time can not be better employed than in dividing them
HOW TO DIVIDE.
But it is necessary first to provide a stock of patience, as
it may be a long job. Spread a sheet on the ground,
shake the bees upon the centre of it, and set an empty
hive each side of the mass, with the edges raised to allow
the bees to enter; if too many are disposed to enter one
hive, set it farther off. If they cluster in a situation where
they can not be hived in a body, they may be dipped off
168 SWARMING,
as before directed, but instead of putting them all in one
hive, put a dipper full in each, alternately, till all are in.
They should be made to enter rapidly ; keep the entrance
clear and stir them up often, or sprinkle a very little wa-
ter on them, as they should not be allowed to stop their
humming until all are inside. There are even chances of
getting a queen in each hive. The two hives should now
be placed twenty feet apart; if each has a queen, the bees
will remain quiet, and the work is done; but if not, the
bees in the one destitute will soon manifest it, by running
about in all directions, and when the queen can not be
found, will leave for the other hive where there are doubt-
less two, a few going at atime. There are two or three
methods of separating these queens. One is, to empty
the bees out, and proceed as before, a game of chance that
may succeed at the next trial, and may have to be indefi-
nitely repeated. Or, as soon as it is ascertained which is
without a queen, spread down a sheet, set the hive on it,
and tie the corners over the top to secure the bees. Turn
the hive on its side for the present, to give them air, or let
it down on a wire cloth bottom-board, and stop the hole in
the side. The bees would be less likely to be smothered
if the hive could be secured to the bottom board and lie
on its side. When these are secured, get another hive,
and jar out those with the queens. Let them enter as be-
fore, and then set them apart, watching the result. Ifthe
queens are not yet separated, it will soon be shown. The
process must be continued till successful, or the bees with
the queens may be easily looked over, and one of them
found. Indeed, a sharp look out should be continued from
the beginning, and one of the queens caught if possible.
No danger of her sting need be.apprehended, for she
will not demean herself to use it against a plebeian foe—
she must have a royal antagonist. When successful in
obtaining one, put her in a tumbler or some sate place ;
SWARMING. 169
then put the bees in two hives, place them as directed,
and you will soon learn where your queen is needed. Af:
ter the work is completed, the hives should be at least
twenty feet apart; perhaps forty would be still better.
When two swarms are mixed, and then separated, it is
evident that a portion of each swarm must be in both
hives. The queen in each must be a stranger toa part of
her subjects; these might, if their own mother was too
near, discover her, and leave the stranger for an old ac-
quaintance, and in the act, attract the rest with them,
including the queen. I have known a few instances of
the kind. If you are disposed to separate them, but are
afraid to work among them to this extent in the middle of
the day, or if there is danger of more issues to mix with
them, and add to the perplexity of which you already have
enough, then you can hive them as a single swarm, but in-
stead of using a bottom board, invert an empty hive, and
set the one containing the swarm, on it, and insert a wedge
between them on one side, for ventilation. Many bees are
liable to drop down, but the lower hive will catch them,
and there is less danger of their leaving.
Let them remain till near sunset, when another course
must be taken to find a queen, though by that time one is
sometimes killed—yet it is well to know the fact. Take
them to some place out of the sun, as a less number will
fly during the operation.
Look in the lower hive for a dead queen, and if you find
none, look thoroughly as far as possible, for a compact
cluster of bees, the size of a hen’s egg, that may be rolled
about without separating. Secure this cluster in a tum-
bler; it is quite likely that one of the queens is a prisoner
in the middle.* Should two be seen, secure both. Then
* All stranger queens, introduced intoa stock or swarm, are secured and de-
tained in this manner by the workers, but whether they dispatch them, or this is
a means adopted to incite them to a deadly conflict, writers do rot agree, and I
8
170 SWARMING.
divide the bees and give the destitute one a queen ; or, if
you have caught two, one to each. It would be well first
to see if the queen is alive, by removirg the bees from
about her. But should you find no cluster of the kind,
spread a sheet on the ground, shake the bees on one end
of it, and let them march towards the hive at the other
end. You may now see the cluster, and may not, but they
will spread out, and give you a good opportunity to see
her majesty. When you discover her, secure her by set-
ting a tumbler over her. If there are a few bees shut up
with her, there is no harm done. Slip a piece of window-
glass under, and you will have her safe, and by this time
you will know what is to be done next. This operation
could not well be performed in the middle of the day, or
in the sun, as so many bees would be flying that they
would greatly interfere.
Should you fail to find a queen, and be unable to make
a division in consequence, or resolve from want of time,
patience, or energy, to let them remain together, it is un-
necessary to put them in any larger hive than usual ; they
will certainly have room enough by cold weather. If
there are more than two together, they should be divided
by all means. When two large swarms are left together,
it is necessary to keep an inverted hive under them for
the first three or four days, but no longer, as they might
extend their combs into the lower hive. When the lower
hive is-removed, boxes should be immediately put on, which
should be changed for empty ones, as fast as they are filled.
Yet this extra honey is of not quite as much advantage as
an increase of stocks ; when the latter is an object, I would
recommend the following disposition of the swarms.
can not say, as I never saw the bees voluntarily release a queen thus confined.
But I have seen queens, when not prevented by the bees, rush together in afatal
encounter, of which one was soon left a falien victim. It is said that {t never
happens that both are killed in these battles—perhaps not. I never saw w/ of
these royal combats and, of course, am not competent to decide.
SWARMING. 171
Return one-third or more of them, without any queen,
to one of the old stocks. They will immediately enter
without any contention, and issue again in about nine days,
or as soon as a young queen is matured to go with them.
There may be exceptional cases. I would recommend this
course in all cases of the kind, but they are apt to be
rather idle, even when they might labor in the boxes, and
there is often a loss of some eight or ten days. The col-
lections of a good swarm may be estimated at from one to
three pounds per day. A swarm that just fills the hive,
would gather, from ten to twenty-five pounds of box
honey, if it could have been located ten days earlier.
Still another plan may be adopted, when you have a very
small swarm that is not likely to fill the hive, and has not
been hived more than two or three days.
Put one-third of your two swarms in with that, taking
care, as before, not to let your only queen go with them.
The manner of doing it is very simple. Put them ina
hive as before directed, and jar them out in front of the
one you wish them to enter, or invert it, setting the other
over, and let them go up.
Except on the day of swarming, care is necessary not to
introduce a small number with a large swarm, as they are
liable to be destroyed. The danger is much greater than
to put equal numbers together, or a large number with a
few. On the day that swarms issue, they will generally
mix peaceably, but in proportion as time intervenes be-
tween the issues, the hability to quarrel will increase.
Yet, I have united two families of about equal numbers in
the fall and spring, and with a few exceptions, have had
no difficulty.
DIFFERENT PROCESS WITH MOVABLE COMB HIVE.
The foregoing remarks are for those who use the box
hive. But those using the movable combs will have less
172 SWARMING.
trouble. All the bees may be put into one hive, with the
surplus boxes on the top, and if necessary an empty hive
under, There is room on the top for one-third more box-
es, than on the box hive. If the weather has been good,
they may be divided in a week, by putting half the combs
in an empty hive, and proceeding as directed in chap, x1.
If you have empty combs on hand, divide the swarms
at once. As soon as you ascertain which has no queen,
shut it up, and when it is so dark that the bees will not
fly, put them in the hive containing combs. Previously
insert a small piece of comb containing brood, from which
they may raise a queen, that is, when you can not furnish
a queen or queen cell.
If you have a laying queen to'spare, it is not all impor-
tant to have combs for the queenless division; simply
put them in an empty hive, and give them a caged queen.
If they do not stay willingly, confine them a day or two;
when the queen is set at liberty they will usually be con-
tented.
The difference in time gained by giving them a laying
queen, instead of the means of rearing one, is about three
weeks, equivalent in value to a small swarm. I have but
little doubt that an improved system of bee culture will
make it profitable to rear queens, and keep them on hand
for such emergencies, as well as for all occasions where
new queens are needed. It will sometimes insure a gain
equal to the difference between a fair profit and actual
loss. Should a new swarm lose its queen, you may intro-
duce one in a cage immediately, liberating her in about
forty-eight hours.
Another means of keeping swarms separate is the
“ swarm-catcher,” made by covering a frame with fine net-
ting, to be set before the hive when the swarm is issuing.
But as it seems to keep back part of the swarm, and is al-
so open to other objections, I have laid it aside.
SWARMING, 173
SWARMS SOMETIMES RETURN.
Occasionally a swarm will issue, and in a few minutes
return to the old stock. The most common cause is the
inability of the old queen to fly, on account of her burden
of eggs, or old age. I have sometimes, after the swarm
had returned, found the queen near the hive, and put her
back; and the next day she would come out again, and
fly without difficulty, probably having discharged some of
her eggs.
They are more apt to return in windy weather, or when
the sun is partially obscured by clouds. About three-
fourths of such swarms will not re-issue until a young
queen is matured, eight or ten days afterwards, and a few
not at all. But when the queen returns with the swarm,
they usually come out again the next day, but sometimes
not before the third or fourth day after. I have known
a few instances, when they issued again the same day.
Sometimes a swarm will issue and return three or four
days in succession, but this may generally be remedied, as
it is often owing to some inability of the queen; and she
may frequently be found while the swarm is leaving, out-
side the hive, unable to fly. In such circumstances, have
a tumbler ready and secure her as soon as she appears.
Get the empty hive for the swarm, and a large cloth, and
put down a bottom-board a few feet from the stock. The
swarm is sure to come back, and the first bees that alight
on the hive will set up the call, As soon as you perceive
this, lose no time in setting the old stock on the board at
one side, throwing the cloth over it to keep out the bees.
Put the new one in its place on the stand, and the queen
in it; in a few minutes the swarm will be in the new
hive, when it can be removed and the old one replaced.
But should the swarm begin to cluster in a convenient
place, when you have so caught the queen, by being ex-
peditious she may be put with them, before they have
174 SWARMING,
missed her, and they may be hived in the usual way.
In all cases, whether you set a new hive in place of the
old one or not, whenever a swarm returns, if other hives
stand near on each side, they are quite sure to receive a
portion of the bees, probably a few hundreds, which are
certain to be killed. To prevent this, cover them until
the bees have gathered on their own hive. This is another
argument in favor of plenty of room between hives.
Should no queen be discovered during the issue or return
of the swarm, she should be sought for in the vicinity of
the hive, and returned if found ; and the swarm will be
likely to issue several days earlier than if obliged to wait
for a young queen.
When the old queen is actually lost, and the bees have
returned to wait for a young one, they are ready to leave
one or two days sooner than regular second swarms.
Whether a greater number of bees in the old hive, gener-
ating more animal heat, matures the chrysalis queen in
less time than a stock thinned by casting a swarm, or some
other cause operates, I can not say. I mention it because
I have known it to occur frequently.
A swarm unaccompanied by a queen, is scattered more
than usual when flying.
In most cases where the queens are unable to fly, they
are old, and past the age of usefulness, and it is not of
much consequence if they are lost. They would die soon,
in any event.
FIRST SWARMS CHOOSE GOOD WEATIIER.
First swarms are commonly more particular in regard
to weather than after swarms. They have several days
from which to choose, after the royal cells are ready, and
before the queens are matured; and they usually select a
fair onc. But here again are exceptions.
SWARMING. 1%5
EXCEPTIONS.
T have known first swarms to issne in a wind that kept
every branch of tree and bush in such agitation that it was
impossible to find any upon which they could cluster,
After a few fruitless attempts they gave it up, and came
down on “terra firma.” This occurred after several days
of rainy weather. The next day being pleasant, many
swarms issued, almost proving that the wind on the preced-
ing day had kept a part of them back. I have also known
them to issue in a shower that beat many of them to the
ground before they could cluster. In these cases the
shower was sudden, the sun shining almost at the moment
it began to rain. During a long period of wet, cloudy
weather they seem to become impatient, and come out
quite unexpectedly—contrary to all rules.
AFTER-SWARMS.
After-swarms are all that issue after the first, called se-
cond, third, etc., for convenience. They differ in their
conduct from the first swarms, as also do some first swarms
when the old queen has been lost, and they are led out by
a young queen.
THEIR SIZE. °
Second swarms are usually half as large as the first, the
third half as large as the second, etc., with some variations.
I give general features, noticing only the exceptions that
occur most frequently.
WHEN EXPECTED.
Whenever, in a prosperous season, the first swarm is
not kept back by foul weather, the first of the young
queens in the old colony is ready to emerge from the cell
in seven or eight days. .The second swarm may be ex-
pected in about two days thereafter.
176 SWARMING.
PIPING OF TILE QUEEN.
On the mo~ning of that day, or the evening previous, by
putting your 2ar close to the hive, and listening attentive-
ly a few minates, you will hear a distinct piping noise like
the word peep, uttered several times in succession, and
followed by an interval of silence. Two or more may be
heard at the same time; one will be shrill and fine, another
hoarse, short and quick. The first is made by the queen
that has left her cell, the other by one or more that have
matured, but are kept in the cells by the workers, after
they have made an opening for their exit. The difference
in the sound is probably caused by their wings being
cramped by the walls of the cells. They are so little dis-
turbed by the removal of a comb, that the piping is con-
tinued while you are looking at the very comb upon which
they happen to be. This piping is easily heard by any one
not actually deaf, and there is not the least danger of its
being mistaken for any humming ; in fact, it is not to be
mistaken for any thing, even when it is heard for the first
time. These notes can probably never be heard, except
when the hive contains a plurality of queens.
I never failed to hear it, previous to any after-swarm,
whenever I listened. The time that: the piping commences
will be later than specified, in some colonies, if the weather
is cool, or there are not many bees left ;.it may be twelve
or fourteen days after the first swarm.*
Also, the swarm may not issue in two or three days af-
ter you hear the piping. The longer the swarm delays,
the louder will be the piping. I have heard it distinctly
twenty feet, by listening attentively when I knew one was
thus engaged. By putting the ear against the hive, it may
be heard even in the middle of the day, or at any time
~ When first swarms issue before the queens in the old hive have advanced
much, as they sometimes do, the second swarms issue from twelve to sixteen
days afterward.
SWARMING, W777
before tho issuing of the swarm, The length of time dur-
ing which it may be heard, seems also to be governed by
the yield of honey ; when that is abundant, it is common
for them to issue the next day, but when it is somewhat
searce, they will very often delay three or four days. In
such instances, third swarms seldom occur.
Piping for third swarms may usually be heard the even-
ing after the second has left, though one day commonly
intervenes between their issues.
VARIATION IN TIME OF SWARMS ISSUING,
Here my experience is at variance with many writers,
who say there will be an interval of several days between
second and third swarms. I do not remember of any in-
terval of more than three days, but I have known many
to issue in less time, several the next day, and a few on
the same day with the second. I once had an instance
where a swarm lost its queen, on its first sally,.and re-
turned to wait for the young ones; when they were
ready an uncommon number of bees was present, and three
swarms issued in three days! On the fourth another came
out and returned ; the fifth day it left, making four regu-
lar swarms in five days. On the eighth day the fifth
swarm left. Although I had never had a fifth swarm be-
fore, I expected this from the fact that I heard the piping
on the evening subsequent to the fourth swarm. The
piping continued in this hive from the evening previous to
the first swarm, till the last one had left.
Occasionally piping may be heard and no swarm issue.
The bees seem to change their mind about swarming, and
kill their queens, or allow the eldest one to destroy the
others, as is evident from the fact that sometimes swarms
are indicated, and none issue. When the piping-continues
over twenty-four hours, they seldom fail to swarm.
I have known ina few instances piping to commence,
a
178 SWARMING.
while, as I supposed, the old queen was yet present,
and had not left the hive (on account of bad weather) ; but
a swarm issued soon after. Also, I have observed instan-
ces of piping when I supposed the old queen lost, at a time
when no swarm had been lead out; and the colony reared
young ones to supply her place. This occurred in or
near the swarming season, and one or two issues resulted.
One case was three weeks in advance of the season, and
the swarm was about half the usual size. When a swarm has
been out and returned at the last of the swarming season,
it is much more likely to re-issue, than if it depended for
a leader on an old queen, that had not been out. Such
will often issue later in the season than any others. A few
have come out as early after the first swarm, as the fourth
or fifth day, but all these are exceptions to the general rule.
HOW AFTER-SWARMS ISSUE.
When after-swarms start, the appearance about the en-
trance is altogether different from that when first-ones
issue, unless there is an unusual number of bees. I have
said that for a little time beforehand such were in
an apparent tumult, etc. But afier-swarms seldom give
any such notice. One or more of the young queens
may sometimes be seen to run out and back several times
in a few minutes, in a perfect frenzy, and sometimes fly a
short distance and return before the swarm will start.
Even after the swarm is in motion she may return and en-
ter the hive a moment. The workers seem more re-
luctant to leave, than in first swarms, where a mother
instead of a sister is leader. No doubt she finds it neces
sary to exert herself to induce as many as possible to leave
with her. A person watching the issue of a second swarm
under these circumstances, for the first time, and seeing
the queen leave first, would very likely gwess that she did
so in all swarms,
SWARMING. 179
NUMBER OF QUEENS.
After-swarms sometimes have as many as six queens.
The one cantaining several, is usually the last from the
hive. When nearly all mature at once, and the workers
keep them confined,—feeding them of course,—they be-
come strong enough to fly, while in the cells. In the con-
fusion of swarming, the prisoners are forgotten, and they
come out and leave with the rest.
DO NOT ALWAYS CHOOSE GOOD WEATHER.
These after-swarms are not very particular about the
weather; heavy winds, a few clouds, and sometimes a
slight sprinkle will not always deter them. Neither are
they very precise about the time of day. Italians will is-
sue before six A. M. on warm mornings, and after five P.
M., and the black bees are often nearly as much out of
season. These things should be understood, because when
after-swarms are expected, of which the piping will give
warning, it behooves us to watch them in weather, and at
times, when first ones would not venture to leave.
THEY GO FURTHER BEFORE ALIGHTING.
It is essential that some one sees them issue, else it is
often difficult to find the cluster. They are apt to go fur-
ther from the parent hive than others; sometimes fifty
rods, and then often settle in two places, high and incon-
venient, that distance apart. Let me not be misunderstood ;
Ido not say they all. do so, or even the majority, but a
greater proportion of these swarms will do so than of the
first.
If they cluster in two places, a queen may be in each, and
they will remain, and when you have hived one part, you
may think you have them all. If one cluster is without a
queen, they will join the other, if near; but when distant,
they will very likely return to the old hive soon, unless
put with the others. :
180 SWARMING.
PROPRIETY OF RETURNING THEM.
Much has been said about returning all after-swarms tu
the old stock. The advantages will depend on the time of
issuing, the yield of honey, etc. It would be unusual to
have many after-swarms without a liberal yield of honey
for the time being, but the continuation of the supply is
uncertain. If honey continues plentiful, second and even
third swarms, if early, may be hived, and prosper. The
apiarian here needs.judgment and experience.
It is always best, if possible, to have good strong fam-
ilies. When after-swarms are late, it is safest to return
them, as the old colony will need them to replenish the
hive, and prepare for winter. Also, it will be less infested
with worms when well provided with bees, and there are
more chances of obtaining box-honey. But the process of
returning such, requires some patience and perseverance.
I have said that there may be a dozen young queens in the
old stock. Suppose that one or more leaves with the
swarm, and you return the whole, there is nothing to pre-
vent their leading out the swarm again the next day.
Therefore it is policy to retain the queens. It is the least
trouble to hive them in the usual way, and let them stand
till the next morning. This will save you the perplexity
of looking for more than one queen, if there should be
more, for all but one will be destroyed by that time.
There is a chance also for the parent hive to decide that
no more shall issue, and allow all but one to be slain there.
When this is the case, and you find the one with the
swarm, you will have no further trouble. They should be
returned as soon as the next morning, otherwise they
might not agree, even in the old home. To return them,
and find the queen easily, get a sheet or a wide board a few
feet long ; let one end rest on the ground, the other near the
entrance that they may enter the hive without flying ; shake
the swarm out on the lower end, and they will commence
SWARMING, 1s]
running up towards the hive ; the first one that discovers
it will call the others. If they do not perceive it, which
sometimes happens, scatter some of them near it, and they
will soon be marching in the right direction, when you
should look for and secure the queen, if possible. Piping,
a few hours later, will give notice, if they intend to issue
again. It is evident, if these directions are followed, that
they cannot issue many times before their stock of royalty
will be exhausted; and when but one queen remains, the
piping will cease, and trouble be at an end.
To prevent these after-swarms, some writers recom-
mend turning the hive over, and cutting out all the royal
cells but one. This I have found impracticable with most
stocks. Some of the cells are too near the top to be seen,
consequently this cannot always be depended upon.
It is somewhat difficult to give a rule for returning these
swarms. If I should say return all that issue after June
20th, some seasons might be so late, that a second swarm
issuing July 10th might fill the hive and winter well,
while in others the first swarms in June might fail to get
enough. Also, June 20th in the latitude of New York
City, is as late as July 4th farther north.
In sections where Buckwheat is raised to any extent,
late swarms do more towards filling their hives, than where
that is not an important crop.
THE MOTH WORM TROUBLES SMALL COLONIES.
Should it-be thought best to hive after-swarms, and risk
the chances, they should receive a little extra attention,
after the first week or two, in destroying the worms; a
little timely care may prevent considerable injury. They
are apt to construct more comb in proportion to the num-
ber of bees, than others; consequently, such combs cannot
be properly covered and protected. The moth has an op-
182 SWARMING,
portunity to deposit her eggs on them, and will sometimes
entirely destroy them.
UNITING.
Whenever these swarms issue near enough together, it
is best to unite them. I have said that second swarms
were generally half as large as the first. By this rule,
two second swarms or four third, or one second and two
third would contain as mar y as one first swarm ; if the first
and second are of ordinary size, I think it advisable al-
ways to return the third. But in large apiaries, it is com-
mon for them to issue without any previous warning, just
as a first swarm is leaving, and crowd themselves into their
company, seeming to be as much at home, as if they were
equally respectable.
MORE TROUBLE.
When two or more of these after-swarms are united, they
are apt to be much more troublesome than others. The bees
of each swarm are strangers to the queens belonging to the
others. Bees usually make it a rule when coming in con-
tact with a strange queen, while their own is present, to
imprison her, as before described. So many of the bees
observe this practice that every queen is soon surrounded.
Directly some of the bees want their own queen, and can-
not find her; forthwith consternation prevails throughout
the hive. They run to and fro, fly out and return, set up
the call for a moment, then perhaps return to some of the
mother stocks; or if by chance there is a newly hived
swarm in the yard, that behaves decently, they will join
that and get up an excitement there, just because they are
in trouble at home. When there is but one queen, and she
is at liberty, she has not the sedate majesty of her mother,
but seems often to be elated with her position. She wilt
sometimes fly off and return, at others go back to the
SWARMING. 183
mother stock when the swarm will follow, and the experi-
ment come to a very unsatisfactory termination. Perhaps
those that behave so foolishly, have so recently entered
society, that they do not know what course of conduct is
becoming to them. Whenever they behave in this man-
ner, it is well to confine the bees to the hive—giving them
air—and keep them prisoners a day or two, until thorough-
ly sobered. Then if they are without a queen, give them
one, or the means of rearing one.
RULE,
It may be accepted as a rule, that all after-swarms must
be out by the eighteenth day after the first. I never found
an exception, unless it may be considered as such when a
swarm leaves, seven or eight weeks after the first. But
these I consider rather in the light of first swarms, as they
issue under similar circumstances, leaving the combs in the
old hive filled with brood, queen cells finished, ete. A
hive may cast swarms in June, and a buckwheat-swarm in
August, on the same principle.
Therefore, bee-keepers having but few hives, will find it
useless to watch their bees, when the last of the first
swarms came out sixteen or eighteen days before. Much
trouble may be thus saved by a little knowledge of facts.
During my early days in bee:keeping, I was anxious for
the greatest possible increase of stocks, I had some that
had cast a first swarm, and soon after, clustered out again.
I watched them vainly for weeks and months, expecting
another swarm. But, had I understood the “ modus oper-
andi” as the reader may now understand it, my anxiety as
well as watching, would have been at an end in a fortnight.
As it was, it lasted two months. I found no one to give
me any light on the subject, or even tell me when the
swarming season was over, and I came very near watching
all summer !
184 SWARMING.
ONE QUEEN DESTROYS OTHERS.
When it is decided in family council, that no more
swarms are to issue, all but one of the queens are destroy-
ed. Itis probable that the oldest and strongest dispatches
the others, while in the cells, or allows them to issue, and
take a fair fight.
When rearing Italian queens in the small boxes, it is usu-
al to have half a dozen queen-cells on a very small piece
of comb. To save these from destruction, all but one must
be cut out before any hatch. If the brood given them is
just the right age—about four days old—a queen will
hatch in ten days, and if the others are not removed, the
first one that hatches, makes it her business to destroy the
rest. I have often caught them when just out of their own
cell, at work at the others. The younger sisters in help-
less confinement are slaughtered without mercy. An
opening is bitten into the royal cell, and the fatal sting in-
flicted in the abdomen of the defenceless queen.
If quick and spiteful movements are any indication of
hatred, it is here very plainly manifested. The bees en-
large the opening and drag out the dead queens.
It is probable that all swarming hives manage in this
way when it is decided to send out no more swarms, as we
find numbers of dead queens about the entrance just at
this time; and this may generally be taken as evidence
that swarming is over in such hive for the season. Should
the stock send out but one swarm, the dead queens may
be found about the time, or a little before, you would
listen for the piping.
Whenever hives containing swarms are full, or nearly so,
boxes should be put on without delay, unless the honey
season is so nearly over that it is unnecessary.
ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 185
CHAPTER XI.
ARTIFICIAL SWARMS.
Artificial swarms are those which are made by driving
‘or dividing. The utility of such swarms will depend
greatly on the circumstances of the bee-keeper; the time
that he has to attend to regular swarms, and his general
knowledge of the subject. There are advantages as well
as disadvantages. There is not much difference between
the labor of making artificial swarms, and of hiving regu-
lar issues. If I were sure of but one issue from a hive,
and could always attend to the hiving without particular
inconvenience, I would prefer natural swarms. But when
we depend on these, and perhaps feel particularly anxious
for them to issue, some will pertinaciously adhere to the
old stock through the whole swarming season. When we
have but few hives, and are particularly anxious to increase
the number, this indifference to our wishes is very annoy-
ing. The other extreme—over swarming-—is often still
more vexatious.
PERPLEXITIES.
There are likewise some perplexities with artificial
swarms. We do not always take out the requisite num-
ber, or we get too great a proportion of old or young bees,
and when they are thus improperly divided, they do not
always work well at first. One writer says, ‘“ artificial
swarms, so called, I do not approve of at all, they do not
work like the others.” I cannot imagine why he should
have failed, unless there was a lack of the requisite number
of workers in all the departments, such as nurses, wax-
workers and gatherers. Whether there is an organic dis-
tinction in the bees that fill these stations, or only tempor-.
ary details for the purpose, I shall not express an opinion.
186 ARTIFICIAL SWARMS.
I know that very young bees act as nurses, but I presume,
that as they grow older, they will, if they have an ordinary
share of energy, go abroad and collect honey and pollen.
WORK WELL.
Artificial swarms do work just as well as natural ones,
asa general rule. In fact I never had one, that I thought
was less industrious, because of the manner in which it
was made.
If you wish to be swre of an annual increase, it will be
necessary to take the matter in part in your own hand, and
make each hive spare a swarm that is in condition to do so
When this is decided upon prompt action is necessary.
DO IT IN SEASON.
It will not do to “wait and see if they don’t swarm,”
and then do it, and then if they do not fill the hive and
store as much surplus as a natural swarm hived four
weeks sooner, attribute it to the manner of making the
colony. Do it in season, or not at all. Also, it is import-
ant that a swarm is not taken at any time, unless the
colony is abundantly able to spare it. The ability to de-
cide this point requires much observation and experience.
It should always be done when there is plenty of honey,
unless you expect to feed, and it is usually safer to perform
the operation during the swarming season. Without these
conditions it is much better to postpone artificial increase
till another year.
MY FIRST EXPERIENCE.
My first experience in making artificial swarms, and in
raising queens was not very encouraging. But by comply-
ing a little more with the natural requirements of the bee,
I have since succeeded satisfactorily. It is stated by
nearly every writer, that whenever a colony of bees pos-
sessing eggs or young larve is deprived of its queen, they
ARTIFICIAL SWARMS, Ls7
will not fail to rear another. This may be taken as a rule,
but there are exceptions. The first experiments that I
made in this line, came very near proving to me that the
exceptions formed the rule. Very soon after I began to
keep bees, when I had but few stocks, and was anxious to
increase the number, I was perplexed with the failure of
some hives to swarm, notwithstanding they were well sup-
plied with bees, and exhibited the usual indication, such as
clustering out, etc. Others, apparently not so well sup-
plied with bees, threw off swarms. Taking the assertions
of these authors for facts, I reasoned thus: In all prob-
ability there is plenty of eggs and brood in each of those
stocks. Why not drive out a portion of the bees with the
old queen, and leave about as many as if a swarm had is-
sued ? Those left will then raise a queen, and continue the
old stock, and I shall double the number. On examination,
I found eggs and larve, and accordingly divided them.
Of course, all must be right. Now, thought I, my stocks
can be doubled, at least annually. If they do not swarm,
I can drive them. .
My swarms prospered, the old stock seemed industrious,
bringing in pollen in abundance, which, at that time, was
conclusive evidence that they had a queen, or soon would
have. I continued to watch them with much interest, but
somehow, after a few weeks, there did not seem to be as
many bees in the old hives; a few days later, I was quite
positive of it. I examined the combs and behold! There
was not a cell containing a young bee of any age, nor even
an egg in any of these old stocks. My visions of future
increase by this means, speedily disappeared about this
time.
My new swarms, it is true, were in condition for winter,
although not full; put the old ones were not, and ethius
was gained. I had some honey and a great deal of bee-
bread and old black comb. Had I let them alone and put
188 ARTIFICIAL S\WARMS.
on boxes, I should probably have obtained twenty-five or
thirty pounds of pure honey from each; besides, the old
stocks, even with old comb, would have been better sup-
plied with both honey and bees, and altogether much bet-
ter stocks for wintering. Here was an important loss,
arising simply from ignorance.
I looked the bees over carefully, and ascertained toa
certainty that none of them had a queen. The few bees
left, I smothered in the fall. I then knew of no better
way. I had been told that the barbarous use of “fire and
brimstone” was part of the “luck’’—that a more benevo-
lent system would cause them “to run out,” ete. I can-
not, to this day, account for my want of success. Since
then, I have succeeded nineteen times in twenty, under
circumstances, apparently precisely similar.
The swarming season is certainly the best time, as then
most of the stocks are constructing these cells, preparatory
to swarming, and there can hardly be a failure with the
method recommended. But I shall advise furnishing the
old stock with a queen before they can raise one, either
by giving them a cell ready to hatch, or a laying queen.
It is very plain that a queen from a finished cell must be
ready to deposit eggs several days sooner, than one which
is raised in the hive, after the necessity for one exists.
It is also clear, if we have a dozen queens depositing
eggs by June 10th, that our bees are increasing faster on
the whole, than if but half that number are engaged in it
for a month later. There is yet another advantage. The
sooner a young queen can take the place of the old one in
maternal duties the less time will be lost in breeding, the
more bees there will be to defend the combs from the
moth, and the sooner the guarantee for surplus honey.
HOW TO MAKE ARTIFICIAL SWARMS,
When you are all ready, take a stock that can spare a
swarm; if bees are on the outside, raise the hive on
ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 189
wedges, sprinkle them with a little water to drive them in,
and disturb them gently with a stick. Now smoke and
invert it, setting an empty hive over. If the two hives
are of one size, and have been made by a workman, there
will be no chance for the bees to escape, except through
the holes in the side, these you will stop. With a light
hammer or stick strike the hive a few times lightly, and let
it remain five minutes. This is very essential, as it allows
the bees to fill themselves with honey. All regular swarms
go forth so laden. A supply is necessary when bad
weather soon follows. The amount of honey carried out
of a stock by a good swarm, together with the weight of
the bees, (which is not much,) varies from five to eight
pounds.
When the bees have filled their sacks, proceed to drive
them into the upper hive, by striking the lower one rapid-
ly from five to ten minutes. A loud humming will mark
thei first movement. When you think half or two-thirds
are out, raise the hive and make an examination. They
are not at all disposed to sting in this stage of the proceed-
ing, even when they escape outside. If full of honey,
they are seldom provoked to resentment. The only care
necessary, is not to crush too many between the edges of
the hives. The loud buzzing is no sign of anger. If your
swarm is not large enough, continue to drive until it is.
When done, the new hive should be set on the stand of
the old one. A few minutes will decide whether you have
the queen with the swarm, as they will remain quiet if she
is presert; but if she is not, they will be uneasy and run
about, when it will be necessary to drive again.
MANNER OF PLACING THE STANDS.
If both hives are one color, set the old one two feet in
front, but if of different colors. a little farther. This is
for the box hives.
190 ARTIFICIAL SWARMS.
If there is plenty of room, the two hives can be set each
side of the old stand, about one foot from it. As this
should be performed in the middle of the day, you should
set an empty hive, resembling the old one, on the stand,
to catch the bees returning from work during the opera-
tion. After the hives are in their proper places, -the bees
in this temporary hive should be shaken out before them.
