Full text of "Rand-McNally guide to the great northwest : containing information regarding the states of Montana, Idaho, Washington, Oregon, Minnesota, North Dakota, Alaska, also western Canada and British Columbia, with a description of the route along the great northern railway ; gives the early history, topography climate, resources, and valuable statistics on the states comprising the great Northwest"

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a L. A. WALKER. Manager.

THE

RAND-McNALLY GUIDE

TO THE

Great Northwest

CONTAINING

INFORMATION REGARDING THE STATES OF MONTANA, IDAHO, WASHING TON ,

OREGON, MINNESOTA, NORTH DAKOTA, ALASKA, ALSO WESTERN CANADA AND

BRITISH COLUMBIA, WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE ALONG

THE NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY. GIVES THE EARLY

^^^ISTORY, TOPOGRAPHY, CLIMATE, RESOURCES,

AND VALUABLE STATISTICS ON THE

STATES COMPRISING THE

GREAT NORTHWEST.

By S. H. SOULE

With Maps and Illustrations

Chicago and New York :

RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY,

Publishers

HOOD RIVER, ORE.

Cloud Cap Inn

This famous
hostelry is
situated on
the north
slope of
Mt. Hood
within a few
minutes'
walk of its
living
glaciers.
Elevation
6,500 feet
with

unequalled
scenery and
" ozone
to burn."
Daily Stages
from
Hood River.

For Terms address MRS. S. LANGILLE, Hood River, Ore.

BOISE, IDAHO.

THE IDAN=HA

Leading Hotel of the Northwest.

"BOISE, IDAHO

200 Guest Rooms,

Single and En Suite

75 tilitfj Bath

Opened January,

1901

Enlarged January,

1903
Modern and Up to

"Date

12 Sample Rooms

for the accom"

modation of

Commercial

Travelers

Headduarters for

Mining Men

jimerican "Plan

Exclusively,

Rates:

$3.00 to $5.00

Per Day

IDAN=HA HOTE-L COMPANY, LTD., Proprietors

E. W. SCHUBERT, Manager

PREFACE

It is the purpose of this Guide to make that extensive terri-
tory, termed " The Great Northwest," familiar to tliose who
as yet have but a vague idea of its vastness, its attractions,
and it resources, and to give the homcseeker and the investor
rehable information, obtained after a thorough investigation
of every part of this great country.

President Jefferson builded better than he knew when, in
1803, he inaugurated the Lewis and Clark Expedition — an
enterprise that has resulted in immense benefits to the nation,
commercially and socially, creating new spheres for the in-
vestor and congenial surroundings for the homeseeker. The
only wonder is that greater numbers of those who are to-day
eking out a bare existence in cities, where the human con-
gestion is a menace to health and a bar to wealth, do not
realize the existing conditions — that in the Great W^est life
may be made worth the living, a competency may be earned in
a few years, and, independent, breathing the pure air of
heaven, surrounded by Nature's marvels, happiness and com-
fort may be enjoyed to the fullest extent.

It is only within a very few years that people of the eastern
states have realized what a wealth of scenery, or great nat-
ural resources, of hidden treasures, is contained in that sec-
tion of the country, and what rich returns for industry, energy
and brains are revealed in the magnificent progress of the
states of Montana, Idaho, Oregon and Washington.

The great iron highways spanning the continent have made
possible, as nothing else could, a close connection between the
Atlantic and the Pacific coasts, and what has hitherto been
regarded as a far away and unknown land is now within
easy reach. When one has journeyed across the Rocky Moun-

8 PREFACE

tains, with their awe-inspiring gorges, their marvelous rock
formations, and their rich colorings ; when he has seen the
mighty Columbia River with its long stretches of i^iacid wa-
ters suddenly leaping into foaming cascades and swift tor-
rents, its fleets of fishing boats and its great salmon canneries ;
when the blue depths of Puget Sound, that immense sea 1,200
miles long, with its countless harbors and bays, dawns upon
the vision; and when the splendid cities of Portland, Tacoma,
Seattle and Spokane meet his astonished gaze, the traveler
realizes for 'the first time that the younger states of the Union
are rapidly gaining for themselves a position in the commer-
cial world which those of older growth have hitherto held
unchallenged.

A great factor in the development of these Western states
is the industry and progressiveness with which the people are
imbued, and the fact that they have appreciated the wonderful
opportunities presented for financial gain as well as the great
advantages of climate and, consequently, physical benefits.
There is no premium ofifered for indolence, but steady appli-
cation and perseverence will bring the reward sought for, and
success will crown the efforts of all who determine to secure it.

The Publisher.s.

CONTENTS

PART I.

Page

Minnesota, . . . . . ii

DULUTH TO BrAINERD, . 12

Minnesota, . 15

North Dakota, . 19

Montana, 25

Yellowstone National Park, 32

Idaho, . 54

Washington, 55

Oregon, . 79

PART II.

Introduction, . . i

Early History, 2

Lewis and Clark Expedition, 6

ToroGRAPHY and Climate, 20

Timber, . 34

Agricultural Products, 36

Mines, 36

Fisheries, 38

Lands, 38

Emigration, 39

Commerce, 42

Minnesota, 46

North Dakota, 50

Montana, 56

Idaho, . 128

Washington, i6o

Oregon, . 247

En Route to the Pacific Nortliwest

ST. PAUL TO DULUTH.

MINNESOTA.

White Bear. — A typical Minnesota lake, St. Paul's sum-
mer resort, situated about twelve miles from that city.
White Bear is reached by frequent trains from St. Paul.

Stillwater. — Population, 12,500. About the year 1843,
while JMinnesota was still a portion of the territory of Wis-
consin, Stillwater became a thriving villlage. It was incor-
porated in 1854, and has steadily progressed in commercial
importance until it now ranks as the fifth city of the state.
The lumbering interests predominate, but other industries
have also assumed large proportions and have become im-
portant factors in the commercial life of the city. There
are large lumber and flour mills, feed mills, an agricultural
implement factory, large grain elevators, carriage and
wagon factories, foundries and machine shops, two boat
builders, and many other industries.

Wyoming. — Twenty-nine miles from St. Paul. From
here a branch line diverges. Midway between W^yoming
and Taylors Falls lie the gems of lakes in this immediate
region. There are five of them, known collectively as the
Chisago lakes, individually as Green, Big, Lindstrom, Chisago,
and Sunrise.

Taylors Falls. — Population, 500. The Interstate Park
and the Dalles of the ,St. Croix, reached only by the North-
ern Pacific Railway (Duluth Short Line), are situated at
Taylors Falls. The St. Croix Falls, Wis., are on the oppo-
site side of the St. Croix River. The states of Minnesota
and Wisconsin have set aside the land on both sides of the
St. Croix River — the boundary between the states — as an
interstate park. Within this area of about 400 acres are the
Dalles of the St. Croix, and the richly carved and eroded

12 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

bluffs bordering them. The Devil's Chair is one of the most
imposing columns of rock to be found, and near it is Pulpit
Rock, serving somewhat to mitigate the evil atmosphere of
the Devil's presence. The Old Man of the Dalles is a
remarkable profile, strongly resembling the profile of Wash-
ington. Two trains leave St. Paul and Minneapolis every
clay for Taylors Falls during the season.

Rush City. — Population, i,ooo. Has a brick factory, sash
and door factory, wagon factory, 200-barrel roller flour mill,
and warehouses.

Pine City. — Population, 1,000. Is the county seat of Pine
County. Has bottling works, brewery, and creamery. A
fine farming country is tributary and it is a first-class potato,
corn and stock market.

Throughout this region, between Forest Lake and Pine
City, and even beyond, those whose lungs need the tonic
properties found among pine forests, and those suffering
from hay fever, may come, certain that nature will afford
relief and build them up.

Hinckley. — Situated on Grindstone River, and has a popu-
lation of 400. The state has erected a fine monument to the
memory of those who lost their lives in the great fire of
1894.

Cloquet. — Population, 4,000. Has planing mills, paper
mill, pulp mill, and a national bank. Ships lumber and
paper.

DULUTH TO BRAINERD.

Duluth. — Population, 70,000. Named for Du Luth, an"
early explorer. Is situated at the head of Lake Superior,
and is the county seat of St. Louis County. Eight railroad
lines run into Duluth, making it an important railroad cen-
ter. It has a government land office, a board of trade,
chamber of commerce and produce exchange, banks (with
a combined capital of over $3,000,000), grain elevators, a
blast furnace, car works, iron and steel plant, large foun-
dries and machine shops, flouring mills, saw mills, blast
furnaces, a complete system of water and gas mains, and
electric street railways. Every branch of commercial indus-
try is represented here. The docks of the Northern Pacific
Railway, as well as those built by other companies and indi-
viduals, afford ample facilities for the unloading and ware-

MINNESOTA

COURT HOUSE, MINNEAPOLIS, MINN.

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

housing of the cargoes from the largest lake vessels. Re-
ceipts and shipments of grain, coal, oil, lumber, salt, ores
and fish are the leading items, but nearly every marketable
commodity is received and handled at this point in great
quantities. There is an inexhaustible supply of iron ore
near the city. Large shipyards are located here, and several
steel vessels have already been built.

Carlton. — Population, 700. ' The county seat of Carlton
County, situated at the head of the Dalles, on the St. Louis
River. Has valuable water power, and a slate brick manu-
factory. The shipments consist of lumber, in the rough and

ON ONE OF MINNESOTA S LAKES.

manufactured. This is the junction point with the Eastern
Minnesota Railroad.

Aitkin. — Population, 2,000. This is the county seat of
Aitkin County, situated on the Mississippi River. Supports
saw mills, stave, heading and hoop factories, and wagon and
sleigh factories. The county is fast becoming settled for
agricultural purposes.

A few miles north of Aitkin the Mississippi River has its
source in Itaska Lake, in the vicinity of which an immense
lumber trade is carried on. Pine trees are cut into logs and
floated down the Mississippi to the Minneapolis mills, the
yearly cut being nearly 200,000,000 feet. In the vicinity of
Aitkin an unlimited supply of hardwood offers great induce-
ments to the manufacturer. Two steamers run between
Aitkin and Grand Rapids, sixty-five miles north.

MINNESOTA

ST. PAUL TO PORTLAND.

MINNESOTA.

Anoka. — Population, 5,000. The county seat of Anoka
County, situated on both banks of the Rum River, extending
south to the northern bank of the Mississippi River. It has
saw mills, sash and door factory, planing mill, broom fac-
tory, barrel factory, flour mills, feed mills, starch factories,
creamery, and a boot and shoe factory. Potatoes, wheat,
corn and oats are the principal products. The shipments
are potatoes, grain, flour and lumber.

Elk River. — Population, 1,500. Is the county seat of Sher-
burne County, located on the Mississippi and Elk rivers.

DULUTII, MINN.

with good water power. It has a saw mill, flour mill, starch
factory, and creamery. This is a good farming country.

St. Cloud. — Population, 10,000. The county seat of
Stearns County, and is situated on both sides of the Mis-
sissippi River. It has saw mills, flouring mills, foundries,
machine shops, wook-working shops, elevators, a United
States land office, state reformatory, wholesale grocery
house, and harrow factory. Near by are extensive granite
quarries. A dam and canal control the water power of the
Mississippi River at this point. This is the center of a fine
agricultural district, and is one of the most progressive of
Minnesota's cities.

Sauk Rapids. — Population, 2,000. The county seat of
Benton County, situated on the east bank of the Mississippi
River. Has co-operative creamery, saw mill, flour mill and
some fine quarries of red granite. An excellent water

16 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

power, only partially utilized, renders this a good point for
manufactories.

Royalton. — Population, 900. Is on the Platte River, and
has flour, feed, saw and planing mills, and grain elevators.
Water power privileges suitable for all kinds of manufac-
turing can be had at this point.

Little Falls. — Population, 7,000. Is the county seat of
Morrison County, located on the Mississippi River. Plas
water power, flour, pulp and paper mills, sash and door fac-
tories, iron works, wagon ai»d agricultural implement fac-
tories, water works, electric light and gas plants, steam
laundry, brewer}^, pop factory, grain elevators, steam dry
kiln, saw mills, etc. Little Falls is the junction of the
branch line running to Morris, and for the "cut-off" to Sta-
ples. The line to Staples passes through a finely timbered
and agricultural country, which is being rapidly developed.
A very superior quality of white, hard brick is also manu-
factured here.

Brainerd. — Population, 10,000. The county seat of Crow
Wing County, beautifully located on the east bank of the
Mississippi River at the junction of the line from Duluth.
Crow Wing County has saw mills and numerous mercantile
houses. A dam has been erected across the Mississippi
River, developing power equaling 18,000 horse power, and
providing enormous storage capacity for logs above, also
furnishing power for an electric light plant.

The Leech Lake Country. — Northward from Brainerd the
Minnesota & International Railway extends through a won-
derful lake and pine region, well up toward the Canadian
boundary. Here the Ojibway Indian lives, as he has for
some centuries, more or less, primitively, picturesquely.

Among the points where good accommodations are to be
had are Pine River, Walker, Bemidji and Black Duck.
From Pine River Woman Lake and a large collection of
neighboring lakes are reached. On A¥oman Lake Kabe-
kona Camp is located. At Walker Leech Lake itself is
reached. Walker is a good sized town and the central point
of the Leech Lake country.

Bemidji is in the very heart of the lake country. Hun-
dreds of lakes lie scattered on all sides. At Black Duck one
is in a region just opening to civilization. Among the
important bodies of water in this region north of Leech
Lake are Cass and Winnibigoshish lakes, both very large.

MINNESOTA

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GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Staples.— Population, i,6oo. Brick is manufactured ex-
tensively. The surrounding country consists of good farm-
ing and timbered lands.

Verndale.— Population, 800. Near Wing River, which
furnishes good water power. Has elevators, flour mill, and
planing mill.

Wadena.— Population, 2,000. The county seat of Wadena
County. Has a brewery, flour mill, wood manufacturing
plant, and machine shop. This is the junction point of the
main line with the Fergus Falls branch running to Milnor.

Perham. — Population, 1,500. Named after the first presi-

fAIRIIAVEN BEACH, LAKE SALLY.

dent of the Northern Pacific Railroad. Is situated near Pine
Lake. Has steam brewery, wagon factory, planing and
flour mills, and a grain elevator.

Frazee. — Population, 1,000. Has saw, planing and flour
mills, heading factory, and elevator. Large shipments of
wood and lumber are made from here.

Detroit. — Population, 1,800. The county seat of Becker
County, located on Detroit Lake and the western edge of
the "Lake Park Region." Mineral springs, containing
health-restoring properties, are an attraction. Has eleva-
tors and flour mills. Detroit Lake, surrounded by rugged
hills or low, wooded shores, is but one of a chain of lakes

NORTH DAKOTA 19

tlvat stretches southward. Here are Muskrat, Melissa, Sal-
lie, Buck, Little Pelican, Pelican, Fish, Lizzie, Crystal and
Lida lakes. The Pelican River is a bond of union down to
and including Lake Lizzie.

Winnipeg Junction. — Is situated on the Bulifalo River,
near Silver Lake, and is the junction point of the main line
and the Red River Branch, which runs to Crookston, Red Lake
Falls, Grand Forks, and Winnipeg through a rich farming
country.

Glyndon. — Population, 450. The town is located ten
miles east of Fargo and is the junction point with the Great
Xorthern Railway. It is an important grain shipping place,

DUCK SHOOTING ON DETROIT L.\KES.

being situated in the Red River Valley, the great grain pro-
ducing region.

Moorhead. — Population, 5,000. This city is pleasantly sit-
uated on the Red River of the North, which separates Min-
nesota from North Dakota, and is the county seat of Clay
County. It has flouring mills, ele^'ators, brick yards and
stock yards. Moorhead is well supplied with small manu-
facturing establishments and is an important shipping point
for farm products.

NORTH DAKOTA.

Fargo. — Population, 12,000. Is the county seat of Cass
County, and affords a United States land office, elevators,
flour mills, wholesale grocery and fruit houses, one of the
largest linseed oil mills in the United States, saddlery job-
bing houses, stores and manufactories, and all the various

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

branches of trade which go to make a thrifty and prosperous
city. Fargo is the third largest farm machinery distributing
point in the United States. Brick is manufactured exten-
sively. Since the great fire of June 7, 1893, the entire city
has been rebuilt and is now the finest appearing city in the
state. A large flax fiber mill takes care of all the straw
grown by the farmers in the vicinity. The product is
pressed into bales and shipped east. Fargo is favorably
situated on the Red River, in the center of the rich agricul-
tural belt of the renowned Red River Valley. Fargo is the
junction of the Dakota and Minnesota divisions, and of the
Fargo & Southwestern branch.

Casselton. — Population, 1,200. Wheat, barlc)-, flax and

STRE2T SCENE, F.ARGO

pork are the principal products. This is the junction of the
main line and the Casselton branch.

The Red Ri\er \',\llev. — West of Fargo, passing through
Mapleton, Dalrymple, Casselton, Wheatland, Buffalo. Tower
City, etc., the traveler is traversing the famous Red River
Valley, the most noted hard wheat region of the world.
It is level as a floor, the soil is as black as coal, and
it produces wheat and flax, especially, of an unequalled
quality and in enormous quantities. Corn is also being
raised to a considerable extent. As there are almost no
fences to be seen, the whole valley appears as one vast
wheat field as far as the eye can range. The valley is about
half and half in Minnesota and North Dakota, the Red River
being the dividing line between the states. There are here

NORTH DAKOTA

raised, on an average, from 40,000,000 to 60,000,000 bushels
of wheat yearly.

Valley City. — Population, 2,500. This is the county seat
of Barnes County and is located on the Cheyenne River. It
supports a steam flouring mill, elevators, electric light,
water works and telephone systems, and the State Normal
School. It is a fine grazing and grain growing section, and
wheat, flour and small grains are the principal shipments.

Jamestown. — Population, 2,297. This is the county seat
of Stutsman County and is situated in the beautiful valley of

THRESHING WHEAT IN NORTH DAKOTA.

the James River, which furnishes good water power. The
city has elevators, the North Dakota Presbyterian College,
a flouring mill, a creamery, brick and stone kilns, etc. The
Devil's Lake branch of the Northern Pacific Railway, run-
ning to Leeds, and the James River branch, running to
Oakes, at which point connection is made with the Chicago
& North-Western Railway, start from here. Connection is
made at Edgeley with the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul
Railwav. The products here are wheat, oats, flax, barley
and ^•egetables. Grain is the principal shipment, and stock-
raising is receiving much attention.

Bismarck. — Population, 2,200. Bismarck is the capital of

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

North Dakota, and the county seat of Burleigh County. It
has a fine capitol building, St. Clary's Catholic Seminary,
and a United States land office. All' branches of trade are
well represented. The products are wheat, oats and pota-
toes, and a good farming country is also tributary, the lands
to the north, in the Painted Woods district, and around
Washburn, being especially fine. This section has been
rapidly settled within the last two years by a fine class of
farmers. Immense deposits of lignite coal underlie the prai-
rie country and provide a low-priced and inexhaustible
supply of fuel. There are extensive mines at Wilton and

NORTHERN PACIFIC RY. STATION, RISMARCK, h. D.

Washburn, on the B. W. & G. F. Railway. Fort Lincoln, a
new military post, is in process of construction just south of
Bismarck. Steamers receiving and discharging general
merchandise and supplies run occasionally to and from
upper Missouri River forts, posts and landings. Williams-
port, Winchester, Fort Yates, and Standing Rock Indian
Agency, to the south, are reached by stages daily, except
Sunday. Fort Stevenson, Fort Berthold Indian Agency,
and Villard, in the Alouse River country, to the north, are
reached by stage daily, except Sunday, from Washburn.
The Bismarck, \\'ashburn & Great Falls Railway extends
from Bismarck to W'ashburn.

Mandan. — Population, i,8oo. This city is the county seat
of Morton County and is situated on the west bank of the

NORTH DAKOTA 23

Missouri River. Mandan has large railway machine shops, a
roller flouring mill, an elevator, a court-house and jail, a school
building, electric light and water-works systems, etc. Busi-
ness blocks of a superior red brick — home manufacture —
have been completed. An excellent Cjuality of lignite coal
is being mined for commercial and railroad purposes a few
miles west of the city. Two iron wagon bridges over the
Heart River give easy communication with the rich farming
valleys of "Custer" and "Little Heart," five and twelve
miles southwest, respectively. -Five miles south from Man-
dan is what is left, of old Fort -Abraham Lincoln, General
Custer's old post, and from which he started on his last and
disastrous campaign against the Sioux Indians in 1876. The

HEART RIVER,

change from Central to Mountain new standard time is
made here.

New Salem. — Population, 400. The town has lumber
yards, flour mill, grain warehouse, creamery, elevators, and
a tannery. Lignite coal is found in abundance ; also excel-
lent clay for brick and tile-making.

Glenullen. — Population, 450. Has lumber j^ards and a
flour mill. There is an abundance of good coal here, and
clay for brick-making is also found in this locality.

Hebron. — Population, 500. This is the headquarters for
stock, cattle and sheep, between Dickinson and Mandan. It
has roller mills, creameries, grain elevators, lumber yards,
implement warehouses, stock yards,, etc.

Dickinson. — Population, 2,200. This city is the county
seat of Stark County, and is located on the Heart River.
The products are wheat, oats, corn, barley, and potatoes.

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

This is one of the largest cattle-shipping points on the
Northern Pacific line. Sheep-raising has grown (luring the
past few years to be one of the principal industries. Exten-
sive beds of lignite coal are located east of Dickinson, and
large quantities are being mined for shipment east and west.
Medora and Little Missouri (Medora P. O.).— Population,
200. This is the central point for Pyramid Park, being but
four miles distant from Cedar Canyon, and six miles from
the burning coal mines. Both places abound in weird and
magnificent scenery, full of interest to scientists and wonder
to pleasure seekers. An army of spires, bluffs, hills, buttes,
and castled cliffs rise from the plain, garbed in strong and

A NORTH DAKOTA FARM.

Striking colors that glow here and there like fiery beacons.
These hills, washed by the eternal rains, have been eroded
into most perfect cones, pyramids, and squares, which are
circumvallated by ragged, twisting ravines gouged out by
the torrential and ephemeral floods, which use up their spas-
modic energy in forming the gulches. The coal beds have
burned out — and in places are still burning — and the parti-
colored hills are the residuum — here virtual ash, there a
slag. These buttes and draws are covered with a most suc-
culent grass that furnishes feed for thousands of cattle, and
the gulches provide them shelter.

West of Medora a few miles the train passes through an
interesting prairie-dog town.

MONTANA

MONTANA.

Wibaux. — Population, 300. Situated on Beaver Creek,
Wibaux is in the midst of a fine grazing country, and large
horse, cattle, and sheep ranges are in the vicinity. Lignite
coal is found in abundance.

Glendive. — Population, 1,500. The county seat of Daw-
son County, located on the Yellowstone River. It is the
junction of the Missouri and Yellowstone divisions of the

PRAIRIE DOGS AT UOME.

Northern Pacific. It is the distributing point for a large
area of fine country, and produces wheat, barley, corn, rye,
oats, and vegetables, and shipments are made of cattle,
horses, sheep and wool. Stages are run tri-weekly between
here and Fort Buford, a distance of eighty miles.

Miles City. — Population, 1,938. This city is the county
seat of Custer County, situated on the Yellowstone River,
at the mouth of the Tongue River. It has a United States
land office, water works, brick yard, hospital. State Reform
School, convent, wool house, telephone line, and stores. It

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

is the wool center for eastern Montana, and also produces
oats, wheat, corn, barley, and potatoes, while its shipments
are stock, wool, beef, hi'des, etc. Miles City is the banking
and general business point for the large area of cattle coun-
try both north and south of the Yellowstone River.

Fort Keogh. — Population, 500. A military post of nine
companies occupies the fort. It is located two miles west of
Tongue River, and half a mile south of the Yellowstone
River.

The Custer Fight and Battlefield. — The impression ex-

GROUP OF OFFICERS OF THE SE\ENT]T

.->. CAVALRY.

ists, particularly among eastern people, that the spot where
Custer and so many of his men laicl down their lives is far
remote from transportation lines, and difficult of access.
That was certainly true on that fated 25th of June, 1876,
when disaster overtook the Seventh United States Cavalry.
But now the Custer battlefield is only about the same dis-
tance— forty miles — from Custer station, on the Northern
Pacific Railway, that Washington is from Baltimore.

Custer Station is near the mouth of the Big Horn River,
and the ride, by private conveyance, up the valleys of the

MONTANA

Big Horn and Little Big Horn rivers to the battlefield, is
one of exceeding interest, and, at places, of beauty.

From Billings it is but a seventy-five miles' stretch via
the Burlington Route, which there connects with the North-
ern Pacific, to the same spot, if one chooses to go entirely by
railway.

In May, 1876, a triangular campaign was inaugurated
against the Sioux and allied

tribes. From Fort Fetterman, . -"""^^ ~"^-^.

Wyo., General Crook, the < \

greatest Indian fighter of his
day, marched north with 1,000
men ; from Fort Abraham
Lincoln, Dak. (now Xorth
Dakota), went General Terry
westward with another thou-
sand ; from Fort Ellis, near
Bozeman, Mont., General Gib-
bon marched eastward with
about 450 men.

On June 21, Terry's and
Gibbon's commands formed
junction near the mouth of the
Rosebud River. Terry in su-
preme command.

At this point a plan of campaign was adopted, and in pur-
suance thereof Custer and the Seventh Cavalry started, at
noon on June 22, up the Rosebud River, to strike a broad
Indian trail that Reno had found during a previous scout.

Custer was in comand of his regiment on this march, and
there were twelve troops or companies, and the munber of
men aggregated about 550 or 600.

It must be borne in mind that the phrase "Custer Battle-
field" includes three distinct fields of battle: Reno's point
of attack in the valley proper, the bluffs across the river to
which he retreated and where the Indians attacked him, and
Custer's own battlefield some miles down the river from the
scene of Reno's engagements.

Reno's attack upon the Indians was at a bend of the river
on the west bank, about two miles from where he forded the
stream. Custer's field of carnage was more than four miles
down the stream from Reno's BlufTs, on the high ground

GENER.AL CUSTER.

28 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

which was a continuation of the line of hills where the In-
dians penned in Reno.

The number of Indians at that time camped in the valley
has been a fruitful theme for disputation. There were cer-
tainly 1,500 warriors, and there may have been twice that
number, or even more. They were well armed with the
most improved American rifles, bows and arrows, and their
usual stone implements of war.

These Indians were mostly of the Uncpapa, Brule, Oga-
lalla, Minneconjou, and Sans Arcs bands of Sioux, assisted
by the Cheyennes and a few from one or two other tribes.

LOOKIN'G SnUTIUVEST FROM CUSTER MONUMENT.

Reno attacked the Indians at the south end of their village
and was quickly routed and driven to the blufTs across the
river in a panic rout, losing many men killed and wounded,
the latter being of course despatched by the Indians as soon
as captured.

Before Custer could get anywhere near that part of the
village which he expected to attack, Reno was defeated and
driven off.

After Custer left the remainder of the command he sent
back two couriers, but this was before he sighted or came in
contact with the Indians.

The Indians attacked, not from the river, but on the
flanks and rear. The horses were, most of them probably.

MONTANA

21»

first stampeded, which insured disaster, for they carried the
reserve ammunition. But few dead horses were found, the
Indians capturing the most of them alive.

Custer's fight lasted from thirty to forty-five minutes, the
Indians say, and he was simply overwhelmed and cut to
pieces.

The detachments or troops were stationed, apparently,
at different points, somewhat remote from each other, where
they fell fighting, generally well grouped together. At a

CUSTER HILL, FROM LITTLE

HORN RIVER.

few places one or two bodies were found, as if the victims
had made efforts to escape, but not one succeeded.

The total casualties were 265 killed and fifty-two
wounded, for both Custer and Reno. The Indians' loss has
never been satisfactorily known to the whites.

Where each trooper fell a marble stone marks the spot,
and where it was an officer the stone bears his name and
rank.

Most of the officers' bodies were afterward removed, and
Custer's body now rests at West Point. Lieutenant Crit-
tenden's body lies in an enclosure over at the end of the

30 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

ridge where he fell, and it is stated that Lieutenant IMcIn-
tosh's body remains where it was found, and is buried down
in the valley proper. The spot where he fell is marked by
the con^'entional headstone.

Since the Custer battle, the Custer field itself, enclosed by
a wire fence, has been made a national or soldiers' cemetery.
From the old forts and battlefields scattered throughout the
Northwest, bodies have been removed to this spot, and now
occupy a considerable area of it.

Billings. — Population, 3,221. Billings is the county seat of
Yellowstone County, and is the commercial, financial, rail-
road, and distributing center for the country for a radius of
150 miles. It is situated at the first crossing of the beautiful
Yellowstone Ri^-er, and is the largest wool-shipping point
in the state. The city is situated at the mouth of the famous
Yellowstone Valley irrigating ditch, thirty-nine miles in
length, and the Canyon Creek and other smaller ditches.
This valley produces the choicest wheat, oats, barley, vege-
tables and small fruits of all kinds, besides apples, corn, and
alfalfa and other tame grasses. Located in a valley which
produces the needs of a city with 25,000 people, with ever-
lasting stone quarries, cheap coal, an abundance of water,
and with its stock range to the north and south for a dis-
tance of two hundred miles, Billings offers to the investor
or the home-seeker great inducements. Two million acres of
the once noted Crow Indian Reservation have been thrown
open to settlement, furnishing homes and stock ranges for
all that come, and within a few hours' drive of Billings. The
B. & AI. R. Railway connects with the Northern Pacific at this
point.

At Pompey's Pillar Station, west of Forsythe and about
thirty miles east of Billings, Pompey's Pillar, made historic
by Capt. William Clark, of the noted explorers of 1804-6,
is seen to the north about a mile distant.

Laurel. — Population, 100. This is the junction of the
main line of the Northern Pacific and the Rocky Fork and
Clark Fork branches, which run to Red Lodge and Bridger.

Bigtimber. — Population, 1,200. The county seat of Sweet
Grass County, situated on the Yellowstone and Boulder
rivers. It is the outlet for an almost exclusivelv stock-
raising, wool-growing and mining section.

Springdale, located near the Yellowstone River, is the
station for the celebrated Hunter's Hot Springs, which are

MONTANA

only two and a half miles distant and are reached by hacks,
which meet all passenger trains. The Springs hotels are
open the 3'ear 'round. The water ranges in temperature
from 148° to 168° Fahr., and is in three groups, having an
aggregate flow of 2,500 gallons per minute.

Livingston. — Population, 4,500. Livingston is the county
seat of Park County, situated on the Yellowstone River,
three miles below the famous first canyon of the Yellow-
stone, otherwise known as the Gate of the Mountains. It
has the best system of water works in the state, two systems

LIVINGSTON, MONT.

of electric light, a system of telephones, a flouring mill and
lumber yards. It is the junction of the Yellowstone Park
branch with the main line of the Northern Pacific Railway,
and all tourists reaching the park by rail pass through Liv-
ingston. The city is in the midst of one of the finest stock-
growing and farming countries in the world. Tributary to
Livingston, in a commercial way, are the thriving mining
camps of Ckico, Chimney Rock, Horr, Aldrich, Bear Gulch,
Crevice, and Cook City. Horr has the largest coking plant
in the entire state. The garrison at Fort Yellowstone, and
'-.he various transportation lines in the park, all pay tribute
to Livingston and to Park County.

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.

As is now generally known, Yellowstone Park is prin-
cipally located in northwestern Wyoming. There is a nar-
row strip in Montana, on the north, and one in Idaho, on
the west.

As established by law, its area is 3,312 square miles. On
the northwest, north, east, and south it is hemmed in by
high mountain ranges, whose highest peaks attain an alti-

TIIE START THROUGH THE PARK.

tude of from 10,000 to 12,000 or 13,000 feet above sea level.
Between these ranges the Park plateau is an undulating one,
from 7,200 to 8,300 feet elevation above the sea. It is a
region of much rain and snowfall, and the forest develop-
ment is great and the park flora unusual and varied. The
great Continental Divide extends from the southeastern
corner northwesterly across the Park, and the tourist
crosses it on the way from Upper Geyser Basin to Yellow-

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

stone Lake, amidst a region of wild grandeur and primeval
beauty.

Road System. — Congress has decreed that travel through
the park must be in the good, old-fashioned way — over dirt
roads; that steam or electric railways, automobiles, etc., are
out of place there.

The more striking phenomena in Yellowstone Park follow
a well-defined zone some miles wide and with
an axial trend north and south from Mammoth - --,

Hot Springs. The road system, as planned,
follows down one side — the western — of this i

zone to Upper Geyser Basin, crosses the Con-
tinental Divide to Yellowstone Lake, and then •
runs north along the eastern side to the Grand ; . i
Canyon, over the Movmt Washburn-Dunraven
Divide to Tower Fall, and thence to Mammoth
Hot Springs^ The only uncompleted link in
this chain is from the Grand Canvon to Tower
Fall.

Transport.\tion and Hotels. — The trans-
portation equipment in the Park
consists of stage coaches made
especially to fit the necessities of
Yellowstone Park travel and are
drawn by four horses each.
They are open at the sides so that
the passengers can easily see the
country while riding along, and
are supplied with curtains to be
drawn in case of
rain or wind. The
coaches are of dif-
ferent sizes and will
hold three, five,
seven or more pas-
sengers each. Stop-
overs will be given
at or south of Mammoth Hot Springs without extra charge.
Parties desiring to stop en route and retain exclusive
use of the coach in which they commenced their journey
can do so on payment of half rates for the additional
time, as follows : a surrey accommodating three people, $7.50
per day ; coaches accommodating from five to ten persons,

PARK COACH.

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

$12.50 to $15 a day. Children under ten years of age, accom-
panied by parents or other persons in charge, will be granted

half rates locally in the Park for
hotels and transportation.

The Park hotels are first-class
in every respect, and have been
recently improved and modern-
ized. They are electric lighted,
steam heated, and advantageous-
ly located. The uniform hotel
rate for a stay not exceeding
seven days is $4 per day. After
seven days the rate is $3 per day.
Telegraphic messages can be sent
from the association hotels to
any part of the world. Bicyclists
are heartily welcome at the ho-
tels, and a bicycle trip is a thor-
oughly enjoyable one.

The Tour of the Park, — In
going to Yellowstone Park, the
main line of the Northern Pacific
Railway is diverged from at Liv-
ingston, Mont. From Livingston
to Gardiner, the gateway to the
Park, and fifty-four miles dis-
tant, a branch line leads up Para-
dise Valley and alongside the
Yellowstone River, affording a
most delightful ride, and one
that forms a fitting prelude to
what follows.

This line, which stops at the
northern boundary, is the only
one that touches the Park at any
point. On each of the transcon-
tinental trains that carry the bulk
of the travel to and from the
Park, both east and westbound,
a Pullman first-class sleeping car
is attached that runs between St.
Paul and Gardiner, and another
that runs between Gardiner and Seattle. Passengers in these

,¥■

EAGLE NEST CRAG.

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

cars bound for the Park remain in them until Gardiner is
reached and take the cars at Gardiner when leaving the Park.

Between Gardiner and Mammoth Hot ^piinj^s large, si\
horse stage coaches are run, the tourist readiing
the Springs in time for luncheon, and lea\nii.
there after dinner, when leaving the Park
The four-mile ride between these points is
full of interest. Electric Peak and Sepulchi c
Mountain being in full view, and a ride
along the dashing Gardiner River,
through the Gardiner Canyon being at-
tractive features.

The scenery along the Gardiner is
beautiful. The most striking and
noted of the conspicuous objects is
Eagle Nest Crag, a solitary round-
ed column upon the inaccessible
apex of which is perched an /
eagle's nest.

M A M M o T n H o T
Springs. — This place
is, as it were, the capital
of Yellowstone Park.

Here are Fort Yel-
lowstone and the mili- ;
tary commandant, the
latter also the acting
superintendent of the
Park ; the headquarters
of the United States
Engineer who has

GOLDEN GATE, YELLOWSTONE PARK.

charge of all engineering operations, road and bridge construc-
tion, etc., in the Park ; the offices of the hotel and transporta-
tion companies, and from this point the actual tour of the Park
is begun.

36 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

At this point the principal hot springs with their accom-
panying terraces are found.

These singular springs cover a wide area on the side of
Terrace Mountain. One tier succeeds another, and the
trail winds from one to the other by easy gradients. At the
base stand Giant's Thumb and Liberty Cap, extinct geysers
or spring cones of peculiar appearance. Above, lie Cleo-
patra, Minerva, Pulpit, Mound, and Jupiter Terraces. Still
higher are the Devil's Kitchen, Cupid's Cave, Narrow
Gauge Terrace, the White Elephant, Angel Terrace, etc.
At another point are Bath Lake and Orange Geyser.

After breakfast the following day tourists making the
regular tour take the coaches, being grouped as far as pos-
sible in congenial parties. Straight toward Bunsen Peak,
by way of Silver Gate and Hoodoo Rocks, they go, and then
the road turns to the right and Golden Gate opens before
them. On one side Bunsen Peak climbs skyward, on the
other the vertical yellowish wall of rock rises 200 to 300 feet
above. Soon the end of it is reached and the road leads out
and down a large and beautiful valley. Swan Valley is its
name. Following in succession come Willow Park, Obsid-
ian Cliff, a huge, black rampart of nature's glass of more
than 200 feet altitude, Beaver Lake, Roaring Mountain,
The Devil's Frying Pan, and Twin Lakes. Then Norris
Geyser Basin, with its noises and clouds, comes into view.

There are many springs, pools, and geysers at Norris.
The two finest geysers are the New Crater and the Mon-
arch. Congress Spring and the beautiful marble terraces
across the road from it command our admiration at once.
The Black Growler is the only steam geyser in the Park,
and it is always roaring. Constant Geyser is due to dance
and play every fifty seconds, and it is always on time. The
Devil's Ink Pot and the Hurricane Geyser are two more of
the family to be seen at Norris.

Along Gibbon River. — One of the most enjoyable drives
in the Park is that from Norris to Lower Geyser Basin.
By the roadside is Gibbon River. As the canyon grows
wilder, the river races along more madly. Rocks and boul-
ders strew its bed, and islands rise in mid-stream. Over
and around these it tears, scattering its spray over bush and
tree, until it reaches Gibbon Fall, where it tumbles down in
a wide, silvery sheet over eighty feet into still gloomier
depths.

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Leaving this canyon the road winds across a piney pla-
teau to the Firehole River. The cascades of the Firehole
are very interesting and the river itself is one of peculiar
beauty.

The Geysers and Hot Springs. — There are three im-
portant geyser basins in the Park — after leaving Norris
Basin — and they are near together. These are the Lower,
Midway, and Upper geyser basins. At the Lower Basin
are the Fountain and Clepysdra geysers, and the wonderful

GREAT FOUNTAIN GEYSER, LOWER GEYSER BASIN.

Paint Pots. The Paint Pots are curious things. The finest
of clay is superheated and continually boils in a sluggish
sort of way. The clay is of the most delicate hues of pink,
pearl, white, etc.

A mile and a half farther on, and easily reached by bi-
cycle, tourist wagon, or by walking, lies a hidden basin full
of nature's caprices. At the entrance stands the White
Dome Geyser. Beyond is a collection of exquisite springs
and pools, and the splendid Great Fountain Geyser, the
latter being one of the geyser captains of the Park, and a

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

regular leviathan. At the Midway Basin, four miles distant
from the Lower Basin, are Excelsior, the greatest geyser in
the world when in operation, Turquoise Spring, and Pris-
matic Lake.

The Upper Geyser Basin is the goal of the tourist, so far
as the geysers are con-
cerned. There are here
about a dozen geysers that
expel the contents of their
reservoirs to heights rang-
ing from one hundred to
two hundred and fifty feet.
There are as many more
that play to elevations less
than one hundred feet.

The Castle has a very
large castellated, siliceous
cone ; the Grand has none
whatever. The Oblong
and the Giantess each ex-
pel their contents from
deep, pit-like reservoirs,
but there the resemblance
between them ends. The
Bee Hive and Old Faithful
each have cones, as entirely
unlike as are their splendid
columns of water and va-
por.

Old Faithful is the trav-
eler's delight. It can al-
ways be counted on ; its dis-
play is always a fine one,
and it is maintained year
in and year out with, per-
haps, more regularity, not
only as to time but also as
to character, than any
geyser in the Park.

The Black Sand Spring is a beautiful turquoise-blue pool
having an outlet like unto a variegated ribbon. Emerald
Pool is another and larger, of a perfect emerald-green. Sun-
set Lake, the largest of them all, is the most superb and

OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER.

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

beautiful example of brilliant and varied coloring that was
probably ever seen, not in the Park only, but anywhere else.
Across the Contine-ntal Divide. — Between the Upper
Geyser Basin and Yellowstone Lake, where the road winds
across the Continental Divide, the ride through the Park
is especially wild and inspiring. Soon after leaving the
Upper Basin, Keppler Cascade is passed. It is in a canyon

KEPPLER S CASCADE.

at the side of the road, and the coaches stop there that tour-
ists may alight and view it.

In the midst of the mountains Shoshone Point is reached.
From the Point, Shoshone Lake lies shimmering far below
in the very embrace of the mountains.

At Shoshone Lake there is an interesting family of gey-
sers that some day will attract many visitors.

Yellowstone Lake. — The position of Yellowstone Lake
in'the Park tour is a most happ}' one. Hemmed in by moun-
tains, its shore line a most irregular and indented one, it

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 41

is not only a beautiful sheet of water, but it adds a needed
and most acceptable variety to the marvelous scenery of the
park. Its elevation, 7,721 feet, and its being navigated by
a steel steamer built in the Mississippi Valley and trans-

GRAND CANYON OF THE YELLOWSTONE.

ported across prairies and mountains to its mountain-girt
sea, gives still an additional interest and attraction to it.

To AND About the Grand Canyon. — The road be-
tween the lake and the Grand Canyon follows the Yellow-
stone River, crossing Hayden Valley. Two prominent ob-

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

jects are passed — Mud Volcano and Crater Hills. The for-
mer is a conical vent in the side of a hill, where there is a
continual belching of mud.

Crater Hills are also known as Sulphur Mountain. They

LOWER FALL, FROM POINT LOOKOUT.

consist of two low hills, between which the road runs, and
of which sulphur is one of the component parts. At the
base of one of them is a boiling sulphur spring, some ten to
fifteen feet in diameter.

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

While it is true that the geysers are the most unusual
of all that is seen in the Park, it is equally true that the
Grand Canyon impresses people the most profoundly.

At its head is a cataract nearly twice the height of Ni-
agara. Not quite a mile back of that is another fall more
than 100 feet high. Over the precipices found at these
points the great river flowing from the big lake and the
mountains beyond, plunges in two entirely dissimilar and
majestic waterfalls. Either one of them if situated nearer

BUFFALO IN YELLOWSTONE NAT L PARK.

to the centers of population would make the reputation of
its locality.

The canyon itself, disassociated, if it were possible, from
the falls, is a supremely perfect piece of creation.

The walls of this wonderful canyon drop, vertical and
jagged, deep into the abyss, succeeded by long slopes
smoothed and almost polished by the action of the elements.
Far down at the bottom rushes the mighty river, its deep,
beautiful emerald modulated by the foam, as it sweeps
around the bases of gigantic buttresses and tumbles over
small precipices, or rushes down bowlder-strewn declivities.
As for color — but hold ! If you remember how, in a kaleido-

44 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

scope, the colors apparently rush together indiscriminately
and without order, and yet arrange themselves in beautiful
harmony and combination, you may know something of
how these reds and grays, and whites and browns, and
yellows and lavenders, and blacks and greens, run together
in glorious and harmonic confusion.

As it concerns the tourist, there are about four miles of
this color symphony, although the canyon is twenty miles
in length. Its greatest depth is 1,200 feet, not more. There
is a fine road winding along the left brink from the head
above the Lower Fall, past Point Lookout and Grand View
to Castle Ruins and Inspiration Point. The places that
project out into the canyon have good trails leading to them
and they are railed about so that there is absolute safety.
There are innumerable views of the canyon to be had and
no two alike.

Wild Animals in the Park. — It is undeniable that,
to many tourists, the wild animals in the Park are a source
of as much interest as are the geysers. This fact justifies
the efforts made by the Government for the protection and
natural propagation of the game animals indigenous to the
region. While the present Park affords an unsurpassed
summer range and breeding ground for antelope, elk. deer,
bear, moose, mountain sheep, etc., it is not so well fitted for
a winter range.

Moose, deer, and antelope are found in moderate numbers.
The antelope range is such that coyotes kill many of them,
and hvmters have heretofore shot many when the animals
were compelled, in severe winters, to cross the line of the
Park.

There are several bands of mountain sheep in the Park,
but they are rarely seen except in winter.

The bears are very much in evidence. The black, brown,
and grizzly, all are to be found. They are inoffensive and
one of the sights of the Park.

There are thousands of elks and they frequent many local-
ities. In an enclosure at Mammoth Hot Springs there are
usually a number of young elks and deer, and a study of
them is most interesting.

The buffaloes, or bisons, that once were so numerous in
the Park, have sadly decreased in numbers. How many
there may be is not really known, but there are probably not
to exceed fifty.

MONTANA

BozEMAN Tunnel. — Altitude, 5,550 feet ; length, 6,652 feet.

Chestnut. — Population, 500. This is a coal-mining town,
the output of five mines being shipped from here. It is the
junction for the Yellowstone Railroad, which penetrates the
rich coal fields at Hoffman, Kountz, and Cook. A recent
strike at the Chestnut mine opened up a vein of eighteen
feet of coal.

Bozeman. — Population, 3,419. Bozeman is the county
seat of Gallatin County, situated on the East Gallatin River.
It has the State Agricultural College and the State Ex-
periment Station, United
States Fish Hatchery, a
flouring mill, grain eleva-
tors, planing mill, brewery,
United States land office,
a Carnegie library and an
iron foundry. There are
extensive coal fields within
eight miles, and some val-
uable deposits of corim-
dum within fourteen miles.
Gold, silver and copper de-
posits are nearby. The sur-

W -%..»ff..- .twrty//iW«« .

STREET IN BOZEMAN, MONT.

rounding country is famous for its fine farms, which have never
experienced a crop failure, and the land is well timbered on the
streams and mountains. Heavy crops of wheat, barley,
oats, rye and hay are raised by irrigation, there being four
immense canals and numberless smaller ones intersecting
the valley.

Manhattan. — Population, loo. Is situated in the center of
the beautiful Gallatin Valley, on the west banks of the West
Gallatin River, which furnishes water power and abundant
supply for irrigation. This point is the center of a fertile
farming country. Here is located one of the largest grain

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

elevators west of St. Paul, also a large malt house. The
town has a lumber yard. One of the largest irrigation
canals in Montana is easily accessible from Manhattan. The
lands along this canal are considered among the finest in
the West for agricultural purposes.

Logan. — Population, 150. This is a junction point where
the line via Helena, and the "Butte Line" to Butte, diverge,
and is situated on the Gallatin River.

PAINTED ROCK AND MISSOURI CANYON GALLATIN RANGE, MONT.

The Gallatin Valley. — The Gallatin Valley, which ex-
tends from Bozeman to Logan, is hemmed in on the north-
east by the Bridger Mountains and on the east by the Gal-
latin Range. The general elevation of the valley ranges
from 4,000 to 4,500 feet, and it is one of the most fertile
as well as most beautiful valleys in the Northwest. Clover,
alfalfa, wheat, and particularly barley, thrive wonderfully.
Irrigation is necessary on the bottom lands, but not on the
bench lands, and there is an almost unlimited water supply

MONTANA

coming from the various streams that form the Gallatin
River.

Lombard. — This is the junction point with the Montana
Railroad, this line passing through the picturesque Sixteen-
Mile Canyon, the line being completed through to Lewistovvn
during the summer of 1903. At Dorsey stage connections are
made with White Sulphur Springs, distant seventeen miles,
the county seat of Meagher County, and noted for its hot
sulphur springs, with their
great medicmal properties ; at
Freeman's, stage connections
are made with the mining
camp of Castle, distant five
miles ; at Martinsdale, connec-
tion is made h\ stage with the
flourishing Copperopolis min-
ing district. At Twodot, a
trading point situated m one
of the most fertile sections

A HELENA TPIOROUGMFARE.

of the Musselshell Valley, and at Harlowton (formerly Me-
rino), and Lewistown, connections are made with Ubet, Gar-
neill and all important points in this section of Montana, in-
cluding the Judith basin and Utica and the flourishing mining
camps of New Year, Gilt Edge, Maiden and Maginnis.

Townsend. — Population, 446. Townsend is the county
seat of Broadwater County and is situated on the Missouri
River. A number of silver and gold mines in the immediate

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

vicinity are being worked on the old plan, without ma-
chinery. The principal products of the surrounding valley
are wheat and oats. A coach runs daily to Hassell (Old St.
Louis) gold mining district, ten miles distant. This district
is being extensively worked, the ore being free milling and
of a high grade.

Prickley Pear Junction, or East Helena. — Population,
1,200. This is the junction point of the main line with the
Wickes, Boulder and Elkhorn branches. Large smelting
works are located here, and have a capacity of 250 tons per
day. The town is connected with Helena by an electric car
line.

Helena. — Population, 15,000. Helena is the capital of the

EAST HELENA SMELTER.

state, and the county seat of Lewis and Clarke County. It is
the commercial, financial, railroad, and distributing center
of the state. It has a building and loan association. United
States Circuit and District courts. United States land office.
United States assay office, offices of the United States Mar-
shal, Collector of Internal Revenue, Quartermaster of the
United States Army, State Armory building, an orphans'
home, and the Montana University (Methodist). There are
eighteen miles of electric car lines, one electric light and gas
company, and a power plant on the Missouri River, capable
of transmitting 10,000 horse power to the city for manufac-
turing purposes. It has a foundry, planing mills, breweries,

MONTANA

flouring mill, cracker factory, soap and candy factories, be-
sides other manufacturing establishments. Its jobbing and
retail trade is large. Helena is situated in the center of a
mineral region, unsurpassed in Montana or elsewhere for
the number and richness of its gold and silver-bearing lodes,
there being within a radius of twenty-five miles over 3,000
quartz lodes, which have been claimed and recorded, and
several hundred patented. Besides the gold and silver
lodes, veins of galena, copper, and iron are found, and mil-
lions of dollars will be invested in the construction of mills
and smelters, thus giving employment to thousands of men.
The branch railroad to Wickes. Boulder, Basin and Elkhorn,

PIONEER, MONT. FIRST GOLD FOUND NEAR HERE IN 1S52.

running fifty-five miles south, opens up celebrated mining
districts, and furnishes transportation to mines heretofore
almost inaccessible. That to Marysville, twenty-two miles
west, opens up one of the richest gold fields in the state.
The Prickley Pear Valley, covering an area fifteen by twen-
ty-five miles, lies north, east, and west of Helena, and is
famous for its fine crops. The mountains are covered with
bunch grass and fine timber, and are excellent stock ranges.
The exports consist of large quantities of bullion and ore,
cattle, sheep, and hides.

MuLLAN Tunnel. — Altitude, 5,548: length, 3,875 feet.

Garrison. — Population, 105. Is located on Hell Gate
River, near the mouth of the Little Blackfoot. Being the
junction where the Helena and Butte lines diverge, west of the

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

mountains, and the diverging point for Deer Lodge, Anaconda,
Butte, etc., makes it an important railroad point.

Gold Creek. — Population, loo. The first discovery of
gold in Montana was made near this place in 1852. The
town is eight miles west of Garrison, and has saw mills, a
store, and a harness shop. Valuable mines of silver and
lead are being operated in the Dunkleberg mining district,
twelve miles distant. Placer mines are at Pioneer, seven
miles distant.

Drummond. — Population, 150. This town is located in
the Granite Mountain mining region, and in the fertile Flint
Valley. Sheep, cattle and hay raising are the chief pursuits
of the people. The Phillipsburg branch of the Northern

MONTANA STATE CAPITOL.

Pacific connects with the main line here, running thirty-two
miles south, where the Granite Mountain, Bi-Metallic, Com-
bination, Sunrise, and numerous other mines are located.
One mine has in constant operation a loo-stamp mill, while
another has had ten stamps running for twenty-five years,
and has during that time paid regular dividends.

Missoula. — Population, 7,000. Many rich mining proper-
ties are being opened up all around Missoula, which is the
county seat of Missoula County, and is located on the Mis-
soula River. It has good water power and is the distrib-
uting point for a large country around. The city has a flour
mill and elevator, large mercantile houses, a brewery, bot-
tling works. United States land office, a Catholic hospital
and convent, free public library, the University of Montana,
the division headquarters of the Rocky Mountain division

MONTANA

of the Northern Pacific Railway, and the roundhouses and
shops and Western Divisions hospital of that road. There
are two large and fertile valleys lying to the south and west
of Missoula, the foremost (the Bitter Root Valley) being
traversed by a branch of the Northern Pacific Railway from
Missoula to Grantsdale. Grain and vegetables of all kinds
are raised in these valleys, and fine berries and fruits are
grown there and in Missoula. Four miles to the south lies
Fort Missoula, a United States military post.

The Bitter Root Valley. — The Bitter Root River takes
its rise in the Bitter Root Range of the Rocky Mountains
about 100 miles south of Missoula. At Missoula it forms a
junction with the Hellgate River, from which point the
name Missoula is given to the stream.

NEAR FORT MISSOULA, MONT.

The Bitter Root Valley is of the same approximate length
as the river. It varies in width from a few miles at some
places to ten or twelve miles at other points. The valley
is bordered on the west by the high and majestic range of
the Bitter Root, which not only protects the valley from the
cold, western winds, but supplies it with innumerable
streams of the purest crystal water. The range is a very
lofty one and the snow lies among its higher recesses the
year round. In an agricultural way this valley is a marvel.
Its general elevation is between 3,000 and 4,000 feet, which
allows the range of products to be a wide one. Hay farm-
ing has been carried on for many years, the proximity of
important mining camps giving an impetus to it. Timothy
and clover grow luxuriantly, and yield from two to four
4

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

tons per acre, being worth from $7.50 to $10 per ton, baled
and on the cars.

Dairying and poultry raising are very profitable, the
mining camps affording a stable market for all sorts of
farm and dairy produce. The valley seems to be specially
favorable for apple raising. In the opinion of competent
judges, it is not improbable that it will soon produce the

HOME OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAIN GOAT, BITTER ROOT RANGE.

best apples in the United States. The area planted to apple
orchards is very large and is steadily increasing. Pknns
and grapes are perfectly at home ; cherries grow fast and so
easily, and prunes grow so thickly that it is hard to believe
one is not gazing upon a new variety where they grow like
grapes, in clusters. Flavor and color are unusually fine in
the Bitter Root Valley fruits.

Irrigation is necessary in Bitter Root Valley farming, but
it is unusually inexpensive and easy. Fewer large canals

MONTANA 53

are necessary as there are so many small lateral streams
from the mountains. These can be easily diverted by small
companies, or even by individuals, and, owing to the angle
and uniformity of slope, are carried here and there with little
expense or physical difficulty. The larger canals are gen-
erally owned b}' those having large tracts of land, and, in
most cases, are taken out from the Bitter Root River. The
valley is well timbered and the mountains are heavily
clothed with forests.

De Smet. — The junction point for the branch line to the
Coetfr d'Alene mines.

Arlee. — Population 25. The town is located on the Flat-
head Indian Reservation, and all supplies for the Flathead
Indian Agency, four and one-half miles northeast, are re-
ceived at this point.

ANGE, FLATHEAD RESERVATION, MONT.

Selish is located on the Flathead Indian Reservation, and
is a growing town in the Flathead country. This is the
shipping point for St. Ignatius Mission, five miles north,
and the Flathead Lake country, seventy miles north. The
shipments from here are live stock, furs, and hides. From
Alay I to November i the stage leaves here three times per
week, for the foot of the lake, connecting with boat for
Kalispell, Demersville, Egan, Columbia Falls, and other
towns in the Flathead Valley country.

The Fl.vthead Indi.^ns. — At Evaro, the station at the
summit of the Mission Range, beyond Missoula, the rail-
way enters the Flathead Indian Reservation. The Indians
themselves, and their' cabins and tepees, can be seen here
and there as the train passes through the reservation.

The St. Ignatius Mission of the Catholics, reached from
Selish, is most interesting. It is an Indian school, ensconced

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

in one of the most beautiful situations in the world. The
glorious Mission Range lies directly back of it. A white,
narrow, never-ceasing cascade, 2,000 feet high, drops from
the upper altitudes to the glowing recesses below. The
Fathers are glad to have visitors, and those who visit the
spot will have something to remember for a lifetime.

The view of the Mission Range, from the divide between
Selish and the Mission, is one of those sights most often
seen in dreams and in imagination. The Mission, which
was establshed here more than a half century ago, is only
five miles, by a good road, from Selish. '

IDAHO.

Hope. — Population 300. Hope is located on the north
shore of Lake Pend d'Oreille, and is principally noted as a

LAKE TEND D OREILLE AT HOPE.

resort for summer tourists. Steamers make daily trips to all
points on the lake. Silver and lead mines have been discov-
ered at Lakeview, Blacktail, and Granite Creek.

Hauser Junction. — This is the junction point with the
Fort Sherman branch, running to Coeur d'Alene City, where
connection is made with the Coeur d'Alene l)ranch of the
Northern Pacific Railway for all the principal points in
the mines of the Coeur d'Alene district. Large shipments
are made here of wool and hay.

WASHINGTON

WASHINGTON.

Spokane. — Population 37,000. This is the junction of the
Rocky Mountain and Idaho divisions of the Northern Pacific
Railway, and the location of the roundhouse and large shops
of the road. Time changes here from Mountain to Pacific
time. Spokane is the county seat of Spokane County,
and the commercial metropolis of eastern Washington and
northern Idaho. It is beautifully situated on both sides
of the Spokane River, on the Idaho division of the
Northern Pacific Railway. The following branches of
this road radiate from Spokane : The Palouse & Lewis-

SPOKANE, WASH.

ton branch, which traverses the rich farming and fruit
country of the Palouse, Potlatch, and Clearwater valleys,
and is now being extended into the vast and rich agricul-
tural and mining regions of central Idaho and the BufTalo
Hump ; the Coeur d'Alene branch, which, with its connec-
tions, penetrates to the great Coeur d'Alene mining country ;
and the Central Washington branch, running west to Coulee
City through the heart of the rich Big Bend agricultural
section and connecting with the mines of Republic and
Okanogan. In addition the city has four other important
railroads. Spokane is rapidly becoming one of the great
mining centers of the west. The gold, silver, copper, and

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

lead mines in tlie vicinit}- give' an annual output of $20,000,-
000, and are making Spokane a city of great wealth. The
city is surrounded by vast areas of rich agricultural lands,
producing annually 30,000,000 bushels of grain and great
quantities of all temperate zone fruits, the latter finding
valuable markets in the mining camps and in eastern cities.
Forty bushels of wheat to the acre are common, and other
grains and agricultural products are raised in like abun-
dance. Almost all building material, such as the finest
lumber, brick, granite, limestone, onyx, and marble, are
found or are produced in the vicinity. Besides being a

FALLS AT SPOKANE, WASH.

mining, jobbing, lumbering, agricultural, railway, and
commercial center, the city is an important manufacturing
point, being provided by the falls of the Spokane River
with 32,000 horse power.

Many manufacturing concerns have already been estab-
lished and others are coming, lining the river banks with
mills and factories. The falls furnish power for a splendid
system of street railways and electric light.

Marshall Junction. — Population 100. This is the junc-
tion point with the Palouse branch, running south to
Moscow, Lewiston and Genesee, Idaho.

Cheney. — Population 1,200. This town is situated in a
good farming country, with abundant timber, and is on the

WASHINGTON

great plateau of the Columbia, 2,300 feet above the sea
level. There are several lakes in the neighborhood, three
possessing medicinal properties. It has a roller flour mill,
creameries, water works, electric light plant, State Normal
School and churches. The Central Washington branch
leaves the main line at this point, and runs north and west
to Medical Lake, Davenport, Almira, and Coulee City.

Sprague. — Population 1,000. Has flouring mill, water
works, and lumber yard. The products are wheat, oats,
and barley. Cattle and sheep raising is a feature of farm-

AN IDEAL WASHINGTON FARM HOME.

ing industry, while the shipments Consist of live stock,
wheat, wool, and flour.

Ritzville. — Population 2,000. The county seat of Adams
County. The place supports an electric light plant, lum-
ber yards, implement and agricultural stores, flouring mill,
and grain house. It is situated in the center of a fine farm-
ing and grazing country, and is the largest local wheat ship-
ping point in the world.

Pasco. — Population 400. Is the county seat of Franklin
County, is situated about two miles from the confluence
of the Snake and Columbia rivers, and is a junction point of
the main line with a line via Wallula Junction and the Col-

58 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

umbia River. The heavy bunch grass found in this section
makes stock raising an exceedingly profitable business, as
the winters are mild and good grazing can be had during
the entire year.

Hunt's Junction. — This is the junction point of the
Northern Pacific and Washington & Columbia River Rail-
road, running to Walla Walla, Pendleton, Athena, Waits-
burg, and Dayton.

Wallula Junction. — Population 250. This is on the line
of the O. R. & N. Co. east from Portland, at its junction
with the Northern Pacific Railway, and is located on the
Walla Walla River, about one mile from the Columbia.

Kennewick. — Population 150. Kennewick has a mild
and delightful climate which is specially adapted to the
raising of fruits, vegetables, grain, hops, etc. The town
is the distributing point for the country twenty miles north,
south and west. Large shipments of wheat, horses, cattle,
sheep, and wool are made from here.

Kiona. — Population 50. Situated on the Yakima River,
this town is in a fine valley well adapted to fruit raising.
The Horse Heaven wheat belt is five miles south, where a
fine grade of wheat is raised without irrigation.

Prosser. — Population 600. In the valley surrounding
Prosser are thousands of acres of rich land, principally
adapted to grasses and fruits, which are irrigated by ditches
from the river. The town is located at the falls of the Yak-
ima River, and is the station from which to depart for the
Horse Heaven country. It has flour mill, wool and grain
warehouses, and stores. There is water power in abun-
dance. Large shipments are made from this point of horses,
cattle, sheep, wool, and flour.

Mabton. — The stage leaves here daily for the Sunnyside
district, distance seven miles. Fare 50 cents

Toppenish is located on the east side of the Yakima
River. A stage runs to Zillah, at the upper end of the
famous Sunnyside irrigation region.

The YAKni.\ Valley. — In eastern Washington there
is to be found, probably, the most conspicuous example in
the entire northwest of what irrigation can accomplisl

The Yakima River rises in the eastern slopes of the Cas-
cade Range and flows southeastwardly into the Columbia
River, watering, in its course, one of the best valleys in
the west. There is a wide range of elevation and climate

WASHINGTON

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

in the valley, and necessarily, therefore, of products. At
Kennewick, near the foot of the valley, the elevation is less
than 350 feet, at North Yakima it is about 1,000 feet, and
at Ellensburg, in what is locally known as the Kittitas Val-
ley, it is 1,500 feet. The lands found here are of the usual
sagebrush variety, remarkably productive when watered,
and irrigation has made giant strides within recent years.
The valley affords good pasturage to cattle, sheep and
horses.

Almost every imaginable variety of product, both vege-
table and horticultural, is or may be raised here, the ques-
tion as to choice depending upon the profit per acre deriv-

YAKIMA VALLEY, NEAR NORTH YAKIMA.

able. Grains, except corn, are easily raised, but are com-
paratively profitless, the land being so valuable, and they
are little in evidence. Corn is not considered a sure crop,
but crops of it are raised yearly that would do credit to
Iowa or the Tennessee Valley.

Apples, cherries, peaches, apricots, plums, prunes, mel-
ons, and berries of all sorts grow to perfection. Alfalfa
is the greatest product of the valley. It is easily grown, is
cut from two to four times per season, and produces from
five to eight tons or more per acre. It is fed to thousands
of head of stock in the valley, and large amounts are baled
and exported. Land in the lower valley near Prosser,
Kiona, and Kennewick is equally as good as that in the
upper valley, and unimproved land, with water rights,

WASHINGTON 61

can be purchased for $75 per acre and even less. The large
areas of unimproved land are found in the Sunnyside coun-
try and in the regions about Prosser, Kiona, and Kenne-
wick. Around Ellensburg large quantities of timothy hay
are raised, and dairying is advancing rapidly.

What is known as the Sunnyside country lies north, and
back from, the railway. At the western end the valley is
narrow, gradually increasing in width until it is many
miles wide down around the town of Sunnyside, some miles
north from Mabton, the railway station, in the lower valley.
Since the large sixty-mile-long irrigation canal, with its

HOP DRYING HOUSES, LARGEST HOP RANCH IN WASHINGTON.

tremendous system of laterals, has been built, the country
is fast becoming transformed into a garden. Thousands of
people now li\'e there, and Yakima Valley products have
acquired an enviable reputation in the east, and heavy
eastern shipments are now made of fruits, potatoes, hops,
etc. The land found here is of great depth, very rich and
productive, and so easily worked that it is child's play to
cultivate it.

North Yakima. — Population 5,000. This is the county
seat of Yakima County, situated at the confluence of the
Yakima and Xatches rivers. The chief products of the
surrounding territory are hay, hops, fruits, vegetables,
grain, and cattle and sheep, for all of which a ready market

62 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

is found. The town enjoys a very large trade; annually
in the fall of the year 5,000 persons are engaged in picking
hops in the surrounding county; the state fair is held here
each year; the town has a flour mill, saw mill, machine
shop, evaporators, and creamery. Water power is abun-
dant and easily developed.

Mount Adams. — The traveler on the Northern Pacific
can see, while traversing the Yakima Valley, a vast moun-
tain to the west. This is Moimt Adams, 12,250 feet high,
named, presumably, after President Adams. Mount Adams
is peculiarljr a symbol of strength and majesty, even more
so than Mount Rainier, or Mount Hood. The Indians call
it " Pah-to," a high, sloping mountain. Next to Mount
Rainier — Rayneer — it is the highest mountain of the Cas-
cades.

As with nearly all the high Cascades, there is one central,
predominant dome peak of unsullied whiteness. The
northern and eastern sides of the mountain are precipitous,
but the peak is easily climbed on the southern side. This
mountain stands out in great prominence from the vicinity
of North Yakima and Ellensburg and is often mistaken for
Mount Rainier. The top only of the latter mountain is
visible from Ellensburg.

Ellensburg. — Population 3,000. It is thirty-seven miles
north of North Yakima and one mile from the Yakima
River. It is the count)^ seat of Kittitas County and the
railroad headquarters for the Cascade division of the North-
ern Pacific. The town has good water power, flouring
mills, saw mill, planing mill, also the Washington State
Normal School. Good bituminous coal, in five to eight foot
veins, has been found. Rich veins of copper ore have also
been discovered. Ellensburg is situated in the Kittitas
Valley, five to twenty miles long, and is surrounded on
the south and east by bunch grass hills and table lands,
and on the north and west by the semi timber lands of the
Cascade Mountains. The products are grain, hay, stock,
and the shipments are live stock of all kinds, wool, and
bacon.

Roslyn. — Population 4,500. This town is on the branch
line running from Clealum Junction, distant four miles.
It is the center of the great Roslyn coal fields, which supply
nearly all the towns in eastern Washington with fuel ; and
the iron ore fields north of Rosyln, known as the Upper Cle-

WASHINGTON

64 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

alum or Fish Lake, is one of the richest in the state. The
city supports saw mill, planing mill, brewery, cigar factory,
and a fine school house.

Stampede Tunnel. — Altitude 2,840 feet. The tunnel
under Stampede Pass is nearly two miles long and is the
second tunnel in length in the United States, being ex-
ceeded only by the Hoosac Tunnel in Massachusetts.

Hot Springs. — Beautifully situated in the picturesque
valley of the Green River, on the western slope of the
Cascade Mountains 1,531 feet above the level of the sea,
on the main line of the Northern Pacific Railway, in King
County, sixty miles from the cities of Seattle and Tacoma.
Here are located the celebrated hot springs. Trails lead up
the hot springs mountain, so that the source of the springs
can be visited if desired.

The following towns — Buckley to Auburn — are on the old
line. The through trains now run via the " Palmer cut-off "
from Palmer Junction to Auburn :

Buckley. — Population 1,500. The Natches Pass Rail-
road, a logging road, runs east eight miles into the moun-
tains from here : also another logging road, four miles
long, called the Buckley Lumber Co. Railroad. The town
has lumber, planing and shingle mills. Hops and lumber
are the principal shipments.

Wilkeson. — Population 700. The place has large coke
ovens, coal mines, and saw mills. Coal mining is the prin-
cipal industry.

Carbonado. — Population 2,500. Is on the Carbon River.
The principal business interest is coal mining, from a mine
yielding 1,200 tons daily. The product and shipment is coal;
copper, silver, and coal mines are at Fairfax.

Crocker. — This is the junction point for the branch line
running to Douty, five miles distant, at which point are lo-
cated the Carbon Hill Coal Mines.

Orting. — Population 1,000. The Orting branch runs
from this point to the lumbering regions of the Muck and
Sucotash valleys. The city has saw and shingle mills, a
creamery, and the Washington Soldiers' Home, one and a
quarter miles south.

Meeker. — This is the junction point of the line to Seattle.

Auburn. — Population 600. Situated midway between
Tacoma and Seattle, in the midst of a fine agricultural and

WASHINGTON

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

lumber district. Auburn offers exceptional advantages to
either the merchant or farmer.

Kent. — Population 1,300. A rich agricultural country
surrounds this town, which is supplied with saw, shingle,
and planing mill, harness shop, feed mill, condensed milk
factory, creamery, cheese factory, evaporating factories,
laundry, furnace factory, canning factory, and is in the
center of a fine hop growing country.

Seattle. — Population 80,671. Seattle, named after an In-
dian, is situated on the east side of Puget Sound, in the
geographical center of the " Sound Country," as it is called.

LOGGING IN WASHINGTON.

It has a magnificent harbor, perfectly protected from
storms, and accessible to the largest vessels at all times and
at all stages of tide.

Seattle is lighted principally by electricity. The power
for this, and the operation of the street railways, comes
from Snoqualmie Falls, twenty-five miles distant. This is
a water fall 268 feet high, capable of generating 100,000
horse power. The .public schools of Seattle rank among
the very best in the country. The enrollment of pupils
exceeds 12,500, there are 254 teachers employed, and the
expenditure exceeds $250,000 per annum.

The Puget Sound Navy Yard is just across the Sound
from Seattle, and its supplies are purchased here. The city

WASHINGTON

has the only dry clock on the Pacific Coast large enough to
dock a battleship, and here steady employment is given to
about 600 mechanics.

Seattle is the center of the coal mining district of Wash-
ington. Some of the mines are within a few miles of the

SNOQUALMIE DAM AND POWER STATION.

city, and all of them are within 100 miles. Seattle is the
headquarters and base of supplies of the Puget Sound,
Alaska, and Fraser River salmon fisheries. The foreign
and coastwise trade of Seattle is constantly growing and
extending, and is a great factor in her commercial pros-
5

68 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

perity. Fishing is extensively carried on — both sahiion for
canning and fresh fish, the latter consisting of halibut, cod,
and salmon, for shipment east by rail as far as the Atlantic
seaboard cities. The local products shipped by vessel and
car are coal, lumber, wheat, ffour, beer, lime, spars,
shingles, hops, hay, oats, barley, hides, vegetables, fruits,
butter, cheese, wool, furs, skins, clams and oysters, fresh
and dried fish, cigars, boots and shoes, iron castings, ma-
chinery, crackers, candles, clothing, and many other articles
of manufacture.

Seattle is the county seat of King County, which is rich
in natural resources, embracing 60,000 acres of coal fields
within a radius of thirty-six miles; iron in abundant quan-
tities, and fertile and extensive valleys of wonderfully pro-
ductive soil, well adapted for raising hops, hay, potatoes,

OLYMPIC MOUNTAINS, FROM SEATTLE.

all vegetables, fruits and berries, and especially adapted for
dairying, as the climatic conditions permit of stock running
out all the year round and grasses to grow at all seasons.
The surface of the country is covered with fine forests
of fir, cedar, spruce, and hardwood timber, and logging and
lumbering are among the staple industries of western
Washington, and are extensively carried on in the vicinity
of Seattle. It is the center of the great lumber trade of the
state, which includes the cut annually of 1,500,000,000 feet
of lumber, and 5,000,000,000 shingles. The King County
cut includes one-seventh of that of the state. Exports from
Seattle include cargoes for many vessels to foreign coun-
tries and thousands of carloads to markets in the eastern
states.

Seattle has a mild and equable climate. The records of
the United States Weather Bureau show that the highest

WASHINGTON

temperature ever recorded was 94 degrees for one day only,
in 1892. The temperature seldom exceeds 85 degrees, and
has only gone as low as 12 degrees above zero three times
in ten years. The temperature always drops as low as
62 degrees during the night, even in the warmest weather.
The average rainfall for ten years has been 36.46 inches per
year. There is very little snowfall. The average velocity
of the wind is five and a half miles an hour, and the highest
velocity ever observed was forty-two miles.
. The following towns — Snohomish to Puyallup — are on
branch lines north of Seattle :

THIRD AVENUE, SEATTLE, WASH.

Snohomish. — Population 3,000. There is a large agricul-
tural district tributary to this point, which, in addition to
the timber traffic, makes Snohomish quite an important
place. The city is located thirty-eight miles north of Se-
attle, at the head of navigation on the Snohomish River.
The industries consist of six shingle mills and one logging
camp.

Everett. — Population 12,000. Everett is a rapidly grow-
ing city, located on Port Gardner, an inlet of Puget Sound.
The Snohomish River empties into the Sound on the north
through a three fork delta, all of which are navigable,

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

particularly for vessels of light draught. This affords ex-
ceptional fresh and salt water harbor facilities, the fresh
water harbor now being extended by government dredge
work. The city maintains street railway, electric light, and
water systems, and has a large number of mercantile es-
tablishments of all kinds. The paper mill and smelter lo-
cated here are the largest of their kind on the coast. Quite
a number of other manufacturing industries have under
consideration the matter of locating here.

Arlington. — Population 1,500. A large district of choice,
agricultural lands is tributary to this city, which is situ-

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\ PUGET SOUND LUMBER MILL.

ated on the Stillaguamish River, sixty miles north of Se-
attle. Its industries consist of four shingle mills.

Woolley. — Population 1,300. Located eighty-six miles
north of Seattle on the Skagit River. The town's industries
consist of shingle and saw mills, a fruit cannery and a
b'"ick yard.

Issaquah. — Population 1,500. Situated forty-two miles
east of Seattle. The industries comprise coal mines.

Snoqualmie. — Population 300. Here is where the electri-
city is generated that supplies a good portion of the de-
mands of Seattle, Tacoma, and Everett. The place has a
shingle mill, saw mill, and a log camp.

WASHINGTON 71

Puyallup. — Population 2,500. For the past ten years
more hops have been raised and marketed here than in any
other locahty in the world. In the fall of the year this
product is shipped to New York and European markets in
train-load lots. The city is located on the Puyallup River,
in the heart of the famous Puyallup Valley. It has a fine
water system, box factories, hop and hay press, and a hop
spray factory. Fruit and vegetables are the principal farm
products, 20,000 cases of berries being raised and marketed
here yearly. The soil is a rich, sandy, loam, especially
adapted to the raising of vegetables, etc.

Tacoma. — Population 55,000. The name of this city
comes from the Indian word, " Ta-ho-ma," of which there

MOONLIGHT ON PUGET SOUND.

seems to be a variety of meanings, among them being
" nourishing breast," and " great spirit who dwells on the
mountains."

Tacoma is the county seat of Pierce County, and has de-
veloped from a village of 720 in 1880 to its present size.
It is situated at the head of Commencement Bay, at the
extreme southeast end of Puget Sound, is built on a bluff
180 feet above tide water, and commands a view of the vast
Olympic and Cascade ranges of mountains, and Mount
Rainier.

Along the water front are splendid wharves and wheat ware-
houses with a capacity of 7,000,000 bushels. Tacoma
equals any city on the Pacific Coast in the number and ex-

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

tent of its manufacturing enterprises. Besides its great
saw mills, flour mills, and wood-working factories, which
send their products to Europe, South and Central America,
India, Australia, China and Japan, there are shingle mills
which send their product to Eastern markets ; the most
complete and best equipped packing house on the Pacific
Coast ; sash and door factories, foundries and machine
shops, planing mills, furniture, lounge, and mattress facto-
ries, match factory, casket factory, woolen mill, soap works.

PUYALLUP INDIAN RESER\ MIO\'

boiler works, box factory, broom factory, tile and terra cotta
works, brick yards, breweries, ice factories, cracker, candy
and starch factories, shipyards, garment and overall fac-
tory, preserve factory, and a large smelter with a capacity
of reducing 650 tons of ore per day, are among the indus-
tries represented in Tacoma and which are in constant
operation. \Vater, gas, and electric light works are also
in operation.

The famous Puyallup and WHiite River valleys lie tribu-
tary to Tacoma. These valleys produce the finest hops

WASHINGTON

7.3

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

in the world and yield from i,8oo to 3,000 pounds per acre.
The country around Tacoma is adapted to the raising of
fruits, hay, hops and vegetables.

The harbor at Tacoma is one of the best in the world.
Ample accommodations for deep sea vessels are provided,
and new buoys have been anchored convenient to the
warehouses.

The waters of Puget Sound teem with ninety-five vari-
eties of food fish, the capture of which gives employment
to 7,000 men, who market most of their catch here to be
shipped in refrigerator cars to eastern markets. There is

A PART OF TACOMa's WATER FRONT.

a capital of $5,000,000 invested. Sport with rod and line in
Commencement Bay during the great silver salmon run in
October and November has a charm and excitement en-
tirely its own. The fish are gamey and afford the excite-
ment an angler loves so well. The climate is unsurpassed.
Tacoma, owing to its geographical position and commer-
cial enterprise, has established itself as one of the principal
gateways to the northern territory of Alaska which is
attracting so much attention on acount of the rich gold
fields of the Yukon, as well as those of the Copper River
and Cook's Inlet districts. The Tacoma Eastern Railway
is steadily building up toward Mount Rainier through a
fine timber and farming country.

WASHINGTON

Mount Rainier. — This mountain was discovered by
Capt. George Vancouver, of the British navy, in 1792, and
was named by him for his friend. Rear Admiral Rainier.
The Indian name for this peak is Ta-ho-ma. As between
the names Rainier and Tahoma, or Tacoma, the United States
Board on Geographic Names, a board appointed to de-
cide all such questions for the government, gave preference
to Rainier as the name to be used on the official maps.

Rainier is the highest of the Cascade peaks, being, ac-
cording to the latest determination — that of the United
States Geological Survey — 14,526 feet above sea level.

TRANS-PACIFIC STEAMER,

It is not unlike Mount Adams in general contour, but is
much nearer a conical shape. It is completely enameled with
snow and is the center of a profound system of glaciers,
some of them four or five miles in length. The northern
side is very precipitous and has never been scaled. The
eastern, western, and southern sides have been climbed
many times. The ascent is long but not specially danger-
ous. There are two large craters at the highest peak,
nearly filled with ice and snow. The loftiest point is a
beautiful snow and ice dome between the craters. Steam
constantly issues from the latter, and a system of cave-like
openings extend downward from the summit. Many tour-
ists and Pacific Coast people climb the mountain each

76 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

year. Longmire's Springs, at the base of the peak on tlie
south side, is easily reached from Tacoma and Seattle.
From there a good trail ascends the Nisqually and Paradise
rivers to Paradise Park, on the southern slopes of the
mountain, where a tent hotel is usually maintained.

