Dahlias

INGOLOR

EDITED BY . . . . .
R. HOOPER PEARSON
MANAGING EDITOR
OF THE GARDENERS'

CHRONICLE .

PLATE I (Frontispiece}
CACTUS DAHLIA—MRS. RANDLE

395330

, \).M.H

National?
aL Society

NEW YORK
FREDERICK A. STOKES CO.

PREFACE

THE known history of the Dahlia covers a considerable
period, and teems with interest to those who are concerned
with plant development. One hundred and ten years ago
one of the forms of Dahlia variabilis flowered for the
first time in this country, and now the descendants of this
Mexican species are so numerous and diverse as to render
it difficult to realise that they have descended from the
species that bloomed in Eraser's nursery in 1802. The
fact illustrates in a remarkable degree the amount of varia-
tion that is sometimes to be found in a single species.

To those who fully appreciate the garden value of the
Dahlia it is a matter of satisfaction to know that once more
the flower appears to be attaining the high degree of popu-
larity it so well merits. The increased appreciation on the
part of the public is due to the raisers of the present day
having broken so far away from the traditions of the past
that they have directed some portion of their energy to
the production of varieties specially adapted for beautifying
the garden. The Dahlia has considerable value for the
late summer exhibitions, but it is not comparable with its
usefulness for the adornment of the garden. The flower is
equally suitable for the gardens of the stately mansions and
the smaller plot that surround the humbler cottages.

Recognising to the full the importance of the Dahlia

vii

viii PREFACE

in the garden, an endeavour has been made to give special
prominence in this volume to what may be regarded as
the garden aspects of the flower, and to the details by
which the many distinct and beautiful forms may be fully
utilised in the production of delightful colour effects and
abundant supplies of flowers for beautifying the home.

I have to thank Messrs. J. Cheal & Son, Mr. ]. B. Riding,
Messrs. }. Stredwick & Son, and Mr. C. Turner, for so
kindly contributing the flowers photographed by Mr.
Waltham for illustrating this volume.

GEORGE GORDON.

CONTENTS

CHAP.

PACK

I. INTRODUCTION ... .

II. DAHLIA HISTORY 7

III. SHOW AND FANCY DAHLIAS . . . „ 18

IV. CACTUS DAHLIAS ,29

V. SINGLE DAHLIAS 39

VI. POMPON OR BOUQUET VARIETIES .... 48

VII. P^EONY-FLOWERED DAHLIAS . . . • -53

VIII. DECORATIVE DAHLIAS 60

IX. COLLERETTE DAHLIAS 66

X. METHODS OF PROPAGATION . . . » . 70

XI. CULTIVATION . . » T * • • • 82

XII. SHOWS AND SHOWING . ,' . . « . 104

XIII. INSECT ENEMIES V * « • ' • • i10

INDEX .... « . . . .113

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PLATE

un * o> _ m ,

I. CACTUS DAHLIA—MRS. RANDLE . . Frontispiece

PAGE

II. FANCY DAHLIA— MRS. SAUNDERS . .14

III. CACTUS DAHLIA— CONQUEROR ... .26

IV. POMPON CACTUS DAHLIAS— MODESTY, GOLDFINCH . 42

V. SINGLE DAHLIAS— MRS. JOYNSON HICKS AND

CARDINAL . . • 56

VI. POMPON DAHLIAS— IDEAL, NELLIE BROOMHEAD,

AND EDITH BRYANT . . • •' • 74

VII. PJEONY-FLOWERED DAHLIA — THE GEISHA . * 90

VIII. COLLERETTE DAHLIA— GALLIA . ' , . . . IOO

DAHLIAS

CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTION

THE Dahlia differs in some respects from many of the
flowers on which the florists of this country have lavished
care and skill. It is similar to most of them in having
been brought to so high a state of development as to en-
able it to contribute to the attractions of the garden and
to bring honours to cultivators at the exhibitions ; but,
unlike some other flowers, it has not succeeded in evoking
a degree of enthusiasm proportionate to its merits. The
Dahlia does not appear to have appealed very strongly to
the poets, and the literature of the flower has suffered some-
what from the fact that writers have in the past overlooked
its historical aspect, confining their attention almost ex-
clusively to cultural details. Such practical information is
certainly of greater value than any other, but it should not
be regarded as all that the cultivator needs to know. Those
who would achieve success either in the creation of tasteful
effects in the garden or the production of exhibition blooms
must acquire a knowledge of the cultural details, but their
interest in the flower will be all the greater if they study

A

2 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

its history and learn how great and varied have been the
changes it has undergone during its cultivation in European
gardens. Not only is the interest increased, but the pleasure
to be derived from the cultivation of the plants is greatly
enhanced ; moreover, valuable lessons may be obtained
from the record of work of past generations of growers
and raisers.

With respect to the popularity of the Dahlia, attention
may with advantage be directed to the fact that there has
always been a remarkable steadiness about the fame of this
flower. Its cultivators are, it may be assumed, enthusiastic,
but their enthusiasm is of a quiet kind, and not, as in the
case of that of some other flowers, bubbling over and giving
rise to the feeling that it will soon exhaust itself. In taking
a retrospective glance over the hundred and odd years that
have elapsed since the Dahlia was introduced from its
Mexican home to this country, it becomes evident that, quiet
though it may have been, enthusiasm as well as strenuous
endeavour must have been forthcoming at an early period
in the history of the Dahlia as a cultivated flower. The
creation of the varied and beautiful types that are now to
be seen in gardens could not well have been effected with-
out something more than the carrying out, in a more or
less mechanical manner, of the technical details essential to
success. That something must have been enthusiasm, for
without it there could not have been that constancy of pur-
pose, extending over a comparatively long period, which is
an example to all who are engaged in plant improvement.

Even to those who are constantly in touch with the
activities of the florists of the present day, and therefore
conversant with what is being accomplished in the world

CACTUS VARIETIES 3

of flowers, it appears a marvellous accomplishment to have
evolved the noble show flower, the graceful cactus variety,
and the diminutive pompon, with numerous other types,
from the same wild species. In order to avoid any mis-
apprehension upon this point it may be well to state here
that Dahlia Yuarezii, from which the race of cactus varieties
has descended, was a cultivated plant in Mexican gardens
previous to its introduction into Europe, and it had under-
gone considerable modification before it left its native
country. This fact notwithstanding, there is full justifica-
tion for a strong sense of gratitude for what the raisers,
both past and present, have accomplished in the enrich-
ment of our gardens with flowers so distinct in character
and possessing so much beauty as the cactus Dahlias. The
earlier raisers may be regarded as unwise in endeavouring to
mould the flowers of all Dahlias on similar lines, and these
characterised by great formality. It would have been a
great advantage had the desirability of a diversity of form
been recognised at an earlier period than was the case ; but
it should be remembered that raisers have for business
purposes to produce that for which there is a ready sale.
Long after the Dahlia had made its home in this country the
demand was for finely formed flowers. Endeavours were
made to meet this, and the result is seen in the show
and fancy varieties.

Coming down to recent times, much the same thing has
occurred with the cactus Dahlia. Until quite recently the
demand was almost exclusively for varieties bearing blooms
large in size, pleasing in colour, and with gracefully arranged
florets, and the raisers concentrated their efforts on the
creation of varieties that met the requirements of pur-

4 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

chasers. If a considerable proportion of the cactus Dahlias
bearing blooms of high quality were of but little use for
contributing to the attractions of the garden, some portion
of the responsibility must be assigned to the cultivators.
Those who admired the graceful cactus-like blooms did
exactly what the lovers of roses had done before them :
they based their estimate of the merits of varieties upon the
individual blooms as presented to them at the public ex-
hibitions. In adding plants to their collections, whether for
garden decoration or exhibition, they made their selections
from the prize stands, and in the earlier days of the cactus
Dahlia the varieties bearing flowers in the highest state of
development had a very robust habit, consequently those
who purchased cactus Dahlias for the garden found that
instead of brilliant displays of colour they had masses of
foliage among which the flowers were hidden. In some
cases the luxuriance of growth was increased by the use of
manures in the preparation of the soil far beyond the re-
quirements of the plants.

Happily for the future of the Dahlia, both cultivators and
raisers now recognise the importance of differentiating be-
tween the varieties for exhibition purposes and for garden
decoration, and also between the methods of culture best
adapted for the respective purposes. In the case of ex-
hibition Dahlias individual blooms of the highest quality
in their respective sections, as denned by the florists,
are essential, and the varieties may be selected without
reference to the habit or freedom of flowering. But when,
as in the majority of cases, they are intended for beautify-
ing the garden, the character of growth and flower produc-
tion should have the first consideration, and those only

MAKING SELECTIONS 5

selected that are more or less compact in growth, free in
flowering, and that bear their blooms on stalks of sufficient
length and rigidity to carry them well above the foliage. This
is necessary in the case of all the sections, but more especially
should attention be given to these points in making selec-
tions of the cactus varieties. Those who are able to do so
should make visits to gardens and nurseries where repre-
sentative collections are grown, at the time the Dahlias are
in bloom, as the knowledge thus gained will be of much
assistance not only in making purchases, but in arranging
the plants in the garden. Not only should they inspect as
many collections as possible but also follow the selections
that are given under the several classes in this work, as they
have been prepared from notes made in the garden and
with special reference to the purpose for which they are
recommended. It will also be found of very considerable
importance to act upon the advice given with regard to
adapting the cultural details to the object in view.

With reference to the relative merits of the several
classes, it will suffice to say that this is a point which may
with advantage be left for every reader to determine for
himself. Whether this or that section should be regarded
as the best is a matter of taste. If the garden is small the
sections consisting of varieties that do not attain a large size
will be preferable, as they will admit of a representative
selection being grown in a limited space : for a somewhat
similar reason the giant decorative and the paeony-flowered
varieties are not so suitable for gardens of medium size as
for those having a large area. Whether the varieties be-
long to the cactus or show, or the pompon or single sections,
is not a matter of consequence, provided the class or

6 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

classes be in accordance with the taste of the owner of .the
garden. The only advice that can be given with advantage
on this subject is that cultivators should avoid placing an
undue limit upon the number of types to be grown in
gardens where the space is sufficient for all, because the
greater the diversity in the colours and forms of the flowers
the more lasting will be the interest and pleasure obtained
from their culture.

CHAPTER II
DAHLIA HISTORY

ALTHOUGH the history of the Dahlia in its relation to the
garden does not extend over a period exceeding 123 years,
it is necessary to go back nearly three centuries in quest of
the first description and illustrations of the flower : whether
the search might with profit be continued to a more remote
period is doubtful. There is no evidence to justify the
belief that there is an earlier record of the Dahlia than the
one given by Francisco Hernandez, physician to Philip II
of Spain, in his work on the plants and animals of New
Spain, or Mexico, which was published in 1615. Her-
nandez describes the flower under the Mexican name of
Acoctii, and the account is of much interest from the fact
that two forms — D. variabilis and D. crocata — are figured
in connection therewith, and that both have single flowers.
In a book that was based on the foregoing and published
at Rome by Vitalis Mascardi in 1651, there is a figure of a
Dahlia that, owing probably to indifferent drawing, leaves
one in doubt as to whether the flower was double or single.
If it is intended to represent a double bloom, there is
nothing to show whether the doubling had been effected
under natural conditions or within the boundaries of the
garden. The probability is that the flower figured was
single, and there is no other ground for assuming that the

8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Dahlia was undergoing modification in the direction of an
increase in the number of florets at so early a period.

From the publication of Mascardi's book at the middle
of the seventeenth century, nothing further relating to the
Dahlia was published until 1787, and the reference to it in
a treatise which appeared in that year was for the benefit of
the French flower-lovers. Nicholas Thierry de Menonville
was commissioned to visit South America for the purpose
of obtaining the cochineal insect and the plant on which
it lives, and he appears to have been successful. It
is evident that he gave attention to matters others than
those immediately associated with the object of his journey,
the Dahlia being among them. In 1787 Menonville pub-
lished a treatise on the cochineal insect and its host plant,
and in this he described the Dahlias that had come under
his notice in a garden near Guaxaca. There he stated that
the plants attained a height of between five and six feet, they
had leaves similar in form and size to those of the elder,
and aster-like flowers of comparatively large size. Menon-
ville's treatise is thus of interest as containing the first
reference to the Dahlia as a cultivated plant.

In the year 1789 the Dahlia was introduced into
this country, but unfortunately the plants that were first
raised failed to retain their vitality in the conditions to
which they were subjected. In the course of that year
Vincentes Cervantes, director of the Mexican Botanic Garden,
sent seeds of the Dahlia to the Abb6 Cavanilles, director of
the Royal Gardens at Madrid. At that time the Marquis
of Bute was the English Ambassador at the Spanish Court,
and the Marchioness, who was greatly interested in flori-
cultural matters, obtained some of these seeds and sent

SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION 9

them home. From them plants were raised ; but owing to
their having teen grown in a greenhouse, without probably
an annual rest, it was not found possible to keep them alive
more than two or three years. Nothing further was seen
of the Dahlia in this country until 1802, when John Fraser,
an enterprising nurseryman carrying on business in Sloane
Square, obtained from Paris some seeds of Dahlia coccinca,
a now well-known, single form with rather small, brilliant
scarlet flowers borne on long, rigid stems of a deep bronze-
green hue. From these he raised plants that flowered in
one of his greenhouses in the following year, and from
one of the blooms a coloured plate was prepared and
published in the Botanical Magazine, Tab. 762, a place
being thus secured for the Dahlia in the botanical literature
of this country. Ten years later the second edition of
Aiton's Hortus Kewensis was published, and in this work
two reputed species and three varieties were included.

Abbe Cavanilles would appear to have been successful
in the raising and cultivation of his Dahlias. One of the
plants raised from the Mexican seed produced semi-double
flowers in 1790, and in January of the following year was
figured in his Icones et Descriptiones Plantarum, the publi-
cation of which was commenced at Madrid in 1791, as
Dahlia pinnata, the early designation of the species now
known as D. variabilis. Cavanilles dedicated the plant to
M. Andre Dahl, a Swedish botanist of distinction, and the
author of a work on the Linnaean system published in 1784.
We have thus evidence that the doubling of the Dahlia in
Europe commenced in the year in which it first flowered
in Spain. The failures to grow the Dahlia when first
introduced to this country and France were due to culti-

io PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

valors regarding it as a tropical plant requiring much heat,
whereas it has its home on the higher plateaux of Mexico,
and thrives in comparatively low temperatures. Humboldt
and Bonpland in their famous explorations in Mexico, which
commenced in 1799, found Dahlias growing wild in a prairie
between Areo and Patzcuaro at an altitude of 5000 feet
above the sea level.

In 1804, the year in which the illustration of Dahlia
coccinea was published in the Botanical Magazine, a
second supply of seed was received in this country from
Madrid. This was sent by Lady Holland to M. Bounainte,
librarian to Lord Holland at Holland House, Kensington,
and he was successful in raising the three varieties
coccinea, crocea, and purpurea. They all bloomed satis-
factorily, and were figured in the botanical periodicals.
At that period the light and elegant single flowers which
are now so highly appreciated were not regarded as suffi-
cient by the flower-loving public, and no sooner had the
Dahlia made its way into gardens than strenuous en-
deavours were made by cultivators to obtain varieties with
double flowers. During the first ten years or so of the
nineteenth century the Dahlia made its way into several
of the chief countries of the Continent of Europe, and
was received with much favour. M. Otto, director of
the Berlin Botanic Gardens, cultivated it largely, raised
many new varieties from seed obtained as the result
of careful cross-fertilisation, and effected considerable im-
provements. Hartig, the garden inspector at Karlsruhe,
obtained a double variety that attracted much attention
from growers. From Berlin the Dahlia was in 1812
brought by Vogel to Erfurt, and by Haage to Leipzig.

FRENCH VARIETIES 11

Haage raised a nearly double flower that created much
interest, particularly for its rich purple colour. At this
period, much attention was given to the cultivation and
improvement of Dahlias in France, and when, in 1814,
the difficulties connected with visiting that country were
removed, Dahlia fanciers found their favourite flower
plentiful in French gardens. Many French varieties were
introduced to this country, where they were received with
enthusiasm. Two of the leading French amateurs were
M. Lelieur of Sevres and Comte de Vandes. To the last-
named belongs the credit of having sent to Dr. John Sims
the specimens of the two varieties that were figured in the
Botanical Magazine for 1817, Tab. 1885 A and Tab. 18858.
The first of these was a single flower of considerable size,
fine form, and a brilliant scarlet hue ; the other a double
flower of medium size, having nearly flat and somewhat
reflexing florets, whilst the colour was bright rose shading
to light rose at the margin. In general appearance it must
have resembled some of the old decorative varieties that
were reintroduced during the years 1870-80.

