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(ics aoa Rah Esq Ge. Qove 


TP 81-1 


Estimation of Wave Reflection and Energy 
Dissipation Coefficients for Beaches, 
Revetments, and Breakwaters 


by 
William N. Seelig and John P. Ahrens 


/ “WHO! 
| DOCUMENT 
\. COLLECTION 


TECHNICAL PAPER NO. 81-1 
FEBRUARY 1981 


Approved for public release; 
distribution unlimited. 


U.S. ARMY, CORPS OF ENGINEERS 
COASTAL ENGINEERING 
RESEARCH CENTER 


AB Kingman Building 
SO Fort Belvoir, Va. 22060 


Reprint or republication of any of this material 
shall give appropriate credit to the U.S. Army Coastal 
Engineering Research Center. 


Limited free distribution within the United States 
of single copies of this publication has been made by 
this Center. Additional copies are available from: 


National Technical Information Service 
ATTN: Operattons Diviteton 

5285 Port Royal Road 

Springfteld, Virginia 22161 


The findings in this report are not to be construed 
as an official Department of the Army position unless so 
designated by other authorized documents. 


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8. CONTRACT OR GRANT NUMBER(s) 


ESTIMATION OF WAVE REFLECTION AND ENERGY 
DISSIPATION COEFFICIENTS FOR BEACHES, 
REVETMENTS, AND BREAKWATERS 


7. AUTHOR(s) 


William N. Seelig 
John P. Ahrens 


10. PROGRAM ELEMENT, PROJECT, TASK 
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Department of the Army 
Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERRE-CS) 
Kingman Building, Fort Belvoir, Virginia 22060 


F31538 


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- SUPPLEMENTARY NOTES 


- KEY WORDS (Continue on reverse side if necessary and identify by block number) 


Beaches Irregular waves Revetments 
Breakwaters Monochromatic waves Wave reflection 
Energy dissipation 


ABSTRACT (Continue en reverse side if neceseary and identify by block number) 


More than 4,000 laboratory measurements of wave reflection from beaches, 
revetments, and breakwaters are used to develop methods for predicting wave 
reflection and energy dissipation coefficients. Both monochromatic and 
irregular wave conditions are considered and the prediction techniques apply 
to both breaking and nonbreaking wave conditions. 


FORM 
DD . san 73 1473 EDrTion OF t Nov 65 1S OBSOLETE UNCLASSIFIED 


SECURITY CLASSIFICATION OF THIS PAGE (Wren Data Entered) 


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beat ey Le Se, aa 


Me 


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7 ve y , ’ ’ 


PREFACE 


This report is published to provide coastal engineers empirical formulas 
for predicting wave reflection coefficients for beaches, revetments, and break- 
waters. The techniques were developed using laboratory data from a number of 
sources covering a wide range of conditions for both monochromatic and irregular 
waves. The work was carried out under the coastal processes program of the U.S. 
Army Coastal Engineering Research Center (CERC). 


This report was prepared by William N. Seelig, Hydraulic Engineer, and 
John P. Ahrens, Oceanographer, both of the Coastal Processes and Structures 
Branch, under the general supervision of Dr. K.M. Sorensen. J. McTamany, 
Coastal Oceanography Branch, provided the nonlinear regression analysis used 
to determine empirical coefficients developed in this report. 


Comments on this publication are invited. 


Approved for publication in accordance with Public Law 166, 79th Congress, 
approved 31 July 1945, as supplemented by Public Law 172, 88th Congress, 
approved 7 November 1963. 


vy : 


TED E. BISHOP 
Colonel, Corps of Engineers 
Commander and Director 


CONTENTS 


CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI). .... 


SHAMIKONLS) ANID) IDIIFIONIEITIONS 6 9 6 6 0 500060 0 OOo 
i JOININODUGEUGN o 60 0 6 6 0 0 0 0 oo OOOO OO 
ILI TIC RVMIUOIRS, INNING 6866 6 6 OOo 
IEIEIE PCP UGMIINAYNL, IWAGoISGLOUIBSs 6 6 6 66 6 6 0 oO 6 60 6 oo 
IV PAGTORS) INBEUENGING WAVE REBEECTTONS 25 3 3 3 


Vv TYPES OF STRUCTURES AND RANGE OF CONDITIONS TESTED . 


VI TECHNIQUES FOR PREDICTING REFLECTION AND ENERGY 
IDS SIMEON COMMPICIONNINSs° 6 06 6 560100000000 
1. Modification of the Wave by the Structure ..... 


2. Breaking of the Toe or Seaward of the Structure .. . 
3, IWmtlmenee oF Guirtaee RowmsanesSo 6665656500060 
4. Influence of Multiple Layers of Armor... . 
5. Wave Reflection from Sand Beaches ..... . 
6. Rubble-Mound Breakwaters. . .......+. +226 -s 
7. Spectral Resolution of Wave Reflection. .... . 
8. Reflection Coefficient Prediction Equations .... . 
VIL IDONSDPZILI, IROWIDAES 5 5 o 6 6000000000000 06 
VIIL SUMMINRN 5 5,0 0 0 0 0000560000060 56 000 
I ICIV ARVO (CIID) Gg 5 6 60 0 0 oO Oo 0 
APPENDIX 
A LABORATORY WAVE REFLECTION DATA. ........ 
B METHOD OF MEASURING WAVE REFLECTION COEFFICIENTS 
C NONLINEAR WAVELENGTHS AND WAVE SPEED .. . 
TABLES 
Sources of data and range of conditions ...... 
Correction factor due to multiple layers of armor ........ 
SUMMA OE SGMAIEICMS seo preclleEAy Kao o 5 0 6 6 bo 
FIGURES 


Wave reflection and transmission from a coastal structure 


Wave gage array used to measure wave reflection ...... -» 


20 


24 


- 10 


10 


ial 


12 


13 


CONTENTS 
FIGURES-—-Continued 


Relation between wave reflection, transmission, and 
Gligoiinelenom CoOeimeEeleneiles 5 ovo. 6 6 d-00 060 o 16 0 0 6 OOo 4 


A comparison of wave reflection coefficients for a 1 on 2.5 slope 
and various equations to predict reflection coefficients .... 


3 25 @ wwMcrICMm OF SeEMCEMEe BIDA 5 565566 56565600005 6 6 


Joint effect on one layer of armor and Hy /H, on the reflection 
cochiiicient reduction=fackors. IG) sce it toee Wemsy Nene vin terete yay tet 


Observed versus predicted reflection coefficients for a revetment 
ENicnoneGtel) Aliela\. Cinvai Mee ACNE TECMES “Go Gn bra woleolG a so l0 6 6 allo 


Wave reflection coefficients from laboratory beaches. ...... 


Predicted rubble-mound breakwater wave reflection and 
transmission coehiveients.) i si ns ceeece we ee eee ee Oe 


Wave reflection coefficient as a function of wave frequency for 
an irregular wave condition with breaking waves. ........ 


Wave reflection coefficient as a function of wave frequency for 
an irregular nonbreaking wave condition. .........+4+e+6-. 


Predicted wave reflection coefficients for smooth impermeable 
SUOMaAS Walleln wo) OweceOpplinye oo 5660006 


Wave reflection coefficients for a smooth revetment and revetments 
Wath wonemandmstwomlayerSmOtrrarmOmStONe) jis icy: 1) isiesll cnt ememnrcnne 


Iz 


18 


19 


21 


22 


D3) 


23 


26 


27 


CONVERSION FACTORS, U.S. CUSTOMARY TO METRIC (SI) UNITS OF MEASUREMENT 


U.S. customary units of measurement used in this report can be converted to 
metric (SI) units as follows: 


Multiply by To obtain 
inches 2524 millimeters 
2-54 centimeters 
square inches 62452 Square centimeters 
cubic inches 16.39 cubic centimeters 
feet 30.48 centimeters 
0.3048 meters 
square feet 0.0929 Square meters 
cubic feet 0.0283 cubic meters 
yards 0.9144 meters 
Square yards 0.836 square meters 
cubic yards 0.7646 cubic meters 
miles 1.6093 kilometers 
square miles 259.0 hectares 
knots 1.852 kilometers per hour 
acres 0.4047 hectares 
foot-pounds 1.3558 newton meters 
millibars UoOLOY sz 2OTe kilograms per square centimeter 
ounces 28.35 grams 
pounds 453.6 grams 
0.4536 kilograms 
ton, long 1.0160 metric tons 
ton, short 0.9072 metric tons 
degrees (angel) 0.01745 radians 
Fahrenheit degrees 5/9 Celsius degrees or Kelvins 


To obtain Celsius (C) temperature readings from Fahrenheit (F) readings, 
use formula: C = (5/9) (F -32). 


To obtain Kelvin (K) readings, use formula: K = (5/9) (F -32) + 273.15. 