The hive that receives the most of the returning bees
should be set a little farther from the old stand, and the
other a little nearer, until they enter in equal numbers, or
this method may be adopted. "When the hive to be divid-
ed was set so far from all others in the spring, that return.
ing bees will not enter neighboring hives, you may leave
the old hive on its own stand, and place a new one for the
swarm, three feet from it, on one side. When the bees
are divided, put the old hive in the cellar for a few days,
until all the bees belonging to the new hive have become
habituated to it, when the old hive may be returned to its
own stand, and all the bees that are in it, will of course
adhere.
INTRODUCING QUEEN-CELL.
Before you turn over the old stock, look as far as possi-
ble among the combs, for queen-cells; if any contain
larve, you may leave them to rear a queen; but if other-
wise, wait twenty-four hours, and then go to a stock that
has cast a swarm, or to one of the little queen-boxes and
obtain a finished royal cell, and introduce it. When there
are young queens in the cells at the time of driving, after-
swarms may issue. Should a queen-cell be introduced im-
mediately, it is more liable to be destroyed than after an
interval of twenty-four hours, and even then, it is not
always safe. After it has had time to hatch, which is not
far from eight days after being sealed, cut it out, and ex-
amine it: if the lower end is open, it indicates that a per-
ARTIFICIAL SWARMS. 191
fect queen has left it, and all is right; but if it is mutilated
or open at the side, it is probable that the queen was de-
stroyed before maturity, in which case it will be necessary
to give them another cell.
OPERATION WITH MOVEABLE COMBS—EASY.
It is much more pleasant to operate with the movable
combs than with the common hive. To divide, you have
only to get an empty hive of the same size as the one you
wish to divide. Place your stands one on each side of the
old one, with the hives upon them. Begin two or three frames
from the one you design taking out first, by moving them
away from it a little, then take hold of each end and raise
it carefully, without striking the ends or other frames.
When the ends of the frame rest on the rabbeting of the
hive, the bees seal them fast with propolis. A small chisel
or bit of iron will be necessary with which to pry them
loose. Loosen all, before lifting out any. The bees resent
a slight jar during this operation more than the removal
of the frames, and will need a little more smoke to quiet
them. Take out just half the combs with the bees at-
tached, and put them into the empty hive. Ifyou have no
empty combs, fill out each hive with empty frames. See
that the bees enter them equally. This may be regulated
in the same manner as with the box-hive.
ONE DIVISION WILL MAKE DRONE COMB.
The division, containing the queen, will, if they are ob-
taining honey, commence worker-combs; the other, will
commence drone combs, and at the same time will be likely
to make queen-cells on the old combs. The absence of a
queen may be ascertained by these indications. Should
the one with the queen contain queen-cells, started before
the division, there might not be any combs made, and a
swarm would be quite sure to issue as soon as any cells
192 ARTIFICIAL SWARMS.
were finished. I once had three swarms from each half of |
a divided hive.
TOO MANY DRONE COMBS FOR PROFIT.
It would be well to ascertain as soon as the next day
which half has the queen, and take off any cells begun in
her apartment. In the other hive, before they have
hatched a queen, they will make altogether too many drone
combs for profit, in a stock-hive.
The honey now stored in these combs is in bad shape,
and unless wanted for home consumption, some measures
should be taken to have it in suitable shape for market.
To cut them out, and transfer to the surplus boxes is at-
tended with much trouble and some waste. I prefer to
have it made directly in the boxes by the bees. But as
they will not now go to the top of the hive to fill boxes,
I put them inside in this way.
MONEY MADE IN BOXES IN THE HIVE.
Put a cross-piece some two inches wide in the centre of
the frame and an-
other at the bot-
tom, thus.—Set on
these, boxes of the
usual size, with the
glass removed on
the side, next the
comb and _, bees.
The guide-combs
should be put in
parallel with the Fig. 24—rraME T0 HOLD BOXES INSIDE THE
HIVE.
other combs, else
they might be worked fast to them. If yourhive is of
the right size, you will have no difficulty, but if too shal-
low, as most movable comb hives are, it may be necessary
to make surplus boxes for the purpose.
ARTIFICIAL, SWARMS. 193
My hives happened to be of the right size—when made
without reference to this process. They should be twelve
inches wide, admitting frames 11x18; box about six inches
by five deep. The boxes should be wedged firmly in the
frame. These, with the frame, will, when properly ad-
justed, fill one-half the hive, and the four frames with
combs, the other half. The open side of the box allows
the bees to work with the same facility as in making addi-
tional combs in the hive. There is no danger of finding
brood in them; and the labor expended is in a profitable
direction.
BOXES TRANSFERRED AND FINISHED ON ANOTHER HIVE.
When the young queen is mature, and commences lay-
ing, they should be removed. If not full, and the colony
is strong, put them on the top, and the bees will remain and
finish them. But if the colony is weak, they will leave to
work below, when they should be transferred to some
other hive to be finished.
TIME FOR QUEEN TO LAY EGGS.
The young queen will make her appearance on the
twelfth day from the time the division is made; in eight
days more she will commence laying. This is the rule,
but exceptions are frequent. If you wish to use the sur-
plus queen-cells that will probably be made, for other divi-
sions, or any purpose, they should be taken out by the
tenth day. The queen first hatched sometimes destroys
them all by that time. When all goes well, the queen
should be laying in three weeks. Eggs.in the cells at that
time indicate her presence. When a queen-cell can be
given to the half, destitute of a queen, the young queen is
ready to lay several days earlier. When a laying queen
ean be introduced, there is an average gain of from ten to
fourteen days.
9
194 ARTIFICIAL SWARMS.
I will give another method of dividing with movable
combs, which some may prefer to adopt.
Remove one frame containing brood comb, with the
bees that happen to be on it, together with the queen, to
an empty hive and place it on the old stand, setting the
old stock four feet to one side. Fill ont the new hive with
empty frames. Most of the bees will come to this stand,
but enough will usually remain in the old hive, in addition
to the brood that hatches out, to keep it in a prosperous
condition. The frames should be moved together, and the
vacancy made by the removal, filled by an empty frame at
the outside. The hive being full of combs, they will not
construct new. They may be furnished with a queen-cell
as before directed. The objection to this method is their
occasional disposition to swarm out.
When the trouble is no great obstacle, and it is desired
to increase the stocks to the utmost, without regard to
surplus honey, perhaps more good swarms may be made,
by having the breeding hive rather large, and keeping the
old queen at home, continually supplying the combs with
eggs. If she is usually prolific, a swarm of more than
20,000 bees may be taken out every three or four weeks.
Take out the combs, shake off and get into an empty
hive all the bees proper to spare, and return the old queen.
Give them a mature queen in a wire-cloth cage, as describ-
ed in Chap. xxiv. Confine the bees a few hours, and
remove at least a mile. The queen may be liberated
after three or four days. Her presence will generally pre-
vent much drone-comb from being built. If any comb of
the old hive becomes filled with honey, it should at once
be removed and replaced with an empty one, as it will oc-
cupy room that should be used for brood. The advantage
of this plan is, that all the combs of the parent hive, are
maturing bees throughout the season, and there is no loss
of time, as for some weeks in swarming hives.
LOSS OF QUEENS. 195
CHAPTER XII.
LOSS OF QUEENS.
If all my readers were keeping bees in the movable-
comb hive, I should have but little to say in this Chapter,
but as the box-hive will yet be used, it will be necessary
to give directions accordingly.
WHEN LOST BY SWARMS.
Swarms that lose their queens in the first few hours af-
ter being hived, generally return to the parent stock;
sometimes unite with some other. If much time has elapsed
before the loss, they remain, unless standing on a bench
with another. On a separate stand, they continue their
labor, but a large swarm diminishes rapidly, and seldom
fills an ordinary hive.
DRONE COMB.
A singular phenomenon attends a swarm that is con-
structing combs, without a queen. I have never seen it
noticed by any one, and it may not always be the case, but
I have so found it in every instance that has come under
my notice. That is, four-fifths of the comb is composed
of drone-cells; why they thus construct them is a subject
for speculation, from which I will endeavor in this instance
to refrain.*
- SPECULATION.
It has been suggested as a profitable speculation “ to
hive a large swarm without a queen, and give them a piece
of brood-comb containing eggs, to rear one, and as soon
* The above was wrilten 12 years ago. About the same time, Mr. Langstroth
noticed the same fact, in his work, and it is now pretty generally known, but nol
yet explained.
196 LOSS OF QUEENS.
as it is matured, deprive them of it, giving them another
piece of comb, and continue it throughout the summer,
putting on boxes for surplus honey. There being no brood
to consume any honey, no time will be lost, or taken to
nurse them, and as a consequence, they will be enabled to
store large quantities of surplus honey.”
This appears very plausible, and to an inexperienced per-
son somewhat. conclusive. If success depended on some
animal whose lease of life was a little longer, it would an-
swer better to calculate in this way. But as a bee (the
queen excepted) seldom sees the anniversary of its birth-
day, and most of them perish in a few weeks or months,
it is bad economy. It will be found that the largest
amounts of surplus honey are obtained from the prolific
stocks. Therefore, it is all important that every swarm
and stock has a queen to repair this constant loss of bees.
DISPUTED QUESTION.
We now approach a disputed point in natural history,
relative to the queen leaving at any time, except when
leading out aswarm. Most writers say that the young
queen leaves the hive, and meets the drone on the wing.
Others positively deny this, having watched a whole sum-
mer without seeing her leave. Consequently, they have
arrived at the very plausible, and apparently consistent
conclusion, that nature never intended it to be so, since it
must happen at a time when the existence of the whole
family depends entirely on the life of the queen. The
stock at such times contains no eggs or larve, from which
to rear another, if she should be lost. ‘ The chances at
such times of being devoured by birds, blown away by the
winds, and other casualties, are too many, and it is not
probable the Creator would have so arranged it.” But
facts are stubborn things; they will not yield one jot.to
favor the most “finely spun theory ;” they are most pro-
LOSS OF QUEENS. 197
vokingly obstinate, many times, When one takes asurvey
of animated nature, and finds that male and female are
usually about equal in number, he is ready, and often does
conclude that a single bee among thousands can not be the
only one capable of reproduction or depositing eggs. The
idea, to him, is preposterous! And yet, only a little obser-
vation will upset this apparently consistent reasoning. So
it seemed to be very inconsistent that the young queens
should leave the hive, but I was compelled, though reluc-
tantly, to admit it. That this purpose is, to meet the
drones, cannot at present be contradicted. Also, that
when the queen is once impregnated, it is operative for life.
She is never detected coming out again for that purpose.
A MULTITUDE OF DRONES NEEDED.
What then is the use of the ten thousand drones that
never fulfill this important duty? It seems indeed like a
useless expenditure of labor and honey for each stock to
rear thousands, when perhaps, but one, sometimes not any,
of the whole number is of any use. If the risk is great in
the queen’s leaving, we find it admirably arranged that it
shall not be too frequent.
Instinct teaches the bees to make the matters left-to
them, as swre as possible. When they want one queen,
they raise half a dozen. If one drone, or only half a
dozen were reared, the chances of the queen meeting one
in the air, would be very much reduced. But when a
thousand are in the air, the chances are a thousand times
multiplied. Ifa stock casts a swarm, a young. queen must
be impregnated and return safely, or the stock, is lost.
Every time she leaves, there is one chance in about twelve
of her not returning. If the number of drones were any
less than it is, she would have to repeat her excur sions, till
successful. As it is, some have to leave several times.
The chances and consequences of loss are so great, that
198 LOSS OF QUEENS.
on the whole, it is no doubt better to rear a thousand un-
necessarily, than to Jack one in time of need. Therefore,
let us be content with the present arrangement, inasmuch
as we could not better ‘it, and probably, should we try,
would “so fix the thing that it would not go at all.”
But what is the use of drones in hives that do not
swarm, and do not intend to do so, as in very large ones,
or those situated in a large room? In such circumstances
they seldom produce swarms, yet as regularly as the return
of the summer, a brood of drones appears. What are they
for? Suppose the old queen in such hive dies, leaving eggs
or young larve, and a young queen is reared to supply her
place. How isshe to be impregnated without the drones?
Perhaps they are taught that whenever they can afford it
they should have some on hand to be ready for an emer-
gency. I have already said that when bees are numerous,
and honey abundant, they never fail to provide them. A
crippled queen hived with a swarm, or even in an old stock,
is generally replaced by one that is perfect, within a month
or two,
WHEN THE LOSS OCCURS.
Whenever I have witnessed this excursion of the queen,
it has taken place a little after the middle of the day, when
the drones were out in the greatest numbers. At such
times, there is rather more than usual commotion among
the workers. I have watched their return—their absence
varying from three minutes to half an hour—and have seen
them hover around their own hive, apparently in doubt
whether they belonged in that, or the next; in a few in-
stances they have actually settled on the neighboring hive,
and would have perished there, but for my assistance. Thus
we see that queens are lost on these occasions, from some
cause; and part, perhaps most of them, by entering the
wrong hive; if so, it is another good reason for not setting
LOSS OF QUEENS. 199
hives too closely together. The hives are very often nearly
alike in color and appearance, and the queen coming out
for the first time in her life, is doubtless confused by this
similarity.
The average number of such losses in a season, varies:
One year, the average was one in nine, another, one in thir-
teen, and another, one in twenty. The time after the issuing
of the first swarm varies from ten to twenty days. The
inexperienced reader should not forget that these accidents
happen in the old stocks which have cast swarms, the old
queen having left with the first. Also, all after-swarms
are liable to the same loss.
I would suggest that these have abundant room given
between the hives; if it be necessary to pack any closely,
let it be the first swarms, where, the queen, being old, has
no occasion to leave. Having never seen this matter fully
discussed, I wish to be somewhat particular, and think I
shall be able to direct the careful apiarian how to save a
few stocks and swarms annually. Several years ago I
wrote an article on this subject, for an agricultural paper.
A subscriber told me a year afterwards, that he saved two
stocks the next summer by the information; they were
worth, at least five dollars each, enough to pay for his pa-
per for years to come.
TIME OF LEAVING VARIES,
When a stock casts but one swarm, the queen, having
destroyed all competitors who would interfere with her
movements, will leave in about fourteen days, if the
weather is fair; but should an after-swarm leave, the oldest
of the young queens will probably go with that. Of
course, then, it must be later before the queen remaining
in the old hive is ready; it may be twenty days, or even
more. The queens with after-swarms will leave from one
to six days after being hived. It always will occur when
200 LOSS OF QUEENS.
no eggs or larve exist, and no means left to repair the
loss. A loss it is, and a serious one; the bees are in as
much trouble as their owner, and quite likely, more, as
they seem to understand the consequences, and he is per-
haps ignorant; should he now for the first time learn the
nature of it, he will at the same time understand the remedy.
INDICATIONS OF LOSS.
The next morning after a loss of this kind has occurred,
and occasionally at evening, the bees may be seen running
to and fro in the greatest consternation on the outside.
Some will fly off a short distance, and return; one will run
to another, and then to another, still in hopes, no doubt,
of finding their lost queen. A hive, close by on the same
bench will probably receive a portion, and will seldom re-
sist an accession under such circumstances. All this will
be going on while other hives are quiet. Towards the
middle of the day, the confusion will be less marked; but
the next morning it will be exhibited again, though not so
plainly, and will cease after the third, when they be-
come apparently reconciled to their fate. They will con-
tinue their labors as usual, bringing in pollen and honey.
Here I am obliged to differ with writers, who tell us that
all labor will now cease. I hope the reader will not be de-
ceived by supposing that the collection of pollen is an in-
fallible indication of the presence of a queen. I can as-
sure him it is not always the case.
RESULT.
The number of bees will gradually decrease, and they
will be gone by the early part of winter, leaving a good
supply of honey, and an extra quantity a bee-bread, as
before mentioned, because there has been no brood to con-
sume it. This is the case where a large family is left at
the time of the loss. When but few bees are left, it is
LOSS OF QUEENS. 201
very different; the combs. are unprotected. by a covering
of bees, the moth deposits her eggs on them, and the
worms soon finish up the whole. The bees from the other
stocks will generally first remove the honey. Hundreds
of bee-keepers lose some of their stocks im this way, and
can assign no reasonable cause. ‘“‘ Why,” say they, “ there
wasn’t twenty bees in the hive; it was all full of honey,”
or worms, as the case may be. ‘Only a short time before,
it was full of bees; I got three good swarms from it, and
it always has been first-rate, but all at once the bees were
gone. I don’t understand it!”
AGE OF BEES.
Such bee-keepers do not understand how rapidly a fam-
ily of bees diminishes, when there is no queen to counter-
balance with young, this regular decrease. I doubt
whether the largest and best family could possibly be made
to exist more than six months, without a queen for their
renewal, except perhaps during the winter.’
DUTY.
As this tumult can be seen but a few days at most, it is
well, yes, necessary to make it a duty to glance at the hive.
every morning, at this period after swarming; a glance
is sufficient to discover the fact. Remember to reckon.
from the date of the first issue ; this occurs when the first
royal cells are sealed over, and is the best criterion by
which to judge when the queen will leave.
_ REMEDY.
When a loss is discovered, first ascertain if there is any
after-swarm to be expected from another stock, by listen-
ing for the piping; if so, wait till it issues, and obtain a
queen from that, for your stock. Even if there is but one,
take it, and let the bees return; they will probably come
g*
202 LOSS OF QUEENS.
out again the next day, if they do not, it is very often no
great loss. Should no such swarm be indicated, go toa
stock that has cast a first swarm within a week, smoke it,
and turn it over, as before directed, find a royal cell, and
cut it out, being careful not to injure it. This must
now be secured in the other hive, in such a position that
the lower end will be free from any obstacle, which will
interfere with the egress of the queen. It will make
but little difference whether at the top or bottom, if it
be secure from falling, and can be kept warm by the bees,
I generally introduce it through a hole in the top, taking
care to find one that will allow the cell to pass down be-
tween two combs. Being largest at the upper end, the
combs each side will sustain it, and leave the lower end
free. In a few hours the bees will secure it permanently
to the combs with wax. This operation cannot be per-
formed in a chamber hive, as it is impossible to see the ar-
rangement of the combs through the holes. To put it in
at the bottom is more trouble. The difficulty is, to fasten
it, and prevent its resting on the end. It may be done as
follows. Take a piece of old tough comb an inch square.
Make a hole through the centre large enough to receive
the cell, turn up the hive, and spread two combs far enough
apart to receive the piece between them, which arrange-
ment will secure it from falling.
The bees will become quiet, soon after such cell is intro-
duced. It will hatch in a few days, and they will have a
queen as perfect as if it had been one of their own rearing.
This queen, of course, will be under the necessity of leav-
ing the hive, and will be just as liable to be lost as others,
but no more so, and must be watched as carefully.
It is unnecessary to look for a cell in a stock that has cast its
first swarm more than a week before, as they are generally
destroyed in that time, sometimes, in less, unless they in-
tend to send out an after-swarm. When artificial, or lay-
LOSS OF QUEENS. 203
ing-queens are kept on hand, no one need be told to intro-
duce such a one at once.
MARK DATE OF SWARM.
Should the apiary contain so many stocks that it is diffi-
cult to remember the date of each swarm, it is a good plan
to mark it on one side or corner of the hive, as the swarms
issue. It will thus be easy to tell where to look for a cell.
OTHER REMEDIES.
Tt will sometimes happen that a queen is lost at the ex-
treme end of the swarming season, when no stock contains
such cells, and no queen is at hand. In such a case, it is
often economy to take a queen from the most inferior stock
on hand, and sacrifice it to save the queenless one. If no
poor colony is at hand, drive the bees out of one of the
best, secure the queen, and return the bees. They will
raise another, and the damage will be less than to lose the
queenless stock. The strong one will recover, but the
other needs a queen, at once, and cannot afford to take
time to raise one. Therefore I would recommend intro-
ducing a mature queen whenever it is practicable. When
all the brood in the combs is hatched, and the bees are
obliged to commence with an-egg to raise a queen, there
can be no young bees added to the colony short of six
weeks, by which time, most such would be beyond recov-
ery. Sometimes after all our efforts, a few stocks will re-
main destitute of queens. These, if they escape the worms,
will generally store honey enough, in this section, to winter
a good colony. This must be introduced of course, from
another hive containing a queen, but this belongs to Fall
Management.
INDICATIONS OF LOSS IN EARLY SPRING.
Occasionally, a queen is lost, at other than the swarming
season, averaging about one in forty cases, It is most fre-
204 LOSS OF QUEENS.
quent in spring, at least, it is generally discovered then.
The queen may die in winter, and the bees give no indica-
tions of it until they come out in spring. Occasionally,
they may all desert the hive, and join another. If we ex.
pect to ascertain when a queen is lost at this season, we
must notice them just before dark on the first warm days,
because the mornings are apt to be too cool for any bees
to be outside; any unusual stir or commotion, similar to
what has been described, indicates the loss. This is the
most difficult time of the year to provide the remedy, un-
less there should happen to be some very poor stock con-
taining a queen, that we might lose any way, which it
would be judicious to sacrifice to save the other, especially
if the latter contains all the requisites of a good stock, ex-
cept a queen. As soon as drones appear, it would do to
take a queen from a strong stock, as just mentioned. In
such a case, the movable comb hive is an advantage.
Combs from some full hive containing considerable brood,
occasionally introduced into a queenless one, will be a great
help to the colony, and keep it in a thriving condition, un-
til a queen can be procured. They will probably raise
one immediately on receiving the brood, but if it be too
long before there are drones, she will prove a drone queen,
and must be destroyed, and another substituted. If empty
combs can be supplied to the hive from which such brood
combs are taken, scarcely any difference will be observed
in their prosperity.
‘Thus far in my experience with the Italians, I have ob-
served that they seldom lose their queens.
PRUNING. 6 205
CHAPTER XIII.
PRUNING.
This chapter, like some others, would be useless, were it
not that the box hive is yet much in use.
SELDOM NECESSARY.
The apiarian whose main object is profit, will find that
pruning is desirable much less often than the patent ven-
der recommends, and in sections where foul brood exists,
it is very seldom necessary. Yet many will like to know
how it should be done.
THE TIME,
The time at which it should be performed, is of some
importance. The month of March has been recommended
by many, others prefer April, August or September.
Here, as usual, I shall differ from them all, preferring
still another period, for which I offer my reasons, suppos-
ing of course, that the reader is conscious of a freeman’s
privilege of choosing whatever time or method he thinks
proper, in this, as in other matters There is but one pe-
riod from February till October, when prosperous stocks
are free from young brood in the combs. If combs are
taken out when thus occupied, there must be a loss of all
the young bees they contain. The old queen leaves with
the first swarm; all the eggs she leaves in the worker-cells
will be matured in about. twenty-one days; hence this. is
evidently the best time to prune the old combs with the
least waste. A few unhatched drones will be found in the
cells, but they are of no account. Also, a few very young
larve and some eggs may sometimes be found, the product
of the young queens; these must be wasted, but as the
bees have expended no labor upon them, it is better to sa-
206 & PRUNING.
crifice them than the greater number left by her mother,
which have consumed their portion of food, and have been
sealed up by the bees. Should this operation be postponed
more than three weeks, the young queen will so fill the
combs again, as to involve a serious loss. Therefore, I
wish to urge the necessity of attention to this point at the
proper season. If you think it unimportant to mark the
date of your first swarms, for the purposes mentioned else-
where, it will be found very convenient here, for those
that need pruning.
It is recommended by some, to take out only a part, say
one-third or half of the combs in a season, thereby taking
two or three years to renew them. This is advisable only
when the family is very small. As this space made by
pruning cannot be filled without wax and labor, our sur-
plus honey will be proportionate to its extent. Suppose
we take out half the old combs, and get half a yield of
surplus honey this year, and do the same next, or
complete the operation, and have none this year, and a full
yield next. What is the difference? There is none
in regard to honey, but some in trouble, and it is in
favor of performing the whole operation at once. Besides
the advantage of saving a large brood by pruning at this
season, such hives will usually refill before fall, and are
much better for wintering, than if done later in the season.
In the latter case, much brood will be wasted, and a large
space will be unoccupied with combs during the winter.
But few combs can then be made, and those few must be at
the expense of their winter stores, unless we resort to
feeding. These objections apply with still greater force to
pruning in March or April. The loss of brood is of much
more consequence then, than in mid-summer, or even later;
and a space to be filled with combs is a serious disadvan-
tage. It is important that the bees should devote their
whole attention to rearing brood, and be ready to cast
PRUNING, 207
their swarms as early as possible. One early swarm is
worth two late ones.
DIFFICULTY IN DRIVING IN COOL WEATHER.
Further, it will be found much more difficult to drive
the bees out of a hive in the cool weather of March or
April, than in summer, as they seem unwilling to leave
their warm quarters and go into a cold hive. The first
thing necessary, is to get rid of the bees, and the operation
of pruning is performed much quicker when they are driven
out in the outset. If there are not bees enough in the
hive to interfere, it will not pay to prune the combs.
BEST TIME.
The best time to begin is just long enough before to com-
plete it by dark. First, blow some smoke under the hive,
turn it over, and set on it an empty hive the same size.
Stop all crevices, and rap on the lower hive a few times,
with a light hammer or stick. The bees becoming alarmed,
will set up a loud buzzing, and most of them will com-
mence filling themselves with honey. Proceed with the
drumming, and when they have taken all the honey they
can carry, they will readily ascend into the upper hive.
The loud buzzing is not so much a sign of anger as of fear.
In five or ten minutes, one edge of the upper hive may be
raised to inspect progress. When most are up, set the
upper one on the old stand, get another empty one, and
drive out more, shake these down in front of the others,
and they will immediately enter. If there are only a few
left scattered here and there on the combs, they may be
disregarded. By this time, none of them are disposed to
sting, unless they have Italian blood in them.
Should it be desired to drive the bees out permanently,
for reason of diseased brood, or other causes, you have
only to continue the process until all are out. They will
208 PRUNING.
go to work as anew swarm. The reason that complaints
are made of such swarms not doing well generally, seems
to be in allowing the colony to decrease too much -before
driving, thus leaving too few bees to accomplish anything,
The tools for pruning are very simple. The broad one
is readily made by any blacksmith, from a piece of an old
scythe, about eighteen inches long, by simply taking off
the back, and forming a shank for the handle at the heel.
The end should be ground all on one side, and square
across like a carpenter’s chisel. This is for cutting the
=
l Bae
Fig. 25.—TOOLS FOR PRUNING.
combs at the sides of the hive; the bevel will keep it close
the whole length, when you wish to remove the whole of
acomb. Being square instead of pointed or rounded, no
difficulty will be found in guiding it, and being very thin,
no combs will be broken or crushed. The other tool is for
cutting off combs across the top, middle, or any place
where it is desired to cut horizontally. It is merely a rod
of steel three-eighths of an inch in diameter, about two feet
long, with a thin blade at a right angle, one and a half inches
long, one-fourth inch wide, both edges sharp, upper side
bevelled, bottom flat, etc. These are convenient for many
purposes besides pruning, and the cost cannot be com-
pared to the advantages. Now, with these tools, proceed
to remove the brood combs from the centre of the hive to
be pruned. The combs near the top and outside are used
but little for breeding, and are generally filled with honey ;
these should be left as a good start towards refilling.
Reverse the hives, putting the one containing the bees
under the other; by the next morning all are in their own
PRUNING. 209
hive. Put it on the stand, and the work is done without
any extra expense for a patent, and the bees are much bet-
ter off for the honey left, which must be taken away, with
all patent plans that I have seen, except the movable
combs. This is worth much more to the bees than to the
owner, as it often contains cocoons and bee-bread, and
they will repay with pure comb and honey.
LITTLE RISK OF STING.
The general objection to this mode of renewing combs,
is the fear of being stung. There is, however, but little
danger, not as much as in walking among the hives in a
warm day. Begin properly, use smoke, work carefully,
without pinching them, and you will generally escape un-
hurt. With the movable combs, it is only necessary to
take out a comb, shake off the bees, cut out what comb
you wish, and return it to the hive.
FREQUENT PRUNING NOT RECOMMENDED.
In giving these directions, I do not wish it to be forgotten
that I disapprove of frequent pruning. Combs once used
for breeding, can be used for no other purpose as well, as
they are undesirable for storing honey. The time of the
bees can be much more profitably employed than in build-
ing new brood-combs every year. Combs can be used for
ten years without detriment to the bees. The idea that
bees will become dwarfed by being raised in cells long used
for such a purpose, is seldom entertained by practical bee-
keepers. I have long believed it impossible for the most
interested advocate of renewal, to. detect any diminution
in the size of such bees.
210 DISEASED BROOD.
CHAPTER XIV.
DISEASED BROOD.
WHAT Is IT?
I find since writing the original chapter on this subject,
that bee-keepers are much more familiar with it than I
supposed. Mr. Langstroth in his work gave a fair descrip-
tion, terming it ‘foul brood,” but knew nothing of it from
his own experience. Mr. S. Wagner, of York, Pa., has
found much on the subject in the German Bee Journals.
He has kindly sent me translations of some articles con-
tributed by Dzierzon, the great German apiarian. I find
but little that is not identical with the experience concern-
ing it in thiscountry. In its first appearance in Dzierzon’s
apiary it was much more disastrous than I ever knew it to
be, and it came near sweeping away his whole apiary.
Afterwards, when better acquainted with it, he was more
succcessful in his management.
ITALIANS LESS AFFECTED.
It would be interesting to learn how he succeeds, since
he has introduced the Italians. Since their introduction
into my apiaries, the number affected with this disease has
diminished five-sixths. Whether this is to be attributed
to them I cannot say, but I am inclined to give them some
credit for it.
This disease is probably of recent origin in this country.
Mr. Weeks said in a newspaper article some years ago,
“since the potato rot commenced, I have lost one-fourth
of my bees annually by this disease,” and adds his fears,
“that this race of insects will become extinct from this
cause, if not arrested.”
DISEASED BROOD. 211
WHERE FOUND.
It now seems to be prevalent through nearly all of N.
Y., most of the Eastern States and in some parts of Ohio
and Pa. In the great California bee-fever a great many
diseased stocks were bought up for shipment, by specu-
lators, who were perfectly ignorant of its nature, which re-
sulted in spreading it through that State. Loud complaints
came back against unprincipled bee-keepers, attributing
blame where it did not always belong. Whether it has in-
creased or diminished within the last year or two, I have
not been informed.
WHEN FIRST DISCOVERED.
My first experience will probably go back to a date
beyond that of many others. It is now thirty years ago
since I noticed the first case. I had kept bees but four or
five years when I discovered it in one of my best stocks.
It cast no swarm through the summer, and in September,
instead of being crowded with bees, contained very few,
so few that I dared not attempt to winter it. What was
the matter? I had then never dreamed of ascertaining the
condition of a stock while there were bees in the way, but
was like the unskilfull physician, who is obliged to wait
for the death of his patient, that he may dissect and discover
the cause. I accordingly consigned the few remaining
bees to the “ brimstone pit.”
DESCRIPTION.
A post-mortem examination revealed the following state
of things. Nine-tenths of the breeding-cells contained
young bees in the larva state, stretched out at full length,
sealed over, dead, black, putrid, and emitting a disagree-
able smell. Here was one link in the chain of cause and
effect. I learned why there was a scarcity of bees in the
hive. What should have constituted their increase, had
212 DISEASED BROOD.
died in the cells; none were removed, consequently but
few cells, where any bees could be matured, were left.
But when I attempted to discover the next link in the
chain, viz :—What caused the death of this brood, just at
this stage of development—I was obliged to stop. Not
the least satisfaction could be obtained. All inquiries a-
mong the bee-keepers of my acquaintance were met with
profound ignorance. They had “never heard of it!” No
work on bees that I consulted ever mentioned it.
Subsequently I found more stocks in the same condition.
I learned whenever the disease existed to any extent, that
the few bees matured were insufficient to replace those that
were lost; that the colony rapidly declined, and never
afterwards cast a swarm.
REMEDIES ATTEMPTED.
I tried pruning out all the combs containing brood, leay-
ing only such as contained honey, and let the bees con-
struct new for breeding. It was of no use; these new
combs were invariably filled. with diseased brood. The
only effectual remedy was to drive out the bees into an
empty hive. In this way, when done in season, I generally
succeeded in raising a healthy stock. But here was a loss
of all surplus honey, and a swarm or two that might have
been obtained from a healthy one.
SUPPOSED CAUSE.
I had so many cases of the kind, that I became alarmed,
and made inquiry through the agricultural papers for a
cause and remedy, offering a reward “for one that would
not fail when thoroughly tested.” Mr. Weeks, in answer,
said that “cold weather in spring, chilling the brood was
the cause.” (This was several years prior to his article
spoken of.) Another gentleman said, that “the accumula-
tion of dead bees and filth during winter, when suffered to
¢
DISEASED BRUUD. 213
remain during spring, was the cause.” A few years after
another correspondent appeared in one of the papers, giv-
ing particulars of his experience, proving very conclusively
to himself and many others, that it was to be attributed
to cold. Having mislaid the paper containing his article,
I will endeavor to quote correctly from memory. He had
“three swarms issue in one day; the weather during the
day changed from very hot to the other extreme, produc-
ing frost in many places the next morning. These swarms
had left but few bees in the old stocks, and the cold forced
them up among the combs for mutual warmth; the brood
near the bottom, thus left without bees to protect it by
‘their animal heat, became chilled, and the consequence was
diseased larve.” He then reasoned thus, “if the eggs of
a fowl, at any time near the end of. incubation, become
chilled from any cause, it stops all further developments.