By this time the Dahlia had become established in
English gardens, and it rapidly increased in popular favour,
whilst the increased demand for novelties induced raisers
to work with even greater energy to provide new and
improved varieties. Exhibitions multiplied in all parts of
the United Kingdom, and thousands of blooms were annually
shown during the period when the Dahlia was at the zenith
of its popularity as an exhibition flower, this period extend-
ing from 1820 to 1860. The flowers that found favour
with growers during the greater part of this period showed
much diversity in form and colour, and were similar to the

12 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

decorative varieties that were brought into prominence
about 1870. They were the precursors of the type known
as the show Dahlia, and until 1830 the blooms were smaller
than those of the present day, and many of them had
florets that were long and pointed and more or less cupped.
After the next twenty years rapid progress was made in
the development of the Dahlia along the lines laid down
by the recognised authorities. The florets lost their points
and became smooth and rounded, and so regularly arranged
as to give the blooms an unbroken outline, which the
height of the crown and the refinement of the flower
materially increased. Concurrently with the development
of the show Dahlias the fancy varieties were evolved. The
difference between the two sections is merely a matter of
colour, the show flowers being self coloured or tipped
with a darker colour, while the fancies are striped, or flaked,
with a deeper colour on a light ground, or tipped with a
lighter colour.

During the period from 1840 to 1860, the show and
fancy Dahlias were supplemented by the small-flowered
varieties variously known as bouquet, lilliputian, and
pompon ; the last name being now generally recognised.
Their origin has long been a source of perplexity to those
who are interested in the historical aspect of the Dahlia,
and one may search in vain for direct evidence upon this
point. There is, however, no doubt that they were of
German origin, that they were raised in the district of
which Koestritz is the centre, and introduced to this country
in the middle of the nineteenth century.

From about 1860 the popularity of the Dahlia declined
at a rapid rate, and during the next ten years or so it was

PLATE II
FANCY DAHLIA— MRS. SAUNDERS

RESTORATION TO FAVOUR 15

under a cloud that gave rise to considerable apprehensions
with regard to its future in the minds of those who held the
flower in high estimation. Towards the end of this decade
the cloud was lifted by the resuscitation of the brilliantly-
coloured Dahlia coccinea, which nearly seventy years
previously had flowered in Eraser's nursery, and two other
single varieties, one known as Lutea, and having bright
yellow flowers, and the other as Paragon with maroon-
purple flowers margined with rose. These created much
interest, and as the result of the well-directed efforts of
raisers large numbers of beautiful single varieties were
distributed to cultivators.

Of still greater importance in relation to the restoration
of the Dahlia in popular favour was the introduction of
Dahlia Yuarezii, the first of the cactus Dahlias now so
highly esteemed by flower lovers. This created much
interest when first presented to public notice at one of the
meetings of the Royal Horticultural Society held in the
autumn of 1876, by the late Mr. W. H. Cullingford. This
Dahlia was received in the year 1872 by M. J. T. Van der
Berg of Juxphaar near Utrecht from a friend in Mexico.
The case in which it was sent to Holland contained various
kinds of bulbs, flower-roots, and seeds, and owing to the
length of time it was on the journey the contents were
received in an indifferent condition. The roots that were
not wholly decayed were taken care of, and from a small
tuber a growth was produced. Several plants were raised,
and during the following summer they were grown with
the other Dahlias in the open ground. When they came
into flower the distinct and elegant form and the brilliant
colour of the blooms at once attracted attention ; and

16 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

M. Van der Berg, who had sent roots to a French firm in
the autumn of 1873, distributed it in 1874, having pre-
viously named it Yuarezii in honour of the then President
of Mexico.

The cactus Dahlias have enjoyed a high degree of popu-
larity, and there is every anticipation that they will for many
years hence continue to increase in favour. The diversity
in the form and colour of the cactus varieties prepared the
flower-loving public for the new race of paeony-flowered
varieties, remarkable for the extravagant form and attractive
colours of their flowers. These are said to have been intro-
duced to this country in 1900, but it was not until the
autumn of 1905 that they were shown in London and at
several of the continental exhibitions by Messrs. Copyn and
Sons, by whom they were introduced to cultivation. They
originated from the intercrossing of single and cactus
varieties, and presumably those sorts remarkable for their
robust habit and the large size of their flowers.

Yet another type has to be mentioned in this brief his-
torical record, and that is the one known as the " collerette "
Dahlia. Originally introduced to cultivation in 1901, the
collerette varieties received but little attention from culti-
vators in this country until the season of 1910, notwith-
standing their usefulness in the garden. They originated
from two sports that made their appearance simultaneously
in 1899 on different plants growing in the municipal gar-
dens of the Pare de la Tete d'Or at Lyons. In due course
these sports were fixed and propagated, and in 1901 they
were distributed by Messrs. Rivoire & Son of Lyons under
the names of President Viger and Joseph Goujou.

With reference to the decorative varieties it must suffice

DECORATIVE VARIETIES 17

to say that they connect the past with the present, and that
they are both interesting and useful. The older varieties,
which take us back to the distant past when the show
flower was in the process of development, are of interest as
showing the type of flower that found favour before the
show Dahlia had assumed its present fame. The newer
decorative Dahlias include varieties raised in this country
and abroad, and they have been introduced to cultivation
from time to time during the past quarter of a century.
These latter differ materially in character and beauty from
the older varieties, and possess much greater value both for
exhibition and garden decoration. The best of them are
included in the selections given in Chapter VIII, and the
lists should be closely followed.

CHAPTER III
SHOW AND FANCY DAHLIAS

FOR purposes of exhibition Dahlias have been arranged in
seven classes or groups, namely, the show and fancy, cactus,
single, bouquet or pompon, paeony-flowered, collerette, and
decorative. For a considerable period the show and fancy
varieties were divided into two sections and shown in
distinct classes ; but they resembled each other so closely
that the National Dahlia Society decided to break down the
barrier between them and have them shown together in the
same classes. This is a great advantage, more especially to
the smaller growers, because many of the fancies originated
as sports from the show varieties, and now and again they
produce self-coloured flowers, which could not be included
in a collection of fancies, but may be shown in a stand of
mixed varieties.

The show Dahlia, as it is technically termed, com-
prises all self-coloured flowers, all shaded flowers, and all
flowers that have a pale ground colour, whether it be
blush, primrose, yellow or white, tipped with crimson,
mauve, maroon, purple or rose. The fancy Dahlia com-
prises all the flowers that have a blush, primrose, rose or
yellow ground flaked or freckled with crimson — maroon
and scarlet flowers that are tipped with blush white or
yellow, and yellow flowers tipped with white.

THE SHOW DAHLIA 19

In briefly tracing the development of the show Dahlia,
the oldest and historically the most important of the several
classes of Dahlias in cultivation, it may be of interest to
mention that during the first ten or twelve years of the
nineteenth century much attention was devoted to the
cultivation of Dahlias and the raising of new varieties by
growers in various parts of the Continent of Europe.
We know that during the first decade Dahlias had become
established at Erfurt, Leipzig, and Louvain, and that much
progress in their culture had been made in France, particu-
larly in the neighbourhood of Paris, and that, in the year
1814, both German and French growers were sending to this
country some of their own productions, which were the pre-
cursors of the show and fancy varieties. To M. Donckelaar
of the Louvain Botanic Garden belongs the honour of having
launched the Dahlia on the tide of time as a florists' flower,
and thereby provided for many generations of flower-lovers
an immense amount of interest and pleasure. M. Doncke-
laar turned his attention to Dahlias in 1812, and in that year
raised a considerable number of seedlings, but these all
produced single flowers. He continued his efforts to
obtain new forms, and in 1813 he succeeded in raising
several varieties with semi-double flowers. This success
stimulated him to further endeavours, and in 1814 he ob-
tained varieties with flowers that were quite double, and
some of these he sent to this country during the winter
of 1814-15. They at once attracted attention, and as
they became known they created much interest among the
amateurs, who added them to their gardens as soon as
circumstances would permit, and in many cases entered into
the interesting work of raising seedlings. Chief among the

20 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

cultivators in the early days who distinguished themselves
as raisers were Mr. J. Wells of Redhill and Mr. Douglas of
Putney Hill, the former being the first to raise a dwarf,
double Dahlia.

Good progress must have been made in the next few
years, for in 1826 the Royal Horticultural Society had in its
Chiswick gardens upwards of sixty double varieties. The
improvement in the form and size of the flowers and the
development of the varying shades of colour proceeded with
great rapidity until 1832, when a great advance was marked
by the introduction of Springfield Rival, a crimson self of
quite exceptional merit. During the next few years the
rate at which new varieties were introduced was very great,
for the Dahlia Register for 1836 contains fifty coloured
illustrations of the leading Dahlias, and also a list of 700
varieties from which the cultivator could select when
making additions to his collection. From 1836 to 1856
was a period of great activity among Dahlia growers and
raisers, and the improvements made in the flowers was so
great that but few varieties were shown more than four or
five years with the exception of Springfield Rival, which pos-
sessed merit of so high an order as to be able to hold its
own on the exhibition stage far beyond the average period.

In these days seedling Dahlias that were distinct and
highly meritorious were readily purchased by enterprising
nurserymen at prices that would be considered very high at
the present day; thus in 1834 the stock of Beauty of
Teffont, a light-coloured flower raised by a clergyman, was
sold for .£60. This was followed by Yellow Defiance, which
was purchased from the raiser for the sum of ^200. In the
next few years the varieties Alice, Beeswing, Cleopatra, and

THE FANCY DAHLIA 21

Shylock realised ^100 each, and the variety known as the
Marchioness of Ormonde £105. The sum of £105 was
paid also for a variety named Queen Victoria, but it did not
fulfil its promise, and with the disappointment it caused to
cultivators an end was put to the high prices paid for new
Dahlias.

The fancy Dahlia was later in making its appearance
than the show type, and for a considerable period subse-
quent thereto the flowers of the several varieties were much
inferior in form and finish to the finest of the show flowers.
But few of the fancies are included in the fifty coloured
illustrations of the leading Dahlias of the day that were
published in the Dahlia Register for 1836 and in the
nurserymen's lists, and in the selected lists of varieties that
were given the distinctive term of fancy was not used. In
the lists of Dahlias that were issued in 1845 one fancy
flower — Oakley's Surprise — had a place, but during the next
four years the section had increased considerably, for in one
of the lists that was published in 1849 there were twenty-
four fancy varieties. Sixteen years later the number of fancy
varieties catalogued was forty-one, and of these the greater
proportion had been raised in this country. During the
past twenty years but few new fancy flowers have been
introduced. This section, it should be mentioned, originated
on the Continent, and chief among the raisers who rendered
good service in the earliest stage of its development was
M. Lelieur of Sevres.

With regard to the characteristics of the show and fancy
varieties, of primary importance from the exhibition point of
view there is no room for doubt. George Glenny and other
authorities some seventy or eighty years ago laid down the

22 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

lines on which these varieties should be judged. It was
stipulated that show and fancy Dahlias should be circular
in form, the petals or florets rounded, the centre compact,
closed, and on a level with the shoulder of the bloom ; that
the florets should be stiff and smooth and the back ones
the largest, so that the whole of the flower may be seen to
advantage when viewed from the front. In judging stands
of these flowers due consideration was to be given to
variety, attractiveness of colour, uniformity in size, and
perfection of form in the individual blooms. These lines,
with but little modification, have been followed until the
present time at the exhibitions of the National Dahlia Society
and other societies that give special encouragement to
Dahlias. The Royal Horticultural Society suggests in its
" Rules for Judging " that in estimating the merits of the
show and fancy flowers, the blooms should be of good
outline, the florets rounded or fluted, of a shell shape,
centre of bloom well up or even, but close and not over
developed, colour bright and fresh, the back florets not
being faded.

The flowers of the show and fancy Dahlias have some-
times been described as lumpish and inelegant, and there
are those who regard the varieties as utterly unfit for any
purpose other than the production of specimen blooms
for exhibition. This is a mistake, and it has resulted in
many gardens being much less interesting and attractive
late in summer and early in autumn than they might be.
The flowers have certainly a formal appearance, but lumpish
and inelegant they are not, and those who have paid any
considerable degree of attention to Dahlias can hardly fail
to derive much pleasure from well-developed blooms so

DAHLIAS FOR EXHIBITION 23

symmetrical in outline and noble in their proportions as
the show Dahlias, more especially as they represent the
results of strenuous endeavour on the part of many genera-
tions of flower lovers. Show and fancy Dahlias are less
useful for the floral adornment of the house than are the
light and elegant blooms of the cactus and single flowered
varieties, but for bold decorations they are valuable, the
effects they produce being at once rich and distinct.

It cannot be too clearly stated, however, that when the
plants are grown in conditions most favourable to the pro-
duction of exhibition blooms of the largest size they have
masses of foliage, and the leaves completely hide the flowers,
whilst the flower stems are weak and the flowers drooping.
A less stimulating course of culture is necessary in order
that the growth may be of compact habit, and the blooms
borne on stiff, erect stems well above the foliage, where they
will develop the richest colours.

THIRTY SHOW DAHLIAS FOR EXHIBITION

Arthur Rawlings: Deep crimson. Of good depth and
outline.

Chieftain : Purple-lilac. Of fine form and distinct in
colour.

Colonist : Chocolate shading to fawn ; medium size.

Dr. Keynes : Bright buff suffused with red.

Duchess of York : Lemon-yellow margined with salmon-
pink.

Duke of Fife : Cardinal red ; blooms of great depth.

Florence Tranter: Blush white margined with rose-
purple.

24 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

George Rawlings : Deep maroon. A large flower with
fine outline.

Gracchus : Rich orange. The flowers have fine, broad
florets.

Harry Keith : Rose-purple. A large flower and constant
bloomer.

Henri Depresie : Orange-scarlet. Very constant.

James Cocker: Rich purple. Of large size and good
depth.

John Hickling : Bright yellow ; one of the best of its
colour.

John Walker : Pure white. A free blooming variety with
flowers of fine form.

/. T. West : Yellow tipped with purple ; a fine flower.

Maud Fellowes : White suffused with purple. The
centre of this flower is exceptionally good.

Merlin : Rich scarlet. Of medium size and fine form.

Mrs. C. Carrington ; Mauve-pink. A sport from Mrs.
Morgan.

Mrs. Gladstone : Light pink ; of exquisite colour and
form.

Mrs. Morgan : Light ground tinted with purple.

Mrs. W. Slack : Blush margined with purple.

Perfection : Pale buff. A large and finely-formed
flower.

R. T. Rawlings : Soft, bright yellow. Of medium size.

Tom Jones : A cream-coloured flower suffused and edged
with mauve.

T. W. Girdlestone: Bright rich purple. A large and
effective flower.

/. T. Saltmarsh : Yellow tipped with red. Very constant.

PLATE III
CACTUS DAHLIA— CONQUEROR

DAHLIAS FOR EXHIBITION 27

Willie Garrett : Cardinal red, of medium size and fine
form.

Warrior : Brilliant scarlet. Large and distinct.
William Powell : Primrose-yellow. Large and fine form.
William Rawlings : Crimson purple. Very constant.

FIFTEEN FANCY DAHLIAS FOR EXHIBITION

Comedian : Orange-yellow striped with crimson.

Dorothy : Fawn colour striped and splashed with
maroon.

Emin Pacha : Yellow freckled and striped with
crimson.

Goldsmith : Yellow striped and edged with crimson.

Heather Bell : Bright scarlet tipped with white.

Henry Clark : A light shade of lilac with yellow
blotches.

John Britton : Rose-lilac striped with crimson ; con-
stant.

Mabel : Deep lilac striped with crimson.

Matthew Campbell : Buff striped and flaked with crimson.

Miss Browning : Bright yellow tipped with white.

Mrs. Saunders (see Plate II) : Rich yellow with white
tips.

Rev. J. M. B. Camm : Bright yellow striped with scarlet.

S. Mortimer : Deep rose flaked and striped with crimson.

Sunset : Rich yellow flaked and very showy.

William Pemberton : Bright orange flaked and striped
with deep scarlet.

28 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

TWELVE SHOW VARIETIES FOR
GARDEN DECORATION

David Johnson : A shade of fawn suffused with rose.
Flowers of medium size.

Edward Mawley : Deep crimson. Flowers borne on
long and erect stems.

Gracchus.

John Bennett : Rich yellow edged with scarlet.

John Walker.

Merlin.

Mrs. J. R. Jeffard : Rich yellow. The flowers are very
large.

Perfection.

Queen of the Belgians : Cream- white suffused with pink.

