Buck Whaley's Memoirs : including his journey to Jerusalem

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Buck Whaley's Memoirs

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Buck Whaley's Memoirs

INCLUDING HIS JOURNEY TO
JERUSALEM

WRITTEN BY HIMSELF IN 1 797 AND NOW FIRST PUBLISHED
FROM THE RECENTLY RECOVERED MANUSCRIPT

Edited, with Introduction and Notes,

BY

Sir EDWARD SULLIVAN, Bart.

LONDON

ALEXANDER MORING LTD

THE DE LA MORE PRESS

32 GEORGE STREET HANOVER SQUARE W

MCMVI

PREFACE.

The manuscript Memoirs of Thomas Whaley, now
first published, are known to have been in existence ever
since 1800, the year in which the writer died. They
are mentioned in an obituary notice of him which
appeared in The Gentleman's Magazine at the time, but
they are supposed to have passed out of the hands of
the family some forty or fifty years ago,i since which time
the place of their disposal has been a mystery, and even
their existence a matter of considerable doubt. The
unknown owners had been appealed to from time to time,
by persons interested in the social history of Ireland
during the latter portion of the eighteenth century, to
make their contents public,'' but such suggestions do not
seem to have reached the ears of those for whom they
were intended.

Some little time ago, by a lucky accident, I happened
to purchase in a London auction room what I recognised
to be an interesting example of Irish binding, in the
characteristic style of decoration common in Dublin at
the close of the eighteenth Century, consisting of two
handsome 4to volumes of manuscript bound in red
morocco, inlaid and tooled in gold, and lettered on the
back " Travels by T. W.'"

1 Diet. Nat. Biog., sub Whaley (Thomas).

^ See Fitzpatrick, Ireland before the Union, p. 79, «., and ^ates and
Queries, 3rd Series, ii. 314. ' See Illustration.

vi PREFACE.

After investigation of the contents — in which I was
materially assisted by Mr. Henry F. Berry, I.S.O., of the
Public Record Office, Dublin (to whom I am indebted for
much other valuable aid and information) — I discovered
that these volumes were the original manuscript Memoirs
of Thomas Whaley so long missing, and which, as I have
learned from enquiries since made, seem to have been for
many years passing from hand to hand amongst English
book-collectors, their preservation in all probability being
attributable rather to their gold-tooled covers than to the
more or less anonymous story which they contained.

The work was obviously compiled with a view to
publication during the lifetime of the writer, who refers
to his intention to publish it by subscription ;^ but the
statement which has been made in many quarters, that
the author had left directions to his executors to print
the Memoirs, is not supported by anything to be found
in his will, which may be seen at the Public Record
Office in Dublin.

The work is in all likelihood in the handwriting of
an amanuensis, being written throughout in copper-plate
of an extremely clear and readable type ; and the whole
is in an excellent state of preservation. The contents are,
however, in a sense wrijten anonymously, the lettered
title on the backs of the bound volumes being merely
" Travels by T. W.," while on the written title-page
within the author describes himself by initials only, and
in the body of the work the identity of the principal
persons mentioned is sought to be concealed in a like
way. There is one remarkable instance, however, where
the writer lays the mask aside, and where his name and
that of his fellow-traveller, Hugh Moore, appear in full.
1 See post, p. 107.

PREFACE. vii

This is in the copy of the Certificate given to him by
the Superior of the Convent at Nazareth which bears
writness to his having visited that city in March, 1789.'
Whaley's sudden death at an early age may have inter-
fered with the publication of the Memoirs, but the idea
of making them public does not seem to have been
abandoned even after his death, for there are many indi-
cations in the manuscripts themselves which strongly
support the theory that the first volume at least was
prepared for the printer. In it are found occasional
erasures, while other words have been superadded in a
different hand, obviously with a view to toning down
some personal revelations which were calculated to hurt
the surviving members of the family. I shall have
occasion later on to refer to these alterations in greater
detail, as the necessity for making them will be better
understood after a perusal of the main incidents of
Whaley's life and travels.

Thomas Whaley, in Ireland commonly known as
Buck, or Jerusalem Whaley, was born in Dublin on the
15th December, 1766.'' He was the eldest surviving
son of Richard Chapell Whaley, of Whaley Abbey,
CO. Wicklow, and of Dublin, M.P. for co. Wicklow,
1747-60, a man of considerable property and of ancient
descent, whose ancestors had settled in Ireland in the
time of Oliver Cromwell, to whom, indeed, two of them
were closely related.' This Richard Chapell Whaley

1 See post, p. 224.

2 His own statement at p. 8 pat that he was born in 1768 is obviously
an error. It does not fit in with other statements which he makes
elsewhere, nor with the inscription on his tombstone. See p. xxviii.

' The pedigree of the Whaley family, so far as I have been able to
extract it from the many conflicting statements found in the authorities
quoted at the end of this note, seems to have been as on next page : —

VllI

PREFACE.

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PREFACE. ix

was twice married ; first, in 1727, to Catherine, daughter
of Robert Armitage, who died without issue ; and
secondly, in 1759, when at an advanced age, to Anne,

Henry Whaley, son of Edward the Regicide, came to Ireland in 1658
with a letter of introduction from Oliver Cromwell to Henry Cromwell,
then Lord Deputy. The original is in the possession of Mr. John Whaley
of Annsboro, co. Kildare.

Letter from Oliver Cromwell^ Lard Protector.

** Harry Cromwell — I write not often to you. Now I think my selfe
ingaged to my deare Cousin Whaley to lay my comands upon you that
you shew all lovinge respect to his eldest sonn, by his present Ladye,
whom you are to receave in the room of his eldest brother both into his
comand and into your affection. I assure you though hee bee soe neerly
to us as you know, yett I would not importune on his behalfe soe heartily
as now I can upon the scoare of his owne worth, w*^"* indeed is as remark-
able as I believe in any of ten thousand of his yeares. Hee is excellent in
the Latine, ffrench, and Italiane toungues, of good other learninge w***
partes suitable, and (w*=** compleates this testimonie) is hopefully seasoned
with religious principles, lett him be much w'^ you, and use him as yr
owne. being most serious in this desire, and expecting a suitable returne
there unto,

" I rest your lovinge Father

« Oliver P.

" my love to your deare wife
and to the two babes.

"June I, 1658.

"(Endorsed) i June 1658. His Highness c^nserning; Capt. Whaly."

The reasons for the advancement of Henry Whaley " in the room of
his eldest brother" (John) will be found on referring to the Calendar of
State Papers^ Ireland^ where documents are given from which it appears
that Capt. John Whaley, a few days before the date of the above letter,
had incurred the Protector's displeasure by fighting a duel with the Earl
of Chesterfield, in consequence of which both combatants were committed
to the Tower. The Petition of Capt. Whaley, dated 15th June, 1658,
to Cromwell, contains a touching reference to the writer's recent marriage :
" [He] would submit to his confinement were he alone concerned, but he
has newly entered into a condition wherein his suffering will as nearly
become another's affliction as his own and is anxious to avoid the un-
happiness which a longer separation may produce."

Another document set out in the State Papers {Ireland^ 1647- 1660.
Addenda^ p. 700), mentions him as " being displaced for deboistnesse."

Many members of the Whaley family are described in contemporary
records as being interested as Adventurers in the double ordinance and as
getting grants of land in Ireland. Henry Whaley, the Judge Advocate,
in this way became seized of several denominations of land in the liberties
of Galway and also in the barony and liberties of Athenry, for which his

X PREFACE.

daughter of the Rev. Bernard Ward, then a lady of
eighteen. The offspring of the second marriage were :
(i) Richard Chapell, who died young.
(2) Thomas, the writer of the Memoirs.
1(3) John, who married, ist. Lady Anne Meade,
daughter of John, Earl of Clanwilliam ; and
2nd, Mary Anne, daughter of John Richard-
son. John Whaley died 1847. ^'^ ^°" ^Y
his second wife, John Richard William,
married Louisa, daughter of Dr. Townsend,
late Bishop of Meath.

(4) William, a Lieutenant-Colonel in the army,

died 1843.

(5) Susanna, who married Sir James Stewart, Bart.,

of Fort Stewart.

(6) Anne, who in 1786 married Right Hon. John

Fitzgibbon, afterwards Earl of Clare and Lord
Chancellor of Ireland. She died 13 Jan., 1844.

(7) Sophia, who married Hon. Robert Ward, son of

Lord Bangor.
Richard Chapell Whaley 's Dublin residence was at
first No. y-/ (now No. 87), St. Stephen's Green, South ;

son John, after his father's death, passed patent under the Acts of Settle-
ment (Lodge, Peerage of Ireland, vi. 71).

I have not been able to discover the relationship, if any, of Richard
Whaley (husband of Eliz''. Chappell) to Cromwell's cousins, but he may
well have been connected with them. Sir Walter Scott erroneously refers
to the Regicide Whaley as Richard (Peveril of the Peak, Cadell's Ed.,
1838, p. 266 and note).

See Noble's Memoirs of the Protectorate-House of Cromwell ; The Visi-
tations of the County of^ Nottingham, 1569 and 1614 (Harleian Soc^. Publi-
cations, 1871); Familia Minorum Gentium,vo\. iv. (Harl. Soc^) ; Lodge's
Peerage of Ireland (Atchdsde), vol. vi. ; Sir Wm. Betham's MS. Pedit^rees
Brit. Mus. ; Do. MS. Pedigrees in Ulster's Office, Dublin ; MS. Fisita'-
tion of Nottinghamsheire, by S'. Rich''. St. george N" King of Arms in 1 6 14,
Brit. Mus. (Harl.) i Nichol's Leicestershire, ii. 736; Calendar of State Papers,
Ireland, 1650-1660, /■asi/m ; and Notes and ^eries, ^th Series, iii. 501 ■
5th Series, v. 463-4; vii. 8r ; viii. 177 and 358. '

PREFACE. xi

and while he was in occupation of this house, Sir John
Meade, first Lord Clanwilliam, came into the neighbour-
hood, and built himself a new mansion (now No. 85),
which seems to have stirred the envy of Whaley. The
latter thereupon purchased the piece of ground lying
between them, boasting (according to tradition) that he
would build something to make his noble neighbour's
house look no better than a pigstye in comparison. The
house he commenced to build, but did not live to finish,
was the mansion illustrated at page xi., and which also
appears in the right-hand distance in the view of the
Beaux Walk at page xv. Being unfinished at the time
of his death, it was by will bequeathed to his " dear wife
Anne," directions being left to his executors to complete
the building. It was occupied by one member or another
of the family up to the year 1853, when, some little time
after the death of John Whaley, it became the property
of Cardinal Cullen, and is now the Catholic University
of Ireland. The artistic decorations of its interior still
retain much of their original magnificence.

It is said that Richard Chapell Whaley acquired
during his lifetime the sobriquet of Burn-Chapell Whaley
from the number of Roman Catholic churches he had
helped to destroy by fire — an assertion which is to
some extent confirmed bv a periodical publication which
appeared twenty years after his death.' A more harmless
instance of his peculiarities is afforded by a very singular

^ Tirwn and Country Magazine., 1789, P- 9. "The father of our hero
["The Jerusalem Pilgrim"] was honoured with a commission of the
peace, and in consequence of the proclamation became a furious perse-
cutor of the Popish ecclesiastics. In one of his priest-hunting excursions
it happened that, by firing a fowling-piece, he lodged the wadding in the
thatch of a Romish chapel, which [led to his being] notoriously known
by the name of Burn-Chapel till the day of his death."

xii PREFACE.

cheque which he once drew on La Touche's Bank in
favour of his wife — probably the only example of such a
document ever written in rhyme.

" Mr. La Touche,
Open your pouch,
And give unto my darling
Five hundred pounds sterling :
For which this will be your bailey.
Signed, Richard Chapell Whaley."

Richard Chapell Whaley died about the 1 6th
January, 1769,^ leaving his young widow and seven
children surviving. About two years after, the widow
married a Mr. John Richardson of Dublin.*

Young Thomas Whaley upon his father's death
became entitled, as he mentions in the Memoirs, to
estates worth ;/^7,ooo a year, together with a sum of
jr6o,ooo in cash,' the other members of the family
being at the same time amply provided for. He re-
mained at school until he was sixteen, when, with a view
to completing his education, his mother sent him to
France, with an allowance of jC9°"^ ^ year, under the
charge of a tutor, a gentleman of education who had
been in the army, but who had been obliged to sell his
commission to pay his debts, and who proved but " an
indifferent mentor," to a lad such as Whaley was,
possessed of what was then a vast fortune, extravagant in
his ideas, impracticable in all matters of business, in-
tolerant of any kind of moral restraint, and a gambler
and libertine to boot.

After a short but riotous experience of life in France,

' Skater's Gazeteer of i6th to i8th Jan., 1769 : "In Stephen's Green,
at an advanced age, Richard Chapell Whaley, Esq."

^ The marriage license is dated 7th Dec, 1770. ' See post, p. 9.

PREFACE. xiii

fully described in the following pages, young Whaley
returned to Dublin, where he seems to have plunged
with a natural relish into the vortex of bravado and
extravagance which distinguished the world of high life
in the Irish capital at the time. To appreciate the
utterly reckless nature of his conduct at this period and
after, it should be remembered that the character of
Ireland was then an anomaly in the moral world. Any
approach to the habits of the industrious classes by an
application to trade or business, or even a profession, was
considered a degradation to a gentleman, and the upper
orders of society affected a most rigid exclusiveness."
Lawlessness of every kind was rampant in the metropolis.
The few miserable watchmen, to whom the keeping of
good order amongst the citizens was entrusted, were
utterly inefficient for any purpose of protection, and
looked on in terror at the many conflicts which were
perpetually being waged by day and night in the streets.
Notable amongst the gentry of the time was a class
called " Bucks," whose whole enjoyment and the busi-
ness of whose life seemed to consist in eccentricity
and violence. Many of their names have come down
to us, as Buck English,' Buck Sheehy and various
others.

Some of the Bucks associated together under the
name of the Hell-Fire Club, and from their head-

' Ireland Sixty Tears Ago, John E. Walshe, Master of the Rolls in
Ireland. Dublin, 1847.

^ This English was one of the most extraordinary characters of his
day. Amongst other achievements he fought two duels, in both of which
he killed his antagonist. On one occasion he killed a waiter at an inn in
England, and had him charged in the bill at ;^50. — Huish (Robt.)
Memoirs of George the Fourth, Lond., 1831, i. p. 405. See Barrington's
Personal Sketches, ii. 8. For a description of Bucks, Macaronis, Jessa-
mies, etc., see Ashton, Old Times, p. 53, seq.

xiv PREFACE.

quarters at Kilakee on the hills outside Dublin in nightly
revels defied both God and man.'

" Lucas's," the celebrated cofFee-house, was then a
favourite resort of the idle and wealthy, and was par-
ticularly patronised by Bucks whose intolerable insolence
was shown to all persons of lower rank than themselves.

Another gathering-place for the aristocracy and
Members of Parliament was Daly's Club in College
Green, where extravagant scenes of gambling and dissi-
pation were constantly being enacted. In this, the most
famous establishment of its kind in Ireland, it is said
that the shutters were occasionally closed at noon that
gambling might go on by candle-light ; and it was no
uncommon occurrence to see one of the players, suspected
of cheating, being flung from an upper window into the
street. The club-house was rebuilt in 1791, and on so
luxurious a scale as to excite the surprise and admiration
of travellers who visited Ireland.''

The first Irish State Lottery was drawn in 1782," an
occurrence which naturally added fuel to the fire of
speculation which was already burning pretty brightly at
this period amongst high and low : while, as an addi-
tional incentive to immorality and degradation, the
hideous spectacles afforded by public executions provided
constant amusement for a mob whose love of drink and
devilment was only surpassed by their social superiors.

' The Dublin Hell-fire Club does not seem to have been open to the
admission of lady members, a privilege which was allowed occasionally in
similar institutions in England. — See Mrs. Delany's Autobiography and
Correspondence^ vi, 162.

'^ "The god of cards and dice has a temple, called Daly's, dedicated to
his honour in Dublin, much more magnificent than any temple to be
found in that city dedicated to the God of the Universe." — Extract from
a writer in 1794 quoted in Gilbert's History of Dublin^ iii., 39.

' At the Opera-house, Capel Street, on 24th June.

PREFACE. XV

Such was the metropolis of Ireland at the time when
Burns was writing,

" As sure's the deil's In hell,
Or Dublin City;"

and to such surroundings young Whaley returned after a
preliminary course of extravagance and dissipation in a
foreign country where vicious habits of every kind were,
if anything, more common than at home. It was
probably about this time that he won his spurs as a Buck.
He does not himself mention the names of his Irish
boon companions in the orgies that went on nightly in
his Dublin house ' — but from other sources it is known
that he was on terms of close intimacy with Francis
Higgins, the notorious Sham Squire, and with Lord
Clonmell, and that the three were frequently to be seen
disporting themselves on the Beaux Walk in Stephen's
Green during the hours in which persons of fashion in
Dublin were accustomed to take the air. By all accounts.
Buck Whaley must have presented a striking figure on
such occasions. Amongst others, his brother-in-law.
Lord Cloncurry, writing in 1849, describes him as having
been " a perfect specimen of the Irish gentleman of the
olden time." He had not, however, yet reached this high
level of good looks when the portrait was painted which
I am enabled to reproduce through the kindness of
Mr. John Whaley of Annsboro, co. Kildare. This was
apparently taken when he was still a boy.'

^ Buck Whaley was never the owner of the mansion in St. Stephen's
Green, which remained the property of his mother until her death, when
it passed to her then eldest surviving son, John Whaley.

' What purports to be a portrait of Whaley at a later date, by the
name of " The Jerusalem Pilgrim," will be found at p. 9 of the Town and
Country Magazine for 1789, and beside it a representation of a London
Fille de Chambre^ whose history is given in the accompanying article. She
may possibly be the female acquaintance mentioned at pp. 33 — 37 of the
Memoirs.

xvi PREFACE.

On the loth of February, 1785, when he was only
eighteen years old, he was elected a member of the Irish
House of Commons,' taking his seat for Newcastle in
the county of Dublin, which place he represented until
1790. At a later date, in 1797, he was elected for
Enniscorthy ; and continued M.P. until his death in
1800. It is a curious feature of his Memoirs that he has
extremely little to say in reference to his parliamentary
life ; but it is possible that he paid but small attention
to his duties as a legislator so long as there was anything
else to offer attractions of a more diverting kind ; and as
a matter of fact he was absent from Ireland for a con-
siderable portion of the time during which he had a seat
in the Irish House.

It was at this period of his career that the well-known
journey to Jerusalem was undertaken. It originated in a
jest, and ended in a large and serious wager. Being at
dinner one day at the Duke of Leinster's ^ with some
people of fashion, Whaley was asked by one of the
company to what part of the world he meant to direct
his course next. " To Jerusalem," he answered without
hesitation. It was suggested by some present that there
was no such place then existing ; others questioned the
possibility of his getting there even if it were still in
existence ; whereupon Whaley " offered to bet any sum "
that he would go to Jerusalem and return to Dublin within
two years from his departure. Within the next few
days he had fifteen thousand pounds depending on the
result.'

1 See post, p. 276.

^ See post, pp. 34-5.

^ It has frequently been stated that it was a condition of the bet that
the journey should be performed on foot, except where it was absolutely
necessary to make a sea passage. There is no mention of any such

PREFACE. xvii

He set out for Deal on the 20th September,
1788, where he was joined by a friend, Captain
Wilson ; and from that port on the 7th October
he commenced his memorable journey on board the
London.

At Gibraltar he met another friend and countryman.
Captain Hugh Moore, who was then about to return to
England on leave. Whaley however prevailed upon
him to alter his plans, and he consented to join the
expedition.^ Captain Wilson was prevented from con-
tinuing the journey beyond Smyrna owing to a rheumatic
attack.'' Whaley and Moore left Smyrna for St. Jean
d'Acre on the 3rd of February, 1789, on board the
Heureuse Marie, and reached Jerusalem on the 28th of the
same month. They arrived again in Dublin in June or

stipulation by Whaley himself, or by Capt. Moore, his fellow-traveller;
and, as a feet, the greater portion of the trip was accomplished on ship-
board. The fiction as to playing ball against the walls of Jerusalem
seems also to have been the outcome of exaggeration, although Whaley's
brother-in-law, Lord Cloncurry, repeats the story in the traditional form.
— See Personal Recollections. In Hook*s Gurney Married, vol. i., p. 146,
ed. 1838, occurs the sentence; **I should as soon think of walking
to Jerusalem, as Parson Whalley did in my father's time." T. Ciofton
Croker, in his Memoirs of Joseph Holt, General of the Irish Rebels in
1 798, appends a long note in reference to Buck Whaley's performances,
which I include in the Appendix.

^ Hugh Moore, Whaley's travelling-companion on the journey to Jeru-
salem and back, of Eglantine House and Mount Panther, co. Down, Captain
in the 5th Dragoon Guards, was a descendant of a very old Scotch family,
the Muires of Rowallane in Ayrshire, his first ancestor in Ireland being a
colonel in the army of William III., who obtained a grant of land in
Ulster. He was the eldest son of Mr. John Moore of Clough, and
Deborah, daughter of Mr. Robert Isaac of Holywood. He raised, and
was Colonel of, the Eglantine Yeomanry during the Irish Rebellion of
1798, at which time he served as A.D.C. to General Needham. He
married a daughter of Mr. Robert Armitage of Kensington, and died
29th July, 1848, aged 86. — See Knox's History of County Down and
Burke's Landed Gentry (Moore of Rowallane).
' See post, p. 54.

xviii PREFACE.

July, 1789, and their return was celebrated by the lighting
of bonfires through the city by the excited populace.i
Whaley then " produced such incontestable proofs of
having accomplished his arduous undertaking " that his
friends were obliged reluctantly to pay him a sum of
fifteen thousand pounds.'' This left him seven thousand
pounds to the good after defraying the expenses of the
expedition ; " the only instance," to use his own words,
" in all my life before in which any of my projects
turned out to my advantage."' He remained in Dublin
upwards of two years, engaged largely in gambling, only
to find in the end that there was a considerable balance
against him.

Speaking of these years, he says, " It was at this
period I happily formed an acquaintance with a lady of
exquisite taste and sensibility, from whom I have never
since separated. She has been a consolation to me in all
my troubles, her persuasive mildness has been a constant
check on the impetuosity of my temper, and at this
moment constitutes, in my retirement, the principal
source of all my felicity." She was a Miss Courtney ; *
and she lived with Whaley up to the time of her death,
which took place when he was resident in the Isle
of Man.

Having gone the round of such amusements as
Ireland could afford, he opened house in London,
" bought horses and carriages, subscribed to all the
fashionable clubs, and was in a short time a complete
man of the ton at the West End of the town."

^ Dublin Evening Past, July 23, 1789.
^ See post, p. 270.
' See past, p. 270.

' Knutiford: its Traditions and History, by Rev. Henry Green (Man-
chester, 1887), author of Shakspert and the Emblem Writers.

PREFACE. xix

A restless curiosity next led him to Paris, where the
Revolution was then in progress. His experiences in the
French capital at that dangerous time are highly in-
teresting, and are detailed with his usual openness.
From thence he returned to DubHn, but only for the
purpose of selling an estate, which brought him twenty-
five thousand pounds. " Having paid some debts and
made a few necessary purchases," he went back to Paris
with fourteen thousand pounds in his pocket, and again
plunged into the old life.

A journey to Switzerland followed, in the course of
which he made the acquaintance of William Beckford,
the author of Vathek, who was then living in luxurious
seclusion at Lausanne, and also Edward Gibbon, the
historian of The Decline and Fall of the Roman 'Empire.
He gives some interesting particulars concerning both.
Later on, after having spent some time in Italy, he
returned to Paris, where he remained until after the trial
and death of Louis XVL Here, in the interests of
safety, he was obliged to part company with his lady
companion. War was about to be declared between
England and France, and her position was' one of much
danger and apprehension. After many difficulties she
made her escape to England for the purpose of procuring
money for her protector, who was now reduced to some-
thing approaching impecuniosity. He himself remained
in Paris, to be involved shortly afterwards in a hostile
meeting with Count Arthur Dillon, whom he had openly
accused of having swindled him at play. Later on he
escaped from the French capital, and after some perilous
adventures reached Br\issels in safety.

' See post, p. ag4, seq.

C 2

XX PREFACE.

Making his way from thence to Calais, he awaited
the return of his " dear companion " from England.
After a period of anxious delay the packet-boat at length
appeared off the coast, and he was enabled with help of
his glass to see Miss Courtney on board. The munici-
pality however refused to admit the vessel into the
harbour, and he had the mortification of seeing the ship
put about, without being able to send his friend even a
letter, for the conveyance of which he had offered a large
reward. Further difficulties met him on his way to
Ostend, which he reached eventually in disguise.

Here, after a delay of some ten days, he had the
satisfaction to see the British flag flying on a ship in the
harbour, and recognizing some old friends among the
officers, he was supplied with sufficient money to take
him to Dover. After a series of baffling disappointments
and romantic episodes he at length overtook his
" Euridyce," with whom he returned to London, only to
find himself a little while later the inmate of a debtors'
prison. From this unpleasant position, after an ineffectual
attempt at gaol-breaking, he was released by his brother-
in-law, the Irish Lord Chancellor, who happened to be
in town at the time. " Determined," as he says, " not to
stay another hour in London," Whaley then set out for
Dublin. Here he disposed of all his remaining estates
for the discharge of his personal debts, and with the
surplus, which amounted to about five thousand pounds,
true to the spirit of gambling to which he had always
been a ready slave, he resolved to try his fortune at play,
and either retrieve himself or complete his ruin. " The
latter," he says, " was my fate, for in one winter I lost
ten thousand pounds, which obliged me to sell all my
own jewels, and those I had given to my companion in

PREFACE. xxi

better days : so that in the course of a few years I
dissipated a fortune of near four hundred thousand
pounds, and contracted debts to the amount of thirty
thousand more, without ever purchasing or acquiring
contentment or one hour's true happiness."'

He retired shortly afterwards to the Isle of Man
in a hopeless condition of insolvency, where he tells
us he divided his time between the education of his
children, the improvement of a small farm, and the
writing of his Memoirs. He ends his story of a wasted
and riotous life in a spirit of contrition and remorse,
expressing a hope that what he had written might prove
of some service to other young men exposed to tempta-
tions like his own.

For the continuous folly and eccentricities of Whaley's
ill-spent life it is difficult to account in any rational way ;
but, with his accustomed hardihood, he does not shrink
from the attempt himself.

"I was born with strong passions, a lively imagination, and a spirit
that could brook no restraint. I possessed a restlessness and activity of
mind that directed me to the most extravagant pursuits ; and the ardour
of my disposition never abated till satiety had weakened the power of enjoy-
ment i till my health was impaired and my fortune destroyed No

small share of my follies are to be laid to a neglected education." *

His apologia, written as it was in the sackcloth and
ashes of broken fortune and ruined social standing — had
his life but ended with the writing of it — might have
appealed with some measure of success to sympathetic
readers. Unfortunately for him, the traditions which
have come down to us connected with his later years go
far towards showing that the spirit of humiliation which
he adopts in the introductory and concluding portions of
his Memoirs, and the sincerity of his anxiety for the

' See^os/, p. 332. 2 See post, p. 335.

xxii PREFACE.

morals of other young men likely to follow in his steps,
were merely the outcome of a kind of a death- bed
repentance, which was thoroughly genuine so long as
" the fell sergeant " was in sight, but the stagey and
artificial nature of which became aggressively apparent
when the prospect of immediate danger had been
removed.

The Isle of Man,' the spot he selected for his retire-
ment, was then a favourite place of sanctuary for those
who, having outrun the constable, still possessed that
genteel repugnance to the presence of bailiffs which is
characteristic of the persons to whom such officers are
most assiduous in their attentions. Here, in the neigh-
bourhood of Douglas, he settled down after ten years
of dissolute living, " blessed," as he tells us, " with
the reciprocal friendship of a tender and beloved
companion .... whose mild manners and amiable
disposition form a striking contrast with the frivolous-
ness, the vanity and tinsel which I formerly so much
admired in my female acquaintances." The first period
of his life in the island was, no doubt, taken up with the
writing of the Memoirs, which seem to have been ready
for the press in 1797. It is strange, however, that
Whaley is altogether silent regarding his life in the
neighbourhood of Douglas at this period ; for local
tradition does not represent him as devoted solely to
literature and the concerns of his new home. On the
contrary, his ways would seem not to have changed in
any material respect from their accustomed course, and

1 In the MS. reading (p. 7, post), "I am, at present, quietly settled in
Ireland." The word "Ireland" has been written over an erasure of
something of greater length. Mr. Greenfield's MS., referred to later on
(p. xxxix., posi\ has the same erasure and addition, but in his MS. the
words " Isle of Man " are still plainly visible.

PREFACE. xxiii

he is described as filling at the Assemblies in Douglas the
office of Master of the Ceremonies in much the same
way as Beau Nash played that part at Bath/ Bankrupt
as his condition was when he retired from the world,
it is certain that an extraordinary change in his fortunes
took place before he was long a resident in the Isle of
Man, for he commenced to build a mansion there of so
costly and luxurious a character that it at once became
known amongst the Manx people by the name of
" Whaley's Folly." This was Fort Anne, an illustration
of which as it appeared some few years later will be
found at p. xxiv. It is described in a scarce pamphlet
by Thomas Callister, 1815 :

" Fort Ann. — This is an exceedingly handsome seat, having been
built at great expense by Thomas Whalley {sic), Esq., deceased, an Irish
gentleman of fortune, some years since. It is in an elevated situation on
the road leading to Douglas Head, just opposite the Light House, and
commands a most delightful prospect of Castle Mona, of Colonel Stuart's
seat, of The Hills,' the quay, the town and the bay, as well as of
Howstrake, and a great part of the country all around. On the west
side is a long spacious and elegant hall, through which you pass in
entering, which is chiefly composed of stucco work j and on the east there
is a low building adjoining (left open at top with window openings in the
side walk), of nearly the same size as the hall, which is so contrived as to
have the appearance to a stranger, from the pier, of this edifice having
been the remains of some ancient ruins, and that the several other parts
thereof had been lately modernised : the stables and coach-house are
remarkably elegant and the out-oifices adjoining are neat and commodious :
there are also two fine gardens adjoining, one of them pretty large, and
the other contains a green-house, etc. There are at present two families
that occupy it, each in distinct and separate apartments, one of which is
Major Ormsby's, and the other the Honourable Mrs. Whalley, who is the
proprietor. Under the building are extensive vaults, and the interior
altogether as well as the exterior are both much admired ; and although it
falls greatly short of Castle Mona in extent and elegance, yet the views
thereof from several spots, especially from the pier, the strand, and the
bay, have an uncommon pleasing effect."

It is unknown exactly when he commenced to build

^ Knutsford i its Traditions and History. Henry Green. 1887.
^ The name of a house.

xxiv PREFACE.

this house, but a contemporary record describes it as still
unfinished in 1798 :

" The Duke of Athol's seat is in the vicinity of Douglas, and Mr.
Whalley's beautiful house and grounds, which are still in a progressive
state of improvement, embellish Douglas very much ; it is a part of the
Nunnery estate." ^

Earlier in the same work, under the heading "A View
of the Principal Estates, etc., with their Proprietors,
1798," Fort Ann is mentioned as that of Mr. Whalley.

During the building of this house, Whaley lost a
favourite and trusty servant named Jack. The inter-
course between Douglas and Liverpool was, in those
days, very uncertain, and accompanied by danger, and
the servant had been sent to the latter place for the pur-
pose of procuring a sum of money. This he obtained ;
but on returning in an open vessel he was shipwrecked
and drowned. The money was found on his person
when the body was washed ashore.^

The house, which has been enlarged in recent years
by the completion of extensive wings on either side, was
converted into an hotel about the middle of the last
century. It is now known as the Fort Anne Hotel, and
many traces of the original luxurious fittings are still
visible in the solid mahogany window-shutters with
silvered plate-glass let in, the Chippendale panels below
the windows, and the mahogany doors inlaid with
Chippendale work. Especially noticeable is a finely
carved Carrara marble mantelpiece, one of the two medal-
lions on which is said to be a likeness of Buck Whaley
himself Two portraits formerly hung in the dining-
room of the hotel, one of Whaley, and the other of his
lady companion — he in the character of a sportsman, and

' Feltham (J.). A Tmr through the Island tif Mann. Bath, 1798 p. 2-31.
' Ibid. p. 149. ' Knutsfurd: its Traditions and History.

PREFACE. XXV

she in the style of Mrs. Siddons. These pictures were
sold by auction some twenty years ago, since when they
have disappeared, and eluded the many efforts which
have been made by others as well as by myself to trace
them.'

The change which took place in Whaley's financial
position during his residence in the Isle of Man enabled
him, amongst other things, to get into the Irish Parlia-
ment for a second time. He was elected for Enniscorthy
towards the end of 1797. Here, as perhaps in other
directions, his brother-in-law. Lord Clare, would naturally
have lent him a helping hand ; but it is plain from the
costly nature of the building of Fort Anne that money
must have come to him, and in large amounts too, before
he embarked on the erection of such a residence. If
local tradition count for anything, the house would
appear to have been built out of the proceeds of
successful gambling.

Up till now the name of Whaley does not seem
to have been recorded amongst those that played a
part in the Chronique Scandaleuse which has grown up
around the life and doings of George the Fourth
when Prince of Wales. The following Memoirs, how-
ever, show that he was entitled to a place there ; ^ and

* The portrait of Whaley was probably the one referred to in Monads
Herald and Fargher's hie of Man Advertiser, nth May, 1896: "A full-
length portrait of the Regent, and a companion picture of Whalley, his
huntsman and favourite hounds, painted by Northcote, were presented to
the town of Douglas by Sir William Hillary, and were hung in the
Oddfellows' Hall, in Athol Street. Their removal occurred by * accident.'
Power, the actor, rented the hall, aiid his men who remained to take down
the scenery and ship it, took down these pictures also ; when someone
told them they * were not Power's' . . . Marshall, the owner of
Fort Anne . . . claimed them, and removed them back to Fort
Anne, which he had no more right to do than ..."

' Seej>«j/, p. 271-6.

xxvi PREFACE.

if gossip long current in the Isle of Man can be relied
on, the part he played, in at least the financial scenes of
the royal drama, must be regarded as of more importance
than that of a mere walking gentleman. A writer who
has collected a considerable amount of information re-
lating to Whaley's later life ' tells us of meetings at the
gaming-table between him and the Prince of Wales, in
which fortune at last seemed to take the side of the one
who had been so long the victim of others in similar
encounters, and in which the commoner not only relieved
his princely opponent of vast sums of cash, but in the
end succeeded by a grand coup in annexing a Favorita of
His Royal Highness, whom her ungallant protector had
in a moment of desperation staked as his only marketable
asset. At a somewhat later date, when the question of
the Union was engaging the chief attention of parlia-
mentarians, we learn that another addition was made to
Whaley's finances, though no doubt of smaller amount
than his profits from play. Castlereagh, writing to the
Duke of Portland, under date the yth February, 1800,
states that Whaley was absolutely bought by the Opposi-
tion stockpurse, and received two thousand pounds down,
and was to receive as much more. The statement is
confirmed by Cornwallis : " Twelve of our supporters
deserted to the enemy on the last division, one was
bought during the debate (Jerusalem Whaley, the Chan-
cellor's brother-in-law) ; " ' while Barrington states that

' Rev. Henry Green, M.A. Knutsford, op. cit. See Extract from
Holies MemoirSy Appendix, ad fin.

^ Cornwallis Correspondence, vol. iii. p. 183; Letter to Bp. of Lichfield
and Coventry. A more detailed account of these transactions is given in
Grattan's Memoirs, vol. v. pp. 71, 72: — "Mr. Thomas Whaley had in
1799 voted for the Union; he paid ^^4,000 for his election for the town
of Enniscorthy. He was not in affluent circumstances, but well inclined
to oppose the Union, and Mr. Goold accordingly agreed that these

PREFACE. xxvii

Whaley afterwards took a bribe from the Government
party to vote in favour of the Union.

The house at Fort Anne, according to a tradition
current at Knutsford — where Buck Whaley died — was
built upon Irish soil. Whaley, it appears, whether to
win a bet, or for the purpose of fulfilling some strange
vow, had undertaken to live upon Irish ground without
residing in Ireland, and in order to perform the under-
taking had, previous to laying the foundations, shipped
over to Douglas a quantity of earth from his native land
sufficient to underlie the whole mansion to the depth of
six feet. Another story limits the amount of Irish soil
to " a spot " in the grounds.

He does not seem to have been long settled in the
new house when Miss Courtney, his lady companion, died,
leaving him with two sons and a daughter. She appears
to have passed as his wife during their stay in the Isle
of Man, but it is abundantly clear from his own will —
referred to later on — that she was never legally entitled
to this status, in spite of the very strong attachment
which her protector had always shown for her. The
date of her death is not known.

In January 1800 Whaley married' the Hon. Mary
Catherine, daughter of Nicholas Lawless, first Lord
Cloncurry, and sister to Valentine, second Lord Cloncurry,
then an untried prisoner in the Tower of London ; but
his married life came to an end before the year was out,

expenses would be paid if he would vote against the Government. He
did so, and when the division took place on the question in 1800, Mr.
Cooke, the acting man for Lord Castlereagh . . . went to him and
offered him (to use his expression) a carte blanche-^ but Mr. Whaley
would not break the promise he had made to the Opposition. The funds,
however, were soon exhausted, and a member who would have opposed
the Union was lost in consequence, and voted for it," &c.
^ GentlemarCi Alagazine, 1800, p. 1 1 14.

xxviii PREFACE.

his death taking place on the 2nci November, iSoo.
At the time of its occurrence he seems to have been on
his way from Liverpool to London, for he was brought
in an almost expiring condition to the " George Inn " at
Knutsford, in Cheshire, then a well known halting place
on the mail-coach road, where he died soon after being
admitted.

The newspapers of the day ascribed his death to a
rheumatic fever contracted in Ireland ; but tradition has
preserved a more tragic account of his demise, and would
have us believe that he was stabbed in a fit of jealousy
by one of two sisters to whom he was paying marked
attentions at a time when each of them was in ignorance
of his concealed attachment to the other. Sarah, or
Sally, Jenkinson is stated by one writer ' to have been
the name of the lady from whom he received his death
wound : another authority * records the fact that this was
the very light-o'-love who had passed into his possession
from the royal seraglio.

He was buried in Knutsford churchyard, where on a
plain stone covering his grave is inscribed: —

" Underneath is interred the body of Thomas
Whaley, Esquire, of the City of Dublin, who died
November 2nd, 1 800. Aged 34 years."

" A strange circumstance," says a historian of the locality,' " took
place just before his funeral. The body had been placed in a leaden
coffin and brought into the old assembly room, and the workmen had just
made up the coffin, when Mr. Robinson, an Irishman, who also was a
dancing-master of that day, stepping upon the coffin, danced a hornpipe
over the body."

The Hon. Mrs. Whaley continued to reside at Fort
Anne after the death of her husband, in charge of the

' Edward Evans in The Irish Builder, Dec, 1894.
^ Isle of Man Examiner, June 2ist, 1902.
^ Green's Knutsford, p. 139.

PREFACE. xxix

three children, whom she brought up as her own. One
of them, Sophia Isabella, afterwards married a Mr. Tayler
of Sussex. The eldest son, Thomas Whaley, became
proprietor of the mansion after Mrs. Whaley's death, and
tried to finish the wing next the sea. On his death, the
second son, Richard, endeavoured to complete the
addition, but died before the work was done ; after which
Mrs. Tayler sold the place.

Whaley's will, made at Liverpool, is dated the
24th October, 1800, and probate was granted to his
widow the Hon. Mary Whaley on the 23rd January,
1 80 1. The testator appointed his wife, the Earl of
Clare, Val. Goold and Hugh Moore, executors, trustees
and testamentary guardians of his " natural " children,
leaving two thousand pounds to each of the three ; one
thousand pounds to Val. Goold, five hundred to Hugh
Moore, five hundred to Thos. Goold, and the residue to
his wife absolutely.

The reckless and eccentric doings of Buck Whaley
were, as might be expected, the talk of Dublin for years
after he had quitted the stage on which many of them
had been enacted ; and the details of his performances
seem in many instances to have been exaggerated by
writers of gossip connected with the subject. I have
already referred to some obvious fictions relating to his
journey to Jerusalem.' Another story about him relates
to a leap which he made from a drawing-room window
into the street.

The scene of this mad act has been laid in places
varying from the mansion in Stephen's Green to Daly's
Club, and other houses. In his own account of it,
however, the scene is laid at the York Hotel, Dover.''

' See ante, p. xvi. * See post, p. 326, and Appendix, ad fin.

XXX PREFACE.

Curiously enough, his own brother-in-law describes this
exploit as taking place in Dublin, and adds that Whaley
rendered himself a cripple for life in the doing of it ;
while the hero of the performance tells us that he escaped
with whole bones. The inaccuracy may be accounted
for by the fact that Whaley was dead forty-seven years
when Lord Cloncurry's Personal Recollections were
published.

The Freeman s Journal oi the 8th November, 1800, at
that time owned by Francis Higgins, the so-called Sham
Squire, is about the only newspaper that contains any
extended reference to Whaley's death.

" Died, Thos. Whaley, Esq. ; Member of Parliament for the borough
of Enniscorthy, of whom it need not be said that he moved in the most
elevated circles. When of age he found himself in possession of great
hereditary property and consequence, and nature and education gifted him
with a mind suited in liberality and benevolence to the heir of such a
fortune. His conversation was universally acknowledged to abound in
refined sentiments, elegant address, and a convivial disposition — the
pleasing current of whose good and polite nature perhaps hurried him to
leave the anchor of steady prudence, a clinging to which is after all in the
routine praise, and it is confessedly an unenvied praise, of the high as well
as low ! 'Tis well known that Mr. Whaley was blessed with a good
understanding, but the whirl and blaze in which he lived diminished its
effect and force in an eccentricity of pursuits ; the wide influence of his
name and the credit of his estate were without reserve communicated to
those ephemeral fashionables who live like butterflies in the sunshine and
derive subsistence as the satellites and seducers of the great, and who
sometimes gradually exhaust in their numbers the copious springs that
supply their wants ! To the unceasing calls of such Mr. Whaley was
never deaf — his heart was susceptible of the most feeling and friendly
impressions j and from his constant exposure to those artful ones, 'tis
unnecessary to notice how incalculably he suffered in their manifold lures.
In a word, the life of Mr. Whaley had the improvident feature of
greatness, but his fault was the generous failing of an exalted mind. Mr.
Whaley, about twelve months ago, married the Hon. Miss Lawless,
daughter of the late and sister to the present Lord Cloncurry."

The scatter-brained adventures of so remarkable a
character as Buck Whaley could hardly escape the notice
of the Dublin ballad-monger of the time, and amongst

PREFACE. xxxi

the ephemeral literature coming from such a source the
following piece of doggerel, relating to his journey to
Jerusalem, has survived : — '

WHALLEY'S EMBARKATION.

Tune — " Rutland Gigg."

I.

One morning walking George's-quay,
A monstrous crowd stoppM up the way,
Who came to see a sight so rare,
A sight that made all Dublin stare.

Balloons, a vol.^ review

Ne'er gathered such a crew,

As there did take their stand.

This sight for to command.

Tol hi Id lol Ul hi.

II.
Buck Whalley lacking much in cash.
And being used to cut a dash,
He wagered full ten thousand pound
He'd visit soon the Holy Ground.

In Loftus's fine ship

He said he'd take a trip.

And Costello so famed,

The captain then was named.

III.
From Park Street* down through College Green,
The grand procession now was seen ;
The Boxing Chairmen first mov'd on
To clear away the blackguard throng \

' The version given here is from the Haliday Collection of Pamphlets
relating to Ireland (Royal Irish Academy), Miscellaneous Verses, 1789,
Vol. 550. The Ballad is printed with some slight variations, and without
verses viii. and xi., in the Dublin University Magazine^ Dec. 1861,
p. 722-3. The name is spelt "Whalley" throughout. See Notes and
^eries, 3rd Series, ii. 149, where the author is said to be "a bard who
contributed to a collection of political squibs entitled ' Both Sides of the
Gutter' (1790 or thereabouts)." Some other rhyming effusions relating
to the Whaley family will be found in the Appendix.

* /.^., volunteer.

' Now Leinster Street. See Dublin Street Names, by Rev. C. T
M'Cready, D.D.

PREFACE.

Then Whalley debonair
Marched forward with his Bear,
And Lawlor^ too was there
Which made Lord Naas^ to stare.

IV.

Says Lawlor, "Whalley ! my dear friend,
My sage advice to you I'll lend,
As you this bet will win no doubt,
I'll shew you how to lay it out ;

And Moore,^ that dirty whelp,

I'm sure will lend a help ;

With box and dice, my buck,

We'll all have charming luck."

V.

Next Heydon in her vis-a-vis
With paint and ribbons, smile and glee;
As aide-de-camp, close by her side,
Long Bob* the Turkey-cock did ride ;

And Guilford's Lord ^ came next.

Who seemed extremely vext,

To see the Lady's nob

So very close to Bob.

^ Possibly J. Lawlor, called to the Irish Bar in 1773, and a resident in
St. Stephen's Green.

^ See Lodge, Peerage of Ireland (Archdall), iii., 422.

3 Original note {a) " Earl of D.," i.e. the Earl of Drogheda. The
uncompHmentary epithet is possibly not unconnected with the fact that
Lord Drogheda (who was in the Army, and afterwards Field Marshal)
had been sent in 1762 to disturbed districts in the province of Munster in
command of a military force, by whom many of the insurgents were
stated to have been killed {Grattans Memoirsj 2nd series, i., p. xi., seq.).

* Original note (h) " Uniacke." In all probability Col, Robert
Uniacke, M.P. Youghal, Surveyor-General of Ordnance (1800). He
was High Sheriff, Co. Waterford, in 1782, and then opposed to a union
with England. Became a strong Unionist later. " He was at times
stationed at the back-door entrance into the House of Commons, to let
Members in or out, as circumstances required — an oiBce to which his
bodily strength and vigour were particularly adapted " (Barrington's His-
toric Anecdotesj i., 342). He is stated to have been "connected with
Lord Clare" {Grattan's Memoirs^ vol. v. See 1^., iii., 453, and Burke's
Landed Gentryy ed. 1847, p. 1456).

^ Lord Gillford, eldest son of Earl of Clanwilliam, the former next-door
neighbour of Thos. C, Whaley,

PREFACE. xxxiii

VI.
Then came French valets two and two,
By garhck you'd have smelt the crew ;
And large as any Shetland hog,
Came Watch, the black Newfoundland dog.

A Swiss bore in the train

A baboon with a chain ;

The stripM post-chaise came by.

With Zara and with Fly.'

VII.
In phaeton and six, high rear'd,
Dudley Loftus^ next appeared :
A monkey perched was by his side.
Which looked, for all the world, his bride.

Poor Singleton in black

Upon a dirty hack.

With heavy heart mov'd on

To see his friend begone.
VIII.
Against the council Whalley went
Of brother-in-law Fitz Petulant,'
And Mr. Fitz felt sorrow more,
Than when he went to fight with Orr.

John Whalley his next heir,

With streaming eyes was there.

For fear his brother Tom

Should ne'er return home.

Tul hi hi hi tol hi.
IX.

And now behold upon the strand.
This cargo for the Holy Land,
Bears, lap-dogs, monkeys. Frenchmen, — ,
Bear-leaders, and dependants poor.

Black Mark' loung'd in the crew.
He'd nothing else to do :
Peg Plunket^ on her horse
Was surely there of course.
1 Original note (<:) " Two lap-dogs."

' Probably the same person as mentioned in verse II. See Burke's
Landed Gentry, 1847, p. 758.

^ Fitzgibbon, who seems to have been known by this sobriquet — see
Lessons to a Toung Chancellor, or a Letter from Mentor to Lord Jeffreys,
Baron Petulant of the Kingdom of Barataria, 1792.

' Possibly Marcus Beresford (eldest son of Rt. Hon. John Beresford),
M.P. Dungarvan, 1783; called to the Bar 1786. Baron Hamilton,
writing to his father in March, 1787, refers to him as "my companion
Mark" ; while the next line in the ballad may allude to his very junior
standing as a barrister [Beresford Correspondence, i., 321).

^ A lady somewhat notorious for her indiscretions at this period. She

d

xxxiv PREFACE.

X.

His creditors, poor men, were there,
And in their looks you'd see despair,
For bailiffs he cared not a louse,
Because you know " he's in the House."

Cuff from the Barrack Board'

Swore by great Temple's Lord,*

This action to requite,

Tom should be dubb'd a Knight.

XI.
There came along with Jemmy Cuff
As Commissaire ! Sir Paddy Puff,^
Ben Arthure' fam'd for bounty rare,
(But that is neither here or there).

Sir King* and fisty Ben'

Are both hard honest men.

It cost them nought — and so

They went to see the show.

XII.
The Boxing Bishop," and at his back.
Jack Coffee,' alias Paddy Whack.

was daughter of a Mr. Plunket, of Killough, Co. West Meath, and
married a Mr. Leeson. Her autobiography was published under the title
oi Memotrs of Mrs. Margaret Leeson^ 2 vols., Dublin, 1795.

' Rt. Hon. James Cuff, M.P., Superintendent-General of Barracks and
Treasurer to the Barrack Board, afterwards Lord Tyrawley. See Beres~
ford Correspondence^ ii., 6q, and Complete Peerage^ vii., 443.

* George Nugent Grenville Temple, Marq. of Buckingham, then
Lord Lieutenant.

' "Sir Paddy Puff" and "Sir King" are the same, iiiz. Sir Patrick
King, Knt., a commissary of the Muster Master General.

* Benedict Arthur — the same who is called '* fisty Ben ** two lines
later.

" Tradition says that there was a pugilist bishop of the Beresford
family in the eighteenth century, so the reference is perhaps to the
Rt. Rev. William Beresford, then Bishop of Ossory, afterwards Arch-
bishop of Tuam, and first Lord Decies. He married Elizabeth, sister of
Rt. Hon. John Fitzgibbon. Possibly, however. Dr. Robert Fowler, then
Archbishop of Dublin, may be the person alluded to, as would appear to
be the case from some lines in a contemporary publication already
mentioned. Both Sides of the Gutter^ p. 128 —

Their Lordships the bishops, men of learning and parts,
In composing of pray'rs have been breaking their hearts ;

And his good Grace of D quits money affairs,

And boxing his Clergy — for thanksgiving pray'rs.

' Perhaps John Coffey, who appears amongst the attorneys in the
Directory of the day.

PREFACE. XXXV

His Grace had come (long may he h've !)
His benediction for to give.

He trod (though did not know)

On Napper Tandy's* toe,

Who lent his Grace a clout,

And so they boxed it out.

xni.

Now all embarked, this motley crew
Each minute lessened to the view ;
And soon will plough the boisterous main.
Wealth, honour, and renown to gain.
Jerus*lem*s barren lands,
And Egypt's dreary sands,
Like wandering pilgrims roam
To bring much knowledge home.

XIV.

From Cork see Tom Fitzgerald ^ steers,
His boat now trimmed in its best geers,
To give Beau Whalley an escort,
And see him safely out of port.

And in a fishing boat,

Astern was Lundy Foot,'

With all his penny boys

To make a roaring noise.

Considering the early age at which Whaley was
removed from school, he seems to have acquired no
inconsiderable amount of education. He was certainly
an observant and intelligent traveller, and in spite of

* James Napper Tandy, the well-known rebel. He had a more
serious conflict with the Beresford family afterwards, a prosecution being
instituted against him in 1793 for a seditious pamphlet containing,
amongst other things, severe strictures on that family, with a list of their
places and pensions. He fled the country before the trial came on.

^ Possibly Major Thomas Fitzgerald, one of the Delegates from
Co. Cork to the National Convention, 1783 [Grattari's Memoirs^ iii., 467).

^ A tobacconist who had risen to wealth and eminence at the time. It
is said that when he first set up as a man of society in Dublin, fearing the
laughter of the populace, he requested Curran to write a Latin motto for
the coat-of-arms he intended to put on his carriage. The wit suggested
" ^uid rides''

d 2

xxxvi PREFACE.

many distractions, must have spent much of his time in
noting down such descriptive details as he has preserved
of his visits to Gibraltar, Constantinople, Asia Minor,
Jerusalem, and other places of interest. At Rome, he
tells us that he spent eight hours a day for two months
" in viewing whatever was worthy the notice of a
traveller."'

The sketches he made during his wanderings, which
were, however, unfortunately lost,' point to the possession
of some artistic ability ; and his allusions to ancient
history and mythology, his occasional quotations from
the Latin poets, together with some evidence of a know-
ledge of Greek, all go to show that he retained some-
thing more than a mere schoolboy smattering of the
classics. Where he chiefly fails as a writer is in the
spelling of foreign names of places, some of which, as
he gives them, are quite impossible to identify. The
Memoirs were, however, compiled from notes made here
and there through his travels, often, no doubt, in a
hurried manner, and from casual information gathered by
the way, and when after the lapse of some years he came
to transcribe his disjointed memoranda, he had probably
forgotten the less-known names, and may have been out
of the reach of such books as would have enabled him
to show more correctness in this branch of orthography.

Not unconnected with the subject of his general
attainments in the way of education, there is one feature
of the Memoirs which is deserving of more than a
passing notice. He gives in his pages exact copies of
several inscriptions, which he took from the original
slabs or tombstones in Jerusalem as they then appeared,
although saying nothing as to what led him into this

1 See;*05/, p. 307. ' Seepmt, p. 6.

PREFACE. xxxvii

branch of archasology, one seldom touched on by any
but those who have devoted some serious study to
matters of the kind. It might be suggested, and with
plausibiUty, that his reproductions of these ancient writ-
ings were intended to be used as further proofs of his
having been in the Holy City, and with a view to
convincing the friends who had wagered against his
getting there. But the honesty of his confession of the
purpose for which he obtained the certificates given to
him by the Superiors of the conventual establishments
at Jerusalem and Nazareth ' show that such suggestions
are unnecessary.

The importance of his readings of these early inscrip-
tions lies in the fact that many of them are now no
longer in existence, their destruction in 1808, just twenty
years after he had copied them, having been effected by
the Greek churchmen on the spot in their anxiety to get
rid of all evidence that the Holy Sepulchre had ever
been in the possession of the Latin, or Western, Church.
Two of the inscriptions which Whaley transferred to his
pages are to be found in the Itinerary of Fynes Moryson
(London 16 17), although the fact does not seem to have
been noticed by the chief authorities who have written
on the subject ; but Moryson's readings differ from those
given by Whaley, and, curiously enough, it is Whaley's
versions that turn out to be the more accurate of the two.

I have already referred to the anonymous nature of
the manuscript throughout, and the skeleton form in
which nearly all the names of persons are set down whose
identity might lead to the discovery of the author. The
texture of the veil is, however, so extremely thin as to be
almost transparent. The work, as originally penned,

* See poit^ p. 223.

xxxviii PREFACE.

obviously gave the real initials of all the individuals
whose names are hinted at ; but when the manuscript
came to be edited, it was evidently considered that the
disguise was one too easy to be seen through, and we
find that, at any rate in the first volume, the initials
originally written have in many cases been erased, and
others of a misleading kind have been introduced in their
stead.

This tampering with the original text must, I think,
have occurred subsequently to Whaley's marriage —
possibly even after his death — the substituted letters
being in a different, and what is manifestly a feminine
hand. Amongst the changes effected in this way are
the letters " W. M." as the initials of the author, written
over an erasure on the title-page of Vol. I., and the
frequent substitution of " Mr. N." as descriptive of
Mr. Richardson, Whaley's stepfather, in places where
" Mr. R." had obviously been previously written.

The latter alteration has, however, been forgotten in
some instances, even in Vol. I. ; and, as already men-
tioned, Whaley's full name occurs in the same volume
at page 224. Another important change effected in the
text has to do with Whaley's relations with his " lady
companion." By a stroke of the pen she is made his
" wife " early in the first volume,' although in the second
volume she is merely a " companion " or " friend — " except
in a solitary instance where she is referred to as " Mrs.
W — ," indicative, I fancy, of the assumed character
under which she passed when living with him in Paris.''
Other similar amendments of the original text are
referred to in the foot-notes as they occur.

Whoever the editor may have been, his (or her) hand

1 See past, p. 8. ^ $ec post, p. 310.

PREFACE. xxxix

seems to have been stayed before even the first volume
was ready for the printer ; the second volume is, as a
matter of fact, untampered with ; even such tell-tale
phrases as " my brother-in-law, the Chancellor " being
left untouched. The difficulty of preserving the desired
incognito of the persons referred to, and of the hero in
particular, may have led to the discontinuance of the
work. Family considerations would of themselves have
supplied a good reason for keeping it unpublished ; and
there was one, at least, of high and influential position at
the time who can hardly have been anxious to give the
public an opportunity of gloating over the eccentricities
of his wife's brother. Lord Clare may, in all probability,
be assumed to have taken stringent measures to keep the
manuscript from the eyes of the world, much in the same
way as, at a later date. Lord Brougham took care that
certain inconvenient portions of the Creevey Papers,
popularly supposed to have contained reflections of a
compromising character upon persons then living, should
not be allowed even to reach the hands of Creevey's
executors.' Clare's taking such a course is not rendered
more unlikely by the fact of his having given orders
when dying for the destruction of his own papers, a
thing that we have reason to believe he did.^

While engaged in correcting the proofs of the
Memoirs, I became aware of the existence of two other
manuscripts connected with the subject of Whaley's life
and travels. The first of these, brought to my notice by
its owner, Mr. T. C. Greenfield of Sutton, Surrey, is
contained in two plainly bound 4to volumes, and is to all
intents and purposes a duplicate of my own, although the
actual wording is occasionally diffisrent. It was given to

1 Creevey Papers, Introd. p. xiv. ^ Diet. Nat. Biog.

xl PREFACE.

the present owner some twenty years ago, together with
some notes in reference to Buck Whaley, by a Dr.
Orlando Thomas Dobbin, an Irish book-collector, but
without any information as to how it had come into his
possession. I refer to it hereafter for brevity as MS.
No. 2. It is without a title-page, or other indication of
authorship, and the " Notice " is missing. It begins :
" After having made the tour of Europe, etc.," but some
earlier leaves have obviously been removed from their
places. The Jerusalem inscriptions are wanting, the
Nazareth Certificate, and also the numbered items descrip-
tive of the contents of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
{post, pp. 200 — 207). Proper names of persons are
represented by initials ; and erasures occur, at least in the
first few pages, even more frequently than in my copy.
It is quite possible that this MS. is in Whaley's own
handwriting ; but if so it would seem to be a late copy,
as the paper upon which it is written is water-marked
" 1799 " all through. It may indeed have been the
identical transcript prepared by Whaley himself for the
press when he was about to publish the Memoirs, un-
willing possibly that the handsomely bound copy should
be used for such a purpose. The alterations which have
been made in the text were evidently subsequent in date
to Whaley's time, and the words which are occasionally
substituted for passages crossed out are all in a lady's
hand. Attention is drawn to these passages in the foot-
notes later on. On the whole, the contents of this MS.
are somewhat shorter than as they are given in my copy
although in one notable instance there is quite a long
account of an episode in Cyprus which is not even
alluded to in my version. This will be found in the
Appendix. On the other hand, the very full account of

PREFACE. xU

Cyprus given in the pages following (238 — 263) has
practically no place in MS. No. 2 ; and indeed, so far
as Cyprus is concerned, the journeys and incidents as
described in the two narratives might very well be
journeys made by two different travellers. Another
remarkable feature of MS. No. 2 is that in it the amount
stated to have been staked on the journey to Jerusalem
is put at ;^2 5,000, while in my copy it is only ;^ 15,000
(see post, p. 270), a discrepancy for which it is difficult to
suggest any reasonable explanation. Some other varia-
tions will be found noted from time to time as they
occur. If this MS. No. 2 was not the copy intended for
the printer, as I have suggested, it may perhaps have
been a duplicate made for the use of Whaley's intimate
friends, who might naturally be supposed to have been
more interested in his actual adventures than in the
results of his archasological researches, and for whose
benefit the work was possibly docked of its drier details ;
but even on this supposition it is hard to account for the
omission of the Certificate which established the fact
that the traveller had visited the Holy Land. Mr.
Greenfield has been kind enough to give me many
opportunities of inspecting his MS. and for this and
other assistance I am much indebted to him.

The second additional MS. has an interest and impor-
tance of quite another kind, being an independent
account of the Journey to Jerusalem written by Capt.
Hugh Moore, Buck Whaley's travelling companion from
Gibraltar to the Holy City, and from thence back to
Dublin. This MS. was written on board ship,' as the
writer mentions, and it has been preserved in the author's
family ever since. Mr. H. Armytage Moore, of Rowal-

' See Appendix.

xlii PREFACE.

lane, co. Down, the grandson of the writer, has
generously lent it to me for the purpose of supplementing
and completing Whaley's own account of this portion of
the Memoirs.

A peculiar value is given to this MS. by the fact that
in it there is no attempt to conceal the names of the
persons with whom the travellers came in contact ; and
with its assistance I have been enabled to fill up a large
number of blanks which occur in Whaley's narrative, or
to confirm conjectural additions which I had already
made from other sources of information. Some extracts
from the original will be found in the Appendix. It
commences at Gibraltar on the 6th November, 1788,
and covers much the same ground as Whaley's journal
as far as St. Jean d'Acre on the return journey from
Jerusalem. Here it comes to an end somewhat abruptly.
That it is incomplete is shown by the interesting
Itinerary which is found on one of its last pages, and
which contains a resume of the entire journey, with
dates and distances, from Gibraltar to Jerusalem and
from thence to Dublin.^

The language used in this journal of Capt. Moore
is quite different from Whaley's ; but now and again
there are passages which show that one of the writers
must have copied from the other, or that both had
incorporated material derived from a common source.
Moore's account of Constantinople, its public buildings,
antiquities, and other objects of interest, occupying some
forty pages of the MS., is all in French, transcribed, as
he says himself, from " an Itineraire " made by Mons.
Grand, " a young Frenchman of observation " to whom
he had been introduced by Sir Robert Ainslie, the

^ See Appendix.

PREFACE. xliii

British Ambassador at the time. By way of explanation
for its insertion, he states that he had himself been pre-
vented from getting more than a cursory view of the
Turkish capital owing to his constant attendance upon
his comrade Whaley, who was an invalid during most
of the time they spent there. Whaley's own description
of much that he saw in Constantinople must necessarily
have been derived largely from second-hand information,
as he was obviously less able to go about the city than
Capt. Moore.

A particularly interesting page of this journal is the
one on which is pasted the original certificate of having
visited Nazareth, with the seal of the Convent of
St. Mary attached. This document . is reproduced in
facsimile at page 224. The original of the more impor-
tant Jerusalem certificate seems also to have been pre-
served at one time in this volume, but the leaf to which
it was attached has unfortunately been torn out of the
book.

In the matter of inscriptions, Hugh Moore seems to
have been even more of an antiquarian than Whaley,
setting out, as he does, many of those which were then
to be seen in Constantinople, in Greek, Latin and
Russian, while his readings of those at Jerusalem are
fuller at times than the versions given by his companion.
Here again Capt. Moore was sometimes indebted to
others, as he acknowledges, both for the originals and the
renderings which occasionally accompany them.

I am under a further debt of obligation to Mr.
Armytage Moore for the photograph of Capt. Moore's
portrait, which is reproduced at page xlii.

I have taken as few liberties as possible with the
original text of Whaley's manuscript, the changes intro-

xliv PREFACE.

duced being mainly directed to the correction of faulty
punctuation, the cancellation of constantly recurring
capital letters, and the occasional modernising of the
spelling. In some rare cases where Whaley's language
is somewhat too outspoken, I have indicated omissions
from the original by asterisks. Any words added to
the text will be found enclosed in square brackets [ ].

In addition to those already mentioned as assisting me
in the editing of these Memoirs, I desire to express my
thanks for aid and information to Mr. W. G. Wood, of
Streatham ; Mr. John Whaley, of Annsboro, Naas, co.
Kildare ; Miss Whaley, of Malahide, co. Dublin ; Mr.
Thomas Cunnellon, T.C., Knutsford ; the Manageress,
Fort Anne Hotel, Douglas ; Mr. Horace Headlam,
of the Public Record Office, London ; the Assistant
Librarian, Royal United Service Institution, Whitehall ;
the Librarian of the Foreign Office ; Mr. F. Elrington
Ball, of DubHn ; and the Secretary of the Palestine
Exploration Fund.

EDWARD SULLIVAN.

"January, 1906.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Portrait of Buck Whaley . . . Facing Title

PAGE

No. 86, Stephen's Green, Ddblin . . „ xi

The Beaux Walk . . . . . . „ xv

Fort Anne „ xxiv

Portrait of Capt. Hugh Moore . . . „ xlii

The Binding of the MS. Memoirs . . „ xlvii

Sir Robt. Boyd, K.B „ 52

Facsimile of a Page of Capt. Moore's

Journal . . . . . . . „ 224

William Beckford „ 294

Lord Clare . . . . . • • » 33'

:/U ,„^,;.„.-. -,./.7, .,./,,y, l.-'-U ,-. ,/■•/,/.

TRAVELS

THROUGH DIFFERENT PARTS OF

EUROPE and ASIA

PARTICULARLY

A JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM

in 1788.

WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE

LIFE AND PRIVATE MEMOIRS

OF

W M , Esq.*

WRITTEN BY HIMSELF.

VOLUME I.

DUBLIN, 1797.

[* See Preface, p. xxxviii.]

NOTICE.

I AM apprehensive that I shall be accused both of pre-
sumption and singularity in thus obtruding myself on the
notice of my friends and the public ; therefore think it
expedient to detail the motives that influenced my
determination.

Having during my solitary retirement often revolved
in my mind the various scenes of life, in vsrhich I have
been either a principal actor or merely a spectator ; and
having always had within myself a secret friend and
monitor, who persuaded me to make observations, to
draw conclusions and to hoard up for riper years the
lessons of experience ; I thought that a faithful picture
of my youthful eccentricities, drawn with justice and
impartiality, would not be unacceptable to my country-
men, and particularly to my younger friends, who
will find some few examples which they may follow
with advantage, but many more which they ought to
avoid.

The energetic and sophistical Rousseau, the ingenious
and excellent Lavater, the sublime and elegant Gibbon,
have given instances and served as models for such pub-
lications : why should I not presume in my humble way
to follow their steps and lay in my claim to immortality ?

It must be confessed that their pursuits in life have
been quite different ; they have exhibited to the

B

2 NOTICE.

Philosopher, the Legislator, the Man of Letters many
striking traits of originality. Some of them have led
astray many a young man, many a good Christian, from
the path of religion into the comfortless labyrinth of
irreligion and infidelity.

Disclaiming all such pretensions, I shall simply give
a sketch of my actions and pursuits : I shall unfold the
deepest recesses of my heart and unmask the various arts
and stratagems that are used to mislead young men of
great expectations, and to ruin their health, morals and
fortunes.

The notes I have made and the various Journals I
have kept of my voyages, that of Jerusalem in particular,
enable me likewise to intersperse my narrative with
much instructive matter and entertaining anecdotes ;
many of which, though more ably communicated by
eminent writers, yet have some novelty from the different
manner in which I may have viewed and considered
them.

The imprisonment and death of the unfortunate
Lewis the Sixteenth, and the boldness with which, from
my eagerness to see and observe every thing, I approached
some of the most formidable and atrocious characters,
distinguished in that incomprehensible and ever to be
lamented Revolution, enable me also to throw some light
on that land of darkness and to discover some of the
secret springs used to lead, under the seducing smiles of
liberty, a good and loyal people into all the excesses of
savage barbarity. Whatever I have seen and observed I
shall faithfully detail, without presuming or attempting
to misguide the reader ; claiming, as a reward of my
sincerity, that indulgence which candour and impartiality
are always sure to obtain.

NOTICE. 3

Should but one young man learn from these sheets
some useful lesson, and stop in the career of folly and
dissipation ; or one of my indulgent friends be induced to
believe that my extraordinary levities proceeded, not from
a corrupted heart, but an eccentric and exalted imagi-
nation and ridiculous pretensions to notoriety, I shall
think myself amply repaid for having attempted this
publication.

t 2

TABLE OF CONTENTS

OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Introduction — My Birth — My Mother's Character — My Own — A
Journey to France — Auch — The House Establishment of an
Englishman in Foreign Countries — A French Bishop — A
Match Proposed — An Intrigue — A Journey to Marseilles —
To Lyons — An Acquaintance with Gamblers — Honesty of a
Foreign Banker — Paris — A French Courtezan — An Assigna-
tion — My Stepfather Introduced . . . • [ 7 ]

CHAPTER II.

My Return to Dublin — An Extraordinary Wager — A Sea Journal —
Description of an Albacore — The Moorish Fleet — Gibralter
— The Grand Battery — St. George's Hall — Poco Roco, or
Eliott*s Parlour — Ince's Gallery — Willis's Battery or Queen's
Gallery — The King's Bastion — St. Michael's Cave — Some
Remarks on Gibralter . . . . . [ 33 J

CHAPTER III.

The Sea Voyage resumed — The Island of St. Peter — Sicily — Mount
Olympus — A Storm — Smyrna — A Tandour — L* A vant
Souper — The Custom-House — A Caravan — A Mosque — A
Turkish Bath — A Lead-Foundry — Character of Pauolo, my
Servant — A Turkish Burying-Ground — Journey to Constanti-
nople — Magnesia — Its Governor — Preparation for a Battle [ 62 J

CHAPTER IV.

Constantinople — Pera — Dancing Boys — The Grand Signior's Pro-
cession to St. Sophia — View of Constantinople — The Grand
Signior's Barges — Mosque of St. Sophia — The Character of
Capitan Pasha — Our Reception — Turkish Fleet — Dervishes
— The Seraglio [ 103 ]

6 TABLE OF CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

Constantinople continued — Pera — Its Antiquities — Obelisks — Cistern
of Basilica — The Slave Market — The Coffee Manufactory —
The Watch-Tower — The Seven Towers — Ramaden — A
Bath for the Ladies — Character of the Turks — Dress — The
Ladies — Their Food — Their Diversions — Arts and Sciences
— A Turkish Billet-Doux — The Plague — The Police — The
Grand Signior — Public Buildings — Marriages — Janissaries [ 127 ]

CHAPTER VL

Departure from Constantinople — The Dardanelles — Ancient Troy —
Return to Smyrna — Homer's Cavern — Population of Smyrna
— Ephesus — The River Meander — Fogia Nova — Seis — Patmos
— A Greek Seminary — St. John the Evangelist — St. John of
Acre — Nazareth — The Church of the Annunciation — The
Governor of Nazareth . . . . , • [ ^55 ]

DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES.*

1. An Allegorical Frontispiece. Pagt

2. A View of Smyrna ........ 37

3. Pauolo, my Faithful Servant . . . . . . 163

4. Magnesia . . . . . . . . , • '77

5. A View of Constantinople ....... 217

6. My Presentation to Capitan Pasha .... 234

7. The Grand Signior's Seraglio . . . . . 252

8. A Turkish Lady Coming out of the Bath . . . 284

[* The accidental loss of these sketches is referred to in the text, p. 107.
For list of illustrations in this volume, see p. XLV.]

CHAPTER I.

Introduction — My Birth — My Mother's Character — My Own — A Journey
to France —To Auch — The House Establishment of an Englishman
in Foreign Countries — A French Bishop — A Match Proposed — An
Intrigue — A Journey to Marseilles — To Lyons — An Acquaintance
with Gamblers — Honesty of a Foreign Banker — Paris — A French
Courtezan — An Assignation — My Stepfather Introduced.