SYMBOLS AND DEFINITIONS 


incident wave amplitude at a spectral line 

reflected wave amplitude at a spectral line 

real and imaginary spectral coefficients from an FFT analysis 
representative armor diameter = (w/y) 1/3 

water depth at the toe of the structure 

acceleration due to gravity 

a representative breaking wave height at the toe of the structure 
incident wave height (use Hg for irregular waves) 

deepwater wave height 

reflected wave height 

significant wave height 

transmitted wave height 

wave dissipation coefficient 

wave reflection coefficient 

wave transmission coefficient 

wave number = 27/L 

wavelength at the toe of the structure 

deepwater wavelength from linear theory = gT?/(2n) 

offshore slope seaward of the structure 

number of layers of armor 

wave runup 

Reynolds number 

wave period (use period of peak energy density for irregular waves) 
period of peak energy density 

weight of armor material 

empirical wave reflection parameters 
specific weight of armor unit material 
wave gage spacing 

average root-mean-square surface water level 
angle of the seaward structure face 
kinematic viscosity of water 


surf similarity parameter = tan 6/VHj/Lo 


ase vata, 4 


4 it 
an ee q a ‘ae ) 


rennin 
oA “ae Ae ae we se ox 
ee ee ae sera 


ESTIMATION OF WAVE REFLECTION AND ENERGY DISSIPATION 
COEFFICIENTS FOR BEACHES, REVETMENTS, AND BREAKWATERS 


by 
Willtam N. Seeltg and John P. Ahrens 


I. INTRODUCTION 


When a wave encounters a coastal structure or beach, a part of the wave 
energy is dissipated. The remaining energy is reflected seaward except in the 
case of a permeable or overtopped structure (Fig. 1), which allows transmission 
of a part of the energy to the leeward side. Wave reflection may have undesir- 
able effects because the reflected waves are superimposed on the incident waves 
to increase the magnitude of water particle velocities and water level fluctu- 
ations seaward of the structure. These enhanced motions may be a hazard to 
navigation or may undesirably alter sediment transport patterns. This report 
presents methods for estimating wave reflection coefficients for beaches, 
revetments, and breakwaters of waves approaching the structure at a normal angle 
of incidence (wave crests are parallel to the structure axis). 


II. LITERATURE REVIEW 


Previous investigators have experimentally and analytically studied wave 
energy dissipation and reflection characteristics for a variety of structures. 
Various prediction techniques have been proposed to estimate reflection coef- 
ficients for specific types of energy dissipation. Miche (1951) proposed a 
wave reflection-coefficient prediction technique that is often quoted in lit- 
erature (e.g., Sec. 2.54 in U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering 
Research Center, 1977). He assumed that there is some critical deepwater wave 
steepness below which the reflection coefficient is a constant. For conditions 
where wave steepness is greater than the critical value, the reflection coef- 
ficient is proportional to the ratio of the wave steepness to the critical 
value of wave steepness. Predictions using Miche's approach give the right 
order of magnitude estimate of the reflection coefficient, but as Ursell, Dean, 
and Yu (1960) illustrated, predictions may be conservative by a factor of 2. 


Moraes (1970) has performed some of the most extensive laboratory tests to 
date on monochromatic wave reflection from a variety of smooth and rough slopes. 


$j ____ 
Hj Incident Waves 


ee 
Hy Transmitted Waves 


Reflected Waves Hr 


Kr = Hp / Hj Kt = Ht/Hj 1 


Figure 1. Wave reflection and transmission from a coastal structure. 


Madsen and White (1976) made a number of additional carefully controlled 
reflection measurements for smooth and rough steep-sloped structures under 
nonbreaking wave action. Based on these data, they developed an analytical- 
empirical model for predicting reflection coefficients for rough slopes with 
nonbreaking waves. 


Battjes (1974) used Moraes' data to develop an equation for predicting 
reflection coefficients for smooth slopes where the slope induces wave breaking. 
This technique is conservative for nonbreaking (surging) waves. Ahrens (1980) 
has made a number of irregular wave reflection coefficient measurements for 
overtopped and nonovertopped plane smooth slopes. 


A number of wave reflection measurements for laboratory breakwaters have 
been made. Seelig (1980) investigated rubble-mound and caisson breakwaters 
using monochromatic and irregular waves. Brunn, Gunbak, and Kjelstrup (1979) 
measured reflection coefficients for rubble-mound breakwaters and proposed an 
empirical prediction technique. Additional breakwater reflection data are 
available in Debok and Sollitt (1978) and Sollitt and Cross (1976). Madsen 
and White (1976) give a procedure for predicting reflection from rubble-mound 
breakwaters for nonbreaking waves. 


Chesnutt and Galvin (1974) and Chesnutt (1978) have made some of the most 
detailed measurements available of wave reflection from laboratory sand beaches. 
Little prototype data are available; however, Munk, et al. (1963) and Suhayda 
(1974) reported reflection measurements for beaches exposed to extremely low 
steepness swell waves. 


IIJ. EXPERIMENTAL TECHNIQUES 


The primary emphasis of this report is on the reanalysis of existing data 
from a number of published sources. However, some additional laboratory data 
were taken to supplement the sources; these data are reported in Appendix A. 


Goda and Suzuki's (1976) method was used to determine wave reflection coef- 
ficients. This method was selected because with the test setup used it gave 
consistent results which are as reliable as obtainable with other currently 
used procedures. Experience with this technique suggests that the error is on 
the order of 5 percent. A typical wave gage setup is illustrated in Figure 2, 
and a detailed discussion of the analysis method given in Appendix B. The test 
procedure uses three gages, located a minimum of 6 meters seaward of a test 


Incident Woves Reflected Woves 
SS <ag——_—_—__—_—_—_———_—_—__ 
|—_-_—- AL = 125 cm ———— 

O2:90cm 
pe a 
AL = 35cm 
Wave Gages Tank Bottom 


Figure 2. Wave gage array used to measure wave reflection. 


10 


structure, to collect simultaneous wave records (incident and reflected waves 
superimposed), each containing 4,096 data points at a sampling interval of one- 
sixteenth of a second. A fast Fourier transform (FFT) analysis is made of each 
record, and each gage pair gives an estimate of the reflection coefficient sub- 
ject to the criteria discussed in Appendix B. The mean of the three estimates 
is taken as representative at each spectral line, and an energy-weighted aver- 
age is taken to characterize reflection for the entire spectrum of irregular 
waves. The significant incident wave height, H,, for irregular waves (Goda 
and Suzuki, 1976) is defined as 


4 Nrms 


18 Tl ape 3 (1) 


where bane is the average root-mean-square (rms) water surface displacement 
of the wave records at the three gages, and K;, the reflection coefficient. 


Data collection in this study emphasized obtaining additional data on wave 
reflection on smooth slopes and examining the influence of one or more layers 
of armor on reducing the reflection coefficient. Monochromatic and irregular 
waves were tested. 


For monochromatic wave conditions (sinusoidal wave generator blade motion), 
the wave reflection measurement technique was slightly modified. The wave- 
form for monochromatic waves is described by a Fourier series with the entire 
waveform moving at the speed of the primary wave (Dr. R. Dean, University of 
Delaware, personal communication, 1980). This allows the wave energy appearing 
in harmonics of the primary wave to be considered in determining the reflec- 
tion coefficient (App. B). 


IV. FACTORS INFLUENCING WAVE REFLECTION 


The conversion of wave energy concept is useful for defining the interre- 
lation between the wave reflection, dissipation, and transmission coefficients. 
Assuming that the water depth remains constant seaward and leeward of the struc- 
ture the partition of wave energy is given by 


l= Ki + K2 + Ke (2) 


where Kr is the reflection coefficient, Ka the ratio of wave energy lost 
through dissipation to the total incident wave energy, and K, a transmission 
coefficient including transmission through a permeable structure and trans- 
mission by overtopping for a low-crested structure. In an idealized monochro- 
matic wave situation where there are no transfers of wave energy to other wave 
frequencies, 


H 
Kr SS Tal (3) 
aL 
and 
H 
a (4) 
Hy 


where Hj, H,, and H, are the incident, reflected, and transmitted wave heights, 
respectively (see Fig. 1). 


Rearranging equation (2) gives 
2 
1 - (K§ + Ke) (5) 


which clearly shows that any process that increases the sum K2 + Ke) will cause 
the reflection coefficient to decrease. Figure 3 illustrates equation (5) and 
the nonlinear relation of the variables. Note that for a given value of the 
transmission coefficient the reflection coefficient may be very sensitive to 

the amount of energy dissipation. In addition, with no transmission large 
values of energy dissipation will allow the reflection coefficient to be rela- 
tively large. For example, with 90-percent energy dissipation and no trans— 
mission, the reflection coefficient is 0.31 (see Fig. 3). 


Pct Wave Energy Dissipated 
10 20 40 60 80 90 98 98 OY 99.9 


O-Pct Energy 
issipation 


s) 
D 
| 
| 
| 


0 
ORO re 04 0.6 O:60:9 0.98 0.99 0.999 


2 
KG 


Figure 3. Relation between wave reflection, transmission, 
and dissipation coefficients. 


[2 


V. TYPES OF STRUCTURES AND RANGE OF CONDITIONS TESTED 


Table 1 summarizes the sources of wave reflection coefficients for struc-— 
tures and beaches and the range of conditions tested. Three types of structure 
are considered: smooth, impermeable slopes with no overtopping; revetments 
armored with one or more layers of riprap with no overtopping; and rubble-mound 
breakwaters armored with stone or dolos. 


The water depth at the toe of the structure, d,, is taken as a character- 
istic water depth, g is the acceleration due to gravity, and a representative 
armor unit diameter, d, is determined from 


2-3)" © 


where W is the armor weight, and y the specific weight of the armor mate- 
rial. A measure of the wave breaker height that could occur at the toe of the 
structure, Hp, is given by Goda (1975) as 


d 
gb, = O17 Lo{1-0 = exp [-4.712 = (1.0 + 15 n!-233)]h (7) 
lo) 

where Lo is the deepwater wavelength given by linear wave theory, and m the 
tangent of the slope of the seabed seaward of the structure. 


Other variables summarized in Table 1 include dimensionless ratios using 
Hj, the incident wave height (significant height for irregular waves) at the 
toe of the structure; T, the wave period (period of peak energy density for 
irregular waves); and L, the wavelength at the toe of the structure. 