R. T. Rawlings.

Spitfire: Brilliant scarlet. Flowers of medium size.

Tom Jones.

SIX FANCY VARIETIES FOR GARDEN
DECORATION

Duchess of Albany : Orange-yellow striped and flaked
with crimson.

Gaiety : Yellow striped with red and having white tips.

Mrs. N. Halls : Scarlet with white tips.

Mrs. Reggie Green : White flaked and striped with rose-
purple.

Mrs. Saunders.

Prince Henry : Rose-lilac with purple markings.

CHAPTER IV
CACTUS DAHLIAS

AT the very time of the revival of the single Dahlias as
subjects of popular interest there made its appearance in
the floral world a new type which has become known as
the cactus Dahlia. Its introduction proved an event of
much importance, for as the precursor of large numbers
of distinct and beautiful varieties it has contributed in no
small degree to the revival of the interest in Dahlias both in
relation to their value for exhibition and usefulness in the
garden. Not less interesting is the fact that the descendants
of Dahlia Yuarezii, the type of the cactus Dahlia, have
effected a change in the views of raisers and growers on
the points of perfection in Dahlias that is little short of
marvellous. At first this epoch-making Dahlia was not
accepted with favour by those florists who had for a long
series of years devoted much of their time to the develop-
ment of the blooms of the Dahlia on more or less formal
lines. That they should have looked somewhat askance
at the new comer is not surprising, for its flowers varied
materially from the ideals for which raisers had long been
working. Except in brilliancy of colouring the blooms did
not possess one of the points that had long been regarded

as essential properties of a show Dahlia, They were of

39

30 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

large size, but the florets, instead of being cupped, rounded
at the tips, and arranged with mathematical precision, were
long, pointed, and with a graceful curve. In general char-
acter the blooms of D. Yuarezii had a rather close resem-
blance to a variety known as Brown's Glowworm, which
was figured in the Dahlia Register in 1836 when it was
enjoying a high degree of popularity. This point is of
interest as a proof that our gardens might have been en-
riched with cactus Dahlias some forty or fifty years earlier
than was the case had there been a demand for flowers of
this type.

If D. Yuarezii did not at first appeal to the florists its
blooms were in full accord with the public taste, which had
for some years previously evinced an appreciation for
flowers that possessed a sufficient degree of lightness to
suggest a touch of nature rather than the hand of man. It
accordingly attained popularity with surprising rapidity, and
the raisers engaged with much zeal in the task of producing
new varieties of a similar type.

It was on the occasion of a fruit show held at the
Alexandra Palace, Muswell Hill, on September 3, 1880,
that D. Yuarezii was first presented to the public notice in
this country. The exhibitor was Mr. Henry Cannell,
V.M.H., of Swanley, and the large, elegant, and brilliantly
coloured flowers at once attracted the attention of visitors.
Shortly afterwards Mr. Cannell exhibited a stand of blooms
at a meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society held at
South Kensington, where also the new Dahlia created much
interest. As already stated in a previous chapter, M. J. T.
Van der Berg of Juxphaar near Utrecht received in 1872
from a friend in Mexico a case containing bulbs, tubers, and

NEW VARIETIES 31

seeds, and from one of the tubers this Dahlia was raised. It
will thus be seen that a period of eight years elapsed between
its introduction to Europe and the appearance of blooms at
a public exhibition in this country. To the late Mr. W. H.
Cullingford of Kensington belongs the credit of introducing
the cactus Dahlia to this country. He met with it in one
of the nurseries near Haarlem, and attracted by the distinct
form and bright colouring of the flowers, he purchased
plants and grew them for one or two years without being
aware of the rarity of the type. He eventually gave some
plants to Mr. Cannell, who, recognising the potentialities of
the flower, cultivated it well and brought it into public
notice.

The readiness with which the raisers turned their atten-
tion to the production of varieties of D. Yuarezii is of
interest as evidence that they had recognised the trend of
public taste and were anxious to meet the varying require-
ments consequent on the changes in the world of flori-
culture. As the result of their activities numbers of new
varieties were soon forthcoming, and by 1891 they had so
greatly increased that the National Dahlia Society found
it necessary to provide a class specially for them in the
schedule of its exhibition for that year. By this time two
sports from D. Yuarezii had been fixed and distributed.
These were known as Beauty of Arundel (white) and
Professor Baldwin (rose-purple).

In the production of new cactus Dahlias raisers made at
the commencement the same mistakes as raisers of other
flowers : they concentrated their efforts upon the develop-
ment of the individual blooms instead of improving both
the plant and its flowers. In following the course of pro-

32 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

cedure on which they entered they achieved much success.
They remodelled the blooms on lines that rendered them
more graceful and effective than were those of the type,
they greatly increased their size, and developed a range of
colouring so wide as to extend from pure white to brilliant
scarlet and the richest shades of crimson, purple, rose, and
yellow. The success that has been achieved in the develop-
ment of the individual bloom during the progress of im-
provement is evident at the autumn shows, and the glorious
displays of highly refined cactus flowers in their rich and
diversified colours have done much to sustain the interest
in the Dahlia, and have contributed materially to the popu-
larity of the September exhibitions.

Recognising the delightful effects produced at the autumn
exhibitions by the splendidly developed blooms of the cactus
Dahlias, it is not difficult to imagine how immensely
would the flower garden have gained had a race of cactus
varieties suitable for garden decoration been cultivated con-
currently with the development of varieties remarkable for
the large size and fine form of the individual blooms. But
the blooms were considered of such paramount importance
that but little consideration was given for many years by
owners of gardens to the habits of varieties or their capaci-
ties for flower production. When Dahlias are required for
contributing to the attractions of the garden the character-
istics of the plants should have the first consideration. In
the selection of Dahlias, as of roses and some other classes
of flowers, it is essential to differentiate between the varieties
specially adapted for exhibition and those most suitable for
the production of colour effects in the garden, and to select
varieties that are the best adapted for the purpose for which

POMPON CACTUS 33

they are required. If blooms are wanted for competitive
purposes, then make selections of varieties from the winning
stands at the exhibitions ; but when Dahlias for garden de-
coration are required, take care to visit gardens and
nurseries where these flowers are largely grown, and make
note of varieties that are compact in growth and that carry
their blooms well above the leaves.

Raisers of cactus Dahlias are at last devoting attention to
the production of varieties especially adapted to garden
decoration, and they have already introduced a considerable
number that possess much merit. The attributes of a good
cactus Dahlia for the garden are a moderately vigorous
growth, a compact habit, and well-formed, attractively-
coloured flowers borne on stems of sufficient length and
rigidity to carry them well above the leaves, that they may
be readily seen and produce the best effect. The best size
for the flower of a garden cactus Dahlia is a matter of taste,
but those rather above medium size are in some respects
preferable, because of their being for the most part pro-
portionate to the strength of the stems.

Only a decade or so ago varieties of moderate height
and bearing comparatively small flowers began to make
their appearance in the seed beds of raisers engaged in
the improvement of the cactus Dahlia. The best of these
have from time to time been selected with a view to fix-
ing these characteristics, and the number in commerce is
considerable. They are known as " pompon cactus " (see
Plate IV), and form a group that is useful for garden
decoration, and even more valuable for the supply of
flowers for floral arrangements. The blooms are similar in
form and colour to those belonging to the ordinary varieties

C

34 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

and about half the size, thus being most suitable for
decorative purposes in a cut state.

The best place for the cactus Dahlias in the garden
must be determined by the varieties selected and the
purpose for which they are intended. If the object is to
beautify the garden those varieties only which are recom-
mended for that purpose should be selected, and in the
majority of cases the preferable course will be to plant
them in mixed borders. In this case there will be an
abundance of other flowers until the Dahlias come into
bloom, and from the time they reach this stage until the
frost causes a check to tender vegetation they will contribute
liberally to the floral display. In spacious borders they may
be arranged in triplets to form bold groups, each group con-
sisting of one variety, but in those of small size it is best to
plant them singly. Arranged in borders wholly devoted to
them, these garden cactus Dahlias are both attractive and
interesting, provided due consideration is given to the height
of the plants and the colours of the flowers. Medium-sized
beds on the lawn are very attractive when filled with one
variety, and that of moderate height and free in flowering.

Dahlias required for the production of blooms for
exhibitions should be given a position in the kitchen
garden or other out-of-the-way place where they will not
be conspicuous from the house or the principal paths in
the pleasure grounds, as breadths of Dahlias are not par-
ticularly attractive when grown in conditions most favour-
able to the full development of exhibition blooms. The
preparation of the soil and the distance at which the plants
are arranged must be in accordance with the directions
that are given in the chapters devoted to these details.

CACTUS VARIETIES 35

THIRTY-SIX CACTUS VARIETIES FOR
EXHIBITION

Advance : Bright scarlet. Flowers very large.

Brigadier : Bright crimson.

C. E. Wilkins : Rich salmon-pink with yellow centre.

Conqueror (see Plate III) : Rich crimson ; large and
effective.

Dolly : Rich scarlet with pure white tips.

Dr. G. G. Gray : Bright crimson-scarlet. The florets
are very narrow.

Dr. Roy Appleton : Lemon-yellow suffused with salmon.

Edith Carter : Rich yellow, passing to bright rose-red on
the upper half of the florets.

Excelsior : Deep maroon. A refined flower.

Glory of Wilts : Bright yellow. A large, well-formed flower.

Frederick Wenham : A shade of fawn tinted with pink.
This flower has very long florets.

Harold Pearman : Rich yellow ; the blooms of large
size and freely produced.

H. L. Brousson : White suffused with rose. The flower
is of extra good form.

H. H. Thomas : Rich crimson. Very large and effective.

lolanthe : Coral-red tipped with golden-yellow. Dis-
tinct in colour and high in quality.

Ivernia : Salmon suffused with fawn and with lighter
centre. Very large.

/. B. Riding : Orange with yellow at base of florets.

John Riding : Bright red with long incurving florets.

Lffda : Deep rose colour with light centre-segments
finely incurved.

36 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Miss Stredwick: The florets are deep pink at the base
and soft yellow at tip.

Mrs. Alfred Dyer : Lemon-yellow tinted with rose-pink.
j/M rs. Douglas Fleming : White. A large and elegant flower.

Mrs. Charles Wyatt : White. A large flower of fine form.

Mrs. Macmillan : Bright pink with centre of cream white.

Mrs. Randle (see Frontispiece) : Rich rose-pink. Flowers
large and elegant.

Nantwich : Pale yellow, occasionally marked with scarlet.

Nelson : Rich crimson suffused with magenta. Large,
and of fine form.

New York : Bronze suffused with salmon.

Pegasus : Bright rose striped and spotted with crimson.

Red Admiral: Brilliant scarlet. Of large size and
excellent form.

Rev. Arthur Bridges : Clear yellow suffused and tipped
with pink.

Rev. T. W. Jamieson : Yellow passing to lilac-rose.

Ruby Grinsted: A rose-fawn flower with pale yellow centre.

Satisfaction : White suffused with soft pink. Finely
incurved.

Snowdon : Pure white. A large flower. Habit erect.

Victory : Coral-red. A large, full, and graceful flower.

TWELVE CACTUS DAHLIAS FOR THE
GARDEN

Amos Perry : Rich crimson.
Avoca : Rose-crimson shaded with scarlet.
Clarisse : Orange-scarlet shaded with cerise.
Duchess of Sutherland : Blush pink.

VARIETIES FOR GARDEN 37

Eclaire : Rich scarlet.

Erecta : Bright pink.

Hon. Mrs. Greville : Orange-yellow tinted with salmon.

Mauve Queen : Bright mauve.

Mrs. J. H. Usmar : Deep orange shaded with coral-pink.

Primrose Queen : Primrose-yellow.

Sweetbriar : Rose-pink.

White Ensign : Pure white.

TWELVE POMPON CACTUS DAHLIAS
FOR EXHIBITION

Argus: Crimson-lake.
Dandy : Primrose suffused with salmon.
Garibaldi : Bright scarlet.
Goldfinch (see Plate IV) : Bright yellow.
Mary : White edged with crimson,
Martha : Orange-red.
Minima : Purple-crimson.
Modesty (see Plate IV) : Rose-pink.
Nain : Light orange, deeper in centre.
Snowbird : White (finely incurved).
Titus : Lemon-yellow, shading to buff and tipped with
white.

William Marshall : Maroon-red.

TWELVE POMPON CACTUS DAHLIAS
FOR THE GARDEN

Cheerful : Pink with light centre.
Coronation : Bright scarlet.
Grade : Scarlet, white, and yellow.

3.8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Mary.

Mignon : Bright pink.

Minima.

Nain.

Purple Gem : Deep purple.

Sovereign : Golden-yellow.

Sweet : Salmon tipped with white.

Tomtit : Mauve pink (very distinct).

William Marshall.

TWELVE CACTUS SINGLE DAHLIAS

Abbotsford : Orange-scarlet.

Amy Robsart : Rich scarlet. Florets elegantly curved.

Fair Maid : Blush white. Of medium size and fine
form.

Hereward : Yellow flaked and striped with scarlet.

Ivanhoe : Rose with crimson zone ; very pleasing.

Minna: Bronze-yellow suffused with carmine at the
margin.

Meg Merrilees : Bright yellow. Florets large and
twisted.

Queen Mary : White with pale yellow zone ; elegant.

Rob Roy : Deep yellow striped and splashed with
scarlet.

Rose Bradwardine : Yellow shaded with bronze and
having red tips.

Sir Walter Rose : Pink with orange base ; gracefully
curved.

Talisman : Deep crimson. Finely incurved.

CHAPTER V
SINGLE DAHLIAS

FOR some seventy years after the introduction of the Dahlia
into European gardens raisers in Great Britain as in other
countries devoted their attention exclusively to the pro-
duction of varieties with double flowers, and all seedlings
which failed to produce flowers of this type were destroyed.
In this long period the double flowers had, by the per-
severance of the florists and a close adherence to the
properties formulated by the leading authorities, been
brought to a high degree of perfection. They had reached
a stage of development when it was extremely difficult to
obtain such improvements as would attract the attention of
the general body of cultivators. Improvements continued
to be made, but they were such as to interest the exhibitors
rather than the cultivators who grew Dahlias simply for the
purpose of beautifying their gardens, and in the absence of
startling novelties Dahlias steadily declined in public favour.
Something quite new was required to bring about a revival
of interest. It is therefore a matter of importance to
recall the fact that when the popularity of the Dahlia had
well-nigh reached its lowest ebb, and those who were
specially interested in the flower were regarding its future
with much anxiety, there reappeared the original Dahlia of
1789. This simple Mexican flower with its small bright

40 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

scarlet blooms, known as the single Dahlia, lighted up as it
were the darkness that prevailed among the fanciers, and-
prepared the way for the cactus and other types. It rapidly
acquired popularity as though its charms had been perceived
for the first time, and the interest created by its reintro-
duction to public notice had the effect of bringing two
other single Dahlias into prominence that had long remained
in the cold shade of neglect.

The reintroduction of the single variety known as
coccinea was due to the late Mr. Alfred Salter, who, in the
autumn of 1874, exhibited blooms at one of the Royal
Horticultural Society's meetings at South Kensington.
These flowers created much interest, and a demand rapidly
urose for varieties with single flowers, so that within a com-
paratively short period two others were brought out from
the obscurity in which they had so long been hidden, and
placed within the reach of cultivators. These varieties were
known as Lutea and Paragon ; they possessed much merit,
although not comparable with the excellent varieties of
more recent introduction. Lutea had, as its name indicates,
yellow flowers, and it was probably a survival from the
earlier days of the cultivated Dahlia, but there is no trust-
worthy information upon this point. Paragon was a specially
attractive variety ; the blooms were rather large, of good
form, and of a rich maroon colour with a broad purple
margin to the florets. This variety was introduced to
cultivation about the year 1830, and it was described
in a catalogue of Dahlias issued by Appleby, a Doncaster
florist, in 1834. It is said to have been found in a
botanic garden, but whether this was the case or not,
it is evident that it was valued by some cultivators for a

PLATE IV
POMPON CACTUS DAHLIAS

MODESTY

GOLDFINCH

ml.

IMPROVEMENTS 43

considerable period after the double Dahlias had practically
obtained undisputed sway.