After having made the tour ot Europe and visited
several parts of Asia and Africa ; having indulged myself
in all the pleasures which a young man of a lively
imagination, possessed of a large fortune, and entire
master of his actions may be supposed capable of
enjoying ; having vainly sought for happiness in the
society of what is called the best company, and dis-
tinguished myself as a man of gallantry * with the fair
sex; * a little sober reflection has convinced me how much
I was deceived in believing that a life of dissipation could
produce enjoyment ; or that tumultuous pleasures led to
real happiness. I now find that the latter can only be
attained in a calm and retired life remote from the vortex
of fashionable amusements, in the pursuit of which man
may be said to live rather for others than himself; and
where the transient pleasures he enjoys are constantly
succeeded by pain and languor.

* I am at present quietly settled in Ireland,' blessed

^ See Preface.
* The words between asterisks are crossed out in MS. No. 2.

8 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

with the society of a wife' whose mild manners and
amiable disposition form a striking contrast with the
frivolousness, the vanity and tinsel which I formerly so
much admired in my female acquaintances.

My time is divided between the education of my
children,* the improvement of my small farm, and the
writing of these Memoirs, which I hope may prove of some
service to youth in particular and to travellers in general.

The former will discover the different modes of
seduction practised by the artful and designing of both
sexes ; a knowledge by which he may be a considerable
saver, both in pocket and constitution.

The traveller will find a description of the manners,
customs and prevailing opinions of the different nations I
have visited. He will be taught to shun the impositions
and artifice practised upon strangers ; and at the same
time learn to avoid giving offence by that overbearing
pride and self-importance too common to our countrymen,
and from the display of which, by our ostentatious
travellers, the British nation has suffered greatly in the
opinion of foreigners.

I would not, however, have it imagined that these
reflections are occasioned by a satiety of the world, or an
incapacity of enjoying its pleasures ; but that they proceed
from a full and firm conviction of their truth and utility.

*I was born at Dublin in the year 1768." My father
was a man of very large property, having amply provided
for all his children, not less than seven in number : I had
for my own share an estate of seven thousand pounds a
year, besides upwards of sixty thousand pounds in money.

1 See Preface. « Ihid.

* The whole of this passage, to the 3rd line from the bottom of p. 10,
is crossed out or removed from MS. No. 2.

MY MOTHER'S CHARACTER. 9

On my father's death, which happened when I was
four years old/ the care of my education devolved upon
my mother, who sent me to one of the first seminaries of
Ireland, where I remained till I was fifteen.

I shall beg leave to introduce my mother to the
reader's acquaintance, lest he should imagine that the
irregularities of my conduct, which he will have an
opportunity of witnessing, by perusing these Memoirs,
might have proceeded from her own bad example, or a
neglect, on her part, in my education.

My mother at the age of eighteen was married to my
father, then in his fifty-ninth year. To a person
remarkably handsome were united captivating manners,
a well-cultivated mind and the most incorruptible virtue.
But what raised her highest in the esteem of all who
knew her, was the undeviating rectitude of her conduct
towards my father, notwithstanding the disparity of their
age, which would have been sufficient to have excited the
malevolence of slander against her, had she given the
least opening for it, by any levity in her behaviour. She
was the mother of seven children, all of whom she
brought up in the paths of religion and virtue : and
whatever follies any of us may have committed, the
cause could never be imputed to her. All her cares,
all her anxieties were on our account ; and the
most bitter sensation I feel in reflecting on my past
conduct proceeds from the pangs I have inflicted on
that most excellent woman. Indeed, I may attribute
my reform in a great measure to the desire, which I
never ceased to feel, of contributing to her ease and
satisfaction.

Three years after my father's death she married

' See Preface.

lo WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

Mr. N ,' of whom I shall have occasion to speak more

fully hereafter. This choice would in itself have been
sufficient to have gained her the esteem of all who
knew her, had she not so amply possessed it before.

Ere I proceed in detailing the principal occurrences
of my life, I wish to say a few words respecting the
opinion I have formed of my own character.

It is a just, though trite observation, that the most
difficult knowledge is that of knowing oneself; for which
reason I shall not attempt to give a finished picture ot
my character, but merely sketch a few outlines, by which
the reader may be enabled to form some judgment of my
behaviour in the different scenes through which I have
passed, and in which I have been a principal actor.

The most prominent feature in my character, to
which I may in a great measure impute all my mis-
fortunes, is the extreme anxiety and impatience I always
felt at the approach of any difficulty. To avoid an
impending evil, I have formed plans so wild and extrava-
gant, and for the most part so impracticable, that what
I had before dreaded appeared light when compared
with the distress I incurred by my own precipitate folly.
Added to this, an impatience of all control whatsoever,
and a temper always impelled to action in proportion to
the resistance which it had to encounter; and it will
no longer be a matter of surprise if I were continually
entangled in some new and perplexing embarrassment.

When I had attained my sixteenth year, *my mother
thought proper * to send me to France in order to finish

^ There is here an obvious erasure — the letter N being substituted.
See Preface.

* The words between the asterisks are crossed out in MS. No. 2, the
words " it was considered right " being added.

MY TUTOR AND HIS CHARGE. ti

my education. For this purpose she assigned me a yearly
allowance of nine hundred pounds, and placed me under
the care of a tutor, who had been recommended to her
by some persons of distinction in Ireland. He had been
in the army, but his pay not corresponding with his
expenses he was under the necessity of selling his
commission to pay his debts, and had now taken up the
profession of governor, or as it is sometimes termed
bear-leader, to young men of family. He had had a
good education, and profited considerably by the observa-
tions he had made abroad. His heart was good ; but
his constitution had been impaired by early intemper-
ance ; and he wanted that address and firmness ot
character necessary to superintend the conduct of a
young man like me, on whom opposition badly managed,
or authority indiscriminately exercised, always acted as
a stimulus to excess. Though he proved an indifFerent
Mentor, as will appear in the sequel ; yet I do not by
any means wish so far to injure his memory as to lay to
his charge the blame of my follies and eccentricities,
which I am willing to take on my own account.

I went to meet him at Bath, from whence we
travelled to London in order to forward the necessary
preparations for our journey to Paris. We had not
long arrived at that place before I gave him a specimen
of what he had to expect.

One evening he proposed going to the play ; which,
for certain reasons, I declined.

On his return, he indiscreetly entered my room and
found his hopeful pupil with very indifFerent company,
of which, however, he took no notice ; but went immedi-
ately to bed. In the morning I appeared before him
with all the awkward bashfulness attendant on a first

12 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

offence : but he soon reassured me by treating the matter
as a bagatelle.

Such a morality, so consonant to my own taste, soon
reconciled me to the character of my tutor ; and for
some time we lived together on the best terms imagin-
able. We remained about three weeks at Paris. I
shall not attempt to say any thing at present of this
famous city, so many descriptions of it having been
already given — I mean as it existed ten years ago — for,
since the Revolution it may be described as a place that
stood in such or such a degree of latitude : besides, as I
often visited it since, I shall take occasion to say some-
thing which may give an idea of its present inhabitants.

From Paris we travelled to Auch, where I was to
learn French, and perfect myself in the exercise of riding,
fencing and dancing. This place was fixed upon by my
governor, as he had many acquaintances there whom he
was desirous of seeing.

On my arrival I hired an elegant house, set up a
pack of hounds, procured a stable of hunters, and estab-
lished my house quite a I'angloise. But all this was not
sufficient to satisfy my restless disposition. I therefore
took a house at Cauterets and a small country residence
at Bagneres, both situated in the upper Pyrenees, and
much frequented on account of their mineral waters.
I had likewise a house at Tarbes, which being the capital
of the upper Pyrenees and the bishop's see, with a
magnificent episcopal palace, was a most populous and
gay city. All these places were but a few leagues from
one another ; at each of which I took care to have the
honours of my table done by some favourites. My
tutor, in support of system, was determined to follow
me at least half way ; and accordingly took under his

MY LIFE AT TARBES. 13

protection another fair one, with whom he alternately
visited one of my country houses. But though our
taste and inclinations, in respect to the sex, were per-
fectly similar, yet I found that we generally agreed better
asunder, and therefore his visit at one of my residences
was always a signal for me to remove to the other.

In this manner I spent about a twelvemonth, during
which time I made occasional excursions to Bareges,
famous for its medicinal waters, where I exhibited all the
folly and extravagance peculiar to our countrymen abroad.

I passed the greatest part of my time at my house at
Tarbes, as I found there an intimacy with the Prince and

Princess de R R ,' who had been banished to their

country seat through the intrigues of the Court. This exile,
however, was attended neither with gloom nor melancholy.
Their chateau, which was magnificent, was generally filled
with people of the first rank, and the most remarkable for
wit and talents. Gallantry was the principal pursuit of
the inhabitants and visitors of this fairy castle.

I became acquainted here with Monseigneur de T — 2,
who spent all the time that could be spared from his
pastoral functions, which required his attendance but one
hour in the week, at the Prince's chateau. The austerity
of the priest he threw aside with his clerical habit, and in
•our ioci'e'ty was all life and spirit. I had the good fortune
to be hdncJUfedsvithfais^'^iirticu^ai; attention, which from
' %' p^sbh in Such h'i'gh^estimation could not fail of being
very acceptable to a young rftan,,of my disposition. , I am
indebted to him for much useful information respecting
France, and I shall ever retain for him the greatest esteem
and veneration.

' Filled in In pencil in the MS. " R(ohan) R(ohan)."
' de Tarbes in MS. No. 2.

14 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

The Prince was one of those characters of whom
nothing would be said, if he were not a Prince ! The
Princess, on the other hand, must have attracted notice
in any station : although past forty, she was still a fine
woman ; and had something peculiarly pleasing in her
manners and address. In public she condescended to
treat me in the manner she would a favourite son ; but in
a tete-a-tete she would have been much displeased had I
behaved to her with the respect due to a mother ; and
this, I firmly believe, without any criminal intent, but
merely from the vanity of being admired.

The following scene, which passed between the
Princess, her daughter, and myself, will shew that how-
ever deficient she might have been in female delicacy,
she at least harboured no design against me in her own
person.

She had a daughter, who was at that time about sixteen ;
and though not handsome she was lively and agreeable.
One day the Princess invited me to breakfast with her on
the following morning in her bedchamber. This is so
common in France that it created no surprise in me : I
accordingly repaired to the place of assignation. When
I entered the apartment, the Princess was still in bed and
her daughter seated on one side of it. Breakfast was
served and we conversed for some time on indifferent
subjects. At length the Princess, under pretence of
examining a new pair of stays which her daughter wore,
took off the young lady's handkerchief and left her neck
entirely bare ; all the time observing me with a fixed eye,
in order to discover how I should be affected at such an
extraordinary behaviour. Astonishment, I believe, was
strongly depicted in my countenance, and, libertine as I
was, I could not avoid being shocked at so great an out-

A MATCH PROPOSED. 15

rage against female decorum. When the young lady had
quitted the apartment the Princess asked my opinion of
her daughter, and without waiting for my answer told
me that the young person had conceived a very favour-
able idea of me, and proceeded without further ceremony
to propose a match between us. At first I looked upon
this as a feint ; as I had conceived the idea that the
Princess did not regard me with indifference herself.
But on her persisting in the proposal, I expressed my
acknowledgment in the warmest terms, and promised to
write immediately to my friends on the subject, which I
did that very evening. It was not long before I received
an answer, which contained a positive disapprobation of
the match, on account of the difference of our religions.
This, I must own, was a circumstance which never
occurred to me. My friends were not content with
simply expressing their refusal, but wrote to my tutor, to
remove me with all possible speed from Auch, in which
perhaps he would have found some difficulty had it
not been backed by a motive more powerful than his
authority, and which I am going to relate.

In the neighbourhood of Auch I became acquainted

with the Count de V , a young nobleman of a

large fortune, which he chiefly devoted to his pleasures.
As our dispositions were so congenial, it is not extra-
ordinary that a strict intimacy should soon have com-
menced between us. At his house I fell passionately in
love with a young lady of exquisite beauty. She was a
relation of his, and as I had by this time pretty well got
rid of that mauvaise honte which I carried with me to
France, I did not hesitate long before I made her
acquainted with my passion, and in a short time succeeded
to the utmost extent of my wishes. Our intrigue was

1 6 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

carried 'On with such circumspection that we concealed
it from the knowledge of her mother, notwithstanding
all her vigilance. But there was a third witness likely to
intrude, of which we were not aware, and which rendered
it necessary immediately to concert some measures to
prevent its turning evidence against us. The best
expedient I could devise was to make the Count a
confidant of the whole affair, well knowing the looseness
of his morals in everything in which women were con-
cerned ; nor was I deceived in my expectations. His
advice was to carry off directly his fair cousin from her
relations, and remove her to some place where she might
remain concealed till such time as it might be thought
proper for her to appear again in the world. I accord-
ingly conveyed her secretly to my house at Auch, where
I intended she should continue during my residence in
that part of the country. But unfortunately an Abbe of
whom I learned French, and who had free access to my
house, discovered the secret, and either through envy or
resentment at not having been consulted in the affair,
he read the poor girl so severe a lecture on the enormity
of the sin of being connected with an heretic and the
damnation that must ensue, that I found her, on my re-
turn, bathed in a flood of tears and given up to despair.
I comforted her as well as I could, and exhausted my little
stock of morality, in order to convince her of the ab-
surdity of this Abbe's assertions. It became, however,
necessary to rerrioye her, for fear of worse consequences,
to a place of greater security. As soon as this was
accomplished, I went in quest of Monsieur I'Abbe, whom
I found by the luckiest chance on the parade with some
officers of my acquaintance. I reproached him in very
severe terms with his unfashionable behaviour ; and

I AM THROWN INTO PRISON. 17

chastised him on the spot, by giving him a very severe
caning.

The Abbe made immediate application to a magis-
trate, who without any process or form of trial com-
mitted me to prison. I was, however, soon liberated
by the interposition of the Archbishop of Auch, who
passed his word that I should appear to answer any
charges which might be preferred against me.

In the meantime he wrote an account of the trans-
action to the Minister, who immediately sent an order
that the magistrate should be dismissed for the irre-
gularity of his conduct : for that revengeful Abbe had
brought no less a charge against me than of having
insulted, violently assaulted and raised my sacrilegious
hands against a Priest ; a crime which was punished with
all the severity of the law, and for which the magistrate
thought proper to have me imprisoned and dealt with as
a common malefactor ; nor [do] I know whether I should
not have been doomed to experience the same fate which
the young and unfortunate Chevalier de la Barre suffered
at Abbeville in 1766, had it not turned out, luckily for
me, that this fellow only wore the dress of a Priest, and
had never been ordained ; a fact, the certainty of which
it was the duty of the Magister to ascertain before he
had begun any criminal process against me.

I mention this circumstance as one out of many to
which I was witness, where the slightest offence was
punished with the strictest severity ; and which may
serve as a lesson to democrats and revolutionists, who
have vilified the old government of France as a pretence
for their massacres and pillage.

Before I left Auch I consulted one of the most
experienced lawyers, upon the best means of conveying

1 8 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

away my protegee, without risk to her or myself. His
advice was, that she should [meet] me at a small distance
from town, in the presence of some witnesses, who would
be ready to prove that it was she who inveigled and
carried me off. This was a subterfuge practised in
France to evade the severity of the law against seduction.

At length I quitted Auch, where I had expended
above eighteen thousand pounds, and repaired with my
beauteous Helen to Lyons, and from thence to Montpellier,
where she was delivered of a daughter who died shortly
after. When the mother was sufficiently recovered to be
removed, I placed her in the Convent of the Tiercelets
and allowed her a pension which was regularly remitted
to her until all communication was stopped between
England and France. Since that time all my endeavours
to discover what became of her have been fruitless.

After this inconsiderate proceeding, I went to spend
some time at Marseilles, on a visit to my sister' who was
settled in that city ; and as she was acquainted with most
of the principal inhabitants, I passed my time very
agreeably among them. I was enraptured with the
vivacity and cheerfulness of these Provenjals.

The Marseillese ladies are in general handsome,
excessively gay and without the least restraint in their
conversation ; using the most familiar and unrestrained
expressions to gentlemen as well as to each other without
the least ceremony. This freedom of speech, however,
keeps the bon ton at a distance ; and though very pleasing
in their own circles, becomes very vulgar and tedious to a
nice observer. I was young, had a respectable train of
servants and spoke the French language tolerably well :

^ Probably Lady Stewart.

TRICKS OF TRADERS AT LYONS. 19

this was more than sufficient to gain me admission into
all their parties. But my versatile disposition, or rather
my evil genius, prompted me to quit this pleasant and
harmless society and return to Lyons, where I met with
an adventure, from which I may date all my subsequent
misfortunes.

In this city I could find nothing to amuse me, if I
except the sumptuous entertainments I gave to all those
who chose to partake of them. Magnificent balls and
suppers to the ladies, extravagant and expensive dinners to
the gentlemen, succeeded each other in quick rotation.

The people of Lyons are very different from those of
Marseilles. The latter only think how to make life
agreeable, while the former concentrate all their enjoy-
ments in the eagerness of making a rapid fortune. As an
instance of their interested character, I shall relate a
circumstance not generally known ; and which I should
not have discovered, had not a Lyonese girl led me into
the secret. At Lyons there is a league formed between
the shopkeepers and the other inhabitants against all
strangers who come to visit them. It is usual for
foreigners to bring letters of recommendation to some of
the principal inhabitants for the purpose of procuring
lodging and assisting them in the purchase of whatever
they may stand in need of These complaisant con-
ductors have ten per cent, from the merchant upon every
article which he sells by their recommendation, and for
which he of course takes care to reimburse himself in
the price of his commodities ; so that the purchaser pays
ten per cent, more than he would have done, if he [had]
gone alone to the shop ; and at the same time looks upon
himself as much obliged to his friend for his assistance in
obtaining what he thinks a good bargain.

c 4

20 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

The rich and the poor are here employed in their
shops and warehouses from morning till night. The
spirit of gain is the sole active principle which prevails in
this vast magazine of luxury, which distributes its various
articles to the four quarters of the world.

As to the Lyonese ladies, they possess but few
attractive charms. A certain apathy and listlessness of
manners destroy the effects of any beauty with which
nature may have endowed them ; and which is further
injured by those monstrous wens, from which very few of
them are exempt. I had no resource therefore, but in
the pleasures of the table.

Among my numerous friends and acquaintances were
two Irish gentlemen, whose names I shall conceal ;
because I only wish to impeach myself. I lived with
them in so close an intimacy, that in a short time we
became inseparable. Some time afterwards I received an
anonymous letter, cautioning me to beware of my new
friends, who were represented to be a couple of desperate
gamblers, come from Spa, for the express purpose of
making me the dupe of their execrable trade. They had
received information of my residence at Lyons from one
of their emissaries, whom they employed in such places as
young men of fortune were likely to resort to. I paid but
very little attention to this advice, as I never observed in
either of them the least inclination for play : besides, I
was so little addicted to it myself, that I did not believe
they had sufficient influence over me to induce me to
play, even were they so inclined. However, I shewed
the letter to my tutor, who was of opinion that I should
entirely avoid their company, and gave me some further
exhortation against every species of gaming whatsoever :
yet I was so infatuated with my new acquaintance, that I

AN ACQUAINTANCE WITH GAMBLERS 21

disregarded this good advice and the admonition of my
unknown friend.

Some time afterwards we were invited to dinner by
the two gentlemen, which invitation my tutor declined :
nor could I ever learn what motive induced him not to
accompany me to a place which he himself thought
dangerous. This gave occasion for many of my relations
to think that he was a party concerned in the scheme.
But they certainly did him injustice. He was, it is true,
a man of free principles, but I could never accuse him
of anything unfair or dishonourable ; besides, it was no
uncommon thing with him to excuse himself from parties
to which we were both invited. I therefore went alone
to encounter this pair of worthies.

They had taken care to provide a handsome company
of female beauties, who by their persuasion and example
induced me to sacrifice so liberally to Bacchus at dinner,
that before the dessert was introduced the glasses seemed
to dance before me. Nothing would then satisfy them
but we must drink champagne out of pint rummers,
which soon completed the business.

When I was in a proper state for them to begin their
operations, they one and all proposed playing at hiding
the horse. I was in no condition to refuse anything,
and soon acceded to their proposal, and without being
scarcely conscious that I was engaged in it I lost
fourteen thousand eight hundred pounds on my parole,
exclusive of my ready money, carriage, jewels, etc.
I know not why they even stopped here ; for I was in
such a state that they might have stript me of my
whole fortune. I cannot, however, feel myself much
indebted for this instance of their forbearance. They
contented themselves for the present with a bill for the

22 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

amount, which I drew on La Touche's Bank, and [I]
then went to bed in a state of torpid insensibility.

The first thing I did in the morning was to com-
municate the whole transaction to my governor, with
which he was visibly affected : but as he saw the state of
mind I was in, he forbore saying anything that might
add to my distress, but rather endeavoured to console me
by saying that the evil was not without remedy, and that
at least it would have one good effect by rendering me
more cautious and prevent me from ever falling into such
hands for the future. This, though a negative sort of com-
fort, joined to the natural strength of my animal spirits,
restored me in some measure to a state of tranquillity.

I did not enjoy it long. My banker, on whom I had
drawn for so enormous a sum, communicated the affair to
my friends before he would honour the bill. They
advised him by no means to pay it, and it was returned
protested. This was a most mortifying piece of intelli-
gence to the fraternity ; yet they were not without their
expedients : they advised me to repair immediately to
London, where, upon my fortune being made known, I
should find no difficulty in getting my bills discounted to
any amount I thought proper. As a further inducement
for me to undertake the journey, they offered to remit
half the debt, provided I should succeed in procuring the
remainder.

My tutor was much averse to this scheme, which, he
said, would entirely ruin him in the opinion of my
relations, whose friendship it was so much his interest and
inclination to preserve. But upon my representing to
him the advantage of getting rid of half the debt he at
length consented, and the following plan was concerted
between us, in order to conceal from my friends my

HONESTY OF A FOREIGN BANKER. 23

departure from France. I was to leave with him a series
of letters to my mother, of diiFerent dates, according to
the periods I usually wrote to her, which he was to
dispatch occasionally as if I had been actually on the spot.
This, I must own, I did rather to avoid giving my
mother pain than to remove any anxiety I felt on his
account. I then drew a bill upon Dublin for two
thousand louis-d'ors, with part of which I paid some
debts I owed at Lyons, and the remainder was to bear my
expenses to London. Matters being thus arranged I set
out with one of my creditors, leaving the other with my
tutor, who I believe would gladly have dispensed with
such a companion.

Before I take leave of Lyons and those good-natured
friends, I must mention a trick played on me of a different
nature ; but which, if we consider both the parties con-
cerned, had more knavery in it. In the company of
gamblers, we are, or should be, on our guard; knowing that
plunder is their trade: but we confide in men of business,
from a supposition that they cannot injure us without
hurting their own credit. The following fact, however,
will be a caution to travellers how they sign bills of ex-
change abroad without strictly examining their contents.

I had by this time an unlimited credit on P — d at
Paris. My friends thought this was one of the many
expedients which might be tried to save me from ruin,
and reclaim me from my follies, by inspiring [me] with a
sense of honour and gratitude ; and if it had not the
desired effect, it would at all events prevent me from
raising money by having recourse to usurers.

This Mr. P — gave me letters of credit on all the
principal towns which I visited. I drew on him from all
parts of France, and whenever I owed him ^2000 he

24 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

sent me two bills of exchange, as first and second, on my
banker at Dublin, of the same amount for me to sign,
which I always did without hesitation. But when I
came afterwards to settle with my agent at home, I found
that many of these bills had been paid twice over. This
vile negotiator had drawn them in such a manner as to
make them appear of different tenour and dates. All my
attempts to rectify this mistake and recover the money
have hitherto been fruitless : for whenever I wished him
to confront my checks with his letters of exchange, he
always found some pretence or other to prevent the
investigation. I have reproached him in his own house
with the infamy of his conduct ; and this I have done at
a time when it was so dangerous to have any diiFerence
with a man who was flourishing under the reign of
Robespierre. I can assert with truth and upon my
honour, that I do not think I have been defrauded of less
than ten thousand pounds in this manner. So much for
the honesty of a foreign banker.

On my arrival at Paris we took up our lodgings at
the Hotel Jacob, Faubourg St. Germain. In the evening
I went to the opera, where chance placed me near a lady
of exquisite beauty, whose occupation it was not difficult to
discover, and who, as I soon perceived, set me down as an
object worthy her attention. A conversation therefore
commenced between us, in the course of which she
proved herself a perfect mistress of that species of dialect
which is called jargon in France. After the opera I
offered my hand to conduct her to the lobby, where she
took the opportunity of telling me that her horses being
all out of order, her brother, who was a captain in the
army, had attended her to the opera in his carriage, under
a promise of returning after the performance. As she did

A FRENCH COURTEZAN. 25

not perceive him, she hoped it was not trespassing too far
to request I would send one of my servants to call z. fiacre.
After expressing my astonishment at the want of attention
in her brother, I congratulated myself on its effects, as it
gave me an opportunity of being in some degree useful to
her. I pressed her to accept of my carriage, to which,
after much well-acted repugnance, she consented. I
accompanied her to the house, where I found everything
in the most magnificent style, and perfectly consonant
with the way of living of a person of the first rank and
fashion. However, there were immediately such prepara-
tions made as did not seem intended for her inattentive
brother, nor could I help being struck with the analogy
of my case to that of poor Gil Bias in a like adventure.
However, the good opinion I had of myself, the beauty
of the lady, her engaging and fashionable manners made
me soon forget the comparison. Nor did I think myself
so little versed in scenes of this nature as to suffer myself
to be duped by such an artifice. I remained, therefore,
perfectly satisfied with my own reflections, and attributed
my good fortune to my own merit and address. Supper
was soon served up, which consisted of a variety of
delicacies and the most exquisite wines.

During our repast she gave me a short account of her
history. Her husband had a considerable employment at
Court, and was then in attendance upon his Majesty at
Versailles. I had dismissed my carriage that I might
have some pretence for lengthening my visit, which I
procrastinated till three o'clock in the morning, when I
left her, highly pleased with my evening's entertainment,
and not without having previously obtained her per-
mission to pay my respects the following day.

I became now her constant ckisbeo, and her husband

26 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

was so much engaged in his attendance at Court, that he
had the civility never once to interrupt us. I thought
myself the happiest young fellow in Paris or London.
One day, however, I found her buried in thought and
overwhelmed with the most unfeigned sorrow ; nor could
I at first prevail on her to disclose to her bosom friend
the cause of her uneasiness. After repeated entreaties
she confessed to me that the preceding night, having
supped at the Duke de — , she had been induced to play,
and had lost, besides her ready money, one thousand
louis-d'ors on her parole ; which, if she did not pay in the
course of the day, would not only dishonour her in the
great world, but would be the subject of eternal animosity
and reproach between herself and her husband.

I was so struck with her grief and the plausibility ot
her story, that swift as an eagle I flew to my Hotel and
laid at her feet every sol I had in my possession, which at
that time did not exceed ;C7o°- Quite overpowered
with my generosity, she thanked me in the most
courteous manner, and whatever I could do and say, she
would not accept more than £s°°i saying that with the
help of that sum she should be able to make up the whole
before evening.

I was never better satisfied with myself, in my life,
than when I returned to my Hotel, ^^500 minus in
pocket ; but with the consciousness of having rescued an
amiable young woman of fashion from shame and ruin.
I was so intoxicated with her charms and her fondness
for me, that if she had asked two thousand guineas I
should not have rested a moment till I had raised that
sum.

I do not know how much longer this infatuation
would have lasted, if my creditors had not pressed me

AN APPEAL FROM A CONVENT. 27

very much to proceed to England. I therefore left my
charmer with all the anguish and throbbings of a young
and inexperienced lover, fully determined to return to her
as soon as my affairs should be settled in London.

But I suppose she was glad the farce was over ; for by
what I felt and experienced in the sequel, it could not
remain much longer concealed that she was nothing
better than an intriguante.

As soon as I arrived in London, I endeavoured to get
my bills discounted ; but without effect. I had not been
many days in the capital, when one evening a stranger
entered my room and delivered to me the following
letter : —

"Sir,

"I am now the miserable inhabitant of a
Convent, into which I have been forced by my friends :
were it not for the expectation of regaining my liberty, I
should convince them that I prefer death to a confine-
ment so repugnant to my temper and disposition. From
what I have heard of your character I have conceived the
flattering hope that you will exert your utmost endeavours
to deliver me from this captivity. As a proof of my
gratitude I shall be happy to lay myself and fortune at
your feet.

"The person who will deliver you this letter is the
husband of my nurse, who is still with me ; they are both
in my interest ; and you may place an implicit confidence

in him.

"Signed, C— : P— :"

I knew very well that Miss P — was at Paris, in the
same Convent with Lady B — , her intimate friend, to
whom I had been introduced. I knew likewise that

28 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

Miss P — 's fortune was twenty-five thousand a year,
besides two hundred thousand pounds in ready money.

Though I never had the pleasure of seeing this rich
heiress, yet considering my personal merits and the lady's
acquaintance with Lady B — , her application to me
seemed perfectly natural and consistent with reason. I
read the letter over several times, examined the super-
scription, and at every interval cast a look at the bearer,
to trace if possible any marks of deceit in his countenance;
but I could perceive none : he answered all my questions
with such simplicity and appearance of candour that I
could no longer doubt of the fact.

He told me that he had received the letter from his
wife, who enjoined him to use all his endeavours in per-
suading me to return with him to Paris, as her mistress
was very impatient to see me and to concert measures for
her escape. I at length dismissed him, desiring that he
would come in the evening when he should have his
answer.

My Irish companion, to whom I communicated the
intelligence, was in raptures at the prospect of such a good
fortune, and confirmed me in the design of repairing
immediately to Paris. But, unfortunately, I had not in
my possession more than ten guineas remaining out of
two thousand I had received two months before at Lyons.
In this difficulty I had recourse to my banker for a
supply, which he positively refused, as he feared, and not
without reason, that my return to France would be but a
renewal of my former follies. Upon this I found myself
under the necessity of shewing him the letter, which
when he had read I was both pleased and astonished to
find him entering as warmly into the project as if he had
been a young man of eighteen, without reflection or

PLANNING A RESCUE. 29

experience. My banker was a man of strict honour and
probity: without guile himself, he suspected none in
others ; and though engaged all his lifetime in business,
was as ignorant of the wiles and deceit of mankind as if
he had been the inhabitant of another world. He
offered me all the money I should want for the occasion ;
but wished first to see the bearer of the letter, that we
might regulate our motions accordingly.

When I mentioned this to the foster-father of the
young lady, he was by no means pleased with the
communication I had made, and represented the risk he
should run of being discovered an accomplice in carrying
off a person from a convent, a crime always punished in
France with the utmost severity of the law. I quieted
his apprehensions by assuring him that he might depend
upon the discretion of my banker. He told me he would
consider of it, and that he would have no objection to the
interview in case he could do it without danger to
himself. In the course of two days he returned and
agreed to accompany me to the banker's.

We all three met and dined together at a tavern in
Covent Garden. After some conversation it was finally
determined that he and the banker should set oif directly
for Paris to prepare matters, and they should inform me
whenever my presence became necessary. While we
were giving orders about procuring a carriage my servant
came to inform my new acquaintance that a person
wished to speak to him. At this I perceived that he was
visibly affected. He went out and soon after returned,
saying he was the most unfortunate man in the world ;
that one of his creditors had found him out and got him
arrested, so that it was impossible he could proceed to
Paris. The banker demanded how much the debt was.

30 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

and on being told it was £iS°, he immediately. advanced
this sum, upon which the other retired, as we thought, to
pay his creditor ; but he did not think, proper to return :
nor have we ever set eyes on him since.

One would imagine that this was sufficient to have
unravelled the whole plot ; and it is certain that if I had
been left to my own determination I would have given
up the point without further inquiry. Not so my friend ;
he was too sanguine in the prospect of my advantage not
to persevere while there remained any hope of success.
His next step was to consult my creditor, who watched
me like a tipstaff lest I should slip through his fingers.
His advice was, and for which he had no doubt good
reasons, that the banker should procure some person of
the law who could speak French to accompany him
and advise him in the steps proper to be taken on their
arrival at Paris. He was not long in finding one fit for
his purpose, whom he engaged under promise of allowing
him jC5°° f°'' his attendance.

They soon arrived at Paris, and lost no time in
repairing to the convent, where they were immediately
admitted to the presence of Lady B — , to whom they
presented their credentials, I mean the letter addressed
to me. When she had read it, she desired Miss P —
to be called ; who no sooner cast her eyes on the letter
than she burst into a violent fit of laughter in which
she was joined by her companion, to the manifest
confusion of the two adventurers, who, finding the whole
to be a gross and manifest forgery, slunk away and made
the best of their way back to London.

This was not the worst part of it ; for exclusive of
paying the attorney the stipulated sum, the banker had
the additional mortification of seeing the whole afi^air

MY STEPFATHER INTRODUCED. 31

detailed in all the papers under the title of "A Trip to
Paris, or the Banker taken in."

I found afterwards that the whole had been a plot
laid by the fraternity for the purpose of inveigling me
to the Continent, where they hoped not only to get me
arrested for the bill I had drawn on Dublin, and which
had been returned protested ; but to pursue their further
operations and schemes on me with greater security than
they could do in London, surrounded as I was by my
friends and relations. But though they failed in the
main point, their principal agent had profited something
by his sham arrest.

My health was now so much impaired that I found
it absolutely necessary to apply to medical assistance.
Unluckily it happened that I was recommended to a
physician of eminence who was well acquainted with my
family in Ireland. He immediately conveyed an account
of the state in which he found me, and of my conduct
in general, with which few indeed were unacquainted.
My step-father Mr. N — ' was affected beyond measure
at such an unexpected piece of intelligence, and lost no
time in repairing to me himself.

Although the character of Mr. N — be well known,
I cannot resist the desire I feel of rendering homage to
the eminent qualities of that incomparable man, and
to pay him this small tribute of respect and gratitude.
He is at once the tender husband, the warm friend
and generous benefactor. He is possessed of such
extensive knowledge, of manners so conciliating, as
would alone have procured him friends, were he not
endowed with every other qualification that can com-

1 Mr. N — on this and the next page appears as Mr. R — in MS. No. 2.
See Preface.

32 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

mand and ensure the love and veneration of his fellow
citizens.

I was much afflicted at the sight of this sincere
friend, who upon entering my apartment told me that on
the first intelligence of my illness, he had come to convey
me to his lodging, where I should be better accommo-
dated than at a public Hotel ; and at the same time be
at some distance from a society to whom I might impute
the greatest part of my misfortunes. He reprobated in
very severe terms the conduct of my governor, who, he
said, might at least have accompanied me to London,
since he had not sufficient authority to prevent my
coming myself. He next took my creditor to task for
the atrociousness of his conduct in pillaging a young
man and enticing him away from his tutor, in hopes of
raising money at an exorbitant interest in London, by
which he had introduced sorrow and distress into a
respectable family. This was so little relished by the
person to whom it was addressed, that he thought proper
to call Mr. N — to account for the liberty he took with
his character. Mr. N — was not a man to be brow-
beaten, and the affair might have had serious conse-
quences but for the interposition of some friends who
contrived that the matter should be settled in a manner
more pleasing to all parties.

CHAPTER II.

My Return to Dublin — An Extraordinary Wager — A Sea Journal —
Description of an Albacore — The Moorish Fleet — Gibralter — The
Grand Battery — St. George's Hall — Poco Roco, or Eliott's Parlour
— Ince*s Gallery — Willis's Battery, or Queen's Gallery — The King's
Bastion — St. Michael's Cave — Some remarks on Gibralter.

When I had sufBciently recovered my health, I
accompanied Mr. R — ^ to Dublin, where I was received
and treated like the Prodigal Son. I took a house, hired
a number of servants, and upon looking into my affairs,
found that I had expended, exclusive of my ready money,
about twenty thousand pounds of my fortune. Still,
however, I might have been happy ; I had an ample
property remaining and was caressed by my friends, who
looked upon my past follies with indulgence and as
merely proceeding from the ebullitions of youth.

This quiet life did not suit my volatile disposition :
in order, therefore, to vary the scene, I sent over to
London for a female companion, with whom I had been
intimate, and who immediately accepted the invitation.
I had no motive whatever in giving her the preference
but that she was an exotic. My inamorata was neither
distinguished for wit or beauty ; but I will do her the
justice to say that she had none of that rapacity and
extravagance so common with the generality of her
profession. What I expended on her account was
from my own free will and suggestion. I hired her a
' See Preface.

34 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

magnificent house, suitably furnished, and settled an
allowance of five hundred a year on her : this was merely
pro forma, for she cost me upwards of five thousand. At
her house I kept my midnight orgies, and saw my friends,
according to the fashionable acceptation of the word.

But soon growing tired of this manner of living, I
conceived the strange idea of performing, like Cook, a
voyage round the world ; and no sooner had it got
possession of my imagination, than I flew off at a
tangent with my female companion to Plymouth, in
order to put my plan in execution, which was to pur-
chase a vessel of two hundred and eighty tons burthen,
and to carry twenty-two guns. I entered into treaty
with a builder, who engaged to furnish me with one of
the above description for ten thousand pounds, equipped
in every respect, and to be ready in the space of four
months.

This affair settled I returned to Dubhn, where being
one day at dinner with some people of fashion at the
Duke of L — 's,^ the conversation turned upon my in-
tended voyage, when one of the company asked me to
what part of the world I meant to direct my course first,
to which I answered, without hesitation, " to Jerusalem."
This was considered by the company as a mere jest ; and
so, in fact, it was ; but the subject still continuing, some
observed that there was no such place at present existing ;
and others that, if it did exist, I should not be able to
find it. This was touching me in the tender point : the
difficulty of an undertaking always stimulated me to the
attempt. I instantly offered to bet any sum that I would

1 Duke of Leinster's — William Robert, the 2nd Duke, whose town
residence was Leinster House, since occupied by the Royal Dublin
Society.

AN EXTRAORDINARY WAGER. 35

go to Jerusalem and return to Dublin within two years-
from my departure. I accepted without hesitation all
the wagers that were offered me, and in a few days the
sum I had depending on this curious expedition exceeded
twelve thousand pounds.^

My whole mind was now engaged on this new
project. I was inflamed with the desire of doing what
had not been attempted by any of my countrymen, at
least by those of my own age ;• and I figured to myself
the pleasure I should feel at my return to my own
country after having accomplished this undertaking :
what admiration I should excite by the detail of my
wonderful adventures, my hairbreadth scapes, and the
descriptions I should give of the beautiful Turks, Greeks,
and Georgians, and all the farrago with which my heated
imagination was filled.

I was now nearly of age, and Mr. N — ^ peremptorily
insisted that I should again examine the state of my
fortune ; with which request, however unwilling, I was
under the necessity of complying. I found it still more
diminished by the variety of my dissipation and extrava-
gance. This worthy man, with the greatest delicacy and
gentleness, represented to me then, that the way of life
in which I was engaged, must inevitably lead me to ruin ;
that my extraordinary, not to say scandalous, establish-
ment formed for the English lady did not stand me in
less than five thousand a year ; that the annual expense of
my ship, exclusive of the first cost, would amount to as
much more ; and that at the rate I proceeded, I must in
a short time be reduced to indigence, and depend for
support upon my friends and relations : that the attach-
ment of the former, as I have since experienced, would

' " Fifteen thousand pounds," MS. No. 2. ' I.e., Mr. R— , see Preface.

D 2

36 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

cease, when the sunshine of my fortunes, by which they
were now attracted, should disappear ; and as to the
latter, he knew my pride of heart too well to suppose
that I could live under the mortification of owing the
means of existence to any one, however nearly allied.
He then addressed me in the following affectionate
manner. " My dear M — i, do you look upon me as a
friend ? " I assured him that the proofs he had given
me of his friendship were too deeply engraven on my
heart ever to be erased ; that I looked up to him as a
father, and that I should ever esteem it as my greatest
happiness to be permitted to call him by that sacred title.
"Well then," said he, with tears in his eyes, "I conjure
you by your friendship and ' the regard you allow me to
have, that you will part with this woman and abandon
the wild scheme of the voyage : that you will bestow
your whole attention on the adjustment of your affairs ;
on fixing an establishment suited to your income ; and,
finally, that you will think of uniting yourself to some
person of prudence and virtue, which will be the means
of saving you from that precipice on which you are now
tottering : you will then become a good husband, a good
father and a good citizen ; three essential qualifications
for every honest man, and without which there can be
no real enjoyment in life."

Had he required of me any other sacrifice than the
two above mentioned, I should have complied without
hesitation ; but these were my favourite hobby-horses :
and though I would not offend Mr. N — - by a direct
refusal, I requested he would give me till the next day
to consider of it ; which interval I employed in deliberat-
ing how I could best soften my non-compliance with his

' There has been an erasure here of a W, see Preface. ^ Ihid.

MY JOURNEY BEGINS. 37

request, so as to avoid giving him offence. This I could
not do in such a manner but that the good man was
sensibly touched at my strange infatuation ; and any other
but himself would have at once abandoned me to my fate.
But his zeal to serve me was as steady as my perseverance
in my own undoing was obstinate : so that by dint of
argument and persuasion, he at length prevailed so far as
to exact a promise from me that I would at least comply
with half his request, and give up either one or the other,
leaving the choice entirely to myself.

As I was now really attached to the lady, I agreed to
give up the ship, if he would undertake to get her off my
hands ; which he did by means of a small compensation to
the builder, who, I understand, afterwards sold her to the
Empress of Russia.

This matter being settled, my whole attention was
directed towards my expedition to Jerusalem, in which I
intended my fair one should accompany me. But the
inconveniencies of a female companion in traversing so
much sea and land were pointed out to me in such a
manner as induced me to give up that part of my scheme ;
and I accordingly left her in London on an allowance of
two hundred a year, which was regularly paid her till all
my property was sold.

Having now arranged everything which I thought
necessary for my pilgrimage, I set out for Deal on the
20th of September, 1789,^ where I was joined by
Mr. W — ,2 who had promised to accompany me. I
hired a vessel called the London, to carry me to Smyrna
and touch at Gibralter. On the 7th of October we went
on board and set sail immediately.

' Obviously a mistake for 1788.
* Mr. Wilson, see Preface.

38 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

October the gth.

We commenced our voyage with favourable gales,
and this day we found ourselves in the Bay of Biscay.
The sea ran prodigiously high, and for several hours the
motion of the ship surpassed every thing I had ever seen
or felt before. The sea rolled over our heads and washed
every thing off the deck. One prodigious wave striking
the ship in the counter, set her for some moments on her
beam-ends, knocked the man from the helm, and almost
killed him : on my endeavouring to assist him I nearly
shared the same fate, as I was thrown by another sea
with great violence against my companion, and had my
hip and thigh bruised in a most shocking manner.

Night coming on, it blew harder and harder, and
though the sailors termed it a hard gale, I really thought
it deserved the appellation of a heavy storm ; nor was I,
if countenances are allowed to reveal the emotions of the
mind, the only person on board of that opinion. The
captain himself acknowledged it to be the hardest gale he
had encountered for seven years.

The return of day, however, promised us more
moderate weather ; and the wind shifting, we had in a
few hours even less of it than we wished. I now began
to feel the vanity of human wishes, and the late storm
having made me somewhat religious I could not help
reflecting how little we are able to judge for ourselves. I
had, some hours before, most fervently prayed for less
wind, and now I was about to invoke heaven for more !
These considerations naturally induced me to be satisfied
with the calm rather than have it exchanged for a storm.

My friend and I had been informed, when in London,
that it was expedient, considering the hazardous expedi-
tion we were going to undertake, that we should let our

AN ALBACORE. 39

beards grow, in order that we might [be] as little noticed
as possible in those countries we intended to visit ; which
could be effected only by dressing ourselves as much as
possible in the habit of the country. Accordingly, we
had not shaved since we left London ; so that by this
time we really appeared ridiculous and grotesque figures.
We would more than once have undergone the operation
of the razor had we not been well assured that a long
beard would be of more use to us and protect us more
efficaciously than long swords, or all the guards we could
procure. This appeared to us a better scheme than either
to fight the Arabs or make them large presents.

October the \t,th.
Early in the morning I was awoke by the noise of
the crew on deck, who had a large fish fast at my line ; I
got up just time enough to see him brought on board.
This fish, known to the sailors by the name of Albacore,
was the most beautiful I ever beheld : it had in shape
and colour much the advantage of the Dolphin, remark-
ably strong and full made at the shoulder, and tapering
towards the tail. He weighed thirty-seven pounds when
gutted, and it was out of my power to [prevent] the cook
from cutting him open before he was a moment out of
the water. I observed that while he underwent the
severe operation of having his inside taken out, he lay
as if totally devoid of feeling ; but scarcely had his
entrails been taken from him, when, as if to make
amends for his apparent torpor, he beat the deck with
such astonishing violence and rapidity that it was im-
possible to approach him. At length I was pleased to
see an end put to his miserable existence by a blow with
an axe, which the cook gave him on the head, which

40 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

cutting it almost asunder, entirely deprived this beautiful
animal of life.

I observed one peculiarity in this fish, which I should
[not] pass over unnoticed : I remarked his heart to be as
large as that of a half-grown lamb, and curiosity having
led me to take it up in my hand, I was much astonished
to find it so convulsed as to force open my fingers when
pressed upon it. I laid it down and took out my watch
to see how long it would retain its motion, and much to
my surprise the heart moved on the deck for nearly two
minutes after I had thrown it down. It was a most
excellent fish, and for several days was served as the first
dish at table. I saw with regret that we could not replace
him, and therefore ordered some of it to be pickled, and
found it as good as any sturgeon I had ever eaten.

October the 2.0th.

We saw a whale quite near us. This stupendous
animal did not in the least appear to mind us : it seemed
to keep company with the ship, and followed it for many
minutes, spouting up water to a very great height, and
once he was so near as to wet our mizzen half way up
with the spray. Had we been at all provided with
harpoons, we might, I am certain, have made him a very
easy prey.

October the o.bth.

We had now been six days beating to windward,
expecting every day to weather Cape St. Vincent ; and
what was most extraordinary [was], that let us be on which
tack we would, whether steering East, West, North, or
South, we were sure to have the wind change, as we did,
and blow directly in our teeth. This led me to remark,
that, in order to live pleasantly at sea, two quahfications

OFF THE COAST OF SPAIN. 41

were absolutely necessary : in the first place, a man must
possess an uncommon share of philosophy, and in the next
a good stock of patience ; particularly if he has the mis-
fortune of being confined to a merchant ship, with a long
voyage before him, absent from all the endearing objects
of his heart, and the wind constantly against him, with
no appearance of a change in his favour. In a situation
like this, one has much time for reflection. I hope that
those I made may be of service to me, and by way of
assisting them, I proposed to my friend to drink a bottle
of Madeira, and set his philosophy and mine afloat
together. This succeeded beyond my expectation ; the
heavy hours passed away in jocund merriment. We
forgot that the wind was against us, and night coming
on, we slept as well and contentedly as if we had the
most prosperous gales in the world.

The next morning we saw a number of fishing boats
off the Spanish land, and through my glass I could dis-
cern the village of Saltas in the land of Sinas, or Bodden-
does,i so called from the redness of its soil. Saltas, as well
as I could judge at the distance of two or three leagues,
is a neat pretty village situated at the foot of a very high
hill. The country on both sides is very beautiful, and
mostly covered with underwood. I should have liked to
go on shore ; but not having bills of health for the place,
and [my] knowing the strictness observed by the Spaniards,
in preventing all strangers from landing on any part of
their coast, especially from on board a Turkey ship,
induced me to give up all thoughts of it. Besides, the
captain related to me a circumstance which some years
[before] happened to himself. He was then mate of a
merchantman bound to the Levant, and finding the ship

1 I cannot identify any of these places.

42 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

weather-locked upon the Spanish coast near Malaga, he
was desired by the captain to go on shore in search of a
few necessaries. He had scarcely landed when he was
seized and carried before a magistrate, who sent him to
prison, where he lay for upwards of ten days, till the ship
went to Gibralter and the Governor was informed of the
circumstance, who on application had him restored to
liberty, though not till after he had paid the gaolers very
considerable fees. This was more than suiRcient to shake
me in my resolutions, and I was obliged to content myself
some time longer with the exercise that walking the
deck afforded.

At length the wind became favourable, and the
captain revived our spirits by informing us, that should
the wind keep as it was, we should be in Gibralter in
thirty-six hours. I had now been twenty-one days on
board, and when we sailed from the Downs we expected
that much less than half that time would have set us on
the Rock. I could not help growing a little impatient,
and the more so as I had a long voyage before me and
little time allotted to perform it.

I had not much leisure to cherish these pleasing
expectations, as in a few hours the wind kindly returned
to its old quarter. My patience began to be nearly
exhausted ; for the more I endeavoured to reason with
myself, the more I was convinced of the fallacy of human
happiness : one moment we were elated with appearances,
which vanish in another ; and reason, which we are told
should be our support, only serves to convince us more
fully of our wretched insignificance. In my opinion, a
man should either be a Seneca, or quite a fool, to pass
through life with any tolerable share of comfort. I am
confident that I am no philosopher, and though I have

THE MOORISH FLEET. 43

vanity sufficient to prevent me from thinking myself a
fool ; yet were I called on to give my opinion, which of
the two characters I think the most likely to conduce to
happiness, I should not find it a hard matter to decide in
favour of the latter.

October the ijth.

At break of day we saw the coast of Barbary, distant
four leagues, and soon after we were abreast of Cape
Spartel, when we were very much alarmed at the appear-
ance of several ships within gunshot of us, which we
discovered to be the Moorish Fleet. It consisted of six
small frigates, that seemed to mount from twenty to thirty-
six guns each. They appeared to be full of men, above
twice the number we have in ships of that size ; notwith-
standing which they obeyed their signals very clumsily.
Yet on the whole I thought the ships sailed well on
a wind, and had they been more expert at handing
[.'' handling] and setting their topsails, they would have
kept tolerable pace with us. We observed them after some
time make a signal, which immediately gave us the alarm :
the foremost ship ordered the boats to be hoisted out, and
on the first being let down into the water we were
sufficiently aware of their intentions not to wait for a
second. We crowded all the sail we could, and were in
about two hours out of their reach.

These boats most undoubtedly were intended to board
us : whether their views were hostile or not, I cannot
decide : but in either case it would have reduced us to
the dire necessity of performing forty days quarantine at
Gibralter, as we afterwards learned, had we been boarded
by any ship whatever from the coast of Barbary.

We sailed close along the Barbary shore, and found a

44 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

strong tide hurrying us into the Gut of Gibralter, at the
rate of seven knots. The coast appeared very wild and
the shore very bold all the way from Cape Spartel to a
very high land, called Apes' Hill, from the number of
animals of that name that is seen on it. The face of the
country is rocky, and yet covered with much underwood,
which has an uncommonly wild appearance. Here and
there you are struck with a romantic prospect, and some
spots are very pretty. But as you proceed to the east-
ward the country carries with it the appearance of an
uninhabited sandy desert.

On the following morning we found ourselves in the
very centre of the Gut or Mouth of the Straits ; and on
both sides the most beautiful sea-landscape offered itself
to our view ; on the South the uneven surface of the
Barbary shore forming itself into a bay, at the West end
of which is the town of Tangiers ; on the North, nearly
opposite, and on the Spanish shore, is the beautiful village
of Tercese [.?]. The immense height of the rocks ascend-
ing perpendicularly from the surface of the sea strikes
the imagination with sublime though awful ideas.

In the middle of the Channel that runs between these
two shores, as you open the entrance into the Mediter-
ranean, there runs a tide, which in the summer months
always sets in to the westward ; and to the eastward in
the winter months, at the rate of five knots. From the
manner in which this tide appears to boil up in different
places I should imagine the ground to be very foul, or
that there runs a contrary tide at the bottom, either of
which would give it the appearance it now has.

I cannot be supposed to affect feelings that may be
fairly called peculiar to the moment, when in the midst
of that immense body of water which washes a shore of

THE ROCK. 45

no less than three thousand miles, even in a direct course,
to the head of the Black. Sea, I discovered so many new,
interesting and variegated scenes, which were much
heightened by the reverberation of the sound of cannon
through a chain of mountains, and the setting sun
plunging itself into the Atlantic directly central to our
situation, and which was sometimes obscured by the
interposition of impending clouds.

On Wednesday, October 29th, we discovered the
Rock of Gibralter. I had remained on deck from five
in the morning with all the eagerness that curiosity
and expectation could inspire. The renown of that
memorable siege was too fresh in my memory not to be
stimulated by the greatest impatience to hear those facts
recorded on the spot which immortalized its brave
defenders and their veteran chief.

I had from earliest youth formed a wish of visiting
Gibralter, and the eagerness with which I waited for the
time of my getting on shore is not to be described. But
I was never more disappointed in my life than at the first
appearance which this so much celebrated place [seemed]
to present at two miles' distance from the sea : nothing
to strike the eye but the height of the rock and a few
straggling houses : not the appearance of a battery, or
the smallest indication of a fortified place. Nor was my
opinion peculiar to myself in this respect, for I have
heard since that a stranger on his first approach to
Gibralter must necessarily be somewhat disappointed
from the first view [that] place offers from the sea. But
how soon is he undeceived when he sets his foot on
shore, and with what pleasure and admiration does he
gaze on everything he sees around him. Nature and art
have gone hand in hand for many years : and if nature

46 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

has been lavish of her favours, art has done much indeed;
and is still exerting herself to improve her wonderful
productions by rendering this celebrated fortress abso-
lutely impregnable, to advance the grandeur and glory,
the interests and honour of the British name.

I was just stepping into the boat to go on shore when
the captain requested I would return to the cabin and
look at myself in a glass : nor could I help laughing at
the ridiculous appearance I made. In dressing my hair
the servant had taken care to powder my beard, which
was now grown an inch long. I therefore held a council
of war whether or not I should appear before the
Governor in such a manner ; and the majority giving it
against me, I was obliged to yield to the considerations of
the present, and lose sight of the motives of prudence
which had made me take these precautions against the
future. Consequently my venerable beard was condemned
to undergo the operation of the razor, and it required aU
the exertions of my persuasive eloquence to get a respite
for the poor whiskers.

I inquired my way to the Governor's, and as I
proceeded through the streets was much [struck] with
the variety of figures that I met running promiscuously
backward and forward, and the odd and confused noise
resulting from a dozen different languages spoken at once.
Jews of all nations. Moors, Turks, and Christians were
indiscriminately mixed together, each having a different
dress, countenance, and religion. To me all was mas-
querade. I could not have been more amused in the
centre of the Pantheon ; nor hit upon a character to
which I could have done more justice than the one I
naturally filled at the time, viz., that of a country booby,
gaping and staring at all I saw.

I CALL ON THE GOVERNOR, 47

I did not find his Excellency^ at home ; but having
been informed of my arrival, he had done me the honour
of leaving an invitation for my friend and me to dine
v^fith him at three. We strolled about the town till that
hour, viewing and examining the devastations committed
during the late siege. We were received with all that
easy politeness and affability of manners which so
eminently distinguish his Excellency's character, and
denote the gentleman, as well as the social companion. I
had the honour of being well acquainted with the General
some years before, when he was on the staff in Ireland,
during the administration of the late much lamented
Duke of Rutland, whose public and private virtues can
only be forgotten when time is no more.

He recollected me with pleasure, and I knew suffi-
ciently of my friend the General to be certain of meeting
with excellent cheer at the Governor's.

We ate, drank, laughed and talked a good deal for
the time, but early in the evening the company broke up
and I was going to retire when my friend recommended
me to his secretary, Mr. B — , who, in order to make
me pass the evening as pleasantly as possible, had invited
a party of young people to a little dance. Though rather
fatigued, and in boots, I could not withstand the tempta-
tion, when I was presented to a very beautiful young
Spaniard, agee de seize ans, aussi fraiche que jeune, et
aimable que jolie. My pretty partner did not dislike a
fandango. Her uncle, as he was called by some, though
others informed me that he was more nearly related to
her, played the base-viol. He was a fat friar of the
Franciscan order, and so much of the bon-vivant as to
have been excommunicated by the Pope.

1 General Geo. Augustus Eliott, Lord Heathfield, K.B.

48 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

After I had danced for three hours, I found myself
under the necessity of asking quarter from my fair
partner ; and I found much more pleasure in the conver-
sation of this beautiful girl than I had experienced even
in gratifying her in the fandango.

The next day I received visits from several of the
officers of the Garrison, among whom I had the pleasure
of meeting with many old friends and school-fellows,
vying with each other who should shew me the greatest
politeness. Accompanied by some of them, I walked out
to see the town. We first examined the storehouses and
barracks that had been destroyed in the lower part of the
town, and which had not been rebuilt since the siege.
Afterwards we visited the different batteries that are con-
structed at the foot of the Rock : among the most re-
markable are Orange Bastion, Montague Bastion, Saluting
Battery, King's Bastion, Prince George's Battery, and
South Bastion. They are situated on the Line Wall to
the west of the town. There are many other batteries
on the different heights above, to support these in time
of action.

As we were proceeding to make the tour of the
different works that defended the bottom of the Rock,
we arrived at Waterpoint, where we found the Com-
modore's, now Admiral Cosby's, boat, just come on shore
in order to conduct me on board the Trusty. He received
me with the most friendly cordiality ; and after inquiring
about all our mutual friends in Ireland and England, he
offered me every assistance that lay [in] his power ; telling
me I might command his boat whenever I should want
her ; and as the most curious and interesting part of the
Rock must be seen by water, this kind offer, of which I
availed myself several times, was of the greatest service.

THE GRAND BATTERY. 49

and enabled me amply to satisfy my curiosity. From
thence we visited the Grand Battery, situated on the
north, and thirty feet in height. It commands the two
entrances from the isthmus into the garrison ; and in the
last siege this battery, with only half its guns in play, was
more than sufficient to prevent any boat from landing at
any part of the isthmus, having the entire command of
both the northern entrances which run parallel to each
other. I spent much time in examining and admiring
this great battery ; but the General's hour for dinner
approaching, I was forced to make a precipitate retreat,
and was lucky enough to find myself in good time.

It is the fashion in Gibralter, as well as in London
and Dublin, to complain in the midst of a most sumptuous
repast, of the hardness of the times and the dearness and
scarcity of provisions. I was assured, however, that they
were then as much so as during the siege, owing to the
disagreement which subsisted between the garrison and
his Moorish majesty, who had taken it into his head to
quarrel with them and refuse them provisions. It was
even said that in one of his drunken fits he had sworn
by his beard never to be on better terms with Gibralter.

Our next excursion was to view and examine St.
George's Hall and Gallery and the different embrasures
cut out of the solid rock, that have been made and are
still carrying on, at an immense expense. The morning
being uncommonly warm, and our intended promenade
being on a continual ascent, we thought it proper to hire
mules. As we ascended the hill, every object struck me
with new and pleasing sensations. The first thing I ob-
served was the apple geranium, growing everywhere spon-
taneously, and in full bloom ; likewise in different places,
the variegated geranium ; while the general face of the

50 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

Rock produced at this season a considerable luxuriance
and verdure, and was ornamented with neat cottages built
by officers, and many gardens formed and cultivated with
vast labour and expense, the produce of which every
proprietor of grounds sends to the common market, after
the wants of his own house are provided for, and which
afford a supply tolerably adequate to the great demands
of this numerous Garrison. The uncultivated parts of the
Rock produce vast quantities of the Palmetto, with a
considerable variety of more humble plants and aromatic
herbs. But the quantity of ruins still visible and the
number of respectable habitations that were reduced to
mere wrecks recalled to the mind of the spectator all the
sufferings their inhabitants must have experienced during
the siege.

The town below had the most picturesque appearance ;
the number of different batteries planted in, every quarter
and seen at one view, make [one] consider with surprise
the temerity of an enemy that would dare to approach
within their range. In our ascent we commanded a very
distinct view of the Causeway and Inundation from lower
Forbiss^ to Landport, and the whole range of Line
Wall from thence past the new Mole as far as to
Roscia Bay.

After we had made considerable progress in our ascent
to St. George's Cave, we stopped for some minutes to see
a cavern called Poco Roco, or small cave, in which
General EHott, late Lord Heathfield, resided for some
time during the commencement of' the late siege: This
Uttle rock is situated nearly four hundred feet from the
surface of the sea, and about one-third ol the way up the

1 Forbes's Barrier is evidently intended. See Drinkwater, " Siege of
Gibraltar," pp. 204, 205. Plan.

ELIOTT'S PARLOUR. s'

Rock. The General had the front of it built up, and he
lived on this spot for a month when the Spaniards first
began the attack. They had the incivility to throw^
many shells near this humble abode, with a wish to
dislodge this brave veteran.

From Poco Roco Cave, now called Eliott's Parlour,
we remounted our mules, and rode upwards of one
hundred feet higher up the Rock, when we arrived at the
entrance of Ince's Gallery, so denominated after the name
of the man who planned and executed that great work.
We unlocked the door and proceeded forward into this
wonderful Gallery, hewn out of the solid rock. It
extends in length, from the entrance to the most easterly
part, seven hundred and seventy feet. In that whole
extent, its gradual descent is about eighty-four feet : its
breadth about eighty feet, and its height from seven to
nine feet.

It has fifteen different ports or embrasures, each of
which is occupied by a long thirty-two pounder. These
guns are supplied with ammunition from seven magazines
hewn out of the rock of the Gallery, at equal distances ;
and in time of a siege they can be played with
astonishing effect on the Spanish lines, without the
possibility of receiving any injury.

When you arrive at the end of this Gallery, you enter
St. George's Hall. Here, if possible, your astonishment
is still increased, and you are really lost in amazement ; a
vast and magnificent Hall opens to your view, into which
you descend from Ince's Gallery by a spacious flight
of steps.

St. George's Hall has seven large embrasures, by
which it is lighted : three of them are to the east, three
to the west, and one in the centre, to the north. The

E 2

52 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

floor of the Hall from the steps to the north part is forty-
six feet : its extreme breadth forty, and its height in
general eighteen. The thickness of the rock through
which the ports are cut is fifteen feet, and each port has
a long thirty-two pounder.

I observed to my friend how very highly I thought
this vast subterraneous work was finished, and in what a
masterly manner the workman must have used his chisel,
so as scarcely to leave an edge or the least roughness on
any part of the rock, which was polished with the
greatest care : but my astonishment much increased when
they informed me that it was intended to have the Hall
and Gallery wainscoted from one end to the other ; this
would answer a most salutary purpose in case of a
desperate siege, when the barracks of the town should be
destroyed. Here would be a capital retreat for the
soldiers, and they would be better lodged than troops
usually are in the best barracks. Their hammocks might
be slung to the ceiling and drawn close by pulleys during
the day. Their firearms could be most commodiously
hung in gun-racks along the side of the Gallery, and
there would be here at once complete barracks large
enough to lodge six regiments.

After I had spent full three hours in viewing with
much pleasure St. George's Hall and Ince's Gallery, we
descended the Rock and came to the old batteries at
Willis's, so called from the name of the person who first
constructed them.

Under Willis's we went to see another curious work,
now carrying on and nearly finished, called Queen's
Gallery : it is similar to St. George's and extends north
and north-west. When finished it will add exceedingly
to the strength and security of Gibralter ; as there will be

THE KING'S BASTION. 53

an excavated communication between all the lines, by
which ammunition of every kind can be conveyed at all
times wherever it is wanted.

From Queen's Gallery we descended the hill and
went to the King's Bastion, begun fourteen years ago.
The first stone, which weighed seven tons, was laid by
General Boyd' on the 28th of March, 1774. His
speech upon this occasion seems to have been dictated by
the spirit of prophecy.

"May this work, which I nominate the King's
Bastion, repel the united efforts of France and Spain ; and
may it be as ably defended, as I make no doubt it will be
skilfully constructed." ^ The brave veteran lived to see
his prayer fulfilled in all its parts, and his remains are now
deposited in a tomb constructed by his own order in the
centre of the Bastions.

This great battery is of a semicircular form : its
estimate was laid at twenty-one thousand pounds, but, like
all other estimates, by the time it was completed it did
not cost less than fifty thousand. It was from this
Bastion that the flat-bottomed boats, or floating batteries,
were destroyed by red-hot shot during the late siege.
General Eliott had dining tables made from the wrecks of
these boats, on which I had several times the pleasure of
dining with the Governor.

After our morning's excursion we returned to town a
good deal fatigued, I in particular, by the excessive heat,

1 Lieut.-Gen. Sir R. Boyd, K.B., Colonel of 39th Foot, in 1788
Lieut.-Governor of Gibraltar.

' This speech as given in Drinkwater's " Siege of Gibraltar," 4th ed.,
1790, runs as follows : — " This is the first stone of a work which I name
the King's Bastion : may it be as gallantly defended as I know it will be
ably executed, and may I live to see it resist the United Efforts of
France and Spain." — p. 290.

54 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

to which I was not inured like my companions. I dined
this day at the mess of the i8th Foot, with my friend,
and as it turned out, my future fellow-traveller.
Captain M — -^

I partook here, as indeed at all the other tables in the
Garrison, of most excellent cheer, a well-regulated mess,
good cookery, excellent wines and a most gentlemanlike
society. With these inducements I trust I may be
pardoned for having been tempted to excess ; particularly
as I had an object in view, which I thought of much
importance, and was determined to carry my point this
evening, if possible.

My friend with whom I dined was at this time just
going to become his own master, having obtained leave
of absence and being about to return to England with the
Commodore, who was then quitting this station. It was
my anxious wish to prevail on him to defer his visit to
England and join me in my intended expedition, in
which I was so fortunate as to succeed, and from this
moment we considered ourselves as embarked in one
common cause, in which we felt equally interested.

We terminated, at a late hour, a jovial, pleasant
evening, and parted to meet the next morning for another
excursion.

Saturday, Nov. ist.

I was determined to explore St. Michael's Cave, as I
did not wish to leave Gibralter without seeing this
wonderful work of nature. The Governor had promised
me every assistance I should want, and accordingly he
had the goodness to send me twelve chosen men with
torches, and a guide, with two hundred fathoms of rope
to facilitate my subterraneous descent, as I was determined

' Capt. Moore.

ST. MICHAEL'S CAVE. 55

to go to the bottom of this cave, or at least, as far as any
other person had ever been.

At nine in the morning I set out, accompanied by
Captain S — 1 of the Royal Engineers and my friend
Captain W — .^ We were mounted on mules and
clambered up a very steep ascent. We arrived after an
hour's ride at the mouth of the cave, where having
refreshed ourselves with some Madeira, and summoned up
our courage, we followed, with torches in our hands, our
Genoese guide, and after encountering many difficulties,
arrived at the first great chamber of this wonderful
Cavern.

It would be ridiculous in the extreme for me to
attempt the description of those awful beauties which
surrounded us on all sides. The different crystallizations
and the many fantastic structures which appear to support
the ceiling of this great ante-chamber require, to be truly
delineated, that descriptive talent which so peculiarly
distinguishes the writings of some of our poets ; where
the beauties of nature are heightened by the glowing
traits of taste and imagination. From what I had seen
I felt myself inspired with the most eager desire to
proceed.

We descended from this first great apartment, by the
assistance of ropes, about sixty fathoms lower, where we
landed ourselves in nearly the same kind of chamber we
had left above. Having provided ourselves with straw,
we had it lighted, and in a few moments the whole place
was illuminated. Reversed pyramids of petrified water,
thirty and forty feet in length, hanging from the ceiling

^ Either Alexander Sutherland, Charles Shipley, or Thos. Skinner,
according to the Army List for 1788. ' Wilson.

56 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

everywhere, and reflecting the light in different colours,
had the most beautiful appearance, and struck the
imagination with the most sublime ideas. The air still
retained its salubrity, and the only unpleasant circumstance
that occurred to us was the number of bats, which
everywhere flew against us and interrupted our solitary
meditations.

We remained in this second chamber till all our straw
was consumed, and then proceeded on our journey by the
help of ropes which were fastened at the entrance. We
descended almost perpendicularly fifty fathoms. I now
began to find my body rather heavy for my arms to
support much longer ; and with some impatience asked
my guide below me whether we should soon get to the
bottom. He answered me that we had already reached
it. I made haste to follow him, and soon found myself
on my legs. I remained some time panting for breath
and much exhausted. As soon as my friend W — had
joined me, the rest of the party having already deserted
us, we proceeded to the spot which our guide informed
us was the bottom. This last apartment was not half the
size of the other two, and the crystallizations had totally
altered their form. Instead of the long petrified icicles,
the whole ceiling and sides of this chamber appeared
covered with large bunches of grapes, of different colours,
red, white and blue, as exact as if the fruit itself had been
hung up everywhere. I broke off several, and have kept
them since as a great curiosity.

Our guide now told us that we had seen all that was
worth visiting, and advised us, on account of the foulness
of the air, to go no lower. I asked him if he had ever
known anyone to have gone farther. He said he had
himself gone about twenty feet lower, and afterwards

ST. MICHAEL'S CAVE. 57

found it impossible to proceed, as the passage became too
small for a man's body. I was however determined to
go on, and lighting a new torch, I ordered him to lead
the way. We descended with much difficulty, as the air
began to be quite mephitic. Our torches went out, but
happily we had left a large flambeau burning at the
entrance of the second cave, which my guide was obliged
to fetch, leaving me all the time in the dark. I began
to be much incommoded with the damp, as we were in
the most violent heat, occasioned by the hard exercise of
lowering ourselves by ropes.

I saw nothing here so curious as what we left some
hundred feet above our heads : the crystallizations were
smaller, and the water in greater abundance, dropping
from all quarters. Our guide was pressing us to return,
when I perceived a small aperture, which he wished to
prevent my seeing. I asked him why he had not shewn
it. He said that no one had ever been lower, except the
two soldiers, who two years ago, had attempted to force
themselves into this hole ; that, indeed, they had suc-
ceeded in getting in, but never found their way back.

On examining the size of the hole, I thought it suffi-
ciently large for the dimensions of my body. I thrust
my head and shoulders into it, and perceived that at the
distance of five or six feet it took a different direction,
and appeared to go perpendicularly downwards. I ascer-
tained this fact by throwing my torch into it, which
disappeared suddenly : we heard it for some seconds
falling with a hollow noise, which at last subsided, and
on looking into the hole, I perceived a very clear light at
a great distance. I was therefore determined to endeavour
to proceed a little farther, and if possible to go to the
bottom.

58 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

When we examined our rope we found that we had
•only about the sixth part of the two hundred fathoms
remaining. I fixed it round my shoulders and between
my legs, and began to let myself down : the hole grew
so small that it required much strength and resolution to
proceed. I did not lose courage, but forcing myself for-
ward I found I was, after a struggle of a few minutes, as
low as the torch, and to my great surprise at the bottom,
where no human being had ever yet been. I called to
my friend, whose voice I could distinctly hear, informing
him that I was really at the bottom, and that the air was
by no means bad but very cold. He was determined to
follow me ; I endeavoured to dissuade him, as I knew the
size of his body to be too large for the narrow parts of
the passage ; but he was positive, and got as far as the
spot I dreaded, when, forcing himself on, he remained
fixed for some time without being able to proceed up
or down ; nor could he, as he afterwards informed me,
utter a syllable. What first apprised me of our danger
was the quantity of smoke, which not finding vent above,
from the obstruction of his body, almost suffocated me
below. I made all possible haste to get back, as the
smoke increased in such a manner as almost prevented
my respiration. I now found myself in the last ex-
tremity, but was determined my courage and presence of
mind should not forsake me, and finding that my life
depended on my exertions, I struggled like a person in
the last agonies of death, and in a little time found
myself returned to the spot where I had left the guide.
My friend was quite exhausted and breathless : nor could
we speak for several minutes, and had he remained a little
time longer in the narrow passage, he and I must inevit-
ably [have] perished.