Only those tests with fully turbulent hydraulic conditions are considered 
in order to minimize the influence of viscous effects (Jonsson, 1966). The 
Reynolds number, Re, proposed by Madsen and White (1976), 


R2 20 
Re“ T vu tand 8) 
where R is the wave runup and v the kinematic viscosity of water (about 
0.009 square centimeter per second at 20° Celsius), is used to establish which 
tests are fully turbulent. For smooth slopes only those tests with Re > 3 x 10" 
are analyzed; for rough slopes only tests with Re > 10* are considered (Jonsson, 
1966; Madsen and White, 1976). 


VI. TECHNIQUES FOR PREDICTING REFLECTION AND ENERGY 
DISSIPATION COEFFICIENTS 


Section IV showed the strong dependence of the magnitude of the reflection 
coefficient on the amount of wave energy dissipated (also on the amount of wave 
energy transmitted in the case of a permeable or overtopped structure). In this 
section, factors that influence the reflection coefficient are systematically 
investigated, and empirical prediction formulas are developed. Types of wave 
energy dissipation considered include losses in energy due to structure-induced 
wave breaking and wave modification, breaking at the toe of a structure or 
in the surf zone seaward of the structure, structure surface roughness, and 
internal flow in permeable sections of a structure. 


13 


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14 


1. Modification of the Wave by the Structure (Smooth Slopes). 


For a structure with a toe water depth-to-wave height ratio greater than 
five and wave steepness much less than one-seventh, the interaction of the wave 
and structure will have dominant control on the magnitude of the reflection 
coefficient. Miche (1951) proposed that the reflection coefficient for this 
situation is proportional to the ratio of a critical wave steepness to the inci- 
dent wave steepness. The critical steepness is 


(=) -(2)" sin79 (9) 
ib 9 T T 
o/erit 


where Ho is the deepwater wave height, and © the angle the structure slope 
makes with the horizontal, in radians. Miche's equation gives conservative 
results. For example, it overpredicts monochromatic wave reflection from a 1 
on 15 slope by a factor of 2 (Ursell, Dean, and Yu, 1960). 


Battjes (1974) recommends the equation, 


tan@ 
K, = 0-1 E23 — = mates 
Le (10) 
Lo 
which can be written as 
0.1 tan2@ 
Ky = Ho 
i (@aIb) 
its 


Battjes (1974) is assuming an equation similar to the formula proposed by 
Miche (1951) where the critical steepness is 


H: 


(=) = 0.1 tan?6 (12) 
o/crit 


This criterion gives lower and more realistic values of the reflection coeffi- 
cient than Miche (1951) and is especially useful for & < 2.3 where breaking is 
induced by the structure (for plunging breakers). Figure 4 shows the compari- 
son between the equations of Battjes (1974) and Miche (1951). 


The following revised equation, 


Kre=)tanh (Os) 62), (13) 


is recommended to give a conservative prediction of reflection coefficients. 
At small values of the surf similarity parameter (& < 2.3), 


Oniaae= tanh (Ones) (14) 


and equation (13) gives the same results as equation (10). At larger values of 
the surf similarity parameter, £€, equation (13) asymptotically approaches 1.0 
and gives an upper bound closer to the data than equation (10) (see Fig. 4). 


15 


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(,3 10) yuo) = 7» 


3 


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23!0= 
(p261) salyjog 


20 


£0 


v0 


GO!» 


90 


20 


80 


60 


O'l 


16 


An improved equation for predicting reflection coefficients with less error 
in the estimates is 


Ky = — = (15) 


where a and £8 are empirical coefficients determined from the laboratory 
data (e.g., Fig. 4). The value of 8 increases as the slope becomes flatter 
and is larger for irregular waves than for monochromatic waves (Fig. 5). For 
slopes with cot® < 6, the suggested prediction coefficients are a = 1.0 and 

8 = 5.5 with the equation, 


MOEN 
52 + 8 


Ky 
whichever (16) 


or : 
is smaller 


K, = a tanh (0.1 £2) 


@ Irregular Waves ( Ahrens, 1980) 


O Monochromatic Waves (Ursell, Dean, and Yu, 
1960; Moraes, 1970; This Study ) 


ce) 


O f 2 B.S BGR BO sitive 1s 14 16 16 
cot 8 


Figure 5. 8 as a function of structure slope. 


2. Breaking at the Toe or Seaward of the Structure. 


If the water depth at the toe of the structure is less than five times the 
incident wave height or if the wave steepness is large, significant additional 
wave energy loss may result from wave steepness/water depth-limited breaking. 
The dimensionless ratio describing this type loss is the ratio of the incident 
wave height to the maximum possible breaker height, (H;/Hp) » where Hp is 
given by equation (7). This ratio includes the influence of offshore slope, 
water depth at the toe of the structure, and wave steepness, and gives a meas-— 
ure of breaking at the toe. The suggested empirical coefficient to account 
for this type energy loss in predicting reflection coefficients is 


: Hi Lod 
a = exp {—- 0.5 il (aL) 


for use with equation (16), where a is a reflection coefficient reduction 
factor. 


3. Influence of Surface Roughness. 


Armor units placed on the surface of a smooth structure will increase the 
amount of energy loss in a wave encountering the structure, thereby reducing 
the amount of wave reflection. The suggested prediction equation for a revet-— 
ment with one layer or armor rock with representative diameter, d, is 


los 
H- 
a = exp ee coté - 0.5 (=) | (18) 


for use with equation (16), where L is the wavelength at the toe of the struc- 
ture. This equation was developed from the data in Table 1. 


Figure 6 illustrates the joint influence of a relative armor roughness 
parameter, Va/L coté, and a relative breaking height parameter, H;/Hp, on the 
reflection coefficient reduction factor, a. An examination of equation (18) 
and Figure 6 indicates that if all other factors remain fixed, the reflection 
coefficient will decrease as the ratio of the stone size to wavelength, d/L, 
increases, as the cot® increases (the slope becomes flatter), or as the ratio 
of the incident wave height to the breaking wave height, (H;/H,), increases. 
Figure 7 shows a comparison between predicted reflection coefficients using 
equations (18) and (16) versus observed reflection coefficients for monochro- 
matic and irregular waves on a 1 on 2.5 slope armored with one layer of stone 
with d/dg = 0.15. The correlation coefficient is 0.98 for monochromatic waves 
and 0.94 for irregular waves. 


The ratio of armor stone diameter to incident wave height, d/H;, on the 
average has little influence on the reflection coefficient for one layer of 
armor, so this parameter is not included in equation (18). Some deviation 
from equation (18) occurs where stone size is much larger than wave height and 
resulting predictions are conservative. For example, where the stone size-to- 
wave height ratio is greater than 2.0, equations (16) and (18) overpredict 
reflection coefficients by an average of 6 percent. 


1.0 —————=) 
0.9 
0.8 


0.7 


[o) 
Ww 
—_+- ——__ + ——_,___] 


0.001 0.01 0.1 1.0 


J a/c cot @ 
Figure 6. Joint effect on one layer of armor and Hy /Hy, on the 
reflection coefficient reduction factor, a. 


18 


Kr) predicted 


Irregular Waves, Correlation 
Coefficient = 0.94 


0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 
K,, observed 


0,6 
0.5 


0.4 


2 
w 


predicted 


ia) 


0.2 


0.1 Monochromatic Waves, Correlation 
Coefficient = 0.98 
0 
0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6 
Kr, observed 
Figure 7. 


Observed versus predicted reflection coefficients 
for a revetment armored with one layer of stone. 


19 


4. Influence of Multiple Layers of Armor. 


As the number of layers, n, of armor on a revetment increases, the amount 


of wave energy dissipated increases and the reflection coefficient decreases. 
In addition, as the size of the stone increases relative to the wave height, 
the roughness becomes more effective and the reflection coefficient decreases. 


Table 2 gives selected values of a correction factor, a', where 


1.3 
Hy: 
a = a' exp [eedon - o.5( 2) ] (19) 


Table 2. Correction factor due to multiple 
layers of armor.! 


d/H, 
<0.75 0.78 
O75 tt 2.0 0.69 
22,0 0.49 | 
Teo) = 2.55 d/l, 2 O15, 0,004 « desu 
<A 0803): 


for multiple layers of armor. These coefficients were obtained by taking the 
average of the ratios of the measured reflection coefficients for two, three, 
and four layers of armor to predicted coefficients for a slope with one layer 
of armor. Only one slope, cot® = 2.5, and stone size-to-water depth ratio, 
d/d, = 0.15, was tested. 


5. Wave Reflection from Sand Beaches. 


Chesnutt (1978) has the most extensive data set of wave reflection coeffi- 
cients from laboratory sand beaches. Unfortunately, there are little prototype 
data available. Chesnutt and Galvin (1974) and Chesnutt (1978) found that many 


factors influence the magnitude of the reflection coefficient. Their data 
suggest that 


2 
eo oe aS SS (20) 
2 
Eo ap B 


can be used to estimate reflection coefficients with the beach slope at the 
stillwater level intercept used to determine &€. Use a = 1.0 for conservative 


estimates of K, and a = 0.5 to give predictions of the average reflection 
coefficient measured throughout a test (Fig. 8). 


20 


0.6 


0.5 


0.4 


Kr 0.3 


0.2 


Ronge of Kr 


0 OSD 1.0 1.5 2.0 ; 2.5 3.0 3.5 


3 


Figure 8. Wave reflection coefficients from laboratory 
beaches (from Chesnutt, 1978). 