If one does not care to climb Rainier, no grander outing
can be conceived than a few days spent in Paradise Park
among the glaciers, ice clifTs, flowers, the park spots, and
the glorious mountains. Arrangements for the trip can be
made at either Seattle or Tacoma. Agents of the Northern
Pacific Railway will aid tourists in every way possible in
planning for this excursion.

South Tacoma. — Population 1,500. The new car shops
of the Northern Pacific Railwa}- are located here.

Lakeview. — Population 200. A junction point for the
line to Olympia and Grays Harbor country. The town has
rolling, planing, and feed mills.

Tenino. — Population 400. This is the junction , with the
Port Townsend Southern Railroad, and has saw mills
and large stone quarries. The surrounding country is hilly,
with dense forests.

Olympia. — Population 4,300. Olympia is the capital of
Washington and the county seat of Thurston County, and
is located at the head of Puget Sound. The city has water
works, electric and street railway plants, local and long
distance telephone system, United States land and sur-
veyor-general s offices, hotels, a national bank, daily and
weekly newspapers, state capitol building, opera house,
churches, a school and colleges, a hospital, saw mills, sash
and door factory, wood water pipe factor}^ and stores. The
products are fruit, vegetables, hay, etc., and the shipments
are lumber, shingles, ice, beer, wood water pipe, clams,
oysters, and fish. Shipments of the native oysters and
clams exceed any other point on the Pacific Coast.

Centralia. — Population 3,500. The branch line of the
Northern Pacific to Montesano on Grays Harbor connects
with the main line at this point, by which passengers from
the east go to Grays Harbor. The citj^ is one mile from
the Chehalis River, and has saw and shingle mills. Lum-
bering and farming are the principal industries, while fruit
and berry growing is extensvely carried on. A mountain-
ous, timlDered country surrounds the city.

Mount St. Helens. — Not long after Mount Rainier is

WASHINGTON

DISTANT VIEW OF ,MT. RAINIER.

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

lost sight of another mighty mass of snow, terminating
in a sharp point, appears. This is Mount St. Helens, 9,750
feet high and called by the aborigines " Lah-me-lat-cla " —
fire mountain. Another Indian name is " Seuq." It is also
an extinct volcano and was named by Vancouver in 1792.
St. Helens has been an active volcano more recently,
perhaps, than any of the other northwestern mountains,
unless possibly Mount Baker. It seems to have been in
eruption many times between 1831-1850. Like all these

MT. ST. HELENS, FROM PORTLAND.

peaks, it is not difficult of ascent on the south side, and it
is an intensely interesting peak to explore. Volcanic
bombs and large quantities of ashes and cinders are found.
In the first half of last century St. Helens seems to have
been the most frequently mentioned mountain of the Cas-
cades.

Chehalis. — Population 3,500. This is the junction for
South Bend, on Willapa Harbor. The city is located on
the Chehalis River, near the mouth of Newaukum River,
and is the county seat of Lewis County. It aft'ords a flour-
ing mill, shingle mills, saw mills, furniture factory, and

OREGON 79

electric lights and water works. The shipments are hops,
flour, stock, lumber, shingles, and fish.

Winlock. — Population 1,500. This is a diverging point
for the Toutle River and St. Helens gold mines, distant
thirty miles. The town is located on Olequa Creek, and
has saw mills, sash and door factory, creameries, and pot-
tery works. Cowlitz Prairie, containing some of the finest
farming land in Washington, is only five miles distant. The
shipments from here are lumber, hay, butter, potatoes
and grain.

Castle !Kock. — Population 1,800. Another diverging point
for the St. Helens mining district. The city has shingle
mills, and saw mills. Logging, farming and the raising of
fruits and hops are the leading industries. Coal mining is
also carried on near this place.

Kelso. — Population 1,000. Situated at the confluence of
the Cowman and Cowlitz rivers, both logging streams,
this is fast coming into notice as an enterprising town.

Kalama. — Population 1,250. This is the county seat of
Cowlitz County, and is situated on the Columbia River,
northwest of Portland. The town is supplied with saw
and shingle mills. Fishing is the principal industry, sal-
mon and sturgeon being caught in great quantities. This
place has the largest sturgeon packing concern on the
Pacific Coast. It has water power and electric lights, and
a good harbor.

OREGON.

Goble. — Population 200. Coble is the junction point
with the Astoria & Columbia River Railroad from Portland
to Astoria.

From Northern Pacific trains, near the junction of the
Columbia and Willamette rivers, on a clear day one will
see movmts Rainier, St. Helens, Adams, Hood, and Jef-
ferson, probably the finest sight of the sort in America.
Hood is really the most beautiful of these, and from the
town of Hood River, on the Columbia River, one may
easily visit the mountain. Mount Hood is 11,225 ^^^t high.

Portland. — Population 125,000. Most picturesquely situ-
ated on the banks of the Willamette River, Portland is a
beautiful and compact city. Portland homes and their sur-

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

rounding grounds are comfortable and tasteful, and many
of them have cost upwards of $50,000.

The city slopes west from the river to a range of hills
from whose sides and summits may be had a magnificent
view of city, valley, river, and mountain range, with five
eternal snow-peaks standing out in bold relief and varying

MT. HOOD.

in height from 9,000 to 15,000 feet above the level of the
sea.

Portland has many miles of shade trees along the streets,
and most of its residents take pride in keeping up beautiful
grounds and gardens. The city's street car system extends
to Oregon City, twelve miles up the river; to St. Johns,
seven miles down the river, and to Vancouver, eight miles
away, and across the Columbia River. The total street car
system, both electric and steam, aggregate 112^/4 miles.

OREGON

82 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Portland is blessed with excellent transportation facilities,
being connected with the north, south, and east by daily
trains over four great railway systems, and having many
local trains running into the surrounding tributary regions.
There are daily trains to Astoria, also steamboats, many of
the latter plying on the river, bringing trade of all kinds to
the city, and covering 1,500 miles of inland transportation.

A line of ocean steamers connect Portland with San
Francisco, and regular steamers ply between Portland and
Japan, China, and Hawaii. Wheat ships load at Portland
wharves and carry the grain- of the Pacific Northwest to
the markets of the world. Portland is not only the princi-
pal wheat-shipping port of the Pacific Northwest, but one
of the great shipping ports of the United States. The pros-
pect of a large trade with the Pacific Islands and Asia
brightens Portland's outlook. The city will have its share
of that trade and it will be carried by lines of steamers
plying direct. A few things remain to be done to bring
Portland into touch with its field and accommodate its
growing commerce. One of these is a forty-foot channel
at the mouth of the Columbia River, and a twenty-foot
channel between Portland and the sea. The Columbia
channel has been approved by the chief of engineers, is
well understood by Congress, and it is a matter of a short
time when contracts will be awarded and the work begun.

The lumbering interests of Portland are very important.
The largest cargo of lumber ever loaded in the world was
carried from Portland on the steamer Glenlochy, and meas-
ured 3,077,085 feet. It went to Vladivostock, Siberia.
There are large areas of mining, lumbering, agricultural,
wool-producing and stock-raising country tributary to
Portland, and their trade is steadily increasing.

The distance from Portland to the sea is no miles. The
Willamette River flows into the Columbia twelve miles
below Portland, and the largest ships come to the city's
wharves. The falls of the Willamette River, at Oregon
City, twelve miles south of Portland, have an energy of
145,000 horse power and transmit by wire to Portland elec-
trical power to run the street cars, light the city, and fur-
nish force for manufacturing purposes.

The Great Northwest.

PART II.

INTRODUCTION.

The Pacific Northwest, or the Northwest of to-day, em-
braces that portion of the United States, British Columbia
and Alaska lying west of the barrier of the Rocky Mountains
and bordering- on the Pacific Ocean north of the 42d parallel
of latitude, or the dividing line between California and
Oregon, Nevada and Idaho. It therefore includes the west-
ern portion of Montana, the states of Idaho, Washington and
Oregon, the western part of British Columbia, and, we may
say, commercial Alaska.

It will be, however, the purpose of this book to treat the
entire state of IMontana as an integral part, with short mat-
ter on those states which were once a part of the Northwest
when emigrants from Ohio and Indiana to Illinois looked
upon Wisconsin and Minnesota, to say nothing of the Dako-
tas, as a part of the inaccessible and great unknown.

There is little use in giving figures to show the extent of
this vast territory, when the Okanogan plains and upper
Columbia River and Snake River basins alone, or, more
properly speaking, that portion of the Northwest Iving in
the United States between the Cascade and Rocky Mountain
ranges, equals the area of all the New England States, with
New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey and Maryland added.
The term "Inland Empire," as applied to this region, is not
a misnomer.

It is said the Great Northwest, of all the inhabitable re-
gions of the globe, is the most productive and the least set-
tled. It is not fitting here to enumerate what, as a whole,
it possesses, but leave that to be treated with the different
sections, for it would perhaps be more appropriate to in-
quire what it does not possess in abundance necessary to the
founding of a nation of the first class, commercially and
otherwise.

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

EARLY HISTORY.

The country between the Mississippi River and the
Rocky Mountains, and the country known as the
Oregon Territory, lying between the Rocky Mountains
and the sea, designated as a "wikl and magnificent region,
unvisited before by white men, with its barbarous tribes,
their character and habits, and abounding in herds
of buffalo, deer and antelope, outnumbering the human
tenants of the land," has an interesting marine as well
as land histor}'. The western shores of North America
were visited at an early day by Spanish navigators soon
after the discovery of the new continent had become an estab-
lished fact. Magellan passed through the straits which bear
his name; Balboa crossed the Isthmus of Darien in 1513;
Pizarro concjuered Peru and other parts of South American
territory, while Cortez took possession of Mexico. From
the latter country many expeditions, with varying success,
were fitted out and sent to north Pacific waters for the com-
bined purpose of tracing the coast line, finding a way to
India, discovering a navigable passage between the Atlantic
and Pacific oceans, and last, but not least, of repeating the
rapacious plunderings of Pizarro and Cortez.

Ulloa, in 1539, followed the coast of Lower California to
the 30° of latitude; in 1542 Cabrillo and Ferelo, after dis-
covering San Diego Bay, advanced as far north as the 44°
on the Oregon coast. In 1579 Sir Francis Drake
landed on the shores of California at what is now supposed
to be San Francisco Bay, but it is still a disputed question
whether he ever went farther north. In 1592 Juan de Fuca,
while in the employ of the Spanish Viceroy of Mexico, en-
tered the strait noAV bearing his name, which leads to the
Gulf of Georgia and Puget Sound. In 1602 Sebastien Vis-
caino, after attempting to establish colonies in California,
sailed as far north as Cape Blanco. In 1616 two Dutch naviga-
tors sailed around Cape Horn, and early in the following cen-
tury the Spanish Jesuits located missions in California. Not
until 1774 was any exploration of the coast of the Northwest

EARLY HISTORY

4 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

made, when another Mexican expedition, u^.der Juan Perez,
sailed north as far as the 54°, near the mouth of the
Skeena River, and not far below the present boundary of
Alaska. Again, in 1775, a Mexican expedition under Heceta
and Quadra proceeded as far north as the Strait of Juan de
Fuca, named Cape San Roque and charted an opening,
which afterward proved to be the mouth of the Columbia
River. Again sailing north a part of the expedition reached
the 58°, a point north of the present site of Sitka.

It is supposed that the Chinese and the Japanese, in their
junks, had discovered the north Pacific coast of America
long before white men saw it, and there is little doubt that
the Indians who. inhabit this coast are Mongoloids, having
emigrated across Bering Strait from Asia. There is much
evidence in the way of old junk, old coins, racial likeness,
etc., to warrant the belief that communication had been es-
tablished.

In 1778 Capt. James Cook, an English navigator, made
various landings from the Oregon coast northward, finally
passing through Bering Strait, where he traced the Arctic
coast both east and west along the American and Asiatic
shores. He named Cape Foulweather, also Cape Flattery, at
the southern point of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. He discov-
ered and named Prince William Sound and Cook's Inlet and
visited Unalaska, along the Alaskan coast. His vessels spent
two years in north Pacific waters, prosecuting the fur trade,
finally disposing of their cargoes at Canton. The publishing
of the journals of this expedition in England was the first
spur to international trading in furs. In consequence many
companies were formed, eventually causing great rivalry.

James Hanna came to Nootka, on Vancouver Island,
from England in 1785, and again in 1786, and established
trade with the natives. Then came Portlock and Dixon and
traders from Bombav, Calcutta, and other foreign ports,
when a general knowledge of the country was obtained.

The French, in 1790, sent out the Peyronne, which touched
the coast at manv places between Monterey, Cal., and the
Alaska coast ofif Mount St. Elias. The Spanish government
was again stimulated to action, and thus the one great in-
centive, the barter of junk, knives and gewgaws for furs,
was fairly launched.

The first voyages from the United States were those of the
ship Columbia and sloop Washington, Robert Gray and John

EARLY HISTORY

Kendrick, commanders. They reached Nootka Soimd, on
Vancouver Island, via Cape Horn, in 1788, and returned via
Cape Good Hope in 1790. The attempts of Capt. John
Meares, a Portuguese, to discover the opening of the Co-
hmibia, as laid down by the Mexican, Heceta, resulted in
failure on account of stormy weather, and he then renamed
Cape San Roque Cape Disappointment, and the mouth of
the now famous river Deception Bay, so it was left finally
to Captain Gray, of Boston, in the Columbia, the flagship
of a squadron of seven vessels, to complete the discovery in
1 79 1 and give the river its name. During the same year

RELICS OF FORMER DAYS.

Capt. Vancouver, an Englishman, took over Nootka Sound,
on the island bearing his name, to the British government,
and made important explorations in the Strait of Juan de
Fuca and the Puget Sound region. He named the large
island on which Victoria is situated for himself, Mount
Baker and Puget Sound for his lieutenants, and Mount
Rainier for his friend, a British admiral ; he also named
many ports and islands, and, not to forget his sovereign,
the body of water which receives the Fraser River — the Gulf
of Georgia.

The Russians, through '^^itus Bering, a Dane, in 1778 dis-
covered the strait of that name and touched the shores of
America, having built a vessel at the mouth of the Kam-

6 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

chatka River, the rigging, cables, etc., having been dragged
2,000 miles on sleds overland. Later they extended their
trade to the Aleutian Islands, and in 1803 established a de-
pot and seat of government at Sitka. Although the Russians
made one or two voyages further south, their share in the
work of discovery was confined almost wholly to Alaska.

In 1766 the adventurous spirit of John Carver, of Con-
necticut, incited him to visit the Northwest, which he did,
going by way of Albany, N. Y., and the lakes, and then
overland gs far west as the Mississippi River. He first
learned from the Indian tribes that the four great rivers of
the continent were "the St. Lawrence, the Mississippi, the
River Bourbon (Red River of the North), and the Oregon,
or the River of the West (the Columbia)." His plan was
to follow the same route afterwards traveled by Lewis and
Clark, namely, the Missouri River to the Rocky Mountains,
thence crossing over to the Columbia waters and passing
down to the Pacific Ocean.

The trade in furs caused the organization of several fur
companies in Great Britain and America from time to time,
among them being the Hudson's Bay Company, of which Sir
Alexander McKenzie was a member. In 1789 McKenzie
made his way by Slave Lake and the McKenzie River to the
Arctic Ocean, and in 1792 he ascended the rapid Peace River
to the Rocky Mountains, crossed over to the Fraser River,
and could easily have reached the Pacific Ocean, but was dis-
suaded from doing so by the Indians, who told him that this
river held its course a long way to the south. This caused
him to believe that it was the Oregon (Columbia). He then
ascended the Fraser River, turned west to the Salmon River,
and reached the Pacific Ocean in British Columbia, near the
52° of latitude. McKenzie advised his government of his
belief in this matter, and as this was the first trip overland
to the Pacific, it became the initial factor in the long and bit-
ter territorial dispute, resulting in the treaty of 1845, finally
making the 49th parallel the boundary line, as it, as near as
possible, splits the waters of these two great rivers.

Lewis and Clark Expedition. — In 1803 President Jef-
ferson sent a confidential message to Congress, proposing
that a partv be despatched to the Northwest to trace the
Missouri River to its source, cross the Rocky Mountains,
and proceed to the Pacific Ocean. This was approved and
$2,500 was appropriated. Capt. Merriweather Lewis was.

EARLY HISTORY

upon his own application, made leader of the expedition, and
Capt. James Clark was afterwards associated with him.
During this 3'ear was completed the Louisiana purchase,
which gave to the United States all the territory in the
Northwest east of the main divide of the Rocky Mountains.

This now famous expedition
left St. Louis in May, 1804,
and proceeded up the Rlissouri
River by boats, making easy
stages, stopping to confer with
the Indians and make notes of
the adjacent country. Xovem-
ber found the party 1,600 miles
up the river and by the 20th
of that month they had built
huts in the timber on the river
bank, which they called Fort
Mandan. Their location was
not far from the present site
of Mandan, N. D. The winter
was spent in receiving the
heads of the different tribes, jefferson,

entertaining them, holding councils, giving and receiving
presents, always advising peace between the tribes, which
was very difficult to maintain. Game being plentiful, some
hunting was done to maintain the food supply, which, with
the corn received from the Indians, sufficed to carry them
through the winter.

The barge which had previously carried the stores was
sent down the river, accompanied by several Indians, while
the party, which now consisted of thirty-two persons, on
April 7, 1805, forged ahead on the long and unknown journey.
Chaboneau, one of the interpreters, was accompanied by his
wife, Sac-a-ja-we-a, with her babe. She was a member of
the Shoshone band of Snake Indians whose country the ex-
pedition expected to pass through, and it was thought she
might be of considerable assistance, as she was eventually.
She was the only woman of the party and made the entire trip
to the Pacific Ocean and return, serving alternately as inter-
preter and helper. On April 26 camp was made at the junction
of the Yellowstone and Missouri rivers, which is now very
nearlv on the boundary line between the states of North
Dakota and Montana. The journal says, according to Indian

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

information, the \ellowstone " runs first through a moun-
tainous country, but which in many parts is fertile and well
timbered; it then waters a rich and delig;htful land, broken
into valleys and meadows, and well supplied with wood and
water, till it reaches near the Missouri." Such is the early

description of the valley of
that clear running stream,
heading in the National
Park of the same name,
born of never-f ailing
snows, tumbling from dizzy
heights to the wonderful
canyon below, at last
emerging from its moun-
tain barriers and affording
a transcontinental railroad
pathway with si'-es for nu-
merous prosperous cities.

Speaking of die country
along the Missouri ni^/er,
the journal says, "then a
beautiful low plain com-
mences and, widening as
NAPOLEON. the rivers recede extends

along west between them."
Other plains are spoken of, with high ground and timber,
also the advantages of a trading post, which no doubt brought
about the establishment of Fort Buford, now a thriving city
on the Great Northern. At this point in the journal it is men-
tioned that "the game was in such plenty that we killed only
what was necessary for our subsistence. . . We are sur-

rounded with deer, elk, buffalo, antelope and their companions,
the wolves. . . Two savage white bears, the terror of

the Indians, were killed." Porcupine River, near the present
station of Kintyre, was named. The game was so plentiful
and extremely gentle that "the male buffalo will scarcely give
way to us, and as wc approach will merely look at us for a
moment as something new and then quietly resume their feed-
ing." And to think that less than a century leaves but a few
of these noble animals, in pens and exhibition places, to be
looked upon as a relic of the past — a shameless destruction of
one of the wisest provisions of nature !

EARLY HISTORY

On May 5 the expedition reached the mouth of Milk River
(now a railway station of the same name) along the valley
of which the railroad continues its way towards the west. The
journal gives a good idea of the river, which rises in the Rocky
Mountains in Northwestern Mon-
tana, runs into the Northwest Ter-
ritories, later returns to the land of
its birth and for 200 miles creates
the great stock regions along the
international line. Still following
the Missouri, which now comes
from the southwest, the
journal says "the country
like that of yesterday is
beautiful in the extreme."
Again, "the country con-
tinues level, rich and beau-
tiful," again the elk and
deer become "so gentle that
the men are obliged to drive
them out of the way with
sticks and stones."

On May 20 they reached
the mouth of the Musselshell River. In speaking of the
country again the journal says, "a waving valley, extending
for a great distance to the northward with a fertile soil which,
though without wood, produces a fine turf of low grass."
Here the Missouri conies from the west, which course the
party mainly took for the next 200 miles, skirting the north
side of Fergus County, Mont.

On May 26 Captain Lewis ascended some hills and for the
first time obtained a view of the Rocky Mountains, "The ob-
ject of all our hopes and reward of all our ambition." He
probably saw what are now known as the Big Snowy Range
and the Belt Mountains, south and east of Lewiston. At
the mouth of the Marias, near Fort Benton, so long the
head of navigation of the Missouri in early days, some time
was consumed in determining the true Missouri. With much
doubt, after cacheing a boat and a part of the stores, they
proceeded. In referring to the Falls of the Missouri', now
the site of a city, with a great smelter and other manu-
factories, known as Great Falls, Captain Lewis says that on

>/-

CAIT, MbKKlWIiA'l HER LhWIS.

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

the 13th they came to a beautiful plain where the buffalo
were in greater numbers than they had ever seen before,
and finding that the river bore considerably to the south and
fearful of passing the falls, being on foot, he changed his

course to the south. Spray in the
air, and the increasing noise di-
rected him, and after traveling
seven miles the scene burst upon
his vision. Down the hills he hur-
ried with impatience and seating
himself on some rocks under the
center of the falls, enjoyed the
spectacle "which since the Creation
had been lavishing its

magnificence upon the
desert unknown to civili-
zation." Until July 15,
a period of thirty-two
days, they occupied them-
selves in exploring, cache-
ing stores for future
needs, portaging the falls,
and building newer and
cAi'T, JAMES CLARK. llghtcr boats for more

rapid travel.
From here on the river was tortuous, the canyon walls so
abrupt at times as to afford no trail on the banks. At the
three forks of the river, in what is now Gallatin County, it
was decided to take the southeasterly fork, which thev named
Jeft'erson River, after President Jefferson, the projector of
the enterprise. On this river the Indian woman, Sac-a-ja-
we-a, said she had been captured from her people, the Snake
Indians, when a child. After much exploring, several acci-
dents and considerable fatigue, the party reached the source
of this river, the journal referring to it as "the remotest wa-
ter of the Missouri," "which had never before been seen by
civilized man . and as we sat clown by the brink of

that little rivulet which yielded its distant and modest tribute
to the parent ocean, we felt ourselves rewarded for all our
labors and all our difficulties."

They stood at the top of the great divide of the Rocky
Mountains, now in Beaver Head County, Mont., knowing
nothing of the great geyser basin of the Yellowstone Park, in

EARLY HISTORY

UMATILLA SQUAW, PE-TOW'-VA.

She saw Lewis and Clark in 1805. Died in 1902, aged 112 years.
Lee Moorhouse, Am. Photo. Pendleton, Ore.

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Wyoming', which was feeding the middle fork, named by
them Madison River. They "followed a descent much steeper
than that on the eastern side, and at the distance of three
quarters of a mile reached a handsoine, bold creek of cold,
clear water, running to the westward, and stopped to taste,
for the first time, tlie waters of the Columbia." They were
in what is now Lemhi County, Idaho, and were descending
to the Lemhi River, a branch of the Salmon, which is a branch
of the Snake, that river being a direct and important member
of the Columbia. At a camp of the Shoshone Indians Cap-
tain Lewis, who had preceded the main party, was given a
piece of roasted salmon, which satisfied him that he was then
on Pacific waters. He returned with the Indians and horses
to assist in taking the luggage across the divide. ' Sac-a-je-
we-a at once recognized the chief as her brother, and "met
him with demonstrations of great joy."

Finding it impracticable
to descend the Salmon
River by boats, and
impossible to cross
the country by land
owing to deep riv-
ers canyons and
Uiciuntauis, t h e
part\ rccrossed

the R o c k }•
Mountai n s to
the coast and
northeast into the
southern end of
the Bitter Root
Valley, passed

OLD LEWIS AND CL.^R^

TRAIL AT LOLO NATIONAL SPRINGS.

EARLY HISTORY

down the valley to "Travelers' Rest" at the mouth of Lolo
Creek, then up that creek to the summit and over the Bitter
Root Mountains again to the head of the Koos-koos-kee, or
Clearwater River in Idaho, and thence down to the Snake
River, where the Nez Perces Indians gave them the first
description of the Falls of the Columbia. The journal reads,
September 22 : "As we approached the village most of the
women fled with their children to the neighboring woods.
. . The plains were now covered with Indians, who had

CAPTAIN CLARK AND HIS MEN SHOOTING BEARS.

From an old print.

come to see the whites and the strange things they had
brought with them. Chief Twisted Hair drew a chart

of the river on a white elk skin, according to which the Koos-
koos-kee (Clearwater) forks was a few miles from this place;
two days' journey to the south was another and larger fork.
. . Five days' journey lower down was a large river from
the northwest, and from the mouth of this river (the con-
fluence of the Snake and the Columbia), to the falls was a
five days' journey." At last the problem, after many diffi-
culties and privations, had been solved by the friendly Nez
Perces, or "pierced nose" tribe, in the valley of the Clear-
water River. This tribe in later years made a gallant fight
against the advancement of the white people whom Lewis

14 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

and Clark represented, under the greatest of all Indian gen-
erals, Chief Joseph.

The horses procured of the Shoshones were left for use
on the return tri]), canoes were made from the pine timber
in the valley, and on October 7 the journey was resumed
b}' water, passing the present sites of the prosperous towns
of Lewiston, in Idaho, and Clarkston, in Washington, where
the Clearwater and the Snake rivers join, the latter now
being spanned by a modern steel bridge. The trip to tide-
water was made, accompanied by hordes of Indians, all curi-
ous to see the white men. Fort Clatsop, near the present
site of Astoria, at the mouth of the Columbia River, was
built, and the winter spent by the party on rather short ra-
tions.

Certificates of kindness, etc. were distributed to the Indian
chiefs, and the following notice was .posted in the fort and
given to the natives :

"The object of this is, that through the medium of some civilized
person who may see the same, it may be made known to the world
that the party, consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto
annexed, and who were sent out by the government of the United
States to explore the interior of the continent of North America,
did cross the same by way of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, to
the discharge of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, where they arrived
on the 14th day of No\ember, 1805, and departed the 23rd day of
March, 1S06, on their return to the United States by the same route
by which they came out."

This was a strong factor in our claim made at the set-
tlement of the boundary dispute between England and the
United States, later inaking it possible for this vast north-
west country which we are now treating, to be exploited and
settled b}' the American people.

Working their way gradually up the Columbia, giving med-
ical aid and council to the Walla Walla Indians and neigh-
boring tribes, they again procured horses and, passing up
the Clearwater, reached the western base of the Bitter Root
Mountains. Here the party divided. The journal says: "We
now formed the following plan of operations : Captain
Lewis, with nine men, was to pursue the most direct route to
the Falls of the Missouri, where three of his party were to
be left, to prepare carriage for transporting the baggage
and canoes across the portage. With the retnaining six he
was to ascend Maria's (now IMarias) River, explore the coun-
trv and ascertain whether any branch of this river reached

EARLY HISTORY

16 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

as far north as latitude 50", after which he would descend
that river to its mouth. The rest of the party were to ac-
company Captain Clark to the head of the Jefferson River,
which Sergeant Ordway and nine men would descend with
canoes and other articles deposited there. Captain Clark's
party, which would then be reduced to ten, would proceed to
the Yellowstone at its nearest approach to the Three Forks
oi the Missouri, where Clark would build canoes, descend
that river with seven of his party and wait at its mouth till
the rest should join him. Sergeant Pryor, with the two oth-
ers, would take the horses by land and go to the British posts
on the Assinniboine with a letter to Mr. Henry to induce him
to endeavor to prevail on some of the Sioux chiefs to accom-
pany him to Washington."

Being now near the junction of the upper forks of the
middle forks of the Clearwater, in Idaho, the party separated,
and Captain Clark and party passed, as tlie Indians termed
it "up the river of the road to the buffaloes." It was a well-
beaten trail and used by the western Indians as a thorough-
fare between the Columbia plains, where salmon was the
main diet, and the Missouri plains, where the buffaloes were
innumerable and formed the chief sustenance. Pilgrimages
were made to the east by the Indians, but it seems few were
made to the west.

The plans were carried out, the Lewis party explored the
Blackfeet country, participating in a skirmish with that tribe,
one Indian being killed, joined the canoes at the mouth of
the Marias River, and passed down the Missouri. Captain
Clark proceeded to the Three Forks of the Missouri, thence
up the Gallatin and over to the Yellowstone, the route now
traversed by the Northern Pacific Railroad, probably reach-
ing that river at Livingston, Park Count_y.

Here boats were built and "through a beautiful landscape,
where buffaloes kept up a continued bellowing. . where

large herds of elk were lying on every point so gentle that they
might be approached within twenty paces," they floated down
this charming river to its mouth, the only alarm being lest
the buffalo "hovering about at night should tread on the
boats and split them to pieces." This was in the month of
July. What a scene to contemplate ! Is it any wonder that
Cooper and his contemporaries wrote such fascinating tales
of the prairie? Is it any wonder that the youth of the land
was fired with a desire for adventure? To-dav, instead of

EARLY HISTORY

buffalo, elk and big horn sheep, Montana's plains are covered
with myriads of domestic cattle and sheep, and the city of
Billings, situated on the banks of the Yellowstone, in 1902
became the largest wool market in the United States, while
Great Falls and Fort Benton were a close second. The great
cattle companies "roundup" and ship to market thousands of
head of cattle, fed on the self-same "buffalo grass" that nour-
ished the original occupants.

In boats, made of buffalo hides, the men who had been with
the horses floated down the river, and all sections joined at
the Missouri. At the Mandan settlement Chaboneau, the

* MANDAN VILLAGE AND " BULL ' BOATS.

French Canadian, and his wife Sac-a-ja-we-a and child, left
the party, though offered the opportunity of going to the
States. The journal says : "The man had been very ser-
viceable to us, and his wife was particularly useful among
the Shoshones ; indeed she had borne with a patience truly
admirable the fatigue of so long a route, encumbered with
the charge of an infant." The question of erecting a mon-
ument to her memory at the Three Forks of the Missouri, in
Montana, has been seriously agitated. Taking a Ricara chief
and his family with them, they descended the river as rap-
idly as the conditions would permit, reaching the Mississippi
and St. Louis on September 23, 1806, after two and a half

* From " Travels to the Interior of Xortli America in 1832-3-4." By Max Wied,
1843-

18 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

years' absence, in good health, with the loss of but one man,
and a single skirmish with the Blackfeet Indians. The length
of the route, gomg out by way of the Missouri to its head-
waters, was 3,096 miles, and from the divide to the Colum-
bia and down to the Pacific Ocean, 1,038 miles; on the return
3,545 miles were traveled, via Lolo Pass, making a total trip
of 7,679 miles, through an unexplored country. Thus in 1806
President Jefferson's far-seeing eve had accomplished more
than an invading army could have done, in practical results,
in the great struggle for the fur trade and territory in the
Great Northwest, and it is a source of pride that the empire
which has developed is, in the spirit of his declaration of pur-
pose, "a commercial empire beyond the Rocky Mountains,
peopled by free and independent Americans, linked with us
hy ties of blood and interest, and enjoying, like us, the rights
of self government."

To show the English point of view, a quotation is made
from the British Columbia Year Book :

"President Jefferson, with a prescience beyond the public men of
his day, saw in the great country west of the Mississippi, the des-
tiny of which was inore or less associated with the indefinite Hmits
of the Louisiana Territory, great possibilities, and he took a step
which he hoped would further the chances of the Republic. Jeffer-
son took a step which, though creditable to his enterprise, could not
be said to reflect credit on his methods."

The last sentence refers to giving out the object of the
expedition as one in the interest of science and obtaining pass-
ports from the English government.

An ample field was now open for new enterprises, and
various fur trading coinpanies were formed. Mr. John Jacob
Astor, of New York, had become wealthy in the eastern fur
trade, and in 1809 organized the American Eur Company,
the Northwestern Company, and the Southwestern Company.
The Missouri Eur Company was founded at St. Louis, and
established posts on the upper Missouri and west of the Rocky
Mountains on the Lewis River. The Indians at the mouth
of the Coluinbia River, Lewis and Clark found, knew only a
Mr. Haley as a trader, and the bay at Astoria was called
Haley's Bay.

In 1810 Mr. Astor organized the Pacific Eur Company, to
deal in furs and to establish posts on the Columbia River
and its branches, the head waters of the Missouri, and a
strong supply depot and fort was erected at the mouth of the

EARLY HISTORY

Columbia. The first ship, the Tonquin, landed the partners
(mostly Canadians) and men, April 12, 1811, at the mouth
of the Columbia, and they founded Astoria. This ship, while
on a trading expedition at Vancouver's Island, was later
blown up. The Northwest Fur Company, from Montreal,
then attempted to take possession of the country, but found
they were too late. The war of 1812 demoralized every-
thing, and the Astor forces gave up the posts on the Okan-
ogan and Spokane and repaired to Astoria, The Astor goods
were sold out to the Northwest Company at a sacrifice, a
British sloop of war came to anchor in the harbor and took

FORT MANDAN.

possession of the Astor fort and the country, hoisted the Brit-
ish colors and changed the name to Fort George. Peace was
declared in 181 5, but Astoria was not restored to the United
States rmtil 1818. The government failing to sanction Mr.
Astor's project, trade declined until after the settlement of
the boundary question in 1846; then there was neither post
nor trading post under the control of the United States
throughout the Columbia region. The Fludson's Bay
Company reigned supreme from the ocean to the Rocky
Mountains. Nathaniel Wyeth headed two expeditions to the
Pacific Coast and established posts in the Oregon territory,
but failed to hold the positions against this powerful com-

20 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

pany. Astoria stands to-day, however, the oldest American
city on the Pacific Coast.

In 1818, to settle the boundary line, it was proposed at the
treaty of Ghent, that a line be drawn from the Lake of the
Woods to the 49th parallel of latitude, and from the inter-
section westward to the Pacific. It was, however, agreed
upon in this treaty only to the Rocky Mountains. The ne-
gotiations were resumed in 1824, the 49th parallel being
again proposed by the United States, but the English wanted
the line to run down the Columbia River to the Pacific Ocean,
which was not accepted. In 1826 it again became a subject
of discussion, also again in 1827, when it was agreed that
the territory should be jointly occupied. The old slogan of
"54° 40' or fight" kept the fires alive until the matter was
settled permanently in 1846. To-day iron posts and a felled
strip of timber mark the international boundary from Blaine
eastward. The Astor post, the discovery of the Columbia by
Captain Gray, the Lewis and Clark expedition, aided by the
missionary Whitman at Walla Walla, made the basis of our
claim, but the Lewis and Clark expedition was the ruling evi-
dence.

The earliest emigration from the United States for the
purpose of settlement in what was known as the Oregon Ter-
ritory, that which was drained by the Oregon or Columbia
River, was made in 1832 in western Oregon.

The history of the Hudson's Bay Company is a very import-
ant chapter in the history of the entire Northwest. The dip-
lomatic history between Russia and England, while settling
the Alaskan boundary, at that time between England and
the United States with reference to the boundarv between
Canada and the United States, and the founding of the Louis-
iana territory and its sale to the L^nited States are interest-
ing and important.

There were three factors in the Northwest coast history.
First, the Spanish desire for conquest and plunder, which
later events showed availed but little : second, the search
for the Northwest Passage, or the fabled straits of Anian ;
third, the fur trading period, inaugurated by the Russians,
bv sea, and in the interior by the French trappers as early as
1842, all culminating in the settlement of this vast territory
and the building of trans-continental railways.

Topography and Climate. — The prominent physical fea-
ture of the central part of the United States is the great

TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE

^..u^n. iM..!,!-., i,wi->-'i^iBrA RIVER.

Cup\-nght, by Benj. A. Gifford, 'ihe Dalles, Ore.

22 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

basin between the Appalachian Alountains of the Atlantic sec-
tion and the Rocky Mountains of the Pacific section, of which
the Mississippi \'alley is the extreme depression, or trough.
The region between the Mississippi River and the Rocky
Mountains is known to geographers as the Great Plains, being
almost an entire prairie country and comparatively level. The
rise is very gradual over a direct line of more than a thou-
sand miles to the westward, and there are many places in
Minnesota and North and South Dakota where a furrow may
be turned for distances of from ten to twenty miles without
a break.

A broad upland in North Dakota, which extends into Can-
ada, is known as the Coteau of the Missouri. From this
point westward, through Montana to the Rocky IMountains,
the plains are comparatively level, interrupted only by oc-
casional non-continuous ranges of mountains, such as the
Little Rocky and the Bear's Paw mountains, in the northern
part of that state ; and the Highwood Belt, Snowy and Crazy
moimtains, in the central part, lying between the Missouri
and Yellowstone rivers. These mountains are covered with
timber in contrast to the surrounding prairie countr\-.

The country between Chicago, 111., and Helena, Mont.,
should be divided agriculturally into three sections : first, the
land of extensive cornfields, this being the country adjacent to
the Mississippi River, with a very slight altitude above the level
of the sea; next the wheat fields of Minnesota and the Da-
kotas, at an average elevation of from 1,000 to 1,500 feet,
with shorter summer seasons and bracing winters, and lastlv,
the extensive stock ranges of Montana, with a winter cli-
mate, including a colder and drjer atmosphere. These plains
are abruptly terminated on the west by the eastern, or Main
Divide of the Rocky Mountains, which rises from a base of
4,000 feet elevation to peaks of 10,00 to 14,000 feet in dif-
ferent parts of the range. Other ranges follow farther west,
each having a local name, such as the Bitter Root and Coeur
d'AIene mountains, which forni a very pronounced boundary
between the states of Idaho and Montana. Between these
ranges and the Main Divide lies a long, fertile, temperate
and romantic valley, and many smaller valleys lie between the
various spurs of the ranges, afifording homes to many people.

The Rocky Mountains are the great western barriers to
the central North American weather currents, therefore the
climatic eft'ects east of these mountains are based upon en-

TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE

24 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

tirely different causes from those on the western side. All
eastern Montana lies upon the Missouri Plateau, which is a
part of the same plains that are drained by the Saskatchewan
River of Canada, so that the currents of air coming down
from the north are carried over it and all the region between
it and the great lakes, where they are tempered by southern
influences. Medicine Hat, in Canada, usually records and no-
tifies us first of the coming cold wave. Then follows Fort
Assinniboine, at the foot of Bear's Paw Mountain, which
bears the name of being the coldest place in the United States.
Extremely cold weather is of short duration, but the general
temperature in winter is very much lower than that of the
territory lying west of the Rocky Mountains, or even of the
valleys between the Bitter Root Mountains and the Main
Divide. At times the mercury chills in the thermometer on
the high plains, and frequently drops to 20° below zero, but
the redeeming feature is that the air is so dry that zero
weather in Montana seems like thirty-two degrees above to
one accustomed to a humid atmosphere.

The great range of mountains, which, under a multiplicity
of names, stretches from Patagonia to Alaska and is really
the backbone of the continent, is full of interest in all its
ramifications. In Colorado the ranges cover the larger por-
tion of the state ; in northwestern Wyoming they spread out
again, forming a high basin known as the Yellowstone Park,
and there change their trend from nearly north and south
to a northwesterly direction. The Park is about sixty miles
square — a great basin having an elevation of from 6,000 to
12,000 feet, and is surrounded by lofty, snow-clad peaks. It
is a vast volcanic region, replete with natural wonders in
the way of numerous geysers, boiling springs, lakes and can-
yons, which are the very sources of the great water arteries
of the country ; the Colorado River flows south through its
gorge of wondrous depth and color, to the Gulf of Califor-
nia ; tlie Snake River wends its tortuous way to the Colum-
bia between basaltic clififs, and then in scenic splendor pushes
on to the sea ; and last, but not least, the Missouri, the long-
est river of the world, the pathway of Lewis and Clark, with
the Father of Waters, flowing amid corn and cotton and pop-
ulous cities, marks the Louisiana Purchase territorv to the
Gulf of Mexico. The National Park treats the sight-seer to
the mighty falls and canyon of the Yellowstone ; the Mis-
souri at Great Falls — a great volume of water harnessed to

TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE

industry ; and the Snake River, in southern Idaho, a tor-
rent of water fahing from a greater height and more ro-
mantic than Niagara. Principally at Butte and at Helena,
Mont., and along the Coeur d'Alenes, the mountains are giv-
ing forth untold mineral wealth. Nestled between their
mighty crests are peaceful and fertile valleys, the idyllic spots
of earth ; the scenic beauty of the Kootenai and Pend
d'Oreille, the upper sources of the Columbia; the wild

LOOKING INTO THE GREAT CRATER, EXCELSIOR BASIN.

grandeur of Avalanche Basin and the Lake McDonald coun-
try, and the glaciers of the mountains north of the interna-
tional line, bring within reach of the American traveler the
marvelous scenery of earth.

As the Main Divide of the Rocky Mountains is the western
barrier of the climatic conditions to the east, so the Bitter
Root and Coeur d'Alene mountains — the western range of
the Rockies — are the eastern barrier of the Columbia Plateau
and the entire Northwest coast region.

26 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

The Columbia Plateau may be described as the territory
lying between the Rockv and Cascade mountains, bounded
on the north by the international boundar}- and on the south
by the California and ^\e^■ada state lines. This covers the en-
tire state of Idaho and the eastern parts of Washington and
Oregon, an area of more than 175,000 square miles, and is
drained b}- the Columbia and Snake rivers, with their tribu-
taries. Although this is the basin of these two great rivers
of importance, their immediate valleys are in deep canyons,
the plains lying at quite an elevation above. The entire re-
gion is volcanic, having at various periods been built up by
lava flows, now existing in the form of basalt, the depth be-
ing from 3,000 to 4,000 feet. The cliffs of this formation
along the rivers are very noticeable and picturesque. The sur-
face of the main plains is devoted to wheat raising, and the
immediate river valle3-s to horticulture, one being entirely dis-
tinct from the other.

These elevated plains are much higher than the valley west
of the Cascades, but much lower than the Rockies or the Cas-
cades, so that the general country, exclusive of the interior
mountains, appears as one great basin. The basin, or plateau,
has, however, distinctive features. The Okanogan hills, or
mountains of the Colville reservation, culminate in Mount
Bonaparte, a snow-capped peak of 6,000 feet elevation, a sen-
tinel for all that region. These mountains are a part of the
divide between the Fraser River waters and British Columbia,
and the Columbia waters in the United States. To the south
m central Oregon are the Blue Mountains, running in a
northeasterly and soutliwesterly direction, extending into
southeastern Washington. A spur of the same mountains
branches off at about the center of the range and runs in a
general southerly direction as far as Harney and Malheur
counties in southern Oregon. These mountains are very high,
some peaks reaching from 7,000 to 10,000 feet, but, being in
the dry region, are snow-capped but a very 'small fraction of
the year. They have aided materially in shaping the courses
of the rivers, having turned the Columbia to the westward,
sent the Snake and its branch, the Owyhee, in Idaho, on a
more northerly and roundabout direction, forced the John
Day to round their southern and eastern borders, and parallel
the Des Chutes to obtain an outlet. These are the second
sentinels of the basin country. The third are the mountains
of central Idaho, which include the Saw Tooth, Wood River,

TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE

IN THE CEDARS ON MOOSE CREEK, BITTER ROOT RANGE.

28 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Salmon River and Smoky mountains ; lastly Thunder Moun-
tain, situated in the very central part of the state of Idaho,
the most inaccessible and at the same time the most celebrated,
it being the center of a great mining excitement.

The Columbian Basin is known generally as an arid re-
gion, for the reason that the clouds, laden with moisture from
the Pacific, are held by the Cascade Mountains and forced to
give down their moisture on tlie western side, only a part
rising high enough to escape the peaks in their eastward prog-
ress. Therefore elevation throughout this region largely
gauges the rainfall ; the exception to the rule is that moist
winds and clouds sweep through the passes of the Cascades,
such as the gorge of the Columljia, and cause a greater yearly
precipitation than at other points. The Hood River country
in Oregon and the Ivlickitat country in Washington, along
the Columbia, are fortunately situated in this respect. In the
Okanogan Mountains and on all the uplands near these and
other mountains the rainfall is greater than in the depressions
of the plateau. The arid regions pertain to the lower part of
the basin, as an elevation of 3,000 feet arrests a large por-
tion of the passing clouds which, with the snowfall, affords
ample moisture for the growth of wheat. The soil is a vol-
canic ash, in some places being of great depth. It is capable
of absorbing and holding moisture to a high degree, so much
so that crops are raised often without a drop of rain from
seed time to harvest, the snow fall of the previous winter
being sufficient. This soil, when unmixed with sand, does
not irrigate successfully. On the contrary, the river val-
levs, which are arid and have a soil composed of sand and
volcanic ash, are susceptible to irrigation and highly adapted
to horticulture. In consequence, canals are built, taking the
water from the streams, and cheap lands are transformed
into wonderful fruit lands at materially higher prices. Na-
ture seems to have been very wise in her provisions. In the
Palouse country the richest wheat lands are so steep that they
are cultivated with difficulty, and the best results are said to
be had at the very top of the eminences. The volcanic soils
are very deep, improve with use, and seem to be almost in-
exhaustible. The Snake River plain is so very extensive
that it gets no summer rain, but receives quite a winter snow
fall when the neighboring mountains are being covered many
feet in depth.

These great plains are celebrated for their wheat crops,

TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE

WESTERN FRUIT IS ACHIEVING WIDE FAME.

30 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

and from the three ports of Portland, Tacoma and Seattle
there is being exported ever}' year from one-tenth to one-
eighth of the gross exportations of wheat from the United
States. The valleys are becoming celebrated the world over
for fruit ; Hood River, Oregon, for its strawberries and ap-
ples ; the Snake River \'alley for apples and prunes ; the
Yakima River Valley for apples ; and Wenatchee for apples
and garden stuff. Ail these localities raise peaches as well as
apples. The preparations for irrigation along the Des Chutes
River, in eastern Oregon, and in southern Idaho along the
Snake River \'alley are wonderful to contemplate.

The extent of really arid land east of the Cascades is now
so much a matter of uncertainty as to lead to many contro-
versies between those who would furnish irrigation systems
for profit, and the people who are ready to take the lands for
cultivation without canals, for vast regions have been re-
claimed, as the Creat Bend of the Columbia region in east-
ern Washington was, without water. People are remember-
ing how settlement and cultivation in Kansas and Nebraslva
conquered the "Great American Desert." Time is doing
the same work in tlie supposed arid region east of the Cas-
cades, pulverizing the volcanic matter, loosening it, and aiding
it to absorb moisture. Throughout the actual irrigation re-
gions steps are in progress for extensive work, both under
government control and private management. These are bv
natural reservoirs, by artificial reservoirs, and bv ditches to
direct water from the streams. These canals, or ditches, are
often man}- miles in length, with tunnels and flumes, costing
large sums of money. The plan of private operation is either
to mortgage the lands to pay for the improvement, or to.
give a part of the land — one-half of raw land, one-third of
improved land — and a rental of $1.25 per acre annually as
the water is delivered. Original cost, maintenance of co-op-
erative ditches, and those under the Care}- act, will be given
with their localities.

The climate of the Columbia Basin is materially milder
than the Montana plains east of the Rockv Mountains, and
considerably colder than the country west of the Cascade
^Mountains, bordering on the ocean. The temperature varies
considerably with the altitude, but there are no extremes of
heat or cold. There is little cold weather during the winter,
which is very short, and though snow falls over the whole
territory it is melted by the prevailing southwest winds, which

TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE

moderate the climate fully 25". These winds come from the
warm current off the coast and are commonly known as the
"Chinook winds."

IN TPIE CASCADE RANGE.

We now come to the Cascade Rang-e of mountains, a
continuation of the Sierra Nevadas of California, which have
the most marked eiTect upon the climatic conditions of the
Pacific Coast and especially the Pacific Northwest of any of
the mountain ranges. It is a compact range, varying in the

32 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

average height of from 4,000 to 8,000 feet, running parallel
to the coast line about 100 miles, and dividing two very dis-
similar regions. Many of its inland peaks rise above the
snow line and in their robes of white are of great interest
to the traveling public. Beginning on the north, near the
boundary line, the first peak of note is Mount Baker, 11,100
feet in height ; south and east of Puget Sound, standing out
from the main range almost solitary, probably the most sym-
metrical mountain on the Pacific Coast, is Mount Rainier,
or Tacoma, height 14,526 feet ; two volcanic peaks come next
— Mount Adams, 12,225, ^nd St. Helens, 10,000 feet; south
of the Columbia stands Mount Hood in all its grandeur, an-
other volcanic cone, 11,225 ^eet in height; still farther south
are Mount Jefferson, height 10,200 feet, and many peaks
ranging from 6,000 to 9,000 feet. This range is the western
barrier of the Columbia Basin and the eastern boundary of the
Pacific Coast region proper. West of the Cascade Moun-
tains, and like them, running directly parallel to the sea shore,
is the Coast Range, a broken and disconnected range of
mountains, at an average height of perhaps 3.500 feet, ris-
ing in its highest peak, Mount Olympus, to 8,000 feet. In
the Olympic Mountains they stand out in high and majestic
beauty, while farther south they are broken but rise again in
southern Oregon to meet the Siskiyous.

There is but little level country between this range and
the sea, but the country between the two ranges is mostly
a valley, extending from and including that multiplication
of inland bays and harbors known as Puget Sound southward
through Washington to the Columbia and through the entire
length of the Willamette River to the Calapooia Mountains.
This range is a spur of the Cascades, which runs east and
west and divides the Willamette Valley from the Umpqua
Valley, and again farther south, another east and west range
divides the Umpqua Valley from the Rogue River Valley.
In the great process of erosion the Columbia and Fraser riv-
ers broke through the Cascade Range on their way to the
sea. These gorges contain considerable wild and grand scen-
ery, a never ending delight to the passengers by the rail-
roads using these passes as highways. The Columbia River
is nine miles wide twelve miles above its mouth, and seven-
teen miles wide some distance farther up. During its whole
course it is a deep flowing lake or swift flowing river. It
drains 500,000 square miles of territory, while the entire por-

TOPOGRAPHY AND CLIMATE

tion of the United States, east of the Mississippi, is but 875,-
000 square miles.

The entire territory west of the Cascades is of very mod-
erate temperature with a humid atmosphere, the rainfall
reaching over 100 inches near the coast in Oregon and Wash-
ington annually. The mildness of the climate is supposed
to be due to the Japan ocean current, which is very warm
and flows in close proximity to the coast. In low altitudes
snow is extremely rare and there are no extremes of heat and
cold. The mercury seldom reaches 90° in summer, and the

THERE IS FERTILE SOIL IN ,THE WEST.

isothermal of 45° — 55° annual temperature — runs in serpen-
tine lines over the entire region. Farmers plow during all
months of the year. The cause of the. great precipitation is
attributed to the moisture-laden clouds rising from the warm
ocean current and being driven by the winds against the
mountains, and there squeezed out "like sponges. The rain
is not continuous throughout the year, for there is what is
known as a wet season and a dry season, which correspond
to the winter and summer season, the former beginning about
November 15 and ending about March 15. During the
wet season the rain falls about three fourths of the time. There

34 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

is a complete absence of violent electrical storms on the entire
Pacific Coast, thunder and lightning being exceedingly rare,
and there is also a remarkable freedom from flies. Though
warm weather is had during the day in any time of the year, it
does not signify that the evenings will be warm, for there
is no time when blankets are not needed at night.

TiiiEER. — The extreme humidity of the territory west of
the Cascade Mountains necessarily produces the most favor-
able conditions for a rank growth of vegetation. The whole
vi'estern slopes and valleys are or have been covered with a
dense growth of evergreen timber, the most wonderful body
in the world with the exception of the redwoods of Cah-
fornia. Near the higher elevations of the Cascades, where
the rainfall is the greatest, the timber grows to extreme
heights without a limb. Forests are scattered in tracts along
the higher land, east of the Cascades from California north-
ward. Eastern Oregon affords several especially fine bodies
near the head waters of the Des Chutes, and Washington,
near the Columbia, and in the Okanogan Mountains ; in
Idaho are scattered tracts throughout its mountain region,
with a very large body in the Panhandle and the Kootenai, ex-
tending into Montana. The heaviest timber is to be found
near the coast. The area in timber is estimated at over one
billion acres, and the merchantable lumber standing on it is
believed to approximate four hundred billion feet. The tim-
ber is mostly of the deciduous varieties and includes the Doug-
las, or Oregon fir, red and white cedar, and several species
of pine, hemlock, and other woods. There are some hard
woods, but they are of small growth. They are found mostly
in the southern part. Considering the length of time the for-
ests should last in commerce and manufacture, it may be stated
that the largest amount of lumber cut to this time has been
two billion feet, the combined product of Washington, Ore-
gon and British mills for the year 1902. It would therefore
appear that at this enormous rate there is enough to last
for 200 years. Great loss has occurred from forest fires, but
the government has lately inaugurated large forest reserves
and it is expected this loss will be prevented in a large de-
gree by the patrol system thus established. Of any timber
manufactured into lumber, probably the spruce and fir of this
region are the largest in the world, excepting only the Cali-
fornia redwoods. The dimensions of this timber quite sur-
pass belief, there being fir logs fourteen feet, and spruce logs

INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE

SIX TWENTY-FOUR FOOT LOGS FROM ONE TREE. OREGON FIR.

3G GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

sixteen to twenty-five feet in diameter, witli trees standing from
150 to 200 feet high, witli a record of 351 feet. In the order
of tlie value of production, lumber is the largest industry,
wheat a close second, the mines continguous to the agricultural
country third, and fisheries fourth.

Agricultural Products. — In 1900 the export of wheat
from the Pacific Northwest was 36,000,000 bushels ; in 1901
one county in Washington (Whitman) with a population of
30,000, raised 6,000,000 bushels of wheat, and one county in
Oregon (Umatilla) with a population of 18,000, raised 4,-
500,000 bushels ; this, with the live stock, wool, etc. sold,
brought a total of $195 for every man, woman and child
in the county. The same year, exclusive of British Columbia,
the Pacific Northwest raised 7,000,000 bushels of potatoes, or
one-twentieth of the average crop of the United States. The
stock, dairy and wool interests, with cereal and other crops
raised are treated in connection with the different localities.
The wheat empire, generally speaking, is co-extensive with
the basaltic soils, and contrasts with the Crimean plains of
Russia. With millions to be fed in China and other lands
near to this 'Tnland Empire,"' and with cheap transporta-
tion, it is easy to see why the wheat raiser as well as the
stock-grower is getting rich. In the days of the small farmer
in the east the cost of raising wheat was fifty cents per bushel,
not far from the price it lorought on the market. To-day,
in Washington, with the extensive system of farming, with
broad fields and combined harvesters and threshers — thus
saving the stacking and sweating process — sacking in the
fields and hauling on the good, dry roads, the cost is reduced
to from twenty-five to twenty-eight cents, while the price ob-
tained for the crops stands about fifty cents per bushel, which
gives a profit of about 100 per cent.

Mines. — The mines of the Pacific Northwest are producing
millions annually. It should not be forgotten that the North-
west has produced the greater part of the gold in the United
States treasury, which at the beginning of 1903 amounted
to nearly $600,000,000. The placers of Alaska, furnished
$25,000,000 in gold during 1902. Included in this is the prod-
uct of the Klondike, the greater part of which came to the
United States. The production of gold and silver in the dif-
ferent states for 1902, as estimated by director of the mint
at Washington, is as follows :

INDUSTRIES AND CO:\lMERCE

^K^^^BBR^HI^^^HI

^^^^Kf jH'y^^^^H^^^R*^ '^^^^^^IBf^S^^^^^^^^^^^^^^HI

T^^^^^^^^^^H

^^^^H^HHhr* ^ jid^w^^^HH^^I^^^^^^I

kj^^^^^l

^^^k'IhI^ j^^H

■*-• ^M|iuB ^ " ^^^H^^^^^^^^l

^^^^^^^^^^^Hfe^ ^^jhSm^^^^^^^^^^^^^^I

r^^^^^HB^^'^^~^^^v^^^^l^al

i^^Mi'Hfl

AT work: 1,300 FEET BELOW THE SURFACE.

38 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Silver,

Source Gold, commer-

of produce. value. cial value.

Alaska $7,823,793 $ 30,061

Arizona 4,155,099 1,680,100

California 17,124,941 480,793

Colorado 27,502,429 9,085,714

Idaho 2,067,183 3,180,000

Montana 4.134,365 6,890,000

Nevada 3,514,212 2,120,000

Oregon 1,860,465 63,600

South Dakola 7,398,057 182,373

Utah 3,720,930 6,360,000

Klondike 14,562,191 91,768

This places the total amount of gold at $80,853,070, and
of silver at $31,040,025.

The production of copper in Silver Bow County, Mont.,
alone, is about $60,000,000, or about one-fourth of the entire
production of the world.

Coal is well distributed and plays a very prominent part
in the mining economy of the entire Northwest.

Fisheries. — The salmon industry has grown to a wonder-
ful point and has been perfected within the past ten years.
The question is only whether the salmon are being depleted.
The coast states are endeavoring to maintain the supply by
propagation, the salmon waters being restocked at the rate of
50,000,000 a year, one-half furnished by the United States
hatcheries, the other half being divided between Washington
and Oregon.

Lands. — To encourage emigration the railroads have each
year offered and maintained a homeseekers' rate, about half
the regular price charged, and the surprise is that while lands
in the east are selling for from $50 an acre up, that the free
lands of the west, the richest in the world, have not been taken
faster when they offer so many inducements. Emigration h
rapidly reducing the quantity, but millions of people may
yet find government lands for homes. Enormous areas in
JBritish Columbia are offered under English laws. Alaska
is as yet untouched, and there is much excellent land in what
seems to be a far oft country. In Washington, Oregon and
Idaho, on January i, 1900, there was opened for settlement
approximately 90,000,000 acres of land, or an area equal to
one-twentieth of the total area of the United States. These
have been going to homesteaders and purchasers by script and
otherwise at the rate of 5,000,000 acres per year. These lands

INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE

are free, except for the small government charge of $i6 at
the land office. Where reservation lands have been opened
$1.25 per acre additional must be paid to the government.

Emigration. — The old bufifalo trails may yet be seen in
northern Montana in places where the ranging cattle have
not obliterated them, but no buffalo are left, save those in
corrals and parks. The Indian tepee is seen at infrequent
intervals throughout the west. The only tangible remnant
of the North American Indian are the 15,000 full bloods and
their half white brothers in the prospective state of Oklahoma,
and the few northern Indians practically corralled upon the

L tj^j. ii_. M iMK^K^^^^M

j^^L^

A FISH WHEEL ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER.

reservations. The legendary days of the buffalo and the
Indian are all that is left. The loves of Hiawatha and Min-
nehaha will be sung in future years, and history will recount
the fierce combats with Sitting Bull and Geronimo, but the
majesty of the Indian, his independence and his individnality,
have gone with the buffalo, never to return, and all within
a few short years. The Indian gave place to the pioneer,
the stockman and the railroad. The stockman is now giving
place to the diversified farmer. Few people outside of the
ever-changing west realize the effects of the waves of emi-
gration that have swept over that country.

The tides of emigration to the Northwest of to-day began
in 1879. Another wave succeeded it in 1883, and again in

40 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

1887, decreasino-, however, during the next two or three years.
The present wave of emigration is greater than those which
preceded it, and differs materially trom any of the others.
The first settlement of the Minnesota Northwest was made
by Americans in wagons, with but few dollars and their out-
fit, and by foreigners direct from Castle Garden, who settled
upon the land under the Homestead Act. The present emi-
gration chronicles the sale of these lands originally taken
throughout the Mississippi Valley at a price approximately
of $50 per acre to the farmer of the extreme eastern and mid-
dle states. With this money in hand the new capitalists, by
rail instead of by wagon, proceed to the Pacific Northwest
to seek new lands at undeveloped prices. It is estimated that
during the spring of 1902, 162,000 homeseekers passed over
the northern railway lines, 67,000 of whom settled in Mon-
tana or farther west, 10,000 going to Oregon, 50,000 to
Washington, and 7,000 to Montana. A portion went to Idaho,
which fact is probably taken into account in the Washington
figures. Fifty thousand settled in South Dakota, 12,000 in
Rlinnesota, and 8,000 in North Dakota, while 25,000 went to
Manitoba. These figures do not take into account those com-
ing over the Union Pacific Railway, this number being esti-
mated at 36,000.

The intense desire to obtain cheap lands has caused an
overflow of the American settler into Canada far beyond any
belief. A Manitoba paper puts the estimate at double the fig-
ures herein given. This is caused by the fact that the Ameri-
can citizen is not forced to take an oath of allegiance in order
to obtain the land, which may be purchased outright. The
majority of these settlers went to western Manitoba and
Assiniboia.

A large amount of land has been taken under the timber
act for the value of the timber upon the land, and the choicest
homesteads have also been settled upon, but there are large
amounts of lands as rich as any of those already taken, lack-
ing only the water to make them fertile and only partially
so at that. To open up these areas the governmai't is inaug-
urating systems of irrigating reservoirs. There is no doubt
of the irrigation age being at hand instead of hx the future.
Those who have been slothful in the past years of low prices
of commodities are now waking up and will settle the entire
domain as fast as Uncle Sam will reclaim it. As it is accom-
plished, another wave of emigration will roll over the west,

INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE

42 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

and the settler can begin at the Dakota hne and come west-
ward with the tide as those before him did, for the great Milk
River district, in northern Montana, will open fully a million
acres to settlement, as will numberless other valleys.

The Pacific Northwest is young and mighty. The re-
sources have been developed to some extent, but the possi-
bilities are beyond the majority of the other states which
form the American Union.

Commerce. — The line of the world's commerce beyond the
coast lies north of California. The Northwest has to-day
a commerce the marvel of the world in volume, scope and
energy. Transcontinental lines connect with the -east and
south, and ships, the mightiest on earth, are now being built
for the Oriental trade, which has developed into enormous
volume within a short period of time. The cities of Port-
land, Tacoma, Victoria and \^ancouver are not only con-
nected with each other by a net-work of lines, but they reach
out to Alaska and the south and to the Orient.

In a recent address, James J- Hill, President of the Great
Northern Railway, made the declaration that the trade with
the Orient is the oldest commercial trade in the world, that
the commercial nations from the earliest dawn of history have
sought it, and that it has built up more cities in the world
than any other trade.

But the trade of the Orient is comparatively new to the
United States, the line of transportation having heretofore
been to the eastward rather than to the westward. The peo-
ple of the Orient with whom we are enabled to trade con-
stitute fully one-half of the population of the earth. Ten
years ago we sold Japan annually $5,000,000 in gOods, and
purchased $30,000,000. To-day we sell this nation $30,000,-
000 and purchase $9,000,000 annually, which shows the
development of the trade along these new lines. The nation
that is now about to be opened to commerce is China. The
Chinese empire is more populous than Japan, and the better
classes are more able. To-day China purchases annually from
the United States over three hundred millions and should pur-
chase one billion dollars. The traffic to the Orient is largely a
matter of food products. Though the shipments of flour from
Puget Sound ports and from Portland have reached magnifi-
cent proportions, the traffic is susceptible of enormous develop-
ment. During 1901 the flour used in China would equal, in the
wheat form, about 18,000,000 bushels ; for the year ending June

INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE

44 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

30, 1902, the exports of flour from Puget Sound to the Orient
and South Africa amounted to one and a quarter million bar-
rels. Steel rails have been shipped to Japan, and cotton, the
value of which reached several million dollars, has been shipped
to various ports of the Orient. A single Puget Sound line to
the Orient was compelled to refuse in a single month 30,000
bales of cotton from the southern states, from the lack of
ships to carry them.

The movement of lumber from the forests of Puget Sound
to the east, at a fair rate, necessitates the cars being loaded
on their return. The lumber and shingle shipment for this
long distance enables the railroads to make a short rate on .
cotton and products bound for the Orient, and thus a basis
for this trade has been established. The wheat that is raised
on the basaltic plains of the Columbia Basin has a near and
ready market toward the setting sun in exchange for tea,
sugar, silks, etc. The trade, now in its infancy, is lacking in
ocean transportation, and larger ships with greater carrying
capacity are being built than ever before.

The distance from the ports of the American Pacific coast
are much nearer the Oriental seaboards than New York or
the European cities. A few figures will readily show the ad-
vantage. The distance from Liverpool to Canton is 10,900
miles : San Francisco to Canton, 6,800 miles. From San
Francisco to the Amur River, 3,900 miles ; to Vladivostock,
5,750 miles; from Liverpool, 13,550 and 1^,750 miles respect-
ively. The difference in favor of San Francisco amounts to
several thousand miles, and the ports of Puget Sound are sev-*
eral hundred miles nearer Asia than San Frailcisco, for tlis
degrees of longitude are less in miles in proportion to their
distance from the equator.

The Pacific Ocean has become the center of a commercial
battle now raging, and the inhabitants of the north Pacific
Coast are the ones who will determine the results and reap
the rewards. They are the nearest neighbors of the people to
the west (not to the east) and are enabled to visit them weekly
with their ships and goods for barter. A step to Hawaii, a
second to the Philippines, and lo ! a magical change took place
and a continual stream of goods poured into these countries,
whose internal workings ten years ago were a sealed book.

With lines of American steamships, built in American ship-
yards, owned by American capital, officered by American sea-
men, and plying between the North .\merican seaboards and

INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE

46 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Oriental ports, the predominance on the Pacific Ocean is as-
sured to the United States.

MINNESOTA.

Minnesota, the land of a myriad of beautiful lakes and
highly cultivated farms, is the first state traversed on a trip
from the twin cities — St. Paul and Minneapolis — to the Pa-
cific Coast over either of the northern routes. This state
adjoins the Dominion of Canada, and has an area of 83,365
square miles, of which 4,160 square miles are water. Its
population to-day is more than 2,000,000 people. In 1900
the unappropriated lands in this state comprised more than
4,000,000 acres, of which over 2,000,000 were unsurveyed.
These lands lie mostly in the extreme northern part of the
state, which is generally a timbered country and is at pres-
ent distant from railway transportation. Two-thirds of the
state is a fertile prairie country, the larger part of which has
been settled up during the past thirty years and is now devoted
to diversified farming ; in the southern part the improved
land has a value of about $50 per acre.

The early history of the state is like that of many others,
a fierce struggle with the Indians for mastery, in which sev-
eral atrocious massacres took place. Wheat was the great
staple in the early days, but this cereal in the southern part
of the state has given place to corn, cattle, and dairying, and
in consequence of its exceedingly succulent grasses the fame
of that locality is becoming as wide as that of Wisconsin,
which produces more butter and cheese than any of the
other states of the Union. The state is separated from
North Dakota on the west by the Red River of the
North, in the valley of which the wheat fields are
very extensive, reaching the size of small European prin-
cipalities. These farms are operated on a systematic
and well regulated plan. The soil of the valley is very deep
and fertile and shows no sign of deterioration after
being sown to one crop for twenty-five years. The Red
River A^alley will be spoken of again with North Dakota.
The northern part of the state is mostly covered with pine
timber, which has been manufactured by mills along the
Mississippi River for the past half century, adding much to
the wealth of the state. In the extreme northeastern part

MINNESOTA

are extensive hematite iron mines, perhaps the largest on the
continent. From these mines the blast furnaces of Ohio and
Pennsylvania are furnished with the raw material from which
the major portion of the iron and steel rails used in the
United States is made.

The city of St. Paul, the capital of the state, situated at
the head of navigation of the Mississippi River, and Minne-
apolis, situated nine miles distant at the Falls of St. Anthony,
the two having a combmed population of fully 400,000 peo-
ple, are termed the "Twin Cities." They are very strong

THE TOWER OF OLD FORT SNELLING, MINNESOTA.

commercially and are surrounded by an empire rich in re-
sources ; to the south are corn, cattle and dairying inter-
ests ; to the east, north and noriheast, forests of pine timber
and extensive iron mines ; to the northwest extensive wheat
fields and stock ranges. In addition these cities are one of
the great railway centers, as ten railroads radiate from them
in all directions, while two trans-continental lines have their
terminals and headquarters in St. Paul. The remarkable
feature of Minneapolis is its water power and the manu-
factures connected therewith. In 1900 it manufactured the
enormous amount of 594,370,000 feet of lumber. More than
ten years ago Minneapolis became the first lumber producing

48 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

city in the world, which supremacy will probably be main-
tained until the northern lands are denuded of their forests.
In 1900 the city received 83,312,320 bushels of wheat, which
makes it the largest wheat market of the world. During this
year 15,082,725 barrels of flour were produced from this
wheat, showing that a large percentage of it was ground
in the city before leaving for the east. This is more flour
than is produced by any other 'city in the world. Its mills
have the largest capacity, which is over 27,000,000 barrels
per year, and the largest mill. Not only has Minneapolis the
largest mill, but it has the largest elevator, with a capacity
of 30,000,000 bushels, or enough to store at one time one-
third of the annual receipts of the entire city.

St. Paul is known as the main jobbing center of the state,
the city has various manufactories of boots and shoes and all
the intermediate articles, with a banking capital equal to any
emergency. The cities are romantically located, have exten-
sive park systems, especially Minneapolis, and fine streets and
residences. Between the cities are located Fort Snelling, at
one time the Indian military outpost of the country, and the
Falls of Minnehaha, made famous by Longfellow's poem. The
lakes of the state are not marshes, but pure, clear, sky-tinted
waters, pleasant to look upon. They are filled with fish and
in season with ducks and geese in profusion.

Duluth, "the Zenith City of the Unsalted Seas," is located
on Lake Superior and the St. Louis River, the extreme west-
ern shore of the great lakes, and if a deep waterway to the
Atlantic is ever effected this city will become an Atlantic sea-
port. To-day it is a water terminal of the Great Northern
and Northern Pacific railways, has large elevator capacity,
and handles nearly as much wheat as Minneapolis. Its flour
mills are also becoming celebrated. A fleet of several hun-
dred vessels takes the different tonnage from this port,
through the Sault Ste. Marie Canal to eastern ports. The
city is built upon a hillside, overlooking Lake Superior, and
has a population of about 75,000.

Taking the state of Minnesota as a whole, it is ramified by
many railroads, the Great Northern, the Northern Pacific, and
the "Soo Line" covering the northwestern part of the state.

MINNESOTA

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GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

NORTH DAKOTA.

North Dakota is an immense stretch of level and rolling
pairie land and river valleys, with numerous small lakes.
Its area is 70,795 square miles and its population 319,146.
The Red River of the North, which is the eastern boundary
of the state, forms a valley including that part located in the
state of Minnesota, comprising a tract of land 250 miles long,
with a width of from fifty to 100 miles. This valley is almost
a level plain, with a descent of from one to two feet to the
mile, sloping to the north, in which direction the river runs.

A BIT OF DULUTIT AND HARBOR.

It is so nearly level that the currents of the streams are quite
sluggish. The altitude above sea level at Fargo on this
river is 902 feet, and at Pembina, on the boundary line, 789
feet. This entire valley is very fertile, the soil being a black
loam, with a subsoil of alluvial clays, mixed with drift, sand,
and gravel. The valley has an area of about one-thirteenth
of Minnesota and North Dakota together, and produced in
1902 fully 40,000,000 bushels of wheat, or more than twen-
ty-five per cent of the crop of the two states combined. The
products of this remarkable valley have made the state cel-
ebrated in all countries. For twenty-five years it has been
raising No. i hard wheat in such quantities that led to its be-
ing called the "bread basket of the world." Perhaps no

NORTH DAKOTA

country of like area has been so productive of the cereals.
The land is under a high state of cultivation and the country
is dotted with beautiful homes. The farms have been hereto-
fore what is known as "Bonanza" farms from their extent,
some comprising from 30,000 to 40,000 acres. These farms
are now being subdivided, and there are other lands to be ob-

STREET SCENE IN DULUTH.

tained which have been partially cultivated, or even raw lands,
which will produce in the same proportion as those previously
tilled.

The Red River \'alley proper includes the counties of Pem-
bina, Walsh, Grand Forks, Traill, Cass, and Richland, in
North Dakota, and Kittson, Marshall, Polk, Norman, Clay,
Red Lake, and \^'ilkin, in Minnesota, the heavy black top soil

52 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

of the valley readily marking its boundary. The valley is not
thickly settled, and the price of land is low compared with
its value, though it has advanced nearly loo per cent since
1900. Throughout this state land can be had from $5 to $30
per acre. There are no good homesteads outside of the arid
belt left in this state. The soil of central Dakota is a black
loam, varying from two to three feet in thickness ; it has a
clay subsoil, which retains the moisture of the winter and
early spring in reserve for summer use, and its fertility is
remarkable. The Red River Valley has ample rainfall, which
gradually decreases toward the west until the Missouri Coteau
is reached, beyond which irrigation is required. From the
Turtle and Pembina mountains, along the boundary line to
the south, the descent is gradual to Devil's Lake, which
has no visible outlet and whose waters are salty, or alkaline.

Between the Turtle Mountains and the ^lissouri River lies
the Missouri Coteau, a grass}- upland country extending
across the state from northwest to southeast and forming the
eastern watershed of the Missouri. The plateau affords evi-
dences of the great glacial lake, which in prehistoric times
extended from Lake Winnipeff to Oklahoma. Of this vast
lake the Red River and Lake AVinnipeg country was the very
bottom or basin, and the smaller lake formed there afterward
is known to geologists as Lake Agassiz. The Missouri Coteau
formed a section of the western shore line at one stage. The
countrv east of the Coteau is a rolling prairie sloping to the
southeast, drained by the Cheyenne and James rivers. The
Mouse River enters the United States near the Coteau, and
after a wide circle returns to Canada west Of the Turtle
Mountains. This is a good wheat valley. The Little Mis-
souri, the Heart and the Cannon Ball rivers water the west-
ern part of the state and discharge into the Missouri River
on the west. The whole southern and central part of the
state is good wheat land, save the so-called "Bad Lands" in
the extreme southwestern part, wliich comprise a belt twenty-
five miles wide and one hundred miles long, and follow the
Little Missouri River. This land, once a level plain, has been
cut by the branches of the Little Missouri and the action of
fire from burning lignite coal seams, so as to form a labyrinth
of gullies, buttes and figures of all sorts, in which the novice
would become irretrievably lost. East of Medora, where the
Northern Pacific crosses the ]\Iissouri River, the buttes are
of a blood-red color ; in places petrified stumps and trunks

NORTH DAKOTA

54 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

of trees are brought to the surface, and at a number of places
coal veins are still burning beneath the surface of the ground,
sending forth sulphurous fumes through fissures in the earth.
This whole country, however, is covered with grass, and is one
of the finest cattle districts in the west. A special merit of
the bad lands is that stock is sheltered in the ravines during
the winter.

The winters of North Dakota are sometimes very cold, but
the air is dry and the cold is not severely felt. The extreme
range of temperature is 105° to — 44°, and the annual rainfall
for the major part of the state is eighteen inches. Large areas
in the western part of the state, especially west of the Mis-
souri River, are underlaid with lignite coal of good quality.
In the Turtle Mountains, at Burlington, at Kenmare, at Har-
vey, in Wells County, and at Washburn, in McLean County,
coal is being mined and sold at a profit, nearly fifty coal
mines being operated in the state to some extent. In the
"Bad Lands" coal seems to exist in some places six to eight
feet in thickness, and it is not uncommon for farmers to have
coal mines on their farms.

The Northern Pacific Railway traverses the middle south-
ern portion of the state, having been built as far as Bismarck
in 1873. The Great Northern crosses the middle northern
portion of the state from east to west, and the "Soo Line"
crosses the state in a northeasterly and southeasterly direc-
tion, entering Canada by the Mouse River Valley. The
Great Northern and Northern Pacific reach Winnipeg in
Manitoba Province through the Red River Valley.

Bismarck, the capital of the state, has a population of
3,319, is situated on the Missouri River at the crossing of the
Northern Pacific. Jamestown, with a population of 2,853, ^^
a prosperous town ninety-eight miles east of Bismarck.

Fargo is situated on the Red River and the Northern Pa-
cific and Great Northern railwavs, and is the commercial cen-
ter of the state. It has a population of 9.589.

Grand Forks is the commercial center of the northeastern
part of the state, lies in the heart of the Red River, wheat
Ijelt, and has a population of 7,652.

There has been quite a boom in North Dakota lands during
the past two or three years, since it has been learned that
nearlv the entire state produces most all kinds of crops. In
1901 the crop of wheat produced was $45,741,618 bushels;
flax, 12,868,088 bushels: oats, 20,7^10,314 bushels; barley.

NORTH DAKOTA

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

0,140,437 bushels; corn, 1,282,082 bushels; potatoes, 2,031,-
608 bushels, and there was live stock sold to the value of
$5,306,167.

A DAY S HUNT IN NORTH DAKOTA.

The Commissioner of Agriculture and Labor reports for
the year 1901 38,801 cultivated farms and over 20,000 com-
bmed ranches and farms, forty-three lignite coal mines in
operation, eight cheese factories and thirty-eight creameries.

MONTANA.

The name Montana is from the Spanish language, mean-
ing mouHtainous, and the state is known as the "Bonanza" or
"Treasure" state, from its mountains containing such vast
mineral deposits. It is bounded by the Canadian provinces of
Alberta and Assiniboia on the north, the Dakotas on the east,
Wyoming and Idaho on the south, and the latter state on the
west. The average length of the state from east to west is
535 miles, and the breadth from north to south 275 miles,
comprising the great area of 146,080 square miles, or, ap-
proximately, 94,000,000 acres. It is the third largest state in
the Union, and by the 1900 census had a population of 243,-

329-

E.\RLY History. — As early as 1742 the French voyageur,
Verendrye, and his sons traversed this state in quest of furs
and camped at the base of the Rocky Mountains. In 1805
the now famous Lewis and Clark expedition ascended the
main rivers of the state, marvelled at the falls of the Mis-
souri, named the head waters of that great river, climbed the
Rocky Mountains, and passed on to the Pacific. Retracing

MONTANA

their steps by a shorter route, they explored the Marias and
Yellowstone rivers and returned to the then settled part of
the United States. Their names are now indelibly inscribed
on the geography of the country.

Montana's rich storehouse of nature had been, since the
earliest discoveries, either in the possession of France or

IN PYRAMID PARK, NORTH DAKOTA.

Spain, but in 1803 Napoleon, being short of money, bar-
gained it to the United States with the other territory con-
stituting what is known as the Louisiana Purchase.

Following the superficial knowledge thus learned, Emanuel
Liza, of St. Louis, in 1809 established a trading post on the
Yellowstone, and in 1827 Fort L'nion was built at the mouth
of the Milk River by the American Fur Companv. The first
step toward navigation of the Missouri River was in 1832,

58 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

when the steamboat Yellowstone arrived at Fort Union ; in
1835 the steamer Assinniboine came up as far as Fort Buford
and ascended the Yellowstone River for about sixty-five
miles ; and in 1846 Alexander Culbertson built Fort Benton,
and the steamboat Chippewa, in i860, reached that point and
established it as the head of navigation, and it so remained,
going into the annals of history as the extreme outpost of
steam communication until the transcontinental railroads were
built. It enjoyed a great trade in furs, buffalo hides, etc., in
exchange for goods, and it took an entire season for a boat
to make the round trip from St. Louis, running many risks
trom the quicksands and changing sand bars of that capricious
stream, and the many dangers from attacks by Indians, who
became gradually more belligerent toward the white man
until they were subjugated. The Catholic missionaries fol-
lowed the fur traders and the trappers, Father De Smet
founding St. Mary's Mission in Ravalli County in 1862. He
is given the credit of having sown the first wheat field at
Stevensville and of building, in 1845, St. Ignatius' Mission,
with a school for boys and girls. The latter is the mission
on the present Flathead Indian Reservation, in Missoula
County. Thus religion, education, agriculture, and commerce
were all given an impetus within a very few years. After
this spurt slow progress was made toward civilization and
settlement, though the territory of Montana was organized in
1864 and a capital established at Virginia City. The Indian
and buffalo roamed the plains, and only the hardy trapper,
hunter, or prospector was willing to take the chance of ex-
ploration or settlement thereon.