RETURN TO DAYLIGHT. 59

We found ourselves so weak that our return to the
land of the living was by no means an easy task. It was
both difEcult and fatiguing to raise and pull ourselves up
by our hands, placing our feet against the rock and
holding fast by the rope, which was now become so wet
that it required much strength to prevent its slipping
through our hands, and our faUing to the bottom.

After some hours' severe labour we had the pleasure
of once more seeing daylight, and found ourselves at
the mouth of St. Michael's Cave ; where I answered the
inquiries of my friends by fainting away, and it was some
minutes before I recovered my senses. We had been five
hours in the cave, and were it not for the ridiculous vanity
of saying that we had gone lower than any other person,
and quite to the bottom, half an hour would have shewn
us whatever was most curious and best worth our notice.
I had the rope measured, and found that I had been as
low as the level of the sea. The only benefit I reaped
from this expedition was the ample materials for mirth
and raillery it afforded my friends, who pretended that it
had been my intention to perform my journey to Jerusalem
through the bowels of the earth.

After having spent a few days more in examining
every natural and artificial curiosity of this place I
thought it prudent to proceed on my voyage. I there-
fore took leave of all my friends and acquaintance,
thanking them for the friendly and encouraging reception
they had given me.

I cannot dismiss this subject without making a few
general remarks on this spot. For, in my opinion, there
can be nothing in Europe, or in the world, that can offer
to the curious traveller so many objects to admire and
investigate as Gibralter. He might spend a whole

6o WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

month very pleasantly in examining its natural beauties
alone. And the artificial works, surpassing everything of
the kind in the world, would afford him ample materials
for study and improvement.

To appearance, indeed, Gibralter must strike the eye
as a barren rock, yet wherever it is cultivated, which is
done in some spots by collecting earth together, it yields
vegetables in great abundance. Sometimes it does not
rain here for four months, and of course everything
would be burned up were it not for the heavy dews
which fall every night. But after a few hours' rain every
cultivated spot assumes the most lively verdure. A
garden here, of about half an acre, could not, I was
assured, be cultivated at a less expense than £2°° ^ Y^^r,
and yet the tenant, notwithstanding that enormous sum,
was a considerable gainer by its produce.

Though the Rock of Gibralter is surrounded by the
sea, well water is to be found all over it, pretty good,
and fit to drink, though heavy and often brackish ; but
the rain water from the mountain, which is filtered
through the sands without the south port, is exceedingly
good and wholesome, and remains uncorrupt a long time.
It is collected into a reservoir, and from thence con-
ducted to the town. This aqueduct was first begun by
the Moors, and carried by earthen pipes : in their time
it reached the city, supplying the Atarasana^ and the
Castle : that now existing was planned by a Spanish
Jesuit, and only reaches to the grand parade. The hill
universally abounds with cavities and receptacles for rain,
which mostly centre in the Reservoir, affording an
inexhaustible stock of excellent water, greatly con-
tributing to the health of the inhabitants.

^ Spanish for Arsenal.

PARTRIDGES AND WILD BOARS. 6i

I was much surprised, in one ot my excursions, to
spring a covey of partridges of about twelve brace. I
saw nothing for them to feed on, but was informed that
they eat the seed of the Palmetto, which grows in great
abundance on every part of the Rock. I met with
numbers of them afterwards : nor was I astonished at
it, when I knew that there was a strict rule observed
forbidding any person of whatever rank or condition to
fire a shot on any account, unless at an enemy, and they
have had sufficient sport in this way to , satisfy any
reasonable people for some time.

At the southern end of the Rock, some way up,
above St. Michael's Cave, there are many wild boars,
which are sometimes seen a dozen in number. I should
willingly have paid those gentlemen a visit, had shooting
been permitted. On the Sugarloaf there are monkeys in
hundreds ; and though the soldiers often complain, when
on guard, of being pelted by them with stones, they are
not permitted to defend themselves by shooting at them.

There is very little society at Gibralter, but a perfect
harmony subsists between the Garrison and the few
inhabitants ; and with apparent wishes to promote con-
viviality, they spend their time in a very pleasant manner.
I felt so much comfort and satisfaction among them that
it was with much regret I left this celebrated Rock ; not
less endeared to me by the hospitality I experienced
there than it is known to the rest of the world for its
memorable defence.

CHAPTER III.

The Sea Voyage resumed — The Island of St. Peter — Sicily — Mount
Olympus — A Storm — Smyrna — A Tendour- — L'Avant Souper —
The Custom-House — A Caravan — A Mosque — A Turkish Bath
— A Lead-foundry — Character of Pauolo, my Servant — A Turkish
Burying - Ground — Journey to Constantinople — Magnesia- — Its
Governor — Preparations for a Battle.

November the sixth, we re-embarked on board the
London. Nothing remarkable occurred to us on the first
days of our navigation ; nor shall I attempt to describe the
various scenes and trifling occurrences which do not fail
to attract the attention of the inexperienced navigator.
It was not till the thirteenth that we discovered land,
which proved to be the island of Sardinia.

On the same morning I was very much entertained
with the appearance of a vast number of pilot fish. This
fish is known to live in perfect amity with the shark,
whose caterer he is said to be, in the same manner as the
iackal is the lion's. We endeavoured to catch some of
them with lines ; but did not succeed. We tried to strike
them with the harpoon, but being rather too small to be
killed in this manner we only got two of them after
labouring for three hours. We had them dressed for
dinner and found them eat tolerably well.

Having unfortunately stood too much to the north-
ward, we perceived that most likely we should not be
able to weather the island, which would be one hundred
miles out of our course, and to my great mortification,
our apprehensions were but too well founded.

ST. PETER'S ISLAND. 63

November the \\th.

We stood in for the south end of the island, close off
St. Peter's, the shore of which is safe and bold, and the
rocks very lofty, resembling much the northern parts of
Ireland, off the point of Bengore and along the Giant's
Causeway.

In different places of the island of St. Peter's I
observed the inhabitants employed along the shore in
burning charcoal. The weather was extremely sultry ;
but the serenity of the sky and smoothness of the waters,,
which are experienced here as much as in any other seas,
more than atone for the other inconveniences. We sat
down to dinner in good spirits, and though the fare was
none of the best, we contrived to make amends for it by
vying with each other who should most enliven the
conversation. We did not sit long at dinner, though the
conversation turned a good deal on a favourite subject,
sporting, in all its branches ; and though this subject
naturally led us to mention most of our Irish friends, yet
two bottles of port saw the end of our discourse ; and we
went on deck to admire the beauties of the setting sun,,
and there renewed our conversation till the rising moon
brought forward other pleasing and interesting sensations.

November the 1 jth.
We saw the little island of Maretimo,^ exhibiting^
nothing to the view but a rock uncommonly high above
the water ; it is of a circular form, and rather flat at top.
Having passed Maretimo, we saw two more small islands,
Fangnana and Farognana ; the former resembles Gibralter
very much in respect to the shape of the rock. They are

1 It was from this island probably that the first Lord Cloncurry's
country seat at Blackrock, co. Dublin, had its name. Thos. Whaley, as.
already mentioned in the Preface, married Lord Cloncurry's daughter.

64 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

very steep and have a most uncommon appearance from
the sea.

November iStA.

We discovered this morning, close on the shore of
Sicily, the city of Marsala, which is built on the south-
west promontory of the island. It appears from the sea
a large and beautiful town ; has several good houses, a
great many steeples, and is surrounded by a wall.

As you proceed to the southward, the island of Sicily
is very flat for many leagues along the shore ; but as you
carry your eyes into the country it rises by degrees and
terminates in lofty mountains.

A very beautiful plain extends from Marsala a great
way along the coast : at the distance of ten miles is
Mazaria,^ beautifully situated close on the sea coast. It is
fortified and the base of its walls is washed by the
waves. The intermediate country between these two
towns is most beautiful, and carries with it the richest
appearance. At small distances from each other you
discover here and there several villas most delightfully
situated. The circumjacent country has the appearance
of being very populous. The greater part of it is thickly
wooded, and the whole is interspersed with villas whose
situations are chosen with judgment and exhibit an
uncommon degree of neatness, wealth and cheerfulness.
As we sailed further along this beautiful island we were
at every moment amazed and delighted with the different
cities, towns, and villages, many miles up the country ;
all of them exhibiting handsome churches with lofty
spires. I stayed all day upon deck, admiring the beauties
of this garden of the world, when on a sudden at four in
the evening the weather changed, and threatened us with
an impending storm. As the night advanced the gale

^ Mazzara.

MOUNT ETNA IN VIEW. 65

increased in heavy squalls accompanied with thunder and
lightning, and, indeed, our night was in every respect very
uncomfortable. Before daybreak we could see Mount
Etna emitting a little fire and vast clouds of thick smoke ;
but in the morning we discerned it more perfectly, and all
went on deck to view this celebrated mountain, where
the ancient poets had placed the forge of Vulcan, whose
assistants, the Cyclops, fabricated the thunderbolts of Jove.
We could discern it at the distance of twenty-five miles,
having then the appearance of a small bonfire. On a
nearer view I could perceive its top, covered with snow
and volumes of smoke, whilst the sides, on account of the
fertility of the soil, were carefully cultivated and planted
with vineyards. The changes in the atmosphere were
more frequent during this day than we had yet known
them : foul and fair weather : light breezes, and then a
storm : thunder and lightning, and then a serene sky :
excessive heat at one time and soon after extreme cold
alternately succeed each other during the last twenty-four
hours.

Saturday, November ^znd.

After a very tedious navigation we discovered the
Morea and passed Cape Matapan in the evening. The
coast of this peninsula, all along as far as the island of
Cerigo, has the appearance of being very barren and quite
uncultivated. The surface of the coast is very high and
uneven, the shore bold and steep. We saw no houses or
animals of any kind till we had nearly passed the island of
Cerigo, formerly Cythera and known for its temple dedi-
cated to Venus, when we discovered the small village of
that name. It has a very mean appearance, and the
country a worse. No verdure or cultivation of any kind,
and the land looks as if it produced nothing but stones.

06 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

While we were passing the once celebrated land of
Peloponnesus, we were naturally led to consider and con-
verse on its ancient grandeur, and could not, without
inexpressible regret, reflect on the melancholy revolution
which time and despotism have here effected ; that a
country once the seat of the fine arts, the nurse of
literature, and famed for her progress in science not less
than she was for the celebrated system of iurisprudence of
the renowned Spartan law-giver, should now exhibit the
most rude, barren prospect that can be conceived, where
poverty and ignorance have succeeded to opulence and
improvement ; where the noble, generous, arduous, and
exalted spirit for which the Spartan youth were famed,
and which led them to vie with each other in emulating
every act of heroism, magnanimity, and virtue, is now
totally extinct ; and we behold their posterity sunk to
the lowest pitch of human degradation, mean, cruel,
cowardly, ignorant, dishonest, and embracing contentedly
the fetters of slavery, to which their ancestors would so
much rather have preferred death !

November the lya.
In the evening we discovered Mount Olympus to the
northward. I had seen it in the morning but took it
then for clouds, which it very much resembled at a
distance. Its being always covered with snow accounted
for the extreme cold we had lately felt, and the northerly
wind blowing strongly over its top was a sufficient cause
for the sudden change of climate. I cannot see why the
ancient poets have placed on it the residence of the gods,
and made it the seat of Jupiter, as they certainly allotted
to him a residence which they would have found very
uncomfortable.

A STORM. 67

As the evening advanced, the weather began to wear
a very threatening aspect. We spied at a distance a
French merchant ship of the size of the London furling
her sails, as about to lie to for the night. I was much
pleased to find that the captain thought it advisable to
hail her. He allowed the French to be better acquainted
with these seas, as they frequent them more than we do.
He always made it a rule to profit by the experience of
the natives of those countries that he visited ; particularly
in what regarded the weather ; as it stands to reason that
people who have been long accustomed to its continual
vicissitudes, will earlier foresee and judge more correctly
of any change that is about to take place. I perfectly
coincided with him, and his modesty increased the good
opinion I had of his skill and prudence. We soon came
up with the Frenchman : she was from Marseilles, and
bound, as ourselves, to Smyrna. Her captain told us that
[the] face of the sky portended a storm, and advised us
on no account to venture among the islands, but to follow
his example and lay to for the night.

Scarcely had we time to follow his advice before it
began to thunder and lighten. I observed that the
lightning took a horizontal direction, about a fathom
above the surface of the sea, and that two flashes of the
silver forked lightning always went together, which we
were informed to be the sure forerunner of a storm in
these seas. The remainder of the night fully justified
the Frenchman's fears and convinced us how right our
captain was in following his advice.

The wind was moderate till nine, when it began to
blow a true hurricane, accompanied with the most
dreadful thunder and lightning. The darkness of the
night increased the terror of the storm. The rain poured

68 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

down in such torrents as rendered it impossible for the
men to keep their feet on deck. The storm had con-
tinued raging for several hours, and threatened to grow
worse before any change for the better could be hoped
for. At two in the morning we carried away our mizzen-
stay-sail ; every sea running over our decks, the boats
were in danger of being staved : the binnacle was
dashed to pieces : every movable on deck was washed
away, and with difficulty the compasses were saved.

It is impossible for anyone to figure to himself the
distress of our situation. We were obliged to let the
ship drift at the mercy of the waves. She made much
water, and her seams, by her labouring, were opening
everywhere. The water poured even into the bed-places :
all was confusion and a dismal scene of distress.

My Jerusalem friends often occupied my thoughts ;
and had I gone to the bottom, I am certain that I would
in my last moments have regretted not having been per-
mitted by providence to perform my journey, and to win
the bets which these gentlemen were confident they had
laid with so great odds in their favour.

The rain stopped at a little after five, and the wind
by degrees became more moderate : we began then to
cheer ourselves with the hopes of fine weather. We had
not drifted so much in the night as we imagined : but
found, to our very great sorrow, that our good friend the
Frenchman had disappeared. Where she went, God
only knows ! I really felt very much distressed on her
account ; and as [we] were certain that she could not have
made sail during the night, we could only dread the
worst.

" Haud ignarus mali, miscris succurrere disco."

IN VIEW OF CRETE. 69

Monday, November the i\th.

I have often heard that " after a storm comes a
calm " ; and I was glad then to find even a probability of
it. Insensibly the wind died away and the weather
promised fair. The captain assured us at breakfast that
during the whole course of twenty years' experience, he
never had witnessed a more dangerous night than the
last : and contrary to the usual custom of sailors, who
only pray as long as the danger lasts, he returned thanks
to providence for our escape, and for not having ventured
among the islands where we must have inevitably
perished.

The next day we were nearly abreast of the island of
Candia, ancient Crete, the largest island of the Archi-
pelago, subject to the Grand Signior, formerly so renowned
for the government and laws of Minos, now only remark-
able for its poverty and the wretchedness, ignorance, and
barbarity of its inhabitants.

The calm continued almost uninterruptedly for several
days, and though we were sorry not to move more
expeditiously towards the end of our voyage, yet we
could but enjoy the fineness of the weather : for two
days we were very near Candia, the mountains of which
are very high. At length we passed it, and entering the
Aegean Sea we found ourselves in the midst of the
Cyclades.

The sailing was here truly delightful, and every object
interesting. We passed most of our time on deck. The
water was smooth as a continued sheet of glass, so that
we were scarcely sensible of its undulation, while the
moderate heat of the sun and the happy temperature of
the air rendered the climate grateful in the highest
degree.

70 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

This day we passed the islands of Melos, Paros,
Narcos/ and Delos, and Andros ; and thought we could
discover on Delos the remains of the temples of Apollo
and Diana which are still to be seen there.

In the narrow passage which separates Andros from
the peninsula of the Negropont, on which Athens stood,"
we were a whole day becalmed, and regretted indeed not
having it in our power to visit the ruins of that renowned
city : but we knew too well the danger of our landing
without permission or janissaries to protect us.

November the 2%th.

We this day ran along the island of Chios, or Scio,
celebrated for its fertility, and at the present day far
excelling every other island of the Archipelago, as well
in the beauty of the country as the industry of its
inhabitants. The neighbouring islands draw from it the
corn necessary for their support ; and large quantities are
also annually exported for the Constantinople and Smyrna
markets : they likewise carry on a considerable trade in
silks and wines.

Our spirits were considerably elevated by the in-
formation we here received from our captain, that [we]
were now distant from Smyrna not more than twenty
leagues, which he expected to run by the next day.
The night was very still and on the morning of the
29th we were abreast of Cape Colaburno,' which
forms one point of the Gulf of Smyrna ; and here we
had the mortification to lie the whole day becalmed,

^ ? Naxos.

' Whaley here seems to have confounded the island of Negropont, or
Eubcea, with the mainland.
^ ? Kara Burnu,

SMYRNA. 71

and on the 30th, made the Isles des Anglois in the
Gulf of Smyrna.

We this morning passed the Orlac 1 Islands, and
assisted by a light breeze we soon were off the castle of
Smyrna, where we saluted the Turkish flag, which has not
here any means of enforcing respect, as the castle is literally
a ruin and mounts only two or three pieces of old ordnance.
Proceeding to make sail for the town, we discovered an
English frigate, the Ambuscade, which we also saluted
with five guns, and received the compliment in return.
It fell calm at twelve in sight of the town. We received a
visit from one of the officers of the Ambuscade, Mr. S — *,
who came on board to inquire the news from England. He
informed us that they spoke of the plague at Smyrna, and
that some people had already died of it. I must confess
that my courage failed me at the very sound of the word
plague, and I found myself rather alarmed ; but I learned
afterwards that the death of two or three persons in one
day was thought of no consequence at Smyrna.

In the evening we saluted the town and received the
bienvenue from above fifty ships of different nations, by
each of them firing a salute on our arrival. We were
also favoured with visits from different gentlemen of the
town ; among them were the Messrs. L — s,^ from whom
we received the most cordial reception : we accompanied
them on shore, and had the pleasure of being most agree-
ably surprised by finding at their house a most amiable
mother,* with four still more amiable daughters, to whom
they introduced us with all the ease and unreserved
familiarity of old and sincere friends. I was, without

1 ? Oglak. * Ralph Sneyd, then a midshipman of this ship.

' Lee, as the writer mentions later. See p. 157.

* Mrs. Maltass, a cousin of Mr. Lee. — Moore's Journal.

72 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

further ceremonies, to seat myself at the tendour, next to
Mademoiselle Margotten, who with all the naivete in the
world began to explain to me the use and advantages of
this piece of household furniture, [of] which she well
perceived I had never seen the like before.

In Turkey none of the rooms have fire-places. The
tendour is used in their stead. It is a square table with
several quilted coverings spread over it which reach down to
the ground. Underneath the table is a large copper in which
[charcoal ?] or embers are placed ; the knees of each person
round the table are covered with the quilted counterpane,
and the head confined under the tendour, renders this
place the most comfortable and of course the most frequented
spot in the apartment. Round this, little parties are
always assembled, either to read, work or for other
amusements. In cold weather the hands are warmed
under the coverlids, and sympathy sometimes brings them
into contact with those of your fair neighbour. Of the
society in this family I cannot say too much ; and we
afterwards experienced much pleasure with many advan-
tages from this acquaintance. Mrs. M — ,i aunt to our
hosts, the two Mr. L — s,'' was a most amiable, cheerful
woman, and passionately fond of her four most amiable
daughters. Never did exist a family more united, and I
may say, more deservedly happy. The girls, beautiful
and accomplished, were all that the prudent mother could
wish them ; they repaid with every grace the pains taken
by their parent in their education. These fair sisters
were the first Smyrneottes we had seen, and from their
beauty we formed a most favourable opinion of the
charms of their countrywomen. Affable and unaffected
in their manners as in their conversation, they heard

1 Mrs. Maltass. ' Lee, as the writer mentions later. Seep. 157.

L'AVANT SOUPER. 73

with a wish to learn, and always answered with much
sense and politeness, divested of all constraint, with a
certain vivacity which was really fascinating. At six
o'clock tea was served a PAngloise, and after it was over
the ladies requested us to accompany them to what is
called at Smyrna the Avant Souper, where we went on
foot, attended by servants with lanterns. This society is
supported among the Christian famihes of the city, and is
held at the house of each person every night alternately.
It was held this evening at the house of a member of
the British factory, where we met Mr. — ^ our Consul,
and all the principal persons of the town. The scene
was novel and interesting, and the various habits made
the rooms appear as if they were open for a masquerade,
and having hunted me successfully at a Pharao^ \_sic\ bank
held by two Greeks, at eleven o'clock I accompanied our
party home and immediately returned to our ship for this
night, having left our trunks and other necessaries still on
board.

December the 2nd.
We employed this morning in preparing our dis-
patches for Europe ; as we were informed that a mail
for Marseilles was to be dispatched this day. After we
had written our letters we returned from on board, and
on our landing we were told that it was absolutely
necessary for us to go to the custom-house in order to get
our trunks. The Customs of this great city were farmed
by a proud Turk, who did not understand our not appear-
ing ourselves : therefore, informed of this gentleman's
way of thinking, and his great attachment to a small
fee, I put a spyglass in my pocket and, accompanied
by Mr. L — and his dragoman, we proceeded to the

' Mr. Anthony Hayes. See p. 75. ' I.e., faro.

74 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

custom-house, where we found this long-bearded Fermier-
general already waiting for us ; and were informed that
he meant to receive us in state.

Having been shewn into his presence-chamber, we
found him seated on the ground : he did not favour us
with a look, but ordered us to be seated and pipes to be
given. I had not been long enough in Turkey to have
adopted the custom of smoking ; yet I was informed by
Mr. L — that it would be deemed highly uncivil if I did
not at least affect to smoke. I was therefore compelled
to put a pipe to my lips, and having sat a quarter of an
hour without one syllable being uttered, though there
were more than twenty people in the room, sweetmeats
were served and afterwards a little coffee without sugar.
The refreshments over, this Head of the Customs at length
broke silence, and inquired if we had anything in our
trunks besides wearing apparel. Being informed that
we had not, he immediately gave orders that our luggage
should be carried off unopened. I presented him after-
wards with my spy-glass, which he did me the honour
of accepting without looking at it, or even thanking me
for it.

I was struck, tor the moment, with such uncivil
manners, but on becoming more acquainted with the
genius of the Turks, I found this to proceed not from ill
breeding but pride. They do not wish you to suppose
that anything so trifling could raise a smile on their
countenance, or afford them the least satisfaction.
Besides, a Turk, when he receives a present from a
Christian, imagines that he confers the obligation, and
would not have you suppose it possible you could oblige
him, were you to present him with half your fortune.
However, having no wish to induce my custom-house

THE DANGERS OF SYRIA. ts

friend, by so high a compliment, to change his opinion ;
[I] gave him leave to pocket my spy-glass, with whatever
ideas he pleased. I wished to be gone, and desiring the
dragoman to pay him, on my part, as many compliments
as he thought proper, I took my leave and returned to
Mrs. L — 's.

In the evening we had the honour of receiving visits
from the most respectable gentlemen in the town, among
whom was Mr. Hays,^ the British Consul. After tea, we
again had the pleasure of accompanying the family to
the Avant Souper, which was held at the house of a
Dutch gentleman.^

We met nearly the same company as the preceding
evening, and had the good fortune of being introduced to
a gentleman who had travelled much in Syria. I am
indebted to him for no little information, respecting
the different modes of travelling ; as also the necessary
measures to be taken to prevent frequent impositions and
to escape the attacks of the Arabs. He informed me
that I ought not by any means to wear the European
dress ; that wherever I passed I should be very circum-
spect in my behaviour ; appear to possess as few valuables
as possible ; that I should travel with a small guard in
preference to a great escort ; join no caravans, as they
were frequently in league with those wandering tribes of
Arabs whose only pursuit is plunder and robbery : that I
should proceed with few attendants, as Httle baggage a&
possible ; but by all means that I should be well armed.

This gentleman advised us likewise, that in case we

were stopped by the Arabs, we should not appear in the

least dismayed, but peremptorily refuse giving up any

part of our property ; however, that we should at all

• Anthony Hayes. * Le Conte de Hauchpied. — Moore's Journal.

76 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

events be prepared with a purse containing some money,
Tvhich we should give them with the worst grace
possible, in case they threatened to ill treat us ; as it is
much more prudent to pacify than fight them ; informing
them at the same time that sooner than be stopped a
second time, by any of their fellow freebooters, we were
determined to risk our lives in our defence.

I treasured up the advice of this well-informed and
good-natured gentleman, fully determined to profit by it
when circumstances should render its application useful.

December the yd.

We went to see a caravan that had arrived the
preceding evening. It was composed of two hundred
and fifty camels, with one hundred leaders and fifty
soldiers to defend them. When on their march, two of
the soldiers are at half a mile's distance, forming an
avant garde, in order to reconnoiter. The others are in
the centre, assembled under one banner, always ready to
repel the attacks of the wandering Arabs, whose chief
object is to disperse the caravan, that they may plunder
it with the greater facility for they are very averse to
■come to desperate measures, unless some of their Arabs
are previously wounded. The caravans that proceed to
Mecca and have a general rendezvous are not so numerous
as the others.

Nothing can be more interesting and curious than the
manner of loading the camels, who regularly obey the
whistle of their masters. At the first whistle they bend
the first joint of their fore-feet and rest on the second ; if
this posture be too elevated, the leader whistles a second
time and the animal squats as low as possible. On the
third call it rises and proceeds on its journey. Nothing

A MOSQUE. IT

can exceed the docility and patience of these animals.
Though they take very large strides they proceed but
slowly, and do not perform a greater journey in one day
than a man at an ordinary pace can accomplish. They
travel about thirty miles in thirteen hours, sleep but
very little, tremble at the shaking of a leaf, and are
stopped by the smallest impediment. Their moderation
in eating and drinking is greater than that of any other-
known animal. They are sometimes four days without
drinking and their food consists of some dry or burnt
leaves : sometimes they give them a ball of paste, which
they swallow and afterwards chew for the whole day.
They proceed without a bridle or collar, and obey the
voice of their leader. If you add to all their qualities the-
advantage that is derived from camels-hair, of which
those stuffs known by the name of camlets are manu-
factured, it may be easily supposed that these animals are
in the greatest request. On our return we rambled about
for more than two hours, till we completely lost our way,
and it was not possible for us to get any information from
those we met by any signs we could make, as we were
not attended by a guide ; Smyrna being one of the few
towns in Turkey where foreigners are allowed to go out
without janissaries. In this dilemma we walked from
one street to another, till at length we found ourselves
before a very magnificent building, which appeared to us.
to be the banqueting-room of some rich jolly Turk.

Perceiving the door of the portico open, we attempted
to enter it. We had not proceeded far when on a sudden
we were stopped by a Turk who appeared very angry : he
made many gestures to shew us his displeasure ; and
[had] his long harangue been intelligible to us, we should,,
no doubt have found it replete with abuse.

78 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

We were submissively taking our departure when
another Turk of apparently superior consequence to him
who had roughly addressed us, approached, and after
speaking to him, made signs to us to follow him into the
building. As soon as we entered the first door our
conductor took off his slippers, and made a sign to us to
imitate his example ; this we immediately complied with,
and on opening the second door we found ourselves, to
our great surprise, in a Mosque.

The Turks on entering departed from us, and left us
to make our own remarks ; and we soon perceived that
they had withdrawn for the purpose of devotion ; as we
saw them on their knees, as well as many other Turks in
different parts of the building bowing frequently to the
ground and apparently worshipping with the most fixed
attention and ardent devotion. All was silence, and
everything to us solemn as it was novel. We stood for a
considerable time here looking at the building and
examining the walls, which were divided in compart-
ments, and adorned with texts from the Koran and
different articles of their faith in gold characters, which
seemed clumsily executed. During this period not one
Turk out of twenty that were there even lifted up his
eyes to regard us, so intent were they on their devotion,
which they perform with a degree of propriety and
respectful solemnity that we rarely see observed by the
more enlightened congregations of European churches.

Having now satisfied our curiosity we thought it
prudent to withdraw, and having resumed our shoes at
the door, we soon gained the street, where we fortunately
met a Greek who understood Italian and directed us in
our way home, where, after having related our adventures,
we were felicitated on our narrow escape, as they termed

A TURKISH BATH. 79

it, in not having been most grossly insulted or in not
having met with even worse than insults, as has happened
more than once to Christians. If we had proceeded by
ourselves as far as into the Mosque with our shoes on,
which, had we not been met, we should certainly have
done, there is no doubt but that our indiscretion would
have been attended with the most serious consequences.

The next place where curiosity led us was a Turkish
Bath, and we examined very minutely the process in
using this principal article of luxury among the oriental
nations.

You first enter a large vaulted apartment, very lofty
and of an octagonal form. In the centre is an immense
bath of four feet in depth. On our entrance there
were about twenty Turks in it, sitting and squatting
in the bottom of this bason ; nor did they appear to
take the smallest notice of us, tho' we were paying
particular attention to them, and were asking numberless
questions. The sides of this bath were of marble, and
round it is a kind of gallery which serves as a place of
exercise to those who have done bathing and who walk
several times round it. In the walls of this apartment
are several niches, each large enough to contain two
persons : these are always occupied by those who are just
come out of the water for the purpose of being rubbed
with a kind of coarse, hard cloth, which has a much greater
effect than a flesh brush. The steam that arises from the
bason in the centre, which is kept moderately heated,
makes the room warm enough to permit those in the
niches to remain there as long as they think proper
without running any risk of catching cold.

There were not less than fifty naked people in the
different parts of this chamber, who appeared not at all

8o WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

discomposed at our presence, but preserved all their
characteristic gravity. Some had been rubbed with the
hand, others with the cloth, and some remained still
sitting in the bath.

After they have amused themselves here as long as
they like, they repair to an inner apartment of about half
the size of the former, where the heat is considerably
increased. There are large flat stones on which they seat
themselves, and seconded by the intense heat of the
vapour which issues from every part of the room, the
perspiration soon begins; which, after it has continued for
some time, the patient (for though the Turk undergoes
this ceremony for pleasure, I cannot help giving him this
appellation) is shown into another chamber where the
heat is still more violent. Here he can go no further,
nor could anything but custom and habit from his infancy
enable him to go thus far ; for the heat of this place
was so intense that I found much difficulty in respiration,
though I did not remain in it many seconds.

Notwithstanding the excessive heat of the apartment,
a Turk will amuse himself by sitting here for an hour at
a time, till every pore is open. He then calls in his
slaves, who alternately rub him with their hands and pull
his joints till he thinks them sufficiently supple ; when,
after perfuming his beard with the most costly essences,
he retires into his haram to finish the day * * * »

Having paid three piastres, the price ot my curiosity,
I quitted the Bath and proceeded with my friends to visit
the manufactories.

We first visited the Lead-foundry, where they make
shot and cast bullets : of the latter there were several tons
ready to be sent to the Vizier's Camp. There are about
two hundred persons employed in this foundry : but the

LEAVING SMYRNA. 8i

clumsiness of their implements, their ignorance of the
mechanic powers, a knowledge of which would so much
facilitate their operations, and, above all, their bigoted
attachment to their primitive usages, which precludes
every possibility of improvement, declare them in this,
as in other arts, centuries behind European nations.

I observed to my conductors how much I was sur-
prised at seeing the tail of the bullets left just as they
came from the mould. I was informed that the Turks
preferred this mode, from a supposition that the wound
made by a ball in this state would be the more difficult
to cure, and consequently more destructive, never con-
sidering that it would impede the velocity of the ball
and render its range so uncertain as to prevent the best
marksman from hitting his object.

Having seen enough of this despicable manufactory,
and finding the hour of dinner at hand, we proceeded
homewards and on our way stopt for a few minutes at a
great carpet manufactory, for which this city is famous.
We were shewn a great variety of carpets, some of which
were very beautiful. The colours were lively and the
designs executed with a great deal of taste.

My time now becoming precious, I found it necessary
to proceed on my journey ; and therefore determined to
set out immediately by land for Constantinople. I sent
for Captain M — ^ of the London, who agreed to wait three
weeks or a month for my return, when he was to land
me at St. Jean de Acre, or the Port of Jaffa, on the coast
of Syria, and likewise to touch at the island of Cyprus on
his way. This business being arranged, I applied to my
friend Mr. L — ^ to assist us in procuring a guard of
janissaries, as well as a guide and mules. This worthy

1 Capt. Neil, as mentioned in Moore's Journal. ' Lee.

c

82 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

gentleman, on my first mentioning our intention of going
to Constantinople by land, remonstrated with me against
it, on account of the season, and more particularly on
account of the war : dreading that we should meet with
parties of the victorious Turks, returning from the
camp, who are always insolent, and frequently rob and
murder travellers. He used many other arguments to
dissuade me from this arduous undertaking, but finding
me determined, he acquiesced with reluctance, and
promised to afford us every assistance in his power.

December the i^th.
I completed, to my very great satisfaction, one
principal piece of business respecting my journey. I
hired a servant, a guide and interpreter, a companion
and a guard : and all these essential qualities I found
centred in one man. He was an Armenian, and well
versed in the modes of travelling in Turkey : he spoke
all languages ; had travelled over most of the globe ;
and had a very good character from many respectable
gentlemen of Smyrna. This fellow proved afterwards
of the greatest service to me ; and I really think that
without him we should never have arrived at Con-
stantinople. He had already been there twice by land,
and assured me that there was no other danger to be
apprehended than that resulting from extreme fatigue.
He recommended plenty of ammunition and to provide
ourselves with guns, pistols and carabines. I already
liked my Armenian, and he on his side swore by the
holy Sepulchre that he would with much pleasure lose
his life to serve me. He began to relate his wars with
the Arabs on his way to Jerusalem, where he had like-
wise been, and assured me that he had shot many of

BOURNABAT. 83

those wandering plunderers. Whether the fellow was
lying or telling the truth, I considered not ; he suc-
ceeded in amusing me a good deal, which I found was
his intention.

Captain W — ^ who had accompanied me from London,
and who had been confined for some days by a rheumatic
complaint, not thinking it prudent to encounter the
difHculties and fatigues to which we were likely to be
exposed, decided on staying here until he should be re-
established. This, of course, lessened our party ; but
Captain M — '' and I persisted in our intention, and now
all our arrangements being made, we took our leave of
the amiable and friendly family from whom we had
received so much kindness, and at four o'clock in the
evening we set out on our journey.

Mr. L — the younger, and Mr. M— ', brother to the
young ladies I have before mentioned as members of
Mr. L — 's* family, insisted on accompanying us part of
the way to Bournat-Bat,' five miles and an half from
Smyrna, where we intended to pass the night. Captain
M — and I were mounted on very good horses, which
our friends had procured for us for our whole journey.
Our party consisted of seven persons, one of them a
janissary, who served us as guide, the rest servants and a
black slave, to drive our mules that carried our beds,
baggage, etc.

Never in my life was I more charmed with an evening
ride ! The country had the appearance of richness. We
saw some cotton plantations and a variety of shrubs, the
spontaneous productions of the soil ; and the month of
the year, though December, bore all the appearance ot

1 Wilson. ' Captain Moore. ^ Maltass.

' Lee. ' Bournabat.

84 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

the finest evening in June. The air was warm, the sky-
serene ; the birds were singing on every bush ; the spring
had already commenced, and vegetables of various kinds
were growing spontaneously on each side of the road.
What most particularly engrossed my attention were the
hedges of myrtle which form the most common fence
to the gardens about Smyrna, and are here and there
interspersed with the wild geranium, in full bloom.
These hedges diffused the most fragrant as well as the
most refreshing odours. The most common trees, in the
neighbourhood of Smyrna, I observed to be the orange
and lemon and a variety of evergreens.

We arrived at the little village just as silent night was
about to draw her sable mantle over the earth.

I had almost forgotten the Fountain of Diana, which
is on the road to Bournat-Bat. Indeed were it not for
the fineness of the spring, which is in this country a great
acquisition, and the name of the chaste goddess with
which tradition has honoured it, it would little merit
attention. The remains of an arch, apparently a very
ancient structure, by which it was covered, are still visible ;
and some slabs of marble are placed beside the spring
in form of an oblong square, on which the story says
that [the] goddess and her nymphs were wont to per-
form their ablutions. This part of the fable, I believe,
induced us to examine the well with more attention than
we should have otherwise done ; and however impious it
might be, we could not suppress a wish that the goddess
and her nymphs had been there, hoping that we should
be thought at least as worthy of their divine favour as
Messrs. Pan, Orion, and Endymion, with all of whom the
chastity of the goddess has been impeached, notwith-
standing her most singular petition to Jove to grant her

JOURNEY TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 85

that, which to deprive others of, he had assumed so many-
forms, under all of which he was equally successful.
Oh happy ye, when a Cuckoo, a Bull or a Swan (how
different from our times !) had equal influence over the
female mind with a shower of gold !

Bournat-Bat, situated at the opposite [side] of the Bay
of Smyrna, is a very neat village, and can boast of having
the best house in all Asia for the reception of travellers.
It is kept by an Italian woman, who keeps a billiard
table. This house is properly speaking the Vauxhall of
Smyrna, and a place of meeting for amusement and
recreation for all the captains of the trading vessels in
the Bay. The lady did us the honour of presiding at
table, and as she had no doubt premeditated a long bill,
she also entertained us with long stories, by way of
passing the time more pleasantly.

Her claret however was excellent, nor did she wish
that we should spare it. We had tolerably good beds,
which is a very great rarity in Turkey ; and this is
perhaps the only place where anything better than the
bare boards could be procured.

During all my travels in Asia I thought myself happy
when I could get some clean uncut straw on which I
might spread my blankets. I mention uncut straw
because the Turks, feeding their horses and cattle princi-
pally on it, cut the straw very small, immediately after
the corn is threshed, and put it into large hair bags in
which they send it to the market. They never litter
their horses, but make them lie on the boards, and we
were frequently compelled to do the same. We rose
early on the following day and took our leave of our
good landlady, who made us pay thirty-six dollars, being
equal to five pounds eight shilUngs sterhng, for her

86 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

friendly and comfortable accommodations. Our escort
consisted of nine mules, three of which carried our
provisions for the journey, as we had nothing to expect
on the road, and having to travel nearly three hundred
miles on the same animals, it was necessary to spare them
as much as possible, which would of course render our
progress slow. The sun was just rising as we ascended the
mountain called Yachaku,^ which commands the town
and Bay of Smyrna. I do not remember ever having
seen so beautiful a landscape : nor can I suppose that
there is in the universe a richer or grander prospect than
presented itself to our view from this mountain. The
variety of flowering shrubs, particularly the arbutus, now
quite covered with berries, growing in vast quantities on
the sides of the mountain ; the flocks and herds grazing
in the valleys ; the noble appearance of the town ; the
extensive Bay and shipping of every nation, formed
altogether the most beautiful coup d 'ceil in the world, and
with the splendour of the morning inspired us with
sensations the most pleasing.

I could not help observing to my friend how surprised
I was that more of our countrymen did not direct their
travels to this delightful country ; for I will venture to
assert that no part of the globe is better worth their
attention, or would more amply repay their trouble and
expense than the country from Smyrna to the old and
magnificent town of Magnesia, once the capital of the
Ottoman Empire, which, as well as its environs, still
retains so much grandeur.

Having spent half an hour on this mountain, almost
lost in admiration, we set off by the advice of my
faithful Pauolo, full gallop to come up with our baggage

' Probably Yakakiot, a mountain N. of Bay of Smyrna.

A CARAVAN. 87

and janissaries, who had gone on before us. We soon
overtook them at the entrance of a wood, which consisted
chiefly of forest trees, such as oak, elm, and pine ; all,
however, of inferior growth, and intermixed with the fig,
olive, and almond : there was also a vast quantity of
dwarf holly, which formed a very thick underwood.
The arbutus and the oleander were likewise frequentc

We now heard, for the first time, the drowsy noise of
a caravan, which we soon overtook. It consisted of
about thirty camels, all heavily laden. They formed a
long string, and were fastened to one another by a
ring which passed through the nostrils of each, and
was tied to the tail of the foremost. Their pace was
about the same as that of one of our heaviest waggons
in England, but they have the advantage of performing
much longer journeys, as they seldom stop to feed.
This novel sight for some time engrossed our attention ;
but in the course of a few days we were habituated
to it, and it soon lost its power of pleasing from the
frequent repetition and the tedious sameness of the object.

The country around seemed in a state of nature ; yet
displayed an uniform appearance of richness and fertility.
We perceived but few cottages, and these were only
the temporary abodes of shepherds, where the ragged
ensigns of poverty were displayed, and the appearance
of the inhabitants bespoke their wretchedness, as much
as the neglected state of so fine a country indicated
the badness of the government to which it was subject.
From the hills we perceived many villages in a plain to
our right, and saw the ruins of one that had been
destroyed not long before by a minister of the Porte, the
inhabitants having refused, most likely from inability, to
furnish a large sum of money which this avaricious and

88 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

cruel tyrant had demanded. The name of this dismantled
village is Palamont : it had been inhabited by about five
hundred families, who were all put to the sword without
distinction of age or sex. Thus do these devoted people
frequently fall victims to the rapacity and relentless
cruelty of barbarous and despotic tyrants, who under the
mask of duty to their sovereign veil the most atrocious
acts of cruelty and oppression.

After three hours' ride at the rate ot about four miles
an hour we arrived at a coffee-house, where our guide,
Pauolo, advised us to stop in order to refresh ourselves and
our mules. You meet very frequently with these houses
in Turkey ; and here the traveller may stop if he chooses,
and be accommodated with coffee without sugar and a
pipe. We entered a little cottage not unlike an Irish
barn. It was built of mud and straw, and not more
remarkable for its furniture within than its architecture
without. The only moveables in the house [were] a
couple of mats, on which we spread our repast ; and
though we were surrounded by Turks, who were enjoying
their pipes, we made an excellent meal on cold partridge
which our good friend at Smyrna had packed up for us,
with a liberal allowance of Madeira wine to last for our
journey.

The first object that engaged my attention, after
leaving our hotel, was a Burying-ground. It was
surrounded, as all these places are, with lofty cypresses.
I was much surprised at the sight of such an immense
number of graves, most of them recently dug : but I soon
recollected that I was travelling through a country where
the plague seldom intermits for any length of time : and
upon inquiring I found that above one thousand of these
graves had been made about four months back, when the

A TURKISH BURYING-GROUND. 89

plague raged at Smyrna, and in its vicinity. These
considerations for some time damped our spirits, and
inspired us with gloomy and dismal ideas. Over each of
these graves is a stone of about four feet in height, set
upright and a turban carved on the top. They are
painted in different colours, as red, white and green.
Those who are honoured with the latter have their origin
from Mahomet and call themselves his descendants.
They are looked upon as of the same family and no
others are permitted to have the green turban on their
tombs after their decease.

We travelled for the remainder of the day over a fine
country, the soil of which shewed everywhere marks or
richness and fertility. The road, if we may give it that
name, was very bad, and indeed not passable for carriages;
but we saw no obstacles to impede the equestrian
traveller, as the grounds were without enclosures. The
greatest part of the country was planted with cotton trees,
and those plantations were remarkably well cultivated and
cleared of weeds, the cotton plants being set at equal
distances of about three feet.

Towards evening we arrived at the summit of a very
lofty mountain, from whence we discovered the extensive
plain of Magnesia and could trace with the eye the
winding course of the celebrated Meander.^ The town

1 It is clear that Whaley has here confounded the two towns o^
Magnesia. The route he travelled obviously lay through Magnesia ad
Sipylum, then an important commercial centre, situate about forty miles
N.E. of Smyrna. The other city of the same name, Magnesia ad
Mseandrum, had at the time been a ruin for many centuries. It stood
some sixty miles S. by E. of Smyrna. The river he saw must have been
the Hermus, which was the scene of the defeat of Antiochus mentioned
at p. 93, and not the Mseander, which is, roughly, about one hundred
miles away.

90 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

itself is at the distance of about six miles. We intended
stopping at Magnesia for the night, and therefore made
as much haste as we possibly could in order to have
suiRcient time to see the town.

On our arrival we found much difficulty in getting a
lodging for the night. My faithful Pauolo at length
obtained permission for us to lie under the gateway of a
large court where the caravans put up. There was a
little room without windows, which did not hold out to
us the most pleasing prospect of the rest of our en-
tertainment for the night. We had our beds spread on the
ground, and sending Pauolo to buy us some provisions, we
went, accompanied by a janissary to stroll about the town.

We did not perceive any vestige or monument of
Magnesia having been once the seat of the Ottoman
Court. The houses are ill built and mostly of wood ; the
streets narrow and dirty. This had been the seat of the
Eastern Empire, till, on the 19th of May 1453, Mahomet
the second took Constantinople from Constantine Paleo-
logus, and removed his Court to that celebrated city.
Magnesia contains above one hundred thousand inhabi-
tants, and next to Smyrna is the town of most trade in
Turkey ; being situated in one of the richest and most
extensive plains in the universe. It has been distinguished
for the fertility of its soil, and it is now one of the chief
sources of supply to the cotton market of Smyrna.

This district, even in the time of Themistocles, four
hundred and fifty years before the Christian era, was
bestowed on him, on account of its fertility, by Artaxerxes
Longimanus, King of Asia. And that noble Athenian chose
this spot for his residence, when dismissed by Artaxerxes
from his Court at Susa, whither he had fled to seek an
asylum from the persecutions of the Greeks [sic] and Lace-

THE GOVERNOR OF MAGNESIA. 91

demonians. Cornelius Nepos informs us that the revenues
of this district then amounted to fifty talents (;^i 1,250),
and at the same time makes mention of the other districts
which Themistocles held through the liberality of the
Persian monarch. That illustrious general resided here
many years, and on being solicited by his benefactor
Artaxerxes to march an army against the Athenians he
here swallowed poison, to avoid at once the imputation
of ingratitude and the odium he must have incurred by
fighting against his country. The Magnesians erected a
magnificent monument to his memory in the great square
in this city, which existed in the time of Plutarch ; but
neither square or monument is now visible.

The Governor of this great and profitable district is a
most extraordinary man. Though a Turk, he is possessed
of talents much superior to those of his countrymen in
general, and has extended his knowledge beyond the
limits of the very small circle to which theirs is generally
confined. He has raised himself by his abilities into some
degree of credit with the Porte, and obtained the con-
fidence of the Grand Signior.^ The information he had
acquired respecting the commerce of this country induced
him to fix on this spot as an eligible situation in which
to establish himself He first made a calculation of its
produce, considering at the same time the failure of the
crops, to which all countries, but some parts of Turkey
in particular, are more or less subject. He afterwards
made his agreement with the Porte on the subject of the
tribute he was to pay. He succeeded in it with such
surprising accuracy and managed this important matter
with so much address that he has constantly been able to
gratify the most unreasonable demands of the Ottoman

' Abdul Hamet. Moore's Journal.

92 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

Ministry. He judiciously foresaw that his success and
elevation would soon be followed by the loss of the
favour of the suspicious Sultan, and wisely anticipated the
exorbitant increase of tribute which his enemies would
require when they saw him deprived of the countenance
of his Sovereign. This in reality happened a few years
afterwards : his imposts were at once more than doubled
and successive augmentations having taken place, he now
pays one hundred thousand pounds sterling per year,
which is more than double the sum that the whole
produce of his district was ever supposed to be worth.
This he has been enabled to do by gradually improving
the cultivation of his lands and introducing an economy
in farming hitherto unknown, and by which he is said to
have realised an immense fortune.

This wonderful man is the friend of the peasant and
adored by his dependants. The regular remittances of a
sum which so far exceeds the expectation of the Porte,
is said to be the thread on which the head of this
enlightened Turk now depends, and should a peace take
place with the Russians, which must lessen the demands
on the Grand Signior's coffers, it is supposed that he
would fall one of the first victims to the jealous rage of
the party now in power. Such is the ingratitude and
unjust conduct of this abominable Government, under
which a subject must ever be wretched and unhappy.

December the jth.

We proceeded on our journey, and the first part of

this day's ride was very unpleasant, as we had for three

miles a bad causeway to travel over till we approached

the Meander,^ over which there was a wooden bridge of

^ See p. 89, n.

ZACHONONA. 93

considerable height and length, without battlements and
very narrow ; and the construction of it appeared so
feeble, that we did not cross it without apprehensions.
Here we paused to view this celebrated stream, and bring
to our recollection the great events which took, place on
its banks and will perpetuate its name. Here we fancied
we trod the ground where the great Antiochus sustained
a total overthrow from Lucius Scipio one hundred and
fifty years before Christ,i in which; he lost fifty thousand
foot and four thousand horse with fifteen elephants.

At twelve we reached a poor village called Zachonona
about fifteen miles from Magnesia. We had sent our
mules with the baggage forward. As we reached this
place before them, and had not passed them on the road,
we were seriously alarmed, and apprehended that the
black slave who was with the baggage had either run off
with our effects or was plundered. We remained for
two hours in this painful suspense, and were at length
relieved by the arrival of the negro, who had taken a
different road, by which he had gone several miles out
of his way. After having blamed each other for having
separated from him, as he had in his possession every
valuable and all our money, we resolved to be more
prudent for the future.

We retired to a kind of barn, where we made a
violent attack on our cold provisions. We removed
part of our valuables from the trunks and secured them
in [our] own pockets. Here we were honoured with a
visit from the Governor of the village, accompanied by
fifty other Turks, who all appeared in uniform misery.
They seated themselves on the ground around us and
entertained themselves with admiring our fire-arms,
1 The Battle of Magnesia took place 190 B.C.

94 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

which, we were pleased to find, they were sensible of
being well loaded.

After our dinner we went eighteen miles farther to
the town of Auctozaar,^ and alighted at a caravansary-
inhabited by Greeks who carried on a manufactory of
cotton, for sail-making and other common purposes of
the country. The accommodation was most wretched.
We were all obliged to lie down in the same room : nor
could we get provisions of any kind. It had rained all
day ; we were wet through ; and, to complete our mis-
fortune, we had neither fire or fire-place ; nor could we
procure even a dish of charcoal to dry our clothes. A
traveller, however, must expect to encounter difficulties
and disappointments, particularly in these countries.
Habit teaches us to despise them, and the pleasure we
experience from having surmounted obstacles seems to be
in proportion to their magnitude.

The next morning bore a more favourable appearance.
We travelled over a country uncommonly beautiful ;
diversified with eminences, covered with woods and vast
herds of cattle and the most beautiful flocks of sheep with
flat tails and long pendent ears, the former of an immense
size. We observed no habitation, nor passed any village,
for the first five hours of our ride through a most
romantic country. We halted to breakfast by the side of
a fountain built by the bounty of some penitent and
charitable Turk. This is considered by them an act most
meritorious and benevolent ; and so it really is, when
situated so as to furnish to the weary traveller the re-
freshing draught which he could not otherwise procure.

We soon bid adieu to the fountain which had
refreshed us, and continued our route over a mountainous
' He probably means Akhissar.

TURKISH DOGS. 95

and very wild country, and in five hours arrived at a small
village called Gelembe,i where a small mud-walled room
afforded us shelter. We had some very tough fowls killed
for our supper, and comforting ourselves with the hopes
of a good night's rest, we went to bed at eight, having
had some clean straw spread under our matresses.

In the night, the dogs made so much noise that our
sleep was hourly interrupted. It was not the first time
that we had been annoyed by these animals, which
abound in most of the Turkish towns ; not appertaining-
to any individual, they infest the streets in large packs,
and in the night (particularly when it is moonlight) they
keep up a most dismal howling. We have frequently
counted an hundred of them together. They are of the
wolf and mastiff kind, and very large. It is extraordinary
that in this country where the heat is excessive in
summer these dogs are never known to go mad.

In the morning our landlord had prepared for us a
couple of boiled turkeys, some eggs and milk, which
made ample amends for our bad supper.

We had proceeded but a few miles, when it began to
rain violently and continued the whole day without
intermission. Our Greek capots, which we were assured
at Smyrna would resist twelve hours' rain, were wet
through in less than three. The additional weight of
our clothes when wet soon knocked up our wretched
mules, so that after a most disagreeable ride of eight hours
we were obhged to take up our residence for the night
in such an habitation as few Europeans have ever visited.
It was a wretched hovel of twenty feet long, at one end
of which were some cows and sheep, which we turned
out to make room for horses, while [we] were obliged to-

^ Gelembeh.

96 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

content ourselves with the other corner. To complete
our misery, we had no provisions left, and could procure
nothing but some stinking camel's flesh, highly seasoned
with garlic, and [which] is here esteemed a most delicate
viand by the conductors of caravans who frequent these
roads.

In the morning I was astonished to find that my
faithful Pauolo had, during the night, baked some bread,
made of some coarse flour which he was fortunate
enough to find in the village, and procured some sheep's
milk, so that we were able to make a most delicious
breakfast. It cannot be imagined how much such little
attentions are valued in a servant : when removed from
all friends and relations, in a savage and remote country,
your personal influence and property lose their weight
and consequence and you are left to shift for yourself,
with those advantages which nature and not any for-
tuitous circumstances may have bestowed on you. In
such a situation the servant has, very often, the advantage
over his master, either by his personal strength, his
unimpaired constitution, or his knowledge of useful arts.
If to these qualifications he adds, as my dear Pauolo did,
a good and feeling heart, a sensible mind, a cheerful
disposition and a fidelity that cannot be shaken, he then
becomes a most valuable friend : he is your companion,
and you cheerfully and implicitly look up to him for that
assistance which you cannot derive from your own
powers, and which he bestows with the beneficence of a
friend and the respectful submission of an inferior.

On the two following days we had a most disagreeable
and fatiguing journey to perform, as the country was
wretched and scarcely exhibited any appearance of popu-
lation or improvement of any kind. The hills were

PREPARATIONS FOR ATTACK. 97

covered with brushwood, and the rains had made such
deep ruts in the roads that in many places we had much
difficulty in getting over them. We met with nothing
curious or interesting, except on the second day we over-
took a Turkish guard consisting of an Agha and about
twenty janissaries. They had with them an unfortunate
Greek as a prisoner : he was tied by his legs under the
horse's belly, and his hands were tied behind his back.
On inquiry we were informed that this man was one of
the relations of the late Governor of Scio who had been
beheaded some time before at Constantinople. This poor
prisoner was going then to suffer a similar fate. He
appeared much dejected and seldom spoke to those about
him. While I most sincerely sympathized with this
unhappy victim, I felt a glow of exultation which I could
not suppress, when I reflected on the preeminence of
that most excellent constitution which we enjoy as
British subjects, by which our lives and properties are so
well secured. We continued with this escort for upwards
of three hours, when we found that our mules were not
equal to the fine horses of the Pasha, and that we could
not accompany them at the rate they travelled, though it
did not exceed four miles an hour.

We stopt under the shade of a beautiful hanging
rock, covered with arbutus, where we refreshed ourselves,
at the same [time] allowing our horses to pasture around
us. We were met here by some foot-travellers who
informed us that in all likelihood we should be attacked
before we reached the place of our destination, which
was at about twelve miles' distance. They said that
there was a number of deserters from the Grand Vizier's
army, who had encamped in this part of the country;
that they robbed and massacred every traveller they met

98 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

and had already assassinated many people. I concealed
my apprehensions as well as I could, for fear of alarming
our janissaries. Captain M — ^ and I consulted what was
to be done. We determined to load our fire-arms anew
and to make a most desperate resistance, being well
convinced that nothing but the most determined courage
could extricate us from the hands of such desperadoes. I
informed my Armenian servant of our intentions, who
seemed pleased to meet with an opportunity of manifest-
ing his fidelity and courage. He swore that he would
die by me ; and threatened to shoot the first of our band
who should attempt to run away, or refuse to assist us
when attacked.

His animated and enthusiastic manner of talking
inspired the whole troop with an ardent desire of
signalizing their valour. I knew that I could trust to
the courage of my Irish servant,^ and if I entertained a
doubt of any one it was of those who should be the
foremost in protecting us — I mean our guard and guides,
whom we had hired at Smyrna for that very purpose.

At four in the afternoon we perceived, at the distance
of a mile, a number of people to the amount of thirty,
who were assembling together and coming towards us.
Through my glass I could discover that they were but
indifferently armed. Only ten or twelve of them had
guns ; the rest were armed with bludgeons and daggers.
I informed my little caravan of this circumstance, which
appeared to diffuse universal joy. However, as we drew
nearer, it was deemed necessary to form some plan or
defence. M — being the soldier, I submitted to him the
direction of our manoeuvre; and it was accordingly

> Moore.

^ See Preface,

A FALSE ALARM. 99

resolved that we should proceed two by two. He and I
went first, each of us having a double-barrelled gun and
a case of double-barrelled pistols. My servant Pauolo
and a janissary came next, my Irish servant and another
ianissary afterwards, and close behind followed our
baggage. My servants, to do them justice, did not
appear in the least intimidated ; but all the rest seemed
irresolute and much agitated : and had not M — and I
gone foremost, I am convinced we should have been
deserted by the janissaries.

The gang was now within pistol shot of us, when it
was proposed that we should [halt] and wait their coming
up : this was agreed on by all, except the impatient
Pauolo, who was for giving them the first fire, and then
by impetuously rushing on them to disperse and put them
into confusion. However, he obeyed my injunctions,
which were not to attack until the party's intentions
should appear hostile. When they saw us stop, they did
the same, and it was easily perceived that they were more
frightened than we were. Whereupon, I ordered
Pauolo to ask them what their intentions were. They
assured him that they were poor sailors, on their way
home, and that their intentions were perfectly peaceable
and friendly. I was convinced of the truth of this, and
gave them some money, by way of compensation for
having so wrongfully suspected them. Breathing again a
little more freely, we congratulated each other that we
had not been forced to fight. The alarm, however,
proved of some use to us, as it served to make the
janissaries uncommonly alert in driving on the tired
mules, wishing to get to the place of our destination
before dark.

We pushed forward with all possible expedition and

loo WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

arrived by seven. We alighted at a coffee-house where
by much pecuniary eloquence, which is as persuasive in
this country as in any other, we prevailed on the landlord
to dislodge some Turks who were in possession of the
room, smoking and drinking coffee. Here we were
tolerably comfortable for the night.

December the iith.

It had rained all the morning, and we travelled
through a most comfortless country, till we arrived on
the bank of a very large river, now called Maccatitch, but
formerly Maceston.i Here a most violent dispute arose
between Captain M — and a janissary ; the former
insisting on his driving the baggage-horses before us, and
not allowing them to stop behind, sometimes for half an
hour. The janissary grew so very angry, that he drew
his sabre and vented his rage on a poor mule that carried
our bedding, by cutting him in a most shocking and
savage manner. The poor animal, who was then stand-
ing on the brink of the river, at least twenty feet from
the surface of the water, was forced into it, and swam
upwards of a mile down a most rapid stream, and would
undoubtedly have perished had not Pauolo immediately
undressed himself and mounted another mule, on which
he swam to its relief.

The quarrel began again, which I feared would have
ended very unpleasantly. The janissary drew his sabre,
and had not Mr. M — levelled his gun at him he would
most likely have been dreadfully wounded. I now inter-
fered, in hopes of making peace, as the janissary insisted
on leaving us and returning to Smyrna. I was much
alarmed at this, apprehending that his desire of revenge
' Macestus.

WE REACH MACCATITCH. loi

might induce him to get assistance from the peasants, or
join any party in order to plunder, and perhaps murder
us. I therefore used every means I could devise to pacify
the scoundrel, but to no purpose ; till at last Pauolo
putting his arms round his neck kissed him several times
in the most affectionate manner, which appeased him a
little. He kneeled down, put his fingers in his mouth
and made the most ridiculous grimaces, using at the same
time the most impertinent language, such as " Christian
Dog," "Void of faith," "Unbeliever, etc." Thus his rage
exhausted itself, and Pauolo renewing his embraces, he at
last consented to accompany us.

These altercations took up much of our time, so that
we did not reach Maccatitch till ten in the evening,
where we met our usual difficulties in procuring a lodging
and supper. These are weighty concerns to a traveller,
though they may appear uninteresting to my readers, to
whom I wish to apologise for my tedious repetitions.
But as Homer made his heroes eat and drink, and even
Voltaire, in his poems, took care not to starve them, so I
trust I may be forgiven, if in my narrative, which is
truth itself, I record, perhaps too frequently, occurrences
so unimportant as my breakfast, dinner and supper.

December the 1 2th.
We had now only six hours' ride from this place of
misery to the village of Scala,i where we were to take
boat for Constantinople. Throughout all Turkey the
places where goods are embarked or disembarked are called
Scala, which literally signifies a ladder ; and in many
places we find not only the quay^ or spot of disembark-
ation, but the entire village to which it appertains, to go
^ " At the mouth of the Maccalitch." — Moore's Journal.

102 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

by this common appellation. This prospect of so speedy
a termination to our troubles, raised our spirits, and we
set ofF very early and travelled along the banks of the
Maccatitch for some miles. The country was on both
sides very beautiful and watered with many rivulets.

At half-past four we arrived at this little seaport,
which contains only a few houses ; but its situation is
extremely pleasant. On our arrival we did all in our
power to prevail on some of the owners of the boats
to set sail with us ; but as the wind was not directly fair,
all our entreaties and every inducement we held out were
in vain. They have no idea of going to sea but with a
very fair wind. This disappointment, as it occasioned a
delay of no less than forty-eight hours, almost exhausted
our patience. We amused ourselves with killing some
ducks with which the river was covered. We crossed a
rivulet to a little island formed by this stream, and two
small lakes to the south of the river Maccatitch where
we had most excellent sport, having killed many wild
ducks, teal, snipes and three hares of an uncommonly
large size.

At last the weather setting fair, our nokidah, or pilot,
ventured to get under weigh, and after a very short navi-
gation we landed at Top-Hanna ^ Scala, on the fourteenth
of December at four in the evening.

^ Top-Khaneh, or Gun House.

CHAPTER IV.

Constantinople — ^Pera — Dancing Boys — The Grand Signior's Procession
to St. Sophia — View of Constantinople — The Grand Signior's Barges
— Mosque of St. Sophia — ^The Character of Capitan Pasha — Our
Reception — The Turkish Fleet — Dervishes — The Seraglio.

At Constantinople, as well as in other European
capitals, you are obliged on your arrival first to proceed
to the Custom-house, not so much for the purpose of
paying the duties imposed by Government as to satisfy
the rapacity of its Officers ; and we found that money had
as much effisct on this bearded gentry, as on our Christian
tide-waiters. We were immediately dismissed, and
repaired to a house, which is called the French Tavern,
where, having dressed ourselves as expeditiously as pos-
sible, [we] went to pay our respects to our Ambassador,
Sir R — A — ,^ for whom we had letters from England.
He received us with all that affability and good nature so
congenial to the character of that worthy gentleman.
Here we met several of our intimate friends, and the
hospitality and convivial manners of his Excellency, to
whose table we were invited during our stay at Con-
stantinople, made us soon forget all our sufferings from
fatigue and hunger during our journey from Smyrna to
this place.

December the i ^th.

This was the day I had fixed upon to be at Jerusalem,
it being my birthday : yet as I had sufficient time before
me, I did not feel myself disappointed. It was proposed

' Sir Robert Ainslie.

104 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

that we should make a party to the " Sweet waters."
This is a remarkable place for snipe-shooting, and runs
through the Grand Signior's plantations. We accom-
panied Capt. F — 1 of the Pearl frigate on board his ship,
and were joined there by many of the British officers.
The Grand Signior has on this little river, which empties
itself into the harbour of Constantinople, a very fine
Kiosk, a tuakish, or summer-house, with many temples
erected on its banks. There is great abundance of grass
here in the summer, and it is on these meadows the
Arabs encamp who attend the Grand Signior's horses,
which are turned out in April for the remainder of the
summer. We had but little diversion, but the beauties
of the place made us ample recompense for this dis-
appointment. In the spring and autumn, this river is
the fashionable resort of the grandees of the metropolis,
where they come in the most splendid barges of fifty and
sixty feet in length, rowed by their eunuchs and accom-
panied by their women.

We walked afterwards about the town ot Pera, and
paid visits to some English ladies. Pera is a Greek word,
signifying " beyond," this suburb being situated beyond
the gate of Galata. This is a most delightful situation,
from which you have a view of the coast of Asia, and the
Seraglio of the Grand Signior. The English, French,
Venetian and Dutch ambassadors have their palaces here.
Those of the Emperor and the King of Poland reside
at Constantinople. The foreign merchants have their
dwellings and warehouses at Pera as well as at Galata,
amongst Jews, Greeks, Turks and Armenians. The
French Palace is a most beautiful building, and contains
a chapel which was kept by Capuchin friars.

' The Hon. Seymour Finch.

CONSTANTINOPLE. 105

We visited the Gun Whart and saw some brass guns
singularly constructed. They were of uncommon length,
particularly a sixty-two pounder above twenty-five feet
long, and many others as extraordinary in various respects,
which did not induce us to entertain a favourable opinion
of the Turkish ordnance, or the progress this nation has
made in the artillery branch of military science, not-
withstanding the assurances Monsieur de Tott has given
us of his having brought it to the highest pitch ot
perfection at Constantinople.

December the 16th.

We dined at Monsieur de B — 's,i the Spanish En-
voy, where we had a most splendid entertainment. This
gentleman was well acquainted with Irish hospitality,
and gave us a great variety of most excellent wines. He
promised us letters for the Terra Sancta at Jerusalem.
This was a most desirable offer ; as that convent is
principally maintained by the bounty of the Spanish
Court ; and these letters afterwards proved of the
greatest service to us, both at Jerusalem and in many
other places in the Holy Land.

We were likewise so fortunate as to be introduced
to Madame la Baronne de H — ,^ who engaged us to
accompany her the following day to Buyukdereh, a beauti-
ful village on the Canal at the entrance of the Black
Sea, where she had a country house, and intended soon
to give a fete champetre. This was too agreeable a party
to be refused. His Excellency was likewise engaged,
who mounted us on his horses, and rode himself a most
beautiful Arabian, which had been presented to him by
the Capitan Pasha. We had a most charming ride of

' Don Juan de Bouligny. — Moore's Journal.
^ de Hubsch.- — Moore's Journal,

io6 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

twelve miles, and on our arrival were introduced by the
lady to her beloved consort, whom I soon discovered
to be a great botanist, and famous for the cultivation of
rare and curious plants. This gentleman, between whom
and his youthful wife there was a great disparity of
years, spent most of his time in his garden, while her
ladyship contented herself with now and then paying a
visit to a most beautiful geranium flower, which was
occasionally placed in one room or another of the castle.
He had been married before and had a daughter a few
months elder than her beautiful step-mother ; so that
there existed a kind of jealousy between these ladies, who
should please or be noticed most, a circumstance which
generally turned to the advantage of the visitors ; and
it was not difficult to discover that Mademoiselle
Curregonde, rather than remain in her present state,
would do anything to be placed under the protection of
a husband, even were he as old as her father. However,
we must not be too severe on those ladies, who made
us spend two very agreeable days. Their hospitality,
their engaging manners, I shall remember with the most
lively sense of respect and gratitude.

December the loth.

We got up by sunrise fully determined to make the
best use of the day, in visiting and examining the dif-
ferent curiosities of Constantinople. We stopt at a sort
of Turkish Tavern or Coffee-house, to see the Dancing
Boys who are kept at those places * * #

There were two Turks at breakfast in the gallery who
were entertaining themselves in a manner horrid to the
ideas of a rational being. Those boys have a method of
cracking their fingers and fixing little bells to their wrists,
with which they produce sounds and play tunes that are

THE PROCESSION TO ST. SOPHIA. 107

much admired. Being disgusted with this species of
entertainment, I hastened from the horrid scene.

We went next to see the Grand Signior go to the
Mosque of St. Sophia, which was by far the finest
masquerade that was ever exhibited. As my talent at
the descriptive would not enable me to do justice to the
grandeur of this curious procession, I endeavoured to
supply the deficiency by a sketch which I made on the
spot ; but which I unfortunately lost on my return from
the Continent, with a collection of many other valuable
drawings.i I regret this loss the more, at present, as it
deprives me of the satisfaction of presenting a print of it
to my subscribers.

The Grand Signior sets off from the Seraglio at nine
o'clock in the morning, to go to the Mosque of St. Sophia,
or of Osmenie, the latter being the burial place of all the
Ottoman Princes. There is on those occasions a degree
of magnificence displayed in the dresses of the various
guards and officers of the household, in their turbans and
plumes, of which an European who never visited the
Eastern countries can have no idea. Their fine horses
with the uncommon riches of their trappings have an
appearance of pomp and splendour that far surpasses that
of any European Court, while the abject homage which
the Sultan receives from his subjects, and the unrivalled
grandeur of the exhibition inspires a stranger with a
momentary idea, that the pompous title of " King of
Kings," which the Grand Signior arrogates to himself, is
realised, and that he absolutely beholds the greatest of
earthly sovereigns.

On our return we met with a very uncommon kind
of vehicle, much resembling a covered cart, which is
' See p. 6.

io8 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

used by the Turkish ladies of fashion, who are seated in
it cross-legged on a mat. I perceived ten in the one I
met, stowed together in such a manner that they must
have suffered extremely from the heat, as there was but
one small window to admit the air. I was informed
that this fine equipage, drawn by two buffaloes, was the
property of a renegado who was formerly a rich French
merchant, and having failed, thought proper to change
his religion in order to meliorate his circumstances, in
which he has so well succeeded that he is now able to keep
seven wives and concubines without number. I could
not help wondering or doubting whether his temperament
had increased proportionately with his wealth and years.

At one I set off accompanied by Capt. F — ^ to see
the Grand Signior's Barges. The Canal of Constantinople,
from the entrance of the Harbour to the Towers at the
head of the Black Sea, affords one of the finest coup-d'ceils
in the world.

On entering the Harbour, there is on the left
the Seraglio of the Grand Signior with its extensive
gardens and lofty walls ; afterwards you see the superb
Mosques, raising their heads above the other buildings,
which in Constantinople are generally but one or two
stories high. On the right the view is terminated
towards the " Sweet waters," by a magnificent Kiosk
belonging to the Grand Signior, where he has likewise
very extensive gardens. On the front, along the rising
ground, is the Arsenal, Pera, Galata and the other
suburbs of Constantinople. The beautifully situated
town of Scutari also attracts the attention of the traveller,
besides numberless other neat villages that extend the
whole length of the Bosphorus, both on the European
' See p. 104.

THE IMPERIAL BARGES. 109

and Asiatic side, as far as the mouth of the Black Sea.
The number of ships of all nations, besides Tartans,
Schebecks, and the most magnificent Barges, with which
the river is always covered, and the hundreds of Kiakas
filled with ladies, with their proprietors going on parties
of pleasure, give the most lively appearance to the scene ;
and one cannot help regretting that so heavenly a spot
should be in the possession of such barbarians. From the
peculiar advantages of its situation, it is admirably well
calculated to be the seat of the arts, as well as the
emporium of the most extensive commerce. What a pity
that with all these advantages this capital should be doomed
to remain subject to a barbarous despot, whose character
seems merely a compound of ignorance and tyranny.

The Grand Signior's Barges surpass anything of the
kind in pomp and grandeur. The largest of these
wonderful pleasure boats is ninety-six feet in length,
ornamented in the most costly manner. They have from
forty-eight to sixty oars, and have canopies, each of a
different construction, supported on ivory or silver and
gilded columns, exquisitely wrought. Under the canopy
the Grand Signior seats himself on a carpet of the most
costly embroidery, which commonly costs upwards of
twenty-five thousand piastres, or two thousand five
hundred pounds sterling, and which is always the last
brought from Mecca. The gun-holes are of solid silver,
beautifully carved in Turkish characters, and the magni-
ficence as well as taste displayed throughout the whole
is really astonishing. Notwithstanding the ornaments
with which these boats are loaded, they are well con-
structed for swiftness, being built sharp, somewhat
resembling those on the Thames.