6. Rubble-Mound Breakwaters. 


An upper limit or conservative estimate of Ky for breakwaters armored 
with rock or dolos may be obtained using 


a ge 


kK, = — 
ro g2 +B 


s; a = 0.6, 8 = 6.6 (21) 


Ninety-five percent of all observed laboratory breakwater wave reflection 
coefficients fall below this prediction equation for data sets c, d, g, and h 
outlined in Table l. 


More reliable predictions of wave reflection coefficients for rubble-mound 
breakwaters may be made using the method of Madsen and White (1976) (also see 
Seelig, 1979). Equations (16) and (18) should be used with the Madsen and 
White (1976) method to estimate energy dissipation on the seaward face of the 
breakwater caused by the outer layer of armor units. Figure 9 shows sample 
laboratory measurements (Sollitt and Cross, 1976) and predicted reflection and 
transmission coefficients for a rubble-mound breakwater. Observed and predicted 
reflection coefficients have the best agreement for wave conditions in the tur- 
bulent zone, but deviate where the Reynolds number becomes less than 10+ due 
to laboratory scale effects. 


2| 


Possible Laboratory Scale Effects Turbulent Zone 


Measurements 
Predictions 


Hy/L 


Figure 9. Predicted rubble-mound breakwater wave reflection 
and transmission coefficients (laboratory data 
from Sollitt and Cross, 1976). 


7. Spectral Resolution of Wave Reflection. 


The significant wave height and period of peak energy density are used to 
characterize irregular wave conditions in this report. However, a more detailed 
analysis shows that the reflection coefficient varies as a function of wave 
frequency for irregular waves. Figure 10 illustrates the decrease in reflection 
coefficient as a function of wave frequency that is typical of waves breaking 
on a smooth impermeable 1/2 slope (&€ < 2.3). Nonbreaking waves have a different 
characteristic shape of the reflection coefficient as a function of wave fre- 
quency. K,; increases as a function of f for frequencies higher than the 
frequency of peak energy density (Fig. 11). The shift to high frequencies seems 
to occur because wave energy is transferred from low to higher frequencies due 
to nonlinear effects when the waves interact with the structure. Note that this 
energy shift may produce a range of wave frequencies in which more wave energy 
is moving away from the structure than is incident to the structure, and the 
local reflection coefficient may be larger than 1.0 over this range of fre- 
quencies. Caution should be used when trying to obtain information from the 
highest frequency part of the spectrum above approximately the 95-percent cumu- 
lative energy density level because the signal-to-noise ratio is low and the 
wave speed is poorly known (Mansard and Funke, 1979). 


8. Reflection Coefficient Prediction Equations. 


Table 3 summarizes the equations recommended for estimating reflection 
coefficients for slopes, revetments, rubble-mound breakwaters, and beaches. 


22 


Incident Wove 


Spectrem Cot 8 = 2.0 


ds/Hs = 4.2 


0.8 ds/gTp* = 0.035 
Hs /gTp* = 0.0084 
= 2.18 
0.6 ¢ 
Kr = 0.45 


Reflection Smooth Slope 


Coefficient 


2 
> 


S 
~ 


Reflection Coefficient and Dimensionless 
Spectral Energy Density 


0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0 1.2 1.4 
f (hz) 


Figure 10. Wave reflection coefficient as a function of 
wave frequency for an irregular wave condition 
with breaking waves. 


1.2 
@ 

2 $1.0 e 
2 @ 
g 5 
oS C) 
és 0.8 e 
f=) S$ e@ 
0 oO ® 
5 a E cot 0 =2.5 
ra ds/Hs = 5.9 
=i ds/QTp* = 0.0084 
Ss 212 
ie Sr0N4 Hs/gTp = 0.0014 
Oe €=4.3 
cs Kis Olay 
ra 


0.2 Smooth Slope 


0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0 1.2 
f (hz) 


Figure 11. Wave reflection coefficient as a function of wave 
frequency for an irregular nonbreaking wave condition. 


23 


“Iy pue Jy jo 
UOFIV[NITBS aTqey{eir e1ow e 30z (6/6T) 


83}T99g 10 (9/61) 23FUM pue uaspeEW asp 
‘ty JO |3eUTISe aATIBAIaSUOD B BAaATD 


SEO 


O9IBUFISA BATFIPAIVSUOD IOJ Q’T = 0 9Sp 


°SJBUTISS SATIBAIVSUOD B 10F O°T = ,»% 9S) 


*T < U IOZ Z PTqe]_ wo1rzy pajeutyjsa ,v 


T > W@ 103 O°T = ,0 


zeT Tews { (,9T°0) yuer © 


S °3Td 
10 12Aa 9+9 
q Bt 
G'S ie G°0 - 9209 a L°Tt- | dxe ,o] -yozya Se = 
evt\ Fa P| z 
9g t) uofjenbe uoz{o};pejag 


pt 


819 BAyveIq puNow-aTqqny 


sayoveg 


SJUusMIDADY 


ad43q a1njoniqjs5 


TH 
QO = wW pue ¢g < — 103 O'T = 0 
®p 
(24) uot3zenbe worz Fy 
8 juamu0) 
out 
Ds 


8ut}ItTpead 1037 suotjenbs jo Areuuns 


"€ OTqeL 


24 


VII. EXAMPLE PROBLEMS 


The following example problems illustrate the methods of predicting reflec- 
tion coefficients presented in this report. 


kok kk kk Kk KOK OK OK O&K * & EXAMPLE PROBLEM 1% * * * XK KK KKAKKKAKE 


GIVEN: A smooth impermeable revetment (nonovertopped) has a toe water depth, 


d, = 7.62 meters, a slope cot® = 2.0, and the offshore slope is m= 0.02. 


FIND: The wave reflection coefficient and fraction of wave energy dissipated 
for a wave with H; = 3.05 meters and T = 10 seconds. Illustrate the influ- 
ence of wave height and period on K, and show the effect of reducing the 
slope to cot@ = 5. 


SOLUTION: From equation (7), 


d 
Hy -8OMl7 be {1.0 - exp E 4.712 Tal opal 1.33)}} 
Oo 


= 0.17 (1.56 x 10? ) {2 - exp Le AID soa fee 2(a plo\(ORO2)) as -32)]\ = 5.85 m 


From equation (17) 


tané 
g = eRe = O2_ = 3.58 
E 3.05 
lly 156 
and from equation (15) 
= .807 (3.58) 
Ky = a WSUS = 0.56 


E2 + B Glss) 2 ses 


The energy dissipation coefficient for this example is K4 = 0.69, or 69 per- 
cent of the incident wave energy is dissipated (from Fig. 3). Other reflection 
coefficient calculations for 5-, 10-, and 20-second periods for wave heights 
between 0.3 and 4.4 meters are summarized in Figure 12. Predictions are also 
shown for a structure with cot6§ = 5. Figure 12 illustrates the influence of 
wave height, period, and structure slope on Ky 


ZS) 


dg = 7.6m 
cot @=2.0 
Cor © = 50) —-S—= 


O 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 Cs) 3.0 S)9) 4.0 4.5 


Figure 12. Predicted wave reflection coefficients for smooth 
impermeable slopes with no overtopping. 


% 
+ 
+ 
a 


kk kK kk kk kk kk kk * XEXAMPLE PROBLEM 2% * * * * RK RR RK 


GIVEN: The wave conditions in example problem 1. 


FIND: The wave reflection coefficients if one layer (n = 1) or two layers 
(n = 2) of 4,500-kilogram (5 tons) rock at 2,700 kilograms per cubic meter 
(169 pounds per cubic foot) were added as armor to the revetment with coté@ = 
2 Og 


SOLUTION: The armor material in this example has 
Wy) ne 1/3 
¢ -(#) =| oan pian 
using equation (6). For the case of T = 10 seconds and H = 3.05 meters, 
equation (18) gives 


Hi: hog 
exp j-.7 2 coté —- 0.5 (5) 


1.3 
is 1.19 3.05 is 
exp [a1 ae OW) O55 as) = 0,556 


and from equation (16) 


fo) 
if 


(°] 
i] 


26 


The energy dissipation coefficient from Figure 2 is K4 = 0.86, 86-percent dissi- 
pation or 17 percent more dissipation than occurred for the smooth slope (see 
example problem 1). Sample predicted reflection coefficients are given in 
Figure 13. The preliminary information in Table 2 suggests that further re- 
duction in the reflection coefficients could be achieved by adding a second 
layer of armor (n = 2) for wave heights less than 3 meters Giilceeel Sir 


1.0 p=TOks 
cot @=2.0 
ree dg = 7.6m 
0.8 W = 4,500 kg 
0.7 
Kr 0.6 
0.5 
0.4 
Os) 
0.2 
0.1 
O OFS 1.0 1.5 20 2.5 3.0 33,5) 4.0 4.5 
H; (m) 


Figure 13. Wave reflection coefficients for a smooth revetment 
and revetments with one and two layers of armor stone. 


VIII. SUMMARY 


Methods for predicting wave reflection and dissipation coefficients for 
beaches, nonovertopped revetments, and breakwaters are presented. Types of 
wave energy dissipation considered are wave breaking induced by the structure, 
wave breaking at the toe of the structure, turbulence produced by wave inter- 
action with the outer layer of armor, and flow through additional layers of 
armor. These techniques are combined with the method of Madsen and White 
(1976) to estimate reflection and transmission coefficients for permeable 
rubble-mound breakwaters. Factors considered when making reflection coeffi- 
cient estimates include structure slope, water depth at the toe of the struc- 
ture, offshore slope, incident wave height and period, the size and number of 
layers of armor units, and the type of structure. Techniques presented apply 
to breaking and nonbreaking (surging) waves and can be used for monochromatic 
and irregular wave conditions. 


27 


LITERATURE CITED 


AHRENS, J.P., Unpublished irregular wave reflection data, U.S. Army, Corps of 
Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va., 1980. 


AHRENS, J.P., and SEELIG, W.N., “Wave Runup on a Riprap Protected Dike," Report 
for the Detroit District, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering 
Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va., unpublished, Apr. 1980. 


BATTJES, J.A., "A Computation of Set-Up, Longshore Currents, Run-Up and Over- 
topping Due to Wind-Generated Waves," Ph.D. Dissertation, Delft University of 
Technology, The Netherlands, July 1974. 


BRUUN, P., GUNBAK, A.R., and KJELSTRUP, S., "Design of Mound Breakwaters," Report 
No. 6, The University of Trondheim, Division of Port and Ocean Engineering, 
Trondheim, Norway, Oct. 1979. 


CHESNUTT, C.B., "Analysis of Results from 10 Movable-Bed Experiments," Vol. 
VIII, MR 77-7, Laboratory Effects tn Beach Studtes, U.S. Army, Corps of 
Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va., June 1978. 


CHESNUTT, C.B., and GALVIN, C.J., "Lab Profile and Reflection Changes for 
Ho/Lo = 0.02," Proceedings of the 14th Conference on Coastal Engineering, 
American Society of Civil Engineers, 1974, pp. 958-977(also Reprint 11-74, 
U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort 
Beiyosiuray | Vales ON Sm OM Omron). 


DEAN, R.G., "Evaluation and Development of Water Wave Theories for Engineering 
Application," SR-1, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering 
Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va., Nov. 1974. 


DEBOK, D.H., and SOLLITT, C.K., "A Large Scale Model Study of Placed Stone 
Breakwaters,'' Oregon State University, Department of Ocean Engineering, 
Corvallis, Oreg., 1978. 


GODA, Y., “Irregular Wave Deformation in the Surf Zone," Coastal Engineering 
“pe Mejoow, VWOls WS, ISVS, jxpo L3H20. 


GODA, Y., and ABE, Y., "Apparent Coefficient of Partial Reflection of Finite 
Amplitude Waves," Report of the Port and Harbor Research Institute, Japan, 
Woo 75 WOo 35 Sapte, IGS. 


GODA, Y., and SUZUKI,Y., "Estimation of Incident and Reflected Waves in Random 
Wave Experiments," Proceedings of the 15th Conference on Coastal Engineering, 
American Society of Civil Engineers, 1976, pp. 828-845. 


GUNBAK, A.R., ‘Rubble Mound Breakwater,'' Report No. 1, The University of 
Trondheim, Division of Port and Ocean Engineering, Trondheim, Norway, 1979. 


HYDRAULICS RESEARCH STATION, "High Island Water Scheme - Hong Kong," Report 
EX 532, Wallingford, Berkshire, England, Oct. 1970. 


JONSSON, I.G., "Wave Boundary Layers and Friction Factors," Proceedings of the 


10th Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 
1966, pp. 127-148. 


28 


MADSEN, O.S., and WHITE, S.M., "Reflection and Transmission Characteristics of 
Porous Rubble-Mound Breakwaters," MR 76-5, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, 
Coastal Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va., Mar. 1976. 


MANSARD, E.P.D., and FUNKE, E.R., "The Measurement of Incident and Reflected 
Spectra Using a Least Squares Method," Proceedings of the 17th Internattonal 
Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engineers, 1979. 


MICHE, M., "The Reflecting Power of Maritime Works Exposed to Action of the 
Waves," Annals des Ponts et Chaussees, June 1951 (partial translation in 
Bulletin No. 2, Vol. 7, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Beach Erosion Board, 
Washington, D.C., Apr. 1953). 


MORAES, C.D., "Experiment of Wave Reflection on Impermeable Shores," Proceedings 
of the 12th Conference on Coastal Engineering, American Society of Civil Engi- 
neers, Vol. I, 1970, pp. 509-521. 


MUNK, W.H., et al., "Directional Recording of Swell from Distant Storms," 
Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Soetety of London, Series A, Vol. 
225, No. 1062, 1962, pp. 505-584. 


SEELIG, W.N., "Estimation of Wave Transmission Coefficient for Permeable Break- 
waters,'’ CETA 79-6, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal Engineering 
Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va., Oct. 1979. 


SEELIG, W.N., "Two-Dimensional Tests of Wave Transmission and Reflection 
Characteristics of Laboratory Breakwaters,'’ TR 80-1, U.S. Army, Corps of 
Engineers, Coastal Engineering Research Center. Fort Belvoir, Va., June 1980. 


SOLLITT, C.K., and CROSS, R.H. III, "Wave Reflection and Transmission at 
Permeable Breakwaters,'' TP 76-8, U.S. Army, Corps of Engineers, Coastal 
Engineering Research Center, Fort Belvoir, Va., July 1976. 


SUHAYDA, J.N., "Standing Waves on Beaches," Journal of Geophysteal Research, 
Vol. 79, No. 21, July 1974, pp. 3065-3071. 


URSELL, R., DEAN, R.G., and YU, Y.S., "Forced Small-Amplitude Water Waves: 
A Comparison of Theory and Experiment," Journal of Fluid Mechanics, Vol. 7, 
Peele Jano OO pp ESS —o2t 


U.S. ARMY, CORPS OF ENGINEERS, COASTAI, ENGINEERING RESEARCH CENTER, Shore 


Protectton Manual, 3d ed., Vols. I, II, and III, Stock No. 008-022-00113-1, 
U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 1977, 1,262 pp. 


29 


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BBA comply +, eT HE Y bar neabrigic ons sven. ih) MS. AR ety vg 4 S409. WAKA Bs 
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" } tio) AVALON A. bt A tos : i 


APPENDIX A 
LABORATORY WAVE REFLECTION DATA 


This appendix includes tables of wave reflection data (Tables A-1 to A-7) 
obtained as a part of this study. The following variables are used: 


ID - an identification code assigned to each data run 


H - the incident wave height (centimeter); the significant wave height 
for irregular waves 


T - the wave period (second), the period of peak energy density for 
irregular waves 


SURF - the surf similarity parameter = tané/VH,/gT? 


H/HB - the incident wave height divided by the maximum breaker height 
expected at the toe of the structure 


D/H - water depth divided by incident wave height 
KR - reflection coefficient 


QP -— the spectral peakedness parameter for irregular wave conditions 


3| 


Table A-l. Wave reflection from a 1/15.0 smooth slope (monochromatic waves). 


WAVE REFLECTION FROM A 1/15,0 SLOPE 
WITH 0 LAYERS OF ARBOUR 
A STONE DLAMFTER UF 0,00 CM 
WATER DEPTH 2 20S Ge 


ad) HCC) T(SEC) SURF H/HB DY Aa) KR 
8006120001 75 2,00 1°93 095 28.7 ,169 
8006120002 130 2.v0 1046 008 1605 e080 
8006120003 107% 2,00 1c27 ell 124 0082 
8006120004 029 2.90 3090 002 7504 948 
8006120005 283 20390 eecd 005 260! o2d3 
8006120096 101% 2.20 1094 097 1806 617} 
8006120007 1.57 2.50 10748 008 1S5e7 eeS 
8006120008 1.78 2.20 1056 off 12e1 082 
8000120009 1064 2.20 1055S off $109 .079 
8006120010 1.45 2e70 1087 009 14e8 238A 
8006120011 lel6 2070 2009 007 1865S 526 
8006120012 1070 2.70 1073 010 $207 185 
8006120013 06u 3.00 3012 ofa S304 2952 
8006120014 1005 3.00 2e4u 06 200e5 0405 
8006120015 1041 3,00 2010 008A 1565 0 518 
8006120016 1017 3.50 2070 007 1865 564 
8006120017 1e6u 3,50 2028 010 1301 457 


Table A-2. l\ave reflection from a 1/2.5 smooth slope (monochromatic waves). 


@AVE REFLECTIUN FROM A 1/ 2,5 SLOPE 
WITH 9 LAYERS OF ARMUR 
A STONE OLAMETER UF 0.00 CM 
WATER DEPTH & 53.0 cH 


ID AC(CM) TCSEC) SURF H/HR D/H RR 
8005221248 2087 lee> $070 olf 1A eS 2697 
8605221258 oe/7 1e25 od] B25 708 o%16 
8y0S221359S 126353 1.25 {079 046 Wes ol? 
8005221314 12009 1.25 12450 e4S Ye4 oeS7 
8005221424 9048 1.90 2044 o3} Se6 4498 
8005221533 8.33 1.50 2061 027 604 124A 
8005221342 5.9A 1250 307 020 BoF 704 
8005221351 $001 1090 4e32 010 1706 0/56 
8005221400 1052 1043 7.42 004 3409 6A 
80052e1411 1043 1.93 7065 004 3701 9843 
8005221428 7229 1,83 3.39 e2e2 703 e326. 
8005221437 120605 1293 2057 037 Wee 0212 
8005221447 18.26 eo37 2e77 049 209% 044A 
8005221457 14655 2037 3210 039 Beeb 6709 
8005221507 8078 e357 4200 72d \ 600 0799 
8005221522 4ol4 2.37 5.82 eff - 3208 529 
8005221832 3037 2,88 7084 209 {5e7 956 
8005291435 13.209 2.98 3.98 o3u Ge? 0007 
8005291448 19,88 2.58 cae) 051 2e7 0448 
8005291459 1019 3.90 46027 oN Bue ofl] 
8005291517 Sot} 3.50 80% 010 1309 68 
6005291528 oecS 3,50 6099 el6 8.5 2850 


8005291549 10061 3.90 5037 ee? S00 0531 


32 


Table A-3. 


Table A-4. 


Wave reflection from a 1/2.5 slope with one layer of armor 

(monochromatic waves). 
WAVE REPLECTIUN FROM A Ly 2,5 SLOPE 

LAYERS UF &RMOW 

a STONE DIAMETER UF 7.95 CM 


WITH 4 


WATER DEPTH & 


bo) 
8001291 513 
8001291322 
8001291332 
8001291 $44 
8y0129135) 
6001291408 
8001291207 
8003291218 
6001291227 
8001291238 
8001291248 
6001291258 
8001291544 
8001291552 
8001291001 
8001291608 
60013291459 
8001291508 
8001291519 
8001291535 
8001291416 
8001291420 
8001291435 
8001291449 


Wave reflection from a 1/2.5 slope with two 


BCC!) 
4,93 
B8el6 

11.9%4 

14046 

13.56 

16040 
5006 
5.68 
7.40 
Be 

1024 

11053 
eoed 
4.07 
9963 

14,609 
4e2eb 
6.54 

14,607 

21047 
3.34 
6091 

12.99 

22ee} 


$$.0 ¢™ 
Tcsec) SURF 
1.e% 2081 
1.29 2019 
1.¢9 108} 
1.25 1062 
129 1°68 
1.29 1054 
1.5V 3092 
1299 3014 
1290 e775 
1290 eS 
1250 2e3S 
1299 2023 
1-83 bell 
1285 Go23 
1.243 2095 
1.93 2039 
20357 573 
2e57 4e10 
20357 3209 
2.357 2056 
2,68 7.83 
2.48 5047 
2.58 32099 
2,88 3205 


(monochromatic waves). 

WAVE REFLECTION FROM A ty 2,5 SLOPE 
WITH 2 LAYERS OF -ARMUN 

A STUNE DIAMETER UF 9,95 CM 


WATER DEPTH 2 


Id 
80021213501 
8002121251 
8002121243 
8002121c3e 
80021212095 
8002121213 
8002121220 
8002121228 
8002121158 
8002121150 
8002121143 
8002121134 
6002121058 
8002121106 
8002121114 
8002121127 
8002121051 
Buv02e121044 
8002120023 
8002120014 


WCC) 
eel! 
5095 

13.023 

14944 
4650 
9.31 

12044 

1204] 
2e4S 
5012 

10.34 

19.84 
3.97 
722A 

13.67 

20006 
2090 
6015 

12028 

21.78 


53. 


T(SEC) 
1.e5 
1.25 
1029 
10ed 
1.90 
1.50 
1.50 
1.90 
1205 
12093 
1,83 
1.43 
2.57 
2.357 
2.357 
2.57 
2.88 
2.08 
2,88 
2,68 


0 cM 
SURF 
4eed 
2056 
1e7e2 
1e65 
3e42 
2e43 
2013 
2013 
5045 
4,04 
2.84 
230 
6027 
4.39 
Jean 
2064 
Bo44 
§ 280 
Goll 
3208 


33 


H/HR 
0/9 
| 
045 
056 
052 
062 
el2 
019 
0fu 
029 
eu 
037 
07 
ela 
029 
044 
el2 
023 
040 
058 
ok) 
018 
a) 
058 


HsRA 
008 
eee 
050 
054 
016 
031 
o4{ 
e044 
e007 
015 
034 
047 
010 
020 
037 
054 
08 
el6 
032 
056 


ip Aa 
10.7 
605 
4Ued 
Bod 
BoA 
Seed 
1405 
903 
Pea 
5.9 
Se2 
Uo? 
2307 
1103 
5.5 
Jed 
1204 
b6e4 
326 
209 
1Se7 
To7 
Yoel 
2e4 


74 
e4ueS 
420 
3o? 
$10 
Seo 
4_3 
4e3 
210? 
1003 
Sel 
304 
1409 
703 
3.9 
ecb 
1403 
Aeb 
4o3 
204 


AR 
025A 
oN 74 
0124 
0089 
0098 
ella 
0 348 
0298 
0208 
0240 
0216 
eei2 
0438 
0593 
0309 
0265 
0404 
0356 
0290 
0197 
0513 
0474 
0400 
e322 


layers of armor 


«RQ 
0194 
e146 
el26 
ella 
ec3A 
0196 
olo9 
olo7 
0278 
ecld 
ol73 
ecu 
0246 
0219 
0194 
0 5605 
0372 
0359 
0515 


Table A-5. Wave reflection from a 1/2.5 slope with three layers of armor 
(monochromatic waves). 


WAVE REFLECTION FROM & Ly 2,5 SLUPE 
WITH 3 LAVERS OF. ARMOUR 
A STUNE IT AME TER UF 7.95 CM 
WATER DEPTH = 53.0 CM 


Ip w(CM) T(SEC) SURF 4/HB VAs) KR 
6003281253 2075 125 3e76 010 1%ee 23h 
8003281501 7007 1ee5 2026 029 609 158 
8003281510 15606 1.25 1.61 057 $05 9148 
80032R1244 1eo2 1.59 5.A9 NS BPo7 oes 
8003281235 304A 1.90 Ue0S ell 1565 .22A 
8003281224 5046 105v Bol 018 Go? 0219 
8003281218 8.53 1.50 2060 027 6e4 192 
8003281205 10028 1.50 20 34- 34 See =o S80 
8003781158 12073 1050 2010 42 Yee 0160 
8003281135 12098 1250 2.08 043 Gel e158 
8003281052 2097 1.83 5.30 009 17.4 el7a 
8003261102 0010 1003 3e7y 018 Ao? 182 
B00seb1113 «11045 1283 2070 o3u Heb 0155 
6003281125 10079 1.03 202d 049 $02 «6 149 
8003281039 2.089 2057 7007 008 1Ace% e207 
8003281029 5.62 ees? Oe94 ale 9eol oe} 
8003281019 11078 2.37 Bed5S 032 ue 0219 
8003281009 15.84 2.37 2098 043 Bo4 oe} 
8003280922 1265 2045 11020 204 $2ol 293 
8003280931 eedu 2,48 9022 006 2107 ee94 
8003280940 5246 2.88 6016 014 Ge? 9 540 
8003280950 11267 2.88 Bol 0°30 Bod 05309 
80032809857 20059 2.68 BolT 053 2e6 66 500 
8003281353 60cb 5,90 6099 16 BeS 45} 
8v03281 $20 8,86 $.90 5.87 e022 600 9443 
8003281343 12033 3220 4.98 oS Hod 9452 


Table A-6. Wave reflection from a 1/2.5 slope with four layers of armor 
(monochromatic waves). 
WAVE REFLECTION FROM a Jy 2,5 SLOPE 
wITH 4 LAYERS OF ARMUK 


A STONE DIAMETER UF 7,95 CM 
WATER DEPTH & 23,0 ¢™ 


Ip M(CM) T(SeC) SURF H/HA D/H Ke 
8004011326 2.59 1,29 4094 209 22.2 262 
6004011334 7c? 1.25 2032 eo? 703 e168 
6004011343 11.288 1.25 1084 045 405 el14 
8004011234 ofa 1.50 8673 02 710% 22 
8004011225 1050 1.50 bell 095 3502 ef lb 
8004011217 Secu 1,50 Velo olf loed e199 
B00unL1Ene 7.027 1.50 ec78 eed 763 elo) 
8004011127 1.5] $.63 7044 Ca} $501 0180 
8004041136 3015 1,93 5.15 0N9 1608 e103 
8004011145 6057 1,05 3057 019 Bel 158 
8004011156 12018 1.93 2062 036 4o4 0139 
8004011116 05U 2037 1209] 002 630.0 304 
8c00u011107 2056 2037 740 007 CMe? »eun 
8004011058 5.32 2.57 $013 e14 1900 ,eu4 
8004011047 11,14 2,57 3,55 030 4.8 ,e62 
8004010958 1.040 2,98 12.018 ofu 3800 ecua 
8004011007 200? 2098 10601 005 2507 6275 
8004011019 4.08 2,08 6065 012 1105 349 
8004011034 100610 2098 4053 026 See = 547 
8004011258 2073 3.50 10059 097 19064 589 
8004011249 6083 3,50 6069 017 708 9446 
6004011307 9264 3.50 50648 024 5eS 0459 
8004011510 15013 3.50 4083 033 4.0 429 


34 


Table A-7. Wave reflection from a 1/2.5 slope with one layer of armor 


s(Gingegullarwavies) imac 0a Nuits. Geuee OMNe ee 


WAVE REFLECTION FROM & ly 2,5 SLOPE 
wITH 4 LAYERS OF AHMUR 
A STONE DIA“FTER UF FeQS CH 
WATER DEPTH & $60.4 C™ 
Ip wCCM) T(SEL) SURF H/HBR os" AR Qe 
IXREGULAR wAaVES 