The two varieties last named were soon followed by
other single Dahlias, for raisers were quick to recognise the
trend of public taste in favour of single flowers, and to take
the steps necessary to meet the demand for them. Crosses
were effected between D. coccinea and the two varieties re-
introduced with it, and possibly between this trio and D.
Merckii, which under the name of D. glabrata was introduced
from Mexico in 1840, and new varieties with well formed
and attractively coloured flowers were introduced. In a
short time cultivators found to their hand a consider-
able number of single Dahlias of great excellence, and
with these there were some that, owing to their coarse
habit and large, floppy flowers, were of but little value.
Not all the raisers in the earlier days of the single Dahlia
were equally careful in making selections from their seed
beds, and the distribution of varieties that were not satis-
factory had the effect of giving a check to their popularity.
Happily this practice, which obtained only among a few,
was soon abandoned, and for many years the greatest
care has been taken to select for distribution none but
those that show a decided improvement in one or more
respects upon those of a similar character or colour already
in cultivation. As a consequence the varieties in commerce
are of so high an order of merit that the chief difficulty of
the inexperienced in making a selection is to obtain a
proper representation of the varied colours which the
single Dahlias afford.

So far the reference to single Dahlias has been limited
to varieties that have flowers of medium size, circular in

44 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

outline, and that conform in all respects to the requirements
of the florists. In addition to these, which are by far the
most valuable both for the garden and exhibition, there are
two other types that are regarded with much favour by
some cultivators and are useful for special purposes. The
first of these types, known as the Tom Thumb Single, was
introduced about 1880 by the late Mr. Girdlestone, who for
some years was the Honorary Secretary and subsequently
President of the National Dahlia Society. The plants of this
type attain a height of about 18 inches, bloom freely, and
the flowers afford a wide range of colour. Their chief
value is for small beds and for planting along the front of
borders. The other type, known as the Single Cactus, is
distinguished by the flowers having florets that are twisted
and curled in much the same way as those of the cactus
Dahlia. This type originated with the late Mr. E. J. Lowe,
F.R.S., and was distributed in 1896. The plants are dwarf,
compact in growth, and free in blooming, and the flowers
in their diversity of colour are specially useful, by reason of
their lightness, for floral arrangements.

With reference to the desirable characteristics of single
Dahlias of the ordinary type, it may be pointed out that
varieties producing blooms of medium size should invariably
be selected. In form the flowers should be circular and
even in outline ; the florets perfectly flat and even, neatly
and closely fitting or overlapping and slightly recurved, and
the flower stems should be stiff and erect. Flowers of this
type are not only more refined and pleasing, but they retain
their freshness for a greater length of time than do those in
which the florets are widely separated.

Single Dahlias are highly effective in the garden when

ON MANURING 45

placed in conditions favourable to a healthy growth, in
which a proper balance is maintained between the develop-
ment of flowers and foliage. The enrichment of the soil
with large quantities of farmyard or stable manure, as
in the preparation of beds for cactus, fancy, and show
varieties to be grown for the production of blooms for
exhibition, is unnecessary and undesirable. As in the case
of the other sections when grown for garden decoration,
the soil should receive only a moderate dressing of well-
decayed manure in the course of the winter and be then
deeply dug, care being taken to well mix the manure with
the soil in the process. This much will be necessary for
maintaining a moderately vigorous growth throughout the
season, but an excess of manure would encourage undue
vigour at the expense of flower-production. It is advisable
that strong plants well established in 5-inch or 6-inch pots
be selected for planting because of their coming into bloom
early and thus prolonging the flowering season.

Complaints are sometimes made of the fleeting character
of the flowers of the single varieties. It must be admitted
that they do not retain their freshness for so long a period
as the double forms, but they are not so ephemeral as is
generally supposed to be the case. The length of time that
the flowers when cut will retain their freshness is much a
matter of treatment. They are too often cut when fully
developed or after having been subjected to several hours'
sunshine, and they collapse within a comparatively short
period of their being arranged in the vases or other re-
ceptacles. The proper course is to cut the flowers quite
early in the day, and before they are fully open, and to
place the ends of the stalks in water immediately they are.

46 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

severed from the plant. If this is done the flowers will
remain in good condition for a considerable period.

Single Dahlias produce seed freely, and the development
and ripening of seed imposes a very heavy strain upon the
plants. It is essential, therefore, to pick off the faded flowers
at frequent intervals, say once a week, before the seeds have
time to form.

BEST EIGHTEEN SINGLE DAHLIAS FOR
EXHIBITION

Amy : Terra-cotta. Of medium size and very refined.

Betty : Rose-lilac with crimson zone round the disc.

Butterfly : White with primrose zone.

Cardinal (see Plate V) : Cardinal red with yellow zone.

Columbine : Rich rose colour tinted with orange at the
base of florets.

Darkness : Maroon-crimson ; very effective.

Duke of York : Brilliant orange-scarlet with golden zone.

Eclipse : Bright rose colour with maroon zone.

Kitty : Rosy-mauve with dark zone. Very distinct.

Leslie Scale : Pale lilac with crimson zone.

Miss Morland : Crimson-scarlet.

Miss Roberts : Clear yellow. Of medium size and fine
outline.

Mrs. Joynson Hicks (see Plate V) : Pale buff with
crimson zone.

Owen Thomas : Rich scarlet tipped with yellow ; very
effective.

Peggy: Orange-yellow with rose tips and rose-crimson
base,

DWARF DAHLIAS 47

Polly Eccles : Fawn colour with red zone ; very free.
Princess of Wales : Rich pink.

Rosebank : Brilliant scarlet. Of medium size and free
blooming habit.

TWELVE SINGLE DAHLIAS FOR GARDEN
DECORATION

Cardinal.

Columbine.

Ensign : Crimson-scarlet ; free and effective.

Fugi San : Orange-yellow with crimson zone.

Kitty.

Leslie Seale.

Miss Morland.

Miss Roberts.

Mrs. Joynson Hicks.

Morning Glow : Rich amber with scarlet zone.

Owen Thomas.

Snowdrop : Pure white. Of medium size and fine form,

SIX SINGLE "TOM THUMB" DAHLIAS
FOR SMALL BEDS

Bantam : Scarlet ; height 1 2 inches.

Booties : Deep red ; 16 inches.

Golden Fairy : Golden-yellow ; 14 inches.

Hermione : Pure white ; 12 inches.

Miss Grace : Light orange ; 14 inches.

Tom Tit : Orange-scarlet with yellow zone ; 18 inches.

CHAPTER VI
POMPON OR BOUQUET VARIETIES

THE distinct and highly attractive pompon or bouquet
varieties form a group of much value in the production of
colour effects in the garden and for yielding abundant
supplies of flowers for home decorations. Notwithstanding
their usefulness they have not at any time evoked much
enthusiasm among Dahlia exhibitors. They have been
highly appreciated by those who do not base their estimates
of the merits of flowers upon their size alone, but they have
not given rise to the excitement characteristic of the periods
in which the show and cactus varieties were undergoing
the earlier stages of their development.

The record of the origin of these varieties is not suffi-
ciently clear to admit of a definite opinion being formed as
to the raiser with whom they originated or the year in
which they were introduced to this country. That Germany
was the country of their origin there can be *io doubt ; and
it may be safely assumed that they were raised at Koestritz,
which for a long period subsequent to 1824 was an im-
portant centre of Dahlia culture. The earlier varieties
were probably introduced to British gardens towards the
end of the first half of the nineteenth century ; but they
do not appear to have met with much favour from the

general body of cultivators until they had been in cultiva-

48

POMPONS RECOGNISED 49

tion here for several years. It is not surprising this should
have been the case, for both raisers and growers were then
so unremitting in their attentions to the individual bloom as
to regard the plant as of quite secondary importance. The
pompons as originally introduced were comparatively neat
in growth and free in flowering, but the individual blooms
were very different to those with which present-day growers
are familiar, and were certainly not specially attractive.
Slow in attaining popularity, they did not make their appear-
ance very quickly at the exhibitions. The schedule of the
first National Dahlia Show, which was held in St. James's
Hall, London, in 1859, did not contain a single class
specially provided for them, and during the ten years
(1851-59) over which the work of the National Floricultural
Society extended no award was made to a pompon
Dahlia.

It was not, indeed, until the National Dahlia Society in
1871 included the pompons in its schedule that they were
recognised as florists' flowers, and worthy of being associated
with the other sections at the exhibitions. This recognition
gave a great stimulus to their culture and to the raising of
varieties. This inclusion in the scheme of the leading Dahlia
shows was a distinct advantage, inasmuch as the pompon
flowers were staged with some length of stem, and thus they
helped to relieve the flatness characteristic of exhibitions
where the blooms are shown close down upon sloping boards.
From this period new flowers were multiplied at a rapid rate,
the principal raisers being John Keynes of Salisbury and
Charles Turner of Slough. Immense improvements in the
form and colour of the flowers were quickly effected. The
habit of the plants was improved, and the usefulness of the

D

50 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

section in the garden thereby enhanced. Unfortunately the
raisers appear to have taken too narrow a view of the possi-
bilities of the bloom in relation to form, and modelled it on
the same lines as the show Dahlia. They have succeeded
in raising varieties with blooms of exquisite shape, but too
formal to be readily accepted by the great flower-loving
public as suitable for floral arrangements. The lines
originally laid down have been followed until the present
time, and as a consequence the flowers possess a degree
of refinement beyond which it does not appear possible
to go, as may be seen in the charming variety Florence.
The success achieved in the development of the pompon
Dahlia in accordance with the florist's ideal, has been little
short of marvellous ; but in testifying to the perseverance
and skill evinced in the attainment of the ideal, it is not
difficult to realise how valuable would have been a race of
varieties bearing blooms of a type similar to those of the
variety known as White Aster, which is so much appreci-
ated for floral arrangements. We may yet have such
flowers in a diversity of colouring, for raisers and growers
are no longer content to blindly follow the traditions of
past generations.

It has already been intimated that the pompon Dahlias
are highly meritorious as aids in beautifying the flower
garden during a considerable period in each year, and it
now remains to be said that they should be fully utilised.
They range in height from 2^ to 3^ feet, but in soil that
has not been too liberally enriched with manure the
majority of the varieties grow to a height of three feet, form
neat bushes, and produce a profusion of flowers extending
over a period of eight or ten weeks, according to the

PLANTING POMPONS 51

strength of the plants when put out, and the character of the
season. Strong plants that have been grown on in 5-inch
pots will come into bloom two or three weeks in advance
of those which are kept throughout in 3-inch pots, and
there will be much the same difference in the time of
flowering between plants growing in moderately rich and
heavily manured soils. They are highly effective grown
in beds in open positions, and planted about 30 inches
apart ; but they probably appear to the greatest advantage
when judiciously associated with hardy and other plants
in the mixed border. In borders they may be arranged in
groups of three plants of one variety or singly. The
groups and plants should be from 7 to 10 feet apart as
may be preferred, and so arranged they are of immense
value for maintaining the attractions of borders after the
hardy plants flowering early in the summer have lost much
of their beauty.

Although not largely grown by amateurs with gardens of
comparatively small size, this type of Dahlia is especially
adapted to their requirements. Dwarf in growth and free in
flowering, the plants thrive in the conditions that obtain in
and near towns, and it is surprising that amateurs who are
interested in Dahlias, but from an insufficiency of space
are unable to cultivate the show and cactus varieties with
success, do not grow and show the pompons.

There is no occasion, whether in town or country, to
make strenuous endeavour to obtain blooms of the largest
possible size. For a considerable period this was done, and
blooms were sometimes staged that suggested show blooms
grown in ordinary conditions ; but the practice has changed,
and perfection of form and proper development of colour

52 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

are the chief points in determining the relative merits of the
pompon flowers. .-

EIGHTEEN POMPON DAHLIAS FOR EXHIBI-
TION AND GARDEN DECORATION

Adelaide : Blush margined with rose. Very distinct.

Clarence : Maroon-crimson. A small flower, of fine form.

Cyril : Rich crimson. Free and very distinct.

Daisy : Amber suffused with salmon.

Douglas : Maroon-crimson.

Edith Bryant (see Plate VI) : Soft yellow edged with
crimson. Very attractive.

Florence : Lilac. A very small flower of fine form.

Glow : Rich coral-red, distinct and effective.

Ideal (see Plate VI) : Bright yellow. Small deep
flowers.

Kate Greenaway : Amber with deep red zone.

Mars: Bright scarlet. Flower of medium size and
good form.

Little Donald : Rich crimson. Small and of fine shape.

Montague Wotten : White edged with crimson lake ;
very pleasing.

Nellie Broomhead (see Plate VI) : Richly suffused mauve
on a light ground.

Nerissa : Soft silvery-rose. Very distinct and good.

Queen of Whites : Pure white.

Selma : Buff with shading of deeper tint.

Tommy Keith : Cardinal red tipped with white.

CHAPTER VII
P^ONY-FLOWERED DAHLIAS

OWING to the fact that Dahlias of this type produce
flowers of the largest size with irregularly formed and
loosely arranged florets, and rich and varied colouring with
bright yellow centres characteristic of herbaceous paeonies,
they have become known as " paeony flowered." A more
appropriate name could not well have been chosen for them,
for to those who are acquainted with the herbaceous paeony
in its varied forms it clearly expresses the predominating
features of the flowers, and it has also the merit of being
short and easily remembered. The flowers of the numerous
varieties now in cultivation exhibit a remarkable diversity in
form. Many of them have florets that are gracefully curled,
some possess florets that not only vary in shape but also in
size, and all are more or less beautiful, and make a strong
appeal to those who specially appreciate flowers that
suggest the hand of nature rather than of man in their
making.

Introduced by Messrs. Copyn & Son of Groenekan, the
paeony-flowered Dahlias were presented to public notice at
the exhibitions held in London and on the Continent during
the autumn of 1905, and their quaint and fantastic forms
secured for them a large share of attention. At Paris,
Diisseldorf, and elsewhere on the Continent they received

53

54 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

numerous awards, but in London opinions were divided as
to their merits, and of those who first saw them but few
were impressed in their favour. Since their first appearance
in this country they have been largely shown by English
growers in a manner that has brought into prominence
their distinctive characteristics, and they have attained to
a high degree of popularity. Especially are they regarded
with much favour by those who are responsible for the
management of public parks and large private gardens, in
which, by reason of their bold habit and attractive flowers,
they are of much value.

With greater staying powers when cut, the flowers
would be most useful for bold decorations in the house, and
it is much to be desired that raisers will make strong efforts
to improve them in this respect. Individually the blooms,
notwithstanding their large size, are right and elegant, and
the pure whites, soft yellows, bright pinks, and brilliant reds
can be readily arranged to form the most tasteful combina-
tions ; but it is tantalising to find them drooping and pre-
senting an exhausted appearance before the close of the
festivities or the exhibition as the case may be. An increase
in the substance of the florets would greatly improve
matters, but even at the present the staying powers of the
blooms could be easily increased by cultivators and those
who use the flowers for decorations. Instead of cutting
them when fully developed, and it may be after they
have been exposed to brilliant sunshine for some time and
carried in the hand or basket until sufficient have been
obtained, the following method of procedure should be
adopted. Cut the flowers quite early in the morning, when
on the point of expanding, and have at hand a small pail or

PLATE V
SINGLE DAHLIAS

MRS. JOYNSON HICKS

CARDINAL

ARRANGEMENT IN GARDEN 57

other vessel partly filled with water ; in this put the stalk
of each flower immediately it is cut. When this is done
the stems immediately become charged with water, and the
flowers open gradually, without having appreciably suffered
from the change involved in detaching them from the
plants. It is also important to remember that flowers pro-
duced by plants growing in soil that has been only mode-
rately enriched with manure will retain their freshness when
cut for a longer period than those obtained from beds or
borders that have been heavily manured.

For beautifying the garden the usefulness of the paeony-
flowered Dahlias is generally admitted, and the question that
has to be considered is really their suitability for various
gardens and positions. Their robust habit renders them
of more value for large gardens than for those of modest
dimensions, but there is some diversity in the habit of the
varieties, and there need be no difficulty in making selections
suitable for both large and small gardens and for different
positions in either. Improvements have been effected since
the earlier introductions, not only in the form and colour
of the flowers but also in the habit of the plants. English
growers quickly recognised the desirability of a reduction
in the height of growth, and varieties have been introduced
that do not exceed 3 feet. Some of the varieties attain
a height of 6, 7, or 8 feet, and these are best suited for
associating with tall-growing hardy and other plants in
spacious borders. They may be arranged with the plants
or used for forming a background to them. In large, open
spaces the tall growers are singularly effective in beds of the
size equivalent to 10 or n feet in diameter, but it is
necessary to remember that if the position is much exposed

58 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

there is some risk of injury to the plants from westerly
gales. Varieties ranging from 4 to 6 feet in height are
the most suitable for beds in large gardens, and for gardens
of medium and small dimensions plants from 3 to 5 feet
are preferable for both beds and borders. As some of
the most attractive varieties exceed that height, difficulty
will be experienced in excluding them from selections, and
therefore it will be well to bear in mind that the tallest
varieties should in such cases be utilised in furnishing
borders. From 3 to 4 feet will be a good distance
to allow the plants when grown in beds and borders wholly
devoted to them, the exact distance being determined by
the height of the varieties and the character of the soil.
In the mixed border from 8 to 10 feet will be a good
distance at which to put them apart, it not being advisable
to allow them to greatly predominate over the other kinds.