Every year an immense caravan sets out from Con-

no WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

stantinople to Mecca, to visit the Tomb of the Holy-
Prophet. It consists of persons of the first rank in
Turkey, and of no less than three, four and sometimes
five thousand pilgrims. The Grand Signior always sends
costly presents for the Sepulchre of Mahomet, among
which is a carpet to cover the Tomb, and the one sent
the year preceding is brought back to Constantinople and
placed in the Seraglio. On that carpet the Sultan is
usually seated when he appears in state ; and it [is] con-
sidered by all good Musulmen as the safest and most
sacred guard the Grand Signior could have in his Palace,
in case of an insurrection taking place at Constantinople,
where his person might be in danger.

On the following day we visited the Mosque of St.
Sophia, which is worthy of notice, both on account of
its antiquity and structure. On our arrival the Imam
made some difficulty about admitting us, which how-
ever our janissary soon removed. We gave three
Venetian sequins for allowing us to ascend the gallery,
from which the whole inside may be seen, as Christians
are never permitted to enter the lower part of the
Mosque without a firman to that effect, which is an
order from the Grand Signior written by his own hand.

This building is of an oblong square, two hundred
and fifty feet in length and one hundred and eighty in
breadth. It stands east and west, according to the
Grecian custom, and forms the figure of a cross. It is
said to have been begun by the architect Artemius ^ and
finished by Isodorus.^ Four immense columns, united by
arches, support a cupola of a vast magnitude. It was
formerly ornamented with mosaic work, which the
Turks have almost entirely demolished. At the head ot

' Anthemius. ' Isidorus. Moore's Journal has the same errors.

MOSQUE OF ST. SOPHIA. iir

the cross stood formerly the Sanctum Sanctorum. The
ancient altar has been destroyed to make way for the
mehrabe, or Turkish altar, towards which the Turks turn
themselves when at prayer. It is only a niche in which
is placed a very large book of the Koran, with a green
veil, and a pair of immense chandeliers are suspended on
each side. Near it is a kind of corridor in which the
Grand Siguier adores his Prophet : it is but little
ornamented, and has gilt blinds. Here the Sultan is
obliged to come almost every Friday to offer his
devotions : and I have been informed that if he were
often to neglect this duty, it would occasion a rebellion.
The floor of the Mosque is mostly covered with carpets,
and is of a very fine marble of the island of Marmora.
The columns of the galleries are likewise of the most
beautiful marbles of various kinds.

The building is in many places in the most ruinous
condition. Many of the columns are held together by
iron hoops, and it is probable that the slightest shock of
an earthquake would bring this boasted monument ot
ancient architecture to the ground.

This Mosque has four minarets, one of which is built
on the ancient steeple, and of a different architecture
from the others. The souchtar, or Turkish priest, ascends
five times a day to the highest gallery and calls the
faithful to prayer.

On leaving the Mosque we intended to go on a
sailing party, but the day being too windy we were
obliged to give up the idea, and returned to visit the
different line-of-battle ships that were laid up at
Tersakhaneh. We only ventured to examine their out-
side, as the plague was then raging on board, and our
curiosity was not quite so violent as to overcome our

112 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

apprehensions of danger. These vessels have much
useless finery about them, being encumbered with carved
images, painted, or rather daubed over, in green and gold.
They mount cannon of different calibres on their main
deck, and carry nothing but swivels on the others ;
trusting more to their pistols and sabres than to the
guns, which are very badly worked by their sailors.

We received at this time a message from the Capitan
Pasha, brought to us by the Ambassador's dragoman,
informing us that we might wait on him the following
day. He likewise gave us to understand, that we should
be obliged to take off our shoes at the door, in conformity
to the custom of the Turks. We did not relish the idea
of walking bare-footed, but must have submitted to it
had not the Capitan Pasha sent an order that he would
dispense with that ceremony.

Before I give an account of our reception, I must
introduce this extraordinary character to my readers, such
as he was represented to me by several persons of the
highest respectability, and particularly by Sir R — A — .1

Hassan Pasha is now in his seventy-sixth year : he
was born at Teflis in Georgia ; from whence, when a
boy, he was brought to Constantinople and sold as a slave.
His first master soon dying, he passed through various
hands, and went at last to Algiers in the service of a
Turk who fell a victim to the plague. Hassan was
immediately seized and sold to pay off some of his
deceased master's debts. Being of a very fine figure
and lively disposition, he was purchased for the Dey, and
entered into his service where he remained for some
years, till an opportunity presented itself of making his
escape : this he effected in a Spanish corn vessel, trading

^ See p. 103.

HASSAN PASHA. 113

from Algiers to the port of Carthagena. Having taken
a little money with him, he procured his passage in a vessel
bound to the coast of Italy, from whence he crossed into
Dalmatia, and proceeded to Constantinople, where he
entered in the capacity of cagliongi, a post one step higher
than a common sailor, on board the Turkish Fleet. By his
good behaviour in [this] station he soon obtained advance-
ment, and was gradually promoted to the rank of Kapitan
or Commander of a ship. He filled this post at the
time the Turkish Fleet was burnt and destroyed by the
Russians, in the bay of Cismi,^ commanded by Count
Alexander Orlow, in the year 1771. He shewed so
much gallantry and good conduct in that unfortunate
affair, that on the death of the High Admiral, who fell a
victim to the poignancy of his grief two years afterwards,
he was appointed his successor. He has for fifteen years
past filled this important station with much credit and
honour to himself He has always held the highest place
in the confidence of his capricious sovereign ; and enjoys
the happiness of seeing himself both loved and feared by
all the officers and sailors of the fleet, and is looked up
to by his country as its principal ornament and support.
Though he is now in an advanced age, he appears both
healthy and robust : he has a fine open manly countenance
but strongly expressive of that ungovernable ferocity
which manifests itself on certain occasions, and which
may rather be attributed to the want of a liberal
education and to that general system of despotism which
exists in that country, and in a certain degree pervades
every class, than to any propensity to cruelty with which
his disposition might be naturally tinctured. He is
brave almost to a degree of temerity, active, strong and

' i.e., Tchesme. The year should be 1770.

114 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

vigorous. In his youth he excelled all his companions in
their exercises. He managed his horses with more
address, threw his arrow to a greater distance and with
more judgment than any man. Impelled by his vigorous
arm, the gerite^ flew with unerring precision and double
velocity. He uses his pistols and sabre with superior
skill : but his pre-eminence was most conspicuous at the
public spectacles of the Grand Signior in the circus,
where the young men opposed themselves in fierce
combat to the lion, or other ferocious animals and where
the meed of victory constantly adorned Hassan's brow.
Courageous, generous, benevolent and, except when under
the immediate influence of passion, most humane ;
impartial in his official distribution of rewards and
punishments ; warm and sincere in his attachments ;
affable and courteous to his inferiors ; ever ready to
alleviate distress ; but implacable in his enmity to
oppressor ; it is only to be lamented that a character
rendered brilliant by so many excellent qualities was not
destined to shine under the more happy influence of a
Christian Government, where the prejudices inseparable
from a Turkish education, which have been productive
of the only blemish that tarnishes so bright a character,
could never have existed.

In the high post he enjoys as Lord High Admiral,
his privileges are very nearly as great as those of the
most despotic prince, and the lives of all his inferiors are
at his disposal.

At all the conflagrations in the city or suburbs ot
Constantinople, which are pretty frequent, the Grand
Signior, Grand Vizier, and Capitan Pasha are obliged to
assist, in order to animate by their presence and per-

^ "A kind of dart about lO or 12 feet long." — Moore's "Journal.

OUR RECEPTION. 115

suasion those [who] are employed in putting out the
flames. The last of these great personages who arrives
forfeits a certain sum of money, one thousand Venetian
sequins, in favour of the first. The Capitan Pasha is
constantly the first, though he is by many years the
eldest of the three. On the night of the twenty-first,
when a fire broke out in the palace of the Grand Vizier,
who was with the army, the Capitan Pasha was at his
beautiful villa, situated about four miles from Constantin-
ople. He was immediately informed of it, and in a
moment set off on horseback, with forty attendants, and
reached town in less than twenty minutes, though the
road was scarcely passable, being covered with snow some
feet deep, and the night unusually dark ; so that out of
his forty attendants, one only was able to keep up with
him, all the rest having been thrown from their horses,
and unable or unwilling to follow him.

Now for an account of our audience. At ten in the
morning I set out, accompanied by the Hon. Captain F — ,1
and the officers of the Pearl frigate, for Top-Hanna,
where we found the boats of the Captain and his first
lieutenant waiting for us. The men were dressed in
their Barge jackets, and the ofiicers in their full uniforms.
We proceeded by water to Capitan Pasha's palace and
arrived at the Gate of the Seraglio in less than a quarter of
an hour. On entering the first Court we were met by the
dragoman of the Palace, who with a suite of attendants
conducted us through a range of apartments to the Levee
room, where we found the Pasha ready to receive us.

He was seated in state, on superb cushions ; behind,
according to custom, was a display of all his most costly
arms, beautifully mounted on gold, silver and precious
' Hon. Seymour Finch.

I 2

ii6 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

stones. We were all struck with the noble air and
countenance of this venerable and truly respectable old
man. He rose half way from his seat to receive us :
this was considered as the greatest condescension possible
on his part ; as a Turk is scarcely ever known to rise
to salute a Christian, and it was a matter of astonishment
to his officers and attendants. He was most superbly
dressed and wore his turban of state, a white band round
his forehead, and a high cap with a large diamond
feather. The Levee room was very large, furnished a la
turque with beautiful cushions spread upon the ground.
He ordered us to be seated. I had the honour of sitting
at one side of him and Captain F — at the other ; the
other gentlemen were seated in a semicircle at the end of
the apartment. He began the conversation by telling us
that he had always loved the English nation ; inquired
much after our ambassador, who he said was a man of
courage and probity, who could be depended upon. He
took notice of my [clothes], which in comparison to his
were short indeed. I informed him of my intention of
visiting the Holy Land, and that consequently I was
preparing myself for the long dress. This idea seemed to
afford him great amusement, and he was so polite as to
offer me letters of protection to all the different Governors
and Kapitans commanding in the Mediterranean, and even
promised to procure me -i. firman from the Grand Signior.
I said everything I could to testify my gratitude, and
presented him at the same time with a remarkable
telescope, with which he was very much delighted ; the
more so, as he had lately broken the only one in his
possession, and had not had an opportunity of replacing
it. I likewise presented him with a pistol which from
its peculiar construction could fire seven balls one after

OUR RECEPTION. 117

another, with one loading ; it cost me one hundred
guineas. But Capitan Pasha, not wishing to be behind
hand with me in point of generosity, sent me the
following day a most beautiful pelice, and a whole bottle
of otto de rose, which in England as well as in Turkey
is worth four hundred pounds, as it required no less than
twelve acres of roses to produce that quantity.

We were then served by a vast number of attendants
with fifty different kinds of refreshments, such as cakes,
sweetmeats, etc. Each article was served by a different
servant, all dressed in the richest robes of embroidered
satin : another slave carried an embroidered muslin
napkin richly ornamented with gold and silver fringe
and spangles : nor was a napkin carried by the same
person twice, and this was changed as often as a different
kind of sweetmeats was offered ; this sort of luxury being
carried so far that we were not permitted even to wipe
ourselves a second time with the same napkin. There
could not be less than two hundred attendants, all armed
with a fine case of pistols, and a sabre large and sharp
enough to cut off the head of an ox.

After this procession of sweetmeats, coffee was served,
and then otto of roses to perfume the beard. Pipes came
afterwards, and I having by this time learned to smoke,
shewed myself quite an adept in the art. Having stayed
about an hour and a quarter, we took our leave and asked
permission to see the Pasha's stables, which he readily
granted, and which was considered as the greatest honour
he could pay us ; as the Turks, among other superstitious
notions, firmly believe that if a Christian cast his eyes on
their children and horses, the two principal objects of
their affection and attention, they are thereby exposed to
the danger of losing their eyes.

ii8 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

We were conducted to the stables by the Master oi
Horse. We went through several vast apartments and
descended by a flight of steps into a private passage,
through which we passed into the stables. They con-
tained upwards of one hundred horses, most of which
were exquisitely beautiful : they were chiefly Arabian,
and many well worth one thousand guineas in England.
Each horse had his proper attendant, and though the
stables were very spacious, there was scarcely room to
move, as the grooms had all assembled in expectation of
receiving some presents from me. I gave them but a
trifle, with which they appeared much satisfied. All the
horses were in the highest condition, and their coats as
fine as satin, which considering that it was December,
and the coldest weather remembered at Constantinople
for some years, was a remarkable and astonishing
circumstance.

We stayed an hour in this place, and were returning
to take leave, when, as we had advanced some way into a
large apartment, I perceived the Capitan Pasha and
several of his attendants on their knees. Our Dragoman
came up too late to prevent me from being noticed, and
we were going to retire when the Capitan made a sign
and said that we should not mind him but walk on
through the megtte or private chapel. This was another
remarkable instance of his politeness ; as it is considered
by the generality of Turks highly degrading to be dis-
tracted by any object when at their devotion, especially
in the presence of a Christian. His prayers did not
continue above five minutes when he arose and gave
orders that we should be shewn into a Kiosk belonging
to the Grand Signior, where he seldom comes but in
the summer, and then incognito to see the Pasha, who had

THE TURKISH FLEET. 119

made a present of it to the Grand Signior. It is of an
octagonal form, most beautifully fitted up, with a fountain
in the centre. The floor is of the finest variegated
marble, and the whole surpassed in elegance everything
of the kind I had ever seen. I was credibly informed
it cost the Capitan Pasha upwards of fifteen thousand
pounds.

Our boats had been ordered round to one of the
doors of this beautiful building, close to the water, so
that from the Kiosk we took our leave and stept into
them. We saw him peep through the window blinds
and laugh excessively when the Barge-men dropt their
oars together in the water. I heard afterwards from Sir
R — A — ^ that he liked the practice exceedingly, and
intended to introduce it into the Turkish Navy.

The Turks send every year a Naval armament to the
different islands and provinces bordering on the sea coast.
This fleet is regulated as to the strength and number of
the ships by the magnitude of the services which it is
meant or expected to perform. If the Porte is not
engaged in war with any foreign power, it is commonly
composed of five or six ships. They collect the enormous
taxes to which all those islands are subject ; particularly
those inhabited by Greeks and other Franks. Before
they set sail an annual ceremony is observed and per-
formed with as much pomp and ostentation as if pre-
parations were making against a most powerful enemy.
And, as it may give a further idea of eastern magnificence,
I shall give the same description of it that was given me
by a well-informed gentleman who was witness to it last
year.

On the fourth of May, at eight in the morning,

' Sir Robert Ainslie.

I20 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

the Sultan repairs in his Barge of State to one of his
kiosks, built close to the water. He is attended by his
chamberlains and officers of State, his janissaries, pages,
Body and inferior Guards parading around their Sovereign
in different Barges according to their respective ranks.
The Sultan is seated under a superb canopy till he arrives
at his kiosk. He is soon followed by the Grand Vizier,
who takes his station close to the Wharf in his Barge.
On this occasion the harbour is covered with boats
belonging to the different noblemen, with their women,
come in the greatest pomp to be spectators of this
beautiful sight.

The Capitan Pasha on his side embarks with great
solemnity at Casum Pasha,i the place where the ships
are stationed and where he has a Palace, in a galley of
fifty oars rowed by slaves. He is attended by three
whole and three half galleys, and by a vast number of
boats, in which people of the first consequence come to
pay their respects to him.

This procession is conducted with so much solemnity
and deliberation, that they are two hours rowing to the
Grand Signior's kiosk, though but a mile's distance.
The Pasha's galley being arrived abreast of the Wharf,
he goes on shore attended by the Captains of the different
ships under his command, and there he is received by
one of the Officers of State, who invests him with a
garment, the insignia of his office. He is then conducted
by two cauci into the presence of the Grand Signior, who
wishes him success in his enterprize, and a happy and
safe return. He then takes leave and returns to his
Barge, where he is received with a general salute from all
the galleys, all the ships in the harbour, and afterwards

^ i.e.y Kassim Pasha.

DERVISHES. 121

by the batteries of Top-Hanna. He next proceeds along
the Canal to the village of Besci Jacci, near the Black
Sea, on the European side of the Canal, where he receives
a grand entertainment from the Prime Vizier. This last
ceremony over, he departs for his station.

December the zyd.

Having heard much said respecting the ceremonies of
the Dervishes, I proposed to my companion to pay them
a visit this morning. As they wish to make the
bystanders believe that they are actuated by inspiration
and religious zeal to the horrid deeds they commit on
themselves, they are always pleased to see strangers,
particularly Giaours, Christian dogs, witness their cere-
monies, in hopes of obtaining the reward which is
reserved for them if they convert any one by so great a
display of faith to the Mahometan religion. And so
much are weak minds enslaved by the blind bigotry of
the Greek Church, that I have been informed from good
authority that it is forbidden by their priests, under pain
of non-absolution, to visit these assemblies of Dervishes,
from an apprehension that the sufferings which they
voluntarily undergo and inflict on themselves for the
honour of their religion might have so forcible an effect
upon the understanding of the greatest part as to shake
their Catholic faith and convert them to Mahometanism.

At nine o'clock we were conducted by our janissaries
to the hall where these Dervishes were assembled, to the
number of a dozen, and attended by upwards of one
hundred spectators. The scene was opened by a dance
of a most ridiculous nature : three of the Dervishes stood
up at a time in a most curious dress, one part of which
was a sort of petticoat fastened very high upon their

122 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

waist, with a short jacket open before and their arms
bare. They began by turning themselves round for
upwards of half an hour, till quite overcome with a
vertigo they all three fell senseless on the ground, amidst
the acclamations of the spectators. The next object that
presented itself to our view was a man pinching the
flesh on his arm with a broad pair of pincers made for
the purpose, till there was not a spot on his left arm and
shoulder that was not bursting forth with extravasated
blood. This fellow wished to impress the bystanders
with the belief that his religious zeal prevented his
suffering any pain from this dreadful operation. And
though, to do him justice, his countenance did not betray
the whole extent of his sufferings, yet could he not
succeed in persuading any rational being that God would
deaden a man's feelings, and prevent him from suffering
the pain that he voluntarily inflicted on himself through
his folly or fanaticism.

I afterwards witnessed many similar sights, all equally
disgusting ; but what shocked me the most was a
Dervish, who first held a red-hot bar of iron in his teeth
till they were nearly burnt out of his head ; and after-
wards held it in his hands, till the flesh was almost
entirely burnt off his fingers. This rendered the place
so offensive with the smell of his broiling flesh that I
was obliged to take my departure.

There is another ceremony among these poor deluded
wretches which I did not want to see — it is their
devouring serpents alive. They accomplish this by first
laying hold of the animal by the neck and beginning
their repast on the head, while the tortured animal
writhes itself round their arm, to the very great enter-
tainment of the ignorant spectators, who shout ap-

THE SERAGLIO. 123

plause and ever after consider these miserable fanatics as
saints.

Leaving this disgusting spectacle, we went to Top-
Hanna and embarked in a boat to cross the Canal,
with an intention of taking a stroll about the town of
Constantinople, and particularly to examine as much of
the Seraglio as may be viewed without much danger
or inconvenience.

This Palace occupies the place where anciently stood
Byzantium, on the point of the Peninsula of Thracia,
near the Bosphorus. It was erected by Mahomed II.,
and is three miles in circuit. Its form is triangular:
the buildings are on the top and declivity of the hill, and
the gardens extend as far as the sea. The exterior has
nothing striking or remarkable ; and if we are to judge
of the beauty of the gardens by the quantity of cypress-
trees they contain, we may fairly conclude that they are
not better cultivated or more curiously laid out than
those of other individuals in Constantinople. The only
particular care that appeared to have been taken, was to
overload the grounds with shrubs and evergreens in order
to conceal from the inhabitants of Galata and the other
neighbouring places the sight of the Sultanas while they
are walking in them. On going into the first court ot
the Seraglio, we were shewn a kind of wall with niches
for exposing the heads of great state criminals. The first
court of the Seraglio is immense, and is guarded by fifty
capigis, who are only armed with a small stick. It
contains the infirmary, the bake-houses and other offices,
as well as barracks for the Baliondgis. On the left hand
of this square is the ancient church of St. Irene, which
was built by Constantine the Great, and is now converted
into a storehouse for arms. In this court is also a fountain

124 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

to which the Greeks come on certain festivals to drink of
its waters, for which they pay very handsomely to the
Grand Signior. Everybody is allowed to enter this court,
where a most profound silence reigns ; for if anyone was
to make the least noise, it would be construed into a want
of respect to the Master, and the delinquent would be
bastinadoed on the spot.

The second court is more regular and much more
agreeable than the first. It is likewise guarded by fifty
capigis, and has two towers, near which is the Hall of
Execution, where the viziers are tried and beheaded.
This explains a Turkish common expression, which is
applied to those who are checked in their career : " to
be stopt between the two doors," as there is one at each
side of this place of execution. Here is still to be seen
the mortar and pestle that were kept for pounding the
Muftis and Mamas when guilty of treason or other
offences. The property of these people not [.?] being sub-
ject to confiscation, they were certain of carrying nothing
out of this world with them ; not even whole bones.

There are three passages leading out of this great court.
The first to the right leads to the Divan, which is the
highest tower of the Seraglio. It is a large square
building, in which the councils of state are held. The
second passage is in the centre of the court, and leads to
the Gate of Felicity ; it also conducts you to the
presence chamber where the Grand Signior receives the
foreign ambassadors. Between this gate and the square
is a small kiosk where the Kislar Agha holds his Divan,
and woe unto those who come under the cognizance of
this court of inquiry. The third passage leads to the
kitchens, nine in number, and other offices. The
remaining buildings on the same line are the Treasury,

THE SERAGLIO. 125

the Treasurer's House, a Mosque, two kiosks and a
beautiful bath.

The buildings at the back of the Divan are the apart-
ments of the Grand Signior, and near them the great
Haram. The interior of these apartments displays the
highest degree of richness and sumptuous magnificence.
I have not been enabled to ascertain the number of
beauties they contain. I understood that those only were
called Sultanas who had been honoured with a peculiar
preference by the Grand Signior, and could add to that
distinction the far more envious title of " mother."

The Seraglio contains two distinct orders of favourites.
Those who have been honoured but once with the
gracious embraces of the Sultan are called odalisks, and
the asakis are those who can boast of having been noticed
several times. Unhappy victims ! who are obliged to
solicit and pine after the embraces of a surly, debauched,
and enervated tyrant. With all his riches and power, he
can command only sensual enjoyments ; and has perhaps
never felt or communicated that heavenly enchantment,
which is the result of the close union of two congenial
souls.

The strictest policy is observed in the Haram : the
women can enjoy, and are promoted to, places of rank
and emolument. Crimes are punished with death : the
guilty are tied up and thrown into the sea. But what-
ever riches or dignities they enjoy, they are nevertheless
subservient to the control and caprice of eunuchs.
They are allowed a physician when sick, who must,
however, feel their pulse thro' a gauze. The eunuchs
mount guard in the interior of the apartments ; their chief
is called Capiaga. The black eunuchs, and of them the
most hideous, alone approach the odalisks. The ichoglans

126 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

are the pages of the Grand Signior ; they are very
handsome young boys, and were formerly selected from
among the captives : but now many families among the
Turks solicit that honour for their children, and often
pay a sum of money to obtain it. The Mutes are a
particular class of servants, always at hand and ready to
execute the secret orders of the Prince. They express
their meaning by signs with an astonishing perspicacity.
When the Emperor walks in the gardens with his
women a bell is rung, and the gardeners and labourers
are obliged to retreat precipitately under pain of death.

CHAPTER V.

Constantinople, continued — Pera — ■ Its Antiquities — Obelisks — Cistern
of Basilica — The Slave IVIarket — The Coffee Manufactory — The
Watch-Tower — The Seven Towers — Ramaden — A Bath for the
Ladies — Character of the Turks — Dress — The Ladies — Their Food
— Their Diversions — Arts and Sciences — A Turkish Billet-Doux —
The Plague — The Police — The Grand Signior — Public Buildings —
Marriages — Janissaries.

On going from the Seraglio a foreigner is much
pleased with the beautiful front of St. Sophia, close to
which stands one of the finest fountains in Constantinople,
built by the Grand Signior and richly ornamented with
gold and Turkish characters. We afterwards went to see
a Mosque built by Sultan Achmet ; it is a very beautiful
building and in its interior far exceeds that of St.
Sophia, having six lofty minarets and three galleries.
The immense square, in the middle of which it stands,
was begun by the Emperor Severus and finished by
Constantine. Proceeding on the right, you enter the
largest street or Constantinople, called Divan Tole Dgiami.
All the amabadgis, guards of the highest order of the
Grand Signior, have their houses here. At the bottom
of this street are still seen some ruins of superb arcades,
which formerly belonged to the Palaces of the Emperors,
and the famous staircase by which the princes ascended to
the celebrated place At-meidan, which under the Greek
Emperors was called Hippodrome. It was a Circus in
which the public spectacles of horse-racing, bull-fighting

128 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

etc., were represented. It is more than twelve hundred
feet long and three hundred broad. The few antiquities
to be seen at Constantinople are chiefly in this square,
and reduced to two obelisks and a few columns.

The first obelisk is about thirty-five feet high : it
consists of two pieces of red oriental granite, which are
in high preservation ; as well as the Egyptian hiero-
glyphics, which cover it almost from top to bottom. It
stands on a pedestal of white marble, and on the side
fronting the Mosque are seen Latin hexameters, still
legible ; by which it appears that it was erected by the
Emperor Theodosius. On the base are several figures
in basso relievo ; but mostly effaced by the ravages of
time. Theodosius is represented on one side, with a
palm and a crown in his hand, and on the other is the
representation of a battle. There is another obelisk at
the extremity of this great place, of fifty feet height.
It has four sides, and is built of large square stones which
are crowded with figures in basso relievo. It is erected
on a pedestal, on which is a Greek inscription almost
obliterated. A little farther on, an immense pillar of
bronze, resembling three large serpents entwined together,
presents itself to view. These serpents have lost their
heads, and their bodies are nearly [? defaced by the]
stones which children are incessantly throwing into them.
It is supposed that this pillar served as one of the tripods
in the temple of Delphi, which was consecrated to Apollo,
and that it was removed to this city by Constantine the
Great.

From this place we went to examine a very great
Cistern, anciently called the Cistern of Basilica, which,
though the Turks have curtailed more than two thirds,
is still immense. It is now quite dry, and contains

THE SLAVE MARKET. 129

several hundred persons preparing and winding silk for
the manufactories, who fasten their skeins or hanks to
the different pillars that support this vast reservoir.
Some Greek inscriptions are still to be seen ; but I could
not find any of them legible. No traveller or antiquarian
has yet been able to ascertain the use of this reservoir.

As it was now near our dinner hour, and we were at
some distance from the ambassador's Palace, we hastened
our return home, but by another road, and had the
pleasure of viewing en passant a place called Catergha
Limanis, or the Port of the Galleys. This is a very pretty
part of the city, where formerly stood the Baths of Julian.
We likewise saw a very fine Palace belonging to the
Sultana Esma, situated towards the South and commanding
a most beautiful prospect.

I observed on our way a vast number of granites
scattered here and there, half buried in the ground,
and some of them serving as corner stones to the
streets. We finished our course by taking a slight view
of the Slave-market, where both men and women
are exposed to public sale : and thanks to the Jews and
pirates, this commodity is most abundant at Constan-
tinople. The Turks come here to purchase men,
women and children, as they happen to be in want of
them. I saw a beautiful young Georgian bargained for,
and examined by several connoisseurs, and owing to the
very extravagant demand of her owner, she was some
time before she could get a purchaser, though the poor
girl did everything in her power to engage notice and
command attention, thinking, no doubt, any kind of
slavery preferable to the horrid idea of being thus daily
exposed to public view, and belonging to a cruel and
avaricious dealer in human flesh. The buying and selling

K

I30 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

of slaves form a considerable branch of commerce : nor do
the ladies of the first distinction among the Turks think it
beneath their notice. They often purchase pretty little
girls, whom they educate with the greatest care and
fondness, and engage masters to instruct them in music,
dancing and singing. They bestow so much care in
perfecting them in all external accomplishments, and
particularly in the art of attracting men, and inspiring
violent passions, that it is not uncommon to see young
women thus educated rise from the humble sphere in
which fortune had placed them to a more elevated station,
and become the favourites, and often the wives, of men of
the first rank and consequence.

December the li^h.

We began our excursion this morning by taking a
view of a kiosk called Kirdeb Kioski, which is a kind of
state prison, in which the viziers are confined till the time
of their exile. Near it we saw another fine building,
which was a House of Justice : and passed an immense
iron gate commanding a subterranean passage extending
under the city as far as the Mosque of St. Sophia. I was
also shewn here some remains of brick-work in the wall
of the Seraglio, said to have formed a part of the ancient
Church of our Saviour.

As we were in the neighbourhood, we paid a visit to
the coffee manufactory called Belick Jaamizi, where all
the coffee consumed in Constantinople is burnt and
ground. More than three hundred persons are employed
in it, and near four thousand pounds of coffee are daily
;sold. This may appear immense to persons who do not
know, or consider, that the Turks are accustomed to
drink coffee, perhaps, a dozen times in the day ; as it is,
the quantity appears rather small in proportion to the

CONSTANTINE THE GREAT. 131

daily consumption ; for the common people here, of the
lowest order, live on coffee as the poor in Ireland do on
potatoes. No person ever thinks of stirring out till he
has first drank his coffee. In the poorest habitation you
enter, a cup of coffee is offered you ; nor are you suffered
to drink it alone, as the owner of the house is sure to
pledge you, though he may have already done the same
with a dozen prior visitors. This, together with the
offer of a pipe, is the most common way of shewing
their hospitality : if you refuse either, you are sure of
offending, or at least, of giving them a very unfavourable
opinion of your taste and manners.

We had been previously provided with an order, or
permission to enter all mosques, otherwise we should
have been prevented from examining many beautiful
buildings of this kind ; nor should we have been allowed
to see the place where Constantine the Great was buried.
He is interred in the mosque called Osmanie Dgiamissi.
It is a very fine building, both for its architecture and
internal workmanship. The tomb of the Emperor is
in the dome of the Church ; it is made of one solid block
of porphyry, excavated with the chisel, and close to it
lies the lid. This beautiful piece of marble is nine feet
in length, by three and a half in breadth. Its excava-
tion, which has been the effect of skill and labour, is
three feet deep. The thickness of its sides is four inches.

From this we passed through the street called the
Street of the Burnt Column, so named from the column
that stands at the north end of it, which had suffered
materially by a dreadful fire. It is of porphyry and
surrounded with bars of iron ; its ornament consists of a
beautiful foliage, and it is crowned with a capital of
white marble. On its top stood the statue of the founder

K 2

132 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

of this city. The column itself is formed of several
pieces of porphyry, the parts of which are so admirably
well fitted, and the joints so effectually concealed by
wreaths of laurel, that till lately they could not be
discerned, and it was supposed to be an entire piece
of porphyry ; but time, that great developer of things,
having defaced its ornaments, the joints are now visible in
many places.

The Emperor Manuel Comnenus imagined that by
diminishing the height of this celebrated column, he
would save it from the ravages of time and weather ;
but instead of replacing the statue of Constantine, he
crowned the column with a capital of white marble,
of the Doric order, and had an inscription engraved on it,
which at this time is scarcely legible, importing that this
admirable work had been restored by the very pious
Emperor Comnenus.

We passed afterwards thro' a very long covered street,
in which live all the librarians, book-binders and Turkish
clerks. The latter amount to many thousands, as there
are no printing offices in Constantinople. On expressing
my astonishment at this to Sir R — A — he assured me
that the very attempt to introduce printing would occasion
a rebellion ; as the clerks would consider it as a deprivation
of their only means of support or livelihood ; and they
would be seconded by the mob of Constantinople, which
is a very formidable body when assembled.

The Watch-tower of Constantinople next attracted
our notice. From its top you can almost see the whole
city ; and guards are here continually on the watch, that
they may give the alarm on the first appearance of fire,
which is done in the following manner. Three of them
are always on the look-out, who are provided with drums

MAHOMET'S BATH. 133

and trumpets of different forms and sizes. When all
these are sounded at once, the fire is supposed to be
general over Constantinople ; and every one, let whatever
be his rank or situation, is by these signals ordered to give
assistance. When any of the smaller drums are beaten,
the fire is in some particular quarter ; and when the
trumpets are sounded, it is known to be in Pera. By
this means every one knows to what quarter, and even to
what street he is to direct his assistance on such an occa-
sion. This is a most excellent institution, and without it
the whole city would be consumed a dozen times in the
year, supposing it could be rebuilt as often. During my
short stay of about three months,^ there were about
twenty fires in the city and suburbs.

From this place we directed our steps to Mahomet's
Bath, the most famous in Constantinople. It is built on
the spot where once stood the Cistern of Arcadius and
Modestus ; and the traveller still meets with some frag-
ments of masonry belonging to this once celebrated
basin. There are in many places pieces of broken
pillars, and at the door of the bath two very beautiful
marble capitals. This bath is by far the finest I ever
saw, and the interior of it is finished in the highest style
of eastern elegance.

We afterwards went through a gate built by the
Emperor Theodosius, surrounded on one side with walls
in arcades and flanked by towers. In ascending to the
Mosque of Hassakei,'' or the Mosque of the women, we
were struck with the noble appearance of the pedestal on
which formerly stood the Pillar of Arcadius : there remain
only three feet and an half of the column, which is of verd

^ Obviously an error. He reached Constantinople 14 Dec. (p. 102),
and left 21st Jan. following (p. 155)- ^ ^•'■^ Khasseki Jami'.

134 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

antique :i and the pedestal on which it stands ten feet
in height, is of red granite. We arrived afterwards
at a fountain called Balukli, which is highly venerated by
the superstitious Turks, who often come here to cast
their nativity and consult future events, according to the
form and appearance of a number of little fishes with
which this fountain is well stocked.

The next day at ten o'clock I set out once more for
Constantinople, to see some inscriptions to which I was
induced to direct my attention by the advice of the Abbe
S — , a very sensible, facetious man, and a great antiquary,
who resides in the Ambassador's Palace. In viewing the
walls of Constantinople, traces of antiquity may every-
where be discovered well worth the notice of a traveller.
The ancient walls of Byzantium have in some places,
braved the destructive hand of the Turks as well as of
time. Superb columns are still to be seen, and some
gateways are still existing. Inscriptions, the laboured
monuments of Grecian art, are to be met with in many
places on the walls and gateways, both in the Greek and
Latin languages ; but the greatest part have suffered so
much by time that they are scarcely legible. They in
general announce the different repairs that have been
made by different Emperors. At the end of the wall,
which extends to the west along the sea-shore, are two
towers, on one of which the inscription engraved on two
two long slabs of white marble is still legible, and informs
us that these towers had been repaired under Constantine
and Bassilei \sic\? You then pass the Gate Top-Capoussi,^
or Gate of Cannon, so called from Mahomet II. having

1 Verde antico — the green breccia used for ornamental sculpture by the
ancients, sometimes marked with small red or black spots.

2 /.f., Constantine IX. and Basil II., who reigned together from a.d.
969 to 1025. ' Kapusi.

CASTLE OF THE SEVEN TOWERS. 135

pointed his artillery against it. It was in that attack the
unfortunate Constantine Paleologus lost both the empire
and his life. The ruins of the Palace of Constantine the
Great are still to be seen.

The remains of the Tower of Belisarius, who lived to
experience Justinian's ingratitude, are almost entirely
demolished.

We were not permitted to enter the Castle of the
Seven Towers ; nor did we venture to approach very
near, as our janissary apprehended that, being Christians,
we might be fired upon from some of the windows. The
castle is flanked by seven towers, from which it takes its
name, and is surrounded by a very high wall. Two of
the towers are of white marble. The treasures of the
empire were formerly deposited here ; but it is now used
as a place of confinement for state prisoners, and particu-
larly for the foreign ministers whose Court is at war with
the Porte. While I was at Constantinople, the Russian
Ambassador was confined here ; but the Turks allowed
him one thousand pounds per month during the time he
was deprived of his liberty. I beg leave, for the infor-
mation of my younger class of readers, to mention here
that the Mahometan era takes its date from the time
Mahomet fled from Mecca to Medina, on account of the
persecutions he experienced from the Government of that
city. This is called hegira, which signifies " flight," and
commenced on Friday, July the sixteenth. Anno Domini
622, the day on which he effected his escape and began
to preach his doctrines and propagate his religion. On
that day commences the first of their year, which con-
sists of 354 days, and Muharrem, which answers to our
July, is their first month.

The ceremonies of the Ramaden, month of March,

136 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

when the Turkish Lent begins, are performed in the
following manner.

As soon as the first moon of that month is perceived,
information of it is immediately given to the cadi or
whatever judge resides in each place. He immediately
passes an act in his court for the commencement of the
Fast. In garrison towns the people are acquainted of it
by the firing of guns. Their mode of observing this fast
is neither to eat, drink or smoke from sunrise till after
sunset ; so that during that month they usually turn day
into night and night into day. Pregnant women, inva-
lids and travellers, or the military when encamped in time
of war, are not compelled to a rigid observance of this
fast ; but they are expected to perform it as soon as these
legal impediments are removed. Having accomplished
half of it, should these impediments again occur, so as to
cause a second interruption of the fast, whatever number
of days were wanting of the appointed term, they are
afterwards obliged to complete. But these obligations
are not incumbent on children till they have entered into
their eleventh year.

Previous to this fast, it is a principle invariably ob-
served, that all private enmities should subside. When
two persons meet, between whom some animosity has
subsisted, they both immediately manifest their inclination
to forgive and forget what is past, by a mutual embrace.

The ancient monastery of St. John next attracted our
attention. There only remain of this ancient building
one range of columns, of the aisle of the church, a Cistern
supported by twenty-four columns, and a beautiful bath,
which, as I have been informed, is solely consecrated to
the use of the fair sex. It is forbidden, under pain of
death, to pry into this sanctuary. But I prevailed on a

A BATH FOR THE LADIES. 137

Grecian beauty of fashion, with whom I had formed an
acquaintance during my stay here, to give me the follow-
ing particulars.

The baths for the ladies are constructed in the same
manner as those for men. When a lady intends to go to
the bath, an indulgence which a husband of a certain
rank and fortune who has these conveniences in his own
house seldom will grant, she covers herself with a double
veil and is always accompanied by a female slave. As
soon as they arrive they throw off their whole apparel,
and in the simple and, it is to be hoped, the innocent
attire of nature they pass three or four hours in various
amusements. They are sometimes two hundred in
number, some in the bath, others negligently lying on
couches, while their young and beautiful slaves, disen-
cumbered like their mistresses of all artificial covering,
perfume and plait their hair. The news of the town and
the daily petty occurrences, as may easily be imagined,
furnish ample materials for mirth and conjectures of
various kinds. This is a real relaxation for these poor
women, who are deprived of all rational amusements, and
are continually kept in a state of dependence and slavery.
They laugh, sing and dance, and sometimes form plans of
future pleasures and happiness, in the execution of which
the Turkish ladies, in spite of their walls, slaves, matrons,
eunuchs and mutes, are much more expert than our
European women of fashion — as if it were the happy
provision of human nature, that our spirit of intrigue
should increase in proportion to the danger and difficulties
we meet with in obtaining the enjoyment of a dear and
beloved object.

I was very a propos diverted from these philosophical
reflections, which otherwise might have carried me to

138 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

an elaborate treatise on the subject, by Pauolo rushing
into my apartment, to inform me that a spectacle of a
most striking nature was to be seen — the Grand Signior's
going to the chase — nor was I disappointed in my
expectation, for the scene was very grand. The march
began with four thousand janissaries on foot, in two
lines, and armed with sticks only. They were followed
by three hundred chiaour or carriers of the sublime
commands, covered with gold and silver stuffs, and
mounted on beautiful horses richly caparisoned. Next
came fifteen horses for the use of the Grand Signior,
led in hand and preceded by two hundred officers of
the court in their respective gala dresses. The Grand
Signior immediately followed, mounted on a beautiful
Arabian, covered with gold brocade spangled with
pearls and diamonds. He was surrounded by five hundred
soulaces, body-guards. The viziers, grandees of the court,
and first officers of the Seraglio marched in the rear.

We followed him into the fields, where he was only
attended by his principal officers and two hundred
falconers, each carrying a falcon in his hand. In a
moment the plain was covered with these birds. I was
sorry that I could not follow the party, for the sport
seemed really delightful ; and this is the chase which
the Turks prefer to all others. Being engaged to dine
at the French Ambassador's, the Count De C — } where
there was to be a ball in the evening, I took my leave
of the Grand Signior with reluctance.

I had this day, also, for the first time, to try on my

Turkish dress, which I had got made preparatory to

my voyage to Syria, and I found myself so much at my

ease in it that I could not be prevailed on to leave it

^ Choiseul-GouiEer.

A DANGEROUS ILLNESS. 139

oiF. I therefore went, dressed like an Arab, to Monsieur
De Ch — , and prevailed on my friends to do the same.
The whole company was in a high flow of spirits, and
my Jerusalem expedition was the general topic of
conversation, as it was my intention to set off on the
Monday following. His Excellency asked me if it was
a fact that I had a considerable wager depending on it.
I answered in the affirmative. The ladies were curious
to know the amount of the sum, some pretending it
to be fifteen or twenty, others thirty thousand pounds.
As I had good reasons for not making it known that
I had such a large sum depending on it, I evaded
answering their questions. In the evening the company
assembled to the number of one hundred persons ; and
as there were more ladies than gentlemen, I was induced
to dance, in spite of my Arabian dress ; and during the
dance, which was English, I am convinced that my figure
and movements were truly awkward and ridiculous.

My departure from Constantinople was delayed by
a very dangerous illness, which I caught by going on
a hunting party, when the intense cold of the morning
and the heat of the meridian sun, together with the
fatigue of walking for several days in the snow, brought
on a fever of the most malignant kind, which left no
hopes of my recovery to my friends or physicians. 1 My
strong constitution resisted the violence of the disorder,
and notwithstanding a severe relapse, occasioned by my
own imprudence, I was sufficiently recovered in the
course of a month to be able to proceed on my
journey.

But before I leave this city, may I be permitted to
give a short sketch of some of the prevailing customs,

^ See Appendix, extract from Moore's Journal.

I40 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

manners, dress and religion of the Turks, such as they
appeared to me from my own observations ?

The Turks of Europe and those of Asia are not alike.
The former are valiant, industrious and laborious ; the
latter idle, cowardly, and effeminate, totally ignorant of
the arts and sciences. Hypocrisy is their distinguishing
characteristic ; they are avaricious in the extreme ; but
ostentatious, and so incontinent that their seraglio cannot
satisfy their libidinous passions. Practices the most
abominable, as well as the most unnatural, are added to the
long catalogue of Turkish sensual gratifications. * * *
Their avarice does not stop at any [sic] the most criminal
means of acquiring riches, and yet they are equally
prodigal of that ill-gotten wealth in purchasing dress and
procuring sensual enjoyments. They are in general
about the middle stature ; their features are regular and
expressive ; their eyes and hair black. But owing to
their manner of living they scarcely retain any traces
of beauty after they have passed the prime of youth.

The inhabitants of Turkey are a mixture of different
nations. No less than seventy-two different denomina-
tions of people, nations, religions, and sects are to be
found among them, such as natural Turks, Arabs,
Tartars, Moors of Africa, Wandering Tribes, Jews and
Christians of all denominations.

The dress of the men consists of trousers, a long shirt
cut in the same manner as those of the European ladies ;
a doliman, or sort of robe, which reaches to their ankles,
has short and narrow sleeves, and is fastened by a girdle,
which is of the greatest use to the Turks, as they carry
their handkerchief, dagger and pistols in it, and place in
its folds their money, tobacco and papers. Over the
doliman they wear a larger robe, with long and wide

TURKISH DRESS. 141

sleeves : this is called feredge. It is made of fine stuffs
for summer, and in winter is lined with furs. They put
on cloth stockings over their leather socks, in the form
of buskins. Their shoes, called babouches, resemble
slippers. Their head-dress is very ample ; no less stuff
being used in making their turbans than their robes,
which renders them extremely heavy.

It is by the size and shape of the turban every man's
rank and occupation is known. The variety of them is
great, as the distinctions are so numerous. The emirs
are supposed to be descended from the Prophet, and are
always permitted to wear the green turban. I have
[been] told that thirty yards of muslin are frequently
used in this part of their dress.

The Rayacks wear the kalpac instead of the turban ;
it is made of lambskin of a white, black or grey colour,
and is not near so becoming as the turban. The Turks
are very particular in these distinctions of dress ; and
should a Christian or Jew venture to appear in a green
turban, he would be torn to pieces. In Turkey, as well
as throughout all parts of Greece, smoking is a prevailing
habit in both sexes. By the length and beauty of the
pipe you may judge the rank of the smoker. The
mouthpiece is usually made of polished amber, the stem
of jessamine, covered with scarlet or green cloth, richly
embroidered ; the bowl is made of red clay, beautifully
gilt. They mix with their tobacco, musk, aloes-wood,
frankincense, etc., etc. This they manufacture with a
white gum into small lozenges, one of which is put with
the tobacco into the pipe. This composition improves
the tobacco and diffuses a fragrance thro' the room.
These lozenges are said to possess other virtues, but I
never experienced any. There is another sort made in

142 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

the Seraglio at Constantinople, which the grandees eat
as well as smoke. These are very costly and used only
in their harams, where it has other effects besides that
of improving their tobacco.

The women are, in general, fat and lusty. Their
dress resembles that of the man, except in its tightness,
by which they endeavour to improve their shape. A
gold or silver buckle, set in precious stones, fastens their
girdle. Their drawers are of an extraordinary fulness.
They wear Morocco slippers, and a little iron plate, like
a crescent, forms the heel of their little boots, which
they put on to walk. They have a kind of corslet under
their robe, which leaves their neck uncovered, or merely
veiled with a gauze. Diamonds form their principal
riches ; they have bracelets of them ; aigrets, ear-rings,
necklaces, watches, snuff-boxes, and pin-cases of different
sizes, to a very great value : nor is the propriety of
wearing or possessing these jewels ever disputed with the
women, in whatever circumstances their husbands may
find themselves. When they walk out, they wrap them-
selves up in another long robe.

The dress of a woman of quality, tho' never seen in
public, is far more costly than those worn in Europe.
They wear a profusion of pearls, diamonds and other
precious stones, with the richest stuffs and furs the most
costly. That part of their dress next their skin is of the
most extravagant price. .

To sing in their houses is considered a mark of ill-
breeding, but to fall asleep in company incurs no such
imputation.

Their bath is the most fashionable place ot amuse-
ment, and it is considered as high a compliment to take
your friend there as it would be in London to accompany

LADIES' DIVERSIONS. 143

her to the Opera. Their carriages scarcely deserve the
name, being Httle better than carts. They are not on
springs, and are closely shut up.

All the ladies in Turkey, of whatever religion they
may be, keep themselves constantly veiled : which led
an ill-natured cynic to make this observation, " that in
Turkey alone vice is not barefaced." A large triangular
handkerchief constitutes their veil ; it covers the whole
face, and the ends are tied behind ; so that nothing of
their face is to be seen but the eyes and the tip of the
nose. They usually paint their nails and eyebrows with
a plant called kene^ which gives them a yellowish-red
colour. They sometimes paint the hands and feet, de-
scribing thereon flowers, etc. They are great coquettes,
and possess in a superior degree the art of deceiving their
husbands and lovers. For this reason they are not
allowed to walk out often, and are obliged to remain
confined at home, passing the tedious hours in embroider-
ing or conversing with their female attendants. The
ladies of some Bashaws who are absent may be excepted
from this restriction, as they are generally very fond of
strangers ; but such intrigues are not always carried on
without danger. They are generally commenced at the
Bezistan, where the jewellers, silversmiths and merchants
keep their shops. When a lady meets a gentleman to
whom she wishes to disclose her partiality, she gives him
a gentle push with her elbow. If a lover wishes to
insinuate himself into the good graces of a mistress, he
approaches her window and indicates his passion by
striking to his breast.

Jewish women are very expert in the art of favouring
the Turkish ladies in their amours. They introduce into

' i.e.. Henna.

144 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

their apartments beautiful young men, under the disguise
of female slaves, carrying various kinds of merchandize.
Grecian and Armenian ladies enjoy more liberty ; yet
they do not often go out. I was told that a young man,
a violet-soap merchant, had so turned the heads of all
the ladies at Constantinople that the Grand Signior was
entreated by several Bashaws to send him into exile.
Every man of wit, talents, or an agreeable figure, is sure to
incur the displeasure and hatred of all the married part ot
the male community. In the country I have seen women
bathing in a stream, who took no care to conceal themselves
on perceiving that we were Christians. Our janissaries,
however, advised us to act the part of Joseph ; else in
case of a surprise, we might be accused of a capital
crime : and, to my shame, I must confess that it was
with much reluctance I followed so perfect an example.

The manner of salutation among the Turks is to lay
the right hand on the heart and make a small inclination.
If you approach a man of consequence, that is to say,
a very rich man, or a man holding a place under the
government — for in Turkey, as is the case in many other
places, a man meets with outward respect in proportion to
his reputed riches, or the importance of his office — you
take the end of his robe and kiss it with apparent respect.
It would be an insult to take off your turban to anyone.

Their common nourishment consists of mutton, rice,
peas and cucumbers. After their repast, they drink
either water or whey. The sherbet, composed of lemon-
juice, cherries and other fruits is reserved for the table
of the affluent. They are not so abstemious at their
feasts, and seldom leave the festive board before they
are intoxicated with narcotic draughts. They do not
often eat at each others' houses ; and pay but few

TURKISH DIVERSIONS. 145

ceremonial visits. The ladies are never admitted into
company. The men, when together, devote the greatest
part of their time to smoking. The master of the
house himself presents to each of his guests a lighted
pipe : perfumes are afterwards introduced, with coffee
and sherbet. The company wash their hands in rose-
water and dry them in the smoke of perfumes. The
Turks are seen smoking everywhere, even in the streets
and public walks.

Their only amusements are, to draw the bow, to go to
the chase with falcons, and to play at chess, but 'tis
considered a great sin to play for money. I once saw a
young Turk launching a falcon against a wild duck, which
immediately plunged into the water : the falcon followed
it on the surface of the water, beating its wings whenever
it lost sight of its prey. Another Turk, thinking that one
falcon was not sufficient, sent his own to its assistance.
This excited such a jealousy between the two birds that
instead of offering mutual assistance they rushed furiously
against each other, and had they not been separated the
scuffle would have ended in the death of one or the
other.

They likewise amuse themselves with equestrian
exercises, for which purpose they often assemble at the
Hippodrome, the large square which I have already
noticed. There they separate in two bands and range
themselves at the extremities. At each signal two riders
armed with long lances start, and, rushing forward with
the utmost violence, meet in their mid-career and parry
with much skill the blows they aim at each other. I have
seen several of them leap on and off their horses with as
much adroitness as those at Astley's. Quoits also, and
wrestling, constitute part of their diversions.

L

146 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

They are fond of cultivating flowers, particularly
tulips. The highest compliment a Turk can pay you is
to send you one of his tulips as a present. They have
even instituted a festival in honour of this flower.

They have made some proficiency in the mechanical
arts in general, and have manufactories of silk and cotton.
Their watchmakers are all Armenians, Jews or Franks.
They begin to think the Koran is not the only good book
in the world, for they now apply themselves a little to
history, and are very fond of absurd tales related of their
own people. I had the curiosity to have the history
of an inn-keeper of Constantinople translated. Love
filled up two-thirds of this whimsical composition. He
had been a pirate in his youth, and enriched himself by
the capture of several Maltese vessels. His battles and
victories over both sexes had rendered him famous. He
then turned physician, and his skill in that profession
procured him the honour and advantage of being employed
in the Seraglio at Ispahan. He was afterwards sold as a
slave, and in that state filled the office of steward and inn-
keeper. He mentions the various love-letters he wrote.
A Turkish billet-doux is both simple and ingenious, of which
the Turkish ladies often avail themselves, as they can
without much danger of discovery communicate their
wishes, and carry on their intrigues, by means of this
species of hieroglyphics, in which they use neither pen,
ink or paper ; but put into a purse bits of straw, a few
grains of wheat, some salt, a bit of wood, a bit of cord, a
grape-stone, or the like trifles, each of which has its
separate signification, and this composition answers all the
purposes of our best-written love-letters.

I took a copy of one of these curious letters, which I
shall transcribe.

A TURKISH BILLET-DOUX. 147

He sent, in a purse, a grape-stone, a straw, a jonquil,
a match, some paper, and gold thread, which have the
following signification : —

The grape-stone..

uzum

.. My eyes.

The straw

hazir

. . Suffer that I be your slave.

The jonquil

pull

Be sensible to my love.

The match

gizo

.. I burn, I burn, my flame consumes me.

The paper

kileal

My senses are bewildered.

The gold thread..

til

I am dying, come to my relief.

Most of these words are taken from the Arabic, which
is the richest language in the world.

The Turkish ladies affect the most favourable opinion
of their husbands in every respect, so that when they are
not blessed with those fruits of love so much wished for
in the married state, they always ascribe it to a defect in
themselves, and to atone for their supposed sterility they
introduce into their haram the most beautiful young girls
they can procure. A child is generally the issue of this
truly condescending kindness, which is considered legiti-
mate and inherits as if so in reality.

It is not more strange than true that the opulent
eunuchs frequently have women in their seraglios, and
these the most beautiful. These poor creatures become
free on the decease of their patrons, when they make up
for their lost time during their slavery.

The plague is not more dangerous in Turkey than a
fever is in London or Paris. But physicians are not to be
had there as in France or England. The most malignant
kind is said to be generated in Egypt. It is supposed to
be wafted to Constantinople by the winds that prevail for
months together at the summer solstice; and never fails to
take its leave upon the arrival of the autumnal equinox,
when the winds blow strongly from the north. It seems

L2

148 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

to be the general opinion that those who have been once
afflicted with this dreadful disorder are never known to
take it a second time. But this I must, from good
authority, take the Hberty of contradicting. My servant
Pauolo assured me that he had been three times afflicted
with the plague ; and shewed me the marks of its venom,
by the cicatrices on all parts of his body. Persons of a
strong constitution are more liable to take the infection
than those of a delicate frame. The first symptom of this
disorder is a violent headache accompanied with a burning
thirst, which is followed by a weakness and almost total
loss of [? the use of] the limbs, and people in the last
stage of it are seen staggering about the streets as if
violently intoxicated; and tho' it is so universally known
that the disorder can be taken by the touch only, yet so
inconsiderate are the Turks, that they take no precaution
to keep out of the way of persons infected ; nor indeed
would a good Mussulman think himself justifiable in
leaving his house, tho' every individual in it were
infected, such is the force of predestination : no wonder,
then, this disorder should make such ravages among this
barbarous and ignorant race. But how much must the
reader's indignation be kindled, and every sentiment of
pity for such insensate barbarians be suppressed, when he
is told that the very clothes and cushions on which the
afflicted had died are sold the day after in a public place
appointed for that purpose, and immediately worn by the
purchaser, without even the precaution of fumigation or
airing. From all the information I have been able to
collect on this subject, I have no doubt that the plague is
neither more or less than a violent fever, of the malignant
putrid kind, which, if treated at Constantinople as such
disorders are treated in London, would in all probability

THE PLAGUE. 149

be as easily cured. But I have already observed that they
have no physicians among them, nor can they, consistently
with their absurd tenets and doctrine, admit of medical
assistance even in extreme cases. In the Plague of 1785,
the most destructive that has happened this century, no
less than 5,000 died every day. Prayers are never otFered
to the deity to stop its ravages till the mortality arrives to
such a height that only one less than a thousand are carried
out at the same gate to the Burying-ground. It is then
deemed advisable to invoke the Prophet, and the Turks
assemble for this purpose in their Mosques.

Sir Robert A — assured me that during his residence
at Constantinople, for twelve years, he knew but few
instances of Europeans dying of the plague : to their
manner of living in respect to diet, but more especially
to a strict attention to cleanliness, may be ascribed their
escaping this dreadful disorder.

During the time the plague is thought to rage, which
is only when two or three hundred persons die daily, the
Franks shut up their houses, and all intercourse outward
is at an end till such time as the disorder ceases.

There are persons who for a fixed salary attend the
palaces of the ministers and respectable merchants' houses,
and furnish them with provisions of all kinds in the
following manner. A large tub or cistern of water is
placed under the most convenient window in the house,
into which is plunged all the butcher's-meat that is
intended for the consumption of those within, where,
after it has lain a sufficient time to wash away any
infection it may have caught, a bell is rung by the
caterer, when a basket is suspended from the window and
the provisions are drawn up, by which means all danger
is avoided.

150 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

The police of Constantinople is very vigilant. The
shops must be shut with the setting sun, and the patrols,
during the night, stop every person they meet in the
street.

When a Vizier, Bashaw, or great officer of the empire
is doomed to die, the Emperor sends him a cord by one of
his mutes, and the criminal has the privilege of being his
own executioner. Private individuals do not enjoy such
an enviable prerogative : they are either hanged or
empaled alive : the latter is one of the most cruel
tortures. The criminal is stript naked, and laid on the
ground. The executioner then opens the lower part of
his body with a razor and by repeated strokes drives a
sharp pointed stake, eight feet long and very thick, into
the lacerated passage till it comes out at the extremity of
the shoulder. The sufferer is then set upright, his hands
are tied to the stake, and the mob are suffered to load
him with abuse and execrations.

When the Grand Signior appears in public, if any
subject has a complaint to make, he places a lighted
flambeau, or some burning coals in an earthen pot, on his
head, and thus presents himself to the Emperor, who is
obliged to hear his petition.

This prince in summer and winter dines at ten in the
morning, and sups at six in the afternoon. He sits cross-
legged on cushions, a napkin is placed on his knees, and
another on his left arm, for the purpose of wiping his
hands. A piece of morocco serves him for a table, on
which are placed three or four different sorts of excellent
new bread, quite warm, suitable to the general taste of
the Turks. He uses neither knives or forks, and such is
the plainness and simplicity of the sideboard that two
wooden spoons compose the whole apparatus of the table.

TURKISH HOUSES. 151

one for the soup and the other for the syrups, for by the
laws of his Prophet he is not allowed to use any other at
his meals. He seldom drinks more than once at each
repast, and he has always before him a number of mutes
and dwarfs, who endeavour to amuse him by their
buffooneries.

The Turks shew their taste for magnificence in their
public buildings only. Their houses are very simple, and
are but two stories high. It is customary to have some
passages selected from the Koran written on the doors
and windows. In the yard of every house stands a little
fountain, surrounded with verdure. The staircase is a
kind of ladder, with a roof over it. The furniture of
their rooms consists of mats and carpets along the walls,
with large sofas instead of chairs. They always sit cross-
legged leaning on cushions. No beds are to be seen,
being put up into presses constructed for the purpose.
When the Turks lie down they put on a small turban
instead of a night-cap. They always keep a lamp
burning in their bed-room, and sometimes two heated
stoves, one on each side. If they awake during the
night, they order coffee to be brought, smoke a pipe, and
eat some pastry. The house of a nobleman generally
occupies a large space of ground, and is surrounded by very
high walls. The apartments of the women are secured
by double doors and guarded by eunuchs or matrons.
The ceilings are either gilt or painted, and the floor is of
marble or china.

When a Turk wishes to marry he sends to the
parents of the intended bride, to demand their conditions.
If they agree, they join hands and the bargain is con-
cluded. This ceremony is finished by a prayer from the
Koran. Afterwards the bride, covered with a red veil, is

152 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

led to her spouse, who for that evening is obUged to dis-
charge the oiEce of chambermaid and put her to bed.
It is usual on these occasions for the lady to have the
strings of her dress tied with double knots, which the
impatient lover is eager to loose, and by that means time
is given to the young woman to say her prayers ; some-
times to laugh at the awkwardness and precipitate
impatience of her lover, and to make serious reflections
or entertain fantastic notions of the new state of life into
which she is just going to enter. A Turk is allowed to
marry four wives, and keep as many concubines as his
circumstances will allow. A wife has a right to institute
an action in several cases, particularly if he is not obser-
vant of his conjugal duties, a tribute which is commonly
fixed on Thursday evening or Friday morning, the time of
the week usually consecrated to this purpose.

Their interments do not materially differ from ours.
The loud lamentations of the women is the principal
ceremony at the death of a Turk, which they continue
till the corpse is laid under ground. The men carry the
bier on their shoulders, and the women scatter flowers on
the tomb every Monday and Friday, and with much
importunity inquire of the dead why he chose to die !
They wear black for mourning, and leave off their jewels.

The janissaries amount to one hundred thousand.
They sometimes render themselves formidable to the
nation, and even to the Emperor himself. Five thousand
of them mount guard every day at the Palace. The
Emperor orders provisions to be distributed among them.
If they are dissatisfied, they shew it on that occasion by
overturning the dishes with their feet, in which case
every attempt is made to pacify them. Their first insti-
tution was under Morad 2nd, and [? they] were composed

JANISSARIES. 153

of young Bulgarians and Macedonians, sent in tribute to
Constantinople. They were originally called hadgini,
which in the Turkish language signifies " strangers ; "
afterwards janissaries or " new soldiers." Most of them
have some trade, are allowed many privileges and exempt
from duties to which the rest of the army are subject.
Corporal punishment is not inflicted on them where death
is not merited. In such cases they are allowed the
privilege of being strangled, whilst others for similar
offences are empaled or decapitated.

The janissaries are looked upon as the finest troops of
the empire, and are styled infantry ; yet those who are
sufficiently wealthy to purchase horses, are allowed to do
so, and are therefore a confused body of horse and foot
without order or discipline. Their cavalry is divided
into twenty legions, and are totally ignorant of tactics.
They are commanded by the chief of the artillery. Their
cannon are enormously heavy, and are generally drawn by
buffaloes.

There are many corps of volunteers, who choose their
own officers. Their sole motive for embodying them-
selves arises from the hope of plunder. They receive no
pay till they arrive at their quarters ; and to defray the
expenses of their journey they generally plunder the
traveller. On their arrival at the camp, they receive the
same pay as the janissaries.

They get no clothing from government, and there-
fore have no kind of uniform, so that every individual
dresses as he pleases.

The arms of the wealthy are highly ornamented with
silver. They consist of a gun slung over the shoulder ; a
long case of pistols which they carry under a belt ; like-
wise a dagger and sabre, the " cutter," as sharp as a razor

154 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

and very crooked. They charge with great impetuosity,
the sabre in the form of tierce over the head, and aim at
the throat of their enemy ; but they are soon broke by
the German Horse, owing to their steady coolness and
discipline.

The army is divided into three encampments, none of
which they ever take the precaution or advantage of
entrenching. They pitch their tents, without any order,
near the most convenient watering place. In the centre
is the Grand Vizier's camp. On the right the Agha's,
who is second in command ; and on the left is the artillery.
Their tents are very magnificent. I was told that in the
late war the Grand Vizier's cost no less a sum than
1 00,000 piastres. A retreat is always followed by a total
defeat, as they never take any steps to secure themselves
from surprise. On these occasions they grow quite out-
rageous, and frequently rob and murder each other. In
one of their campaigns they attacked the Grand Vizier's
tent, which contained the military chest, in which much
treasure was deposited. They carried it off, and at the
same time destroyed his beautiful pavilion. So much for
their order and discipline in 1789. Since that period, I
have heard that some considerable improvement has taken
place, and that the present Sultan Selim ' has introduced
French tactics, and employs many engineers, all of whom
are French.

1 I.e., Selim III., 1789— 1807.

CHAPTER VI.

Departure from Constantinople — The Dardanelles — Ancient Troy —
Return to Smyrna — Homer's Cavern — Population o. Smyrna —
Ephesus — The River Meander — Fogia Nova — Scio — Patmos — A
Greeic Seminary — St. John the Evangelist — St. John of Acre —
Nazareth — The Church of the Annunciation — The Governor of
Nazareth.

Everything being ready for my voyage, having
engaged the sloop Constantinople to convey me to Smyrna,
and taken leave of my friends, we went on board, the
2 1 St of January. But we were detained so long by the
custom-house officers, that we were obliged to shew our
letter from the Captain Bashaw and the. Jirman from the
Grand Signior, before we could prevail on those impudent
miscreants to let us depart. As it was calm, Mr. B — ^
first lieutenant of the Pearl, offered us his boats to tow
us out of the harbour, and being extremely impatient to
get to Smyrna, where I expected a great number of
letters, not having received any since I left England, I
accepted his kind offer. We were soon towed beyond
the Seraglio point, when a light breeze springing up, we
set all the sail we could carry and soon found ourselves
in the Sea of Marmora (so called from the island of that
name), through which we had a very tedious navigation.

It was not till the twenty-fourth in the evening that
we anchored off the Castle of the Dardanelles, on the
Asiatic side. The English vice-consul, for whom we
had dispatches from our Ambassador, on hoisting our

' 1st Lieut. George Ball.

156 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

colours, came off to us. He gave us to understand that
we could not possibly procure the necessary clearance
from the Castle before the next day. We were therefore
obliged to submit patiently, though the wind was fair all
that night. About twelve o'clock the next day we got
under way.

The Castle on the Asiatic side appears to the best
advantage in point of strength. The batteries are almost
on a level with the water. The cannon is fixed, and
some of them throw balls of two and three hundred-
weight quite across the Strait. These castles are con-
sidered by the Turks as the chief defence of Constantinople:
nor has this city any other on the side of the Sea of
Marmora. Their batteries may very well answer the
purpose of preventing merchants' ships from sailing up
the Strait before they be visited by the officers of the
customs, as they do not choose to expose themselves to
the dangers of an attack. But, the idea of their obstruct-
ing or preventing the passage of an armed naval force !
In case a fleet were determined to pass, they might do it
very easily without receiving the least injury, according
as the winds and currents favoured them. Or they
might, in a very short time, not only silence the artillery
of the Turks but reduce the castles to a heap of ruins.

We stood this evening with a fair but light wind,
close off the Hellespont, weathered the Cape of the
Janissaries, formerly called Sigeum, and sailed along the
coast of ancient Troy, of whose proud walls and stately
edifices not one stone remains, or vestige to point out to
the curious traveller where this once renowned city stood !
And nothing appears but a few villages scattered along
the coast.

One of these villages is called Ghiam Kioz, or the

RETURN TO SMYRNA. 157

" Village of the Infidels," from its being entirely
inhabited by Greeks, who on account of their working in
the mines belonging to the Grand Signior, are exempted
from the karragio, or capitation tax, which is annually
levied on all the subjects of his dominions. We stood on
with a fair wind, and passed the islands of Lemnos and
Tenedos, and in the evening made the island of Mitylene,
the ancient Lesbos. Here the wind veered round to the
north-east, and the captain persisting in his intention ot
sailing between the island of Mitylene and the continent,
instead of keeping to the westward of it, we lost much
time in fruitless attempts to effect that purpose, so that
we did not make the Gulf of Smyrna before the morning
of the 27th of January.

When we were off the small islands, let Isles Angloises
(for what reason so called, I know not),' the wind quite
died away, and tho' above five leagues from Smyrna,
yet such was our impatience to hear news from England
that we took the boat. Off the castle we fell in with
our old friend the London, Capt. N — ,* with whom I had
sailed to Smyrna. He had waited for us till that morning,
and we felt ourselves severely disappointed on finding
that he could not wait a moment longer for us, though
I offered him five hundred pounds.

We were received in the most friendly manner by
Messrs. Lees,^ and the female part of the family, who
seriously reprimanded us for having made so long a stay at
Constantinople. But my anxiety and mortification can
neither be imagined or described, when, on enquiring for

^ " By Clazomene is a cluster of islets, all once cultivated. . . . One
is called Long Island, and by some the English Island." R. Chandler's
Travels in Ana Minor (in 1764-65), vol. i., loi, 3rd ed., Lond. 1718.

■^ Capt. Neil. ' See antt, p. 71.

158 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

my letters, I was told there were none for me, tho'
three packets had arrived from England since I left
Smyrna. My fortitude was not equal to this severe
disappointment, which brought on a violent fever. My
kind and attentive friend did not leave me one moment
during my illness, but had his bed made on the floor in
my room. In about a fortnight every alarming symptom
of my illness was removed, and with the assistance of a
great deal of bark, and the agreeable company of the
ladies, who did me the favour to come and sit in my
room every evening, I soon recovered my health, strength
and spirits.

As there were at Smyrna several interesting objects,
which I had not an opportunity of viewing before, I
therefore took advantage of the first moments of con-
valescence to perambulate the city and examine several
beautiful buildings, the most remarkable of which is an
immense and majestic Caravansary, which contains a vast
number of apartments very well distributed.

We continued our walk to the ancient Circus or
Stadium, where a kind of portico is still to be seen, under
which, as tradition will have it, the statue of Homer had
been placed. This city claims the honour of having given
birth to the prince of poets, and to this day the very spot
is shewn, on the banks of the Meles, where Critheis his
mother gave him birth, and the cavern where he is
supposed to have retired to compose his immortal
works.

Its inhabitants still amount to one hundred thousand,
sixty thousand of whom are Turks, twenty thousand
Greeks, ten thousand Jews, and the rest Armenians,
or Franks. The latter denomination is applied to
Europeans. They all inhabit the Street of the Franks,

EPHESUS. 159

which much resembles a Christian city, and Hve very
comfortably.

Here are spoken Italian, French, English and Dutch.
All religions are tolerated ; and the different churches,
mosques and temples which present themselves to the
view make a very singular appearance.

Difference of religion does not interrupt the harmony
which subsists among them. Commerce, that leveller
of all ranks and source of all our enjoyments, triumphs
over the despotism of Eastern tyrants, and over the still
more destructive scourge of fanaticism. All their pur-
suits are directed towards amassing, with as little labour
as possible, an easy and competent fortune, and enjoying
all the comforts and conveniences of life that a happy
climate and a pleasant neighbourhood can afford. Thus
the merchants receive all strangers with affability, and
vie with each other in shewing every mark of polite
attention and hospitality. They all have country-houses,
keep dogs and racers, and in short, live in a style of
elegance little inferior to that of an English nobleman.

I did not wish to leave Smyrna before I had visited
Ephesus, about forty miles south of this town, so famous
for its temple of Diana. It is called by the Turks Aja
Saluk. It had likewise been the asylum of St. Paul and
the Virgin Mary, after the death of our Saviour. Pro-
digious heaps of marble, columns, capitals and broken
statues, scattered through a most beautiful and fertile
plain, seem to attest its ancient splendour. It is now a
miserable village, inhabited by thirty or forty Greek
families. The fortress, which is upon an eminence,
seems to have been the work of the Greek emperors.
The Eastern Gate, called the Gate of Persecution, has
still three beautiful basso-relievos. The temple of Diana

i6o WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

had been turned into a church by the primitive
Christians, but nothing now remains of it except the
foundations and five or six marble columns, all of one
entire piece, sixty feet in length and seven in diameter.
Near it, at the foot of the mountain, we saw the Grotto
of the Seven Sleepers, so called because it served as
a refuge for seven knights persecuted by Diocletian.
About four miles further on, we saw the prison of St. Paul,
a small building on an eminence, where four rooms are
still distinguishable.

From hence we had a delightful view of the sur-
rounding plain and the river Meander, whose fantastic
serpentine windings, it is supposed, gave Daedalus the
idea of building his Labyrinth in Crete.

This recalled to my remembrance the beautiful lines
of Ovid.i

" Non secus ac liquidus Phrygiis Maeander in arvis

Ludit, et ambiguo lapsu refluitque fluitque,

Occurrensque sibi Venturas aspicit undas ;

Et nunc ad fontes, nunc ad mare versus apertum,

Incertas exercet aquas. Ita Daedalus implet

Innumeras errore vias ; vixque ipse reverti

Ad limen potuit, tanta est fallacia tecti.'*

Our departure from Smyrna was fixed for the third ot
February. The captain of the Heureuse Marie was to
send his boat for us at midnight. I could not help
expressing and really feeling much regret at being
obliged to make so short a stay with Messrs. L — and
their worthy family, from whom I experienced every
kindness and attention that sincere friendship could
dictate. After supper we went on board, and by day-
break found ourselves only off the Castle of Smyrna,
as the wind had been contrary all night ; nor did we
^ Metamorphoseon, lib. viii., 162.