Bees are developed by continued heat, on the same princi-
ple, and a chill produces the same effect. Afterwards, other
swarms issued under precisely similar circumstances; but
these old stocks were covered with a blanket through the
night, which enabled the bees to keep-at the bottom of the
hive. In a few days, enough were hatched to render this
trouble unnecessary. These last remained healthy.”
He further says, that “last spring was the first time I
ever knew them to become diseased before swarming had
thinned the population. The weather was remarkably
pleasant through April. The bees obtained great quanti-
ties of pollen and honey, and by this means, extended their
brood further than usual at this season. Subsequent chilly
weather in May, caused the bees to desert a portion of
brood, which was destroyed by the chill.”
This is reasoning from cause to effect very consistently.
Had I no experience further than this, I should perhaps
rest satisfied as to the cause, and should endeavor to-apply
the remedy. Several other articles have appeared in dif:
214 DISEASED BROOD.
‘ferent papers, on this subject, and nearly all who assign a
cause have given this as the most probable. One says that
wintering in the house, and then suddenly transferring to
the open air, chills the brood. Now I have known the
bee in a chrysalis state, in a few stocks, to be chilled and
destroyed by a sudden turn of cold weather, yet these
were removed by the bees soon after, and the stocks re-
mained healthy. To me, the cause assigned seems inade
quate to produce all the observed results. After close, pa
tient observation for thirty years, I have never yet been
wholly satisfied that any one instance of diseased brood
among my bees, was thus produced.
We are all familiar to some extent with the contagious
diseases of the human family, such as small-pox, measles,
etc., and their rapid spread from a given point. We must
admit that some cause or causes adequate to the effect,
must have produced the first case. To contagion, then, I
would attribute the spread of this disease of our bees,
in nineteen cases in twenty. I will admit that one
stock in twenty or fifty may be affected by a chill
to some extent. It is only a portion of brood that
is in danger. Only such as have been sealed over, and
have not progressed to the chrysalis state are attacked.
How many then can there be in a hive, at any one
time in just the right stage of development to receive
the fatal chil? Of course there will be some, but they will
be confined to the cells near the bottom, where the bees
have left them exposed. This small number would never
seriously damage the stock, if the disease did not spread.
Why does it, then, when thoroughly started, spread so rap-
idly through all the combs in the hive? ‘Will it be said
that the chill is repeated every few days through the sum-
mer? Or must it not be admitted that something else
may continue it? I think that in most cases, there must
be other causes, besides the chill, to even originate it.
DISEASED BROOD. 215
As our practice will be in accordance with the view we
take in this matter, and the result will be somewhat impor-
tant, I will give some of the reasons that have led to this
conclusion.
Once in the month of March, all the bees of a good
swarm left the hive and united with another good stock,
making double the number of bees at this season; enough
to keep the brood sufficiently warm at any time, if other
stocks with half or quarter of the number could do so.
By the middle of June, the bees were much reduced, and
had not cast aswarm. The hive was examined, and the
brood found badly diseased.
My best and most populous stocks in spring, are just as
liable to be found in this condition, and I might add more .
so, than smaller or weaker families. I have united two large
swarms, and found them diseased the next autumn. (It is
probable that they obtained diseased honey.) These cases
prove strongly, if not exclusively, that animal heat is not
the only requisite. The facts, that when I had pruned out
all affected comb from a diseased stock, and left honey in
the top and outside pieces, and the bees constructed new
for breeding; and the brood in such were invariably af-
fected, slightly at first, and increasing as the combs were
extended, led me to suppose that it was a contagious dis-
ease, and the poison was contained in the honey. Some
of it being left in the hives, the bees had probably fed it
to the brood. To test this theory still further, I drove all
the bees from such diseased stocks, strained the honey, and
fed it to several young healthy swarms soon after being
hived. When examined a few weeks after, every one,
without an exception, had caught the contagion. Here
then. is a clue to the cause of the spread of the disease,
whether we have its origin or not. We will now see if
there is any consistency in the theory that it can be trans-
ferred from one stock to another.
216 DISEASED BROOD.
MANNER OF SPREADING.
- Suppose one stock has caught the infection, and but a
small portion of the brood is dead. In the heat of the hive,
it soon becomes putrid; adjoining cells containing larve
of the right age, are soon in the same condition. All the
br eeding combs in the hive become one putrid mass, with
an exception, perhaps of one cell in ten, twenty, or a hun-
dred that may perfect a bee. Thus the increase of bees is
not enough to replace the old ones that are continually dy-
ing off. It is plain, therefore, that this stock must soon
dwindle to a very small family. Let a scarcity of honey
now occur in the fields, this poor stock cannot be properly
guarded, and is easily plundered of all its contents. Honey
is taken that is in close proximity to dead bodies, corrupt-
ing by thousands, creating a pestilential vapor, of which it
has probably absorbed a portion. The seeds of destruction
are by this means carried into healthy stocks. In a short
time, these in turn fall victims to the scourge, and soon
dwindle away, when some other strong stock is able to
carry off their stores, and this destruction will only cease,
perhaps, with the last colony of the apiary. The moth is
ever ready with her burden of eggs, which she now depos-
its without hindrance, directly on the combs. In a short
time the worms finish the business, and are pronounced
guilty of all the charges, merely because they are found
carrying out effects that speedily follow such causes.
In the summer of 1856 there was an extraordinary yield
of honey. The old stocks were examined at the usual time
after the issue of the first swarms, and the ordinary amount
of the disease was found. On the next examination, in
September, more than one half the old stocks had become
affected, while all the new swarms in the same yard were
entirely free. Had these caught the contagion by robbing,
the swarms would have participated, and would have been
equally affected. A new cause was evidently to be sought for.
DISEASED BROOM. 217
MR. WAGNER'S VIEW.
Mr. Wagner, whom I have before mentioned, offered.a
solution, in substance as follows. After the old queen had
left the stock, and all brood had been fed and sealed up,
no more food was required for the young bees, till the
young queen had laid eggs which should hatch and need
it, a period of some two or three weeks. During this in-
terval, the workers continued to collect pollen, the principal
food of the larve, and store it in the hive. During the
time this pollen remained stored in the hive, and before
needed for brood, it became soured, decomposed, or by
some other process, rendered unhealthy, when fed to the
larve, and some of them sickened and died. The reason
that the swarms were not affected, was, that they had an
old queen steadily producing brvod, which required food
every day, and consumed this pollen in its fresh state, con-
sequently remained healthy. Now here was a theory ex-
plaining the origin of the phenomena better than most
others, though not perfectly satisfactory. A year or two
later, we had a very poor season for swarming, and but
few issued. This furnished a sort of test of this theory.
If on examination of 3 given number in the fall, there
should be more diseased ones among those that had
swarmed, than among those that had not, it would be
strong presumptive evidence in its favor. The result was
so nearly equal, that it proved nothing. Adding still an-
other hypothesis, and supposing that this poisonous mate-
rial is not obtained every year, would help it some, yet ii
would be necessary then to admit that these bad qualities
would affect the hive for several years afterward. It would
also suggest that the material was not pollen, but some
other substance. For instance, the secretions of the Aphis,
or Plant Louse. We all know that they are more numer-
ous some seasons than others. Mr. Wagner says that in
Germany the Aphides appéared one season, in countle.s
10
218 DISEASED BROOD.
myriads, secreting the saccharine fiuid in abundance. The
bees appropriated large quantities, and as a result, nine-
tenths became badly diseased. He suggested that our ev-
ergreens produced something of this kind. This is possible,
but not probable. Unless our evergreens are different
from others, or produce a different race of insects from
those produced where the disease never is found, we shall
need to look further for a solution.
There is no point connected with bee-keeping, on which
I have bestowed so much anxious thought, with such un-
satisfactory results. It is very difficult to detect the first
hundred or two larve that die inastock. But when nine-
tenths of the breeding-cells hold putrid larve, there is but
little difficulty in making out a diagnosis. The bees ‘are
few and inactive. When passing the hive, our olfactories
are saluted with nauseous eflluvia, arising from this cor-
rupting mass. Now, if we wish, or expect to escape the
most severe penalty, our neglect must never allow this
stage of progress before such a stock is removed. There-
fore, we must watch symptoms, and ascertain the presence
of the disease at the earliest possible moment.
CAUTION.
As no part of the breeding season is exempt, the stocks
should be carefully observed during spring, and early part
of summer, with reference to increase of bees. When any
are much behind others in this respect, make an examina-
tion immediately. The movable comb hive is readily ex-
amined by lifting out the combs, but the box-hive must be
inverted, and the bees smoked out of the way.
EXAMINATION.
Attention must be directed to the breeding-cells; with
a sharp pointed knife, proceed to cut off the ends of some
that appear to be the oldest, bearing in mind that young
DISEASED. BROOD. 219
bees are always white, until some time after they assume
the chrysalis form. Therefore if a larvee is found of a dark
color, it is dead. Should a dozen or two such be found,
the stock should be condemned at once, and all the bees
driven into an empty hive. On no consideration put them
into empty combs, as they would be likely to keep some
of the -honey for their brood. If it is desirable to put
them in a hive containing comb, they may be transferred to
it after they have -been in an empty one long enough to
consume all the’honey they have carried with them. (Di-
rections giving for driving in Cuar. xin.) If honey is
scarce at the time, they should be fed. But if it is discov-
ered too late for honey to be collected, it will hardly pay
to feed them.
The honey from the old hive may be used, if the poison
is first destroyed. This may be done by scalding. Adda
quart of water to about ten pounds of honey, stir it well, heat
it to the boiling point, and carefully remove all the scum.
Stocks, in which the disease has not progressed too
far, will generally swarm. Three weeks after the first
swarm, is the proper time to examine them. I make it a
rule to inspect all my stocks at this period. It is easily
done, as about all the healthy brood, except drones, should
be matured in that time. By perseverance in these rules,
I allow-no stocks to dwindle away until they are plundered
by others,
If all bee-keepers were equally careful this disease
would only occasionally be found. This is like a careless
farmer, allowing a noxious weed to mature seeds, to be
wafted by winds to the lands of a careful neighbor, who
must fortify himself to continual vigilance, or endure a
foul pest. So with a successful apiarian, in sections where
it has not appeared, he must-be continually on the watch.
Vigilance is the price of success.
Again, after the breeding season is over, in the fall,
220 DISEASED BROOD.
every stock should be thoroughly inspected, and all diseased
ones condemned for stock hives. Even if it should take the
last one, it would pay to procure healthy ones instead.
Persons wishing to eat the honey from such hives, will ex-
perience no bad effects from it, if they are careful to re-
move the brood combs, as they take it out of the hive. |
Careless bee-keepers, when their hives are robbed, feel
regret, or are more often vexed with some one, at the re-
sult of their own carelessness. The real cause of com-
plaint more often belongs to the owners of the robbing
bees, as the honey obtained in this way, probably carries
with it more mischief than can be eradicated in a twelve
month.
ASSUMED KNOWLEDGE,
It is interesting to read the descriptions of this disease
by the would-be bee-doctors, who have never had a case
during their “long” experience. They have heard of it,
somewhere, and forthwith they know all about it, prescribe
remedies, and recommend antidotes. An article appeared
in an agricultural paper not long since, with alarming fea-
tures. After describing the disease, he gave as the only
safe remedy, burning the hive, killing the bees, and bury-
ing the remainder of the contents ; proving that he knew
nothing of the subject, and had copied from some unrelia-
ble source. A person, who will advise such waste, should
not be accepted as a teacher of the people. To say he ad-
vised it ignorantly, without due consideration, does not
help the matter. Why did he assume to teach what he
knew nothing about? What is the use of killing a colony
of bees, when, if attended to in season, they may be con-
verted into a good stock, worth several dollars? Such
nives often contain several pounds of beautiful honey,—
why bury it? And why waste one or two pounds of good
wax which may be readily exchanged for gold?
ANGER OF BEES. 221
He likewise cautioned purchasers of Italian queens, who
live in districts where the disease has not appeared, to
never procure them from a section where it exists ; because
if the little combs that are sent with the queen should
contain any honey from such a hive, “the disease would
go with it, as sure as fate.” IJ have never known such a
result in a single instance. Neither have I ever found an
experienced apiarian, one who knew what he was saying,
who advanced such an idea. Should a full colony, badly
affected, be sent into a district where it never appeared,
there is no need of its being extended. If the bees are
simply transferred to an empty hive, and the contents
secured from pillage, it would go no further. There would
be no loss, except in transferring.
CHAPTER XV.
ANGER OF BEES.
CAUSES OF IRR:TABILITY.
Keeping bees good natured, offers a pretty fair subject
for ridicule, for it seems rather too absurd to talk of teach-
ing a bee anything. Nevertheless, it is worth while to
think of it a little. Most of us know, that by injudicious
training, horses, cattle, dogs, etc., may be rendered ex-
tremely vicious. If there is no perceptible analogy between
them and bees, experience proves that they too, may be
made ten times more irritable than they are naturally.
Nature has provided them with weapons to defend their
stores, and combativeness sufficient to use them when ne-
cessary. If they were powerless to repel an enemy, there
are a thousand lazy depredators, man not excepted, who
would prey upon the fruits of their industry, leaving them
222 ANGER OF BEES.
tostarve. Had it been so arranged, this industrious insect
would probably have long since become extinct.
In seasons when buckwheat abounds, they seem to mani-
fest more than usual irritability during its bloom. As
soon as a stock is pretty well supplied with this world’s
goods, like some bipeds, they become haughty, aristocratic
and insolent. A great many things are construed into
insults, that, in their days of adversity, would pass unno-
ticed ; but now it is becoming and due to their honor to
show “a just resentment.” It behooves us, therefore, to
ascertain what are considered as insults. First, all quick
motions about them, such as running, striking, etc., are
noticed. If our movements among them are slow, cau-
tious, and respectful, we are often let to pass unmolested,
having manifested a becoming deportment. Yet the
exhalations from some persons appear to be very offensive,
as they attack some much sooner than others, though I
apprehend there is not so great a difference as many sup-
pose. Whenever an attack is made, and a sting follows,
the venom thus imparted to the air is perceived by others
at some distance, who will immediately approach the scene,
and more stings are likely to follow. :
The breathing of a person into the hive, or among them
when clustered outside, is corsidered in the tribunals of
their insect wisdom, as the greatest indignity. A sudden
jar, sometimes made by carelessly turning up the hive is an-
other. After being once thoroughly irritated in this way,
they remember it a long time, and are continually on the
alert ; the moment the hive is touched they are ready to
salute a person’s face. When slides of tin or zinc are used
to cut off the communication between the hives and boxes,
some of the bees are apt to be crushed, or ent in two.
This they remember and retaliate as occasion offers; and
it may be when quietly walking in the apiary.
ANGER OF BEES. 223
HOW THEY MAKE AN ATTACK,
I must disagree with any one who says that we always
have warning before being stung. Two-thirds of them
sting without giving the least intimation. At other
times, when fully determined on vengeance, I have had
them strike my hat, and remain a moment endeavoring to
effect their object. In this case, I have warning to hold
down my face to protect it from a second attempt which
is quite sure to follow. As they fly horizontally, the face
held in that position is not so liable to be attacked.*
‘When they are not so thoroughly angry, they often ap-
proach in merely a threatening attitude, buzzing around
very provokingly for several minutes in close proximity to
one’s ears and face, apparently to ascertain our intentions.
If nothing hostile or displeasing is perceived, they will
generally leave ; but should a quick motion, or disagree-
able breath offend them, the dreaded result is not long de-
layed. Too many people are apt to construe these threat-
ening manifestations into positive intentions to sting.
NEVER IRRITABLE WITEN AFTER HONEY.
They never make an attack while in quest of honey, or
on their return, until they have enteréd the hive. It is
only in the hive and its vicinity that we may expect them
to manifest this irascible temperament. It may be sub-
dued in a great measure, if not entirely, by working
quietly and using smoke. Any person, having the care
of bees, should be armed with this powerful weapon. As
bees are not much affected with smoke while flying in the
air, but will there have their own way,.we must teach
them a proper deportment in the hive.
* Striking them down renders them ten times more furious. Not in the least
daunted they return to the attack. Not the least show of fear is perceived.
Even after losing their sting, they obstinately refuse to desist. The best way is
to walk as quietly as possible to the shelter of some bush or to the house. They
will seldom go inside of the door.
224 ANGER OF BEES.
Those who are accustomed to smoking will find a pipe
or cigar very convenient here. But I would not advise
any one to make this an excuse for forming a bad habit.*
SMOKER DESCRIBED.
Get a tin tube five-eighths of an inch diameter, five or
six inches in length; make stoppers of wood to fit each
end, two and a half or three inches long, tapered at the
ends. With a nail-gimlet make a hole through them
lengthwise; when put together, it should be about ten
inches in length. On one end make a notch, that it may
be held with the teeth, which is the most convenient way,
as you will often want to use both hands. When ready to
operate, fill the tube with tobacco, ignite it, and put in the
stoppers ; by blowing through it, you keep the tobacco
burning, while the smoke issues at the other end. This
requires blowing almost constantly to keep it burning. I
have another mode of using tobacco which is very conve-
nient. Take a piece of old cotton or linen cloth eighteen
inches long by six wide. Spread over it a layer of tobacco
one-fourth of an inch thick. Roll up and fasten with a
needle and thread. Light one end and it will continue
burning as long as required. The smoke of decayed wood,
commonly known as spunk or touch-wood, is also useful—.
but there are cases of extreme irritability, where it does
not seem to be as efficient as tobacco. We can now sub-
due these combative propensities, or render them harmless;
turn their anger to submission, and force them to yield
their treasures to the hands of the spoiler without an effort
of resistance. When once overpowered, they seem to lose
all knowledge of their power, and no slave can be more
submissive.
*I continued the practice for years for the mere convenience of the smoke
when operating among my bees. But by using some simple substitutes which I
will describe, IT have managed bees for seven years without pipe or cigar, and
much more to my satisfaction,
iw
iw
Mai
ANGER OF BEKS.
_ IPALIANS LESS DOCILE.
After the effect of the smoke has passed off, their former
animosity will return. Should any resentment be shown
on raising a hive, blow in the smoke; they will immedi-
ately retreat, “begging pardon.” The Italians, after ap-
parent submission, will return to the attack several times.
It often requires one to smoke them, while another operates.
If you wish to take off a box, raise it just enough to
blow the smoke under; you can replace it with another
without trouble, and a little smoke will keep the bees out
of the way. Those in the box are all submission; the box
can be carried away and handled as you please, without
their becoming irritated, until they once more get home,
and then are much more amiable than if the box had been
taken without the smoke. They do not seem to realize
anything concerning the transaction.
When bees are to be transferred to a new hive, it is un-
necessary to be so very particular about the escape of a
single bee; no fears need be felt of such as get out. In
driving, the loud humming indicates their fear; the up-
per hive can then be raised safely. After being thus
driven out, they may be pushed about with impunity, and
will still remain quiet. In short, the use of smoke on all
occasions where they would be likely to be disturbed by
our meddling with them, has a tendency to keep dormant
their combative propensities. When these have never been
aroused, there is much less danger of their attacks, while
walking or looking among them.
BEE-CHARMS UNRELIABLE.
As for advertised “ Bee-Charms” I would recommend
very moderate investments until they have been tested.
And you will soon have “enough and: to spare,” unless
you get a different avticle from any I have ever seen.
10*
226 ANGER OF BEES.
STING.
The sting of the bee, as it appears to the naked eye, is
a tiny instrument of war, so small, indeed, that its wound
would pass unheeded by all the larger animals, were it not
for the poison introduced at the same instant.
It has been described as being “composed of three
parts, a sheath and two darts. Both the darts are furnished
with small points or barbs like a fish-hook,” that hold it
when thrust into the flesh; the bee being compelled to
leave it behind.
DOES ITS LOSS PROVE FATAL?
It is said that “‘to the bee itself this mutilation proves
fatal.” This is another assertion so often repeated, that
perhaps we might as well admit it; as it would be difficult
to disprove it. Think of the impossibility of keeping our
eye, for five minutes, on a bee that is flying about, after it
has left its sting. Yet there are some persons, so very
particular about what they accept as. fact, that they would
require that a bee should be watched till it died, before
they could be positively sure that the loss of its sting
caused its death. They might reason from analogy, and
sdy that other insects possess so little sensation that they
have been known to recover, after much more extensive
mutilation—that beetles have lived for months under cir-
cumstances that would instantly kill some of the higher
animals—that spiders often reproduce a leg, and even lob-
sters sometimes replace a lost claw, etc.
I have endeavored to show that there is no.great reason
for fear in our operations among bees, yet it is idle to sup-
pose that all will manage successfully without some means
of defence, especially when dealing with the Italians. The
face and hands being most exposed, need some protection.
Thick woolen mittens or rubber gloves are best; the sting
is generally left when thrust into a leather glove.
ANGER OF BEES. 227
PROTECTION,
To protect the face, procure one and a half yards of
thin muslin or calico, sew the ends together, and gather
one edge on arubber cord to fit the crown of a hat, cut
out an arm hole on each side, and put a string in
the bottom to gather it close to
the body, or make it shorter and
tie around the neck. As I do
B not expect you to work in the
dark, we will have a piece cut out
in front, and coarse lace, or fine
wire-cloth inserted. That which
is just fine enough to prevent a bee
_from passing, is best, as it gives a
better chance to see. To keep the
lace from falling against the face,
sew a wire around it. To facilitate
smoking, I have a tube of some
convenient material, several inches
in length, passing through the lace
or wire-cloth, one end of which can
be taken in the mouth, and with which the smoke can be
directed wherever desired.
Whenever only a partial protection is necessary, a hand-
kerchief is suitable, it is always at hand, and can be put on
inamoment. Throw it over the head, letting it fall around
the neck and shoulders, covering all but the face. The hat
can be put on over it.
Fig. 26.—BEE HAT.
REMEDIES FOR STINGS.
It is difficult to tell which are the best remedies for
stings. There is so much difference in the effect upon
‘different individuals, and upon different parts of the body,
as well as in-the depth a sting reaches, that remedies effuc-
tual in one instance, will be virtueless in another,
228 ENEMIES OF BEES.
For a number of years, I have used none whatever for
myself, and the effect is no worse, nor even as bad as for-
merly. (It is said that this is because the system is hard-
ened to the effects of the poison.) Among the remedies
recommended, are saleratus and water, salt and water,
soft-soap and salt, a raw onion cut in two and one-half ap-
plied, mud or clay mixed wet and changed often, tobacco
wet and thoroughly rubbed to get the strength, and con-
stant applications of cold water. To allay the smarting,
the application of tobacco is strongly urged, and cold wa-
ter is spoken of with equal favor to prevent the swelling.
When stung in the throat, drinking often of salt and
water is said to prevent serious consequences.
‘Whether any of these remedies are applied or not, it is
hardly necessary to say that the sting should be pulled out
as.soon as practicable.
CHAPTER XVI.
ENEMIES OF BEES.
Among the enemies of bees, are included rats, mice,
birds, toads and insects. But some of these are probably
not guilty of any actual mischief. I strongly suspect that
the spirit of destructiveness is altogether too active in
many people. There are some farmers, so short sighted
and vindictive, that, were it in their power, they would
destroy a whole class of birds, because some of them had
picked a few cherries, or dug out a few hills of corn, when, at
the same time, they are indebted to their activity in devour-
ing worms, insects, etc., that would otherwise have
destroyed entire crops. It will be well, therefore, to see
if we are to be losers or gainers by an indiscriminate
slaughter, before we pass sentence on these reputed pests.
ENEMIES O¥ BEES. 229
RATS AND MICE.
Rats and mice are never troublesome, except in cold
weather. The entrances of all hives standing out, are
much too small to admit a rat. No damage need be ap-
prehended from them except when the hives are in the
house. They appear to be fond of honey, and when it is
accessible, will eat several pounds in a short time.
Mice will often enter the hive when on the stand, and
make extensive depredations. Sometimes, after cutting a
space in the combs, they will make their nests there. The
animal heat created by the bees, will make a snug warm
place for winter quarters.. The “deer mouse” seems to
be particularly fond of the bees, while those belonging to
the house, appear to relish the honey. Whether they take
live bees, or only such as are already dead, I cannot say.
Only a part of the bee is eaten, and judging from the frag.
ments left, they must consume quite a number. Whether
they take bees or honey, a little care to prevent their de-
predations, is well worthy of bestowal. As rats and mice
have so long been condemned and sentenced as universal
plagues, without any redeeming traits, I will say nothing
in their favor, and am perfectly willing that they shall be
hanged until dead.
A WORD FOR THE KING-BIRD.
But for some of the birds accused of preying upon bees,
I would say a word. The king-bird stands at the head of
the list of feathered depredators. With a fair trial he will
be found guilty, though not so heinously criminal as many
suppose. I think we shall find him guilty of taking only
drones. In the afternoon of a fair day, he may be seen
perched upon some dry branch of a shrub or tree near
the apiary, watching for his victims. I have shot him, and
examined his crop, after seeing him devour a goodly num-
ber, but in every instance the bees were so crushed that it
230 ENEMIES OF BEES.
was impossible to distinguish workers from drones. We
are told of great numbers of workers being thus found.
It may be so, or it may be thus represented by prejudice.
The brutal desire of taking life is so strong with some,
that a morbid antipathy is allowed to take the place of
justice, and a proper defence is not allowed in cases where
the suffering party has not the power to enforce it. If the
king-bird devoured workers. instead of drones, why does
he not visit the apiary long before noon, and fill his crop
with them? But instead, he waits until afternoon; if no
drones are flying, he watches quietly till one appears, al-
though workers may be out by. hundreds. If it is asked
how they distinguish them, I would suggest that instinct,
which teaches most animals the proper kinds of food,
might direct the birds in this case.
CHICKENS WILL EAT DRONES,
I have seen chickens which would stand by the hive and
devour every drone, as soon as he touched the board,
while workers would pass in scores untouched. Whether
this loss of the drones is a disadvantage or otherwise, de-
pends entirely upon circumstances. If there is a scarcity
of honey, the fewer drones the better. It is a matter of
so little importance to the bees, that it would probably not
pay for powder to shoot the depredators.
Martins, and a kind of swallow, are said to be guilty of
taking bees on some occasions, but as they pursue them
on the wing, the remarks concerning the king-bird are ap-
plicable to them.
CAT-BIRD ACQUITTED.
The cat-bird also comes in for a share of censure. It is
said “he will get right down by the hive, and pick-up
bees by the hundred.” Yet, in the face of this charge, I
am disposed to acquit him. With the closest observation,
ENEMIES OF BEES. 281
I find him picking up only young and immature bees, such
-as are thrown out from the combs. They may be seen
-about the apiary, as soon as the first rays of light make
objects visible, looking for their morning supply, as well
as frequently during the day. Should an unlucky worm
be in sight just then, looking up a place to spin a cocoon,
or a moth be reposing on some corner of the hive, its fate
is at once decided. Before destvoying this bird, it would
be well to judge from actual observation of the truth of
the charges against him, else we may “ destroy-a friend
instead of a foe.”
THE TOAD,
A toad is discovered near the hives, and is forthwith
executed asa bee-eater. Says one—“ he ought to be killed
for his looks, if nothing else.” He is thus often sacrificed
really on account of his appearance, on the nominal pre-
tence that he isa villain. After he is despatched, the com-
plaint is made that the bugs that he might have destroyed,
“have eaten: up all the little cucumbers and cabbages!”
His food is probably small insects. I had strong doubts
of his being a bee-eater for a long time after the first edi-
tions of this work were published, notwithstanding the
positive assurance by some of my bee-keeping friends, that
he was guilty. I watched closely for years, without dis-
covering anything to confirm the assertion. At last, one
dark, cloudy day, when but few bees were stirring, I
found a corpulent fellow perched upon a stand, close to
the entrance, seeming very much at home, and gazing at
nothing with the most stupid indifference. A bee lit be-
side him, when after a slight motion of the eye, his mouth
opened, and closed like a flash of lightning.’ The bee was
-gone!—his long flexible tongue had anes it beyond
-the reach of help.
Again he was motionless, and mute as a stone, waiting
232 ENEMIES OF BEES.
for another victim with the most provoking complacency.
I found in his stomach more than a dozen which he had al-
ready swallowed; they were dead, but not mutilated.
Notwithstanding his shabby ingratitude in impudently
committing the crime before my very face, after fooling
me so long with his innocent looks, and allowing me to
plead his case for years, Iam going to hand him over to
the judge with a strong “recommendation to mercy.” I
trust he will reform, and not cultivate a taste for beautiful
Italians. When he can control his appetite, so as to be
content with the delicacies that the garden affords, he may
rise in our estimation.
He can be excluded from the apiary, if desired, by a
close fence, a foot in height.
BLACK WASP.
But little can be said in favor of the black wasps that
visit the hives in the sunny days of spring. They seem to
have no other object than to tease and irritate the bees. I
never could discover that they entered the hive for pur-
poses of plunder. They have frequent battles with the
bees, but I never saw any bees devoured, or carried off, or
even killed, although sad havoc is sometimes reported.
After the first of June, they are seldom troublesome. The
yellow wasps or hornets that are around in autumn, are
of but little account ; their object is honey which they take
when they can, but are not apt to enter the hive among
the bees.
ANTS—A WORD IN THEIR FAVOR.
Ants come in for a share of condemnation. These in-
dustrious little insects shall have my efforts for a fair hear-
ing. Many bee-keepers are wholly ignorant, most of the
time, of the real condition of their stocks. Many causes,
independent of ants, induce a reduction of population.
o
ENEMIES OF BEES. 233
Suppose the bees are so reduced as to leave the combs un-
protected, and the ants enter and appropriate some of the
honey. The owner comes along just then, and sees them
engaged: “Ha, you are the rascals who have destroyed
my bees,” he exclaims, without a thought of looking for
causes beyond present appearances. They are often un-
justly accused by the farmer, of injuring his little trees,
by causing the tender leaves to curl and wither. Inquiries
are often made in agricultural papers for means of cdestroy-
ing them, when the real cause of the mischief is the Aphi-
des, that are upon the leaves and stalks in hundreds,
robbing them of their important juices, and secreting a
fluid highly prized by the ants.
The habits of the small black ants give rise to suspicion
of mischief. They live in communities of thousands, having
their nests in old walls, old timber, or in the earth. From
these nests a string of ants may be sometimes traced for
rods, going after, and returning with food. During wet
weather, such as would make the earth, and many other
places too damp and cold for a nest, they look out for bet-
ter quarters. The top or chamber of our bee-hives affords
a desirable shelter. The animal heat from the bees renders
it perfectly comfortable. How can we blame them for
choosing a location-so completely supplying all their wants?
But the careless observer discovering their train to and
fro, from their nest on the hive, exclaims: ““ Why, I have
seen them going in a continual stream to the hive after
honey ;” when a little scrutiny would show that the nest
was on the top of the hive, and they were going elsewhere
for food, not one to be seen entering the hive among the
bees for honey. When honey is unprotected by bees, and
left where they can have access, they will naturally carry
off some, but it may be easily secured.
234 ENEMIES OF BEES.
SPIDERS.
Spiders are of course a considerable annoyance to the
apiarian, as well as to the bees; not so much on account
of the number of bees consumed, as from their habit of
spinning a web about the hive, that will occasionally take
a moth, but will probably entangle fifty bees the while.*
They are probably in fear of the bees, or else, they do not
relish the bee as food, as one caught in the morning is fre-
quently untouched during the day. This web is often ex-
actly before the entrance, entangling the bees as they go
out and return, irritating and hindering them greatly,
though they often escape after repeated struggles. I have
removed a web from the same place, every morning for a
week, that was renewed at night with astonishing persever-
‘ance. The redeeming qualities of the spider are few, and
are more than balanced by its evil propensities. Their
sagacity will sometimes find a place of concealment, not
easily discovered. At the approach of cold weather, the
box or chamber of the hive, being a little warmer than other
places, will attract a great many there to deposit their
eggs. Little piles of webbing may be seen attached to the
top of the hive, or sides of boxes. These contain eggs for
the next year’s brood. This is the time to destroy them,
and save trouble for the future.
MOTH.
If we combine into one phalanx all the depredators yet
named, and compare their ability for mischief, with that
of the wax-moth, we shall find their powers of destruction
but feeble in comparison. From the moth herself, we
would have nothing to fear were it not for her progeny;
a hundred or thousand vile worms, whose food is princi-
pally wax or comb.
* Not long since, an eminent apiarian recommended the spider as an assistant
in destroying the moth,
ENEMIES OF BEES. 2385
As the instincts of the flesh-fly direct her to a putrid
carcass to deposit her eggs, that her offspring may have
their proper food, so the moth seeks the hive containing
-combs, where the natural food of her progeny is at hand.
During the day a rusty brown miller, with wings close to
the body, may be often seen lying perfectly motionless, on
the corner of a hive, or on the under. edge of the top,
where it projects over. They are more frequent at the
corners than anywhere else, one-third of their length pro-
‘jecting beyond it, appearing much like a sliver on the
edge of a board that is somewhat weather-beaten.
Fig. 27.—BEE MOTH—TWO-MALES AND ONE FEMALE,
Their color so closely resembles old wood, that I have
no doubt their enemies are often deceived, and they thus
escape with their lives. Assoon as darkness shuts out the
view, and there is no danger of their movements being
discovered, they throw off their inactivity,.and commence
searching for a place to deposit their eggs, and woe to the
stock. that has not bees sufficient to keep them from the
comb. Although their larve generally has a skin that the
bee cannot pierce with its sting, it is not so with the moth,
and they seem.to be aware of the fact, for whenever-a bee
approaches, they dart away with a speed ten times greater
Pad
236 ENEMIES OF BEES.
than that of any bee disposed to follow. They enter the
hive, and dodge out in a moment either from fear of the
bees, or from having actually encountered them. Now it
needs no argument to show, that when our stocks are well
protected, there must be a poor chance for depositing eggs
upon the combs, which instinct teaches them is the proper
place. But they must leave them somewhere. -
WHERE THEIR EGGS ARE DEPOSITED.