Attention to the mineral resources of Montana was fir.^t
called by a Red River half-breed named Finlay in 1852, who
discovered placer gold on what is now Gold Creek, in Powell
County. In 1858 the Granville Stewart party worked placer
claims successfully near the present town of Pioneer. Fol-
lowing this came the discovery of rich ground at Bannack,
Alder, and Ophir, and in August, 1864, of Last Chance
Gulch, now the location of the city of Helena, which in 1875
became the capital of the state, and of several hundred other
placers, which produced so well that many millions were
added to the gold of the world, and the search for the yellow
metal took the place of trapping and fur trading.

The first quartz mill, a rough affair, made from wagon
irons, was set up at Bannack in 1862, and the first smelter

MONTANA

MAIN STREET, BISMARCK

BRIDGE OVER THE MISSjURI RIVER AT BISMARCK, rg . u.

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

was erected at Ar,2;cnta in 1867. The act admitting Montana
as a state passed Congress February 22, 1889, and the admis-
sion took place November 8 of the same year. The first rail-
road was built into Montana from Ogden, Utah, as a connec-
tion of the Union Pacific, in 1881. The Northern Pacific
arrived at Helena in 1883; the Great Northern at Kalispell
in 1 89 1. The completion of the roads solved the transporta-
tion problem and the steamboat traffic became a thing of the
past. The completion of the Northern Pacific, the first trans-
continental line through Montana, was accomplished amid
great rejoicing and all day celebrations at St. Paul and Minne-
apolis. The Custer battle was fought on the Little Big Horn
in 1876, the Indians were finally placed upon agencies, under
government surveillance, and a new era set in.

INDIAN SCJ-IOOL

IGNATIUS MISSION, FLATHEAD CO., MONTANA.

Topography. — Although the name of this state conveys to
the mind of the reader that it is mountainous, yet less than
one-third is strictly so. The state is divided into two sec-
tions, with distinctly difl^erent characteristics, the region of
the plains comprising the eastern two-thirds, and the moun-
tainous the remaining one-third. The former section is a
rolling expanse of prairie, gradually rising from the east to
the Rocky Mountains, broken only by the valleys of the rivers
and a few isolated groups of mountains. The plains rise from
about 2,000 feet elevation at the eastern boundary of the
state to about 4,000 feet at the base of the Rocky Mountains.
Hayden's survey gives the average altitude of the state as
3,900 feet. The United States Bulletin says it has been ascer-
tained that forty per cent of the state is under 5,000 feet eleva-
tion, twenty-one pel cent from 5,000 to 6,000 feet, fourteen per

MONTANA

cent from 6,000 to 7,000 feet, nine per cent from 7,000 to
8,000 feet and seven per cent over 8,000 feet. This leaves
thirty per cent at the low altitude of from 2,000 to 3,000 feet.
The prairie portion is embraced in Valley, Dawson, Custer,
Rosebud, Yellowstone, Carbon, Sweet Grass, Fergus, and Cho-
teau and the larger part of Teton and Cascade counties. The
other counties of the state are mountainous, though there are
broad valleys and basins between the mountains, aggregating

THE MATTERHORN, 9,500 FEET HIGH. FLATHEAD COUNTY, MONTANA.

thousands of square miles of good agricultural land, such as
the INlissoula, Flathead, and other valleys lymg between the
Main Divide and the Bitter Root and Kootenai ranges of
mountains. The extreme southeastern part of Montana has the
same characteristics as the bad lands of the Dakotas, being an
abrupt, broken, and waterless country.

The main range of the Rockv ^fountains extends north-
west and southeast throughout the state, and from the snow
capped peaks flow the great network of rivers which water
the entire state. The general elevation of the range at the

62 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

crest is given as 6,500 feet, but there are twenty-two moun-
tain peaks with elevations exceeding 10,000 feet, and six of
these have altitudes greater than 11,000 feet, the highest being
Mount Douglas, 11,300 feet. Some of these are covered with
snow throughout the year. Besides the main range there are
the Belts, the Highwood, Bear Paw, Crazy, Little Rocky, and
Big Snowy mountains to the east, and the Bitter Root, Coeur
d'Alene, Kootenai, and Cabinet mountains to the west.

The two largest and most prominent rivers of the state are
the Missouri and the Yellowstone, the former being the union
of the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin rivers at Three Forks,
in Gallatin County, one of the most southerly counties of the
state. After an erratic course this river reaches Choteau, one
of the most northerly counties, and then zigzags its way to the
eastern boundary of the state, joining with the Milk River in
Valley County and the Yellowstone at the boundary, and then
proceeds on its way to the Mississippi. The Clark's Fork of
the Columbia, or Missoula River, rises on the west side of the
Main Divide, runs mainly through Missoula County on its
northwest course to Lake Pend d'Oreille and the Pacific
waters. In Flathead County, in the extreme northwest part
of the state, simply an elbow or bend of the scenic Kootenai
is made in this state, as it comes in from the north and passes
into Idaho on the west on the same errand as the Missoula.
These rivers are all swift running, have steep bluffs, or flow
between canyon walls, and create many falls and cascades.
The Great Falls of the Missouri, the highest being approxi-
mately 100 feet, in Cascade County, and those of the Clark's
Fork, are the most notable.

A narrow strip of the Yellowstone National Park, elsewhere
described, extends across the boundary line into Park and
Gallatin counties, Montana.

The Milk River, a very prominent river of the northern
part of the state, rises in Teton County, flows northeastward
into Canada, and returns to Montana again in Choteau
County, where it enters the Missouri. Between the Rocky
Mountains on the east and the Bitter Root and other moun-
tains on the west lies a great basin, 250 miles long, and
averaging about seventy-five miles in width, which has a
marked physical difference from the eastern or larger portion
of the state. In climatic and agricultural possibilities it is the
most favored region of the state. Timber and water are in
abundance, the rainfall in most oarts is sufficient, and the cli-

MONTANA

64 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

mate is very moderate. This western region of tlie state is
subdivided into smaller valleys ; in the extreme northwest is
a basin drained by the Kootenai River ; south of this lies a
region tributary to the Missoula River ; then that of the
Bitter Root, or St. Mary's River. Though Montana is not a
state of lakes, it has many, of which Flathead is the most
prominent. It is twenty-seven miles long, has a width of
twelve miles, and lies in the famous Flathead country, sur-
rounded by rich agricultural lands. The lake and river of the
same name are navigable.

Climate. — Montana is a region having a very dry and
bracing atmosphere. The winters are long, and though not
continually cold, the thermometer, when in^ sympathy with
the Canadian cold waves, indicates a very low temperature.
These cold wave periods are infrequent and of short dura-
tion. The prevailing wind is from the southwest, is known as
the Chinook wind, from the Paciiic, and this moderates the
weather and melts the snow, which is usually light outside of
the mountainous regions. Cattle and sheep are thus allowed
to graze upon the ranges usually throughout the winter with-
out extra feed. There are, however, severe winters at times,
for which preparation must be made. Such a winter came in
1886-7, when more than one-half of the stock died from lack
of feed and exposure, and the winter of 1902-3 was unusually
severe. Loss of stock is easily prevented, and no stockman
now is without at least six weeks' feed. The cold weather is
not severely felt in Montana, however, owing to the small
percentage of humidity during these months. The blizzard
in its good old-day form is not known except in the extreme
eastern part of the state. Vast herds of cattle and flocks of
sheep are continuously feeding throughout the winter on the
buffalo grass, a native grass which cures itself upon the
ground, retaining its nutritious qualities, though sere and
yellow. This grass is cured by the sun and the wind before
the frost comes in the fall, thus retaining its juices. This
wonderful grass, the dry air, the light snowfall, which is soon
dissipated by the Chinook winds, and the short duration of
the excessive cold weather is the secret of the Montana stock-
man's success, and is not generally understood by those who
live in a more humid atmosphere, where the same conditions
do not obtain.

• The summer is comparatively short and warm, crops grow-
ing quickly. The heated air is, however, cooled by the moun-

MONTANA

66 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

tain breezes at night, so that the cHmate is very pleasant.
The mean annual temperature, at the eastern base of the
Rocky Mountains, is from 40° to 50° ; the rainfall is from
ten inches in the extreme eastern section to twenty-five inches
in the mountain valle3rs.

Irrigation. — Although there are large areas in those coun-
ties designated as prairie counties that may be rated as semi-
arid, there are thousands of square miles which receive abun-
dant precipitation, particularly in Cascade, Gallatin, Teton,
Fergus, and Sweet Grass counties. Most of these lands
border on the foothills of the mountain ranges. The other
agricultural lands, with the exception of those in the river
bottoms, reciuire irrigation, but when placed under water yield
in abundance. Approximately forty per cent of the tilled
lands of the state are now producing without the aid of arti-
ficial watering. Much of Missoula, Ravalli, Beaver Head,
Madison, Deer Lodge, Meagher, Cascade, Fergus, Gallatin,
and Sweet Grass counties afford opportunities to locate on
agricultural lands that can be profitably tilled without the aid
of irrigation. There are millions of acres that must be wa-
tered, and the drawback in this direction has been the lack of
facilities to bring the water in sufficient quantity. Canals on
a large scale have been very expensive ; in consequence, as an
inducement to the reclamation and settlement of the arid
lands. Congress passed the Carey desert land act, giving the
different states titles to lands when the state shall have re-
claimed them. Montana took advantage of this act, created
an irrigation commission and authorized it to issue bonds for
the accomplishing of the work, and in this way considerable
progress was made.

Since the enactment of the Carey law much interest has
been aroused in the question of irrigation throughout the
entire west, and a movement was subsequently started to
induce the United States government to build reservoirs and
to construct public canals. The government then set aside
large forest reserves along the mountain ranges of the arid
states, for the double purpose of preventing their early de-
nudation and retaining the timber as a source of moisture,
especially in liolding the snows. A bill was passed and signed
by the President, during the month of June, 1902, which
created a reclamation fund from the sale of public lands in
Arizona, California, Colorado, Idaho, Kansas, Montana, Ne-
braska, Nevada, New Mexico, North Dakota, Oklahoma,

MONTANA

Oregon, South Dakota, Utah, Washington, and Wyoming.
This reclamation fund, with some reductions, is to be used
for the construction and maintenance of irrigation work in
the states and territories enumerated. This will no doubt
solve the question satisfactorily, so that lands which are not
under private canals, or the co-operative sytem of the Carey
act, will be irrigated by the national government. (For the
Carey act in full, see addenda. )

A number of canals have been built in this state and are
now distributing water with success. Among the more promi-
nent are the Crowe Butte, or Sun River Canal, which is more

A HERD OF MONTANA CATTLE.

than TOO miles in length ; the Minnesota & Montana Land
Improvement Canal, at Billings, thirty miles in length ; the
Dearborn, a co-operative canal under the Carey act, in Lewis
and Clark county ; the Belknap Canal, in the Milk River Val-
lev, Choteau County ; the Hinsdale Co-operative Canal, in
Valley County ; several canals in Cascade County ; the Miles
City, or Tongue River Canal, in Custer County, twenty-nine
miles long: the Manhattan Canal and the West Gallatin
Canal, in Gallatin County ; the canals in Bitter Root Valley
and Ravalli County ; and the Conrad Investment Company
Canal, in Teton County. Particular attention has been drawn
to the northwest part of Montana by the Secretary of State

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

in his annual report, which approved of what is known as
the St. Mary's Lake Diversion Canal, which will turn the
waters of St. Mary's River into the Milk River, thereby fur-
nishing a greater supply of water with which to irrigate the
remaining unirrigated land in that great valle}-. It is be-

' "■''^^v

OBSIDIAN (natural GLASS) CLIFF.

lieved that the very first work undertaken by the government
will be a low line canal along the Milk River \'alley, as forty-
one townships have been withdrawn from settlement in the
neighborhood of Havre. According to the provisions of the
new irrigation bill, the reclaimed land can only be secured
under the homestead act, and will be subject to the actual cost
of irrigation after construction. When the cost has been de-

MONTANA

temiined, a charge will be made against the land, which will
be payable in ten annual payments, without interest. Assum-
ing that the cost of reclaiming the land under this low line
will be from $io to $15 an acre, the cost per year to the
homesteader will be $1 or $1.50 an acre per year for the ten
years. This can all be paid in one payment if so desired.
Only 160 acres of land can be entered, and those already
owning land can purchase water for 160 acres and will be
charged the same price as if they located the land. Home-
steads mav be taken in lands withdrawn from market before

DAM AND ELECTRIC POWER PLANT ON THE MISSOURI.

the ditches are built, the idea being to encourage those who
will go upon and improve the land.

The cost, in co-operative ditches, per acre, is of course
gauged by the expense, and many small diverting ditches are
made by individuals, where their lands lie along streams of
considerable fall, with practically no expense at all. Lands
under private ditches cover a wide range of price. 'Those
devoted exclusively to horticulture, for instance, in the neigh-
borhood of jMissoula, are held at from $150 to $200 per acre,
while lands in the eastern part of the state susceptible of
producing the cereals, hay, alfalfa, etc., range from $15 up.

The following table of average values of irrigated and un-
irrigated lands in the various counties of the state and the

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

cost of the water rights and maintenance of canals is from
the Twelfth United States Census Report :

AVERAGE VALUE PER ACRE OF IRRIGATED AND UNIRRI-
GATED FARMS AND IRRIGATED LAND, JUNE i, 1900,
WITH AVERAGE COST PER ACRE OF WATER RIGHT
AND MAINTENANCE.

AVERAGE COST
AVERAGE VALUE PER ACRE, EXCLUSIVE ^^^ WATER
Of CUILDINGS PER ACRE

COUNTIES ^^.^^. j^^. ,^_.;_ ^„„^^,

p„7' Rated gated gated ^?\^[ Mamte-

I-arms i,-j,rms Farms Laud '^'S'" nance

The State (a) $s.4S $37i $6-i9 $i9-66 $3.12 $0.28

Beaver Head 7.48 3.3S 7.69 13-24 2.01 0.20

Broadwater 8.94 5.43 9.27 16.74 449 0-i6

Carbon 10.06 3.20 11.38 19.69 3.61 0.26

Cascade 4.83 4.09 5.87 15.04 1.41 0.31

Choteau 4.30 2.25 5.47 13.S8 1.87 0.27

Custer 2.98 2.32 4,3s 29.47 9-13 0-79

Dawson 2.20 2.04 306 12.19 7.19 0.39

Deer Lodge 7.04 4.79 7.19 20.48 3.85 0.23

Fergus 4.58 2.16 4.91 12.70 1.60 0.21

Flathead 11.02 11.58 8.20 32.46 7.70 0.52

Gallatin 12.50 10.74 -04 31-22 5.88 0.13

Granite 9.40 5.20 9.75 14-99 S-84 0.27

Jefferson 9.74 2.59 10.16 22.31 3.91 0.14

Lewis and Clarke 5.43 5.26 5.48 14.00 1.30 0.20

Madison 7.95 6.18 8.09 17.70 4.48 0.23

Meagher 2.78 1.25 2.82 12.49 2.61 0.14

Missoula 11.26 8.46 12.73 55-91 7.80 0.33

Park 5.45 4.73 5-54 15-73 3-57 0.33

Ravalli 16.26 6.44 17.17 37.46 5.92 0.12

Silver Bow 9.09 5.54 9.58 23.77 4-32 0.17

Sweet Grass 3.68 2.32 3.84 21.31 3.32 0.68

Teton 4-8S 422 5.33 14.82 1.03 0.32

Valley 3.68 3.52 3.91 18.47 2.80 0.15

Yellowstone 1.91 1.37 2.34 32.15 5.52 0.49

(a) Exclusive of Indian resei vations.

It is probably a fair, conservative estimate to place one-
fourth of the lands of the entire state as being susceptible of
irrigation, and that the average value of all the arable lands
in Montana is $2.50 per acre, and it is considered conservative
to place the value of the same land after water has been put
upon it at from $50 to $70 per acre. This is based upon ex-
periences in irrigation in California, Colorado, and other arid
regions.

MONTANA

IN THE STOPE.

AN UNTIMEERED DRIFT.

72 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Resources. — Mining at present is pre-eminently Montana's
foremost industry and most valuable source of wealth. In the
early stages, when the placers in the gulches were worked by
the adventurous seekers after the yellow metal, gold was
enthroned as king. At a later date, when almost pure silver
was found and the metal given a coin value, silver succeeded
gold upon the throne. But to-day, beyond any doubt, copper
has cast these metals both aside and donned the crown, for
Montana to-day produces as much copper as all the other
states in the Union combined, and one-fourth of the product
of the entire world.

Copper was first discovered near Butte in 1864. The growth
of the mining of that metal was slow, owing to the difficulty
in smelting it, but the output of mines in the state to-day
aggregates a yearly value of $37,000,000 ; the value of silver
throughout the state is $20,000,000; gold, $5,000,000; coal,
$1,500,000; and lead, $1,000,000. From 1865 to 1898 the
value of Montana's mineral output was $217,000,000 in gold;
$273,000,000 in silver; and $217,000,000 in copper; and it is
stated on good authority that not one-half of one per cent of
the mineral acreage containing valuable deposits is at present
being worked. Certainly mineral development is yet in its
infancy. In addition to the mineral deposits, quite extensive
ruby and sapphire beds have been discovered in the western
part of Fergus County, and there have lately been reports
of the discovery of diamond fields. As it is, the mines have
fairly given Montana the title she now claims of the Bonanza
State, for there are more bonanza kings in Montana probably
than in any country on earth. The Dalys and Clarks of
Butte, though having taken out a half billion dollars from ■
the mines of that city, are not the only men in Montana who
affix seven and eight figures to the estimate of their wealth.

The production of gold, silver, copper, and lead for the
year 1901 is given officially as $60,387,619.01, to say nothing
about coal, which plays a very prominent part. These metals
are comparatively well distributed throughout the dififerent
counties, every one in the state, with but few exceptions,
contributing to the wealth.

Stock. — In consequence of the semi-arid condition of the
land and sparseness of settlement, stockraising has been the
" principal pursuit after mining. Very little land has been un-
der fence, and the foothills and high ranges will probably
never be anything but free range or pasture for stock. The

MONTANA

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74 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

far-famed buffalo grass covers these plains, and all hay
grasses grow luxuriantly. Stock has been allowed to almost
take care of itself, so the business has become very extended.
Cattle and sheep have lately brought very good prices, and
in consequence the business is prosperous. It is estimated
that there are now grazing in the state 200,000 head of horses,
800,000 cattle, and 3,000,000 sheep; that the total value of
live stock on farms and ranges, June i, 1900, was $52,161,833,
of which forty-five per cent represented the value of the meat
cattle, exclusive of dairy cows, 34.8 per cent sheep, 14.9 per cent
horses, and 3.6 per cent dairy cows. Calves are valued at
$11.89; steers, one and under two years old, $21.17; two and
under three years old, $29.81 ; three and over, $39.99 ; horses,
$26.84; lambs, $1.95; sheep (ewes), $3.37; and sheep
(rams and wethers), $3.49. The average value of horses is
low because the Indian ponies of the Indian reservation are
included. These ponies number thousands, and are valued
at only from $3 to $10 per head.

The largest cattle herds are in the northern part of the state,
but the greater flocks of sheep are tributary to Billings, Great
Falls, and Fort Benton, the three great wool markets of the
state and of the United States. The shipments of cattle from
Montana to Chicago reached the enormous number of 430,500
head in 1895. The prices of range cattle in the Chicago mar-
ket have varied from $4.50 per hundredweight to $6 per hun-
dredweiglit on the hoof, and in 1902, at the height of the
market, a few lots brought above seven cents a pound. Lambs
of good cross, fed on alfalfa, have brought as high as $6 per
hundredweight. The feeding of sheep is becoming quite gen-
eral in the valleys, where irrigation admits of the raising of
alfalfa. The Yellowstone Valley has become fampus for
alfalfa, the Gallatin for alsike clover, the Bitter Root and Flat-
head valleys for red clover, and the Milk River and other
nothern valleys for alfalfa. In these irrigated districts sheep
breeding and feeding will become a very important industry.
Lately there has been quite a movement of southern cattle to
Montana for ranging. In 1901 the cattle came largely from
Kansas City and Omaha to the northwest, while in 1902 they
came mainly from Texas and Arizona, Texas alone shipping
99,408.

Within the past few years considerable attention has been
given to the raising of Angora goats, and the business has
been a success. The Angora goat has been kept principally

MONTANA

for its long, valuable mohair, but its skin is also valuable, as
well as its flesh and tallow. And further, the goat is a great
dairy animal, in Switzerland the finest cheese being made

from its milk. The Montana climate seems to be particularly
adapted to the goat's liking, and the foothills and benches
furnish him a natural home. The profits made from some of
the herds and the estimate of profits on a nine-year basis are
very attractive.

76 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Game. — There is a great variety of wild animals in this
state. The moose and Rocky Mountain goat are the most
rare. Several species of deer, antelope, elk, and mountain
sheep are met with in considerable numbers. Bear, lynx, the
mountain lion or panther, wildcat, and wolf abound. Some
caribou are found in season, and ducks are plentiful.

Timber. — There are over 12,000,000 acres of timber lands
in the state, not counting the smaller bodies that fringe the
streams. The estimate of this standing timber is 550,000,000
feet. The timber of merchantable value is largely in the
mountainous districts. It would appear that nature appre-
ciated the necessity of having an abundance of timber for
mining operations, and placed it near the points of consump-
tion. Aside from the valleys, all the counties lying along the
Rocky Mountains and west of the ranges are heavily tim-
bered. A large share of this land near the crest of the ranges
has been set aside by the government in the forest reserve.
There is a large body of timber along the Kootenai, in Flat-
head County, in Missoula County and Ravalli County, at
many of which places the manufacturing of lumber is carried
on very extensively. The largest of these lumber mills is on
Flathead Lake, in Flathead County.

Railroads. — Two railroads traverse the state from east to
west — the Great Northern and the Northern Pacific. The
Chicago, Burlington & Ouincy connects with the Northern
Pacific at Billings. The Oregon Short Line, a branch of the
Union Pacific, reaches Butte. The Montana Central leaves
the Great Northern at Havre and traverses the state along
the Missouri Valley to Helena and from thence over the
mountains to Butte. The Great Falls & Canada leaves the
Montana Central at Great Falls and runs northward into
Canada. The two lines of the Northern Pacific separate at
Logan and join again at Garrison, thus giving Helena, Butte,
and Anaconda a through line. All these roads, with various
branch lines, give good outlets to all points of the compass.
The Montana Railroad connects with the Northern Pacific
at Painted Rock.

COUNTIES.

Valley County. — This is the most northeasterly county of
the state. Its area is 13,486 square miles, and its population
by the 1900 census is 4,355. Although some farming is done

MONTANA

in this county, the principal industry has been stockraising,
which will undoubtedly continue in the extreme northeastern
and northern parts of the county, on account of its semi-arid
condition. The Milk River flows eastward through the cen-
tral westward part of the county, joining the Missouri not far
east of Glasgow. Its valley is capable of sustaining a large
population, as it is estimated that 300 square miles of land
can be successfully irrigated. The rolling plains make good
grazing, so that combined farming, with stockraising and

ALONG THE MISSOURI RIVER.

feeding, can he carried on with great profit. The climate is
somewhat rigorous but healthy. The soil of the valleys, as
throughout most of Montana, is a loam which will produce
abundantly. There is still some vacant land left, which can
be taken under the different acts.

The Great Northern Railway traverses the county from
east to west. Glasgow, the county seat, is the largest town
in the county and the end of the freight division on this rail-
road. It is located on the Milk River, has hotels, railway
shops, churches and generally good buildings. The surround-
ing country is fast settling up.

78 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Hinsdale, a station farther west on the Great Northern, is
also on the Milk River, at the mouth of Rock Creek, one of
the best streams of the county. At this point an irrigating
ditch has been completed, and a good many substantial farm-
ers and stockmen have settled there.

Malta, on the Great Northern Railway and the Milk River,
near the western line of the county, is the second largest busi-
ness town in the county. This town ships to Chicago on an
average per year 20,000 range beef cattle ; the same of mut-
ton and sheep, and approximately 1,000,000 pounds of wool.
To show the extent of some sheep interests it may be stated
that 175,000 sheep were shorn at two plants near this place
in 1900. There are other stock shipping and supply places
in the county of less size.

Choteau County is one of the largest in the state, having
an area of 14,835 square miles and a population of 10,966.
Topographically the county is composed of rolling prairies
and valleys, with the Bear Paw Mountains rising near the
center, and the Sweet Grass hills in the northwest, the Little
Rocky in the southeast, and the Highwood Mountains in the
extreme south. This county is well watered by the numerous
streams which flow through it. The principal river is the
Missouri, the others the Marias, Milk, and Teton. There are
wide and fertile valleys along the streams, suitable for irriga-
tion. The soil varies, being a sandy loam in the uplands and
a clay soil in the bottoms. Irrigation is necessary to the cul-
tivation of the land, which produces abundantly ; so far little
water has been diverted from the river, but the opportunity
presented to the settler is great, for there is almost a surety
of the government directing the waters of the St. Mary's
River into the Milk River, and building a- ditch which will
irrigate the lands now withdrawn from market. The Milk
River rises in the Rocky Mountains, runs into Canada, re-
turns again to Montana and this county, and then runs west-
ward into Valley County before joining the Misouri. This
valley comprises a strip 100 miles wide in the United States
and 300 miles long. In this vast territory but a small area
has been irrigated. The settlers on the irrigated portions are
very prosperous. Their canals have been built by co-operative
efforts and have proven economical and satisfactory. The re-
mainder of the valley is unoccupied. On the co-operative plan
it costs about $3 per acre to put the water on the land, which
can be paid for from the crop the first year. In co-operative

MONTANA

8U GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

canals $2 per acre of this can be worked out at the rate of $4
per day for man and team, so it can be seen that in this locaHty
it is not as expensive as where water is brought eighty to one
hundred miles through rock tunnels and flumes. The valley is
comparatively low in altitude, so that vegetables thrive as well
as the grains and grasses. Alfalfa, or lucern, the most valu-
able of all forage plants, grows well. This plant yields large
crops when it does well, and in some parts of the Northwest
several crops are cut in one season. It has a particular value
in fattening cattle, sheep, and hogs, producing flesh equal to
grain at much less cost. Much gold and silver is found in
the mountains. Thousands of horses, cattle, and sheep are
feeding on the ranges along the highlands of this river. The
colts have no care, and are allowed to run until four years
old, when they are broken. If wanted, they may be found
200 miles from the point where they were branded.

Fort Benton is the county seat, located on the Montana
Central Railway. This was at one time the head of naviga-
tion of the Missouri, and the great distributing point of Mon-
tana. To-day it is a great wool market. It has schools,
churches, and municipal water-works.

Havre is the junction of the Great Northern main line and
the Montana Central, has railway shops, hotels, stores, and
is a live and growing town.

Chinook is the center of the great sheep country, has an
irrigation canal, and does considerable business.

Fort Assinniboine, the largest military post in the west,
located at the foot of Bear Paw Mountain, is garrisoned by
colored troops. This point is usually rated as the coldest
place in the United States.

Teton County lies west of Choteau and has an area of
7,900 square miles. Except in the western portion, which
occupies the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, it is
prairie range and agricultural lands. The Blackfeet Indian
Reservation covers about one-fourth of the county. Copper
has been found in paying quantities in the mountains, and
the locality bids fair to become a great camp.

The county is estimated to contain 150 square miles of till-
able land, which has not yet been irrigated, the balance being
mountainous and grazing lands. This county is the seat of
the Conrad Investment Company Canal, which takes water
from the Dupuyer River, or upper branch of the Marias, and
reclaims 40,000 acres of land. A large part of this has been

MONTANA 81

sold to settlers, but there is still some left unsold. Other
ditches are being built and a new co-operative company is
being organized on the Sun River, so that the opening for
settlers in this county is very good. The price of lands, with
water, is $15 per acre up. Hay, oats, and barley are con-
sidered the best paying crops, for which there is an ample
market at Great Falls. The Great Northern Railway crosses
the nothern part of the county from east to west, and a
branch of the Great Northern, the Great Falls & Canada
Railway, passes through the eastern part of the county from
north to south, and crosses the main line at Shelby Junction.
The elevation of Summit, the crossing over the Main Divide
of the Rocky Mountains, is 5,202 feet.

Choteau, the county seat, is a thriving inland town, on a
branch of the Teton River. The Blackfeet Indian Reserva-
tion extends from the Canadian line sixty miles to the south
and forty miles east and west. There are about 2,000 Indians
on the reservation, living on ranches along the streams. They
raise many cattle for the Chicago market.

Chief Mountain, 10,800 feet in height, is the sentinel of
the Main Divide at this point, and not far distant to the east
are St. Marys lakes, which the government is considering
turning into the Milk River. From their scenery these lakes
are called the Geneva of America. They are respectively seven
and eleven miles in length ; the sides are very abrupt, rising
to a considerable height, and are covered with glaciers, from
which the water supply is maintained. The hunter will find
elk and Rocky Mountain sheep, and trout fishing in this par-
ticular locality is good.

Flathead County lies in the extreme northwesterly part
of the state and west of the Rocky Mountains, having an
area of 8,700 square miles and a population of 9.375. About
one-seventh of the county has been surveyed and appropriated,
and there are about 4,000,000 acres left unsurveyed. A large
portion of the county is of a hilly and mountainous nature,
besides being covered with dense forests of pine, fir, and
tamarac principally, and the hidden depths teem with the
precious metals. The county contains several fertile vallevs,
the agricultural possibilities of which are marvelous.

The Flathead Valley proper is thirty-five miles in length,

with an average width of eighteen miles, and its altitude is

about 3,000 feet. The Chinook winds from the Pacific reach

this valley with their soothing influences, while the Canadian

82 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

winds are warded off by the Main Divide of the Rocky
Mountains. This makes a very moderate cHmate and precipi-
tates an abundance of moisture. With an extremely rich soil,
created by the wash of tlie mountains for ages, all classes of
crops can be raised. This basin, lying, as it does, between
the Cabinet Mountains on the west, the Purcell Range on
the northwest, and the Main Divide on the east, is climatically
a part of the Pacific Northwest, and is of the same character
as the more southerly end of the great basin known as the
Bitter Root and Missoula valleys.

There are three classes of agricultural land in this valley —
the bench lands, which are sandy, with gravel and clay sub-
soil ; the lower bench lands, having a sandy loam, with clay
sub-soil ; and the bottom lands, having a black loam of mold,
with a clay sub-soil. The very best of hard wheat, equal to
that raised in the Red River Valley, and all the other grains,
timothy, clover, root crops, and large and small fruits, are
raised. The average yield of wheat is claimed to be thirty-
one bushels per acre ; oats, sixty-four bushels ; rye, thirty
bushels ; potatoes, 257 bushels ; and timothy, two and one-
half tons per acre. Root crops grow large and abundantly.
The government weather bureau at Kalispell gives the aver-
age rainfall at 16.62 inches. Fuel, fencing and lumber,
which are great items of expense in prairie countries, are here
obtained for the cutting and hauling. Dairy herds, hogs and
poultry are a source of profit, as the mining camps offer a
steady market.

In the Tobacco Plains country, along the Tobacco River,
about ninety miles northwest of Kalispell, there are several
townships of rolling, grazing, open timbered lands. The val-
leys of the Kootenai, Fisher, Libby, and Yakt rivers afford
fine meadows, open timbered grazing lands, and some farm
lands. This county has a great deal of timber, and twenty
sawmills are now located here, turning trees into lumber. The
output is estimated at 50,000,000 feet per annum ; this is in-
creasing every year. The Great Northern Railway has built
a line to the head of Flathead Lake, where is situated the
largest sawmill in Montana. Here the three-faced railroad
ties are manufactured, which, after being dried, are im-
mersed in a solution at what is commonly called "the tie-
pickling plant." These ties are now being placed in the road-
i)ed of the Great Northern Railway, and the claim is made
that in this cured condition they will last thirty years in all

MONTANA

84 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

weathers, as against ten years in the natural state. Lately a
large lumber plant has been installed on Flathead Lake, with
a capacity of 24,000 feet per day.

The various branches of the Flathead River run into the
lake from different directions. The Kootenai River crosses
the boundary line, flows fifty miles south, then turns, making
an elbow, and flows forty miles westward, where it enters
Idaho. It has many tributary streams, along which consider-
able mining is done. The scenery is remarkably beautiful.
Great measures of lignite coal lie in the northern part of the
county, and adjoining these are the oil fields. In the valley
proper the government land has all been taken up, but in the
outlying districts there is room for many more settlers. There
is a wide territory here, as large as two or three of the east-
ern states, so there is room for those who are willing to go
to the outskirts.

In the winter the thermometer ranges from 10° to 40°,
seldom reaching zero, and in summer from 60° to 85°, seldom
going to 90° The scenery is inexpressibly grand, affording
the lover of nature the opportunity to revel in its glories.
Lake McDonald and Avalanche Basin are easy of access from
Belton station. This lake is a jewel and its glacial attrac-
tions are not only fine but big game in the vicinity is fairly
plentiful. This gorge has been termed by some the "North-
ern Yosemite," and the term is well merited.

Kalispell, the county seat, is a thriving city of 2,520 in-
habitants, situated on Flathead River, five miles north of
Flathead Lake. It is the end of a division of the Great
Northern Railway, and is well built and organized in every
way. It has good hotels, eight churches, graded schools, elec-
tric lights, and is quite metropolitan. Other towns in the
county are Columbia Falls, the seat of the State Soldiers'
Home ; Libby, Troy, Sylvanite, Dayton, Holt, and Tobacco.

Dawson County is a large prairie county, lying south of
Valley County, in the eastern part of the state, and has an
area of 13,194 square miles, with a population of 2,447. The
entire country is adapted to and utilized for stockraising. The
valleys lie lower than the rest of Montana to the west, and
consequently have a higher temperature ; they are well wa-
tered, and. with irrigation, will produce well. Here combined
stockraising and farming is destined to become general in the
future. The Great Northern skirts the northern part of the
county, and the Northern Pacific comes in from the east.

MONTANA

reaches the Yellowstone River at Glendive, and follows that
stream to the southern border.

Glendive, the county seat, a city of 1,200, is very pictur-
esquely situated, and has the Northern Pacific division head-
quarters, roundhouse, etc. It is a city of pastoral pursuits,
but of considerable refinement.

Fergus County. — This county lies directly to the west of
Dawson County, is very nearly in the center of the state, has
an area of 6,762 square miles, and a population, in 1900, of
6,937. It lies largely between the Musselshell and the Mis-

VALLEY OF YELLOWSTONE RIVER, JUST WEST OF GLENDIVE.

souri rivers; its length north and south is no miles, east and
west 125 miles. The county has varied resources, with moun-
tains, bench and valley lands, and all the dilTerent classes of
soils. An eminence rises in the Big Snowy Mountains, from
which many clear and swift running streams radiate in all
directions. The mountains are producing ores of wonder-
ful richness, and there are many mining properties that will
become producers as soon as railway facilities are afforded.
An excellent quality of coal is found at various places.

To-day the traveler who visits Lewiston, in the Judith
Basin, must travel by stage from Great Falls, 120 miles, or

86 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

sixty miles from Harlowton, the end of the Montana Rail-
way. It is believed that this road will be extended at once
to Lewiston. On the extreme western border of the county
are sapphire mines, the stones of which are said to rival those
from the Orient. The sapphires are mined much as is placer
gold. Tiffany & Co., of New York, have so far taken the
entire product. It is known that the sapphire product of the
United States is approximately valued at $400,000, and that
the larger portion of this comes from Fergus County.

The first industry in the county was cattle raising, which,
hdwever, now is secondary to sheep and wool growings in
which it is claimed this county ranks first in the United
States, and that none other closely approaches it in the num-
ber of sheep ranged, the number of sheep and pounds of wool
sold, and the value of the product. In the spring of 1902
there were 685,408 sheep in this county, and it is said that
the increase for that year averaged eighty-five per cent, bring-
ing the total in the fall to upwards of a million. The valuation
placed on those assessed in that spring was $1,560,488. The
number engaged in this industry is probably 300 ; one firm owns
38,000 head ; another, 29,000 ; another, 30,000 ; another, 25,-
000. One stock grower has 9,000 head of cattle, and the ma-
jority of cattle owners have from 4,000 to 8,000 head.

In 1902 there were shorn and shipped to the Great Falls
and Billings wool markets 5,000,000 pounds of wool, which
sold at an average of about fifteen cents per pound, and brought
about $750,000. During the fall months of the same year
large sheep sales were of weekly occurrence, and well in-
formed bankers estimate the amount received from such sales
to have been $600,000 within four months. These two items
bring the revenue from the sheep industry within that year
to $1,350,000, nearly every dollar of which, it is claimed, has
been reinvested within the county. With the extension of
the Montana Railroad to Lewiston there is little doubt of that
city being made a wool market, as the wool is of fine qualitv,
and there are large amounts shorn at other points near by.
A woolen mill is very much desired at this place, and it cer-
tainly should be successful, considering the ample water power
obtainable and the amount of raw product to be purchased.
The cattle raisers have had their measure of prosperity. The
last assessment in the county gave the number of cattle at
48,647 head, valued at $1,120,043. ^^o cattle man knows
within hundreds how many cattle he possesses, however, for

MONTANA

the only means is the record of calves branded and beef sold.
An estimate of the number of cattle shipped in 1902 is 6,000
head, and at an average price of $50 per head the sales
amounted to $300,000. In addition to the shipments, the home
market consumes the value of $30,000.

This county has considerable rainfall, so that general crops
do well. The oat crop averaged in 1902 sixty-five bushels per
acre, and many wheat fields yielded fifty bushels per acre.

A FLOCK OF MONTANA SHEEP.

There is considerable land left in this county ; the .total acre-
age of the Judith district in December, 1902, is given as over
8,000,000 acres, of which over 3,000,000 are surveyed and
unappropriated, and 3,000,000 unsurveyed and unappropri-
ated.

Lewiston, the county seat, is the largest town in the state,
not on a railroad. Its population is 1,200, it has several
churches, good hotels, two newspapers, two banks, a free
library, high school, water-works, electric light plant, and

88 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

flour mills. The combined deposits in the two banks exceed
$1,000,000, and there was hauled to the stores by teams 13,-
000,000 pounds of freight. There are other towns along the
stage route, but of smaller size.

This county, lying between the two great railroads, has not
received its full quota of emigration, and therefore affords
the homeseeker a much better opportunity to accjuire public
lands than some of the covmties bordering the railroads.

Cascade County lies west of Fergus County, has an area
of 3,400 square miles, is largely a mineral county, and boasts
of a population of 25,777, being the second county in the state.
Its surface is made up of mountains, bench lands, and valleys,
with soil about the same as in the other prairie counties pre-
viously mentioned. The Montana Central Railway runs diag-
onally northeast and southwest, following the Missouri River
through the county. Other principal streams are the Sun,
Smith, Belt, and Highwood, all of which reach the Missouri
near Great Falls. The altitude of the Missouri River below
the lowest falls is 2,800 feet, while the altitude of its highest
town is 5,600 feet. From any high point five ranges of moun-
tains can be seen, all more or less heavily timbered with ever-
greens. These mountains afford clear, short rivers, a cool
summer climate, and an ample rainfall on most of the bench
lands. The annual rainfall on the table lands between the
Missouri River and the base of the Belt Mountains is from
eighteen to twenty inches. The United States Weather Bureau
gives the rainfall at Great Falls, from April to August, inclus-
ive, for the past five years, at from 6.75 inches to 11. 19 inches.
The table lands are being farmed very successfully, the aver-
age of the wheat crop being estimated at twenty bushels per
acre, and it is claimed that when the land is summer fallowed
and plowed deep, that the yield is thirty-five bushels and
the grade No. i hard. A single crop of alfalfa is grown here
without irrigation. Horticulture is in an experimental stage.
There are good openings in this county for dairying, and a
good market for all the products.

The resources of the county consist of the great water
power afforded by the Falls of the Missouri, which is of great
importance, and coal, iron, and the precious metals, in addi-
tion to the agricultural products. The Falls include a series of
vertical descents and cascades, aggregating in height 520
feet, which, it is conservatively estimated, will yield 340,000
horse-power at an average low stage of the river. St. An-

JIONTANA

90 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

thony Falls, at Minneapolis, furnish 35,000 horse-power;
Lowell, Mass., ii,ooo, and Paterson, N. J., only 2,150. These
falls are distributed over a distance of ten miles, and are
known individualy as the Rainbow, Black Eagle, Crooked,
and Colters Falls, together with intervening rapids. En-
gineers have harnessed Black Eagle Falls without destroying
its picturesqueness. Above it on the hillside rises, tier upon
tier, the smelter of the Boston & Montana Copper Company ;
a little farther down are the Rainbow Falls, the most beauti-
ful of all the cataracts. The main falls have a descent of
ninety-two feet. One of the most curious sights in this re-
gion is the Giant Spring. This is really a river, 200 feet wide
and five feet deep, bursting out of the earth, spreading out
into a fan-shaped stream and foaming over the rocks. This
volume neither increases nor diminishes winter or summer.
The power utilized from Black Eagle Falls is used in the
treatment of minerals, the making of paper pulp, manufacture
of paper, aluminum, plate glass, flour, etc.

Great Falls is now and always has been a city since the
railroad was built to its site. It is regularly laid out on the
east bank of the river. It has an excellent school system, an
advanced park system, a public library, four banks, two ex-
cellent newspapers — a morning and evening daily — and sev-
eral churches. The development of the Falls began about
twelve years ago, and there are now employed fully 6,000
men in the various industries. The country from every side
is tributary to Great Falls, and the resources are so vast that
a great city is assured. It grew from nothing in 1885 to 14,-
758 in 1900, and to-day probably has a population of 17,000.

Iron ores are closely associated with the coal measures of
this county, and it is said that much interest has been elicited
lately in these deposits, and there is good reason to believe
that Great Falls before long will have an iron and steel plant
added to her industries.

Niehart, in the Belt Mountains, is the most prominent sil-
ver camp in Montana. Belt, Stockett and Sand Coulee are
bituminous coal mining towns, the former being controlled by
the Amalgamated Copper Company, where they have a large
mining and coking plant, from which they ship coal and coke
for use at Anaconda. The output daily is from 100 to 150
tons of coke, and from 1,500 to 2,500 tons of coal.

Lewis and Clark County is a long and comparatively
narrow county bordering the east side of the Main Divide of

MONTANA

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

the Rocky Mountains. Covering, as it does, the peaks of the
range, it is principally mountainous, and in consequence is the
most prolific producer of the precious metals in the state. Its
production of gold, silver, and lead in 1900 was $1,679,796.89.
The gold-bearing belt, according to the 1900 report of the
State Bureau of Agriculture, Labor, and Industry, extends
"from its southeastern corner to the south of the city of Hel-
ena, and thence in a wide semi-circle through Marysville and
Broadwater to the northwest corner of the county. The belt,
or 'mother lode,' as it might be called, is several miles in
width, and everywhere that systematic development has been
undertaken mines of value have resulted." Good paying
mines are on every hand, and in the beds and benches of all

THE BEGINNING OF HELENA.

the creeks that flow through the county placer gold has been
found in quantity, the annual product of these aggregating a
large sum. Several properties are equipped witli modem
mills and cyanide plants, and the owners are getting rich re-
turns for the capital invested. There is no section of the
state which affords the mining investor or the prospector such
excellent opportunities, for this county is but little beyond the
prospecting stage.

The county is well watered by the Missouri River and other
streams running into it from the mountains on the east and
west sides. These streams furnish water for irrigating canals
and water power for electrical purposes.

The county has a large area of farmine land, which is al-
ready occupied by a thrifty class of farmers. The northern
part of the county is mainly taken up by cattle and sheep

MONTAN A

ranches. The agricultural lands can be purchased at a very
reasonable figure from those who have large holdings, and
good profits may be made from smaller and more intensively
cultivated fields.

The Dearborn Canal, the first co-operative irrigating canal
built under the Carey act and the State Arid Land Commis-
sion, is located in this county, about fifty miles north of Hel-
ena. The Dearborn Valley comprises an area of 782 square
miles, 75,000 acres of which are irrigable. The canal system
comprises 100 miles of main waterway, with several hundred

THE OLD AND THE NEW HELENA.

miles of laterals, and the reservoir system covers about 3,000
acres, at an average depth of twenty feet. The main canal
is thirty-eight feet wide and five feet deep, with an average
grade of 3.1 feet to the mile. The side canals are from seven
to sixteen feet in width. The land along this grand artery
is now being sold to actual settlers, not to exceed 160 acres to
one person. The state requires that the land be sold for the
cost of irrigating it, which cost is limited by law to $12.50 per
acre, with twenty per cent additional, which makes the total cost
$15 per acre. It is sold for one-tenth cash down and the bal-
ance in nine equal annual payments, with interest at six per

94 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

cent. The valley soil is a rich, sandy loam, in which the
growth of vegetation is luxuriant. Those having limited
means and desiring homes can accjuire them here, with the
assurance of making farming a success from the start. The
nearest station to the center of operation is Craig, on the
Great Northern Railway. (For United States land laws, Mon-
tana state co-operative laws, and the location of land offices
throughout the Northwest, see addenda of this book.)

The course of the streams and the trend of the mountains
make this county naturally a grand highway from east to
west, which route is traversed by the Northern Pacific Rail-
way, the route of the Great Northern Railway being from
north to south.

Helena, the county seat and capital of the imperial state
of Montana, is located at the junction of the Northern Pacific
and the Great Northern railways. Its population was given in
1900 as 10,772, but is in all probability to-day more than
15,000.

A glamor of romance surrounds this golden city, the center
of one of the richest mineralized quartz mining sections in the
world. Its main street marks the identical spot made famous
by the extraction of millions of dollars in placer gold from
the gravel of what was known as Last Chance Gulch. A
handful of prospectors had wandered from gulch to gulch
during the summer of 1864, panning without success, until
they finally staked their last chance in this gulch before re-
turning to the south. And lo ! the first pan of gravel washed
out twenty dollars ! Claims were immediately staked, the
news rapidly spread, and Helena became a reality. From 200
square feet, on the ground now occupied by the Great North-
ern depot, the owners took out $330,000, and it is said they
did not go down to bedrock. The output of this gulch and
those contiguous was $80,000,000. The mines about Helena
are richly paying their owners, and a multitude of legitimate
opportunities are still awaiting capital and enterprise.

As a place for business Helena offers unusual advantages.
Notwithstanding the fact that the city vi^as twice wiped out
of existence by fire, in 1869 and again in 1872, and suffered
a third time from a disastrous conflagration in 1874, its cit-
izens survived these ordeals, the town was rebuilt on a greatly
improved plan, and Main street, formerly the celebrated gulch
itself, has become a busv thoroughfare.

Powerful dams have been constructed on the nearby Mis-

MONTANA 95

souri River, which furnish electric power for manufacturing
and mining operations in Helena and vicinity. Although
straight manufacturing is in its infancy (there being perhaps
500 men employed in this line), a good many wares are made
and sold to different parts of the state. A million dollar cus-
tom smelter, which runs to its full capacity on ore from dif-
ferent localities, is located in the center of a prolific dry ore
district^ and draws its wet ores from the Coeur d'Alene mines.
With cheap fuel from the north and east it has every prospect
for success. In early times Helena was a distributing center

VIEW OF PLACER ROCK DUMPS IN LAST CHANCE GULCII, IN I9OI.

for goods to miners, and to-day it is a railroad and distribut-
ing center on much broader lines.

The Broadwater Natatorium, at the Hot Springs, is mag-
nificently appointed, and the surrounding grounds are art
landscapes. The bathing pool is 350 feet in length by 150
feet in width, and is supplied with natural hot water at a
temperature of 170°, with the cold water necessarv to temper
it. Fort Harrison, one of the newest and best equipped
United States army posts, and the Montana University are
located here.

The altitude of Helena is 4,256 feet, and the air is very dry
and invigorating. The water supply is the best and the cli-

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

mate indisputabl)' healthy. The city has many handsome
business buildings, attractive residences, the best of hotel ac-
commodations, public institutions, an adequate school system,
three metropolitan daily newspapers, electric lights and other
municipal improvements, and all the advantages that go to
make a modern, up-to-date city.

The state capitol is located in the eastern part of the citv
on a plat of ground donated to the state. The grounds cover
ten acres between Sixth, Lockey, Robert and Montana ave-
nues. The building is in the Grecian Ionic style of architec-
ture, Columbus sandstone being used in its construction. It
is 250 feet in length by 130 feet in depth. From the center
of the building and crowning the whole rises the dome, which

STREET SCENE IN HELENA.

is covered with copper and crowned by a statue of Liberty.
The cost of the capitol and grounds was approximately
$530,000.

Powell County lies west of Lewis and Clark County and
the Main Divide. This county is also a long, narrow tract,
bordering on the mountains, of irregular shape, running in a
northerly and southerly direction. In the early days this
county was a part of Deer Lodge County, and was noted for
its gold placers, which were very numerous and rich. Gold
Creek being the first place where gold was discovered. Its
area, estimated, is approximately 3,200 square miles. Quite

MONTANA

large tracts of arable lands lie in the big Blackfoot and other
valleys. Its elevation being about 4,500 feet, only the hardier
crops are raised, but these have a ready sale at the cities of
Butte and Anaconda, which are good markets for agricultural
products. Therefore these valleys are well settled. There is
abundance of water for irrigation purposes. Deer Lodge is
the county seat, has a population of 1,324, and is the site of
the state penitentiary.

One line of the Northern Pacific Railway crosses the county
from east to west, and another line comes up from the south,
meeting the main line at Garrison and the Little Blackfoot
Valley. These give ample railway transportation in the south-

PIONEER, NEAR WlllClt FIRST GOLD WAS DISCOVERED.

ern part of the county. The former passes through the tunnel
to the west of Helena after ascending the mountains in a
series of long whiplash curves.

Granite County lies west of Powell and Deer Lodge
counties. It is a very broken country, with quite large min-
ing interests, to which the people devote themselves in place
of farming. Phillipsburg is the county seat, and has a popu-
lation of 2,000. A branch of the Northern Pacific Railway
reaches Phillipsburg from Drummond, which gives railway
communication. The pay-roll of the various mining compa-
nies in this county is very large.

MissouL.v County lies south of Flathead County, on the
extreme western border of the state, extending to the top of
the Bitter Root and Coeur d'Alene mountains. It has an

98 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

area of 7,150 square miles and a population of 13,964. The
Rattlesnake, Blackfoot. Bitter Root and several minor streams
go to make up the Missoula River, or Clark's Fork of the
Columbia, which traverses the county its entire length in a
northwesterly direction, affording a wide expanse of agri-
cultural lands and a pathway for the Northern Pacific Rail-
road, as well as a branch line running to Wallace, Idaho. Tlie
mountains stand out in bold relief, and the valleys and rivers
are picturesque, which make the scenery very romantic. The
Flathead Reservation occupies a large and well watered tract
of land, partially in this county. Here the first school was

ON THE BITTER ROOT, NEAR MISSOULA.

established by the Catholic Missionary De Smet. This is now
the Catholic Mission of St. Ignatius.

While grain, hay, and stockraising are carried on to a con-
siderable extent in these valleys, fruit raising, owing to the
moderately tempered climate, is more widely entered into.
Peaches, apples, pears, grapes, and prunes are grown suc-
cessfully. Orcharding in all western Montana has proved a
profitable industry, the fruit being large, sound, and finely
flavored. In consequence lands have advanced very rapidly
in price, and irrigation being required, the private holdings
have sold, on irrigation ditches, from $150 to $200 per acre,
and set out to trees and cared for for a term of years, $300 per
acre. These prices may seem extravagant, but it is claimed

MONTANA 99

the orchards will often make lOO per cent for the owner in a
year after they come into bearing.

There is some very fine stock in this county, notably the
Jersey herd of Dr. Mills at Lola, twelve miles south of Mis-
soula. They are registered full bloods of very high grade.

At Bonner is a large sawmill, the lumber business being
quite extensive, and there are several other sawmills in the
county.

Missoula, the county seat, is located at the mouth of Hell
Gate and Rattlesnake rivers. It has a population of 4,329.
Surrounding this city are manv beautiful views of mountains
and valleys, the very beauty spots of earth. The city has ele-
gant brick blocks, with all modern improvements, good hotels,

MISSOULA.

churches, the state university, and an attractiveness found in
but few places in the west.

Ravalli County is another of those favored localities oc-
cupying a position between the Main Divide and the Bitter
Root mountains. It encompasses the Bitter Root Valley,
which is considered the very paradise of the state. This val-
ley runs in a northerly and southerly direction a distance of
seventy-five miles, and has an average width of about twelve
miles. Mountains of great height, with their forests and
snows, girdle the green fields and orchards of the valley in
such near proximity that the whole seems as one great park.
Along the line of the valley hot springs are found in abun-
dance, mingled with a myriad of lakes, cold as ice and clear
as crystal, and abounding in trout. In this valley at Hamilton

10.0 GUiDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

the late Marcus Daly located his great stock farm, where were
bred and reared the best blooded and fastest horses of the
United States. Since Mr. Daly's death these thoroughbreds
have been sold and the farm is being transformed into one
great orchard, which now has 70,000 fruit bearing trees. The
magnitude of this farm may be better understood when it is
known that its length is sixteen miles, that there are hun-
dreds of miles of drives traversing it, that of this magnifi-
cent domain 50,000 acres are under fence, and 22,000 acres
under cultivation, making it perhaps the largest actually cul-
tivated farm in the world. Everything is well kept and auto-
matic gates open at every turn. The Dal)' summer residence,
the most beautiful country place in the west to-day, is located
here.

Although lumbering is carried on to a large extent and the
mineral resources of the mountains are considerable, the repu-
tation of the valley is based upon its scenery and its fruit.
The climate is temperate, since the valley is well sheltered,
and frequent showers fall during the months of May and
June. Where a gravel sub-soil exists only is irrigation re-
quired, but the conditions are such that each farmer constructs
his own ditch from one of the numerous streams. The reser-
voir of snow in the near mountains furnishes ample water for
all needs. Dairying is very profitable and there is room for
many dairies on an extended scale, with the very best of at-
tendant conditions.

It is estimated that there are 13,500 acres of land in Mon-
tana now devoted to fruit raising, and of this 6,000 acres, or
nearly one-half, are in the Bitter Root Valley.

Large tracts of timber cover the mountain sides, and the
lumber business affords employment to more than 500 men.
At Hamilton the Anaconda Copper Company has a very large
lumber manufacturing and mercantile business. The city has
a population of 2,000, and is quite a summer resort, with an
excellent hotel. Stevensville is the oldest town in western
Montana, and is known as the site of the first wheat field. St.
Mary's Mission, the burial place of Father Ravalli, is in a
good state of preservation.

The Bitter Root branch of the Northern Pacific extends
from Missoula as far up the valley as Grantsdale, and from
there on good mountain roads have been constructed at con-
siderable expense, which gives the entire county good trans-
portation.

MONTANA 101

Meagher County lies south of Cascade and Fergus coun-
ties, has an area of 2,500 square miles and a population of
2,526. This is another one of the great stock producing coun-
ties, having a remarkably diversified area, covering the upper
valleys of the Smith and IMusselshell rivers, between the Big
and Little Belt mountains. There is no finer or more pro-
ductive region in all the state than these valleys, which are
well settled, but, like all the west, have room for more.

The mountains carry much mineral and it is confidently
expected that this county will not only rival other great min-
ing centers, but produce all the iron needed for use by any
extensive steel plant. The Montana Railroad is built to Har-
lowton, but White Sulphur Springs, the county seat and dis-

pwf?*^*^'"'-*^«^.«,^,,.

':^'i'^'{ .

- ,--."■'

,#,

HhHB

ROSS HOLE.

tributing point for the county, is an inland town, being dis-
tant twenty miles by stage from Dorsey.

Broadwater County lies immediately west of Meagher
County, has a population of 2,641, and an area of 975 scjuare
miles. It covers the valley of the Missouri River from the
vicinity of the confluence of its three forks northward to with-
in a few miles of Helena, which is the route traversed by the
Northern Pacific Railway. There are several private water
ditches in this county, affording ample water for farming pur-
poses, and the lands under these ditches are being sold for
from $25 up. There is, however, ample opportunity for more
extended irrigation, which can be accomplished under the
various modes heretofore explained. The crops of this county
are very bountiful and the climate is fairlv mild.

Townsend, the county seat, located on the Northern Pa-
cific Railway, has a population of 900. From the town of

102 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Lombard the Montana Central Railway is built up Canyon
Creek to Harlowton, as before mentioned.

Jefferson County lies west of Broadwater, has an area
of i,6oo square miles and a population of 5,330. The county
is very mountainous and the valleys of the Jefferson, Prickly
Pear and Boulder are very narrow. Hay, grain and vege-
tables are raised, and sold in the local market. It is a first
class mineral county, and Prickly Pear Gulch was one of the
scenes of the early placer diggings. Much of the ores carry
zinc and it is expected a smelter will be built to reduce this
class of ores, which will add very largely to the production.
The prospector or the small farmer will find the conditions
of this county offering him excellent openings. Boulder, the
county seat, has a population of 2,200, and is located on the
Great Northern, which traverses the county between Butte
and Helena, and a branch line of the Northern Pacific ex-
tends to Elkhorn.

Silver Bow County and Butte. — This county lies just
west of the Main Divide of the Rocky Mountains, is the
source of the headwaters of Clark's Fork of the Columbia,
and is therefore a part of the Oregon country rather than
of the Missouri or Mississippi country. Considerable farm-
ing is done, but the mining industry is so tremendous as to
entirely overshadow every other interest. The extensive cop-
per mines of Butte are the wonder of the age, the mines pro-
ducing annually in copper, gold and silver upwards of $50,-
000,000, and in copper alone one-fourth of the output of
the world. Farming, railway operations, commercial inter-
ests, are all in some way connected with these mines. The
Great Northern Railway transports the crude ore from one
group of mines at Butte to the smelter at Great Falls and
brings in return coal and coke from the Anaconda Company's
plant in Cascade County. The Butte, Anaconda & Pacific
Railroad transports the crude ore from another group of
mines in Butte to the great Washoe smelter and refinery at
Anaconda. The Northern Pacific Railroad contributes in
various ways to the prosecution of mining and smelting, and
now runs its Pacific Coast Limited and St. Louis Burlington
Express via Butte, thus dividing with Helena the honors of
having a main line. The Union Pacific, over the Oregon
Short Line, at one time the only railway outlet, contributes
its full share of transportation.. The stores, the smaller man-
ufactories, and all the arteries of trade are either adjuncts to,

MONTANA 103

or in some way connected with, the business of mining, so
that nothing can be said about the county which does not in-
clude Butte and a history of its mines, for every enterprise
centers in that famous hill comprising the towns of Walker-
ville, Centerville, Meaderville, and Butte, all known to be
world as the city of Butte, "The Greatest Copper Camp on
Earth."

The United States Census of 1900 gives the population of
the county as 47,635, and the population of Butte as 30,470,
and since that time the city especially has maintained a rapid
growth.

Butte is very cosmopolitan, for it is a great working bee-
hive of people of varied interests and nationalities. It is sub-
stantially built, largely upon a hillside, and is very striking
in some parts, for business blocks and tailing dumps from
the mines are in close proximity. The cultured man here
touches shoulders with the miner, and the silk tile and the
sombrero walk the streets together, one signalizing the story
of financial success, the other the free life of the mountains.
The arts of Europe are cultivated in palatial homes, while
western manners are assumed upon the street. Money has
been made by millions, as it only could have been made in the
early days, and it is now being diverted into other and more
modernized channels.

The real history of Butte begins with the gold placer dig-
gings of the '50's, when many millions were taken out at
Silver Bow, Rocker, and Butte camps ; when the toilers of
those days lived in tents and brush shanties adjoining their
labors. This may be term^ed the first epoch in its history.

A decline in mining activity began in 1870 and lasted until
1874, when the ores at Butte were found to have a value in
silver^ and a mode of treatment was discovered. From this
time until 1882 gold and silver were the only ores looked for.
In 1880 the camp had reached a population of 3,000. During
this year the Utah & Northern, a narrow gauge railroad, now
the Oregon Short Line, a broad gauge railroad, reached Butte
and aided very materially the progress of the city. This
may be termed the second epoch.

The third and greatest epoch came in 1882. This year
recorded the discovery of the great body of copper ore in the
Anaconda mine. Its effect was revolutionary and it was this
event which finally established the camp on an enduring basis.
Development proceeded on every hand, and each succeeding

104

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

strike added fuel to the fire until the fact had developed that
the hill was a veritable mountain of copper. The camp was
still a great gold and silver producer, but the production of
copper increased two hundred and fifty fold in 1883, and

since that year the march of that metal has been in giant
strides to its present greatness and enthronement as king.

The estimate of the production of all the mines to the pres-
ent is $600,000,000 in value, which places this camp second
only to that of Johannesburg, in Africa, which has an an-
nual production in gold of $100,000,000.

MONTANA

105

The assessed valuation of the taxable property m Butte
to-da_v is very close to $70,000,000, so that, taking the 1900
census as a basis, there would be nearly $2,500 to every man,
woman and child in the city. Handsome residences have been

built during the past few years, an excellent street car sys-
tem has been established, as well as a perfect sewerage sys-
tem ; and water has also been brought over the mountains
at great expense, thus creating sanitary features which are
unequalled by any other city in the west. Excellent hotels
have taken the place of earlier structures and the best of ac-

106 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

commodation is assured to the traveler, while the citizens
of Butte will be found to be progressive and hospitable. The
Columbia Gardens lie just outside the city and are a very
attractive pleasure resort, especially during the summer
months. The city boasts of seven public libraries, thirteen
newspapers — three of which are dailies and as enterprising
as any in the United States — twenty-seven churches, twenty-
one public and eight private schools, a State School of Mines,
three opera houses, and more than one hundred mines and
four smelters in active operation, which annually are pro-
ducing nearly $60,000,000 and distributing to the laboring
population nearly $20,000,000.

"Within an area of 1,000 acres," says Ex-Governor Rick-
ards, "there are being produced, in round numbers, 10,000
tons of ore daily, which, if hauled in one train, would be two
and one-half miles in length, and the annual output would
load a train 800 miles in length, or one reaching from Chi-
cago to Philadelphia. There are consumed in the smelters of
Butte and Anaconda annually 2,000,000 tons of coal ; there
are used annually in the mines 100,000,000 feet of sawed tim-
ber, and 1,500,000,000 feet of sawed lumber, this not taking
into account the round timber used for lagging. It has been
computed that the sawed lumber would build 75,000 seven-
room houses, which would require 540 acres for their sites."

Butte is essentially a dual city — a city above ground, with
business streets and a busy population, and a city below
ground, from where the blasts are heard, tearing apart its
internal structure. Mule cars are wending their way through
the tunnels of the lower city ; at the same time the electric
cars are encircling the city above. The mines have been
worked to a depth of 1,800 to 2,200 feet, and the estimate of
prominent geologists is made that they will hold out for more
than a hundred years.

A singular scene meets the eye of every visitor to the city,
for verdure, either on lawn or tree, is entirely extinct for a
considerable radius, owing entirely to the influence of the
sulphurous fumes from the smelters. The elevation of the
city, at its most prominent business center, is 5,785 feet, but
rises several hundred feet higher to a point at the apex
of the hill. This affords a fresh mountain air, which, usually
in motion, clears away the smoke, so that the health of the
city is remarkably good.

About nine-tenths of the copper producing area in Butte

MONTANA

107

108 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

is covered by the Anaconda Copper Mining Co., the Boston
& Montana Co., and the Butte & Boston Co.^ In each of
these the Amalgamated Copper Co. owns the controlling in-
terest. Of the companies just named, the Anaconda is by
far the largest. The individual producing mines of the
Anaconda group are the Anaconda, Neversweat, St.
Lawrence, Bell, Diamond, High Ore, and Mountain Con-
solidated. The entire production of these mines is trans-
ported over the Butte, Anaconda & Pacific Railway to the
great Washoe smelter and the refinery at Anaconda, and
are there treated. This smelter will be described separately
under the head of Deer Lodge County and Anaconda. The
Butte & Boston Company has four mines in its group and has
its own smelter near the mines. The Boston & Montana
group consists of four mines and. ships its ore to the smelter
at Great Falls for treatment. The Butte Reduction Co.,
known as Senator Clark's Company, owns and works three
mines and operates its own smelter. The Colorado Smelting
and Mining Company operates several mines and smelts the
ore at the mines. The Montana Ore Purchasing Co., con-
trolled by Fritz August Heinze, ranks third in prominence.
The ores are smeltered in Butte and the individual mines are
known as the Rarus, Nipper, Cora, and there is one mine
the title of which is in dispute. There are several independ-
,ent properties, and development work is still going on in
the outskirts of this rich belt.

Butte is the commercial, industrial and financial center of
a great state with rich and manifold resources. Some of
the largest mercantile establishments west of Chicago are
to be found here, and all commodities are sold at moderate
prices. The Hennessy Block, a combined department store
and office building, is the most prominent structure in the
city. The banking capital of the city runs into the millions,
and the Business Mens' Association, which represents all
the leading commercial interests of the city, is wide awake
and progressive. The mining industry is seen here in its ad-
vanced stages, as the most scientific methods are utilized.
Electricity and compressed air are employed, the former be-
ing brought seventy miles. Modern mining machinery has
been installed, and the leading mines are equipped with steel
gallows frames of modern type, displacing the obsolete,
wooden shaft houses. The mines are well regulated and
safelv managed, so that accidents are reduced to the minimum.

MONTANA

109

110 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

The eight hour system is in vogue, and the average wages are
$3.50 per day. The men belong to unions and are thrifty and
contented.

Butte is a great, growing, busy city, unique in many re-
spects, a young and lusty giant of the Rockies, well capable
of doing battle with any industrial interest throughout the
world.

The Amalgamated Copper Company, which owns stock in
the principal mines of Butte, now controls approximately
two-thirds of the copper mining business of the state. It
also controls companies which own great bodies of standing
timber, used largely for mining purposes as well as for man-
ufacturing into lumber. It owns foundries, machine shops,
brick yards and coal mines in Montana and Wyoming, and
the immense new smelting plant at Anaconda, the largest of
its kind in existence, besides the smelters at Great Falls and
Butte. With but few less than 15,000 employes and a yearly
pay roll amounting to nearly $15,000,000, the various com-
panies in which the Amalgamated is interested bear a large
part in the business of the state. They produce nearly fifty
per cent of the copper output of the United States, and ap-
proximately twenty-five per cent of the world's copper, and
stand among the principal producers of silver. The Amal-
gamated interests have been built up with the aid of eastern
capital out of the copper business as it previously existed
in this state, and every effort is being made to continue the
development of these immense resources along the lines in-
stituted by Marcus Daly and other pioneers of the business.
There has already resulted therefrom an era of expansion
and progress in every direction : the mines are being worked
on an enlarged scale : the ore bodies are practically inex-
haustible, and the great smelter at Anaconda, which cost
more than $6,000,000, is in successful operation, and is un-
equalled.

There is everywhere confidence in the Butte mines, the
highest wages are paid to the workers, and good feeling and
co-operation between labor and capital is perhaps as well
exhibited there as anywhere in the country on a scale of
this magnitude. The farmers, the stock raisers, the business
men, in fact, the whole state, derive benefit from the opera-
tions of this great company, which operations are being rap-
idly supplemented by other undertakings. Eastern capital,
in conjunction with western enterprise and courage, is com-

MONTANA

111

112 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

billing not only to open mines, but to build woolen factories,
water plants, electric power installations and other institu-
tions for the benefit of advancing civilization. The wonder-
ful development taking place in the state of Montana is an
iastance of the east and the west working together in har-
mony, combining intellect and money, not only for profit,
but for the benefit of the workmen, who in all the different
lines of employment are happily situated. Progress leads
liberality by the hand and has not time nor inclination to
stop to grind the souls of the poor. To be among the fore-
most in the advancing army of commerce and industry seems
to be the laudable ambition of the Amalgamated Company.

Deer Lodge County and Anaconda. — Deer Lodge County
lies west of Silver Bow County, has an estimated population
of 13,000, most of which is contained in the city of Ana-
conda. Farming and stock raising is practiced in the county
to a considerable extent, but as in Silver Bow County, these
interests are entirely subsidiary to the mining interests, and
the county is closely identified with the mines at Butte.

Near the citv of Anaconda are located the great Washoe
smelter and Anaconda refinery. The accompanying views will
give a fair idea of this immense plant, which cost upwards of
$6,000,000 and was nearly two years in building. It con-
sists virtually of five separate departments, each occupying
its own building. Not only is it the greatest- enterprise of
its kind in Montana, but it certainly is of all the West, and
perhaps of all the world. When the fact is known that 10,-
000 car loads of material were used in its construction, some
idea of its magnitude can be gained. Twenty million feet
of lumber were used in the buildings, and 5,000,000 more in
the seven miles of flume, constructed from the three lakes
at the head of Warm Springs Creek, high up in the moun-
tains, to give the plant a water supply. This flume delivers
50,000 gallons of water a minute, supplying the city of An-
aconda as well as the smelter. The site of the smelter covers
300 acres of ground, of which seven acres are covered by
the concentrator alone. The works have a capacity for treat-
ing 6,000 tons of ore per day, and give employment reg-
ularlv to 1,500 men. Two immense power houses furnish
steam, compressed air and electricity to aid the mechanical
operation.

Smelting and Refining Process. — The ore is first sam-
pled in the sampling mill at the concentrator, and is then as-

MONTANA

113

114 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

sayed to ascertain the exact value of each lot in copper, silver
and gold contents. The smelting ore goes direct to the blast
furnaces, while the concentrating ore is given to the great
concentrator plant, 600 feet long and 400 feet wide, with
about 600 jigs, or concentrating machines, the degree of con-
centration being from forty to fifty per cent. The coarser
concentrates go to the blast furnaces, and the finer to the
calcining furnaces or roasters. The roasting plant consists
of fifty-six great furnaces, which do their work automati-
cally, burning off much of the sulphurous element in the
concentrates, to prepare them for the reverberatory furnaces.
The concentrating plant is well up on the hill, the roasters
are below it and the reverberatories and blast furnaces still
farther down, with the converters lowest of all. All the
plants are connected by a complete system of tramways, with
motors operated by compressed air, and the waste of each
plant, the tailings, slag and ashes, is carried down the hill
by gravity in launders or flumes, supplied with water from
the main flume, brought seven miles to reach a point on the
hill above any of the works. Such of the waters passed
through the concentrator as may still contain metaliferous
values held in suspension, are directed by launders into three
large settling ponds, where the suspended matter is grad-
ually precipitated, and after a time the water is drawn off
and the mud or slum, as it is technically called, gathered up
and made into briquettes, to be treated at the blast furnaces.
When the coarse smelting ore and the coarse concentrates
reach the blast furnaces, and the finely concentrated and cal-
cined ore reaches the reverberatories, the smelting process
proper may be said to begin. There are fourten reverbera-
tories, each with a daily capacity of producing 175 tons of
copper matte, and seven blast furnaces which handle the re-
mainder of the ore treated. In these furnace plants, and in
the converting plant, which has nine Bessemer converters, may
be witnessed the daily conflict of fire and steam, compressed
air and electricity, aided by the genius, experience and labor
of man, to reduce the refractory products of nature to his
daily needs. The furnaces are charged directly from the
tram cars with ore, fluxes and fuel, and every appliance is
provided to aid the toilers in their hot work. Still, great
care and skill are required in handling hot copper. When a
furnace is tapped, the work is strenuous and exciting, arid
knowledge and courage are both essential. At last the hot

MONTANA

115

116 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

metal springs from its confinement and falls into the ladle
cars waiting to carry it to the converters. Here, still hot, it
is blown, or aerated and refined, to remove the last vestige of
sulphur, and then it is poured into great ladles which are
caught up by sixty-ton traveling cranes, and emptied into
the casting furnaces. These furnaces cast the copper into
anode cakes for the electrolytic refinery.

Up to this point the silver and gold of the ores have
followed along with the copper. As their value amounts to
several millions a year, they must be saved. So the anode
cakes are carried by railroad to the refinery, across the Warm
Springs Valley, and hung into electrolytic baths in lead-lined
tanks having a capacity of 10,000,000 pounds or more of
product monthly. This process makes pure cathode copper,
arid deposits the silver and gold contents of the anode cakes in
the form of mud at the bottom of the tank. A simple pro-
cess of furnace refining makes this mud into bullion bars of
standard fineness.

Thus are the commercial products of copper, silver and
gold wrested from the refractory sulphide ores of Butte hill
in these wonderful works instituted by the courage of modern
enterprise. Such works mark the epoch in which we live,
and show the progress made in the application of human
knowledge — the adjustment of inanimate things — to the needs
of humanity.

The lime rock for fluxing is obtained in the hills near the
smelter, and fire-brick and silica-brick, which have no equal,
are made near the plant. The coal, coke and ore are brought
from Butte by giant locomotives in heavy train loads of
sixtv or sevent)' cars, each car having fifty tons capacity,
and thus the cost of transportation is reduced to a mere
switching charge. In addition to the smelting plant, a very
complete plant in all its details exists for the manufacture
of mining and smelting machinery. Besides its own con-
struction work, considerable work is done for mines and
smelters throughout the Northwest, British Columbia and
Alaska.

The city of Anaconda is adjacent to the great smelter and
is connected with it by rail and electric lines. In conse-
quence of its proxmity, it may look forward to many years
of prosperity. It is situated in the Warm Springs Valley
and enjoys a very pleasant location, girdled by hills, in the
Main Divide of the Rocky Mountains. It boasts of a free

MONTANA

117

118 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

library, the leading daily newspaper, and the best appointed
hotel in the state, and it enjoys all the conveniences of a well
governed city. The hotel is newly remodeled and up to
date in all respects, the appointments, fare, and service being
exceptionally and surprisingly good for one found in the
very heart of the Rocky Mountains.

The city is in direct and almost hourly touch with Butte,
which is only twenty-eight miles distant. The Northern Pa-
cific line passes through the county from north to south, which,
with the terminus of the Oregon Short Line at Silver Bow,
and the Great Northern terminus at Butte, all connected with
Anaconda by the Butte, Anaconda & Pacific Railway, afford
an outlet in every direction.

Custer County lies in the extreme southeasterly part of
the state. It was named for General Custer, who was mas-
sacred with his command on the Little Big Horn, now in
Rosebud County, but formerly a part of Custer County. It
has an immense area, reaching approximately 14,000 square
miles, being larger than several of the eastern states. It is
a prairie county in its entiretv, the climate and natural con-
ditions making it a stock and wool growing section. The
bad lands occupy the extreme southeastern part, but there
are many good farms in the river valley. It is classed among
the semi-arid counties and requires irrigation, which has been
attempted so far in a moderate way with the Tongue River
ditch. Lands outside the ditch can be bought to-day for
$2.50 per acre, and those within the ditch section at $25
per acre, with water. The crops mainly raised are wheat
and alfalfa. The prices charged for water are $2 per acre for
cultivated land, $1.50 for hay land, $1 per acre for new land.
This, of course, annually.

Miles City, the county seat, is a growing town of 2,000 pop-
ulation, situated on the bank of the Yellowstone River at
the mouth of the Tongue River, and on the Northern Pacific
Railway. It has good, paved streets, an electric light plant,
and other modern improvements. The State Reform School
is located here. Immense beds of lignite coal, which the set-
tlers use to good advantage, underlie the entire county. The
Northern Pacific Railway follows the valley of the Yellow-
stone River through the northwest part of the county.

Rosebud County was carved out of Custer County and has
an area of about 12,000 square miles. It has the general
features of Custer County, except that it is more moun-

MONTANA

119

120 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

tainous and a large portion of the southern part of the
county is covered by the Northern Cheyenne Indian Reser-
vation.

Forsythe is the county seat, is located on the Yellowstone
River and on the Northern Pacific Railway, which follows
the valley of the Yellowstone from east to west. It is the
center of a generally better country than that to the east.
The county is well watered but semi-arid.

Yellowstone County lies immediately west of Rosebud
County, covers the valley of the Yellowstone River for a
hundred miles, and extends from the Big Horn River on
the southeast to the Musselshell River and Fergus Coiinty
on the north. It is a fine agricultural county and is semi-
arid, but the waters of the Yellowstone have been utilized
in irrigating with great success. It has immense stock inter-
ests, which make it a very wealthy county. In 1902 Billings,
the county seat, claims to have purchased more wool than any
other place in the United States. The climate is fairly mod-
erate in winter and quite warm in summer as compared with
the western part of the state, owing to the low altitude, which
is about 3,000 feet.

Billings is situated on the Yellowstone River and the North-
ern Pacific Railway, which still follows the Yellowstone Val-
ley in its course to the west. The city is strong commer-
cially and has grown steadily since its birth. It has a pop-
ulation of about 8,000, and all the improvements which would
ordinarily go with a city of 25,000 inhabitants, including
electric lights, sewer system, etc. A number of fine residences
are being built, one in particular, which, in its appointments
and decorations, classes with anything in the state. The op-
portunities for settlement here are good, but the public lands
are all taken up, except in the upper ranges, which cannot
be irrigated. Lands along the ditches can be purchased at
a reasonable price.

Carbon County lies south of Yellowstone and between
the Yellowstone River and Wyoming. It has an area of
3,000 square miles, and a population of 7.533, of which a
very large portion are miners. The combined resources are
mining, stock raising and farming, and although this is a
small count^•, for the man of small means it is one of the
very best in the state. The streams are quite rapid, so that
numerous small ditches have been made to water the bench
lands.

MONTANA

121

122 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Nearly the entire county is underlaid with bituminous
coal, which is shipped for smelter and domestic purposes to
a considerable distance. Many men are employed in the mines
at Red Lodge, at Carbonado, at Bridger, and at Gebo, so that
there is a large demand for agricultural products. At Car-
bonado the Anaconda Copper Mining Co. is erecting a large
coal mining plant. Several small companies are operating col-
lieries, and it is predicted that soon fully 10,000 men will be
working in these mines. Silver and gold are found in the Wood
River district, as well as several of the other districts. The
county seat is Red Lodge, but there are other good places, like
Gebo, which are destined to become business cities. The North-
ern Pacific operates a branch line to Red Lodge and to Bridger.

Sweet Grass County lies west of Yellowstone and Carbon
counties, has an area of about 3,000 scjuare miles, and a pop-
ulation of 3,086. This is a rich county, is well settled, and
well irrigated, especially along the Yellowstone River and
the valley of the Sweet Grass River, which runs into the
Yellowstone from the north. Two canals are now being built,
under the arid land law. A part of the county was settled
by Hollanders, who have good farms and a cheese factory,
and are very prosperous. This is one of the best parts of
Montana.

Big Timber, the county seat, is located on the Yellow-
stone River and the Northern Pacific Railway, which trav-
erses the county east and west, following the valley of the
Yellowstone. It is a substantially built town, with a large
volume of business, and has much pretensions to becoming
a great wool market, having shipped 3,000,000 pounds of wool
in 1900. A woolen mill is now being built to utilize this
product. A flouring mill and a creamery are a part of the
industries. Good mines are located in the Crazy Mountains,
which, with other industries, will no doubt give Big Timber
a brilliant future.