FOGIA NOVA. i6i

clear the bay, which is only fifteen leagues in length,
till the evening of the fifth, and during the time we were
obliged to come twice to an anchor and go on shore,
where we found much diversion in shooting swans ; of
which thousands are to be seen on the northern side of
this gulf

Towards evening we were forced into the harbour
of Fogia^ Nova, at the mouth of the Gulf of Smyrna.
Here [we] were detained by a storm until the ninth.
On anchoring here we were the only ship in the
harbour, but before the next morning sixteen sail more
were driven in by the violence of a southerly gale. This
town was formerly called Phocia [Phokaia] ; it was
destroyed last year by the Russians, and exhibits now
a mere heap of ruins, with only a few scattered houses
remaining. The harbour has sufficient water to float
the largest ship of the line ; but the entrance is very
narrow. On the south side stands a Castle which had
been likewise destroyed by the enemy, but the Turks,
considering it of much importance, have since rebuilt it.

During our stay here we went out every day to
shoot, and though we had no pointers we met with
more partridges in one hour than I had ever seen in any
one day of my life. We also shot some hares, pheasants
and quails.

In returning from one of our shooting parties, we
were accosted by a very respectable looking Mussulman,
who testified a desire of accompanying us on board to
see our ship. As we intended to return on shore after
dinner, we complied with his request. He seemed much
pleased with our attention to him, and highly praised
the flavour of our bottled porter, to which the Turks

^ l.e., Fotcha.

M

1 62 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

in general show no dislike. He approved much of our
English cookery, but when a knife and fork were pre-
sented to him, he appeared a good deal surprised, and
in attempting to use them as we did he betrayed his
awkwardness by evident marks on his mouth and fingers.
He then had recourse to his old method, which he found
the best, and made a pretty good use of those means of
attack which nature has provided ; the only weapons, in
that kind of warfare, used by the first men in the country
and even by the Grand Signior himself.

When dinner was over we offered him some wine,
which he refused ; but he drank off a whole bottle of
rum, and was scarcely satisfied with it. However, as
it was scarce with us, I proposed that we should give
him some lavender-water : having read in de Tott's
Memoirs, that the Turks sometimes drink large quantities
of this violent spirit. A bottle was brought, accord-
ingly, of which he partook very plentifully : and I really
think he would have finished the bottle, if I had not
prevented him, by strongly representing the dangerous
consequences of an immoderate use of such liquids. As
the rum and lavender began to operate, I could not help
giving way to very serious apprehensions ; for when a
Turk gets intoxicated he makes no scruple of killing the
first Greek or giaour he meets, and for this offence he
only receives a slight bastinado. I was glad, however,
that our guest kept himself quiet, and never attempted to
draw his sabre or pistols. We took him on shore and
then left him to take care of himself.

February the qth.
We set sail from this place. - The wind continued
fair till we had wcHthered Cape Callaburne [Kara Burnu],

SCIO AND PATMOS. 163

and made the island of Spelmadore.i when it shifted to
the east. We were, however, enabled to sail along the
coast of Scio, a beautiful and fertile island. By twelve
we were abreast of the town, which is very large and
handsome. Much trade is carried on here, particularly
in cotton and corn. The former article is exported to
Smyrna, for the European markets; and the latter to
Constantinople, for the consumption of that metropolis.
Scio is reckoned the richest island in the Archipelago.

For two successive days we experienced contrary
winds, and it was with the greatest difficulty we could
keep the sea. By the eleventh we were off the island
of Nicaria, and in the evening we made the islands of
Samos and Fournis.'' At ten at night, the gale increased
to a such a degree that the captain thought it prudent to
run for the island of Patmos. Scarcely had we made the
harbour when it blew such a hurricane as would
probably have proved fatal had we kept at sea, encircled
as we should have been by land on every side. We
therefore congratulated each other on being snug in
a good harbour, and among the prettiest women of the
Archipelago. This is a most beautiful little harbour, in
the shape of a horse-shoe and sheltered against every wind.

We walked up to the town, which is built on the
highest part of the island, about a mile from the beach.
Here, at the door of a mean-looking house, I saw the
most beautiful woman I ever set my eyes on, and as her
husband was a silversmith we had frequent opportunities,
under various pretences, of seeing and admiring this
exquisitely-finished piece of nature's handywork.

I bought several gold and silver medals of the
husband, and finding that the mother-in-law had a

' /.;., Spalmatori (ancient CEnoussae). ' /.;., Corsca (Phurni).

M 2

1 64 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

particular liking for them, we each of us were favoured
with an opportunity of mutual gratification ; I in
complying with my spirit of generosity, and she in
testifying her sense of gratitude.

We went to see a kind of seminary which is estab-
lished here. It is the only college but one in the
Archipelago or the Levant ; and to this college or
university all the Grecian youths are sent for their
education ! What a difference between this and the
School of Athens ! Here nothing is acquired but
bigotry and effeminacy. Nothing now remains of the
manly virtues of ancient heroes, so energetically recorded
by cotemporary authors, and justly admired by succeeding
generations. The present inhabitants are only distin-
guished for meanness, poverty and ignorance.

One of the youths educated here formed an acquain-
tance with Pauolo, for the purpose of procuring some
bread from me, as the poor lad was nearly starving. I
ordered him five hundred biscuits, which he said would
last him during his stay in the island, as he intended to
return to Cyprus, his own country, as soon as he had
finished his studies.

Near this college is a cavern in the rock, now con-
verted into a chapel. You are told that St. John wrote
his gospel in this cave ; and you are shown the place
where he slept ; the iron hooks driven into the roof,
which the superstitious visitors, who in general frequent
this place, believe to be really those from which the bed
of this man had been suspended.

We afterwards ascended the hill and paid our respects
to the Superior of the Convent of St. John, which, as we
were informed by the friars, had been founded by St.
John the Evangelist. There is a very ancient chapel

ST. JOHN THE EVANGELIST. 165

within the cloister, in which the saint is buried. They
shewed us the coffin which contains his bones. It is
placed in one of the niches of the wall, and covered with
embroidered purple velvet, fastened on with many silver
clasps. This piece of finery was very carefully locked,
and I was informed that on particular festivals the coffin
was opened and mass celebrated in the chapel in honour
of St. John.

I wished to have the coffin opened, to satisfy my
doubts whether bones could remain after so many ages.
But my curiosity could not be gratified without a liberal
donation on my part. I therefore opened my purse-
strings, and a lusty friar opened the coffin ; but not till
after he had sprinkled a proper quantity of holy water,
crossed himself several times, and prayed upwards of
twenty minutes. He then presented to my view a most
disgusting spectacle : but most of the bystanders, after
uttering a short prayer, kissed these precious relics with
the greatest fervour. I was fully convinced that these
could not be the bones of St. John, but the skeleton of
some other person, placed there as his representative,
for on some parts of the head, the hair was still remaining.
There is no doubt, however, but that this is the spot
where St. John wrote his gospel, and that he died in this
island.

Both the monastery and chapel are very old. They
were repaired by Constantine the Great, in the begin-
ning of his reign. There are some very ancient paint-
ings in the chapel, which I suppose were done by a
Russian artist, as they appear to have the characteristics
of those described by Mr. Cox in his Travels, who
asserts that painting was first attempted in Russia, and
from thence brought into Italy. They are finished on

1 66 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

a yellow ground, are gilt, and the outlines very strong
and prominent.

The inhabitants of this little island are all Greeks.
There is not one Turk resident in Patmos.

The Capitan Bashaw keeps one of his vessels stationed
here, for the purpose of collecting the carragio} or capita-
tion tax. The taxes laid on the inhabitants are really in-
tolerable, as every individual pays nearly one half of what
he possesses. This vessel is also supposed to protect the
island from pirates : but the day before we arrived a vessel
was plundered in the harbour, and other outrages com-
mitted on the inhabitants, without any attempt being
made by the Bashaw's men to prevent them. I was
assured that, when an opportunity offered, those very
protectors turned pirates and plundered with impunity.

We were introduced to a French gentleman who
practised physic.^ We found him truly obliging, and his
politeness and friendly attention contributed much to
render our situation here agreeable during our stay. He
engaged to give us a dance the Sunday following and intro-
duce us to all the prettiest women of this island. To con-
ciliate this useful man's friendship still more, I made him
a present of my medicine-chest, with which he had fallen
in love : and in return I met, at the doctor's dance, the
silversmith's charming wife, dressed out in all her finery.

They have in this island a dance peculiar to themselves,
which I did not admire, as it is wholly destitute of
meaning. The men take each their particular partners,
under the arm, and making a rondeau, they sing as they
pursue this circle, in an uninterrupted rotation, while the
musician remains standing in the middle. This often

^ I.e., the haratch.

^ " A certain Venetian doctor (Giuseppe Gilly)." — Moore's Journal.

ST. JOHN DE ACRE. 167

continues two hours together. They have another extra-
ordinary custom : there is a large hole in the fiddler's
instrument, and as the dance is going on, if a gentleman
wishes to show any particular respect to his fair one, he
drops some money into this opening as he passes the
musician, which is considered as a mark of profound
esteem and admiration. Our complaisant doctor after-
wards favoured us with several other pleasant parties, so
that we could not help feeling some degree of regret
when, on the seventeenth, a propitious gale suggested the
expediency of our departure from this friendly island.

We were but six days on our passage from Patmos to
the coast of Syria. The weather being very rough, we
were obliged to run for the port of St. John De Acre
instead of Jaffa, preferring to travel from Acre to
Jerusalem by land to remaining any longer at the mercy
of the waves. We entered CaifFa Bay and immediately
anchored. This is the winter road for ships trading to
the coast of Syria, and is about three leagues distant from
the town of St. John of Acre, which forms the north-
eastern extremity of this vast bay, whilst Mount Carmel
forms that to the south-west; and immediately at the foot
of this mountain stands the small town of CaifFa Nova,
from which the bay takes its name.

A Moor, who lives here and is employed by the vice-
consul of Acre in visiting the English ships, very politely
offered us his services : we were soon joined by the consul
himself, who very civilly introduced us to his family, by
whom we were most graciously received. As we
approached the town, on the southern side of which there
is a very fine sandy beach, we observed upwards of two
hundred of the Bashaw's soldiers exercising on horse-back,
and throwing the gerite with wonderful dexterity.

1 68 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

A dinner was prepared for us at the consul's. We
did not sit long at table, being desirous to make our
respects to Jedzar Bashaw,' who holds his Court here, and
governs with the most despotic sway. Indeed, we were
told that our waiting on him was a duty indispensable
with regard to our safety ; as providing ourselves with
passports from this powerful Turk would much facilitate
our progress, and protect us from thence to Jerusalem.
We had scarcely dined when a message was brought us
from the Bashaw, intimating his desire to see us at his
Palace, by the vice-consul, who served us as dragoman
on the occasion.

On our arrival at the Palace, we were conducted
thro' several spacious apartments, and thence to a
gallery of immense length, from whence we descended
by a flight of one hundred steps, when we found ourselves
in a delightful garden, laid out with much taste, at the
end of which we perceived the Bashaw seated under a
monstrous magnolia, which with several other ever-
greens was at that time in full blow. As we entered the
garden, he sent part of the attendants that surrounded him
to meet and conduct us to the spot where he chose to give
us an audience. He ordered me to be seated on his right
hand, my fellow traveller on his left, while the humiliating
posture of the vice-consul shocked me. He kneeled
before him, and trembled [in] every limb. I was happy,
however, to find that he was only the British consul's
deputy, at that time on business at Aleppo.

After the usual compliments, we were served with
refreshments of various kinds, differing little from what I
had seen at Constantinople. I did not, however, feel so
much at ease and was much at a loss how to account for

^ In modern times more usually called Jezzar Pasha.

JEDZAR BASHAW. 169

the evident marks of terror in the countenance of the
kneeling consul.

After partaking of fifty different sorts of sweetmeats,
etc., Jedzar began the conversation by asking me if I had
not heard of his great power and warlike exploits ? I told
him I had often heard his name mentioned at Constanti-
nople in terms highly honourable ; and could I then
foresee that I should land at St. John of Acre, I should
have provided myself with letters of introduction to his
highness. He said these were by no means necessary ;
that the stranger had always a protector in him, particu-
larly those of my nation, whom he held in much higher
estimation than those of any other country in Europe.
He continued the conversation by giving me a full account
of his life and adventures, particularly his wars against
the unfortunate Ali Bey, a Calif of Egypt, whom he
conquered and afterwards put to death. Volney is very
accurate in his History of Egypt,^ and relates in a most
affecting manner the misfortunes of this unhappy prince.
But the greatest barbarity exercised by Jedzar, in all his
conquests, happened some years after he had the command
of the district of Acre and Nazareth, when his oppression
and cruelties became so intolerable to the inhabitants that
they were obliged to revolt against the Porte. Jedzar
was ordered by the Sultan to march against the insurgents,
and tho' in the first campaign he was rather worsted,
owing to the number of the malcontents, yet in the second
he so far recovered his loss that, with a force of only
6,000, he defeated 20,000. This battle was fought near
Damascus. The Bashaw of that town was killed by
Jedzar, and 1,200 prisoners taken, consisting of men,

1 Travils through Syria and Egypt, C. F. Volney ; Translated from the
French, Lond. 1787. Reprinted, Dublin, 1796.

170 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

women and children, who were, by his order, sent to
Acre, and there, without distinction of age or sex,
butchered in cold blood. Jedzar freighted three Venetian
vessels and sent the heads of those victims, packed in
boxes, to Constantinople — a most acceptable present to
his Sultan.

Among the women slaughtered on this occasion,
there was one of exquisite beauty : she was only fifteen
years old. The merchants of Acre, more, I fear, to give
the Bashaw a pretext to violate an oath he had taken,
" that all concerned in this rebellion should die," and
that he might add this beautiful girl to his haram, than
from motives of humanity, petitioned him to spare the
life of this unfortunate fair one : but the monster was
relentless. He, however, in order to shew the French
merchants every possible consideration that could not be
construed a violation of his oath, said he would mitigate
her sentence, and instead of having her head cut off by
the hands of the common executioner, he himself would
confer that honour: and accordingly assembled the factory,
intimating his desire that all should attend. None dared
to disobey, and in the presence of them all, he with some
difficulty tied the hands of this beautiful girl behind her
back, and drawing his sabre, with one blow severed the
head from the body.

It was for this bloody business he was raised to the
highest rank among the Turks; and he had the Third
Tail sent him on this occasion, from the Porte. He
likewise assumed the title of Jedzar, which in Arabic
signifies " butcher " ; and surely no title could be more
applicable.

He had, at the time of our audience, upwards of three
hundred men at work in his garden, who all appeared

JEDZAR'S HAMMER. 171

very attentive to what they were doing, and seldom
ventured to raise their eyes from the ground.

One unfortunate fellow, whose crime I could never
learn, happened to displease him. He ordered him
immediately to be brought before him, and looking at
him with eyes inflamed with savage fury, he had him
stripped in our presence, and drawing from behind his
robe a silver hammer of about four pounds weight was
preparing to inflict on the unfortunate victim that punish-
ment I shall now describe, but which I had the heartfelt
satisfaction, thro' my intercession, to have mitigated ;
and a severe bastinadoing expiated his fault. And when
the Bashaw's passion cooled a little, I ventured to express
a desire of knowing the virtues of this tremendous
hammer, and received the following explanation.
When Jedzar does not choose to inflict the punishment
of death on any of his offending slaves, he orders him to
be laid across a bar of wood, with his hands and feet held
to the ground ; he then, with his hammer, strikes the
culprit on the backbone, which immediately brings on a
palsy, that ends only with the death of the wretched
offender, or, if the blow be very violent, destroys him in
a few hours.

While I reflected with indignation on the savage
cruelty of this monster, I was suddenly roused by the
softest music and the footsteps of many females at the
other end of the garden. These were the Bashaw's
women : they were two hundred in number, dressed all
alike in white, and veiled, as usual, from top to toe.
The Bashaw ordered them to walk slowly by him, which
ceremony they performed with the most profound
silence. This he meant as the greatest compliment he
could pay us : but, for my part, I should most willingly

172 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

have dispensed with this treat. My mind was too much
taken up with gloomy reflections on the cruel hammer
scene, and the wretched state of servility to which these
unfortunate women were doomed, to be gratified with
any mark of this Bashaw's favour or complaisance.

I was told by the consul that it was time we should
take our leave ; and considering that he had been a full
hour on his knees, 'tis no wonder he should think so. I
desired he would ask the Bashaw when he would be
ready to receive some presents I had a wish to make him.
He smiled, and appointed that evening. We, therefore,
for the present took our leave. I had not arrived at the
consul's when I received a visit from Jedzar's dragoman,
accompanied by two slaves. The one brought me
a rich furred pelice, the other presented a handsome
pipe and a few pounds of coffee. In return, I waited on
the Bashaw, and presented him with a pair of pistols,
beautifully ornamented in gold and silver. He could not
conceal his admiration of them : they were of the best
workmanship and cost loo guineas. He desired to know
if they were as good as they were handsome. I
answered in the affirmative, and at his desire loaded
them, and having placed a bit of paper, about the size of a
crown piece, at twelve yards' distance, he fired and made
a pretty good shot. But loading the pistols a second time
himself, he put in a double charge of powder, which
hurt his hand very much and he shot wide of the mark.
This he could not account for, and it was with much
difficulty I convinced him that with half the quantity of
gunpowder he would shoot better, which, at his request, I
proved by hitting the mark three times running, at which
he was both pleased and astonished. At length I took my
leave and left him in good humour and highly gratified.

AN EVENING'S ENTERTAINMENT. 173

In the morning I had a most pressing invitation from
a French merchant resident here to spend the evening at
his house. On leaving the Bashaw's, I found this Uberal
Frenchman wfaiting in the street, to conduct us to his
hospitable mansion. I was met at the door by his
Roxalana, as he styled her, who led us into a saloon
furnished a la turque, in the centre of which was
the tendour, covered with a magnificent Persian carpet.
My eyes were dazzled with the assemblage of beauties
that were seated around it. The amiable Roxalana was a
native of Chio and did the honours of her house, in a
manner truly graceful ; and tho' the rest of her female
companions had the advantage [in] point of juvenility, yet
such were her personal and mental accomplishments that
I was not at all surprised to see her distinguished as the
favourite Sultana.

The ladies were twelve in number, and had been
collected with much taste and expense in different parts of
Asia and among the islands. They were all lively and
good-humoured, and spoke a little Italian. Their animated
and expressive manners made up for any deficiency that
may appear from a want of words. The evening was spent
in dancing and playing at blindman's buff, etc. etc. till
supper was announced, which was served up in as elegant
a style and consisted of as great a variety of delicacies as
could be met with at the table of the first gourmand in
Paris. In short, there was nothing wanting to render
this evening's entertainment highly pleasing both to the
gay and serious, so that the thought of retiring to rest
never once broke in upon us till six o'clock in the morning.
I threw myself on a sofa ; but the scenes of the past night
were present to my imagination, and I could not help
exclaiming " O pleasures past, never again to return ! "

174 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

This reflection superinduced others, which entirely pre-
cluded sleep. I arose at eight, and took my leave of this
hospitable bon •vivant, fully determined to pass some time
with him at my return from Jerusalem.

The following day we were detained a considerable
time by those who were to furnish us with mules for
our journey ; and tho' we had saddles of our own they
would not permit us to make use of them : we were
forced to ride on large pack-saddles, without a bridle, and
the only means we had of directing the animals was to
strike them with a stick, sometimes on one side and
sometimes on the other. We had no sooner left the
strand than we discovered that those Turks who were
sent with us as guides were as ignorant as ourselves of
the road to Nazareth.

At eleven, we stopped to breakfast, and on a sudden,
found ourselves surrounded by Arabs, to the number of
twenty, headed by a chief. They immediately sat them-
selves down, and before we had time to look about us,
devoured our breakfast, everyone seizing whatever fell in
his way. This, however, was all the injury they did us,
and when they heard we were going to Nazareth, the
chief offered us one of his men as a guide.

I acknowledge that I dreaded this man's company,
lest he should in the night-time lead us out of our way,
and, assisted by other wanderers, rob and plunder us.
Pauolo soon dispelled my fears, by assuring me that these
were friendly Arabs, and that we had nothing to appre-
hend till we had passed Nazareth. This Arab was to
accompany us as far as that town. As we fell into the
right road, about sunset, we determined to stop at the
first house that should have the hospitality to receive us.

At nine we arrived at a small village called

ARRIVAL AT NAZARETH. 175

Scietamor/ only twenty miles distant from St. John de
Acre.

This neighbourhood is famous for its cotton, which is
esteemed the best^n all Galilee.

We knocked at many doors, but in vain. I could not
restrain my indignation, and almost expressed a wish that
the words of Christ might be fulfilled on this inhospitable
people. After having rambled above an hour, we were
at length admitted into the house of a Greek priest, in
which we took up our lodgings for the night.

Our landlord was married, had a large family and a
small house, containing one room only, where we were to
pass the night. The house could afford nothing better
than some milk and eggs. After our frugal supper, we
spread our mattresses on one side of the fire-place, and our
servants lay at our feet. The cure and his wife were
opposite to us, and the young ladies of the family lay at
some distance. Ludicrous as this scene may appear, it
neither discomposed our gravity or prevented us from
passing a very comfortable night.

At six in the morning we were again on foot ; and
after having thanked our hospitable clergyman, we set
forward on our journey. We arrived at Nazareth about
two, and alighted at the Convent of the Annunciation,
so called because the church is built on the very spot
where the house of the Holy Virgin stood, and where she
was visited by the angel. The country in the environs
of Nazareth is very mountainous and wild. It does not
answer the description given of this memorable place in
the scriptures. The holy fathers of the Convent them-
selves acknowledge that the entire face of the country
must have undergone a considerable change.
1 ? Shefa Amr.

176 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

The Father-superior and the Procurer-general of the
Convent received us in the most friendly and hospitable
manner. We had very good beds and comfortable
rooms ; and every possible attention and respect paid to
us. These gentlemen advised us to dismiss those people
we had brought with us from Acre, together with our
mules ; promising that they would furnish us with good
mules, experienced conductors and trusty guards ; which
their intimacy with the Governor of the town would
enable them to procure.

Dinner being ready we were conducted by those
worthy priests into a great hall, where we found an
excellent repast prepared for us, tho' it was then Lent,
which is most strictly observed by those Friars.

After dinner they conducted us to the Church of the
Annunciation, which fully answered the idea we had formed
of it. St. Helena, the mother of Constantino the Great,
had built a most magnificent temple here, which had
been almost destroyed by the Saracens at different
periods. It was repaired in 1620 by the Fathers of the
Holy Land, who since that time have been constantly
making some improvements to it. The whole convent
is now surrounded by a thick wall, to protect it
against any sudden attack of the Arabs. The church
has three aisles, divided by stone pillars ; and in the
centre is the great altar, dedicated to the angel
Gabriel. Behind it is the choir, and underneath, the
Grotto and Chapel of the Annunciation. The superb
staircase, by which you descend to it, consists of fifteen
steps of the finest marble ; at the foot of which
is the place where the gracious message from heaven,
announcing the birth of a Saviour, was delivered to the
Virgin Mary.

THE GOVERNOR OF NAZARETH. 177

The Altar of the Annunciation is very beautiful ;
being adorned with a variety of fine marbles, well inlaid.
Over the altar is a fine painting, representing the Virgin
Mary, and the angel saluting her. On the whole nothing
can be more beautiful than this little church, in which
all the numberless ceremonies of the greatest Catholic
churches and cathedrals in Europe are strictly observed.

From this church we were conducted to the other
parts of this convent, which are both spacious and
commodious. All the doors are of iron, and the walls
are immensely thick and solid. Attached to the convent
are the various gardens and offices, kept solely for the
entertainment of the pilgrims on their way to and return
from the Holy Sepulchre. Their stay is limited to three
days, and no longer, during which time they are treated
in the most hospitable manner without the least expense
on their part. There are but fifteen Friars in this
convent, though sufficiently endowed, in every respect,
for ten times that number. After we had viewed the
convent we went to see a Grotto, in which is shewn a
stone of an oval form ; three feet in height by four in
breadth and seven in length; on which Jesus Christ is
said to have dined with his disciples.

We then visited a church which is said to have been
formerly the Synagogue in which our Saviour proved, that
in his person was fulfilled the prophecy of Isaiah relating
to his mission.

On our return to the convent the Superior proposed
that we should visit the Deputy-governor, who resides
here. He is under the Bashaw of St. John De Acre,
collects his revenues, has the care of all his concerns, and
the control over all his subjects in the vast district of
Nazareth. Though a Greek he possesses both the legis-

lyS WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

lative and executive power, and holds the inhabitants of
this wild country in the most abject subjection, and is by
them honoured as their prince.

On entering his palace we were a little disappointed
in our expectations, as it had the appearance of a house
falling into ruins. This circumstance, however, when the
cause was explained to us, raised him in our estimation,
and served as a strong proof of his good sense; as it is this
uninviting appearance of wretchedness alone, that saves
both his head and wealth from the cruelty and avarice of
his prince.

We ascended by a stone staircase to an apartment
furnished a la turque, with cushions and carpets, where we
were presented to Ibrahim Calcussi,^ who received us very
politely. After we were seated, sweetmeats and coffee
were introduced; frankincense and perfumes of different
kinds succeeded. I was next presented with a large pipe,
which I readily accepted, being by this time become an
expert smoker.

Our conversation turned chiefly on horses. Ibrahim
informed me that the finest horses in all Arabia were bred
in this part of the country. I expressed a wish to pur-
chase one to take with me to Europe; but he could not
assist me from a dread of incurring the anger of the
Bashaw, should it be discovered that he had been instru-
mental in procuring me one. He accepted a spy-glass
which I offered him, and in return gave me a large phial
of otto of roses. He regretted that we could not make a
longer stay at Nazareth, as he would give us an escort of
twenty soldiers, who were then absent on a different
service ; however, he spared us one of his guards, who,
he had no doubt, would prove a sufficient protection till
' Caloussc in Moore's Journal.

OUR LITTLE CARAVAN. 179

we arrived at Napolosa, the Governor of which town
would give us a proper guard, in case of necessity.

Having now returned to the convent, one of the
Friars showed us a very excellent collection of medals and
antiques which he was forming for the Prince of Asturias.
He examined the few I had, and promised me that at my
return from Jerusalem he would part with any of those
he had to oblige me.

February the ztth.

We were on horseback by five o'clock. Our little
caravan consisted of a dozen, including Ibrahim's soldier,'
who was well armed, and equally well mounted. His
master had given him letters to the diiFerent Governors,
both of Genia'' and Napolosa, where pilgrims pay tribute
to the Jaffars, or Arabs, who farm, or take at a certain rate,
this branch of the revenue. We were recommended to
them in a particular manner, with a request that we
should not be detained at either place, or required to pay
the tax.

^ *' Whose name was Mustapha.^' — Moore's Journal.
2 ? Jenin.

N 2

TRAVELS

THROUGH DIFFERENT PARTS OF

EUROPE and ASIA

PARTICULARLY

A JOURNEY TO JERUSALEM

in 1788.

WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE

LIFE AND PRIVATE MEMOIRS

OP

T W , Esq.

WRITTEN BY HIMSELF.

VOLUME II.

DUBLIN, 1797.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Nazareth — Genia — Its Governor — Napolosa — Its
Ruins — ^Jerusalem — Its History — Conquered by King David —
By Nebuchadnezzar — By Cyrus — By Pompey — By Titus —
Demolished by Adrian — Who Lays the Foundation of a New
City — Jerusalem taken by Omar .... [185]

CHAPTER II.

Jerusalem continued — The Temple of the Resurrection — The Holy
Sepulchre — The House of Pontius Pilate — The House of
Herod — The Armenian Convent — Mount of Olives — Foun-
tain of Silva — Journey to Bethlehem — The Valley of the
Giants — Fans Signatus — The Convent of Terra Sancta —
Basilica di Santa Maria — The Street of the Cross . . [^97]

CHAPTER III.

Departure from Jerusalem — Attacked by Arabs — Napolosa — Its
Governor — its Various Names and Revolutions — Origin of
the Samaritans — Difficulties in leaving Napolosa — Character
of the Arabs — Arrival at St. John of Acre— Caiffa . [225]

CHAPTER IV.

Departure from Acre — Cyprus — Its General History — Character of

its present Inhabitants, etc. ...... [238]

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Cyprus — Character and Manners of the Modern
Greeks — Crete — Arrival at Marseilles — The Lazaretto — Paris
— Dublin — Brighton — English Blacklegs — A Scuffle with
Opposition — The French Revolution, etc. — A French
Gambling-house — King's Return from Varennes, etc. —
Reflections on Gaming, etc. [264]

1 84 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VI.

A Journey to Switzerland — Lausanne— The Glaciers — Mr. B. —
Some Observations on the Swiss — Their Candour — Their
Bravery — Their Honesty — National Honour — Public Justice
Geneva — Milan — Florence — Rome — Some Reflections on
Italy [291]

CHAPTER VII.

My Return to Paris— The Valois Club— The King's Trial— His
Death — The Duke of Orleans — A Duel — fegalite — Lisle —
Brussels — The Theatre — Calais — A Journey to Ostend — to
Dover — to London — Conclusion ..... [309]

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Nazareth — Genia' — Its Governor — Napolosa — Its Ruins
— Jerusalem — Its History — Conquered by King David — By
Nebuchadnezzar — By Cyrus — By Pompey — By Titus — Demolished
by Adrian — Who Lays the Foundation of a new City — Jerusalem
taken by Omar.

On leaving Nazareth we travelled over an immense
plain, the chief product of which was corn and cotton ;
after which we passed several hills that were rocky and
barren. We were astonished at the number of partridges,
which appeared like domestic fowl, running quite near
us, without shewing the least sign of fear. We also met
many foxes and numerous herds of goats ; and passed
several encampments of wandering Arabs, who seemed to
be employed in cultivating the ground and tending their
flocks.

Before we arrived at Genia,^ we desired Ibrahim's
soldier to proceed before us and settle everything with
the JafFars before we came up, in order to prevent any
unnecessary delay.

On our entering the town, we found him engaged in
a debate with the Chief of the JafFars ; who insisted on
our paying fifteen piastres per head before we were
oermitted to pass. Our soldier, with whose conduct we
had every reason to be well satisfied, espoused our cause
very warmly, notwithstanding the virulent abuse to which

' ? Jenin.

1 86 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

he exposed himself, by thus taking the part of infidels.
I begged of him to comply with their demands : but he
was determined in his resolution of not submitting to this
exaction, declaring that his compliance would be a
direct insult to Ibrahim, his master, whose authority he
would maintain at the hazard of his life.

The debate still continued without any hope of an
accommodation, or concession on either side, when at last
we were obliged to have recourse to the Governor's inter-
ference. But before we could see him, we found
ourselves surrounded by some hundreds of the savage
inhabitants, who were now become so violent and
determined in their demands, and accompanied them
with menaces of such horrid import, as filled us with
the most serious apprehensions for our safety : and thus
did this soldier, in order to preserve his master's honour
from insult, expose us to the danger of losing our lives.

On our producing the Grand Signior's firman, the
JafFars did not scruple to say that they totally disregarded
it ; and we soon perceived that this Governor enjoyed his
title without any degree of influence or authority being
attached to it. He could not prevail on the people to
give up their demands ; but they, at last, consented to
reduce them to one fourth of the sum they first insisted
on : and the Governor resigned, with pleasure, his share
of the tribute, out of respect to Ibrahim's letter. The
people of the town soon became our friends when we
paid the money. They persuaded us to proceed no farther
this day, lest we should be stopped on the road ; and
our conductors expressing the same apprehensions, we
determined, though reluctantly, to spend the night here.

We had just sat down to supper when a message was
brought from the Governor, intimating that he would do

HIS EXCELLENCY'S SUPPER. 187

us the honour of drinking some wine with us ; and soon
after his excellency made his appearance. After a few
compliments he sat down ; and though he declared that
he had already supped, he devoured a chicken in a
moment and eat the best part of a leg of mutton which
we intended to reserve for our breakfast the next day.

Seeing some silver forks, he desired, with earnest
curiosity, to know their use, which being explained to
him he could not help admiring both the ingenuity and
assiduity of Christians in promoting whatever tends to
the comforts and conveniences of life. This was a very
uncommon compliment from a Mahometan : but, how-
ever deficient he might have been in respect to these
accomplishments he so much admired in Christians, he
shewed, at least, by his zeal in libations to the rosy god,
that he had a taste for the sweets of life. However,
feeling the powerful effects of repeated bumpers, and
fearing a discovery of the breach of his Prophet's prohibi-
tion, he at last got up, and with some difficulty withdrew
to his seraglio, which was close to our habitation.

He had not been long gone, when we were alarmed
with an unusual outcry and screaming ; which we were
soon informed was the eff'ect of his excellency's intem-
perance ; for by this time the fumes of the wine he had
so copiously swallowed, began to manifest their full
power in stimulating him to acts of violence and cruelty
towards his unfortunate wives.

The next day we were on horseback by five, and
having proceeded a few miles we found ourselves in the
midst of the wildest country imaginable. Soon after-
wards we passed a castle, built on an eminence, which is
said to have been erected by King David. We stopped
near a spring to breakfast ; but before we had done, our

1 88 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

soldier, whose vigilance and impatience we had observed
while we were eating, advised us to make no longer stay
as the place was inhabited by hordes of Arabs, who had
sworn vengeance against those of Nazareth ; because one
of their tribe had been taken in the act of committing a
robbery beyond the limits of their district, and was be-
headed by the Governor of Nazareth for this encroach-
ment on his exclusive privilege. In such cases blood for
blood is the only atonement, and as we did [not] wish that
ours should expiate their crimes we instantly mounted
and set forward with all speed.

About one we arrived in safety at Napolosa,^ the
ancient capital of Samaria, mentioned by Herodotus,
which we found crowded with people assembled for the
purpose of celebrating a victory that the Bashaw of
Damascus, just returned from Mecca, had obtained over
another Bashaw who had usurped his government during
his absence. Knowing that on those occasions the Turks
are very insolent, we [went] immediately to the house of a
Greek Catholic to whom we had been recommended by
the Superior of the Convent of Nazareth ; and at the
same time determined not to leave the house until we
had made our arrival known to the Governor. We there-
fore sent our soldier to him, and received a very friendly
answer, assuring us we might rely on his protection, and
at the same time [he] appointed one of his Guards to
accompany us through the town. We then walked out
to see the different curiosities that might naturally be
expected in this city, once the seat of the kings of
Samaria, then called Sichem, the capital of this celebrated
country.

There are but a few ruins to attract the notice of the

' Neapolis, or Nablous.

SAMARIA. 189

traveller. The most remarkable is a mosque, formerly a
magnificent church built by St. Helena, and still in some
repair. The gateway is of Gothic architecture, supported
on beautiful pillars of white marble : [it] was never
decorated with figures of any kind, and though very
ancient, is in good preservation, having yet escaped the
destructive hands of the Turks. Ruins of temples,
numbers of capitals, and fragments of columns lay scat-
tered in different places.

Here our faithful soldier, whom Ibrahim had given
us, was to take his leave ; and as the most dangerous road
was in this neighbourhood, it became necessary for us to
strengthen our guard. We therefore applied to the
Governor, who directed us to the Sheik, or Chief, of the
Arabs. This man was a brave, enterprising fellow, who,
on our request being made to him, offered to accompany
us himself ; but to this the Governor would not consent.
He allowed us two of his captains and two other soldiers.
When we expressed some uneasiness at the apparent
insufBciency of the number, he laid hold of his beard and
swore he would be answerable for our safety. This sacred
appeal satisfied us, and we determined to set off at sunset,
as we were assured by the landlord and other Christians
in the town that our surest way to avoid the danger of
being attacked in a wood at some leagues' distance was to
pass it in the night-time.

At the close of the evening we left the town as silently
as possible. Our guides and guards opened the march ;
M — 1 and I followed next, and our servants and baggage
brought up the rear. By five in the morning of the twenty-
eighth of February we found ourselves one mile beyond the
dangerous wood. Our entire escort consisted of fourteen
men, which I considered equal to double that number of

1 Hugh Moore.

190 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

Arabs, as we were all well armed with guns, blunder-
busses, and pistols. We had nothing more to fear, and
as we ascended to the top of a very high mountain our
guards showed us, at some distance behind, the tents of
the tribe with whom they were at war, whose custom it
is to fall upon their enemies from some ambuscade in the
wood through which we had passed an hour before.

We met several other tribes of these wanderers, and
though all well armed they did not attempt in the least
to molest us. At nine we came to a fountain hewn out of
the solid rock, where we halted to breakfast and refreshed
our tired mules, after having rode eight hours without
stopping, at the rate of four miles an hour, over a most
rocky country where scarcely a blade of grass could be
seen. The hills in this country have a most singular
appearance, being formed of strata of rock so regularly
arranged that were it not for their magnitude one might
be induced to suppose them the work of art.

About one we arrived at some ruins which we were
informed had been one of the country seats of King
Solomon. Soon after we passed a very high mountain,
from whose summit we saw the Levant near Jaffa. Being
informed by some Arabs that we were but a short way
from Jerusalem M — ^ and I pushed on as fast as our tired
mules would permit us, impatient to get a sight of this
memorable city, which had been so long the constant
subject of our thoughts. All our anxiety and apprehen-
sions now vanished at the transporting prospect of so
soon finishing this expedition and again turning our faces
homewards.

We were now in sight of the Holy City, which
excited in our breasts emotions not to be described ; but
these soon gave place to a most lively sense of gratitude

' Hugh Moore.

JERUSALEM ENTERED. 191

to that Providence which had protected us from all those
dangers incident to the undertaking we had now accom-
plished. While thus our minds were filled with a
mixture of gratitude and pious exultation, the recollection
of our European friends crowded on our thoughts, and
we would that moment give half the world to have
been able to communicate to them a knowledge of our
situation.

At half-past three we arrived, and entered Jerusalem
by the Gate of Nazareth, and proceeded immediately to
the Convent of the Terra Sancta, where we delivered our
letters from the Spanish ambassador at Constantinople.
The Superior and Procurator of the Convent received
us in the politest manner, and showed us into very
comfortable apartments, which, thirty years before, had
been occupied by a countryman of mine, Mr. Smith
Barrey [sic].

We afterwards paid our respects to the Mushelim, or
governor of the town, to whom we had letters of recom-
mendation from the Captain Bashaw, obtained by means
of our good friend Sir R. A — .^ The Bashaw was the
intimate friend and protector of the Mushelim of
Jerusalem, who held this important office through his
interest ; and, indeed, the politeness with which he
received us, and the friendship he, on every occasion,
manifested towards us, may be justly considered strong
proofs of his gratitude and high esteem for his benefactor.
He even offered us apartments in his palace, an honour,
however, we declined, as we were much better a /a Chretienne
qua la Turque : but he insisted on our accepting the use
of his horses during our stay, and a guard of Janissaries to
attend us. We promised to wait on him the following
1 Sir Robert Ainslie.

192 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

day, when we should be determined with respect to our
future plans, and accordingly, portion out our time to
the best advantage.

Having intimated a desire of visiting Bethlehem and
Sodom we were advised by him not to think of going to
Sodom with less than fifty soldiers well armed, as the
whole road was infested by robbers, who plundered indis-
criminately everyone who fell in their way, and even
quarrelled among themselves. We therefore consulted
our honest Superior, who confirmed the truth of these
terrifying accounts by declaring that though he had been
in the Convent upwards of forty years he had never yet
ventured to go to Sodom, though but eight hours' ride
from Jerusalem. He acknowledged indeed that the place,
by all accounts, was well worth seeing ; but at the same
time would deem it the highest degree of temerity to
encounter the many dangers and difficulties that stood in
the way to this gratification. We therefore thought it
prudent to yield to these reasonings, and rest satisfied with
such curiosities as we should find at Jerusalem and at
Bethlehem.

We set out with the dragoman of the Convent and
two Janissaries, and first stopped at the Temple of Solomon,
which through so many ages has been celebrated for its
grandeur and magnificence. As no Christian, since the
Turks came into the possession of Jerusalem, has ever
been admitted into it, we could not expect to be peculiarly
favoured in this respect, except on condition of abjuring
our faith and being banished for ever from our country
and friends. We therefore contented ourselves with
viewing the outside only of this stupendous and almost
divinely magnificent monument of art.

I shall not enter into a circumstantial account of

JERUSALEM. 193

events or long historical detail, but merely confine myself
to the principal revolutions it has undergone since its
first foundation.

King David, after he had conquered Jerusalem, a.m.
2988,1 and built many superb edifices, formed the design
of erecting a magnificent temple to the Lord, in which
he proposed to place the Ark. The prophet Nathan
told him that his intentions were acceptable in the sight
of God, but that his son Solomon was the person whom
the Lord had chosen to fulfil them.^ David, however,
began to collect materials, in order to facilitate the work
for Solomon, but was interrupted by one of his sons,
Absalom, who took the city in the year 3009. Absalom
being killed by Joab the city became again subject to
David, who died in the year 3021.^

Solomon soon rebuilt the walls of Jerusalem, and filled
up with what remained of the rubbish the little valley
between the hills Bozeta and Moria that he might have
a proper place for the Temple. He began this great
building in the twentieth year of his age, four years after
the death of his father, and in seven years completed this
stupendous work, which for its structure and the riches
it contained became the admiration of surrounding
nations.*

The Temple being ready for the Ark it was brought
from Mount Sion, then called the City of David, where
it had remained under a magnificent Tabernacle, and was
deposited in this Sanctuary. Solomon consecrated the
Temple at the same time, and on this occasion offered

1 This and other dates in the next few pages are not always
accurate.

2 2nd Book of Samuel, Chap. 7. (Marginal note in MS.)
' 1st Book of Kings, Chap. 2. (Marginal note in MS.)

• 1st Book of Kings, Chap. 6. (Marginal note in MS.)

194 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

a peace-ofFering of twenty-two thousand oxen and one
hundred and twenty thousand sheep. This happened at
the time of the Jewish Festival, which commonly lasted
seven days ; but on account of this solemnization the
tabernacles were kept open fourteen days, and on the
fifteenth the people, who had assembled to the number
of several hundred thousand, left the city. Solomon
reigned peaceably forty years after, and died in the sixtieth
year of his age, a.m. 3061. The wealth and splendour
of Solomon's court, as mentioned in the Bible, exceeds
everything of the kind ever known or recorded. He
likewise built a palace for himself, which was the work
of fourteen years, not having the materials collected
beforehand as his father had for the Temple.

About the year 3436 Nebuchadnezzar took Jerusalem
for the third time. It is from this period we may date
the seventy years' captivity. He sent the king, his
mother, wives and children, all the great men of his court,
and ten thousand men captives into Babylon. He pillaged
the Temple of all its treasures, and carried with him the
sacred vessels which Solomon had made in the Temple
of the Lord.'

About a century after, Cyrus, king of Persia, con-
quered the kingdoms of Assyria and Babylon. He
restored to the Jews the sacred vases of the Temple,
which they were permitted to rebuild as the foundations
only remained. This memorable event was foretold by
Jeremiah the prophet. The Jews returned in crowds to
Jerusalem and began to rebuild the Temple in the year
3517, according to certain dimensions given by Cyrus and
afterwards by Darius the son of Hystaspes. They met

' 2nd Book of Kings, Chap. 24. (Marginal note in MS.)

THE ROMANS IN JERUSALEM. 195

with many impediments which were thrown in their way
by the Samaritans, their neighbours and enemies.

In 3991 Pompey laid siege to Jerusalem, on the
inhabitants refusing to pay a certain tribute which he
demanded. He took the city and entered the Temple —
even the Holy of Holies — but did not touch any of its
treasures. This event took place in the consulship of
Caius Antonius and M. T. Cicero.

In 4045, Herod the Great, who had considerably
repaired and improved the city, added greatly to the
Temple, which had been erected after the return of the
Jews from captivity ; and this he completed in eight
years.

In the year of our Lord 70, Titus, who was the
emperor Vespasian's Lieutenant in Syria, besieged Jeru-
salem at a time when it was rent by various desperate
factions. The partisans of the two adverse factions
meeting in the Temple a dreadful conflict ensued, in
which the sacred place was defiled with the blood of the
inhabitants. After an obstinate resistance, from the
fourteenth of April to the tenth of August, during which
time the besieged underwent the severest hardships, the
Romans entered the city, but met with such determined
opposition that the Jews were not finally subdued till the
second of September, in the seventy-first year of our
Lord, and thirty-eight years after his crucifixion. The
city was sacked by the Roman soldiery and the Temple
a second time destroyed, an event which furnishes an
awful attestation of the divine mission of our Saviour, as
the actual accomplishment of his solemn prediction of
those miseries which were to befall that ungrateful city,
and the destruction of the Temple. The walls were
entirely demolished, except at the western side, which

o 2

196 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

Titus suffered to remain as a monument of the power
of the Roman arms. The massy golden ornaments of
the Temple were conveyed to Rome to grace the triumph
of Titus, who entered the city in great pomp, and on
that occasion received the title of Csesar.

Many Jews, however, still remained in Jerusalem,
who in the year one hundred and eighteen rebelled under
the reign of the emperor Trajan, and again under Adrian,
who entirely destroyed the town and thus finally verified
what the Lord had said ^ " There shall not be left here
one stone upon another that shall not be thrown down."i

In one hundred and nineteen Adrian laid the founda-
tions of a new city, which he called JElia, from his name
of /Elius Adrianus. On the spot Vvfhere the Temple
formerly stood he caused another to be built, dedicated
to Jupiter Capitolinus. Thence the city was called jElia
Capitolina. The Jews were not allowed to enter it till
the year 363, when Julian allowed them to rebuild the
Temple. They crowded from all places to engage in this
pleasing enterprise ; but scarcely had they began it than
all their materials were destroyed by an earthquake, which
made them abandon the attempt, and give some credit
to the prophecy of Daniel : " He shall make it desolate,
even unto the Consummation." ^

However, in the year 643, Omar, Caliph of the
Saracens and one of the successors of Mahomet, after
having taken Jerusalem, began to build a superb mosque
on the very spot where the Temple of Solomon once
stood, and erected his building over the foundations
of the other.

' Cf. St. Mathew, Chap. 24, v. 2. (Marginal note in MS.)
^ Daniel, Chap. 9, v. 27. (Marginal note in MS.)

CHAPTER II.

Jerusalem continued — The Temple of the Resurrection — The Holy
Sepulchre — The House of Pontius Pilate — The House of Herod —
The Armenian Convent — Mount of Olives — The Fountain of Silva —
Journey to Bethlehem — The Valley of the Giants — Fans Signatus —
The Convent of Terra Sancta — Basilica di Santa Maria — ^The
Street of the Cross.

From the Temple of Solomon we returned to the
Convent, and, accompanied by one of the friars, visited
the Temple of the Resurrection, in the centre of which
is the Holy Sepulchre of our Saviour.

This temple is a magnificent building, founded by the
emperor Constantine, who delivered this sacred spot from
the hands of the infidels. He wrote to all the Eastern
Provinces to demand contributions ; sent a priest from
Constantinople to act as architect, and St. Helena, his
mother, undertook the journey to superintend this pious
work. This great fabric was finished in nine years.
The prodigious quantities of gold and silver ornaments
which the emperor sent were the wonder of those times.

Many and various are the vicissitudes which this
church has undergone from the different governments to
which the city has been subjected since that time.
When the Saracens under Saladin took Jerusalem, the
Temple of the Resurrection was plundered of all its
riches, but the building received no damage. On
examining its walls they are found to be of white
calcareous stone, which abounds throughout Palestine,
and is capable of a polish little inferior to marble.

198 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

In that part of the church called the Chapel of Adam
are two very ancient tombs of bad workmanship. The
inscriptions are in ancient characters and scarcely legible :
they set forth that Godfrey and Baldwin, two brothers
and kings of Jerusalem, were buried there. I copied the
writing exactly as it was on the stone : — ^

HlC TACeT INCLiTV.*?
DVX GOT)€FK\DVx?DE

BVLI^OTST qviToTAU.

A

AQyismrr t&iiimik'

T5TAM. C VLTVl

XP 1AT\ c V I Mt^ I/^^A

It was under this Prince's reign that the order of
the Knights Templars was first instituted, as well as that
of the Knights Hospitallers. The latter, whose number
rapidly increased, took up arms, as much to escort and
protect the pilgrims who came from all parts to visit
the holy places as to assist the Christian kings in the

^ " Here lies the famous captain Godfrey de Bouillon, who won all this
land for the Chrisiianfaith. May his soul reign with Christ. Amen"

This inscription and that relating to King Baldwin on p. 199, no longer
exist. After the conflagration of 1808 the monuments on which they
were cut were removed by the Greeks, with the intention of destroying
the evidence which they furnished that the Holy Sephulchre had once
belonged to the Latins.

See Quaresmius, TerrtE Nanette Elucidatio, ^639, lib. v., cap. ii., and
Pierotti, Jerusalem Explored-^ Translated by T. G. Bonney, London,
1864.

BALDWIN'S TOMB. 199

wars against the infidels. The success of the Hospitallers
encouraged some French gentlemen to enrol themselves
under their banner. The chief of these were Hugues de
Payan and Godfrey of St. Admer, or St. Omer.

King Godfrey died Anno Domini 1 100, and his brother
in 1 1 1 8, the former at Jerusalem and the latter at Larissa,i
where he was embalmed and afterwards sent to Jerusalem
to be interred.

yS'PES PATTHfeViGonUcCLIfe
CVl UONA.TKIBVA PtHG^AX

C e EA^ J/ eQ,yvr^ Dan.at, Ij o-
MlciPA Damascvs.'cS' 9uoK

"DOXOTIIN MOX>IC0 GliAVUlXVR

hoc TvMVLo.'

1 " At Laris, a city of Egypt."— Moore's Journal.
^ This inscription is in reality in rude hexameters, ending in a penta-
meter, as follows : —

Rex Baldewinus, Judas alter Machabeus,
Spes patriae, vigor ecclesiae, virtus utriusque,
Quern formidabant, cui dona tributa ferebant
Cedar et Egyptus, Dan ac homicida Damascus.
Proh dolor, in modico clauditur hoc tumulo.
King Baldwin, a second Judm Machahaeus, the hope of his country, the

200 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

The following inscription, in characters of the twelfth
century, is under a picture of St. Paul, and now almost
illegible : —

DL/Sll

SVM-ET
GKAC1L19

•f-TVE VA

CllATV

FVIT

Ego gratia Dei sum id quod sum, et gratia ejus in me
vacua non fuit}

After having seen the remainder of the church, which
is divided into four different chapels — the Catholic, Greek,
Armenian, and Copt — we were conducted to the Holy
Sepulchre, built in the centre of the church, immediately
under the great cupola, and though, as the Scripture says,
" hewn out of a rock," is itself a church in miniature,
having a cupola and all the external appearance of a
chapel. The entrance to it is by a very small door,
from which you descend by a few steps, and first enter a
narrow apartment, at the bottom of which are two
perpendicular holes that lead to a small cavern in the
rock, on which the little chapel is erected : this is the

strength of the Church, the pride of both, to whom Kedar and Egypt, Dan
and man-slnying Damascus in terror brought gifts of tribute, is enclosed,
alas ! within this narrow tomb.

The curious epithet " homicida," applied to Damascus, probably refers
to the manufacture of swords, for which that place has long been
celebrated.

' / by the grace of God am that which I am, and His grace was not
found wanting in me.

THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 201

burial place of two of our Saviour's disciples. Proceeding
a little further you pass, by a very small door, into the
Holy Sepulchre itself.

It is nine feet in length, by about six feet and a half
wide. On one side is the Tomb of our Saviour, raised
about foor feet from the floor ; it is of white marble and
fixed against the wall. This little cavern is lighted by a
number of silver lamps suspended from the ceiling, which
cause so great a heat that it is difficult to remain long in
this awful place.

Though we remained here near a quarter of an hour
yet we were so wrapt up in meditation that not a word
was uttered. On entering this Holy Shrine I was struck
with reverential awe, and felt a kind of pleasing agitation
of mind which no language can express ; nor do I think
it possible for even the most hardy freethinker to set his
foot on this hallowed spot without feeling at least a
momentary conviction of his dangerous error. As there
were many people waiting to succeed us, we withdrew
and went to see the place of crucifixion.

I shall not attempt to describe all the remarkable
places in this church. The annexed plan,^ with the
following references, will convey a much clearer idea of
the whole and give more satisfaction than the most
elaborate description.

A. A Square before the Temple of Jerusalem.

B. That part of the Church which was [built] by Constantine

the Great.

C. Spherical Edilice of Constantius.

D. Church of Mount Calvary.

E. Church of St. Helena.

F. A Chapel of one of the IVIarys.

' This plan seems to have shared the fate of the sketches, as it does
not appear in the MS.

202 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

No. I . Marks where two Martyrs died.

2. The Chapel of the Lamentations of the Virgin.

3. The Campanali [sic].

4. Four doors by which you enter the Church, one of

which is stopped up.

5. The Stone of Unction, on which the Body of our

Saviour was laid when taken from the Cross.

6. The Chapel of the Unclean, so called from the Jews

having there crowned our Saviour with Thorns.

7. The Chapel where they divided his Garments.

8. The Chapel of the Cross.

9. The Altar where Service is not performed.

10. A Chapel called the Prison of our Lord.

11. A place now useless, formerly an Entrance.

12. The place where our Saviour appeared to the Virgin

Mary after the Resurrection : the Northern Mark
shews where He stood, and the other where the
Virgin stood when she turned round and saw
Him. (St. John, chap. 20, v. 11, 12, etc.)

1 3. The Altar of Mary Magdalen.

14. The Chapel of the Copts and Armenians, called also

of the Abyssinian Christians.

15. The Chapel of Joseph of Arimathea, who had begged

the Body of Jesus from Pilate, and laid [it] in his
own new Tomb, which he had hewn out in the
Rock. (St. Math. chap. 27, v. 58, 59 and 60.)

16. The place where Peter and John stopped in going

towards the Sepulchre after the Resurrection.

17. The place where St. John was allowed to pass, leaving

St. Peter behind. (St. John, chap. 20, v. 3 and 4.)

18. The place where the Marys stayed at the Burial of

our Saviour, sitting over against the Sepulchre.
(St. Math. chap. 27, v. 61.)
1 9. The Stairs which lead to the Armenian Church.

20. The Chamber of the Sexton, or Keeper, of the

Armenian Church.

21. A flat piece of Marble, on which a number of Silver

Lamps are always kept burning. This is shewn as

REFERENCES TO PLAN. 203

the place where the pious Women, and the friends
of our Saviour stood looking on at what passed on
Mount Calvary, at the time of the Crucifixion.
(St. Luke, chap. 23, v. 49.)

22. The Altar where the Armenian Priests officiate.

23. The place of the Latins.

24. The place of the Greeks.

25. A Marble flag, on which you are made to stand : 'tis

said to be the centre of the Globe.

26. The Sconstasion.'

27. The Seat of the Greek Patriarch of Jerusalem.

28. The Seat of the Vicar of the Patriarch.

29. Sancta Sanctorum of the Greeks.

30. Tribunal.

31. Sepulchres of the Latin Kings of Jerusalem.

32. Stairs by which you ascend to the Church of Calvary,

where you are shown the Spot on which our Saviour
was crucified.

33. The Chapel of the Crucifixion, the place where our

Saviour was laid on the ground, and stretched on the
Cross : this Floor is inlaid with the most beautiful
Marbles.

34. The Altar of the Crucifixion.

35. An exterior Chapel, dedicated to the Virgin Mary,

and called the Chapel of Grief; because through a
small entrance she saw the Crucifixion of our Lord.

36. The Chapel of the Elevation of the Cross, after the

Body was fastened to it.

37. A Pedestal on which the Cross was placed erect.

38. The place where the Robber was crucified, on the

Right Hand of Jesus, called the Happy Robber,

from his having prayed to Him on the Cross, while

the other mocked Him. (St. Luke, chap. 23.)

This is called by the Arabs, Leuis el Jemin, or

Right-hand Robber.

' The Iconastasis, or high and solid screen, reaching about half-way

to the roof in Eastern churches, and covered with icons, or sacred

pictures. It separated the Bema, or Holy of Holies, from the more

public part of the temple.

204 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

39. The place where the Left-hand Robber was crucified.

40. A fissure in Mount Calvary, occasioned by the Earth-

quake when our Saviour gave up the Ghost. (St.
Luke, chap. 23.)

41. The place where the Virgin Mary is said to have

stood with St. John the Evangelist at the time of
the Elevation of the Cross. (St. John, chap. 19,
V. 26 and 27.)

In the Chapel of the Erection of the Cross are the
Remains of two Pictures, which are of the twelfth
Century ; they have the following Inscriptions, which
are so efi^aced that their meaning should for ever
remain a secret, if one of the Friars of the Greek
Church had not taken a copy of them some years
ago. The figures were in Mosaik [j«c] work.

42. The Seat of the Latin Patriarch.

43. The Altar at which the Latin Priests officiate.

44. The Chapel of Adam, formerly the burial place t f the

Kings of Jerusalem : in which are seen, besides the
two Tombs already mentioned, six other Tombs :
one without an Inscription, said to belong to
Melchisidech. The others have the names of
Baldwin 2, 3, 4, and j, and of Almerian ' the ist.
These were the only Kings who reigned in the City
of Jerusalem, except Foler dArogio," from the
year 1099 to 1 186.

45. Sepulchre of Godfrey of Bouillon.

46. Sepulchre of Baldwin.

47. The Altar of this Chapel.

48. The fissure which is seen in the Chapel of the

^ ? Amauri. Moore's Journal reads " Almericus."

^ This is evidently intended to represent Foulques d'Anjou.

REFERENCES TO PLAN. 205

Elevation of the Cross, immediately over the Chapel
of Adam, which fissure comes down through the
Rock, and has an Iron Grating.

49. A Recess in the Rock, in which the Ignorant believe

that the Skull of Adam is actually deposited. I
could not find out the origin of this tradition.

50. A Chapel which is kept for the Superior of the Greek

Convent.

51. Stairs by which you descend to the Church of St.

Helena.

52. Altar of St. Helena.

53. Altar dedicated to the Good Robber.

54. The Episcopal Seat.

55. A Window, from which you are shown the Place

where St Helena found the Cross.
j6. Stairs by [which] you descend to the Place where the
Cross was found.

57. The Spot where the Cross was dug out, which, with

the other two Crosses and the Instruments made use
of at the Crucifixion, are said to have been hidden
here : all of which St. Helena dug out. Nicodemus
is supposed to have buried them here.

58. The Altar of the Cross, where the Latin Priests

officiate.

59. The Altar where the Armenian Priests officiate.

60. The Chapel of Mary Magdalen.

61. The Altar of the Holy Sacrament. It receives this

denomination from the Eucharistical Bread being
kept there.

62. The Altar of the Cross, on which there is part of the

Wood on which our Saviour died.

63. The Altar of the Flagellation, surrounded by an Iron

Grating. It contains a part of the Column to which
our Saviour was tied to be scourged. This is under
the aforementioned Altar, and takes its name also
from having been the Place where Prater Bonifacius
of Ragusa was scourged. He was Guardian of the
Holy Sepulchre, and repaired it in 1555, as appears

2o6 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

from an Inscription near it on a Slab of Ash-
coloured Marble.
+ D. lE5V5EPVLiT.A.PViVDAM

i-NSTATvrv.AN^S. mCAK.

. M.D.L.V.TEB.T. BONIFACIV.
, DbRagvsio.G.S'.M.SION.

„ STVPTIBP.'

And a little lower down :

. XT, UKUXIT.A-L.ISTVD.T.'

64. A Cistern.

65. Convent's Offices and Quarters of the Greeks.

66. Ten Columns of the Corinthian Order, the Pedestals

of some of which are formed of the solid Rock, and
have received their present shape without being
separated from it.

67. Six Square Pillars which support the Gallery.

68. Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre.

69. Chapel of the Christian Copts.

' This inscription is amongst those given by Elzearius Horn,
Icomgraphia^ etc.^ ed. P. H. Golubovich^ Romey 1902.

In his version which he has copied inaccurately from Quaresmius,
Elucidatio Terra Sanctis^ Lib. v., the third word is Sepul. . . Whaley*s
reading agrees with Moore's MS. The Sepulchre [Seputtura) of our Lord
Jeiui was thoroughly {a fundamento) restored in the year 1555 of the Holy
Incarnation by and at the expense of Brother Boniface of Ragusa, guardian
of the Holy Mount Sion.

2 This is only a portion of the full inscription as set out by Horn
(see above), and also as given in Moore's Journal. The rest is as
follows :

ET . EREXIT AL . ISTVD . I HON . X,
AD HAC . QA . HIC VERA . CERNIM,

COLLIG . ET . FLAGELATI . IN PRETORIO PILATI [COLUMNAM].
D . O . M . L .
and he erected this altar to the honour of Christy who was bour.d and scourgea
at this very pillar which we see here, in the Prestorium of Pilate. Deo
Optimo Adaximo laus. The word " Columnam *' is found in Moore's
reading though omitted by Horn and Quaresmius.

REFERENCES TO PLAN. 207

70. Chapel of the Angel.

71. A Stone which is fixed in the Rock, and is said to

have been a support to the Great Stone which was
placed at the Mouth of the Sepulchre, when the
Body of our Saviour was laid in it ; and on which
the Priests and Pharisees put their Seals. (St. Math,
chap. 27.)

72. Door of the Holy Sepulchre.

73. The Holy Sepulchre, on entering which you see an

Excavation made with the Chisel in the solid Rock,
the Work of Joseph of Arimathea, which he intended
for his own burying-place. (St. Math. chap. 27, etc.)
On the right hand in the Holy Sepulchre you observe
a Tomb, formed of two Slabs of white Marble, one
in the front, placed perpendicularly on its Side ; the
other on the top in an horizontal position, as a Lid.
These are fastened to the Rock, and form what is
now called the Tomb of our Saviour. Over this
was a Representation of his Resurrection : but this
is entirely spoiled by the smoke of the Lamps, which
have not been extinguished for Centuries. About
the year 155 J, the Tomb was opened, and it is said
that some bloody Linen was found. The length of
this place is about nine feet, and the vacant space
before the Tomb three feet and an half. Not more
than two people can enter it at a time.
74. The Tomb in which was placed the Body of our
Saviour Jesus Christ.

It may be necessary also to remark, that this
magnificent church has, at different periods, been
known under various denominations. It was first called
" Basilica Constantiniana," evidently from the name of
its founder ; afterwards " New Jerusalem," the " Church
of the Cross," the " Church of the Holy Sepulchre,"
the " Golgothan Church," and last of all the " Temple
of the Resurrection."

2o8 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

Probably it still retains the form in which it was first
built by Constantine, as the toundations must have been
originally dug at a vast expense and labour. Though
the temple has been exposed at different periods to the
violent attacks of man, the most positive orders having
been issued for its demolition by Chorac," king of Persia,
in 614, and by Kakem, Calif of Egypt, four hundred
years afterwards ; yet some parts resisted their barbarous
efforts and survived the general devastation which their
soldiery spread through the city. Those parts which are
coeval with Constantine may be easily distinguished from
those of a later date.

The different parts of this church are splendidly
lighted by tapers and an amazing number of silver lamps,
and at particular times there are several lamps of solid
gold used in the Holy Sepulchre. These are all presents
from the different Roman Catholic princes ; and I have
been assured that the plate belonging to the Temple of
the Resurrection was worth upwards of one hundred
thousand pounds.

While we were in the Greek Church a priest was
delivering a sermon. He spoke with much vehemence
and energy, and seemed to command the attention of a
very large assembly, composed mostly of women ; they
were all veiled, as the Turks will not permit even the Greek
women to appear abroad with their faces uncovered. The
concourse of people, always formed at this church, gives
it more the appearance of a court of justice than the
sacred place of divine worship. The number of different
sects, too, which we saw here is really surprising ; the
Jews only are forbidden to enter the Temple. A little

^ Intended for Chosroes.

THE HOUSE OF HEROD. 209

before my arrival a Jew was found secreting himself in
the church during the procession of the pilgrims : he
was instantly dragged into the square before the Temple
and in a few moments torn to pieces.

The Porte receives so great a revenue from the taxes
laid on the pilgrims visiting the Holy Sepulchre that [it]
is deemed expedient to preserve them from every kind of
molestation and interruption. The Turks of Jerusalem,
whenever they enter the Temple conduct themselves
with the greatest propriety, being convinced that the
slightest ofFence on their part, being represented by any
of the priests, would subject them to the severest
punishment.

From the Temple of the Resurrection, we went to
see the Seraglio of the Governor, who resides in the same
house where Pontius Pilate dwelt when our Saviour was
crucified. The small room where the crown of thorns
was platted is now the chamber where the Governor's
soldiers mount guard. The great council-chamber was
also shewn us, in which Pilate, to appease the multitude,
passed sentence on our Lord ; and also the great hall in
which the soldiers afterwards took him, and mocked him by
putting on him the scarlet robe and the crown of thorns. 1

We afterwards went to the house in which Herod
resided when Pilate sent our Saviour to him,' and passed
under a very large arch called " Ecce Homo Arch," from
Pilate having stood there when Jesus came forth with the
purple robe and crown of thorns, and said to the people,
Ecce Homo?

There is a pillar yet standing in the town from which
it is said that the sentence was made public after being

1 St. Matt. ch. 27 (marginal note in MS.)
' St. Luke, ch. 23 (marginal note). ' St. John, ch. 19 (marginal note).

P

210 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

passed on Jesus. We were also shewn the house of Jairus,
and many other memorable places, where our Saviour
performed those miracles recorded in the sacred writings.

From thence we went to the Armenian Convent, and
were politely received. This is the richest and most
extensive in Jerusalem. Its Superior is a bishop and
vested with great powers.

He informed me that he had at times lodged one
thousand pilgrims in the Convent ; but that of late years,
the impositions, to which they were subjected on the
roads thro' Arabia, were such, that many had been
obliged to relinquish their pious intentions of visiting the
Holy Sepulchre, and consequently that the number of
pilgrims was greatly diminished.

There are many ill-executed paintings in the church
of this convent ; among which is one representing the
Devil, with our Saviour, on a pinnacle of the Temple,
tempting him, and another frightful piece, of an extra-
ordinary size, representing the Day of Judgment.

We were also shewn within a white marble sepulchre,
in a glass case, the head or skull of St. John the Baptist.
This is held as the greatest curiosity of the Holy Land,
and in a manner worshipped by the CathoHcs.

I shall leave to those gentlemen, whose pursuits give
them a peculiar claim to the character of a natural
philosopher, to determine, how far it may be possible to
preserve a skull, for a period little short of eighteen
hundred years : for my own part, I would rather subject
myself, for ever, to the imputation of weakness, or even
superstition, than for a moment to lose sight of those
exalted views, and pleasing hopes, with which faith, or a
belief of the revealed truths of religion, fill the mind of
man.

THE FOUNTAIN OF SILVA. 211

In the evening we walked out of the town, by the
Gate of St. Stephen and viewed with admiration its ancient
walls. At a little distance we were shewn the Sepulchres
of Absalom and King Manasseh, which are close to each
other in the valley of Jehoshaphat. Absalom died one
thousand [and] twenty three years before Christ ; and
though the City, since that period, has been destroyed
more than fifty times, yet his tomb remains still un-
molested, and may be considered the oldest piece of
masonry in the world.

A little further on we saw the memorable Mount of
Olives, mentioned in the gospel ; and the spot on which
Jesus kneeled and prayed, when the angel appeared to
strengthen him, is distinguished by a kind of building
erected over it.

About a stone's throw from hence is Gethsemane,
where Jesus, after rising from prayer, found his disciples
asleep ; and you are also shewn the place where Jesus
was taken by the high priests and elders ; and where
Peter, drawing the sword, cut off the ear of the servant
of the high priest.

Returning another way to the City, we were shown
the Fountain of Silva, where the blind received their
sight, and a natural grotto where the disciples concealed
themselves after Jesus was taken ; another grotto to
which Peter retired to weep, after he had denied our
Saviour ; and the place where St. Stephen was stoned.

From this place, we went to the Chapel of the
Virgin Mary. To the right you see the Sepulchre of
Joseph, and opposite to it, that of Anna, the mother of
the Holy Virgin. Lower down in a little chapel, is the
sepulchre of the Virgin Mary, which has an altar hung
with lamps and richly decorated. At the bottom of the

212 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

stairs to the left, there is a very fine well, the water of
which is said to cure all diseases and work many miracles.

On returning to the City by the Valley of Jehosha-
phat, you are shown the ruins of the palace where
Solomon kept his concubines ; and which you are taught
to believe was once surrounded by extensive gardens,
displaying all the beauties of exquisite taste and luxuriant
fertility ; but at present, this place, as well as the whole
country round Jerusalem, exhibits nothing but sterility
and indigence.

On entering the City we examined a castle where
the Turks regularly mount guard ; and which, on account
of its antiquity (being erected by King David), is well
worth seeing. It is almost the only building that has
escaped the ravages of the successive wars that have taken
place. It was from a window in this castle, that King
David first saw [the] fair Bathsheba, as she was bathing
in a fountain, which is overlooked by the tower. There
is a terrace on the top with embrazures ; but it has only
a few dismounted and useless guns which have remained
here since the time of the Crusades.

In an apartment at the top of the castle we saw a
great number of coats of mail, helmets, breast- and
shoulder-plates, old spears and some shields, brought
hither by Richard Coeur de Lion, at the time he under-
took to take the City from the Saracens, and reduce it
under the power of the Christians.

This tower is surrounded by a very deep ditch, has a
draw-bridge, and is defended below by a few pieces of
ordnance. And were it not for local disadvantages it
might, from the thickness and strength of its walls, be a
safe place of retreat in time of danger.

Night coming on we returned to the Convent, where

JOURNEY TO BETHLEHEM. 213

our friend the Governor always had a good bowl of
punch a FAngloise ready for us. We acquainted him
with our intention of visiting Bethlehem the following
day, in consequence of which he gave orders to have
mules and Janissaries ready for the journey.

Accordingly, we set out at six in the morning and
our guides shewed us the most remarkable places on our
way to Bethlehem.

On the south-west of Jerusalem there is a valley,
called the Valley of the Giants, or of Raphaim, famous
for the defeat of the Philistines, who were twice over-
thrown here by David. At a little distance to the left
is a small eminence with some ruins on it. It is called
Moris Mali Consilii from the first council having met here
to deliberate on taking and putting to death our Saviour.
Near this is the valley where the angel of the Lord slew,
in one night, one hundred and eighty-five thousand
soldiers of the army of Sennacherib King of Assyria,
who came in the reign of Hezekiah to take the City of
Jerusalem.

In this valley are still the ruins of the tower in which
Simon lived, who received Jesus when a child from the
arms of the Virgin Mary, in the Temple of Jerusalem.
We passed the valley called Terebinthus ; and were shown
the spot, where Mary sat down under the Terebinthus
tree, when she was carrying Jesus from Bethlehem to
the Temple. We saw in the environs the ruins of the
house where Joseph was warned by the angel, to
" arise and take the young child and his mother and flee
into Egypt."

Being now within a mile of Bethlehem, we deter-
mined on examining its environs before we went to the
Convent. We therefore turned to the right, and stopped

214 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

at a place called Fons Signatus, the entrance to which is
a narrow cave, through which a man can with diiEculty
make his way. After having descended, you find two
chambers in the rock, vaulted over with square stones.
One of them is forty-eight by twenty-seven feet ; the
other forty-two by twenty-seven. On the western side
are three grottos, from each of which runs a small stream
of pure water, which unite in one channel of about six
feet wide and six feet deep : they again separate, and one
flows into a fountain ; the second follows the inclination to
the Fishponds or Cisterns erected by Solomon, and the
third is conveyed by an aqueduct to the City of Jerusalem.

Not far from the Fons Signatus is a castle, the lower
part of the walls of which are of Solomon's time ; but
the superstructure is of a much later date. Close to it is
the first of the Cisterns, one hundred and ninety yards
long, and one hundred and eight broad. The second,
somewhat lower, is two hundred and twenty-nine yards
in length, and one hundred and thirty-nine in breadth.
And the third, which is still lower, measures two hundred
and eighty-six by one hundred [and] twenty-three yards.
These were, formerly, constantly full, but the Fons
Signatus, from which they were supplied, does not at
present yield sufficient water. Their depth is from forty
to fifty feet. They have been cut out of the solid rock,
and their sides are covered with a cement of a substance
so hard, that it has withstood the force of water for so
many centuries.

These extraordinary basins are situated in the centre
of a valley one below the other ; so that the overflowings
of the first are received by the second, and afterwards by the
third successively. They are not level at the bottom, but
cut out or indented like steps from the sides to the centre.

THE CONVENT OF TERRA SANCTA. 215

This wonderful work is reckoned among those great
undertakings which distinguish the reign of the richest
and wisest of monarchs : and the Ponds are the same that
are mentioned in Eccles. Ch. 2. V. 5 & 6.

After a quarter of an hour's ride from the Ponds, in
the same valley, you arrive at a place called Hortus
Conclusus, mentioned in the Psalms. Near the Cisterns
is the source of an aqueduct, which receiving a part of
the waters of Fom Signafus conveys it for upwards of ten
miles, through various winding passages, to the City of
Jerusalem.

About eleven o'clock we arrived at the ancient town
of Bethlehem of Judea : so called to distinguish it from
another Bethlehem in Galilee, in the tribe of Zebulon.

It first came into the hands of the Christians in the
year 1099, when Tancred was detached from the army of
Godfroy de Bouillon to take it. After the loss of
Jerusalem in 1 1 87 it was again abandoned by them, and
has since been under the Saracen or Turkish government,
but has always been inhabited by Christians.

We alighted at the Convent of the Terra Sancta, and
the Padre Guardiano^ received us with politeness and paid
us the most friendly attention.

As you approach the town, the Convent presents the
appearance of a most venerable ruin. You pass through
a gate-way, which is at present in its last stage of ruin,
though originally of immense thickness. From this
gate-way, you go along a large terrace, on which formerly
stood a magnificent piazza supported by marble columns.

You afterwards arrive at the church, which has three
doors, chiefly built as a security against the Arabs. In

1 " A Venetian His name was Serafino di Chiavari." — Hugh

Moore's Journal.

2i6 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

the centre, or middle door, is an aperture, through which
one person only can enter at a time. This opening is
secured by an iron door of great thickness, capable of
resisting any force but that of gunpowder. It leads you
to a great hall with two doors, one opening to the
Armenian Convent, and the other to the church called
Basilica di Santa Maria. On entering this church the
traveller is struck with surprise to find himself in a noble
edifice of exquisite workmanship.

It is divided into five aisles, by four rows of superb
columns of white marble with red veins, the produce of
the neighbouring hills of Judea. Their capitals are of
statuary marble, of the Corinthian order, executed in the
most masterly manner. The beams which rest on the
columns and support the superstructure, are of the cedar
of Mount Lebanus, of immense dimensions, and astonish-
ingly well preserved. The roof has suffered much at
different periods ; but most of the cedar beams have
remained entire since the death of our Lord, and the
whole roof is now covered with lead. The altar is in
the centre, and raised some steps above the floor of
the church : behind the altar you descend by semi-
circular steps to the grotto where our Saviour was born.
There are three altars in this cavern, now a church, the
Great Altar, the Altar of the Wise Men, and the Altar of
the Circumcision of our Lord.

The walls were formerly ornamented with inlaid
slabs of the finest marble ; but a Sultan of Egypt tore them
down and carried them to Cairo to adorn his seraglio.
The floor was Hkewise finished with the same ornamental
slabs as the sides ; but now consists only of the uneven
rock. At the eastern extremity is a small grotto, the
spot where our Saviour was born.

BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA. 217

This place, which was once a stable, is now superbly
ornamented with different coloured marbles. In the
centre is the Table of the Altar, and under it you are
shewed the spot where the child was found, which still
resembles a manger or stone basin. There is a star in it,
whose centre is porphyry, surrounded with rays of silver,
and studded with precious stones as a memorial of the
star which conducted the Wise Men to the place where
Jesus lay. Under it is written the following motto.

Hie de Virgine Maria
Jesus Christus natus est.

MDCCXXIX

The surface of the altar is an ancient table represent-
ing the birth of our Saviour. Joseph and the Virgin
are in the attitude of kneeling and worshipping him,
while he lies smiling on a bundle of straw. In the
clouds is seen a group of angels, holding a scroll in their
hands, on which is written " Gloria in excelsis Deo." In
the back ground is the angel announcing the birth to the
Shepherds.

The religionists of the Holy Land had the exclusive
right of resorting to this sanctuary, but for some years
past the Greeks have been allowed the same privilege.
Near the Altar of the Manger is a painting representing
the Magi offering their gifts. This grotto is of an
irregular form, and is about ten feet every way. The
length of the other from the eastern extremity to the
western door is upwards of fifty feet. In the centre of
the ceiling are hung a row of lamps, the gifts of different
European Catholic princes. This place is held in very
high estimation by the Mahommetans, who profess the

21 8 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

greatest veneration for our Saviour and for the Virgin
Mary. And though they do not acknowledge Jesus
Christ to be the Son of God, yet they allow him to be
the greatest Prophet of all prophets, conceived by the
breath of God in the womb of the Virgin Mary. They
acknowledge his miracles ; adding that he foretold the
coming of Mahomet.

They believe that in the day of the resurrection we
shall be judged in the presence of God, by three persons,
namely, Moses, Jesus Christ and Mahomet ; and that
each of them will judge his own sectaries.

The Mahommetans are permitted to come here to
pray, which they have been known to do in cases of
extreme distress, or in times of public calamity. When
they enter the sanctuary they uncover their heads and
proceed barefooted, with apparent awe and veneration.

The Emperor Adrian, when he had reduced Judea
to a Roman Province, placed images of the heathen gods
in all those places which the Christians held most sacred ;
supposing that after having been polluted by idols, they
never would renew their worship there. He placed the
image of Venus in the spot where our Saviour was born.

These subterraneous grottos branch out into different
parts which have been dedicated to various persons
buried here. You descend by five steps into the Cave
of the Innocents, from whence there is a narrow passage
leading to a chasm in the rock, into which it is said the
bodies of the children were thrown after they had been
put to death by order of Herod.

There is a very large terrace on the top of the
Convent, from which you have a most extensive view
of the surrounding country. On a clear day the Dead
Sea may be discovered. I expressed my desire to the

THE TOWN OF BETHLEHEM. 219

Superior of visiting it, and other places in the neighbour-
hood, but he only corroborated the opinion of the Holy
Fathers of Jerusalem, by pointing out the insurmountable
difficulties that stood in the way. All which I should
have braved, were I not circumscribed in respect to time.
I was bound, by my contract with the captain of our ship
at St. John De Acre, to be back in twelve days from the
day I left the ship, under a very heavy penalty. I assured
the Superior, that ere long I would pay him another
visit, and should then be prepared, with a strong guard
to proceed to Sodom and Gomorrah, which is only
twenty miles from Bethlehem.

There are some very large Cisterns under the Convent,
constructed by King David, and the whole monastery is
surrounded by a very strong wall. From the manner in
which it is built, it resembles a fortified place, and in
certain cases might hold out a long siege.

The town of Bethlehem is built on the southern side
of a most barren mountain ; and at present only consists
of a few houses.

The inhabitants are all Christians or at least call them-
selves so. They are supposed to be the bravest race of
people in the Holy Land, and have twice repulsed the
Turks.

A few years ago the Bashaw of Acre having sent a
little army to carry off the heads of all the inhabitants,
the people of the town assembled to the number of about
five hundred and made so brave a defence that the greater
part of the Bashaw's soldiers were cut to pieces.

These people are very poor, and the country is nothing
but rocks and stones : so that they could not possibly sub-
sist, were it not for a manufactory of beads and crosses,
which they sell as relics to the Catholic countries of

220 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

Europe. These relics are made of mother-of-pearl, which
is found in great quantities in the sea near Acre, and of a
sort of hard red wood.

We were attended all the morning by these innocent
men ; and at one an excellent dinner was prepared for us,
consisting of at least thirty dishes. These good friars left
us to enjoy it, and retired to sing hymns before they sat
down to their scanty meal ; it being Lent time, which
they observe very strictly. After dinner we went to see
the different cells and other inhabited parts of the
Convent, all which are kept very neat and in excellent
repair.

Before we returned to Jerusalem, I promised my spy-
glass to the Superior, as a small token of the high sense I
entertained of his politeness and attention ; and though
he at first refused it, it was evident that he felt happier in
accepting it than if I had given him the finest Arabian
horse.

In two hours we found ourselves back again at
Jerusalem, and heartily thanked the Superior for the
friendly reception he had procured for us at Bethlehem.

The next day we had several remarkable places to
examine. On leaving the Convent, we were shewn the
spot where the house of Zebedee, the father of St. John,
once stood. It is now a Greek church. The Virgin
Mary and St. John the Evangelist remained here during
the Crucifixion of our Saviour.

We afterwards went to the Church of St. James,
which belongs to the Armenians. It is lighted by a
very beautiful dome, and is said to be the place where
St. James was beheaded. Three very remarkable stones
are seen here. The first is that against which Moses
broke the twelve [.? two] Tables, the second, that which was

THE STREET OF THE CROSS. 221

on Mount Tabor at the Transfiguration of Jesus Christ,
and the third was in the River Jordan at the place where
John baptized our Lord.

We passed through the Gate of Mount Sion, or Gate
of David, where we saw the foundations of the house
where the Virgin Mary died, after having lived there four-
teen years. The two venerable priests who accompanied
us spoke of those places with such profound veneration
as shewed how implicitly they believed what they had
related of them to us.

Near it is the Church of Mount Sion, now a mosque,
built before the place where the Holy Ghost descended
on the apostles ; and where Jesus Christ administered the
sacrament to his disciples and washed their feet.

At a little distance is the house of Caiaphas, where
St. Peter denied his Master. Part of the pedestal on
which the cock crew is still remaining, and a marble
cock placed on it.

We re-entered the City and went to see the Temple
of the Dedication, so called because it was here our Lord
was dedicated to God, and Simon took him up in his
arms, and said " Lord now lettest thou thy Servant
depart in peace, according to thy word, etc."i There is
here a column of vast dimensions in full preservation,
which, I think, is one of the most curious pieces of
antiquity in Jerusalem.

From thence we went to see the Hospital of
St. Helena, which has been preserved entire, and is still
used [as] an hospital for the poor Turks.

The following day we began our excursion through
the Street of the Cross. We saw the spot where our

1 St. Luke, ch. ii., v. 29, 30 (marginal note).

222 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

Saviour was whipt, which formerly was part of the
House of Pilate.

Near this is the arch where Pilate produced Jesus to
the people with his body lacerated, saying Ecce Homo.
This arch extends from one side of the street to the
other, under which are written these words, " Tolle, Tolle,
Crucifige Eum."

Farther on is a little door, thro' which the Virgin
Mary saw her Son pass, carrying the cross, and the place
where he fell under its weight, when it was placed on
the shoulders of Simon the Cyrenean.

The place was afterwards shewed us where the house
of the poor man Lazarus stood ; as also the palace of
the rich man. We were likewise shewed the spot where
stood the house of Veronica, on whose handkerchief the
image of Christ was imprinted when she wiped the
sweat from his brow. Lastly we saw the Door of Con-
demnation, through which Christ was led to Mount
Calvary to be crucified. In the middle of this door the
column still remains on which his sentence was stuck up.
Here ends the Street of the Cross, which is about one
thousand paces from the House of Pilate.

Having now seen and examined all the antiquities
and curiosities of Jerusalem, we did not wish to delay
our departure one moment. The Superior was much
affected, and actually shed tears on hearing our determi-
nation to set out for St. John De Acre that very night,
nor did he give up his arguments and entreaties to induce
us to spend a few days more with him, until I explained
to him the agreement between me and the captain of our
ship. Upon which he immediately gave orders that we
should be furnished with a sufficiency of provisions for
our journey.

THE SUPERIOR'S CERTIFICATE. 223

He had heard, he said, that I was making a collection
of medals, and at the same time shewed me several,
which excited my admiration ; and [I] felt a mixture of
pleasure and surprise, when he insisted that I should
accept them. They consisted of ten gold ones, and
several of silver and brass. He assured me that he had
been thirty years collecting his medals, and that these he
gave me were the best he met with. In return for
which, I presented him with a very costly spy-glass, and
a curious case of pistols, which with much difficulty I
persuaded him to accept.

I had now some very material business to settle with
this good gentleman before I took my final leave ; and
therefore took this opportunity of requesting that he
would give me a certificate, properly drawn up, signed
and witnessed, stating the time of our arrival at Jerusalem;
as a proof of my having visited that celebrated City, to
be produced to my friends in Ireland.

This innocent man never inquired further into the
motives of this particular request, but soon after delivered
me a paper which contained a certificate, that I had
visited Jerusalem,^ religionis gratia : I really was pleased at
the opinion this worthy man entertained of us ; and felt
a little inward shame, from a consciousness of demerit in
this respect. He wished us every happiness this world
could bestow ; and hoped that the Almighty would
further strengthen our pious resolution of revisiting the
Holy Land. We received the Reverend Father's bene-
diction with becoming humility and gratitude ; and two
hours after sunset began to proceed on our way to
Napolosa,^ which is fifteen hours' ride from Jerusalem.

^ See note next page.
^ Neapolts.

224 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

COPY OF THE SUPERIOR'S CERTIFICATE.^

Ego infrascriptus Guardianus hujus Conventns S. Mariae fidem facio
omnibus et singulis has literas inspecturis, D. D. Thomasum Whaley et
Hugh Moore fuisse, et habitasse duabus vicibus in hac Civitate
Nazareh spatio trium dierum. in quorum fide etc.

Datum in eadem Civitate Nazareh.

Die 5'°. Martis, A.D. 1789.

F. Archangelus ab Interaq. guar^ et sup^

[TRANSLATION.]

/, the undersigned Guardian of this Convent of St. Afary, certify to all
and singular who may read these presents^ that Messrs. Thomas Whaley and
Hugh Moore have^ on two occasions, been present and resided in this City of
Nazareth for the space of three days^ in witness whereof- —

Given in the ^ City of Nazareth
Sth March 1789.
Brother Archangel of Entraigues^ Guardian and Superior.

^ The document as here set out is taken from the original which, with
its seal attached, is pasted into Hugh Moore's MS. (see Reproduction). It
is probable that both Whaley and Moore received separate certificates, as
the copy given in Whaley's MS. differs in some unimportant particulars
from the form printed above. See Appendix.

2 I am informed by Rev. Thos. A. O'Reilly, O.S.F., Dublin, that it
was the custom for Franciscans to drop their family names and adopt
instead the names of their places of birth ; and that under the rule of the
Order different nationalities were represented in the government of the
convents of the Holy Land. The Guardian who signed the Certificate
was born apparently at Entraigues in France — Latin, Interaquiae — although
he is described in Hugh Moore's Journal as an Italian.

i^ffi^At',

'*'^t<^'/

Inifauun^q -ffK COrtff^na/ iUiarMi a,-fy^l„fy ,

.^-c

CHAPTER III.

Departure from Jerusalem — Attacked by Arabs — Napolosa' — Its Governor
— Its Various Names and Revolutions — Origin of the Samaritans —
Difficulties in Leaving Napolosa — Character of the Arabs — Arrival
at St. John of Acre — CaifFa.

He only, who has encountered dangers and difficulties,
and groaned under the pressure of hunger and fatigue,
may be said to know the inestimable blessings of personal
security, ease and comfort. This, and the like reflections,
filled my mind for a considerable time after I had turned
my back to Jerusalem. The idea of having now accom-
plished what appeared to most of my friends insuperable,
gave an unusual flow to my spirits, which was still
encreased by the cheerfulness and vivacity of my friend

and fellow traveller, Mr. M ,'' whose sympathizing

soul participated my felicity.

The day was remarkably warm, the country around us
delightful and the road good, and we travelled at our ease,
without interruption till we got within six miles of
Napolosa. It was about two in the afternoon, and not

supposing we had anything to fear at this hour, M '

and I had advanced with our two Arabian chiefs ; leaving
servants and conductors, six in number, behind together
with our baggage.

We had not proceeded half a mile farther, when we
were saluted by twenty Arabs, who appeared much better
armed than they usually are. We did not suspect them
for any hostile intentions towards us ; but in less than
ten minutes after they had passed us, we had reason to

1 Neapolis, modern NabWs. ^ Hugh Moore.

Q

226 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

alter our opinion of them. For on hearing Pauolo
suddenly set up his Persian warwhoop, we looked about,
and to our astonishment saw, at the distance of half a
mile, some of the Arabs leading our two camels away,
while others were beating our guides most unmercifully.
Pauolo, armed with a blunderbuss and a case of pistols,
wisely contented himself with acting on the defensive till
we came up.

We made all possible haste to his assistance. Our

two Arabs, who were better mounted than M 1 or

myself, arrived first, and rushed into the middle of the
band, desiring us on no account to fire, or advance
nearer to the robbers, who, when they saw us approach-
ing, sent ten of their gang to surround us.

This they did so effectually, as to leave us no way of
escaping. They still continued advancing till they were
within four yards of us ; when the Chief ordered us to
lay down our arms, menacing instant death to every
individual of us, in case of refusal or hesitation. Thus
situated, opposition on our part would bespeak the
highest degree of temerity. For, though we might, in
case of a rencounter, kill and wound many of them, and
even make our escape from the field ; yet, from the
great superiority of their number to ours, we must have
fallen a sacrifice to them in the end. Therefore, with
hearts burning with stifled indignation, we submitted to
our fate and obeyed the imperious command.

The advanced party still kept us closely hemmed. I

had three guns levelled at my breast and M ^ as

;many ; all the rest of our party, except our two chiefs,
were severely bastinadoed. At length, our chiefs, after
isome altercation with the captain of the robbers, pre-
vailed on him to restore us one of our camels ; and
' Moore.

NAPOLOSA. 227

fortunately for us, the robber chose for himself the one
that was heavier laden, which carried only our provisions
and kitchen utensils.

Having thus escaped without personal injury, or the
loss of our valuables, we proceeded to Napolosa ^ as fast
as we could, in hopes that the Governor would send a
party of soldiers after the robbers, and take them before
they got at too great a distance.

This city, now called Napolosa,^ was the ancient and
celebrated city of Sichem, which is particularly noticed
in Holy Writ. It was here [Simeon] and Levi, sons of
Jacob, massacred in one night all the male inhabitants of
the city, with Emer their King and Sichem his son, at
a time when they were all suffering under a severe indis-
position, from circumcision. This they did to be
revenged on Sichem for having violated their sister
Dinah. Some centuries after, this city was totally
destroyed by Abimelech the natural son of Gideon. It
was afterwards rebuilt by Jeroboam, and called Mamorta,^
afterwards Naples, and since Napolosa. It is situated in
the Province of Samaria, which took its name from the
Assyrian colonies [? colonists] which Sennacherib, a king
of the Chaldeans [? Assyrians] sent thither to keep the
Jews in subjection.

These tribes were afterwards called Samaritans, which
signifies guardians ; and the Jews, ignorant of the true
meaning of the word, when they wished to calumniate
Jesus Christ, called him Samaritan, not knowing that it
implied " guardian " or " keeper." Our Saviour replied,
that he did not deny he was a Samaritan and the true
keeper of the faithful.

1 See p. 225 anti, n.

* The native name in the time of Josephus was Mabortha. Pliny uses
the form Mamortha.

Q 2

228 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

The gallop we had given our mules had so tired
them, that we did not reach the town in less than two
hours. We immediately waited on the Governor, told
him our disaster, and sued for redress. He seemed
struck with astonishment ; changed colour several times,
and instantly ordered all the Shaiks and Chiefs of the
different tribes to be called together ; and addressed
them in our presence, in a short, but energetic speech,
pointing out the enormity of the crime ; emphatically
observing that we were Englishmen, the best of the
Christian race, the only men of that persuasion who
kept their word, and did not worship images. He said
that we were the friends of the Grand Signior, and that
our king wished well to the Turks. He concluded by
assuring the Shaiks that total destruction awaited their
town if our goods were [not] found and restored before
sunset ; adding that the Bashaw of St. John of Acre
would be glad of this pretext to send an army of twenty
thousand men to pillage and lay waste the town and
neighbourhood.

This speech had the desired effect ; for one of the
Shaiks advanced and informed the Governor that the
people who robbed us belonged to him ; and pledged his
beard that he would have our effects restored in a few
hours, at the same time swearing by Mahomet, that if
they did not he would destroy every man, woman, and
child in the village. After this he ordered several of his
followers to prepare themselves, and almost in an instant
appeared on horseback, at the head of a little troop, well
armed with lances and pistols.

As we were in great haste, we proposed to leave some
of our conductors behind, to wait for the camel, while we
went on in the cool of the evening. But the Governor
advised us by no means to attempt it ; observing, that

DELAYED AT NAPOLOSA. 229

these people were so much afraid of our complaining to
Jedzar Bashaw of Acre, that in order to prevent it, they
would follow us, and put every man of us to death.

This information alarmed us very much ; so that we
now wished, from our hearts, that we had tacitly
submitted to the trifling loss we had sustained, rather
than by seeking redress to excite the malignity of our
enemies. But if the Governor's remonstrance had
alarmed us, what must be our consternation, when, at
our return to our lodging, we were informed by our host,
that the people of the town, who had heard of our being
robbed, and [ofj the vast treasure contained in the hampers
we had lost, now, finding that all were to be restored to
us, felt so much disappointed and chagrined at the loss
of such a booty, that they had vowed vengeance against
us, and sworn that they would waylay us, and that
nothing but our lives and property should satisfy them.

We were still more alarmed at this intelligence on
recollecting that in the year 1785 a Dutch gentleman
and his suite had been cut to pieces in this very
neighbourhood, after being robbed of every species of
property he had then on him, which was of immense
value : and we were given to understand, that in the
general opinion of those plunderers, our treasure fell
little short of the unfortunate Dutch gentleman's.

We expressed our apprehensions to the Governor,
assuring him that we had no treasure ; but at the same
time declared, that in case of a second attack, we should
prove to our enemies, that no Arab regarded less his
life than we did, and that we were determined to sell
ours at the dearest rate.

He replied that he entertained no doubt of the
courage of the English, who, next to the Arabs, were
the most warlike and courageous nation : and he highly

230 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

commended the recent instance of our cool and steady
conduct, in forbearing to fire on the robbers : for had we
acted otherwise, and they could reach the town before
us, it would be impossible to protect us from the fury
of their numerous and powerful tribe.

We were obliged to remain here till about noon the
following day, when the Shaik returned successful from
his expedition, having brought with him our camel
and all our effects : even the provisions were returned
untouched, as they found a ham among them, of which
the Arabs are, by their doctrine, strictly forbidden to eat.^
Strange ! and unaccountable, that any doctrine or precept
should influence the conduct of vile wretches who
deemed it no crime to plunder us, or even to take away
our lives, if they could have done it with impunity.

Nothing remained now to be done but to deliberate
and determine on what should appear to us the best mode
of making our escape from this diabolical country. We
endeavoured to convince the Governor as well as the
Arabs, that so far from possessing a treasure, we had no
more money about us than what was barely sufficient to
take us to St. John of Acre ; and yet little as it was, that
we would part with it only with our lives. To shew that
this was our determination, we loaded our arms afresh,
and also thought it prudent to conceal from our enemies
the time we had fixed for our departure : to which end,
we openly declared our intention of setting out at six the

^ This story was told by Mr. Hugh Moore, after his return to Ireland,
to the Bishop of Dromore, who related it shortly afterwards to his corre-
spondent, Dr. Michael Lort, Greek Professor at Trinity College, Cam-
bridge. The latter, when replying to the Bishop's letter, writes under
date June 16, 1790 : " The bacon anecdote is quite new to me ; I did not
know before it could occasionally prove so ^ood an amulet : but somebody
tells me there is something similar to it in Bruce ; and if this should be one
of the many incidents in those Travels whose authenticity is questioned,
Mr. Whaley's authority may be brought to support it." Nichol's Illm-
trations of Literature, vii. 510. See ibid. p. 509.

WE LEAVE NAPOLOSA. 231

next morning, but privately made our arrangements so as
to depart by midnight ; which we could do unobserved,
as it fortunately happened our lodging was close to the
Gate of the town.

The Governor gave us two of his men to accompany
us ; and pledged his life that they would defend us to the
last drop of their blood. We therefore set out at twelve
from this inhospitable and dangerous town, expecting
that by this plan we should give them the slip. We
sent Pauolo before us to reconnoitre, and having met
with no interruption we were in a few minutes beyond
the precincts of Napolosa.

The night, for the first two hours, was remarkably
serene, and we made the most of our time, riding at the
rate of about four miles an hour. Our Napolosa men

rode in front ; next came M ^ and I, and our servants

and guides followed us with our baggage. But at half-
past two the night in a moment became so dark that we
could scarcely see each other : fortunately one of our
guides rode a grey mule, and this circumstance enabled me
to distinguish and keep close to him. Immediately the
rain began to pour in such torrents that we were soon
wet to the skin. In addition to our distress and perplexity
we found that we had lost our way and one of our guides.

The loss or absence of our guide at this critical
moment was not only severely felt, but also created in
our minds the strongest suspicions of treachery on his
part, and that he had thus absconded for the purpose of
joining his accomplices and putting in execution some
premeditated plan for our destruction.

My passion, in a short time overcame my fears ; and
riding up to the guide who spoke Italian I desired him
1 Moore.

232 WHALEVS MEMOIRS.

to tell the Napolosa guard that as his companion had
so shamefully deserted, I was convinced they meant to
betray us. That should we be stopped, I was determined
to risk my life in the contest : but that before the
rencounter, I should certainly have the pleasure of
blowing his brains out.

The poor fellow declared his innocence, and that
he would answer for his companion. He swore that
he would sooner lose his head than betray us, and only
wished for an opportunity of shewing me his steadiness
and bravery in my defence in case of an attack. This
somewhat pacified me ; but I by no means wished him
such an opportunity of testifying his fidelity.

The darkness seemed still to increase, and for some
time we remained in a dreadful sort of suspense. The
dread of losing our way, if we still continued our dreary
march, was succeeded by apprehensions no less terrifying,
for our safety, in case we attempted to halt. In this
hopeless situation, what could equal our joy on hearing,
at some distance, the barking of dogs, which naturally
led us to conclude that we were not far from some house
or village.

It was unanimously agreed, that we should endeavour
to direct our course towards the place from whence the
cheering signal was heard ; and in order to induce a
repetition of it, I desired Pauolo to sing one of his war
songs. His melancholy ditty had the desired effect ;
and the dogs thus continuing their harmonious accom-
paniment, directed our steps to a small village, where
we were glad to rest our weary limbs for a couple of
hours.

We took shelter in a most miserable hut. The land-
lord informed us, that, about a league farther on, there

RETURN TO NAZARETH. 233

was an encampment of a wandering savage tribe, who,
had we fallen into their hands, would have plundered us
of everything ; and not only taken our mules, but stript
us quite naked. In our way to Jerusalem we narrowly
escaped those very plunderers, through the vigilance of
the honest soldier of Ibrahim, who having previously
informed himself of every danger incidental to the
journey, took us by another road to avoid them ; and the
same precaution was now, on our part, absolutely
necessary.

In less than half an hour after our arrival at this place
we were joined by our lost guide. His disappearing
from us was merely accidental ; he and his horse having
fallen into a pond or pit full of water, out of which he
with much difficulty extricated himself, and hearing the
barking of dogs, was almost instinctively led to follow
our steps to the village.

We remained in the house of this friendly Arab till
six in the morning, when we again mounted, and
pursued our journey. I gave him three piasters for our
two hours lodging, during which we were obliged to
sleep in our wet cloaths, and were assailed on all sides by
a species of Arabian vermin, resembling those on
European sheep, and full as large.

By nine we were in the district of Nazareth, where
the people, owing to Ibrahim's good government, seem
to regulate their conduct on the principles of true
honour and integrity. Here we dismissed our Napolosa
men, and at twelve arrived at Nazareth ; but so
exhausted with fatigue and anxiety, that we found our-
selves quite incapable of proceeding on our journey, and
therefore yielded to the solicitations of the Friars, to
spend the remainder of the day with them, and to set

234 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

off early the next morning for St. John of Acre, whither
the Procurator, who had some business to transact with
the Bashaw, Jedzar, promised to accompany us.

In the evening the Governor^ paid us a visit, and
favoured us with his company for upwards of two hours,
during which, the conversation turned on various sub-
jects, on each of which he dehvered his sentiments with
perspicuity and judgment.

He promised me his assistance in getting the finest
Arabian horse he knew, in respect of pedigree : but that
his price was enormous, being set at no less than ten
thousand piasters. He himself would willingly give
eight, but his friend would not part [with] him for less
than ten. I took the address of the man who possessed
this valuable horse, who proved to be the Governor of
Caiffa, where I resolved to go immediately after my
arrival at Acre.

The conversation then turned from the horses to
their masters. Jedzar Bashaw was the principal subject.
Ibrahim informed us that this man had more authority
in this country than the Grand Signior had in Constanti-
nople. Indeed, from his account, I may venture to say,
that in ancient or modern history we do not meet with
a more despotic prince, or one who has so unfeelingly
exercised every species of tyranny, cruelty and injustice
over his fellow creatures.

Ibrahim pays the Governor of St. John, in annual
taxes, the enormous sum of fifteen thousand purses or one
million sterling. He spoke to us in the most open and
unreserved manner, respecting the character of his
countrymen ; a sketch of which may not appear wholly
uninteresting to my readers.

^ Ibrahim Calousse.

CHARACTER OF THE ARABS. 235

The Arabs in general are by no means so ferocious or
barbarous as they are represented to us. There are many
very estimable characters among them. The Bedouins,
or Arabs of Arabia Deserta, have no fixed habitation :
they live under tents, which they carry from one place
to another, according to the wants of their flocks, which
consist of sheep and goats. They pride themselves so
much on their nobility, that they hold the exercise of all
mechanical arts in the utmost contempt, and prefer
predatory excursions on horseback. In summer they live
on the heights, in order to be able to discover the
travellers, whom they intend to rob. In winter they
direct their course towards the south as far as Cesarea.
Their tents are made of goat's hair, woven together and
died in black.

Their principal chiefs are called Emirs : next in rank
are the Shaiks, whose authority extends over a smaller
number of Arabs. These people, though living chiefly
by plunder, are neither cruel or wicked : on the contrary
they are known to exercise the most generous acts of
hospitality and benevolence to those who fall in their
way, and whose distress seems to claim their protection.

They follow the religion of Mahomet ; are, or at least
affect to be, more devout than the Turks, and are much
more superstitious. If an Arab kills another Arab, all
friendship is at an end between the two families and their
posterity, until the injury be expiated by the blood of one
of the offending family, or a reconciliation obtained by
the payment of a large sum of money.

They respect their beards almost to adoration : the
wives kiss those of their husbands, and the men mutually
kiss each other's beards in token of friendship and
esteem. They are passionately fond of horses, and

236 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

manifest their pride and ostentation in keeping the finest
and dearest.

The Bedouins, as well as the Turks, are not allowed
to wear green in any part of their apparel. They have
in general very forbidding countenances ; and in all my
journey through this part of Arabia, I did not meet with
even one handsome woman.

We felt ourselves much obliged to Ibrahim for his
kind and instructive conversation, and took our leave,
with professions of friendship, gratitude and esteem. The
good Friars of the Convent kept us company till evening,
and persuaded me to accept of several valuable presents,
with some very curious antiques and Grecian and
Egyptian medals.

The following day we were very early on the road,
accompanied by the reverend father and our guides. We
had a most agreeable ride, and arrived at St. John of
Acre by four in the afternoon. We took up our lodgings
at the Chan, which is a very large square building, of
four stories, divided into numerous apartments. The first
story is used as warehouses ; and the second is occupied
by Europeans, most of whom are French.

The next day, we waited on the Governor, who
received us with all that kind of politeness and pompous
ceremony peculiar to Asiatic grandees. After a short
audience we withdrew, and took a nearer view of the
city. It was formerly called Ptolemais, from the name
of Ptolemy, king of Egypt, who is supposed to have
been its founder. It was then one of the most con-
siderable towns of all the East : nothing now remains
but a few houses, and some very curious ruins. I took
a sketch of the one that most attracted my attention ; it
is of Gothic architecture and appears to have been once

CAIFFA. 237

a temple. At a distance you discover Mount Carmel,
the Convent of the Carmelites on the opposite side, and
the village of CaifFa near the sea-shore.

CaifFa,^ which the Turks and Arabs know by the
name of KafFas, being only three leagues distant from
hence, and the time which our captain had granted us
not being expired, I determined to go there the next day
in order to get a view of the fine horse so much extolled
by Ibrahim. In short I was determined, if possible, to
purchase this admirable quadruped, not only for my own
gratification ; but chiefly with a view of improving our
breed of horses in Ireland.

On our arrival at CaifFa I sent Pauolo to the
Governor, to know if I would be permitted to see the
horse he meant to dispose of; to which he returned me
a very polite answer, assuring me I should have an
opportunity of seeing and examining him as often as I
pleased, before I had finally determined on being the
purchaser.

I was accordingly conducted [to] the place where this
rare animal stood ; and truly nothing but the pencil of
Apelles could do him justice. His price was ten thousand
piasters ; and it would be a kind of insult to offer less, to
this inflexible Turk. I therefore gave him a letter of
exchange on Smyrna, and sent the horse to Acre with
orders to [have] him put on board my vessel there.

CaifFa is situated to the north of Mount Carmel, and
was once a celebrated place. The grottos cut in the solid
rock where the Prophets Elisha and Elias used to live, are
still shewn. This mountain is likewise distinguished for
the many petrifications of melons and other fruits, as well
as oysters, which have been found on it.

1 Haifa.

CHAPTER IV.

Departure from Acre — Cyprus — Its General History — Character of its
present Inhabitants, etc.

Immediately on our return to Acre, I told the
captain that I was ready to go on board, and accordingly,
on the day following, we set sail with a fair wind, and
bid an eternal adieu to Palestine, highly gratified with
the idea of having seen a country so eminently dis-
tinguished above all others for memorable and truly
interesting events. But the wind soon changing, with
every appearance of an impending storm, I persuaded the
captain to put in at the island of Cyprus, where accord-
ing to Anacreontic writers, Venus took refuge, and sur-
rounded by the Zephyrs and Graces kept her court.

This island is about one hundred and fifty miles in
length by sixty-six in breadth, lying in 35 degrees of
north latitude. It is forty-one leagues from the coast of
Syria, and next to Sicily is the largest island of the
Mediterranean. It is of a triangular shape ; has several
capes and promontories ; few, if any good harbours ; but
very good anchorage, particularly in the bay of Sharnaca'
[sic], where we landed at a small neat village of the
same name, and were conducted by my faithful Pauolo

to the country-house of Mr. D ^ the British Consul.

His villa is at some distance from the town, delightfully

situated. The house is one of the best I have seen in

' ? Larnaca. = Mr. De Vezin.

CYPRUS. 239

Asia, and is shaded by a profusion of cedars and myrtles,
which seem to vie with each other for beauty and super-
eminence.

Mr. D \ who holds the office of Consul at Acre

and Aleppo as well as in this island, was at this time from
home, having set out a few days before our arrival to
settle some business of importance at Aleppo where he
mostly resides ; though, not from choice, as I have been
told, but because the duties of his office require his
presence more at Aleppo than at either of the two other
places. He has a deputy, or vice-consul at Acre, as well
as in this island, from whom we received every mark
of politeness and generous hospitality. We dined at

Mr. D 's and spent the evening very pleasantly, in

the company of some agreeable Cypriotes, whom the vice-
consul, to contribute as much as possible to our entertain-
ment, had invited. One of these ladies gave me a letter to
a female friend of hers, resident at Nicosi,^ the capital of
the [island], of whose hospitality I shall speak hereafter

The town of Sharnaca [sic] lies low, and in the sum-
mer months is one of the most unhealthy parts of the
island. The town itself is neatly built and the streets are
clean and well paved. In its vicinity there are some
ruins, of which the foundations only are worth notice.
These extend in large caverns under the town ; but what
the building was originally I could not learn ; and must
therefore trust to my own observations, which lead me to
suppose that it was once a castle of great extent and
strength.

Early the next day we hired mules and guides, and
set out to visit the remains of the temple of Apollo,
situated near the village of Piscopi,^ where there are some

1 De Vezin. ^ Nicosia. ' /.e., Episcopi.

240 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

ruins to be seen, and the country for many miles round
presents every appearance of fertility and cultivation.
The sacred wood, which we are told was dedicated to
Apollo, appears to have been metamorphosed into a
beautiful plain.

We spent the day at this village and were tolerably
well entertained at the house of a Greek priest to whom
Pauolo had got letters of recommendation. He gave us
some rare wine, which he averred was one hundred years
in his family.

Having now seen as much of the temple of Apollo, as
deserved the attention of a philosophic traveller, and con-
verted the temple of the Greek priest into that of
Bacchus, we mounted our mules and proceeded on our
journey at nine o'clock the next day, intending to visit
the temple of Venus, situated twenty miles to the west-
ward of the village of Piscopi.

The day being uncommonly hot we did not arrive
here till noon. The ruins of this temple may be justly
considered as monuments of its ancient splendour. They
are of vast extent, and for many miles round there are
columns of exquisite workmanship, and fragments of
capitals lying promiscuously.

At six o'clock we left the temple of Venus, and pro-
ceeded along the banks of a beautiful rivulet, on each
side of which we observed herds of goats browsing on
the arbutus and other flowering shrubs. At nine o'clock
we entered the village [of] Achicis,' where we took up
our lodging for the night. It is situated on the river
Muosi [?], and consists of only a few straggling houses,
inhabited by wretches whose appearance bespoke their
poverty and inattention to cleanliness. Here, after much

1 ? Akachi.

THE CAPITAL OF CYPRUS. 241

importuning we procured some rice and goat's milk, on
which having supped, we lay down on some clean straw,
and, being fatigued with travelling and the excessive heat
of the day, we enjoyed, under the roof of this homely
cot that soft refreshing repose so often denied to those
who sleep on beds of the softest down.

Before we set out this morning for Nicosi, the capital
of the island, we were informed that it would be abso-
lutely necessary to provide ourselves with provisions for
this day's ride, as no refreshment of any kind could be
had on the way. We therefore dispatched our trusty
Pauolo, who seldom or never failed in any expedition ;
and my friend and I went to a cellar at some distance
from our hotel, to purchase some Falernian. At our
return we found Pauolo very busy, roasting a turkey and
a couple of brace of partridges ; which when fit, were
carefully packed up with our wine ; and having made a
hearty breakfast on some coffee and eggs, we mounted
our mules and proceeded on our journey towards Nicosi
distant about seven leagues from this village.

We stopped at a place called Tritmetusa,' which is
about midway between Nicosi and Achici, and having
refreshed ourselves and mules, we proceeded on our way,
and at nine o'clock arrived at the capital.

I had almost forgotten to mention a circumstance that
occurred in our journey this day, which, had we time to
delay on the road, we might have turned to some advantage.

At the little village of Patarsa, through which
we were about to pass without stopping, Pauolo was
accosted by a tall elderly woman, who inquired of him
who we were ; and being informed that we were
Englishmen, just returning from the holy Sepulchre, she

* ? Trimithia.

242 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

immediately deemed us proper persons for her purpose ;
and having next inquired if any of us understood physic
and being answered in the affirmative she earnestly
entreated us to accompany her to her house, to see her
daughter who lay sick of a fever. Pauolo instantly took
the alarm, and with evident marks of solicitude and
serious apprehensions, entreated me not to go with her,
swearing that nothing less dreadful than my taking the
plague would be the consequence. But all entreaties and
remonstrances were in vain. I had now been nine
months in Turkey and had learned to think of infection
with as much indifference as the best Mussulman ; and
having about me some papers of James's Powders, I
resolved to try their efficacy in this case ; therefore
desired the woman to conduct me to her dwelling. I
found the child's pulse very high, and immediately
ordered her half a paper. She appeared to be about
twelve years old, and was attended by all the young
persons of her own sex in the village. I gave directions
that this dose should be repeated, if in the course of an
hour some change for the better did not appear ; and
leaving a few papers with proper directions, I took my
leave, and felt myself amply recompensed for this act of
humanity by the grateful acknowledgments of the
afflicted mother, and the prayers of those lovely innocent
attendants, who surrounded the bed of the little sufferer,
and seemed to consider me as the restorer of their dear
companion. But in passing through the village, I found
that we had not only acquired the character of men
skilled in physic but also that of magicians.

We travelled for the last six miles along the banks of
the Pedicus, where we met plenty of all sorts of game,
particularly the red partridge, and bevies of quails. In

ARRIVAL AT NICOSIA. 243

this day's ride we also observed many eagles and vultures,
very tame and daring. I fired several shots at them ; and
though within the common distance of a gun-shot, did
not kill any, owing, I suppose, to the smallness of
the shot.

Near the village of Scurlo are still to be seen the
remains of an arch, said to have been raised to Alexander
the Great, near to which are several broken pillars, on
some of which hieroglyphics are still discernible. From
all that fell under my observations in examining these
monuments it appeared to me that the Corinthian order
prevailed throughout.

On our arrival at Nicosi, we found ourselves so much
fatigued that we held a council, whether we should dress
or go to bed : in the meantime I sent Pauolo to inquire
for the lady to whom I had got a letter of introduction
from my fair friend at Sharnaca.^ I was informed that her
residence was almost a league distant from the town. But
in a short time, I saw, to my great surprise, this fair
incognita, accompanied by several ladies and gentlemen,
conducted by Pauolo to our hotel. This unexpected
visit threw my friend and me into the greatest confusion;
which was not much lessened, when madame, for whom
I had the letter, expressed her regret that we should stop
at a miserable gargette, as she called it, insisting at the
same time that we should immediately accompany her
to her brother's. As we saw, with extreme concern, that
we had already given offence by setting up at this coffee-
house, we at once determined, half-dressed as we were,
to make some atonement by our prompt obedience to
her commands.

On our way to this lady's brother, she addressed

' See ante., p. 238.

244 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

herself to Pauolo in Greek, and endeavoured to learn
from him the particulars of my history ; in the detail of
which, as he afterwards informed me, he made her
believe that I was son to the King of Ireland.

After a quarter of an hour's walk we passed the
eastern extremity of the town, and soon after arrived
at the residence of Madam E — 's brother, to whom
she most graciously introduced us.

This gentleman appeared to be about 35 years of
age, and had, according to his own account, seen more
of the eastern world than any of his contemporaries.
His principal residence was at Aleppo, and he came here
in the summer months for his recreation, when he made
liberal offerings at the shrine of Venus.

His adventures were much of a piece with those of
Sinbad, in the Arabian Nights : one time the persecuted
victim of divine wrath ; at another the distinguished
favourite of a most benign Providence.

He had been taken in the early part of his life by a
tribe of wandering Arabs, who defeated a caravan, to
which he belonged, on their route from Aleppo to
Damascus. Every soul was put to the sword, except
himself; and he was spared merely on account of his
personal beauty : and indeed it must be owned that in
this respect he seemed the distinguished favourite of
nature ; so that he might be justly styled the Adonis
of the island.

He made his escape from these Arabs and got safe
to Tripoli, where he embarked on board a Venetian ship,
bound for Cyprus : but unfortunately falling in with an
Algerine corsair, he with the rest of the crew were
carried into slavery. Shortly after he was sold to the Dey
of Tunis, and during a captivity of six years encountered

ENTERTAINED IN CYPRUS. 245

such a variety of dangers and difficulties as perhaps never
fell to the lot of any man before him : and in addition to
his wayward fate, that beauty, which was once the means
of saving his life, now served only to increase the dangers
of his hopeless situation. At length, having disguised
himself in female attire, after many adventures he escaped
to St. John of Acre, where he again embarked on board
a Venetian ship bound for Scandaroon,^ from whence he
got safe back to Aleppo.

This gentleman, in addition to the beauty of his
person, possessed, in an eminent degree, those mental
accomplishments which distinguish the philosopher and
the man of refined taste. His sister was also very
handsome ; had a charming voice, which she had the
complacency to exert, for our entertainment, in several
fine Italian and Persian airs, whilst her brother accom-
panied her with the German flute, or guitar, both of
which he played admirably well.

After supper, which was very sumptuous, we walked
in the garden till midnight. It contained upwards of ten
acres, planted with fruit-trees of every kind ; the mul-
berry, the pomegranate, the date and the orange ; all in
full blow.

This delightful garden was laid out with great taste.
The walks were spacious and tiled in the neatest manner.
The mulberry trees planted on each side and kept closely
dipt, formed a shade impenetrable even to the rays of
the meridian sun.

Our party consisted of half a dozen, of both sexes.

Singing, dancing and playing at hide and seek, with a

variety of other childish amusements, beguiled the hours

till past midnight, when our admirable hostess proposed

1 Alexandretta : Turkish, Iskenderum.

246 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

that we should return to the saloon and take some
refreshment, before we retired for the night. The
company obeyed, I believe, with reluctance. For my
own part, I was so delighted with our garden scene, that
no change could afford me a higher gratification.

Soon after twelve we were all in the saloon ; and
having taken coffee and sweetmeats, every one retired to
his apartment for the night.

I found myself little disposed to rest, and therefore
having waited impatiently for the morning, I eagerly
returned to the garden, where I met my charming
E — . Once more I was entertained with her
captivating voice, which she accompanied with her
mandoline. But, at nine, our tete a tete was interrupted
by the appearance of the rest of the company, who now
assembled to breakfast in the garden, and propose some
new entertainment for the day.

The scenes of the preceding day and night furnished
abundant matter for conversation during breakfast, which
consisted of a cold collation of meats and game; among
the latter was the beca tigue^ which is reckoned the
greatest delicacy : fruits of all kinds were likewise
served up.

It appeared to me that the company at this early hour
were more inclined to drink than to eat ; and for the first
time I saw wine supply the place of tea. It was the best
I drank in the island, and with respect to age exceeded
that of the priest of Piscopi's by one hundred years.

After such a breakfast, 'tis natural to suppose our
spirits were equal to any enterprise, and our generous
host, finding we were fond of the chase, proposed that of
the wild boar : but the ladies appearing terrified and

* ? Becque figue, as ^w/, p. 258.

A MORNING'S SPORT. 247

disappointed at the idea of this kind of sport, it was at
once given up, and the greyhound, pointers and guns
were unanimously preferred.

At ten o'clock we sallied forth, and the ladies, not-
withstanding the heat of the day, partook of our sport,
which ended about twelve o'clock : and short as the time
may appear, to a keen or sanguinary sportsman, he must
indeed carry his ideas of sporting or destroying game to a
most unreasonable degree if he should notbe satisfied
with the spoils which each of us brought from the field.

Before I take my leave of Nicosi, I think it necessary
to say something of its situation, strength and extent. It
appears, from the most authentic records, that it has
always been the capital of this island : and at so early a
period as 420 years before Christ was deemed a place of
considerable strength. It is situated near the river
Pedicus,^ and commands an extensive prospect over a
rich and fertile country. It is surrounded with a strong
wall and a deep trench, and had, formerly, several towers,
of which four only are now standing ; and even these are
bordering on ruin. It is said to have once contained
50,000 inhabitants ; but at present its population falls very
short of that number. The best wine is made here, of
which the inhabitants drink very freely.

There is a small convent in the town, which for some
years past has not been inhabited. The people are
mostly employed in rolling silk, of which there is here
great abundance, so that large quantities of the raw
material are sent to the markets of Smyrna and Aleppo.

The women in this part of the island are remarkable
for their beauty and voluptuousness : they generally marry
at the age of thirteen or fourteen, and scarcely retain any

1 The Pedius or Pediaeus.

248 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

vestige of their beauty after thirty. Having arrived at
that period, they no longer play the coquet ; but
endeavour to become the accomplished matron, and by
their exemplary conduct to render themselves useful to
their juvenile friends.

Having now made our little arrangements, we took
leave of our hospitable and truly amiable friends with
much regret ; and at six in the evening set out on our
journey towards Famagousta. The air was still warm to
a degree that induced both lassitude and languor ; and we
were much annoyed by the mosquitoes. For two hours
we continued our ride along the banks of the Pedicus,
and then crossed it. The country on both sides of this
river appeared to be cultivated with much judgment ;
and, as far as the naked eye could see, abounded mostly
with indian corn. The mulberry tree is cultivated with
the utmost care, for on its leaves are fed the silk-worms,
the principal source of the wealth of the island at the
present day.

At half-past nine o'clock we arrived at a small neat
village, situated on the banks of a lake where, I was told,
salt was found in great abundance. We had procured a
letter to a Greek, who possessed this branch of commerce
at a certain rent : he received us with marks of polite-
ness and friendship ; and it is but barely doing him
justice to say, that in point of hospitality he seemed to
possess the soul of a true Hibernian. After a good
substantial supper, and a copious libation to the rosy god,
we reeled to bed, and slept till eight the next morning.

Finding now that the day was too far advanced for us
to make any progress in our journey before the meridian
heat came on, we accepted the kind' invitation of our
generous host to dine with him, and in the cool of the

JOURNEY TO FAMAGOUSTA. 249

evening to proceed towards the town of Famagousta. It
was likewise necessary to send a messenger to acquaint
the Governor of our intention of paying him a visit, and
to provide ourselves with a firman for that purpose ; as
strangers, particularly if they be Christians, are not per-
mitted to enter the town without the imperial passport.

At three o'clock p.m. we took leave of our Greek
friend and set out, accompanied by his nephew. In our
way we saw the ruins of a town said to have been built
by Pompey. We observed this evening a great number
of serpents of the green spotted kind, and many large
lizards running among the grass.

At five o'clock we found ourselves again on the banks
of the Pedicus, along which we pursued our road, for
several miles, and discovered many superb remains of
antiquity. In this neighbourhood our young guide
shewed us the temple of Adonis ; of whose ancient
grandeur and magnificence there is still remaining enough
to excite the traveller's admiration.

There are vast subterraneous caverns here, which we
did not enter on account of the air, at the very entrance,
being extremely fetid, and we also had every reason to
apprehend that they were infested with noxious animals.

In many places I observed scattered among these
ruins, blocks of verde antique and pillars of granite and
porphyry, mingling with common rubbish.

A thought instantly came into my mind, of applying
to the Governor for leave to take some of these inestim-
able remains to Europe: but in this I failed, as will appear
hereafter.

I should willingly have remained here the rest of the
day ; but was told by our young companion that it was
time to pursue our journey. I followed his advice without

250 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

inquiring his reasons; and at lo o'clock we arrived at the
small bourg called Trapesa, where we delivered our letter,
and were tolerably well accommodated for the night in
this village, which is about two miles distant from Fama-
gousta. yV'^ firman was entrusted to the care of Pauolo,
who set off with it at daybreak, to demand permission
from the Governor, under its authority, to enter the
town and pay our respects to his excellency.

He was kept waiting so long at the gates that I
began to grow impatient and uneasy about him : but at
length he returned with a favourable answer, and we
immediately proceeded towards the town.

We were met at the outer gate by some soldiers on
horseback, who insisted on our mules being left outside
the town ; and that we should also leave our boots
behind.

On hearing this injunction a violent dispute arose
between Pauolo and one of the soldiers, which probably
would have ended very seriously, had I not prevailed on
one of these Janissaries, by means of a small bribe, to go
to the Governor for instructions, and this I did merely
to satisfy Pauolo ; as it really was a matter of indifference
to me whether I walked into town in slippers, or made
my entrance, in the equestrian style, with my red boots.

The Janissary returned soon after accompanied by the
Governor's dragoman, who was instructed to grant us the
indulgence of making our appearance in boots, leaving
our mules and baggage behind, which he promised should
be immediately brought after us: to this we readily com-
plied ; and soon after were introduced to the Governor ;
to whom I delivered my credentials, and was most
graciously received and hospitably entertained in his
palace.

THE GOVERNOR OF FAMAGOUSTA. 251

Our dinner was sumptuous in the highest degree, and
for variety and number of dishes far exceeded anything
of the kind I had ever seen before : and to complete our
felicity, we had the peculiar honour of the Governor's
company at this splendid entertainment — a singular
mstance of hospitality and condenscension from a proud
Turk !

The Turks, as I have already observed, never use a
fork : the Governor, therefore, laughed heartily on seeing
our method of eating : while we inwardly reprobated his
disgusting practice of every moment putting his hand
into the dish ; thence to his mouth until he was satisfied.

There is a rule strictly observed by these people,
which is that the cook, at every entertainment, is ordered
to taste of every dish, in the presence of the company, in
order to satisfy the guests that they may eat of any with
safety. Sherbet was the only beverage used at this
entertainment ; nor did I observe any of the Turks
drink of any kind of liquid till they had finished their
repast.

The entertainment being now at an end, ablutions
were again repeated, and after a short prayer the meeting
broke up.

I made this worthy Governor many presents, which
he received with the most [sic] acknowledgments : and
in return gave me a curious bow, with some poisoned
arrows.

In the evening we went,accompanied by the dragoman,
to the most curious places in the town : but we soon
found it necessary to return to the palace and provide
ourselves with an escort of soldiers to protect us from
violence or insult, as the boys had already begun to pelt
us with stones ; which coming to the Governor's ears, he

252 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

was filled with indignation, and vowed that the first who
would attempt to interrupt or offer us the least injury
should be instantly strangled. This denunciation had the
desired effect ; for, during three days residence in this
town, we met with no molestation or insult whatever.

The Town of Famagousta is situated on the east of
the island, between the capes of St. Andrew and Greek
Cape, and is pretty much in the form of an irregular
square. Its walls are washed by the sea, and it was
formerly a place of great strength, having stood many
desperate sieges in the time of the Crusades, when it was
defended by the Christians against the Turks. It is
surrounded by a deep ditch, of very great breadth, which
can be occasionally filled with water. Its walls are, at
present, in a very ruinous state. It had once thirteen
towers and a bastion, built by Henry,' in the year
1293 • since which time it has been well fortified by the
Venetians, who built another bastion on the northern
side ; but since it fell into the hands of the Turks, its
fortifications have been entirely neglected.

This town took its name from the famous battle of
Actium, where Augustus Caesar triumphed over Mark
Antony and Cleopatra ; though it is probable the name
has been corrupted by the Greeks. It was originally
Fama-augusta, afterwards Famagousta, and latterly Amos-
kousta, which signifies " buried in sand," as the town
from its situation really appears to be.

The harbour, which is about a mile in circumference,
is the best in the island. Vessels may ride there in perfect
safety, let the wind blow from [what] quarter it will. The
entrance, however, is both narrow and shallow ; so that
none but small vessels can enter it without much diffi-

^ Le. Henri II., one of the Lusignan Kings of Cyprus.

RICHARD I. IN CYPRUS. 253

culty. An iron chain across the entrance and a tower,
on which are mounted some pieces of ordnance, are at
present its only defence.

About the year 1160 [? 1191J, Richard Coeur de
Lion, returning from Palestine after the Crusades, was
overtaken by a violent storm and his fleet dispersed. One
of his ships and two galleys were wrecked on the western
coast of this island. Richard, however, with the principal
part of his fleet, had the good fortune to make the harbour
of Rhodes, where he learned that those ships which were
driven on shore in the island, were seized and his people
barbarously murdered by order of Isaac Courmene,^
nephew to the Emperor of that name, who sent him to
take charge of the government ; against whom Isaac
rebelled, and usurped the government of the island.

Richard also learned, with indignation, that Isaac had
the barbarity even to refuse his sister Jane, wife to the
king of Sicily, leave to land on his coast in the midst of
the tempest ; and accordingly having refitted his fleet he
sailed from Rhodes, fully determined to land in Cyprus
and severely punish Isaac for his cruel barbarity.

His descent was opposed with vigour, and many lives
were lost on the occasion, but after many obstinate battles
he effected a landing and took this inhuman and per-
fidious Greek prisoner, whom he loaded with chains ; and
although historians affirm these chains were of gold, yet
they were not the less galling.

Richard having now made himself master of the
island, had himself crowned king of Cyprus ; and thus
this island, after having remained a duchy for many ages
under the Greek emperors, was now changed into a
kingdom.

' Comnenus,

254 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

The next thing done by this monarch, was to appoint
a nobleman of the name of Robert Truhare [? de
Torneham] his vice-roy : and having put the island in a
state of defence, he sailed from Lernachai to fulfil a vow he
had made to assist Philip of France in his wars against the
Turks. He therefore repaired to join this Prince at
Ptolomaise,^ which town Philip was then besieging.
Richard arrived before this place, loaded with the glory
of conquest and the treasures of Cyprus. Ancient
writers mention this island under a variety of names,
owing, I suppose, to its having fallen under the dominion
of so many different nations, attracted by the mildness
of the climate, the fertility of the soil, and, above all, by
the advantages of its situation, which renders it the
centre of communication and commerce between Asia
Minor, Syria, Phenicia, and Egypt.

The whole island may be very properly divided into
three distinct parts, differing in outward appearance and
in the quality of the soil. The iirst is composed of high
mountains, running from Cape St. Andrew, at the east,
to Cape Cormachiti in the west, being for the most
part covered with wood.

The second manifests itself in fertile hills and delightful
vallies, at the foot of these mountains, watered with
rivulets and four rivers which take their source from
Mount Olympus.

The third part of the island is a vast, beautiful plain,
extending from the south-east to the north-west of the
island ; and is about sixteen leagues in length, and in
many places from eight to ten in breadth. This plain
has, from its richness and fertility, acquired the appella-
tion of Messaire or Egypt. It produces corn, cotton,

' Larnaca. ^ Ptolemais.

ANCIENT CITIES OF CYPRUS. 255

and the most nutritive vegetables of every kind, in
abundance ; as also silk.

Formerly there were fifteen large cities, besides
several villages in this island ; of which nine cities were
the capitals of as many distinct kingdoms, each having a
separate government from the other.

At the present day little more remains than the ruins
of these cities ; whereof only a few deserve the notice of
the traveller, as the towns of Nicosi, which is the
capital, in the centre of the island ; Famagousta on the
banks of the Pedicus, opposite to Syria, which is built on
the ruins of ancient Salamis or Ceraunia [? Constantia],
on the northern side, and Paphos on the southern : the
two last are very inconsiderable, and only remarkable for
being at present the episcopal seats of the Greek
Churches.

Besides these cities, there are also the ruins of many
castles, which from their situation are almost inaccessible.

The revolutions which have happened in this island,
are indeed astonishing ; particularly since the time of
Dion Cassius, who wrote the Life of the Emperor
Trajan.

He tells us that at that time the Jews revolted against
the Romans, and possessed themselves of the island, in
the reign of this monarch ; and in the space of a few
days massacred two hundred and forty thousand persons,
in hopes of shaking off the Roman yoke. But Trajan
made them pay dearly for this act of barbarity ; for
having defeated their army in Syria, he sent one of his
captains named Lucius into Cyprus, with a sufficient
force to drive the Jews out of the island, and passed a
decree that none of their race should ever after be
allowed to settle in Cyprus : which decree was not only

256 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

observed as long as the Romans possessed the island, but
likewise by all those princes under whose dominion it
has fallen : and even at this day it is observed under the
Ottoman authority.

The mines of gold, copper etc., which, according to
Strabo and other ancient writers, were formerly found in
this island, are not now to be met with.

With respect to precious stones, which the same authors
assert were also found here in abundance, the same [may]
be said as of their gold mines, etc. The only gem found
at present in any part of the island is an inferior kind of
onyx.

With respect to the salt of this island, from which
such great revenues formerly arose, the same advantages
may still be derived from it if duly attended to. It may
be had in great quantities, at little expense, from a lake,
situated near the sea, between the bourg of Lernacha, and
Ptomolasa ' This lake is about three leagues in circum-
ference. It is a mixture of sea and rain-water, which
being exposed to the influence of a very hot sun, a
coherency of the salt particles is effected.

The sugar-cane was formerly planted in this island,
but has been long discontinued ; and the cotton-tree and
a mulberry are substituted : the latter furnishes food for the
silk-worm, which is certainly preferable to the sugar-cane.

The island also produces corn of every kind in
abundance, of which great quantities are annually
exported into Syria, Greece and all the islands.

The wine of Cyprus has been justly celebrated, both
by ancient and modern writers. Solomon himself speaks
particularly of it. This wine is in the highest perfection
when it is an hundred years old ; and acquires, by this

^ ? Vromolaxi, or Dromolakxia.

THE NUPTIAL WINE OF CYPRUS. 257

time, such smoothness and potency, as renders it a perfect
cordial. It is even said to be an antidote against poison,
and of wonderful efficacy in all nervous affections.

There is a custom, handed down from time imme-
morial, still kept up in Cyprus, according to which
every bridegroom, on the night of his nuptials, is to fall
a large jar of this wine and bury it under ground, where
it is to remain till the joyful event of his first child's
marriage: and this they very properly call vin de noce,
the nuptial wine. As it often happens that the children
die before the wished-for period, the wine thus buried
has been often known to lie untouched for two or three
generations, particularly in the wealthy families, who had
no occasion to use it till the intended occasion offered.
And by this means it was first discovered that Cyprus
wine could not be too long kept.

When in the island, I purchased a ton of this vino del
amore, which I was assured had been made thirty' years.
I carried it with me to Marseilles, and sent it from thence
to England: and though I have some of it still by
me, yet I could never prevail on myself to put it under
ground.

The island produces two sorts of wine ; both in equal
estimation, but one will not keep as long as the other :
that which so wonderfully improves by age is by much
the dearest, and costs about two shillings a bottle on
the spot.

The Egyptians have at all times given the preference
to this wine: and even at the present day large quantities
are annually exported to that country, which of itself does
not produce wine of any kind.

The island of Cyprus is not less remarkable for its

' Eighty years. MS. No. 2.

2s8 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

excellent olive oil ; besides rape oil, which, among the
natives, is more in use than the former. This oil is
certainly much better and less rancid than that made in
Europe.

This island likewise produces honey of a superior
quality : also saffron, capers, laudanum, mandrake,
vermilion, and a great variety of aromatic and medicinal
herbs.

The island is not so famous for its horses as its
mules, which though not so large as those of Spain are,
nevertheless, preferred, particularly on account of their
gentleness and tractableness.

Every species of domestic fowl known in Europe may
be met with here, and with respect to game, no island
can surpass it. There are several small birds in very high
estimation in this island, among which may be reckoned
the ortolan and becque Jigue ; the latter is accounted the
greatest delicacy both in the island and in all parts of
Europe. They are preserved in Cyprus wine mixed
with vinegar, and sent in great quantities to Venice,
where they are in the highest estimation among the
nobility.

The greyhounds of Cyprus are said to surpass in
swiftness those of any other country : as to the truth of
this assertion, I can only say, that at Nicosi I had an
opportunity of seeing repeated trials of their agility and
speed, and were I to form my judgment from the short-
ness of the time in which they ran down a hare, I must
certainly decide in their favour. The cats of this island
are very beautiful ; and exceed in shape and size those of
Angora. They have a peculiarity which is not to be
found in any of the feline kind yet discovered, and that
is their mortal hatred to serpents, which they destroy and

CAMELIONS. 259

persecute with the same degree of implacable fury and
malignity which the whole race manifest towards rats
and mice.

Camelions are to be met with in great numbers, in
the mulberry gardens, and vineyards. I had one of these
inoffensive animals for many months, and carried [it] to
Marseilles in my bosom, which place it seldom left,
except when provoked by injury, or pinched by hunger.
Its passion, in either case, to which it is very subject, is
always expressed by a change of colour ; and so quick is
the succession of these changes, that one of those curious
creatures will display no less than fifty different colours in
the space of a few minutes. This I had many oppor-
tunities of observing, when I could not procure for my
little favourite what he usually fed upon, namely flies.
And again, after it had eaten a sufficiency, should I not
immediately receive it into my bosom, its anger would
instantly appear in the same variety of colours.

This little animal, notwithstanding all my care, died
in the lazaretto whilst I performed quarantine at
Marseilles.

The air, in some parts of this island, during the
summer and part of the autumn, is rendered extremely
unwholesome by the excessive heats which prevail at
those seasons of the year. The grass is burnt up, and
malignant fevers rage; particularly in the country around
Lernacha and Famagousta. But all these inconveniences
may be avoided by retiring at the approach of those
baneful heats to the cantons of Soli, Nicosi, Lapatros,
Carpasso, or Piscopi ; in all which places the air is found
to be as temperate and salutary as in any part of France.

And bad as the air is in those maritime places I have
mentioned, I think the inhabitants may in some measure

s 2

26o WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

prevent, or guard against its noxious influence, by build-
ing their dwelling-houses at least two stories high instead
of one. This improvement would at least secure them
from the incessant attacks of the mosquito and other
troublesome insects, to which they are always exposed by
lying on the ground.

It is asserted by most authors who have given, or
attempted, a general history of this island, that it is
watered only by the torrents caused by the heavy rains
during the winter. But this is certainly a mistake, and
shews that those writers were entirely unacquainted with
the interior parts of the country. It must indeed be
owned that the island cannot boast any large rivers ; but
there are many pretty rivulets and streams that never
dry up.

The only river that deserves the name of one is the
Pedicus, which I have had occasion to mention before.
This river divides into two considerable branches, tra-
versing all the plains of Messaria, and passes through the
town of Nicosi. It sometimes overflows, and in this case
produces the same happy effects on its neighbouring
plains that the river Nile does in Egypt.

There are also many springs of excellent water, and
four or five rivulets gushing from Mount Olympus, and
the neighbouring mountains. One of these waters the
delightful country in the neighbourhood of Piscopi ; as
also the lordship of Colossi, formerly the benefice
belonging to the Knights Templars and Hospitallers,
to whom this famous benefice was granted after the
extinction of the former.

There is another beautiful spring of limpid water
above the hourg Chitrie [? Citria]. This source, after
furnishing sufficient water for thirty-six miles, serves the

THE PRODUCTS OF CYPRUS. 261

inhabitants of Palecitro to water a very great extent of
gardens. Hence it must appear that the accounts of some
authors, respecting a want of water in this island, are
totally unfounded. It sometimes happens, as I was in-
formed, that there is no fall of rain in any part of the
island for three months together : to guard against this
calamity, the islanders sink deep wells in proper places,
and by means of machines made for the purpose, in imita-
tion of the Egyptians, they supply themselves from these
wells.

I have already observed that this island produces silk
in abundance, which in the opinion of most silk buyers,
has more substance in it than any that is to be met with
in other countries, and is therefore preferred to all other,
both in France and England, for particular uses, such as
fringe, and in stuffs where embroidery is introduced.

Their cotton trade is not less important than their
silk, and its superior quality is so well known that it
always meets a preference in the European markets.

There are still many parts of the island in a state of
nature, which produce olives in great abundance spon-
taneously. These uncultivated tracts are principally to
be [found] in the cantons of Carpasso ; which from the
fertility of the soil, if duly attended to, would yield an
immense increase to the revenues of the island.

Cyprus is not the only country on this part of the
globe where, from the want of inhabitants, the finest
soil lies uncultivated. The greater part of the Ottoman
empire appears in this primeval state ; as their population
bears no proportion to their extent of territory.

The amazing fertility of this island, and the little
labour and expense in procuring here not only the
necessaries but also the luxuries of life in abundance.

262 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

serves only to render the inhabitants sensual, indolent,
and effeminate. Their whole time is devoted to adorning
their persons, feasting, dancing and the like amusements.

The women are in general of the middle size, and
much inferior to the English ladies in point of figure.
Their complexion is rather dark ; but their fine expres-
sive black eyes and good teeth make up, in a great
measure, for the want of those beautiful tints of fair and
red which characterise our British and Hibernian ladies.
They are not only warm in their attachment, but violent
to the greatest degree ; ever ready to make any sacrifice,
or encounter any difficulty to promote and secure the
happiness of the object of their choice : but let the happy
man beware of betraying any appearance of coolness or
indifference on his part ; and above all, let him take care
how he ventures to withdraw himself from a Cypriete.
[sic]

The men are treacherous, and so cowardly and lost to
a sense of honour that they will not dare to smell gun-
powder, even in defence or vindication of the honour of
a sister or a wife.

Before I take my final leave of this beautiful island, I
shall take notice of the variety of names under which it
has been known at different periods.

The Greeks call it " Kupros," as appears from the
works of Homer and Hesiod, as well as many other
poets. The name or epithet " Kypris " or " Koupris "
given to Venus is, in the opinion of many writers a proof
that she was first worshipped in this island. The Greeks
have not agreed upon the origin of the word " Kupros " :
but they have endeavoured to remove the difficulty in
their usual way, by supposing that a hero had given his
name to the island. Others ascribe it to a plant which

RETURN TO LARNACA. 263

grows spontaneously in many parts of the island. This
plant resembles the pomegranate in its branches and
leaves, and flowers somewhat like the vine. Its blossoms
have an odoriferous smell ; and, as Strabo relates, were
much used for medicinal purposes by the physicians of
his day.

The Turkish women, and some of the inhabitants of
the islands of Chio and Patmos, stain their nails and hair
with a juice extracted from this flower, or blossom, which
is considered by them as a great beauty.

Having now made our little arrangements, we journied
back with all possible expedition to Lernacha, where my
ship was waiting to take me back to Europe. On our
return to Lernacha, we immediately waited on our good
friend the vice-consul, to whom we were indebted for the
very favourable reception we met with at the different
places we visited in our tour through this island, par-
ticularly at Nicosi ; and I was not a little surprised on
receiving a letter from the truly amiable and charming
Madame E., by the hands of her confidential friend,
which breathed such warm professions of inviolable
attachment, disinterested friendship and esteem, as would
have induced any man but myself to settle for life in this
paradisiacal island. But to the mind of a man, such as I
then was, the slave of passion and the votary of licenti-
ousness, such an idea would be no less horrible than that
of self-destruction.

However, I said every thing that could tend to re-
concile her to a temporary separation, as I termed it,
assuring her that I was only going to pay my respects
to Sir R. A.^ at Constantinople, and would return very
shortly from thence to Cyprus.

' Sir Robt. Ainslie.

CHAPTER V.

Departure from Cyprus — Character and Manners of the Modern Greeks
— Crete — Arrival at Marseilles — The Lazaretto — Paris — Dublin-
Brighton — English Blacklegs — A Scuffle with Opposition — The
French Revolution, etc. — A French Gambling-house — King's Return
from Varennes, etc. — Reflections on Gaming, etc

Before I leave the country of ancient heroes and
demi-gods, I must beg permission to make a few observa-
tions respecting what I have seen and heard of the
character and manners of the modern Greeks.

Ancient Greece, which once presented to the admiring
world so many noble and flourishing cities, and gave
birth to so many distinguished warriors, poets and
orators, now appears a desolate and ruined country ;
where the hand of despotism has levelled to the ground
the monuments of its former grandeur ; extinguished the
fire of genius and destroyed the energy of its inhabitants.

The wretched descendants of those renowned heroes
are at the present day distinguished only for low cunning,
baseness, ferocity and the grossest superstition. The
abject state of slavery and humiliation to which they are
reduced has rendered them mean and dastardly.

But I must not omit to observe that such of the
inhabitants as are at a small distance from the seat of
empire seem still to preserve a portion of hereditary
spirit, particularly those of the Tagget mountains,^ who
maintain that they are the true descendants of the ancient

' Mount Taygetos.

CYPRIAN MARRIAGES. 265

Spartans. These people could never be subdued : but in
order to preserve what they call their independence, they
pay to this moment a tribute to the Porte.

The Greeks differ very little from the Turks in their
manners ; but fall infinitely short of them in point of
sincerity and fidelity. The only difference in their dress
is that the Greeks are not permitted to wear green, or
yellow. The Greeks very often give their daughters in
marriage to Turks ; but it must be on condition that the
children of these Grecian ladies shall be brought up in
the Mahommetan religion.

The marriage ceremony is always performed in the
presence of a priest, and is held a sacrament ; but the
union is not considered as indissoluble : and accordingly
a divorce is obtained on merely applying for it, and the
parties are at liberty to marry as soon after as they may
think proper.

The brilliant torch of Hymen, so celebrated by the
ancient poets, is not forgotten by the modern Greeks. It
is placed in the nuptial room, and remains there till it be
consumed. As soon as the bride arrives at the house of
her husband, she is obliged to walk over a cribble placed
on the carpet for that purpose, and should she not break
it, the husband, without further proof, would give way to
suspicions of the most unfavourable kind : therefore great
care is taken that those cribbles should be of a very fine
texture.

It is the custom, always to burn a lamp in their bed-
rooms — the rich from habit, the poor from devotion —
and this lamp is placed before an image.

The women are intolerably proud, though not so
handsome as they are represented by many travellers.
The most beautiful are in the island of Chio. They all

266 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

paint their eyebrows with a preparation of antimony and
gall-nuts. They are not allowed to live with a Frank
without having previously obtained permission from the
Cadi. The Grecian ladies never appear in public without
a numerous suite, and at public ceremonies they are
always on horseback.

The wind, for the first part of our voyage, was pretty
fair, and after a navigation of ten days we discovered the
island of Candia, formerly called Crete, so celebrated in
ancient history and mythology. This island is about two
hundred miles long and fifty broad, and is at present
chiefly inhabited by Greeks, who are said to pay the
strictest regard to social and moral duties. The island
produces plenty of excellent wine, corn, oil, silk and
hemp, and is covered with olive-trees as large and
flourishing as those of Toulon and Seville. The capital,
of the same name, which was formerly so populous, is
now almost desolate : it is, however, the see of a Greek
archbishop, and its walls are still standing.

At the extremity of the town is a small rivulet, sup-
posed to be the river Lethe of the ancients. Mount Ida,
so famous in history, is nothing but a sharp pointed
eminence, or craggy ridge, which divides this island.
This mountain, however, must not be confounded with
mount Ida in the neighbourhood of Troy, where the
shepherd Paris adjudged the prize of beauty to the
goddess Venus.

The Labyrinth so famed in Classic history, built by
Daedalus in imitation of that in Egypt, extends for up-
wards of two miles under a hill at the foot of Mount Ida.

The next day we descried the island of Cythera, now
called Cerigo, forty miles distant from the island of
Candia. It was sacred to Venus, with a very ancient

FROM CYPRUS TO MARSEILLES. 267

temple of that goddess, who was supposed to have
emerged from the sea near its coasts.

We now continued our course for several days with-
out interruption, till, within three leagues of the island of
Malta, we discovered a vessel which our captain thought
bore a suspicious appearance. Having examined her
with my glass, I perceived that she had no guns, but was
full of men armed with sabres and pistols.

Our fears subsided a little on her nearer approach, as
we saw that she carried Tunisian colours ; and those
states were then at peace with France, to which nation
our vessel belonged. Having no boat on board, they
made us a signal to hoist out ours : and when within hail
they ordered our captain to go on board and carry with
him some brandy, a chart and a compass ; which having
obtained, they permitted us to proceed without even
returning us thanks ; judging, perhaps rightly, that they
owed their acquisition more to our fears than any friendly
disposition towards them.

A few days after we made Cape Bona, on the Barbary
Coast, and soon after discovered Sardinia on our starboard.
At length, in thirty-seven days after our departure from
Cyprus, we came to an anchor in the port of Marseilles.

The captain went on shore to deliver his letters at
a particular place appointed for that purpose, as all
vessels coming from the Levant are obliged to perform
quarantine at the lazaretto, or Pest-house, of Marseilles.
If in the space of those forty days none of the crew fall
sick, they are enlarged and permitted to enter the pales
of society ; otherwise the quarantine recommences until
they are all in perfect health.

The lazaretto is one of the best establishments I have
seen for strict order and regularity.

268 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

The building, which is very extensive, is situated on
the sea-side and surrounded by high walls, within which
are several large squares, for the purpose of airing the
merchandise, lest they might retain infection. The crew
of every vessel is separately guarded, and should any
person who had nearly performed his quarantine touch
any one who was just entering on it, he becomes, ipso facto,
re-involved in the same necessity of probation with the
other. If even a friend comes to visit him, he must not
approach nearer than two yards from the grated door :
and should he be so imprudent as to touch him, he is
subject to the same painful confinement.

This excellent institution is regulated by the Board of
Trade, who every year appoint twelve merchants under
the title of Superintendents of Health, with unlimited
authority in everything that regards the establishment.

Having passed thirty' days in this retreat, as we had
letters of health from our Consul, we were at length
judged fit once more to become members of society, an
intelligence which I received with inexpressible joy and
satisfaction, and resolved to make ample amends for the
long abstinence and self-denial I had undergone.

On my first visit to Marseilles I became acquainted
with a young officer of Infantry, who had distinguished
himself, as a spendthrift, a gambler and a self-sufficient
blockhead. He possessed all the volubility and vain
boasting of his countrymen, without any of their agree-
able qualifications. This worthy gentleman often came
to see me while I was in the lazaretto ; and as soon as
the auspicious day was announced, I commissioned him
to make every necessary preparation to celebrate the joyful
event of my deliverance from this tedious and irksome

' Moore's Journal says twenty-one days. See Appendix. Route.

RETURN TO DUBLIN. 269

confinement ; as it was my wish that nothing should be
wanting, as far as money, wine and the fair votaries of the
Cyprian goddess, with whom this happy city abounds,
could contribute to the entertainment of a select party.

This was a charge which he undertook with the
greatest readiness, and acquitted himself entirely to the
satisfaction of his friends. Everything was comme il faut.
But as usual on these occasions, the lot fell upon Jonas ;
for besides the extravagant charges of the entertainment
I lost three hundred louts (Tors at play to complete the
happiness and hilarity of these good-natured friends.

After I had rested a fortnight at Marseilles, I set out
for Paris, and amused myself there and [in] its environs
for about three weeks.

I had the honour of being introduced to a lady of
high rank, who was the particular favourite of a great
personage, and who has since ended her career in a
manner, at that time little expected, which may be justly
considered one of the most extraordinary events of this
extraordinary age.

This unfortunate victim, to whom every heart and
every court in Europe was then paying homage, could
not afterwards find one individual resolute enough to risk
his life for her deliverance. She shone then a bright star
in all the splendour of royalty !

Coming one evening to this lady's house, she
honoured me with particular attentions and entered into
a long conversation with me on the subject of my travels,
in the course of which she made such observations as
proved her a lady of brilliant wit and much information.

Soon after this conference, I quitted Paris for London,
where I did not remain long, being impatient to receive
the reward of my dangerous expedition.

When I arrived in Dublin I produced such incon-

270 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

testable proofs of having accomplished my arduous under-
taking, and fulfilled my engagement, that my friends,
who had staked their money on the supposed impracti-
cability of the journey, were obliged reluctantly to pay
me fifteen thousand pounds.^

The expenses of my journey to Jerusalem amounted
to eight thousand, so that I cleared seven thousand
pounds^ by this expedition ; the only instance in all my
life before, in which any of my projects turned out to my
advantage.

On leaving London, I committed my fine Arabian
horse to the care of my groom. All the amateurs and
knowing ones of London flocked to see him.

One of them offered me a thousand guineas for the
horse : but as I had no intention of parting with him for
any sum, the offer was of course rejected. In a few days
after, I received, with inexpressible grief and vexation,
the news of his death. It was the general opinion, that
some scoundrel, under the malign influence of envy, had
poisoned this incomparable quadruped ; and though I
could never discover the author, yet I have not the
smallest doubt of the fact.

I remained in Dublin upwards of two years, during
which time I addicted myself to play with unabating
eagerness, and with various success : but upon the close,
the balance was considerably against me.

It was at that period I happily formed an acquaint-
ance with a lady of exquisite taste and sensibility from
whom I have never since separated. She has been a
consolation to me in all my troubles — her persuasive
mildness has been a constant check on the impetuosity
of my temper, and at this moment, constitutes, in my
retirement, the principal source of all my felicity.
' ^^25,000. MS. No. 2. ^^17,000. MS. No. 2.

INTRODUCED TO H.R.H. 271

When I had gone the round of all the amusements
which my own country could afford, I panted after some-
thing new, and as I never had a fixed establishment in
London, I thought this scheme offered an opportunity
of gratifying my volatility. With that rapidity which .
marked all my actions, I took a house in London; bought
horses and carriages ; subscribed to all the fashionable
clubs and was in a short time a complete man of the ton
at the West End of the Town.

I had the honour of being presented at Court ; and
was particularly introduced to his Royal Highness the
Prince of Wales, who honoured me with every mark of
polite attention, for which this Prince is so eminently
distinguished.

After having for some time enjoyed the pleasures of
the metropolis, I went to the races at Brighton. One
evening, after having had the honour of dining with
H.R.H. at the Pavilion, we repaired to the ball-room,
where he did me the honour of introducing me to the
Duchess of C — ^

The wine I had drank, joined to the habit I had
acquired abroad, of behaving with very little ceremony to
ladies, made me behave with so little respect and decorum
towards the duchess, that had I met with my real deserts,
I should have been kicked out of the ball-room. I shall
never be able to suppress the reproaches of my heart for
my unwarrantable behaviour in addressing this lady in
too familiar and unbecoming a manner. But she good-
naturedly imputed my conduct to the effects of wine —
the only excuse our poor countrymen can make for their
various absurdities and errors in all parts of the world.

1 ? Cumberland. MS. (No. 2) reads " G " which possibly may

stand for Gloucester.

272 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

After the Ball, I took a walk with two of my friends
upon the Steyn, and as we were returning we heard the
voices of many people in a house, which we had no
sooner entered than we discovered several of our friends,
surrounded by some of the most noted blacklegs in
England, deeply engaged at play. Though I knew the
character of those I had to deal with, yet such was my
blind attachment to play that I could not resist the
opportunity ; and according to the proverb, embraced the
evil in order to avoid the temptation.

Whether my adversaries meant to draw me in by
encouraging me at first, or that the dice ran unusually in
my favour, certain it is that I was, in a little time, a
gainer of more than five hundred guineas : whereupon
one of the blacklegs, vexed at his ill-luck, vented his
chagrin in such impertinent language to me, that I was
provoked to give him a most hearty thrashing, which
broke up the party for the night.

The next evening I returned to the scene of action,
and not only lost what I had won the preceding night,
but a considerable sum beside.

When I came home, Mr. C — my fellow-lodger and
companion in affliction, asked me if I did not perceive
that we had been most egregiously cheated .? I answered
no, and that I believed our losses were owing merely
to ill-luck. " I am convinced to the contrary," replied
he, " and that Rascal Major G — , I have no doubt, is the
principal agent in the business." " Impossible," said I ;
" a man of his fortune and connections could not descend
to such meanness." " Well then," added Mr. C — " are
you willing to put it to the proof ? If so, I will under-
take this night, to convict this man of fortune and high
connections, of using false dice ; which, on my honour, I

FALSE DICE AND A SCUFFLE. 273

believe he conceals in the hollow of his hand, to be
produced whenever a fit occasion offers."

I immediately expressed my approbation of my
friend's proposal, and having fixed our plan, we repaired
to the place appointed, accompanied by Col. St. L — and
the Abbe St. F — , both of whom quitted the room soon
after our arrival. We found nearly the same company as
the evening before. It was then about midnight ; and
the better to carry on our scheme we affected to be much
intoxicated, an appearance which the Major likewise
assumed, though for a very different purpose.

After some throws of the dice the Major's turn came.
We staked very large sums, which were eagerly accepted.
At the moment of throwing my friend gave the signal,
and instantly seized on the Major's hand. I flew to his
assistance, calling at the same time to the rest of the
company for their interference, asserting that the Major
had false dice and that we were ready to stake our lives
upon the issue of a strict examination.

Not a soul interfered in the dispute ; so that [we]
were left to contend with our adversary, who exerted all
his strength to withhold from us the proof of his villany.
After a severe scuffle, the violence of our exertions at
length brought us all to the ground near the sideboard,
from whence I snatched a knife and threatened the Major,
that if he did not instantly disclose what he had in his
hand I would cut it open. Finding it vain to contend
any longer, he at last complied, and we, with a mixture
of indignation and astonishment, discovered the object of
our search, namely a pair of dice, while those with which
the company played remained on the table.

Upon examination we found them to be so contrived
as never to throw seven ; a main which the Major

274 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

constantly called ; so that whatever chance he brought,
though apparently against him, Was in p fact -in his
favour. He took all the odds that were ofFeredlhim and
of course could never lose.

We now found it as difficult to protect the Major
from the rage of the company as we had before to
procure assistance against him. The majority were for
throwing him out of the window ; and indeed the poor
devil himself, almost dead with apprehension, seemed to
expect nothing but instant destruction. He pressed my
hand and begged for mercy. My compassion was
moved, which at once suppressed my resentment ; and
he was through my intercession, joined by that of my
friend, at length suffered to depart, after I had given him
a glass of wine to raise his drooping spirits and enable
him to find his way home.

That which generally happens at all gaming-tables,
in consequence of a scuffle, was precisely the case at
ours ; for not only all the money which the Major had
won, and lay before him on the table, disappeared, but
every individual of the company complained of having
been either cheated or robbed — for the truth of which I
can vouch with respect to one of the company, as on my
return home I found myself Hterally penniless.

I took care to get the false and the fair dice sealed up
by the groom-porter, in whose possession they were left
till the next day, when he had orders to deliver them
into the hands of Sir Charles B — ,^ the Steward of the

' Sir Chas. Bunbury, Bart., one of the Stewards of the Jockey Club,
the same who with Ralph Dutton and Thomas Panton conducted the
famous investigation in reference to the suspicious running of H.R.H.'s
Escape at Newmarket on two consecutive days in October 1 791. See
Huish, Memoirs of George IV.

RETURN TO LONDON. 275

Course, who produced them at the Jockey Club, of which
I was a member, and it happened that the Prince of
Wales dined with us that day. The implements were
handed about and every one had a fling at the unfortunate
Major : for among gamblers as well as among women,
reputation is of the most tender nature, and consequently
is injured, or perhaps utterly lost, by the smallest stain or
imputation.

The Prince highly commended our conduct : but at
the same time observed that had we failed in our attempt
to wrest from the Mai or the incontestible proof of his
fraudulent practice, we should probably have cause to
repent our enterprise.

The Maior, as we afterwards learned, set off, in about
a quarter of an hour after he had left us, for Falmouth,
where he embarked for Jamaica, in hopes of arriving
there in time to sell his property before his disgrace
should be known in that quarter of the globe. But not-
withstanding all his caution and expedition, the story got
the start of him ; and to his utter ruin, had even reached
the ears of his relation. Admiral G — , who would not
admit him into his presence.

Thus disgraced and disappointed, he re-embarked for
England, and died, as was generally supposed through
excessive grief and vexation, on his passage.

The races being now over, at which, contrary to my
usual custom, I met with some success, and having made
some necessary arrangements, I returned to London and
soon resumed my former course of life.

Mv next trip was to Newmarket, a glorious arena !
in which I had an opportunity of entering the lists

276 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

against Mr. F — / not in a political discussion or a
trial of oratorical powers, though in these I might have
made some proficiency had I availed myself of the very
favourable opportunities that presented themselves to me
on my first setting out in life, having been returned a
Member in the Irish Parliament at the early age of
eighteen ; a circumstance which induced me to apply
myself, for some time, to the study of the constitution,
laws and commerce of the country, with that degree of
attention and assiduity, which so important and arduous
a pursuit required : but the dissipated life into which I
afterwards plunged, soon put a period to this and every
other serious and laudable application.

But to return to Mr. P., there is not among his
most devoted friends a greater admirer of his genius,
talents and manly eloquence than I am : yet at that
time, his abilities as a statesman were not less conspicuous
than the dissipation of his manners. He could sit up a
whole night at a gaming table, and the next day make the
Treasury Bench shake by the force of arguments. In our
contest I paid a compliment of two thousand guineas to
his superior skill, and six thousand to several others of
the same party : among whom was H.R.H. the Duke of
Y — ,'^ so that the opposition was completely triumphant,
and levied a pretty severe fine on my purse.

Of all the severe losses I ever sustained, this was the
one I least regretted ; as I had not the most remote idea
of suspecting the honour or integrity of my antagonists.

The French Revolution, at this time, began to make

^ Charles James Fox. Amongst other well - known gamesters for
whom gambling provided an introduction to the Statesman was the famous
Casanova, whose life and general tastes bore a strong resemblance to those
of Thomas Whaley.

a Duke of York.

THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. 277

some noise in the world. All Europe had their attention
on the National Assembly. Our nation was particularly
respected by the French, and the Constitution of England
[was] looked upon as the best model for their intended
fabric.

This was the shield, under which the Orleans faction
covered their designs, and concealed the horrors and wide-
spreading evils they were then preparing for their ill-fated
country. Under the pretext of reformation they drew
to their party all those whose notions of hberty were
perfectly consistent with principles of the very best
constitution ; whilst the populace were enticed by the
abolition of titles and the sacrifice of a few privileges
which the faction could easily resume when their power
was once established. By these means they concentrated
the whole force of the kingdom, and at one blow, over-
turned a monarchy which had stood the test of so many
ages.

Amongst the many whom curiosity led to this won-
derful scene of action, I repaired to Paris in the year
1 79 1. On this occasion, and two more visits which I
afterwards paid to France, I was enabled to make some
observations on the infatuated people of that vast and
once flourishing empire.

With a considerable sum of money in my pocket, I
arrived at Paris, that epitome of the world, where great-
ness and meanness, riches and poverty, wisdom and folly,
are all to be met with in their highest degree.

This immense city has at all times been the rendezvous
and asylum of all the intriguers and desperadoes of
Europe. It was likewise the abode of the most cele-
brated artists, as well as the most learned, the most
opulent and most profligate of mankind.

2/8 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

Every person I saw wore, in some shape or other, the
tri-coloured ribband, as the symbol of Liberty. Through
all the provinces I observed a general fermentation among
the people ; but Paris was the focus whence emanated all
the rays of enthusiasm to the most distant parts of the
empire.

The Palais Royal was the general rendezvous of the
conspirators, of whom its proprietor was the chief Here
was laid the plan, and the hour fixed, for an insurrection
which was to be regulated by a signal from the Water-
works. In every part of the garden were groups of men,
each group, or separate body, had their particular orator,
thundering forth downfall and destruction to royalty.

This may be justly termed the volcano, from whose
baneful crater issued all the lava that desolated the finest
provinces in France ; and might with equal justice be
called the Academy of Sedition and Irreligion, where
pupils were taught to deny their God and disobey their
king.

Any person resolute enough to combat these doctrines
was sure of meeting with the grossest insults, and may
think himself peculiarly fortunate if he escaped with
life.

Chairs, tables and stools were converted into rostrums
from whence the Apostles of Sedition harangued their
tumultuous auditors : and here I cannot help expressing
my astonishment, that in such a nation as France then
was, a few thousands of incendiaries should be permitted
thus to deliberate on the subversion of the existing
government, and meditate the destruction of all those
who were inimical to their system.

My heart was wrung on beholding in the Thuilleries
the illustrious but unfortunate Royal family, who were

THE JACOBIN CLUB. 279

doomed soon to be the victims of this popular
effervescence.

When the most renowned monarch that ever go-
verned France erected that edifice, he Uttle imagined that
it should one day become the prison of the best and
mildest of his descendants, and that its doors should be
guarded by a band of miscreants many of whom had
tasted largely of the bounty of their august prisoners.

I often attended the sittings of the National Con-
vention, where I could discover nothing of that sober
dignity that might be expected from the representatives
of a great nation. On the contrary the most violent and
sanguinary measures were proposed and heard with
rapture ; and the promoter of these measures applauded
as one of the best and wisest legislators.

Mirabeau and the Abbe Maury were the two great
political combatants on this prize-fighting stage. A
French writer very justly remarks on the former " that he
was more famous than celebrated, more original than
eloquent, and equally actuated by avarice and ambition."
Totally lost to a sense of morality, he wanted even that
suavity of manners which might give a sort of gloss to
his vices ; and throughout his whole conduct manifested
a degree of savage fierceness and audacity never known
in any character before him.

He generally had the majority on his side, as the
violence of his doctrine was well adapted to the character
of his auditors, mostly composed of the Orleans faction.

But the Club of the Jacobins was the place where
the whole contents of Pandora's Box seemed concentrated.
Here the goddess of Liberty presided — not the mild
beneficent deity, under whose protecting arm and salutary
influence are experienced all those blessings and rational

28o WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

enjoyments, which man can reasonably expect or wish for
in a state of civil society — but a strumpet assuming her
name, and glorying in her attributes, in order to give a
sanction to her votaries for pillage, massacre and every
species of atrocity without control.

It is impossible to conceive an institution more
afflictive or more disgraceful to human nature than that
which had acquired for its title the Jacobin Club. An
assemblage of worthless wretches, who acknowledged no
God but Voltaire ; no religious code but that of the
visionary Rousseau ; no system of morality but that of
the apostate Raynal, nor political jurisdiction but that of
an assassin.

With these principles, they made, and are still making
war against all regular governments, and proscribing
without scruple all who are eminent for probity, virtue
or talents.

That such a mass of corruption should have been able
to erect itself, without control, into a supreme tribunal
within the metropolis of a vast empire ; that its members
should have established societies of their own order, in
almost all the large cities of Europe, organized bands of
robbers, prisoners and assassins, and shaken the thrones of
sovereigns to their very foundations ; that they should
have murdered their own King, his Royal Consort and
sister, and poisoned the young and innocent offspring of
sixty-six kings; in fine, [that] they should have been
tamely suffered to imprison, banish, pillage and massacre
all those who dared to oppose them, can only be accounted
for by supposing the most extraordinary resignation on
the one hand, and the most unparalleled audacity on the
other.

In this pandemonium I was desired to observe a little

MARAT. 28 r

man about five feet high, whose very aspect bespoke him
the arch-fiend of the diabolic assembly — this Marat !

Before the Revolution, he had no other way of sub-
sistence than that of vending herbs, which he affirmed to
be the production of certain mountains in Switzerland)
and, according to his account, possessed, in the most
eminent degree, all those sanative qualities ascribed to our
modern patent medicines.^

This man certainly had a most daring mind, and an
unblushing front. He was not to be disconcerted by
rebuffs, or intimidated by danger : in the prosecution of
his designs no compunctions of humanity ever obtruded
themselves to impede his progress.

From this infernal mansion I was impatient to depart,
and again to visit the haunts of men. I was soon intro-
duced to a society of a very different stamp, where I met
with agreeable women, good cheer and deep play. This
was the " Pavilion d'Hanovre," built by Marechal De
RicheUeu on his return from his campaigns in Germany.
It was then occupied by the Viscount C — , whose vices
and immorality were as conspicuous as his rank.

To this distinguished apostate I was introduced : and
as he had previously received some information concerning
me, he regulated his motions accordingly.

I was received with the highest degree of affability
and respect, and as he spoke English tolerably well, we
conversed for some time in that language ; after which he
introduced me to the ladies ; who were all expert at their
trade, and perfect mistresses of the art of seduction.
" Has milord been long in France ? " said one. " Does

1 Marat's diploma of Doctor of Medicine was conferred by the Univer-
sity of St. Andrews, Scotland, in 1775. The document is set out in full
by his latest apologist, Mr. E. Belfort Bax, at p. 61 of Jean Paul Marat,
The People's Friend, ed. 1901. Before going to Scotland, Marat seems to
have resided in Dublin for a year. Ibid. p. 25.

282 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

he propose to make any stay in it ? " says another. " It
cannot be for the purpose of learning the language,"
observed a third, " as he already speaks it with greater
purity than we do ourselves."

The men too, played off all the artillery of their wit
and politeness. They were all soi-disant men of fashion,
and talked much of their influence at court : but I after-
wards learned that they were a set of rascals, hired for the
same purpose as the women.

The only victims present were a counsellor of the
Parliament and myself, though the company consisted of
at least thirty. The counsellor was, according to the
phrase, entirely done up, having lost his whole fortune
left him by his father, 2. fermier-generale, which amounted
to upwards of ^300,000.

The dinner was served up with a display of profusion
and elegance, while the lively conversation of the ladies
gave the highest zest to our entertainment : for it must be
granted, that the French ladies surpass those of any other
nation in their agreeable manner of conversing and their
lively turns of imagination ; and in this opinion, I am
convinced all my countrymen who have visited France
will concur.

With the French, the manner is all in all ; and pro-
vided a thing be done with a good grace, the merits of it
form but a secondary consideration. A Frenchman offers
you his house, his table, his horses, and even his wife ;
and the last article is, perhaps, the only one he means you
should accept.

In France fashion governs everything ; and the spirit
of intrigue prevails so much among them, that a man of
the ton would be as much ashamed of even the appearance
of an attachment to his wife, as if [he] were detected in

THE RETURN OF THE KING. 283

any improper or dishonourable act. In other respects,
the French character, unsophisticated by the " Rights of
Man," is truly respectable. They are warm in friendship,
brave, generous and loyal to excess.

The good cheer and conviviality that prevailed at the
viscount's table was entirely to my taste. The first day I
played but little : nor indeed was I much pressed or
solicited : for as they saw that I nibbled at the bait, they
entertained no doubt but that I would soon swallow the
hook : nor were they deceived ; as in a few days after I
returned to the lure and in two sittings they contrived to
ease me of three thousand louis. This obliged me to pay
another visit to Ireland in order to recruit my purse.

The evening before I quitted Paris, I was present at
the return of the King, after having been stopped at
Varennes, by the order of Romoeuf, son of Tenant \sicY
to La Fayette and at that time his aide-de-camp.

Romoeuf on that day decided the fate of France ; and
the emigrants in London had the mortification of seeing
in that very city, for upwards of two years, the villain
who had the audacity to arrest his king and lead him to
prison, from whence he was never brought but to meet
the regicide judges and ascend the scaffold.

When the King's flight was known at Paris, an
universal consternation prevailed throughout the city.
Each party was apprehensive of some ill consequences
from the event ; though Garat in his Memoirs positively
asserts that the whole was previously known, and either
forwarded or connived at by all.

At three o'clock in the afternoon, I procured by the
help of a few louis d'ors, a seat in a sort of theatre, built
for the purpose at the Gate of the Thuilleries.

' ? sub-lieutenant.

284 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

A general order was issued that a profound silence
should be observed, and that no person, on any pretence,
should take off his hat. The King's carriage was sur-
rounded by National Guards, who formed an impenetrable
mass against bands of assassins said to be employed by
Orleans ; and his subsequent conduct proved that there
was just ground for this conjecture.

La Fayette encouraged the mob in the grossest insults
against the Royal family, and often repeated the order
that no one should uncover. This, however, did not
prevent me from lifting my hat as the King passed : for
which I should have paid dearly were it not for one of
the National Guards, who persuaded the sans culottes to
do me no injury by assuring them I was a mad Irishman.^

There were in the carriage with the Royal family
two of the commissaries, Barnave and Petion. The latter
had the Dauphin on his knee during the whole pro-
cession. La Tour Maubourg, the third commissary,
was in another carriage. On the box of the King's coach
were seated the two Gardes du Corps, young men of
family and fortune. They had their hands tied like the
vilest criminal, and their faces exposed to the scorching
sun, encountering wherever they turned their eyes, the
ferocious countenances of a set of miscreants who were
ready to tear them piecemeal for their attachment and
fidelity to the best of Kings.

One of these Gardes, as avant coureur, had got some
miles beyond Varennes when he heard [of] the King's
arrest ; and though he might have made his escape, yet
he could not for a moment entertain the idea of
abandoning his Royal master. His name was Vallory,
and I feel much pleasure in having it in my power to
1 Mad man. MS. No. 2.

I SELL AN ESTATE. 285

rescue from oblivion this act of generous loyalty in this
young man.

The King's return restored a temporary tranquillity to
the metropolis ; and I gladly availed myself of this calm,
to demand my passport, which was immediately granted.

In a short time after my arrival in Dublin I sold an
estate which produced me twenty-five thousand pounds ;
and having paid some debts and made a few necessary
purchases, I returned to Paris with fourteen thousand
pounds in my pocket.

I found this city in a state of greater tumult than
when I left it. The hirelings of faction grew every day
bolder and less restrained in their insults to the King. It
was at this time a horde of regicides, headed by St.
Huruge and Barras, broke into the palace, and though
they did not effect the horrid purpose for which there is
every reason to believe they were employed, yet every
outrage, short of murder, was committed against this
unfortunate family.

I shall not attempt to describe the heartrending scene
to which I myself was an eye-witness ; nor would any
language express the different sensations which alternately
took possession of my soul. Pity, rage, and loyalty
forced from me a torrent of tears, which a regard to self-
preservation should have induced me [to] suppress.

I beheld the unfortunate King full of mildness and
majesty, pitying and still loving his deluded subjects.
He was obliged to drink the health of those who sought
his blood, assassinated his amiable family, overturned his
throne, and deluged his fair kingdom with the blood of
its most noble inhabitants.

At length Petion, the Mayor of Paris, arrived, and
having harangued these brave citizens and applauded their

286 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

conduct, he had sufficient influence over them to persuade
them immediately to retire. Nor is this to be wondered
at, as he was the very person who had planned the
proceedings of that memorable day. But what renders
this man's character odious in the highest degree is, that
a few days before the tumult he had a conference with
the King, and received a large sum of money to induce
him to use his influence and authority in preventing any
outrage that may be attempted against the Royal family.

The next day I observed, in a printshop, a caricature
representing the Duke of Orleans playing at picquet with
the King. The Duke wore the bonnet rouge, and the
King appeared endeavouring to prevent his crown from
falling off his head. A label from the King's mouth
contained these words. " I have discarded the Hearts :
He has all the Spades " — in French, " Piques" which
means both " Spades " at cards and " Pikes " as a weapon
— " I've lost the Game."

While I was reflecting on this severe sarcasm, I
recognized a person whom I had often seen at Marseilles
and London. He once possessed a very considerable
fortune, which in early youth he squandered, and was
now reduced to the necessity of living on the fruits of an
experience dearly bought ; of which he so well availed
himself that he supported the appearance and, what is
much more extraordinary, the character of a gentleman ;
having never been known, by any voluntary act, to incur
the imputation of meanness or dishonesty. In the course
of my acquaintance with him, I had many opportunities
of proving the sincerity of his friendship and the strict-
ness of his principles as a man of true honour and
integrity.

His knowledge of mankind was extensive : and as he

THE SCIENCE OF KNAVERY. 287

was admitted into all societies, he was equally conversant
in the tricks and frauds practised by adventurers both in
high and low life.

After some general conversation, he asked how long I
had been at Paris. Upon which I told him I wfas just
returned from Dublin, and related to him the cause of my
journey. " It was very unlucky," said he, " that I
happened not [to] be in Paris at the time, or I might
have prevented your falling into the hands of the Philis-
tines : but," continued he, " pardon me the expression,
you seem born to be continually a dupe — I shall prove it
to you whenever you please — and it is vain to contend
with fate."

" That may very virell be," replied I, " but at all
events come and breakfast with me to-morrow morning."
We parted for the present, and in the morning my
friend was announced before I was out of bed.

After breakfast the subject of our conversation the
preceding day was resumed, and I detailed to him the
several severe losses I had sustained at the Pavilion of
Hanover.

" My dear W — " he exclaimed " it is astonishing
that you are yet to learn that within these ten years the
practice of knavery has been reduced into a regular
science. That it has infected all societies and that you
cannot go into any house of high or low degree without
meeting with swarms of adventurers, whose whole study,
day and night, is how they may plunder their neighbours
with impunity. I know them all by their names, titles
and degree of proficiency. I may easily guard you
against their different modes of deception. You must
consider that in Paris you cannot find deep play, unless
it be at a very great disadvantage.

288 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

"The games which are generally introduced in
polite circles are pharo and rouge et noir, at which the
holders of the bank have so great an advantage that it
is impossible but a punter must be a loser in the course
of a month, let him play with ever so much caution
and even apparent success."

" If that be the case," then said I, " 'tis astonishing
that there are so many players at a game, so decidedly
against them."

" You are to consider," replied my friend, " that it
is not every person who can command a sufficient
capital to set up a bank ; and many who can are deterred
by the greatness of the stake, as it requires no less than
five or six thousand pounds, not considering that they
lose little by little, as punters, what would be sufficient
to establish a bank.

" Besides, there are various motives and many induce-
ments to gaming. Some enter into it from a natural
inclination, without once considering whether the chances
are for or against them. Others out of indolence, not
knowing how else to employ their time, and many
whose affairs are deranged or fortunes ruined, hope by
some lucky run to retrieve their affairs. You will like-
wise find great numbers who frequent these places merely
for the good cheer that is to be found in them ; though
they might regale themselves on much more reasonable
terms at any tavern in town. — All these can only be
punters.

" The ostensible holders of the bank are generally
low fellows ; gamblers by profession and adepts in their
art. They are of obscure family, and most of them have
obtained by swindling the very capital which constitutes
their sole establishment.

STARTING A BANK. 289

" With these swindlers people of property have of
late years associated themselves, thinking it an excellent
method to let their money out to advantage."

" You seem," said I, " to have a complete knowledge
of the business ; but if the advantage be so great, why
do not you yourself hold a bank .? "

" For a very good reason, the want of means,"
answered he. I told him that I had a capital more than
sufficient for the purpose, and that I would readily embark
in it, if I thought it would succeed. He said he would
answer for the success : but that it would be necessary, in
case of such an establishment, to have a confidential person
whose business it would be to watch with the strictest
attention over those who deal and play. " For you must
know," continued he, " that it is not here as in London,
where people of rank and character undertake that office.

" In Paris, a gentleman would think himself dis-
graced by such an employment. The bank holders are
therefore under the necessity of employing poor wretches
for this purpose, who are paid a couple of louis a night
for their trouble : and as they are fellows devoid of
the principles of honour and integrity they are often
bribed by sharpers to cheat their employers. But if
you be determined to put your design into execution,
I shall take care to guard against them, as I am perfectly
well acquainted with all their tricks.

" The ancient chancellerie of the Duke of Orleans is
now to be let ; a most commodious situation for our
purpose ; and you will find there an excellent cook, a
character of no small importance in our household ;
for the votaries in these temples pay the most devout
homage to those altars where the richest morceaux and
the most delicate viands abound."

290 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

After this disquisition I gave him unlimited powers
to arrange every thing relative to the business, and
assured him that the money should be forthcoming
when required.

Thus empowered my friend set to work, and in a
few days we made every necessary arrangement and
opened shop : nor were we long without customers ;
to the increase and continuance of which the skill of
our cook contributed not a little.

I received, for two months, the genteelest and most
numerous company ever met with in Paris on such
occasions, and gained by this speculation about fifty
thousand pounds,^ part of which was expended in
entertainments.

' Altered from fifty to fifteen in MS. No. 2.

CHAPTER VI.

A Journey to Switzerland — Lausanne — The Glaciers — Mh B. — Some
Observations on the Swiss — Their Candour — Their Bravery — Their
Honesty — National Honour — Public Justice — Geneva — Milan —
Florence — Rome — Some Reflections on Italy,

The troubles in Paris increasing daily, and the season
for going to Switzerland approaching, our punters fell off
by degrees, many of whom went to join the emigrant
princes. I therefore determined to visit Switzerland, and
accordingly mounted my carriage : I had, besides, four
others that followed me, with an immense retinue, not
forgetting my cook and thirty led horses.

My purse was considerably diminished, notwith-
standing the success of my bank.

'Tis true there was due to me twenty-five thousand
pounds, a. shilling of which, in all probability, I shall
never touch — thanks to the Revolution, which deprived
my debtors of the means of payment.

On my route I was often stopped and examined by the
sans culottes, who were now the supreme rulers ; but at
length I arrived without any accident at Lausanne, the
general rendezvous of foreigners who visit Switzerland.
At that time it was full of genteel company, and though
I did not stake a single crown at play, I contrived to
amuse myself tolerably well.

My first object was to set my French cook to work,
whose rare talents I did not suffer to remain unemployed,

u 2

292 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

as I kept open table for strangers in general, but more
particularly for my own countrymen. Scarce an evening
passed but we had a tea-party and a ball, at which was
always present a number of beautiful and accomplished
women, many of whom were of the first quality. Among
those who honoured me with their presence, were the
Princess Loubomeski,^ formerly the favourite of the King
of Poland, and the Princess Joseph de Monaco, both of
whom have since been guillotined at Paris, whither they
went contrary to the advice and remonstrances of all their
friends.

Besides these, I was often visited by the Russian
Princess Bellouski, with her intimate friend Miss
Cassenove, and Miss de'Apraxim, who had been accused
and convicted of polygamy.'' But when the Duchess of
D — ' honoured those assemblies with her presence she at
■once attracted the attention and admiration of the
company by the beauty of her person and her mental
accomplishments.

From this charming society I separated, with reluc-
tance, in consequence of a resolution I had formed of
making a tour round the glaciers and of endeavouring if
possible, to ascend Mount Blanc. In my route I had the
pleasure of meeting Lord Charles T — and Mr. B — ■, the
former of whom has since lost his life in a manner
peculiarly unfortunate : an event which I can never re-
member but with extreme concern, having conceived for
him a most sincere friendship and esteem, founded upon a
knowledge of his merit and distinguished virtues.

I shall not attempt a description of the glaciers and

^ ? Lubomirski.

^ MS. No. 2 reads " Miss C — and Miss D'A — daughter or the
Count D'A — who had been accused, etc.'*

^ Devonshire, as appears by Cloncurry's Personal Recollections.

THE SWISS ALPS. 293

Mount Blanc ; but refer my readers to the account given
by Monsieur de Sausure/ who expended a considerable
part of his fortune in the most dangerous attempts to dis-
cover whatever was rare or worthy of observation in those
grand wonders of nature. He has composed a scientific
work about the Alps ; in which he gives their altitude,
describes the immense masses of snow which cover them,
with some learned conjectures about their probable
duration ; ascertains the weight of the air and gives a
minute account of the fossils and metals contained in the
bowels of those vast mountains.

He is the only man who has acquired the glory of
attaining the summit of Mount Blanc, where he has left a
bottle containing a paper with his name inscribed on it.

The reading of his work filled my mind with a desire
of doing the same, and of paying homage to this great
man, by placing my name next to this bottle. But
whether it was not the proper season, or that the weather
was unusually severe, we had not proceeded above two-
thirds of the ascent when, owing to a violent shower of
hail, a mass of snow detached itself from the mountain
and killed two of our guides, which so intimidated the
rest that it was impossible to prevail on them to proceed
one step farther ; as they aiBrmed that the snow would
soon fall in such masses as would inevitably overwhelm us
all. I was now left alone with Lord Charles, and after
some deliberation we determined to join our cowardly
attendants ; as any attempt to proceed without them
would be vain.

We therefore returned to Lausanne, and the next day
I received an invitation to a ball given by the Princess
B . Besides the pleasure I took in dancing, I

1 Saussure (H. B. de), Foyages dans les Alpes : two vols. Neufchatel,
1779-86.

294 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

found myself induced, by another motive of a more
powerful ascendancy, to accept this invitation. Miss E.
the friend and companion of the Princess, was rich only
in the gifts of nature, improved by accomplishments, the
chief of which were music and painting, in which she
eminently excelled. With these natural and acquired
advantages, she began her career of conquests, in hopes of
procuring a husband who might make amends for her
only deficiency.

It is natural to suppose, that a young man of my turn
could not long remain insensible to so many attractions,
and I made no scruple of telling her so. My assiduities
were not rejected. I ventured a love-declaration in
writing, to which she vouchsafed such an answer as
induced a regular correspondence highly pleasing to me.
But all my endeavours to procure a private interview
were inelfectual, as I never could see her but in the
company of her patroness ; and I could plainly perceive
that both of them meant I should be indebted to Hymen
for what I hoped to obtain by means of love alone.

However, I still continued my assiduities in hopes of
turning to my advantage the first favourable opportunity.
But as none offered, I gave up the pursuit ; nor did I
suffer much pain from the disappointment.
I At Evian, a small town of Savoy on the borders of

the lake, lived at that time an English gentleman,
remarkable for his literary talents, his immense fortune,
and still more so by the imputation of a crime which has
been alleged against him, of a nature so horrible, that I
wish to draw a veil over it, scarcely believing it possible
that a man so amiable in every respect could ever have
been so depraved.

The bare accusation, however, has obliged him to
quit his native country, where such a crime is looked

WILLIAM BECKFORD. 295

upon with a degree of abhorrence equal to its enormity.
I shall not hazard any farther opinion respecting this
extraordinary charge against him, but merely relate a
conversation that passed between him and a friend of
mine who was on a very intimate footing with him.

One day in a tete a tete my friend ventured to touch
on the awful subject, or the suspicion entertained by the
world against him. Mr. B — 1 solemnly declared that it
was nothing but mere suspicion ; and that he would not
exist an hour under a consciousness of having wilfully
given cause or grounds for such a suspicion, and hoped
that time would manifest to the world a much clearer
proof of his innocence than ever was adduced of his
guilt.'

But to return to the ball. After a few country
dances, the Princess proposed that the whole party,
consisting of the Princess L — , the family of the
Apraxims, the two Princes Camille, Jules and the writer
of these memoirs, should pay a visit to Mr. B — , which
was unanimously agreed to : and accordingly the next
morning we all embarked to cross the lake ; and after
two hours pleasant navigation arrived at Evian. The
Prince Camille, who was very intimate with Mr. B — ,
introduced us severally. And I do not think, that I ever
saw a man of a more captivating exterior than our host :
nor did he appear less indebted to nature for the endow-
ments of his mind, for during the twenty-four hours
that we passed with him, we were constantly entertained
with something new and interesting in his conversation.

The dinner was sumptuous, and served with the
utmost taste and elegance : during the repast we were
entertained with a concert, performed by a select band

1 William Beckford (1759-1844), author of Vathek, and other works.
* See Appendix.

296 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

of twenty-four musicians, which he keeps constantly in
his pay. When we had taken our coffee, Mr. B— gave
us several airs of his own composition, on the piano-
forte, which he touched with masterly execution and
exquisite taste.

Afterwards the carriages were announced : the whole
company were conveyed in coaches-and-four, and on about
twenty saddle-horses, to the distance of about four miles,
where we arrived at a most delightful wood, in the midst
of which was a garden laid out in the English taste,
adorned with statues, and here and there with clumps of
the most odoriferous flowering shrubs.

Here, while we sauntered, our ears were often unex-
pectedly struck with the softest music, the performers of
which were to us invisible, and the sounds were rever-
berated, with ravishing melody, by the echoing mountains
which surrounded us, so that the whole appeared the
effect of enchantment.

On our return to the house we were presented with
tea and sweetmeats, the whole concluding with a ball, at
which this admirable exile shewed himself as great an
adept in dancing as he had before done in music. Our
amusements continued till morning, when we all re-
embarked on our return to Lausanne, after taking leave of
our kind host, who expressed his hopes that we would
often favour him with our company in his retirement.

During our passage across the lake, nothing was talked
of but this modern Anacreontic LucuUus.

The ladies were very lavish in his praise, not knowing,
or seeming to know, anything of the cause which
brought him to his present abode. They all agreed that
the woman who could inspire him with love, must be the
envy of her sex ; while each, perhaps, fancied herself the
only one who stood a chance for such a distinction.

THE DUCHESS OF D— . 297

One young lady in particular seemed to be of that
opinion ; but she laid her snares with so little caution
and address, that Mr. B — who was a wary bird, easily
escaped being entangled ; and he proved to her, by
his very particular attention and cold civilities that
marriage was not [so] attracting a lure as the young lady
expected.

The next morning I paid a visit to the Duchess of
D — , accompanied by two of the ladies who were of the
party the preceding day ; where I found a large company ;
and close to her ladyship, as usual, her two faithful
attendants. I cannot pass over what appeared to me a
peculiarity in this distinguished lady, which is, that she
gives to all persons introduced to her, a gracious recep-
tion : nor can she by any coldness of manners or sarcastic
mode of civility, drive any one from her presence, however
disagreeable in manners or conversation.

Of this weakness, and an amiable weakness it must
surely be allowed, two old gentlemen, and both con-
spicuous characters, took advantage, and were as constant
at her levee as her attendants. When I entered the room
and saw her thus attended, it instantly brought to my
mind the picture of Susanna between the two elders.^

The one was a Swiss physician, in his person the very
transcript of Don Quixote, and a Thomas Diafoirus^ in
his conversation. He had raised his reputation a little
by the publication of a sort of medical nomenclature ;
though in his own practice he prescribed but one remedy
for all diseases, and as his patients were of the beau monde,

1 There is a copy in the Library of Trinity College, Dublin, of the
Catalogue of the " Cabinet and Gallery Pictures " sold by auction on the
2 1st and 22nd June, 1849, at No. 86 Stephen's Green, which mentions a
picture (lot 67) of ** Susannah and the Elders " after Guercino, of which
Whaley was possibly thinking here.

* Moliere — Malade Imaginaire.

298 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

whose disorders were, for the most part, imaginary, he
was tolerably successful.

The other was the most renowned and most volu-
minous historian of our age ; -^ but whatever pleasure the
reading of his works may afford, it was more than
counterbalanced by the insipidity of his conversation.

Some of the company made inquiries concerning our
expedition to Evian, and when I had related the par-
ticulars, the historian observed, with a truly pedantic air,
" that it was astonishing any Englishman would visit
a man who lay under such an imputation as Mr. B —
did : that even supposing him innocent still some regard
was due to the opinion of the world ; and he would venture
to say, that I was the only one among my countrymen
who had ever paid that man the smallest attention since
his banishment." The only reply I made to his im-
pertinent animadversion was, that I did not look upon
this little piece of history as any way deserving the
attention of so great a man.

The Duchess complacently smiled : the rest of the
company looked grave ; my pedant was dumb, and I took
my leave.

The season for enjoying Switzerland being nearly over,
I prepared for my departure. But before I quit it I shall
take the liberty of saying a few words concerning the
character of that nation, described by so many authors ;
and this I do, because the observations I have made differ
so materially from all the accounts I have read.

It is certain that at present no trace can be discovered
of the cotemporaries of William Tell. All those who
have given any account of Switzerland are lavish in their
descriptions of the beauties of the country, where nature

' Ed. Gibbon.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE SWISS. 299

is permitted to indulge herself in all her native grandeur
and majesty, unrestrained by the intrusive hand of art.

The inhabitants are represented [as] candid, brave and
laborious, faithful and steady in their friendship, and
always ready to sacrifice their lives in support of their
country's honour. The women are said to be handsome,
domestic, virtuous, without any propensity to expensive
pleasures.

I confess that I had not penetration enough to discover
these rare perfections during my residence among them.
And as to their frankness and candour, they appeared to
me rather boorish, except when they have any point to
carry and then they are all civility and complaisance ; but
not in the least degree more candid on that account. And
since the Canton of Berne has taken upon itself to regulate
the others, whatever degree of candour they might have
possessed before is considerably diminished, owing to the
electioneering intrigues carried on previous to the nomi-
nation of magistrates.

They are said to be brave — true ; if a sort of
mechanical courage, hired out to the best bidder, can be
called bravery. But I never saw in them any instance of
that true courage, which consists in a jealous sense of
honour and a congenial warmth in the cause of friendship.
When they fight among themselves, it is with sticks ; and
as they never engage upon equal terms, the contest is soon
decided by the weak yielding to the strong. The
peasants and mechanics spend half the day in eating
and their nights at the tavern. In fact none among them
can be justly called laborious but the women. They
indeed are never idle, and seem only to hold the place of
upper servants in the family.

I have heard the Swiss praised for their honesty. To
this I shall only say, that upon entering Switzerland, I

300 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

was particularly cautioned to beware of the roguery of
servants ; which salutary advice I did not attend to, and
suffered accordingly.

As to the sacrifices they are always ready to make in
support of the honour of their country, the French
Revolution affords a sufficient answer. Never was a
people so degraded and insulted as the Swiss were upon
that occasion. It cannot be forgotten that the regiment
of Wallwill [sky was disarmed at Aix in Provence by
the National Guard, and shamefully driven home — a
direct infringement of the rights of treaties and the laws
of nations. And when the Swiss Guards were massacred
at Paris, and the brave Major Bachman executed on a
public scaffold, the silence of the thirteen Cantons upon
these events convinced the revolutionists that they might
have effected any attempt they pleased against that nation
with impunity.

That Switzerland, after the efforts she had made to
shake off the imperial yoke and erect herself into a
republic, should not have turned her arms against France,
while pursuing a similar object, is in no way surprising :
on the contrary, it was rather to be expected that she
would rather have assisted, from motives of religion and
policy, in bringing about the Revolution. But that any
regular government should tamely submit to the grossest
insults without making one attempt to obtain redress,
exceeds credibility, and is not to be paralleled in ancient
or modern history.

They have even gone further : they have received
into their States an ambassador from the Jacobins, citizen

1 Whaley evidently refers to Major de Watteville, the commanding
officer of the Bernese regiment of Ernst, which laid down arms, and sur-
rendered to a band of desperate Marsillians in February, 1 792. See Planta, J.,
History of the Helvetic Confederation^ ii. 336-7. Lond. 1800.

SWISS JUSTICE. 301

Barthelemy, a political camelion, [who] has successively
dictated to them the orders he received either from
Orleans or Brissot, CoUot de Herbois or Robespierre,
Madame Tallien or the Five Kings ; and they have
constantly bent with the most abject submission under
the yoke of those tyrants. Some individuals have even
given up their crosses of the order of St. Lewis, in direct
violation of the oath they had taken on receiving it.

Their strict administration of justice has been much
extolled — the following instance will shew how justly.
In travelling through the country, I stopped at Schaff-
hausen to spend the night. Our supper, for two,
consisted of milk porridge, four eggs, some middling
kind of bread, and a pint of excellent wine. Our
chamber and beds every way corresponded with this
delicious fare. In the morning our conscientious host
made no scruple of charging thirty-six livres for our
supper and beds. The charge was truly exorbitant ; yet
to avoid any sort of altercation, I threw a louis on the
table, declaring that I would pay no more. But as he
still persisted in demanding the full amount of his charge,
I at length said to him, " Surely, my friend, there is
justice to be had in this country. I insist upon going
immediately to the magistrate." " You need not go far,
then," said mine host dryly, " I am the magistrate, and if
you once oblige me to assume the magisterial character I
shall make you pay double for your contumacy." In fact,
it was the burgomaster of the town I had to deal with,
and I was under the necessity of satisfying his rapacity as
an innkeeper to escape his injustice as a magistrate.

I read in the public papers that the French had
violated the territory of the Grisons, by which circum-
stance the Cantons became at the mercy of the French

302 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

Republic, the first consequence of which was an order to
banish all French emigrants out of the country. These
people had never been a burden to the Swiss : on the con-
trary, they had expended considerable sums of money
among them ; and to this alone they were indebted for
the favourable reception they met with.

As to the women, they are much the same in Switzer-
land as in other places. At Berne, Zurich and Soleure,i
you see them all dressed in the English or French
fashions. In love intrigues they are in no way inferior to
their neighbours ; and the readiest way to gain your point
with a Swiss lady is by splendid entertainments or
presents. When a young lady in Switzerland, as is often
the case, becomes a mother before she is a wife, the lover
is obliged to pay a certain sum of money unless he
chooses to marry, which effectually seals up the lips of her
relations and in some degree patches up her tattered
reputation.

I cannot conclude these observations without briefly
mentioning an establishment called the Matte, which is
sanctioned by Government. This consists of public baths,
where prostitutes are hired out at stated fares like our
hackney coaches. A State that encourages such an insti-
tution certainly cannot boast much of its attention to the
morals of youth.

For the present we shall take leave of the Helvetic
States and turn our attention to Geneva, whose restless
disposition has produced a number of revolutions in a very
short space of time.

These revolutions were set on foot by foreign powers,
in hopes of gaining possession of that rich and industrious
city, and seconded by bribed incendiaries within. On

1 The French form of Solothurn.

GENEVA. 303

my entrance into the town, I was struck with a scene
truly afflicting.

As the French had just entered Chambery, about
five or six thousand emigrants, French and Savoyards,
had taken refuge in Geneva. Among these were
numbers of priests, women, and children, covered with
mud and miserably drenched in rain, having been exposed
to all the inclemency of a most tempestuous night.

These poor wretches stood shivering in the streets
and not one dared to afford them the least shelter or
relief ; neither could they pursue their journey by land
to Switzerland, as the little town of Versoix was at that
time garrisoned by the French. They had therefore no
way or means of arriving there but by crossing the lake,
which was attended by many difficulties, as there were
but few boats and for these the Genevese charged most
exorbitant prices, well knowing these unfortunate people
were entirely at their mercy.

Chambery being then in the hands of the French,
which prevented me from passing over Mt. Cenis, I
hired a large boat to take me across the lake back again
to Lausanne ; from whence it was my intention to pass
through the Tyrolese into Italy.

We had scarcely proceeded a quarter of a league
when we perceived a dozen boats coming out of the
port of Versoix, forming a sort of line across the lake ;
and at the same time, saw a small one approaching us
from Geneva ; upon which we lay to till she came up
alongside. In this I met two friends, who advised me
by no means to continue my voyage ; as the French,
whom I saw were a banditti, determined to pillage all
who fell in their way.

As I had a number of emigrants with me, to whom

304 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

I had granted a passage, and knew that my danger would
be encreased by having them on board, I determined to
return and risk going by land to Lausanne, which I at
last accomplished after having been stopped at Versoix,
but upon producing my passport I was suffered to
proceed.
/ When I arrived at Lausanne I learned that Mr. B.i

had quitted his retirement at Evian,^ not choosing to
reside in any place occupied by the French, and had
hired a house for three months at Lausanne ; but the
very day of his arrival he was given to understand by
a peremptory message from Monsieur L. Baron de E.,
then Bailiff of the town, that he must immediately
depart, and that if he or any of his people were to be
found there by seven the morning following, they should
be taken ,into custody.

An order so severe, and conveyed in such harsh
terms, excited much surprise ; but Mr. B. thought it
most prudent to obey. The reason alleged for this
extraordinary conduct was that Mr. B. was suspected of
having, by means of a considerable sum of money,
favoured the escape of a prisoner, who had been confined
upwards of twenty years on conviction of being the
chief in forming a conspiracy at Rolles, the object of
which was that of detaching this bailiwick from its
dependance on Berne and of delivering it into the hands
of the French.

It is certain that the prisoner made his escape at that
time : but I cannot persuade myself that Mr. B. took any
part in the business, as he must be convinced that nothing
could result from his interference in that affair, but the
hatred and animosity of those very people among whom

1 Beckford. ' See Appendix, Extract from Beckford's Letters.

IN ITALY. 305

he meant to fix his residence. But what surprises me
the most is that Mr. B. never made any application to
our court for redress against so gross an insult offered
to a British subject. But probably he conceived that
an application of that sort would be attended with so
much trouble and humiliation, that his proud and inde-
pendent spirit could not stoop to hazard the attempt. ^^__/

I now bade my last adieu to Switzerland : and after
having visited the famous Waterfall of the Rhine, about
half a league from Schaffhausen, I continued my route
through the Tyrolese, as far as Milan without making
any stop, except at Trent, situated at the foot of the
Alps, famous for the general Council called the Council
of Trent, which lasted eighteen years, and whose decision
forms the basis on which the principal tenets of the
Popish religion are founded.

At Milan I spent three weeks in admiring one of
the largest and most magnificent cities of Italy. The
metropolitan church particularly engaged my attention ;
an undertaking so stupendous that it is not yet finished,
though workmen are continually employed in the prose-
cution of it.

This city has been long very populous, and is now
become the residence of some of the first families in the
country. They have lately completed a most superb
promenade, which commands prospects far surpassing, in
point of elegance and variety, any I ever saw.

From Milan I proceeded to Bologna, where I
remained some days wholly occupied in viewing the
works of the most eminent masters in painting and sculp-
ture, and at length reached Florence with an intention of
spending some time with my friend Lord H — \ then
ambassador at the Court of Tuscany.

1 Lord Hervey.

3o6 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

On my arrival I lost no time in waiting upon his
lordship, who received me with all the cordiality of an
old friend, and as such introduced me to his lady, one of
the most amiable and accomplished of her sex. Here I
had the good fortune of meeting again the Duchess of
D — , who had the goodness to remember that she had
formerly done me the honour of admitting me into her
society at Lausanne.

In this charming society I passed my time in the
most agreeable manner. The mornings I generally
devoted to visiting every object that appeared most
worthy observation, the chief of which is certainly the
Meridian at the Cathedral, one of the finest pieces of
mechanism in the world. My evenings I constantly
passed in the charming and fascinating society I met at
our ambassador's.

But in pursuance of my itinerant plan, I was obliged
to quit them, though with extreme regret. Previous to
my departure, I sold my carriages and horses to Lord
H — ' for two thousand one hundred pounds, on condition
that I should be paid at the death of his father. The
father, however, is still living, and the son dead ; so that
if the surviving brother who was then at Florence, and
knows the whole transaction, should not think proper to
pay me at the stipulated time, I must add this to the Ust
of my bad bargains which, considering my present
circumstances, is already by much too long.

After having visited and taken leave of all my friends,
I set out for Rome.

There have been so many accounts of this famous and
ancient city, and every thing it contains so minutely
described by writers of the first distinction, that I shall
not take up the reader's time with any observations of

^ See p. 305, n.

REFLECTIONS ON ITALY. 307

my own upon it, but merely intimate that, for the two
months I remained there, I always found something new
to admire, though I generally spent eight hours every
day in viewing whatever [was] worthy the notice of a
traveller.

From Rome it was my intention to go to Naples,
when I received a letter from my attorney at Paris, with
whom I had left an account of what was due to me,
amounting to twenty-five thousand pounds, as I have
already mentioned. He informed me that if I did not
use the utmost expedition, I should probably lose the
whole, as the time limited for the creditors of
emigrants to lay in their claims was nearly expired. I
therefore made what speed I could to Leghorn, where
I embarked in an open boat, not finding any better
conveyance.

In quitting the Italian coast some reflections involun-
tarily occurred to me on the present inhabitants of a
country so renowned for the arts, the eminent men it has
produced, and the number of its revolutions. Their
language, once so copious and sublime, which formed
the standard of perfection throughout the known world,
is now frittered into a mere sing-song ; and the ancient
Romans, who by their bravery and wisdom gave laws to
Europe, who were both fertile in imagining and quick in
executing the most arduous and wonderful undertakings,
are now succeeded by a race of effeminate, cowardly and
superstitious bigots.

Everything in Italy is tinctured with superstition ; it
pervades their palaces, the chambers of their coquettes,
the lectures of their pretended philosophers, and stalks
abroad in their streets and on their highways, polluting
the fountain of true and sacred religion.

X 2

3o8 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

The Italian women are by nature coquettes, and of
course intriguing and inconstant. They do not think
themselves truly beloved unless the gallant be ready and
willing to commit any the most atrocious crime for their
sake. Far different from the English and French in this
respect ; the former content themselves with laying their
lovers under contribution, and in France he is most likely
to succeed who can play the fop, or man of the world,
with the best grace.

We had scarce sailed fifteen miles when we were
overtaken by a violent storm, which obliged us to take
shelter in the port of Spezzia, one of the largest and
finest in the world. It is so large that five fleets of two
or three hundred sail each may ride in it with safety
and convenience. The observation " that a storm is
succeeded by a calm " was verified with us : we took
advantage of it, and with the help of our oars arrived
safely at Antibes. Here I quitted the vessel, and
travelled on through Nice, to Marseilles, from whence
I proceeded directly to Paris.

CHAPTER VII.

My Return to Paris — The Valois Club — The King's Trial— His Death
— The Duke of Orleans — A Duel — fegalite — Lisle — Brussels — The
Theatre — Calais — A Journey to Ostend — to Dover — to London
— Conclusion.

The morning after my arrival O — T — entered my
room and informed my companion and me that there was
much danger in walking the streets, and advised us to be
upon our guard. As I thought it would be an imputation
on my courage to keep within doors on that account, I
was determined not to regard his injunctions, be the
consequence what it might. This was the very point
he wished to gain. Danger there was indeed, but not of
the nature he represented.

After we had dined and drank pretty freely, we went
together to the Valois Club, where I found the Count
A — D — ,^ general of the Sans-culottes, G — ' a Spanish
count, then Commissary-at-War, both of whom have
been since guillotined, and the Chevalier de St. M— .
This party prevailed on me to play at hazard, and in the
course of the evening I lost two thousand louts dors in
ready money, and two thousand more on my parole.

At six o'clock in the morning I found my way home,
perplexed and stupified with my losses, and cursing that
infatuation, which was continually involving me in new
distresses.

My situation was certainly as deplorable as could be
imagined — in a city where no person could be secure for

1 Arthur Dillon. ^ ? Gabbarus.

310 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

a moment, and deprived of every means of quitting it :
but what still encreased my apprehensions and embarrass-
ment was, that a war was on the eve of breaking out
between England and France. In this emergency I
determined on sending my fair friend to England to
procure me some money, if possible. It was agreed that
she should turn into cash what jewels she had, part
of which would bear her expenses to England, and the
remainder was to be left with me.

Everything being settled according to this plan, she
departed accompanied only by her servant, leaving with
me our little boy Tom, who had been my companion
in all my travels, and a footman. I then threw myself
on the bed and remained some time overwhelmed with
grief and vexation, during which an accident happened
to her which proved the danger of appearing at that
time in the streets of Paris.

Mrs. W — 1 had scarce left me and prepared to get into
the carriage, when a rascal who had been my valet de
chambre, and whom I had dismissed from my service for
having robbed me, and to whom I did not owe a sixpence,
instantly raised a mob around her by exclaiming that she
was an aristocrat, and that her motive for absconding was
to evade paying him fifty louis due of his wages.

Had he accused her of being a thief or a murderer, she
might, in all probability, have passed unmolested : but to
be an aristocrat precluded all chance of mercy, and she
must inevitably have been torn to pieces, if, fortunately, a
member of the National Assembly had not passed by at
that moment, and rescued her from the hands of those

' The only occasion on which she is so described. MS. No. 2 here
reads " my fair friend," but the small " m " of " my " is written over a
capital M in such a way as to suggest that the writer was beginning to
write Mrs. W — but changed his mind.

THE TRIAL OF LOUIS XVI. 311

furies. This, however, he could not effect till he had
paid the fifty louis to the villain who had excited the
tumult, after which he conducted her safe to her carriage
and took his leave.

I endeavoured to find out who the generous person
was, to whom I was so much indebted, and discharge at
least the pecuniary part of the obligation ; but I could
never discover him. Since my return to England I
learned that his name is Monsieur de Naublanc, now a
member of the Council of Five Hundred, and who has
lately so eminently distinguished himself by pleading the
cause of the oppressed and unfortunate.

The next morning I received a letter from A — D — ,'
in which he proposed that if it was not in my power
to pay the two thousand louis d'ors I had lost to him,
he would content himself with my note oi hand payable
in three months ; to which I replied, that as I had sent
to England for money, [and] I hoped to pay him before
the expiration of that time, any such engagement appeared
to me totally useless and unnecessary.

At that time Paris was in a state of the most dreadful
consternation. The trial of the King had commenced,
and all minds were intent upon the issue : but no one
dare communicate his thoughts to another. All was
distrust, and gloomy silence, in a city once the seat of
mirth and noisy festivity. But though the anxiety as to
the event of the trial was general, yet the motives that
actuated each party were very different. Good men were
struck with the horror of what they had but too much
reason to apprehend, and bloodthirsty miscreants feared
that their rage might be disappointed.

At length the regicide Assembly passed the horrible

1 Arthur Dillon.

312 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

decree and doomed the unfortunate Louis to an igno-
minious death. I saw Garat, the Minister of Justice,
Le Brun, Minister for Foreign Affairs, and Gourvelle,
Secretary of the Council, mount the carriage pale and
trembling, like so many culprits, charged with the awful
commission of announcing to the King a sentence which
was at once a mockery of justice and a disgrace to human
nature.

I shall pass over everything relative to what happened
within the walls of the temple, of which so many
contradictory accounts have been given, and confine
myself to what fell within my own observation.

After I had seen, with heartfelt indignation, the
three wretches depart on their mission, I went to an
appointment I had made with one of my friends at the
Cafe de Foix. I had scarce entered the room when
I saw two men approach, armed with sabres and pistols,
exclaiming and repeating many times " Let all join with
us who wish to save our unfortunate monarch." To this
no answer was made ; and while I was reflecting on so
strange an occurrence, my friend arrived and we soon
retired to our hotel.

The next day was the memorable twenty-first of
January, 1793. At nine in the morning, habited Hke a
true Sans culotte, I repaired to the Place Louis Quinze, now
the Place of the Revolution. All the streets were lined
with armed men, and cannon placed at the entrances.

The concourse of people was prodigious. I pushed
my way through with much difficulty, so as to get near
the scaffold, which was erected between the pedestal of
the statue and the Elysian Fields.

But when I came to the fatal spot, my resolution
failed me, and fully convinced that there was not the

THE KING'S DEATH. 313

smallest prospect of rescuing the unfortunate victim from
the hands of his murderers, I fled with as much precipi-
tancy from this scene of slaughter, this deed of blood by
which human nature was so woefully outraged, as I had
used before in approaching it.

At ten a large body of soldiers, both horse and foot,
made their appearance. They were followed by a coach
drawn by two black horses, in which were the royal
victim, his confessor, a municipal officer, two officers of
the National Guards, J. Roux and P. Bernard, two
municipal priests. Before the coach rode Berruyer, pen-
sioner of the King, and the infamous Santerre.

When arrived at the foot of the scaffisld, the King
alighted, pulled off his coat, which was of a grey colour,
and ascended the scaffold with a firm step and tranquil
aspect, while he benignly cast his eyes on the surrounding
multitude. He then advanced, and would have addressed
the people ; but the noise of the drums, which were then
ordered to be beat, drowned his voice, so that these words
only, could be distinctly heard. " I die innocent. I for-
give my enemies, and Heaven grant that France " — here,
on a signal from Santerre, the executioner seized the
King and tied" him to the plank. In this position he
raised his head, and once more gazed on the multitude.
It was at this instant that his confessor, kneeling close to
his face, pronounced with an emphatic tone, " Son of St.
Louis, ascend to Heaven," when the fatal axe immediately
fell, and this faithful adherent was besprinkled with the
blood of his royal master.

The falling of the guillotine did not immediately
separate the head from the body ; but upon a pressure of
the iron it fell into a casket placed for the purpose.

One of the executioners, who was said to be a tavern-

314 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

keeper, and had been clerk to a wine-merchant of Rheims,
took up his head and, walking round the scaffold, exposed
it to the people. A few voices, and but few, exclaimed,
" Vive la nation, vive la Republique."

During the whole proceeding, the soldiers observed
the most profound silence. All expressions of pity were
suppressed by terror ; and after the execution a deathlike
stillness prevailed throughout, which gave additional
horror to the scene.

I was told that the Duke of Orleans was on the Pont
Louis, seated in a cabriolet, and calmly beholding the
murder in which he bore so principal a part.

He stayed till the body was removed, and drove
afterwards to his palace, where an elegant carriage drawn
by six bays waited to convey him to Rincy, one of
his country seats, a few miles from Paris, where he
had invited Robespierre, Collot d'Herbois, Cambon, and
some other conspirators to dine with him and to
celebrate the death of their royal master.

I have before mentioned that my feelings could not
endure this bloody spectacle. The relation I have given
of it is, however, but too correct. I had not returned
many minutes from this fatal spot, my mind tortured
with the most afflicting sensations, and with the dreadful
consequences likely to ensue, when O ! shame on the
perversion of every best principle — O ! shame upon
those degraded Englishmen ! — no, can I call them by
that dignified name ? — some of my countrymen entered
the coffee-room, and with an air of self-complacency and
grim satisfaction displayed to my view their handker-
chiefs, stained with drops of the blood of the mild and
beneficent Lewis.

My own blood curdled at the sight, and with a stern-

ADVENTURE WITH ARTHUR DILLON. 315

ness produced by a kind of sensation I had never felt
before, I boldly rebuked them for the savage pleasure
they testified and the mean part they had acted.

" These are accursed spots," exclaimed I, with the
liveHest emotion, "which not all the waters of the
Thames or the Seine can wash away."

On the following day I did not go out till it was
late ; and on the Pont Neuf I met my friend Colonel
Wall, a most loyal though unfortunate man, to whom
I related my adventure with Arthur D — } He was
clearly of opinion that I had been cheated, and advised
me by no means to pay the two thousand /ouis, which
I had lost upon my parole, or give him any security for
that sum.

I remained for eight days without hearing any thing
from him ; when one morning O — entered my apart-
ment. I immediately charged him with being in league
with the set who had plundered me, and threatened to
chastise him on the spot : upon which he burst into
tears, and confessed that he was an accomplice in their
villainous transactions ; but solemnly protested that he
had not touched a so/ of the ready money, and that his
share of the spoil was to be five hundred /ouis out of the
two thousand due, provided he could find means to
recover it. He then declared that if I would give him
the five hundred, he would not only discover to me how
I had been cheated but avow it openly to their faces.

I told him that I felt infinitely more hurt at the idea
of being injured by him, who must be sensible how much
I had been his friend, than by being betrayed by those
to whom I was a perfect stranger. He acknowledged
that his conduct was reprehensible in the highest degree,

1 See post, 317, where " Dillon" is written in full.

3i6 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

and that he deserved nothing from me but the severest
reproaches : but at the same time observed, by way of
justification of his conduct, that as he saw I was
plundered by every one he thought he had as good a
right to a share of the spoil as any other. He con-
cluded by repeating his offer of disclosing the villainy on
condition of being recompensed with five hundred louis :
to which I made no other return than that of kicking
him out of doors.

Two days after I had another message from A — D — ,
in consequence of which I went to him accompanied by
my friend W — } There we found D — and G — with
pistols lying on the table. This apparatus did not
prevent me from telling D — what I thought of his
behaviour, or signifying my determination not to pay
him, as I was convinced I had been cheated, which
I could prove by the evidence of O — one of his
associates.

W — supported my charge, and the two friends of
D — ranged themselves on his side.

It was impossible that a dispute of this kind could
end amicably, and accordingly D — demanded satis-
faction, which I readily agreed to grant, notwithstanding
the advice of W — to the contrary. We appointed the
following evening to meet at six o'clock, in the Elysian
Fields — we were to begin with pistols and, should these
take no effect, the contest was to be decided by the
sword.

W— and I were punctual to the time and place

appointed ; but we waited near half an hour before D —

appeared. At last we saw him advancing, accompanied

by G — and two others, who were entire strangers to us.

' Col. Wall, as mentioned at p. 315.

A DUEL. 317

W — who had no sword, perceiving that G — , second to
Dillon,! had one by his side, desired him instantly to
quit it, threatening, in case of refusal, to lodge the
contents of his pistols in his body. This demand G —
thought proper to comply with ; and no further obstacle
remaining, I took my station. W — called on D — to do
the same ; but he expressed a wish to speak to G — , to
which my friend would by no means consent, having
some suspicion of foul play.

While this matter was in agitation, the man who
held our horses came speedily to inform us that a troop
of National Guards was coming towards us, which I
perceived to be really the case. I had scarcely time to
mount my horse, and apprise W — of our danger, when
the horsemen came close upon us. We immediately set
off full gallop : D — pursued us till we were out of
hearing, uttering all the invectives and opprobrious
language he could think of.

By the excellence of our horses, however, we escaped
our pursuers, and in about an hour arrived at Nanterre, a
little village three leagues from Paris. Here we stopped
for the night ; and in the morning sent a person on
whose fidelity we could depend to make inquiries
concerning the general opinion entertained of our
adventure.

From this faithful emissary we learned that D —
exerted all his influence with the Jacobin Club to get me
imprisoned.

At that time, there was from the prison to the
guillotine but a regular step, and the interval very short
between the one and the other.

Notwithstanding this alarming information, I

' See p. 315, n. MS. No. 2 here reads " D — ."

3i8 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

returned to Paris the same day, and remained there
for three weeks, skulking about like a thief; never
sleeping two nights in succession in the same place, to
evade the domiciliary visits that were made almost
every night.

Harassed with fatigue, exposed to every kind of
danger, and feeling the greatest solicitude for my little
boy, for whose safety I entertained a thousand fears,
receiving no intelligence from his mother, whom I had
dispatched to England, and finding from the information
of my friends that D — had laid a plan to assassinate me,
or at least to intimidate me so as to extort payment of
the debt he claimed, I determined to leave this wretched
capital and repair to Brussels ; but the difficulty was how
to obtain a passport, all the avenues to Paris being closely
guarded.

In this extremity 1 applied to W — y, formerly
under-secretary^ to a Viceroy of Ireland, a man of whose
honour and integrity I had repeated proofs. He not
only offered me his assistance, but proposed to accompany
me, if [I] should succeed in getting off. In consequence
of which, the next day we set out together on foot for
Rincy, where, as I have already observed, the Duke of
Orleans had a country-house.

While we waited for a favourable opportunity of
procuring a carriage we strolled into the Park, and had
proceeded but a few paces when we saw the execrable
proprietor himself walking towards us with a book in
his hand.

Having had the misfortune of being introduced to
him before the Revolution, he recollected me. But my

^ Private secretary must be meant, as there was no under-secretary
about the time whose name would fit the initial.

fiGALITfi. 319

friend and he had been upon intimate terms. He
seemed much surprised at meeting us, and asked a
number of questions as to the cause of our being there.

When we had fully satisfied him, he invited us to
dinner, and promised us a passport to Brussels that
should secure us from either insult or interruption on
the way. As we walked towards the house he took
notice of Mr. W — 's being in mourning, and without
ceremony demanded the occasion. Mr. W — told him
he wore it in honour of the good King who had been
recently murdered.

I shuddered at the boldness of his expression ; but
Orleans, with well-dissembled candour and an affectation
of a deep sense of public justice, observed, that as it was
an act the sole object of which was the good of the
people, it was not only justifiable in itself, but such as
every true Frenchman should glory in. " However that
may be," replied W — y, " every man is at liberty to
judge for himself, and our opinions, I believe, can never
coincide upon that subject."

I wished to give a turn to the conversation, and for
the present succeeded ; but at dinner it was impossible
to exclude politics ; and this infamous modern Nero,
equally detestable as a father, a husband or a subject,
and even a traitor to the cause he espoused, manifested,
throughout the whole of his political discussion that
evening, a degree of depravity which till then I thought
human nature incapable of.

I felt so uneasy in his company that I could have
gladly quitted it even without the passport, which,
however we at last obtained, with a letter to the
mulatto St. George, then commandant at Lisle.

I shall always regret the necessity I was under of

320 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

being obliged to such a monster ; but our very critical
situation at that time rendered it unavoidable, and
necessity often silences every other consideration.

It was seven in the evening when we reached Lisle :
the Gates were shut, and we could not get admittance
until I produced my letter for the Commandant, who
came himself to receive it. This officer gave us a very
friendlv and polite reception, and during our stay treated
us with the utmost respect and civility. What he may
have done since I know not ; but certain it is that
though a creature of the Duke's he seemed composed of
very different materials, and consequently possessed very
different sentiments from those of his detestable superior.
Not only he, but all the officers who were with him,
spoke with detestation and horror of the act perpetrated
by Orleans and his gang of assassins.

St. George had the precaution to send with me a
friend of his as far as Brussels, where, without his
assistance, I should certainly have been assassinated for
my anti-sansculottism.

I was one night at the theatre where a new Re-
publican piece was performed, composed for the express
purpose of insulting the memory of the late unfortunate
King. It afforded high entertainment to the audience ;
but only served to fill my mind alternately with indigna-
tion and melancholy ideas ; till at length I felt my
situation so disagreeable that I was on the point of
leaving the house, when a Jacobin, who stood near me,
asked why I did not seem to participate in the general
satisfaction. To which I answered that every man may
be supposed master of his actions, but could not always
command or suppress his feelings ; and that what
produced joy in some minds, may have quite the

THE THEATRE. 321

contrary effect on others. " You are then an aristocrat,"
said he ; to which I imprudently answered in the
affirmative. I had scarcely pronounced the word, when
he vociferated " Here is a rascally aristocrat got
among us."

In an instant the whole house was in confusion — every
eye sought me with evident malignancy, and I should
certainly have paid very dearly for my temerity had not
the officer who accompanied me, by threatening to call in
the National Guard, rescued me from their clutches and
conveyed me home in safety.

The next day I met Prince Louis de A — who by his
revolutionary principles had acquired popularity, and even
some ascendancy over the Jacobins.

He found no difficulty in persuading them that what
I said was merely in jest, and without any intention of
giving offence ; so that for the time I remained among
them, which was near a month, I met with neither insult
or molestation.

From Brussels I proceeded to Dunkirk, where I
obtained a passport to Calais, as I entertained the pleasing
hope of meeting my companion there and taking her
with me into Switzerland. In this I was disappointed :
but I had the pleasure of meeting with many of my
countrymen here, who were waiting with impatience for
an opportunity of returning to England.

In the hotel where I lodged was a French duke, who
endeavoured with unremitting assiduity to draw me into
an intimacy with him, but as his conversation shewed
him to be of the most violent democratic principles, I
shrunk from his advances as much as I could consistently
with propriety and good manners. One night as I was
preparing to go to bed, he begged leave to accompany

322 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

me to my chamber, having, as he said, something of
importance to communicate ; to which I assented.

When [we] were in the room he observed little Tom
in bed, and asked if he understood French ; I told him he
did, but that he might speak freely as the boy was fast
asleep. He then spoke thus to me. " My dear sir, from
what I have heard of you, and the disinclination you have
manifested to enter into any degree of familiarity with
me, I feel myself warranted in giving you my entire con-
fidence, and disclosing to you my real sentiments ;
particularly on the subject of modern politics, which are
the very reverse of what you may be induced to imagine
from the tenor of my conversation on that favourite
subject. But it is of the utmost consequence to me and
some others, whom I highly esteem, that we should thus
assume a character and outwardly profess sentiments
which we despise and inwardly disavow. Grant me your
confidence and esteem, and you shall never find me un-
worthy of either. There are many others whom you
have it in your power to serve ; and who, you may rest
assured, will always preserve a grateful sense of their
obligations to you.

" Is it in your power to set out directly for Paris and
repair to an hotel I shall point out to you .? There you
will meet a man whom you will readily distinguish by
the description I shall give you. He will give into your
hands a thousand louts d'ors, and to him you are to con-
sign this letter."

I asked him what the purport of the letter might be ;
to which he answered that he was not at liberty to
discover ; but solemnly declared, upon his honour, that it
was such as could not in any wise tend to involve me in
either difficulty or danger, even should the contents be

AT CALAIS. 323

made publicly known. I told him I felt highly honoured
by the confidence he was pleased to repose in me ; but
that the offer of the money was totally unnecessary, as I
should without any such inducement readily undertake
what he proposed, were it not that I was waiting for the
arrival of a lady from England, who would be much
embarrassed and distressed should she not find me there :
but if he could postpone the business till then, I should
with alacrity enter upon and execute it to the utmost of
my power and abilities. He expressed his thanks, but
said that the delay of a few hours would render the whole
scheme abortive. Since that time I have heard no more
of the French duke and the letter.

While I thus remained in expectation of some
intelligence from England, I became acquainted with
an American lady, who was then at Calais with her
two daughters, waiting for the arrival of her husband
from Vienna, where he had been sent in a diplomatic
capacity from the United States. These ladies took a
great liking to my little boy ; asked me his name and
age, and after some conversation I discovered that the
old lady was acquainted with my mother. When she
understood my situation she kindly offered me every
assistance in her power, and very soon had an opportunity
of shewing the sincerity of her professions.

At length a signal was given of a Packet from
England being in sight ; upon which I went down to
the Quay, and by the help of my glass discovered my
dear companion among several other females on board.
I had very little time to rejoice at the prospect of my
troubles and anxiety being nearly at an end, when I was
informed that the Municipality of Calais had refused to
admit the Packet-boat into the harbour. I immediately

j24 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

wrote a letter and endeavoured to get it conveyed on
board, offering a reward of twenty louis d'ors to any
person who would engage to convey it safe. But no one
would undertake the office without permission from the
Municipality. I applied to them myself and shewed
them the letter, which contained nothing more than to
inform my friend of my being there, and to desire she
would return to London, and wait there till I could
find an opportunity of joining her. I requested they
would permit me to send this letter by the boat that was
to convey their determination to the Packet : but this
they refused, and I had the mortification of seeing the
vessel leave the coast, without being able to give my dear
companion the least information concerning myself or
any measures I may have [had] in contemplation for our
mutual accommodation.

Vexed to the soul at seeing all my hopes thus
frustrated, and having no prospect of an end to my
misfortunes, I applied to the American lady for advice.
As she had determined on going to Ostend she proposed
that I should accompany her, and accordingly we dis-
patched a courier to Paris for permission to quit France.
He soon returned with a direct refusal to our request,
the only reason alleged for which was, that in the present
critical state of affairs no person whatsoever could be
allowed to leave the country.

Notwithstanding this prohibition, we did not give
up our determination or hopes of visiting Ostend ; and
to this end, we availed ourselves of an old passport
which the lady had for herself, her two daughters and
her son, who was then absent and whom, on this
occasion, I was to personate.

Having procured four stout horses, and harnessed

A JOURNEY TO OSTEND. 325

them to my carriage, we proceeded as far as Farnese
without interruption, as we travelled for the most part
through by-roads : but here we were stopped, and after
receiving many insults from the soldiers on guard, we
were carried before the Commissary, though he was
then in bed. Fortunately for us, this gentleman was
of a mild and humane disposition ; and after having
examined our passports, and understanding that we were
subjects of the United States, he not only imprisoned the
soldiers who had insulted us, but gave us a fresh passport,
and sent an escort to conduct us safe out of the town.

We now resumed our journey with less apprehensions
on our minds than when we first set out, and travelled
without stopping till we arrived at a small town within
six leagues of our journey's end, where we found it
necessary to halt, in order to refresh our horses. While
this was doing I took a walk to a small eminence to
enjoy the prospect, leaving the ladies in the carriage.
On my return I found the inn beset by ten or twelve
hundred Republicans, a part of whom surrounded me
as I approached the carriage and strictly interrogated
me as to my name and country, backing each im-
pertinent question with a bayonet pointed at my breast.

Notwithstanding I repeatedly assured them that I
was an American, yet I should have hardly escaped with
life, if the officers, who were more rational beings, had
not interposed and rescued me from the hands of these
drunken scoundrels.

It was with the utmost difficulty I could approach
the carriage, where I found another set of those mis-
creants, and the ladies half dead with apprehension.
They had, however, presence of mind to make signs to
me, not by any means to shew the least appearance of

326 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

resentment. By dint of entreaties and fair words, I was
at length suffered to step into the carriage : but we had
scarcely recovered from our agitation and apprehensions,
when we were assailed by another set, and again relieved
by the officers, though not without being obliged to cry
out repeatedly " Vive la Republique ! " to which, with
true politeness, they answered " Vivent les Amerkains!"
We were then permitted to prosecute our journey ; but
every half league we met with parties of the National
Guards, who all took care to lay us under some con-
tribution.

In this pleasant way of travelling we arrived under
the walls of Ostend ; and after waiting a short time,
were admitted into the town, having announced ourselves
as English, the garrison being at that time in anxious
expectation of a fleet with troops from England.

In ten days after my arrival I had the satisfaction of
seeing the British flag flying in the harbour, and among
the officers recognized some of my old acquaintance,
who supplied me with money sufficient to pursue my
route with the American ladies ; and we accordingly
embarked in the first Packet for Dover, where we soon
arrived.

After having procured proper accommodations for the
ladies, the first thing I did was to inquire after my
companion. For this purpose I repaired to the York
Hotel, where I was well known from an act of folly I
had committed there some years before.

I had laid a wager with a young man as giddy and
inconsiderate as myself, that I would leap out of the
window, on the second floor, over the roof of the mail-
coach that was then standing near the door. By laying
mattresses in the street to break the fall, I performed the

IN PURSUIT OF HIS COMPANION. 327

feat and had the honour of winning the wager which
was two thousand guineas, besides the good fortune to
escape with whole bones.

To return, however, from this digression, I was
informed in the hotel that my friend had gone to Deal,
in hopes of procuring a passage to France. I instantly-
set out for Deal where I learned that she had proceeded
directly from thence to London without taking any
refreshment. Now I had not a guinea in my pocket,
and to complete my embarrassment I had sufficient reason
to apprehend, that on my arrival in the capital, I should
be arrested by the creditors of two young men for whom
I was security.

While I was revolving in my mind the extent of my
present distress, I discovered that my friend Admiral
M — ^ was then at Deal, under orders for Ostend. To
him I gave a succinct detail of all my distresses ; of the
fatigue I had undergone, not having been in bed for the
last five days, and of the extreme desire I had of getting
to London, whatever might be the consequence.

Like a true friend he removed all my difficulties, and
I immediately set out for London, accompanied by an
officer charged with dispatches for the Admiralty.

We arrived at six in the morning and my first visit
was to my old lodging, where I indulged myself with
the pleasing hope of finding my companion, or, at least,
of gaining such intelligence of her as would remove
those apprehensions which our separation had occasioned.
But by a strange fatality, she had, a short time before,
returned to Deal with an intention of embarking for
Ostend.

' Rear-Admiral John MacBride, then in command in the Downs.

328 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

These repeated disappointments did not cool my
ardour or abate my activity. I therefore returned directly
to Deal, where I had the additional mortification of
finding that only three hours before she had embarked in
the Packet that sailed for Ostend. By the powerful bait
of twenty guineas, I prevailed on the master of a boat
immediately to take me on board, and exert all his
nautical skill and powers to overtake the Packet. 'Tis
true I had not in my possession the means of fulfilling
my engagement, but I knew that could I overtake
my friend, she had money sufficient to answer every
exigency.

After five hours' rowing we came alongside of the
Packet, not above three leagues from land, where she
had come to an anchor owing to contrary winds. Here
I found my Eurydice, who was then in bed, worn out
with fatigue and anxiety. After we had recounted our
adventures to each other and described the dangers we
had passed, through flood and field, she desired me to
observe a petticoat she then wore, and which, she said,
had not been off for three weeks. I begged to know
what charm it possessed that could thus peculiarly attach
her ; upon which she shewed me two thousand pounds
sewed in the binding. But alas ! this sum, considerable
as it was, did not prove of much advantage to us, as will
shortly appear.

We had now no motive or inducement to proceed
any farther on our way to Ostend ; and therefore we
returned to Deal, and from thence to London, where I
was no sooner arrived than I encountered one of my
creditors, to whom I was under the necessity of giving
seventeen hundred pounds to stop his mouth and prevent
his giving intelligence to the rest. But still this could

IN A LONDON SUBURB. 329

give me no hope of perfect security ; and as my debts
amounted to upwards of ten thousand pounds, I knew it
would be impossible for me to remain in the heart of
London without being every moment under the painful
apprehensions of a discovery.

I therefore took a lodging in the suburbs, in the
neighbourhood of Moorfields, where I lived as retired
and private as possible, never stirring out but on Sunday
evenings, and associating with no person excepting my
brother. I had only one servant, and of his fidelity I
could not, without doing him the highest injustice,
entertain the smallest doubt.

One day, as he was out for beer, a man followed him
unperceived, and the instant my servant opened the door,
he forced himself in and was followed by six more who
ranged themselves in the passage, while the first entered
the room where I was sitting. " Good morning to you
Mr. W — " said he with a sneer. " I am very glad to see
you again in London." As I then passed under another
name, for the same reason which induced me to live in
that part of the town, I told him he was mistaken, that
my name was not W — . " No, no," replied he, " I am
not mistaken, and your memory must be very bad
indeed, if you do not know me to be the waiter at
Brook's to whom you are indebted four hundred pounds.
I have here a writ against you for that sum, which you
must either pay or go to prison."

While this was passing, the landlord and my servant
entered the room and prepared to defend me. I seized
a sword and pistol, and retired through a door leading to
a room the windows of which fronted the street.
While I was meditating an escape by this means, the
people called to me not to risk my neck by such an

330 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

attempt, which must prove fruitless, as the house was
surrounded by at least twenty constables. I then
returned to the room I had quitted, and assisted by my
two friends, endeavoured to keep at bay the whole gang,
who were just entering.

But my companion, who was at that time very ill,
entreated me not to hazard my life in opposing so many,
who could not fail to overpower me in the end. Her
entreaties, and a conviction in my own mind that
resistance would be in vain, induced me at length to
surrender ; upon which I was instantly conveyed to the
Bridewell, a prison solely designed for thieves and
murderers.

My female friend intended to accompany me, but
was refused admittance ; and I was thrust into a common
room, amidst wretched criminals of all descriptions. I
represented to the Jailor, that I was not committed on a
charge of any crime, and that I was a gentleman^
" That may be," said the Jailor : " but here we make
no distinction but according to the money a man can
afford to spend. I have excellent champaign and claret,
and if you choose to call for either, I can accommodate
you with one of my own apartments." I acceded to the
proposal and was shewn into a room, which, immediately
upon my entrance, suggested an idea of my being able to
effect my escape.

With this view, I desired my servant to wait in the
street, within a few yards of the prison, and invited the
Jailor to take a glass of wine with me ; an offer which I
had no occasion to repeat ; and accordingly I plied him
so closely with his own home-brewed champaign, that he
was soon in a fit condition for my purpose, which was
that of descending from the window into the street :

RELEASED FROM PRISON. 331

and this I could have easily effected but for a circum-
stance I was [not] aware of

I had scarce made the attempt when the Jailor's
daughter, a stout athletic wench, assisted by two of the
understrappers, seized me and immediately conveyed me
to the common room, where I should have been very
roughly handled were it not for the interposition of
ten guineas, which I fortunately had then in my pocket,
and with which I appeased the infernal crew there
assembled and prepared to load me with blows and
insults.

The Jailor on recovering from the state in which
I had left him, shewed a grateful remembrance of my
generous hospitality without once adverting to the
motive ; and not only liberated me from the purgatory,
but even gave me up his own bed.

In the meantime my faithful friend had gone to my
brother and related to him the whole of my misfortune.
He bade her be of good cheer, as he had just learned
that my brother-in-law, the Chancellor,' was then in
London, to whom he would immediately communicate
my situation.

He accordingly went to his lodging, but as he had
dined abroad that day it was impossible to do any thing
effectual till the next. In the morning, however, they
were both at the prison door by six o'clock. My
brother-in-law readily undertook to discharge the action ;
but before I could obtain my liberty it was necessary
to search the office, which luckily happened to be in
the county of Surrey. Had it been in Middlesex, there
would in all probability have been detainers to the
amount of all my debts. As it was he had only four
hundred pounds to pay with the costs.

' Viscount Fitzgibbon, then Lord Chancellor of Ireland.

332 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

I was now determined not to stay another hour in
London ; and immediately set out for Dublin.

The first thing I did after my arrival was to dispose
of all my estates, for the discharge of my personal debts ;
and with the remainder, amounting to about five
thousand pounds, I resolved to try my fortune at play
and either retrieve myself or complete my ruin.

The latter was my fate, as may easily be supposed ;
for in one winter I lost ten thousand pounds, which
obliged me to sell all my own jewels, and those I had
given to my companion in my better days : so that in
the course of a few years I dissipated a fortune of near
four hundred thousand pounds, and contracted debts to
the amount of thirty thousand more, without ever
purchasing or acquiring contentment or one hour's true
happiness.

Deprived now of all the means by which I could
support my rank in a society the only cement of which
is gold, I had leisure to look a little into myself, and for
the first time saw my conduct in its true light. I am
at present, as I have already related, retired from the
world, and my principal occupation, since the above
mentioned period, has been the compiling of this
narrative, which I hope from its candour will, in the
estimation of my friends, make some atonement for the
folly and extravagance of the author.

333

CONCLUSION.

As I committed many of the preceding events to
paper, I frequently paused to compare my present mode
of thinking with the notions of life and happiness I had
formerly entertained ; and as I occasionally sighed or
smiled at the recollections of my past extravagancies, I
have often doubted whether I really was the principal
actor in the scenes I have here related.

When the effervescence of youth and the violence
of passion are past, when the imagination has lost its
power, and novelty no longer invites, because life has
nothing new, the mind viewing things with the clear
and unimpassioned eyes of reason, retraces the follies of
our juvenile years with pity and astonishment.

The vanity of human happiness has ever been an
inexhaustible theme for the moralist and philosopher.
These by the incontrovertible evidence of experience
and the sound arguments of reason, to which they have
not infrequently added the lesson of instruction, have
endeavoured to prove the fallacy of our fondest pursuits,
and laboured to give to youth the judgment and 'solidity
of age. But the inefficacy of their labours teaches us
that our knowledge, in order to be productive of the
advantages they boast of, must proceed from the same
source ; and that the precepts of the sage avail but
little till they have been enforced by the sanction of
experience.

A sigh involuntarily arises, when we reflect that the
most enviable period of our existence must be thus

334 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

sacrificed ; and we cannot help lamenting that we are
ignorant in what true happiness consists whilst we are
best fitted for the enjoyment ; and are not able to make
a true estimate of it till the finest feelings of the heart
have been destroyed by disappointment and dissipation.

The attainment of happiness has ever been the
principal incentive to the pursuits of man : and according
to the propensity of his disposition, he has sought it in
the daring paths of ambition, in the possession of riches,
the voice of fame, or in the more rational enjoyment of
intellectual acquisitions.

Ambition, fortune and fame, even where they have
bestowed their united favours, have only served to
convince him of their inability to content the heart.
The attainment of knowledge and the cultivation of
literature have, amidst their boasted utility, failed to
satisfy the curious and active nature of man. He has
found that on conjecture many of his inquiries must
rest ; and over what he would have wished the light
of truth and certainty to shine, the dark and impenetrable
veil of ignorance has been drawn. Hence, in what he
was unable to investigate, doubts have arisen ; [and]
here it is that Scepticism has reared her dauntless head,
and from this source has drawn her too powerful
arguments to silence her believing opponents.

But if man has been disappointed in his promised
happiness, it is not because our life has no enjoyment
to bestow ; but because he expected to derive happiness
from a false source ; has sought her in paths which she
frequented not, and has used to excess those pleasures
which induce pain when they exceed the bounds of
prudence, moderation and virtue.

Ambition, when directed to proper objects, becomes

VAIN REGRETS. 335

a virtue, and the voice of praise will be ever grateful to
the ear, when it is attended with the consciousness of
being merited. It is the application of riches that stamps
their value ; and if the gifts of fortune add not to our
happiness the fault arises from ourselves.

If in the intellectual pursuits we could be content to
confine our researches within the limits that are
enlightened by the eyes of reason ; if we knew how to
stop at the point where it has been ordained that our
knowledge should terminate ; and could persuade our-
selves that we knew sufficient for our happiness ; we
should not be prompted to bewilder ourselves in those
paths of doubt which lead to infidelity.

My own example will give the sanction of truth to
most of the preceding observations. I was born with
strong passions, a lively imagination and a spirit that
could brook no restraint. I possessed a restlessness and
activity of mind that directed me to the most extravagant
pursuits ; and the ardour of my disposition never abated
till satiety had weakened the power of enjoyment ; till
my health was impaired and my fortune destroyed. In
the warmth of my imagination I formed schemes of the
wildest and most eccentric kind ; and in the execution
of them no danger could intimidate, no difficulty
deter me.

The remonstrances of my friends, the tender solici-
tude and affectionate entreaties of my mother, though I
always listened with emotion and gratitude to the
voice of love and reason, could not recall me from my
eccentricities, nor stop me in the career of folly and
dissipation which led me from precipice to precipice
into an abyss of misfortunes.

But if to my natural disposition many of my follies

336 WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

are to be attributed, no small share may be laid to a
neglected education.

The very causes from which many of my extrava-
gancies sprung, would, if properly directed, have been
a spur to actions which might have rendered me of use
and an ornament to the age I live in. But either the
good-nature or indolence of my tutor forbore to control
the impetuosity of my disposition, till he found himself
unequal to the task, and neglected to enforce the utility
of instruction till my mind had contracted a habit of
indolence that rendered the idea of study and application
painful and disgusting.

If the ardour and activity of my mind had been
directed to intellectual attainments, I should not have
experienced the vanity of thought which made me
dehght in change and any expedient that could beguile
the time and retrieve me from the most insupportable
of maladies, ennui.

The calm shades of domestic life, the pleasures of
social converse and the tranquil enjoyment of friendship,
experience has taught me, have the most extensive power
of conferring happiness : but, for the enjoyment of these
it requires a mind enriched with information and refined
by a cultivated taste : it requires that station where
poverty excites not discontent, nor riches tempt to
improper pursuits, [and] which affords a sufficiency for
the necessities and a little for the elegancies of life.

Removed from the noise and bustle of the world
I have lost all relish for the tumultuous pleasures of Ufe •
and little remains of all that is past, but the melancholy
reflection of having applied to an improper use the gifts
with which nature and fortune had richly endowed me.
Blessed with the reciprocal friendship of a tender and

RETROSPECTION. 337

beloved companion, and the society of a few rational
friends ; dividing my time between their company and
literary pursuits, my days might now roll on in serenity
and repose, if retrospection did not sometimes damp the
pleasure of enjoyment. But in proportion as the recol-
lection of the past is painful, the mind directs its views to
the future ; and I feel no trifling satisfaction from the
prospect, that this simple narrative may persuade the
young and inexperienced, if the language of truth has
the power of persuasion, that a life ot dissipation can
produce no enjoyment, and that tumultuous pleasures afford
no real happiness.

APPENDIX.

EXTRACTS FROM CAPT. MOORE'S MS. JOURNAL.

[Begins] The following sheets, written on board ship,
are not to be consider'd as a composition deliberately put
together, or as a work sufficiently digested to be submitted to
the inspection of the Public — the undertaking I meant merely as
a passe terns at sea, to dissipate the many heavy hours of ennui
which I must, without an employment of this kind, have been
subject to — intended merely as a future gratification to myself,
by enabling me to recollect the occurrences of a long tour, I have
not an idea of its ever appearing more publicly than within the
small circle of my most particular Friends. . . .

Fage I. Gibraltar, November 6th, 1788.

Having determined to accept an invitation I received from
Mr. Whaley (who with a Mr. Wilson made a stay of ten Days at
Gibraltar on their way to Smyrna) to accompany him on a tour
to the Levant, Constantinople, and the coast of Syria, and to
penetrate as far as Jerusalem, in consequence of a bet he had
taken on in Ireland, that he would go there ; We embarked on
the 6th of November, 1788, on board the London of London, a
ship bound to Smyrna, of which Mr. Whaley had hired the
cabin. We sailed out of Gibraltar Bay that evening with a fair
wind. . . .

Page 43. 19th [December]. — We all return'd to Constanti-
nople. Soon after our arrival at the Palace, Sir Robert's painter^
a Signior Mayer, permitted us to examine a set of views he had
just finish'd for the Ambassador to present to the King ; they
represented the most beautiful views of Constantinople, Ephesus,
Athens, the Bosphorus, etc., etc. . . .

34° APPENDIX.

Page 60. December 27th. — We started [from Belgrade,
near the Black Sea] soon this morning, expecting an excellent
day's sport, as the country, we were inform'd, abounded with
game of every kind. We, however, found the snow so very
deep that ... we return'd home at one o'clock, and order'd
an early dinner, as we determin'd to set ofF immediately after for
Constantinople by land, the Ambassador having kindly sent his
horses for us. We arrived in town soon after it was dark, and
as soon as we had paid our respects to Sir Robert, .... we
retired early to bed. About 1 1 o'clock ray friend Whaley, who
lay in a bed near mine, awoke me. He found himself extremely
indisposed, and on going to him, I was not a little alarm'd to
find him in a very violent fever, which, as he afterwards
acknowledged, he had brought on by eating a quantity of snow,
the morning before, to quench his thirst, while he was in a great
perspiration. Mr. Franklin, surgeon's mate of the Pearl, was
fortunately in the Palace. I immediately sent for him, and as in
the course of an hour he found the fever augment rapidly,
attended with a strong dehrium, he administer'd large quantities
of James's Powders, . . . and to our great joy the delirium was
soon remov'd. Page 62. — [A description follows of the serious
nature of Whaley's illness]. . . . Until the 18th of January, '89,
he was not thought at all in a situation to embark for Smyrna. . . .

Page 63. — Through the whole of that distressing period the
attention and politeness of our worthy Ambassador were such as
never to be forgotten by either of us. . . .

Page 113. — On the ist of Jan"", 1789, my friend found
himself much better . . . and was unfortunately prevail'd on by
Mons' le Comte de Choiseul, French Minister at Constf'*, to
dine with a party at his Palace. ... In the evening there was
a ball. The temptations to dance were too strong for my friend
to resist. ... At nine o'clock he was obliged to go home
and the following morning ... his fever was attended with the
most alarming symptoms, of a putrid nature. On the 3rd, 4th,
and 5th the malady had increased to so alarming a height that

APPENDIX. 341

it fell to my lot to perform the most distressing and truly painful
office of friendship, which was to assist in the final arrangement
of his worldly affairs. . . .

Page 115.— On the 18th of Jan'' my friend found him-
self so much better that he determin'd to embark for Smyrna,
though contrary to the advice of his physician.

Page 129. [At Smyrna] Feb-^ 2nd [1789].— This evening
bemg fix'd on for our departure, we return'd the visits of
all the gentlemen who had come to see us, and prepared other
matters for our embarkation in the course of the morning. We
were prevail'd on to postpone our going on board till after
supper. . . . We went after the Play to the Cassino, where we
were presented to the Prince Victoire Gimine, of the Rohan
family, with several of whom Whaley had been intimate when in
France. He commanded a very fine frigate, the Badine. He
is an active spirited young man, passionately fond of his pro-
fession, imitates as nearly as possible the customs of the British
Navy, and spares no pains to acquire a knowledge of their
regulations. When we met him he was just return'd from
Athens, where he had been in search of antiquities, and where
he had procured some beautiful pieces of Grecian sculpture,
etc., etc.

Page 298. [At Jerusalem.] — The Procurer then accom-
panied us to the Appartments of the Superior of the Convent,
whom we had not before seen, as he was indisposed when we
arrived ... he appear'd to be a good deal oppress'd by a
feverish cold. He raised himself and received us politely. He
was a man far advanced in years, yet he possessed a natural
vivacity in his countenance, which a life of retirement had not
entirely deprived him of, and which a long beard, with the cowl
and dismal Cordelier habit, could not altogether disguise. We
conversed for some time on the late transactions in Europe, and
he question'd us particularly concerning the motives of our
journey, which we told him we had undertaken both through
religion and curiosity. . . . We took our leave, and return'd

342

APPENDIX.

with the Procurer to his appartments. The Superior here sent
us a Certificate of our having visited Jerusalem, which we were
inform'd it was customary to give to every pilgrim who visits
the convents, and which we were glad to obtain, as a voucher of
our having perform 'd the journey required by the articles of my
friend's bet. I here annex the original Certificate for the
gratification of any person who may read this. [The next leaf
of the MS. has been torn out.]

ROUTE.

From —

Gibraltar to Smyrna . .
Smyrna to Constanti""'' by land
Consf'' to Smyrna by sea .
Smyrna to Fogia Nova do.
Fogia to Patmos do.

Patmos to St. Jean d'Acre do,
D'Acre to Jerusalem about
Jerusalem to Bethlehem and

back

Jerusalem to Acre . . .
Acre to Cyprus ....
Tour through the Island about
Cyprus to Marseilles (21 days

quarantine)

Marseilles to Paris by land .
Paris to London and back

Do. do. . .

Leagues.
600
100
100

15

40

177

40

9

40
60

40

620

169

180

90

Commenced.

Finish d.

e'" Nov' '88

i^' Dec'

4"' Dec'

14*-

ig* Jan'y'89

27"' Jan"

a-d Feb"

5"' Feb'"

lo"- Feb'"

1 1 "Feb'"

iS"- Feb'"

23"' Feb'"

24"' Feb'"

28* Feb'"

4'" March

4"' March

4'--

8"* —

lo" —

13* —

H* —

24 —

26"> —

6'" May

28* May

2^ June

2"'' June

7*

London to Dublin .

2280
3

6840 miles
■ 338

7178

APPENDIX. 343

Marseilles to Paris ... 169 Leagues.
Paris to London and back . 1 80

349
3

1047 miles, travell'd in 10 Days.

EXTRACT FROM WHALEY'S MEMOIRS.

MS. No. 1, Vol. II., pp. 114-118. See Preface, page xl.

Episode of Theresina.

I shall ever \sic\ forget my tender, faithful and lovely
Theresina, when I had bought her from her parents. When I
first saw her, she was sitting before the door. The beauty of her
complexion, the regularity of her features, and above all, the
innocent, modest and tender simplicity of her countenance, made
me gaze on her with wonder, delight and admiration. The parents
soon observed the lively impression their lovely child made on me,
and they immediately determined to turn it to their advantage.
Within a quarter of an hour the bargain was struck, I paid
about £130 and Theresina was mine. Strange as it may appear,
I was the only person that was astonished at so extraordinary a
transaction. Theresina shed a few tears on quitting her parents,
but they were soon dried up when I had provided her with all
the most costly dresses that Eastern magnificence could produce.

She [sic] pleased and happy in her new situation. She was
but thirteen, her mind perfectly corresponded with the wonderful
simetry [j/c] of her person ; courteous and affable to everybody,
without regretting the past, or caring for the future, her only
study was to promote the happiness of a person whom she
considered as a master and benefactor.

It was both my duty and inclination to provide for so
charming a girl ; as I was convinced that she could not be
insensible to the personal accomplishment of my dear Paoulo,
who was returning to his own country, I proposed a match

344 APPENDIX.

between them, which both accepted with eagerness and grati-
tude. Theresina was happy with the idea of returning to her
own country and of having her freedom, while Paoulo thought
it a great honour and found it his interest to marry the pretty
slave of his master. They had saved some money, I doubled it
and paid their passage ; now they are comfortably settled at
Smyrna, where Paoulo carries on some trade, and they live in a
simple and happy mediocrity.

Happy simplicity ! I leave it to our modern philosophers
and modern beaux to comment upon it. As for my part, I do
not blush to acknowledge, that however customs and manners
may differ among nations, I cannot help admiring the passive
submission and un[.r/V] philosophy of my dear Theresina,
while I am at a loss to find expression sufficiently strong to
reprobate the selfish and interested character of her parents.

Page 295, a?ite. — "During the period of my residence at
Neufchatel (1792-4), it was also visited by Mr. Beckford, the
well-known author of " Vathek," who made his journey in a
style that would astonish the princes of the present degenerate
days. His travelling menage consisted of about thirty horses,
with four carriages, and a corresponding train of servants.
Immediately upon his arrival Mr. Beckford set up a fine yacht
upon the lake, and by his munificent hospitality, soon ingratiated
himself with the young Enghshmen of rank whose names I have
mentioned. The friendship, however, was not of long endurance:
in the course of a few weeks, letters came from England to
Captain Arbuthnot (Earl Digby's tutor), as the result of which
our visits to Mr. Beckford ceased." — Personal Recollections of
Valentine Lord Cloncurry, page 11.

Page 394, ante. — William Beckford, in his Portuguese Letters,
refers to his stay at Evian at an earlier date. Writing from
Falmouth, where he was detained by contrary winds, on the
nth March, 1787, he says: "What a fool I was to leave my
beloved retirement at Evian ! Instead of viewing innumerable

APPENDIX. 345

transparent rills falling over the amber-coloured rocks of
Melierie [izV], I am chained down to contemplate an oosy

beach. . . . Instead of the cheerful crackling of a wood fire in

the old baron's great hall I hear the bellowing of winds in

narrow chimneys. You must allow the aromatic fragrance of

fir-cones, such heaps of which I used to burn in Savoy, is
greatly preferable." — Letter V.

Among other expensive luxuries in which Beckford indulged
about the period when Buck Whaley met him was the purchase
of Edward Gibbon's library at Lausanne,

HALIDAY PAMPHLETS (Royal Irish Academy).

Vol. ^c,o,page 140. Mis. Verse, 1789.

Air: Mr. Wh — LI. — Y.

I travers'd Judah's barren sand,

At beauty's altar to adore —
But there the Turk had spoil'd the land,

And Sion's daughters were no more.

In Greece the bold imperious mien,

The wanton look, the leering eye,
Bade Love's devotion not be seen.

Where constancy is never nigh.

From thence to Italy's fair shore

I urged my never-ceasing way.
And to Loretto's temple bore

A mind devoted still to pray.

And there, too, superstition's hand

Had sketch'd every feature o'er.
And made me soon regain the land.

Where beauty fills the Western shore.

346 APPENDIX.

Where Hymen with celestial power
Connubial transports doth adorn j

Where purest virtue sports the hour
That ushers in each happy morn.

Ye daughters of old Albion's isle,
Where'er I go, where*er I stray,

O ! Charity's sweet children, smile
To cheer a pilgrim on his way.

Ibid. • Vol. ZS^'P^K^ 5^-

MISS WHALEY.i

Now Wh — 1 — y comes adorn'd with Beauty's flowers.
But comes resplendent with superior powers, —
What tho* that cheek exceeds the Peach's bloom,
That fragrant breath Arabia's rich perfume ;
Faint in the eye of sense those charms are seen,
To that intelligence which rules within :
That polish'd mind, by every truth imprest.
And the meek virtues which adorn her breast.

^ This and the two pieces following refer to Buck Whaley's sister,
Anne, who married the Rt. Hon. John Fitzgibbon in 1786. At a later
period, when Lady Clare, she was distinguished for her wit and cleverness
in the gay society which the Prince of Wales collected about him in the
Pavilion at Brighton.

Mr. W. H. Wilkins, in his Mrs. Fitzherbert and George IF.^ London,
1905, Vol. L, 157, speaking of Carlton House in the year 1786, and the
entertainments there over which Mrs. Fitzherbert presided as hostess,
states that Lady Clare was among the " beautiful and brilliant women "
who were frequently present. She was still, however, Mrs, Fitzgibbon at
that time, her husband not being Lord Clare until 1795. Later in the
same vol. (p. 268), referring to the rollicking parties continuously given
by H.R.H. at Brighton in 1790, he mentions a number of favoured Irish
guests whose " merry recklessness of temperament had a great attraction
for the Prince of Wales, and indeed bore a peculiar aiBnity to his own
character," and adds — *' among whom was the witty and fascinating
Lady Clare, an Irish lady who was a friend of Mrs. Fitzherbert."

APPENDIX. 347

Ibid. Vol. ST^ip^ge 3.

From "THE MIRROR."

See smiling Fitzgibbon in negligence bright,

With a person of elegance, eye of delight ;

Behold how she swims through the mazes of fashion.

No stranger, tho' gay, to the joys of compassion ;

Her charms are confess'd, yet more bright they appear

When refresh'd by the dew of benignity's tear.

Ilnd. Vol. Si%,page 22, "The Promenade, or Theatre of Beauty."
MRS. F— TZ— BON.

With loveliest form F — tz — bon next is seen,
Grace rules her step, and elegance her mien ;
The sweet impression which our hearts pursue,
In her resplendent meets th' admiring view ;
Strikes the quick sense, in majesty array'd.
And casts each meaner Beauty into shade.
Not with more swiftness darts the rapid course
Of fires electric shot with fiercest force.

EXTRACT FROM MEMOIRS OF JOSEPH HOLT,
GENERAL OF THE IRISH REBELS IN 1798.

Ed. by T. Crofton Croker. Lend., 1838.

Vol. i,page 160. — [Holt, speaking of his enemies] "They had
as many setters about me as Buck Whaley when he got the
Duke of Y , Miss , into his keeping."

[On which Croker has the following note. | " I am not able
to illustrate the scandalous anecdote here alluded to by Holt.
Those curious in the chronicles of slander may, no doubt, readily
have their curiosity gratified by referring to the pages of the
Court Magazine, or the Town and Country Magazine, if such

348 APPENDIX.

worse than useless publications have been preserved. Buck
Whaley, however, was a notorious character, from his pilgrimage
to Jerusalem and other achievements, famous in the annals of
sporting. The Annual Register for 1788 has the following notice
of the first of these affairs. ' A young Irish gentleman, for a very
considerable wager, set out on Monday, the 22nd instant [Sep-
tember], to walk to Constantinople and back in one year. It is
said that the young gentleman has ;^20,ooo depending on the
performance of his exploit.' . . . Whaley's extraordinary achieve-
ment, as it was then considered, gave rise, in Dublin, to a popular
song, known by the name of its burden, ' Round the world for
sport.'

"Mr. Whaley's sister, Isabella [.>], married the first Lord
Clare, and to Mr. Whaley belonged the seat more than once
mentioned [in Holt's Memoirs'] as Whaley's Abbey. It is situated
on the side of the mountain west of the first Meeting of the
Waters in the Vale of Avoca

" Mr. Whaley is said to have been the possessor of some of
the best-bred horses in Ireland. His town residence was in St.
Stephen's Green, Dublin, from the drawing-room window of
which, for a considerable wager, he is commonly believed to have
leaped, on a favourite little Arabian horse, over a mail coach.
This fete was accomplished by taking out the window-frame, and
having a quantity of straw laid on the pavement below to receive
the gallant horse and its determined rider. I do not vouch for
the accuracy of this sporting anecdote ; I merely ' tell the tale as
told to me.' " Croker in the same note mentions that " General "
Holt at one period of the Rebellion rode a blood mare which had
belonged to Whaley.

INDEX

(Roman Numerals refer to Preface.)

Absolom, 193

Achmet {i.e. Ahmed), Sultan, 127

Acre, 236, 238, 239

Actium, battle of, 252

Adrian, The emperor, 218

-^lia Capitolina, 196

Ainslie, Sir Robert, xliii, 103, 119,

132, 149, 191, 263, 339, 340
Akachi, 240, 241
Akhissar, 94
Albacore, a fish, 39
Aleppo, 239
Ah Bey, 169
AmabadgUy 127
Ambuscade^ The, 71
Andros, 70
Anthemius, no
Antibes, 308
Antiochus, 92
Apelles, 237
Apes' Hill, 44
Apraxim, Miss de, 292
Arab horses, 178, 237, 270, 348
Arbuthnot, Capt., 344
Armitage, Catherine, ix

, Robert, ix

Artaxerxes Longimanus, 90

Ashton, Old Times, xiii n.

Asturias, Prince of, 179

Atarasana, The, 60

Athenry, viii

Athens, 70

Athol, Duke of, xxiv

Auch, 12, 15, 16

Auctozaar, 94

Avant Souper, The, 73, 75

B— , Lady, 27, 30

B-, Mr, 47

Bachman, Major, 300

Badine, The Frigate, 341

Bagneres, 12

Ball, George, 155

Barliary, Coast of, 43

Bareges, 13

Barnave, 284

Barras, 285

Barre, Chev. de la, 17

Barrington, Sir J., xxxii n., xxxvi,

xxxvii
Barthelemy, Citizen, 30 1
Basil, ii, 134

Basilica di Santa Maria, 216, 217
Bastions, The, at Gibraltar, 48
Bath, II

Baths of Julian, The, 129
Battery, Grand, 49
Beaux Walk, Dublin, xi, xv
Beckford, William, xix, 292 seq. ;

ordered to leave Lausanne, 304,

344, 345
Becque figue, 246, 258
Bedouins, 235
Bejuk-dere, 105
Belgrade, 340

Belisarius, The Tower of, 135
Bellouski, Princess, 292
Ben Arthure, xxxiv
Bcngore, 63
Beresford, Rt. Hon. John, xxxiii

-, Marcus, xxxiii n.
-, William, xxxiv n.

35°

INDEX.

Beresford Correipondence^ The,

xxxiii n.
Bernard, P., 313
Bsrruyer, 313
Berry, Mr. H. F., v
Besci Jacci (? Beshiktash), 120
Betham, Sir Wm., x
Bethlehem, 192, 213; arrival at,

215 ; the Altar of the Manger,

217 i town of, 219
Biscay, Bay of, 38
Black Mark, xxxiii

Sea, The, 45, 105, 108, 120

Bodendoes, The, 41

Bologna, 305

Boniface of Ragusa, 206 n.

Bookbinders, Turkish, 132

Botany, observations on, 49, 50,

60, 84, 86, 106, 146, 248, 258,

262-3
Bournabat, 83, 84
Boxing Bishop, The, xxxiv
Boyd, General Sir R., 53
Bozeta, The hill, 193
Brighton, 271 seq., 346 n.
Brissot, 301
Brussels, xix, 320 se^.
Buckingham, Marq. of, xxxiv n.
Bucks in Dublin, xiii
Bunbury, Sir Chas., 274 n.
" Burn-Chapell Whaley," xi
Burns, Robert, xv
Burying-ground, A Turkish, 88

C — , Duchess of, 271

C — , Mr., 272

C — , Viscount, 281

Caiffa, 167, 237

Calais, 321,323

Callaburne, Cape, 162

Callister, Thos., quoted, xxiii

Cambon, 314

Camille, Prince, 295

Candia, 69, 266

Capitan Pacha, 112, 115, 120

Caravan, Description of, 76, 77

Carmel, Mt., 167, 237

Cassenove, Miss, 292

Castlereagh, Lord, xxvi

Catholic University of Ireland, xi

Cauterets, 12

Cerigo, 65, 266

Certificate of visit to Nazareth,

Copy of, xliii, 224
Certificate of visit to Jerusalem,

xliii, 342
Chambery, 303
Chan, The, 236
Chandler's Travels in Asia Minor,

157
Chappell, or Chapell, Elizabeth,

viii, X n.
Chesterfield, Earl of, ix
Chios, 70
Choiseul-Gouffier, Count de, 138,

34°
Chosroes, King of Persia, 208

Cicero, 195

Cistern of Arcadius and Modestus,

133

of Basilica, 128

ClanwiUiam. Ste Meade.
Clare, Lord. See Fitzgibbon, J.
Cloncurry, Lord, xv, xxvii ; his

Personal Recollections quoted,

xvii, XXX, 292, 344
Clonmell, Lord, xv
Coffee, Jack, xxxiv
Comnenus, Isaac, 253
Constantine the Great, 123, 128,

i3'> 135, 165, 197
. Paleologus, 90, 134

\ — ix, 134

Constantinople, arrival at, 102
■ description of, 103

-154. Appendix
Constantinople, The Sloop, 155
Cook, 34
Cork, XXXV
Cornelius Nepos, 90
Cornwallis Correspondence, The,

quoted, xxvi
Cornwallis, General, 47
Corsea (Phurni), 163 n.
Cosby, Admiral, 48

INDEX.

351

Costello, xxxi

Courtney, Miss, xviii, xx, xxvii

Cox, Mr., His Travels, 165

Creevey Papers, The, xxxix

Crete, 69, 266

Critheis, the mother of Homer,
158

Croker (T. Crofton), xvii, 347

Cromwell, Elizabeth, viii

— Frances, viii

Henry, viii, ix

Oliver, vii-x

Robert, viii

CufF, Rt. Hon. James, xxxiv

Cullen, Cardinal, xi

Curregonde, Madlle., 106

Cyclades, The, 69

Cyclops, 65

Cyprus, xl, xli ; arrival at, 238 ;
its wine, 247, 257 ; its divisions,
254 ; its products, ceremonies,
etc., 254-265. Appendix

Cyrus, 194

Daedalus, 160

Daly's Club, xiv, xxix

Dardanelles, The Castle of the,

155, 156
Darius, 194
David, King, 193, 219
Deal, xvii, 37, 327, 328
De Bouligny, Mons., 105
Delany, Mrs., her Autobiography

quoted, xiv
Delos, 70

Dervishes, Ceremonies of, I2i
De Tott, M., 105, 162
De Vezin, Mr., 238 n., 239
Devonshire, Duchess of, 292,

297 seq., 306
Diana, Fountain of, 84

Temple of, 159

Digby, Earl, 344

Dillon, Count Arthur, xix, 309,

311, 315 i duel with, 316 sej.

Dillon, Count Arthur, his plan to

assassinate Whaley, 318
Diocletian, 160
Dion Cassius, 255
Dobbin, Dr. Orlando T., xl
Douglas, xxii seq.
Dover, the York Hotel, xxix, 326
Drinkwater's " Siege of Gibraltar,"

50, 53 "•

Drogheda, Lord. See Moore

Dromore, Bishop of, 230 n.

Dublin, its condition in Whaley's
time, xiii seq.

, return to, from Jerusalem,

270, 285 ; return to, after im-
prisonment, 332

Dublin University Magazine,
quoted, xxxi

Dunkirk, 321

Dutton, Ralph, 274 n.

E — , Madam, 244 seq. ; her

brother, ib.
Eighteenth Foot, The, 53
Elisha and Elias, Dwelling-place

of, 237
Elliot, General, Lord Heathfield,

50, 53
Elliot's Parlour, 5 1
English, Buck, xiii, and n.
Enniscorthy, xvi, xxv
Entraigues, 224
Ephesus, 159
Episcopi, 239 n.
Escape, H.R.H.'s. 274 n.
Esma, Sultana, 129
Etna, Mt., 65
Evans, Edw., in Irish Builder,

quoted, xxviii
Evian, in Savoy, 294 seq., 344

Famagusta, 248 seq.
Fangnana, 63
Farognana, 63

Feltham, J., Jl Tour through the Isle
of Mann, quoted, xxiv

352

INDEX.

Finch, Hon. Seymour, 104, 108,

115, 116
Fitzgerald, Tom, xxxv
Fitzgibbon, Rt. Hon, John, Lord

Clare, x, xx, xxv, xxix, xxxiii,

xxxix, 331
Fitzgibbon, Elizabeth, xxxiv n.
Fitzpatrick's Ireland before the

Union, v
Florence, 305

** Fly," Whaley's lap-dog, xxxiii
Fogia Nova, 161
Fons Signatus, 214
Foot, Lundy, xxxv
Forbes^s Barrier, 50
Forks not used by Turks, 251
Fort Anne, xxiii, xxvii, xxviii
Fort Anne Hotel, xxiv seq.
Fotcha, 161
Fowler, Dr. Robt., Archbishop ot

Dublin, xxxv n.
Fox, Chas. James, 276
Franklin, Mr., of the Pearl, 340
Freeman^i 'Journal, The, quoted,

XXX

French Revolution, The, 277 seq.

G — , Admiral, 275

G — , Major, 272

Gabbarus, Count, 309

Galata, 104, 108

Garat, 283, 312

Gelembeh, 94

Geneva, 303

Genia, 185

Gentleman's Magazine, quoted, v,

xxvii
George, Prince of Wales, xxv,

xxvi, 271, 274, 275
George Inn, The, at Knutsford,

xxviii
George's Quay, xxxi
Gerite, The, 114
Giant's Causeway, The, 63
Gibbon, Edward, xix, i, 298, 345
Gibraltar, 45 et seq.
, the batteries at, 48

Gilbert's History of Dublin, xiv n.
Gillford, Baron, xxxii
Gilly, Giuseppe, 166 n.
Gimine, Prince Victoire, 341
Goold, Thos., xxix

, Val,, xxix

Gou rvelle, Secretary of the Cciuncil,

312
Grand, Mons., xlii
Grattan's Memoirs, xxvi n., xxxii

n., xxxv n.
Green, Rev. H., xviii n., xxiii n.,

xxvi n., xxviii n.
Green, Turks not allowed to wear,

236
Greenfield, Mr. T. C, xxii n.,

xxxix

H — , La Baronne de, 105
Haliday Collection of Pamphlets,

xxxi n.
Ham, Arabs' aversion to, 230
Hamilton, Baron, xxxiii n.
Harleian Society Publications, x
Hassan Pasha, 112 seq., 115-118
Hauchpied, Le Contc de, 75 n.
Hays, Mr., Consul at Smyrna, 73,

75
Hegira, The date of the, 135
Hell-Fire Club, The Dublin, xiv
Henna, use of, by Turkish ladies,

143

Henry H. at Famagusta, 252

Herbois, Collot d*, 314

Herod the Great, 195 ; the House

of, 209
Herodotus, 188
Hervey, Lord, Ambassador at

Court of Tuscany, 305 ;

Whaley sells his carriages and

horses to, 306
Heureuse Marie, The, xvii, 160
Heydon, xxxii
Higgins, Francis, the Sham Squire,

XV, XXX

Hillary, Sir William, xxv n.
Holt*s Memoirs, xvii n., 347

INDEX.

353

Homer, loi, 158

Hook's Gurney Married, xvii

Horn, Elzearius, Iconographiie,

206 n.
Hortus conclusus, 215
Hubsch, Baronne de, 105
Huish's Memoirs of George IV.,

xiii, 274 n.
Huruge, St., 285

Ibrahim Calcussi, Deputy Gover-
nor of Nazareth, 178, 186, 189,
234, 237

Ida, Mt., 266

Ince's Gallery, 5 1, 52

Inscriptions taken down by
Whaley, xxxvi seq. ; Godfrey de
Bouillon, 198; King Baldwin,
199; under a picture of St. Paul,
200 i St. Helena, 204 ; Boni-
facius of Ragusa, 206 ; the
Virgin JVIary, 217

Irish Binding, v

servant, Whaley's, xxiv, 98

State lottery, First, xiv

Isidorus, no

Isle of Man, xxi, xxii

Isle of Man Examiner, The, xxviii

Isles des Anglois, 70, 157

Italy, 305 seq. ; the women of, 308

Jack, Buck Whaley's Irish servant,
xxiv

Jacobin Club, The, 279 seq., 317

Jaffa, 167

James's Powders, 242, 340

Jenin, 185

Jenkinson, Sarah, or Sally, xxviii

Jerusalem, arrival at, 191 ; Temple
of Solomon, 192; Whaley's
account of the principal revolu-
tions, 193 seq. ; Temple of the
Resurrection, 197, 208; the
Chapel of Adam, 198 ; the
Holy Sepulchre, 201 ; refer-
ences to Plan (missing), 201-

Jerusalem — continued.

207 i Basilica Constantiniana,
207 J the House of Herod, 209 ;
the House of Pontius Pilate,
209, 221, 222; the Armenian
Convent, 210; the Gate of St.
Stephen, 211 ; Mount of Olives,
211; Gethsemane, ib. ; Foun-
tain of Silva, ib. ; Solomon's
Palace, 212; Bathsheba, 211 ;
Valley of the Giants, 213;
Terebinthus, ib. ; Return to,
from Bethlehem, 220 ; Church
of Mt. Sion, 221 ; House of
Caiaphas, ib. ; Temple of the
Dedication, ib. ; Hospital of St.
Helena, ib. ; Street of the Cross,
ib., 222 ; Certificate of having
visited Jerusalem, 223, 224 n. ;
departure from, 223

Jezzar (or Jedzar) Pasha, 167-
172, 229

Julian, The Emperor, 196

Justinian, 135

Kakem, Calif of Egypt, 208

Kara-Burnu, 70 n., 162

Kassim-Pasha, 120

Kilakee, near Dublin, xiv

King, Sir Patrick, xxxiv n.

King's Bastion, The, 53

Knights Hospitallers, The, 198

Knights Templars, The, 198 ; in
Cyprus, 260

Knox's History of co. Down, xvii n.

Knutsford; its Traditions and His-
tory, Pref. passim

Knutsford, the town of, xxvii,
xxviii

La Fayette, 283, 284

Landport, 50

Larnaca, 238, 239

La Touche's Bank, xii, 22

Lausanne, xix, 293

Lavater, i

A A

354

INDEX.

Lawless, The Hon. Mary, xxvii

, Nicholas, first Lord

Cloncurry, xxvii
, Valentine, second Lord

Cloncurry, xv, xvii, xxviii
Lawlor, J., xxxii
Le Brun, Minister for Foreign

Affairs, 312
Lee, Messrs., 71, 72, 73, 74, 75,

81, 83, 157, 160
Leeson, Mrs., xxxiv n.
Leghorn, 307
Leinster, Duke of, xvi, 34

Street, xxxi n.

Lemnos, 157

Lent in Bethlehem, 220

Lesbos, 157

Lewis the Sixteenth, xix, 2, 280,

283, 284, 286; his trial, 311

se^. ; his death, 313
Librarians, Turkish, 132
Lisle, 320

Loftus, Dudley, xxxi, xxxiii
London, The, 37, 62, 67, 81, 157
" Long Bob the Turkey-cock,"

xxxii
Lort, Dr. Michael, 230 n.
Lottery, First Irish State, xiv
Lubomirski, Princess, 292 n.
Lucas's Coffee-house, xiv
Lundy Foot, xxxv
Lyons, 19, 20, 21

M — , Capt. See Moore, Capt.
M — , Capt. of the London^ 8 1
Macbride, Admiral, 327
Maccatitch (River), 99, loi

(Village), 100

Maceston, or Macestus, 100
Magnesia, 86, 89, 90, 93

,The Governor of, 91, 92

Mahomet, The Sepulchre of, no
Mahomet IL, ii, 123, 134
Malta, 267
Maltass, Mr., 83 n.

, Mrs., 71 n., 72 n.

Mamorta, or Mamortha, 227

Man, Isle of, Pref. passim

Manuel Comnenus, 132

Marat, 281

Maretimo, 63 and n.

Margotten, Madlle., 71

Marmora, Island of, in, 155

, Sea of, 155

Marsala, 64

Marseilles, 18, 267 ; the Lazaretto
there, j^., 308

Matapan, Cape, 65

Matte, The, 302

Maubourg, La Tour, 284

Maury, Abbe, 279

Mayer, Signior, a painter, 339

Mazzara, 64 n.

McCready, Rev. C. T., Dublin
Street Names, xxxi n.

Meade, John, Earl of Clanwilliam,
X, xi, xxxii

, Lady Anne, x

Meander, 89, 92, 160

Mecca, no

Meles, The River, 158

Melos, 70

Messaire (Cyprus), 254, 260

Milan, 305 ; its cathedral, 306

Minos, 69

Mirabeau, 279

Mitylene, 157

Mona's Herald, quoted, xxv n.

Monaco, Princess Joseph de, 292

Mons Mali Consilii, 213

Moore, Capt. Hugh, vi, xvii, xxix ;
his MS. Journal, xli seq. ;
extracts from, 339-43 ; his
Itinerary, or Route, 342 ; his
Portrait, xliii, 37, 54, 83, 98-
100, 189-90, 225, 226, 231

Moore, Mr. H. Armytage, xlii

, Lord Drogheda, xxxii

and n.

Moorfields, Whaley lodges in, 329

Morea, 65

Moria, 193

Moryson, Fynes, xxxvii

Mr. N — , xxxviii

Mr. R — , xxxviii

INDEX.

355

" Mrs. Whaley," xxxviii

MS. No. 2, xl seq. ; extract from,

343
Muires of Rowallane, The, xvii n.

N— , Mr. Sie R., Mr.

Naas, Lord, xxxii

Napolosa, 225-231

Nash, Beau, xxxiii

Nathan, The prophet, 193

Naublanc, Mons. de, 311

Naxos, 70 n.

Nazareth, 175 et seq.; the Con-
vent of the Annuncia-
tion, 175 ; the Altar of
the Annunciation, 177

, The Governor of, 177,

Certificate of
been at, 224
Whaley's return

233
, 225

having
to.

NeapoKs, li

Nebuchadnezzar, 194.

Negropont, 70

Neil, Capt., 81

Newcastle, co. Dublin, xvi

Nevifmarket, 275

Nicaria, Island of, 163

Nice, 308

Nichol's Leicestershire, x n.

Illustrations of Literature,

230 n.

Nicosia, 239, 241, 243 seq.

Noble's Memoirs of Protectorate-
House of Cromwell, x n.

Nottingham, Visitations of, x n.

o— ,315
O— T— , 309

Oglac Islands, 70 n.

Olympus, Mt., 66; in Cyprus,

254
Omar, Caliph of the Saracens, 196
Opera House, Dublin, xiv n.

Orleans, Duke of, 286, 289, 301,

314, 320
Orlow, Count Alexander, 113
Ormsby, Major, xxiii
Orr, xxxiii
Ostend, XX, 325 seq.
Ovid, quotation from, 160

P— , Miss, 27, 30

P — d, a Paris banker, 23, 24

Paddy Puff, Sir, xxxiv

Paddy Whack, xxxiv

Palamont, 87

Palecitro, 261

Panton, Thos., 274 n.

Paris, 24, 269, 277, 308 seq., 318

Park Street, xxxi

Paros, 70

Patarsa, 241

Patmos, 163

Pauolo, the Guide, 82, 86, 89, 95,

96, 98, 99, 100, 138, 148, 164,

226, 231, 232, 237, 238, 240,

241, 250, 343, 344
Pearl, The, 104, 115, 155
Pedia:us, R., 242, 247
Peloponnesus, 66
Pera, 104
Petion, 284, 285
Phokaia, 161
Phurni, or Corsea, 163
Pierotti, Jerusalem Explored, 198
Piscopi, 239, 246
Planta, History of the Helvetic

Confederation, 300 n.
Plunket, Peg, xxxiii
Plutarch, 90
Poco Roco, 50
Pompey, 195
Portland, Duke of, xxvi
Port of the Galleys, The, 129
Prince Louis de A — , 321
Ptolemais, 236

Quaresmius, Terra Sancite Eluci-
datio, Ig8 n, 206 n.

356

Queen's Gallery, 52

INDEX.

R — , Mr., Whaley's stepfather,

xxxviii, 10, 31, 32, 33, 35, 36
Ramadan, The ceremonies of the,

135

Raynal, 280

Richard Coeur de Lion, 212, 253

Richardson, John, xii, xxxviii

Rincy, the country seat of D. of
Orleans, 314, 318

Robert de Torneham, 254

Robespierre, 301, 314

Robinson, Mr., an Irish dancing-
master, xxviii

Rohan Rohan, Prince and Princess
de, 13 seq., 341

Rome, 306 seq.

Romoeuf, 283

Roscia Bay, 50

Rousseau, i, 280

Roux, J., 313

Russia, Empress of, 37

Rutland, Duke of, 47

" Rutland Gigg," a tune, xxxi

S — , The Abbe, a great antiquary,

134

, Capt., R.E., 55

Saladin, 197

Saltas, 41

Samaria, formerly Sichem, 188

Samaritans, The, 227, 228

Samos, 163

Santerre, 313

Sardinia, 62

Saussure, M. de, Les Alpes^ 293

Sea] a, 1 01

Scio, 70, 162

Scipio, Lucius, 92

Scott, Sir Walter, x

Scurlo, 243

Scutari, 108

Selim, iii, 154

Seneca, 42

Seven Sleepers, The Grotto of, 160

Severus, Emperor, 127

Sheehy, Buck, xiii

Shefa Amr, 175

Sichem, 227. See also "Samaria*

Sicily, 64

Sigeum, 156

Sinas, 41

Singleton, xxxiii

Sleator^s Ga%eteer^ xii

Smith-Barrey, Mr., 191

Smyrna, xvii, 71-83, 157

, the Circus, or Stadium,

158; its inhabitants, 158; the
Street of the Franks, 158 j the
Gate of Persecution, 159

Sneyd, Ralph, 71 n.

Sodom, 192, 219

Solomon, King, 190, 193, 194,
212, 214

Spalmatori Island, 163 n.

Spartel, Cape, 43, 44

Spezzia, 308

St. F — , Abbe, 273

St. George, the mulatto. Comman-
dant at Lisle, 319

, Sir Richard, x n.

St. George's Cave, 50

. Hall, 49i 51, 52

St. Helena, 176, i8g, 197

St. James, 220

St. John, where his Gospel was
written, 164

, the Evangelist, his coffin,

164-5

d'Acre, xvii, 167, 177,

219, 234

St. L — , Col, 273

St. M., Chevalier de, 309

St. Michael's Cave, 54 seq.

St. Vincent, Cape, 40

St. Peter's (Sardinia), 63

St. Stephen's Green, Pref. passim

St. Veronica, 222

Strabo, 256

Stewart, Sir James, x

, Susanna, x, 18 n.

Sultanas, Odalisks and Asakis, 125

INDEX.

Swiss, The, Observations on, 295
Switzerland, Visit to, 291 leq.

357

Tuscany, 305
Tyrawley, Lord, xxxiv n.

T — , Lord Chas., 292

■ , Mons. de, 13

Tallien, Madame, 301

Tandour, The, 72

Tandy, Napper, xxxv

Tangiers, 44

Tarbes, I2

Tartans, 109

Taygetos, Mt., 265

Tayler, Mrs., Whaley's daughter,

xxix
Tchesme, Turkish Fleet destroyed

in Bay of, 113
Temple, Geo., Marq. of Bucking-
ham, xxxiv
Tenedos, 157
Tercese, 44

Terra Sancta, Convent of, 215
Tersakhineh, 1 1 1
Themistocles, 90
Theodosius, Emperor, 128, 133
Theresina, a Cyprian girl bought

by Whaley, 343
Titus, The Emperor, 196
Tom, Whaley's little boy, 310,

322, 323
Top Hanna (i.e. Top Khaneh),

102, 115, 120, 122
Town and Country Alagaxine,

quoted, xi, xv, 347
Townsend, Dr., Bp. of Meath, x

Louisa, x

Trajan, The Emperor, 196, 255

Trapesa, 250

Trent, 305

Trimithia, 241

Troy, 156

Trusty, The, 48

Turkey, the Plague in, 147

Turkish bath, 79, 80

-, a, Billet-doux, 147

bullets, 80, 8 1

marriage ceremonies, 151

Uniacke, Col. Robt., xxxii n.

V — , Count de, 15, 16

Vallory, 284

Valois Club, The, 309

Veronica, St., 222

Versoix, 303

Virgil quoted, 68

Virgin Mary, the house where she

died, 221
Volney's Travels, 169
Voltaire, lOi
Vromolaxi, 256
Vulcan, 65

W — , Mrs., xxxviii, 310

W. M., substituted for T. Whaley's
initials, xxxviii

W — y, Secretary to a viceroy of
Ireland, 318-19

Wall, Coi., 315, 316 seq.

Walshe, M, R., in Ireland, quoted,
xiii n.

Ward, Rev. Bernard, x

, Hon. Robt., X

" Watch," Whaley's Newfound-
land dog, xxxiii

Waterpoint, 48

Watteville, Major de, 300 n.

Whaley, Anne, Buck Whaley's
mother, xi, xii

, Anne, x, 346-7

, Edward, the Regicide,

viii, ix, x

, Elizabeth, viii

, Frances, viii

, Henry, viii, ix

, John, viii, x, xi, xxxiii

, Mary Catherine, Hon.

Mrs., xxiii, xxvii, xxviii,
xxix, XXX

, Oliver, viii

358

INDEX.

Whaley, Rebecca, vui

, Richard, viii, x, xxix

, Richard Chapell, vil, x,

xi, xii

— , ^ Sophia, x

, Susanna, x

, Thomas, Buck Whaley*s

son, xxix, 310, 322

, Thomas, Buck Whaley,

hispedigree,viii(?y.i his portraits,
XV, xxiv seq. ; elected a Member
of Parliament, xvi j his journey
to Jerusalem, xvi seq. ; his
return to Dublin, xvii, xviii ;
opens house in London, xviii ;
visit to Paris during the Revo-
lution, xix i goes to Sv^itzer-
land, ib, ; retires to the Isle of
Man, xxi ^ builds Fort Anne
near Douglas, xxiii seq. ; becomes
M.P. for second time, xxv ;
marries Hon. Miss Lawless,
xxvii ; his death, xxviii j his
will, xxix i his leap from a
drawing-room window, xxix seq.^
326 ; his sketches, xxxvi j his
knowledge of Latin and Greek,
ib. ; his retirement from Ireland,
8; his birth, /-^. i his mother, g;
her second marriage, lO j his
character, ib. ; sent to France,
10; his famous wager, 34-5,
139; starts for Jerusalem, 37;
explores St. Michael's Cave,
Gibraltar, 54-9 ; reaches Smyrna,
71 ; leaves Smyrna, 83 ; at Con-
stantinople, 102 ; dangerous ill-
ness there, 139, 340 ; departure
from Constantinople, 155 i re-
turns to Smyrna, 157 ; leaves
Smyrna for the Holy Land, 160 ;
at Fogia Nova, 161 ; weather-
bound at Patmos, 163; reaches
Syria, 167 ; arrival at Nazareth,
175; leaves Nazareth, 185;
arrival at Neapolis, 188 ; reaches
Jerusalem, 191 ; leaves Jeru-
salem, 223 i certificate of having

W haley — continued.

been there, ib. ; certificate (copy)
of visit to Nazareth, 224; at
Napolosa, 227 ; return to St.
John d'Acre, 236 ; reaches
Cyprus, 238 ; arrival at Nicosia,
343 ; departure from Cyprus,
264; reaches Marseilles, 267;
three weeks in Paris, 269 ;
arrival in Dublin, ib. ; is paid
his bet, 270 ; remains about two
years in Dublin, 270 \ meets his
lady companion (Miss Court-
ney), ib. ; takes a house in Lon-
don, 271 ; presented at Court
and meets H.R.H. the Prince
of Wales, ib. ; at Brighton with
the Royal party, ib. ; adventure
with blacklegs, 272 ; makes the
acquaintance of Chas. James
Fox, 275-6 ; repairs to Paris in
1791, 277; his account of the
Revolutionists, 277 seq.^ opens
a bank for gambling in Paris,
287-90; visits Switzerland, 291
seq.\ meets Wm. Beckford, 295;
and Ed. Gibbon, 298; goes to
Italy, 305 ; returns to Paris,
309 ; loses money to Count
Arthur Dillon, ib. ; repairs to
Place Louis Quinze on the day
of the King's execution, 312 ;
describes the King's death, 313-
15; duel with Arthur Dillon,
315-17 ) escapes from Paris,
318 ; dines with Due d'Orleans
atLincy, 319; reaches Brussels,
320 ; Calais, 321; Ostend, 326;
his leap from a window of the
York Hotel, Dover, 326 ; Deal,
327 i overtakes his lady friend,
328; lodges in a London suburb,
329 ; imprisoned for debt, 330 ;
released by his brother-in-law,
the Irish Chancellor, 331 ; re-
turns to Dublin, 332

Whaley, William, x

Abbey, vii, 348

INDEX.

359

"Whaley's Embarkation," ballad,
xxxi seq.

Folly," xxiii

Wilkins (W. H.) Mrs. Fitz-

herberi and George /^., 346
Willis' Battery, 52
Wilson, Capt., xvii

Yakakiot, a mountain near Smyrna,

86 n.
York, Duke of, 276, 347
Hotel, Dover, xxix

Yachaku, 86

Zachonona, 92

" Zara," Whaley's lap-dog, xxxiii.

THE END.

BSADBDRY, AONEW & CO., LD., PHINTIM LOMDON ANO TONHMDOB.

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