When driven from all the combs within, the next best
places are the cracks and flaws about the hive, that are
lined with propolis; and the dust and chips that fall on the
floor-board of a young swarm not full. This last material
is mostly wax, and answers very well instead of comb.
The eggs will hatch here, and the worms sometimes ascend
to the comb, hence the necessity of keeping the bottom
brushed off clean. It will prevent those hatched on the
Fig. 19.—woRM GALLERY IN THE COMB.
bottom from going up, also prevent the bees from taking
up any eggs on their feet, if this should happen to be the
method by which they get among the combs of a populous
stock. They are often detected there, and I can conceive
of no other means by which they can be deposited. A
ENEMIES OF BEES. 237
worm lodged in the comb makes his way either to the cen-
tre, or between the heads of the young bees in the cells
and the sealing, and as he proceeds, eats a passage, lining
it with a shroud of silk, and gradually enlarging it, as he
increases in size. "When combs are filled with honey, they
work on the surface, eating only the sealing, In very weak
families, this silken
passage is left un-
touched, but is re-
moved by all strong
: colonies. I have found
Fig. 28.—wWoRM GALLERY REMOVED FROM jf, asserted that “the
THE COMB.
worms would be all
immediately destroyed by the bees were it not for a kind
of dread of touching them, until compelled by necessity.”
As the facts which led to this conclusion are not given,
and I can find none confirming it, perhaps I shall be ex-
cused for being “of little faith.” On the contrary, I find to
all appearance, an instinctive antipathy to all intruders, and
they immediately remove them when possessing the power.
WORMS SOMETIMES WORK IN THE CENTRE OF COMBS.
When a worm is in the centre of a comb filled with
brood, its passage is not at first discovered. The bees, to
get it out, must bite away half the thickness of the comb,
removing the brood in one or two rows of cells, sometimes
for several inches. This will account for the number of
immature bees found on the floor-board at morning, in the
spring ; as well as in stocks and swarms but partially pro-
tected after the swarming season.
BEES MUTILATED BY WEB.
Sometimes a half dozen young bees nearly mature will
be removed alive, all webbed together, fastened by legs,
wings, etc. All their efforts to break loose prove unavail-
238 ENEMIES OF BEES;
ing.. Others may be seen running about with their wings
mutilated, part of their legs eaten off, or tied together:
These are often the first symptoms of worms at this season.
(July and August.) Although unfavorable, it might be
worse. It shows that the bees are not yet discouraged,
that when they find the worms present, they have still
sufficient energy to make an effort to rid themselves of the
nuisance. Should the apiarian now give them a little as-
sistance for a few days, they will soon be in a prosperous
condition. The hive should be frequently raised, and ev-
erything brushed out clean. If a new swarm part full
presents these indications, it should be turned over, per-
haps, once a week, till the worms are mastered, and the
corners inside examined for the cocoons which may be
easily detached and destroyed.
In turning over a hive part full, in warm weather, you
should first observe the position of the combs, and let the
edges rest against the side of the hive, otherwise they
may bend, and break loose when the hive is again set up.
When a hive is full of combs, the edges are usually more
firmly attached, and it is of less consequence which way it
is turned ; yet in very warm weather the honey will run
out of drone cells, if perpendicular.
BEES FASTENED IN THE CELL.
In very small swarms, hundreds of young bees may be
frequently seen with their heads out of the cells, endeavor-
ing to escape, but firmly held inside by moth webs. I
have known a few instances in such circumstances, where
it appeared as if the bees had designedly cut off the whole
sheet of comb, and let it drop, thereby ridding themselves
of all farther trouble.
,
ENEMIES, OF BEES. 239
DIFFERENT APPEARANCE. IN OLD STOCKS.
‘But when the bees in old stocks make no effort to dis-
lodge the enemy or his works, .the case is somewhat
desperate. We must look for something entirely different
from the foregoing symptoms. But few young bees will
be found. In their place we shall find the feces of the
worms dropped on the board. The chips dropped by the
bees, in biting off the covering of the cells, to get at the
honey, closely resemble them. To detect tie difference
requires close inspection. The color of the foeces varies
with the color of the combs on which the worms feed,
from white to brown and black. The size of these grains
will vary in proportion to. the size of the worm, from a
mere speck to nearly as large as a pin head; shape cylin-
drical, with obtuse ends, length about twice the diameter
By the quantity we can judge of the number of worms
If the hive is full of combs, the lower.ends may appear
perfect, while the middle or upper part is sometimes .a mat
of webs.
Whenever our stocks have become reduced from over-
swarming or other causes, the ravages of worms are to be
expected. Here is another important reason for knowing
the actual condition of our bees at all times; we can de-
tect the operations of the worms very soon after they
commence. In some instances we can save the stock by
breaking out most of the combs, leaving just enough to be
covered by the bees, When success attends this operation,
it must be performed before the worms have made a per-
manent lodgment. When the stock is weak, and appear-
ances indicate the presence of many worms, it will be the
least trouble in the end, and generally, the safest method,
to drive out the bees at once, and secure the honey ail
wax. The bees may do a little, if put into a new hive,
but if they should do nothing, it would be no worse than
to. leave them in the old hive’ ill the worms had destroyed
240 ENEMIES OF BEES.
all,.and matured a few thousand moths in addition to those
otherwise produced, thereby multiplying the chances of
damage to other stocks a thousand fold. It is probably
remembered that I said, when bees are removed from a
hive in warm weather, that if the hive were not infested
with worms at the time, it soon would be, unless smoked
with sulphur.
WORMS GROW LARGER WHEN UNDISTURBED.
In a hive thus left without bees, the worms will grow
one-half or two two-thirds larger than when their right to
the comb is disputed. In one case
they often make their growth,
and actually wind up in their
cocoon, when less than an inch
in length; in the other, they will
quietly fatten till they are an inch and a half long, and as
large as a pipe-stem.
When first hatched from the egg it is difficult to dis-
cern them with the naked eye. Their rapidity of growth
depends as much, or more, on the temperature in which
they are, than upon their good living. A few days of hot
weather, may develop the full-grown worm, while it would
require weeks and even months in a lower temperature.
Fig. 1.—MOTH-WorM.
The worm, after
spinning its co-
coon, soon changes
into a chrysalis,
and remains inac-
tive for several
days, when it
makes an opening Fig. 29.—cocoons oF THE MOTH WORM.
in one end, and crawls out. The time necessary for this
transformation is also governed by the temperature, al-
though, I think but few ever pass the winter in this state.
ENEMIES OF BEES. 241
A moth will rarely be found before the end of May, and
not many are seen till the middle of June; but after this
time they are more numerous till the end of the season.
FREEZING DESTROYS THEM.
It is well demonstrated that the moth, its eggs, larvee,
ete., cannot pass the winter without warmth sufficient to
prevent freezing. It can be shown thus. Take all the
bees out of a hive in the fall, and without disturbing the
honey and comb, put it in a cold chamber where it can
freeze thoroughly. In the following March, introduce
bees, and when not contiguous to a stock containing
worms, not a single worm will be produced before the
middle of June, or until the eggs of some moth matured
in another hive have had time to hatch. Such hives may
be kept for swarms, without any appearance of worms.
The discovery that worms and eggs can be frozen to
death, has led to a plan by which the whole race of
moths can be exterminated from an apiary, and only re-
appear from those of neighbors. When aided by mov-
able combs, it is entirely practicable. I have tried it to
some extent, but since learning that the Italians resisted
the moth so much more effectually than the natives, I
have not practiced it extensively.
EXTERMINATION OF THE MOTI.
It is simply to expose the combs, free from bees, to a
temperature of 18° below freezing, for ten to twenty
hours after they are once thoroughly cold. To describe
more minutely, I would say that during December or early
in January, before the bees have much brood, is the best
time.
Take the hive to a dark room, using artificial light to
keep the bees from flying. Take out one comb, with honey
enough to last for several days, and put it in an empty
hive. Set over this, another empty one of the same size,
11
242 ENEMIES OF BEES.
without top or bottom. Take out the next frame, and hold
it down in the top hive, and shake or brush the bees into
the lower one. As the frames should be put back into the
hive in the same relative position, it is well to number
them before any are removed.
‘When the bees have been taken from all the combs in
turn, the latter may be put away to freeze. Each comb
should be separated from the others, at least several
inches, unless they can have plenty of time to freeze.
Combs, close together as they are in the hive, will re.
main warm a long time. After being sufficiently frozen,
they must be warmed for several hours before they are in
proper condition to receive the bees. The comb left with
the bees must undergo the same process. If preferred, one
half the combs may be taken first, and then changed for
the other half. In case you have more good colonies than
you care to keep, you may kill the bees, freeze the combs,
and transfer the colonies into them to remain; it will save
transferring once.
The bees, not comprehending what all the shaking is a-
bout, will become very indignant at the unnecessary abuse,
especially when it is repeated at the second transfer.
Could a cheap freezing mixture of proper intensity be
applied for a length of time sufficient to freeze to the cen-
tre, the operation might be performed in November, or as
soon as all the brood is hatched.
If all the bee-keepers in a neighborhood, town or county,
could be induced to do this perseveringly for a year or
two, it is plain that the extermination would be so nearly
complete, that it would take a long time for the moths to
regain their former position.
Any one situated a goodly distance from neighboring
bees, would find the summer pretty well advanced before
there was even any appearance of moths. What the dif
ference would be, on the average, in the prosperity of our
ENEMIES OF BEES. 2438
bees, betwen those free from moths, and those, as ordinarily
troubled with them, must be guess-work. It is evident
that it is sometimes not less than one-fourth or one-third.
These remarks are with reference to the black bees, The
Italians take care of themselves so well that much trouble
in this respect is unnecessary.
SELDOM ENTIRELY EXEMPT IN ORDINARY MANAGEMENT.
But hives in which bees are wintered in the usual way,
are seldom or never exempt. It is probably impossible to
winter bees without preserving some eggs, or a few worms,
at the same time. The perfect moth probably never sur-
vives the winter; the only place in which the chrysalis
would be safe, I think must be in the vicinity of the bees,
and a good stock will never allow it there,—but eggs it
would appear are suffered to remain. In the fall, at the
approach of cold weather, the bees are apt to leave the
ends of the combs exposed. The moth can enter, and de-
posit her eggs directly upon them; these together with
what are carried in by means before suggested, will insire
a good supply for the coming season.
The warmth generated by the bees will keep these eggs
from freezing. When warm weather approaches in the
spring, those nearest the bees probably hatch first, com-
mence their depredations, and are removed by the bees.
As the bees increase and occupy more comb, more worms
are hatched. In this way, even a small family will hatch
and get rid of all the eggs that happen to be in their
combs, and not be destroyed. This is the time that the
apiarian may be of service in destroying the worms, as
they are thrown on the floor by the bees.
In July or August a single moth may enter an exposed
‘hive, and deposit her burden of several hundred eggs as in
the other case, but the heat from the bees is now unneces-
sary to hatch them. The weather at this season will make
244 ENEMIES OF BEES.
any part of the hive warm enough to set her whole brood
at work at once, and in three weeks all may be destroyed.*
This, and the fact that more moths exist now than before,
may account for the greater number of stocks destroyed
at this season. Yet, it is considered extremely bad man-
agement to allow honey or combs to be devoured by this
disgusting creature. It is necessary to know the condition
of the stocks to prevent their getting the start. These
duties should be fully considered before we take the re-
sponsibility of the care of bees.
The only time when we can rest and feel safe is when we
know that all our stocks are full of bees. Even the moth-
proof hive containing combs will be scented out by the
moth when there are no bees to guard it. An argument
to show that a moth can go where a bee can, is unneces-
sary, and a little observation will prove that her eggs
sometimes go where she is not allowed.
REMEDIES.
.
But as we cannot always have our bees in proper condi-
tion, it is well to adopt some of the means recommended
to diminish the number of moths. In July and August it
is a good plan to put a few pieces of old dry combs near
the hives, in a box or other place, as a decoy, where the
moth may have access. She will deposit a great many of
her eggs here, iastead of in the hive, and they can be
easily destroyed. Make it a rule to destroy all the worms
that can be found at any time, particularly in spring; like-
wise, all cocoons. A great many worms can be enticed to
web up under a trap of elder, when it is an easy matter to
dispatch them. Destroy all the moths that are seen about
the hive. They are very much like the flea, “when you
put your finger on him, he is not there;” a careful move.
must be made, else she darts away. Probably the most
+ Worms create much warinth of themselves,
Wax. 245
expeditious mode is to make them drunk. Mix with wa-
ter just enough molasses and vinegar to make it palatable ;
put it in saucers or other dishes, and set among the hives at
night. Like nobler, if not wiser beings, when once they
have tasted the fatal beverage, they seem to lose all power
to leave the fascinating cup; and give way to appetite and
excitement till a fatal step plunges them into destruction.
The next morning finds them yet wallowing in filth, weak
and feeble. Whether they would recover from the effects,
of their carousal, if lifted out of the mire, and carefully
nursed like other specimens of creation, I never ascertain-
ed. With but little trouble, a chicken or two can be
taught to be on hand, and will greedily devour every one.
Hundreds may be caught in this way, mixed with many
other kinds. I have thought that this liquid answered a
better purpose after it had fermented.
CHAPTER XVII.
WAX.
The unreflecting observer, seeing the bees enter the hive
with a pellet of pollen on each posterior leg, is very apt to
conclude that it must be material for comb, as it does not
resemble honey. There is so little thought on the subject
that they do not imagine any other use for it. Others
suppose that it will change to honey after being stored in
the hive a while, and wonder at the curious phenomenon,
but when asked how long a time must elapse before it
takes place, they cannot tell exactly, but they “have found
cells where it began to change, as a portion near the outer
end of the cell had become honey, and, no doubt, the re-
mainder would, in time.” This conclusion has doubtless
246 WAX.
arisen from the fact, that cells only about two-thirds full
of pollen, are often finished with honey.
WHAT Is IT?
Those who contend that combs are made of pollen,
would probably abandon the idea, after seeing the bees be-
longing to a hive filled to the last inch with comb, collect-
ing and bringing home just as much pollen as those belong-
ing to a hive half full. The question as to where the bee
gets wax to construct its combs, is very much like asking
where the cow gets her milk, or the ox his tallow. I be-
lieve all close observers agree that wax is a secretion nat-
ural only to the bee. Honey, and syrup made of sugar
are probably the only substances from which they secrete
it. From experiments with them, Huber has decided that
either of these substances, mixed with a little water, is all
sufficient for its production. From experiments of my
own, I am satisfied that he is correct, and that pollen is
unnecessary. The experiment may be tried by shutting
‘up a swarm when first hived, and feeding them with honey
only. A few of the bees will probably have some pollen,
though not enough to make a comb three inches square,
and to be certain, time must be given them to exhaust it.
In three or four days take out the bees, and remove the
combs ; enclose them again, and feed as before.
Repeat the process, until satisfied that no pollen is
needed in the composition of wax. Huber removed the
combs five times with the same result at every trial.
Whenever bees are confined in hot weather, air and water
are absolutely necessary.
HOW IT IS OBTAINED.
We will now describe the first appearance of wax and
how it is produced. When a swarm of bees is about
leaving the parent-stock, three-fourths or more of them will
WAX. 247
fill their sacs with honey. When located in their new
home, of course, no cells exist to hold it, and it must re-
main in the sac or stomach for several hours. The con-
sequence is, that thin white scales of wax, one sixteenth
of an inch in diameter, somewhat circular, are formed be-
, tween the rings of the abdomen, on the under side.
Fig. 30 shows the abdomen of the bee, enlarged,
with the scales of wax between the rings. With
the claws of one of their hind-legs, one of these
yY is detached and conveyed to the mouth, and then
Fig, 80, pinched with their forceps or teeth until one edge
becomes somewhat rough; it is then applied to the comb
being constructed, or to the roof of the hive. The first
rudiments of comb, are often to be seen within the first
half hour after the swarm is hived. Transferring the
swarms to other hives from one to forty-eight hours after
being hived, will show their progress.
COMMENCEMENT OF A COMB.
Ihave found that wax ‘is attached to the top of the hive,
at first, without the least order, until some of the blocks
or lumps are sufficiently advanced for them to begin cells.
The scales of wax are welded together, without regard to
the shape of the cell, then an excavation is made on one
side for the bottom of a cell, and two others on the oppo-
site side, the division between them being opposite the
centre of the first. When this piece of comb is an inch
or two in length, two other pieces, at nearly equal distan-
ces on each side, dre commenced. If the swarm is large
and honey abundant, it is common for two pieces of comb
to be started at one time, on different parts of the top;
the sheets in the two places are as often at right angles,
as parallel, or any other way just as chance directs them.
The little lumps that are deposited at random, at first, are
removed as they proceed.
248 WAX.
While the combs are in progress, the bases of the cells
near the edge are always kept much the thickest, and are
worked down to the proper thickness with their teeth, and
polished smooth as glass. The ends of the cells also, as
they lengthen them, will always be found much thicker
when finished, than any other part of them.
In the History of Insects, published by Harper, is a
minute account of the first foundation of combs, somewhat
amusing, if not instructive.
Huber, it is said, “having provided a hive with honey
and water, it was resorted to, in crowds, by bees, who hav-
ing satisfied their appetite, returned to the hive. They
formed festoons, remained motionless for twenty-four
hours, and after a time scales of wax appeared. An ade-
quate supply of wax for the construction of a comb, hay-
ing been elaborated, one of them disengaged itself from
the centre of the group, and clearing a space about an inch
in diameter, at the top of the hive, applied the pincers of
one of its legs to its side, detached a scale of wax, and
immediately began to mince it with the tongue. During
the operation, this organ was made to assume every varicty
of shape; sometimes it appeared like a trowel, then flat-
tened like a spatula, and at other times like a pencil, end-
ing ina point. The scale, moistered with a frothy liquid,
became glutinous, and was drawn out like a ribbon. This
bee then attached all the wax it could concoct to the vault
of the hive, and went its way. A second now succeeded,
and did the like; a third followed, but owing to some
blonder, did not put the wax in the same line with its pre-
decessor, upon which, another bee apparently sensible of
the defect, removed the displaced wax, and carrying it to
the former heap, deposited it there, exactly in the order
and direction pointed out.”—
Now, I have some criticisms to make on this account.
First, in the usual course of swarming, it is unnecessary
WAX, 249
to provide the honey and water, as they come laden with
honey from the-parent-hive. Next, to form festoons, and
remain motionless twenty-four hours to concoct the wax,
is not their custom. They either swallow the honey long
enough before leaving home, to have the wax ready, or
less time than twenty-four hours is necessary to produce it.
I have frequently found lumps, about the size of a pin-head,
attached toa branch of a tree where they had clustered,
when they had not been there over twenty-five minutes. I
have had occasion many times to change the swarm to an-
other tenement, an hour or two after they were hived, and
have found places on the top nearly covered with wax.
How he managed to see a bee “quit the group,” or to as-
certain that the tongue was the only instrument used in
moulding the scale of wax, is more than I can comprehend.
To witness the whole process in all its minutia, in this
stage of comb making has never been my good fortune,
and I am sometimes inclined to doubt the success of oth-
ers. I have had glass hives and put swarms in them, and
always found the first rudiments of comb so entirely cov-
ered with bees, as to be unable to see anything of the
operation. The only time when I have been able to wit-
ness the process, with any degree of satisfaction, has been
when the combs approached the glass and there were but
few bees in the way, then, with a httle patience, some part
of the process may be seen.
When two combs approach each other in the middle of
the hive at right angles or nearly so, they are not joined;
but when at an obtuse angle, the edges are generally
united, making a crooked sheet of comb. It is evident,
that where the two combs join, there must be some irregu-
lar cells, unfit for rearing brood.
250 WAX,
CROOKED COMBS,
Crooked combs do not seem to affect the prosperity of
the hive. Combs built in the Cross Bar or Movable Comb
Hive, are usually straight when the under side of each bar
is brought to an edge like a knife. But there are excep-
tions enough to almost annul the rule, in ordinary manage-
ment. It is found, however, that a smooth sharp edge is
followed much better than a rough one. Sometimes, after
combs are started straight, the bees will take some other
direction, and by the time the combs reach the bottom of
the hive, they may be at right angles with their course at
the top.
STRAIGHT COMBS.
I recently made the discovery, that if one end of the
hive was elevated 30°, straight combs would be the result
throughout, especially if the hive were perfectly level the
other way.
Sometimes there will be corners and spaces not wide
enough for two combs, and too wide for one of the proper
thickness for breeding. As bees generally use all their room
to the best advantage, a thick comb will be the result, and
when used for breeding, the cells are cut down to the
proper length.
QUANTITY OF HONEY TAKEN BY A SWARM.
A large swarm will probably carry some five or six
pounds of honey from the mother colony. It is impossible
to determine the exact amount as the weight of the bees
is very uncertain.
“T can tell you,” some one exclaims, “I saw some
weighed—so many weigh just eight ounces. Are you
sure that nothing else was weighed—no honey, bee-bread,
feces, or other substances? “‘Can’t say,—never thought
of that,” It is important, if we wish to know the weight
WAX, 25]
of bees alone, that we weigh nothing else. It is evident,
if a few thousand weigh three pounds, when nothing is in
their sacs, that they would weigh several pounds more,
when filled with honey. Hence, the fallacy of judging of
the size of a swarm by weight, as onc swarm might issue
with half as much honey as another. Perhaps eight pounds
would be a correct average for the weight of bees and ho-
ney, in large swarms. This honey whatever it amounts to,
cannot be stored, till combs are constructed to hold it.
This principle holds good till the hive is full. That is,
whenever they have more honey than the combs will hold,
and there is room, they will construct more comb. But
they seem to go no farther than this in comb-making.
However large the swarm may be, this compulsion appears
necessary to fill the hive,
MAKING DRONE CELLS.
Drone-cells are seldom made in the top of the hive, but
some are generally joined on the worker cells, a little dis-
tance from the top; others near the bottom. There seems
to be no rule about the number of such cells. Some hives
will contain twice as many as others. It may depend on
the yield of honey at the time; if plenty, more drone-cells,
and vice versa. It has been suggested that more drone-
cells are built while filling the hive, when the swarm has
an old queen. If the hive be very large, no doubt an un-
profitable number will be constructed. Where the large
and small cells join, there will be some of irregular shape;
some with four or five angles. Even where two combs of
cells, the same size, join, making a straight comb, they are
not always perfect.
SOME WAX WASTED.
When constructing comb, they are constantly wasting
wax, either accidentally or voluntarily. The next morning
252 WAX.
after a swarm is located, the scales may be found, and will
continue to increase as long as they are working it; the
quantity often amounts to a handful or more. It is the
best test of comb-making that I can give. Clean off the
board, and look the next morning, you will find the scales
in proportion to their progress. Some will be nearly
round as at first; others more or less worked up, and a
part like fine saw-dust.
WATER NECESSARY.
Whenever bees are engaged in making comb, a supply
of water is absolutely necessary. When no pond or
stream is within convenient distance, the apiarian will find
it economical to place water within their reach. As the
necessity for it always occurs in a busy season, it will save
much valuable time. It should be so situated, that the
bees may obtain it without danger; a barrel or pail has
sides so steep, that a great many will slip in and drown.
A trough made very shallow, with a broad strip around
the edge to afford an alighting place, should be provided.
It should contain a float, or a few shavings scattered in the
water, with a few small stones laid on them to keep them
from blowing away. A tin dish, an inch or two in depth,
will answer very well. The quantity needed, may be easily
ascertained ;—give them just enough, and change it daily.
I have no trouble of this kind, as there is a stream of wa-
ter within a few rods of my hives; but I have an oppor-
tunity to observe the number engaged in carrying it.
Thousands may be seen in June and August filling their
gacs, while a continuous stream of bees is on the wing,
going and returning.
CELLS UNIFORM IN SIZE.
The exact and uniform size of their cells is perhaps as
great a mystery as anything pertaining to bees; yet we
WAX. 2538
meet the second wonder before we are done with the first.
In building comb, they have no square and compass as
a guide; no master mechanic takes the lead, measuring
and marking for the workmen; each individual bee is a
finished mechanic! No time is lost in apprenticeship, no
service given in return for instruction. Each is accom-
plished from birth! What one begins, a dozen may unite
to finish! Each specimen of their work may be taken as
amodel! He, who arranged the Universe, was their in-
structor. Yes, a profound geometrician planned the first
cell, and knowing what would be their wants, implanted in
the sensorium of the first bee, an instinctive knowledge of
all things necessary to its welfare, which remains unim-
paired in its latest descendant.
They need no lectures on domestic economy to tell
them that the use of the base of one set of cells, on one
side of the comb, for the base of those on the opposite
side, will save both labor and wax; no mathematician,
that a pyramidal base, with just three angles, and just such
an inclination, is the exact shape needed, and will take
much less wax than if round or square—that the three-
angled base of one cell, forms a part of the base of three
other cells on the opposite side of the comb—that each of
the six sides of one cell, forms one side of six others—that
these angles and these only would answer the ends re-
quired.
“The bees appear,” says Reaumur, “ to have a problem
to solve, which would puzzle many a mathematician. A
quantity of matter, being given, it is required to form out
of it cells, which shall be equal and similar, and of a de-
terminate size, but the largest possible with relation to
the matter employed, while they shall occupy the least
possible space.”
How little does the epicure heed when feasting on the
fruits of their industry, that each morsel tasted, must de-
254 WAX. ‘
stroy the most perfect specimens of workmanship! That
in a moment he demolishes what it has taken hours, yes,
days and weeks of assidious toil and labor to accomplish.
MELTING OF COMBS.
When extreme hot weather occurs immediately after
the bees have been gathering from a plentiful harvest for
two or three weeks, or even during the yield, the wax
composing new combs is very liable to be softened, till
they break loose from their fastenings and settle to the
bottom. The first indications of such an accident, when
the hive is half or two-thirds full, are: clusters of bees on
the outside, and honey running out at the bottom.
Sometimes the injury is trifling, only a piece or two
slipping down; at other times the whole contents fall in a
confused and broken mass, the weight pressing out the
honey, and besmearing the bees, which, being thus soiled,
creep out and away from the hive in every direction.
I once had some stocks ruined, and others injured in
this way, by hot weather, about the first of September,
immediately after the buckwheat season. The bees, or
most of them, being covered with honey, together with
what ran out of the hive, at once attracted others to the
spot, who carried off the entire contents in a few hours.
This was an uncommon occurrence; I have known but
one season in twenty-five years, when it occurred after the
failure of honey from the flowers. It usually happens
during a copious yield, and then other bees are not apt to
be troublesome by robbing.
To prevent such mishaps, ventilate by raising the hives
on little blocks at the corners, and effectually protect them
Jrom the sun ; if necessary, wet the outside of the hive
with cold water. After the loss of those before mentioned,
I kept the rest of the new hives wet, through the mid-
dle of the day, and I have no donbt but that I saved sev-
WAX, 255
eral by the means. I had some trouble with those in
which only a piece or two had fallen, and started just
honey enough to attract robbers. It was not safe to close
the hive to exclude them, as this would have increased the
heat, and proved certain destruction.
The best protection I found was a few stems of asparagus
around the bottom of the hive ; this permitted a circulation
of air, and at the same time made it very difficult for the
robbers to approach the entrance, without creeping through
this hedge, and with this assistance the bees of the hive
defended themselves, till all wasting honey was taken up.
When the hive is nearly full, and but one or two sheets
come down, their lower edges will rest on the floor, and the
other combs will keep them in an upright position, until
fastened by the bees. It is generally best to leave such
pieces as they are. If the hive is but half full or little
more, and such pieces are not kept perpendicular by the
remaining combs, they are apt to be broken and crushed
badly, by falling so far, and most of the honey will be
wasted. To save this, it must be removed, unless it can
be caught ina dish. Be careful not to turn the hive on
its side, and thus break the remaining combs. Such combs
as contain brood and little honey, may be left for the brood
to mature. Should the bees be able to take up the honey
without much waste occurring, it would be advisable to
leave it; it would assist greatly in filling up. But these
broken pieces should be removed before they interfere
with the extension of the other combs. A part of the
bees is generally destroyed, but the majority will escape ;
even such as are covered with honey, if they are not
crushed, will clean it off, and soon be in working order,
when others do not too officiously assist in removing it.
An ample yield of honey is the best protection against this
disposition to pillage. After the first year, combs become
thicker, and are not so liable to give way.
256 PROPOLIS.
CHAPTER XVIII.
PROPOLIS.
, The origin of propolis is a subject upon which apiarians
fail to agree. It is asserted by some that, when the bees
need it, they always have it, and therefore they contend
that it is elaborated like wax; while others believe it to
be a resinous gum, exuding from certain trees, and col-
lected by the bees, in the same manner as pollen.
HOW OBTAINED.
Huber tells us that, “near the outlet of one of his hives
he placed some of the branches of the poplar, which exudes
a transparent garnet-colored juice. Several workers were
soon seen perched upon these branches; having detached
some of this resinous gum, they formed it into pellets, and
deposited them in the baskets of their thighs; thus loaded,
they flew to the hive, where some of their fellow-laborers
instantly came to assist them in detaching this viscid sub-
stance from their baskets.”
Iam convinced that it is a natural secretion of some
kinds of trees, as I have seen the bees collecting it, and
have frequently seen them enter the hive with what ap-
peared to be the pure article on their legs, resembling pol-
len, except that the surface is smooth and glossy. It is of
much lighter color when new, than it is after it gets a
little age.
HOW DISCHARGED.
I have also seen bees through the glass, when they
seemed unable to dislodge it themselves, and were contin.
ually running around among those engaged in soldering
PROPOLIS. ; 257
and plastering. When one required a little, it seized the
pellet with its forceps, and detached a portion, The whole
lump will not cleave off at once, but firmly adhere to the
leg, and from its tenacity, a string an inch long, will some-
times be formed in separating. The piece obtained is im-
mediately applied to their work, and the bee is ready to
supply another with a portion. It doubtless gets rid of
its whole load in this way, but it is difficult to watch the
whole process, as the bee is soon lost among its fellows.
The buds of many trees are protected from the ele-
ments, by a kind of gum or resinous coating. It may
be found in many species of Populus, particularly the
Balsam Poplar (Populus balsamifera) and the variety
(candicans) known as the Balm of Gilead. By boiling
the buds of these trees an aromatic gum or resin may be
obtained, the odor of which is very similar to that emitted
by propolis when first gathered by the bees, or when it is
heated afterwards,
This substance is used to solder up all the cracks, flaws,
and irregularities about the hive. A coat is spread over
the inside throughout; when the hive is full, and many
bees cluster outside the latter part of summer, they also
spread a coating there. A layer seems to be annually ap-
plied, as old hives are coated with a thickness proportion-
ate to their age, provided they have been occupied by a
strong family.
It differs materially from wax, being more tenacious,
and much harder, when old.
NEW SWARMS SOMETIMES USE WAX INSTEAD,
Our first swarms that issue in May or first of June, sel-
dom use much of the pure article for soldering and plaster-
ing, but use instead a composition, most of which is wax.
I have noticed at this season, when pieces of old hives
were left in the sun, that this old propolis would hecome
258 PROPOLIS.
soft, and that the bees would gather it, packing it on their
legs, the same as they do pollen. It is detached in small
particles, and the process of packing can be distinctly seen,
as the bee does not fly during the operation, as when pack-
ing pollen.
If you squeeze a piece of dry comb together, in a hot
day, making a compact ball, and leave it near the hives,
the Italians will carry it away in a short time; using it as
they do propolis.
MORE ABUNDANT IN AUGUST.
In August they use a hundred-fold more propolis than
in June, and at this time they manifest no disposition to
gather any from the old boards, etc. It would seem
that they prefer the new article which they now have in
abundance. Boxes filled in June, contain but very little,
sometimes none. But when filled in August, the corners,
and sometimes the top and sides are well lined. Cracks,
large enough for the bees to pass through, are sometimes
completely filled with it.
The reason of its being collected in greater abundance
at this season may perhaps be found in the fact, that the
buds of trees and shrubs are now generally formed.
So few bees are engaged in collecting it, that it is diffi-
cult to detect one in the act, but by persevering watchful-
ness, they may sometimes be seen, particularly in August.
This is but one of the many branches of apiarian sci-
ence, which are sadly neglected. So much error is min-
gled with the truth, that nothing but the most patient
scrutiny, and untiring investigation, can separate them.
TRANSFERRING. 259
CHAPTER XIX.
TRANSFERRING.
If there is no other object in transterring bees intended
to be kept in swarming hives, than simply to have them in
a situation to look at, it is of doubtful utility. But when
any other motives can be adduced, it will pay better. If
you wish to Italianize your bees, or to get them in such
condition that you can readily and safely make artificial
swarms, you probably cannot do better than to change a
part of them to movable comb-hives. It is not a very
formidable operation to transfer combs, brood, and honey,
as well as bees.
PREPARATION.
Prepare the frames without the triangular bar at the
top, as directed in the chapter on hives. A part of them
should have a second bar, one inch wide, by one-fourth
inch thick, some placed a little above, and others a little
Y below the centre.