As in the case of other classes of Dahlias grown for the
production of colour effects in the garden, it is essential
that the soil be not heavily manured, for an excess of
plant food promotes a stout, soft, and leafy growth but
few flowers, and these flowers of so large a size that the
stems are unequal to the task of carrying them above
the leaves. In the case of soils that are rich from heavy
dressings of manure applied in the previous year, a dressing
of newly-slaked lime will suffice, the quantity to apply being
as much as will whiten the surface. If the soil is only
moderately rich, dress it with sufficient decomposed farm-
yard manure to form a layer about 3 inches in thickness.
Should it be more or less impoverished or light and sandy,
about double the quantity may be used, the object in
modifying the manurial applications according to the

VARIETIES FOR EXHIBITION 59

character of the soil being to supply the plants with just
sufficient food to enable them to,, make a moderately vigor-
ous growth throughout the season and no more.

TWELVE P>EONY-FLOWERED VARIETIES
FOR EXHIBITION AND GARDEN DECORA-
TION

Bertha Von Suttner : Salmon-pink suffused with yellow.

Durban : Yellow shaded with rose.

Holman Hunt : Crimson shaded with scarlet.

Liberty : Bright scarlet.

Merveille : Rose shaded with yellow.

Mrs. George Gordon : Cream-white. A large flower with
long stem.

Mrs. J. B. Riding : Deep scarlet. A large and attractive
flower.

Norah Lindsay : Of charming dove colour suffused with
pink.

Ruskin : Pink striped and suffused crimson.

South Pole : White.

The Geisha (see Plate VII) : Orange-red and yellow.
A large flower ; very effective in the garden.

Titian : Blush white suffused with rose.

CHAPTER VIII
DECORATIVE DAHLIAS

THE Dahlias popularly known as decorative varieties have
been often described as flowers that do not conform to the
standard of any recognised sections but yet are sufficiently
attractive forjcultivation. This somewhat vague description
served its purpose very well when the number of varieties
was small and a proportion of them — such, for instance, as
the brilliantly coloured Glare of the Garden — had belonged
to the distant past ; but with largely increased numbers it
would be well were an endeavour made to adopt a standard
that would indicate the characteristics of the section and
thus serve as a guide to both cultivators and raisers. It
is generally understood that the blooms should be double,
with broad and more or less flat florets with rounded or
pointed tips, but in the preparation of a code of properties
to which exhibitors and judges would have to give their
adherence considerable latitude must be allowed. Unless
this is done several varieties of much merit will be ex-
cluded, as for example the stately Grand Due Alexis with
its fluted or rolled up florets, and the elegant Admiration,
which has large flowers with broad florets that are so grace-
fully curved as to suggest a close relationship with the
paeony-flowered section.

The decorative Dahlias have been introduced at periods

60

THEIR ORIGIN 61

extending over a long time. A few of the varieties take us
back sixty or seventy years, while others have been raised
and distributed since the commencement of the present
century. Some of the varieties in general cultivation had
their origin in batches of seedlings raised from seed saved
from show Dahlias, and were selected because of their
effectiveness in the garden. These were mostly introduced
to cultivation soon after the favour shown the cactus
Dahlia had made it quite clear that the trend of the public
taste was in the direction of a fuller appreciation of Dahlias
less formal than the show section which had for so long
a period occupied a predominant position. Since the
general recognition of decorative Dahlias has encouraged
raisers to distribute new varieties they have adopted a
systematic method of improving them, and such progress
has been made as to justify the anticipation that the section
will in due course become of considerable importance.

The giant decorative varieties which form a distinct and
for some purposes useful group are of continental origin,
and the earlier varieties were introduced to this country at
the close of the nineteenth century. The varieties that
produce large flowers with broad, flat florets like those of
Souvenir de Gustave Douzon were raised in France, and
Grand Due Alexis, with its huge blooms composed of rolled
or fluted florets, with one or two others, originated in
Germany. They have not attained to a very high degree of
popularity ; not one of the varieties has obtained recognition
from either of the societies that make awards to novelties,
and seldom are blooms seen at the exhibitions of the
societies directly associated with Dahlias. Notwithstanding
the fact that they have not been regarded with much favour

62 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

by cultivators generally, they are popular with some, and
there can be no question as to their great value in the
production of rich colour effects in gardens of large size.
In some of the public parks and gardens they have been
utilised with much success, and the large beds and groups
in the borders have proved very attractive. They are better
suited to the conditions that obtain in large gardens than
smaller ones, but a few plants may with advantage be
planted along the back of mixed borders in gardens of
limited size because of their distinctness and the display
of colour they produce.

Decorative Dahlias vary much in their habits of growth.
Some, like the invaluable, white bedding variety Kaiserin A.
Victoria, do not exceed a height of 2 feet, whilst others
grow to 6 or more feet. There is also a material differ-
ence in the size of the flowers ; those of Souvenir de
Gustave Douzon attaining a diameter of 6 or 7 inches
even when given ordinary garden cultivation. It will
thus be seen that in making a selection care must be taken
to choose varieties specially suitable for the furnishing of
large beds on the lawn and the formation of bold groups
in borders devoted to hardy or other flowers in large
gardens. In gardens of all sizes a few plants arranged
singly among low-growing shrubs that are planted rather
thinly will materially enhance the appearance of the
shrubbery border and give additional interest to the
garden. When thus grown, from 5 or 6 feet apart
will be a good distance at which to plant the Dahlias, as
there will then be no danger of them crowding the shrubs
to their injury.

Decorative varieties of a less robust habit may be grown

STRONG-GROWING VARIETIES 63

in beds and borders in precisely the same manner as the
giants, except that they are not so suitable for forming
a background to tall plants. In the mixed borders and
arranged singly or in groups consisting of two or three
plants each along the middle of the border and about 7
feet apart they produce a good effect. As the plants have
a tendency to make a vigorous growth but little assistance
from manurial matter will be necessary. It will really be
better not to give manure to the borders than to apply it in
excess of requirement, as compact-growing plants bearing
a profusion of flowers on stiff stems are to be desired, and
not great masses of foliage with but few blooms of an
exceptional size.

But varieties that are dwarf in growth and profuse
in flowering like Kaiserin A. Victoria and Glare of the
Garden should have a liberally manured soil, otherwise
they will become exhausted by flower production before
the autumn. They are most effective when grown in
beds of varying sizes and along the front of the mixed
border, and if the plants are strong when put out they
will bloom freely and continuously from about the middle
of July until cut down by the frost. Two feet will be a
good distance at which to put them apart.

TWELVE GIANT DECORATIVE VARIETIES
FOR EXHIBITION AND GARDEN DECORATION

Attraction : Maroon with white tips.
Delice : Rich rose-pink. Distinct and of great beauty.
Grand Due Alexis: White tipped with rose. This
flower has fluted florets.

64 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

Le Colosse : Salmon-red. The florets are very broad and
the flower is unusually effective.

Loveliness : Deep pink shading to white. Very beauti-
ful.

Madame A. Nonin : Pale pink. Very pleasing.

Papa Channel : Rich crimson-maroon.

Phenomene : Bright salmon. Very distinct.

Queen Mary : Rose-pink. Very fine.

Souvenir de Gustave Douzon : Orange-scarlet. A large
flower with broad florets.

Yellow Colosse : Deep yellow with broad florets.

Souvenir de Chalonne : Yellow suffused with red,
collerette pale yellow.

TWELVE DECORATIVE DAHLIAS FOR
GARDEN DECORATION

Cannell's Favourite : Yellow suffused with bronze.

Countess of Pembroke: Pale lilac. Distinct and very
pleasing.

Claribel : Rosy-purple. Very effective.

Glare of the Garden : Orange-scarlet. Very free and
effective.

Empress of India : Maroon-crimson. Useful for its deep
colour.

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria : White, dwarf, wondrously
free flowering, the best bedding Dahlia yet introduced.

Kriemhilda : Soft rose-pink. Distinct and free flower-
ing.

M aid of Kent : Crimson tipped with white.

Mrs. C. Turner : Bright yellow. Large, and very free.

DECORATIVE DAHLIAS 65

Orange Glare of the Garden : Orange-red. Very free and
showy.

Princess Juliana : Pure white. Very free, and valuable
for the supply of cut flowers.

Salisbury White : Pure white. Of medium size, with
short, pointed florets.

CHAPTER IX
COLLERETTE DAHLIAS

THE varieties belonging to this section are distinguished
from all others by having a frill of short, erect florets
around the central disc, which gives the blooms a distinct
and pleasing appearance and the section its distinctive
name. These florets are really an amplification of the
outer row belonging to the disc, and upon their develop-
ment and colour the merits of a variety largely depend.
Practically collerette varieties are single Dahlias with the
addition of the frill or collar of erect florets, therefore the
blossoms should be stout in substance and regular in
outline, and the collar full and the colour in harmony or
pleasing contrast with the ray florets.

The history of the section extends over so short a
period that it may be briefly stated. In the year 1899, in
the municipal gardens of the Pare de la Tete d'Or, Lyons,
two Dahlia plants produced sports bearing blossoms with
abnormal florets around the disc. These sports in due
course became fixed and were propagated, and in 1901 they
were distributed as " Collerette " Dahlias by Messrs. Rivoire
and Son, Lyons, under the names of President Viger and
Joseph Goujon. Since the introduction of these two
sports many excellent varieties of the same class have been
raised from seed and introduced to cultivation, but it was

66

FRENCH VARIETIES 67

not until 1910 that the collerette Dahlias received in this
country the attention they so well merit. The interest that
was shown in them in the autumn of 1912 seemed to
promise a wonderful future for this type of Dahlia. Both
the French and German raisers have shown activity in
the improvement of these varieties, and proceeding on
divergent lines, they have achieved much success. The
French varieties have flowers of great substance with broad
florets rounded at the tips so regularly arranged as to form a
complete circle ; those which had their origin in Germany
bear flowers with rather thin, pointed florets. This slight
falling off in substance and form has ample compensation
in the distinct and beautiful shades of colour, and in the
brightness of the blooms. The majority of cultivators will
probably prefer the more formal French flowers because
of the greater substance and richer colours, and to ex-
hibitors their greater staying qualities will be an advantage.
The average size of the blooms of the collerette Dahlias
exceeds that of the singles, and it does not appear desirable
their size should further increase because of the risk of their
stems not possessing sufficient strength to bear them erect,
a point of much importance both in the garden and when
cut. The chief points to which raisers should give their
attention are the improvement in the florets around the disc
and in obtaining greater uniformity in development and a
wider range of colours.

Most of the varieties of moderate height have a free,
branching habit and bloom very freely ; they also possess
in a marked degree the merit of bearing their flowers well
above the foliage. This attribute, combined with attractive
colouring, renders the type of much value for the garden.

68 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

In general character the collerette Dahlias approach most
closely the singles, and the sections may be successfully
grown in the same conditions. The soil should in all cases be
deeply dug and well broken up, and be moderately enriched
with well-decomposed farmyard or stable manure. For beds
and borders in which they are to be grown for decorative
effect a light dressing will suffice to maintain the growth
essential to the continuous succession of flowers. They
are admirably adapted for associating with other classes of
plants, and may be planted singly or in groups of three, the
latter method being the more effective in borders ranging
from 8 to 10 feet in width. A border wholly devoted to
them will form an attractive and interesting feature, as
indeed will a spacious bed on the lawn. When grown in
beds and borders wholly devoted to them the plants should
be arranged from 3 to 3^ feet apart. As in the case of the
singles, the flower heads must be removed within a short
time of the florets losing their beauty, the plants being
examined for this purpose at regular intervals. The old
flower heads are not only unsightly, but seed development
imposes so severe a tax upon the plants as to materially
check their growth.

EIGHTEEN COLLERETTE DAHLIAS FOR EX-
HIBITION AND GARDEN DECORATION

Albert Maumene : Bright mauve, collerette pale lilac.
Antwerpia : Deep red with yellow collerette.
Burgomaster Seifurth : Bright crimson with yellow coller-
ette.

FOR EXHIBITION 69

Comtesse Dugon : White marked with purple, collerette
white.

Diadem : Deep but bright rose with light rose collerette.

Diamant : Rose with lighter collerette.

Gallia (see Plate VIII) : Cream colour shaded with rose,
collerette cream-white.

Exposition de Lyon : Cerise, collerette white and rose.

Henri Farman : Bright red margined with primrose,
collerette soft yellow.

Ideal : Deep crimson with yellow collerette.

Maurice Rivoire : Bright crimson with white collerette.

Madame F. G. Bruant : Rose-purple with white coller-
ette.

Madame Le Page Vigier : Rich scarlet with yellow
collerette.

Madame Pairier : Magenta with white collerette.

Meteor : Deep crimson with white collerette.

Princess Louise : Deep crimson with yellow collerette.

Rheinkrone : Maroon with white collerette edged with red.

Souvenir de Chabonne : Yellow suffused with crimson
and tipped white, collerette yellow.

CHAPTER X

METHODS OF PROPAGATION

THE propagation of Dahlias is really a very simple matter,
but in the raising of stocks of these, as of most other classes
of plants, the details have to be clearly understood before
the simplicity of the method adopted becomes obvious.
Therefore those who are inexperienced in the art of cultivat-
ing Dahlias should be careful to become well acquainted
with the several methods of increase and the culture for
which they are best suited, and so avoid unnecessary trouble
and failure. The information essential to obtaining satis-
factory results in propagation will be found in this chapter.
To begin well is a point of much importance, and this
fact was recognised not less clearly by the past generation
of cultivators than by the most successful growers at the
present time. We have abundant proof of this in the
periodic literature of past days, in which Dahlias and their
cultivation received a full share of attention. Again and
again we find the old writers urging their readers to so
carry out the earlier details that the plants will be able to
make a good start when transferred to beds and borders,
and will not have to make up for time lost in the preparatory
stage. A good beginning as generally understood by
Dahlia growers is the provision of a stock of strong plants

GROWTH UNDER GLASS 71

with firm, short-jointed growth for planting out at the end
of May, or a week or so earlier if the district, situation, and
soil will admit of this being done with safety.

There are three methods by which Dahlia stocks may
be annually renewed or increased in accordance with
individual requirements, and it is advisable to give their
relative advantages and disadvantages due consideration.

The first is simply starting the roots into growth under
glass early in the spring and then growing them on with no
other manipulation of the several shoots except reducing
them to two or three, the smaller number being preferable,
and planting them intact. The renewal of the stock in
this manner has much to recommend it to those who grow
Dahlias exclusively for garden decoration, and while anxious
to raise the plants required at home have no convenience
for rooting cuttings, or are unable to devote the necessary
attention to them. Plants raised from the old tubers in
this manner commence to bloom earlier than those raised
from cuttings in the usual way, and when they are grown
wholly for garden decoration this point is worthy of con-
sideration, more especially in the case of many of the
cactus varieties. As a set-off to the advantage of prolonging
the season of flowering it must be said that the blooms are
not, as a rule, of so high a quality as those borne by plants
raised from cuttings ; and should the season be open, and the
period of flowering extended longer than is usual, some
flowers will, late in autumn, exhibit open centres.

In raising plants by this method of procedure the roots
are removed from the shed, loft, or cellar in which they
have been wintered at the end of February or quite early
in March and put in pots that are 6 inches in diameter.

72 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

The pots should have a few crocks placed in the bottom,
with a layer of some loose material such as the rougher
part of the compost, to prevent the fine soil working down
between the crocks and interfering with the escape of the
surplus water. Generally speaking the roots will be too
large to admit of their being put into pots of the size men-
tioned without being previously reduced. To effect the
necessary reduction shorten the tubers to about one-half
their length by a cut made at right angles and leave them
fully exposed in the greenhouse or frame for two or three
days to give time for the cut ends to become dry before pro-
ceeding to put them in pots. In carrying out the last-named
detail use turfy loam to which decayed stable manure has
been added in the proportion of one part to each five parts
of loam. If manure of the description mentioned is not
available, use instead bone meal at the rate of one 5-inch
flowerpotful to a bushel of soil. Should it be desired to
increase the stock beyond the number of tubers available,
turn the plants out of the pots when the young shoots are
about 3 inches long and divide them into two or three portions,
preferably two, and then put them into 6-inch pots. Some
trouble may be saved without any accompanying disadvan-
tage by starting the tubers that are to be divided in shallow
boxes with any light soil that may be available packed about
them. When so started they can on the shoots reaching
the length mentioned be lifted out of the box, divided, and
put into pots 6 inches in diameter. The tubers must be
shortened before they are put into the boxes, and a compost
similar to that already advised be used. Provided the soil
be moderately moist when the tubers are potted or boxed,
very little water will be required except an occasional

PLATE VI
POMPON DAHLIAS

NELLIE BROOMHEAD

IDEAL

EDITH BRYANT

A SECOND METHOD 75

spraying overhead until the young shoots are pushing
freely.