Park County lies west of Sweet Grass and borders the
state of Wyoming on the south. It has a population of 7,341,
and is named Park County since a small strip of the Yellow-
stone National Park covers the southern part of the county.
Like most Montana counties, the resources consist of stock
raising, farming and mining. The waters of the Yellowstone
Valley traverse the countv from the Park regions to the Sweet
Grass country, giving the clearest and purest water that can
be desired. The mountains are comparatively wild and the

MONTANA

123

TWELVE OF FORTY-EIGHT AUTOMATIC ROASTING FL'RNACES, ANACONDA, MONTANA.

124 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

vallej's narrow. Mining is assuming considerable propor-
tions, especially in the southeastern part, some good strikes
being reported, while coal mining and the manufacture of coke
is also increasing. The Northern Pacific crosses the county
from east to west and the road to the Yellowstone Park from
Livingston runs as far as Gardiner.

Livingston, the county seat, is located on the Yellowstone
River and the Northern Pacific Railway, whose shops here have
lately been doubled in size. This is a growing and substantial
town. Population in 1900, 2,778.

Gallatin County lies west of Park County and the Yel-
lowstone Park. The Gallatin River traverses the county from
north to south and yields water for irrigation purposes, as do
manv others of the smaller streams. The greatest success is
attained in the growth of all kinds of crops, especially alfalfa,
and fruits. There are several flourishing villages in the
county. Bozeman, the county seat, has a population of
5,000, two banks, two flour mills, churches, clubs, the State
Agricultural College and station. The Northern Pacific en-
ters the count)' from the east and follows the Gallatin and
Missouri River valleys through Broadwater County.

Mauison County borders on the state of Idaho, lies imme-
diately west of Gallatin, has an area of 4,250 square miles,
and a population of 7.695. It is the most southerly county
of the state, covering the valleys of the Ruby, Madison, Wil-
low and Jefferson rivers. Its resources are the same as most
Montana counties. There is considerable rainfall in this
county, so that little irrigation is required. Irrigated farm
lands can be procured for from $8 to $35 per acre. This is
cheaper than the same quality of lands can be had for in
other parts of the state.

Virginia City, the county seat, was the capital of Mon-
tana territory, and the scene of early placer diggings, as was
also Alder Gulch. Population in 1900, 578. Virginia City was
the scene of great excitement and high prices. One doUar
was paid for letters being carried to or from Salt Lake City ;
lumber brought $250 per thousand feet ; potatoes sold for $6
per bushel, and wheat for $4 per bushel ; flour averaged $30
per hundred pounds and in the camps reached $110 in gold
in May, 1865, when paper money was worth but forty cents
on the dollar.

With its large area of agricultural land and vast mineral

MONTANA

125

GRAND CANYON AND LOWER FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE.

126

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

resources Madison is one of the most promising counties in
tlie state.

Beaver Head County lies west of Madison County and
adjoins the Idaho line. Farming and stock raising are very
profitable in these valleys, the soil being good, and not being
far distant from Butte an excellent market is afiforded. The
Union Pacific traverses the county north and south, and
Dillon, a lively town on this road and the Beaver Head River,
is the county seat. Population in 1900, 1,530.

The Yellowstone National Park is almost entirely located
in northwestern Wyoming, but the major part of the tourists

AN IRRIGATED BARLEY FARM IN GALLATIN VALLEY.

who visit it do so by way of Livingston. The area of this
Park is 3,412 square miles. It consists of an elevated volcanic
plateau, hemmed in by mountains whose peaks rise to a height
of from 10,000 to 13,000 feet, the general level of the plateau
being from 7,000 to 8,000 feet. The Main Divide of the Rocky
Mountains crosses the Park in a circuitous line, its peaks be-
ing mostlv extinct volcanoes. Electric Peak, the highest of
the volcanoes, has an elevation of 11,155 feet.

The Park is filled with natural wonders, such as hot and
cold springs, both mammoth and small, of all apparent colors
and qualities, cliffs of natural glass, flowing and spouting
geysers, beautiful lakes, deep canyons and great falls. Per-

MONTANA

127

haps of all these wonders, the beauties of Yellowstone Lake,
"Old Faithful" geyser. Beryl Springs, the Paint Pots, and the
Terrace may be enumerated as the most interesting, all of
which are eclipsed in grandeur by the Grand Canyon and
falls of the Yellowstone. The best of writers have admitted
that their descriptive faculties were rendered powerless bv
the awe inspired by this vast but resplendent chasm.

EMIGRANT PEAK. NEAR YELLOWSTONE PARK.

The tourist season begins June i and ends September i ot
each year. The Park is sixty-two miles long and fifty-four
miles wide, and the trip from Livingston to encompass it is
made in five and a half days. The first day takes the traveler
from Livingston to Gardiner, fifty-one miles by rail, and then
seven miles by stage to the mammoth hot springs ; the sec-
ond day from Mammoth Hot Springs to Lower Geyser Basin,

128 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

by stage fort)' miles ; the third day from Lower Geyser Basin
to Upper Geyser Basin and return, by stage eighteen miles;
the fourth day from Lower Geyser Basin to Yellowstone Lake
hotel, by stage forty-seven miles ; the fifth day from Yellow-
stone Lake hotel to Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, by
stage seventeen miles ; the sixth day, Grand Canyon to
Cinnabar, thirty-nine miles by stage, and to Livingston, fifty-
one miles by rail, making a total of 270 miles, of which 168
are made by stage coach. The stage coaches are easy riding
and seat from six to ten passengers each, and the hotels in
the Park are comfortable, steam heated and electric lighted,
each accommodating from 150 to 250 guests.

IDAHO.

The name Idaho is an Indian name and signifies "Gem of the
Mountains." The state lies west of the Rocky Mountains, be-
ing a part of the Pacific North-
west. Its eastern boundary is
formed by* the Coeur d'Alene
and Bitter Root mountains and
the State of Wyoming. Ne-
vada and Utah bound it on the
south, from which point the
state extends 485 miles to the
..^^^^ ,_ Canadian line. Oregon and

j jjg 'M^^Hb^-^^a Washington lie to the west, the

canyon of the Snake River
marking the boundary line for
more than a third of the dis-
tance. The area of the state
is 84,800 square miles, of which
510 square miles are water.

Early History. — The terri-
tory now comprised in the state
of Idaho originally formed a part of the Oregon territory. The
Lewis and Clark expedition across the state, following largely
the Clearwater River, is referred to in the general historical
matter. The Coeur d'Alene country was settled about 1842
by the Jesuit father, De Smet, who founded a line of missions
throughout the Rocky Mountain country, the most prosperous of
which was probabl}- the one near Coeur d'Alene Lake. During

NEZ PERCES OF THE PRESENT DAY.

IDAHO

129

CHIEF JOSEPH, OF THE NEZ PERCES, A GREAT INDIAN GENERAL.

Lee Moorliouse, Am. Photo. Pendleton, Ore.

130 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

the gold excitement of 1852 various prospectors came into the
state, and in 1854 Fort Lemhi was erected on the Salmon River,
among the Nez Perces, by a colony of Mormons, who were
finally driven back to Salt Lake ; a French Canadian settle-
ment was also established on the St. Mary's River.

Owing to the Civil war and the fame of the Salmon River
mines, a tide of emigration swept westward in 1862-3. In
1863 Congress constituted the territory of Idaho, which had
been successively a part of Oregon, Utah and Washington ;
in 1864 a part of it was set aside as Montana, and in 1868 an-
other part as Wyoming. In 1890, in its present size and form,
it was admitted as the forty-third state of the Union, or thir-
tieth in the order of admission. In 1863, as a territory, it had
four organized counties and ten mining towns. From 1865-8
and from 1874-8 the country was much disturbed by Indian
wars. After this the development of the natural resources of
the state went steadily forward, mining and agriculture making
rapid advances. The Oregon Short Line built its road north-
ward, which afiforded better mtans of transportation, and irri-
gation was practiced with success. Boise was made the capi-
tal of the territory and of the state, and will remain so by spe-
cial act until 1910, when the cjuestion of a transfer to another
city will be submitted to the people. In this state the practice of
polygamy is made a bar to citizenship.

Topography. — The surface of Idaho is exceedingly diversi-
fied. The state is a wedge-shaped plateau, the chief features
of which are the drainage systems of the Snake and Columbia
rivers, with an extensive arid plain along the banks of the
former river in the southern part of the state. The country
north of this plain is exceedingly mountainous. The Rocky,
Bitter Root, Coeur d'Alene and Cabinet mountains extend
along the northeastern border of the state, and in Ihe center
are the Clearwater, Salmon River and Saw Tooth ranges. In
the extreme southeast are the Snake River, Goose Creek and
Bear River ranges, and in the southwest the Owyhee. The
Salmon River Mountains extend along the river of the same
name and reach a height of 12,000 feet, their summits being
rugged and mostly covered with snow. The surface of Idaho
has an average elevation of 4,700 feet, rising from an altitude
of 647 feet at Lewiston to 12,078 feet in Hyndman Peak in
Blaine County.

Between the mountain ranges are many valleys watered by
numerous streams, some being of considerable size. The larg-

IDAHO

131

132 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

est river in the state is the Snake River, which has its source in
Yellowstone Park. It flows across the entire state in a broad
curve, and, with the exception of a small corner in the south-
eastern part of the state, and in the Panhandle country, drains
the whole state. This river has a number of falls and rapids,
the more notable of which are the American, Twin, Salmon
and Shoshone Falls, the latter having a descent of 210 feet.
The basaltic clifl^s, which flank the river, and the descending
large volume of water make a sublime spectacle. On the west
side of the state the river flows through a deep canyon, one of
the most remarkable in the United States, in some places ex-
ceeding the Grand Canyon of Colorado in depth. The main
tributaries on the east are the Salmon, which receives the
larger part of the drainage in the central part of the state ;
the Wood, Boise, Payette, and Weiser, and in the southwest
the Bruneau and Owyhee rivers. The Clearwater and Palouse
rivers come into the Snake from the east and the northern
part of the state, and the waters of the Panhandle drain to the
Columbia through the Spokane River, which rises in the Bitter
Root range, Clark's Fork and the Kootenai. Among the lakes
of the state three are worthy of especial notice : The Pend
d'Oreille, an expansion of Clark's Fork, thirty-five miles long
and eight miles wide ; the Coeur d'Alene, twenty miles long,
and the Lower Priest, eighteen miles long and five miles in
width, all of which are in the Panhandle country.

Geologically considered, the southern part of Idaho is a
great lava plain, similar to the main Columbia Plateau of east-
ern Washington and Oregon, The soil throughout this region,
whenever subjected to water, produces bountifully. The moun-
tain ranges of this portion of the state are mainly of silurian
and carboniferous ages. Numerous fossils have been found,
including the remains of mastodons, elephants, and alligators
and other saurians. In northern Idaho the mountains are
chiefly eozoic. In this part of the state the elevated table
lands produce without irrigation.

The mountains of the northern part of the state, including
the upper portion of the Boise, Payette and Weiser valleys,
are heavily covered with forests of white and yellow pine,
larch and fir. The valleys and sheltered basins are covered
with grasses, which afford excellent pasturage. The southern
counties, or those of the Snake River plains, have a growth of
sage-brush, and the country south and east of that river is
covered with grass and sage-brush and a scattering growth of

IDAHO

133

HYDRAULIC MINING.

134 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

evergreens on the mountains. The timber resources of Idaho
are almost unhmited. No state in the Union contains more
extensive timber behs, though the timber m size and height is
not so large as the forests west of the Cascade Mountains.
These timber belts lie in the mountain districts in the more
northerly part of the state, and are estimated to comprise
35,000 square miles, or forty-two per cent of the total area of
the state. Lumbering has become an industry of importance,
and with the extension of railway facilities into the mountains
will attain large proportions. Four-fifths of the Bitter Root
forest reserve and nearly all of the Priest River reserve lie in
Idaho. The estimated stand is 450,000,000 feet, the greater
part being yellow pine, with a quantity of red fir, and in the
marshy districts dense masses of cedar.

Climate. — The climate of Idaho varies with the altitude, ths
same as in eastern Washington and Oregon, the air being dry
and highly rarefied. In the mountainous districts the winters
are extremely cold and there are heavy snowfalls, but on the
plains the winters are quite moderate, while in the valleys the
temperature is mild and the snowfalls light. The greatest
rainfall occurs in the mountain regions of the north, the pre-
cipitation in the lower valleys and on the plains being in gen-
eral so light as to make irrigation necessary to the growing of
crops. The average annual precipitation for a term of years
for the entire state has been 17.52 inches, but the range between
the extremes in the various portions of the state is very great.
Oakley, in Cassia County, one of the southern tiers of coun-
ties, has a precipitation of 8.03 inches, while the rainfall at
Murray, in the extreme northern part of the state, is 46.88
inches. The annual precipitation of rain and snow at Lewis-
ton is about twenty-four inches and the mean annual rainfall
at Boise is 30.1 inches. The mean annual temperature at
Boise is 50.9°, the range being from — 28° to 107°. The cli-
mate is very healtliy, perhaps no state in the Union shovv^ing
so low a death rate.

Resources. — The leading industries of the state are min-
ing, lumbering, and agriculture. The mineral products con-
stitute the chief source of wealth. Mining is, however, in its
infancy, owing to the lack of transportation in the mountains,
which is needed very badly to bring coal to the camps and
transport the ore to the smelters. This will no doubt be reme-
died in time, when electricity will be transmitted from Twin,
Shoshone ot other falls. Gold was first discovered on the

IDAHO

135

136 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Clearwater River at Orofino Creek in i860. In 1862, in the
Idaho Basin, placers were discovered which yielded in 150
square miles more than $50,000,000. In 1900 Idaho ranked
fourth in the order of silver producing states, the output for
the year being $8,312,372, coinage value, and $1,724,700 in
gold. The Coeur d'Alene district of this state vields one-fourth
of the lead produced in the entire United States and it is the
chief source of supply for the smelters of Colorado, Montana
and Washington. There are valuable copper deposits in the
Seven Devils district, in Washington and Idaho counties.
Cinnabar has been discovered, carrying a high per cent in
quicksilver. Throughout the mineral regions there yet re-
main vast stretches of country practically unexplored, and new
and important discoveries are expected each year. The latest
finds are at Buffalo Hump, Rocky Bar, Atlanta and Skelteh
Creek, but the sensational discovery was at Thunder Mountain
in 1901. This mountain stands near the corner of Idaho,
Lemhi and Custer Counties, is nearly encircled by the Salmon
River, and is expected to become a great camp. There are six
routes now laid out, the principal of which are from Red Rock,
Mont., Black Foot, Shoshone, Lewiston, Boise and Stites.

The agricultural resources are great in almost all parts of
the state. It is estimated that there are 16,000,000 acres of
agricultural lands, large areas of which require irrigation. The
state, as well as private enterprise, has given unusual attention
to the irrigation problem, and great advancement has been
made. The upper valley of the Snake River, from Maryville
Falls has many canals, the upper Snake River plains being well
adapted to irrigation. Other ditches are vmder advisement on
a large scale, while still others have been constructed at Moun-
tain Home, Glens Ferry, and in the Boise, Payette, and Weiser
valleys. In the short period of ten years irrigation has added
to the improved area thirty-eight per cent, and a farm wealth
of $12,000,000.

North of the Clearwater River the country does not need
irrigation, Latah County producing wheat equal to any section
in Washington. The important fruit belts are along the im-
mediate Snake, Boise and other valleys, and at Lewiston,
farther north. The southeastern part of the state is better
adapted to diversified farming — grains, grasses, vegetables and
alfalfa yielding enormously.

The inaccessibility of Idaho has tended to retard its devel-
opment. There being no navigable rivers in the state, it is

IDAHO

137

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138 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

evident that the transportation problem must be solved by the
building of railroads. The construction of the Oregon Short
Line northerly through the eastern portion of the state and
west through the southern part encouraged very generally
the existing industries. The Northern Pacific and the Great
Northern cross the Panhandle in the extreme north, the former
reaching Lewiston and Idaho County. The Oregon Railroad
& Navigation Co. also crosses the Panhandle, reaching the
Coeur d'Alene mines and the Palouse country, and is now build-
ing up the Snake River to Lewiston. J\Iuch has been said about
a connection with the Northern Pacific via Lolo Pass and the
Clearwater to Lewiston. The conditions seem to be more fav-
orable to new developments in the immediate future.

There are many prosperous towns in the interior of the
state, far from railway communication, which are the centers
of the cowboy, ranchman and miner, and are often the seat of
vast fortunes acquired from the ranging of sheep and cattle.
The stage coach is in evidence in all parts of the state.

COUNTIES.

Lemhi and Custer Counties. — It may be said that all
that part of the state lying south of the Salmon River in its
course to the west is arid, and requires irrigation. This
would include with these counties the southern part of Idaho
County. The south, or main fork, of the Salmon River heads
in the heart of the Saw Tooth Mountains, and runs northerly
for a distance of 200 miles to Shoup, via Salmon City. The
east fork and the Pahsimero head in the Lost River Mountains
and empt}' into the main Salmon above Salmon Cit}'. The
Lemhi heads in the Rocky Mountains and enters at Salmon
City. This drainage area is an empire in extent and is won-
derfully rich in agriculture, stockraising, timber and mineral
resources. The principal industry is mining, but these coun-
ties are fast taking a prominent place in the state in agriculture
and stockraising. The water supply is ample. Most of the
irrigated lands are in Custer and Lemhi Counties, which lie at
an elevation of from 4,000 to 6,000 feet. The principal devel-
opment is in Custer County, in the vicinity of Challis. Here
several ditches have been taken out, owned mostly by indi-
viduals. The developments on the Pahsimero River are chiefly
in the vicinity of Morse and Goldberg. There is a large amount
of good land in this valley that can be developed. Some of the

IDAHO

139

140 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

irrigated lands at the head of Lost River are in Custer County.
As the Lemhi ilows deep below the main body of agricultural
land the latter is watered by creeks coming in from either side.
There are many opportunities here for those with small means
to become prosperous. The Oregon Short Line branch road,
now in operation from Blackfoot to Mackey, in Custer County,
with the proposed extension to Salmon City, will afford ade-
quate transportation for this rich region.

Challis is the county seat of Custer County, and Salmon
City of Lemhi County, both being thriving towns with fine bus-
iness blocks, water systems and lighting plants.

The Snake River \'alley. — With the exception of an area
of 4,000 square miles, in the southeast part of the state, which
is drained irfto the Salt Lake Basin, all the arid land of Idaho
lies within the drainage of the Snake River, and this river and
its tributaries must furnish water for all this region, two-thirds
of which will be supplied direct from the Snake River itself.

A great sheet of lava extends from one side of the valley to
the other and throughout its entire length. In some places its
thickness is ten feet, while near the central portion 800 feet is
exposed. In most places its surface has been covered to a great
depth by an alluvial deposit of silt and gravel brought down
from the neighboring mountains. This in turn is covered by
soil of volcanic origin, which, when properly irrigated, pos-
sesses wonderful fertility. In the great central portion ridges
and great beds of lava are exposed on the surface, but for the
most part a covering of soil exists which sustains a heavy
growth of sage-brush and the entire region is used as a winter
range for sheep and cattle. The upper end of this valley lies
at an elevation of 5,500 feet, while the lower and western end
(Washington County) has an elevation of about 2,200 feet. It
is from seventy-five to 100 miles in width between the foot-
hills of the opposite mountain ranges. The surface of the val-
ley varies from flat bottom land, sloping with the river, to high
plateaus, falling back, terrace above terrace, to the foothills
on either side. Henry's Fork, in the eastern part of Fremont
County, flows on the top of a lava sheet to a point several
miles southwest of St. Anthony to a point on the mam river at
Idaho Falls. The flow is on top of an alluvial deposit which
rests on the lava. From Idaho Falls to a point ten miles be-
low, the river flows on top of the lava, but from this point to
American Falls the lava is covered by an alluvial deposit con-
sisting: chieflv of gravel. At American Falls the river descends

IDAHO

141

AN IRRIGATING VIADUCT.

142 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

about fifty feet, the Oregon Short Line crossing at this point,
the bridge being right over the faUs. The river now flows be-
tween high benches for a distance of fort)' miles ; westward to
the Cedars it flows between high lava ridges that rise rapidly
a short distance back from the stream. Below the Cedars these
ridges are covered to a great depth with a fine volcanic soil.
From the Cedars to the mouth of Clover Creek, a distance
of eighty miles, the river is in most places a raging torrent,
having an average fall of about twenty feet to the mile and
cutting its channel deep in the lava sheet many hundred feet
below the level of the valley. In this stretch of the river
several magnificent falls occur, the most noted being the great
Shoshone Falls (210 feet) and Twin Falls (180 feet), while
at intervals other vertical leaps are made, in many cases from
twenty to fifty feet, all suggesting, in addition to the natural
grandeur of their surroundings, the wonderful electrical possi-
bilities which can be utilized in the industrial development of
the state.

From the mouth of Clover Creek to the state line, a distance
of about 140 miles, the river flows on top of an alluvial de-
posit, which forms little valleys in the canyon from 400 to 1,000
feet below the level of the great plains on either side. Through-
out this section it flows on top of a deep alluvial deposit brought
down from the mountains by the streams in the southeast, and
the high plateaus which border it on either side for the last
300 miles of its course give way to broad and gently sloping
valleys of the different tributaries.

From the southwest corner of Washington County to the
mouth of the Salmon River, the Snake River flows at the bot-
tom of a canyon at the foot of the steep slopes of high moun-
tains on either side. A few miles below the Salmon the moun-
tains fall back, leaving broad bench lands bordering on the
river from 500 to 3,000 feet in elevation. Near Lewiston a
few low benches occur, lying from twenty to 150 feet above
the river, and at an elevation of about 750 feet above the level
of the sea. These lower benches are irrigated, but the high
plateaus of Nez Perces County are cultivated without irri-
gation.

No branch streams join the river from the north between
Henry's Fork, in the extreme northeast corner of the state,
and the Big Wood River in Lincoln County, a distance of
nearly 300 miles, the courses of the streams which rise in the
mountains on that side being obstructed by this great lava de-

IDAHO

143

144 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

posit. The description of the Lost River country is given later
with Blaine Count)'. While a great central plain containing
more than 5,000,000 acres, is not crossed by a single stream, it
is by no means worthless, for it is one of the best winter ranges
in the west, and large sections of it can be reclaimed by irri-
gation.

Fremont, Bingham and Bannock Counties constitute
the upper Snake River Valley. Here is the beginning of the
greatest irrigation district in the United States. Canals have
been constructed and others are being pushed to completion
for the irrigation of all that vast and fertile region lyi-ng be-
tween the eastern boundaries of Fremont County and Amer-
ican Falls in Oneida County, comprising about 700,000 acres
of land. The total length of these canals, when completed, will
be not less than 650 miles, and land throughout this region can
be purchased at extremely moderate prices. The source of
the water supply is from the high plateau and never failing
snows, and lakes of Yellowstone Park. The flow of the river
is quite regular, and the flood-flow occurs late in the season.
From St. Anthony to Blackfoot the river banks are low and
the river has a fall of but five feet to the mile, so there is no
difficulty of diverting the water from it into ditches. The large
canals have for the most part been constructed by the settlers
themselves and were not expensive, some costing not more
than from $1.00 to $4.00 per acre for the land irrigated, while
the annual maintenance, including wages of overseer, or water
master, does not amount to over twenty cents per acre, and
on some canals as low as five cents per acre. At American
Falls a high ridge of lava crosses the river and ends the upper
irrigation district. This strip of country is about 135 miles
in length and from five to twenty miles in width, contains
nearly 1,100 square miles, and of this vast area about one-third
is now being tilled.

This section of Idaho is especially adapted to the raising of
vegetables, the hardier fruits, hay, wheat, oats, barley, and es-
pecially alfalfa. The conditions and cost of two or three of
the many canals are here cited for the sake of reference.

The Marysville Canal & Improvement Co. main canal, with
laterals, has a length of about thirty miles and intends to
irrigate 25,000 acres. Estimated cost, $20,000. The water
is sold at $6 per inch and annual cost of maintenance. Idaho
Canal Co. cost $50,000, belongs to the resident land owners,
and a share of stock costs $15, which entitles the owner to ten

IDAHO

145

146 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

miner's inches of water. The annual maintenance is about
$i.oo per share. The Reservation Canal, about thirty miles in
length, is designed to water the Fort Hall Indian Reservation,
where there are 125,000 acres of land below irrigation level, 14,-
000 acres of which has lately been thrown open to settlement
around Pocatello. The American Falls Canal & Power Co.'s
canal heads ten miles above Blackfoot and is 200 miles in
length, including the laterals. It cost $325,000 and is under
the Carey act.

The counties of Fremont, Bingham and the upper part
of Bannock constitute the upper Snake River Valley and
are as rich as any counties in the state. They will develop
large diversified farming communities, and inexhaustible ranges
for cattle and sheep. In the vicinity of Idaho Falls, in 1902,
there were fattened on alfalfa and wheat and shipped 20,000
head of hogs, vidiich gives a fair idea of the fattening quali-
ties of this wonderful plant, which is raised under irrigation
in such prodigious crops. Thousands of acres here are un-
settled and open to filing under the desert and homestead acts.

Idaho Falls, on the Oregon Short Line, with a population of
1,700, has water works, electric lighting plant, telephone sys-
tem, seven churches, a creamery, flour and planing mills, and
the State Experimental Station. The price of land under ditch
in this vicinity ranges from $10 to $20 per acre; unimproved,
$5 to $10 per acre.

St. xA-nthony, on the Oregon Short Line, has a population
of 1,200, good schools, churches, and several industries. Black-
foot, on the same line and the junction of the Salmon River
branch line, has a population of 1,500, is the seat of the state in-
sane asylum, the United States Land Office, the largest district
in the state, and is quite a shipping point.

Bannock, though one of the southeast counties, is a part of
the upper irrigation district. It has a large section of agri-
cultural lands on which large flocks of sheep and herds of cat-
tle are ranged.

Pocatello is the county seat, has a population of about
5,000, and is a great railroad center, being a terminal point
for the Oregon Short Line from the east, via Granger on the
Union Pacific, also via Salt Lake and Ogden from the Southern
Pacific Railway, Portland, via the Oregon Railway & Naviga-
tion Co., and Butte, Mont., from the Northern Pacific and ttie
Great Northern, thus having communication from all points
of the compass. Large railroad shops are located here, em-

IDAHO

147

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148 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

pIo\'ing upwards of 500 men, and the city is in a thrifty con-
dition. Mines are being opened in the near vicinity and ev-
erything points to this soon becoming a mining center.

Bear Lake County is the extreme southeasterly county of
the state. This is a county of high altitude, lying in the Rocky
Mountains, and is devoted largely to cattle and sheep raising.
The mining interests are becoming prominent. Bear Lake, a
body of water covering eighty square miles, the greater part
of which is located in this county, is one of the most beau-
tiful lakes of the mountains, and abounds in trout, white fish,
bass and other varieties of the finny tribe.

Montpelier is situated on the Oregon Short Line and has
a population of 2,000. It is growing very fast at present, good
business blocks and other buildings being erected. Paris is the
county seat, located on the Oregon Short Line, and is an-
other good town. This county is having a genuine mining
boom in a conservative way.

Oneida, Cassia and C)\\viiee Counties are bounded on
the north by the Snake River, and on the south by the boundary
line of the state. They have a mild climate and are therefore
capable of producing all the agricultural crops and fruits, and
are comparatively well watered. The largest body of level
land is perhaps found in the Cache Valley, in the eastern
part of Cassia County, but which lies too high for irriga-
tion. Farther to the east considerable land is irrigated along
several creeks. On Deep Creek and the Malade X'alley, in
the western part of Oneida County, are the best opportunities
for water storage sites.

In Cassia County is the site and district covered by the
Twin Falls Land & Water Co., which is an enterprise in-
volving the reclamation of 271,000 acres of land, to cost
approximately $1,500,000, and is perhaps the largest indi-
vidual irrigating undertaking in the United States. Two hun-
dred and thirty thousand acres of land are located in this county
and 41,000 on the north side of the Snake River, in Lincoln
County. The average altitude of these counties is 4,000 feet,
and the climate is very mild. In Cassia Countv are some of
the richest fruit lands in the state, the sun during the summer
months striking the lower valle3's with almost a tropical heat.
Three dams will be constructed at Twin Falls on the Snake
River, to a height of fifty-four feet. The river at this point
is 1,600 feet in width and will be raised to a height of thirty-
four feet. This land is subject to the Carey act, therefore only

IDAHO

149

150 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

i6o acres will be sold to an individual. There will be a town
at the dam and a water-power site named Milner, and another
named Twin Falls, to which a railroad connected with the Ore-
gon Short Line is projected. The majestic Shoshone Falls is
in this district.

With the exception of a few scattered ranches along the
narrow bottom of the rivers, irrigated by short ditches, or water
taken out by current wheels which lift the water direct from
the river, the Snake River itself is not used for irrigation pur-
poses from American Falls to Lewiston, owing to the depth
of the valley proper.

The northern part of these counties, west of Pocatello,
consists of high plateaus, a part of the Snake River plains.
They lie at an elevation of about 3,000 feet and extend back
from twenty to sixty miles. Back of these plains is a range
of mountains, the summits of which, in places, are in Nevada,
but the northern slopes parallel the Snake River. The Salmon
and Bruneau rivers drain the central district, and both flow in
deep canyons. On Cedar Creek the farmers have constructed
a canal, and there are several ditches along the Bruneau River.
Beyond the ranches are scattered here and there in Owyhee
County, which is largely a stock cotmtry, but a veritable store-,
house of mineral wealth. The De Lamar and Trade Dollar
mines, famous the world over, are here situated. All the ag-
ricultural products in this vicinity have ready sale at good
prices in these camps. Silver City is the center of the mining
districts of Owyhee County, and is reached by a branch of the
Oregon Short Line.

Blaine County and the Lost River Country. — It was
stated before that no running streams enter the Snake River
on the north from near its headwaters to the Wood River, in
Blaine and Lincoln counties, or a distance of about 300 miles.
An area of about 4,000 miles is drained by several creeks, some
of considerable size, which at one time evidently formed an
important tributary to the Snake River. Its course is hard
to guess, for the great lava sheet has not only filled it, but
obliterated all traces of its existence. The principal streams
forming this disconnected drainage system are the Big and
Little Lost rivers, Birch, Blue, Medicine Lodge, Beaver and
Camas creeks. The mountains drained by these streams rise
to an elevation of from 8,000 to 12,000 feet, and are known
as the Lost River Mountains, the main range crossing the
state from east to west. Not far from the base of these moun-

IDAHO

151

tains the waters of the streams sink from sight. Before these
creeks were used for irrigation their waters were discharged
into shallow lakes on the lower portions of alluvial plains, the
lakes being evaporated during the course of the summer from
the intense rays of the sun. Nearly the entire flow of these
streams is now utilized. Good land is very plentiful, conse-
quently the streams are overtaxed and a shortage of water is
the rule. There are from seventy-five to eighty ditches taking
water from the Big Lost River, the valley being under cultiva-
tion for about sixty miles. It is said that it is practicable to
divert the water from a fork of the Salmon River into one of

CAPITOL BUILDING, BOISE, IDAHO.

the upper branches of that stream. If the scheme is feasible a
large territory of very desirable land can be reclaimed. It is es-
tUTiated that 5,000 acres of land are now irrigated in this valley.
It is advocated by those well acquamted with the country that
it is feasible to divert the water of Henry's Fork in the north-
east part of Fremont County from a point high enough to cross
the divide between Shotgun and Camas creeks. In this terri-
tory many thousands of acres of magnificent land could be re-
claimed. The great Central Plain, along the north bank of
the Snake River, will perhaps always remain in a desert con-
dition, bemg used at present as a winter range for cattle and
sheep, although the underground flow from the Lost River
Mountain streams may be discovered and brought to the sur-
face.

152 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

From Blue Lakes to the Oregon state line Snake River is
fringed at intervals with small bottom lands, most of them
sheltered by the high canyon walls, or bluffs of the upper
plateau. Between Blue Lakes and the mouth of Malade River
the water supply for these little valleys is obtained from the
huge springs which gush out of the north wall of the Snake
River Canyon which are thought to be from the Lost and
Wood rivers drainage. The flow of these springs is constant,
both winter and summer. At Thousand Springs, at the head
of the Hagerman Valley, they burst out through a porous
stratum covering a distance of one-half mile and fall i8o feet,
with the roar of a great cataract, into the valley below. For
a distance of nearly ten miles below this point springs of great
volume break out, some forming falls of from twenty to eighty
feet. Thus what is known as the Snake River Desert, which
constitutes a part of Freeman, Bingham, Lincoln and Blaine
counties, is explained. The Wood River district in Blaine
County, which adjoins the desert, is a very rich district. Though
of high altitude, most crops are grown, and stockraising is fol-
lowed extensively. The great mining camps at Hailey and
Ketchum, the latter being the terminus of the Wood River
branch of the Oregon Short Line, are thriving centers of trade.

Lincoln County. — This county, lying at about the center
of the great arid desert, is covered with a heavy sage-brush
growth and is not inviting to the eye of the tenderfoot, yet it
affords the best of winter range for stock, and is perhaps the
very center of the stock interests. The soil is deep and rich,
but there is no opportunity for irrigation except immediately
adjoining the Snake River, where quite a percentage of the
large irrigation district of the Twin Falls Company is lo-
cated. It has been advocated strongly that Shoshone Falls
should produce the electricity as a power for a vast pumping
plant to raise the waters of the Snake River to the height of
the plateaus, thus affording relief to a large immediate region.

A few miles below Shoshone Falls, in the lower or imme-
diate valley of the Snake River, there are about i,ooo acres
of land which has been reclaimed by water from Blue Lakes,
and a considerable portion planted to orchards. This is known
as the Blue Lakes or Perrine farm, and has been a medal win-
ner at all the great expositions for the excellence of its fruit
for several years. There are many other opportunities to win
medals if the water can be obtained. There graze every winter

IDAHO

153

154 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

in this county not less than 1,500,000 sheep. Five hundred
thousand were shipped in 1902. The majority of the wealth
of the county, up to the present time, has been made from
the sheep industry.

Shoshone, a lively little town of 400 inhabitants on the Ore-
gon Short Line, has representative stores and banks with a
capital in business befitting a much larger place. This is the
headquarters of the sheep interests.

Elmore and Boise Counties. — These two counties are
noted for their mineral productions. At Mountain Home and
Glenns Ferry, on the Oregon Short Line, in Elmore County,
the creeks afiford fine plateaus for irrigating. A new system
is being projected at Glenns Ferry by building a canal from
Mammoth Springs, referred to before, the water being brought
in a six foot wooden pipe and held up by a wire cable sus-
pension bridge which carries it across the Snake River. It
is expected that this will irrigate 25,000 acres of land. The
lands irrigated at Mountain Home are under what is called
the Long Tom Reservoir system.

Boise County has a wonderfully rich valley in every way
and is but moderately irrigated. There are very good oppor-
tunities here to divert water in a small way.

Ada and Canyon Counties cover the valleys of the Boise
and Payette rivers, which are identical in many ways, the
former being the largest body of irrigable land in the south-
western part of the state. Here is a great widening of the
Snake River plains, there being 634 square miles under ditches
completed and projected, a large portion of which is now
successfully growing all kinds of crops, especially fruit. The
Payette Valley in Canyon County has an altitude of from 2,100
to 2,800 feet, the irrigable portion being about twenty miles
in length to sixty miles of the Boise Valley. It contains an
area of 85,000 acres. The soil is a volcanic sandy loam and
very fertile. The interests of Canyon County are quite di-
versified, some very large flocks of sheep being found here.
The land in these two valleys is perhaps the most valuable
in any part of the state, it being no uncommon thing to gather
from six year old trees 250 pounds of apples, and from ten
year old trees 1,000 to 1,200 pounds.

Nampa, Caldwell, Palmer and Payette are all on the Oregon
Short Line and are thriving places. The State Agricultural
Experiment Station is located at Nampa.

Boise, in Ada County, is the county seat and capital of the

IDAHO

155

156 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

state. It has a population of 8,068. This city is the business
center of the southern part of the state ; the citizens are wide
awake business men, and there is no more beautiful and home-
like city in all the west. It has all the improvements required
by a city of its size — street car service, a really first class
hotel, many substantial public buildings and a natatorium, per-
haps the finest bathing place west of the Rocky Mountains.

The state capitol presents the trade mark of the state to the
visiting public by displaying along the walks leading to it large
specimens of gold, silver, galena, and copper ores taken from
its mines. There is no better way of advertising its mineral re-
sources than this. The government maintains a garrison east
of the city, and penitentiary and soldiers' home are located
here. The winter climate being mild, many mining and cattle
men and transients from other states make this their winter
home.

Washington County lies in the extreme western part of
the state, adjoining Oregon. It contains many fertile valleys,
the largest of which is the AA^eiser, all of them being well wa-
tered and abounding in timber. The Seven Devils mining dis-
trict, situated in the northern part of this and in Idaho counties,
is proving very rich in copper and gold. A number of large
irrigation systems are now in operation and others are pro-
jected. The Weiser \'alley, which is irrigated, is the section
of country near the town of Weiser on the Oregon .Short
Line and the Snake River. This valley has a wide range of
products, a mild climate, and is but a continuation of the
Payette Valley.

Weiser has a population of 2,000, two banks, wholesale and
retail stores, its buildings being built largely of brick, a col-
lege, the largest fruit evaporator in the state, and a large
flouring mill. At this point the Oregon Short Line turns to
the west and crosses the Snake River into Oregon.

Idaho County is the largest county in the state, is very cen-
trallv located, and extends from the Panhandle on the north
well into the southern body of the state. The county covers
the westward valley of the Salmon River, the middle and
south forks of the Clearwater River, and extends from Montana
on the east to Oregon on the west. This county has immense
timber areas and a large portion on the eastern side has been
set off as a timber reserve. Its mining interests are also large,
and there is sufficient rain throughout the northern part to in-
sure the maturing of crops. If needed there is ample water for

IDAHO

IS'i

AN OPAL MINE, MOSCOW, IDAHO.

158 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

irrigation. This is a part of the famous Clearwater country,
consisting of fertile valleys and high prairie plains, and has con-
siderable mining activity. There is a quantity of government
land to be had and there are perhaps better openings here for
those of moderate means than in most parts of the state. There
are several thriving towns in the northwestern part, Stites be-
ing the terminal of a branch of the Northern Pacific Railway
from Lewiston and Spokane.

Nez Perces and Latah Counties. — These two counties
border on southeastern Washington. They cover the upper
Palouse Valley, the Potlatch and the lower valley of the Clear-
water rivers, and are really a combination of these countries,
being a little higher than the main Palouse, and therefore have
more rainfall, but irrigation is necessary for raising fruit in
the valleys. The wealth of this country is immense in timber,
mineral and agricultural products.

The Lewiston country, at the confluence of the Snake and
Clearwater rivers, is the entrance to the central portion of the
state. This was the route taken by Lewis and Clark in the
early part of the previous century and here to-day stand living
monuments to these men in Lewiston, on the Idaho side of
the Snake River, and Clarkston, on the Washington side — two
thriving towns connected by a magnificent steel wagon bridge
over one-third of a mile in length. These towns are located
at the only widening of the Snake River Valley for several
hundred miles of its tortuous canyoned course, and are the
topographical center of a great region and should always enjoy
great prosperit}^. Their claim for 1903 is a population of
7,500 conjointly, and that the tributary population equals 50,-
000. The valley is open prairie and the lands, which are ir-
rigated, produce enormously in fruits and other crops. Lewis-
ton has the Nez Perces and other orchards and the boats along
the rivers transport the wheat which is grown in vast fields on
the uplands. The Northern Pacific Railway has entered the
city of Lewiston from Spokane and extended a line to Stites in
Idaho county ; the Oregon Railway & Navigation Co. is build-
ing a line up the Snake River, and a movement is on foot
to build a new rail route with a Montana connection via the
Clearwater Valley. Further, the government has been urged,
in the interest of the whole Inland Empire, to improve the
Celilo Falls of the Columbia, with a fair prospect of success.
This, with some improvement of the Riparia rapids, would give
these cities a water communication with the sea.

IDAHO

159

Lewiston and Clarkston have many stores, three banks, two
newspapers, a United States Land Office, state Supreme Court,
and state normal school. They enjoy the advantage of cheap
water power from the Grande Ronde Valley in Washington,
electrically transmitted, and invite new manufacturing enter-
prises in the use of the raw materials of wheat, wool and tim-
ber. The town of Clarkston lies in Asotin County, Wash.,
and the business interests of these two cities, and in fact this
whole region, are identified in every way, except politically, with
the country to the west.

Moscow, the county seat of Latah County, is on the North-
ern Pacific and the Oregon Railway & Navigation Co. railways,
and has a population of 5,200. It has paved streets, a state
university, flouring
mills, and good busi-
ness blocks. Other
cities are Genesee,
Julietta and Kend-
rick.

The prices of land
in the Clearwater
Basin are about $125
per acre for irrigated
fruit land, the cost of
planting and taking
care of it being addi-
tional. The uplands, that is the plateau lands, which are
adapted to grain raising, bringing from $5 to $15 per acre.

Shoshone and Kootenai Counties. — These two counties
are in the extreme northern part of the state and are known
as the Panhandle. They are noted for their mineral wealth,
taken mainly from the Coeur d'Alene mines, in the northern
part of Shoshone County, and for the manufacture of lumber
throughout this entire upper section. Shoshone is the most
populous and the wealthiest county in the state. Idaho, in
1901, produced as a whole from its mines, a value of $18,000,-
000; of this the Coeur d'Alene mines produced $9,500,000. The
products of these mines, although silver bearing, carry so much
lead that they are in demand at the different smelters through-
out the northwest. To-day the names of Wallace, Wardner,
Murray and others are prominently known throughout the min-
ing world. Fifty per cent of the lead mined in the United

WHEAT PILED READY FOR SHIPMENT^
NEAR MOSCOW, IDAHO.

160

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

States comes from the Coeur d'Alene Mountains, within a
radius of twenty miles of Wallace. These towns are reached
by the Oregon Railway & Navigation Co. from the west, and
the Northern Pacific branch from Missoula.

The St. Joe River district in Kootenai County is the largest
lumber district, Harrison, located on that river, having ten saw
mills. St. Mary's and Coeur d'Alene river valleys contain large
timber tracts. There is a timber area of 2,600 square miles
along the Canadian boundary line, which is one of Idaho's
greatest forests. The yellow pine, fir, and tamarac along the
table lands of the Kootenai and Fend d'Oreille rivers, in the

LAKE PEND D OREILLE.

vicinity of Bonners Ferry, constitute the major portion of the
available timber of the Fanhandle.

WASHINGTON.

This state is known as the "Evergreen" state, owing to its
dense evergreen forests; also as the "Chinook" state, prob-
ably from the use here of what is known as the Chinook lan-
guage, a jargon which enabled the Hudson's Bay Co. people
and the whites in general . to communicate with the different
tribes of Indians. The prevailing moist, westerly wind, known
as the Chinook wind, may also have had some influence in nam-
ing the state. Washington lies in the extreme northwesterly
part of the United States, iDordering the Facific Ocean on the
west, Canada on the north, Idaho on the east, and Oregon on

WASHINGTON

161

the south. The length of the state from east to west is 360
miles, and from north to south 240 miles, comprising an area
of 69,180 square miles, of which 2,300 square miles is com-
prised of water. The census of 1900 gives the population as
518,103, which in all probability at the present time is at least
700,000.

Early History. — The earlier discoveries on the coast are
previously given in the general history of the I'acific North-
west. The present state formed the central part of the Oregon
Territorv, and was claimed by both Great Britain and the

yORT VANCOUVER, WASHINGTON, iSSS-

United States. It was discovered and the straits named by
Juan de Fuca in 1592 ; was visited by- the Spanish in 1775 ; by
Captain Cook in 1778; the Columbia River was ascended by
Captain Robert Gray in 1792, and the same river traversed
by Lewis and Clark in 1805-6. Fur traders established depots
at the mouth of the Columbia in 181 1, and later some settle-
ment was made in southern Oregon, but the first white people
who were not trappers, fur traders, or explorers to come to
Washington were the missionaries. Dr. Marcus Whitman and
party in 1836-7, who established themselves near the present
site of the city of Walla Walla, and the Rev. H. H. Spalding,

1G2 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

who opened a mission at Lapwai. Others came later. The
story of Dr. Whitman's famous wagon, on the sides of which
was painted "Oregon or the Grave," his labors in educating
the Indians, his celebrated ride to the capitol at Washington
in midwinter, when he notified the government of the influx
of British settlers, his return with many more wagons, and
his martyr-like death in 1847, are a part of the history of the
great struggle. In 1840 Joel P. Walker arrived with his wife
and five children and are entitled to the honor of being the
first settlers, for they were actually seeking homes. Dvu"ing
the same year some Rocky Mountain men arrived ; in 1841
twenty-three families, aggregating sixty-three persons, came
from the Red River under the auspices of the Hudson's Bay
Co. This caused Whitman to make his long ride across the
continent from pure loyalty to his country. A party of 112,
under Colonel Lovejoy, came in 1842. From this time on set-
tlers arrived yearly with slight interruptions.

Permanent settlements had now been made, the boundary
question had been forced to an issue and decided in 1846, and
the territory of Washington was organized in 1853. Tum-
water, at the head of Puget Sound, was settled in 1845 I Fort
Steilacoom and Port Townsend in 1851 ; Seattle in 1853; and
many other pioneer settlements were formed through the suc-
ceeding years until the territory was admitted as the forty-
second state of the Union on November 11, 1889.

Topograph V. — The most prominent physical feature of the
state is the Cascade Range of mountains, which divides the
state into two* unequal sections, differing widely in character-
istics, resources and industries. These mountains have an ele-
vation of about 8,000 feet, the highest peak being Mount
Rainier, or Tacoma, with an altitude of 14,526 feet. It is
covered with snow throughout the entire year, and bears sev-
eral large glaciers. To the south are Mount St. Helens, 10,-
000 feet, and Alount Adams, 12,470 feet, and northward, near
the Canadian border. Mount Baker, 11,100 feet. All these
mountains carry snow fields both winter and summer.

The topographical feature of western Washington is that
myriad of bays and harbors, a body of land-locked salt water
of fully 2,000 square miles in area, with a remarkable length
of shore line, known as Puget Sound. This is an enchanting
sheet of water, hemmed in on the east by the rugged Cascades
and on the west by the serrated Olympics. The scenery is very
picturesque, and the changing shades of light and color at

WASHINGTON

1G3

164 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

sunset are wonderful. Taking into account the length of the
Strait of Juan de Fuca, Olympia, the capital city of the state,
situated on the Sound near its head, would be more than
200 miles from the Pacific Ocean. The depth of this body of
water is such that the largest ocean craft may without trouble
reach almost any part.

Beginning near the northern boundary of the state, the
following principal streams flow westward from the Cascade
Mountains into Puget Sound : The Nooksachk, Skagit, Snoho-
mish, Duwamish, Puyallup, Nisqually, and the Skokomish,
from the Olympics in the west. Of these streams the Skagit
is the only one which may be truly called a navigable stream.
The Chehalis River discharges into Gray's Harbor on the coast
and is navigable as far as Montesano.

In the extreme northwest, surrounded by the Pacific Ocean,
the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Sound Basin, are situated
the Olympic Mountains. These mountains afford a majestic
scene from the water and from any high point along the Sound.
They have not been fully explored, owing to their broken char-
acter. The sides are often abrupt and the canyons deep, so
that of their very interior little is known. Mount OI>'mpus, the
highest peak, has an elevation of 8,150 feet.

The great natural feature draining the entire eastern por-
tion of the state and forming a boundary between Washington
and Oregon on the south, is the Columbia River. It rises in
Canada in two sources, one entering the United States in Mon-
tana, the other in eastern Washington, follows a southerly and
westerly course to the 46° of latitude, where it turns abruptly
to the west and flows to the Pacific Ocean. The Columbia
Basin and tributaries include a part of Montana, the entire
state of Idaho, all of eastern Washington, and practically all
of Oregon. So far as Washington is concerned, its principal
tributaries are the Okanogan River, which rises in British Col-
umbia and flows southward through Okanogan County ; the
Spokane River, which rises in Idaho, flows northwesterly, and
joins the Columbia at the eastern elbow of the Great Bend at
the junction of Stevens, Ferry and Lincoln counties. This river
is noted for its falls at the city of Spokane. The Yakima River
rises in the Cascades, flows in a southeasterly course through
Kittitas and Yakima counties, its valley being the highway of
the Northern Pacific Railway, and reaches the Columbia a few
miles above the mouth of the Snake River. Last and the most
prominent of all the tributaries, is the Snake River, which rises

WASHINGTON

165

1G6 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

in Yellowstone Park in Wyoming, flows through southern
Idaho, then turns northward and in a deep canyon forms the
boundary between Idaho and Washington, then turns west-
ward, reaching the Columbia a few miles below the mouth of
the Yakima. Many smaller tributaries to the Colum-
bia— the Methow, Chelan, Entiat, Wenatchee, the valley of
the latter being the highway of the Great Northern Railway,
and the Klickitat, whose source is the snow of Mount Adams,
come in from the western slopes of the Cascades. The Sans
Poll and Kettle rivers, rising in British Columbia, flow south
through Ferry County. The Columbia has two important trib-
utaries coming in west of the Cascades, one the Lewis River,
which heads high up on Mount St. Helens, and the Cowlitz,
which rises in the glaciers of Mount Rainier. The Northern
Pacific uses Cowlitz Valley as a means of reaching the Colum-
bia Valley on its line between Tacoma and Portland.

The Columbia River is the largest in this state and is nav-
igable from its mouth to The Dalles, and from Wenatchee to
the mouth of the Okanogan. Throughout the remainder of its
length the numerous rapids left in the channel cut through the
lava bed, making navigation impossible. The falls above The
Dalles, known as Celilo, it is believed, can be overcome, and if
so, with a moderate expenditure at the Riparia Rapids on the
Snake River between Columbia and Whitman counties, nav-
igation may be had at perhaps all seasons of the year from the
vicinity of Lewiston, Idaho, to the sea.

Throughout the Cascade and Olympic mountains are many
lakes which have been formed by glacial action, and some
of them are quite large. The largest is Lake Chelan, in Chelan
County. It is a long, narrow and beautiful body of water, ly-
ing between high mountains, and has a dep*:h of 1,500 feet. In
the mountain regions several lakes occupy old volcanic craters.
Two exquisite lakes. Crescent and Sutherland, in the Olympics,
are situated about sixteen miles from Port Townsend. They
are great sporting resorts for the angler, as indeed are all the
mountain lakes.

East of the Cascade Mountains, in the Columbia Basin,
that portion of the state lying along the Canadian boundary
and north of the Columbia and Spokane rivers, covering mainly
the counties of Okanogan, Ferry, Stevens and Spokane, is
known as the Okanogan Highlands. It is generally rolling in
character, with long slopes leading down to the river valleys.

WASHINGTON

167

Its height above sea level ranges generally from 6,000 and
7,000 feet to less than 1,000 feet along the principal streams.

The region south of the Columbia and Spokane rivers and
east of the Cascades is known as the Great Columbia Plateau,
a vast extent of country, built up by many successive flows of
lava from a depth of from 2,000 to 4,000 feet. The general
surface above the river
channels is cjuite level, but
occasionally rises into hills,
as in the Palouse country,
which were probably formed
by drifting sand and soil ;
the southwesterly portion of
these hills being gradual
slopes, and the northeasterly
portion more abrupt, indi-
cating a southwesterly wind
as the cause. The rivers in
all instances flow in deep
canyons made by the erosion
of the basalt, which stands
out in imposing clifl^s at ev-
ery turn.

The Blue Mountain s,
which are a division of them-
selves, enter Washington
from the south and extend
to the Idaho line, occup^dng
a very small area in the ex-
treme southeastern part of
the state. They have been
very prominent in shaping
the course of the rivers, but
are only uplifted portions of
the lava beds of the main plateau. The average height is
about 6,000 feet, the highest peak being 8,000 feet.

Climate. — The Cascade Range is high and continues from
north to south throughout the state. The prevailing winds are
from the Pacific Ocean on the west and carry much moisture at
certain seasons of the 3'ear. Owing to the fact that the Cas-
cades form a barrier to the passage of the moist clouds east-
ward, a wide diversity of climate condition is created between
eastern Washington, or the Columbia Basin, and western Wash-

TlIE -HEART OF THE OLViMPICS.

168 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

ington, or the Puget Sound Basin. The waters of Paget Sound,
the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Gulf of Georgia, and the Pacific
Ocean together have a wonderful equalizing influence upon the
temperature, producing a milder and far more equable cli-
mate than is usual in other regions in the same latitude. In
western Washington the range of the mean temperature for
the year is 35° in winter and 65° in summer, or an annual
mean of from 50° to 52°, while in eastern Washington it is
from 25° in winter to 70° in summer.

In the Walla Walla country there are hot summers and
mild winters, with little snowfall, and short periods of mod-
erately cold weather. In the Palouse country and Yakima and
Klickitat counties the summer weather is hot and the winters
are colder, but with more snow. In Spokane County, the
Big Bend country, and Okanogan County, still farther north,
all on the east side of the Cascades, the summers are short and
hot, and the winters have some cold weather. Spokane has a
record of 20°. In the hot spells of summer temperatures of
90° and 100° are sometimes reached. Walla Walla has a
record of 112°. The locality about Lake Chelan and the
valley of the Okanogan has a phenomenally mild winter cli-
mate. Lake Chelan never freezes. The mean temperature of
Walla Walla and the lower Yakima Valley is from 53° to 54°,
ranging from 31° in January to 76° in July; Spokane from
46° to 48°, or from 24° in January to 68° in July; Colville, in
Stevens County, has a mean temperature of 45° ; Klickitat
Count}', next to the Oregon line but east of the Cascades, from
50° to 52° ; Kittitas, the upper or westerly part of the Yakima
Valley, from 44° to 46° West of the Cascades the temper-
ature of the hottest days rarely exceeds 90°, and on the coldest
days of winter seldom reaches zero, and then only at the coldest
stations. The warmest counties are Pacific, Lewis, Clark and
Cowlitz, and the whole of the upper Sound region. The lower
Sound region and the straits are cooler, the mean temperature
being from 46° to 48° Cool summers and mild winters in
western Washington are very apparent. The highest tempera-
ture at Seattle is 93° and the lowest 3° At Tacoma there is
an annual mean of 50°, ranging from 38° in January to 64°
in July. Western Washington as a whole has about the winter
climate of Maryland, Virginia, North Carolina, and Tennessee,
while the summer climate is that of Maine, \^ermont. Northern
Michigan and Canada.

The winters in eastern Washington are neither rigorous nor

WASHINGTON

169

170 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

long, and there is no cold weather except when the winds
come from the north or northeast, the air being dry ; the few
hot days of summer are not uncomfortable. Eastern Washing-
ton as a wliole has a similar winter climate to New York, Mich-
igan, Illinois and southern Iowa, and a summer climate simi-
lar to that of New York, Michigan and Minnesota, though con-
siderably dryer.

The southerly and westerly winds are prevalent in winter and
very mild. The name "Chinook" has been given to this warm,
balmy wind, which, rising after every cold spell, dissipates the
snow fields as if by magic in the eastern part of the state, leav-
ing but little water upon the ground. This phenomenon is ex-
plained by the fact that the wind, having lost its moisture on
the west side of the Cascades, comes to the eastern territory
over a high elevation and descends into the valley as a dry
wind. The north and easterly winds in winter are cold and
cause much of the snowfall. The opposite of this is true in
summer. The southwesterly and northwesterly winds are the
prevailing winds of summer and are cool, while the northerly
and northeasterly winds are hot in the daytime but cool at
night. When the great plains east of the Rocky Mountains
are hot during the summer, a wind from the northeast is hot ;
when the\' are cold in the winter a wind from that direction is
cold. It is only when the Rocky Mountains fail to act as a
barrier to the cold winds from the Canadian provinces that
cold weather ensues.

The mountains produce the difference in precipitation in
moisture. This precipitation is heaviest near the coast, ranging
from sixty to too inches annually. This is called the wet
district. Throughout the Sound region it is much less, but
gradually increases as the country rises again to the higher
summit of the Cascade Mountains. The precipitation here is
from twenty-five to sixty inches and is called the moist dis-
trict. The drv district is the northern and eastern portion of
the state, in which the rainfall is from twelve to twenty-five
inches, and the semi-arid region is the main Columbia Plateau,
in which the rainfall averages about ten inches. The rains fall
usually from November to April, not continuously, however,
and a strav shower may fall at any time during the summer,
even east of the Cascade Mountains. From the summit of the
Cascades over the plateau region the rainfall is largely depend-
ent upon the altitude, there being a regular decrease going east-
ward, until, on the low plain along the Columbia River, the

WASHINGTON

171

average precipitation for the year is but ten inches. Continuing
eastward, as the country rises, in the most eastern part, the
Okanogan Hills, the Palouse country and at the Idaho line, it
is from twenty to twenty-five inches annuallx'. It may be said
here that a country having a rainfall of ten inches or less is
considered arid, or semi-arid ; an average of twenty inches
is a good rain belt.

In the wet district are included the counties of \\'ahkiakum,
Pacific, Chehalis, Mason, and the western halves of Jefferson

A PIECE OF WASHINGTON' TIMBER.

and Clallam. In the moist district are included the counties of
Whatcom, Skagit, Snohomish, San Juan Island, King, Kitsap,
Pierce, Thurston, Lewis, Cowlitz, Skamania, and the eastern
halves of Jefferson and Clallam. In the dry district are in-
cluded the counties of Walla W^alla, Columbia, Garfield, Asotin,
Whitman, Spokane, Stevens. Ferry, Chelan, the greater part of
Lincoln, the eastern half of Adams, the western half of Klicki-
tat, the western third of Yakima, the western half of Kittitas,
the northwest half of Okanogan, and a strip in the extreme
western part of Douglas. In the very dry or semi-arid region,
where crops cannot be successfully grown without irrigation.

172 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

are included Franklin county, the eastern two-thirds of Yakima,
the eastern halves of Kittitas and Klickitat, the western half
of Adams, the southwest part of Lincoln, the southeast half
of Okanogan, and nearly the whole of Douglas county.

The number of clear days annually in western Washington
averages 102 for a period of years, and in eastern Washington

152.

Resources. — The agricultural resources are varied and ex-
tensive, owing to the peculiarly favorable climate and gen-
eral richness of the soil. Aside from the mountain re-
gions, nearly all of the state is adapted to agriculture, but as
yet only a small portion of the tillable land has been brought
under cultivation. The soil of the Columbia Basin east of the
Cascades is volcanic in character and very rich. It has been
produced by the disintegration of the lava formations, pulver-
ized to soil by action of the elements or the ice in former ages,
and is of a dark color, often shading to a reddish brown where
it has lain the longest undisturbed. In some places it is of
great depth, even fifty or sixty feet. The soil of the valleys is
composed of an alluvial deposit with the volcanic ash, and has
an underlying bed of clay. On the high land the soil is more
shallow, the texture is slightly coarser grained, is not quite so
fertile, tills easily, works up mellow, and is particularly tena-
cious of moisture, holding enough in the dry region, gathered
from the winter and spring snow and rainfall, to mature grain
without further aid in summer. These lands comprise the im-
mense wheat areas, and have long been cropped, producing
abundantly. It would appear that this volcanic soil has all of
the necessary mineral salts to produce a wide range of crops
and that it apparently is inexhaustible. The arid valleys of the
eastern slope of the Cascades are particularly adapted to hor-
ticultural products, and the arid plains are producing the
cereals without irrigation, notably in Whitman and Lincoln
counties, the latter being the banner wheat county of the
United States. The total product of wheat in the state of
Washington was 23,672,187 bushels in 1902. The average
yield of wheat throughout the general wheat raising country
has been twenty-three bushels per acre, which has 3'ielded a
good profit to the farmer, as there is a very large area which
can yet be cultivated without the aid of irrigation, and by the
adaptiveness of the soil to this cereal it would seem that the
production would increase and continue for a long time to
come. There are now about 2,000,000 acres planted to wheat

WASHINGTON

173

174

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

on irrigated land. The system of cropping is different in many
instances from that of the east : the most successful seems to
be the system of summer fallowing, one-half of the farm being
cropped every other year, the other half being plowed in the
summer and allowed to clean itself. In this way the yield is
nearly doubled, with the expense of only one harvest. Oats,
barle^', rye and flax all do well. A large portion of the wheat
is exported to England and grades well with wheat from other
parts of the world.

patkon'izi:;g a wesiek.n caterer.

On the western slopes the types of soil are entirely different,
the most valuable, perhaps, laeing those found on the alder
bottoms. This soil is a loose loam, very rich in organic matter,
and when properly handled produces immense crops of almost
anything the farmer may desire to grow. This land, however,
is quite- limited in area. Another class of land may be called
semi-peat land, and there are extensive deposits of sand land.
The sand is usually mixed with clay and grows all kinds of
crops. The river valleys are well cultivated, being very rich.
The rainfall makes hay a good paying crop and dairy conditions
excellent.

WASHINGTON

175

Hops are raised with great success in the Puyalhip, White,
Snoqualmie, Nooksachk and other river valleys, and also in
the Yakima Valley in eastern Washing-ton. Enormous quan-
tities of hops are produced and buyers come to purchase from
foreign countries.

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CUTTING DOWX A FIR IKr.L IN WESrKKX WASHINGTON.

The soil and climate of eastern Washington are especially
favorable to sugar beet culture. A factory has been estab-
lished at Waverley, Spokane County, and it is predicted the
production will reach 10,000.000 pounds annually. This in-
dustry just at present is attracting considerable attention.

Dairy farming is well established and has reached a stage
of great commercial importance, the value of the various prod-

176 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

ucts for i9po being considerably over $1,000,000. The busi-
ness is well organized, is under the auspices of the State
College of Agriculture, and is regulated by law. So
much of the state being adapted to alfalfa, clover, which
springs up in every clearing, and the different grasses,
with plenty of clear water from the mountains, there
is no reason why the dairy interests should not in-
crease rapidly. The prices for all dairy products in Washing-
ton are good, as the demand is greater than the supply, a
large amount every year being shipped in from the East. Root
crops are not only profitable to the small gardener in every way,
but are a great aid to the dairyman. The majority of the
creameries of the state are located west of the Cascade Range,
but there are dairy sections in the eastern part of the state,
the Okanogan Highlands and the irrigated regions of Ya-
kima and Walla Walla counties and the lower Paiouse.

Stock. — Stock-raising in the eastern part of the state has be-
come extensive and profitable. Two-thirds of eastern and a
large part of western Washington is adapted to grazing ; cattle,
horses and sheep are raised in large numbers, and Angora
goats have been given a good start, with a promise of becoming
very profitable. There is a fine herd of full-blood Herefords
in Yakima County. The State Agricultural College also has
the nucleus of a herd, and there are several small herds of
Polled Angus in the state, and several large show herds of
shorthorns, which strain is the largest represented. The fa-
mous bunch grass flourishes in the Okanogan Highlands to a
marked degree, and further south on some of the other high-
lands east of the Cascades, but on the main plateau the wild,
or natural growth, of vegetation is sage brush. The
bunch grass has contributed much wealth to the busi-
ness of stockraising. Large fortunes have been made
in grazing sheep on the public land solely for the
wool clipped, the same as has been done in many of
the other states. \\'ashington is adapted to sheep raising,
but the settlement of the state is cutting up the ranges, as it
is doing for the cattle man, so that the flocks are becoming
curtailed ; but of late years the sheep have been sold to good
advantage for mutton, and the disposition is now to own smaller
flocks of better bloods and give them better care. Washington
has done quite a business in fattening hogs on wheat, alfalfa,
and orchard windfalls. It is a common custom to turn hogs
on the stubble after the grain is cut, and they often have no

WASHINGTON

177

178 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

other food than this and come out in good condition for market.

Horticulture. — Throughout the greater portion of the
state both climate and soil are highly favorable to horticulture,
but the localities most widely known for excellence are along the
Snake, Yakima, Wenatchee and lower Columbia rivers and Pu-
get Sound. In every section the apple is the leading fruit. All
the fruits common to the temperate zone are raised in western
Washington, especially the prune, of which there are extensive
orchards, and an abundance of high grade cherries. In eastern
Washington peaches, apricots and grapes do well, as do prunes
and other fruits. The climatic conditions are such, the temper-
ature being free from the extremes of heat and cold, yet being
sufficiently variable to afford nature the requirements to pro-
duce fruits of good size and flavor, as to make fruit culture a
very profitable industry. In consequence the fruits of the state
constitute a most important source of wealth.

The shot clay soils, where there is sufficient depth before
reaching hard pan, sandy soils, with a proper mixture of clay,
and the volcanic ash soils, with an admixture of sand in a
moderate degree with sufficient water, are the leading soils for
fruit culture. The soils of western Washington are usually
high in phosphoric acid and nitrogen, but have a lower average
of potash and lime than the soils of eastern Washington. On
the other hand, the soils of eastern Washington stand high
in potash and lime, but are much lower in phosphoric and nitro-
gen. Potash is generally the most important element to be ap-
plied directly to orchards, particularly after trees have reached
bearing age. Available potash in the soil is much increased by
tillage.

Timber. — The forests of the state constitute a most import-
ant source of wealth. They comprise nearly 50,000 square
miles, or about seventy-one per cent of the entire land area,
and extend from the Pacific Ocean to the Cascade Range, in-
cluding the eastern slope and a portion of the state east and
north, or the northern slopes of the Okanogan Hills. Near
the summit of the Cascades, on the western slope, where the
rainfall is greatest, the trees stand very close together on the
ground, as straight as arrows, and run more than 100 feet to
the first limb. It is estimated there is more timber in this state
than in the combined states of Michigan, Wisconsin and Minne-
sota, and more than in all of the yellow pine states of the south.
Professor Henry Gannett, Chief of the Division of Forestry,
U. S., says that with the exception of the redwood forests of

WASHINGTON

179

180 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

California, the forests of western Washington are among the
densest, heaviest and most continuous in the United States.
The trees are large, reaching from twelve to fifteen feet in
diameter and to 250 feet in height. The timber is mainly red
or yellow fir (Douglas), mingled with spruce, hemlock, and
cedar. The total amount of timber in the state is estimated
at 114,778,000,000 feet. Of this more than nine-tenths is
west of the Cascade Range, the remainder being upon its east-
ern slope and in the northern and eastern part of the state.
East of the Cascade Range the forests consist mainly of pine,
and west of the Cascade Range the Douglas fir forms nearly
two-thirds of the entire forest. The stand is heaviest in Skagit
County ; the next heaviest is in Wahkiakum County. In west-
ern Washington the average stand is 18,000 feet per acre; in
eastern Washington it is but 1,200 feet. The entire area of
the nineteen counties of western Washington is 24,900 square
miles. Of this area, but little more than one-third is regarded
as containing merchantable timber, twenty per cent has been
cut, 22.5 per cent has been destroyed by fire, and the remainder,
57.5 per cent is still covered with standing timber. It appears
that since lumbering began in this region there have been cut
from it 36,000,000,000 feet, that destroyed by fire amounting
to 40,000,000,000 feet, with about the same proportion in east-
ern Washington. Upon the west shores of Puget Sound, and
as far southward as the Columbia River, as well as throughout
the eastern slope of the Cascade Range, the forests are prac-
tically of Douglas fir. Spruce is most abundant immediately
upon the coast ; cedar increases westward, toward the coast,
and reaches a maximum immediately on the coast, where it
ranges from one-half to one-fourth of the forest. Hemlock
forms quite a noticeable proportion of the forests in the coast
ranges and in the northwestern part of the Olympic Peninsula.
Professor Gannett's estimate of the standing timber of the state
is as follows: Fir, 68,362,971,000; cedar, 16,309,453,000;
hemlock, 14,848,259,000; pine, 6,586,520,000; spruce, 6,419,-
215,000; larch, 2,780,601,000; Oak, 3,700,000.

The fir timber is manufactured into lumber and shipped to
California, Alaska, and many parts of the world by water.
This timber has nearly as great a tenacity as oak ; the cedar is
manufactured into shingles and shipped to all parts of the
United States, having gained a great reputation for durability.
The other timber is used in various ways, and the hemlock is
about to be used for tanning. The largest number of mills in the

WASHINGTON

181

state are located in Snohomish County. The total number of
mills in the state at the last estima*^'" was 444, with a daily
capacity of 9,380,000 feet of lumber and 28,700,000 shingles.
In the entire industries there were employed in mills, logging
camps and allied industries, 24,000 men, receiving $14,260,000
in annual wages. The 1900 census gives the lumber traffic as
follows : Domestic, water, and rail shipments, over 380,000,000
feet; foreign, over 155,000,000 feet; 270 shingle mills are
making cedar shingles, with a daily capacity of 29,000,000.
Shingle shipment for the year 1900 was 3,560,100,000. Exten-

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DRAWING IN THE SEINE.

sive forest reserves have been made by the United States gov-
ernment, and the patrol of these will no doubt add to the safety
of the present standing merchantable timber.

Mining. — Valuable deposits of the different metals exist in
both eastern and western Washington, but so far the develop-
ment has been slow as compared with other mining states.
There are known mineral belts extending from the Blue Moun-
tains to the northern counties and from Stevens County across
to Whatcom and Bellingham Bay and all along the Cascades.
In Stevens and Ferry counties, where the Republic Mines are
located, in Okanogan, where active work is progressing, in

182 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Chelan and in Kittitas, mines have been producing since 1872.
Ledges have been found in Pierce, Lewis and CowHtz counties.
The Mount Baker and Slate Creek districts are very active,
producing free gold with some tellurium. Skagit County has
some promising silver and lead mines. Snohomish County has
the copper belt, which is supposed to cross the state north and
south, and new and large districts have been found at Mount
St. Helens. At Monte Cristo a concentrator, capable of han-
dling 250 tons per day, is now in operation. There are a large
number of mines in this district. The Great Republic and
other mines are located in the Miller district in King County.
The great trouble in most of these counties has been the lack
of transportation. When roads are built the mining industry
will take on a new impetus. The iron in Skagit and Snohomish
counties is very extensive. Excellent building sandstone is
found in inexhaustible quantities north of Spokane and near
the sound, notably at Tenino.

The state is rich in bituminous coal, and in 1902 there were
mined 2,418,034 tons. It is of high grade and is shipped by
water, largely to the south, supplying California and some
foreign markets. At Roslyn, Kittitas County, there were em-
ployed 1,090 men in 1900, and the mines produced 867,204
tons. King County, with fourteen mines, produced 853,-
295 tons. Pierce County has six mines, which produced
595,605 tons. Skagit and Whatcom counties produced 56,830
tons.

Fisheries. — The fishing industry is one of the principal re-
sources of the state of Washington, having in 1900 an in-
vested capital of $4,362,470, employing nearly 8,000 persons,
who earned $2,121,485. The value of the output was $4,357,-
753. The output has exceeded $6,000,000 in a single year.
This, of course, refers to the salmon fisheries and canneries.
The cannery at Fairhaven is claimed to be the largest in the
world. The salmon migration to the spawning grounds, at the
sources of the rivers, occurs during the spring, summer and
fall months, a different variety running each season. Enor-
mous schools of salmon then enter the Sound and rush up the
river. The salmon are caught for the canneries chiefly in
traps and with gill nets. The trap is a bewildering arrange-
ment of piling, wire webbing, nets and ropes, to form the
"lead," the "pot, ' the "tunnel," the "harts" and the "spiller,"
and must be seen to be understood. After they are in the trap,
the salmon are "brailed" by steam into scows by hundreds,

WASHINGTON

183

which are towed to the canneries. They are put up in cans
after being cooked, largely by Chinese help, and shipped to all
parts of the world, London taking perhaps the largest share.
The salmon is really the king fish of the Pacific Coast, but
there are many other fish which are caught and shipped to San
Francisco and other markets in the east. Halibut fishing off
Cape Flattery is carried on very extensively. Shell-fish abound
in the waters, and the oyster industry and the canning of clams
is considerable. The native oyster beds are located at Olympia ;
the oyster is very small, very sweet and palatable, and is in

« WESTERN FREIGHT TEAM.

great demand. At Willapa Harbor and on the Sound eastern
oysters have been planted and grown with success.

The State Fish Commissioner reports twenty-one canneries
operating in Puget Sound in 1902, five on the Columbia River,
Washington side ; three on Willapa Harbor, and one on Grays
Harbor. There were 7,615 whites and 2,055 Chinese and Jap-
anese employed in the fish industry— which includes fresh,
smoked and shelled fish — whose earnings amounted to $2,500.-
000. The total output was 777,484 cases, and the value $4^034!-
685. To avoid the depletion of the salmon, hatcheries have
been established in the Puget Sound district on the Nook-
sachk, Skokomish, Samish, Snohomish, White, Nisqually, Stil-
laguamish and Dungeness rivers and the Columbia River dis-

184 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

trict at Kalama, Kalama eyeing station, Chinook, Wenatchee,
Wind, Methow, Colville, Little Spokane, Klickitat, and on the
coast, at Willapa and Chehalis. The number of young fry
hatched and turned out in 1902 was 84,518,405.

COUNTIES.

Stevens County. — This county is the most northeasterly
county of the state, and has an area of 3,800 square miles and
a population of 10,543. It embraces a part of the Selkirk range
of mountains of British Columbia, and its topography is broken
by wooded hills and ranges. The county is divided into three
districts. The Columbia River forms a greater part of the
western boundary, its valley varying from three to fifteen miles
in width. Here horticulture is practiced very successfully.
The Colville and branch valleys extend through the center of
the county, from three to five miles in width, and are noted for
stockraising. Grain and fruit do well. In the eastern part
of the county is the Pend d'Oreille Valley, which is noted for
its natural meadows, and is very attractive to those desiring
to enter the dairying industry. The scenic beauty of the Box
Canyon of this river is unrivaled. Good government land on
the benches and smaller valleys may yet be obtained. Timber
is abundant, and sawmills are in operation. There are several
water powers which can be developed. Kettle Falls, of the Co-
lumbia, which has a descent of thirty-five feet, with its immense
volume of water, makes one of the largest water powers in
the west. The Falls of the Pend d'Oreille have been utilized.
Myers Falls, on the Colville, inside of one-eighth of a mile, de-
scends 185 feet, and the main falls eighty feet. There is a
sawmill and flouring mill at the latter falls, but otherwise they
are undeveloped.

The Great Northern Railway extends the entire length of
the Colville Valley, and continues north along the Columbia
River to Nelson, B. C. It also crosses the Columbia River at
the mouth of the Kettle River, and follows the latter to the
boundary line and countrv on the new route to A^ancouver,
B. C.

The Metaline mining district, in the northeastern part, is the
largest, though there is considerable mineral development in
dift'erent parts. There is a smelter at Northport. The mineral
region seems to be part of the rich Columbia district to the
north. Marble and onyx have been discovered in paying quan-

WASHINGTON

185

titles near Valley and other localities. Perhaps no place in the
Northwest afifords the sportsman a better opportunity for
hunting the mountain lion, cougar, elk, bear and deer, several
varieties of each being represented ; caribou are also found,
and trout are plentiful. Colville, the county seat, is an impor-
tant mining center, and has churches, a bank, a newspaper and
several sawmills. Population, 1, 060. Clayton is the seat of a
large pottery establishment, Northport of a smelting plant,
while Kalispell and Colville have creameries.

Ferry County lies along the boundary line west of Stevens

INDI.\N CA.MP, SPOKANE Rr\'ER.

County, and has a population of 4,552. The county is moun-
tainous ; the chief industry has been mining, and the section
is very rich in minerals, the Republic district being especially
celebrated. The Great Northern has been built to Republic
from Grand Forks, and mining has received a great impetus.
The southern part of the county is still in the Colville Indian
Reservation. The Sans Foil River runs south to the Columbia
through a considerable part of the county, many small streams
run eastward to the Columbia, and the Kettle River, coming in
from British Columbia, drains the northern part of the county,
makes a big bend, passing out again and then returning, thus
forming the eastern boundary to the Columbia River. The

186 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Boundary Country, north and south of the boundary Hne, is
rich in minerals and has some good agricultural valleys, espe-
cially along the Kettle River. All cereals are grown, and
bunch grass affords good pasturage. Grand Forks, on the
Great Northern, the junction of the branches of the Kettle
River, is the most promising town, while Republic, the county
seat of Ferry County, is the liveliest place in all the upper
territory and has a population of 3,318.

Okanogan County. — This county lies along the boundary
line between Ferry County and the summit of the Cascades
on the west. It has an area of 4,300 square miles and a popu-
lation of 4,689. The southern half of the county is still included
in the Colville Indian Reservation, but is open to mining. The
two main rivers of the county are the Okanogan, which is quite
a large river, rising in British Columbia and receiving the Samil-
kameen soon after they each enter the United States, and run-
ning nearly in a southerly direction to the Columbia ; and the
Methow River, which rises in the Cascades, near the boundary,
and runs in a generally southerly course, entering the Columbia
below the mouth of Okanogan on the west. The county for the
most part is mountainous, and its wealth consists chiefly in
its mineral deposits, its timber lands and its stock ranges. It
has considerable timber, consisting of pine, fir, cedar, larch
and tamarack ; the foothills of the Cascades are heavily tim-
bered. The valley of the Okanogan River embraces about
one-third of the county. The tillable lands consist of the river
bottoms proper and the benches, which are very fertile ; irri-
gation is required in the valley, but the high lands in the eastern
part of the county have sufficient rain. Several mines are being
operated in the county, and many others will be developed as
soon as the proposed extension of the Great Northern Railway
is made up the valley of the Columbia River. On the Twitsp
River, a branch of the Methow, good coal is found.

Conconully, the county seat, is now reached by Columbia
River boats from Wenatchee and connecting stage lines. In
addition to the proposed Great Northern line referred to, an-
other line contemplated is through the northern part of the
county, crossing the Okanogan River at Oroville and con-
tinuing up the valley of the Samilkameen. This would traverse
the line of Bonaparte Creek.

As only the north half of the Colville Reservation, occupy-
ing the north half of Ferry and Okanogan counties, is open
to settlement, it will be treated with the county. This territory

WASHINGTON

187

188 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

is about seventy miles in length, east and west, and about thirty-
five miles north and south ; the eastern half is mountainous and
the agricultural valleys small ; the western half is a combination
of mountain, hill, tableland and valley. Mount Bonaparte being
the center. The Okanogan Valley is 800 feet above sea level ;
the table lands have about 3,500 feet elevation. The soil is
varied ; in the valley it is generally sandy, being in some places
a volcanic ash and in others a wash. Along the larger creek
valleys it is a wash, often with gravel sub-soil ; on the table-
lands it is a deep, black loam, where bunch grass grows abun-
dantly. The climate of the Okanogan Valley is mild in winter,
but to the eastward it is higher, more moist and colder.

Spokane County. — This is the most easterly of the second
tier of counties lying east of the Cascade Mountains. It has
an area of 1,680 square miles, and a population of 57,542. Its
topography is hilly in the southern and broken and mountainous
in the northern part, with numerous streams flowing through
deep ravines. Its principal stream is the Spokane River, which
rises in Idaho, runs in a generally northwest course to the Co-
lumbia, and at Spokane descends in a series of falls, afford-
ing a magnificent water power. The southern portion of the
county is well adapted to agriculture and a large acreage is
devoted to wheat raising. Horticulture is an important indus-
try, several thousand acres being set out to orchards, which
produce a fine quality of fruit. There are about 75,000 acres
of irrigated land in the county, mostly near the city of Spokane.
Horse and cattle raising and dairying are important indus-
tries. Two creameries in the county manufactured in 1900
nearly 300,000 pounds of butter and 138,000 pounds of cheese.

A remarkable feature of this county is Medical Lake, which
is situated at an altitude of 2,800 feet, and is a very popular
resort, owing to the medicinal qualities of its waters. The East-
ern Washington Hospital for the Insane is located here. This
lake is reached by the Northern Pacific.

The Great Northern Railway and the Northern Pacific tra-
verse this county from east to west, and a branch of the Great
Northern runs to Nelson, in British Columbia, and to the Boun-
dary Country. The Oregon Railway & Navigation Company
connects Spokane with the Oregon Short Line at Huntington
and the Southern Pacific line at Portland, Ore.

At Cheney is located the State Normal School, and at Wa-
verley is the only beet sugar factory in the State of Washing-
ton.

WASHINGTON

180

190 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Spokane is the county seat of Spokane County, and has a
population of 36,848 (1900), being the third largest city of
the state, and the distributing point for all the country be-
tween the Rocky and Cascade Mountains, thereby earning its
title of the "Metropolis of the Inland Empire." In 1872 it was
nameless, with a population of three squatters and a few men
who worked in a primitive sawmill. Today it has a population
of 50,000 people, is handsomely built, well lighted and possesses
prominent modern business blocks, fine hotels, manufacturing
establishments, ninety miles of graded streets, the main thor-
oughfare being paved with asphalt; forty miles of street rail-
way, twenty-three bridges spanning the river, nineteen school
buildings, high grade schools, private colleges, two daily news-
papers— morning and evening — which have a wide circulation ;
nine weeklies and six monthlies. All the religious denom-
inations are represented. Its magnificent water power
has been developed and is capable of operating many large
factories. Electric power is furnished large flour and saw-
mills, iron works, foimdries and factories, and is also trans-
ferred to the Coeur d'Alene mines and other places a hundred
miles distant.

The city is situated in a beautiful valley 1,900 feet above sea
level, and is as much a residence as it is a manufacturing and
jobbing city. The climate is very healthful, the highest temper-
ature being 104°, in i8g8, and the lowest of later years 13°, in
1896, or a mean of 48° The annual average precipitation was
18.17 inches. The city has been prosperous agriculturally,
commercially and in the mines, the Inland Empire producing
annually $25,000,000 from its mines and nearly $20,000,000
from its wheat. The Interstate Fair, which is held annually
at Spokane, bears evidence of the high-grade products of the
territory.

It is estimated that during the month of March, 1902, 10,000
people came to the Inland Empire to look for homes, and that
during the month of April of the same year 6,830 stopped at
Spokane. Much land has been taken up, but it is estimated
that there is a large amount yet lying in Douglas and Okanogan
counties which is available.

The magnificent water power in the heart of the city, with
the mines to east and the north and the Palouse and the Big
Bend countries to the south and west, certainly promise Spo-
kane a bright future. It must be the railroad center, the bank-
ing center and the commercial center of this region.

WASHINGTON

191

192 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Lincoln County. — This county lies west of Spokane, has an
area of 2,300 square miles and a population of 11,969. The
county is traversed by the Great Northern and Northern Pa-
cific railroads. The southwestern part of the county is com-
paratively level, but near the Spokane and Columbia rivers
there appear many ridges that are covered with timber. The
soil is good in all parts of the county, and splendid crops of
wheat, oats, barley, rye and the other cereals and the hardier
fruits are grown. This county divides with Whitman County
the title of being the banner wheat county of the United States,
each having alternately produced the largest crop, the crop for
1902 being estimated at 7,500,000, or about 900 bushels for
every man, woman and child in the county ; this would be
about $450 per capita.

Davenport, the county seat, is situated on the Northern Pa-
cific Railway, and has a population of 2,000. Other towns are
Wilbur, Odessa, Harrington and a number of smaller ones.

Douglas County. — This county is situated west of Lincoln
County, has an area of 4,500 square miles, and a population of
4,926. It is a prairie county, the eastern part being a high,
level plateau of about 2,500 feet elevation, with a mild cli-
mate and a sufficient moisture to raise crops without irrigation.
In some parts of the county water cannot be obtained except at
a considerable depth, and not long ago large areas could have
been bought for a song which today are bringing $10 per acre,
and are raising bountiful crops.

The two coulees traversing this county from northeast to
southwest, the larger one being known as Grand Coulee, and
extending for a distance of sixty miles, with walls from 200
to 1,000 feet in height and from three to five miles in width, are
topographical features which attract widespread attention. It
is the geological theory that these coulees are the prehistoric
beds of the Columbia River. There are many interesting things
to be seen in Grand Coulee ; among them is the Steamboat
Rock, which resembles a steamboat, and rises 1,000 feet in the
air, being three miles in length and a half a mile in width. Near
the head of the coulee is Soap Lake, about a quarter of a mile
in width, with water most beautiful to the sight, but very
repulsive to the taste. It will cleanse soiled clothes without
soap, and seems to have some remarkable medicinal qualities.

This county is the very heart of the basaltic region, and in
many places where its cliffs are picturesque it looks uninviting
from an agricultural standpoint. The soil is disintegrated lava,

WASHINGTON

193

194 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

and has the characteiistic of producing a crop of from twenty-
five to fift}' bushels per acre without rain from seed time to
harvest. The soil in many instances here is sixty feet in depth.
In the southern part of the county on the lowlands large herds
of cattle and horses graze. This should make a good section
for irrigating. All the valleys bear fruit, and there are many
fine orchards. There is an opportunity to obtain some govern-
ment land in this county or to buy cheap lands at second hand
in the western part. The Great Northern Railway crosses
the whole county from east to west, and the Northern Pacific
branch is extended westward from Spokane to Pilot Rock, near
the center. This county and Lincoln County, with Franklin
and Adams to the south, are known as the Big Bend Country.
Waterville, the county seat, is situated in the western part
of the county, six miles from the Columbia River, and is reached
by stage line from Wenatchee. It has a sawmill, bank, graded
school, three weekly papers and a population of 875.

Chelan County. — This county lies mainly west of Douglas
County, has an area of 2,000 square miles, and a population of
3,931. It lies on the eastern slope of the Cascade Mountains,
extending down to the Columbia River, covering Lake Chelan
and the Entiat and Wenatchee valleys. The latter valley is
used by the Great Northern Railway in making the rise from
the Columbia River to the summit of the Cascade on its way
to Puget Sound.

The Wenatchee Valley is famous for its fruits and vege-
tables. The orchards produce very large and perfect fruit,
including apples, apricots, peaches, grapes, pears and plums.
These are shipped to Sound points, and as far east as St. Paul
and Chicago. There is quite a snowfall in the foothills, but
irrigation is required in the valley, where the soil is very rich,
and the valley is well protected. There is ample water, and
several ditches are diverted with other large ones. The high
line ditch of the Wenatchee Canal Company takes water twenty
miles above the mouth of the river, and is able to supply water
for the entire valley lands. This ditch cost $175,000, has one
tunnel 800 feet long and several long distances of flume. The
valley contains about 50,000 acres of irrigable land, of which
about 5,000 or less are as yet under cultivation. This valley
has no frost, and raises peaches, melons, tomatoes and straw-
berries, and the earliness of the crops makes good prices. The
lands under the ditch are being offered at from $150 to $200 per

WASHINGTON

195

:±^jil^

TLUME OF THE HIGH LINE DITCH, WENATCHEE VALLEY, WASHINGTON.

196 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

acre ; bee culture is coming into the valley, and tobacco prom-
ises to be a successful product.

The town of Wenatchee, situated at the junction of the
Wenatchee and Columbia rivers, is the county seat, and is said
to be within a mile of the exact center of the state. To-day it
has a population of about 1,500. In 1902 it shipped 1,000,000
bushels of wheat, brought down the Columbia River by steam-
boat. To receive this and other freight there are large ware-
houses at this point, as the steamboating of the upper Columbia
begins here. The city has a fine brick school building and
courthouse, a 250-barrel flour mill, and some good residences.
This being the shipping point on the Great Northern for a
vast country to the north, as many as 1,000 boxes of fruit have
been waiting at the depot for a shipment by express in one day.

Mission, a very romantically situated town on the Great
Northern, sixteen miles above Wenatchee, is a great fruit cen-
ter. This town has had a wonderful growth, and now supports
several stores, a sawmill, a bank, etc. Leavenworth, farther
up the valley, is the end of the Mountain Division of the Great
Northern Railway.

The length of the Entiat Valley is about seventy-five miles,
and one-half of its length is available for homes. The most of
the land has been taken, but it can be bought for reasonable
prices.

Lake Chelan lies in the foothills of the Cascade Mountains,
is 1,075 f^6t above sea level, sixty-five miles long, with a width
of from one to four miles and a depth of 1,500 feet, and its
waters are as clear as crystal. This lake is becoming quite a
noted summer resort, the grand scenery, high mountains, snow-
capped peaks reflected in the water, and the ever-changing
scene making a trip very enchanting. The lake is open to nav-
igation at all seasons of the year, for it never freezes. There
is a hotel at the head of the lake to accommodate the public,
and there are also good camping grounds at various points and
at the head of the lake within sight of the glaciers. The only
level lands are near the lower end of the lake. The soil is very
productive in everything, especially fruit, as the climate and its
general sheltered condition make everything favorable to hor-
ticulture.

There is a wide mineral belt in this county, which bids fair
to have great value in gold and copper. The lake empties into
the Columbia through the Chelan River, which has a fall of
400 feet, with a tremendous volume of water, making one of

WASHINGTON

197

198 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

the finest water powers in the country, and which is now being
developed. Chelan Falls, at the mouth of the Chelan River,
is a shipping point for Big Bend wheat. Lakeside is the
foot of navigation on the lake. Chelan is on the river by the
same name, and is an incorporated town. Stehekin is situated
at the head of the lake.

Whitman County and the Palouse Country. — Whitman
is the most easterly of the third tier of counties, is bounded on
the north by Spokane and the south by the Snake River, and,
with Latah County, Idaho, covers the valley of the Palouse
River, and forms what is known as the Palouse Country. The
county was named for Dr. Marcus Whitman, the missionary,
and has an area of 2,262 square miles. In 1900 it had a popu-
lation of 25,360, but many settlers having since then come in,
the population is now more than 30,000. Practically all the
land is tillable, and more than one-half is under cultivation.
The elevation in the western part is about 1,100 feet, gradually
rising in the eastern part to 2,600 feet, which gives a rainfall
ranging from twelve to thirty inches. The surface consists of
an upland plateau, of rolling prairie or hills and valleys, which
is far-famed for its wheat production, this county for a long
time being known as the banner wheat county, which title it
now divides with Lincoln County, in the Big Bend Country.
Oats, barley, cattle, horses, hogs and fruit all do well, as do
apples, prunes, plums, pears and hardy peaches. There are
many thrifty orchards in this county.

Professor Dumas, of the Agricultural College at Pullman,
gives the following as the cost of a four-year-old orchard, with
land at $25 per acre, the trees commencing to bear at four
years :

Land $25 00

Compound interest four years at 8 per cent 9 00

$34 00

FIKST YEAR.

Plowing and siibsoiling $ 2 50

1 10 trees 9 00

Staking and setting trees 3 50

Cultivating 75

Pruning ' 25

Compound interest four years at 8 per cent S 76

$21 76

WASHINGTON

199

LAKE CHELAN. WASHLNGTON.

200 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

SECOND YEAR.

10 trees $ 80

Setting trees 35

Cultivating i 00

Pruning i 00

Compound interest three years at 8 per cent 82

$ 3 97

THIRD YEAR.

S trees $ 50

Setting trees 25

Cultivating i 00

Pruning I 00

Budding 55 trees i 00

Compound interest two years 60

$ 4 35

FOURTH YEAR.

Pruning $ i 50

Budding i 00

Cultivating i 00

5 trees and setting 75

Interest one year 34

$4 59
Total cost per acre, $68.67.

This being the very center of the great grain fields, it may be
well to state that everything here is done on a grand scale in
plowing, sowing, harvesting and threshing, with a climate that
admits of the harvest being continued and the sacks being left
in the fields until the harvesting and threshing are completed.
With these methods, the cost of raising wheat is much less than
in the east, where it is stacked immediately in fear of rain.
The Spokesman-Review gives the cost of raising wheat'on the
Columbia Plateau as seventeen cents per bushel and mar-
keting five cents per bushel, or a total of twenty-two cents.
But the average cost is generally figured at from twenty-four
to twenty-eight cents. Wheat has stood in price in Eastern
Washington at from forty-eight to fifty-six cents, so that the
profit of the farmer has been about 100 per cent. The average
yield per acre is given throughout the whole region, both good
and bad, as 23.5 bushels per acre. Here it varies, spring wheat
ranging generally from twenty to thirty bushels, in solitary in-
stances much more. Winter wheat yields ordinarily much more
than spring wheat, but sometimes the yield is reversed. The
range is wide, twenty bushels being considered low, thirty
good and forty very good, while both spring and winter wheat

WASHINGTON

201

202 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

sometimes yield fifty and sixty bushels to the acre. Summer
fallowed land produces nearly as much in one season as con-
tinuously cultivated land does in two. There is no cjuestion but
that these favored regions of the Inland Empire surpass any
other in the United States for the economical production of
wheat.

W. J. Spillman, professor of agriculture at Pullman, says
that the soil has been formed by the disintegration of lava or
basalt, with which it is everywhere underlaid, and is wholly
unlike anything in the east. In laboratory experiments he
found that to saturate it with water it would absorb from forty-
five to fifty per cent. This great capacity for water, which he
says does not exist at depth, explains the apparent phenomenon
of growing crops without additional rain from springtime to
harvest. Professor M. W. Harrington, of the United States
Weather Bureau, states that the soil is perpetually fertile, and
that in the whole world he knows of but one locality which has
a similar soil, and that is in the northern part of Cliina, in the
two provinces of Shansi and Shensi, west of Pekin. There it
has been cultivated and has remained unchanged for 4,000
years. The United States Agricultural Department gives the
wheat crop for 1902 of the three states as follows: Washing-
ton, 23,672,187 bushels; Idaho (estimated), 4,000,000, and
Oregon, 15,512,460 bushels, or a total of 43,184,647 bushels.
As the Agricultural Department has shown the wheat crop of
the United States to be a little over 500,000,000, it will be
s£en that the crop of the Inland Empire, which produces most
all of the wheat of the three states, is nearly one-tenth of that
amount. Whitman and Lincoln counties are the largest, and
produce nearly an equal amount. Walla Walla is third, Adams
fourth, Douglas fifth and Spokane, which is the last of the
million-bushel counties, sixth. The wheat is marketed in jute
sacks, made mostly in Calcutta, but some being made at the
penitentiary at Walla Walla, each holding, approximately, 140
pounds. The grain never leaves the sack from the time it is
put into it on the field until it is delivered at its destination in
the different foreign countries, most of it going to Liverpool.

The Oregon Railway & Navigation Company crosses this
county from north to south, and is now building a line up the
Snake River Valley. The Northern Pacific crosses the county
from east to west. Colfax, the county seat, is situated on the
Palouse River and the Oregon Railway & Navigation Com-
pany, and has a population at present of 3,500. It is a wealthy

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203

204 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

city, has good hotels, churches, a $60,000 waterworks plant, a
Baptist college, fine courthouse and St. Ignatius' Hospital. At
Pullman is located the State Agricultural College, and there
are numerous artesian wells in this locality. Palouse and Farm-
ington, in the extreme eastern part of the county, are rising
cities.

Adams County. — This county is located directly west of
Whitman County, south of Lincoln and Douglas counties, and
partakes of the same characteristics, but it lies at a lower ele-
vation, and consequently has less rainfall, ten inches being
about the average. It nevertheless is fourth in the wheat pro-
ducing counties of the state, and in 1902 produced nearly 3,-
000,000 bushels. Its soil is a volcanic ash, from one foot to 200
feet in depth. Colville Lake, in the northeastern part of the
county, is a large reservoir, and can be used for irrigation pur-
poses. The area of this countv is 2,400 square miles, and it has
a population of 4,840. Richville, the county seat, on the North-
ern Pacific, is a growing town, its population in 1900 being 761.

Franklin County. — This county lies south of Adams
County, is of the same character, but still lower in elevation,
the Columbia and Snake river valleys bounding it on the south
and west, so it may be said that it is the very bottom of the
Columbia Basin. It is a semi-arid county, but is seventh in
production of wheat, coming next to Spokane. Its volcanic soil
shows its moisture-holding qualities, when its wheat crop
reaches three-quarters of a million bushels, with less than ten
inches of rainfall annually. Along the river valleys are splen-
did alfalfa fields and fine orchards, where irrigation is in prog-
ress. A branch of the Oregon Railway & Navigation Com-
pany connects with the Northern Pacific Railway at Connell.
The Northern Pacific Railway runs north and south through
the county, crossing the Columbia River at Pasco, the county
seat, which is the only town of any size in the county.

YakiiM.v axd Kittitas Counties. — These counties lie be-
tween the Columbia River on the east and the summit of the
Cascade Mountains on the west. Kittitas County is bounded
by Chelan County on the north. The counties cover the entire
valley of the Yakima River and its tributaries, and topograph-
ically they consist of valley table lands and rolling hills, sloping
from the hills to the mountain summit. Spurs of the Cascades
divide the main valleys into smaller valleys, each being supplied
with a mountain stream. The mountains are covered with
timber, and the valleys with bunch grass and sage brush. Ya-

WASHINGTON

205

kima County has an area of 5,500 square miles and a population
of 13,462 ; Kittitas, 2,000 square miles and a population of
9,704. The Northern Pacific Railway traverses these counties
with its main line along the Yakima Valley in a northeasterly
direction, making the ascent to the summit of the Cascades and
Stampede Tunnel, elevation 3,698 feet. The soil is a volcanic
ash, with some wash soil mixed.

In these counties irrigation has been practiced for some time.
Originally the valley was a great cattle range, but irrigation
today has changed it
to numerous farms,
with diversified crops
of alfalfa, hops, fruits,
wheat, tobacco, sor-
ghum and vegetables
Though Whitman
County takes the lead
in horses and cattle,
Yakima County takes
the lead in sheep, in
1900 138,222 sheep
being grazed on its
ranges. Between the
Yakima River and
Klickitat County,
near Prosser, is a
high table land, cov-
ered with bunch
grass, which is called
Horse Heaven. Wa-
ter cannot be obtained
under 400 feet, so it
is still used as a great
range. The irrigation ditches already perfected, of which the
Sunnyside is the largest in Yakima County, and the large one
in Kittitas, projected at a cost of nearly $500,000, will enable
the people to live from small farms, thus giving better care to
the land and receiving better results. Fruit growing here has
already reached wonderful perfection. The fruit is very large
and sound and brings good prices. Every variety is success-
fully grown, and the orchardists are becoming ric^ from this
product. The Yakima Indian Reservation occupies a large
share of the southwestern part of the county. The Yakimas

VAKIMA CANYON AND RIVER.

206 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

are a very unthrifty race, but have lately leased water rights
and are beginning to accomplish something.

There are ten creameries in the two counties, which in 1900
manufactured three-fourths of a million pounds of butter.
There are a number of promising mining districts located along
the Cascades, especially in Kittitas County. The famous Cle-
Elum coal district and Rosslyn mines have been spoken of in
the general matter, also the iron mines.

Ellensburg is the county seat of Kittitas County, on the
Yakima River and the Northern Pacific Railway. It has an
electric light plant, street railway system, rolling mills, sash and
door factories, sawmills, etc. North Yakima, the county seat
of Yakima County, is located on the Northern Pacific Railway
near the river. It is the center of much business enterprise and
diversified farming. It is growing and prosperous, and has a
very metropolitan air. Seventy-five good buildings, many of
them brick, were erected in 1902. The state fair is held there
annually, the grounds being excellerit, and it is said to have
the best race track in the state.

Lands along the valley ditches devoted to fruit are worth
from $100 to $300 per acre. There are quite a number of other
towns in these counties of moderate size.

Asotin, Garfield and Columbia Counties. — These coun-
ties lie in the southeastern part of the state, Asotin bordering
on Idaho and all three bordering on Oregon. Asotin has an
area of only 640 square miles, and a population of 3,366; Gar-
field, 672 square miles and a population of 3,918; Columbia,
830 squares miles and a population of 7,128. These counties
lie partially in the Blue Mountains, which are heavily cov-
ered with timber. The northern portions are prairie land, have
a volcanic sell and raise large quantities of wheat.

In Asotin County water is taken from the Snake River and
Asotin Creek for irrigation purposes. The large canal diverting
the water from the latter creek irrigates a considerable portion
of the valley which is known as Vineland, with headquarters
at Clarkston. It is a land of homes, in the midst of profitable
orchards and small garden farms. It is a very successful and
rapidly growing community. The city of Clarkston, opposite
Lewiston, Idaho, with which it is connected by a $110,000 steel
wagon bridge across the Snake River, just above its junction
with the Clearwater, is a prosperous town in this district. It
supports afiewspaper, a bank, a sanitarium, two general stores,
besides other stores representing the different lines, five

WASHINGTON

207

208 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

churches, some handsome residences and a park system. This
city is being built under certain regulations, one of which re-
quires all residences to be set twenty-five feet from the street
line, and another that no stores or shops of any kind are al-
lowed on the residence streets. In addition to the open canal
system, a pipe line waterworks system has been completed. In
time, with its beautiful location opposite the Nez Perces hills,
in the only wide part of the Snake River Valley, Clarkston will
be one of the most attractive towns of the Inland Empire.

The first orchard in this locality was planted in Asotin County
by Chief Red Wolf, of the Nez Perces tribe, from tree sprouts
given him by one of the missionaries. The Oregon Railway &
Navigation Company is building a line up the Snake River
Valley to this point. The river is navigated by boats through-
out most of the year. Asotin is the county seat of Asotin
County, situated on the Snake River at the mouth of Asotin
Creek. It has a population of 774. The county seat of Gar-
field County is Pomeroy, which has a population of 953, and is
reached by the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company. Day-
ton is the county seat of Columbia County, with a population of
2,216, and is also reached b}- the Oregon Railway & Navigation
Company. AH these counties have considerable stock, and
Garfield especially has immense grain yields.

Walla Walla County is another of the southern tier of
counties lying west of Columbia and bounded on the north and
west by the Snake and Columbia rivers. It has an area of
2,000 square miles; its population in 1900 was 18,680. It is
not only one of the oldest counties of the state, but one of the
most prosperous. It was settled by the Whitman missionary
party at Waiilatpu, seven miles from the present seat of Walla
Walla, in 1836, and the site of the mission and scene of the
massacre is now marked by a granite monument. The name
Walla Walla is from the Indian, meaning "many waters," or
"where waters meet." The Touchet River flows westward
from Columbia County and the Walla Walla and tributaries
from the south in the Blue Mountains in Oregon, all meeting
in this county and flowing into the Columbia at Wallula. The
country is gently rolling, sloping upward toward the Blue
Mountains ; the soil is volcanic, there is ample rainfall to in-
sure crops, and the climate is mild in winter. It has been occu-
pied and cultivated for a longer period than any other portion
of Washington, and has really been the pioneer of the grain and
fruit interests of the state. In early times it was entirely a

WASHINGTON

209

210 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

stock-growing country, but wheat farming followed, from 3,-
000,000 to 5,000,000 bushels Ijeing harvested annually; today,
however, 3,000 acres are devoted to fruit raising, with splen-
did results. One orchard alone consists of 1,000 acres.

In this county some records of "volunteer" crops of wheat
are almost beyond belief. In one instance four crops were
harvested, comprising respectively thirty-seven bushels, thirty
bushels, twenty bushels and twelve bushels per acre, or four
harvests amounting to ninety-nine bushels per acre in four con-
secutive years without seeding. Harvesting in Washington
and Oregon is a wonder to the eastern man. An immense ma-
chine, driven by steam or drawn by thirty-six horses, heads,
threshes, cleans and sacks at one operation forty acres of wheat
per day.

The Blue Mountains occupy ,the eastern and southern part
of the county. Walla Walla, the county seat, is located on the
Oregon Railway & Navigation Company and the Washington
& Columbia railroads, and in 1900 had a population of 10,047.
It is a city in every sense, has fine houses, several educational
institutions, good newspapers, a United States garrison, at
Fort Walla Walla, and the state penitentiary. Witsburg has
a population of 1,011 and an academic institution. There are
about 250 miles of railroad in the county, consisting largely of
the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company, the balance being
the Washington & Columbia Railway, a branch of the Northern
Pacific Railway.

Klickit.\t County. — This county lies west of Walla Walla,
south of Yakima County, and has a shore line on the Columbia
River for 120 miles. Its western boundary is practically the
summit of the Cascade range. Many small streams flow
through the county into the Columbia River on the south. The
principal river is the Klickitat, which rises between Mount
Adams and St. Helens. This river and its tributaries afford
many advantageous water powers, and its gorge makes a path-
way for the Columbia River & Northern Railway in its route
from Lyle to Goldendale. The county has an area of 3,000
square miles and a population of 6,407 by the 1900 census. The
Simcoe range of mountains separates the Klickitat Valley from
the Yakima Valley, from which the country gentlv slopes each
way. Although the northwest part of the county is mountain-
ous, about one-half of the county is susceptible of cultivation
and the balance is good grazing land. The part nearest the
Cascades gets ample rainfall, while its eastern half is semi-

WASHINGTON

211

212 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

arid. Klickitat is one of the largest wool-producing counties
in the state. Its principal crops are wheat and other cereals,
and timothy, with fruits, in the Columbia \'allev. X(j irriga-
tion is rec|uired, the soil is basaltic, but near the Cascades it
has quite an admixture with loam.

The Camas Prairie and Trout Lake communities are noted
for their cattle interests and their dairies, one of the latter mak-
ing over 5,000 pounds of butter during the past vear. This is
the former home of the Klickitat Indians, celebrated for their
romantic history and their baskets.

Goldendale, the county seat, is situated on the Little Klicki-
tat River and on the Columbia & Northern Railwa\'. In 1900 it
had a population of 738, and now probably has double that

GOLDENDALE, WAS If I NGTON.

number. It is a very enterprising town, with banks, churches,
good schools, an academy and two weekly papers. The river
affords power for several saw and flour mills, and an electric
light plant and waterworks are being established. There is
considerable timber in the higher parts of the county. In
going to Goldendale by all means get off at L}le and go by
rail. Do not, under any circumstances, attempt the stage line
and sand from Biggs. There are a number of other towns in
the county. Lyle, on the Columbia, is now the terminal of
the Columbia & Northern Railway ; connection is made here
with the Regulator line of steamers. It is a good point. Prices
of land in this county are very reasonable, and the Northern Pa-
cific has some patented lands unsold.

Whatcom County. — Beginning at the British Columbia
line on the western side of the Cascades the first county is

WASHINGTON

213

Whatcom. This county extends from the Gulf of Georgia and
Puget Sound on the west to the summit of tlie Cascades on
the east. It has an area of 2,000 square miles, and a popula-
tion of 24,116. The larger part of the county is mountainous.
The Skagit River, which rises in British Columbia, flows south
through the eastern part of the county, but the main river is
the Nooksachk, which flows westward through the main part
of the countv into Bellingham Bay. The bottom land along
this river is very rich and produces immense crops of hay,
vegetables, hops and fruit. The second bottom lands make
good fruit lands. The Sumas Valley is very level and fertile.
The great resource of this county has been timber, which has

SHIPBUILDING, WHATCOM.

been cut into lumber and shingles at Sumas and other places,
but largely at Bellingham Bay. Mount Baker, always snow-
clad, rears its head 11,100 feet above the sea, and is the great
landmark of this county from all directions. In the Mount
Baker district valuable minerals have been discovered, and
mines and mills are in operation. The coal mines at Blue Can-
yon are well developed. There are sixty-three saw and shingle
mills in the county, some of which have a large foreign trade.
The fishing industry has developed to a remarkable degree, and
is now one of the chief sources of revenue. The Pacific Navi-
gation & Packing Company operates three canneries, with a
capacity of 360,000 cases of salmon annually. These are con-

214

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

sidered the largest in the world. • The county has fifteen can-
neries all told.

The Great Xorthern Railway, or Shore Line, runs north-
ward through the county to Blaine, and continues on to Van-
couver, which is the terminus. The Northern Pacific runs
north and south through the county, connecting at Sumas with
the Canadian Pacific. The Bellingham Bay & British Columbia
runs east and west through the county, as a great logging and
commercial road, and is now building up the north fork of the
Nooksachk River. Steamers connect with the principal cities
by water.

Whatcom and Fairhaven, with Seahome lying between, have
a combined population of 14,000, and cover the entire shore

i ." " , ■ ■ ■

""" '""^

Ii^^QKa

- . '-■ •^''■'~- V"- V'*!^;

— ^

WHATCOM.

fine of Bellingham Bay. Street cars connect the two cities,
running every few minutes ; they have electric lights and other
improvements, while harmony exists between them in working
toward a common end. The value of the lumber exports of
this bay annually is over two and a half million dollars, and the
salmon industry over one and a half million dollars, to say noth-
ing of logs, coal and other products. The oyster business has
been established, and shipbuilding has reached quite a stage,
two vards being at present in operation. Besides a large tin
can manufactory, there are brickyards, creameries, fertilizer
works and other manufacturing interests operated on this bay,
in all eniploving 4,297 men. Bellingham Bay has a fine harbor
and enjoys a large commerce. Whatcom is the county seat.

WASHINGTON

215

Blaine is the most nortliwesterl}- city of the United States,
and is situated on the Great Northern Railway and Semiahmoo
Ba}' on the Gulf of Georgia. It has lumber mills, shingle mills,
a crab cannery and five salmon canneries. This is one of the
greatest of the salmon fishing districts, and many canneries are
farther up on the Frazer River, there being forty-two within
twenty miles of its mouth.

Near the beach on the north side of Blaine is an iron monu-
ment, four feet high and six inches square at the base, tapering
to three inches at the top. On the north side of it are the words
"Treaty of Washington." On the south side, "June 15, 1846."
This marks the 49° of latitude and the final settlement of the
boundary dispute. The boundary extends out to the main chan-

FAIRHAVEN .\ND WHATCOM.

nel in the gulf, thence down through Harro Straits to the Strait
of Juan de Fuca, and from there to the sea. Other towns in the
county are Nooksachk, Sumas, Enterprise and Wickersham.

Skagit County lies south of Whatcom County, and extends
from the Sound to the summit of the Cascades on the east. It
has an area of 1,800 square miles and a population of 14,272.
The county is drained its whole length east and west by the
Skagit River and its tributary, the Sauk. The valleys and the
tide marsh lands at the mouth, known as the Swinomish flats,
a large part of which have been diked, are the most productive
lands in the county. On these flats are some splendid farms.
In 1900 the county produced over one and a half million bush-
els of oats. Hops, hay, vegetables and fruits all flourish. This

216 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

is one of the richest agricultural counties in western Washing-
ton, and has the largest amount of standing timber.

The Skagit River is navigable for a considerable distance
from its mouth, and the Northern Pacific Railway extends from
Anacortes, on Fidalgo Island, to Hamilton, and also runs north
and south through the county. The Great Northern runs north
and south near the shore line. There are coal mines at Hamil-
ton, also iron deposits of some value, and there is a good min-
eral zone in the southeastern part of the county. Sawmilling is
the chief industry, but fishing has become an important factor.
Several canneries are located at Anacortes, and there are nine
creameries in the county.

Mount Vernon is the county seat, located on the.Skagit River
and the Great Northern Railway, and has a population of 1,020.
La Connor is the oldest town in the county, with a population
of 1,082. Anacortes has a population of 1,083. Sedro-Woolley
is a railroad junction and mill town. Hamilton is a coal and
river town.

San Juan County is composed entirely of islands lying in
the Sound between' Vancouver Island and Whatcom and Skagit
counties. The area is 500 square miles and population 2,928.
The principal islands are San Juan, Orcas, Lopez, Stewart,
John's and Decatur. They are adapted to grazing, and have
considerable agricultural land, marshes, etc. Dairying is very
profitable, and fruits are raised in profusion. There is less rain
here than in other parts of western Washington. The county
seat is Friday Harbor, on San Juan Island. It has schools,
churches and sawmills, and is the center of the lumbering and
farming interests. Population, 400. There are twenty-six
public schools in the county.

A controversy with Great Britain took place over these is-
lands, and at one time open hostilities were begun. The forces
on San Juan Island faced each other until the German Emperor
arbitrated the matter, deciding that the channel ran west of
this archipelago, and the English then evacuated Roche Harbor.
Thus the Lhiited States secured a part of the beautiful Ionian
Islands.

Island County is composed of the islands of Whidbey and
Camano, located about the center of Puget Sound, across the
head of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. They have an area of 145,-
000 acres and a population of 1,870. Both these islands are
heavily timbered, but they afford a few thousand acres of agri-
cultural land. This is a fruit paradise, some of the oldest or-

WASHINGTON

217

chards in the state being located on these islands. There are
fourteen public schools in the county. Coupeville is the county
seat, is located on the east side of Whidbey Island, and has a
population of 495. Steamers call daily.

Snohomish County lies between Skagit on the north and
King on the south, and extends from Puget Sound on the west
to the summit of the Cascades on the east. It has an area of
2,500 square miles and a population of 23,950. It covers most
of the valleys of the Snohomish River and its tributary, the
Skykomish, and also the Stillaguamish rivers. The Great

ONE WAY OF BUILDING A HOUSE, NEAR EVERETT. WASHINGTON.

Northern Railway main line descends to the sea level at Everett
from the summit of the Cascades by the Skykomish \'alley.
The chief industry has been lumbering, with some agriculture,
but the growth of the cities has built up manufacturing, and
the mines having been opened up, a different impetus has been
given to the county. The Great Xorthern Railway not only
extends east and west through the county, but follows the shore
line from north to south. The Northern Pacific extends from
north to south through the western part of the county, and a
branch line from Hartford extends up the Stillaguamish Valley
to the JMonte Cristo mining district.

218

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

The fertile lands of the valley produce hops, hay, oats and
vegetables ; orchards are also being planted. There are four-
teen dairies in the county, which manufactured in 1900 214,126
pounds of butter and 19,300 pounds of cheese. There has been
greater mining development in this than any other county in
Washington. It has the only shipping mines, with the excep-
tion of one in the Mount Baker district. The mining districts
consist of Monte Cristo, Silverton, Sultan, Wallace and Index.

Everett, the county seat, is located at the mouth of the Sno-
homish River, on Port Gardner Bay, and had a population in
1900 of 7,838, which now probably reaches 15,000, including

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ONE OF EVERETT S MANY SAWMILLS.

Lowell and the smelter. The industries of Everett are many,
and among them are included nine large sawmills, a flouring
mill, a paper mill, three iron foundries, eleven shingle mills, six
planing mills, a large smelter, an arsenic plant — the only one
in the United States — large creosoting works, four shipyards,
a wagon factory, an emery wheel factory, all running continu-
ously, and, with the permanent forces of the railroads, giving
employment to 2,350 men. The railroads have a payroll of
$2,000,000 annually. Everett ranks third in the customs dis-
trict of Puget Sound, which is the indicator of its commerce.
In 1891 the first town lots were sold, and in less than ten years
there was built up a city of 15,000 inhabitants, with enormous
commercial interests.

WASHINGTON

219

Snohomish is the next important town, a flourishing city,
nine miles above Everett, on the Snohomish River and the
Great Northern Railway. It has a population of 2,001. Sev-
eral saw and shingle mills are located here. Other towns are
Stanwood, Monroe, Arlington, Marysville and Edmunds.

King County lies be-
tween Snohomish and
Pierce counties, and ex-
tends from the Sound to
the summit of the Cascades
on the east. This county is
situated in about the center
of the Puget Sound region.
It has an area of 2,000
square miles and a popu-
lation of 110,053 (1900).
It was originally very heav-
ily timbered, and is so yet
in the eastern part. There
is some agricultural land in
the county adjoining the
lakes and the Sound, while
the uplands, when cleared,
are adapted to fruit raising.
The rivers are the Duwam-
ish, White and Snoqualmie,
the latter being a branch of
the Snohomish. The prod-
ucts of the county are tim-
ber, coal, hay, hops, live
stock, fruits and fish. The
industries are lumbering,
coal mining, hop raising,
dairying, gardening and
varied manufacturing. Coal
mining has been a leading industry in the countv since its in-
fancy, millions of tons having been taken from its mines for
domestic use and shipment. The output now is annually about
900,000 tons. Large deposits of iron ore exist in the moun-
tains, and the county has within its borders good mineral zones
now undergoing development. A very profitable industry is
dairying, there being twelve dairies in the county, which, in

SNOQUALMIE FALLS BY MOONLIGHT,

220 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

1900, manufactured 772,068 pounds of butter, besides a large
amount of cheese.

The railroad mileage is over 300 miles, consisting of the
Great Northern and Northern Pacific and local lines. A very
direct electric line has been established between the cities of
Seattle and Tacoma, which gives many of the intervening towns
light freight, as well as passenger service. \'ashon Island, one
of the large islands lying in the path of the steamers plying
the upper Sound, is a part of King County. It has a popula-
tion of several hundred people, engaged mostly in horticultural
pursuits. Some fine homes are to be found here, and it is the
seat of Vashon Baptist College. Maury Island, lying near it,
also belongs to King County. Fishing has been a leading in-
dustry of the people of this county, and a source of much
wealth.

Lake Washington, lying near the Sound, is a beautiful body
of fresh water, twenty-two miles in length and from two to
four miles in width. Between this lake and Lake Union and
Salmon Bay a ship canal eight miles long is being built by the
United States Government, at a cost of $3,000,000, to afiford
fresh water anchorage to seagoing vessels, together with addi-
tional dockage.

Snoqualmie Falls, twenty-five miles from Seattle, consti-
tute a perpendicular fall of the river of that name for 268
feet, and the natural beauty is unexcelled. A power company
has utilized these falls to operate electric car lines and manu-
facturing plants at Seattle and other adjacent cities. Its power
ranges from 10,000 to 100,000 horsepower at different stages
of water. There are other falls in the county which can be
utilized.

On Green River are located the celebrated Hot Springs,
sixty-three miles from Seattle, on the Northern Pacific Railway.
These springs have a temperature of 132°, and are used medic-
inally. A good hotel or sanitarium building has been built, with
excellent accommodation for guests.

Seattle is the county seat of King County, and the largest
city in the state, with a population in 1900 of 80,671, which,
there is good reason to believe, has been increased to more than
100,000. The site was located in 1852, and in 1853 a town was
platted and named Seattle, after a friendly Indian chief. The
city extends from Elliot Bay to Lake Washington on the east
and north and south for several miles. Seattle is a city of hills,
the country rising abruptly from the water front, but the wide

WASHINGTON

221

222 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

tide flats to the south of the bay are now being filled in, thus
affording ample space for manufacturing enterprises. The
residence section of the city lies on the side hill and upon the
higher plain along the lakes to the east and north, where there
are many beautiful parks.

All parts of the city are reached by street cars, the entire
system extending more than lOO miles ; steamboats also ply
Lake Washington, so that transportation is ample. Within the
limits of the city is situated Lake L'nion, a lake of 905 acres,
also Green Lake, covering 300 acres. An army post is estab-
lished at the northeastern extremity of the city, on what is
known as jMagnolia Bluff, overlooking the Sound. The gov-
ernment has built quarters here, also a fort, commemorating
the name of General Lawton, who was killed in the Philippines.
The United States naval station at Port Orchard, fourteen
miles west of Seattle, lies in Ivitsap County. A United States
assay office was established in Seattle in 1898, following the
needs of the Alaskan shipment of gold. The assay value of
gold of that year was over five million dollars, in 1899 about
thirteen million, in 1900 twenty-two million, and in 1901 over
twenty-five million dollars.

The State University is located in the suburbs of the city, on
a 355-acre tract of land, lying between Lakes Union and Wash-
ington. Several substantial buildings have been erected, and
the faculty includes thirty professors and teachers and the
students number upward of 600. Seattle has over 100 churches,
a large public library, good public buildings, many hotels, and
two as good newspapers as are printed in the United States.
I^ike San Francisco, each of the Pacific Coast cities has a Chi-
nese quarter and a large Japanese population.

The city draws its water supply from the Cedar River, a
clear mountain stream, along whose borders it owns several
thousand acres of land, insuring the best of water. The Olym-
pic Mountains, west of Seattle, rising from 4,000 to 8,000 feet;
the Cascades to the east, from 5,000 to 10,000 feet, and Mount
Rainier to the south, 14,526 feet, with the water colorings,
make a grand panorama. Seattle has a mild and equable cli-
mate throughout the year. The harbor is magnificent, being
accessible to the largest ocean-going vessels, several of which
are seen there at all times.

The L^nited States census of 1900 showed Seattle to have
953 various manufacturing establishments, the value of the
products of which reached over twenty-six million dollars.

WASHINGTON 223

Since then the number of factories and products has increased
largel_v, the number of operatives employed being estimated at
15,000.

The leading industrial features of the city are the shipyards
and the sawmills.

The great shipbuilding plant of Moran Brothers Co., now
almost rivaling those of the Atlantic Coast, has a business his-
tory of only twenty-two years. The company built its first steel
ship in 1886, having previous to that time been engaged in
wooden shipbuilding and general machine and foundry work.
Its success in constructing vessels and their machinery has

SEATTLE SHIPPING.

been most gratifying, the work along this line including ocean
vessels, wood and steel ; tugs and tenders for the United States
Government, river and sound steamers and barges. It has
also delivered to the United States Navy one first-class torpedo
boat, the "Rowan," which, considering the usual trouble expe-
rienced by all torpedo boat builders in this and other countries,
may be said to have an exceptionally good record, as not only
were the contract requirements fully complied with, but as to
speed were exceeded by i /4 knots, a remarkable achievement in
torpedo boat building.

There are four steel vessels at present under construction at
the works of this company, among which is the first-class

224 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

United States battleship "Nebraska," 15,000 tons displacement,
and costing $3,800,000. A general idea of the magnitude of
this work may be obtained from the following description :

The vessel is 441 feet long, sevent)'-six feet two and one-
fourth inches wide at the water line and a total depth from keel
to top of the upper deck of forty-nine feet nine inches. The
main battery will include four twelve-inch breech-loading rifles,
eight eight-inch breech-loading rifles and twelve six-inch
breech-loading R. F. rifles.

Aside from the steel shipbuilding plant and the drydock, the
company operates a marine railway, on which vessels are hauled
out for cleaning and repair.

The general works include the following departments : Ma-
chine shop, sheet metal shop, joiner shop, pattern shop, iron
foundry, brass foundry, electrical construction department,
power plant, and drawing office. There are also large store-
rooms and warehouses, well stocked with all kinds of marine
and engineers' supplies and raw materials for ship and general
constrviction. The shop tools at the works are independently
driven by either electricity, compressed air or hydraulic power,
the company's power plant including large generators, air
compressors and hydraulic pumps and accumulators.

This company also operates large saw and planing mills,
where lumber of all kinds is manufactured for its use and for
local trade and export shipments. These mills are particu-
larly ecjuipped to turn out long and large timbers, and a spe-
cialty is made of spars of large dimensions.

In addition to the above, the plant includes facilities for
receiving and shipping materials or machinery which are un-
surpassed, as the trans-continental railroads run by the works
and have branch tracks extending through the shops to the
deep water wharves. Weights of sixty tons are handled with
ease by the electric traveling cranes in the shops, and weights
of 100 tons can be handled by the stationary and floating cranes
at the wharves.

Aside from the operation of its construction or producing
departments above described, the company is constantly en-
gaged in repairing vessels which call at the port of Seattle, and
it is not unusual to see as many as from ten to fifteen vessels of
all descriptions undergoing repairs at one time. During the
war with Spain numerous vessels were fitted out very expedi-
tiously by this company for the United States Government for
the transportation of men and animals.

WASHINGTON

225

226 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

The storage capacity of the wharves, warehouses and eleva-
tors of Seattle's water front is 712,900 tons, and the berths
for vessels alongside the wharves are sufficient to accommodate
a line of vessels for a distance of four miles. Local develop-
ment on a large scale is being carried on by the combined rail-
road companies, a new union depot having been located south
of the business section of the city. A tunnel will be driven in a
northerly and southerly direction under the city, which will
give an outlet to the railroads and relieve the water front of
its present congestion of railway tracks. Seattle's foreign and
Alaska trade has of late years been very large, especially the
Oriental trade. The Nippon Yusen Kaisha has nineteen ves-
sels engaged between Seattle and the Orient ; the China Mu-
tual Line has thirteen vessels running to Liverpool and the
Orient ; the Globe Navigation Company has a line to Hon-
olulu, and there are, besides several other lines, the general
ocean sailing vessels, the Alaska and coastwise trade, which
is carried on by a number of strong steamships, and the local
business is conducted by what is known as the "mosquito
fleet." Seattle shipments for 1901 are estimated at forty-six
millions.

The wheat and flour exports have been simply enormous,
and new flouring mills are now being constructed to supply the
new demand for flour in China and elsewhere.

The city of Ballard is a flourishing manufacturing city, sit-
uated on Salmon Bay, adjoining the city limits of Seattle, and
is connected with the city by the Northern Pacific Railway, the
Great Northern Railway and by two electric lines. The gov-
ernment Lake Washington ship canal passes through Salmon
Bay in front of the city, which has twelve shingle mills and
four sawmills, with a payroll of $200,000 per month. It is
noted as the largest shingle producing point in the world, be-
sides having other manufactories.

There are many flourishing towns in the county, notably
Kent, Auburn, Renton, Franklin, Newcastle, Bothel, Black
Diamond, Enumclaw, Snoqualmie and others.

Pierce County covers the commercial head of Puget Sound,
lies south of King County, and extends from the Sound to
the crest of the Cascades on the east. It has an area of 1,800
square miles and a population of 55,515 (1900 census). This
county has been very heavily timbered, but large portions of it
have been cut and manufactured into lumber. There is still
considerable timber in the eastern part of the county ; some of

WASHINGTON

228 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

it, however, being inside the forest reserve and Mount Rainier
National Park. There are some prairie lands in the western
part of the county and in the Puyallup Valley, which for years
has been noted as the hop center of Washington. These lands
are very rich, and raise all crops in abundance. Apples, plums,
prunes, vegetables and the cereals do well. Dairying has
reached an important stage, there being fourteen dairies in the
county, from which, in 1900, 270,270 pounds of butter were
made.

The Puyallup River rises in the Cascade Mountains, with its
various branches, has a generally northwesterly direction, and
reaches the Sound at Tacoma. The Nisqually River bounds the
county on the south and west, rising high up in the National
Park, on the sides of Mount Tacoma. This mountain stands
out in bold relief in the southwestern part of the county, the
grandest mountain of all the Cascades. The government has
thought this mountain, with its forests and its glaciers, a scenic
feature of the country, and has therefore included it in a na-
tional park.

The resources of this county are timber, coal and agricultu-
ral products, though some mines for the different metals are
showing up well. Coal mining is perhaps the leading industry,
with timber second, the output of the former for 1900 being
600,000 tons. This coal is valuable for coking purposes, and
the manufactured product is disposed of at the manufacturing
centers.

The county is traversed east and west and north and south
by the Northern Pacific Railway. Portland, Olympia, Gray's
Harbor points and Seattle are all connected with Tacoma by
the Northern Pacific, and an additional direct electric line also
connects Seattle and Tacoma. The Tacoma & Eastern Rail-
road, now being built to the foot of Mount Tacoma, is expected
to be ready to take passengers who desire to ascend the moun-
tain in the course of a year. This road is being built for the
purpose of hauling coal and timber, and opens a large and
very rich area.

Tacoma is the county seat of Pierce County, and is situated
at the head of Admiralty Inlet, the main estuary of Puget
Sound, on Puyallup or Commencement Bay. It is the second
largest city in the state, having, in 1903, by estimate of the
names in the directory, more than 55>ooo population. Tacoma
is the western terminus of the Northern Pacific Railway trans-
continental line, where the general offices of the company have

\\'ASnL\GTON

229

230 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

been located, with terminals and docks costing $15,000,000.
This road has also spent a large sum at South Tacoma in car
building, locomotive repair and construction shops. These are
the largest shops of the kind on the Pacific Coast, with the ex-
ception of those at Sacramento, Cal.

Tacoma is not only a sub-port of entry, but is the second
largest wheat shipping point on the entire Pacific Coast. Dur-
ing 1902 the shipment reached more than eleven and a half
million bushels and 1,400,000 barrels of flour, more than any
other city on the coast. Tacoma is nearly 150 miles from the
open sea, and is very advantageously situated. Her harbor
has ample depth for all classes of shipping and will accommo-
date any sized fleet, while her wharf and shipping facilities are
unexcelled. The largest private drydock on the coast is lo-
cated here. In addition to numerous other warehouses, one
warehouse alone is 147 feet in width and 2,360 feet in length.
This is considered the largest of its kind in existence, and from
four to eight vessels can be loaded from it at one time. Elec-
tricity is used in loading vessels, and this port has earned the
reputation of loading quicker than any other port on the Pa-
cific.

Ample coal fields at Tacoma's very door aflford cheap fuel,
besides, cheap electric power is furnished, which two economic
features have brought to this city many manufacturing estab-
lishments, some of the largest on the Pacific Coast. Twenty-
one of the establishments employ 4,446 men, or an average of
over 200 men to each ; in all there are 583 establishments, em-
ploying 7,878 men. C)f these establishments perhaps the most
important are the lumber mills, of which there are several of
large capacity, the St. Paul and Tacoma Lumber Company be-
ing rated the largest lumber mill in the United States, and
being second in the world only to the great lumber mill in Swe-
den. These mills manufactured about one-fifth of the lumber
output of the state, or 304,000,000 feet, and in addition to this
350,000,000 shingles. During the year 136 vessels, loaded
either wholly or in part with lumber, sailed for India, Africa,
Siberia and /\ustralia and for New England with spars.

A large smelter, the most complete upon the Pacific Coast,
is in operation, and smelts ores not only from local mines, but
from Alaska, British Columbia, the western states and South
America. The most extensive packing and cold storage house
on the Pacific Coast is located here and does a large slaughter-
ing and shipping business. Besides these manufactures men-

< WASHINGTON

231

232 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

tioned, there are shipbuilding, carbuilding, match manufactur-
ing and woodworking plants, as well as a multitude of smaller
industries, claiming an invested capital of over ten million
dollars, with a monthly payroll of $480,000 and a valued pro-
duct for the year of $24,957,600.

Attending the meeting of the rails and the sails at this point
is the immense development of the state, which in many ways
has aided the growth of the manufacturing interests of the
city in a very stable manner. Large quantities of the wheat
raised in the interior have been manufactured into flour and
shipped to the Orient, and there has been a local production
of the minerals and by-products from many industries. Not
onl}' has iron ore been manufactured into steel and shipped,
but cotton and other products of the farther confines of the
country have been shipped to the Orient through this port, the
returning vessels bringing tea, coffee, sugar and silk from other
parts of the world.

Many vessels are required to carry these products, and of
the entire fleet of the Puget Sound foreign trade twenty-one
make their home at Tacoma, while ten others make Tacoma a
port of call. These vessels constitute the lines of the Northern
Pacific Railway, the Boston Steamship Company and two Brit-
ish lines, in addition to the many sailing vessels. During the
year 1902 the number of vessels of all descriptions sailing from
Tacoma for foreign ports averaged more than one for every
day in the year, this not including what is known as the Puget
Sound, or "mosquito fleet," nor the Alaska fleet.

To carry on these extensive enterprises in both manufac-
turing and shipping large capital is required ; the bank clear-
ances of the city in 1902 exceeded $75,000,000, which shows the
magnitude of the transactions.

Tacoma, as a city, is remarkably well built, and its features
are the beautiful homes, to be seen on every hand, and the many
parks and sightly drives. Tacoma has more than 100 miles of
graded streets, operates its own waterworks, the water supply
coming from the streams along the sides of Mount Tacoma,
thus insuring purity ; also its own electric lighting plant ; has
a good street car service, and is connected with Seattle by a
new and direct electric line in addition to the regular railway
service. Several steamers also make the trip between the two
cities by water daily, so that there is no lack of either boat or
train accommodation at any hour of the day.

The city's educational advantages are many, for there are

WASHINGTON

233

234 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

located here, in addition to the regular school system, four col-
leges, one seminary, two art, two industrial schools and other
educational institutions.

Of the grand and beautiful sights of the world, that of
Mount Tacoma, with its snow-clad heights mirrored in the
deep blue waters of the Sound, and the city in the foreground,
is one which will never fade from the memory of those who
have beheld it.

One of the most interesting sights for the traveler in the
Northwest is the Ferry Aluseum, of Tacoma. This occupies
two floors of the county courthouse, and has the largest collec-
tion of Indian and Alaskan curios and Indian baskets -in the
world. These Alaskan curios are not only those which are
gathered along the sea coast, but from many points in the in-
terior which are seldom visited. The difference between these
curios and others which the traveler sees will at once suggest
the difference between the real and tlie imitation.

T1-IUR.STON County is situated in the extreme upper Sound
Country, and lies between Chehalis County, on the ocean, and
Pierce County, on the east. It has an area of 700 square miles,
and had a population, in 1900, of 9,927. It has many miles of
shore line bordering on Puget Sound, with numerous bays and
inlets, and is one of the leading fruit-growing counties of the
state, the larger part of which is adapted to this product.
There are many thousands of fruit trees, covering hundreds of
acres, and bearing apples, prunes, pears, cherries, quinces, etc.

Lumber has been the great industry, there being now seven-
teen saw and shingle mills in the county, with a daily output of
300,000 feet of lumber and 600,000 shingles. It is estimated
that one-third of all the logs shipped on Puget Sound comes
from the forests adjacent to Olympia. The fish industry here
is quite important, as this county is noted for its oysters, the
Puget Sound bivalve having been given the name Olympia from
the fact of this county being the center of the industry. The
oysters are small, but very sweet, and have an especial flavor
of their own much enjoyed by epicures. The express company
books show that from Olympia were shipped 1,500,000 pounds
of oysters, part removed from the shell, during the year, but
this does not cover the gross amount, as large quantities were
taken direct from the beds to Tacoma and Seattle. There 'are
thousands of acres in the Sound's inlets now belonging to the
state, which can be utilized for oyster beds, and the trade is
constantlv growing.

WASHINGTON

235

23G

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

There are fifty-one creameries in the county, with an output
of about three hundred thousand pounds annually. There are
sixty-six public schools, six of which are graded. The North-
ern Pacific Railroad traverses the county with both its main
lines to Portland and its line to Grays Harbor.

This county was settled very early. The settlement at Tum-
water, adjoining Olympia, is the oldest west of the Cascades.
The surface is rather rough and comprises low mountains,
with valleys interspersed with broad plains or prairies. The
best and most prosperous farming districts border the arm of
the Sound, which penetrates this county in so many difl^erent

STATE CAPITOL. OLY^ITIA . WASHINGTON.

places. The Qiehalis River Valley crosses the cxtremeisouth-
western part of the county. Coal, not of high grade, is one of
the products of Tenino and Bucoda. At the former place there
is a fine ledge of building stone, perhaps the best in the state.
Other towns are Rainier and Lacy.

Olympia is the county seat and the capital of the state. It
is located on Budd's Inlet, the most extreme southerly inlet of
Puget Sound. Its harbor will not accommodate the ocean-going
fleet, yet it has sufficient depth for Puget Sound steamboats
and vessels, which give regular connection with the other cities.

WASHINGTON

237

238 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

The Xorthern Pacific Railway, between Tacoma and Grays
Harbor, passes through Olympia, and the Tenino branch makes
it a part of the main line to Portland. Through trains pass
Olympia each way. The industries of the city include saw and
shingle mills, sash and door factories, a wooden pipe factory, a
clam cannery, flouring mill, brickyards, stone quarries, fruit
drying and canning, etc. At the Pan-American Exposition, in
1901, the Olympia Chamber of Commerce was awarded a gold
medal for its fruit exhibit, consisting of apples and pears, raised
near Olympia, and it was admitted that the display of pears
was the best on exhibition. No other city in western Wash-
ington received a gold medal. A silver medal was awarded
Olympia for its superior equality of cranberries. At Tumwater,
adjoining Olympia, the falls of the Des Chutes River are util-
ized to supply the power for the electric light and street railway
system and other industrial purposes.

Olympia is not only the farthest inland city of the Sound, but
it has the very best of rail and water facilities. It is the oldest
city of western Washington, and has been the seat of govern-
ment from territorial days to the present time. This city, made
famous by the gods and Dewey's ship, is a thriving modern
community, with well graded streets, a good sewerage S3'stem,
ample waterworks, live newspapers, handsome brick and stone
buildings, hotels and an imposing capitol. The population in
1900 was 4,002, but the estimate for 1903 is 7,000, the city
having had a steady and healthy growth.

Ample harbor privileges are afforded here gratis to manu-
facturers, and there is an excellent opportunity for those de-
siring a location for the manufacture of anything in the timber
or woodworking line, for canneries, clay works, glass works,
etc.

The building of a canal from Puget Sound through to Gray's
Harbor, which would follow almost entirely a river channel,
has been strongly advocated. A canal of this character would
cost a comparatively small sum of money, would give direct
connection with the ocean, and will probably be completed at
no distant date, as the obstacles in the wav are so few.

The estimate of standing timber in this county for 1902 was
two and a half billion feet.

Mason County lies upon the west side of Puget Sound, and
covers the southwestern arms of that body of water. It has
an area of 900 square miles and a population of 3,800. Three-
fourths of the count}"s area is rugged and mountainous and is

WASHINGTON

239

240 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

covered with a heavy growth of timber. Lumbering and log-
ging are the chief industries. It furnishes a very large propor-
tion of the shipments of the Olympia oysters, clams and all
kinds of fish that are shipped in quantities.

The river valleys are being rapidly cleared and turned into
farms and fruit orchards. The entire headwaters of Hood's
Canal are in this county, this canal affording anothei outlet to
the straits.

Shelton, the county seat, lies twenty-two miles northwest of
Olympia, and has a population of 1,353. ^^ h^s four churches,
graded public schools, electric light plant and two newspapers.
Other towns are Clifton, Grove, Hoodsport and Union City.

Chehalis County is situated west of Thurston and Mason
counties, and borders on the Pacific Ocean. The great estuary
of Gray's Harbor covers quite a portion of the county. The
area of the county is 2,600 square miles, and it has a popula-
tion of 15,124. The principal river is the Chehalis, which en-
ters the county from the southwest, runs eastward to Gray's
Harbor, and is navigable to Montesano. It has a wide and
rich valley, from which the timber has been cut and the land
utilized for farming. The county still has vast forests, the
manufacture of which into lumber is the chief industry at
Aberdeen, Cosmopolis, Hoquiam and Ocosta. Shipbuilding is
carried on to some extent at Hoquim, and the fishing industry
is quite an important factor. The winters are very mild ; there
is ample rainfall and grass grows luxuriantly, making this
county a good place for stockraising and dairying when the
land is cleared. The Northern Pacific reaches the county from
Tacoma and Portland, and a line is now building north along
the coast, where there is dense timber and some good sawmill
openings.

Montesano is the county seat, situated on the Chehalis River
and the Northern Pacific Railway, and has a population of
1,597. Aberdeen has a population of 3,747, Hoquiam 2,824;
Cosmopolis is owned entirely by the Grays Harbor Commercial
Company, which has the largest sawmill plant on Gray's Har-
bor, with a capacity of 200,000 feet per day ; also three shingle
mills, a box and trunk factory and a planing and turning mill.
Population, 1,000. In the northwest part of the county is the
Ouiniault Reservation. The hunting of elk and deer is espe-
cially good along the lower foothills in this locality.

Kits.SlP County belongs to the western tier of counties and
comprises the peninsular between Hood's Canal and Admiralty

WASHINGTON

241

242 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Inlet, or the main inlet of Puget Sound. It lies directly west
of Seattle and King County, has an area of' 400 square miles,
and a population of 6,796. The county is penetrated in all
directions by dififerent arms of the Sound, creating several land-
locked harbors. On Port Orchard Bay, at Bremerton, is lo-
cated the United States Naval Station and drydock, where
the largest battleships in the navy have been successfully
docked. Steamboats make connection with Seattle several
times daily.

This county has some very large saw mills, situated at Port
Blakely and Port Gamble, the former until recently having been
the largest in the United States. This county has one of the
chief lumbering manufacturing districts of the state. The
soil here is good for vegetables and fruits, as well as other
crops, and yields bountiful returns. The oyster business is
assuming considerable proportions. Sidney, the county seat,
seven miles west of Seattle, has a population of 794.

Jefferson County lies west of Puget Sound at the head
of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and extends west of the Pacific
Ocean. It has an area of 2,000 square miles and a population
of 7,512. It is extremely mountainous, covering the larger
part of the Olympic Mountains, and has immense forests, es-
pecially on the west side, where the rainfall is the greatest in
the state and where they are in their virgin state. Lumbering
is at present the leading industry, but some mining and agri-
cultural interests are being developed. There are three dairies
and cheese factories in the county, with an output of 124,840
pounds of butter and 53,507 pounds of cheese. Port Townsend,
the county seat, is a government port of entry, and is the site
of the United States Marine Hospital. Forts Point Wilson,
Alger, Marrow Stone Point and Casey are equipped with mod-
ern guns of the retiring pattern. The city has various manu-
facturing establishments, saw mills, etc. This is the last point
of call in the United States when leaving Puget Sound points
for foreign countries. Other important towns are Port Dis-
covery, Port Ludlow and Pleasant Harbor. The Port Town-
send Southern Railway extends south to Hood's Canal.

Clallam County lies south of the Strait of Juan de Fuca,
and extends from Puget Sound to the ocean. With Jefferson
County it covers the Olympic Mountains, and has an area of
2.000 square miles and a population of 5,603. It has extensive
forests and the soil in the river valleys and along the coast and
the straits is very rich. Like all other coast counties the prin-

WASHINGTON 24a

cipal industry is lumbering, but fishing is extensively carried
on, as halibut are caught in large quantities off Cape Flattery.
Good hunting and fishing can be obtained in this county, the
Olympics having been but slightly explored. There are two
lakes in the mountains, about sixteen miles from Port Angeles,
which afford remarkable trouting. In one of them, Lake Cres-
cent, seven distinct varieties of trout are found. Good coal
has been discovered in this county as well as several mineral
ledges.

Port Angeles is the county seat, and is very romantically
situated on the Strait of Juan de Fuca, at the base of the moun-
tains. Population, 2,321. It has a good harbor and daily
communication with the Sound cities by water, and a railroad
has been projected from this point across to the ocean and down
the coast to join with the line being built northward from
Grays Harbor. Other towns are Dungeness, Port Williams,
Clallam, Crescent and Quillayute.

Lewis County extends from the summit of the Cascades
on the east to Pacific County on the west, and lies
mainly south of Thurston and Pierce counties, cov-
ering the southern part of Mount Rainier National
Park, with an area of over 2,000 square miles. Popula-
tion, 15,157. This county had a great deal of timber, and
lumbering is still carried on extensively. The Chehalis and
Cowlitz rivers drain the county, the former emptying into
Gray's Harbor, the latter rising on the sides of Mount Rainier
and emptying into the Columbia River on the south. The val-
leys of these rivers and their tributaries afford large areas of
agricultural lands, on which considerable wheat is grown, and
there are many large orchards. This is perhaps the largest
agricultural county west of the Cascade Mountains. About
all of the government land has been taken, but some can still
be acquired and land can be bought cheaply. There are several
flour mills and a number of saw mills, which, together with coal
mining, farming, and dairying, constitute the industries. There
are thirteen dairy and cheese factories in the county. One
hundred and eight schools supply adequate educational facili-
ties. The Northern Pacific Railway main line extends north
and south, and a branch line runs westward to South Bend,
on Willapa Harbor.

Chehalis, the county seat, is situated on the Northern Pacific
Railway and the Chehalis River, and has a population of 1,775.
It is about midway between Portland, Ore., and Puget Sound,

244

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

WASHINGTON 245

and has churches, one of the finest hotels of the state, large
saw and shingle mills, a flour mill, and the reform school. It
is a large shipping point. Centralia, one of the principal towns,
has a population of i,6oo.

Pacific County is the extreme southwest county of the
state, lies west of Lewis County, and is bounded on the west
by the Pacific Ocean and on the south by the Columbia River.
It has an area of 900 square miles and a population of 5,983.
Along the western line running north from the Columbia
River is a narrow strip of land enclosing Willapa Harbor. On
this strip a branch of the Oregon Railway & Navigation Com-
pany has been built and Long Beach and other places have
become quite prominent resorts for Portland people. Connec-
tion is made at Ilwaco by Oregon Railway & Navigation Com-
pany boats.

Several streams enter Willapa Harbor, along which there are
dense forests, and the land is the very best for agricultural
purposes. Hop culture and dairying are the chief industries
outside of lumbering. Oyster culture gives employment to
several hundred men. Portland and many southern points are
served from these beds.

South Picnd is the county seat, has a population of 711, a
number of banks, churches, saw mills, sash and door factory,
and other industries. Other towns are Ilwaco, (Jvsterville,
Bay Center, Fort Canby, and Willapa. Fort Canby is located
on Cape Disappointment and is a United States fort protect-
ing the mouth of the Columbia River.

Wahki.\kuii CdUN'TY Hcs along the Columbia River in
the southwestern part of the state between Cowlitz and Pacific
counties. It has an area of 274 square miles and a population
of 2,819. Lumbering is important, but the chief source of
revenue is fishing. There are eight large salmon canneries on
the river, which emplov a large number of men and fvn'nish
a means of livelihood for several hundred fishermen. There
are twenty-two pu])lic schools in the county. Cathlamet, the
county seat, situated on the Columbia River, has a population
of 500 people, and has churches, canneries, a newspaper, etc.

Cowlitz County lies on the Columbia River in the south-
western part of the state. The county is mountainous but has
several river valleys, along the Cowlitz, Lewis and Kalama
rivers. There is splendid bo'ttom land along these rivers, where
all kinds of crops are raised, and there are many fine orchards
throughout the county. Coal measures to a considerable ex-

246

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

tent underlie this county. The Northern Pacific Railway runs
north and south and reaches the valley of the Columbia through
the Cowlitz Valley. Its cars are conveyed across the Colum-
bia River by ferry at Kalama, the county seat, which has a
population of 945, several saw mills, a bank, churches, schools
and a newspaper.

Skamania County lies in the Cascade Mountains, but is
bounded on the south by the Columbia River. It has an area
of 1,600 square miles and a population of 1,688. The high
peaks and deep gorges make this county remarkable for scenic
beauty. The great portion of the agricultural land borders on
the Columbia River, and this land yields large returns. The
principal industries are the manufacture of lumber, and fish-
ing. Stevenson, the county seat, situated on the Columbia
River, has a population of 338. The Cascades of the Colum-

NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY TRANSFER STEAMER,
ACROSS COLUMBIA RIVER AT KALAMA.

bia River gorge are at this point. Other towns are Cape Horn,
Mount Pleasant, and Nelson. Mount St. Helens, 10,000 feet
high, is situated in the northwest part of this county. The
usual route to this mountain is up the Lewis River. A new
copper district known as the Bohemia district lies north in this
county and has the prospect of being a great producer. Three
railroads are now being built to it.

Clarke County lies west of Skamania County and along the
Columbia River. It has an area of 600 square miles and a
population of 13,419. A large part of this county is quite
level and the land is of good quality. All the different crops
are successfully raised. Fruit growing is the chief industry,
the county being noted for the great quantity of prunes pro-
duced and shipped each year. The dairy interest is considera-
ble, the amount of butter made being over 100,000 pounds,
and of cheese over 200,000 pounds annually.

OREGON 247

Vancouver is the county seat, situated on the Columbia,River,
and has a population of 4,006. The State School for Defective
Youth is located here, also a United States army post. This is
the original Hudson's Bay Co. post, and the fort played a very

GENERAL GRANT S OLD HEADQUARTERS AT VANCOUVER, WASH,, AS IT LOOKS TO-DAY.

important part in early history, General Grant, Sheridan, and
others who became famous in later years having been stationed
here. This city is but a few miles from Portland, with which
it is connected by ferry and an electric railway line, the cars
running every thirty minutes.

OREGON.

Oregon, one of the group of Pacific Northwest states, is
bounded on the north by the state of Washington, on the
south by California and Nevada, on the west by the Pacific
Ocean, and on the east by Idaho. Its average length from
east to west is 360 miles, and its mean width north and south
260 miles. Its estimated area is 96,030 square miles, equaling
the states of Ohio and Iowa combined, 1,470 square miles be-
ing water. Its population in 1900 was 413,536, vv'hich is to-
day estimated at more than 500,000.

248 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

The first printed mention of the word "Oregon" is in Jona-
than Caran's book, entitled "Travels Through the Interior
Parts of Xorth America," printed in London in 1778. These
travels had been made in 1766 and 1767. Caran applied the
name to the great river flowing westward from the "Stony"
or "Shining" Mountains, which he called the "River Oregon."
In 1812 Bryant immortalized it in his Thanatopsis in the fol-
lowing lines :

"Where rolls the Oregon and hears no sound,
Save his own dashings — yet — the dead are there."

Early History. — The Oregon country has been a piuch
governed and much dissected territory. Spain, at one time,
claimed it, with all the Pacific Coast country from California
to Alaska ; Russia asserted ownership as far south as Tilla-
mook ; France set up a claim upon explorations made from
Canada, and Great Britain asserted its rights to possession on
the discoveries made by Captains Cook and A'ancouver, and
still later the occupancy by the Hudson's Bay Co. The claims
of the United States were based upon the discovery of Captain
Robert Gra}-, who entered the Columbia River and named it
after his vessel. Then came the Louisiana purchase in 1803 ;
Spain's rights were ceded to the United States by treaty in
i8ig; the claims of France were ignored; Russia ceded -her
rights to Great Britain and the United States, leaving these
countries to settle their differences by themselves; in 1804-5
Lewis and Clark explored the Columbia River, and in 1810
Nathaniel Winship, representing a Boston company, built the
first house on the banks of the Columbia at Oak Point. John
Jacob Astor, of New York, established a fur trading post at
Astoria in 181 1, which was sold to the Northwestern Fur Co.
in 1813, and merged into the Hudson's Bay Co., which built a
fort and part of what is now A^ancouver, W'ash. The Oregon
Country from this time until the final settlement of authority,
was an open country. In 1832 Captain Wyeth, of Massa-
chusetts, erected a fishery at the mouth of the ^^'iIlamette
River, and in 1834 two Methodist missionaries founded a mis-
sion at Salem ; then followed the Dr. Marcus Whitman party,
spoken of before, who settled on the Walla ^^^alla River. Whit-
man feared that the Oregon Country might be lost to the
United States, and with a single companion rode on horseback
to Fort Hall, now Pocatello, Idaho, then to the great Salt Lake,
now in Utah, thence to Santa Fe, now in New Mexico, then

OREGON

249

to St. Louis, and thence by stage to Washington, tlie trip oc-
cupying a period of five months. His enthusiasm inaugurated
a series of movements which finahy settled the Oregon contro-
versy. In 1841-2 a tide of emigration set in and in 1843
Whitman piloted fully 1,000 people to the territory from Mis-
souri, and in that year a provisional government was set up.
In 1846 the international boundary c|uestion was settled, and
in 1848 Congress created the whole territory west of the
Rocky Mountains lying north of the 42° of latitude into the
territory of Oregon. The governorship was offered to Abra-

OLD PHIL SIIERIDAN BLOCK HOI

ham Lincoln, but was declined by him and accepted by Gen.
Joseph Lane, of Kansas. In 1853 Washington Territory
was carved out of Oregon, and in 1859 Oregon became a state.

The settlement of Oregon, immediately following the Civil
War, was so largely from the middle western south that it is
often said that Price's army never disbanded but simply went
into camp in Oregon.

Topography. — Oregon, topographically, is divided into two
very dissimilar sections, lying respectively east and west of
the Cascade range of mountains, which run almost due north
and south, parallel to the coast line, at a distance of about 100

250 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

miles inland. This range traverses the state from Washington
to- California and has an elevation of from 4,000 to 10,000 feet,
with higher peaks, viz. : Mount Hood, the farthest north,
near the Columbia River, 1 1 ,225 feet ; Mount Pitt, to the ex-
treme south, 9,760 feet ; Mount Thielsen, 9,230 feet ; Mount
Jefferson, 10,200 feet ; and the Three Sisters, 9,420 feet. All
these peaks rise to the region of perpetual snow and are ex-
tinct volcanoes, Mount Hood probably being the last to be-
come extinct. From the main range cross-ranges project
westward, such as the Calapooia, the Rogue River and the
Siskiyou mountains, these ranges being in the southern part
of the western section of the state. The Siskiyous follow the
boundary between ^^'ashington and California. The Coast -
Range of mountains parallels the coast in a zig-zag manner, is
somewhat disconnected, and has an elevation of about 3,500
feet. At some points spurs of the Coast Range reach the
ocean, but in general there is an intervening belt of land from
twenty-five to fifty miles in width.

Between the Cascade Mountains and the Coast Range are
three important river valleys — the Willamette, the Umpqua,
and the Rogue — so named from the rivers flowing through
them. The Willamette Valley extends north and south be-
tween these mountains for a distance of 130 miles, having a
width of fifty miles and a general area of about 7,800 square
miles. It contains nearly one-half the population and wealth
of the state. The valley, as well as its slopes, comprise a se-
ries of loam lands, and the higher lands are also well soiled.
The Calapooia Mountains bound this valley on the south, and
show evidences of having been the southern boundary of a
valley extending as far north as Puget Sound, in Washington.
The Willamette River is the chief tributary of the Columbia
west of the Cascades. It is about 250 miles long, flows north-
ward, is navigable for large ships to Portland, and during two-
thirds of the year small steamboats ascend to Eugene, in Lane
Countv. about 150 miles from the mouth. The falls at Oregon
Citv, which afford excellent water power, have locks for the
use of these boats.

The Umpqua River rises in the Cascade Mountains m two
branches, and flows westward to the sea, between the Cala-
pooia Mountains on the north and the Rogue and Umpqua
mountains on the south. This valley is about 200 miles long,
is rich in soil, and produces large crops. The Rogue River
also has its source in the Cascade Mountains, and flows into

OREGON

251

252 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

the ocean after a westerl)' course of about 120 miles, mostly
between the Rogue and the Siskiyou mountains. This valley
is small but rich agriculturally.

The Columbia River forms the northern boundary of the
state of Oregon for a distance of 300 miles, cutting the lofty
Cascade Mountains of Washington and Oregon into two parts.
The great gorge of the Columbia has a world-wide reputation
for scenic grandeur. At the Cascades, about 150 miles above
its mouth, the river descends 300 feet in a canyon 4,000 feet
deep and nearly six miles long. In cutting its pathway to the
sea the water has formed many curious and shapely rocks,
which adorn the valley at every turn and interest the sight-
seer. Multnomah Falls, a beautiful cascade, near Portland,
descends 850 feet and may be seen from boat or train. The
river is navigable to Priest Rapids, a point some distance above
the Snake River, in Washington, with the exception of Celilo
Falls and the Cascades ; around the latter a canal 3,000 feet
long, with locks, has been built by the government at an ex-
pense of $4,000,000, and a survey of The Dalles has been
made, looking to the improvement of the falls. The Snake
River is navigable for 165 miles, or to the mouth of the Grande
Ronde River.

East of the Cascade Mountains tlie Columbia River receives
the Des Chutes, which rises in the Cascades and flows north-
ward along the eaftern slope, receiving the different short
streams from the mountains, reaching that river a short dis-
tance above The Dalles. Next in importance, to the east, is
the John Day River, which has its source in the southern
slopes of the Blue Mountains, and empties into the Columbia
after a westerly and northerly course of 250 miles. On the
west side of the state the Snake River forms a boundary for
more than half of the whole line betwen Idaho and Oregon. It
IS joined by the Grande Ronde, Powder, Burnt, Malheur and
Owyhee rivers.

Eastern Oregon embraces all that portion ot the state lying
east of the Cascades, and is generally a high table land. In
the northeastern part it is traversed by the Blue Mountains,
trending northeast and southwest, with a spur running to the
south. These mountains have an altitude of about 7,000 feet,
and divide the northern half of this eastern section of the state
into deep valleys. Among the important offshoots of this
range are the Eagle Creek and Powder River mountains, enclos-

OREGON

253

MULTNOMAH FALLS, OREGON.

254 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

ing the valle3-s of the Burnt, Powder and Grande Ronde riv-
ers.

In central Oregon, east of the Cascades, between the head-
waters of the Des Chutes and Crooked rivers, and the head-
waters of Silver Creek, to the north and east, in Crook, Lake
and Harney counties, is an extensive and comparatively barren
plain known as the Sage Plains. This region is very arid, but
irrigation is now about to be established, the soil in most
instances being volcanic and fertile. The major part of south-
eastern Oregon belongs to the Great Basin, which comprises
part of Utah and Nevada. This basin is estimated to cover
200,000 square miles, and is for the most part an arid waste.
The soil is fertile, but the rivers are short, losing themselves
in sinks. Wide lava beds are interspersed with level tracts
covered with sage brush, stunted pine and juniper. The
Steins Mountains rise in the midst of this desert and are a
very striking feature of the southeastern part of the state.

There are some lakes (really sinks) in the basin, whose
waters are strongly alkali in spring, and in summer merely
mud plains. Oregon has a large number of prominent lakes.
In Klamath County are located a number of these, the largest
of which take their name from the county, the upper being
thirty miles long and eight miles wide ; the lower extends into
California. These are the headwaters of the Klamath River,
which, flowing westward to the ocean near the boundary, be-
tween California and Oregon, divides the Sierra Nevada from
the Cascade mountains. Crater Lake, in the same county,
occupies the old crater of Mount Mazuma, is eight miles long
and six miles wide, and 1,996 feet deep, its vertical walls rising
from 800 to 2,000 feet. Its surface lies at an elevation of
6,300 feet, and the waters are clear and cold, and abound in
trout. This is one of the natural features of the state and is
reached from the line of the Southern Pacific Railway. Wall-
owa Lake, in the northeastern part of the state, is large, lies
at an elevation of 4,000 feet, and abounds in trout. Lake
County is the center of the lake region, the largest sheet of wa-
ter being Goose Lake, lying partly in California. This lake
is fifty miles long, and from eight to fifteen miles wide. Other
lakes are Christmas, or Warner, Albert, Summer, and Silver,
all being clear and containing plenty of fish. In Harney
County are two considerable lakes, Harney and Malheur (prac-
tically one), over thirty miles long, and from three to fifteen
miles wide.

OREGON

355

25G GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Climate. — The climate is generally very mild, due to the
same causes which affect the other Pacific states. The winds
for three-fourths of the year blow from the southwest, or off
the warm body of the Pacific Ocean, and the Kuroshiwo, or
Japanese warm current, which strikes the coast and influences
the temperature, far into the interior. This Asiatic stream of
tropical water is of considerable magnitude, being 400 miles
in width, and has a velocity of about four miles per hour. It
has the same effects as the gulf stream of the Atlantic. The
north line of Oregon is of the same latitude as central Maine,
and yet west of the Cascade Mountains flowers bloom out of
doors all winter. The Cascade Range makes a wide difference
in the temperature of the east and west sections. The range
of the thermometer at Portland, near the coast, is from 22°
to 96°, while at Baker City, in the extreme eastern part of the
state, the range is from — 14° to 101° ; the mean temperature
for the state, however, is 50° There are few, if any, sections
of the state in which cattle or sheep require shelter and extra
feeding during the winter months. The bunch grass of the
plains cures itself into hay^ on the groimd.

The seasons in the west section are divided into the wet and
the drv, rather than the winter and the summer seasons. The
wet season extends from November 15 to March 15, during the
greater part of which time rain falls copiously. On the im-
mediate coast the precipitation varies from 105 inches, at
Gold Beach, in the extreme southwestern part of the state, to
81.96 at Fort Stevens, at the mouth of the Columbia ; from fifty-
five to sixty-six inches at different points in the Willamette
Vallev ; in eastern Oregon from 75.73 inches, at the Cascade
locks, in the gorge of the Columbia, to 9.81 inches at Umatilla ;
and from fourteen to seventeen inches in the highlands of Lake
County, adjoining the California line.

Resources. — In the extent of its agricultural, mineral and
forest resources, Oregon ranks very high, yet its possibilities
for development have been only partially realized. The state
is largely devoted to agriculture, the western part of the state,
especially the Willamette, Umpqua and Rogue River valleys,
having the highest cultivated farming lands. On the other
hand, eastern Oregon, which has a very fertile volcanic soil,
extensive areas of which, in the northeastern part of the state,
are devoted to the raising of the cereals, mostly wheat, without
irrigation, and where the land is too arid for the raising of
crops without irrigation, is devoted to stock grazing. In 1900,

OREGON

257

258 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

10,071,328 acres, or one-sixth of the total area of the state,
were in farms, and one-third of this amount was improved.
The principal farm crops were : Wheat, 14,830,000 bushels ;
hay and forage, 1,117,886 tons; oats, 6,725,828 bushels; and
potatoes, 3,761,367 bushels; value, $9,000,000; and nearly
2,000 cars of evaporated and green fruits; value, $1,500,000.
Wheat brought an average of all grades, about forty-four cents
per bushel ; hay and forage about $5.50 per ton ; oats about
thirty-one cents per bushel ; and potatoes about thirty-two cents
per bushel. Wheat in 1902 brought fifty-two cents per bushel.
The wheat crop of Oregon for 1902 was 15,512,460 bushels,
and in 1887 it was 16,100,000 bushels. The total irrigated
area in the state in 1900 was 388,310 acres, 290,256 acres being
under crop, and 98,054 under pasture. The wool product
amounted to over 20,000,000 pounds, with a value of $2,800,-
000. The value of stock was over $10,000,000; of dairy pro-
ducts, $1,500,000, and of the hop crop, $3,500,000.

The mineral resources of the state comprise all the different
metals, the value of the output for 1900 being, gold, $1,649,700;
silver (coinage value), $149,204; coal, $220,000; borax, $100,-
000; and stone, $21,663. The value of gold output was in-
creased in 1902 to $6,740,000. There are several mining dis-
tricts in the Cascades, in southern and western Oregon, but
the richest mineral belts seem to be the three mineral zones
of eastern Oregon, which are perhaps as large as any on the
American continent. One of these lies partly within the state
of Idaho and fringes the eastern boundary of Union, Baker
and Malheur counties, and is from ten to twenty miles in
width. Another zone begins at the Eagle Mountains, north-
east of Baker City, is about fifteen miles in width, and extends
in a southwesterly direction a distance of about sixty-five
miles. The third zone has the same general direction, begins
in the Elkhorn Mountains, is about twenty miles wide, and ex-
tends a distance of 100 miles. The principal districts in
eastern Oregon are in these zones, tributary to Baker City and
Sumpter.

The great natural resource of Oregon is its timber, which
is located largely on the west side of the Cascade Mountains,
where the rainfall is the greatest and the climate mild. The
manufacture of this timber into lumber leads all other indus-
tries in the value of its output, which in 1900 amounted to $10,-
352,167. Large tracts of timber stand in the Rogue River and
TJmpqua valleys, and along the Coast Range and the Cascades

OREGON

259

A TWEL\-E FOOT OREGON FIR.

260 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

to the Columbia River, as well as a fine body on the east side
of the Cascades, at the head of the Des Chutes River, and
several other points on the eastern slope of the Cascades, and
in the Blue Mountains in the northeastern part. The estimated
standing timber is 225,000,000,000 feet, of which 150,000,000,-
000 consists of fir. The damage by fire, the indiscriminate
waste, and the need of reservoir sites, has induced the govern-
ment to set aside forest reserves, and 4,500,000 acres along the
higher Cascades now constitute the reserves for this state.

The rafting of logs and piling and towing on the ocean to
San Francisco has been of late years successfully carried on.
These rafts are constructed into cigar shaped form, the logs
being firmly chained into a solid mass. The rafts are then
towed to sea by tugs. The largest of these rafts ever made
reached San Francisco in September, 1902. Its length was
one-eighth of a mile, it drew 24 feet of water and contained
6,000,000 feet of piling, scaling nearly 8,000,000 feet of lum-
ber, board measure.

In 1900 the manufacturing establishments of Oregon num-
bered 3,088, having more than doubled since 1890, due to the
abundant water powers, the increasing railway systems, and
the better condition of the roads. These establishments repre-
sented a capital investment of $33,422,393, and distributed
during the year the sum of $18,333,433 in wages to 17,236
employes, of which 1,821 were women. The value of the raw
material used was over twenty-six million dollars and the fin-
ished product over forty-six million dollars. Ship and boat
building has had quite an impetus, seventeen yards now being
in operation. Flour and grist mill industries rank second in
the state, the product values amounting to $6,364,023. The
canning and preserving of fish, chiefly salmon caught in the
Columbia River, ranks third, with products valued at $1,788,-
809. This industry dates from 1866, and is chiefly centered at
Astoria, embracing some of the canneries in Washington. The
salmon fisheries of the Columbia are the most extensive in the
world. The danger of exhausting the salmon has been averted
by establishing hatcheries on the river's tributaries.

In 1902 the product of the nine leading industries of the
state equaled $47,000,000, or more than $100 for every man,
woman and child in the state.

Transportation. — Oregon has a complete system of rail-
way communication, extending east and west across the north-
ern part of the state, in the lines of the Oregon Railway &

OREGON

261

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262 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Navigation Company, which follows the Columbia River,
through the Cascade Mountains, and connects at Hrwitington
with the Oregon Short Line Railway, for all Idaho and eastern
points, and at Umatilla and Pendleton for Spokane, Washing-
ton, and the Coeur d'Alene mines in northern Idaho, and
ramifies the great wheat plains of the Columbia Basin. The
connection with the Great Northern and Northern Pacific at
Spokane and at Butte, Montana, gives a northwestern outlet.
The Columbia River at present is navigable to The Dalles,
and the Willamette to Eugene, 146 miles. Some of the rivers,
rising in the coast range and emptying into the sea, are navi-
gable for a considerable distance. The Southern Pacific line
not only connects Portland and San Francisco with one main
line, but traverses the Willamette Valley with three other lines.
The Corvallis & Eastern Railway extends from Yaquina Bay
nearly to the summit of the Cascade Mountains, and this road
is expected to make a short line to the east. The Astoria &
Columbia River Valley Railway connects Portland with Astoria
and the ocean. The Columbia Southern Railway leaves the
Oregon Railway & Navigation Company at Biggs, east of the
Cascade Mountains, and is extending its road gradually up the
Des Chutes River, having now reached Shanico. The ocean
transportation, as far up as Portland, for the largest vessels
and the smaller coast craft, and the various seaports of the
state, especially Yaquina Bay and Coos Bay, afford all re-
quirements. The Willamette River is navigable for 150 miles.
Lands. — In igoo there were about 35,000,000 acres of public
lands open to settlement. Of these, 5,000,000 acres were school
lands, which are offered at from $1.25 per acre upward.

COUNTIES.

Baker County adjoins the Idaho line and lies between
Union County on the north and Malheur County on the south.
The Powder River bovmds it on the north, and most of the
valley of this river and of Burnt Creek, both of which empty
into the Snake River, Eagle and Pine valleys, are embraced
in this county. Farming is confined to the valleys, and irriga-
tion in most cases is necessary, but there is ample water for
all the valley land. The cereals, tame grasses and alfalfa do
well. The grasses of the upland furnish range for 40,000 head
of cattle and 15,000 sheep, and there is some dairying. Tim-
ber covers, in unbroken stretches, hundreds of thousands of

OREGON

263

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264 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

acres on the mountains, and many openings are here offered in
the sawmill line. Mining is the largest and most prominent
industry. The surrounding mines have given quite an impetus
to Sumpter, a thriving mining town in the Blue Mountains,
and the terminus of the Sumpter Valley Railway. A smelter
is now being constructed and an extension of the railway is
under way, while an electric line is being built from Sumpter
into the higher altitudes. The mines here are advancing
rapidly, new strikes having been made, showing the strength
and continuity of the veins. Capital from all parts of the
United States is being invested. The city had a population of
1,700 in 1900 and to-day probably has 4,000 people. It is build-
ing rapidly, has 150 business houses, and prices are advanc-
ing.

At Huntington the passengers who have been traveling on
the Oregon Short Line Railway through Idaho, having
crossed the Snake River, take the Oregon Railway & Naviga-
tion Company, which road conveys them either to Portland
or Spokane, as they may elect. This being the end of a divi-
sion, it is a railroad town with a population of 821.

Baker City, on the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company,
is the county seat and the center for the agricultural and min-
ing regions. It had, in 1900, a population of 6,663 '^'''d today
probably has 7,500. It is the largest city east of the Cascade
Mountains, has several banks, an opera house, the most pre-
tentious hotel east of Portland, large business houses, a smelter,
sawmill, etc. A large irrigation canal on the Powder River
nearby will bring into use from 60,000 to 100,000 acres of land.
Improved lands in this county range from $20 to $40 per acre.
They can be had on part cash payment.

Union County, when being established, was evidently cut
to fit the configuration of the country, and to cover the entire
Grande Ronde Valley. It covers an area of about 3,000 square
miles, three-fourths of which have been surveyed. The un-
surveyed portions are mostly mountainous, but valuable for
timber and pasturage. The largest body of agricultural land
in the county is that of the celebrated Grande Ronde Valley,
which covers 300,000 acres of rich, level land. This is in the
heart of the Blue Mountains, which rise to a height of several
thousand feet. The Grande Ronde River flows through the
county in a northeasterly direction, and many other streams
reach it from the hills on its course. Irrigation is not required
at all for the cereals in this valley and but little for fruit. The

OREGON

265

chief products are fruits, cereals, sugar beets, minerals, stock
and lumber. There are about 15,000 head of cattle and 30,000
sheep in the county. Fruit does remarkably well, as high as
thirty boxes of apples having been picked from a mature tree.
Prunes are also a good crop. A sugar beet factory has been
established at La Grande, which is annually using the beet
crop from 3,500 acres, and can use the product from double
that acreage. The land is well adapted to the raising of
wheat, the crop for 1900 being 2,000,000 bushels, and there
are good opportunities here for those desiring to raise this or
any other crop. Timber is abundant and there are many saw-

mill sites available. The climate is vcr}' hcalth\', the winters
are short and sharp, but the air is dry. Improved valley farms,
part cash payments, from $30 to $40 per acre.

Union, the county seat, is located on the Oregon Railway &
Navigation Company line, and has a population of 937. Near
this town is Hot Lake, which has acquired an extensive reputa-
tion. This is a lake of hot, steaming water, about 300 yards
in diameter. A hotel with bath houses affords good accommo-
dation for visitors. La Grande, the principal city of the
count}-, is located on the same railroad and has a population of
2,191. This is a growing town, the repair shops of the rail-

266 GUIDE TO THS GREAT NORTHWEST

way compam' being located here. It is also the end of the
mountain division. It has sawmills, a sugar beet factory,
banks, stores, and two newspapers.

Wallowa County lies in the northeast corner of the state,
is bounded on the north by Washington, on the east by Idaho,
and on the south and west by Union County. This county
partakes of the same nature as the southeastern counties of
Washington, lying along the Blue Mountains and covering
the valleys of several streams which flow into the Snake River.
A portion of its eastern boundary is the Grande Ronde River,
and the deep canyon of the Snake River borders it on the east.
It has a population of about 6,000, and produced in 1900 about
400,000 bushels of wheat, besides other cereals, and 100,000
pounds of butter and cheese, with considerable fruit. There
were 95,000 head of sheep and goats, 14,000 head of cattle,
and 9,000 head of horses in the county in 1900. Beans have
become quite an extensive crop. No irrigation is required for
the cereals, but it is necessary for fruit.

Enterprise, the county seat, is an inland town on the Wallowa
River, reached from Union, on the Oregon Railway & Naviga-
tion Company, by stage. Wallowa and Joseph are enterprising
towns. Improved lands can be bought in the county for $8
to $10 per acre.

Umatilla County lies west of Union County, along the
Washington line, and the Columbia River. Its location is di-
rectly south of Walla Walla County and is a part of that valley,
the Walla Walla River rising in this county. The Umatilla
River rises in the Blue Mountains and flows westward through
the county to the Columbia River. This county contains about
2,000,000 acres of agricultural lands, about one-fourth of
which are under cultivation. It has a population of 18,000 and
is considered the great wheat county of eastern Oregon, pro-
ducing annually about 4,000,000 bushels. The other cereals
are largely grown and their straw is cut for hay, but alfalfa
is the main dependent and is a very profitable crop. There are
grazing on the plains of this county about 130,000 sheep, 15,000
head of cattle, and 13,000 head of horses. Many sheep are
run upon the grain stubble during the winter, and in the sum-
mer pastured higher up in the mountains, where the feed stays
green. The soil of this county is of a volcanic character and
is exceedingly fertile, though semi-arid. Dairying is carried
on in the southern part, 300,000 pounds of butter and 100,000
pounds of cheese having been produced in 1900. The wool

OREGON

267

PICTURED ROCKS OF THE COLUMBIA.

Lee Moorhouse, Am. Photo, rendleton, Ore.

2G8 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

clip handled at Pendleton during that year amounted to 6,000,-
000 pounds. One hundred thousand bushels of apples were
raised in the county, and 20,000,000 feet of lumber manufac-
tured.

The summer season is very dry, the necessary moisture for
crop production coming in rain and snow during the wet sea-
son. Irrigation is required for alfalfa and for fruits. The
summer weather is hot, and the winters short and moderate.
A very large part of the wheat crop is ground by the local
mills, the product being sold throughout the surrounding coun-
try and shipped abroad. Much of the wool is cleaned and
manufactured at the mills in Pendleton, into blankets, which
have a wide reputation, especially those of the attractive Indian
patterns.

The soil in the volcanic wheat belt is so very light that
when the heavy loads of wheat are being hauled to market
the roads become deeply cut and several inches of dust lie upon
them. In casting about for a remedy, it was decided to ask
the general public to assist in hauling and depositing straw upon
the roads, and some one day be decided upon on which general
co-operation could be had. This day was inaugurated at
Walla Walla, and is now quite generally participated in. It is
known as "straw day," and is usually one of the early days of
September, the crop having been harvested by that time. In
1902, on this day, a grand barbecue was held at Walla Walla,
and 100 wagons, loaded with straw, were headed by the mayor
of the city and a brass band while the straw was being hauled
and placed upon the roads.

A novelty in the extensive wheat regions is the connection
of the farms by telephone by utilizing the barb wire fencing.
Some of the telephone companies have many hundreds of miles
of such line, with poles only where a "lift" is required at road
crossings.

Lands in this county range from $10 to $40 per acre. Stock
range lands from $1 to $5 per acre. The Umatilla Indian
Reservation occupies several townships of land in the central
and southern part of the county. These Indians have largely
intermarried with the whites.

Pendleton, the county seat, is situated on the Oregon Rail-
way & Navigation Company main line ; from here a branch
connection is made with Spokane and all northern points.
Pendleton is a thriving city of 5,000 inhabitants, has good
buildings, several banks, manufacturing establishments, and

OREGON

269

carries on a prosperous trade. Umatilla is also a junction of
another branch of the Oregon Railway & Navigation Com-
pany, extending up the Columbia River, where connection
from Portland is made with Spokane. Other towns are
Athena, Weston and Newton.

Morrow County lies west of Umatilla County and along
the Columbia River. This is another of the semi-arid counties
which raises the cereals without irrigation, about 750,000
bushels of wheat and 100,000 bushels of barley being produced
annually. The land is covered with launch grass and is well
adapted to stockraising, which is an extensive industrv. There
are some large flocks of sheep owned here, amounting in all to

A BUNCH OF OREGON SHORTHORNS RAISED AT HEPPNER.

130,000 head, and some blooded stock of the best strains. The
wool clip in this county reaches about2, 500,000 pounds per year.
The county has an area of 900 square miles and a population of
4,200. Lands which have been sown to wheat can be obtained
for from $6 to $15 per acre. The Willow River rises in the
Blue Mountains and flows northwest through the county. Good
coal in extensive beds has been found in the Willow Creek
district. The Oregon Railway & Navigation Company rjjain
line traverses the northern part of the county, and a branch
extends to Heppner, the county seat, which has a population
of 1,400, and is the headquarters for a large wool and stock
country to the south. This is a very prosperous town. lone

270 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

is a great business town and has a population of 600. There
is some government land to be obtained under the government
laws in this county, and some very good openings are available
for farmers desiring to buy.

Gilliam County lies west of Morrow and along the Colum-
bia River, is bounded on the west by the John Day River, and
is traversed by Thirty Mile and Rock creeks, which flow into
the John Day. The surface of this county is rolling, but it
has little timber. It is semi-arid, the soil being fertile but re-
cjuiring irrigation for all crops except the cereals. Therefore
the principal business is stockraising, there being about 70,000
heacl of sheep grazing, though considerable fruit is raised, this
being a fine agricultural district. This is the sportsman's
paradise, as there is an abundance of trout in the streams, and
bear, deer and small game are to be found in the hills. The
Oregon Railway & Navigation Company traverses the north-
ern part of the county along the Columbia River, on which
railway Arlington, the principal town, is located. Condon is
the county seat, a small inland town in the southern part of
the county. There is some government land here yet untaken.
Lands can be had, fairly well improved, for $10 per acre.

Sherman County lies along the Columbia River and be-
tween the Des Chutes River on the east and the John Day
River on the west. It is another of the semi-arid counties, has
an extensive farming district, and considerable stock interests.
The Oregon Railway & Navigation Company main line fol-
lows the Columbia River on the north, and the Columbia South-
ern Railway has built from Biggs south through the county.
Moro, on the latter road, is the county seat. This is the out-
let of the whole Des Chutes country to the south. Its general
characteristics are about the same as the counties adjoining
to the east. This is the second largest wheat county in the
state, the crop for 1900 being 3,000,000 bushels. In 1902 it
raised one-sixth of the total wheat crop of the state. Land is
worth $10 per acre.

Wasco County lies along the Columbia River and extends
from the summit of the Cascades on the west to the Des Chutes
on the east in its northern part, a distance of sixty-six miles,
and to John Day River, on the southern part. The area of
thi? county is 3,315 square miles, or over 2,000,000 acres, of
which 81,000 are under cultivation, and over 1,500,000 remain
untaken. This is a large county and one of varied conditions.
The Columbia River here flows through the great gorge it has

OREGON

271

CASTLE ROCK. COLUMBIA RIVER.

Copyriglit, 1901, by Geo. M. W'eister, Portland, Ore,

272 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

worn or forced through the Cascade Mountains. Mount Hood
stands on the western boundary and from its summit a pan-
orama of great beauty spreads out before the eye. The Cas-
cade Mountains are heavily wooded on their eastern slope, and
from their side streams run through the plateau to the Des
Chutes River and northward to the Columbia. This county
would be classed as a semi-arid county, but it is less so than the
counties to the east. The uplands have a volcanic soil, and
produce the cereals without irrigation, while the valleys have
an alluvial soil susceptible of irrigation. About 750,000
bushels of wheat are raised annually. There are 125,000
sheep and goats, 5,000 head of cattle, and 5,000 head of horses
grazing in the county. The fruit and berry industry is very
important, the Hood River district having produced both
fruit and berries in prodigious quantities and of excellent
quality. Those most successfully grown are apples, pears,
peaches, apricots, prunes, plums, cherries, grapes and straw-
berries, which are shipped to the east, many reaching New
York, and some have even crossed the ocean. About 6,000
acres have been set out to orchards and 300 acres to grapes,
besides large districts to vines, mostly strawberries. Of the
1901 crop, 40,000 crates, or four-fifths of the entire straw-
berry crop of the county, were shipped from Hood River.
The estimate of the strawberry acreage in the Hood River and
Salmon River valleys is 350 acres, which realized a net profit
of $150 an acre to the owners. Hood River strawberries are
becoming known everywhere. Two hundred car loads were
shipped in 1902, less than one-tenth of the best lands of the
valley being under cultivation. The apples here are of a re-
markable size and flavor.

The climate is quite equable, the extreme being from — 12° to
108°, the mean being about 52°, and the rainfall averaging
about sixteen inches. Lumbering is a prominent business and
aiTords some good openings. Fruit lands under a high state of
cultivation are worth from $300 to $500 per acre. There are
other and much cheaper lands, and there are some good home-
steads left in more remote localities. A ten acre farm, suitable
for fruit, but not under cultivation, can be bought for from
$40 to $50 per acre. Wheat lands and stock lands, $10 per
acre. The population of this county in 1900 was 13,199.

The Dalles, the county seat and most prominent citv, is lo-
cated on the Columbia River and on the Oregon Railway &
_ Navigation Company. It has a population of 4,000, and is the

OREGON

273

274 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

trade center of a large agricultural region. It has good schools,
an academy, banks, brick and stone buildings, flour mills, two
large wool scouring establishments, and water works. The
city is one of the great wool shipping points of the United
States. A boat trip on the Regulator Line from The Dalles
to Portland is most delightful.

Hood River is a place of great prominence as a health and
pleasure resort, the climate is of special value to invalids, and
the vicinity possesses many remarkable attractions in the way
of magnificent scenery, being the nearest point of access to
Alount Hood and Alount Adams. It is a place much cele-
brated for its apples and strawberries, both of which are de-
licious. Here is located the picturesque and famous Cloud
Cap Inn, a structure built of fir logs, and supplied with every-
thing that is attractive to the traveler. Four miles from the
Inn is the summit of Mount Hood. Shanico, on the Columbia
Southern, is a great wool center and at present the outpost of
the upper Des Chutes country. The Warm Springs Indian
Reservation occupies a part of the southern end of the county.

Grant County lies west of Baker County and on the south
and west slopes of the Blue Mountains. Railway connection
has been made with Baker City via the Sulphur Valley Road,
which is now being extended along the John Day River. This
county is somewhat mountainous, but covers the fertile valleys
of the three forks of the John Day River. Stockraising is its
principal industry, there being 15,000 cattle and 100,000 sheep
in the county, large shipments being made annually. The
sawing of lumber is now opening up on account of the in-
creased transportation facilities. This county, being away
from the general line of travel, offers a good opportunity to
the home-seeker. Can)'on city is the county seat, and is now
reached by rail.

Wheeler County lies west of Grant County, covering the
southwestern end of the Blue Mountains and the bend of the
John Day River. Its characteristics are about the same as
Grant and Gilliam counties; it is a vast bunch grass region,
well watered, and now used principally for ranging stock.
This county also offers good opportunities to the homeseeker.
Fossil, the county seat, is an inland town, located on Cotton-
wood Creek, in the northwest part of the county.

Crook County. — This is quite a large county, being ninety
miles long from east to west and eighty miles wide from north
to south, and lying in the very center of the state. Its western

OREGON

275

boundary is the summit of the Cascades and its eastern
Wheeler, Grant and Harney counties. It covers the eastern
slope of the Cascade Mountains and practically all the upper
Des Chutes and Crooked River territory. It is an arid county,
its hills are covered with grass, and for several decades has
been used solely for grazing thousands of head of sheep, cattle
and horses, there being, of the former, 175,000, and of the two
latter, 30,000 head. This county has made The Dalles a great
wool market. A large part of the covmty has been filed on
with a view of diverting water into the arid lands near the
Des Chutes River, under the Carey act, to be sold to actual

INDIAN BURYING GROUND, ME.MALOOSE ISLAND, COLUMBIA RIVER.

settlers in 160 acre tracts. The general elevation ranges from
2,500 feet to 3,500 feet above Benham Falls, or the upper
basin. It is estimated that if all these ditches are completed
over 300,000 acres will come under their services. The
Des Chutes River drains an immense area and the possibilities
are great. The population of the county in 1900 was 3,964.
Probably one of the best timber belts east of the Cascades is
at or near the head of the Des Chutes River.

Prineville, the county seat, is located on the Crooked River,
has an electric light plant, a water system, two newspapers,
and 1,000 inhabitants. It is expected that the Columbia River

270 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

\'alley Railway will reach this place soon and that the Cor-
vallis & Eastern Railway will cross the county on its way east
and probably form a junction at this point.

Malheur County is in the extreme southeastern corner of
the state. It is another large county, being sixty miles wide
and 120 miles long, having an area of over 7,000 square miles.
The principal rivers are the Owyhee and Malheur, both of
which are large streams. The surface of the county is of a
high altitude and very dry. The lands along the streams are
quite fertile and frequently spread into grass valleys of con-
siderable width. Those along the two large rivers are con-
sidered the best in the county. The United States government
has been investigating this section and the report is that' irri-
gation is feasible over small areas. There is much government
land available. Considerable placer mining has been carried
on from time to time from the date of the early settlers cross-
ing this count}', and there is a prospect of good mines being
opened. Himtington is the nearest railway point. There are
^0,000 head of cattle and horses and 300,000 sheep grazing
in the county.

A-'ale is the county seat, located on the Malheur River in the
northern part of the county. There is a paper published at
this place and another at Ontario.

Harney County is one of the southern tier of counties lying
west of Malheur. It has a total area of 9,986 square miles,
more than the states of Rhode Island and Massachusetts to-
gether, and has a population of 3,000.. Its surface is made up
of rolling hills, deep canyons, the lofty Steins Mountains and
lakes and streams. The scenery here is unsurpassed, the cli-
mate is arid, and the soil is good along the creek bottoms, pro-
ducing a variety of grasses. The crops raised are wheat, bar-
ley and rye. No irrigation has yet taken place. Sixty thou-
sand head of cattle, as many sheep, and 15,000 head of horses
are now being grazed. Huntington, on the C)regon Railway &
Navigation Company, is the nearest railroad point. Burns,
the county seat, has a population of 600. The western part of
this county belongs to the desert tract spoken of in the general
matter.

Lake County is another of the southern tier of counties and
extends from the Nevada line to Crook County on the north,
and lies west of Harney County. It embraces a territory of
8,000 square miles and contains some of the best farming and
grazing lands in the state. The country is arid, but the soil is

OREGON

277

278

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

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principally a sandy loam, easilv worked,
and retains sufficient moisture to insure the
maturing of crops. The cereals, grasses
and vegetables do well. This county has an
abundance of timber and there are some
good openings here. Stock sales in 1900
amounted to over a million dollars. Recent
estimates give 30,000 head of cattle and
300,000 head of sheep as grazing.

Lake View, the county seat, is located
five miles north of Goose Lake, and has
good buildings, good mail facilities, and a
population of 1,000. Stage communication
is had with Ashland, on the Southern Pa-
cific. There are many lakes in this county
and the elevation is high. The extreme
% northern part belongs

to the sage plains, or
desert territory, where
the streams sink. If
the Great Central
Railway, projected
from Coos Bay, is ex-
tended across the Cas-
cades, it will cross the
county east and west,
and it is believed that
the extension of the

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A LOG CHUTE.

UKliljUINI

279

Columbia Southern Railway will meet it somewhere in the Sil-
ver Creek Valley.

Klamath County extends from Lake County on the east
to the summit of the Cascades on the west, and is the last of
the counties in eastern Oregon. It lies very high, mostly at
at elevation of about 4,200 feet ; is well watered and therefore
can be irrigated, and raises grain in abundance. It has an
area of about 4,000,000 acres, of which one-third is timber,
estimated to possess fifteen billion feet of sugar and yellow
pine. The county is pre-eminently fitted for stockraising and
is noted for its stock shipments, the cattle far exceeding the
sheep. It is one of the most attractive counties of Oregon,
but being without transportation its settlement has scarcely
begun; it now has a population of about 4,000. In 1900 eight

THRESHED AND SACKED.

thousand acres were under cultivation, more than 100,000
bushels of grain were raised, over 100,000 tons of hay cut.
100,000 pounds of butter and cheese made, thirteen thousand
bushels of fruit was picked, and 1,000,000 feet of lumber was
sawed.

This county is attracting considerable attention at present,
due to the near prospect of transportation, and irrigation works
under the Carey act. The county is traversed by mountain
streams abounding in trout, and is dotted with lakes, of which
Klamath and Crater have been previously mentioned. These
will certainly in time make this county a great resort. Cres-
cent Lake, another lake five miles long, lies in the northern
part ; the whole county is volcanic and abounds in springs,
lakes and underground rivers. Two ditches from Little Kla-

280 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

math Lake have for several years irrigated 20,000 acres of
land. Four new ditches that will water 10,000 acres have
been made from the forks of Sprague River ; two new ditches
on the Klamath Reservation will cover 50,000 acres ; in addi-
tion several other projects are on foot. Alfalfa does well here
and dairying has been very profitable. This county is advanc-
ing and offers good opportunities. The county seat is Ivlamath
Falls, the population of which is about 700. Two papers are
published here and it has a stage line to Ashland, on the
Southern Pacific, the air line distance being fifty miles.

THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY.

The counties of this valley are Multnomah, Clackamas, Mar-
ion, Linn, Washington, Yamhill, Polk, Benton and Lane, and
comprise all the territory west of the Cascade Mountains lying
between these mountains and the Coast Range, and extending
from the Columbia River to the Calapooia Mountains, the
dividing ridge between this and the Umpqua Valley on the
south. This is the principal valley of the state, and constitutes
the wealthiest portion of Oregon. It is drained by the Willa-
mette River, which is navigable for 150 miles. The valley has
an average width of sixty miles and an area of 7,800 square
miles. From the Coast Range flow the Coast Fork, the
Tualatin, Chehalem, Yamhill, La Creole, Luckiamute, Marys,
Long Tom and Calapooia rivers, and many come in also from
the east, or Cascade side. Some of these rivers are navigable
and each drains a considerable country. The flanks, or slopes
of this wonderful valley are covered with forests, valuable for
lumber. The elevation of the center of the valley ranges from
seventy feet at the base of the falls at Oregon City, to 400
feet at the southern part of the valley. The level bottoms of
the valley are mostly prairie land, but surrounding this is a belt
of rolling land, verging into the hills and mountains. This is
a very valuable part of the valley, has a very rich soil, and its
products are more diversified than those of the lower valley.
These foot-hill lands lie at an elevation of from 500 to 2,000
feet, and have been found especially adapted to fruit. The
low altitude of this valley and its mild and moist climate make
all kinds of products grow in abundance — the cereals, veg-
etables, hops, fruits, and everything common to a temperate
clime. In 1900 it produced 2,700,000 bushels of wheat.

We will describe the counties along the east bank of the

UKbGUiNI

281

BELLE OF WISHRAM. TKE BEADED DRESS SHE WEARS IS OF GREAT VALUE,

Lee Moorhouse, Am. Photo. Pendleton, Ore,

282 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Willamette first. The land in Multnomah County, lying in
the Columbia and Willamette valleys, is rolling, but mostly
valley land, and is devoted to hop raising and gardening, being
so near the city of Portland. Lumber manufacturing is car-
ried on extensively both on the Columbia and Willamette at
Portland.

Portland is a beautiful city of 125,000 inhabitants, situated
on the Willamette River, twelve miles from its junction with
the Columbia, and no miles from the ocean. It is the chief
city of Oregon, and, lying so near Washington, controls much
of that trade in addition to the trade of Oregon. The claim is
made, and it seems to be well established, that Portland is one
of the wealthiest cities per capita in the United States. Large
steamers and sailing craft from all parts of the world come
to the wharves here for wheat, flour and lumber. Lumber is
manufactured on a vast scale and flour milling is one of the
largest industries. In addition to the water communication by
steamers on the Columbia and Willamette rivers, and the ocean
fleets sailing to domestic and foreign ports, Portland is a great
railway center. The Southern Pacific lines not only ramify
the Willamette \'alley, but are a part of a through system to
the south and to the east. To the north the Northern Pacific
connects with Puget Sound and British Columbia points, and
is a part of the vast railway system throughout the north-
western states to the great lakes. The Oregon Railroad &
Navigation Company, whose lines pass up the Columbia River,
joining the L'nion Pacific lines at Huntington, and by the
north and south route at Pocatello, give a choice of route to
St. Paul through Montana or eastward direct to Chicago. This
road reaches the vast wheat fields of the Columbia Basin
through the great gorge of the Columbia, thus saving the moun-
tain climb of the other railways, and makes another eastern
connection at Spokane. There is strong probability of a bridge
spanning the Cokmibia River at Vancouver, which will allow
the cut-ofT line of the Northern Pacific to enter the city without
making the circuitous route by way of Puget Sound. The
Columbia River & Astoria Railway reaches Astoria and the
ocean, and thus all points of the compass are covered.

The shipments of wheat to Europe have been regal ; of flour
to the Orient vast, and the largest of lumber cargoes that have
ever been sent from any port in the United States have gone to
Vladivostock and other Oriental, South American and South
African ports. The imports have also been large, comprising

OREGON

283

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284 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

such articles as tea, coffee, sugar, silks, rice, etc. Fifty-three
steamships, with an average capacity of 5,000 tons, left the
Portland docks with export cargoes in 1 90 1. They carried, be-
sides wheat and lumber, flour, cotton, paper, beer, fish products,
fruits, stock, wool and miscellaneous merchandise. In 1902
fifty-five such ships cleared from the Portland docks. Tliir-
teen ships took 36,000,000 feet of lumber, an average of nearly
3,000,000 feet to the cargo. Craft carrying grain only from
this port numbered 130. The fleet in this enormous business
covers ships, both steam and sail, of all sizes, and under almost
every flag, the outgoing and returning cargoes making up a
mighty commerce from this port. Portland claims for Septem-
ber, 1902, a record breaking month on grain exports, a total of
the cereals of 1,177,330 bushels having been exported. More
than one million dollars was spent in 1902 in improving Port-
land's harbor.

The only water-level pass through the mountains, from
Mexico to British Columbia, is occupied by the Oregon Rail-
road & Navigation Company, and this has had as much influ-
ence as any in making Portland the financial and commercial
center it is to-day. New and great ships are being added to the
present fleet to connect with the Harriman lines, and the city
itself is reaching out on every hand.

The latest movement for extension and notice to the world
is the great Lewis and Clark Centennial and Oriental Fair,
to be held in Portland in 1905, commemorative of that famous
expedition which contributed so much to the winning of the
Oregon Country to the United States. This expedition is
treated in the early history of the Northwest. The Fair is in
the hands of a strong executive board. It has the approval and
support of the people of the Northwest, and its success is as-
sured.

Portland is a city of refinement and fine residences. Its
hotels surpass any in the Northwest ; its public buildings are
substantial and ornate. Its educational institutions are many
and its modern improvements equal to any eastern citv. Port-
land is an extremely healthy city, the sanitary requirements
being the best, the water in use being procured from the clear
running streams on the sides of Mount Hood. The climate is
salubrious.

The jobbing trade of Portland for 1902 was $150,000,000,
the value of the manufactures $35,000,000, and about one-
fourth of the wheat of the entire Pacific Coast has been shipped

OREGON

285

286 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

from this port. The city boasts of 1,500 business firms, rated
at $50,000,000, while its bank clearances for 1902 amounted to
$151,000,000. It has four national banks and ten private
banks, the deposits in which aggregate over $25,000,000. The
city has an able and enterprising press, consisting of news-
papers, morning and evening dailies and weeklies, and com-
mercial and financial papers.

To see Portland rightly one should take the street car to
the highlands above the city on the west, where, on a clear
day, can be seen a wide expanse of territory. In the immediate
foreground the city itself, with the Willamette River and its
foreign fleets, separating the eastern and western parts ; far
to the right rises majestic Mount Hood; still farther to the
south Mount Jefferson ; to the left and north of the Columbia
River, Mount Adams ; farther to the left, appearing almost
at your very door, stands Mount St. Helens ; while very far to
the north the top of grand old Mount Rainier can be seen — five
in all, a procession of snow-clad peaks unequaled in any coun-
try.

A move is now on foot to build an electric road from^ Port-
land to Mount Hood, to be completed in time for the exposi-
tion. \'ery interesting trips can be made from Portland to
Willamette Falls, Astoria and the mouth of the Columbia River,
by steamers and by rail, also to Vancouver, Washington, the
army post and original Hudson's Bay Company fort by steamer
or electric car, and last, but not least, the trip to the Cascades
of the Columbia, which no one should miss.

There is a mountain climbing club, with headquarters at
Portland, which calls its members "The Mazamas." It has
successfully conducted outings to Mount Hood and to Crater
Lake, Oregon, and Mount Adams, and also to Mount Rainier,
in \\'ashington, at stated intervals. These excursions are
open to all lovers of nature. The name "Mazama" is from the
Spanish, meaning mountain goat. This club has a membership
throughout many states, which is limited to those who have
climbed to the summit of a snow clad peak that is acceptable
to the club. Mountaineering has received cj^uite a stimulus
from this organization.

In Clackamas County the soils are either a sandv loam,
a black loam, or, on the uplands, a red loam, and •■•are
generally very rich. Oregon City is the county seat and is
situated twelve miles above Portland, on the Willamette River,
with which it is connected by the Southern Pacific Railway, an

OREGON

287

288 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

electric line, and several steamboat lines. The falls of the
Willamette River here afford as fine a water power as there
is in the United States. This makes Oregon City a manufac-
turing point. The horsepower of the falls is 50,000 as against
JMinneapolis' 20,000. Woolen, flour, pulp and paper mills,
a shoe factory, and other industries, are located here, besides
the plant of the Portland General Electric Co., one of the
largest of its kind in the west. These plants employ altogether
more than 1,000 men. The population within a radius of one
mile is about 6,000. Boat transportation is afforded up and
down the river, as locks have been constructed, which admit
steamboats to the upper river.

The western part of Marion County is very le-^el, is mostly
good farming land, and aggregates about 450,000 acres. The
soils are much more diversified, and the lower lands are much
damper than the hilly lands, which makes two distinct seed
times and harvests. This is distinctively an agricultural,
stock and dairy county. Salem is the county seat of Marion
County and the capital of the state. It has a population of
about 12,000, is located on the Willamette River and the Soutli-
ern Pacific Railway. It has, besides the capitol, other public
buildings — a city hall, federal building, insane asylum, peniten-
tiary and state blind school. Salem is a handsome city, with
broad streets, and is a noted social center. All lines of busi-
ness are represented. In manufacturing there are woolen
mills, flour mills, woqdcn and metal ware and other mechanical
plants. A large warehouse for the reception of wheat and
other produce has been established, and a fruit cannery is also
located here. The city has boat and rail connections.

Linn County is a large and good agricultural county, com-
prising 2,400 square miles. It still has a vast area of timber
land, to the manufacture of which quite a share of the popula-
tion of the eastern part of the county are devoting themselves.
The general character of the soil is a dark loam, and wears
well. All kinds of grain (except corn), fruit and vegetables,
are successfully grown, wheat being the staple cereal through-
out the valley. This being about the heart of the valley it may
be well to state that the range of the mercury here is from
30° to 85°, although there are some exceptions. Snow is sel-
dom seen, and there is ample rainfall. Good stock has been
bred in most of the counties and especially in this one, and
dairying is one of its leading assets. Farms on the prairie can
be bought for $30 per acre, and in the foot hills for from $5

OREGON

289

290 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

to $15. These prices are a good average for so old a settled
country. There are openings in the valley for more saw mills,
wood factories of different kinds, and canning establishments.
The Southern Pacific Company's lines traverse the county
north and south, and the Corvallis & Eastern Railway east and
west. The western terminus of this road is at Yaquina Bay,
on the Pacific Ocean, and the eastern terminus is near the sum-
mit of the Cascade Range. It is expected the road will cross
the mountains at Minto Pass and form a short line through
eastern Oregon. Albany, the county seat, with a population
of 4,200, is situated on the Willamette River and at the junc-
tion of the two railways. It has graded schools, a Presbyterian
College, a Catholic Academy, woolen mill, two flouring mills,
cheese factory, iron works, tile factory, and fruit dryers. A
high bridge, costing $100,000, crosses the Willamette River.

Lane County is the most extreme southern county of the
valley, lying against the Calapooia Mountains, and extending
from the Cascade Mountains to the ocean, crossing the Coast
Range. It covers the entire headwaters of the Willamette
River, with all its branches, and the Siuslaw and Idds rivers,
which empty into the sea. It covers an area of about 7,000
square miles, which is exceedingly diversified, a large part be-
ing susceptible to cultivation. The mountain part is covered
with dense timber and in consequence lumber manufacturing
is extensive. The estimated standing timber is about 29,000,-
000,000 feet — more than any other county in the state. One-
third of the valley is prairie land and the balance foothills and
mountains. The foothills afford fine grazing, and are also
adapted to fruits. Wheat has been the principal product, but
fruits are now excelling. Hop growing is being practiced
quite extensively and there are now about 1,000 acres in hops.
The numerous valleys and hills afford excellent opportunities
for diversified farming. Eugene, the county seat, is located
on the Southern Pacific, and is the head of navigation on the
Willamette River. It has a population of 3,236, good build-
ings, numerous factories, tvi'O tanneries, and water works. It
is the seat of the State University of Oregon, but the adjunct
Schools of Medicine and Law are located at Portland. Siuslaw
Bay admits vessels of fair size, which trade with San Francisco
and Portland, the principal commodities being salmon, lumber,
and agricultural products. On the river of this name are saw
mills, canneries, the thriving town of Florence, and consider-
able land adapted to fruit and dairying.

OREGON

291

The counties lying on the west bank of the Willamette River
will now be taken up. After Lane County comes Benton, a
small county lying between the river and Lincoln County, which
lies on the coast, and is traversed by the Southern Pacific
through its northern part, and the Corvallis & Eastern from
east to west. The county is more or less mountainous, but
along the valleys of the Marys and Willamette rivers is well
settled and improved. This is quite a stock county. Hops,
fruits and berries are raised in large quantities. Corvallis is
the county seat, situated on both the roads mentioned and on
the Willamette River. It has a population of 1,819, is the seat

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STEEL BRIDGE OVER THE WILLAAIETTE RIVER AT ALBANY.

of the State Agricultural College and other educational insti-.
tutions.

Polk County has an area of 750 square miles, of which 112,-
500 acres were in cultivation in 1900, from which was pro-
duced 1,300,000 bushels of wheat, 1,800,000 pounds of hops,
1,500,000 pounds of dried prunes, and 11,000,000 feet of lum-
ber. This tells the story of many of the counties. The soil
on the hills is a reddish loam, and in the valleys a dark loam,
all being very fertile. This section was the seat of the first
white settlement west of the Missouri River. Dallas is the
county seat, situated on the Southern Pacific, whose two lines
traverse the eastern part of the county north and south. A

292 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

local railroad has been built from Dallas southwest into the
mountains, which serves as a commercial and logging road
combined. Dallas is making great progress.

Yamhill County, termed the banner county, from its agricul-
tural display at the state fair, contains an area of 756 square
miles and has a population of 13,420. It covers the valley of
the Yamhill River and other smaller valleys. Steamboats, by
the aid of locks, ascend the Yamhill to JMcMinnville, the county
seat. This is another of the old settled counties, dating back
to the '40's. There are under cultivation about 117,000 acres
of land, which produce bountifully. Most of this county is
prairie land. In 1902 i,-|00,ooo bushels of wheat was pro-
duced; 1,200 carloads of hops; 250 carloads of prunes; 200
of apples ; ninety of pears, and twenty-five of cherries ; besides
which many carloads of peaches, plums and berries were
shipped. The hop culture of Oregon is mainly centered in the
counties of Marion, Yamhill, Clackamas, Polk and Washing-
ton, and the estimated crops of these counties in 1900 was
3,000,000 pounds. Oregon had 15,000 acres under cultivation
out of the 54,000 acres in hops throughout the United States,
New York leading with 25,000; California, 7,000; Washington,
6,500. When hops bring ten cents per pound the net profits
of the farmer is about $40 per acre, and many years the price
is double and even more. McMinnville, the county seat, is
located on the Yamhill River, and on the Southern Pacific
Railway. The population is 1,420. It has two banks, two
flour mills, water and light plants, good schools, and a Baptist
College. Two lines of the Southern Pacific Railway traverse
the county and cross at Whiteson.

Washington County is the last of the true Willamette coun-
ties. It extends from the Coast Range to the very suburbs
of Portland. It is located in a basin, lying between the
Chehalem Hills, the Coast Range and the Portland Mountains.
The soil is a loam, imderlaid with a clay subsoil. The county
covers many valleys, but mainly that of the Tualatin River.
There are large tracts of timber in the mountainous portions.
This is a good agricultural county, well adapted to all kinds
of products and to dairying, especially since the proximity to
Portland affords the farmer the opportunity of driving to the
citv, thereby saving transportation charges on his product.
Hillsboro is the county seat, situated on the Southern Pacific,
and has a population of 1,200. It owns its water works and
electric light plant. There are opportunities here for those

OREGON

293

294 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

who desire to make a thriving suburban city, for the distance
of twenty-four miles from Portland will admit of its being
made a residence town.

Columbia and Clatsop Counties. — These counties lie
along the Columbia River, being bounded on three sides by the
river and the Pacific Ocean. Columbia County contains 723
square miles, and is mostly covered with a dense growth of
fir, from which it is not unusual to cut from 80,000 to 100,000
feet of logs from a single acre, and from 6,000,000 to 12,000,-
000 feet from a quarter section of land. The soil along the
Columbia River bottoms is alluvial, and in the interior a clay
loam. The chief industries are lumbering, stockraising, dairy-
ing and fishing. The county seat is St. Helens, on the Astoria
& Columbia River Railroad, and has a population of 1,258.
There are several canneries and mills located along the Co-
lumbia River.

Clatsop County is the extreme northwesterly county of the
state. Its surface is somewhat mountainous. In the center
stands a prominent mountain known as Saddle Mountain,
from which all the rivers radiate to the Pacific Ocean, and the
Columbia and Nehalem rivers. This county is cut up by navi-
gable bays and rivers, which afford access to most parts. The
Lewis and Clark River, which reaches the Columbia west of
Astoria, is made famous by the party which wintered on its
west bank, two miles above its mouth, in 1 805-6. This county
is covered by dense forests of fir, spruce, cedar and hemlock,
except the tideland and the Clatsop plains, which extend along
the seashore for twenty miles, with an average width of two
miles. These plains produce grass, oats, fruits and vegeta-
bles for stock. This is essentially a grass growing county,
and in consequence has large dairy interests. There are some
good cranberry marshes on the peat lands between the plains
and the uplands. The greater portion of the timber is fir, but
spruce is found in large quantities ; also considerable curly
maple, hemlock, cedar and larch. This is one of the most
heavily timbered counties in the state. Game is very plentiful,
consisting of bear, deer and elk, and trout abound in all the
streams.

Astoria is the headquarters for the salmon catching and
canning business, which is the greatest industry along the Co-
lumbia River. Nineteen canneries are located there, and nine-
teen other canneries are tributary to the city, representing over
$2,000,000 capital, giving employment to about 5,000 men and

OREGON

295

yielding an annual product of $3,000,000. The city in addi-
tion shipped 28,865,000 pounds of salmon in 1901, or 1.443
carloads of ten tons each, and shipments have run over 2,000
carloads per year. To the existence of this industry Astoria
largely owes its being. It is estimated that during the
past twenty-five years the Columbia River has yielded a value
of $75,000,000 in fish, nearly all of which has been, in a man-
ner, put in circulation in this city. There has never been a
failure of this crop, and it is therefore one of Oregon's great-
est and surest resources. At present fully one-half of the

NORTH HEAD LIGHTHOUSE, COLU.MBIA RIVER.

population of Oregon and Washington, living near the mouth
of the great river, are engaged in this pursuit. The spring
season, or run, of salmon, lasts for four months, from April
15 to August 15, meaning $750,000 monthly to those inter-
ested. The salmon are now not only canned, but pickled, and
also frozen, for shipment to diiTerent parts of the world. One
and one-half million pounds of steel-head salmon were frozen
in 1902.

Astoria's beginning dates back to 181 1, the landing of the
Astor party. Owing to traitorous partners, the fur business

296

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

became a failure, and there was not a white family left on the
bay in 1846, so its business history is after all one of compara-
tively recent date. The city is located on the south side of the
great bay or mouth of the Columbia River, which is seven
miles in width at this point. The city is built partially over the
tide flats on piling, and partly on the hillside. The residence
portion lies higher up. It has a population of about 10,000
people, who represent probably every nationalit;^ on earth.
It is the second city in size in the state, and certainly with its
commanding position as a portal to the ocean, must become a
maritime city of importance. The resources and position of
this city should support a population of at least 100,000 people.

Vow^-rtsj

FISHING BOAT

fN THE COLUMBIA.

Its saw mills must manufacture into lumber its extensive
forests ; its fisheries must continue. Mr. A. J. Johnson, the
government forestry expert, says : "The mouth of the Colum-
bia River has the greatest body of timber tributary and avail-
able of any point in the world." The estimate of timber stand-
ing accessibly at this point is 75,000,000,000 feet. The cli-
mate here is mild, the mean maximum for August being 68°
and the mean minimum for January 35.7° The precipita-
tion for the year was 67.69.

Astoria is connected with Portland and the upper river by
several lines of steamers, and with Portland by the Astoria &

OREGON

297

2i)S GUIDE TO 1ME GREAT NORTHWEST

Columbia River Railway. It is a lively cosmopolitan city, with
all needed sanitary improvements. Fort Stevens is located at
Point Stevens. From this point a jetty is being built by the
government, projecting four and a half miles into the Pacific
Ocean, at an expense of $5,000,000, to deepen the water on
the bar at the mouth of the river. There are many small sta-
tions on the Astoria & Columbia River Railway along the
ocean beach, from Seaside to the fort. These offer summer
outings for the people, while on the Washington side of the
river north of Ilwaco is perhaps as fine a stretch of beach as
can be found in the United States. This is reached by the
Oregon River & Navigation Co. steamers and a short hne of
railway.

Tillamook County lies on the ocean south of Clatsop and
has sixty miles of sea coast, with six different rivers discharg-
ing into the ocean. The Wilson River discharges into Tilla-
mook Bay, which at high tide has an average of sixteen feet
of water. Each of the six rivers referred to flows through a
rich timber belt, and each furnishes a large amount of rich
bottom land suitable for agriculture. This county has become
a great stockraising and dairy center, for which it is particu-
larly adapted. There are greater undeveloped resources here
than in any other part of the state, perhaps, and there are good
openings for men with small means. The rainfall is about the
same as Clatsop County, being not far from 100 inches. Tilla-
mook, the county seat, has a population of 834, is located on
Hoquarton Slough, at the head of the bay, and is a thriving
town.

Lincoln County lies on the Pacific Ocean south of Tilla-
mook County. From the summit near the boundary with Ben-
ton County rises the Yaquina River, which flows westerly and
empties into the bay of the same name. The Alsea River flows
westward through the southern part of the county, and the
Stiletz through the northern part. Along these streams farms
are located, producing the cereals, fruits and vegetables. The
Stiletz Valley is very rich, but most of it belongs to the Stiletz
Indian Reservation. The Yaquina River is navigable for
twenty miles, and steamers enter and depart for San Fran-
cisco and other ports. The principal towns are Newport, Ya-
quina and Toledo. The Corvallis & Eastern Railway makes
its terminus here. There are canneries at Newport, Alsea and
Kernville. There is much business transacted at the mouth
of the Yaquina and in summer time it is a resort for all the

OREGON

299

-K

300

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

upper Willamette Valley. Toledo, the county seat, on Yaquina
Bay, has a population of 302. The only places in the United
States where the rock oyster is found are at Newport and south
along the Coos County coast. These oysters are rare and
finely flavored. They are found in cells in the sand rock be-

low high tide.

Douglas County lies mainly between the Calapooia Moun-
tains, on the north, and the Rogue River Mountains, on the
south, and extends from the Cascade Mountains to the ocean,
covering the valley of the Umpqua River and its tributaries.

AN OREGON DAIKY FARM.

This is the beginning of what is ordinarily termed southern
Oregon, which is the territory encompassed by the Calapooia
the Siskiyou mountains and extending from the Cascades to
the ocean. This coimty has a frontage on the ocean of only
twenty-five miles, the Coast Range of mountains coming well
down to the beach, leaving little agricultural country between
the beach and the mountains. The latter are densely tim-
bered and lumbering is carried on extensively. The estimated
standing timber in this county is 24,000,000,000 feet, the sec-
ond largest stand in the state. The mouth of the Umpqua

OREGON

301

302 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

River furnishes an excellent harbor for coasting schooners.
Salmon canning, lumbering, placer and quartz mining are
among the principal industries, although agriculture and stock
raising are prominent. There are 21,150 cattle and 30,000
sheep grazing in this county. The total output of gold for
southern Oregon for the year 19O0 was $1,630,000, of which
Douglas County furnished $280,000. Oil has been found here
and several wells have been sunk.

Within the grand valley of the Umpqua, in the middle and
eastern part of the county, are many valleys, plains, gorges
and hills. There are two classes of soil — the sandy loam on
the river and creek bottoms, which is very rich, and an upland
loam, on the benches, also rich but not so lasting. The foot-
hills have fine grazing lands and in this county there is game
in abundance. The cereals, grasses and fruits all do well here,
and dairying is becoming well established. In 1900 the county
raised 300,000 bushels of wheat, 205,000 pounds of hops and
150,000 pounds of butter and cheese were made. There were
shipped $200,000 in value of prunes, $175,000 in cattle and
$1,000,000 in value in lumber. The Southern Pacific tra-
verses the county north and south.

Roseburg, the county seat, situated on the Southern Pacific
Railway, and the Umpqua River, is supposed to be the junc-
tion with the proposed Great Central Railway from Coos Bay.
It has a population of 3,000, good hotel accommodations, two
banks, two flour mills, electric light, water and sewerage sys-
tems. The Soldiers' Home and the United States land office
are located here. Oakland and Drain are located on the South-
ern Pacific, the latter place having the State Normal School,
and there are other good towns in the county.

Coos CouxTY borders on the Pacific Ocean for about fifty
miles, lying east and south of Douglas County, but separated
from it by the Umpqua Mountains, a part of the Coast Range.
Coos Bay is an important harbor, from which regular lines of
steamers ply between Alarshfield and San Francisco, taking
coal from the extensive mines near by, other lines taking lum-
ber, agricultural and dairy products and fish. The Coos Bay,
Roseburg & Eastern Railroad, operated as a coal road, ex-
tends from Marshfield to Myrtle Point, the head of navigation,
on the Coquille River, which drains all the southern portion of
the county and reaches the ocean at Bandon. On this river
are located several mills and canneries, and there is a daily
Steamer service. Much gold in early times was taken out of

OREGON

303

the black sands on and near the beach, and a portion of the
population still follow beach mining as a means of livelihood.
The county has a wealth of timber, being estimated by different
experts, taking into account perhaps different sizes, all the way
from twelve to twenty billion feet, consisting of about seventy-
five per cent fir, the balance white cedar, hemlock, spruce, etc.
These forests extend north of Coos Bay and along the branches
of the Coquille River. The white cedar found in Coos, Curry,
Douglas and a part of Josephine counties, on the west side of

CABB-'^GE ROCK, COLUMBIA RIVER.

the Coast Range, possesses the finest qualities of any timber
known to commerce. The percentage of clear lumber is very
high, the wood is very sound and has a highly aromatic odor,
and is greatly prized for its lasting qualities. This timber can-
not be eqtialled on the continent. The common name for this

304

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

tree is "Port Orford Cedar." A number of oil wells have also
been sunk in this county.

Coos Bay is pre-eminently the best harbor in Oregon south
of the Columbia River, and at this point the projectors of the
Great Central Railroad, a road intended to connect with eastern
lines at Salt Lake, have purchased an extensive tract of land,
covering a large portion of the shore line of the bay, and are
developing the country at a very fast rate. Surveys have been
made, other lands and locations obtained at various points, and
to all appearances Coos Bay is soon to become the terminal of
a transcontinental system.

Good agricultural lands are found along the creek and river
bottoms, and the uplands furnish good grazing lands. There

are some excellent orchards and many dairies in the county. In
mining the gold output for this and Curry County was $275,000.

Empire City is the county seat, situated on Coos Bay, its
population being 185. Marshfield is the principal town, where
are located coal bunkers, three saw mills, a tannery, furniture
factory, etc. The place has a population of 3,500. Other
places are Myrtle Point, Coquille City, Bandon and Bangor, the
latter being the new town established by the Great Central in-
terests.

Jackson, Josephine and Curry Counties constitute the
three southern counties and cover the valley of the Rogue
River. The first named embraces the upper valley of the Rogue

OREGON

305

River and it tributaries ; the second, the middle valley and
tributaries, and the third, the lower valley and the ocean beach.
The arable lands in Jackson County comprise the valley, table
and rolling lands. AH the cereals do well and fruits have an
especial record. The climate here is much warmer than in the
counties to the north, and corn grows fairly well. Most of the
level land lies at and near the town of ]\Iedford, perhaps the
largest of any body in southern Oregon, this being at the con-
fluence of Bear Creek and Rogue River. Medford shipped
60,000 crates of peaches and 2,600 crates of raspberries in
1902. Jacksonville, the county seat, has a population of 653 ;

UNLOADING SALitO.V.

A'ledford, about 3,000, and x\shland, 2,634. A state normal
school is located at Ashland. The gold output for 1900 was
$400,000, mostly by h)'draulic plants.

In Josephine County the valleys are narrower, but fruits are
grown as well as in Jackson County, and it may be said that
both are the home of the peach. Tobacco is quite successfully
grown. Gold was first found in Oregon at Kirbysville and
gold mining is carried on extensively, the output for 1900
being $675,000. The county seat is Grants Pass, situated on
the Southern Pacific, which road traverses both Jackson and
Tosephine counties, also on the Rogue River, and has a popula-
20

306 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

tion of 2,290. This is a stirring place, with good business
blocks and lumber and mining interests. The Rogue River,
which narrows to a gorge between this point and Medford,
widens again to the west, and with some tributary valleys makes
cjuite an agricultural area, which is devoted largely to horticul-
ture. The town of Grants Pass gets its name from the fact
that Grant, with his army, camped here in 1852, on his expedi-
tion from the Columbia River to San Francisco overland, by
way of the Willamette and Sacramento valleys.

Curry is the most southwestern county of the state, and
claims the distinction of being in Cape Blanco, the most westerly
point of the United States. The county is very mountainous,
the Rogue River Valley becoming quite narrow, but the river
afifords at its mouth a harbor for coasting schooners. Gold
Beach, the county seat, has a population of eighty-three, and
Port Orford 227, both being on the ocean. Washing the elusive
gold sands of the beach, some interior mining, and dairying oc-
cupy the population principally. A salmon cannery is located
on the Rogue River. The estimated timber here is eight billion
feet. The whole country is within the coal belt, and it is
thought great wealth will be derived from this source.

The southern part of the Cascades sends up a rugged solitary
shaft 6,000 feet above sea level, known as Pilot Rock. It stands
on the line between Oregon and California, and is seen for 150
miles. This is a very prominent feature of the country. Crater
Lake, in Klamath County, is reached from Medford.

BRITISH COLUMBIA.

British Columbia is the most westerly, the largest, and the
only Pacific maritime province of the Dominion of Canada. It
lies immediately north of the states of Washington, Idaho and
Montana, entirely west of the Rocky Mountains in its southern
part, and extends from the 49° to the 60° of north latitude. It
includes \'ancouver Island, Queen Charlotte Islands and many
smaller islands. It has a length of 100 miles, with an average
width of 450 miles, constituting an area of 383,300 square
miles, and it had a population in 1901 of 178,657.

The early history of the entire British Northwest Territory
adjoining the United States is interwoven with that of the
United States Pacific Northwest. That history begins with the
voyage of Captain Cook in 1778, when Nootka Sound, on Van-

BRITISH COLUINIBIA

307

SIWASII ROCK, NEAR THE ENTRANCE TO VANCOU\'ER HARBOR, a. *..

308 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

couver Island, was discovered, which, with the expeditions sent
out by other nations, lias teen mentioned in the early history of
the Oregon Country.

In 179s the territory now included in the province of British
Columlaia became the acknowledged possession of the British
Crown. Sir Alexander JNIcKenzie crossed the continent and
reached the upper valley of the Fraser River and the Pacific
Ocean by way of the Peace and Salmon rivers in 1792, thirteen
years before Lewis and Clark arrived at the mouth of the Co-
lumbia. The Northwestern Fur Co. followed, and after
many mishaps established themselves and in 1821 formed a
union with the Hudson's Bay Co., and had much to do with
the civilization and advancement of the country. A treaty was
made with Russia in 1825 to determine the boundary between
the Russian Alaska coast sealing and fur trading, and the fur
trading of the interior. In 1846 the Ashburton treaty settled
the boundary between the United States and Canada. In 1871
British Columbia became a province of the Dominion of Can-
ada upon the stipulation that railway connection should be es-
tablished with the east. This was accomplished in May, 1887,
when the main line of the Canadian Pacific Railway was opened
for traffic. Victoria was made the capital, it having long held
the commercial supremacy of the country west of the Rocky
Mountains.

The building of the Canadian Pacific Railway was one of
the greatest feats of railway construction on record. It was
built through an entirely uninhabited country, and the difficul-
ties of railway construction at the pass where the railroad
crossed the Rocky Mountains seemed almost insurmountable.
For 500 miles through these moimtains the Selkirks and the
gorge of the Fraser River through the Cascade Mountains
afford perhaps as grand and wild scenery as can be found upon
the American continent.

A road farther to the north has seemed more feasible and
will no doubt be built. It will reach the Pacific Ocean at Port
Simpson, 300 miles north of \'ancouver. The line of this road
from its eastern terminus, Quebec, passes north of Lake Winni-
peg through Athabasca and North Alberta, covering 2,380 miles
in its span of the continent from the Atlantic seaboard to the
Pacific. This road will no doubt eventually reach the Yukon
territory, from whidi connection can be made with the Siberian
railway at Cape Prince of Wales, on liering Strait, by wav of
Nome, thus bringing into reality the long-heralded route from

BRITISH COLUMBIA 309

New York and other eastern cities to St. Petersburg and Paris
by rail.

The Province of British Columbia is governed by a lieuten-
ant-governor, appointed by the governor-general of the Do-
minion, and who is assisted 13_\' an executive council of six
members. The province has a legislature consisting of a sin-
gle chamber of thirty-four members, and it is represented in
the parliament at Ottawa by three senators and six members
of the house of commons. The schools are free and have no
church alliances.

The province is divided into local districts as follows : East
and West Kootenai, Yale, Lillooet, New Westminster, Cariboo
and Cassiar on the, mainland, and Comax, which includes the
northern half of \"ancouver Island and a portion of the main-
land opposite, Alberni, Nanaimo, Cowichan and Escjuimalt on
X'ancouver Island.

The distinctive features of British Columbia are its indented
sea coasts, its islands and its mountains. Almost one-half of
the province is cut ofT from access to the sea by a narrow strip
of United States territory known as the Panhandle of Alaska,
and which stretches from Mount St. Elias to the southernmost
point of Prince of Wales Island. Southern British Columbia is
divided into two great drainage basins, the eastern, or sources
of the Columbia River, and the western, or valley of the Eraser
River, which is the main river of the province. The Rocky
Mountains, which bound southern British Columbia on the
east, have a width of about sixty miles, and an average height
of about 8,000 feet, the highest peaks being Mount Brown
(16,000 feet), Mount Hooker (15,700 feet) and Mount Mur-'
chison (13,500 feet). To the west are three shorter ranges of
mountains, the first being the Purcell Range ; the Selkirk
Mountains constitute the second range, and the Gold Range the
western, which borders on the interior plateau and extends
farther north, expanding into the Cariboo Mountains. The
Selkirks are much the highest of these three mountain ranges.
Mount Sir Donald having an altitude of 10,645 feet. Mount
Macdonald 9,440 feet and IMount Tupper 9,030 feet.

In the numerous valleys enclosed by these mountains is de-
veloped a river system remarkable alike for its complexitv and
its grandeur. In the southern part of the valley, at the western
base of the Rocky Mountains, the Kootenai River flows to the
south, while the Columbia River flows to the north, a narrow
range of mountains only lying between them. The Columbia

310 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

River sweeps around the northern end of the Selkirks and, turn-
ing southward, flows between the Selkirks and the Gold Range,
receiving the Kootenai, which has visited the United States and
returned, a short distance from the frontier, then passes into
the United States on its long journey to the ocean. The Fraser
River at first flows in a northwesterly course and then turns
southward, passing through the Cariboo Mountains, the Lillooet
and Yale districts, when, turning to the west, it reaches the sea
at the Strait of Georgia, near the United States boundar}' line.
The northern portion of British Columbia is a country of rough
plateaus and mountains, watered on the west by the Taku, Sti-
keen and Skeena Rivers, by the Liard tributaries on the north-
west and the streams that drain the northern valleys of the
Cariboo Mountains into the Peace River. The great interior
basin extends from the Rocky Mountains to the Cascades,
which run parallel to and contiguous along the coast, having
turned to the west and become really the Coast Range of
mountains.

That region of British Columbia along the mainland of the
coast enjoys a very mild climate, due to the influences of the
Japan current. The western slopes of the Cascade Mountains
receive the first precipitation of moisture from the prevailing
westerly winds, which give abundant rainfall, and in the more
northerl}' islands, especially the Queen Charlotte group and
the coast region, an excess. Between the Coast Range and
Gold Mountains are arid plains which require irrigation. On
the interior plateaus the winter temperature frequently falls
below zero, but the air being very dry makes the cold endurable,
even in the extreme north. The mean annual temperature at
\'ictoria is 47°, the range being from 22° to 80°, the annual
rainfall being forty-one inches. At Barkersville, in the Cari-
boo district, the mean temperature for January is 12° and for
July 49°, the rainfall for the summer months being seventeen
inches and the snowfall in winter 161 inches. The rainfall in
the interior increases with the distance to the north from the
boundary line.

British Columbia is one of the richest and most resourceful
provinces of the Dominion. It is a highly mineralized, moun-
tainous country, with intervening valleys of arable and pasture
lands, and magnificent forests. The mines are comparatively
undeveloped, yet their product amounts to nearly the production
of all Canada ; the fisheries about one-third the total yield of
the waters of the entire Dominion ; and the forests one-twen-

BRITISH COLUAIBIA

311

itieth of the timber cut in all the provinces. For 1900 the value
of mineral productions was $16,344,751. The largest coal
workings are confined to X'ancouver Island, but at Crow's Nest
Pass, in the Rock}' Mountains, there has been prospected with
drills an area of excellent bituminous coal of 144 square miles,
the aggregate thickness of the veins being 132 feet. Second
to the mines are the fisheries, the value of the product for 1900
being $5,214,000. The canning of salmon and fur sealing being
the leading indvistries, canneries are located along the coast on
the Nass, Skeena, Fraser and smaller rivers. The central seat
of the canning industry is on the Fraser River, where in season

CAPITANO CAN-YON,

thousands of boats are employed in taking the fish, there being
more than fifty canneries located upon the river. The province
de^'otes adequate attention to the preservation of the fisheries
by artificial means.

The forests consist largely of the evergreen, Douglas fir and
cedar, though hemlock and cypress are found in considerable
quantity. The trees reach their densest and largest growth on
the islands and western slopes of the Cascade Mountains, where
they are said to average 20,000 feet to the acre. The estimate
of the timber bearing area is 285,000 square miles, and of the

312 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWESI'

timber now standing one hundred billion feet. In 1900 the
lumber cut of the province was 276,236,470 feet, of which 25,-
000,000 feet went east of the Rocky Mountains by rail and the
remainder went to all parts of the world by ships.

British Columbia has a magnificent ocean frontage of fully
1,000 miles, has many fine harbors, the principal of which is
Burrard Inlet, the western terminus of the Canadian Pacific
Railway.

The Kootenai District extends north and south from the in-
ternational boundary line to the big bend of the Columbia
River. It is divided by the Purcell Range of the Selkirks into
East and West Kootenai. .Almost the entire district is drained
by the Columbia River. There are great regions of mineral
wealth here which in the early days yielded millions of dollars
in placer mining. Besides gold, silver and copper, on the west-
ern side of Crow's Nest Pass of the Rocky Mountains, there are
perhaps the largest undeveloped coal fields in North America.
They are known to cover 144 square miles, and 1,000 coke
ovens are now in operation. The building of the southern line
of the Canadian Pacific Railway has opened up this country
and afforded an outlet long needed. In Eastern Kootenai the
principal town is Cranbrook, on the line of the Crow's Nest
Pass Railway. It has a population of 2,000. It is located on
a prairie in the Kootenai Valley and is the principal lumbering
point of the district. The city is lighted by electricity, has
several large stores, banks, hotels, churches and schools.

In Western Kootenai marvellously rich deposits of ore have
been discovered. ^lany of the mining properties are fully
equipped with machinery, in Trail Creek, Nelson, Kaslo-slocan,
Ainsworth and other districts, smelters having been erected at
the towns of Nelson and Trail. There are good openings for
farmers in these valleys, and a wonderful field for the angler
and hunter. The largest towns of the district are Nelson, sit-
uated on the western arm of Kootenai Lake, with a population
of 6,000, and Rossland, eight miles from the boundary line,
with a population of 7,000. Both are phenomenal mining
towns. The Canadian Pacific main line crosses these districts
amid grand scenery in their northern part.

The Yale District lies to the west of the Kootenais, from
which it is separated by the Gold Range. It lies entirelv within
the dry belt, but within its limits are great stretches of mining,
grazing, agricultural and fruit lands, which afiford good open-
ings. The development of this country is made possible

BRITISH COLUMBIA 313

through the construction of railwaj's in the southern and east-
era part by the Canadian Pacific in its southern hne and the
Great Northern in its route from Spol<ane,- Washington, to
Vancouver, along the international boundary line and the Sam-
ilkameen River. The Boundary district, the Kettle River and
Boundary Creek valleys, and the Okanogan, Nicola and
Thompson valleys, are good sections of about the
same character as the Colville Reservation in the
state of Washington, heretofore described. The Yale Dis-
trict belongs to the bunch grass country, where wheat,
fruit and vegetables are prolific. There are good farming open-
ings and good mines in the district, and besides there is a

ffii^i

^^ m

» '•.r?-.v-?^j

'S^Z

Sir?^-^.«;S

■■"oiL- '?fflH

m\ 'J

mMm

fc,' .:-.■: ..::.;:■■;■■ ■^•-:.-;:

-^^StUK^^BBX^^SS^ffvoffw^ff^Sf^

iiiipipipafe- '

MINING SCENE ON PINE CREEK, .ATLIN,

large mineral field to the north yet unexplored. In the Nicola
Valley there are good farms and a large coal area. Thompson
Valley traverses the northern part of the Yale District, where
there are extensive grazing and agricultural lands. Some irri-
gation is being carried on in this locality, and in the Okanogan
countrv large tracts are being brought under ditches. These
lands are well adapted to fruit and berry growing. A cigar
factory in the Okanogan district is claimed to be manufacturing
native grown tobacco. About 40,000 head of cattle are ranging
near Kamloops, and a greater number in the Samilkameen
Valley.

314 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

The Fraser River traverses the western side of the district
and the Canadian Pacific Railway follows the main water
course. Kamloops is a division headquarters of the railroad
and is the largest town in the district, having a population of
2,000. Ashcroft, on the Canadian Pacific Railway, 204 miles
east of Vancouver, is the starting point for the west Lillooet
district and Cariboo points. Grand Forks is the principal town
in the boundary country, on Kettle River near the boundary
line, and has a population of 1,500; a large smelter is in
operation here. There are several good towns in this and
other valleys.

The Lillooet District lies immediately west of the northern
part of the Yale District. The Fraser River crosses it from
north to south, as does the famous Cariboo road, the trail to
the mines. This district is as yet sparsely settled, the principal
settlements being in the vicinity of the Fraser River. There is
a large area of fine grazing land, which is also suitable for
farming, but irrigation is required. The valleys have a rich
soil, where fruit can be grown successfully. The climate is
fairly mild in the valleys, the cattle maintaining themselves the
entire winter on the ranges.

The Cariboo District lies between Cassiar District on the
west and Athabasca and Alberta on the east. It reaches from
the 52° to 60° latitude, bordering the Yukon territory. The
Rocky Mountains traverse it in about a northwesterly course,
which makes it very mountainous in its west and northern part.
The famed Cariboo mines, from which millions of gold have
been taken, are in this district, and extensive hydraulic mining
is being carried on. This is a great field for the prospector.
The south and western parts of this district are high, rolling
plateaus, mostly wooded. The climate is much like that of
Lillooet. The extreme northern part has the same character as
the Yukon territory. That part of the Cariboo District that is
drained by the Peace River is known as the Omineca District,
where rich gold placers were discovered.

The Cassiar District comprises the western portion of British
Columbia west of the Cariboo District, and extends from the
51° to the 60° north latitude. It adjoins the Alaska Panhan-
dle, circles Skagway and White Pass and adjoins the Yukon
territory on the north. As it lies mostly west of the Cascade
Mountains it is generally heavily timbered and difficult to travel
through. The Cascade Mountains traverse its entire length.
Rich mining districts have been discovered at Cassiar and at

iiKiiibH CUJ-UiVlciA

315

316 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Atlin Lake, near the Yukon line. The navigable Skeena River
rises in the Cassiar Mountains and in a generally southwest
course reaches the sea, a little below Port Simpson. This is
the largest river of the district, and affords the best means of
intercourse with the upper interior. Two placer mining towns
have lately sprung up in the district — Atlin and Pine City.
These are reached by steamers to Skagway, the White Pass &
Yukon Railway, and then steamers on Lake Bennett.

The New Westminster District lies along the boundary line
mainly between the Yale District and the Strait of Georgia. The
Cascade Mountains cross this district from northwest to south-
east and make it therefore very mountainous, with the excep-
•tion of the valley of the Fraser River and the deltas at its
mouth. This valley is quite wide and to the south frequently
overflows, necessitating diking 'in some parts. The rainfall in
this district is ample, the soil rich and the climate mild. The
country is fairly well settled, but farms can be had at reason-
able prices. The Canadian Pacific Railway follows the Fraser
River Valley, and the (ireat Northern connects Vancouver and
New Westminster with Puget Sotmd points. Much attention
is given to salmon canning and fishing in general. Timber is
abundant and lumber manufacturing is carried on extensively.

Vancouver, the largest city of the district and of British
Columbia and the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway,
is situated on Burrard Inlet, a very fine tidewater harbor of
the Strait of Georgia. It is surrounded by a country of rare
beauty, and the mildness of the climate is all that could be
asked for. It is named for the explorer of that name, is located
150 miles from the open ocean, from which it is separated by
Vancouver Island, but it is nevertheless the home port of the
Canadian Pacific Railway Company's line of steamers plying to
all parts of the Orient, the eastern terminus of the Canadian-
Australian Steamship line to Australia, and of the Canadian Pa-
cific Navigation Company's steamers to Alaska. The inner har-
bor has thirty square miles of ship anchorage and 3,000 feet of
docks and wharves have been built for steamship accommoda-
tion. This port is a call station of the Pacific Coast Steamship
Company's line running to Alaska and San Francisco. The city
is well built, many streets being paved with asphalt ; it has
good hotel accommodations and several parks, among which is
Stanley Park, one of the most beautiful parks on the Pacific
Coast. It has several important industries, such as iron works,
sugar refinery, canneries, and large sawmills. Electric cars

BRITISH COLUMBIA

317

DRIVEWAY IN STANLEY PARK, \'ANCOUVER. B. C.

318 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

run on all the principal streets and connection is made with
New Westminster, twelve miles distant. The buildings of this
city, which has a population of 30,000, would do credit to those
of one of much larger size. This is the natural headquarters of
tourists for this region, on account of the beautiful scenery
and the fishing and hunting attractions.

New Westminster is the oldest city of the entire province.
It was founded during the gold excitement of 1858, is situated
on the Fraser River sixteen miles above its mouth in the center
of a rich farming country, and is connected with the Canadian
Pacific by a branch from Westminster Junction, and, as before
stated, ,an electric line from X'ancouver. The city is built on a
side hill overlooking the river and is very imposing. Five
canneries are located within the limits, three large sawmills, an
oatmeal mill, condensed milk factory, sash and door factory,
machine shops, etc. The Provincial Penitentiary, Asylum for
the Insane and other public buildings are located here. The
Fraser River is navigable up to the Yale District. There are
several other important towns in this district, and the Harrison
Hot Springs, near the Canadian Pacific, have become a very
noted health resort.

V.vNCOux'ER Island and Comax. — Vancouver Island is sep-
arated from the mainland by the Strait of Georgia and from
the Cnited States mainly by the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The
island is 300 miles long, with an average breadth of about fifty
miles, and covers the local districts of Alberni, Nanaimo, Cowi-
chan and Esquimalt, the north half of the island being in the
Comax District, which includes a portion of the mainland op-
posite. The two ends of Vancouver Island are comparatively
flat, but the mountains of the interior range from 6,000 to 8,000
feet in height and are covered with fir and cedar timber. The
interior of the island is unsettled, the eastern portion only being
suitable for agriculture. The island, however, is rich in mineral
wealth — gold, copper and coal ; the coal mines at Nanaimo
mine annually 1,000,000 tons.

Esquimalt, a suburb of Victoria, is the principal harbor
and has long been the rendezvous of the Pacific British
squadron. It is connected with Victoria bv an electric car
line. The nucleus of the town is the government buildings,
dry docks, etc.

Victoria is the capital of British Columbia and the chief
city of Vancouver Island, having a population of 20,816. It
was first settled as a trading post and a fort of the Hudson's

BRITISH COLUMBIA

319

Bay Co. It is beautifully situated at the extreme southern
end of Vancouver Island, opposite the Strait of Juan de
Fuca and the entrance to Puget Sound, and faces the mag-
nificent Olympic Mountains of Washington. The large parlia-
ment buildings, which catch the visitor's eye as he enters
the harbor, are very striking and cost more than one million
dollars. The city is quite wealthy, substantially built, and is
very English. The points of interest are the parliament
buildings, naval station. Beacon Hill Park — a tract of 300
acres — the Gorge, the golf links on Oak Bay, the Royal Jubi-
lee Hospital, and Mount Tolmie. This city has large busi-
ness and shipping interests and is one of the outfitting' points
for the Yukon territory. Its commercial interests extend all

LEGISLATIVE BUILDINGS. VICTORIA,

over the world, and one of the largest iron works on the
Pacific Coast is located here. It has many hotels and a large
floating population, since it is the first and last stopping place
of all vessels coming in and going to sea.

Nanaimo is situated on the east coast of the island and has
a population of 5,000. This is the center of the coal mining
interests, where a large number of men find employment in
the mines. It is connected with Mcto-ria by the Esquimalt &
Nanaimo Railway.

A great feature touching the relation of commerce to the
province of British Columbia is that its commercial seats are
nearest to all the important seaports of the world, east and
west. The shortest lines around the world are in the latitude
of southern British Columbia, and the shortest lines from Liv-

320 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

erpool to Hongkong are via Quebec, Winnipeg, Vancouver
and Yokoliama. The commerce of this province, in conse-
quence, must be large. Its exports in 1902 reached over two
million dollars, it having a lumber fleet of eighty vessels, to
say nothing of the fleets carrying the general tonnage in
transit.

There are large areas of free lands in this province,
which can be obtained under the homestead laws by making
allegiance to the British Crown. The settlers upon these lands
have liberal exemptions from debt executions, and many other
advantages not offered in the United States. Land, however,
can be bought and held by an alien without becoming a British
subject. Remarkable changes are occurring in British Colum-
bia and western Canada from the constant invasion of Ameri-
can settlers, which neither political differences nor arbitrary
tariffs are able to resist. This must have the effect of draw-
ing these nations, whose interests are largely identical, still
more closely together.

WESTERN CANADA.

By Western Canada is meant the large agricultural country
lying between the Rocky Mountains and Ontario, and north
of Minnesota, North Dakota and Montana. It covers a dis-
tance of about 800 miles along the boundary and extends
northward in some places almost indefinitely. The political
divisions of this region are the Province of Manitoba and the
territorial districts of Assiniboia, Saskatchewan, Alberta and
Athabaska.

Manitoba has an area of 73,000 square miles. It has ample
rainfall and about the same characteristics as the Red River
\'alley in IMinnesota, of which its southern portion is a part.
This province has in crops this year 2,000,000 acres, and in
1 90 1 it raised more than 30,000,000 bushels of wheat. The
yield is generally large and there is good profit, not only in
this cereal, but also in cattle. Assiniboia has an area of about
99,000 square miles, about that of the state of Minnesota.
Saskatchewan, lying to the north of Assiniboia and Manitoba,
has an area of 106,000 square miles, about that of Michigan
and Ohio combined. Alberta, which lies between the Rocky
Mountains and these two last named districts, has an area of
106,000 square miles. Not including Athabaska, these other
districts have 308,000 square miles, of which it is estimated

WESTERN CANADA

321

about seventy to sevent_v-five per cent is usable. This, of
course, depends upon the character of the country and the
rainfall. The general character of the land is a general vast
rolling prairie of a rich, black soil, with a clay subsoil, which
is particularly adapted to wheat. This subsoil, as in the
States, retains the winter moisture to aid the growing plant
to its maturity whether much rain falls or not during the
ripening process. The climate is cold in winter and hot in
summer ; the spring is short and the fall delightful. The gen-
eral average of rainfall is about seventeen inches ; in northern
.A.lberta, about fourteen inches, and at Regina about eight inches.

PARLIAMENT BUILDINGS, WINNIPEG, MANITOBA

The western part of Assiniboia is perhaps the extreme west-
ern limit of the wheat raising section, without irrigation, along
the line of the Canadian Pacific. The arid region is covered
with bunch grass and makes good stock ranges. The coun-
try is well watered by streams draining mostly into Hudson
Bay. Throughovit the general region wheat is the main crop
and will no doubt long remain so, for the conditions are not
wholly conducive to diversified farming, besides which the
yield of wheat has been so large and it requires so little labor
to handle large tracts, that the farmer is inclined to plant
largely this one crop. Cattle raising in the more arid districts

322

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

ALASKA 323

is very extensive. These lands, wliich could have been
bought in 1900 for $3 per acre, are now bringing from $6 to
$10 per acre in favored localities and are cheap at these prices.
Lands still range from $3.50 to $5 per acre in the Calgary and
North Alberta districts.

The country is very accessible by way of the Canadian Pa-
cific and its branches, the Canadian Northern, the "Soo Line"
and the Great Northern and Northern Pacific, the two latter
roads giving direct communication between the "Twin Cities"
and Winnipeg, where the Canadian lines may be taken for
destinations. The Trans-Canada Railway, now building from
Quebec, on the St. Lawrence, to Port Simpson, on the Pa-
cific, will pass through Saskatchewan and Alberta or Atha-
baska, which will bring within a short haul to its line an im-
mense area of land on a very direct line to the English market.

The general government of Canada is federal, and the
provinces and districts have local legislatures. Regina, pop-
ulation 2,645, is the chief tov^m of Assiniboia and the capital
of the Northwest Territories, also the headquarters of the
mounted police.

ALASKA.

The district of Alaska, the most northerly possession of the
LTnited States, lies between 51° and 71° north latitude and
130° and 175° west longitude. The main portion of Alaska,
however, lies between 60° and 71° 30' north latitude and 141°
and 168° west longitude. The estimate made by the govern-
ment officials gives Alaska an area of 590,884 scjuare miles,
which includes the Aleutian Islands and the narrow strip
south of Mount St. Elias, known as southeastern Alaska, or
the Panhandle. It has a remarkably long coast line on the
Pacific Ocean, Bering Sea and the Arctic Ocean, estimated to
be over 18,000 miles, including the islands. The compact part
of Alaska is about 800 miles in length, east and west, and 1,100
miles north and south, while from Point Barrow, the extreme
northerly point in the Arctic Ocean, to Portland Canal, the
most southerly point, is 1,500 miles. The Alaska Peninsula
and the chain of Aleutian Islands extend 1,500 miles into
the Pacific Ocean. With the accjuisition of the Philippine
Islands and Alaska, the United States has acquired territory
not only in the frigid but in the torrid zone, the territory of

324

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Alaska alone constituting one-fifth of the area of the United
States proper.

History. — In 1728 Vitus Bering, a Danish navigator in the
employ of Russia, discovered the strait now bearing his name,
and in June, 1741, sighted Mount St. Elias. Later some of
the Aleutian Islands were visited, where Bering died. A ves-
sel load of sealskins was taken to Kamschatka on the return
voyage. This induced other Russians to search for seals, and
in 1743-49 four voyages were made to the seal islands, and

PARADISE BAY AND MOUNT EMMA, ALASKA.

ttius the Russian fur trade and interest in Alaska was estab-
lished. In 1762 a trader by the name of Gottoff wintered on
Kadiak Island. At this island the first permanent settlement
was established by Shelikoff and the town named Three Saints.
From this point various trading ports were established, one
on Afognak Island and another at Cape St. Elias.

John Quadra, a Spaniard, visited the vicinitv of Sitka in
1775, and Captain Cook, an Englishman, in 1778 entered the

ALASKA 325

inlet which bears his name. In 1790 Alexander Baranof was
given charge of the Russian settlements by Shelikoff, and in
1799 the Russian American Fur Company was chartered and
given twent}- years' control of the entire country. During
this year Baranof landed on the island now bearing his name
and established Sitka, building a fort which he called Arch-
angel, but in 1802 the natives killed most of the settlers and
destroyed the place. In 1806 the settlement at Yakutat was
also exterminated. In 1824 a treaty between the United
States and Russia fixed the southern boundary at 54° 40',
and the waters of the North Pacific Ocean were opened to
American ships. In the following year a treaty was made be-
tween Great Britain and Russia by which the boundary line
between the then Russian possessions and British possessions
was established as it remains to this date.

In 1867 the United States government, under the auspices
of William H. Seward, then secretary of state, purchased
Alaska from the Russian government, paying therefor, with
all the rights and emoluments thereunto belonging, $7,200,000.
Since that time the Russian treaty has been of much inter-
est, and the important part, or description of the boundary
line, is herewith quoted verbatim :

"Commencing from the soathernmost point of the island called
Prince of Wale.s island, which point lies in a parallel of 54 degrees
40 minutes north latitude, and between the 131st and 133d degrees of
west longitude (meridian of Greenwich), the said line shall ascend
to the north along the channel, called Portland channel, as far as the
point of the continent where it strikes the s5th degree of north latitude ;
from this last mentioned point the line of demarkation shall follow
the summit of the mountains parallel to the coast as far as the
point of intersection of the i4Ht degree of west longitude (of the same
meridian), and finally, from the said point of intersection, the said
meridian line of the 141st degree, in its prolongation, as far as the
frozen ocean.

"With reference to the line of demarkation, it is understood, first,
that the Island called Prince of Wales island shall belong wholly to
Russia.

"Second, that whenever the summit of the mountains, which extend
in a direction parallel to the coast from the 56th degree of north
latitude to the point of intersection to the 141st degree of west longi-
tude, shall prove to be at the distance of more than ten marine
leagues from the ocean, the limit between the British possessions
and the line of coast which is to belong to Russia, as above men-
tioned, shall be formed by a line parallel to the winding of the coast,
and which shall never exceed the distance of ten marine leagues there-
from."

326

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

The mountain ranges near the coast did not prove to be
such as was expected when the treaty was made, hence by
common consent the United States and Canadian governments
adopted the ten-league limit, and until recent years no question
arose. The discovery of gold in the Klondike region gave
additional value to the coast strip, and Canada, desiring to
hold the head of Lynn Canal, the nearest seaport to the gold
regions, as an open port, insisted on interpreting the treaty
of 1824 so that the measurement of the thirty-mile strip would
begin along the outer edge of the fringe of islands. This
was opposed by the United States, and in 1899 a provisional
boundary line along the head of Lynn Canal was agreed upon,
both countries reserving their claims for later settlement.

LOOKING DOWN YUKON RIVER BELOW DAWSON.

As early as 1868 the Yukon River had been traversed by a
party who had built a raft near its head waters and floated
from this point to the sea, a distance of more than 2,000
miles. In later years adventurous prospectors for gold had, in
pairs or small parties, crossed the Chilkoot Pass by trail and
reached the Yukon, taking out some placer gold at Forty Mile
and a few other places, generally being satisfied with their
expenses and a sufficient grub stake for the coming season.
Sitka had been retained as a capital city by the United States,
the appointed governor making it his headquarters, and
Juneau had sprung up as a supply station, with the success of

ALASKA

327

n . '' '

""^"s

1 JSHfe!^'^-'

1 ^:i

;•■ ■ '

\ JHI^^H^' '^'

Wi ' ■

•.if

^ :^^L^

.^^^^

328 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

the now famous Treadwell mine, on Douglas Island. The
steamboats of the Alaska Commercial Co., the successor of
the Russian company, were plying the Yukon, suppl}'ing the
outposts for trading on the upper river with sealers and
whalers in Bering Sea ; codfishing was carried on along the
banks, and lastly salmon canneries were being established.

It was in August, 1896, that George Carmack and his Indian
partners took from the foot of the now famous Birch Tree,
on Bonanza Creek, the first pan of gold from the Klondike.
He staked a claim for himself and for each of his Indian
friends, and at once hastened to Forty Mile for provisions,
from whence the news was spread. The display of his
"poke" of gold dust told the tale, and the Klondike boom was
on. During this and the following months this creek and
Eldorado Creek were staked, and in the spring of 1897 the
richness of the district was known from Circle City to Sixty
Mile, and every man, woman and child who could make the
trip was soon journeying on the ice to the new diggings. The
arrival of the steamer Portland at the Seattle dock in 1897
with the first treasure seemed to set the world on fire, and
during that and the succeeding year the mad rush to Dyea
and Skagway took place. Men toiled over the treacherous
passes and many lives were sacrificed. An eye-witness says :
'T saw on that steep precipice which leads to the Chilkoot
Pass day after day a long line of men, pack laden, slowly
making their way to the top. So thickly crowded was the
trail that one near the bottom would stand for several min-
utes waiting for a place." That rush lasted all through the
winter of 1897-98. The old route led to Sheep Camp, then
tO' Lake Linderman, where timber was whipsawed for boats,
and then, when the ice broke, the boats were launched, dan-
gerous rapids were braved and after many days those of the
adventurers who were lucky enough to escape the dangers
arrived at the mouth of the Klondike, helping to swell the
city of Dawson, then in its infancy. Dawson, in 1897, had a
population of fully 5,000, and in 1898, with the surrounding
country, it had probably 40,000. The overflow spread out in
all directions, many of the people finally reaching Nome.

The building of the White Pass & Yukon Railwav from
Skagway to White Horse, via the White Pass, connecting
with steamers on the Yukon, now makes the trip very enjoy-
able, either winter or summer, the time from Seattle to Daw-

ALASKA

329

son City being only seven days. Of late Dawson has become
very quiet, as the days of the placers are fast passing away.
The amount of gold taken from these remarkable placers to
June 20, 1903, is in value $80,000,000, but is each year grow-
ing less. Now the lower river on the American side is being
opened, discoveries are being made at various points, and a
good wagon road has been built 150 miles into the interior
from Valdez which will ultimately reach the Yukon.

The history of the discovery of gold on Seward Peninsular,
at Council City, Ophir and Anvil Creek, now known as the

NOME, ALASKA.

Nome district, is here given in the words of Captain D. B.
Libby, of San Francisco, the original discoverer :

"In 1866 I was in command of a construction party, sta-
tioned at Port Clarence, Alaska, engaged in building a tele-
graph line called the Western Union Russian Extension,
starting from New Westminster, B. C, and intended to reach
St. Petersburg, Russia, by Bering Strait. My division ex-
tended from Cape Prince of Wales to Norton Bay. Our sta-
tion consisted of four well constructed buildings, and the party

330 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

of forty-one men. We landed in September, 1866, and built
fifteen miles of line to the head of Grantley Harbor that fall
and eight miles more in the spring of 1867, and put the same
in operation. We published monthly a paper we called 'The
Esquimaux' at the settlement we called Libbyville. Myself
and two men, in the fall of 1866, went with dog teams over
the proposed route to Norton Bay. When we reached the
Neukduk River not much snow had fallen and some of the
bars were bare, and I was convinced it was a gold country. I
tried some of the dirt a little farther down and got some
colors. I told the men with me that when we had completed
our construction the next summer we would ' prospect more
thoroughly.

"We had a hard winter, our provisions gave out, and after
that we lived on native food until July, when a company ves-
sel came in and we were informed the whole project had been
abandoned. The laying of the first Atlantic cable was the
cause. Returning to California, I thought not of Alaska until
the Klondike strike was confirmed. In August, 1897, I formed
a party of four men, outfitted for two years, and destined for
Golovin Bay, where we landed September 17. After building
winter quarters, in November we went up the Fish River,
camped at the mouth of what is now called Ophir Creek and
found fairly good prospects. One of the party and myself
went up again with reindeer teams and were gone thirty-seven
days, during which time we found gold in many places. In
March, 1898, we all went up and camped in a deserted Esqui-
maux hut, where Council City stands. We located claims on
Ophir and Melsing creeks and with some others, brought up
from the mission, formed Discovery and Eldorado districts
and named our camp Council City.

"In July, 1898, I sent Mr. Blake with a missionary up the
Nome coast to prospect, which he did on what is now known
as Anvil Creek, finding about forty colors to the pan, so the
missionary said, but no locations were made. There was a
misrepresentation of things, and the missionary and others
returned to Nome and located the whole of Anvil Creek."

Since then great developments have taken place on these
creeks, and the amounts taken out through placer mining alone
and up to 1892 with very ordinary methods have astonished
the world.

Along the coast of southeastern Alaska the land rises from

ALASKA

331

ICE PEAKS ON MUIK GLACIER.

332 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

the water very abruptly to altitudes of thousands of feet. The
chain of islands is separated from the mainland by channels,
and deep, narrow fiords extend far into the mainland, where
they branch out into other and similar bays. From the com-
mencement of American territory, at Dixon entrance to Gla-
cier Bay there is presented to the traveler more natural won-
ders than any region of equal extent in the world. The
entire coast in its gorges shows unmistakable evidence of
glacial action ; in some places the ice has only recently re-
treated, while in other places the glaciers are still at work.
Lynn Canal, which is ninety miles long, is an excellent illus-
tration of these glacial fiords, and Glacier Bay, with Muir
Glacier, an illustration of the ice in action. This latter is one
of the most massive glaciers on the coast, being one mile in
width and from 250 to 300 feet in height. As it projects into
the ocean the warmer water melts the base, and the upper por-
tions, having lost their supports, fall off in the form of bergs,
containing thousands of tons of ice. Between Yakutat Bay
and Prince William Sound are many ice fields, one of the
largest in this region being the Malaspina Glacier, which occu-
pies the foot of Mount St. Elias. This glacier extends over
an area of 1,500 square miles, and is the only glacier of
N^orth America which comes in direct contact with the open
sea. Its remarkable feature is a forest, growing out of the
accumulated dirt and stones which cover the ice field.

North of Cross Sound and southeast of Mount St. Elias is
the important inlet of Yakutat Bay, a deep, funnel-shaped
fiord, that penetrates first far northeastward and then south-
eastward, being a narrow body of water, bordered by lofty
mountains. Between the Copper River and Kenai Peninsula
lies Prince William Sound, the entrance to which is obstructed
by mountainous islands that attain an elevation of 10.000 feet.
Extending into the land about forty miles, the sound has nu-
merous branches, at the heads of which are moving glaciers ;
the most northerly and easterly arm is known as Port Valdez,
and at the head of this is located the town of Valdez. This
place was first settled in 1898, and now has a population of
about 500. It is the southern terminus of the government mail
route to Eagle City, on the Yukon. Large deposits of copper
have been discovered near here, and a railroad to the Tanana
River is being considered. There is steamer connection with
Alaskan and Lmited States points. The Copper River is a

ALASKA

333

large stream, remarkable for its delta, above which it is navi-
gable for about thirty miles.

On Kenai Peninsula coal fields have been discovered, and
west of this peninsula lies Cook's Inlet, the largest and long-
est estuary in Alaska. Into this inlet empties the Shushitna
River, through a large moorland delta, after having passed
through several gorges, one of which is 4,000 feet deep. The
scenic grandeur in this region is unsurjjassed in Alaska.
Lying west of the inlet is Lake Iliamna, eighty miles in length

BUSTER, A GENUINE ESQUIMAU.X DL G,

and twenty-four in width, which empties its waters into Bris-
tol Bay. it is joined with Lake Clark, another long and odd
shaped lake, the two together making a distance of about 200
miles. Back of these lakes, and to the north, a fine stretch of
agricultural country exists. Some good copper and gold
fields have been discovered lately, the copper being near tide-
water, and the gold at some distance in the interior. A good
harbor exists at Iliamna, which is free from ice both winter
and summer.

Kadiak Island lies at the mouth of this inlet, and the town

334 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

of Kadiak on its eastern side. Here is the largest outfitting
place in southern Alaska. Ninety miles west, on the same
island, Karluk is situated, where two-thirds of the salmon
pack of Alaskan waters are put up. There is much agricul-
tural land in this vicinity, and cattle graze the year round. The
thermometer never records zero, and the snow lies upon the
ground but a very short time. Two trading stores are lo-
cated here. Unga is located on the island of the same name,
1,200 miles west of Juneau, and is the seat of several trading
posts. Farther west the Unimak Pass, between the peninsula
and Aleutian Islands, affords an entrance to Bering Sea. On
the island Unalaska are located the ports of Unalaska and
Dutch Harbor, 272 miles west of Unga. They are coaling
stations for the steamers en route to St. Michael and Nome,
and supply stations for whalers and sealers. These places
are far out in the Aleutian Islands, this island lying farther
west than Honolulu. The harbor is a magnificent one in
every way, and the hills about it are rich in gold and silver.
In the old Russian town is an old church, and the inhabitants,
apparently an amalgamation of the Japanese, Indians, whites
and Eskimos, speak the Russian language. On these islands
the grass grows very luxuriantly. This island was settled in
1738 and is now the headquarters of the Alaska Commercial
Co. and the North American Commercial Co., in Bering Sea,
which companies have posts at all important points in Alaska,
the latter holding the sealing privilege of the Pribilof Islands.
At this point the great ice floes from the north begin to be
seen. Some volcanic disturbances have taken place in Bering
Sea of late years, one island having sunk from sight and an-
other having been greatly enlarged. All of these islands are
almost always enveloped in fog.

Bering Sea is Cjuite shallow as compared with the Pacific
Ocean. It is closed to navigation from November to June,
inclusive. The first bay above the peninsula is Bristol Bay ;
Nushagok, on this bay, has a cannery and trading post. The
next to the north is Kuskoquim Bay, which receives the Kus-
koquim River, the second largest river in Alaska. This river
rises at the base of Mount McKinley, far in the interior, and
winds through the rugged Tordrillo Mountains, then passes
through a wide gravel plain, 100 miles in width, where it be-
comes very sluggish, then it enters the Kuskoquim Mountains,
a timbered range, then through a depressed country to its

ALAai>^A

335

mouth. At one point it flows within twenty miles of the
Yukon River. It is navigable for 600 miles. At an early day
the Russians established several posts along this river.

Norton Sound is a large sound and is quite shallow ; into
its southern part empties the great Yukon River, the largest
river in Alaska, and, for that matter, one of the largest and
most important rivers of the Paciiic Coast. It is navigable
for large steamers for a distance of 2,000 miles from its mouth,
or to the Lewis and Pelly rivers, which form it, and these
rivers can be ascended by smaller steamboats for several hun-
dred miles farther. The deltas of this river are greater than

GREEK CHURCH, UNALASKA, ALASKA.

those of the Mississippi : it discharges more water and drains
an area of over one million square miles.

Near Fort Yukon the river is less than one mile in width,
but below that point it widens. Near Rampart it is confined
by the mountains to a narrow and deep channel, through
Vv'hich it rushes with great force, and below which it expands
again to a width of many miles.

Three lines of steamers ply the river from its mouth to
Dawson City, receiving their freight and passengers at St.
Michael, which is located 100 miles from the main Yukon and
120 miles from Nome. The town is located on the island of
St. Michaels, which is the headquarters of the United States

336 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

army for Alaska, being the center of a large government
reservation, which includes the mouth of the Yukon. Two
hundred and ten miles southeast of St. Michael, on the Yukon
River, is situated Androfski, the winter quarters of one of
the steamer lines. At Nulato the Koyukuk River empties into
the Yukon. Here is an ancient Russian port, established in
1838, which was burned by the Indians, and re-established in
1842, and is now a prominent trading post. Koyukuk is situ-
ated at the mouth of the Koyukuk River; Bettles, the largest
town and trading port in that mining district, is 665 miles up
the Koyukuk River from the Yukon. This is a very rich camp.
Situated at the mouth of the Tanana River is the port

BURRO P.\CK TRAIN, DYEA POINT.

of Weare, or Fort Gibbons. The Tanana is 700 miles
long and has many tributaries. It drains the country lying
between the Copper River and the Yukon, and will no doubt
be the pathway of a good wagon road very soon, and some
day of a railroad to the southern Alaskan coast. Gold has
been found in the hills, but much of the country has never
been seen b}- a white man. Rampart City is 975 miles from
St. Michael and is the supply station for the Big Minook min-
ing district, twenty-eight miles away. Fort Yukon is situated
just within the Arctic circle. The large commercial companies
have erected buildings, where thev are often forced to land

337

freight temporarily on account of low water on the Yukon
River. Circle City was once the most important town in
northern Alaska. It came near being depopulated at the time
of the Klondike rush, but now is rising again, owing to the
richness of the nearby Birch Creek district. Eagle City is
located 1,475 miles from St. Michael, contains two churches,
two sawmills, United States custom house and district court ;
the Fort Egbert military post is located here and is the ter-
minus of the government trail from Valdez to the Yukon. It
has telegraphic communication with Dawson. Forty Mile is
in Yukon territory, 1,542 miles from St. Michael. This town
is the headquarters for the Canadian mounted police. Fort
Cudahy is the headquarters of one of the large trading com-

RECREATION RANGE, ALASKA.

panics. This is the town which was supposed to be in United
States territory until 1896, when the 141st parallel was located.
It was built by Americans.

Kotzebue Sound is a very large bay north of Cape Prince of
Wales and is a part of the Arctic Ocean. At the head of Good
Hope Bay some very rich mining districts have been opened,
and tin has been found in paying quantities.

The country north of the Yukon River is characterized gen-
erally by bold, rocky hills and broad, marshy plains, a large
portion lying within the Arctic Circle and bearing near the
coast a lofty range of mountains, trending east and west. The
dominant features of the Aleutian division, or that south of

338 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

the Yukon, are precipitous mountains, deep valleys, dense
forests on the mainland and treeless islands along the coast.
Excepting the western coast and the valleys of the Yukon and
tributaries, comparatively little is known of the interior of the
country north of the Yukon. The mountain elevation does
not exceed 6,000 feet.

The Aleutian division is traversed by a broad mountain sys-
tem, a continuation of the coast range, with spurs extending
northward and covering large areas lying between the Yukon
River and the main range to the south. The main range con-
tinues through the peninsula and Aleutian Islands, which are
merely the summits of the submerged mountain system. The
islands contain many volcanoes, some extinct, others dormant
but smoking. Among the latter are Mounts Iliamna, Re-
doubt, Augustine and Pavlof. An island recently tormed is
Bogslof, while Grewingk Island was raised in 1884. The
highest peaks in Alaska are Mount Tilman, 13,300 feet; San-
ford, 13,500 feet; Drum, 13,700 feet; Blackburn, 16,140
feet; Wrangell, 17,500 feet; St. Elias, 18,024 feet; and
McKinley, 20,464 feet ; the latter being the loftiest peak in
North America. All of these are in the Aleutian division,
south of the Yukon, and generally near the coast.

The climate of Alaska varies greatly in the different por-
tions of the district. The temperatures along the coast of
the Pacific Ocean and Bering Sea are nearly ahke, but dififer
widely in the interior. At Sitka the mean annual tempera-
ture is 43", which does not dififer greatly from northern Illi-
nois. The extremes are from — 2° to 90° ; although it does
not become cool, neither does it become very warm. From
Portland Canal to the Aleutian Islands, though not cold, it is
generally damp, foggy and chilly. The amount of rainfall on
the western coast is about 105 inches, which occurs mostly
during the autumn and winter months. At Unalaska only
forty-five da}s of clear and partially clear weather are had in
a year, 271 being either rainy or snow}-. The Japan current
makes the climate comparatively mild.

The Bering Sea coast is entirely different in climate ; the
mean temperature at St. Michael for January is — 2° and for
August 54°, the extreme being from — 55° to 75° In the
interior of Alaska it is relatively warm in the summer and
cold in the winter. At Eagle, where the boundary line crosses
the Yukon, the mercury reaches — 60°, and there are from ten

ALASJS_ft. 339

to twenty-five inches of rainfall, with more sunshine in a
month than on the coast in a year.

As far west as Cook's Inlet the coast is densely timbered
up to the timber line, about 3,000 feet, mostly with a rather
poor quality of spruce, but at the higher altitudes the hem-
lock takes its place. The spruce grows to a very large size
and extends as far north as the Koyukuk River, and westward
to the deltas of the Yukon. There are enormous areas of
pine and fir in the interior of good quality, enough to last the
United States for a period of fifty years after the Oregon
and Puget Sound timber belt is exhausted. There is little
or no timber on the islands.

METHOD OF TRAVELING IN THE YUKON TERRITORY DURING THE WINTER.

The cereals and hardier vegetables have been cultivated
successfully for years at several missions. Berries grow lux-
uriantly, and flowering plants are found in the favored parts.
Alaska cannot be considered strictly an agricultural country,
as the climatic conditions are not the most favorable, but there
are large tracts of land around Cook's Inlet and along the
islands and coast of southeastern Alaska which can be culti-
vated to advantage. There are vast areas of prairie where
cattle can graze and where the grass grows as high as a man's
shoulders. Alaska's resource is essentially mining, and that

340 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

placer mining for gold. The estimated product of that metal
for 1900 was $8,171,000; silver, $94,772,000 (coinage value) ;
and for 1902, $10,000,000, all metals.

The coal formations of Alaska are extensive. Lignite pre-
dominates, but bituminous and semi-anthracite are found to
some extent. The Yukon coal is of inferior quality. The
Cape Lisburne field, 200 miles north of Nome, supplies that
territory. Coal, as hereinbefore stated, has been found on
Kenai Peninsula, where considerable expenditure has been
made in exploration work. Other metals found are silver,
quicksilver, platinum and copper. The copper deposits on
Cook's Inlet and at Valdez appear to be extraordinary. Petro-
leum oil has been found not far from the shores of Cook's
Inlet near Cape Douglas.

The fisheries rank second among the industrial enterprises.
About all the streams southward from Bering Strait to
Dixon's Entrance and the bay inlets, swarm with food fishes,
chiefly cod, salmon, herring and halibut. The fishing banks
cover 50,000 square miles and are much safer than the banks
of Newfoundland. The estimated capital invested in the pack-
ing of salmon is $12,000,000. The salmon are virtually
slaughtered, there being no closed season and no regulations.
Kadiak Island is the center of the canning industry. The
seal fisheries were once very profitable for the government
and those engaged in that industry, but owing to vandalism,
pelagiac sealing and the killing of females, the herd became
very nearly extinct. The matter was settled by arbitration
at Paris, and now both the United States and Great Britain
have naval patrols, which are only partially effective. The
seal product for 1902 on the islands was 22,304 fur seals, at
contract price of $9.62|- per skin.

Between Kotzebue and Norton Sound lies what is known
as Seward's Peninsula, a sort of rough, arrowhead point,
making out to Bering Strait, the extreme point being known
as Cape Prince of Wales. This point is only forty-two miles
from Asiatic territory, and lying between is the island of Dio-
medes. This is the nearest approach of the continents on the
globe, and it is advocated that at no distant date a continuous
line of railway will join New York with the main cities of
Europe by this route. In fact, this matter has been taken up
seriously. The Siberian government has made three sur-
veys to points along the strait, which indicates a desire to

ALASKA 341

meet a road of this character with its trans-Siberian line.
Mount Bendeleben, located in the central portion of Seward
Peninsula, is the loftiest peak in this territor}'. A marked
line of mountains extend from near the Yukon most of the
way to Cape Prince of Wales, with interrupting broken plains.
In the western portion these take the name of Saw Tooth
Mountains, from their sharply serrated outline. A high range
of rocky hills ends in a bold promontory at Cape Nome, from
which the district takes its name. This territory is now pro-
ducing more gold than any other of like size in the United
States. Following the discoveries heretofore mentioned, the
beach diggings were found to be good and extended contin-
uously for thirty miles. Anvil, Glacier, Dexter, Osbourne and

ON THE BEACH AT NOME.

Other creeks were located, then Anvil City, and later Nome
City, were established. This was the scene of a great
stampede during 1898-99. There being no harbor, "surfing,"
or the unloading of vessels by lighters, was necessary. There
were no houses or warehouses upon the naked beach, and the
scene is said to have been bewildering in the mass of goods,
machinery and every article pertaining to mining dumped in
piles and unprotected from the sea waves. Many people lost
their lives, and it was a scene of confusion until the city of
tents became regulated and a large portion of the too numer-
ous population sought the interior. It has now become the
metropolis of the northern coast of Alaska. The fact has
become established that the gold fields are extensive, fabu-

342

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

lously rich and seemingly inexhaustible. This has built up a
city of fine buildings, with a good water system, the water
being brought from mountain streams five miles away. It
has electric lights and telephone service, and a narrow-gauge
railway seven miles in length, known as "The Wild Goose,"
connects it with Anvil Creek. It has general stores, hotels,
restaurants, saloons, three banks, three churches, three news-
papers and schools.

The placer fields, at first supposed to be confined to a small
area about Nome, are now widely spread, gold having been
found from the Klondike region of the upper Yukon to the
Arctic Ocean, including the Porcupine River and its tribu-

CRADLING ON THE BEACH AT NOME.

taries, and westerly to Seward Peninsula, including the Koy-
ukuk region. On Kotzebue Sound are the Keewalik and
Candle Creek regions, and there are other producing creeks
on that sound. Gold has been found at many places west-
ward along the peninsula, and on Norton Sound to the Fish
River. Here the Omylik Galina silver mines have been open
for a number of years and only require transportation to be-
come producers. The Council district to the west is a rich
region, Ophir and other creeks having produced one-third of
the whole Nome output for 1902. On the Neukluk, which
joins the Fish River, many placers are found through its en-

ALASKA

343

tire length and most of its tributaries. The
whole region from Council City to Nome is
more or less developed, the Ruby Creek,
a tributary of the Casa De Paga, being
very rich ground. Rich ground has also
been found near Port Clarence. Millions
have been taken out of Anvil and associate
creeks, and large portions of the creek beds
and the benches have not been worked.
In fact, the latter seem to afford deep min-
ing and are often richer than the creek
beds. An important district is th? Solomon
River ; its formation indicates that the di-
vide between the Casa De Pagn and the
Solomon is the source of the same gold,
and it is now believed to be a part of the
same ancient channel as that above Nome.
The normal annual production of Alaska
placers has been from $6,000,000 to $7,000,-
000 since 1897, including the first year's
large shore production. The output for
1902 v>'as approximately $9,000,000. All
the gold until 1892 was taken out without
hydraulic means. To-day large operations
are going en at Ophir Creek by the I^ane
Syndicate, ako on Snake River, these mines
having produced a very large portion of
the later gold. Of the Alaska product the Nome and neigh-
boring districts produced more than one-half, the remainder'
coming from the Yukon and other regions. The ancient river
beds, the cave specimens, the imbedded skeletons of mam-
moths and saurians, all go to show that Alaska was once in a
tropical climate.

About thirty miles from Nome is located Port Safety, or
Solomon. It is on a high sandbar at the mouth of Port Safety
lagoon, which is about twenty-five miles long. It is shallow,
but schooners and steamers of light draft often seek shelter
here. The Solomon River empties into this lagoon. The Sol-
omon and tributaries have been good gold payers, and lately
rich quartz leads have been discovered and a mill has been
erected. Council City is situated on a high bluff overlook-

344 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

ing the Fish River. There are many prosperous mercantile
estabhshments here and some very good buildings. Light
draft steamers reach it by the Fish River and a railroad con-
nects it with Ophir Creek. There is a probability of its soon
having rail connection with Nome.

There are few good harbors on Bering Sea, Port Clarence
affording the best. On this is located Teller City, which
came into prominence in 1900. The town is about seventy
miles from Nome, is the principal supply station for the Blue
Stone country and has a number of general stores, hotels, etc.
Near here is the reindeer station established by the govern-
ment in 1898. There are now between 6,000 to 7,000 head

JUNEAU, ALASKA.

of these domesticated animals herded about Port Clarence
Bay. The original stock was imported from Siberia.

Point Barrow, the extreme northern point of Alaska, is
merely a United States signal station, to aid the whalers cruis-
ing in the Arctic Ocean.

The Sitka division, in the southeast, is the best known sec-
tion of the Alaska district. On the mainland are rocky moun-
tains, paralleling the coast, but broken at times. These ex-
tend as far as Mount St. Elias. The islands which form the
Alexander Archipelago extend westward for a distance of
100 miles. These islands afford a very beautiful and sheltered
route for the steamers plying between Skagway and southern

ALASKA

345

346 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

ports. Some of the islands are large and have a climate and
soil which give good agricultural results. Along this route
is an ever changing but never ending scene of grandeur, com-
prising green mountains, with snow-capped tops, beautiful
fiords and romantic Indian villages.

Wrangel is located on Wrangel Island, 730 miles north
of Seattle. This is one of the largest fur trading posts in
southeastern Alaska, handling in one season 400 bearskins, 300
beaver, 200 land otter, 500 marten and 5,000 mink, besides
other skins. The chief industry is the canning and salting of
fish, there being eleven salmon canneries in the district. This
town is the center for several tribes of Indians, who repre-
sent their different families by totem poles, or carved ani-
mals, birds and fishes erected upon poles in the town and at
their burial places, which are of much interest to the traveling
public. There is considerable life in this town, which has two

VIEW OF SKAGWAY FROM STEAMER CITY OF KINGSTON.

sawmills in addition to other industries. Wrangel is on the
line of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company's summer Alaska
excursions.

Sitka is situated on Baronof Island, 178 miles southwest of
Juneau, and is the capital of Alaska. There is an old Greek
church located here, three other churches, two sawmills, va-
rious other industries, one newspaper, and it is the seat of
the governor of the District of Alaska. The population is
about 1,500, and the town is reached by the different steam-
ship lines.

Juneau is situated on Gastineau Channel, opposite Douglas
Island, 900 miles from Seattle. It is very picturesquely seated
at the foot of a high and precipitous mountain. It has elec-
tric lights, water works, two banks and various indus-
tries. It was formerly the supply station for all the upper
country. The famous Treadwell mine is located on Douglas

ALASKA

347

STEAMER PASSING THROUGH FIVE FINGER RAPIDS.

SKAGWAY, ALASKA.

348 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Island, and is perhaps, with one exception, the greatest gold
mine in the United States.

Skagway is located at the head of Lynn Canal, 1,000 miles
north of Seattle. It is the southern terminus of the White
Pass & Yukon Railway, which runs daily trains to White
Horse and intermediate points, connecting with Yukon River
steamers in the summer and stages in the winter for Dawson
City. Skagway has good schools, five churches, two banks,
eight large hotels, wholesale houses, four newspapers, tele-
phone service, etc.

Glacier Bay lies between Lynn Canal and the ocean and is
the site of the great Muir Glacier, the most frequently visited
of any of the Alaskan glaciers, since the excursion steamers
make this point a part of their route, proceeding far into the
bay among the ice floes, which makes the trip very inter-
esting.

Game, along the south shores and far into the interior, such
as the moose, deer, bear and all the smaller fur-bearing ani-
mals, abounds, but north of the Yukon River game is very
scarce. Waterfowl is abundant everywhere during the sum-
mer or nesting season, and the pheasant and ptarmigan are
found in the extreme north and west at all times of the year.

NORTH DAKOTA 349

RED RIVER VALLEY OF THE NORTH.

One of nature's most generous gifts to man is that part of
our country known as the Red River Valley of the North, and
nowhere in this broad, fertile, agricultural area can any lands
be found that will grow and mature crops indigenous to this
latitude equal to the country between the Great Northern
Railway and the Red River in Pembina County, North Dakota.
The lands are gently rolling, with a natural drainage to the
, east, which, with little or no assistance, carries all surface water
away, leaving a beautiful prairie which, when under cultiva-
tion, produces the No. i hard wheat known the world over
for its superior qualities as breadstuff, and will make from
fifteen to twenty-five more loaves per barrel than bread made
from other flour, and sells in the markets of the world for
from 40 to 60 cents per barrel more money than flour made
from any other grain. The Northern Pacific Railway trav-
erses these lands in eastern Pembina County, and the towns
along its lines are without exception thrifty and prosperous.
The town making greatest improvement and destined to be
the greatest commercial point in that part of the country is
the beautifully located little city of Joliette. This town has
been pushed rapidly to the front by that energetic, reliable
concern, having large monied and land interests at this
point, with general office at St. Paul, Minn. We refer to
Warner & Andrus, whose operations in the Red River Valley
have brought to the attention of the people of the East and
South the great opportunity of this section during the past
five years, and have caused hundreds of good farmers to
invest, settle upon, and open up this part of our country,
which, in a very few years, will be worth many times the
prices of to-day.

350 RED RIVER VALLEY

FARM LANDS IN THE RED RIVER VALLEY.

There never was a more advantageous opportunity for
purchasing farm lands than at the present time, and espe-
cially is this true of that country lying in the Red River
Valley of the North and the adjacent counties in North
Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin.

The Valley is from thirty to seventy miles wide and more
than 300 miles long. The soil is very fertile, consisting of a
rich, black loam, from a foot and a half to three feet deep, and
is free from stones. Water is obtained in abundance at from
ten to forty feet. The lands in the Valley will grow crops
equal to those of any other part of the Northwest. A No. i
hard wheat is produced here, which has a world-wide repu-
tation as a bread-maker, and has given to this locality the
significant title of " the bread basket of the world." All the
towns in these counties are progressive and the surrounding
farmers prosperous.

For a number of years wheat has been the principal crop
of the Valley, but this has lately been supplemented with
diversified farming, stock-raising and dairying, all of which
have been successfully practiced, and the cultivation of corn
is steadily increasing. Potatoes, oats, barley, flax, and onions
also thrive, and the sheep-raising industry is acquiring a
strong hold. Farming is easy in the Red River Valley on
account of the level nature of the ground, and for the small
farmer this is an ideal region. The climate is very healthy.

Choice farm lands in the Valley and adjacent counties
may be obtained at low prices from the well-known firm of
the Burchard-Hulburt Investment Co., 705 Manhattan Build-
ing, St. Paul, Minn. They own the lands under their con-
trol, so that agents' commissions may thus be saved by
purchasing direct from the owners. The lands for sale by
this firm are located in Marshall, Kittson, and Aitkin coun-
ties, Minnesota; Grand Forks, Walsh, La Moure, Logan, and
Mercer counties. North Dakota; Washburn County, Wiscon-
sin; in Southern Minnesota; and in Manitoba, near Winnipeg.
Maps and special information in regard to these lands will
be cheerfully furnished upon application.

ADDENDA.

The National Irrigation Law.

Appended is the full text of the national irrigation law, approved by
President Roosevelt, June 17, 1902. We publish the law, owing to
its great importance and the widespread interest manifested in it.
An Act Appropriating the receipts from the sale and disposal of pub-
lic lands in certain States and Territories to the construction of
irrigation works for the reclamation of arid lands.

AMPLE MEANS ARE PROVIDED

Be it enacted by the Senate and the House of Representatives of
the United States of America in Congress assembled :

That all moneys received from the sale and disposal of public lands
in Arizona, California, Colorado, Idaho, Kansas, Montana, Nebraska,
Nevada, New Mexico, North Dakota, Oklahoma, Oregon, South
Dakota, Utah, Washington, and Wyoming, beginning with the fiscal
year ending June thirtieth, nineteen hundred and one, including the
surplus of fees and commissions in excess of allowances to registers
and receivers, and excepting the five per centum of the proceeds of
the sales of public lands in the above States set aside by law for educa-
tional and other purposes, shall be, and the same are hereby, reserved,
set aside, and appropriated as a special fund in the Treasury to be
known as the "reclamation fund," ro be used in the examination and
survey for and the construction and maintenance of irrigation works
for the storage, diversion, and development of waters for the reclama-
tion of arid and semi-arid lands in the said States and Territories, and
for the payment of all other expenditures provided for in this Act :

Provided. That in case the receipts from the sale and disposal of
public lands other than those realized from the sale and disposal of
lands referred to in this section are insufficient to meet the require-
ments for the support of agricultural colleges in the several States and
Territories, under the Act of August thirtieth, eighteen hundred and
ninety, entitled "An Act to apply a portion of the proceeds of the
public lands to the more complete endowment and support of the
colleges for the benefit of agriculture and the mechanic arts, established
under the provisions of an Act of Congress approved July second,
eighteen hundred and sixty-two,'' the deficiency, if any, in the sum
necessary for the support of the said colleges shall be provided for
from any moneys in the Treasury not otherwise appropriated.

EXTENSIVE SURVEYS SHALL BE MADE

Section 2. That the Secretary of the Interior is hereby authorized
and directed to make examinations and surveys for, and to locate and

351

352 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

construct, as herein provided, irrigation works for the storage, diver-
sion, and development of waters, including artesian wells, and to report
to Congress at the beginning of each regular session as to the results
of such examinations and surveys, giving estimates of cost of all
contemplated works, the quantity and location of the lands which can
be irrigated therefrom, and all facts relative to the practicability of
each irrigation project; also the cost of works in process of construct-
ion as well as of those which have been completed.

LANDS MAY BE RESERVED FOR IRRIGATION WORKS

Section 3. That the Secretary of the Interior shall, before giving
the public notice provided for in section four of this Act, withdraw
from public entry the lands required for any irrigation works con-
templated under the provisions of this Act, and shall restore to public
entry any of the lands so withdrawn when, in his judgment, such
lands are not required for the purposes of this Act ; and the Secre-
tary of the Interior is hereby authorized, at or immediately prior to
the time of beginning the surveys for any contemplated irrigation
works, to withdraw from entry, except under the homestead laws,
any public lands believed to be susceptible of irrigation from said
works :

Provided, That all lands entered and entries made under the
homestead laws within areas so withdrawn during such withdrawal
shall be subject to all the provisions, limitations, charges, terms, and
conditions of this Act ; that said surveys shall be prosecuted diligently
to completion, and upon the completion thereof, and of the necessary
maps, plans, and estimates of cost, the Secretary of the Interior shall
determine whether or not said project is practicable and advisable,
and if determined to be impracticable or unadvisable he shall there-
upon restore said lands to entry ; that public lands which it is pro-
posed to irrigate by means of any contemplated works shall be sub-
ject to entry only under the provisions of the homestead laws in tracts
of not less than forty nor more than one hundred and sixty acres,
and shall be subject to the limitations, charges, terms, and conditions
herein provided :

Provided, That the commutation provisions of the homestead laws
shall not apply to entries made under this Act.

IRRIGATION CONTRACTS ARE AUTHORIZED

Section 4. That upon the determination by the Secretary of the
Interior that any irrigation project is practicable, he may cause to be
let contracts for the construction of the same in such portions or
sections as it may be practicable to construct and cotnplete as parts
of the whole project, providing the necessary funds for such portions
or sections are available in the reclamation fund, and thereupon he
shall give public notice of the lands irrigable under such project, and
limit of area per entry, which limit shall represent the acreage which,
in the opinion of the Secretary, may be reasonably required for the
support of a family upon the lands in question; also of the charges
which shall be made per acre upon the said entries, and upon lands
in private ownership which may be irrigated by the waters of the
said irrigation project, and the number of annual installments, not
exceeding ten, in which such charges shall be paid and the time when

NATIONAL IRRIGATION LAW 353

such payments shall commence. The said charges shall be determined
with a view of returning to the reclamation fund the estimated cost
of construction of the project, and shall be apportioned equitably:

Provided, That in all construction work eight hours shall con-
stitute a day's work, and no Mongolian labor shall be employed
thereon.

TERMS UPON WHICH LANDS WILL BE SOLD
Section 5. That the entryman upon lands to be irrigated by such
works shall, in addition to compliance with the homestead laws^ re-
claim at least one-half of the total irrigable area of his entry for
agricultural purposes, and before receiving patent for the lands
covered by his entry shall pay to the Government the charges appor-
tioned against such tract, as provided in section four. No right to
the use of water for land in private ownership shall be sold for a
tract exceeding one hundred and sixty acres to any one landowner,
and no such sale shall be made to any landowner unless he be an
actual bona fide resident on such land, or occupant thereof residing
in the neighborhood of said land, and no such right shall permanently
attach until all payments therefor are made. The annual installments
shall be paid to the receiver of the local land office of the district in
which the land is situated, and a failure to make any two payments
when due shall render the entry subject to cancellation, with the for-
feiture of all rights under this Act, as well as of any moneys already
paid thereon. „ All moneys received from the above sources shall be
paid into the reclamation fund. Registers and receivers shall be
allowed the usual commissions on all moneys paid for lands entered
under this Act.

RESERVOIRS AND IRRIGATION WORKS

Section 6. That the Secretary of the Interior is hereby authorized
and directed to use the reclamation fund for the operation and mam-
tenance of all reservoirs and irrigation works constructed under the
provisions of this Act :

Provided, That when the payments required by this Act are made
for the major portion of the lands irrigated from the waters of any
of the works herein provided for, then the management and operation
of such irrigation works shall pass to the owners of the lands
irrigated thereby, to be maintained at their expense under such form
of organization and under such rules and regulations as may be
acceptable to the Secretary of the Interior :

Provided, That the title to and the management and operation of
the reservoirs and the works necessary for their protection and opera-
tion shall remain in the Government until otherwise provided by
Congress.

NEEDFUL PROPERTY MAY BE ACgUIRED

Section 7- That where in carrying out the provisions of this Act
it becomes necessary to acquire any rights or property, the Secretary
of the Interior is hereby authorized to acquire the same for the
United States by purchase or by condemnation under judicial process,
and to pay from the reclamation fund the sums which may be needed
for that purpose, and it shall be the duty of the Attorney-General
of the United States upon every application of the Secretary of the
Interior, under this Act, to cause proceedings to be commenced for

354 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

condemnation within thirty days from the receipt of the application
at the Department of Justice.

STATE INTERESTS SHALL BE RESPECTED

Section 8. That nothing in this Act shall be construed as affecting
or intending to affect or to in any way interfere with the laws of
any State or Territory relating to the control, appropriation, use, or
distribution of water used in irrigation, or any vested right acquired
thereunder, and the Secretary of the Interior, in carrying out the
provisions of this Act, shall proceed in conformity with such laws,
and" nothing herein shall in any way affect any right of any State
or of the Federal Government or of any landowner, appropriator,
or user of water in, to, or from any interstate stream or the waters
thereof :

Provided, That the right to the use of the water acquired under
the provisions of this Act shall be appurtenant to the land irrigated,
and beneficial use shall be the basis, the measure, and the limit of the
right.

ALL REGIONS SHALL BE TREATED FAIRLY

Section g. That it is hereby declared to be the duty of the Secre-
tary of the Interior in carrying out the provisions of this Act, so far
as the same may be practicable and subject to the existence of feasi-
ble irrigation projects to expend the major portion of the funds aris-
ing from the sale of public lands within each State and Territory
hereinbefore named for the benefit of arid and semi-ar^d lands within
the limits of such State or Territory :

Provided, That the Secretary may temporarily use such portion
of said funds for the benefit of arid or semi-arid lands in any par-
ticular State or Territory hereinbefore named as he may deem advis-
able, but when so used the excess shall be restored to the fund as soon
as practicable, to the end that ultimately, and in any event, within
each ten-year period after the passage of this Act, the expenditures
for the benefit of the said States and Territories shall be equalized
according to the proportions and subject to the conditions as to prac-
ticability and feasibility aforesaid.

How Lands May Be Had in the Great Northwest.

There are several ways in which the intending settler may obtain
lands :

By locating on public lands in the districts mentioned where irri-
gation is not necessary.

By locating on public lands that require irrigation, but so located
that a water appropriation may be made and water diverted without
incurring too great an investment.

By locating and acquiring title to lands that will be irrigated under
the state arid land commission act.

By leasing or purchasing lands that are embraced in private canal
systems.

By purchasing improved lands carrying water rights.

A homestead may be secured by any person who is the head of a
family, or has arrived at the age of twenty-one years, and is a citizen

HOW LANDS MAY BE HAD 355

of the United States, or has filed his declaration of intention to become
such, and who is not the proprietor of more than i6o acres of land in
any state or territory; he is entitled to one-quarter section (i6o acres),
or less quantity of unappropriated public land, under the homestead
laws. The applicant must make afirdavit that he is entitled to the
privileges of the homestead act, and that the entry is made for his
exclusive use and benefit, and for actual settlement and cultivation,
and must pay the legal fee and that part of the commission required,
as follows: Fee for i6o acres, $io; commission, $4 to $12; fee for
eighty acres, $5 ; commission, $2 to $6. Within six months from
date of the entry the settler must take up his residence upon the
land, and reside thereupon and cultivate the same for five years con-
tinuously. At the expiration of this period, or within two years there-
after, proof of residence and cultivation must be established by four
witnesses. The proof of settlement with the certificate of the register
of the land office is forwarded to the general land office at Wash-
ington, from which patent is issued. Final proof cannot be made
until the expiration of live years. The government recognizes no
sale of a homestead claim. After the expiration of fourteen months
from the date of entry the law allows the homesteader to secure title
to the tract, if so desired, by paying for it in cash and making proof
of settlement, residence and cultivation for that period. The law
allows only one homestead privilege to any one person, but under
act of March 2, 1889, section two provides in certain cases, when the
first home.stead was necessarily abandoned, that a second homestead
may be made.

An unmarried woman, of age, can take the benefit of the home-
stead law. If she marries before she has acquired the title, and con-
tinues her residence on her claim, she can proceed to prove up at
the proper time, the same as if she had remained single, but husband
and wife cannot secure separate tracts by maintaining separate resi-
dences at the same time. All the sons and daughters of a family,
who are of age, are entitled to take up land under the United States
laws.

A soldier who has served in the army or navy during the War of
the Rebellion for over ninety days can obtain 160 acres of any public
lands by filing (himself or by an attorney) a declaratory statement
and within six months thereafter filing his affidavit and application,
commencing settlement and cultivation, and continuing the same for
five years, less the time he served in the army or navy, but such time
in no case to exceed four years. His widow can take advantage of
the above. In case of his death in the army, or discharge therefrom
on account of wounds or disability incurred in the line of duty, the
term of his enlistment is deducted. In case of the death of the sol-
dier, his widow, if unmarried, or in case of her death or marriage,
then his minor orphan children, by a guardian duly appointed and
officially credited at the Department of the Interior, shall be entitled
to all the benefits given to soldiers under the homestead laws.

Under the desert land act, any citizen of the United States, or per-
sons who have declared their intention to become such, and who are also
residents of the state or territory in which the land sought is situated,
may file a declaration under oath with the register and receiver of
the land district in which any desert land is situated, that he intends

356 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

to reclaim a tract of desert land, not exceeding 320 acres, by conduct-
ing water upon the same, within four years. At the time of filing
this declaration a fee of twenty-five cents for each acre of land pro-
posed to be so reclaimed must be paid.

At the time of making the declaration the land taken up under this
act must be particularly described, if surveyed, or, if unsurveyed, must
be described as nearly as possible. The party shall also file a map of
said land, which shall exhibit a plan showing the mode of contem-
plated irrigation, and which plan shall be sufficient to thoroughly
irrigate and reclaim said land and prepare it to raise ordinary agri-
cultural crops, and shall also show the source of the water to be used for
irrigation and reclamation. At any time within four years, upon mak-
ing satisfactory proof to the register and receiver of the reclamation
of said land, and the expenditure thereon for improvements of $1 an
acre each for three years, and proof of the cultivation of one-eighth
of the land, and upon the payment of the additional sum of $1 per
acre, a patent shall be issued. A claimant must also file with the reg-
ister during each of said three years proof by the affidavits of two or
more credible witnesses that he has made such expenditure. He may,
however, prove up earlier whenever he can make the required proof
of reclamation, cultivation and expenditure to the aggregate of $3 per
acre. All lands, exclusive of timber and mineral lands, which will
not, without irrigation, produce some agricultural crop, are deemed
desert lands. Residence on the land is not required.

Under the timber and stone act, any citizen of the United States,
or one who has declared his intention to become such, can acquire
not to exceed 160 acres ; land must be chiefly valuable for timber or
stone, containing no valuable deposits of gold, silver, copper, coal or
cinnabar. Applicant is required to file sworn statement with register
and receiver that he has made no prior application ; to designate the
tract required by legal subdivisions, setting forth its character as above,
and that it is for applicant's own use and benefit. Such application
will be published sixty (60) days when the applicant files further proof
of the character of the land, paying $2.50 an acre therefor. Married
women can purchase in Montana.

The homestead affidavits can be made before the clerk of the district
court at any county seat, or before any United States commissioner in
the state, and the journey to the land office be saved.

The Carey Act.

The commission of the state consists of five members, appointed by
the governor, all residents and citizens of the state. Each member is
under a bond of $5,000, the secretary being bonded for $20,000. The
commission has an engineer, who does all work appertaining to his
position.

In reclaiming arid lands granted by the general government to the
state the commission is limited to an expenditure of $12.50 per acre.
The commission is empowered :

I. To select lands and make surveys of water systems necessary for
such reclamation.

THE CAREY ACT 357

2. To make contracts for the construction of water systems and to
cause the lands to be settled.

3. To issue thirty-year six per cent bonds to meet the cost of rec-
lamation and settlement of the lands, these bonds being a lien on the
land, waler rights, water system and appurtenances of the particular
district for which they are issued.

4. To issue thirty-year six per cent bonds to develop water power
plants and water supply for domestic use, for the redemption of which
bonds a sinking fund is provided. These bonds are a lien on the water
system and appurtenances, and all bonds can be foreclosed as in the
case of mortgages for non-payment of principal and interest on matur-
ity of the bonds.

5. To sell such bonds at par for cash and pay cash for construction,
or to pay bonds in lieu of cash.

IN ADDITION, THE COMMISSION

1. Exercises full and immediate control over all construction and re-
quires suitable indemnity from the contractor in the form of a bond
from some responsible surety company.

2. Retains fifteen per cent of the entire cost of construction of water
systems and settlement of lands until both are fully accomplished.

3. Operates and maintains perpetually the water system, charging
the entire cost of such maintenance and operation equally against all
acreage in the district.

4. Sells all lands and water rights, collects all moneys, and places
them in the state treasury.

In case the interest on the bonds is not paid when due for want of
funds, interest coupons may be registered in the office of the state
treasurer, the registered coupons to draw six per cent interest per
annum.

If, after providing for the redemption of coupons next due, there
is a surplus in the state treasury, the commission may require the state
treasurer to invest such moneys in state, county or school district
bonds, or it may cause such moneys to be placed in trust for the benefit
of the bondholders.

No land reclaimed under the provisions of this act may be sold to
any except actual settlers, nor may the commission sell more than 160
acres to any one settler.

The maintenance rate for the use of water fixed by the commission
" shall not exceed the actual cost of maintaining and operating said
system in an economical manner and the cost of necessary improve-
ments." Thus the settler gets water at actual cost. There is no di-
rect profit to the state, which relies for its profit in the increased num-
ber of citizens and the increased production of wealth.

Inasmuch as the commission may pay bonds instead of cash for con-
struction of water systems and canals, a settler may buy land with
bonds.

The commission has established certain rules for the sales of lands
and the use of water. The rules regarding the sale of land are as fol-
lows :

I. -Application. Any person desiring to settle upon and purchase
lands shall file his application for the same on the form established by
the commission, stating therein the lands desired to be purchased and

358 GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

the proposed method and terms of payment (which shall conform to
the terms hereinafter set forth) and his intention to settle on said
lands within days from the date of the application.

2. Settlement and Payments. Applicants shall settle upon the lands
selected and make the first payment required and deliver the notes for
deferred payments within days from the date of the applica-
tion, whereupon they shall be entitled to a certificate of selection.

3. Deposit. At the time of the application the applicant shall de-
posit with the commission in cash or district bonds at least five per
cent of the total purchase price as earnest money, to be applied on the
first payment when the certificate of selection is issued ; but in case of
failure to m.^ike the first payment when due, said deposit shall be for-
feited.

4. Payment in Bonds. Bonds of the district at par and accrued in-
terest shall at all times be receivable in payment for lands, either for
the whole purchase price or any part thereof or for any deferred pay-
ment of principal or interest.

5. Terms of Sale. The terms of sale shall be one-tenth cash on the
issue of the certificate, with interest at six per cent per annum from
the date of the application, and the balance in nine equal annual pay-
ments bearing six per cent interest per annum, payable semi-annually.

6. Interest Added. To the first cash payment shall be added six per
cent interest on the total purchase price as assessed by the commission,
from the date of the first bond issued for the reclamation of the land
in the district to the date of the application. (First bond issued Jan-
uary I, 1901, on District No. 4, Dearborn Canal.)

7. Purchaser's Option of Larger Payments. The purchaser may pay
the whole, or any part greater than one-tenth, at the time of the issue
of the certificate of selection, either in district bonds at par and ac-
crued interest, or in cash, if desired.

8. Varied Deferred Payments. Deferred payments may be made in
less than nine equal annual payments, provided, however, such pay-
ments shall be in equal annual amounts, the first one due one year
after the date of the application.

9. Payments Before Maturity. Any deferred payment may be made
before its maturity on any interest payment day, providing the last
maturing payment shall be made before a payment maturing earlier
can be made.

ID. Coupon Notes. All deferred payments shall be represented by
coupon notes in the form established by the commission, signed by
the applicant and bearing the date of the application. Such notes and
coupons shall bear interest at ten per cent after their maturity.

II. Varied Payment Days. If desired by the purchaser, the commis-
sion may arrange the date of the first payment to fall at a more con-
venient time to the purchaser than one year from the date of applica-
tion, but in no event at a greater period than one year and three months
from the date of the application, the balance of the deferred payments
to be paid annually after the date of the first payment so fixed — inter-
est payments to be arranged semi-annually to correspond.

T2. Forfeiture on Default. In case of default in any payment of de-
ferred principal or interest on any note at the maturity of either, such
default continuing for six months, the lands and all payments made
prior t-o such default shall be forfeited to the state, but the commission

THE CAREY ACT 359

may, notwithstanding such default, upon good cause shown at any time
before the next recurring annual payment, reinstate the contract and
extend the time of payment of all arrearages, but in no event beyond
the next recurring annual payment.

13. Sale of forfeited Lands. Forfeited lands shall be offered again
for settlement and sale at such prices and on such terms as may from
time to time be established by the commission, provided, however, the
price shall not be less than the balance remaining unpaid on the first
sale of the lands, with interest and costs added.

The rules in regard to the use of water are as follows :

1. Superintendent. The commission shall appoint a district superin-
tendent for each district, to hold office at the pleasure of the commis-
sion, and the commission shall fix his compensation and duties.

2. Duties of Superintendent. The district superintendent, under
the orders of the commission, shall have entire charge of the canal
system and the distribution and use of water, subject to such regula-
tions as may be from time to time established by the commission.

3. Flow and Waste. The flow of water shall be regulated accord-
ing to crop requirements, and waste of water will not be permitted in
any instance.

4. Settler's Rights. Every settler shall be entitled to a sufficient flow
of water, in the proper seasons, to irrigate all crops on his lands; such
flow and use of water to be at all times subject to the rules and regu-
lations of the commission.

5. Expenses. All expenses incurred in the administration, main-
tenance and repair of the canal system shall be charged according to
law, and the commission shall annually assess the amount against
the settlers as provided by law.

6. Laterals and Gates. All laterals and gates must be built ac-
cording to surveys and plans furnished by engineer of the district.
Such laterals and gates shall be paid for by the user, and shall be
the property of and subject to the use of the state.

7. Trespass. No trespass will be permitted upon any canal, lateral,
gate or right of way, or any property of the state in the district.

8. Policy of Home Rule. The Commission shall from time to
time establish such further rules and regulations as it may deem for
the best interests of the district, and hereby declares it to be the
policy of the Commission after the completion and settlement of
any district, to leave the administration and maintenance thereof in
the hands of the settlers, as far as may be practicable and permis-
sible by law.

It will be seen from the foregoing rules and regulations that one
wishing to buy a farm can get one from the northwestern states on
as favorable terms as he can buy anywhere in the country ; and hav-
ing bought it he is surer of being able to make the annual payments
than on any unirrigated farm in the world, because on an irrigated
farm he is sure of his crop, and does not have to figure on losing
twenty-five to fifty per cent of a crop every three or five years.

360

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Government Land Offices.

The operation of the United States land laws is simple, and per-
sons desiring further information in regard to government lands may
apply to or address "Register United States Land Office," at the fol-
lowing places :

Minnesota.

No. Dakota.

Alontana.

Washington.

Oregon,

St. Cloud.
Marshall.
Crookston.
Duluth.

Fargo.

Grand Forks.
Devil's Lake.
Bismarck.

Miles City.

Lewistown.

Bozeman.

Helena.

Missoula.

Kalispell.

Olympia.

Vancouver.

Seattle.

Walla Walla.

Spokane.

North Yakima.

Waterville.

Oregon City.
Roseburg.
La Grande.
Lake View.
The Dalles.
Burns.

Lewiston, Idaho.
Cceur d'Alene, Idaho.

The Department of United States Geological Survey in 1903 de-
cided upon and the Secretary of the Interior approved, of five irri-
gation districts to be developed under the June, 1902, arid reserva-
tion act. These projects are at Sweetwater Dam, Wyo., Gunnison
Tunnel, Colo.. Truckee and Carson Rivers, Nev., Milk River and St.
Mary's Lakes, Mont., and Tonto Creek, Ariz. The estimate of the
cost of these reservoirs and canals is $7,500,000, or an average of
$7.50 per acre, but since about sixty per cent of the area covered will
be worth irrigating the cost per acre of the land actually watered will
be about $12.50 per acre. This is to be paid in ten equal installments
the same as the land coming under the Carey Act.

Much land will be made available to settlement which no doubt
will be taken up very fast as soon as the plans are fully made known.

Commercial Organizations.

For Special Information Regarding Lands and Business Opportunities, Address
the Following Commercial Organizations:

City.
Crookston,
Thief River Falls,

Bottineau,
Devil's Lake,
Dickinson,

Fargo,

Grafton,

Grand Forks,

Jamestown,

Lakota,

Valley City,

Washburn,

County.
Polk.
Redlake.

Bottineau.

Ramsey.

Stark.

Cass.

Walsh.

Grand Forks.

Stutsman.

Nelson.

Barnes.

McLean.

ML\^NESOTA.

Name.
Commercial L^nion,

Commercial Club,

NORTH DAKOTA.
Commercial Club,
Devil's Lake Club,
Library Association and

Commercial Club.
Commercial Club.
Business Men's Club,
No organization.
Business Men's Ass'n,
Board of Trade.
Business Men's Union,
Commercial Club,

Officer.
Martin O'Brien, Sec.
Wm. C. Smiley, Sec.

W. R. Mcintosh, Sec.
J. F. Henry, Sec.

Evan S. Tyler, Sec.
H. L. Haussman, Sec.
Address G. B. Clifford.
E. J. Gleason, Sec.
S. M. Poole, Sec.
A. P. Peakc. Sec.
T. J. Haugebery. See:

COMMERCIAL ORGANIZATIONS

361

MONTANA.

City.
Anaconda,

Bigtimber,

Billings,

Bozeman,

Butte.

Forsythe,

Fort Benton,

Great Falls,

Helena,

Kalispell,

Miles City,

Missoula,

White Sul. Spgs,

Aberdeen,
Ballard,

Chehalis,

Clarkeston,

Colfax,

Davenport,

Ellensburg,

Everett,

Fairhaven,

Goldendale,

Kalama,

Olympia,

Port Angeles,

Port Townsend,

Ritzville,

Seattle,

South Bend,

Spokane,

Tacoma,

Vancouver.

Walla Walla,

Waterville,

Wenatchee,

Whatcom,

N. Yakima,

Boise,

Bonners Ferry,
Idaho Falls,
Lewiston,
Moscow,
Pocatello,
Shoshone,
Weiser,

Albany,

Ashland,

Astoria,

Baker City,

Corvallis,

Dallas,

Eugene,

Grants Pass,

Heppner,

Hillsboro,

Hood River,

Independence,

La Grande,

McMinnville,

County.
Deer Lodge.
Sweet Grass.
Yellowstone.
Gallatin.
Silver Bow,
Rosebud.
Choteau.
Cascade.
Lewis and Clark.
Flathead.
Custer.
Missoula.
Meagher.

Chehalis.

King. ■

Lewis.

Asotin.

Whatcom.

Lincoln.

Kittitas._

Snohomish.

^\'hatcom.

Klickitat.

Cowlitz.

Thurston.

Clallam.

Jefferson.

Adams.

King.

Pacific.

Spokane.

Pierce.

Clark.

Walla Walla.

Douglas.

Chelan.

Whatcom.

Yakima.

Ada.

Kootenai.

Bingham.

Nez Perces.

Latah.

Bannock.

Lincoln.

Washington.

Linn.

Jackson.

"Clatsop.

Baker.

Benton.

Polk.

Lane.

Josephine.

Morrow.

Washington.

Wasco.

Polk.

Union.

Yamhill.

Name.
No organization.

Business Men's Club,
Commercial Club,
The Gallatin Club,
Business Men's Ass'n,
Building & Loan Ass'n,
Board of Trade,
Board of Trade,
Business Men's Ass'n,
Board of Trade,
Miles City Club,
Business Men's Ass'n,
Board of Trade,

WASHINGTON.

Merchants' Ass'n,
Board of Trade,
Citizens' Club,
Business Men's Ass'n.
Chamber of Commerce,
Board of Trade,
Commercial Club,
Chamber of Commerce,
Commercial Club,
Hoard of Trade,
Board of Trade,
Chamber of Commerce,
Commercial Club,
Chamber of Commerce,
No organization.
Chamber of Commerce,
Commercial Club,
Cliamber of Commerce,
Chamber of Commerce,
Commercial Club,
Commercial Club,
Washington T>and Co.,
No organization.
Commercial Club,
Commercial Club,

IDAPIO.

Chamber of Commerce,
Business Men's Ass'n,
Business Men's ^Vs^'n,
Commercial Club,
Commercial Club,
Chamber of Commerce,
No organization.
Commercial Club,

OREGON.

Alco Club,
Board of Trade,
Chamber of Commerce,
Citizen's League,
Citizen's League,
Board of Trade,
Commercial Club,
Board of Trade,
Commercial Club,
Board of Trade,
Plassola Com. Club,
Board of Trade,
Commercial Club,
Board of Trade,

Officer.
Address W. A. Bower.
T. E. Sheridan, Sec.
P. B. Moss.
L. Vanderhook, Sec.
J. T. O'Brien, Sec.
E. F. Mayerhoff, Sec.
D. G. Browne, Sec.
A'incent Fortune, Sec.
C. H. Boynton, Sec.
Jas. Conlon, Pres.
M. G. Peek, Sec.
J. W. Kieth, Pres.
B. W^ Badger, Sec.

P. S. Locke, Pres.
E. B. Cox, Sec.
W. A. Westover, Sec.
E. H. Libby, Sec.
G. H. Lennox, Sec.
A. W. Turner, Pres.
P. A. Getz, Sec.
Walt. Tliornton, Sec.
R. G. Gamwell, Sec.
A. J. Ahala, Sec.
J. P. Atkin, Sec.
Fred Schomber, Sec.
Horace White, Sec.
N. S. Snyder, Sec.
Address Jul. Liemer,
J. B. Meikle. Sec.
M. D. Egbert, Sec.
L. G. Monroe, Sec.
T. S. Whitehouse, Sec.
H. W. Arnold, Sec.
T. A. Paul, Sec.
C. T. Hansen.
Add. Arthur Gunn.
S. B. Irish, Sec.
Fred Chandler, Sec.

W. E. Pierce, Sec.
C. O'Callaghan, Sec.
A. G. Changnon, Sec.
V.W. Hasbrouck, Sec.
H. \\''ither3poon. Sec.
Alex. Hyslop, Sec.
Add. Bert Perrine.
0. M. Harvey, Sec.

Fred Dawson, Sec.
S. M. Calkins, Sec.
C. R. Higgins, Sec.
N. C. Haskell, Sec.

E. E. Wilson, Sec.
T. C. Ilayter, Sec.

F. McAlister, Sec.
Fred Mansch, Sec.
F. Gilliam, Pres.
F. M. Heidel, Sec.
n. McDonald, Sec.
R. E. Gray, Sec.

R. L. Lincoln, Sec.
H. S. Maloncy, Sec.

362

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

City.

Med ford,

Oregon City,

Pendleton,

Portland,

Roseburg,

Salem,

Silverton,

The Dalles,

Vale,

Vancouver,

Victoria,

County.
Jack=;on.
"Clackamas.
Umatilla.
Multnomah.
I^ouglas.
Dallas.
Marion.
Wasco.
Malheur.

Name.
P.oard of Trade,
Board of Trade,
Commercial ;\.ss'n,
Chamber of Commerce,
Tioard of Trade,
G. Salem Com. Club,
I^.oard of Trade.
Com. & Athletic Club,
Commercial Club,

P>RITISI-T COLUMBIA.

New \\''estminster. Tourist Association,
Esquimalt.

Tourist Association,

Officer.
J, W. Lawton, Sec.
T. \V. Loder, Sec.
J. F. Robinson, Sec.
Samuel Council, Sec.
Ray McClellan, Sec.
N. H. Judah, Sec.
P. L. Brown, Sec.
L. E. Crowe, Sec.
John Bos well. Sec.

Fred Buscomb, Pres.
A. B. Frazer, Treas.

For assistance in obtaining some of tJie data and photographs for this book
the author is indebted, among others, to the following:

Mr. J. A. Ferguson, Commissioner of Agriculture, Labor and Industry,
Helena, Mont. ; Mr. Henry B. Reed, Secy. Chamber of Commerce, Portland,
Ore. ; Mr. J. FI. Brady, Pres. American Title and Trust Co., Pocatello, Idaho;
Mr. J. T. O'Brien, Secy. Business Men's Assn., Butte, Mont.; Mr. P. B. Moss,
Pres. The Billings Club, Billings, Mont.; Mr. D. L. Killen, Sumpter, Ore.; Mr.
J. S, \^'Ilitehouse, Secy. Chamber of Commerce, Tacoma, Wash ; Mr. F. E.
Goodall, Pres. Chamber of Commerce, Spokane, Wash. ; Mr. PL Strain, Pres.
Chamber of Commerce, Great Falls, Mont.; Mr. W. PI. Dudley, Secy. Anaconda
Copper Mining Co., Anaconda, Mont. ; Mr. Eugene Carroll, Pres. Butte Busi-
ness Men's Assn., Butte, Mont. ; Capt. D. E. Libby, San Francisco, Cal. ; Mr.
E. G. Crawford, I'res. \'ancouver Commercial Club, Vancouver, Wash. ; Mr.
Arthur Gunn, Wenatchee, Wash. ; Mr. E. A. Macriim, former Secy, of the
Business Men's Assn., Helena, Mont. ; Mr, Albert Perrine, Shoshone, Idaho;

Mayor W. B. George, Billings, Mont,

Chamber of Commerce, Olympia, Wash.

Boise, Idaho ; Mr, Fred Bascomb, Pres

N. Whealdon, Pres. Commercial Club, The Dalles,

The Dalles, Ore. ; Mr. Lee Moorhouse, Pendleton

Mr. Fred Schomber, Secy. Olympia

Mr. D. W. Ross, Idaho State Engineer,

Tourist Assn., Vancouver, B. C. ; Hon.

Ore.; Mr. Benj. A. GifFord,

Ore. ; Mr. Geo. M. Weiser,

Portland, Ore. ; The Portland Oregonian, Portland, Ore. ; Capital News, Boise,
Idaho; Idaho Falls Chamber of Commerce; the Passenger Departments of the
Great Xorthcrn Railway, the Korthern Pacific Railway, the Oregon Railroad &
Navigation Co., and the Oregon Short Line.