For each frame
(3 zi you will want from
| two to four pairs
Fig. 31.—PIEcE USED TO STEADY THE comBs of thin narrow
IN TRANSPORTATION AND TRANSFERRING, strips—one-fourth
inch square will do. They should be just half an inch longer
than the height of the frames, projecting one-quarter Tach
above and below. Cut a small notch in each end to hold
a piece of twine, with which they are to be tied together.
TIME.
April is usually the best season. There is then the
least honey in the way, and not often much brood. Two
or three weeks after the first swarm, is also a good time.
260 TRANSFERRING.
It is practicable at any time, except in very cold weather,
The more honey and brood there are present, the more care
is required.
HOW TO DO IT.
‘When ready to operate, if the weather is cool, warm a
couple of empty hives, and choose, if possible, a strong
colony with straight combs. Take the hive from the yard,
and set one of the empty hives on the stand to catch any
bees returning from the field, if you operate when any are
flying, and proceed to drive out the bees as directed in
the chapter on pruning. After the bees are out of the
way, take the hive to a warm room and remove one side.
Have ready a wide board, on which are spread smoothly
several thicknesses of cloth, on which lay two or three
of your small strips; and having loosened a comb from its
fastening, lay it upon them. The yielding surface will pre-
vent the bruising of the combs. Now measure the comb
with the frame; if large enough to fill it, mark and trim
it off exactly to fit. If too small, take one of the frames
that has a partition through it; it will fit some of them.
When the frame is filled, whether with one piece or sever-
al, tie enough of the strips on each side to hold the comb
in place, and raise the frame to a perpendicular position.
I have used twine to wind around the frame and combs,
instead of fastening with wood, but do not like it as well.
These pieces of wood are also just what is needed to
steady the combs in full colonies, when they are to be
transported long distances.
KEEP BROOD TOGETHER.
When transferring combs containing brood, it will not
do to separate them,-—scattering it all through the hive—
unless in hot weather. In cool weather the bees must
keep it warm, which they cannot do unless it is all in one
261
TRANSFERRING.
262 TRANSFERRING.
place. Let the combs occupy the same relative position
that they did in the original hive.
CAUTION.
When all is arranged, if no bees are flying, set the new
hive on the floor in a dark room, with the front raised,
shake the bees down by it and they will readily enter.
The next morning, return it to the old stand. If bees are
at work and there is a scarcity of honey, get what bees
you have in the hive into which they were driven, to enter
the new hive, and as soon as they have licked up all the
dripping honey, which will take an hour or two, return them
to the stand, taking care that no honey is left on the out-
side of the hive to attract robbers. A very little might
excite plundering, and the transferred colony is in a bad
condition to repel such attacks.
It would be well to almost close the entrance, allowing
room for only one bee to pass at a time. If the colony
is a strong one and covers all the combs, they will weld all
the combs together wherever they touch each other, and
also where they come in contact with the frames, in avery
few days, when the frames may be taken out, and the
splints that held the combs in place, removed.
There will frequently be occasions when it is desirable
to transfer only the bees to a new hive, or to a hive with
empty combs. The combs, where the bees are, may be old,
or contain diseased brood. If it is only old, and is heakthy,
you need only to drive out the bees, and introduce imme-
diately. But should it be otherwise, as when the bees
have been wintered in diseased combs, with the intention
of transferring in early spring to hives containing combs
and honey, reserved for this purpose in the fall, it can be
done thus. First, drive the bees into an empty hive pre-
viously made warm. If all do not go in readily, break out
the combs and brush them in. A less number of bees will
SAGACITY OF BEES. 263
be wasted if you work in a dark room, and use a candle or
lamp. If preferred, there would be no harm done, if the bees
were first paralyzed: with Puff-ball, yet the combs might have
to be broken out to get the few bees sticking between them,
at this season-—spring—it is well to save every bee.
Keep them in the empty hive until the honey taken with
them from the diseased hive is consumed—thirty-six or
forty-eight hours. The hive to receive the bees perma-
nently, should be brought into a warm room several hours
previously. If bees are to be put into an empty hive, it
should be done in warm weather.
CHAPTER XX.
SAGACITY OF BEES.
On this subject I have but little to say, as I have failed
to discover any individual manifestations of shrewdness or
sagacity, that all swarms would not exhibit under similar
circumstances.
TOO MARVELOUS.
Writers, with a great love of the marvelous, are not
content with their astonishing displays of instinct, but
must add ashare of reason to their other faculties, and
profess to discover “an adaptation of means to ends that
reason alone can produce.” It is very true, that without
close inspection, and comparison of the conduct of differ-
ent swarms in similar cases, one might arrive at such a
conclusion. It is difficult, as all will admit, “to tell where
instinct, ends, and reason begins.” Instances of sagacity
like the following, have been recorded.
264 SAGACITY OF BEES.
INSTANCES OF SAGACITY.
““When the weather is warm, and the heat inside is
somewhat oppressive, a number of bees may be seen sta-
tioned around the entrance, vibrating their wings. Those
inside will turn their heads towards the passage, while
those outside will turn theirs the other way. A constant
agitation of the air is thus created, thereby ventilating the
hive more effectually.”
All populous stocks do this in hot weather.
Again. “A snail had entered the hive, and fixed itself
against the glass side. Being unable to penetrate it with
their stings, the cunning economists fixed it immovably by
merely cementing the edge of the orifice of the shell to
the glass with resin (propolis), and thus it became a
prisoner for life.”
Now, the same instinct that prompts the collection of
propolis in August to fill every crack, flaw, and inequality
about the hive, would use it to cement the edges of the
snail-shell to the glass, and a small stone, block of wood,
or any substance that they are unable to remove, is fastened
with it in the same manner. The lower edges of the hive,
when in close proximity to the bottom, are joined to it
with this substance. The stoppers of the holes in the top
are thus fixed in their places; and the published instance
of the unaccountable “ sagacity,” that once fastened close
a little door on the top of a hive, may be nothing more
than a result of this instinctive habit.
Other instances of “wonderful sagacity” will, I think,
also be found simply to be individual examples of their
common customs.
Whenever the combs in a hive have been broken, or
when they have been added, as mentioned in Fall Manage-
ment, the first act of the bees, is, to fasten them in their
present position. When the edges are near the side of the
hive, or two combs are in contact, a portion of wax is de-
SAGALITY OF BEES, 265
J
tached, and used for joining them together, or to the side.
Where two combs do not touch, and yet are close to-
gether, a small bar is constructed from one to the other,
preventing any nearer approach. This may be observed
by tipping the hive a few inches from the perpendicular,
after being filled with combs in warm weather, and per-
mitting it to remain thus for a few days.
Should nearly all the combs in the hive become detached
from any cause, and fall to the bottom in a mass of ruin,
their first steps are, as just described, to construct pillars
to keep them in the same shape. In warm weather they
will, in a few days, have made passages throughout every
part of the mass, by biting away the combs where they
are in contact. Little columns of wax below, support the
combs above, irregular to be sure, but as scientific as cir-
cumstances will permit. The whole will be firmly fastened
together, and not a single piece can be removed without
breaking it from the others.
NO PART OF THE HIVE INACCESSIBLE.
& piece of comb filled with honey, and sealed up, may
be put in a glass-box with the ends of these sealed cells,
touching the glass. The principle of allowing no part of
their tenement to be inaccessible, is soon manifested. They
immediately bite off the ends of the cells, remove the
honey that is in the way, and make a passage next to the
glass, leaving a few bars from it to the comb, to steady
and keep it in its position. A single sheet of comb lying
flat on the bottom-board of a populous swarm is cut away
on the under side, by passages in every direction, numer-
ous little pillars of wax being left for its support.
How any person in the habit of watching their proceed-
ings, with any degree of attention, could conclude that
the bees raised such comb by mechanical means, and then
put the props under for its support, is somewhat singular.
12
266 SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER.
These things are none the less wonderful, when consid-
ered as the result of instinct. Iam not sure but the dis-
play of wisdom is even greater than if the power of plan-
ning their own operations had been given them.
I have mentioned these examples to show that a course
of action induced by the peculiar situation of one family,
would be adopted by another in a similar emergency.
Were I engaged in a work of fiction, I might let fancy
reign, and endeavor to amuse, but this is not my object.
WE SHOULD BE CONTENT WITH FACTS,
Let us endeavor to be content with truth, and not mur-
mur that her marvels are no greater.
When we remember that the material for their combs is
formed in the rings of their own bodies, and that, untaught,
they detach it, and construct combs of the most beautiful
symmetry, and that unbidden they go forth to the field
to gather stores for the future use, we can but perceive
that throughout the whole cycle of their operations, one
law and one power governs, and whoever would seek that
directing power, must look beyond the sensorium of the
bee.
CHAPTER XXI.
SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER.
FIRST CARE,
When the flowers fail at the end of the season, it is ne-
cessary to ascertain which are the weakest stocks, and all
that cannot defend themselves should either be removed or
reinforced. The strength of all stocks is apt to be thor-
oughly tested within a few days after a failure of honey.
SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER, 207
Should any be found with too few bees for defence, they
are quite sure to be plundered. Hence the necessity of
inmediate action, that we may secure the contents in ad-
vance of the robbers.
STRONG COLONIES INCLINED TO ROB.
Strong stocks, that during a yield, have occupied every
eell with brood and honey, will, when it fails, soon have
cells left empty by the hatching of the young bees. The
want of honey to fill these empty cells, appears to bea
source of much uneasiness. Although such hives may be
well stored, I have ever found them much more disposed
to plunder, than weaker ones with but half the honey. As
very feeble families cannot be strengthened now, it is best
to remove them at once, and put temptation out of the
way. Carelessness is but a sorry excuse for allowing bees
.to establish this habit of dishonesty. Should any stocks
be weak from disease, the consequences would be even
more disastrous than bad habits. The reasons why such
impure honey should not go into thrifty stocks, have al-
ready been given. If we want the least possible trouble
with our bees, none but the best should be selected for
winter.
REQUISITES OF GOOD STOCKS,
But the requisites of a good stock, seem to be but par-
tially understood. Judging from the number lost annually,
too many bee-keepers are careless or ignorant in making
the selection. They seem to think that because a stock
‘has once been good, it will remain so. The condition of
bees is so changeable, especially in the summer and swarm-
ing season, that this idea should never be entertained.
We must know their present condition by actual examina:
tion.
The requisites of a good stock are, a hive of proper
268 SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER.
shape and size, (viz.: 2000 cubic inches) full of combs,
well stored with honey, a large family of bees, and freedom
from disease, which must be ascertained by actual ingpec-
tion. The age is not important, until they are ten years
old. Stocks possessing these essentials can be wintered
with but little trouble. But it cannot be expected that
all will be in this condition. Many bee-keepers wish to
increase their numbers and would like to keep all that they
can, practicably. Many deficiencies can be supplied, with
a little attention, and I shall endeavor to show that it is
profitable to do so until the number of bees kept is too
great for the supply of honey.
All can understand why it is a loss for bees to eat honey
part of the winter and then die—that the honey consumed
might have been saved, and that it makes no great differ-
ence to the bees, whether they are killed in the fall, or
starve in the winter. I am not an advocate for fire and
brimstone as the reward of all unfortunate stocks, and
shall recommend it only when it is unavoidable. We will
see how far it can be dispensed with.
DISADVANTAGE OF KILLING BEES.
Those rustic bee-keepers who are in the habit of making
their hives large enough to hold from 100 to 150 pounds,
killing the bees in the fall, and sending the honey to
market, will probably continue the use of sulphur, unless
we can convince them that it is far better to make the hive
smaller, and have ‘fifty or eighty pounds of this honey in
boxes, which will sell for more money, and at the same
time save their bees for stock hives. When the hives are
of the proper size, the honey is not equivalent in value to
the bees.
CAUSE OF POOR COLONIES VARIES IN DIFFERENT SECTIONS.
The particular deficiency of weak stocks depends some-
what on the section of country. Where the principal
SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER, 269
source of honey is Clover or Basswood, it will fail, parti-
ally at least, before the end of warm weather. Some poor
or medium stocks will continue to rear brood too exten-
sively for their means, and exhaust their winter stores in
consequence; such will need a supply of honey.
But where great quantities of Buckwheat are sown,
cool weather follows almost immediately after the yield,
and stops the breeding. Consequently, in such localities,
a scarcity of bees is more common than a lack of honey.
If there are bees enough at the 1st of September, there
will usually be plenty of honey. There are exceptional
cases in all localities.
It is common to have stocks with stores amply sufficient
to carry a good family through the winter, and too few
bees to last till January, or even to defend themselves
from robbers, hence bees are more frequently to be sup-
plied, than honey.
POOR STOCKS MAY BE UNITED.
It is usual to have a few hives with too little honey, as
well as too few bees. It is very plain, that if the bees of
one or more of this class were united successfully with
some of the former, we should have a respectable family.
LT have thus united stocks that proved first rate.
WHEN IT IS NOT BEST.
Whenever we make additions in this manner, it would
be well first to ascertain the cause of a scarcity of bees ;
if it is over-swarming, barren or drone queen, or Joss of
queen, it is well enough; but if it is from disease, re@ject
them, unless the bees are to be transferred the next spring,
and. erat then, if so many cells are occupied with dead
brood, that the bees cannot be successfully wintered. The
greatest difficulty i in uniting two or more families in this
manner, arises from their belonging in the same apiary,
270 SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER,
where they have marked the locations. It has been suffi-
ciently shown that bees will return to the old stand.
To prevent bad results, it has been recommended to
“set an empty hive with some pieces of comb fastened in
the top, in the place of the one removed, to catch the bees
that go back to the old stand, and remove them at night,
a few times, when they willremain.” This should be done
only when we caunot do better; it is considerable trouble,
and is not always satisfactory.
I like to bring them a mile or more for the purpose, and
thus avoid all such trouble. Two neighbors that distance
apart, each having stocks in this condition might exchange
bees, with mutual benefit. I have done so, and considered
myself well paid. But, latterly, I have several apiaries
away from home, and have no difficulty.
The practice of making one good stock out of two poor
ones cannot be too highly recommended. Aside from its
advantages, it relieves us from all disagreeable feelings in
regard to taking life.
TWO SWARMS UNITED, EAT LESS THAN WHEN SEPARATE.
Even when a stock already contains bees enough to in-
sure it for winter, another of the same number of bees
may be added, and they will not consume five pounds
more than one swarm would if kept alone. If they
should be wintered in the cold, the difference might not
be one pound. Why a larger number of bees does not
consume a proportionate quantity of honey, (which the
experience of others, as well as my own, has thoroughly
proved,) isa mystery. If the fact that a greater number
of bees generates more animal heat, and they therefore eat
less, is a solution, it is a powerful argument for keeping
bees warm in winter.
Notwithstanding this, a good stock is not made any bet-
ter by doubling the number of bees. I have tried the ex-
SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER. 271
periment thoroughly, and when they commenced work the
next spring, such double families promised much; but
when the swarming season arrived, good single swarms
were in the best condition. I am unable to give any satis-
factory reason for this. Stocks, which have cast no
swarms, are no better the following spring than others.
The same cause may operate in both cases. It therefore
appears unnecessary to unite two or more good swarms,
unless we are particularly sensitive about killing the bees.
SEASON TO OPERATE.
The usual season for operating is, when all brood has
matured and left the cells. The exceptions are where
there are not bees enough to protect the stores, in which
cases it may be necessary, immediately after the failure of
honey in the flowers.
PARALYZING THE BEE,
Col. H. K. Oliver, of Mass., has the credit of inventing
the fumigator, an instrument to burn Puffball. By the aid
of this, the smoke is blown into the hive, paralyzing the
bees in a few minutes. They fall to the bottom apparently
dead, but will recover in a few minutes, on receiving fresh
air.
DESCRIPTION OF FUMIGATOR.
The fumigator is made of a tin tube, four inches long
and two in diameter, with a stopper of soft wood, three
inches long, exactly fitting one end when driven in half an
inch, and secured by little nails driven through the tin.
Through the centre of this stopper there is a hole one-
fourth inch in diameter. To prevent this hole from filling
up, the end in the tube is covered with wire-cloth, bent a
little convex. The end of this stopper is cut down to about
half an inch, tapering from the tin. For the other end a
272 SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER.
similar piece of wood is fitted, though a little longer, and
not to be fastened, as it must be taken out at every opera-
tion. The outer end of this is cut down to a shape to be
taken into the mouth, or attached to the pipe of a pair of
bellows. It can be made wholly of tin, but then it is ne-
cessary to use solder, which is liable to melt and cause
leaks. The puff-balls must not be too much injured by re-
|
Sa
Fig. 33.—FUMIGATOR.
maining in the weather, and should be taken, if possible,
just before they are ripe and burst open. When not
thoroughly dry, put them in a warm oven. Remove the
rind carefully, ignite it with a live coal—it will not blaze—
‘blow it and get it thoroughly to burning before putting it
in the tube. Put in the stopper and blow through it; if it
smokes well, you are ready to proceed. When it does not
burn freely, uustop and shake it out.
HOW TO OPERATE.
Iuvert the hive to receive the bees, set the other over it,
and stop all crevices to prevent the escape of the smoke.
Insert the end of the fumigator into a hole in the side of the
hive, blow at the other end, and in two minutes you may
hear the bees begin to fall. Both hives should be smoked,
the upper one the most, The other only needs smoke
enough to make the bees similar in scent to those intro-
duced. At the end of eight or ten minutes, the upper
hive may be raised, and any bees sticking between the
combs, brushed down with a quill. The two queens are
of course together ; one will be destroyed, and no difficulty
arise. But if either of them is young, and you have been
convinced that such are more prolific, and happen to know
SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER. 273
which hive contains her, you can preserve her by a little
variation of the process.
Instead of inverting one hive, set them both on a cloth
right side up, and smoke the bees, and while they are par-
alyzed, search out and preserve the desired queen. Then
put the bees all together. Tie a thin cloth over the bottom
of the hive to prevent the escape of the bees. Before
they are fully recovered, they seem rather bewildered, and
some will get away. Set the hive right end up, and raise
it an inch; the bees drop on the cloth, and fresh air pass-
ing under soon revives them. In from twelve to twenty-
four hours they may be let out.*
Families united in this way will seldom quarrel, but will
remain together, defending themseves against intruders as
one swarm. I once had a stock nearly destitute of bees,
with abundant stores for wintering a large family. I had
let it down on the floor-board, and was on the lookout for
an attack. The other bees soon discovered their weakness
and commenced carrying off the honey. I had brought
home a swarm to reinforce them only the day before, and
immediately united them by means of the fumigator. The
next morning I let them out, allowing them to issue only
at the hole in the side of the hive. It was amusing to
witness the apparent consternation of the robbers that
were on hand for more plunder; they had been there only
the day before, and had been permitted to enter and de-
part unquestioned. But, lo! a change had transpired. In-
stead of finding open doors, and a free passage, the first
bee that touched the hive was seized, and very rudely
handled, and at last, dispatched with a sting. A few oth-
ers receiving similar treatment, they began to exercise a
* When a condemned colony is smothered in the old hive, so many of the
bees remain sti¢king among the combs, that it is very unpleasant work to re-
move the combs. It isbetter on the whole to drive out the bees in the beginning,
and the few remaining on the combs can be paralyzed, and will drop down with-
out difficulty.
12%
274 SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER.
little caution, and tried to find admittance on the back
side, and other places. They even attempted to enter one
or two other hives, on either side, perhaps thinking they
were mistaken in the hive, but these being strong, re-
pulsed them, and they finally gave it up.
HOW BEES WERE WINTERED AFTER A SCARCITY OF HONEY.
One season, some years ago, when I was anxious to in-
crease the number of my stocks to the utmost, I had none
but early swarms, with sufficient honey for winter. Twen-
ty-five pounds is required for winter stores in this section.
I had over thirty young swarms with less than that quan-
tity.
There was a large number of old colonies with diseased
brood, and but few bees, but sufficient honey. Such honey
is not deleterious to the old bees, hence I transferred the
bees of these new swarms, by paralyzing, to the old stocks
containing black comb and diseased brood. The bees
were thus wintered on honey of but. little account, and all
the honey that was in the healthy hives was saved. These
new hives were set in a cold dry place during winter,
right end up, to prevent the honey from dripping out of
the cells. Some will leak then, but not as much as when
the hive is bottom up. Honey that runs out, when the
hive is bottom up, will soak into the wood at the base of
the combs, and has a tendency to loosen them, and render
them liable to fall, etc. The bees should be returned to
the new hives the following March. For the method of
transferring see CHap. XIX.
ADVANTAGE OF TRANSFERRING.
When a good-sized family is put in a hive containing
fifteen or twenty pounds of honey, and nearly half full of
clean new comb, they are about as sure to fill up and cast
a swarm, as one that is full, and has wintered a colony.
SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER. 275
One cause of superior thrift may be found in the circum-
stance that all moth eggs and worms are frozen to death,
and the bees are not troubled with any worms before
June. No young bees have to be removed to work them
out, hence nearly every young bee that is fed and sealed
up, comes forth perfect, which makes a vast difference in
the increase. Any person wishing to increase the number
of his colonies to the utmost, will find this plan of saving
all partly filled hives, much more profitable than to break
out the honey for sale. Suppose you have an old stock
that needs pruning, and you have neglected it, or it has
refused to swarm, and you have had no opportunity to do
it, without destroying too much brood. You can let it be,
and put on the boxes—perhaps get twenty-five pounds of
cap honey—and then winter the bees in it as described,
and transfer them to the new combs in the spring.
Again, if there are no old or diseased stocks to be trans-
ferred in the spring, keep them until the swarming season.
If a swarm put into an empty hive would just fill it, the
same swarm put into one containing fifteen pounds of
honey, would evidently make that quantity of surplus.
The advantage is in the comparative value of box and hive
honey; the former being worth from thirty to a hundred
per cent.more. -
UNITING COMB, HONEY, AND BEES.
I have occasionally adopted another method of making
a good stock from two poor ones, which the reader may
prefer. When all the old stocks have been reinforced that
need it, and there are still some swarms with too few bees
and too little honey to winter safely in their present con-
dition, two or more can be united. The fact, which has
been sufficiently tested, that two families of bees, when
united and wintered in one hive, will consume but little,
if any more, than each would separately, has an import-
276 SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER.
ant bearing upon this case. If each family should have
fifteen pounds of honey, they would consume it all, and
probably starve at last—making a loss of thirty pounds.
But if the contents of both were in one hive, there would
be an abundance, with some to spare in the spring.
The process of uniting them is simple. Smoke both
of the hives, and then turn them over. Choose the one
with the straightest combs, or the one nearest full, to re-
ceive the contents of the other; trim off the ends of the
combs square across, and it is ready. Remove the sticks
from the other, and with your tools, take out the combs
with the bees on as before directed, one at a time, and
carefully set them on the edges of the other combs. If
the shape will admit, let the edges match, if not set them
crosswise. Bits of wood or rolls of paper should be put
between, to preserve the right distance. When both hives
are of one size, the transferred combs will exactly fit, if
you are careful to adjust them properly. You will now
want to know “ what is to prevent these combs from fall-
ing out when: the hive is turned over?” It is not to be
turned over, but is to remain bottom up in some dark
place for some time, or until spring. (See Wintering
Bees.) The bees. will immediately join the combs togeth-
er. The hive being inverted, the honey in these combs
will be consumed first, and when the hive is set out in
spring, it will be a rare occurrence for any pieces to drop
out. Should any combs project beyond the bottom of the
hive, they may be trimmed off even, after they are fast-
ened, before they are set out. An additional cross-stick
may pass under the bottom of the combs, to support them
if you desire. You will probably never discover any dif
ference in their subsequent prosperity in consequence of
the crossing of the combs in the middle. I have had them
thus, that were some of my most prosperous colonies.
As this operation need not be performed until Novem-
SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER. Q77
ber, there is still another advantage ; families of the same
apiary can be united, and will mostly forget the old loca-
tion by spring, hence no difficulty will arise when: they
are returned to their old stand.
In some sections, honey is more frequently wanting than
bees or comb; in such cases it is an advantage to feed,
until enough is stored for winter. This can be determined
by what the hive actually weighs when done. It is insuf-
ficient to simply weigh the honey that is fed.
WHEN IT IS BEST TO FEED.
It should be done in October, that the honey may be
sealed up before cold weather. If done before, too many
of the combs will be occupied with brood. Feed as fast
as possible, that they may not start too much brood.
But if they lack comb as well as honey, and you still
wish to try feeding, it should be done, if possible, in warm
weather, as they cannot make combs advantageously in
the cold.
Directions for feeding will be found in CHap, vir.
If your hives are not full, and are to be wintered in the
house, bottom up, they may be fed at any time during the
winter by merely laying pieces of comb containing honey,
on those in the hive. The bees readily remove the con-
tents into their own combs. When empty, replace them,
until they have a full supply. They will join such pieces
of comb to their own, but there will be no harm in break-
ing them loose. The principal objection to feeding in this
way, will be found in the tendency to make them uneasy
and disposed to leave the hive, when it is desirable to have
them as quiet as possible. A thin cloth will be necessary
to confine them to the hive.
With the movable combs, a great deal of the foregoing
trouble may be avoided. A large proportion of the colo-
nies will almost always store more honey than needed for
278 SELECTING COLONIES FOR WINTER.
winter, to an absolute disadvantage. The Italians are
quite sure to have an excess, in ordinary seasons. Seventy
pounds was quite a common surplus, in the summer of ’64,
There will be some late or small swarms, or some that
were divided too late to obtain sufficient winter stores.
By taking a comb or two from such heavy hives, and ex-
changing with the light ones, all are benefitted. The light
hives are made fit to winter, and the others are better off
because the bees can have room in the empty cells, to
pack themselves closely for mutual warmth in severe
weather.
When a season occurs like the summer of ’63 in this
section, when but few colonies have enough stores, a great
many only half enough, and some, still less,—unless it is
decided to feed all—some of the lightest may be taken up,
and the heaviest combs appropriated for the use of those
to be wintered. By attention through the winter and
spring, occasionally giving a comb containing three or four
pounds for an empty one, as they need, they can be win-
tered without any great deal of trouble.
I have now given directions to avoid killing any family
of bees worth saving. When such as need feeding have
been fed, and all weak colonies have been made strong by
additions, etc., but little more fall work is needed in the
apiary.
It is only when there are weak stocks unfit for winter in
any shape, that it is necessary to be on the look out every
warm day to prevent pillage.
STRAINING HONEY AND WAX. 279
CHAPTER XXII.
STRAINING HONEY AND WAX.
REMOVING COMBS.
The combs of the movable frame hive are so easily lifted
out, and removed from the frames, and the bees shaken
off, that it is quite unnecessary to give explicit directions
for removing the honey from such, for straining.
The most convenient method of removing combs from
the box hive is by taking off one of its sides, but if it is
properly nailed, this is apt to split the boards, and injure
it for subsequent use. With tools such as have been de-
scribed in Cuap. xi, it may be done very nicely without
injury to the hive. The chisel should have the bevel on
one side, like those used by carpenters. The flat side is
placed next the board of the hive and the bevel, crowded
by the combs, will follow it close the whole length; with
the other tool the combs are cut across the top, and read-
ily lifted out. If preferred, they may be cut across near
the centre, and half a sheet taken out at a time; this is
sometimes necessary on account of the cross-sticks.
Such combs as are taken from the middle, or the vicinity
of brood-cells are generally unfit for the table, and should
be strained.
METHOD OF STRAINING.
There are several methods of performing this operation.
One is, to mash the comb and put it in a bag, and hang it
over some vessel to catch the honey as it drains out. This
will do very well for small quantities in warm weather, or
in the fall before any of it is candied. Another method is
to put such combs in a colander, and set this over a pan in
a moderately hot oven. This will melt the combs, and the
.
280 STRAINING HONEY AND WAX.
honey and a portion of the wax will run out together.
The wax will rise to the top and cool in a cake. It is lia-
ble to burn and require care. Many prefer this process, as
there is less taste of bee-bread, no cells containing it being
disturbed ; but unless it is stirred, some of the honey will
not drain out. If desired, two qualities may be made.
Another way is to break the combs well in a colander and
allow the honey to drain out without much heat, and after-
wards skim the small particles of comb that rise, or pass
the honey through a cloth or piece of lace.
But for large quantities, it is well to have a special ar-
rangement. Make a box four inches high, and sixteen or
eighteen inches wide, by four feet in length, with a wire-
cloth bottom. Put legs under, to raise it to a convenient
height. Under the strainer, place a board same in width
and length, elevated at one end, to catch the honey and con-
duct it into some vessel. Break up the comb with the
hands, but do not stir it unnecessarily, or the bee-bread
will be mixed with the honey. The box may be filled
with this, and will hold one hundred pounds or more. The
honey as it first runs through, will contain particles of
comb, but if left to stand for a day or two, these will all
rise to the surface. Through a hole near the bottom, the
pure honey may be drawn off.
When you have obtained all that will readily drain out,
put the comb in a barrel or large box with a few holes in
the bottom. A large quantity will warm up of itself, and
another portion of honey will run out, of somewhat infe-
rior quality.
Should the weather be somewhat cool, it will become
thickened too quickly to run out well, when a press of
“some sort is of great advantage. Unless the weather is
warm, the bees should be removed only on the day the
comb is broken up.
STRAINING HON£Y AND WAX. 281
METHEGLIN AND VINEGAR.
When no more honey can be conveniently obtained, a
still further saving may be made, by covering the comb
with boiling water, stirring well and draining; when the
comb should be made into wax at once to prevent moulding.
The sweetened water should be boiled and skimmed
tll clear. If strong enough to raise a potato one-third
above the surface, it may be put away for metheglin,
which will be fit for use in twelve months, and improve
with age. By reducing it considerably, vinegar may be
made in the same manner as from other material.
FEEDING REFUSE HONEY.
There is still another method of saving the honey re-
maining in the comb after draining. Take a large movable
comb-hive—it would pay to make one on purpose with a
large number of frames—full of empty combs or frames.
Make a second hive without top or frames; cover the
bottom an inch thick with the refuse comb, and set the
first hive containing bees and combs over it. As the
bees have to work in comparatively cool weather, it is well
to make a strong swarm by uniting three or four condemned
colonies. They should not be allowed any queen to fill
the combs with brood, but may have a little brood to con-
tent them with the idea of raising one. In a few hours,
they will lick up several pounds, leaving the comb per-
fectly clean, when more may be added, and this process
continued till all the comb is clean. By this time they
may have fifty or one hundred pounds of beautiful honey.
If this honey is from hives that contained diseased
brood it would be best to secure it from the other bees ;
but if otherwise it would answer every purpose for win-
tering bees, and this swarm might remain. In this case,
it would be best to let them have a queen, by all means,
in order to have them build worker combs,
282 STRAINING HONEY AND WAX.
In warm weather, if a door or window leading to a
room where honey is exposed, is left open, the bees will
find their way in, during a scarcity of honey. Doors and
windows should be kept closed, allowing them no means
of entrance.
MAKING WAX.
Several methods have been adopted for separating the
wax. I have never been able to secure the whole. Some
recommend heating it in an oven, similarly to the method
of straining honey through the colander, but I have found
it to waste more than when melted with water. A bet-
ter way for small quantities, is to fill a coarse stout bag,
half full of refuse comb, with something to sink it, and
boil it ina kettle of water, pressing and turning it fre-
quently, till the wax ceases to rise.
QUANTITY WASTED.
When the bag is emptied, by squeezing a handful of
the contents, the particles of wax may be seen, and you
may judge of the quantity wasted.
LARGE QUANTITIES.
For large quantities the foregoing process is rather te-
dious. It can be facilitated by using two levers four or
five feet long, and about four inches wide, fastened to-
gether at the lower end by a strong hinge. The comb is
put into a kettle of boiling water, and will melt almost
immediately; it is then put into the bag, and taken be-
tween the levers, in some large vessel, and pressed. The
contents of the bag should be shaken and turned several
times during the process, and if need be, returned to the
boiling water, and then squeezed again. The wax with
a little water is now to be re-melted, and strained again
through finer cloth, into vessels that will mold it into the
STRAINING HONEY AND WAX. 283
desired shape. As the sediment settles to the bottom of
the wax, when melted, a portion may be dipped off nearly
pure without straining.
By adding an acid to the water in which the wax is
melted, it may be separated much more readily. A quart
of vinegar to a gallon of water, or a small spoonful of
nitric acid is sufficient. There may be a little less labor,
where it is available, in using a heavy press like one made
for cheese, with a hoop made of slats an inch wide and
one-fourth inch apart, firmly bound. The bag with
melted comb is put into this, and throughly pressed,
while boiling hot.
‘Wax may be bleached in the sun, in a short time, in
cool weather, but it must be in very thin flakes. It is
readily obtained in this shape by dipping a thin board or
shingle, thoroughly wet, into pure melted wax; enough
will adhere to make it the desired thickness, and will cool
instantly on being withdrawn. Draw a knife along the
edges, and it will readily cleave off. Exposed to the sun
in a window or on the snow, it will become perfectly
white, when it can be made into cakes for market, where
it commands a much higher price than the yellow.
I presume there are chemical processes by which this
result is obtained, but I am not familiar with them.
284 WINTERING BEES.
CHAPTER XXIII.
WINTERING BEES.
There is almost as much irreconcilable diversity of
opinion with respect to wintering bees as in the construc-
tion of hives.
DIFFERENT METHODS.
We are told to keep them warm, and to keep them
cold; to keep them in the sun and out of the sun; to
bury them in the ground; to put them in the cellar, in
the chamber, in the wood-house, and to do nothing with
them. Here are plans enough to drive the inexperienced
into despair. Yet I have no doubt but bees have occa-
sionally been successfully wintered by all these contra-
dictory methods. That some are superior to others,
needs no argument; but which are Jest, is our province
to inquire. Let us endeavor to investigate the subject
without prejudice.
We will first examine the condition of a stock left to
nature, without any care, and see if it affords us any
hints as to how we shall protect them. By close observa-
tion we shall probably discover that the oft-repeated as-
sertion, that bees will never freeze except when without
honey, has led to many errors in practice.
WARMTH FIRST REQUISITE.
Warmth being the first requisite, a family of bees
crowds together at the approach of cold weather, into a
compass corresponding to the degree of cold. Those on
the outside are somewhat stiffened with cold, while those
within, are as brisk and lively as in summer. In severe
weather, every bit of space within their circle is occupied;
WINTERING BEES, 285
even each cell not containing honey or pollen holds a
bee. Suppose this cluster is sufficiently compact for mu-
tual warmth, with the mercury at 40°, and it falls to zero
in a few hours, this body of bees, like most other things,
will speedily contract. Some bees on the outside, being
already chilled, do not keep up with the shrinking mass,
and being left exposed at a distance from their fellows,
receive but little benefit from the warmth of the cluster,
and are soon frozen,
.
SIZE OF COLONY.
A good colony will form a ball or sphere about eight
inches in diameter, generally about equal every way,
which must occupy the spaces between four or five combs.
As the combs separate them into divisions, the two outer
ones are the smallest and most exposed; these are often
found frozen to death in severe weather. Should evidence
be wanting to show that bees will freeze, the above seems
to furnish it.
Suppose a quart of bees to be put in a hive where all
the cells are lengthened out, and filled with honey, there
would be only one-fourth inch spaces between the combs,
leaving room for only one course of bees. The combs
are perhaps one and a half or two inches thick. These
single layers of bees could not of course keep themselves
properly warm. Although every bee would have food in
abundance without changing its position, the first severe
weather would probably destroy them all. But I admit
this to be a rather improbable condition.
PROMOTION OF WARMTH.
Their winter quarters are among the brood combs,
where the hatching of the brood leaves most of the cells
empty, and there is a half inch space between the combs;
a wise and »eautiful arrangement, as ten times as many
286 WINTERING BEES.
bees can pack themselves within a circle of six inches, as
‘in the other case, and in consequence, the same number
of becs can secure much more animal heat and endure
the cold much better. But a smadl family, even here,
will often be found frozen, as well as starving.
Besides freezing, there are some other facts to be ob-
served in connection with stocks that stand in the cold.
MOISTURE.
Physiologists teil us “that innumerable pores in the
cuticle of the human body, are continually throwing off
waste or worn-out matter; that every exhalation of air
carries with it a portion of water from the system, unper-
ceived in warm weather, but condensed into particles
large enough to be seen in a cold atmosphere.” Now, if
analogy be allowed here, we will say that the bee throws
off waste matter and water in the same way. Its food
being liquid, nearly all will be exhaled; this passes off
in moderate weather, but in cold it is condensed, and the
particles lodge on the comb and sides of the hive in the
form of frost, which accumulates as long as the weather is
very severe. In the middle of the day, or as soon as the
temperature is slightly raised, this begins to melt, first,
near the bees, then at the sides of the hive. A succession
of cold nights will prevent the evaporation of this mois-
ture, and this process of freezing and thawing, will at the
end of a week or two, form icicles as large as a man’s finger
upon the combs and interior of the hive. When the bot-
tom is close to the floor, it forms a perfectly air tight
sealing around the edges, and the colony is smothered. I
have frequently heard bee-kcepers say: ‘The snow blew
in, and formed ice all round the bottom, and my bees
froze to death.” Others who have had their bees ina
cold room, and found them thus, “could not see how the
water could get there, any way—were quite sure it was
not there when carried in, ete.”
WINTERING BEES. 287
When the hive contains a very large or a very small
family, there will be less frost on the combs; in the first
case the animal heat: will drive it off, and in the latter
there will be but little moisture exhaled to freeze.
CAUSES OF STARVATION.
This frost frequently causes medium sized families to
starve in cold weather, even when there is plenty of
honey in the hive. If all the honey in the immediate vi-
cinity of the bees is exhausted, and the combs in every
direction are covered with frost, a bee leaving the cluster,
and going among the combs for a supply would meet a
fate as certain as starvation. And without timely inter-
vention of warmer weather, all would perish.
Should ‘bees escape starvation, there is another ex-
igency often attending them in continued cold weather.
I have said that small families exhaled but little moisture.
Let us see if we can explain the effect in this case.
DYSENTERY.
Tn small stocks not enough heat is generated to exhale
the aqueous portions of the food. The philosophy that
explains why a man in warm blood, and profuse perspira-
tion, exhales more moisture than when in a quiet state,
will illustrate this. The bees under these circumstances
must retain the water as well as the excrementitious part,
which soon distends their bodies to an unendurable ex-
tent. Their cleanly habits, that ordinarily protect the
combs from being soiled, are not a sure protection now,
and they are compelled to leave the mass, very often in
the severest weather, to sie this unnatural accumula-
tion of fwces.
In a moderately warm aig more bees will issue from a
hive in this condition than from others. It would seem
that part of them are unable to. discharge their burden,
their waight prevents their flying, and they get down
288 WINTERING BEES,
and are lost. With the indications attendant upon such
losses, my own observation has made me somewhat fami-
liar, as the following will illustrate.
A neighbor wishing to purchase some stock hives in
the fall, requested my assistance in selecting them. We
applied to a perfect stranger whose bees had passed the
previous winter in the open air. I found on looking
among them, that he had lost some from the cause just
mentioned, as the excrement was yet about the entrance
of one old weather-beaten hive that was now occupied
by a young swarm, and was about half filled with combs.
I saw at once what had been the matter, and felt quite
confident that I could give its owner a correct history of
it. “Sir,” said I, “you were unfortunate with the bees
that were in this hive last winter ; I think I can give you
some particulars respecting it.”
“ Ah, what makes you think sé? I would like to hear
your ideas; I will admit that there has been something
peculiar about it.”
“One year ago, you considered it a good stock-hive,
it was well filled with honey, had 2 good family of bees,
and was at least two or three years old. You had confi-
dence that it would winter as well as any, but during the
cold weather, somehow, the bees unaccountably disap-
peared, leaving but a very few, and they were frozen to
death. You discovered it towards spring, on a warm
day. When you removed the combs, you probably no-
ticed a great many spots of excrement on them, as well
as on the sides of the hive, particularly near the entrance.
Also one-half or more of the breeding-cells contained
dead brood in a putrid state, and this summer you have
used the old hive for a new swarm.”
“You are right, sir, in every particular. Now, I would
like to know what gave you the idea that I had lost the
bees in that hive. I can see nothing peculiar about that
WINTERING BEES, 289
old hive, more than this one;” pointing to another that
also contained anew swarm. “You will greatly oblige
me if you will point out the signs particularly.”
I then directed his attention to the entrance in the side
of the hive; here the bees had discharged their excre-
ment on the moment of issuing, until it was near an
eighth of an inch thick, and two or three inches broad.
It yet remained, and had just begun to cleave off. “You
see this brown substance around the hole in the hive?”
“Yes, it is bee-glue, (propolis,) it is very common on
old hives.”
“T think not; if you will examine it closely, you will
perceive that it is not so hard and bright; it already be-
gins to cram Play endl bee-glue is not affected by the
weather for years.”
“Just so, but what is it, and what has that to do with
your guess-work?”
“Tt is the excrement of the bees. In consequence of
many cells containing dead brood, the bees could not
enter them, and they were unable to pack themselves
closely enough to secure the animal heat requisite to drive
off the water in their food, and it was therefore retained
in their bodies, till they were distended beyond endu-
rance. They were unable to wait for a warm day, and
necessity compelled them to issue daily during the cold-
est weather, discharging their feces the moment of pass-
ing the entrance, and sometimes, before, upon the combs.
They were immediately chilled and could not return; the
quantity left about the entrance shows that a great many
must have come out. That they came out in cold weather
is proved by its being left on the hive, because in warm
weather they leave the hive for this purpose. The cluster
inside was in this way so reduced that they were un-
able to keep from freezing.”
“This isa new idea; at present it seems very probable;
13
290 WINTERING BEES.
I will think of it. But how did you know that it was an
old hive, and that it was well filled?”
“When looking under it just now, I saw that combs
of a dark color had been attached to the sides near the
bottom, below where those are at present; this indicates
that it had been full; and the dark color shows that the
combs were old. Also, a swarm early and large enough
to fill such a hive the first season, would not be very
likely to be affected by the cold in this way.”
“Why not? I think this hive was crowded with bees
as much as any of my new swarms.”
“T have no doubt that it appeared so; but we are very
liable to be deceived by dead brood in the combs. A
medium-sized family will make more show in such a hive,
than a larger one that have empty cells to creep into, and
can pack more closely.”
“But how did you know about the dead brood?”
“ Because old stocks are often thus reduced and lost.”
“What were the indications of its having been filled
with honey?” e
“Combs are seldom attached to the side of the hive
farther down than they are filled with honey. In this
hive the combs had extended to the bottom, consequently
must have been full; also, unless a colony is very much
reduced, the hive is generally well stored, even when
diseased.”
“Why did you suppose it was near spring before I dis-
covered it?”
“T euessed at that. The majority of bee-keepers are
rather careless, you know, and when they have arranged
their bees for winter, seldom give them much more atten-
tion, till they begin to fly. out in spring.”
“But what should I have done had I discovered the
bees coming out?”
“ As it was affected with dead brood, you could have
WINTERING BEES. 291
done but little; you would have lost it eventually. But
had it been a colony otherwise healthy, and was thus af-
fected only because it was small, or by the severity of
the weather, you could have taken it to a warm room,
and turned it bottom up, or given it abundant upward
ventilation, and the heat would have converted most of
the water contained in their food, into vapor. This
would rise from the hive, and the bees could retain the
excrementitious portion without difficulty till spring.”
“T suppose you must get along without losing many
through the winter, if I may judge from your confident
explanations.”
“T can assure you I have but little fear on this point.
If I can have the privilege of selecting suitable stocks, I
will engage to not lose one in a hundred.”
“How do you manage? I would be glad to obtain a
method with which I ‘could feel as perfectly safe as you
appear to.”
“The first requisite is to have none but good hives. I
unite weak families until they become strong,.or make
some other disposition of them.” I then gave him an
outline of my usual method of housing bees, which I can
confidently recommend to the reader.
This accumulation of feces is considered by many
writers as a disease—a kind of dysentery. It-is described
as affecting them towards spring, and several remedies
are given. If what I have been describing is not the
dysentery, I have never had a case of it; but I think it
is the same, and that inattention must be fhe: reason that
many do not discover it in-cold weather, at the time that
it occurs. Some stocks may be badly affected, yet not
entirely lost, and moderate weather may arrest its pro-
gress. When a remedy is applied in spring, long after
the cause ceases to operate, it would be singular if it
were not effectual. I haveno doubt but some have taken
292 WINTERING BEES.
the natural discharge of feces that always takes place in
spring, when the bees first leave the hive, for a disease.
Others, looking for a cause for diseased brood, and find-
ing the hive and combs somewhat besmeared, have as-
signed this as sufficient; but according to my view, have
reversed it, giving the effect for the cause.
There is some reason to suppose that moisture on
the combs gradually mixes with the honey, making it
thin, and that the bees will be affected as described, by
eating so much water with their food. But some experi-
ments have induced me to assign cold as an additional
cause, as I have always found, when I put the hives where
it was sufficiently warm, that an immediate cure was the
result, or, at least, it enabled the bees to retain the excre-
ment till set out in the spring.
WATER.
Much has been said recently, about furnishing bees with
water during the winter, but the reasons for feeding it,
and the results are so conflicting, that we have but little
reliable evidence on the subject. My experience does
not show that it is very efficacious when given as a pre-
ventive of dysentery, or necessary in rearing brood while
housed. .
After taking so much trouble to get rid of moisture,
Iam not disposed to recommend giving any more of it.
I may be prejudiced and not qualified to judge, in conse-
quence, It is also strongly urged that it is required when
bees are rearing brood, and that they will speedily perish
when deprived of it, from being shut up in the house—
especially if they have candied honey.* I cannot even
*Mr. Harbison says: “I have had bees confined for a period of forty-eight
days, about one-third of which time they were ina warm latitude, in transit to
California ; not a single drop of water did they get during all that time, and yet
they reared and matured brood on the way, and it was found in some strong
WINTERING BEES. 293
understand the force or pertinency of the reasoning.
How candied honey can make any difference when the
bees do not eat it at all, Iam unable to perceive. When
a portion of honey is candied in the cells, the bees eat
only that which is liquid, rejecting the rest; would they
do more than take the liquid portion, were it all in that
state? I doubt if there any disadvantages incident to
the use of candied honey further than the waste. When
the weather is warm enough, or the bees have increased
enough to generate sufficient heat, it all liquifies—the
bees eat it, and no harm arises. I think it quite likely
that avery dry atmosphere would be detrimental to a
colony of bees, as it is unnatural. It is probably best to
avoid all extremes.
colonies, in all stages from the egg to those just emerging from the cel!s, on their
arrival at Sacramento.”
Mr, Harbison publishes a letter in his work, applying directly to this subject.
St. Jounsvintur, N. Y., January 4, 1860.
Mr. Harsrson, Dear Sir.—In regard to the necessity of giving bees water
during winter, I cannot say at present that my views are in accordance with
those set forth by Mr. Langstroth on pages 342, 343, and 346 of his last edition.
I fear that his remarks, and the translation from the German, by Mr. Wagner,
will give very many inexperienced bee-keepers much unnecessary trouble. A
constant supervision is indicated as necessary to safely take the bees through the
winter. I do not remember as any plan was given to keep up a supply without
attention. As a dearth of water is represented as the cause of much loss, of
course those who take this theory for fact and expect success, must have some
trouble to provide for these wants.
Not dreaming that water was essential to the health of bees in winter, I have
for the last twenty-five years used my utmost endeavors to get rid of a2 moisture
about the hive, and I have succeeded as effectually as any one. When put in
the house, I open the holes in the top of the hive, and then invert it on sticks ;
aconstant circulation of air through the hive carries with it all the moisture
generated, the combs remain perfectly dry, and as far as I can discover, the’
bees are perfectly healthy. Instead of meeting a general loss with this method,
Thave wintered hundreds of stocks with a loss of less than two per cent. ‘Why
others, who take no pains comparatively, to ventilale, should suffer so much
more loss than I do, I cannot comprehend ;—that is, with this theory.
Many years ago, I became fully satisfied that the loss of nine-tenths of all the
good colonies in winter, was a direct consequence of confining this moisture to
the hive. The experience of every subsequent year gives additional evidence
in favor of this idea.
Respecting the par cles of candied honey found on the bottom-board, as in-
294 WINTERING BEES.
NATIVES OF WARM CLIMATE.
Bees being natives of a warm climate, need some as-
sistance in maintaining a healthy condition throughout
the winter. Let us see if we cannot keep them warm,
save the bees, economize honey, and at the same time get
rid of the excess of moisture. A large family expels it
much better than a small one.
WARM ROOM.
When a large number of colonies is put together in a
close room, the animal heat, from all combined, is an ad-
vantage—to the weak ones, at least. Yet the moisture
is condensed in large drops, and can be seen on the sides
of a glass hive, This excess of moisture is quite certain
to mold the combs, and must be disposed of. Ample
vents can be opened on the top, or the hive inverted.
Any one can see that while the vapor is warm from the
bees, it will all pass off, or so much of it, that the combs
dicating suffering for water, mentioned by Mr. Langstroth, I have been unable
to arrive at a similar conclusion, because whenever the room in which they
were wintered, was cold enough to candy the honey, I have invariably found the
greater part of it, after the bees were set out and when they had abundant op
portunity to get water. These particles may be seen at any time during spring,
when the bees do not obtain sufficient honey from the flowers, for themselves
and brood, and are necessitated to draw on their old stores. This seems very
plain without the theory of need of water as may be readily seen. In each cell,
only a part of the honey candies ; the bees can swallow only the liquid portion,
and must reject the other; this may be the case, although they fly out daily.
When the temperature of the hive becomes sufficiently warm to liquify this,
it is no longer to be found.
I rather suspect that Mr. Langstroth has depended very much on the testi-
mony of others in this matter of wintering bees. In his first edition of the
‘Hive and Honey Bee” in 1853, he recommended what he called a “‘ protector”
as very important. In his second edition he abandoned that plan, as not likely
to pay, and suggested “special depositories.” To show the advantages of this
method, he quoted Dzierzon, and several pages from me explaining the manner
of getting rid of this water. . And now two or three years later, he supposes wa-
ter is-absolutely essential. In all our rural affairs there is no branch where
there are more conflicting theories than in bee-culture, especially wintering
them. No one can be sure, till he makes a few experiments of his own.
Your’s Truly,
: M. QUINBY.
WINTERING BEES. 295
will not mold. At the same time enough is diffused
throughout the atmosphere of the room, to answer all the
requirements of the bees. Tiwenty years experience has
proved this principle correct.
One hundred colonies in any kind of wooden hives,
cannot be wintered more safely and economically, than in
a warm room. What I mean by economically, is, with
the least consumption of honey. The room should be
large enough to conveniently contain the number of
hives to be wintered.
A small one in the dwelling house, or some out-build-
ing, or a warm dry cellar may be used. I have wintered
them in all these places, and prefer the latter.
J
CELLAR PREFERRED,
If I were now to construct a room for this particular
purpose, and could have just what I wanted, it would not
differ materially from one I now use. It is a cellar under
a barn ona side hill, where the ground descends just
enough to make the entrance level with the floor, size
20 x 30, with the hay-mow directly over it. Ten feet from
the back end there is a partition, and two feet forward
of that, another, enclosing a dead-air space, which will
prevent all sudden changes of outside temperature from
being felt within. Several days of warm or of very cold
weather, will occur, before the difference is noticed by
the bees. The walls are simply plastered, but should be
laid in lime mortar to keep out rats and micé, The bottom
is cemented thoroughly, and the top lathed and plastered.
A tube four inches square is put in on one side near the
bottom, for the admission of air, and another at the top,
for its exit, both covered with wire-cloth to exclude
vermin. A slide should be inserted in these tubes to re-
gulate the supply of air.
Around the sides of such a room, arrange shelves at
296 WINTERING BEES.
proper distances, one above another, upon which to set
the hives. If the cellar is very dry, some hives may be
set on a board on the floor.
The bees should be allowed the benefit of flying out on
all warm days at the end of the season, and should not
be put into winter quarters until winter is positively at
hand. Also, it is much better to remove them on a cool
than on a warm day. It is an advantage, but not all-im-
portant, that each hive occupies its old stand when set
out in the spring. To this end, they should be numbered,
and when brought out, they can be placed where they
are to remain.
HOUSING.
If the box hives are to be housed, piace sticks an inch
square (readily made by splitting a board of the right
length), upon the shelves, and set the hives upon them,
either inverted, or with ample ventilation at the top.
When the combs can be vertical, the best position is on
the side. When all the permanent shelves are full, put
in temporary ones until one hundred hives are deposited,
which are as many as should be kept in one apartment.
The movable comb hives should be set on sticks about
half as ‘large. But few of the holes need be open in the
honey board, for ventilation, as the air can pass over the
top of all the frames. When over one hundred are put
in one room, they are apt to make the air too warm, in
consequence of which the bees become uneasy, and some
get out and are lost. If the least ray of light is admitted,
they will go to it, and lose their hive. A small number—less
than thirty hives—will not keep up the requisite warmth,
and there is more need of confining the animal heat
to each hive; this retains more of the moisture. It is
better to reduce. the size of the room in proportion to the
number. A few in a large room will not do as well, as
WINTERING BEES. 207
in one just large enough to hold them. They should be
examined occasionally throughout the winter to see that
all is right, but disturbed as little as possible. Perhaps
when very cold, less air will be needed, than when moder-
ate. Towards spring, they are less quiet, and you should
take advantage of the first warm days after the middle
of March to get a part of them out, so that the remainder
will keep the temperature about the same as before.
SETTING OUT.
No matter if the snow is not all gone, if it has a crust
and the day is warm, a bee will rise from it, just as well.
as from the bare earth. Eight or ten hives should be set
out at once; after they have been out two or three hours,
set out as many more. When all are taken out at one
time, they are quite sure to mix, and unite with colonies
where they do not belong. They are more particularly
disposed to do so, when any stands have been changed
or set in a strange place.
While the usual difficulty is to select a day datiicionily
warm, it is possible, as the season advances, for it to be
too warm. When the hive is first set out, the bees are in-
tent only on getting out tofly. Those that have been out,
are now on the lookout for plunder, and rush into the
hives recently set out, and carry off the honey, before
there is any guard established to defend it. When such
days occur, the bees should not be taken from the cellar. .
Should some hives, after all precautions, get more
than their share of bees, while others are proportion-
ally deficient, the best way is to simply ‘change the
hives, talang: the strong one to the stand of the
weak one, and the reverse. Take care that too many
do not leave the strong hive and join the other,
as will occasionally happen, in which case it will
be necessary to return each to its own stand. Be-
13*
298 WINTERING BEES,
fore making the exchange, ascertain if the weak one is
not queenless.
If it be impossible to build such a cellar as the fore-
going, one partially as good, is better than the open air
for wood hives, It should be near the apiary, and if no
side hill is within convenient distance, it may be made
on the level, excavating for one half the depth of the
room, if dry enough; or if not, make a room above
ground. But it will require much more expense and
trouble to make it answer as well as acellar. The dif
ficulty is in a lack of uniformity in the temperature,
rather than in the inability to make it warm enough.
A few days of warm weather outside, will make bees
uncomfortably warm within, and many will be wasted.
To confine them to the hive does not avail much, as they
will continue their endeavors to get out, until they worry
themselves to death. Towards spring, this difficulty in-
creases. A few bushels of snow or pounded ice laid on
the floor, will do much towards keeping them quiet, till
the time to set them out. A room, even above ground,
should be made to obviate this difficulty in a great degree.
A BUILDING FOR THE PURPOSE.
Put up the frame of the desired size, board it inside
and out, leaving a space of ten or twelve inches between,
to be filled with some non-conductor of heat, such as saw-
qust or spent tan-bark. Then enclose this with another
frame, leaving two feet on every side for a dead-air space
in which, if necessary, snow or ice may be packed, which
will have a tendency to keep the temperature more uni-
form, The inside can be arranged as already described.
ROOM IN THE DWELLING HOUSE.
Rather than the wooden hive should stand in the open
air, I would appropriate some small room in the house;
’
WINTERING BEES. 299
make it dark, and secure as even a temperature as possible,
Some bees will be wasted, yet not as many as on the stand,
BURYING BEES.
The conditions under which it is advisable to bury
them, are sometimes found. A dry sandy soil is best.
The pit should be dug where there is perfect drainage,
and the hives should be surrounded on every side with
straw, enough to absorb all the moisture from the bees,
if not very much of that from the ground. The hive
should be inverted, or laid on the side. As the bees
produce some heat, it is not necessary to bury quite as
deep as would keep potatoes from freezing. It is not ad-
visable to put a great many in one pit, as there would be
too much heat; also it would be necessary to take them
all out at one time, very expeditiously, and the difficulty
of their mixing, would be encountered. Make several
pits, if a large number is to be wintered in this way.
The labor is but little more, and there are certainly
several advantages. A very few would winter better in a
pit than inaroom orcellar. In the first case they can be
covered with earth, till properly warm, but in the other,
they must keep themselves warm.
One object in protecting bees, is to save honey. The
colder they are, the more they consume. The horse or
ox consumes his food to replace the warmth that is
thrown off on the cold air. The quantity seems to be re-
gulated by the degree of cold; they refuse a portion of
tempting provender in the warm days of. spring, and
greedily. devour large quantities in the pelting storm.
The farmer houses his cattle in winter on the score of
economy. The same consideration should prevail with
reference to his bees.
300 WINTERING BEES.
STRAW HIVES.
There are some bee-keepers who from some cause, can-
not be induced to make a room or cellar available, and
others who prefer to leave them on their summer stands.
To such I would recommend the straw hive.
Not old fashioned conical shaped hives; although the
objection to it, is simply the want of adaptation to im-
proved bee-culture. We have all heard of the great
success in wintering in “the old-fashioned straw hive,”
fifty or a hundred years ago. They were discarded, it is
said on account of harboring the moth-worm, and in-
convenience. Mr. Langstroth says: “Straw hives are
warm in winter and cool in summer ;” and again, “ Hives
made of wood are at the present time fast superseding
all others.” Notwithstanding this, I shall err greatly in
my judgment if straw as a material for hives, does not
in a great measure regain its former position in public
vor. We now have straw hives of convenient shape,
some of them covered by a patent, but that is chiefly on
the manner of holding the straw. The proper degrees
of heat and cold when most desirable, are great ad-
vantages, and can be obtained on principles long ago
recognized.
PHILOSOPHY.
It is found that solid bodies are much better conductors
of heat than porous ones. ‘To illustrate: put on a
rubber coat, or a woolen one, one impervious to air and
water, the other freely admitting both; one conducts
away the heat and retains the moisture, while the other
retains the warmth, and allows the insensible perspira-
.tion to leave the body. A linen or cotton garment is a
much better conductor of heat, than one made of wool.
Perhaps this is owing to the fact that the fibres lie more
compactly.
WINTERING BEES. 301
Air is a poor conductor of heat. We readily succeed
in warming a room, but it is when the heated air can
move from the fire, forming a current, and is replaced by
cold air to become heated in turn. But confine the air
in what we call a dead-air space, as is done in the walls
of a house, or, if you please, within the interstices of a
woolen fabric, and the heat passes off very slowly. I
can readily conceive that straw, the leaves of the cat-tail
flag, or broom-corn stalks, used as a material for bee-
hives would act similarly as a non-conductor of heat, the
thousands of tiny air-cells, being so many dead-air spaces
to prevent the escape of the heat, and permit the passage
of moisture. I speak semiparasively, for some warmth
will of course escape, but not so much by far as when a
wood hive is properly ventilated.
It is thus apparent that a wood hive thoroughly water-
soaked would conduct away the heat far more rapidly
than when perfectly dry. In the one case the pores of
the wood are filled with water, thus becoming a good
conductor like a wet garment; in the other the pores are
occupied with air, and the heat leavesslowly. The more
numerous the air-cells, the slower it will pass. Hives
made with double walls of boards, enclosing a dead-air
space, do very well in regard to warmth, but do not dis- _
pose of the moisture with sufficient rapidity.
The moisture must be got rid of, and in no way can it
be done so well, as by straining it through straw. Be-
. Side being advantageous for wintering, straw hives are
superior in keeping the temperature warmer, and more
uniform, throughout the spring, thus promoting early
breeding and swarming. After the beginning of summer
they do not seem to possess any special advantage over
wood hives, further than that their combs are less liable
to melt down. But the objection first raised by most
persons—the harbor for the moth-worm—has not arisen
302 WINTERING BEES.
in my experience. Out of a large number containing
bees through the summer, not one has ever been injured
in this way. However, I think it better economy to
change the combs, bees, etc., to the wood hive for the
summer, and back again in December. A straw hive will
decay faster during use in summer, than in winter. Also
it will receive a coating of propolis during July and
August, that will render it less efficient in ridding it-
self of moisture. I say Jess efficient, because it is better
than wood, at any rate.*
The top must certainly be removed to give place to the
surplus boxes, and should be kept in the best possible
condition for receiving the moisture, when used again the
following winter. The top is much more important than
the sides, and if the latter should become impervious to
moisture and air, the bees would be warm enough to
enable the top to absorb all the moisture before it would
freeze. The operation of transferring from wood to straw
hives may be performed at any time from October to
January. The first cold snap in December is a suitable
time.
Take the bees to a somewhat darkened room to prevent
them from flying. Let the combs occupy the same re-
lative position in the straw hive as in the other. Each
comb, when lifted out, should have made in it a passage
for the bees, three-fourths of an inch in diameter. It can
be made in a moment with a knife, and is often important
as a means by which the bees can pass from one comb to
another, when in need of honey, and also to allow the
queen to pass to different combs to deposit eggs, when
the weather is not mild enough to permit her to go around
the edges.
* Propolis can be removed from a hive if desired, by scalding, or crumbling,
by striking or rubbing when very cold. Transferring the bees to some other
hive mw eanwhile.
WINTERING BEES. 803
I like this method better than the coiled shaving re-
commended by Mr. Langstroth, because that cannot al-
ways be in the place most convenient for the bees. It is
frequently in the midst of sealed honey.
The condition of the bees may be ascertained at any
time by simply raising the top mat. As the hives sit
near the earth, the snow may be allowed to drift around
them. Should warm days occur before the snow is gone,
when it is suitable for the bees to fly, it is not important
to shovel it away from the entrance to allow them to
issue. Remove the roof and slide the mat back a few
inches; the bees will fly off and return without hin-
drance.
The walls of these hives are not as quickly warmed
through by the rays of a winter’s sun, as those of wood.
Not until the whole surrounding air is mild enough for
them to issue safely, do they become aroused, and desire
to come out, and then it is usually safe to allow it.
STRAW TOP.
There are some apiarians who are unable to have the
best and most profitable hive, and yet wish to winter
their bees in the open air.
Perhaps a few such persons may be induced to make
a hive that will admit of a straw top for winter. It
would cost but little more to make a mat of straw, or
flags, or even corn-cobs, to just suit the top of the hive.
Put bars or slats across the top to support the combs.
The top board used in summer, may be held by screws,
and is easily removed when desired. Such mat will ab-
sorb, nearly, if not quite all of the moisture, and the bees
are in much better condition in consequence.
I will make some further suggestions to those who use
the box hive, and have decided to take the chances of
wintering on the summer stand with the least trouble.
~
304 WINTERING BEES.
SIMPLE BOX.
Entire success can attend those only who select none
but the best stocks for winter, and secure for them the
following conditions.
They must have air at all times and must be kept from
freezing. The first condition will secure the last. If the
bottom of the hive rests on the board, and there are but
small openings at the bottom, and none at the top, all
the moisture condenses on the combs and sides of the
hives. A warm day melts it, and every thing in the hive
is wet. Sudden severe weather freezes all solid. In this
way, even strong, heavy stocks are lost. A special vent
should be opened at the top to correspond with the
bottom. <A current of air passing through, will carry
off the surplus moisture, and keep the combs compar-
atively dry, but a great deal of the heat that would be
beneficial to the bees will go with it. This moisture is
received in the cover of the honey boxes, which may,
with benefit, be filled with hay, straw, or cobs to ab-
sorb it.
If the hive has no upward ventilation it should be
raised at least an inch from the board, to give all pos-
sible circulation below; it will keep the lower ends of
the combs dry, at least; but the upper ends may be a
little frosty and moldy.
MICE,
To prevent the depredations of the mice when so raised,
a strip of wire-cloth, a little more than an inch wide,
surrounding the hive at the bottom, and held in place by
a few tacks, will be effectual. The hole in the side should
be covered with the same. It should be so put on in
both places, that the bees may have room to pass at one
edge. When thus guarded, the hives may remain under
a snow drift for months, without danger from mice,
WINTERING BEES. 305
smothering, or freezing. Indeed, bees could hardly spend
the winter in a more desirable situation. In a few hours
after the snow has covered them, it is melted for a space
of four inches on all sides of the hive, and sufficient air
circulates through it, for all their necessities.
SHADE.
It has been strongly urged to keep all hives out of
the sun, without regard to the strength of the colony,
because an occasional warm day allures the bees out-
side, when they get on the snow and perish. This is a
loss, to be sure, but there is a possibility of inducing a
still greater one by endeavoring to avoid the lesser. I
have already said, that the second rate or poor stocks
may occasionally starve with plenty of stores in the hive,
on account of frosty combs.
If the hive is kept from the sun, in the cold, the periods
of temperate weather may not occur as often as the bees
exhaust the honey within their circle or cluster. But on
the contrary, when the sun can strike the hive, it warms
up the bees, and melts the frost more frequently. The
bees may then go among their stores, and obtain a
supply, generally, as often as needed. ‘We seldom have
a winter without enough sunny days for this purpose,
but when such a one occurs, stocks of this class should
be taken to a warm room, once in eight or ten days, for
a few hours at a time, to give them an opportunity to get
at the honey.
LOST ON THE SNOW.
As for bees being lost on the snow when flying out,
I apprehend that not many more are lost there than on
the frozen earth, that is, in the same kind of weather. I
have seen them chilled and lost on the ground by
hundreds, when a casual observer would not have noticed
306 WINTERING BEES.
them; whereas, had they been on the snow, every bee
would have been noticable at the distance of several
rods. Snow is not to be dreaded so much as chilly air.
Suppose that a hive stands in the sun throughout
the winter, and the bees are permitted to leave when
they choose, and a portion is .ost on the snow; and
that it were possible to number all that are lost by be-
coming chilled on the bare earth, throughout the season,
the number lost on the snow would not be one in twenty.
A person who has not observed closely during the damp
and chilly weather in April, May, or even the summer
months, has no adequate conception of the number. Yet
I do not wish to be understood that those lost on the
snow are of no consequence, by any means. On the
contrary, a great many are lost that might be saved by
proper care. But I would like to impress the fact that
warm air is essential, and that crusted snow is as safe a
footing for a bee, as frozen earth. Even melting snow is
solid footing for a bee; it can and does rise from it, with
the same ease as from the earth. Bees that perish on
the snow under these circumstances, would be likely to
be lost in any case.