The second of the methods of propagating Dahlias is by
means of cuttings, and where the conveniences exist for
rooting them it is unquestionably the best of the three
systems. With the aid of a glass structure in which a
temperature of 65° and a bottom heat of 70° can be main-
tained there is no difficulty whatever in rooting cuttings,
and plants so raised can with ordinary good culture be
depended upon to produce blooms of high quality. They
may not come into flower quite so early as those grown
directly from the old tubers, but, following the advice here
given for shifting the young plants into 6-inch pots when
well rooted, and growing them in such manner as to ensure
their acquiring strength, there will not be a great difference
in the date of flowering of given varieties. Lateness of
flowering is in most cases due to keeping the plants in
small pots from the time of their rooting until they are
transferred to their summer quarters and the leeway they
have to make up when they have become established
therein.

An ideal structure for raising stocks of Dahlias, and
indeed many other classes of plants that are increased by
means of spring-struck cuttings, is a span roof house about
10 feet wide and of a length proportionate to the require-
ments of the garden. This should have a 3 feet walk
down the centre and beds 3^ feet wide on either side,
and one of these should be provided with two 4-inch
hot -water pipes underneath to furnish the necessary
bottom heat. There should also be two pipes close to
the wall on either side. The bottom of the bed over the

76 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

hot-water pipes should be formed with some strong material
that will allow the heat from the pipes to pass through it —
such, for example, as slate slabs or corrugated galvanised
iron — and on this make a bed of sand or other loose material
in which to plunge the cutting pots. In a structure
arranged as here advised the Dahlias or other plants can be
started into growth on one side and their cuttings rooted
on the other, and the stage unprovided with bottom heat
will also be useful for the accommodation of the rooted
cuttings for a few days after they have been potted off
singly.

In thus briefly describing what may be considered an
ideal structure for the propagation of Dahlias it must not
be understood that it is essential to success. It will be
found simple and inexpensive and a great convenience, but
Dahlias equal to the requirements of a large garden can be
raised in almost any house in which a temperature of about
65° is maintained. They can be readily rooted in a warm
pit or frame, and in a two-light frame placed on a bed of
warm leaves several hundred plants may be raised in the
course of the season without difficulty.

The best time to commence propagation by means of
cuttings is the end of February, and the roots intended for
furnishing supplies should be put in boxes or pots in much
the same manner as advised for starting into growth those
which are to be grown on with or without being divided.
As the tubers will be destroyed when they have yielded the
required number of cuttings, any light soil will be suitable
for packing about the roots when in boxes or pots, and the
former are preferable because of the saving of room effected.
To avoid any mistakes with the names put a new tally to

ROOTING CUTTINGS 77

each of the roots as they are potted or boxed, and when the
roots of several varieties are put in the same box take care
to avoid mixing the cuttings. Placed in a house in which
a temperature of about 65° is maintained, and sprayed
overhead with sufficient frequency to maintain a moderate
degree of moisture about them, they will soon start into
growth. At first the roots may be sprayed with clear
water every second day, but at the end of the first week
the spraying should be given daily, carried out late in the
afternoon, and on the appearance of the young shoots
they may be watered in the usual way.

Within a short time of the commencement of new
growth preparations should be made for proceeding with
the work of rooting the cuttings. The first growths when
2 or 3 inches in length will present so promising an
appearance that the inexperienced will not hesitate to utilise
them for the increase of stock. Some growers invariably
take advantage of such aid as they afford, but the first growths
do not make such good plants as the later ones, and should
therefore be destroyed. If the second crop of growths will
afford a sufficient supply of cuttings they should be taken
off close to the tuber by means of a knife. These will have
a firm base, and be the most suitable when the cuttings have
to be rooted in a lower temperature than that suggested.
If the number will not be sufficient allow them to attain a
length of 3 inches. Then take them off from f of an
inch to i inch above the tubers with a view to avoid
injury to the buds around the base of the shoots. These
buds, on the removal of the growing shoot, will soon start
into active growth, and in due course the resulting shoots
will be utilised for propagating purposes.

78 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

In the preparation of cuttings that have been taken off
close to the tuber it will suffice to remove the lower pair of
leaves, but in the case of the others cut away the lower
portion of the stem immediately under the base of the two
lower leaves, which must then be cut off close to the stem.
The cuttings may be rooted singly in 2-inch pots, or in
threes inserted round the sides of 3-inch pots, and as there
is some economy of space by the latter method it is prefer-
able in the majority of private gardens. For filling the cut-
ting pots use a rather light loam of good quality to which
sharp silver sand has been added in the proportion of one
part sand to five parts of loam. With the aid of a blunt
stick insert the cuttings at such depth as will admit of
the base resting on the soil at the bottom of the hole and
the first joint being level with the surface. As the pots are
filled give a moderate watering through a fine rose and
plunge them to the rim in the hotbed, the temperature of
which ought not to exceed 70°. The subsequent manage-
ment consists in spraying the cuttings once or twice daily
as may be necessary to prevent the leaves flagging, screen-
ing them from the sun, and ventilating with sufficient
freedom to maintain a fresh, buoyant atmosphere, for if the
atmosphere is allowed to become close and excessively
moist many of the cuttings will fail to root.

In about twenty days from the time of their insertion
the cuttings should be nicely rooted, and may be removed
to a cool bed in the same house or to a cool structure,
where, with moderate ventilation, they should remain for a
few days previous to potting them off singly or shifting
them into larger pots according to the method adopted in
the insertion of the cuttings. To admit of this operation

RAISING SEEDLINGS 79

being performed with a full measure of success prepare a
compost consisting of good fibrous loam six parts,
thoroughly decayed stable or farmyard manure, leaf-mould
two parts each, and coarse silver sand one part. Then
take 3-inch pots, put a few small crocks in the bottom
of each pot, and cover the crocks with rough material, to
secure efficient drainage. On this material put about 2
inches of the prepared compost, and then place the young
plant in the centre and fill in carefully and firmly with the
requisite quantity of compost. As the potting proceeds
return the plants to the same house, place them near the
glass, and keep the house rather close for a few days. Sub-
sequently they may be removed to a frame or pit, or allowed
to remain in the same house, in either case having the ad-
vantage of a free circulation of air about them.

The raising of seedlings is the third of the several
methods by which Dahlias can be readily propagated, but
it is not one that can be recommended as adapted to the
requirements of the general body of cultivators. To raise
seedlings is a very simple matter, and there is much interest
associated with the sowing of the seeds, tending the young
plants, and watching the development of the flowers, but
the results are seldom sufficient to justify either the space
devoted to seedlings or the attention necessary. It may be
that if the seed has been saved from first-class varieties that
have been beyond the influence of pollen of those distinctly
inferior, a few that will be of merit may be obtained from
several hundred seedlings, the remainder being moderately
good or distinctly bad. Therefore seedlings should not be
grown for garden decoration by the general body of culti-
vators. Varieties of high merit are alone suitable for that

8o PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

purpose, and to grow those which cannot be so described
is to waste space that should be turned to the best possible
account by the owner.

In the early days of the single Dahlia a stock argument
in advocacy of the cultivation of single flowers was the
facility with which they could be raised from seed. Many
amateurs acted upon the suggestion, raised seedlings in
considerable numbers, and as the result filled their borders
with a motley crowd of plants bearing flowers of indifferent
quality. Many were disappointed with the singles in con-
sequence, and some banished them from their gardens. If
the raising of seedlings is entered upon, it should be with
some definite object in view, and be proceeded with on
well-defined lines, and the trial of the varieties should be
conducted wholly apart from the decorative part of the
garden.

To obtain strong plants that will come into bloom
sufficiently early to admit of it being readily seen whether
they are worth keeping over the winter for further test, the
seed should be sown in March, and preferably in the first
half of the month. Sow the seeds thinly in shallow pans or
boxes filled with a light, sandy compost, cover them with a
sprinkling of fine soil, and give them a moderate watering
through a fine rose. Then place the pans or boxes in a
structure in which a temperature ranging between 65°
and 70° is maintained, and if they can be placed where
the seed will have the assistance of a bottom heat of
about 70° germination will be more rapid. Until the
seedlings are making their appearance above the surface of
the soil the position of the pans or boxes is not a matter of
moment, but when they arc seen to be growing they should

POTTING SEEDLINGS 81

if necessary be removed to a part of the house where the
plants will be near the glass and receive a full share of
light without being much exposed to strong sunlight.

When the second leaves are in process of development,
and before the seedlings suffer from overcrowding, prick
them off into shallow boxes filled with light, rich soil
and put them about 2\ inches apart each way. Keep
them rather close and shaded for two or three days, to
enable them to recover from the check received. When
this period is passed expose them more freely to light and
air, and as soon as they show signs of becoming crowded
pot them singly, using 3-inch pots and a rather rich com-
post. When seedlings reach this stage they should be
grown under precisely the same conditions as plants raised
from cuttings.

CHAPTER XI
CULTIVATION

IN entering upon the cultivation of Dahlias it will be found
an immense advantage to first determine whether they are
to be grown for the purpose of obtaining bright displays of
flowers in the garden or for the production of highly-de-
veloped blooms that will win prizes in close competitions at
exhibitions. It is essential this should be done, because the
cultural methods must be carefully adapted to the special
purpose for which the plants are grown. In the past it
has been too much the practice to recommend and adopt
the same course of procedure for plants intended for adding
to the attractions of flower beds and borders as for those
from which exhibition blooms are required. In conse-
quence the results have in most cases failed to realise the
anticipations of cultivators, and the Dahlia has suffered in
repute as a garden flower. With the exception of the
pompons, pompon cactus and single varieties, Dahlias
grown for exhibition require very generous treatment in
the matter of manurial applications. On the contrary,
those grown for decorative effect, or the supply of cut flowers
for use in floral arrangements, require only a moderately
rich soil. In the latter case, if manure is applied in excess
of that necessary to maintain a continuous and moderate
growth; the leaf-development is such as to prevent in some

SITE AND SOIL 83

cases the blooms rising above the foliage, and in others
the blooms attain to so large a size as to render it difficult
to utilise them with success in arrangements other than
those of the boldest character.

SITE AND SOIL FOR EXHIBITION DAHLIAS

Dahlias are so accommodating in their requirements both
as regards position and soil that there are but few gardens
in which they cannot be grown with success for exhibition
purposes, without special preparations being made for them.
Some gardens are better adapted to their requirements than
others, and it is therefore advisable that cultivators should
fully inform themselves as to the conditions by which they
attain to the highest state of development, and be thus in a
position to strengthen the weak points in their practice.

In the first place, it cannot be too distinctly understood
that the position should be sufficiently open for the plants
to enjoy a full exposure to the rays of the sun and a free
circulation of air about them. Without such exposure the
growth will be soft and the blooms have a tendency to
coarseness. Sites that are partially shaded by tall trees are
unsuitable, for the branches will deprive the plants of some
portion of the sunlight, and the roots will push freely into
the enriched soil and deprive the Dahlias of a large share
of their food.

The question of shelter is of considerable importance,
as Dahlias when grown in rich soil suffer more or less
when exposed to high winds. This being the case, it is
an advantage to give them a site where they will be
sheltered somewhat from winds, especially those from the

84 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

west. An ideal site would be an area of sufficient size to
accommodate the number of plants to be grown and en-
closed with a hedge of yew or holly some 6 feet high.
The majority of cultivators have to be satisfied with a site
falling short of the ideal, and it is therefore gratifying to
know that artificial shelter from the winds may be provided
at a small cost. A single line of Lombardy poplars planted
2 feet apart and cut back to within 6 feet of the ground will
form a really good screen the first year, and the trees can be
kept to the dimensions of a hedge about 7 feet high for an
indefinite period. Trees about 8 feet high and well furnished
with side growths near the base are the best for the purpose
in question. The provision of shelter is not, however, likely
to occasion any great difficulty, because the majority of
gardens are bounded by hedges, close fences, or walls, and
the owners of gardens who are filled with a desire to take
a prominent position at exhibitions of these flowers will not
be slow to take advantage of such favourable positions as
their gardens afford.

PREPARATION OF THE SOIL

Deep cultivation should be regarded as not less essential
to success in the production of exhibition blooms than the
liberal enrichment of the soil with manure. The proper
time for commencing the preparation of the ground de-
pends to some extent on its character, a point that is
frequently overlooked, as evidenced by the zeal with which
this and that season is recommended without any reserva-
tion. Heavy soils are more slowly acted upon by atmos-
pheric agencies than are those which are lighter in texture,

PREPARATION OF SOIL 85

and therefore they require a much longer exposure previous
to the planting season. If the soil is a strong or heavy
loam it should be trenched or deeply dug in the autumn or
early in the winter, and have the surface left in a rough state
to enable the pulverising and purifying action of the winter
frosts and rains to have full play in the exercise of their
beneficial influence. Light soils may be trenched or dug
at the same time as those which are heavy, or they may be
prepared in the spring as may be found the most con-
venient.

In trenching ground for Dahlias the soil should be
broken up to a depth of at least 2 feet, and if the
bottom spit consists of clay, gravel, or other unsuitable
material it should not be brought to the surface as in
ordinary trenching. The best means of avoiding this is
the adoption of the following course of procedure. First
open out a trench 2 feet wide and 12 inches deep,
and instead of taking out the bottom spit in the same
manner as in ordinary trenching dig it to a depth of 12
inches. This having been done, take out a second trench
in a manner similar to the first and put the soil into the
first trench, continuing this until the whole of the area has
been broken up to the desired depth. By this course of
procedure a deep root run is provided without burying the
well-worked soil beneath that which is not favourable to
rapid root development.

The application of manure requires careful considera-
tion, for not only has the right kind to be selected, but it
should be applied at such time as will enable the plants to
obtain from it the fullest possible benefit. Manure from
the farmyard or stable is the most suitable for Dahlias, and

86 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

when the soil is heavy and tenacious in texture it should be
applied in a partially decomposed state in the autumn or
early in the winter, immediately before the ground is
trenched or otherwise broken up. If, on the contrary, the
soil is light, apply the manure in the spring, and use it in an
advanced stage of decomposition. A lengthy reference to
the use of manure in the flower garden is not necessary,
but it may perhaps be well to mention that the decomposi-
tion of manure of the kind recommended proceeds slowly
in heavy soils, whilst in lighter soils the decomposition pro-
ceeds with considerable rapidity. As lighter soils have but
indifferent retentive properties, some of the food elements are
washed down by the rains and carried off by the drainage
system in the course of the winter. Hence it is that heavy
soils are most successfully manured in the autumn and
light ones in the spring, and that in the latter case the
material should be in a sufficiently advanced stage of decay
for the plants to obtain the requisite supplies of food when
their roots begin to run freely in the soil.

If the advice here given with regard to breaking up the
soil by digging or trenching is acted upon, the weather by
the beginning of March will have so pulverised the surface
of heavy soils that the lumps will fall to pieces when
crushed with the back of a rake or other implement. Quite
early in the month dig the quarter with the fork or spade,
preferably the former, and drive the tool straight down tc
a depth of fully 12 inches, and in the process of digging
break up the larger lumps. Light soil should be dug over
or trenched to a depth of 2 feet at the end of February or
the beginning of March, and before digging is commenced
sufficient decayed stable or farmyard manure should, as in

BEDS AND BORDERS 87

the case of heavy soils, be applied to form a 4-inch layer
when spread over the surface.

Soil preparation is not completed by the March opera-
tions, and the cultivators who would achieve a full measure
of success must subsequent thereto fork the ground over
two or three times previous to putting out the plants at the
end of May or early in June. To the beginner this may
appear unnecessary, but experience warrants the assertion
that the aeration and pulverisation resulting therefrom have
a highly beneficial influence upon the root system, which
will be seen in the rapid and satisfactory progress made
by the plants during their earlier stages of growth. Soils
that have been highly cultivated for a considerable number
of years will be greatly improved by a dressing of newly-
slaked lime, the quantity used to be sufficient to form a
thin layer over the surface. Soils manured early in the
winter may receive their dressing of lime in March, but the
others should be limed about a month after the manure is
applied. Lime and manure should not be applied simul-
taneously because of the loss resulting from the setting free
by the action of the lime of some part of the ammonia
contained in the latter.