INDEX
PAET I

PAGE

AITKEN, Minn 14

Anoka, Minn. ._ -- 15

Arlington, Wash 70

Arlee, Mont. -- 53

Auburn, Wash 64

BEMIDJI, Minn _ 15

Bigtimber, Mont .30

Billings, Mont 30

Bismareli, N. D 21

Bitter Root Valley, Mont _ - - 51

Bozeman, Mont - 45

Bozeman Tunnel, Mont 45

Brainerd, Minn -.16

Buckley, Wash 64

CARBONADO, Wash 04

Carlton, Minn 14

Casselton, N. D - 20

Castle Rock, Wash 79

Centralia, Wash. - 76

Chehalis, Wash. - 78

Cheney, Wash 56

Chestnut, Mont --. --- ---45

Cloquet, Minn. 12

Crocker, Wash. 64

Custer Battlefield - 26

DESMET, Mont 53

Detroit, Minn 18

Dickinson, N. D - 3:3

Di'ummond, Mont 50

Duluth, Minn 12

EAST HELENA, Mont 48

Elk River, Minn - 15

Ellensburg, Wash -- 62

Everett, Wash. .- 69

rARGO,N.D -.19

Flathead Indians 53

Fort Keogh, Mont -.26

Frazee, Minn -.18

GLENDIVE, Mont.- -25

Glenullen, N. D --23

Glyndon, Minn 19

Gallatin Valley, Mont -- -46

Garrison, Mont 49

Goble, Ore - "9

Gold Creek, Mont 50

H AUSER JUNCTION, Idaho 54

Hebron, N. D 33

Helena, Mont 48

Hinckley, Minn 12

Hope, Idaho.- 54

Hot Springs, Wash. 64

Hunt's Junction, Wash 58

IDAHO --- 64

Issaquah, Wash - 70

JAME3T0WN, N. D --- 21

KALAMA, Wash .-- 79

Kelso, Wash - - - - 79

Kennewick. Wash --.fiS

Kent, Wash - 66

Kiona, Wash _ 53

liAKEVIEW, Wash 76

Laurel, Mont .30

Leech Lake Country, Minn 16

Little Falls, Minn 16

Little Missouri, N. D 24

Livingston, Mont. - _ 31

Logan, Mont -- - 46

Lombard, Mont -- 47

PAGE

MABTON, Wash sk

Mandan, N. D.- - 33

Manhattan, Mont • 45

MarshallJunction, Wash. 66

Medora, N. D 34

Meeker, Wash. 04

Miles City, Mont !35

Minnesota 11-15

Missoula, Mont -,_ 50

Moorhead, Minn.. - 19

Mount Adams, Wash [62

Montana .-- -,25

MountRainier "75

Mount St. Helens, Wash 76

Mullau Tunnel, Mont 49

NEW SALEM, N. D 23

North Dakota 19

North Yakima, Wash 61

OLYMPIA.Wash -- 76

Oregon 79

Orting, Wash 64

PASCO, Wash 57

Perhain, Minn .- 18

Pine City, Jliiin 13

Portland, Ore 79

Prickley Pear Junction, Mont 4S

Prosser, Wash. 58

Puyallup, Wash. 71

BED RIVER VALLEY 20

Ritzville, Wash 57

Roslyn, Wash . - - fj2

Royulton, Minn 16

Rush City, Minn - 13

ST. CLOUD, Minn 15

St. Ignatius Blission . . . . 53

Sauk Rapids, Minn 15

Seattle, Wash.- 66

Selisb, Mont. 53

Snohomish, Wash 69

Snoqualmie, V\ ash.-- 70

Souta Tacoma, Wash 76

Spokane, Wash .55

Spiague, Wash 57

Springdale, Mont .30

Stampede Tunnel .' 64

Staples, Minn 18

Stillwater, Minn. 11

Sunny side Countiy 61

TACOMA, Wash. 71

Taylors Falls, Minn 11

Tehino, Wash 76

Toppenish, Wash .-. 58

Towusend, Mont 47

VALLEY CITY, N. D .
Verndale, Minn

-- --.-21

.18

TVADENA,Minn. 18

Walllila Junction, Wash... 58

Washington ..- - 56

White Bear, Minn 11

Wibaux, Mont. 25

Wilkeson, Wash 64

Winlock, Wash 79

Winnipeg Junction, Minn 19

Woolley, Wash .70

Wyoming, Minn 11

YAKIMA VALLEY, Wash 68

Yellowstone National Park 33

364

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

PART II

PAGE

ADA CO., Idaho.- 154

Adams Co., Wash. ....304

Addenda 351

Agricultural Products 36

Alaska 323

Albany, Ore. .. 890

Alberta, N. W. Ter 320

Amalgamated Copper Co. 110

Anaconda, Mont. 116

Astoria, Ore. .294

Asotin Co. , Wash. 206

Assiniboia, N. W. Ter 320

BAKER CITY, Ore 264

Baker Co., Ore. 262

Ballard, Wash 226

Bannock Co., Idaho 144

Bear Lake Co., Idaho .148

Beaver Head Co. , Mont 126

Benton Co., Ore. 291

Bigtimber, Mont .122

Billings, Mont. 120

Bingham Co., Idaho 144

Bismarck, N. D 54

Blaine, Wash 215

Blaine Co. , Idaho 150

Boise, Idaho . . 154

Boise Co. , Idaho ... 154

Bozeman, Mont 124

British Columbia 306

Broadwater Co. , Mont 101

Butte, Mont 103

CANYON CO. , Idaho 154

Carbon Co., Mont 120

.Carey Act 356

Cariboo District, B.C.. 314

Ca.ssia Co., Idaho ..148

Cassiar District, B. C. 314

Challis, Idaho 140

Chehalis, Wash. 343

Chehalis Co., Wash 240

Chelan Co., Wash 194

Chinook, Mont 80

Choteau, Mont 81

Choteau Co., Mont. 78

Circle City, Alaska 336

Clackamas Co., Ore. 283

Clallam Co., Wash 246

Clark Co., Wash 246

Clarkston, Wash 306

Clatsop Co., Ore 294

FAOE

Climate.. .... 20

Colfax, Wash 202

Columbia Co., Ore ....394

Columbia Co., Wash 206

Columbia Basin 28

Columbia Plateau 167

Colville, Wash ...185

Colville Reservation 186

Comax, B. C. ...318

Commerce 43

Commercial Organizations 360

Conconnully, Wash. _ .186

Cook's Inlet, Alaska 333

Coos Co., Ore. 313

Corvallis, Ore. 391

Council City, Alaska 343

Cowlitz Co., Wash 345

Crook Co., Ore 874

Curry Co., Ore _ 804

Custer Co., Idaho. 138

Custer Co., Mont. .118

DALLAS, Ore 391

Davenport, Wash. ... 193

Dawson City, Alaska 339

Dawson Co. , Mont. . 84

Deer Lodge Co., Mont. 113

Douglas Co., Ore. .. 300

Douglas Co. , Wash. . . .192

Duluth, Minn 48

EAGLE CITY, Alaska 337

Early History 3

EUensburg, Wash. 206

Elmore Co., Idaho.. 154

Emigration z 39

Esquimau, B. C. 318

Eugene, Ore 390

Everett, Wash 218

FAIRHAVEN, Wash 314

Fargo, JSr. D ... 54

Fergus Co. , Mont 85

Ferry Co. , Wash .185

Fisheries 38

Flathead Co. , Mont. . _ 81

Flathead Valley, Mont. 81

Forsythe, Mont. . . 120

Fort Assinniboine, Mont 80

Fort Benton, Mont. ... 80

Fort Cudahy , Alaska 337

Forty Mile, Alaska 337

INDEX

365

PAGE

Franklin Co. , Wash .... 204

Fremont Co., Idaho . . 140

GALLATIN CO., Mont .124

Gai-fleld Co., Wash . 206

Gilliam Co., Ore 270

Glacier Bay, Alaska .348

Glasgow, Mont. 77

Glendive, Mont 85

Goldendale, Wash 213

Government Land Offices 360

Grand Coulee, Wash. 193

Grand Forks, N. D 54

Granite Co., Mont 97

Grant Co., Ore... ....274

Grants Pass, Ore 305

Great Central Railway 378

Great Falls, Mont 90

HARNEY CO., Ore 276

Havre, Mont. 80

Helena, Mont. 94

Hillsboro, Ore. 293

Hinsdale, Mont 78

Hood River, Ore 274

Hudson's Bay Co 6

Huntington, Ore 264

IDAHO CO., Idaho 156

Idaho Falls, Idaho 146

Idaho ..138

Island Co. , Wash 316

JACKSON CO., Ore 304

Jefferson Co. , Mont 103

Jefferson Co. , Wash. 243

Josephine Co. , Ore - 304

Juneau, Alaska 346

KADIAK ISLAND, Alaska ...333
EaUspell, Mont 84

Kenai Peninsula, Alaska 333

King Co., Wash 319

Kitsap Co., Wash ... 240

Kittitas Co. , Wash 304

Klamath Co., Ore 379

Klamath Falls, Ore 380

Klickitat Co., Wash 310

Klondike, Discovery of 338

Kootenai Co. , Idaho 159

Kootenai District, B. C .313

LAKE CHELAN, Wash ..196

Lake Co., Ore. ..376

Lake View, Ore. 278

Lands 38

LaneCo., Ore 390

Latah Co., Idaho 158

Lemhi Co., Idaho 138

Lewis and Clark Co., Mont. 90

Lewis and Clark Expedi tion 6

Lewis Co., Wash 343

Lewiston, Idaho 159

Lewiston, Mont 87

Lewiston Co., Idaho... ..158

Lillooet District, B. C 314

Lincoln Co., Idaho ... 153

Lincoln Co., Ore 298

Lincoln Co., Wash 193

Linn Co., Ore. 388

Livingston, Mont. 124

Lost River Co., Idaho 150

MADISON CO., Mont i34

Malheur Co., Ore 376

Malta, Mont 78

Manitoba, Can 320

Marion Co., Ore 388

Mason Co., Wash 338

"Mazamas" Club 286

McMinnville, Ore 392

Meagher Co. , Mont 101

Medical Lake, Wash. ... 188

Miles City, Mont ...118

Mines 36

Minneapolis, Minn 47

Minnesota 46

Mission, Wash 196

Missoula, Mont ... 99

Missoula Co. , Mont 97

Montana . . ... 56

Montpelier, Idaho 148

Moran Bros. Co 333

Morrow Co., Ore .. 369

Moscow, Idaho 159

Multnomah Co., Ore. .282

NANAIMO, B. C 319

National Irrigation Law. 351

New Westminster, B.C.. ... 318
New Westminster District, B. C. 316

Nez Perces Co. , Idaho 1 58

Nome City, Alaska 341

Nome District, Alaska 339

North Dakota 50

North Yakima, Wash. 306

OKANOGAN CO., Wa.sh 186

Okanogan Highlands, Wash. ...166
Okanogan Valley, Wash. . . . 188

366

GUIDE TO THE GREAT NORTHWEST

Olympia, Wash 236

Oneida Co., Idaho -148

Oregon 247

Oregon Cit)', Ore. 287

Owyhee Co., Idaho 148

PACIFIC CO., Wash 245

Palouse Country - 198

Paris, Idaho 14

Park Co., Mont 132

Payette Valley, Idaho 154

Pendleton, Ore 268

Pierce Co., Wash 226

Pilot Rocli:... -306

Pocatello, Idaho 146

Polk Co., Ore. -- 291

Port Angeles, Wash,- .243

Portland, Ore. 282

Powell Co., Mont. .-- 96

Prine ville, Ore - - - 275

RAVALLI CO., Mont. 99

Red River Valley 51

Regina, C^anada 323

Roseburg. Ore. 302

Rosebud Co., Mont.-- 118

ST. ANTHONY, Idaho 146

St. Helens, Ore 294

St. Paul, Minn 47

Salem, Ore 288

San Juan Co., Wash 216

Saskatchewan, N. W. Ter. 320

Seattle, Wash. ...- 220

Sherman Co., Ore 270

Shoshone, Idaho 154

Shoshone Co., Idaho 159

Silver Bow Co., Mont. 102

Sitka, Alaska - - . . 346

Skagit Co., Wash 215

Skagway, Alaska - _ .348

Skamania Co., Wash 346

Smelting and Refining Process .112

Snake River Valley 140

Snohomish Co., Wash. .- -317

Spokane, Wash 190

Spokane Co., Wash. 188

Stevens Co., Wash 184

Sumpter, Ore 264

Sweet Grass Co. , Mont. 123

TACOMA, Wash 228

Teton Co., Mont 80

The Dalles, Ore.- 273

Thurston Co. , Wash. - - - . 234

Tillamook, Ore 298

Tillamook Co. , Ore 398

Timber - 34

Toledo, Ore 300

Topography - . 20

UMATILLA CO., Ore 266

Unalaska, Alaska 334

Union Co. , Ore. - 264

VALDEZ, Alaska -332

Vale, Ore... 276

Valley Co., Mont. -- 76

Vancouver, B. C 316

Vancouver, Wash. 247

Vancouver Island, B. C. .318

Virginia City, Mont 134

Victoria, B. C 318

WAHKIAKUM CO., Wash.... 345

Walla Walla, Wash 210

WallaWallaCo., AVash.- 208

Wallowa Co., Ore --.266

Wasco Co., Ore 270

Washington 160

Washington Co., Idaho 156

Washington Co., Ore 393

WatervHIe, Wash 194

Weiser, Idaho 156

Wenatchee, Wash.- --.196

Wenatchee Valley 194

Western Canada 320

Whatcom, Wash. 314

Whatcom Co., Wash 213

Wheeler Co., Ore. 374

Whitman Co>, Wash 198

Willamette Valley 380

Wrangel, Alaska 346

YAKIMA CO., Wash -.304

Yakima Valley - -205

Yale District, B. C 313

Yellowstone Co., Mont. 120

Yellowstone National Park 126

Yamhill Co., Ore. --, 392

VANCOUVER

Q»

The Sunset Doorway of Canada,
Western Terminus of the Great
Canadian Pacific Railway. The
Commercial Capital of British
Columbia. Sixteen years ago a
forest, to-day a city of over 30,000

You can reach there by the Great

Northern, the Northern Pacific and the
Canadian Pacific railroads. By the
Empress and Canadian Australian line
of Royal Mail Steamships. The Pacific

Coast S. S. Co. from San Francisco,

and the Canadian Pacific Navigation

Co.'s steamers.

VANCOUVER

the first and last port of call for all

Alaska ELxcursion Boats

Also the best starting point for the

Golden Klondyke

IF YOU CONTEMPLATE
A TRIP TO THE WEST
DON'T OVERLOOK
BRITISH COLUMBIA

All railroad companies sell
round-trip tickets return-
ing via Vancouver and the
Canadian Pacific Railway,
^■^■■^■^l^^^^^^^B at the same rate as by any
other line. Ask your railroad agent about it.

For further information write the Secretary of the

VANCOUVER TOURIST ASSOCIATION,

VANCOUVER. ■BRITISH COLUMBIA.

Geographically, no city is better situated to become a commercial
metropolis; topographically, it is doubtful whether any other city in
the world has more beautiful surroundings in its immediate neighbor-
hood.

Its harbor is one of the grandest, it and the adjacent waters pre-
senting the broadest scope for the votaries of the rod and gun, and
for boating, yachting, and sea-bathing.

The climate of Vancouver and its neighborhood is milder than
that of Southern England — there is virtually no winter here.

Within ten mile's of the business streets of the city the moun-
taineer can indulge in the exhilarating pastime of mountain-climbing,
rivaling that of Switzerland.

The city itself, with its well-paved streets, its splendid schools,
churches, public and commercial buildings, its palatial homes, nest-

A TREE I^ STANLEY PARK, VANCOUVER, B.C.

ling in a riotous profusion of flowers, evergreens, and ivy, offers
many attractions that are peculiarly its own.

It rejoices in an ideal summer — malaria, black flies, and mosquitos
being unknown. The evenings are always cool and the air pure,
refreshing, and bracing.

Vancouver is the natural headquarters for tourists in British
Columbia, and offers the following additional attractions;

The .salmon-fishing industry of the mighty Fraser, in which an
average of between six and ten million salmon are canned
annuall}', is at our very doors — an industry that has not its
counterpart in either hemisphere.
Stanley Park (one of the largest and most beautiful natural parks
in the world), sea-bathing at English Bay, mountain-climbing,
grand canyons of the Capilano, boating, yachting, shooting,
fishing, hunting of big game, etc.

VANCOUVER, BRITISH COLUMBIA.

VANCOUVEK

BRITISH COLUMBIA

The western gateway of the British Empire. The most
important seaport in Canada. The commercial capital of
British Columbia. The most perfectly landlocked harbor
on the Pacific Coast. The Pacific Coast terminus of the
Canadian Pacific Railway. The Home port of steamship
lines to China and Japan ; to Australia, New Zealand, Hono-
lulu, and Fiji; and to Alaska and the Klondike. The head-
quarters of the salmon packing- industry. The headquarters
of the halibut and deep sea fisheries. The headquarters of
the B. C. coasting trade. The center of the Provincial
lumber and shingle industries. The banking and financial
center of British Columbia. The wholesale and distributing
point for the Province. The chief farm produce market for
the Lower Fraser Valle)^, which farming district is

THE CALIFORNIA OF CANADA

The city which is growing faster than any other in Canada ; it?
population is now 35,000 — sixteen years old — what will it be in another
ten? The only city on the Continent showing the same growth of popu-
lation and commerce where there is no real estate excitement. We now
have the Canadian Pacific Railway; before the year is out we shall have
the Great Northern, and this year also the Yukon & Northern and
Coast-Kootenay railways commence building. This is not one of the
cities " destined to be," but

THE CITY OF THE PRESENT

We make a specialty of dealing in large business blocks returning- s^teady
rentals : in large loans on business property in the center of the city, and in selected
farms, dairy and fruit lands within fifty miles of Vancouver. Brick and stone busi-
ness blocks can be bought to return 6 to 7 per cent, and a gilt-edged mortgage to
return 5 per cent. Both investments are absolutely safe, and the former will show
steadily increased returns as the city grows. Rents are lower than in any other
town of equal size on the Pacific Coast; there is lots of room, for them to grow and
still not be too high.

The folio-wing publications will be sent free — Latest "Board of
Trade Report," "Vancouver Tourist Association" pamphlet, "List of brick and
stone business buildings for sale," giving particulars of rentals, etc. ; "Farm Lands
in British Columbia," published by the

SETTLERS' ASSOCIATION OF B. C.

for which we are the only accredited agents.

HOVEs GRA VELEY & CO.

Our office is in the heart of the city, on the Electric Street Car Line,
opposite the Arcade Entrance on Cambie Street. You cannot miss it.

RED RIVER VALLEY LANDS

200 Farms, wild and improved, in the Red River
Valley of Minnesota; one-third Cash, Balance in
ten years at 4 per cent. These lands are all our
own lands and can be delivered at once with
perfect title. We are Land Owners Not Agents.

John Grove Land & Loan Co.

183 E. Third St., St. Paul, Minn.

BRANCH OFFICES:

Morris, Stevens Co. Ada, Norman Co. Crookston, Polk Co.
Hallock, Kittson Co. Warren, Marshall Co.

I" r> [■ r Land a /a a /n 0

lr\\YY B^il<li^g Material
I I I L L Homes /^ 0 a a

MILLIONS OF ACRES
OF CHOICE, FF.EE
GOVERNMENT LAND

Open for entry under the Homestead Laws or purchasable
outright under the Timber Act at $2.50 per acre.

For particulars correspond or call on

THE N. W. HOMESTEAD LOGATIKG GO.

Cruisers, Examiners, Estimators, and Locators
of Government Land Exclusively

GENERAL OFFICE.: ct PAITI VfTKJXJ

376-382 Robert Street. *^- P^^L, MINN.

Minneapolis Office, Legal Dept.,

120 Temple Court. Duluth, Minn.

Half-fare Excursions three times a Week from our Offices.

S7\ PAUL. MINN.

We are Owners
Not Agents

of the following T AMRO
in the Northwest, iJnl^J^O
all carefully selected

BUY OF OWNERS
and SAVE, MONEY

Red River
Valley

Other
Lands

It costs nothing to write us
for maps and information

30,000 acres in Marshall and Kittson counties,

Minn.
30,000 '■ " Grand Forks County, N.D., near

Larimore. -
1.5,000 " " Walsh County, N. D.
30,000 " " Manitoba, near Winnipeg.

2.5,000 acres in Southern Minn., near Marshall.
20,000 " " Washburn Co., Wis. (cut over).
30,000 '■ " Aitkin County, Minn, (timber).
2.5,000 " " La Moure County, N. D.
1.5,000 " " Logan County, N. D.
20,000 " " Mercer County, N. D.

Burchard-Hulburt Investment Co.

705-708 Manhattan Building, ST. PAIL, MINN.

lNGE,RSOLL

52 E. 6th St.,
ST. PAUL, MINN.

PUBLISHING PHOTOGRAPHER

INDIAN CURIOS

Weapons

Costumes

Ornaments
Utensils
Pottery

Baskets
Moccasins, Etc.

Large StocK, Prices Right,
Genuine Goods

NO CATALOGUE
"WHITE FOR "V^^HAT YOtT ^ITAN-T

KODAKS

SUPPLIES

And Amateur
Finishing : : :

OUR "(VORK AND PRICES ^V^ILL
PROVE SATISFACTORY

MAIL ORDERS RECEIVE OUR
PROMPT ATTENTION

Alaskan and Yellowstone
Park Views

STEREOSCOPIC VIEWS
All the Way Round the World

CATALOGUE FOH THE ASKING

BILLINGS

M O NTA N A

The Metropolis of Eastern Montana.

On the main line of the North-
ern Pacific, and terminus of
the Burlington & Missouri
River Railroad in Montana.

THE GREATEST PRIMARY
WOOL MARKET in the WORLD

Sixty miles from the vast Coal
Fields of Red Lodge, Bear
Creek, Gebo, and Bridger.

Finest Climate, Finest Soil, Finest
Water, and Best Farms in Montana.

BILLINGS, MONTANA.

The largest primary wool market in the
world; shipped 14,000,000 pounds in 1901.

Ships more mutton than any point on the Northern Pacitic.

A great cattle and horse market.

Only one city of a similar size exceeds its postoftice business.

A wide-awake and orderly citizenship.

The best lighted city in the Northwest.

A delightful climate.

High educational facilities. Churches and societies.

Free public hbrary.

Waterworks. Sewerage system.

Electric light and power.

City free mail delivery. Rural free mail delivery.

Fine hotel accommodations.

Graded and shady streets. Beautiful lawns and gardens.

Thoroughly equipped fire department.

Modern opera house.

Free lands for homeseekers.

Openings for manufactories.

Openings for farmers. Openings for investors.

Openings for all kinds of enterprising men.

FOR ANY ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ADDRESS

HENRY WHITE

SECRETARY :: :: :: COMMERCIAL CLUB

I have for sale in the city and surrounding country
everything in the line of real estate that is worth
having, especially lands under irrigation, sheep
ranches, range lands, and suburban city propert}^

References : All banks and leading business houses in

Billings, of which city I am at present serving as mayor.

Correspondence solicited.

W. B. GEORGE,

HELENA, MONT.

I THE RANCH AGENCY |

* f

m Is Headquarters for W

f i

i Montana \

I Ranch Vroperty I

i i

flS The Best Locations and Investments W

^i in all parts of the State a a a a a ^

/(S Our References are Well = Pleased <b

jj Customers in nearly every county. %

I JOHN SHOBILR, JR. |

% Pittsburg Block ^ Helena ^ Montana t

/«> f

HELENA, MONT.

HELENA

M O NTANA

^W|>III|I)W»».II>IH,<VHM"W'«»«.<HI.HI>#^

is the Capital of
the Treasure State

Of this magnificent State, HELENA is the capital city
and occupies an unrivaled situation. It is the natural dis-
tributing center, having ample banking facilities, railways and
lines of travel, and located in about the center of population,
with schools, churches, libraries, and every social advantage
for a city of homes, which it pre-eminently is.

The mining of valuable metals done within a radius of
50 to 75 miles around HELENA exceeds any other district
in the world.

For climate, soil, water for irrigation, mining, cattle, sheep,
and other stock raising and farming, this district offers great
inducements in the way of markets, all products being in
demand at good prices.

For manufactures in the city, and for the large smelting
interests at East Helena, power is generated from dams in
the Missouri River near the city; 12,000 horse power is now
used, and other dams projected which may generate 40,000
to 50,000 horse power.

For Information Address

Sec'y Business Men's Association

Helena, Montana

BUTTE.

MO NT AN A

MONTANA offers unparalleled in-
ducements to capital to engage in
the development of its wonderful
industrial resources.

MONTANA has the richest gold,
silver, copper, lead, iron, and coal
deposits and mines of the Rocky
Mountain Range.

MONTANA produces the most
wealth per capita of any State in
the Union.

And Butte is
Her Metropolis

For Information Address

SECY BUSINESS MEN'S ASS'N
l^ BUTTE. MONTANA

BUTTE, MONT.

% ^

% Write us regarding %

'% Mines, Mineral Lands |

I Montana and Idaho I

i Ranch Property I

I Butte City Real Estate |

I and prime I

Real Estate Loans |

«> Full Information upon request v|

I REYNOLDS & Mcdowell i

flS Insurance, Real Estate, Investments, Mines

I 4tf E. -Broadway. "BUTTE. MONT.

fk Reference, any Butte Bank

NORTH YAKIMA, WASH.

Henry B. Scudder Marshall S. Scudder

H. B. Scudder 6 Co.

24 North Seccuid Street

North YaRima ^ d Washington

FARM LOANS

INSURANCE

REAL ESTATE

Investments made and rents collected for non-resident
owners. Agents for the iSunnpside Lands under
the Washington Irrigation Company Canal.

Irrigated stock, fruit, hop, hay, and vegetable farms of all
sizes with first-class water rights for sale in all parts of the

YAKIMA VALLEY

^he Upper
Snake RWer Valley

IN BINGHAM COUNTY

IDAHO

§Y FAR the most fertile portion of the great Snake River
Valley lies in that subdivision of the " Gem of the
Mountains" known as Bingham County. The fertile
and well improved lands lie in a wide expanse on either side
of the Snake River, which, in all its grandeur, flows through
about the central part of the Valley from end to end.

The water for irrigation in this section of Idaho is taken
principally from this great river and is flowed out upon the
land through great systems of canals, constructed at vast
expense for the sole purpose of irrigation. A great many
truthful and meritorious claims have been made for diff'erent
sections of country in the many States of the Arid West, but
it has never been disputed that the abundance of natural re-
sources by way of agricultural, fruit, and grazing lands and
water for irrigation, power, and other purposes, is equal to
this locality.

As a proof of the vast agricultural resources of this section
of the Valley, the productiveness of the soil, and the unlim-
ited supply of water, capital has sought the field, and under
the name of the Idaho Sugar Company, a beet-sugar factory,
the largest in the United States, is now being constructed at
Idaho Falls. It will have a capacity for handling 240,000
tons of beets per season, which are estimated to require 12,000
acres of land to produce.

IDAHO FALLS, IDAHO.

The Upper Snake RiVer Valley in Bingham County, Idaho.

While this is the only sugar factory at present in the State
of Idaho, and by far the most important manufacturing insti-
tution in the Valley, there are mills and factories of less im-
portance, and a great and profitable field for the investment
of capital in all legitimate lines of business and manufacture
is here in its infancy.

INVESTORS AND HOMESEEKERS

WILL DO WELL TO INVESTIGATE.

THIS PORTION OF IDAHO BEFORE.

INVESTING OR LOCATING ELSEWHERE,.

On either side of the Valley are low ranges of mountains,
extending back for many miles, which afford a vast wealth of
grazing lands, and which may be occupied at all seasons of the
year by herds of live stock of all kinds. Flowing down from
and through these low ranges are many mountain streams
of clear, cold water, which invariably abound with mountain
trout, while along the streams and in the hills feathered and
other game abounds.

Idaho Falls, located in the heart of this Valley, is the prin-
cipal city in Southeastern Idaho, and is destined to be the
largest city in the State in the near future. Among its many
attractions are a $40,000 school house, nine churches of the
leading denominations of the State, with commodius, neat,
and substantial church buildings, many substantial and costly
business blocks, and elegant residences.

The city is located on the east bank of the great Snake
River, on the main line of the Oregon Short Line Railroad,
and is the junction of the St. Anthony branch of the Oregon
Short Line, leading to the Yellowstone National Park.

Beautiful mountain scenery surrounds the city in every
direction at various distances of view, and the climate is one
of the most delightful in the West.

Address A. V. Scott, Secretary, Executive Committee,
Idaho Falls, Idaho, for further information.

cQ)m ((km (fkm mhmukm mm mm ukm ukm ukm ff^dife

^
^

ci^

Pocatello

^ The Railroad Center of Idaho

..^ and Gateway to the Northwest g>,

Public Schools State Academp §%

cS= Pocatello is the most promising young city

'■C^ in arid America to-day. It is situate in the

(<^ south pocket of the great Snake River Valley, ^^

<^ which furnishes the best example of irrigated

i^g® lands on the continent. Here is the junction

f^ point of the main trunks of the Oregon Short

1^ Line, the one connecting Missouri River points

<^ with Portland and the Northwest ; the other,

(^ Denver and Salt Lake with Montana and Brit-

<^ ish Columbia. The main shop plant, costing

1^ $1,250,000 and having a capacity of 1,200 men, is

s^ located here. The surrounding mountains con-

(^ tain ledges of copper and gold ore, formerly a

iC§. part of the Fort Hall reservation but opened to

,^ location and entry in 1902. The agricultural ®^

C^ lands opened at the same time are to be irri-

(<^ gated by canals from the Snake River, the same

S^ being constructed to within a few miles of

(<§ Pocatello and to be brought to the town this

C^ year. The city has two banks, two newspapers,

(^ three hotels, and churches of all denominations ®^''
are established here. =^..

For detailed information, address §^

^<^ CHAMBER OF COMMERCE p"

.fc= Pocatello, Idaho ®5,

CF~ — "^^^

5^ttt?^riK^ Sj^j^/^-^^jc — ' ''"■-i-^— ^

own «incl conlrol

OVER 40O MIU5 OF mR»6ATI0N CANALS

//7 //fc (JfferSn^kc /fiyer Vs/ley ,3nc/ /ijve /ors^/e aver

JOOO //^Fi/SATED FARMS
dll of which hjve perpehjf w-sfer rtphfi in fhesc Csruili

UJahcr I^enla/s

aver^porz from J5 cenhs ^ J*^ /oer^cre

Price o^Land

Trom JO. to 3o . per jicrz ^ccorc/ma ^ /mprovemenh
ihcludm^ Perpcf-uj/ v^ei^er n'o^h for e^ch /drm so/c/-

Vs cssh b.3/^nce ^ sut/- purchasers
/u///nforin,if'on iSru/riiSps nrni's/iec^ofj j^p//cjho/7 ^

J H. BRADY, POCAT£LLO

President /

'OA^O

IDAHO AND WASHINGTON.

*( "if

<(/
\(/

LEWISTON=CLARKSTON

Lewiston, Idaho Clarkston, Washington

m
'(>

I I

I ^'Brilliant Future: Wht; JWotf |

^^ CITUATED in a deep, broad valley at the junction |

jjj '--^ of the Snake and Clearwater rivers, on the only *

if) water-grade route from the Rocky Mountains to the ^

^1 PacificOcean, through the vast, irregular inter-mountain <|

jtV plateau, at the only broadening of the canons for hun- \(>

/)\ dreds of miles, Lewiston-Clarkston is the logical " Key ^|^

25 to the Pacific Northwest," the gateway to the ocean \j>

/ft down the Clearwater, Snake, and Columbia rivers from '$

'& the mountainous plateaus of the interior. ^j

* It IS the necessary distributing center for 25,000 \l>
iflf, square miles of tributary territory — a rich, new wheat ^
'^ country that now yields 8,000,000, and will soon yield >j?
jft 20,000,000 bushels per year; a dozen different gold, cop- flj
/j\ per, silver, iron, and coal mining camps of great promise; ^
f^ a lumbering region as rich as the richest of Michigan's «l>
/(> best days in that industry; fat stock ranges and fertile ^

/»> It shall have an all-the-year open water route to the ^J^

/{J ocean, it being the head of navigation, and now having ^

* rail and water traffic routes radiating in five directions. *

/A -I'

/(\ It shall be the seat of manufacturing on a large y|

* scale; of wheat flour and other cereal products ; of ^
/(> lumber, furniture, house-finish, doors, sash, boxes, etc.; w

* of agricultural implements and machinery ; of woolen §
fl^ goods; of paper and paper goods; of meat products; of «>
/(> boots, shoes, and articles of leather. Why not, with ^
|5 water-electric power and cheap coal, ample raw ma- *
jj terials, cheap and quick transportation, and abundant V
55 markets ? |
<l> ^

* With a population in 1903 of 10,000, it will have <g
<f> 25,000 within five years or less ! Why not ? m

IDAHO AND WASHINGTON.

I ^"''Business Opportunities |

I in the Letaiston Country include : ^ %

* *

* (i) Wheat Growing, where yields run from 30 to 60 vjj
% bushels per acre, with over 2,000,000 acres of finest <»
% grain land. |
§ (2) Lwe Stock, where the increase is rarely less than 40 %

* per cent, and cattle graze all winter. No deep w
% snows; no severe cold. %

* (3) i^'/wzz'«^for copper, gold, silver, iron, and coal, where ^
® the rich prospects offer ample opportunities to new- ^
fly comers. p
(ft (4) Flour Milling for the export Asiatic, Alaskan, and »>
f South American trade. Our wheats are acknowl- j|

* edged the best grown west of the Rocky Mountains. *

* (5) Sazw il/?7/5 to utilize eight billion feet superior white w
% pine timber, and much more of yellow pine, fir, %
® tamarack, and cedar. Lewiston-Clarkston offers ^.
Si the only sites economically available for this \(/
S manufacture. |j
1^ (6) Woolen Mills to utilize 3,000,000 pounds of wool. |^

* Abundant home market with local wholesale <»
% dealers. Electric power. Pure water. <|

flS (7) Flax Fiber Mill. In 1902 about 480,000 bushels of %

f flax grown. Fiber went to waste. *

% (8) Manufacture of agricultural implements and ma- ^

f chinery. i»

fli Paper Mill to utilize straw and wood refuse. rtj

fli (9) Manufacture of all lines of flour, bagging, twines, ^

1$ woolens, paper, furniture, lumber, machinery, but- ^j^

* ter, cheese, brooms, canned fruits, etc. *

* ' «/
§ Simple tiaxa Materials. Cheap Pobler. jin Unequaled W.

* Distribution Point. \\if

I ^ — i

m Address, Secretary Commercial Club, t

* LEWISTON, IDAHO. \t/
I ■'■

* Secretary "Business Men's Association, w

9? *

* CLARKSTON, WASHINGTON. *

(L, ^,,, ,.^.,.,.,.,.,.^^,.,.,.,.,.,.^.^.^.,. ,. ,.,.,.^,.,.,.J>

Cii7eol9 ^oupty, Idal70

1 INCOLN COUNTY, IDAHO, is situated in the southern
part of the State and its resources are agriculture, fruit,
and stock-raising. From the Blue Lakes fruit farm, in
this county, exhibits of apples, pears, peaches, apricots,
and prunes were made at the World's Fair, the Trans-
mississippi Congress, and the Paris Exposition, and
were awarded first prize in each instance.

SHOSHONE is the county seat of Lincoln County and has a pop-
ulation of about 1,500. The town boasts of some of the largest mer-
cantile institutions in the State, and all lines of business are repre-
sented. A new national bank was opened on January 20, 1903, and
has been doing a splendid business. Hotels are first class and the
best of accommodations are offered tourists. Fishing and hunting
can be had in abundance, and sportsmen come here from all points,
even from New York City. The town is located on the banks of
Little Wood River and has ample water supplj'.

The farmers cut three crops of hay annually, and the climate is
unexcelled in any State in the Union.

The great Shoshone Falls are twenty-five miles directly south of
the village of Shoshone and are connected with the railroad by a stage
line, while in the village are numerous conveyances to transport
private parties to this; the rival of Niagara. At Shoshone Falls an
immense electric power plant is being constructed, from which power
is to be transmitted to Shoshone, Hailey, Salt Lake City, and Ogden,
and it will also furnish power for an electric railway from the Falls
to Shoshone.

The second largest irrigation proposition in the world is now being
constructed in this county and in Cassia County adjoining. This
great irrigating canal is diverted from Snake River, twenty-three
miles above Shoshone Falls. It is sixty-nine miles long, eighty feet
wide at the bottom, carries 3,400 cubic feet of water per second, and
places under irrigation 371,000 acres of the finest land in Idaho.

In water power this county rivals anyone section in the world,
its facilities consisting of the great Shoshone Falls, with a Fall of 210
feet; the Twin Falls, three miles above, with a fall of 184 feet; Auger
Falls, with a fall of 136 feet; Banker Falls, with a fall of 50 feet;
Salmon Falls, with a fall of 80 feet, and many lesser falls. This
power is now being harnessed and the near future will place Lincoln
County in the ranks of the great manufacturing counties of the West.

To reach the lands of the Twin Falls Land & Water Co. , leave the
railroad at Shoshone, where conveyances will be found ready to take
parties over this land. For particulars write to

TWIN FALLS LAND & WATER CO.,

IMain Office, 221 Southwest Temple Street, SALT LAKE, UTAH.

COLFAX, WASH.

All Gone

Now!

THE LONE TEPEE.

Are the original inhabitants
of the famous " Palouse
Country " of Eastern Wash-
ington. Most of this coun-
try is in Whitman County,
which lias probably exported
more wheat than any county
in the United States. (Not
less than 9,500,000 bushels
were shipped out, of the igoi
crop, and the 1902 crop was not much less.)

Prof. Mark Harrington, when President of the State University of
Washington, said of the Palouse soil:

" This fine soil is very fertile. It seems to be of a kind which is
perpetually fertile. In the whole world I know of only one locality
which has a similar soil This is the north of China, in the two prov-
inces of Shansi and Shensi, west of Peking. To me the Palouse soil
seems to be the same, from which I am led to believe that it is
inexhaustible.

" We estimated what population the Palouse Country was able to
maintain. Our conclusion was that one hundred times as many
people could be supported by its soil as now live there.

" Another characteristic of the soil in that country is the small fall
of water needed to raise the crops. This, of course, is another ad-
vantage. Then there are no trees or rocks to be removed. Put in
the plow and then plant the seed."

While celebrated for wheat, the Palouse Country has been found
to be well adapted for producing magnificent fruits of all kinds,
vegetables of large size and fine quality, and many of the tame
grasses.

Whitman County has (Nov., 1902) over 280 miles of paying rail-
roads and 80 miles under construction, 15 banks, over 160 school-
houses, a dozen towns of from 300 to 3,000 population, several rural
free delivery mail routes, and hundreds of miles of public and private
telephone lines. The State Agricultural College is located at Pull-
man and has nearly 700 students enrolled.

Colfax is the county seat and chief business point, and is one of
the best business towns of its size m America. People coming West
for new location will find here rich lands at moderate prices, and all
advantages. For further information call on or address,

CHAMBER OF COMIVIERCE,

COLFAX, WASHINGTON.

WASHINGTON.

Bird's-eye View of l^liddle Falls and Manufacturings District, Spokane.

SPOKANE

the Metropolis of
the Inland Empire

The Imperial City — seven times better than
any other city in the Pacific Northwest,
the land of sunshine, flowers, fruit, grain,
gold, silver, lead, copper, marble, timber,
and all that nature can offer in opportu-
nities for the acquirement of wealth. : : :
Where there are no killing frosts to injure
crops, no cyclones, no floods, no destruction
from lightning, and where sunstroke is un-
known except in name.

WASHINGTON.

* * SPOKANE * *

1 SPOKANE, the greatest agricultural center in the United
States — more than 30,000,000 bushels of wheat produced annually
within a radius of 200 miles of SPOKANE, in the celebrated
Palouse and Big Bend farming belts.

2 SPOKANE, the distributing center for all of the Palouse
country, Big Bend country, and the Colville and Kalispell valleys.

3 SPOKANE, the geographical and distributing center of the
famous Coeur d'Alene silver-lead mines of Northern Idaho. The
gold and copper mines of Rossland and the boundary country,
and the Slocan in British Columbia, and of Republic, Washington.
Also of the famous coal fields of the Crow's Nest country, and of
the Okanogan country with its rich agricultural and mineral
resources.

4 SPOKANE, the distributing center for the great, growing
lumbering districts of Eastern Washington and Northern Idaho,
which have the largest white pine forests in the world. The lum-
ber output for 1902 is estimated at $20,000,000.

5 SPOKANE, with a water-power surpassed only b}' Niagara,
will become the greatest manufacturing city of the Pacific North-
west. The maximum power of the Falls is between 200,000 and
300,000 horse-power, of which about 15,000 horse-power is utilized.
SPOKANE offers better returns for the establishment of manufac-
turing industries than can be found anywhere else in the West,
because of its growing population and cheap water-power.

6 SPOKANE, the railroad center of the Pacific Northwest.
Transcontinental trains arrive and depart at SPOKANE over four
lines — the Northern Pacific, Great Northern, Burlington, and
0. R. & N. Co. Branch lines radiate to every part of the INLAND
EMPIRE of which SPOKANE is the hub. Look at the map.

7 SPOKANE, last, but not least, for business opportunities
for business men. To be ready when your opportunity comes is
the secret of success. Then get ready. SPOKANE offers you
that opportunity. For detailed information, address the

SPOKANE CHAIiBER OF COWI^IERCE

I. G. MONROE, Secretary

F. E. COODALL, President

Threshing Scene, Washington, 1,960 Sacks at one setting, \H days' work.

WASHINGTON.

Arthur D. Jones & Co.

(incorpobated)

ESTABLISHED 188 7

Offices in Empire State Building
SPOKANE. 0 WASHINGTON

We are agents for the Empire State, the
Spokane Club, and many other fme blocks,
also much other business and residence
property in Spokane.

We write any kind of insurance ; we loan
money at from 5 to 8 per cent per annum.

We sell improved business property that
will pay 8 to 10 per cent per annum, net.

We sell grazing and raw farm lands in
Eastern Washington at $2.00 to fio.oo
per acre.

We sell improved farms at $10.00 to
I60.00 per acre.

Call at the oldest real estate and land
office in Spokane for the best bargains.

As to our reliability we refer you to any
bank or leading business man in Spokane.

ARTHUR D. JONE.S 6 CO.

907 RIVERSIDE AVENUE

SPOKANE.

^he Metropolis of the
Inland E^mpire ^ ^ ^

GpQJ^ jA ^ J^ being the center of a large
•^^ "^^ country rich in mines and
farming lands, there are many opportunities for
the investor and homeseeker, 000^00
^ Here the investor can secure 7 per cent
interest on his money with absolutely good
security, and there are many opportunities for
the purchase of timber and farming lands. 0

Uo the Homeseeiter

Whatever his interest might have been, whether
in mines, in the forests, as orchardist, stock=
man, or farmer, there are opportunities pre=
sented such as are seldom found. With the trade
With CHINA and the ORIENT in its infancy and in=
creasing rapidly, the markets are safe and steady. 0
0 The railroads projected and built afford
access to market and are constantly opening
up ne^v country for the settler, a 0 0 0 0 0
0 Among those w^ho have been connected w^ith
real estate and investments for a number of
years is the firni of

E.LMENDORF 6 E.LMENDORF

Who w^ill gladly submit for either the investor
or the homeseeker a statement of the lands or
investments of any kind or nature. 0000
0 Those interested will do well to correspond
with them. 0 Any bank in Spokane -will tell you
of their standing. 000 0 000000

ELIVIENDORF & ELMENDORF

Real Estate and Investments
Rookery Building SPOKANE, WASH.

WASHINGTON.

BRUNOT HALL

A Protestant Boarding and Day

SCHOOL FOR GIRLS

Special Advantages in Music,
Art, etc. :: Prepares for any
College. ;: Well Equipped Gym-
nasium for Physical Culture.
Healthful location and delight-
ful surroundings. :: Faculty is
composed of cultured Eastern
ladies from the best colleges.
Write for Illustrated Catalogue.

FOR, FURTHE-R. INFORMATION ADDRESS

JULIA P. BAILE.Y, Principal
2209 Pacific Ave. SPOKANE., WASH.

WASHINGTON.

The Home of the "Big Red Jlpple
THE

TOWN OF WENATCHEE

»ENATCHEE, the county seat of Chelan
County, is situated within one mile of the
exact center of the State of Washington,
close to the junction of the Wenatchee
River with the Cohtmbia. It has more than 2,500
people. Two years ago it had scarcely 500. It has
doubled m size during the past year. Last fall it
shipped 1,000,000 bushels of wheat, which was brought
to this point by the Columbia River steamboats, and
300,000 packages of fruit, aggregating over 300 car-
loads, which was raised in the Wenatchee Valley. There
are now six large river steamboats running up the
Columbia River from this point, and another one is
building.

During the year 1902 ten large brick business build-
ings and over 100 dwellings were erected. Most of the
latter are residences costing more than $1,500. The
Wenatchee Milling Compan)^, which has a loo-barrel-a-
day plant, is building an addition to increase its capacity
to 250 barrels a day.

Wenatchee has a $14,000 brick school building, which
is now crowded to overflowing, and is building another
of equal size. Chelan County has here a $15,000 brick
court house. The town has water works, electric
lights, and a telephone system. Wenatchee is the
principal shipping point on the Great Northern Rail-
way between Spokane and Puget Sound. From the
bank of the river the land rises in a smooth, easy
slope to the foothills two or three miles back. The site

WASHINGTON.

The Wonderful Wenatchee Valley

is sightly, well drained, and attractive. Spokane is
174 miles east and Seattle 164 miles west.

Wenatchee's tributary country includes on the north
the gold and silver mining region of the Okanogan
Valley, now supporting nearly 5,000 people, and des-
tined to become one of the finest sections of the United
States. Then comes the fertile valley of the Okanogan
River, extending from far up in British Columbia to the
Columbia River. Below the Okanogan is the Methow
Valley, fully as fertile, and containing at the present
time the finest unentered government agricultural lands
to be obtained. Along the Methow are also fine gold
and coal mining properties which are being rapidly
developed. Next in order comes Lake Chelan, well
ranked among the finest scenic attractions of the West- —
a silver lake sixty-five miles long, from whose shores
on either side abrupt mountains rise far above the snow
line. At the head of this lake lie rich silver mines,
while at its foot is a fine fruit-growing section, the
whole making the most delightful summer resort.
Along the Entiat River just below are numbers of fine
fruit farms and room for many more. To the east of
the Okanogan and north of the Columbia River lies
the great Colville Indian Reservation, the north half of
which has recently been thrown open to settlement,
containing thousands of acres of fine farm lands and
rich mineral deposits. South and east of the Columbia
River, encircled by its "Big Bend," is the Big Bend
Plateau, the finest of cereal producing sections and
stock ranges.

The townsite and much of the fine fruit land imme-
diately adjoining is owned by the Wenatchee Develop-
ment Co., Arthur Gunn, Manager, Wenatchee, to whom
inquiries for further information may be addressed.

WENATCHEE, IV ASH.

W enatchee, the Home of the "Big Red jipple
THE BEST IRRIGATED FRUIT LANDS ON EARTH

are in the

Wonderful

Wenatchee

Valley

in the exact center of the

EVERGREEN STATE. OF
WASHINGTON

Irrigation is King

A larger net annual revenue per acre can be taken from irri-
gated lands, in fruit culture, near Wenatchee, than from any
other agricultuial or horticultural lands in the United States.
This is demonstrated positively on dozens of fruit ranches at
Wenatchee, and an investigation will convince any person of the
correctness of our statement.

The High Line Canal, recently constructed by the Wenat=
chee Canal Company, will irrigate all of the tillable lands in
the valley, and the Comijany has for sale a limited area of the
choicest of these lands.

For full particulars call on or address

Wenatchee Canal Co.

Wenatchee^ Washington

ALL ROADS LEAD TO I

Walter M, OtiVe

WHO SELLS

Wagons, Farm Implements
Ammunition, Guns, Sporting Goods
Lumber and Building Material of aii kinds
Tinware, Kitchen Furnishings
Every kind of Hardware
Real Estate, Town Lots and Acreage

*t5^

Machinery

Oils, Paints, Varnishes, Glass
Lime. Plaster, and Cement
I nsurance

Vehicles of all kinds
Electrical Supplies

WALTER. M. OLIVE, !•

MISSION, WASH.

WASHINGTON.

T. S. Land, Cattle & Frait Co.

^HAT FARMING responds, with large and certain profits,
to careful, systematic, and intelligent management is
prominently exemplified in the case of an irrigated fruit
and stock ranch situated in the central part of the State
of Washington.

Near the town of Mission, in the Wenatchee Valley,
is the headquarters of the T. S, Land, Cattle & Fruit Company, or,
as it is more usually spoken of locally, the Tibbits-Scaman Company
— M. O. Tibbits, J. A. Seaman, and D. L. Tibbits being the officers
and largest stockholders. It is a stock company, organized under
the laws of the State, and is managed and operated on business
principles, with the same care and attention that characterize a well-
regulated banking, manufacturing, or mercantile establishment.
Here it is intense farming — to make every foot of ground produce
to the utmost with the least outlay — to count the cost, but not to spoil
the product either in quantity or quality by a foolish system of
economy.

The specialties of the T. S. Company are winter apples and fine
blooded cattle, both beef and dairy — and in these are the biggest
profits. Minor details are, however, not neglected. There is a hen-
nery— complete — in which every hen, by a proper system of feeding
and handling, is made to pay a profit o£ twice her value each year; a
dairy — with every modern facility — the cows each paying a net profit
of from $50 up per year, those that do not being sent to the beef
herd; a sawmill and box factory for manufacturing lumber for build-
ings and other purposes, and where the fruit boxes are made; a veg-
etable garden which supplies the boarding house with the best that
can be grown and also returns from $100 to $300 per acre yearly from
melons, cantaloupes, tomatoes, wax beans, sweet corn, etc., sent to
the markets of Seattle and other Puget Sound cities; a blacksmith
and carpenter shop for the repairing of all machinery, tools, etc.

The sheltered location, chemical construction of soil, long period
of sunshine, with no summer frosts or pests of any kind, together
with good markets, make a well cared for orchard in the Wenatchee
Valley a veritable gold mine. There are no failures of crop. From
$200 to $500 worth of fruit per acre annually is an average yield.
Figure what this means from the 500 acres of orchard that will soon
be under cultivation by the Tibbits-Scaman Company!

The beef cattle pay a net profit of 25 per cent. They are fed on
the range bordering the eastern foothills of the Cascades from nine
to ten months of the year, without cost or expense of any kind,
and are wintered on alfalfa hay grown upon the company's own
lands at a total cost of $1.10 per ton. An average of eight tons per
acre is grown during a summer. It is cut three times.

The land holdings of the company cover 2,000 acres — one-half of
it under irrigation. This is not large compared with wheat farms or
stock ranges, but for an irrigated farm where every acre is tilled to
its utmost and made to produce from |ioo to $500 annually, and
where bearing orchards pay a high rate of profit on a valuation of
$1,000 per acre, it means a big business — a large profit.

J. FURTH, J. S. GOLDSMITH, R. V. ANKENY,

President VicB'Tresident Cashier

G. H. TARBELL, jissistant Cashier
I. KOHN, Jissistant Cashier

^he Puget Sound
National Bank
of Seattle

Cable

Address

"Furth"

We use

Liebers
Code

Capital $300,000

Undivided Profits if) 1 0 Uf UUU

CORRESPONDENTS

in all principal cities of United
States, E,urope, China, Japan,
Hawaiian Islands, AlasKa, Brit=
ish Columbia, and NortK^vest
Territory a 0 DRAFTS issued
direct to Skagway, Atlin, Ben=
nett, Dawson City, and Nome

COLLECTIONS MADE on ALL POINTS

on reasonable terms

CORRESPONDENCE INVITED

WASHINGTON.

n/IORAN Bros. Company

SEATTLE, WASHINGTON

Ship and Engine Builders

STEEL AND WOOD VESSELS, STEAM OR SAIL

FOR OCEAN, SOUND, AND RIVER SERVICE

FOUNDRY, MACHINE, BOILER, and FORGE SHOPS

LARGEST TOOLS AND EQUAL TO ANY REQUIREMENT
HEAVY FORCINGS A SPECIALTY

DRY DOCK AND MARINE RAILWAY

Two-Section balanced floating dry-dock, 400 ft. long, 60 ft. between towers :
patent steel-wedge keel blocks; 12,000 tons displacement

CAPACITY OF MARINE RAILWAY 1,500 TONS

SHIP CHANDLERY, ENGINEERS' SUPPLIES

SAW AND PLANING MILL

capacity: timber, 48 INCHES SQUARE, 125 FEET LONG

INCLUDING EVERY DESCRIPTION OF ROUGH,

DRESSED, OR KILN DRIED

YELLOW FIR, RED CEDAR, or SPRUCE

We make a specialty of long and large timber and can dress four sides 20x30 inches

SPARS

r^l L1.LO OR TIMBER OF ANY DESCRIPTION

THE LONGEST, LARGEST. CLEAREST AND BEST IN THE
world; ROUGH OR HEWN

CARS FROM ALL TRANSCONTINENTAL ROADS

ENTER OUR YARDS AND DOCKS

DOCK SHIPMENTS TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD

ELECTRIC CRANE capacity to transfer 75 tons fror
car to vessel

FIRST-CLASS BATTLESHIP NEBRASKA

15,000 TONS DISPLACEMEP4T, NOW BEING CONSTRUCTED FOR
THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT

WE INVITE CORRESPONDENCE FROM ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD

BALLARD, WASHINGTON

LARGEST

SHINGLE IMANUFACTURING CITY

IN THE WORLD.

BALLARD'S WATER FRONT.

BALLARD IS ONLY 20 /niNL'TES' RIDE rRSA\
SEATTLE BY THE GREAT NORTHERN AND
NORTHERN PACIPIC RAILWAYS AND ELEC-
TRIC LINES.

THE INTERESTS AND ENVIRONMENTS OE
THE TWO CITIES ARE IDENTICAL.

BALLARD IS SITUATED ON SAL.nON BAY, A
DEEP-SEA HARBSR, WHERE VESSELS CAN
LOAD DIRECT PRO/n THE A\1LL WHARVES.
IT IS THE riNEST LOG HARBOR IN THE
WORLD.

BALLARD, WASHINGTON.

BALLARD IS AN IDEAL LSCATISN psR AANU-
TACTURING PLANTS.

IS NOW THE CENTER OE THE LUABER
INDUSTRY or PUGET SOUND. PRESENT
PAY-ROLL, $150,000 PER A\ONTH.

BALLARD IS THE ENTRANCE TS THE UNITED
STATES GOVERNMENT LAKE WASHING-
TON SHIP CANAL.

THERE IS NO EINER CLl/nATE, LOCATION,
OR BETTER 1NDUCEA\ENTS THAN AT
BALLARD.

THE GROUND RISES GRADUALLY' EROAA
THE WATER ERONT TO THE FOUNTAINS,
AND ArrORDS THE BEST SITES TOR A
CITY ON THE SOUND.

THE NU/nBER SE Hs/HES HAVE D2UBLED IN
THREE YEARS, AND PROPERTY VALUES
HAVE INCREASED 25 PER CENT PER
ANNUn rOR THE PAST EOUR YEARS.

BALLARD PRESENTS WONDERPUL OPPOR-
TUNITIES POR /MODERATE CAPITAL TO
ESTABLISH INDUSTRIES.

FOR FREE INPOR/nATION ADDRESS,

BUSINESS MEN'S ASSOCIATION, BALLARD, WASH.

OPPICERS:

c). W. WMITHAM, PRES. E. B. cox. 1st V.-PRES.

R. \V. GROVER, 2D V.-PRES. E. n. DE /'VOSS, TREAS.

d. P. WALL. Sec'Y.

t^^Kte^^Jf^LamiJItf* m>mi^»^>itiittiy»l^*^><tyt<^ <tJtimmm>ml^t^*^'f^

THOS. TYLER,

Timber Cruiser and Locator.

A. H. WRIGHT

Notary Public.

Tyler e Wright
Dealers in Timber

Mines, Mining and Other Stocks,
Clay "Beds, and Coal Lands

Those who deal with us make no mistake, as

we are posted on the properties we handle.
References furnished when required.
Inquiries and investigation invited.

Office. 1305 E,lk Street,
WHATCOM. WASH,

|(gW*'»Vlr*-**i^l

Lumber

Important to the Buyer

To know that we are the largest manu-
facturers and rail shippers of the
famous White=as=J\Iilk Washington
Spruce on the Pacific Coast.

We make a specialty of :

Spruce Siding, Finishing, Porch
Decking, Box Shooks, Lath.

Fir Flooring, Tanks, Columns, Newels.

Cedar Shingles.

For shipment in mixed car lots.

Labor

Important to the Working Man

To know that we constantly employ, both win-
ter and summer, in and around our saw mills,
shingle mills, box factory, tank factory, planing
mills, etc., oVer 500 men and boys, and

can at all times furnish emplo5^ment to parties
in search of work. Capable employes promoted
as opportunity offers.

GRAYS HARBOR COMMERCIAL CO.

C. F. WHITE,, Manager,

COSMOPOLIS, WASH.

T A COM A, WASH.

T A C O M A

Is county seat of Pierce County, largest seaport on
the Pacific Coast except San Francisco, terminal port
of more trans-Pacific steamships than any other city on
the Pacific Coast, nearest port to the best coal and only
good coke on the Coast, center of more water-power
than any other city on the Coast.

Population January 1, 1903, estimated 60,000.

Public schools, 22; teachers, 21 1 ; children of school age, 11,261.

Number of wage earners, 7,878.

Value of output of manufactures, |25,000,000.

Lumber cut, 1902, 304,000,000 feet.

Shingle cut, 1902, 347,565,000.

Lumber shipped by water, 1902, 108,000,000 feet.

Lumber shipped by rail, 1902, 4,932 cars.

Shingles shipped by rail, 1902, 1,100 cars.

Value of smelter output, |4,765,941.

Capacity of grain warehouses, 5,500,000 bushels.

Capacity of coal bunkers, 24,000 tons.

Building permits Issued, 1902, 896.

Postoface receipts, 1900, $69,826; 1901, |80,305; 1902,194,035.

Telephones in use January 1, 1900, 1,767; 1901, 2,655; 1902,
3,527; 1903, 5,136.

Total foreign exports, 1902, $19,091,491 ; other twelve ports on
Puget Sound, $15,594,532.

Total ocean commerce, foreign and domestic, 1902, $40,431,663.

Tea imported, 1902, 5,466,247 pounds; value, $851,850.

Matting imported, 1902, 13,234,206 yards; value, $1,080,000.

Exports to Alaska, $1,100,000 yearly.

Deep sea vessels cleared, 1902, 890.

Deep sea vessels entered, 1902, 888.

There was shipped from the city of Taooma during the year
1902, 11,829,093 bushels of wheat; 1,351,224 barrels of
flour, which, reduced to wheat, makes a total of 17,909,601
bushels of wheat. This was exceeded by only two ports
in the United States.

Average annual rainfall, 42 inches.

TACOMA has

The longest wheat warehouse in the world, the largest
lumber mill in the world, the largest sash and door factory
in the United States, the largest smelter on the Pacific
Coast, the largest cold storage plant on the Pacific Coast,
the most complete and extensive railway terminals in
the United States, the finest harbor in the world, the
largest coal bunkers on the Pacific Coast, a larger flour
trade with the Orient than any other port in the United
States.

•-^•^V*>y

Timberand Farm Lands

" GOVERNMENT EXPERTS SAY THAT THERE ARE

66 Billion feet of Fir,
16 Billion feet of Cedar,
14 Billion feet of Hemlock, and
6 Billion feet of Spruce Timber

STANDING WEST OF THE CAS-
CADE RANGE OF MOUNTAINS IN
THE STATE OF WASHINGTON."

WE, HAVE SOME.
OF IT FOR SALE

We also have between 300 and 400 low-
pricedWashington farms to dispose of.
Send for printed list and onr pocket
map of Washington.

The Syndicate Compant;,

(Incorporated)

211=212-213 CaUfornia ■Building.
TACOMA, WASH.

Investments

NO CITY IN THE WEST OFFERS
BETTER OPPORTUNITIES THAN

Tacoma

FOR SAFE AND PROFITABLE
INVESTMENTS.

^Business and Residence ^Properties pay from 6
to 12 per cent. Mortgages from 5 to 7 per cent.

We deal extensively in County and City Warrants and Bonds.

We have a department for Collecting Rents, Paying Taxes, and Taking
Charge of Properties for Resident and Non-resident Owners.

Our business was established in 1893 and we can furnish satisfactory
references East and West.

CALVIN 'PHILIPS AND COMPANY

{Incorporated}

211=212=213 California "Building, TACOMA, WASH.

« » ~^

STATE CAPITOL.

OLYMPIA

Capital of ^ajeftjington

i^ a 25fautiful €itp at tl)e ]^eali of l^abigation

on ^ugct ^^ounJj

POPULATION :: 7,000

Bank Deposits Frequently Exceed §3,000,000

LOW TAX RATE

CranjSjJortation lip Jlatl anti 9^ater to all
part^ of tl)e ^orlti

FREE SITES FOR FACTORIES

For Particulars, address:

OLYMPIA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

Olympia, Capital of Washington.

VIEW ON MAIN STREET,
BUSINESS PORTION OF OLYMPIA, WASHINGTON.

'HEN going West, don't fail to investigate the
beauties and advantages of Puget Sound and
of Olympia, the attractive and prosperous city
at its inland extremity. Fine scenery, healthful

climate, fruitful soil, mammoth lumbering operations, splendid

resources, all conspire to attract the homeseeker and investor.

Olympia was awarded World's Fair gold medals for fruits, and

prizes for farm products.

OLYMPIA OYSTERS
EVER HEAR OF THEM?

As an article of commerce, they bring in hundreds of thousands
of .dollars annually. As an article of diet, they make you
laugh and grow fat.

iW" IK^ead Olympia's Write-up, page 236, in this publication.

WASI-IINGTON.

HENRY DRUM GEO. E. THOMPSON

THOIMPSON & DRUM

Investment Brokers
OLYI^IPIA (^?^r) WASHINGTON

TIIiBEK

If you want to buy timber or desire a logging or
manufacturing business, write us. We know
the business from successful experience.

OYSTERS

An extensive and very profitable industry in this
locality. The demand for the native " Olympia"
oyster will always exceed the supply. It is a
very small and delicious oyster, highly prized
by Eastern epicures. Only ordinary intelligence
required to make a success — no previous experi-
ence necessary.

Eastern oysters transplanted and successfully
grown here. Excellent opportunities for use of
small or large capital in opening new beds and
syndicating established plants.
Write us. We say above from experience.

OLYI^PIA

REAL
ESTATE

(

State capital and county seat Thurston County.

Population, 6,000; deep-water commerce; two

railroads; fine agricultural and horticultural

lands. Chief industries, lumbering, coal, and

oystering.

We can sell you a city home, business property,

suburban acreage, or a good farm.

Reference

A twenty years' residence, practical business
experience, and extensive State acquaintance
permit us to say: Write to any State official, to
our County officers, to our local banks, or any
banker in the State, concerning our integrit)'
or ability to serve you satisfactorily.

THE DALLES

be o 3f^-^-

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■,OVEr>HMENT I5LAN

^POfiTLAND

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SAUVieS ISLANO
^WAPfiTO) '^

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PORTLAND, ORE.

The

HILL
MIUTARY X . <^ J

ACADEMYpJiJ oucccss and

High Standing

of many hundreds of Dr. Hill's graduates and former pupils
during the last 24 years indicate the merits of his methods.
Prepares tor college in Classical, Scientific, and English

courses. Regular course is practical training for business |

life. Maniial training and mechanical drawing. Special |

courses in modern languages and music. New buildings, |

modern equipment, private sleeping rooms, no open dormi- \

tory ; recreation rooms, large armory ; Athletics promoted •

and encouraged; chemical and physical laboratories; ex- \

perienced faculty. A Boarding mid day School for Boys of all ages. I

Yoitnger Boys separate. \

FOR CATALOGUE, ETC., DR. J. W. HILL, Principal
APPLY TO PORTLAND, OREGON

HOOD RiVER, ORE.

GE.O. T. PRATHER, Pres., L. H. PRATHER. Vtce-Tres.

U. S. Commissioner and C. E. HEMMAN, Sec.-Treas.,

Notary Public. Notart/ Public.

THE, PRATHE,R
INVESTMIINT COMPANY

The Old Reliable Real Estate Agents

Abstracts, C«i nveyancing, Real £,state.
Insurance, and Money to Loan

LOTS AND BLOCKS FOR SALE
TAXES PAID FOR NON-RESIDENTS
CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED
TOWNSHIP PLATS AND BLANKS IN STOCK

Special attention giVen to the sale of fruit lands
in the Hood RiVer Valley

Telephone No. 51 Hood Rivcr, Oregon

The Dalles, Wasco County, Oregon.

THE Lmh If ^wa

is the first county of Eastern Oregon, and The Dalles is
its county seat;. is the gateway to the "Great Inland
Empire " ; is situated at the head of navigation of the
Middle Columbia River on the line of the O. R. & N.,
eighty-eight miles east of the city of Portland,Oregon's
metropolis.

It has a population of 4,000.

It has five public school buildings and nine church
buildings.

It has a larger volume of banking business than any
other city of like population in the United States.

It has a United States land office.

It has an open river to tide-water and the lowest
freight rates of any point on the Columbia River.

Its merchants suppl}' an extensive trade and do a
large volume of business.

It is in the center of the best fruit belt in the North-
west.

It has large flouring mills driven by electric power
generated at a 160-foot falls of a mountain stream,
twenty-seven miles distant.

It is the county seat of a county seventy miles square,
whose resources are many, varied, and inexhaustible.

It grows a million bushels of wheat, has fine salmon
fisheries, ships 250 tons of canned salmon, a quarter of
a million dollars of green fruit of excellent fiavor and

The Dalles, Wasco County, Oregon.

shipping qualities, any variety of which makes a stan-
dard brand of canned goods.

Its winter apples sell higher than Riverside oranges.

It is the Western home of the Italian prune, and has
taken the county diploma and eleven out of thirteen
possible prizes at a Northwest competitive fruit exhibit.
From the luscious strawberry to the large prize apple
of the Centennial, it excels.

It is the greatest original wool shipping point in the
United States and has shipped eight million poimds in
one season.

Its climate is the Italy of Oregon, and it has seventy-
five more out-door working (Iajs in a 5'ear (Sunday
excepted) than any Pacific Coast count)'.

It has a varied altitude of from 100 feet above the
sea level to the limit of perpetual snow.

It has the grandest scenery and more of it per capita
than any place in America.

It wants the economic home-builder.

It wants the extensive investor in every department
of its resources.

It wants manufacturers and will supply them with
electricity for motive power and will furnish any
required amount of undeveloped and untransmitted
power from its mountain streams and waterfalls, and
wants a hundred thousand energetic, active, prosperous
people to help to supply the wants of the world, and
wants your careful consideration of its wants.

Address,

The Dalles
Commercial and Athletic Club,

N. WHEALDON, President,
MAX A. VOGT, Secretary.

WASCO COUNTY, ORE.

Real Estate

Promoting

and

Call for ant> requisite of

Agricultural Lands

from a small home farm up to
section tracts of five to tWenty=
five square miles, or ant/ desired
amount of fruit lands, from small
tracts for small fruit to ant; de=
sired tract for a commercial
orchard of prunes or Winter
apples. Slualitif and superior re'
suits unequaled.

Or for a small combination
farm for grain and grazing, or a
32,000'acre cattle plant With ex-
tensive adjoining range, stociced
and equipped, or a Whole grant
of 450,000 acres. Or

Timber Land

t/elloW pine, fir, or mixed Vari'
eties from a single claim to
65,000 acres. Or irrigated lands,
cits property, or business loca=
tions. Or

Mining Claims

or groups of mines. Valuable clay
deposits, or mineral land.

Call or write and receive Prospectus and price. Address

N. WHEALDON,

THE DALLES, WASCO COUNTY,
OREGON

HOMESEEKERS IN THE
PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Your attention is called to the lands of the Eastern Oregon Land
Company, open for purchase and settlement upon easy terms.

The property of this Company, comprising 450,000 acres, lies in
the counties of Wasco, Sherman, Gilliam, Wheeler, Grant, Baker,
and Malheur, in Eastern Oregon, and consists of the alternate odd-
numbered sections granted by the Government for the construction
of a wagon road beginning at The Dalles, on the Columbia River,
and terminating at a point on the Snake River four miles south of
Nyssa, passing through the towns of Moro, Grass Valley, Shaniko,
Mitchell, Dayville, Canyon City, Prairie City, and Vale. It is, there-
fore, diverse in climate and topography, and the lands comprise
farming, grazing, timber, and mineral sections and a large country
subject to irrigation.

The Oregon Railway & Navigation Co., the Oregon Short Line,
and the Columbia Southern touch the grant at various points, and
an extension of the Sumpter Valley Railroad is in process of con-
struction into the John Day Valley. The Columbia River and Snake
River also present easy and cheap forms of transportation for the
products of all this country, in addition to which various railroads
are projected into all parts of Eastern Oregon.

THE AGRICULTURAL LANDS in Sherman and Wasco
counties are the perfection of such properties in the State of Oregon,
producing from twenty to fifty bushels to the acre without fear of
failure, within easy reach of mills and cheap communication with
tide-water at Portland. These lands are fully occupied and carefully
farmed.

THE GRAZING LANDS, of which the Company possesses in
the neighborhood of 250,000 acres, are furnished with the famous
bunch grass and other natural grasses and fodders, numerous springs
and artificial wells at depths of from 50 to 150 feet. These grazing
lands lie beyond Shaniko east to the Snake River. The valleys
traversed in this country produce hay and alfalfa and afford warm
winter ranges, while the uplands are plentifully supplied with rich,
nutritious natural grasses. Sheep, hogs, and cattle are raised
throughout this section. Direct and cheap communication with the
Eastern and Western markets give all these products ready and
profitable sale.

THE DALLES, OREGON

The development in the eastern end of the grant of irrigation
systems, under the Government's supervision and by private enter-
prise, is opening up many thousands Of acres of lands to crops
hitherto impossible of cultivation. These lands, once held at mode-
rate figures, have now advanced and, with the proof of the value
of irrigation, are expected to continue their advance in price and
productiveness.

THE MINERAL INTERESTS are scattered throughout the
whole of this country in gold, silver, quartz, and placer mines, copper-
lead, oil, and coal. The mines in the neighborhood of Canyon City
have been worked profitably for many j-ears, and those mines on the
Greenhorn and Dixie mountains near Prairie City are paying hand-
somely, while modern methods of working the ores have opened up
many old discoveries which had hitherto been regarded as unprofit-
able.

Oil prospects are being developed and tested in Malheur County
with flattering prospects of success at the present time.

THE PLENTIFUL SUPPLY OF TIMBER throughout this
country gives the necessary material for domestic fuel, as well as
cheap material for fencing and farm improvements.

The timber, which lies principally on the ridges of the Blue
Mountains, consists of pine, cedar, and tamarack of first-class qual-
ity, and with the development of the railway systems now con-
templated will be within easy touch of the markets of the East and
West. Of this class of land the Company owns in the neighborhood
of 50,000 acres.

The attention of prospective settlers in Eastern Oregon is par-
ticularly called to the Eastern Oregon Land Company's grazing,
mineral, and timber lands and lands subject to irrigation. These
lands, as above described, are east of Shaniko in Wasco County,
and run thence through Antelope, Mitchell, Antone, Dayville,
Canyon City, Prairie City, Ironside, Dell, and Vale to Nyssa. It is
the purpose of the Company to dispose of these lands upon easy
terms — one-fourth of the price down, the balance in three payments,
bearing interest at 8 per cent. Information and description of par-
ticular sections will be furnished on application to the

Eastern Oregon Land Company

Columbian Building, San Francisco

or to The Dalles, Oregon

Grande Ronde Valley

UNION COUNTY, OREGON

|,.S:,.-

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For further information address

THE HOME-
SEEKERS'
DELIGHT

There are many fine
spots in the United
States but Grande
Ronde Valley sur-
passes all. Here a
failure of crop was
never known. Fruits
of all kinds grow in
abundance without
irrigation. Cattle
are raised with great
success and very
cheaply. Abundance
of summer range in
our mountains.
Also are offered ex-
cellent investments
from a loan stand-
point— six per cent
interest guaranteed.
Some choice mining
investments are
offered.

LA GRANDE INVESTMENT Co.

LA GRANDE-, OREGON

GOLDENDALE,,
KLICKITAT COUNTY, WASH.

Klickitat County lies just east of Cascade
Range, with a frontage of 150 miles on the
Columbia River. The western half of the
county is accessible by river transportation to
Portland and the sea.

More than half of the lands in the county
are susceptible of cultivation. The remainder
is fine grazing and timber land, a large portion
of the latter being adapted to fruit-growing as
veil as to the various grains. The soil of the
prairie lands is a black, sandy loam, and is very
productive.

The principal crops grown are wheat, oats,
barley, rye, and timothy on the bottom lands.
Corn has also proved to be a paying crop.
Alfalfa, brome-grass, and many other grasses
are raised very successfully. Small fruits and
vegetables are grown, equal, if not superior, to
any other county in the United States. The
hardy fruits — apples, pears, plums, prunes,
and cherries — are particularly adapted to the
soil and climate along the Columbia River,
while peaches, grapes, and apricots grow to
great perfection. No irrigation is needed in
the county, although the yield is increased by
that means in some sections.

Camas Prairie and Trout Lake communities
are noted for their fine cattle and dairies. The
butter from these sections is acknowledged to
be the finest sent to Portland and the Sound
markets. Klickitat County is one of the largest
wool-producing counties in the State; a great
many hogs are also marketed every j-ear.

Cyclones, blizzards, tornadoes, hail, and
damaging wind-storms are entirely unknown
in the valley. The winters are short, compared
with those in the East, and while there is con-
siderable snow at times and the mercury goes below zero, such extreme
weather never lasts long. The summer and fall months are delight-
ful; there are only a few hot days, and the nights are always cool.

Most all of the religious denominations are represented, there
being over twenty church edifices in the county. There are sixty -five
school districts in the county. At Goldendale is located a public
academy for the advanced training of students from the public schools.
Goldendale, the county seat, is situated in the famous Klickitat
Valley, on the Little Klickitat River, and has a population of 1,500.
There are two flour mills, run by. water, with power suiiicient for
other mantifactories. There are several sawmills near the city and
tributary to it, and room for more. Goldendale boasts of the finest
mountain spring water of any city in the State, and has an abundance
of it, besides which there are hot water, soda, and sulphur springs.

AMPLE WATER POWER.

GOLDENDALE, WASH.

Goldendale is the largest town in this part of the State, and is the
leading point for the entire county. From it may be had a view of
ML Hood, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Adams, and some of the less promi-
nent peaks, all snow-capped throughout the year — monuments of
majestic beauty.

Extensive pine forests, coal lands, undeveloped mines of silver,
gold, copper, etc., are to be had in an unimproved state. The
county is replete in fine wheat and stock farms, such as the farmer of
Iowa, Minnesota, Dakota, Missouri, or any other grain or stock-
raising country would look at with pleasure. Here the grain grows
with straw sufficiently strong to hold it up, and it never lodges ; with
fields free from noxious weeds, such as kale and cockle. Unimproved
land can be had for from $5 per acre up, and improved land from
$10 to $30 per acre, according to the improvement and location.

The Columbia River & Northern Railroad, now building through
the valley, will open and connect it with the nearby railroads and thus
supply the people with a long felt want, and develop the county to its
fullest extent. Other railroads projected which will give Klickitat
County better railroad facilities than any county in the State.

For health Klickitat County can not be beat. It has a fine climate,
a bracing atmosphere, and the best water that can be had anywhere.
For the sportsman the streams are teeming with speckled trout, while
grouse, pheasant, prairie chicken, sage hen, and china pheasant are
the feathered game, and bear, mountain lion, and deer are to be found
in the mountains. For further information regarding this wonderful
valley, address

SECRETARY OF THE BOARD OF TRADE,

GOLDENDALE, WASH.

THE MILL AND

THE STREAM,

THE DAIRY HOUSE
NEAR IT

GOLDEKTDALE, WASH.

STOP!

^ This Map 1 Shows m
THE

Famous Klickitat Valley

SOME OF ITS ADVANTAGES.

A PINE CLIMATE,
PRODTJOTIVE SOIL,
RICH QRAZINO LANDS,
ABTTNDANOE OF PTTKE 'WATEB,
ABUNDANCE OP CHEAP PTJEL
AND LUMBER,

LARGE CROPS 'WITHOUT PAILURE,

READY MARKET,

TOP PRICES,

CHEAP LANDS.

GOOD SCHOOLS AND CHURCHES.

"k Valley of Health and Wealth, of Sunny Days and Restful Nights. ' '

WRITE FOR OUR
BOOKLET

J. J. Beid, Manager

K. C. LAND &. LOAN CO.

GOLDENDALE, WASH.

J. C. Maclnnes, Secretary.

SUMPTER,

OREGON

Is one of the most progressive cities of the
Great Northwest.

It is a tliriving mining town in the Blue
Mountains, a growing cit}^ alive and
enterprising.

It is the terminus of the Sumpter Valley
Railwa3^

Capital from all parts of the world is being
invested here to advantage.

Unusual opportunities are being offered to
investors in mining property.

SUMPTER

Is the center of the Eastern Oregon
GOLD FIELDS

SUMPTE,R, OREGON

SUMPTE^R

Has a population of 4,000, and is still grow-
ing.

Electric lines are being built from Sumpter
into the higher altitudes.

A smelter is being constructed, and other
plans for taking care of the ores are
being made.

An extension of the railroad is under wa}",
which will add to the transportation
facilities.

The mines are being rapidly developed;
new strikes are being made, showing
the strength and continuity of the
veins.

The cit}^ has one hundred and fifty business
houses, and prices are advancing.

For full information regarding this
region address

The Chamber of Commerce,

SUIMPTER. OREGON

SUMP TEH, ORE.

Mining, Smelter, Railway

STOCKS

We are the Original Promoters in the
EASTERN OREGON GOLD FIELDS

We have opened a number of the best properties
in the district, built a smelter, and sold a large num-
ber of mines. We are now offering treasury stock ir

Three Gilt Edge Properties
to develop and equip them

We always have a number of good properties listed
with us for sale.

EASTERN OREGON

is without doubt the best gold camp in the world. If you
do 'not believe this, write to us and ask for our reasons.
We will be glad to give you full information on the dis-
trict and our way of doing business. It will all please
you. Write us to-day.

Killen Warner SteWart Co,

SUMPTER, OREGON.

E.astern Offices

537 New York Life Building Herman Building

New York Milwaukee

Boston Philadelphia Baltimore Grand Rapids

Code — Bedford McNeill

BAKER CITY, ORE.

I SELL THE EARTH

AND M\ PREPARED TO INTEREST THE

HOIME SEEKER and INVESTOR

^ IN-

REAL ESTATE and INSURANCE
LOANS and SECURITIES
BUSINESS BLOCKS and HOUSES
MINES and MINING PROPERTY

ESTABLISHED TWENTY-SEVEN YEARS

J. F. FERGUSON

0/\KES BLDG., - 2023 WASHINGTON ST.
BAKER CITY, ORE.

Correspondence Solicited

CHICAGO, ILL,

THE, CELEBRATED RAND=McNALLY

Indexed Pocket Maps

of Every State and Territory

Last Official Census
Revised and Corrected to Date.

An indexed booK accompanies each map, showing at a glance
the location of towns, their population, post office and money-
order office, express companies, telegraph stations, railroads,
etc. They also indicate the post office address nearest to any
point not yet supplied with mail service.

Price, 25 Cents Each.

142 Fifth Ave., 1>_-,J Mf Mallv .^ Prt 160=174 AdamsSt.,

NEW YORK. *>-ana, MciNaiiy c» «.^o. Chicago.

coos BA V, OREGON.

Great Central Railroad

coos BAY, ORE.GON
to SALT LAKE, UTAH

Among the great enterprises of the, year must be mentioned the Great Central
Railroad now in course of construction. This is a railroad from Coos Bay, the most
capacious harbor and the most accessible on the jjorthern Pacific Coast, between
San Francisco and Puget Sound, up through the undeveloped timber lands, extending
across Coos and Douglas counties from the ocean to the Cascade Mountain Range, the
splendidly fertile prairies of Eastern Oregon and thence into the richest section of Utah,
with a terminal station at Salt Lake City.

While the fertile irrigable lands and the abundant water courses of the " Inland
Empire," from the Cascade Range to the Rocky Mountains have been the subject of
thorough description by reason of Congressional interest and corporate enterprises,
the magnificent forest primeval, immense coal area, rich mineral deposits, and extraor-
dinary dairy productiveness of that wonderful zone extending from the Pacific Ocean
to the Coast Range have remained a "terra incognita" to all the world save those fortu-
nate men who have fallen upon its wealth.

The region consists of a number of well-watered, fertile valleys and rolling uplands.
The meteorological conditions make the climate analogous to that of western Europe;
for the warm Japanese current, rarifying the atmosphere in winter, draws into the par-
tial vacuum so formed the \varm winds of equinoxial regions, with the rapid vaporiza-
tions of the condition. The result is a warm, humid atmosphere, establishing an
extraordinary wealth of vegetation between the Coast Range and the ocean, like that of
the " Hot Lands" of Mexico and Central America. Last winter there were but thirty-
four frost days in Coos County, while snow fell on only two days, and the lowest
temperature of the season was twenty degrees above zero.

On entering this forest from the east the stranger is surprised to find oaks draped in
moss, like the trees of Florida and other States of the Grulf Coast. As he advances, he
sees the ferns becoming trees like those of Central America. In this forest, too, is a
great abundance of cabinet woods, curly and bird's-eye and plain maple, white cedar,
laurel, willow, and several merchantable hard woods. This wealth is both immense
and unique. Coos and Douglas counties contain the largest belt of white cedar in the
world, a wood already famous under the' name of " Port Orford Cedar," as being the
best known wood for the upper works of ship-building.

The giant firs of the region have a wide reputation ; spruce, hemlock, and myrtle
abound, the last being valuable for finishing purposes on account of the exquisite polish
its fine grain admits. Here, also, are ash, alder, and oak.

There are 13,000,000,000 feet of merchantable timber standing in the forests of Coos
County and 24,000,000,000 in Douglas, according to the latest official count.

The coal area of Coos County underlies 300,000 acres of surface covered with the
timber wealth above described. Gold mining is now enlisting enterprise in both Coos
and Douglas counties.

Copper ores of high grade are found in Douglas and also rich cinnabar in paying
quantities, also extensive beds of marble rival in coloring the famous marbles of
Vermont and Tennessee.

Dairymen, since the establishment of extensive creameries, are netting $1,120 to
$1,800 a year, and their cows live out-of-doors, without housing, all the year round.

Crossing the Cascade Range the line of the Great Central Railroad enters an open
prairie region of great fertility under irrigation, the character of which remains the
same to its terminus at Salt Lake City.

The investor and homeseeker may obtain further information by addressing

A. A. WRIGHT, Manager,

Ainsworth Block, PORTLAND, ORE,.

PORTLAND, ORE.

W^ m \(k@^ \(km \(km \(km {(km. {(km. \(km<. {(km {(km\ {Qq <

(<§

HOMESEEKER

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Your Most Direct Route to
Oregon, Washington, Idalio

- The Union Pacific Railroad

Oregon Short Line Railroad

<<§ Oregon Railroad & Navigation Co.

OUR NEW BOOK

TELLS YOU ALL ABOUT THE THREE
STATES; ALSO CONTAINS LARGE
MAP. FOUR CENTS, TO PARTIALLY
COVER POSTAGE, WILL BRING IT
TO YOU.

A. L. CRAIG, G. P. A.

OREGON RAILROAD & NAVIGATION CO.
PORTLAND, OREGON

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§>>

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NORTHERN PACIFIC RAILWAY STATION, LIVINGSTON, MONTANA.

^he Gateway

Yellowstone Vark,

GARDINER

Reached Via the Main line of the /NORTHERN PACIFIC to
Livingston and by a branch line Livingston to Gardiner.

M M M

THE $10,000 STONE ENTRANCE ARCHWAY, WHOSE
CORNER STONE PRESIDENT ROOSEVELT LAID, IS AT
GARDINER, ONLY FOUR MILES FROM MAMMOTH
HOT SPRINGS, THE CAPITAL OF THE PARK.

Send Six Cents

for copy of
" Wonderland."

CHAS. S. FE,E„

General "Passenger yigent,

ST. PAUL, MINN.

■

THE NORTH COAST LIMITED

Runs as a Solid Train between St. Paul and Minneapolis
and Seattle, Tacoma and Portland, via Butte, a distance of
more than 2,000 miles — a remarkable feat in railroading.
The Crack Train of the Northwest, having

PULLMANS, DINING, TOURIST, AND
OBSERVATION CARS.

THE "PUGET SOUND LIMITED"

Runs between Portland and Tacoma and Seattle, via Olympia.

Dining and Buffet-Parlor-Observation Car.

This train is the Pride of the Coast.

THE "lake superior LIMITED"

Runs between Minneapolis and St. Paul and the Superiors
and Duluth. Parlor and Observation-Cafe Cars.
A Train de Luxe.

CHAS. S. FEE, General Passenger Agent,
ST. PAUL, MINN.

MIL WA UKEE.

I The Beverage of
/ Health

[ There is no beverage more' healthful than the
right kind of beer. Barley malt and hops — a food
and a tonic. Only 3 ^^ per cent of alcohol — just
enough to aid digestion.

Rhine wme is 1 2 per cent alcohol; champagne,
20 per cent; whiskey, 40 per cent.

There are no germs in pure beer, while the sweet
drinks which you give children are full of them.
Pure beer is a tonic which all physicians favor.
They prescribe it to the weak, the run-down, the
I convalescent. And they recommend it to well i
I people who want to keep well. J

^ But get the right beer, for some beer is not healthful. I

B Schlitz is the pure beer, the clean beer, the filtered and fl

■ sterilized beer. No bacilli in it — nothing but health. H

B And Schlitz is the aged beer that never causes H

U ^^ biliousness. .^to. 'B

Y^^^W Call for the brewery bottling ^^^^

THE BEER THAT MADE MILWAUKEE FAMOUS

liiliiiii

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