The worst time for them to leave the hive is imme-
diately after a new snow has fallen, because it will not
sustain their weight, and they soon work themselves
down out of the sun, and speedily perish. Should it
clear off pleasant after a storm of this kind, a little at-
tention will probably be remunerated. To prevent their
leaving the hive at such times, a wide board should be set
up before it, at least as high as the entrance in the side, to
protect it from the sun. But if it grows so warm that
the bees leave the hive when thus shaded, it is fair evi-
dence, that it will do to let them sally out freely, except
in case of a new snow, when they should be confined tc
the hive.
WINTERING BEES. 307
The hive may be let down on the floorboard, the pas-
sage in the side covered with wire-cloth, and made ae
raising, at night again, as before directed. tee
I have known hundreds of colonies wintered success-
fully without any such care, the bees being allowed to
issue whenever they choose. Their subsequent health
and prosperity proved that it was not altogether ruinous.
It has been recommended to enclose the whole hive
by a large box set over it, and made perfectly dark;
with means for ventilation, ete.
For large families it would do well enough, as would
also some other methods. But I would rather take the
chances of letting them all stand in the sun, and issue
at pleasure, than to have the warmth of the sun entirely
excluded from the medium sized families.
I never knew a whole colony to be lost from cold
alone, but I have known a great many to starve, merely
because the sun was not allowed to melt the frost on the
combs, and give them a chance to get at their stores.
There are some extremely economical bee-keepers who
urge the additional objection to allowing bees to stand
in the sun, that “every time bees come out in winter,
they discharge their excrement, and eat more honey in
consequence of the vacant room.” What an absurdity
it would be to apply this principle to the horse, whose
health, strength, and vital heat is sustained by the as-
similation of food! The farmer is not. to be found who
would think of saving his provender by such means.
That bees. are supported in cold-weather on the same
principle, -is indicated strongly, if not conclusively.
Is it not-desirable, if what has been said on the subject
of wintering bees is correct, to keep our bees warm and
comfortable when practicable, as a means of saving honey ?
To winter bees in the best manner, considerable care is
required. Whenever you are disposed to neglect them,
308 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE.
you should remember that one early swarm is worth two
late ones, and that their condition in spring often determines
which you shall have. Like a team of cattle or horses, when
well wintered, they are ready for the season’s work, but
if neglected, they need a long time in which to recruit,
before they are able to make themselves useful.
CHAPTER XXIV.
THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE.
REPUTATION.
Much attention has recently been attracted to this new
variety. The reputation given it by extensive and intel-
ligent apiarians in Germany and other places, induced
some of our citizens to import a few colonies some time
in ’59 or 60. As to who took the lead-in this enterprise,
there are various conflicting claims, which I shall not be
able to reconcile.
IMPORTERS,
Mr. Mahan of Philadelphia, and Mr. Parsons of Flush
ing, N. Y., were among the first to disseminate them
from the imported stock. Afterwards, Mr. Rose of New
York, obtained these bees directly from their native Alps,
and sent out large numbers. Those, to whom the first
were sent, soon spoke in the highest terms of their supe-
rior qualities; representing them as fully sustaining the
reputation they had gained before their arrival.
SUPERIORITY.
It was said that they were larger, more beautiful and
hardy, more prolific, and more industrious than the com-
THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE. 309
mon bees; that they swarmed earlier and more frequent-
ly, were less inclined to sting, more disposed to rob, and
more courageous and active in self-defence! In corrobo-
ration of this, Dr. Kirtland of Cleveland, Ohio says,—I
quote from Mr. Parsons’ Circular,— “Their beauty of
coloring, and graceful forms, render them an object of in-
terest to every person of taste. My colonies are daily
watched and admired by many visitors. So far as my
experience has gone, I find every statement in regard to
their superiority sustained. They will no doubt prove a
valuable acquisition to localities of high altitude, and
will be peculiarly adapted to the climate of Washington
Territory, Oregon, and the mountainous regions of Cali-
fornia.” The Rev. L. L. Langstroth says, “If we may
judge from the working of my colonies, the Italians will
fully sustain their European reputation. They have gath-
ered more than twice ds much honey as the swarms of
the common bee. This honey has been chiefly gathered
within the last few weeks, during which time the swarms
of common bees have increased in weight but very little.
The season here has been eminently unfavorable for the
new swarms—one of the worst I ever knew—and the
prospect now is, that I shall have to feed all of them ex-
cept the Italians.” Mr. E. A. Brackett says, “My ex-
perience thus far satisfies me that the value of the Italian
Bee has not been overrated. The queens are larger and
more prolific; the workers when bred in comb of their
own building are larger, and their honey-sacs larger.
They are less sensitive to cold, and are more industrious.
In all my handling of them, (and I have done so pretty
freely, lifting the combs and examining them almost dai-
ly,) I have never known one to offer to sting.”
WHEN FIRST OBTAINED.
The reports of many others were equally favorable;
and no one has as yet reported unfavorably. I obtained
310 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE,
queens of this variety from most of the parties who had
imported them—from Mahan, Parsons, and Rose.
OBJECT.
.
I procured them, not because I expected to find them
as perfect as represented, but because I wished to be able
to express an opinion of them based upon actual experi-
ence. I wished also to verify by ocular demonstration
many points in the natural history of the bee, with re-
gard to which some of us, it is true, were already suffici-
ently well satisfied, but which at the same time were not
so clear to the majority of bee-keepers; and this object
the new variety would materially aid me to accomplish.
But I had become so accustomed to look upon the won-
ders told of patent hives as extravagant and fabulous,
and circulated only to victimize the ignorant, that when
T heard the seemingly extravagant praises of the Italians,
I very naturally put them in the category of humbugs
pertaining to the bee. When obtained, if I had any
bias, it was against them rather than otherwise. I was
satisfied that among the number of bees in my apiaries,
I would have greater opportunities for investigation and
comparison than most of those who had fewer colonies.
All of us who have had much experience know, that a-
mong colonies of the common bee, apparently equal in
all respects, there will sometimes be a difference of one-
half in results. This shows that nothing reliable can be
deduced.from the experience of one or two seasons in
small apiaries—say of a dozen stocks, half of them
Italians, even if the latter surpass the common bee by fifty
per cent., although one might very honestly conclude
that the greater thrift of the Italians in such case was
entirely owing to their superior qualities. We can hope
to arrive at a just conclusion, only, by comparing the re-
sults of numerous trials in large apiaries.
THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE. 311
Determined to get the best, if there was any difference,
I obtained a queen from each party. The first one pro-
duced fully one-half of her workers of the native color.
Having no faith in the purity of this one I did not dare
to rear a queen from her. The next was not obtained till
late in the season, owing to the management of certain
interested friends at headquarters—of which friends most
men are unfortunate enough to have more or less, At
length, however, I obtained two, one.of them in time to
rear a few queens, the most of which were dark. The
workers were fine. The next spring (1861) I raised a
large number of beautifully colored queens. I had several
stocks of hybrids from the queens reared the previous
year, which had mated with the native drone. On these,
with one drone queen, I depended for early drones for
the young queens. I found that the drones from light-
colored queens were much better marked than those from
dark ones—indeed, a great many of the latter appeared
no better than the natives. Yet, they had to be consid-
ered pure. Nearly all the queens raised at this time, be-
fore the appearance of the native drones, produced genu-
ine Italian workers.
PECULIARITIES.
I now began to watch their peculiarities with consider-
able interest. I had two colonies nearly all changed,
several hybrids, and a number in which I had just intro-
duced the queen. I had about 60 native colonies, and
all the Italians, marked with the yellow stripe, which
would have made about three good swarms, in one
apiary. White Clover was blossoming in abundance,
and the Early Red, or June Clover, in small quantities.
Here was a chance to see if they frequented the red clover
more than the natives. I found nine Italians to two na-
tives on this plant. The two exceptions might have been
312 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE.
black hybrids.* I discovered some on a little ball of
wax, made by the squeezing together by the hand, of bits
of old, dry comb, that had been accidentally left in the
sun. It was packed on their legs like pollen, and carried
to the hive. I had never seen the native bees thus en-
gaged. Here was another item to their credit, which,
although of little account in itself, suggested that if they
could turn to good account one stone rejected by the
builders, they might also other and greater ones.
LONGER LIVED.
But more important than this, it soon became evident
that they were longer-lived. Some time in October I de-
prived three ordinary-sized colonies of their queens and
united them, giving them brood from an Italian queen.
This brood occupied both sides of a comb some five or six
inches square. It matured and a queen was produced. At
this time there was about one Italian to fifty or one hun-
dred natives. There being no increase except of drones,
the queen proving barren of workers, the colony was
pretty well reduced by the last of May. But the propor-
tion of the Italians to the natives had been steadily on the
increase. I now introduced a moderate family of natives,
in order to continue the production of Italian drones. In
a few weeks more, they again became reduced, worms ap-
peared, and the colony was broken up. Not far from one-
third of the remnant was Italians. Evidence of the
strongest kind was here furnished, showing that they live
longer than the natives.t
* This was important tome. If the honey from white clover would sustain
60 or 80 colonies, that from the red would sustain nearly as many mor e, and I
could keep double the number in each year.
j It explains how a greater proportion of very weak colonies of Italians are
increased into strong ones, than there are of the natives. Also how they retain
their strength when all their combs are so nearly filled with honey, that but few
cells are left for breeding.
THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BER. 313
ROBBING.
Their robbing propensities were also closely watched
with the expectation of finding their appetite for maraud-
ing, insatiable. This propensity is indicated by their keen
sagacity in scenting out any exposed honey that may
chance to be in their vicinity. If standing uncovered on
a table in the dining room, with the tempting avenue of
an open window or door, the bees are quite sure to find
it, especially at certain seasons, but the first one on hand
is sure to be an Italian, notwithstanding nineteen twen-
tieths of the apiary may be natives. Judging from this
alone, we should conclude at once that they are unscru-
pulous robbers; and no doubt they are when there are
colonies within reach, reduced to entire helplessness. But
with me they were not half so troublesome as the black
rascals. Whether I had no weak stocks to tempt them to
begin, or whether they had a little principle of forbear-
ance, I cannot tell. To see what they would do, I now
had them standing promiscuously with the others through-
out the yard. They were kept thus for two seasons with
this object expressly in view. I thought it very likely that
the wealth of stores which they were reputed to gain
much more rapidly than the common bee, would be found
to be composed in great part of plunder taken from their
neighbors. But the idea had to be dismissed. In self-de-
fence, they were vigilant and active. Ifa native ap-
proached the entrance of their domicile, he was seized and
despatched without hesitation. Even an Italian venturing
too near a strange colony was not favored. But I have
kept my little boxes for rearing queens, successfully,
though defended by only a handful of bees, till late in
November.
The results of this season’s experience were very satis-
factory. I found the stocks of Italians, the hybrids as
well as those in which the queens had been early intro-
14
314 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE.
duced, averaging heavier than the others. Where the
queens had been introduced, however, the season was well
advanced before the bees were all changed, and such stocks
therefore did not furnish a perfect test. Neither did the
full blood colony from which I was taking brood to rear
queens, since it was fed at different periods to promote
breeding, and at the same time kept reduced to prevent
swarming.
In the spring of 1862 I sold nearly all my pure queens,
keeping only a few to breed from, and the hybrids.
DISPOSITION.
Long before this time, I had learned much about their
amiable disposition. They had exceeded my expectations
in so many particulars, that for a long time whenever
they manifested any unusual ill-nature I found myself
seeking some apology in the peculiar circumstances of the
case. But I was at last reluctantly forced to admit that
the Italian bees, especially the hybrids, were cross—not
moderately so, but just as cross, it seemed, at times, as
they knew well how to be. In the season of swarming
for instance, to hive some swarms without protection
would be perfect madness; others would be less irritable.
In the season of honey, any time between ten o’clock in
the morning and four in the afternoon, when the weather
is fine, I have no difficulty in opening the hive to obtain
brood, or for any other purpose. While at work they do
not seem to notice much that is going on around them.
Walking among them at such times seldom attracts
attention. But when I would fasten up a colony that
had been sold, and was now about to be sent away,
I had to do it of course when the whole family was at
home, usually in the morning; and at such times every
bee would seem a warrior bent on driving me away. By
the use of smoke I could drive them like the black bees
THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE. 315
among the combs and out of the way, but while the latter
would be quickly and easily subdued, the former would
return again and again, darting at my face like a shot, and
not always without effect. They are remarkably quick.
When I stand within two or three feet of a family of
black bees, and see one start for my face, I can often
avert it in time to prevent a sting; but he must be a skill-
ful swordsman, who would thus parry the lightning-thrust
of the Italian.
The results obtained during the summer of 1862 corre-
sponded with those of the preceding year, and tended
strongly to establish their superiority.
SWARMING.
Having a large proportion of hybrids, I had an oppor-
tunity to observe their swarming qualities. I found that
they swarmed more, began earlier, and continued later,
than the native bees. During the season of ’63 there was
a still greater difference manifest. The hybrids and a few
pure ones, about seventy in number, constituted the whole
apiary. Having no native bees in the yard with them—
which of course would have furnished a more complete
test—I had to compare them with others near by. With-
in three miles, in different directions, were six large apia-
ries, comprising nearly 300 colonies. If I except a few
hybrids in one yard, the whole of them together failed to
produce as many swarms as this one. Yet each of these
six apiaries had the advantage of pasture, being located on
the outside. The Italians began to swarm three weeks
before the others. The first one, a hybrid, issued on
the 20th of May, and a second from the same hive, on the
30th. As this was a season of but little honey, these two
were put in hives containing combs and a little honey
gathered the year before. By the 11th of July the old
316 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE.
hive had again become full of bees, and a third swarm is.
sued. The first swarm, hived May 20th, sent out a swarm
June 80th, and a second July 9th; while the second
swarm, hived May 30th, swarmed July 19th, making
six swarms from one in a season. The other Italians
did not swarm so excessively. The last three swarms got
mixed with others and further trace of them was lost.
The old hive and the first one from it, contained at the end
of the season, strong colonies with ample stores for winter.
The season for honey was one of the poorest that I ever
knew. So little was obtained that but few of the natives
could afford to swarm, and many that did so, failed to se-
cure stores for winter, as did also some of the swarms.
Some of the Italians did but little better in gathering
honey. When it is not to be had, all must do without.
But they gathered pollen, and reared brood, with thrice
the energy of the natives. Swarms came out as late as
22nd of August, when scarcely any honey was to be col-
lected. This propensity to swarm in such a season—I will
not call it over-swarming, because in all cases, bees enough
were left—was of no particulai advantage. I mention it
to show their perseverance in improving all possible
conditions. It will be supposed that if they swarm thus in
seasons of scarcity, a season of plenty would cause them
to issue still more extravagantly. I have not found it so
thus far; for this reason, as I suppose. The combs are
quickly filled with honey, and brood is excluded. In
spring, there are empty combs of course, and they fill up
with brood, while the flowers yield little else than pollen.
As soon as the first swarm leaves, which is usually in a
season of honey, every bee that hatches leaves a cell that
cannot be again occupied with an egg, within two or three
weeks, which will allow the bees to fill it with honey;
and by the time the young queen is ready to commence
laying, her field of operations is limited to a very few
THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE. 317
combs near the bottom, not enough to admit of rearing
bees for another swarm.
HIVE CROWDED WITH BLES IN COOL WEATHER.
On examining the hives at the commencement of cold
weather, I found the whole colony packed into the small
space at the bottom where the brood was hatched. A
person not acquainted with the cause of their clustering
so low down, would at once suppose that he had a pro-
digious family, when in reality the whole number would be
no greater than in a colony of natives, where they were
gathered half way to the top. It must be admitted that a
colony with an excess of stores, is not in the best condition
for winter, especially in the open air. Very likely the com-
plaint will be made when this is the case, that the Italians
do not winter well, even when “the hive was full of
honey.”
REMEDY.
The stores may be reduced, and the condition for winter
improved, by dividing such colony at the proper season,
and giving them empty combs for raising brood, or empty
frames in which to construct combs. Both divisions will
soon have plenty of breeding cells, and at the end of the
season, will probably be stronger, than if confined to the
few cells sometimes left for breeding in the full colony.
If dividing would make them entirely too weak, it would
benefit them greatly to remove several full combs, and re-
place with empty combs or frames. These bees are liable
to excesses; when honey is scarce, they rear brood; when
abundant, they gather too much for their own good.
They will need supervision, and movable combs of some
form are requisite. In giving my experience, I have given
what may be considered as the general rule. There are
exceptions in individual cases as with other bees. To sin-
318 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE.
gle out and report either extrene is unfair; that which is
true of the majority, is the only reliable criterion.
I have now related my observations on nearly all the
points of character enumerated at the beginning, as well
as some others. ‘That they are less sensitive to cold, I am
not yet prepared to say. That they are more prolific, is
sufficiently proved. It is also clearly indicated that they
are less so, in good honey seasons. It is also shown that
they swarm earlier. Their disposition was found gener-
ally much worse than represented, yet under some cir-
cumstances very mild.
I think it very probable that many who obtain them
will expect too much, and meet with disappointment.
They may procure a colony that proves to be the excep-
tion to the rule, or the queen may be impure, producing
nothing but hybrids. Although a half blood progeny will
be much superior to the natives, the next remove will be
so much reduced that, they will not be a fair sample.
PURITY TO BE SECURED
I would advise all those who are disposed to try them,
to purchase only of some reliable man, who will guarantee
the purity of all he sells, so that if the first queen pro-
cured, should prove impure, it would be replaced by oth-
ers, until a pure one was obtained.* The lowest price is
not always cheapest. Bee-keepers have not as yet been
able to decide on a reliable test of purity, a test that
would detect the slightest mixture of native blood, with
the genuine Italian. All admit that a yellow band must
surround the abdomen of pure Italian workers; and that
* To change a colony of Lees from the native to the Italian, it is only neces-
sary to remove the native queen and introduce a pure Italian. She will at once
commence laying eggs, and in about three months, the whole colony will be
Ttalians.
THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE. 319
the drones, a part of them, at least, must be marked ir-
regularly, the band being somewhat scalloped.
VARIATION IN COLOR OF QUEENS.
Among the queens there is a great variation in color,
some being even blacker than the natives, while the ab-
domen of others, is a beautiful yellow nearly its whole
length. These are the marks, it is said, by which they
are distinguished in their home in the Alps, where they
are surrounded by a barrier of mountains impassable to
the common bee.
It is said that they have existed there since the days
of Virgil and Aristotle. If they existed at that time, as
a superior variety, it would seem to be a mark against
them that they have not become the predominant variety.
That they should be indebted to the protection of sur-
rounding mountains for their very existence is not much
in their favor. It seems to be a law of nature that the
poor and feeble shall be superseded by the better and
stronger races.
As they are not a distinct species like the Stingless Bee
of the tropics, but only a variety of the common bee,—
as is proved by their mixing with them through all the
grades,—I would suggest that they have grown into their
present status through the influence of climate and sur-
rounding circumstances, and that the impassable moun-
tain enclosure has prevented all degrading alliances.
SUSCEPTIBLE OF IMPROVEMENT.
That bees may have changed from the common black
to the brilliant specimens before us, in a few centuries or
thousands of years, is indicated by similar changes in our
domestic animals. We have the Pony, Cart, Farm, and
Thoroughbred—horse: we have the Native, Ayrshire,
Devon, and Durham, in neat cattle; the Newfoundland,
Terrier, Hound, Pointer, and Poodle, among dogs, and all
320 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE,
gradations of domestic fowls from the enormous Asiatic,
to the tiny Bantam, All these differences have followed
some adequate producing cause, and had we the whole
genealogy in each case, we could doubtless go back to
one original stock. Great changes are effected by select-
ing some point desirable to propagate, such as size, sym-
metry of proportions, or color, and breeding from such
only as exhibit the desired qualities in the greatest per-
fection. The longer we breed in one direction, or the
greater the number of generations that have exhibited
particular qualities, the more we expect to find those
points in the offspring, and the more the chances of their
showing the original type, are diminished. But a few
years since, a man conceived a fancy for breeding Shang-
hai fowls with short legs. He obtained by the first cross
but a few specimens. Selecting the largest to breed
from, he obtained a greater proportion of the mixed ones,
and after a few generations, he had almost established a
new variety, yet the bodies were not quite as large as he
wished. By crossing again with the large ones, he ob-
tained a few with short legs, three-quarter size, and by
continued experiments, he was finally able to show these
fowls with short legs, and bodies so little inferior in size
as not to be distinguished by that alone.
Such examples of progressive improvement point out
the way in which we can improve these bees in color, if
in nothing else. We have only to breed from the best spe-
cimens, and as several generations can be matured in one
summer, there should be rapid progress.* Until all the
bees in a neighborhood are of this kind, there will be
constant danger of mixing with natives. There must be
continual vigilance, to discover and remove all such. It
will not be long before all bee-keepers become satisfied of
* At present very many of the pure queens are dark colored, even when
their workers are all handsomely marked, We should get rid of this feature,
THY ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE. 321
the superiority of the Italians, before which time it can-
not be expected that they will do much towards changing
their stock.*
NEIGHBORS JOIN IN PURCHASING QUEENS,
Could all that keep bees in one neighborhood be induced
to begin with the Italians at the same time, each would
have but comparatively little trouble, but as this cannot
be looked for, we must consider how a person must man-
age to preserve their purity when surrounded by the na-
tives. There are two or three methods.
MIX THREE MILES DISTANT.
If the natives are three miles distant, there is but little
risk. Should they be nearer, the young queens should
be taken to some place at least that distance from them, so
as to meet the pure drones before they commence laying.
COLONY TO FURNISH DRONES.
A colony to furnish the drones should be strong and
must stand near the young queens. One for the purpose
will rear many more than the usual number, by supply-
ing it with extra drone-combs. Take out worker-combs
and replace with drone-combs—taken one each from dif-
ferent hives,—leaving only worker-combs enough to main-
tain the strength of the colony.
As soon as the queen hatches and leaves the cell, the
box containing her should be taken to this yard, and left
there till she begins to lay, which will be in about eight
days, more or less, when she may be introduced to the
native stock. If there should be any chance for such
queen to meet a native drone, which would be possible,
* Daring the past summer, (1&64.) I succeeded in interesting my bec-
Keeping neighbors, with one exception, within three miles, to Italianize their
bees, and consequently expect to find but few hybrids among my young queens
throughout the coming summer.
14*
822 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE.
if one or two native stocks were within the prescribed
limits, and it was desired to test her purity before intro-
ducing her, it would be necessary to wait till some of
her workers hatch. If she has demeaned herself by a
“mis-alliance” it will usually be manifested by some
of her workers being black. If she is bright, and it is
absolutely certain that she was purely impregnated, the
bees left after she is removed, may be allowed to rear an-
other queen from her brood; otherwise, give them brood
from a queen that you know to be pure.
METHOD OF ITALIANIZING A WHOLE APIARY.
There is another method of changing an apiary where
there is a large number, that may be less trouble than the
foregoing. Those who are not fully acquainted with the
natural history of bees, will be hardly able to compre-
hend it, yet I shall give it, and trust to their becoming
familiar with the whole subject.
Queens enough can be reared in one summer to supply
the whole apiary, no matter how many may be required,
and if this is decided upon, take no pains to isolate, but
rear all the queens at home, and let them meet the native
drone. These will produce mixed workers, but pure
drones.—The impregnation of a queen has no effect on
her drone progeny.—Introduce a queen into each stock,
and the next season, perhaps before, if done early, all the
drones will be pure Italians. Now raise another set of
queens from the original pure one; the drones of the
yard being all pure, they can hardly fail to meet them,
and consequently the second generation of workers will
be pure. Occasionally, a queen will produce hybrid
workers; as soon as discovered, remove her, and substi-
tute another.
THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE. 823
RAISING AND INTRODUCING QUEENS.
ARTIFICIAL QUEENS.
I term queens reared as about to be described, artificial
queens, in contra-distinction to those raised by the bees
in the process of natural swarming.
We will first see how it is to be done with the movable
comb hive, for it is to be presumed that most who raise
them will use this hive in some form, as without it, all
the advantages will not be realized.
HOW TO REAR THEM.
Rearing queens artificially is done by enclosing a few
bees, a pint’ or a quart, without a queen, with a small
piece of comb containing larve or eggs. Make a little
box, or miniature hive, large enough to hold three combs
or more, four or five inches square. Suspend frames
within, just as in the hive. Fit in them pieces of dry
ae 2 = clean comb, and fasten
Ga2as3039 with a bit of tin, Geta
= 4 iece of comb containin
CECE EC coe or larve, cut in sts
Fig. 34.—COMB CONTAINING BROOD shape, two inches long by
PROMTEEGS SORES QUEESE~ @ Jittlé moré than balf an
inch wide. Cut apiece the same size, except underside, out
of the middle of one of the combs, and insert it thus, sup-
ported by each end.—See Fig. 34.—The bees will
weld it fast in a few hours. The space cut out
below, gives room to make the queen-cells, and they are
quite sure to make them here. When the larve are just
the right age, six or eight queens will sometimes mature
in 10 or 11 days, at other times, in 16 or 18, But
if the grub is over four days old, it is doubtful if it
can be changed toa queen. This shape of the piece of
brood comb is better than square, as it gives a
324 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE,
chance to separate the cells should there be several. On
a square piece they overlap each other, so that one cannot
be cut out without spoiling most of the others. If you
want to make the most of the cells you have, get ready
another box with combs and bees, cut out a piece in the
7
wy
YY
Y
on?
©,
Fig. 35.—No. 54 INSERTED IN A COMB READY FOR THE REARING BOX.
centre of the comb, and having carefully cut out a queen-
cell, put it in this space, without bruising or rudely shak-
ing it. The bees accept this instead of brood, and they
will have a queen ten days sooner by the operation.
In about one-third of the cases, the bees will destroy
such cell; the operation must then be repeated. It would
insure safety in all cases, if the cell, with three or four
bees from the rearing box, and a small quantity of honey
in a cup of tin-foil or some convenient material, could be
THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE, B25
enclosed in a wire-cloth cage, and remain thus until the
queen hatches, and they have become reconciled to her
presence.
It will not do to postpone the removal of these cells
for more than ten days if you wish to be sure of saving
Fig. 86.—QUEEN CELLS MADE ON INSERTED COMB.
all the queens. I have known the oldest one to come out
of her cell, and destroy all the others in ten days from
the time they commenced rearing them.
HOW TO OBTAIN BEES FOR REARING QUEENS.
The bees to rear queens, should, when practicable,-be
obtained from hives at least a mile and a half from the
place where the queens are to be raised. Take them from
a strong colony. If from the box-hive, invert it and
drive out a quart or two into an empty hive or box, look
out the queen if among them, and put her back. If they
326 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE.
are to be .aken from the Movable Comb Hive, take cut
two or three combs and shake the bees off beside the box,
into which they will run if it is set down with one edge
raised a little, taking care all the time to not get the queen.
Shut up the bees by tying a cloth over. Have an
inch hole in the top of the box containing them, and
when the small box, with comb, brood, etc., is all ready,
set it over it, and the bees will enter at once. Not find-
ing a queen, in a few hours they will commence rearing
one or more, by converting common cells into queen-cells,
and worker-larve into queens. If the bees have been
taken from a colony at home, it will be necessary to con-
fine them from thirty-six to forty-eight hours, otherwise
they may return to the old colony. If taken from a
colony at a distance, less time will answer. They should
be fed when shut up, unless some of their combs are
filled with honey. By obtaining the bees in the middle
of the day while the old ones are out foraging, a large
proportion will be young bees that have never left the
hive, which are considered by many to be better for this
purpose than old ones; at least they cannot know the
way-to their homes.
BLACK BERS AS NURSES.
Much has already been said relative to the propriety of
having black bees as nurses to raise Italian queens.
Some allege that they impart some taint to the young
queen, which affects all her future progeny. Mr. Lang-
stroth, who is entitled to as much confidence as any one,
thinks it makes but little difference which variety rears
the queen, provided there is a goodly number and plenty
of honey. I have never been able to detect any difference.
The largest and best queens are reared near the swarming
season. Ihave observed that a larger proportion of dark
and undersized ones are raised in cool weather in the fall,
THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE. 327
T have raised nineteen in twenty beautiful queens from one
mother, in July and August; and from the same in Octo-
ber, three out of four would be black and small.
Mr. Langstroth suggests that the cause of this lies in
their being reared by weak colonies. After close observa-
tion, I have failed to discover much in confirmation of this
view. Weak nuclei with abundance of honey, in warm
weather, raise fair queens; strong ones in cool weather
raise very poor ones.
BEST TIME TO OBTAIN BROOD.
From noon till 3 P. M. is decidedly the best time in the
day to obtain the brood. While busy at work, the bees
have not time to notice what is going on. Go to the hive,
containing your best Italian brood, and take out different
combs, till you find brood of the right age, and with a
sharp knife, cut out suitable pieces. Have at hand some
empty clean brood comb, from which cut pieces to ex-
actly replace them. The bees will soon fasten them in
place. In these cases it is well to have some smoke on
hand, in case of emergency, but it is seldom necessary.
Care must be observed not to allow brood or a queen-cell
to become chilled. The rearing boxes, being small, will
be affected by the changes of the weather, more than
hives, and on some occasions will need some protection.
Throw a blanket over the box, or take it in the house
for the night.
It is unnecessary to raise queens before there are any
drones to meet them. It is said by some that the drone
should be at least two weeks old. About the fifth or sixth
day after the queen leaves the cell, she issues for the pur-
pose of meeting the drone; if successful, she commences
laying about the eighth day. This rule, however, like oth-
ers, is liable to exceptions. The queen may be safely in-
troduced. to the native stock, by taking the following pre-
328 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE.
cautions. A laying queen is received better than a virgin.
The colony to receive her should be prepared a few days
previously by removing its queen.
FINDING BLACK QUEEN.
She is most easily found in the middle of the day when
the workers are abroad. If you can take out the frames
without alarming the bees, your chances of success are
more certain. Protect the face, and proceed without smoke,
Pry loose the propolis fastenings, and raise off the top with
the utmost caution, without jarring or thumping the hive
sufficient to give alarm. Have an empty hive near, in
which to put the frames as you take them out. Examine
the centre combs, or those filled with brood first, when you
can conveniently. Look over each one carefully; if not
disturbed, the bees will be spread evenly over the surface,
and her majesty is easily distinguished, when she can be
readily taken up with the fingers. But if an alarm is
raised, she is the most timid of any, and will get away in
the corners of the hive, or among a mass of bees, where it
will need close scrutiny to detect her.* In such case, you
can either return the whole, and try it again some other
time, or divide, putting one half the contents in the empty
hive, and if possible the largest share of bees. Separate
the comhs in each, putting them only in the alternate
spaces. If several hives are used, they can be still farther
separated, which will be of some adyantage. They be-
come quiet in a few minutes, and the qucen will venture
out in sight. The bees on the comb with her will be
quiet, while the others will manifest considerable uneasi-
ness. This will direct your attention to the proper comb.
To return the combs to the hive, in the relative position
before occupied, number them before any are removed,
There is still another method of finding the queen which
* The Italians are seldom much alarmed, and the queen is easier found.
THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE. 329
may be preferred. Make a box about one foot square,
having one of its sides in the form of a door, with hinges,
and a catch to hold it shut. Let another side be made of
narrow slats or strips five thirty-seconds of an inch apart.
These strips are better made of zine, cut very accurately,
but wood will answer. Shake the bees from the combs
and let them enter this box, close the door, and sift the
-bees—shaking them lengthwise off the bars. The workers
pass through the spaces, the queen, and drones, if any,
areretained. If shaken in front of the hive, the bees enter
as they drop out. The shaking confuses them so that
they are not disposed to sting.*
The bees, when returned to the hive destitute of a
queen, will at once commence operations to remedy the
loss, by converting some of the worker larve into queens.
In about seven days all the eggs left will have passed the
period when it is possible to change them thus. Now take’
out the combs again, and cut off al royal cells that con-
tain larve. The safety of the queen introduced, depends
greatly on their entire removal.
The queen might be introduced in less time than this,
and be accepted, at least without being stung imme-
diately, yet being so different from the old mother, they
are not always satisfied, and when they have means, will
sometimes rear another, notwithstanding her presence.
It is best to allow them no such opportunity.
INTRODUCTION OF QUEEN.
Introduce the queen thus. Secure her with two or
three of her workers, and a little honey in a wire-cloth
cage, and insert it among the combs. At the end of
twenty-four hours, she may be let out among the bees, and
when the foregoing preliminaries are observed—will be—
* When the hives from which the bees are taken for rearing boxes, contain
black drones, they may be separated very readily by this methc of sifting.
330 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE,
as far as my experience extends—well received. I have
succeeded with equal satisfaction, and much less trouble
with the following method, due to Mr. L. A. Aspinwall.
It is simply to immerse the queen in a little honey—
slightly warmed, if necessary—and drop her among the
bees, which immediately commence licking her off, and
forget that she is ausurper. This is so much less trouble
that I prefer it, and consider myself very much indebted
to him for the suggestion.
I would remark that if the Italian queen is introduced
in the swarming season, when the bees are gathering
abundance of honey, and the colony is strong enough to
divide—making two—it would be well to do so, as it
saves the trouble of looking up more than one queen for
two hives, and you can find this one with much less
trouble. (Directions for dividing may be found in the
chapter on artificial swarms.)