BEDS AND BORDERS OF GARDEN DAHLIAS

In the preparation of beds and borders for Dahlias
grown for the embellishment of the garden or for the supply
of cut flowers a less generous use of manure should be
made than is necessaiy for those grown for exhibition.
The quantity should be reduced by about one-half unless
the soil is light and much impoverished, when two-thirds

88 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

may be applied with advantage. Should the beds or
borders have been so liberally enriched in previous years
that Dahlias make an excessively strong growth, give instead
of manure a liberal dressing of slaked lime, previous to
breaking up the soil. It is advisable to trench the ground
for garden Dahlias in precisely the same manner as for
those grown for exhibition purposes ; but trenching is not
so imperative, and good results may be obtained from plants
growing in ground that has been dug to a depth of not less
than 12 inches. If shallow digging is resorted to the roots
will be so near the surface as to incur the risk of the plants
suffering from an insufficiency of moisture should there be
a period of dry weather during the summer months.
Stations for single plants or groups in mixed borders should,
as a matter of course, be prepared in much the same
manner as the beds and borders.

WHEN AND HOW TO PLANT

Having dealt with the questions of sites for exhibition
Dahlias and soil preparation for all classes, it becomes
necessary to give attention to the plants in their several
stages of development. If the advice given in the chapter
on propagation is acted upon, the greater proportion of the
plants will be well established by the middle of April in
pots 3 inches in diameter. Those raised from cuttings
rooted rather late in the spring will be well established in
their pots at the beginning of May. Both early and late
plants and those obtained from the nurseries should be dealt
with in precisely the same manner when they have reached
the stage at which more root room becomes necessary.

PLATE VII
P^EONY-FLOWERED DAHLIA— THE GEISHA

WHEN TO PLANT 91

One of the essentials to success in the cultivation of
Dahlias is to maintain them in a progressive state from
the time they are transferred from the cutting pots until
they are planted in their summer quarters. In not a few
instances beginners in Dahlia culture fail to appreciate the
importance of this point, and leave the plants in the small
pots until such times as it is safe to bed them out. As the
result of this starving process they become more or less
stunted in growth, "and several weeks are taken up in the
recovery of lost time, a point of much importance consider-
ing the comparative shortness of British summers. Whether
raised at home or purchased from the nurseries, the plants
should be well established in small pots by the end of April
or early in May, and be then shifted into pots 5 or 6 inches
in diameter, the larger size being preferable. Use a sub-
stantial compost such as one consisting of fibrous loam
four parts, and leaf-mould and well-decayed manure one
part each, and pot moderately firm. It will be an ad-
vantage if the plants can be placed in a garden frame or
pit, where they can have the assistance of a little artificial
heat at night for a short time, and in the daytime also if the
weather is cold. Fire heat is not, however, essential, but they
must at least be placed in a frame where they can be kept
rather close and screened from bright sunlight for a short
period and be kept safe from frost. If the compost is
moderately moist when used and the plants are well watered
previous to being repotted, but little if any water will be
required for two or three days. Subsequently the plants
must be watered at such intervals as may appear necessary,
remembering that while sufficient must be given to maintain
a progressive growth, the soil will become sour if the

92 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

supplies are in excess of requirements, and the plants will
receive a check from which they will not readily recover.
When watering is necessary give sufficient to thoroughly
moisten the soil, and then wait until the soil has become
rather dry before giving further supplies. After the plants
have become well established and have filled their pots
with roots the waterings may be carried out on a liberal
scale without any fear of injury. When they commence
to root freely after the repotting, as indicated by the de-
velopment of the points of the shoots, admit air freely and
discontinue the use of the shading material. From this
stage onward, while avoiding exposure to cold weather,
ventilate freely, and as the growth and season advances
draw the lights off during the warmer parts of the day, and
for a week or so previous to their being bedded out the
plants should be freely exposed during the night — pro-
vided, of course, that there is no risk of frost. Dahlias
grown in these conditions will range from 12 to 15 inches
in height by the beginning of June, have stems as thick
as the finger, and grow away freely and satisfactorily when
transferred to their summer quarters.

In making arrangements for planting out the cultivator
should allow the plants sufficient space for their full de-
velopment, and for them to receive the attention they will
require with some degree of comfort without there being
any waste of space. Some sections require more space
than others, but experienced cultivators are generally agreed
that the cactus, show, fancy, paeony-flowered, and the robust
decorative varieties when grown for exhibition should be
planted 4 feet apart in the rows, and 5-feet spaces allowed
between the rows. The single, pompon, and collerette

HOW TO PLANT 93

varieties, not being so robust, may be successfully grown
when planted 4 feet apart each way. Dahlias grown for
garden decoration in accordance with the advice given will
be less robust in growth than those cultivated for exhibition
purposes, and therefore will require less space. In arranging
them in beds and borders that are wholly devoted to them,
from 24 to 36 inches apart each way will be a good distance,
this being determined by the section and the character of
the soil. In growing Dahlias in association with the
various classes of hardy plants, they may be arranged singly
or in groups consisting of three plants each of one variety
as may be preferred. In the case of groups the most
striking effect is obtained by arranging the plants in the
form of a triangle and about 30 inches apart.

The plants intended for the production of colour effects
in the garden should be planted without any further en-
richment of the soil than that already mentioned, but in
the case of those grown for exhibition some additional
assistance that will be available during the earlier stages
of growth will be distinctly beneficial. With line and
measure mark the positions of the plants in accordance
with the measurements given, and then at each one dig in
about half a peck of thoroughly decayed stable manure and
a pint or so of soot. If manure of the kind mentioned is
not available, use instead some suitable fertiliser, such as
superphosphate of lime at the rate of 4 or 5 ounces at
each station. It will be an advantage to prepare the
positions a week or so before planting, and make the soil
moderately firm. The operation of making the holes is best
done with a trowel, and each hole should be large enough to
receive readily the ball of soil, the top of which should be

94 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

about half an inch below the surface when the planting has
been completed. There are two points which should be
borne in mind during these operations : one is to have
the ball of soil thoroughly moist, and the other the necessity
for pressing the soil firmly around it. To ensure the balls
being sufficiently moist water the plants a few hours
previously to bedding them out and not immediately
before this is done.

STAKING AND THINNING

Supports should be given to Dahlia plants immedi-
ately they are put in their summer quarters, for the
growth is somewhat soft and liable to injury from strong
winds. Therefore, immediately they are bedded out put a
strong stake to each plant, and in the case of those grown
for exhibition the stakes should be of sufficient length to
stand from 4 to 6 feet above the ground level, the exact height
being determined by that of the varieties. Tall stakes are
not particularly attractive, and for this reason it is a good
practice in providing support for plants grown for garden
decoration to use in the first instance stakes that will stand
about 2 feet above the ground level when firmly fixed in
the border, and when the growth has reached the top of
these to put other stakes that will be proportionate to the
height attained, as in the case of the exhibition Dahlias.
As the stakes for both classes are fixed in position make
the plants secure by strands of raffia or some other suitable
tying material. While too much play should not be
allowed, avoid tying the shoots tightly, that the stems may
not be injured by the ties as they increase in diameter :

STAKING AND THINNING 95

this increase will proceed rapidly when a vigorous growth
has commenced.

Should the climatic and soil conditions be favourable,
there will be evidence of vigorous growth in a comparatively
short period, and flower buds will soon afterwards make
their appearance. As the development of the side branches
proceeds, they should be looped up to the stake, with the
aid of raffia or other suitable material, and thus for a time
remove the risk of injury from rough winds. In a short
time further support will be required, and this should be
provided by putting two other stakes to each of the exhibi-
tion Dahlias, such stakes to be of the same height as those
used in the first instance. They should be so fixed in the
ground as to form, with those already in position, a series
of triangles. Connect the stakes supporting each plant
with stout cord or yarn, and to this tie the side branches
evenly and securely as they become long enough to render
additional support necessary. In the case of the cactus,
show, and other robust varieties that are being grown for
exhibition purposes, the earlier buds should be pinched out
immediately they are seen, and if the shoots have attained
some height, they should be pinched off below the first or
second joint. This stopping will divert some part of the
energies of the plant into the lower branches, which will
at once begin to make rapid progress, and in due course
produce flower buds that will prove useful by develop-
ing into blooms of high quality for the early shows.
Disbudding will not be necessary in the case of plants
grown for garden decoration, as large numbers of blooms
of average size are of greater value than a few remarkable
for exceptionally high development, When these latter

96 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

have reached to the top of the two first stakes, they
should have three others fixed around them, and these
should be of a height proportionate to that of the re-
spective varieties.

Thinning of the branches is an important detail in the
cultivation of the cactus, show, fancy, paeony-flowered, and
giant decorative varieties for exhibition. The cactus
varieties of rather dense growth should have their branches
thinned to five, six, or seven to each plant, and this should
be accomplished by the removal of the weaker shoots.
The show, fancy, paeony-flowered, and giant decorative
varieties will require thinning in a somewhat similar manner,
but the removal of the side branches must be regulated by
the character of the varieties. An excess of growth is
generally a hindrance to the flowers attaining to a high
state of development, but some varieties have a tendency
to produce large, coarse blooms, and if the growths of these
are severely thinned this defect will be more or less accen-
tuated. On the contrary, varieties producing relatively
small blooms will need a more severe thinning, that there
may be concentration of energy on the part of the plants.
All the foregoing sections when grown for garden decora-
tion should have their strong growths tied out and those
produced rather late in the season removed, for they are of
but little use for bloom production, moreover they deprive
the others of much light and air.

WATERING AND MULCHING

All Dahlias derive much benefit from a liberal amount
of moisture in the soil, and in the case of those grown for

LIQUID MANURE 97

exhibition it is essential that the soil should be moderately
moist during the development of the blooms. At the same
time watering must not be overdone at any stage. Upon this
point it is difficult to formulate rules that will be of practical
value, because so much depends upon whether the soil is
light or heavy, and whether the season is wet or dry. It is
a good practice to give a watering at the time of planting
and two or three waterings subsequently at intervals of three
or four days should the weather be dry, but not otherwise,
as much moisture in the soil before the roots begin to push
into it will do more harm than good. After the plants have
become established and are in full growth assist them with
one or more waterings during periods of dry weather, the
number to be determined by the length of the period over
which the latter extends. It is of much importance that
each supply should be sufficient to moisten the soil well
down to the roots.

After the plants are commencing to bloom freely much
assistance will be derived from occasional supplies of liquid
manure of a moderate degree of strength. The drainings
from the stable and farmyard, when much diluted, are an
excellent stimulant at this stage. Some care is necessary
in using this liquid, because if it is employed in too strong
a condition it will be injurious in its effects, and as the
drainings vary much in strength no definite directions can
be given for their dilution, which should be made with clear
water. A very good liquid stimulant may be prepared by
filling a tank or old cask of a capacity of 40 or 50 gallons
with water and placing in it a large bag of some loose
material filled with horse manure, allowing it to infuse for a
day or two. Then commence to use the liquid, and as each

G

98 PRESENV-DAY GARDENING

quantity is taken out refill with water. When the liquid has
lost its colour or become very pale, remove the bag of
manure and replace with a fresh one.

Mulching the surface of the ground will be highly
beneficial, and save excessive watering. Partially decayed
stable manure is the best material for the purpose, and it
should be spread over the surface in sufficient quantities to
form a 3-inch layer. This will prevent the rapid evapora-
tion of the moisture from the soil, and render it possible to
attend to the plants with comfort whether the soil is dry
or wet from rains or heavy waterings.

DISBUDDING AND SHADING

Flower buds will commence to make their appearance
at a comparatively early stage, and it is important in the
case of plants intended for the production of exhibition
blooms that they should not have their energies taxed with
flowers that will serve no useful purpose. Buds that
appear soon after the plants become established should be
removed in accordance with the directions already given.
The earlier of the second set of buds should also be re-
moved, unless the district is a late one, or the blooms are
required for early shows. Unless early blooms are re-
quired, take out the centre or leading bud of each branch ;
when this is done the secondary branches or growths will
commence to show buds, and generally speaking it will be
from these that the blooms for the September exhibitions
will be obtained. These should be thinned to one to each
sub-branch, the central or leading bud remaining, and the
laterals, with their buds that are produced from the two or

PLATE VIII
COLLERETTE DAHLIA— GALLIA

SHADING 101

three joints immediately below the buds that are left,
removed. As a rule, blooms of the cactus, show, fancy,
and giant decorative varieties attain their full development in
a month from the time of the buds making their appearance.
But it should be remembered in connection with this rule
that much variation in the rate of development may be
caused by differences in plants, weather, and other con-
tingencies, and that in consequence a greater latitude in
the matter of time should be allowed. To be really safe
it will be advisable to depend upon buds that show from
six to three weeks before the date of the exhibitions.

The flowers of all sections, with the exception of the
pompons and singles, that are intended for exhibition, should
be made secure to stakes of suitable lengths, and when
partly developed be protected from the weather by a shade
of some kind. Conical shades made with wire and calico
and about 12 inches in diameter and depth are the most
useful, and can be obtained from the leading nurserymen
and dealers in garden sundries. These are affixed to a
stout cane about 6 feet in height, and are so placed on
the supports that they afford efficient protection from both
rain and direct sunlight. The shade should be arranged so
that the bloom is near the centre, and high enough above
it that air can freely circulate about the latter. When the
shade is so low down that the air cannot circulate freely
there is a risk of the flower being injured by the heat
during periods of brilliant sunlight. The canes, it may be
added, should have the lower end pressed into the soil to
a depth of 9 or 10 inches to ensure their steadiness.
Dahlia blooms of all sections when intended for exhibition
should have some protection from the weather, but in

102 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

the case of the pompons and single varieties very little
shade will suffice.

LIFTING AND STORING THE ROOTS

With the lifting and storage of the tubers the year's
cultural work is completed. The second week of October
is the most suitable time for lifting the roots, as they will
then be in good condition for storing for the winter. The
growth of Dahlias is usually damaged by the frost before
the middle of October, and the plants rendered somewhat
unsightly, but there is no occasion to wait, as is occasionally
done, for that to happen before lifting the roots.

To avoid any risk of mistakes in the names, all the
plants of which the roots are to be stored should be ex-
amined, to see whether they are named correctly and
legibly. This should be done preferably before the
middle of September, whilst the plants are still in full
bloom. As the examination proceeds, a new and neatly-
written tally should be given to each, and be firmly attached
to the stake with string or thin wire. Then, as the stems
are cut down later on, to within about 6 inches of the
ground level, the tallies should be removed from the stakes
and attached to the base of the stem in such manner that
they cannot be separated from the roots. It will be an
advantage to select a dry day for lifting, and the best
method of procedure is to cut down the plants to within
6 inches of the ground level, and then with fork or spade
lift the roots, attach the new tallies to them, and leave them
on the surface for a few hours. If the roots are lifted early
in the morning and allowed to remain on the ground, they

STORING THE ROOTS 103

will become sufficiently dry by the afternoon to admit of
much of the soil about them being removed. Should it
not be possible to wait for a fine day, lift the roots and
place them on the floor of a dry shed or glass house, and
leave them until the soil has become dry enough to be
removed, taking care that the tubers are not exposed to
frost.

In selecting a place of storage, it is essential to bear in
mind that they must not be subjected to frost, damp, or a
high temperature. A dry cellar is as good a place as any
in which to keep Dahlia roots, but any shed or spare room
in which they can be kept safe from frost, damp, or ex-
cessive warmth may be utilised. In sheds and rooms, and
indeed in cellars that are not frost-proof, they can be kept
perfectly safe by covering them with a layer of dry straw
from twelve to fifteen inches in thickness. As some of the
tubers may, owing to injury during the process of lifting, or
from some other cause, show signs of decay after they are
stored, it will be prudent to examine the roots at intervals
of three or four weeks during the winter. If evidence of
decay is seen, the decayed tubers or portions of tubers
should be cut away, and the cut surfaces dressed with
dry, powdery lime. Unless this precaution is taken, all
the tubers of a root may rot, and the decay spread even
to sound tubers belonging to other roots placed near those
showing decay.