8001220925 be76 1.25 2040 o32 Se4 0209 2c 
8001220934 Told 1037 2056 032 Gol 147 209 
8001220945 7.53 1293 2083 o3t G00 e225 204 
80012209558 7.02 279 1079 044 408 «1% oe? 
8001221007 6.0} 1248 ecebl 035 Ue 0259 203 
8001221017 7.48 teeS 2029 236 Go 0199 ee 
8001221028 Teea 1.51 2043 o3u B00 eehl2 $03 
8v01221038 80% 1.51 2053 39 Yoel c257 2e7 
8001221048 6.57 1.50 2055 037 ee 0737 303 
80012211160 10060 2.09 Go13 039 BoS 6597 105 
8001221126 11.64 for! 2e2e 0°50 Jol ef€7% 205 
8001221158 11076 1,08 2045 049 Bol e511 ec 
8001221148 4el? 5.25 7.51 017 Feb 0495 305 
6001221158 7.40 3,28 6203 027 4.9 0213 209 
8001221220 9,39 1,79 2.92 038A 99. 63707 60 
8001221231 10043 4.57 7007 037 305 ee? 103 
8001221241 7052 3,28 5.98 027 He8 733 204 


BAVE REFLECTION FRIM A YZ 2.5 SLOFE 
wIlTH 4 LAYERS OF AN*UR 
A STONE DIa“ETER UF 7,95 CM 
WATER CEFIR 3 45.0 CC" 
Ip h(C™) T(SEC) SURE Hs D/H AR ap 
IRREGULAR wAVES 


800123095A 7,69 1,e5 eeoee 033 So? 9192 2.5 
80012310908 728% 1040 2064 029 So? 0195 205 
8001231018 Bo.16 1.15 ee) 036 S05 o172 360 
8001231024 655 1.97 2072 030 504 2215 Pod 
6001231038 8.08 1.10 1094 039 Gel 142 2eb 
8001231048 9.55 1,48 2e42 035 oH chee 23 
80012351057 9,49 1,48 2e41 035 4,8 eceu 203 
8001231108 6,08 1.25 2ele 036 Sea eloo 48 
8001231117 6.53 1.25 2014 035 SoS o161 Gee 
60043231129 8.50 1.51 2025 03d §$.3 06199 3d 
6001251139 9.94 1099 2092 036 Bed cf6M 3oel 
8001231150 9.99 1.45 2029 0 3A 45 0237 307 
8001231200 9.47 1.48 2035 037 Heb 0235 300 
8001231210 10209 1.59 2050 036 Ber e2€SA Be 
8001231221 8.75 ero)! 2022 035 Sel 0193 306 
8001231236 5.00 1.31 2024 o34 Se2 01% 300 
8001231248 8,77 1.41 2.34 o3u Sel e107 207 
6001231308 13,95 1,08 2.2% 049 Boe 6397 2,9 
8001231310 120628 2.00 2098 044 So7F 05868 408 
8001231330 13218 1.56 2015S o4A Bed e2oe Sel 
8003231344 5200S 3.01 6033 017 B.0 o49R See 
8601231352 6.33 3,10 S047 025 Se4 06919 208 
8001231403 11033 1.02 2040 240 Ge0 26H Zot 
80012314146 12.8A 3,94 5.48 037 Bod 0954 108 
8001231437 13.47 1.08 2026 048 yo2 0306 205 
8001250924 11092 12591 2018 044 308 0252 303 
8003250935 12056 1.07 2e36 e4u yoo 0292 2e6 
6001250955 4.85 3.01 6043 oid 905 0493 Soe 
8001251005 Webb 3,01 6082 0IS Mod 0491 500 
8001251015 12006 1.02 202A 04S 3e6 e2bA 2co 
8001251020 7653 Be.20 583 022 be! e4Th 2e8 
8001251056 9o71 1,04 2095 033 4.6 e€6N eel 
8001251047 11019 4,41 6059 e32 Ue 06901 106 
8001251057 146007 4.20 S060 040 So2 0902 Coe 
8001251108 12.07 1.51 2017 04S 3o7% 02°49 363 
6001251201 9.75 1.82 2090 033 eo o28N 2el 
8001251211 12e7a 1007 2034 045 Bod 0290 205 


35 


Table A-7. Wave reflection from a 1/2.5 slope with one layer of armor 


(irregular waves) .--Continued 
@ave WEFLECTION FROM & 17 2,5 SLUPE 
elf 4 Layees C6 admon 
& STUNG UlartrTER ub 7,99 CH 
maTeR vtPT™ w 43,0 Cc» 
30 e(CR) Tcsetc) Sumer 4 7mA on au ue 
JYREGULOR waves 


Goorz71e89 8.05 1033 2000 02h oo! c22% 200 
Booy27t09e 8.92 toS2 = 2021 ot2 $o% of04 Sol 
8o01271703 Robb 1.55 2052 oS GeO 0232 Pod 
Boor271710 «©%7A toa! oe? o33 SoS o1%m 209 
Bo0271720 10.58 1.93 2056 o3a Sol ecf32 ou 
Bo0;27173a %eo7A YoeS 2090 o3? SoS o177 408 
Goo1271745 9.00 1.50 Polo 03S SoS of14 Son 
Bo001271755 11.02 1.38 2032 o3S7 Bob e24G Hod 
O00;27 P4507 10095 1.4) 2018 o3S7 Beo% ef4M Gov 
Bo0r271817 10092 104! eel ot? Go®% efShm Ged 
B00;27182A 11.01 1.99 aocS2 ot? Go® ef46 309 
Boor2aiioe 13,02 1.91 2,090 ACL} Bo of55 346 
BOO 261117 14012 1.95 20%0 Ory BoA oedA 20m 
000;261128 5057 3.01 6050 ela @.9 4nd Sed 
8y01281138 8.57 2.79% Go75 ofa bod 857 $05 
8001241149 10.52 1.98 done 030 $e0 ccoh ee 
B00;2A1200 12053 4.00 5.09 o3t GeS 0955 10% 
BoorAr2iy 15673 4.08 Sole 039 Bod o141 209% 
Gooy2ey22u 13076 1.5! 2004 245 $o% oF 33 508 
O00, 2412$80e 1405) 1.07 2021 e4a vo? of08 2.8 
O00126124R Lu052 1.94 3eon2 oS0 Sot of0R eee 
8001281508 i5030 Tet 1209S 239 Bod ofS? Geol 
2001281320 13.09 2005 2077 039 $o% 0535 109 
6907241533 15066 1.08 2otk 24e $eS eofot eee 
@001261 537 0259 3.01 5095 ole Bo3S o470 Go? 
Oooy2ay3s7 8990 42 20% 4o?o e2a Go? 0908 208 
8091281608 ieeeu 20c5 =e 90 03S Bo$ o20G 2e5 
G001281419 14045 3.94 519 ete Bo? 2982 20% 
60014290963 12.09 1091 Zell 032 Gee cf?) Jeo 
6001290955 15021 1.02 2025 032 @.0 9754 2e0 
8001291008 7.57 2.75 $007 019 Feed 0452 50h 
@00:291020 4.67 2.09 010 o13 1909 o44d $08 
001291080 %e2n tet Bo1d 027 $08 o20A 2ot 
O004291002 ttelt 027 = mo 38 027 oS 941 108 
G001291052 12.890 @.0e 5oeS o32 Bol e22M 108 
0003291105 12.79 to! old ot? @ol 0221 3e0 
Boor2%111% 13020 1,02 2022 242 G@oG of3$ oo 
@001291128 926 1.77 20% 026 So? of0? 2ei 


Mave MEFLECT{uUN FRaN™ A jy 2,5 SLOPE 
elm 4 LOvewS OF ahhUe 
o STUKE OLast TER Wb 7,95 CH 
earen VERT a 57.8 C* 


to mCC™) T(Sstc) SURE CYA, V2) an ae 
P92ISII1e 8.49 Lodi 2005 o33 eS ol?! 20? 
7912151129 Fein 1,91 2051 028 oo o174 Be? 
THV2IS1I40 = 90% 1.25 = 10 98 o3o SoA oiSa Sol 
7912131149 %o8n 1.20 92001 035 $o% 152 49 
7912131200 Fol2 1027? ott 032 eh 156 Sol 
7912191209 %12 1057 Poa? 030 eS o15S Sel 
MM 2I1S1219 P07 1038 2022 o32 Ho 29% 205 
79121312729 %86 1023 2008 030 $o% e200 oF 
79121351259 Pean 1.50 2010 033 e0 o0f549 506 
7912131297 « %.07 4259 2009 033 600 clom 30% 
912131297 8.84 1.41 2025 o32 $o% 158 3ou 
FIL2L31500 8 9094 1.20 10% o37 $8 150 400 
FL2IZISi0e 10.87 1.93 2032 233 So3¥ 0205 205 
7T9V2151520 10075 1.9! a3} ott Go4 2200 Coo 
THL2ISTS3A 11078 1o4! 20%0 °SA 40% of%h eS 
VOL2ISII4T Ll0eH 1o4l 2007 o3A Go 0194 dee 
7912151357 12030 Leo! 2015 038 Go? o211 ed 
P212131605 12032 1051 2016 o38 Go? o21i 3o8 
7912171051 See? 10S! =. 2007 004 Ged 01%] 308 
9; 2171141 Te7e 2091 = =Se2e 019 Fed 0450 eS 
7912171150 Toba 2.01 $220 219 Pot o4ST bee 
791217125) 5.99 2ole 003 ol2 $208 0420 4eS 
7932371303 Solu 2.76 6013 032 fre2 e423 Uo? 
POL2171310 90 9S 1075 = 2eoA2 028 GA eu? eel 
MO21713a1 90% 1077 2079 028 SoA oe€43 2ol 
VOL2I7ISSL «dele 3092 ©5057 027 Go% 312 30? 
POL217L341 «LL6)d¥ 3.02 5055 °27 oF 6351S 108 
PI2L719S1 «Godt @.00 Se2e 033 cO0 0933 108 
7912171059 12247 1.51 2019 240 @ceS ef2G GeO 
PIL2I71190 «12093 LeSt 2009 040 GeS e233 ou 
TOL217L4O§ 15037 @,74 0.593 030 @.4 928 1.7 
001091029 So7S 2.98 020 ela = 1Mel 045 Uo2 
Boor0%1042 11033 fol? 202 o32 Sel cf ea 
0001091055 11058 1o7? 2062 oS2 Gol 257 Pee 
9003091109 13039 Lo77? 2od4 o32 Sol cf37 ee 
Gooyo%120 1402A @,00 Se2e 033 @oQ 0933 203 
@00;991132 14.52 4.00 $228 o33 G00 0939 2e3 
80010911493 19005 Led! 1098 045 $o% 01469 So? 
0003091137 14048 1050 2008 o4a @ce0 0108 300 
Boe11000%1 %.02 2.78 022 O04 44a Hed 
Goo1i00%07 8.94 2.78 022 2044S 309 
Bo0,;190918 19.140 1.08 04a e223 300 
000110093: 14074 1.08 043 et@2S 209% 
Goo1100942 15018 1,08 2010 24a e220 301 
00011009Se® 10.42 @o3S 5e0® 037 oS$e@ aol 
8061101009 10.8) a,00 5oOt o37 0901 209 
Ged, to1022 52081 5.01 028 ola 045A Sel 
G@oorioro5s 5.86 3.0! @o22 ofa 095A Sel 
GOOLLoLoS@ 16054 leSt «1098 245 0208 500 


Table A-/7. 


WAVE REFLECTION FROM A 1/7 2,5 SLOPE 
wITH 7 LAYERS OF akrur 


Ip 


8001101116 
8001101127 
8001101158 
8001101150 
8001101205 
8001101215 
8001101228 
8001101242 
8001101256 
8001101512 
8001101328 
8001101344 
8001101358 
8001101413 
8001110834 
8001110845 
8001110858 
8001110910 
8001110920 
68001110930 
8001110944 
8001130952 
Boorisii002 
6001111013 
8001111020 
8001111037 
8001111049 


& STONE OJAFETER UF 7,95 CM 
wATER DEPTH = 57.8 CM 
HCC) T(StC) SURE 
IRREGULAR wAvES 
6075 $,01 5.79 
6075 3,01 5.79 
10.08 2.98 0.55 
10.07 2,48 4.53 
15051 12.98 2070 
15.20 1.98 2073 
160.04 3,94 be} 
15.57 3,94 4099 
15e3n 2.03 20eh0 
15232 2.03 2059 
15633 2203 2059 
16023 12>! 1088 
1ool3 1.5! 1048 
160079 1068 2095 
8.58 15! 2054 
8.95 1091 2053 
9016 feed 2005 
9090 1053 = 2043 
10.20 1,20 1088 
10693 1.53 2e32 
106031 1.c6 1098 
9.68 1.e4 1099 
12654 1.51 2015 
11004 1.41 2ce07 
11006 1041 2el2 
Leol3 1.91 2el7 
9655 1.e0 1094 
9.74 1.30 2008 


Booi1lii106 


H/HB 


e016 
016 
024 
oP 
036 
035 
037 
36 
04] 
044 
044 
050 
030 
049 
027 
038 
033 
30 
03a 
0 33 
0 36 
035 
038 
038 
036 
037 
036 
034 


WAVE REFLECTION FROM A ty 2,5 SLOPE 


WITH 4 


10 


Bo01111156 
8001111205 
8001111216 
8001111220 
8001111238 
8001111251 
Boorti1308 
8001111310 
8001111329 
Boo1111342 
8001111355 
8001111408 
8001111419 
8001141005 
Bv01141019 
8001141030 
8001141042 
6003141054 
8001141105 
Boo141115 


LAYERS OF ARMOUR 


& STOKE OJ AMETER UF 7.95 CM 
wATER DEPTH = o3.C ¢” 
wC(CM) T(SEC) SURF 
IRREGULAR wAVES 
9.44 1.50 Pell 
9058 1.e7 2006 
10053 1.38 2015 
10023 1.29 10A8 
11057 1650 2022 
10.30 1ee5 1094 
100612 1.350 2004 
12.89 1091 eell 
1eel4 1.290 2e15 
12007 1290 2015 
12087 105) 9 ol I 
10204 1.24 1095 
10012 1.025 1096 
13-33 1.91 206 
14.54 1.96 2005 
15.22 1,08 2e16 
8.54 Pw Ae) Ue? 
5.03 ove 5.80 
10006 1.7? 2078 
12266 3.82 5.37 
15026 3,96 4085 


8001141126 


S) I 


R/HH 


031 
032 
032 
036 
033 
035 
033 
038 
0 36 
035 
0 3A 
035 
035 
039 
042 
04} 
019 
013 
oe? 
027 
033 


N74 


Aeb 
Bee 
Se? 
Se? 
Ue3 
Ue4 
306 
307 
38 
308 
3.8 
326 
$e6 
304 
605 
605 
603 
5.4 
507 
503 
5? 
609 
Ue? 
§.9 
S02 
408 
601 
5.9 


dss 


607 
604 
bel 
602 
505 
bel 
602 
49 
Seo2 
5.2 
4.9 
603 
bee 
Ue? 
403 
u, 
704 
1102 
603 
5.0 
Yel 


KR 


e457 
0455 
e484 
0484 
ee42 
0247 
0225 
0230 
0325 
0319 
0521 
0212 
0209 
0244 
0142 
oi44 
0135 
0185 
0155 
0190 
0115 
oi42 
0206 
0185 
0182 
0206 
0145 
0140 


QP 


Wave reflection from a 1/2.5 slope with one layer of armor 


(irregular waves) .--Continued 


APPENDIX B 
METHOD OF MEASURING WAVE REFLECTION COEFFICIENTS 


The method of Goda and Suzuki (1976) is used to determine laboratory reflec- 
tion coefficients for monochromatic and irregular conditions. Also used is the 
energy balance approach for both types of waves, so that wave energy transfer 
between frequencies and variable amounts of reflection over a range of fre- 
quencies can be considered. This approach gives a reflection coefficient that 
is formally defined as the square root of the ratio of the reflected wave energy 
to incident wave energy. For an idealized case where no energy transfers occur, 
the reflection coefficient is the ratio of reflected and incident wave heights. 
Reflection coefficients are determined by placing two or more gages several 
wavelengths seaward of the structure. Each pair of gages then gives an esti- 
mate of reflection coefficients. 


In these experiments wave records were sampled simultaneously at three wave 
gages (Fig. 2) at a rate of 16 times a second to obtain 4,096 data points for 
each run. An FFT was then performed cn each wave gage record to determine real 
and imaginary spectral coefficients, A and B, at each spectral line j. Let the 
subscripts } and » indicate the landward and seaward gages in a pair. The re- 
flected and incident wave amplitudes for each gage pair for each spectral line 
are then given by 


Eroes 1 Ka> - Ay cos kA2 - B, sin kA2)? + (By + Ay sin kAL - By cos kAL)? (B-1) 


1 2lsin kA 


Natkelss 1 KA> - A, cos kA& + By sin kAg)* + (Bp - Aj sin kAg - By cos kAL) 2 (B-2) 


r 2lsin kA 


A,B = spectral coefficients 
k = wave number = =" @=3)) 
AX = gage spacing 
Only gage pairs with 
0.05 < = < 0.45 (B-4) 


are used in the analysis, and wavelength, L, is determined from linear theory 
for irregular waves, 


2 
L= RE cearaln (24), (B-5) 
27 L 


and may be found using Dean's (1974) stream-function theory for steep monochro- 
matic waves (see App. C). 


All estimates of reflection coefficients found using the above procedure 
are averaged at each spectral line to give an incident wave amplitude and re- 
flection coefficient for line j: 


38 


(az)? = average incident wave amplitude at line j 


i 
j P P ar 
(k,)2 average reflection coefficient at line j = (2) 
iL 


The reflection coefficient is then determined by taking 


(B-6) 


Irregular wave information is displayed in the form of band spectra, using 11 
lines per band and using a variation of equation (B-6) to determine the reflec- 
tion coefficient for each band. 


In the case of monochromatic waves, a nonlinear waveform is described by 
a Fourier series with each component moving at the speed of the primary wave, 
and equation (B-6) is used to determine the reflection coefficient. 


5)8) 


APPENDIX C 
NONLINEAR WAVELENGHTS AND WAVE SPEED 


In the real-time analysis of wave reflection it is necessary to know the 
wavelength or wave speed. Linear theory gives excellent predicitons for low 
steepness waves, but tends to underestimate both length and speed for large 
waves. 


Dean (1974) gives tabular values of wave speed and wavelength for finite 
height waves that can be approximated by the empirical relation, 


ee (C-1) 


where L and C are wave speed and wavelength, L, and C, are deepwater wave 
speed and wavelength determined from linear theory where 


eT? 


aa (C-2) 


Lo = 
La is the local length determined from linear or Airy theory and a and b 
are empirical coefficients. Airy wave theory predictions and values of a and 
b are plotted as a function of d,/Ly in Figure C-l1, where d is the water 
depth. 


Ss 


2.0 40 
lg 36 
16 32 
4 
LIge halle @ a (RVLe))? oe 
2 24 
°o 
4 
“= 1.0 20 a 
S 
08 16 
06 2 
0.4 8 
0.2 be 
O (0) 
0.001 0.0! 0.1 1.0 10 
d/Lo 


Figure C-1. Coefficients for approximating nonlinear wave speed 
and wavelength determined from stream-function theory. 


40 


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