ITALIANIZING THE BOX HIVE.
There are some who will still continue to use the box
hive, who will wish to furnish them with Italian queens.
It can be done, but involves a little more trouble, and
the bees are kept a little longer without a laying queen;
there is also a delay of *some weeks, before you are
certain of success. The process is as follows:
Drive out the bees, find and remove the queen, allow-
ing the bees to return immediately. According to the
rule, in twelve days they will mature a successor, and
the first one that hatches will destroy the others before
they mature. In eight days she will commence laying.
This must not be allowed, but as soon as it is certain
that she has destroyed all her royal sisters, which will be
in two or three days at farthest, and before she begins
laying, she herself must be destroyed—Any immature
queens found about the entrance will indicate the des-
THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE, B31
truction of her rivals. Drive out the becs again, find
and kill the queen, and again return them. There is no
possibility of their rearing another queen, and the Italian
may be introduced in three days without much risk, if
the usual precautions are taken.
Should the first queen that matures in such case, lead
out a swarm instead of destroying her royal sisters,
(which she would be likely to do, at any time near the
swarming season,) it will be some days later before they
are killed, and unless the colony is very strong, it would
be best to return the swarm. Hive it, and set it near the
parent stock till the next morning, then set the bees to
running into the old hive, and secure the queen. When
the piping entirely ceases, it may be taken as evidence
that but one queen remains, and that it is time to operate.
If it is desired to introduce a queen into a stock that
has swarmed it can be done on the same principle. The
only important point is to secure the queen remaining
after the destruction of the others, before she has begun
to lay. Any hive that loses its queen by her coming out
to meet the drone, may be supplied by simply taking the
trouble to introduce one.
A neighbor has successfully introduced them to the
box hive, at the beginning of the swarming season. As
soon as a stock can spare a swarm, and before any queen-
cells are finished preparatory to swarming, he drives out
in the middle of the day a small swarm, and removes the
old hive a few feet and places the new one on its stand.
The old bees, that are acquainted with the old place, re-
turn there and make it strong. Two days afterward the
young bees that are hatching readily accept of any queen
that is given them. Old bees would be likely to destroy
them when given under similar circumstances.
Queens may be introduced into the box hive by another
process, in October or November, after the queen is done
332 THE ITALIAN OR LIGURIAN BEE.
laying, or at any time when there is no brood in the
combs from which to rear queens. Drive out the bees,
remove the old queen, and return them. At the end of
a week introduce the Italian, and all will be right. If
there is any risk of eggs or larve remaining, keep the bees
out of the hive for a week; keeping the box containing
them with a little food, in the cellar or any safe place, till
it is too late to rear a queen from their own means; then
return them, and at the proper time introduce the queen.
I will give a method by which, with only one movable
comb-hive, a small apiary may be Italianized in one season.
Firstly, introduce an Italian queen into a colony occupy-
ing such hive. Drive out all the bees of some good stock
into an empty hive, and set this on the stand. Take the
hive from which the bees were driven, with its contents,
to the stand of the one with movable combs. Lift out the
combs and shake or brush the bees down by the box-hive,
which they will immediately enter. Now take the mov-
able comb-hive with contents to the other stand, and put
that colony in it, and your colonies have simply traded
hives, and each will carry on its usual operations, the same
as if it had always been there. The one with movable
combs can now be controlled. Aftera few hours, when
the bees have become quiet, take out the combs, find and
destroy the common queen.
In a week cut out all queen cells, and give them an
Italian queen, and when she has filled the comb with eggs,
four or five days after, this colony may be transferred
also. Continue the process until all are changed. The
cells cut out being Italian, may be put in the rearing
boxes to hatch,
TRANSPORTING QUEEN.
A queen with a handful of bees can, with proper care,
be sent safely one thousand miles by express. To pack
PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES. 333
her properly, have a box just a little larger in length
and depth than one of the small frames in the rearing
boxes; width about two inches inside. ‘The bottom
should be square; top the width of the box, and held
by screws. The comb should be old and tough, and
contain honey enough for the journey.
CHAPTER XXV.
PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES.
QUALIFICATIONS FOR AN APIARIAN.
If the reader has no bees, and yet has had interest or
patience to follow me thus far, it is presumptive evidence
that he possesses the perseverance requisite to take charge
of anapiary. He must, however, remember the inevitable
anxieties and perplexities, and the amount of time that
proper care requires, as well as the advantages and profit.
But if he is disposed to try the experiment, some initiatory
directions may very likely be acceptable.
LUCK,
The apparent uncertainty of success in bee-keeping
has encouraged a general belief in the old tradition of
“luck,” and in no particular must the “fickle dame” be
conciliated so much, as in the manner of obtaining the
bees, Concerning this important operation, there seems
to be a variety of opinions. One will assert that favor is
secured by stealing one or two stocks to begin with, and
returning them at some future time.
Another, a little more conscientious perhaps, says, that
you must take them without Uberty, but leave an equiva-
lent in money on the stand.
334 PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES.
A third assures us, that the only way to secure an
effectual charm, is to exchange sheep for them; and a
fourth affirms that bees must always be a gift. These
methods have all been recommended to me, with gravity
enough to make an impression.
But another method has been discovered, which works
very well, and that is, when you want bees, go and buy
them, and pay for them, in dollars and cents, or some
other equivalent. And you need not depend on any
mysterious charm, for success,—if you do, I can but pre-
dict failure. It is true that a few believers in “luck” will
occasionally prosper, but it must be the result of accident,
for where the true principles of management are not ob-
served, how can it be otherwise? It is a saying with
some that ‘“‘ one man can have luck but few years at once,”
and others, none at all, although he tries the whole routine
of charms. Thirty years ago, when my respected neigh-
bor predicted a “turn in my luck, because it was always
so,” I could not understand the force of the reasoning,
unless it belonged to the nature of bees to deteriorate,
and consequently run out. I at once determined to as-
certain the truth for myself.
I could understand how a farmer would often fail in
raising his crops, if he depended on chance or luck, in-
stead of upon the fixed principles of nature. It seemed
to me quite possible-that the same reasoning would apply
to the culture of bees. J observed that in good seasons
the majority of bee-keepers were “lucky,” and in poor
seasons, the reverse; and when two or three of the latter
occurred in succession, they always “lost their luck.”
It was evident then, that if my bees could by any means
survive the poor seasons, they would do well enough in
good ones. The result has given me but little reason to
complain.
My advice therefore, is, that reliance be placed on
PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPCRTING BEES, 335
proper management, alone, and that all superstitious no-
tions of propitiating some mystic power be thrown to the
winds.*
It is quite common for beginners to take bees “on
shares” as it is termed; it is a cheap way to begin, and
there is no risk of loss in capital.
The general rule is this: one or more stocks are taken
for a term of years, the person taking them, finding hives
and boxes, and bestowing the necessary care, and re-
turning the old stocks to the owner, with half the increase
and half of the annual profits.
Yet, if bees prosper, the interest on the money paid
for them is a mere trifle compared to the value of the
increase, and there is the same trouble. On the other
hand, the owner can afford to take care of a few hives
more, for the half of the profits which he has to give, if
another takes them.
There are yet a few persons who refuse to sell a colony
of bees, because it is “bad luck.” There is often a foun-
dation for this notion.
Suppose a person has half a dozen hives, three extra
good—the others, the opposite. He sells the three good
ones, for the sake of the better price; there is but little
doubt but his “luck” will go too. But had he sold the
poorer ones, the result would doubtless have been very -
different.
But sometimes apiarians have more bees than they
wish too keep, and such are the ones of which to buy. °
Purchasers seldom want any but first-rate stocks—such
are generally cheapest in the end.
* I receive scores of letters, detailing the continued success of the writers,
till they can count their colonies by hundreds, arising from the adoption of a
common sense method of management.
336 PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES.
PURCHASE THE BEST.
Firstly then, select first-class stocks; it will make but
little difference whether they are obtained in fall or
spring, if winter management is understood. I have al-
ready said that the requisites for winter were, a numer-
ous family and plenty of honey, and that the cluster of
bees should extend through nearly all the combs.
AVOID DISEASED SsTOCK,
To avoid diseased brood, make your purchases, if pos-
sible, in an apiary where it has not made its appearance.
There are some who have lost bees from this cause—and
yet were totally ignorant of the fact. It is well there-
fore, to inquire if any stocks have been lost, and trace
out the cause, being careful not to mistake the immedi-
ate occasion of the loss, for the primary one—which may
be disease.
OLD STOCKS NOT OBJECTIONABLE.
If you are satisfied that there is no foul brood, you
need not object to stocks two or three years old, they
are as good and sometimes better than others, especially
if they have swarmed the season previous, because such
always have young queens, which are said to be more
prolific than the old ones, which are nearly always found
in first swarms.
‘When no apiary from which to purchase can be found
except those in which the disease prevails, you cannot
be too cautious in making a selection. It would be saf-
est in this case to take none but young swarms, as it is
very uncommon for any to be affected the first season.
Old stocks are as prosperous as any, as long as they
are healthy, but they are more liable to become diseased.
than young swarms.
If you are not allowed to take all young stocks, ex-
PUROHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES, 337
amine them in pretty cold weather, as the bees will be
farther up among the combs, and give an opportunity
for inspecting them. About November, all the healthy
brood will be hatched. Sometimes a few young bees
may be left that have matured, and have been chilled
by sudden cold weather, but these are not diseased—
the bees will remove them the next season, and no bad
results will follow. In warm weather, a satisfactory in-
spection can be made, only with the use of smoke. Be
particular to reject all that are affected with the disease
in the least; do without, rather than begin with such.
(A fall description of the disease has been given in
Cuap. xiv.)
A neighbor once purchased thirteen hives; six were
old ones, the others swarms of the previous season. He
probably knew nothing of foul brood, and as the old
hives were heavy, he thought them good, but five of the
six were badly affected. Four were a total loss, except
the honey ; the fifth lasted through the winter, and then
had to be transferred. He had flattered himself that
they were obtained very cheaply, but when he estimated
the cost of the good ones, he found no great reason for
congratulation.
Another point is worthy of consideration: endeavor
to get hives as near the right size as possible, (viz.) 2000
cubic inches,—better too large than too small. If too
large, they may be cut off, leaving them the proper size,
although this often makes the shape ungainly. But as
the shape probably makes no difference in the prosperity
of the bees, when extremes are avoided, the appearance
is the principal objection.*
* Alive maybe cut off with very little trouble in a cold day. Turn it over—
the bees will soon find it too cold to venture out—mark it the right size, and saw
it off. Lift off the piece, and trim off the combs even with the bottom of the
Wive. Use smoke to drive the bees from the ends of the combs.
338 PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES.
TRANSPORTING BEES.
In transporting your bees, avoid, if possible, the two
extremes of very cold, or very warm weather. In the
‘latter the combs are so nearly melted, that the weight of
the honey well bend them, bursting the cells, spilling
the hohey, and besmearing the bees. In very cold
weather, the combs are brittle, and easily detached from
the sides of the hive. When it is necessary to move
them in winter, they should be put up an hour or two
before starting. The agitation of the bees on being
disturbed will create considerable heat, which imparted
to the combs, will make them less brittle.
Have ready some carpet tacks, and pieces of thin
muslin about half a yard square. Invert the hive, put
the cloth over, neatly folded and fastened with a tack
at the corners, and another in the middle of each side.
Crowd the tack in about two-thirds of its length; it is
then convenient to pull out when required.
If the bees are to be taken some distance, and must
be confined for several days, the muslin will hardly be
sufficient, and wire-cloth must be substituted. New
comb will break more easily than old. Probably the
best mode of conveyance is in a wagon with elliptic
springs. A wagon without springs is bad, especially
for young’ stocks; yet I have known them to be moved
safely in this way with care in packing hay or straw
under and around them, and careful driving. When
there is good sleighing, a sleigh will answer very well,
and some prefer this method of transportation.
Whatever conveyance is employed, the hive shou!d be
inverted. The combs will then rest on the top, and are
less liable to break than when right end up, because in
the latter case the whole weight of the combs must come
upon the fastenings at the top and sides, and these are
easily broken,
PURCHASING STOCKS AND TRANSPORTING BEES, 339
It is considerable trouble to prepare the movable comb
hive to be turned over, yet for long journeys, it is abso-
lutely necessary. Put sticks on each side of each comb,
in about two places, to hold it steady, (see directions for
transferring combs in Cmap, x1x,) then lay on the top of
the frames, cross-wise, thin strips to hold them in place
—and fasten on the honey board with screws.
Turn the hive over, and cover the bottom with wire-
cloth. With proper care they may be sent by Rail Road
one thousand miles. I can devise no convenient way of
fastening the combs in hives that have permanent bot-
tom-boards, such as Mr. Langstroth and some others
use. Some other patent hives, like Mr. Hazen’s, cannot
be inverted for transportation. Such must of necessity
be carried right side up.
I sometimes transport movable comb hives in this
manner for very short distances, but with much fear of
breakage. When I send off a colony of Italians, I dare
not risk them thus.
When bees are moved, thus inverted, they will creep
upward; in stocks part full, they will often nearly all
leave the combs and get upon the covering.
In a short time after being set up, they will return,
except in very cold weather, when a few will sometimes
freeze, consequently, they should be put in a warm room
for a short time.
After carrying them a few miles the disposition to sting
is generally gone. When bees are confined in moderate
weather, they manifest a persevering determination to
find their way out, particularly after being moved, and
somewhat disturbed. I have known them to bite holes
through muslin in three days, The same difficulty is
often experienced in attempting to confine them to the
hive, by cloth, when in the house in winter.
Should any combs become broken, or detached from
340 CONCLUSION.
their fastenings, by moving, rendering them liable to fall
when set up, the hive may remain inverted on the stand,
till warm weather if necessary, and the bees have fastened
them, which they will do soon after commencing work
in the spring. If they are so badly broken that they
bend over, rolls of paper should be put between them
to preserve the proper distance, till secured. While the
hive is inverted it is essential that there is a hole in the
side, through which the bees may work. A board should
fit closely over the bottom, and be covered with a roof
to effectually exclude all water, etc. When they com-
mence making new combs it is time to turn the hive right
end up.
CHAPTER XXVI.
CONCLUSION,
In conclusion I would say that the apiarian who has
followed me attentively, and has added nothing of value
to his stock of information, possesses an enviable ex-
perience.
It has been said, that “three out of five who commence
bee-keeping must fail;’ but we must suppose that the
fault arises from ignorance or inattention, and is not in-
herent in the bees. To the beginner, then, I would say:
if you expect to succeed in obtaining one of the most
delicious of sweets for your own consumption, or its
equivalent value in dollars and cents, you will find some-
thing more to be requisite than merely “holding the dish
to catch the porridge.” “Sr your BEES OFTEN,” and
and know at all times, their actual condition. This one
precept is werth more than all others that can be given;
CONCLUSION, 34,
it stands at the head of all the duties of the apiaris 4.
Even the grand secret of successful resistance to the
worms “KEEP YOUR BEES STRONG” is subordinate to this.
With proper and persevering application of the above
motto, you cannot fail to realize all reasonable expecta-
tions. Avoid over-anxiety for a rapid increase; be
satisfied with one good swarm from a stock annually—
your chances of future success are better than with a
sudden increase of numbers. You will probably be
obliged to discard some extravagant ideas of profits from
the apiary. Yet you will find one stock trebling, per-
haps quadrupling its price or value, in products, while
one beside it does nothing. In particularly favorable
seasons your stocks collectively will yield a profit of one
or two hundred per cent,—in others hardly make a return
for trouble. I have known the proceeds of a single co-
lony in one season to amount to $35.00; and an apiary
of ninety stocks to produce over $900, some of which
added not a farthing to the amount. A bee-keeper in an
adjoining county reports a profit of $1,800 from one
hundred and thirty hives in a single season, The proper
estimate can be made only after a number of years, when,
if they have been judiciously managed, and your anti-
cipations have not been too extravagant, you will be fully
satisfied.
I do not wish to induce any one to begin bee-keeping,
and relinquish it in disgust and disappointment. But I
would encourage all suitable persons to try their skill in
bee-management. I say suitable persons, because there
are many, very many, not qualified for the charge.
The careless, inattentive man who leaves his bees un-
noticed from October till May, is the one who will be
likely to complain of want of success.
Whoever cannot find time to give his bees the needed
care, but can spend an hour a day in gossiping at the
342 CONCLUSION.
neighboring bar-room, is unfit for this business. But how
can he, who has a home, and finds his interest divided be-
tween that and the idle attractions of the tavern, and
wishes to withdraw from unprofitable associates, employ
his time with a better prospect of success than in the care
of bees? They make ample returns for every attention.
And the gain may not be altogether pecuniary. <A great
many points in their natural history are yet undiscovered,
and the truth of many others disputed. Would it not be
a source of satisfaction to be able to contribute a few more
facts upon this interesting subject, and thus hold a share
in the general fund of scientific knowledge?
Granting all the mysteries pertaining to their economy
to be discovered and elucidated, precluding all necessity
of further investigation, would the study be dry and mo-
notonous? On the contrary, the daily verification of es-
tablished facts would be so fascinating and instructive,
that we could not avoid a sentiment of pity for the condi-
tion of that man who finds gratification only in the gross
and sensual.
It has been remarked that “be who cannot find in this
and other branches of natural history a salutary exercise
for his mental faculties, inducing a habit of observation
and reflection, a pleasure so easily obtained, unalloyed by
any debasing mixture—tending to expand and harmonize
his mind, and elevate it to conceptions of the majestic,
sublime, serene and beautiful arrangements instituted by
the God of Nature, must possess an organization sadiy
deficient, or be surrounded by circumstances indeed la-
mentable.” I would recommend the study of the honey-
bee, as one best calculated to awaken the interest of the
indifferent. What can arrest the attention like their or-
ganism—their diligence in collecting stores for the future
—their secretion of wax and formation of it into strne-
tures with a mathematical precision astonishing the pro-
CONCLUSION. 343
foundest philosophers—their maternal and fraternal affec-
tion in regarding the mother’s every want, and assiduous
care in nursing her offspring to maturity, and their un-
accountable display of instinct in emergencies, filling the
beholders with wonder and amazement? The mind thus
contemplating such wondrous operations, cannot avoid
looking beyond these results to their Divine Author,
Therefore let every mind that receives one ray of light
from nature’s mysterious transactions, and is capable of
deriving the least enjoyment therefrom, pursue the path
still inviting onward.
Every new acquisition will yield an additional satisfac-.
tion and renewed courage for the next attempt which
will be made with a constantly increasing zest; and he
will arise from the contemplation, a wiser, better, nobler
being; far superior to those who have never looked
beyond mere animal gratifications.
Is there in the whole circle of nature’s exhaustless store-
house, any one science more inviting, more refining, and
more exalting than this ?
INDEX.
+O+— ——
Bees, Driving in cold weather.......- 207
“Enemies of ... .....-- + 228
“Equalization of.
A
Acer rubrum.. wees B
“ saccharinum ve
After-swarms, How issuing
of Queens of...
ss Leaving hive... ........ 179
ee Not choosing weather, .179
se SIZE OL, CCC icsccnseraeces 15
Se To return them... -180
Alder, Common or Candle..... 3
Alnus serrulata . 3
Alsike or Swedish . 81
Aithsea rosca
Ants v...085 Sener ry
APVIS osicnrssmasisnarcassveie see
Apiarian, Qualifications for..
Apiary, Italianizing the
& Tocation Ofies iescscanaaeerns i
“Location marked.
“Should not be moyed.. .......
Asclepias Cornuti. .....- 0 week. eee ee 82
ASD ED ewer ss canwiee amine auistineeeaserane 78
B
Basswood.. sage
Bee, Italian o or : Ligurian..
ae Disposition of.
a “Purity of....... apm atest mee
a “Robbing Propensities of..313 *
i “ Swarming of.... 00... ...3815
Bee-bread in drone Cells..... ........45 94
Bee-charms
Bee-houses........
a Unprofitable. aiaiee Se
Beemoth......
Bee-pasturage.. a
BOOS, JASE Ole cance vierigg aie etme. de
“Anger of.,
“Battles of .,
Renn ee .. 121
Before young commence labor.. 26
“Black, for nurses.......
“ Burying...
paper pene
“Examination of.
“Weeding of........
“For raising queens.
Sf HOUSIN gS cc eweae sees
“How they attack..
us “to get rid of.
* Improvement of..
“ Injuring grain.....
“In moth-webs.....
“« Tsauing..... ted
“Lost on snow.....
“Manner of feeding. “Tah, 123, 127, 129
“Nature of. .... secs di daweaiendene + 20
“Necessary to insure a crop, . OL
“Necessities of.
“ Paralyzing....
“Protection against....... .
“ Rough treatment of young .
* Sagacity of.......... wine @ODy 264
“ Starvation of, in winter.
“Sting of..... nanene ngs
“Swarming of....... ..
“Terms applied to young
“ Transferring.. ..
“ “
advantages of.
“Transporting...
“Warm room for,
*‘ Water for oes
“When boxes are taken off,
“When no swarm issues.
“ Wintering...
aK ee after scarcity
0.
Straw-hive for
“With dysentery........
Bottom board, Inclined..
Box, Making holes in when fall,
Simple saceses shar titted on
Boxes, Advantage of glass... .....
INDEX. B45
Boxes, Putting onand taking off.......185 ; Drone eggs, Theories about unimpreg-
“Too easy of access.......... .5 {38 mated vo... piesa pttigie a 389, 40
“To prevent queen entering... .189 a “When laid, . 36
“ Transterred....... ..193 | Drone layers..... oc 6, 37
“When to take off. .1f0 | Drones....,. 19
Breeding and physlology.... 22 “Ago of. 20
He In large and small colonie
Brood, Best time for...
““ Diseased.......
ae 4 cause and remedy..... 212
a ae description of...
sy a examination of........ 218
se at Mr. Wagner's view of..217
“When they begin to rear,
Buekwheat........6..e0ee
For ee queen
“ Uniformity of......
Cephalanthus occidentalis.
Chamber hive. .
Cherry, Wild.....
Chickens eat drones.
Clustering: PUSHES nissccaicencn ies aes
Colonies, Deserting when clestitute.
s Inclined to rob. ..
ss Selecting for winter.
Conclusion
Comb. Commencement of...
“Constructed as needed.
“Crooked.
“* Cause and remedy.............. 212
“Description Of... .......ee eee’ iL
Manner of spreading. 216
Mr. Wagner's view of.
Diseased brood, Knowledge of.
Drone and worker-combs.
Drone cells
Drone-combs, Too many............+ ree
1*
“Colony for.
“Destroyed befor c swat ming
Eaten by chickens...
Theories r elative to,
“When met by queen. 29
“When reared..........6, 33
“Why sometimes killed
Dysentery among De@eS.........0022 ee oe 287
E
Eggs, Number laid by queen
“Of drones, When laid....
“When they hatch
Rr
Object of.
BY Promiscuou
ey When best..
ae tefuse honey,.
Flowers of fruits........
ef Yielding pollen first
Fruit flowers, Important.
Fumigator,
Glass boxes, Advantage of. .
Hamameelis Virginiana...........25.005 86
Hive, Accessibility of. . + 265,
Chamber,...... ~ 49
W CNANZEADI Css icccsesscsenss sewrs 51
“Common box..
“ Dividing..... : -. 50
“ Farmer's.. .... 7
“ In cold weather...
“ Ttalianizing the box.
“ Moth-proof.......
“Movable comb..
“ - How.made.
or es “ To use...171, 191, 194
“ Non-swaymer . 55
“Observatory...
“ Of straw, for winter
346
Hive, Proper size of.......
“Setting out.
““ Suspended.........
“Top of, not fastened
“ Ventilating.....
HIMES. ucasesreisareieoy
Best cover for.. A aaieia Sis
“ Certificates and premiums for....
“ Cheap stand for........... sida
“ Desirabilities of ..
Discovery about .
“ Furnished for tria
‘“* Housed for winter..
Making holes in when full.
“No patent for............ say
“ Of different colors
“ Principles of..
Remedy when crowded
Setting out.... ..
Shade for...
“ Should be ready
“ Space between
Straw..
“ Too high..
With inclined bottoms........
BS VO BMASUN is disvieanenniswtes é
Hoarhound ...
Hollyhock.
Honey- boxes
“
Transferred .
Toney and wax, Straining...
“ — Best season for.
« — Discharging......
Distance bees will go for.
“Feeding refuse......
“From buckwheat.
From one swarm...
“In boxes in the hive.
“In cells for daily us
“Principal sources of..
“Substitute for...
Phe APsboss ssa
“To secure from worms
Honey-dew..........
Honeysuckle, Bush.
I
MMO ANCHOR Yeisen: araanediingewere nw
K
King-bird, A word for......cece eee ee 229
L
RDEV oss cissereies suas ties 2h 227
2h
. 80
ai8t
Linaria vulgaris........ ncaleis i aee eae reese wy BY
INDEX.
Linden......
Liriodendron Taliptfera
Locust..
M
Making box-hives
* honey-boxes.
“movable comb-hives.
Mallows......
Marrubium vulgare.
Metheglin and vinegar,
Milkweed, Singular fatality of...
Moth....
“
Where deposits its eggs. wai Gis
Moth-proof hives. seawa natant
Moth- NORIO, Destruction OLS s «die,
pounds in best stocks.
In centre of comb
In old stocks
a Troubles small colonies. .181
Motherwort.......... wre . 80
Mustard...... 84
N
Nepeta Catavia........ cccseseeneesen ees 80
Nymph,.....- imedemigaens Tap emEgarde see
oe
Ox-eye, Daisy..... staatsauamen: didpetarosheaiosirare BL
P
Pasturage for DC@S......... 0... eee seeee 6
Physiology and breeding. 22
Plant louse
Pollen, flowers yielding first....
“Manner of discharging
“Manner of packing......
“Substitute for...... ny
Two kinds in one cell.
Populus tremuloides......
Propolis........... areal
“Abundance of.
“Wax instead o.
POUND Es as0cei 54 ve
Prunus scrotina
Pupa...,
INDEX,
Q
Queen, Age and office Of. ...... eee 18
Description of, 17
“Finding black +823
“Introduction of.. +2829
“Maturing of.......... vais
“Number of eggs will lay
One destroys others...
Regard of workers for.........
“ — Similarity ofeggs with worker.,
“Time to lay eggs.
“Transporting the..
“When the old leaves..
“Young takes place of the ‘old
ONC ac ssisinrwoewnencsea aieieauon
Queen-cells, Introduction of.
4 ATtficial escneccigscs
“Black bees nurses for
Queens, cells for rearing.......
Destroyed before swarming.
“Loss of and remedy,
“Mixing of.........
“Obtaining bees fo!
Ovaries of...........
+201, 208
Replacing........
“Time of leaving...
R
Rats and imice..... .... .
Red Clover...
Med Raspberry...
Removing combs.
Renewing combs.
Reseda odorata.
Rhus glabra...
Robbers, when to look out for.
“ First indication of.
os Remedies for.....
Robbing, Not understood.
aS Difficulty in decid
ae Weak colonies in danger of. 115
Robinia Psendacia....... oe 9.
Rubus strigosus.. . 80
yumex Acetosella
Silkweed, Singular fatallty o
Sinapls nigra...
Spiders
Stand for hives, Chea
Sting of bee..........
Stings, Remedy for...
Stocks, Causes of weaknes
Swarms, After, uniting......
“o
Swarm-clustcrs.
Swarm, honey from on
SWAPMING oe ssiecereesesved
How many to keep..
Old not + apabsan
Purchasing. . i
Requisites of.
Uniting.......
How to do it.
of Italian or Ligurian bee. 315
Preparations for.
When commences.,
troublesom
* pole forsee.
“how issuing......
“number of queens of. 9
“not choosing weather..179
179
“leaving parent hive...
“to return them...
“ size of, etc...
Artificial. ...... Bierce
i perplexities with,...
* work well............ 186
se first experience with.186
_ how to make...... « 183
% placing stands for. ,.189
BS queen-cell for.......190
Ae drone-combs for....191
a with movable combs
Clustering eae for. .
Driving in cold weather.
First enough.........
How far they will go
How to divide........ ee
How to keep separate ....... 166
Loss of, by flight..........., 165
348
“
when expcctec
a Selecting a home.....
ef Shade important for.....
o Should all be made to enter. .159
en Sometimes return,.........+-- 173
ay Times of issuing........-..++ 177
- To divide in moyable comb-
NIVEB. cc cceesiececcnecvaarsenae 17
a To put in movable comb-
hives..... meaieaglmectscen w+ ++ -160
st TIRILED viccssnsicsies: asus
ss Water necessary for.
j When on the wing.
* When they issue
Swedish white Clover or Alsike
Symphoricarpus feetidus......... peeaaie 1B
T
Theory, Mr. Wagner's, of drone-eggs... 89
“Mr, Harbison’s, do
Tilia Americana..
Toad.........+ ate
Toad-flax
Transferring bees
Transporting bees.
“e QUEEN si cnimawniexeunmeuan 332
Vv
Vinegar and metheglin............ vee RBI | Wren, Box for.
INDEX.
Ww
Warmtn.. ..... seme
Wasp, black...
“Abundance of...
“ Honey consumed for
“ How obtained.....
“ Instead of propoli:
“Making
“ Wasted.
White clover...
White-wood....... ciogaiayaienstaketsyetecersiiysIS 83
Witch-hazel, Unusual secretion of.
WALOWS veaiiisiacedetceneaeeties Sere 78, 85
“Golden sHgahisann
Wintering bees......... on
ee “ Building for. ‘
“ “ Straw-hives for.... ... -B
Worker and queen-eggs. .
1 GIZEKOLs 200
Worms, How they get in.
“In centre of com
‘In hives..... ei
“Remedy for..
of To secure honey trom
THE
GRAPE CULTURIST:
A TREATISE
ON THE
CULTIVATION OF THE NATIVE GRAPE
BY
ANDREW S. FULLER,
Practical Worticulturigt, Brooklyn, WN. ¥.
SEVENTH THOUSAND.
NEW-YORK:
ORANGE JUDD & CO., 41 PARK ROW.
1866.
THE
ILLUSTRATED
STRAWBERRY CULTURIST:
CONTAINING THE
HISTORY, SEXUALITY, FIELD AND GARDEN CULTURE OF STRAWBERRIES,
FORCING OR POT CULTURE, HOW TO GROW FROM SEED, HYBRIDIZ-
ING; RESULTS OF EXTENSIVE EXPERIMENTS WITH SEEDLINGS,
AND ALL OTHER INFORMATION N¥OESSARY TO ENABLE EVERYBODY TO RAISE THEIR
OWN STRAWBERRIES ; TOGETHER WITH A FULL DESCRIPTION OF NEW
VARIETIES AND A LIST OF THE BEST OF THE OLD SORTS.
WITH RECEIPTS FOR
DIFFERENT MODES OF PRESERVING, COOKING, AND PREPARING STRAW:
BERRIES FOR THE TABLE.
FULLY ILLUSTRATED BY
Hew and Valunble Gugrabings.
By ANDREW S. FULLER,
Borticulturist,
TENTH THOUSAND.
Bonbtless God could have made a better berry, but doubtless God never did,—IzAau WALTON,
NEW-YORK:
ORANGE JUDD & CO., 41 PARK ROW.
1866
AMERICAN
CATTLE DOCTOR;
CONTAINING
THE NECESSARY INFORMATION
FoR
PRESERVING THE HEALTH AND CURING THE DISEASES
OF
OXEN, COWS, SHEEP, AND SWINE,
WITIL
A GREAT VARIETY OF ORIGINAL RECIPES,
AND
VALUABLE INFORMATION IN REFERENCE TO
FARM AND DAIRY MANAGEMENT ;
WHEREBY
EVERY MAN CAN BE HIS OWN CATTLE DOCTOR.
THE PRINCIPLES TAUGHT IN THIS WORK ARE, THAT ALL MEDICATION SHALY
BE SUBSERVIENT TO NATURE; THAT ALL MEDICINAL AGENTS MUST BRE
SANATIVE IN THEIR OPERATION, AND ADMINISTERED WITH A
VIEW OF AIDING THE VITAL POWERS, INSTEAD OF DE-
PRESSING, AS HERETOFORE, WITH THE LANCET
AND POISON.
BY
G. H. DADD, M.D, VETERINARY PRACTITIONER,
AUTHOR OF “ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY OF THE HORSE.”
e
NEW-YORK :
ORANGE JUDD & CoO.,
Wo. 41 PARK ROW.
1866,
PHAR CULTURE.
A MANUAL.
FOR THE
PROPAGATION, PLANTING, CULTIVATION,
AND MANAGEMENT
OF
THE PEAR TREE.
WITH
DESCRIPTIONS AND ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE MOST PRODUCTIVE
OF THE FINER VARIETIES, AND SELECTIONS OF KINDS
MOST PROFITABLY GROWN FOR MARKET.
BY
THOS. W. FIELD.
No marble dumb, or crumbling tomb shall rear
Upon the cheek of Beauty, and the Peach, Their pale chill walls o’er me. The tree I plan
Haye common source and end. Tho Dust Shall monument my dust—itaelf the tree,
The nodding flower, the Elm, Refined in leaf, and fruit, and flower: that when
The immaterial part pute matter on
Again, it ia more fit for Heaven.
fur golden-dropping Pear, the reddening glow
We till, we are,
Arching in cloisters and in vaulted aisles,
Are man, or boast, or worm, in other forms,
NEW-YORK:
ORANGE JUDD & CO., 41 PARK ROW.
1866.
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