CHAPTER XII
SHOWS AND SHOWING

UNTIL nearly the close of the nineteenth century the
methods of presenting Dahlias to public notice at the
exhibitions were so primitive in character as to suggest to
the visitors that these flowers, in their wondrous diversity of
form and colour, possessed but little value beyond afford-
ing entertainment to fanciers well acquainted with their
properties as defined by the authorities, and therefore in
a position to fully appreciate them. During the past few
years immense improvements have been made in the staging
of Dahlias, and in visiting an exhibition of the first class
it is possible not only to enter whole-heartedly into the
enjoyment of their distinctive charms, but also to obtain
object-lessons in the arrangement of the blooms for the
decoration of the home, on festive and other occasions.
Great as the improvements at the exhibitions have been,
there is ample room for further reform, and it is much to
be desired that societies who devote any considerable share
of their attention to these flowers will see to it that their
exhibitions shall be not less remarkable for the taste shown
in the arrangement of the blooms than for the cultural
skill in their production. Were this to be more generally
the case, Dahlia shows would rapidly attain to a higher
degree of popularity, and thus become more useful, by

104

ARRANGING DAHLIAS 105

bringing Dahlias before a larger number of flower-lovers,
and showing them in the most conclusive manner their
great value for floral decorations of the most varied
character.

During the comparatively short period that has elapsed
since the opening days of the twentieth century, cultivators
for business purposes have proved to demonstration, by the
collections they have contributed to the leading exhibitions,
that Dahlias can be arranged to produce the most charming
effects without any greater difficulty than is associated with
other classes of flowers. In these collections may be seen
Dahlias arranged in vases, baskets, bamboo stands, and other
devices ; and it would be well were the competitive classes
to be so modified as to admit of such receptacles being
used freely throughout the exhibition, and thus render the
attractions so varied as to maintain the interest of visitors.
It may not be advisable to effect the total abolition of the
orthodox boxes, which have been in use since the earliest
days of Dahlia exhibitions ; but there can be no question
as to the advisability of vases being more largely used. In
no way do flowers, when cut from the plant, present a
more pleasing appearance than when so arranged that some
part of the stem, and a little of the foliage, can also be seen.

What is true of flowers generally is applicable to the
Dahlia in its diversity of form, and even show Dahlias,
when arranged in rather large vases of suitable design, are,
contrary to the general opinion, far more effective than
when placed on a sloping board. It is not practicable to
exhibit in vases blooms of such large dimensions as those
staged in accordance with the orthodox method ; but the
charm of the show Dahlia is not dependent on the size of

io6 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

the individual blooms. We have on several occasions seen
them exhibited in this way, and have frequently used them
for house decoration arranged in vases, and are fully per-
suaded that the inclusion of a few classes in the competitive
section would be helpful in obtaining for the show varieties
the attention to which they are so fully entitled. The
cactus, pompon, single, collerette, paeony-flowered, and
decorative varieties certainly present the most attractive
appearance when arranged in vases, from three to five
blooms in each ; and when the vases are provided by the
society, the additional expense to the exhibitor is not great.

The staging of cactus varieties, and also some other
sections, in triangular wire frames is undoubtedly more
convenient to exhibitors than exhibiting them in vases
without some such support, and the convenience of ex-
hibitors must not be overlooked. With the aid of these
frames, the blooms can be arranged at home on the
previous evening, or early in the morning of the show day,
and be readily packed and brought to the place of ex-
hibition. The arrangement of a considerable proportion
of the flowers shown before leaving home lessens the work
that has to be done after reaching the place of exhibition,
and thereby enables some cultivators to show more largely
than would otherwise be possible. Unfortunately, the frames
in general use are too flat and formal to allow of artistic
effects in the arrangement of collections ; and therefore,
if they are to be retained in the interests of exhibitors, an
endeavour should be made to effect an improvement in
their design.

A considerable advance has been made in the decora-
tive side of Dahlia shows within recent years, and there

ASSOCIATING FOLIAGE 107

is no doubt that this improvement will continue until the
decorations form a really important feature. Usually, the
exhibitors in the classes in which taste in arrangement
is the chief test of merit are allowed to associate with the
Dahlias any foliage they may consider suitable. There is
an advantage in allowing exhibitors to exercise their taste in
this matter, but it is not always exercised wisely. In most
instances, the blooms are quite satisfactory, but many are
so crowded by grasses and other foliage as to lose much of
their beauty. The most tasteful effects, whether in baskets,
£pergnes, or vases, are produced by employing blooms of one
variety, or of two or three varieties that harmonise in colour,
and arranged in association with a few sprays of the same
kind of foliage. For example, for arranging with the
various shades of orange, deep red, and crimson, a few
sprays of some purple-leaved shrub or tree, as Prunus
Pissardii, will be far better than a mixture of foliage of
diverse forms and colours. For associating with some of
the lighter coloured varieties, a few sprays of Dahlia
foliage are preferable to any other greenery, but the sprays
must be small, and obtained from plants that are growing
in poor soil, because the foliage of plants growing in rich
soil is too large for the purpose, too dark in tint, and so
soft that it quickly collapses when cut from the plant. It
is essential in the competition for prizes offered for baskets,
epergnes, and vases arranged for effect, that the receptacles
be properly dressed on all sides, and not "faced," under
the mistaken belief that the judges only look at the side of
the arrangements next to them.

In the selection of the blooms of all the sections for
exhibition, care should be taken to see that they are as

io8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

nearly perfect in development as possible, and quite free
from damage from the depredations of earwigs or other
cause. They should also, with the exception of the
pompon, pompon-cactus, and single varieties, be as large
as possible, consistent with freedom from coarseness, which
is a serious defect. The show, fancy, cactus, pompon,
paeony-flowered, and decorative varieties should be cut
when fully developed, but before the back florets have
lost their freshness. In the case of the single and col-
lerette varieties, blooms that have not quite reached their
full development should be selected, as these will retain
their freshness after being cut for a longer period than will
those which are fully open at the time of cutting. In all
cases the blooms should be cut quite early in the morning,
before the rays of the sun have reached them ; or late in
the evening, as may be most convenient ; and as they are
cut the stalks should be at once placed in water.

In staging the flowers, it is important to so arrange
them as to obtain a perfect harmony of colour, and, when
using sloping boards, to graduate the blooms according
to their sizes, placing the larger ones at the back, the next
size in the middle row, and the smaller specimens in the
front. Should the exhibitor in making up his stand find
he has one or two blooms that are much larger than the
others, he must carefully consider whether it is desirable
to use them, because of the risk of their so dwarfing the
others as to convey the impression that they are of really
small size. Blooms of show, fancy, and decorative varieties
are usually allowed 6 square inches superficial, and there-
fore a board for 12 blooms should be 24 inches long by
1 8 inches wide ; and a board for 18 blooms should be 36

NAMES OF BLOOMS 109

inches long by 18 inches wide. The lengths of boards for
other numbers of blooms will be proportionate, but the
width will remain the same, as the blooms are invariably
arranged in three rows.

In all cases the name should be written legibly on small
cards, and so fixed that the visitors will have no difficulty
in reading the names, and there will be no risk of the
displacement of the cards. Special attention may well be
directed to the naming of Dahlias at exhibitions, for in
many instances it is far from satisfactory. In some cases
the names are written on a slip of paper in such a manner
as to render it difficult for visitors to readily ascertain the
names of the varieties represented. This difficulty is in-
creased when the names are written hurriedly with a pencil
and, it may be, some measure of abbreviation adopted.

CHAPTER XIII
INSECT ENEMIES

DAHLIAS are so far wholly free from bacterial and fungous
diseases, and they have few insect enemies. The chief of
these latter are earwigs and slugs, and these pests are so
destructive that when repressive measures are not taken at
an early stage, they do an immense amount of damage,
the slugs to the young plants, and the earwigs to the
flowers.

The slugs commence their ravages immediately the
succulent shoots are produced in the propagating house or
frame in which the tubers are started into growth for the
supply of cuttings, and continue to be troublesome until the
plants are established in their summer quarters. Therefore
a careful watch should be kept immediately new growth
commences, and if there are indications of the presence of
slugs in the house, such as shoots with their points eaten out,
or slime here and there, search must be made for the
marauders until they are discovered. Unless this is done,
a considerable proportion of the young shoots will be
rendered worthless for propagating purposes. A few rather
tender cabbage or lettuce leaves laid about on the bed occu-
pied by the Dahlias may be useful as traps.

A continuous watch must be kept upon the plants
during the time they are occupying pits and frames, for in

SLUGS AND EARWIGS in

the earliest stages slugs are apt to eat out the growing point,
and then proceed to feed upon the succulent stems of the
lower leaves. A little lime scattered between the pots and
over the surface of the soil, without touching the leaves,
will be useful as a check. But when it is seen that slugs
have made their way into the frame, the best course is to
take the plants out, carefully examining the pots in doing
so. Then spread an inch or so of lime over the surface of
the bed, and replace the plants in their original positions.
An occasional dusting of the plants and the surface of the
pots with soot will act as a deterrent. The chief dependence
must be placed upon diligent search for keeping Dahlias
safe from slugs and snails, and it need hardly be said that
those caught should be at once destroyed by dropping them
into strong brine or some other mixture equally effectual.

To protect the plants when in their permanent quarters
from the ravages of slugs, the ground immediately around
them should be made fine and quite level, so that no hiding-
place for the pests will be available. These surfaces can be
dusted with lime or soot from time to time as may be con-
sidered necessary. A few lettuce leaves laid about on the
surface will be useful in diverting the attention of the slugs
from the Dahlias and rendering them less rapacious.

Earwigs confine their attention to the flowers, and as
they commence their attacks at an early stage, a very few
bites are sufficient to render a bloom worthless for ex-
hibition purposes. The old-fashioned method of catching
earwigs by means of small flowerpots loosely filled with dry
moss, and inverted on the top of the stakes, is a good one
in the case of Dahlias grown for exhibition, but it cannot
be recommended for those grown for garden decoration

ii2 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING

because of the unsightly appearance of the pots. The
damage to the florets is not, of course, of so much import-
ance in the latter case as in the former, but wherever
Dahlias are grown an effort should be made to preserve the
flowers from earwigs. Pots 3 or 5 inches in diameter are
the most suitable for traps. The pots should be loosely
filled to about two-thirds of their depth with moss, and be
examined at short intervals, when any earwigs that may
have congregated in them should be shaken into a vessel
containing water. Earwigs may also be caught with the
aid of the stems of broad beans and bamboos cut into
lengths of about 10 inches and deftly arranged among the
growths. From these traps they can be readily dislodged,
and dropped into water. Such traps are preferable where
there is an objection to the use of inverted pots, as they
can be so placed as to be out of sight. Earwigs feed at
night, and with the aid of a lamp after nightfall many may
be caught and destroyed. If they are plentiful, a nightly
search for some time previous to the exhibition will meet
with ample reward. Tufts of cotton wool fixed round the
stems immediately below the blooms, with the rough ends
projecting downwards, are also useful in preventing insect
pests reaching the bloom by ascending the flower stems.

Green and black fly are sometimes troublesome, es-
pecially in dry seasons. Overhead waterings are the best
means of checking these troublesome pests, and the spray-
ings are conducive to the health of the plants. A weak solu-
tion of one of the nicotine preparations will be found most
effective in checking these and other pests of a similar
character, but after the period of flowering has commenced,
plain water should alone be used for the purpose.

INDEX

APHIS, black and green, 112

BEDS and borders of garden varieties,

87
Blooms, staging exhibition, 107, 108,

109
Buds, thinning, 96, 98

CACTUS Dahlias —

Development of, 30

Exhibition, varieties for, 35

Flower garden, in the, 34

Garden decoration, varieties for, 36

Origin and introduction, 29

Pompon cactus, 33

„ „ for exhibition, 37
„ „ for the garden, 37
Collerette Dahlias —

Characteristics, 67

Exhibition and garden varieties, 68

Origin and introduction, 66, 67

Positions in garden, 68

Soil preparation, 68
Cultivation —

Buds, thinning, 96

Disbudding, 98

Garden varieties in beds, 87

Lifting roots, 102

Liquid manure, 97

Manure, use of, 85

Mulching, 98

Planting, 88, 92

Preparing the plants, 91

Roots, lifting and storing, 102

Cultivation —

Roots, starting into growth, 73

Shading exhibition blooms, 101

Site and soil for exhibition varieties,
83

Soil preparation, 84

Staking the plants, 94

Storing the roots, 1 02

Thinning the buds, 98
„ the growth, 96

Watering, 97
Cuttings, preparing and rooting, J6, 78

DECORATIVB Dahlias —

Characteristics, 60

Exhibition and garden varieties, 64
„ „ giant varie-

ties, 63

Giant section, 61

Manuring the soil, 63

Origin and introduction, 6l

Suitable positions, 63
Disbudding, 98

EARWIGS, in

Exhibitions and exhibiting, 104

FANCY Dahlias —
Characteristics, 21
Development of, 21
Exhibition varieties, 27
Garden varieties, 28

GARDEN varieties in beds, 87
«3 H

INDEX

HISTORY —

Berg, J. T. Van der, 15, 30

Botanical Magazine, 9, 10

Bounainte, M., 10

Bute, Marchioness of, 8

Cactus Dahlia introduced, 15

Cannell, Henry, 30

Caranilles, Abbe", 8

Collerette varieties, origin, 16

Copyn & Sons, MM., 16, 54

Cullingford, W. H., 15, 31

Dahl, Andre", 9

Dahlia Register, 20

Decorative varieties reintroduced, 16

Donckelaar, M., 19

Exhibitions, earlier, II

Fancy Dahlias, development of, 12,
21

Fraser, John, 9

Girdlestone, T. W., 44

Haage, M., 10

Hartig, M., 10

Hernandez, Francisco, 7

Holland, Lady, 10

Hortus Kewcnsis, 9

Humboldt, 10

Icones et Descriptiones P/anfarum, 9

Keynes, John, 50

Lelieur, M., n, 21

Low, E. J., 44

Mascardi, Vitalis, 7

Menonville, N. T. de, 8

Otto, M., 10

Paeony-flowered varieties, 16

Pompon section, origin, 12

Prices of new varieties, 20

Rivoire & Son, 16

Royal Horticultural Society's cata-
logue, 20

Show varieties, development, 10, n,
12, 19

Show varieties, prices of new, 20

Sims, Dr. John, 1 1

History—-
Single Dahlias, reintroduction, 15
Turner, Charles, 50
Vandes, Comte de, II
Vogel, M., 10

INSECT enemies —

Aphis, green and black, 112

Earwigs, in

Slugs, no
Introduction, I

LIFTING roots, 102
Liquid manure, 97

MANURES, use of, 85
Mulching, 98

P^ONY-FLOWERED Dahlias —
Blooms, cutting the, 54
Decorations, suitability for, 54
Exhibition and garden varieties, 59
Moderate manuring, 58
Origin and introduction, 53
Value for large gardens, 57

Planting, 88, 92

Pompon Dahlias —
Characteristics, 49
Development, 49

Exhibition and garden varieties, 52
Recognition as florists' flowers, 49
Value for flower garden, 50

Preparing the plants, 92

Propagation —
Cuttings, preparing and rooting, 75,

78

Division of roots, 72
Methods of increase, 71
Potting off young plants, 79
Propagating house, 75
Raising seedlings, 79
Roots, starting into growth, 71
When to commence, 77

INDEX

ROOTS, lifting and storing, 102
„ starting into growth, 71

SEEDLINGS, raising, 79
Shading exhibition blooms, 101
Show Dahlias —

Characteristics of, 2 1

Development of, 19

Exhibition varieties, 23

Garden varieties, 28

Prices of some new varieties, 20
Shows and showing —

Arranging blooms in wire frames, 1 06

Baskets and vases, 107

Blooms, perfectly developed, essen-
tial, 1 08

Diversity of arrangement desirable
at exhibitions, 105

Foliage, suitable, 107

Names to be legibly written, 109

Staging on boards, 108
Single Dahlias —

Cactus singles, 44

„ „ for garden, 38

Characteristics, 44

Cutting the flowers, 45

Dwarf singles, 44

„ „ varieties for the gar-
den, 47

Exhibition varieties, 46

Garden culture, 45
„ varieties, 47

Raising seedlings, 43, 46

Single Dahlias —

Reintroduction, 39

Site and soil for exhibition varieties, 84
Slugs, in
Soil preparation, 85
Staking the plants, 94
Storing the roots, 102

THINNING the buds, 96
„ the growth, 96

VARIETIES, select, for exhibition-
Cactus, 35

Collerette, 68

Decorative, 63, 64

Fancy, 27

Pseony-flowered, 59

Pompon, 52

Pompon cactus, 37

Show, 23

Singles, 46

Varieties, select, for garden decoration-
Cactus, 36

Collerette, 68

Decorative, 64, 65

Fancy, 28

Paeony-flowered, 59

Pompon, 52

Pompon cactus, 37

Show, 28

Single, 47

WATERING Dahlias, 97

Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON <&• Co.

Edinburgh &• London,
12/12

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY
BERKELEY

THIS BOOK IS DUlToN THE LAST DATE
STAMPED BELOW

if

I 121920

OCT 1 t

MAR* 7 1927

PR 8

SEP

l927

I

50m-7,'16

UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY